M, oh rrn A 839,988 in PA- ITS. Au PITIT ST. THOMAS. 25 Ru IE )E L'UNIVEBESTE. GRAN) MAGASINS )1E NOUVEAUTICS. RIuE DI) BAG 21, 29, 31, 33, and 35. AU PETIT ST. THOMAS. THE MOST FASHIONABLE MAGASINS DE NOUVEAUTES IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. In the Faubourg St. Germain-five minutes' walk from the Tuileries. For nearly a Century patronized by the Nobility and Grentry of all Nations. Only Gold Medal and Silver Medal awarded, respectively, at Crystal Palace, 1877, and Paris Exhibition, 1878, for Costumes and Confections for Ladies and Children. A HIGH REPUTATION FOR "TASTE, STYLE, AND FINISH." "SMALL PROFITS, FIXED PRICES, AND PLAIN FIGURES." Silks, Furs, Laces, India Shawls, Costumes, Skirts, Dress Stuffs, Bridal Attire, Household Linen, and Children's Outfits. Numerous Departments, embracing every article contributing to'a lady's toilet, of guaranteed excellence and novelty. Catalogues and Dress Plates sent to America, England, &c., on application. F'rmT.TRT.' ATI AMRT.A AR.T.AF ASTITAwT1_ TT'1T)' P'RtTtR. I; j 1&.R Oversized FoldoutUnable to Scan hoA IROPFm Oversize Oversize Oversized FoldoutUn able to Scan Oversized FoldoutUn able to Scan Oversize ITINERARY OF EDNA PARRY TT AL. IN ENGLAND To June 26,1926 Sou thamptVon U94te Whi tchur~c. Newbury Oxford Newbury And over Stonehenge ~alisbury Blanford Dorchester ~eymUth Abbotsgury Dorchester tridp;t~ Exeorh New ton Rovey r Tag MoretoTn ~amstead Princetown tok owey t1~~ Later From Foweyjp arn orne en anoe en zang Yves gneta~l e anacombe(P ynmouth"' OF LwO7Tiith(T,,n OF ED&A'PARRY'3 ITINTRARY ITN GREAT BRITAIN W A 1 T Z, - - - " "I" " 114, 41b) ra e e Inovery we4NuTer Chn te Ig ViPae I- rr I T d i nb, U nesverfUfl 8 ewgast e~Isle of, Man LOt)ioo- gog t ndx'ond ewrkj n yndrumerw odForest t. U~Utue El I/en ri~w EA-v - c 1-0. *46VLTCtj 4 1 x, L6VV t i a, i4 /"l2 — 4W4 - 4f -M 44 -/ 4-l- -- ~ 4 ----I; 3) L3 0aILSI CJ~ /13 HOW& 7 -A : GRAND HOTEL,, f PARIS. 12 Boulevard des Capucines,. PARIS.......:t...... CAREFULLY REORGANIZED BY THE NEW MANAGEMENT.... rorn francs upwards. LIFTS. TABLE. D'OTE (Daily Concert). Breakfast, from 5 francs upwards. ainner, { 'clck, summer season, a Admission till 6.45 P.M. C LY RESTAURANT A TLA NARTE. The addestauioant, with bill f fPere at fixed prices, is the best in Paris. Coffe and csilliards, &c.upward - BATHS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. TR RED ED PPRICES FOR o A LO STY. rl Iy V THE IBRAY O 1871 I THlE AM~ERICANY TRA VELLER'S G UIDE. HARPER'S HAND -BOOK FOR TRVELES N URP AND THE EAST: ]BEING A GUIDE THROUGH GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, GERMANY ITALY, EGYPT, SYRIA, TURKEY, GREECE, SWITZERLAND, TYR0L, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, AND SPAIN. By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, M.S.G., AUTHOR OF "THE RISIC AND FALL OF THE PARIS OOMMUNE," HARPER'S PHRASE-BOOK," fta. WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTEEN MAPS AND PLANS OF CITIES. INST TrlRJEE 'VOL-UMlES. VOLUME I. GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, AND HOLLAN. TWENTIETH YEAR. NEW YORK:-HARPER & BROTHEFRS, PTJBLISIIBR& PAR.IS:-GALIGNANt & CO., No. 22 RUE RIVOLL.-MARTINET, GRAND HOTEL. LONDON:-W. J. ADAMS & SONS, 59 FLEET STREET.-DULAU & CO., 87 SOHO SQUAREC. Florence, GOODBAN.-Rome, PIALS..iVaWOhrC UE!VXSA.L RXiss1BcuA1U.- Vienna4, QZUOLD A Co.:-Btrli~s Asoma A o 18 81. THE Author of "Harper's Hand-books" wishes to inform all Hotel-keepers that favorable notices of their houses can not be obtained by purchase; that complaints of dishonesty or inattention, properly substantiated, will cause their houses to be stricken from the list of good establishments. ---- Favors from Travelers. ---Although the Author of "Hairper's Hand-books" has made arrangements to keep it as perfect as possible, and purposes devoting his time to that purpose, he would still be under many obligations to Travelers if they personally note any inaccuracies or omissions, and transmit them to him, at 13 Avenue de l'Imperatrice, Paris. --- ---- e" Advertisers wishing to discontinue their advertisements must inform the Publishers on or before the 1st of January in each year, that the necessary alterations may be made in time for the New Edition. -- i Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by HARPER & BnROTHsRs, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. TO JOSEPH W. MILLER, ESQ., IN WHOSE COMPANY THE AUTHOR VISITED THE RUINS OF BAALBEC; ROAMED THROUGH THE CROOKED "STREET CALLED STRAIGHT"' OF DAMASCUS; BATHED IN THE JORDAN AT ITS SOURCE; AND FEASTED AT THE SUMMIT OF THE PYRAMIDS, THIS WORK IS iD ebirateb, IN REMEMBRANCE OF PLEASANT DAYS SPENT TOGETHER IN THE EAST, BY 11IS FRIEND, W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE. I PREFACE TO THE TWENTIETH YEAR. THE success of "Harper's Hand-books" for the last nineteen years has stimulated the author and publishers to renewed exertions to make it the most correct and useful work of the kind published. The author, who resides in Europe, spent most of the year 1878 in Switzerland, Russia, Sweden, Norway, and Denmark, and 1879 in Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Spain, and 1880 in Italy and the East. All of these countries have been entirely rewritten, as well as the whole of Vol. II., containing Germany, Austria, Italy, and the East, while most important additions and corrections have been made in the descriptions of other countries, which will be found to vary materially from the edition of 1880. Tile vast amount of matter now collected has made it necessary 3 to divide the work into three volumes, the carrying of which will t be found more convenient to the tourist.. The corrections are all brought down to January, 1881, which a is several years later than the date of any European Hand-book of travel. The advantages of this are evident. New lines of railway are constantly opened, bringing desirable places of resort into easy communication with each other, which before were separated by days of uncomfortable posting. While every effort has been made to secure absolute correctness in the work, the author is fully aware of the difficulty of attaining perfection in this respect. As the London Spectator, in its review of the edition of 1871, justly observed, "The labor and incessant attention required to mark the changes of every year must be a severe strain on any man's faculties." The corrections and additions amount to several thousand every year; but the author is confident that no important errors have escaped his observation, and that the information gathered with so much labor vi PREFACE. will be found to be correct in every essential particular An excellent new map of Switzerland has been expressly engraved, with sixty-nine different routes marked thereon; also four smaller maps of Switzerland. A large map of Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, with numerous plans of cities, added last year, have been supplemented by a similar map of England, one of Scotland, and one of Ireland; also a large map of France, Germany, Italy, and Spain, with two hundred and thirty-four routes marked thereon, making in all three hundred and three routes, with time and expense given. Plans are given of all the principal cities in these countries. A new general map of Europe has been substituted for the old one. The Hand-books now contain one hundred and twenty maps, plans, and diagrams of countries, cities, routes, and objects of interest-three times as many as are given in any other Handbook of travel. W. P. F. PR EFACE TO THE TWENTIEThE YEAR'S ISSUE OF " HARPER'S HANDBOOKS FOR TRAVELERS IN EUROPE AND THE EAST." THE remarkable success of "Harper's Hand-book," first published in 1862, has fully realized the expectations of both author and publishers, the instance being very rare where a traveler has crossed the Atlantic without a copy in his possession or in that of one of his party. The reason of this great success is very evident; it is not compiled from hearsay and books which are out of date, and of no possible use to the traveler, but prepared by the author every year from his personal experience up to the moment of going to press, his time in Europe being wholly devoted to that purpose. The greater portion of these volumes is entirely new, and distinct from the last year's edition, while the residue has been revised and corrected up to the present moment. To travel without a guide-book in any part of Europe is utterly impossible; a man without one being like a ship at sea without a compass-dragged round the country by a courier, and touching only at such points as it is the courier's interest to touch. You should purchase guide-books or remain at home. The great objection to foreign guide-books is their number. To make the tour of Europe (even a short one of a few months), the traveler has formerly been compelled to purchase some twenty-five or thirty volumes if published in the English language, at a cost of sixty or seventy dollars, and suffer the inconvenience of carrying some twenty-five pounds of extra baggage, and over one hundred volumes if in the French language, one house alone in Paris publishing one hundred and twenty volumes. As the majority of American travelers do not remain over six months on the Continent, they dislike to be compelled to carry about a small library, when with the aid of Bradshaw's valuable "Continental Railway Guide" and the present volumes all their wants may be supplied. The intention of the author of " Harper's Hand-books " is to give a distinct and clear description of the best manner of visiting the principal cities and leading places of interest in France, Germany, Austria, Russia, Turkey, Italy, Egypt, Syria, Palestine, Switzerland, Tyrol, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Spain, Great Britain, and Ireland; to give the modes and cost of traveling the different routes by land and water, and which lines are to be preferred; the precautions to be taken to insure comfort and security; names and charges of the leading hotels; the most responsible houses from viii PREFACE. which to make purchases; all the items in reference to the transportation of baggage, and the innumerable number of small charges which tend to swell the account of traveling expenses. By a careful attention to the tariff in such cases, the traveler will find himself the gainer by fifty per cent. The author also intends to give the names of the principal works of art by the leading masters in all the different European galleries, with the fees expected by the custodians. In short, he intends to place before the traveler a good net-work of historical and other facts, pointing out where the reader may obtain fuller information if he desire it. Of course it is impossible for perfect accuracy to be obtained in a work of this description; for while the author is watching the completion of the beautiful mosque of Mehemet Ali in Cairo, or the exquisite restorations that are being made at the Alhambra in Granada, a new bridge may be erected at St.Petersburg, or a new hotel opened at Constantinople; but to keep the information containred herein as nearly accurate as possible, the author, in addition to having made arrangements in the different cities to keep him acquainted with any important changes that may be made, requests that all mistakes or omissions noticed by travelers may be transmitted to 13 Avenue de l'Imperatrice, Paris, for which he will be extremely thankful. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. For full Particulars of Routes, Historical Sketches, Excursions, small Cities, Towns, Places of Interest, etc., see General Index at the End of this Volume. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.................................................. Page xiii Hints to Travelers: Baggage, Hotels, Letters of Credit, Bankers, Passports, Steamship Passages, Sleeping-Cars, Diplomatic and Consular Officers, Skeleton Tours, Expenses, etc. THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM LONDON TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS, CITIES, AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA, AND AM ERICA................................................................... 29 THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN GREAT BRITAIN AND THE CONTINENTS OF ASIA, AFRICA, AND EUROPE.................................. 34 GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.................................................. 43 Ireland, 46-100.-Cork, 50; Killarney, 59; Dublin, 68; Londonderry, 89; Belfast, 92; Giant's Causeway, 98; Routes between Ireland and Great Britain 100. Scotland, 101-182.-Glasgow, 109; Perth, 133; Aberdeen, 135; Stirling, 138; Edinburgh, 152. England and Wales, 183-290. - London, 184; Alexandria Palace, Muswell Hill, 212; Windsor, 217; Greenwich, 218; London to Brighton, Portsmouth, and Isle of Wight, 218; London to Chiselhurst, Tunbridge Wells, and Hastings, 226; London to Canterbury and Dover, 228; London to Rotterdam, via Harwich, 230; London to Norwich and Yarmouth, 230; London to Scarborough, Sheffield, and York, 234; London to Edinburgh, via Leeds and Newcastle, 238; London to Rugby, Liverpool, and Manchester, 239; London to Stratford-onAvon, Birmingham, and Chester, 242; London to Bangor, Holyhead, and Dublin, 248; The English Lake District, 252; Sheffield through the Manufacturing Districts, 263; London to Exeter, Plymouth, and Land's End, 267; Bristol to Pembroke and the Welsh Counties, 273-280; London to Salisbury, Dartmouth, and Torquay, 281; London to Weymouth, Winchester, and Southampton, 285; Sydenham, 287; London to Epsom (Derby Races), 287; London to Ramsgate and Margate, 288. FRANCE............................................................................... 91 London to Calais and Paris, 294; London to Dieppe, Rouen, and Paris, 294; Routes from Paris, 294, 295; Calais, 296; Boulogne, 296; Dieppe, 300; Paris, 301-376; Versailles, 377-380; Fontainebleau, 380-382; Rouen, 387; Havre, 391; Paris to Cherbourg, 392-397; Paris to Brest, 397-407; Orleans, 402; Nantes, 405; Poitiers, 407; Cognac, 410; Bordeaux, 412; Pan, 438-440; Limoges and Bourges, 444; Vichy, 449; Lyons, 454; Dijon, 458; Burgundy Wines, 458-466; Marseilles, 471; Algeria, 473; Nice, 474; Epernay, 481; Champagne Wines, 481-489; Paris to Cologne, 496. BELGIUM..................................................... 501 Brussels, 505-511; Waterloo, 511; Malines, 512; Malines to Antwerp, 513; Antwerp, 513-515; Ghent, 518; Bruges, 520; Ostend, 521. HOLLAND OR THE NETHERLANDS............................................... 524 Rotterdam, 527; The Hague, 528-529; Amsterdam, 530-532. TABLE OF COINs........................................................................ I NDEX. I I MAPS AND PLANS OF CITIES IN VOL. I. Antwerp, 513. Ireland, N. W. Section, 84. Atlantic Steamers, Routes and Distances, xx. ---.E. " 67. Belfast, 92. - S. W. " 49. Belgium, in Cover. Killarney, Lakes of, 59. Birmingham, 245. Lake District, English, 258. Bordeaux, 412. Liverpool, 240. Bristol, 268. London, Plan of, in Cover of Vol. I. Brussels, 506. - and Northwestern Railway, 239. Cambridge, 232. --- Sketch Plan, 185. Cork, 50. Louvre, Plan of, 349. Dublin, 68. Manchester, 240. Edinburgh, 152. Marseilles, 471. England, General Map, in Cover of Vol. r. Nice, 474. N. E. Section, 236. Ostend, 521. -- N. W. " 252. Oxford, 242. _. E. " 183. Paris, Environs of, 380. _ S._. " 73 --- Plan of, in Cover of Vol. I. o C. Scotland, General Map, in Cover of Vol. I. France, in Cover. N.. Section, 15. Glasgow, 110.. E. " 11. Great Western Railway, Liverpool to Lon- S __. 15. don, 184. Versailles, 377. Holland, in Cover. Wales, 273. Ireland, General Map, in Cover of Vol. I. York, 234. -- N. E. Section, 90. Magazins da Louvre, 350 1-5. 1/ 'II INTRODUCTION. CONTAINING HINTS TO TRAVELERS WHICH SHOULD BE CAREFULLY READ BEFORE LEAVING TIHE UNITED STATES. As our nation is emphatically one of travelers, and as the number is yearly increasing, the proportion to other nations is to an extent far beyond the belief of the casual observer. For instance, the author has seen at one time sitting in the courtyard of the Grand Hotel, Paris, twenty-nine Americans, five Frenchmen, three Englishmen, and one Russian; he has seen at the Mediterranean Hotel, in Jerusalem, thirteen Americans, one Englishman, two Frenchmen, and three Spaniards; and at the " New" Hotel, at Cairo, over one half of the visitors were Americans; and what wonder, when the elements, air, fire, and water, answer to our call, to transport us from shore to shore in from eight to ten days. It behooves us to travel with other stores besides our purse and passport. "A man must carry knowledge with him if he would bring knowledge home." Every body has now an excuse to travel: if rich, to enjoy; if poor, to retrench if sick, to recover; if studious, to learn; if learned, to relax from study. All should remember that not the least important requisite for a traveler is a ready stock of good temper and forbearance. Let your motto be, " Keep cool." Goodhumor will procure more comforts than gold. If you think you are imposed upon, be firm; custom has established certain charges, and any deviation from them is soon detected, and, unless unnecessary trouble has been given, firmness and good temper will serve you better and more readily than violence. We, as a nation, have unfortunately acquired a reputation abroad of great prodigality in our expenditures, and in the East we are charged twenty per cent. more than any other nation for what we purchase; still, it is an unhappy feeling to think that we must always be on our guard. Many set out with that deeply to be regretted impression, and are rendered miserable by imagining they are the victims of imposition wherever they go, and by degrees become despicably mean, and grumble at every charge which they do not understand. Tristram Shandy's reflections on this subject are worth quoting: "Yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinder-box which was filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five 'pauls for two hard-boiled eggs, once at Radicofane, and a second time at Capua, I do not think a journey through France or Italy, provided a man can keep his temper all the way, so bad a thing as some people would make you believe. There must xiv INTRODUCTION. be ups and downs, or how the deuce should we get into valleys where nature spreads so many tables of entertainment? It is nonsense to suppose they would lend you their voitures, to be shaken to pieces for nothing; and unless you pay twelve sous for greasing your wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter for his bread? We really expect too much; and for the wine above par, for your room, supper, and bed, at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny. Who would embroil their philosophy for it? For Heaven's sake and your own, pay it-pay it, with both hands open!" Wherever you are, it is best to fall into the manners and customs of the place; it may be inconvenient, but it is less so than running counter to them. Those who have their own way (the cost is generally more than it is worth) are certain that every body is trying to defeat them; this leads them to quarrel with their dinner, dispute their bills, and proceed on their journey with the conviction that they are much injured rather than most unreasonable people. Every person preparing to travel should try to make some acquaintance with the language of the country through which he is about to pass. This is the best preparation for ajourney; it will prove equal to a doubly-filled purse. He should also become as well acquainted as possible with the history of the people, reading the best works descriptive of the country, become familiar with its currency, and think in francs, pauls, and piastres instead of dollars and cents. As regards baggage, the author would say, in opposition to most writers, who advise against it, don't cramp yourselffor want of baggage; the few dollars charged for extra luggage will be more than compensated for by having every thing that you may want; and when your wardrobe has been pulled to pieces by. custom-house officers, it will not require hours to repack it before you can close yQur trunks. Be certain to have eyery thing doWn in respect to baggage, et cetera,,and more particularly your hotel bill, before the last moment, thereby avoiding the excitement of setting out in a great hurry, with the possibility of forgetting something of importance. The author has found great advantage, where he intended leaving in the morning, in having his bill the night previous. Avoid, if possible, carrying sealed letters, or executing commissions for friends, as the chances are it will place contraband goods in your care, which, for yourself and others, should always,be avoided, You would do well also to avoid guides as much as possible, unless you are with ladies; then it would be advisable to have them. By wandering about, and trusting to your own observations, you will become much more readily acquainted with places, and your impressions will be stronger. The best and quickest method of obtaining a correct idea of a place is, on your arrival, to ascend some eminence, take your map of the city, or a valet de place if you have no map, and get all your bearings, note down the most remark. Fable places, then drive around them; after that, go into the matter in detail. By this method you will leave, the city in a week with a better knowledge of it than if.ou had remained a month escorted round by a valet de place. INTRODUCTION. Money. The safest and most convenient method of carrying money abroad to meet your expenses is in the form of circular letters of credit, which are issued in New York; and as peace of mind is very necessary to the traveler, be certain you obtain such letters from bankers whose credit stands so high that their names are honored at Paris and Damascus, at Cairo and Vienna, with the same confidence as in New York. The houses we recommend to the traveler are the Bank of Montreal, No. 49 Wall Street, and Messrs. Brown Brothers & Co., No. 59 Wall Street. These houses issue letters to bankers all over Europe, Asia, and Africa. Napoleons are the best-known currency on the Black Sea, at Constantinople, Damascus, and Jerusalem, and at nearly every place you visit. At Cairo and Alexandria sovereigns are the best. You can draw at nearly par in every place that you want to stop at. The letter of credit has many advantages over circular notes, which it is here unnecessary to state. In drawing your money, draw all that you can possibly use in the currency of the country you are in, the balance in napoleons. Nearly every traveler must provide himself with more or less specie to serve his purpose until arriving at Paris or London. Passports. The most disagreeable of all the annoyances of traveling is that of being obliged to carry passports. Those persons who have traveled much in America, and know they can go from San Francisco to Portland without any one having the right to question either their identity or movements, naturally feel galled at being obliged to tell every official where they are going. Then if, by accident, there. should be any informality in the vise, stop where you are until it is rectified! See that you have the proper vises before you start. When husband, wife, and minor children travel together, a single passport for the whole will suffice. For any other person in the party, except servants, a separate passport will be required. A new passport will be expected to be taken out by every person whenever he may leave the United States; and every passport must be renewed within one year from its date. The oath of allegiance, as prescribed by law, will be required in all cases. The government at Washington issue passports, costing $5; its representatives abroad charge a like amount in gold for the same. The possession of a passport is obligatory on the Franco-Spanish frontier. To obtain a Passport. By addressing E. C. Marshall, UJ. S. Passport Agent, Room 132, U. S. Court and P.-O. Building, N. Y., travelers can obtain their passports, properly mounted on linen xvi INTRODUCTION. bound in morocco cases, with extra leaves to receive the vises when the passpor proper is full, and have their names distinctly lettered in gold on the cover; all ol which is absolutely necessary, as the paper on which the passport is printed is liablt to be destroyed by the frequent opening.* Accompanying the commission, the following documents will be necessary: Please forward passport to the undersigned, and oblige, Yours, (Name.) Age............................................................... -- Stature..................................................... Forehead..............................................(high or low) Eyes................................................... (color) Nose..................................................(large or small) Mouth.(................................... (do.) Chin.................................................(round or long) Hair................................................. (color) Complexion...................... (florid or sallow) Face......................................... (oval or long) (These must be filled up as the subject demands.) As proofs of citizenship, the following must be inclosed, having been previously sworn to before a justice of the peace or notary public. State of..................... County of................. ss 1, --—, do swear that I was born in - on or about the - day of --, that I am a (native-born or naturalized) and loyal citizen of the United States, and am about to travel abroad. - ' Sworn to before me, this - __ Int. Rev. day of, 187-, X stanp.- Justice of the Peace FIVE CNTS or Notary Public. State of..............).. County of.................. I, -, do swear that I am acquainted with the above named --- --- and with the facts above stated by him, and that the same are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. SU 5 Sworn to before me, this Int. Rev. day of - 187-, Stamp. Stamp Justice of the Peace -IVe _EN_. -_ or Notary Iublic. INTRODUCTION. xvii The following oath of allegiance it will also be necessary to inclose, having been previously sworn to in the same manner as the above: I, --, of - -, do solemnly swear that I will support, protect, and defend the Constitution and Government of the United States against all enemies, whether domestic or foreign, and that I will bear true faith, allegiance, and loyalty to the same, any ordinance, resolution, or law of any State, Convention, or Legislature to the contrary notwithstanding; and, farther, that I do this with a full determination, pledge, and purpose, without any mental reservation or evasion whatsoever; and, farther, that I will well and faithfully perform all the duties which may be required of me by law: So help me God. H iCr s Sworn to and subscribed before me, ___ Int. Rev. this - day of -, 187-, Stamp, Justice of the Peace FIVE CENTS. or Notary Public. It is necessary to state the relationship existing between the different memibers of the same family in the application. We would now impress two things strongly on the traveler: never give your passport up when you can help it! and always be sure that it is "en regle." There is one general rule respecting passports in Europe: To leave one place for another, you must first be identified by your own consul, and obtain his vise; then you can obtain the vise of the representative of the state to which you wish to proceed; you then obtain the police vise, that you are at liberty to leave the city or country. In many places the police vise is not required; and as it depends entirely upon the political state of the country at the time, it is not necessary here to state what country or city does or does not require it. Your consul can always give you the requisite information. On arriving at New York, we presume the traveler will wish to stop at one of the best hotels in the city. The Brevoort, situated in Fifth Avenue near Washington Place, has for many years maintained its reputation for being one of the very best in the city. It is conducted on the European plan. xviii INTRODUCTION. The jHoffman HIose is alsoa first-class establishment, situated on Fifth Avenue in front of Madison Square. It is conducted on the European plan. The Rossmore Hotel is a fine establishment, situated on Broadway between Fortyfirst and Forty-second Streets. Gentlemen travelers unaccompanied by ladies will find most elegant apartments and a capital cuisine at Delionico's, corner of Fifth Avenue and Twenty-sixth Street, one of the most central and elegant positions in the city. In case travelers are sailing from or arriving at Boston, they will find the Parke, House one of the very best in the United States. The Passage. The Inman Steam-ship Company, sailing for Liverpool weekly from New York, consist of powerfully-built iron steam-ships, constructed on the Clyde, in watertight iron sections, carrying patent fire-annihilators and the most experienced surgeons. The company has been established about twenty years, and, under the management of Mr. John G. Dale, has met with most unexampled success. The ships sail promptly from New York every Thursday or Saturday, arriving at Qneenstown, Ireland, in from eight to nine days, where they remain about one hour, and then sail for Liverpool. Passengers are forwarded through to London, Paris, Hamburg, Bremen, Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Havre, at low rates. The agents in Liverpool are William Inman, No. 22 Water Street; Paris, A. H. Johnson, No. 9 Rue Scribe. The Liverpool and Great Western Steam-ship Company, or Guion's line of steamers, are ships of the very best class, fitted up in the most luxurious style, and I INTRODUCTION. xix commanded by the most experienced seamen. All travelers who have crossed in them speak in the most enthusiastic terms of their comforts. The North German Lloyds steam-ship line, running to Bremen, and stopping at Southampton and Havre, is a popular mode of communication direct to Germany. The vessels are large, comfortable, and ably commanded, and the pleasure tourist, who may be either going to Germany direct, or who desires to spend a few days on the Isle of Wight or in the south of England, will do well to take passage by this line instead of going roundabout to Liverpool. L'Herbette, Kane, & Co., No. 19 Rue Scribe, Paris, agents. One of the most successful lines which cross the Atlantic is the Hamburg American Packet Company, sailing between Hamburg and New York and vice versa weekly; also from Havre to New York, and from New York to Cherbourg, thence to Paris in eight hours and fifty minutes. These strong, safe, and powerfully built steam-ships leave New York every Thursday at noon, Hamburg every Wednesday morning, and Havre every Saturday morning. The ships are all commanded by men of the highest maritime ability, and the cuisine does justice to Hamburg, whose cooks for centuries have been proverbial. This company also dispatch steamers from Hamburg and Havre once a month during the season to Havana and New Orleans, and the different West India Islands every two weeks, via Colon and Panama to all the ports in the Pacific, and via San Francisco to Japan and China. Agents in Hamburg, August Bolton; New York, Runhardt & Co.; Paris and Havre, A, Brostrom; Cherbourg, A. Bonfils et Fils. The " National" line of steamers, sailing twice weekly from New York to Liverpool and London, and vice versa, is composed of some of the largest, most powerful, and elegant steamers that cross the Atlantic. The following instructions to their commanders is a guarantee of their safety: "The commanders, while using every diligence to secure a speedy voyage, are prohibited from running any risk whatever that might result in accident to their ships. They must ever bear in mind that the safety of the ships, and the lives and property on board, is to be the ruling principle that shall govern them in the navigation of their ships, and no supposed gain in expedition, or saving of time on the voyage, is to be purchased at the risk of accident. The company desires to establish and maintain the reputation of the steamers for safety, and expects such expedition on their voyages as is consistent with safe navigation."-Offices, 69 Broadway, New York; 23 Water Street, Liverpool; 7 Rue Scribe, Paris; and 57 Charing Cross, London. I XX INTRODUCTION. The American Steam-ship, Company of Philadelphia, popularly known. as the "American Line."-This new line, which has now weekly sailings between Liverpool and Philadelphia, will especially commend itself to Americans, being the only transatlantic line sailing under the United States flag. It commenced with four fine first-class iron steamers, built in Philadelphia of the very best American materials. They have been much admired for their strength, beautiful models, and fastsailing qualities, and in addition to an extra number of life-boats and life-belts, each steamer carries large American life-rafts, as the best appliance for saving life. These steamers have been fitted with every modern improvement; special attention has been given to the ventilation of the cabins, and the accommodation for all classes of passengers is equal in elegance and comfort to any of the European lines. The Great Western Steam-ship Line.-This is an admirable line of steamers sailing direct from New York to Bristol. The ships do not call at any Irish port, and the distance is probably the shortest across the Atlantic. The captains have first-class reputations, and the tables are admirable. The "Anchor" line of steamers is another which has met with a well-merited success. It consists of a fleet of thirty-four ships, as elegant, sea-worthy, and comfortable in every respect as the Clyde can produce. Travelers who wish to commence their excursions in Scotland and work up to London will find it to their advantageto take these ships, as they sail direct to Glasgow. This company has also established a regular Mediterranean line, sailing fortnightly from Genoa, Leghorn, and Naples, and weekly from Palermo and Messina; also from Spanish ports direct to New York. The advantage to travelers by these lines is inestimable, as they can return from their travels direct, bringing or shipping their works of art or other purchases with great safety and at low rates. The agents are Henderson Brcthers, No. 7 Bowling Green, New York; Handyside & Henderson, 51 Union Street, Glasgow; and Roubier & Broomhead, 2 Chaussde d'Antin, Paris. The Cunard and White Star are first-class lines, i i I 14 i i I I -- & I INTRODUCTIO. xxi DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS. The following is a correct list of our diplomatic and consular agents resident in Europe, with the amount of compensation attached to each office. It would always be well to leave a card on your representatives, especially in out-of-the-way places, where the duties of the office are not arduous, and where the visitors are few. You will generally find them obliging and courteous. France. Names. Offices. Where stationed. Compens'n. Ed. F. Noyes..................Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Paris...............$17,500. Robert R. Hitt................Secretary of Legation........Paris................ 2625. Henri Vignaud...............Assistant Sec'y of Legation..Paris................ 2,000. George Walker...............Consul-General................Paris................ 6,000. R. M. Hooper..................Consul........................... Benj. Gerrish, Jr.............Consul...........................Bordeaux.......... 2,500. - Brooke...................Consul.. R..........o....... La Rochelle..... B. F. Peixotto................Consul..........................Lyons.............. 2,500. George Gifford................Consul..........................Nantes.............. 1,000. John A. Bridgland..........Consul...........................Havre............... 3,000. W. H. Vesey..................Consul...........................Nice................. 1,500. Adolph Gouverneur Gill....Consul...........................Rheims............Fees. John B.Gould................Consul.......................... Marseilles.......... $2,500. England. James Russell Lowell........Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..London............$17,500. W. J. Hoppin.................Secretary of Legation.......London.............. 2625. E. S. Nadal....................Assistant Sec'y of Legation..London.............. 2,000. Adam Badeau................Consul-General................London............ 6,000. S. B. Packard.................Consul.......................Liverpool........ 6,000. Edward E. Lane............ Consul....................Tunstall......... 2,500. W. Thompson.................Consul.....................Southampton...... 1,000. C. B. Webster...............Consul..........................Sheffield.......... 2,500. Albert D. Shaw...............Consul.......................Manchester......... 3,000. Alfred V. Dockey........... Consul..........................Leeds............... 2,000. Theodore Canisius............ Consul..B.......... ristol........... 1,500. H. Fox.........................Consul..........................Plymouth...........Fees. Howard Fox...................Consul..........F........a. lmouth........ ees. Evan R. Jones................Consul. c..................... Newcastle........... $1,500. W. W. Sikes...................Consul..........................Cardiff............... 2,000. Wilson King................Consul.................... Birmingham..... 2,500. Scotland. Bret Harte.............. Consul.......................... Glasgow............. $3,000. M. M'Dougall.................Consul........................ Dundee............. 2,000. J. T. Robeson.............. Consul.........................Leith.2.......... 2,000. Ireland. Lewis Richmond.............Consul.........................Belfast............. $2,500. E. P. Brooks..................Consul..........................Cork................. 2,000. B. H. Barrows...............Consul..........................Dublin........ 2,000. Arthur Livermore........... Consul................ Londonderry.......Fees. xxii INTRODUCTION. Malta. Names.: Offes. Where stationed. Compens'n. L. T. Adams...................Consul.........................Valetta.............Fees. Gibraltar. H. J. Sprague................Consul.................... Gibraltar............ $1,500. Austria. John A. Kasson...............Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Vienna..............$12,000. J. F. Delaplaine...............Secretary of Legation.......Vienna.............. 1,800. James -. Weaver.........Consul-General................Vienna.......... 3,000. A. W. Thayer................Consul....................... Trieste.......... 2,000. Charles A. Phelps............Consul..........................Prague.............. 2,000. Russia. John: W, Foster..............Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..St. Petersburg.....$17,500. Wickham Hoffman..........Secretary of Legation.......St. Petersburg..... 2,625. W. H. Edwards...............Consul-General................St. Petersburg..... 2,000. C. Martin Steele.............Commercial Agent...........Moscow............. 2,000. Leander E. Dyer.............Consul........................Odessa............... 2,000. Edmund Brandt..............Consul.................... Archangel..........Fees. Reynold Frenckell............Consul..........................Helsingfors........Fees. Jas. Cvowley................. Commercial Agent...........Amoor River....... $1,500. A. Schwartz.................Consul..........................Riga..................Fees.. > 3a - German Empire............... Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Berlin.............. 17,500. IH. Sidney Everett............Secretary of Legation.......Berlin............ 2,625. Chapman Coleman..........Assistant Sec'y of Legation..Berlin............... 2,000. X. j,G onsul-General...........Berlin....... 4,000. Alfred E. Lee................Consul-General.,.........rankfort........... 3,000. George E. Bullock...........Consul................. Cologne....... 2,000. James T.Dui Bois............Commercial Agent..........Aix-la-Chapelle....Fees. W. F. Grinnell................Consul...B............... Bremen............. $2,500. George F. Lincoln...........Consul........................ Stettin............ 1,000. Wolfgang Schoenle..........Commercial Agent........... Geestemunde.......Fees. Samuel Spackman........... Consul........................Munch............. $1,500. G. H. Horstman..............Consul................Nuremberg....... 2,000. Max Obermayer..............Consular Agent............ Augsburg..........Fees. Joseph T. Mason.............Consul.........................Dresden........... $2,500. J. E1. Montgomery............Consul;...-..................Leipsic.......... 2,000. Nathan K. Griggs............Consul.......................Chemnitz............ 2,000. James M. Wilson..............Consul....................... Hamburg............ 2,500. William C. Fox..... onsul............. Brunswick........ Fees. Spain. Lucius Fairchild............Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Madrid..............$12,000. D)wight T. Reed............. Secretary of Legation......Madrid.............. 1 800. Henry C. Marston...........Consul..........................Malaga........... 1,500. A. N. Duffi..................Consul........... Cadiz............... 1,500. Frederick H. Seeuch........ Consul.........................Barcelona.......... 1,500. INTRODUCTION. xxii Italy. Names. Offices. Where stationed. Compens'n. George P. Marsh.............Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Rome................$12,000. G. W. Wurts.........S.........Secretary of Legation...... Rome.............. 1,800..............Consul-General................ Rome........... 3,000. J. Scbuyler Crosby..........Consul........... 1 lr..........Florence........... 1,500. John F. Hazleton............Consul.........................Genoa............. 1,500. G. H. Owen...................Consul.........................Messina............ 1,500. Edwin H. Smith.............Consul.......................Naples............ 1,500. Sampson P. Bayly............Consul........................Palermo............ 1,500. John Greenham..............Consul..........................Spezzia............. 1,500. W. T. Rice....................Consul..........................Leghorn...... 1,500. R. W. Welsh................ Consul........................Carrara...........F..ees. A. P. Tomassii.......... Consul..........................Ancona............Fees. J. Harris..................... Consul.........................Venice............... $1,000. Denmark. M. J. Cramer..................Charg d'Affaires............Copenhagen....... $5,000. H. B. Ryder...................onsul........................ Copenhagen........ 1,500. II. C. Carey................ Consul............. Elsinore............ Netherlands. James Birney..................Minister Resident.............The Hague......... $7,500. John F. Winter...............Consul.......................... Rotterdam.......... 2,000. David Eckstein...............Consul......................Amsterdam......... 1,500 Belgium. James O. Putnam........... Minister Resident............Brussels........... $7,500. John Wilson.......... Consul.................. Brussels............ 2,500, John H. Steart............. Consul..........................Antwerp............ 2500. George C. Tanner............Consul..........................Verviers............. 1,500. Portugal., Benjamin Moran............. Charge d'Affaires............Lisbon............... $5,000...iman................ Consul.........................Lisbon..... 2.000. William Stuve............Consul......................Oporto........ Thomas B. Reid..............Consul..........................Funchal........... 1,500, Sweden and Norway. John L, Stevens.............. Minister Resident.............Stockholm........ $7,500. N. A. Elfving.................Consul.........................Stockholm.......Fees. Ernest L. Oppenheim.......Consul..........................Gottenburg.........ees. A. Grau..................Consul.......Berge............... Fees. G. Gade.............. Consul..........., C.... hristiania..........Fees. Switzerland. Nicholas Fish............Charge d'Affaires.............Berne,........... $,000. F. H. Mason............Consul........... Basle............. 2,000. Lvell 'T. Adam s............. onsul................ Geneva.........., 50. Samuel H.. M- tyers.........Cousul................; Zurich..l... *......;.00. xxiv INTRODUCTION. Turkey. Names. Offices. Where stationed. Compens'n. James Longstreet........... Minister Resident............Constantinople..... $7,500. G. Harris Heap..............Consul-General...............Constantinople.... 3,000. John T. Edgar................Consul....................... Beyrout......... 2,000. B. 0. Duncan..................Consul..........................Smyrna............. 2,000. Joseph G, Willson.........Consul.......................Jerusalem.......... 1,500. Consul.................C..... prus............... 1,000. Consul............... Candia............... 1,000. Greece. J. Meredith Read........... Charge d'Affaires.............Athens........... $5,000. Anthony Martelao............Consular Agent...............Piraeus.............. 1,000. Anastatius Sargint...........Consular Agent...............Zante......F........ Egypt. C. M. Salvago.................Consular Agent...............Alexandria......... $3,000. Elbert E. Farman............ Agent and Consul-General..Cairo................ 4,000. China. James B. Angell.............Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Peking............ $12,000. Chester H. Holcombe.......Sec'y Legat. and Interpreter.Peking............. 5,000. Owen N. Denny.............Consul-General................Shanghai.......... 5,000. Japan. John A. Bingham............Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen..Yedo................$12,000. Durham W. Stevens........ Secretary of Legation.......Yedo................. 2,500. David Thompson.............Interpreter.....................Yedo................. 2,500. Thomas B. Van Buren......Consul-General................Kanagawa.......... 4,000. A. C. Jones.................Consul......................Nagasaki........... 3,000. Julius Stahel.................Consul.......................Osaka and Hiogo. 3,000 SKELETON TOURS. The time occupied and the approximate cost. Of course the cost of traveling depends on the style of living; but without wines it should not average over $6 per day, devoting sufficient time to see each place properly. FIRST TOUR. Suppose you have only three months' time and $700. You pay in going from New York to Liverpool by some steamers $260, and by cheaper lines, both ways, $150. This would leave you $550 by going on one line, and $440 by going on the other, or nearly $8 per day to spend for the balance of the time if you should go by the cheap line. The best disposition of your time would be this: Te ndays to Paris. From Paris to Vienna, Austria, by the way of Cologne, Diisseldorf, Minden, Brunswick, Hanover, Berlin, Dresden, and Prague. From Vienna to Paris by the way of Trieste, Venice, Padua, Verona, Milan, Genoa, and Marseilles, occupying thirty days, which, with the ten days in Paris, and ten or eleven crossing tilhe Atlantic, would make fifty days, leaving thirty days to visit England, Ireland, and ONTRW0UeCT11. XXV'~ Scotland; or, since the railroad has been finished from Munich to Vienna, instead of returning by the way of Trieste and Venice, take the road from Vienna to Strasbourg, via Linz, Salsburg, Munich, Augsburg, Ulm, Stuttgart, Carlsruhe, and Baden-Baden. Both trips should be made, if possible. From Munich an excursion should be made to Innspruck, the capital of the Tyrol. The railroad is now finished. An additional ten days would take you through Belgium and Holland, viz.: two days to Brussels, one to the field of Waterloo, two in Antwerp, one in Rotterdam, one at the Hague, and two at Amsterdam, connecting with the previous route near Dusseldorf. This is sufficient time. SECOND TOUR. Suppose you havefour months to spend. Take the same route as described in the first, and, starting at Milan, via Parma, Modena, and Bologna, taking two days, three days at Florence, eight at Rome, five at Naples, and three at Palermo -in all, with the time occupied on the steamer, thirty days. This route will cost about $200 extra. THIRD TOUR. If you have five months to spend, instead of returning direct to Paris by the way of Marseilles, you may spend thirty days very profitably by returning via Turin, over Mount Cenis, Geneva, Chamouni, Lake Geneva, Lausanne, Vevay, Villeneuve, Martigny, Leukerbad, the Gemmi Pass, Interlachen, Berne, Lucerne, Zurich, Schaffhausen, Lake Constance, Bregenz, Innspruck, Munich, Stuttgart, Bruchsal, back to Baden-Baden; thence to Heidelberg, Frankfort, Mayence, Wiesbaden, Ems, Coblentz, Bonn, and Cologne to Paris. This tour of five months should cost about $1200. FOURTH TOUR. Travelers who intend spending one year abroad, and wish to make the ascent of the Nile, "do"'Syria and the Holy Land, Constantinople and Greece, will require a letter of credit for about $2500. We will suppose they sail from America on the Airst day. of May, land at Liverpool on the tenth, remain in Great Britain up to the first of July-this is the best) season in that country, and is the only one you can spend there without interfering with a more important portion of your trip, as there is only on season to ascend the Nile, and we do not wish to retrace any portion of the route-two weeks in Paris, six weeks in Switzerland, Bavaria, Wurtembarg, the T'rol: the cities onthe VOL. I.-B xxvi INTRODUCTION. Rhine, and the German watering-places; that brings us to the first of September. Then Belgium, Holland, Prussia, Saxony, Bohemia, and Austria to Vienna. From Vienna to Trieste, cross the Adriatic to Venice, through Italy to Naples, occupying two and a half months. On the middle of November we leave Naples for Palermo, Messina, and Alexandria, arriving at Cairo about the first of December. After spending two weeks enjoying the mild and balmy atmosphere of the resting-place of the Pharaohs, we proceed up the Nile to the Second Cataract, which excursion generally occupies two months if in small boats. Steamers now make the ascent of the Nile. On returning to Cairo the first of March, having made a trip to Suez, to visit the spot whence the Children of Israel crossed the Red Sea, we pass through the Suez Canal, take steamer for Jaffa, spending the month of March and first week in April visiting Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, Jericho, and the Jordan; traveling through the centre of Syria, via the Lake of Galilee, to Damascus; from Damascus to the ruins of Baalbec, thence to Beyrout, where we again take steamer for Constantinople, passing Tripoli, Latakia, Alexandretta, Rhodes, Smyrna, and the Dardanelles, or by another route-more direct-stopping at Cyprus, Rhodes, and Smyrna; from Constantinople to Marseilles via Athens, arriving in Paris about the first of May. FIFTH TOUR. Should you not wish to return to Paris or London after your long absence, you may take steamer at Marseilles for Barcelona, then to Madrid by rail, making the same trip described in our tour through Spain. This trip will occupy nearly two months. This tour should not cost you over $350 extra. These estimates atre based on first-class rates and a liberal expenditure. Experience has shown, when traveling abroad, that while on railway cars and steamers first class, the expenses are about $10 per day; second class, $7-that is, traveling about twelve hours per day; if day and night, nearly double. This rule will apply as well when crossing the Atlantic on some lines. If you remain a long time in a cheap country, you may make your expenses average $3 50 or $4 per day; for instance: A tour of one year, spending three weeks on the Nile, two months in the Holy Land, may be made for $2120; viz.: Passage to London.................................................. $100 " to Alexandria and Cairo................................ 130 Return......................................................... 240 Three weeks on the Nile........................................... 200 Two months in Palestine, at $8 per day....................... 480 Seven months in cheap countries, at $4.60 per day......... 970 $2120 This, it will be recollected, is first class. There is no second class on the Nile or in Syria-that is, nominal second class; but you have many classes of boats on the Nile, and many classes of horses in the Holy Land. Don't bargain for low rates, or you will be served accordingly. The same can be done for about $300 less, second class. For $400 a fine excursion (going second class) can be made to London and t!fe INTRODUCTION. XXvii Continent, occupying two and a half months, viz.: via London, Cologne, Basle, Lucerne, St. Gothard Pass, Lake Maggiore, Milan, Venice, 'rieste, Vienna, Prague, Dresden, Berlin, Brussels, Paris, to Southampton. An additional hundred dollars would pay for a fine excursion through Great Britain, taking the steamer at Queenstown. By reversing this route, going first to Vienna via Berlin, and returning via Venice and Milan to Genoa, fifty additional dollars will pay your expenses to Naples via Florence and Rome, returning by Marseilles to Paris. In addition to the above tours, we wish to call attention to the fact that the same may be made at a great reduction in price by availing one's self of special arrangements made by Caygill's Tourist Agency, 371 Strand, London, with the different railroad and steamboat companies of Great Britain and on the Continent. You can travel alone with your own family or party, or join a party of strangers all at the same price. This firm takes or sends all its people first class, and stops at first-class hotels, and certainly for one third less the cost to a traveler than traveling on his own account. The coupons for the different countries are printed in English, with the French, German, and Italian on the opposite page, obviating the necessity of the 'courier in translating, many of the employes in all the hotels speaking English. It is absolutely necessary, when traveling in Europe by railway, to be at the station full fifteen minutes before the starting-time, in order to get your ticket, as well as to attend to your baggage, see it checked, or placed on the cars. The quantity of luggage you can take inside the car depends on whether you are first class or not, first-class passengers always having more privileges. Always refer to your guide-book before you arrive at a city, and make up your mind at what hotel you intend to stop, and, when pestered by employes or commissionaires, name the hotel as if an old visitor. In describing routes, it is almost impossible to tell a traveler which he or she ought to take, as it depends entirely on one's tastes or the time one has to spare. One might prefer to stop at Birmingham to examine the manufacture of guns, while another would prefer visiting Coventry to see some thirty thousand persons employed in the weaving and dyeing of ribbons; another, with a taste for the fine arts and the beautiful in nature, would prefer visiting Chatsworth, the lovely palace and grounds of the Duke of Devonshire; while still another would prefer, above all, to visit the classic grounds of the Bard of Avon, to sit in the high-backed chair, in the chimney-corner where he courted the lovely daughter of old Dame Hathaway, or stand on that simple stone under which lie his mortal remains in the parish church of Stratford-upon-Avon; some may have time and taste for all, some for only one; we will consequently describe the most prominent routes in a direct line, or nearly so, asking the traveler to examine his map on arriving at each stoppingplace, find in the index the names of places of importance in the vicinity, read them carefully, then diverge or continue as his tastes or time may dictate. In Great Britain most of the routes are commenced from London, as you may enter the British Isles at Queenstown, Glasgow, Liverpool, Southampton, New Haven, Dover, Folkstone, or Harwich; at whichever point you enter you have only to reverse the route to London, then commence from that capital. I,I I. I 1 4 1.1 I, - I TiHE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM LONDON TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS, CITIES, AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA, AND AMERICA. London to Alexandria, Egypt; average time, six days. The cheapest and shortest sea route is via Paris, Mont Cenis Tunnel, Bologna, and Brindisi; from Brindisi by the steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Company. Fare, $90; average sea passage, 73 hours. Or via Harwich, Rotterdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the Brenner Pass; fare to Brindisi, $59 28. There Is a line of steamers (the Messageries Maritimes) running direct from Marseilles weekly. The sea voyage, however, is much longer. The Brindisi route is preferable. Brindisi may be reached via Ostend, Brussels, Cologne, Munich, and Bologna, at an additional cost of $8 and one more day's travel. London to Amsterdam, via Harwich (Great Eastern Railway) and steamer to Rotterdam (daily); time, 18 hours; fare, London to Antwerp, by the Antwerp Navigation Company. Fare, $6. Also by rail via Harwich (this route is highly recommended), via Ostend, in 10 h. 15 m.; fare, $11 50. London to Athens, Greece; time, via Trieste, 5 days 8 h., via the Austrian Lloyd's steamers, which generally leave Trieste every Saturday at 2 P.M., change steamers at Syra, and arrive at Athens Tuesday morning. This is considered the best route. London to Barcelona (daily), via Paris, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Parmpeluna, and Saragossa; time, 72 hours; fare, $50. Or via Paris, Marseilles, and by steamer to Barcelona. London to Basle, via Harwich, Rotterdam or Antwerp, Luxembourg, and Metz; time, 33 hours; fare, $20 15. London to Belfast, via Fleetwood (daily); time of sea passage, 11 hours; fare, $11. Also via Harwich, 33 hours; fare, $25. London to Berlin (daily), via Calais, Blandain, Brussels, Cologne, Hanover, and Brunswick; time, 36 hours; fare, $34. Or via Harwich, Rotterdam, and Oberhausen; time, 35 hours; fare, $21. London to Bombay (every two weeks), via the Suez Canal; fare about $260. London to Bordeaux, via Paris; time, 26 hours; fare, $27. If by Newhaven and Dieppe, about $22. London to Boulogne (daily), by steamer in 8 hours; fare, $2 75; and via the Southeastern Railway in 4 hours; fare, $7 50. London to Brunswick, Germany, via Harwich (daily); time, 29 hours; fare, $17 50. London to Brussels (twice a day), via Ostend; time, 11 hours; fare, $12. Or via Harwich and Antwerp; time, 17 hours; fare, $6 25. London to Calais (daily); time, 5 h. 30 m.; fare, $7 50. London to Calcutta, via the Suez Canal (monthly); fare, $275. London to the Cape of Good Hope (every two weeks); fare, $157. London to Chamounix, Sardinia (daily), via Paris, Macon, and Geneva; time, 47 h. 30 m.; fare, $31 50. London to Christiania, via Cologne, Minden, Hamburg, and Kiel; time, 4 days; fare, $41 50. Or steamer from London to Hamburg, thence to Altona and Kiel; time, 4 days; fare, $23 50. Or by steamer direct from London, in 56 hours; fare, $20. London to Cologne (daily), via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Liege, and Verviers; time, 19 hours; fare, $18. Also via Harwich, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Emerich, and Oberhausen; time, 20 hours; fare, $14 25. And via Rotterdam; fare, $13 25. London to lake Como (daily), via Paris, Strasbourg, Basle, Lucerne, by lake to Fluelen, by diligence to Belinzona, via the St. Gothard Pass, Lugano, and Comoe time, 56 hours; fare, $37 50. 29 THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM LONDON London to Constance, Switzerland (dai- Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Bologna; ly), via Calais, Brussels, Cologne; time, 58 fare, $56 50; time, 48 hours. Also via hours; fare, $34. Also via Harwich, Co- Marseilles, Genoa, and Spezzia; time, 42 logne, in 34 hours; fare, $27. Also via hours; fare, $44 44. Also via Harwich, Frankfort, Stuttgart, Ulm, and Friedrichs- Rotterdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, hafen; time, 49 hours; fare, $35 50. and the Brenner Pass; fare, $49 39. London to Constantinople, via Paris, Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, and An- London to Frankfort-on-the-ffain (daily), cona (from Ancona the Austrian Lloyd's via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Liege, steamers sail weekly, touching at Ath- Verviers, and Cologne; time, 24 hours; ens and Smyrna); time, 10 days. Or fare, $21 50. Or via Paris and Cologne; via Paris, Marseilles, and the Message- time, 27 hours; fare, $30. Or vic Harries Maritimes' steamers; time, 8 days; wich, Rotterdam, Cologne, and Coblentz; fare, $114. Or via Cologne, Linz, Vien- time, 27 hours; fare, $16 25-that is, by na, Basiasch, by the Danube to Rustchuk, express from Cologne. If by steamer from Varna, and Constantinople; time, 10 days; Cologne to Mayence, the time will be six fare, $110. hours longer. London to Copenhagen (daily), via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Cologne, Minden, London to Freiburg, Germany (daily), via Hanover, Lunebourg, Hamburg, Kiel, Calais and Dover, Brussels, Cologne, and thence to Korsor by steamer, and Copen- Mayence; time, 31 h. 30 m.; fare, $26. Or hagen byrail; time, 46 hours; fare, $38 50. via Paris and Strasbourg; time, 22 hours; Or via Hamburg by steamer direct, Al- fare, $29 25. Or via Harwich, Rotterdam tona, Kiel, and Korsdr; time, 4 days; or Antwerp, and Cologne; fare, $23 07. fare, $16. London to Geneva (daily), via Calais and London to Damascus, via Paris, Mar- Dover, Paris and Macon; time, 27 hours seilles, and Beyrout, steamers weekly from (express); fare, $27 50. Or via Dieppe Marseilles; time, 13 days; fare, $163. and Newhaven; time, 32 hours (actual Or via Paris, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, traveling); fare, $20. Ancona, and by the Austrian Lloyd's London to Genoa, via Calais and Dover, steamers to Beyrout, and diligence to Da- Paris, Marseilles, and Nice (daily); time, mascus; time, 15 days; fare about the 30 hours; fare, $29 50. Or via Dieppe same as the other route. and Newhaven; time, 36 hours; fare, London to Dantzic, via Cologne and Ber- 22. lin (daily); time, 52 hours; fare, $44 50. London to Gibraltar (weekly), by steamLondon to Dieppe (daily), via Newha- ers from Liverpool; fare, $47. ven; time, 10 hours; fare, $4 50. London to Glasgow, several times each London to Dover, several times daily; day; time, 12 hours. time (express), 1 h. 45 m. London to Gottenburg, Sweden (weekly); London to Dresden (daily), via Calais, fare, $15 75. Brussels, Cologne; time, 42 hours; fare, London to the Hague (daily), via Harwich $35 25. Daily, via Harwich, in 40 hours; and Rotterdam; time, 14 hours; fare, $7. fare, $25. Or via Rotterdam by steamer, London to Hamburg (daily), via Harwich rail to Oberhausen, in 40 hours; fare, $28. and Rotterdam; time, 28 hours; fare, $19. London to Dublin, twice a week by Via Ostend, Cologne, and Hanover (daily); steamer, in 74 hours; fare, $5. Also by time, 31 hours; fare, $30. Or by steamer rail (daily). direct; time, 40 hours; fare, $10. London to Dusseldorf, by steamer, stop- London to Hanover (daily), via Harwich ping at Rotterdam, then up the Rhine; and Rotterdam; time, 28 hours; fare, $18. time, 30 hours; fare, $7 50. Or via Har- Or via Ostend, Brussels, and Cologne; wich and Rotterdam, in 22 hours; fare, time, 27 hours; fare, $25 50. $12 26. Or via Calais and Aix-la-Cha- London to Havre (daily), via Southamppelle;.time, 22 hours; fare, $19. ton; time, 10 h. 30 m.; fare, $6 75. London to Edinburgh, twice- each day; London to Heidelberg, via Calais and Dotime, 12 hours. ver, Paris and Strasbourg (daily); time, London to Florence (daily), via Paris, 28 hours; fare, $30. Or via Calais/ BrasB0 TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS, CITIES, PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC. I sels, Cologne, and Mayence; time, 26 h. 35 m.; fare, $22 75. Daily, via Harwich; time, 28 hours; fare, $18 50. London to Homburg, via Harwich, Rotterdam, Cologne, and Frankfort (daily); time, 27 hours; fare, $16 25. Or via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, and tFrankfort; time, 25 hours; fare, $22. London to Hong Kong, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Marseilles, Suez Canal, Point de Galle, and Singapore (weekly); time, 38 days; fare, $492 50. London to Innspruck (daily), via Calais and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Munich, Rosenheim, and Kufstein; time, 40 hours; fare, $41 25. London to Interlachen, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, Berne, and Thun (daily); time, 32 hours; fare, $30 25. London to Jerusalem, via Paris, Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis Tunnel, Turin, Bologna, Ancona, and steamer (Austrian Lloyd's) to Jaffa, by diligence from Jaffa to Jerusalem; time, 14 days. Or via Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, Messina, Alexandretta, and Beyrout by the Messageries Maritimes' steamers from Marseilles (the cost by this route is somewhat higher); time, 9 days. London to Kiel (daily), via Harwich, Rotterdam, and Hamburg; time, 34 hours; fare, $17 50. London to Kissingen, Bavaria (daily), via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Cologne, Frankfort, and Gemunden; time, 26 hours; fare, $32. London to Lausanne (daily), via Calais and Dover, Paris, Dijon, Dole, and Pontarlier; time, 30 hours. By leaving London at 7.40 A.M., and taking the express train from Paris at 8 P.M., the traveler will arrive at Lausanne at 1.40 P.M. next day; fare, $28 50. If by Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris and Dijon, time 42 hours; fare, $21. Iondon to Leipzig, via Harwich and Rotterdam; time, 34 hours; fare, $22. London to Leghorn, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, Nice, Genoa, and Spezzia; time, if steamer is taken from Genoa to Leghorn (9 hours), 39 hours; fare, $34. If via Dieppe and Newhaven, time, 45 hours; fare, $24 50. Or via Calais and Dover, Paris, Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis Tunnel, Turin, and Genoa; time, 47 hours; fare, $42. Many travelers take a diligence or carriage to Spezzia, from which point the railroad is finished to Leghorn. and Florence. The road will soon be finished the entire distance. London to Lisbon, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Ciduad- Real, and Badajoz (daily); time, 3 days, 8 h.; fare, $69 20. Or via steamer from Southampton, in 3j days; fare, $42. London to Liverpool, via Oxford, Leamington, Chester, and Birkenhead (Great Western route); time, 8 hours; fare, $8 50. Or Xia the London and Northwestern (express), 5 h. London to Londonderry, Ireland, via Fleetwood; fare, $12; sea passage 11 hours to Belfast, thence by rail to Londonderry. London to Lucerne, Switzerland, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, and Olten; time, 29 hours; fare, $29. Or via Dieppe and Newhaven, Paris, Muhlhouse, and Basle; time, 36 hours; fare, $21 50. London to Lyons, France, via Calais and Dover; time, 21 hours; fare, $28. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris and Macon; time, 28 hours; fare, $20 50. London to Madeira, via Liverpool (three times each month); time, 7 days; fare, $96. London to Madrid, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Burgos; time, 47 hours; fare, $46. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe; time, 45 hours; fare, $43 50. London to Malaga, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Bordeaux, Madrid,Cordova; time, 73 hours; fare, $60. If Spain should be in a disturbed state (its normal condition), the best route would be via Paris and Marseilles, by steamer to Malaga (via Barcelona); time,7 days; fare, $62. Or viaDieppe, Newhaven, Paris, and as above; fare, $58. London to Malta (weekly), via Liverpool and Gibraltar; fare, $60.. London to Marseie, via Calais and Dover, Paris and Lyons; time, 25 hours; fare, $35 50. If via Newhaven and Dieppe, time, 34 hours; fare, $27 50. London to Mayence, via Calais and Dover, Brussels; time, 23 hours; fare, $21. Via Harwich and Rotterdam (daily); time, 25 hours; fare, $15 50. London to Milan, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Dijon, Macon, Mont Cenis, and Turin; time, 37 hours; fare, $34 25. Or 31! THE BEST AND iMOST DIRECT.ROUTES FROM LONDON via Newhaven and Dieppe; time, 43 m.; fare, $14. Or via Folkstone and Bouhours; fare, $26. logne (tidal train); time, 10 hours; fare, London to Modena, Italy (daily), via Cal- $13 25. Or via Dieppe, Newhaven, and ais and Dover, Paris, Culoz, Turin, Ales- Rouen; time, 16 hours; fare, $7 50. If sandria, Piacenza, and Parma; time, 40 traveling by the tidal train, travelers must hours; fare, $41 25. Or via Newhaven check their baggage through to Paris, to and Dieppe, Paris, and as above; time, 46 leave by the first train from Boulogne. hours; fare, $33 75. London to Parma, via Calais and Dover, London to Moscow, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Mont Cenis, and Turin (daily); time, to Brussels, Cologne, Berlin,Warsaw, Brest, 38 h. 30 m.; fare, $40. and Smolensk; time, 4 days; fare, $74. London to Pau, via Calais and Dover, London to Munich, via Harwich and Co- Paris, Bordeaux, and Dax (daily); time, logne; time, 36 hours; fare, $27 50. Via 30 hours; fare, $35. Change cars at Dax. Calais and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Stutt- London to Pesth, via Calais and Dover, gart, in 36 hours; fare, $37. Via Newha- Paris, Munich, and Vienna (daily); time, ven and Dieppe in 42 hours; fare, $29 50. 56 h. 20.m. (express); fare, $55 25. London to Naples, via Calais and Dover, London to Prague (daily), via Calais and Paris, Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Dover, Brussels, Cologne, Leipzig, and and Foggia (daily); time, 59 hours; fare, Dresden; time, 46 hours; fare, $39 45. $58 14. The time and fare via Marseilles London to the Rhine. (The Rhine is very and Genoa is about the same. Steamers tame below Cologne, and not much better may be taken at Marseilles direct to Na- above Mayence. During the season-June ples. Or, instead of taking the Brindisi to October-take steamer at Cologne or route via Ancona and Foggia, the route Bonn, and leave at Mayence.) To Cologne, via Bologna, Florence, and Perugia may via Harwich and Rotterdam, $11 75. To be taken; time a little longer; fare about Cologne, via Calais and Dover, Brussels, the same. If from Austria, the Austrian Liege,Verviers; time, 19 hours; fare, $18. Lloyd's steamers from Trieste to Ancona London to Rome, via Harwich, Rotter(sailing weekly); thence by rail to Naples dam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the via Foligino and Rome, or via Foggia. Brenner Pass; fare, $52 75. If via Dieppe and Newhaven from London London to Rome (laily),.ia Calais and to Paris, the fare will be $50 64; time, Dover, Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, Nice, Ge65 hours. noa, Piacenza, Bologna, and Florence, or London to Ntples, via Harwich, Rotter- via Spezzia and Florence; time, 52 h. dam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the 33 m.; fare, $55 16. Or via Calais, Paris, Brenner Pass; fare, $59 39. Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, and London to Nice, via Calais and Dover, Florence; time, 55hours: fare, $65 10. Or Macon, Lyons, Marseilles, and Toulon (dai- via Newhaven, Dieppe, and Paris. ly); time, 31 h. 30 m.; fare, $41. Or via London to Rotterdam, via Calais and Newhaven and Dieppe; time, 37 hours; Brussels (daily); time, 17 hours; fare, fare, $33 50. $15 25. Or vi Harwich by steamer diLondon to Ostend, via Dover, by rail and rect; time, 15 hours; fare, $6 25. steamer to Ostend (daily); time, 7 h. 15 m.; London to Schlangenbad, via Calais. Cofare, $9 25. logne, and Wiesbaden; time, 30 hours; London.to Pakrso, via Calais and Do- fare, $21 40. ver, Paris, Lyons, and Marseilles, and by London to Schwalbach, via Calais and Dothe Messageries Maritimes' steamers to Pa- ver, Cologne, Biebrich, Wiesbaden, thence lermo; time, 76 hours; fare, $68 50. Or by diligence to Schwalbach; time, 30 via Calais and Dover, Paris, Mont Cenis, hours; fare, $20 75. Bologna, Foggia, and Naples. Then by London to Spa, via Ostend, Brussels, steamer to Palermo in 18 hours; time, 77 Liege, Verviers, and Pepinster; time, 14 h. hours; fare, $66 30. Or via Newhaven 20 m.; fare, $14 12. and Dieppe, Paris, and Naples; time, 84 London to St. Moritz, Switzerland, via hours; fare, $59. Calais and Dover, Paris, Muhlhouse, Basle, London to Paris (twice daily), via Calais Zurich, and Coire, thence by diligence. and Dover, and 'Amiens; time, 10 h. 30 London to St. Petersburg, via Harwich, 32 TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS, CITIES, PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC. lotterdam, Hanover, and Berlin; time, 62 hours; fare, $54 56. London to St. Petersburg (daily), via Calais and Dover, Cologne, Berlin, Warsaw, and Rigi; time, 64 h. 20 m. (express); fare, $67 50. Also by steamer to Hamburg, railway to Lubeck, thence by steamer to St. Petersburg, in 6 days; fare, about $45. London to Stuttgart, via Harwich; time, 311 hours; fare, $21 25. Via Ostend, Brussels, Cologne, and Bruchsal; time, 29 h. 30 m.; fare, $25.50. London to Tours (daily), via Calais and Dover, Paris; time, 16 hours; fare, $20. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris; time, 22 hours; fare, $12 50. London to Trieste, via Harwich, Rotterdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the Brenner Pass; fare, $47 32. London to Trieste, via Calais, Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, Nuremberg, Regensburg, Linz, and Trieste; time, 64 hours; fare, $54. Or via Paris, Strasbourg, Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna; time, 64 h. 40 m.; fare, $65. London to Turin, via Calais and Dover, Paris, Mont Cenis, and Susa; time, 34 hours; fare, $34 75. London to Venice, via Harwich, Rotterdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the Brenner Pass; fare, $42 75. London to Venice (daily), via Calais and Dover, Paris, Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Milan,Verona, and Padua; time, 40 hours; fare, $44 50. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris, and as above; time, 46 hours; fare, $37. London to Verona, via Harwich, Rotterdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the Brenner Pass; fare, $39 61. London to Vichy (daily), via Calais and Dover, Paris; time, 24 hours (four hours in Paris); fare, $23 25. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris; time, 30 hours; fare, $15 75. London to Vienna (daily), via Harwich; time, 51 hours; fare, $37 50. Or via Calais and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Stuttgart, and Munich; time, 48 hours; fare, $49 75. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris, and as above; time, 54 hours; fare, $42 25. London to ~Warsaw (daily). via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Cologne, Berlin,and Bromberg; time, 41 h6urs; fare, $44. " London to Wiusbaden (daily), via Harwich; time, 27 hours; fare, $15,75. Or via Calais and Dover, Brussels, Liege, Verviers, and Cologne; time (by rail from Cologne), 24 hours; fare, $20 75. If by steamer from Cologne, 31 hours. London to Wildbad (Baths), via Calais and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Carlsruhe, and Pforzheim; time, 32 hours; fare, $30 40. London to Zurich, via Calais and Dover, Paris, and Basle; time, 29 h. 30 m.; fare, $30 85. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe; time, 35 hours; fare, $23 35. All the above fares are first class. If traveling second class, the fare averages about twenty-five per cent. less; the time is by express train. By adding the ocean fare to the above, and doubling the amount, the traveling cost from the United States to any of the above-mentioned places will be ascertained. Twenty francs, or four dollars, per day, will be the average price for first-class hotels. Then some allowance must be madb for cabs, carriages, and fees for baggage, etc. In England there is no extra charge for baggage. In Switzerland and Italy none at all is allowed. In most other countries one hundred pounds is allowed to every first-class passenger; beyond that amount one pays extra. London to the East, via the Suez Canal. The Peninsular and Oriental Company dispatch their steamers from Southampton, via the Suez Canal, every Thursday for the Mediterranean and Bombay; every second Thursday for Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, China, Japan, Australia, and New Zealand; every fourth Thursday for Queensland. Corresponding steamers are dispatched from Venice every Friday, and from Brindisi every Monday, to Alexandria, Aiden, and Bombay. The above calculations are based on the ordinary rate of speed by express trains. VoL. I.-B 2 THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN GREAT BRITAIN AND THE CONTINENTS OF ASIA, AFRICA, AND EUROPE. The time is by the quickest trains and steamers, and the fares first class. The second class averages about twenty-five per cent. less. First class is always preferable if the traveler can afford it, the second never being equal in comfort. By referring to the Index at the end of this volume, the names of places mentioned in the different routes will be found. Paris to Adelsburg (cave of), Austria, via Strasbourg,Stuttgart,Munich,Vienna, and Gratz; or cross the Brenner Pass from Munich via Kufstein, Innspruck, Verona, Venice, and Trieste; or by rail from Verona and Udine; time, 48 h. 40 m.; fare, $47 55. The former route is the cheapest and quickest, although appearing longest on the map. Paris to Aigle-les-Bains, Switzerland, via Dijon, Dole, Neufchatal, Lausanne, and Vevay; time, 17 hours 30 m.; fare, $14 90. Paris to Aix-la-Chapelle (two departures daily), via Creil, Compiegne, Tergnier, St.Quentin, Maubeuge,Charleroi, Namur, and Liege; time, 9 h. 42 m.; fare, $9 50. Paris to Aix-les-Bains, France (two departures daily), via Fontainebleau, Melun, Dijon, Beaune, Macon, Amberieu, and Culoz; time, 13 h. 29 m.; fare, $14 40. Paris to Alexandria, Egypt (twice a week), via Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis, Turin. Bologna, Ancona, and Brindisi; time, 5 d. 12 h.; fare, $75 50. Or via the Messageries Maritimes of Marseilles; time, 6 d. 20 h.; fare, $111 24. Paris to Algiers, via Dijon, Lyons, Marseilles, and Barcelona; time to Marseilles, 16 hours, and via the Messageries Maritimes'steamers, 39 hours: steamers generally sail Saturday afternoons at 5 P.M. Leaving Paris by the express train, 7.15 P.M. Friday, the traveler will have six hours in Marseilles before the sailing of the steamer; fare to Marseilles, $21 50. 34 Paris to Amiens, France, via Creil; time, 2 h. 40 m.; fare, $3 20. Paris to Amsterdam, via Amiens, Lille, Mons, Brussels, Rotterdam,and the Hague; time, 14 h. 54 m.; fare, $12 10. Paris to Ancona, Italy, via Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Bologna; time, 33 h. 40 m.; fare, $32 28. Paris to Antwerp (two departures daily), via Amiens, Lille, Mons, and Brussels; time, 8 h. 48 m.; fare, $9 56. Paris to Aries, France, via Dijon, Macon, and Lyons; time, 17 h. 50 m.; fare, $19 10. Paris to Arona, Lake Maggiore, Italy, via Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Novara; time, 24 h. 30 m.; fare, $23 60. Paris to Athens (weekly), via Dijon, Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Ancona, Brindisi; if via the Austrian Lloyd's steamers, the traveler stops at the islands of Corfu, Cephalonia (Argostoli), Zante, Cerigo, and Syra; change steamers at Syra; every other week to Piraeus (Athens); time, 7 d. 4 h. (46 h. 45 m. to Brindisi); fare, $81 50. Direct via Marseilles (every two weeks), 5 d. 18 h.; fare, $80 90. Paris to Augsburg, Bavaria (two departures daily), via Chalons, Nancy, Strasbourg, Carlsruhe, Bruchsal Junction, and Stuttgart; time, 22 h. 50 m.; fare, $21 50. Paris to A vignon, France, via Fontainebleau, Dijon, Macon, and Lyons; time, 16 h. 34 m.; fare, $18 25. Paris to Baden, Austria (Baths), daily, via Strasbourg, Stuttgart, Munich, and Vienna; time, 36 h. 40 m.; fare, $36. Paris to Baden, Switzerland, via Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, and Olten; time,17 hours; fare, $14 50. Paris to Baden-Baden (two departures daily), via Chalons, Nancy, and Strasbourg; time, 13 h. 40 m.; fare, $14. Paris to Bagnerres de Bigorre (Pyrenees), via Orleans, Tours, Poitiers, Angoulbme, Bordeaux, and Tarbes; time, 19 h. THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS. 35 m.; fare, $21. (The waters of this place are very efficacious in cases of gout.) Paris to Bagneres de Luchon, Pyrenees, via Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, Tarbes, and Montrejeau; time, 22 h. 50 m.; fare, $23. Paris to Bamberg, Germany, via Cologne, Coblentz, Mayence, Frankfort, and Wurzburg; time, 24 h. 30 m. Paris to Barcelona, via Bordeaux, Bayonne, Pampeluna, and Saragossa; time, 60 hours; fare, $35 50. Paris to Basle, via Belfort and Muhlhouse; time, 10 h. 35 m.; fare, $12 80. Paris to Bath, England, via London and Reading; time, 14 hours; fare, $17 25. Paris to Bayonne, via Tours, Poitiers, and Bordeaux; time, 17 h. 40 m.; fare, $19 25. Paris to Belfast, Ireland, via London; time, 27 h. 40 rm.; fare, $29 50. Paris to BeJfort, via Troyes, Chaumont, and Langres; time, 11 hours day train, and 10 h. 20 m. night train; fare, $10 90. Paris to Berlin, via Liege, Cologne, and Magdeburg; time, 23 h. 45 m.; fare, $25 20. Paris to Berne, via Dijon, Dole, Pontarlier, and Neufchatel; time, 14 h. 45 m.; fare, $13 60. Paris to Bethlehem, via Mont Cenis, Brindisi, Alexandria, Port Said, Jaffa, and Jerusalem (Austrian Lloyd's); time. 15 days a fare, $125. Paris to Bex, Switzerland, via Dijon, Dole, Pontarlier, Lausanne, and Vevay; time, 18 h. 40 m.; fare, $15. Or via Dijon, Macon, and Geneva; time and fare about the same as above. Paris to Beyrout, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Corfu, Zante, Syra, Smyrna, Rhodes, and Cyprus; time, 14 days; fare, $118. Paris to Biarritz, via Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, and Bayonne; time, 16 h. 49 m.; fare, $19 53. Paris to Bingen, on the Rhine, via Liege, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Cologne; time, 15 h. 25 m.; fare, $14 60. Paris to Birmingham, via Calais, Dover, and London; time, 12 h. 30 m.; fare, $17 50. Paris to Blois, via Etampes and Orleans; time, 4 h. 13 m.; fare, $4 40. Paris to Bologna, via Clermont and Amiens; time, 4 h. 20 m.; fare, $6 25. Paris to Bombay, via Macon, Mont Ce nis, Bologna, Brindisi, Alexandria, and Suez (every other week); time, 18 days; fare, $353. Paris to Bonn, Germany, via Compiegne, Liege, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Cologne; time, 15 hours; fare, $12 37. Paris to Bordeaux, via Orleans, Tours, and Poitiers; time, 9 h. 40 m.; fare, $14 40. Paris to Bormio, via Belfort, Basle, Zurich, Coire, Samaden, and Sirano; time, 43 hours; fare, $25 30. Paris to Boulogne, via Creil and Amiens; time, 4 h. 40 m.; fare, $6 25. Paris to Bregenz, Tyrol, via Belfort,Muhlhouse, Basle, Zurich, and Romanshorn; time, 21 h. 20 m.; fare, $17 30. Paris to Bremen, via Liege, Cologne, Minden, and Hanover; time, 20 h. 20 m.; fare, $18 75. Paris to Brest, via Chartres, Le Mans, Rennes, and Morlaix; time, 14 hours; fare. $15 35. Paris to Brienz, via Berne, Thun, and Interlachen; time, 20 h. 45 m.; fare, $16 20. Paris to Brighton, England, via Rouen, Dieppe, and Newhaven; time, 18 hours; fare, $8 75. Paris to Brindisi, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, and Ancona; time, 46 h. 45 m.; fare,$44 68. Paris to Bruges, via Brussels; time, 8 h. 38 m.; fare, $8 65. Paris to Brunswick, Germany, via Cologne,Hamm,Minden, and Hanover; time, 20 h. 23 m.; fare, $19 55. Paris to Brussels, via Mons and Maubeuge; time, 6 h. 38 m.; fare, $6 80. Paris to Bucharest, Roumania, via Strasbourg, Stuttgart, Munich, Vienna, Lemberg, Jassy, and Galatz; or via Munich, Vienna, Pesth, and Baziasch, by steamers on the Danube to Rustchuk; time, 4 days; fare, changeable, but about $70. Paris to Burgos, Spain, via Orleans, Bordeaux, and Bayonne; time, 25 h. 10 m.; fare, $34 25. Paris to Cadiz, via Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Cordova, and Seville; time, 61 h. 20 m.; fare, $42 12. Paris to Caen, via Mantes, Evreux, and Lisieux; time, 5 h. 18 m.; fare, $5 88. Paris to Cairo, Egypt, via Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Brindisi, and Alexandria; time, 6 days; fare, $80. ia5 THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS Paris to Calais, via Creil, Amiens, and Boulogne; time, 5 h. 35 m.; fare, $7 35. Paris to Calcutta, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Brindisi, to Alexandria, rail to Suez, and via the Peninsular and Oriental steamers to Point de Galle; time, 26 days; fare, $378. Paris to Cambridge, England, via Calais, Dover, and London; time, 14 hours; fare, $17. Paris to Cannes, via Dijon, Lyons, Marseilles, and Toulon; time, 21 h. 49 m.; fare, $26. Paris to Cannstadt (near Munich), via Strasbourg, Stuttgart, Augsburg, and Munich; time, 36 h. 30 m.; fare, $23. Paris to Carlisle, via Calais, Dover, London, Rugby, and Crewe; time, 20 h. 50 m.; fare, $28. Paris to Carlsbad, via Frankfort, Wurzburg, Bamberg, Hof, Franzensbad, and Eger; time, 33 h. 20 m.; fare, $26. Paris to Carlsruhe, via Strasbourg and Baden-Bade.n.; time,14 h.30 m.; fare,$14 65. Paris to Cassel, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, and Frankfort; time, 22 h. 30 m.; fare, $21 10. Paris to Cette. via Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, Agen, Toulouse, Carcassonne, and Narbonne; time, 23 h. 45 m.; fare, $26 15. Paris to Chalons sr Miarne, via Epernay; time, 4 hours; fare, $4 25. Paris to Chalons sur Saone, via Fontainebleau and Dijon; time, 8 h. 25 m.; fare, $9 45. Paris to Chamounix, via Dijon, Macon, and Geneva. By rail to Geneva, thence by diligence; time, 26 hours; fare, $20 50. Paris to Charleroi, via Compiegne and St. Quentin; time, 5 h. 40 m.; fare, $6 50. Paris to Chatsworth, England, via Calais and Dover, London, Derby, and Rowsley Station; time, 15 hours; fare, $18 25. Paris to Cherbourg, via Chartres, Le Mans, Rennes, and St. Brieuc; time 16 h. 40 m.; fare, $15 35. Paris to Christiania, via Cologne, Minden, Hanover, Hamburg, and Keil; time, 3 d. 18 h.; fare, $34 75. Or by steamer ia London; time, 3 days; fare, $38. Paris to Clarens, Switzerland, via Macon, Geneva, Lausanne, and Vevay; time, 17 hours; fare, $15 50. Paris to Coblentz, via Namur, Liege, Colone,dand Bonn; time, 15 h. 5 m.; fare, $13 45. 8s6 Paris to Coire, Switzerland, via Belfort, Muhllhouse, Basle, and Zurich; time, 23 hours; fare, $18 20. Paris to Colico. Italy, on Lake Como, via Belfort, Muhlbouse, Basle, Zurich, Coire, thence by diligence to Splugen, and Chiavenna by the Via Jlal't; whole time, 44 hours; fare, $24 80. The time from Coire by diligence is 21 hours. Paris to Coloqne, via Namur, Liege, and Aix-la-Chapelle; time, 11 h. 5 m.; fare, $11 75. Paris to Como (Lake of), via Belfort, Basle, Zurich, Coire, Splugen (via Mala), Chiavenna, and Colico (by diligence from Coire, 21 hours); time, 44 hours; fare, $24 30. Paris to Compiegne, via Creil; time, 1 h. 29 m.; fare, $2 06. Paris to Constantinople, via Vienna and the Imperial and Royal Danube Steamers; time, 4 d. 9 h.; fare, $83 70-the quickest and cheapest route to Constantinople. Paris to Constantinople, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Corfu, and Syra, by the Austrian Lloyd's steamers from Brindisi; time, 7 d. 16 h.; fare, $9418. Paris to Copenhagen, via Cologne, Hanover, Hamburg, and Kiel; time, 40 h. 30 m.; fare, $26 50. Paris to Cordova, Spain, via Bordeaux, Bayonne, and Madrid; time, 51 h. 40 m.; fare, $45 72. Paris to Cork, Ireland, via Dieppe, London, and Plymouth; fare, $13 75. A quicker route is via Calais, London, Bangor, and Dublin, but double the expense. Paris to Cowes, via Havre and Southampton, and steamer from Southampton to Cowes; time, 14 hours; fare, $6 25. Paris to Cracow, via Cologne, Berlin, and Breslau; time, 39 h. 33 m.; fare, $36 30. Paris to Cyprus (Island of), via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Ancona, Brindisi, and by the Austrian Lloyd's steamers to Corfu, Syra, Smyrna, and Rhodes; time, 11 days; fare, $111 75. Or via Brindisi direct to Alexandria, Port Said, Jaffa, and Beyrout; about the same expense. Paris to Damascus, via Mont Cenis, Bologna,Brindisi,and Beyrout; time,15 days; fare, $123 (by the Austrian Lloyd's). Paris to Dantzic, via Cologne, Hanover, Berlin, Stettin, Colberg, and Stolpe; time, 86 hours; fare, $33 68. TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC. Paris to the Dardanelles, via Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Zante, Syra, and Smyrna; time, 9 days; fare, $91 (by the Austrian Lloyd's from Brindisi). Paris to Darmstadt, via Epernay, Nancy, Strasbourg, and Heidelberg; time, 21 h. 20 m.; fare, $16 57. Paris to Dieppe, via Rouen and Cleres; time, 4 hours; fare, $4 12. Paris to Djyon, via Fontainebleau and Tonnerre; time, 6 h. 29 m.; fare, $7 72. Paris to Dole, via Fontainebleau, Tonnerre, and Dijon; time, 8 h. 8 m.; fare, $8-90. Paris to Doma d'Ossola, via Macon, Geneva, Lausanne, Sierre, by diligence to Brieg and via the Simplon; time, 36 hours; fare, $22 60. Paris to Dover, via Dieppe; time, 8 h. 30 m.; fare, $9 43. Paris to Dresden, via Cologne, Hanover, Maagdeburg, and Leipzig; time, 22 h. 25 mn.: fare, $26 85. Paris to Dublin, via Calais, Dover, London, Chester, and-Bangor; time, 21 hours; fare, $29 75. Pa7is to Dunkirk, via Amiens, Arras, and Hazerbrouck; time, 10 hours; fare, $7 50. Paris to Dusseldorf, via St. Quentin, Liege, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Neuss; time, 12 hours; fare, $11 27. Paris to Eaux Bonnes, via Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, and Pau; time, 21 h. 50 m.; fare, $21 85. Diligences leave Pau daily for Eaux Bonnes; time, 4 h. 20 m.; fare in the coup6, $1 50 A private carriage costs $4. Paris to Eaux Chaudes, via Orleans, Tours, and Bordeaux; time, 22 hours; fare, $21 85. Paris to Edinburgh, via Calais, Dover, London, Rugby, Preston, and Carlisle; time, 22 hours; fare, $28 50. Paris to Egypt, tia Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, and Austrian Lloyd's steamers; time, 5 d. 12 h.; fare, $75 50. Paris to Eisenach, via Strasbotrg, Frankfort, and Bebra; time, 25 hours; fare, $24 80. Paris to Emerich, via Namur, Liege, Cologne, and Oberhausen; time, 14 h. 55 m.; fare, $14 20. Paris to Ems, via Namur, Liege, Aixla-Chapelle, Cologne, and Coblentz; time, 16 a. 56 m. fare, $145. 1 2 L Paris to Epernay, via Chateau-Thierry; time, 3 hours; fare, $4 25. Paris to Ephesus, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Corfu, Zante, Syra, Scio, and Smyrna; time, 8 days; fare, $88. Paris to Erfurt, via Strasbourg, Frankfort, Bebra, and Gotha; time, 26 h. 50 m.; fare, $27. Paris to Evreux, via Mantes, Bueil, and Boisset-Pacy; time, 2 h. 13 m.; fare, $2 66. Paris to Florence, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Bologna; time, 32 h. 30 m.; fare, $30 44. Paris to Foligno, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, and Florence; time; 37 h. 50 m.; fare, $34 94. Paris to Fontainebleau, via Melun; time, 1 h. 17 nm.; fare, $1 45. Paris to Frankfort, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Carlsruhe, and Heidelberg; time, 18 h. 80 m.; fare, $17. Paris to Freiburg, Baden, via Nancy and Strasbourg; time, 15 hours; fare, $14 80. Paris to Freshwater, Isle of Wight, via Rouen, Havre, Southampton, and Ryde; time, 17 hours; fare, $7 50. Paris to Freyburg, Switzerland, via Dijon, Dole, and Pontarlier; time, 16 hourse fare, $14 15. Paris to Geneva, via Dijon, Macon, and Culoz; two trains daily. An express leaves Paris at 8.40 P.M., arriving at Geneva at 10.35 A.M.-say 14 hours; this train has only first-class cars. There is also a train at 6.30 A.M., arriving at Ge. neva at 11.18 P.M.-16 h. 48 m. Many persons prefer the latter train, as during the season one has-nlore room, can read, or watch the scenery; and, if traveling with servants, it is more economical, as there are second and third class carriages attached. Fare, 77.05 fr. $1 40. Paris to Genoa, via Macon, Lyons, Avignon, Marseilles, Toulon, Nice, Mentone, and Vintimiglia; time, 31 h. 30 m. fare, $31. Or via Macon, Culoz, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Alessandria; time, 36 hours; fare, $25 25. Paris to St. Gervais (Baths), Switzerland, via Macon, Culoz, and Geneva; time, 20 hours (6 by diligence from Geneva): fare, $19 80 (coupb, $4 40; banquette or interior, $3 40). -. - 37 - THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS Paris to Ghent, via Amiens, Douai, and Lille; time, 7 h. 10 m.; fare, $7 34. Paris to Gibraltar, via Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz; time, 85 hours; fare, $55 50. Cadiz to Gibraltar by steamer in 24 hours. Paris to Glasgow, via Calais, Dover, London, Rugby, and Carlisle; time, 22 hours; fare, $28 50. Paris to Gotha, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Frankfort, Bebra, and Eisenach; time, 24 h. 30 m.; fare, $25 68. Paris to Gittingen, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Frankfort, and Cassel; time, 24 hours; fare, $22 27.. Paris to Granada, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Cordova, Boabdilla (junction), and Loja; time, 61 hours; fare, $55. When the railway from Boabdiila to Loja is finished, the time will be reduced about 5 hours. Paris to Gratz, Austria, via Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, and Bruck; time, 41 h. 37 m.; fare, $40 80. Paris to Greenock, via Calais, Dover, London, Rugby, and Carlisle; time, 22 hours; fare, $28 50. Paris to Grenoble, via Macon, Lyons, and Rives; time, 15 hours; fare, $12 50. Paris to the Hague, via Mons, Brussels, and Antwerp; time, 12 h. 56 m.; fare, $11. Paris to Hamburg, via Namur, Liege, Cologne, and Hanover; time, 23 hours; fare, $21. Paris to Hanover, via Namur, Liege, Cologne, and Hamm; time, 20 h. 41 m.; fare, $20 88. Paris to Havre, via Mantes and Rouen; time, 4 h. 50 m.; fare, $5 62. Paris to Heidelberg, via Toul, Epernay, Strasbourg, and Carlsruhe; time, 18 h. 20 m.; fare, $15 75. Paris to Homburg, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, and Frankfort; time, 19 h. 15 m.; fare, $17 40. Paris to Hong Kong, India, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Ancona, Brindisi, Austrian Lloyd's steamers to Alexandria, rail to Suez, and Peninsular and Oriental steamers to Hong Kong; whole time, 37 days; fare, $478. These vessels touch at Bombay, Point de Galle, Madras, Calcutta, Penang, Singapore, and Batavia. They also proceed to Shanghai in six days more, and to Yokohama in nine more. Departures from Suez every two weeks, 88 - Travelers should leave Paris one week before the departure of the steamers from Suez, and engage passage, by letter or otherwise, at the company's office in London, or at the agents' at Alexandria or Suez. Passengers will be conveyed from Alexandria to Suez in twelve hours, including stoppages for refreshments (for which they must pay), viz., fifteen minutes at KafrZayat, thirty minutes at Zagazig, and fifteen minutes at Nefisha. Each first-class passenger, with a through ticket, is allowed 336 pounds of baggage. Passengers can either buy through tickets from the Austrian Lloyd's company, or pay that company to Alexandria, and their own expenses thence to Suez. Paris to Hyeres, via Dijon, Lyons, Marseilles, and Toulon; time, 18 hours; fare, $23 15. Paris to Innspruck, via Strasbourg, Augsburg, Munich, and Kufstein; time, 29 h. 30 m.; fare, $27. Paris to Interlachen, via Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, Berne, and Thun; time 21 h. 10 m.; fare, $16. Paris to Jajfiz, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Alexandria, and Port Said; time, 7 days; fare, $110 68. Paris to Jerez, via Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Cordova, and Seville; time, 60 hours; fare, $45 10. Paris to Jerusalem, via Mont Cenis, Ancona, Brindisi, Zante, Alexandria, Port Said, and Jaffa; time, 7 d. 10 h.; fare, $115 68. Paris to Kiel, Prussia, via Cologne, Hanover, and Hamburg; time, 24 hours; fare, $24 49. Paris to Killarney (Lakes of), Ireland, via Calais, London, Holyhead, Dublin, and Kildare; time, 28 hours; fare, $36. Paris to Kingstown, Ireland, via Calais, Dover, London, Chester, and Holyhead; time, 20 h. 45 m.; fare, $29 50. Paris to Kissingen, Bavaria, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Frankfort, and Wurzburg; time, 22 h. 20 m.; fare $23 45. Paris to La Rochelle, via Orleans, Poitiers, and Niort; time, 12 hours; fare, $11 50. Paris to Lausanne, via Dijon, Dole, Pontarlier, and Neufchatel; time, 16 hours; fare, $14. Paris to Leghorn, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Genoa; time,35 hours; fare,$31. TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC. Paris to Leipzig, via Cologne, Hanover, seilles,Toulon, and Nice; time, 24 h. 20m.; and Magdeburg; time, 24 hours; fare, fare, $27 40. $22 60. Paris to Messina, via Dijon, Lyons, and Paris to Leukerbad, Switzerland, via Di- Marseilles. jon, Dole, Lausanne, and Sierre (carriage Paris to Milan, via Macon, Mont Cenis, 12 miles from Sierre); time, 26 hours; fare Turin, and Novara; time, 27 hours; fare, $15 60. $23 36. Paris to Liege, via Compiegne, Namur, Paris to Minden, via Namur, Liege, and and Huy; time, 7 h. 55 m.; fare, $8 40. Cologne; time, 17 h. 45 m.; fare, $15 80. Paris to Lisbon, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Paris to Modane, via Macon, Culoz, and Bayonne, Madrid, Manzanares, and Bada- Chambery; time, 17 h. 10 m.; fare, $17 87. joz; time, 68 hours; fare, $61. Paris to Modena, via Macon, Mont CeParis to Liverpool, via Calais, Dover, nis, Turin, and Piacenza; time, 27 hours; and London; time, 18 hours; fare, $23. fare, $26 96. Paris to London, via Calais and Dover; Paris to Monaco, via Macon, Lyons, Martime, 10 h. 30 m.; fare, $14 50. Via New- seilles, Toulon, and Nice; time, 23 h. 50 haven and Dieppe; time, 16 hours; fare, m.; fare, $27 15. $7 50. Paris to Montpellier, via Dijon, Lyons, Paris to Londonderry, via Chester, Holy- and Tarascon; time, 16 h. 30 m.; or via head, and Dublin; time, 28 h. 20 m.; fare, Bordeaux, Toulouse, and Narbonne; time, $31. 24 hours; fare, $26 85. Paris to Lucerne, via Belfort, Muhlhouse, Paris to Montreux, Switzerland, via DiBasle, and Olten; time, 17 h. 55 m.; fare, jon, Dole, Belfort, Neufchatel, Lausanne, $14 72. and Vevay; time, 17 hours; fare, $12 65. Paris to Lyons, via Fontainebleau and Paris to Moscow, via Cologne, Berlin, Macon; time, 9 h. 15 m.; fare, $12 50. Bromberg, Warsaw, Brest, and Smolensk; Paris to Madrid, via Orleans, Bordeaux, time, 85 hours; fare, $67. Since the railBayonne, and Burgos; time, 36 hours; fare, way has been opened from Smolensk to $36 15. Moscow, the traveler can reach that city Paris to Magdeburg, via Namur, Liege, without going to St. Petersburg. Cologne, Minden, and Hanover; time, Paris to Munich, via Strasbourg and 22 h. 20 m.; fare, $21 70. Stuttgart; time, 36 hours; fare, $22 85. Paris to Malaga, Spain, via Orleans, Paris to Namur, Belgium, via Creil, St. Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, and Cordo- Quentin, and Maubeuge; time, 6 h. 35 m;; va; time, 60 hours; fare, $50 55. fare, $7 65. Paris to Manchester, via Calais, London, Paris to Nantes, via Orleans, Tours, Rugby, and Crewe; time, 16 hours; fare, Saumur, and Angers; time, 8 h. 21 m.; $22 50. fare, $10 60. Paris to Mantua, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Paris to Naples, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Milan, Bergamo, and Verona; time, Turin, Bologna, and Foggia; time, 46 h. 21 hours; fare, $28 61. 20 m.; fare, $47 97. Paris to Marienbad, via Frankfort, Paris to Narbonne, via Orleans, Tours, Wurzburg, Bamberg, Hof, and Eger; Bordeaux, Toulouse, and Carcassonne; time, 33 hours; fare, $26. time, 19 h. 25 m.; fare, $24 50. Paris to Marseilles, via Dijon, Macon, Paris to Neufchatel, via Dijon, Dole, and Lyons; time, 15 hours; fare, $21 25. and Pontarlier; time, 11 h. 50 m.; fare, Paris to Martigny, Switzerland, via Di- $12 30. jon, Dole, Belfort, Lausanne, Vevay, and Paris to Nice, via Dijon, Lyons, AvigVilleneuve; time, 18 h. 25 m.; fare, $13 non, Marseilles, and Toulon; time (ex75. press), 23 hours; fare, $25 65. Paris to Mayence, via Liege, Cologne, Paris to Nimes, via Dijon, Macon, LyBonn, Coblentz, and Bingen; time, 17 h. ons, and Tarascon; time, 15 h. 26 m.; fare, 20 m.; fare, $15 55. $19 48. Paris to Mechlin, via Mons, Maubeuge, Paris to Novara, via Macon, Mont Ceand Brussels; time, 7 hours; fare, $7 75. nis, and Turin; time, 23 h. 20 m. i fare, Paris to Metone, via Dijon, Lyons, Mar- $22 80. 89 THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS Paris to Nuremberg, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Carlsruhe, Stuttgart, Nordling, and Gunzenhausen; time, 31 hours; fare, $23 65. Or more direct via Cologne, Frankfort, and Wurzburg; time, 24 hours; fare, $20 40. Paris to Oberhausen, via Namur, Liege, Cologne, and Dusseldorf; time, 13 hours; fare, $13. Paris to Olten, via Troyes, Chaumont, Belfort, and Basle; time, 15 h. 50 m.; fare, $14 80. Paris to Oporto, Portugal, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Manzanares, Badajoz, and Lisbon; time, 79 h. 30 m.; fare, $64. Paris to Ostend, via Amiens, Arras, Lille, and Ghent; time, 8 hours; fare, $7 70. Paris to Ouchy, Lausanne, via Dijon, Dole, Belfort, and Neufchatel; time, 16 hours; fare, $12. Paris to Oxford, England, via Calais, Dover, and London; time, 12 hours; fare, $17 25. Paris to Padua, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Melun, Bergamo, and Verona; time, 23 h. 35 m.; fare, $28 06. Paris to Palermo, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Foggia, and Naples, and steamer to Palermo in 18 hours; time, 65 hours; fare, $44 50. Paris to Pamplona, Spain, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Bayonne, and Alsasua; time, 20 h. 20 m.; fare, $26 85. Paris to Parma, via Mont Genis, Turin, aad Alessandria; time, 26 hours; fare, $16. Paris to Pau, via Orleans, Bordeaux, and Dax; time, 16 h. 23 m.; fare, $20 16. Paris to Pembroke, via Calais, London, Oxford, Gloucester, Cardiff, and Carmar* then; time, 22 hours. Paris to Perpignan, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Toulouse, Narbonne, and La Nouvelle; time, 24 hours; fare, $25 97. Paris to Pesth, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Munich, and Vienna; time, 42 h. 40 m.; fare, $41. Paris to Pfefers (Baths of), Ragatz, via Chaumont, Belfort, Basle, Zurich, and Ragatz; time, 23 h. 10 m.; fare, $18 80. Paris to Pierrefonds (Baths of), via Creil and Compiegne; time, 2 h. 30 m. Distance from Compiegne by omnibus or carriage, 7:miles. a. Paris to Pisa, via Macon, Mont Cenia,. ^ 4 Turin, Bologna, and Florence; time, 35 hours; fare, $35 19. Paris to Poitiers, via Orleans and Tours; time, 6 h. 8 m.; fare, $8 10. Paris to Prague, via Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Wurzburg, Nuremberg, Schwandorf, and Furth; time, 38 hours; fare, $30 15. Paris to Presburg, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Stuttgart, Munich, and Salzburg; time, 38 hours; fare, $36 97. Paris to Ragatz, via Chaumont, Belfort, Basle, and Zurich; time, 22 hours; fare, $17 80. Paris to Ram.egate, England, via Calais, Dover, and Canterbury; time, 9 h. 30 m.; fare, $10 40. Paris to Ratisbon, via Avricourt, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Darmstadt, Wurzburg, and Nuremberg; time, 27 hours; fare, $24. Paris to Rheims, via Soissons; time, 3 h. 45 m.; fare, $3 93. Paris to the Rhine, via Liege and Aixla-Chapelle to Cologne; time, 11 h. 45 m.; fare, $11 80. Paris to Riga, Russia, via Cologne, Berlin, Eydtkuhnen, and Dunabourg; time, 58 hours; fare, $54. Paris to Rochefort (sur Mer), via Orleans, Tours, and Poitiers; time, 11 h. 51 m.; fare, $11 68. Paris to Romanshorn, via Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, and Zurich; time, 19 h. 20 m.; fare, $16 45. Paris to Rome, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, and Florence; time, 42 h. 33 m.; fare, $41 16. Paris to Rotterdam, via Mons, Brussels, and Antwerp; time, 13 hours; fare, $10 45. Paris to Rouen, via Mantes; time, 2 h. 40 m.; fare, $2 18. Paris to Rudesheim, via Cologne and Bingerbruck, thence over the Rhine by boat; time, 14 h. 45 m.; fare, $14 75. Paris to Rustchuk, via Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, and Pesth. From Pesth to Rustchuk by steamer; time, 80 hours. Paris to Ryde, Isle of Wight, via Havre and Southampton; time, 14 hours. Paris to Salzburg, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Carlsruhe, and Munich; time, 28 h. 30 m.; fare, $26 40. Paris to Saragossa, Spain, via Bordeaux, Bayonne, and Alsasua; time, 29 h. 50 m.; fare, $43. -Paris to SChlngenbad, ia Namur, Liege, TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC. -Cologne, Bingerbruck, Rudesheim, and Eltville; time, 17 h. 20 m.; fare, $16 12. Diligence from Eltville (2 h. 15 m.) in summer only. Paris to Schwalbach, via Namur, Liege, Cologne, Bingerbruck, and Rudesheim; time, 17 h. 45 m.; fare, $16 34. Paris to Shanghai, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Alexandria, Suez, Bombay,-Madras, Calcutta, Singapore, Batxvia, and Hong Kong; time, 47 days; fare, $515. Passengers take the Austrian Lloyd's steamers to Alexandria; then rail to Suez; thence by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers to their destination. Paris to Southampton, via Rouen and Havre; time, 13 h. 20 m.; fare, $7 75. Paris to Spa, via Liege; time, 9 h. 45 m.; fare, $8 95. Paris to Spezzia, via Lyons, Marseilles, Nice, and Genoa. Paris to Stockholm, via Cologne, Berlin, and Stettin; fare, $35 70. Paris to Strasbourg, via Nancy and Avricourt; time, 12 hours; fare, $12 25. Paris to Stratford-on-Avon, via Calais, Dover, and London; time, 16 hours; fare, $19 50. Paris to Stuttgart, via Nancy, Avricourt, Strasbourg, and Carlsruhe; time, 20 h. 10 m.; fare, $16 05. Paris to St. Bernard, via Dijon, Dole, Belfort, Lausanne, Vevay, and Martigny, time, 30 hours; fare, $21. Paris to St. Gall, via Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, and Zurich; time, 21 h. 20 m.; fare, $16 80. Paris to St. Maurice, via Dijon, Dole, Lausanne, Vevay, and Villeneuve; time, 16 hours; fare, $15. Paris to St. Moritz (Baths), in the Engadine, via Dole, Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, Zurich, and Coire, diligence thence in 13 hours; time, 36 hours; fare (if by diligence), $21 60. A carriage, with two horses, four places, from Coire, will cost $25. The diligence fare is $3 50 each place. Paris to St. Petersburg, via Cologne, Berlin, Dirschau, K6nigsberg, and Vilna; time, 79 h. 30 m.; fare, $61 28. Mixed ticket, first class to Cologne and second to St. Petersburg, $52 35. Paris to St. Quentin, via Creil and Noyon; time, 3 hours; fare, $3 80. Paris to St. Sebastian, via Orleans, Bor deaux, Bayonne, and Irun; time, 19 hours; fare, $20 65. Paris to Suez, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Brindisi, and Alexandria; time, 6 days; fare, $90. By the Messageries Maritimes' steamers, sailing from Marseilles, the time is longer and more expensive. Paris to Thun, via Dijon, Dole, Pontailier, and Berne; time, 15 h. 45 m.; fare, $15 40. Paris to Toledo, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Bayonne, and Madrid; time, 39 hours; fare, $37 58. Paris to Toplitz, via Cologne, Hanover, Magdeburg, Leipzig, and Dresden; time, 30 hours; fare, $28 75. Paris to Toulon, via Dijon, Lyons, and Marseilles; time, 19 hours; fare, $22 81. Paris to Tours, via Bretigny, Chateaudun, and Vendome; time, 5 h. 39 m.; fare, $5 76. Paris to Treves, via Epernay, Rheims, Mezieres, Sedan, and Luxembourg; time, 13 h. 30 m.; fare, $11 23. Paris to Trieste, via Mont Cenis, Milan, and Venice; time, 39 hours; fare, $36 20. Paris to Turin, via Mont Cenis and Susa; time, 21 hours; fare, $20 56. Paris to Ulm, via Nancy, Avricourt, Strasbourg, and Stuttgart; time, 21 h. 30 m.; fare, $15 40. Paris to Utrecht, via Mons, Brussels, Antwerp, and Rotterdam; time, 14 h. 10 m.; fare, $11 60. Paris to Valencia, Spain, via Bayonne, Burgos, and Madrid; time, 47 h. 30 m.; fare, $47 34. Paris to Valladolid, via Bordeaux, Bayonne, Irun, and Burgos; time, 17 hours; fare, $30 05. Paris to Varna, via Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, Pesth, and steamer to Rustchuk; by railway thence to Varna; time, 87 hours; fare, $89 80. Or via Messina, the Dardanelles, and Constantinople, by the Messageries Maritimes' steamers from Marseilles; time, 8 days; fare, $101 20. The steamers of the Danube Steam Navigation Company do not run during the winter. Paris to Venice, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Milan, and Verona; time, 31 h. 30 m.; fare, $30 85. Paris to Verona, via Mont Cenis, Turin, Milan, and Bergamo; time, 28 hours; fare, $28 06. 41 THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS. Paris to Vevay, via Dijon, Dole, Pontar- Stuttgart, and Munich; time, 36 hours; lier, and Lausanne; time, 16 hours; fare, fare, $22 80. $14 30. Paris to Zurich, via Dole, Pontarlier, and Paris to Vicenza, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Neufchatel; time, 21 hours; fare, $15 70. Turin,Milan, and Verona; time, 8 h. 41 m.; The above fares, corrected down to the fare, $29 23. spring of 1880, are contained in no other Paris to Vichy, via Fontainebleau, Ne- guide-book extant. The time is calculated mours, Nevers, and St.Germain de FossBs; at the ordinaryrate of speed. Some seasons time, 8 h. 34 m.; fare, $8 95. extraordinary quick trains run on several Paris to Vienna, via Nancy, Strasbourg, of the lines, which may modify the time. 42 GREAT BRITAIN HISTORY. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. THE history of England is already too familiar to the enlightened mind to render it necessary to enter into it at length; but as it is the intention to prelude each country with some few historical remarks, the rule will be applicable here also. The present mixed population of the British Isles has been the result of the different nations who have successively become their conquerors. The universal opinion of all ancient writers is that the first inhabitants were some wandering tribes of Gauls, who followed the religion of the Druids, and polluted their worship by the practice of human sacrifice. At the time of the invasion of the Romans, they found the same language and the same form of government as existed among the Celts of the Continent. The Romans who landed at Deal, under Julius Caesar, in the year 55 B.C., were succeeded by the Saxons, afterward by the Danes under Canute, the Normans under William the Conqueror in 1066. The original Celts mostly inhabit the Highlands of Scotland, Wales, and a greater portion of Ireland; the Anglo-Saxon race, of Germanic descent, between whom and the former the leading distinction now exists, inhabit the Lowlands of Scotland and the whole of England. The island first became familiar to the Romans by the Gaelic name of Albin, by which name only is it known among the Gaels of Scotland. The population of Great Britain and Ireland was estimated in 1871 of 33,450,237. Its manufactures and commerce are unequaled by any country in the world. Lancashire contains many very extensive cotton-mills, employing a great number of hands. Its manufactures of wool and iron are also very large. The iron-works where the ore is reduced into metal are situated in Staffordshire, but the iron manufacture has its chief seat in Birmingham. Sheffield is chiefly celebrated for its cutlery, and London for its silver-plated goods. Wool reigns supreme in Yorkshire and the west of England. The form of government is a limited monarchy, the succession to the throne hereditary. The legislative power is shared by the Houses of Lords and Commons. The House of Lords consists of peers, whose titles and seats are hereditary, also bishops aid'arch. bishops, and Scottish peers elected for the duration of the Parliament. Accordina to the Royal Calendar of 1869, the House of Lords was composed of 5 peers of the blood royal, 21 dukes, 22 marquises, 132 earls, 31 viscounts 265 barons, 16 Scottish peers, 28 Irish peers', elected for 4ife, 28 bishops and archbishops-in all, 548 members. The Lord Chancellor, by virtue of his office, is president of the chamber. The House of Commons is composed of members elected by certain classes of the population, and is similar to our Ho use of Representatives. It numbers 658 members: 493 from England and Wales, 105 from Ireland,,and 60 from Scotland.. The House of Commons votes all supplies of money, but,,all laws, must have the consent of both houses. The President or Speaker of the House of Commons is elected at the opening of each Parliament. The Cabinet or Ministry is generally formed of the leading members of the majority in both Houses of Parliament, the Premier or First Lord of the, Treasury, Secretaries of the Home Office.Foreign Office, etc. __ The House of.Lords is the highest court of justice in the kingdoin, which is the same as the Court of Appeals. Next in order is the High Court of Chancery, which is presided over by the Lord Ili h Chancellor. Three inferior courts succeed these, over which, preside Vice-Chancellors, then Master of the'Rolls, then the three Tribunals of Commercial Law, viz., Queen's Bench, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. Under Augustine the Christian religion made rapid progress, and although all forms of worship are tolerated, the Protestant Episcopal Church, or Church of England, is the government form, under the direction of two archbishops and twenty-six bishops. The seats of the two archbishops are Canterbury and York. The established -Church of Scotland, is Tresbyterian. There are also followers of tbe Church of England in both, Scotland and Ireland, al-, though in the latter the 'Roman Catholic religion predominates. AND IRELAND.] GOVERNMENT. of Lords and Commons. The House of Lords consists of peers, whose titles and seats are hereditary, also bishops andarchbishops, and Scottish peers elected for the duration of the Parliament. According to the Royal Calendar of 1869, the House of Lords was composed of 5 peers of the blood royal, 21 dukes, 22 marquises, 132 earls, 31 viscounts, 265 barons, 16 Scottish peers, 28 Irish peers, elected for life, 28 bishops and archbishops-in all, 548 members. The Lord Chancellor, by virtue of his office, is president of the chamber. The House of Commons is composed of members elected by certain classes of the population, and is similar to our House of Representatives. It numbers 658 members: 493 from England and Wales, 105 from Ireland, and 60 from Scotland. The House of Commons votes all supplies of money, but all laws must have the consent of both houses. The President or Speaker of the House of Commons is elected at the opening of each Parliament. The Cabinet or Ministry is generally formed of the leading members of the majority in both Houses of Parliament, the Premier or First Lord of the Treasury, Secretaries of the Home Office,. Foreign Office, etc. The House of Lords is the highest court of justice in the kingdom, which is the same as the Court of Appeals. Next in order is the High Court of Chancery, which is presided over by the Lord High Chancellor. Three inferior courts succeed these, over which preside Vice-Chancellors, then Master of the Rolls, then the three Tribunals of Commercial Law, viz., Queen's Bench, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. Under Augustine the Christian religion nade rapid progress, and although all forms of worship are tolerated, the Protestant Episcopal Church, or Church of England, is the government form, under the direction of two archbishops and twenty-six bishops. The seats of the two archbishops are Canterbury and York. The established Church of Scotland is Presbyterian. There are also followers of the Church of England in both Scotland and Ireland, although in the latter the Roman Catholic religion predominates. 43 DOMINIONS. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] PRODUCTIONS, The British Islands comprise in all nearly five thousand. Most of them, however, are uninhabited rocks. The two principal islands -England, Scotland, and Wales, and Ireland-contain about 116,339 square miles; the first mentioned 83,826, and Ireland 32,513. The other members of the British archipelago, viz., the Shetland Islands, the Orkney Islands, the Hebrides, Isle of Man, Isle of Anglesey, Scilly Islands, Isle of Wight, and the Channel Islands, consisting of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark, which form a belt parallel to the coast of France, make the aggregate 121,115 square miles, with a population in 1877 at 33,450,237. The population of the empire, however, including its dependencies in various portions of the globe, amounts in all to 237,392,003-the population of India alone amounting to 193,259,589, other colonies andpossessions, in the vicinity of 12,000,000. There is no country in Europe whose population increases so rapidly as that of Great Britain and Ireland. During the last 58 years the United States alone received over 5,000,000 of its inhabitants, all other countries about 3,000,000. The annual emigration to the United States is now about 200,000. The British Islands are surrounded by offsets of the Atlantic Ocean. Between the main-land on the east is the North Sea; farther south the German Ocean, which divides England from the Low Countries; to the south of which is the English Channel, which divides England from France, the iand's nearest approach being at the Straits of Dover, separating the town of Dover, in England, from Calais in France, the distance being about twenty miles. To the south of England lies the English Channel, while to the west lies St. George's Channel and the Irish Sea, which divide Great Britain from Ireland, the nearest ap-proach being between Fairhead, in Ireland, and Cantire, in Scotland, a distance of about sixteen miles. The shortest distance between Ireland and England is by Holyhead, sixty-four miles. The climate of Great blritain and Ireland is more uniform and milder than that experienced on the Continent in the same degrees of latitude, resulting from the equalizing influences of the surrounding seas, the western sides of both the islands being invariably warmer. 44 - The vegetable productions-of the Brit. ish Islands are those which belong to the north temperate zone. Wheat can be culti. vated as far north as the fifty-eighth parallel, beyond which line only barley, rye, and oats come to perfection. In the southern portion of England, the elm, beech, maple, and chestnut attain the highest state of perfection; while to the north, in rich abundance, may be found the oak, birch, elm, alder, hazel, yew, willow, ash, and blackthorn. In Scotland, the alder, birch, poplar, Scotch fir, and mountain ash are the principal productions. The carnivorous order of quadrupeds, such as the wolf, bear, and wild boar, do not exist in the British Islands. The fox, which is preserved for hunting, is quite rare, and the badger and otter have almost disappeared. The wild cat, however, may be found both in the north of England and Ireland. There are also some of the wild ox still remaining, which, with other rumii. nating animals, such as the red deer, the roebuck, and the fallow deer, may be seen in some of the parks of the nobility. The birds of Great Britain are very numerous, comprising nearly half the entire species found in Europe. The principal game birds are the grouse, partridge, woodcock, snipe, and pheasant, while the warbling tribe consists of the nightingale, thrush, blackbird, skylark, linnet, goldfinch, and wren. The birds of prey are confined to falcon, hawk, golden eagle, and white eagle. This last is rarely seen, except in the Hebrides, Shetland, or Orkney Islands. Of the thirteen species of reptiles to be found in the British Islands, only five are indigenous to Ireland. Neither are there any snakes to be found in the last-named country. Of the mineral resources of Great Britain, its coal-fields alone extend over four thousand square miles; while iron, copper, tin, and lead are found in great abundance. The mineral springs of England are to be found at Epsom (salt), Cheltenham (salt), Clifton (salt), Leamington, Bath, Buxton, and Matlock. The principal chalybeate or iron springs are Great Malvern (one of the most lovely spots in England for either summer or winter residence), Tunbridge Wells, Brighton, Cheltenham, -Scarborough, Harrowgate, VERR;ONS. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] QUEEN VICTORIA. add Leamington. The waters of the last two, as also those of Cheltenham, are in a degree sulphurous. There are warm springs also at Clifton (near Bristol), Bath, Matlock, Buxton, Sakewell, and Stoney Middleton. After the four kingdoms of Essex,Wessex, Sussex, and Kent were united in 827 A.D., the following is a chronological list of the different monarchs, comprised in eight dynasties: KINGS AND QUEENS OF ENGLAND. SAXONS. A.). Egbert............. 827 Ethelwolf............................ 836 Ethelbald............................ 858 Ethelbert........................ 860 Ethelred I........................... 866 Alfred the Great................. 87 Edward I.................. 00 Athelstane......................... 925 Edmond I........................... 941 Fdred.............................. 946 Edwvy............................... 955 Edgar............................. 957 Saint Edward.................. 975 Ethelred I.......................... 979 SAXONS AND DANES. Sweyn (Dane)....................... 1013 Ethelred............................ 1014 Edmond II..................... 1016 Canute the Great................ 1017 Harold I............................ 1035 Harde C(anute....................... 1040 Edward the Cotfessor................ 1042 Harold II........................... 1066 William the Conqueror.............. 1066 W illiam II.......................... 1087 Henry I............................ 1100 Stephen (Itienne)................... 1135 PrLANTAGENETS (ANJOU). Henry................... 1154 Richard (Coeur de Lion)............ 1189 John (Lackland).................... 1199 Henry III......................... 1216 Edward I................. 1272 Edward IT........... 1307 Edward II........................ 1327 Richard II.......................... 1377 Henry IV.......................... 1399 Henry V.................... 1413 HenTI V~l.......................... 1422 Edward IV.......................... 1461 Edward V................. 1483 Richard III......................... 1483 IOUSE OF TUDOR. Henry VII......................... 145 Henry VIII........................ 1509 Edward VI................... 1547 Jane Grey.................... 1553 Mary....................... 1553 Elizabeth........................... 1558 IHOUSE OF STUART. James T.Fi...... jrlC hnmes I........................... l Charles I........................... 1625 A. D. Interreknum.................. 1649-1652 Oliver Cromwell (Protector)....:..... 402 Richard Cromwell.......... 1615& RESTORATION OP THE STUARTS. Charles 11.......................... 1660 James 11............................ 1685 HOUSE OF ORANGE AND STUART. William Ill., Prince of orange, and Mary............................ 1 C- 8,) Anne............................... 1702 HOUSE OF BRUNSWICYL George I............................ 1T14 George 11........................... 1T27 George Ill.......................... IT60 George IV.............. 182( William IV.......... 1830 Victoria...............:............. 183-T The present sovereign so universally admired as a wife, mother, and queen, is the daughter of Prince Edward, Duke of Kent fourth son of George 111. and his wife, the Princess Marie Louise Victoria 'daughter of Francis, Duke of Saxe-Saalfeld-60 -burg. Born the 24th of May, 1819, she as-' cended the throne at tfie age of eighteen, was crowned the following year (June.28, 1838), and on the 10th of February, 1840, was married to Francois Albert Auguste Charles Emmanuel, Duke of Saxe, Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (born the 26th of August, 1819) naturalized by an Act of Parliament the 24th of January, 1840, received the title of Prince Consort the 25th of June, 1857, and died the 14th of December, 1861, since which time the queen has lived much in retirement. The Prince Consort left nine children: 11 The Princess Victoria, Adelaide Marie Louise, born the 21st of November, 1840; married the 25th of January, 1858, to Frederick William, then Crown-Prince of Prussia, now Prince Imperial of.the German Empire, and heir to the throne. 2. 'Prince-Royal. Albert Edward, born November' 9,`1841, Prince'of Wale'& Duke of Saxe, Duke -of Cornwall 'and Rothesay'?, Count of Chester,, Count of Carrick and of D-tiblin, Baron Renfrew, Lor 'd of the, Isles, Grand Steward of Scotland, and General in the British Army - married March 10, 1863, to the Princess AlexanidyidCar'oline Maria Charlotte Louise Julia, born December 1 ' 1844, daughter of Christian IX., King of - Denmark, by whom heh" five children, two princes and three princesses 8. Princess Alice Mathilde Maria;, DuchesS of SaxejornApril 25,1848. and mar.) A.D. Interregnum................... 1649-1652 Oliver Cromwell (Protector)......... 1652 Richard Cromwell ".......... 1658 RESTORATION OF THE STUARTS. Charles II........................ 1660 James II............................ 1685 HOUSE OF ORANOE AND STUART. William II., Prince of Orange, and Mary............................ 1683 Anne............................... 1702 HOUSE OF BRUNSWICK. George I............................ 1 14 George I. 1714 George II.......................... 1727 George III......................... 1760 George IV................... 1820 W illiam IV......................... 1830 Victoria............................ 1837 The present sovereign, so universally admired as a wife, mother, and queen, is the daughter of Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, fourth son of George III. and his wife, the Princess Marie Louise Victoria, daughter of Francis, Duke of Saxe-Saalfeld-Coburg. Born the 24th of May, 1819, she ascended the throne at the age of eighteen, was crowned the following year (June 28, 1838), and on the 10th of February, 1840, was married to Francois Albert Auguste Charles Emmanuel, Duke of Saxe, Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (born the 26th of August, 1819), naturalized by an Act of Parliament the 24th of January, 1840, received the title of Prince Consort the 25th of June, 1857, and died the 14th of December, 1861, since which time the queen has lived much in retirement. The Prince Consort left nine children: 1. The Princess Victoria Adelaide Marie Louise, born the 21st of November, 1840; married the 25th of January, 1858, to Frederick William, then Crown-Prince of Prussia, now Prince Imperial of the German Empire, and heir to the throne. 2. Prince-Royal Albert Edward, born November 9, 1841, Prince of Wales, Duke of Saxe, Duke of Cornwall and Rothesay, Count of Chester, Count of Carrick and of D.ublin, Baron Renfrew, Lord of the Isles, Grand Steward of Scotland, and General in the British Army; married March 10, 1863, to the Princess Alexandria Caroline Maria Charlotte Louise Julia, born December 1, 1844, daughter of Christian IX., King of Denmark, by whom he has five children, two princes and three princesses. 3. Princess Alice Mathilde Maria; Duchess of Saxe, born April 25, 184, and mar., 45 ARMY AND NAVY. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] ROUTES, ried July 1, 1862, to Frederick William Louis, Prince of Hesse-Darmstadt. 4. Prince Alfred Ernest Albert, Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Saxe, Count of Ulster and of Kent, born August 6, 1844, Captain in the.Royal Navy; married, January 23, 1874, to Maria Alexandrovna, GrandDuchess, daughter of the Emperor of all the Russias, Alexander II., by whom he has one prince, born October 15, 1874, at Buckingham Palace, London. 5. Princess Helene Auguste Victoria, Duchess of Saxe, born May 24, 1846; married July 5, 1866, to Christian, Prince of Schleswig- Holstein- Sonderbourg- Augustenbourg. 6. Princess Louise Caroline Alberte, Duchess of Saxe, born March 18, 1848; married March 22, 1871, to John Douglas Sutherland, Marquis of Lorne, eldest son of the Duke of Argyle. 7. Prince Arthur William Patrick Albert, Duke of Saxe, born May 1, 1850, Lieutenant of Engineers. 8. Prince Leopold George Duncan Albert, Duke of Saxe, born April 7,1853. 9. Princess Beatrice Maria Victoria Feodore, Duchess of Saxe, born April 14,1857. THE ARMY. The regular troops in the United Kingdom and Colonies amount to about 135,000 men and 15,000 horses, and those in India to 63,000. The militia amount to 134,000 men, the yeomanry (cavalry) to 15,000, and the corps of volunteers to 199,000. There is also a body of men under military organization called pensioners. In Ireland there is a corps of police under military organization, consisting of 13,000 men with 400 horses. THE NAVY. The effective force of the British Navy is 383 vessels, of these 40 are iron-clads of different classes, and 60,000 men. Continual changes, however, are being made. THE RAILWAYS. Railroads will be found in nearly every direction in Great Britain, and the beauties of the country may be seen without leaving this highway. First-class railway traveling has for many years been higher than in other countries, but the Grand Midland, on January 1, 1875, reduced the price to 46 one penny half-penny, or three cents per mile first class, abolishing the second class entirely. This will bring it nearly to the same rate as traveling in the United States, and about forty per cent. cheaper than traveling first class on the Continent. Great Britain had the first railway in the world, viz., 38 miles, opened in 1825, increased in 1830 to 86 miles. It had at the end of 1871 15,288 miles. The United States had opened in 1827 three miles, and at the end of 1871 62,647, or nearly equal to all of Europe combined, which had at the end of 1871 69,546 miles open for traffic. IRELAND. We would most decidedly recommend travelers who intend visiting Ireland and Scotland to disembark at Queenstown, the harbor of Cork, visit the celebrated lakes of Killarney, and go north through Dublin, Belfast, and Coleraine, cross the North Channel to Glasgow, visit the principal places in Scotland, and then work up to London, visiting the principal objects of interest on their way. We advise this course for two reasons-first, there is nothing they will find on the Continent more lovely or picturesque than the beautiful lakes of Killarney, or, indeed, we may say, the whole south and west of Ireland, while there is little on the Continent that can compare with Scottish scenery, which ought to be visited; and, second, if this, route be taken, it will save time and expense, and insure the trip's being made, as, nine times out of ten, travelers intending to visit Ireland and Scotland never get there if they proceed direct to the Continent: they always intend coming back by Ireland, but never do. The trip is one the tourist will never regret, and a hasty tour of the principal places in Ireland may be made in ten days. Presuming the traveler will adopt this course, we will commence our description of Great Britain and Ireland with Ireland. ROUTES. 1. Queenstown to Cork, and excursions in the vicinity, p. 50. 2. Cork to Bantry, via Bandon, p. 53. 3. Cork to Kenmare and Killarney, via Macroon, p. 54. ROUTES. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] ROUTES. 4. Cork to the Lakes of Killarney, by rail, 24. Dublin to Sligo, via Mullingar, Carvia Mallow Junction, p. 55. rick, and Boyle, p. 88. 5. Cork to Youghal and Blackwater River 25. Sligo to Londonderry, via Ballyshanto Fermoy, and return via Mallow, p. 55. non, Donegal, and Strabane, p. 88. 6. Killarney with its Excursions, and Tra- 26. Dublin to Ballyshannon, via Mullee, p. 59. lingar, Cavan, Clones, and Enniskillen, p. 7. Cork to Limerick, via Kilmallock, p. 90. 62. 27. Dublin to Londonderry, via Mullin8. Limerick to Tralee, by steamer down gar, Clones, Omagh, and Strabane, p. 91. the Lower Shannon, via Beigh, Foynes, 28. Dublin to Belfast, via Drogheda and Glin, Tarbert, and Kilrush, p. 64. Dundalk, p. 91. 9. Limerick to Waterford, via Limerick 29. Dublin to Kingstown, and excursions Junction, Tipperary, and Clonmel, p. 65. in the vicinity, p. 93. 10. Cork to Dublin, via Mallow, Kilmal- 30. Dundalk to Enniskillen, via Castlelock, Maryborough, and Kildare, p. 67. Blayney and Clones, p. 94. 11. Waterford to Dublin, via Kilkenny 31. Belfast to Londonderry, via Antrim and Maryborough, p. 71. and Coleraine (branch to Portrush and 12. Wexford to Dublin, via Carlow and Giant's Causeway), p. 94. Kildare, p. 73..32. Beyfast to Enniskillen, via Portadown, 13. Wexford to Dublin, via Arklow and Armagh, and Clones, p. 95. Wicklow, p. 74. 33. Newry to Belfast, via Rostrever, New14. Cork to Wexford, p. 77. castle, and Downpatrick, p. 95. 15. Limerick to Boyle, via Ennis, Tuam, 34. Drogheda to Belfast, via Navan, Kells, Dunmore, and Castlereagh, p. 78. and Oldcastle, p. 97. 16. Limerick toDublin, via Roscrea, Mary- 35. Coleraine to Belfast, by the Great borough, and Kildare, p. 79. Coast Road, via the Giant's Causeway and 17. Limerick to A thlone, via Lough Derg Ballycastle, p. 98. and the River Shannon, p. 80. All the routes of any importance are 18. Killarney to Kenmare, via Valentia, given above. To make them all will ocand Waterville, p. 81. cupy two months. A ten days' trip would 19. Dublin to Galway, via Mullingar, Ath- be landing at Queenstown, Cork and exlone, and Ballinasloe, p. 82. cursions, Blarney, Youghal, Killarney by 20. Galway to Clifden, via Oughterard rail, excursions, rail to Dublin, Belfast, and Ballinahinch, p. 83. the Giant's Causeway, Londonderry, and 21. Dublin to Westport, viaMullingar, Ath- steamer to Glasgow. lone, Roscommon, Castlereagh, and Castle- After reading a description of the differbar, p. 84. ent objects of interest described in the 22. Westport to Galway, via Ballinrobe " Guide," the traveler will decide what he and Headford, p. 86. prefers to see, and will know the length of 23. Westport to Leenaea and the Killery, time he wishes to devote to this interesting p. 87. country. 47 GEOGRAPHY. [IRELAND.] GEOGRAPHT. THE island of Ireland is, from point to point, 300 miles long by 200 wide; on three sides-the north, west, and south-it is bounded by the waters of the Atlantic, and on the east by the Irish Sea, which communicates with the Atlantic on the northeast by the North Channel (separating Scotland and Ireland), 14 miles wide, and on the southeast by St. George's Channel (separating Ireland and Wales), 70 miles wide. The island possesses an area of about 32,513 square miles, which presents mostly a level surface, the mountains being confined to regions near the coasts. A great plain stretches from Galway Bay on the west to Dublin Bay on the east, extending northward as far as Lough Neagh, and southward nearly to the borders of Waterford. A large portion of this plain is composed of bog-land, which is very extensive in Ireland, covering about 12,500 square miles, or nearly two fifths of the entire surface of the island. These bogs are of two kindsthe red and fibrous, or the black and compact-and are readily susceptible of drainage, as they lie in every case at some level above the elevation of the sea. The red bogs are the most numerous, and are found for the greater part in the central plain; they are capable of being reclaimed for cultivation, and now furnish an abundance of peat, the fuel mostly used by the people of Ireland. The mountains of Ireland, instead of forming continuous chains, stand in detached groups at different parts of the coast, separating the interior plain from the sea. None of these reach to any great height, the highest (Macgillicuddy's Reeks, Lake Killarney) attaining only an altitude of 3413 feet. They may be divided into six groups: three on the eastern coast, the mountains of Wicklow, Mourne, and Antrim; on the northwest, the mountains of Donegal; on the west, the mountains of Connemara; and on the southwest, the mountains of Kerry. The most prominent capes along the coast of Ireland, beginning on the north, and proceeding in a westerly direction, are: Malin Head, Horn Head, Rossan Point, Erris Head, Achill Head, Slyne Head, Loop Head, Kerry Head, Dunmore Head, Mizen Head, Cape Clear, Carnsore Point, Greenore 48 Point, Cahore Point, Howth Head, Benmore Head, and Bengore Head. Not far from the last is the Giant's Causeway, of world-wide fame, an immense promontory formed of huge piles of prismatic columns, arranged with a most perfect regularity side by side, and projecting more than a thousand feet into the sea. The word lough in Ireland, like that of loch in Scotland, is applied equally to saltwater inlets or to inland lakes. Of the former, the principal ones on the northern coast are Loughs Foyle and Swilly; on the western coast, Donegal Bay, ClewBay, GalwayBay, the Shannon's Mouth, Dingle Bay, Kenmare Bay, and Bantry Bay; on the south, the harbors of Cork and Waterford, the former being capable of navigation by ships of the largest size; and on the east, Dublin, Dundalk, and Dundrum Bays, and Strangford and Belfast Loughs. No country in Europe possesses so large an area of fresh-water lakes, in proportion to its size, as Ireland. Lough Neagh, in the province of Ulster, is one of the three largest in Europe, and has an area of over 90,000 acres. The other principal lakes are the Corrib, Erne, Allen, Ree, Derg, Mask, and Killarney. The last-named, situated in the mountains of Kerry, are three in number, an Upper, Lower, and Middle Lake, covering an area of about 6000 acres, and are highly celebrated for their picturesque scenery. Rivers.-The principal river in Ireland, as well as the largest in the United Kingdom, is the Shannon, which measures from its source in the County of Cavan, at a height of.345 feet above the level of the sea, to its mouth, a distance of 224 miles, passing on its course through the lakes Allen, Ree, and Derg. It has been made navigable from Lough Allen to the sea, 213 miles, by means of a few artificial cuts, one of which was made to avoid the rapids of Doonas, just above Limerick. The River Suck, on the right bank, is its principal tributary. The other principal rivers of Ireland are, on the north, the Bann and Foyle; to the east, the Slaney, Liffey, Boyne, and Lagan; and to the south, the Bandon, Lee, Blackwater, Barrow, and Suir. Of these the Barrow ranks second in length and importance; the Liffey, upon 0 e * I tj 1 t CLIMATE. [IRELAND]. CONVEYANCES. which Dublin stands, is not navigable; the Lee, although draining an extensive tract of land, and discharging its waters into Cork Harbor, is not navigable above Cork. The Barrow and Suir rise in the Slievebloom Mountains, and unite in Waterford Harbor; the former is navigable as far as Athy, a distance of sixty miles, and the latter as far as Clonmel, forty miles up the stream. Minerals.-Although coaloccurs in many parts of Ireland, it is comparatively little worked, being of inferior quality to that found in Scotland and England, and the principal towns being consequently supplied from those countries. Peat, as before stated, is the exclusive fuel of the laboring population. Iron is to be found in many places, but is not worked, owing to the scarcity of coal; while the produce of the copper and lead mines, in the counties of Cork, Kerry, and Waterford, is not considerable. Granite, marble, and slate also occur to some extent. Mineral springs are not numerous, but may be found at Mallow, the water of which is saline; at Castle Connell, near Limerick, chalybeate; and at Swanlinbar and Lucan, sulphurous. Climate.-The climate of Ireland is much more moist than that of England, and the temperature has a more equal sway, the extremes of heat and cold being confined within narrower limits. The air is at all times filled with moisture, while the average number of days upon which rain falls is greater than in any country in Europe (208 days annually). The beautiful verdant aspect for which Ireland is so celebrated is the result of this humidity, which is caused by the insular situation of the country, as well as by the prevalence of westerly winds, which sweep over the island during three fourths of the year, leaving on their way the vapors of the Atlantic with which they are charged. Ireland was formerly covered with extensive forests, traces of which may still be found in the numerous bogs, where whole trunks of trees are often discovered. These forests, however, have now almost entirely been cut down, and wood is comparatively scarce. Plants and animals are mostly similar to those found in Great Britain, but fruits, such as peaches, grapes, etc., do not ripen as in other countries, VOL. I.-C except with the greatest care and attention. Ireland is divided into four provincesMunster, Connaught, Leinster, and Ulster -and into thirty-two counties. It contains a population of nearly 6,000,000, a decrease of 2,000,000 in the last twenty years, and is governed by a lord-lieutenant appointed by the Crown of England. Its situation, both financially and commercially, has greatly improved during the last fifteen years. Linen is now the staple manufacture of Ireland, and, together with the well-known Irish poplins, is produced in large quantities for foreign use. Woolens, silks, cottons, muslin, gloves, paper, and glass are also manufactured to a greater or less extent. Ireland is becoming well supplied with railroads, there being some twenty lines in full operation, extending from the extreme north and south, and east and west. In every direction not taken by railroads, good jaunting-cars may be procured at the rate of twelve cents per mile for a single person, or sixteen cents for two. The roads are all very fine, and, to the honor of the country, no tolls. The jaunting-cars are mostly made for the accommodation of four persons, but there are larger ones which serve as stage-coaches. In procuring seats, be particular to inform yourself from what quarter the wind is blowing, as these conveyances are uncovered, and, should the weather be cold or rainy, you may prefer sitting with your back to the wind. A thin water-proof coat and apron are very requisite on these occasions; also a strap with which to attach yourself to the car during the night in case you should fall asleep. We would most decidedly recommend travelers who intend visiting Ireland and Scotland to disembark at Queenstown, the harborof Cork,visiting the celebrated lakes of Killarney and the wild scenery of Connemara, then going north through Dublin, Belfast, and Coleraine, cross the Channel to Glasgow, visit the principal places in Scotland, and afterward work up to London, visiting the principal objects of interest on their way. After being landed by the tug which meets the steamer to take off passengers and mails, proceed at once to the railway for Cork-only twelve miles distant-and 49 QUEENSTOWN. [IRELAND.] CORK, go to the Imperial Hotel. Avoid a place called the Queen's Hotel, at Queenstown. Queenstown was formerly called the "Cove of Cork," but its name was changed in honor of Queen Victoria, who landed here when making her visit to Ireland in 1849. Population 10,340. It is six miles distant from Cork, for which city it forms one of the finest harbors in the United Kingdom, or even in the world. The entire navies of Europe could float in it with complete protection from the weather on every side. The entrance is admirably defended by two forts, one on either side of the channel. There is also the Westmoreland Fort on Spike's Island, which contains a convict prison; the inmates, numbering nearly one thousand, are kept continually at work on the forts. An order from the governor is required by travelers wishing to visit the island. Rocky Island contains the gunpowder, ten thousand barrels of which are kept in chambers excavated out of the solid rock. An order from the commandant of ordnance is required to visit this island. Hawlbowline Island contains a tank capable of holding five thousand tuns of fresh water. No order necessary here. The harbor of Cork is noted principally for its beautiful scenery, and the town is becoming quite important as a watering-place on account of the salubrity and equality of the climate. The harbor is also celebrated for the number of regattas which take place annually. The splendid Inman line of steamers are arriving and departing four times a week for New York. To the west of the town there is a beautiful promenade formed from a substantial quay erected in 1848. It was into this harbor that Admiral Drake, of the British navy, retreated when chased by the Spaniards; then into "' Drake's Pool," up a creek called Crosshaven, where he was so effectually hidden that the Spaniards, after several days' search, gave him up in despair, thinking he must have reached the Channel again by magic. Steamers leave Queenstown several times per day for Cork. Although the scenery is very beautiful on the river, we advise taking the cars, which leave nearly every hour for Cork. Steamers sail three times a day to Agha60 da and Cloyne, where travelers who have time to spare can visit the Castle of Rostellan, the former residence of the princely O'Briens, marquesses of Thomond. In the modern residence, which is beautifully situated at the eastern end of the harbor, is kept the ancient sword of the famous Brian Boroihme, who was an ancestor of the O'Briens. The grounds are very beautiful, and visitors are freely admitted. A visit should be made to Castle Mary, the residence of Mr. Longfield, where may be seen one of those Druidical remains peculiar to Ireland, and known as "Cromlechs," supposed by some to have been used as sepulchral monuments, and by others for sacrificial purposes. There are two cromlechs on this estate: the larger one is a stone fifteen feet long, eight broad, and three thick, one end resting on the ground and the other supported by two upright stones; the smaller one is of a triangular shape, and of the same inclination. It is supposed the inclined position was given that the blood of the victims slain upon them might run off freely. There are some to be seen in Wales, and, as in Ireland, they are generally seen near the sea. Cloyne, about one mile from Castle Mary, is noted for its ancient cathedral of the 14th century, and its round tower, one of the antiquities of Ireland, which was used for the double purpose of a belfry and for safety and defense. The height of this tower is one hundred feet, but the embattlements, which are ten feet high, are modern. ROUTE No. 1. Queenstown to Cork, and excursions in the vicinity. The distance from Queenstown to Cork is twelve miles, and may be performed either direct by rail, or by steamer, calling at Monkstown, Passage, and Blackrock. The distance may be done by rail in half an hour, while the steamer requires an hour. As the railroad runs parallel with and near the river, no advantages of scenery are lost by taking the quicker route. Cork is a city of ancient origin, dating back to the ninth century, when the Danes invaded and held it in possession until it was taken by the English under Henry II. in the twelfth century. It was then under the rule of Dermot M'Carthy, prince of COIRK I -N ow U 5& IIKI.14 S77- -- -fA a -or -e "50".:,g., 77MURL z;, I El. 4 i.P HIfaiver's I I I i CORK. [IRELAND.] CORK. Desmond. For several centuries the invaders were greatly harassed by the neighboring chiefs, and in their turn retaliated on the surrounding country. During the wars of the Protectorate, 1649, Cork took the side of the ill-fated Charles, but was surprised and captured. The cruelties then perpetrated by Cromwell upon the poor citizens are almost unparalleled in the annals of warfare. It was again besieged for five days by Marlborough in the reign of William III. Cork contains at the present time 78,642 inhabitants. The principal hotel, and the best in the south of Ireland, is the Imperial, finely conducted by Mr. Curry. Attached to the house are the City Reading-rooms, to which visitors at the hotel are freely admitted. The city is situated on both banks of the River Lee, which is crossed by nine bridges, all of modern construction and elegant architecture. The principal streets and suburbs are well paved and lighted, but the back and narrow streets are generally in a poor condition. It was formerly the second city in Ireland in size and commerce, but Belfast now takes that place. There are no manufactures of importance in Cork, but its breweries, distilleries, tanneries, and founderies do a large business, while its expert to England of corn, provisions, and livestock is considerable. A large business in the butter-trade is also carried on. The principal public buildings of Cork are the small cathedral church of St. Fillbar, which is unworthy the reputation of Cork, with the exception of the tower, which is ancient. It was built in 1735. It is, however, soon to be replaced by a new cathedral. Near it are the bishop's palace, and cemetery. At the western end of the Grand Parade is the court-house, which is much admired for its graceful appearance. The Church of St. Anne is remarkable for its magnificent position, commanding as it does a fine view of the whole city. Its bells are one of the " lions" of the city. Its appearance is very picturesque and very droll, one side built of different colored stone from the other. It is built in stories. James II. heard mass here during his residence in Cork. On the northern side of the river there is a very beautiful Presbyterian church. The Church of the Holy Trinity is a handsome Gothic building, interesting from the fact that it was founded by Father Mathew, the temperance apostle, whose visit to the United States many of our travelers must remember, and whom all must revere, not only for the good he has done in his native country, but also in our own. (We have noticed in traveling through Ireland that the most careful drivers, and those in whom their employers have the greatest confidence, are disciples of Father Mathew, and have drank neither ale nor spirits for twenty years.) The church contains a finely-stained glass window, as a memorial to Daniel O'Connell. A fine monument has recently been erected to Father Mathew in St. Patrick Street. The interior of the Roman Catholic church of St. Mary's is very beautiful. There is also a church built in honor of St. Patrick. The City Jail and County Prison are both very fine buildings, the former built of limestone and the latter of red sandstone. On the southern side of the Lee, on a fine, elevated position, is situated the beautiful building built for Queen's College-seen to an advantage on the way to visit Blarney Castle. Cork, if it had not its Victoria Park of 140 acres, wvould, in a great measure, be supplied with one by its contiguity to the Groves of Blarney, and its lovely surroundings. The citizens also have a very beautiful walk bordering the river, called the Mardyke, which is about one mile long, and slhaded by fine elm-trees, which form a beautiful arch overhead; when lighted at night, it presents a very charming appearance. It was in Cork that William Penn became a convert to Quakerism. He was visiting the city on business relating to his father's property when he was converted. Cork must ever be a place of great resort to travelers, if only for its contiguity to Blarney Castle and the "Groves of Blarney," which are situated some six miles from the city. There are two roads by which to reach the castle in addition to the railway; but as the last sets you down over a mile from the castle, we would advise taking a carriage or car from the Imperial Hotel, and drive by the Sunday's Well Road and Blarney Lane, which winds nearly all the way along the banks of the lovely silver Lee, embracingexquisite views of Queen's College, the beautiful grounf 51 BLARNEY. [IRELAND.] BLARNEY. of Blackrock, and richly clothed heights of Glenmire. Distance five miles; price of a car, 3s. 6d. Do not allow your driver to return by the short and much less pleasing route of Blackpool and the northern suburbs. Carriages may be hired from Mr. Curry, Imperial Hotel. The noted castle of Blarney was long the residence of the younger branch of the royal race of M'Carthy, by whom it was erected in the 15th century. The ruins consist of a dungeon 120 feet high, with other lower remains less massive, but still so strong as to have rendered it impregnable Iefore the introduction of gunpowder. Do not fail to descend to the basement on the outside, not only to examine the curious caves and natural excavations made in its rocky foundation, but to obtain a proper idea of its original size and strength; nearly the whole mass is charmingly covered with ivy. On the river side the guide will point out the place where its defenders poured down the molten lead on the heads of Cromwell's followers. The great reputation, however, that Blarney Castle has acquired throughout the world has been through the " Blarney Stone," which is said to endow the person who kisses it with such persuasive eloquence, such an irresistible wheedling tongue, that no lady can resist him; hence the song: "There is a stone there, That, whoever kisses, Oh, lie never mi.es To grow eloquent. 'Tis lie may clamber To a lady's chamber, Or become a member Of I'arliament. A clever spouter He'll sure turn out, or An out and outer To he let alone! I)on't hope to hinder lhim, Sure le's a pilgrim Froml the Blarney Stone." This stone is situated at the northern angle, 20 feet below the summit, and bears the following inscription: " Cormach MacCarthy fortis mi fiori fecit, 1446;" but, for the accommodation of travelers, as this stone is mostly inaccessible, there is another kept on the floor of the first apartment vou enter, which you will be assured has the same virtue as the other: we think, in this one respect, the guide may be implicitly believed! It is very difficult to tell whence came the reputation of this stone, 52 but in former ages the peasantry firmly believed in its virtue, and the word " Blarney" has become of world-wide celebrity. The "Groves of Blarney," which adjoin the castle, are still very beautiful. It is said they were formerly adorned with statues, grottoes, fountains, and bridges; although these have disappeared, we still have the ":ravel-walks there For speculation And conversation." Croker, in his "Songs of Ireland," wrote of them thus: " The groves of Blarney, They look so charming Down by the purling Of sweet, silent streams, Being banked with posies That spontaneous grow there, Planted in order By the sweet rock close. "'Tis there the daisy, And the sweet carnation, The blooming pink, And the rose so fair; The daffodowndilly, Likewise the lilyAll flowers that scent 'I le sweet, fragrant air." The old woman who has charge of the castle, and the old man who unlocks the beauties of the "Groves," each expect a shilling; sixpence to the woman at the lodge, and a shilling to your outside guide, will be necessary. A short distance from the castle lies the lovely little lake of Blarney, to which is attached another tradition. 'Tis said that M'Carthy, earl of Clancarty, whose possessions were confiscated during the Revolution, threw all his family plate into the lake at a certain spot; that the secret is never known but to three of his descendants at a time; that before one dies he communicates it to another of the family. The secret is to be religiously kept until one of the descendants again becomes possessed of the property. 'Tis also said that herds of beautiful white cows rise at certain seasons from the bottom of the lake to graze on the bordering pastures! Blarney Castle is the property of Sir G. Colthurst, M.P., and is freely opened to the public. About two miles from the castle is the celebrated hydropathic establishment of Dr. Barter, where the first of the Turkish Baths, now to be found in all parts of Great Britain, was erected in 1844. ;KINSALB. [IRELAND.] BANqKON. ROUTE No. 2. Cork to Bantry, via Bandon.-This route ic performed by rail as far as Dunmanway, and thence by stage to Bantry. Distance 57 miles. After leaving the Cork terminus of the Cork and Bandon Railway on Albert Quay, the train passes over the Chetwynd Viaduct, and soon reaches Waterfall Station, where a most beautiful view of Cork, with its suburbs and lovely surrounding scenery, may be obtained. The ruins of Mourne Abbey and the remains of a Danish fort are then passed before the train reaches a junction, where a branch line diverges to Kinsale. (Hotels, Royal George and Army and Navy). The town of Kinsale stands 10 miles distant from this junction, at the mouth of the River Bandon; the streets rise one above the other on the slope of Compass Hill, giving the place a very pretty appearance from a little distance. It is a place of considerable historic importance, being one of the oldest towns in Ireland. Population 6404. During the wars of the Protectorate it was one of the first to declare in favor of Cromwell, and was subsequently the scene of several important engagements. At the beginning of the seventeenth century it was held for some time by a force of Spaniards, who landed here to aid the insurgents, and who were expelled with the greatest difficulty. Almost nothing remains of the old walls and fortifications; on the western side of the harbor stand the ruins of the old fortress of Castlenapack and of Ringrove Castle, the seat of the De Courcys. To the south of the town, at the extremity of a promontory which projects three miles into the sea, stands the light-house, 243 feet high, which is one of the first objects seen by our countrymen on arriving at Queenstown. The light from here is visible in clear weather at a distance of 20 nautical miles. Not far from the light-house stands the ruined castle of Duncearney, which was built by John de Courcy, Earl of Ulster, who received the title of Baron of Kinsale, together with a grant of the surrounding country, during the reign of Henry II. Returning by the main road to Bandon, the line passes close to the picturesque ruins of Dundaniel Castle, where the River Brinny unites with the Bandon, and enters through a tunnel into the Bandon valley, and then crosses the river to Innishannon Station, two miles from Bandon. The town of Bandon (Devonshire Arms) is one of the most important in the south of Ireland. Its distilleries and breweries are of considerable magnitude. Population 6131. The environs are decidedly beautiful, and the castle and grounds of the Earl of Bandon are well worth a visit. The gardens and conservatories are freely shown to the public, except on Sundays. The Bandon River is noted for its trout and salmon fishing. At Bandon the Cork and Bandon Line ends, and the West Cork Railway commences. The road from here is not so interesting, except for the handsome private mansions which lie dotted along its course, until we pass Ballineen, near which an ancient bridge, composed of several small arches, crosses the river leading to Ballymoney. Proceeding along the banks of the river, through scenery of unsurpassed loveliness, we pass the Castle of Ballinacarrig, a former stronghold of the O'Hurleys, reduced to its present ruined condition in the time of Cromwell. The interior contains some curious carvings and inscriptions. Dunmanway (population 2044) is a thriving village, lying at the foot of the hills which separate the Bandon valley from that of the Lee. The railroad now ends here, but will eventually extend to Drimoleague, seven miles nearer to Bantry. At the present time cars and coaches, in connection with the company, run from here to Bantry. The road passes over bleak and barren country utterly uninteresting to the traveler, until passing through a deep gorge the Bay of Bantry suddenly bursts upon his view. At the head of the bay lies the town, while facing it stands Whiddy Island, crowned with an imposing fort; 53 BANTRY. [IRELAND.] MACRO<;, Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the Cahir Mountains may be seen in the distance. This bay has twice been selected by the French for their descents on the Irish coast: once in 1689, when an engagement took place here between the French fleet and Admiral Herbert, ending to the advantage of the former; and again in 1796, when they appeared off the coast with a fleet manned by 15,000 men, but which was dispersed by a severe storm. Bantry.-Hotels, Lannin's and Godson's. (The coach stops at the first of these houses.) Population 2421. The town is small, and contains little of interest, unless we except Seacourt, the seat of the Earl of Bantry, a very beautiful place, which should be visited if you have time. The ruins of a Franciscan friary, founded by an O'Sullivan in 1466, may be seen within the demesne, together with the extensive cemetery attached. ROUTE No. 3. Cork to Kenmare and Killarney, via Macroon.-Distance 73 miles. The railway is open from Cork to Macroon, a distance of 23 miles, and coaches run during the summer season. Four miles from Cork we pass Carrigrohane Castle, formerly a stronghold of the M'Carthys, situated in a most delightful spot. Farther on we pass the ruined church of Inniscarra, which is situated at the confluence of the Rivers Lee and Bride. At Carmigadrohid, where we cross the River Lee by a bridge built by Cromwell, notice the picturesque castle built on a rock in the middle of the river. It was erected by a M'Carthy, and was besieged by the English in the middle of the 17th century. The English governor captured the Bishop of Ross, but promised him his liberty if he would prevail on the garrison of the castle to surrender, instead of which, when brought before the castle, he besought them to pro54 long the struggle, for which he was hung on the spot by the English. Seven miles more we pass the ruins of Mashanaglas Castle, built by Owen MI'Leviney, and one mile more to Macroon, the terminus of the railway. Population 3193. The Queen's Hotel is the best. The town is prettily situated in the valley of the Sallune. Its only object of attraction is its castle, which must be highly interesting to all Pennsylvanians as being the birthplace of Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, who was born inside its walls. It was erected in the reign of King John, and was destroyed several times in the 17th century. The distance from Macroon to Killarney by Kenmare direct is fifty miles, and to Bantry by Inchigeela thirty-four. Before arriving at the lakes of Inchigeela we pass, on our left, the Castle Masters, one of the strongholds of the O'Learys. The lakes of Inchigeela are formed by the expansion of the River Lee, and present a panorama of most lovely scenery. Onl an island in one of these lakes is a ruin called the Hermitage of St. Finnbar, where there is a holy well, which in former times was held in high reverence by the inhabitants, and was a place of pilgrimage for the peasantry, who believed its waters were a sure cure for all the ills that flesh is heir to. The tradition is thus: St. Patrick, after banishing the reptiles out of the country, overlooked one hideous monster, a winged dragon, which desolated the adjacent country, and power was conferred on St. Finnbar to drown the monster in tha lake, on condition of erecting a church where the waters of the lake met the tide, which accounts for the present cathedral of Cork. After passing through the wild and gloomy pass of Keimaneigh, the town of Bantry appears below. From Bantry one can proceed to Glengariff either by land or water; but, although the wild scenery of the bay is very beautiful, we would advise continuing by car, as the most beautiful part of this route commences at Bantry. The road follows the northeast bend of the bay, and soon crosses the Mealagh, whose waters fall here over a ledge of rocks, producing a very pretty cascade. The road just taken by the tourist through the pass of Keimaneigh meets the Bantry road just after the Orovane is crossed, and KENMARE. [IRELAND.] MALLOW. enters the charming valley of Glengariff, sojustly admired by travelers. Glengariff is the name of an indentation of coast in the northwestern part of Bantry Bay, and of a small river of which this harbor is the mouth. A day or two might easily be spent in the town (Hotels, Royal and Bantry Arms) for the better enjoyment of the beauties of the surrounding country. Glengariff Castle, the property of R. H.White, Esq., should by all means be visited-the grounds being freely opened to travelers. Cromwell's Bridge, erected by the Protector when in pursuit of the O'Sullivans, is a very interesting ruin, standing on the old Bearhaven road. The road from Glengariff to Kenmare (population 1205) is mostly cut through the solid rock, and is noted for its wild and rugged beauty; distance 16 miles. The town is entered by a beautiful suspension bridge 470 feet in length. Principal hotel, Lansdowne Arms. Kenrnare is a small, neat town belonging to the Marquis of Lansdowne; good salmon-fishing may be had in the vicinity. The views on the road from here to Killarney (20 miles) may be truly styled most magnificent; at the highest point on the way the view embraces the three lakes with their fairy scenery, the wild grandeur 'of the Gap of Dunloe, together with the crested tops of the Shehy Mountains, Mangerton, Tore, and Macgillicuddy's Reeks. We next cross Gallway's Bridge, and, passing through a tunnel, drive along the base of rorc Mountain until we reach the Royal Victoria Hotel, Killarney (Route No.'6). ROUTE No. 4. Cork to the Lakes of Killarney by rail, via 3Mallow Junction.-Time, three hours. This is far the quickest, though most uninteresting route for reaching Killarney. Leaving the city, the train runs through a long tunnel, and passes on the right the ruins of the celebrated Blarney Castle, already described. Farther on we come to the ruins of Mourne Abbey, near the village of Ballinamona, and soon reach the town of Mallow (population 4165), formerly a watering-place of considerable notoriety. It is situated on the left bank of the Blackwater River, and is clean and well built, the mediaeval aspect of building predominating. There is a good spa-house, library, and reading-room. This town formed part of the territory of the Earl of Desmond, and was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Sir D. Norreys after the earl's attainder. The castle is a modern Elizabethan edifice, situated on the bank of the Blackwater River, near the east end of the town. The square tower, the only remaining portion of the old fortress, stands within the grounds. At Mallow the Killarney Junction Railway turns off to the right, passing at a short distance the ruins of Dromaneen Castle; farther on to the left stands another ruin crowning the summit of Gazabo Hill, while at Kanturk we pass an unfinished castle commenced by the Macarthys during the reign of Elizabeth. Its building was interrupted by order of the Queen, on the ground that it might prove detrimental to the state. The train next enters the glen formed by the meeting of the Boghra and Caherbarna Mountains, and reaches Millstreet. Drishane Castle, the seat of H.Wallis, Esq., is situated about a mile distant from this town. This castle was built by Dermot Macarthy in 1436, and remained in the possession of his family until 1641, when it was forfeited by his descendant Donagh. Skinnagh Station is the last before reaching Killarney. A little to the left of the station stands Flesk Castle, the seat of Mr. Coltsman. ROUTE No. 5. Cork to Youghal and Blackwater River to Fermoy, and return via MAallow.-Since the opening of the railroad between Cork and Youghal, a distance of 28 miles, many tourists ascend the beautiful Blackwiter River, 55 YOUGHAL. [IRELAND.] ARDMORE. not only for the purpose of angling, but for enjoying scenery not surpassed in loveliness by any thing in the United Kingdom. The river is noted for its abundance of salmon, trout, and perch. This excursion may be made, if necessary, in one day, by taking the first train from Cork, spending an hour or two at Youghal, then proceeding on the steamer to Cappoquin, which is as far as the Blackwater is navigable; from Cappoquin to Lismore and Fermoy by post-car, and at Fermoy taking the train to Mallow Junction, and thence to Cork. The situation of Youghal, on the side of a hill overlooking the mouth of the Blackwater, is exceedingly beautiful and picturesque. Population 6081. The town (Devonshire Arms) contains several objects of interest to the traveler, among others the house occupied by Sir Walter Raleigh when living here as magistrate in 1588, and the Collegiate Church of St. Mary, one of the many ancient religious foundations abounding in this neighborhood. This church, founded in the 13th century, is situated on the side of a precipitous slope thickly overgrown with trees, on the summit of which a portion of the ancient walls of the town are still standing, surmounted by five of the cannon formerly belonging to the cld fort of Youghal. The church, although small, is very beautiful; it is built in the early pointed style of architecture, and in the form of a Latin cross. It contains several curious monuments, coffin-lids bearing Norman-French inscriptions, and in the north aisle a peculiar wooden cradle, where the sword of the corporation was formerly placed. In this aisle may also be seen the tomb and recumbent figure of Thomas, eighth Earl of Desmond, Lord-deputy of Ireland, who founded in 1464" Our Lady's College of Youghal," situated by the side of the church. Of this building there is hardly a remainirj vestige, a new house having been built on the site in 1782. Both college and church were desecrated in 1579 by the rebellious Earl of Desmond. The Warden's House, celebrated as the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh (1588-89), and where he entertained Spenser while that poet was preparing his "Faerie Queene " for publication, is situated to the north of the church; it is built in the old English style ofarchitecture, and dates from the 15th century. Some of the rooms are 56 wainscoted and decorated with carved oak. A luxurious growth of arbutus plants, as well as bays, yews, and myrtles, ornament the garden. Here also the first potato was planted in Ireland by Sir Walter, and here, for the first time, the air of Hibernia was scented by the fragrant weed of our own Virginia. During the reign of Elizabeth a large portion of the surrounding territory was granted to Sir Walter, who disposed of it to Mr. Boyle, author and philosopher, in 1602. From this Boyle,who was created Earl of Cork, was descended the lady who married the fourth Duke of Devonshire, and who inherited all the estates, so that the present owner of Chatsworth, the most beautiful residence in England, is also the owner of this delightful district. Youghal has greatly improved during the last ten years. New buildings have in many places replaced most dilapidated predecessors, and every attempt is being made for infusing commercial activity, and for transforming the town into an attractive watering-place, for which it already possesses, in the shape of a natural resource, a good sandy beach excellently adapted to sea-bathing. Those fond of inspecting antiquities should make an excursion to 4 d(more, five miles distant from Youghal, cfoi e proceeding up the Blackwater. These antiquities consist of a round tower, cathedral, oratory, church, and well, all bearing the name of St. Declan-a missionary born in the beginning of the 5th century of noble familywho founded here, a seminary for the purpose of diffusing Christianity far and wide, and whose influence is said to have soon extended over all parts of Ireland. The most ancient part of the cathedral is the choir, which is separated from the nave by a beautiful pointed arch. In the interior are two Ogham stones, discovered in 1854 -55, on one of which is the inscription, " Lughndh died on the sea on a day he was a-fishing, and is entombed in the grave's sanctuary." In the church-yard stands a round tower of five stories, ninety feet in height. At the top are four windows facing the cardinal points: the bell which hung here is said to have been heard at a distance of eight miles, so strong was its tone. Two skeletons were discovered at the base of this tower during some excavations, which has BLACKWATER. [IRELAND.] LISMORTC. led to the belief that the round towers were generally used as places of sepulture. St. Declan's Oratory is the most ancient of all the buildings; it is a small hut fourteen feet long, with side walls projecting a little beyond the roof. The lintel of the doorway, now blocked up by earth, is formed of a single stone. St. Declan's Well is situated on a steep cliff overhanging the sea. At the festival of St. Declan, held on the 24th of July, the peasantry flock here from all parts of the neighborhood, and perform penance by creeping under a huge boulder called St. Declan's stone, by which act they are supposed to benefit their physical health as well as their spiritual condition. Ardmore is reached by crossing the river at Ferry Point from Youghal, and there engaging a carriage to go and return. Returning to our route up the Blackwater, the steamer, after leaving Youghal, passes under an immense timber bridge, the largest of its kind in Ireland. It crosses the river about a mile and a half from the town, and is upheld by fifty-seven sets of piers; its length is 1787 feet, which, with a causeway 1500 feet long with which it is connected, makes a total of 3287 feet. We next pass on the left the ruins of Rhincrew Abbey, situated on the summit of a hill bearing the same name. This abbey was founded by Raymond le Gros, and was once a preceptory of Templars. The view from here is delightful. Farther on we notice the ruins of Temple Michael Castle, dating from the 14th century, and reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the forces of Cromwell. We next pass Ballinatry, the beautiful modern residence of the Hon. C. Smyth; in the grounds are the ruins of the Abbey of Molano, founded in the 6th century, said to contain the remains of Raymond le Gros, the companion of Strongbow. Among some fine paintings possessed by Mr. Smyth, one of great interest is a fulllength portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh, by Zucchero. After passing Cherrymount, Loughtane, and Clashmore House, the last the property of the Earl of Huntingdon, we' reach the ruins of Strancallv Castle, one of the many strongholds of the Desmonds. They stand on a cliff rising almost perpendicularly out of the water, with a cavern underneath (laid bare when the castle was blown up by order of the English government), formerly used as a prison, where Vol. I.-C 2 many deeds of cruelty were enacted: a large hole may still be seen through which the victims of the castle's owner were thrown into the river. After passing Villierston, we arrive at Dromana, the seat of Lord de Decies. Behind the modern mansion are the remains of a fine old castle, another of the residences of the once powerful Desmonds. Here the cherry-tree was first introduced from the Canary Isles by Sir Walter Raleigh, and the death of the famous Countess of Desmond (who presented a petition to James I. at the English court when 140 years of age) was occasioned by a fall from the branch of one of these trees (?). Climbing cherry-trees seems to be rather a juvenile amusement for an old lady of 140; but the story is in print, and should be believed. The village of Cappoquin, at the head of navigation, is most delightfully situated on the north bank of the river, and a few days might well be spent here (Powers's), if the traveler have plenty of leisure. Population 1526. Four miles from the town is the Trappist Convent of Melleray, an order of Mount St. Bernard. The building, although a plain one in exterior, being built of stones picked up by the monks on the surrounding estate,contains a fine chapel, with a beautiful stained-glass window. A large tract of barren land, granted to the brotherhood by Sir R. Keane, whose seat, Cappoquin House, lies in the immediate neighborhood, has been entirely reclaimed by the labors of the monks, who succeed in feeding and clothing themselves from the produce, and also in administering largely to the wants of the poor of the vicinity. The rule of perfect silence is allowed to be broken by one of the monks in favor of visitors, who are always most politely received. From Cappoquin to Lismore the route is performed by mail-car, through most beautiful scenery, in about three quarters of an hour. The cars leave at 10.45 A.M. and 5.15 P.M., on week days only. Lismore, one of the most ancient towns of Ireland, contains a population of 1946. It was the seat of one of the four universities existing in Ireland in the 7th century, which was destroyed by the Scandinavians, after repeated attacks, in 830, when the collegiate buildings were plundered and burned. A fortress was erected 57 FERMOY. [IRELAND.] MITCHELLSTOWN. here by King John in 1185, which afterward became and remained the residence of the bishops of the diocese until 1589, when it was granted to Sir Walter Raleigh. It became the property of the Duke of Devonshire (by marriage) in 1753, together with the other estates of the Earl of Cork. The castle, mostly built by the second Earl of Cork, stands on the summit of a cliff overlooking the Blackwater, and is shown to visitors by the housekeeper on sending in their cards. The interior of the castle is most beautifully decorated, and the views from the windows very fine, especially from the tapestried room, called after James II., when that monarch was entertained in 1690, and when, on entering the room, he started back affrighted at the view of the great depth at which the river flowed below, and accused his host of a design to throw him into the abyss. The arms of the Earl of Cork may be seen over the gateway of the castle, and under the archway two spaces are visible, made to acccm;modate two horsemen, who mounted guard in ancient times in front of the first -doorway, giving it the name of Riding House. A fine bridge, erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, crosses the Blackwater just below the castle; near to it stands the cathedral, approached from the town through a beautiful avenue of trees. This building, restored by the Earl of Cork in 1663, has since had many additions, and is well worth a visit. The stained windows of the choir, the oak carvings, and the Norman arch which forms the entrance, are all vYry fine. The distance from Lismore to Fermoy may be performed by rail in three quarters of an hour. Fermoy lies about 20 miles to the northeast of Cork, and 17 miles from Mallow Junction, and contains 7388 inhabitants. It is a flourishing town, mostly situated on the southern bank of the Blackwater, and is one of the largest military stations in Ireland. This prosperity is chiefly owing to a Mr. Anderson, a barrack contractor, who built here two barracks on the north side of the river, capable of accommodating 3000 men, as well as a hotel, a military school, and several houses. The Blackwater is crossed here by a fine stone bridge supported by 13 arches, also planned by Mr. Anderson. About a mile above Fer58 moy, and occupying both banks of the river, are the park and plantations of Castle Hyde, within which the ruins of Cregg Castle may be seen. Convamore, the seat of the Earl of Listowel, lies five miles from Fermoy on the north bank of the river; the park contains the ruins of Ballyhooley Castle, once a fortress of the Roches. Glanworth Castle, the ancient seat of the Roches, is situated on a rocky eminence overlooking the Funcheon, and close by the village of Glanworth. The road to this village from Fermoy runs through the beautiful valley of the Funcheon, and passes a curious altar of the Druids, called the Hag's Bed. A holy well is situated under the walls of Glanworth Castle, while not far distant are the remains of a Dominican abbey founded by the Roches in 1227. If the traveler have time at his disposal, a few hours should be spared for an excursion from Fermoy to Mitchellstown and its famous stalactite caverns. The distance to Mitchellstown is eight miles, and from there to the caverns seven miles. The caves bear the same name as the town, from their having formed part of the same estate until 1851. The road from Fermoy crosses the valley of the Funcheon and passes over the Kilworth Hills. The village of Kilworth forms part of the Moore Park estate, within which lie the ruins of Cloghlea Castle. The ruins of Caherdrincy Castle, placed on the summit of the Kilworth Hills, are seen for some time before reaching Mitchellstown. Mitchellstown, situated in a most beautiful country, and surrounded by mountain ranges, was formerly the property of the Earl of Kingston. Population 2743. It contains the finest modern castle in Ireland, built in 1823. The interior will be shown to any visitor sending in his card, while admission to the park may be obtained by application at the gate. The road to the caves runs through the long valley formed by the Galtee Mountains on the north, and the Kilworth and Knockmeledown Mountains on the south, and passes through the village of Kilbehenny. A mile farther on is the Mountain Lodge, formerly belonging to the Earl of Kingston, but now, together with its rich plantation, the property of the Irish Land Company. The caves are situated in two small, round hills of gray limestone; in I i I 4 I I -k —il. VU.1. -4 7'.:.,. 1. i I A:; R~arperls Xarn Book. i I i I I KILLARNEY. [IRELAND.] KILLARNEY, the most westerly of these is the old cave, now seldom visited, but known for many years before the discovery of the larger and more interesting one in 1833. The entrance to the new cave lies midway up the more eastern hill; at a public-house, about a mile before reaching the mouth of the cave, visitors are provided with guides and dresses for the expedition. A long passage is traversed, and a precipice descended by means of a ladder, before the first chamber is reached, and from here other passages lead to fifteen chambers of different sizes, to the principal of which the guides have given the names of Kingston Gallery, House of Lords, House of Commons, O'Leary's Cave, O'Callaghan's Cave, Kinsborough Hall, and the Altar Cave. About two hours are necessary for the exploration of this cave, with whose wonders and beauties nothing can be found to compare in the United Kingdom. The stalactites and stalagmites are magnificent, and in many places unite to form most beautiful natural columns for the adornment of the rooms. Returning to Fermoy, the tourist may take the train to Mallow, which is reached from Fermoy in 46 minutes. The line follows the left bank of the Blackwater, passing eight miles from Mallow the Castle of Carrigacuna, and continuing its course past numberless lovely residences lying on both banks of the river, until it reaches that town. ROUTE No. 6. Killarney, with its Excursions, and Tralee. The lakes of Killarney are, without exception, the most beautiful in the United Kingdom. The principal hotels are the Royal Victoria, Railway, and Lake Hotel. The Victoria, beautifully situated on the principal lake, commands a splendid view, and is admirably conducted; an elegant salle A manger; lighted with gas manufactured on the premises. The Railway Hotel, the property of the Great Southern and Western Company, has first-class accommodation, and is fitted up with every comfort. It is connected with the station by a covered way, and is centrally situated for visiting the different lakes. It is confidently recommended to the tourist. It is well managed by Mr. G. I. Capsey. The Lake Hotel, James Coffee proprietor, first-class, accommodates 100 persons. It is situated on the Bay of Castlelough, on the eastern shore of the Lower Lake, directly at the water's edge, and within ten minutes' drive of the station. The pleasure-grounds cover an area of sixty acres, and are richly wooded and tastefully laid out with evergreens, etc. Adjoining the hotel is the Abbey of Muckross; access at all times. The situation of the hotel is unsurpassed; occupying the centre of the circle described by the mountain- ranges of Mangerton, Tore, Eagle's Nest, Purple Mountains, Glena, Toomies, Dunloe Gap, and Carrantual, it concentrates in one view all that is graceful, picturesque, and sublime in the scenery of Killarney. The bedrooms and sitting-rooms face the lake, and the arrangements of the hotel are all that can be desired. The attendance is prompt and efficient, and the charges are moderate. If the traveler have but a single day to spare to "do" the lakes, he must leave his hotel early in the morning, sending first a horse ahead to ride through the Gap of Dunloc, also a boat to meet him at the end of the upper lake. There is a regular tariff both for carriage, horse, and boat; the boatmen expect about one shilling each in addition to the regular tariff. This excursion will occupy the whole day. If he have two days to spare, Muckross Abbey and mansion, and the Torc waterfall, as well as Ross Castle and Island, should be visited; in fact, there are lovely excursions, such as the ascent of Mangerton or Carrantual, and the excursions to Glenacapput and Lough Guitane, which will occupy every day in a whole week. Leaving Killarney for the Gap of Dunloe, a distance of about eleven miles, we pass first, on our right, the venerable ruins of Aghadoe. In about five miles we arrive at the ruined church of Killaloe, then Dunloe Castle, recently restored, once the residence and the stronghold of the O'Sullivans. In a field near by is the Cave of Dunloe, discovered in 1838. The stones of the roof contain writing of great antiquity, and will be interesting to the antiquarian, but the visit will hardly repay the general traveler. Near this is the mud and stone mansion of the granddaughter of the celebrated " Kate Kearney," who formerly inhabited the same cottage. Although the charms and beauty of the family have sadly degener59 KILLARNEY. [IRELAND.] KILLARNEY. ated, the " potheen" is probably still as good; and the lineal descendant of the farfamed Kate will, for a small remuneration, dispense to you some of the genuine "mountain dew," which, with a little goat's milk, is a very fair beverage. The Gap of Dunloe is one of the most celebrated places in Ireland. It is a narrow and gloomy defile, four miles in length, through which you must either walk or ride on horseback, the carriage-road ending at the entrance to the pass. Huge masses of over-. hanging rock darken the course of a small stream, called the Roe, which traverses the whole distance of the gap. At different points small cannon are fired off by the natives,which produce a fine effect. As powder costs something, a small fee is expected. At some points the height of the surrounding rocks (Macgillicuddy's Reeks) is 3414 feet, and a greater portion of the pass is through a chasm, the precipitous rocks rising on either hand over two thousand feet. The Roe, during its downward course, expands into several small lakes, into one of which the author of the Colleen Bawn threw his heroine. Emerging from the pass, we come in sight of the gloomy amphitheatre called the Black Valley, which, Kohl says, " had there been at the bottom, among the rugged masses of black rock, some smoke and flame instead of water, we might have imagined we were looing into the entrance ofthe infernal regions." Followingthe road which winds down the mountain, we arrive at the lion. Mr. Herbert's cottage, where your boat is in waiting. Previous to entering the grounds a toll is exacted at the gate; double if you take your horse through. Be careful tou are not torn to pieces by beggars, guides, and other nuisances, which infest this spot. The author, at the time of his last visit here, had his leg nearly broken by a kicking horse, which his owner stood in the pathway because he could not hire him to us for two shillings when we were already mounted on one for which we had paid live. Unfortunately, our stick broke at the first blow over the scoundrel's head. Embarking on board the boat, the traveler has now an opportunity of refreshing himself by a lunch, which should be sent by the boat, while the oarsmen pull him down the Upper Lake, which is two and a half miles in length. This lake is considered by many as the 60 most beautiful of the three; but it is very difficult to make a comparison. This is noted for the wild grandeur of its beauties, while the Lower Lake is held in high admiration for the glorious softness of its scenery; while many, again, think the Tore, or Middle Lake, the most beautiful. Thackeray, in his Irish Sketch-book, says, when asked about the Tore Lake, " W1hen there, we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large lake, of which it is not one fourth the size; then, when we came back, we said 'No, the large lake is the most beautiful;' and so, at every point we stopped at, we determined that that peculiar spot was the prettiest in the whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to own it, they are too handsome. As for a man coming from his desk in London or Dublin, and seeing the whole lakes in a day, he is an ass for his pains. A child doing a sum in addition might as well read the whole multiplication table and fancy he had it by heart." After passing M'Carthy's Island (so called from the fact that one of the last chiefs of that race took refuge here) and Arbutus Island, the largest in the Upper Lake, where the beautiful arbutus-tree, indigenous to Killarney, grows to perfection, we enter a long strip of water, called the Long Range, which is nearly five miles in length, and connects the Upper with the Middle of Tore Lake, and which presents some beautiful scenery. After passing Coleman's Eye, a curious promontory, we arrive at the Eagle's Nest, a rugged, precipitous rock, over one thousand feet high, remarkable for its fine echo, which the boatmen will awaken for the amusement of the traveler. About a mile farther we arrive at the antiquated structure called the Old Weir Bridge, under which the boat is carried by the current with remarkable velocity. We'now arrive in still water in a most lovely spot, called the Meeting of the Waters, where the picturesque Dinish Island divides the stream. This spot is said to have been warmly admired by Sir Walter Scott when he visited the lakes. On Dinish Island there is a fine cottage, where arrangements may be made before you leave the hotel for dinner to be served awaiting your arrival. The shores of the Middle Lake are covered with beautiful trees. Passing auner tne lBnckeen Bridge, KILLARNEY. [IRELAND.] KILLARNEY. we enter Lough Leane, or Lesser Lake, be seen the tomb of M'Carthy More; also which is five miles long by three broad. that ofO'Donoghue More. A fee is expectIt contains some thirty islands, the princi- ed by the custodian-perhaps a shilling for pal of which are Ross, Rabbit, and Innis- a party. The mansion of Mr. Herbert, a fallen. These are all very beautiful, but short distance from the abbey, is a beautiful the last named is surpassingly lovely. It building, in the Elizabethan style of archiis covered with the ruins of an ancient ab- tecture. The grounds are very tastefully arbey, supposed to have been founded by St. ranged, through which ti.- traveler will proFinian in 600. It was on this island the ceed in making the tour to tue Tore watercel'ebrated "Annals of Innisfallen," now fall, which is situated between the Tore and in the Bodleian Library, England, were Mangerton Mountains. This is a very fine composed. Every variety of scenery one cascade, formed by different streams of wacould wish for may be found in this small ter issuing from the sides of the Mangerisland-the magnificent oak, in all its ton Mountain, which unite a short distance luxuriant growth, beautiful glades, and above the fall, and, bounding over a ledge velvet lawns. The poet Moore fully ap- of rocks, fall nearly perpendicularly a dispreciated the spot: tance of sixty feet into a chasm most pict" Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well. uresquely clothed on either side with beauMav calm and sunshine long be thine; tiful firs. On your way from or going to 1 low fair thou art let others tell, Muckross, drive through the grounds of the While but to feel how fair be mine. Earl of Kenmnare (visitors at the different "Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell hotels have this privilege) to Ross Island In memory's dream that sunny smile and Castle. This island is situated on the Which o'er thee on.that evening fell and Castle. his island is situated on the When first I saw thy fairy isle." eastern shore of the lake, and can hardly About a mile and a half from Innisfal- be called an island, as it is separated from len, near the base of the mountains called the main land by a dike not over twelve the Toomies, a path leads to O'Sullivan's feet wide. It is planted with beautiful Cascade, which consists of two distinct trees and intersected with lovely walks. falls; the highest is about twenty fect, the The views of the lakes from some points second nearly the same. Beneath an over- on this island are as lovely as ever eye hanging rock over the lowest basin is a rested upon. We understand Mr. Barney small grotto, with a seat in the rock, whence Williams, the comedian, of New York, ofthe view of the fall is particularly beauti- fered the Earl of Kenmare fifty thousand ful. Retracing our steps to the boat, we dollars for two acres on this island, but was visit the Bay of Glena, from which point refused. If we were the earl we would the view of the lake is truly charming. not take five times fifty for it. It would Lady Kenmare has here a lovely little cot- really be difficult to find a more heavenly tage, and close by there is another, where spot. A drive may now be taken to the the salmon of Lough Leane, broiled over ruins of Aghadoe, which is one of the finest an arbutus fire, or roasted on skewers, group of ruins in Ireland; they consist of may be tasted in all its perfection. The a cathedral, ruined tower, and castle, the arbutus wood gives a peculiar flavor and latter inclosed by a fosse and ramparts. aroma to the fish. The town of Killarney contains about About three miles from the Victoria Ho- 7000 inhabitants, and derives its sole imtel are the ruins of Muckross Abbey, which portance and celebrity from ibs immediate was founded in 1440. They are situated in proximity to the lakes. It was formerly the grounds of the Hon. Mr. Herbert, who noted for its uncleanliness, but of late years is member of Parliament for this county. it has much improved in that respect. The The cloisters of the abbey surmount a new cathedral is a very handsome buildcourt-yard, in the midst of which stands ing, with fine stained-glass windows. an immense yew-tree of great age, and Tourists fond of steep ascents should measuring twelve feet in circumference. not neglect the view to be obtained from In the church are the tombs of many of Carrantual, one of the range called MacgilIreland's greatest chiefs, and several of licuddy's Reeks, and the highest mountain the kings of Munster are said to have been in Ireland, rising to an elevation of 3414 buried here. In the centre of the choir may feet. This excursion will require a whole 61 TRALEE. [IRELAND.] BUTTEVANT. day, and should not be attempted without a guide (to be obtained at Dunloe, price 3s. 6d.). Although there are several routes to the top, the one generally selected is from the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe; and as the ascent must be made on foot, it would be as well to decide before starting on the return route, and have a car or boat in waiting to reach the hotel. The return may be made either by the Dunloe and Aghadoe road, or by the Black Valley to the head of the Upper Lake. The ascent of Mangerton may be performed on ponies, and is consequently much less difficult, while the view from the summit is quite as fine as from Carrantual. The whole distance from Killarney to the summit is somewhere between seven and eight miles. After passing Drumrourk Hill in the ascent (which should also be visited for the fine view it commands of the Lower Lake), we reach the Devil's Punch Bowl, a sequestered lake, situated at an elevation of 2206 feet. High cliffs shut in on three sides this piece of water, which is said to contain no fish, and never to freeze. The stream which flows from it forms in the lower part of its course the Torc Cascade, and certainly abounds in excellent trout. About a mile from these falls the summit of the mountain is reached. Descending the mountain to about a mile below the lake, and turning to the right, we enter Glenacapput, a rocky pass between Mangerton and Strompa. This glen is two miles in length, and contains three small lakes; the scenery is most grand, but it should never be visited without a guide, on account of the mists which often rise and envelop the mountains, rendering a return very dangerous to any one to whom the route is unknown. Farther to the eastward, at the base of Strompa, lies Lough Guitane, which is seldom visited except by anglers, as it is more celebrated for the excellence and abundance of its trout than for any remarkable effects of scenery. Tralee is reached by rail from Killarney in 55 minutes, through a dreary and uninteresting country. This town, connected with the port of Blennerville by a ship canal, is the largest sea-port in the southwestern part of Ire62 land, and contains 9506 inhabitants (1871). Hotel, Blennerhasset Arns. There is little here to interest the traveler, unless we except the ancient church of Ratass, built of red sandstone, which would afford some pleasure to the archaeologist. ROUTE No. 7. Cork to Limerick, vi Kilmallock. Time, 4 hours 45 minutes. This route has already been described as far as Mallow (see Route No. 4). Seven miles from Mallow Junction the train, after passing Castletown-Roche, containing a ruined castle, the ancient seat of the Roches, reaches Buttevant, formerly called Bothon, from the cry "Boutez en avant," used by David de Barry when urging on his men in a conflict with the M'Carthys. Population 1756. Among the interesting objects to be seen in this town we notice the Franciscan abbey, founded by David de Barry, lord chief justice of Ireland, in the 13th century. The nave and choir alone remain; in a chapel opening out from the former lie the remains of the Barrys, Butlers, and Fitzgeralds. Notice also in the town a square tower, all that remains of a castle once belonging to the Lombards. From Buttevant Castle, the seat of Lord Doneraile, an extensive view may be obtained of the River Arobeg, celebrated by Spenser as the Mulla. Kilcolman, the residence of that poet, lies six miles distant from Buttevant. Edmund Spenser was born in 1553, at Smithfield, London, and was educated at Pembroke College, Cambridge. After passing through all the vicissitudes generally attending those who earn their livelihood with pen or brush, he obtained a grant of a portion of the property formerly belonging to the Earls of Desmond, with the condition attached that he should make his residence on the property. He consequently removed to C HARLEVILLE. [IRELAND.] LoUGH GUR. Kilcolman Castle; and here, in 1589, he I finally destroyed in the time of Cromwell. sat with Raleigh on the banks of the Aro- I One of the great features of interest withbeg, and read to him portions of his " Faerie in the town are some of the ancient houses Queene." He occupied the castle until dating from the times of James or Eliza1598, when he was attacked by the insur- beth, and presenting with their ornamentgents, to whom he had rendered himself ed battlements a perfect picture of fallen obnoxious; the castle was plundered and greatness. These houses, however, arenow burned, and, although the poet escaped fast disappearing, and soon nothing will unhurt, his infant child perished in the remain save the ruined church and abbey flames. At the Restoration the property to enable one to recall a picture of olden was given to Spenser's grandson, by whom times. The Abbey of Kilmallock consists it was forfeited through adhesion to the of a choir, nave, and transept, dedicated to interests of James II.; and, although again St. Peter and St. Paul; the choir is still restored to the family, it has long since used for divine service. At the west of passed into other hands. The station of the north aisle is a round tower of two Charleville is next reached, whence a di- stories, lighted by narrow and pointed winrect line diverges to Limerick, 19 miles dows, the upper portion of which has been shorter than the route we are now taking repaired. Near the tower are the remains via Kilmallock. Between Buttevant and of a beautiful Dominican friary, elaborateCharleville the river Arobeg is thrice cross- ly decorated and with sculptured cloisters, ed by the railroad, which, leaving behind supposed to belong to the reign of Edward the rich and luxuriant plains of the Gold- III. The remains of the choir, nave, and en Vale, enters a steep and mountainous transept of the church may still be seen. region, which extends from here in a south- The next station p-rsed on the road is erly direction to the Atlantic. Knocklong, in whose vicinity the traveler Charleville, the property of the Earl of will find many interesting remains. The Cork, contains 2479 inhabitants. The village of Hospital, two miles north of town was named in honor of Charles II., Knocklong, derives its name from a preand was founded by the Earl of Orrerv in ceptory of the Templars founded here dur1661. A few miles from the town the ing the reign of King John, while not far train passes the hill of Ardpatrick, the distant stands Emly, a place which in forsummit of which is crowned with the re- mer times, under the name of Imlagh, ocmains of an ancient monastery. supposed cupied a prominent position among the to have been founded by St. Patrick, and towns of Ireland. An excursion may also a round tower, a mere stump in the last be made to Galbally to visit the remains stages of decay. Five miles to the right of Moor Abbey, a Franciscan friary foundis the small market-town of Kilfinane, con- ed in 1204 by Donagh Carbragh O'Brien. taining the ruins of an ancient castle, for- Lough Gur, a small lake about four miles merly the property of the Roches, and a in circumference, should also be visited by rath called the " Dane's fort," consisting those interested in Druidical remains; of a mound 130 feet high and 20 feet in these abound all along the shores, the diameter at the top, surrounded-by ram- most interesting being a temple formed parts diminishing outwardly in height. of three circles of stones, of which the These ramparts are seven in number; the largest is 150 feet in diameter; some of seventh and last on the exterior is but 10 the stones employed are 13 feet long. The feet high. tomb called " Edward and Grace's Bed" Kilmallock, the next station on the line, is an assemblage of rocks once forming a contains many antiquities to interest the chamber, and covered with large flags. traveler. Population 1152. Although Here also is a cromlech with four supthis town is supposed to have existed at a ports, and two very curious circular forts. very early date, and derives its name from On an island in the lake, and connected St. Molach, who founded a church here in with the mainland by a causeway, are the the seventh century, it did not receive a ruins of a castle, formerly a fortress of the charter until the reign of Edward III. It Geraldines. was then surrounded by fortifications, At Limerick Junction, 10 miles from which, afterundergoingseveralsieges,were Knocklong, a branch of the Great Western 63 LIMERICK. [IRELAND.] ASKEATON. and Southern Railway leads to Tipperary on the right and to Limerick on the left. Twenty-two miles from Limerick Junction is situated the city of Limerick, which, in point of commerce, stands fourth in rank among the cities of Ireland. It is finely situated on the Shannon River, 80 miles from the Atlantic, and contained in 1871 a population of 39,353 inhabitants, being a decrease since 1851 of 14,000. Hotel, Cruse's. Its principal manufactures are lace and gloves. For the former it is much noted, and it is said that Limerick lace is often exported to Belgium, and imported again at four times its cost. (A great deal is done in that way in the United States in regard to whisky.) The principal object of interest in the city is the Cathedral, which dates from the 12th century, but was enlarged by an O'Brien, king of Limerick, in the early part of the 13th. A very magnificent view may be had from the tower, concerning whose bells a touching story is told. They are said to have been the work of an Italian artist, who executed them for a convent in his native place. During the wars between Francis I. and Charles V. three of his sons were sacrificed, and the music of these bell. was the sole soother of his melancholy hours. The convent becoming impoverished, the bells were sold, and removed to foreign lands. Sad and dejected, the old man started off in search of them. After many years of wandering, he at last, one evening, took a boat for Limerick, and, as he landed, the bells rang out for prayer. The sudden joy was too much for him, and before the last sounds had vibrated through the air he had joined his sons in their peaceful resting-place above. The other public buildings of Limerick are quite numerous, embracing various places of public worship, a customhouse, banks, free-schools, etc.. etc. The town was settled by the Danes in the 9th century, who remained its possessors until their final overthrow by the Irish under Brian Boroihme in 1014. Immediately after they were expelled the town became the residence of the kings of Thomond up to the Anglo-Norman invasion. The castle, which was built by King John, is of immense strength, and some of the towers of the walls which still exist show traces of numerous sieges. 64 ROUTE No. 8. Limerick to Tralee, by steamer down the Lower Shannon, via Beigh, Foynes, Glin, Tarbert, and Kilush. There are three modes of reaching Tralee from Limerick-by steamer daily, stopping at the places above mentioned; by rail to Foynes, and thence by steamer; or by mailcar the entire distance to Tralee. After leaving Limerick by the first of these routes, the steamer passes through the Pool and enters the river, passing Coreen Castle to the right, and the ruins of Carrigagunell to the left. About ten miles farther on, where the stream is dotted with numerous small islands, we pass Bunratty Castle, situated a short distance up Bunratty River, now serving as a police barrack, but formerly a fortress of the Earls of Thomond. At a little distance farther to the left the Shannon is entered by the Maige, a good-sized stream, which rises in the southern part of the county of Limerick, and flows past Croom and Adare. Beigh, 16 miles from Limerick, is the landing-place for travelers wishing to visit Askeaton. Near the quay stand the ruins of the ancient castle, and the whole neighborhood abounds with Danish raths. Askeaton (population 1353) is another of the former possessions of the powerful Earls of Desmond, who built here a strong castle, the ruins of which may still be seen on the summit of a limestone rock overlooking the River Deel; the great hall is still in a fair state of preservation. To the north of the town stands the Franciscan abbey built by the Fitzgeralds in the 15th century. The cloisters, inclosed on each side by pointed arches, with columns richly sculptured, are very beautiful and in good preservation. The parish church of Askeaton, dating from the 13th century, was once a commandery of the Knights Templars. Returning to our route, we pass the ADARE. [IRELAND.] TIPPERARY. mouth of the River Fergus, which enters the Shannon nearly opposite Beigh, and eight miles farther on we arrive at Foynes. The railway from Limerick to Foynes passes through the town of Adare, which contains the ruins of three abbeys, as well as those of an ancient castle. This castle was built to command the River Maige, a tributary of the Shannon, on which the town of Adare is situated; it was the property of the Earls of Desmond, and owes its destruction to the rebellion of 1641. The Franciscan abbey, now used as the parish church, was founded by the seventh Earl of Kildare. The Abbey of the Holy Trinity, founded by the first Earl of Kildare, was converted into a Roman Catholic chapel by the late Earl of Dunraven. Within the demesne of the last-mentioned Earl (Adare Abbey, on the opposite side of the Maige) are the ruins of the Augustine abbey founded early in the 14th century by the first Earl of Kildare. These ruins are roofless but whole, are in a good state of preservation, and the cloisters of Gothic architecture nearly entire. The passage of the steamer from Foynes to Kilrush occupies about three hours, through lovely scenery, and past numerous small and verdant islands lying dotted over the surface of the river, which widens here into the appearance of a small lake. The river again narrows as the steamer approaches Glin, the next landing-place, near which stands the castle of the Knights of Glyn, owned by that family during the last 700 years. The siege of this castle by Sir George Carew in the reign of Elizabeth, and during the rebellion of the Earl of Desmond, is justly celebrated. Unfortunately for the besieged, the conflict ended in the destruction of the Knight of Glyn with all his adherents. Tarbert, 35 miles from Limerick, is next reached. It is a small town situated at the head of a bay of the same name, containing hut 715 inhabitants. The channel is defended by a battery built upon a small island in the bay. In crossing from here to Kilrush a most beautiful view of the sea may be obtained. Scattery Island is passed on the way-it is crowned with one of the finest round towers in Ireland, 120 feet in height; there are also some ecclesiastical remains, among others an oratory said to have belonged to St. Senan. Moore's well known melody has rendered this island famous. Kilrush, 22 miles from the mouth of the Shannon, is a thriving town with 4424 inhabitants. Hotel, Vandeleur Arms. From here an excursion may be made by boat to Scattery Island, also to a stalactite cave two miles down the bay to Loop Head. A Danish rath is also to be seen in the neighborhood of the town. Kilkee, 8~ miles from Kilrush, is a fashionable watering-place, situated at the head of Moore's Bay, and protected by the Duggerna Rocks. Most beautiful walks may be taken here in both directions, where the traveler may have his fill of wild cliff scenery and raging waves. From the light-house at Loop Head a grand panorama stretches out, which will fully repay all those who undertake the ascent. To reach Tralee the traveler must return to Tarbert, and there take the mail - car, which leaves Tarbert at 7.39 A.M., reaching Tralee at 11.25 A.M., passing on the route through Listowel. This is a small town, situated on the banks of the Feale, containing ivy-covered ruins of an old castle which was the last stronghold to,urrender to the forces of Elizabeth during the Desmond rebellion. Tralee, 17 miles from Listowel. (See Route No. 6.) ROUTE No. 9. Limerick to Waterford via Limerick Junction, Tipperary, and Clonmel, by rail in 4 hours and 10 minutes. Fare, first class, 13s. 6d. Tipperary is only three miles distant from Limerick Junction. The town, which contains 5638 inhabitants (1871), is situated in one of the most fertile districts of Ireland, but its inhabitants are noted for their restless and revolutionary spirit. There are few remains of antiquity to be seen here, although the town dates from the time of King John; all traces of the castle built by that monarch have disappeared, 65 CAHMR. [IRELAND.] WATERFORD. and of the abbey built during the reign of Henry III. nothing but an arched gateway is left standing. From Tipperary the railway sweeps along the base of the Slievenamuck Mountains, and crosses near Bansha Station the River Aherlow; the ruins of the church and castle of Knockgraffian, about three miles from Cahir, are next passed. Cahir is a small but thriving town, containing 2694 inhabitants. It is a place of some antiquity, possessing a castle (situated on a rock overlooking the Suir), which was founded as early as 1142. The building is in a state of good preservation, notwithstanding the sieges it has sustained: notably that by the Earl of Essex when the castle was held by the Butlers, and again in 1641 against the forces under Lord Inchiquin. From Cahir the railway takes a turn to the south, and, after passing Loughlohery House and Woodruff House, reaches Clonmel, a prosperous town, situated at the base of the Commeragh Mountains. Population 10,508. Hotel, Hearne's. This town chiefly owes its prosperity to a Mr. Bianconi, a picture-dealer from Dublin, who, after making some money in that trade, removed in 1815 to Clonmel, and here first began to run a car as far as Cahir for the benefit of the lower class, who paid much less for this conveyance than in going by regular stage-coach. This attempt having met with great success, the route was extended from Cahir to Tipperary and Limerick; other cars were started in different directions, and in 1857 Mr. Bianconi possessed sixty-seven cars and nine hundred horses, running to all the principal places in the south and west of Ireland. The benefit of this enterprise to the country has been very great, and has given to Mr. Bianconi not only a large private fortune, but the respect and good wishes of all his countrymen, as well as a name which will be inscribed as a benefactor in his country's annals. Clonmel is a place of considerable antiquity, and is believed to have been built before the Danish invasion. It is situated on both sides of the River Suir, and on Long and Muire Islands, which are connected with the mainland by three bridges. Of the ancient castles and fortifications only ruins are to be seen, caused by Cromwell's 66 siege in 1650. An old Gothic church is still used as a place of worship, but unfortunately on that account has been a good deal modernized. A very pr(tty promenade near the town is called Fairy Hill Road. The exportation of grain is the principal business, although cotton and woolen goods are manufactured to some extent. Clonmel was the principal scene of the insurrection of 1848. Carrick-on-Suir is the last station but one before reaching Waterford. Here the ancient castle built by the Ormonds in 1309 may be seen, and the old church of Donoughmore, situated on the slope of Slievenamon. Waterford, situated on the estuary of the Suir, here crossed by a wooden bridge 832 feet in length, is the fifth town in Ireland in point of population, containing 23,319 inhabitants. This is a place of great antiquity. It was founded by the Danes toward the close of the 9th century, but of their ancient fortifications nothing now remains but a circular building called, after the person by whom it was founded in 1003, Reginald's Tower. The Danes held possession of this city until 1171, when it was captured by Strongbow and Raymond le Gros, and most of the inhabitants massacred. Eva, the daughter of the King of Leinster, was immediately afterward married by Strongbow. Hotel, Imperial. Waterford is the nearest port of export for Irish produce into England, and is admirably adapted for a shipping-port. The quays stretch for about a mile along the southern bank of the Suir, and form almost the only good street in Waterford. The harbor of Waterford is formed by the confluence of the Suir and Barrow Rivers; its entrance, which is 2j miles wide, is well lighted by two leading lights at Duncannon, a red light on Dunmore Pier, and by a fixed light, 139 feet above the sea, on Hook Tower. The quays, where vessels of 800 tons can discharge, are among the finest in the United Kingdom. The exports are principally agricultural. An excursion should be made from Waterford to the ruins of Dunbrody Abbey, situated five miles down the estuary, near the mouth of the Barrow, and reached by the steamers running between Waterford and Ross, daily (Sunday excepted) at 4 i NUNN....... MILi: 0~il iilli iiiiil i allow ii i1 i 1i I il~iiiiI i~f~~liiiliilliiiil............liii CASHEL. [IRELAND.] TEMPLEMORE. P.M. This abbey was founded in 1182 excusing himself before the king, he said he by Henry de Montmorency, a relative of would not have committed the act had he Strongbow. These ruins, among the most known the bishop was not in the cathedral. perfect in Ireland, consist of a choir, nave, Contiguous to the cathedral is a cemetery, aisles, and transepts, with a tower rising at in which stands a cross called the Cross of their intersection. The nave is separated Cashel, on one side of which is an effigy of from the aisles by rows of early pointed St. Patrick. The Dominican Priory, situarches with square piers. The east win- ated on one of the back streets, should also dow, surmounted by three smaller ones, is be visited: it is a fine old view. very fine, as is also the stone filigree work Before reaching Thurles, the next staof the west door. Near the abbey stands tion, we pass on the right the ruins of 1oly Dunbrody Castle, dating from the time of Cross Abbey, founded in 1182 by Donagh Henry II. O'Brien, and deriving its name from the possession of a piece of the true cross, presented to Donagh O'Brien, grandson of Brian Boroihme, by Pope Pascal. This relic remained in the abbey until the Reformation, being set in gold and adorned with gems, and then passed into the possession of the Ormond family, to whom the abbey and its valuable estates were granted for the annual sum of ~15. The building consists of a choir, nave, transepts, and tower; ROUTE No. 10. the last is supported on pointed arches, Cork to Dublin, via Mallow, Kilmallock, with a' groined roof of beautiful workmanMaryborough, and Kildare. Time, 7 hours ship. The choir contains two interesting 15 minutes; fare, ~1 12s. shrines; one of these, situated on the south For description of this route as far as side of the high altar, is emblazoned with Limerick Junction, see Route No. 4 from the arms of England and France, and of Cork to Mallow, and Route No. 7 from the Fitzgeralds and Butlers, and is supMallow to Limerick Junction. posed to be the tomb of the daughter of the Three miles beyond Limerick Junction Earl of Kildare, wife of the fourth Earl of the train passes the Dundrum demesne, Ormond. The other shrine, supported by the seat of Lord Hawarden, famous for its rows of fluted spiral columns, is believed to deer. This park covers 2400 acres, and have been the receptacle of the fragment is one of the largest private parks in Ire- of the cross already mentioned. The tranland. Goold's-cross Station is next reached, septs are both divided into two chapels, whence it is a drive of five miles to Cashel, adorned with tombs and monuments. The formerly the residence of the kings of Mun- baptismal font stands in the north transept. ster, and a place of considerable interest in At Thurles, 87 miles from Dublin, the an historical point of view, as well as for ruins of an ancient monastery founded in its peculiar ruins, situated on a high rock 1300 may be seen. which rises some 300 feet above the mod- This town is the seat of numerous colern town. A church was founded here in leges and schools maintained by Roman the time of St. Patrick; it was also made Catholics; it also possesses a handsome cainto a stronghold in the days of Brian Bor- thedral. The keep of the old castle, erectoihme. Donald O'Brien, king of Limer- ed in the 12th century, still guards the ick, paid homage here to Henry II. during bridge crossing the Suir. his invasion of Ireland, and Edward the Templemore owes its origin to the Knights Bruce here held a Parliament. The build- Templars, a part of one of whose precepings on the rock are a castle and a group tories now forms an entrance into the Priof ecclesiastical buildings, consisting of a ory, the seat of Sir J. Carden. The ruins cathedral, a monastery, a church, and some of Loughmore Castle, formerly the seat of towers. The cathedral was burned in the the Purcells, may also.be seen at Temple15th century by the Earl of Kildare, who more. supposed the archbishop was inside. In After stopping at Ballbrophy, the train 67 KILDARE. [IRELAND.] DUBLIN. passes the Rock of Dunamase, on whose summit stand the ruins of Strongbow's castle, devoted to destruction by Cromwell. We next reach Maryborough, so named after Queen Mary, and Portarlington, near which Emo Park, the seat of the Earl of Portarlington, is situated. After leaving Portarlington the line crosses the Barrow by means of an iron viaduct 500 feet long, and reaches Monastereven, the next station, which derives its name from an abbey founded here in the 7th century by St. Even. This abbey exercised for a long time the privileges of a sanctuary, and first belonged to the hereditary chiefs of the MacEgans. After passing through various hands, it is now the property of the Marquis of Drogheda, and is called Moore Abbey. Six miles farther on we reach Kildare, thirty miles from Dublin. Population 1333. Here a branch line runs off to Waterford through Kilkenny. Kildare abounds in ecclesiastical antiquities. Of the ruined cathedral, the chapel of St. Bridget alone remains. This chapel was called the Fire House, as here was preserved the inextinguishable fire mentioned by Cambrensis, which was "maintained by nuns day and night during a thousand years." Close to the church stands a round tower 110 feet high, whose original conical top has been replaced by a Gothic battlement. Between Kildare and Newbridge we pass the Curragh, an extensive plain containing 4858 acres, where horse-races take place twice a year. This was once an extensive forest; it is now the seat of one of the chief military encampments in Ireland. After leaving Newbridge we pass on the right the ruins of Old Collin Abbey, founded in 1202, while on the opposite side the Hill of Allen may be seen rising 300 feet above a bog bearing the same name. We next reach Straffan, passingthe village and hill of Oughterard; the latter, 438 feet high, is crowned by the ruins of a round tower and other ecclesiastical remains. Celbridge Abbey lies near the station of Hazelhatch; this was formerly the residence of Vanessa, one of Swift's loves. Clondalkin, four and a half miles from Dublin, containing one of the most perfect round towers to be seen in Ireland, is next passed. Before reaching Dublin we pass the military hospital of Kilmainham, established 68 here in 1675. It occupies the site of' a Priory of the Knights Hospitallers, founded by Earl Strongbow in 1174. From here we soon reach the Dublin Terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway, situated in the western part of the city near King's Bridge, and close to the entrance of Pbeenix Park. Dublir, is very beautifully situated on the banks of the Liffey, and contains a population of 314,666. There are two very fine hotels in Dublin, viz., the Shelbourne and Gresham. The Shelbourne is a new house, splendidly situated on St. Stephen's Green, finely furnished and admirably managed by Mrs. Jury (widow of the late Mr. Jury, well known to American travelers); it is a favorite hotel in Ireland. The Gresham is also a first - class house, and admirably managed by Mr. Walter Holder. Dublin is the metropolis of the island, and is distinguished by the magnificence of its public buildings, and by its numerous splendid residences: it is justly regarded, in external appearance, as one of the finest cities in Europe. The city was conquered by the English under Richard Strongbow in 1169. Henry 11. held his first court here in 1172, and in 1210 King John held a court, when the first bridge was thrown across the Liffey. It was besieged by Edward Bruce in 1316, when he was repulsed with great loss; likewise by Henry VIII. with the same effect. Dablin is the seat of a Protestant Universih styled Trinity College, which dates its foundation from the time of Queen Elizabeth. There are, besides, academies and other institutions for the culture of science, literature, and the fine arts. The amount of the commerce of Dublin is considerable. Both foreign and coasting trade are extensively carried on. As the mouth of the Liffey is so obstructed by sand-banks that large vessels can not re;ch the city, an admirable harbor has been constructed at Kingston, six miles from the city, with which it is connected byrailway. The principal objects of attraction in Dublin are, first, the Castle, the qfflcial residence of the lord-lieutenant since the reign of Elizabeth, at which time it was devoted to this use: its beautiful chapel, built of Irish limestone and oak, is particularly worthy of notice. Its elegantly stained here in 1675. It occupies the site of a Priory of the Knights Hospitallers, founded by Earl Strongbow in 1174. From here we soon reach the Dublin Terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway, situated in the western part of the city near King's Bridge, and close to the entrance of Phoenix Park. Dublin is very beautifully situated on the banks of the Liffey, and contains a population of 314,666. There are two very fine hotels in Dublin, viz., the Shelbourne and Gresham. The Shelbourne is a new house, splendidly situated on St. Stephen's Green, finely furnished and admirably managed by Mrs. Jury (widow of the late Mr. Jury, well known to American travelers); it is a favorite hotel in Ireland. The Gresham is also a first-class house, and admirably managed by Mr. Walter Holder. Dublin is the metropolis of the island, and is distinguished by the magnificence of its public buildings, and by its numerous splendid residences: it is justly regarded, in external appearance, as one of the finest cities in Europe. The city was conquered by the English under Richard Strongbow in 1169. Henry II. held his first court here in 1172, and in 1210 King John held a court, when the first bridge was thrown across the Liffey. It was besieged by Edward Bruce in 1316, when he was repulsed with great loss; likewise by Henry VIII. with the same effect. Dublin is the seat of a Protestant University, styled Trinity College, which dates its foundation from the time of Queen Elizabeth. There are, besides, academies and other institutions for the culture of science, literature, and the fine arts. The amount of the commerce of Dublin is considerable. Both foreign and coasting trade are extensively carried on. As the mouth of the Liffey is so obstructed by sand-banks that large vessels can not reach the city, an admirable harbor has been constructed at Kingston, six miles from the city, with which it is connected by railway. The principal objects of attraction in Dublin are, first, the Castle, the official residence of the lord-lieutenant since the reign of Elizabeth, at which time it was devoted to this use: its beautiful chapel, built of Irish limestone and oak, is particularly worthy of notice. Its elegantly stained I 4 EDU.LI N ll Wr*. i i Ii i R",,,\ Coburg L- 1 U, I II 111 I fi -- I 11 1\ I )F-, 1-11 11 // -- X. I I I --- 11 f"i I Rr"A. I DUBLIN. [IRELAND.] DUBLIN. glass windows contain the arms of all the different lord-lieutenants most admirably executed. The music one hears here every Sunday forenoon is excellent. The different state apartments may be visited at all times, unless during the season, when occupied by the viceroy, who gives here levees attended by all the elite of Dublin. Try to visit the court-yard of the Castle in the forenoon during the time the band plays. On our way to the Castle, a visit should be made to the Bank of Ireland in College Green, formerly the Irish House of Parliament, and decidedly the finest building in Dublin, if not in Ireland. It was completed in 1787, at a cost of $500,000. The House of Lords remains the same as when finished, with the exception that a statue of George III. now stands where formerly the throne stood. There are two fine tapestries, representing the Battle of the Boyne Water and the Siege of Derry. The House of Commons is used to-day as the Teller's Office. Orders are freely given by the secretary of the bank for admission to see the operation of printing the banknotes. The General Post-office, on Sackville Street, is also another fine building which should be examined. Immediately opposite the Bank is Trinity College, founded by Queen Elizabeth, from which have emanated some of the greatest wits of modern times. It covers an area of nearly thirty acres, and contains a library of nearly 20,000 volumes, and many valuable manuscripts. The museum is rich in interesting relics, among which is the harp of Brian Boroihme, and the charter-horn of King O'Kavanagh. Near the library is the Fellows' Garden, in which is situated the Magnetic Observatory, the first ever established of the kind. The students of Trinity College number about 1400. Christ's Church Cathedral, or the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, was erected in the 11th century. It is built in the form of a cross. In the interior is a monument said to be that of Strongbow. This church was formerly the repository of many valuable relics, destroyed by the citizens in the 16th century, among others the staff of St. Patrick; it also contained the sacred shrine of St. Culie, stolen from the Welsh by the people of Dublin, and held in high veneration by its citizens. Pilgrims came from far and near to worship before it, and while in Dublin enjoyed the right of sanctuary. It was in this church that the Liturgy was first read in Ireland in the English language; in 1553 mass was again performed, and continued for six years, by order of Queen Mary, when the Reformed service took its place. Travelers remaining in Dublin during Sunday will do well to visit the Cathedral, where they will hear some delightful music from a full choir. St. Patrick's Cathedral.-This structure, dear to all Irishmen, was erected about the close of the 12th century. The original building, however, antedates this by many hundred years; in fact, it is affirmed that St. Patrick erected a place of worship here, which was the site of the well where he originally baptized his converts. There are numerous monuments in the interior of this cathedral; that of Boyle, earl of Cork, is particularly deserving of notice. The earl and his lady are represented surrounded by sixteen of their children: contiguous to this monument are two marble slabs, which cover the resting-places of Dean Swift and Mrs. Johnston, the "Stella" of his poetry. The Lady Chapel was formerly used as the chapter-house for the Knights of St. Patrick. The principal other churches are St. George's, St. Michan's, St. Audeon's, St. Andrew's, and St.Werburg's. The Four Courts, so called on account of the object for which it was erected, viz., the Courts of Queen's Bench, Common Pleas, Chancery, and Exchequer, is a magnificent and extensive structure, which cost over one million of dollars. The river front is 450 feet long, and has a fine portico of six Corinthian columns supporting a pediment surmounted by a statue of Moses, with figures of Justice and Mercy on either hand. The building is crowned by a magnificent dome, under which is the grand hall, 64 feet in diameter, lighted by a figure of Truth holding a torch in her hand. From this hall, which in term time is the great resort of lawyers, doors lead into the four different courts. Over the entrances are four pictures worthy of notice: first, James I. abolishing the Brehon laws, Henry II. granting a charter to the inhabitants, John signing the Magna Charta, and William the Conqueror establishing courts of justice. In addition to the Four Courts, 69 DUBLIN. [IRELAND.] DUBLInA. there are two wings which contain other smaller courts and offices. The Custom-house is, externally considered, the finest building in Dublin. It was erected at an expense of two and a half millions of dollars, and occupied ten years in building. Over the portico, which is composed of Doric columns, are colossal statues of Navigation, Wealth, Commerce, and Industry. On the tympanum is a sculpture representing the Union of England and Ireland. On the north side of the building is a portico nearly similar, with figures of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. The whole building is surmounted by a dome, on which is a colossal statue of Hope. Seen from every side, the Custom-house is a very beautiful building. The Exchange, in Dame Street, is also deserving of a visit. Nelson's Monument, which stands in the centre of Sackville Street, is a beautiful testimonial erected by the Irish admirers of that hero. The pedestal is of granite, thirty feet high, bearing the names of Nelson's different victories. The Doric column is seventy feet in height, and is surmounted by a fine statue of the hero, erected by Thomas Kirk, thirteen feet in height, which stands on another pedestal. Nelson is represented leaning against the capstan of a ship. A magnificent view of the city and surrounding country may be had from the summit. A fee of sixpence is demanded for permission to ascend. The Irish National Gallery/ contains some fine paintings and sculpture. It is situated on the north side of Leinstcr Lawn, and was opened in 1864. On the opposite side of the square is the Museum cf Natural History. The Royal Irish A cademy should also be visited. A member's introduction is necessary. The museum contains a fine collection of antiquities. It won't do to say to a citizen of Dublin that you have visited the city and not Phoenix Park, which the natives think superior to any thing in the world! We only say to American travelers, don't expect to find a Central Park of New York, a Bois de Boulogne of Paris, or a Cascine of Florence. The portion open to the public is 1300 acres in extent, and contains many magnificent trees and fine carriage-drives, but no diversity of scenery, beautiful lakes, walks, flow70 ers, and fountains, such as you see in Central Park, which we think, in years, when the trees obtain sufficient growth, will be far superior to any thing in the world. The principal object of interest in the Phoenix Park is the Wellington Testimonial. It is a massive obelisk, placed on a granite pedestal, on which are written fhe various victories gained by England's greatest warrior. It is about 200 feet in height, and cost $100,000. The vice-regal lodge of the lord-lieutenant is situated in the Park, and near it are the Zoological Gardens. They are quite extensive, and, though not well filled, the collection is varied. A visit should be made to the Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin, about two miles from Dublin, near which is the Cemetery, containing numerous fine monuments, among others those of Daniel O'Connell and Curran. They are both of massive granite, the former one hundred and sixty feet high, surmounted by a cross eight feet in height. Poplin is fast assuming an important place among the products of Ireland, the Irish Poplin having now a world-wide reputation. Few tourists leave Dublin without supplying themselves with some of these beautiful fabrics, which many consider impossible to be surpassed by the products of France or Italy. In Lower Sackville Street, No. 15, is the merchant tailoring establishment of Samuel McComas & Son, where travelers may procure clothing in the first style of fashion and at most reasonable prices. Their assortment of fashionable woolens is large and select, consisting of English, Scotch, French, and Irish manufactures. Switzer, Fergusen,& Co.,we recommend as extensive general merchants, where the tourist can procure all the requisites of travel, as well as most of the Irish specialties. Balbriggan hosiery, linen shirts, tweeds, etc. This house is noted for its superior silks. There are numerous excursions in the vicinity of Dublin, which, if the traveler have time, he had better make; and, should he not be crossing the channel from Kingstown (six miles from Dublin), he had better make an excursion to that town, which is the harbor of Dublin, and from which steamers are arriving and departing several times each day to England, Scotland, and Wales. KINGSTOWN. [IRELAND.] ROUTE NO. 11. Kingstown, now somewhat of a fashiona)le watering-place, was in 1821 a miserable fishing village called Dunleary. On the occasion of George IV. visiting Ireland and landing at this port, its name was changed to Kingstown, and its prosperity commenced from that date. The harbor is entirely artificial, and is one of the finest in the kingdom; its cost was two and a half millions of dollars. The railway runs along the pier, where passengers may change immediately to the sailing packet, under shelter during stormy weather. The principal hotels are the Royal and Anglesea Arms. A most interesting excursion of three days may be made by continuing on to Bray, a watering-place of very modern construction, Enniskerry, the Dargle, the Seven Churches, Vale of Avoca, and Wicklow. For particulars of this excursion, see Route No. 13. An excursion should also be made to the Hill of Howth, an elevated promontory at the northern entrance to Dublin harbor. It rises nearly 600 feet above the level of the sea. Its castle, abbey, and college are well worth a visit. The castle is the family seat of the Lawrences, who have held it for the last seven hundred years. The family name was formerly Tristrane, but Sir Amirec Tristrane de Valence, having won a battle on St. Lawrence's day, then took the name of that saint. The sword of that famous warrior still hangs in the chapel. There is rather a romantic story in connection with this family, which, if true, shows the regard posterity has in some instances for a pledge given by their ancestors. During the reign of Elizabeth, one Grace O'Malley, an Amazon chieftainess, returning from a visit to the queen, landed at Howth, and demanded hospitality of the castle's owner, which he for some reason refused, it is said, because he was at dinner. The Amazon determined to have revenge for the insult, and to lie in wait for an opportunity, which happened in finding the child, the heir to the throne, within her reach. Having seized him, he was kept in close confinement until she obtained a vow from the father that on no account thereafter should the castle gates be closed during the hour of dinner; this promise was most religiously kept until a recent period. There is a.painting in the castle which il lustrates the event. A full-length portrait of the celebrated Dean Swift may also be seen here. The light-house and St. Fintan's Church should also be noticed. ROUTE No. 11. Waterford to Dublin, via Kilkenny and Maryborough. Time, 6 hours; fare, ~1 is. 11d. Leaving Waterford (see Route No. 9), we pass through Kilmacow and Mullinavat before reaching the station of Ballyhale, near which are situated the beautiful ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, founded by Donagh M'Gilla-Patrick, Prince of Ossory. 71 [IRELAND.] KILKENNY. KELLS. They combine the Anglo - Norman and Gothic styles of architecture. The tomb of the founder, ornamented with two recumbent figures, lies opposite the high altar. This abbey was at one time one of the finest and richest monastic institutions in Ireland. The lands extended over 1500 acres, while the buildings themselves covered an area of three acres. At the dissolution this was granted to the Earl of Ormond. The town of Kilkenny contains a population of 12,710 inhabitants, showing a gradual decrease. In 1841 it contained 20,625, and in '51,14,174. The " roving blades " of Kilkenny evidently know where they are best cared for, and the emigration to the United States is large and regular. The principal attraction is Ormond Castle, the princely mansion of the Butlers, whose ancestors purchased it from the Pembroke family in 1319: it was stormed by Cromwell in 1650, and a breach effected, but the besiegers were every time repulsed; the townspeople, however, proving traitors, and admitting the besiegers into the city, Sir Walter Butler, who was in command, deeming a longer resistance useless, and to save the unnecessary effusion of blood, surrendered. The greater portion of the castle is modern, and at present not only conveys the idea of strength, but of comfort. It is the residence of the Marquis of Ormond, and contains a fine picture-gallery. The Cathedral of St. Canice is one of the most interesting buildings in Ireland. Among the numerous monuments it contains is one to the Countess of Ormond, wife of the eighth earl. She was an Amazon, and lived in the style of Rob Roy, levying black-mail on her less powerful neighbors. Adjoining the cathedral is a round tower, 108 feet in height, and 47 feet in circumference at the base; the door is about nine feet from the ground, and the windows are wider than in most round towers. Kilkenny abounds in ruins of much interest, and several days may be very pleasantly spent here. St. John's, or the parish church, formerly an abbey dating from the 13th century, is called the Lantern of Ireland, owing to its numerous beautiful windows. Another object of interest is Black Abbey, also of the 18th century. Kilkenny has been the scene of several trials for witchcraft, nota72 bly that of Lady Alice Kettell in 1325. Congreve, Swift, and Farquhar were educated at Kilkenny in the college founded by Pierce Butler, Earl of Ormond, and afterward made a royal college by King James. An excursion may be made from Kilkenny to Callan and Kells, to visit two interesting ruins. Callan, 10 miles distant, was formerly a walled town of some importance. The Friary, founded by Sir James Butler in the 15th century, is a long aisled building, the choir of which is used as the parish church. The town of Kells, built by one of Strongbow's retainers, contains the ruins of a very interesting priory, founded by Sir Geoffrey de Monte Morisco in the 12th century. The building consisted of two courts, separated by a high wall, with a strong tower at each, and by a small branch of the King's River. The southern court, 400 feet square, contained no buildings, while in the second were situated the church, cloister, and abodes of the monks. The whole building has more of a military than an ecclesiastical appearance. About three miles south of the priory stands the round tower of Kilree, 96 feet in height, the conical top of which has disappeared: in the vicinity is a stone cross erected to commemorate an attempt made by Neill Callan, a king of Ireland, to save a retainer from drowning, by which he lost his own life. It was this occurrence which gave the name of King's River to the stream which flows past this spot. Returning to Kilkenny, and resuming our route, we pass through the stations of Ballyragget, Attanagh, and Abbeylix before reaching Maryborough. From here the route to Dublin through Kildare has already been described. (See Route No. 10.) WEXFORD. [IRELAND.] CARLOW. ROUTE No. 12. Wexford to Dublin, via Carlow and Kildare. This is not the shortest or most direct route from Wexford, but may be taken by those desirous of visiting Carlow. By rail from Wexford to Bagenalstown, and thence to Carlow, Kildare, and Dublin. Time, 5 hours 20 minutes; fare, first class, from Bagenalstown to Dublin, 12s. 9d. Wexford is situated on the side of a hill overlooking the estuary of the Slaney and Wexford Haven, and contains a population of 12,077. Hotel, White's. The harbor, although eight miles in length and three in breadth, can only be entered by ships of 200 tons' burden, owing to the existence of a bar at the mouth. Steamers leave here weekly for Bristol, also for Liverpool, which is 174 miles distant. Wexford was one of the first and most important maritime settlements of the Danes, and was also chosen by the Norman invaders as a landing-place on account of its proximity to England. It is a quaint and quiet little town, with streets so inconveniently narrow that it is nearly impossible for vehicles to pass each other in the different thoroughfares. The marriage of Basilica, sister of Strongbow, was celebrated here. Of the ancieiit walls which surrounded the town, only a few of the towers remain, which indicate the height and thickness of the walls. The ruins of Selsker Abbey, founded in the 12th century by the Lord of Fermoy, are situated at the west end of the town. Adjoining the tower is the modern church of St. Selsker, occupying the site of the ratification of the first treaty signed between Ireland and England in 1169. It is related here that the freedom of Wexford, and the exemption of its merchants from port dues, was obtained from Cromwell in exchange for the bells of this church, which were shipped by him to Liverpool. One of the most conspicuous objects in the town is St. Peter's College, situated on Summer Hill, attached to which is.a beautiful Roman Catholic Church. An excursion may be made from Wexford to the barony of Forth, a district situated a little to the south of the town, and extending to the sea-coast. It is inhabited by a race of people distinct in their habits, dialect, and appearance from the Irish popVOL. I.-T) ulation, and is believed to have been peopled by Strongbow with colonists from Wales. Towers and fortified houses abound, there being about 60 to be seen within an area of 40,000 acres. Another trip might be made from Wexford to Fethard, a small fishing-village, about 25 miles distant, situated on the west shore of Bannow Bay, whence a visit may be made to Tintern Abbey. This abbey was founded by the Earl of Pembroke, sonin-law of Strongbow, in the year 1200, and was peopled and named after a similar establishment in Moonmouthshire. It was erected in payment of a vow made by the earl when in danger of shipwreck, by which he swore to found an abbey on the spot where he should be landed in safety. The demesne of Tintern was granted by Queen Elizabeth to the Colclough family, who still retain the estate, and whose mansion was formed from the chancel, so that little of the abbey now remains but the tower. Leaving Wexford on our route to Car. low,we pass through Mackmine, Sparrowsland, Chapel Palace East, Ballywilliam, Glynn (containing the ruins of an ancient church, once dependent on the abbey of Kells), Borris, and Goresbridge Stations, bec fore reaching Bagenalstown, where we join the line running from Kilkenny to Kildare and Dublin. Bagenalstoun is a modern place, containing little to interest the traveler. Two miles west stand the ruins of Ballymoon Castle, an early Anglo -Norman fortress, with walls eight feet in thickness, forming a large quadrangle, at the north and south of which stand two square towers. Carlow, formerly styled Catherlough, or City of the Lake, is 11 miles distant from Bagenalstown. Population 7841. It is a handsome, well-built town, situated on the River Barrow,which is navigable by barges from here to Waterford. It was a place of importance as early as the 12th century, when a castle was erected here by the Lorddeputy Lacy to protect the settlers from the attacks of the Irish; the ruins of this building may still be seen on an eminence near the town. The Duke of Clarence established the exchequer of the kingdom at Carlow in 1361, and caused the town to be fortified. During the succeeding centuries the castle was many times besieged aid bombarded. It was seized in 1394 by Lord 73 CASTLEDERMOT.:[IRELAND.] ARKILOW. Fitzgerald, brother of the Earl of Kildare, but retaken in ten days by Sir Edward Poynings; again, in 1534, Lord Thomas Fitzgerald obtained possession, after renouncing his allegiance to Henry VIII.; and in 1642 the building was bombarded by a division of Ireton's army. Nothing now remains but two towers with their connecting wall, owing to an attempt made by a physician in 1814 to decrease the thickness of the walls of the castle, the site of which he had chosen for a lunatic asylum; the gunpowder employed worked so very effectively that almost no walls were left to tell their tale of ancient times. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of Carlow is a fine building, with a tower 150 feet in height, and containing a very good monument erected to the memory of Bishop Doyle. A college for Roman Catholic students adjoins the church. Coarse woolen cloth is largely manufactured at Carlow. The first station after leaving Carlow is Mageney, three miles from which Castledermot, once the residence of the royal Dermots, is situated; of the ancient splendor, nothing now remains but an old tower. The town was sacked by Bruce in 1316. The ruins of a Franciscan abbey, founded by the Earl of Kildare in the 13th century, are also to be seen here. Athy (population 4510) is passed about 15 miles before reaching Kildare. For the remainder of this route from Kildare to Dublin, see Route No. 10. ROUTE No. 13. Wexford to Dublin, via A rklow and Wicklow. Time, 4 hours 20 minutes. After leaving Wexford (see Route No. 12), the first place of interest on the line of railway is Enniscorthy, a pretty town, situated on the side of a steep hill on the right bank of the Slaney, with an old castle, owing its origin to Raymond le Gros. During the rebellion of 1798, Enniscorthy was.~74 the scene of a most bloody massacre committed by the insurgents, whose main force was encamped here, on the inhabitants of the town. About 400 persons were taken prisoners, and after being confined in an old windmill on the summit of Vinegar Hill, were finally put to death with pikes. Of the old Franciscan abbey, a single tower is alone standing. Eight miles north of Enniscorthy we reach Ferns, once the capital of the kingdom of Leinster, and a place of very great antiquity, which suffered much from the incursions of the Danes. A monastery was founded here in the year 598 by St. Eden, the site of which is now occupied by a modern cathedral, erected in 1816. Almost adjoining this church are the ruins of an Augustinian abbey founded by Dermot MacMorrogh in the 12th century; a tower of two stories, covered with moss and ivy, is all that now remains standing. The Episcopal Palace, built by Thomas Ram in 1630, adjoins the cathedral. The founder, being of very advanced age, caused the following inscription to be placed above the porch: "This house Ram built for his succeeding brothers: Tlhus sheep bear wool, not for themselves, but others." The castle, situated on the summit of the hill overlooking the town, was dismantled in the war of 1641 by the Parliamentary forces; one of the round towers, containing a chapel with groined roof, is still in a good state of preservation. Passing through Camolin and Gorey, we reach Arklow (population 5178). Hotel, Kinsela's. This town, situated on the seacoast 42 miles from Wexford, is prevented from assuming an important position as a sea-port by the occurrence of a sand-bar similar to the one obstructing the navigation of the Liffey. The inhabitants are chiefly supported by the herring and oyster fisheries, or by the produce of the copper and lead mines in the valley of the Avoca, which is brought here to be shipped by. a tramroad. This town once boasted a castle and a monastery; of the former, built by the Ormond family, a portion of a tower is alone standing. The road between Arklow and Wicklow contains little of interest. Wicklow (population 3448). This town was one of the earliest maritime stations DEVIL'S GLEN. LIRELAND.] GLENDALOUGH. of the Danes. The castle, begun in the f 12th century and finished in the 14th, stood l on a promontory near the town, on which r the remains of a tower may still be seen.c The town itself is particularly uninterest- a ing. Newrath Bridge is situated on the road from Wicklow to Bray, in the centre of what is called the Garden of Wicklow. t Should the traveler have time, it would be i as well to give up the railway here and ( continue his journey to Bray by car, pass- a ing through places which he would other- t wise visit by carriage fiom the latter place. i Hunter's Hotel, situated on the bank of the Vartrey, two miles from the station of i Newrath Bridge, is a convenient point ( from which to make the neighboring excursions. In the immediate vicinity is Rosanna, an estate belonging to the nephew of Mrs. Tighe, authoress of " Psyche." The first excursion should be made by 1 car to the Devil's Glen, a wild and narrow pass a mile and a half in length, through which the Vartrey takes its course, foaming and roaring over the rocks, and forming at the end of the glen a beautiful cascade. Cars are not allowed to enter the i glen, but are taken around to any point of egress indicated by the traveler. From i the View Rock, reached by a flight of steps, 4 a fine prospect may be obtained. From 1 here the traveler continues on his route, passes Ashford, and reaches Rathdruin, formerly the seat of an extensive flannel man- t ufacture; the town is situated on a hill crowned by a handsome Gothic church,] from which a fine view is obtained of the t valley of the Avoca, next crossed by the i tourist in order to reach Castle Howard. i Near the castle is the celebrated Meeting i of the Waters described by Moore, the spot ] on which the poet is said to have sat being 1 marked by a slab and a group of ever-I greens. The traveler may return to Rath- I drum through Glenmalure, another beautiful pass, with a fine waterfall. A mile and I a half from Drumgoff Inn, which is situ- I ated at one end of the glen, are the ruins of Glendalough, or the Seven Churches, reach- 1 ed by a road across the mountain ridge be- i tween Glenmalure and the adjacent valley. These ruins are situated on the borders of two lakes, in the midst of a lonely valley, and are all that now remain of what was once a good-sized city as well as a famous seat of learning. A monastery was first bunded here in the 7th century by St. Kevin, around which other buildings soon rose; and that the city was early a place )f importance is proved by the frequent ittacks made upon it by the Danes in the )th century. After being almost entirely reduced to ashes in 1020, it was rebuilt only;o encounter another form of destruction n a flood, 1177, while in 1398 it was burned to the ground by the English invading irmy, and never rebuilt. Chief among;he ruins is the round tower, built of grante and slate, and almost perfect in its preservation. The top having been torn off n a storm at the beginning of the present century, its height does not now exceed 110 feet. St. Kevin's Oratory, or Kitchen, as it is commonly called, is the most )erfect of the ruins; it is a small building?2 feet long by 15 wide, containing a broken cross brought here from Derrybaron, i neighboring estate, where fragments of ruins lie scattered in every direction. The abbey is situated on this estate; here the western wall is alone standing, covered with moss and ivy, and with a tree growing out of the masonry above the entrance. St. Kevin is believed to have been buried.n the crypt of this church in 618. The cathedral and Lady's Chapel stand side by side near the end of the Lower Lake, while Trinity Church, together with a stump of a round tower, is situated near;he village of Laragh; all these churches ire of very small dimensions. St. Kevin's Bed is a cavity in the face of the precipice;hat rises above the Upper Lake, and is reached by a narrow ledge along the cliff, to the foot of which travelers desiring to make the ascent are conveyed in a boat. Here, according to tradition, St. Kevin took refuge from the importunities of a blue-eyed Kathleen, who, in her devotion to the saint, begged to be his slave, lie at his feet, and do penance with him for his sins and her own. She even followed him to this lonely cave, but was hurled for her pains by the indignant saint into the lake below. Moore commemorates this legend in the following lines: "By that lake whose gloomy shore Sky-lark never warbles o'er, Where the cliff hangs high and steep Young Saint Kevin.stole to sleep. 'Here, at least,' he calmly said, 'Woman ne'er shall find my bed.' 75 G LENDALOUGH. [IRELAND.] BRAY. All! the good saint little knew What that wily sex can do. "'Twas from Kathleen's eyes he flewEyes of most unholy blue! She had loved him well and long, Wished him hers, nor thought it wron:g. Wheresoe'er the saint would fly, Still he heard her light foot nigh: East or west, where'er he turned, Still her eyes before hIin burned. "On the bold cliff's bosom cast, Tranquil now he sleeps at last; Dreams of heaven, nor thinks that e'er Woman's smile can haunt him there. But nor earth nor heaven is free From her power, if fond she be: Even now, while calmr he sleeps, Kathleen o'er him leans and weeps. "Fearless, she had tracked his feet To this rocky, wild retreat; And when morning met his view, Her wild glances met it too. Ah! your saints have cruel hearts Sternly from his bed lie starts, And with rude, repul-ive shock, Hurls her from the beetling rock. " Glendalougi, thy gloony wave Soon was gentle Kathleen's grave! Soon the saint (yet, all too late) Felt her love, and mourned her fate. When he said, ' Heaven rest her soul,' Round the lake light music stole; And her ghost was seen to glide, Smiling, o'er the fatal tide." The walls of the cave are covered with the names or initials of those who have undertaken the ascent, among others that of Sir Walter Scott, who came here in 1825. Near the village of Annamoe, which adjoins Glendalough Park, are the ruins of the ancient residence of the O'Tooles, kings of Wicklow. Returning to the line of railway which we left at Newrath Bridge, we continue our route to Kilcool Station, near which are situated the beautiful demesnes of Mount Kennedy, Glendarragh, and Altadon, as well as the Glen of Dunran. This glen, about two miles in length, stretches along the base of Carrignamuck. and runs almost parallel with the high-road. From Kilcool to Delgany the line runs along ledges of rocks or through tunnels and deep cuttings, until, at a little distance from the station, the Hydropathic Establishment, situated on an eminence overlooking the town, attracts the attention. Although the Glen of the Downs lies quite near Delgany, it had better be visited on an excursion from Brav. 76 Bray is a watering-place of very modern construction, which chiefly owes its importance to the numerous tourists who come here to visit the beautiful scenery of the Dargle, Devil's Glen, Glen of the Downs, etc. Being also only 40 minutes from Dublin, it is a favorite dinner resort for both citizens and strangers during the summer season. Hotel, Breslin's, situated on the beach. A few days may be spent here pleasantly while making the different excursions. The first of these should be made to the Dargle, Powerscourt, and the Bray Lakes, returning by way of Hollybrook and Bray Head. The Dargle is reached after a drive of a little over two miles; this beautiful glen derives its name from the stream which foams between its hills, and which forms at one place a fine fall, only to be seen at the bottom of the -glen, owing to the dense foliage which grows on either side. A glorious view may be obtained from the Lover's Leap, a high rock covered with moss, which projects across the glen. A short drive from here brings the tourist to Powerscourt, granted to the Wingfield family by James I. A permit from Lord Powerscourt's agent, living at Enniskerry, is necessary in order to visit the grounds. Here the chief attraction is a cascade 100 feet in height, which in dry weather is little more than a silver thread falling along the face of the rock, but after rains increases to a very fine fall. Returning to the carriage, the drive is continued along the Enniskerry road to the Bray Lakes, which lie in the midst of the Kippure Mountains, and which are renowned for their wild and beautiful scenery. On the road back to Bray the traveler passes Hollybrook, the estate and mansion of Sir G. F. J. Hodson, who has kindly opened them to the public. His house was once the residence of "Robin Adair," whose drinking-cup and harp are to be seen in the old oak hall. Bray Head, half an hour's drive from here, is a remarkable promontory, 807 feet in height, and very easy of ascent. Here a most extensive view may be obtained, of which we advise the traveler to profit before returning to Bray. The Glen of the Downs, five miles from Bray, should next be visited. Kil-rudderry the seat of the Earl of Meath, is passed on the way. This was formerly a BRAY HEAD. [IRELAND.]N NEW Ross. retreat of the monks of St. Victor, but was granted by Henry VIII. to the Brabazon family in 1545, to whom it has ever since belonged. The interior of the mansion is very fine; the staircase is of oak, with beautifully painted windows. The windows of the grand hall, reached from an outer hall filled with armor, contain a genealogical history of the Brabazons, painted by Hailes. The apartments are filled with pictures and sculptures; among these are a picture by Rembrandt of his wife, from the gallery of Cardinal Fesch, and a statue of Ganymede by Thorwaldsen. Among the family portraits, there are several by Lely and Kneller. In the grounds is a sylvan theatre, mentioned by Sir Walter Scott in a note to "St. Ronan's Well," and supposed to be of great antiquity. A carriage-road leads through the grounds to the summit of the Little Sugar Loaf, whence a fine and extensive view may be obtained. After leaving this estate, the road continues through a lovely country in sight of Down Mountain, 1233 feet above the level of the sea, and enters the Glen of the Downs. Here precipices rise on either side to the height of 500 or 600 feet, while beneath flows a small rivulet hidden by rocks and bushes. The glen is about a mile in length, and belongs on one side to the Powerscourt estate, and on the other is the property of Mr. Latouche. Leaving Bray for Dublin by rail (distance twelve miles), we pass a ruin called Puck's Castle, situated on Shankhill Mountain, where James II. took rest after the battle of the Boyne. Carrickmines, the next station, also boasts a ruined castle situated at the head of Glen Druid. The train then passes Stillorglin and Dundrum, and, after crossing the River Dodder, soon enters the Harcourt Road Station, Dublin, after a short journey of forty minutes. ROUTE No. 14. Cork to Wexford. By rail from Cork to Youghal; from Youghal to Waterford by mail-car; and by coach from Waterford to Wexford. Cork to Youghal, by rail, 1 hr. 9 min.; Youghal to Waterford, by car, 6 hrs. 50 min.; Waterford to Wexford, by coach, 6 hrs. 10 min. This route has already been described as far as Youghal (see Route No. 5). Taking the car from Youghal, we travel by a hilly road, crossing the mouth of the River Brickey to Dungarvan, a sea-port now containing little of importance or interest. Population 6520. Distance from Youghal, 14 miles. This was at one time a place of some importance. King John erected a castle here, of which only the keep now exists. During the time of Cromwell the town was saved from the horrors of a bombardment through the Protector's vanity having been flattered by a woman who drank his health near the entrance to the town. It is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. The ruins of Abbeyside are the most interesting thing to be seen at Dungarvan. They stand on the other side of the harbor, which is reached by a causeway and bridge from Dungarvan, and consist of a keep of a stronghold founded by the M'Graths; they also erected an Augustine monastery, which has been incorporated with a Roman Catholic church. We next reach Kilmacthomas, a small village, from which a pleasant excursion may be made to Lake Coomshingawn, a most romantic spot, where a wall of rock rises perpendicularly almost entirely around the water. For description of WVaterford, see Route No. 9. From Waterford to Wexford the scenery is in some places very lovely, as the road runs for some distance along the bank of the River Barrow. Eight miles from Wexford a road branches off to New Ross, a small town of 6772 inhabitants, situated on the side of a hill overlooking the Barrow. This place was founded by Isabella, daughter of Strongbow, soon after the invasion; it was surrounded by walls, fortified by a castle, and soon became a place of importance. Of the five original gates in the walls, only one (on the north), called the Bishop's Gate, is now standing. Dur77 QUIN. [IRELAND.] TUAM. ing the Parliamentary wars, Ross was garrisoned by the Royalists, who surrendered almost immediately after the arrival of Cromwell before the town; one of the gates took the name of Three-bullet Gate, from three cannon-balls fired into it by order of the Protector. There are some remains in the town of an old conventual church founded in the 13th century. Ross is a fine port, and carries on a very considerable trade in coal and grain. Wexford (see Route No. 12). ROUTE No. 15. Limerick to Boyle, via Ennis, Tuam, Dunmore, and Castlereagh; by rail from Limerick to Tuam, 7 hrs. 15 min.; by mail-car to Castlereagh; and by rail from Castlereagh to Boyle in 5 hrs. 35 min. Leaving Limerick (see Route No. 7), the line, after crossing the Shannon River, passes near Cratloe Station the ruins of three fortresses-Cratloe, Castle Donnell, and Cratloe-kul. Farther on, at the mouth of the Bunratty River, is the old castle of Bunratty, which serves as a police barrack, formerly belonging to the Earls of Thomond. After passing several stations, we arrive at Quin, a small town possessing one of the finest as well as best-preserved abbeys in Ireland. This building dates from the beginning of the 15th century, and was built by one of the Lords of Glencoillan. It consists of nave and chancel, with a tower rising from their junction. The choir contains a monument of the Macnamara family, also a good Crucifixion in stucco. Attached to the choir is a chapel containing a sculptured figure. The cloister is also in good preservation. Between Quin and Clare Castle a large number of ruined castles are passed. At the latter place the River Fergus enters the Shannon. The castle is situated on an island in the bed of the river, and is connected on both sides with the mainland by bridges. Clare Abbey was founded at the 78 end of the 12th century by Donagh O'Brien, King of Limerick: it is passed on the road to Ennis. Ennis, the county town, contains 6503 inhabitants. This was formerly the seat of the O'Briens, princes of Thomond, and was at one time famous for its Franciscan monastery, founded in 1240, which is now incorporated with the parish church. The town contains a good court-house of gray marble; also a column erected in commemoration of Daniel O'Connell, the Great Liberator. Three miles south of the town are the ruins of Killone Abbey, prettily situated on the banks of Lake Killone. This building was founded in the 12th century by a daughter of O'Brien, renowned for her deeds of piety and benevolence. The road from Ennis to Gort is dreary and uninteresting. Three miles from the latter is the village of Kilmacdnagh, containing a church built at the beginning of the 7th century by the King of Connaught for his kinsman St. Colman, who founded here a see, over which he himself presided. The church contains a remarkable cyclopean doorway, 6 feet 6 inches in height, with a lintel-stone extending the entire thickness of the wall, 5 feet 8 inches in length; this was closed up in the 14th century, when a new doorway was placed in the south wall. The round tower is believed to be the work of Gobhan Saer, who built the Glendalough and Antrim towers. It dates, like the church, from the 7th century, and is remarkable for leaning some 17 feet out of the perpendicular. The doorway is 26 feet from the ground. After passing through Athenry, we reach Ballyglunin Station, two miles from which are the ruins of Knockmoy Abbey, founded in the 12th century by Cathol O'Connor, King of Connaught, surnamed the Red Hand, to commemorate a victory gained over the English under Almeric St. Lawrence. The abbey was then called Crooc Muaidhe, or Hill of Slaughter. It is celebrated for the frescoes in its choir, which also contains the tomb of the founder; the frescoes are believed to be the work of the 14th century, but they are now fast disappearing. Twenty minutes from Ballyglunin we reach Tuam, an Episcopalian see and Catholic archbishopric. Population, 4938. This is a place of great antiq BOYLE. [IRELAND. ROSCREA. uity, and is believed to have possessed an abbey as early as 487, which was converted into a cathedral in the sixth century by St. Jarleth. Of the ancient church nothing but the chancel now remains, containing a most beautiful triumphal arch. The west door is a very fine specimen of ancient Norman work. The cathedral is now used as a parish church. The Cross of Tuam is made, like the cathedral, of red sandstone. On the base are inscriptions in memory of Turlough O'Connor, King of Connaught, and of O'Hoisin, the abbot. This cross was at one time broken into three pieces, which were possessed by different persons. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, of modern construction, is a very fine building. From Tuam we take a car to Dunmore, the road passing through most monotonous scenery, only relieved by views of the Slieve-Dart Mountains. At Castlereagh we take a branch of the Midland Great Western Railway, and, passing through Roscommon (see Route No. 21), Athlone, and Mullingar (see Route No. 19), reach Boyle, a pleasant town situated on the banks of Boyle River. Hotel, Monson's. Population 3161. The river is here crossed by three bridges, on one of which is a pedestrian statue of William III. The principal attraction of the town is the ruins of an abbey of Gothic architecture founded here in 1161 by Maurice O'Dubhay. It is situated in private grounds, but admission is freely granted; it is cruciform, and consists of a nave, 131 feet in length, separated from the aisles by semicircular arches, a choir, and transepts. The building has suffered much harsh treatment from English invaders; first in 1235, and again in the time of Cromwell, when the horses of his soldiers were stabled here. The tower, which is square and heavy in appearance, is supported by three Norman arches, and a fourth in the early pointcd style. The court-yard communicates by a subterranean passage with a barrack in the town; the offices are still in good preservation, and in the porter's lodge the names of some of Cromwell's soldiers are still to be found carved upon the doors. M'Dermot, King of Moylough, was buried in the abbey in the 12th century. The bridge adjoining these ruins is believed to be of as great antiquity as the abbey itself. The Church of Asselyn, situated on the banks of the Boyle, near Lough Key, is another interesting ruin in this neighborhood; there is also a cromlech on the road to Lough Gara, with a table-stone fifteen feet in length, and eleven feet in width, formerly supported by five pillars. ROUTE No. 16. Limerick to Dublin, via Roscrea, Maryborough, and Kildare, by rail. Time, 6 hrs. 45 min.; fare, Ils. 5d. The first station of importance passed on this road is Parsonstown, so named from the Parsons family, to whom the town and neighborhood belonged in the time of James I. The castle, which has been modernized, is at present the residence of the Earl of Rosse, so famous in the world of science for his improvements in the telescope. Permission is freely granted to visitors desiring to see the telescopes belongingto the earl. The town is situated on Canacor River, and is neat and well built; in the principal square stands a Doric pillar commemorating the victory of the Duke of Cumberland at Culloden. Roscrea, 11 miles from Parsonstown, is situated in a plain between the Slievebloom and Devil's Bit Mountains. Population 2992. It is a place of great antiquity, dating from the foundation of an Augustine monastery by St. Cronan in the 7th century. The only portion of the church remaining is the ancient doorway, with niches on either side, surmounted by a mutilated statue of St. Cronan. A round tower, eighty feet in height, standing in the cemetery, is in a good state of preservation; the door is fifteen feet from the ground. Close to this is an ancient cross, and a monumental stone, called the shrine of St. Cronan, on which a representation of the crucifixion is sculptured. The old Franciscan abbey, founded in the 15th century, has been incorporated in the Roman Catholic church. 79 KILLALOE. [IRELAND.] CLONMACNOISE. In addition to the ecclesiastical ruins, there is the keep of a castle erected by the Ormonds in the reign of Henry VIII., which now forms part of the town barracks, and a round tower belonging to the castle built by King John. Ballybrophy is the next station reached, where we join the main line of the Great Southern and Western Railway, described in Route No. 10. ROUTE No. 17. Limerick to Athlone, via Lough Derg and the River Shannon, by rail to Killaloe in one hour, thence by steamer to Athlone. Leaving Limerick by the Limerick and Castle Connell Railway, we reach in thirty minutes the latter place, passing on our route through an extremely fertile country. Castle Connell derives its name from an old castle, situated on a rock overhanging the river, which was built here by the O'Briens at an early period. The ruins consist of some crumbling walls, overgrown with ivy, and part of a tower; the keep was blown up by order of the Prince of Hesse, after a siege in which the Irish partisans of James II. held out against him. 'This castle was once the residence of the renowned Brian Boru, whose grandson was murdered here by the Prince of Thomond. At Castle Connell the rapids of the Shannon may be seen in all their grandeur; for a quarter of a mile this river, which above the rapids is 300 yards wide and 40 feet deep, is almost a cataract, pouring over huge rocks and stones with wonderful force, and somewhat resembling the rapids of the St. Lawtrence. O'Brien's Bridge is crossed a few moments after leaving Castle Connell; of the original structure but little now remains: it was partly destroyed in 1556 by the Earl of Ormond, and has since undergone frequent repairs. Kilaloe is the last station on our railway journey, and the point from which we em80 bark for Athlone. It is a small town of great antiquity, containing some 1207 inhabitants, chiefly employed in the slate quarries or salmon fisheries. Hotels, Royal and Albert. An old and interesting bridge of nineteen arches crosses the Shannon here. The cathedral, a fine building of the 12th century, occupies the site of an abbey founded in the 6th century by St. Molna; it consists of a nave, choir, and transepts, with a tower rising at their intersection. Notice a fine Romanesque doorway, now blocked up, believed to have been the entrance to the tomb of Muirchcartach O'Brien, King of Ireland. Within the church - yard is a second stone - roofed church, attributed by some to St. Molna, by others to St. Fiannan. Soon after leaving Killaloe, the steamer enters Lough Derg, which is 23 miles in length, and varies in breadth from two to six miles. After passing the site of Kinkora, the palace of Brian Boru, immortalized by Moore, we reach the ruins of Derry Castle, situated on a small island to the right. Farther on is Innis Celtra, "the holy island," concerning which there are many traditions. Here a monastery was founded by St. Cairnin in the 7th century, but later was destroyed, together with its churches, by the Danes. The buildings were afterward reconstructed by Brian Boroimhe, King of Munster, in 1027. The round tower, 80 feet in height, dates from the 10th century, and was the residence of St. Cosgrath, an anchorite, called "the Miserable." The steamer first stops at Druminur, where the ruins of a former stronghold of the O'Briens are to be seen. Above Williamstown, the next station, where pike and perch will be found in abundance by anglers,the lake grows narrower, and its shores, indented by numerous creeks, increase in beauty. After passing the ruins of Castle Terryglass on the right, we reach those of Castle Portumna, destroyed by fire in 1826, which are situated at the outlet of the lake. Portumni is the next station. Here the ruins of an ancient Dominican monastery are to be seen. After passing Banagher, near which stands the ruined castle of Garry and the Grand Canal, we approach Mount Shannon, and see on an island to the right the celebrated ruins of Clonmacnoise, of which Dr. Rodenburg gives the following description: ATHTLONE. [IRELAND.] LOUGHi CURRANT. " Close to the shore stands Clonmacnoise, one of the most remarkable ruins in this island of the saints. The banks rise here slightly, and on the grass-clad mound stand two round towers, ruins of churches, and a cemetery. On the first hillock are the sunken walls of an old ecclesiastical building; on another hill is the great round tower. The roof has disappeared, and a broad belt of ivy winds like a garland around its centre. Down in the bottom, rather farther inland, is the second round tower, still perfect, and behind it M'Dermott's Church,with its splendid round, arched portal, fresh as if carved but yesterday. From the mound of the great round tower to the second the ground is covered with upright gravestones, among which stands a ruin, St. Kieran's Church, where the saint himself is said to be buried. The wonder of Clonmacnoise is St. Kieran's Stone, a cross of rare beauty, covered with sacred images. A wall surrounds the holy spot, which is to this day the scene of many pilgrimages and processions." Soon after passing these ruins the navigation is stopped by a broad weir, over which the river falls like a cascade. Passengers are landed at a few minutes' walk from Athlone. Hotels, Royal and Bourke's. Population 5748. Here the scenery is flat and uninteresting, and there are few public buildings of importance. The situation of the town is important from a military point of view, and the castle, built in the reign of King John, has consequently been kept in good repair, and has been strengthened by additional fortifications. A portion of the ancient walls of the town are still standing. The bridge occupies the site of the ancient ford where the famous encounter of the armies of St. Ruth and Ginkell took place in 1691. A boat may be hired from Athlone to visit Lough Ree, which is entered about a mile and a half above the town. This lake, seventeen miles in length, is dotted with numerous small islands, many of which contain objects of interest. To visit Church Island, with its ecclesiastical remains, and the castles of Randown and Roscommon, a whole day will be required. ROUTE No. 18. Killarney to Kenmarf, via Valentia and Waterville. The distance from Killarney to Valentia is performed, first, by Bianconi's car as far as Cahirciveen, occupying four hours and a half, and thence by hack-car to Valentia. This is a very beautiful drive; beyond Ross Bay the road runs along the edge of the cliffs which form the base of Drung Mountain for a distance of several miles, and commands a fine view over Dingle Bay and the mountains on its opposite side. Turning inland and passing through Cahirciveen, we reach Reenard Point, and take the ferry for Valentia Island, two miles and a half distant. Close to the pier is a fine hotel, opposite which stands Ballycarbery Castle, the station of the Atlantic Telegraph Company. On the west side of the island are some fine slate quarries, which would well repay a visit. Magnificent views may be obtained from all parts of the island of the Kerry Mountains and Dingle Bay. On the mainland, thirteen miles southwest of Cahirciveen, is the bold promontory of Bohis Head, which rises from the sea to a height of 940 feet. Nine miles from here are the remarkable rocks, the Skelligs, beautifully described by Jean Ingelow. On the largest of these rocks there was formerly a monastery, of which some traces still exist, but the exposed position caused it to be deserted. Two light-houses now rise above the rocks, the highest being nearly 400 feet above the level of the sea. The route now continues onward to Waterville, a small village, situated on a narrow neck of land between Lough Currane and the sea. Lough Currane is well worth visiting for its beautiful scenery, it being after Killarney the finest lake in Ireland. It is noted also for the size and abundance of its salmon and trout. Boats may be hired for fishing, or for viewing the lake; in the former case the cost for man and boat is five shillings a day. The surface of the lake, which is dotted with numerous small islands, extendsthree miles 81 VOL. I.-D 2 STAIGNE FORT. [IRELAND.] MULLINGAR. into the heart of the mountains. On one of these islands some curious ecclesiastical remains are to be seen. Several miles from Waterville we pass Derrynane, the seat of the O'Connell family, beautifully situated on the margin of a creek, and surrounded by mountains. Farther on we reach Cove, from which place Staigne Fort may be visited, one of the most wonderful of the antiquarian remains to be seen in Ireland. It is a circular stone inclosure, put together without any mortar or cement, and is about 114 feet in diameter. The walls at the bottom are 13 feet thick, gradually decreasing to the top, where they are five feet two inches in thickness; within this wall are two small chambers. Wilde thus describes the interior:"Around the interior of the wall are arranged ten sets of stairs, the highest reaching nearly to the full height of the wall, and the secondary flight being about half that much. Each step is two feet wide, and the lower flights project within the circle of the higher. They had two narrow platforms, on which its warders or defenders stood. Although larger forts of this kind are known in Ireland, nothing so perfect in the construction of the staircases encircling the interior is to be found, with the exception of Dunmohr, in the middle island of Arran. A date of 2000 years can not be considered too old for this monument, which is still in a state of great preservation, and only to be equaled by those in Arran, which, however, do not evince so much care in their design and construction. What may have been the original Irish name of 'Staigne Fort,' which is quite a modern appellation, has not yet been determined." Returning to our car, we pass through Sneern, a small village at the mouth of a river of the same name, prettily embosomed in the midst of mountains. From here the road crosses the Blackwater, and con';inues along the right bank of the Kenmare River until it reaches the town of the same name. Kenmare (see Route No. 3). 82 ROUTE No. 19. Dublin to Galway, via Mullingar, Athlone, and Ballinasloe, by rail. Time, 5 hrs. 15 min.; fare, ~1 3s. 8d. The Continental system of coupons for the round has been adopted by the Midland Great Western Railway, and at a reasonable cost the whole of the grand and wild scenery of Connemara, the Isle of Achill, Sligo, and other interesting localities, may be visited. This company also issues coupons for a combined tour to Connemara and Killarney for visitors who reserve Killarney for the winding up of their trip ere re-embarking for America. Leaving Dublin by the Midland Great Western Railway, we pass near Clonsilla Station the Observatory of the Dublin University, to be seen on the left, while on the right stand the ruins of Castleknock, built during the reign of Henry II. by Hugh Tyrrell; this building was captured by Bruce in 1316, and again by Colonel Monk in 1642. After leaving Lucan, the line crosses the valley of the Rye by means of an embankment 100 feet in height, and reaches Leixlip, where the towers of a castle erected by Adam Fitz-Hereford, one of the Anglo-Norman conquerors, are still to be seen. The cascade formed by the Liffey, called the Salmon Leap, is near Leixlip. Fifteen miles from Dublin we pass Maynooth, where may be seen the fine buildings of the Royal College of St. Patrick, which, after long debate in the British Parliament during the present reign, was permanently endowed for the education of five hundred priests. None but those destined for the priesthood can enter here, and the course of study requires eight years. The most conspicuous object seen on the arrival at the station is the tower of the castle of Kildare, erected in the fifteenth century. It is at present the property of the Duke of Leinster, and will well repay a visit. From Fern's Lock the line passes through the dreary Bog of Allen to Enfield, whence there is little of importance until we reach Mullingar. Population5103. Thisisalarge assize town, carrying on an important trade in butter, frieze, and wool; it is also famous for its annual horse-fair. At Mullingar the traveler loses sight of the Royal Canal, which so far runs parallel with the ATHLONE. [IRELAND.] OUGHTERARU. railway, but here turns off toward Long- conspicuously before our countrymen afew ford. years since as the terminus of the "Lever" Ten miles from Mullingar we arrive at line of steamers, running between New Athlone (see Route No. 17), noted principal- York and Ireland. Travelers, before leavly for its siege in 1691, when the army of ing Galway, should visit the quarter called William III. hurled against its walls and Gladdagh, which is exclusively occupied castles over twelve thousand cannon-balls. by a peculiar set of people, mostly fisherThis town is an important military station, men, who never mix nor intermarry with containing barracks for two thousand men, the other inhabitants. They have a chief and fifteen thousand stand of arms. We among themselves, who decides all disnext reach Ballinasloe, a town of consider- putes, and who receives the title of King able size, containing some 4619 inhabitants, of the Gladdagh. A little farther westand renowned for its annual great cattle- ward of this place a beautiful view of the fair, which is attended by people from all bay and islands of Arran may be had. parts of Europe. At Kilconnel, six miles These islands, celebrated by the. poet farther on, are the ruins of a Franciscan Moore - "Oh, Arranmore, loved Arranmonastery, founded in the fifteenth cen- more"-may be visited by boats from Galtury. After leaving Woodlawn, once a place way, which go every few days. Tourists of importance, but now only remarkable visiting Connemara generally make Galfor its antiquities, the mountains of Con- way their starting-point. Three or four nemara come in view on the right. days or a week may be very pleasantly A thenry is next reached, a place renown- spent in this delightful district, where pubed in Irish history for the many desperate lic cars in connection with the railway encounters between the English and Irish run through the finest part of the scenery, forces which have here taken place. Popu- enabling those holding coupon tickets to lation 1199. The castle, dating from the return to Dublin by rail from Westport, thirteenth century, is admirably preserved, Ballina, or Sligo. as well as a Dominican abbey, which is Public cars leave Kilkee daily for Milone of the finest ruins in Ireland. townmalbay: Cliffs of Moher, LisdoonvarPassing on the left the ruined Castle Dor- na, and Ballyvaughan, en route between rydonnell, we now obtain a fine view of Killarney and Connemara. The Midland Galway, the capital of the west of Ireland, Great Western tickets, Nos. 3 and 4, are and the fifth city of Ireland in point of pop- available from Broadstone for Kilkee Cirulation and commerce. Attached to the cular Tour. railway station there is a fine hotel. Galway contained in 1861 a population of 16,448 inhabitants; in 1871, 13,184, being a falling off in ten years of over three thousand. The town is situated on the bay of the same name, where the western lakes of Ireland ROUTE No. 20. pour out their surplus waters. The city Galtway to Clifden, via Oughterard and owes considerable of its importance to its Bal.inahinch, by mail-car. Time, 7 hrs. 30 commerce with Spain, and its intercourse min.; fare, 8s. with that country may be seen in every A stage-car leaves Galway every morndirection, not only in the architecture of ing to perform this route, which extends the houses and appearance of the streets, through a fertile and well-cultivated counbut in the natives: one sees on every side try as far as Moycullen. From here exdark eves and dark hair, and black eyes tensive views are to be obtained of Lough and yellow hair are by no means of rare Carrib and of Ross promontory. Five miles occurrence. The principal public build- from Moycullen a natural limestone arch ings are the Queen's College, Custom- is passed, which crosses a stream flowing House, Chamber of Commerce, Royal In- under the walls of Aghanure Castle: this stitution,Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, is the ancient seat of the O'Flahertys, whose some monasteries and nunneries. There modern mansion is passed just before reachare also several breweries, distilleries, and ing Oughterard. numerous founderies. Galway was brought This is x small village, situated on the 83 CLIFDEN. [IRELAND.] ROUNDSTONE. banks of the Feogh River, where pearls are cinity and the views of the Atlantic to be frequently found. The Mauinturk Mount- obtained from the summits of the neighains and Twelve Pins now come in view, boring hills are very fine. together with Loughs Boffin and Ardden. An excursion may be made from here to Five miles from the Half-way House we Roundstone by taking Bianconi's car to reach Lough Gamorin: here a deep gorge Ballinahinch, and there engaging a car to opens on the right into the valley of Lough Roundstone, four miles distant. From BalInagh, affording a fine view of the Joyce linahinch the road runs along the left Mountains. The route now continues bank of the Owenmore, until after passing along the base of the Twelve Pins, skirt- Deraddia, a fishing station, when it crossing Lough Ballinahinch, until we come in es the stream by a three-arched bridge. sight of Clifden. The beauties of the road Near here stand the remains of Toombeola are thus described by Miss Martineau: Abbey, a Dominican friary founded by " There are few things in the world O'Flaherty in 1427. This building was demore delightful than a drive at sunset, on molished during the reign of Elizabeth, a bright evening, among- the mountains and nothing now remains but two gable and lakes of Connemara. It has the best walls and a doorway. qualities of the sea and land breeze at Roundstone, two miles distant, is situated once. Then there are the grand bare on the slope of the Urrisbeg, and on the mountains,the Bennobeola, or Twelve Pins, western side of Roundstone Harbor. It with caprices of sunlight playing about was at one time intended that this place their solemn heads, and shining into their should be the starting-point from Ireland dark purple depths, and below are waters to America, and for that purpose a pier untraceable and incalculable. We are here was erected and a good road made by the at the ends of the earth to all appearance; engineer Nimmo. Up to the present time, for the land is as a fringe, with the water however, Roundstone has been thrown into running in every where between its streaks. shadow by Galway, and it is doubtful There are salt waters and fresh; bays, whether it ever will assume a very imporlakes, river, dashing torrents, mirror-like tant position. Seal-shooting may be had pools, a salmon-leap here, an inlet for shell- in this neighborhood, as those animals are fish there, and, receding behind, Ballina- to be found in large numbers in Betraghhinch Lough, with its little island, just big boy Bay. Near the entrance to the harenough to hold the old castle, now a ruin, bor are several small islands, on one of where tradition says that 'Dick Martin' which the ruins of a chapel dedicated to used to imprison people who had been St. M'Dara, as well as a holy well, are to guilty of cruelty to animals. Close at be seen. The saint is supposed to have rehand are broken banks, gaudy with heath sided on the island. and bog flowers in vast variety; and beyond spreads the bronzed moorland, with foreign-looking goats, black and white, browzing in a group; and sea-gulls dipping, as if they took it for the sea. Along the road are brown-faced girls and boys, all healthy-looking, and many handsome; and women finishing their reaping and binding forthe day-their madder-red petticoats and blue cloaks throwing a wonderful charm of color into the scene." ROUTE No. 21. Clifden, beautifully situated at the head Dublin to Westport, via Mullingar, Athof Ardbear Bay, contains 1313 inhabitants. lone, Roscommon, Castlereagh, and CastleHotels, Carr's and Hart's. It is a pretty, bar, by rail. Time, 6 hrs. 55 min.; fare, ~1 modern town, with a court-house, church, 10s. 2d. schools, Irish Mission House, and an enor- For this route as far as Athlone, see mous work-house. Close to the town is Route No. 19. From Athlone, the Mayo a pretty cascade, formed by a stream rising Branch of the Midland Great Western stops in the Twelve Pins the walks in the vi- first at Knockcreghery, whence Rindown 84 la r " ~> oo~ IT) 23 o p " 11 I I I 7 - ROSCO~IMwON. [IRELAND.] WESTPORT. Castle may be visited. This is believed to have existed as a fortress of the Danes as early as the 9th century. It afterward belonged to the O'Connors until the 13th century, when it was taken by the English. Weld describes the castle as being built in the form of a letter P, the tail of which formed the banqueting-hall, and the upper part the keep. Ballymurry is the next station passed before reaching Roscommon. Hotel, Royal. Population 2722. This town contains little of modern beauty, but is chiefly visited for its castle and abbey. The castle, which is one of the largest in the kingdom, was built in 1268, although a fortress is believed to have existed here long before that time. It consisted of an enormous space inclosed by massive walls, which were defended at intervals by large towers semicircular in form. The building was habitable up to the reign of William III., when it was set fire to by the Irish escaping from the battle of Aughrim. The abbey, founded by Feidlim O'Connor, King of Connaught, in the 13th century, is situated in the lower part of the town. The church is 137 feet long, with a most beautiful window over the principal entrance; in the choir is the tomb of the founder, with a mutilated effigy, and the following inscription: ' Felim, son of Cathal Crovdearg O'Conor, the defender and supporter of his own province, and of his friends on every side; the expeller and plunderer of his foes;. a man full of hospitality, prowess, and renown; the exalter of the clerical orders and men of science; a worthy materies of a king of Ireland, for his nobility, personal shape, heroism, wisdom, clemency, and truth, died, after the victory of [extreme] unction and penance, in the monastery of Roscommnon, which he himself had granted to God and that order." In the monument the king is crowned and dressed in his robe of state; the tomb was originally divided into compartments, in which stood figures mailed and armed; many of these are now to be seen strewn in the burial-place. In the northern transept is an aisle, from which it is separated by round and massive pillars supporting four pointed arches. At Donamon, the next station, the line crosses the Suck, and, continuing along the stream, passes Ballymoe, and arrives at Castlereagh (see Route No. 15). Here the ancient circular cemetery of Cruachan may he visited. - It is surrounded by a stone ditch, much defaced,.and measures about 116 feet in diameter. Here are small circular mounds, which cover sepulchral chambers, built of stone, without any cemient, and filled with unburned bones. Outside the cemetery is the monument of Dathi, with a pillar of red sandstone. Nothing of importance is now passed until we reach Castlebar, a place containing about 3508 inhabitants. Hotel, Daly's. This is a pretty place, with the ordinary buildings of an assize town, viz., courthouse, jail, barracks, etc. The Lawn, the seat of the Earl of Lucan, the proprietor of this district, is well worth a visit. Castlebar is chiefly celebrated for an engagement which took place here between the French and the English, known as "Castlebar Races." The French landed, under General Humbert, at Killala Bay in 1798, and advanced and took possession of the town, which they soon evacuated before the advance of the Marquis of Cornwallis. Eleven miles from Castlebar we reach Westport (population 3863). Hotels, Eagle and Royal Mail. This town is situated about one mile from Clew Bay, and is one of the prettiest places to be seen by the tourist in Ireland. It consists of one long street, through the centre of which runs a mountain stream bordered with avenues of lime-trees, which form on each side a lovely promenade. The excursions in the vicinity of Clew Bay are very inviting, while the sea-bathing is unexceptionable. A considerable trade is carried on in corn and provisions. There is a courthouse, several banks, breweries, and distilleries, together with wharves and warehouses, and all the adjuncts of a thriving town. In the neighborhood of the town is the beautiful estate of the Marquis of Sligo, to which visitors are freely admitted. 85 - BALLINROBE. [IRELAND.] HEADFORD. ROUTE No. 22. Westport to Galway, via Ballinrobe and Headford, by mail-car.. A car leaves Westport daily (see Route No. 21) for Galway, and takes the direction of the Triangle, a name given to the place where roads branch off, on the right to Killery and Lough Mask, and on the left to Castlebar. From Clone, reached after crossing the river connecting Loughs Nacorralea and Nagaltia, we obtain our first view of Lough Mask, a lake ten miles in length by four in breadth, dotted with numerous islands. We are now in a perfect network of lakes and rivers. Crossing the small stream which connects the waters of Loughs Cloon and Mask, we reach Kilkeeran, and continue our drive along a small peninsula running between the latter lake and Lough Carra to Ballinrobe. This small town is situated on the Robe, about two miles above its entrance into Lough Mask. The scenery in the vicinity is very beautiful. Not far from Ballinrobe stands a ruined castle of the O'Connors, built on a small island in Lough Mask, and destroyed in 1586 by Sir Richard Bingham. There are about twenty islands on the lake, on the largest of which, called Inismaan, are the remains of a fort believed to have been built by the King of Connaught, who was slain in battle with the people of Ulster in 537. Here also are some ruins of a small but beautiful abbey. On the eastern shore of the lake opposite this island stand the ruins of an ancient stronghold of the Burkes. Here the country is flat and cultivated, but on the western shore the lake is bounded by mountains, highest among which rises Farmnanure, 2218 feet. From Ballinrobe we continue our route to Cong, passing on our way the ruined mansion of the Lords Kilmaine. Cong Abbey was founded as early as the 7th century, although no remains are now to be seen of more ancient date than the 12th or 13th century. Of these the gateway is perhaps the finest part. The architecture is of the decorated Norman style, and bears evidence to the splendor which once existed here. This was the place to which Roderick O'Connor, the last of the Irish monarchs, retired after his numerous defeats, and lived for fifteen years a life of entire seclusion, dying in 1198. His ashes 86 are by many said to be deposited in this abbey, while according to others the site of their interment is at Clonmacnoise. The Abbey of Cong was renowned for its ornaments and riches, of which we fortunately still retain an example in the "Cross of Cong," to be seen in the Royal Irish Academy, Dublin. The cross is two and a half feet high, of silver, washed with gold, richly chased, and studded with precious stones. It dates from the early part of the 12th century, and bears on its edges Latin and Gaelic inscriptions, giving the name of the king in whose reign it was made (Turlough O'Connor), that of a contemporary Church dignitary, as well as of the artist, who was an Irishman. It was made to contain a portion of the true cross, which was placed in a central crystal surrounded by gold. The tracery is of a style similar to the stone decorations of the period, and chiefly represents animals of various grotesque forms. In the neighborhood of Cong is a remarkable natural curiosity in the shape of a cavern, called the Pigeon Hole, fromn which a view may be obtained of the subterranean river which connects Lough Mask with Lough Corrib. This river, four miles in length, has apparently only a course of three quarters of a mile, the remainder being underground, and only seen or heard at rare intervals. The entrance to the Hole is covered with ferns and mosses, which increase the darkness in the interior; with the assistance of a guide, a flight of steps cut in the rock is descended, and a platform reached, from which, when the eye has become accustomed to the darkness, the river may be seen. A bunch of straw is generally lighted, and allowed to float along the stream to show the different windings of its course. There are several other and smaller openings leading to this river, in one of which, called the Horse's Discovery, there are stalactites. Continuing our route from Cong, we cross the Owenduff, near the ruins of Ross Abbey, and reach Headford, a small town belonging to Mr. St. George, whose residence is in the vicinity. Mr. St. George is also the owner of Ross Abbey, which is one of the largest and most beautiful buildings of the kind in Ireland, dating from the 15th century. Here the domestic arrangements of the monks are to be studied CLARE-GALWAY. [IRELAND.] SALROCK. in greater detail than in any other of the many ruined abbeys. After leaving Headford, we pass Cregg Castle, the birthplace of Dean Kirwan, and of his brother Richard, the chemist and geologist. Four miles to the left from here are the ruins of the Abbey of Anaghdown, situated on the shore of Lough Corrib, once a renowned ecclesiastical establishment,with a nunnery, Franciscan monastery, college, and abbey. Knockdoe Hill, the scene of a battle in 1504, is passed before reaching Clare-Galway, seven miles from Galway. This village is situated on the Clare-Galway River, and contains the ruins of a beautiful abbey, and an ivy-covered tower or keep of a castle, built by the De Burghs in the 15th century. The abbey dates from the 13th century, and was built by John Cogan, a descendant of one of the companions of Strongbow. The church consists of nave, choir, and transepts, with beautiful intersecting arches supporting a graceful tower of three stories, each lighted by a small square window. A portion of the abbey has been restored, and is now used by some monks of the order to which the building originally belonged. From here the road continues through a desolate-looking district until we reach Galway. (See Route No. 19.) ROUTE No. 23. Westport to Leenane and the Killery, by mail-car. Twenty miles. This drive is one of the most beautiful and interesting to be taken in Ireland. The road follows the course of the Erive, through dark ravines and precipitous glens, where the river forms a succession of cascades and rapids most lovely to behold. Croagh Patrick, a mountain 2510 feet high, is a conspicuous object in the landscape. Before reaching Leenane, the road runs around the head of the Killery, a name given to an arm of the sea, which runs inland to the very heart of the mountains for a distance of ten miles, strongly resembling a Norwegian fiord. The following description is given by Mr.Willis: ' Nothing can be finer than the mountain scenery all around. When you are in the middle of the bay you seem locked in on every side, and were it not for the smell, color, and vegetation peculiar to the sea, you would imagine you were on a mountain lake. But there is scarcely any lake that has not a flat, tame end, generally that where the superabundant waters flow off and form a river; but here nothing is tame: on every side the magnificent mountains seem to vie with each other which shall catch and keep your attention most. Northward the Fenamore Mountains, the Partree range to the east, Maumturk to the south; a little more to the southwest the Twelve Pins; then a little more to the west Renvyle Mountain, and to the north of that again the monarch of the whole amphitheatre, cloud-capped Mewlrea." A boat may be engaged at Leenane to row the length of the Killery, turning at the entrance into the Little Killery, at the head of which is Salrock. From the Pass of Salrock, which, according to tradition, was formed by the struggles of St. Roc (who had been chained while asleep by the devil, but who nevertheless made his way through the heart of the mountain by his miraculous exertions), a most glorious panorama spreads before the eye, stretching over the Killery and portions of the Atlantic,with here and there a verdant island. A car should be sent from Leenane to meet the tourist at Salrock, who may then return by the wild and beautiful glen of Lough Fee. From Leenane a road diverges to Tuam, via Maum and Cong, and another runs in the direction of Galway. 87 LbDNFORD. [IRtLAND.] RAGHLY. ROUTE No. 24. Dublin to Sligo, via Mullingar, Carrick, and Boyle, by rail. Time, 5 hrs. 40 min.; fare, ~1 5s. 2d. For this route as far as Mullingar, see Route No. 19, by the Midland Great Western Railway. At Mullingar a branch line strikes off to Sligo, on which Longford is the first station of importance. Edgeworthstown, passed eight miles before reaching Longford, derives its name from the Edgeworth family, of which Maria Edgeworth, the authoress, is a noted member. This family settled in Ireland during the reign of Elizabeth; their estate now includes Fir Mount, once the residence of the confessor of Louis XVI., the Abbe Edgeworth, who attended that unfortunate monarch to the scaffold. Longford is a thriving county town, containing about 4375 inhabitants, but with little to interest the traveler. Passing Dromod and Drumsna, through a fertile and well-cultivated country, we reach Carrick-on-Shannon, so called to distinguish it from other towns bearing the same name. It is the county town of Leitrim, and contains 1568 inhabitants. Boyle is next reached (see Route No. 15). Forty minutes' ride now brings us to Sligo, situated on the Bay of Sligo, and containing a population of 9340. It is the most important town in the west of Ireland, after Galway, and, although not remarkable for its cleanliness, possesses good quays, large warehouses and market-houses, together with several breweries and a large distillery. Hotel, Imperial. The River Garvoge, by means of which the waters of Lough Gill enter the bay, runs through the town. In the portion of the town which belonged to the late Lord Palmerston are situated the carefully preserved ruins of a splendid abbey founded in the 14th century by Maurice Fitzgerald. Notice here a carved-stone window above the altar, as well as a monument, in good preservation, of one of the O'Connors; on this the inscriptions are still legible. One of Sligo's chief attractions to travelers is its contiguity with one of the loveliest lakes in Ireland, viz., Lough Gill. The lake is best reached by taking a boat up the River Garvoge: it is five miles in length, and about one and a half in breadth, with numerous islands, on the largest of which, Church 88 Island, are some interesting ecclesiastical ruins; wooded hills rise on every side, in some places abruptly, in others sloping gently down to the water's edge, and affording every variety of scenery to delight the lover of nature's beauties. A greater portion of the lake belongs to the estate of Hazlewood, the seat of Mr. Wynne. From Knocknarea, an isolated limestone hill rising 1078 feet on the west of Sligo, a fine view may be obtained over land and sea; a large tumulus is to be seen on the summit of the hill. The entrance tothe Bay of Sligo is lighted by a beacon and two fixed lights on Oyster Island, as well as by a light-house on Black Rock, about two miles seaward. ROUTE No. 25. Sligo to Londonderry, via Ballyshannon, Donegal, andStrabane, by mail-car, 10 hours to Strabane, thence by rail to Londonderry. Sligo (see Route No. 24). The road from Sligo runs between the sea and a range of mountains, and after crossing the Elsinore promontory reaches Drumcliff, where portions of a round tower are to be seen, as well as two ancient crosses, all that now remain of a monastery founded here in 590 by St. C6lomb. A road leads off from here to the left toward Lissadill and Raghly. Lissadill is the seat of Sir Robert Gore Booth, the residence of whose ancestors, Ardtermon Castle, stands nearer to Raghly. The coast along here presents a scene of great desolation, owing to the drifting sands, which have gradually covered hundreds of fertile acres, and in which the ruins of an ancient church and many habitations now stand imbedded. Of late years only some endeavors have been made to check the progress of this devastation. Near Raghly is a singular deep cavity called the Pigeon-hole, into which the sea rushes with great force at high tides by means of several subterranean channels. Regaining the main route, the traveler sees BUNDORAN. [IRELAND.] STRABANE. about four miles off Streedagh Point the island of Inismurray, on which are some ecclesiastical ruins of great antiquity inclosed in a stone fort. Cliffony, belonging to the estate of the late Lord Palmerston, is next reached. Here the care taken by that nobleman in improving the condition of his tenants will be immediately remarked, there being an air of comfort and cleanliness often found wanting on other estates. From here the road hugs the coast as far as Bundoran. This is a favorite place of summer resort for the people of Enniskillen; it is beautifully situated on the shores of Donegal Bay, the cliffs of which present many natural beauties, having been worn by the action of the sea into most extraordinary forms; the most noticeable of these is the Fairy Bridge, consisting of a single arch twenty-four feet in span, most perfectly formed, and entirely without support. Ballyshannon, four miles distant, is situated on a steep hill overlooking the Erne, which is here crossed by a bridge of sixteen arches at a short distance above the celebrated falls of Salmon Leap. The height of the cliff over which the river falls is thirty feet-ten feet above high water. Here the salmon, which drop down the river in August and September, return in the spring months. " This can only be accomplished by an ascent of the fall at Ballyshannon. Traps are laid in different parts of the fall, with funnel-shaped entrances, into which the salmon swim, and are preserved until required for the market; intervals are also left between the traps, through which the fish reach the top of the fall by a spring of at least fourteen feet in height, though it is at low water that the scene of leaping is displayed with the greatest activity." — Wright. Of the Castle of Ballyshannon few traces now remain; numerous Danish raths may be seen, however, in the northern part of the town, in the parish of Kilbarron. To the northwest are the ruins of Kilbarron Castle, situated on a precipitous rock overlooking the sea. This was an ancient stronghold of the O'Clerys, so renowned in history, science, and poetry. The leader of the illustrious Four Masters was Father Michael O'Clery, of this family. From here to Donegal the route is dreary and uninteresting. Near the village of Ballintra is a locality called the Pullins, where the Ballintra River cuts through a bed of solid limestone to a depth of thirty to forty feet, and flows for a considerable distance through this narrow fissure, sometimes disappearing in caves, and only bounding forth into scenes of greater grandeur and magnificence. Donegal is a small town situated at the head of Donegal Bay, and at the mouth of the River Esk. Little trade is carried on here, owing to numerous shoals in the harbor. Here the ruined castle of the O'Donnells is the principal object of interest. It is now the property of the Earl of Arran. Near the river are also the remains of a Franciscan abbey, founded by Hugh Roe, son of O'Donnell, in 1474. Here the famous "Annals of the Four Masters," sometimes known as the "Annals of Donegal," were compiled. An excursion may be made from here to Killybegs, a small sea-port, containing some slight vestiges of an ancient church and castle. The drive to this town is very beautiful. Continuing our route to Strabane, the road takes us through the Gap of Barnesmore, a magnificent mountain pass, past Lough Mourne and its castle, to Ballybofey and Stranolar, the latter place being connected with Strabane by the Finn Valley Railroad. Strabane is a small town of 4615 inhabitants, situated on the Mourne, near its junction with the Finn, and belonging to the Marquis of Abercorn. Hotel, Abercorn A rms. Flax is raised here in large quantities, and the town contains one of the best linen markets in the north of Ireland. Trade is carried on by means of a short canal running to the navigable portion of the Foyle. Although a clean and wellbuilt place, there is little to detain the traveler on his route to Londonderry, which is reached from here by rail in forty minutes.: Londonderry, which contains a population of 20,519 inhabitants, is beautifully. situated on the west bank of the River Foyle, five miles distant above its entrance into Lough Foyle. Principal hotels, Imperial and Commercial. The city is well built, lighted, and paved. In the centre is a square called Diamond, from each side of which a handsome street leads to the four principal gates of the city. The sub89 LONDONDERRY. [IRELAND.] ENNISKILLEN. urb of Waterside, on the opposite side of the river, is connected with the city by a bridge erected in 1789 by an American. Derry is noted for the noble manner in which it withstood the siege of King James's forces in 1689. An anonymous letter having been received by a Protestant nobleman-Earl of Mount Alexander -that on a certain day all the Protestants in Ireland were to be murdered by the Catholics, in accordance with an oath they had all taken, and that a captain's commission would be the reward of the party that murdered him, he gave the alarm, which spread to Derry. While the bewildered citizens ran through the streets, some dozen of the apprentice-boys seized the keys, and just as Lord Antrim's troops reached the Ferry Gate, drew it up, with some slight resistance from the guard. They sustained the siege for 105 days, and were reduced to the extremity of eating dogs and rats. A boom was placed across the river to prevent supplies from reaching there. One of the supply frigates, however, under the command of the Orange Admiral Kirk, with all sails spread, "dashed with giant strength against the barrier, and broke it in two, but from the violence of the shock rebounded and ran upon the river's bank. The satisfaction of the enemy was displayed by an instantaneous burst of tumultuous joy. They ran with disorder to the shore, prepared to board her, when the vessel, firing a broadside, was extricated by the shock, and floated out nobly into the deep again." It is said over 2000 died by famine during the siege. The principal buildings are the Cathedral and Bishop's Palace. The former is a handsome Gothic edifice, from the top of which is obtained a fine view of the city and the surrounding country. The Cathedral contains the colors taken at the siege of Derry, also a handsome monument to Bishop Knox. The chief ornament of the city is the fluted column erected to the memory of its heroic defender, Rev. George Walker. Steamers leave Londonderry for Glasgow about five times per week. Fare, $3; time, one night. 90 ROUTE No. 26. Dublin to Ballyshannon, via l ullingar, Cavan, Clones, and Ennislil!en, by rail. Time, 7 hrs. 12 min.; fare, ~1 6s. For this route as far as Mullingar, see Route No. 19. Cavan is reached by a branch line of the Midland Great Western Railway in 1 hr. 45 min. from Mullingar. This is a small town containing 3389 inhabitants, with but little to interest the traveler. Clones is an ancient town, situated on a steep hill, at the foot of which lie the ruins of an abbey dating from the 6th century. Here also is a round tower, minus its top, with a roughly built exterior, but of smooth limestone in the interior. On the summit of the hill is a fine church, situated on the market-place, and an ancient cross in rather good preservation, called the " Cross of Clones." Population 2150. Enniskillen, one of the prettiest places in Ireland, is next reached. It is the county town of Fermanagh (population 6152), and is beautifully situated on an island in a small river that connects the two Loughs Erne. Hotels, Imperial and White Hart. This town has a thriving, business-like appearance not often seen in Ireland; it consists principally of one long street, with clean, well-built houses, and possesses, besides the usual buildings of a county town, the Royal School of Portora, founded by Charles I., and two small forts. Cutlery and straw plait are the principal manufactures, in which a considerable trade is carried on by means of a railway, communication with the sea being obstructed by the Falls of Ballyshannon, which occur between the lower lake and Donegal Bay. The banners borne by the people of Enniskillen at the Battle of the Boyne are preserved in the town-hall. From the summit of a hill above the railway station, on which stands a column erected in memory of Sir Lowry Cole, a fine view of the town and island may be obtained. Enniskillen is a good point from which to make the tour of Loughs Erne, which may be done either by steamer, boat, or by stage-car from here to Ballyshannon. The River Erne first rises in Lough Gowna, and, passing through Lough Oughter, expands some miles below Belturbet into a large sheet of water called the Upper Lake., 040 0 0~ CZ io[ P4 ItS -V0 DEVENISH ISLAND. [IRELAND.] NEWTOWN-STEWART. Here the scenery is rather tame, until at Belleisle the waters again take the form of a river, and flow for ten miles through a most lovely country, their course interrupted by numerous small and verdant islands, of which the lake contains over one hundred. From Enniskillen the Lower Lake extends about twenty miles in a westerly direction, until, just before reaching Belleek, the waters are again contracted into a narrow space, and fall from a height of fourteen feet, from which point to Ballvshannon the river forms a series of rapids. The largest and most interesting isle of the Erne archipelago is Devenish Island, containing about eighty acres of land. Here stand the ruins of two churches attributed to St. Molaisse, who lived in the 6th century. Of these, the upper church or abbey is in much the best state of preservation; and, having been frequently plundered by the Danes, it was probably rebuilt in the 12th century. Of the lower church only a portion of the walls remain. In its vicinity is a small stone-roofed building called the Cell of St. Molaisse, which strongly resembles St. Kevin's Kitchen at Glendalough. A round tower, seventy feet high, stands in the northern part of the island. The door is situated nine feet from the ground, and is reached by three steps made in the stones; it is lighted by the usual four windows, with a keystone ornamented with grotesque heads above each. The conical roof has been restored. The drive from Enniskillen to Ballyshannon runs through scenery as lovely as any to be seen in the world, and, should time permit, we would advise proceeding by car to Ballyshannon instead of by rail. Ballyshannon (see Route No. 25). ROUTE No. 27. Dublin to Londonderry, via Mullingar, Clones, Omagh, and Strabane, by rail. Time, 7 hrs. 40 min.; fare, ~1 10s. Dublin to Mullingar (see Route No. 19). Mullingar to Clones (see Route No. 26). Armagh, passed on the road from Portadown to Clones, is a cathedral city, celebrated in ancient times, but with little now to show in proof of that celebrity. A church was founded here by St. Patrick in the 5th century, around which a city quickly grew, only to be subjected to numberless misfortunes: after being repeatedly plundered and burned by the Danes, it was set on fire by O'Neil, a native chieftain, in 1566, when the church was completely destroyed. The city is prettily situated on the sides of a steep hill, on the summit of which stands the Cathedral, a cruciform church with a low tower, formerly surmounted by a spire. Armagh is the county town, and contains about 8946 inhabitants. Omagh, the county town of Tyrone, and containing 3661 inhabitants, is situated on a steep hill overlooking the railway: it contains little that need detain the traveler. From here to Strabane the railway follows the course of the River Strule, passing on the left bank Newtown-Stewart, formerly an important military station, with the name of Lislas. It was granted by Charles I. to Sir William Stewart, from whom its modern name is derived. A house is still shown in the main street in which James II. slept on his way to Londonderry, after which the town was burned by his order, and not rebuilt until 1722. Near the town, on the summit of a hill, stands an old ruin called Harry Ivery's castle. For the continuation of this route from Strabane to Londonderry, see Route No. 25. ROUTE No. 28. Dublin to Belfast, via Droqheda and Dundalk, by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 20 min.; fare, ~1 13s. 4d. From Dublin to Drogheda the distance is thirty-two miles. This town is pleas91 THE BOYNE. [IRELAND.] BELFAST antly situated on the River Boyne, and contains nearly 15,000 inhabitants. Imperial Hotel the best. There is but little to detain the traveler here, if we except the ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary d'Urso and the abbey of the Dominicans; even these are difficult to see from their position. The spinning of flax is now the principal occupation of the inhabitants. The River Boyne is here crossed by a magnificent bridge, from which a fine view may be had. The Boyne is celebrated in history, the banks being the battle-ground where the forces of James II. and those of his sonin-law, William, Prince of Orange, met July 1st, 1690. The engagement is known as the " Battle of the Boyne." The forces were equally divided, 30,000 on a side. The prince was the victor. James fled to France, and the victory secured to the country liberty, law, and religion. The brave Duke of Schomberg, who commanded the prince's forces, was killed on the field: see the monument erected to his memory. Kohl says: " James displayed but little courage in this memorable battle. lie abandoned the field even before the battle was decided, and made a ride of unexampled rapidity through Ireland. In a _few hours he reached the castle of Dublin, and on the following day he rode to Waterford, a distance of 100 miles. Never-.theless, James sought to throw the blame of the whole defeat on the Irish. On arriving at the castle of Dublin, he met the Lady Tyrconnel, a woman of ready wit, to whom he exclaimed, 'Your countrymen, the Irish, can run very fast, it must be owned.' 'In this, as in every other respect, your majesty surpasses them, for you have won the race,'" was the merited rebuke of the lady. The day after the bat-. tle Drogheda opened its gates to the En-; glish army. It is one of the many towns which experienced the rigor of Cromwell's severity during the merciless campaign of 1650, nearly the entire garrison, with great humbers of the inhabitants, having been put to the sword after a successful siege. One hundred of the inhabitants having taken shelter in St. Peter's Church steeple, Cromwell ordered it to be fired, and burned them up. The slaughter was continued -for five days. The linen trade, which is very extensive 92 in the north of Ireland, forms the staple of Drogheda. The Earl of Desmond, Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, was beheaded here in 1467 for kindness shown toward the Irish people. A visit (if stopping at Drogheda) should be made to Mellifont Abbey, distance five miles, and Monasterloice, six miles distant. The round tower of this last dates from the 9th century. There are some fine antique crosses here, the largest of which is twenty-seven feet high, and contains a Gaelic inscription concerning Muredach, a king of Ireland who died in 534. We next approach Dundalk, a manufacturing town of 11,327 inhabitants. Its principal trade is in flax and corn. Arthur's Hotel the best. Dundalk is noted for the sieges it sustained from Edward Bruce in 1316, from the O'Neils, and from Lord Inchiquin in 1640. Edward Bruce was here crowned king of Ireland. He resided in Dundalk for two years, and was killed near the town in an engagement with the English. After Scotland had gained her independence at Bannockburn, the Irish invited Edward, brother of Robert Bruce, to take possession of the crown of Ireland. Ile was the last monarch, and Dundalk was the last town in Ireland where a monarch was crowned. The town has a fine park, and Dundalk House and grounds, the residence of Lord Roden, are open to visitors. Fifty-eight miles more and we arrive at Belfist, the metropolis of the north of Ireland. Different from most cities of Ireland, it shows a continued increase in population. In 1851 it contained 100,945; in 1871 it amounted to 174,394. Hotel Imperial, one of the best in Ireland, ably conducted by Mr. Jury, elder son of the late proprietor of the Shelbourne, Dublin, and Brother of the proprietor of Jury's Hotel. The whole city of Belfast, whose population and prosperity have so rapidly increased, stands on the territory of the Marquis of Donegal, to whose ancestors it was awarded by James I. when Belfast was a small village, and formerly returned that nobleman a million and a half of dollars per annum. Belfast is a great seat of both linen and cotton manufactures. It possesses a large foreign trade, as well as extensive intercourse with the ports of the Scotch and English coast, especially with Liverpool, to which it sends great quanti II I Tarer s d I% BELFAST. [IRELAND.] CG(AVE HILL. ties of cattle and agricultural produce. The city has a cheerful aspect: the streets are wide and well paved, and the houses mostly of brick, and well built. Belfast contains an important collegiate establishment, entitled the Belfast Academical Institution, and is also the seat of the queen's colleges. One of the most elegant edifices in the town, finished in the Italian style, is that which contains the offices of the harbor commissioners: it has a fine clocktower, and the whole building is constructed of cut stone. The first Bible that was ever printed in Ireland was published at Belfast-the printing of this volume did not occur, however, until 1794; no printing-press was brought here until 1696, Ireland being far behind even Russia in this respect. The public buildings are mostly of modest appearance. The Commercial Buildings contain handsome readingrooms, well furnished with newspapers. The Bank of Belfast presents in its style of architecture a mixture of Doric and Corinthian, and is quite attractive in its appearance. The First Presbyterian Meeting-house, in Rosemary Street, is elegantly decorated inside; the ceiling is elaborately ornamented in stucco; a portico, composed of ten Doric columns, with an elaborate balustrade, renders the exterior worthy of observation. The Belfast Museum contains a large collection of Irish antiquities, and the building is rich in design and execution. The Custom-house, Post-office, and St. Patrick's Cathedral are among the other principal buildings. The Queen's Bridge, which occupies "the Great Bridge of Belfast," is very elegant, large, and substantial. Beyond the Presbyterian College, a very magnificent building, is the Botanical Garden, established in 1830. It is the next finest in Ireland to that of Dublin, and even possesses many advantages over the latter. The flax-mills of Belfast are perhaps the most interesting sights in the city; one of each kind should be visited, that is, those worked by steam and by hand. The largest steam-mill is that of the Messrs. Mulholland, who, it is said, directly and indirectly, employ twenty-five thousand men; but the finest linen and damask is only made by hand, and the process of forming and weaving the different patterns is decidedly interesting. The best establish ment to visit is that of Mr. Michael Andrews, at Ardoyne, about one mile out of the city. The whole establishment may be seen between 10 and 12 and 3 and 5 every day of the week. Here many of the first families in Europe have their coats of arms drawn and woven in their napkins, table-cloths, etc. The proprietor allows no gratuity to be received by the persons showing the establishment. Steamers are leaving the harbor of Belfast for Liverpool, Dublin, Glasgow, Carlisle, and Dumfries almost daily. Travelers should also extend their visit to Cave Hill, about two miles, whence a most glorious panoramic view may be obtained of the surrounding country. The hill takes its name from three caves, which may be seen on its perpendicular face. On its summit is an earthwork, which was one of the strongholds of Brian M'Art, whose clan was exterminated in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. ROUTE No. 29. Dublin to Kingstouwn, and excursions in the vicinity, by rail. Time, 30 minutes; fare, Is. Trains run every half hour between Wcstland Row and Kingstown from 6 A.M. until 11.;0 P.M., stopping at Booterstown, Blackrock, Seapoint, and Salthill. For description of the sea-port of Dublin, see Route No. 10. 93 CASTLE-BLAYNEY.:[IRELAND.] COLERAINE. ROUTE No. 30. Dundalk to Enniskillen, via Castle-Blayney and Clones, by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 30 min.; fare, 19s. Leaving Dundalk by the Dundalk and Enniskillen Railway,we first reach the station of Inishkeen, close to which stand the ruins of an abbey and round tower, as well as an old stone cross, prettily situated on the banks of the Fane. The line follows the course of this stream until Culloville is passed. Castle-Blayney, formerly belonging to the late Mr. Hope, is a thriving town, with an adjoining estate as fine as any in this part of Ireland. It embraces the entire extent of Lough Muckno and its pretty islands, and is charmingly planted, beeches and walnuts predominating. The ruins of an ancient castle are to be seen on one of the islands in the lake. Ballybay, a small town situated in a valley, and principally engaged in the linen trade, is reached after skirting the base of several hills. Passing through Newbliss, the River Finn is crossed, from which point to Clones the line runs through a most beautiful tract of country. For description of Clones, and route from Clones to Enniskillen, see Route No. 26. ROUTE No. 31. Belfast to Londonderry, via A ntrim and Coleraine (branch to Portrush and Giant's Causeway), by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 55 min. Belfast (see Route No. 28). About ten miles from Belfast we pass the town of Carrickfergus, which contains 4212 inhabitants, most of whom are of Scotch descent. The principal object of attraction is the Castle, which was built by a De Courcy in the 12th century. It was captured from the English by Bruce, at whose death it again reverted to them. It is at present used as a garrison by a company of artillery. Twelve miles, and we ariive at An94 trim, a town of 2000 inhabitants, close to Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the British Islands, and only surpassed in size by that of Geneva in Switzerland, and Ladoga and Onega in Russia. In the immediate vicinity is Antrim Castle, with its beautiful park and grounds. This fine old structure is the seat of Viscount Massareene. A short distance beyond Antrim we pass the deer-park of Shane's Castle, the seat of the famous race of heroes the O'Neils, who were for ages the lords of Ulster. The Red Hand in the arms of Ulster, which were the arms of the O'Neils, is thus accounted for: When Ireland first was conquered or settled, it was permitted to the person who should first touch the ground that he should be its chief. O'Neil, who was one of the party that first approached the shore, cut off his hand and threw it on the bank, thereby first touching the ground, and from this individual sprung the royal race. The waters of Lough Neagh are celebrated for their healing of scrofulous diseases, and for their petrifying properties, requiring but a few years to turn wood into stone. Thirty-six miles more, and we reach Coleraine, which contains 6399 inhabitants. It is a place of great antiquity, but there is nothing of interest to be seen. Here travelers to the Giant's Causeway change cars for Portrush, which is but 20 minutes distant from Coleraine. Carriages may be had at the station or hotel to convey tourists to the Causeway. (See Route No. 35.) Coleraine is beautifully situated on the River Bann, which is noted for its fine trout and salmon fishing; this is best obtained between Kilrea and Toom, where the river makes a fall over a ledge of rocks thirteen feet high, called the Salmon Leap. From Coleraine the railway turns toward the mouth of the Bann, and runs along the shores of Lough Foyle. Beyond Downhill the line skirts the base of the Magilligan cliffs as far as Magilligan junction, at which point they attain their greatest elevation. Here a branch line diverges to Magilligan Point, which is reached after arriving at the station by an hour's walk between Lough Foyle and the cliffs. A ferry takes travelers desiring to cross the lough to Inishowen Head and Greencastle, the ruined stronghold of the O'Doughertys. ;IAGILLIGAN. [IRELAND.] CALE DON. The following description is given by Mr. Fraser of Mlagilligan: "A singular combination of picturesque beauty and grandeur presents itself at Magilligan. Here the cliffs, every where striking, increase in altitude, and the pastoral banks which they cap are here much more varied by verdant knolls, sylvan dells, and terraced platforms. High on one of the latter,with several cottages, stands the church of Magilligan, one of the most singularly and romantically situated of all our sacred edifices. Overhung by the towering cliffs, and looking across the sandy plain, succeeded by an arm of the sea, and terminated by the lofty mountains of Inishowen, few situations are better calculated to excite emotions allied to devotional feelings -the feelings in unison with all around." At Bellarena, the first station on the main line after Magilligan,the cliff scenery ends, and the road passes through verdant pastures, many of which have been reclaimed from the encroachments of the sea. From Culmore the line runs along the banks of the Fovle until it reaches Londonderry, already described in Route No. 25. ROUTE No. 32. Beyfast to Enniskillen, via Portadown, Artnagh, and Clones, by rail. Time, 4 hours.; Fare, 15s. 4d. Most townis of importance on this route have been already described in Routes No. 26 and 27. After leaving Belfast, the line runs along the line of a base of chalk rocks, which gradually diminish in height, until Lurgun is reached. This is the most southerly point at which chalk strata are to be observed in Ireland. Lisburn, passed seven miles from Belfast, is a prosperous town of some 8816 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the manufacture of damasks. The town contains a handsome cathedral church, and a castle built during the reign of Charles I., the grounds of which are open to the public. Between Lisburn and Moira the line passes the Maze, a common where the Hillsborough races are run. Moira once boasted a round tower sixty feet in height,which has unfortunately fallen to the ground. Near it stand the remains of an old church. Lurgau is the last station before reaching Portadown, an important railway junction, whence the Dublin and Belfast, Clones, Ulster, and Dungannon lines all radiate. This town is situated on the Bann, and contains about 6735 inhabitants, who carry on an extensive trade in linen and agricultural products. Armagh is reached in thirty minutes from Portadown. (See Route No. 27.) Killyleagh, beautifully situated on the shores of Lough Strangford, is renowned as being the birthplace of Sir Hans Sloane, the founder bf the British Museum. On the summit of a hill, back of this town, stands an ancient castle, dating from the reign of King John, which has been beautifully restored. Caledon, formerly known by the name of Kennard, where in the seventeenth century Sir Phelim O'Neil made his head-quarters, and defended for several years the County of Tyrone from the invading English, is the next station. Glasslough is passed before reaching Monaghan, a modern town, containing little to interest the traveler. Smithborough is the last station at which the line stops before reaching Clones. For remainder of this route, see Route No. 26. ROUTE No. 33. Newry to Belfast, via Rostrevor, Newcastle, and Downpatrick, by rail from Newry to Warrenpoint, thence by car to Downpatrick. Fare, 5s. Thence by rail to Belfast in 1 hr. 28 min. Newry is reached by a junction on the Belfast and Drogheda Railway; it is be95 NEWRY. [IRELAND.] DUNDRU.5. lieved to date from very ancient times, as an abbey was erected here by Mannie MacLoughlin, King of Ireland, in 1157, of which no traces now remain. Hotels, Victoria and Newry Arms. The town is situated on the Newry River, a few miles above Carlingford Bay; the older portion stands on the eastern side, in the County of Down, and is built on a hill, upon which the streets rise one above the other. The modern part of the town is situated on the opposite side of the river, in the County of Armagh, and is connected with the other by four stone bridges. The appearance from a distance is very picturesque, but on nearer approach the beauties fade, and the town may be found rather dull and uninteresting. Dean Swift gives the following description of the place: " igh church, low steeple, Dirty streets, and proud people." The port of Newry is capable of admitting vessels of 1000 tons, which can not, however, go farther than Warrenpoint, six miles from the town; those drawing only fifteen feet of water can reach Newry by means of the ship canal. A considerable trade is carried on with England, America, and the Baltic, and corn and provisions are largely exported. Steamers ply from here to Liverpool, 153 miles. The town contains several fine modern churches; there is also a rath, which would interest the antiquary, situated near Crown Bridge; it is surrounded by a ditch 600 feet in circumference. Population 13,397.. Leaving Newry from Dublin Bridge or Edward Street Stations on our way to Warrenpoint, we pass, four and a half miles, Narrow Water, where a low rock protrudes into the river, on which is situated an old castle, commanding completely the entrance to Newry. It consists of a square battlemented tower, believed to have been' built by the Duke of Ormond in 1663. It is the property of Mr. Roger Hall, whose modern Elizabethan mansion stands to the right of the old castle. Warrenpoint; the port of Newry, is a pretty modern town, much frequented for bathing purposes. On the opposite side of the bay lies the village of Omeath. The drive from Warrenpoint to Rostrevor is of unequaled beauty, there being a combination of mountain and coast scenery,aand Car96 lingford Bay presenting the appearance of an extensive lake surrounded by woods and hills. Pretty villas and country-seats line the road. On'the beach, near Drumsisk, stands an obelisk, erected to the memory of General Ross, slain in the battle of Baltimore, 1814. Rostrevor is a lovely watering-place, sheltered by high hills and shady woods. Here once stood the ancient castle of Rory M'Gennis, who owned this territory, and in regard to which Sir Walter Scott wrote the following lines: ' Ah! Clandeboy! thy friendly floor Slieve-Donard's oak shall light no more; Nor Owen's harp, beside the blaze, Tell maiden's love or hero's praise! The mantling brambles hide thy hearth, Centre of hospitable mirth! ' All undistinguished in the glade Their sire's glad home is prostrate laid; Their vassals wander wide and farServe foreign lords in distant war. And now the strangers' sons enjoy The lovely woods of Clandeboy i' Continuing on our route by car to Downpatrick, we pass (15 miles from Newry) Mourne Park, seat of the Earl of Kilmorey, in the grounds of which rises Knockchree, 1013 feet high, on the summit of which is an observatory. Crossing the White Water, we reach a road leading to Greencastle Point, where stands a massive square tower, erected by the Anglo-Norman barons to protect the entrance of Carlingford Lough. From here we continue to Kilkeel, an unimportant town of some 1100 inhabitants, and proceed along the coast on a narrow strip of land separating the Mourne Mountains and the sea until we reach Newcastle, situated at the base of Slieve-Donard. Hotel, Annesley Arms. Population 691. This is a good bathing-place, sometimes called the Scarborough of Ireland; it possesses a celebrated Spa, about halfa mile from the town, on a hill-side adjoining the grounds of Donard Lodge, belonging to the Earl of Annesley, which are freely opened to the.public. The ascent of Slieve-Donard, the highest of the Mourne Mountains, may be made from the Spa Well. Theheight is 2796 feet. Dundrum is passed five miles on our route from Newcastle. This is a small village situated on Dundrum Bay, overlooking which are the keep and outworks of an ancient castle, supposed to have DOWNPATRICK. [IRELAND.] NAVAN. been erected by a De Courcy in the 14th century: it was first held by the Templars, and then passed into the possession of the M'Gennis clan, once so powerful in this part of Ireland. A ruined mansion, dating from the 16th century, stands near the castle. From here the direct road to Downpatrick, eight miles and a half, strikes inland, passing through the village of Clough, where a single tower of a once powerful castle now stands. Downpatrick is a town of very ancient date, mentioned as being the residence of the native sovereigns of Ulidia, and believed to be the oldest town in Ireland. It is situated on the side of a hill overlooking the river Quoyle, and contains 3410 inhabitants. Here a monastery was founded in 432 by St. Patrick, on a site now about two miles from the town, in which that saint, together with St. Bridget and St. Columbkille, was afterward buried. The cathedral is a comparatively modern structure, occupying the site of one which had been burned by Lord Grey in 1538; the new building was erected in 1790. The east window is the only one which belonged to the previous edifice; over it are three niches, which once contained effigies of the three saints buried in the monastery, with a Latin inscription which runs thus: "Three saints do rest upon this holy hill: St. Patrick, Bridget, and St. Columbkille." Northwest of the town is a Danish rath, over 2000 feet in circumference, surrounded by three ramparts; this formerly went by the name of Fort Keltain. The Holy Wells of Struel, much resorted to by penitents,lie in a northeasterly direction. They are thus described by Doyle: "These " (the wells) "are four in number. The Body Well, or Well of Sins, the Limb Well, the Eye Well, and the Well of Life. If they pay a fee, they can go into the first, in which they are accommodated with a place to undress; if not, they must go to the Limb Well, in which case they have to undress before the multitude, and repair in a state of nudity to the well, into which they plunge promiscuously. Having thus washed away their sins at the expense of their modesty, they repair to the Eye Well, to wash away the impediments to their spiritial vision; after which they partake of the VOL. I.-E 'Waters of Life,' or, as some call it, the Well of Forgetfulness." Beyond the wells, on the hill of Slieve-na-griddle, is a curious Druidical ring, which will interest the antiquary. ROUTE No. 34. Drogheda to Belfast.,ina Navan, Kells, and Oldcastle, by rail. Time, 2 hrs. 53 min.; fare, 15s. 2d. This railway, 36 miles in length, runs through the valley of the Boyne, through a well-wooded and richly cultivated country during its entire length. About a mile and a half from Duleek, the first station after leaving Drogheda (see Route No. 28), is the village and ruined church of Donore, founded by St. Kieran in the fifth century. Here James II. passed the night before the battle of the Boyne, andon the followingday his army retreated, after its defeat, toward Duleek, while James fled on to DuLlin. Near Beauparc stands Slane Castle, the seat of the Marquis of Conyngham, adjoining whose demesne are the ruins of the Hermitage of St. Eric. Navan, an unprepossessing town of considerable antiquity, is situated sixteen miles from Drogheda, and contains 4184 inhabitants. The town is situated at the junction of the Boyne and Blackwater, and contains some interesting antiquities, such as the round tower of Donaghmore, the ruined castles of Scurloughstown and Liscartion, and the castle and church of Athlumney. Near the last-named place a curious subterranean passage was discovered during the construction of the railway: it is divided into two branches, each ending in a small circular chamber. About four miles from Trim is Dangan Castle, a place of considerable interest to the traveler, as being the birthplace or early home of Wellington and Wellesley. After leaving Navan, the railway turns f om the Boyne and follows the course of the Blackwater. 97 KELLS. [IRELAND.] GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. * Kells, ten miles from Navan, was known as early as the sixth century, when a monastery was founded here by St. Columba; this was plundered and burned by Dermot M'Murrough in 1155, and rebuilt by Hugh de Lacy the following year; no traces of this building now exist. The antiquities which will interest the visitor are the house of St. Columba, a remarkably perfect round tower, 100 feet in height, and three elaborate sculptured crosses, of which the principal stands in the market-place. Kells was also well advanced in literature at an early date, as may be seen by the illuminated "Book of Kells," now belonging to the museum of the Royal Irish Academy. From here the traveler may proceed by rail to Oldcastle, where little of interest is to be found, or he may take a car to Cavan (see Route No. 26). ROUTE No. 35. Coleraine to Belfast by the Great Coast Road, via the Giant's Causeway. Coleraine is reached from Belfast by the Belfast and Northern Railway (see Route No. 31). Travelers change cars here for Portrush, the stopping-place for visitors to the Giant's Causeway, and where one can not only spend days, but weeks to advantage. The best hotel in Portrush is the Antrim Arms, which is one of the best kept and most reasonable houses not only in Ireland, but in the United Kingdom. From here travelers make the excursions to Dunluce Castle and the Giant's Causeway. There is a good stable attached to the hotel, where carriages, horses, or jaunting-cars may be engaged at reasonable prices. Portrush is situated on a bold headland, with a deep bay on either side, and immediately opposite it is the group of rocky islands called the Skerries, which form a fine breakwater for the harbor. It is an admirable bathing-place, and, since the opening of the railway, a place of considerable activity. About two miles from Portrush we ar98 rive at the Castle of Dunluce, which is considered one of the most picturesque ruins in the United Kingdom. It stands upon an isolated rock 100 feet above the level of the sea, and is connected with the mainland by one of the most narrow bridges one can well imagine-say 20 inches wide. The date of its erection is uncertain; its building, however, is generally conceded to De Courcy, earl of Ulster. It has been the scene and subject of endless tradition, as well as many romantic and humble events. It was the ancient residence of the M'Quillans, and afterward of the M'Donalds of Scotland, Colonel M'Donald having married into the family of the M'Quillans. Those who feel inclined to boast of their pedigree should be informed that the founder of the M'Quillans could trace his family back 3000 years. when they left Babylon for Scotland. The Scottish family are still lords of Antrim and Dunluce. Beneath the castle is a long, narrow cave, which may be entered by a small opening at low water. Three miles farther brings us to Bushmills, so called from the River Bush, on which is situated a water-mill. The river is a favorite resort for anglers, and its salmon and trout are delicious. Nearly two miles farther we arrive at the Giant's Causeway, the most remarkable natural curiosity in the country. This basaltic promontory, which projects upward of a thousand feet into the sea, consists of huge piles of prismatic columns arranged side by side with perfect uniformity. One might imagine them to be the work of ingenious artificers, and it is questionable whether the art of man could rival the nicety with which each piece is fitted to the other. We shall not attempt a scientific description of the peculiar formation of this Causeway, nor have we the time nor room to embody the theories of the different learned writers on the subject, few of whom agree, and none of whose statements are more satisfactory than the romantic stories told by the guide who accompanies you. It is said by some leisurely disposed individual, who has taken the time and pains to count them, that we walk over the heads of some 4000 columns, all beautifully cut and polished, commencing with the triangular, or three-sided, and ending with the nonagon, or nine-sided. Among the GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. [IRELAND.] RATHLIN ISLAND. numerous fabulous objects of interest which the guide will point out, notice the Amphitheatre Gateway, Chimney-tops, Pulpit, and Giant's Well, where, if you drink some of the water (especially if you mix it with " mountain dew," sold there by an old man), and at the same time make a wish, it will surely be verified within the year. Notice also the Giant's Grandmother, who was petrified for having three hus. bands at the same time. Previous to landing at the Causeway, you will be taken in a boat to see the caves which lie under the rocks along the coast. [Notice the tariff for boats and guides which is hung up at the hotel, and pay accordingly. The boatmen expect a small fee extra, especially should it be a rough day.] The principal cave, and one into which the boat can be safely rowed, is Portcoon. It is about half a mile distant from the Causeway. Into this the sea rushes and recedes with a fearful noise, and the boat is sometimes carried to nearly the top of the cave, which is 45 feet high * its length is 350 feet. The Dunkerry Cave is over 600 feet long, and about 70 feet high above low water. Its entrance resembles a Gothic arch, and the rise and fall of the swell is much greater than in the Portcoon Cave, but much more regular, owing to its greater depth, and to a nervous person the slow and gradual rising to the roof is rather exciting. There are numerous other caves, which will be pointed out to the traveler as he is rowed past. One of the former guides at the Causeway gave the origin of the Causeway in this wise: "The giant, Fin M'Coul, was the chanmn pion of Ireland, and felt very much aggrieved at the insolent boasting of a certain Caledonian giant, who offered to beat all who came before him, and even dared to tell Fin that if it weren't for the wetting of himself, he would swim over and give him a drubbing. Fin at last applied to the king, who, not perhaps daring to question the doings of such a mighty man, gave him leave to construct a causeway right to Scotland, on which the Scot walked over and fought the Irishman. Fin turned out victor; and with an amount of generosity quite becoming his Hibernian descent, kindly allowed his former rival to marry and settle in Ireland, which the Scot was notbinc, loth to do, seeing that at that time 1 living in Scotland was none of the best, and every body knows that Ireland was always the richest countr in the world. y Since the death of the giants, the Causeway, being no longer wanted, has sunk under the sea, only leaving a portion visible here, a little at the island of Rathlin, and the portals of the grand gate on Staffa." There being no public conveyance from the Causeway, the traveler must take a car to follow the coast road, crossing the promontory to Dunseverick, where stand a few remains of a once powerful castle belonging to the MIQuillans. After passing the village, of Ballintry, we reach a singular chasm, sixty feet in width, which separates the island of Carrick-a-Rede from the shore. This is spanned by. a rude bridge, formed of two cables, four feet apart, upon which planks are lashed to form a footway: the whole is situated about 100 feet above the level of the sea, and is provided with hand-ropes, by means of which the peasantry cross fearlessly in all weathers, often carrying heavy burdens. A fine cave -in the cliff is passed before reaching Kenbane Head, on which stand the remains of a small castle. Ballycastle., three miles fartber, contains the remains of a stronghold built in 1609 by M'Don. nell of Dunluce. Trom the promontory of Fairhead, bevond Ballycastle, an exten --- sive view may be obtained of the scenery of Murtough Bay and including Rathlin Island ai:d a part of the coast of Scotland. Rathlin klm,24 is seldom visited,_ owing. to the difficulty of effecting a landing during westerly gales, which so often prevail in the neighborhood. It possesses, never. theless, some very interesting remains among. others Bruce's Castle, where Rob-, ert Bruce long remained concealed and where the celebrated episode of the'spider and the web took place. Near:Cushendun, the next placeon our route, the valley of Glendun is, spanned by, a fine viaduct, beneath -*which, at a distance of 80 feet, the Arve Dun or Brown River takes its course. The ruins of an ancient fttification are to be seen at Cush — endall. Here Ossian, the Gaelic Homer, is supposed to have been. born. ' Further on we reach: Glengar(ff, a small village situated on one end of Red Bay, at the -base of a glen beating the s4me, name. Here, nothing loth to do, seeing that at that time living in Scotland was none of the best, and every body knows that Ireland was always the richest country in the world. Since the death of the giants, the Causeway, being no longer wanted, has sunk under the sea, only leaving a portion visible here, a little at the island of Rathlin, and the portals of the grand gate on Staffa." There being no public conveyance from the Causeway, the traveler must take a car to follow the coast road, crossing the promontory to Dunseverick, where stand a few remains of a once powerful castle belonging to the M'Quillans. After passing the village of Ballintry, we reach a singular chasm, sixty feet in width, which separates the island of Carrick-a-Rede from the shore. This is spanned by. a rude bridge, formed of two cables, four feet apart, upon which planks are lashed to form a footway: the whole is situated about 100 feet above the level of the sea, and is provided with hand-ropes, by means of which the peasantry cross fearlessly in all weathers, often carrying heavy burdens. A fine cave in the cliff is passed before reaching Kenbane Head, on which stand the remains of a small castle. Ballycastle, three miles farther, contains the remains of a stronghold built in 1609 by M'Donnell of Dunluce. From the promontory of Fairhead, beyond Ballycastle, an extensive view may be obtained of the scenery of Murtough Bay, and including Rathlin Island ai:d a part of the coast of Scotland. Rathlin islai.d is seldom visited, owing to the difficulty of effecting a landing during westerly gales, which so often prevail in the neighborhood. It possesses, nevertheless, some very interesting remains, among others Bruce's Castle, where Robert Bruce long remained concealed, and where the celebrated episode of the spider and the web took place. Near Cushendun, the next place on our route, the valley of Glendun is spanned by a fine viaduct, beneath which, at a distance of 80 feet, the Arve Dun or Brown River takes its course. The ruins of an ancient fortification are to be seen at Cushendall. Here Ossian, the Gaelic Homer, is supposed to have been born. Farther on we reach Glengaraif, a small village situated on one end of Red Bay, at the base of a glen bearing the same name. Here 99 ROUTES. [IRELAND.] ROUTES.' we reach the prettiest part of our route, the in 8 h. 5 m. (daily); whole time, 16 h. 35 scenery of the bay, with its surrounding m.; fare, first class, 46s. $11 50. cliffs, being picturesque in the extreme. Cork to New Milford, Mondays, WednesAt the entrance of one of the glens that days, and Fridays, about 12 hours. From break the line of cliffs is the ruin of an New Milford to London, 8 h. 5 m. (daily). ancient church, containing a tombstone, Fare, first class, single ticket, 48s. whose inscription marks the spot as the Cork to Liverpool, three times a week; last resting-place of the great Shane O'Neil. time, 27 hours; fare, first class, including Passing Garron Point, where a fine view fee, ~1 is. =$5 25. of the coast of Scotland may be obtained, Cork to Glasgow, stopping at Waterford; and the adjoining rock of Drummail, crown- time, 35 hours; fare, 17s. 6d. = $4 374. ed by a fort, we reach Cairnlough, a small Cork to London (the mail route), via Dubvillage which has lately assumed some- lin and Holyhead, the quickest, most luxwhat the appearance of a watering-place. urious, but most expensive route; express Glenarm, reached four miles farther, is to Dublin, 4 hrs., and 11 hrs. from Dublin to the property and place of residence of the London =15 hours; fare, ~4 7s. =-$21 75. Earl of Antrim. It is beautifully situated Dublin to London (mail route), via Holybetween two wooded hills on a bay of the head and Chester; time, 11 hours; fare, same name, and contains something less ~2 17s. =$14 25. Passengers leave Dubthan 1000 inhabitants. The castle of the lin (Westland Row) for the Packet Pier at M'Donnell family, Earls of Antrim, stands Kingstown at 6.15 A.M. and 6.45 P.M. on the opposite side of the river which pass- The train runs directly alongside the packes the town: it is a modernized building ets,which are probably the finest employed -something of an architectural curiosity; on any Channel route. These are four in and the beauty of its situation, as well as number, named after the four Irish provthe magnificence of its deer-park, will well inces: Ulster, Connaught, Leinster, and Munrepay a visit. The road from here to ster; they are so wide and spacious, and Lame runs close to the sea, skirting the move so swiftly through the water, that Lallagh Brae cliffs, past the ruined castle but little motion is felt in ordinary weather. of the Prince of Breffny. The provisions supplied on board are exAt Larne a considerable trade is carried cellent, and the attendance good. Fare from on in lime, while cotton goods and canvas KingstowntoHolyhead,12s. =$3. The railare manufactured to some extent. Near way carriages are here also brought alongthe town stands the ruins of Olderfleet side the packet, and the transfer of pasCastle, where Bruce landed in 1315 with sengers and luggage is of short duration. 6000 men, bent upon the invasion of Ire- Dublin to Liverpool, by steamer, four land. A Druidical altar and rocking-stone times a week; fare, 13s. 6d. = $3 374; disare among the interesting antiquities to tance, 138 miles; time-the advertisements be seen near the town. The road now fol- say 9 hours, it took the editor 15! This lows along the shore of Lough Larne, past line's steamers leave No. 1 Northwall, Dubthe village of Glynn and its ancient lin, and Trafalgar Dock, Liverpool. church, to Ballycarry and Kilroot. The Dublin to Glasgow, nearly every day; latter place was once the parish of Dean fare, 15s. =$3 75; time, 15 hours; distance, Swift. A short drive from here brings the 223 miles. These steamers call at Greenock. traveler to Carrickfergus, whence he may Dublin to Bristol; fare, ~14s. = $6; time, proceed by rail either to Belfast or Lon- 19 hours. donderry. The former is reached in 30 Belfast to Glasgow; fare, 12s. 6d.=$3 12; minutes, and the latter in 3 hrs. 30 min. time, 8 hours. Belfast to London, via Fleetwood; fare, ~2 5s. = $11 25; sea passage, 11 hours to ROUTES BETWEEN IRELAND AND Fleetwood-18 hrs. 30 min. in all. GREAT BRITAIN. Belfast to Liverpool; fare, 12s. 6d.= If the traveler is in the south of Ireland, $3 124; distance, 156 miles; time, 14 hours. the most direct route, say from Waterford Londonderry to Glasgow, four times each to Loanon, is by steamer to New Milford in week; fare, 12s.6d. = $3 124; distance, 161 i. 25 m. From New Milford to London miles; time, 15 hours. 100 [SKELETON TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND.] SKELETON CIRCULAR TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND, arranged by the Caledonian Railway, giving the time occupied and the whole expense,with the privilege of breaking the journey at any place on the route. It would be well if the traveler inform himself if the hours for starting remain unchanged. We will suppose the tourist's starting-point is Edinburgh. (The time and expense is about the same from Glasgow. Four shillings =$1.) SKELETON TOUR No. 1. Loch Eurn, St. Fillans, and Comrie. Time, one day; fare, from Edinburgh and return, 18s. 6d., including coachman's fees. Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Lochearnhead. Leave Lochearnhead by coach at 12.15 P.M.; arrive at Crieff, 1 5 P.M. Leave Crieff by railway at 4.25; arrive at Edinburgh, 7.40 P.M. Passengers going via Callander will obtain a good view of Ben Ledi (2882 feet), the Pass of Leny, Loch Lubnaig, on the opposite shore of which the chapel of St. Bride will be seen (see Sir Walter Scott's "Lady of the Lake"), thence past the Braes of Balquhidder, the burial-place of Rob Roy (parties may visit the spot by asking the railway guard to put them down or take them up at King's House Station). At Lochearnhead Station tourists join the coach, and immediately after starting Glen Ogle is seen-a wild and narrow defile; Ben Voirlich (3300 feet), Loch Earn, along the shores of which the coach passes for seven miles; St. Fillans, Comrie, and Crieff. From Crieff, Drummond Castle and its famous gardens may be visited. SKELETON TOUR No. 2. Loch Earn and Loch Tay. Time, 2 days; fare from Edinburgh and return, 34s. 9d., including coachman's fees. Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Crieff, 10.25 A.M.; coach to Lochearnhead Station, 3 P.M. Leave Lochearnhead Station at 6.48 P.M.; arrive at Killin Hotel, 8 P.M. Leave Killin Hotel next day at 1.10 P.M.; by coach to Aberfeldy, 4.30 P.M. Leave Aberfeldy by train at 5.10 P.M., and arrive at Edinburgh, 9.55 P.M. The following are the places of interest on this tour: Stirling, Crieff, from which Drummond Castle and its famous gardens may be visited; Comrie, St. Fillans, Loch Earn, along the shore of which the coach runs about seven miles; Ben Voirlich (3300 feet), Glen Ogle, the Kyber Pass of Scotland; Killin, Finlanrig, the mausoleum of the Breadalbane family; Ben Lawers (3984 feet), guides for the ascent may be obtained at Lawers Inn; Loch Tay, along the shore of which the coach travels about sixteen miles; Kenmore,Taymouth Castle, Aberfeldy, Dunkeld, and Perth. SKELETON TOUR No. 3. Crieff, St. Fillans, Loch Earn,Crianlarich, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, and Trosachs. Time, 2 days; fare, from Edinburgh and return, 35s. (Coachman's fees on the Trosachs and Inversnaid coaches not included.) Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Crieff, 10.25 A.M.; coach to Lochearnhead Station, 3 P.M. Leave Lochearnhead Station, 6.48 P.M.; railway to Crianlarich, 7.40 P.M. Leave Crianlarich next day by coach at 11.45 A.M.; arrive at Ardlui, 1.10 P.M.; by steamer to Inversnaid, 1.45 P.M.; coach to Stronachlacher, 3 P.M.; steamer (Loch Katrine) to Trosachs, 4.15 P.M.; Trosachs to Callander by coach, 6.10 P.M. Leave Callander by rail at 7.20 P.M., and arrive at Edinburgh at 9.55 P.M. The following are the places of interest on this tour: Stirling, Crieff, from which Drummond Castle and gardens may be visited; Comrie, St. Fillans, Loch Earn, along which the coach travels seven miles; Ben Voirlich (3300 feet), Glen Ogle, Glen Dochart, and the ruins of Dochart Castle, where Bruce first took refuge after his de, feat by McDougal of Lorn; Ben More (3843 feet), guides for the ascent of which may be obtained at the Crianlarich Hotel; Glen Falloch, Loch Lomond, Ben Lomond (3192 feet), Loch Katrine, Ben Venue (2386 feet), Loch Achray, Brig of Turk, Loch Venacher, Coilantogle Ford, and Callander (see Sir Walter Scott's "Lady of the Lake"). SKELETON TOUR No. 4. Loch Long, L Loh Lond, Cianlarich, and Calander. Time, 1 day; fare, 24s., 101 [SKELETON TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND.] Leave Edinburgh at 7.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 10.45 A.M.; by steamer to Arrochat (Loch Long), 1.20 P.M.; coach to Tarbet, 1.45; steamer to Ardlui (Loch Lomond), 2.40 P.M.; coach to Crianlarich, 5.05; to Edinburgh by rail, 9.55 P.M. On this tour travelers will obtain a good view of the Clyde, Loch Long, Loch Lomond, and Ben Lomond, pass through Glen Falloch by coach to Ben More (3843 feet), which may be ascended from Crianlarich Station; Glen Dochart, obtain a glimpse of Loch Lay, pass through Glen Ogle, one of the wildest in Scotland, and from the east end of which a magnificent view of Loch Earn is obtained; the Braes of Balquhidder, where Rob Roy is buried (parties may visit the spot by arranging with the railway guard to set them down or take them up at King's House Station); Loch Lubnaig, the Pass of Leny, and Ben Ledi. On the opposite shore of Loch Lubnaig, from the railway, the site of the chapel of St. Bride, now a small kirk-yard, may I:e seen (see the " Lady of the Lake "). Tourists may visit the Trosachs and Loch Katrine by paying the coach and steamboat fares to and from Callander. SKELETON TOUR No. 5. Stirling, Callander, Tyndrum, Loch Awe, and the Ky'es f Bute. Time, 2 days; fare, 37s. 3d. Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 9 A.M.; Greenock (Kyles of Bute) to Ardrishaig, 12.40 P.M. Leave Ardrishaig at 1.10 P.M.; by coach to Ford, 3 P.M.; Ford to Cladich, on Loch Awe, by steamer, 5.30 P.M.; coach to Dalmally, 6.40 P.M. Leave Dalmally by coach next morning at 11.50 A.M.; arrive at Tyndrum, 1.45 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M. The sail on this route by the famous steamer "Colomba" or "Iona" on the Clyde, through the Kyles of Bute and Loch Fyne, is well known; Loch Awe, only recently opened for tourists, with Ben Cruachan at its northern end, is not surpassed for its grandeurin Scotland; Dalmally,with its famous ruinof Kilchurn Castle, will well repay a visit, and tourists may break the journey to Crianlarich to ascend Ben More (3843 feet), guides for which may be obtained at Crianlarich Hotel; Loch Tay, Loch Earn, Loch Lubnaig, the Braes of Balquhidder (the burial-place of Rob Roy), 102 and Ben Ledi can all be seen. The Trosachs may be visited by breaking the journey at Callander, but this is not included in the fare for the tour. SKELETON TOUR No. 6. Loch Goil, Inverary, Dalmally, Tyndrum, Callander, and Stirling. Time, 2 days; fare, 33s. Leave Edinburgh, 7.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 10.50 A.M.; steamer to Lochgoilhead, 12.30 A.M.; from Lochgoilhead to St. Catharines by coach, 3 P.M.; St. Catharines by ferry to Inverary, 3.30 P.M. Leave Inverary next morning by coach at 9 A.M.; arrive at Tyndrum at 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum at 2 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M. Tourists on this route will obtain a good view of the Firth of Clyde, Loch Long, and Loch Goil, and the ruins of Carrick Castle; will pass by coach through " Hell's Glen," and cross Loch Fyne to Inverary, which will well repay a short sojourn, as the neighborhood abounds in beautiful walks and magnificent trees. The Duke of Argyle's grounds are open to the public. The drive by coach between Inverary and Dalmally is one of the grandest in Scotland, and the coach stops a short time near Duncan Ban McIntyre's monument, that passengers may view Loch Awe, with its many islets, Kilchurn Castle, and Ben Cruachan. Between Tyndrum and Callander the objects are noted in Route No. 5. NOTE.-Parties intending to travel from Inverary to Lochgoilhead (except those arriving from Oban same day at 12 o'clock noon), are required to book their places at the coach office, Inverary, before 10 A.M., whether they hold through tickets or not. SKELETON TOUR No. 7. Loch Goil, Inverary, Dalmally, Oban, Ballachulish, and Glencoe. Time, 3 days; fare, 59s. 6d. Leave Edinburgh at 7.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 10.50 A.M.; steamer to Lochgoilhead, 12.30 P.M. Leave Lochgoilhead by coach to St. Catharines, 3 P.M.; Inverary Ferry, 3.30. Leave Inverary by coach, 4 P.M.; arrive at Dalmally at 6.40 P.M. Leave Dalmally next day at 1.30 P.M. by coach, and arrive at Oban at 5 P.M. Leave Oban next morning at 5 A.M.; steamer to Ballachulish, 7 A.M. Leave Ballachulish at 7.45 A.M.; coach to [SKELETON TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND.] Tyndrum, 2 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh,.6.25 P.M. This tour is the same between Glasgow and Dalmally as Tour No. 6. From Dalmally the coach runs around the base of Ben Cruachan and the head of Loch Awe (another good view of Kilchurn Castle is here obtained: tourists wishing to ascend Ben Cruachan, 3670 feet, may procure a guide for this purpose at Taynuilt Hotel), and on through the Brander Pass (scene of Sir Walter Scott's " Highland Widow "), and along the shores of Loch Etive to Oban; thence per steamer to Ballachulish, and through Glencoe, famed for its wild grandeur; thence per rail from Tyndrum, between which place and Callander is Loch Dochart, with the ruins of Dochart Castle, where Bruce first took refuge after his defeat by McDougal of Lorn; Loch Tay, Loch Earn, and Loch Lubnaig, on the opposite shore of which is seen the chapel of St. Bride (see the "Lady of the Lake "); Glen Dochart; Glen Ogle, one of the wildest in Scotland; the Braes of Balquhidder, where Rob Roy is buried (parties may visit the spot by arranging with the railway guard to set them down or take them up at King's House Station), the Pass of Leny, Ben Doran (3517 feet), Ben More (3843 feet), Stobinian (3821 feet), and Lawers (3984 feet), can all be well seen. Tourists desiring to ascend Ben More may obtain a guide at Crianlarich Hotel, and on the way will pass Coirchaorach, the birthplace of Rob Roy. Ben Lawers may be visited by breaking the journey at Killin, and the Trosachs by breaking the journey at Callander; but the coupons for this tour do not include the necessary fares for these diversions. Observe " Note" in Route No. 6. SKELETON TOUR No. 8. Loch Goil, Inverary, Glencoe, LochLomond, Trosachs, Callander, and Stirling. Time, 3 days; fare, 35s. (not including coachman's fees on Trosachs and Inversnaid coaches). Leave Edinburgh at 7.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 10.50; steamer to Lochgoilhead, 1 P.M.; to St. Catharines, 3 P.M.; ferry to Inverary, 3.30 P.M. Leave Inverary next day at 12.50 P.M.; coach to Tarbet, 4.45 P.M. Leave Tarbet 6.25 P.M. by steamer on Loch Lomond, arrive at Inversnaid at 6.40 P.M. Leave Inversnaid next day at 10.45 A.M. by coach to Stronachlacher, 11.45 A.M.; steamer on Loch Katrine to Trosachs, 1.15 P.M.; coach to Callander, 3 P.M. Leave Callander at 3.45 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M. This tour embraces some of the finest scenery in Stirling, Dumbarton, and Argyleshire. Most of the places of interest may be found noted in Tour No. 3. SKELETON TOUR No. 9. Oban. Time, 2 days; fare, 44s. 3d. Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 9 A.M.; steamer by the Kyles of Bute and Crian Canal to Oban, 5 P.M. Leave Oban by coach, 8.10 A.M.; arrive at Tyndrum 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum at 2 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M. The sail between Glasgow and Oban, which includes the sail between Glasgow and Ardrishaig by the steamer "Colomba" or " ona," is well known. For particulars, see Route to Oban. From Oban excursions may be made to Staffa, Iona, Dunstaffnage Castle, and Glencoe. Between Oban and Tyndrum passengers are conveyed by coach along the shore of Loch Etive, through the Pass of Awe, or Brander Pass, the scene of Sir Walter Scott's " Highland Widow," along the base of Ben Cruachan (3670 feet)-guides for the ascent may be obtained from the hotel at Taynuilt; thence along the shores of Lach Awe, obtaining a good view of the ruins of Kilchurn Castle; thence past Dalmally, Glenorchy, and Tyndrum; between Tyndrum and Callander is Loch Dochart, with the ruins of Dochart Castle, where Bruce first took refuge after his defeat by McDougal of Lorn; Loch Tay, Ioch Earn, and Loch Lubnaig, on the opposite shore of which is seen the chapel of St. Bride (see the "Lady of the Lake"), Glen Dochart, IGlen Ogle, one of the wildest in Scotland, the Braes of Balquhidder, where Rob Roy is buried (parties may visit the spot by arranging with the railway guard to set them down or take them up at King's House Station); the Pass of Leny, Bens Doran (3517 feet), More (3843 feet), Stobinian (3821 feet), and Lawers (3941 feet), can all be well seen. Tourists desiring to ascend Ben More may obtain a guide at Crianlarich Hotel, and on the way will pass Coirchaorach, the birthplace of. 103 [SKELETON TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND.] Rob Roy. Ben Lawers may be visited by breaking the journey at Killin, and the Trosachs by breaking the journey at Callander, but the coupons for this tour do not include the necessary fares for these diversions. SKELETON TOUR No. 10. Glencoe, Fort William, and Oban. Time, 2 days; fare, 54s. 9d. Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Greenock, 9 A.M.; steamer "Colomba" or "oona," via Kyles of Bute, Crinan Canal, and Oban, to Fort William, 8 P.M. Leave Fort William next morning at 5.30 A.M.; by coach to Tyndrum, 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum at 2 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M. This tour embraces most of the scenery described in Tour No. 9; but passengers, instead of traveling by coach between Oban and Tyndrum, proceed to Fort William by steamer, and return to Tyndrum, via Glencoe, or vice versa. For objects of interest passed during the remainder of the tour, see Route No. 9. SKELETON TOUR No. 11. Oban, Inverness, and Aberdeen. Time, 4 days; fare, 74s. 6d. Leave Edinburgh, 8.35 A.M.; railway to Tyndrum, 1.15 P.M.; coach from Tyndrum, 1.30 P.M.; arrive at Oban 7 P.M. Leave Oban next day at 5 P.M. by steamer; arrive at Banavie 8.20 P.M. Leave Banavie at 8 A.M. through the Caledonian Canal to Inverness at 4.45 P.M. Leave Inverness next day by rail, 6.30 A.M.; arrive at Aberdeen 11.50 A.M. Leave at 12.23 P.M. by railway; arrive at Edinburgh 6.25 P.M. The places of interest on this tour between Callander and Tyndrum and Oban are to be found noted in Tours Nos. 9 and 10; from Oban the route is the "Royal one," per Mr. David MacBrayne's steamers to Inverness, passing through Lochs Lochy, Oich. and Ness. Ben Nevis (4406 feet), the highest mountain in Scotland, may be visited from Fort William. Elgin and Forres, with their many interesting antiquities, may be visited on the route from Inverness to Aberdeen. SKELETON TOUR No. 12. Oban, Inverness, and Dunkeld. Time, 4 days; fare, 74s. 6d. Leave Edinburgh at 104 8.35 A.M.; by railway to Tyndrum, 1.30 P.M.; coach from Tyndrum to Oban, 7 P.M. Leave Oban next day by steamer for Banavie at 5 P.M.; arrive at 8.20 P.M. Leave Banavie next day at 8 A.M.; arrive at Inverness 4.45 P.M. Leave Inverness at 10.18 A.M., via Dunkeld, Perth, and Stirling; arrive at Edinburgh 6.25 P.M. The places of interest on this route will be found noted in Tours Nos. 9,10, and 11, between Glasgow and Inverness, via Caledonian Canal; between Inverness and Glasgow, via Perth, Forres, Pitlochrie, and Dunkeld, Perth and Stirling may be visited, and the railway passes through the famous Pass of Killiecrankie. Passengers may break the journey at Oban and visit Staffa and Iona, or at Ballachulish and visit Glencoe. SKELETON TOUR No. 13. Callander, Trosachs, Loch Lomond, Inverary, Loch Awe, Darlmally, Oban, Fort William, Glencoe, and Tyndrum. Time, 4 days; fare, 72s. 3d. Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M.; railway to Callander, 9.50; coach to Trosachs, 11.20 A.M.; Trosachs to Stronachlacher (on Lake Katrine), 12.15 P.M.; coach to Inversnaid, 1.20 P.M.; Inversnaid to Tarbet (on Loch Lomond), 2 P.M. Leave Tarbet next day by coach at 10.30 A.M.; arrive at Oban 8.30 P.M. Leave Oban next day at 7.45 A.M.; steamer to Ballachulish, 1 P.M.; to Fort William, 2 P.M. Leave Fort William at 5.30 A.M.; coach to Tyndrum, 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum, 2 P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M. ROUTES. 36. Glasgow and surroundings, p. 109. 37. Glasgow to Lanark, Hamilton Palace, Bothwell Castle, and the Falls of the Clyde, p.112. 38. Glasgow to Rothsay, Island of Bute, and Arran, via Dumbarton Castle, Helensburg, Greenock, and Dunoon, p. 113. 39. Glasgow to Oban, through the Crinan Canal, p. 116. 40. Oban to the Islands of Staffa and lona, p. 119. 41. Oban to Glencoe, p. 121. 42. Glasgow to Inverary, p. 123. 43. Oban to Inverness, via the Caledonian Canal, p. 124. [ROUTES THROUGH SCOTLAND.] 44. Glasgow to Ayr and Girvan (the Land of Burns), via Paisley and Troon, p. 126. 45. Inverness to Strome Ferry and Skye, p. 129. 46. Inverness to Wick and Thurso, via Dingwall and Helmsdale, p. 129. 47. Inverness to Perth, via Blair-Athol, Pass of Killiecrankie, and Dunkeld, p. 131. 48. Perth to Glasgow, via Callander, Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond, and Balloch, p. 133. 49. Inverness to Perth, via Elgin, Macduff, and Aberdeen, p. 134. 50. Aberdeen to Braemar and A viemore or Blair-Athol, via Ballater and Balmoral, p. 136. 51. Stirling to Perth, via Dollar and Kinross, p. 138. 52. Stirling to Glasgow, via Balfron and Loch Lomond, p. 141. 53. Stirling to Oban, via Dunblane, Callander, and Tyndrum (the Land of Rob Roy), p. 142. 54. Loch Lomond to Glencoe, p. 144. 55. Dunkeld to Criejf, via Aberfeldy, Kenmore (Taymouth Castle, the residence of the Marquis of Breadalbane), Killin, and Lochearnhead, p. 145. 56. Inverary to Oban, by Loch Awe, p. 47. 57. Glasgow to the Island of Skye, Gairloch, and Stornoway (on the Island of VOL. I.-E 2 Lewis, the capital of the Western Heb. rides), p. 148. 58. Glasgow to Edinburgh, direct, via Falkirk and Linlithgow, p. 149. 59. Edinburgh and vicinity, p. 151. 60. Edinburgh to Berwick, via Melrose, Abbotsford, Dryburgh, Hawick, Kelso, and Coldstream, p. 158. 61. Edinburgh to Berwick-on-Tweed, via Dunbar and North Berwick, p. 163. 62. Glasgow to Carlisle, via Kilmarnock and Dunifries, p. 166. 63. Edinburgh to Carlisle (direct), via the Caledonian Railway, p. 169. 64. Edinburgh to Melrose, via Peebles, p. 171. 65. Edinburgh to Carlisle, via Melrose, St. Boswells, and Hawick, p. 172. 66. Dumfries to Stranraer and Portpatrick, p. 174. 67. Edinburgh to Stirling (by railway), p. 176. 68. Edinburgh to Dundee and St. Andrews, via Dunfermline, p. 177. 69. Perth to Montrose, via Dundee, p. 178. 70. Glasgow or Oban to Portree (Island of Skye), Gairloch, Auchnasheen, and Inverness (a new and magnificent route), p. 180. 71. Oban to Loch Scavaig and Coolin Hills, p. 181. 106 GEOGRAPHY. [SCOT Scotland is the northern division of the island of Great Britain, and was the Caledonia of the Romans, that is, that portion which lies north of the Firths of Forth and Clyde, from which name the inhabitants were called Caledonians, afterward changed to Picts. The surface of Scotland is the most varied and irregular of any country in Europe. The mainland consists of twenty-six thousand one hundred and twenty-one square miles, with nearly five hundred square miles of fresh-water lakes. Added to this, the area of the Shetland Islands, 880 square miles, the Hebrides, 2580, the Orkneys, 440, and the islands in the Firth of Clyde, 165, make a total of 30,686 square miles. About one third of the land is arable, and is divided into Highlands and Lowlands. The former includes the Hebrides, Orkney, and Shetland Islands, with the most northern counties. The Lowlands, although comparatively level, embrace considerable mountainous country, and ate only low when compared with the northern portion. The climate of Scotland is very variable by reason of its seaward exposure, but neither its cold nor heat is so intense as in similar latitudes in other countries. The most celebrated of the mountains of Scotland is the chain situated in the Highlands called the Grampian, which commences near Loch Etive in Argyleshire, and terminates near the mouth of the Dee on the eastern coast. The highest mountain is Ben Nevis, separated from the Gramplans only by the moor of Rannoch. It is 4406 feet above the level of the sea. The principal rivers are the Forth, Tay, Tweed, Spey, and Clyde. The Tweed, toward its debouche, forms the boundary between England and Scotland. The most celebrated of the Scottish lakes are Lochs Lomond, Etive, Long, Fyne, Awe, Lochy, Eil, Ness, and Katrine, not forgetting the lovely little lake of Oich on the way to Inverness, which for Alpine grandeur and sylvan beauty is unsurpassed in Europe. The chain of the Grampian Mountains stretches across Scotland in the direction of east and west, the eastern range terminating in a long and narrow plain before it arrives at the North Sea; this plain, which takes a southwest direction, is called Strathmore, has a total length of about eighty miles by 106 LAND.] HISTORY. seventeen in breadth, and is the most highly cultivated land in Scotland; it forms the eastern termination of the Highlands, and is rich in crops of barley and other grain. The islands of Scotland are one of the principal features of the country, occupying as they do nearly a seventh of its territory; they are divided into four groups: the Hebrides, or Western Islands, the Orkney Islands, the Shetland Islands, and the islands of the Firth of Clyde. The Hebrides are divided into Inner and Outer Hebrides. Those adjacent to the mainland, such as Skye, Mull, Islay, and Jura, are designated as the Inner, and those situated to the west of the channel of the Minsh, and which form a continuous group, such as Lewis, Harris, North Uist, South Uist, and Benbecula, are called the Outer. The most westerly, 180 miles from the nearest land, is Rockall, which is uninhabited. The Orkney Islands are divided from the mainland by the Firth of Pentland; they are sixty-seven in number. The principal are Pomona, North and South Ronaldsha, and Hoy; over half of them are uninhabited. The Shetland Islands number over one hundred; the principal are Mainland,Yell, Fetlar, Whalsay, and Unst. About fifty of these are inhabited. The Islands in the Firth of Clyde are Arran (the property of the Duke of Hamilton), Bute, Great and Little Cumbray, and Ailsa. Scotland is rich in coal and iron; the coal-fields cover a surface of one thousand square miles, and are especially rich in the neighborhood of Glasgow, where iron shipbuilding is carried on to a great extent, nearly all the ships built for Great Britain being constructed on the Clyde, as well as many for foreign markets. The linen and cotton manufactures of Scotland are also very extensive. The population, according to the census of 1871, was 3,358,613. HISTORY. The original inhabitants of Scotland belonged without doubt to the Celtic race. The earliest authentic information given is by Tacitus, who recorded the campaigns of HISTORY. [SCOTLAND.] HISTORY. Agricola, which were commenced A.D. 78. It took two campaigns to subdue that portion of Scotland which lies south of the Firths of Forth and Clyde. In A.D. 80 the same general occupied the third year of his campaign in laying waste the Caledonian territory as far as the River Tay; his fourth summer was occupied in settling the parts overrun. In the sixth year of Agricola's campaigning he went north of the Forth with the Ninth Legion, which was nearly annihilated by the Caledonians. In A.D. 84 the whole Roman fleet was sent north to plunder the country, preceded by the army. The Caledonians united under their king, and the terrible battle of "Mons Grampius" was fought; but although the Romans were the victors, their victory gave them no fruits, and they retired to winter-quarters in Perthshire. The following year the Emperor Domitian recalled Agricola, appointing Trebellius his successor, under whom the Romans lost all they had acquired in Caledonia. In A.D. 120 the Emperor Hadrian came to Britain, and attempted to regain the lost territory, but was unsuccessful, and ended in building an extensive turf wall from the Solway Firth to the River Tyne, a distance of eighty miles, known as Hadrian's Wall, which became the Caledonian boundary. Twenty years later, A.D. 140, Lollius Urbicus, a general under Antonine, gained some further advantage, and built another wall, called the Wall of Antonine, which extended from the Firth of Forth to the Clyde. For the next sixty years the greatest of the Roman wars were those carried on against the Caledonians, who would not be subdued, and, according to writers of the times, failed to keep their promises, defending their brethren near the north and south of the Forth, the Roman general having to obtain peace by large sums of money. In the year A.D. 207 the Emperor Severus entered Caledonia to reduce and conquer it. After a year of harassing warfare, in which over 50,000 Roman soldiers perished, a treaty was entered into with the Caledonians, by which they agreed to yield a part of their territory for the purpose of getting rid of the Romans. The emperor retired from a fruitless effort to conquer the Caledonians, building his immense wall close to Hadrian's, from the Solway to the Tyne, known as the Wall of Severus, showing by that fact how hopeless he thought the task of conquering the Caledonians; and few people can boast such noble resistance to retain the liberty of their country. There is no question but that the Picts and Caledonians were the same people. In A.D. 414 the Romans sent a legion from Gaul to aid the Britons against the Caledonian Picts. Four years later the Romans left South Britain, after an aggression in the land of Gaul which lasted 330 years. The Irish Scots made the first permanent settlement in Scotland under Fergus McEre in A.D. 506, erroneously stated 503. There was no permanent settlement of the Irish Scots in Caledonia previous to the departure of the Romans in A.D. 410. For several centuries the Picts and Scots governed Scotland, until they became united, in A.D. 843, under the single head of a Scottish king, Kenneth McAlpin, as Kenneth I. The Scottish prince did not obtain the united crown by right of conquest, as the Pictish nation was the more powerful of the two, but by peaceable succession, as King James I. obtained the throne of England. Kenneth thus became the veritable first king of Scotland. Scotch historians count before this prince sixty-six kings, the first of which was named Fergus, who was supposed to have reigned 350 B.C.; but the existence of these kings is fabulous up to Fergus II.,who ascended the throne A.D. 410. Christianity was introduced about the opening of the fifth century; the preaching of Ninian in A.D. 414 to the Southern Picts is the earliest that can be relied upon. In A.D. 431 Pope Celestine sent Palladius to Ireland as bishop of the Scots believing in Christ. In the eleventh century, under the reign of Malcolm III., who had espoused a Saxon princess, numerous Saxons, flying from the rule of William the Conqueror, sought refuge in Scotland. In the year 1286, on the death of Alexander III., the ancient line became extinct, and after numerous revolutions, during which Baliol and Bruce fought for the crown, the last finally triumphed in 1307. During the time of these domes107 HISTORY. [SCOT] tic quarrels England attempted several times to unite Scotland to its empire, but the victory of Robert Bruce at Bannockburn constrained her to defer the execution of her projects. James I. undertook to curb the power and pride of his powerful barons, but he was assassinated by them in 1437. James II., his son, undertook with more success the work of his father; but James I I., who succeeded him, created a general rising, in which he was vanquished and killed in 1488. James IV. espoused Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. of England, thus acquiring to his descendants the right of pretenders to the throne of England: he was killed in combating the English at the battle of Flodden in 1513. James V. espoused Mary of Guise, and riveted more closely by this marriage the links which bound Scotland to France, for a long time her ally. Under his reign commenced the trouble of the Reform, preached first by Hamilton in 1527, then established under the name of Presbyterianism by John Knox. In 1542 Mary Stuart, daughter of James, and betrothed to the Dauphin of France, afterward Francis II., succeeded her father. The lively opposition of this queen to the Reformed religion was the germ of grave discontent in the nation, which ripened later into open revolt, and which compelled her to take refuge at the court of Elizabeth, Queen of England, who was her cousin; but she, instead of protecting her, first imprisoned her, and then put her to death. James, her son, succeeded her in Scotland under the title of James VI., who, after the death of Elizabeth, by right of inheritance became King of England, under the title of James I. (1603). Scotland at first preserved its title of kingdom, its parliament, and laws, and it was not until a century later, in 1707, that Queen Anne united the two kingdoms under the title of Great Britain. The tranquillity of Scotland remained undisturbed until 1745, when the Highlanders took up arms in favor of the Pretender, Charles Edward Stuart. The following is a list of the monarchs of Scotland, from Brudhi McMelchon, A.D. b54, down to the present long and successful reign: REIGN BEGAN A.D. Brndhi MeMelcllon............. 55 Gartney McDonald................ 684 108 LAND.] SOVEREIGNS. BEIGN BEGAl A D. Nechtan Hy Firb.................. 699 Kenneth Mclachtren................ 620 Gartney McFoith............... 631 Brudhi McFoith..................... 635 Talorcan McFoith................... 641 Talorcan McEf, nfired................. 653 Gartney McDonald............ 657 Drost McDonald.............. 663 Brudhi McBili...................... 672 Glhar;in McEnfisedech.............. 693 Brudhi MDerili.................. 69 Nechtan McDrost...........resigned 706 l)rot.......................expelled 724 Alpi...................... 726 Nechtan McDerili................. 728 Angus McFergus.................... 729 Brudhi McFergus.................... 761 Kenneth McFederach................ 763 Alpin McFederach.................. 775 Talorcan McAngus.................. 78 Drost McTalorgan.............. 782 Conal McTaidge............. expelled 784 Constantine McFergus............... 820 Drost McConstantine................ 836 Eoganan McAngus.................. 836 Feredach McBargoit................. 839 Brudhi McBargoit................ 84 UNION OF PICTS AND SCOTS. Kenneth McAlpii.............. 843 Donald McAlpin.................... 859 Constantine II....................... 863 Aodh McKenneth................... 877 Eoch jointly.................. 878 Donald I........................... 896 Constantine III..................... 900 Malcolm I........................... 943 Indulf.............................. 954 Duff................................ 962 Colin............................... 967 Kenneth I......................... 971 Constantine IV..................... 995 Kenneth III........................ 997 Malcolm II........................ 1005 Duncan I...................... 1034 M cbeth........................... 1040 Malcolm III...................... 1158 Duncan II......................... 1093 Donald III..................... 1094 Edgar...................... 1097 Alexander I............1....... 1107 David I............................. 1124 Malcolm IV........................ 1153 William the Lion.................... 1165 Alexander II....................... 1214 Alexander III...................... 1249 The lastCeltic king: his granddaughter was Margaret........................... 1286 The throne of Scotland was contested by the descendants of the Celtic kings in the female line, and the crown came to the eldest female's heirs. John Ballol...................... 1292 An interregnum of ten years. Robert Bruce, called Robert I........ 1806 David II., son of the above........... 1329 Robert II., grandson of Robert Bruce. 1370 SOVEREIGNS [SCOTLAND.].GLAsoW. A.D. Robert III........................... 13'0 James I............................. 1406 James II............................ 1436 James II........................... 1460 James IV........................... 14'8 James V............................ 1513 Mary, daughter of James V... deposed 1542 Jame.s VI., son of Mary.............. 1567 " as James I. of England... 1603 UNION OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. Charles I...................beheaded 1625 An interregnum from........ 1649-1652 Oliver Cromwell..................... 1652 Richard Cromwell................... 1658 Charles II.......................... 1660 Janles II...................abdicated 1685 William and Mary................. 1688 Anne............................... 1702 George I............................ 1714 George II.......................... 1727 George III.......................... 1760 George IV.......................... 182 Willia IV......................... 1830 Victoria............................ 1837 longing to this firm will be found at every point along the Scottish coast. A line runs regularly between Glasgow and Oban via the Crinan Canal-from Oban to Tobermory, Oban to Staffa and Iona, Oban to Glencoe, Oban to Inverness, Oban to Gairloch, Oban to Loch Scavaig, Oban to Skye, and Oban to Stornoway, in far-off Lewis. The Caledonian Railway issues tickets at a very reduced rate for tours by rail, steamer, and coach, comprehending almost every place of interest either for scenery or histor. ical association throughout Scotland. (See Introduction to Scotland, Skeleton Tours.) We wish here strongly to impress upon the minds of our countrymen who are making the tour of Europe by no means to miss Scotland. If your time or means will not allow it, miss Italy, miss Switzerland, miss Germany, the Rhine (how tame compared with the Caledonian Canal route through Loch Eie, Lochy, Oich, and Ness!) -miss any of these, but do not miss making the tour to Inverness, via the Firth of Clyde, Kyles of Bute, Loch Fyne, the Crinan Canal, Scarba Sound to Oban; ROUTE No. 36. then an excursion to Loch Scavaig, one to Glasgow and its surroundings. Portree, and to the isles of Staffa and Iona, Glasgow, the commercial capital of Scotreturning to Oban the same day; then land, finely situated on the River Clyde, at via Glencoe back to Loch Eie, Fort Wil- the head of navigation, contains 500,000 inliam, Loch Lochy, and Ness to Inverness, habitants. Principal hotels: Bath, Queens, returning by the highland railway (an ad- and Grand. mirably managed road) by Blair-Athol, The chief portion of Glasgow lies on the through the famous Pass of Killiecrankie, north bank of the Clyde, which is crossed unsurpassed for beauty, Dunkeld, Perth, by five fine bridges, and lined with magLakes Katrine and Lomond, and we vent- nificent quays. The navigation of this ure to affirm that in the ten days which it river, formerly impeded by many obstrucwill take more will be seen to satisfy the tions, has of late been so much improved traveler, and at less expense, than the by dredging (steam-vessels being continusame time spent in any other part of Eu- ally kept at work for that purpose) that rope. The variations of this route we will vessels of one thousand tons' burden can point out when we describe it. Travelers reach the city. To show the great increase from all parts of the world are much in- of trade, the custom duties levied in 1800 debted to the enterprise and capital of one were about four thousand dollars; now of a well-known Glasgow firm. Mr. David they are about four millions-one thouMacBrayne has opened up the beauties of sand times increased in seventy-four years! Scotland's lovely lakes and islands, and a Before our revolution in 1776, tobacco was fleet of fast-sailing, elegant steamers be- the great trade, and the wealthy inhab109 GLASGOW. [SCOTLAND.] GLASGOW. itants were styled the "tobacco lords." This business being interrupted on account of the war, the citizens turned their attention to cotton, when soon the "cotton lords" eclipsed the "tobacco lords." At present the iron lords reign supreme, as a trip down the Clyde will rapidly convince every one, hundreds of iron vessels, in all stages of advancement, surrounding you on every hand. In 1830 there were forty thousand tons of iron used in Glasgow; now the amount is probably one million. Glasgow was the cradle of steam navigation, and the first steamer in Europe was launched here in 1812, Henry Bell being the projector. James Watt, a native of Glasgow, in 1763, first applied steam as a motive power, a monument to whom was erected in St. George's Square. Glasgow is noted for the quantity and purity of its supply of fresh water, brought through tunnels, aqueducts, and reservoirs from the classic Loch Katrine, a distance of thirty-four miles. The supply is equal to twenty-four million gallons daily. A novel institution has lately been established in Glasgow by one of her many public philanthropists with great success, viz., a Great Western Cooking Depot, the object of which is to provide cheap food for the working-classes. This depot, with its numerous branches, supplies good substantial breakfasts for threepence (six cents), and a dinner, consisting of soup, meat, potatoes, and pudding, for fourpence halfpenny, equivalent to nine cents of our money. Here is a city importing food from us, and supplying it to its working-men in good condition, good breakfasts and dinners, for fifteen cents per day! Where are our New York philanthropists? The originator of this institution is Mr. Thomas Corbett, whose name we lend our efforts in handing down to posterity. The first and most prominent object to be seen in Glasgow is the Cathedral, which we think ranks next to Westminster in the kingdom, and is certainly equal to the farfamed Salisbury Cathedral for purity of style. It is situated in a most picturesque position, partly surmounted by an old church-yard called the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the city, which rises in terraces in the background, and contains some very beautiful monuments, the most conspicuous of which is that erected to the 110 memory of John Knox, the great reformer. It is situated on the highest elevation of the grounds, and the statue of him whom Scotland delights to honor, placed on the top of a fine Doric column, looks down upon the tombs of many of the great who are buried around it. The grounds of the Necropolis, with its gravel-walks, trees, shrubbery, and flowers, have more the appearance of a magnificent garden than that of a resting-place for the dead. The Cathedral was erected in the 12th century by John Achaius, bishop of Glasgow. It originally consisted of three churches. It is in the form of a Latin cross, of the pure Gothic style. The nave is 156 feet long and 62 wide. The organscreen is particularly deserving of notice for its beautiful carving. The choir, the part now used for worship, is 97 feet in length and 60 wide, and the large eastern window contains beautiful specimens of stained glass. The Lady Chapel and Chapter-house, which adjoin the Cathedral, are both deserving of notice. The architectural beauty of the former is most exquisite. Visit the three different crypts under the church, intended as a place of interment for the magnates of the Cathedral, and is worthy-for purity of style, for grace and magnificence-to become the resting-place of emperors. There are numerous other churches in Glasgow, among which are worthy of notice Old College Church, St. John's Parish Church, St. Andrew's Parish Church, St. Andrew's Roman Catholic Cathedral, St. Mary's Episcopal Chapel, Lansdowne Church, etc., etc. The Anderson University was founded by Dr. John Anderson in 1795. This is one of the principal educational establishments in the city. The Royal Exchange, situated in the centre of Exchange Square, is perhaps the finest building in Glasgow. It is built in the Corinthian order of architecture, and is surmounted by a noble campanile, whence a beautiful view of the city may be obtained. The principal apartment is the News-room, which is beautifully decorated. This structure cost the city two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and is one of which every citizen should feel proud. In front of the Exchange stands an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington. It is executed in bronze by Marochetti, and 11 t G LASG0OWV I, A lk, - I ---,I 11( I/ % I --.I t I I A I I-,- " .j- -,.I.1, II?- ' j \", 2 K A i N —, \.- I aim IV . Av \ K IKyiny,' Park i I i L T Blarpereslhnt Book. GLASGOW. [SCOTLAND.] GLASGOW. is one of the finest monumental statues in Glasgow. The Royal Bank, which is situated behind the Exchange, is also a very beautiful building. The Mechanics' Institution. This establishment, as well as the building devoted to its uses, is well deserving of notice. It has an excellent library and a large corps of professors, who lecture to young mechanics on the subjects of chemistry, philosophy, the languages, and all subjects of ordinary education. The other public buildings of Glasgow are numerous, elegant, and substantially built, chief among which are the National Bank, near the Exchange, in Queen's Street, the Athenaeum, Union Bank, Trades' Hall, the County Buildings, Hutcheson's Hospital, etc., etc. The principal picture-gallery in Glasgow is that called the " Corporation Galleries," M'Lellan Buildings, in Sauchiehall Street. It consists of three handsome rooms, and contains copies of many of the most celebrated masters, some few originals of the old masters, and a large number of very indifferent pictures. A large portion, and the better part, was bequeathed to the city by Archibald M'Lellan, who intended it to be the nucleus of a permanent gallery. St. George's Square, at the terminus of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, is the principal square in the city. In the centre is a very striking monument of Sir Waiter Scott. It is composed of a column in the Doric order about eighty feet in height, upon which stands a colossal statue of the great poet, enveloped in a shepherd's plaid. Directly in front of this monument stands a pedestrian statue of Sir John Moore, who was a native of Glasgow. In the southwest angle of the square is Chantrey's bronze figure of James Watt, a native of Glasgow, who in 1763 first applied steam as a motive power; and in the northwest angle a bronze statue of Sir Robert Peel, by Mossman, and one to Lord Clyde, both of whom were natives of Glasgow. Glasgow is blessed with two fine parks, West End, or Kelvin Grove Park, and South Side, or Queen's Park. The former contains forty acres of ground, situated in a most picturesque position. From the high terrace on which are placed the guns taken at the siege of Sebastopol, a magnificent view of the surrounding country may be obtained. At the end of the beech avenue may be seen the old Kelvin Grove House, converted in 1871 into a Museum of Art and Natural History. The two lower floors are devoted to specimens of Glasgow manufacture. In the up-stairs gallery are ancient Roman coins, glass, and pottery, models of the famous Elgin marbles, a splendid Orrery, showing the movements of the heavenly bodies. During the summer season it is in motion every Saturday at two, four, and six o'clock. The galleries contain numerous fine paintings. The museum well deserves a visit. In the immediate vicinity of the museum stands the Stewart Memorial Fountain, erected to commemorate the introduction of Loch Katrine water into Glasgow. The basin of the fountain is sixty feet in diameter. On the summit of the fountain there is a beautiful figure of "the Lady of the Lake," by Mossman. Two of the bronze faces, or panels, contain allegorical subjects representing the introduction of the water: one contains a medallion portrait of the late Lord Provost Stewart; the other contains the following inscription: TO COMMEMORATE TIIF PUBLIC SERVICES OF ROBERT STEVWART, of Murdostown, Lord Provost of the City of Glasgow From Nov., 1851, till Nov., 1854, To whose unwearied exertions The citizens aie mainly indebted for the abundant WATER SUPPLY FROM LOCH KATRINE. THIS FOUNTAIN WAS ERECTED 1S72. James Sellars, Architect. Near the fountain is a fine bronze group presented to his native city by Mr. John S. Kennedy, of New York. The group consists of a tigress carrying a dead peacock to her lair, where she is receiving an affectionate reception from her young cubs. It was modeled from originals by Rosa Bonheur in the Jardin des Plantes, Paris. The Kelvin is crossed close at hand by a new wooden bridge, built in 1868. A large part of this side of the river was added to the park in 1872. Parliament gave Glasgow municipal authority over all the grounds of the New University here, but the building is still unfinished (1875). When finished, it will be a beautiful Gothic edifice 111 GLASGOW. [SCOTLAND.] BOTHWELL CASTLE. 600 feet square, surmounted by a central tower 310 feet high, and will cost $1,500, 000. The library, consisting of 100,000 volumes, is situated on the northern side; also the Hunterian Museum, containing a fine collection of anatomical preparations, coins, MSS., and pictures. Nearly adjoining the park are the Botanic Gardens. Their situation on the banks of the Kelvin is most delightful, and their assortment of flowers and plants most extensive. Half a mile to the west of the gardens a splendid structure may be seen standing in the midst of delightful grounds. This is the Royal Lunatic Asylum, than which no finer exists in Scotland. The Queen's Park, situated on the south side of the city, is much larger than that of Kelvin, containing one hundred and forty acres. It has been beautifully laid out, according to designs by Sir Joseph Paxton; and from the appearance of the beautiful dwellings which are being erected around it, it will soon rival the more fashionable Kelvin. The historical associations connected with the spot are highly interesting. Here the important battle of Langside was fought, in which the hopes of Mary Queen of Scots were crushed by the troops of the Regent Murray. In St. Vincent Place there is an equestrian statue of Queen Victoria by Marochetti, erected to commemorate her visit to Glasgow in 1849. Many of the streets of Glasgow are filled with elegant shops: the principal are Buchanan Street, Argyle Street, and Sauchiehall Street. The iron princes of Glasgow reside at the West End, where the terraces are lovely and the views charming. About one fifth of the population reside on the southern side of the Clyde. Hutchesontown, Kingstown, Lauriston, etc., possess immense factories, splendid streets, etc., indicative of the enterprise, wealth, and great prosperity of the city. The Green Park extends along the north bank of the river. It is surrounded by a carriage-drive, and the diversified walks are shaded by handsome trees, whence may be seen, in the direction of the southeast, environed by beautiful country-seats, Castlemilk, where Mary Queen of Scots lodged on the night previous to the battle of Lang112 side, where all her hopes were permanently crushed. The " Queen's Seat," on the top of Catlin Hill, may be seen, where it is said the unfortunate Mary witnessed the defeat of her forces. Trains leave Glasgow daily for Edinburgh, Loch Lomond, Stirling, London, Liverpool, Avr, Dumfries, Carlisle, Perth, Aberdeen, and Dundee. Steamers sail daily in summer for Oban, Rothesay, Arran, Inverary, Dublin, Belfast, Londonderry, Staffa and Iona, Bristol, and Swansea. Glasgow to Fort William and Inverness three times each week, and weekly to Stornoway, Arisaig, Inverie, and for New York. ROUTE No. 37. Glasgow to Bothwell Castle, Hamilton Palace, Lanark, and the Falls of the Clyde. This lovely excursion can be made comfortably in one day by taking the Caledonian Railway, getting out at Blantyre Station, crossing the suspension bridge over the Clyde to Bothwell Castle, and thence to Bothwell Bridge, through the Duke of Hamilton's grounds to the palace; there cross the Clyde near Motherwell Station, by sail thirteen miles, to Lanark, whence, after visiting the Falls of the Clyde, you may return to Glasgow, a distance of twenty-nine miles, or proceed to Edinburgh, thirty miles distant. Visitors are generally admitted into Bothwell Castle on Tuesdays and Fridays; but, as the time may be changed, the traveler had better inquire at the hotel. This historical stronghold is now the property of the Countess of Home, to whom it reverted in 1857, on the death of her uncle, Baron Douglas. The modern residence is a short distance from the ruins of the castle. The building is an oblong quadrangle, built in the Norman style of architecture, 234 feet long and 100 wide. The walls are 14 feet thick and 60 high. There HAMILTON PALACE. [SCOTLAND.] FALLS OF THE CLYDE. is an immense circular dungeon, called Wallace's Beef-barrel, 25 feet deep by 12 wide. The ruins, which are now covered with ivy and.beautiful wall-flowers, was once the residence of the haughty chieftain, Sir Andrew Murray, who was the first to join the hero Wallace, and the last to leave him. After Murray was outlawed, Edward I. bestowed it on the Earl of Pembroke, who commanded the English-forces in Scotland. After the expulsion of the English, it was bestowed by Bruce on his brother-in-law Murray, and passed after that time, through various hands, to the Earl of Bothwell, on whose attainder, in the reign of Queen Mary, it reverted to the family of Douglas. Bothwell Bridge, which you cross to visit Hamilton Palace, was the scene of the famous encounter between the royal army and the Covenanters, in which the latter were signally defeated by the Duke of Monmouth. Hamilton Palace is situated about two miles distant from Bothwell Bridge, and close by the town of Hamilton, which contains a population of 900 souls. The palace is a beautiful building, built in the Corinthian style of architecture. The facade is 264 feet long by 60 high, and is in imitation of the Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. The interior, which can only be seen on application to the duke, is one of the most beautiful in Europe. 1 he picture-gallery contains many gems; in fact, gems and reli's of great value meet your eye in every dir ction. There are some 2000 pictures, including Reubens's, Leonardo da Vinci's, T1itian's, Rembrandt's, Vandyke's, Guido's, Carlo Dolci's, and Correggio's. Among the relics are the ring given by Queen Mary to Lord John Hamilton; also her cabinet and jewel-case; the gun with which Bothwell shot the Regent Murray; the traveling-chest of Napoleon; a magnificent table, made of Sevres china, presented to the present duchess by the Empress Eugenie, etc., etc. To the Motherwell Station is two miles, where we take the cars to Lanark, which is historically noted as being the place whence Wallace set out on the glorious expedition of freeing his native country: a statue of the hero decorates the entrance to the parish church. The Falls of the Clyde are two miles dis tant from Lanark, and are reached by passing through the lovely grounds of Bonnington Linn, owned by Sir Charles Ross. The first fall has a perpendicular descent of about 30 feet; below this fall the current hurries along with fearful rapidity through a chasm not more than 14 feet in width. Half a mile below this is the principal fall, called Corra Linn; here the water makes three distinct leaps, in all about 85 feet. Opposite is a pavilion fitted up with mirrors, which give the falls a very interesting appearance. There are numerous other romantic and historical places of importance in the vicinity, which the local guides will point out-many of them apocryphal, and many of them probably correct. Another manner of making this excursion is to take the train at the Buchanan Street Station to Lanark, visit the falls in the immediate vicinity, then drive to Hamilton, and return by train from Bothwell to Glasgow. ROUTE No. 38. Glasgow to Rothsay and Arran, via Dumbarton Castle, Helensburg, Greenock, and Dunoon. If it is not the traveler's intention to visit the Castle of Dumbarton on the route to or from Loch Lomond, it would be better perhaps to take the railway from Glasgow, and then the steamer from Dumbarton, as sometimes there is a most disagreeable odor arising from the water. Four or five trains leave daily. There are steamers twice a day from Glasgow orGreenock to Rothesay. Should you not have entered Scotland by the Clyde, by all means take the steamer at Glasgow, as the immense number of iron ships in different stages of construction which one passes between Glasgow and Greenock are well worth seeing. The distance is twenty miles. Passing in succession the Napier Dock, where the Cunard steamers receive their engines; the Thom118 RENFBEW [SCOTLAND.] GREENOCK. sons' yard, from which Mr. D. MacBrayne's fleet were launched; then Robert Napier & Sons' and other yards, where many of the Inman and other magnificent ships have been built, Renfrew is reached. This is the capital of the county which gives the Prince of Wales his title of Baron. It is now a place of small importance, containing about 4200 inhabitants. A railway runs from here to Paisley. The banks of the river are built like dikes, to prevent the surrounding country from an overflow, and monster dredging-machines, similar to those used in excavating the Suez Canal, are continually moving about deepening the bed of the river. After passing Kilpatrick, where it has been asserted St. Patrick was born, Bowling is reached. Here the passengers who wish to visit Dumbarton Castle must land. From this prosperous village the Forth and Clyde Canal commences, which cuts the isthmus, and connects the Firth of Forth with the Firth of Clyde. It is thirty-eight miles in length, includes thirty-nine locks, and follows the line of the Roman Wall. This wall was rebuilt by Lollius Urbicus, under the Emperor Antonine, by whose name it was called; but it was originally built by Agricola in A.D. 81, and was the most northerly of the four walls erected by the Romans to protect themselves from the incursions of the warlike Picts. It is said that on this wall St. Patrick's father was employed under the Romans. Below Bowling is the ivy-covered Castle of Dunglass, in front of which stands a small obelisk erected to the memory of Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation into Great Britain. His first attempt was the "Comet," a steamer of three-horse power, which was launched in 1812. Dumbarton Castle is now seen, rising nearly 600 feet above the level of the river -that is, the mound on which the castlebuildings are located, for Dumbarton is not a castle in the sense in which we generally mean a castle, but a stronghold in the shape of a hill, on the summit of which are located different buildings-barracks, armory, governor's house, etc. The armory contains the two-handed sword of the hero Wallace, and was also at one time the place of his confinement. It was held for Edward I. for four years by Sir John Monteith, the betrayer of Wallace, who was at 114 that time governor of the castle. Que n Mary was conveyed here from France while yet an infant; Charles I. and Oliver Cromwell have successively occupied it; Queen Victoria visited it in 1847. There is a branch railway from Dumbarton to Helensburg. Two miles below Dumbarton are the ruins of Cardross Castle, where Robert the Bruce died in 1329, and where he spent the last few peaceful days of his existence. A short distance lower down, on the left, may be seen the ruins of Finlayston Hlouse, a great resort of John Knox, the Reformer. Port Glasgow, formerly the port of Glasgow, as its name indicates, contains 11,000 inhabitants. It was formerly a place of considerable importance previous to the deepening of the Clyde; now all vessels which do not stop at Greenock ascend direct to Glasgow. Notice on a low neck of land the Castle of Newark, the property of the Shaw-Stewart family. Greenock contains a population of 57,138. Principal hotel, Tontine. This is a thriving sea-port; over 100 steamers per day touch at its docks. Ship-building, iron-works, cotton and wool spinning are its principal industries. There is but little here to detain the traveler, although its position is one of surpassing beauty. Its streets are narrow, and not particularly clean. The principal objects of attraction are its Custom-house, Mariners' Asylum, and Watt Monument, erected to commemorate the birthplace of the great engineer. It is a Gothic building, containing a statue by Chantrey, raised by public subscription; also a library presented by his son. The town is well supplied with water from a reservoir about six miles distant. The water is made to drive numerous mills on its way to the city. The citizens are indebted for this, as well as for the Well Park, near the station, to the munificence of the ShawStewart family. Mary Campbell, Burns's " Highland Mary," is buried in the churchyard of the old church. Steamers run from Greenock in every direction. Rail to Glasgow eighteen times each day. Distance twenty-two and a half miles. The watering-places of Gourock, Inverkip, and Wemyss Bay are farther down the river. Helensburg, a very pleasant and cheerful watering-place, much in favor with the , I ", 114 I) 0 F,kI" I I r z -I DUNOON, [SCOTLAND.] LARGS. citizens of Glasgow and Green.ck, lies on the opposite side of the river. Hotels, Imperial and Queen's. Steamers from Greenock in fifteen minutes. Crossing the Firth of Clyde to the opposite shore, the steamer touches at Kimn, a modern place, with small, pretty residences, not unlike Staten Island in appearance. A succession of these villas continues to the very beautiful wateringplace of Dunoon. Argyje Iotel the best. This is really a charming village, of some 5000 inhabitants. The villas are all white, with clean slate roofs, which, with the green foliage with which they are surrounded, present a most charming appearance. The green mound to the left of the pier is surmounted by the remains of the castle of Dunoon, which family belonged to the high stewards of Scotland. It passed into the family of the Argyles in 1472. It was besieged by the Earl of Lenox, in 1554; was visited by Mary in her progress to the Highlands; and has remained in possession of the Argyle family up to the present day. The Duke of Argyle's residence is quite contiguous. It was the scene of a most perfidious massacre in the 17th century. Thirty-six gentlemen of the clan Lamont were decoyed thither from their castle of Toward, and treacherously put to death. Notice, as you pass round Toward Point on leaving Dunoon, the beautiful ruins of Toward Castle, an ivy-covered structure of the 15th century; also the beautiful modern mansion of Mr. Finlay, M.P., whose ancestor, between the years of 1818 and 1841, planted on the estate five millions of trees, redeeming from a state of nature nine hundred acres of territory. Entering the Kyles of Bute, we approach Rothesay, the capital of the island of Bute. The island is about fifteen miles long and three wide. The town contains between 7000 and 8000 inhabitants. Principal hotels, Bute and Queen's, the last outside the town. Near the harbor, and almost surrounded by houses, are the ruins of Rothesay Castle, formerly the residence of the kings of Scotland. It is now covered with ivy and surrounded by a moat. It was taken by the English in the reign of John Baliol, but was afterward surrendered to Robert the Bruce. It was taken and fortified by Edward Baliol in 1334. Robert II. built a palace adjoining the castle, and often residea there. His eldest son, Robert III., was created Duke of Rothesay in a council at Scone, a title which the Prince of Wales still bears, and which was the first introduction of the ducal dignity into Scotland. The Duke of Rothesay also bore the titles of Prince and Steward of Scotland, Earl of Carrick, Lord of the Isles, and Baron Renfrew, all of which the Prince of Wales inherited from Prince David, eldest son of Robert II. of Scotland. The last of these titles, our countrymen will remember, the prince adopted in traveling through our country. The island of Bute, of which Rothesay is the capital, is fifteen miles long in a straight line, and about four broad. The Marquis of Bute is the principal proprietor. The climate is mild and genial, and Rothesay is a favorite watering-place for the citizens of Glasgow. There are numerous Druidical remains on the island. The principal are at Sangalchorid. The Marquis of Bute's residence, Mountstuart, is on the east side of the island, five miles from Rothesay. There are six lakes on the island, the largest of which, Loch Fad, is used by a cotton-spinning company. The principal drives across the island are from Port Bannatyne to Etterick Bay, five miles; to Loch Fad and Kilcattan, returning along the shore by Mountstuart. Continuing on to the south, the steamer soon stops at the resting-place of Largs, celebrated for the battle fought here between Haco, King of Norway, and Alexander III., King of Scotland, in 1263. A storm having arisen while Haco was disembarking his troops, he was vigorously attacked by the Scottish forces, and completely routed. By this victory Alexander obtained possession of the Island of Man and the Hebrides, which had been held by the Danes for four hundred years. The principal hotel is the Brisbane A rms. A visit should be made to Kelbumne Castle, the seat of the Earl of Glasgow, a short distance from Largs. Crossing the bay to Arran, the steamer stops at Millport, situated on the island of Cumbray. Hotels, Millport and Kelburne Arms. This is a very pretty place, and contains an Episcopal college and handsome chapel. There is a permanent pop. 116 ARRAX. [SCOTLAND.] GLASGOW T.O OBAN. ulation of about 1400; but during the season it is crowded with the citizens of Glasgow, for whom it is a favorite resort. The island is about three and a half miles long by two wide, and is owned conjointly by the Marquis of Bute and the Earl of Glasgow. The Garrison is the principal mansion on the island, and is the property of the Earl of Glasgow. The Little Cumbray island lies about one and a half miles to the south. It is about one mile in length. It belongs to the Earl of Eglinton, and is kept as a rabbit-warren. Leaving the two Cumbrays, the steamer crosses the main channel, and lands at Brodick, the principal town in the island of Arran. If intending to remain over night, be certain you telegraph in advance for rooms, as during the season the place is so full it is impossible to obtain any accommodation, as there is only one hotel in the place, The Douglas Arms. The island of A rran is twenty miles long and twelve broad, of which some sixteen thousand acres are cultivated, and, with the exception of a few acres, is the exclusive property of the Duke of Hamilton, who previous to his marriage rarely visited the island, spending most of his time in Paris, as did the late duke, his father. The Earldom of Arran was formerly a royal domain, stocked with red deer and other beasts for the chase, and used as a hunting-ground by the kings of Scotland. At the commencement of the 15th century it was conferred on Sir Thomas Boyd as a marriage dowry by James I., when his sister married that favorite. Sir Thomas was soon after disgraced and divorced, when the princess's hand and the earldom were conferred on Lord James Hamilton, in whose family it has remained until the present time. Some writers assert that Lord Hamilton won the princess and the island in a tournament. Brodick Castle must be familiar to all readers of Sir Walter Scott's " Lord of the Isles." The present castle was reconstructed by the late duke on the model of the ancient fortress, and commands a fine position. The castle was seized by Edward I., and held by Sir John Hastings, but was soon 4fter captured by Bruce and James, Lord Douglas. It was garrisoned by the troops 116~ of the Protector, who having insulted the people of the island, the latter rose and massacred them. The principal excursion on the island is the ascent of the Goatfell, which forms the principal feature in the aspect of the island. It is 2877 feet high, and requires about five hours to make the ascent and descent. It is better to take a guide from the hotel. ROUTE No. 39. Glasgow to Oban, through the Crinan Canal. This is one of the most delightful routes in Scotland, and when connected with Route No. 40 to Staffa and Iona, and Route No. 43, Oban to Inverness, it is doubtful if there be a more interesting excursion in the world. Mr. D. MacBrayne, of whose fleet of steamers we have elsewhere spoken, starts his floating palaces, the "Columba" and the "Iona," every morning during the summer season at 7 o'clock. They sail downthe Clyde,through the Kyles of Bute, and up Loch Fyne to Ardrishaig, thence through the Crinan Canal to the Jura Sound by barge, and by steamer to Oban. The different places of importance on the Clyde as far as Rothesay are noticed in Route No. 38. Time, from Glasgow to Oban, 10 hours; fare 14s. =$3 50. To Inverness: fare, ~1 13s. 6d. =$8 37i. To tourists, through and return tickets are issued on board the "Columba" and "Iona" at a fare and a half. Leaving Rothesay, described in Route No. 38, and passing round the northern point of Bute Island, we encounter most charming scenery on each hand, and every turn our steamer makes discloses new and more exciting beauties. Rounding Ardla, mont Point, we enter the lovely Loch of Fyne, stopping at Tarbet to land passengers in Cantyre; also to take the steamer from Islay or the coach to Campbell A'RDRISIHAO. [SCOTLAND.] OBAN. town, for both of which places there is daily communication (via Tarbet and Loch Fyne) during the year. Overlooking this town is a fine old castle built by Robert the Bruce, and where he resided in 1326. The Loch of Tarbet here almost cuts the peninsula in two. In former times, boats were dragged across the narrow strip of land to avoid the danger of making the circuit of the Mull of Cantyre. Scott, in his "Lord of the Isles," represents Bruce making this passage. Ever the breeze blows merrily, But the galley plows no more the sea, Lest, rounding wild Cantyre, they meet The Southern foeman's watchful fleet. They held unwonted way: Up Tarbet's western lake they bore, Then dragged their bark the isthmus o'er, As far as Kilmaconnel's shore, Upon the eastern bay." Loch Fyne, through which we now pass, is noted for its herring fishery. The fish are highly prized, more for their fine flavor than for their size or fatness. Travelers now land at the village of Ardrishaqg, which is situated at the southeastern terminus of the Crinan Canal (hotel, Royal), and, walking a few hundred yards, enter an elegant and roomy canal steamer, a splendid barge, which cleaves her way through the limpid element in the midst of most charming and novel scenery. The sensation is delightful and decidedly novel. The canal contains fifteen locks in all, but our barge passes through but nine, the whole distance being nine miles, saving sixty-nine in not having to double the Mull of Cantyre. Notice, after passing the last lock, and before arriving at the village of CIinan, away to the right the beautiful mansion of Poltalloch, which was built by its owner, Mr. Malcolm, at a cost of over $500,000. The estate extends in some directions nearly forty miles. To the left, after joining the splendid saloon steamer "Chevalier " at Crinan,on the Jura Sound, is Downie House, where Thomas Campbell, the poet, lived in his younger days in the capacity of tutor. We now pass through Loch Craigneish, which is studded with beautiful, picturesque, and verdant isles, during which time a very fine dinner is served on board at the remarkably low rate of 2s. 6d. After crossing Jura Sound, to your left may be seen the Strait of Corrivreckan, which sepa rates the islands of Jura and Scarba. Here is situated the famous whirlpool spoken of by Campbell, Scott, Leyden, and others. "As you pass through Jura's Sound, Bend your course by Scarba's shore; Shun, oh shun the gulf profound, Where Corrivreckan's surges roar." Passing through the Sound of Luing, Benmore, the highest mountain (3170 feet) in Mull, may be seen to our right. After threading our way through numerous islands, such as Seil, Easdale, Shuna, Luing, etc., noted for their fine state, and mostly belonging to the Marquis of Breadalbane, one of the largest land proprietors in Scotland, we enter Kerrera Sound. On the island of the same name, which forms a natural breakwater to the harbor of Oban,may be seen Gillean Castle, once the residence of the Macleans. We now enter the lovely harbor of Oban. Best hotel, Great Western, than which a finer does not exist in Scotland; the cuisine is unexceptionable, and the view from its windows most glorious. Oban is one of the most healthy and pleasant summer retreats in the Highlands, and during the summer months is filled with travelers coming from Glasgow, from Inverness, and other places, who make this the starting-point for Staffa, ona, and other excursions. The Free Church of Oban is a very pretty building; it was erected at the expense of the Marquis of Breadalbane. The steamers run to Staffa and Iona daily except Sundays. Be particular and make this excursion the first fine day. Should the day, after arriving, turn out bad, visit instead the castles of Dunolly and Dunstaffnage. The ruins of Dunolly Castle are situated upon a bold and precipitous rock which overhangs Loch Etive, and is about half a mile distant from Oban. Apart from the wildly beautiful appearance of the ruins, the view from their summit is the most glorious on which our gaze ever restedinlets, bays, lochs, and islands surround you on every side, with every variety of surface, from wildly bleak to softly fair. Dunolly Castle was in former times the stronghold of the Lords of Lorn, and is now in possession of Admiral McDougal, a lineal descendant of that ancient family, whose modern and modest mansion stands immediately behind the castle. 117. DUNSTAFFNAGE. [SCOTLAND.] DUNSTAFFNAGE. That part of the castle in the best state of preservation is the donjon, to the top of which you can ascend with the aid of a ladder. (l(e wonder it is not put in some state of preservation. A very slight expense would not only prevent it from tumbling to pieces, but would admit visitors to the top, from which they are now excluded, we suppose, on account of the danger in reaching it.) But one may rest perfectly satisfied reclining for hours on the mossy surface of the court-yard, seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, and gaze on the enchanting sight around it. In one corner of the court-yard is a cage, where for twenty years a noble eagle was chained. He was a source of particular interest to the family as well as to visitors from abro id. The poet Wordsworth, when he visited Oban in 1831, composed some verses suggested by the appearance of this king of birds. A few years since, some scoundrels who had gained admittance to the ruins set some dogs upon the poor caged prisoner and killed him-not, however, before his assailants had shared a similar fate. Before reaching Dunolly Castle from Oban, notice a huge, isolated mass of stone which rises abruptly from the shore, and has the appearance of an inverted cone. It is known by the name of Clach-a-choin, or Dog-stone. Tradition says it was to this stone that the hero Fingal chained his faithful dog Bran. To open the gate of the castle you must procure the key from the woman who keeps the lodge, to whom you pay a small fee, and return the key. Returning fron Dunolly Castle, unless fond of long walks, the traveler had better take a carriage to make the excursion to Duwstajfnage, which is a long three miles. The castle is situated near the foot of Loch Etive, a beautiful position, and commands a magnificent prospect. It was in ancient times the seat of Scottish royalty, and is still a proud and beautiful ruin. It is supposed to have been erected by Celtic chieftains after the expulsion of the Northmen. Dunstaffnage is noted, in a historical point of view, for having preserved for a long time the Palladium of Scotland -the celebrated stone of Dunstaffnage, on which the early Scottish kings sat when they were crowned. According to tradition, this stone was first brought from 118 the East, and is said to be the same on which Jacob slept on the plain of Luz. It is asserted by Irish chroniclers that it was first brought from Spain, and placed on the Hill of Tara, where the kings of Ireland were installed; thence it was removed to Dunstaffnage, and from Dunstaffnage to Scone by Kenneth II. The ceremony of installation in Ireland was performed by a Druidical priest, who repeated in ancient Irish-Gaelic a rhyme which has been translated thus: " Consider, Scot, where'er you find this stone, If fates fail not, there fixt must be your home.' This prophecy was supposed to have been fulfilled when James VI. of Scotland succeeded to the throne of England, and was crowned on the old Dunstaffnage stone. It is at the present time fixed to the bottom of the coronation-chair at Westminster, and the sovereigns of England are crowned on it at the present day. Dunstaffnage was in possession of the Lords of Lorn when it was captured by Robert the Bruce. In the early part of the fifteenth century the castle was granted to an an. cestor of the family of Campbells, who hold possession of it to-day. Steamers leave Oban daily for Glasgow by the Crinan Canal; for Inverness by the Caledonian Canal; for Ballachulish; for Glencoe; also on Tuesday and Friday mornings to the island of Lewis; daily for Staffa and Iona during the season. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays for Portree (island of Skye) and Gairloch. Also every Tuesday morning for Loch Scavaig and Coolin Hills. Coaches leave Oban daily for Inverary by Connel Ferry, Taynuilt, Pass of Awe, and Dalmally. To Loch Lomond through Dalmally,Tyndrum, -and Inverarnan. Also to Ardrishaig by Lochs Nell and Feochan. DUART CASTLE. [SCOTLAND.] ARDTORNISH CASTLE. in some measure on that cause, no man has ROUTE No. 40. a right to expose his wife, in consequence From Oban to the islands of Stafa and of an ordinary domestic disagreement, upon Iona. Ordinary time, 12 hours, which in- a wave-washed rock, with the probability eludes an hour's stay at Staffa; the same of her catching cold in the first place, and at Iona. Fare, ~1 =5. The steamer the certainty of being drowned in the sec"Pioneer," of Mr. David MacBravne's ond; but some accounts say she had twice line, leaves the dock at Oban each morn- attempted her husband's life, and so asing at 8 A.M. during the summer season. suredly she deserved to be most severely Should the weather be rough, it is impos- reprimanded. Be this as it may, Lauchsible to land at Staffa, and the excursion lan carried the lady to the rock in quesmay be disagreeable; whereas nothing can tion, where he left her at low water, no be more pleasant and delightful than this doubt desiring that at high water she would trip in agreeable weather. Be particular be seen no more. However, it so chanced therefore to notice the state of affairs on that her cries, 'piercing the night's dull the morning after your arrival at Oban, ear,' were heard by some passing fisherand act accordingly; if the time be disa- men, who, subduing their fear of watergreeable, make the excursions in the vi- witches, or thinking that they had at last cinity of Oban, but be certain you wait for caught a mermaid, secured the fair one, good weather for Staffa. The course of the and conveyed her to her own people, to steamer round the "dark Mull" and whom, of course, she told her version of through its "mighty sound" is determined the story. We forget what legal steps by the direction of the wind. If from the were taken (a sheriff's warrant passed for north or northeast, we pass through the little in those days, at least at Mull), but Sound of Kerrera, and first visit Iona, then considerable feudal disorders ensued in Staffa; if in a contrary direction, we pass consequence, and the Laird of Duart was through the Sound of Mull, and visit Staffa eventually assassinated in bed one night first. Thelatterbeing the ordinary course, (in Edinburgh) by Sir John Campbell, of although not the one taken by the author, Calder, the brother of the bathed lady. we will describe it in that order. We hope this was the means of reconciling Notice, on the right, as we leave the har- all parties." bor, the magnificent position of Dunolly On our right we pass Ardtornish Castle, Castle; then, farther up the loch, that of in a situation most wild and beautiful. It Dunstaffnage. Passing Lismore Island was in former times one of the principal on the right (where the Roman Catholics strong-holds of the Lords of the Isles durformerly had a large seminary for training ing their highest pitch of independence. their priests), we near the shore of Mull, It was here that Sir Walter Scott laid the at the most prominent point of which stands early scenes of the Lord of the Isles: Duart Castle, in ancient times the strong-," eneath the cistle's sheltering lee hold of the M'Leans, and guarding the They staid their course in quiet sea. Sound of Mull. Here lived the " tyrant lewn in the rock a passage there of the strait;" and nearly opposite is the Sought the dark fortress by a stair So7 straight, so high, so steop, Lady Rock, where the tyrant M'Lean With pea-ant's staff one valiant hand placed his wife, the incident upon which Might well the dizzy path have mann'd Joanna Baillie founded her drama of the 'Gainst hundreds armed with spear and brand, Family Legend, and the poet Campbell his And pllnged them in the deep." poem of Glengara. Professor Wilson's The steamer now enters the harbor of brother describes the incident in his " Voy- Tobermory, the principal village in Mull, age Around the Coast of Scotland and the near which is the ancient castle of DrumIsles:" fin, one of the former possessions of the "Lauchlan Cattanaclhl M'Lean, of Duart, Lairds of Coll. Seven miles farther we had married a daughter of Archibald, sec- pass, on the left, the Castle of Mingarry, ond Earl of Argyle, with whom it may be which "o'erawed the woodland and the presumed he lived on bad terms. What- waste," and was formerly a residence of the ever may have been the cause, although Mac-lans, a sept of the Macdonalds, who the character of the act alluded to depends were descended from the Lords of the Isls,. 119 STAFFA. [SCOTLAND.] I oNA. We are now in sight of the famed Staffa, with various hues of green, red, and gold; passing on our left the islands Ulva and and then the wild but mellow moan of each Gometra, both of which are skirted with successive surge, as it rolls everlastingly basaltic columns regular as those of Staffa. over the ends of the lower pillars, can not There is a magnificent cave at Ulva, sixty fail to fill the traveler with admiration and feet square and thirty in height. awe at this most wondrous of the works of Staffa is situated about eight miles from Nature, the western shore of Mull, is about two " Where, as to shame the temples deck'd miles in circumference, and was unknown By skill of earthly architect, to the scientific world before the year 1772, Nature herself, it seems, would raise when Sir Joseph Banks visited Iceland. A minster toher Maker's praise I Not for a meaner use ascend There is nothing particular in the appear- Her columns, or her arches bend; ance of Staffa from the distance, but as we | Nor of a theme less solemn tells approach the shore its peculiar formation Th! t mity surge that ebbs and swells, And still between each awful pause is distinctly visible, and one can plainly Fro the high vault an answer draws, see the origin of its name Staffa, which In varied form prolong' d and high, signifies, in the Scandinavian, " Island of That mocks the organ's melody; Nor doth its entrance front in vain Columns." After landing from the steam- To old Iona's holy fane er in small boats, which in moderate weath- That Nature's voice might seem to say, er is quite practicable, the boatmen being Well hast thou done, frail child of clay! hardy and skillful (it is very seldom that Thy humble powers that stately shrine Task'd high and hard-but witness mine." the sea is so smooth as to allow boats to be rowed into Fingal's Cave), we pass over a There are numerous other caves in difrugged causeway formed of truncated col- ferent parts of the island, the principal of umns, passing on our left a conical island which are Mackinnon's Cave, Boat.Cave, of basaltic pillars, about thirty feet high, Clam-shell Cave, etc., etc.; but the steamwhich appear to great advantage in low er remains merely long enough to visit the water: this is called the Herdsman. As principal, which is Fingal's. The popular we proceed round the projecting part of tradition among the natives is that Fingal the cliff (after making the descent of a (who was the father of Ossian), or Fin rugged stairway one hundred feet long), M'Coul, the giant, built the cave. the pillars over which we walk gradually From the mouth of the cave, Iona, or the increase in magnitude and proportion; the "Blessed Isle," may be seen at a distance ends of the columns vary from twelve to of some seven miles, to which we now prothirty-six inches. The way to the interior ceed. The steamer comes to anchor in is most precarious, and many persons dread front of the village of Iona, which consists to make the trial. It is not so difficult as of some forty or fifty thatched cottages. it appears, but you must have considerable The landing is rather difficult, as it is impluck to enter into the innermost recesses possible to build permanent wharves, the of the cave; half way may be done with winter's storms invariably breaking them comparative safety. Here you can stand up. On landing, the traveler is beset with and gaze "with undisturbed reverence on groups of children offering for sale shells the effect of those proportions, where the and pebbles. This is an old custom, as almighty hand that made the worlds, the pilgrims and travelers invariably carry Sovereign Architect, has deigned to work away some relic of the isle, which in foras if with human art." mer times were considered charms against This most magnificent temple of Na- all manner of diseases. Iona is first known tpre's architecture is 220 feet long, 66 feet in history as the spot chosen by Columba higih at mean tide, 42 feet wide at the mouth as his head-quarters for the purpose of conof the cave, and 22 at the inner extrem- verting Northern Britain to Christianity, ity. Its sides are columnar, and nearly and here he landed with twelve other saints perpendicular; the countless columns are (having arrived from Ireland in an open beautifully jointed and most symmetrical boat) in the year 568. Tytler says that by throughout. The ends of the columns, the courage, zeal, and ability of this great which form the gallery overhead, are beau- and good man, the greater portion of the tifully irregular, and tinted by the light Pictish dominions was converted to the 12Q IONA. [SCOTLAND.] GLENCOE. Christian faith. He died in the 77th year of his age, "a man not less distinguished by his zeal or activity in the dissemination of the Gospel, than by simplicity of manners, sweetness of temper, and holiness of life." The island became so reputed for its sanctity that it obtained preference in Scotland over all other burial-places. Forty Scottish kings alone were buried at Iona, two Irish kings, one French king, and two Norwegian princes. Here Duncan I. and his murderer, Macbeth, were both interred. Iona was also called Icolmekill; and Shakspeare makes Rosse ask, " Where is Duncan's body? Macdeft: Carried to Colme-kill, The sacred store-house of his predecesAnd guardian of their bones." Tradition also stated that Iona's island alone should be saved during the next deluge. "Seven years before tile end of the world A deluge shall drown the nations. The sea at one tide shall cover Ireland And tile green-headed Islay, but Coliimbo's isle Shall swim above the flood." The principal ruins now to be seen on the island are: first in importance, the Cathedral of St. Mary. Its architecture is of different styles; it is built in the form of a cross; its length is about 160 feet, the transept being about 70; its tower is about 70 feet high, and an air of grandeur pervades the whole ruin. There are numerous tomb-stones inside the walls of great antiquity: here many of the Lords of the Isles were interred. St. Oran's Chapel, another ruin of importance, stands within an inclosure 60 feet long by 22 broad: here may be seen the tomb of Macdonald, Lord of the Isles; also Ronald, Scott's Lard of the Isles: " The heir of mighty Somerled Ronald, from many a hero sprung, The fair, the lofty, an l the young, Lord of the Isles, whose 1 f y name A thousand bards have given to fame, The mate of monarchs, and allied On equal terms with England's pride." Near this stands St. Martin's Cross, a beautiful specimen of antique carving: this is about the only perfect specimen of the 360 similar crosses that once adorned the island. Maclean's Cross is another fine specimen, which the visitor will notice on his way from the Nunnery (the first ruin visited) to the Cathedral. The Nunnery is VOL. I.-F the most modern of all the ruins, but has no connection with the other monastic institutions of the island; the style of architecture is Norman, and probably dates back to about the middle of the 13th century. The tombstone of the last prioress, the Princess Anna, is still in a fine state of preservation. Boats may be hired in Iona to convey parties to Staffa. Return to Oban by the southern coast of Mull, the whole length of which contains most interesting sights in the matter of singular rocky formations. Travelers wishing to make the tour to the island of Skye will find two fine steamers of Mr. David Mac 3rayne sailing daily for Portree and Stornoway, on the distant island of Lewis; they leave Oban about seven in the morning, and arrive at Portree the same evening, and at Stornoway the following morning. ROUTE No. 41. Oban to Glencoe. This is an excursion which may be made in one day from Oban during the summer months. One of Mr. David MacBrayne's steamers leaves Oban daily during the season at 7.45 A.M. for Ballachulish, where vehicles are waiting to convey passengers to Glencoe, and reconducting them back to the steamer. At 1.30 in the afternoon they proceed on to Inverness and Fort William if they wish, or return to Oban, after visiting Banavie. See Route No. 43. The steamer passes on up Loch Linnhe, one of Scotland's most beautiful lakes, enters Loch Leven, and lands its passengers at Ballachulish, where there is a fine hotel. Here the traveler takes coach for Glencoe, which excels every glen in Scotland in the dreary magnificence of its scenery, and here, it is said, the famed Ossian was born, and lived on the banks of the wild but lovely Cona, which rushes through part of the glen. [Passengers may continue 121 GLENCOE. [SCOTLAND.] GLENCOE. through this glen by stage to Loch Lomond, returning to Glasgow, by booking their names at Oban; or to Tyndrum from Ballachulish, in 6 hrs. 15 min.; fare, $4; thence by rail to Glasgow in 4 hrs.; whole fare, $6 50. Oban to Tyndrum, $3 50.] Here lies the scene of the infamous massacre of the clan Macdonald by English troops, after the clan had given in' its submission before the time allotted, the particulars of which may be read in Scott's "Tales of a Grandfather," or in Macaulay's " History of England." " In the beginning of the year 1692 an action of unexampled barbarity disgraced the government of William in Scotland. In the August preceding a proclamation had been issued, offering an indemnity to such insurgents as should take the oaths of allegiance to the king and queen on or before the last day of December; and the chiefs of such clans as had been in arms for James soon after took advantage of the proclamation. But Macdonald of Glencoe was prevented, by accident rather than design, from tendering his submission within the limited time. In the end of December lie went to Colonel Hill, the governor of Fort William, and tendered to him his oath of allegiance. But this officer had no power to receive it. Sympathizing, however, with the distress of the old chieftain, he furnished him with a letter to Sir Colin Campbell, sheriff of Argyleshire, requesting him to receive Macdonald's submission, and administer the oath to him, that he might have the advantage of the indemnity. Macdonald hastened from Fort William to Inverary with such eagerness that, though the road lay within half a mile of his own house, he stepped not aside to visit his family. But the way to Inverary lay through almost impassable mountains, the season was extremely rigorous, and the whole country was covered with snow. In consequence of these obstructions, the illfated chief did not reach Inverary till after the prescribed time had elapsed. The sheriff, however, in the circumstances of the case, yielding to the importunities and even tears of Macdonald, administered to him the oath of allegiance, and sent off an express to the Privy Council certifying the fact, and explaining the cause of the delay. "But Macdonald had unfortunately rendered himself obnoxious to Sir John Dal122 rymple, afterward Earl of Stair, secretary of state for Scotland, and to the powerful Earl of Breadalbane, whose lands the Glencoe men had plundered, and whose plans for the pacification of the Highlands the chieftain had himself thwarted and exposed. He was now made to feel the weight of their vengeance. The Sheriff of Argyle's letter was treacherously kept back, and the certificate of Macdonald's having taken the oath was blotted out from the books of the Privy Council. The king was persuaded that the Macdonalds were the main obstacles to the pacification of the Highlands and sanguinary orders for proceeding to military execution against the clan were in consequence obtained. The warrant was both signed and countersigned by the king's own hand, and the secretary urged the officers who commanded in the Highlands to execute their orders with the utmost rigor. "Campbell of Glenlyon, a captain in Argyle's regiment, and two subalterns, were ordered to repair to Glencoe, on the 1st of February, with 120 men. Campbell being uncle to young Macdonald's wife, was received by the chief and his followers with the utmost friendship and hospitality. The men were lodged at free quarters in the houses of the clan, and received the kindest entertainment. Till the 13th of the month the troops lived in the utmost harmony and familiarity with the people, and on the very night of the massacre Glenlyon passed the evening at cards in his own quarters with Macdonald's sons. In the night, Lieutenant Lindsay, with a party of soldiers, called in a friendly manner at the chieftain's house, and was instantly admitted. Macdonald, while in the act of dressing himself, and giving orders for refreshments to be procured for his visitors, was shot dead at his own bedside. His aged wife had already dressed, but she was stripped naked by the soldiers, who tore the rings off her fingers with their teeth. The slaughter now became general, and neither age nor sex was spared. In one place nine persons, as they sat enjoying themselves at table, were butchered by the soldiers. At the hamlet where Glenlyon had his own quarters, nine men, including his landlord, were bound by the soldiers, and then shot one by one. Thirtyeight persons in all were massacred by the troops, and several who fled to the mount GLASGOW TO INVERARY. [SCOTLAND.] INVERARY. ains perished by famine and the inclemency of the season. Those who escaped owed their lives to a tempestuous night. Lieutenant-Colonel Hamilton, who had received the charge of the execution from the secretary of state, was on his march with 100 men to guard the eastern passes from the valley of Glencoe, but he was prevented by the severity of the weather from reaching the scene of the massacre till the survivors of the unfortunate clan had made their escape. He entered the valley next day, laid the houses in ashes, and carried away the cattle and spoil, which were divided among the officers and soldiers." [Travelers not wishing to proceed to Inverness or to return to Oban, can continue by coach to the head of Loch Lomond, or to Tarbet, or take the railway at Strath for Stirling, Glasgow, or Edinburgh.] Passengers now return to Ballachulish, whence the steamer leaves for Banavie at 1.30 P.M., arriving at Fort William at 2.30 and at Banavie at 3.30. If returning to Oban the same day, the steamer leaves at 4 P.M., arriving at Oban at 7 P.M. If proceeding on to Inverness, you spend the night at Banavie, and leave there at 8 A.M., arriving at Inverness at 4.45 P.M. ROUTE No. 42. Glasgow to Inverary, via Dunoon, Kilmun, holy Loch, Loch Eck, and Loch Fyne. Or by steamer from Glasgow or Greenock every morning through the Kyles of Bute, the same route as that taken to Oban as far as West Tarbet, then up Loch Fyne to Inverary: this is the most tedious route, and the least attractive, but there is no change of steamer all the way. Another route is from Glasgow through Loch Long to Arroquhar, a distance of four and a half hours' sail from Glasgow. This place was formerly the seat of the chief of the Clan Macfarlane. From this point to Inverary, a distance of twenty miles, the scenery is beautiful; six miles is through the desolate glen of Glencroe, passing Loch Restal, and through the lonely valley of Glenkinglas to Cairndow Inn; thence across Loch Fyne by a ferry of six and a half miles, rounding Strome Point, crossing the River Shiray, and arriving at Inverary. The route via Holy Loch and Loch Eck must be made by private carriage from Dunoon —described in Route No. 38-passing Kilmun. This place boasts of considerable antiquity. It contains the burialvault of the Argyle family. Here repose the remains of the Marquis of Argyle who was beheaded in Edinburgh in 1661, and his head stuck up in the Tolbooth, or jail, of that city. The Parish Church is the ruins of the Collegiate Chapel founded in 1442 by Sir Duncan Campbell, ancestor of the present Argyle family. The road passes along the banks of Loch Eck, which is seven and a half miles in length, and arrives at Strachur, on the banks of Loch Fyne. A short distance up the lake is St. Catharine, where there is a ferry across the loch to Inverary, a distance of two miles. A steamer crosses four times a day. Row-boats cross in half an hour. Inverary. Hotels, Argyle Arms and George. Population 1200. This is the county town of Argyleshire, and residence of the Duke of Argyle, who, since the marriage of his eldest son, the Marquis of Lorne, to the daughter of Queen Victoria, is regarded with much more interest by the passing traveler, it being a rare thing among the royal families of Europe for one of them to step outside the regal circle. The family of Argyle is one of the most ancient in the world. The situation of the town, which consists of one street of whitewashed houses, is delightfully charming, but it owes its importance solely to its herring fishery, and its vicinity to Inverary Castle. The grounds of the castle are open to the public, and a very comfortable hotel is situated close to.the lodge. Cunningham's Burns contains the following lines, written on the window of the hotel here. Burns, not being able to procure much attention in the presence of a large party on a visit to the duke, avenged himself as follows: 123 INVERARY CASTLE. [SCOTLAND.] INVERLOCHY CASTLE. 0t Whoe'er lie be that sojourns here, I pity much his case, Unless lie come to wait upon The lord, their god, his grace. There's naething here but Highland pride, And Highlland cauld and hunger; If Providence has sent me here, 'Twas surely in his anger." The castle is situated about a quarter of a mile above the town, and only dates from 1748. It is constructed of chloriteslate in the castellated style, two stories in height, with round towers at the angles, and surmounted by a square pavilion. The Great Hall, under the centre tower, is filled with ancient armor, also one hundred muskets which were out in "forty-five," when " Royal Charlie" was up in arms as Pretender. The gallery and drawing-room are decorated with some very good pictures. A splendid avenue of beech-trees leads from the hotel to the woods behind the town and Glen Essachosan, while two lovely streams, the Shiray and Aray, emerge from their dark woody retreat, and gently flow to swell the waters of Loch Fyne. For miles around the castle the scene is interspersed with stately trees, soft and gentle meadows, and artificial and natural cascades. An excursion should be made to the top of the hill of Dunaquoich, a picturesque eminence, which may b3 seen from every point of view, and which forms the buttress of the range of hills between the glens of Aray and Shiray. Another excursion is usually made to the granite quarries of the duke at Furnace. During the season coaches leave daily for Oban, passing through the picturesque vale of Glen Aray. There is also a daily coach to Tarbert, on Loch Lomond. A ferry steamer, four times each day for St. Catharine, connecting with coach to Strachur and Dunoon. ROUTE No. 43. Oban to Inverness, via the Caledonian Canal (stopping to visit the Pass of Glencoe). A steamer leaves Oban every morning at 7.45 during the season, stopping at Ballachulish to give travelers an opportunity to visit Glencoe: arriving at Bale lachulish at 9.45 A.M., where carriages are waiting for the Pass of Glencoe. Returning to Ballachulish at 1.30 P.M., and continuing to Banavie, where the steamer arrives about 3.30 P.M., passing Fort William at 2.30 P.M. This fort was originals ly built by General Monk to overawe the disaffected Highlanders. Travelers remain overnight at the Lochiel Arms Hotel, Banavie, a short distance by omnibus from Corpach, and take the saloon steamer next morning at8.20 through the Caledonian Canal, which commences here. (Passengers not going to Inverness return in the same steamer to Oban, arriving at about 7 o'clock P.M.). It is from this point, however, that excursions are made to Ben Nevis, which has recently been proved to be the highest mountain in Great Britain (4406 feet above the level of the sea). Close to the base of this mountain stands the picturesque and prominent Castle of Inverlochy, which is supposed to date back to the time of Edward I. It is in the form of a quadrangle, with four large towers at the corners, each 30 feet high, connected with a wall some 10 feet lower. The southern and western towers are in a good state of preservation, the others are dilapidated. It has been the scene of many bloody engagements. An excursion can be made from Banavie to Arasaig, on the western coast, a distance of thirty-six miles, passing along the banks of Loch Eil and the head of Loch Sheil, where at Glenfinnan stands a monument to "Royal Charlie." Here his banner was unfurled in the presence of the clans Cameron and Macdonald, on the 19th of August, 1745. It was from this district he was compelled to retreat in the following year during the month of September. At Arasaig there is a good hotel. Excursions should be made to Castle Tyrim, a fine old fortress of the fourteenth century. Also to the'Moidart House, the seat of the Robertson family. The old house was burned down by the troops of 124 CALEDONIAN CANAL. [SCOTLAND.] FALLS OF FOYERS. George II., because the Pretender was here lodged for twenty-four days. The Caledonian Canal was a splendid undertaking, and cost the British government some six million dollars: it connects four different lakes, viz., Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, Loch Ness, and Loch Dochfour; the entire length is 60 miles, 39 of lake and 21 of cutting. Loch Lochy is surrounded by black and lofty mountains; its banks, down to the water, are covered by a fine foliage; ibut Loch Oich, the middle lake, only 3~ miles long, is a perfect gem —here You have all the majesty of Alpine grandeur with the softest sylvan beauty. On our left we notice lnvergarry Castle on one of the most prominent headlands. This was the strong-hold of the MIacdonalds. As you approach the castle, a small monument may be seen erected near a spring called the "Well of the Seven Heads;" it was erected by the late Colonel Macdonald, of Glengarry, to commemorate an act of revenge perpetrated by one of his ancestors in the 16th century. The history runs thus: Two sons of the family of Keppoch were sent to France to be educated; while there their father died, and the management of their affairs devolved upon seven brothers, their kinsmen. On the return of the brothers, the elder of whom was chief of the clan, they were murdered by their seven cousins. Macdonald's ancestor executed swift vengeance on the perpetrators of the crime. The monument contains a group of seven sculptured heads, and tells in different languages how swift and deadly was the vengeance: " As a memorial of the ample and summary vengeance which, in the swift course of feudal justice, inflicted by the orders of the Lord Macdonald and Aross, overtook the perpetrators of the foul murder of the Keppoch family, a branch of the powerful and illustrious clan of which his lordship was the chief, this Monument is erected by Colonel Macdonalld, of Glengarry, XVII. Mac-Mic-Alaister, his successor and representative, in the year of our Lord 1812. The heads of the seven murderers were presented at the feet of the noble chief, in Glengarry Castle, after having been washed in this spring; and ever since that event, which took place early in the sixteenth century, it has been known by the name of Tobar-nan-ceann,' or The Well of the Heads." Opinions differ in regard to the justice of this summary act. At the southeast extremity of Loch Ness is situated Fort Augustus, which was erected by the British government for the purpose of keeping the refractory Highlanders in awe. The celebrated Gordon Cumming, the lionhunter, has here a remarkable museum, collected by himself. The greater portion of the curiosities are the skins, skeletons, and horns of wild animals dispatched by himself; his collection of sticks, canes, etc., is most wonderful. Loch Ness is twentyfour miles in length, and its breadth averages about one and a half miles. The mountains on either side are adorned with every kind of vegetation which tends to beautify a landscape. On your left, as you pass up the loch, notice Glenmoriston, a lovely spot, in the centre of which stands the mansion-house of Invermoriston. The scenery in this vicinity is of exquisite beauty. A little farther to the right we arrive at the landing contiguous to the Falls of Foyers, considered the most magnificent cataract in Great Britain. The walk, which is only a mile, is very tedious, and we would most decidedly advise, if there be ladies in the party, to take the conveyance that will be found at the landing. (As it is generally filled in about five seconds after the boat touches, the gentlemen of the party had better be in a hurry to secure seats for the ladies.) The height of the fall is about eighty-five feet, and much depends on the season of the year or state of the weather, its beauty being in proportion to the volume of water which rushes over the precipice. The lower and principal fall is best seen from the spot called the " Green Point." On our left, at the mouth of Glen Urquhart, stands the venerable ruin of Urquhart Castle, which dates back to the 13th cen. tury. The castle was built on an isolated 125 INVERNESS. [SCOTLAND.] IRVINE. rock, and separated from the hill behind it by a wall twenty-five feet high and sixteen broad; its situation is one of surpassing loveliness. The outlet of the canal is at Muirtown Quay, one mile and a half fior Inverness. We now arrive at Inverness, the capital of the Highlands. The principal hotels are the Caledonian, Railway, and Union. The population of Inverness is about 15,000. There is nothing of importance to be seen in the town, which is of great antiquity. The streets are clean, and the houses are well built. The River Ness, on both sides of which the town is built, is crossed by a fine suspension bridge. St. Andrew's Cathedral is a modern Gothic building, the towers not yet finished. There is also an Academy, well conducted. On an eminence in the southeastern part of the town stood a castle built by Malcolm, son of the murdered Duncan. He it was who destroyed the castle which formerly stood here, where it is supposed that Macbeth murdered his father. James I. held a Parliament here, at which nearly all the Scottish chiefs gave in their allegiance. The castle was blown up in 1746 by the troops of Prince Charles Stuart. The shipping of Inverness is quite considerable, the tonnage of the port being over ten thousand. One of the principal excursions from the city is to Craig-Phadric, a vitrified fort, which lies about a mile to the west. American travelers should endeavor to be at Inverness about the 20th of September, when the meeting of the clans takes place. The Highland games are very interesting, and several days are spent in this amusement. Steamers every day to Oban. Railway daily for Perth; also for Aberdeen, via Elgin; to Lewis, via Strome Ferry; to Thurso and Wick. ROUTE No. 44. Glasgoe to Ayr and Girvan (the land of Burns), via Paisley and Troon. 126 This is one of the most important excursions from Glasgow, the birthplace of Scotland's favorite, Robert Burns. The whole can be well done in one day, leavini by the early train in the morning, and returning by the last train at night; but, if not pressed for time, two or three days may well be spent in visiting the different localities. The distance is 40 miles from Glasgow by rail, and there is a very good hotel at Ayr, the King's Arms. Four miles from Glasgow we notice the ruins of Crookston Castle, situated on an eminence on the banks of the White Hart; it was formerly the property of the Stuarts of Lennox, and was inhabited by Queen Mary when Darnley was paying her his addresses. Seven miles from Glasgow we pass through the town of Paisley, noted for its cotton, silk, plaids, and Canton-crape shawl manufactories. It contains a population of 50,000. The Abbey Church is well worth a visit. A short distance from Paisley, on the left, we pass the celebrated Oak of Elderslie, under which Wallace hid from the English forces. At Kilwinning Junction, a short distance farther, may be seen the ruins of Kilwinning Priory, founded in 1140 by Hugh de Morville. Freemasonry was first introduced into Scotland by the founders and builders of this priory, and it was for many centuries the parentlodge of that order on the island. Four miles and a half from Kilwinning the town of Irvine is reached. It contains a population of 7000. Hotel, King's Arms. This was the birthplace of Montgomery, the poet, and the residence of the Montgomerys, Earls of Eglinton. It was also the temporary residence of Burns, who was here occupied in the flax-dressing business. Robert Bruce here surrendered to the English army under Percy. Twenty miles from Glasgow we pass Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Montgomery family, who came from Normandy with William the Conqueror. One of the family, Sir Hugh Montgomery, took prisoner the famous Hotspur Henry Percy. The family were raised to the peerage in the fifteenth century. A short distance from Irvine, standing on an elevated position on the left, is the ancient castle of Dundonald, which gives the title of earl to the family of Cochrane. It was formerly the property of Robert TROON. [SCOTLAND.] II. of Scotland, who died here in 1390. The property, with the exception of the castle, is now in the possession of the Earl of Eglinton: that and five roods of land are still retained by Lord Dundonald. A short distance from the castle are the remains of an ancient church dedicated to the Virgin, where it is said James IV. uniformly made an offering of fourteen shillings. Four and a half miles from Irvine is the village of Troon. Hotel, Portland. Population 2525. This is a thriving sea-port town, being the principal shipping-port of Ayrshire. It is much visited as a watering-place by the citizens of Kilmarnock, to which town it is connected by a branch railway. Passing Fullarton House, the seat of the Duke of Portland, six miles from Troon the handsome town of Ayr is reached. Hotel, King's Arms. Ayr is a sea-port town of 18,000 inhabitants. It is divided by the River Ayr into two parts, Wallacetown and Newtown. The river is crossed by the "twa brigs," immortalized by Burns. On the site of the tower where Wallace was confined, a Gothic structure, 115 feet high, was erected in 1835: it is called the " Wallace Tower." In front there is a statue of the hero; at the top are the clock and bells of the old dungeon steeple. Two miles from Ayr is the cottage, divided into two rooms, where the poet Burns was born, Jan. 25th, 1759. About two miles from this we reach "Alloway's aulld haunted kirk," which, having become immortalized by Burns in his "'Tam O'Shanter," as well as being the burial-place of his father and mother, and in the immediate vicinity of the poet's own monument, has become an object of great interest. The modern monuments in the kirk-yard are now very numerous. A short distance to the west is the well where " Mungo's mither hanged hersel'." The monument of Burns was erected in 1820 at a cost of about $17,000. It is surrounded by about an acre of ground, kept in beautiful order by a Mr. Auld, who lives in a pretty cottage between the kirk and "Auld Brig." In a room on the ground floor of the monument are numerous relics of the late poet: one of his portraits, a snuff-box made from the wood of Alloway Kirk, and the Bible which he gave to his Highland Mary. The monument itself is made in imitation of that of LyFicrates at Athens. It is about 60 feet high, surrounded by nine Corinthian columns 30 feet high, supporting a cupola which is surmounted by a gilt tripod. The whole structure is of fine white freestone, and presents a very chaste and classical appearance. The celebrated statues of Tam O'Shanter and Soutar Johnnie, by Thom of Ayr, are placed in a grotto within the grounds belonging to the monument. The scenery is equal, in richness and variety, to any in Scotland; while the interest attached to the banks of the Doon, the spot where Burns composed "Man was made to mourn," the "Braes of Ballochmyle," and the junction of the Ayr with the Lugar, all serve to make this vicinity peculiarly attractive. It is a remarkable circumstance that Burns is the only case on record where the genius of a single man has made the language of his country classical. A few yards from the "auld haunted kirk" is the I"auld brig," which figures so prominently in Tam O'Shanter, and close by a very neat hotel, which is of great service to tourists, and where one would be satisfied to spend weeks. Notice, in the garden between the old and new bridge, the beautiful grotto studded with shells, which serves to heighten the natural beauties of the place. Eleven miles east of Ayr, on the Dumfries and Glasgow Railroad (see Route No. 62) is the town of Mauchline, the scene of the "Holy Fair" and "Jolly Beggars." Posie Nancie's cottage in the town is also pointed out. From Mauchline to MIontgomery is three miles. It was here, amid the woods, the property of W. Patterson, Esq., that Burns wrote his exquisite poem: ' Ye banks and braes and streams around The castle o' Montgomery, Green be your woods and fair yotr flowers, Your waters never drumlie! There simmer first unfauld her robes, And there the langest tarry: For there I took the last filaweel 0' my sweet llighlan' Mary." The present mansion of Coil.sfield was the "Castle o' Montgomery," at that time the residence of Colonel Hugh Montgomery, since Earl of Eglinton. Here Highland 127 MONTGOMERY CASTLE. [SCOTLAND).J AILSA CRAIG. Mary lived in the capacity of dairymaid, and when Burns wrote the above verses he was engaged to be married to her. Previous to that event taking place, Mary determined to pay a visit to her friends in Argyleshire; and on a bright May Sunday morn, each standing on a different side of a small burn, they bathed their hands in the water, and, holding a Bible between them, swore eternal constancy. They were destined never to meet again. Mary, in returning from the visit to her parents, fell sick and died at Greenock, and was buried in the Old Church grave-yard. This was the purest and most fervent love of Burns's life, and its sequence created an immense impression on his mind, and gave rise to some of the most touching verses he ever wrote. On the anniversary of Mary's death he wrote, at Ellisland, the noblest of all his ballads," Mary in Heaven:" " Thou lingering star with lessening ray, That lov'st to greet the early morn, Again thou usherest in the day My Mary from my soul was torn. " O Mary! dear departed shade! Where is thy place of blissful rest? See'st thou thy lover lowly laid? Hear'st thou the groans that rend his breast?" Coilsfield is supposed to derive its name from "Auld King Coil," who was slain in this district by Fergus, one of Scotland's kings. Space will not permit the mentioning of the hundred spots in this neighborhood which Burns's songs have made immortal. His admirers in the United States are innumerable: "We come in one tumultuous tideOne surge of wild emotionAs crowding through the Firth of Clyde Rolls in the Western Ocean. "We love him, not for sweetest song, Though never tone so tender; We love him even in his wrongHis wasteful self-surrender. "We praise him not for gifts divineHis muse was born of womanHis manhood breathes in every lineWas ever heart more human? "We love him, praise him-just for this: In every form and feature, Through wealth and want, through woe and bliss, lIe saw his fellow-creature." 128 A visit should be made to the ruins of Greenan Castle, about half an hour from Ayr. Five miles farther, in the direction of Girvan, stand the ruins of Dunure Castle, the first family seat of the Kennedys, who were ennobled in 1466, and in 1510 attained the dignity of Earls of Cassilis. Colzean Castle, the present mansion of this family, the head of which was created Marquis of Ailsa in 1831, is one of the most imposing structures in Scotland; it is situated on an imposing cliff which overhangs the sea, and presents a magnificent range of castellated masses, covering a large extent, and conveying an idea of strength, dignity, and taste. Immediately underneath the castle are the Coves of Colzean, according to tradition a favorite haunt of fairies, and mentioned in Burns's "Halloween." A few miles south of Colzean stands Turnberry Castle, formerly a residence of the Earls of Carrick, who stood first in the land before the days of the Kennedys. In 1271 Robert Bruce married the widow of the Earl of Carrick, from which union sprung Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, who was born in this castle. The appearance from the sea of Turnberry Castle is most grand and imposing; it is one of the royal palaces of Scotland. It is now the property of the Marquis of Ailsa. Girvan Station, the terminus of the rails way from Glasgow through Ayr, is a towit of 5000 inhabitants. Hotel, King's Arms. There is nothing of importance to be seen in the town. Excursions can be made from here to Ailsa Craig, a distance of ten miles. This huge rock, which rises out of the sea 1103 feet, is two miles in circumference, and is inhabited by but one human family. The summit is crowned by the ruins of a tower. It is the property of the Marquis of Ailsa, who takes from it his title of British peer. BEAULY. [SCOTLAND.] DUNVEGAN CASTLE. ROUTE No. 45. Inverness to Strome Ferry and Skye. By railway to Strome Ferry; thence by steamer to Skye. Starting from the Central Station at Inverness, and crossing the Ness and locks of the Caledonian Canal, two miles from Inverness Clachnaharry, the "Watchman's Seat," is passed. This is a rough rock where watchmen were kept by the town to report the approach of the marauding clans from the Highlands. The road proceeds along the edge of Loch Beauly, passing Bunchrew House, the residence of Duncan Forbes of Culloden in 1745, and crossing Lovat Bridge, whence a fine view may be obtained of Beaufort Castle. Beauly, a fine old village, named after the Priory "de bello loco," the ruins of which are still extant, although founded by John Bisset of Lovat in 1230. It was built for the monks of the order Valliscaulium, in Burgundy. At the Reformation it was given by the monks to Lord Lovat, in whose family it still remains. The chapel, which is the only portion extant, is in the early English style-a most classic and simple order. Dingwall. Hotel, National. This is the Scandinavian name, signifying "Law or Court Hill," and is rarely used by the Gaelic population, who call it Inverpofferan. It is composed of one long street, with an old tower, a jail, free kirk, and law courts. Outside the cemetery stands an obelisk, surrounded by iron bands, fifty-six feet high, erected by an Earl of Cromarty over his grave, that his wife might not be able to carry out her affectionate threat of dancing on it! Five miles from Dingwall is Strathpeffer, a quiet watering-place. Hotels, Old Spa and Strathpefer. The town, which belongs to the Duchess of Sutherland, is situated in a pleasant valley, and the waters contain considerable sulphureted hydrogen gas, also saline ingredients, which give them a high repute. Excursions are often made from this point to Ben Wyvis, 3415 feet high, distance ten miles. To the Falls of Rogie, distant about five miles, is a pleasant drive. The fall is formed by the river which issues from Loch Garve. Quitting the valley of Peffery, and enVOL. I.-F 2 tering into a beautifully wooded district, the property of Sir Robert Mackenzie, the road passes along Loch Garve to Garve Station, a small hamlet, thence past Kinloch Luichart, the seat of Lady Ashburton, Passing Auchenault and Auchnasheen (from the latter place coaches start daily in summer to Loch Maree and Gairloch), the road continues through fine green pastures and wild heath up to Loch Carron, then to Jeantown, where there is a very good hotel, from whence excursions can be made to Shieldaig and Loch Torridon. The railway now continues along the banks of Loch Carron to Strome Ferry. Good hotel. Steamers daily to Portree, the capital of Skye, in three hours. This is the principal place in the Island of Skye, although only containing about 600 inhabitants. Hotels, Portree and Royal. The steamer from Oban to Stornoway touches here twice a week. There are numerous fine excursions on the island. The principal is that to Dunvegan Castle, a distance of twentytwo miles. This is the seat of MacLeod of MacLeod, the chief of the clan, for centuries, and said to be the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland. It is built in a most inaccessible position, surrounded by the sea on three sides, and contains numerous relics of the Middle Ages. Sir Walter Scott was a frequent guest, and here composed his "MacCrimson's Lament." ROUTE No. 46. laverness to Wick and Thurso, via Ding. wall and Ilelmsdale. For description of route to Dingwall, see Route No. 45. Railway to Wick, 7 hours; fare, ~1 3s.= $5 75. Time to Thurso, 6 hrs. 40 min.; fare, ~1 2s. -$5 50. This railway was finished in 1874. Turning to the north at Dingwall, the road passes along the shore of Cromarty Firth, close to Fowlis Castle, the seat of the Munro family, the head of the clan. 129 EVANTON. [SCOTLAND.] - WICK. At Evanton, situated on the Ugly Burn, which flows out of Loch Glass, there is a most interesting cataract, although mostly invisible, the channel being too small for the quantity of water which passes for nearly two miles of its course, plunging through a fissure in the rock nearly two hundred feet deep, creating the most wild and mysterious subterranean sounds imaginable. At the mouth of the stream is Balcony House, built on the foundations of an ancient castle belonging to the Earls of Ross. Eight miles farther Invergorden is reached. Hotel, Commercial. This is quite a flourishing little sea-port. To the west may be seen the ruins of Invergorden Castle, burned down in 1804; to the east, Tarbat Iouse, the residence of the Marchioness of Stafford. Tain. Hotels, Royal and Balnagoown Arms. This town, which contains some 2000 inhabitants, is situated on the southern shore of the Dornoch Firth. It is finely built of yellow freestone, and in the centre stands an old tower surmounted by a spire, with small pointed turrets at each angle. It is connected with the court-house. Near to it are the banks, Masonic Lodge, and Poor-house. A little below the town stands the old chapel of St. Duthus, which dates from the commencement of the 13th century. It was to this sanctuary the wife and daughter of Robert Bruce fled from Kildrumme Castle, and here they were delivered up to Edward I. by the Earl of Ross. Here also came James V. on a pilgrimage in 1527, sent out of the way by Cardinal Beaton, that his majesty might be absent at the burning of Patrick Hamilton, abbot of Fearn, one of the first martyrs of the Reformation. Passing Bonar Bridge Station, so called from a fine bridge which here spans a contracted portion of the Dornoch Firth, Invercarron is reached. It was here that Montrose met his final defeat in 1650, when at the head of King Charles's troops. Lairg Station, about a mile and a half from the village, is situated on Loch Shin, a lake noted for its fine trout. The fishing is good here in every direction. Golspie. Hotel, Sutherland Arms. A pleasant village situated at the northern shore of the Dornoch Firth. It consists of one long street. On the southern shore 130 of the Firth Skelbo Castle maybe seen. This was the former residence of the Sutherland family. About a mile from the hotel is situated the present magnificent residence of the Duke of Sutherland, Dunrobin Castle. The grounds are perfectly charming, and can be seen at all times; the castle only in the absence of the duke's family. The castle was founded by Robert, second Earl of Sutherland, in 1097, whence its name Dunrobin; but the additions and restorations since that time have been many, and it is now one of the most commodious palaces in Scotland. The entrance-hall is very beautiful; it is lined with white polished stone, and hung with banners. The state rooms, especially prepared for her Majesty the Queen, which she occupied in 1872, command a beautiful view of the entire Moray Firth. The Prince and Princess of Wales were guests at Dunrobin Castle in 1866. Passing Bora, prettily situated at the mouth of the Bora River (noted for its fine trout-fishing), which has produced considerable coal since 1872, when a shaft was sunk, we arrive at the modern village of Ielmsdale. Hotel, Ross's. This place possesses a first-rate harbor, and is noted for its herring-fishing. On the west side of the river may be seen the ruins of a castle built by a Countess of Sutherland toward the close of the 15th century. There is a coach road from Helmsdale to Wick by the coast, passing through the villages of Berriedale, Dunbeath, and Lathfron; but since the completion of the railway few pass over the old mail route. Wick. Hotels, Caledonian and Wellington. This town, which contains 8200 inhabitants, is the capital of Caithness, and the general rendezvous of the herring-fishers; over one hundred millions of herrings are caught here annually. The town is situated at the head of a small bay, on the north side of the Wick Water. The herring-fishing commences in July and ends in September, and on a fine summer's morning the view from the shore of over one thousand boats like flies upon a polished mirror is quite delightful. The romance of the herring-fishing is much dissipated on an examination of hundreds of guttingtroughs, or small wooden sheds, which surround the harbor. These are filled with women, who, in a singular costume, cover JOHN O'GROAT'S. [SCOTLAND.] THURSO. ed with blood and scales, gut and clean the fish as fast as they are carried from the boats. In addition to the trade carried on by coasting smacks, steamers from London, Hull, and Aberdeen touch here regularly. There are numerous ruins of old castles in the vicinity which may be visited with interest. Returning to Georgemas Junction, which we passed coming to Wick, we continue on toward the north, and in half an hour arrive at Thurso. [A walking excursion may be made to Thurso by John O'Groat's House, distance thirty-seven miles; eighteen from Wick. Passing through the village of Reiss, seven miles and a half; where there is a picturesque castle belonging to the McLeay family, and Freshwick Castle, the property of the Mowatts, thence to John O'Groat's House is about one mile and a half. This house, of world-wide reputation as the most northerly habitation in Great Britain, might do very well for a picnic party at the present writing (1875), as it consists solely of some grass-covered mounds; but it is really surprising that some canny Scot never thought of keeping the house up-a Yankee would have made a fortune out of its notoriety, as a house of entertainment during the season. There are numerous answers given to the queries who was John O'Groat? and whence the name? Some say he was a poor ferry-man, who for a groat conveyed passengers to the island of Stroma, in Pentland Firth. The groat was a coin, issued in the time of Edward III., of the value of fourpence, and called groat, or great, because previous to that date the English had no larger silver coin than one penny. Other historians say that John was the descendant of a Hollander, De Groot, who several centuries since settled in this vicinity, and that yearly he, with eight of his cousins, celebrated the memory of some ancestor, and that on each occasion quarrels arose as to who should take precedence, until finally John invented a method of settling the difficulty. He constructed a room with nine sides, each containing a door with a banqueting-table to correspond, that all might enter at the same time, and all preside at the head of the table. It must have been a very ex., tensive and expensive establishment, as there must have been nine servants, nine soups, nine fishes, etc., etc.] About one mile and a half to the east is Duncansby Head, the most northerly promontory of Scotland. Passing Barrogill Castle, one of the seats of the Earl of Caithness, and Scarskerry, a village owned by the same earl, the population of which are occupied in manufacturing paving stones, we arrive at Dunnet village, paved with the Caithness flags. Then the village of Murkle to Thurso. Hotel, Royal. This town is finely situated on the banks of the River Thurso. It contains 2500 inhabitants, who are mostly occupied, like those of Scarskerry, in the manufacture of the Caithness paving-stones. It boasts of considerable antiquity, and was formerly the principal trading-port between Scotland and the Scandinavian kingdom. East of the town stands Thurso Castle, the seat of the Sinclair family, and in the same direction, nearer the coast, may be seen Harold's Tower, erected over his tomb. He was at one time owner of the Shetland Islands, Caithness, and one half of the Orkneys. He was killed in 1190, in combat with his namesake, Harold the Wicked. To the northwest are the ruins of Scrabstet Castle, once the residence of the Bishops of Caithness. Invernessto Stornoway. Railway to Dingwall (see Route No. 45). From Dingwall mail-coaches start three times each week to Ullapool, passing the Falls of Strome. From Ullapool to Stornoway, steamer four times per week. ROUTE No. 47. Inverness to Perth, via Blair-Athol, the Pass of Killiecrankie, and Dunkeld. By railway. Time 9 hrs.; fare, ~1 4s.=-6. About four miles from Inverness Culloden Station is passed, about one mile from Culloden Moor, where, on the 16th of April, 131 CULLODEN MOOR. [SCOTLAND]. DUNKELD. 1746, the celebrated battle of Culloden was the Grant family, and Castle Grant, with fought, and the Highland army under its surroundings of magnificent trees, is Prince Charles Stuart was defeated, and worth a visit. with it the hopes of the house of Stuart. Aviemore Station. This is the point Prince Charles had up to this time been where excursionists who wish to cross the successful in every battle he had fought; Grampians to Dee, Braemar, and Balmoral but owing to a combination of unfortunate turn off. The pass should not be attemptcircumstances, the principal of which was ed without a guide. the jealousy of the clan Macdonald, who Eleven miles farther, and Kingussie Staclaimed the right from time immemorial to tion is reached. This is a village of conlead the right wing, the Stuarts and Cam- siderable size and some historical note. It erons were placed there, the consequence was here that the remnant of Prince of which was that the Macdonalds left the Charles's army assembled after its defeat field without striking a blow, leaving their at Culloden, to the number of 8000 men; chief, Macdonald of Keppoch, who had in but the prince, seeing the uselessness of anvain endeavored to make them advance, other battle, bade them farewell, and directdead on the field. ed them to disperse. About a mile distant from the field of After passing Blair-Athol, formerly the battle stand the stones or cairns of Clava, residence of the Dukes of Athol, where the supposed to be the remains of Celtic traveler is first feasted for some time with Druids; and there can be no doubt that at beautiful woods, lakes, and cascades, havone time these fields were an immense ing previously passed a succession of desocemetery. lated moors, we arrive at the Pass of KilSix miles farther, and the favorite water- liecrankie, celebrated not only for its wild ing-place of Nairn is passed. Hotel, Ma- magnificence, but for its historical and milrine. It contains a population of 3800 in- itary fame. The great battle at the Pass of habitants, and is fast improving in beauty. Killiecrankie was fought, in 1689, between It is considered the boundary-line between the troops of William III., under Genthe Highlands and the Lowlands. eral Mackay, and those of James II., unForres. Hotel, Fraser's. This is not a der General Claverhouse, when the Highparticularly interesting town. It consists land troops, composed of the clans Macdonof one long street, and nearly 4000 inhabit- aid, McLean, and Cameron, were signalants. It is mostly known to travelers by ly victorious. Arriving at Dunkeld-printhe "Forres Pillar," which stands a short cipal hotel, Birnam, situated close to the distance outside of the town, and is sup- station-the detention of a day or two posed to have been erected to commemorate here will well repay the visitor, its scenery the expulsion of the Danes during the reign being unequaled in Scotland. Near the of Malcolm II. It is composed of sand- station we see all that remains of Birnam stone, about twenty feet high, and is carved Wood, rendered famous by Shakespeare in with the figures of warriors and animals. his tragedy of Macbeth. We should supOn the site of an old castle (a fortress of pose that the wood had to " high Dunsithe Earl of Moray) stands an obelisk, nane come," as but two relics of the anerected to the memory of Dr. Thomson, cient forest still remain, an oak and a sycawho lost his life by devotion to his patients more, the residue of the wood being of modduring the Crimean War. On Clunie Hill, ern growth. The grounds of the Duke of which is laid out in pleasant walks, stands Athol are very extensive and very lovely, a monument to the memory of Nelson. the walks being fifty miles and the drives Forres is the junction where one line thirty. As it is forbidden to drive over the branches off to Perth, and the other to most interesting portion of the grounds, a Aberdeen. carriage should be engaged to meet you Passing Dava Station, where there are after crossing the river, to drive to the Casthe remains of a castle supposed to have cade, after to Rumbling Bridge, and return been built by Edward I., we arrive at by carriage to your hotel. Travelers are Granttown. Hotel, Grant Arms. A very conducted through the grounds by a guide, pretty and romantic little town, the cot- furnished by the duke, who will be found tageS built of granite. This is the seat of at the lodge. A fee of two shillings and 132 PERTH. [SCOTLAND.] GLAMIS CASTLE. sixpence is expected for a party of one or three; over that, one shilling each. It is said that the number of larch-trees alone cover 11,000 acres, and that the late duke planted twenty-seven million, besides three million of other trees. The modern residence commenced by the late duke still remains unlinished. The principal object of interest is the beautiful ruin of the Cathedral, the foundations of which building date back nearly five hundred years. The antique part of the church, which is the only part in use, dates back to the times of St. Columba and St. Cuthbert. It has been the scene of much barbarous strife, and when the prelate Douglas came to take possession of his seat as bishop in 1513, a shower of shot was rained down upon him from its tower. The principal aisle is 122 feet long by 62 wide. Near the Cathedral are planted the first two larches, now so common in Britain; they were brought from Switzerland in 1737. After a lovely walk along the margin of the majestic Tay, which we cross, we arrive at the Cascade, or Fall, a beautifully romantic spot. About forty feet above the fall there is a neat little summer-house, the sides and ceilings of which are lined with mirrors that reflect the falls in a variety of forms. About a mile farther we come to the Rumbling Bridge, which crosses a chasm eighty feet high, through which the Bran rushes with great fury, so much so that at times the bridge is said to rumb!e or shake, which was the origin of its name. From here the distance is fifteen miles to Perth, a city of 28,250 inhabitants. George is the principal hotel. Perth is beautifully situated on the River Tay, and is a place of considerable antiquity, as well as of great historical importance. It was here that the Pretender was proclaimed king in 1745. Here, in 1336, Edward III. of England stabbed his brother, the Duke of Cornwall. Here also the unfortunate James I. of Scotland fell a victim to his liberal opinions. After reading Sir Walter Scott's " Fair Maid of Perth," one will visit this place with renewed interest. On either side of the city are two beautiful meadows, called the North and South Inches. It was on the North Inch that the celebrated combat between the clan Chattan and the clan Quhele, described by Sir Walter in the "Tales of a Grandfa ther," took place. On the North Inch a beautiful monument has recently been erected to the late Prince Albert. A short distance from Perth are two palaces to which more than ordinary interest is attached. Scone Palace, the seat of the Earl of Mansfield, built on the site of the ancient palaces of the kings of Scotland, and Glamis Castle, the residence of the Earl of Strathmore, and probably the most picturesque of all the Scottish castles still inhabited. According to some authorities, it was here that Macbeth murdered Duncan, and the room is even shown where the event took place. It is very certain that Macbeth lived here and that Duncan was murdered. There is a curious secret chamber in the castle, and, according to tradition, it was the custom of the family that only three persons should know the entrance-the Earl, the heir, and whoever they should take into their confidence. Lady Glamis was executed for witchcraft in 1537, and for conspiring against the life of James V. After her death her innocence became known, and the castle was restored to her son, whose descendant became Earl of Strathmore. Admittance on Fridays. ROUTE No. 48. Perth to Glasgow, via Callander, Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond, and Balloch. Railway from Perth to Callander several times each day in 1 hr. 50 min. From Callander to the Trosachs, 1 hr. 50 min. Steamer of Loch Katrine, 45 min. Coach to Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, 50 min. Steamer to Balloch, on Loch Lomond, 1 hr. 40 min. Rail to Glasgow in 1 hr. 10 min. -in all, 8 hr. 35 min. The excursion can be well made from Perth, Stirling, or Edinburgh in one day. From Perth we take the road to Callander, the terminus of the road, a place of remarkable beauty, and of late years of considerable importance as the terminus 18i CALLANDER. [SCOTLAND.] ELGIN. of the railway, and the starting-point to Lochs Katrine, Vennachar, and Achray. Coaches start three times each day during the season to Loch Katrine. Steamers in correspondence. Do not stop at Callandar. There is a fine hotel on the Lake. To the southwest notice the celebrated Mountain of Ben Lodi, which rises to the height of 2381 feet. A magnificent view is obtained from the bridge which crosses the River Teith within a short distance of your hotel. Coaches leave on the arrival of the train every morning for the Trosachs, a distance of eight and a half miles, passing along the northern border of Loch Vennachar. Two miles from Callander we reach " Coilantogle Ford," rendered historical by Sir Walter Scott. This was the spot to which Roderick Dhu promised to conduct Fiti-James in safety; and, having discharged his obligation of host to that knight, he challenged him to mortal combat: And here his course the chieftain stayed, Threw down his target and his plaid, And to the Lowland warrior said, ' Bold Saxon, to his promise just, Vich-Alpine has discharged his trust. Now man to man, and steel to steel, A chieftain's vengeance thou shalt feel. See here, all vantageless I stand, Armed, like thyself, with single brand; For this is Coilantogle Ford, And thou ulst keep thee with thy sword.'" It is from the lovely Loch Vennachar that Glasgow is in part supplied with pure wa, ter. It is about five miles in length, and contains about 900 square acres of water. Hence to Loch Katrine the glen receives the name of Trosachs, which means bristled territory. This end of Loch Katrine is perhaps one of the most lovely spots in Scotland. Here you take a small steamer, and soon leave the sylvan beauty of the lower end of the lake for the rugged alpine grandeur of the upper. The lake is about nine miles long, and the steamer occupies about one hour in making the passage. Tourists find coaches waiting for them on the arrival of the steamer at Stronachlacher, which convey them over a fine road to Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond. The beauty of this place has been immortalized by Wordsworth in his "Highland Girl:" "The lake, the bay, the waterfall, And thee, the spirit of them all." The praises of the beauty of Loch Lomond are on the lips of every one who has 134 visited what many think the pearl of all the Scottish lakes, exceeding all the others both in variety, extent, and splendor. At every point of view the landscape is particularly picturesque and beautiful. The steamers which take passengers from Inversnaid to Balloch, at the foot of the lake, stop at Tarbet. This, perhaps, is the most lovely spot on the entire lake -charming islands, verdant meadows, soft and sylvan beauty on every hand. Passengers are landed here for Arrochar, at the head of Loch Long, which is separated from Loch Lomond by a narrow neck of land, whence they may be conveyed by steamer to Glasgow, or by coach to Inverary via Glencoe. Nearly opposite Tarbet is a cliff called Rob Roy's Prison, where that noted chieftain formerly kept his prisoners confined until their'ransom was paid. It is said that he let them down from the top of the cliff by a rope, and there kept them until they had made up their minds about their ransom. At the head of the lake stands Balloch Castle, once the stronghold of the Lenox family. The cars start from the town of Balloch for Glasgow on the arrival of the boat. At Tarbet there is a first-class house, Tarbet Hotel, admirably managed by its proprietor, Mr. Macpherson. It has probably the finest situation on the lake, and is most centrally placed for making excursions. ROUTE No. 49. Inverness to Perth, via Elgin, Macduff, and Aberdeen. Time, 8 hrs. 45 min. For description of Nairn and Forres, see Route No. 45. Thirteen miles from Forres the town of Elgin is reached. (There arenumerous fine old ruins passed.) Hotel, Gordon Arms. This is the principal town in Morayshire, and contains 7500 inhabitants. It is finely situated on the banks of the Lossie, and contains the ruins of the most stately ecclesiastical edifice in Scotland. The Elgin Cathedral was founded by the Bishop of Moray in 1223. The building is double-towered, and is in most elegant proportions. It was burned down by I I. - j I I 1, I -~ - _ I _ _ _ _ - — _ _ - 7w CL"'Mccir 9 LAo "LOW Law-y BoyC~n" I MIAP OW Ent~raved Pto llarpep's hand Book 7'e nU Mb-7wo-S wd to the osferet.roulta oorrewpondl withibw/2se, in'7 t/-te la o,nd book,. Am~y Route-,ma be [ian&, by re~aelnee' to -tiazner on, Me ap, Scads of Enyli:th Afile4.. II I 67T is5 0 5 LO i % I I I Afe,'vb-cs. PansI I Jrz & o ~ 6 e y' ',2 rd e 3 tker. B zi i O r ~ y ~ i 7 I ~ ~ W 7r iff /e"')- -- _ _o 970 _____ _____ ___ _ _____ ~ZIl and, ___ - i~i. n edo t-td y t,-,& U e S (A507 alwh/imiej ZabI& id I~J U " Ii; 5zacmClouw acard Spital'e e VOL ___________________ lee' Foe/a ____________ ette w 7] 7k,- ____ Let/mo to 97' -- 7QJLe 7 0 ___ _______________________ FOCHABERS. [SCOTLAND.] ABERDEEN. Alexander Stewart, natural son of Robert II., called the " Wolf of Badenoch," on the occasion of the Feast of St. Botolph. It was again restored, and in 1538 the central steeple built; but thirty years later the council under the Regent Moray ordered it to be stripped of its leaden roof for the purpose of raising funds to carry on the war, and in 1640 the General Assembly ordered the complete demolition of the interior. The Chapter-house is now the part in the best state of preservation. There is a monument in the church to the Duke of Albany, beheaded in 1481. On Lady-hill, a rising ground about a mile west of the town, is a monument to the last Duke of Gordon, who died in 1836. The burial-place of the family is in the south aisle of the old cathedral. An excursion should be made from Elgin to Pluscardine Abbey, a distance of six miles. Another to Fochaberc. Hotels, Richmond and Gordon Arms. This is an appendage to the Castle of Gordon, and is a quiet, pleasant village. At its eastern end there is a fine educational establishment founded by a Mrs. Milne, who made a large fortune in New Orleans. Close to the town is Gordon Castle, the princely seat of the Duke of Richmond. The castle is a large building of 540 feet frontage, four stories in height, situated in a fine park of 1300 acres. It was formerly the seat of the Dukes of Gordon, but their title became extinct in 1836, and it is now the property of the Duke of Richmond. Keith Junction Station. A small town situated on the banks of the Isla: It contains a very pretty Catholic chapel, which holds a painting, used as an altar-piece, representing the incredulity of Thomas. It was presented to the chapel by Charles X., King of France. A road from Keith connects with the main Caledonian line. Banff. Hotel, Fife Arms. A town of considerable importance, finely situated at the mouth of the River Deveron, containing 7500 inhabitants. It contains several public buildings, and Bainf Castle, a moder structure, the residence of the Earl of Seafield, built on the site of an ancient castle in which the kings of Scotland resided when visiting the place. In the immediate vicinity, near Macduff, is DufflHouse, the splendid residence of the Earl of Fife. It contains numerous portraits of members of the family by old masters, such as Vandyke, Velasquez, etc., also by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and others of a more modern school. The park is fourteen miles in circumference, and with the house can be visited on stated days of the week; these days may be ascertained at the hotel. On the road to Portsoy, about five miles from Banff, is situated the ruins of the Castle of Boyne, formerly the seat of the Elphinstones. Turrif, an antique market-town, contains an old church, once the property of the Knights Templars. It was in this village that the first blood was shed in the civil war of Scotland. Passing Auchterless Station, where may be seen Tolly Castle, now a farm-house, formerly the seat of the Barclay family, fyvie Station is reached. Here stands Fyvie Castle, situated on the eastern bank of the River Ythans. It is in an excellent state of preservation, and belongs to the family of Gordon of Fyvie. It dates from the 13th century; but was restored by the Earl of Dunfermline about the beginning of the 17th. Passing Inveramsay Junction, the direct route to Keith and Inverness, we arrive at Aberdeen, which contains a population of 88,125. Hotels, Royal, Douglas, Northern, and Imperial. Its principal manufactures are cotton, flax, wool, and iron. Ship-building is carried on to a considerable extent, and the Aberdeen clippers vie with the Baltimore in their reputation. This is the principal city in the north of Scotland, and ranks next to Edinburgh and Glasgow in general importance. It is finely situated at the mouth of the River Dee, near its confluence with the German Ocean, and is chiefly built of granite, which is the local stone. The harbor not having sufficient capacity for its extensive trade, new and extensive works, including a breakwater, are now in course of erection to obviate that difficulty. The River Dee is spanned by a fine old bridge, built in the early part of the sixteenth century, which was the scene of many struggles during the civil war in Scotland. Aberdeen was granted a charter by William the Lion as early as 1178, 185 ABERDEEN. [SCOTLAND.] BANCHORY. but previous to that time was a place of considerable importance. The principal buildings are the town and county buildings, including a Music-hall: they are in the modern Gothic style, and very handsome. The Trades-Hall is also a fine granite building, containing portraits by Jameson. The East and West Churches are worthy of a visit; between the two there is a tower and transept of an antique church of the 12th century. At the upper end of Castle Street stands the celebrated Cross, a structure erected in the Renaissance style by John Montgomery in 1686: the panels are adorned with medallions of the Scottish monarchs from James I. to James VII., surmounted by a pillar, on which is the royal unicorn rampant, bearing a shield. Union Street is the principal thoroughfare of the city, and contains nearly all the finest buildings; part of it is carried over a ravine by a splendid bridge of dressed granite. The bridge consists of a single arch of 130 feet span and 44 feet broad. The street is ornamented with a statue of the Prince Consort as a fieldmarshal. In Market Street are the Postoffice, public market, Mechanics' Institute, Agricultural Association, etc. In Castle Street, which is a continuation of Union eastward, is the Town Hall, which dates from 1730, on the east end of which is a square tower surmounted by a spire 120 feet high. At the west end of this street is the Athenceum, or public reading-room. Notice a statue of Queen Victoria by Brodie. About a mile north of the present city stands Old Aberdeen, near the mouth of the Don. It is noted for its old cathedral and college. The first was founded in 1396, and dedicated to St. Machar. It consists of a nave flanked by two towers. The choir seems never to have been finished, and nothing remains of the transepts but the foundation, having been crushed by the fall of the central spire, which had been undermined by Cromwell's soldiers. A little south of the cathedral stands King's College, founded in 1494, in the reign of James III., by the Bishop of Aberdeen. It is now united with Mareschal College, the two forming the University of Aberdeen. The chapel and ancient tower 1836 are nearly all that remain of the original college. "Balgownie's Brig," immortalized by Byron in his tenth canto of Don Juan, stands about a mile from Old Aberdeen. It consists of a single Gothic arch, resting on a rock at each side, and said to have been built by King Robert I. (?) Notwithstanding its age, it has withstood all the modern floods which have swept all other bridges away. No. 68 Broad Street, in New Aberdeen, is shown where Byron as a boy lived with his mother. ROUTE No. 50. Aberdeen to Braemar and A vemore or Blair-A thol, via Ballater and Balmoral. The railway is completed as far as Ballater, whence a coach to Braemar in 2 hrs. 30 min. The line follows the banks of the River Dee, which takes its rise in the Grampian Mountains, and for over eighty miles drains the surrounding moors. Ten miles from Aberdeen, Drum Station is passed, near which stands Drum Castle, which dates from the thirteenth century. It is situated on the slope of a hill, and is composed of a massive square tower, the walls of which are twelve feet thick. It has been restored, and is at present occupied by a member of the Irvine family. The Irvines of Drum are of considerable antiquity. Passing Crathes Station, from a mass of sloping woodland the fine old castle of Crathes is visible (the seat of Sir James Horne Burnett), we arrive at Banchory, a picturesque village, situated at the junction of the Feugh with the Dee. Hotel, Burnett A rms. Those fond of trout. fishing should make an excursion up the Feugh River, where trout abound. Four miles farther, and Glassal Station is passed, a little to the north of the Hill of LUMPHANAN. [SCOTLAND.] BALMORAL CASTLE. Fure, where Mary Queen of Scots witnessed the battle of Corrichie in 1562, where Moray and Huntly fought, ending in the defeat of the latter, who was slain, and with whom the power of the house of Gordon departed. Passing Torphin's Station, two miles to the right of which is the village of Kincardine O' Neil-hotel, Gordon A rms-much frequented in summer by invalids for its fine Iracing air, we arrive at Lumphanan, close to which are the remains of an ancient fortification, called the "Peel-bog." It is an earthen mound, about one hundred and twenty feet in diameter and fifteen in height, surrounded by a dike, six feet high and ten thick, made to retain the water from the small brook Lumphanan. A castle is supposed to have stood on the mound. It is thought by some writers that Macbeth made his last stand here, and farther on is Macbeth's Cairn, marking the spot where, according to tradition, he was wounded or slain by Macduff when fleeing from his castle of Dunsinane. Aboyne. Hotel, Huntly Arms. To the right stands the Castle of Huntly, or Aboyne. It is the seat of the Marquis of Huntly. It dates back to the 11th century, but since that date has been several times restored. There is a handsome suspension bridge which crosses the Dee at this spot. Passing Dinnet's Station, on the opposite side of the Dee is Ballatrich, where Byron spent some time when a child. The scenery created a lasting impression on the poet's mind. The cottage where he and his mother lived is still pointed out. The road now passes an obelisk erected to the memory of Farquharson of Monaltrie, then the Pannanich Wells, a hydropathic establishment, and arrives at Ballater. Hotel, InvercauldArms. This town is finely situated in a most healthy position, in the vicinity of numerous mineral wells, whose traditional virtues are as old as the country, and are much resorted to during the summer. The amusements of the place are numerous, salmon and trout fishing (one must pay a trifle for the privilege) and mountain excursions. The principal are to Morven (2880 feet) and Lochnagar, to the top of which is distant twelve miles from Ballater, and which Byron has rendered famous: " Shades of the dead, have I not heard your voices ti-e on the night-rolling breath of the gale? Surely the soul of the hero rejoices, And rides on the wind o'er his own Highland vale. Round Loch na Gar while the stormy mist gathers, Winter presides in his cold icy car: Clouds there encircle the form of my fathers; They dwell in the tempests of dark Loch na Gar." The mountain is 3800 feet above the level of the sea, and if the ascent is made from Ballater, a guide should be taken from the hotel. The ascent is generally made, however, from Braemar. Seven miles farther, on the left bank of the Dee, Abergeldie Castle is passed. This is generally occupied by the Prince of Wales when visiting Scotland. Next we arrive at Balmoral Castle, which is the Scottish summer residence of Queen Victoria, and is rich in deer - stalking, grouse -shooting, the best of fishing, and every kind of Highland game. The property, most of which was formerly the possession of the Earl of Fife, consists of 40,000 acres; 30,000 is a deer forest. It was purchased by the late Prince Albert in 1848, and the present new and beautiful residence was erected near the site of the old castle. Her majesty took up her residence here for the first time in 1849. The interior is not shown, and there is no object in stopping, as there is no public road south of the Dee to Braemar. There is a private bridge across the river at Balmoral. The ascent of Benabourd is a favorite excursion of her majesty, from whence there is a delightful view. Beyond Crathie there is a cairn to commemorate the marriage of the Princess Alice, and another of the Princess Royal. Near the river there is a small mound covered with firs, called Cairn-na-cuimknue. In former times it was the habit of the clan Farquharsons, on the eve of any warlike expedition, for each man to deposit a stone, and on their return to remove them. The stones which remained exhibited the number of the clan which had been slain. Passengers and horses stop for refreshments at Inver Inn. Crossing the bridge at Invercauld, the view from which is very charming, the road winds round the foot of Craig-Cluny, a peak of solid granite, covered with pines and overhanging the road. At some dis137 CASTLETON OF BRAEMAR. [SCOTLAND.] STIRLING. tance up the mountain there are the foundation walls of an old castle called the "Laird of Cluny's Charter Chest," certainly in a most unassailable position. The valley now expands, and Invercauld House, with its beautiful domain, comes in sight, passing which we arrive at Castleton of Braemar. Hotels, Fisher's Invercauld Arms and Fife Arms. This village, which is a straggling collection of houses and cottages, is situated at the junction of the Cluny and Dee, 1200 feet above the level of the sea, consequently the air is of a pure and bracing quality. The place is almost entirely encircled with mountains, but up to their summits clothed in green. The surrounding country is one vast deerforest, owned by the Farquharsons of Invercauld, Lord Skene, Her Majesty the Queen, and the Duke of Athol. The excursions from Braemar are numerous, and the traveler can spend weeks in making them. Braemar Castle can not make much boast as regards its beauty; it was probably built for a barrack to keep the Highlanders in check, and has only been used for that purpose. Coaches leave Braemar daily for the station at Ballater. Every other day for Blairgowrie and Dunkeld, and, unless the traveler wish to make a pedestrian tour, he had better take one of the two routes for the purpose of visiting other scenes. From Braemar to Aviemore, by the Linn of Dee, Wells of Dee, and the Larig Rue Pass. This is a distance of thirty-five miles; and as there are no houses of entertainment on the route, only good walkers should attempt it, carrying their provisions. A guide should also be taken from the hotel. From Braemar to Blair-A thol-Route 50, A-by Bainoch and Glen Tilt.-This portion of the route is twenty-nine miles long. There being a carriage road of ten miles in length, the other nineteen miles must be made by pony or on foot. This was the route taken by Queen Victoria, and described in her " Journal." The roads then, however, were in a better state than at the present time, many of the bridges having been washed away. Carriages may be ordered from Blair-Athol to meet the traveler at Forest Lodge, but the better way would be to take a pony all the way. Price 138 of pony $4, guide $1 25. The carriage road is good up to the River Geldy, afte: crossing which the Earl of Fife's residence (Bainoch Lodge) is passed, and the road becomes a bridle-path through Glen Tilt, a steep and narrow pass, as if the rocks had been split asunder to let the small stream (the Tariff) run through it. Twenty-one miles from Braemar and Forest Lodge is reached. This is the principal hunting-lodge of the Duke of Athol. His forest here covers over one hundred thousand acres, and is said to contain fifteen thousand head of red deer. When the Prince and Princess of Wales were here in 1872, three thousand of them were driven together for their examination. There is a good road from this point to Blair-Athol, passing numerous pretty falls and cascades on the way. Blair-Athol (see Route No. 47). Braemar to Blairgowrie.-Route 50, B. -This is the most direct route back to Edinburgh. Coaches run every day to Blairgowrie-distance thirty-five milesfrom whence there is a branch railway to the Perth and Montrose line. Private carriages may be obtained from the hotel proprietors either at Blairgowrie or at Braemar. The road passes over one of the Grampian ranges, and is a very interesting route, as far as scenery is concerned, but there is nothing special to describe. ROUTE No. 51. Stirling to Perth, via Dollar, Castle Campbell, and Kinross. Stirling is situated thirty-five miles west from Edinburgh. It is a place of great antiquity, and looks much like Edinburgh on a small scale. It contains a fine castle, the former residence of the kings of Scotland, built upon a rocky eminence, the battlements of which command a magnificent prospect. The population of the town is about 13,000. Principal hotels, STIRLING. [SCOTLAND.] STIRLING. Royal and Golden Lion. In point of historical interest the Castle of Stirling is not excelled by any in Great Britain. On account of its inaccessible situation in the centre of the kingdom, it early became a place of great importance, and was for a lengthened period the favorite royal residence. It is of a quadrangular shape, with an open area in the centre. In addition to the other buildings, it includes the old palace built by James V. and the Parliament House. Tile castle is now used as a barrack for the soldiers. One of the most interesting rooms is that called the Douglas Room, in which William, Earl of Douglas, was assassinated byJamesII. Thishaughty noble, having, in conjunction with the Earls of Ross and Crawford, conspired against the king, was invited by that monarch to Stirling, with the king's word of safe-conduct. While in this room, James tried to persuade him to abandon his evil intentions, which Douglas refused to do, when the king, becoming incensed at his stubbornness, stabbed him to the heart; the attendants, entering, threw his body out of the window. In the chapel of the castle Mary was crowned Queen of Scots. Her son, James VI., was also baptized here. From the heights of Stirling no less than twelve battle-fields are in sight, on one of which Bruce secured the independence of Scotland by the great battle of Bannockburn in 1314. William Wallace also achieved a great victory over the English in 1287. Stirling was the birthplace of James II. and V.. and was a favorite residence of James VI., who was crowned in the old church in the town, the famous reformer, John Knox, preaching the coronation sermon. The field of Bannockburn, where Robert de Bruce, with 30,000 soldiers, vanquished the English army of 100,000, is one of the "lions" of the vicinity. The valley between the Grayfriars' Church and the Castle, now used as a cemetery and public garden, was in olden times the tournament ground, and from the " Ladies Rock," where the noble dames of former times witnessed the sports, the best position is now obtained to view the delightful surroundings. The Grampian Mountains are in full view: conspicuous are the peaks of Ben Lomond, Ben Ledi, and Ben Venue, while in the foreground are the Bridge of Allan, and the Forth winding its way through fertile meadows, dark woodlands, and stately dwellings. To the north of the castle is "Heading Hill," the place of public execution, where Duncan, Earl of Lennox, his two sons, and son-in-law, the Duke of Albany, were beheaded in 1424. Underneath the outer wall of the castle there is a narrow precipitous road, which leads from the town, called " Ballangeich," signifying " windy pass." It was by this name that James V. was known in the locality when making his nocturnal visits for business or for pleasure. "An adventure, which had nearly cost James his life, is said to have taken place at the village of Cramond, near Edinburgh, where he had rendered his addresses acceptable to a pretty girl of the lower rank. Four or five persons, whether relations or lovers of his mistress is uncertain, beset the disguised monarch as he returned from his rendezvous. Naturally gallant, and an admirable master of his weapon, the king took post on the high and narrow bridge over the Almond River, and defended himself bravely with his sword. A peasant, who was thrashing in a neighboring barn, came out upon the noise, and, whether moved by compassion or by natural gallantry, took the weaker side, and laid about with his flail so effectually as to disperse the assailants, well thrashed, even according to the letter. He then conducted the king into his barn, where his guest requested a basin and towel, to remove the stains of the broil. This being procured with difficulty, James employed himself in learning what was the summit of his deliverer's earthly wishes, and found that they were bounded by the desire of possessing, in property, the farm of Braehead, upon which he labored as a bondsman. The lands chanced to belong to the Crown, and James directed him to come to the Palace of Holyrood, and inquire for the Gudeman (i. e. farmer) of Ballangeich, a name by which he was known in his excursions, and which answered to II Bondocani of Haroun Alraschid. He presented himself accordingly, and found with due astonishment that he had saved his monarch's life, and that he was to be gratified with a crown charter of the lands of 139 DOLLAR. -SCOTLAND.J KINROSS. Braehead, under the service of presenting an ewer, basin, and towel for the king to wash his hands when he shall happen to pass the bridge of Cramond. In 1822, when George IV. came to Scotland, the descendant of this John Howison of Braehead, who still possesses the estate which was given to his ancestor, appeared at a solemn festival, and offered his majesty water from a silver ewer." A statue of Robert Bruce, by A. Currie, was erected on the esplanade in front of the castle in 1877. Leaving Stirling, we pass the town of Alva, containing 4300 inhabitants, noted for its tartan manufactories. Notice on an eminence to the east of the town Alva House, the residence of Mr. Johnstone. The mansion dates from the reign of Charles II., and the grounds are very beautiful. Passing Tillicoultrie, beautifully situated on the Devon River, also devoted to the manufactory of tartans, we arrive at Dollar. Hotel, Castle Campbell. A very pretty village, whence excursions are made to Castle Campbell, one mile distant. This romantic ruin is situated on the top of a high and almost inaccessible rock, the base of which is surrounded by dark foliage and two rushing streams, one of which is called the " Water of Care," the other the "Burn of Sorrow," while the castle itself, up to 1493, was called the "Castle of Gloom," and the valley "Dolour," now Dollar-a cheerful neighborhood. By an Act of Parliament, procured by the Argyle family, the name was changed to Castle Campbell. In 1556 John Knox resided in the castle, under the protection of the fourth Earl of Argyle, who was the first of the Scottish nobility who embraced the Reformed religion. In 1645, Montrose and the clans in his service destroyed the castle on their way to Kilsyth; and never was an act during the civil war more to be regretted than the destruction of this beautiful castle. It remained in the Argyle family up to 1805, when it was sold. It is now the property of Sir Andrew Orr. A guide should be taken from the hotel to visit the beautiful and romantic chasm, something like the Gorge of Trient in the Rhone Valley. It commences some distance above the castle. Passing over the viaducts of Gairnie and 140 Devon, Rumbling Bridge is reached. This is so called from the noise made by the river, which, after passing through a chasm and rocky channel, creates a roaring or rumbling sound. Near the inn it forms a fall, which is called the "Devil's Mill," because the water, surging from one side to the other, produces a noise like that of a mill in motion. A walk of two miles should be taken to the "Caldron Linn," where the whole body of the Devon precipitates itself through a deep gap, making two falls, the last of which is forty-four feet deep. We now arrive at Kiuross. Hotels, Salutation and Kirkland's. The town is noted for its cutlery, but is mostly visited on account of its contiguity to "Lochleven Castle." Loch Leven is from eight to ten miles in circumference, and is about two miles in width at the western end, narrowing toward the east. On the western side are four small islands, the principal of which is Castle Island. Here are the remains of the old castle where Queen Mary was imprisoned for eleven months, after her surrender at Carbery Hill in 1567, and whence she effected her escape. The keys of the castle, thrown into the lake on the night of her departure, were found by a native of Kinross three centuries later, and were presented by him to the Earl of Morton. Her gaoler was a former mistress of James V., and mother of the Earl of Murray. Within these walls she signed her abdication in favor of her son, appointing Murray regent. She obtained her escape through her powers of fascination; her first subject, George Douglas, son of her gaoler, was discovered and expelled the castle. The second was only a boy of eighteen, Willie Douglas, who, while the family were at prayers on the night of May 2, 1568, secured the keys, placed Mary in a boat, locked the doors behind him, threw the keys into the lake, and conveyed the queen to the mainland, where she was received by Lord Seton, Sir James Hamilton, George Douglas, and others. There is a railway from Kinross to Ladybank Junction, the most direct route to St. Andrews. There is nothing of special importance from Kinross to Perth. bLOCH MENTEITH. [SCOTLAND.] LOCH MENTEITI. ROUTE No. 52. Stirling to Glasgow, via BaJfron and Loch Lomond (with excursion to Loch Menteith and Aberfoyle). Several trains daily. Time, 3 hours. There is little to be seen on this route, unless the traveler happen to be at Stirling, and is going to make the excursion to the head of Loch Lomond, in which case he will take the steamer at Balloch. Or, if going to Loch Menteith to visit " Queen Mary's Bower," or to Aberfoyle, where Bailie Nicol Jarvie went to meet Rob Roy, in both cases he will stop at Port of Menteith Station, the nearest point to the lake. The rivers Clyde and Forth are connected by the Junction Railway, over which we now pass. On the left bank of the Forth are the Gargunnock Hills, where the English forces had their fort to protect them against the attack of Wallace. Thirteen miles from Stirling and Menteith is reached: here carriages can be hired to visit Lake Menteith, four miles distant. Iotel, Loch Alenteith, where boats can be hired to visit the two small islands in the centre of the lake: these are called Inch-Machome, or the "Isle of Rest," and Talla, or "Earl's Isle. The former contains the ruins of the Priory of Inchmachome, where Queen Mary resided during the invasion of the English in 1547, before she went to France. A little garden is shown on the island called " Queen Mary's Bower," which it is said she kept herself. The monastery, the architecture of which is in the Early English style, was erected by the monks of the Augustine order. The only portion which remains is the tower arch, two arches of the nave, and part of the choir. In the chancel are the tomb of the founder, and the recumbent monument of two figures, male and female, supposed from the shield to be Walter Stuart, younger brother of the Steward of Scotland, and his wife, a sister of the Countess of Menteith. The knight is in full armor, with legs crossed, and the arm of the female affectionately wound around his neck. This monument of tenderness seems to have been respected by all ages, as it is the best preserved of all. The island is now the property of the Duke of Montrose. The smaller island of Talla contains the remains of the castle of the Grahams, Earls of Menteith, a race long since extinct. The entire island seems to have been occupied by the castle, as they had their gardens c-n the larger island, and their pleasure-grounds, stables, and domestic offices on the mainland. Notice the magnificent chestnut, oak, and plane trees. Sir Walter Scott, in his 'Tales of a Grandfather," describes the castle: "The Earls of Menteith, you must know, had a castle, situated upon an island in the lake, or loch, as it is called, of the same name. But though this residence, which occupied almost the whole of the islet, upon which its ruins still exist, was a strong and safe place of abode, and adapted accordingly to such perilous times, it had this inconvenience, that the stables and other domestic offices were constructed on the banks of the lake, and were, therefore, in some sort defenseless. "It happened upon a time that there was to be a great entertainment in the castle, and a number of the Grahams were assembled. The occasion, it is said, was a marriage in the family. To prepare for this feast, much provision was got ready, and in particular a great deal of poultry had been collected. While the feast was preparing, an unhappy chance brought Donald of the Hammer to the side of the lake, returning at the head of a band of hungry followers, whom he was conducting homeward to the West Highlands, after some of his usual excursions into Stirlingshire. Seeing so much good victuals ready, and being possessed of an excellent appetite, the Western Highlanders neither asked questions nor waited for an invitation, but devoured all the provisions that had been prepared for the Grahams, and then went on their way rejoicing, through the difficult and dangerous path which leads from the banks of the Lake Menteith through the mountains to the side of Loch Katrine. "The Grahams were filled with the highest indignation. The company who were assembled at the castle of Menteith, headed by the earl himself, hastily took to their boats, and, disembarking on the northern side of the lake, pursued with all speed the marauders and their leader. They came up with Donald's party in the gorge of a pass, near a rock called CraigVad, or the Wolfs Cliff. The battle then 141 ABERFOYLE. [SCOTLAND.] DUNBLANE. began, and was continued with much fury till night. The Earl of Menteith and many of his noble kinsmen fell, while Donald, favored by darkness, escaped with a single attendant. The Grahams obtained, from the cause of the quarrel, the nickname of Gramoch-an-Garrigh, or Grahams of the Hens." Five miles from Loch Menteith is Aberfoyle. Hotel, Bailie Nicol Jarvie. This is the scene of so many incidents in Scott's novel of Rob Roy that lovers of that great novelist will be delighted to visit it. It is romantically situated at the junction of the Forth and Duchray rivers. It was here that Frank Osbaldeston and the bailie went to meet Rob Roy. A short distance farther is Loch Ard, a very beautiful little lake, on which there is a small island, Dundochil, with the ruins of a castle built by the Duke of Albany, uncle to James I. At the northern end the River Ledard falls into the lake, forming two pretty waterfalls. On the eastern side the encounter between Helen Macgregor and the king's troops took place. The distance to Loch Lomond from the eastern end of the lake is six miles; there is only a foot-path to Rowardennan. Returning to Station Menteith, and continuing our route toward Glasgow, Balfron is passed. This town is handsomely situated on the Endrick River, which flows into Loch Lomond. The Glas ow Waterworks are here crossed, which convey the water used in Glasgow from J och Katrine. Drymen, near which is Bucl;anan House, the seat of the Duke of Montrose; then Strathblane, the seat of the earl of the same name; between which and Milngavie is situated the Mugdock Reservoir, which lies 311 feet above the sea level: it contains 200,000,000 gallons of water, which is conveyed into Glasgow by seven pipes. Passing Kilmaronock and Jamestown, Balloch is reached. Hotel, Balloch. Travelers going up Loch Lomond take steamer here, or, if continuing on to Glasgow, change cars. Timeto Glasgow, 50 minutes. ROUTE No. 53. Stirling to Oban, via Dunblane, Callander (the Grave of Rob Roy), and Tyndrun (the Land of Rob Roy). From Stirling to Callander by rail in 45 minutes. Thence to Loch Lomond by coach (see Route No. 48). Steamer to Ardlin, thence by coach to Oban in eight hours. If the traveler has made Route No. 48, then he had better continue by rail from Callander to Tyndrum, and thence by coach to Oban, in six hours. Fare from Tyndrum to Oban, $3 50. Leaving Stirling by the Perth Railway, and passing Abbey Craig, on which stands the monument erected to the hero Wallace, the interesting village of the Bridge of Allan is reached. Hotels, Queen's and Royal. This is a popular watering-place, three miles from Stirling, which derives its name from the River Allan, which flow3 through the village. It is noted for the beauty of its scenery, its salubrious climate, and the mineral springs of Airthrey, the waters of which are collected in cisterns formed in an old copper mine. The grounds and spa are the property of Lord Abercromby, who has erected a handsome well-house, with a billiard-room, readingroom, and bowling-green attached. The waters are chiefly beneficial in skin diseases, stomach complaints, and affections of the liver. In the vicinity of the town stands the seat of Lord Abercromby, A irthrey Castle. Admittance to the grounds every Thursday. Also Keir, the residence of Sir William Stirling Maxwell. The park is very beautiful, and the house contains some fine paintings. Three miles from the Bridge of Allan is Dunblane. Hotel, Dunblane, finely situated on the left bank of the Allan. Here is a magnificent cathedral, founded by King David I. in 1140. The choir is the only part in repair, and is used as the parish church; the architectural beauty of the nave is greatly admired, also the western window. The site of the battle of Sheriffmuir lies two miles northeast of Dunblane. This battle took place in 1715 between the Highland clans under the Earl of Mar and the royal troops under the Duke of Argyle. The battle was indecisive, and is forcibly described in the old song: 142 DOUNE. [SCOTLAND.] ARDLIN. "Some say that we wan, Some say that they wan, And some say that nane wan at a', man; But o' ae thing I'm sure, That at Sheriffmuir A battle there was that I saw, nan; An' we ran, an' they ran, An' they ran, an' we rall, An' we ran, an' they ran awa', man." A large block of whinstone stands on the field, inclosed in an iron grating; it is called the" Gathering Stone of the Clans," and here the Highlanders are said to have sharpened their dirks before the battle. Doune is eight miles from Stirling, and contains a fine castle, which was a favorite resort of Queen Mary and Darnley. This is one of the largest baronial ruins in Scotland; the walls are forty feet in height and ten feet in thickness. From the tower a fine view may be obtained. In 1745 this castle was in the possession of the Pretender Prince Charles, and here he had his prisoners confined that he had taken at Falkirk, among whom was Home, the author of "' Douglas." " The poet had in his own mind a large stock of that romantic 'and enthusiastic spirit of adventure which he has described as animating the youthful hero of his drama. He inspired his companions with his sentiments, and when every attempt at open force was deemed hopeless, they resolved to twist their bedclothes into ropes, and thus to descend. Four persons, with Home himself, reached the ground in safety. But the rope broke with the fifth, who was a tall, lusty man. The sixth was Thomas Barrow, a brave young Englishman, a particular friend of Home's. Determined to take the risk, even in such unfavorable circumstances, Barrow colnmitted himself to the broken rope, slid down on it as far as it could assist him, and then let himself drop. His friends beneath succeeded in breaking his fall. Nevertheless he dislocated his ankle, and had several of his ribs broken. His companions, however, were able to bear him off in safety. The Highlanders next morning sought for their prisoners with great activity. An old gentleman told the author he remembered seeing the commander Stewart, 4 Bloody with spurring, fiery red with haste,' riding furiously through the country in quest of the fugitives."-Waverley (note). Continuing the route from Doune, the road passes the celebrated Braes of Doune, and enters into that locality with which all readers of the " Lady of the Lake " must be thoroughly conversant; in fact, for this route it is the best guide-book extant. We are now near Clan-Alpine's outmost guard, where Roderick Dhu challenged FitzJames to single combat, and over this ground Fitz-James and his followers passed to Stirling, bearing the wounded hero prisoner: 1' They dash'd that rapid torrent through, And up Carhonie's hill they flew; Still at the gallop prick'd the knight, His merry-men follow'd as they might. Along thl banks, swift Teith I they ride, And in the race they mock thy tide; Torry and Lendrick now are past, And Deaustoun lies behind them cast; They rise, the bannel'd towers of l)ouue, They sink in distant woodland soon; Blair-Drummond sees the hoof strike fire, They sweep like breeze through Ochtertyre; Thley mark, just glance, and disappear The lotty brow of ancient Keir; They bathe their counsers' sweltering sides, Daek Forth! amid thy sluggish tides, And on the opposing shore take ground, With plash, with scramble, and with bound. Right-hand they leave thy cliffs, Craig-Forth, And soon the bulwark of the North, Gray Stirling, with her towers and town, Upon their fleet career look'd down.", We now pass Lanrick Castle, then Cambusmore, where Sir Walter Scott resided when a youth, and, crossing the Keltie, are in the land of the Highlanders. Callander, described in Route No. 48. Coach to Loch Katrine; steamer to Stronachlachar, where coaches are waiting to convey passengers to Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, a distance of five miles. Then steamers to Ardlin, where coaches are taken through Glen Falloch to Crianlarich Hotel, where coaches are met from Taymouth and Killin. Or, instead of passing over Lakes Katrine and Lomond, the traveler can continue by rail to Crianlarich in 1 hr. 50 min., visiting the " Braes of Balquhidder," where Rob Roy is buried. After leaving Callander, and proceeding through the romantic Pass of Leny, the road passes along the shore of Loch Lvbnaig, bounded on one side by the steep declivity of Ben Ledi, and on the other by a flat bank, which heightens the effect of the bold front of Craig-na-Coilig at the angular point of the lake. 143 STRATHIRE. [SCOTLAND.] TYNDRUM. Strathire, at the head of the lake, has two small hotels, a place of considerable resort for anglers and pedestrians. Two miles farther is King's House Station, where parties wishing to visit the grave of Rob Roy can make arrangements with the railway guard. Two miles up the valley, in a church-yard near an old roofless, ivy-covered church, are the graves of Rob Roy Macgregor, Helen Macgregor, and their eldest son, Colin. Some say that the slab on the left is the grave of Hamish, another son, and that Helen is not buried here. On one of the tombs (they all lie together) the pine-tree is torn up by the roots, and there is a sword piercing a crown. On another there is a cross, a man, and a dog. The burial-place of most of the great men of the clan Macgregor is the island of Inch-Cailliach, on Loch Lomond. From Crianlarich to Dalmally by coach. Time, 2 hrs. 30 min. This handsome village is finely situated a short distance from Loch Awe, at the entrance to Glen Orchy, at the junction of the roads from Inverary, Tyndrum, and the head of Loch Lomond. The road from Dalmally now crosses the Orchy, then the portion of Glen Strae which is the head-quarters of the clan Macgregor, and winding around the base of Ben Cruachan, arrives at Taynuilt, where there is a very fair hotel, and a good centre from which to make excursions, the principal of which, the ascent of Ben Cruachan, which not only from its height (3670 feet), but its position in the centre of so many objects of historical and scenic interest, makes it one of the finest excursions in Scotland. From its granite summit may be seen the lovely harbor of Oban, with the islands of Skye and Jura, and the mountains of Mull, while Ben Nevis, Ben Lomond, Ben Lawers, the Lochs of Awe, Etive, and Fyne, with numerous smaller sheets of water, make up a view scarcely equaled and never excelled. The road now runs along the banks of Loch Etive, passes Connel's Ferry, the castles of Dunstaffnage and Dunolly, and in one hour and forty minutes we arrive at Oban. For description, see Route No. 39. ROUTE No. 54. Loch Lomond to Glencoe and Fort William, via Ardlin, Tyndrum, Inveroran, and Kin.'s House. This route may be made from Edinburgh or Glasgow in the following manner: From Edinburgh by rail, via Stirling, Callander, Killin Station, to Tyndrum-time, 4 hrs. 40 min.; thence by coach via Inveroran and Glencoe to Ballachulish, in 5 hrs. 30 min., and to Fort William in 7 hrs. Or, leaving Glasgow at 7.40 A.M. for Balloch; thence by steamer to Ardlin, on Loch Lomond. Coach to Tyndrum in 2 hrs.; thence to Fort William in 7 hrs. Fare, by coach from Tyndrum to Ballachulish, $4; to Fort William, $4 75. Ardlin and Crianlarich are described in Route No. 53. About half the distance between Crianlarich and Tyndrum is situated the Holy Pool (f St. Fillan's, where the remains of a priory are situated. Here a ceremony used to be performed for the cure of insane persons: the victims were ducked in a pool after sunset, then bound with ropes in a mystic knot, and laid down all night on the site of the old church of St. Fillan. If the ropes were unfastened in the morning, the patient was supposed to have recovered. They were generally found free -that is, dead. This mode of treatment lasted up to the close of the last century. Crossing the River Dochart, near which is " King's Field," where Bruce, after having been defeated by Lord Pembroke at Methen, was attacked by Lord Lorn, grandson of Red Comyn, whom Bruce had killed at Dumfrics. Three of Lorn's followers made a combined attack upon Bruce, and were all slain by that accomplished swordsman. In his death-struggle one of the assailants clutched the mantle of Bruce, who was compelled to leave it in his hands; and the brooch by which it was fastened is still preserved as a trophy in Dunolly Castle by the descendants of the Lord of Lorn. At Tyndrum, where there is a very fair hotel, the coaches to Oban via Dalmally turn to the left, and cars continue on northward. The lead mines in the vicinity are the property of the Earl of Breadalbane, and are extensively worked. Passing ths village of A uch, where there 144 INVERORAN. [SCOTLAND.] FALLS OF THE LEDNOCH. is a road through Glen Lyon to Taymouth, we arrive at the Bridge of Urchay, near which, on the right, are the remains of Auchallader Castle on Loch Tulla, also a shooting-lodge (A rdvrecknish) of the Marquis of Breadalbane. Inveroran is now reached, where there is a small hotel, and where the privilege of good fishing may be secured. The coaches now make a long ascent through the dreary Deer Forest of Blackmount, the property of the Marquis of Breadalbane, but rented by the Earl of Dudley for $25,000 per annum. Passing King's [louse and A Itnafedh, the valley of Glencoe is entered. For description, see Route No. 41. ROUTE No. 55. Dunkeld to Criegf, via Aberfeldy, Taymouth, Killin, Lochearnhead, and Comrie. Or reversing this route, in case the traveler should be at Edinburgh or Glasgowviz., making a two days' trip at a cost of $8 50, including coachmen's fees. Leaving Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M. during the season (it would be well to inquire at the Caledonian Railway-office, as the hour may be changed), arriving at Crieff at 10.25. Leave Crieff by coach at 10.35, arriving at Lochearnhead Station at 3 P.M. Leave at 6.48 by rail, and arrive at Killin Station Hotel at 8 P.M. Next day leave Killin by coach at 1.10 P.M.; arrive at Aberfeldy at 5 P.M. By rail to Edinburgh, arriving at 9.55. Excursion tickets give the traveler the privilege of breaking the journey at any point he pleases. Crieff: Hotels, Drummond Arms, Stewart's, and Royal. This town is known for its fresh and invigorating air, and is consequently in high repute among tourists,who make it a head-quarters for their numerous excursions; and, being situated in a most central position in regard to numerous castles and mansions of the nobility, it is much frequented during the season. There are Vo,. I.-G numerous mineral wells in the vicinity, which have acquired considerable celebrity. There is also a large hydropathic establishment situated on Knock Hill, a short distance from the town, from whence there is a magnificent view. Notice near the Town Hall an antique cross, also the iron pillory. A fine excursion can be made to Tomachastle, a hill situated on the banks of the Earn, about three miles from the town. On the summit of the hill there is a granite monument to Sir David Baird. The hill is approached by a lovely walk along the banks of the river, called "Lady Mary's Green Walk." The most interesting excursion, however, is that to Drummond Castle, now the property of Lady Willoughby d'Eresby, the original seat of the noble family of Drummond, Earls of Perth. The entrance of the avenue is two miles from Crieff, but the magnificent avenue of beech - trees which conducts to the castle is over one mile long. In front of the castle lies a terraced flower-garden, which is one of the most elegant in the United Kingdom. Three miles from Crieff, on the Amulree road, is Mon.ie Castle, surrounded by some fine old trees, some of which are nearly twenty feet in circumference. Leaving Crieff for Comrie, which is six miles distant, the River Turrett is crossed, at the mouth of which, on the north bank of the River Earn, at the junction of Glen Lednoch and Glen Artney-and by some supposed to be the site of the famous battle between the Caledonian prince Galgacus and the Roman general Agricolaclose to the village, stands Comrie House, the seat of Sir D. Dundas; and on Dunmore Hill, close by, there is a monument seventy-two feet high erected to the memory of the late Lord Melville. Beneath it is a small stream called " Humble Bumble." Farther down are the Falls of the Lednoch, the waters of which form the "Devil's Caldron." On the opposite bank of the River Earn lie Aberuchil Castle and the handsome modern residence of Sir David Dundas. Higher up the river is the Hill of Dun Fillan: it is here that St. Fillan, the patron saint of Robert Bruce, has left the mark of his knees in the solid stone. One hour and thirty minutes from Coms5 ST. FILLANS. [SCOTLAND.] KENMORE. rie we arrive at St. Fillaas. Hotel, Drummond Arms. This is one of the most lovely retreats in Scotland. It is beautifully located on the eastern shore of Loch Earn. The fishing is good, excursions numerous, and excellent boating on the lake. From St. Fillans to Lochearnhead Hotel, 1 hr. 20 min. Lochearnhead. Hotel, Dayton's. Loch Earn is about seven miles long, and of such great depth that it has never been known to freeze. At the eastern end is a small islet covered with wood and mounds of stones, said to be the remains of a strong. hold belonging to a desperate clan of banditti-the Neishes-who were continually committing depredations on the neighboring clans, especially that of the Macnabs. The chief of the clan Macnab having sent his servants into the Lowlands for provisions, they were waylaid by the Neishes on their return, and the booty carried off to the island, which so irritated the Macnab that he sent a party of the clan, headed by his son, with instructions to exterminate them; the party landed on the island in the dead of night, surprised the outlaws, and put them all to the sword, returning the same night with one of the robber's heads, and in commemoration of this event assumed for their crest a bloody head with the motto "Dreadnought." This clan at one time were owners of all the country around, now absorbed by the Breadalbanes. They emigrated to British America, an^many of our readers may remember that during the invasion of Canada it was the head of this clan who sent the steamer Caroline over the Falls of Niagara. From Lochearnhead Station to Killin Station by rail in twenty minutes. Omnibus to Killin Hotel, and the Bridge of Lochy Hotel. This pretty village is situated on the banks of the rushing Dochart, which here encircles two islands, one of which, covered with beautiful ancient pine-trees, is still the cemetery of the Macnabs. About one and a half miles from Killin stands Finlarig Castle, the ancient seat of the Breadalbane family, now entirely overgrown with ivy and surrounded by majestic and venerable trees. The familyoburial vault adjoins the ruin: it is consequently called the cradle and the grave of that ancient house, whose property now extends 146 over the space of one hundred miles, from Aberfeldy to the Atlantic Ocean. From Killin to Lawers Inn, or Ben Lawers, on Loch Tay, is eight miles. The lake is fifteen miles long and one and a half wide, and Ben-Lawers, standing near its margin, is one of the highest mountains in Scotland, being 3984 feet above the level of the sea,.and most rich in its botanical products. The ascent can be most conveniently made from Lawers Inn, occupying about two hours. There is a ferry across the lake at this point. Seven miles from Lawers we pass the lodge and kitchen-garden of Taymouth Castle, and near the shore there is a small island in the lake, where are the scant remains of a celebrated priory erected by Alexander I. of Scotland over the remains of his wife Sybilla, daughter of Henry I. of England. The nuns were in the habit of going in procession to the parish church on the anniversary of her death, and this event in time became a fair-day, which is still kept in Kenmore, and called "Feill nam ban naomdh," or the Market of the Holy Women. Kenmore. Hotel, Breadalbane Arms. This is a small collection of houses clustered around the principal entrance to Taymouth Castle, the princely mansion of the Marquis of Breadalbane, a descendant of one of the most ancient houses in Scotland, and one of the richest and most extensive landed proprietors in the United Kingdom. The castle, which is not shown at the present time, is constructed of slate stone, four stories in height, with round corner towers, surmounted by a central pavilion, with two wings projecting from the main building. The entrance-hall and staircase are very beautiful. The original castle was erected by Sir Colin Campbell in 1580, and was formerly called Balloch; the present castle was erected in 1801, and the west wing added in 1842. The picture-gallery contains some of the best historical portraits and pictures in Scotland; but the great charms of the castle are its pleasure-grounds and surrounding scenery, where every thing is combined to create beauty, grandeur, and freshness. Admission to the grounds from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4-fee, one shilling each person. It is customary to give one shilling to the dairymaid. The time oc ABERFELDY. [SCOTLAND.] KILCHURN CASTLE. cupied is nearly one and a half hours. If traveling with a private carriage, it had better be sent forward to the Museum and Fort to meet you. From this point the best view of the castle and grounds may be had, and it was here that Queen Victoria descended from her carriage to obtain a last glimpse of the enchanting landscapes which sle alludes to in her journal, " Leaves from the Journal of Our Life in the Highlands:" "We got out and looked from this height down upon the house below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us every thing; and then unknown, quite in private, I gazed-not without deep emotion —on the scene of our reception twenty years ago by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be equaled in grandeur and poetic effect. " Albert and I were then only twentythree, young and happy: how many are gone that were with us." Six miles from Kenmore and we arrive at Aberfldy. Hotel, Breadalbane Arms. This village is situated at the junction of the Tay and Moness, the former of which is crossed by one of General Wade's bridges, near which is Mfoness House and the Falls of Aberfeldy, or Moness, described by Burs: "The braes ascend, like lofty wa's, The foamy stream deep roarilg fit's, O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws, The birks of Abe feldy. The hoary cliffs are crownl'd wi' flow-rs, White o'er the litn the burnie pours, And rising, w( ets wi' misty showers The Birks of Aberfe dy." The highest fall is about fifty feet, and is two miles up the glen; the others are merely a series of cascades. A fee of one shilling and sixpence is necessary to open the gate to view them. Aberfeldy to Dunkeld by rail, one hour. For description of Dunkeld, see Route No. 47. To Edinburgh from Dunkeld by rail, 3 hrs. 40 min. ROUTE No. 56. Inverary to Oban by Loch Awe. IRverary is described in Route No. 42. Should the traveler be at Glasgow, and wish to make this tour, he can leave there at 10 A.M., arriving at Lochgoilhead at 1 P.M. Railway to Greenoch, steamer to Lochgoilhead, thence by coach to St. Catharine's in two hours, and cross Loch Fyne to Inverary in twenty minutes, arriving at 3.30 P.M. Taking the coach at 9 A.M. the following day, via Cladich Pier, Dalmally, and Tyndrum, he will arrive at Oban at 7 P.M. Passing up the valley of Glen Aray, which is splendidly wooded with the finest specimens of trees in Scotland, numerous waterfalls are met on the Aray, which we follow up the glen until we reach its summit, when Loch Awe in all its beauty bursts upon the view, surrounded by bleak and rugged mountains, the highest of which is Ben Cruachan, which rises to a height of 3400 feet above the level of the sea. Descending toward Cladich, where there is a very fair hotel, a favorite spot for sportsmen-trout, wild duck, and woodcock are to be found in abundance. Boats may be had to visit numerous places of interest in the vicinity, the principal of which are Inishail, Inish Chonel, Blairgour, A rdhonnel Castle, and the Pass of Awe. On Innis Fraoch are the ruins of an ancient castle of the MacNaughtons. Another favorite spot for sportsmen is Port Sonachan, about three miles from Cladich.:Following the eastern bank of Loch Awe, the coach stops for a short time near a monument erected to Duncan Ban Maclntyre, a Gaelic poet. We now pass Kilchurn Castle, situated in a meadow near the lake-it appears as if built upon an island-a wild and stately ruin, founded in 1440 by Sir Duncan Campbell, a descendant of Sir Colin Campbell, who founded the family in the 12th century. Sir Duncan's grandson married the heiress of the Lords of Lorn, and from them took the title. The Duke of Argyle and the Marquis of Breadalbane are descended from this Sir Duncan, founder of the castle. Most of this locality was at one time the property of the Macgregor clan, until swallowed up by the stronger clan of the Campbells. 147 TOBERMORY. [SCOTLAND.] ISLAND OF SKYE, Dalmally. For description of this place, and the rest of the route to Oban, see Route No. 53. ROUTE No. 57. Glasgow to the Island of Skye and Stornoway (on the Island of Lewis). The swift steamers of Mr. D. MacBrayne's fleet will transport the travelers to Oban as described in Route No. 39; leaving Glasgow or Greenock on Mondays and Thursdays. At Oban slower steamers, carrying goods and passengers, leave twice a week for Stornoway, passing through the Sound of Mull, and calling at Tobermory, Craignure, Loch A line, Salen, A risaig, A rmadale (Isle of Skye), Gleneig, Balmaccarra, Kyleakin, Broadford, and Portree. From Glasgow to Stornoway; fare, ~1 12s.-=$8. Return tickets, ~2 8s.=$12. Glasgow to Kyleakin (Island of Skye); fare, ~1 7s. =$6 75. Glasgow to Portree (Island of Skye); fare, ~1 10s.= $7 50. Return tickets, $11 05. Leaving Oban Tuesday morning, about 6 P.M., on Friday morning at 7 A.M., and proceeding through the Sound of Mull, the steamer stops at Tobermory, on the Island of Mull. Hotel, Mull. This is the only village on the island, and contains some 1500 inhabitants. The name of the place signifies " St. Mary's Well." It is situated in a well-protected bay. The place was founded in 1788 by the British Fishing Company. Close to the village is Drumfin Castle, one of the ancient possessions of the Laird of Col. There is very good fishing in the vicinity of the hotelpermission must be obtained. Arisaig. See Route No. 43. Passing on our left the small island of Muck, on which there is nothing of interest, the steamer generally stops off the island ofEigg, of most remarkable geological construction. Near its centre there is a most singular mountain, the top of which overlies a forest of petrified trees, in form of construction like Fingal's Cave, on the Giant's Causeway. Geologists say that an extensive pine forest once existed in some nameless land, had been swept to sea, entombed in the bottom of the ocean, had been 148 heaved to the surface by volcanic agencies, and had been finally built upon by Nature's Architect. One of the sights of the island is the cave of "Uamh Fhraing," where all the inhabitants were suffocated by the clan MacLeod. It seems that some young men of the clan MacLeod landed at the island of Eigg, where they. were hospitably received by the Macdonalds, but having taken too much freedom with the young women, or offered them some insult, they were bound hand and foot and cast adrift in an open boat; fortunately the winds and waves landed them at Skye, and the Laird MacLeod made a descent at Eigg with a large body of his clan to avenge the insult. The inhabitants concealed themselves in this cave, and could not be found; the MacLeod had embarked on board his boats, after doing what damage he could, when suddenly a man was espied on the shore; the force again landed, and tracked the footsteps of the man to the mouth of the cave, which they surrounded, summoning the inhabitants to surrender and deliver up the authors of the insult. This they refused; the MacLeod then, stopping up all outlets to the cave, built an immense fire of fern and turf at its mouth, which was maintained until the entire population was suffocated. The steamer now approaches the shores of Skye,which present a beautiful appearance, the Cuchullin Hills and Blaven filling up the background, stopping at A rmadale, on the Sound of Sleat, near which is the Castle of Armadale, the seat of Lord Macdonald, the largest landholder in Skye, and the head of the clan. The castle is situated on a slope rising up from the shore, in a very fine position. Napoleon's marshal Macdonald, although born in France, was a descendant of this clan; he was made General of Division at the age of thirty, was created Marshal at the battle of Wagram, with the title of Duc de Tarntre, and died in 1831, Grand Chancellor of the Legion of Honor. The steamer next touches at the village of Glenelg, on the mainland: the surrounding bay is very fine, abounding in grand and picturesque scenery on both sides. At Glenelg notice the ruins of a barrack built by the English government to maintain order among the clans. Passing through e a3 KYLEAKIN. [SCOTLAND.] FALKIRK. Kyle Rhea Ferry, which is the narrowest part of the Sound of Sleat, the steamer again stops at Balmaccarra, where there is a very good hotel. Near which is Balmaccarra House, the shooting-lodge of Mr. A. Matheson. Good fishing in the neighborhood. Kyleakin-hotel, Kingq's Arms-on the island of Skye, opposite Balmaccarra, is the principal place for tourists who wish to visit the interior of the island, especially Spar Cave, Loch Conuisk, and Glen Sligachan. All of those places, however, should now he visited from Loch Scavaig (see Route No. 71). Mr. David MacBrayne is now sending a weekly steamer from Oban to make that delightful excursion. About eight miles from Kyleakin the village of Broadford is reached. Hotel, John Ross, where horses and carriages are kept to make excursions into the interior. The ascent of Blaven is often made from here. This is the highest mountain in Skye. It was at a farm-house in this town that Johnson and Boswell were so well entertained by Mackinnon that the latter was found drunk in bed next day at one o'clock by Johnson. Portree is described in Route No. 45. Steamers sail semi-monthly to Stornoway, touching at Gairloch and Aultbea; also semi - monthly, touching at Tarbet (Harris) and Loch Maddy in Uist. They leave daily through the season at 9 A. M. for Strome Ferry (see Route No. 45), calling at Raasay, Broadford, and Plocton in time for trains to the south. For Gairloch every Thursday and Friday, thence by coach to Auchnasheen, and railway to Inverness. For Stornoway every Wednesday at about 5 P.M., reaching that town at 11 P.M.-6 hours. Stornoway is situated on the east side of the island of Lewis, and is the capital of the Western Hebrides. Hotel, Lewis. The place was originally founded by James VI., but up to 1844 it was rather a benighted land. In that year Sir James Matheson purchased the island from the Mackenzies, since which time he has spent over one million of dollars in improving his estate and in ameliorating the inhabitants' condition: their houses are better built, they are better clothed, and education is accomplishing what it must in every country. Sir James has also built a fine house-Stornoway Castle-and resides among his tenants. The town is supplied with both water and gas, and every precaution taken to meet the long and dreary winter nights. The lower end of the island is called Halrris. It was lately sold by Lord Dunmore for $775,000. It is principally covered with heather and stones. In the vicinity of Tarbet, where there is a hotel, the fishing is very good. ROUTE No. 58. Glasgow to Edinburgh, via Falkirk and Linlithgow. Time, 2 hrs. 10 min. Fare, $1 37I. Leaving Glasgow, the train passes up an incline and through a tunnel over 4000 feet in length to CowlMirs, thence to Campsie Junction, where a road, five and a half miles, leads to Lennoxtown. Five miles from Campsie, and Croy Station is reached. This is two miles from Kilsyth, a town of 6000 inhabitants, noted as the scene of a victory gained by Montrose over the Covenanters, 6000 of whom he put to the sword. Passing Castlecary Station and Glenfield Junction, we arrive at Falkirk, formerly called Eglishbreckk, or "the speckled church," in allusion to a church erected in the reign of Malcolm III., 1057. Hotel, Red Lion. It contains a population of 9547. The town consists of one long street, and has lately acquired a new importance on account of its iron-works and collieries. Its old church was demolished about fifty years ago. The present church has a very handsome spire about 130 feet high. Falkirk has been the scene of two rather decisive battles. In 1298 Edward I. defeated Sir William Wallace, and in 1746 the Pretender Prince Charles Stuart defeated General Hawley. In the church-yard are the graves of two Scottish heroes- Sir John Stewart of Bonhill, and Sir John Graham, the friend of Wallace, who were killed at the battle of Falkirk, 1298, fighting against Edward I. Near Falkirk are the celebrated Carron Iron - works, among the largest in the world. The next station is Polmont Junction, 149 LINLITHGOW. [SCOTLAND.] LINLITHGOW. where the direct line from Edinburgh to Stirling joins the line from Glasgow. Four miles farther and Linlithgow is reached. Principal hotel, Star and Garter. Population 3750. Linlithgow stands on a beautiful lake seventeen miles from Edinburgh. The chief object of interest here is the palace, part of which was first built by Edward I., who passed a winter here. " Of all the prl.lices so fair Built for the royal dwelling, In Scotland, far b, yod compare Linlithgow is excelling. Anld in its park in genial June How sweet the merry linnet's tune." It was taken and destroyed by Bruce in 1307, but was rebuilt during the minority of David II. It is a very picturesque ruin; the western part is the most ancient, and contains the room where Queen Mary was born. Her father, James V., was dying at Falkland at the time, said to be of a broken heart on account of his disaster at Solway Moss. On being told of her birth, he replied, " Is it so?" and, thinking of the alliance that had placed a Stuart on the throne-" Then God's will be done. It came with a lass, and it will go with a lass;" and, turning his face to the wall, died. One side of the square is occupied by the chapel. Notice the ruins of the fountain in the centre of the quadrangle. The palace was still in a fair state of preservation until 1746, when it was occupied by General Hawley's troops the night after their defeat at Falkirk. On leaving, they set fire to it. Sir Walter Scott, in his "'tales of a Grandfather,' describes how the castle was taken from the English: "The garrison was supplied with hay by a neighboring rustic, of the name of Binnock or Binning, who favored the interests of Bruce. Binnock had been ordered by the English governor to furnish some cart-loads of hay, of which they were in want. He promised to bring it accordingly; but the night before he drove the hay to the castle he stationed a party of his friends, as well armed as possible, near the entrance, where they could not be seen by the garrison, and gave them. directions that they should come to his assistance as soon as they should hear him cry a signal, which was to be-' Call all, call all!' Then 150 he loaded a great wagon with hay; but in the wagon he placed eight strong men, well armed, lying flat on their breasts, and covered over with hay, so that they could not be seen. He himself walked carelessly beside the wagon; and he chose the stoutest and bravest of his servants to be the driver, who carried at his belt a strong axe or hatchet. In this way Binnock approached the castle early in the morning; and the watchman,who only saw two men, Binnock being one of them, with a cart of hay, which they expected, opened the gates and raised up the portcullis, to permit them to enter the castle. But as soon as the cart had gotten under the gateway, Binnock made a sign to his servant, who with his axe suddenly cut asunder the soam, that is, the yoke which fastens the horses to the cart; and the horses, finding themselves free, naturally started forward, the cart remaining behind under the arch of the gate. At the same moment Binnock cried, as loud as he could, 'Call all, call all!' and, drawing the sword which he had under his country habit, he killed the porter. The armed men then jumped up from under the hay where they lay concealed, and rushed on the English guard. The Englishmen tried to shut the gates, hut they could not, because the cart of hay remained in the gateway, and prevented the folding -doors from being closed. The portcullis was also let fall, but the grating was caught on the cart, and so could not drop to the ground. The men who were in ambush near the gate, hearing the cry, 'Call all, call all!' ran to assist those who had leaped out from among the hay; the castle was taken, and all the Englishmen killed or made prisoners. King Robert rewarded Binnock by bestowing on him an estate, which his posterity long afterward enjoyed. The Binnings of Wallyford, descended from that person, still bear in their coat armorial a wain loaded with hay, with the motto, ' Virtute doloque.' " The church, standing between the palace and the town, was dedicated by David I. to the archangel Michael, whose image may be seen at the southwest angle, and is one of the finest specimens of Gothic architecture to be seen in Scotland. Notice the beautiful flamboyant window ir St. Catharine's Chapel. It was here that the apparition was seen by James IV., OF.) 42 4$, .NEWLISTON. [SCOTLAND.] EDINBURGH. warning him against his expedition to England. Notice in front of the Town Iouse the "Cross Well." The sculpture is very beautiful. Four miles farther the line passes the ruined Castle of Nidry, to which Mary Queen of Scots was conveyed the night after her escape from Lochleven. It was then the property of Lord Seton. Passing Newliston, the former seat of the great Field-Marshal Stair, who it is said planted the trees on his estate to represent the position of the troops at the battle of Dettingen, which he commanded under George II. A remarkable instance of Hirghland chivalry is described by Sir Walter Scott, in his "Tales of a Grandfather," in connection with this no')lenman and his residence, Newliston: " During the rebellion of 1745, the route of the Highland army having brought them near Newliston, an alarm arose in the councils of Prince Charles lest the Macdonalds of Glencoe should seize the opportunity of marking their recollection of the massacre of Glencoe by burning or plundering the house of the descendant of their persecutor; and it was agreed that a guard should be posted to protect the house of Lord Stair. Macdonald of Glencoe heard the resolution, and deemed his honor and that of his clan concerned. He demanded an audience of Charles Edward, and, admitting the propriety of placing a guard on a house so cbnoxious to the feelings of the Highland army, and to those of his own clan in particular, he demanded, as a matter of right rather than of favor, that the protecting guard should be supplied by the Macdonalds of Glencoe. The request of the high-spirited chieftain was granted, and the Macdonalds guarded from the slightest injury the house of the cruel and crafty statesman who had devised and directed the massacre of their Ancestors." A short distance from Newliston is the village of Kirkliston, where there is a fine old Romanesque church, the burial-place of the Earl of Stair. Passing Ratho Junction, where there is a branch railway which leads to Queen's Ferry and Dunfermline, then the village of Corstorphine, we arrive at Edinburgh. Hotel, Royal, near the.Waverley Bridge Station, in Princes Street, ROUTE No. 59. Edinburgh and Excursions in the Vicinity. AIDMISSION TO PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. Abbots.ford-Daily, in summer, from 12 to 6 (closed July 15 to August 25). A ntiquarian Museum - Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, free. Thursday and Friday, Gd. From 10 to 4; and on Saturdays also from 7 to 9 P.M. Botanic Gardens-Daily, from 6 A.M. to 6 P.M. On Saturdays till 8 P.M. Free. Burns's Monument, with Bust and Relics of the Poet-Daily, from 10 to 7; Winter, 10 to 4, 2d. Castle-Queen Mary's Room-Daily, from 12 to 3, free, Cox's Royal Gymnasium-Daily, from 10 A.M. till dusk, 6d. Dtdkeith Palace and Gardens-Wednesday and Saturday, when family are absent. Dirleton Gardens-Thursday. Donal lson's Hospital - Tuesday and Friday, from 2.30 to 4. Order from Treasurer, 61 Castle Street, or Clerk, 1 N. Charlotte Street-free. Drylbrgh Abbey-Daily, party of three, Is. Forrest's Statuary, adjoining Gymnasium-Daily, from 10 A.M. till dusk, 6d. Hawthornden-Dailv, Is. lIeriot's Hospital-Daily, except Saturday, from 12 to 3. By ticket, given free at 7 Royal Exchange. Holyrood-Daily, from 11 to 6 (4 P.M. in winter), Gd. Saturdays free. John Knox's Iouse — Wednesday and Saturday, 10 to 4, 6d. Museum of Science and Art-Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, from 10 to 4, 6d. Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, from 10 to 4, free. Friday and Saturday, from 6 to 9, free. National Gallery-Open daily from 10 to 5, free. On Thursdays and Fridays, from 10 to 4, Gd. Saturday evening, 7 to 9, free. Nelson's Monument, from the top of which there is a magnificent view-Daily, 8 A.M. till dusk, 3d. Newbattle Abbey-Daily. Parliament House and Advocate's Library -Open during the sitting of the Courts, free. 151 EDINBURGH, [SCOTLAND.] EDINBURGH. Phrenological Museum —On Saturdays, from 1 to 6, free. Regalia-Daily, from 12 to 3, free. Royal Winter Gardens, West Coates, Haymarket-Daily, 10 to 6, free. Roslin Chapel-Daily, is. Scott Monument-Admission to the Galleries-Daily, 2d. Statue Gallery-Wednesday and Friday, from 12 to 4, 6d. Saturdays, 10 to 4, free. Surgeons' Museum-Daily, except Tuesday, from 12 to 4; and in winter, 12 to 3 P.M., free. CAB FARES. By Distance-Not exceeding a mile aid a quarter, Is. For every additional halfmile, or part thereof, 6d. Half-fare returning. By Time-First hour, 3s., and every additional 20 minutes, or part thereof, Is. The driver must average 6 miles per hour. From midnight to 7 A.M., double fare. The Post-office and Telegraph-office are at the east end of Princes Street. The Caledonian Railway Station is at the east end of Princes Street, and the North British at Waverley Bridge. The principal shops are in Princes Street and George Street. Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is situated on two ridges of hills within two miles of the Firth of Forth, and contains 200,000 inhabitants; and with its port or suburb, Leith, 240,777. The population just one hundred years ago (1775), including Leith, was only 57,195. The principal hotel, and one of the most popular in Scotland, is the Royal, beautifully situated on Princes Street, opposite the Walter Scott monument; Donald Macgregor, proprietor. The best cuisine and best service in the city. Edinburgh, for its size, is one of the most imposing, interesting, and magnificent cities in Europe. Through its centre a deep, wild, and rocky ravine extends, dividing the city into the old and new town. This ravine, which was once the great deformity of the city, has been converted into beautiful gardens, and is crossed at two different places by a spacious bridge and an earthen mound. On the summit of a tremendous 152 i i precipice stands Edinburgh Castle, whose origin is clouded in obscurity. 'L There, watching high the least alarm, Thy rough, rude fortress gleams amtr; Like some bold vet'ran, gray in arms, And mark'd with many a seamy scar; Thy pond'rous wall and massy bar, Giim-rising o'er the rugged rock, Have oft withstood assailing war, And oft repell'd the invader's shock." It is one of those fortresses which by the articles of union between England and Scotland must be kept fortified. To see the crown jewels, which are kept strongly guarded in an old apartment of this castle, it will be necessary to procure an order at the Council Chamber, Royal Exchange, between twelve and three o'clock. This castle is teeming with romance and historical interest. See Scott's description of its capture from the English by Randolph, Earl of Moray, in 1313. Sir William Kirkaldy defended it for Mary Queen of Scots thirtythree days, having to contend against the combined force of both England and Scotland. The room is shown here where that unfortunate queen first became a mother, and the window where her son, afterward James VI., when only eight days old, was let down in a basket to be conveyed to a place of greater safety. Visit the State Prison, Armory, Mons Meg-a gigantic cannon, twenty inches in diameter at the bore: it was used at the siege of Norham Castle in 1514, and was formerly one of the most admired relics in the Tower of London. It was restored to this castle in 1829 by George IV., after remaining in the Tower a century and a half. The public buildings are very chaste in their design, and the general architecture of the city imposing and picturesque. Edinburgh is said to resemble Athens, and, in fact, has been termed by many writers the " Modern Athens." The principal street of Edinburgh is Princes Street: here most of the hotels are located, and also the elegant monument to Sir Walter Scott, designed by George M. Kemp, who died before having completed the structure. It is 200 feet high, and has 287 steps leading to the top of the gallery. The statues in the niches are taken from the different works of the great writer: statue of Prince Charles (from Waverley); Meg Merrilies (from Guy Mansering), representing her breaking the sap - I I I RC lRol"ie Gm-den ske cozen, 0 lose,, -OrMyPea", O Aal&Z z A top Vll a 4N 13 sib rpe c4a 3 Ira i0j 77// dow' s IDT e T ftarpee- aid ook I - V-1 — X s i i r r i i i 1 1 j j C s i I i i a i a i i Ii I I i II EDINBURGH. [SCOTLAND.] EDINBURGH. ling over the head of Lucy Bertram; Last Minstrel playing the harp; Lady of the Lake; and George Heriot. Sir Walter Scott was born at Edinburgh, August 15th, 1771; died at Abbotsford, September 21st, 1832. A large marble statue of Sir Walter, and at his side his pet dog Bevis, is placed under the canopy of the monument. Under the foundation stone is located a plate bearing the following inscription by Lord Jeffrey: This graven plate, deposited in the base of a votive building on the fifteenth day of August, in the year of Christ 1S40, and never likely to see the light again till all the surrounding structures are crumbled to dust by the decay of time, or by human or elemental violence, may then testify to a distant posterity that hli countrymen began on that day to raise an effigy and architectural monument to the memory of Sir Walter Scott, Bart., whose admirable writings were then allowed to have given more delight and suggested better feeling to a larger class of readers in every rank of society than those of any other author, with the exception of Shakspeare alone; and which were therefore thought likely to be remembered long after this act of gratitude, on the part of tile first generation of his admirers, should be forgotten." The National Picture-gallery, founded by Prince Albert in 1850, and completed in 1854, is of the Greek-Ionic order, and was designed by W. and C. Playfair. The galleries entered from the east portico are assigned to the Royal Scottish Academy's Annual Exhibition of the works of living artists. Open from February to May-admission, one shilling. The west gallery contains the permanent collection of the Academy, also a fine collection of the works of the best English, Scotch, and European artists. Admission daily, from 10 to 5. The Royal Institution is situated on the mound which fronts on Hanover Street. It is of the Doric order, and it also was designed by Playfair. The Central School of the Royal Scottish Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture is carried on in this building. In the same premises is the Statue Gallery (which contains a valuable collection of casts from the antique) and the A ntiquarian Museum. Tp9 VOL. I.-G 2 the west of the mound are located the gardens, which afford agreeable walks, and at the highest point of which is an ancient monument brought from Sweden, made from a block of granite 5j feet high, with Runic inscription: "Ari rasti staip aftir Hialm Fadur sir; Guth hialbi ant lIans." The translation of which is, "Ari erected this stone for Hialm, his father: God help his soul." The Register House, used as a depository for public records, at the east end of Princes Street, forms a square of 200 feet, and contains 100 apartments, where the public business is transacted, and is surmounted by a dome 200 feet in height. In front of the building is an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, by John Steele, R.S.A. The offices of the Inland Revenue are located on Waterloo Place. The build. ings on this street are much admired: the style of architecture light, chaste, and attractive. Upon the left of the stairway leading to Calton Hill stands the monument erected to Dugald Stewart, designed by Mr. Playfair; near it is the Observatory. On the summit of the hill Nelson's Monument is located, and from this point Burns's Monument is visible, also the Jail, the valley at Holyrood, Arthur's Seat, Lammermoor, and Pentland Hills. Near Nelson's Monument is the National Monument erected to the memory of the heroes of Waterloo. It was intended as an imitation of the Parthenon, but was never finished, ownhg to a want of funds. In Calton church-yard is a monumental tower erected to the memory of the historian, David Hume. St. Giles's Cathedral, named after the protecting saint of Edinburgh, retains much of its ancient Gothic work, and its irregular appearance renders it attractive, and bears comparison with many of the finest specimens of this style of architecture. The first mention made of it is in 1350, by a charter of David II. In 1446 it became a collegiate church, and contained forty altars. It was in this church, in 1603, that James VI. delivered his farewell address previous to his departure for England, when about to take possession of the crown. During the Reformation it was made to accommodate four places of worship. Part of it.was used as a prison, part for the police 153 EDINBURGH. [SCOTLAND.] EDINBURGH. court, part for the chambers of the town clerk. The part at the south end of the transept, used as the "' Old Kirk," was the scene of a most amusing incident in 1637, which gave much popularity to the second Reformation. A rather choleric " greenwife," Jenny Geddes, had brought her stool with her to church on the memorable day on which the obnoxious Liturgy ofLaudwas to be introduced into Scotland by authority. The Bishop of Edinburgh had just asked the dean to read "the Collect for the day," when Jenny exclaimed, " Colic, said? the de'il colic the wame o' ye; wud ye say mass at my lug?" and she lifted up her stool and sent it flying at the dean's head. The stool is now preserved in the Antiquarian Museum, and Dr. M'Crie says it was well for the de\n that he had learned to "jouk," or the consequences might have been serious. The University of Edinburgh, founded by James VI., is a fine educational establishment, having a library containing 130,000 volumes, and a museum rich in objects of natural history. The Royal College of Surgeons is a handsome Grecian edifice, situated a short distance south of the University. The museum is in front of the building; visitors are admitted by an order from a Fellow by application at the door. The Barclay and Bell collections are well worth a visit. One of the most attractive features of the city is the George IV. Bridge; and the Grayfriars' church-yard, formerly the garden belonging to the monastery of the Grayfriars, and now used as a cemetery, is interesting from the fact of many of Scotland's most distinguished men being interred there. 'he largest square in the old town is George's, where were located the principal residences of the nobility. St. Andrew's Square is the principal business portion of the city: in the centre is the Melville Monument. On the northwest corner is located the house where Lord Brougham was born, and on the southwest corner the residence of David Hume. In the centre of Parliament Square stands the equestrian statue of Charles II., considered a fine piece of statuary. Here may be seen a slab let into the pavement with the letters J.XK. This is the burial-place of John Knox, the greatRefrmer. The place is considered a part f the cemetery of St. Gile's Church, which stands near. Parlia154 ment House, where the meetings of the Supreme Court occur, has been recently renovated; the great hall, with its finely arched roof of carved oak, serves as a promenade for the members of the court when not engaged in carrying on their cases. At the north end of the hall is a statue of Duncan Forbes, of Culloden, by Roubiliac. It has the following inscription on the pedestal: " Duncano Forbes, de Culloden, supremee in civilibus curiac praesidi judici integerrimo civi optimo priscee virtutis viro facultas juridica libens possint anno post obitum quinto." The Adoocates' Library is rich in printed volumes, amounting to 150,000; also a valuable collection of Scottish poetry, 400 volumes; and 1700 MSS. This is one of the five libraries that are Ientitled to a copy of every new work that is published in Great Britain. The office of librarian has always been filled by distinguished men and able scholars, and the custom is still continued, the office being now filled by i person experienced as a linruist and otherwise very talented. One of the finest ornaments of the city is Victoria Hall, with its noble spire, which rises to the height of 241 feet. On the north of Lawnmarket is Lady Stairs' Close, the alley in which is laid the scene of Sir Walter Scott's romance, "My Aunt Margaret's Mirror." Over the door, which figures conspicuously in the story, is a coat of arms, and the legend "Fear the Lord and depart from evil." The next most important memorial of Scotland's ancient splendor is the remains of the palace of Holyrood. It was a magnificent building in former days. Both palace and abbey are open to the public every day except Sunday: on Saturday, free; other days by ticket-price sixpence. This palace is the ancient residence of Scottish royalty, and owes its foundation to the miraculous deliverance. of David I., who, while hunting in an adjoining forest, was attacked by an infuriated stag, when suddenly a fiery cross appeared in the sky which frightened the animal; the king then founded the abbey to commemorate his deliverance in the year 1128. The most interesting rooms in the palace are those last occupied by the unfortunate Mary; her bedchamber remains in the same state as when she left it; and the cabinet where her secretary and favor EDINBURGH. [SCOTLAND.] EDINBURGH. ite, Rizzio, was murdered, is shown, with A visit should be made to John Knox's marks of his blood still upon the floor.- House, in High Street. It is shown on See Sir Walter's Scott's "Chronicles of Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 10 to 4; Canongate." The roofless choir is shown fee, sixpence. Over the door is the inwhere once stood the altar before which scription, "Lufe God ablf all, and ye nychtthe beautiful Mary and the next nearest bolu as yiself" He died here November heir to the English crown, Henry Darn- 24,1572, in the sixty-seventh year of his ley, were united. In the picture-gallery age. are some frightfully executed portraits of One of the sights of Edinburgh is Hale over one hundred of Scotland's kings, evi- kerston's Wynd, the house of Allan Ramdently painted by the same hand, and from say, the bookseller and poet. It was here imagination. In this hall Prince Charles that nearly all his original publications held his levees and balls while his army were given to the world. was encamped at Arthur's Seat. Lord Cannongate Tolbooth and Court House, Darnley's rooms, with a portrait, are shown with its projecting clock over the entrance. on the same floor. is a fine specimen of the Scottish architectHolyrood Chapel is all that remains of ure of the 16th century. It was built in Holyrood Abbey, or Abbey of the Holy 1591. Over the entrance are the arms of Cross. Its style is an elegant illustra- the once independent burg of Cannongate, tion of the transition of the Norman into with the motto, " Sic itur ad astra." Not the Cothic architecture. It has been the very appropriate to a place of coinlnement. scene of many interesting historical events. At the east end of the building notice an Charles I. was here crowned king of Scot- old stone pillar to which scolds and slan. land, James II., James III., and Queen derers were fastened by an iron collar. Mary and Darnley were married at its al- Cannongate Church was erected in 1688; tar. The last time mass was said at its it stands at the east of the jail and back chapel was in the reign of James VII., from the street. The Church-yard deserves which excited the people to its destruction a visit on account of the many notable at the Revolution. The remains of Scot- persons there interred; among the num.. land's kings, who were buried within the her were Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, church, were desecrated by the mob in Dr. Adam Ferguson, David Allen, and the 1688; and it is now extremely difficult to poet Robert Ferguson. This latter died know for a certainty whose bones are there at the early age of twenty-three. When and whose are not of those who were in- Burns visited Edinburgh in 1786, his first terred within its holy precincts. Rizzio, by visit was to the grave of his "elder broththe command of the queen, was first inter- er in the Muses;" he was affected even to red in the royal vault, but was afterward tears, and from the first money he received removed to another part of the chapel. from the publication of his poems he erectThe Palace Stables have been handsome- ed a monument to the memory of his brothly restored, and in front a very beautiful er poet. On its face he had engraved the fountain has been erected. On its site following touching inscription: formerly stood a statue of the queen, erect- o sculptured marble 1ere! No pompons lay! ed by the patriotic citizens of Edinburgh. No storied urn or animnatd bust. It was so horribly ugly that at her majes- This s'mple stone directs pale.$cotia's way ty's request it was buried six feet deep in To pour h r sorrows o'er her poet's dust." the court-yard of the royal stables. On the other side of the monument are Notice in the Palace Gardens a singular the following words: "By special grant dial called Queen Mary's. of the managers to Robert Burns, who Outside the palace gates there is a singu- erected this stone, this burial-ground is to lar building called "Queen Mary's Bath," remain sacred to the memory of Robert where it is reported that unfortunate lady Ferguson." was in the habit of taking white-wine baths The Old Cross of Edinburgh was restored to protect or enhance her personal charms. in 1866: it consists of a single stone twen'While some repairs were being made here ty feet high, surmounted by a unicorn. It in 1789, a most exquisite inlaid dagger was formerly stood upon an octagon base, fiffound sticking in the roof. teen feet high and sixteen in diameter, 155 EDINBURGH. [SCOTLAND.] EDINBURGH. from which in olden times the royal edicts were read. It was removed in 1756 to the estate of Lord Somerville at Drum, and erected on his lawn, the town council having tnought it encumbered the street,which was a mere pretext. SirWalter Scott indignantly spoke of its removal: "Dun-Edin's Cross. a pillar'd stone, 1Pose on a turret octagon (But now is razed that monument Whence royal ed ct rang, And vo ce of Scotland's law was sent In glorious trumpet clang). O! be his tomb as lead to lead Upon its dull de-troyer's headA minstrel s malisol is said." It is erected nearly on the same spot within the railings of St. Giles's Church, and Sir Walter's spirit is appeased. The city is indebted to David Laing, LL.D., and James Drummond, IR.S.A., for its restoration. The New Post-ofice, at the east end of Princes Street, should be visited. It is a very handsome building, in the modern Italian stylc The corner-stone was laid by the Prince Consort, October 23. 1861; and the work, which was designed by Robert Matheson, has been admirably carried out. The Register office is immediately opposite. On North College Street stands the Museum of Science and A rt, a handsome building, erected at the expense of the government from designs of Captain Fowke, R.E. The corner-stone of the building was laid by the Prince Consort in 1861; the museum was opened under the auspices of the Duke of Edinburgh, May, 1866. It is four hundred feet long by two hundred wide, and is built of stone, iron, and glass. The architecture is of the Venetian character, and the columns and pilasters of red stone have a very pretty effect on the white surface. The Natural History collection is situated in the east wing. There is suspended from the ceiling of the gallery probably the largest skeleton of a whale that has ever been preserved. Its length is nearly eighty feet. The whale was found floating at the mouth of the Firth, in 1829, by some fishermen from Dunbar. The specimens of birds amount to ten thousand. The galleries contain well - arranged specimens of the principal materials used 156 in the arts and manufactures, showing their progress from the earliest ages. The specimens of raw material are exceedingly interesting. The ground-floor is principal. ly occupied by the materials used for the construction of houses. The Geological collection is large, and embraces that made by the celebrated Hugh Miller. The School of Arts, founded in 1821, is one of the best institutions in the kingdom. It stands immediately opposite the Museum of Science and Art. Grayfriars' Church and Church-yard. Old Grayfriars' Church was erected in 1612; but in 1718, being used at the time as the town powder-magazine, it was blown up. It was here that the National Covenant was first signed in 1638. The church has since been restored. The interest is, however, centred in the church-yard, where the dust of the different leaders of separate factions rests forever. Here also lie the remains of Allan Ramsay, the Scottish poet, George Buchanan, the Latin poet, Robertson, the historian, Dr. Black, the great chemist and philosopher, and others. The most interesting monument in the church-yard is the Martyrs' Monument, which contains the following inscription: "From May 27, 1661, that the most noble Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to the 17th of February, 1688, that Mr. James Renwick suffered, were one way or other murdered and destroyed for the same cause about eighteen thousand, of whom were executed at Edinburgh about one hundred of noblemen, gentlemen, ministers, and others, noble martyrs for Jesus Christ." On the north side of the same grounds is the monument of Sir George Mackenzie, the king's advocate during this time of persecution, who secured the title of "Bloody Mackenzie" from Davie Deans, who said, " He will be kenned by the name of Bloody Mackenzie so long as there's a Scot's tongue to speak the word." Not long since it used to be the test of a boy's courage to cry after nightfall in the keyhole of the tomb" 3ltlidy Mackenzie, come oot if ye daur; Lift the sneck, and draw the bar." But they never waited to see if Mackenzie responded to their threat. A few minutes' walk from Grayfriars, EDINBURGH. [SCOTLAND.] LEITH. and the gate of Heriot's Hospital is reached. This is one of the handsomest edifices in the city; it was finished in 1660, and owes its existence to George Heriot, jeweler to James VI. Its object is the maintenance and education of fatherless boys, or boys whose parents are in indigent circumstances. The management is vested in the town council and clergy of the city. Orders to see it can be obtained at the Secretary's office, Royal Exchange, High Street. Donaldson's IHospital is a magnificent structure, built from designs by Playfair, and erected in the Tudor style of architecture. It is a quadrangular building, two hundred and seventy feet long on either side. It was endowed and built for the education of two hundred poor boys and girls by James Donaldson, an Edinburgh printer, who bequeathed over one million of dollars for that purpose. The building is situated in such a conspicuous position that travelers can not fail to see it on arriving and departing from the city. The hospitals of Edinburgh are most numerous; charity is one of the first and greatest of the virtues of its citizens. There are, in addition to those already named, Fetti's College, Stewart's Hospital, Watson's Hospital, and the Orphan Hospital. One of the first things the traveler should do on arriving at Edinburgh is to take a drive over the winding road around Arthur's Seat, called the Queen's Drive. South of Holyrood is the Queen's Park and Salisbury Craigs,whence a magnificent view may be had. Ascending up Radical Road, so called from the political principles of the workmen employed in its construction in 1821, we arrive at Arthur's Seat, a massive mountain over eight hundred feet high. It has the outline of a recumbent lion, and is a beautiful object in the surroundings of the city of Edinburgh. Sir Walter Scott describes it in his "Chronicles of the Canongate:" A nobler contrast there can hardly exist than that of the huge city, dark with the smoke of ages, and groaning with the various sounds of active industry or idle revel, and the lofty and craggy hill, silent and solitary as the grave; one exhibiting the full tide of existence, pressing and precipitating itself forward with the force of an inunda tion; the other resembling some time-worn anchorite, whose life passes as silent and unobserved as the slender rill which escapes unheard and scarce seen from the fountain of his patron saint. The city resembles the busy temple where the modern Comus and Mammon hold their court, and thousands sacrifice ease, independence, and virtue itself at their shrine; the misty and lonely mountain seems as a throne to the majestic but terrible genius of feudal times, when the same divinities dispersed coronets and domains to those who had heads to devise and arms to execute bold enterprises." The hill is supposed to have taken its name from the British Prince Arthur, who gained a victory over the Saxons in the neighborhood in the sixth century. From this proceed to Calton Hill (already described), and note the contrast. George Street will soon display a row of very fine monuments. At the intersection of Hanover Street there is now a statue of George IV., and of William Pitt at Pitt Street, both by Chantrey. and in the centre of Charlotte Square will soon be erected the national monument to the Prince Consort, also one to Dr. Chalmers, both by Steele, an artist who has acquired a fine reputation. Excursions in the vicinity of Edinburgh: to Leith, Newhaven, and Granton. Trains start every half-hour. There are also omnibuses and tramway cars. Leith, the sea-port of Edinburgh, and most important naval station on the east coast of Scotland, is about a mile and a half from the centre of the city. There is here a splendid graving dock, which cost $400,000; also a floating dock. One mile west of Leith is the elegant Granton Pier, constructed recently by the Duke of Buccleuch; also a fine harbor and breakwater. The North British Railway trains here cross for Fife and the North. The lugrgage trains are run into vessels covered with rails. Between Granton and Edinburgh is the Royal Botanic Garden and the Edinburgh Cemetery, which is laid out with much taste. Near here is St. Mary's, the neatest church in the city, and the Zoological Gardens. Opposite Leith is Burntislanzd, where trains are waiting to convey passengers on the arrival of the steamer to Elie, Anstruther, St. Andrew's, and Dundee. Burntisland is a 157 HAWTHORNDEN. [SCOTLAND.] DALKEITH PALACE. favorite watering-place for the citizens of Edinburgh, and contains 3300 inhabitants. Hotel, Forth. Perhaps the most interesting and lovely of all the excursions in the vicinity of Edinburgh is that to Hawthornden, Rosl n Castie and Chapel, and Dlkceith Palace. As the days on which each of these places is open are liable to change, inform yourself by inquiring at your hotel what day you can see them all. A carriage had better be taken from the city, although one can reach all the places by rail. The train might be taken from Waverley Bridge to Hawthornden station, and return from Roslin by the Edinburgh and Roslin coach. Dalkeith Palace, the farthest point, is only nine miles from the city. sawthornden was the lovely residence of the poet Drummond, the intimate friend of Shakespeare and Jonson, and is now inhabited by his lineal descendant. It is considered by all writers one of the most lovely spots in Scotland; it is situated on the River Esk, about five miles from the city. Ben Jonson walked all the distance from London to visit the poet, and spent several weeks with him in this charming retreat. A garden seat is shown where the following greeting took place: " Welcome, welcome, Royal Ben-" "'T'lhankie, thankie, Hawthornden." Passing up through the exquisite scenery of the Esk, in two miles we arrive at the Castle of Roslin, the origin of which is hid in obscurity. It was for many centuries the residence of the ancient family of the St. Clairs, Earls of Orkney and Caithness, whose heirs now own the property. Its chapel, a short distance from the castle, is considered the most beautiful specimen of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland. It is built in the Gothic style, but the architecture is most varied and singular. Notice particularly the 'Prentice Pillar. There is a tradition that the architect went to Rome to acquire the knowledge of producing one pillar of surpassing excellence, but on his return he discovered that an apprentice had already accomplished the work in such a manner that he had no hope to rival it. when he immediately struck him a deathhlow with a hammer. The Barons of Roslin, up to the time of James VI., were all intrred beneath the chapel in complete 158 suits of armor. There is a tradition that immediately preceding the death of any of the Lords of Roslin this chapel appeared in flames: this tradition is exquisitely described by Sir Walter Scott in his ballad of Rosabelle. Two miles from Roslin is the town of Dalkeith, at the extremity of which is its palace, which is shown in the absence of the family on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It is the residence of the Duke of Buccleuch. The palace is a large square structure, surrounded by a magnificent park, through which the North and South Esk flow, uniting close to the mansion. The property belonged to the Graham family until the 14th century, but was granted to Sir William Douglas in 1369, on the payment of a pair of white gloves or a silver penny to the king on the Feast of Pentecost. The Earl of Morton, a descendant of Sir William Douglas, in the reign of Queen Mary made this stronghold his head - quarters. At this time, owing to its strength, it acquired the name of the " Lion's Den." In 1642 it was purchased by the Earl of Buccleuch, in whose family it has since remained. Charles I. resided here a short time in 1663, George IV. in 1822, and Queen Victoria in 1842. There are numerous fine portraits by first-rate masters. On the grand staircase we see the Master of the Horse, Sir Nicholas Carew, by Holbein, and a portrait of the Duke of Monmouth. In the drawingroom, the Duke and Duchess of Montague, by Gainsborough, the Duke of Buccleuch, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, a Rembrandt, a Vandyck, a Stag-hunt, by Wouvermans, Adoration of the Saints, by Andrea del Sarto, a fine Claude, and others. ROUTE No. 60. Edinhbtrgh to Berwick, via Melrose, Abbot.ford, Dryhbrgh, Kelso, and Coldstream. Melrose Abbey, Abbotsford (former residence of Sir Walter Scott), and the Abbey of Dryburgh (Sir Walter's burial-place), MELROSE. [SCOTLAND.] MIELROSE ABBEY. are generally visited from Edinburgh, as they can all be seen comfortably in one day. This is considered one of the most interesting excursions in Scotland. Or it might be better to take these places on your way to London, should you first have visited Glasgow, Ayr, etc. Or, should you be coming to Edinburgh, first stop one night at Melrose, sending your baggage on to the capital, to the Hotel Royal. You will find first-rate accommodations at the George Hotel, which is conducted by Mr. Menziespay no attention to railway officials, who are paid for endeavoring to make you change your plans. he keeps conveyances for making the excursions to Abbotsford and Dryburgh at fixed prices. The day before you arrive drop him a line, and he will have conveyances at the station to meet you. Leave Edinburgh by the 10.15 train. Time to Melrose, 1 hr. 10 min. Three miles from Edinburgh Portobello is passed, then Crichton Castle on the east and Borthwick Castle on the west. Queen Mary retreated to the latter a few weeks after her marriage with Bothwell. Passing Galashiels, which is an industrious town, and the principal seat of tweed-cloth manufacture in Scotland, we arrive at Melrose, a small town containing 1150 inhtbitants. Principal hotel, The George, admirably conducted by Mr. Menzies, who will supply you with carriage and horses. Notice the Cross which stands in the Market-place, with the royal arms of Scotland on the top. Order a carriage for Abbotsford and Dryburgh, and while it is getting ready visit the ruins of Melrose Abbey. The usual tariff to Abbotsford and back is 7s. 6d. To Dryburgh and back, via Bemerside Hill, 10s. 6d., and sixpence a mile for the driver. Ahbotsford lying to the east and Dryburgh to the west of Melrose, the visitor has to retrace his steps. There are numerous handsome and interesting drives which can be made from Melrose if the traveler have time. From Melrose to Selkirk and Newark, returning on the south side of the Yarrow, 26 miles in all, carriage 20s., without the driver or tolls. From Melrose to Kelso by Mertoun, 80 miles, 22s. 6d.. without driver or tolls. Melrose Abbes. so famous in romance and poetry, is one of the finest specimens of Gothic architecture in Europe, and from it many of the best architects of the world have received their inspirations. The Abbey was founded by David I. in 1136, but was not completed until ten years later, when it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The first monks who settled here belonged to the Cistercian order, and were given to pastoral and agricultural pursuits. Their life was simple and frugal, but in course of time they must have degenerated, as an old song says" The monks of Melrose made fat kail On Fridays when they fasted; And wanted neither beef nor ale As lang's their neeboars lasted." The Abbey is now all in ruins,with the exception of the church, yet its ornaments and edges are as sharp and fine as when newly cut. The church is in the form of a Latin cross, with a central tower eightyfour feet high, the choir and transept being the best preserved. The principal entrance is by a beautiful Gothic door in the south transept, over which is an exquisite window twenty-four feet in height and sixteen in breadth, the stone-work being perfect. Over this window are niches which formerly contained figures of the Saviour and Apostles, and beneath the window an image of John the Baptist looking upward. The buttresses and pinnacles contain forms of musicians and plants sculptured in a most exquisite manner. In the southern wall are eight beautiful windows sixteen feet high, the tracery of which is of the most elegant and beautiful description; but the grandest object is the great east window, thirty-seven feet high and sixteen feet broad, with beautiful light tracery and tall, slender shafts, only eight inches thick, of which Sir Walter Scott says — 'Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand 'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand In many a freakish knot had twined; Then framed a spell wheli the work was done, And changed the willow-wreaths to stone." Notice the roof of the high altar-it is remarkably beautiful. In the centre is a sitting figure supporting Christ on the cross, with numerous other figures, while the groined ribs of the chancel are elegantly carved in groups of flowers.. The Cloister formed a quadrangle on the northwest side of the chapel, stretching alongside the whole of the nave. There are only seven seats remaining: the arches 169 ABBOTSFORD. [SCOTLAND.] DRYBURGH ABBEY. over them are carved in a most exquisite style. Observe the floors of the choir and chancel: here lie the remains of many a gallant knight. At the high altar Alexander II. was buried. On its south side is the grave of St.Waldevus, also James, second Earl of Douglas, who fell at Otterburn, and William Douglas, "The Dark Knight of Liddesdale." The heart of Robert the Bruce is said to have been interred here, when his friend Douglas had made an ineffectual attempt to carry it to the Holy Land. A flat, mossy stone is pointed out as the grave of the famous wizard Michael Scott, whose magic books were buried with him, and whose funeral is described by the monk in the " Lay of the Last Minstrel:" "I blried him on St. Michlael's night, When tha bell tolled one, an I the moon was bright; And I dug hi. chamber amonu the dead Where the fli)o of the chanc-l was stained with red, That his pat on's cross might over him wave, And scare the fi o;n s from the wizard's grave." The woman who keeps the keys of the Abbey lives close by the entrance; she will expect a small fee. About three miles from the Abbey stands Abbotsford, situated on the banks of the Tweed. The plantations as well as the house are the creation of Sir Walter Scott. Of world-wide renown is this mansion; not that its position or beauty are much to be admired, but the name of the genius that once inhabited it is fresh in the memory of every individual who speaks the English language, and must remain so for ages. Abbotsford is now the property of Mr. Hope Scott, who married Sir Walter's granddaughter. The principal apartments in the house are the armory, hung with nearly every kind of weapon. The drawing-room is a spacious apartment, richly furnished in cedar and carved ebony: most of the contents were presented by George IV. to the poet. The dining-room contains many handsome portraits and pictures, one of which is the head of Mary Queen of Scots on a charger; Cromwell, Charles II., etc. The library contains a choice collection of 20.000 volumes. In a small closet off the study is a case containing the last clothes Sir Walter worewhite hat, plaid pantaloons, striped vest, 160 shoes, and gaiters. In a niche at the upper end of the room is placed the marble bust of Sir Walter taken by Chantrey in 1820. The study, which contains a few volumes of reference, remains nearly as the poet left it. Abbotsford is closed to visitors during the winter months. During the remainder of the year they are admitted daily from 12 A.M. to 6 P.M., except Sundays. There is no fixed charge for admission to the house, but a shilling for a single individual, and two and sixpence for a party, is about the usual fee. Darnick Tower, on the way to Melrose, should be visited: there is a curious museum of relics of border history. D/yburgh A bbey is one of the most picturesque ruins in Scotland: it was founded by Hugh de Morville. Constable of Scotland, during the reign of David I., 1150. The resident monks were Premonstratensians from Alnwick. It was burned by the English in 1322, and again in 1545. James Stuart, of the Darnley family was its last abbot. He was buried undt. the altar. The structare was originally cruciform, divided into three parts by two colonnaded arches. Notice a fine Norman arch, which was originally the western doorway. The traveler first seeks St. Mary's Aisle, a small apartment at the right of the church. It was formerly the burial-place of.the Haliburtons, but was gifted in 1791 to two uncles of Sir Walter Scott by the Earl of Buchan, who were descended from the former proprietors on the mother's side. Sir Walter Scott was buried here, at his particular request, on the 26th of September, 1832. His wife's tomb is on his left, but they are both covered by one massive slab of granite, shaped so as to seem two altar tombs. The simple inscription on the tombstone of the poet is in these words: " Sir Walter Scott, Baronet. Died September 21, A.D. 1832." His eldest son, Colonel Sir Walter Scott,lies on his right, while at his feet lie the remains of Mr. Lockhart, his son-in-law, friend, and biographer. The nave of the church, which was 190 feet long, must have been very beautiful. Nearly every spot of the church, with the exception of St. Mary's Aisle, is covered with living green. An open railing in front protects the monuments, at the same time giving every facility to inspect them?' Of the Monastery the chapter-house JEDBURGH. [SCOTLAND.] FLOORS CASTLI. alone remains intact, although of greater antiquity than the church. Among the places shown to visitors is a cell devoted to torture. A hole is cut in the stone wall: into this the prisoner's hand was wedged with wood, the hole being so placed that the victim could neither stand nor sit, but must remain on his knees. In another of the cells Sir Walter Scott tells us the Nun of Dryburgh took up her abode, never quitting it until nightfall, when she went in search of food, having made a vow that she would never look upon the sun again until her lover's return. She kept her word; but he never returned, having fallen in the war of 1745. The court-yard, with the tree in the centre, reminds one much ofMuckross Abbey. Notice opposite the entrance an old yew-tree, planted the same time the Abbey was built. At the time of the dissolution of the religious houses the Dryburgh estates were granted to the Earl of Mar, from whose descendants it was purchased by the Earl of Buchan. The ruins now stand in the grounds of Dryburgh House, the property of the Hon. Mr. Erskine. For admission apply at the lodge. The charge for showing the ruins is one shilling for a party of three or under; over that, sixpence each. The ruins of the house where Ralph and Ebenezer Erskine, fathers of the Secession Church, passed their boyhood, are also shown inside the grounds. On an adjoining hill may be seen the colossal statue of Sir William Wallace, twenty-two feet high, erected by the late Earl of Buchan. There is also a handsome suspension bridge across the river, constructed by the same nobleman. From the ferry it is three miles to Selkirk, a dull town with little to see. There is a statue of Sir Walter Scott, and one of Mungo Park, who was a native of the shire. From Melrose to Roxburgh Junction; time, 25 minutes. Here there is a branch road to Jedburgh in 25 minutes. Jedburgqk is the county town of Roxburghshire. Hotels, Harrow and Spread Eagle. The town contains 3700 inhabitants. It is situated on the River Jed, and has the appearance, as it is, of a place of great antiquity. It was at one time of much importance, and defended by a castle of great strength, with many towers. It was often the rendezvous of the Scottish armies, and was repeatedly burned and pillaged by the English. The old castle stood on the site of the present jail, and was surrendered to England at one time as security for the ransom of William the Lion. It was also a favorite residence of the Scottish monarchs from David I. to Alexander III. In the lower part of the town the old mansion is still shown where Queen Mary lay sick for several weeks, her life being despaired of. She had come to Jedburgh to hold the assizes, and having heard that Bothwell had been wounded in an encounter with a notorious freebooter. named John Elliot, and was lying ill at Hermitage Castle, a distance of twenty miles, she rode there and back the same day, forty miles, and was in consequence thrown into a violent fever. The Abbey is the principal object of attraction: it was founded by David I., and its abbots were at one time very powerful. It suffered much during the English wars, when Scotland was invaded by Edward I. and III. At the time of the Reformation the lands were bestowed upon Sir Andrew Kerr, with the title of Lord Jedburgh, and they are now in the possession of a descendant, the Marquis of Lothian. The north transept, which is entire, is appropriated as a burial-place for that nobleman's family. An excursion should be made up the Jed River a short distance, if staying a day at Jedburgh. Near by are Bonjedward and Mount Teviot, seats of the Marquis of Lothian, and Hartrigge, the mansion of Lord Chancellor Campbell; also Fernihurst, formerly a strong fortress, now a farm-house. Returning to Roxburgh Junction, a short distance from Kelso (ten minutes) notice on the left Floors Castle, the seat of the Duke of Roxburgh. Admission only on Wednesdays. Permits given at Kelso at the Branch Bank of Scotland. The castle is comparatively modern, dating from 1718, and is very beautiful. A holly-bush in the park marks the spot where James II. was killed while besieging Roxburgh Castle. This last is situated on the other side of the Tweed, one mile and a quarter from Kelso. There is very little of its ruins now to be seen, although at one time itwas a fortress of considerable extent and importance. 161 [SCOTLAND.] KELSO. COLDSTREAMi Kelso. Hotels, Cross Keys and Queen's Head. Population 4700. This town is beautifully situated on the banks of the Tweed, and comprises four principal streets, with a large square, or market-place, in the centre. The Town Hall occupies a place in the square; it was erected in 1816, and has a tower from whence bells ring the chimes and the curfew. The houses are all well built, and the residents seem happy and comfortable. The environs are most beautifll, and have been the subject of numerous poets' praise: "Bosom'd in woods where mighty rivers run, Kelso's fair vale expands before the sun; Its rising downs in vernal beauty sw l, And fringed with hazel \ i Ids each flowery dell. Green spangled plains to dimpled lawns succeed, And 'r mpe rises on the banks of Tweed. Blue o'er the river Kelso's shadow lies, And copse-clad isles amid the waters rise." The ruins of the Abbey are among the most magnificent in Scotland, and the church is an elegant specimen of the Romanesque style, verging into the Pointed. The Abbey was founded by David I. in 1128; but it was nearly half a century before it was finished. King David's eldest son, Henry, Earl of Northumberland, was buried here in 1162. The monks were of the Order of the Benedictines, who, being first established in France, at Tiron, were called Tironenses. They were first settled at Selkirk, near King David's palace, but when he became king by the death of his brother he removed the convent to Kelso, that being nearest the royal palace, or castle, of Roxburgh. Kelso suffered greatly during the wars between England and Scotland on account of its contiguity to the English frontier. It was several times destroyed by fire, and again restored; but it owes its present reduced condition to the Earl of Hertford, who laid it waste by fire in 1545. After the Reformation it was for a while used as a kirk, and patched up with vulgar masonry and whitewash; but during the present century this has all been removed, and it has been much strengthened in good taste by its present owner. The Earl of Bothwell having been attainted for hightreason in 1592, the estates, which include Kelso Abbey, were conferred on Sir Robert Kerr of Cessford, whose. descend162 ant, the Duke of Roxburgh, still holds possession. A visit should be paid to the Museum, which is open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. A short distance below the town is Rosebank, a small house on the banks of the Tweed, where Sir Walter Scott used to live when a boy, and at Kelso his first productions were printed. He evidently understood the people here well, as he says of their religious feelingslt The Kelso men slank all awayThey liked not muchi to liynmn ror pray; Nor like they 't much unto this day." The Tweed is here crossed by a handsome bridge, which leads to Ednam House. From Kelso to Berwick, 1 hr. 45 min. Passing Wark [where is situated Wark Castte, celebrated in border history as one of the strongest of the frontier fortresses. It was defended by the Countess of Salisbury against David II., who had laid siege to it, which he was compelled to raise. Edward III., arriving soon after, fell in love with the castle's beautiful defender. It is now the property of Lady Waterford. Wark Church is deserving a visit], we arrive at Coldstream (one mile from the station). Hotel, Newcastle Arms. Population 2450. It was in this town that Gen-:ral Monk raised a regiment in 1660 to assist at the restoration of Charles II. It was named the Coldstream Guards, and has ever since retained that denomination. It is one of the most celebrated regiments in the British Army. In consequence of its proximity to England, Coldstream has, like Gretna Green, been celebrated for the runaway matches and irregular marriages that have taken place there. Several Lord Chancellors of England were married here, Lord Brougham among the number. Near Coldstream is the ford of the Tweed where the English and Scotch'armies crossed when making their inroads into each other's country. The river is now crossed by a fine bridge erected in 1766. Four miles from Coldstream is Swinton House, the seat of the Swinton family, renowned in Scotch hiStory. The. estate, with the exception of two short periods, has remained.in the same family since the time of the Anglo- Saxon: monarchy. It YFLODDEN. [SCOTLAND.] HADDINGTON. was originally granted to the first Swinton for having cleared the country of the wild swine which infested it. Many of his descendants were famous warriors. One of them, Sir John Swinton,when in the French service, at the battle of Beague unhorsed Thomas, Duke of Clarence, brother of Henry V.: " And Swinton laid the lance in rest That tamed ot y.,re the sparkling crest Of Clarence's Plantagenet." Sir Walter Scott's grandmother was a daughter of Sir John Swinton of Swinton. In the vicinity is the battle-field of Fodden, fought between the English and Scotch armies, September 9,1513, in which the latter were defeated, after having at one time during the day been the victors. King James IV.. his son, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, Marmion, and many nobles of high rank, with ten thousand men, were left dead upon the field of battle. A short distance beyond, on a steep bank overhanging the river, is Norham Castle, formerly a place of great strength and historical importance. It was here that Edward I. re ided when called as umpire to settle the dispute between Bruce and Baliol relative to the crown of Scotland. He met the Scottish nobility in an adjoining field, called Hollywell Haugh. Berwick- on- Tweed. Hotel, Red Lion. (See p. 166.) ROUTE No. 61. Edinburgh to Berwick-on- Tweed, via Dunbar and North Berwick (Sonth Coast). Time, 2 hrs. 15 min.; fare, 11s. 6d.= $2 874. Three miles from Edinburgh the Portobello junction is passed, the road to the right leading to Dalkeith, Melrose, etc. PortobeUo is an interesting sea-side town. Principal hotel, Marine. It is composed principally of pretty villas, has a handsome beach, and is a favorite summer residence of the citizens of Edinburgh. Passing Inveresk Station, near which is Musselburg, connected with the ancient fishing village of Fisherrow by three bridges, one of which is supposed to be Roman. Near by are the Links, an extensive plain, covered with greensward, where the Edinburgh races are run and the game of Golf is played. Three miles beyond the village of Prestonpans is reached. It was here that the famous battle of Prestonpans was fought between the English forces and the Pretender, Prince Charles Stuart, September 21,1745. It was decided in about fifteen minutes, the Pretender being the conqueror. The royal army lost five hundred men, the Pretender about fifty. Near the same place, on the banks of a small river called Pinkie, the battle of that name was fought in 1547, in which it is said the Scots lost ten thousand men, and the English, under the Protector Somerset, only two hundred! Some distance on the right is Carberry Hill, where Queen Mary surrendered to the rebel nobles, whence she was conveved to Lochleven. Two miles farther Sefon House is passed. This is a modern mansion; it stands on the site of the former magnificent palace of the Setons, for many centuries Earls of Wintoun or Lords of Seton. The fifth Lord Seton was a great friend and warm adherent of Mary Queen of Scots, who wished to promote him to an earldom, which he declined. The last earl was attainted on account of the rebellion of 1715, when every thing he possessed was sold; and later the famous castle, where Mary repaired, after the murder of Darnley, in company with Bothwell and other gay courtiers, has been removed, and nothing now remains but the church (never completed) to attest the greatness of the Setons. At the station Longnidry, a branch road (four and a half miles) leads to Haddington, the capital town of East Lothian, containing 4(00 inhabitants. Hotel, George. On the southern side of the town is a fine old Gothic ruin of a Franciscan church. This is one of the principal grain markets ia Scotland. About a mile to the south of Haddingto 1 8 YESTEa HOUSE. [SCOTLAND.] DUNBAR. is Lennox Love, a seat of Lord Blantyre, and, within sight, Colstou;n House, the seat of the Earl of Dalhousie. A portion of Haddington is called GiffordGate: this was the birthplace of John Knox. Five miles south of Gifford is Yester House, the seat of the Marquis of Tweeddale. The old castle stands on a small peninsula, and was called "Hobgoblin Hall" or "Bo Hall" in olden times, on account of a capacious cavern said to have been formed by magic art-probably built for supplying water to the castle from the adjoining stream, whose bed is above the level of the cavern: I would, Sir Knight, your longer stay Gave you that cavern to survey: Of lofty roof and ample Fize, Beneath the castle deep it lieo. To hew the living reck profound, The floor to pave, the al ch to round, There never toiled a mortal arm - It all was wrought by word and charm." Malarm ion. Drem Junction. A branch railway, five miles long, leads to North Berwick. Hotel, Royal. This town is finely situated on the Firth of Forth, and is a favorite resort dur. ing the summer for bathing, on account of its fine beach. The principal occupation of the inhabitants is herring-fishing. About three miles south of the town rises the conical hill called North Berwick Law. It is about 600 feet high, from the summit of which there is a magnificent view: "' And now when close at hand she saw Nornh Berwick's tower and lofty Law." An excursion should be made to Bass Rock, two miles from the shore (if the weather is pleasant). This most singular rock rises 400 feet out of the water. It is remarkable for the immense quantity of sea-fowl which inhabit it, especially solan geese, which are shot for their feathers. There was formerly a castle on the rock, where prisoners were confined during the wars with England. Boats may be hired at Canty Bay, one and a half miles from Berwick. Fare, six shillings for a party. The object of coming to North Berwick is mostly to visit the ruins cf the famous Castle of Tantallon the stronghold of the Douglas family. Every reader of Scott's "Marmion" must remember the celebratd parting in 164 terview between Douglas and Marmion in the court-yard of this castle" On the earl's cheek the flush of rage O'ercame the ashen huine of age; Fierce he broke forth, ' And darest thon, then, To beard the lion in his den? a Douglas in hid hall? And hop'st thou then unscathed to go? No, by St. Bride of Bothwell, No Up, warders, ho! let the portcullis fall.'" The best description of what the castle was is given in Sir Walter's own words: t Broad, massive, high, and stretching far, And held impregnable in war, On a projecting rock they rose, And round three sides the ocean flows; The fourth did battled walls inclose, And double mound and fosse. By narrow drawbridge, outworks strong, Through studded gates itn entrance long, To the main court they cross. It was a wide and stately square: Around were lodgings fit and fair Anfl to\ ers of various forn, Which on the court projected far And broke its lines quadrangular. Here was square keep, there turret high, Or pinnacle that sought the sky, Whence oft the warder could descry The gathering ocean storm." The piers of the old drawbridge are still to be seen, but the principal entrance has been broken up, and the northern walls appear as if they would soon tumble down. After Douglas, Earl of Angus, was banished in 1526, the castle held out against James V. The castle was eventually dc, stroyed by General Monk. At the commencement of the 18th century the Duke of Douglas sold the estate to Sir Hugh Dalrymple, in whose descendants' possession it still remains. Returning to Drem Junction, we pass the ruins of Dirleton Castle, near which is Athelstane, where Home, the author of " Douglas," was minister, and whence he was expelled for writing that work. Some distance to the right is Hailes Castle, where Queen Mary spent a portion of her honeymoon with Bothwell. Linton Station, near which is T.yningham House, the seat of the Earl of Haddington; and five miles beyond is Belhaven, from which Lord Belhaven takes his title; thence to Dunbar. Hotel, St. George, near the station. Population 3050. This town was created a royal burgh by David II., on account of the celebrated defense made by CASTLE OF DUNBAR. [SCOTLAND.] FAST CASTLE;i its castle when under the command of Black Agnes, Countess of March, against an English army under the Earl of Salisbury. The siege lasted six weeks, when the English were compelled to abandon the attempt to take the castle. The Castle of Dunbur is of great antiquity. It was bestowed as early as 1072 on Patrick, Earl of Northumberland, by Malcolm Canmore, and remained in possession of that family until 1434. Edward II. fled hither after his defeat at Bannockburn. In 1567 Queen Mary gave the keeping of this important fortress to Bothwell, and here she twice sought refuge, once after the murder of Rizzio, and again after her escape from Borthwick Castle, whence as a page she accompanied Bothwell. A few days later she surrendered at Carberry Hill, when this castle was destroyed by the order of the Regent Murray. On the west of the town are the remains of a monastery of Grayfriars. The only modern building of any importance is a church, erected 1820, on the site of the old collegiate church. It contains a monument to George Home, Earl of Dunbar. Near the town of Dunbar two important battles were fought, in both of which the Scots were defeated; viz., in 1296, when Edward I. defeated Baliol, and on the 3d of September, 1651, when Cromwell defeated General David Leslie, on which occasion ten thousand prisoners were taken by the English. This was a simple case of bad management on the part of Leslie, as Cromwell's army at one time was completely in the power of the Scottish forces. Passing Innerwick, where on the right may be seen the remains of Thornton and Innerwick Towers, both destroyed by the English in 1547, we see Broxbourne Hiouse, one of the seats of the Duke of Roxburgh, which Cromwell used as his head-quarters before the battle of Dunbar. Between Innerwick and Cockburnspath stands Dunglas hIouse, built on the site of an old castle which was originally the stronghold of the Earls of Home, and still gives one of its titles to that family. It was destroyed in 1640 by the explosion of the powder magazine, on which occasion the Earl of Haddington and numerous persons of distinction were killed. Five miles farther is Reston Junction, whence there is a direct road via Dunse to Melrose, Earlston, anu Newton St. Boswell. Three and a half miles in the direction of Dunse is Coldingham, so remarkable for the ruins of its priory, celebrated in border history. It is said to have been established by St. Abb at the commencement of the seventh century. St. Abb was a nun, Ebba, who fled from the Prince of Northumbria, who wished to marry her: having been miraculously saved by the rising of the tide, she founded a nunnery, and became its first abbess. In the ninth century the nunnery was attacked by the Danes, and the nuns, to save themselves from violation, cut off their noses and lips, when the Danes, in revenge, burned the nunnery, nuns and all. On its site King Edgar built the priory, which was once of great extent and magnificence, and became extremely rich and powerful. At the commencement of the present century, in taking down one of the corner towers, a skeleton of a woman was discovered, standing upright, supposed to be a nun of easy virtue: " And now the blind old abbot rose To speak the chapter's doom On those the wall was to inclose Alive within the tomb." About two miles northeast from Coldingham is the celebrated promontory called St. Abb's Head, one side of which is occupied as a light-house; on the other are the ruins of a monastery. An excursion should be made to Fast Castle, which is the Wolf's Crag of the ' Bride of Lammermoor:" " The roar of the sea had long announced their approach to the cliffs, on the summit of which, like the nest of some sea-eagle, the founder of the fortalice had perched his eyrie. The pale moon, which had hitherto been contending with flitting clouds, now shone out, and gave them a view of the solitary and naked tower, situated on a projecting cliff that beetled on the German Ocean. On three sides the rock was precipitous; on the fourth, which was that toward the land, it had been originally fenced by an artificial ditch and drawbridge, but the latter was broken down and ruinous, and the former had been in part filled up, so as to allow passage for a horseman into the narrow court-yard, encircled on two sides with low offices and 1i BERWICK-ON-TWEED. [SCOTLAND.] MAUCHLINE. stables, partly ruinous, and closed on the landward front by a low embattled wall, while the remaining side of the quadrangle was occupied by the tower itself, which, tall and narrow, and built of a grayish stone, stood glimmering in the moonlight, like the sheeted spectre of some huge giant. A wilder or more disconsolate dwelling it was perhaps difficult to conceive. The sombrous and heavy sound of the billows, successively dashing against the rocky beach, at a profound distance, was to the ear what the landscape was to the eye-a symbol of unvaried and monotonous melancholy, not unmingled with horror." This castle was at one time the stronghold of the Home family; afterward it came into the possession of Logan of Restalrig, who was implicated in the Gowrie conspiracy. After his death, his body was exhumed and tried for high-treason, and found guilty, when all his possessions were forfeited. Seven miles farther the ruins of Lamberton Kirk are passed. It was here, in 1503, that the marriage by proxy between James IV. and Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., took place, which was the origin of the union of the two kingdoms. The ceremony took place later at Holyrood, in Edinburgh. It was here that the toll-gate keeper performed the marriage ceremony for runaway couples, as at Gretna Green. Before arriving at Berwick, the railway passes over a magnificent structure built over the River Tweed from the castle hill to the Tweedmouth side. This viaduct, constructed by Mr. Robert Stephenson, is 2000 feet in length and 125 high; it has 28 arches, cost $600,000, and is one of the finest works of the kind in Great Britain. Berwick-on-Tweed. Hotels, Red Lion and King's Arms. Population 15,500. In former times this was a most important town, standing as it did on the frontier of both England and Scotland. It was ceded to England in 1482, but was made independent of both countries by Henry VIII. During the border tars it was continually taken and retaken by both England and Scotland.- Baliol was here crowned King of: Scotland by Edward I. It was besieged by Edward I. in 1296, when a great slaughter of its citizens took place at its capture; also by Edward III. in 18L2. 166 ~The walls are now a favorite walk of the citizens, but the flanks of the bastions are in ruins, and there is very little to induce the traveler to enter. Ten miles from Berwick is Holy Island, on which are the ruins of Lindisfarne Abbey, one of the earliest seats of Christianity in Great Britain. Railway to Edinburgh, 571 miles; to London, 342 miles. Time, 8 and 9 hours; fare, first class, ~3 = $o. ROUTE No. 62. Glasgow to Carlisle, via Kilmarnock and Dumfries. Distance, 125 miles; fare, 13s. 3d. -$3 31; time, 5 hrs. 30 min. To Dalry Junction. See Route No. 44. The first place of importance is Kilmarnock. Hotel, George. Population 23,000. This is one of the principal towns in Ayrshire, and is noted for its manufactures of carpets, shawls, and boots and shoes. It is also noted from the fact that the first poems published by Robert Burns were published in this town, and here resided his warmest and dearest friends. Railway to Troon, nine miles; to Ayr, fifteen miles. One mile from Kilmarnock is Dean Castle, the ancient seat of the Earls of Kilm.rnock, the last of whom was executed in 1745. At HurlfordlJunction an excursion should be made to Galston, near which is Loudon Castle, purchased in 1868 by the Marquis of Bute from the Marquis of Hastings for one and a half million of dollars. The grounds are charming. Six miles from here is Loudon Hill, where Bruce in 1307 defeated the Earl of Pembroke in a pitched battle. Seven and a half miles from Hurlford Junction, and Mauchline is reached. Ho. tel, London Arms. See Route No. 44. This town is situated about one mile from the River Ayr, and eleven miles from the town of Ayr, and is noted for being the spot where Burns spent the three most eventful years of his life. After the death AUCHINLECK JUNCTION. [SCOTLAND.] DRUMLANRIG CASTLE. of William Burns, his father, he removed with his brother, mother, and family to Mossgiel, a farm that he and his brother Gilbert had taken, situated about one mile north of Mauchline. Here he lived from the age of twenty-five to twenty-eight, and here he wrote his principal poems. The farm consisted of one hundred and twelve acres; but Burns only nominally worked upon it. It is said in Mauchline that he was " fond of his toddy," and was a " wicked de'il," and his reputation was getting very bad; in fact, he was on the point of leaving the country for the West Indies, when the hastily prepared Kilmarnock edition of his poems commenced to attract such attention that he was advised to go to Edinburgh and superintend another and completer edition. He did so, and burst forth on the literary world a star of the first magnitude. While in Mauchline he fell in love with Jean Armour, the daughter of a stone-mason; and after great difficulty, and much opposition on the part of her relatives, they were married in the old Mauchline Castle, the house where Burns's friend Gavin Hamilton lived. The house up the lane, beyond the Whiteford Arms Inn, is pointed out as Mrs. Burns's residence before her marriage. The church and church-yard are the principal objects of interest in the town. The church-yard is the scene of the " Holy Fair," and opposite is the cottage of "Posie Nansie," where the "Jolly Beggars" held forth. For a description of the Braes of Ballochmyle " (distant two miles from Mauchline), and other localities of Burns, see Route No. 44. Leaving Mauchline, the road passes over " Ayr Water " by a splendid viaduct 200 feet high, and of a single arch, and four and a half miles farther arrives at Auchinleck Junction, whence there are branch roads, on one side to Ayr (see Route No. 44), and on the other to Muirkirk, a distance of ten miles. There are some furnaces here belonging to the Bairds. Three miles from the junction, on the same road, is Lugar, near which, at A ird's Moss, is the scene of a battle between the Royalists and Covenanters. An obelisk has been erected to Richard Cameron, one of the leaders. Three miles from the station is Auchinleck House, the residence of the Boswell family. James Boswell (Johnson's conm panion and biographer) lived here. His father was Lord Auchinleck, a Judge of Sessions. Continuing on the route to Dumfries, in five minutes 011 Cummick Junction is passed, near which is Dumfries House, one of the seats of the Marquis of Bute. Fifteen miles farther is Sanquhar, formerly a place of considerable importance. In the 17th century the citizens, who were mostly Covenanters, renounced their allegiance to the king, declaring war against him. To the south of the town may be seen the ruins of an old castle. Two miles hence is Elliock, the birthplace of the "Admirable Crichton," so called on account of his universal accomplishments. Passing through a tunnel over four thousand feet long, and then over a magnificent viaduct, Carron Bridge is reached; two miles from which is Morton Castle, situated on the margin of a deep vale. It was founded at the commencement of the 11th century by De Morville, and was in the possession of Baliol when his property was confiscated. Bruce made a grant of it to the Regent Murray, who lived here during the reign of David II. It again passed into the possession of the Douglas family, whence they took the title of Earl of Morton. It is now the property of the Duke of Buccleuch. Three miles from Carron Bridge is Thornhill Station. (The town is about a mile from the station.) Hotel, Buccleuch Arms. A rather neat little place. Thornhill Station is also the station for Drumfanrig C(stie, the principal seat of the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry, which occupies a fine position about four miles from the station. The castle, which is built of red stone, was erected in 1685 by the first Duke of Queensberry, minister of James II. The flower-gardens extend in terraces to the banks of the Nith, one of the most lovely rivers in the south of Scotland. The park, which is of great extent and beauty, contains numerous charming walks, on one of which is Tibbers Castle, reduced to ruins by Bruce in 1311, and supposed to be of Roman origin. The monuments of the Queensberry family are contained in the church of Durisdeer. Three and a half miles from Thornhill is Closebur Station, near which is Closebur 167 DUMFRIES. [SCOTLAND.] SWEETHEART ABBEY. Castle, an ancient seat of the Kirkpatrick family. The Empress Eugenie is maternally descended from this family. Near the station is the Wallace School, one of the best in Scotland. Crossing the River Nith at Auldgirth Station by a handsome bridge, we arrive at Dalswinton, near Holyrood Station (where once stood an abbey, founded by Devorgilla Baliol). This was formerly the residence of the Millers, and Patrick Miller, as early as 1788, made the experiment of propelling a small steamer by steam on the adjoining lake. The steamer is still to be seen in the park. Three miles farther and we arrive at Dumfries. Hotels, Queensberry and King's Arms. This town is situated on the left bank of the River Nith, and contains 15,500 inhabitants. Its principal commerce is in cattle and sheep, with considerable manufactories. of woolens and tweeds. About the beginning of the 12th century it became a royal burgh. Nearly a century later Devorgilla erected a monastery for Franciscan friars, and built a bridge across ths Nith forthe purpose of endowing by tollae the religious institution. This bridge, which is considered the oldest in Scotland, consisted originally of thirteen arches, only six of which now remain. A new bridge was erected in 1795, and only foot- passengers now cross the old one. On the site of Grayfriars' Church formerly stood the castle erected by Edward I. It was in the church of the monastery that Red Comyn stood when murdered by Bruce. Comyn was brother-in-law of Bruce, also his rival for the crown of Scotland; but being detected in holding treasonable correspondence with the English king, Bruce and some friends hurried to Dumfries to demand an explanation. The meeting took place in the church before the high altar. Bruce accused him of falsehood and treachery, and high words having followed, Bruce stabbed him to the heart in a fit of passion, and hurrying from the church met his friend, the head of the Kirkpatricks, saying, "'I doubt I have slain Comyn." — "You doubt," said Kirkpatrick; "I'll make sure;" and went in and finished the bloody work. Dumfries is better known to-day by the English-speaking world as the place where the poet Robert Burns spent the last years 168 of his life than by any other reason. The house is shown in which he lived, after he gave up the farm at Ellisland, for eighteen months, when following his avocation of exciseman; it is situated at the bottom of Bank Street. Also the one where he spent the last three years of his life, and where he died, July 21, 1796, in Burns Street. His widow lived in the same dwelling for thirty years after his death, and survived him thirty - eight years. The house is kept as nearly as possible in the same state as when occupied by the poet. The monument erected to the memory of Burns is situated in the old church-yard of St. Michael's Church. It was built by public subscription, and consists of a Grecian temple, containing a sculpture by Turnarelli, representing the genius of Scotland investing Burns with her inspiring mantle. Burns was originally buried at the northern corner of the church-yard, but there not being sufficient room to erect the monument there, his body was removed nineteen years later to the present site of the mausoleum. There are several very interesting excursions in the vicinity of Dumfries. Lincluden Abbey, situated one mile and a half from Dumfries, close to Lincluden House. The abbey was originally a convent for Benedictine nuns, but owing to the immorality of its inmates it was suppressed by Archibald, Earl of Bothwell, and afterward became a college. The roofless chapel; whichexhibits some traces of beautifully carved work, contains a monument to Margaret, Countess of Douglas, daughter of Robert III. Eight miles south of Duinfries is situated New or Sweetheart A bbey, so called from its being the repository of the heart of John Baliol. The abbey was founded by his wife Devorgilla in 1275, for the monks of the Cistercian order. After lier husband's death, she carried his heart at all times in her bosom, and requested that it should be buried with her, which was done, and she was herself buried here. The tower of the abbey is almost perfect. The style is the Early English, butthe windows are pointed. The church was cruciform in shape; the main arches are nearly all perfect. On the opposite or east side ofthe river, nine miles from Dumfries, on the shore of the Solway Firth, is situated Caeraverock RUTHWELL STATION. [SCOTLAND.] CARSTAIRS JUNCTIOI' Castle, a most interesting and picturesque gling village, with a small roadside inn of structure. It was for a longtime the chief world-wide notoriety as a favorite temple seat of the Maxwells, Earls of Nithsdale, in of Hymen: owingto the difference hetween whose family it still remains. It was be- the marriage laws of Scotland and England, sieged and taken in 1300 by Edward I. in any one could here legally perform the person, and thirteen years afterward re- marriage ceremony. A tobacconist for taken by Bruce. It was destroyed by the many years performed the rites, and on Earl of Sussex in 1570, and restored the hundreds of occasions was closing his book following century. Its principal feature when the sound of the swift pursuers was is one of the round towers of the triangle, heard in the distance, just in time to be too called Murdoch's Tower, on account of late. Since 1856these marriages have been Murdoch, Duke of Albany, having been suppressed by Act of Parliament. confined in it previous to his execution at Carlisle. See "England." Stirling. Over the arch of the entrance gate is the crest of the Maxwells, with the motto, "I bid ye fair;" also the date of the last repairs. In Caerlaverock church-yard Sir Walter Scott erected a monument to Old Mortality. Eight miles from Dumfries we pass Ruthwell Station, two miles south of which, in the manse garden, is a famous sculptured cross, supposed to be as early as the 7th century, and considered the most impor- ROUTE No. 63. tant Runic production in Great Britain. In Edinburgh to Carlisle (direct), via Cale. the church-yard there is a tomb to a Mr. donian Railway. This route is not conYoung, who lived about the middle of the sidered so interesting as the "Waverley 16th century, and died leaving thirty-one Route " (Route No. 65, via Melrose, Selkirk, children-all by the same wife. and Hawick), there being no considerable About one mile to the west is Comlangan place on the line, but there are many of Castle, surrounded by an extensive forest, secondary importance. The distance is 101 formerly the residence of the Earls of Mans- miles; time by express, 2 hrs. 25 min.; orfield. dinary trains, 3 hrs. 5 min. and 4 hrs. 20 After passing Cummertrees, near which min.; fare, 16s. =$4. is Kinnaont House, one of the seats of the A few miles from Edinburgh, on the lMarquis of Queensberry, Annan is reached. right, Dabnahoy Park is reached. This is Hotel, Queensberry Arms. Population 3200. the seat of the Earl of Morton. Among The town is situated on the left hank of the curiosities of the mansion are the keys the River Annan, which empties into the of Lochleven Castle, found in the lake after Solway Firth just below the town. It was the escape of Queen Mary. created a royal burg by King Robert At the Kirknewton Junction is Calder Bruce, and ranks as one of the most an- House, the seat of Lord Torphichen, finely cient towns in Scotland. Hugh Clapper- situated on the banks of the Marieston ton, the celebrated African traveler, was a Water. A room is here shown where John native of this place. It was here that Ba- Knox first administered the Holy Comliol summoned the barons to meet him aft rmunion in the Protestant manner. er he had been crowned at Scone, when he Passing Carstairs Junction, supposed to was surprised by Douglas at the head of a have been a Roman station, Carstairs large cavalry force, and was obliged to fly House, a fine modern mansion, situated befor his life on a bare-backed horse and un- tween the staio and the River Clyde, is attended. visible. It containasome fie pictures by At the junction of the Dumfries and ancient and modern masters. At Symingthe Caledonian Railway on Sark River, the ton Junction a branch line diverges to Peeboundary-line between England and Scot- bles and Melrose; near it may be seen the land, is situatedretna Green,asmall strag- ruined tower of Lamingtoa, a part of thA VOL. I.-H 19 ABINGTON STATION. [SCOTLAND.] LOCKEmBY. possessions of the wife of Sir William Wallace, who married the heiress of Lamington. It was here that Robert Burns left the following epigram on a seat in the church, where the proceedings did not seem to take his fancy: C As canld a wind as ever blew; A caulder kirk. and in 't but few; As cauld a minister's e'er spakYe'll a' be het ere I come back." Passing Abington Station, situated at the junction of the Clyde and Glengonner, on the right may be seen the seat of Sir Edward Colebrook. This is considered an excellent locality for fishing. Gold mines were worked here about the middle of the 16th century. Three miles farther the village of Crawford is passed, close to which stands the ruins of Lindsay Tower, formerly the seat of the Earls of Crawford. Winding through the Lowther Hills, from which the Rivers Clyde, Tweed, and Annan take their rise, we pass near Beattock Station the ruins of Auchencass Castle, once the stronghold of the Regent Murray. Two miles from Beattock Station, by omnibus, is the dull but interesting town of Mofiat. Hotel, Annandale Arms. It is particularly noted for its mineral waters, and during the summer months a considerable number of persons resort here for the purpose of drinking them and making excursions in the vicinity, the air of the locality being considered healthy and bracing. The mineral spring is called Moffat's Well, and is situated on a gentle acclivity about one mile and a half from the town. The smell and taste of the water are in the highest degree disagreeable. The mountains in the vicinity are the highest in Scotland (Hartfell), to the peaks of many of them excursions can be made, and the walks and drives in the neighborhood are exceedingly interesting, one of which is to the De'il's Beef Tub, a semicircular hollow of great depth, where the River Annan takes it rise. Six miles from Moffat are the interesting ruins of Lochwood Tower, an ancient residence of the Johnstones of Annandale. It was built about the 14th century; but was destroyed in 1585 by the Maxwells, who with the Johnstones embroiled the peace of the country for many years, each party claiming the wardenship of the Western Marches. 170 One of the loveliest excursions is that to Loch Skene, St. Mary's Loch, and Yarrow by the " Gray Mare's Tail," and Craigie. burn, through the vale of Moffat's Water. The house of Craigieburn is alluded to in one of Burns's songs: '' Sweet fa's the eve on Craigieburn, And blithe awakes the morrow; But a' the pride o' spring's return Can yield me naught but sorrow." Loch Skene, from which issues the wa. terfall of the Gray Mare's Tail, is about one mile long and nearly one half wide. The cataract is one of the highest and finest in Scotland (200 feet). Sir Walter Scott gives a glowing description of both this and the lake in his second canto of " Marmion:" "'There eagles scream from isle to shore; Down all the rocks the torrents roar; O'er the black waves incessant driven, l)ark mists infect the summer heaven. Tthrough the rude barriers of the lake, Away its hurrying waters break, Faster and whiter dash and curl, Till down yon dark abyss they hurl. Rises the fog-smoke white as snow, Thunders the viewless stream below, Driving, as if condemned to lave Some demon's subterranean cave, Who, prison'd by enchanter's spell, Shakes the dark rock with groan and yell Where, deep, deep down, and far within, Toils with the rocks the roaring linn; Then issuing forth one foamy wave, And wheeling round the giant's grave, White as the snowy charger's tail, Drives down the pass of Moffatdale." A coach passes daily during the summer to Selkirk through the valley, past Thirstane House and Ettrick Ilouse,where James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, was born. Passing Wamphray and Nethercleugh Stations, Lockerby is reached. This place is noted for its sheep and cattle fairs, which are principally held in August. Near the town there is another ruined castle of the Johnstones. There is a branch road hence to Dumfries, fifteen miles distant. Travelers returning from Edinburgh, who have not visited Dumfries, should change cars here. Four miles from the station of Lockerby, near Lochmaden Station, was the birthplace (by some disputed) of Robert Bruce. The castle in which he was born was pulled down, and a larger one erected on a small peninsula east of Castle Loch; Nothing now remains hut a pile of rubbish. Ecclefechan Station, near which Carlyle CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. [SCOTLAND.] PEEBLES was born, and which is immortalized by Burns in his " Lass of Ecclefechan." Near this is a tower of Hoddam House, opposite which is the " Tower of Repentance," built by one of the ancestors of Lord Herries. Kirkpatrick is now reached, prettily situated on the banks of the Kirtle. A short distance from this point is the ruined church of Kirkconnell, the scene of the ballad, "Fair Helen of Kirkconnell Lee." Gretna Green, see Route No. 62 toCarlisle. ROUTE No. 64. Edinburgh to Melrose and Galashiels Junction, via Peebles. Time, 2 hrs. 40 llin.; fare, 6s. 8d. =- 92 70. Dalkeith, llawthornden, and Roslin are described in the excursions in the vicinity of Edinburgh, and Melrose in Route No. 60. If these places have been visited in the order given, and the excursion No. 60 made direct, there is not much to be seen in this route with the exception of Peebles. Three miles from Edinburgh, close by Niddrv Station, is seen the ruins of Craigmillar Castle, situated on an eminence, and surrounded by fine old trees. It is not known by whom it was originally built; hut being burned by the English after the battle of Pinkie in 1555, it was much enlarged at that time, and greatly surpassed the generality of Scottish castles of that period. The present ruins consist of a square tower in the centre, one in front, and two behind, with smaller ones at the corners. The outer court is defended by strong walls, then exterior walls and moat, a part of which may still be seen. It was much used as a royal residence, and was the scene of numerous historical incidents. Here John, Earl of Mar, brother of James III., was imprisoned in 1477, and bled to death, having torn off his bandages in a fit of delirium. James V. resided here during his minority, as did also Queen Mary several months after the murder of Rizzio, and here she was brought as a prisoner after the battle of Carberry. A small room of Mary's is shown, where Bothwell, Murray, and Lethington plotted the murder of Darnley. Since the Revolution the property has been in the possession of the Gilmour family. There is a small branch railway which leads to the village of Lasswade, an enterprising little place, prettily situated on the bank of the Esk River. It was a favorite residence of Sir Walter Scott. De Quincey, and the poet Drummond both lie buried in its church-yard. Three miles farther is Hawthornden Station,, described in Edinburgh and vicinity. Admittance daily, except Sunday and Thursday. Fee, one shilling. Roslin Station-see Edinburgh-is about one mile and a half from the chapel. Pennicuik, situated one mile from the station on the banks of the Esk. The principal paper-mill of Scotland is in this town, and deserves a visit. Pennicuik House, the seat of the Clerk family, is a handsome Grecian edifice, well worth a visit. It contains an excellent collection of paintings and numerous historical and Roman relics. The principal apartment is " Ossian's HIall," the ceiling being beautifully painted by Runciman. The scenery is beautiful, and the pleasure-grounds of the most ornamental character: conspicuous is an obelisk to the memory of Allan Ramsay. About three miles from Pennicuik is ArNwhall, described in Ramsay's drama. On the way to which is Habbie's How"l Gne far'er up the burn to Habbie's How, M herea' the sweets o' spring and summer grow; There 'tween twa birks, out ower a little linn, The water fa's and maks a aingin' din; A pool breast deep, beneath as clear as glnss, Ki-ses wi' easy whirls the bord'ring gras." Passing Eddlestone Station, where there are some ancient forts, and near which are the Milkeston Rings, the largest ancient camp in the country, we arrive at Peebles. Hotel, Tontine. This town is prettily situated on the banks of the Tweed, and contains 2100 inhabitants. It is divided into two parts by the Eddlestone River, con. nected by a bridge. It was an occasional residence of the kings of Scotland, and was the scene of the poem of James I,, " Pebles to the Play." 171 NIDPATH CASTLE. [SCOTLAND.] EILDON. HILLS. The principal object of interest in the ' Degenerate Douglas... town is the Chambers Institute, an old res- To level with the dit a noble horde, idence of the Queensberry family, restored A brotherhood of trees; s, eaving an ancient dome and towers like these, with much taste, and converted into a pub- Beggared and outraged." lic institution, containing a library of 10,000 volumes, galleries filled with casts The late earl, the new heir, immediately from the antique, a museum well stocked replanted the avenue and other portions with objects of interest. It contains a of the demense. large hall,with portraits of James I., Queen Passing Horsbury Castle, then Cardrona Victoria, and of the donor, Mr. William Station, in five minutes Innerleithen is Chambers, of Glenormeston, the publisher. reached. Hotel, Riddel's. The old Cross of Peebles, which formerly This is a small watering-place, prettily stood in High Street, has been removed to situated at the junction of the Tweed and the court of the Institute. The building Leithen Water, and a favorite resort of bears the following inscription: " This ed- anglers. In the immediate vicinity, fineifice, successively the property of the ly situated on the River Quair, is Traquair Cross Church; Hays, Lords Yester, Earls House, the seat of the Earl of Traquair. of Tweeddale; the Douglases, Earls of Close by is Pirn, the seat of the Horstwig March, and the fourth Duke of Queens- family, and Ashestiel, at one time the resiberry, was finally acquired by William dence of Sir Walter Scott, and there he Chambers; and for the purpose of social wrote "Marmion" and the "Lay of the improvement presented by him to his native Last Minstrel." town, 1857." Twelve miles farther Galashiels JuncMungo Park, the celebrated African tion is reached. traveler, was at one time a resident of Peebles, and practiced as a surgeon in High Street. The vale of Tweed is thickly studded with castles and fortresses, erected to prevent the marauding freebooters from the English border. One of the principal is Nidpath Castle, situated on a high rock projecting over the bank of the Tweed, about one mile from Peebles. It was at one time the chief residence of the Fraser family, one of the most powerful in Scotland, the last of whom, Sir Simon Fraser, ROUTE No. 65. was a great friend of Wallace, who with Edinburgh to Carlisle, via Melrose, NewComyn, in 1302, defeated on Roslin Moor ton St. Boswell's Junction, and Ha.wick, three divisions of the English army on the known as the "Waverley Route," on acsame day. The estates came by marriage count of its passing through the districts into possession of the Earls of Tweeddale, associated with the writings of Sir Walter or their ancestors. The second earl, who Scott. Time, express, 3 hrs. 15 min.; fare, declared for Charles II., held out longer 17s. =$4 25. here against Cromwell than any other The principal objects of interest on this stronghold of the Forth. It was afterward route are described as far as Newton St. purchased by the Duke of Queensberry, Boswell's Junction in Route No. 60. in whose family it remained until the The village of Newton is prettily sit. death of the last duke, or " Old Q.," as he uated at the foot of the Eildon Hills. Acwas politely called, in 1810. This noble- cording to tradition, these three hills were man, to spite the Earl of Wemyss, his heir formerly in one, but were changed in a of entail, had all the beautiful woods cut single night by his satanic majesty at the down, among which was a magnificent av- request of the wizard Michael Scott. Noenue of old trees by which the castle was tice on a commanding height Eilden Hall, pproached, which action called down the one of the Duke of Buccleuch's numerous indignation of the poet Wordsworth: seats. 172 ; AWICK. [SCOTLAND.] HERMITAGE CASTLE. Close by is the village of Lessuden: one of the principal sheep markets in the south of Scotland was held here. About two miles from St. Boswell's, beautifully situated on the banks of the river, is Mertoun House, the seat of Lord Polwarth. Thirteen miles farther, and the prosperous manufacturing town of Hawick is reached. Hotels, Tower and Crown. This is the principal town in Roxburghshire, and contains 11,500 inhabitants. It is situated at the junction of the Slitterick and Teviot Rivers. At the Moat-hill, Sir Alexander Ramsay, while performing his duties as Sheriff of Teviotdale, was seized by the " Dark Knight of Liddesdale" (Sir William Douglas), and confined in the dungeon of Hermitage Castle, and starved to death. Two miles from Hawick, on the right bank of the Teviot, stands the ancient fortress of Goldielands, one of the best preserved fortresses of the border. It belonged to the chieftains of the clan Scott, the last of which was hanged over his own gateway for " March" treason. About two miles from Hawick is Branksome Tower, the scene of the " Lay of the Last Minstrel:" " Nine-and-twenty knights of fame Hung their shields in Branksome Hall; Nine-and-twenty squires of name Brought them their steeds to bower from stall; Nine-and-twenty yeomen tall Waited duteous on them all: They were all knights of mettle true, Kinsmen to the bold Buccleuch." This was the residence of the Barons of Buccleuch during the 15th and 16th centuries. It is now occupied by the duke's chamberlain. Branksome was noted in ancient times for pretty girls" As I came in by Teviot's side, And by'the braes o' Branksome, There first I saw my blooming brideYoung, smiling, sweet, and handsome." The oldest portion of the building is the square tower; the rest dates from the 16th century. Five miles from Branksome Tower is the Carlenrig church-yard, where rest the remains of the celebrated Johnnie Armstrong, of border notoriety. He was brother to the chief of the clan Armstrong "That bold chief who Henry's power defied, True to his country, as a traitor died. Yon mouldering cairns by ancient hunters placed, Where blends the meadow with the marshy waste, Mark where the gallant warriors lie." Armstrong was a kind of freebooter, who levied contributions on all English traders; he never, under any pretext, interfered with a " Scottishman." He generally traveled with twenty-four horsemen, well mounted, and made his raids as far as Newcastle. He was enticed by James V. to his camp at Carlenrig, and there with all of his followers hanged on trees. It is said that the trees on which Johnnie and his men were hanged withered away. From Hawick to Steel Road Station is sixteen miles; three miles and a half from which is situated Hermitage Castle, a fine old baronial stronghold of the Douglases, Lords of Liddesdale. It was originally the seat of the Lords of Soulis, of royal descent, the last of whom entered into a conspiracy against Robert Bruce, which was the cause of the downfall of the family. The building was constructed in the thirteenth century by Comyn, Earl of Monteith. One of his family-Lord Soulis, the "Wizard"was suspected of witchcraft" Lord Soulis he sat in Hermitage Castle, And beside him old Redcap sly." He was most cruel and oppressive to his tenants and harassing to his neighbors, so much so that frequent complaints were made by his vassals to the Scottish king, who, becoming irritated on the subject, one day in response he answered: "Boil him, if you please, but let me hear no more of him;" and, taking the king at his word, his vassals assembled and conveyed the unfortunate lord to a place called Nine Stane Rig, a declivity which descends to the Hermitage Water, and derives its name from a druidical circle of nine stones (five only now existing); on two of them they laid an iron bar on which the caldron was hung, and there they fulfilled the king's order to the letter. Hermitage was taken by the English in the reign of David, and retaken by Sir William Douglas, the Black Knight of Liddesdale mentioned above; and here that cruel knight confined Sir Alexander Ramsay, of Dalhousie, in a vault below a gran173 DtALBEATTIE. [SCOTLAND.] DUNDRENNAN. ary for the purpose of starving him to death it is said he lived many days on grains of wheat that had fallen through the chinks of the floor. It was in riding to this castle to see Bothwell that Queen Mary caught a cold that laid her up with a fever. Fifteen miles from Steel Road Station is Ridding's Junction Station, whence there is a branch line to Langholm and Lskdale. Four miles farther the Gretna, Annan, and Dumfries Road branches off to the right; and passing Lineside Station, ten miles brings us to Carlisle. See England (Index). ROUTE No. 66. Dumfries to Stranraer and Portpatrick. Although the distance is only 80. miles, on account of the single track the time occupied by this route is 4 hrs. 30 min.; fare, 14s. =$3 50 (changeable). The first place of any importance on the route is Dalbeattie, situated in the valley of the Urr. It contains a population of 2000, which is principally employed in the celebrated granite-quarries and paper-mills. All the granite for the Thames embankment was procured from Dalbeattie. Six miles farther we arrive at Castle Douglas. Hotel, Douglas Arms. This neatly built town is situated near the margin of Loch Carlingwark, a very pretty lake, studded with islands. About one mile distant, on the Island of Dee, is Threave Castle, one of the old strongholds of the Douglases. The remains consist of a large square tower of great strength, surrounded by a wall, and three round towers. Over the gateway notice a projecting block of granite, called "the hanging stone," of which the Douglases were wont to boast that "the hanging stone of Threave never wanted its tassel!" Interesting object to daily visitors! Threave Castle has been the scene of many a bloody tragedy; among the number was the murder of Sir Patrick McLellan. The Earl of Douglas bribed Sir Patrick's ward174 er with the promise of a ladleful of gold; and when the traitor demanded payment, the earl caused the gold to be melted and poured down his throat. A little farther to the south is Gelsten Castle, a more modern structure, belonging to the Douglas family. An excursion should be made from Castle Douglas to Kirkcudbright. A railway has been opened, and the time occupied is thirty minutes. [Kirkcudbrigkt, so called from " Kirk of Cuthbert," contains a population of 2500. It is well built on the River Dee, and on the principal street may be seen the ruins of Castle MlcLellan, formerly Lords of Kirkcudbright. About one mile distant is St. Mary's Isle, the seat of the Earls of Selkirk. Here that bold and intrepid mariner, Paul Jones, made a descent for the purpose of carrying off the earl, but fortunately for him he was absent at the time. Paul Jones was a Scotchman, but, becoming disgusted with the cruelties committed by the English on the Anglo-American prisoners, he took sides with the Americans, and during the War for Independence made many successful raids on the coast of England. In 1778, at Whitehaven, in Cumberland, in face of the fort, he (etered the harbor and carried off reveral merchant vessels; and in 1779, with a single vessel, he forced two English frigates to surrender. He visited France after this heroic combat, and was received with immense enthusiasm. le died in Paris in 1792. An excursion should be made to Dundrennan A bbey, about six miles from Kirkcudbright. The abbey is situated in a very pretty position at the head of a small valley near the sea. The ruins, as they now stand, have been repaired at government expense; but the repairs came too late, as nearly every part of the abbey has disappeared. The north and south wallr of the chancel and transepts, with the entrance to the chapter-house, still exist. In the north transept there is a monument to Alan, Lord of Galloway, said to be a grandson of the founder. Dundrennan was the last place in which Queen Mary slept in Scotland previous to putting her life into the hands of Elizabeth in 1568, and the spot where she embarked is pointed out, and called Port Mary. GATEIHOCSE. [SCOTLAND.]. PORTPATRICK.. There is a coach daily to Gatehouse, a prettily situated town, but very dull, the only interesting object of attraction being the mansion of Cally, the seat of Mr. Murray Stewart. It is built of granite, and the gardens and grounds are of exceeding beauty.] Continuing our route from Castle Douglas, we pass New Galloway Station, distant from the town five miles. On the way thither Kenmure Castle is passed. This is a seat of the Gordon family. The title of Kenmure was created by Charles I., but was forfeited in 1716, the last possessor having been executed for high-treason. The town is pleasantly situated on the River Ken, and contains 4500 inhabitants. Passing Palnure Station, seventeen miles from New Galloway, and continuing up the valley of the Cree four miles, Newton Stewart Station is reached. This is a town of 2500 inhabitants, originally the residence of the Bishops of Galloway. It contains a fine educational establishment, called the Evart Institute, founded by a gentleman of that name. There is a fine excursion from this town to a lovely little lake called Loch Trool. It is nearly surrounded by mountains, some of them rising to a height of three thousand feet. It is quite narrow, and about two miles long. The English force at one time was near being routed by Bruce's men rolling down large stones from the mountains. Lord Galloway has a very pretty residence on the lake. [There is an interesting excursion from Newton Stewart by coach to Whithorn, twenty-one miles distant, passing Wigtown, a very pretty town, a short distance west of which is the village of Bladenoch, celebrated throughout Scotland for its whisky. Across the river are the ruins of Baldoon, a seat of the Dunbars. Here occurred the circumstances upon which the "Bride of Lammermoor" is founded. The bridegroom was David Dundas, and the bride the daughter of Lord Stair. Soon after their marriage she stabbed her husband, while laboring under the malady that killed her. Continuing through the village of Kirkinner and Garlieston, whence a steamer sails weekly to Liverpool, and where the Earl of Galloway has a fine seat, Whit. horn is reached. This town, which contains 1600 inhabitants, is well known from the fact that the first Christian church in Scotland was here founded by St. Ninian, and dedicated to St. Martin of Tours. It is related by Bede that the first tribes of North Britain who turned from their idols to worship the true God owed their conversion to the bishop Ninian. He here built a church in the fourth century, to which kings and queens, churchmen and warriors, made pilgrimages. James IV. of Scotland often made a visit to the shrine of St. Ninian twice a year, traveling the whole distance from Edinburgh on foot. Nothing remains of the church, and very little of the priory, built in the twelfth century. What little there is is in the Early English style. Two miles from the town there is a cave, called St. Ninian's, on the rocky wall of which a cross is carved.] Between Newton Stewart there is nothing of importance until Stranraer is reached, with the exception of Castle Kennedy, which had better be visited from Stranraer. Hotels, King'sArsns and George. This sea-port town contains 6000 inhabitants. It is situated at the head of Loch Ryan, but contains nothing of importance to the traveler. There are numerous gentlemen's seats in the vicinity which would be interesting to visit. Three miles from the town are the ruins of Castle Kennedy, erected in the sixteenth century. This castle was formerly the seat of the powerful Earls of Cassilis, but is now the property of the Earl of Stair. The earl's present seat is about a mile distant. It was finished in 1871, and is called Inch Castle,. It is erected on an eminence commanding a fine view of two lakes and the old Castle Kennedy. The grounds of Inch Castle and Castle Kennedy are open to the public on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Seven miles and a half west of Stranraer is Portpatrick, the nearest point to the Irish coast. Nearly one million of dollars were spent on its harbor for the purpose of a mail-service to Donaghadee, but it has been discontinued. Half a mile from Portpatrick are the ruins of the Castle of Dunskey. 175 BANOCKBIURN. [SCOTLAND.] ST. NINIANss ROUTE No. 67. Edinburgh to Stirling (by railway direct), via the battlefield of B(nnockburn, or via Queensfirry and Dunfermline. Time, 1 hr. 20 min.; fare, 6s.= $1 50. For description of Linlithgow and Falkirk, see Route No. 58. At Larbert the line for Glasgow is left, and the road passes Kinaird, the residence of the great Abyssinian traveler (Bruce), who, after having passed through all the dangers of travel in the interior of Africa, met his death by falling down while handing a lady to her carriage. Passing through the remains of Torwood forest, where Sir William Wallace escaped from his enemies and found shelter in a tree, we arrive at Bannockbun, noted for the famous battle fought in its neighborhood. This important event took place June 24, 1314. The English army was composed of 100,000 men, under Edward II., and the Scottish army of 30,000, commanded by King Robert the Bruce. Edward Bruce commanded the right wing, Randolph, Earl of Moray, the left, and the centre was led by Sir James Douglas and Walter Stewart, the Bruce's son-in-law, while King Robert himself commanded the reserves. The spot where his royal standard was pitched was called the Borestone: a portion of this stone, in which the standard was stuck, surrounded by a frame-work of iron to protect it from that pest of travelers, relic-hunters, who in a century would leave nothing to be seen by their descendants, may still be seen on an eminence called "Brocks Brae," southwest of St. Ninians. The English army at the time were advancing to the relief of Stirling Castle, which Bruce was besieging; consequently he had choice of ground, and well did he use it. The Scottish army extended in a northeasterly direction from the Bannock Brook to the village of St. Ninians. The ground was so rugged and broken that his right was perfectly protected. His left was protected by digging pits across the small peninsula between the brook and Milton Bog. These pits were covered with brushwood and green sods. Stakes also were driven in, and spikes scattered around to lame the horses. The flanks be176 ing thus so well protected by defenses artificial and natural, the front was easily guarded, it being so narrow and impeded that the superior force of the English was of little avail. In the rear of the Scottish army there was a hill, behind which Bruce had stationed his baggage, under the charge of " gillies," or servants, and camp-followers.- At the moment the English line was wavering, the sudden appearance of these followers (furnished with such weapons as they could most easily find) on the summit of the hill had the aspect of a new army fresh on the field. Confusion immediately spread in the English ranks, and, as if seized with a panic, they fled in every direction. The loss of the English, in addition to their prisoners, was over 10,000 men, that of the Scots 4000. About a mile from the field of battle the Earl of Gloucester, nephew of King Edward, made a stand, and fell gallantly at the head of his own military tenants in trying to stop the flight. The hill on which the camp followers appeared has since been called "uGillies Hill." The village of St. Ninians, to which Bruce's left wing extended, was occupied by the troops of the Pretender in 1745. The church was used as a powder-magazine, and was blown up. This locality (some three miles to the west) is also celebrated for the battle of Sauchieburn, at which James HI. was defeated and slain. The nobles of Scotland, becoming dissatisfied with the government of the king, rose in rebellion, and drew the young Prince James, afterward James IV., into the plot. The king gave them battle, and was defeated, the numberagainst him being much superior. The king, flying from the field, was thrown from his horse, which became frightened at a woman with a water-pitcher; he was carried into Beaton's Mill, close to the village of Milton, in a state of unconsciousness. On recovering he called for a priest, when one of his pursuers, who had just entered, exclaimed, "I am a priest," and stabbed him to the heart. His son, James IV., always felt such deep remorse for his conduct that it is said, to do penance for his act, he wore a heavy iron belt, adding a few ounces to its weight every year as long as he lived. DI) UNFERMLINR. [SCOTLAND,] FALKLAND. The prince was but fifteen years of age when he joined in the plot against his father. Stirling, see Route No. 51. ROUTE No. 68. Edinburgh to Dundee and St. Andrews, via Dunfermline. The distance to Dunfermline had better be made by carriage or coach, which leaves Edinburgh three times each day to South Queensferry. To North Queensferry,across the Firth of Forth, two miles, steamers nearly every hour, thence to Dunfermline, six and a half miles. Leaving Edinburgh from Princes Street, and passing over the favorite walk of the citizens, we pass Cragleith Quarry, from which all the building material of Edinburgh is procured. Four miles from Edinburgh Barnton House is passed and the river Almond crossed, the banks of which are studded with beautiful residences. The road now passes along the grounds of Dalmeny Pca'k, the seat of the Earl of Rosebery, near which stands Barnbougle Castle, the ancient seat of the Moubray family. Crossing the Forth from South to North Queensferry (so called from Margaret, wife of Malcolm Kenmore), near the station is Hopetoun House, the beautiful mansion of the Earl of Hopetoun: the grounds and gardens are of great extent, and are laid out with exquisite taste. The mansion contains some fine paintings, but it is not shown; the grounds are open to the public. In the vicinity is Abercorn Castle, once a seat of the Douglases. Passing Inverkeithing, a small place of no importance, and over a three-mile road, and Dutfermline is reached. Hotels, New and Royal. This interesting town,in ancient times the residence of the Scottish kings, contains 16,000 inhabitants, who are prinVol. I.-H H cipally devoted to the manufacture of linen. The chief object of interest is the Abbey, founded by Malcolm III. in 1075. Here the illustrious King Robert the Bruce was interred in 1329, directly in front of the high altar. Eight kings, five queens, six princes, and two princesses of Scotland repose within its walls. Besides the albbey, there are other antiquities of interest at Dunfermline-the ruins of the palace in which David II., son of Robert the Bruce, was born. Richard II. of England burned it in 1385. It was again restored, and Mary Queen of Scots lived here in 1561. The palace was also the birthplaceofCharles I. and of his sister Elizabeth, afterward Queen of Bohemia. Dunfermline Abbey succeeded Iona as the burying-place of the monarchs of Scotland, Macbeth being the last buried in that distant isle. Only a portion of the Tower of Malcolm Kenmore remains. standing: in it was born Maude, Malcolm Kenmore's daughter, wife of Henry I. of England, whose body was interred in Westminster Abbey. Two miles from Dunfermline is Broomhall, the seat of the Earl of Elgin. It contains numerous valuable paintings and historical relics; among which is the bed on which Charles I. was born, and the sword and helmet of Robert the Bruce. Taking the railway at Stirling, and passing Thornton Junction,where a line branches off to Leven, we first pass Falkland Road Station, which is three miles from Falkland, formerly a residence of the kings of Scotland. It contains a palace, the principal part of which was constructed by James V., although the original castle was erected by a Macduff, Earl of Fife, a descendant of whom (Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany), here starved to death his nephew the Duke of Rothesay, heir to the crown. His life was for some time sustained by a wet-nurse, who conveyed milk from her breast through a reed; she was, however, discovered and put to death. The palace, although small, is particularly beautiful in its style of architecture. At Ladybank Junction there is a branch line to Kinross, Loch Leven; the main live continues on to Perth, and the St. Andrews and Dundee line, passing through a finely wooded country, arrives at Cupar, the coun-. ty town of Fife, containing 5100 inhabit. 177 LEUCHAIR JUNCTION. [SCOTLAND.] ROSSIE PRIORY. ants. Hotel, Royal. Although an ancient town, there is nothing of importance to be seen: the ruins of its ancient castle have been torn down, and on its site the Madras Academy built. A short distance from the town there is an obelisk erected to the memory of the Earl of Hopetoun. Passing Dairsie, near which Dairsie Castle stands on a height on the banks of the River Eden,we arrive at Leuchars Junction, where the line branches off to St. Andrews. The village of Leuchars possesses some exquisite remains of a Romanesque church belonging to the 12th century. Near the village is Earl Hall, an ancient residence of the Bruce family. It consists simply of a square tower, and dates from the 16th century. Five miles from the junction, St. Andrews is reached. This town, which contains 6400 inhabitants, is particularly interesting from:its historical associations, and remnants of ancient buildings which it possesses; it is also one of the most agreeable and healthy residences on the eastern coast. The origin of St. Andrews, originally called Muckross, is unknown; it was formerly the seat of the primate of Scotland, and was a place of great importance. The town abounds in curious houses and antique monuments. On the west stands an antique portal unimpaired, and on the east of the town is the Cathedral. This building was founded in 1159 by Bishop Arnold, but not completed until 1318. It was 350 feet in length and 65 in breadth. It was pulled down by the mob, excited against idolatry by a sermon of John Knox, the Reformer. Near the cathedral are the chapel and tower of St. Regulus; the former in ruins, the latter entire. The tower is 108 feet in height, and commands a delightful view. The castle of St. Andrew stands on the northeast of the city, overlooking the sea, and is a very picturesque ruin; it was demolished in 1547. James III. was born here. St. Leonard's College was founded at the commencement of the 16th century; it contains some interesting monuments. The Madras College is a fine modern structureerected in 18a. It is ajuvenile es-.tablishment, and averages nearly one thousand pupils. Opposite this is an ancient 178 church founded by Bishop Wishart in the 13th century. Returning to Leuchars Junction.the road continues on to Dundee, crossing the great Tay Railway bridge, one of the most magnificent undertakings in Europe. Instead of crossing by ferry-boat as in former times, the North British Railway Company have built a bridge over the Firth of Tay, here two miles wide. The bridge rests on eightyfive piers, some of which are two hundred and forty-five feet apart: the cost was $1,750,000. In the middle it is 130 feet above high-water mark. It was opened for traffic the 30th of May, 1878. A horrible accident occurred here on the evening of December 28th, 1879. In the midst of a fearful storm the bridge gave way while an express train was crossing, and 100 souls were engulfed nearly two hundred feet below. Dundee, see Route No. 69. ROUTE No. 69. Perth to Montrose, via Dundee and Arbroath. Fare, 9s. $2 25. For description of Perth, see Route No.47. Railway to Dundee in one hour. The distance is diversified by numerous beautiful countryseats. Three miles from Perth is Kinfauns Castle, the seat of Lord Grey. On the opposite bank of the Tay are the ruins of Elcho Castle, the property of the Earl of Wemyss. Errol Park, an elegant modern mansion, once the seat of the Earls of Errol, is situated in the midst of beautiful grounds. On the left is the Castle of 'ingask, the, seat of the Threipland family, which contains numerous relics of the Stuarts, whose cause it warmly advocated both in 1715 and 1745. Some distance to the north may be seen the celebrated Dunsinane Hill, the site of the castle mentioned in Macbeth. It overlooks the "Birnam Wood " in the vicinity of Dunkeld. Passing Inchture Station, some distance north of which is Rossie Priory, the seat of Lord Kinnaird, a modern house, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country, and containing a collection of ancient and modern paintings. A few miles farther east is Castle Hunt. D iUDEB. [SCOTLAND.] FORFAR. ly, erected by Patrick, first Earl of Kinghorn-the same who built Glamis Castle. While in the Glamis family it was called Castle Lyon. Passing Longf/organ and Inveryowrie, and the seats of Lord Grey and the Earl of Camperdown, the town of Dundee is reached. The city of Dundee is finely situated on the north side of the Firth of Tay, and contains 118.974 inhabitants (census of 1871). It is the third city in Scotland in point of population and commercial wealth. Principal Hotels, Royal, Tower, and British. Dundee is a place of great antiquity, of which there are numerous proofs, and ofconsiderable historic note in the history of Scotland. It was taken by the English in 1296, and retaken by Sir William Wallace in 1297; taken again by Edward I., and recaptured by Sir Edward Bruce. It was besieged and burned by the Marquis of Montrose, and again by General Monk, one of Cromwell's generals, in 1651, who, when he entered it, mercilessly butchered 200 women and children, and 800 of the inhabitants, including the governor, Lumsden. Many of the Royalists of great wealth had fled with their property to this strong city, and the plunder it is said was immense. Dundee is one of the principal seats of linen manufacture in the kingdom, 25,000 of its inhabitants being occupied in that business; but its greatest specialty is the manufacture of Jute carpeting. This is a substance something resembling hemp, but is the fibre of the jute, an Indian plant, and is made into coarse carpets, mats, sacking, and various objects. The Docks,Victoria, King William, Grey, and Camperdown, are the principal objects of interest in the city. Opposite the end of Union Street rises the Old Steeple of St. Mary's Church, 156 feet high, and one o,,he most interesting towers in Scotland. The church was erected in the 14th century by David, Earl of Huntingdon, after his return from the Holy Wars. The tower was much damaged by Monk, but it has since been repaired. The ascent of Dundee Law, a hill in the vicinity of the town, over 500 feet high, should be made to obtain a splendid view of the locality. A visit should be paid to the Messrs. Baxter's Spinning-mills, the largest in the city; they are exceedingly interesting. There are two public parks, of no special interest-one of which was the gift of Sir David Baxter, a citizen of Dundee. Steamers run daily to Perth, a most in' teresting means of communication; also to Edinburgh, Newcastle, and London. Railway to Edinburgh, Perth, and Stirling. Passing Broughty Ferry Junction, to the right of which stand the ruins of Broughty Castle, three miles from Arbroath, Panmure, the seat of the Earl of Dalhousie, is seen on the right. Arbroath. Hotels, Albion and White Hart. This is a well-built commercial sea-port, containing 20,000 inhabitants. Its principal productions are coarse linen canvas and sail-cloth. During the reign of King John a charter was given to its monastery and citizens, giving the peculiar right to trade with every part of England, London excepted,without taxation. In 1320 the Scottish nooilitv met here and drew up a remonstrance addressed to the Pope against the claims made by Edward II. on the Scottish sovereignty. The Abbey of Arbroatfi, or Aberbrothock, was founded by William the Lion in 1178, and dedicated to Thomas A Becket: the remains are few and very fragmentary, as the municipal authorities were formerly in the habit of selling the stones for building material. The grave of William the Lion is pointed out before the high altar. The Chapter-house is the most perfect part, and contains a portion of a monument with the feet of a figure resting on a lion. The Abbots of Arbroath were custodians of the sacred banner of St.Colomba. On the route to Montrose, Forfar can be visited by diverging a little to the left at Guthrie Junction. The coast route to Montrose, distant 16 miles, can be made by carriage, although there is nothing of importance to be seen. Forfar, seven miles from the junction, is the county town and a place of great antiquity, containing 12,600 inhabitants. Hotel, County Arms. It once possessed a castle, the residence of Malcolm Canmore. The town was noted in former times for the number of old women executed as witches. Salem was nothing to it. In the county hall may be seen an instrument called "The Witches' Bridle," which was placed on the heads of the miserable victims to prevent their cries being heard.. A hollow to the 179 BR;ECHIt. [SCOTLAND.] DubOTTAR/. north of the town is called " The Witches' Howe." To the east of the town are the ruins of the Priory of Restennet. Six miles by rail, on the road toward Perth, is Glamis Castle, the seat of the Earl of Strathmore. Admission to visitors on Fridays (see Route No. 47). Sixteen miles from Forfar is the Bridge of Dun Station and Junction, whence there is a road to Brechin. Hotel, Commercial. This flourishing town, situated on the hanks of the South Esk, contains 8000 inhabitants. In former times it possessed an Abbey of Culdees. On the edge of a bank descending to the river may be seen all that remains of its ancient church. It has been modernized and destroyed. Adjoining the church is the Round Tower, 85 feet high, with an octagonal spire 25 feet more, displaying a model of symmetry and elegance. Brechin Castle, the ancient seat of the Maule family, stands on a precipitous rock in the vicinity of the town. It underwent a siege during the invasion of Edward I. in 1303, and only surrendered when its brave governor, Sir Thomas Maule, was killed. It is still in the possession of the Manle family, the Earl of Dalhousie being the head. At Dubton Junction, a small branch road leads to Montrose, an interesting town, containing 14,584 inhabitants. Hotels, Star and White Horse. It was here that Sir William Wallace landed when coming from France to raise his standard in defense of his country in 1303. It was here also that the Chevalier St. George embarked for France in 1715, and Montrose was also the head-quarters of the Royalists in 1745. It was the birthplace of the Marquis of Montrose, who was born in 1612; it was also the birthplace of Sir Robert Peel and Joseph Hume, whose statues may be seen in High Street. The principal public buildings are the Town-Hall and the parish and Episcopal churches. The South Esk is here crossed by a fine suspension bridge. There is a small branch railway from Montrose to Bervie, on the shore road to BSonehaven, which is distant ten miles. Bervie was made a royal burgh by David IV., and was the birthplace of Coutts the banker. Between Montrose and Aberdeen is situated the town of Sonehaven. Hotel, Commerc ial. S$ome three miles from the town, on an 1* isolated rock may be seen the ruins of the Castle of Dunnottar, the ancient seat of the Keiths. It is separated from the land by a deep chasm, approached only by a path winding around the rock, which in former days rendered it almost impregnable. It was taken, however, from the English in 1296 by Sir William Wallace. It was again captured by Edward III. in 1336, although at this period it was simply a rock with a church built on the summit. The castle was built by Sir William Keith toward the close of the 14th century. During the wars of the Commonwealth the Scottish regalia were kept here; the garrison, reduced by famine, were obliged to surrender; the regalia, however, had previously been carried off by Mrs. Granger, wife of the minister of the parish. It was in the church-yard of Dunnottar that Sir Walter Scott met " Old Mortality " (Peter Patterson). Dunnottar during the reign of Charles II. was used as a prison for confining the Covenanters. ROUTE No. 70, A NEW AND MOST INTERESTING ROUTE.. From Glasgow or Oban to Sound of Mull, Syke, Gairloch, Auchnasheen, and Inverness, returning through the Caledonian Canal to Oban. Glasgow to Oban, see Route No. 39. A swift steamerleaves Oban on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays during the summer months at 7 A.M., arriving at Portree (Isle of Skye) at 5 P.M., and Gairloch at 7 P.M., where passengers remain for the night, and proceed the following morning by coach to Auchnasheen, thence by train to Inverness. The same steamer returns from Gairloch the following morning at 7 A.M., calling at Portree, and arriving at Oban at 7.30 P.M. Fare, from Oban to Portree, 20s. -$5; from Oban to Gairloch, 25s. =$6 25; Oban to Portree, and Inverness to Oban, via Caledonian Canal, 32s. GAIRLOCH. G[SCOTLAND.] LOCuH AVAId. 6d. =$8 12~; and Oban to Gairloch, and Inverness to Oban, 37s. 6d. =$9 37A. The route from Glasgow to Oban is described in Route No. 39. From Oban to Gairloch, see Route No. 57. Gairloch, handsomely situated at the head of an inlet, contains a fine hotel, recently built, a pier at which the steamers from Portree and Glasgow touch, and is becoming widely known as the terminus of one of the most interesting drives (that to Auchnasheen) in the Highlands of Scotland. A coach leaves daily during the season for Auchnasheen, or the hotel will furnish cars or wagonettes. Near to the village is Flowerdale, the residence of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, surrounded by extensive plantations and rocky heights, which are in summer up to their summits clothed in green. Sir Kenneth is doing much in opening up his very grand and beautiful district to the foreign tourist, as he is owner of nearly the whole of the country surrounding Loch Maree,renowned for the savage grandeur of its scenery. This lake is eighteen miles in length, and averages two in width; the road to Auchnasheen runs along the southern bank, although there is a road on the northern side. The beauty of the lake is much increased by a large cluster of islands near the centre, on one of which there is an ancient chapel surrounded by a graveyard; the chapel was founded by the Culdee St. Maree, although some attribute it to the Gaelic name of the Virgin Mary. On the same small island is a well, the waters of which are said to be noted for the cure of insanity. At Slathdale, seven miles from Gairloch, the lake is at its widest) and from this point to Kinloch Ewe the scenery is most grand. In the immediate vicinity are the mountains of Ben Sleoch and Ben Each-the latter a magnificent object of white quartz, the former rising in almost a straight line from the water's edge to the height of 4000 feet. Guides may be obtained at the hotel at Talladale (a new first- class establishment recently erected by Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, and from which numerous excursions can be made). Auchnasheen, a station on the railway from Inverness to Strome Ferry. For description, see Route No. 45. For description of route from Inverness to Oban, see Route No. 43. ROUTE No. 71. The following New Trip was inaugurated during the summer of 1874, and is highly spoken of by tourists. From Oban to Loch Scavaig for the Coolin Hills (Island of Skye). A steamer leaves Oban at 7 A.M. every Saturday during the season, returning to Oban about 8 P.M. A correspondent sends the following graphic account of the trip: "NEW TRIP TO LOCH SCAVAIG AND COOLIN HILLS. "Mr. David MacBrayne's new trip from Oban to Loch Scavaig and back on the following day promises to be one of the most interesting of the many magnificent tours opened up by the same enterprising firm in the West Highlands. The distance from Oban to Loch Scavaig is about 80 miles, and affords the tourist an opportunity of viewing some of the grandest and most picturesque ranges of scenery to be found any where in the West or North. Oban, the Charing Cross of the Hebrides, is well known as the central point of attack on the interesting land of the Gael. From this centre, by splendidly appointed steamers, the tourist finds his way to Glencoe, Staffa, and Iona, and through the labyrinthine beauties of the Caledonian Canal to Inverness; and, indeed, to a hundred other places of interest far and near. This,* however, is the first occasion on which Skye has been brought within six and a half hours' sail of Oban, and on which the wild grandeur of Scavaig, the eerie silence of Corruisk, and the gloomy majesty of the Coolin Hills have been made accessible to the tourist, so as to allow him to return to Oban the following day. " Starting at seven o'clock in the morning, the steamer threads its way westward through the Sound of Mull. To the right, when opposite Duart Castle, a most magnificent view of Loch Linnhe is obtained. From this point the eye can travel as far north as Corran Ferry, scanning in the foreground the long green island of Lismore; on the eastward, the double peaks of Ben Cruachan; to the north, the green slopes of Appin and the Braes of Lochaber, culminating in the massive shoulders of Ben Nevis; and in the northwest the long, 181 LOC SCAVAIG. [SCOTLAND.] LOCH CORRUISK. bare, grimly fissured sides of Morven. On rounding Ardnamurchan Point, the steamer runs northward to Skye. On the horizon to the west are seen the long flat islands of Coll and Tyree. "Muck we pass on ourleft, and steer close under the shadow of the Scuir of Eigg, between that island and the heavy mist-covered shoulders of Rum, until we enter the dark and silent waters of Scavaig. Loch Lishart and Loch Slappin, with the substantial shoulders of Ben Blaven at the northern extremity of the latter, we pass on our right. Before us lies the small and desolate island of Soa, like a weird spectre in the lonely loch; and beyond, immediately before us, an abrupt boundary-line of irregular hills, which grow in altitude and savage grandeur as they retreat inland, closes the picture, and impresses the mind with solemn awe. Those who would see the Coolin Hills in their most picturesque aspect should do'so from Loch Scavaig. From this point, says a popular writer, 'the entire group of the Coolins is displayed, with its spiral peaks and serrated projections, flanked on the right by the huge, ruddy, conical ridge of Blaven. When seen in sharp relief against a clear sky, or in their more characteristic aspect, with their summits shrouded in white rolling mists, rising and falling in the deep, dark fissures, now enveloping and now unveiling the lofty pinnacles, reflecting hues of lurid purple from their moist and gleaming surfaces-these romantic hills present varieties of coloring such as no pencil can delineate, and exhibit a spectacle of alpine magnificence and stern sublimity unrivaled by the mountain scenery of any other part of the British Islands.' In a few minutes we are at the head of the loch. At this point we are landed, and after a stiff walk of less than a mile we come with a bewildering surprise upon Loch Corruisk, lying gloomily in its grim amphitheatre of hills. Here silence and solitude seem 182 to hold perpetual sway. Loch Corruisk is four miles long by one mile broad, but the mountains on all sides rise with such sheer abruptness that one is led to suppose its area is much less than it really is. As a rule the hillsides are utterly unscalable, and even the most manageable parts can only be attempted by the daring foot and the steady head. Here at certain time9 of the year the eerie shriek of the eagle may be heard; but save for this appropriate cry, and the light hissing treble of innumerable streams as they dash wildly down the riven faces of the hills, there is no other sound. After lingering meditatively for a time on its shores, we rejoin the steamer, and return to Oban after a day's sail of the most delightful kind. It is no flattery to say that the intelligent enjoyment of the day was immensely enhanced by the extreme courtesy of the officers on board." It was on the shore of Loch Corruisk that the Lord of the Isles and Bruce met Cormack Doil and his companions. It is evident there has been no change in the savage grandeur of the surroundings since that time: '1 Barely human eye has known A scene so stern as that dread lake, With its dark ledge of barren stone. Seems that prineval earthquake's sway Hath rent a strange and shattered way Through the rude bosom of the hill; And that each naked precipice, Sable ravine, and dark abyss, Tells of the outrage still. The wildest glen but this can show Some touch of nature's genial glow; And heath-bells bad in deep Glencoe, And copse in Cruchen Ben; Buti here-above, around, below, On mountain or in glenNo tree nor shrub, nor plant nor flower, Nor aught of vegetative power The weary eye may ken, For all is rocks at random thrown, Black waves.bare cra-gs,and banks of stone: As if were here denied The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew, That clothe with many a varied hue The bleakest mountain-side." Stl WALTER SOOTT. k, s;l' ROUTES. [ENGLAND.] ROUTES. For history and description, see p. 43. ROUTES. 72. London and Environs, including the Crystal Palace at Sydenham,Windsor Castle, Richmond, Hampton Court, Greenwich, Dulwich, p. 184. 73. London to Brighton, Portsmouth, and the Isle of Wight (description of Isle of Wight), p. 218. 74. London to Hastings, via Chiselhurst and Tunbridge Wells, p. 226. 75. London to Folkestone, via Tunbridge and Ashford, p. 227f. 76. London to Dover, via Chatham and Canterbury, p. 228. 77. London to Norwich and Yarmouth, via Chelmsford, Colchester, and Ipswich (direct route to Rotterdam, Antwerp, and the Rhine, via Harwich), p. 230. 78. London to Norwich and Wells, via Cambridge and Ely, p. 232. 79. London to Hfull, via Huntingdon, Peterborough, Newark, Doncaster, and Selby, p. 233. 80. London to Scarborough, via Bedford, Leicester, Derby, Sheffield, and York, p. 234. 81. Derby to Nottingham and Lincoln, p. 236. 82. Sheffield to Great Grimsby, via Gainsborough, p. 237. 83. Lond(mn to Edinburgh, via Berwickupon-Tweed, through Doncaster, Leeds, Durham, and Newcastle, p. 238. 84. London to Liverpool and Manchester, via Rugby, Stafford, and Crewo, p. 239. 85. London to Liverpool, via Reading, Oxford. Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick, Birmingham, Shrewsbury, Chester, and Birkenhead, p. 242. 86. Derby to Manchester, via Ambergate, Rowsley (Chatsworth Station), Buxton, and Stockport, p. 246. 87. London to Dublin, via Rugby, Tamworth, Crewe, Chester, Bangor, and Holyhead, p. 248. 88. Liverpool to Carlisle, via Preston, Lancaster, Kendal, and Penrith, p. g50. 89. The English Lake District, p. 252. 90. Lancaster to Carlisle (by the western coast), via Ulverston, Whitehaven, and MAaryport, p. 259. 91. Carlisle to Newcastle, via Haltwhistle and Hexham, p. 261. 92. Lancaster to Leeds, via Skipton, p. 262. 93. Sheffield to Lancaster, Penistone, TIuddersfield, Halifax, and Bradford, p. 263. 94. London to Great Malcern, via Oxford and Worcester, p. 264. 95. London to Land's End, via Reading, Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Torquay, Dartmouth, and Plymouth, p. 267. 96. Bristol to Birmingham, via Gloucester, Cheltenham, and Worcester, p. 271. 97. Bristol to Chester and Liverpool, via Gloucester, Hereford, Shrewsbury, and Chester, p. 272. 98. Bristol to Pembroke, via Newport, Cardiff, Swansea, and Caermarthen, p. 273. 99. Swansea to Chester, via Merthyr Tydvil, Brecon, Builth, Llanidloes, Oswestry, and Rhuabon, p. 276. 100. Bangor to Chester, via Caernarvon, Barmouth, Dolgelly, Bala, Corwen, and Rhuabon, p. 277. 101. Aberystoith to Caermarthen, via Lampeter, p. 279. 102. Swansea to Shrewsbury, via Llandovery and Craven Arms, p. 280. 103. Newport (Wales) to Hereford, via Pontypool and Abergavenny, p. 280. 104. London to Basingstoke, Salisbury, and Exeter, p. 281. 105. Exeter to Barnstaple, via Eggsford, p. 285. 106. London to Dorchester and Weymouth, via Basingstoke, Winchester, and Southampton, p. 285. 107. London to Portsmouth, via Sydenham (Crystal Palace), Epsom (Derby races), Horsham, and Ford (to the Isle of Wight), p. 287. 108. London to Ramsgate and Margate, via Chatham, p. 288. 109. Bath to Dorchester, via Frome, p. 288, 83 * - * 18-3. LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. ROUTE No. 72. London, the metropolis of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, and the most wealthy city in the world. Population nearly 4,000,000 in the metropolitan area. In 1851 the population numbered 2,362,000-over a million and a half increase in twenty-five years. The present increase is 44,000 per annum, or a birth every twelve minutes. The city covers an extent of one hundred and forty square miles, or fourteen miles long and ten broad. 360,000 houses are occupied by the population, and the cost of food is supposed to be $800,000 per day; and, although the climate of London is by no means pleasant, its sanitary advantages over other capitals are remarkable. According to statistics, out of every thousand inhabitants 24 die annually in London, while in Berlin 26, Paris 28, St. Petersburg 41, and Vienna 49 die annually out of the same number of the population. The British metropolis lies principally on the north bank of the Thames, in the County of Middlesex. A large portion, however, is situated within the county of Surry, on the south bank of the Thames, and 45 miles above that river's mouth. The portion of this vast metropolis which bears the name of "the City" is situated on the north bank of the Thames, between the Tower and Temple Bar, and was formerly surrounded by walls. The other divisions are Westminster, Marylebone, Finsbury, Lambeth, Tower Hamlets, Chelsea, and Southwark. In addition to these parliamentary divisions, London has numerous social divisions, the centre of which is Temple Bar. The commercial centre is 184 the Exchange. Two of the West End districts have lately been known as Belgravia and Tyburnia. The first occupies the southern wing of the West End, where reside, in. conjunction with that of London, which radiates from Hyde Park Corner, the creme de la creme of the English aristocracy; here are the principal club-houses and most elegant squares. Belgravia is a creation of the last fifty years. Tyburnia lies to the north of the West End. The houses are large and singular, the streets wide and clean, but the sameness of its appearance is rather oppressing. Its inhabitants are mostly city merchants and professional men, who live very close to the charmed ring of fashion, expecting yearly to take the leap across. London is of great antiquity. The Romans surrounded it with walls; but nothing is known of it previous to that time. In the time of Nero it bore the dignity of a Roman colony. During the last 800 years it has suffered much from fire and pestilence. Its police regulations are admirable, and it is considered to-day one of the best-governed cities in the world. London is particularly distinguished by the air of business which pervades its streets, especially in the "City." The West End has more the air of Paris, St. Petersburg, and other capitals. The streets are mostly wide, clean, and well paved, the houses plain and substantial, the architecture of the clubs and public buildings substantial and elegant. The most fashionable portion of London is the West End, and here, as we have said, reside the aristocracy of England (that is, during the season, which lasts from February to August). HOTELS. Grand Hotel, Grand Midland, Langham, Grosvenor, Westminster Palace, Bristol, Continental, Crawley's York, and Paris and Europe. The Grand Hotel (Trafalgar Square), opened in 1880, on the site of the former mansion of the dukes of Northumberland, in one of the finest situations in Europe, is well fitted to vie in attractiveness with the leading houses of the two continents. It is close to the principal public buildings, exhibitions, and theatres, and the interikor is most admirably appoint PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY FROM LIVERPOOL TO LONDON. I I I SKETCH PLA,,N OF LONDON~ I — I 1 f II R.E GE W ~ PARKr S Cross o ri [its Sta t gle,~ i r~t~e ~iUt a e 0 I c Tybupnia ns ton It Y D P A It I n; g s, I LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. ed, and handsomely furnished. The Grand Mlidland is the largest in the United Kingdom. It is constructed to board and lodge 600, and an idea may be formed of the magnificence of the interior when it is stated that the furnishing cost ~85,000== $425,000. This immense sum has been spent in a judicious manner, and the company has exercised great judgment in securing the services of Mr. Robert Etzensberger, who has one of the best reputations in Europe, as director; he formerly filled that position at the Hotel de Rome, Rome, and the Victoria at Venice, and has now unlimited powers for exercising his great ability. The Langham is a beautiful house, most admirably managed. It is situated in the centre of the fashionable part of West End, at easy distance from the principal sights of London. The internal arrangements of this hotel are complete, and the service most admirable. The Grosvenor Hotel, at Victoria Station, Belgravia, S.W., adjoining the London, Chatham, and Dover, the London and Brighton, and Metropolitan Railways, is a handsomelyfurnished, finely-built, and well-managed house, besides enjoying a situation that is most convenient for those departing for the South or the Continent. The Westminster Palace Hotel, Victoria Street, S. W., opposite Westminster Abbey, is contiguous to the parks, clubs, railways, and theatres. It has recently been enlarged and embellished, and contains fine and commodious public dining, drawing, smoking, and billiard rooms. Cuisine excellent, and every attention is paid to the comfort of visitors, the management being perfection. The Bristol is finely conducted by Mr. Eisele, formerly of the Hotel Meurice, in Paris. It enjoys one of the best situations in London, being in the Burlington Gardens, in close proximity to Bond and Regent Streets, near Piccadilly. It is furnished in Continental style, with every possible comfort; first-rate cuisine and excellent wines. The Continental, 1 Regent Street, is an elegant new house in a fine position, with a high reputation for its cuisine and wines, its restaurant being greatly frequented. Crawley's York Hotel, 8,9,10, and 11 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly, is a large, comfortable family hotel, with suites of apartments for families and gentlemen to suit all tastes; under the personal super vision of the proprietors. The Paris and Europe Hotel, 15 and 16 Leicester Place, and 7 and 9 Leicester Square, is in the centre of the metropolis, and conducted on the Continental system, table d'hote, etc. The Holborn Restaurant, at 218 High Holborn, is one of the very first establishments of its kind in England. Besides separate meals at all hours from the daily bill of fare, there is a table d'hote dinner for 3s. 6d. from 5.30 to 8.30, served at separate tables in the different salons, accompanied by a concert of first-class instrumental music. Lodgings are, on an average, twenty-five per cent. cheaper than in Paris, although every thing depends on the locality and style of house. A parlor and two, three, or four good bedrooms, in a good locality, will cost some seven guineas* per week, or five and a quarter dollars per day; but prices vary from two guineas to fifteen per week during the season, an increase of one fifth over ordinary prices. The lodgings have not separate kitchens, as in Paris, consequently a bargain must be made with the persons who let the apartments: have it thoroughly understood in regard to the price, and whether attendance is included. The most fashionable streets for lodgings are Regent Street, St. James Street, Sackville Street, Jermyn Street, Dover Street, Half-moon Street, King Street, and Bury Street. Families can always find furnished houses at the West End. One of the most quiet, convenient, and first-class establishments is the boarding-house of Mr. Burr, Nos. 10,11, and 12 Queen Square, near the British Museum, where one can remain for a day or longer. While its situation is in the centre of the metropolis, it is most convenient for those who are traveling for either pleasure or business. Another establishment of similar character is the private American hotel No. 15 New Cavendish Street, which is also highly spoken of. Among the best streets for lodging-houses at the West End are " the Burlington," Regent Street; "Pall Mall," Cockspur Street; "Perry's," Regent Street; the "Wellington," Piccadilly; the "Westminster Palace Hotel," and "Simpson's," Strand. For late suppers, "Cooper's," opposite Drury Lane; "Hotel de l'Europe," near the Haymarket; ~~- - *A guinea equals $5 25. 185 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. and "Evans's," in C6vent Garden. When making excursions or dining in the suburbs, the houses of high repute are the "Star and Garter," Richmond; the" Ship" and "Trafalgar," Greenwich; "Lovegrove's," at Blackwall; and the "Ship," at Gravesend. Sights that the Traveler should see, wita the terms and times of Admission, arranged in alphabetical order. Many may be omitted, but, if possible, one should see them all. Alisop S Sons' Ale Warehouse, Camden Town. Antiquarian Society, Somerset House; by letters to the Secretary. Apsley House, by order from the Duke of Wellington. Bank of England, from 10 to 8; order from a director. Barclay's Brewery, near London Bridge; by order from the Messrs. Barclay. British Museum, Great Russell Street, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 10 to 4. (See New Reading-room.) Buckingham Palace, Royal Stable, and Picture-galler; order from the Lord Chamberlain's Office, and for the Stables, to the Clerk of the Mews. Charing Cross and Charles First's Statue. Chelsea Hospital and Chelsea Royal Military Asylum, on application. Chiswick Horticultural Gardens, open daily; order from member. Christ's JHospital, Newgate Street; by application to one of the governors. College of Surgeons' Museum, Lincoln's Inn Fields, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, andThursdays (except during the month of September), from 12 to 4; surgeon's order. Covent Garden Market, early Saturday morning. Crstal Palace, Sydenham, daily; from Victoria or London Bridge Station. Custom-house and Coal Exchange, Lower Thames Street. Def and Dumb A sylum, Old Kent Road; free. 186 Duke of York's Column, St.James's Park, May to September, 12 to 3; sixpence. Dulwich Gallery (Dulwich College), from 11 to 3; free. East India Museum, Whitehall, daily; free. Greenwich Hospital, Greenwich, from 10 to 7 in summer and 10 to 3 in winter; Mondays and Fridays, free; other days, 3d. Guildhall, King Street, Cheapside; 10 to 3. Paintings. Guy's Hospital, St.Thomas Street; students' introduction. Hampton Court Palace, every day except Friday. The Picture-gallery, Cardinal Wolsey's Hall, Parks, and Gardens, free: a small fee is usually paid on entering the Vinery. Highgate Cemetery, Highgate; free. Houses of Parliament, Saturday, between 10 and 4; by ticket, on application at the Lord Great Chamberlain's Office, near Victoria Tower. Hyde Park and Rotten Row, from 12 to 2, and 5 to 7 during the season (May, June, and July). Institution of Civil Engineers, Great George Street, Westminster; member's ticket. Kensington Gardens. Band plays Tuesdays and Fridays, between 5.30 and 6.30, May and June. Kensington Museum, open daily from 10 to 4, and from 7 to 10 Monday and Tuesday evenings. Free on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays; on other days, sixpence. This Museum contains the cartoons of Raphael, the Vernon and Sheepshanks galleries of paintings, and the Government School of Design. Kew Botanical Gardens, from 1 to 8 in summer, and 1 to 4 in winter, and from 2 on Sundays; free. King's College, Somerset House; member's introduction. Lambeth Palace, by order from the Archbishop of Canterbury. London Docks, 10 to 4, free; Wine Vaults, 10 to 2; order from a wine-merchant, called a " tasting order." London Missionaries' Museum, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday; free. Mansion House, 11 to 3; small fee to the attendant (when Lord Mayor is absent). Metropolitan Cattle-maet Smithfield; early in the morning. LONDON..[ENGLAND.] LoNiox. Mint, Tower Hill, 11 to 3; free; order from the Master of the Mint. Museum of Asiatic Society, member's order. Museum of Practical Geology, Jermyn Street. NationalGallery, Trafalgar Square; free; from 10 to 5, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. Closed from September 15th to November 1st. Norwood Cemetery, Norwood. Post-office, sorting letters; apply to the American Legation. Private Galleries, for entrance to which, apply by letter to the proprietors: Bridgewater Gallery, St. James's, Duke of Sutherland's Gallery, Duke of Bedford's Gallery, Duke of Wellington's Gallery, Duke of Northumberland's Gallery, Marquis of Westminster's Gallery, Lord Ashburton's Gallery, Sir Robert Peel's Gallery, Lord Lansdowne's collection, and Mr. Thomas Baring's collection. Royal Academy, Burlington House; 8 to 7, May, June, and July; one shilling. Modern paintings. Royal Exchange, Cornhill; 10 to 4. Royal Horticultural Gardens, South Kensington. Royal Institution Museum, Albemarle Street; 10 to 4; member's order. Royal United German c Museum, Whitehall; by order from a member. Soane's lMuseum, every Thursday' and Friday in April, May, and June, and on Tuesdays, by application, from February to August. Society of Arts, John Street, Adelphi; free; daily, except Wednesday. Soho Bazar, free. Somerset Hlouse, 10 to 4; free. St. Bartholomew's lMuseum, Picture-gallery, and Hospital. St. George's Hospital, medical student's order. St. James's Park and Palace, daily; by application to the Clerk of the Mews. St. Paul's Cathedral, daily, Sundays excepted. Area free; vaults, gallery, ball, etc., in all, three shillings and twopence. Thames Tunnel. Go by steamer toWapping, then by rail through the Tunnel to London Bridge. Theatres (see Index). Tower of London, daily, Sundays excepted, 10 to 4; one shilling fee. Tussaud's Wax Exhibition, open day and evening. Go in the evening, 7 to 10; one shilling and sixpence. United Service Institution, by member's ticket, from 11 to 4. (Most worthy of inspection.) Water-colors (Old Society), 9 till dusk; one shilling; May, June, and July. Water-colors (Institute of the New Society), May, June, and July. Westminster Abbey, 9 to 6 in summer, and 11 to 2.30 in winter; free; choir and chapel, sixpence. Westminster Hall (close to the Abbey). Windsor Castle, free; Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays; from April to October, 1 to 3; November to March, 12 to 2. By order from the Lord Chamberlain's Office after 1 P.M. Woolwich Arsenal; apply to the American Legation. Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park; Mondays, sixpence; other week-days, one shilling. Sundays, by members' tickets only. To see and properly appreciate London in an architectural point of view, the traveler should devote one or two days to viewing its exterior. There are various ways of doing this, depending on the taste and circumstances of the tourist. If he be alone, and of economical habits, let him take the different lines of omnibuses which travel over the routes we are about to de. scribe. Secure a seat near the driver,who will, especially if his memory be refreshed with a small fee, point out the different objects of interest; or take a Hansom by the hour, with an intelligent valet de place; or, if he be accompanied by ladies, take a seat with the driver in an open carriage, following the different omnibus routes. Starting from Charing Cross, the architectural and fine-art centre of the West End, the towers of Westminster Palace and the houses of Parliament on your right, the National Gallery on your left, the beautiful clubhouses of Pall Mall in your rear, with Nelson, in bronze, looking down upon you from a height of 160 feet, you proceed along the Strand, passing Marlborough and Somerset Houses on your right; through Temple Bar, which marks the city's limits, on the west; through Fleet Street and Ludgate Hill, emerging into St.Paul's Church-yard, with the cathedral, Sir ClriitopherWren' s!*7.: LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. masterpiece, on your right, and the Postoffice on your left; through Cheapside, notice Bow Church, another of Wren's best works; through Poultry to the great financial centre, the Exchange, in front of which stands an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, the Mansion House, the residence of the Lord Mayor, Bank, etc.; down King William Street to London Bridge, passing in view of the beautiful monument erected to commemorate the great fire; then King William's statue. London Bridge, from 9 to 11 A.M., is one of the greatest sights of the capital. In the immediate vicinity hundreds of steamers arc landing their living freight of merchants, clerks, and others for the city, amid a fearful din of ringing bells, steam-whistles, shouting carmen and omnibus conductors, while the bridge itself is one mass of moving passengers and vehicles. On your left is Billingsgate (who has not heard of that famous fish-market?); next the Customhouse, then the Tower of London, below which are St. Catharine's Docks, then the celebrated London Docks, the vaults of which are capable of holding 60,000 pipes of wine, and water-room for three hundred sail of vessels. The Pool commences just below the bridge: this is where the colliers discharge their cargoes of coal. The city of London derives its principal revenues from a tax of thirteen pence per ton levied on all coal landed. On the left, or upper side of the bridge, notice the famous Fishmongers' Hall, belonging to one of the richest London corporations. Cross the bridge, and continue to the Elephant and Castle, via Wellington and High Streets, passing Barclay and Perkins's famous brewery, Queen's Bench, Surrey Jail, etc., via Great Surrey Street, across Blackfriars Bridge, along the Thames Embankment to the new houses of Parliament. Here you see not only the finest edifices in an architectural point of view, but in a military, naval, legal, and ecclesiastical point. England's great, alive and dead, are here congregated; the Horse Guards, whence the commander-in-chief of the English army issues his orders; the Admiralty; Westminster Hall, the Law Courts of England; Westminster Abbey, where England's kingsand queens have been crowned, from Edward the Confessor to the present time, and where many of them lie buried. Here, 188 in Whitehall Street, opposite the Horse Guards, is the old Banqueting-house of the palace of Whitehall, in front of which Charles I. was beheaded; through Parliament Street to Waterloo Place, to Pall Mall, the great club and social centre of London; St. James's Street, past St. James's Palace and Marlborough House to Buckingham Palace, to Hyde Park Corner, to Cumberland Gate or Marble Arch. Private carriages only can enter the Park: cabs and hackney coaches are not permitted entrance. Oxford Street to Regent Street, and down Regent (the fashionable shopping street) to the starting-point,Charing Cross. Next drive to the Southwestern Railway Station, and take the train for Richmond or Hampton Court, returning by the Thames in a boat to Greenwich. This will be a most interesting excursion, especially if you find a comparatively intelligent boatman to explain the different sights on the banks of the winding river. HINTS TO TRAVELERS. Endeavor to be in London some time in May, June, or July; then only can the capital be seen to perfection. Foreign money of any description will not pass current in London; have it changed immediately on arrival. All public galleries and other sights are closed on Sunday; devote that day to the churches. Beware of a London mob; the pickpock. ets are not only expert, but dangerous. In driving, take the left-hand side; in walking, the right. Saturday is the fashionable day for sightseeing. Avoid Monday, as that is the workmen's holiday. In visiting the Opera, either in Covent Garden or Drury Lane, full dress is absolutely necessary. The occupants of stalls or dress-circles in the first-class theatres generally go in full dress, although it is not arbitrary. Letters of introduction should never be sent by post in London; you must either leave them yourself, with your card, or send them by a messenger. The proper hour to make calls is from four to six. The usual dinner-hour is from six to eight. Ladies are handed to the table, but neverfrom it, in England. LONDON. [ ENGLAND.] LoNDON. The Epsom and Ascot races take place in May or June. The annual boat-race between Cambridge and Oxford takes place in April. The great cricket-matches take place in July. Hunting lasts from October to March. The cabs and cab-fares of London are a subject in which, in common with those of other large cities, all travelers take a special interest. The horses, as a general thing, are better than those of Paris, and make better time, even when going by the hour, and- are infinitely superior to those of NewYork. But the price is higher than that of Paris; we can not compare it with any thing in New York, as there every thing public in the shape of horse-flesh is a delusion and a snare, if we except the omnibus and horse-car. There are two species of public conveyance in London-the "Four-wheeler" and "Hansom." The former holds four persons, the latter (named after the inventor) two. The price of the Hansom is two shillings and sixpence, and the Four-wheeler two shillings the hour; two miles and under, one shilling; every mile additional, sixpence. If, when taking a cab, you do not mention that you take it by the hour, the driver will charge you the distance rates, and sixpence for every quarter of an hour you stop. After 8 o'clock in the evening and up to 6 o'clock in the morning, the driver is not compelled to drive you by the hour. When more than two persons are conveyed in the same cab, an additional sixpence is paid for each person for the whole time. An ordinary amount of baggage can be taken free of charge, if only one or two persons are in the cab; if more, twopence is charged for every package carried outside. A "Hansom" will always convey you with greater speed than a "Four-wheeler" especially if an extra fee be promised. In case of any attempt at extortion on the part of the driver, you can compel him to drive you to the nearest police-court, or station if the court be closed. A driver can not be compelled to drive over four miles per hour unless paid extra. Try to keep supplied with change; the cab-driver seldom has any. The charge for private carriages varies somewhat, but the following rates may be considered reasonable: A single horse and carriage for a day of six hours, ~1 = $5. Pair of horses and carriage, for the same time, ~1 uIs. 6d.$7 871. A pair of horses, carriage, and coachman, two hours, 13s. 6d.; each hour afterward, 6s. 6d. Single horse, carriage, and coachman, two hours, 8s. 8d.; each hour afterward, 3s. 6d. To and from theatre or receptions, 10s. 6d. to 14s. In excursions to the country, twenty-five per cent. should be added to the above prices. In directing letters, parcels, etc., be careful to mention the postal district, of which there are ten,viz., North, South, East, West, Northwestern, Southwestern, Nortlheastern, Southeastern, Western Central, Eastern Central. These districts are uwually represented by the initial letters N., S., E., W., N.W., S.W., N. E., S.E., W.C., E. C.; as, London, N.; London, E. C. As there are thirty-seven King Streets, thirty-five Charles Streets, and twentynine John Streets in the city, note the particular street thus: Charles Street, St. James's; King Street, Covent Garden, VW.C., etc. As a matter of course, omnibuses run in nearly every direction, Lut ladies rarely use them. An entirely different class of people occupy the inside from that which occupies the Broadway omnibus, although they are much patronized by business men going to and coming from the city. If at any extreme point in the city, and wishing to go to another, you can save both time and expense by taking the Underground or Metropolitan Railway, which runs nearly round the city (see map). Although an underground railroad, it is by no means disagreeable, but rather the contrary; the cars are comfortable, with no smoke, the engines using coke and condensing their steam. Trains, starting at the houses of Parliament, stop at St. James's Park; Victoria Station; Sloane Square; South Kensington; Brompton; High Street; Nottinq Hill Gate; Queen's Road; Bayswater; Paddington, the Great Western station, where you take the trains for Liverpool, North and South Wales, West of England, Midland counties, Birkenhead, etc.; Baker Street, to Madame Tussaud's Exhibition; 189 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. Portland Road; Gower Street Road; King's Cross; Farringdon Street Junction; Aldersgate, near the Post-office and St. Paul's Cathedral; Moongate, near the Bank, Exchange, Lombard Street, and the banking section of the city. Having reached the "City" under the houses and sewers, return by the railroad thrown over the houses, and twice over the river, from the Cannon Street Station to Charing Cross, occupying the short space of ten minutes. This is the most expeditious mode of reaching the city or returning from it. The Messengers or Commissioners of London consist of a corps of wounded soldiers of unexceptionable character, all of whom have lost some limb in the service of their country. They are to be trusted on all occasions. Their legal fare is, for half a mile, twopence; one mile, or more than a half, threepence; for over one mile, sixpence; or sixpence per hour, walking two and a half miles per hour. They may le found at the chief thoroughfares and principal hotels. To see an English trial by jury during term time, visit Westminster Hall, Guildhall, or the Central Criminal Court at the Old Bailey. A fee to a doorkeeper will secure you a good seat. Travelers will find a booking and general inquiry office, established by the London and Brighton and South Coast Railway, at No. 28 Regent's Circus, Piccadilly, where tickets are issued to the Crystal Palace and all sea-side stations. The Regent Circus Branch Inquiry Office is also a booking-office for the Isle of Wight and for Paris and the Continent by the Dieppe route. At this, offce also are insured direct and tourist tickets to all parts of the Continent, rvia Harwich. Tourists are also supplied with monthly tickets to Brighton. In England nearly all: places of interest charge fqr admission; and whileS $5 per day wil^uffice fo the Continent, $2 additional bad better eadded for Great Britain. Opposite s t. Pail's,8 at Nos, 76-79 St. Paul's Church-yarl, is the large establishment of MessrsJames $pen & Co. Ladies will h, fI d a selection unsurpassed for ariety, qtality and skillful and fashionable make. The dress-making receives e l atten'tiofrom the proprietors who:,..., -.... have skilled fitters constantly on hand; they also see that orders.are carefully filled and punctually delivered. One of London's sights is Osler's Tableglass Show-rooms, filled with every thing beautiful and wonderful in the way of chandeliers, candelabra, lustres, wall-lights, duplex lamps in richly-cut glass for drawing-rooms, English and foreign ornamental glass of every description, with sets and services in every style to suit all tastes and purposes. The principal hall is a wonder of architecture. the light, being let in through a thick tesselated roof, falling with equal radiance on every side, and rendering the view agreeable and at first inexplicable. The finest glasses have the clearness and ring of crystal, and the cutting, by a new invention (the property of the house), is most beautiful and artistic. The showroom is at 45 Oxford St. Caygill's Tourist Office is at 371 Strand, where his tours through Europe, America, and the East, and his hotel coupons, may be procured, and an immense saving in expense made thereby. (See Introduction.) One of the most fashionable and reasonable tailoring establishments in London is that of H. L. Marshall & Co., No. 516 New Oxford Street, near the British Museum. The goods of this house are of the very best quality, cheap, and made with the utmost promptitude. We can cordially recommend their traveling-suits, which they get up at twenty-four hours' notice. PARKS. Most of these are situated at the west end of the town, and add greatly to its beauty and general healthiness. They comprise Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, adjoining the latter; St. James's, Green, Regent's, Victoria, Battersea, Finsbury, and Southwark. Hyde Park contains 388 acres, and is a part of the ancient manor of Hida, which, until differently appropriated by Henry VIII., belonged to the monastery of St. Peter at Westminster. The views are varied and attractive; fine carriageroads and paths intersect each other at every point, and lux;ruriant trees afford a gracefuland refrshing shade. From April to July, between the hours of half past five and half past six o'clock, or even earlier, it is thronged with all the gay and fashionablequip e city. The scene is LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDONx. most enjoyable and the air refreshing. The science, literature, and art. A gilt statue portion called Rotten Row is devoted ex- of Prince Albert has lately been placed clusively to equestrians, no wheel-carriages under the canopy. The building will cost being allowed. Troops are sometimes re- $600,000. Of this amount, Parliament ape viewed on the level portion of the park, propriated$250,000. Kensington Gardens and near the western side stands a maga- are properly a portion of Hyde Park. At zine well stored. The scenery of Hyde present they contain 356 acres. They were Park is greatly enriched by the lake called originally the gardens attached to Kenthe Serpentine, where the bathing is good sington Palace (the birthplace of Queen in summer and the skating in winter: there Victoria), and when laid out in the reign are regulations for morning and evening of William III., contained only 26 acres; bathing "posted" at various places. A Queen Anne added 30 more, and Queen very pretty little Italian garden, contain- Caroline 300. The pleasure-grounds are ing statuary, fountains, etc., has been open to the public, on foot only: carriages formed at the head of the Serpentine, ren- are never permitted to enter. A fine band dering it much more attractive; along its plays at certain hours here during the seabank, on the north, is the Ladies' Mile, a son. celebrated carriage-drive. A stone bridge St..James's Parlt, situated near the palof five large arches and two of smaller di- ace of the same name,was greatly improved mensions, erected in 1826, at the western by Henry VIII., who drained the grounds, extremity, gives access to the gardens of and added to their beauty in various ways; Kensington Palace. Near the southeast still greater improvements, howeVer, were entrance of the park, close to Apsley House, made by Charles II.: and the Mall formed, stands, on an elevated pedestal, the colos- which was devoted to the game of ball. sal bronze statue of Achilles, weighing This park covers over 90 acres: in the centhirty tons, executed by Westmacott at a tre is a lovely sheet of water, dotted with lost of ~10,000, cast from cannon captured little islands, and upon its surface glide -t the battles of Waterloo and Salamanca, along the graceful swan and water-fowls: erected to the " Duke of Wellington and the bridge across this sheet of water was his companions in arms by their country- erected in 1857. The music of birds and women." The,lfarble Arch, which was the fragrance of flowers delight the visitor removed from the front of Buckingham on every side. The avenues form most Palace, forms the northeast entrance to the agreeable and shady promenades, being park, at the end of Oxford Street. A fine bordered by lofty trees and flowering series of arches and balustrades, from the shrubs. The park can be entered from designs of Decimus Burton, form an at- about nine or ten different points, at each tractive feature at the southeast entrance of which the Queen's Guard are stationed, to the park. The Great Exhibition Build- doing constant duty. The Parade, or large ing of 1851, now the Crystal Palace at Syd- graveled space, presents quite a military enham, formerly stood on Hyde Park, op- appearance in the morning at ten o'clock, posite Prince's Gate. To the left of this at which time about eight hundred men are gate, as you enter the park, stands the mustered as body-guards for the day. At National Monument to the Prince Consort, the north end of the parade is a piece of a Gothic structure 175 feet high, designed Turkish ordnance of immense size, brought by G. G. Scott. The canopy rests on a from Alexandria, in Egypt; and on the structure or base of Irish granite 130 feet south side is a vast mortar, which was used square. At the four corners are four mar- in Spain during the Peninsular War, aad is ble groups representing Europe, Asia, Af- said to send a bomb-shell with great force,rica, and America. The granite columns about four miles. At the entrance to the which support the canopy are from the Isle park from Waterloo Place is a broad flight of Mull. Above the groups representing of steps, surmounted by a lofty column, in the four quarters of the globe are four oth- commemoration of the late Duke of York. er groups representing Agriculture, Man- Some of the drives in this park are conufactures, Commerce, and Engineering. fined chiefly to the aristocracy. The surOn the basement are numerous life-size rounding buildings are lofty and very handfgures representing different notables in some, among which are St. James's Palace, VOL. I.-I 191 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. Marlborough House, and Buckingham Palace. On the opposite side from Buckingham Palace are three ofthe principal public offices-the Horse Guards, Admiralty, and Treasury. On the southern side of the park is the celebrated Bird-cage Walk, which derived its name from being formerly appropriated entirely to the merry songsters, whose sweet matins enchanted the visitor in his early rambles. On the north side, in addition to St.James's Palace, there is Marlborough House, the town residence of the Prince of Wales; Green Park, Staffcrd House, residence of the Duke of Sutherland; Carlton Ride, and Carlton House Terrace. This park is noted for numerous historical events. Charles I. walked through it, surrounded by soldiers, from his palace (St. James's) to Whitehall to be executed; Sir Robert Peel was thrown from his carriage and killed on Constitution Hill, at the upper end; and Queen Victoria was nearly assassinated at three different times near the same place. Green Park may le called a continuation of St. James's; it is situated between the last-named and Piccadilly, connected with Hyde Park by Constitution Walk, formerly the king's coach-road to Kensington. It is smaller than St. James's Park, covering only 60 acres. Some very elegant mansions are situated on this park: Bridgewater House, the residence of the Earl of Ellesmere; Spencer House, residence of Earl Spencer; Stafford House (corner of Green and St. James's). This is one of the finest private houses in England, and cost nearly one and a half million of dollars. At the upper end (Hyde Park Corner) is an immense equestrian statue of the late Duke of Wellington. On the opposite side of the street (Piccadilly) is Apsley House, residence of the late and present duke. Victoria Park, Bethnal Green, contains two hundred and sixty-five acres. It is situated in the northeast part of London, and was begun during the reign of Queen Victoria. The grounds are tastefully laid out with flower-beds, shady walks, and small lakes. In the centre of a pretty sheet of water rises a beautiful fountain of Gothic architecture, designed by Mr. Darbyshire, and erected at the private expense of Miss Burdett Coutts. Its cost was about $25,000. Reyent's Park, a delightful spot, covering 192 four hundred and-seventy-two acres, ornamented with sculptures, flowers, lakes, and pretty villas. It derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterward George IV., by whom it was designed, in 1812. It contains a botanical garden, around which there is a fine drive; also around the whole park, nearly two miles in extent. To the north of the park lie the famous Zoological Gardens, owned by the Zoological Society of London, founded in 1826. This collection is the finest in the kingdom. Among nearly two thousand specimens are a pair of hilpopotami, presented by the Viceroy of Egypt. The collection of reptiles, monkeys, and birds is very large. The seabear and elephant calf are two of the principal objects of attraction. The lions and tigers are fed at 4 o'clock P.M. During the summer the Life Guards band plays at 4 in the afternoon. Sunday is the fashionable day, but then you can only enter with members' tickets, which are easily procured at the hotels. On Monday the admission is sixpence: on all other days, one shilling. To the north of the Zoological Gardens lies Primrose Hill. now laid out in walks and public gardens: an interesting view may be had from its summit. Batiersea Park is a comparatively new park, situated on the right bank of the Thames, immediately opposite the Chelsea Hospital, and is reached by a most grace. ful and elegant suspension bridge, erected in 1858. Ten years ago the site of this park was a marshy field, below the level of the river, but one and a half million dollars have made it a most lovely spot for the denizens of this quarter of the city. It contains one hundred and eighty-five acres, four of which are devoted to a subTropical Garden. It was here the Duke of Wellington fought his famous duel with Lord Winchelsea. Finsbury Park, formerly HornseyWood, contains one hundred and twenty acres. This was commenced in 1867. Southwark Park contains sixty - two acres. Richmond Park,'Kew Gardens, and Greenwich Park will be treated under the "Environs of London." Kenington Park or Common is also a pleasure-ground of some importance. It was here the celebrated Chartists' meet ings were held in 1848. LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. London is interspersed with numerous rounding it are occupied by some of the squares, remarkable either for the monu- principal members of the British aristocments they contain or for their noted build- racy. On the north resides the Marquis ings. The principal are of Bristol; the Wyndham Club is also to Trafalgar Square, built between 1830 the north, and the back front of the handand 1850, the centre of which is ornamnlt- some Junior Carleton is at the south. On ed with granite fountains. On the north the east are the residences of Earl De Grey, side is the National Gallery of Paintings; Earl of Falmouth, Earl of Derby, Bishop on the south stands Nelson's Monument of London, and the Duke of Norfolk. and Landseer's lions. On one side of the George III. was also born at the southeast monument may be seen General Have- corner. On the west is Litchfield House, lock's statue; on the other, that of Sir the Army and Navy Club, the residences Charles Napier. Corresponding with these, of the Bishop of Winchester, Sir William on the northern corner is the equestrian Wynn, and the Duke of Cleveland. statue of George IV. by Chantrey, and at Hanover Square, built between 1720 and the northwest corner a base waiting for a 1730. On the southern side is a bronze hero to be born. statue of William Pitt by Chantrey. Lady In front of Nelson's Monument, at the Mary Wortley Montague formerly lived head of Whitehall Street, stands the eques- and died in a house on the southern side. trian statue of Charles I. by Le Sueur: this St. George's Church, noted for all the fashis on the spot where once stood Queen ionable marriages which occur in London, Eleanor's Cross, the place of execution of is situated on this square. The Duke of the Regicides. A short distance farther Wellington gave away many of the brides. down Charles himself was beheaded. On the northern side are the Royal AgriBelgrave Square, built between 1826 and cultural Society of England, the Zoological 1833, on land belonging to the Marquis of Society, and the residence of the Earl of Westminster. The houses are uniform Harewood; and on the west the Royal and rather handsome, adorned in front Academy of Music, the Oriental Club, and with large Corinthian columns. On the the residence of the Earl of Lucan. northern side lives the Duke of Bedford Berkeley Square was built between 1730 and Earl of Burtington; on the east, the and 1740. On the south is situated LansDuke of Montrose; at the southeast corner, downe House, the residence of the Marthe Earl of Sefton; and on the west, Sir quis of Lansdowne, which contained a picRoderick Murchison. ture and sculpture gallery. On the east Grosvenor Square was built between is situated the house No. 11, in which Hor1720 and 1730, mostly by Sir Richard Gros- ace Walpole died; also the residence of the venor, who erected a statue to George I., Earl of Balcarras. On the west are the since removed. The houses are large and mansions of the Earl of Haddington and handsome. The Earl of Wilton lives on the Earl of Powis. In this last the celethe eastern side, the Earl of Shaftesbury brated Lord Clive died. and Duchess of Cleveland on the west, and Cavendish Square was built between 1730 the Marquis of Exeter, Marquis of Avles- and 1760. It contains the equestrian statue bury, and Earl of Harrowby on the south. of the Duke of Cumberland, and a statue Portman Square, built between 1790 and of Lord George Bentinck. On the west is 1800. It is surrounde. by handsome resi- Harcourt House, the residence of the Duke dences. On the south are the mansions of of Portland. On the south is HIolles Street, Lord Leigh and the Earl of Cardigan. Aat in No. 16 of which Lord Byron was born. the northwest corner notice a detached Soho Square, built between 1670 and house: it was here that the celebrated 1690. It contains a statue of Charles II. Blue-stocking, Mrs. Montagu, gave her The whole of the southern side was origMay-day dinners to the chimney-sweep inally occupied by Monmouth House. On boys of London. the west is the Soho Bazar and the manSt. James's Square, built between 1670 sion of Sir Joseph Banks. and 1690. In this square is situated the Bloomsbury Square, built between 1670 bronze equestrian statue of William III. and 1715. It contains a statue of C. J. by Bacon. The handsome mansions sur- Fox by Westmacott. On the eastern side 193 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. formerly stood the mansion of Lord Mansfield, destroyed in the riots of 1780; and on the northern side was formerly situated the Bedford House. Leicester Square, built between 1670 and 1690. This square is the great centre of French refugees. On the east is the Alhambra; also the Sabloniere Hotel, in part of which Hogarth formerly lived; on the northern side, the site of Leicester House; on the west, that of Sir Joshua Reynolds; and on the south, that of Sir Isaac Newton, in St. Martin's Court. Lincoln'-Inn-Fields, built between 1619 and 1636. Lord William Russell was beheaded in the centre of this square. On the east is situated Lincoln's Inn Hall; on the north,Whetstone Park; on the south, the Royal College of Surgeons; and on the west, Newcastle and Lindsay Houses. Covent Garden Market, built between 1630 and 1642. The market originated in 1656. The present building, which is situated in the centre of the square, was erected in 1830 by the Duke of Bedford. A visit should be paid to this market any time between four and seven o'clock on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday mornings. The fruit and flowers may be seen any time during the day between ten and five. The Opera-house and Floral Hall are situated to the northeast of the square. Tavistock and Richardson's Hotels are on the north side; the Bedford Hotel and site of Button's Coffee House on the east, and the church of St. Paul's on the west. In Waterloo Place, at the north side of St. James's Park, stands a Doric pillar of granite, surmounted by a statue in bronze of the Duke of York. It is 124 feet in height. A fine view is obtained from the summit. One of the most conspicuous monuments in the city is situated on Fish Street Hill. It is a Doric column over 200 feet in height, designed by Sir Christopher Wren. It was erected to commemorate the "' Great Fire" in London. The pedestal was sculptured by Cibber. On the summit is an imitation of a blazing sun. Westminster Abbey."That antique pile behold, Where royal heads receive the sacred gold; It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keel): There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep, 194 Making the circle of their reign completeThese suns of empire, where they rise they set." Here the royal coronations have takes place since the time of Edward the Confessor up to the present time, with great pomp and magnificence; and, even though the ceremony had been performed else. where, it was thought necessary to repeat it at Westminster, in the presence of all the great personages of the land. At the moment the crown is put on, a signal is given to the Tower guns to fire a royal salute. The Abbey is of Gothic design, built in the form of a cross, 400 feet long and 200 feet wide. It was originally founded in the year 610 by Sebert, King of the East Sax. ons, but was destroyed by the Danes, and afterward rebuilt in 958 by King Edgar; it was again rebuilt and enlarged by Edward the Confessor in 1245. During the reign of Henry VIII. it suffered great in. juries, and still greater by the Puritans, it being then occupied as barracks for the soldiers of Parliament. After having sustained these injuries, Sir Christopher Wren undertook the reconstruction of it, and in the most able manner added to its former beauty and solidity. During the progress of reconstruction several singular discoveries were made of ancient monuments, and also the mosaic pavement in front of the altar in the choir. Since 1856 a large number of the windows have been painted, illustrating the most beautiful and touching portions of the Te Deum. The large west window, painted in 1735, represents Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; Moses and Aaron, and the twelve Patriarchs; the arms of King Sebert, King Edward the Confessor, Queen Elizabeth, King George II., and Dean Wilcocks, Bishop of Rochester. The south, or marigold window, of stained glass, designed by Messrs. Ward and Nixon in 1847, represents different subjects from the Old Testament, incidents in the life of the Redeemer, and the word "' Jehovah" surrounded by angels. The north, or rose window, is commemorative of our Savior, the twelve apostles, and the four Evangelists. Near the Abbey stood the sanctuary, used in former times as a place of refuge for criminals. Edward V. was born here; his heart-broken mother sought refuge in this place for herself and her son Richard from the persecutions of his cruel uncle. We will enter at the Poets' Corner (south LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDOA transept), and notice a few of the monuments which are the most remarkable. iilton, bust and tablet, with a lyre around which is entwined a serpent holding an apple. With what admiration we look upon the author of Paradise Lost, and find ourselves lost in the beauties of his works. Shakspeare, full-length statue, leaning against a pillar, with the crowned heads of Queen Elizabeth, Henry V., and Richard II. How much sadness it awakens in the mind to think of such talent having passed forever to "that undiscovered country from whose bourn no traveler returns! All hail, great master! grave sir, hlail; I come To answer thy best pleasure: be it to fly, To swim, to dive into the fire, to ride On the curled clouds; to thy strong bidding task Ariel and all his quality.-Tempest, Act I. Frederick Handel, monument with fulllength statue, organ, and music scrolls: he needs no more enduring fame than being the author of the magnificent oratorio of the Messiah. Robert Southey, tablet and bust: but little ornament is required commemorative of the poet whose impressive and elegant style will endure while memory lives. Abraham Cowley, urn surrounded by a wreath: distinguished and admired for his elegant scholarship and ability as a writer. Geoffrey Chaucer, antiquated altar tomb with Gothic canopy. John Dryden, bust, erected by Sheffield, duke of Buckingham. Samuel Butler, author of Hudibras, bust with masks. Ben Jonson, tablet with medallion, masks of Comedyand Tragedy. lMatthew Prior, sarcophagus with bust, surmounted by infants, statues of Thalia and History.' Michael Drayton, white marble slab with bust, erected by Countess of Dorset. Thomas Campbell, poet and founder of the London University. Duke of Argyle, statue of Fame attired in Roman costume; also statues of Pallas and Eloquence, the Genius of Liberty in bas-relief, with cornucopia and Magna Charta: this monument was executed by Roubiliac, and it is said that Canova was particularly struck with the beauty of the statue of Eloquence, upon which he gazed for some length of time with wonder and admiration. David Garrick, monument representing Comedy and Tragedy. Here also are interred the remains of Addison, Sheridan, Beaumont, Spenser, Nicholas Rowe, James Thomson, author of the Seasons; John Gay; Dickens, buried June 14,1870; Mrs. Pritchard the actress, and others. The monuments to Chaucer, Spenser, and Drayton were erected at the expense of Anne Pembroke; that of Cowley by George, duke of Buckingham; and that of Prior, with the inscription, by himself. You will be conducted by a guide through the principal chapels, for which you are taxed sixpence; the admission to the nave and transepts is free during Divine service, and between the hours of twelve and three in winter, and four and six in summer. The first chapel is that of St. Benedict, but is not shown. It was dedicated to St. Benedict, a native of Italy, founder of the Benedictines and of the monastery at Cassino. The principal monuments are those of the Countess of Hertford and Simon Langham, archbishop of Canterbury. The second, or Chapel of St. Edmund, contains some fine tombs of monumental brass: the principal are those of William de Valence, earl of Pembroke; Duchess of Suffolk, mother of Lady Jane Grey; Lady Russell; John, earl of Cornwall, son of Edward II.; and Duchess of Gloucester. Chapel of St. Nicholas.-The monuments in this chapel which are moFt attractive are Winifred, marchioness of Winchester; Duchess of Northumberland; Anne, duchess of Somerset; mother of Queen Jane Seymour; Lady Jane Clifford; Mildred, wife of Lord Burleigh; Lady Cecil, monument erected by her husband, Sir Richard Cecil. Chapel of Henry VII., in the south aisle.-A mag. nificent tomb in memory of Mary Queen of Scots, the beautiful yet unfortunate queen. Montague, earl of Sandwich, lies buried here. Altar tomb to Margaret Beaufort, countess of Richmond and mother of Henry VII. George, first Duke of Albemarle, full-length statue. Lady Catharine Walpole, statue-esteemed for her many virtues; remarkable for her beauty, wit, and love of the arts. In the nave is a splendid monument, with figures in gilt brass, to George Villiers, duke of Buckingham, and his wife Catharine; in the same vault the remains of Mary, duchess of Buckingham, are interred. John Sheffield, duke of Buckingham, effigy in a Roman habit, and at his feet his duchess, Catharine, weeping. Among the other tombs are those of Duke de Montpensier and 195 LoNxDON. [EGS GLAND.] LONDON. Duke of Richmond. North aisle.-Sar- most ancient, and considered the most incophagus containing the bones of Henry V. teresting of them all. In the centre stands and his brother Richard, duke of York, who the mosaic shrine of the Confessor, before were murdered by their cruel uncle, Rich- which Henry IV. was seized with his last ard III. Magnificent monument to the illness while confessing. Here may be obmemory of Queen Elizabeth; Anne, queen served many fine monuments, such as those of Denmark; Henry, prince of Wales. The of Richard II. and his queen, Anne, Henry Chapel of Henry VII. is richly ornamented III, Henry V., Edward III. and his queen, -here the knights of the Order of Bath Philippa, and Queen Eleanor. Here are were formerly installed-the Richmond also the two coronation chairs used at the who defeated Richard III. of the battle of coronation of the sovereigns of Great BritBosworth Field, and who, by his marriage, in. One of them, with a stone seat, known united the rival houses of York and Lan- formerly in Scotland as Jaco,'s Pillow, was caster. The white and red roses here show brought from that country by Edward I. his descent on the beautifully-worked oak In the Ambulatory is sitgates at th3 entrance. The chapel is en- uated the monument to General Wolfe, who tered by a flight of steps. In the centre crushed the Bourbon lilies on the Hei hts of of the chapel is situated its leading feature, Abraham at Quebec. In the north transept the monument of Henry and his queen. the monuments most conspicuous are those Beneath the nave lie the remains of George of John Philip Kemble, in the character of II. and his queen, and, although lying in Cato; Marquis of Londonderry, whose celdifferent coffins, they may be said to repose ebrated public career is deeply recorded in in the same, as the inner side of each was history, and whose memory is particularly removed by the king's request. The tombs cherished by the people of Ireland, who of royalty in this chapel are very numer- will never forget the statesman of the ous, including James I., Charles II., etc. legislative union; William, earl of M,.nsIn the Chapel of St. Paul the leading monu- field, with the statues of Justice and Wisments are those of James Watt, the celo- dom; William Pitt, earl of Chatham, with brated engineer; Sir Thomas Bromley, the figures of Prudence and Fortitude, lord chancellor of England, and one of the Peace and Neptune at the base, resting on judges of Mary Queen of Scots; and Lord a dolphin. The nave contains the monuBourchier, standard-bearer of Henry V. at ments of Mrs. Oldfield, the actress; Conthe great battle of Agincourt. In the greve, the dramatist; Lord Holland, with Chapel of St. John there are several very the statues of Genius, Science, Literature, fine monuments: observe Lord Hunsdon's, Charity, and Justice; also one erected by chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth; Colonel George III. to Major Andr6, who was exePopham, and William de Colchester. Islip cuted as a spy by our commander in the Chaipel contains a fine monument to the Ab- Revolutionary War. Fox, Percival, WoodIot Islip, after whom the chapel is named. worth, and others, are also interred here, The chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and and have monuments fitting their memory. St. Andrew contain many monuments of Contiguous to Westminster Abbey, and interest, the most interesting of which is also to the Westminster Bridge, are the that of Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale, by Rou- Houses of Parliament, or new Palace of' biliac: a most curious design, representing Westminster, a magnificent Gothic struca sheeted skeleton startin forth from the ture, covering eight acres of ground, and marble doors of the monument, aiming his erected on the site of the old houses of dart at his victim; she sinks into her ter- Parliament, which were destroyed by fire rifled husband's arms, and he endeavors to in 1834. It has a river front of 900 feet, avert the blow. The other attractive men- raised upon a terrace of Aberdeen granite, uments are those of Sir Francis Vere, the ornamented with statues, shields, etc. The great general of Queen Elizabeth's reirn; cost of this structure was about $8,000,000. Lord and Lady Norris, and six sons; full- The House of Lords may be visited on length statue of Mrs. Siddons, the celebra- Wednesdays and Saturdays by ticket from ted tragic actress. In the centre of the Ab- the lord chamberlain. To hear the debates bey, and nearly surrounded by the different in the House an order from a peer is indischapels, is that of Edxoard the Confessor, the pensable, and in the House of Commons 196 ~LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. an order from a member. The House of Peers is profusely gilded, and painted in a series of frescoes, representing the Spirit of Justice and Spirit of Chivalry, by Maclise; Baptism of Ethelbert, by Dyer; Edward IlI. conferring the Ord r of the Garter on the Black Prince; and the Prince of Wales committad to prison for his assault on Judge Gascoigne. This hall is 100 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 high. There are eighteen statues of barons in niches between the windows who signed the Magna Charta. In this room the queen sits on the gorgeously gilt and canopied throne when she opens the Parliament. In the centre is the woolsack of the Chancellor of England-a large, square bag of wool, used as a seat, without back or arms, and covered with red cloth. The IHouse of Conzmons is the same height and width as the Lords, but not so long. It is also less gaudily decorated, but still very magniticently. At the north end is the speaker's chair. There are galleri(s along the sides and ends, one of which, immediately back of the speaker, is appropriated to the reporters of newspapers. The original ceiling was much higher than the present one; the proportions being bad for hearing, caused an alteration to be made, which was by no means an improvement. Besides these two apartments, the House of Peers and House of Commons, there are numerous others belonging to the noble structure. The Libraries and Committee-rooms are situated on the river-front. On the side contiguous to Westminster Abbey are the Victoria Tower, the Royal Staircase, Sf. Stephen's Porch and Corridor, and Chancellor's Corridosr. At the south end are the Queen's Robinq-room, the Guard-room, etc. At the north end are located the Clock-tower and the Speaker's Residence. The Queen's Robingroom is frescoed illustrating the story of King Arthur, and that of the Peers with subjects from the history of the Bible. The frescoes in the loyanl Gallery well represent events in English history. The first of the series, representing the meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the battle of Waterloo, has been contributed by Mr. Maclise. 45 feet long Iby 12 feet high. The Poets' Hall is to represent scenes from the creations cf Shakspeare, Milton, Byron, Scott, Pope, Dryden,Chaucer, and Spenser. The Palace of Westminster is surmounted by three towers. When the queen opens l Parliament in person, the following description of the opening in February, 1871, is in the usual way: The peeresses and - other ladies for whom places had been reserved in the House of Lords began to arrive early, and by 1 o'clock the House pre* sented a spectacle with which surely no other in the world could vie. The " cross" benches, between the bar of the House and. the table, had been arranged for the occasion longitudinally, and a space had been railed off on the ministerial side, at the end nearest the throne, for the accommodation of the diplomatic body. The cross benches, the judges' benches between the table and the woolsack, and the front bench on either side of the House, were left at the disposal of the peers, but the back benches on both sides of the gallery were occupied by peeresses and other ladies of distinction. The peers, who walked about greeting their friends, or who occupied the front or cross benches, added little but color to the general effect; for their robes formed an effectual disguise to grace of figure or dignity of carriage, and in some cases served also to disguise even tolerably familiar lineaments. While the House was as yet comparatively thin, a few of the arrivals attracted notice, and among these were Lords Houghton, Cairns, and Lucan, the Archbishop of York, and the Bishops of St. David's, Winchester, Gloucester, and Peterborough. The bishops mostly gathered upon the bench in front of the diplomatic body, and fourteen of the judges took their seats on the benches allotted to them. The members of the diplomatic body vied with the ladies in their contribution of gold and color to the assembly. As 2 o'clock approached the Duke of Cambridge entered the House, wearing his robes over his field-marshal's uniform, and by that time rather more than a hundred peers were present. In a few moments all rose at the entrance of their royal highnesses the Princess of Teck and the Princess Christian, who took places towards the ends of the woolsack, facing the throne. The Prince and Princess of Wales were the next arrivals, and the prince, after speaking to the princess and some of the peers, took the chair on the right of the throne, while the Princess of Wales occupied the centre of the woolsack. At 12 minutes 197 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. past 2 the door on the right of the throne was thrown open for the entrance of her majesty, who was preceded by Lord Granville carrying the sword of state, by the Marquis of Winchester with the cap of maintenance, and by Lord Bessborough with the crown. Her majesty wore black velvet bordered with ermine, a white cap surmounted by a small crown, a necklace of diamonds, and the Order of the Garter; and was followed by their royal highnesses the Princesses Louise and Beatrice, and by Prince Arthur, who wore a dark green rifle uniform. The robe of state had previously been placed on the throne, and when the queen seated herself the Princess Louise arranged its folds around her majesty. The princesses then remained standing on the steps to the left of the throne, in front of the vacant chair of the royal consort. Lord Granville stood immediately on the left, Lords Bessborough and Winchester on the right of the throne, and Prince Arthur to the right of the Prince of Wales. A messenger was then dispatched to summon the House of Commons to the presence of the queen, and a few minutes of absolute stillness and silence followed-a striking contrast to the rustle of silks and the murmur of voices that had prevailed but a short time before. Then there came a sound of quick'y trampling feet, constantly increasing in intensity, until Mr. Speaker made his appearance at the bar of the House, followed by the usual and often described rush of the more swift and active of the members. In the front rank of these was the prime minister, looking as if his rest during the vacation had been of no small service to him. As soon as the noise of the arrival had been hushed, the lord chancellor advanced to the foot of the throne, and said that he was commanded by her majesty to read the speech, and that he would do so in her majesty's own words. At this statement there was probably some general sense of disappointment. As the chancellor proceeded, the queen sat with eyes cast down, and almost absolutely still, a single slight movement of the fan being all that was at any time perceptible. Adjoining the building just described is Westminster HI(ll, teeming with historical associations of kings, queens, and princes, and the scene of coronation baneuets for ages. Immediately facing the 198 houses of Parliament, on the opposite side of the Thames, is St. Tnomas's Hospital, a most imposing structure. The Thames Embankment should be examined here. This magnificent woik reclaimed fifty acres of land from the Thames at an expense of $2,500,000, and gave it to the citizens of London for a promenade. St. Paul's Cathedral, situated in the most central part of the metropolis, is its most prominent object: it stands on the elevated position at the end of Ludgate Hill, and its lofty dome may be seen for miles around; the magnificent deep tones of its great bell, which is only tolled on the occasion of a death in the royal family, but strikes the hours, can be heard far out of the city; it is 10 feet in diameter, and weighs 41 tons. On this site formerly stood another Cathedral, three or four hundred years previous to the Norman Conquest, which was destroyed by the great fire of 1666. The present edifice was erected under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren; built in the form of a cross, 514 feet long and 287 wide. One architect and one master-mason spent thirty-five years of labor upon this building; and, when familiar with the fact that nearly all such edifices on the Continent took centuries to erect, it is a remarkable fact that it was commenced and finished under the same bishop, the same architect, and the same mason; the remains of the immortal architect are deposited in the vaults of the Cathedral, as well as those of Wellington and Nelson, who lie side by side; the last-named reposes in a coffin made of the main-mast of the ship " L'Orient," which Nelson captured from the French, it was sent to him by Captain Hallowell It is said that Nelson had it set up behind his chair in the cabin of his ship. His outside coffin was made originally for Henry VIII. The cost of the whole building, which is of Portland stone, was nearly $4,000,000, and was built from the proceeds of a tax on the coal brought into the port of London during its erection. The principal monuments in St.Paul's are Sir Joshua Reynolds's, Dr. Johnson's, Nel son's, Bishop Heber's, Sir John Moore's Abercrombie's, and John Howard's. Th, remains of Benjamin West, SirJoshua Rey nolds, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and JameT Barry also lie here. Although St.Paul'? lacks the beauty and interest of St.Peter's, LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON, and other Continental churches, yet the im- uel College, Cambridge. The church was pression produced upon entering is remark- built in the Norman style of architecture, ably fine. The choir is extremely beauti- but its entrance-gate from Smithfield is a ful, and rich in magnificent carvings. The handsome specimen of the early English body of the Cathedral is open at all times style. Hogarth, the painter, was baptized to the public, admission free; but if you here in 1697. Immediately opposite St. wish to have a splendid view of London, Bartholomew's Gate stood the stake where you must make the ascent to a ball over Bloody Mary burned her victims. 600 steps, to visit which and the interme- St. Savior, Southwark, founded by Hendiate stations it will cost you 3s. 2d.: thus, ry VIII. in 1540, built in the early English to the whispering gallery, 6d.; to the ball, style. The choir and Lady Chapel are the Is. 6d.; to the great bell, model room, and only portions that remain of the original library, 8d.; then to the vaults to see Nel- church, both of which have recently been son's monument, 6d.; in all about 80 cts. restored. The Lady Chapel was used, unThis might seem an unreasonable charge der the reign of "Bloody Mary," as a court for visiting a church by those who have for the trial of heretics. There is a monuseen all the galleries and churches of Rus- ment to John Gower the poet. Several sia, France, and Austria without expending eminent persons have been buried here, a sou; but we must remember that these among others the poet Massinger, Edmund countries are despotic, and England is free, Shakspeare the actor (brother to William and that in free countries the poor have to Shakspeare), Philip Henslowe, manager of pay immensely for their freedom. Service the Globe Theatre and friend of the poet, on Sundays at 9.45, 3.15, and 7; and week and Fletcher, Beaumont's associate. days at 8, 9.45, and 4. St. JMary-le-Bow, or Bow Church, is loTemple, Church, near Temple Bar, con- cated in a very conspicuous position on the sists of two parts, the "Round" Church south side of Cheapside, and has a spiro and "Choir." The Round Church was of extreme beauty, designed by Sir Chriscommenced in the 12th century by Hera- topher Wren. The consecration of the clius, Patriarch of Jerusalem. The Choir Bishop of London takes place here. Nowas finished in 1240, and is in the early tice the fine old Norman crypt on which style of English architecture. The whole Sir Christopher erected the present edifice. church was restored at a cost of $350,000 The arches are "bows," hence the name about 1840. This was the church of the of the church. All persons born within Knights Templar, and monuments of sev- sound of "Bow-bells," the bells of this eral members of that order may be seen in church, are termed "' Cockneys." The bells the triforium of the church. Oliver Gold- are ten in number; the largest weighs over smith was buried east of the choir. The 53 cwt., and the smallest over 8 cwt. The incumbent of the temple is called the tower in which they are placed is 235 feet " Master," and occupies an office of con- high. It was from the site of the balcony siderable dignity. Hooker, the author, in the present tower that the kings formerwas master for six years. In former years ly sat to see the tournaments and ridings lawyers received their clients in the round in Cheapside. of the church, each one occupying his own St. Mary-le-Savoy was formerly the chapplace. Benchers and students only are el of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist. admitted to the choir. The round is open It is situated between the river and the to all. The choral services on Sunday are Strand; was erected during the reign of finely performed. Henry VIII. on the site of the palace of St. Bartholomew the Great, West Smith- Savoy. It is the property of the crown, field, is the oldest and one of the most in- being part of the estate of the Duchy of teresting churches in London. It was Lancaster. It was destroyed by fire in founded by Prior Rahere in 1102. This 1864, and restored by Queen Victoria 1865. Rahere was companion of Hereward, the The present beautiful ceiling is an exact "last of the Saxons." Notice his tomb, copy of the previous one, containing de with effigy, on the north side of the altar. vices on arms of the Dukes of Lancaster On the opposite side is the monument to There is a memorial window from the Sir Walter Mildmay, founder of Emman- queen to the prince consort; it is in the VOL. I.-I 2 199 LONDON [ENGLAND.] LONDON, east end, whSic is ornamented with Gothic niches. St. James's. Piccadilly, Westminster, is one of Sir Christopher Wren's masterpieces as far as the interior is concerned; the exterior, however, has little to boast of in the way of beauty. The church is noteworthy for the last resting-place of numerous celebrities. Lord Chesterfield, of world -wide notoriety, and the great Earl of Chathain, were both baptized here. Notice the marble font, by Gibbons; also the foliage over the altar, by the same sculptor. The present organ, made for James II., was presented to this church by his daughter Mary. Among those buried here were Sir John Malcolm, soldier and diplomat; James Gillray, caricaturist; Sir William Jones, Oriental scholar; Dr. Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope; D'Urfey, dramatist; the handsome Earl of Romney (the Henry Sydney of De Grammont's Memoirs); and Vanderveldes, senior and junior, the artists. St. Martin - i - the - Fields (Trafalgar Square) was erected between the years 1721 and 1726. The portico is considered a very beautiful piece of architecture. This church is also the burial-place of numerous eminent persons, among whom may be mentioned the poet Sir John Davys, the authors James Stewart and James Smith, the painters Hilliard and Paul Vansomer, Nell Gwynne, Jack Sheppard, etc. The register records the baptism of the celebrated Lord Bacon. St. Helen's, Bishopsgate St'eet. The church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Helen's was founded in 1216 by William Basing, Dean of St. Paul's. There is little to attract attention here except its antiquity, and the tombs of Sir John Crosby, Sir Thomas Gresham, and others. St. Giles's, Cripplegate, was built in 1545, and was one of the churches which escaped the great fire. It is interesting as the burial place of Milton; Fox, of martyr notoriety, was also buried here. The register records the marriage of the Protector Cromwell, and the burial of Defoe in the neighborhood. St. George's, Hanover Square, built by John James at the commencement of the 18th century. It contains some fine painted windows brought f. oni Mechlin. Near-'zO ly all the fashionable marriages in London take place here. Sir ChristopherWren distinguished himself in the designs of churches, having built fifty-three since the time of the great fire. Of the more recent structures, one of the most noticeable is St. Stephen's, of Gothic architecture, and erected at the expense of Miss Burdett Coutts. On Sunday a most exquisite choral service is performed. St. Marylebone, in the Marylebone Road, is elaborately finished, and the services here are very impressive. Among the Roman Catholic churches the most important is St. George's Cathedral, near the Bethlehem Hospital: it is a massive Gothic structure, but has never been finished, in consequence of a deficient amount of funds. Of the sensation religious establishments, however, none can compete with that of Spurgeon's Tabernacle: here the celebrated preacher entices the curious crowd, sometimes numbering four or five thousand. Whitehall Chapelwas formerly the Banqueting House of the palace of Whitehall, and at the time of the fire in 1695 it was the only portion of the palace which escaped destruction. The present edifice was erected in the time of James I., and is regarded as a most interesting specimen of Italian architecture. The interior is about 113 feet long and 56 wide; the ceiling was painted by Rubens in memory of James I. In front of one of the windows Charles I. suffered death on the scaffold. The Tower of London, supposed to have been commenced by Julius Casar. Al though most writers say that William the Conqueror first commenced it in 1078, still we have the authority of Shakspeare for saying it was begun by the Roman emperor. In Richard III., Act iii., scene 1, Prince Edward says, " I do not Ilk - the Tower, of any place: Did Julius C('e ir build that place, my lord? Gloster. He did, my gracious lord, begin thai plac', Which, since, succeeding ages have re-edified. Privc. Is it upon record? or else reported Successively from age to age he built it? BTckisngham. Upon record, my gracious lord.' This celebrated fortress is situated at the eastern extremity of the city, and is sepa. rated from the thickly populated portion of the city by what is called Tower Hill. It covers about twelve acres of ground, and is surrounded by a moat, which, since 1843, LONDON. [ENGLAND.] -LONDON. has been used as a garden. On the river side is an entrance called the Traitor's Gate, through which persons of state were conveyed in boats after their trial. Within the famous structure are numerous buildings, including the Barracks, Armory, Jewel-house, White Tower, St. Peter's Tower, Bloody Tower, where Richard III. murdered his nephews; the Bcwyer Tower, where the Duke of Clarence was drowned in a butt of Malmsey; the Brick Tower, in which the Lady Jane Grey was confined; the Beauchamp Tower, the prison of Anne Boleyn, and numerous other buildings. In addition to the 'ower's original use as a fortress, it was the residence of the monarchs of En land down to the time of Elizabeth, and a prison for state criminals; and numerous are the kings, queens, warriors, and statesmen who have not only been imprisoned, but murdered within its walls. The histories of Lady Jane Grey, Catharine Howard, Anne Boleyn, Sir Walter Raleigh, Lord William Russell, the Protector Somerset, Sir Thomas More, William Wallace, and King John of France, do they not live in the remembrance of every historical reader? These old towers are very interesting, but only a few of them are open to the public. In addition to the historic points of interest which you visit, you will be conducted through the Armories and Jewel-house, for which you must purchase tickets, price one English shilling; and, after waiting until a party is collected, which is done every half hour, a warder, dressed as a yeoman of the time of Henry VI [I., will show you through the Armory, and then intrust you to the care of a female, who will describe the use and value of the regalia in the Jewel-house. The Horse Armory, built in 1826, is an extensive gallery, in which is a finely-arranged collection of armor used from the 13th to the 18th century, including suits made for different distinguished personages; among these is that worn by the Prince of Wales, son of James I.; Henry VIII.; Dudley, earl of Leicester; Charles I.; and John of Gaunt; a suit worn at the Eglinton tournament, in 1839, by the Marquis of Waterford. From the Horse Armory you are conducted into Queen Elizabeth's Armory, filled with arms and relics: it is located within the walls of the White Tower, which are 14 feet thick. The room in which Sir Walter Raleigh was immured is here shown: he was confined three different times in the Tower, and here his son Carew was born. The block upon which Lord Lovat was beheaded is also shown. The Lion Tower, on the right as you enter, was for 600 years the royal menagerie: the few animals remaining were removed to the Zoological Gardens in the reign of William IV. On the way to the Jewel-house are some interesting specimens of cannon, etc. The Jewel-house contains all the crowvnjewels of England; they are inclosed in an immense case, around which you walk and listen to the description. Prominent among them is the crown made for the coronation of Queen Victoria, at an expense of about $600,000. Among the profusion of diamonds is the large ruby worn by the Black Prince; the crown made for the coronation of Charles II.; the crown of the Prince of Wales and that of the late Prince Consort; crown made for the coronation of the queen of James II., also her ivory sceptre. The coronation spoon, and bracelets, royal spurs, swords of Mercy and Justice, are among the other jewels. Here, too, is the silver-gilt baptismal font, in which is deposited the christening water for the royal children, and the celebrated Koh-i-noor diamond, the present property of Queen Victoria, and the object of great interest at the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park in 1851. It formerly belon red to Runjeet Singh, chief of Lahore, and was called the " Mountain of Light." The British Mulseum is a magnificent edifice, erected between 1828 and 1854, in the Grecian style of architecture. It is situated in Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, and is open to the public Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. It is closed from the 1st to the 7th of January, the 1st to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of September inclusive; also on Ash-Wednesday, Good-Friday, and on Christmas days. The hours are from 10 to 4 during January, February, November, and December; from 10 to 5 during March, April, September, and October; and from 10 to 6 during May, June, July, and August; also in summer, Saturday afternoons. The Medal and Print Room can only be seen by particular permission; the last named is closed on Saturdays. 201 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDoo. A catalogue should be purchased on entering (price one shilling). The British Museum may be said to have been founded by Sir Hans Sloane, who made an offer to the British Parliament of his then large library (1753) for the sum of one hundred thousand dollars, said to have cost one hundred and fifty thousand. This offer was accepted after his death, and the following large additions made to the library: First the sum of one and a half millions of dollars was raised by lottery; fifty thousand dollars paid for the Sloane Museum; the Royal Library of the Kings of England; fifty thousand dollars for the Harleian Collection; George III. presented a large and valuable collection of Egyptian antiquities in 1801; Major Edwards thirty-five thousand dollars and a large collection of books; the Reverend C. Cracherode's collection of books and prints, valued at two hundred thousand dollars; Garrick's large collection of plays. Large bequests were also made by Sir Joseph Banks, Sir William Musgrave, Dr. Birch, Thomas Tyrwhitt, and George III. There was also purchased by the British Museum the Elgin Marbles, valued at one hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars; Townley Marbles, valued at one hundred and forty thousand dollars; Phigalean Marbles, ninety thousand; Blaca's collection, valued at two hundred and forty thousand dollars; Dr. Burney's MSS., sixty-five thousand dollars; Lansdowne MSS. at twenty-five thousand, with numerous other collections. The ancient sculpture in this museum is considered the most perfect in Europe; commencing with the Egyptian, the specimens are very complete through the Assyrian, Grecian, and Roman. In one of the three halls devoted to the Egyptian Antiquities may be seen the celebrated Rosetta Stone, which furnished Dr. Young with the clew for deciphering the Egyptian hieroglyphics; the inscription it contains is three times repeated in hieroglyphics in a written character called Demotic, and in the Greek language; the stone is three feet long, two feet five inches broad, and about ten inches thick. It was found near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile by M. Bouchard, a French officer, and came into the hands of the English at the capitulation of Alexandria, one of the articles 202 of the capitulation being that all objects of art collected by the French Institute in Egypt should be delivered to the English. Notice specially the Elgin Marbles, so called fiom Lord Elgin, who, while embassador at the Porte, obtained firmans from the sultan to remove from Athens some of the finest specimens of Grecian sculpture. We hardly know whether the advantage that thousands have of seeing these specimens, who would not otherwise see them, will cancel the shameful act of him who asked for the firman or of him who granted it, for the removal of these specimens from whence they properly belonged. The Phigatean Marbles were found near the ancient city of Phigalea, in Arcadia. The jEgina Marbles are casts of groups taken from the Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius, in the island of AEgina. The Halicarnassus ilarbles are from that ancient city in Asia Minor. The Farnese IMarbles were purchased from the King of Naples. The minor objects of Egyptian Antiquity, the Etruscan, Bronze, Medal, and Mediceval Rooms, will all well repay an examination. The library of printed books exceeds (this year, 1871) 850,000, and is increasing at the rate of seventy-five thousand volumes yearly. Among the 1650 different editions of the Bible is the first issued from the press, called the Mazarine Bible. It is printed on vellum, in the Latin language, by Guttenberg and Faust, in 1455. The Reading-room is a magnificent apartment, circular, surmounted by a dome 140 feet in diameter, or one foot more than St. Peter's at Rome; it is 106 feet high, and has accommodation for three hundred readers, each with a desk. There are two tables exclusively set apart for ladies. This museum has the best zoological collection in the world. In the gallery of natural history is the skeleton of a gorilla, purchased from M. Du Chaillu. The MSS. rooms, print rooms, rooms devoted to mineralogand geology, will all be examined with great interest. The National Picture Gallery occupies the north side of Trafalgar Square, was founded in 1824, and the present building, which cost $500,000, was finished in 1838. Although not so large as many galleries LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. on the Continent, it contains numerous and embroideries, will well repay a visit gems. The Royal Academy, which for- of a whole day and evening. (You can obmerly occupied the eastern portion of this tain a good dinner at the restaurant, and building, was removed, in 1869, to Burling- the galleries are lighted at night.) There ton Gardens. is an Art Library, composed principally of The gallery is open to the public Mon- works of reference in painting and sculpdays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Satur- ture, which may be consulted. days, and to artistsThursdays and Fridays; The principal collections of paintings from 10 to 5 in winter, and from 10 to 6 in are the Sheepshanks collection, comprising summer. The last two weeks in Septem- 234 oil paintings; the Vernon collection, ber and the month of October it is closed 162 in number, and the Cartoons of Raphto the public. The National Gallery owes ael, from Hampton Court. There is alsof much of its importance to the numerous the large and valuable private collection bequests of artists and private gentlemen. belonging to Mrs. Henry T. Hope, loaned Mr.Vernon alone bequeathed 162 pictures, to the museum. The different collections known as the Vernon Gallery; these, how- were arranged in the present new building ever, have lately been removed to the in 1869. Notice specially the Prince AlTurner collection. The Kensington Mu- bert Gallery, which contains many objects seum was also a very valuable bequest. of great interest. Over the refreshment The government has done much for the rooms and retiring rooms for ladies is a gallery; many valuable gems have been theatre for the delivery of lectures. purchased for it. The number of pictures Among the Sheepshanks collection, is about 800. Among the paintings of which is composed principally of modern the Italian, Spanish, French, and Flemish British artists, are several gems of Landschools may be noticed, by Raphael, St. seer, Wilkie, and Leslie; also the Horse Catharine of Alexandria, cost ~5000; also Fair of Rosa Bonheur. Pope Julius II. Correggio's Holy Fam- The Vernon collection contains many ily, Ecce Homo, and Mercury instructing masterpieces of Gainsborough, Eastlake, Cupid, cost $50,000. Rubens's Judgment Landseer, and Turner. The seven carof Paris and Rape of the Sabines. Muril- toons by Raphael were executed in 1514 lo's Vision of a Knight, and Holy Family. by command of Leo X., as patterns for Paul Veronese's Family of Darius. Da tapestries in the Sistine Chapel. The subVinci's Christ disputing in the Temple. jects are: Christ's Charge to Peter; the Titian, Guido, Velasquez, Salvator Rosa, Death of Ananias; Peter and John at the Rembrandt, and others, are also represent- Beautiful Gate; Healing the Lame Man; ed. The Waterloo Vase, which stands in Paul and Barnabas at Lystra; Elymas the the hall, was captured from a French ship Sorcerer struck Blind; Paul Preaching at on her way from Carrara to Paris. Athens, and the Miraculous Draught of The rooms are eleven in number, but a Fishes. large property having recently been pur- The National Portrait Gallery has been chased in the rear of the gallery, a new removed to this museum temporarily. Exand more commodious building will soon amine the Meyrick Collection of Armor; be erected. also the Museum of Patents. South Kensington Museum, Brompton, The Royal Albert Hall of Arts was was founded in 1852 by the prince consort, opened by the queen in 1871. It is deand built on property purchased with the signed for public meetings, concerts, and surplus funds derived from the exhibition balls, and is capable of holding 15,000 peoof 1851. Admission free, Mondays, Tues- ple. It is built in the form of a circus, 200 days, and Saturdays, from 10 A.M. to 10 feet by 175, and is beautifully decorated. P.M. Students' days, Wednesday, Thurs- The queen laid the corner-stone May 20th, day, and Friday, from 10 to 4; on these 1868. It is situated a short distance from days sixpence admission fee. This large the Kensington Museum. and wonderfully interesting collection of Soane's Museum, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields. paintings, sculptures, jewels, porcelain, A most interesting collection of art. It is arms and armor, carvings in ivory, wood, open to visitors on Wednesdays, Thursand stone, ornamental furniture, tapestries, days, and Fridays, from 10 to 4 during the 203 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LoNDON. mnths of April, May, June, July, and August. The collection occupies twentyfour rooms, every portion of which is filled. One of the principal objects of attraction is an Egyptian sarcophagus, discovered by Belzoni in 1716, said to have been that of the father of Ramescs the Great. It was purchased by Sir John Soane for $10,000. Hogarth's celebrated series of eight pictures, entitled the Rake's Progress, are also in this museum, as well as his series of election pictures. Notice the set of Napoleon medals, formerly the property of the Empress Josephine. The East India Museum, India Office, Downing Street, open to the public from 10 to 4. It contains not only a curious collection of Oriental dresses, instruments, idols, trinkets, etc., but a collection of the chief natural productions of India, with specimens of the arts and manufactures of that country. The Royal College of Surgeons, Lincoln'sInn-Fields. Admittance by order from a member, Mondays,Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from 12 to 4, except September. The present building was erected in 1835, and cost $200,000. This collection, which contains upward of twenty thousand specimens, is arranged in two apartments, one the Physiological Department, the other the Pathological Department. There are some most remarkable specimens of monstrosity in nature in this building. Among these is a monstrous foetus, found in the abdomen of a lad of seventeen years. A female twin monster united crosswise; the mother was only seventeen years of age. The intestines of the Emperor Napoleon I., showing the progress of the disease of which he died. The skeleton of the Irish giant O'Brien, eight feet in height; and the skeleton of the Italian dwarf Caroline Crachami, twenty inches in height; also the skeleton of the huge elephant Chunee, formerly exhibited on Covent Garden stage, with many other objects of interest. Un erce seum, iteerce,Whitehall, founded in 1830. Admittance, only by mnemler's introduction or order, daily, from April to September, 11 to 5; October to April, 11 to 4. This museum is one of the most interesting in London. In addition to the nunmerou. relics it contains, specimens of all the different improved arms of the day 204 may be seen, from the steel siege gun of Krupp to the Henry Martine rifle (the latest invention); also specimens of shells from one yard in diameter down, with models of all the latest improvements in vessels of war, including a beautiful model of the unfortunate Captain. Also models, on a large scale, of the Battle of Waterloo, the Siege of Sevastopol, Battle of Trafalgar. A skeleton of Marengo, the Arab war-horse which Napoleon rode at the battle of Waterloo; the sword worn by General Wolf at the battle of Quebec; Captain Cook's chronometer; numerous Arctic relics of Sir John Franklin. Notice the stuffed figure, and read the curious history of the dog "Bob," which made the campaign of the Crimea. Museum (f Practical Geology, Jermyn Street. Open gratuitously every day, except Sunday and Friday, from 10 to 4. This valuable museum, which is a school of mines, was opened in 1851. Its collection illustrates the mineral products of Great Britain and her colonies; also the application of geology to practical purposes, with numerous models of mining machinery. Lectures are delivered during the season to working-men, illustrating the collection and the working of geology. Madame Tussaud's Wax-works, Baker Street, Portman Square. This very interesting collection of wax figures is open day and evening. The evening is the best time to visit it. Doors open from 10 to C, and fiom 8 to 12. Admittance, one shilling; to the chamber of horrors, 6d. extra. The principal objects of attraction are the carriages and relics of Napoleon, including the camp-bed on which he died; the reigning queen, with her children and prince consort; Wellington as he lay in state; the portrait gallery; and the wax figures of all the horrible murderers of modern times. Buckingham Palace, the residence of her majesty Queen Victoria, when in London, may be visited by obtaining a ticket from the lord chamberlain. It stands fit the west end of St. James's Park. The principal apartments are the throne-room, library, green drawing-room, sculpture gallery, in all of which are some fine paintings: the principal is a Rembrandt, for which 5000 guineas were paid by George IV. The interior of the palace is grand, LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDO A. but dark, and lamps are frequently kept lighted in many of the apartments through the day. In the garden is a very pretty summer-house, ornamented with frescoes by distinguished artists, such as Landseer, Maclise, and others. Queen Victoria resided at Buckingham, when in town, since 1837, up to the death of the Prince Consort. She has 1,625,000 dollars settled upon her yearly, all of which, with the exception of 300,000 dollars, is spent by the lord chamberlain and lord steward of the household, and other officers of the court. The picture-gallery contains a choice collection by first-class artists. The Royal Mews, close by, should be visited; to do so, obtain an order from the Master of the Horse. Here are kept all the state horses and carriages. St. James's Palace, the residence of the English sovereigns previous to Victoria's occupation of Buckingham Palace; the queen holds her drawing-rooms here, it being better adapted for the purpose than Buckingham. Of late years the Prince and Princess of Wales have been holding the " drawing-rooms" instead of the queen. It is by no means pleasing in its external appearance. This palace is rich in historical associations: George IV. was born here; so also was the son of James II. by Mary of Modena. It was currently reported that this child, afterward known as the Old Pretender, was not the son of the queen, but was conveyed to her bed in a warmingpan. Miss Vane, one of the maids of honor, was here delivered of a child, whosetather was Frederick, prince of Wales. Here died Mary I.; also Henry, son of James I.; here Charles I. took the last leave of his children; here Howard, husband of Mrs. Howard, countess of Suffolk, and mistress of George II., made a public demand for his wife, and was quieted by a pension of $6000. Every information respecting the mode of presentation will be cheerfully furnished by the American embassador. The seats in the chapel royal are appropriated to the nobility; and tickets, issued by the lord chamberlain, are very difficult to procure. Whitehall, the former palace of the kings of England from Henry VIII. to William III., is at present only represented by the Banqueting-house, designed by Inigo Jones. The whole palace was intended to have been built in the same style as the Banqueting-house, but the design was never carried out. The ceiling was painted on canvas by Rubens, and represents the apotheosis of James I. Charles I. was executed on a scaffold in front of this house. Marlborough House, Pall-Mall, St. James's, the residence of the Prince of Wales, was erected by the great Duke of Marlborough. It was bought by the crown in 1817 for the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold, subsequently King Leopold I. of the Belgians, who lived here many years; as did also Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV. Kensington Palace is a large building, the former residence of the Earl of Nottingham, purchased by William III. The upper story of the building was built by the same monarch. Queen Victoria was born here in 1819, and held here her first council in 1837. William III., Queen Mary, Queen Anne, and George III. all died here. Its famous collection of pictures has been divided amongst other palaces. PALACES AND MANSIONS Ol THE NOBILITY. Lambeth Palace, situated on the Thames, and nearly opposite the new houses of Parliament, is the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and dates back to the 13th century. The chapel is the oldest part of the edifice, which exhibits numerous varieties of architecture. Its library contains 25,000 volumes of well-selected books. The palace and library can be visited Mondays,Wednesdays, and Fridays, with order from the Archbishop. The income of the Archbishop of Canterbury, as head of the Church of England, is $60,000 per annum. The church adjoining the palace is the mother church of Lambeth, and here several of the archbishops are interred. Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, the city residence of the late Duke of Wellington from 1820 to 1852. The most important room is that facing Hyde Park; here the celebrated Waterloo banquets were held, at which the duke presided until the time of his death. The front windows of the house were covered with bullet-proof iron shutters, the windows having been broken by the London mob during the Reform Bill riots. The present duke had them removed in1855. Apsley House con* '206 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. tains many fine paintings by Wilkie, Teniers, Velasquez, Correggio, and others; among others, two full-length portraits of George IV., by Wilkie; full-length portraits of the different sovereigns of Europe; two of Napoleon; Van Amburg and the Lions, by Landseer; Christ on the Mount of Olives,by Correggio. This picture,which is painted on panel, was captured in the carriage of Joseph Bonaparte and restored to Ferdinand VII., who presented it to the duke. The celebrated Signing the Peace of Westphalia is also here. Stafford House is probably the finest private mansion in England. It was originally built for the Duke of York, son of George III., but was sold to the Duke of Sutherland in 1841. The dining-room is very large and exceedingly beautiful. The pictures are distributed throughout the house: there is one hall or gallery, however, devoted exclusively to paintings, containing works by Raphael, Guido, Titian, Velasquez, Tintoretto, Teniers, Poussin, and Watteau, and other first-class ancient and modern masters. Permission must be obtained froth the duke to visit the house. The Memorial, occupying the site of Temple Bar, consists of a solid base of granite 7 ft. 8 in. long by 5 ft. 2 in. wide, and 7 ft. high. The upper portion is adorned with bas-reliefs in bronze, representing old Temple Bar, a Royal Procession into the City, the Thanksgiving for the Recovery of the Prince of Wales, and the City insignia, with an inscription recording the object of the memorial. Upon the base is a structure, also oblong, supported by pilasters at its angles. The two wider sides, those looking north and south, have niches in which are statues of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. The pilasters are adorned with arabesques, and the entablature bears an inscription, Bridgewater House, the residence of the Earl of Ellesmere. The collection of pictures in the gallery is one of the most complete and valuable private collections in Europe. It was left by the Duke of Bridgewater in 1803 to the late Earl of Ellesmere, and contains over three hundred first-class pictures. Forty-seven of these are from the celebrated Orleans collection: there are four Raphaels, four Titians, five Domenichinos, five Rembrandts, three Rubens, seven Caraccis, two Guidos, eight Teniers, and other principal masters 206 in proportion. Days of admission, Mon. days, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 10 to 5. Cards of admission may be obtained at Messrs. Smith's, 137 New Bond Street. Grosvenor House, the town residence of the Marquis of Westminster, is situated in Upper Grosvenor Street. The house, though handsome, is principally noted for containing the celebrated Grosvenor collection of pictures, most of which were collected by Richard, first Earl of Grosvenor. Admission, only by order from the marquis, from 2 to 5 during the months of May and June. Rubens is here well represented. Devonshire House, Piccadilly; Montague House; Norfolk House; Holland House; Bath Iouse, the residence of Lord Ashburton; Mlanchester House, the residence of the Marquis of Hereford; House of Sir Robert Peel, have all got galleries of more or less importance, which, if the traveler have time, he should visit. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Bank of England-the most extensive banking institution in the world-situated north of the Royal Exchange: about 1000 clerks are constantly employed here, at salaries ranging from $250 to $6000 per annum. The buildings are rather low, and peculiar in appearance; they, with the courts, include an area of about eight acres. Many of the offices are open to visitors, but the private ones can only be visited by an orderfrom a director: the most interesting apartments are the bullion office,weighing office, treasury, and the apartment where the bank-notes are printed: here is a steam-engine, which moves printing-machines, plate-presses, etc., and, from its beautiful movement, forms a very interesting sight. The management of the bank is invested in a governor, deputy governor, and twenty-four directors. Notice especially the remarkable weighing machines. Royal Exchange is situated on Cheapside, and was opened by Queen Victoria October 28th, 1844. The building cost $900,000. The Exchange consists of an open court surrounded by a colonnade, in which are statues of Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth, Sir Thomas Gresham, and Sir Hugh Myddleton. In the rear of the Exchange LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. is a statue of the.merican banker, George Peabody, seated in a chair; it is by the American sculptor, Story. Up one flight of steps in the eastern portion of the building are Lloyds Subscription Rooms, where "merchants most do congregate." All merchants, shippers, underwriters, in fact every one engaged to any extent in business in the city, are members, and here is discussed all news, political, foreign, conmmercial, or local. The number of subscribers is about two thousand. Admission, $125; annual dues, $21; if an underwriter, $52 50. The llansion House, the residence of the lord mayor, is situated between Cheapside and Lombard Street. It was erected between 1739 and 1741, and cost about $350,000. It is decorated with statues by modern artists. The principal hall is called the Egyptian Hall, and here, on Easter Monday, the lord mayor gives a banquet and ball to some three hundred and fifty persons. The lord mayor is elected from the board of aldermen every 29th of September, serving for one year only; his salary is $40,000, but he generally spends much more. The lord mayors, in all city celebrations, take precedence of members of the royal family. The entire city is under his charge. The "Mayor's Show" has ceased since 1867 to attract much attention. Now, on the day he is installed in office (9th of November), the procession starts from Guildhall at a trot, and, escorted by cavalry, passes through Cheapside, Ludgate Hill, Fleet Street, and Strand to Westminster Hall, where he is sworn in by one of the barons of the Exchequer, and then returns by the same route to preside over the mayoralty dinner at Guildhall. Guildhall is situated at the foot of King Street, Cheapside. The principal hall, which is used for public meetings of the citizens, is 150 feet long by 50 broad, and contains some ordinary monuments. The two giants in the hall, known as Gog and Magog, were formerly carried in the procession on the " Mayor's Show" day. The common council chamber contains numerous portraits and statues; in this hall the inayor gives his inauguration dinner, at which the government ministers and great law officers of the crown attend. The banquet usually costs over ten thousand dollars, half of which the mayor pays; the other half is paid by the two sheriffs. The library of Guildhall contains 30,000 volumes. GeneralPost-oice, St. Martin's-le-Grand, is a spacious building, in Ionic style, with lofty central portico. The establishment employs more than 20,000 clerks, carriers, etc., in different parts of the United Kingdom; about 600 millions of letters are delivered annually-150 millions in London alone, in addition to 74,000,000 newspapers and 8,000,000 book parcels. The annual postage revenue amounts to $17,500,000. The Custom-house is situated in Lower Thames Street, facing the river. It was erected between 1814 and 1817. Almost one half the custom dues of the United Kingdom, which amount to some hundred millions of dollars, are collected in London. Liverpool, which is the next principal city, only collects one fifth as much as London. Some 2400 clerks are employed,at an expense of $1,400,000. Somerset House is situated in the Strand, and is a very large and handsome edifice. It was erected on the site of the Palace of the Protector Somerset, and is used for government offices, such as the Audit Office, office of the Registrar General, the Inland Revenue Office, and a branch of the Admiralty, the principal office being in Whitehall. Burlington House, in Piccadilly, formerly the residence of the Lords of Burlington. It was purchased by the government in 1854 for seven hundred thousand dollars. The whole has been reconstructed; on the site of the gardens have been erected the Hall of Science, containing apartments for all learned societies, the new academy exhibition rooms of the Royal Academy of Art. In addition to the council-room, offices, and schools of drawing, there are thirteen halls where the annual exhibition of modern artists in painting and sculpture takes place. There is also a hall where the annual banquet is held, and a theatre for lectures and the distribution of prizes. The annual exhibition of pictures by living artists opens the first Monday in May, and is open for three months. No one artist can send more than eight pic. tures; an amateur only one. Pictures are forwarded one month before the opening 207 LOxNDCO. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. of the exhibition. All pictures are examined by a council, which decides whether the work is entitled to a place in the exhibition. The University of London is also in the gardens of Burlington House. It was founded in 1837, and ranks first among the educational establishments of the metropolis; the building is one of the handsomest modern edifices in London. This university has nothing to do with the business of education, it being established only for the purpose of conferring degrees on graduates of different London colleges. The Royal Mint, on Tower Hill, will well repay a visit to witness the powerful yet delicate machinery for stamping and cutting coin.. An order must be obtained in writing from the Master of the Mint; the order must be used on the day for which it is issued, and in making application you must state the name, address, and number of persons in the party. The Treasury Buildings, Whitehall, situated between the Horse Guards and Downing Street. This is the office of the Lord Hi ih Treasurer, who is the prime minister of England; his salary is $25,000 per annum. All the great money transactions of the state are arranged here. In these buildings are also the Foreign Office, Privy Council Office, Home Office, and Colonial Office. Horse Guards, at Whitehall, the headquarters of the commander-in-chief of the British army, who has a salary of about $17,300 per annum. The archway through the building is only opened for royal personages when entering St. James's Park, on each side of which a cavalry soldier stands sentry from 10 to 4. The offices of the quartermaster general and adjutant general are also here. Officers' commissions are bought and sold in England. There is a prospect now of the rule being abolished. The price of a lieutenant colonels commission in the Guards is $36,250; an ensign of the same, $6000; a lieutenant colonel's commission in the line is $22,500; an ensign's commission in the line, $2250. A private Life Guardsman has about 50 cents per day; in the line, 28 cents. Stock Exchange, Capel Court, built in 1853, immediately in front of the Bank; the members are about 900 in number, and 208 are all elected yearly, each member paying fifty dollars per annum; members are elected by ballot by a committee of thirty, which is also elected yearly. Foreigners must reside in England five years before they are eligible to election. A bankrupt can not be elected unless he pays one third of his debts. All the stock transactions of the kingdom are carried on in this establishment. The usual commission charged by a broker on the purchase or sale of stocks is one eighth per cent. The Schools, Colleges, and Learned Societies of London are very numerous, some of which will well replay a visit. Among the principal are the Royal Academy!f Music, Society of Antiquarians, Royal Institution of British Architects, Institution of Civil Engineers, Royatl Horticultural Society, Geol gical Society of Loond, The Herld's College, Roygal College of Physicians, Saint Paul's School, Westminster School, established by Queen Elizabeth in 1560, The Clarter House (hospital and school-house), Christ's Hospital, or the "Blue-Coat School," so called from the color of the boys' clothes, Government School of Design, and City of London School. The Hospitals of London are numerous, well conducted, and richly endowed. In addition to Greenwich Hospital, mentioned in "Excursion in the Vicinity of London," the principal are, Bethlehem Hospital, St. Thomas Hospital, St. Bartholomew's Hospit tal, Guy's Hospital. The Foundling Hospital, in Guilford Street. This establishment should be visited on Sundays after morning service, when the children are at dinner. There are numerous other hospitals and charitable institutions, amounting to over one thousand in number, of which we can take no note. We must, however, allude to the magnificent charities of our countryman, the late George Peabody, who in 1864 gave $750,000 to build lodging-houses for the poor of London, augmented afterward to $2,500,000. A portion of this amount has been expended in purchasing land and building model lodging-houses for the poor. The buildings are five stories high, and are located at Westminster, Islington, Shadwell, Chelsea, and Spitalfields. The rooms are let at from $1 25 per week for three rooms, to 62 cts. for one room. The trustees of the gift are the LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. American embassador, the Earl of Derby, i sewer, which empties itself some distance Sir Stafford Northcote, J. S. Morgan, Esq., below the city, and alongside runs the Metand Sir Curtis Lampson. ropolitan Railway. The principal Bridges of London are Ilolborn Viaduct is a remarkably fine London Bridge, built of granite between specimen of engineering. It was intend1825 and 1831, at a cost of ten millions of ed to relieve the traffic which passed over dollars. It is 900 feet long and 54 wide. Holborn Hill. Was opened by the queen The lamp-posts are made from cannon in person in 1869. It crosses Farringdon taken during the Peninsular War. Over Street (a great thoroughfare), resting on 100,400 persons pass over this bridge ev- red granite piers. ery twenty-four hours. It is the lowest The principal Docks of London are St. bridge, or that nearest the sea. Catharine's Docks, situated near the TowThe next in order is the Southeastern er, covering an area of twenty-four acres, Ralwa(y Bridge, by which Charing Cross eleven of which are water. The cost of is connected with Cannon Street terminus. i this immense undertaking was over eight Blackfriars Bridge, constructed between millions ofdollars. Twelve hundred houses 1864 and 1869, of iron, 1270 feet long and were pulled down to make room for them. 75 wide. London Docks cover ninety acres, thirtyNear to this is the London, Chathm, and four of which are water, the rest being Dover Bridge, constructed for that railroad. warehouses and vaults. The entire cost Hlungerford L ridge, built of iron in 1863 was over twenty millions of dollars. The for the Charing-Cross Railway station. East India Docks cover an area of thirtyFoot passengers alone cross. four acres. There are also the West India Waterloo Bi ide is a splendid specimen Docks, Victoria Docks, Commercial Docks, of substantial architecture. It was built Surrey Docks, and Millwall Docks. by a private company between 1811 and j The Railway Stations of London are nu1817. It is 1380 feet long and 43 wide. merous and magnificent. The Midland The toll is one cent, which amounts, for Railway Company, whose system extends foot passengers, to $50,000 per annum, to all the principal cities of England, is Westminster Bridge, the most elegant of one of the best conducted lines in Europe. all the London bridges, was finished in The span of the great shed is the widest 1862. It is constructed of iron, on stone that has yet been erected, 700 feet long, pie.rs; is 1160 feet long and 85 wide, prob- 248 wide, and 100 high, covering ten acres ably the widest in the world. From this of ground. There are eleven lines of rails, bridge the best view can be had of the riv- and a cab-stand twenty-five feet wide. In er front of the beautiful houses of Parlia- the construction of this building 60,000,000 ment. bricks were used, 80,000 cubic feet of dressThere is also Lanle h Bridge, Vaerhall, ed stone, and over 9000 tons of iron. Pimlico Railway bridye, and Pimlico Sus- The new Liverpool Street station of the pension Bridge. Great Eastern Railway, opened in NovemThe Thames Tunnel, beneath the bed of her, 1875, is the largest station of any comthe Thames, was originally intended for pany in London, having ten platforms carriages. It was commenced in 1825, and capable of accommodating thirteen trains finished and opened to the public in 1843. i at the same time. Trains run in and out Brunel was the a chitect. Its total cost of this station every few minutes throughwas nearly two and a half million dollars. out the day. This is the terminus of the It is now used as a railway, connecting main lines to Yarmouth, Norwich, Camthe lines on the north with those on the bridge, Ipswich, etc. From this station south of the Thames (see p. 67). I also depart the Continental Express trains The Thames Embankment is a magnifi- in connection with the steamers for the cent structure, consisting of a hewn gran- Continent via Harwich. Having direct rail ite wall protecting an elegant quay re- communication with all parts of England, claimed from the river. This promenade it possesses greater facilities for passenger is upward of one hundred feet wide, ex- traffic than any other station in the world. tending from the Westminster Bridge to The Great Western Railway Company's Blackfriars. Beneath this is the principal station, which, with its beautiful hotel, was 209 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. completed in 1856, is also well worth a visit; but one must come in or go out of this station (the Paddington) if intending to visit the leading objects of interest in England or Wales. Travelers are recommended to take this line, the most direct if visiting Oxford, Leamington, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon, Bath, Bristol, North or South Wales, Exeter, Torquay, Plymouth, and West of England generally. It has a reputation for carefulness and general good management. The Victoria station is also a large and beautiful structure. Brighton and South Coast is also an admirably managed line. It has a station at London Bridge. Charing-Cross station and hotel is a large and imposing structure. This station is connected with the Cannon Street terminus in the city, a fine building. The London, Chatham and Dover, and London and Northwestern, have stations in the city. THE CLUBS OF LONDON. The clubs of London are larger in number, more elegant in point of architecture, than in any other city in the world. They are nearly all situated in Pall Mall or St. James's Street, which locality is usually called "Club Land." They are about thirty-one in number, and average from two thousand to five hundred members. Athenuum Club (an elegant building) is situated in Pall Mall. This is essentially a literary and scientific club. The members are chosen by ballot: one black ball In ten excludes. Number of members, 1200. Entrance fee, $130; annual fee, $37. The Carlton Club is situated on the south side of Pall Mall, and is the most beautiful club-house in London. It contains 800 members, in addition to members of the House of Lords and Commons. Entrance fee, $80; annual fees, $50. Conservative Club, situated on the west side of St. James's Street. This club was opened in 1845, and cost $866,000. Its interior is most elegant and commodious. It has 1500 members. Entrance fee, $131; annual fees, $42. Carlton Junior is also situated in Pall Mall. It is a beautiful and commodious building; was erected to accommodate the overflow from the Carlton. Its internal arrangements are most complete. It has some 1200 members. 210 Reform Club is a large and elegantlyfinished building, situated next to the C'a lton Club; was founded in 1t 5) by the Liberal members of both houses of Parliament; contains 1000 members, in addition to members of Parliament. It acquired a great reputation for its cooking. The celebrated Soyer was for a long time its maCire d'h6te. Army and Navy Club, also in Pall Mall, an exquisitely-finished house; it has 1500 members, and cost $500,000. Its "morning-room," smoking-room, and kitchen are probably the best in the city. Its entrance fee is $150, and annual dues $33. Brooks's Club, founded over one hun. dred years ago. It is situated in Pall Mall, and is a most aristocratic institution. It was first kept by Almack, and was celebrated for heavy gambling. Its members are 575: this number can not be exceeded. Its politics are Whig. Its members are very select, two black balls excluding. White's Club is the reverse in politics of Brooks's (Tory), and has also been noted for the heavy gambling of its members, nearly all of whom are wealthy. It is situated in St. James's Street, and numbers 550 members. The arms of the club are very singular: the supporters are two knaves of clubs, and the crest a hand shaking a dice-box. They were designed by Horace Walpole and George Selwyn. The wealth of its members may be inferred from the dinner they gave, June 20, 1814, to the allied sovereigns of Europe, then in England, which cost fifty thousand dollars. Three weeks later they gave a dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost nearly thirteen thousand dollars. Utiited Service Club, situated in Pall Mall, contains 1500 members. Officers arc not eligible for election under the rank of colonel or captain in the navy. The clubhouse is commodious and elegant. Garrick Club, situated in New King Street, Covent Garden, was founded in 1831 by gentlemen interested in the drama -authors, actors, and others-and named after David Garrick, the actor. The initiation fee is $105; yearly fees, $31. The collection of theatrical portraits and other paintings connected with the profession is large and exceedingly interesting. They may be seen every Wednesday, between 11 and 3, on introduction by a member. LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. University Club, situated in Pall Mall, the great horse-market of London. Sales contains 1000 members-five hundred from take place every Monday. The Jockey Oxford and five hundred from Cambridge. Club have a subscription-room here; Entrance fee, $130; annual fee, $30. days of meeting, Monday and Thursday. Oxford and Cambridge Club, situated in Pall Mall, has five hundred members from each university. The other clubs are the Alpine, Boodle's, City of London, Cocoa, Guards, Gresham, Theatres and other places of amusement New City, Naval and Military, Oriental, in London are very numerous. There are Travelers', Union, New University, Whit- some thirty in number, situated in differtington, Portland, and A rlington. ent locations in the city. The principal The Markets of London are numerous, are ler M(jesty's Theatre, Haymarket, for and well supplied with the staples of life. Italian Opera. They lack, however, the multiplicity of Covent Garden Theatre, the Royal Italvegetables found in a New York or Paris ian Opera. This is the finest theatre in market. The principal is the Metropolitan London, and will hold comfortably 2000 Cattle-market, opened by Prince Albert in persons. 1855. It covers thirty acres of ground, Drury Lane Theatre, the oldest, and one half of which is inclosed, furnishing ac- of the best. It can accommodate 3800 commodation for over fifty thousand cattle, persons. sheep, calves, and pigs. The building cost Haymarket Theatre holds about 2000 about two and a quarter millions of dollars. persons; a fine company. Drama, vaudeThe average weekly sales here are, cattle ville, and farce. Mr. Sothern has per3500, and sheep 35,000. formed Lord Dundreary here for many The Metropolitan Meat-market is situated years to crowded houses. in Smithfield. It is a handsome building Opera Comique, a beautiful new theatre, of red brick, in the Renaissance style. Its the handsomest in the city, opened in 1870. roof is of iron and glass. It covers about American managers. three and a half acres of ground. There is The Gayety, on the Strand, fine house, also a poultry-market attached. It cost well ventilated, and admirable company. one million dollars, and was finished in Adelphi Theatre, situated on the Strand, 1868. Smithfield Market is noted for the holds 1500. Drama and farce. historical importance of the spot: numer- Globe Theatre, also on the Strand. Pretous martyrs were here burned at the stake; ty little theatre and good company. Wallace, the " hero of Scotland," was also Princess's Theatre, 73 Oxford Street. executed here. It was noted for its jousts British drama. This is one of the most and tournaments. successful theatres in London, mostly owBillingsg.ite, noted as the great fish-mar- ing to the immense success of Dion Bouciket of London. It is situated below Lon- cault's dramatic writings, which are prodon Bridge, on the left bank of the Thames, duced at this theatre. We strongly adand has for nearly two hundred years been vise all Americans to visit this theatre the fish-market of the city. The coarse- when Mr. Boucicault's pieces are performness of the language used by the occupants ed; the dramatic effect is simply magnifiof this market has become so proverbial cent. The theatre holds about 1600 people. that, wherever the English tongue is spok- I The Lyceum, or English Opera - house, en, profane and vulgar language is termed situated on the Strand. Holds 1500. '"Bilingygate." St. James's, under the management of Covent Garden Market is the great vege- Mrs. John Wood, so well known in Ameritable, fruit, and herb market of the city. ca. Pretty theatre and good company. (See Covent Garden Square.) Prince Elf Wales's. Good company. Leadenhall Market, situated in Grace- Sadler's Wells is situated in Islington. church Street, noted for its poultry, butter, Holds 2800, and has a good company. vegetables, etc. Also Farringdon Market There are also the Olympic, Holburn and Newgate Market. Theatre and IIolburn Circus, New Royalty Tattersall's, in Knightsbridge Green, is Queen's, Alexandra, Marylebone, Surrey, 211 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. Britannia, Victoria-large theatre-holds There are numerous other places of 3000; Astley's, Standard, and Grecian. amusement for young men who wish to see The Alhambra, in Leicester Square, used " life," such as the Cassino, Argyle Rooms, for concerts, songs, etc. Alhambra, Pavilion, Oxford, Canterbury, A visit should be made to the old Gate and Evans's. The Pavilion, in the Hayand Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, near market, stands unrivaled as a music-hall Smithfield Dead-Meat Market. It is now and as a favorite lounge. None but firsta Masonic head-quarters. It was here that rate artistes are engaged. There are six the first magazine was started (the Gentle- American bowling saloons. man's Magazine, a complete set of which It would be well to endeavor to be in Lonmay be seen on the premises); and here don in the early part of June, to witness Dr. Johnson, Goldsmith, Cave, Garrick, and the "Derby Day." The races take place kindred spirits used toassemble and debate. at Epsom. The houses of Parliament are Johnson's chair and other relics may be seen always closed on the day of the races, and attherestaurant. The Gate is 700 ears old. a general " Fourth of July" pervades the Cremorne Gardens,Chelsea, may be visit- dity. To visit the course there are several ed by omnibus, running through Piccadilly ways. If with a party, say six persons, by all day. They formerly belonged to Lord all means go in "style"-coach and four, Crcmorne, and are most tastefully laid out with outriders. This, with your ticket to with flower-beds, and ornamented with the stand, will cost from $10 to $12 each. statues and little bowers, where refresh- Of course, you will carry a lunch with you. ments are procured. In the evening the If alone, you may take your chance in a Gardens are illuminated, and various per- public conveyance, or take the train for formances are offered to visitors, such as Epsom from Waterloo Bridge or from Vicballets and pantomimes, in the little thea- toria Station. tre, and fire-works, rope-dancing, and some- On the Ascot Cup Day, the Prince and times a circus, with the customary perform- Princess of Wales, and other members of ing monkeys, dogs, etc. One of the great the royal family, visit the course. Ascot attractions is the invisible Sibyl, who will, is five miles from Windsor, and the road for a small compensation, relat the events theretg, through Windsor Great Park, is of the past and future, and satisfy the cu- one of unsurpassing loveliness. Windsor rious upon the most ambiguous subjects. is reached in about 35 minutes by train Amon<- the attractions also is the celebra- from Paddington, Great Western Railway. ted dancing platform, where the polka, waltz, and quadrilles are directed in an artistic manner by competent musicians. ALEXANDRA PALACE. Dinner a la carte can be obtained from This establishment was first opened on noon until night at the hotel which opens the 24th of May, 1873; but the Palace was into the Gardens. unfortunately destroyed by fire, in the short Kew Gardens, in addition to the above, space of only two hours, on the 9th of June is also a delightful spot: it can be reached following. During that brief fortnight in summer bv steamer every half hour, or the Alexandra Palace attracted 124,124 by omnibuses from the city. The most at- visitors-a number more than sufficient to tractive object at Kew is the celebrated convince the directors that it could not Botanic Gard-ns, extending over 75 acres fail to be permanently successful. They of ground. The plants are of the rarest accordingly set themselves energetically quality, arranged and labeled by Sir Wil- to work to restore the building, with such li:;m Hooker. The great pdlm-house con- improvements as could be devised to avoid tains exotics reaching to a height of 60 a similar catastrophe. On the first of feet. An inclosed conservatory, twice as May, 1875, the Palace was reopened by large as the palm-house, is now being con- the Lord Mayor of London with a state structed, and a lake is being formed which ceremonial; and in the six months followcommunicates with the Thames by a tun- ing, to the end of October, it was visited nel under the river terrace. This deli.ht- by 1,307,857 persons, and a balance of ful spot is open to the public every after- ~23,024 18s. 4d. carried to the credit of aoon, Sundays included. the revenue account. 212 LONDOn. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. The extreme length of the Palace is 945 feet, with a width of 450 feet. It is substantially built of white and colored bricks, with imposing facades both to the north and the south. At each angle of the building is a lofty square tower, surmounted by a Mansard roof, which forms a great water reservoir; and each of these great tanks is capable of storing 16,000 gallons of water; while at the angles of the great central hall there are four other reservoirs, with a capacity of 7000 gallons each; the whole of these being constantly supplied by steampumps from the reservoirs of the New River Company near the Palace. The central hall, above mentioned, extends 386 feet from north to south, by 184 feet from east to west, and is richly decorated. It has an arched roof, supported by columns, at the bases of which are a series of life-size statues of the kin s and queens of England, from William the Conqueror to Queen Victoria, in the costumes of the periods in which they reigned, elaborately colored and gilt. At the north end of this hall is a spacious orchestra, with a magnificent and powerful organ; and here musical celebrations on the largest scale are carried out with great effect. Adjacent to the central hall will be found, to the east, a theatre, accommodating 3000 visitors, in which dramatic and operatic performances are regularly given, and a grand pantomime at Christmas; and to the west a concert-room of corresponding dimensions. An orchestral band of the highest excellence is permanently maintained. During the summer season there is a first-rate military band, and an efficient and highly trained chorus is at the constant service of the company; and, with these important aids, the best works of Handel, Mozart, Auber, Bellini, Gounod, Balfe, Wallace, Offenbach, and other composers, have been most efficiently rendered. Handel's oratorio, "Esther," has been most successfully performed for the first time in the present century. Sir Michael Costa, Sir Julius Benedict, Mr. H. Weist Hill, and Mr. Robert Wheatley have most ably conducted these musical displays. In the theatre the standard plays of Shakspeare, Sheridan, Goldsmith, Colman, etc., as well as those of more modern authors, have been represented by the best actors on the London boards. The minor attractions offered by Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, the Moore and Burgess Minstrels, and other popular favorites, together with attractive ballets, have also drawn many visitors to the Palace. It is impossible to enumerate in the limited space at our disposal all the attractions of the Alexandra Palace. A magnificent collection of oil paintings and water-color drawings, British and foreign, is exhibited in a series of splendid and well-lighted picture-galleries. Space is devoted to the exhibition of choice works of art-manufacture by the most eminent producers of the country; and there is an attractive bazaar for the sale of elegant and pleasing works, from the most costly to the cheapest kind. In connection with this portion of the Palace may be mentioned models of a modern Moorish and a modern Egyptian house, with representations of the inhabitants in full costume, and all the actual furniture and fittings of these interesting dwellings. At the west end of the building is a great conservatory of tropical plants, with a splendid aviary of British andforeign birds; and adjacent to these a spacious room is devoted to the exhibition of the finest collection of ancient arms and armor now in England. This collection, which is most extensive and complete, was formed by the late Lord Londesborough, and is exhibited by permission of the present peer. There is also a marvelous collection of specimens of natural history, which it has been the labor of a lifetime on the part of Dr. Whitfield, of St. Thomas's Hospital, to collect. An extensive collection of works in sculpture, both ancient and modern, adorns the various courts and avenues of the building. On the south side is a reading-room, luxuriously appointed, and supplied with an almost unlimited number of newspapers, magazines, and other periodicals, together with every appliance for reading and writing, chess tables, and other accommodation. Connected with this department it is intended to form a school of art, science, and literature; and already classes for the study of vocal and instrumental music, under most eminent professors, have been successfully established. One of the most important departments of the Alexandra Palace is that devoted to refreshments, under the able management of Messrs. Bertram & Roberts. Within the building are a number of admirably 213 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. fitted buffets for the supply of light refreshments. Large rooms are devoted to hot and cold luncheons and dinners; and many rooms are appropriated to private dinners, which are served in the best style. There is also, on an upper story facing the Alexandra Park, a grand dining-saloon, 200 feet by 55 feet, capable of accommodating 1000 guests, and here, October 25, 1875, the great banquet to the survivors of the famous Balaklava charge was given. In the park there is another banquetinghall, 195 feet long by 54 feet wide. The Palace stands upon a lofty hill, commanding a most magnificent panoramic view, and extending over many hundreds of miles. The Crystal Palace and the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral are clearly visible to the south on a clear day; to the west the heights of Hampstead and Highgate form a most attractive picture; while to the north and east Middlesex, Hertfordshire, and Essex unfold the beauties of English landscape. The park which surrounds the Palace comprises 200 acres of land, which has been most ably laid out in roads and drives by which visitors can reach the Palace with ease, and tastefully planted with shrubs, evergreens, and flowerbeds; a constant supply of these being provided from an extensive series of well-devised greenhouses. The southern side of the park is chiefly devoted to sporting purposes. A racecourse, a mile and a furlong in extent, supplies amusement to a large number of spectators. A trotting-ring of the best kind has been formed, and many trotting and bicycle races have been run with great success. The cricket ground is the best in or near London; facilities are afforded for archery meetings, and a swimming-bath of noble proportions has been provided. To the north of the Palace a spacious lake affords accommodation for boating, under most efficient management; and here a water village, designed by Dr. Dresser, is a peculiar feature of attraction. From the summit of this fairy-like structure, which rises to a height of about 100 feet, one of the most beautiful views which the situation commands is obtained. The mode in which diving and other submarine operations are conducted are daily exhibited in the pavilion established under the superintendence of M. Denayrouze. A circus of noble S214 dimensions affords the means of giving equestrian, acrobatic, and similar performances on a large scale. Near the west end of the Palace a'Japanese village has been erected of Japanese materials by native workmen, and here, as well as in the Palace, Japanese goods of undoubted authenticity and excellence are exhibited and sold. Near this an unequaled collection of agaves, cacti, and other tropical plants are exhibited in a house specially constructed for the purpose. In the same neighborhood is a secluded portion of the grounds, formerly belonging to a large house, now pulled down, and called " The Grove;" and here the lover of Nature mav find the highest possible gratification in the contemplation of cedars, hollies, laurels, firs, chestnuts, elms, oaks, and other noble trees -many of them of great age, but still in their pristine vigor. Minor amusements are provided without stint for juvenile visitors; and, in fact, the tastes and comfort of all, from infancy to old age, have been anxiously cared for by the promoters of this undertaking. There is an excellent gymnasium, free to all comers, and jaunting-cars for trips up the ascent and around the grounds of the Palace. Balloon ascents have been successfully made from the park, and firework displays of great magnitude and splendor have added to the attractions of the establishment. Fruit shows, flower shows, a potato show, horse shows, poultry shows, a dog show, and pigeon flights have been held with great success. A Scottish f6te, the festivals of the Royal Dramatic College, the Foresters, the OddFellows, the Temperance Societies, and the Licensed Victualers' School and Asylum, have been held; and an exhibition of metropolitan cabs and cab-horses, from its novelty and Excellence, attracted considerable notice. The visit of the Band of the Garde Republicaine of France (the "Guides") added much to the amount raised in Eni gland in aid of the sufferers from the great inundations in France. In addition to the extensive area occupied by the Palace and devoted to out-door enjoyment in the park, the company is fortunate in the possession of 300 acres of freehold land to the north, available for building purposes-an important element in the financial prospects of the undertaking. For admission to all these varied attracA LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. tions the charge for an annual season ticket is only one guinea, including the right of participation in a distribution, on the ArtUnion principle, of valuable works of art. To reach the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, take the cars at London Bridge Station. The fare, including price of admission to the palace, first class, 2s. 6d.; second class, 2s. The view from the palace is one of the most lovely in Great Britain, or perhaps in the world, taking into consideration its immediate surroundings. The gardens are most delightful; their beautiful walks, serpentine streams, statues, fountains, and lawns, render it unsurpassable. There is a portion of the building appropriated to tropical trees and plants; to courts of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman sculpture; to courts of Assyria, Alhambra, Germany, and Italy; ccpies of the masterpieces of all the great sculptors of both ancient and modern times; and those who can not visit Florence and Rome to see the works of Michael Angelo and other great masters may here see their reproduction. The Royal Aquarium, erected in 1875, and formally opened by H.R.H. the Duchess of Edinburgh in January, 1876, stands upon classic ground, the southeastern corner abutting as nearly as possible upon the site of the house in the Old Almonry once bccupied by Caxton. The building, now completed, occupies an irregular parallelogram of nearly three acres, extending from Prince's Street on the east to the corner of Dartmouth Street. Its south front faces Tuthill Street, while behind, on the north, it recedes nearly to the backs of the houses in Queen Street. It is supposed to cover a part of what was once a branch of the River Thames, which helped to form Thorney Island, on which the Abbey stands. All Americans who have traveled in Europe can not fail to appreciate the importance of having one central address for mails from the United States. Delays arising frbm change of route and other unexpected revisions of plans are thus obviated, a fixed address giving to the traveler the advantages of settled headquarters for correspondence, messages, etc. London is unquestionably the best point for establishing this position. On the direct line of mail service to Europe, its postal and telegraph arrangements are superior to those VOL. I.-K of any other city. It is the first central point reached from the Atlantic side, in direct telegraphic communication with every part of Europe, and within 24 hours of the chief landmarks of travel and commerce. Under the new postal treaty, letters, newspapers, etc., on which the postage is correctly prepaid, can be re-addressed and re-mailed from London to any country within the Postal Union without any additional cost. London, for all purposes of trade, commerce, inquiry, science, art, literature, and pleasure, is practically the centre of the Old World. It is the storehouse of knowledge, and on the road to everywhere; it is the headquarters of all systems of Continental travel; it has the promptest means and methods of communication with every quarter of the universe. While London is thus the central point of the European system, Charing Cross is the centre of London; and it is here that the traveler can most satisfactorily fix himself. In order to give the traveling public the full advantage of these conveniences, the following special facilities are offered at the American Exchange and Reading-rooms, 449 Strand, directly opposite the Charing Cross Continental Railway Station, and the recognized official geographical centre of London. There are 58 days in the year on which all London bankers, banks, and similar institutions, with the exception of the American Exchange and Reading-rooms, 449 Strand, are closed. These days are as follows, viz.: Sundays, Christmas-Day, GoodFriday, and bank holidays, viz., BoxingDay (December 26), Easter-Monday,WhitMonday, and the first Monday in August. Here a point is made, as in the case of the usual arrival of mails on Saturday night, to facilitate in every way the prompt delivery of letters. The following are selected as worthy of recommendation among the best houses in London: Boots and Shoes.-Waukenphast & Co., 59, 60, and 61 Haymarket, have a large and varied stock of first-class ready-made articles, besides fulfilling orders. Breadshaw's.-Travelers should not fail to be provided with Bradshaw's British and Continental Railway and Steam Navigation Guides, published monthly, by W. 215 LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. J. Adams & Sons, 59 Fleet Street, where all information of interest to American travelers can be obtained. Numerous articles for which England is celebrated, both for quality and cheapness, and very essential to travelers, can be bought at this establishment; also traveling-bags, maps, water-proof coats, etc., dictionaries of foreign languages, Hand- books, including H arper's Hand -book for Travelers, and Phrase-book. Chemists.-The best house in London is Roberts, 76 New Bond Street. China (Minton,Worcester,etc.).-Messrs. W. P. & G. Philipps, 357, 358, and 359 Oxford Street, London, offer a large variety of artistic and moderate-priced services from the best manufactories, reproductions of old patterns, etc., ornaments of every description, and a great variety of glass services. Their warehouse will well repay a visit. Chronometers anl TWatches.-The old and celebrated house of Ch. Frodsham & Co., at 84 Strand, W. C., still offer the very finest watches and chronometers to be bought in London, and of every possible description. This house superintends her Majesty's clocks at Buckingham Palace. Cigars and Tobacco.-The very best brands are to be obtained at Messrs. Benson & Hedges, 13 Old Bond Street, close to the Burlington Arcade. They are purveyors to H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, etc. Costumes, Mantles, and Laces.-A house having the very highest reputation in this business is certainly the London General Mourning Warehouse of the Messrs. Jay, 243-253 Regent Street (Regent Circus, close to the Langham). Every thing is of the very best quality and sold at reasonable prices. Their elegant silk costumes, cut by Parisian fitters, never fail to give satisfaction; are finished with care and the greatest promptitude, and represent the correct fashions of the season. A large stock of hats from the best artistes in Paris is also always on hand. The gloves of this house have a deservedly good name. Exchange Office.-Hands & Co., 16 Strand, at the entrance of the Charing Cross Railway Station, offer the best rates of exchange for American, French, and other currencies, besides purchasing foreign securities, etc. 216 Express and Steam-ship Agents.-Messrs. Sewell & Crowther forward works of art, trunks, or packages to any destination in the States, besides securing passages by any of the great steam-ship companies. Their place of business is at 18 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross. Fans and Perfumery.-Edward B. Nash, 27 Old Bond Street, citizen and fan-maker, has acquired a well-deserved reputation for the beautiful and artistic articles he keeps on sale. The specialty of the house is art-paintings on fans. Hats.-Lincoln Bennett & Co., the wellknown hatters, 1 Sackville Street and 40 Piccadilly, keep gentlemen's hats of every description in large variety, and ladies' velvet-napped riding and felt hats. Publishers and Booksellers. — Messrs. Hatchard, 187 Piccadilly, keep about the largest stock in London of new and standard books in cloth and leather bindings (including Harper's Guides). A large discount is made for cash. Reading- room and Exchange Office, at 449 Strand, opposite Charing Cross Station. Restaurant.-The most fashionable, respectable, and best-conducted restaurant in London is the celebrated French Cafl Verrey, No. 229 Regent Street, which has for fifty years maintained the first position. It is under the personal management of the proprietor, Mr. Krehl. Its cuisine and wine-cellar are as celebrated as those of the Cafe Anglais at Paris. Its cooking and service are in the French style. Dinners and suppers are furnished for travelers in their lodgings. The C6'fe Krehl, by the same proprietor, is a first-class restaurant in the City, Nos. 37 and 38 Coleman Street, where travelers visiting the Tower, Bank, Cathedral, etc., can obtain speedy luncheons or recherche dinners. Shirt Tailors, Hosiers, and Glovers.Messrs. Sampson & Co., 130 Oxford Street (a few steps from the Langham) have acquired celebrity for the satisfaction given to their clients for many years. Their hosiery deserves, perhaps, special commendation, embracing the best goods of all the manufactories in vogue. Every thing is of the very best quality, with fixed prices marked in plain figures. Silk- mercers, Linen - drapers, etc.-One of the first and most responsible houses in LONDON. [ENGLAND.] LONDON. London, in the above line of business, is that of J. Allison & Co., Regent House, 238-242 Regent Street. Costumes in the latest fashions, silks, cloaks, etc., are kept in large variety, besides a special department for mourning in all its branches. Stationers, Booksellers, and Melanographic Portraits.-Messrs. Weir & Knight, 283 Regent Street (close to the Langham) keep on hand a large stock of the above, including guide-books (Harper's, Bradshaw's, etc.). By melanography a carte de visite is enlarged, without a sitting, to a life-size portrait. Tailors.-Among the fashionable tailors of London are Messrs. Smalpage & Son, 41 and 43 Maddox Street, Bond Street, W., who have also established their name very favorably in the United States. They are agents for the White Star Line, and attend to storing or forwarding passengers' luggage, which will be found a great convenience to Americans in the West End. Strangers in London may also obtain very useful information by applying to them, and save both time and trouble. Messrs. H. J. Scott & Son, tailors, 55 New Bond Street, are also first-class West End tailors, with a very large and good connection in America. The establishment of Clifford H. Pugh, tailor, is at 319 Regent Street, three doors from the Langham. All material is of the very best, the cut according to latest fashions, and the promptitude unfailing. Traveling-bags and Dressing-cases.-The best of the above, with articles de luxe, stationery, etc., is to be procured at Asprey & Sons, 166 Bond Street, and 22 Albemarle Street. Trunks and Portmanteaux.-London has long been noted for leather goods, its solid leather trunks and other leather goods being unequaled, and much cheaper than in America. One of the oldest and most responsible houses in this line is that of Harrow & Son, Old Bond Street, who make Ithese articles (as well as a fine style of basket trunk) a specialty. Their house is of world-wide celebrity. Umbrellas, Canes, and Parasols. —The largest and richest selection in London of the above articles is probably c.t Sangster's, 140 Regent Street; it is the ladies' store par excellence. Watches and Jewelry.-A branch of the celebrated Geneva establishment of Henry Capt has recently been opened at 151 Regent Street, where travelers unable to proceed to Geneva or Paris may obtain his noted Swiss watches, and all other articles of his fashionable jewelry, at Geneva prices. Water-proofs and Rubber Goods, for traveling or fishing and shooting, are found in great variety and of the very best quality at G. Cording's, 125 Regent Street. Before leaving London, be certain you visit the immense brewery of Barclay & Perkins; it is one of the "institutions" justly celebrated. 217 [ENGLAND.] WINDSOR, London to Rotterdam, via Harwich (p. 32). London to Paris, via Newhaven and Dieppe (p. 32). London to Paris, via Folkestone and Boulogne (p. 32). Wi:,dsor Castle.-Starting from the Paddington station, which is only thirty-five or forty minutes' ride from Windsor, you arrive at the favorite seat of the sovereigns of Great Britain for the past eight centuries-and even before Windsor Castle was founded by William the Conqueror the Saxon kings resided on this spot. The castle lies near the town of Windsor, which contains some 10,000 inhabitants. There are several good hotels-best, Castle and Clarence. The noted Star and Garter was burned in 1869. If the royal family be absent you can visit her majesty's private ap:irtments, for which purpose you must obtain an order from the lord chamberlain; the rest of the castle may be visited by an order which can be procured from your bankers. The principal object that will attract the attention of the visitor is St. George's Chapel and royal vault. The first is a very splendid specimen of Gothic architecture. Here the marriage ceremony of the Prince of Wales and the Princess Alexandra was performed with great magnificence. The altar was arraved with its gold communion plate in massive rows, and the ceremony performed by a number of prelates, who made the services most impressive. The musical portion of the ceremony was sweetly rendered by Madame Jenny Lind Goldschmidt, who, with others, offered up the hymn of praise on this great day. The following is the hymn, which was composed by the Prince's father: "This day, with joyful heart and voice, To heaven be raised a nation's prayer; Almighty Father, deign to grant Thy blessing to the wedde pair. "So shall no clouds of sorrow dim The sunshine of their early days; But happiness in endless round Shall still encompass all their ways." A picture of the grand ceremony was painted by Mr. Frith, for the copyright of which a higher price has been offered than has ever been offered for any other picture. Tennyson, the poet-laureate of Great Britain, produced the following nuptial ode on the occasion: 217* RICHMOND. [ENGLAND.] I RICHMOND. 'Sea-king's daughter from over the sea, Alexandra! Saxon, and Norman, and Dane are we, But all of us Danes in our welcome of thee, Alexandra! Welcome her, thunders of fort and of fleet! Welcome her, thundering cheer of the street! Welcome her, all things youthful and sweet, Scatter the blossom under her feet. Break, happy land, into earlier flowers! [ers Make music, oh bird, in the new-budded bowWelcome her, welcome her, all that is ours' Warble, oh bugle, and trumpet blare! Fl:gs, flutter out upon turrets and towers! Flames, on the windy headl;nd flare! Utter your jubilee, steeple and spire! Clash, ye bells, in the merry March air! Flash, ye cities, in rivers of fire! Welcome her, welcome the land's desire, Alexandra! Sea king's daughter, as happy as fair, Blissful bride of a blissful heir. Bride of the heir (of the kings of the sea, Oh joy to the people, and joy to the throne, Come to us, love us, and make us your own; For saxon, or Dane, or Noorman we, Teuton, or Ctlt, or whatever we be, We are each all Pane in our welcome of thee, Alexandra!" In the vault lie the remains of many of England's sovereigns, including Henry VIII. and his queen, Lady Jane Seymour, George III. and his queen, William IV. and his queen, Charles I., and the Princess Charlotte: the monument of the last is very fine. The vault lies at the eastern end of the chapel. It is in this chapel Mwhere the installation of the Kni hts of the Garter takes place. The interior of the castle is most rich in decorations and works of art, embracing pictures, statuary, and bronzes. The principal gallery in which these works are shown is over 500 feet in lenth. In the centre of the castle is situated the round tower in which James I. of Scotland was confined. There is a park surrounding the castle, through which you must drive or walk, and visit Virginia Water, Herne's Oak, etc. At the end of the " Long Walk" -three miles - notice the magnificent equestrian statue of George III. by Westmacott. A short distance from Windsor is Frogmore, the residence of the late Duchess of Kent, the queen's mother, now occupied by the Prince and Princess Christian. Richmond.-A day may be well spent in an excursion to Richmond Park. Take train from Metropolitan station via Paddington and Hammersmith. The view is probably unsurpassed in Great Britain. From the summit of the hill may be seen Twickenham, the spot where stood the house of Pope, the poet: his body is interred in the church. Close by is Strawberry 1fill, once the residence of Horace Walpole, and now belonging to Lady Waldegrave. Of course you will dine at the world-renowned Star and Garter of Richmond. The surrounding scenery is most delightful; dinners are exquisite. A short walk or ride of two miles, crossing the Thames Bridge, will bring you to Harmpton Court, open free every day excepting Fridays. This palace was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, who presented it to his sovereign, Henry VIII. It was the birthplace of Edward VI. The masks and tournaments of Philip and Mary, and Elizabeth, occurred here; also the celebration of the marriage of Cromwell's daughter and Lord Falconbury. The palace is a splendid structure of red brick, with stone ornaments. There are portraits of many of the great beauties of Charles II.'s court, besides other paintings by many of the old masters, among them a fine picture of Charles I. on horseback by Vandyck. The gardens are the chief resort of the citizens. Here may be seen a vinery where there is a grape-vine ninety years old, which sometimes yields 3000 bunches of grapes in one year. An excursion should be made to Greenwich, so celebrated for its magnificent hospital, its Royal Observatory, not to speak of its white-bait dinners at the notorious Trafalgar Hotel. Steamers leave London every five minutes. Greenwich is also celebrated for being the birthplace of Henry VIII., and of his daughters Elizabeth and Mary. The present magnificent hospital was commenced by Charles II., and added to by different sovereigns. It consists of four quadrangles-namely, King Charles's, King William's, Queen Mary's, and Queen Anne's, capable of accommodating 2400 patients. In addition to other incomes, the hospital is supported by a tax of sixpence per month on every mariner either in the royal navy or in the merchants' service. There is a fine picture-gallery and chapel open to the public. A visit should be made to the Painted Hall, which contains many beautiful historical paintings, with statues of Nelson and Duncan. The Royal Observatory occupies the most conspicuous spot in Greenwich Park; it stands 217 - , - DULWCH. IIENGLAND.] NEW CROSS STATION. 300 feet above the level of the river: a magnificent view may be obtained from its summit. Its foundation-stone was laid in 1675. Dulwich, five miles from Waterloo Bridge, contains a gallery of paintings called the Dulwich Collection. These pictures were collected for Stanislas Augustus, King of Poland, who dying before their delivery, they were thrown on the hands of the collector, M. Desenfans,whose heir bequeathed them to Dulwich College. -There are several Murillos, Titians, Tintorettos, and Teniers among the collection..218 ROUTE No. 73. London to Brighton, Portsmouth, and the Isle of Wight, from London Bridge or Victoria Station, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. Time to Portsmouth, 4 h. 50 m.; to Ryde, 6 h. 15m. The railway is carried on arches for a distance of three miles to New Cross Station, where stands the Royal Naval School, CROYDON. [ENGLAND.] BRIGHTON. opened in 1845 under the patronage of Queen Adelaide. At Sydenham Station, 61 miles from London, a line branches off to the Crystal Palace. half a mile. At Norwood Junction, the West-end branch of the Brighton and the South Coast Railway unites with the main line. Norwood, from its vicinity to the Crystal Palace, and the beauty of its situation, is a very pleasant place of summer resort; there are several good hotels, where excellent accommodation is to be had. Croydon, a town of 21,475 inhabitants, is a place of great antiquity, called in Domesday Croindene. All vestiges of former times are, however, fast disappearing, owing to the daily increasing importance of the place as a railway terminus-there being now no less than four distinct stations at Croydon. The remains of the Archiepiscopal Palace are situated in the lower portion of the town adjoining the church. Two visits were made here by Queen Elizabeth in its prosperous days-in 1567 and 1573. In taking her departure on one of these occasions, the queen showed her hatred of marriage in the following wellknown speech to the archbishop's wife: "Madam I may not call you; mistress I am ashamed to call you; and so I know not what to call you; but, however, I thank you. " At Keymer Junction travelers to Newhaven and Dieppe branch off to the left, and are conducted by the railway down to the water's edge, whence they can step directly on board the steam-packet for Dieppe. Ten miles from Kevmer Junction on the main line we reach Brighton, the most interesting and extensive watering-place in Great Britain. The fashionable promenaders of Regent Street, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, and Regent's Park are continually brought together in this highly favored spot. It is the resort of the youth and beauty of England, where, indeed, it seems that none but pretty women appear, and their number is wonderful. Brighton is really a suburb of London, being only one hour distant, the nearest point of the South Coast-the Paris of England-where, if the sun shines, sunshine is to be found. Monthly tickets are issued by the railway company for business men going up to the city daily and returning in the evening. The principal hotels in Brighton are the Bristol, Grand, and Bedford, situated on the principal portion ofthe promenade, near the New Pier, which was erected in 1867, and by its beauty throws completely in the shade the celebrated Chain Pier,which has been considered for years one of the greatest lions of England. Brighton contains a population of nearly 80,000, but during the season it amounts to over 150,000. It is one of the most magnificently built cities in the United Kingdom, offering every inducement to a lengthened stay; every style of amusement-race - course, theatre, assembly and concert rooms; bathing establishments of every description; while the more sober-minded people will find churches and chapels of every denomination. The principal'house of worship is the modern Church of St. Peter, which is exceedingly handsome. It was erected by Sir Charles Barry, architect of the new houses of Parliament. But the old parish church of St. Nicholas is perhaps the most interesting building. It contains a fine monument erected to the memory of Captain Tattersall, who assisted Charles II. to escape after the battle of Worcester. The other principal buildings are the Royal Pavilion, built by George IV. when Prince of Wales: it was built in imitation of the Kremlin at Moscow, and, with the adjoining royal stables, presents a rather remarkable appearance. The town-hall, marine wall, Chain and New Piers, are all fine structures. The New Pier was opened in 1867, and is 1115 feet long, supported on screw piles: it is built of iron, and beautifully ornamented. But the great feature of Brighton is its beautiful parade and esplanade facing the sea, and lined with magnificent buildings for over three miles, and filled to overflowing with splendid turn-outs every lovely afternoon. The Brighton Aquarium, the largest and most magnificent establishment of the kind in the world, may almost be considered one of the " sights" of London, for the access to it by means of the railway is so easy and convenient, and the journey is so quickly accomplished, that the visitor is conveyed to Brighton in a shorter time than would be occupied by a drive from one end of London to the other. The site of the Aquarium is close to the Chain Pier, immediately below the cliff; the building being 219 BRIGHTON. [ENGLAND.] BRIGHTON. protected from the waves by a strong seawall formed of concrete and Portland stone -the latter is a portion of the materials of which old Blackfriars Bridge was constructed. Entering the gates at the western end, the visitor finds himself at the top of a flight of granite steps, twenty feet in width, leading to the entrance court, sixty feet by forty feet. The front elevation of the building is eighteen feet in height, and consists of five arches,witii terra-cotta columns and enrichments. On the frieze running around the sides are the appropriate words: "And God said, Let the waters bring forth abundantly the moving creature that hath life." On the northern side of the entrance-court is the restaurant; and on the southern (in the wall abutting on the new road) a series of niches ornamented with vases. From this outer court the entrance-hall, eighty feet by forty-five, is approached through three doors. This is furnished with reading-tables, and supplied regularly with the serials, journals, and telegrams of the day; while between the pillars supporting the roof are handsome pedestals, surmounted by large glass vases containing the smaller interesting marine andfresh-water animals, which would be lost to view in the larger tanks. In one of the recesses facing the entrance are microscopes, in which specimens illustrative of subjects in natural history connected with the Aquarium are constantly exhibited. To the north of the hall lie the general manager's offices, the retiring-rooms, kitchen, etc.; and eastward, in a direct line with the restaurant, is the entrance to the western or No. 1 corridor of the Aquarium proper. This corridor (the longest of three) extends 220 feet, and is broken by a centre vestibule, fifty-five feet by forty-five. The roof, which is groined and constructed of variegated bricks, rests upon columns of Bath stone, polished serpentine marble, and Aberdeen granite; the carved capitals of the columns having appropriate marine subjects. On each side are placed the first two series of tanks, twenty-one in number; these increase in size from eleven to ten feet upward, the largest measuring over 100 feet in length, forty feet in width, and holding 110,000 gallons of sea-water. This colossal tank (No. 6) is the largest in the building, and is devoted to the exhibition of por220 poises, congers, turtles, and other animals of large dimensions. The next largest tank (No. 36), which is fifty feet by thirty, containing about 60,000 gallons of sea-water, is immediately opposite. The eastern end of the western corridor opens upon the Conservatory, which serves as an approach to the rockwork, fernery, and picturesque cascade, and also to the eastern corridor, which, bounding the southern side, is continued parallel with the fernery from its southern angle. The artistic rockwork skirting the north side of the Conservatory,which is traversed by a stream of water broken up at intervals so as to form numerous natural bays and ponds, is now utilized for the reception of seals and the larger reptilia. In the side space between the Conservatory and the second or eastern corridor are octagonal table tanks, of elegant design, for the exhibition of some of the smaller and more rare marine animals; and, at the eastern extremity, apparatus which serves to illustrate the hatching and development of trout and salmon. The entire length of this second corridor is about 160 feet, one side of the eastern portion, which is ninety feet by twentythree, being devoted to the exhibition of fresh-water animals. At the end of the corridor are situated the curator's offices and the naturalists' rooms, fitted with open tanks and all necessary appliances, and the engines, pumps, etc., for supplying the water and keeping it constantly aerated. The salt water is pumped direct from the sea into reservoirs constructed under the floors of the corridors, and is thence conveyed into the tanks by the same enginepower. These reservoirs are capable of holding about 500,000 gallons of water, a quantity which can be pumped from the sea in about ten hours. The water in the tanks is constantly aerated and kept in circulation by a stream of compressed air, supplied to the lower part of the tanks, and worked by steam-power. This also keeps down the temperature and oxidizes any organic impurity which the water may contain. The circulation thus afforded is found to be preferable to that obtained by the more costly system of pumping adopted in other aquaria, as it dispenses with the necessity of circulating reservoirs, and allows each tank to be treated independently of WORTHING. [ENGLAND.] PORTSMOUTH. its neighbors-an advantage which can not be overrated when such a large body of water has to be dealt with. The building,which measures 715 feet in length, with an average width of 100 feet, was erected from designs by Mr. Eugenius Birch, and was opened to the public on the 10th of August, 1872. Many very impor. tant discoveries in natural history have been made by attentive notice of the habits of the fishes and other animals in the tanks of this Aquarium, which has thus been utilized as a grand marine observatory, while it has also been made most attractive and agreeable as a fashionable promenade and lounge. An excellent band contributes the charm of good music throughout the day; and on every Saturday afternoon there is a special concert, to assist at which the most celebrated vocalists and instrumentalists are engaged. There are several excursions in the vicinity which it is desirable to make; among others is that to the Devil's Dike: the view from this spot is really charming. Continuing our route from Brighton, we pass Shoreham Junction, where a line branches off to Horsham; here are two interesting old churches. Worthing is reached ten miles from Brighton. It is a small watering-place, known in that capacity some time before the latter place, but evidently unable to compete with its attractions, although the climate is milder and the bathing good. At Ford Junction the Littlehampton branch runs off to the south, and the Mid-Sussex branch joins the main line. Barnham Junction, with the line to Bognor, is passed before reaching Chichester, 28j miles from Brighton. Population 8059. This is an ancient town of Roman origin, consisting of four straight streets corresponding to the points of the compass, with a handsome market cross at their place of intersection: this was the work of Bishop Story, and was finished in 1500. The ancient city, called Regnum, now lies buried beneath the soil; but coins, urns, mosaic pavements, occur in every direction, and fresh discoveries are continually being made. A remarkable inscription, now preserved at Goodwood, recording the dedication of a temple to Neptune and Minerva by the College of Smiths, they being the great patrons of handicraftsmen, was found here in the North Street in VoT,. I. —K 2 1720. The cathedral is the principal object of interest: it consists in part of a building erected in the 12th century by Bishop Ralph, to which numerous additions have been made. The spire, which originally stood on a tower supported by four piers, was overthrown during a violent gale of wind in 1861, but a subscription was immediately raised for its reconstruction. Portsmouth, 73 miles from London, contains 95,000 inhabitants. Principal hotels, Pier and Queen's. This city contains, in addition to Gosport, on the western entrance to the harbor, and Southsea, on the eastern (where the principal hotels are), the great naval arsenal of England. The city is strongly fortified, and constitutes one of the chief defenses of the country. Portsmouth originated in a retreat of the sea from Portchester, formerly a naval station established by the Romans: it was a naval station in the reign of King John, was fortified by Edward IV., Richard III., Henry VII., and was the only royal naval station in the time of Henry VIII. During the war of Cromwell the town was garrisoned by the Parliament. The fortifications require a garrison of 14,000 men; they are surrounded by a deep and wide moat, which can be filled hurriedly with water from the sea. The harbor is very large, four miles long and two wide, deep and secure, capable, at ebb-tide, of floating the largest ship in the British navy. The defenses are considered almost imI regnable, the coast on either side being crowned with batteries armed with artillery of the latest invention and heaviest calibre. A sand-bank three miles in length, called the " Spit," projects southeast from the western portion of the harbor, which, with the Isle of Wight to the south, forms the safe roadstead of Spithead. A few miles from the main line, between London and Portsmouth, is Midhurst, the burialplace of Richard Cobden: the scenery in the neighborhood is delightful, and travelers might well take it in their way. The town itself has nothing to interest the visitor outside the dock-yard with the exception of the grand dep6t called the "Gun Wharf," covering a space of fourteen acres, where ordnance of every calibre may be seen in immense quantities. The armory contains 40,000 stand of arms. The Portsmouth dock-yard, which is en. 221 ISLE OF WIGHT. [ENGLAND.] ISLE OF WIGSH. tered from Portsea, contains storehouses rive at Carisbrooke Castle at one o'clock. and workshops for the supply of every ar- Send your horses and carriage to the Bugle ticle required for the use of the navy. Inn, Newport, with instructions to the driNearly all the manufacturing operations ver to order your dinner for 2.30; visit the are conducted by the use of steam. The castle, and walk to Newport, only one mile. anchor-forging establishment is really a If starting from Cowes, do the same diswonderful sight. The machine for the tances, that is, sleeping at Ventnor and manufacture of wooden pulleys was in- Freshwater. vented by an American. The dock covers If making the tours from Newport, the an area of thirty-three thousand square first is called the Southern Tour, viz. Arreyards, and employs nearly six thousand ton, Shanklin, Undercliff, Ventnor, Niton, men. A naval college and school for the Blackgang Chine, Rookley, and Newport. study of naval architecture are connected Western Tour. - Carisbrooke Castle, with the establishment; also connected Northcourt, Freshwatergate, Alum Bay, with the deck-yard is an immense steam Yarmouth, Carisbrooke village, and Newbasin three thousand feet long, said to be port. the largest in the world. Lying in the Northeastern Tour. - Fernhill, Quarr, harbor may be seen the hulk of Nelson's Ryde, the Priory, Bembridge, Sandown to flag-ship, the old "Victory." Newport, by Long Lane. Close to the water's edge in Southsea Arrangements can be made with the are the King's Rooms, used for concerts, proprietors of the Bugle Inn at Newport promenades, and other meetings; adjoin- for carriages to make these excursions, ing are warm, shower, and vapor baths. The " Bugle" is the best hotel in Newport. The Ryde Pier is connected with the rail The Isle of Wight is one of the most road station by a tramway. In case you beautiful and healthy portions of the kingdo not wish to stop at Portsmouth, you can dom; the air, although remarkably mild, continue to the pier,where a small steamer is sharp, bracing, and salubrious. Dr. leaves for Ryde, Isle of Wight, every hour. James Clark says that, "from the variety From Portsmouth to Ryde, fare, Is. 3d.; which it presents in point of elevation, soil, time, 30 minutes. and aspect, and from the configuration of Tour of the Isle of Wight. its hills and shores, it possesses several peIf making the tour from Ryde or Cowes, culiarities of climate and situation which we advise the following course: Take a render it a very favorable and commodious carriage and go round the island at your residence throughout the year for a large leisure, say three days: a one-horse car- class of invalids." It is said that the riage will cost in the vicinity of twenty death-rate in the vicinity of Ventnor is shillings per day; a two-horse carriage only seventeen in every thousand, while about thirty-five shillings, every thing in- in the rest of England it averages twentycluded. two. It is separated from Hampshire by If starting from Ryde, stop at the Pier a channel called the Solent Sea, which vaHotel, a first-class house, at the entrance to ries in width from four to six miles. In Ryde from the pier; table excellent. times of war this channel was mostly the The first day.-Bembridge, Taverland, anchorage of the British fleet. The island Sandown, Shanklin, and Ventnor-seven- is about 60 miles in circumference, measteen miles. Sleep by all means at Vent- uring 221 miles from east to west, and a nor, although the driver may want you to little over 13 miles from north to south, go farther that day. The Marine Hotel is and contains about 85,000 acres. It is disone of the most comfortable on the island. tinguished for the beauty and variety of Second da. —St. Lawrence, Niton, Sand- its natural features, and is universally conTock, Blackgang, Shorwell, Northwood, sidered the garden of England. The surFreshwater-twenty-one mile. Sleep the face of the country is undulating, and is second night at Lambert's Hotel; very good said to have been formerly covered with house. woods, but the ship-building of Portsmouth Third day.-Yarmouth, Calbourne, Ca- soon exhausted them. The two sides of risbrooke Castle, Newport,Cowes, Osborne, the island are of widely different characQuarrAbbey,Ryde-thirty-five miles. Ar- ter. The northern part is covered with 222 RYDE. [ENGLAND.] SANDOWN. verdant and beautiful foliage, while the and lighted with gas; an enchanting view southern part, called the Back of the Island, can be had in every direction. The town contains the wildest scenery, and abounds may be considered of modern date, but the in rocks, deep ravines, and imposing preci- beauty of its site and its salubrious air has pices. The population of the island is a recently caused it to become a most fashlittle over 55,000. ionable watering-place. On the banks of The Romans invaded the Isle of Wight the water, and near the Pier hotel, is the during the reign of the Emperor Claudius, Royal Victoria Yacht Club-house, a handA.D. 43, and it remained in their posses- some and convenient building; the first sion until 530, when it was conquered by stone was laid by his Royal Highness the Cedric the Saxon. It was frequently at- Prince Consort March 2,1846. The club tacked and devastated by the Danes, was regatta takes place in the month of Autwice plundered by Earl Godwin in the gust each year. One hundred yards from time of Edward the Confessor, and by Earl the club-house, in 1869, our unfortunate Tosti in the time of Harold. It was also countryman, Mr. Grinnell, was instantly invaded several times by the French, es- killed by accidentally falling from a winpecially in 1377, when the island was at- dow. Mr. Grinnell's loss was much retacked in large force, but its strong-hold, gretted, as he commanded the respect and Carisbpooke Castle, was so bravely defend- esteem of all who knew him. ed by Sir Hugh Tyrrel that they were The Holy Trinity Church is a very handeventually obliged to withdraw. some building, and well worth a visit. William the Conqueror conferred the There is a theatre open during the sumlordship of the Isle of Wight on William mer months, and often during the winter Fitz Osborne, earl of Hereford, and for two months amateur performances are given centuries the island was governed by inde- by the English officers stationed at Ryde. pendent lords. Since the time of Edward Steamers run between Portsmouth, I. in 1293, the island has been governed by Southsea, Cowes, Southampton, and Ryde wardens appointed by the crown; but the nearly every hour during the day. The office has become a sinecure, and the pres- excursions in the immediate neighborhood ent governor receives no salary, and but are numerous-the ruins of Quarr Abbey, little patronage. In 1444, Henry Beau- Binstead Quarries and Church, etc. champ, duke of Warwick, was crowned After leaving Ryde for Ventnor, notice King of Wight by the unfortunate Henry on your left the celebrated Bembridge Clifs, VI. The Isle of Wight has of late years rising almost perpendicularly from the sea; been one of the residences of the queen. notice on the hill to the left the new fort, In 1844, the mansion of Osborne, with its commenced in 1862, which, with the fort park and the adjoining estate of Barton, on the beach, and the three adjacent batwas purchased by her majesty and the late teries, form the coast defenses of this porprince consort. Osborne IHouse is situated tion of the island. On the left of the fort in the immediate vicinity of East Cowes. stands a lofty obelisk, seen from nearly all The mansion has been greatly enlarged parts of the island: it was erected by the since it was purchased by the queen; a members of the Royal Yacht squadron to new wing has been added, and a tower the memory of their commodore, the Earl from whose summit a magnificent view of Yarborough. may be had of the surrounding country. Sundown, a fashionable and healthy waThe interior is filled with gems by the best tering-place, contains a population of nearartists of Europe. ly 2000 inhabitants; hotels Sandown and Ryde.-Population, 10,000; principal ho- Star and Garter; fine beach and bay, and tel the Pier, beautifully situated at the beautiful inland scenery. Numerous bathhead of the new pier, and admirably man- ing-machines are always in readiness on aged-one of the best on the island. Ar- the beach, also a bathing-house with hot rangements can be made with the proprie- and cold sea-water. tor, who keeps a large stable, to make your From Sandown to Shanklin, a distance excursions through the island. Ryde con- of four miles, we pass over some of the tains a great number of very beautiful vil- most romantic scenery in the island. las, the streets are clean and well-paved, The village of Shanklin is one of the 223 SHANKLIN. [ENGLAND.] VENTNOR. most lovely and romantic on the island; its scenery. The cause of these landslips, the chief object of attraction is the Chine, a last of which took place in 1818, is, that the word derived from the Saxon cine or chink. understratum is of a loose and absorbent This Chine owes its origin to a small stream nature, which, when saturated by heavy of water, which, falling over the ledge of rains, becomes the consistency of mud, the sand-cliff for numerous ages, has worn while the superincumbent strata consists a channel nearly 200 feet deep by 100 wide, of rock and chalk. As the southern storms the sides of which are beautifully clothed continue to waste away the substrata, in with brushwood and hanging trees, and the course of time the whole is underhere, shut out from all the world, one can mined, and the superior cliff slides forward well linger for hours, soothed by the mur- with a fearful crash, part retaining its permur of the falling stream, and during the pendicular position, while the residue, covlovely nights of May and June the night- ered with trees, houses, and underwood, is ingale adds to the enchanting chorus. The completely overturned, or dashed about in Chine is inclosed by a gate at each end; a the most fearful manner. small gratuity is expected on leaving. Passing through the town Bonchurch, At the entrance to the Chine, nearly in noted for its picturesque and romantic front of Hillier's hotel, notice a small tower beauty, and as being the residence of the of stones about eight feet high, the top of well-known authoress, Miss E. Sewell, also which is covered with flowers, and near that of Edmund Peel, an author and poet the base a running spring of crystal wa- of celebrity, we arrive at Ventnor, considerter, above which notice an American eagle, ed the most favorable place in England for with "E Pluribus Unum" on his breast; consumptive invalids, being visited with below the stars and stripes we read the less rain than any other place in Great following verse: Britain, and enjoying a more even temper"Oh trawveler, stny thy weary feet; ature throughout the year. The rise of Drink of this fountain cool and sweet; Ventnor as a watering-place is due to its It flows for rich and poor the sme. position, beauty and salubrity. It is sitTh-n go thy way, remembering till Th gositio nw, lee>"S - P~~ " beauty, and sahbrity. It is sitThe wayside well beneath the hill, uated on a succession of terraces sloping The cup of water in His name." from the north to the sea, with altitudes It seems that the inhabitants of Shanklin varying from 300 feet above to the level of entreated Longfellow, during his visit in the sea, with the hill of St. Boniface, or the 1868, to write a verse commemorative of " down," as it is here called, 900 feet high the event, and they have honored it in the at its back, protecting it from the northmost conspicuous manner. easterly winds, while its southern aspect The beach is one of the finest on the gives it, during the winter, a comfortable coast, and offers every facility for bathing warmth, being cooled in the summer by or walking, while the drives in the vicin- the breezes of the sea. Its population is ity embrace every variety of the beauti- about 6000. A railway from Ryde was ful and romantic. A short distance from opened to Ventnor in 1866. Travelers Shanklin are the artificial ruins of Cook's wishing to come by rail to Ventnor can Castle. engage carriages to make the different exThe Undercliff or Landslip, which aver- cursions from the proprietors of the hotels. ages half a mile wide and nearly seven Ventnor enjoys both the luxury of gas miles long, commences here. This is a and water, and its walks and rides are not spot that has very few parallels on the sur- surpassed, if equaled, by any on the island, face of the globe, and is universally considered as the most interesting portion of the island. It is formed by numerous landslips that have taken place in different ages, producing at the time of their recurrence the most destructive results, but eventually converted into most beautiful Two miles north of Ventnor is the former pictures, irregular terraces, steep knolls, residence of the Earl of Yarborough, Ap. picturesque and sylvan dells, a continuous puldercombe, the finest seat on the island; succession of wild, romantic, and beautiful here was formerly an ancient priory, found 224 FRESHWATER. [ENGLAND.] NEWPORT. ed in the reign of Henry III. The pres- II. first landed here in 1671; he resided in ent magnificent building was formerly sur- what is now the George hotel, then the rounded by most beautiful grounds, in the government house. Yarmouth Castle is a midst of a fertile and extensive domain. small fort built in the reign of Henry VIII. After the earl's death in 1847, the furni- The church contains a monument of Sir R. ture, pictures, etc., were sold at auction. Holmes, captain of the island, who enterIn 1859 the mansion was leased by a hotel tained Charles II. on his landing. From company; the speculation proved a failure, Ya mouth to Newport the distance is nine and the building is now occupied as an ed- and three quarter miles, passing Calbourne ucational establishment. a short distance from the high road; its After passing various objects of attrac- pretty little church is well deserving a vistion, such as Steephill Castle, a modern it. After passing Carisbrooke, the former structure, built by J. Hamborough, Esq., capital of the island (it will be much better in 1833, St. Lawrence's Well, Nitron, etc., to continue on to Newport, and make the which your driver will point out, we ar- excursion from there to Carisbrooke Casrive at Blackgang Chine, the terminus of tle; the distance is only one mile, and the the Undercliff. This Chine is just the re- hotel accommodation is much better), we verse of that of Shanklin, wild, rugged, and arrive at Newport, the capital of the island. barren; its shelving sides are upward of The Bugle Inn, next door to which the 500 feet high, and the scene is grand, ster. Brighton and South Coast Railway have a ile, and uninviting. Near by, in a build- booking and general inquiry office, is well in r, is the skeleton of a whale captured managed. There is a railroad from here to here in 1841, the largest ever caught on Cowes (five miles), and coaches run to the English coast. Behind the Blackgang Ryde, Yarmouth, and the eastern side of Chine rises the highest land on the island, the island. The town is finely situated on 830 feet above the level of the sea; it is the river Medina, and contains over 8000 called St. Catharine's Hill, from the top of inhabitants. Newport contains a townwhich a most magnificent view can be ob- hall; a grammar-school-the scene of tained. Charles I.'s negotiation with the ParliaFrom the Undercliff to Freshwater, our mentary commissioners. St. Thomas's, the next stopping-place, the distance is fifteen principal church of the town, contains a miles, during which time we pass numer- beautiful monument by Marochetti, erected ous other chines, but inferior in size to by Queen Victoria to the memory of the Blackgang. We also pass the villages of Princess Elizabeth, daughter of Charles I., Chale, Kingston, Shorwell, Brixton, Mot- who died in Carisbrooke Castle, and whose tistone, and Brooke. remains were accidentally found in 1793. * Freshwater, or Freshwater Cliffs, is a The museum contains a rather interesting beautiful promontory nearly three miles in collection of Roman coins. extent; in the distance there is a same- A walk must be made from Newport to ness in its appearance, but when examined Carisbrooke Castle, a fine old ruin built or in detail it exhibits a diversity of feature rebuilt by William Fitz Osborne, a Norof the most sublime description, man knight, and first Lord of the Isles, the principal sight on the island. It is situated about one mile west of Newport, on the summit of a steep hill. Its mouldering Make excursions around the Needle battlements, covered with luxuriant ivy Rocks to Alum Bay, Scratchell's Bay, etc. and other vegetation, render it a most roNotice the singular isolated rocks in Fresh- mantic feature in the landscape. The keep water Bay, the caverns of Watcombe Bay, commands a fine view. There is a fine well, the Wedge Rock, etc. Near Freshwater 200 feet deep, capable of supplying water to Gate stands Faringford House, the former a large garrison. A candle is let down to residence of Tennyson. From Freshwater show visitors its depth. The water is raised to Yarmouth the distance is three and a by means of a donkey, which turns a large half miles. This old-fashioned town is sit- wheel. The window through which Charles uated on the eastern side of the River Yarp I. tried to escape is shown to the visitor. it contains about 700 inhabitants. Charles Some writers attribute the origin of this 225 WEST COWES. [ENGLAND.] TUNBRIDGE WELLS. castle to the Celts, others to the Romans. Its Norman walls, which are included in the present walls, occupied about one and a half acres, but the present or Elizabethan walls inclose twenty acres of land. A walk should be taken round them to judge of their extent and enjoy the beautiful landscape. The son of Charles I., Henry, was kept prisoner here two years after his father's death. An allowance of $5000 per annum was made him. His sister died a few days after that unfortunate event. The principal relic of antiquity yet found on the island is that of a Roman villa, discovered accidentally while making excavations in the town of Carisbrooke. Its extent is 150 feet long by 60 wide. On the walls of some of the rooms the painting is quite fresh. Five miles from Newport by railway is situated the town of West Cowes, a fashionable bathing-place, and the principal port of the island. It contains a population of nearly 6000. It owes its importance principally to being the rendezvous of the Royal Yacht Squadron, established here in 1812, and to the number of swift and handsome yachts built here. It is also the principal harbor and rendezvous of our American yachts, and during the season some of our yachtsmen are always to be found at the Fountain IIotel-admirably managed, and replete with cleanliness and comfort. The town takes its name from the two forts, East and West Cowes, built by Henry VIII. to command the Medina. That of West Cowes, called the Castle, mounts eleven nine-pounders on a semicircular battery. The building is now occupied as the club-house of the Royal Yacht Squadron. The "Terrace" is a very pretty row of lodging-houses which stand on the Parade,the principal promenade, where yachts and steamers pass within a few yards of your window. There is a ferry across the Medina to East Cowes, near which is Norris Castle, one of the most conspicuous objects on the island, and few persons would imagine it to be a modern building. It is built in imitation of a Norman castle, and covered with ivy to its topmost tower. Norris was formerly the residence of the Duchess of Kent and her daughter, the Princess Victoria, now queen. The next estate is that of 226 Osborne, the residence of the queen, which has been entirely rebuilt. It stands on a ridge overlooking the Solent and Spithead, but not in such a prominent position as Norris Castle. Nearer Ryde are the remains of the celebrated Quarr Abbey, built by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century. Very little can be distinguished now except a small portion of the chapel. ROUTE No. 74. London to hlastings, via Chisel/iurst and Tunbridge Wells, by rail from London Bridge. Time, 2 hrs. 55 min.; fare, 17s. Eleven miles from London we reach Chiselhurst, a place which has become so famous of late years, first, as the place of retreat of the Emperor Napoleon III., and afterward as the scene of his death and burial; also the burial-place of his universally lamented son, the Prince Imperial, who was killed in Zululand in 1879. Camden Place, the residence of the ex-empress, was named from the antiquary Camden, Ben Jonson's friend and instructor, who passed his summers in this retreat. It will interest all travelers to visit the chapel in which the emperor's remains are interred, filled as it is with evidences of the love and devotion of his numerous and faithful subjects. Tunbridge Wells is, after Bath, the most ancient of the inland watering.places. Hotels, the Calverley and Kentish Royal. The mineral quality of these springs was first noticed by Dudley, Lord North, during the reign of James I. From that time the springs were inclosed, and soon became famous. Tunbridge is supposed to bear some resemblance to Jerusalem, and the surrounding hills are called Mount Ephraim, Mount Zion, etc. Population 14,000. The season continues from May to November; a band plays three times a day on the Parade, and nothing is neglected to make the place pleasant for visitors. Of Tunbridge Castle, built in the eleventh century, the keep, part of the walls, and an inner gateway still remain. It is said HASTINGS. [ENGLAND.] RED HILL. to have stood a siege against William Rufus. Hastings, of which St. Leonard's is the "West End," contains a population of 23,000. Principal hotel, Marine, situated on the Parade. Next to the hotel is Pelham Cottage, where the Emperor Napoleon resided for some time before his descent on Boulogne, and, by a singular coincidence, it was to the Marine Hotel at Hastings that the Empress Eugenie came to meet the prince imperial after her flight from Paris. The empress was aided in her escape from that city by Dr. Thomas Evans, to whose house she went after leaving the Tuileries. He took her in his carriage to Deauville; from there they sailed in Sir John Burgoyne's yacht, and landed at Ryde, whence they proceeded to Hastings. Hastings is most noted in history for being the scene where the celebrated battle was fought which transferred the crown of England from Saxon to Norman heads, and for its famous castle, the favorite residence of William the Conqueror. The castle to-day is a mass of most magnificent ruins; some of its walls are eight feet thick. The Hastings of modern times is noted for the mildness and salubrity of its climate, the beauty of its environs, the openness of its coast, and the smoothness of its beach. Dr. James Clark, looking at it from a sanitary point of view, speaks of it in a very enthusiastic manner. Excursions should be made to Fairlight to examine the Dripping Well, to Battle, the scene of the Saxon's defeat, to visit its celebrated Abbey, the Fish Ponds, Ecclesbourne Vale, the Coastguard Station, where a most glorious view can be obtained. ROUTE 74 A. London to tIastings and Eastbourne, via Croydon, Red Hill, Lewes, and St. Leonards. This is an exceedingly interesting route, being the same as No. 74 (London to Brighton) as far as Keymer Junction, where it branches off from the main line to the left, passing through the town of Lewes. About half-way from the last-mentioned town to Hastings is Polegate Junction; by a small branch line, four miles long, the traveler is carried to the interesting watering-place of Eastbourne. The London, Brighton, and South-coast Railway trains leave London Bridge and Victoria Stations several times each day. About one mile from London Bridge may be seen the most wretched and miserable part of London, especially the suburb of Bermondsey or "Jacob's Island," where Dickens laid the horrible scene of Bill Sykes's death in his "Oliver Twist." Two miles farther the beautiful Crystal Palace may be seen to the right, and on the left the Park and Hospital of Greenwich. Beyond the New Cross Stations (three miles from London) may be seen the Royal Naval School, founded by Queen Adelaide. At Forrest Hill Station, five and a half miles from London Bridge, the smoke of the city is left behind, and the clear, free, bracing air of the country reached. One mile farther is the Sydenham Station. The poet Campbell was for a long time a resident of Sydenham, which some years ago was one of the most beautiful spots in England, but it is rapidly becoming a suburb of London. Penge Station, half a mile farther, is quite close to the Crystal Palace. It contains a Waterman's Asylum, founded in 1840 by Queen Adelaide. Also a fine Naval Asylum. Croydon, described in Route 74. At Caterham Junction, three miles from Croydon, there is a branch line to Caterham, four and a half miles distant. Red Hill (Reigate Station), twenty miles from London Bridge. Here the main line of the Southeastern Railway turns to the left. A branch line to the right leads through Dorking to Reading. Dorking is an old-fashioned, quiet town of 4000 inhabitants, and is the centre of numerous fine excursions in the neighborhood, the prin227 DEERDENE. [ENGLAND.] EASTBOURNE. cipal of which is to Deerdene, for many centuries a residence of the Howards. Dorking was at one time of considerable importance. It is noted for its peculiar breed of fowls, said to be of Ronr. n origin, and which bring remarkably high prices. Hotels. Red Lion and White Cross. The town of Reigate is situated about two miles from the junction. It contains about 10,000 inhabitants, and is noted for the ruins of its old castle. Passing the town of Horley, five miles from the junction, notice on the left the Earlswood Asylum for Idiots, founded in 1846. Three miles farther the Three Bridges Junction is passed. Here a line to the east conveys the traveler to East Grimstead and Tunbridge Wells, and on the left branches to Petworth, Arundel, etc. Hayward's Heath, thirty-eight miles from London, is now passed, where carriages may be hired at the hotel near the station. Three miles farther Keymer Junction is reached, where the traveler leaves the main line to Brighton, and turns to the left, passing through Lewes. Hotel, Star. This picturesque old town contains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the side of a steep hill in the centre of the South Downs, and is separated by the Ouse which flows through the town. After the Conquest, Lewes was granted by the Conqueror to the Earl of Warrene, son-in-law of William. It remained in the hands of that family until the 14th century. The principal objects of interest in addition to the natural beauties of the place are its ancient Castle and Priory of St. Pancras. The remains of the first are finely situated above the town. Of its four towers only two remain, one of which is occupied by an Archaeological Society, which has collected a museum of objects of particular interest to lovers of that branch of science. There is a grand view from the summit of the tower. The Castle was built by William de Warrene, the first Norman earl, and his wife Gundrada. A small entrance-fee is charged. At the foot of the hill lie the ruins of the Priory of St. Pancras, which was founded by the above-mentioned earl and his wife. These ruins are also in charge of the Sussex Archaeological Society. While making excavations for the railway which passes 227* over the site of the Church of the Priory, the coffins of Earl de Warrene and his wife were discovered. They now rest in the Church of Southover, close by the Priory. As the coffins are less than half the usual length, it is supposed that at some remote time their bones were exhumed and placed in the present cases. A chapel was erected in 1847 to contain their bones. The ancient tombstone of Gundrada now occupies the centre of the floor. At the top of a hill to the west stands the Church of St. Anne, which well deserves a visit. There are several interesting excursions in the vicinity of Lewes, the principal of which is that to Mount Harry, the scene of the great battle fought on May 11th, 1264, between Henry III. and the barons commanded by Simon De Montfort. A branch road leads to Newhaven and Seaford. There are lines also to Brighton and Uckfield. Passing the Berwick Station, Polegate Junction is reached. The main line passes through Pevensey (noted for its ivy-grown castle) and reaches Hastings (described in Route 74), distance fifteen miles from Polegate. A branch line leads from the junction to Eastbourne, distance four miles. This town has within a few years become quite celebrated as a fashionable wateringplace. The old town is picturesquely situated in a small hollow finely sheltered by elm-trees. The new town extends from the station to the sea, and is over one half mile in length. The principal hotels are the Gildridge, Southdown, Burlington, Albion, Sussex, and Pi r. The resident inhabitants are over 5000. The town is finely sheltered on all sides except the south and east. The bathing is considered very good. It has also the advantage of mineral springs, which are said to resemble those of Clifton, and there are good walks and drives. It lies about two miles east of Beachy Head, and is much recommended for its bracing air. A new and attractive promenade has recently been made round the Wish Tower, and the extension of the parade to Holywell is being rapidly completed. The Devonshire Park and pavilion is close to the sea, and much patronized by visitors. There is also a first-class bathing establishment adjoining. EASTBOURNE. [ENGLAND.] FOLKESTONE. To the left is the esplanade, and farther inward the large circular fort; and, in the distance, several Martello Towers. Eastbourne has one of the finest churches in the county-Norman and Early English. This beautiful watering-place has received valuable assistance from the Duke of Devonshire, who is a large owner of property and has a pretty residence there. The trees in the streets, the luxuriant vegetation, and the sloping Downs give a fine appearance to the town. There is a good pier, on which a band plays daily. Beachy Head, about two miles, should be visited; it is the most stupendous cliff along the coast, being 564 feet in perpendicular height, and when the storm rages along the channel it has a grand and sublime appearance. Pevensey and Hurstmonceux Castles, within easy distance, should also be visited. The neighborhood in and around Eastbourne abound with interesting historical associations. Tide 13 minutes earlier than Brighton. Cheap pleasure tickets are issued to and from Eastbourne. Branch offices for railway information, etc.: Gowland,the Library, Marine Parade; the Pier, Leach's Library, Grand Parade; and Newman's Anchor Hotel. Postal Telegraph Offices: Railway Station and Post-office. ROUTE No. 75. London to Folkestone, via Tunbridge and Ashfbrd, from London Bridge. Time, 3 hrs. 35 min.; fare, ~1. Leaving London from London Bridge, and passing through Croydon (see Route No. 73) and Tunbridge (see Route No. 74), we reach Paddock Wood Junction, where a line branches off to Maidstone, reaching that town in thirty minutes. Maidstone is 34, miles from London by the Southeastern Railway, and contains a population of 23,058. Hotels, The Mitre and Royal Star. The town is situated on the right bank of the Medway, surrounded by orchards, hop-grounds, etc.. and is the capital of the county of Kent. Among the principal buildings notice the county jail, the town-hall, the corn market, the church in which Archbishop Courtenay is buried, and the archbishop's palace, rebuilt in the 14th century. From Maidstone to Folkestone the distance is about 35 miles. Returning to the main line, we soon pass Ashford Junction, the principal repairing station of the Southeastern Railway: it is important as the junction of three different lines, but contains little to interest the traveler. Population 5522. Westenhanger, Shorncliffe, and Folkestone are passed before reaching Folkestone Harbor. Folkestone contains a population of 8500, and a good hotel, the Pavilion. It has greatly increased in importance since the opening of the Southeastern Railway, and is now a pleasant point of embarkation for France. The distance from Boulogne is but twenty-seven miles, and the ordinary time employed in crossing about one hour and forty minutes, and from Folkestone to London two and a quarter hours. Folkestone has of late years been much frequented as a watering-place; the air is considered efficacious for persons suffering from nervous debility, and here there is more retirement than at other watering-places along the coast. The town itself is most irregularly and badly built; the streets are steep and narrow, but outside the town there are most delightful walks. From Folkestone Hill, which rises to a height of 575 feet back of the town, a most glorious view may be obtained. Dr. William Har-,vey, who immortalized himself by the dis2271 ROCHESTER. [ENGI covery of the circulation of the blood, was a native of Folkestone. The time from London to Paris, via Folkestone and Boulogne, does not now exceed nine hours, owing to new arrangements put into practice October, 1875. ROUTE No. 76. London to Dover, via Chatham and Canterbury, from Victoria Station. Time, 2 hrs. 10 min.; fare, ~1. Passing through Dulwich (see Route No. 72) and Swanley Junction, whence a branch line runs to Seven Oaks and Maid*stone, we reach Rochester and Strood. The latter place stands on the left bank of the Medway, and contains little of interest, unless we except some fragments of a Preceptory of the Templars, to whom the manor of Strood was given by Henry II., which lie on the bank of the river, about half a mile above Rochester Bridge. This bridge is one of the sights of Rochester, and is a handsome iron structure, the foundations of which were laid in 1850 by Messrs. Fox & Henderson. It occupies the site of an old wooden structure of very great antiquity, the view from which is thus described by Dickens: "On the left of the spectator lay the ruined wall, broken in many places, and in some overhanging the narrow beach below in rude and heavy masses. Huge knots of sea-weed hung upon the jagged and pointed stones, trembling in every breath of wind; and the green ivy clung mournfully around the dark and ruined battlements. Behind it rose the ancient castle, its towers roofless, and its massive walls crumbling away, but telling as proudly of its old might and strength as when, seven hundred years ago, it rang with the clash of arms, or resounded with the noise of feasting and revelry. On either side the banks of the Medway, covered with corn-fields and pastures, with here and there a windmill or a distant church, stretched away as far as the eye could see, presenting a rich and varied landscape, rendered more beautiful by the 228,AND.] CHATHAM. changing shadows which passed swiftly across it, as the thin and half-formed clouds skimmed away in the light of the morning sun. The river, reflecting the clear blue of the sky, glistened and sparkled as it flowed noiselessly on; and the oars of the fishermen dipped into the water with a clear and liquid sound, as their heavy but picturesque boats glided slowly down the stream."-Pickwick Papers. Rochester is a place of great antiquity, which suffered much from the depredations of both Danes and Saxons. Hotels, Crown, where Queen Elizabeth sojourned in 1573, and the Bull, at which Mr. Pickwick put up. Many royal personages have visited Rochester; in addition to Queen Elizabeth, already mentioned, Henry VIII., who here first saw Anne of Cleves, and called her a "Flanders mare;" King James, in company with the King of Denmark; Charles II., after his restoration; and James II. The cathedral and castle are among the objects of interest to be visited at Rochester; the latter is situated on the banks of the Medway at the southwest corner of the city-walls, and consists of a Norman keep with some portions of the outer walls. The present castle dates from the twelfth century, and probably occupies the site of a much earlier fortress. This was the first building invested and occupied by Louis of France during his invasion of England in the reign of King John. From Rochester a visit may be made to Cobham Hall, the seat of the Earl of Darnley, whose house and picture-gallery are open to the public on Fridays. This gallery, being chiefly formed by purchases from the Orleans Gallery, as well as the Vetturi Gallery of Venice, is well worthy of inspection. One mile and three quarters from Rochester we reach Chatham, which principally consists of one long, dirty street running parallel with the Medway, outside the dockyard and barracks. There is little of interest in the town. The former was established here by Queen Elizabeth, and soon attained considerable extent; the great event in its history was the burning of the ships lying here at anchor by the Dutch fleet under De Ruyter, who on the 7th of June, 1667, anchored at the mouth of the Thames, and, blockading that river and the Medway, obtained possession of the fort of CANTERBURY. [ENGL Sheerness, and attacked the ships lying at anchor at Chatham, which were protected by a chain stretched across the river at Gillingham Fort. This was speedily broken, and the two vessels stationed to guard it set on fire. Others were afterward destroyed, but, considering the utter want of preparation on the part of the English, the damage effected was not as great as might have been expected. The barracks, capable of accommodating 3000 men, lie alongside of the river. They are inclosed, together with the dock-yard, by fortifications called the Chatham Lines, begun in 1758 and completed in 1807, which encircle a considerable extent of ground, including the village of Brompton. Within this inclosure the military operations and grand reviews take place. Faversham, the next place of importance on our route, was early a place of consequence, where Athelstane and his " witan " were entertained in 930. In 1147 an abbey was founded here by Stephen and Matilda, to whom Godfrey de Bouillon sent a piece of the true cross, which was preserved in the abbey; the founders were afterward buried here. The present parish church is believed to be that once belonging to the abbey, but has since been entirely remodeled; notice in the northern transept a pillar bearing some early English paintings of great interest. Canterbury, the capital of the county of Kent, contains 21,324 inhabitants, and is 62 miles distant from London. Hotels, Fountain and Rose. There the chief feature of interest is the Cathedral, which occupies the site of a British or Roman church attributed to King Lucius. This church, after being twice renewed, was burned down at the time of the Conquest (1067), and another begun in 1070, which was not completely finished until 1130, when it was dedicated by Archbishop William in the presence of Kings Henry of England and David of Scotland. Here Becket was murdered; in 1174 the choir, so beautiful that it bore the name of the "glorious choir of Conrad," was burned down. This, together with the nave, was reconstructed, the works lasting until 1410, and the present building consists mostly of these different works. The principal entrance is from the south porch, where in the Saxon period all disputes were judged; AND.] DovER. the nave, having fallen into a ruinous condition. was rebuilt in 1378: it is a light Perpendicular style, and greatly resembles that of the Winchester Cathedral; the choir is raised to a considerable height above the crypt, differing in this respect from all cathedrals, both English and foreign, and is reached from the nave by a long flight of steps; it is also of unusual length, and is the work of William of Sins. The screen surrounding it dates from 1305, and was constructed by Prior Henry de Estria. Part of the pavement of the choir is made of a delicate brown veined marble which belonged to the original "glorious choir of Conrad." The cathedral is filled with numerous and interesting monuments. Many royal personages have visited this cathedral to do homage at the shrine of Thomas h Becket. Louis of France visited the tomb in 1179; Richard Coeur de Lion came here to return thanks to God and St. Thomas after his liberation from the Austrian prison. John and all the succeeding English kings, as well as their royal visitors, followed his example. The visit of Henry VIII. and the Emperor Charles V. is thus mentioned by Stanley: "They rode together from Dover on the morning of Whitsunday, and entered the city through St. George's Gate. Under the same canopy were seen both the youthful sovereigns. Cardinal Wolsey was directly in front; on the right and left were the proud nobles of Spain and England; the streets were lined with clergy, all in full ecclesiastical costume. They alighted off their horses at the west door of the cathedral; Warham was there to receive them; together they said their devotionsdoubtless before the shrine." By the same Henry VIII. an order was afterward issued that Becket was to be called no more a saint, but Bishop Becket; his images were pulled down throughout the kingdom, and the contributions to the shrine were forfeited to the crown, while the bones of the ex-saint were ordered to be burned. Among the monuments in the cathedral, notice those of Edward the Black Prince and of Henry IV., with that of his second wife, Joan of Navarre. Dover is situated 17 miles from Canterbury and 78 from London. The railway runs along the harbor as far as the Admi229 DOVER. [ENGLAND.J CHELMSFORD. ralty Pier. Population 22,244. Hotels, Imperial, Lord Warden, and Ship. The town of Dover lies in a valley between Castle Hill and the Western Heights; it is a well-built place with terraces fronting the sea, and is always full of bustle and excitement. Dover was known in the time of the Romans under the name of Dubrae, and the walls and gates which existed at that period have all been traced. After the Conquest it rose to great importance, and became one of the keys of England; its castle was enlarged and strengthened, and was able in 1216 to resist a siege made against it by Louis of France, thus probably saving England from a French dynasty. The castle is situated about a mile from the town across the harbor, and covers about 35 acres of ground. An order for admission may be obtained on a recommendation from any hotel-keeper at the Brigadier's office in Castle Street; orders for viewing the Armory are issued by the Ordnance Storekeeper, and for the underground works by the Commanding Engineer. The interior, which is entered by Fulbert de Dover's Tower, in Castle Street, has been completely remodeled since 1780, but still bears every resemblance to a Norman castle, consisting of a keep, inner and outer courts, gates, and watch-towers. The size of the Roman castle which occupied this site is uncertain, the only part of the ancient work remaining being the lower portion of the Pharos, whose light once guided the imperial galleys into port. Of the numerous watch-towers once standing along the walls of the later fortress. Constable's, Peverell's, the Avranches, and the Colton are the only ones remaining in addition to the keep; the foundation walls of the last are said to have been laid by Henry Fitz-Empress, afterward Henry II.: they are 24 feet in thickness. The keep consists of three stories, the first being a large hall, at one time only entered from the story above, the second containing the chapel, and the third the state apartments. Below the Artillery Barracks, which stand near the edge of the castle cliff, is a brass cannon presented by the Emperor Charles V. to Henry VIII., which was cast at Utrecht in 1544. It bears the name of Queen Elizabeth's "pocket-pistol." The Church of St. Mary stands within the precincts of the castle. The excavations in 230 the chalk cliff underneath the castle were not made until toward the end of the last century, and are shown only by special order: these are casemates capable of lodging 2000 men, with magazines for powder and provisions. Long galleries and chambers perforate the cliff in every direction, and are supplied with air by means of brick funnels. The harbor of Dover is the only one of the ancient Cinque Ports which still exists, and that only at the cost of great trouble and expense; it formerly extended some distance up the Charlton valley, but has gradually retreated, owing to the effects of a shifting bar of shingle which sometimes closed it altogether, until the construction of the Harbor of Refuge, by means of which the passage of shingle from the westward was prevented. Both railways have lines running down to the pier within a few paces of the steamers, which leave here twice a day for Calais and Ostend. ROUTE No. 77. London to Norwich and Yarmouth, via Chelmsford, Colchester, and Ipswich (direct route to Rotterdam, Antwerp, and the Rhine, via Harwich), from Liverpool Street by the Great Eastern Railway, direct to Norwich; time, 3 h. 50 m.; fare, ~1 3s. 9d.; direct to Yarmouth (same route as far as Ipswich); time, 5 h. 5 m.; fare, ~1 5s. Leaving London by the Great Eastern Railway, we reach Chelmsford, the capital of the County of Essex, 29 miles distant from London. It contains several handsome buildings-St. Mary's Church, a town-hall, county jail, theatre, grammarschool, and a corn exchange. Hotels, Saracen's Head and White Hart. Population 5513. Continuing our route, the next place of importance which we pass is Colchester, a town containing 23,809 inhabitants. It is situated on the River Colne, 22 miles from Chelmsford, and 51 from London. This is a place of great antiquity, and is believed by many to be the Camelodunum of the Romans. There are many old and interesting houses, one dat COLCHESTER. [ENGLAND.] NORWICH. ing back as far as 1490. Here are also the ruins of a castle, of which the gateway and keep remain; also part of an abbey founded by Eudo Dapifer, steward of William the Conqueror. Colchester is now a military station, a camp having been formed here during the Russian War. About ten miles from the town, at St. Osyth, is an Augustine Priory, dating from the twelfth century, well worth a visit. Continuing from Colchester, at Manningtree (Junction), mentioned by Shakspeare in his Play of Henry IV., we leave the Great Eastern main line, and proceed by a branch to Harwich. The Continental Express trains leave Liverpool Street each night at a fixed hour for Harwich, and a similar train leaves Harwich each morning for London. These trains are in direct connection with the Continental steamers, and perform the journey from London to Harwich (70 miles), without stopping, in one hour and fifty minutes. The trains run alongside the steamers at the quay at Harwich. Great Eastern Hotel. Population 5070. Harwich is situated on a point of land close to the entrance of the Rivers Stour and Orwell into the German Ocean. It has an extensive harbor, capable of containing 100 sail of the line. Steamers leave here daily for Rotterdam, and three times a week for Antwerp, in connection with the Great Eastern Railway. This is the quickest and most direct route for reaching Germany, and, in case of bad weather, a couple of days may be passed most pleasantly in Harwich at the Great Eastern Hotel, a fine building belonging to the railway company. Continuing our route on the main line from Manningtree, in twenty minutes we reach Ipswich, a town of 37,950 inhabitants, which may also be reached by boat from Harwich. This excursion is made more for the beauty of the scenery along the banks of the River Orwell, on which Ipswich stands, than for any thing of interest which the old town contains. From the liver the town appears to form a crescent; the streets are narrow and irregular, but well paved. The principal buildings are the Town-hall, built in 1868, with a council chamber and library each 74 feet long; the theatre, where Garrick made his debut in 1741; the Corn Exchange, and thirteen churches. Cardinal Wolsey was born here in 1471, and the house in St. Nicholas Parish is still shown. Hotels, White Horse and Crown and Anchor. Norwich, a place of great antiquity, is about 112 miles from London. Population 74,891. Hotels, Royal, Norfolk, and Maid's Head. It is chiefly noted for its castle and cathedral. The castle was built during the reign of William the Conqueror. The Norman Keep, 70 feet high, and Bigod's Tower, still remain. The former is now used as a jail. The cathedral was begun in 1096 by Bishop Herbert de Lozinga, but was not finished until 1510. The interior is 411 feet in length, and contains many interesting monuments, among others that of Robert Bigod, Anne Boleyn's grandfather. Near to the cathedral stands the bishop's palace, which was nearly ruined by the Puritans. Among the other principal buildings are the Market, Guildhall, Mancroft Church and Grammarschool, besides several fine hospitals, etc. The introduction of the woolen trade first established the eminence of Norwich, and there are now numerous factories for the production of silk, mohair, and worsted. Yarmouth. Population 34,810. Hotels, Royal Victoria and Angel. Yarmouth is a sea-port, situated on the east bank of the Yare, about twenty miles by rail from Norwich, the inhabitants of which are chiefly engaged in mackerel, herring, and deepsea fisheries. It is a place of great antiquity. In the thirteenth century it was inclosed by a wall, with ten gates and sixteen towers, of which the remains may still be seen. The present town, however, extends far beyond this wall. The quay of Yarmouth is considered the finest in the kingdom, and forms a fashionable and agreeable promenade more than a mile in length. The principal buildings are the Church of St. Nicholas, founded in 1123, and containing a fine organ; the Town-hall, Police-court, Theatre, and Library. On the South Denes, near Yarmouth, stands a beautiful column, 140 feet high, in memory of Nelson. In the neighborhood also Burgh Castle may be visited, one of the most perfect Roman camps in the kingdom. 25I' THETFORD. CAMBRIDGE. [ENGLAND.] ROUTE No. 78. London to Norwich and Wells, via Cambridge and Ely, by the Great Eastern Railway. Time from Liverpool Street to Norwich, 3 h. 35 m.; fare, ~1 3s. 9d.; to Wells from Wymondham Junction; time, 1 h. 28 m.; fare, 5s. Cambridge is a place of great antiquity, but derives its present celebrity from its university, which embraces seventeen colleges and halls. The names are, Catharine Hall, Christ's College, Clare Hall, Corpus Christi, Downing, Emmanuel,Gonville and Caius, Jesus, King's, Queen's, Pembroke, Magdalene, St. John's, Peterholme, Sidney Sussex, Trinity, and Trinity Hall. This university was, by some accounts, founded as far back as 630. Peterholme, the oldest college, dates from 1257. The first charter extant was granted by Edward I. Trinity College, the first of the university, was founded by Henry VIII., and enlarged by Queen Mary. Since the tine of Elizabeth it has been customary for the master of Trinity to entertain the sovereign when on a visit to Cambridge. Sir Isaac Newton, Bacon, Raleigh, Dryden, Cowley, and Lord Byron were members of Trinity. There was a castle built here by William the Conqueror, but nothing now remains but its gate-house. The entire town of Cambridge is embosomed in woods, and but little of it can be seen at a distance. It contains a population of 28,000. The principal hotels are University Arms, Red Lion, Bull, and Woolpack. Visit the magnificent Senate-house belonging to the university, Fitzwilliam Museum, Observatory, and Botanical Gardens. The principal churches are All Saints', Great St. Mary's, and Great St. Stephen's. The last contains a tomb erected in honor of Captain Cook. The town is supplied with water conveyed by an aqueduct from a fountain three miles distant. It is indebted for this improvement to a celebrated horsehirer named Hobson, who insisted, when hiring horses to the students, that they should take them in order, which gave rise to the famous proverb of "Hobson's choice." The distance from London to Ely is 72 miles. Ely is built on the banks of the Ouse, in the Isle of Ely, and contains 7428 232 inhabitants. Hotels, Lamb and Bell. It is chiefly noted for its cathedral, one of the finest in Europe. This building occupies the site of a monastery erected here in 670. It was converted into a cathedral by Henry VIII. Its entire length is 510 feet. The stalls are beautiful specimens of carving, and the roof of the nave is covered with paintings representing the finest subjects in Bible history. Notice also the Church of the Holy Trinity, formerly the Lady Chapel, which is attached to the cathedral. From Ely an excursion may be made to Lynn Regis, situated on the banks of the Ouse, about eight miles from the sea. Population 16,170. This is a clean, well-built town, divided into several parts by small streams called fleets. The harbor is rather difficult of access, but is capable of containing 300 sail. The principal buildings are the Exchange, Guildhall, and St. Margaret's Church, one of the largest in England. Eugene Aram, Bulwer's hero, was usher in the grammar-school of Lynn Regis in 1759, when apprehended for murder. Gray Friar's Lantern, a tower of six sides and ninety feet high, is a fine piece of antiquity. It was built about 1260. Continuing our route from Ely, we pass through Brandon, celebrated for the warrens in its vicinity, one of which sends about 40,000 rabbits to London annually. Thetford is the next place of importance passed. Near the station, on the Suffolk side of the Lesser Ouse, are remains of a priory founded by Roger Bigod in 1104; the same monks afterward removed to the Norfolk side, where ruins also remain. Thomas Howard, second Duke of Norfolk and victor at Flodden Field, was buried here. Thetford was one of the earliest and most important settlements in the eastern counties, and was the chief residence of the East Anglian kings. Even in the reign of Edward III. it boasted twentyfour main streets, twenty churches, and eight monasteries; but now it is little more than a large village, containing nothing of particular interest. At Wymondham Junction a line branches off from the Norwich road to Wells. Passing through Elmham and Ryburgh,which contains a fine church, we reach Fakenham, chiefly celebrated for its corn-market. The church is a large building with a tower, dating from the reign i i I I i i I I I I i I 3 CAM B FR I D G E9 / Jesti; Greeu S i ~~ 5. 7 eslits C~~ >zk~ t s tt - ~ keisie Colo' - 6!9 / (t 26 e4er 1Lai'per Wau&KBook WELLS. [ENGLAND.] NEWARK. of Henry VI., in honor of whom a light was formerly kept burning within the building. Wells is a small trading-port, with a harbor capable of receiving vessels of 200 tons, and contains 3464 inhabitants. The only object of interest in the town is the church, in the Perpendicular style, which has been very fine. Halkham, the residence of the Earl of Leicester, is usually visited from Wells. It is about three miles distant; the gardens are to be seen on Tuesdays during the summer, but the house can not be visited except by special order. The park, nine miles in circuit, contains about 3200 acres-1000 of which are woodland. The trees were chiefly planted by the first Earl of Leicester, who witnessed the launching of a ship at Lynn built of oak from the acorns he himself had planted. Near the house is a fine lake about a mile long, close to which flocks of sheep and herds of bullocks may be seen grazing -a portion of the park consisting of pasture-land, and the remainder abounding in game. The grand approach to the house is on the south, through a triumphal arch, whence an obelisk, eighty feet high, and the first work erected on the estate (in 1729), may be seen. Opposite the house is the Leicester Monument, erected in 1845-48. The interior is filled with ancient marbles, and most beautiful paintings by great masters, of which the Claudes are especially remarkable. There is also a fine collection of drawings, and numerous MSS. and books of value. Halkham Church,within the park, dates from the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries, and is dedicated to St. Withburga,who is believed to have resided here before removing to East Dereharn. In 1868 this church was restored at a cost of ~10,000, of which ~7000 was paid for the wood-carving, there being no less than sixty carved bench-ends, of which no two are alike. Norwich is reached from Wymondham Junction in 35 minutes (see Route No. 77). From Cambridge a branch runs through Newmarket and Bury St. Edmunds to Haughley Junction, where it meets the trains running to Norwich and Ipswich. NeuVnarket contains 2956 inhabitants. Hotels, Rutland Arms and White Hart. The first races held at Newmarket took place during the reign of Charles I.; at the present day there are seven annual meetings, viz.: The "Craven," named after an earl of that name, on Easter-Monday; " First Spring," the following Monday fortnight; "Second Spring," two weeks later; "the July," early in that month; "1st October;" "2d October;" "3d October," or the "Houghton" meeting. The first and last of these are the most celebrated. Bury St. Edmunds contains 13,318 inhabitants. Hotel, Angel. The former importance of this town was entirely owing to its famous abbey, the shrine of St. Edmund (a king of East Anglia, killed by the Danes in 870), of which there are still some existing remains. This shrine was, before the Dissolution, the chief religious centre of Eastern England, and was resorted to by many royal pilgrims. The abbey gate now forms the gateway of the Botanic Gardens, a pleasant place of resort, which partly occupies the site of the great court of the abbey, and throughout which fragments of the ancient buildings lie scattered. Near St. James's Church, a fine building, is an old Norman tower, erected in 1090; this was restored in 1848, at a cost of ~4000. ROUTE No. 79. London to Hull, via Huntingdon, Peterborough, Newark, and Doncaster, from King's Cross. Time, 10 h. 47 m.; fare, ~1 10s. 6d. Huntingdon, containing 6000 inhabitants, is a very ancient town, formerly a Roman station. Remains of a castle erected by Edward the Elder in 917 are still visible. It contains a town-hall, assembly-rooms, and theatre. One mile from the town is the residence of the Earl of Sandwich, formerly belonging to the Cromwell family. A short distance farther is Brampton Park, the residence of the Duke of Manchester. Peterborough, a city of 8000 inhabitants, contains the remains of the cathedral in which Catharine of Aragon was interred; Mary Queen of Scots was first buried here, but her remains were afterward removed to Westminster Abbey by her son, James I. A short distance from the town is Milton Park, the residence of the Earl Fitzwilliam. Here is a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, given by her to SirW. Fitzwilliam the day she was beheaded at Fotheringay Castle. Newark, 120 miles from London, is situated on a branch of the Trent. Hotels, Saracen's Head and Clinton Arms. The castle is the principal object of interest. It was built by Alexander, bishop of Lincoln, 233 YORK.. BEDFORD. [ENGLAND.] during the reign of Stephen. King John olas is partly built. The castle, rebuilt by died here A.D. 1216. Newark was three John of Gaunt,was once the seat of Simon times unsuccessfully besieged by the Par- de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. Nothing liamentary forces in the time of Charles I. now remains but the Great Hall. The Doncaster, 158 miles from London, noted walls and gateway of the famous abbey for its races, held in the third week of Sep- in which Cardinal Wolsey died are other tember, contains 12,000 inhabitants. Ho- objects of interest. tels, New A ngel and Reindeer. Not much object in stopping, unless during race week. Hull, 45 miles from Doncaster, is a convenient place of embarkation to Norway Derby, a manufacturing town, situated and Sweden, Wilson & Son's first-class line on the banks of the Derwent, contains of steamers sailing regularly from this port. 42,000 inhabitants. Hotels: Royal, in the Hotels, Station and Royal. Situated at the town, first-class; and Midland, at the stamouth of the Rivers Humber, Hull, Ouse, tion, good. This commercial town is noted and Trent, Hull is an important sea-port, for its silk, woolen, and cotton stockings; its custom-house duties amounting annu- also for its marble and porcelain works. ally to ~500,000. Wilberforce was a na- The first silk-mill in England was built tive of Hull; a column founded in his here in 1718, and it is now the most honor on the 1st of August, 1834, the day extensive in the kingdom. There is a of negro emancipation, stands near the fine park for the recreation of the inhabPrince's Bridge. The seat of Washing- itants. ton's ancestors, South Cave, may be visited Sheffield is a dingy manufacturing city, from Hull. They emigrated to the United with little to see but the immense cutlery States in the 17th century. There is a establishments. Persons interested in manportrait of Washington at Cave Castle. ufactures had better visit it. It contains ROUTE No. 80. London to Scarborough, via Bedford, Leicester, Derby, Sheffield, and York, from St. Pancras Station by the Midland Railway. Time, 8 hrs. 46 min.; fare, ~2 10d. Bedford, situated on both banks of the River Ouse, is about fifty miles from London. It is a place of great antiquity. It contains a population of 13,413. Hotels, George and Swan. There are several churches in Bedford; among the most interesting, that of St. Peter, which has a Norman door, an antique font, and some old stained glass windows. Bedford is unequaled by any town in England of a similar extent in the magnitude of its charitable and educational establishments. John Bunyan's " Pilgrim's Progress" was composed in the county jail. He was pastor of a Baptist congregation in this town. His birthplace, Elstow, is about a mile distant. The town of Leicester, containing 68,056 inhabitants, is a very ancient place, said to have been founded by King Lear 844 B.C. Hotel, Bell. The Romans had a station here called Ratse, of which many remains may still be seen, including the Jervey wall, out of which the Church of St. Nich234 150,000 inhabitants, and is about 162 miles from London by the Great Northern Railway. Principal hotels, Royal and A iion. The principal buildings are the Town-hall, Cutlers' Hall, Assembly Rooms, Corn Exchange, and Shrewsbury Hospital. Thlere are also a theatre, music-hall, and public baths. York contains a population of 40,000. The principal hotel is the Black Swan. This house has been established for nearly two centuries, and furnishes the traveler with every possible comfort. The hotel is possessed of an interesting relic in the shape of a hand-bill which announces the departure of the stage-coaches for London from the Black Swan at Yo: k every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, beginning on Friday, the 12th of April, 1706. The proprietor has a large stock of good old vintage ports for sale of the years 1834, 1844,1847, 1851, and 1857. York is finely situated on the banks of the Ouse, in the centre of a beautiful plain. It is very ancient, and is only second in the kingdom in point of rank. York has always held a conspicuous place in all the disturbances of the country, particularly in the War of the Roses. It is said to date back nearly a thousand years before Christ. During the time of I i i i 4 i I I I i i "-< O R. K YORK. [ENGLAND.] SCARBOROUGH. the Romans, A.D. 150, it was the capital of Britain. It is inclosed by ancient walls supposed to have been erected in 1280 by Edward I. They now form a most delightful promenade around the city. Constantine the Great is said by some author; to have been born here in 272, but all evidence of this fact is involved in obscurity: his father, Constantius, died here in 307. The Romans removed entirely from the island in 430, leaving the Britons at the mercy of the Picts and Scots. These, however,were finally defeated, in a battle nearYork,by the aid of the Saxons, who immediately turned their arms against those whom they had come to succor, and, after a series of struggles, became masters of the country, and established the Heptarchy. York was the c.pital of the part called Deira. On the 23d of September, 1066, the battle of Stamford Bridge was fought near York, which preceded by only a few days the landing of William the Norman in England. Here Iarold defeated Harfagar, king of Norway, who had invaded England and taken possession of York. Harold entered York in triumph; but, hearing almost immediately of the landing of the Duke of Normandy, he hastened with his forces to meet him, and, nine days after, his triumph at Stamford Bridge lost his crown and life at the battle of Hastings. York was compelled to bow to the conqueror, and was garrisoned by Norman soldiers; but, having thrown off its yoke and massacred the garrison, it was besieged by William, and obliged to surrender on account of famine, when it was razed to the ground. The Cathedral was founded by Edwin, king of Northumberland, in 625, but was principally erected in the 13th and 14th centuries, and, although composed of five different styles of Gothic architecture, such care was taken in uniting the several parts that the whole edifice appeared as one design. It consists of a nave and two aisles, a transept with aisles, a choir with aisles, vestries, chapels, chapter-house, and vestibule. Its length is 524 feet, the second longest in England; length of transept, 222; length of nave, 264; height, 99 feet. At the east end is a splendid window, a work of the 15th century, 75 feet long by 32 broad. The oldest part of the cathedral is the south transept, built in 1246 by Archbishop De Grey, whose tomb is one of the finest VOL. I-L in the church. From Paulinns, who was appointed archbishop of York in 625, down to the present time, York has had no less than ninety-two archbishops. It is also the only city except London which boasts a lord mayor. York Castle, erected by William I., is another object of interest. It is now used as a jail, and includes the courts of law. The only part which retains the appearance of an ancient castle is the keep, or Clifford's Tower, a picturesque ruin overgrown with trees and ivy. Among the objects of interest to be visited at York are the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, founded in 1094 by three Benedictines on ground granted them by the Earl of Richmond. The abbey-church is the principal of the existing ruins. Near the river is the Hospitium or guest-hall of the ancient monastery. Here are arranged some interesting antiquities found in York and its neighborhood. Near the Hospitium is a Roman cemetery, discovered in 1873 in choosing the route of the Northeastern Railway. Among the public buildings worthy of notice are Guildhall, containing a memorial window to the late prince consort; the Assembly Rooms, Music Hall, and the Museum, which contains various Roman and Saxon remains. York is famous for its cure of hams. A few miles west of the city is 3Marston Moor, the scene of one of the principal engagements between the armies of Charles I. and the Parliament. Farther to the southeast is the village of Lowton, where a sanguinary battle was fought during the War of the Roses. Scarborough, one of England's most celebrated watering-places, is one hour and a quarter from York, and is well worth a visit. The Crown hotel, situated on the cliff immediately above the Spa, has one of the best positions for a hotel in England: its sea and land views are both exquisite. The house itself is well managed by Mr. J.Williamson. The Royal hotel is a gem of cleanliness and neatness; it has a beautiful ballroom, used exclusively for that purpose, where balls are given every Friday evening. Scarborough is, perhaps, a prettier place, as far as scenery is concerned, than either Brighton or Torquay. The last two places are barren and treeless, but here the bluffs are covered with verdure from summit to base, and the bay is equal to 235 NOTTINGHAM. [ENGLAND.] NEWSTEAD ABBEY. any in Europe, except, perhaps, that of Naples. The beach is superb. A fine terrace, one hundred feet above the level of the sands, forms a delightful marine promenade. A handsome iron bridge, 414 feet in length, connects the dissevered cliffs, anr is one of the greatest ornaments of the town. The springs of Scarborough are saline chalybeates; the west and south wells are the most important, and here stands the Spa House, the great place of resort. The whole length of the building facing the sea is covered with a veranda, on which seats are placed, and these are always filled, while a crowd of saunterers in double file are passing each other on the promenade. In the gardens the band plays twice a day, sheltered by an ornamental kiosk much resembling in form the one before the Kursaal at Baden. The walks and terraces in the vicinity of the Spa are every thing that exquisite masonry, macadam, lawn, and flowers can make them. Scarborough Castle stands on a promontory 300 feet above the level of the sea. It was built during the reign of King Stephen by William, Earl of Albemarle. The keep is the only part of the castle remaining: it is a square tower nearly 100 feet in height, with walls twelve feet thick. ROUTE No. 81. Derby to Nottingham and Lincoln, by branch line of the Midland Railway. Time, 1 hr. 48 min.; fare, 6s. 3d. For Derby, see Route No. 80. Nottingham, situated on the River Lene, about a mile north of the Trent. Hotels, George and Lion. It is the centre of the hosiery and glove trade of Notts, Leicester, and Derby. There are, altogether, about 100,000 persons employed. The castle was built by William Peverell, the Conqueror's nephew. Richard II.'s widow, Isabella, lived here with her favorite, Roger Mortimer, until betrayed to Edward III., who found an entrance through a secret pas236 sage in the rock, still called Mortimer's Hole, and executed the favorite. Charles I., in 1540, here first hoisted his flag against Parliament, on a hill in the Park, now called Standard Hill. Newstead Abbey, formerly the seat of Lord Byron, is about eleven miles distant from Nottingham. "Newstead! fast falling, once resplendent dome! Religion's shrine, repentant Henry's pride! Of warriors, monks, and dames the cloister'd tomb, Whose pensive shades around thy ruins glide. ' Hail to thy pile! more honor'd.in thy fall Than modern mansions in their pillar'd state; Proudly majestic frowns thy vaulted hall, Scowling defiance on the blast of fate. i' Newstead! what saddening change of scene is thine! Thy yawning arch betokens slow decay; The last and youngest of a noble line Now holds thy mouldering turrets in his sway. i" Deserted now, lie scans thy gray-worn towers — Tly vaults,wlhere dead of feudal ages sleepThy cloisters pervious to the wintry showers - These, these he views, and views them but to weep. " Yet are his tears no emblem of regret; lCherish'd affection only bids them flow; Pride, hope, and love forbid him to forget, But warm his bosom with impassion'd glow. "Yet he prefers thee to the gilded domes, Or gewgaw grottoes of the vainly great; Yet lingers 'mid thy damp and mossy tombs, Nor breathes a murmur 'gainst the will of fate. "1 Iaply thy sun, emerging, yet may shine, Thee to irradiate with meridian ray; Hours splendid as the past may still be thine, And bless thy future as thy former day." This abbey was founded in the year 1170, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary by Henry II. It continued in the possession of the Byrons until our poet sold it and appropriated the proceeds for the jointure of the Hon. Mrs. Byron. Lord Byron repaired a large portion of this beautiful Gothic structure, but paying more special attention to the inside than the exterior, entirely neglecting the roof, the rain penetrated to the apartments, and in a few years destroyed the elaborate ornaments which his lordship had bestowed upon it. The neat little apartment which Lord Byron used as his study was decorated with a select collection of books, good classic busts, a sword in a gilt case, an antique cross, several skulls, etc. Newstead, formerly in the possession of Colonel Wildman, who improved it greatly, and displayed most exquisite taste and genius upon it, is now the property of Mr.Wil z dwmm 4 40 0 p;r-4 Cr a P c -C -d 9 :,. M 1 CZ I-IC-= -e! Joan r.:w %4 4d 9w w 9:( CZ ui FZIj I I 1 a, I "i. i I I I t -1 I I.NZ. 0 o I r LINCOLN. [ENGLAND.] GREAT GRIMSBY. liamWebb. On one occasion,while clearing teen, which, together with the ruins of the the lake, a brass eagle was found, in whose Bishop's Palace, those of John of Gaunt's breast was concealed the abbey papers, Palace, the Chapter-house, Guildhall, and sealed up. This eagle is now in Southwell Court-house, are among the remaining obChurch. In the garden, Byron's favorite jects to be seen at Lincoln. dog Boatswain is buried, with the wellknown epitaph. Three miles farther is Annesley Hall, where lived Mary Chaworth, Byron's first love. On a little oaken door in the garden-wall marks may still be seen of Lord Byron's balls, who used it for a target. On the line of the Midland Railway, running between Nottingham and Leicester, stands Loughborougqh, 116 miles from London, which carries on an extensive lace and hosiery trade. Lincoln, the capital of Lincolnshire, and a place of considerable importance under ROUTE No. 82. the Romans, is about one hour's distance Shefield to Great Grimsby, via Gainsfrom Nottingham by rail, and contains borough, by rail. Time, 3hrs. 10min.; fare, 20,999 inhabitants. Hotels, Great North- 8s. 2d. era and Saracen's JIead. A castle was Sheffield, see Route No. 80. erected here in 1086 by William the Con- Passing through Retford, a town requeror, the remains of which are still to turning two members to Parliament,which be seen in the town. The Cathedral is carries on a considerable trade in hops and the principal building of interest in the manufacturers' paper, sail-cloth, etc., we town: it is situated on the summit of a hill reach Gainsborough. This town, which commanding a good view of the town, and consists of one longi street running paralwas first founded during the reign of lel with the River Trent, on the right bank William Rufus; it was reconstructed un- of which it is situated, twenty-one miles der Honrv II., and dedicated to the Virgin above that river's junction with the HumMary, and, besides the beauties visible in ber, contains a population of 6320. Beits choir, screen, Lady-chapel, and circular sides a church dating from 1748 and the windows, it contains many fine and inter- town-hall, there is an interesting ancient esting monuments. The Great Tom, or building called the Old Hall, formerly surcelebrated bell of this cathedral, is only rounded by a moat, and composed of oakexceeded in size by two others in the king- timber framing. The river admits vessels domi -- the "Mighty Tom" of Oxford, of from 150 to 200 tons, by means of which weighing 7 tons 15 cwt., and the Great a considerable inward and coasting trade Tom of Exeter, which weighs 6 tons. The is carried on. bell of Lincoln was first cast in 1610, but Great Grimsby is an hour and a half dishaving cracked in 1627, it was broken and tant from Gainsborough by rail. It is an recast with six others into the present ancient town of some importance, which bell-weighing 5 tons 8 cwt., 6 feet 10~ formerly went by the name of Gryme, and inches in diameter-and two quarter bells which was able to furnish 11 vessels and which were hung in the central tower in 170 mariners to Edward III. for his expe1835. In the cloisters on the north side dition against Calais. The town now conof the cathedral a Roman pavement is pre- tains 15,060 inhabitants, and carries on a served-indeed, the city abounds in Roman considerable trade by means of the River antiquities as well as interesting architect- Humber, near which it is situated. Wareural and monastic remains; of these, the houses and timber-yards are numerous, Newport Gate is one of the finest speci- and the new docks, commenced in 1849, are mens of Roman architecture to be found in very fine. The principal church is that England. The churches of Lincoln at the of St. James's, with a beautiful steeple and time of the Reformation were about fifty some ancient monuments. in number; they are now reduced to four- Great Grimsby is connected with Peter237 LOUTH. [ENGLAND.] RIPON. borough by the East Lincolnshire Railway, running through Louth and Boston. Louth is a town of 10,560 inhabitants, situated on the River Ludd, and carries on an export trade in corn and wool. Carpets, blankets, rugs, soap, and paper are also manufactured. In addition to the session house, guildhall, and assembly rooms, there is a fine church (St. James's), possessing an elegant tower and spire 288 feet in height. Boston contains 17,893 inhabitants. It derives its name from St. Botolph's Monastery, built here in 654, and destroyed by the Danes in 870. St. Botolph's Church, built in 1309, is the principal object of interest. It is a spacious building, measuring 245 feet in length and 98 in width,with a tower visible at sea for nearly forty miles; this tower has a lantern-shaped top, and is about 300 feet high. Boston carries on a considerable trade in timber, hemp, tar, and iron; it is connected by means of canals with Derby, Nottingham, Gainsborough, and Lincoln, and has railway communication with all parts of the kingdom. ROUTE No. 83. London to Edinburgh, via Berwick-uponTweed, through Doncaster, Leeds, Durham, and Newcastle, by rail. Time,9 hrs. 30 min.; fare, ~3 10s. For distance from London to Doncaster, see Route No. 79. Leeds, the principal seat of woolen manufacture in England, and the fifth town in size and commercial prosperity, is about eleven miles from Bradford. It is beautifully situated on the banks of the Aire, and contains nearly 236,000 inhabitants. The principal hotels are the Great Northern and Queen's. Leeds is irregularly built, and the streets are narrow and crooked. Besides the production of woolen goods, Leeds has many large establishments for 2W, flax-spinning, with glass-house, potteries, and factories for making steam-engines. One of the most interesting sights here is a view of the cloth-halls on market-days. The Town-hall is one of the finest buildings: it includes the Assize Courts and the great hall, one of the largest rooms in the kingdom, capable of holding 8000 persons. In the centre of the room is a statue of the queen in white marble. There is also a fine organ and a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington. The building was opened by the queen in 1858 on her visit to Leeds. Near Leeds are the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, which will well repay a visit. The abbey was founded in the 12th century by Henry de Lacy for monks of the Cistercian order. The tower, doorway, and other remains are covered with ivy. Twenty-one miles fiom Leeds is the village of Haworth, the place of residence of Charlotte, Anne, and Emily Bronte, authoresses of "Jane Eyre," "Villette," "Wuthering Heights," etc. North Allerton is passed before reaching Durham. Near this town the celebrated battle of the Standard was fought in 1138, when David, King of Scotland, and his forces suffered defeat. Durham stands on a rocky eminence nearly surrounded by the River Wear. Population 14,088. This city is principally visited for its Cathedral, one of the finest in England. A church was first built on the site of the cathedral, at the end of the 10th century, by the monks of Lindisfarne, who rested here with the remains of St. Cuthbert. The present building was begun in 1093, and is built chiefly in the Norman style. It is in the form of a cross, 420 feet long and 92 high. Durham Castle was first built by William the Conqueror, and has been until recently the residence of the Bishops of the Palatinate. It consists of a large, solid keep, and a great hall 180 feet in length. It is now occupied by the University, which was opened in 1832. About a mile west of Durham is Neville's Cross, where David Bruce was defeated in 1346. Ripon is 24 miles from Leeds. Hotels, Unicorn, Crown, and Anchor. The great object of interest in Ripon is the Cathedral, the first stone of which was laid in 1331; the building was not finished, however, until more than a century later. Under I On'-wen' 7~unforv Exeter t1< dI41ow LYvitiW ur, JAM LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY - axd its coniinuica-tions/ Harper's ilatl-Book. NEWCAST LE-UPON-Ty.,qn. [ENGLAND.] BERWICK-UPON-TWEED. the cathedral is a small Saxon chapel, be the finest in the kingdom. Of the called St.Wilfrid's Needle, after the found- churches, St. Nicholas's, a Gothic cross er of the original minster. Three miles with a beautiful spire, and St. Andrew's, and a half from Ripon are Studley Royal of Norman architecture, are the finest. and Fountain Abbey, the property of Lord Of the old castle, the keep, 80 feet high, De Grey and Ripon. The latter is perhaps now used as a prison, and the beautiful the finest ruin in England, covering two Norman chapel, still remain. Gateshead, acres of ground, though it formerly ex- on the opposite bank of the Tyne, is a subtended over ten acres. The abbey was urb of Newcastle. They are connected by erected in 1132 by monks of the Cistercian the High-Level Bridge, a splendid iron order; eight years later it was burned structure 1400 feet long, the work of Robdown, but was speedily rebuilt, and became ert Stephenson. one of the wealthiest monasteries in the A short distance out of our route to Berkingdom. The tower and the walls, built wick is A Inwick Castle, the residence of the in the Gothic style, are still standing, the Duke of Northumberland. This building roof alone having gone to ruin. The do- belonged to a Saxon baron, slain at the main of Studley is open to the public every battle of Hastings, and has been in the posweek-day until five o'clock. The house session of the Percy family since the becontains a fine collection of paintings. At ginning of the 14th century. The build. Newby Hall, also the property of the Earl ing has lately been restored and fitted up De Grey, four miles from Ripon, there is in the most magnificent style. In the the finest private collection of statuary to grounds, which are very beautiful, are the be seen in the United Kingdom. ruins of two ancient abbeys, Alnwick and Newocastle-upon-Tqne is situated on the Hulme, the former founded in 1147, the latnorth bank of the River Tyne, about ten ter in 1240. Six miles distant are the miles above its mouth. It has a popula- ruins of Warnrorth Castle, also belonging tion of 111,157. This place derives its ori- to the Percy family. This building is gin from the Roman station Pons _Eii, the very large, and the walls in many places second from the eastern extremity of Ha- entire. The famous hermitage,where one drian's Wall. It was called Monkchester of the Bertrams of Bothal-Bothal passed before the Conquest, owing to the number his life in penance for the murder of his of its monasteries. The castle erected brother, is half a mile distant. here by Robert, son of William the Con- Berwick-upon-Tweed, sixty-three miles queror, gave it its present name. Along from Newcastle, stands on the border of the banks of the river, where most of the England, and during the BorderWars waa business is carried on, the streets and continually taken and retaken both by houses are dim and dingy, but in the cen- Scotch and English. It was made inde-.tre of the town all this has been swept pendent of both countries by Henry VIII. away, and magnificent streets and squares Here Baliol was crowned King of Scotland have been erected in their place. This great by Edward I., and here also he shut up change is owing to Mr. Grainger, a native the Countess of Buchan for six years, in a of the town. Newcastle is chiefly occu- wicker cage. pied in the shipment of coals, of which Edinburgh is reached from Berwick in three millions of tons are shipped annual- 1 hr. 35 min., and Glasgow in 3 hrs. 30 ly. Newcastle has been the scene of min. many interesting events: David I. of Scotland made himself master of the town during the reign of Stephen; in 1292, John Baliol did homage here to Edward I. for the crown of Scotland; and during the reign of Edward II. an attempt was also made here to establish a permanent peace between England and Scotland. The prin- ROUTE No. 84. cipal buildings of interest are the Ex- London to Liverpool and Manchester, via change, Guildhall, Post-office, and the Rugby, Stafford, and Crewe, by rail from Market-house, 240 feet long, and said to Euston Square and the London and North289 RUGBY. [ENGLAND.] LIVERPOOL. western Railway to Liverpool in 5 hrs.; fare, ~1 15s.; to Manchester in 4 hrs. 50 min.; fare, ~1 12s. 6d. Time from Crewe to Manchester, 1 hr. 7 min. Rugby is principally famous for its grammar-school, founded during the reign of Elizabeth by Lawrence Sheriff. It has since become one of the finest in the kingdom, owing principally to the exertions of the late celebrated scholar, Dr. Arnold. A mile and a half from Rugby is Bilton Hall, formerly the residence of Addison. Addison's Walk, a long avenue in the garden, was so called from having been his favorite promenade. Coventry, about twelve miles from Rugby (out of our direct route), is a city of great antiquity. Population 41,647. Coventry takes its name, like Covent Garden in London, from a monastery founded by Leofric the Saxon, and his wife Godiva, in the 11th century. The story is well known of Godiva's riding naked through the town to take away a heavy tax from the people. The Miracle Plays were acted here by the Gray Friars at the feast of Corpus Christi, and were often witnessed by Henry VI. Coventry carries on a large trade in watches and ribbons, of which it is the seat of manufacture. Hotels, King's Head and Castle. For Tamworth, the next place of importance passed, see Route No. 87. Stafford, a long, straggling town, about 132 miles from London, has a population of 12,532. It is principally noted for its manufacture of boots and shoes. There are two ancient churches, St. Mary's, in the early Gothic style, and St. Chad's, which is principally Norman work. The castle was built in 913, by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great; a part of the ancient keep may still be seen at Stafford Castle, the seat of Lord Stafford. Stockport, the next place of any importance, is chiefly noted for its cotton manufactories. There are between fifty and sixty factories in and around the town; Marsland's, one of the largest, is 300 feet long, and has six hundred windows. Crewe, 166 miles from London, is entirely a town of modern growth, with a population of from 5000 to 6000, composed chiefly of railway officials belonging to the London and Northwestern Railway, who have here, in addition to one of the largest junc240 tions in the world, an immense establishment for the fabrication of every thing necessary on the railways. The town derives its name from Crewe Hall, the seat of Lord Crewe, situated at a short distance from the station..lanchester is the great centre and capital of the cotton manufacture, and contains, with its suburb Salford, 366,836 inhabitants. Hotel, Allion-very good. Manchester is situated on the River Irwell, an affluent of the Mersey, and is connected with Salford by six bridges. One of them, the Victoria, is very handsome. It contains many interesting buildings, the principal of which are the Cathedral Church of St. Mary's, an ancient Gothic structure containing numerous monuments,with several chapels highlyornamented. St. Mary's Chapel, and that of the Derby family, are most deserving of notice. The Exchange, Town- hall, Museum of Natural History, Commercial Rooms, and New Bailey Prison, all deserve particular attention. The Botanical Garden, and Peel and Victoria Parks, are the principal places of recreation for the inhabitants. The great lions of the place are the immense cotton mills, which send out yearly 125,000,000 lbs. of manufactured cotton goods. Every branch of the cotton manufacture is here carried on to an enormous extent. Iron and brass founderies are also numerous, and numberless other branches of business required for the supply of the wants of a large population. Liverpool is situated on the River Mersey. It is the second city in the kingdom, and contains about 500,676 inhabitants. Principal hotels: Adelphi, Compton, and North Western. The Adelphi has been entirely rebuilt, and is now one of the largest in England, and retains a name not surpassed by any house in Europe; it is situated in the most fashionable quarter in Liverpool, and admirably managed by Mr. Ludlow. The Compton Hotel, situated in Church Street, in the most central and fashionable quarter of Liverpool, adjacent to the several railway termini, admirably conducted by Mr. Russell, the proprietor. Liverpool is noted for the magnificence of its docks, which are constructed on a most stupendous scale, covering, with the drydocks, 200 acres, with 15 miles of quays. eii 0711J'gazwn Ob~e~o4 i~Pat ro A>7 JA P4PW&, / e~~,/$ 4 0 /E /1/ omauopai' J. #,vjundopsilrpr' Harper's I II L IV E PROO0L I, ll - -—,:. Y IS 1? l y E RF 1 '1i rry I 1a"per5 e F I LIVERPOOL. [ENGLAND.] ROUTES. Nearly one third of its trade is with the United States. The cotton which formerly arrived here annually amounted to 2,500,000 bales. The principal buildings of Liverpool are the Assize Courts, Custom-house, St. George's Hall, Exchange, and Town-hall, which is a fine Palladian building surmounted by a dome supporting a statue of Britannia. It contains statues of Roscoe and Canning by Chantrey; also a number of portraits. The interior is divided into many fine saloons, elegantly fitted up. A Free Library has been erected by Sir William Brown. In the square at the Exchange is a monument in bronze, executed by Westmacott, in honor of Nelson, representing the dying hero receiving a naval crown of victory, and an enemy prostrate and crushed beneath his feet. At the junction of London Road and Pembroke Place there is a magnificent equestrian statue of George III. by the same artist. The Collegiate and Mechanics' Institutions of Liverpool are highly important educational establishments, and there are several others for the encouragement of art and science. The Derby Museum and Philharmonic Hall are well worth a visit. St. James's Cemetery, very elegantly planned, is located behind St. James's Walk. It was formed out of a quarry of white stone. Near the entrance is a pretty little chapel containing some fine sculpture. A monument has been erected over the remains of Mr. Huskisson, with a fine white marble statue of deceased habited in a toga. Religious worship exists here in almost every form. There are a number of charitable institutions, many of them of a religious character. There are six theatres in Liverpool in addition to the Amphitheatre and Assembly Rooms. The Wellington Rooms, at Mount Pleasant, are large and finely arranged. A drive should be taken through the Prince's, Newsome, Stanley, and Sefton parks. The best and quickest routes from Liverpool to the principal ports of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America: Liverpool to Cork, Ireland (daily); time, 26 hours; fare about $5 25. Liverpool to Dublin (daily); time, 9 hours; fare, $3 37A. VOL. I.-L 2 Liverpool to Londonderry (several times each week); fare, $3 12~. Liverpool to Sligo, calling at Portrush to visit the Giant's Causeway (weekly); fare, $3 121. Liverpool to New York: by the Inman Line, $75; Cunard Line, $130, $100, and $80; National Line, $65, $75, and $85; Guion Line, $80; White Star Line, $80. Average time, 10 days. Several of these lines dispatch two ships weekly. Liverpool to Quebec; time, 10 days; fare, $94 and $63. Liverpool to Philadelphia (weekly). Liverpool to Baltimore and NVofolk (monthly); fare, $94 50. Liverpool to Befatst, Ireland (daily); time, 10 hours; fare, $3 124. Liverpool to Bangor and the Menai Bridge (several times each week). Liverpool to Gibraltar, Malta, and Algiers (weekly); fare to Gibraltar, $40; Malta, $60; Algiers, $75. Liverpool to Constantinople (several times per month), via Gibraltar; time, 23 days. This line (Burns and MacIver's) also dispatches steamers to Palermo, Messina, Corfu, Patras, Ancona, Trieste, and Venice, several times each month, via Paris and Marseilles; time, 9 days. Liverpool to Alexandria, Egypt (weekly), via Gibraltar; fare, $75. Liverpool to Bordeaux (weekly); fare, $17 50. Liverpool to Boston (weekly-Cunard's); fare, $110. Liverpool to Bristol (weekly); time, 28 hours; fare, $3 124. Liverpool to Douglas, Isle of Man (daily); time, 5 hours; fare, $1 50. The same line runs weekly to Ramsey. Liverpool to IIalifax Nova Scotia (weekly); fare, $94. Liverpool to Lisbon (twice a month); time, 5 days; fare, $30. Liverpool to Para, Maranham, and Ceara, Brazil, touching at Havre and Lis. bon; fare to any of the Brazilian ports, $125. Liverpool to the Isle of Whithorn; fare, $2 50. Liverpool to Rio Janeiro (1st, 12th, and 20th of each month). Liverpool to St. Johns, Newfoundland (monthly). Liverpool to San Franciseo, via the In241 ETON. [ENGLAN V.] OXFORD. man Line of steamers and those of the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company (weekly). Liverpool to the VWest India Islands (on the 20th of each month). Liverpool to Valpl)uraiso, by the Pacific Steam Navigation Company; stopping at Bordeaux, Lisbon, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo, Arica, Islay, and Callao (every week); time, 33 days. Liverpool to the Principal Towns cn the West Coast of Africa (monthly), by the African Steam-ship Company's Line. Liverpool to Yokohama, by the Pacific Steam-ship Company (twice a week); and via Trieste by the Austrian Lloyd's steamers to Alexandria; to Suez by rail, and via the Peninsular and Oriental steamers to Aden, Point de Galle, Calcutta, and Hong Kong; fare, $560. ROUTE No. 85. London tb Liverpool, via Reading, Oxford, Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick, Birmingham, Shrewsbury, Chester, and Birkenhead, by rail from Paddington. Time, 7 hrs. 25 min.; fare, ~1 9s. Distance, 229 miles. Twenty-one miles and a quarter from London we pass Windsor, already described in Route No. 72. Five miles from Windsor is Stoke Pogis, where resided William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania. Here also lived and is buried the poet Gray. The church-yard is the scene of his "Elegy written in a Country Church-yard," well known to all readers. Eton, noted for its college, and for the many celebrated men who received their education there, lies on the north bank of the Thames, immediately opposite Windsor. Hotels, Great Western and George. Eton College was founded in 1440 by Henry VI. The total number of scholars 242 amounts usually to about 850. The library contains a very valuable collection of books, and a fine assortment of Oriental MSS. In the ante-chapel is a marble statue of the founder, in his royal robes, and another of bronze in the principal court. Many of England's great men were educated here; among others, we amy mention the famous Earl of Chatham, Boyle, West, Fox, Canning, Hallam the historian, and the Duke of Wellington. Reading, the capital of the county of Berkshire, is a place of great antiquity, having existed in the time of the Saxons. Hotels, Great Western and George. It was taken by the Danes in the 9th century, after they had defeated Alfred the Great. The town is situated at the junction of the Thames and Kennet, and has a population of 25,045. Of the Abbey, founded by Henry I. in 1125 to atone for putting out his brother Robert Curthose's eyes, only a Norman gate and part of the outer walls are left. Archbishop Laud, Merrick the po3t, Addington the premier, and Lord Chancellor Phipps, were all Reading men, and were edccated in the grammar-school. Across the river, at a little distance, stood Old Caversham House, in which Charles I. was confined after the affair of Holmby. Oxford is beautifully situated at the confluence of the Cherwell, Thames, and Isis. Its population is 31,404. Hotels: the two best are the Randolph and Clarendon; the last is admirably managed by Mr. Atwood. This place is of very remote antiquity, and is the seat of the most celebrated university in the world. It possesses no manufactures of importance, and is chiefly dependent on the University, which consists of twenty colleges, and six halls for the residence of the students. Pupils are received at any age in the halls, but they must be over eighteen years before entering the colleges. The colleges are principally situated on the main street, which, with the churches, other public edifices, and trees, presents as agreeable and imposing an appearance as any street in the world. The names of the colleges are University, Merton, Baliol, Exeter, Oriel, Queen's, New College, All Souls', Lincoln, Magdalen, Corpus Christi, Brazenose, Trinity, Jesus, St. John's, Christ Church, Pembroke, Wadham, Keble, and Worcester. It is said that University College was found ::$I OX FIORD 'N4 Muieumn / (7 ielo Ch-Mert~on F'ield ~ ~ _ ~d4~i 4ltrt Ch C1II Harper's~ tiatu-Book BLENHEIM. [ENGLAND.] LEAMINGTON. ed by Alfred the Great, who resided here. Baliol College conies next in antiquity. Christ Church College, the largest and most magnificent (250 pupils), owes its foundation to Cardinal Wolsey, 1524. The hall is one of the finest in the kingdom, and contains a large collection of portraits. The bell, called "Great Tom," weighs 17,000 lbs. At ten minutes past nine every night it strikes 101 strokesthat is, as many as there are students on the foundation. The total number of students at the University at present is about 2411. The Bodleian Library, founded by Sir Thomas Bodley in the 16th century-considered the finest collection in Europe-is next in size in England to the British Museum; contains 240,000 volumes. There is also a picture-gallery here. The schools containing the Arundelian Marbles and Pomfret Statues are connected with the University. In the Museum are many interesting antiquities and relics, Guy Fawkes's lantern among the number. The gardens belonging to the colleges are extremely beautiful; and the lovely promenades of Christ Church Meadows and Magdalen Walks are of great extent and beauty. Ridley, Latimer, and Cranmer were burned at Oxford in front of Baliol College during the reign of Bloody Mary. A most beautiful monument was erected near the spot. This city suffered much during the ravages of the Danes. Edmund Ironsides was murdered here. It was the residence of Canute; and his son, Harold Harefoot, was crowned and died here. It was stormed in 1067 by William the Conqueror; and part of the same castle that was erected by him is now used as the county jail. It was the favorite residence of Henry I., who built a palace here. Henry II. also resided here, during which time his son, the valiant Richard Coeur de Lion, was born. Oxford contains a very fine theatre, designed and erected by Sir Christopher Wren. From Oxford an excursion of nine miles should be made to Blenheim, the magnificent residence of the Duke of Marlborough. This building was erected during the reign of Queen Anne, Parliament granting half a million for the purpose. It contains a fine library and collection of pictures. The proprietor of the Clarendon has good sta bles, and will provide carriages for the excursion. The Duke of Marlborough's residence is one hour's distance by carriage from the town. This earthly paradise was erected during the reign of Queen Anne, and presented by the British nation to the great Duke of Marlborough after his victory at Blenheim, Parliament voting $2,500,000 for that purpose. The park, consisting of 2700 acres, is filled with flocks of sheep and herds of deer, and is considered the most glorious domain the sun ever shone upon. The immediate grounds surrounding the palace, which is situated near the borders of a lovely lake, are filled with trees, plants, and flowers from every quarter of the globe, the whole embellished with lovely walks, fountains, and waterfalls. In the centre of the lawn stands a Corinthian pillar, 130 feet high, surmounted by a statue of the duke. On the pedestal are inscribed his public services, written by Lord Bolingbroke. The principal front of the building is 350 feet long. The interior is magnificently finished, and contains a fine collection of sculptures and paintings: among the latter are some of Titian's and Rubens's masterpieces. The library is 200 feet long, and contains nearly 18,000 volumes. About eight miles from Oxford is situ, ated the ancient town of Woodstock. It contains 8000 inhabitants. Hotel, Bear. This town, noted for its manufacture of gloves, was long the residence of Henry II., and also the fair Rosamond. Edward I. held a Parliament here in 1275. It was also the birthplace of the illustrious Black Prince. It contains a handsome townhall. Thirty-five miles from Woodstock and ninety-seven from London is the wateringplace ofLeamington, a place of great resort, and noted for its medicinal springs. We would advise travelers to stop here and make their excursions to Warwick and Kenilworth. The Regent is the best hotel in Leamington. Mr. Bishop, the proprietor, has fine horses and carriages for making the excursions in the neighborhood. Population 16,000. The mineral waters are very efficacious in diseases of the skin. The environs are particularly interesting. The town contains assembly rooms, ballrooms, magnificent pump and bath rooms, 243 KENILWORTH CASTLE. [ENGLAND.] STRATFORD-ON-AV0ON. reading and library rooms, a museum, picture-gallery, and theatre. The views of the Castle of Kenilworth are the most splendid and magnificent in the United Kingdom. They are only five miles from the town of Leamington, and a day may be well spent in their examination. Sir Walter Scott has immortalized their ivy-covered, "cloud-capped towers" in his novel of the same name, which every one who has not read should do before he visits this glorious ruin. The castle was founded by Geoffrey de Clinton, lord chamberlain to Henry I. Henry III. gave it to the famous Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. After this nobleman took up arms against the king, it was the favorite resort of his insurgent friends. After the earl had fled to France, the rebels held out six months against the entire forces of the kingdom. Edward II.was imprisoned here. In the reign of Edward I., the Earl of Leicester held a tournament here, which was attended by one hundred knights and their ladies. In the reign of Edward III. it came into possession of the famous John of Gaunt, Edward's third son, who bequeathed it to his son Henry Bolingbroke, afterward Henry IV., after which it remained the property of the crown until Elizabeth presented it to her favorite, Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who entertained the virgin queen here in 1566,1568, and 1575. The "royal progress" of Queen Bess is described by Scott.. It is said that Leicester spent $85,000 in seventeen days' entertainment, which is equivalent to half a million at the present time. The castle was plundered by the soldiers of Cromwell. After the Restoration, it was presented to Sir Edward Hyde by Charles II., who also created him Earl of Clarendon and Baron of Kenilworth, in whose family it has remained to the present day. Two miles to the west of Leamington is Warwick, situated on the east bank of the Avon. It is principally noted for its historical associations and famous ancient castle, the magnificent residence of the Earl of Warwick. The principal object of interest in the town is the Church of St. Mary's, which contains many magnificent monuments; that of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, next to the monument of Henry VII., in Westminster Abbey, is considered the finest in England. Here is 244 also the monument of Elizabeth's favorite, Dudley, Earl of Leicester. On a mighty rock, at the base of which flows the Avon, is situated the celebrated Castle of Warwick, protected by embattled walls and stupendous towers, covered without with ivy, and within with frescoes and elegant paintings. It is at the present time, notwithstanding its antiquity, considered one of the most magnificent places in the kingdom. The exact date of its erection is unknown; the most ancient part of the structure being Caesar's Tower, 148 feet high. Within every thing is on the grandest scale; the principal suite of apartments extends 334 feet in a straight line, and is filled with paintings and other works of art; in the armory many curious relics are shown. The views from Guy's Tower, 128 feet high, erected in 1394, are very fine. The celebrated antique vase found in the Emperor Adrian's villa at Tivoli, and known as the "Warwick Vase," may be seen in the greenhouse; it is capable of holding one hundred and sixty-eight gallons. Guy's Cliff should be visited: it is only a short distance from the castle: here the famous Earl Guy and his wife are buried. Stratford-on- Avon, celebrated as the birthplace of William Shakspeare, lies eight miles southwest of Warwick. Principal Hotel, Red Horse, where the traveler may well put up for a day or two. This house is known as the Washington Irving Hotel, that author having stopped here. In the parlor is a chair with his name engraved on a brass plate; also his poker, Geoffrey's sceptre, to which he alludes in his Sketch-book. The house in which the "immortal bard" was born has been purchased by subscription,that it may be preserved for future generations. The room in which the poet is said to have been born is in its original state. There are deeds in the museum (situated in the house, admission sixpence) which prove that his father resided in this house. In one of the upper rooms is the " Stratford portrait" of the author, and it is of undoubted authenticity, having been in Mr. Hunt's family for over a century. Among the leading relics in the museum we enumerate the following: Deed made in 1596, proving that John Shakspeare, father of the poet, resided in the house called the Birthplace; the celebrated Letter from Mr. Richard 0 B I RM I NGHA M Rai-per's Ilan4l Book BIRMINGHAM. [ENGLAND.] SHREWSBURY. Quyney to Shakspeare, in 1598, asking for a loan of ~30, the only letter addressed to ihakspeare known to exist; the Declaration of Uses relating to New Place and other Shakspearian property, 1647: Susan Hall, daughter, and Elizabeth Nash, granddaughter to the poet, are parties to this deed; Shakspeare's gold Signet Ring,with the initials W. S. and a true-lover's knot between; ancient Desk, said to have been Shakspeare's, removed from the Grammarschool; Cast (considered to be the best) from the bust in the chancel, by Bullock: two only were taken; the old Sign of the Falcon at Bedford, where Shakspeare is said to have drunk too deep; Model in plaster of Shakspeare asleep under the crab-tree, by E. Grubb; Shakspeare's Jugr, from which Garrick sipped wine at the Jubilee in 1769; a Pliial, hermetically sealed, containing juice from mulberries gathered from Shakspeare's mulberry-tree: the tree was cut down in 1758; Specimen from an original copy of "The Merry Wives of Windsor;" a Sword of Shakspeare's, formerly in the possession of Alderman Payton, besides numerous portraits of the poet. We notice a tribute to Shakspeare in the following verse, written by Lucien Bonaparte during his visit to the spot, and which hangs framed in the Museum: "The eye of genius glistens to admire How memory hails the sound of Shakspeare's lyre; One tear I'll shed to form a crystal shrine For all that's grand, immortal, or divine." The church in which Shakspeare's remains are preserved is delightfully situated on the banks of the Avon, and is approached by a fine avenue of lime-trees. In the chancel is a bust of the poet, in front of which he and his wife are buried. There is a fine statue of Shakspeare in the Town-hall in High Street. There are also, in the same hall, excellent portraits of Shakspeare, Garrick, and the Duke of Dorset. About one mile from the town is the cottage of Anne Hathaway: it is a most interesting specimen of an English farm-house of the 16th century. Here it is believed Anne Hathaway was born, whom Shakspeare married in 1582, when he was only eighteen years of age. Birmingham is 113 miles from London by the Northwestern Railway. Population about 352,000. Principal hotels, Northwestern andHen and Chickens. Birmingham is exclusively a manufacturing and commercial city, situated midway between Liverpool and London, and is the great seat of the hardware manufacture, which consists of every description of steel or iron goods, from the largest kind of fire-arms to the smallest metallic articles required for use or ornament. The general appearance of Birmingham is any thing but prepossessing, most of the town being occupied by the artisan population, and there are but few public buildings. The principal are the Town-hall, a splendid Corinthian edifice, and the Gothic Grammar-school. Some of the banks and the theatre are deserving of notice. WUolverhampton, the next town of importance on our route, contains 68,00 inhabitants. 'his is one of the oldest towns in the county of Stafford, a monastery having been founded here as early as A.D. 659, by Wulfhere, the first Christian king of Mercia. Hotels, Star and Garter and Swan. This town is an important trading emporium, and presents a decidedly manufacturing aspect; besides being the centre of the lock trade, tin and iron goods, papiermach6 and japanned articles are manufactured, and there are also extensive chemical and galvanizing works. The Church of St. Peter, near the market-place, is the principal building of interest. It was begun during the reign of Edward III., but parts —the tower and consistory-were not completed until the end of the 15th century. Notice within the church the west window, dedicated to the memory of the late Duke of Wellington; also a stone pulpit, richly sculptured with a grotesque animal at the foot of the staircase, dating from 1480. The Exchange, Library, Theatre, St. George's Hall, Agricultural Hall, and Market-hall are among the principal public buildings. An equestrian statue of Prince Albert, by Thornycroft, occupies the centre of the market-place, where a Russian cannon formerly stood. The inauguration was personally attended by Queen Victoria in November, 1866. Shrewsbury is a highly picturesque old town, with narrow, irregular streets and ancient buildings, and is surrounded on three sides by the Severn. It is about 100 miles from Bristol, and contains a popula245 CHESTER. [ENGLAND.] MATLOCK. tion of 22,163. Hotels, Lion and George. Among the principal buildings are the Town-hall, the Market-house, the County Hall, the Church of the Holy Cross, and the Grammar-school, founded by Edward VI. There is a delightful promenade along the banks of the Severn called St. Chad's Walk, or the Quarry. The river is crossed by two fine bridges. Four miles from Shrewsbury, at Battle-field Church, is the spot where the famous battle took place between Hotspur and Henry IV. in 1403. The ruins of Haughmond Abbey, founded in 1100, should also be visited. The traveler will be well repaid by stopping a day at the ancient cathedral city of Chester. The Grosvenor Hotel, a beautiful house, finely situated in the centre of the city, is one of the best hotels in England. There are splendid stables, with good horses, belonging to the house. Chester is beautifully situated on an elevated bank of the River Dee. It is supposed to have been founded by the Romans. It is completely surrounded by a wall of two miles in circuit, at present used as a promenade, from which a delightful view may be obtained. Many. remains of Roman antiquities have been dug up in the vicinity of Chester. Several Roman crypts have also been discovered under the houses of Chester. One of these is situated under the establishment of Roberts & Co., Watergate Street, wine. merchants, and used by them as a wine-cellar. The date of the crypt is about 1180. Another may be seen under the house of Syrton & Groome. The great novelty of the town of Chester is its angular-looking houses, with sidewalks for footpassengers on their roofs; these are covered with galleries, for the purpose of protecting the promenader from the rain. At the cross-streets, however, you have to descend and ascend each time. The carriage-way of the principal streets is sunk several feet below the original level. The Cathedral is a venerable structure. It was built on the site of an ancient Saxon monastery. It has been recently much restored, and well deserves a visit. The castle is the principal object of attraction. It was erected in the time of William the Conqueror: part of it is now used as an armory, barracks, and county jail. The armory contains a very large collection of modern fire-arms. 246 Eaton Hall, the residence of the Duke of Westminster, is a beautiful Gothic building, three miles from Chester, and contains some magnificent paintings. Chester is the centre of numerous important lines of railways, the principal of which are the London and Northwestern, by which you reach London in less than six hours; and the Chester and Holyhead, eighty-four miles from the latter, which is connected with Dublin by powerful steam packets. By this road you cross the Tubular Bridge over the Menai Straits. Birkenhead, 15j miles distant from Chester, has become within the last twenty years an important and flourishing seaport town. Its population, which in 1831 amounted to but 2599, had increased in 1861 to 51,649. Handsome and extensive docks have been constructed, capable of receiving vessels of the largest class, and the line of quays extends for about ten miles. Being essentially a modern town, Birkenhead contains few public buildings of interest; the streets are regularly laid out, with solid, well-built houses, and Hamilton Square is as fine as any in the kingdom. To the northwest of the town is Birkenhead Park, consisting of 180 acres of land, which has been entirely converted from swampy ground into most charming walks and drives at a cost of $600,000. Liverpool is reached from Birkenhead in 15 minutes. Steamers leave from Monks' Ferry on the arrival of trains; and from Woodside, stage every ten minutes. Liverpool, see Route No. 84. ROUTE No. 86. Derby to Manchester, via Ambergate, Rowsley (Chatsworth Station), Buxton, and Stockport, by rail. Time to Stockport, 1 hr. 40. min. At Ambergate Junction, reached 30 minutes after, leaving Derby, a line branches off to Matlock and Rowsley. Matlock, a watering-place of much interest, is situated on the Derwent River, ROWSLEY STATION. '[ENGLAND-] BUXTON'. which flows through Matlock dale, in which the town is built. Rocks rise in many places perpendicularly from the water to a height of three hundred feet, while at others the banks are thickly lined with trees, through which most delightful walks may be taken; indeed, the superb scenery of the neighborhood affords an additional attraction to the already much frequented mineral springs. There are numerous caverns in the vicinity, which, with the mines and petrifying wells, will repay a visit of several days. Of these caverns the Rutland is the largest, and the Devonshire is remarkable for its flat roof and perpendicular sides. In the Sidemine is a grotto where crystallizations of calcareous spar of great beauty may be seen, while in the Speedwell mine are numberless stalactites and spars. The hotels of Matlock are Old and New Bath, Temple, and Walker's. From Matlock we proceed to Rowsley Station in order to isit Chatsworth. Stop at the Peacock Inn at Rowsley, a most lovely spot, where visitors will find every comfort and accommodation. Good post - horses and carriages are supplied in order to visit Chatsworth and Haddon Hall, and to make other excursions in the neighborhood. Chatsworth, the magnificent residence of the Duke of Devonshire. This is considered the finest place belonging to any private individual in the world, and is most certainly the finest in England. William the Conqueror gave this vast domain to his natural son, William Peveril. In the reign of Elizabeth it was purchased by Sir William Cavendish. The first Duke of Devonshire commenced the present building in 1706. The park belonging to the palace comprises 2000 acres, in which, it is said, there are over 800 deer. The building is of a quadrangular form, with an open court in the middle, in the centre of which is a splendid fountain, with a statue of the god Arion seated on the back of a dolphin. The interior of the palace is adorned with every thing that untold wealth and refined taste could procure. Many of the rooms are hung with tapestry and ornamented with carvings, while all the pictures are gems of art. The entrance-hall is a grotto of magnificent marble, filled with pictures and curiosities of the rarest value. The picture-gallery and the gallery of statuary contain many gems by Titian, Canova, Thorwaldsen, and Wyatt. But the gardens and conservatory are the gems of the establishment. They were planned and laid out by Sir Joseph Paxton, of Crystal Palace notoriety, who was formerly a common gardener of the duke's, and who received for his gardening a larger salary than the President of the United States. He married a niece of the housekeeper's, and received with her a fortune of $100,000. The housekeeper's situation is one of considerable profit, as she often receives over $250 per day for showing visitors the establishment. Mary Queen of Scots was confined 13 years in the ancient tower that stands near the entrance of the palace. Haddon Iall, belonging to the Duke of Rutland, was erected in the beginning of the 14th century by one of the Vernons, the "kings of the Peak." The great hall, which is the Martindale Hall in Scott's "Peveril of the Peak," the Chapel, built in the time of Henry VI., and the Eagle Tower, are all very interesting. From Rowsley we arrive in 50 minutes at Buxton, situated in one of the most picturesque parts of Derbyshire. Buxton is said to have been famous for its baths since the time of the Romans; they are chiefly recommended for rheumatism and chronic gout, and are yearly visited by from 12,000 to 14,000 visitors. The season is fromJune to October. The principal group of buildings at Buxton is the Crescent, built by the Duke of Devonshire. It consists of three stories, the lower of which forms a colonnade. The building is chiefly occupied by St. Ann's Hotel, an assembly room, library and baths. St. Ann's Hotel is the best in Buxton, where the traveler will find every accomnmodation. Stables are attached to the hotel to enable the visitor to make the numerous excursions in the neighborhood. Near the Crescent are the large stables of the Duke of Devonshire, said to be the finest in Europe, and erected at a cost of ~120,000. Close by is the Old Hall, built by the Earl of Shrewsbury during the reign of Elizabeth, where Mary Queen of Scots was for some time kept in custody. Her apartments are still shown to visitors. Among the excursions from Buxton is that to Pool's Hole, a cavern named after a celebrated robber who once occupied it. Diamond Hill, which takes its name from 247 TAMWORTH. [ENGLAND.] ABERGELE. beautiful specimens of quartz crystal found here, is not far distant. The walk to Chee Tor should not be omitted: this is a mass of rocks three hundred feet high, overlooking the River Wye, from which a most glorious view may be obtained. Stockport, see Route No. 84. Manchester, see Route No. 84. ROUTE No. 87. London to Dublin, via Rugby, Tamwortii, Crewe, Chester, Bangor, and Holyhead, by the London and Northwestern Railway from Euston Square. Time, 16 hrs. 15 min.; fare, ~3 5s. Rugby, see Route No. 84. The town of Tamworth, which contains some 8000 inhabitants, is noted for its ancient castle, which is situated on an artificial height near the town. It was presented by William the Conqueror to Robert de Marmion, of Fontenoy, one of whose descendants Sir Walter Scott has immortalized. Sir Robert Peel represented Tamworth in Parliament for a long time, and a fine statue of him, by Noble, stands in the market-place. The church also contains a monument to his memory. Hotels, Peel Arms and White Horse. Crewe, see Route No. 84, and Chester, see Route No. 87, are passed in succession. Leaving Chester by the Holyhead Railway, and crossing the River Dee, we enter Wales, where the first station of importance is Flint. This town is about 13 miles from Chester, and contains a population of 8428. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the coal and lead mines in the neighborhood, and large quantities of coal are shipped yearly to Liverpool and Ireland. Flint Castle is situated on a rock jutting into the sea, and is now entirely in ruins; Richard II. was a prisoner here. Four miles from Flint we arrive at Holywell, which derives its name from a spring called St.Winifred's Well. This far-famed well is deserving of a visit: its architectnre is fine, and as a cold bath it is unequaled. Population of Holywell, 5335. Thirteen miles distant is Rhyl, a fashionable 248 watering-place, and one of the best bathing-places in Wales. It is situated at the entrance of the celebrated Vale of Clwyd, and from here Snowdon may be seen. Hotels, Parade and Belvoir. The ruins of Rhuddlan, built in 1015, lie just below the town, and present a magnificent appearance. Richard II. was brought here on his way to Flint Castle. The Choydian Hills rise left of Rhyl, crowned by the renowned range of British Posts. From Rhyl a branch line of railway runs to St. Asaph and Denbigh. St.Asaph is situated near the confluence of the Rivers Clwyd and Elwy. Hotel, Mostyn Arms. Population 2063. St. Asaph is generally visit. ed for its cathedral, which is very ancient, having been built as early as 596 by St. Asaph, and made entirely of wood. It was rebuilt, however, in 1770, in the form of a cross, with a square tower at the intersection of the transepts and nave. The painted windows are very fine, resembling those of Tintern Abbey. There are several interesting tombs, among others that of Bishop Barrow, uncle of the celebrated Isaac Barrow. Continuing our route from St. Asaph, we reach Denbigh, eleven miles from Rhyl, which has a population of 5946. Hotels, Bull and Crown. This town lies on the side of a rocky eminence, the summit of which is crowned by the ruins of a castle built during the reign of Edward I. This castle underwent a siege during the Parliamentary Wars, and after the restoration of Charles II. was blown up with gunpowder. The prospect from the ruins is extensive and beautiful. Returning to Rhyl, and continuing along the main line, we pass, before reaching Abergele, the spot where the battle of Rhuddlan Marsh took place in 785. Abergele, 41 miles from Rhyl, contains a population of 3308, and is much frequented during the bathing season. Hotel, Bee. The scenery in the neighborhood is magnificent. Two miles distant from the town is Cave Hill, or Cefnyr-Ogo, in which is a fine natural cavern. The entrance somewhat resembles a Gothic arch; the interior is divided into two chambers by a wall of limestone: one of these is small, the other stretches far into the mountain. Stalactites sparkle on the roof and walls, and beautifullyformed stalagmites cover the ground. Near by is the Welsh Thermopyli, the CONWAY. [ENGLAND.] BANGOR. pass of Cefn-Ogo. Here the Welsh de- Hookes, whose father had 41 children, and feated Harold, and later slaughtered the he himself was father of 27. A pleasant troops of Henry II.; and here Richard II. excursion may be made from Conway to was betrayed by Percy, Earl of Northum- the ruins of Gannock Castle. berland, into the power of Bolingbroke, Llandudno, about 3~ miles from Conway, and conveyed a prisoner to Flint Castle. has become, of late years, a great place of Not far from the pass is Gwryck Castle, sunmmer resort. It is situated on a promthe seat of B. B. Hesketh, Esq., a vast pic- ontory between the Bays of Conway and turesque building, surrounded by beautiful Llandudno, and is protected from the north grounds, which are liberally opened to vis- winds by a huge promontory called the itors. British and Roman camps are also Great Orme's Head. Population 2316. to be seen in the vicinity of Abergele. In Hotels, Adelphi, Queen's, and St. George's. August, 1868, a frightfulrailway accident The Great Orme's Head is the favorite occurred near Abergele, when 33 persons resort, the scenery from the promenade were burned to death. The charred re- which skirts the margin of the mountain mains were interred in one common grave, being very picturesque and beautiful. from seven to eight feet square, in St. Mi- Continuing along the main line from chael's Church-yard. Mrs. Hemans pass- Conway to Bangor, we pass Penmaen ed many years of her life at Abergele. Mawr,thelast ofthe Caernarvonshire range Conway is about eleven miles from Ab- of mountains, whose summit is crowned by ergele, and contains 2523 inhabitants. Ho- an extensive fortress. This mountain is tels, Castle and Erskine Arms. Just before 1540 feet in height. reaching the station the train passes over Bangor is entered through a tunnel 3000 the celebrated Tubular Bridqe, erected over feet in length. Hotel, Penrhyn Arms. the Conway by Stephenson in 1848. Population 6738. This is a cathedral Though not so stupendous a structure as town, and claims to be the oldest diocese the Britannia Bridge, yet, being the first in Wales, its cathedral having been foundof the kind ever built, it is more interest- ed by St. Deiniol in 550. This building, ing, regarded as the original inventi(n, however. was burned by Owen Gwyndwr, which is brought to perfection in the Bri- and the present edifice dates only from the tannia Bridge, which may be considered as fifteenth century. It contains the tombs the triumph of engineering skill. The of two Welsh princes. About a mile east Conway Bridge consists of two hollow of Bangor is Penrhyn Castle, the seat of rectangular tubes, placed side by side, for Lord Penrhyn, owner of the famous Penthe up and down trains, each measuring rhyn Slate Quarries. The castle, open to 400 feet, and weighing 1300 tons. The the public on Fridays, contains many cutubes are formed of wrought-iron plates, rious articles in slate, and the fence round from half an inch to an inch in thickness the park (seven miles) is entirely com(the thickest being in the centre), and are posed of that material. The quarries are sustained in their position by the strength situated five miles up the River Ogwen. of their materials and the manner in which An inclined plane leads up to the edge of they are combined. the mountain, where over two thousand The town of Conway was formerly sur- persons are engaged in splitting the slates, rounded by walls strengthened Ly twen- which are then piled in thousands, under ty-four circular towers, which are still in the name of duchesses, countesses, etc., good preservation. Conway Castle was according to the size. Seventy thousand built by Edward I. in 1284, to check the tons are shipped yearly from Port Penrevolts of the Welsh, and is now the prop- rhyn, and the receipts are about $750,000. erty of the Marquis of Hertford. The The Menai Bridge, or Telford's Suspenwalls are of great thickness, defended by sion Bridge, is about two miles from Baneight round towers. The great hall is 130 gor, and crosses the channel that separfeet in length; notice also a pretty Gothic ates Anglesea from the mainland. It was window in the King's Chamber. In this built between the years 1819 and 1826, to castle in 1339 Richard II. agreed to resign complete the coach route to Holyhead, and his crown to the Duke of Lancaster. In is used for vehicles and foot passengers St. Mary's Church is the tomb of Nicholas only, It is 550 feet in length from pier to, 249 HOLYHEAD. [ENGLAND.] WIGAN. pier, 20 feet broad, and 100 feet above the water at high tide. It is supported by 16 chains, each 1715 feet long, and the total weight of iron is 650 tons. It is the longest suspension bridge in England, but is exceeded by those at Freibourg, Bordeaux, and Pesth. This bridge presents a striking contrast to the Britannia Tubular Bridge, which is about a mile distant. This is constructed on the same principle as the bridge at Conway, but on a most stupendous scale, and is considered the greatest triumph of engineering skill in modern times; the sight of it alone is worth a visit to Wales. Here is a stupendous iron structure over 1500 feet in length, raised sufficiently high to allow ships with the loftiest masts to pass underneath. It was erected by Mr. Robert Stephenson, and cost $5,000,000; raising the Pyramids of Egypt did not require one half the genius or perseverance. It consists of a wrought-iron tube, made of plates riveted together, 1513 feet long, and wide enough for two lines of railway; it stands 104 feet above the water. Eighteen hundred men were employed for four years and a half. The tubes were first riveted together, floated out on pontoons, and then raised into their place by hydraulic presses. The whole weight is over 11,000 tons. The bridge derives its name of Britannia from a rock in the middle of the stream, without which the erection of a pier would have been impossible,owing tothe strength of the current. The bridge lengthens about a foot during the summer heat. Proceeding along the main line, we reach Holyhead, 24 miles from Bangor. Population 6193. Hotel, Royal. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, which is separated by a narrow strait from Anglesea, and derives its name from a monastery founded by St. Gybi in the sixth century. The principal buildings are the old church, which stands in the midst of a Roman camp, the assembly - rooms, baths, and light - house. The town has become of more importance of late years in consequence of its being the most convenient place of embarkation for Dublin. The distance from Holyhead to Kingstown, the harbor of Dublin, is sixty-six miles, and the Channel is crossed in four hours and thirty minutes, average time. Three steam packets leave Holyhead daily in 2X connection with the express trains. The time occupied by the Irish mail conveyance from London to Dublin is a little over twelve hours. A national Harbor of Refuge is being formed at Holyhead, which, when completed, will be one of the finest artificial harbors in the world. It is formed by a breakwater 5000 feet in length, with a pier 2000 feet extending from the opposite shore, thus inclosing 316 acres; it is three quarters of a mile long, and has a depth of six or seven fathoms at low water. ROUTE No. 88. Liverpool to Carlisle, via Preston, Lancaster, Kendal, and Penrith, by the London and Northwestern Railway in 6 hrs. 15 min. The first station of importance passed on our route is Wigan, where a branch line leads off to Manchester. This town is situated on both sides of the River Douglas, and, although of very ancient date,contains little of interest besides its churches, three in number, one of which (Parish Church) possesses a tower and chapel dating from Henry VIII., and an ancient cross called Mab's Cross, of which the following story is given in the genealogidal history of Haigh: " Sir William Bradshaghe, 2d son to Sir John, was a great traveller and a sonldger, and married to Mabel, daughter and sole heire of Hugh Norris de Haghe and Blackrode. "Of this Mabel is a story by tradition of undoubted verity, that in Sir William Bradshaghe's absence (being 10 yeares away in the wares) she married a Welch knight. Sir William retorninge from the wares, came in a Palmer's habit amongst the poore to Haghe,who when she saw and congetringe that he favoured her former husband, wept, for which the kt. chasticed her, at wich Sir William went and made himselfe knowne to his tenantesi PRESTON. S [ENGLAND.] PENRITH. in wich space the kt. fled. But neare to Newton Parke Sir William overtooke him and slue him. The saide Dame Mabell was enjoyned by her confessor to doe penances by going onest every week barefout and barelegged to a crosse ner Wigan from the Haghe wilest she lived, and is called 1Mabb to this day." llaigh tHall, the ancient seat of the Bradshaws, lies 21 miles north of Wigan, and is now possessed by the Earl of Crawford and Balcarres. A window once existed here on which the whole of the legend given above was painted, and which is mentioned by Sir Walter Scott in his introduction to '''The Betrothed." Here is one of the finest private libraries in England, contailing many rare works and numbering 50,000 volumes. Among other objects of interest in the vicinity of Wigan is ': The Meadows," an ancient house dating from the reign of Elizabeth, and the Alianor Hlouse, where Prince Charles Edward was concealed for two days in 1745. Preston, 25 minutes from Wigan, is most beautifully situated on the summit of a ridge running parallel with the banks of the Ribble, and commands a view of a large expanse of country. Its commanding situation, as well as the important part always taken by the town in the county annals, has given it the high-sounding title of " Proud Preston," Some believe this city to be the Rhigodunum of Ptolemy; it is certainly a place of great antiquity. Under the Saxons it was called Amounderness, and a Mote Hall was constructed. Preston was formerly the capital of the Duchy of Lancaster; from the reign of Henry 1. to that of Charles II. it received no less than fifteen charters; it reached its greatest glory, however, in the 18th century, when it was the great rendezvous of society and fashion. After the introduction of spinning in 1777, by which the population has increased from 6000 to nearly 90,000, the beau monde gradually made way for the manufacturing element, and it is now one of the principal seats of cotton manufacture. There are upward of 78 mills, giving employment to nearly 26,000 persons. There are 1,652,668 spindles and 50,608 looms. The Town-hall, situated in the market-place, is a fine EarlyEnglish building, designed by Mr. G. G. Scott. The churches, four Protestant and six Cath olic, are mostly of modern construction. Preston possesses three very fine parks, the approach to the largest of which is through an avenue of lime-trees 170 years old. Hotels, Victoia and Bull. Lancaster, 231 miles from London, is chiefly noted for its castle, once a magnificent structure. The town is beautifully situated on the south bank of the River Lune, near its mouth. It is of very ancient origin, having once been a Roman station. William the Conqueror gave it to Roger de Poictou. John of Gaunt built its castle. The first Earl of Lancaster was created in 1266. John of Gaunt, fourth son of Edward III., having married Blanche, the Duke of Lancaster's daughter, succeeded to the title. His son, Henry of Bolingbroke, Earl of Derby and Duke of Hereford, after his father's death, became Duke of Lancaster, and finally king in 1399, since which time this duchy has been associated with royal dignity. The town received its first charter from King John, and is noted for the manner in which it espoused the cause of the Royalists during the Parliamentary War; also for its participancy in the "War of the Roses" between York and Lancaster. The castle stands on the summit of a hill, and is now used as a county jail. Principal hotels are King's Arms and Royal Oak. Population 20,000. This city now gives the title of duke to the Prince of Wales. Passing Oxenholine, the junction for Kendal and Winderlnere, we reach Penrith, about 52 miles distant from Lancaster. Population 7189. Hotels, New Crown and George. The ruins of the castle, which overlook this town, are exceedingly romantic. This was for a long time the residence of Richard III. In the burying-ground of St. Andrew's Church there is a curious monument called the Giant's Grave. It consists of two stone pillars eleven feet high, standing one at each end of a grave fifteen feet in length. Between them are four stones covered with unintelligible carvings. Another stone, called the Giant's Thumb, stands close by. Nearly two miles from Penrith are the ruins of Brougham Castle, supposed to have been formerly the site of a Roman station, coins and other antiquities having been discovered here. Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham, and a fine, pic-.251 CARLISLE. [ENGLAND.] KENDAL. turesque building, is but a short distance from the castle. About a mile and a half from Penrith is King Arthur's Round Table, a circular area more than twenty yards in diameter.: 'He pass'd red Penrith's Table Round, For feats of chivalry renowned; Left Mayborough's mound and stones of power, By Druids raised in magic hour, And traced the Eamont's winding way, Till Ulfo's lake behind him lay." Bridal of Triermain. Visit also "Long Meg and her Daughters." They are about six miles from Penrith, and are considered some of the finest relics of antiquity. They form a circle of sixty-seven stones, many of them ten feet in height. Long Meg, a square column of red freestone, is eighteen feet high and fifteen feet in circumference. The whole circle is 350 yards in circumference. The neighborhood of Penrith is noted for the numerous country-seats of England's nobility and gentry. For excursions from Penrith, see Route No. 89. Sixty-nine miles from Lancaster is the ancient town of Carlisle, which contains 28,000 inhabitants. The principal hotel is the Station. It is a place of considerable manufacturing importance; contains an ancient castle, partly in ruins, the erection of which is attributed to William Rufus. This city was taken by King David, and was afterward besieged by Robert Bruce. It nobly held out for Charles I., and suffered much in consequence. The principal objects of interest are the remains of the old castle, the cathedral-parts of which are Saxon-and the court-house. Hotels, County and Royal. From Carlisle the traveler may continue on to Dumfries, fifty minutes by rail from the former city. This town, in addition to the monument erected over the grave of Burns in St. Michael's Church, contains the house where he died, and where his widow resided over thirty years. From here you can visit Caerlaveroch Castle, Drumlanrig Castle-the residence of the Duke of Buccleuch-Includen House, and New Abbey. 282 ROUTE No. 89. The English Lake District. Leaving Lancaster by the Lancaster and Carlisle Railway, and passing through Carnforth and Mlilnthorpe Stations, we reach Oxenholme Junction, nineteen miles from Lancaster, where a branch line turns off to Kendal and Windermere. Kendal is but one mile and a half distant from the junction. Hotels, King's Armes and Commercial. Population 12,000. This is chiefly a manufacturing town, carpets, linseys, blankets, combs, cards, etc., being the principal articles produced. The church and castle are the principal objects of interest. The former is a large, nearly square building, of a mixed architectural character; in one of the aisles, which are of great breadth, notice a helmet which belonged to the famous Major Philipson (Robin the Devil) of Belle Isle, who rode armed into this church during divine service to capture the person of Colonel Briggs, of Cromwell's army. The Philipsons were a family of note, who in the time of the Parliamentary Wars took the side of the king. Major Philipson, while at his brother's house on Belle Isle, was besieged there during eight months by Colonel Briggs, but held out with great gallantry until his brother was able to march to his relief and raise the siege. He then in his turn made a daring attempt on the life of Colonel Briggs, which was frustrated, however, by that officer's absence from the church. Sir Walter Scott makes a similar incident occur in " Rokeby:" "The outmost crowd have heard a sound, Like horse's hoof on hardened ground; Nearer it came, and yet more nearThe very death's-men paused to hear. 'Tis in the church-yard now-the tread Hath waked the dwelling of the dead I Fresh sod, and old sepulchral stone, Return the tramp in varied tone. All eyes upon the gateway hung, W'hen through the Gothic arch there sprung A horseman armed, at headlong speedSable his cloak, his plume, his steed. Fire from the flinty floor was spurned, The vaults unwonted clang returned. One instant's glance around he threw, From saddlebow his pistol drew; Grimly determined was his look, His charger with his spurs he struckAll scattered backward as he came, For all knew Bertram Rlisingham. Three bounds that noble courser gave: The first has reached the central nave; I Leano Tons ing ay I Ca7 - Her lk- ih 1 s t~ --- —-ll'~f~ st oyll OIJ 771 cklim~ evvC -ur t aw tck cu~trc offa O 'F~ ----I=~-~s — l~o~cJ~s arf~il. ~ BtlJ` 3edb'Ve 7~L7UIbm, ~e~-C~1~tn'~,~~lq 'lornkev-by/~ D a~c 'N vv Galto-way-.iugaai Zarne,~~c~l~~~ ' o;-__ ----------. __tone k trnr~~~~2or17 * i=Zr~anu Tudb mtiZ G D uPenrit Wit6' ~a8 BELF ----_l-f~C17t3 ~ ~ C 3 Ke s Appleby~o RRL lrck I = til Ikudb rl'llt ff ton, ~ BZ toHa w_ v_-=____ P tan castep -- ----- -Ski;ryi ~ P3E IL 6L xlo tj6 r& rentnt ton Itoms~ kJ)ZL ucn — ~'~ Ro HESTE r____y_________~__~__~_il-ar I~f —~ --- —-a -rono KENDAL. [ENGLAND.] BowNESs. The second clear'd the chancel wide; The third he was at Wycliffe's side. While yet the smoke the deed conceals, Bertram his ready charger wheelsBut floundered on the pavement floor The steed, and down the rider boreAnd, bursting in the headlong sway, Tile faithless saddle-girths gave way. ]'Twas while he toil'd him to be freed, And with the rein to raise his steed, That from amazement's iron tranceAll Wycliffe's soldiers waked at once." The ruins of the castle, which consist of four dismantled towers with portions of the surrounding walls, stand about one quarter of a mile from the town. The date of the castle's construction is assigned to the 12th or 13th centuries, but little is known of its history; it is surrounded by a moat cut out of the limestone, on the northern side of which are the remains of an ancient outwork. Of the whole, the round tower is in the best state of preservation, and was evidently the strongest part of the building. This castle was the birthplace of Catharine Parr. The Barony of Kendal was at one time the property of Ivo de Taillebois, who came to England with William the Conqueror, and who by marriage with Lucy, sister of the Saxon Earls Edwin and Morcar, obtained possession of these lands. In 1334, however, the barony became extinct from the failure of male heirs, and, after having been conferred by successive monarchs either on their relatives or favorites, the title has lain dormant since the death of Madame Von Schulemberg, who was created Duchess of Kendal by George II. The last descendant of the Taillebois', the once proud possessors of these lands, died in 1863, a pauper in the Shrewsbury workhouse. The line of the fosse of a Roman station, once existing at Kendal, may still be tracedabout a mile below the town; many altars, inscriptions, and other Roman antiquities, have been found near it and placed in the town museum. Opposite the castle, on the other tide of the River Trent, is a circular eminence, believed to be a Saxon place for the administration of justice; it is surrounded by a moat, and is called Castlebrow Hill. On the summit is an obelisk, erected in commemoration of the Revolution of 1688. In the neighborhood of Kendal is Sizergh Hall, an ancient stronghold, with an old tower sixty feet high, still entire; in the cor ners are closets for watchmen, with oblique apertures in the walls. The principal bedroom in this mansion is called the Queen's Room, from having been occupied by Catharine Parr after the death of Lord Burgh, and before her marriage with Lord Latimer. The room is hung with Gobelin tapestry, and contains a magnificent counterpane and toilet-cover, the work of the queen. The grounds of Levens Hall, an ancient seat of the Howards, five miles south of Kendal, were laid out by Beaumont, the same who designed the Hampton Court gardens; here are some yews two hundred years old. Within the house are portraits of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, while in the dining-room the decorations and carvings, said to have been made at a cost of $15,000, will well repay inspection. There are trains from Kendal to Windermere eight times a day; time, 20 minutes. The town of Windermere itself is a mere railway station, and travelers had better proceed at once to Bowness. This town is situated on the Windermere, the queen of all the Cumberland lakes; omnibuses await the arrival of each train. Principal hotel is Scotts Old England Hotel, on Bowness Bay, a fine house, well-managed by Mr. Richards. The church of Bowness is an ancient building, dedicated to St. Martin, and containing some objects of interest, among others a stained-glass window, believed to have belonged to Furness Abbey. It is divided into three compartments, two representing the Crucifixion, and the third St. George and the Dragon, with the arms of France and England above. Underneath is a group of monks, whose names are written on scrolls. From Bowness a coach runs daily from Ferry Inn, on the opposite side of the lake, reached by ferry-boat in one quarter of an hour, to Coniston, distance ten miles, whence the rail may be taken to visit Furness Abbey (see Route No. 90); also a coach to Patterdale for Ullswater, ten miles; steamers every two hours to Waterhead for Ambleside and to Lakeside, at the foot of the lake. The lake is about ten miles in length, and its greatest breadth two miles. The scenery, though it has less 253 WINDERMERE LAKE. [ENGLAND.] AMtBLESIDEo 'wildness and grandeur than some of the other lakes, is very lovely. The margin is thickly wooded; cottages and villas peep from beneath the trees, giving an air of domestic beauty to the scene. The surface of the lake is studded with numerous islands, the largest of which, Belle Isle, or Curwen's Island, lies nearly opposite Bowness. It consists of about thirty acres, in the centre of which the mansion is situated; the grounds alone are open to visitors. This island, as already mentioned in relation to the church at Kendal, was a royal stronghold during the Parliamentary Wars, belonging to the Philipson family. Steamers leaving Bowness for Lakeside first touch at the ferry, at a short distance from which is a summer-house, belonging to the owner of Belle Isle, called the Station, the windows of which are filled with different colored glasses, producing a most curious effect. StorrsHall, a fine mansion situated on a promontory to the left, is the property of the Rev. T. Stamforth. This building was erected by Sir John Legard, andduring the proprietorship of Mr. Bolton, in 1825, was visited by Canning, Scott, Southey, Wordsworth, and Professor Wilson (Christopher North). A brilliant regatta then took place, over which the Professor presided, with the title (given by Mr. Canning) of " Admiral of the Lake." Mr. Bolton made here a fine collection of paintings, which can not, however, be visited during the residence of the owner. At Newby Bridge, reached after passing the islands of Ling Holm, Silver Holm, and Blake Holm, the River Leven enters the lake. Lakeside is reached one mile farther on. In proceeding up the lake from Bowness to Waterhead the tourist enjoys much finer scenery. Calgarth, formerly the residence of Dr. Watson, author of the " Apology for the Bible," is passed before the steamer stops at Low Wood to take up passengers from the hotel at that place. Wray Castle, built to resemble a feudal fortress of the Middle Ages, with the exception of moat and rampart, is next passed. We then see to the right Dove's Nest, the residence for one summer of Mrs. Hemans, and of which she gives the following description in one of her letters: The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into 254 the hands of farmers, and there is in consequence an air of neglect about the little demesne which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see every where traces of love and care beginning to be effacedrose-trees spreading into wildness-laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches; and I can not help saying to myself, 'Perhaps some heart like my own in its feelings and sufferings has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style; which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grassy terrace immediately under the window, descending to a small court, with a circular grass-plot, on which grows one tall white-rose tree. You can not imagine how much I delight in that fair, solitary, neglected-looking tree. I am writing to you from an old-fashioned alcove in the little garden, around which the sweetbrier and the rose-tree have completely run wild; and I look down from it upon lovely Winandermere, which seems at this moment even like another sky, so truly is every summer cloud and tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror. " I am so delighted with the spot that I scarcely know how I shall leave it. The situation is one of the deepest retirement; but the bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks and sails, glancing like 'things of life' over its blue water, prevents the solitude from being overshadowed by any thing like sadness." Waterhead is the port of Ambleside, to which town the distance is one mile and a quarter; and omnibuses are in waiting at the landing to convey tourists either there or to Grasmere. Ambleside. The principal hotel here is the Salutation, admirably conducted by its proprietor, Mr. Taylor, who has every requirement the traveler can wish for. This first-class house has been established upwards of two centuries, and has recently been much enlarged. The mountain scenery of Ambleside is very fine. Wansfell, rendered famous by Wordsworth, rises behind the town, and should be ascended by those desirous of gaining a fine view of this most beautiful country. A visit should RYDAL MOUNT. [ENGLAND.] THE WISHING-GATE. also be made to the fine waterfall Stock Wordsworths. Easdale, one mile front Ghyll Force,which, from the spot where the Grasmere, may be visited on account of water first commences to fall to the bottom, Easdale Force, a fine cascade which falls measures 160 feet; it is broken, however, over a steep ledge of rocks above Easdale, at intervals into small falls, the largest of and which is formed by a stream issuing which is about thirty feet in height. Ponies from Easdale Tarn. or donkeys may be hired in the town for this On the old road between Ambleside and excursion. There are numerous beautiful Grasmere the famous Wishing-Gate, which walks in the neighborhood of Ambleside, forms the subject of one of Wordsworth's of which perhaps the most interesting is to lyrics, is passed. The name has been given Rydal Mount and Rydal Hall. The latter it from the belief which has existed since is visited on account of two fine waterfalls most ancient times that all wishes formed situated in the grounds, to which access is here have a happy issue: obtained by application to the gardener, ope rules a land forever green; who lives opposite the entrance to the hall. All powers that serve the bright-eyed queen A small stream runs through a thickly Are confident and gay; wooded valley above the hall, and forms a Clouds at her bidding disappear; e n a e, ', a Points she to aught?-the bliss draws near, succession of cascades, and two fine falls, And fancy,mooths the way. called the upper and lower; the latter is perhaps the most admired, and is seen from " Not such the land of Wishes-there a summer-house situated in the grounds. Dwell fiitless day-dreams, lawless prayer, And tbhoaghts with things at strife; Rydal Mount, the residence for thirty Yet how forlorn-sliould ye depart, years of the poet Wordsworth, is entered Ye superstitions of the heartby a gate on the left, a little above the en- How poor were human life I trance to the hall. The house is very sim- When magic lore abjured its might, pie, but the view it commands over the Ye did not forfeit one dear right, Rothay Valley and Windermere is most One tender claim abate; l. ro are m oi Witness this symbol of your sway, beautiful. In the grounds are many hollies Survivng near the public wayplanted by the poet, who died here April The rustic Wishing-Gate 23, 1850, at the advanced age of eighty. * * From a summer-house in the grounds a fine " Smile if thou wilt, but not in scorn, view may be obtained of Rvdal Water, If some, by ceaseless pains ottworn, liere crave am easier lot; one of the loveliest lakes in this district, If some have thirsted to renew although not more than a mile around. It A broken vow, or bind a true is reached in a few moments from Rvdal With finner, holier knot. Hall, and may be passed en route for Gras- And not in vain, when thoughts are cast mere, a lovely spot four miles distant from Upon the irrevocable past, Ambleside. Hotels, Prince of Wales and Some penitent sincere ke (Town-End). Grasmere Lake, with May for a worthier future sigh, Lake (Town-End). Grasmere Lake, with While trickles from his downcast eye its solitary island, is situated in a hollow, No unavailing tear. around which high and wooded mountainsling, piing to e freed 'L The wolldling, pining to be fi'eed raise their heads-it is one mile in length, From turmoil, who would turn or speed and three quarters in width. At Town-End The current of his fate, is the house inhabited by Wordsworth from MgLht stop before this favored scene 1799 to 1808, then called the Dove and 01- At Nature's call, nor blush to lean 1799 to 1808, then called the Dov e and Ol- Upon the Wfishing-Gate." ive-bough, and referred to in the "Wagoner;" it was later the abode of De Quin- An excursion may be made from Amble. cey. The church of Grasmere should be side to the Langdale Pikes, occupying five visited by those desirous of seeing the or six hours (18 miles). Leaving Amblelast resting-place of Wordsworth, who lies side by car, the road passes through Clapburied in the church-yard. The spot is persgate, and turning to the right follows marked by a plain blue slate flag, with the the course of the Brathay River until Skelnames " William Wordsworth" and "Mary with Force, a fine waterfall twenty feet in Wordsworth," his widow, upon it. The height, is reached. The valleys of Great tomb of Hartley Coleridge, son of S. T. and Little Langdale are separatedby LinsrColeridge, lies just back of those of the moor Fell. They diverge from the village 255 BLEA TARN. [ENGLAND.] CONISTON. of Elterwater, the road to the right being the one to Great Langdale. Elterwater Lake, near which some powder-mills afford a most picturesque appearance, is passed; and Millbeck,where a short detour may be made to visit Dungeon Ghyll Force. This is a fall formed by a stream which rushes violently through a dark mountain fissure, over which a curious natural bridge has been made by a falling rock wedged between the sides of the mountains, over which none but people of strong nerves should attempt to pass. The gorge from which this stream flows separates the Langdale Pikes. The higher of these, but the most easy of ascent, is called Harrison Stickle, and the lower Pike o' Stickle. The views commanded from the summit of these two mountains are most beautiful. Blea Tarn is reached by a steep road frofn Langdale; it would be as well to make a separate excursion here from Ambleside, as the great beauty of the place is seen on the approach from that side, while the finest view of the Langdale Pikes is also obtained in the route described above. Troutbeck should also be visited from Ambleside by way of Low Wood. This is a small and straggling village, picturesquely situated, in which some of the houses are built with high-walled court-yards, necessary in olden times as means of defense. The great Roman road, High Street,which ran along the tops of the heights to the right, may still be easily traced, and the ascent of the elevation should be made by all those interested in remains which mark the site of the Roman occupation. The route from Troutbeck to Low Wood is thus described by Professor Wilson: "There is not such another splendid prospect in all England as the view of Windermere from the road leading from Troutbeck to Low Wood. The lake has much the character of a river without losing its own. The islands are seen almost all lying together in a cluster; below which all is loveliness and beauty; above,all majesty and grandeur. Bold or gentle promontories break all the banks into frequent bays, seldom without a cottage or cottages embowered in trees; and while the whole landscape is of a sylvan kind, parts of it are so laden with woods that you see only here and there a wreath of smoke, but no 2-6 houses, and could almost believe that you are gazing on the primeval forests." Coniston may be reached by coach either from Bowness or Ambleside. A coach leaves the Ferry Inn opposite Bowness daily for Coniston; distance, 10 miles. The views along this route are of unsurpassed beauty, taking in the upper end of Windermere, and the mountain of Helvellyn and the Langdale Pikes. Coniston. Hotels, Waterhead and Lake Bank. Coniston Lake is six miles in length and three quarters of a mile in width, and lies about five miles west of Windermere. The tour of the lake is made by a steam-gondola two or three times a day; an excursion to the southern end and back requiring about an hour and a half. After 6 P.M. this gondola may be engaged for private excursions at a cost of fifteen shillings. The scenery along the banks is every where beautiful, but that of the northern part is perhaps the most imposing. Coniston Old Man is well seen from the water; this mountain rises to a height of 2632 feet, and derives its name from a pile of stones on the summit-the word "man" being the provincial name for all such accumulations of stones on the tops of hills. The ascent of the mountain from Coniston will occupy two hours-the charge for a pony being about five shillings. The views throughout the ascent are most beautiful; to the south the estuaries of the Leven, Kent, and Duddon may be seen, and in clear weather the sea-view embraces the Isle of Man. Snowdon is also sometimes perceptible from the summit. The mountain is chiefly composed of fine roofing-slate, and there are several large quarries for its excavation, besides some valuable copper mines. The slates are carried down the lake in boats, and then conveyed by carts to Ulverston. There are three tarns upon the Old Man, viz., Levens Water, the largest and most beautiful in form and position, one mile in circumference; Gates Water, passed by those making the ascent from Torver-this tarn possesses a very wild character, being overhung on three sides by lofty precipices, and on the fourth with banks covered with an accumulation of fallen rocks; Low Water, notwithstanding its name, is the highest of the tarns: the Old Man is erected on a preoipice overhanging its depths. THIRLMERE. [ENGLAND.] DERWENTWATER. A coach leaves Bowness every morning Derwentwater is about 400 yards from for Keswick, returning the same day,passing Keswick. Here boats may be hired for through Ambleside, Grasmere, and Thirl- excursions on the lake,which is about three mere; the drive is beautiful. miles in length and one in width: it is Thirlmere is a small village, situated at best seen by driving around it; distance, a short distance from a lake of the same 10 miles. There are three islands, viz., name, which is three miles in length, but Derwent Island, St. Herbert's Island, and scarcely more than a quarter of a mile in Lord's Island. The first is the nearest to width at its widest point. The beauties Keswick, and is about six acres in extent: of this piece of water are better seen from it was formerly a dependency of Fountains the opposite side to that taken by the high- Abbey, but now belongs to H. Marshall, road. Esq.,who allows the grounds to be visited Keswick is situated at the bottom of in the absence of the family. St. Herbert's Derwentwater Lake, almost directly under Island is believed to have been the resiSkiddaw. Hotels, Keswick and Royal Oak. dence of St. Herbert, the remains of whose This town is chiefly noted for its manufact- hermitage, consisting of an oratory and a ure of lead-pencils, the number produced cell, are still to be seen. According to weekly being about 250,000, or 13,000,000 Bede, the hermit left this cell but once a a year. Keswick was for many years the year to visit St. Cuthbert, until his death, residence of Robert Southey, LL.D., Poet A.D. 687. Pilgrimages were made and religLaureate. Greta Hall, beautifully situ- ious services were celebrated on the island ated on the Greta River, about half a mile until the end of the 14th century. Lord's from the town, was the poet's place of abode, Island derives its name from having been where he remained until his death in 1842, the former residence of the Earls of Derand where Coleridge resided with him for wentwater; it is believed to have first been nearly four years. Southey is buried in a peninsula, which, after the erection of the parish church-yard of Crosthwaite; with- the earl's mansion, was separated from the in the church is a recumbent figure of the mainland by a deep fosse, which was spanpoet by Lough, said to be a very good like- ned by a drawbridge. The island is now ness. The following epitaph was composed completely deserted. by Wordsworth: In driving around the lake, Barrow House, " Ye vales and lills, whose beauty hither drew in the grounds of which is the Barrow Fall, The poet's steps, and fixed himi here, on you is first passed. This is a fine cascade 120 His eyes have closed! And ye, loved books, no feet in height. The fall is reached through more the garden of Lodore Inn, one mile from Shall SuThey feed upon your precious loremile from To works that ne'er shall forfeit their renown, Barrow House; the descent of water is Adding immortal labors of his own- through a chasm formed by Shepherd's Whether lie traced historic truth, with zeal and Gonder crags, the sides of which are For the State's guidance or the Church's weal,thickl w ooded. Southey gives the Or fancy, disciplined by studious art, Informed his pen, or wisdom of the heart, lowing humorous and graphic description Or judgments sanctioned in the patriot's mind, of the fall: By reverence for the rights of all mankind, Wide were hi- aims; yet in no human breast Could private feelings find a holier nest. "I-ow does the water come down at Lodore? His joys, his gifts, have vanished like a cloud Here it comes sparkling, From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was And there it lies darkling; vowed Now smoking and frothing, Through a life long and pure; and Christian In tumult aind wrath in. faith It hastens along, conflictingly strong; Calmed in his soul the fear of change and Now striking and raging, as if a war waging, death." Its caverns and rocks among. Rising and leaping, Friar's Crag, a promontory on the east- Sinking and creeping, ern shore of Lake Derwentwater, was the Swelling and flinging, point generally reached by the poet in his EddyiSlg and whisking, daily walk; and I'Walla Crag, about two Sporting and frisking, miles from Keswick, an elevation whence Turning and twisting a fine view may be obtained, was always a Around and around; Collecting, disjecting station to which he took his guests. With endless rebound; VOL,. I.-M 257 BAS8ERTHWAITE LAKE. [ENGLAND.] EDEN HALL. Smiting and fightingA sight to delight in; Confounding, astounding, Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound. And so never ending, but always descending, Sounds and motions forever are blending. All at once and all o'er, with a mighty uproarAnd in this way the water comes down at Lodore." Continuing round the lake, Borrowdale Hotel is passed one-half mile from Lodore. Borrowdale Valley, through which the Derwent River, sometimes called Borrowdale Beck, takes its course, is one of the most beautiful valleys in the Lake district. Grange, situated in the valley, is so named from having been the spot where the monks of Furness stored their corn. Castle Crag rises in the centre of the gorge, and is believed to have been the site of a fortress built by the Romans to command the Borrowdale Pass. Although this stronghold is said to have been garrisoned by the monks of Furness as late as the 16th century, no traces of it now remain, but the ascent of the eminence may be made for the fine view it commands of the valley. The Boulder or Bowder Stone lies nearly opposite the crag; it was transported here in an early geological period by a glacier, and measures 62 feet in length by 36 in height; the weight is about two thousand tons. Bassenthwaite Lake, four miles in length, and in its widest parts one in breadth, lies about three miles northeast of Keswick. Its banks are richly wooded, and although perhaps not possessing the variety of scenery to be seen at Derwentwater, its beauties will well repay a visit. In leaving Keswick the tourist may go by rail either to Cockermouth or Penrith, for which places trains leave five times daily; to Cockermouth 13 miles, to Penrith 18 miles. Coaches also run three times a day to Windermere Station through Ambleside and Grasmere. The tour of Lake Ullswater had better be made from Penrith (see Route No. 88), or the rail may be taken from Keswick to Troutbeck Station, and thence by rail to Patterdale. If going by the former route, take the coach which leaves Penrith Station every morning at 9 A.M., arriving at Pooley Bridge Landing in one hour. Here you embark on a small steam-yacht, which makes the tour of the lake in two hours, 258 enabling a return to Penrith Station by one o'clock. About a mile and a half from Penrith, on the road to Pooley Bridge, King Arthur's Round Table and Moayborough are passed. The former is a circular plateau surrounded by a moat, to which there are two approaches. The object for which it was constructed is unknown, as the moat would negative its use as a tilting-ground,while it is too small for tournaments; it may possibly have been designed for exhibitions of the holmegang, or duel of the girdle, in which the combatants were fastened together by a girdle around the waist, and then allowed to give their knives full play. Mlayborough lies near the Round Table, but on the opposite side of the road. It consists of a circular inclosure, formed by a wall of rounded stones, 16 feet in height; the inclosed space is about 100 yards in diameter, in the centre of which stands a large stone, and the whole is now encircled by trees. This is believed to have served either as a Druidical temple or as a court of justice. Eden Hall, four miles from Penrith, is a fine mansion, built in 1824, and containing some good pictures. Here is an old enameled drinking-glass, preserved with great care, which, according to tradition, was seized by the butler one day at St. Cuthbert's Well in the park, where he surprised a party of dancing fairies. He easily obtained possession of the glass, which lay on the brink of the well; and after a vain effort to recover it, the fairies flew away singing"If that glass either break or fall, Farewell the Luck of Eden lu:ll." The glass is a beautiful specimen of Oriental workmanship, and is kept in a case dating from the time of Henry V. Longfellow's translation of a German ballad, called " The Luck of Eden Hall," will be remembered by most of our readers. Within the park is an old church, with a tower dating from 1450; there are some interesting monuments in the chancel of all the Musgrave baronets, beginning with the second baronet, Sir Philip. From Eden Hall the road to Kirkoswald passes through Long Meg and her Daughters (Route No. 88). The castle of Kirkoswald, the ancient residence of the Lords of Melton, from whom it descended to the Dacres and the Earl of Essex, is now a crumbling rnin, with little re, I, -j '.. 7 i TH E ENOLSH LAKES C U a to ec k 5e0 F l Jvr-.Xz hon, V — -F 1 la hat BT0i Irfq \.d'ow I wa' "wk- -. T I L4 n6vat 1 -,-\ 1, 0 A. /-Y K In le O'ood&1tu )rnthbAaitt &PMade6a: arzB 17ewtvid lar~ - R P& -I' k~Iajlul iS iead v tePRIj() ',a,'thbe Theme-tt X/. S, owerkq ly I I opelaiid& - (1'F o -.,s - /I uitteomere I GraFsll Io7 ri//'2 44/ I C o'I, t I i I a~ertmiw \ "OW -1 I art F I 21 Hiarper's Hag&-BOOk. LOWTHER CASTLE. [ENGLAND.] ULVERSTON. maining but the square Norman tower. It was once an extensive fortress, protected on three sides by a moat, whose borders are still well defined. Sir Hugh de Morville, one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket, resided here, and the sword with which he stabbed the bishop was preserved for many years in the castle. Two miles from Kirkoswald is the Nunnery founded by William Rufus for Benedictine nuns; little now remains of the ancient edifice. Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, is a magnificent building, five miles from Penrith, which is open to the public every day but Sunday. It is approached from the north by an arched gateway, and is 420 feet in length on the northern front; the building is constructed of a rose-tinted freestone in the modern Gothic style, and has no less than forty turrets. From the terrace walk. 400 feet in length and 90 in breadth, the views over the Lowther, on the right bank of which the castle is situated, are unsurpassed. In addition to the beauties of nature, the art collection is very fine, there being paintings by Van Dyck, Rubens, Teniers, Wouverman, Gerhard Dow, Salvator Rosa, Poussin, Guido Reni, Cuyp, Titian, Murillo, Rembrandt, Leonardo da Vinci, and Paul Veronese. Haweswater, the least visited of all the lakes, is the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, and lies two miles from Lowther and nine from Penrith. A boat is kept for those desirous of making an excursion on the lake, for the use of which application should be made to the steward at Lowther Castle. The lake is 22 miles long and half a mile wide. Pooley Bridge is a small village on the Ullswater, about one mile from the place of embarkation for the steamer, to which a coach takes all passengers. Boats may also be obtained here for short excursions on the lake. Hotels, Sun and Crown. The Eamont enters the lake near Pooley, and is crossed by a fine stone bridge. Ensemere, a villa which was for some time the residence of the late William Wilberforce, lies about half a mile distant, on the eastern shore of the lake. Ullswater is perhaps the grandest of the English lakes, and is by many regarded as a miniature Lucerne; it is nine miles in length, with a varying breadth, and a greater average depth than the other lakes. It is divided by mountains into three separate parts or reaches, the scenery toward Patterdale being the finest. A road runs along the western shore from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale; distance ten miles. After passing through several small villages, we reach on this road Halsteads, the seat of W. Marshall, Esq.; one mile farther Gowbarrow Park (belonging to H. Howard, Esq., of Greystoke Castle, to whom it descended after the death of his uncle, the 11th Duke of Norfolk) is entered. This park contains over a thousand acres of ground; on a slight eminence within its limits is a hunt. ing-l'ox call Lyulph's Tower, which commands a splendid view of the lake. The road next crosses a small stream, which about a mile above the bridge forms a fine cascade called Airey Force. The water here falls perpendicularly through a chasm from a height of eighty feet; it is divided at the top into two streams, which unite before they reach the bottom of the fall. Patterdale. Hotels, Ullswater and Patterdale. Here the tourist fond of climbing may pass a day in order to make the ascent of Helvellyn, for which ponies and guides may be obtained at either of the hotels. The time occupied in the ascent and descent being about three hours. The height of the mountain is about 3118 feet. Patterdale Hall is the principal seat in the neighborhood. From Patterdale the traveler may return to Pooley Bridge by steamer, or may take a coach which runs daily to Bowness and Windermere Station. ROUTE No. 90. Lancaster to Carlisle (by the western coast),via Ulverston, Whitehaven,and Maryport, by rail. Time, 5 hours. Ulverston, situated about a mile from the estuary of the Leven, contains 6630 inhabitants. It is a market-town and port, and ship-building is carried on to some extent. Hotels, Sun and Braddyll's Arms. The distnuce from Lancaster to Ulverston is 269 FURNESS ABBEY. [ENGLAND.] EGREMONT. twenty-two miles; in addition to the rail, this distance may be performed by crossing the sands of Morecambe Bay, which are twice a day left perfectly dry by the ebbing of the tide, and may be crossed in safety, though never without a guide. Comstread Priory is two miles distant from Ulverston, near the sea-shore. It is called, from the beauty of its situation, the "Paradise of Furness." Six miles and a half southwest of Ulverston are the ruins of Furness Abbey, belonging to the Duke of Devonshire. It was founded in 1127 by monks of the Cistercian order, who were invited to settle here by Stephen, Earl of Boulogne and Morton, afterward King of England. King Stephen endowed the convent not only with lands contiguous to it, but with estates in all parts of England and Ireland; he also granted extraordinary privileges,which, together with the grants of land, were ratified by twelve successive kings. Nine other abbeys were under its jurisdiction; and the society had the right not only to appoint all its civil officers, and to levy fines according to its discretion, but it also possessed a criminal jurisdiction independent of the king. Fifty years after the introduction of the Cistercian order into England-Furness claiming to be the parent abbey —there were no less than eighty-five monasteries of that order existing. The strict rules were soon relaxed, not only at Furness,but elsewhere, and the abbey became notorious for its luxury and want of discipline. A large and independent trade was carried on with foreign countries-the iron mines of Furness furnishing a valuable article of exchange to the monks, who possessed their own ships of burden. They could also command among their tenantry a military force of 1200 men, of whom 400 were horsemen. At the time of the dissolution.the boundary-wall inclosed an area of sixty-five acres,within which were gardens,fish-ponds, breweries, bakeries, granaries, malt-kilns,etc. There were then but thirty-three monks, and 100 other inmates, many of whom were servants. The abbey, with its dependencies, is built of soft red sand-stone, which does not admit of great ornamentation. The church is 287 feet long,and the walls, in many places five feet thick, are very well preserved. Three of the pillars, and the most eastern of the four arches which supported the great tower ris260 ing from the centre of the transept, are still entire. The high-altar stood below the east window, the glass of which may now be seen at the church of Bowness; the sedilia, formerly richly gilt, still remain. Within the choir are numerous interesting monumental ornaments and slabs. South of the chancel is the chapter-house,with side chapels, and a vestry between the two. In this originally most beautiful building a pillar has been reconstructed out of fragments, and placed in its former upright position, to give some idea of what the beauty of its style and architecture must have been. The present hotel was formerly the abbot's house; here some fine bas-reliefs, which.formerly ornamented the abbey, may be seen. The abbots of this convent succeeded each other during a period of 400 years, and held unlimited sway over the neighboring population, who lived always in a state of vassalage. The last of these abbots, Roger Pyle, made a formal surrender of the abbey to Henry VIII. A few miles from Furness Abbey is situated the rising town and port of Barrow. Hotel Royal. At the early part of the press ent century Barrow contained only two or three fishing-huts; now it has a population of 20,000, mainly owing to the energy and capital of the railway company. It is now the port of shipment of the Furness ironmines. A visit should be made to the im. mense iron-works of Messrs. Schneider & Co., one mile from the town. The extensive floating-docks should also be visited. Thirty miles from Ulverston we reach Egremont, a small market town of about 2500 inhabitants. To the west of the town stand the ruins of Egremont Castle. This was built by William de Meschines soon after the Conquest. General Wyndham is the present owner of the castle. Iron ore abounds in the neighborhood of Egremont, and is carried unsmelted to Whitehaven, where it is shipped. This town contains about 18,842 inhabitants, and is a seaport of some importance. Hotels, Globe and Black Lion. The coal mines of Whitehaven are its great source of wealth. They lie underneath the town, and extend more than two miles beneath the bed of the sea; the sea, indeed, frequently bursts into the mines, causing fearful destruction of life and property. Large quantities of coal are shipped daily, sometimes amounting to COCKERMOUTH. [ENGLAND.] HEXHAM. 1500 tons. Steam-boats run from Whitehaven to Belfast, Dublin, Liverpool, and the Isle of Man. Travelers wishing to take the shortest and cheapest route to the Lake district may take a steamer from Liverpool to Whitehaven, and thence proceed to the lakes by way of Workington and Cockermouth. Cockermouth is about fourteen miles from Whitehaven. Population, 7057. Hotels, Globe and Sun. This town is the birthplace of Wordsworth-born in April, 1770. The ruins of the castle, which stand on the east.bank of the Cocker, are very interesting. This building was erected by the Lord of Allerdale soon after the Norman Conquest. Mary Queen of Scots was confined here in 1568. St. Mary's Church contains a memorial window to Wordsworth. Workington is on the line of the Coast Railway, three miles from Whitehaven. Here Mary Queen of Scots landed after the defeat of her army at Langside, having crossed Solway Firth in a fishing-boat. She -was received at Workington Hall, the seat of the Curwens, with the greatest hospitality. Maryport, seven miles from Whitehaven, contains 6037 inhabitants. Coal is the chief article of export, which is shipped by means of tramways. The remains of the Roman station Virosidum are to be seen on a cliff to the norlh of the town. This was a very large camp, the ramparts of which are still defined, commanding a view of the Solway Firth and Irish Channel. The excavations were made in 1766. Some portions of the eastern gateway still remain, the approach to which was found to be indicated by marks of chariot-wheels.,i The workmen found the arch of the gate bent violently down and.broken; and on entering the great street disclosed evident marks of the houses having been more than once burned to the ground and rebuilt. The streets had been paved with broad flagstones, much worn by use, particularly the steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have been a temple. The houses had been roofed with Scotch slates, which, with the pegs that fastened them, lay confusedly in the street. Glass vessels, and even mirrors, were found; and coals had evidently been used in the fireplaces. Foundations of buildings were around the fort on all sides."-LYsoNs. There was also a well within the station. ROUTE No. 91. Carlisle to Newcastle, via Haltwhistle and Hexham, by rail. Time, 3 hours; fare, 11s. Carlisle, see Route No. 88. Leaving Carlisle by a branch of the Northeastern Railway, the first place of importance reached is Brampton, formerly a Roman station. It is a pretty town, situated in a narrow valley, and containing 2300 inhabitants. The IMote is the name given to a hill near the town, 360 feet high, which is surrounded by a fosse, and is believed to have been either a Saxon court of justice or a Danish fort. Two miles from Brampton is a cliff called lIilbeck, bearing an inscription cut by the Second Roman Legion (Augusta), which was stationed here under the command of the Proprsetor Agricola. The base of the rock is washed by the river Gelt, and the inscription is placed about five feet above the water, according to which " the vexillarii of the Second Legion were, in the consulship of Flavius Asper and Albinus Romanus (A.D. 270), employed to hew stone here for the Romans." Haltwhistle is a small market-town of 1750 inhabitants, whose houses still bear traces of battlements and other fortifications, rendered necessary by the constant depredations of the border wars. The principal building is the Church of the Holy Cross, in the Early English style, restored in 1868. It contains some curious ancient monuments, among others one of Bishop Ridley's brother-in-law,with the date 1562. Bellister Castle, long the residence of the Blinkinsopp family, lies half a mile from Haltwhistle, on the opposite bank of the Tyne. It consists of a border tower with a manor-house attached, shaded by large sycamore-trees; both are now in ruins. Hexham, once a place of great importance as the capital of Hexhamshire, is now a large market-town of 9665 inhabitants, consisting of one long main street, from which two narrow streets lead to the market-place. This was formerly interesting from its antique appearance, which is unfortunately fast disappearing day by day. On the south, near the covered market, is a fountain called the " Pant," bearing the inscription "Ex domo Roberti Allgood armigeri, Anno D.M. 1703." On the western side stands the church, and on the east is an 261 HEXHAM. [ENGLAND.] CLAPHAM. old gray tower dating from the time of Edward II. Another much larger tower, called Moot Hall, may be reached by passing through a Gothic arch into Hallsgarth Street; the date of this is unknown. The Abbey or Cathedral Church of St. Andrew is a magnificent building in the Early English style,with a tower 100 feet high, surrounded by an arcade of five lancets. The church was formerly cruciform, but the nave having been destroyed by the Scots in the time of Edward I., has never been rebuilt. The transept is 158 feet in length; the arches and pillars in the centre, supporting the tower, are most magnificent, and ornamented with rich carvings,which have been unfortunately greatly obscured by whitewash. The monuments, some of which are very fine, have been nearly all removed to the transept. "Prior Richard's Shrine," of carved oak, in the southern transept, is particularly worthy of notice. A richly carved rood-screen separates the choir from the transept; on the inside is the figure of the Virgin surrounded by those of seven early bishops of Hexham,while on the outside are paintings from the Dance of Death. In ancient times it was the custom to hang a glove in the church of Hexham as challenge to an adversary. This custom is alluded to by Scott in "Rokeby:" " Edmund, thy years were scarcely mine, When challenging the cl tis of 'yne, To bring their best my brand to prove, O'er tlexham's altar hung my glove; But Tynedale ior in tower nor town Held champion meet to take it down." A Saxon crypt was discovered under the nave in 1726,which was part of the original church built by the first bishop,Wilfrid. ROUTE No. 92. Lancaster to Leeds, via Skipton, 1by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 10 min. Lancaster, see Route No. 88. Halton is the first station passed. It is a small village with a pretty church, in 262 whose burial-ground a Roman votive altar was discovered; a chased silver cup was also found on Halton Moor. Within the church is a monument bearing the following curious epitaph: "He was-but words are wanting to say what. Think what a man should be; though an attorney, he was that." Leaving Halton, the line after crossing and recrossing the Lune reaches Caton Station, where Roman antiquities have also been discovered. In 1803 a milliarium was found, also a pillar bearing an inscription to the Emperor Adrian. IIornby is a picturesquely situated village, with a castle believed to occupy the site of a Roman villa, owing to the quantities of coins and ornaments which have been discovered in excavating here. A fortress was first erected here by Nicholas Montbeggon, and after passing through various hands became the property of Sir Edward Stanley, who was created Baron Monteagle by Henry VIII. The present*building was erected by him, although it has undergone some alteration from the Ifands of other owners. The keep, with the motto of Lord Monteagle on the northern side, " Glav et Gant," or sword and glove, is the oldest portion of the castle. Passing through Wennington Junction (whence a branch line runs to Carnforth) and Bentham,we reach Clapham, famous for its cave and lovely scenery. The village is one mile from the station; at the New Inn guides may be obtained for visiting the cavern, which is reached on foot through the grounds of Ingleborough Hall. The price for a single person to enter the cavern is 2s. 6d.; for a party of eight or ten, Is. each. This cave, entered by a low opening, has been explored to a distance of 2106 feet from the entrance. Up to the year 1837 it was supposed to he but 80 yards in length, owing to a wall of stalagmite which obstructed farther progress. At the extremity of the cave a stream of water falls into a pool, which was explored by Mr. Farrar (by swimming). A rock of limestone, of which the entire cavern is composed, stopped all farther progress, and proved to be its limit. Water having ceased to run over the stalactites of the old cave, they have lost their virgin whiteness and become a dull brown in color, resembling clusters of petrified moss. In SK IPTON. [ENGLAND.] PENISTONE. the new cave, however, the stalagmites are of a glittering whiteness; a long passage lined with these leads to the Pillar Hall, where stalactites and stalagmites have united to form transparent pillars, and producing a most beautiful effect. A narrow passage beyond this hall, through which you have to creep, leads to the Giant's Hall, another magnificent room, from the side of which two small holes lead to a lower level, where is situated the pool already mentioned. White rats inhabit this cave, which is of easy access and may be explored by ladies, with proper attention to dress. The ascent of Ingleborough may be made from Clapham, the distance being about four miles. On the summit of this mountain, 2361 feet above the level of the sea, is a walled hill fort inclosing about fifteen acres, containing some foundations of huts, and resembling many found in Ireland and North Wales. The view from here embraces all the neighboring mountain groups, but the summit is rarely free enough from clouds to allow its full beauties to be enjoyed. Skipton, a town containing 6078 inhabitants, consists of one long main street, at the head of which stand the church and castle. This is the capital of Craven, which belonged between the 12th and 15th centuries to the houses of Percy and Clifford, Skipton being the head of the latter barony. It is mentioned in Domesday as Scepstone, from Scep, a sheep, a name which was probably derived from the sheep-walks which cover the neighboring hills. The town is now famous for its cattle markets, which are held every two weeks. The castle is divided into two periodsthe towers dating from the reign of Edward II., and the eastern or inhabited portion from that of Henry VIII. The entrance is beneath a square tower, which bears the Clifford motto, " Desormais," in open letters. The more modern portion of the castle consisted formerly of a long gallery, which was divided into smaller rooms during the last century. There is some tapestry of the time of Henry IV. well deserving of notice, as well as two portraits of the famous Lady Anne Clifford, who regained and restored the castle after its partial demolition in the Parliamentary Wars. Skipton Church, adjoining the cas tle, is only interesting as being the burialplace of the Earls of Cumberland and their countesses, whose tombs are marked by some fine monuments. Skipton was the birthplace of Lord St. Leonards and of the antiquary Holmes. About one hour from Skipton Kirkstall, site of the ruins of the beautiful Kirkstall Abbey, is passed. This abbey was founded by Henry de Lacy in the first half of the 12th century, who during a dangerous illness made a vow that in case of recovery he would erect a Cistercian convent. The abbey was first established at Barnoldswick in Craven, but the monks having encountered many difficulties there, the site was changed to Kirkstall, and Henry de Lacy laid the foundation of the church with his own hands, and the whole was completed at his expense. The ruins are now the property of the Earl of Cardigan, and may be visited on payment of a small sum at the entrance. Their proximity to Leeds has tended to decrease their beauty, many parts being blackened by the smoke of that manufacturing city, which has also completely discolored thz waters of the Aire that flow past the ruins. In 1856 some excavations were undertaken by a committee from Leeds, who leased the ruins for that purpose; when glass and pottery, ornamented keys, encaustic paving tiles, etc., were discovered in large quantities, as well as a mould of Caen stone for casting metal escalop shells, and a chess-piece of the 12th century carved from the tusk of a walrus. Leeds, see Route No. 83. ROUTE No. 93. Sheffield to Lancaster, via Penistone, uaddersfield, Halifax, and Bradford, by rail. Time, 3 hours. Shffield, see Route No. 80. Penistone is a large village chiefly noted for its cattle market, containing a fine 263 I HDDERSFIELD. '[ENGLAND.] BRADFORD. church, restored in 1863. The ancestors of William Wordsworth resided in the parish of Penistone until the last century, when the poet's grandfather removed to Westmoreland. In the neighboring hills are two remarkable intrenchments of circular form, about 900 feet in circumference, with an external ditch, and with entrances facing each other north and south. Huddersfield, a town containing 38,654 inhabitants, is situated in the valley of the Colne, just below the junction of that river with the Holme. Cloth-weaving is here carried on to a great extent, and the abundance of water-power, as well as the coal which is found here in plenty, greatly increases the facility of manufacture, and consequently the prosperity of the place. Beyond the mills and factories the town contains little of interest, the churches being all modern. There is a Mechanics' Institution, a Literary and Scientific Society, and a Cloth Hall, built in 1768, which would repay a visit on market-days. HIalifacx, situated on the Hebble, ranks third in importance as a cloth manufacturing town, being exceeded in the quantity produced by Leeds and Bradford. Population 37,208. Hotels, White Swan and Railway. In 1443 there were not more than forty houses at Halifax, until in the reign of Henry VII. cloth-making was introduced by Flemish workmen. Since then the town has gone on rapidly increasing, and the manufacture of worsted stuffs begun in the last century has nearly doubled its trade. Over 17,000 hands are employed in that manufacture alone. The principal buildings of Halifax are the Parish Church of St. John, the Church of All Souls, the Town-hall, the Cloth or Piece Hall, and the Manor Court-house. The parish church dates mostly from 1447, but retains portions of two earlier churches-one Saxon, and the other of the 13th century. The modern Church of All Souls is a beautiful building, erected and endowed by E. Akroyd, Esq. The foundation-stone was laid in 1856, and the whole was completed in 1859, at a cost of $350,000. In the western part of the town, in a court opening from Gibbet Lane, is a platform of stones about eight feet in height, where the once famous Halifax gibbet stood. Any person discovered stealing -cloth, after being taken before the bailiff 264 and tried, if found guilty, was beheaded here. Such an execution could only take place en the principal market-day; and if the offender had been tried and condemned before that time, he was placed in the stocks, and exhibited on ordinary marketdays with the stolen goods either on his back or before him. From 1541, when this gibbet was erected, to 1650, when this mode of execution was abolished, more than 50 persons suffered punishment here. The platform is now grass-grown, and the walls of the court are covered with ivy. The gibbet itself was a rude instrument, with an axe about eight pounds in weight fixed in a block of wood hanging from a framework about fifteen feet high. The axe was grooved so that it might descend rapidly, and death was instantaneous. On the route from here to Bradford the country abounds in mills, factories, and collieries; four tunnels and several unimportant stations are passed before reaching the latter place. Bradford, the great seat of the worsted trade, is situated at the union of three extensive valleys, where three railroads meet. It contains a population of 106,218. Coal and iron abound in the vicinity, but spinning and weaving worsted and woolen cloths is the chief employment of the inhabitants. There are altogether about 180 mills, employing 12,000 hands. The principal buildings are St. George's Music Hall, opened in 1853, the Town-hall, Court-house, and Exchange. Peel Park, containing 64 acres, is about a mile from the town. Leeds, see Route No. 83. ROUTE No. 94. London to Great Malvern, via Oxford and Worcester, by rail, 128k miles. Time, 4 hrs. 30 min.; fare, ~1 3s. 3d. From Paddington to Oxford, see Route No. 85; distance, 63j miles. Hotel, Clarendon. At Chipping Norton Junction, on the MOR ETON. [ENGLAND.] WORCESTER. route to Worcester, a branch line leads off to Stow-on-the-Wold, an ancient markettown, first built in a wood, from which circumstance it derives its name as well as the following traditional verse"A squirrel can hop from Swell to Stowe, Without resting his foot Qr wetting his toe." The church, containing specimens of every style of architecture, was built by the monks of Evesham; it is surmounted by a fine tower of four stories, adorned with pinnacles; it is 80 feet in height, and contains a chime of six bells, the oldest bearing the date 1606, with the words, "God save King James." Moreton is a small market-town, consisting of one main street about half a mile in length, and containing 2000 inhabitants. Three miles to the northeast lies Chastleton Hall, one of the estates sold by Catesby to raise funds for carrying out the Gunpowder Plot. In this house is an interesting miniature of Charles I., with the different events of his life printed on the covers. This is one of four made by order of Charles II., and presented by him to the owner of Chastleton. Blockley, the next station passed, was a place of importance under the Saxon kings. Evesham, situated on the right bank of the Avon, contains 4890 inhabitants. The town owes its existence to a monastic institution founded here by St. Egwin in the 8th century, who, having been sent in fetters to Rome on a false accusation, was happily delivered through the instrumentality of a fish caught in the Tiber, in whose stomach the key of the fetters, thrown by the saint into the Avon before setting out, was found. The Pope considered this miracle a refutation of all accusations, and St. Egwin was allowed 'to depart in peace. The abbey was at one time one of the largest and most prosperous in the kingdom, but at the Dissolution it was almost entirely destroyed, the only portion which escaped being the bell-tower added to the abbey by Abbot Lichfield in 1533. Simon de Montfort's mutilated trunk was buried before the high altar of the abbey church, which is now completely destroyed. Within the church-yard are two churches, St. Lawrence's, of the 16th century, which has been restored, and All Saints, which contains the highly decorated mortuary chapel of Abbot Lichfield. VOL. I. —M 2 Greenhill, an eminence situated a little to the north of the town, was the site of the battle of Evesham, fought between Simon de Montfort, who held Henry III. prisoner, and Prince Edward, afterward Edward I. A spring, called Battle Well, marks the spot of Simon's death, by which event the royal authority was fully re-established. Passing Fladbury Station, an ancient village which existed as early as A.D. 691, when, under the name of Fledanbyrig, it was given to the See of Worcester by King Ethelred,we reach Pershore, eight miles from Worcester. A religious house was founded here as early as A.D. 689 by Oswald, nephew of Ethelred, King of Mercia, which became in 970 a Benedictine abbey by charter from King Edgar. The Church of the Holy Cross, the only portion now standing, contains some very interesting monuments. The tower, dating from the 14th century, is square in form and of great beauty. Worcester, capital of the county of that name. is situated on the left bank of the Severn, 66 miles from Bristol, and is nearly in the centre of England. Population 37,231. Hotels, Star and Garter and Hop Pole. Worcester is chiefly visited for its Cathedral: this is a fine building, in the Early English style, with the exception of the crypt, which is Norman. It is in the form of a double cross, 384 feet long, with a tower rising 170 feet. The oldest part now standing dates from 1218, when it was restored after a fire; it was formerly the church of an abbey founded by the Saxon kings. Among the tombs are those of King John, the most ancient royal monument in England, whose body was shown to the people in 1797, and then replaced; of Arthur, son of Henry VII.; and of Bishop Hough, the bas-reliefs of which are some of the best works of Roubiliac. The old cloisters are now occupied by the cathedral dignitaries, and contain some of the best stained windows in England. Among the other buildings may be mentioned the Episcopal Palace, the Guildhall, the Town-hall, Edgar's Tower, a curious piece of antiquity; the County Jail, which occupies the site of the ancient castle; and the Theatre, built in 1870. Leaving Worcester either by the Shrub Hill Station or Foregate Street Station, in twenty minutes we reach 265 MALVERN. [ENGLAND.] MALVERN WELLS. Malvern, a place of considerable antiq- Mary," "The Last Supper," and "The uity, situated on the slope of the Mal- Blind restored to Sight." The tesselated vern Hills, about 29 miles from Glouces- pavement of this church was once remarkter and 8 from Worcester. It is divided able for its beauty and richness of design; into two parts, Great and Little Malvern, many of the tiles still remain, each with a which are about 32 miles distant from each different design, many having the armorial other. The mineral springs for which bearings of different families in the neighMalvern is celebrated lie between the two. borhood of Malvern; the kiln at which These springs are called St. Anne's and these encaustic tiles were made by the Holywell; the water is slightly tepid and monks has been discovered about 200 yards sulphureted, and is chiefly useful for skin from the church and abbey gateway; diseases. Besides its mineral springs, Mal- many pieces were found here correspondvern is also celebrated for the extent to ing in pattern with those in the Malvern which the hydropathic system, or water- churches. In additiontothe parish church, cure, is carried on, it being the recognized there are ten others in Malvern or its vihead-quarters of hydropathy. cinity. The Imperial Hotel, situated near the Malvern College, founded in 1863 by the railway station, is a beautiful building, Bishop of Worcester, is a fine building sitwhere the traveler will find every comfort uated on the slope of North Hill, where and accommodation, with a perfection of about 600 boys are prepared for the unimanagement only to be seen in a first-class versities. The Worcestershire Beacon is house; it is surrounded by flower-gardens, one of a range of hills forming part of the lawns, terraces, and commands unequaled boundary-line between Worcestershire and views of the Malvern Hills, and of the val- Herefordshire: it rises 1300 feet above ley scenery of Worcestershire. Malvern Great Malvern, and commands from its was a place of importance in ecclesiastical summit a most glorious view, comprising history; its name was derived from the Worcester (8 miles), Gloucester (26), ChelBritish Moel and Vern, signifying the tenham (22), Tewkesbury (16), and Evesmountain on the plain. The beauty of ham (21). St. Anne's Well may be visited its situation, the diversity of scenery, and in making the descent; from here a path the purity and salubrity of its climate, leads to the Sugar Loaf, a hill which forms added to its medicinal springs, render it a the connecting link between the Beacon favorite place of resort during the summer and North Hill. Its summit commands season. The population in 1871 amounted a view of the villages of Mathon, Colwall, to 7606, which is of course greatly increased Cradley, and West Malvern. This last during the summer months. consists principally of detached villas beMalvern Priory, endowed by Edward the longing to private families, and standing Confessor, was one of the most flourishing in their own grounds. The drive from of the monastic establishments existing Malvern here, returning by the Wytche during the Middle Ages; the Refectory road, should not be omitted (6 miles). and gateway now alone remain, the latter The ascent of the North Hill may be made being a beautiful specimen of the later En- past the Ivy Scar Rock, an eminence covglish style. Malvern Church originally ered with ivy, strongly resembling the formed a part of the Priory, but at the dis- ruins of an ancient castle. solution of monasteries it was bought by At Malvern Wells, two miles from Malthe inhabitants for a parish church. It is vern, is situated the hydropathic establisha fine Gothic structure, 173 feet in length ment, adjoiningthe Holy Well already menand 63 in breadth, with a tower 124 feet tioned. A drive should be taken to Little high; it was reconstructed in the 15th Malvern to visit the old Norman church, century, and greatly beautified by Henry an interesting ruin, of which the tower and VII. and his queen, who after their visit choir alone remain. Some three miles from to Malvern filled the windows with stained Little Malvern stands Eastnor Castle, open glass; one of these, the western, still re- to visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays. Near mains, and represents " The Presentation the building is an obelisk, 90 feet in height, in the Temple," "The Salutation of Eliz- erected in 1812 to the memory of Lord Chanabeth to Mary," "The Angel appearing to cellor Somers, James Cox, who fell in bat. 266 HUNGERFORD STATION. [ENGLAND.] MARLBOROUG1. tie (1768), and of E. C. Cocks, who died before Bruges, aged twenty-six. The Herefordshire Beacon rises just back of Little Malvern, and is crowned by a camp or hill fort, such as has been already described. Cowleigh Park is a favorite resort for pedestrians and equestrians, the scenery between it and Malvern being of unequaled beauty. Malvern is 120 miles distant from London, 115 from Liverpool, 120 from Manchester, 66 from Bath, and 60 from Bristol. ROUTE No. 95. London to Land's End, via Reading, Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Torquay, Dartmouth, and Plymouth, by rail from Paddington. Time, 10 hrs. 20 min.; fare, ~3 3s. 6d. London to Reading, see Route No. 85. At Reading a road leaves the main line to Bristol, passing through tIungerford and Davizes, connecting again at Bath, the main line passing through Farringdon and Swinden. From Hungerford Station, 61 miles from London, an excursion may be made to Littlecote, the seat of the Popham family. This building was erected by the Darells in the 16th century, and sold in the reign of Elizabeth to Judge Popham. By many it is believed, however, to have been offered as a bribe to that officer by William Darell, who was accused by a midwife of having burned a child born in the house. According to this woman's story, she was escorted from Berkshire, in the dead of night, by a messenger who placed her blindfolded on a horse, and, after riding with her for some distance, stopped at a house where she performed her duties to a masked lady. Immediately after the child's birth, a villainous-looking man entered and threw the babe on the fire blazing on the hearth, by which it was completely consumed. The horror of this crime so troubled the midwife's mind that, notwithstandingthe large bribe she had received, she confessed the whole to a magistrate, showing at the same time a piece of the bed-curtain which she had abstracted. The great hall of the house is hung with every species of armor, including buff-jerkins and steel caps belonging to Cromwell's Ironsides. There is a fine gallery 100 feet long, filled with family portraits, including those of Nell Gwynne and Judge Popham. A curious instrument of torture, called the finger-stocks, is also shown, used in former times for the punishment of servants. Visitors are only allowed entrance to the Hall during the absence of the family. From Savernake Station, 70 miles from London, a branch line runs to Marlborough. Savernake Forest and Tottenham are the property of the Marquis of Ailesbury. and extend over a tract of country 16 miles in circumference, lying east of Marlborough. The forest is said to be the only one in the country in the possession of a subject, and was part of the jointure of Queen Eleanor. Here is an oak of great antiquity, called the King Oak or Duke's Vaunt, from having been a favorite of Protector Somerset; there is also a magnificent avenue of beechtrees four miles in length, and a creeping oak, with a monstrous limb growing along the ground. Tottenham House was begun in 1781 by the first Earl of Ailesbury, and is a large plain building, originally designed as a hunting-seat. There are some fine pictures by Van Dyck, Murillo, Raphael, Poussin, and Lely. Marlborough may be reached either by a branch line from Savernake or by a walk through the forest of some five or six miles. The castle, built in the reign of Henry I. by Bishop Roger of Salisbury, has been inhabited by a succession of sovereigns. In the reign of Edward VI. it was granted by the crown to the Dukes of Somerset, and was by them let on lease to Mr. Cotterell, who opened it as an inn. For almost a century the "Castle Inn" was known as one of the finest in the kingdom. Here the great Lord Chatham put up in 1767 for about three weeks, having been attacked by gout on his way to London. In 1779, the house was purchased by the Marquis of Ailesbury, in whose family it still remains. A pleasant day's excursion may be made from Marlborough to the Devil's Den, Avebury, and Silbury Hill. A carriage for this excursion may be procured at the Ailesbury Arms for 7s. 6d.; the time employed being about three hours. 267 .AVEBURY. [ENGLAND.] BRISTOL. The Devil's Den, soon reached, is a cromlech about ten feet high, consisting of a slab twelve or fifteen feet in length, originally supported by four blocks, of which two only now remain in an upright position. The village of Avebury is almost entirely built of fragments from the huge stone circles existing here for centuries, more than 650 stones having been destroyed for building purposes. These circles of stones were formerly surrounded by an earthen rampart 70 feet in height, and nearly circular in form, with a circumference of 4442 feet. Within this was a deep fosse, along the inner margin of which huge unhewn stones, about 100 in number, were placed, 27 feet apart; of these 15 only now remain, 10 of which stand erect. Within this circle were two smaller ones, consisting originally of thirty stones each; of the most northern 4 alone remain, 3 being erect, and of the southern 5 remain, 3 of which are prostrate. Each of these secondary circles had inner circles of twelve stones, of which the traces still exist. In the centre of the northern circle stood three large stones forming an adytum: two of these are still in existence, the taller being 17 feet in height, 7 feet 7 inches in width, and 2 feet 4 inches in thickness. Tie circular earthwork was approached on the S.W. and S.E. by double avenues of upright blocks, 72 feet in width, each consisting of about 200 stones placed in pairs, 48 feet apart. Avebury dates from a period previous to the conquest of Britain by the Romans, and is believed by most antiquaries to be older than Stonehengc. Many theories exist in relation to its use, but only one fact is undeniable-that it was never intended for a military work, as is proved by the existence of the fosse inside instead of outside the earthen rampart. Close to the earthen rampart stands Avebury Church, a Norman structure of flint and stone; a mile to the southeast rises Silb)ury Hill, close to the Roman road from Marlborough to Bath. This is certainly the largest artificial hill in Europe: its form is that of a truncated cone, 1657 feet in circumference at the base, with sides sloping upward at an angle of 30~; it is 125 feet in height, with a circular area on the summit 104 feet in diameter. The base was formerly surrounded by a circle of stones, placed 18 feet apart, but few of these are 268 now visible. The object of this enormous hill, as well as the time of its construction or the people by whom it was erected, is completely shrouded in mystery. Passing through Devizes, containing the ruins of an ancient castle, we soon reach Bath, 107 miles from London, a beautiful and very ancient town, which has from the earliest times attracted attention by its medicinal springs; it is greatly resorted to by visitors in search of health and pleasure. The Romans erected baths here as early as A.D. 43. These were discovered about a century ago, near the Abbey. They lie about twenty feet below the present soil, and measure 240 feet by 120 feet. The floors are tesselated, and many of them are in a perfect state. There are four hot springs in Bath: the Hot Bath, the King's, the Queen's, and the Cross Bath: the first is the highest in temperature, 117~ of Fahrenheit, and yields 128 gallons a minute. The King's Bath is situated in a fine Grecian building open to the sky, with a colonnade extending from one side. The principal buildings in Bath are the Pumproom, Assembly Buildings, and the Abbey Church. The last contains numerous monuments, among them that of Beau Nash, formerly styled King of Bath; Sir Walter Waller; and Quin, the actor. On Lansdowne Hill stands a very lofty tower, erected by William Beckford, author of " Vathek." He died at Bath in 1844, and is buried in a cemetery formed from his own grounds. The population of Bath is 52,533. Principal hotel, the York House, finely and conveniently situated near the springs, and admirably managed by the proprietor, Mr. Smeoth. The town is situated on both sides of the Avon, ten miles above Bristol. In the vicinity are situated the ruins of Farleigh Castle and of Hinton Priory, both well worth a visit. Bristol is the third commercial city in England. The distance from London by railway is 118 miles. The Royal Hotel is decidedly the finest and best man, aged hotel in Bristol, and one of the finest in England, affording every com, fort to the traveler. Bristol is a large commercial city, lying chiefly on the north bank of the lower Avon, possessing magnificent docks. In consequence of the great rise of tides in the British Channel and in the river, the largest ships are en ZI I B RI STO L / wem led Harper's Raud-Iflook BRISTOL. [ENGLAND.] TAUNTON. abled to come up to the town. The build- the door is elaborately carved, and resemings are rather peculiar, being built with bles one to be found in the monastery of gardens and terraces one above the other, Batalha, Portugal. Bristol possessed before resembling an amphitheatre. Education- the Reformation no less than 19 churches, al institutions are numerous and highly of which 15 still exist. The other princiappreciated. The city of Bristol is large, pal public buildings are the Commercial and rich in varieties of literature. Contri- Rooms, Library, Victoria Rooms, Fine Arts butions to charitable institutions are very Academy, Exchange, and Guildhall. extensive, and the poor are provided for From Bristol travelers may return to liberally and in various ways. Bristol America by the shortest and most direct was the birthplace of many distinguished route, taking the steamers of the Great men, among whom may be mentioned Western Line. These are fine, first-class Robert Southey; Thomas Chatterton, the vessels sailing to New York, by taking poet; Bayley, the sculptor; William of which the dangers and discomforts of the Worcester, the typographer; and Sebas- English Channel are avoided. First-class tian Cabot, who discovered Newfoundland fare, 13 guineas. Apply at the offices of in 1499. The city suffered severely in the Mark Whitwill & Son, Grove Avenue, Civil War of the seventeenth century, but Queen Square, Bristol. was comparatively undisturbed during the Clfton is a charming suburb of Bristol, War of the Roses. Its castle was built by and is situated near the gorge of the Avon, the Earl of Gloucester, brother to the Em- which is about eight miles distant from the press Matilda, and was long one of the river's mouth. This chasm is 700 feet in chief Western strongholds; having been width, and is spanned by a beautiful susdismantled and its fortifications demolished pension bridge. The water flows below at by order of Parliament in 1655, little now a distance of 260 feet. On one side of the remains but the exterior walls and bas- cliffs are the beautiful Leigh Woods, covtions. The Cathedral, once the church of ering the cliffs with foliage, and on the a monastery founded in 1142 by Robert other are dotted the houses of Clifton, Fitzhardinge for Augustine canons, is sit- which extend to the highest point. Here uated on the right bank of the Avon, just also are the Hot Wells, to which Clifton outside the walls of Bristol; it occupies the owes its fame and prosperity. There is no site of the traditional Augustine oak, under theatre in Clifton, but it has fine Assembly whose branches a conference was held be- Rooms. tween the founder of the English Church Cook's Folly is the name given to a pictand the British Christians. Of the origi- uresque tower situated on a hill overlooknal church built by Fitzhardinge only the ing the Avon, dating from 1693. It is so walls of the transepts, the vestibule, and named from a tradition that a person called chapter-house remain. Although the See Cook shut himself up in the building to of Bristol is one of the poorest in England, escape the fulfillment of a dream, which it has been conferred upon many famous predicted his death by a serpent's bite. men: Fletcher, who, as Dean of Peterbor- Unfortunately for the success of his atough. troubled in her last hours the unhap- tempt at evading the decree of the Fates, a py Queen of Scots by exhortations to viper was brought in with some fagots for change her faith; Lake, one of the seven the fire, which inflicted the decreed deathNonjuring Bishops; Trelawney, the sub- wound. ject of the well-known verses- Taunton, 163 miles from London, derives its name from the River Tone, on which it "'And shall Trelawney die? is situated. Population, including neighThere's twenty thousand Cornishmen Will know the reason why;" boring parishes, 13,720. Hotels, London and Castle. This is believed to have been and Butler, the author of " The Analogy a Roman station from the number of coins of Religion." St. Mary Redcliffe far excels found in the vicinity, and it was certainly the cathedral in architectural beauty, but a place of importance under the Saxons, wants the historical interest possessed by who built a castle here in A.D. 702. This the latter. The northern porch, unique in building had many successors before the England, is particularly worthy of notice; reign of Henry I., when another was erect269 TIVERTON. [ENGLAND.] TEIGNMOUTH. ed by Bishop Gifford. Additions were latter was founded in the year 1100 by made by various bishops until after the Richard Redvers, but the parts now existRestoration, when the castle was disman- ing probably date from the 14th century. tied and the moat filled up. Taunton Cas- The gateway, with some walls and towers tle was twice defended by Blake against overgrown with ivy, are all that now rethe Royalist forces in 1645. His heroic main of the once beautiful residence of the defense of the town is renowned in history, Earls of Devon. The ruins are now the for after ammunition and provisions were property of Sir W. Palk Carew, Bart. alike expended, he still scouted at any idea Exeter, a place of 41,749 inhabitants, is of surrender, and declared that he would the capital of Devonshire. It is situated eat his boots before he would yield. Even on the River Exe, which is here crossed when a breach had been made in the walls by a handsome stone bridge, erected at a and part of the town was in possession of cost of $100,000. It is 194 miles from the enemy, he still resisted until the siege London by the Great Western Railway. was raised by the approach of Fairfax. Hotels, New Londo, and Clarence. Among Taunton also took an important part in the principal buildings are the Cathedral, the Monmouth rebellion; the Duke was Guildhall, Theatre, Bishop's l'alace, Pictproclaimed King in the market-place, June ure-gallery, and the Albert Memorial Mu20th, 1685, after which his proclamations seum. The Cathedral is a beautiful buildputting a price on the head of James II. ing, 375 feet long in the interior, with Norwere read. Dearly was the town made to man towers 145 feet high: in one of these pay for this disloyalty. After Monmouth's is the great Tom of Exeter, weighing defeat at Sedgemoor, Colonel Kirke and 12,500 pounds. The west front, lately rehis followers were sent to Taunton, and stored, is the finest part of the building, executions succeeded each other without and its st lined window is greatly admired. any form of trial. One hundred persons In the interior are several monuments of were put to death in the week following interest. The Chapter-house, which is the battle, and then the "Bloody Assize" Gothic, with a carved roof, contains a fine presided over by Jeffreys began. The library. North of the city are the ruins judge on his arrival threatened to depop- of Rougemont Castle, said by some to have ulate the town, and only departed after been erected in the time of Julius Caesar, having hung 97 persons and transported by others attributed to the Conqueror. 385. It was razed by Parliament in 1646, The Church of St. Mary Magdalene is when taken by Fairfax after a siege. It celebrated for its fine tower, in four stories, [commands a fine view of the neighbor153 feet in height,which in lightness of ef- hood. fect, and richness of decoration and design, An excursion may be made from Exeter holds the first place among the Perpendic- to Exmouth, about 101 miles from the forular towers for which Somersetshire is fa- mer place. This pleasant watering-place is mous. In addition to several other church- situated at the mouth of the River Exe, and es, the remaining public buildings are the affords a line harbor for ships of 300 tons. Town-hall, Literary Institution (containing Here Alfred the Great made the first attempt a good Museum), and the County Shire- toward the formation of a British navy. hall. A.W. Kinglake, Esq., author of the The town is sheltered from the northeast "History of the CrimeanWar " and "Eo- and southeast winds by high hills which then," was a native of Taunton. rise in the background, rendering it celePassing through Cullompton, an ancient brated for the mildness of its climate. Popbut uninteresting town, situated on the Riv- ulation 5228. Hotels, Imperial and Beacon. er Cultme, and formerly known for its man. Not far from Exmouth, in the parish of ufacture of woolen goods, we reach Tiver- East Budleigh, is the house in which Sir ton Junction, from which the town of Tiv- Walter Raleigh first saw the light in 1552. erton is five miles distant. Population 10,- Leaving Exeter, we soon reach Teign025. Hotels, Angel and Three Tuvn. This. mouth, situated at the mouth of the River town is situated at the junction of the Riv- Teign, and containing 6022 inhabitants. ers Exe and Loman, and contains little of Hotels, Ro(ya and Commercia'. This is, interest but the church and castle. The next to Torquay, the largest watering270 TORQUAY. [ENGLAND.] DARTMOUTH. place in the county of Devonshire. Its by the promontories of Hope's Nose and distinguishing feature is a wide esplanade Berry Head. This bay is well protected called the Den, formed by the shifting from prevalent winds, and is capable of afsands at the mouth of the river: from this fording safe anchorage to the largest fleets a pleasure pier projects, with a light-house -the entrance is about 4~ miles wide. Here at the end, erected in 1844. The public the Prince of Orange first landed, NovemAssembly Room is situated on the Den, ber 5, 1688, and after passing the night in and occupies a handsome building erected a small hut on the shore-over which floatin 1826. The bridge crossing the river at ed his flag, bearing the well-known motto, Teigumlouth is said to be the longest in "God and the Protestant Religion "-he England. It is constructed on thirty-four proceeded to Exeter,where he was received arches, and measures 1671 feet in length; with acclamations, and where the Declarait was built during 1825-27, the cost being tion was publicly read. about ~100,000. One of the favorite excursions in the Twenty-four miles from Exeter is the neighborhood of Torquay is to Kent's Hole: fashionable watering-place of Torquay, a natural cave,which has been explored to which lies on a sort of peninsula, on the a depth of 600 feet. Here were discovered northeast side of Tor Bay. The climate bones of bears, hyenas, elephants, and othof Torquay is soft and humid, and is par- er animals, which no longer exist in the ticularly suited as a winter residence to country. The cave is situated about one persons suffering from pulmonary corn- mile from the town, and permission to explaints; it is entirely protected from north- plore it may be obtained at No. 1 Victoria east winds, but the temperature varies con- Cottages, Abbey Road; price three shilsiderably in different parts, there being a lings. A guide with a torch is required. difference of five or eight degrees within There are two entrances, an eastern and two miles. Population 16,419. There western, consisting of two parallel ranges are numerous hotels in Torquay, but for of galleries and chambers connected by the warmth and comfort we prefer the Royal, same opening. The interior was formerly which commands a fine view of the bay. hung with stalactites, of which some still Amusements of every kind are attainable, exist, and are about eighteen feet in height, there being a theatre, concerts, assembly- va ying from two to seventy feet in width. rooms, libraries, and a museum containing The cavern terminates, at a distance of a fine collection. The Pier, erected in 600 feet, in a pool of water. The floor was 1804, forms the fashionable promenade. at one time covered with stalagmites, varyNot far from the town are the ruins of Tor ing from a few inches to two or three feet Abbey, well deserving a visit. This ab- in thickness, but this has all been broken bey was founded in 1196 for Premonstra- in the course of the scientific explorations tensian monks by William, Lord Brewer, which are continually going on. and was the richest of the thirty-two houses The line from Torquay to Dartmouth enin England belonging to that order. It was circles Torbay, and reaches in 41 miles purchased by the Carys in 1662; but al- Kingsweare Station, whence a steam-ferry though a mansion with wings has been conveys the traveler to Dartmouth. This added, many of the abbey buildings still town is noted for the beauty of its situation exist. The gate-house dates from the 14th it is built in terraces on the shore of a lakecentury, and bears under the vaulting the like harbor, which is only opened to the sea arms of the abbey, as well as those of Mo- by a narrow channel called the Jaw Bones, hun, Brewer, and Speke. The chapel, for- and is surrounded by hills which rise to a merly a refectory, but devoted to religious height of 300 or 400 feet. It is a town of ceremonies in 1779, is also of the 14th cent- great antiquity, evidences of which will ury; and the barn, now used as stables, greet the traveler on his landing at the of the 13th century. This is sometimes railway pontoon. Proceeding up Duke called the Spanish barn. from the fact that Street, he will see many ancient houses, several captives from the Armada were im- for which the town is so remarkable, bearprisoned here. Tor Bay, on which the ab- ing upon their fronts dates ranging from bey is situated, is nearly square in form, 1625 to 1640. These, with their gables, and is bounded on the north and the south piazzas, carvings, and wooden frame-work, 271 PLYMOUTH. [ENGLAND.] FALMOUTU. present a very picturesque appearance, but taining 2000 vessels. At the mouth of the they are unfortunately fast giving place to Sound, three miles from the town, is the more modern edifices. Hotels, Castle and famous Breakwater, begun in 1812. It is Quay. The church of St. Savior, dedicat. 1700 yards in length, and is 70 or 80 yards ed in 1372, should be visited on account of wide at the bottom, narrowing at the top its fine stone pulpit, oak rood-screen, and to ten or twelve yards. At one end stands southern entrance-door,with its curious iron a light-house, at the other a fort. Two ornament. Dartmouth Castle stands upon and a half million tons of stone were sunk the extreme end of the promontory which to form this dike. The first fort built in bounds the entrance to the harbor. It con- the Sound was erected at the invasion of sists of a round tower, dating from the reign the Spanish Armada, and it was from here of Henry VII., and a square tower of later that the English ships sailed out to meet period. Through the round tower the chain and conquer their foes. The citadel of was passed which stretched across the har- Plymouth stands on a cliff called the Hoe, bor to defend its entrance, while a groove which was first regularly fortified in 1670. was scooped out of a rock on the opposite About ten miles from Plymouth is the shore for its reception. In addition totthe Eddystone Light-house, which stands on a two towers, the wall and the ditch which rock in the open channel. It is ofoctagosurround the castle inclose the ruins of an nal form, and the frame-work is composed ancient manor-house, a small church (St. of cast-iron and copper. The outside and Petrox), and a modern casemated battery. basement of the building is built of granThe best view of the castle is to be obtain- ite, as that stone is best able to bear the ed from the sea in fine weather. Back of action of the sea. The first stone was laid the building rises a hill to the height of 300 in June, 1757, and the whole was finished feet, whose summit is crowned by the re- in October, 1759. This light-house has mains of a fort mentioned by Fairfax in proved very beneficial during the frightful his dispatches to Parliament as Gallants' storms that rage along the coast. It is inBower. habited by three keepers, who are sipplied Dartmouth, or its neighborhood, has been with provisions by a boat appointed for the birthplace of some famous men: nota- that purpose; hut a large stock of salt bly, Newcomin, the inventor of the steam- meat is always kept in the place, as during engine; Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who took the winter the boat is often unable to effect possession of the Island of Newfoundland a landing for weeks at a time. in the name of Queen Elizabeth, was also Five miles from Plymouth is Plympton, born near the town; as well as Davis, the the birthplace of Sir Joshua Reynolds, in daring navigator. whose grammar-school he was educated, Plymouth, a fortress and naval dock- as were also the painters Northcote and yard, is 246 miles from London by the Eastlake. Great Western Railway. Plymouth de- Falmouth, situated at the mouth of the rives its name from the River Plylrr, at the River Fal, contains 5709 inhabitants. Homouth of which it stands. The Royal tels, Falmouth and Green Bank. Its harDock yard, covering a space of 71 acres, is bor is one of the best in England. On one at Devonport, and the Victualing Office, side of the entrance stands Pendennis CasMarine Barracks, and Naval and Military tle, which endured a siege of six months Hospital are at Stonehouse, though both in the royal cause during the Parliamentare united under the name of Plymouth. ary wars. On the opposite side is St. AnHotels, Royal and Chubb's Commercial. thony's Light-house, and in the centre rises Population 68,080. The principal build- the Black Rock. The town itself has little ings are the Assembly Rooms, Theatre, and of interest; it consists of one long street Royal Hotel, all forming part of one block, running along the side of the harbor. in the Ionic style; the Athenmeum, the Leaving Falmouth we rejoin the main Exchange, Public Library, and Guildhall. line of the Great Western Railway at The three harbors of Plymouth are-the Truro, the capital of Cornwall, containing mouth of the Plym, called Catwater; the 11,377 inhabitants, and continue to Penestuary of the Tamar, called Hamoaze; zance, which stands at the terminus of the and Sutton Pool; and are capable of con- railway. On our route we pass Marazion, 272 I v., I I t, Afa do c 100 Om Coborvol 0swestrS AF WSBU dzave D d rite beryst Xi hzo IR z4zd Ludlo Fl a nor JPI b 7 coml step Kin 0 ESTE Xlanw Cardi ran ffadthl nl G Malver HE EIFO wwdl TY-aJ77,, a-cely Brecon S.Ipev d, Ross -Pont.Cross Ann, Caerlrn Abe ve-nn uc 7-d' out-h Y-izz& m th dwe.)?em-bpol e- dbewda 001 Por-alke Tab u.-h a ort, Talb t y Yate, 7!! L e& Rvdstoch, EEC-, AE e. tbw, rwq ro Maam 0 W I a,,water Pnstaple ultoln/ 0 CO'S da 1 ang, 7-t 7o.,,r 7 Yco-N-1 ton, lelz,17& 407ZI Afair tOR1 Yezoto Lyme#esm EXETE Lawn. esto 0 tow Yewtonl B dm roo LY-AIOUTH D P t I I 13OmdLES. ROLY LPat at to oitnh1ti Mia es4C% ~ --— C --- —--- ~L~a~~;9 $(;4'4 c~4~awgfaw --- —--------— I AD -R.zw ~ vrn~C1C~l Sad~e,aL Bsy~ae~r Jit~i~ed~ Tha AtI y ii Rrda7~ vlb. BaidseyICID CADRk7~ faat~ 3~~ NA ~b7?WU S~,>ISht: Liuid1~ - 4x 0 chiig~eaS 1 Jtjfod harper llau Took GLOUCESTER. [ENG] famous in the Middle Ages as a place of resort for pilgrims proceeding to St. Michael's Mount. This rocky promontory stands about a quarter of a mile from the shore, and at low water may be reached by a causeway. In olden times it was a tin depot, and bore the name of Ictes. On the summit are the remains of a priory founded before the Conquest; it is now the property of the St. Aubyn family. The wife of the Pretender, Perkin Warbeck, took refuge here in 1497. Penzance is a pleasant town, situated on the west side of Mount's Bay, and contains 9414 inhabitants. Hotels, Queen's and Union. It carries on a considerable trade in tin, copper, granite, and pilchards. Among the principal buildings are St. John's Hall, which includes a Music-hall, Museum, Library, and Guildhall; the Town-hall, Corn-market, and St. Paul's Church.- Five miles from Penzance is a Druidical circle called the " Merry Maidens," and another north of the town of nineteen stones, with one in the centre, called Boscawen Un. Among other objects of interest in the neighborhood are " The Pipers," a cromlech; Lamorna Cave, and the celebrated Logan Stone, which may be moved by a touch, though weighing 90 tons. This rock was overturned by Lieutenant Goldsmith in 1824 as the result of a wager; this so roused the indignation of the neighboring people that he was obliged to replace it, which he did at great cost. From Penzance a drive of eleven miles brings us to Land's End, the most westerly point of the English coast. About a mile from the shore are the Longship Reefs, with a light-house 112 feet above the level of the sea. ROUTE No. 96. Bristol to Birmingham, via Gloucester, Cheltenham, and Worcester, by the Midland Railway. Time, 3 hrs. 10 min. Bristol, see Route No. 95. Gloucester is situated on the Severn, about 33 miles from Bristol, and 114 from LAND.] CHELTENHAM. London. It is the capital of its county, a cathedral city, and contains a population of 18,330. Hotels, Spread Eagle and Bell. The Cathedral is a fine cruciform building 426 feet long, the oldest parts of which are the Norman crypt and nave, built as early as 1089. The building is surmounted by a tower 225 feet high, which was not finished until 1518. There is a whispering gallery 75 feet long near the east window; the window itself is one of the largest in England, being 79 feet long and 35 feet broad. The choir is richly ornamented, and the stalls are equal to those at Windsor. Among the principal monuments are those to Edward II., Robert, Duke of Normandy, Bishop Warburton, and Dr. Jenner, the discoverer of vaccination. Among the other principal buildings are the Palace, built in 1862; the Town-hall, County Jail, Infirmary, and numerous churches. In St. Mary's Square Bishop Hooper suffered martyrdom at the stake. Cheltenhamn, one of the most fashionable watering-places of England, is situated on the River Chelt, about seven miles from Gloucester. Population 44,519. Hotels, Queen's, Lansdowne, and Plow. The town lies in a fertile valley, protected from cold winds by the Cotswold Hills, and is a clean and well-built place. The springs, which are chalybeate and cathartic, were first discovered in 1715. The chief spas are the Montpellier, where a band plays morning and evening; the Pitville, whose Pump-room was built in 1824, with a Grecian portico and dome; and the Cambray Chalybeate Spa. The spa of the Royal Old Wells, once so famous, has been converted into a theatre, and the road leading to it is a fine elm avenue, which forms the principal promenade for visitors. Cheltenham is the second healthiest place in England. The season lasts from May to October, although in July and August the heat is intense. For Worcester, sec Route No. 94, and Birmingham, see Route No. 85. 273 LEOMINSTER, [ENGLAND.] LUDLOW. of Henry I., part of which is now incorpoROUTE No. 97. rated in the Union Workhouse. LeominBristol to Chester and Liverpool, via Glou- ster contains the usual public buildings of cester, Hereford, Shrewsbury, and Chcster, a borough town. by rail. Time, 7 hrs. 38 min. Ludlow, standing on the River Teme,conBristol and Gloucester, see Route No. 96. tains a population of 6033. Hotel, Angel. On our way to Hereford we pass through It is chiefly noted for its old castle, of Ross, situated on the Wye, and sometimes which the only remains are the keep, 110 called the "Gate of the Wye." This is a feet high, the great hall, and a chapel of good starting-place for making excursions Norman architecture. This castle was built on this beautiful river. The church is a by a favorite knight of William the Confine building, with a spire built by Kyrle, queror, Roger Montgomery: to him the the celebrated "Man of Ross," who is bur- defense of the Welsh borders was intrustied here. Hotels, Royal and Swan. ed. King Henry VII. held his court here, Hereford is 49 miles by rail from Bristol. and his son Arthur was here married to Hotels, Green Dragon and City A rmns. Pop- Catharine of Aragon. Seven miles from ulation 18,355. Hereford was in former Ludlow is Wigmore, a charming spot, with times protected by a castle, built by King a ruined castle, built by the Norman kings. Harold, but its site is now occupied by the For Shrewsbury and Chester, see Route Nelson Column. Here De Spenser, Ed- No. 85, and Liverpool, see Route No. 84. ward I.'s favorite, was executed by the barons in 1322; and here, four years later, the king himself was deprived of his crown. The present Cathedral is the third erected on the same site, the first being founded by King Offa in the 9th century. The present building was begun in 1079, but not finished until 1535. In the libraiy is a curious Saxon map of the world; also Wycliffe's Bible. Continuing our route from Hereford, we ROUTE No. 98. pass Moreton Station, near which are two Bristol to Pembroke, via Newport, Cardif, oak trees called Adam and Eve. At the Swansea, and Caermarthen. Time, 7 hrs. opening of the line of railway, the former 10 min. of these was the only station-house: it was The Principality of Wales is situated in 65 feet in girth and 12 feet in diameter, and the western part of Great Britain, and is 15 persons were able to take refreshments bounded on the north by the Irish Sea, on at the same time in the interior. It was un- the west by St. George's Channel, on the fortunately blown down in 1848, but the re- south by the Bristol Channel, and on the maining tree has 62 feet in circumference east by the counties of Monmouth, Hereat a distance of two feet above the ground. ford, Shropshire, and Chester. It is divided On the summit of Sutton Walls, a hill to into 12 counties, and is 871 miles long by the northeast, the palace of Offa, King of 401 broad. Population 1,200,000. The Mercia, once stood-where Ethelbert, King country is mountainous, and is rich in metofEastAnglia,wastreacherouslymurdered, als, silver and copper being found in CaerA.D. 782, when he came by invitation to narvon, lead in Cardigan, and iron throughtreat of his espousal with the fair Elfrida. out the south of Wales. This country was On the summit the remains of a spacious probably first populated by a colony of Roman encampment, including about 30 Gallo-Kymris, whence its ancient name of acres, are now discernible. Cambria was derived. During the time Leominster, situated on the Rivers Lug, of the Romans several efforts were made Arrow, and Pinsley, contains 5865 inhab- to subdue the country, and the northern itants. A monastery was founded here in portion was occupied by them for a short the 7th century by Merewald, King of West time. After their departure from Great Mercia; this was destroyed by the Danes, Britain in 411, the Cambrians formed and another established during the reign themselves into a sort of federative mon274 NEWPORT. [ENGLAN D.] CtEPSTOW. archy, and in times of danger were united Victoria Hall, which includes the Coununder a single chief called Pendragon. ty Court and Assembly Rooms, and the They successively repulsed the attacks of Church of St. Woollos, whose position comthe Anglo-Saxons, the Danes, and the Nor- mands an extensive view. Two steammans, but were finally conquered by Ed- packets sail daily between Newport and ward I. in 1283, who gave the title of Prince Bristol. An excursion may be made from of Wales to his son Edward II., since which Newport to time the eldest sons of the sovereigns of Chepstow, situated near the mouth of the England have borne the same name. River Wye, 17 miles distant from Bristol. The traveler, arriving at Liverpool, and It has a large trade in coal, iron, and timwishing to make a hasty tour through the ber. Hotel, Beaufrt A rms-strong comprincipal portions of North Wales to wit- plaints made. The chief object of interest ness its glorious scenery, its picturesque is the castle, which stands on a high cliff ruins, its mountains, valleys, and water- overhanging the Wye. Portions of this falls, as well as some of the mechanical building were erected 800 years ago by wonders of the world, such as Stephenson's William Fitz-Osborne, Earlof Hereford. It tubular bridges over the Menai Straits and is now almost entirely in ruins, and covat Conway, should visit first Chester via ered with ivy. Henry Martin, one of the Birkenhead; then, by the Holyhead Rail- regicides, was confined here for upward of way, to Bangor, Caernarvon, Barmouth, twenty years. An excursion should be Dolgelly, returning to the main line for made to the ruins of Tintern Abbey, four London through some magnificent scenery miles from Chepstow. This monastery via Bala, Corwen, and Llangollen, to the was founded in 1131 by Walter de Clare, junction RhuaLon; then, via Shrewsbury, and at the dissolution was granted to the Birmingham, Warwick, Leamington, and Earl of Worcester, ancestor of the Duke Oxford, to London, or, continuing along of Beaufort, its present possessor. The the co. st, to Aberystwith; then to Llanid- ruins are covered with ivy, and present a loes, Builth, Hereford, Gloucester, and most picturesque appearance. An excurReading, to London, or from Aberystwith sion should also be made to Wyndcliffe, to Caermarthen; then to Pembroke and from which a glorious view may be obthe lovelywatering-place ofTenby, whence tained. there is constant steam communication to Fifteen miles from Chepstow we reach Pristol; or returning by rail via the Great Monmouth, situated at the confluence of Western line (which develops the most the Monnon and the Wye. Hotels, Beaubeautiful and picturesque scenery of South fort Arnms and King's Head. The castle Wal's) through Swansea, Merthyr (by of Monmouth is very ancient, having been night), Cardiff, Newport, Monmouth, Glou. built in Saxon times. It was the place of cester, Bristol, Bath, and Reading, to Lon- residence of Henry IV.; and here, in 1387, don. Henry V. was born, Shakspeare's immorLeaving Bristol by rail, we reach in 45 tal Prince Hal. The room in which he minutes the New Passage, and cross by was born is still shown, and the great hall steamer to Portskewet in 50 minutes. beside it. The walls of the castle are from Twenty minutes atvain by rail brings us to six to ten feet thick. One mile from MonNewport, a flourishing seaport of Mon- mouth is Troy House, belonging to the mouthshire, situated at the mouth of the Duke of Beaufort. Here are shown the Usk, and chiefly employed in the export cradle of Henry V., and the armor which of coal and iron. Notice the Alexandra he wore at the battle of Agincourt. Docks, begun in 1868, in addition to others Cardiff is about 21 miles from Merthyr, already here. Population 23,249. Hotels, and contains a population of 32,954. HoKings' Head and West Gate. Newport tels, Cardiff Arms and Angel. Cardiff is Castle was apparently built for the defensesituated at the mouth of the River Taff of the River Usk, which is commanded by and is the great outlet for the coal and iron three strong towers. Just outside the of the surrounding districts: the exports town is a fine stone bridge of five arches, amount to three million pounds a year. which was erected at a cost of over ~10,000. The town is the creation of the Bute famAmong the principal buildings notice the ily, whose present representative, the Mar276 SWANSEA. [ENGLAND.] PEnMBROKHE. quis of Bute, is one of the richest noblemen in the kingdom, possessing an income of ~300,000. Cardiff Castle was founded in the 11th century by a Norman baron: an octagonal keep 75 feet high is still entire. In this castle Robert Curthose, brother of Henry I., died in 1133, having been blinded and imprisoned there for life by the king. Cardiff is the dpo6t of the anthracite coal used by the navy. Swansea is situated on a bay of the same name, called, for its beauty, "the Bay of Naples in miniature." It is a place of 41,606 inhabitants, and is chiefly renowned for the enormous copper-works in the vicinity. Although copper is not found in the neighborhood, it is brought here to be fluxed on account of the atlundance of coal. There are eight extensive works situated on the River Towy and the seaside; in one of these from 500 to 600 men are employed. The earliest was established in 1720. Copper is brought not only from Cornwall, but from America and Australia, and 20,000 tons on an average are smelted here yearly. Swansea is one of the most considerable sea-ports of Wales: a good harbor was made by running out two piers, one 1800 feet long, into the bay; this, however, is dry at low water, in consequence of which floating docks have been constructed. Swansea Castle was built by Henry de Beaumont in 1099: a large quadrangular tower is all that now remains of the building, and it is used for a poorhouse and jail. There are several fine buildings in the town; among others, the Royal Institution of South Wales, a building one hundred feet long, with a portico and Ionic columns; a theatre, assemblyrooms, and Mechanics' Institute. The very things that add to the prosperity of Swansea in one way detract from it in another, as before the establishment of the copper works it was a favorite watering -place. Now, however, in certain states of wind, the fumes of the copper are thrown over the town, and destroy the freshness of the surrounding scenery. The principal hotels in Swansea are the Mackworth Arms and Castle. Fine sea-bathing may be had at The Mumbles, six miles westward, on the lower peninsula. This is a rugged tract of land lying between Swansea and Caermarthen Bays. It is traversed by a ridge of red sandstone, which at Cwm 276 Bryn is 584 feet high, surmounted by at huge cromlech, called Arthur's Stone. l he peninsula is inhabited by a colonv of Flemings, who settled here during the reign of Henry I. These people do not speak the Welsh language, and have but little intercourse with them, differing even in their dress. Mumbles' Head is on the southeast side of the peninsula, and Worm's Head at the western extremity. The latter derives its name from the shape of the cliffs, which run out into the sea for three quarters of a mile, and resemble the head of a sea-serpent. The extremity is from 200 to 300 feet high, under which there is a vast cave. A regatta is held yearly in Swansea Bay. The distance from Swansea to London by the Great Western Railway is 216 miles. The town of Pembroke derives its name from the Welsh words pen fro, or head of the peninsula. It is situated on a long point of land projecting into a creek of Milford Haven. Population 15,571. Hotels, Dragon and Lion. On an eminence of the town stand the ruins of a Norman castle, begun in 1092 by Arnulph de Montgomery. Here the Earl of Richmond, afterward Henry VII., was born, and from here he marched to gain his crown on Bosworth Field. Under the chapel is an enormous cavern called the Wogan, which opens toward the sea. The keep is in good preservation, and is 75 feet high. The visitor should by all means visit Milford Haven. This is generally done in a boat from Pembroke. The harbor is considered one of the finest in the world, and is capable of containing the entire English navy. The entrance to the haven is exceedingly fine, and the water within is as smooth as that of a lake. Four miles from Pembroke stands Caren Castle, built during the reign of Henry I. by the ancestor of the Fitzgeralds. This is one of the finest old ruins in Wales, and was formerly one of the royal demesnes of the Welsh princes. It contains two great halls well worthy of notice, one 100 feet in length, the other 80 feet. Tenby, a fashionable watering-place ten miles from Pembroke, contains a population of 2982. Hotels, Gate House and White Lion. Tenby is situated on a rocky peninsula which stretches into the Bristol Channel; the houses are well built, the CA RMSARTIHEN. [ENGLAND.] MERTIIYR TYDVIL. beach is very fine, the water clear and excellent for bathing, the surrounding scenery and excursions are delightful; in fact, every thing combines to make it a charming place of summer resort. There are here the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been erected by the Flemings, and the ancient walls which surrounded the town itself are in many places entire. The church, a fine old building, with a spire 152 feet high, dates back as early as 1250. Tenby is a great place for naturalists; of the six hundred varieties of shells contained in the British collections, not less than one half were found here. Excursions should be made to Caldy, St. Catharine's, and St. Margaret's Islands. The last is famed for its magnificent caverns and for the ruins of a monastic cell; it is reached by crossing the ledges of rock when the tide is out. HIorse-races take place at Tenby in August or September, accompanied, as usual, by balls; a fine band plays every day during the season. There are also a small theatre, assemblyrooms, a library and reading-room, a literary and scientific institution, and a bowling-green and cricket-ground. Boat-races occasionally take place in the bay. There is constant steam communication between Tenby and Bristol, a distance of 108 miles, the time occupied being about ten hours. Caermarthen, the capital of its county, and one of the principal towns of Wales, is situated on the River Towy, and contains 9993 inhabitants. Hotels, Ivy Bush and Boar's HIead. The former was the property of Sir Richard Steele, whose comedy, "The Conscious Lovers," was written in the neighborhood of the town. Caermarthen occupies the site of the Roman station Maridunum. It contains a fine town-hall, a market-house, a grammarschool, a Presbyterian college, etc. Near the old Guildhall is a column to Sir T. Picton, who represented the borough in Parliament. A considerable foreign and coasting trade is carried on by the inhabitants, there being a good harbor about three miles from the town. ROUTE No. 99. Swansea to Chester, via Merthyr Tydvil, Brecon, Builth, Llanidloes, Oswestry, and Rhuabon, by rail. Time, 9 hrs. 10 min. Swansea, see Route No. 98. Merthyr Tydvil, signifying Martyr Tydvil, derives its name from St.Tudfyl, daugh. ter of a Welsh chief, who suffered martyrdom for her religion during the early ages of the Church. The town is situated at the head of the Vale of Taff, and contains 83,875 inhabitants. The surrounding country is celebrated for its thick and rich veins of coal, and in the town itself nothing but blast-furnaces, rolling-mills, and forges are seen in every direction. The iron-works are fifty in number; each furnace is about 55 feet high, contains 5000 cubic feet. and is capable of smelting 100 tons of pig-iron weekly. In the largest works, belonging to Lady Guest and Messrs. Crawshay, from 3000 to 5000 hands are employed. Merthyr should by all means be visited at night, when the red glare of the furnaces lights up the place, and produces a striking effect; in the daytime the town is gloomy. Hotels, Castle and Bush. The direct road from Merthyr to Brecon leads through a mountain pass, with the Brecknockshire Beacons on one side, 2862 feet high, and on the other Mount Capellante, 2394 feet high. The distance is about 18 miles. Brecon is situated at the confluence of the Usk and Honddu, in the midst of most beautiful and romantic scenery. Hotels, Castle and Swan. Population 5639. The castle was founded by Newmarch, a Norman baron; nothing now remains but the keep, called " Ely Tower," so named from Dr. Morton, bishop of Ely, who was imprisoned here by order of Richard III. It was also the scene of the conference between the bishop and the Duke of Buckingham. The other principal buildings are the County Hall, Market-house, Assize Courts, three churches, theatre, etc. Sir David Gon, Shakspeare's Fluellen, resided in this neighborhood. He was knighted by Henry V. at Agincourt while at the point of death, having sacrificed his life to save the king. The " Shoulder of Mutton" Inn at Brecon is pointed out as the birthplace of Mrs. Siddons. From Brecon to Hay the distance is about 15 miles. Hay stands on the borders of the three 277 OSWESTRY. [ENGLAND.] RHUABON JUNCTION. counties of Brecon, Hereford, and Radnor, his territory. Having been a great beneand is the highest point to which barges factor to different monasteries, he was canascend in the Upper Wye. It is an old onized after his death, and a well erected Norman town, founded by Bernard New- to his memory still remains near the march. The castle was destroyed by Owen church. The latter building occupies the Glendower, and now stands in ruins. Clif- site of a former monastery, and is a venerford Castle, three miles from Hay, was able-looking pile, of which the tower is built by Fitz-Osborne, a kinsman of Wil- the oldest part; the restoration of this liam the Conqueror. Here fair Rosamond church was begun in 1872. Old Oswestry, Clifford was born. or Caer Ogyrfan, the name given to a fine Travelers may continue from Hay to British post, lies alout one mile to the Hereford (12' miles), thence to London via north. It is defended by a triple rampart Gloucester and Reading. unusually high, with entrances to the north Builth is delightfully situated on the and south; the total area covered by Wye, which is here crossed by a bridge these fortifications is between sixty and of six arches, uniting the counties of seventy acres. West of the park of PorkBrecon and Radnor. The town stands ington, the seat of W. Ormsby Gore, Esq., in an open part of the valley, but is entire- is another intrenchment, circular in form, ly surrounded by lofty hills. Hotel, L/n. and surrounded by a dike. This is called Population 1158. The principal object of Castell Brogyntyn, and is believed to have interest at Builth is the castle, which ap- been erected by a natural son of Owen pears to have been erected before the Con- Madoc, Prince of Powis. Oswestry posquest. It was originally a place of great sesses, in addition to these antiquities, a strength, and is well known as having been fine town-hall, a grammar-school, founded the last retreat of the famous Llewellyn. in the reign of Henry IV., a literary inLlewellvn was the last of the Welch princes stitute, a theatre, and a House of Industry. who held regal power, and when hemmed Population 9000. in by the troops of Edward I., he demand- Rhuabon Junction is a small village, ed assistance of the Welsh garrison at Bu- which chiefly derives its importance from ilth castle; all aid was refused. While re- the proximity of numerous iron-works and treating up the Ithon he was surprised collieries. Wynnstay, the seat of Sir Watand killed, and from that day the inhab- kin W. Wynn, Bart., also lies in the neighitants have been called Bradwyr Buallt, or borhood; the park, eight miles in circumtraitors of Builth. The medicinal springs ference, is said to be the largest in Wales. of Builth are at Park Wells, about a mile Within its limits stands a column 101 feet from the town, where a pump-room has high, erected to the memory of the father been erected. The springs are three in of the present baronet by his mother. number, and of different properties-sa- The owners are the descendants of Sir line, sulphurous, and chalybeate. William Williams, Speaker of the House Llanidloes is a small town situated at of Commons during the reign of Charles the confluence of the Clywedog and Severn II., and afterward solicitor-general during Rivers;and contains a population of 3127. the trial of the seven bishops. The house, Hotel, Trewythen Arms. Excursions may part of which dates from the 15th centbe made from here to the source of the ury, was unfortunately destroyed by fire Rheidol, on the edge of Plinlimmon. in 1858; the present building is in the ReThe roadfrom Llanidloes to Aberystwith, naissance style, and contains some intervia Devil's Bridge, a distance of twenty esting family portraits by Van Dyck, Sir miles across the Welsh Alps, is both wild Joshua Reynolds, and Kneller. In former and romantic. times Wynnstay was the residence of the Oswestry, although situated within the Lord of Bromfield and Yale, Madoc ap Gruborders of Shropshire, has much the char- fydd Maelor; it came into the possession of acter and appearance of a Welsh town. It the Wynns in 1670, andin that of the present derives its name from Oswald, King of family, who are distinguished for having Northumberland, who was slain here in many times declined the peerage, in the 642, in battle with the King of Mercia, beginning ofthe last century. The church whom he was endeavoring to dispossess of near the park gates is filled with intereet278 CAERNARVON. l EN(GlAND.] BARMOUTtI. ing monuments of the Wynn family, of 1284 and 1320, and covers two acres and a which the most noticeable is an altar tomb half. The external walls are from eight near the communion table, with two re- to ten feet in thickness, and are guarded cumbent figures representing an armed by thirteen towers, one of which now forms knight and lady of the Eyton family, the town prison. In the Eagle Tower Ed1526, dressed in the style of Henry VII. ward II., the first Prince of Wales, is said Gardden is the name given to another en- to have been born. campment, defended by concentric dikes, The ascent of Mount Snowdon should which is situated on a hill three quarters be made from Caernarvon. For the shortof a mile to the left of Rhuabon. est and easiest route, go to Llanberis from lVrexham is the last place of importance Caernarvon by rail, eight miles, and then passed before reaching Chester. This is on foot to the sumnmit, five miles; or, m;ikan ancient town, mentioned by the Saxon ing the ascent from Beddgelert (13 miles chroniclers as Wrightelsham: it contains from Caernarvon), the scenery is exceedone of the finest churches in Wales, in the ingly fine, though the distance to the sumPerpendicular style, built in 1470, with a mit is greater (six miles and a half), and tower 135 feet in height, which was corn- the ascent somewhat steeper. The Capel pleted after the church-about 1500. In Curig route is the longest and most fathe northern aisle is a fine monument to tiguing, but the scenery is truly magnifithe memory of Mrs. Mary Myddleton, of cent. Snowdon rises 3571 feet above the Chirk Castle, by Roubiliac, representing level of the sea: the summit is surrounded a female starting from the tomb at the by a low wall, and is five or six yards in sound of the last trumpet. In the church- diameter. In fine weather, the Isle of Man yard are some curious epitaphs, of which and parts of England, Scotland, and Irewe give the following example: land, may be clearly seen. Descending by u Born in America, in Europe bred, wayof Beddgelert, PontAberglaslyn should In Africa traveled, in Asia wed, be visited. This is a single stone arch Where long he lived and thrived; at London thrown over a rapid mountain torrent which divides the counties of Merioneth The church-tower has a peal of ten bells, and Caernarvon; the surrounding scenery cast by Rudhall in 1726. is exceedingly wild and picturesque. Wrexham is now chiefly famous for its We next proceed to B irmouth, whose ale. Population 8000. chief attraction is its vicinity to the beauChester, see Route No. 85. tiful Vale of Manddach, said to be superior to any in Wales. Population 1672. Hotels, Corsygedol Arms and Royal. The houses of Barmouth present a peculiar appearance, rising in tiers one above another on the sides of the mountains, and are approached by steps cut in the rock. The rides in the neighborhood are very fine, and the streams afford abundant sport to the angler. The ride from Barmouth to Do 'gelly is one of the most beauROUTE No. 100. tiful. The town is picturesquely situBangor to Chester, via Caernarvon, Bar- ated at the foot of the celebrated Cader mouth, Dolgelly,Bala, Corwen, and Rhuabon, Idris, the second highest mountain in by rail. Time, 7 hours. Wales, and is a lovely spot; also a conveCaernarvon. Population 8512. Hotels, nient centre for numerous excursions, viz., Royal Sportsman and Castle. Caernarvon the ascent of Cader Idris, Machynlleth, occupies the site of a Roman town called the waterfalls, etc. Many Roman coins Segontium, the only station possessed by and other antiquities have been found in the Romans in this part of Cambria. Frag- the neighborhood of the town. Populaments of the ancient walls may still be tion 2217. Hotel, Golden Lion. Bala is seen. The castle is the principal object of 1Smiles distant from Dolgelly, beautifully interest; it was built between the years situated at the foot of Bala Lake. Through 279 LLANGOLLEN. [ENGLAND.] ABERYSTWITH. this lake, which is about four miles in length, the River Dee takes its course, rising five miles distant in Arran Fowddy, the highest of the Berwyn Mountains. The famous waterfall of Pistyll Rhaiadyr is one of the sights of the neighborhood. This is one of the head springs of the Yanat, and falls from a height of 140 feet, then runs through a rock, and falls again a distance of 70 feet: the surrounding scenery is wild and beautiful. Continuing our route we reach Corwen, a neat little town situated at the foot of the Berwyn Mountains. Notice the church, a quaint old building in the form of a cross, and in the church-yard an old stone pillar called Glyndwr's Sword. The citadel of the Druids, where Caractacus effected his retreat after the battle of Caer Caradock, is just beyond Corwen. Ten miles farther we reach Llangollen. Hotels, the Hand and Royal. Population 5799. The Vale of Llangollen is celebrated for its beauty, though hardly equal to the Vale of the Cross at its upper end. It is surrounded by hills, in which limestone, coal, and slate are quarried. On one of these stand the ruins of an ancient Welsh fortress, called Caer Dinas Bran, almost inaccessible from the steepness of the mountain. The River Dee is here crossed by a four-arched Gothic bridge, dating from the fourteenth century. Farther down the river is the Aqueduct Pont-y-Cysylltan, which carries the Ellesmere Canal over the valley. This was constructed by Mr. Telford in 1805, and consists of 19 stone arches, which support an iron trough 1007 feet in length. In the Valley of the Cross, a little above Llangollen, are the beautiful remains of Valle Crucis Abbey, founded in 1200. The ruins are covered with ivy, and present a very picturesque appearance. Near the ruins is Elliseg's Pillar, still more ancient, erected by Concenn in memory of Elliseg, who died fighting the Saxons in 607. Rhuabon Junction is but a short distance from Llangollen. Though a place containing 14,000 inhabitants, it has little to arrest the attention of the traveler, who may here rejoin the main line and proceed to London via Shrewsbury, Birmingham, Warwick, Leamington, and Oxford, all of which are described elsewhere. Rhuabon, see Route No. 99, and Chester, see Route No. 85. 280 ROUTE No. 101. A berystwith to Caermarthen, via Lampeter, by rail. Time, 4 hrs. 10 min. A berystwith, one of the principal towns in the county of Cardigan, is situated near the junction of the Ystwith and the Rheidol. Hotels, Queen's and Bellevue. Population 7000. Abervstwith is one of the most agreeable and salutary watering-places of Wales, being protected from the north and east winds by the Craig-lais mountain range. It is a pretty and attractive town, containing assembly rooms, two churches, a library, theatre, baths, etc. The Marine Terrace, which follows the curve of Cardigan Bay and overlooks the beach, is a favorite promenade for visitors, and commands a most glorious view. At each end are heights laid out in public walks, and on one of them stand the ruins of a castle. This building was first erected by Gilbert de Stronghow in 1109. It was the stronghold of Cadwal lader, and was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd. Having been rebuilt by Edward I. in 1127, it was finally destroyed by Cromwell. Near the town is a chalybeate spring, whose waters resemble those of Tunbridge Wells. The season extends from June to Octo. ber. Races are held in August or September, when fine balls are also given; there is every thing, in fact, to please and attract the visitor. One of the most amusing occupations is searching on the beach for carnelians, agates, jaspers, etc., which are found in great numbers; lapidaries are also at hand to cut them in any form. Among the many pleasant excursions to be made from Aberystwith is that to the Devil's Bridge, about twelve miles distant. The road to this bridge gradually ascends to a height of 930 feet above the level of the sea, and commands a most beautiful view of the valley of the Rheidol stretching out below, crossed by its winding river. The bridge is formed by two arches, one above another, thrown over a deep cleft in the rocks, through which the River Mynach descends in terrific cascades. The lower arch is believed to have been built during the reign of William Rufus by the monks of Strata-Florida Abbey; the upper arch was constructed in 1753. The Devil's Bridge Hotel stands at the head of the valley, near the falls. LAMPETER. [ENGLAND.] LLANDOVERY. Continuing our route from Aberystwith, we reachA berayron, a thriving market-town and sea-port, which has lately become somewhat frequented as a bathing-place. It lies at the mouth of the Ayron, a small stream only 12 miles in length, which is famed for the excellence of its trout and salmon. It has two piers, recently constructed; also a town-hall and markethouse. The remains of a circular camp, attributed to Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, A.D. 1148, are to be seen on the coast a short distance north of the town. Lzampeter (Hotel, Black Lion) is situated on the banks of the Teifi, one of the most celebrated fishing rivers in Wales. It contains a town-hall, parish church, and several schools and chapels; but the principal o'ject of interest is St. David's College, opened in 1827, for the education of young men intending to enter the Church, who are unable to meet the expenses of a university education at Cambridge or Oxford. This building originated with Dr. Burgess, former Bishop of St. David's, and was erected at a cost of $100,000, $480,000 of which was given by the government near the time of its completion, and $5000 by King George IV. Near the town the Teifi is crossed by a bridge said to have been erected in the time of King Stephen, which has given the name of Lampeter Pont Stephen to the town: this, however, is only seen in public documents. Caermarthen, see Route No. 98. Distances: to London, 244 miles; to Bristol by steamer, 138 miles; to Aberystwith, 52 miles; to Pembroke,43 miles; and to Swansea, 26 miles. ROUTE No. 102. Swansea to Shrewsbury, via Llandovery and Craven Arms, by rail. Time, 6 hrs. 54 min. Swansea, see Route No. 98. Llandilofawr is one of the first stations of importance passed on this route. The town is principally situated on the west bank of the River Towy, which is noted for the excellence of its salmon, trout, and eels. In the neighborhood stand the ruins of Dynevor Castle, and Newton Park, the seat of Lord Dynevor, one of the finest estates in Wales. We next reach Llandorery, believed to have been a Roman station from the number of coins and other antiquities found in the vicinity. Population 1927. This town is situated on the River Bran, near its junction with the Towy, and this situation, together with the proximity of other small streams, is an explanation of the name Llandovery,which is a corruption of the Welsh Llan-ym-Ddyfri, signifying Church among the Waters. The absence of all manufactures renders this a very quiet place: there is a fine collegiate building called the Welsh Educational Institution, founded and endowed by Thomas Philips, Esq. Hotels, Castle and Clarence. Population 1927. The ruins of an ancient castle stand at a short distance from the town, but little can be related with certainty either as to its origin or history. Kn;ghton, situated on the River Teme, derives its Welsh name of Tref-y-Clawdd, or Tower upon the Dike, to the proximity of Offa's Dike. Near the town are two Roman encampments, one of which is said to be that of the Roman commander Ostorius. From Knighton a ride of thirty minutes brings us to Craven Arms, where we join the Shrewsbury and Hereford Railway (see Route No. 97). VOL. I.-N 281 ABERGAVENNY. [ENGLAND.] ODIHAAr. ROUTE No. 103. Newport (Wales) to Hereford, via Pontypool and Abergavenny, by rail. Time, 2 hrs. 5 min. Newport, see Route No. 98. Pontypool is reached in half an hour from Newport, after passing through several unimportant stations. This town is situated in the populous manufacturing and mining district of Trevethin, and contains 3708 inhabitants. Tin and iron are extensively manufactured throughout this parish, and so extensively have the sources of employment increased since the introduction of these manufactures that the number of inhabitants, which in 1802 was only 1472, had risen in 1851 to 16,864. This place was also formerly celebrated for its manufacture of japanned ware, which was invented here during the reign of Charles II., and sold under the name of Pontypool ware. A bergarenny, situated at the junction of the Gavenny with the River Usk,which is here spanned by a fine stone bridge of fifteen arches, contains 5506 inhabitants. It is surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, of which the highest are the Sugarloaf, 1852 feet; the Blounge, 1721 feet; and Skirrid-fawr, 1498 feet. Abergavenny is the supposed site of the Gobannium of the Romans, and was formerly a walled town protected by a castle, built soon after the Norman conquest. The ruins of this building are still visible, as well as those of a Benedictine monastery. The present town consists of three main streets, which form thoroughfares to Monmouth, Brecon, and Hereford. It is a flourishing place, with large markets and thriving tradesmen, although no extensive manufactures (unless we except that of shoes) are carried on; this prosperity is chiefly owing to the vicinity of extensive coal and iron works. At one time periwigs, made of goats' hair, were extensively fabricated here: being so valuable as to sell for $150 to $200 each; but this is now discontinued, as well as the manufacture of Welsh flannel, for which Abergavenny was once noted. This town gives the title of Earl to the Nevill family. Hotels, Angel and King's Head. Ten miles distant from Abergavenny stand the ruins of Llanthony Abbey, once a celebrated Cistercian priory, built from 1108 to 1115, but abandoned for Glource t I r 282 in 1136. It is situated in the wild valley of Ewias, which projects into the heart of the Black Mountains: its name of Llanthony being a corruption from Llandewi Nant Hondeni, or the Church of St. David in the valley of the Black Water. The conventual church is now the principal remains, but is found to be quite destitute of ornament; part of the priory has also been converted into an inn. Hereford, see Route No. 97. ROUTE No. 104. London to Basingstoke, Salisbury, and Exeter, by rail, from Waterloo. At Winchfield, eight miles before reaching Basingstoke, the train passes through a tunnel eighty yards in length. Odihama, the birthplace of Lilly, the grammarian, lies three miles south of Winchfield. Near Odiham stand the ruins of an old castle in which David, King of Scotland, was confined after his capture at Neville's Cross, and where he passed eleven long years in imprisonment. The line next crosses the valley of the Loddon on an embankment, and passes through the village of Old Basing, where a battle was fought in 871 between the Danes and Saxons, ending in the defeat of the latter. Basingstoke, mentioned in Domesday Book as Basingtoches, is forty-eight miles distant from London, and contains 4654 inhabitants. The corntrade and malting form its principal business. Salisbury, the capital of Wiltshire, situated at the confluence of the Avon,Willey, and Bourne, contains 12,278 inhabitants. It is 96 miles from London by the South Western Railway. Hotels, White Hart and Red Lion. The Cathedral of Salisbury is a magnificent edifice erected in the 13th century; it is in the form of a double cross, and its outside length measures 480 feet. lit is surmounted by a beautiful steeple, i hich rises to a height of 400 feet above SALISBURY. [ENGLAND.] AMESBURY. the ground. The number of windows in the cathedral is said to equal that of the days in the year, and concerning them the following rhyme, attributed to Daniel Rogers, has been written: "As many days as in one year there be, So many windows in this church you see; As many marble pillars here appear As there are hours through the fleeting year As many gates as moons one here does viewStrange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true." Among the windows, notice the upper eastern one, which represents the " Brazen Serpent," by Mortimer. The cathedral is rich in monuments, some dating back as early as the 11th century, and transferred here from the old cathedral. Among the other public buildings may be noticed Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School, where Addison was educated; the Assembly Rooms, Theatre, and the Council-chamber, erected in 1795 at the expense of the second Earl of Radnor. There are also two museums in Salisbury, the Salisbury and South Wilts Museum and the Blackmore Museum. The former, situated in St. Ann's Street, is open to the public daily from two to five, Saturdays excepted. The collection is arranged in three rooms, and consists, 1st, of objects illustrative of natural history in the neighborhood of Salisbury; 2d, of archaeological specimens; and, 3d, of geological specimens. The Blackmore Museum, open on the same days and hours, was founded by W. Blackmore, of Liverpool, and is supported entirely at his expense. It is divided into four parts or groups: 1. Remains of animals fcund associated with the works of prehistoric muan. 2. Stone implements. 3. Bronze implements. 4. Implements, ornaments, and weapons of modern savages which may serve to throw light upon the use of similar objects belonging to prehistoric times. About three miles from Salisbury is Longford Castle, the seat of the present earl, which contains a valuable collection of paintings. In Salisbury Plain, about nine miles from the city, is situated the famous monument of Stonehenge, considered the greatest wonder in the west of England. A carriage may be procured for this excursion, the cost with one horse there and back being 10s. 6d., and with two 21s.; if the excursion be extended to Wilton, two miles farther, two additional shillings are demanded. Old Sarum, once one of the most important cities in the island of Great Britain, now a bare hill surrounded by intrenchments, is passed on this route. The Roman name of this place was Sorbiodunum. Near the summit of the hill, the face of which is smooth and very steep, is an immense earthern ralpart and ditch, 106 feet in height, measuring from the bottom of one to the top of the other. The circular area inclosed within this rampart is about 27 acres; in the centre is an interior earthwork and ditch, 100 feet in height, within which the citadel stood. On top of this second earthwork was a strong w.ll of flint and rubble, with a coating of square stones; the whole twelve feet thick. There were two entrances to the exterior ramparts, one of which,the western,was guarded by a hornwork which is still in existence. These intrenchments are not generally believed to be either British or Roman work, for when the hill was in possession of the Romans it was defended by a simple escarpment; the citadel and its defenses were probably erected by the Saxons under King Alfred, who did all in his power to strengthen his kingdom against the incursions of the Danes. A mesbwuy, prettily situated in the valley of the Upper Avon, is a place of considerable antiquity, believed to have derived its name from Aurelius Ambrosius, British king during the 6th century. A Benedictine nunnery was founded here by Queen Elfiidla in 980, as an expiation for the murder of her step-son. During the reign of Henry II., this nunnery was given to the great convent of Fontevrault and Anjou, and from that time greatly increased in splendor and riches. It became a favorite retreat of ladies of royal and noble birth: Mary, sixth daughter of Edward I., took the veil here in company with thirteen noble ladies; Queen Eleanor died here in 1292, and Catharine of Aragon was lodged here in 1501 upon first arriving in England. Amcsbury is also mentioned in legendary history as the scene of Queen Guinevere's retirement after her flight from King Arthur's court and the dissolution of the Rtound Table. 283 STONEIIENGE. [ENGLAND.] STONEIIUENG B. This monastery was granted to the Earl of square, roughly hewn blocks, most clevof Hertford at the Dissolution, and his resi- erly joined at a height of sixteen feet from dence was erected from portions of the old the ground. Within this was an inner convent buildings. It became successively circle composed of about forty unhewn the property of the families of Ailesbury, syenite obelisks, four feet in height, reBoyle, and Queensbury, by marriage, sale, sembling many stone monuments found and inheritance, and was finally bought in in different parts of Wales. The great 1824 by Sir Edmund Antrobus. This was ellipse within this inner circle formerly at one time the retreat of Gay, who while consisted of five or seven trilithons-a here composed the "Beggars' Opera." The name given to triplets of stones placed grounds of the house, through which the two upright and one across. These triliAvon flows, are most beautiful. The in- thons increased in height from the northterior commands a view of a densely east to the southwest, the largest being wooded hill, whose summit is crowned about twenty-five feet in height. Within by a British work commonly known as the trilithons was an inner ellipse of ninethe ramparts. The church of Amesbury, teen syenite obelisks, resembling those of believed to be that of the abbey, was re- the inner circle. Within these was placed paired in 1852; it is a cruciform build- the altar stone. This stone still remains ing, 128 feet in length, in the Early En- in its former position, but the present apglish style with a low square tower in the pearance of Stonehenge differs vastly from centre. the description here given. Many of the Stonehenge, two miles from Amesbury, is stones have been overthrown, others have situated in the centre of Salisbury Plain. disappeared, and the whole is overgrown Antiquaries differ greatly concerning the with moss and weeds. The first impression object of this curious structure; it has been received by the traveler is generally one attributed to the Druids, the Danes, and of disappointment, which, however, disapthe Romans by different parties. When pears after an inspection of the ruins. We in a perfect state it consisted of two cir- next proceed to Wilton, a small town of cles and two ellipses of upright stones, sur- great antiquity, once famous as the capital rounded by a bank and ditch. This was of the kingdom of Wessex. A monastery approached by an avenue, still easily traced was founded here by Wulstan, Earl of the by banks of earth; proceeding along which Wilseutas, A.D. 800, of which Wulstan's the traveler first reaches a solitary stone widow, Ethelburga, was the first prioress. sixteen feet high, now in a leaning posi- This monastery was refounded by King tion. This is called the Friar's Heel, from Alfred. and continued in existence until a legend according to which Stonehenge the Dissolution, when it was given to Sir was erected by the Evil Spirit, who was William Herbert, first Earl of Pembroke. watched during his operations by a holy The members of this family have long been friar; the Evil One, having exultingly re- distinguished as patrons of art and literamarked aloud that no one would be able to ture, as identified in the persons of Holknow how the thing was done, the monk bein, Shakspoare (who acted here with in hiding incautiously replied, "That's his troop in 1603 before James I.), Ben more than thee can tell," and then hasten- Jonson, Inigo Jones, Van Dyck, and MasId to make his escape. The enraged spirit singer. The present building (Wilton aught up a huge stone and flung it after Iouse) is for the most part modern; the he intruder, but only succeeded in strik- porch was designed by Holbein. It con-.g his heel. Certain it is that no ex- tains a fine collection of paintings, and lanation can be given for the isolated is renowned by its Van Dycks and mar-;osition of this stone. About forty yards bles. In the hall are numerous suits of rther, the site of the earthern bank and armor, trophies of the victory gained by Iitch which surrounds Stonehenge is reach- the Spaniards over the French at the bated, now only slightly marked. The outer tie of St. Quentin, in which a band of Enircle of stones just within this ring for- glish, sent by Queen Mary, took part under nerly consisted of thirty upright blocks, the command of William, Earl of Pern)laced three and a half feet apart, con- broke. Suits belonging to the Constable:ected at the top by a ring of stone formed Anne de Montmorency, the Duc de Mont284 TIV ERTON. [ENGLAND.] WINCHESTER. pensier, and Louis de Bourbon, are also to be seen here. The distance from Salisbury to Exeter is 874 miles. Exeter, see Route No. 95. ROUTE No. 105. Exeter to Barnstaple, via Eggsford, by rail. Time, 4 hrs. 50 min. Leaving Exeter on our route to Barnstaple from St. David's Station, we reach in seven miles Crediton, the birthplace of the Anglo-Saxon Winfred, well known as St. Boniface. This town was once famous for the manufacture of woolen goods, but shoes are now the principal objects of trade. Population 4048. Eggsford, the property of the Earl of Portsmouth, is 216 miles from Exeter. Barnstaple is a place of considerable antiquity, situated on the River Taw; it is the capital of North Devon, and formerly possessed a castle and priory, of which no remains are now to be seen. Hotels, Golden Lion and Fortescue Arms. The commerce of this place in early times was considerable, and its port occupied an important position as early as the reign of Edward III. Five ships were sent from here alone to repel the attack of the Spanish Armada. The sights of Barnstaple are few and uninteresting,and will hardly repay any lengthened stay in the town. Among the public buildings are the Church, Guildhall, Queen Anne's Walk-formerly intended for an Exchange-and a bridge dating from the 13th century. The poet Gay was born here, and the house occupied by him on the corner of Joy Street may still be seen. The railway continues from Barnstaple to Bideford, whence steamers run daily to Bristol. There is a fine bridge, 677 feet in length, which forms the principal promenade of the inhabitants, with a quay adjoining 1200 feet in length. The parish church was first erected in the 14th century, but, having become greatly dilapidated, was pulled down and rebuilt in 1862. In the church-yard are some curious epitaphs, from which we can not refrain quoting the following: ' HIere lies the body of Mary Sexton, Who pleased many a man, but never vexed one: Not like the woman who lies under the next stone." ROUTE No. 106. London to Dorchester and Weymouth, vI Basingstoke, Winchester, and Southamptoi by rail. Time, 6 hrs. 5 min. Basingstoke, see Route No. 104. Winchester is about 63 miles from Lon don. Population 14,776. Hotels, George and Black Swan. Winchester was the place of residence of the later Saxon kings, and occasionally of their successors dowr to Henry VIII. The Cathedral is of great antiquity. Here the Domesday Book was kept until transferred to Westminster; here, in 1554, Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain. The County Hall is also a place of great interest. It is 110 feet long, and contains a curious relic, as ancient as the time of King Stephen, called A rthur'sRound Table. This table is 18 feet in diameter, and on it are the portraits of the king and his knights. Egbert of Wessex was here crowned king of all England, and Richard I. was also crowned here on his return from Austria. William of Wykeham's College is also worthy of notice, founded in 1339, the chapel, hall, and cloisters of which are very fine. The scholars are regularly transferred from here to New College, Oxford, founded by the same prelate. 285 SOUTHAMPTON. [ENGLAND.] DORCHESTER. From Winchester to Southampton the distance is about twelve miles. Southampton contains about 47,000 inhabitants. Principal hotels, Radley's and Southwestern. The fact is worth mentioning to American travelers that many different lines of steamers to America make this a stopping-place on their way to and from the Continent. Notice a beautiful military hospital, the foundation of which was laid by the queen in 1866. It is a quarter of a mile in length, and presents a beautiful facade. If you have time, returning from the Isle of Wight, or on your way there, we would advise making a visit to Netley Abbey, about three miles from Southampton. These ruins, with their picturesque situation, are as pretty as any thing on the island of Great Britain. An excursion might also be made to New Forest. At Stony Cross the Canterton Oak stood till 1745; a stone now marks the spot: it was from this oak that Sir Walter Tyrrell's arrow glanced which killed William Rufus. Steamers leave Southampton several times a day for Cowes and yRde in the Isle of Wight, also for Portsmouth. The London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway issue tourists' daily tickets during the summer season, also tourists' monthly tickets to all parts of the Isle of Wight. Wimborne is an ancient town of 2275 inhabitants, deriving its name from the Minster, a cruciform building, with a Norman tower at the intersection, and another of later date at the end of the nave. This was first founded as a nunnery in the year 700, by Cuthberga, sister of King Ina, but the nuns were replaced by secular canons in the time of Edward the Elder. A spire formerly rose from the central tower, but this fell in the year 1600, leaving only the base, which forms an open lantern of two stories within. Before the altar is a regal effigy, which marks the tomb of Ethelred, King of the West Saxons, A.D. 873, restored in 1680. Poole, the principal sea-port of Dorsetshire, is next reached. Population 6815. Hotels, London and Antelope. For many years the trade carried on by this town was principally with Newfoundland and the Mediterranean; but since the fall of Napoleon I. this business has gradually become 286 extinct, and the inhabitants are now chiefly engaged in the coasting trade. The exports are potters' clay and pitwood, and the imports timber, coal, and grain. Wareham is a neat, well-built town, with spacious streets, situated just above the junction of the Rivers Fromne and Piddle. A castle once stood above the former river, whose site is still known as the Castle Close. This is a place of great antiquity, and was well known in Saxon times, when it suffered from many a Danish invasion. The remains of a priory, founded by Aidhelm, Bishop of Sherborne, in 709, are still to be seen near St. Mary's Church. This church is the only one of eight churches once possessed by the town of Wareham, or rather it is the only one still used as a place of worship, there being two others, one used as a school and the other an ivy-covered ruin. In St. Mary's Church notice a curious leaden font of the 12th century, adorned with figures of the apostles; also St. Edward's Chapel, which reproduces the small wooden chapel in which the remains of Edward the Martyr were placed after his murder at Corfe. About half a mile from Wool Station lip the ruins of Bindon Abbey, embowered in trees and surrounded by running streams. The buildings of this priory, which was founded in 1172 for Cistercian monks by Roger de Newburgh and Matilda, his wife, have almost entirely disappeared, the foundations alone remaining to mark the site of church and cloister. Moreton Station is the last passed before reachingDorchester, athrivingtown, as well as one of the cleanest and prettiest in the west of England. Population 6823. Iotels, King's Arms and A ntelope. This town derives its prosperity from its position as a railway centre, its rank as a county town, and its situation in the midst of a dairy and sheep-breeding country, more than 750,000 sheep being fed on the neighboring downs. Dorchester was a British town of importance before the invasion of Caesar, after which time it passed by the name of Durnovaria. It was one of the principal stations of the Romans, who fortified it with walls, and carried roads from it in different directions. The principal objects of interest are St. Peter's Church, the amphitheatre, and the camps of Maiden Castle and Poundbury. The church is situ WEVYMOUTIH. [ENGLAND.] EPSOM. ated in the centre of the town at the intersection of four streets. It is built in the Perpendicular style, and possesses a fine tower. In the interior are some ancient and curious effigies. The amphitheatre is an elliptical earthwork, formed by excavating the chalk and heaping it up to a height of thirty feet-by some believed to be a Roman work of the time of Agricola, and Ly others considered more to resemble a British "round," of which other specimens still exist. It is 218 feet in length by 160 in width, the rampart being higher in the centre than at the ends. The area thus included is capable of accommodating 12,960 spectators, the proof of which has been shown in modern times, when in 1705 ten thousand persons assembled here to witness the burning of the body of Mary Channing after her execution. 'he camp of Poundbury stands on the summit of a hill rising near the western gate of the town. Antiquaries differ in relation to the intrenchment as well as in regard to the amphitheatre, some believing it to be a Danish work constructed during their siege of Dorchester under Sweyn, while others proclaim it a Roman work. The same uncertainty does not exist in regard to Maiden Castle, or Maidun, the lill of Strength. This is a superb British earthwork, one of the largest in existence, occupying the flat summit of a natural hill which has been intrenched and fortified by the labor of man. It is surrounded by two, and in some places three ramparts, 60 feet in height, and measures 500 yards from north to south, and 1000 yards from east to west. The whole encampment covers about 115 acres, the inner area being 45. This interior area is traversed through the centre by a low bank and ditch; there were four gates or entrances defended by outworks. This monstrous fort was a stronghold of the Durotriges, and is probably also the Dunium of Ptolemy. Continuing our route we reach Weymouth, seven miles from Dorchester. Population 11,383. Hotels, Royal and Burdon. This town is a pleasant watering-place, situated on a bay formed like a letter E, the central projecting part, called the Nothe. dividing it into two parts, Weymouth Bay and Portland Roads. Old Weymouth lies to the north of this point, and is connected by a bridge across the harbor with the new town of Melcombe Regis, which stretches for about a mile along the shore. Its principal feature is the Esplanade, from the extremity of which a handsome stone pier runs out into the sea, forming the fashionable promenade. On the Esplanade, at the divergence of the two main streets, stands a statue erected to the memory of George III. The principal buildings are St. Mary's Church, containing ain altar-piece representing the Last Supper, by Sir James Thornhill; St. John's Radipole; the Guildhall, with an Ionic portico; the Markethouse; Literary and Scientific Institution; and the Baths, a handsome edifice standing just below the statue of George III. ROUTE No. 107. London to Portsmouth, via Sydenham (Crystal Palace), Epsom (Derby races), Horsham, and Ford (to the Isle of Wight), by rail. Time, 2 hrs. 35 min.: fare, 15s. Leaving London by the Brighton and South Coast Railway (London Bridge or Victoria Station), we pass Sydenham on our route, where a branch railway conveys passengers directly to the Crystal Palace (see Route No. 72), the fare including the price of admission. Sixteen miles from London we reach Epsom, principally famous for its races, which take place in April, September, and the week before Whitsuntide. The railway station opens on Epsom Downs, close to the grand stand. During the races, if the weather is fine, there are as many as 60,000 people assembled here. Epsom is also celebrated for its mineral springs, producing the wellknown Epsom salts. Continuing our route through most beautiful scenery, we reach Dorking, situated in a valley near the River Mole. Hotels, White lHorse and Red Lion. From the hills surrounding Dork287 HORSHAM. [ENGLAND.] BRADFORD-ON-AVON. ing some of the finest views in England Sands, which protect the Downs, take their may be obtained. This is a favorite re- name from the estate of Earl Goodwin, fasort for invalids during the summer, the ther of King Harold. The best hotels at climate being delightful, and the scenery Ramsgate are Royal and Albion. being unequaled by any place so near the Four miles from Ramsgate is the freemetropolis. and-easy watering-place of Margate, someIlorsham is a fine old town, situated on what on the order of our Coney Island, the Adur, thirty-six miles from London. near New York, where every one seems to Population 6747. Hotels, King's Head and have come for the purpose of having a Anchor. The ancient Church of St. Mary "good time," and are trying their best to contains some interesting monuments of realize what they came for. Cliftonville is early date, among others those of Lords the principal hotel. The Pier, nine hunBraose and Hoo, ancestors of the Duke of dred feet long, erected in 1810 at an exNorfolk. pense of $500,000, the Jarvis Jetty, and the P1iborough is next passed before reach- Clifton Baths, cut out of the solid cliffs, are ing Ford Junction, where this railway meets the principal sights. Population 8874. the line running from Brighton to Ports- From Margate there are four routes in mouth (see Route No. 73). crossing the Channel, viz., from Dover to Ostend, from Dover to Calais, from Folkestone to Boulogne. ROUTE No. 108. London to Ramsgate and Margate, via Chatham, by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 20 min. Ramsgate is about 16 miles from Canterbury. It contains a population of nearly 12,000. Here is a magnificent pier, 2000 feet in length, the erection of which cost three million dollars; on its eastern branch is an obelisk, fifty feet high, erected in honor of George IV., who landed here from his excursion to Hanover in 1821. To the north are the Goodwin Sands, which form a breakwater to the harbor or roadstead called the Downs" All in the Downs the fleet was moored." You have on this coast all the different contradictory definitions of the word Downs. It is a roadstead for shipping, a level tract of land for pasturing sheep, hills of sand thrown up by the sea along the sea-shore, and hills approximating to mountains, such as the Downs of Sussex. The Goodwin 288 ROUTE No. 109. Bath to Dorchester, via Frome, by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 35 min. Bath, see Route No. 95. Bradford -on-Avon is an ancient town of 8032 inhabitants, fo. merly the seat of an important woolen manufacture. The river runs through the centre of the town, and is crossed by two bridges; one of these is of great antiquity, and formerly bore a chapel on the eastern side of the central pier; this is still in existence, but has been degraded to the use of a lock-up. The town of Bradford derives its name from the broad ford over the Avon, which FARLEIGH CASTLE. [ENGLAND.] FROME. was used by all wheel-carriages up to a recent date, the bridge having been too narrow to allow of their passage across. A monastery was founded here in 705 by Aldhelm, Bishop of Sherborne, from which time the town rose in importance until 957, when the Witenagemote which appointed Dunstan Bishop of Worcester was held here. In the 12th century a large church was erected here, of which the western part of the chancel and the southern wall of the nave still remain, forming a portion of the present parish church of the Holy Trinity. The tower, with a groined interior and a low spire, dates from the latter half of the 15th century. In the 13th century the woolen manufacture was established here, but did not reach perfection until the 17th century, when Paul Methuen, the leading clothier of the town, introduced spinners from Holland, who taught the mode of producing the finer textures of cloth, and thus greatly raised the character of the manufacture. The ruins of Farleigh Castle, consisting of two towers, a gate-house, and a portion of the wall, may be visited from Bradford. This building was held by the Hungerford family for a space of 300 years. It was at one time given to George, Duke ofClarence, whose daughter Margaret, the last of the Plantagenets, was born here. Here also one of the Hungerfords (of the time of Henry VIII.) imprisoned his third wife during four long years. A letter of this unfortunate prisoner, to be found in the "Collection of Letters of Royal and Illustrious Ladies," says: "Here I have byn these three or fouryears past without comfort of any creature, and under the custodie of my lord's chaplain, which hath once or twice poysoned me. He hath promised my lord that he would 'soon rid him of me,' and I am sure he intended to keep his promise; for I have none other meat nor drink but such as cometh from the said priest, and brought me by my lord's foole. So that I have been well-nigh starved, and sometimes of a truth should die for lacke of sustenance had not poore women of the country, knowing my lord's demayne always to his wives, brought me to my great window in the night such meat and drink as they had, and gave me for the love of God; for money have I none wherewith to VOL. I.-N 2 pay them, nor yet have had of my lord, these four years, save four groats." This lady, however, outlived her lord, who was beheaded in 1540 for alleged treason, and later found a second and, it is to be hoped, a kinder mate. Trowbridge, the next station on our line, stands on a hill overlooking the River Biss, a tributary of the Avon, and was first built during the Norman period around a castle which occupied a site now called Court Hill. This castle is mentioned by the chroniclers of King Stephen's reign, it having undergone a siege by that king, during which the castle was held for the Empress Maud by Humphrey de Bohun. It is mentioned again in the time of Edward III., but in the reign of Henry VIII. had entirely disappeared. Cloth is manufactured in Trowbridge to a great extent. The railway from here continues up the valley of the Biss to Westbury, an ancient straggling town of 5751 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the iron trade. Here there is little of interest to detain the traveler; near the railway, in a field called Ham, a number of coins and remains of Roman pottery have been discovered; and at Westbury Leigh, a place called Palace Garden is pointed out as the traditional residence of one of the Anglo-Saxon kings. Frome is a thriving market-town of 11,200 inhabitants, owing its origin to the foundation of a monastery here by St. Aldhelm in 705. It is built on the sides of a steep hill, and is rich in manufactures of various kinds, the most important being that of woolen cloth; there are also manun factories of edge-tools, iron-foundries, full ing-mills, card-mills, and dye-works. Th-, parish church of St. John the Baptist is reached on the north by the Calvary step; and stations of the Cross, a series of carv ings which occupy the steep ascent througl the church-yard to the northern porch. Ii the interior notice the pulpit with sculpt ures of the eight great preachers: Noah Moses, Elijah, St. John the Baptist, St. Pe. ter, St. Paul, St. Chrysostom, and St. Ambrose; also the memorial window to Bishop Ken. He was one of the seven bishops who refused to read the Declaration of Indulgence, for which act he was committed to the Tower by James II. in 1688. He was deprived of his office in 1689 by William III. for having refused to take the oath of 289 BRUTON. [ENGLAND.] To PARIS. allegiance. He was buried under the eastern wall of the chancel of this church, and his tomb is to be seen on the outside, protected by an open-worked stone shrine: it is formed of iron bars bent into the form of a coffin, with a pastoral staff and mitre laid across it. Passing Witham Station we reach Bruton, where a monastery was founded in very early times by Ethelmar, Earl of Cornwall; the site of this was later occupied by a priory built by William de Mohun in 1142. This was granted at the Dissolution to Sir Maurice Berkeley. standard-bearer of Henry VIII., but was pulled down in 1786, after the extinction of the family. There is a free grammar-school, founded in 1520, and a good hospital, dating from 1617. Castle-Carey, situated in the midst of a most lovely country, is passed before reaching Yeovil. This is a thriving town, situated on a hill-side rising above the banks of the River Yeo, and containing 8486 inhabitants, mostly engaged in the manufacture of kid gloves. Passing through Mfaiden Newton, containing a church with some early Norman work, we reach Dorchester. Population 6823. Hotels, King's Arms and Antelope (see Route No. 106). The traveler having now exhausted the principal objects of interest in Great Britain, naturally next proceeds toward Paris, formerly the paradise of benighted Americans (many, however, now prefer London), but all must cross the Channel once in their lives. The quickest route is by the Southeastern Railway, than which there is no better managed line in England or on the Continent, and it is really surprising with what regularity the management make the trips in all weathers and with never an accident. This line was the first and for many years the only one to Dover, the first that introduced through-booking with the Continent, and possessed West End and City stations in London. It has always carried the mails, by which trains, 290 via Calais and Dover, passengers arrive and depart to the minute, in 10 hours 30 minutes; in addition to which line there are accelerated special tidal trains via Folkestone and Boulogne, which make the time between London and Paris only 9 hours 15 minutes. Crowned heads and distinguished personages are daily passing over this route. There is also a special additional night service at reduced fares, via Boulogne or Calais. The regular fare to Paris via Boulogne, first class is ~2 16s.; second class, ~2 2s. via Calais, first class, ~3; second class, ~2 5s. The company also issue return tickets available for one month, via Calais and Dover or Boulogne and Folkestone, first class, ~4 15s.; second class, ~3 15s. The fixed mail trains via Calais and Dover, with first and second class passengers, leave London regularly throughout the year, at 7.40 A.M.; Dover Pier at 9.35 A.M.; Calais, 12.35 P.M., arriving at Paris at 6.05 P.M. The evening (firstclass only) mail train leaves Charing Cross at 8.25 P.M.; Dover Pier, 10.20 P.M.; Calais, 1.50 A.M., arriving at Paris at 6.20 A.M. For the short-route special tidal trains, it will be necessary to consult the company's monthly advertisements (which will be found in the reading-rooms of all first-class hotels and various agencies on the Continent) to learn the hour of departure. Trains stop for refreshments at Folkestone harbor ten minutes, and at Amiens and Boulogne stations fifteen minutes. There are no small boats used for embarking or disembarking, and steamers do not leave when the service is considered dangerous. The Company have a fixed mail service to Belgium, Germany, the Rhine, and Russia. Stations in London, Charing Cross and Cannon Street. The trains run to and from alongside the steamers, and there are first-class refreshment-rooms at the respective post stations. FRANCE. [FRANCE.] GEOGRAPHY. GEOGRAPHY. France is situated on the western side of the European continent. It is bounded on the north by Germany, Belgium, and the English Channel; on the east by Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and part of the Mediterranean; on the south by the Mediterranean and Spain; and on the west by the Atlantic. It contains, since its two provinces were ceded to Germany, 206,474 square miles, or about four and a half times as large as the State of New York-nearly twice as large as Great Britain and Ireland. (Its provinces of Oran, Algiers, and Constantine contain 261,209 square miles.) Its population, previous to the war, was 38,192,064. Its present population is 37,000,000: it lost 1,597,228 by the cession of Alsace and Lorraine. The position of France commands most striking natural advantages. Its coasts are washed by the waters of the Atlantic and English Channel a distance of 590 miles, and by the Mediterranean 360. It is protected on the east by the Vosges, the Jura, and the Alps; on the south by the Pyrenees; on the north by an artificial line guarded by numerous fortresses. The greater portion of France forms a succession of gentle slopes and extensive plains. The chief rivers are the Seine, Loire, Garonne, and Rhone: the absence of high grounds between the different river-basins has facilitated the construction of numerous canals,which,with the various lines of railway that cross the country in every direction, has tended much to develop the internal commerce of the country. In the south the Canal du Miidi unites the Garonne,which empties its waters into the Bay of Biscay, with the Mediterranean. The Canal du Centre connects the Loire, which also empties into the Bay of Biscay, with the Saone, which, uniting with the Rhone, empties into the Mediterranean. The Canal de Bourgogne unites the waters of the Saone with those of the Yonne, thereby connecting the basins of the Rhone and Seine; while the Canal du Rhone au Rhin effects a union between these rivers by means of the River Doubs. France has no lakes of any importance, with the exception of some small mountain lakes in the higher valleys of the Pyrenees, and Lake Geneva-France possessing that portion which bounds Savoy on the north, or nearly the whole of one side of the lake. There is considerable difference between the climate of Northern and Southern France, also in their products. In the north and northwest barley,wheat, rye, oats, apples, pears, hemp, and flax are the principal products. In the centre, or that portion of the country which comprises the basin of the Loire with the upper. part of the valley of the Saone, the winter is of shorter duration, the atmosphere less humid, the weather generally more settled, and the vine is the general crop; wheat, oats, rye, barley, and maize are also grown. In the southern region,which includes the valley of the Garonne, the Rhone, and Mediterranean coast, the heat is much greater, and the winter of very short duration: maize here grows in every direction-wheat not at all; and barley, oats, and rye only on the higher grounds; the vine, olive, and mulberry are favorite objects of culture. While on the Mediterranean coast the orange and lemon are every where general; and the towns of Mentone, Nice, Cannes, Hyeres, and Marseilles are favorite residences for invalids, or those who prefer a lovely summer climate in the depth of winter. The harvests in the south are generally three weeks earlier than in the north. France contains extensive forests, chiefly toward the central portion of the country; and over sixteen million acres, or nearly one eighth of its entire surface, is covered with wood. The principal trees are the ash, birch, beech, elm, and poplar; while in the higher regions the pine and fir tree reign supreme. The mineral productions of France are extensive, especially iron: it occurs in abundance along the chains of the Vosges, Cevennes, and Jura, also in the peninsula of Brittany and the basins of the Garonne and Loire; silver, lead, and copper mines are worked to but a limited extent. Rock-salt is obtained in large quantities at the southern extremity of the mountain range of the 291 PRODUCTIONS. [FRANCE.] SOVEREIGNS. Jura, also along the skirts of the Vosges Mountains. France previous to the Revolution of 1789 was divided into thirty-four provinces -manv of them had at one time been independent states. It is now redivided into eighty-seven departments, named in most cases from the rivers by which they are intersected, or from the mountain ranges by which they are bordered. The departments are governed by a Prefect appointed by the general government. The departments are subdivided into arrondissements, cantons, and communes. About three fifths ofthe whole population of France is devoted to agriculture, full one half of the land being arable. About ten per cent. is pasture-land, and four per cent. devoted to the cultivation of the grape -which last is the most important and distinctive feature of French husbandry. The principal wine-growing departments are those bordering on the Garonne, and extending toward the shores of the Mediterranean and in the east, from whence come the Medoc or Bordeaux wines; the department of Ain, Cote d'Or, Saone et Loire, and Yonne, or the ancient province of Burgundy, from whence come the Burgundy wines; and the departments of Ardennes, Aube, Marne, and Haute Marne, or the ancient province of Champagne, from whence comes the Champagne. The vintage takes place during the months of September and October. For the description of the preparation of wine, see Index under heads of Bordeaux, Epernay, and Macon. France ranks second to Great Britain only in the extent and value of her manufacturing industry, but in the production of wine and silk she outranks all other countries; her productions of the latter are noted for their elegance of design, richness of material, and brilliancy of color. The towns in which the most extensive manufacture of silk is carried on are Lyons, Paris, Nimes, Avignon, Tours, and St. Etienne. The manufacture of woolens is next in importance, and is most extensively carried on in Paris, Lyons, Louvers, Amiens, Rheims, and Abbeville. Linen, cotton, and lace are mostly confined to Valenciennes, Lille, Douay, Rouen, Cambray, Lyons, Paris, St. Quentin, Orleans, and Angers. Watches and jewelry to Paris; leather to Paris, Blois, and Grenoble. 292 A CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE KINGS OF FRANCE, FROM A.n. Pharamond, who reigned from... 420 Clodion......................... 427 Meroveus.................... 448 Clhilderic I.................... 458 ClovisI........................ 4S1 On the death of Clovis, in 510, his kingdom was divided among his four sons, viz., Thierry I., King of Metz; Clodomir, King of Orleans; Childebert, King of Paris; and Clothaire, King of Soissons, who became sole king in 558. Clothaire dying in 560, the kingdom was divided: Thierry II. and Gontran reigned at Orleans; Charibert reigned in Paris; Sigebert, Childebert II., Theodebert II., at Metz; and Chilperic I. and Clotllaire II. at Soissons. AD. Clothaire II. became sole king... 613 Charibert II. and Dagobert I..... 628 Sigebert II. and Clovis II........ 638 Clothaire III................... 656 Childeric II................... 670 Dagobert III.................. 674 Thierry III..................... 679 Clovis III...................... 691 Childebert III.................. 695 Dagobert III................... 711 Clothaire IV................... 717 Thierry IV..................... 720 Childeric III................... 742 Pepin and Carloman........... 752 Charlemagne................... 768 Louis I......................... 814 Charles I....................... 840 Louis II........................ 877 Louis III....................... 879 Charles II...................... 884 Eudes.......................... 888 Charles III.................... 898 Robert I....................... 922 Louis IV...................... 936 Lothaire...................... 954 Louis V.................... 986 Hugh Capet.................... 987 Robert II....................... 996 Henry I........................ 1031 Philip I................. 1060 Louis VI....................... 1108 Louis VII...................... 1137 Philip II....................... 1180 Louis VIII................. 1223 Louis IX................ 1226 Philip ill................. 1270 Philip IV...................... 1285 Louis X........................ 1314 Philip V...................... 1316 Charles IV..................... 1322 Philip VI....................... 1328 Jean........ 1350 Charles V.................. 1364 Charles VI................ 1380 Charles VII.................. 1422 Louis XI........... 1461 Charles VIII................... 1483 Louis XII..................... 1498 Francis I.............. 1515 Henry II..................... 1547 Francis II........9............ 1559 Charles IX................ 1560 Henry III................ 1574 CURRENCY. [FRANCE.] RoTwEs. A.D. -lenry IV...................... 1589 Louis X II...................... 1610 Louis XIV.................... 1643 Louis XV..................... 1715 Louis XVI..................... 1774 States-General.................. 1789 Constituent Assembly........... 1789 Legislative Assembly............ 1792 Republic and Convention........ 1792 Reign of Terror................ 1793 Directory...................... 1795 Consulate...................... 1799 Napoleon Bonaparte............. 1804 Louis XVIII................... 1814 Charles X..................... 1825 Louis Philippe................. 1830 Republic...................... 1848 Napoleon III.................. 1852 Republic....................... 1870 Currency.-In France and Belgium the currency is francs and centimes: lfranc = 100 centimes=18* cents. American travelers generally call one franc twenty cents; it costs them that. Although the franc and centime are the legal currency in all commercial transactions, the sou, which is about equal to one cent, is usual in ordinary trade. Twenty of them are worth one franc, and it will be well to note the difference. You hear of centimes, but hardly ever see them. Five of this coin make one sou. The French have adopted a decimal system of weights and measures. We give those parts of it which are of special use to travelers: Weights.-The unit is the gramme, which is the weight of the 100th part of a metre of distilled water at the temperature of melting ice. It is equal to 15.434 grains Troy. Hence, 1 Gramme -15 grains Troy, nearly. 1 Decagramme (10 grammes) = 5 drams Avoirdupois, nearly. 1 Hectogramme (100 grammes) = 3 ounces Avoirdupois, nearly. 1 Kilogramme (1000 grammes) = 2* pounds Avoirdupois, nearly. 1 Myriagramme (10,000 grammes) = 22 pounds Avoirdupois, nearly. Measures.-The metre is the unit. This is the ten-millionth part of the quadrant of the earth's meridian. It is equal to about 39.370 inches. Hence, 1 Metre = 3 feet 3 inches, ao. 1 Hectometre (100 metres) = 328 feet, nearly. 1 Kilometre (1000 metres) (3280 feet)= i mile, nearly. 1 Myriametre(10,000 metres) = 61 miles, nearly. The metre is the basis of all measures of capacity; thus the litre is the cube of the tenth part of a metre, equal to IuO~ of a gallon-a little less than a quart. The present debt of France is a little over 4524 millions of dollars; more than double that of the United States, and about one tenth more than that of Great Britain. The imports are about 630 millions, and the exports 615 millions. The annual receipts of the government are in round numbers 481 millions of dollars; the annual expenses, including interest on the public debt, 477 millions. The active force of the French army is 704,714 men; the reserve, 510,294; there is also a territorial army of 582,523, and a reserve territorial army of 625,633-making a total of 2,423,164. The navy consists of 154 vessels of different grades, and 78 reserve. The thermometers used in France are the Centigrade and Reaumer's, the freezingpoint of both being 0~; while the boilingpoint of the former is 100~, that of the latter is 80~. To convert Centigrade into Fahrenheit, multiply the degrees by 9, and divide by 5, adding 32 to the result: C. 10~ =R. 8~-F. 18~ +32~ =50~. There are about 11,000 miles of railway in running order, and 27,000 miles of electric telegraph. Sixty-six pounds of baggage are allowed free on railways; and as all baggage is weighed and registered, the traveler should endeavor to be at the station twenty minutes before the starting-time, and if there is a likelihood of a large number of travel. ers, a full half-hour. 293 ROUTES. [FRANCE.] ROUTES. FROM LONDON TO PARIS. 1. There are several routes from London to Paris. The tidal train from Folkestone to Boulogne. The time of departure varies according to the tide. By rail from London to Folkestone, 2 hrs. 15 min.; steamer to Boulogne, 2 hours; train to Paris, 4 hrs. 50 min.: whole time, including stoppages, 10 hours. Fare, $13 25. 2. From London to Paris, via Calais and Dover. Leaves London: From Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge, every morning at 7.35, and every evening at 8.30. Time, 10 h. 30 m.; via Dover, Calais, Boulogne, and Amiens. Fare, $14 81. 3. From London to Paris, via Newhaven, D)ieppe, and Rouen. This is the shortest and cheapest route between the two cities. The channel service, however, is longer than by the other routes; but Rouen can be visited on the way to Paris, through tickets, which only cost $7 50, giving the traveler the right of stopping at either Dieppe or Rouen. Trains leave daily from Victoria Station and London Bridge. Baggage checked through to Paris, or vice versa, is only examined at Paris or London, and that very lightly-cigars being the principal article prohibited that travelers would be likely to carry. Passports are asked for on landing, but "Je suis Americain" is sufficient, unless there is some political difficulty in the country, when it is always well to be in possession of a passport. ROUTES. RouTE 110 (page 296).-Paris to Calais, via Clermont, Amiens, and Boulogne. 294 ROUTE 111 (page 386).-London to Paris, via Newhaven and Dieppe. Paris to Dieppe, via Rouen or via Pontoise. ROUTE 112 (page 390).-Paris to Havre, via Rouen and Yvetot. ROUTE 113 (page 392).-Paris to Cherbourg, via Mantes, Evreux, Caen, and Bayeux, with excursions to Trouville, Honfleur, St. Lo, Granville, St.Malo, and Dinan. ROUTE 114 (page 397).-Paris to Brest, via Versailles, Chartres, Le Mans (rail to Alenqon and Falaise), Laval, Rennes, St. Brieuc, Guingamp, and Morlaix. ROUTE 115 (page 401).-Paris to Brest, via Orleans, Tours, Angers, Nantes, Redon, Vannes, Lorient, and Quimper. ROUTE 116 (page 407).-Tours to La Rochelle, via Poitiers and Niort (branch lines from Niort to Angers, and from La Rochelle to Nantes). ROUTE 117 (page 409).-Poitiers to Bayonne and Biarritz, via Angouleme (Cognac), Coutras, Libourne, Bordeaux, Lamothe (junction for Arcachon), and Dax (branch line from Coutras to Jonzac, Pons, Saintes, Royan, and Rochefort). ROUTE 118 (page 419).-Bordeaux to Narbonne, via Agen, Montauban, Toulouse, Villefranche, and Carcassonne. ROUTE 119 (page 423).-Toulouse to Bayonne, via Montrejeau (Luchon), Tarbes (Bagnbres-de-Bigorre), Pau, and Orthez. ROUTE 120 (page 443).-Paris to Orleans, Agen, and Tarbes, via Chateauroux, Limoges, Perigueux, Lectoure, and Auch. ROUTE 121 (page 446).-Narbonne to ROUTES. [FRANCE.] RorTES, Nimes, via B6ziers, Cette, and Montpellier. ROUTE 122 (page 448).-Paris to Vichy and Nimes, via Fontainebleau, Montargis, Gien, Nevers, Moulins (Vichy and Cusset), Clermont, Brioude, and Alais. Or to Toulouse, via Murat, Aurillac, Figeac, and Gaillac. ROUTE 123 (page 454).-Paris to Lyons and Geneva, via Nevers, Moulins, Roanne, Tarare, and Amberieu. ROUTE 124 (page 457).-Paris to Nice, via Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Aries, Marseilles, and Toulon, with branch line to Grenoble via Aix and Gap. ROUTE 125 (page 476).-Paris to Geneva, via Macon, Bourg, and Amberieu. Or to Turin, via Macon, Bourg, Amberieu, Aixles-Bains, Chamb6ry, St. Jean de Maurienne, and Modane. ROUTE 126 (page 478).-Dijon to Lausanne and Zurich, via Pontarlier and Neufchatel. ROUTE 127 (page 478).-Paris to Basle, via Nogent, Troyes, Chaumont, Vesoul, Belfort, and Mulhouse. ROUTE 128 (page 480).-Paris to Strasburg, via Meaux, Epernay, Chalons, Barle-Duc, Toul, Nancy, Luneville, and Sarrebourg. ROUTE 129 (page 492).-Lyons to Strasburg, via Bourg, Lons, Besan9on, Mulhouse, and Colmar. ROUTE 130 (page 493).-Paris to Luxembourg, via Epernay, Chalons,Verdun, Metz, and Thionville. ville, via Soissons, Rheims, Mezieres, Se. dan, and Montmedy. ROUTE 132 (page 496).-Paris to Cologne, via Creil, St. Quentin, Charleroi, Namur, Liege, and Aix-la-Chapelle. ROUTE 133 (page 498).-Paris to Brussels, via Clermont, Arras, Douai, Valenciennes, and Mons. Or to Ghent, via Arras, Douai, Lille, and Courtrai (branch line from Lille to Hazebrouck, St. Omer, and Calais). ROUTE 134 (page 505).-Brussels to Antwerp, via Mechlin. ROUTE 135 (page 515).-Brussels to Liege and Verviers, via Namur. ROUTE 136 (page 517).-Brussels to Lux, embourg, via Namur and Arlon. ROUTE 137 (page 518).-Brussels to Os. tend, via Ghent and Bruges. ROUTE 138 (page 521).-Brussels to Loou vain and Liege. ROUTE 139 (page 522).-Brussels to Calais, via Courtrai, Poperinghe, and Hazebrouck. ROUTE 140 (page 523).-Brussels to Paris, via Hal, Mons, and Valenciennes. ROUTE 141 (page 526).-Antwerp to Rotterdam. ROUTE 142 (page 527).-Rotterdam to Amsterdam, via the Hague. ROUTE 143 (page 533).-The Hague tc Haarlem and Ilelder. ROUTE 144 (page 533),-Amsterdam to Cologne, via Utrecht and Arnheim., so9}; ROUTE 131 (page 494).-Paris to Thion CALAIS. [FRANCE.] BOULOGNE. It is well remembered as the last foothold of the English in France, having remained in their possession from 1347 to 1558, when it was taken by the Duke of Guise. It is also noted for having withstood the siege of Edward III. for eleven months. The Hotel de Ville, situated in the Great Market-place, contains the municipal offices. Standing in front are columns with busts of the Duc de Guise, Cardinal Richelieu, and Eustace de St. Pierre, one of the brave defenders of the town during the siege of Edward III. The Church of Notre Dame was erected during the time the English were masters of Calais. It is surmounted by a fine tower, is built in the Gothic style, and contains a picture of the Assumption by Van Dyke. The principal products of the town are tulle, hosiery, gloves, and hats. From Calais to Boulogne the distance is twenty-six miles and a half. Time, one hour. Nearly five miles from Boulogne, at a place called Wimereux, the late Emperor of the French landed with a few faithful followers, August 6, 1840, in his attempt to seize the crown. Boulogne (sur Mer) is situated at the mouth of the River Lianne, and contains a population of 40,251. Principal hotel, Du Nord,in afine situation; post,telegraph, and central coach-office in hotel; well-managed by Mr. Lacoste. Boulogne derives its great importance from being on the great line of travel between London and Paris, the time required to go from one to the other of those two cities being now reduced to nine hours. Nearly a tenth of the population is English, and the English tongue is heard on every side. It was the Roman Gessoriacum. During the bathing season visitors from England and different parts of France are numerous. The port is the main object of attraction to the residents-some 800,000 people annually embarking and disembarking; the harbor is artificial, and when the tide is out it is entirely dry. On each side there are wooden piers, over one third of a mile long, which serve as a promenade for visitors. The town is divided into two parts, the old town, or Haute Ville, and the new town, or Basse Ville, the latter containing all the best hotels and lodging-houses, the princi ROUTE No. 110. Calais to Boulogne and Paris. * Calais. [The railway now runs close to.the steamboat landing; passengers are then conveyed to the station hotel, where they have about forty-five minutes to dine.] Principal hotels, Dessin and Station. This strongly fortified town, being a fortress of the second class, contains 13,500 inhabitants. It is distant from Dover twenty-two miles. The harbor is approached by two wooden piers three quarters of a mile long. Toward the outward rampart is a lighthouse 190 feet high. The piers and ramparts form an agreeable promenade. The old town is surrounded by walls, with one gateway toward the sea and one toward the land; that toward the sea side was built by Cardinal Richelieu in 1635. Calais is now a manufacturing town, with very little to interest the traveler. 296 BOULOGNE. [FRANCE.] BOULOGxE. pal shops, and nicest streets. The Old Town retains its ramparts, which form an agreeable walk around the town. In one corner may be seen the Castle, flanked by round towers. It was here that the late Emperor Napoleon III. was confined, after his abortive attempt to seize the government. On the high ground to the east were situated the camps of Caligula, Henry VIII., Napoleon I., and Napoleon III. The Citadel was destroyed in 1690. The Hotel de Ville is situated in the Old Town, behind which rises a square massive tower, called the Bejfroi; it dates from the 13th century. From the top there is a magnificent view, the cliffs of Dover being quite distinct in clear weather. The Cathedral is a modern structure, still unfinished, although consecrated in 1867. It is supposed to rest on the site of a church built in the 12th century by the mother of Godfrey de Bouillon, and another of later date destroyed during the Revolution. Its high altar is a gift from Prince Torlonia, the Roman banker. The dome, which rises from the eastern end of the building, is nearly three hundred feet high. There is a tradition that during the 7th century an oarless and sailless boat arrived at Boulogne containing an image of the Virgin Mary, and that a church was built to protect this valuable relic. Underneath are extensive and ancient crypts. The Museum is situated in the Grand Rue, and contains numerous objects of interest, being one of the best provincial museums in France. Among a variety of ancient armor, arms, etc., may be seen a model of Caligula's Tower, which formerly stood on the heights above. There is a compartment devoted to natural history, a picture-gallery, and public library. It was from Boulogne that Napoleon I. had planned to make his descent on England, and so certain was he of invading that country that a medal is shown in the Museum, bearing the date 1804, " Descente en Angleterre," "Frapp6 a Londres." He had concentrated at Boulogne 180,000 men and 2400 transports, prepared to cross the Channel. His intention was with the combined fleets of France, Spain, and Holland to sweep the Channel of the English fleet, and under cover of his own to land his men on the opposite shore. The war with Aus tria, however, and the defeat at Trafalgar, put a stop to the enterprise. A short distance from the town rises a conspicuous memorial of the intended invasion-a marble monument 166 feet high, surmounted by a bronze statue of the emperor in his coronation robes. The cornerstone was laid by Marshal Soult in 1804, and the work commenced by the Grande Armee. About a mile from this there stands another monument of marble, to commemorate the distribution of the Order of the Legion of Honor among the troops during one of Napoleon's visits to the camp. To the east of the harbor is the Etablissement des Bains, one of the best constructed in France. It is built in the Renaissance style, and contains a ball-room, readingrooms, conversation-rooms, etc., and is surrounded by a pretty garden, near which is a large Aquarium. Le Sage, author of " Gil Blas;" Thomas Campbell, author of " Pleasures of Hope;" and Churchill, the poet, all died at Boulogne. On the heights above the sea-bathing establishment are some remnants of a brick tower said to have been built by Caligula, A.D. 40. Boulogne is the birthplace of Fred6ric Sauvage, considered in France as the inventor of the screw-propeller, in 1832; he was born on the 20th of September, 1786. The town has lately gone to considerable expense in awarding him posthumous honors, which culminated in the uncovering of a monument to his memory. The remains of Fr6deric Sauvage were removed from Paris and interred with public honors on the 20th of September, 1872. The monument over his grave is a square pediment in three portions, made of gray marble, of the same kind as the Napoleon Column is built, and obtained from the Marquise Quarries. It rises to the height of fourteen feet, and on the top a heroic-sized bronze bust of Frederic Sauvage is placed. On either side of the monument is an inscription setting forth the date of his birth, death (19th of July, 1857), the translation of his remains, and a list of his inventions. On the front are the two words, "Frbedric Sauvage," and a bronze bas-relief showing a vessel with a screw-propeller, a pantograph, a horizontal mill for sawing marble, and a souf297 ABBEVILLB. [FRANCE.] AMIENS. flet hydraulique for raising water, all of which were either invented or perfected by F. Sauvage, who, in addition, invented the conformateur, an instrument for measuring the head, and an automatic boat. Frederic Sauvage's life was similar to those of many other inventors in that he spent his days and fortune in perfecting inventions which brought him no profit. Having lost his own money, he borrowed from others, and, being unable to repay, was thrown into a debtors' prison, which he afterward exchanged for a mad-house,where he died on the 19th of July, 1857. The monument was designed by M. de Bayser, town architect of Boulogne. IFrom Boulogne to Abbeville, a distance of 49 miles, at which the Somme is crossed. It was near this spot the English army crossed before the battle of Crecy (a distance of twelve miles). A bbeville contains a population of 21,500. Hotels, De la Tete de Beexf and France. This town is situated on the River Somme, and is accessible to vessels of 150 tons. It is noted principally for its manufacture of woolens, but there is nothing to be seen of any importance within its streets, if we except the old church of St. Wolfram, commenced in the reign of Louis XII., and never finished.- There is an old Castle, now used as a prison, a Public Library in the Hotel de Ville, and a Museum. The ancient ramparts are now used as a public promenade. Crecy is distant 12 miles from Abbeville; it is noted for its famous battle, fought the 26th of August, 1346, between Philip VI. with 100,000 men, and Edward III. with 30,000. The English king gained a great victory, notwithstanding the disparity of numbers, owing principally to the use of cannon for the first time; the French had none in use. The French army was under the command of the Count d'Alencon. the king's brother, who was slain, as well as the Kings of Bohemia and Majorca. The Prince of Wales (the Black Prince) then won his spurs and the feathers, which the present Princes of Wales wear. Eighteen miles from Abbeville Picquigny is passed: it was here that Louis Xl. and Edward IV. met on a bridge to exchange treaties, shake hands, and make friends; but as deception was the order of the day, the monarchs were so distrustful of each 298 other that a barrier of wooden palisades was put up, over which they were co shake hands and swear eternal friendship. Amiens. Hotets de France, d'Angleterre, and du Rhin. This city, which contains a population of 61,063, is finely situated on the Somme, about thirty-five miles from its mouth, and is the capital of the department of that name, the chief town of Picardy. Outside of France Amiens is better known for its treaty, called the " Peace of Amiens," than for any other cause. The Salle is shown in the Hotel de Ville where Joseph Bonaparte for France, Lord Cornwallis for England, Chevalier Azara for Spain, and M. Schimmelpennick for Holland, signed the treaty. The principal object of interest here is the Cathedral,which is not only one of the finest Gothic edifices in France, but in Europe, covering more ground than any other, with the exception of St. Peter's, at Rome, and the Cologne Cathedral, the nave being half as high again as that of Westminster Abbey. The Cathedral of Notre Dame was commenced in 1220, or early in the 13th century, and finished about the end of the 14th century; the central spire, however, was not completed until two centuries later. The length of the building is 468 feet, and height of nave 140 feet. An eminent writer says of it that " the interior is one of the most magnificent spectacles that architectural skill can ever have produced; the mind is filled and elevated by its enormous height, its lofty and many-colored clerestory, its grand proportions, its noble simplicity." Notice at the crossing of the transepts the three magnificent rose windows, over 100 feet in circumference: the tracing is of the most exquisite description, and the staining of the glass simply gorgeous. In one of the interior chapels that run around the church is the skull of John the Baptist, brought from Constantinople during the time of the Crusades-the lower jaw has disappeared. Notice the brass effigy on the left as you enter: it was erected to the memory of Bishop Evrard de Fouilley, the founder of the cathedral. In the choir are 110 stalls, the intricate carvings of which have produced the greatest amount of admiration. The treaty of peace between Edward VI. and Henry III. was signed here in 1550. The Museum of Amiens is situated in the CLERMONT-SUR-OISE. [FRANCE.] CHANTILLY. Rue des Rabuessons; it is built on the site of the old arsenal, and contains a fine collection of pictures, a gallery of religious monuments, a collection of Celtic antiquities, and Roman pottery. The Public Library,which contains some 60,000 volumes, and a collection of MSS., is situated immediately opposite the MuseuIll. The Citadel is the only remaining portion of the old fortifications; it is still a place of considerable strength, its ramparts are now the principal promenade of the citizens. In addition there is a splendid promenade west of the city called the Promenade de la Ildtoie. Amiens is the birthplace of Peter the Hermit, preacher of the Crusades — there is a bronze statue erected to his memory on Place St. Michael. Clermont-sur-Oise contains a population of 6000. Hotel, Croissant. This place was formerly a very important fortress; its castle is now a female penitentiary: here the great Condf retired from court, and defended the castle against the king. Creil Junction, where numerous lines of railway meet: that for Paris by Chantilly, also by Pontoise; to Cologne, via Compiegne; a branch line to Beauvais; one to St. Quentin and Brussels. The town contains 4600 inhabitants. On an island in the river are the remains of the old castle in which Charles VI. was confined during his madness. Six miles from Creil is Chantilly, noted for its manufacture of silk lace; the town contains 3400 inhabitants. Hotels, Grand Cerf and De la Pelouse. This is one of the loveliest spots in the vicinity of Paris; it owes its creation to the great Conde, who here spent the remaining years of his life. It was here he gave that magnificent entertainment to the king, his cousin, made memorable by the event of Vatel, the celebrated cook, running himself through with his sword because the fish did not arrive in time for dinner. The king, who had a claim to the estate, intimated to Conde that he would like to obtain possession. Conde replied that the king was master, but asked as a favor to be retained as concierge. The grandson of the great Conde built a magnificent chateau here, which was destroyed by the mob during the first revolution. The stables, however, which are the finest in France; still exist. They are located immediately in front of the racecourse stands. The Duc de Bourbon, Prince de Conde, the last possessor of both titles, was discovered hung by his cravat to a window-bolt in his bedroom in Paris in 18301, he was seventy-fouryears of age. It was supposed that he was murdered. He left by will all his property to the Duc d'Aumale, second son of Louis Philippe: Chantilly and its magnificent forest, containing nearly seven thousand acres; the Palais Bourbon, or Palace of the Legislative Body, and other property of immense value. The confiscation law of 1853 being passed, all the property belonging to the Orleanists was sold, and Chantilly was bought by two members of the banking-firm of Coutts & Co., of London. It was supposed at the time the purchase was made on account of the Duc d'Aumale, which proved to be true, as he is now in possession. The French National Assembly, since the fall of the empire, repealed the law confiscating the property of the house of-Orleans. Chantilly races take place under the patronage of the Paris Jockey Club in May, September, and October; and here the French Derby is run, the winner of which is generally sent to England the same month (May) to contend for the English Derby, and then back for the Grand Prix, which takes place a week later at Longchamps (Bois de Boulogne). There is a large colony of English grooms and jockeys maintained at Chantilly for training purposes. The Duc d'Aumale gave the Prince of Wales a magnificent entertainment here in the autumn of 1874. Chantilly is twenty-five miles from Paris, and during the races trains run every ten minutes to and from the capital. These races only take place on Sundays. Travelers who have no conscientious scruples on the subject should take an early train, say nine or ten o'clock, thereby avoiding the rush, and breakfast in the town or at the pavilions, where a good breakfast can be obtained. St. Denis, see Route 112. The description of the route from London to Paris, via Folkestone and Boulogne, is naturally included in the route just de299 DIEPPE. [FRANCE.] DIEPPE. scribed, as Boulogne is reached from Ca- The oyster-beds were formerly very exlais in one hour. The Tidal train is pref- tensive. The streets are regularly built, erable, if the hour answer, being both and there are few specimens of antiquity cheaper and quicker than via Calais and remaining, as the town was completely Dover. destroyed by the English in 1694. The principal object of attraction is the Church * of St. Jacques, which dates from the 13th century. In the Lady Chapel, which is a good specimen of the late Gothic style, there is some fine modern painted glass. The stalls in the choir, which are very fine, were executed by a Rouen artist in 1865. Close to the church is a statue of Admiral Duquesne, a native of Dieppe, who defeated the Dutch Admiral de Ruyter in a naval engagement off the Sicilian coast. The most conspicuous object in Dieppe is its ancient Castle, now used as a barrack. In addition to its picturesque appearance, its towers and draw-bridge, it possesses many historical associations. It was here that Henry IV. took refuge before the army of the League, and where he received his ROUTE No. 111. reinforcements from Queen Elizabeth. The From London to Paris, via Newhaven and Duchesse de Longueville retreated here Dieppe. Fare only $7 50. after defying the royal authority; she was This route can be made the most inter- pursued by her implacable enemy, Anne esting of all the routes to Paris. The sea- of Austria, and was compelled to fly by passage is longer, but an excursion can be night, alone, dressed as a man, on board an made to Brighton and the Isle of Wight at English vessel. the same time. The Etablissement des Bains is a large Brighton is only one hour from London; handsome building, with concert and ball thence to the Isle of Wight by Ports- rooms (the billiard-rooms are situated in a mouth, returning along the coast to Bright- smaller building), in front of which on an on, Hastings, etc., to Newhaven; thence esplanade a band plays in the afternoons. by steamer to Dieppe and railway to Par- The reading-rooms are well supplied with is, stopping at Rouen, which is one of the foreign and domestic journals. most interesting cities in France. Through There are numerous bathing-houses for tickets by this route allow passengers to ladies and gentlemen, who bathe in public, break the journey at Dieppe and Rouen. but not together as in America. Luggage is charged much less by this There are regular-appointed malebathers route, and can be registered through to for ladies, and boats at hand in case of acciParis. Passengers enter the cars directly dent. The grounds surrounding the etafrom the steamer without any inconven- blissement have been prettily laid ou' in ience. gardens. Visitors will find the manufacture of Dieppe contained, in 1866, 19,946 inhab- carved ivory a specialty of Dieppe. It itants. The principal hotels are the Royal will be found cheaper and in larger assortand Des Bains, both finely situated near ments than in any other town. the Etablissement des Bains, and admira- The excursions in the vicinity of Dieppe bly managed. Dieppe is quite famous in are numerous and exceedingly beautiful. history, and three centuries ago it con- One of the principal is to the Castle of Artained three times its present population: ques, situated in the valley of the Bethune, its inhabitants were noted both for their about three miles from Dieppe. It occubravery in war and their skill in commerce. pies a very prominent position, and its ruin 300 LONGUEVILLE. [FRANCE.] PARIS. covers a large area of ground. The two immense towers which flank its entrance are most conspicuous at a distance. It is supposed to date from the 12th century. It is noted as the scene of the great victory obtained by the Bearnais prince, Henry IV., and his army of 4000 followers, over the army of the League, 30,000 strong, under the command of the Duc de Mayenne. Every volley of Henry's artillery made a street through the serried ranks of his opponents. A small obelisk marks the spot where the heat of the battle took place. Another interesting excursion is that to the light-house on Cape d'Ailly along the cliffs to Pourville, and another to the village of Varengeville, where stands the Manoir d'Ango, the former residence of the celebrated merchant Ango, the friend of Francis I. Among the medallions over the grand entrance notice those of Francis I. and Diana of Poitiers. Passing through a tunnel over a mile long, and eleven miles from Dieppe, the station of Longueville is reached. Upon the heights above the town may be seen the ruins of the Castle of Longueville, noted during the wars of the Fronde as the stronghold of the duchesse, sister of the great Cond6. At St. Victor Station are the ruins of an abbey founded by William the Conqueror. Rouen, see Route No. 112, Havre to Paris. PARIS. As the stranger is unquestionably desirous to " do " Paris, the city of the world, at once, we will immediately proceed to describe that centre where magnificence, elegance, and luxury reign supreme. Then, making Paris our starting-point, we will describe the different routes through France, and then continue on our tour through Germany, Austria, Italy, and the East. On arriving at Paris the traveler is exposed to a very great annoyance in being obliged to wait a full half-hour, while the octroi, or custom-house authorities, lay out along the tables the whole of the baggage arriving by the train; and although your baggage may have been examined at Havie, Boulogne, or Calais, it is generally examined again by the octroi, who, not 301 PArIS. [FRANCE.] PARtS. finding any thing to eat in your trunks, pass them. As wines and provisions of all kinds pay a duty entering Paris from the country, all baggage must be examined on entering the barriers. The persons employed in this duty are called octroyens, and number about 1000. There is a tax on wine, vinegar, brandy, spirits, beer, oil, charcoal, butchers' meat, ham, sausages, straw, and hay. If you refuse to declare any of the above, you are liable to a fine equal to the value of the articles. If there are several persons traveling together, or if the traveler has considerable baggage, a small omnibus should be taken, which is capable of holding 6 persons, or a large one, capable of holding 14 persons. The price is about double that of an ordinary voiture. Engage your omnibus or voiture as soon as you arrive, taking the printed number of the voiture, or a check from the conductor of the omnibuses, which you will give to the porter (facteur) after your baggage has been examined. The conductor will write the price you will be charged by the driver on a paper, which, with about 1 franc pouriboire, is all you pay. The price for the small omnibus is about 5 francs; for the large, 8 francs. A reasonable amount of baggage is allowed; after that there is an extra charge. Hotels.-Grand Hotel, Grand IItel du Louvre, Continental HItel, Grand Hdtel de l'A theiee, H6tel Bellvue, IIotel du Parlement, IIotel Binda; and H6tel Chatham, 67 Rue Neuve St. Augustin, entrance from Rue de la Paix and the Boulevard, a fine house, with moderate prices, and one of the most central and best locations in Paris. Grand Hotel, situated on the Boulevard des Capucines, opposite the termination of Rue de la Paix, which leads to the Tuileries; it adjoins the new Opera-house, is in close proximity to the leading theatres and principal railway stations, and the very centre of the life and gayety of modern Paris. This magnificent structure is entirely isolated from all other buildings, covers an extent of 9000 square yards, and has a frontage on the boulevards of 390 feet; its different facades contain 444 windows, in addition to those in the court-yards, ground-floor, and entresol; the rooms and drawing-rooms number 700, nearly half of which are furnished in the most luxurious style. Its dining-room is the most magnificent in the 302 world. Leading from its beautiful " Court of Honor" are reading-rooms, caf6s, billiard - saloon, reception - rooms, telegraph offices, etc. Entirely remodeled and reorganized by the new management, travelers will find in it the best cuisine and the best wines in Paris. A large addition to the personnel secures the general service of the hotel. A strict supervision prevents all cause of complaint. Increased facilities and comforts of every kind are offered to travelers. The situation of the Grand H6tel du Louvre is delightful, and the amusements about the house so varied that you hardly want to go out to look for any other. It occupies a whole block, covering about two acres of ground, and is bounded by Rue Rivoli on the front, Rue St. Honor6 on the rear, Place du Palais Royal and Rue de Marengo on the other two sides. It is on the same plan as our hotels, with the exception that you can breakfast and dine out, paying only for your rooms, which vary from 30 f. ($6) to 4 f. (80 cts.), according to the floor you are on, and whether you are inside or outside of the court. From the court a magnificent double staircase leads to a Corinthian gallery, occupied as a reading-rooml; here you will find all the leading papers, magazines, and reviews. Continental IIotel, the new magnificent palace hotel opened in June, 1878, situated in the heart of Paris, on the angle of the Rue Castiglione and the Rue de Rivoli, and facing the Tuileries Garden, is one of the marvels of modern hotel enterprise, uniting, in luxury, elegance, size, and comfort, all that art and industry have been able to realize. The monumental entrance, on the Rue Castiglione, gives access through three passages to a vast " Court of Honor," around which runs a spacious gallery, recalling the colonnade of the Louvre, and constituting the promenade and rendezvous for the guests of the house and their friends; this is glassed in in winter and heated. Three flights of steps lead from the court; on the right, one to the offices and receptionrooms; in the centre, another to the salon de conversation; and the third, on the left, to the cafe and other halls. These last all face on the Rue de Rivoli; the cafe, decorated in the style of Henry II., is a marvel of dazzling richness; the restaurant, adjoining, presents a contrast by the severity displayed in its luxury; the salle-a- manger, PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. of grand dimensions, with its lookout over I in Paris. All the rooms have a southern the Tuileries Gardens, has its equal in but aspect. First-class table d'hote and fine few palaces; the magnificent salon de con- wines. versation, facing the entrance, is decorated IIotel Bellvue, on the Avenue de l'Opera, and ornamented in the purest Louis XIV. within a few yards of the Grand Opera, the style. Farther on, the salon [Mauresque, Boulevards, and many of the principal atconsidered by many the chef-d'oeuvre of tractions, occupies one of the finest and the hotel, is reached, reproducing in its sunniest positions in Paris; besides being three divisions the marvels of the Alham- specially constructed as a hotel, it contains bra. From this the salle desfetes is enter- every modern convenience (lift, etc.), and ed, another magnificent hall in the Louis is admirably conducted under the personal XIV. style, with its sixteen red marble supervision of the proprietor, Mr. Iauser, columns supporting the ceiling, its frescoes for many years most favorably known to by Laug6e, and other splendors too numer- Americans. ous to attempt to recall. Adjoining this Hidtel Binda, an elegant, first-class house is an enticing supper-room. Leaving the on the Avenue de l'Op6ra, with entrance gallery preceding the sal'e desfetei on the on the Rue de l'tchelle, No. 11, with large ground-floor, the cour des fetes is reached, and small apartments, reading, smo'king, a court of marvellous architecture, giving and bath rooms, lift, and every modern exit through two doors to the Rue Rouget comfort. American breakfasts and other de l'Ile. From this court the principal national specialties receive particular atstaircase, the escalier d'honneur, leads to tention. The hotel is under the personal the festal and banqueting halls of the first supervision of the proprietor, Mr. Binda, floor. favorably known for many years to AmerThe Continental contains 600 bedrooms icans in connection with Delmonico's of and salons, from 4 frs. to 25 frs. per day; New York. contains numerous public rooms not men- No. 2 Rue Scribe is the office of the tioned, reading, smoking, music, and bill- American Register, a weekly journal. The iard rooms, a winter-garden, etc. There is Register is the only American journal puba table d'hote at 6 o'clock, with admission lished on the Continent, and is exceedingly till 6.30, at 7 frs., wine included; a sepa- useful to travelers in finding out the whererate dining-room for orders a la carte; abouts of their friends, as it publishes a bath-rooms and hydropathy; post and weekly report of the arrivals of Americans telegraph offices, etc., etc. The establish- in Paris and London. Harper's Hand-books ment is under the management of a man and Harper's Phrase-book are both for sale most thoroughly qualified for the position, at the Register office. assisted by a staff of most efficient aids. Harper's Hand-books and Phrase-book Grand Nitel de l'A thenee is very centrally may be found at Martinet's book-store, unsituated near the new Opera-house, in the der the Grand Hotel. centre of the American colony. It is admirably managed, good cuisine, and prices moderate. It is much patronized by Americans, who speak of it most highly. It has also the advantage of an elevator. The HNtel Chatham stands conspicuous as having one of the best cuisines in Paris; in fact, Fraser's Magazine (good authority) calls it the very best. Dinner at the table d'hote, with wine, only five francs. M. Holzschuch is the able manager. It has recently been much enlarged, and is a most elegant house. The H6tel du Parlement is a first-class house, situated at the corner of the Boulevard de la Madeleine and Place de la Madeleine, one of the most lovely positions:303 PARTS. [FRANCE.] PARIES instances as high as fifty francs, for doing nothing, they compel the various tradespeople-grocer, butcher, etc., etc.-to pay them a heavy percentage upon all supplies made to families residing in the house. It is a known fact that in some houses the concierges make from 10,000 to 15,000 francs a year. Unless it be in the summer season, when apartments are plentiful, and therefore cheap, we should recommend Travelers intending to make a length- the hotel in preference, if required only by ened stay in Paris, and who, from motives the week. Every thing is included in a either of privacy or economy, prefer lodg- furnished apartment with the exception ings, will find an abundance of " Mllisons of plate, linen, and knives: these articles leuhlees," from the most luxurious and can be hired without trouble from persons costly down to the humblest and cheapest making it their special business. Unfurkind, containing suites of apartments for nished apartments are generally let on a families, with kitchen and every thing lease of three, six, or nine years, optional complete. Also in the same house single to both parties. Notice to quit should in bedrooms for gentlemen or ladies, at from all cases be written, and, where not pretwo to five francs a night. Apartments sented by a huissier, its acceptance by the may be hired by the year, month, week, landlord should also be in writing. When or night; but always be particular that it is not interdicted in the lease, the right both parties understand the terms before to underlet is unquestioned. It is very you lake possession. You may also rent un- necessary to know in what houses one can furnished apartments, hiring furniture from safely engage apartments, as it sometimes the upholsterer's. The betterplan,ifyou are happens that apartments are taken, and in apartments, is to make a contract with several months' rent paid in advance, when, some restaurant to send you breakfast, and the landlord being in difficulty, his furnidine where you please. The best places for ture is seized, and sometimes sold off bea stranger are where they serve dinner for a fore the expiration of the tenancy. fixed sum, and not "i lat carte." You can Boarding-houses.-There is a large numfind plenty of such in the Palais Royal, ber of boarding-houses or pensions, both from 2 f. (with wine) up. It is a matter English and French. The price varies of great importance to strangers visiting from 200 to 350 francs for board and lodgParis to be well acquainted with the ad- ing inclusive. They are economical, but vantages and disadvantages of inhabiting in many instances far from being select or furnished or unfurnished apartments. The comfortable. Trench law, so perfect in many other re- Private Apartments and Hotels.-There spects, is very unsatisfactory between land- is always a choice of these to be had, owing lord and tenant, and is mostly in favor of to the departure of families, and for which, the former. We would impress upon our and for all matters concerning housereaders in all cases in which they engage agency, we strongly recommend travelers apartments to have every thing in writ- to Messrs. John Arthur & Co., 10 Rue Casing. The ordinary means of advertising tiglione, bankers, house and estate agents, apartments to be let consist of a yellow and agents to the British and American board to indicate that they are furnished, Embassies. This firm, established forty and a white one to indicate that they are years, give gratuitously every information nnfurnished. The prices demanded are and advice, and can provide parties with most elastic, and are in many instances every accommodation in the shape of apartruled by the appearance of the appli- ments. cant and its effect upon the conscience(?) The house of Messrs. John Arthur & Co. of the concierge or proprietor. Many of deals also in wines of every description the concierges are most mercenary, and, and of the best quality. although it is the custom to pay them from ten to thirty francs a month, and in some.4o0A PARIS. [FRANCE.-] PARIS Restaurants and Cafes.-The best are these establishments is from 25 to 50 francs Vefour's, Cafd Riche, A nglais, Voisin's, and per day, from 800 to 1400 francs per month, Ville de Paris. The cafes, as a general and from 9000 to 14,000 francs per year. thing, furnish only dejeuners a lafourchette, They are compelled to take you to any chocolate, coffee, tea, ices, and liqueurs. place in the suburbs, and are subject to The restaurants Voisin, Riche, Anglais, your order at all times. The second best Vefour, and Bignon are considered by carriage for hire is the cabriolet de remise, competent judges to have the best cooks which you can hire by the course or hour. in Paris; and Americans, when giving This is a class of carriage that stands unbreakfast or dinner parties, generally pre- der cover. The fare for the course is 1 f. fer these as being the best. The cafes are 80 c. or 2 f. 50 c. per hour, with a small an institution almost peculiar to Paris, i "pour boire" for the driver. After midhaving existed here for over a century and I night half a franc is added to these prices; a half. They are one of the most remark- also half a franc if outside the fortificaable features of the French capital. They tions. Voitures de place are the cheapest are to be found in every quarter of the carriages in Paris. Fare, by the drive or city, and generally decorated with much course, 1 f. 50 c.; by the hour, 2 f. Those taste and splendor. Those most brilliant- with four places, 1 f. 80 c. per course, and lv ornamented are situated on the Boule- 2 f. 50 c. per hour, with small "pour bo/re." vard Poissonniere, Boulevard des Italiens, Outside the fortifications half a franc per Boulevard Montmartre, Boulevard des hour is added to the above. If baggage Capucines, and Boulevard de la Madeleine. is carried, four sous each for trunks or When lighted up at night, it is diffi- large packages. After the first hour, you cult to describe any thing so perfectly en- are charged for the portion of the hour you chanting. Here it is that the Frenchman have the carriage in use, and not, as with is seen in all his glory, seated near a small us, for the full hour. On entering the cartable in front of the cafe, enjoying his cof- riage, the driver will hand you a card confee, his "petit-verre," his sugar and wa- taining his number and the different fares, ter, or his absinthe. Nothing can be more and pay accordingly. You had also better delightful than witnessing this splendid inform him whether you wish to take the scene. Every seat occupied outside and voiture by the drive or by the hour: " Coinside - men, women, and children, all cher a la course," or "Cocher al'heure." It either eating, drinking, smoking, or talk- would be well to take out your watch and ing. The blaze of light, the reflection of examine the time in his presence, stating mirrors, the clinking of glasses, and the what it is by your watch. All these little hum of conversations must surely amuse actions, although of seeming small importhe pleasure-seeker. There are also some tance, will be found very serviceable in setvery fine caf6s on the Boulevard Sevasto- tling, especially if you are in a hurry and pol, where, while you are enjoying your ci- the train is just leaving. When you get out gar, sipping your coffee, drinking your ale of the carriage, take out your watch, and, or liquor, you are amused by the singing of with the driver's card, make up his fare, some of the best vocalists of Paris. hand that to him, then his pour boire, and The Maison Klein, 6 and 8 Boulevard walk off, without giving him time to object. des Cupucines, is the first house in the Drivers are severely reprimanded for world for fancy bronze and Russian leath- any dereliction of duty, and, as a generer-same as at Vienna, 20 Graben. Mr. al thing, they will be found polite and Klein received the gold medal of the Paris honest. On the other hand, yearly reExposition, 1878, for the highest excellence. wards are given to encourage honesty in restoring articles found in their carriages. Carriages, Cabriolets, Hackney-coaches, Nearly every article left in public carand Omnibuses.-There are three different riages may be found next day at the Prestyles of carriage for hire in Paris: first, fecture. There are over 7000 of these the very elegant glass coach, or voiture de different carriages circulating through the remise, which may be hired by the day, streets night and day. Tramways are now month, or year, with coachman and foot- organized on nearly all the great thorman, or coachman alone. The price for oughfares. The Omnibus Company of Paris VOL. I.-O B05 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS, is generally considered one of the best or- and in the course of 500 years of the Roganized companies in existence; it has the man dominion Lutetia rose to be a place monopoly of all the lines, and pays the city of considerable importance, and became about $150,000 for the rent of the various the capital of N. Gaul. In the beginning stations. They run to all parts of the city; of the 5th century it suffered much from fare, 6 sous inside, and 3 sous outside. If the northern hordes, and ultimately fell you wish to diverge to the right or left, into the hands of the Franks under Clovis. the conductor gives you an exchange tick- who, having embraced Christianity, made et, called correspondence, gratis. it his residence in 508. Under his descendants it became the capital, first, of a kingdom of the same name, and then of People and History of Paris.-The in- the kingdom Neustria. In 987 a new dyhabitants of Paris have long considered nasty was established in the person of themselves at the head of European civil- Hugo Capet, from whose reign downward ization; and if such an eminence can be Paris has continued to be the residence of gained by mere external polish, they per- the kings of France. haps deserve it. In matters of dress and In the latter part of the 12th century fashion, the lead is conceded to them by a Philip Augustus mounted the throne, and kind of unanimous consent; and though built the Castle of the Louvre, and several their manners have suffered considerably churches; paved the streets, and inclosed by the stormy periods through which they a large part of the buildings with walls have passed, their native politeness has flanked with towers. The various schools not been lost. None succeed better in which had existed separately became united practicing the agreeable arts of life. under the common name of university, No city in the world has ever witnessed which now began to occupy a prominent such magnificent improvements as Paris place among the literary establishments under the late Empire-splendid streets and of Europe. Under Charles V. new walls boulevards from one end to the other, thor- and ditches were erected, with the view oughly lighted, drained, and paved. Pop- more especially of guarding against the ulation in 1877,1,988,806; circumference, inroads of the English, who made frequent nearly 22 miles. Its expenditures and re- incursions into the faubourgs. The forticeipts amount to nearly $50,000,000. fications failed to produce the desired efThe origin of Paris is involved in ob- fect; for in 1420, under the reign of Charles scurity; but the account to which most VI., the English made themselves masters credit appears to be given is, that a wan- of the city, and were not dislodged from dering tribe, having settled on the banks of it for sixteen years. In 1437 and 1438, the Seine, the lle de la Cite, to which they under Charles VII., it was ravaged by retired with their flocks and herds when pestilence and famine, and such was the any of the neighboring tribes made incur- desolation that wolves appeared in herds sions which they were otherwise unable and prowled along the streets. Under to resist, gave to this natural stronghold Louis XI. a course of prosperity again the name of Lutetia, meaning "Dwell- commenced. The area of the city extending of the Waters," while they them- ed over 1414 acres, and its population selves, for some reason not well known, amounted to 300,000 souls. took the name of Parisii. When Julius In 1470 the first printing-presses were Caesar conquered Gaul, he accordingly here introduced, and the Post-office was estabfound a tribe of Parisii, with a capital call- lished. Francis I. demolished the old Cased Lutetia, connected with the shore by tle of the Louvre, and commenced a new two bridges. They defended themselves palace on its site, rebuilt several churches, bravely, but were overcome; and Caesar, opened better communication between the after rebuilding the town, which had near- different districts, and made so many italy been destroyed, surrounded it with provements, that the whole city assumed walls, and farther defended it by erecting a different aspect. But the Reformation two forts at the extremity of the bridges. having commenced, and counted numcrThe Gallic were exchanged for Roman di- ous converts in all parts of the kingdom, vinities; civilization made rapid progress; bigotry and intolerance in alarm began to 306 PA RIS. [FRANCE.] PARPIs do their work, and the fires of persecution men, women, and children have been maswere lighted up. Paris, in consequence, sacred in cold blood, while others perished became the theatre of many bloody deeds, in their flaming dwellings. crowned at length, in 1572, during the reign The discontent caused among the popuof Charles IX., by the horrible massacre lace by the surrender of Paris to the Prusof St. Bartholomew. During these trans- sian foe had enabled a body of cruel and actions the city could not prosper; and, ambitious men to seize the reins of governthough some new edifices were commenced, ment, and to commit, in the name of Iibamong others the palace of the Tuileries, erty and Fraternity, every species of depit was not until the wars of religion ceased, redation and cruelty. at least, to be carried on openly, that the While this power reigned supreme in work of embellishment in good earnest Paris, life and liberty were hourly in danagain commenced. The Hotel de Ville ger, and the population, exhausted by the was begun, the Pont Neuf finished, great miseries and privations of the preceding additions made to the Tuileries, and many months, submitted apathetically to every new streets and quays built. The works outrage, too callous of results to rise and begun were completed, and many others shake off the yoke which oppressed them. undertaken, during the reigns of Louis XIII. and XIV., the latter of whom, not- We give a,hort account of the events withstanding his lavish expenditure at which occurred before and during the siege Versailles, was able to rival all that his of Paris by the Prussians, of the insurrecpredecessors had done for the embellish- tion of the 18th of March, of the rise of the ment of Paris. Louis XV. had contributed Commune, and the investment of the city his share of improvements, and Louis XVI. by the Versailles government, followed by was proceeding in a better spirit in the its assault and capture. same course, when the Revolution com- The war declared by France against menced, and with it the work of demoli- Prussia in July, 1870, was the beginning tion, which was carried on to such an ex- of the series of disasters. The long-suptent that some of the finest edifices in the pressed hatred of the two nations needed city were converted into ruins, and many but a slight pretext to cause it to burst of the most venerable monuments of art forth with great violence. This pretext completely destroyed. A stop was put to was afforded by the candidature of the this barbarism, first, by the Directory, and Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern to the afterward by Bonaparte, by whom, in par- throne of Spain. This candidature, supticular, many works, distinguished alike ported by the King of Prussia as "head of by utility and splendor, were undertaken the famiy, not as sovereign," was objected and completed. to by France, and thus was kindled the During the restoration of the Bourbons flame, only to be extinguished in rivers of the work of embellishment (lid not proceed blood. with much rapidity; but from 1830, when On the 15th of July M. Ollivier anLouis Philippe was called to the throne, to nounced in the Legislative Body the de1848, when the revolutionary spirit once termination of the government to declare more gained the ascendant and drove him war against Prussia, which declaration was into exile, Paris made wonderful advances delivered on the 19th to Count Bismarck, both in splendor and general prosperity. in Berlin. From this moment began the Since then it has been her lot more than misfortunes of France. The slight victoever to see bloody battles waged, and hear rious skirmish of Saarbriick (August 1st) the thunder of artillery roaring in her was followed by the terrible defeats of Wisstreets. semburg (August 4th), Worth (August Twice has she been besieged-once by a 6th), Mars-la-Tour (August 16th), Graveforeign foe, and once her own countrymen lotte (August 18th), and the crowning disrose in arms against her. Her streets have aster of Sedan (September 1st). From this been the scene of one of the most frightful moment nothing interrupted the Prussian and bloody revolutions which it has ever march on Paris, and on the 19th of Sep. been the lot of man to witness. Her altars tember the city was completely invested, have been violated, her palaces destroyed, and from that time, during the space of 307 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. four months and a half, received no news from the outer world except, at rare intervals, dispatches brought by carrier-pigeons. We give a short extract from a diary written during the siege, and relating the principal events which occurred: September 19th. Occupation by the enemy of Chatillon, Villejuif, Clamart, and Meudon. Departure of M. Jules Favre, Minister of Foreign Affairs, for head-quarters of the King of Prussia at Ferrieres, for the purpose of demanding an armistice to allow the elections for a Constituent Assembly to take place throughout France. September 20th. The bridges of St. Cloud, Sevres, and Billancourt blown up by the French. Return of M.Jules Favre to Paris, having failed in his attempt, and departure of M. Thiers on a mission to Vienna and St. Petersburg. September 21st. The Prussians occupy Pecq, Bongival, Choisy - le- Roi, L'Hay, Chevilly, Cachan, and Dugny, and their advanced guards appear at St. Cloud. September 22d. Demonstrations of admiration before the statue of the city of Strasbourg on the Place de la Concorde; also before the Hotel de Ville, to protest against the exorbitant demands of Count Bismarck. September 23d. Report of M. Jules Favre of his mission to Ferrieres; armistice only accorded on the surrender of Toul, Strasbourg, and Mont Valerien into the hands of the Prussians; conditions of peace, the cession of Alsace, with Strasbourg and part of Lorraine, with Metz, to Prussia. Slight advantage gained over the Prussians atVillejuif by Vinoy's troops. Prussian battery erected at St. Cloud. September 24th. The French government issue a proclamation announcing their intention to fight to the end. September 25th. The members of the diplomatic body remaining in Paris demand permission from the French Minister of Foreign Affairs to send dispatches through the belligerent lines, and send the same demand by courier to Count Bismarck. September 27th. Review of the Prussian troops by the king at Versailles. September 30th. Combat at Chevilly, L'Hay, and Thiais for the purpose of blowlng up the bridge of Choisy-le-Roi, which was not successful. October 1st. News received of the surrender of Toul and Strasbourg, producing 308 great discouragement. Provisions rising in price. October 2d. Decree ordering the statue of Strasbourg in the Place de la Concorde to be cast in bronze. Arrival in Paris of General Burnside, who had obtained a safe-conduct from Count Bismarck. October 4th. The Prussians throwing up earthworks with great activity to the south of Paris. October 5th. Cannonade from Mont Valerien on the Prussian works at Montretont, Garches, and Rueil. News received that the Prussians have entered Orleans. October 6th. News received of the progress of the Prussians in France, Mantes, Nemours, and Nevers being occupied. Demonstration before the HIItel de Ville of the National Guards of Belleville, about 9000 in arms, headed by M. Gustave Flourens. They demand the establishment of the Commune, a levy en masse of the whole nation, that a chassepot shall be given to every citizen, and that an appeal shall be made to all the revolutionists of Europe, and particularly to Garibaldi. The government not seeing fit to accede to all these demands, M. Flourens resigned his functions as commander-in-chief of the five battalions at whose head he was placed. The Prussian head-quarters are transferred from Ferrieres to Versailles. October 7th. Departure of M. Gambetta, Minister of the Interior, for Tours, in the Armand-Barbes balloon; ascension of another balloon, containing two Americans and a Frenchman. Proclamation from General Tamisier, commander of the National Guards, forbidding all armed demonstrations before the Hotel de Ville, with severe penalties. M. Flourens withdraws his resignation. October 8th. Demonstration of one thousand armed National Guards before the Hotel de Ville, again headed by Gustave Flourens. They demand the immediate establishment of the Commune de Paris, but, being opposed by another battalion of the Guards, they retire discomfited. M. Favre addressed the crowd, and was loudly applauded; also Generals Trochu and Tamisier, who appeared with their staffs. Arrival of a pigeon announcing the safe descent of M. Gambetta near Amiens. October 9th. Manifestation of National Guards before the Hotel de Ville to thank [FRANCE.] PARIS. the government for its firmness on the preceding day. First line of circumvallation completed by the Prussians, and second commenced. October 1oth. Firing from Mont Valerien on the Prussian works at St. Cloud and Sevres. Distribution of cards to the families of Paris specifying the quantity of meat to which each person is entitled, to be obtained once in three days. October 11th. Unsuccessful attempt of the Prussians to seize the redoubt of La Faisanderie, in front of Fort Vincennes. October 12th. Arrival of Colonel Lindsay from England with 500,000 fr. for French fund in aid of the wounded. Horseflesh eaten very generally; fowls and vegetables sold at very high prices. October 13th. Reconnoissance in the direction of Chatillon and Clamart. These two villages, with Bagneux, were taken by the Mobiles after four hours' fighting, who afterward retired in good order. Destruction of the Palace of St. Cloud by a shell from Mont Valerien. October 14th. Anniversary of the battle of Jena. Armistice demanded by the Prussians, and accorded, for the burial of their dead. October 15th. News of the arrival of Garibaldi at Tours, and of the appointment of M. Gambetta to the Ministry of War. October 18th. Count Bismarck's reply to M. Jules Favre's account of the interview at Ferriires published in the Journal Officiel, together with a rejoinder from M. Favre. Letter from General Ducrot denying having broken his parole, as alleged in London papers; he had delivered himself at Pont-h-Mousson as he had agreed to do, and only effected his escape after having constituted himself prisoner. October 20th. Night attack made by the Prussians on the French works in front of Montrouge, Bicetre, and Ivry, which was beaten off. Cannonade from Charenton and Valerien. October 21st. Sortie made by the French under General Ducrot, numbering about 6350 men, in the direction of Malmaison and Rueil. The fighting lasted from 1 P.M. until dark, causing severe loss to the enemy. The French at one time held the redoubt of Montretout, but were obliged to abandon it. October 23d. Allowance of meat reduced to fifty grammes (one tenth of a pound) for each person per day. October 24th. Capture of Chateaudun by the Prussians, after an obstinate conflict of ten hours. October 25th. Departure of a number of Americans from Paris by permission of the French government, and with safe-conducts from Count Bismarck. Mr. Washburne, the American minister, with his Secretary of Legation, Colonel Hoffman, and General Reade, Consul-general of the United States, still remain. October 28th. Bourget taken from the Prussians by a party of Mobiles and regular troops. October 30th. Recapture of Bourget by the Prussians, who take prisoners about 600 Mobiles and Francs-tireurs. Arrival of M. Thiers in Paris on a safe-conduct from the King of Prussia. Official news received of the fall of Metz. October 31st. Great excitement caused in Paris by the fall of Metz and the negotiations for an armistice conducted by M. Thiers. The lHotel de Ville invaded by the mob with cries of "Pas d'armistice!" Flourens arrives, places himself at the head of the mob, and proposes the election of a Committee of Public Safety. The members of the government are deposed by him, and kept in custody in the building. The 106th battalion of National Guards enter the Hotel de Ville and succeed in rescuing General Trochu, who afterward returns with a large body of troops and liberates the imprisoned ministers, when Flourens and Blanqui retire. Norember 1st. The government calls on the citizens to vote on this question: Does the population of Paris maintain, yes or no, the powers confided to the Government of the National Defense? Resignation of M. Rochefort as member of government. November 3d. The vote of confidence demanded by the government gives 558,196 for, and 62,638 against it, including the vote of the army. November 6th. Announcement from the government of the failure of the negotiations for an armistice, Count Bismarck objecting to the revictualing of Paris. November 8th. Departure of 160 foreigners from Paris-Americans, English, and other nationalities. 309 PAHIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS, November 11th. Rats offered for sale on the Place de l'Hotel de Ville for 7 and 8 cents apiece. November 14th. News of the recovery of Orleans by the French under General d'Aurelle de Paladines. November 18th. Establishment of a railway round Paris by the Prussians, by which their troops may be rapidly concentrated on any point. November 19th. Provisions becoming exorbitant in price. November 201h. Arrival of Count Bismarck's circular to the diplomatic agents of the North German Confederation concerning the negotiations for an armistice. November 21st. Circular of M. Jules Favre to the diplomatic agents of France, in answer to Count Bismarck. November 29th. Grand sortie made by the French. Operations began on the evening of the 28th by a violent cannonade from the French works on the northwest of Paris. At daylight L'Hay and Gare-auxBoeufs were attacked and carried by General Vinoy's troops, who retained possession for several hours, when they were ordered to fall back, a sudden flood in the Marne having prevented another part of the operations from being carried out. In concert with this attack, Generals Trochu and Ducrot had advanced to cross the river and engage the Prussian redoubts on the east of Paris; but the bridges of boats which had been established were unable to resist the force of the water caused by the sudden flood, and they were obliged to postpone the attempt, at the same time ordering General Vinoy to fall back to his former positions. November 30th. General Ducrot, having succeeded in crossing the Marne with his troops and artillery, attacked the Prussian positions, and, after twelve hours' fighting, held the whole plateau between Brie-surMarne and Champigny, along the east of Paris. Montm6ly, a height northeast of Choisy-le-Roi, was also seized by the French, but they were unable to retain possession of it, owing to the superior numbers of the enemy. A sortie was also made from St. Denis, where the French attacked and occupied the villages of Drancy and Groslay. From this day gas was cut off in all the cafes, restaurants, and private houses. 310 December 1st. The seventy-fourth day of the siege, occupied by both armies in carrying off the wounded and burying the dead. Dispatches of the 20th received from Amiens declaring that General Bourbaki, with 40,000 troops, was ready to act in concert with the army of Paris. December 2d. The French troops were attacked at daybreak by the Germans under the Prince of Saxony, and sustained their positions during three hours' fighting, after which the French began to gain ground, and, after a conflict of five more hours, drove them back to the adjoining woods. December 3d. Letter in the Journal Officiel from Monseigneur Bauer, chaplain of the Ambulance of the Press, stating that, the preceding evening, near Champigny, having advanced toward the Prussian posts to take up the wounded, the usual four calls to cease firing were sounded and obtained complete silence; he then went forward, and was immediately greeted by a sharp fusilade. This letter was signed by thirteen persons who accompanied the writer. Withdrawal of the troops lately engaged against the Prussians from their position on the heights; they recross the Marne and bivouac on the Bois de Vincennes. Prices of different articles of food rising continually: Butter, $5 per pound; a rabbit, $7; fowl, $6; a turkey, $18; a pigeon, $1 25; ham, 3 per pound, etc. Mortality during the past week, 2282. December 5th. Return of part of the troops from Vincennes to Paris. Cold intense, the thermometer marking 6~ below zero (Centigrade). December 6th. Publication by the government of a letter from General Moltke to General Trochu, dated Versailles, December 5th, stating the defeat of the Army of the Loire and the recapture of Orleans by the Prussians, with a proposal that General Trochu should send a messenger to verify the facts. General Trochu acknowledged the receipt of the letter, but declined sending any messenger whatsoever. December 7th. Arrest of M. Gustave Flourens, charged with usurpation of military functions, and with having incited, at the HBtel de Ville, October 31st, to civil war. Publication in several French journals of a manifesto from the Count do Chambord to the French people. PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. December 10th. Great agitation caused by the publication of two dispatches brought by pigeons, and dated from Tours and Rouen, containing bad news of the French armies. The dispatch from Rouen announced the occupation of that town by the Germans and their march on Cherbourg; that the people received them with acclamations; that Bourges and Tours were menaced, and that the Army of the Loire was defeated. The other dispatch contained about the same news. The pigeons were discovered, however, to have been part of a number which had been sent from Paris but a short time before in a balloon, found, later, to have been captured by the Prussians; the birds were but little fatigued, a suspicious circumstance, as the weather was dreadfully cold; and, lastly, one of the dispatches was signed by the name of a person at that time in Paris, and acting as one of the secretaries of the government. The birds being thus proved to have been sent by the Prussians, little faith was put in the dispatches they brought. December 11th. Arrival in Paris of four French officers, exchanged for four Prussians of equal rank; these officers, captured before Orleans, gave a good account of the Army of the Loire. Requisition by the government of all the coals and coke in Paris and the neighboring communes. December 15th. Notice from the government that after the present supply of flour has been consumed, nothing but the second quality of bread will be made. December 16th. Arrival of pigeon dispatches from Tours, dated the 5th and l1th, announcing the defeat and retreat of the Army of the Loire, and its division into two parts under Generals Chanzy and Bourbaki; the removal of the government to Bordeaux, and the occupation of Amiens and Rouen by the Prussians. December 17th. Prices at the Central Market: Fillet of horse, $3 20 per pound; dog, 60 cts. per pound; cats, $1 20 apiece; butter, $7 per pound; a turkey, $20; a rabbit, $6 to $7; vegetables very scarcea head of celery, 50 cts.; cabbage, per head, $1. December 18th. Arrival in Paris of M. Richard, sent by Steenackers from Tours, October 18th; going to Rouen, and thence to Versailles, he was obliged to live among the Prussians for a month before he could find an opportunity to swim across the Seine. Several animals at the Jardin d'Acclimatation sold for food, no means of sustenance remaining for them; two camels sold to a butcher for $800. December 21st. Note in the official journal announcing an attack made by General Trochu on the preceding evening on the enemy's positions at Bourget, Neuillysur-Marne, Ville Evrard, and La Maison Blanche; the loss was heavy. December 23d. The dreadful weather greatly impeded the military operations; the ground being frozen to the depth of a foot and a half, prevented the French from intrenching themselves in their positions. A gallant reconnoissance made in the wood of Clamart by the Mobiles of the Seine. December 25th. The cold intense; several Mobiles are frozen to death. December 26th. Night attack of the National Guard on the Prussians at Maison Blanche, in which the wall of the park, which protected the enemy, is leveled to the ground. December 27th. In the morning the Prussians began the bombardment of the forts of Paris. They have twelve batteriesthree at Raincy, three at Gagny, three at Noisy, and three at the bridge of Gournay. The firing continued the whole day on the forts at the east of Paris, from Noisy to Nogent, and on the plateau of Avron. Loss of the French, 8 killed and 150 wound ed. December 28th. Bombardment continued. Several thousand shells and bombs thrown on Forts Rosny, Noisy, Nogent, and Avron, and replied to by the batteries of Bondy. December 29th. The plateau of Avron evacuated by the French, owing to the heavy artillery brought to bear upon it by the Prussians. The latter establish earthworks at St. Germain, where they blow up the railway bridge. December 30th. Continuation of the attack on the forts, directed principally against Nogent and Rosny. December 31st. The Prussians having pushed forward their batteries, vast numbers of shells fall around Groslay, Bondy, and Noisy-le-Sec. The government distribute, for New-year's Day, in the twen311 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. ty arrondissements of Paris, 104,000 kilos of preserved meat, 194,000 kilos of dried beans, 104,000 kilos of olive-oil, 104,000 kilos of unroasted coffee, and 52,000 kilos of chocolate. Mortality, 3280 during the week. January 1st, 1871. A strong reconnoissance made by the enemy in the direction of Bondy repulsed with loss. This is the one hundred and fifth day of the siege. January 2d. The bombardment of the forts Nogent, Rosny, and Noisy continued with great violence, six hundred shells being thrown against Nogent alone. The two elephants Castor and Pollux, of the Jardin d'Acclimatation, killed by explosive balls, no means remaining for their sustenance; their flesh sold at $3 and $3 25 per pound, and found very tough. January 4th. The Prussians cannonaded Montreuil during the night, and the eastern forts during the day; Nogent alone received twelve hundred shells. Article in the Siecle stating that in the past week, from Tuesday to Sunday, twenty-five thousand shells have been fired on the forts, each weighing about one hundred pounds, and worth 60 francs apiece; little damage, however, had been done. January 5th. Cannonade of the forts of Nogent and Bondy continued. The Prussians begin firing from the plateau of Chatillon on the forts Montrouge,Vanves, and Issy, to the south of Paris, and several shells fall within the walls in the neighborhood of the Pantheon. The forts reply with great vigor to the enemy's fire. January 6th. Cannonade against the southern forts continued with great violence. Shells fall within the walls along the whole line from the Jardin des Plantes to Grenelle, destroying many houses and killing several persons. Indignation and hatred against the Prussians greatly increased. January 7th. Bombardment continued. The Prussian shells were at first supposed to have entered Paris by accident, in ranging-too high, but at present no doubt exists that every shot is intentional, as the projectiles nearly all fall in the neighborhood of the Military School, Invalides, and Pantheon, where gunpowder was believed to have been stored at the commencement of the siege. The Pantheon itself was twice struck. Prices at the market: Sal312 ad, $1 per pound; head of celery, 40 cts.; a turkey, $38; a fowl, $8; butter, $8 per pound; a rabbit, $9; a cat, $3; dog, 75 cts. to $1 per pound. January 8th. The bombardment continued, and answered regularly from the forts and ramparts. The inhabitants on the left bank of the Seine most exposed to the enemy's fire take refuge in the centre of Paris. Pigeon arrival from Bordeaux with dispatch from General Faidherbe of the 4th announcing slight advantages gained by him at Bapaume and Pont Noyelle. January 9th. On the night of the 8th, in the part of the city between Saint Sulpice and the Odeon, shells fell incessantly, destroying every kind of property, and killing women and children. In the Museum and Garden of the Luxembourg, which had been converted into an ambulance, twenty shells fell in the space of two hours. Women were killed in the streets and in their beds; in the Rue Vaugirard a children's school had four killed and five wounded; the hospital De la Piti6 received several shells, and a woman was killed in one of the wards; the military hospital of Val de Grace was also struck. All this had taken place without any preliminary notice being given of the bombardment. January 10th. The bombardment of the forts Montrouge, Vanves, and Issy continued, the latter seeming the principal object of attack. A series of works erected by the enemy at Moulin-de-Pierre, in front of Issy, destroyed by the French. January 11th. Several new batteries unmasked and directed against Fort Issy. Numerous shells fall round the hospitals of La Pitie and Sainte P6rine. An oficial decree is published, in which every French citizen in Paris struck by a Prussian projectile is assimilated to a regular soldier on a field of battle, and their widows and orphans are to receive pensions. January 12th. The fire continued against the forts, and also into the city in the neighborhood of Saint Sulpice; 250,000 persons have been obliged to leave the south side of Paris and take refuge in the centre of the city. It is officially stated that M. Jules Favre, who had decided to repair to London to attend the Black Sea Conference, has postponed his departure, owing to the unannounced attack on Paris. In the afternoon took place the funeral of five PARIS. [FRANCE.] PAsrs. little children of the Saint Nicolas Asylum who were killed by fragments of a Prussian shell. M. Favre, who was present, delivered an eloquent address on the barbarous manner in which the war was conducted by the Germans. January 13th. Bombardment continued. Ineffectual attempts made by the Prussians during the night on the trenches connecting the forts. The members of the diplomatic corps in Paris have addressed a note to Count Bismarck complaining that the bombardment of the capital had been begun without any preliminary announcement, usual in such cases, to enable them to provide for the safety of their countrymen. January 14th. A sortie attempted by General Vinoy against Moulin de Pierre was unsuccessful, as was an attack made by the enemy on Drancy. Mortality increased from 3680 to 4182. Fuel no longer to be obtained, except green wood; all public baths and washing establishments closed from inability to heat the water. Prices of food: Eggs, 60 cents apiece; a turkey, $40; a goose, $36; a fowl, $7; giblets of the same, $1 25; leeks, 3 cents apiece; a small head of cabbage, $1 25; very small carrots, 4 cents apiece; large ones, 20 cents; turnips the size of a walnut, 4 cents apiece; in the meat-shops dog is principally offered for sale, a cutlet costing 30 cents. January 15th. Bombardment still going on, and replied to by the forts and from the ramparts. Many shells fell in the southern part of the city, doing considerable damage. January 16th. The Pantheon struck by a shell; also the Church of Saint Sulpice, already reached by six projectiles. In the School of Law a shell pierced the roof, and, entering the lecture-room, destroyed the benches; the lectures consequently suspended. One projectile fell at this time within one hundred yards of the Seine, an immense distance within the city. Notice in the baker's shop that henceforward only 400 grammes of bread will be given to each person, and solely on production of a butcher's card. January 17th. Attack of the Prussians on Bondy repulsed. Several public buildings struck by shells-the Invalides, the hospitals of La Pitie and La Salp6triere, VOL..-0 2 the College Rollin, several barracks, the slaughter-house of Grenelle, and the Halle aux Cuirs. Vast crowds at the bakeiiee to obtain bread are obliged to wait their turn during several hours. January 18th. A great number of bombs were thrown into Paris during the night, and did considerable damage; the lialle aux Vins was set on fire, the College Rollin greatly damaged by three shells, the Jardin des Plantes, the Orleans Railway terminus, and the Central Bakery were also struck, besides innumerable private houses. An official decree rationing bread at 300 grammes a day for an adult, to cost 2 cents., and 150 at 1 cent. for a child; the first quantity is somewhat over half a pound, and the bread is of very inferior quality, composed of 50 parts of flour, 30 of rice, and 20 of oats. Great military movements during the day for a sortie to be made on the following night. January 19th. Long combat west of Paris, where the French, at 10 in the morning, under the command of General Vinoy, took possession of the Prussian redoubt of Montretout. On the right, General Ducrot, and in the centre, General Bellemare, attempted to seize Garche and La Bergerie, and menace the positions of Meudon, Chatillon, and L'Hay. The French became masters of Buzenval, and were gaining ground rapidly, when a large Prussian reserve, coming up with an immense amount of artillery, obliged them to retire. The bombardment continued throughout the day with less violence. Many shells were thrown into the city; one reached the Seine near the Pont Notre Dame, exploding as it touched the water. January 20th. Application for an armis, tice of two days made by the French for the burial of their dead, but refused. The bombardment continued with great violence. On the left bank of the Seine the Entrepot des Vins, the Polytechnic School, the Pitie, the Hospice des Incurables, the Luxembourg, and the Jardin des Plantes were all struck by shells, eighteen falling in the Jardin des Plantes alone. A shell also fell on the College de France, and pierced into the hall where M. Levasseur was delivering a lecture to a large number of students; happily no one was injured, and the lecture was continued without interruption. Arrival of a dispatch from 313 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Bordeaux announcing the defeat of General Chanzy at Le Mans. January 21st. In the morning a violent cannonade of the northern forts and of the town of St. Denis commenced; the old cathedral church was struck three times. A vigorous firing was also kept up on the southern side of Paris, replied to by the forts and ramparts. It has been decided by the Government of National Defense that in future the chief command of the army shall be separated from the post of President of the Government; General Vinoy is, in consequence, appointed Commander of the Army of Paris, Gen. Trochu remaining governor of the city. Public fires have been established in large rooms at different points in Paris, where women and children may go and take their meals in some comfort. Mortality still increasing, being 4465. In the evening a body of the National Guards of Belleville presented themselves before the Prison Mazas, forced the door, and liberated Flourens and seven other prisoners who had taken part in the attack on the Hotel de Ville on Oct. 31st; they then proceeded to the Mairie of Belleville and took possession, but later were obliged by superior forces to retire. January 22d. The bombardment of St. Denis unceasing; the town has been greatly injured, and the cathedral struck several times; the inhabitants are all removing to Paris. Two new Prussian batteries have opened fire, one at Clamart, the other at the entrance of Chatillon. The riot of Belleville was continued to-day before the Hotel de Ville, where about 150 National Guards attacked the Mobiles stationed before the building, but, after a short fusilade, they were obliged to retire, numbers being taken prisoners; in this attempt five men were killed and eighteen wounded. January 23d. The Prussian powder magazine at Chatillon was blown up by a shell from the ramparts. The bombardment against St. Denis was exceedingly violent, over sixty shells having struck the Cathedral. Publication of Count Bismarck's answer to the protest of the diplomatic corps now in Paris against the bombardment. January 24th. The circle of attack round the city is becoming visibly narrower, several new and effective batteries having been established. 314.January 25th. Confirmation of the re. port of M.Jules Favre's departure for Versailles, which had been rumored the day before. The fire of the Prussians greatly diminished. Publication in Journal Qfficiel of Prussian dispatches announcing the defeats of Generals Chanzy, Bourbaki, and Faidherbe. Great agitation in Paris, and all hope of succor from the provinces abandoned. January 26th. Notice in the Journal Officiel declaring that the government had considered it its duty to continue the defense so long as there was any hope of succor from the provinces, but that at present no aid could be expected from without, owing to the defeat of the French armies; and the supply of food being very low, negotiations were at present going on for an armistice. During its length the German army would occupy the forts, but not the city, and the National Guards would preserve their arms. January 27th. Proclamation from the government announcing that an armistice is about to be signed. The arms of the troops are to be given up (with. the exception of the National Guards), the officers keeping their swords; the enemy were not to enter Paris. A council of ministers at the Ministry of the Interior for M. Favre to give an account of his last visit to Versailles, where he is to return immediately to settle the preliminary arrangements. January 28th. Great excitement in Paris relative to the armistice, which is objected to by many. All firing from the Prussian batteries at an end. M. Jules Favre assistel in his negotiations by General de Valden, and Count Bismarck by Count Moltke. Resignation of General Ducrot as commander of one of the armies of Paris. January 29th. Publication in the official journal of the terms of the armistice, which was concluded Jan. 28,1871, after a siege which had lasted four months and twelve days, with one month of bombardment. The object of the convention is to allow France to elect a National Assembly to deliberate on the conditions of peace. All the forts around Paris are to be given up, and the ramparts disarmed. All the troops, including sailors, within the city are to deliver up their arms, and are prisoners of war, to be delivered up after the PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. armistice if peace is not signed. The National Guard retain their arms to preserve order. The German army will afford every assistance for the revictualing of Paris. The capital is to pay a contribution of 200,000,000 frs. before the 15th day of the armistice. The belligerent armies are to retain their respective positions, to be separated by a line of demarcation; the same arrangement extends to naval forces of the two countries. An official decree convokes the electors to nominate members for the National Assembly on the 5th of February for the Department of the Seine, and on the 8th for the rest of France. Great agitation in Paris, and dissatisfaction expressed at the terms of the armistice. Fort Montrouge handed over to the Prussians. January 30th. The majority of the forts delivered up. Mont Valerien visited by the Crown Prince of Prussia. Twentyfive thousand applications have already been made by persons wishing to leave Paris. January 31st. Works for the re-establishment of the railways going on rapidly. February 2d. A first train, containing flour, arrived in Paris from Rennes; another, from Cholet, brought 248 oxen, and another hay. February 3d. Arrival of M. Gambetta's decree from Bordeaux refusing as candidates for the Assembly all persons who had served under the empire as ministers, senators, councilors of state, or prefects, and all former deputies who had been official candidates. February 4th. Official decree annulling as illegal M. Gambetta's decree at Bordeaux. Arrival of a large quantity of flour and eatables from Dieppe and Dunkirk. February 5th. Arrival of the first train of provisions sent as a gift from England. Februarjy 7th. Announcement of the resignation of M. Gambetta as member of the government. February 8th. A protest published of the Count de Chambord against the bombardment of Paris, and also an address from the Due d'Aumale to the French people declaring his readiness to accept a seat in the National Assembly. February 14th. The result of the Paris elections to-day made known. Nearly all the deputies elected are advanced Repub licans, such as MM. Louis Blanc, Victor Huigo, Garibaldi, Gambetta, Felix Pyat, Rochefort, Delescluze, and Ledru Rollin. February 18th. M. Thiers named by the National Assembly head of the executive power under that body. February 26th. Signature at Versailles of the preliminaries of peace by M. Thiers and Favre on one hand, and Count Bismarck on the other. France is to cede to Germany Alsace, with the exception of Belfort; one fifth of Lorraine, including Metz and Thionville; and the payment of $1,000,000,000 as a war indemnity: also a part of Paris to be occupied by the Germans until the ratification of the treaty by the National Assembly. March 1st. Entry of the Prussians into Paris, who occupy the Champs Elysees as far as the Tuileries Gardens, and in the other direction from the Seine to the Faubourg St. Honore. All shops, caf6s, and places of amusement throughout the city closed in sign of mourning, and the faces of the statues in the Place de la Concorde covered with crape. No newspapers published. March 2d. Germans established in the Champs Elysees, but not allowed to pass the assigned limits, French sentinels being posted in every direction. March 3d. The treaty having been ratified by the National Assembly, the Germans began their departure at six in the morning, and shortly after ten the last body had passed the Arc de Triomphe, leaving Paris by the Avenue de Neuilly. The American residents in Paris were greatly indebted to their minister, Mr. Washburne, for his kind exertions during the siege on their behalf. Several attempts having been made to quarter Mobiles and refugees upon his compatriots, he protested with great firmness, and procured their immediate withdrawal. March 20th. The General Assembly, M. Thiers president, met at Versailles; Paris being in a state of insurrection against the government of M. Thiers, two generals, Lecompte and C16ment-Thomas, having been shot by the insurgents. March 26th. Election held in Paris, the Communist candidates being chosen, the Central Committee resigning its power into their hands. April 2d. First conflict between troops 315 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. of the Communists and those of the Versailles government. April 5th. The Commune orders a conscription of all male citizens between the ages of 17 and 35. The Archbishop of Paris imprisoned, and the churches of the Madeleine and Assumption pillaged. General Cluseret appointed the Communal Minister of War, General MacMahon being in command of the government troops. April 7th. The village of Courbevoie and the Bridge of Neuilly taken from the insurgents by the government troops. First shells thrown within the city in the neighborhood of the Arc de Triomphe. Bergeret deposed and thrown into prison, his post as commander of Paris being filled by Dombrowski. April 9th. Continued arrests of the clergy and desecration of the churches. April 12th. Decrees of the Commune forbidding the performance of religious service in the prisons, and ordaining the destruction of the Column Vendome. Seizure of the public treasures of the Paris churches. April 16th. Communist elections in Paris unfavorable to the Commune. April 17th. Important engagement at Asnieres, ending in the defeat of the Communists. The Chateau of Becon carried by the Versailles troops under Colonel Davoust. April 19th. Programme of the Commune published in the official journal. Heavy firing at Asnieres, Clichy, and Neuilly. April 20th. Modification in the composition of the Executive Committee; nine delegates named, viz., Cluseret, Delegate of War; Jourde, Finance; Vraud, Subsistence; Paschal Grousset, Exterior Relations; Franckel, Labor and Exchange; Protot, Justice; A ndrieu, Public Service; Valliant, Information; Raoul Rigault, General Surety. Twelve moderate journals suppressed. April 25th. Suspension of arms, to enable the inhabitants of Neuilly to withdraw to places of safety, lasting from nine to five. April 27th. Violent attack on the southern forts. The village and station of Les Moulineaux carried by the government troops. April29th. Procession of the Freemasons from the Hotel de Ville to plant their banners upon the ramparts. This act of bravado had been previously announced, the Freemasons stating that if their flag was 316 fired upon by the Versaillese they would join with the Commune in defending the city. Needless to say, no notice was taken of this foolish menace. April 30th. Fort Issy evacuated by the Communists, but reoccupied later in the day. Arrest of General Cluseret, who was suspected of betraying his trust; Colonel Rossel, formerly a captain of engineers, afterward a commandant in the Army of the Loire, appointed to the vacant post. Fort Issy summoned to surrender by the Versaillese. May 1st. Capture of the station of Clamart and the Chateau of Issy by the government troops; at the latter place the insurgents made a most determined although ineffectual resistance. May 3d. The redoubt of Moulin Saquet captured by the troops, but evacuated, owing to its exposed position. May 5th. The following decree was issued by the Committee of Public Safety: " Considering that the house known under the name of the Chapelle Expiatoire of Louis XVI. is a prominent insult to the first Revolution, and a perpetual protest of the reaction against the justice of the people, it is decreed that the chapel called Expiatory shall be destroyed." May 7th. Concert given at the Tuileries in the evening for the benefit of the wounded. Proclamation issued by M. Thiers to the people of Paris, calling upon them to aid in the restoration of order and tranquillity. AMay 8th. Evacuation of Fort Issy; news of the surrender posted on the walls of Paris by order of Rossel. May 10th. Resignation of Rossel as Delegate of War sent in a spirited letter to the members of the Commune. Ma!y 11th. Arrest and subsequent escape of Rossel. May 12th. Delescluze appointed Delegate of War. Destruction of M. Thiers's house decreed by the Committee of Public Safety. May 14th. Fort Vanvres evacuated by the insurgents. Dissensions occur among the members of the Commune. May 16th. The Column Vendome overthrown in the presence of the principal Communists. May 17th. Explosion of the cartridge manufactory in the Avenue Rapp. A large PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. number of persons killed and wounded. This accident ascribed by the Communists to Versailles agents. May 18th. Attempted sortie of the insurgents repulsed with great loss. May 20th. Cluseret tried by the Commune, acquitted, and set at liberty. Rochefort, having left Paris, was arrested at MIeaux and transported to Versailles. May 21st. Entrance of the Versailles troops into Paris by the gates of St. Cloud, Passy, and Auteuil. Citizen Assi arrested at the Point du Jour. Occupation of the Champs de Mars and the Icole Militaire. The interior of the city entirely ignorant of the entrance of the troops. May 22d. Delescluze, the Delegate of War, issued a proclamation denying that any gate of Paris had been forced, and declaring that if any such attempt had been made it was repulsed. The army of France employed in besieging the city estimated at 90,000 or 100,000 men, commanded in chief by Marshal de MacMahon, and by Generals de Cissey, Ladmirault, Douay, De Clinchant, and Du Barrail. General Vinoy commanded the Army of Reserve. Capture of the Arc de Triomphe, followed by the descent of the troops toward the Place de la Concorde and the new Opera, by the Champs Elys6es and the Boulevard Haussmann. Occupation of the Park Monceau, Trocadero, and the Invalides. Innumerable barricades erected by the insurgents; women and children employed in the work. Violent proclamations of the Committee of Public Safety. They appeal to the soldiers of the Army of Versailles. Cluseret, released from prison, is appointed to command at Montmartre; the command at Belleville and La Villette given to Dombrowski. Occupation of the Palace of Industry, the Palace of the Elysee, and the Ministry of the Interior. The troops received with acclamations by the population. Manifestation in favor of the government troops in the Rue du Bac before their arrival. Possession taken of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs by the troops of General Vinoy. May 23d. Investment and capture of Montmartre. Violent fighting in the Place Blanche and the Rue Lepic. Dombrowski wounded while defending the barricade of the Boulevard Ornano. After his death his remains were carried to the Hotel de Ville. Violent fighting in the Place de la Concorde. Capture of the Expiatory Chapel and the Madeleine. The insurgents, in retreating, set fire to the Rue Royale. The Palace of the Tuileries also set on fire and abandoned. Successful efforts made to save the Louvre. The New Opera and the Place de la Trinite taken by the troops, followed by the fall of the Place Vendome. The Bank of France happily escapes destruction. Terrible struggles on the left bank at the Depot Montparnasse and Montrouge. The Palace of the Legion of Honor, the Conseil d'Etat, and the Caisse des Depots et Consignations set on fire by the insurgents. Numerous barricades erected during the night. Assassination of Gustave Chaudey, one of the editors of the Siecle, and a hostage of the Commune, by order and in the presence of Raoul Rigault, procurator of the Commune. lay 24th. A large number of women arrested in the act of throwing petroleum and lighted matches into the cellars of the houses. The Porte St. Denis and the Porte St. Martin carried by the troops. The theatre of the Porte St. Martin burned to the ground. Raoul Rigault and Regere are charged, by order of the Commune, with the execution of the decree relative to the hostages. Six of these, the Archbishop of Paris, Abbe Duguerry, curate of the Madeleine; M. Bonjean, president of the Court of Cassation; Father Ducoudray, superior of the College of Jesuits in the Rue des Postes; Father Clercq and Abb6 Allard, chaplain to the ambulances, were shot in the court of the Prison of La Roquette. The Palais Royal set on fire by the insurgents. Occupation of the Faubourg St. Germain by the troops of General de Cissey. Capture of the Pantheon. Explosion of a powder magazine in the quarter of the Luxembourg, ignited by the insurgents by means of an electric wire. Capture and execution of Raoul Rigault, Procurator of the Commune, the same who had superintended the assassination of Chaudey. Bombardment of the insurgent quarters of the city from the heights of Montmartre. Conflagration of the Palace of Justice, the Central Markets, and the Hotel de Ville. May 25th. Capture of the Butte -auxCailles and the Gobelins. Fall of the Forts Bicetre and Ivry, taken by an assault of 317 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. the cavalry of General du Barrail. Assassination by the insurgents of the Dominicans of Arcueil. Execution of Milliere, a member of the Commune. Complete occupation of the left bank of the Seine and of the bridges. Fall of the Hotel de Ville. The members of the Commune remove to the Mairie of the 11th Arrondissement. Capture of the Mazas Prison. Attack of the Place de la Bastille and conflagration of the Grenier d'Abondance. Energetic resistance of the insurgents at the Chateau d'Eau. May 26th. Fall of the Place du Chateau d'Eau, after an energetic resistance of three days' length. Death of Delescluze, Delegate of War, in the Boulevard Voltaire. Capture of the Place de la Bastille and of the Faubourg St. Antoine. Fifteen more hostages murdered at the prison of La Roquette. May 27th. Advance of the army on Belleville, the Buttes-Chaumont, and the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. Capture of the Buttes-Chaumont. Mlay 28th. Attack and capture of Pbre la Chaise. Belleville finally subdued, and the insurrection conquered. May 29th. The disarming of Paris and the dissolution of the National Guards decreed by the chief of the executive power. May 30th. The city of Paris divided, by order of Marshal MacMahon, into four military districts, under the command of Generals Vinoy, Ladmirault, De Cissey, and Douay, and governed according to martial law. All wine-shops, caf6s, and restaurants ordered to be closed at eleven o'clock every evening. No theatre allowed to open without special authorization from the government, and the same required from every newspaper before it could be published. The preceding diary is only designed to acquaint the reader with the most important events which occurred during the siege of Paris by the Prussians, and subsequently under the Commune. For a fuller knowledge of what transpired during the terrible sieges which Paris has undergone, we can only refer the reader to any of the numerous histories with which the literary world has been flooded since that time. The Order of the Legio ofof Honor. This order was established in 1802. The emperor was then grand master. The grand master keeps the seal of the order, and is 318 assisted in his duties by a council of ten members and a secretary general. It has over 55,000 members, divided into grand crosses, grand officers, commanders, officers, and chevaliers. Nearly every crowned head in Europe is a member. The decoration is a star surmounted by a crown. In the centre of the star is a picture of Napoleon I. encircled with oak and laurel leaves, with the motto "'Napoleon, Empereur des Fransais;" on the reverse, "Honneur et patrie." The qualifications of admission are twenty years of distinguished service either in civil or military departments, but in times of war deeds of extraordinary valor may be rewarded by admission, or, if in the order, by promotion. All persons in the army or navy who have been admitted since 1852 receive pensions as follows: grand crosses, $600 per annum; grand officers, $400; commanders, $200; officers, $100; members, $50. All officers are nominated for life. Attached to the order is the Maison Nationale. This is an educational establishment devoted to the instruction of the sisters, daughters, and nieces of members of the order. It was established by Napoleon I. Four hundred pupils receive here a finished education at the expense of the government. They all dress in black, with black bonnets, and are subject to the most rigid discipline. To obtain permission to visit the Institute, address the grand chancellor of the order, Rue de Lille. Fortifications of Paris.-Paris is considered at the present time one of the best fortified cities in the world. In 1841 about $30,000,000 were granted for completing the present fortifications. At a distance of about one and a half miles outside the former octroi walls runs a wall about 47 feet high, bastioned and terraced; in addition to which there are seventeen outworks or forts, which include the principal suburbs of Paris, and command the approach in every direction. They are calculated for 2760 gun-carriages, 575 rampart guns, 2238 mortars or cannon, and 20,000 muskets. These fortifications have been greatly damaged during the two late sieges, and require a large amount of reparation. PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. High Court of Justice.-Established for the purpose of trying and judging persons accused of conspiracies against the state. It has two departments, a "Chamber of Accusation" and a "Chamber of Judgment." There is a jury of 36 members from the Councils General. Court of Cassation.-This is the supreme court of appeals on all points of law. It is presided over by a president, 3 vicepresidents, and 45 counselors. Court (fA ccounts.-This court has charge over all the receipts and expenditures of the country. It is presided over by a president, 3 vice-presidents, and 18 masters of accounts; a procureur general, a register, and eighty counselors, who examine accounts. Court National of Paris.-Divided into six chambers; four for trial of civil cases and two criminal. It is presided over by a president, 6 vice-presidents, 60 judges, a procureur general, a register, 6 advocates, and 11 deputy advocates. In one of the chambers is held the Court of Assize, which tries more serious offenses, entailing the punishment of death, etc. It consists of 3 judges chosen by the president. COURTS, TRIBUNALS, AND CIVIL Tribunal of Commerce.-Presided over ADMINISTRATION. by a president elected by vote from the Of this elaborate system of jurispru- most influential merchants, 10 judges, and dence, known as the "Code Napoleon," 16 deputy judges. Their jurisdiction exwe have not space to enter into detail; tends over all matters of a commercial nawe shall merely glance at one or two of its ture. departments about which our own citizens Justice de Paix.-There are twenty of know the least. This code, which was the these admirable courts in Paris, and much first uniform system of laws the French i they are wanted in our own country. No monarchy ever possessed, was formed per- action can be brought until the plaintiff has sonally by Napoleon I., assisted by the summoned the defendant before a juge do most eminent lawyers and enlightened paix, whose duty it is to try by all means men of the time. It was drawn with con- in his power to effect a reconciliation. If summate skill and wisdom, and remains failing, the case must then be tried. As to-day not only the code of France, but a general thing, two thirds of the lawof nearly all Europe. The police is the suits that otherwise would occur are avoidbest regulated in the world. Trial by jury, ed in this manner. The juge de paix has except in political causes, is the inestima- jurisdiction over all matters amounting to ble boon of every citizen. Justice be- $20 without appeal, and $40 with appeal. tween man and man is administered on He decides all actions between landlord sound principles by unimpeached tribunals. and tenant, travelers and lodging-house Education has become part of the regular keepers on loss of articles taken from business of the state. All schools, acad- rooms, damage of furniture, rooms, etc. emies, and colleges are placed under the Tribunal of Premiere rnstance of the Seine. Minister of Public Instruction, who pre- -This court decides all cases of appeal sides over the imperial counsel. The Min- brought from the juge de paix, and has juister of Justice presides over, and is the risdiction over all matters relating to per~upreme head of, all the courts. sonal property to the amount of $300. It 319 PARIS. [FRANCE.1 PARIS, is divided into ten chambers, presided over by 1 president, 8 vice-presidents, 56 judges, 8 supplementary judges, a procureur imperial, 22 deputy procureurs, 1 chief register, 42 sworn registers. It extends over the whole Department of the Seine. Tribunal of Simple Justice.-This court decides all breaches of the police regulations where the penalty is small. Council ofA rbitration (Des Prud hommes). -This is one of the most desirable and best regulated establishments in Paris. It was founded for the purpose of settling disputes between master and man in an amicable manner, and nineteen cases out of twenty are satisfactorily adjusted by the court. The council is composed of foremen and master mechanics, elected by the different trades, one half being employers and the other foremen. The different trades are divided into four classes, a council to each class, so that the most intricate dispute is decided by the custom of the trade. How desirable it would be to have such a court in our cities, as judges have to decide on matters of which, in many cases, they must be entirely ignorant. Mayors.-There are twenty mayors in Paris, one to each arrondissement, whose duty relates to the civil administration of the city. They sit every day from 12 until 2. The Prefect of the Department of the Seine is the head mayor. The Police.-The Minister of the Interior is the supreme head of the police; under him acts the prefect of police for the Department of the Seine, who is also president of the council of health, composed of 20 members, all of whom are surgeons, chemists, or physicians, whose jurisdiction extends over all the sanitary affairs of the capital. Paris is divided into 80 quarters; in each quarter resides a commissaire of police, whose duty it is to make the primary examination of criminals, and attend to the cleansing and lighting of their respective section. They are in continual communication with the people, attending with dispatch to all their wants. At night each commissaire has a colored glass lamp hung at his door. There are some two or three divisions of the administration, divided into some 15 different bureaus; each bureau has its different duty assigned to itsuch as strikes among workmen, children abandoned by their parents, licenses to 320 prostitutes, suicides, accidental deaths, gaming-houses, theatres and public balls, restoration of lost articles, watering and lighting the streets, public carriages, the sale of unwholesome victuals, repression of vagrancy, weight and measures-in short, every thing is so perfectly arranged and classified that the administration is like perfect clock-work, and Paris is today the best governed city in the world. Prisons and Correctional Establishments. -The former are nine in number, including the military prison, which is under the charge of the Minister of War. Several of these have acquired a dreadful rnotoriety from the deeds perpetrated in them during the fury of a great revolution. The principal ones are the following: La Force, which is reserved solely for persons awa1Ting trial. It contains 1200 separate cells, and is distinguished by its classification of prisoners, and its excellent sanitary regulations. Every cell has a led, gas-burner, and water-closet, with a good ventilation,' and an apparatus for the distribution of warm air. The cost of this establishment is about $20,(00 annually. St. Pelagie, recently converted partly into a political prison, and partly into a kind of hulks for convicts whose punishment is of short duration. St. Lazare, a great female prison for criminals committed for trial or for short duration; if for over that time they are sent to Maison Centrale. It contains over 1200 cells. There is also in this prison an infirmary for prostitutes, containing about 350 beds. It has generally an average of about 1000 inmates, and receives annually 10,000 prisoners. Depot des Coni dammes for criminals condemned to the hulks or to death, and remarkable for being at once light, airy, and healthy, and yet one of the strongest places of custody ever erected. The average number of prisoners is about 350. Maison Centrale d'Education Correctionelle, which has much the air and style of a feudal castle. This prison is for young male offenders under the age of 16 years, who are considered incapable of judgment. They are here taught some trade, and educated up to the age of 20 years. The prisons to which the most mournful interest is attached are the Palais du Temple, from which Louis XVI. was led forth to the scaffold; The Conciergerie, from which Marie Antoinette was led forth to PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. the same fate. The Military Prison, formerly l'Abbaye, the most gloomy of all the Parisian dungeons, and, during the Reign of Terror, a den of horrors. This last, as well as the Palais du Temple, have recently been pulled down, and two landmarks of despotism blotted out. Children born in France of A merican Parents.-The laws of France make it incumbent on every foreigner, as well as native, that three days after the birth of a child it shall be taken, either by the father or medical attendant, to the mayor of the arrondissement, and there have the birth properly registered. Two witnesses are also necessary to sign the register. Any person neglecting to comply with the conditions of the law is liable to fine or imprisonment. Any child born in France of American parents is entitled to all the rights of a native if claimed one year after becoming of age. Deaths of Americans in France.-In the event of death, notice must be given to the mayor of the arrondissement by the relatives or friends of the deceased. The mayor immediately appoints a physician, whose duty it is to ascertain the cause of the death, and the body can not be interred until an order has been given to that effect, and that only at the end of forty-eight hours after dissolution. The juge de paix may place his seal on the papers or effects of the deceased at the instigation of any interested party, and place them in the hands of a notary public. The sights of Parisfor fifteen days: 1st Day.-The boulevards; the docks; general view of Paris; Place de la Concorde. 2d Day.-Rue de la Paix and Rue Castiglione; Place Vendome; the Office of Justice; the Passages of the Opera, des Princes, Jouffroy, des Panoramas; the Bourse; Gate Saint Denis; Gate Saint Martin; Depot of the Strasbourg Railway; Barracks of the Chateau d'Eau; Boulevard Voltaire; Mayoralty of the 11th District; Boulevard Richard-Lenoir; the Column of July; Place of the Bastile and subterranean canal; Rue de Rivoli; Boulevard of Sebastopol and Boulevard du Palais. 3d Day.-Rue Royale; Saint Honore; the Tuileries (ruins and garden); Palais Royal (galleries and garden); the Louvre (battlements; the museums of ancient and modern paintings; museum of drawings); Saint German l'Auxerrois. 4th Day.-National Library; Square Louvois; Church of Saint Eustache; the Wheat Market; the Oyster Park; Central Markets; Square and Fountain of the Innocents; the ruins of the Hotel de Ville; the Louvre (museums of ancient and modern sculpture, Assyrian, Egyptian, and marine). 5thDay.-The Gaillon Fountain; Marche Saint Honore; the Pont des Arts; Palace of the Fine Arts; Hospital de la Charit6; Institute; the Library of Mazarin; the Pont Neuf; ruins of the Palace of Justice; Notre Dame; Hotel Dieu. 6th Day. - Boulevard Malesherbes; Church of Saint Augustin; Hospital Beaujon; the Park de Mouceaux; Russian Church; Barriere de l'Etoile; Arc de Triomphe; Champs Elysees; Palace of Industry; Diorama; Palace de l'Elysee. 7th Day. - Palace of the Legislative Body; the Invalides; Tomb of Napoleon (kitchens, Museum of Artillery); Champ de Mars; Military School; Fountain of the Rue de Grenelle; the Ministry of the Interior, of Public Works, of War; EtatMajor; Council of State; Palace of the Legion of Honor. 8th Day. —Rue de Rivoli; the Tower Saint Jacques la Boucherie; Fountain de la Victoire; Saint Michael Bridge; Saint Michael Fountain; Boulevard Saint Michael; Cluny Museum; Sorbonne; Col. lege of France. 9th Day. - Notre Dame de Lorette; Cemetery Montmartre; Bois de Bou. logne; the Artesian Well near the Gate of La Muette. 10th Day. - Chateau de la Muette; Church of Saint Sulpice; Mayoralty; 321 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Fountain of Saint Sulpice; the Luxembourg (palace, museum, and garden); Pantheon; Library of Sainte Genevieve; Boulevard Saint Michael. 11th Day.-Val de Grace; Observatory; Deaf and Dumb Institution; Wine Market; Botanical Gardens; the Arsenal (library); Place Royale. 12th Day.-Conservatory of Arts; Ecole Turgot; Church of Saint Nicolas-desChamps; Synagogue; the Temple; Square of the Temple; Market of the Temple; Archives. 13th Day.-La Petite Californie; Horse Market; Bicetre; Salpetriere; Hospital of the Quinze-Vingts; the Madeleine. 14th Day.-Mazas; Cemetery of Pere la Chaise; Place du Trone; Vincennes. 15th Day.-Versailles (museum, garden, and battlements). Sights of Parisfor eight days: 1st Day.-The Madeleine; Boulevards; Place Vendome; Court of Justice and the Seances; Passage de l'Op6ra; Passage des Princes; the Bourse; National Library; Passage des Panoramas; Gate Saint Denis; Gate Saint Martin; Conservatory of Arts Chateau d'Eau and Barrack; Column of July. 2d Day.-Bois du Boulogne; Champ de Mars; Military School; Hotel des Invalides; Administration of Foreign Affairs; Legislative Body; Church of Saint Glotilde; Church of Saint Germain des Pr6s; Palace of the State Council; Palace of the Legion of Honor; Bridge of Solferino; Garden of the Tuileries; Rue de Castiglione. 3d Day.-Boulevard Malesherbes; Park de Monceaux; Russian Church; Beaujon Hospital; Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile; Champs Elysees; Palace de l'Elysee; Palace of Industry; Place de la Concorde; Church of the Assumption; Church Saint Roch; Rue de Rivoli. 4th Day.-Church of Saint Eustache; Wheat Market; Central Markets; Square and Fountain of the Innocents; Tower of Saint Jacques de la Boucherie; Saint Germain l'Auxerrois; Palais Royal (galleries and garden); the Louvre (museum of ancient and moder painting; museum of ancient and modern sculpture). 322 5th Day.-Bridge of the Saints Peres; Palace of the Fine Arts; Palace of the Institute; Museum of Artillery; Fountain of the Rue de Grenelle; Church of Saint Sulpice; Fountain of Saint Sulpice; the Luxembourg (palace, museum, and garden); the Panth6on. 6th Day.-Pont Neuf; City Hall and Library, burned down during the Commune; Bridge d'Arcole; Palace of Justice; Tribunal of Commerce; Prefecture of Police; Notre Dame; Hotel Dieu; Fountain of Saint Michael; Cluny Museum; School of Medicine. 7th Day. - Wine Market; Botanical Gardens; Column of July; Cemetery of Pere la Chaise; Place du Trone. 8th Day.-Versailles (palace and gardens). For two days: 1st Day.-The Madeleine; Boulevard Malesherbes; Park de Monceaux; Russian Church; Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile; Champs Elyssees; Palace of Industry; Diorama; Palace de l'Elys6e; Place de la Concorde; the Garden and ruins of the Tuileries; the Louvre; Palais Royal (galleries and garden): National Library; Saint Germain l'Auxerrois; Palace of Justice; Tribunal of Commerce; Notre Dame; Tower Saint Jacques de le Boucherie; Fountain de la Victoire; Square and Fountain of the Innocents; Place de la Bourse; Boulevard des Italiens. 2d Day. -Place Vendome; Administration of Justice and of the Finances; Bridge de la Concorde; Palace of the Legislative Body; Administration of Foreign Affairs; the Invalides; Fountain of the Rue de Grenelle; Church of Saint Sulpice; the Luxembourg (palace, museum, and garden); Library of Saint Genevieve; the Pantheon; Botanical Gardens; Column of July; Place du Tr6ne; Boulevards; Chateau d'Eau and Barrack; Gate Saint Martin; Gate Saint Denis. For one day: The Madeleine; Faubourg Saint Honore; Palace de l'Elysee; Avenue de Marigny et Champs Elysees; Arc de Triomphe; Palace of Industry; Place de la Concorde; Garden and ruins of the Tuileries; the Louvre; the Palais Royal (galleries and garden); National Library; PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARTS Square and Fountain of the Innocents; Tower Saint Jacques de la Boucherie; City Hall; Tribunal of Commerce; Notre Dame; Hotel Dieu; Palace of the Luxemiourg (museum and garden); the Pantheon; Botanical Gardens; Boulevards; Chateau d'Eau and Barrack; Gate Saint Martin; Gate Saint Denis. Days and hours when the Museums, Monunents, and Libraries may be seen: Arc ds Triomphe de l'Etoile, at the place of the same name.-Address the Invalid of the Guard for permission to mount to the summit. A small pour boire is necessary. Arsenal, Rue de l'Orme, is not open to the public. Library of the Arsenal, Rue de Sully.Open every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, except on Sundays and holidays. Library of the City of Paris, at the City Hall, Rue Lobau.-Open every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, except Sundays and holidays. Library of the College of Law, Place of the Pantheon.-Open every day to the students from 10 to 3 o'clock, except Sundays and holidays. Library of the School of Medicine, Rue de l'Ecole de M1decine. - Open to the scholars every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, except Sundays and holidays, and in the evenings from 7 to 10 o'clock. Library of the Institute, Quai Conti, 21.Open only to academicians, or to persons introduced by one of them. Library of the University, at the Sorbonne, street of the same name.-Open every day, except Sundays and holidays, from 10 to 3 o'clock. Library of the Louvre, at the Palace of the Louvre, is not public. Permission to work there should be demanded of the Minister of State, by a letter indicating the cause of the request. National Library, Rue Richelieu, 58.Dpen every day to readers from 10 to 4 D'clock, except Sundays; open to the public Tuesdays and Fridays of each week at the same hours. Library of Mazarin, at the Institute, Quai Conti, 21.-Open every day except Sundays and holidays, from 10 to 3 o'clock. Library of Ste. Genevieve, Place of the Pantheon.-Open every day, except Sun days and holidays, from 10 to 3 o'clock, and in the evening from 6 to 10 o'clock. Bois de Boulogne.-The gates are always open. Bois de Vincennes.-This wood is always open. The Bourse, at the place of the same name, is open every day, except Sundays and holidays, from 1 to 5 o'clock. Catacombs are no longer open to the public. Two or three times a year a certain number of persons are allowed to visit them with tickets delivered by the Chief Engineer of the Mines, who must be addressed at the City Hall. Chateau de Vincennes. -Visible every day from 12 to 4 o'clock, with a permit from the Director of Artillery at the Administration of War. College of France, Rue des Ecoles.-Address the concierge (pourboire). Colonne Venddme, Place Vendome. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers.-The galleries of collections and machines are open gratuitously to the public Sundays and Thursdays from 10 to 4 o'clock; Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays the price is one franc. The library is open every day, except Monday, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Iotel de Ville.-Burned May 24th, by the Communists, at the entrance of the government troops. To be rebuilt. Hotel des Invalides.-Every day, except Sundays, from 11 to 5 o'clock, with a permit from the governor. There is mass every Sunday in the Church of St. Louis at 12 o'clock, with an accompaniment of military music. The dome and the tomb of Napoleon are open to the public on Monday and Thursday from 12 to 3 o'clock, and the other days from 1 to 4 o'clock, by permission from the governor. The gallery of the plans in relief of the principal strong-holds of France is only open irom the 1st of May to the 15th of June of each year, to persons with tickets delivered by the President of the Committee of Fortifications, at the War Department; Museum of Artillery. Institute of France, Quai Conti, 21.-Every day, except Sundays and holidays, from 11 to 1 o'clock. Institution des Jeunes-Aveugles, Boulevard des Invalides, 56.-Wednesday from 1 to 5 o'clock, with a passport from the director. 323 PARIS. LFRANCE.] PARIS. For the public exercises of music which take place four or five times a year, a ticket is necessary from the director. Botanical Gardens, Place Walhubert and Rue Geoffrey St. Hilaire. -Open every day from morning until evening. The Menagerie is open in winter from 11 o'clock until dark, and in summer from 10 to 6 o'clock. Jardin des Tuileries. —Open every day from morning until night. During the summer there is music every day at 5 o'clock. Jardin du Palais-Royal.-This garden, considered a passage, is open from early in the morning until midnight. Musee du Luxembourg.-Open every day, except Monday, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Mus e du Louvre. —Open to the public every day, except Monday, from 10 to 4 o'clock. The Museum of Painting is open for study every day until 6 o'clock in summer, and until dark in winter. Notre Dame.-The treasure is to be seen every day from 12 to 4 o'clock, by means of a ticket delivered by one of the priests for 50 c. Palais de Justice, Boulevard du Palais.Destroyed by the Communists May 24th. Palais de la Legion d'Ilonneur, Rue de Lille, 64. - Burned by the Communists May 24th. Rebuilt. Palais de l'Industrie, and Champs Elysees. -Open every day from morning until evening; to strangers after having showed their passports, or to persons furnished with permits delivered by the Minister of State. Palais des Beaux-A rts, Rue Bonaparte, 14.-Open every day. Palais des Tuileries.-The greater part destroyed during the civil war. Palais Royal. —Th galleries and the garden are open every day from morning until midnight. The interior of the palace is not public. Palais du Luxembourg.-Not visible, being temporarily appropriated to the transaction of Town-hall business. Parc de MIonceaux. —Open every day from morning until evening. Prisons.-Are only visible to persons furnished with a special permit from the Prefect of the Police. Sainte Chipelle.-To be seen every day, 321 except Sundays and holidays, from 11 to 4 o'clock, with a permit from the Minister of State. Sorbonne.-The amphitheatres are open during the hours of recess. They have nothing remarkable. The church is only open the entire day on Sundays and holi~ days; during the week it is open in the morning until 9 o'clock, and in the afternoon from 1 to 3 o'clock. To see well the tomb of Richelieu it is necessary to give a pourboire to the guardian. Theatres. —The theatres are all open every evening, with the exception of the opera and the Thea'tre Italien. The representations commence usually from 6 to 8 o'clock. The first theatre of any importance in Paris was Le Theatre Illustre, although theatrical performances were given in Paris 200 years anterior to this date. The company was formed by Moliere, the author. Louis XIV., being much pleased with their performances, assigned them a theatre in the Palace of the Louvre. Cardinal Richelieu built them one also in the Palais Royal. Theatres rapidly augmented during the reigns of Louis XV. and XVI.; in fact, there were so many that none of them were capable of paying expenses. Napoleon I. suppressed them all but nine, having compensated the others. Under Louis XVIII. there was an annual sum allotted out of the civil list toward the support of the principal theatres. After the days of Corneille and Racine the drama assumed a languishing position in Paris, until it was restored to its pristine glory by the genius of Rachel. Until the reign of Louis XIV. all female characters were personified by men. The immortal Talma was the first who inaugurated the present correctness in both dress and manners of the French stagre. All the theatres of Paris pay a tax to the government of ten per cent. of their receipts. In 1874 the income to the government from this source was nearly $200,000, while the government voted $300,000 to sustain the principal ones for the purpose of cultivating the classic productions of the stage, the knowledge of the Italian language, and the lighter styles of national music. The government also awards large premiums to the four best PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. pieces represented every year. There are now about 25 theatres, and 150 different places of amusement in Paris and vicinity, all of which are open during the summer season, made up of gardens, caf6-concerts, etc. They are all well regulated; guards and policemen furnished by the government outside and in. To secure seats during the day, you must pay twenty-five per cent. more than if vou buy your tickets in the evening; but it should invariably be lone, if there be any excitenent; otherwise you must fall into line, with two or three hundred persons in advance of you. The police arrangements at the theatre are so admirable that the least confusion is avoided. If you proceed in a hired carriage, it is necessary that you should pay before you arrive at the theatre to avoid delay at the door. If your carriage is called and you are not waiting, it must pass on and take its turn again. Gentlemen without ladies generally take orchestra stalls, or seats in the side balcony; with ladies, in the stalls of the balcony. The prices vary from $2 50 to fifty cents in the different houses. The principal places of amusement are, The New Opera House.-When in 1860 the erection of a new Opera House was decided on, 171 competitive plans were presented by as many architects. Out of this avalanche of projects, 43 were in the first instance retained by the jury appointed for the occasion; subsequent deliberations reduced that number first to 16, and then to 7, when Mr. Charles Garnier finally proved the successful candidate, and was intrusted with the herculean task. And, by the way, this eminent artist has, in the public mind, become so identified with the edifice that he now goes by the name of Garnier de l'Opera. Is not genius, in point of fact, to say the least of it, as good a title to nobility as mere birth? The new theatre covers nearly three acres of ground; the great Petersburg theatre (the next in point of extent), only one and one seventh. Its cubic mass is 4,287,000 feet; that of the great theatre in Munich (the next in point of bulk), 1,295,000. The warming is effected by 15 furnaces. The lighting consists of 9000 gas-jets, supplied by 45,000 feet of pipes-equal in length to about 10 miles. The reservoirs (in the basement and in the roof) providing against fire casualties are capable of containing 1,000,000 gallons of water. The New Opera House, when entirely finished, will have cost the nation, including every thing appertaining, 100,000,000 francs. When your eyes first meet the front of this leviathan pile, they are completely dazzled, owing to the multiplicity of objects-groups, statues, busts, and medallions, in marble, stone, and bronze-of which it is composed, and the variety of colors, and profusion of gold; and it takes some time before you can command the power of analyzing each part singly and forming a judgment of the tout ensemble, as regards character, appropriateness, taste, proportions, and harmony. The absence of a principal entrance has by competent critics been pronounced a flaw. The two sloping carriage-ways toward the west lead up to the Pavilion de l'Empereur, so called from its having been planned and arranged for the exclusive use of the imperial party, its retinue, livery, and military escort. About a hundred people and fifty horses were to find accommodation there. 325 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. The arrangement of the various departments of this immense establishment leaves no requirement whatever ungratified. The splendor of the interior decorations is beyond description. These have not, of course, been able, any more than the rest, to escape criticism; yet we rather think, upon the whole, that the general public, and more particularly such persons as were privileged to enjoy the unique and indescribable sight of the inauguration, will unanimously return a favorable verdict on the merits of the New Opera House, and look upon it as the " wonder of the day." At any rate, the splendid result is due to the combined labor of none but firstrate artists-such as Garnier, Baudry, Carpeaux, Violet, etc. A new and beautiful street, Avenue de l'Opera, was opened in 1878, running from the Opera House to the Tuileries. Theatre de l'Op4ra Comique, Place des Italiens, capable of accommodating 1800 persons. To every other box there is a small saloon, where refreshments may be had between the acts. The air is supplied from the cellar, where, in summer time, it is cooled by ice; the foul air finding egress from openings in the ceiling. This house receives $50,000 from the government per annum for the purpose of encouraging the lighter styles of national music. Theatre FranFais, or Comedie Franyaise. -The performances at this theatre are considered the standard for the whole country, and the government devotes $50,000 annually to the maintenance of the legitimate drama at this establishment. It is situated on Rue Richelieu, at the Palais Royal. Dumas's, Scribe's, and formerly Victor Hugo's productions were brought out here in very fine style. The theatre is capable of accommodating 1200 persons. Prices of admission are, highest price, $1 80; lowest, 50 cents. Theatre de l'Odeon, or second Theatre Francais.-This is one of the most magnificent houses in Paris, and is capable of holding 1600 persons. A national and essentially literary establishment, it receives from the government a subsidy of $12,000, with rent free. The late emperor had here a private box, and his majesty, as well as the empress, often sanctioned with 826 their presence the many successful productions which have of late years been brought out at this magnificent place of amusement. Under the intelligent direction of the then manager, M. de la Rounat, it proved not an unworthy rival of the first Theatre Fran9ais in a series of remarkable plays, often due to the pen of writers heretofore unknown, whom M. de la Rounat, in the true spirit of an artist, welcomed to his stage. One of these plays, Le Testament de Cesar Girodot, was performed two or three hundred times, and Le Mlarquis de Villemer, by George Sand, met with unprecedented success, drawing nightly crowded audiences for several consecutive months. Theatre Cluny, near the Musee de Cluny. Theatre Lyrique. Burned during the seven days' combat in the streets of Paris, May, 1871. Restored. Theatre du Gymnase, situated on the Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, opened in 1820, under the patronage of the Duchesse de Berri. It was in this house that the works of Scribe were first presented to an admiring public. Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, on the Boulevard St. Martin. This theatre was burned to the ground during the terrible seven days' conflict between the Communists and government troops. Since rebuilt. Theatre Renaissance, adjoining the last. Theatre du Vaudeville, Boulevard des Capucines, devoted to the production of vaudevilles. The company is very fine. The house is capable of holding 1200 persons. Theatre des Varietes, Boulevard Montmartre, capable of holding 1200 persons. The company is very good. Theatre de P Ambigu Comique, Boulevard St. Martin, for the production of melodramas and vaudevilles. The house is large, capable of holding 2000 persons. Theatre du Palais Royal, formerly Theatre Montansier, situated at the northwest corner of the Palais Royal; has an excellent company, but is very small. Vaudevilles and farces only are produced here. Thdetre du Chateau d'Eau, formerly Cirque du Prince Imperial, 50 Rue de Malte, for the representation of military pieces and vaudevilles. Company excellent. PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, Rue de Bondy, No. 40. Burned at the fall of the Commune. Rebuilt. Theatre de la Gaute, Boulevard du Temple.-Melodramas and vaudevilles are produced here. The house will hold nearly 2000 persons. Theatre Beaumarchais, Boulevard Beaumarchais. Theatre des Funambules, Boulevard de Strasbourg. - Performances here consist of rope-dancing and other gymnastic exercises, with a clown. Prices, 30 cents and 5 cents. Cirque d'Hiver, formerly Napoleon, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, open only in the winter season. It is one of the largest and most beautiful circuses in the world. Performances are exclusively equestrian, and very good. Prices, 2 frs. and 1 fr. 50c. Cirque d'Ete, formerly de l'Imperatrice, a beautiful polygonal building, capable of holding 6000 persons. It is situated in the Champs Elysces, near the fountains of Rond Point. There are numerous smaller theatres, such as the Folies Nouvelles, Bergere, Menus-Plaisirs, the performances of which are announced in all the daily journals. Concerts and balls are also given nearly every evening at the Valentino; audience "mixed." For a long time there has been felt in Paris the need of an International Club, in every sense of the word, which would offer to strangers, members of the first clubs of their respective countries, a place of reunion during their stay in Paris. This void has recently been filled by the opening, at No. 6 Boulevard des Capucines, over the Grande Maison de Blanc and close to the Grand Opera, of the International Club, or Cercle International. It is conducted on a magnificent scale, its reading, reception, music, dining, billiard, and card rooms being of the highest elegance, while the cuisine, attendance, and other attractions are of the first quality, with the finest private apartments, bath-rooms, etc. On the committee and member-list are some of the first names of France and foreign countries. Strangers, wishing to join, must be presented by two members, and will be voted on within five days by the committee. There are concert-rooms, spectacle concerts, and puppet-shows; but nothing of importance to occupy the time of a traveler, if we except the numerous caf6s-concerts, or caf6s-chantants, open on the Boulevard du Temple in winter, and the Champs Elvsees in summer. Here you are accommodated in the open air with something to eat or drink, while listening to scraps of operas or songs. There is no ticket of admission necessary, but every person, on entering, is expected to order some refreshments. Some of the performers occasionally pass through the audience to collect a trifle from the pleased listener. Theatre Nationaldu Chdtelet.-This house will hold 3500 people. It was finished in 1862. Representations every evening. Theatre des Fantaisies Parisiennes.Founded in 1866. Folies-Marigny, on the Champs Elysees. Theitre Bouffes-Parisiens. 327 PARIS.' [FRANCE.] PARIS. Concerts.-Concerts of the Conservatoire de Musique take place every fortnight, from January until April, at 2 Rue Bergere. The music here is chiefly instrumental, and the selections are taken from the celebrated classic composers, quality, not quantity, being alone considered. Concerts des Champs Elysees take place every evening during the summer season. Concerts du Chalet des Iles in the Bois de Boulogne, open several times a week during the summer. Concerts du Casino, 16 Rue Cadet.Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Besides these there are other concerts at which nearly all the leading musicians of every country may be heard: these are, the Salle Erard, 13 Rue de Mail (the finest); the Salle Pleyel, 22 Rochechouart, and the Salle ITerz, 38 Rue de la Victoire. Clubs.-Among the numerous first-class clubs of Paris is the Franco-Americain, formerly "Washington Club;" it has, without exception, the very best position in Paris. Its balconies face the Place de l'Opera, the New Opera House, Grand H6 -tel, Boulevard des Capucines, Rue de la Paix, the new Avenue de 1'Opera, Rue Auber, etc. It is an elegant resort for the better class of Americans visiting Paris, and to Americans in good standing in clubs in the United States. Admission is easy. New names are entered one week as visitors gratis; then, if acceptable, there are small monthly and tri-monthly dues, after which time applicants must be balloted for and become yearly members. Near the American Club, in the Rue Neuve des Capucines, is the office of Dr. Warren (Bey), a most eminent physician. Public Balls. —Bal Wagram, Ancienne Maison Dourlans, 41 Avenue Wagram, near the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile. Dancing every night in the gardens or in the hall, according to the weather. Every Thursday grand f6te, illumination, fire-works. Cafe Glacier, open through the day. 28 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Games of every description, shooting-gallery. The admission is free. 6000 persons can be accommodated in the magnificent new hall and gardens, which are the largest in Paris. In winter the Bals MIasques de 1'Opera take place every Saturday night, beginning in the middle of December and continuing until Mlardi gras, or the Tuesday before Ash-Wednesday. At the Casino there are balls on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. This is not a place where gentlemen can take their wives or sisters. The 3Mabille, or Jardin des I'leurs, should be visited in the evening. Every thing that taste and skill could do has been done to make it a fairy scene of enchantment. In a beautiful semicircular building is seated a well-conducted orchestra, around which the " gayest of the gay" whirl themselves through the mazes of the waltz, pol-ka, and mazourka. As the dances are, as a general thing, considered a little loose, it is unnecessary to say the gentleman traveler is not expected to join in the amusement of the dancers, although we see no harm in looking on if in company with married ladies. It may hte that "chilling reserve" is not a characteristic of the ladies who frequent these gardens; still, every thing is conducted with a proper regard for public decency. Recesses, bowers, and groves every where meet the eye, while multitudes of gas-lights twinkle through the grass, or illuminate the Chinese lanterns festooned from the trees. You have also a shooting-gallery, Clinese billiardtables, a cafe and restaurant, where you may enjoy your coffee, beer, wine, or cigars; admission, 2- francs. The Closerie des Lilas, which in winter season takes the name of Prado, is a ballroom mostly frequented by the students of the Latin Quarter, where they meet their fair but frail companions; dancing Mondays, Thursdays, and Sundays. Steamboats.-Small steamboats ply regularly between Paris and Saint Cloud during the summer season, starting from the Quai d'Orsay. Fare, 1 franc. A service of omnibus steamboats was formed between Paris and Saint Cloud in 1866. Railways. -Paris is the head of eight lines of railway belonging to five comVOL. I.-P panies. The Chemin de fer de Ceinture, which does not extend beyond the city, is conducted by a common magistrate. Chemin de fer de Ceinture, Central Administration, Rue d'Amsterdam.-This railway unites the depots of the Chemins de l'Ouest, du Nord, de l'Est, de Lyon, and d'Orleans. Ch/emins defer de l'Est, Railway Station on the Place de Strasbourg, at the upper extremity of the Boulevard of the same name.-The direct line from Paris to Mulhouse has an especial depot, situated on the left and behind the principal building. The Railway de Vincennes and de la Varenne Saint Maur, which belongs also to the Company de 1'Est, has its particular d6pot on the Place de la Bastille. 1st Central L'ureau, 7 and 9 Rue du Bouloi. 2d Central Bureau, 34 Boulevard Sebastopol, and 47 and 49 Rue Quincampoix. 3d Central Bureau, Place de la Bastille (d6 -pot of the Railway de Vincennes). 4!h Central Bureau, 6 Place Saint Sulpice. Special omnibuses at each bureau. Chemins de fer de Lyon et de la Mlfdierranee.-Railway Station on the Boulevard Mazas, at the end of the Rue de Lyon. Bureaux.-44 Rue Neuve des Mathurins; 1 Rue Rossini; 6 Rue Coq Heron; 59 Rue Bonaparte, and 12 Place Saint Sulpice; 5 and 7 Boulevard de Strasbourg; 6 Rue Rambuteau. Omnibuses leave these bureaux for the depot before the departure of each train. Chlemins defer du Neord.-Railway Station, 18 Place Roubaix. Bureaux.-Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli; Rue Saint Martin, impasse de la Planchette; Hotel Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli; Hotel Bedford, 17 and 19 Rue de l'Arcade; iHotel de Lille et d'Albion, 211 Rue St. Honors; 59 Rue Bonaparte; 33 Boulevard de S6bastopol; Hotel des Trois Empereurs, 170 Rue de Rivoli; 6 Place de la Bourse; 3 Rue Chariot. Omnibuses for the d6pht may be found at each of these stations. Chemins defer d'Orlatns.-Railway Station, 7 Boulevard de l'Hopital. Bureaux.-130 Rue Saint Honor6; 8 Rue de Londres; 5 Rue Le Pelletier; 7 Rue de Babylone; 28 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires; 30 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth; 6 Place Saint Sulpice; 7 Place de la Madeleine. 329 PARIS. [FRANCE. ] PARIS. Chemins defer de l'Ouest.-Lines of Nor- length, from the Gate Saint Martin to the mandie, Auteuil, Versailles, St. Germain, Gate Satnt Denis); on the right, Rue du and Argenteuil Station, 124 Rue Saint La- Faubourg St. Martin, Boulevard de Straszaro and 9 Rue d'Amsterdam. bourg et Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis; Lines of Bretagne and Versailles Sta- on the left, Rue Saint Martin, Boulevard tion, 44 Boulevard Montparnasse. de Sebastopol et Rue Saint Denis. Bureaux.-For the d6pot Saint Lazare, The Boulevard Bonne NVouvelle (379 yards, Place de la Bourse; Boulevard Bonne from the Rue St. Denis to the Rue du FauNouvelle; Pointe Sainte Eustache; Place bourg Poissonniere); on the right, Palace du Chatelet (one departure only for the Bonne Nouvelle, of which the cellars are last trains after the close of the theatres); occupied by a market, the ground floor by 2 Place Saint Andr6 des Arts. a large bazaar, and the upper stories by For the d6pot Montparnasse, 2 Place the Cafe de France, Theatre du Gymnase; du Palais Royal; Place de la Bourse; Rue on the left, Rue Notre Dame de Bonne Saint Martin; 4 Rue Bourtibourg. Nouvelle, in which is also a church of the Chemin de fer de Sceaux et d'Orsay. - same name. Railway Station at the former Barriere The tBoulevard P issonni&re (379 yards in d'Enfer. length): on the right, Bazaar du Voyage, Special omnibuses, 4 Rue Drouot; 19 Maison Barbedienne for bronzes, RestanuRue de Clichy, by the Place des Victoires rant Vachette; on the left, Stores du Proet la Bourse; Place Saint Sulpice, and 130 phbete, Des tapis d'Aubusson, and Bazaar Rue Saint Honore, by the Pont Neuf. of French Industry. The omnibus lines A. G., J., A. F., and The Boulevard Montmartre (273 yards in the Montrougiennes, conduct from all points length, from the street Montmartre to the of Paris to the depot. streets Drouot and Richelieu); splendid caf6s on the -'ight and left; on the left, The Boulevards.-The most frequented Theatre des Varietes, Passage des Panoof the Boulevards of Paris extends, under ramas, Rue Vivienne, Messrs. Goupil and different names, from the Bastile to the Co.'s store of engravings, and the Petit Madeleine. It comprehends starting from Journal. the Bastile. The Boulevard des Italiens (596 yards The Boulevard Beaumarchais (759 yards long, from the streets Drouot on the right in length, from the Colonne de Juillet to and Richelieu on the left to the Pavilion the Rue Saint S6bastien on the right, to de Hanovre on the left and the Rue de la the Rue du Pont aux Choux on the left); Chausee d'Antin on the right) is the renon the right, houses built on lands belong- dezvous for Parisian fashion: on the right ing to the Hotel Beaumarchais; on the side, exhibition-rooms of the Disderi pholeft, small Hotel de Ninon de l'Enclos, tographs; Theatre Cleverman, successor Theatre Beaumarchais, recently restored of Robert Houdin and Hamilton; Passage and enlarged; also the streets du Pus de de l'Op6ra; Rue le Pelletier, in which is the la Mule, Saint Gilles, and des Tournelles. principal entrance to the Opera; Rues LaThe Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire (325 fitte and Taitbout; Caf6 Riche; Restaurant yards in length). Tortoni; Restaurant of the Maison-Dor6e; The Boulevard du Temple (542 yards in Theatre des Fantaisies Parisiennes, No. length): on the right, Cirque National, 26; house of the armorer Devisme, Rue du Boulevard Voltaire; Boulevard des Aman- Helder and the Caft Foy: on the left side, diers; Rue du Faubourg du Temple, Bar- Cafe Cardinal; Passage des Princes; Caf6 rack of Chateau d'Eau; on the left, Turc du Grand Balcon, behind which is the Garden, Theatre Dejazet, Passage Ven- Opera Comique; Rues de Choiseul and de dome, Theatre Robin. la Michodibre, leading to the Theatre ItalThe Boulevard Saint Martin (700 yards ien and the Pavilion de Hanovre, occupied long): on the right, Fountain du Chateau by the jeweler Christophle, on the cornet d'Eau, Boulevard de Magenta, Grande Caf6 of the Rue Louis le Grand. de Paris, Theatres des Folies Dramatiques, The Boulevard des Capucines (542 yards de lAmbigu et de la Porte Saint Martin. in length, from the Pavilion de Hanovre The Boulevard Saint Denis (271 yards in and the Rue de la Chauss6e d'Antin to the 330 PARIS, [FRANCE.] PArIS. Rue du Luxembourg); on the left, photo- bank), the Boulevard de la Gare, from the graphic saloons of Mayer and Pierson, Wharves de la Gare and d'Austerlitz to the confectioner Boissier, stores de Tahan, Rue d'Austerlitz; the Boulevard d'Ivry, Rue de la Paix, stores of Alphonse Gi- from the Rue d'Austerlitz to the route de roux, in the place of the former Hotel des Choisy and the Place de la Barriere d'ItaAffaires Etrangbres; on the right, the new lie; the Boulevard d'Italie, from the Place Opera, the Grand Hotel, the Jockey Club, d'Italie to the Rue de la Santi; the Bouetc. levard Saint Jacques, from the Rue de la The Boulevard de la Madeleine (217 yards Santa to the Place de la Barriere d'Enfer; in length); on the left, Cit Vinde, stores the Boulevard d'Enfer, from the Place of Le Goupy, Gouache, des Trois Quarti- d'Enfer to the Boulevard Montparnasse; ers, mourning store of Salute Madeleine; the Boulevard de MIontrouge, from the Bouon the right, Rues de Seze, Gaudot de levard d'Enfer to the Place de la Barriire Mauroy, and de la Ferme des Mathurins; du Maine; the Boulevard de Vaugirard, at the end of the boulevard is the Place from the Place du Maine to the Rue de de la Madeleine, surrounding the church Sevres and the Avenue de Breteuil; the of the same name. Boulevard de Grenelle, from the Rue de The new roads formed by the reunion Sevres to the Wharves d'Orsay and de of the old exterior boulevards with other Grenelle. streets are (on the right bank): The old interior boulevards of the left The Boulevard de Bercy, from the bank are: the Boulevard de l'Hpital (1552 Wharves de Bercy and de la Rapee to the yards), beginning at the Place Walhubert, Rue de Charenton; the Boulevard de Reu- between the Botanical Gardens on the illy, from the Rue de Charenton to the right, and the depot of the Chemin de fer Rue Picpus; the Boulevard de Picpus, from d'Orleans on the left (on the right, Boulethe Rue de Picpus to the Cours de Vin- vard Saint Marcel, and church of the same cennes; the Boulevard de Charonne, from name; on the left, Abattoir de Villejuif); the Cours de Vincennes to the Rue des the Boulevard des Gobelims (927 yards), a Rats, and Boulevard de Philippe Au- continuation of the Boulevard de l'Hopiguste; the Boulevard Menilnontant, from tal, and united to the old Boulevard exterithe Rue des Rats to the Rue Oberkampf eur d'Italie; the Boulevard Saint Jacques and to the Chaussee de Menilmontant; (980 yards), from the Rue de la Glacieire tile Boulevard de Belleville, from the to the ancient Barriere d'Enfer, and to Chaussee de Menilmontant to the Rues which have been united the Boulevards de du Faubourg, du Temple, and de Par- la Glaciere, de la Sante, and d'Arcueil (on is; the Boulevard de la Villette, from the this last is the railway station of the CheRues du Faubourg, du Temple, and de min de fer de Sceaux); the Boulevard Paris, to the Rues de Cha'teau Landon and d'Enfer (920 yards), lost during a great des Vertus; the Boulevard de la Chapelle, part of its extent in the old Boulevard de from the Rues Chateau Landon and des MAontrouge; the Boulevard du Montparnasse Vertus to the Boulevard de Magenta and (1877 yards); on the left, railway station to the Rue des Poissonuiers; the Boulevard of the Chemins de fer de l'Ouest et de Verde Rochechouart, from the Rues du Fau- sailles, and the Chaussee du Maine; the bourg Poissonniere and des Poissonniers Boulevard des Invalides (1354 yards), formto the Rue and the (Chaussee des Martyrs; ing the prolongation of the preceding bou-.the Boulevard de C'ichy, from the Rue and levard, and ending at the junction of the the Chaussee des Martyrs to the place of Rue de Grenelle Saint Germain with the the ancient barrier of Clichy; the Boule- corner of the Esplanade des Invalides vard des Batignolles, from the Rue de (on the left, national establishment; des Clichy and the Grande Rue des Batign- Jeunes Aveugles, the Artesian Well, olles to the Rues du Rocher and de Levis; the new church Saint Frangois Xavier, the Boulevard de Courcelles, from the Rues Avenues de Villars and de Tourville, du Rocher and de Levis to the crossway Hbtel des Invalides; on the right, Gothformed by the meeting of the Avenues de ie tower of the chapel of the Convent Wagram and des Ternes, and to the Rue des Oiseaux). On the right bank of the du Faubourg Saint Honor6: (on the left Seine are the Boulevards de la Contrescarpe 331 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. and Bourdon (of 650 and 759 yards), from the Place de la Bastille to the Seine. The New Boulevards.-The new boulevards opened since 1854 in all directions are: The Boulevard de Strasbourg (921 yards), from the Depot of Strasbourg to the Boulevard Saint Denis; in the lower part, Cafes du Dix Neuvieme SiBcle, des Mille Colonnes, and de l'Eldorado. The Boulevard de Sebastopol, from the Boulevard Saint Denis to the Place du Chatelet; on the right, Church of Saint Leu; Rues de Rambuteau and de la Cos332 sonnerie, leading to the central markets; Rue Aubry Boucher, from which may be seen the Square of the Innocents; Th6 -atre du Chatelet; on the left, Square des Arts et Metiers, before the Conservatory of the same name, and the Theatre de la Galt6; Rue de Rivoli; on the right and left, Square of the Tower Saint Jacques; Place de l'Hotel de Ville, at the extremity of the Avenue Victoria; Fountain de la Victoire, and Theatre Lyrique. The Boulevard du Palais, from the Bridge au Change to the Bridge Saint Michael; on the right, Palace of Justice, Holy Chapel; on the left, Tribunal of Commerce, and Barracks of the Police. The Boulevard Saint Michael, from the Place of this name to the Avenue de l'Observatoire; on the left, street and church Saint Severin; beyond the Boulevard Saint Germain, the ruins of the Palace des Thermes, surrounded by a square; Rue des Ecoles, leading to the College of France; Church de la Sorbonne; Rue Soufflot, from which the Pantheon may be seen; Rues de l'Abbe de l'Epee and du Val de Grace, from the.former of which the Tower of Saint Jacques du Haut Pas may be seen, and from the latter the Dome du Val de Grace; on the right, Boulevard Saint Andre, to be extended farther; Fountain Saint Michael; Boulevard Saint Germain; Maison Hachette; Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine, ending with the Hopital de la Clinique and the Ecole de M6decine; Rue Racine, from which may be seen the Theatre de l'Odeon; Lyceum of Saint Louis; Rue Monsieur le Prince; Garden of the Luxembourg; School of Mines, and botanical garden of the School of Medicine. The Boulevard Malesherbes (2925 yards), from the Madeleine to the Gate d'Asnieres. The Avenue de Villiers, from the site of Old Barriere Monceaux to the Gate of Champerret, crossing Boulevard Malesherbes at Place Malesherbes, which is embellished with grass-plots, shrubs, etc. The grand Avenue des Champs Elysees. The Avenue Josephine (975 yards), from the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile to the Bridge de l'Alma. The Boulevard d'Jena (1408 yards), from the Arc de Triomphe to the southern extremity of the Place du Roi de Rome. Avenue du Roi de Rome (1300 yards), PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. from the Arc de Triomphe to the western extremity of the Place of the same name. Avenue d'Eylau, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Gate de la Muette. Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and Avenue de la Grande Armee, ending, the first at the Gate Dauphine, and the second at the Gate de Neuilly. Avenue d'Essling, which is to be extended to the Avenue des Ternes. Avenue Mac-Mahon, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Avenue des Ternes and the Place de Courcelles. A venue de Wagram, from the Arc de Triomphe to the prolongation of the Boulevard Malesherbes. Avenue de la Reine Hortense (866 yards), from the Arc de Triomphe to the Park Monceaux. Avenue de Friedland (1950 yards, ancient Boulevard Beaujon), from the Place d l'Etoile to the place formed by the meeting of the streets Faubourg Saint Honore, de Monceaux, and de l'Oratoire du Roule. The Boulevard Haussmann, between the preceding place and the Rue de la Chauss6e d'Antin (it will be extended farther). Avenue de l'Empereur, from the Place du Pont de l'Alma to the Gate de la Muette. Avenue de l'Alma, from the Avenues des Champs Elys6es to the Quay de Billy. The Boulevard Pereire, double avenue, extending from the station of the Porte Maillot to the Rue de Sante, near the Station des Batignolles. The Boulevard Voltaire, from the Chateau d'Eau to the Place du Trone. The Boulevard des Amandiers (1950 yards), from the Chateau d'Eau to the ancient Barribre des Amandiers. The Boulevard de Magenta, from the Chateau d'Eau to the Boulevard de la Chapelle, crossing the Boulevard de Strasbourg near the church Saint Laurent, and the Rue Lafayette near the Depot du Nord. The Boulevard Ornano, a continuation of the foregoing, beginning at Boulevard de la Chapelle, and leading to the Gate of Clignancourt. The Boulevard Richard Lenoir (1950 yards), from the Rue du Faubourg du Temple to the Place de la Bastille. The Boulevard St. Germain, which is to run from the Bridge de la Concorde to Quai St. Bernard, has for the present only three sections finished: one from Quai St. Bernard to the Rue Hautefeuille; another from the Rue St. Dominique St. Germain, near the War Office, to the Bridge de la Concorde; and finally a very short one from Rue d'Erfurth to Rue Taranne, by the church St. Germain des Pres. Avenue de Vincennes (2383 yards), from the Rue de Lyon to the ancient Barriere de Reuilly. The Boulevard d'Austerlitz (650 yards), from the Bridge d'Austerlitz to the Rue de Charenton. Avenue Parmentier (1950 yards), from the Abattoir de Menilmontant to the Rue d'Alibert on the north, and to the south until it meets the Boulevard du Prince Eugene. The Boulevard de Philippe Auguste, from the Barriere du Trone to the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. The Boulevard Saint Mlarcel, from the Rue de Lourcine to the Boulevard Arago. The Boulevard de Port Royal, from the Rue Mouffetard to the crossway de 'Observatoire. The Boulevard Arago, from the Rue de Lourcine to the Rue d'Enfer. The nineteen sections of the Rue Militaire, transformed into boulevards, bear the following names: on the right bank, Boulevard Poniatowski, from the Gate de Bercy to the Gate de Picpus; Boulevard Soult, from the Gate de Picpus to that of Vincennes; Boulevard Davoust, from the Gate of Vincennes to that of Bagnolet; Boulevard Mortier, from the Gate de Bagnolet to the Gate de Romainville; Boulevard Serrurier, from the Gate de Romainville to the passage of the Canal de l'Ourcq; Boulevard (Macdonald, from the passage of the Canal de l'Ourcq to the Gate d'Aubervilliers; Boulevard Ney, from the Gate d'Aubervilliers to that of Saint Ouen; Boulevard Bessieres, from the Gate of Saint Ouen to that of Clichy; Boulevard Berthier, from the Gate de Clichy to that of the Revolte; Boulevard Gouvion Saint C(yr, from the Gate de la R6volte to that of Neuilly; Boulevard Lannes, from the Gate of Neuilly to that of La Muette; Boulevard Suchet, from the Gate de la Muette to that of Auteuil; Boulevard Murat, from the Gate of Auteuil to the Seine; on the left bank, Boulevard Massena, from the Gate of the D6pot to the Gate d'Italie; Boulevard Kellermann, from the Gate d'Italie to that of 333 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Gentilly; Boulevard Jourdan, from the Gate of Gentilly to that of Orleans; Boulevard Brune, from the Gate d'Orleans to the passage of the Chemin de fer de l'Ouest; Boulevard Lefevre, from the passage of the Chemin de fer de l'Ouest to the Gate de Versailles; Boulevard Victor, from the Gate de Versailles to the Seine. The Quays.-The quays, beginning at the point where the Seine enters Paris, are: the Quai de Bercy (on the right bank; small pavilion of the Chateau de Bercy; vast depot of wine, brandy, oil, vinegar, etc.); and Quai de la Gare (on the left bank), directly opposite the Quai de Bercy 334 (on the left, Gare Triozon, a vast basin where the steamboats are sheltered from the ice in winter); the Quai de la R(dpee (right bank); the Quai d'Austerlitz (left bank), from the Quai de la Gare to the new depot of the Chemin de fer d'Orleans; the Quai Henri IV. (right bank); the Quai St. Bernard (left bank), opposite the Quai Henri IV., and bounded on the south by the Botanical Gardens and the Depot of Wines; the Quai d'Anjou (left bank); the Quais des Celestins, St. Paul, and des Ormes (right bank); the Quai de Bethune and the Quai d'Orleans (right bank of the southern arm of the Seine); the Quai St. Bernard and the Quai de la Tournelle (left bank); the Quai Bourbon, and Quai de la Greve, the Quai Napoleon, the Quai Pelletier, the Quai de Gevres, the Quai Desaix; the Quai de la Megisserie, formerly Quai de la Ferraille (right bank); the Quai de l'Horloge (left bank of the large arm); the Quai de l'Archezeche (right bank of the small arm); the Quai Montebello, opposite that of the Archeveche; the Quai du Marchd Neuf, on the right bank, opposite the Quai St. Michael; the Quai des Orfevres, the length of the Palace of Justice and the Prefecture of Police; the Quai des Grands Augustins, opposite the Quai des Orflvres; the Quai de l'Ecole (right bank), below the Pont Neuf; the Quai du Louvre, extending the length of the southern part of the palace of that name; the Quai de Conti (left bank; the Quai Malaquais (left bank); the Quai Voltaire (left bank), formerly Quai des Theatins; the Quai d'Orsay (left bank), bounded by a barrack, the Palace of the Conseil d'Etat and de la Cour des Comptes, the Grand Chancellerie de la Legion d'Honneur, the Ambassade d'Espagne, the Palace of the Legislative Corps, the hotel of the president of the Legislative Corps, the central magazine of the military hospitals, the stables of the emperor, constructed in 1861-62, and the depot of marbles of the state; the Quai des Tuileries (right bank), extending the length of the garden of the same name; the Quai de la Conference (right bank), serving for a road to the American horse-railway; the Quai de Billy (right bank), from the Bridge de l'Alma to the ancient Barriere de Passy; the Quais de Passy and dAuteuil (right bank); the Quais de Grenelle and de Javel (left bank). PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. bridge, still nameless (opened this year, 1876), connecting the Quai St. Bernard end of the Boulevard St. Germain with the projected Boulevard Henri IV., which is to extend as far as the Place de la Bastille. This bridge offers, with regard to the course of the river, a slanting line, answering the axes of both the Pantheon and the July Column. The part over the main arm, entirely built of cast iron, consists of three elliptical arches, the central one 57 yards, the side ones 53 yards from one pier to another; the length from Quai St. Bernard to the eastern extremity of the lie St. Louis being 171 yards, the width 23 yards. The part over the narrower arm consists of a central elliptical cast-iron arch 48 yards between the piers, and two lateral semicircular stone ones 18 yards between pier and abutment; the length from the island to Quai Henri IV. being 100 yards, the width 23 yards. The Pont Marie, built of stone between 1618 and 1635; the Pont de la Tournelle (6 arches), rebuilt several times since 1614, and enlarged and restored under Louis Philippe; the new Pont St. Louis, near which is the Morgue, signifying to scrutinize. This is a place where the bodies of strangers found drowned, or having met with death accidentally, are exposed for three days behind a glass partition, that they may be recognized by their friends. Their clothes are hung up above them as an additional clew. After three days' exposure, if the bodies are not claimed, they are buried at the expense of the public. The average is over one per day; some days three or four may be seen at the same time. The new Pont Louis Philippe (3 arches, in stone); the Pont d'Arcole, an iron bridge, allowing the passage of carriages, and reconstructed in 1854 according to a system invented by M. Oudry, engineer; the Pont Notre Dame, rebuilt only a few years ago; the Pont au Change (3 elliptical arches, 31 yards in width), entirely reconstructed in 1858; the Pont de l'Archkveche, built in 1828 on the small arm of the Seine (3 unequal arches); the Pont au Double, reconstructed in 1853 with a single arch on the small arm of the Seine; the Pont St. Charles, covered by a glazed gallery, uniting the buildings of the Hotel Dieu; the Petit Pont, rebuilt in 1853 with a single arch in stone; the Pont St. Michael, reconstructed in 1857 on the 335 The Bridges. —There are 27 bridges across the Seine, viz.: the Pont Napoleon III., a few yards beyond the fortifications between the Gate de Bercy (on the right bank) and the Gate de la Gare, composed of 6 arches (733 yards long), and serving at the same time for a railroad and for footpassengers; the new Pont de Bercy (5 elliptical arches, 150 yards from one support to another), recently constructed in place of an old suspension bridge of the same name; the Pont d'Austerlitz (5 arches in stone, 140 yards in length, 28 yards in width. The names of the principal officers killed at Austerlitz are inscribed on the ornaments that decorate the bridge), greatly damaged on the 25th of January, 1865, by an explosion of gas; a.new PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. smallerbranchofthe Seine. The Pont Neuf and Statue of Henry IV.-This bridge was constructed in the middle of the 10th century by Henry III. Its length is over 1000 feet; breadth, 78. It was formerly, like the London bridge, the habitual resort of jugglers, burglars, and thieves. Near the centre, on File aux Vaches, stands the statue of Henry IV. It was erected in 1818 by order of Louis XVIII., and was formed from the material of the statue of Napoleon, taken from the Place Vendome, and that of General Desaix, taken from the Place des Victoires. Its height is 14 feet, and weighs 30,000 pounds. The bridge is built entirely of stone, and the view from it is very beautiful; the Pont des Arts, constructed from 1801 to 1803, and reserved entirely for foot-passengers (8 arches of iron, 141 yards in length and 11 yards in breadth); the Pont du Carrousel, or des Saints Peres, uniting the Quai Malaquais to that of the Tuileries, and constructed in 1832 to 1834 (5 iron arches; at the extremities, 4 colossal statues in stone representing, on the right bank, Abundance and Industry, and on the left bank, the Seine and the City of Paris); the Pot Royal, reconstructed in 1665 (5 arches. Below this bridge is a wharf from which the steamboats start, going from Paris to Saint Cloud, during the summer); the Pont de Solferino, constructed in 1858 and 1859, opposite the Palace of the Legion of Honor (3 arches, 156 yards in length, 22 yards in width). On the corners are inscribed the names of the principal victories gained by the French army during the campaign of 1859. The Pont de la Concorde. -This bridge was originally called Le Pont Louis X V.; then Pont Louis XTVI.; then Pont de la Revolution. In 1800 it received the name Pont de la Concorde. It leads from Place de la Concorde to the Palace of the Legislative Body, and was built in three years, 1787 to 1790, mostly from the stone obtained from the ruins of the Bastile. Its length is 461 feet, and breadth 61 feet. It is composed of five elliptical arches. The architect was Peronnet; its cost, $240,000. The Pont des Invalides, uniting the Quai de la Conf6rence to the Quai d'Orsay, rebuilt in stone in 1854-55 (4 arches, statues representing, one the Victoire terrestre, the other the Victoire maritime, by Messrs. Di6 -boldt and Villain); the Pont de 'Alma, 336 constructed in 1854-55 to unite the western extremity of the Quai de la Conf6rence to the Quai d'Orsay (3 arches; between these arches are statues representing a grenadier and a zouave, by M. Dieboldt; a hunter, on foot, and an artilleryman, by M. Arnaud); the Pont d'Jena, constructed in 1806 to 1813, opposite the Champs de Mars (5 arches, in stone; sculptured eagles above the piers; at the extremities, colossal statues representing allegorical personages); the Pont de Grenelle constructed in 1818 (6 arches); the Pont du Point du Jour, or d'Auteuil, finished in 1866, and destined for the passage of the railroad. There are 2 roads, one for foot-passengers, carriages, and horses, the other for the railway; 2 stories, on 5 large arches. PARIS. LFRANCE.] PARIL Places, Statues, and Fountains. -Place de la Bastille and Colonne de Juillet, 1830.The Bastile, which formerly stood here, and which gave its name to this place, after having been used for a number of years as fortress and state prison, was attacked and captured by the people on the 14th of July, 1789; the following year it was deimolished by a decree of the National Convention, and part of the material employed in the construction of the Bridge de la Concorde. This is the entrance to the Faubourg St. Antoine, and on this spot the insurgents erected their strongest barricade in 1848. Here the good and muchbeloved Archbishop of Paris, Denis Affre, was shot by the insurgents while using his efforts to stop the bloody conflict which had been going on for three days. lie had obtained permission from General Cavaignac to go in person to try, by words of peace, to stop the frightful carnage which was going on. He was preceded by a young man bearing an olive-branch as a token of peace. As he approached, the VOL. I.-P 2 mob stopped their fire for a few moments; the archbishop exhorted them, in the most enthusiastic manner, to lay down their arms; it was of no avail; the firing again commenced, and the archbishop, seeing that his efforts were unavailing, was returning, when he was struck by a musket ball. The insurgents declared they were innocent of the act. He died in less than two days; his dying words were, " May my blood be the last spilt in civil war." The Colonne de Judlet is composed of bronze, weighing over 163,000 pounds; it is 154 feet high, and rests on a basement of white marble ornamented with bas-reliefs in bronze. Over the Corinthian capital is a gallery 16 feet wide, surmounted with a gilt globe, on which stands a colossal figure representing the Genius of Liberty. It was inaugurated in 1840, when the remains of the victims of 1830 were deposited beneath. Nearly all the combatants who fell in February, 1848, were interred here. This monument is generally considered one of the finest specimens of modern architecture. There is a very beautiful view from the top. The keepers generally expect a fee of about one franc. The Place de la Bourse, surrounding the edifice of this name. The Place du Carrousel extends from the Court of the Tuileries, on the west, to the Place of Napoleon III., on the east. This place derives its name from a tournament held here by Louis XIV. in 1662. It is separated from the Court of the Tuileries by an iron railing, before the central gate of which rises the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, erected by the order of Napoleon in 1806, under the direction of Percier and Fontaine, and after the model of the arch of Septimus Severus at Rome. The Place du Chateau d'Eau, formed by the meeting of the boulevards du Temple, Saint Martin, du Prihce Eugene, de Magenta, and de la Rue du Temple, owes its name to a beautiful fountain called the Chateau d'Eau. Place du Chdtelet was the site of the court of justice and prison of Paris during the Middle Ages. In the middle of the present square is a fountain, erected in 1808, the first monument raised in commemoration of the victories of the Republic and the Empire. On this place are two fine theatres, the Lyrique and the Chatelet. 337 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. The Place de la Concorde, or Place Louis XV. On the spot where formerly stood the statue of that monarch the Obelisk of Luxor now stands. The great space which separates the garden from the Champs Elysees (a square of 750 feet long by 525 broad) composes this place, which, historically speaking, is one of the most noted in Paris. Here it was, in 1770, that, during the celebration of the nuptials of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, in the midst of a panic caused by a discharge of fireworks, the carriages were driven among the people, and over 1200 persons were trampled to death. Here, also, took place the collision between the people and the soldiers, which was the signal for the destruction of the Bastile. On this spot stood, in 1793 and 1794, the dreadful guillotine, on which were executed Louis XVI., his unfortunate consort, Marie Antoinette, his sister, Madame Elizabeth, the Duke of Orleans, Robespierre, General Beauharnais, the Empress Josephine's first husband and grandfather of Napoleon III., and, in about a year and a half, over 2800 people. The Russians, Prussians, and Austrians were here reviewed in 1814, after the capture of Paris. At this place the insurrection of 1848 commenced; and it was here, also, that the Constitutional Assembly proclaimed the Constitution of the Republic in the same year. It assumed its present appearance in 1770. After the Revolution it was named Place de la Revolution; in 1800, Place de la Concorde; in 1814, Place Louis XV.; in 1852, Place de la Concorde again. In the centre of the place stands the Obelisk of Luxor, presented to the French government by Mohammed Ali, Pasha of Egypt. It weighs 500,000 pounds, is 72 feet 3 inches high, 7 feet 6 inches wide at the base, and 5 feet 7 inches at the top. It took three years to transport it from Thebes, and was erected on its present site at a cost of $400,000. A plan of its transportation and erection may be seen in the Mus6e de la Marine in the Louvre. It formerly stood in front of the Temple of Thebes, and was erected by the great Sesostris 1500 years before Christ. Every side is covered with hieroglyphics. Around the square are eight colossal statues representing the principal cities of France. On either side of the obelisk stand two beautiful fountains, the one dedicated to mari338 time, the other to fluvial navigation. The basins are fifty feet in diameter. Colossal figures surround the base, separated by spouting dolphins, winged children, and spouting swans. Place )Daphine, formed in 1608, and named after the Dauphin, afterward Louis XIII. In the centre is a fountain drected in 1803 in honor of Desaix, who fell at the battle of Marengo. The fountain bears the bust of Desaix, represented as being crowned with laurel by a figure of France. The Place of the Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, which is the beginning of twelve boulevards, all running in different directions. In the centre rises the Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, which opens into the Bois de Boulogne. This colossal monument was erected to celebrate the victories of the French under the Republic and Empire. It owes its existence to Napoleon I., who decreed its erection in 1806, in which year the corner-stone was laid. Its noble and majestic simplicity renders it worthy of the hero who commanded its execution. It is the largest triumphal arch in Eur.,pe, being 152 feet high, 137 feet broad, and 68 feet deep; the height of the principal arch is 90 feet: its cost was about $2,100,000, and was thirty years in completing, being finished in 1836. There are two principal groups of statuary on each front, which faces the avenue Champs Elys6e on one side and the Bridge of Neuilly on the other; these groups are thirtysix feet high, and the figures eighteen feet. The right-side group toward Paris represents the departure for the defense of the country; the Genius of War encouraging warriors to action. The left group represents the victories of 1810: Napoleon I. stands in a dignified attitude, while Victory places the crown upon his brow; Fame surmounts the whole, while History is occupied recording his deeds; a foreign soldier is in chains, and his arm suspended to a tree. On the facade looking toward the west, the right group represents "R esistance:" a young man, guided by a Genius flitting over his head, and surrounded by his father and his wife holding a dead child in her arms, rushes to the defense of his country; a warrior is falling from his horse, and the Genius is encouraging them to action. The group on the left reprosents "Peace:" a warrior, sheathing his PArIS. [FRANCE.] PARIs. sword, stands between his wife and chil- the midst is a fountain with four statues dren, while another is taming a bull fir the in bronze of the Seine, the Loire, the Gapurpose of agriculture; and the Genius of ronne, and the S'done, by Mr. Klaglmann. Peace, crowned with laurels, sheds over them her protecting influence. The last Place du Palais Rourbon.-In the centre two are by M. Etex, who received for the is a marble statue by Feucheres, representwork $30,000. Above the arch, on the ing Law. There is a pedestal in front on northern side, is the Battle of Austerlitz, by which a statue of Louis XVIII. was to be M. Jecther; and on the southern side, the placed, when the Revolution of 1830 broke BIlttleofJemmappes,byMarochetti. These out. In June, 1848, it was occupied by a sculptures are considered superior to any colossal statue of the Republic in plaster. thing that has ever originated in France. The Place du Pantheon extends before the The alto relievo on the western front is, on Church Sainte Genevieve. the northern side, the Taking of Alexan- Place Iloyale or Place des Vosges, was the dria, by Chaponniere; that on the southern site of the Palais des Tournelles. It was side, the Passage of the Bridge of Arcola, in this palace that Henry II., in tilting by Feuchere. The alto relievo on the east- with the Count de Montgommeri, received ern facade is, that of the southern coin- a wound in the eye of which he died. In partment representing the surrender of this place is an equestrian statue of Louis Mustapha Pacha at the Battle of Aboukir, XIII. by M. Seuvre; that of the northern, the The Place Voltaire is ornamented by a death of General Marceau, by M. Lemaire. colossal statue of the Prince EugBne, erectThe frieze surrounding the whole is the ed in 1863. work of several artists; it is equally divi- Place Vendome.-In 1668, Louis XIV. ded: one half (the eastern and half the erected this place on the site of the hotel northern and southern fronts) represents belonging to the Duke of Vendome, the ilthe departure of the armies for Italy; the legitimate son of Ienry IV. The form of deputies of the nation are grouped round the place is a perfect octagon, 420 by 450 the altar of the country, distributing flags feet. The buildings bordering on the square to the troops. On the corresponding half are very beautiful, and of Corinthian archiof the frieze we see the return of the vie- tecture. In the centre formerly stood an torious armies, offering the fruit of their equestrian statue of Louis XIV.: this was victories to regenerated France. Nearly demolished by the people during the first all the figures are portraits. The interior revolution, the base only being saved. In is ascended by winding staircases, which 1806 the Emperor Napoleon I. gave orders lead into several large halls. In one of the for the erection of a triumphal monument vaults is the following inscription: " Ce in honorofthe success ofthe Frencharmies. monument commence en 1806, en 'honneur de The column was of Tuscan order, and copied la Grande A rmee, longtemps interronmpu, con- after Trajan's Pillar at Rome. Its height tinue en 1823 avec une dedicace nouvelle, a ete was 135 feet; in circumference at the base, acheve en 1836....... qui-l'a consacre a 36 feet; the base was about 21 feet high, la gloire des Armees Francaises." After and 20 square, ascended by an entire windmounting 261 steps we arrive at the top, ing staircase of 176 steps. The column from which we have one of the best views was covered with bas-reliefs in bronze, comof Paris on one side, and the Bois or Park posed of 276 plates, made out of 1200 pieces of Boulogne, which we now enter, on the of cannon taken from the Russians and other. The building is open every day: a Austrians, representing the victories of the fee of half a franc to the custodian is French armies in the German campaign of sufficient. 1805. There were over 2000 figures of three The Place de Greve, reserved formerly for feet high, and the metal used weighs about executions, has been the theatre of the most 360,000 lbs. The column was surmounted moving scenes in the Revolutions of 1789, by a colossal bronze statue of Napoleon I., 1830, and 1848. 11 feet high. The one familiar to Parisians, The Place Louvois or Richelieu, situated with the cocked hat and military surtout, in the middle of the Rue Richelieu, opposite was taken down in 1863; the hero last apthe national library, incloses a square. In peared in a Roman toga. His statue was 339 P. FRN E.PAR. [FRANE. P hurled to the ground in 1814; but France to his king. It lasted until the Revolution was not satisfied until a finer one was placed of 1792, when it was destroyed by the peoupon the summit. The whole costwas about pie. In 1.808 Bonaparte erected a statue $300,000. During the time of the Commune to the memory of General Desaix, which this column was demolished, but it has late- was taken down and melted to form the ly been completely restored. The view ob- statue of Henry IV., which now stands on tained from here is very fine. The bronze of Pont Neuf. In 1822 the present splendid the column itself has been recast, most of the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. was placed fragments having been returned by the per- here; he is represented as a Roman emsons into whose hands they had fallen. A peror crowned with laurels; it was designlarge number of pieces were sold by the ed by Bosio, and weighs 16,000 lbs. Communists to strangers and others desir- The Porte Saint Denis is an arc de triing some memorial of the column; and the omphe, erected in 1672 in commemoration government, in order to regain the lost frag- of the conquests of Louis XIV. in Germany. ments, was obliged to declare that any per- The Porte Saint MIartin was erected in son having a piece of the bronze, and not 1674, after the conquest of the Franchereturning the same, would be subject to a Comte. month's imprisonment. The same statue, The Statue of Marshal Ney, modeled by overthrown by the Communists May 16, Rude, was erected in 1853 on the crossway 1871, was replaced upon the summit of the of the Observatory, on the spot where the new column January 27, 1875. marshal was shot. To the northwest lies the magnificent The Equestrian Statue of Henry IV., on church of the Madeleine, just descried, the Pont Neuf, is the work of Lemot. presenting its fine range of Corinthian The Fontaine de 'A rbre Sec was concolumns; to the southwest we perceive structedin 1775 by Soufflot, at the angle the upper part of the Obelisk of Luxor in formed by the Rue de l'Arbre Sec and the Place de la Concorde, and far away west- Rue Saint Honore. ward, over the beautiful Champs Elysees, The Fontaine de la Rue de Grenelle is one we see prominently over all other ob- of the most beautiful in Paris. jects the celebrated Arc de Triomphe de The Fontaine des Innocents was erected lEtoile. Nearly south, beyond the flow- in 1788 in the middle of the former market ing Seine, we perceive the classic portico of the Innocents, but has since been reof the Chamber of Deputies, or Legislative stored and placed in a square. Place; and in the distance, in the same The Fontaine.Molikre, constructed in 1844 direction, looms up, in all its majesty, the by Visconti, at the corner of the Rue Modome of the Hotel des Invalides; and far liere and the Rue Richelieu. There is a to the southeast we see the dome of the statue of Moliere in the centre. Panth6on, the most elevated object in the The Garden of t/he Tuileries was, under city. Away to the east appear the tombs Louis XIII., separated from the palace by and monuments of Pere la Chaise; while a street called Rue des Tuileries. Louis close at hand you have the gardens and pal- XIV. gave orders for having it remodeled, aces of the Tuileries and Louvre, also the and Le Nostre produced the chef-d'oeuvre Louvre and Gothic towers of Notre Dame; we now see. and in nearly the same direction, the Place The garden is 2250 feet in length and de la Bastille and Place du Trone, both on 1000 in width; it has two terraces, which Rue and Faubourg St. Antoine, which are form its northern and southern boundaries, a continuation of Rue Rivoli eastward. running the whole length of the garden: The Place du Trone is ornamented with the centre or principal avenue is skirted columns bearing statues of Saint Louis and with groves of splendid chestnut, elm, Philippe Auguste. palm, and lime trees. Immediately in front Place des Victoires.-The buildings which of the palace is the private garden, which surround this place date back to 1686, at used to be accessible only when the court which time a pedestrian statue of Louis was out of town. It is beautifully laid cut XIV. was erected by the Duke de la Feu- with shrubs and flowers, and adorned with illade, who raised it at his own expense for statues: some are copies of the old masters, the purpose of perpetuating his gratitude and many originals. In the centre of the 340 [FRANCE.] PARIS. garden is the great alley, over 2000 feet grand avenue was formed. Maria de in length, in the axis of which is a vast Medicis purchased nearly all the ground, basin, from whence the waiter gracefully since which time it has been continually spouts to the height of thirty feet. The improving. It was formerly called Le garden contains many line marble and Grand Cours, but now Avenue des Champs bronze statues, among which is the cele- E.lysees. Its length is over 1+ miles, terbrated antique group of Laocoon in bronze, minating at the triumphal arch de l'Etoile, taken from the original in the Vatican at half way between which and Place de la Rome; Time carrying away Truth; the Concorde is Rond Point: it is a circular IR:ape of Cybele by Saturn; Apollo Belvi- space, with six elegant lateral fountains. dere in bronze. The entrance to the pri- The avenue has foot-pavements twelve feet vate garden from the Seine is adorned by wide, laid in bitumen. All the avenues two bronze lions. As you go toward the are planted with magnificent trees, and west you ascend a flight of steps, which bordered by walks of the most agreeable leads to the terrace overlooking the Place aspect. Cast-iron lamp-posts are placed de la Concorde: here you have an excel- along the edge of the walks, and the effect lent view, not only of the public and pri- of the lamps when lighted is truly splendid. vate garden, but of the Place de la Con- In fine weather the Champs Elys6es is the corde and Champs Elysees. The garden, favorite spot for all classes; continually, during the cool hours of summer and sun- from morning till night, are circulating a ny hours of winter, is filled with all the multitude of sumptuous equipages going to gayest of the society of the capital, as well and coming from the Bois de Boulogne; as a sprinkling of old men, nurses, and while on every side we see beautiful groves children. A large quantity of chairs are surrounding the Cirque de l'Imp6ratrice, strewed over the garden, which may be the Chateau des Fleurs, or Jardin Mabile; hired for two or three sous each. The handsome coffee-houses, restaurants, conwhole is interspersed with magnificent cert-rooms, elegant fountains surrounded statues in marble and bronze, and elegant with flower-beds; and when all is lighted marble vases. up by the thousand lamps, the scene is Looking west, you see Place de la Con- truly seductive; but on "f6te" or holycorde, fai ther on the Champs:l ysges, at the days, when such an illumination takes end of the avenue Champs Elys6es the place as that which followed the entrance Arc de Triomphe opening into the Bois de of the "troops from Italy," the scene is beBoulogne. There is no view in the world yond description. When every building is to equal it. We will suppose the traveler transformed into a palace of fire, and every intends to devote one day to the four places tree into a pyramid of lights; when the -the Garden, Place de/ a Concorde, Ch;neps brilliancy of coloring disputes with the Elysje.s, and Bois de Boulogqne; after he has elegance of decoration, it is enchanting in"done" the two former on foot, he had bet- deed. ter take a voiture for the two latter. Bois de Boulogne.-The A venue du Bois de Garden of the Lueembour;q.-This garden Boulogne extends from the Triumphal Arch is one of the most beautiful in Paris, and is to the nearest entrance to the park. This profusely decorated with statues by the best is a magnificent avenue, 1300 yds. long and Parisian masters. It is about 3000 feet 100 wide. The gate through which we long by 2000 wide. Nine gates afford ac- pass is called Porte Dauphine, which ushers cess to this beautiful garden, which was us into the most splendid park in the world. first planted by Desbrosses at the time of There is nothing in Europe that can at all the erection of the palace. Gratuitous lee- compare with it; every thing that wealth, tures are here given by Mr. Hardy, the head taste, and art combined could do for it, has gardener, on grafting, pruning, and rear- been done, to add to the natural beauties ing of bees. It is open to the public from of this spot. It is now, like Hyde Park daylight until dark. at London, the most fashionable promeChamps El/ysees.-It is very difficult to nade or drive. give any description of this delightful spot After the capitulation of 1815, Wellingthat would be at all adequate to the occa- ton, with the British troopst encamped in sion. It is nearly 200 years since the this wood, since which time it has con. 341 PABIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. tinually been improving. It has assumed an entirely different appearance since the year 1852. Its extent is immense, being over four miles long by about two wide; contains two artificial lakes, encompassing two beautiful islands, from which a lelightful view is obtained. The most splendid equipages and finest horses of the capital are seen entering the carriage-road which winds around the lakes a distance of five miles. On the largest island is a beautiful Swiss cottage, which affords excellent refreshments to the hungry and thirsty. You will also find them peering out of clumps of trees in many portions of the park. The Bois suffered much during the late siege, many of the trees having been cut down. Included within the " Bois" is the Hlippodrome de Longchamps, a race-course containing 150 acres, and granted by the city to the Jockey Club of Paris for 50 years. The club has agreed to devote the net proceeds arising from the letting of places to increasing the stakes to be run for at the government autumn races. The Hippodrome is reached by the splendid A lie de Longchamps, through which the annual Promenade de Longchamps, which takes place in Paris on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday of Passion Week, passes. There are various ways of reaching the Hippodrome; there are steamers running from the Pont de la Concorde, omnibuses to Neuilly, and railway to Suresnes. The course is one of the best in the country, and all the buildings display a style of elegant rural architecture. On either side of the late emperor's pavilion, which is beautifully fitted up, are two stands or tribunes, the whole protected by an awning resting on cast-iron pillars, and surmounted by a gabled roof. All the different stands are divided into compartments for the members. The course commands a splendid view of the " Bois," near which is Mr. Rothschild's beautiful villa. Near the Hippodrome, and at the termination of the All6e Longchamps, is situated the Cascade Longchamps, a favorite place of resort fo; all strangers-a craggy, artificial mound forty feet high and one hundred and eighty wide. Through the body of the mound a large current of water issues, and falls into a basin bordered with rock. There are two small streams winding their 842 way through different courses. An intri. cate passage leads to the top, where is situated the lake from which the cascade is fed. The resemblance to the works of nature is so exact that one is cheated into the belief that the art of man has added nothing to its native beauties; but, apart from the forest growth that stretches out on every hand, the whole of it is the work of man. Every portion is under the eyes and hands of skillful landscape gardeners. The roads are most beautifully graded; the paths diverging from the main avenues in most graceful curves; the winding ways ornamented with arbors, bowers, and shrubbery. Adjoining the cascade is a first-class restaurant, whose splendid breakfasts and dinners are served a la carte, the resort of the "high life " of Paris. Dozens of wedding breakfasts are ordered here on Saturday mornings. We now strike into the Alle Longchamps, and on reaching the point where it crosses the Allie de la Reine Marguerite, strike into a carriage-way to the right, which leads to the Pre Catelan, about the centre of the park. This is a public garden, frequented by the most respectable people of Paris. It is finely laid out in groves, pavilions, Swiss cottages, grass-plots, shady walks-a beautiful combination of sylvan, rustic, and garden scenery. Here we have the Theatre des Fleurs, where ballets are performed. The scenery is all real,water, trees, sky, and grottoes. On fete-nights, when the whole is brilliantly illuminated, the effect is perfectly enchanting. The ordinary admission is one franc; on f6tenights, three. The refreshments are excellent. Near this stands the Croix Catelan, erected by Philippe le Bel, in the 14th century, in memory of a troubadour of that name whom he had invitedto Paris, and who was murdered in this wood by the escort the king had sent to guard him from robbers. He inadvertently mentioned to them that he was the bearer of great treasures to the king. They immediately resolved to mur. der him, and executed their diabolical purpose on the spot. On searching him, they found to their mortification that the treasure spoken of consisted in a few bottles of very valuable essences. After their return to the palace, they stated that he had failed to come. The wood was searched, and his body found; and one of the murderers havy PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. ing scented his hair with the essence, led to minutes past 4). In the centre of the court the arrest of the whole party. They con- is a cedar-tree brought from Mount Leba. fessed the crime, and were executed at the non, in Syria, by the late duke, and trans. stake. The monument is in good repair, planted here by his son, the Count de Paris. considering its age. In 1865 a beautiful It is surrounded by cypress-trees. A fee skating - pond, with pavilions, was con- of a franc for a party is generally given to structed in the "Bois," where the elite of the custodian. The chapel closes at4 o'clock Paris assemble during the skating season. P.M. Close by the Porte de la Muette is the Passy Artesian Well. Churches of Paris.-We shall now give Returning through the Avenue de Long- the names of the principal churches of champs, opposite the Porte Maillot, one of Paris, with a superficial description of each, the principal entrances to the Bois de Bou- as it would be beyond the limits of this logne, is the chapel of St. Ferdinand, the volume to enter into particulars. We shall scene of the melancholy death of the Duke commence the list with one of the most imof Orleans, eldest son of Louis Philippe, in portantmonuments of the capital, the metro1842. The duke was on his way to the politan church of NotreDame. Thefoundacamp of St. Omar in a light, open carriage, tion of the present church was laid in 1160 when the horses Lecame unmanageable, by Alexander III., Pope of Rome, who had the postillion not being able to hold them. at this time taken refuge in France, alThe duke endeavored to get out of the though a church dedicated to St. Stephen carriage; but his feet having become en- had been built on the site of.the present tangled in his cloak, he was thrown to the cathedral as early as the time of Valenground, and his head dreadfully fractured. tinian I. (A.D. 365). The west front was He was conveyed to the house of a grocer, finished during the reign of Philip Auwhere, at 7 o'clock the same day, he gustus, 1223; and the southern transept breathed his last. An elegant chapel was during the reign of St. Louis, 1267. The erected on the spot, 50 feet long by 20 high, whole was finished in the year 1420, being in the Gothic style. The windows are of nearly 300 years after its commencement. beautiful stained glass, three of them rep- This cathedral suffered much at the hands resenting Faith, Hope, and Charity. The of the mob during the Revolution, but was rest represent the patron saints of the dif- completely repaired preparatoryto the coroferent members of the royal family. On nation of Napoleon I., and also at the Resthe high altar is a "Descentfrom the Cross" toration. The beautiful facade is surin marble. On the left is an altar conse- mounted by two large square towers 80 feet crated to St. Ferdinand, and on the right is high, which are ascended by a staircase in the group representing the prince on his the northern tower. One of the best views death-bed; part of the group was the work of Paris may be obtained from these towers. of his deceased sister, the Princess Marii. In the southern one is the famous "BourDescending a few steps behind the altar of don" bell, which weighs 32,000 pounds, and the Virgin, you enter the very room in requires eight strong men to ring it, which which the prince died. Opposite the door event only takes place on very solemn ocis a beautiful picture representing the casions. The length of the church is 390 death-bed scene; the figures are the size of feet; height of the towers from the floor, life. Among the persons represented are 204 feet; width, 144 feet. The roof, rising his father and mother, his brothers, the 30 feet above the vaulting, is 356 feet long Dukes of Montpensier and Aumale (Prince and 37 wide; it is entirely covered with de Joinville was then at Naples), the Prin- lead, weighing over 400,000 pounds. The cess Clementine, Marshals Gerard and interior is magnificent. The arches have Soult; his wife, the Duchess of Orleans, double entrances, and are separated by two was absent at Rageres. Service is per- ranges of pillars, surrounded on both sides formed, and the officiating priest resides in with long galleries embellished with colone of the rooms of the chapel. umns. Behind the high altar, which is There are two clocks here, one represent- very magnificent, stands Couston's celeing the time the duke fell (10 minutes to brated marble group, the Descent from the 12). the other the time of his death (10 Cross. The group consists of four figures, 343 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. the mother, the Savior, and two angels. The expression given to the face of the Savior is peculiarly noble and touching. Some of the pictures in the interior of the choir are considered very fine. In the chapel of the Virgin there is a fine statue of the Mother of the Savior, by Raggi. In one of the chapels behind the choir there is a fine monument, erected to Cardinal de Belloy, archbishop of Paris. There are a number of excellent works written on the Cathedral of Notre Dame, any of which would well repay perusal. Michelet's History of France or Victor Hugo's Notre Dame are the best. On the southern side of Notre Dame stands the Fountain Notre Dame, erected on the site of the archbishop's palace, which was sacked by the populace in the Revolution of 1830. It was finished in 1845. The structure is in the Gothic style, and is 60 feet high; has two basins, the larger being 33 feet in diameter. Church of Saint Roch.-This church id considered as belonging to the richest parish in Paris, the worshipers here being the most fashionable and wealthy. It was commenced in 1653, the corner-stone having been laid by Anne of Austria and her son, Louis XIV., but was not finished until a century later. The fayade consists of two ranges of Corinthian and Doric columns, standing on a platform, which is approached by a flight of steps. The columns are surrounded by a pediment and cross; the platform, which extends the whole breadth of the church, 184 feet, has been the scene of many historical events of great importance. From here the unfortunate Marie Antoinette was led to execution; here it was that Bonaparte leveled his cannon on the mob during the Directory; here the stand was made by the people against the troops of Charles X. The doors of this church were forced open at different times by the populace, for the purpose of interring the bodies of Miles. Chamerois, Duchenois, and Rancourt in the body of the church. They belonged to the stage, and the clergy opposed their burial here; but the people insisted, broke down the doors, and carried their point. The interior architecture of the church is entirely Doric; its length is 400 feet, and is most profusely decorated; is rich in sculpture and paintings. The pictures most worthy of remark 844 are the Resurrection of Lazarus, by Vieri; The Savior driving the Monq-changers.from the Temple; his Blessing the Infants; his Delivering the Keys to Saint Peter. There is a beautiful piece of sculpture, the I-nfant Jesus in the Manger; also the Baptism of Christ. Standing in the fifth chapel is a beautiful monument, erected to the. Abbe' de 1'Ep6e by the deaf and dumb pupils of the institution which he founded. The singing here has always been superior to that of any other church in Paris. An elegant tribune was fitted up here for the use of the empress. Saint Roch is situated on the Rue St. Honore" No. 290. The Madeleine, situated on the Boulevard de la Madeleine. This magnificent edifice was commenced under the reign of Louis XV., in 1764. The breaking out of the Revolution of 1789 suspended the work. In the year 1809, Napoleon 1. formed the project of transforming it into a temple of glory; but the other disastrous events of 1813, ending with his abdication, interrupted its progress. In 1815 Louis XVIII. ordered it to be converted into a chapel in honor of Louis XV1. and his consort Marie Antoinette. The Revolution of July prevented this being carried into effect. Under the reign of Louis Philippe this proud,,-specimen of modern architecture was com. pleted. The original designs were by Constant d'Ivry, but it was completed under the direction of MM. Huve' and Vignon, The building and columns stand on a platform 328 feet long by 138 broad, and is approached by aflight of steps extending the whole length of' the fayade. It is surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, 49 feet high, and 5J diameter at the base. The entablature is enriched with elegant sculpture. The roof is entirely of iron and copper; in fact, there is no wood employed in the construction of the edifice. The dooni are of bronze, and are the largest in the world, next to St. Peter's at Rome. In the walls are niches containing statues of 32 different subjects. The interior is hand. sornely decorated with sculpture, gilt, and marble. The paintings have been executed by artists of the greatest merit. The church is lighted by three cupolas, resting on arches supported by fluted Corinthian columns. Around the choir are numerous chapels, each of which contains a statue of are the Resurrection of Lazarus, by Vieri; The Savior driving the Money-changers from the Temple; his Blessing the Infants; his Delivering the Keys to Saint Peter. There is a beautiful piece of sculpture, the Infant Jesus in the Manger; also the Baptism of Christ. Standing in the fifth chapel is a beautiful monument, erected to the Abbe de l'Ep6e by the deaf and dumb pupils of the institution which he founded. The singing here has always been superior to that of any other church in Paris. An elegant tribune was fitted up here for the use of the empress. Saint Roch is situated on the Rue St. Honore, No. 290. The Madeleine, situated on the Boulevard de la Madeleine. This magnificent edifice was commenced under the reign of Louis XV., in 1764. The breaking out of the Revolution of 1789 suspended the work. In the year 1809, Napoleon I. formed the project of transforming it into a temple of glory; but the other disastrous events of 1813, ending with his abdication, interrupted its progress. In 1815 Louis XVIII. ordered it to be converted into a chapel in honor of Louis XVI. and his consort Marie Antoinette. The Revolution of July prevented this being carried into effect. Under the reign of Louis Philippe this proud specimen of modern architecture was com. pleted. The original designs were by Constant d'Ivry, but it was completed under the direction of MM. Huve and Vignon, The building and columns stand on a platform 328 feet long by 138 broad, and is approached by aflight of steps extending the whole length of' the facade. It is surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, 49 feet high, and 5J diameter at the base. The en. tablature is enriched with elegant sculpture. The roof is entirely of iron and copper; in fact, there is no wood employed in the construction of the edifice. The doora are of bronze, and are the largest in the world, next to St. Peter's at Rome. In the walls are niches containing statues of 32 different subjects. The interior is handsomely decorated with sculpture, gilt, and marble. The paintings have been executed by artists of the greatest merit. The church is lighted by three cupolas, resting on arches supported by fluted Corinthian columns. Around the choir are numerous chapels, each of which contains a statue of PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. its patron saint. The high altar is beautifully sculptured by Marochetti. The principal group represents the Magdalen borne to Heaven on the wings of angels. The principal painting on the ceiling is by Zeigler, and represents the establishment and progress of Christianity since the death of the Savior. The Magdalen is borne before the throne of God, surrounded by a vst multitude of mortals who were instrumental in propagating the Christian religion, among which are Constantine, St. Louis, Peter the Hermit, Richard Coeur de Lion, Godfrey de Bouillon, Dandolo, " the blind old Doge of Venice," Clotilde, queen of France, Joan of Arc, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Louis XIII., and Richelieu. The last group is Napoleon receiving the imperial crown from Pope Pius VII. The whole cost of this magnificent structure was about $2,500,000. Proceeding eastward, along Boulevard de la Madeleine, we arrive at Rue de la Paix, on the right, which runs from the Boulevard des Capucines to Place Vendome. The continuation of this street is Rue Castiglione, which brings you out on Rue Rivoli, opposite the garden of the Tuileries. On Rue de la Paix are situated the principal jewelry shops of Paris. Church of Notre Dame de Lorette. —This church was commenced in 1823 and finished in 1837. Mr. Lebas was its architect. If mot the richest, it is the most sumptuously ornamented church in Paris; in fact, it more'resembles a museum than a place of worship. It is situated in an elegant and gay quarter of the city, and is mostly visited by persons whose principal motive in going there seems to be the display of their attire. Its length is 204 feet by 96 wide. The portico consists of four Corinthian columns, supporting a pediment, over which are the figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. From the Rue Montmartre it much resembles a Roman temple. The spaces between the windows of the interior are paint ed in fresco, illustrating the life of the Virgin. The high altar is supported by Corinthian columns, with bronze bases and capitals. The choir is fitted up in stalls, the dome of which is decorated with figures of the four Evangelists, by Delorme, and the wall by Heim and Drilling-the Presentation in the Temple, and Jesus in the Temple. Near the entrance is a beautiful bas-relief of the Virgin and infant Christ, adored by angels. Many strangers visit this church for the purpose of listening to the singing, which is remarkably good. Church of St. Eustache.-This is a bold and majestic edifice, but there is little uniformity existing in its style of architecture, which is partly owing to the length of time elapsing between its commencement and completion (over 200 years). The interior of the church, which is of a cruciform shape, is beautifully sculptured. The roof of the nave is supported by ten columns of more than 100 feet in height. The stained-glass windows produce a very good effect. There is a beautiful organ over the entrance, which cost some $14,000. The high altar is of pure white marble, and beautifully sculptured. There are a large number of very beautiful paintings in this church. Church of St. Germain l'Auxerrois, in front of the colonnade of the old Louvre, founded on this spot by Childebert; pillaged and devastated by the Normans in 886. During the residence of the royal family in the Louvre it was always considered the royal parish church. King Robert rebuilt it in 998; it was again rebuilt ly Charles VII. in 1427. During the Revolution of 1831, while the funeral services were being performed in commemoration of the Duke de Berri, a tumult arose in the church, and it was completely devastated; the mob was with great difficulty prevented from tearing it down. The whole of the decorations of this church are grand and majestic, its works of art chaste and numerous. It was from the belfry of this church the fatal signal was given for the commencement ofthe horrible massacre of St. Barthelemy. l,,.,- ^i#c. 5' 1..t Church of S. Sulpice, in Place St. Sulpice.-The corner-stone of this magnificent church was laid by Anne of Austria in the year 1645, but it was not completed until the year 1745. The portico, which is uni345 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. versally admired, is composed of a double range of Doric columns 40 feet high. The entrances are approached by a flight of steps, intersected by double columns supporting a gallery and colonnade of the Ionic order. Two towers surmount the edifice; the one 210 feet high, the other 174. They are also of different forms, the Archbishop of Paris refusing to allow two towers of the same description on any but the metropolitan church. On the northern and highest tower is the telegraph corresponding with Strasburg, and on the southern is that for Italy. This splendid structure is 432 feet long, 174 broad, and 95 high. The principal entrance is flanked with statues of Saints Peter and Paul. The interior decorations of St. Sulpice are in perfect keeping with its exterior beauty. The organ is most magnificently carved, and is considered the finest in Paris. It represents King David and fifteen other figures playing on musical instruments or bearing cornucopias. The church contains 22 beautiful chapels, wherein are many fine paintings. The principal is the Lady Chapel behind the choir. It is incrusted with white marble, and decorated with most magnificent gilding and sculpture. The dome is painted in fresco, representing the Ascension, and the walls the Annunciation, Visitation, Birth, and Presentation. A meridian line possessing the twelve signs of the zodiac has been traced on the pavement of the transept. It is continued along an obelisk of white marble. Its object is to fix the spring equinox. In front of the church is the Fountain of St. Sulpice, erected by order of Napoleon I., around which a flower-market is held on Mondays and Thursdays. Church du Val de Grace and lipital Militaire, in Rue St. Jacques.-This church was formerly a convent for nuns, which was founded by Anne of Austria in 1621. Having been married to Louis XIII. thirtytwo years without issue, she made a vow that if her desire to give an heir to the throne of France should be realized, she would build a church at Val de Grace. She afterward gave birth to Louis XIV. In 1645 the first stone of the church was laid with great pomp. In the court is the bronze statue of Baron Larrey, Napoleon I.'s surgeon-in-chief, to whom he left $20,000. He is represented leaning against a gun, 346 and in his right hand he holds the will of Napoleon, opened at the words, "I leave 100,000fr. to Surgeon-in-Chief Larrey, the most virtuous man 1 know." The principal porch is ascended by a flight of sixteea steps, and is composed of eight Corinthian columns. There are few churches in Paris possessing so lofty a dome, or, in general, so fine an appearance. The interior of the dome represents Paradise, and was painted by Mignard. The figures are over 200 in number, and many of them seventeen feet in height. It is considered the finest fresco in the world. A small confessional near the high altar was the one used by Mademoiselle de la Valliere previous to her taking the vows. From windows in the passage adjoining may be seen the house she occupied at the time. The military attendant will show you the casket where the hearts of the Bourbon family were formerly preserved. Anne of Austria, having bequeathed her heart to this church, was the origin of the custom. The remains of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles I., king of England, were deposited here. The church is adorned with frescoes and statues, the style of its decorations being purely Corinthian. Visitors are admitted every day. A small fee is expected by the military guide. Church of St. Etienne du Mont.-This is one of the oldest churches in Paris, built in the reign of Clovis. It has been enlarged several times. Its stained-glass windows are deserving of particular notice. It contains many valuable works of art. The festival of St. Genevieve (who was originally buried here) takes place on the 3d of January, and the ceremonies which are performed then and for eight days afterward are very interesting. In 1857 the Archbishop of Paris was here assassinated by a priest in presence of an immense crowd. The murderer was condemned and execu — ted twenty-seven (lays after. Its pictures and ornaments are very valuable. It has lately been repaired at a cost of $400,000. Some of the greatest persons in France have been buried here; among others, Racine, Rollin, Lesueur, and Pascal. Church of St. Vincent de Paul, Place Lafayette.-This beautiful church is entirely modern: the foundation stone was laid in 1824, and the whole structure completed in twenty years. The church is raised PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS, about thirty feet above the level of the place, and is approached by two large flights of steps, flanked by elliptical carria e-ways. The exterior forms a parallelogram 243 feet by 108, and the interior 198 feet by 102. The portico is very beautiful, composed of double ranges of fluted Ionic columns, on each side of which rise two lofty square towers, connected with a balustrade, with statues of the four evangelists. A very fine view of Paris may be had from this spot. A beautiful gilt railing surrounds the principal front. The main door is of bronze, and represents in twelve niches the apostles accompanied by angels. The interior of the church is divided by four ranges of Ionic columns. There are eight different chapels in the side aisles. An arch sixty feet high, and richly sculptured, gives access to the choir, behind which is the Lady Chapel, containing a beautiful stained-glass window representing the Virgin and Savior. The wooden furniture of the church is richly carved, particularly the altar-piece and stalls of the choir. The cupola of the choir represents the Savior, with St.VinceIt de Paul at his feet, surrounded by f.ngels. The place in front of this church was the scene of a bloody conflict between the populace and soldiers in 1848. Church of Notre Dame des Victoires, or des Petits Peres, in Place des Petits Peres. -Founded in 1629 by Louis XIII. There are several very richly-sculptured chapels, in one of which is the monument of Lulli, the celebrated composer. There are a number of very fine paintings in the choir. The order of architecture is Ionic. Durin the Revolution of 1789 this church was used as an exchange. The Sainte Chapelle.-This splendid building was begun in 1245, under the reign of St. Louis. It is 139 feet high; its length 118 feet, and breadth 55 feet. The roof is surmounted by a lofty spire, 108 feet in height, richly gilt, and adorned at the base with statues of the twelve apostles, cast in zinc. The interior consists of a nave and semicircular choir, being 108 feet long by 34 feet wide. It is most beautifully painted in blue and red diagonals, diamonds, etc., interspersed with fleurs de lvs. In the nave is a small door leading to a chamber called the Oratoire de Louis IX., from which this mon arch attended mass by a small window looking into the nave. This church contains the crown of thorns, and a piece of the true cross, bought of Baldwin, emperor of Constantinople, by St. Louis. During the restoration of the church in 1842, a human heart was found under the altar inclosed in a coffer, which some antiquarians assert to be the heart of St. Louis. The A merican Chapel, situated in the Rue de Berri, is built of stone, in the Gothic style. The interior is plain, but rich, and in excellent taste. The pulpit, choir, and pews are of solid oak, carved. The pews or sittings can be rented by the year, quarter, or month. The church is supported by pew-rents, contributions, and collections from residents and strangers. Divine service every Sunday at 11i A.M. There is also an American Episcopal church in the Rue Bayard. Palaces of the Tuileries and Louvre.-The palace of the Tuileries was set on fire (May 23d, 1871) and almost entirely destroyed at the fall of the Commune. The following is a description of its appearance previous to that time: Napoleon I. conceived the design of connecting the Tuileries with the old Louvre, leaving it to his nephew to consummate that noble work. In 1848 the Provisional Government signed a decree to commence operations; but it was not until 1852 that the present emperor decreed five million dollars for the purpose. The name of Tuileries is derived from the fact that all the tiles (tuiles) used in Paris were formerlv manufactured on its site. The celebrated personages who have inhabited this palace, and the political events that have occurred there, make it a most remarkable place, and one to which we should devote some little space. In 1564, that cruel and perfidious princess, Catharine de Medicis, purchased the ground and commenced the present palace. Philibert Delorme was the architect. It was much improved under Louis XIII. and XIV. Here, in 1572, the wicked founder of this palace gave a fete. A few days before the massacre of St. Barthelcmy there was an allegorical representation, in which all the nobility, Catholics and Protestants, were actors. During the performance, the King 347 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. of Navarre and other Huguenots were pre vented by Charles IX. and his brother from entering Paradise; they were pushec into hell, and kept there some time. Thi, was very significant, for four days aftei.the horrible massacre took place, the whole having been arranged before the fete; and there, amid the charms of music ani dancing, 100,000 souls were sent unprepared to meet their Maker. It is horrible to think that a woman could imagine and coolly prepare a ballet on the massacre, arranged beforehand, of part of the nation over which she reigned. Louis XIV. resided here until the completion of Versailles. It was then occupied by families of persons attached to the court until the return of Louis XIV. This palace is a landmark on every page of the revolutions of Paris. In June, 1792, the mob entered it; in August of the same year the Swiss Guard were murdered in it. It was the official residence of the First Consul; also of the imperial court. After the Restoration, King Charles X. and the royal family resided there. The mob entered it again in 1830, and drove out the king. It was the residence of Louis Philippe until the Revolution of 1848, when a party of rioters, in company with some loose girls, occupied the apartments for ten days. They turned the king's and queen's bedrooms into dining-rooms. Every thing they could lay their hands on they made subservient to their will, celebrating their orgies night and day in the most magnificent apartments of the palace. In 1849 it was occupied as a gallery for the exhibition of paintings. Under the Empire it was the city residence of the imperial family. The facade facing the garden of the Tuileries was about 1000 feet in length, running from Rue Rivoli to the Seine. The style of architecture is mixed. The first or lower floor columns are Ionic, the second Corinthian, the third Composite. At the extreme of this facade stood two lofty pavilions, ivith remarkably high roofs and chimneys. The one on Rue de Rivoli called Pavillon Mwarstn, the one toward the Seine Pavilion de Flore. Napoleon I. conceived the idea of uniting the palace of the Tuileries with that of the Louvre, which stood parallel with it at over one quarter of a mile distant; but political events transpired which prevented his carW48 - rying out his designs. It was left for s Napoleon III. to finish this stupendous I undertaking, and we see in what a res markably short space of time this colosr sal work was completed. From the court behind the palace of the Tuileries we I enter into the Place du Carrousel. It was here that Louis XIV. gave that splendid tournament in 1612, which was attended by guests from all parts of the civilized world. It was here also that Napoleon reviewed that magnificent but ill-fated army previous to their departure on the Russian campaign. There are four principal issues from this place, two on Rue de Rivoli and two on the Quai du Louvre. This place is separated from the court by an elegant railing, with three entrances; two are adorned with statues. Before the central one is the Triumphal Arch erected by Napoleon I. in 1806 at a cost of nearly $300,000. During the first empire it was crowned by four antique horses from the Piazza St. Mark at Venice. They were restored by the Allies in 1815; and in 1828 the present chariot with four horses was executed by Bosio. Interior of the Tuileries was open to visitors, in the absence of the court, by permission from the adjutant-general of the palace. The following is the usual style of the letter to be written for permission to visit public palaces: MONSIEUR LE MINISTRE (or M. le Directeur, according to the functions of the party addressed),-J'ose vous demander la faveur de m'accorder un permis pour visiter, moi et ma famille (insert the names of the places). J'ai l'honneur d'etre, Monsieur, votre tres humble serviteur (sign name and address). If the writer does not receive an answer to this message within two or three days, he will do well to call at the proper office, or apply at the office of the hotel. The southern wing of the Tuileries was fitted up for the Empress Eugenie. These apartments were formerly occupied b;y Louis Philippe, Madame Adelaide, and the Prince and Princess de Joinville. The northern wing and Pavillon Marsan were occupied by the Duke and Duchess de Nemours, Duke and Duchess Montpensier, Duke and Duchess d'Aumale, Duke and Duchess of Orleans, and Count do Paris, Rue de Rivoli Musee des Musie c gravures 1 dAssyrien 0> C LOUVRE GALLERIES Ground Floor ' I) I a" I Scuintures r ri Cour du Louvre First Floor Pictures,designs &Antiquities 4) Cour du' Louvre I I I I j Salle des C RanSiU tg ' n tiqwtens 7 Cheminees M Ir I ie C M mpana Francaise Vases Terracotnas Pemntures 1 1 I I I I lanitioules PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. and their attendants. The apartments of point of view, to be unequaled, especially the empress, entered by the Pavilion de the eastern front, by any building in the F.ore, could not be visited by strangers, city. Its famous colonnade, known as the and the state apartments, as we before said, Colonnade du Louvre, is considered one of only in the absence of the emperor. The the chefs-d'oeuvre of the age of Louis entrance to these apartments was up the XIV., under whom it was erected. It is Escalier de la Chapelle, which gave access composed of 28 double Corinthian columns. to the antechamber. The antique ceiling The facade is 525 feet in length. The of this apartment formerly decorated the magnificent gateway in the centre prosleeping- apartment of La heine Blanche, duces a grand effect. The gates are of and was brought from Vincennes. To bronze, and were made by the order of the left of this apartment was the theatre, Napoleon. On the site of the present palused as a supper-room on ball-nights, ca- ace formerly stood the hunting-seat of pable of accommodating 800 persons. Op- Dagobert. Under Philip Augustus there posite this, on the ground floor, was the stood on the same spot a castle to defend state chapel. Next in order stood the the river, in the centre of which rose the Salle de la Paix. This magnificent hall famous Tower of he Louvre, which was used was used as a ball-room. Over the man- as a state prison, and several persons of tel-piece was a splendid equestrian portrait rank were confined there under Charles of the emperor, by Muller. In the hall VII. and Louis XI. Francis I. commenced was the silver statue of Peace, presented the present buildings. It was from the to Napoleon I. by the city of Paris after southern window of the eastern front that the treaty of Amiens. Next came the Charles IX. fired on the victims of St. BarSalle des Marechaux, the finest of the suite. thelemy. Louis XIV. having been divertThis was also used as a ball-room on state ed from the Louvre to the building of occasions. The walls were gold and white Versailles, it remained unfinished until -the furniture green silk, damask, and 1805, when Napoleon had it completed. gold. The names of the great battles of The design of the palace is a perfect square, Napoleon I. were inscribed over the gal- being over 500 feet on each side. Its court lery, and the busts of all his distinguished is one of the most beautifully decorated in generals, and portraits of many of them, Europe. The order of the four facades is adorned the walls. The next apartment principally Corinthian or Composite. It is was the Salle Blanche, or card-room; the brilliantly lighted at night with 24 bronze Salon d'Apollon, and then the Salle du gas-lamps. This palace has been inhabited Trone. The hangings were of dark red by many persons of great historic celebrivelvet, embroidered with gold; the car- ty, among whom were Henry III., Henry pet, of Gobelins manufacture, cost nearly IV., Louis XIII., Louis XIV.,Charles IX., $100,000; the throne stood opposite the and Henrietta, widow of Charles I., of Enwindows, over which was a canopy of red gland. Part of the New Louvre is occupied velvet, embroidered with bees in gold. as offices by the Counsel of State. Here Next was the Salon Louis XIV., which is also the library of the Louvre, containcontained the following pictures: Louis ing some 90,000 volumes. This was forXIV. presenting his grandson, Philip V., merly the private library of Louis Philippe. to the grandees of Spain; his full-length Some idea of the extent of the palace may portrait in his seventieth year; and also be had when we inform our readers that it his portrait as a child, together with that covers over sixty acres of ground. of Anne of Austria and the Duke of Orleans. Next to this was the Gallery de Diner, or dining-room on state occasions. Behind these were the private apartments of the emperor, but these were not shown. The Old Louvre, which has recently been connected with the Tuileries by the New Louvre, is considered, in an architectural 349 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. The Grands Magasins du Louvre.-The estate of the Grand Hotel and Grands Magasins du Louvre is one of the largest in Paris, occupying an entire block, bounded by the Place du Palais Royal, the Rue de Rivoli, the Rue de Marengo, and the Rue St. Honore. On the Rue de Rivoli side it is of the regulation style of architecture,like the other buildings, with uniform arcades and a long series of porticoes, under which daily pass the throng of foreigners visiting Paris. The lines are of severe simplicity, and offer, by sunlight or gaslight, a monumental aspect. The immense parallelogram occupied by the store and hotel of the Louvre boast of nothing externally but of their part of this majestic row. It is a superb mass, an enormous group of opulent houses; the threshold, once crossed, reveals a palace. The store is divided into fifty-two different sections: silks, ladies' mantles and cloaks, new stuffs, woolen goods, mourning-stuffs, calicoes and muslins, laces, cashmeres and shawls, cloths, ladies' linen, trousseaux, baby outfits, sheeting, damasklinen, cotton goods, dresses and costumes for ladies and children, skirts, shirts, gentlemen's clothing to order, corsets, hosiery, gloves, boots, shoes, etc., bonnets, scarfs and cravats, parasols and umbrellas, needles, thread, etc., trimmings, furniture, perfumery, toys, books for presents, etc. A visit can alone give an idea of the importance of the Grands Magasins du Louvre; hundreds of American ladies, visiting and residing in Paris, make it their rendezvous for the afternoon. For their better guidance through the vast galleries, a plan of the store has been added, where each department is distinctly and accurately marked. The total surface of the store is 31,600 metres; the total length of the galleries is over two and a quarter miles; it has thirtyseven galleries and three hundred and sixtyfive salesrooms. The privilege of the store is to be able to offer, in every line, a choice of goods to be found in very few establishments, and these at a low percentage of profit, on account of the extent of their operations. Any purchase followed by regret of the same is annulled, and any article which has ceased to please is changed or the price of the same refunded, as the purchaser wishes; the employes are specially ordered to attend to the above, as well $0 as to give all desirable information to visitors wishing to inspect, not buy. Time has given the proprietors of the Louvre a reputation for fair dealing, which renders any further commentary on their probity useless. Goods are sent free, when over twenty-five francs in price, to any part of France, Alsace-Lorraine, England, Scotland, Ireland, Germany, Belgium, Holland, Switzerland, Continental Italy, and Austrian Hungary. Samples, fashion-plates, catalogues, estimates, list of current prices, etc., when requested, by prepaid letter. The Grand Hotel du Louvre.-The enormous development of the galleries of the Grands Magasins du Louvre, where clothing and nouveautes of every kind are sold, has changed nothing in the general dispositions of the hotel, and diminishes neither its splendor nor extent. The proprietors of the estate and the two businesses have exhibited in the hotel the same taste in comfort already visible in the organization of the stores. The court of honor has become a real winter-garden, surrounded by rhododendrons and tropical plants. Opposite the great and magnificent staircase of the court of honor extends a vast terrace, slightly elevated, and shaded by superb palm-trees, under which the guests of the house sit and read their papers, or partake of ices and other first-class refreshments. Situated in the centre of the capital, uniting all the innovations which have made the fortunes of the celebrated hotels of Switzerland and New York, the Grand Hotel d u Louvre holds the reputation (which is daily increasing) acquired by twenty-two years of excellent management. There is, therefore, nothing to say about the perfection of the service, the polite and intelligent personnel, such commodities as bath and hydrotherapic rooms, barber-saloons, the facility of uniting a number of rooms into one apartment, comfortably and elegantly arranged, thanks to the resources of a system of furnishing which realizes the most complete transformations with wonderful rapidity. All these excellent dispositions have been not only preserved, but improved, rejuvenated, submitted to the exigencies of the day and of fashion, of which the store and the Hotel du Louvre may, from many points of view, be styled the palace. The Grand Hotel du Louvre contains 700 rooms, thoroughly renovated since GROUND FLOOR 51. ~ RUE DE RIVOLI GALLERY Q EU QZ RIVOLI DOOR is NEAL 11C NANOKERCAN&LINN CALICOES FOES&FAHR TBEL ESTAR FLAOWA ERSTAIRS ER CASHIE ETI TAR U0r3 EERET LF o) IERINO WSOLEN4SIIRG LEY ] IIR MA3ELGS10 WHITE COURT GOE lu STAIRS 2 STAIRS@ RASIA PLAIS ROYAL PASAISROYAL1.. HALL CURTAINS GLEYHONOUR HALL II FICH ~ H OSIERY[IFANC STFFS MEEL IESNICR ER - ~ RTICLES CAINOISERIES NEEDLES0 /STAIRS CA HI R TTADS ETC. STAIRS FOjlS & MARNGITREDGOVS MBRELLAS ART'l"dePARIS~j p 3RIBBONS TRIMMINGS SKIRTS EASTERN STUFFS ZST HONORE DOOR~ ct RUE ST" HONORE GALLERY PLAN O F EN T RE SO0L RUE CE RIVOLI GALLERY FOREIGN LARDS Sar AND DEPARTMENTS tir BEBDING WORKS-ROOMS OF FITTING 'CUTTING- MAR4TLESCLOAKS, StaN BRA N PERT S PEIGNOIRS SALON L OOMY S DRESSES& COSTUMES DIELIVE Ll WStairs Stairs DRAPERY MENS'CLOTHING SHIRTS SHA~WLS BOOTS &SHAOES RUE ST HON/ORE GALLERY 5-4 0:b 0. '5: IQn PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR )I. RUE DE RIVOLI GALLERY Q0:.~CMILORENS' SONNETS TROUSSEAUX ~CRSETS HUELNRDESS&CSUE CLOTRIhGI c'S OS LIL RSE tC TU S 03SCALES stairs i ~ i 0 TAPETRY - PEIGNOIRS. 14u Stairs A N D 0 LADIESICLOAKS ozFURNITURE ROOir M WORK - ROOMS ltII rITTiNG.-SALONS ORENTAL CARPETS CtairsPETS LACE S MANTLES QZ RUE STHONORE GALLERY. tuI 0. NJa 0 Z PLAN OF THE GRANDS MAGASINS DU LOUVRE VOL. I.-Q 14. PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. the acquisition of the estate by Messrs. Chauchard & Co. Two lifts rise to all the floors; also reached by wide staircases. Each story is divided, in its service, into three sections: the Palais Royal, the Rivoli, and the St. Honore. Two hundred and fifty servants of each sex form the personnel. Strangers' servants are lodged in comfortable rooms. Cabs of the grande and the petite remise are constantly at the disposal of guests. Special omnibuses leave the hotel for all stations and all trains, and vice versa. Guides and interpreters. speaking all languages, are to be found in the inquiry-office. A post and telegraph office, as well as an exchange office, are in the hotel. Palais de l'E.lyske. -This palace was erected in 1718 for Count d'Evreux, after which it was purchased by Madame Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV. Its southern front faces the Champs Elysees, opposite the Palais de l'Industrie. After 350O PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. passing through several hands it was pur- i in having his own productions performed. chased by the government, and became a Louis XIV. was brought up in the palace, favorite residence of Napoleon I. During I and so much was his education neglected the occupation of Paris by the Allies it was i that he hardly knew how to read and write inhabited by the Duke of Wellington and at an advanced age. In 1781 the debts of the Emperor of Russia. Napoleon again oc- its owner were so enormous that the buildcupied it after his return from Elba, during ings were turned into shops to augment his short second reign of one hundred days. his revenue. After the death of the Duke It afterward came into the possession of of Orleans in 1793, it was confiscated the Duke de Berri, then of the Duke de to the nation, and was then called the Bordeaux. It was the residence of Napo- Palais du Tribunat. Under the Empire it leon III. while President of the Repullic. resumed its original name, and the Prince The principal apartment in this palace is Lucien resided here. In 1848 it was comthe Salle des Souverains. It was here Na- pletely devastated by the mob; but in poleon signed his abdication, and here also 1858 it underwent a complete repair preher majesty Queen Victoria and Prince paratory to being occupied by Prince NapoAlbert partook of an elegant collation in leon and the Princess Clotilde. Visitors 1855. Some of the finest portraits in Par- are not allowed to enter the private apartis adorn the walls of this saloon, among ments. The garden of the palace is 700 which are Frederick William IV. of Prus- feet long by 300 wide; has a beautiful sia, Victor Emanuel II., Queen Victoria, fountain in the centre, and is planted with the Sultan of Turkey, Abdul Medjid, Isa- rows of lime-trees, and contains many very bella II. of Spain, Francis Joseph of Aus- fine statues. It is the resort at all hours tria, and Ferdinand II. of Naples. Next of politicians of all sorts and ranks, who to this is the favorite bedroom of the Em- congregate here for the purpose of comperor Napoleon I. After passing through paring notes and reading the daily jourthe Salle des Quatre Saisons and the libra- nals, which are hired here for one sou each. ry, you are ushered into the apartment fit- There is an arcade extending round the ted up by Madame Murat for the reception garden, under which arc the most elegant of her husband after one of his campaigns, shops in Paris, mostly occupied by watchwhere in every battle fought lie was vic- makers and jewelers. At the north end torious. It is fitted up as a tent, the orna- some of the finest caf6s in the city are sitments being all of a warlike character. uated, such as Vlry's and Vffour's. The The Empress Marie Louise also occupied best time to see this palace is in the eventhis room. The famous Ibrahim Pacha, ing, when the gardens and shops are brillviceroy of Egypt, was lodged here in 1846. iantly illuminated, and are filled with polTaken altogether, this palace is one of great iticians and idlers. In some of the reshistorical interest. A fee of one or two taurants on the second floor dinners are francs is expected. served at two francs and upward. The Palais Royal.-This is the most frequented of all the public edifices in Paris. It was erected by Cardinal Richelieu between the years 1620 and 1636, and was then called the Palais Cardinal. Richelieu presented it to Louis XIII., who, when he occupied it, changed its name to Palais Royal. On the death of Louis XIII., Anne of Austria, regent for the young king, removed.to it. In 1692, Louis XIV. gave it to his nephew, Duke of Orleans, as part of his marriage portion, on the occasion of his union with Mlle. de Blois. It had a theatre capable of holding 3000 spectators. Here the cardinal took great pride 850s southern front of the Palais Royal is on the Place du Palais Royal, which is bounded by the H6tel du Louvre on the east, and the new Palace of the Louvre on the south. This portion of the building was set on fire and almost entirely destroyed by the Communists (May 24, 1871) at the entrance of the troops into Paris. Palais du Luxembourg, directly south of the Louvre, on the other side of the Seine. Crossing the Pont des Arts, and up the Rue de Seine, we come to the Palace of the Luxembourg, built by Maria de Medicis. In the year 1612 she bequeathed it to her second son, the Duke of Orleans; it was thert called Palais d'Orleans. It afterward pass. ed through the hands of Duchess of Mont. PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. pensier, Duchess of Guise and Alenvon, Louis XIV., then Duchess of Brunswick, then Madame d'Orleans, queen dowager of Spain, then Count of Provence, afterward king Louis XVIII., who occupied it up to 1791. In 1795 the sittings of the Directory were held here; it was afterward occupied by the Consul and Senate. In 1848 Louis Blanc resided and held his socialist meetings here. The palace forms a regular square. In the centre of the facade Rue de Tournon is a beautiful pavilion surmounted by a cupola and ornamented with statues. The front facing the garden presents three main buildings connected by two galleries, one of which is now decorated with the pictures of the first living artists. The Salle du Senat, where the Senate holds its sittings is a semicircular hall of 90 feet in diameter; the seats gradually rise from the floor toward the wall. The ceiling is beautifully decorated with allegorical pictures of Patriotism, Wisdom, Justice, and Law. The Salle du Trone is a gorgeous saloon, mag-' nificently sculptured and gilded. On a platform situated at the centre of the wall to the right stood the throne, ascended by four steps, covered with a canopy, and richly gilded. The principal pictures in this hall are by Hesse: Napoleon I. at the Invalides, Napoleon I. inspecting the forty flags taken at Austerlitz. On the other side, the return of the Pope to Rome in 1849, Napoleon III. visiting the New Louvre, the Distribution of the Eagles in the Champ de Mars in 1852. Adjoining the Salle du Trone is the Cabinet de l'Empereur, which contains two or three very good modern paintings: The marriage of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugenie, Napoleon I. signing the Peace of Campo Formio, Napoleon III. returning from St. Cloud. The library of the palace is very complete, and contains over 40,000 volumes; it is not open to the public, but a stlranger mllay obtain admission by producing his passport. In the bedlcamber of Maria de Medicis, which is splendidly furnished, there are some fine works of art by Rubens, Poussin, and Philippe de Champagne. The chapel is small, but richly gilded, anl contains some very good paintings. Back of the altar, in a very conspicuous place, is a painting by one of our countrymen, M. Simon White: the subject is tne Adoration of the Shepherds. The Gallery of Modern Art, which is entered at the southeastern pavilion in the court, was founded by order of Maria de Medicis, and formerly contained the 24 pictures by Rubens now in the Louvre, which allegorically represented the history of that queen. It now contains the finest works of living artists. It is unnecessary to give the name of any leading work of art in these rooms, as it is liable at any moment to be removed to the Louvre. As none but pictures of deceased artists are admitted there, and those of living artists here, they are liable to a removal to the Louvre ten years after the death of an artist. The officers of the Senate intimated to that body in 1880 that these pictures must be removed, all the room being required by that body. The Palace of the Chamber of Deputies, formerly the Palace Bourbon, stands on the other side of the Seine. This palace was erected in 1722 by Louise, duchess dowager of Bourbon; it subsequently became the property of the Prince of Cond6, who enlarged it at an expense of $4,000,000. In 1795 it was selected for the meetings of the Council of " Five Hundred." During the first empire it was occupied by the Corps Legislatif. After the Restoration, it was again taken possession of by the Prince of Cond6, and the part that had been occupied by the Corps Legislatif was appropriated to the use of the Chamber of Deputies. In 1848 the National Assembly took possession of it. The principal entrance, which is very elegant, is on Rue de l'Universit6; its lofty gateway is placed in the centre of a Corinthian colonnade, terminating with two fine pavilions. The palace has several courts, surrounded by handsome buildings, where reside the different officials of the Legislative Body. The fa(aade, built in 1804, is remarkable for its majestic portico. ornamented with twelve Corinthian col umns resting on a broad flight of thirty steps. The pediment is adorned with a large number of allegorical figures. At the foot of the steps are colossal statues of Prudence and Justice. It is now occupied in part by the President of the Chamber of Deputies. After having passed through several rooms ornamented by statues and paint351 PARIS. [FRANCE.]. PARTS. ings, we enter the Legislative Hall. It is semicircular, like the Hall of Representatives at Washington, except that there is no lobby behind the speaker's chair, which is situated in the centre of the semicircle. The seats rise rapidly in amphitheatre form to the back range, which rests against the wall at an elevation of ten feet. It is adorned with a colonnade and tribunes for the Corps Diplomatique and public. There are also tribunes erected for private use. February 24, 1848, while Louis Philippe was hastening toward St. Cloud, the Duchess of Orleans appeared in this hall with her two sons, the Count de Paris and Duke de Chartres, having traversed from the Tuileries on foot, and, taking a seat in an arm-chair, with her sons on either side, demanded through M. Dupin that her eldest son, the Count de Paris, be proclaimed King of the French under her own regency. M. Lamartine opposed it, wishing the discussion to be carried on without the presence of any of the members of the royal family. The tumult outside was now immense, and the duchess, with the Duchess of Montpensier and Nemours, tried to escape, but it was impossible. -The duchess now attempted to speak, but was silenced by a crowd of armed men who now rushed in. During the melee, she and the princess made their escape to the Hotel des Invalides, and next morning left Paris. The library of the palace contains 65,000 volumes; to obtain permission, apply to the secretary of the president. For those who wish to hear the debates, a pass will be given on application to your embassador. The deposition of the late imperial dynasty was voted by the Republicans September 4,1870. Palais de l'Industrie, commenced in 1852, and completed in 1855; it was inaugurated May 15, 1855, by the opening of the Exhibition of Industry for all nations, and, during the 198 days it was open, over 22,000 persons entered it daily. It has been purchased by the government from the company who erected it, and is now used for agricultural shows, and the exhibition of the works of living artists. On either side of the eastern entrance stand two beautiful equestrian statues. The grounds around the palace are beautifully decorated with fountains, flower-beds, and grass-plots. The building is entirely constructed of 852 stone and iron, with a glass roof. Its length is nearly 700 feet, and width 170. 'he whole design of the interior is very simple. Palais du Quai d'Orsay.-This magnificent edifice was begun during the reign of Napoleon I., but was not completed until the time of Louis 'hilippe. It was set on fire and destroyed at the fall of the Colnmune (May 24, 1871). The front, facing the Rue de Lille, contained the chief entrances of the Conseil d'Etat and the Cour des Comptes. The loss of the Salle des Pas Perdus, a large square apartment, in which four Doric columns, with spiral flutes, supported a gallery opening into a vestibule in the upper story, and the destruction of several valuable paintings, are much to be deplored. Palais do la Legion d' Honneur was built in 1786, by the architect Rousseau, for the Prince of Salm, but was bought by the government in 1830. The entrance is in the form of a triumphal arch of Ionic order, flanked by a colonnade of the same kind. The front is decorated with six Corinthian columns, forming a portico, on which is an inscription, Honneur et Patrie. This palace, destroyed during the Commune, has been rebuilt by subscriptions from members of the Order of the Legion of Honor. Hitel des Affires Etrangeres, began in 1845 by M. Guizot, fronting on the Quai d'Orsay. The fagade is of the Doric and Ionic orders. The whole front is profusely sculptured. The offices of the ministry are on Rue de l'Universit6. Its whole cost was $1,000,000. Palais de l'Institut.-This building was constructed by the architects Lambert and Dorbay from the designs of Levan, according to the will of Cardinal Mazarin, and [FRANCE.] PARISr was finished in 1662. It contains two distinct establishments, the Bibliothaque Mazarine and the Institut de France. The present library contains 120,000 printed volumes and 50,000 manuscripts. The library consists of an octagonal room with a large gallery turning at right angles, 136 feet by 24, and a third room, 54 feet by 24. The principal room, in which the students are accommodated, was the site of the famous Tour de Nesle. The room contains several busts in marble and in bronze, among others those of Mazarin and Racine; here also is an inkstand of the great Cond6. The Institut.-The western pavilion leads to the grand hall, which is fitted up with benches forming a semicircle, in front of which are placed the seats and bureaux of the president, secretaries, etc. In this hall are marble statues of Bossuet, Descartes Fenelon, and Tully. The Bibliotheque de l'Institut contains about 60,000 volumes, among which are many valuable Oriental works. In the library is the celebrated marble statue of Voltaire by Pigalle. The Salle des Seances is adorned by statues of Racine, Corneille, Moliere, Lafontaine, Puget, and Poussin. Along the walls there are benches for the public, those in the centre being reserved for reporters. To obtain tickets of admission to the annual meetings, the application should be made at least one month beforehand. Hitel de Ville.-Burned during the Commune; to be rebuilt. It was erected for the accommodation of the municipality of Paris at a cost of over $3,000,000. It was commenced in 1533, and completed in 1605. The H1utel de Ville possesses great interest on account of the numerous historical events of which it has been the theatre. Here was to be seen the window from which Lafayette presented Louis Philippe to the people; the room, also, in which Louis XVI. spoke to the populace crowned with the cap of liberty; the room where Robespierre held his council; also the one in which he attempted to commit suicide. One of the three courts that comprised this edifice was approached by a broad flight of steps. On these steps M. de Lamartine, in the most courageous and heroic manner, declared to the infuriated mob that, as long as he lived, the red flag should not be the flag of France. The edifice was surmounted by a belfry, in which the town clock was placed. It was lighted at night. The Salle du Trone and state apartments were very magnificent. The Grand Galerie des Fietes, situated in the eastern wing, where all the city fetes are given, was beautiful beyond description. Communicating with this saloon was a gallery, whence guests could witness the magic scene below. It was in this room the ball was given in honor of the visit of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1855; also to Victor Emmanuel in 1855, and to the Grand-Duke Constintine in 1857. Over 7000 persons have been admitted to a city ball, ths circuit of rooms thrown open to the public being over half a mile. In addition to the state apartments, there were nearly 600 rooms in the hotel occupied by officers and clerks. Immediately underneath the Galerie des Fetes was situated the Salle St. Jean, used for civic purposes and public meetings. The destruction of this beautiful edifice, whose history was that of the French nation, has been sincerely deplored, and the building will be reconstructed as soon as possible. The Banque de France, in the Rue de la Vrilliere, was founded in 1803, and since the year 1848 it is the only bank allowed to issue notes. The capital of the bank is 182,500,000 fr. The building was formerly the hotel of the Duke de la Vrillire, but during the Revolution it was occupied by the descendants of the Count de Toulouse, one of whom was the Princesse de Lamballe. Many of the original paintings and decorations remain in the rooms. The vaults are of enormous extent, and on any alarm of fire or robbery they can instantly be flooded. La Bourse, or the Exchange.-This superb structure, which is built in the same style as the Madeleine, was erected on the site of the Convent des Filles St. Thomas, Rue Vivienne. It was commenced in 1808, and finished in 1826. Its length is 212 feet by 126;. the principal facade is ap353' PARIS. [FRANCE.] PAR,. preached by a flight of steps, which extend Consulate and Empire.. Here also we per. the whole length of the western front. ceive a medal in bronze, from the mask The building is surrounded by 66 Corinth- taken at St. Helena of Napoleon I. twenian columns, supporting an entablature and ty hours after his death; also his bust, in attic. There are four statues placed at the marble, by Canova. By a law of France, corners of the edifice, representing Corn- every jeweler is obliged to have his silver merce, Industry, Agriculture, and Naviga- and gold stamped and assayed in this office tion. The hall, called the Salle de Bourse, before offering it for sale. The laboratory is 116 feet long by 76 broad: here the mer- of the hotel, where the operation of coining chants and stock-brokers meet from 12 to 3 for the whole of France takes place, is well o'clock to negotiate the sale of stocks, and worth a visit. All the machinery of the from 3 to 51 P.M. for other business. The establishment is worked by two steam-enfloor of this hall is capable of holding 2000 gines of 32 horse-power. There are eleven people. Travelers should never fail to visit different machines: two for small coin,. the Bourse; during business hours the ex. two for two-franc pieces, six for five-franc citement. noise, tumult, and confusion are pieces, and one for gold. When they are all beyond description. Ladies are not now in operation they produce about $300,000 admitted except by permission of the Corn- per day. The operation of coining silver missaire de la Bourse. The entrance fee may be witnessed by the visitor, but not was formerly one franc. It was found the coining of gold, on account of the parthat the mode of selling stock excited such tides which are continually dropping on a passion for gambling in the minds of the the floor; they are all swept up and refined people, that it was deemed prudent to refuse again. To visit the laboratory, apply in them admittance during business hours. writing to M. le President de la CommisMint, or Hotel des Monnaies, situated on saire des Monnaies; but the museum is the Quai de Conti.-This superb building, open to visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays, constructed between the years 1771 and from 12 to 3, without a ticket. 1775, on the site of the Hotel Conti, is one Manufacture Nationale des Gobelins et de of the most remarkable structures in the la Savonnerie.-This factory, founded by capital. The principal front is 350 feet in Jean Gobelin in 1450, was for a long time length and 80 in height. It has three sto- a private establishment, but in 1662 it passries. Onthe ground floor are five arcades, ed into the hands of the government. The supporting six Ionic columns crowned with carpets made here are unrivaled for the an entablature, and ornamented with six fineness and strength of their texture and statues of Peace, Abundance, Trade, Pow- brilliancy of the colors. Its productions er, Prudence, and Law. The vestibule is are destined chiefly for palaces of the state adorned with fluted Doric columns. On and presents to foreign governments. the right is the magnificent staircase, like- Many of them cost as much as $30,000, wise adorned with Doric columns. Ascend- and require over ten years of time to maning the staircase, we enter an antechamber ufacture. There was one made for the palwhich contains the coining machine in- ace of the Louvre 1300 feet in length. The vented by Thouvelin, from which we pass closeness with which the workmen rival into the splendid saloon entitled Muse the painter's art is truly wonderful. Three Montaire, possessing the most complete large rooms are open for the exhibition of collection of medals since the reign of beautiful specimens of the work executed Francis I.: medals of Mary, Queen of Scots, in the last 200 years. There are 6 workLouis XII., Henry VIII., Cardinal Riche- shops containing 25 looms. It is absolutely lieu; medal commemorating the taking of necessary to bring your passport to secure Sebastopol; Queen Victoria's visit to Par- admittance. The shops and exhibition is; visit of the French National Guard rooms are open from 2 to 4 on Wednesdays to London in 1848; the proclamation of and Saturdays. A portion of the building the Empire; the marriage of Napoleon was destroyed during the Commune, May, III.; medals of Victor Emmanuel, Kos- 1871. Another state carpet manufactory suth, Queen Isabella of Spain, and numer- was transferred to the Gobelins in 1826, ous others of equal notoriety. In the Salle called La Savonnerie, from having been WNaptoon are all medals struck under the formerly carried on in an old soap factory. s m, ' PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIA Imprimerie Nationale, or the Government Printing Office.-In the year 1552 Francis I. established a royal press in the Louvre, which, after several changes, was finally transferred, in the year 1809, to the building it now occupies. This hotel was the property of the notorious Cardinal de Rohan, whose intrigues cast so much odium on the unhappy Marie Antoinette. This is one of the most complete establishments in Europe. There are about 1000 persons employed here, among whom 300 are women, and every thing, from the casting of the type to the binding, is done in this establishment. In 1830 many of the steam presses were broken by the mob, but ten still remain, and about 350,000 sheets are thrown off daily. The printing of the ace of clubs, of the kings, queens, and knaves of cards, is a government monopoly in France, and about 12,000 sets are printed every day. When Pius VII. visited this establishment, the Lord's Prayer was printed in 150 different languages during his visit, and he was presented with it all bound before his return to the carriage. This building may be seen on Thursdays, at 2 P.M. precisely, with a ticket, which must be applied for by a letter addressed to M. le Directeur de l'Imprimerie Nationale. La MIanufacture de Porcelaine de Sevres. -Sevres, two leagues west of Paris, is prettily situated on the Seine, and is one of the most ancient villages near the metropolis. It is celebrated for its magnificent Porcelain Mfanufactory, belonging to the government, which will soon be transferred to the Park of St. Cloud. Louis XV. bought this establishmert in 1759, at the solicitation of Madame de Pompadour, and since then it has belonged to the state. The establishment consists of the show-rooms or magasins, the museum, and the laboratories or ateliers; these last, however, are not shown without special leave, which must be obtained by a letter to the directeur. Manufacture des Tabacs.-The manufacture of tobacco, in any form, is a governmnent monopoly in France. There are about 10 different manufactories throughout the kingdom, but the one in Paris works up one third of the tobacco bought Iry the government from the tobacco-growers. All tobacco imported must also be sold to the government. There are about VOL. I.-Q 2 1900 persons employed here, of whom 1500 are women, 400 men and boys. The women are chiefly employed in cigar-makin-r. The whole process may be seen, from the stripping of the leaves to the final production. H!tel des Postes, or General Post-office, in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, was built by the Duke d'Etpernon, and bore the name of Armenonville until 1757, when it was purchased by the government ior the General Post-office. AEntrepot des Glaces, in the Rue St. Denis, 212, is a large plate-glass warehouse, belonging to two companies, that of Monterme and of Quirin and Cirey. The looking-glasses are cast at St. Gobain and at Cirey, near La Fere, polished at Chauny, and silvered at this depot. The process of silvering may be seen any day from 9 to 12 by application to the porter, who will expect a small fee. The Pantheon is situated on Place du Pantheon, Rue St. Jacques. This church was erected on the site of the Abbey of Ste. Genevieve. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, with a lofty dome. The portico is modeled after the Pantheon at Rome; it is approached by a flight of 11 steps, and sustained by 6 fluted Corinthian columns, 60 feet high by 6 in diameter; on the pavement there is a composition in re. lief by David, representing France dispensing honors to her great men, who have honored and illustrated her by their talents, virtue, and courage. At the feet of France are seated History and Liberty, recording their names, and wearing crowns to reward them. The dimensions of the building are, length, 302 feet; breadth, 255 feet; height from the pavement to the top of the dome, 270 feet. The interior consists of four naves, surmounted by the dome, and separated by a range of 130 fluted Corinthian columns. The ceilings, which are richly sculptured, are 80 feet from the pavement; the dome is splendidly painted by Gros, for which he received $20,000, and was knighted by Charles X. on his first visit to the church. The nave and transepts are decorated with copies of the frescoes of Michael Angelo and Raphael in the Vatican at Rome. Many persons of great celebrity have been buried here, among others Voltaire, Rousseau, Marshal Lannes, the Duke de Montebello, 355 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Mirabeau, and Marat: the last two were depantheonized by order of the national government, and the body of Marat was thrown into a common sewer in the Rue Montmartre. This building has cost the government over $6,000,000 since it was founded. Open every day; a fee of a franc is expected from a party. Hotel Pompeien, the former Mansion of Prince Napoleon, now in the possession of Count Palify, a Hungarian nobleman. The mansion is built in the style of Diomede's house at Pompeii, as described by Bulwer in his "Last Days of Pompeii," and in keeping with the paintings and furniture of the houses of that ill-fated city, which have been and are daily being discovered at Pompeii. On the right and on the left of the entrance stand the bronze statues of Minerva and Achilles. On the pavement in front of the entrance a dog is represented in mosaic, with the words " Cave canem" (beware of the dog); on entering, the word "Salve" (Hail! Welcome!). The walls of the vestibule are beautifully frescoed. The Seasons, the heathen goddesses Panthea and Hygeia, flower-beds, birds, and animals, are all admirably represented, being copied from the antique paintings of Pompeii. We now enter the inner court, or atrium of the ancients. In the centre of the court is a basin of white marble, in which all kinds of pretty fish are floating around. The bottom of the basin is paved with marble, inlaid with white, yellow, and green. On the right is the drawing-room, splendidly decorated in imitation of rosso antico. The adjoining dressing-room is hung with yellow velours and the bedroom with blue. On the left of the court is the library, gymnasium, and smoking-room. There are two beautiful bath-rooms, one of which is intended for swimming; the other is of ordinary size, the floor, walls, and ceiling being covered with a peculiar and beautiful kind of alabaster, the whole surmounted by a dome painted blue, with stars. Maison de Francois ler, which Francis I. built at Moret for his sister Margaret, and which was afterward transferred to its present situation in the Cours la Reine, corner of Rue Bayard. The walls are adorned with medallions attributed to Jean Goujon: Louis XII., Anne de Bretagne, Francis II, Marguerite de Navarre, Henri II., 356 Diane de Poitiers, and Francis I. On the outside is the following inscription: "Qlii scit frenare li iguall, Eensirnque domare, Fortir est illo quifrangit viribus urbes." Maison deP. Corneille (Rue d'Argenteuil, 18).-In the court is a bust of the poet with this inscription: "Je ne dois qu'a moi seul toute ma renomnme." In the second story is the room in which Corneille breathed his last. JMaison de Racine (Rue Visconti, 19).Racine died in this house in 1699, after having lived in it for forty years. SPORTS. Flat-races and steeple-chases take place annually in April, May, and June, and in the autumn. The reunion in the spring occupies six days, that of summer and autumn three days respectively. The Societe d'Encouragement pour l'Amelioration dex Chevaux en France organizes these reunions and awards the prizes. It was organized in 1833 to render racing more popular, and to engage the government to increase the value of the prizes. The society is under the control of the Paris Jockey Club, probably the first institution of its kind in the world. A committee of 30 is charged exclusively with all relating to the races, and with the use of the funds devoted to that purpose. Three commissioners, chosen annually by this committee, are the sovereign judges of the races. The rooms of the Jockey Club are in Rue PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Scribe, 1 bis. The Imperial family formerly gave three prizes during the season: that of the Empress (15,000 fr.) in the spring; that of the Prince Imperial (10,000 fr.), and that of the Emperor (20,000 fr.) in the autumn. At the summer meeting of Longchamps the Grand Prix de Paris is run for. The stakes consist of 100,000 fr., given one half by the city of Paris and the remainder by the five great railway companies and the individual entries. The races of Paris take place in the Plain de Longchamps; others have also been organized at Chantilly, Fontainebleau, and Vincennes. Hippodrome de Longchamps, granted by the city to the Jockey Club, was inaugurated in April, 1857. It is 1500 metres in length by 300 in breadth. The late Emperor's pavilion stands alone, with two tribunes on each side; it is now occupied by the President of the Republic. It consists of a saloon and sitting-room, beautifully fitted up, opening on a platform, from which a staircase descends to the racecourse. The pavilion is surmounted by a gabled roof, in the style of an ornamental Swiss cottage. The stand east of the pavilion is set apart for the members of the Jockey Club. Adjoining this is the tribune for first-class spectators; this portion is called the pesage, or weighing-place, from which all improper persons are excluded. Admission, 20 francs. Visitors with these tickets can go into any part of the field or stands, the stand of the Jockey Club excepted. Pavilions on either side, 5 francs. Carriages with two horses into the field, 20 francs; pedestrians, 1 franc. Longchamps is one of the finest courses in the world, if not the finest, and is largely attended. On Grand Prix day one would suppose that all Paris was present and half of London. Steeple-chases and Hurdle-racing takes place also in the Bois de Boulogne, near A uteil. The tribunes are very comfortable, and the racing generally good. Prices the same as at Longchamps. MUSEUMS. Musee de Louvre.-Open to visitors every day except Monday. The numerous collections at the Louvre are divided thus: 1. Museum of Painting. 2. Museum of Antique Ceramics. 3. Egyptian Museum. 4. Museum of Roman and Grecian Antiquities. 5. Mediaeval and Renaissance Museum, including the Sauvageot Collection. 6. Museum of Drawings, Pastels, Cartoons, etc. 7. Museum of Antique Bronzes. 8. Ethnographic Museum. 9. Naval Museum. 10. Museum of Antique or Greek and Roman Sculpture. 31. Museum of Modern Sculpture. 12. Museum of Mediaeval and Renais. sance Sculpture. 13. Museum of Egyptian Sculpture. 14. Algerian Museum. 15. Museum of Assyrian and Asia Minot Antiquities. 16. Museum of Engravings or Chalcog: raphie. Musee de Peinture.-This museum contains 558 paintings of the Italian schools, 618 of the German, Flemish, and Dutch schools, upwards of 700 of the French school, and 20 of the Spanish. [This being a period of great alterations in the arrangement of the pictures, inaea curacies in the catalogues are unavoidable; nor is it expected that the new and complete one now in preparation can be ready before the latter end of this year, 1876.] Entering by the Pavillon Sully or de l'Horloge, and ascending the stair Henri II., you find on the right side the Ancienne Salle des Sances, containing the Mus6e La Caze, a collection of 275 paint-.... S. PARBS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. ings presented by Louis la Caze, M.D., among which we remark, 260, Watteau, Pierrot; 51, Ph. de Champagne, a magistrate in his robes of office; 116, Snyders, a fishmonger's shop; 32, Ribera, a lame boy carrying his crutch on his shoulder; 155, an old lady, Dutch school; 78, Maes, an old country-woman praying before meal; 340, Regnault, the three Graces. The next room is called Salle Henri II. The large picture facing the entrance is Medaro and Angelica, by Coypel, a subject from Ariosto's poem, "Orlando Furioso;" here are also some fruit and flower pieces by, Gerard van Spaendouck and Van Dael. We now enter the Salle des Sept Cheminees, containing the principal paintings of the modern French school; namely, the masterpieces of David, Gros, Girodet, Prudhon, Gericault, Gerard, Guerin. and others. Here died Henry IV., after he had been stabbed by Ravaillac. 83, Madame Lebrun, Portrait of herself and daughter; (not catalogued) ddem., Portrait of herself; 84, Idem., Portrait du Compositeur Paesiello; 148, David, L6onidas aux Thermopiles; 149, Idem., l'Enlevement des Sabines; 152, Idem., Belisaire; 157, Idem., Portrait de Pecoul, beau-pbre de David; 158, Idem., Portrait de Madame Pecoul; 159, Idem., Portrait du Pape Pie VII.; (not catalogued) Idem., Portraits of a lady and gentleman; 189, Drouais, Marins a Minturnes; 192, Fabre, N6optoleme et Ulysse enlevent s Philoctete les fibches d'Hercule; 236, Grsd, Psyche reqoit le premier baiser de l'Amour; 238, Idem., La Victoire et la Renommie; 239, Idem., L'Histoire et la Po6sie; 240, Idem., Portraits d'Isabey, peintre:en miniature et de sa fille; 241, Idem., Portrait de Canova, statuaire; 242, Ghricault, Le radeau de la Meduse; 243, Jdem., Officier de chasseurs A cheval; 244, Idem., Cuirassier bless6 quittant la feu; 245, Idem., Portrait d'un Cuirassier, nutcte; (not catalogued) Idem., Une Course de chevaux; 250,Girodet, Scbne du Dl6uge; 251, Idem., Le Sommeil d'Endymion; 252, Idem., Atala au tombeau; 256, Granet, Intkrieur de l'6glise St. Fran9ois d'Assise; 274, Gros, Bonaparte visitant les pestifbres de Jaffa; 275,Idem., Napoleon visitant le Champ de bataille d'Eylau; 277, Guerin, Retour de Marcus Sextus; 279, Idem., Phedre et Hippolyte; 280, Idem., Andromaque et Pyrrhus; 282, Idem., Clytemnes358 tre; 458, Prudhon, L'Assomption; 459, Idem., La Justice et la Vengeance poursuivant le Crime; 460, Idem., Portrait de Madame Jarre; (not catalogued) Idem., a young girl; 466, IRegnault, Education d'Achille par le Centaure Chiron; 127, Cochereau, L'Atelier de David; (not catalogued) Pagnest, Portrait of a general officer; (not catalogued) Madame Haudebourt Lescot, Portrait of a lady; (not catalogued) Mlauzaisse, an old lady reading. The next room is the Salle des Bijoux (formerly Salle des Bronzes), containing beautiful Italian and other jewels. We then enter the Salle Ronde. The ceiling is beautifully frescoed, and the pavement a fine mosaic. It opens into the Galerie d'Apollon. This splendid gallery is one of the finest in the Louvre. For over one hundred years it has been occupied as a picture-gallery, and was rejuvenated in 1851 by Napoleon III. It commands a fine view both of the Seine and the garden. Portraits of many of the leading artists and of monarchs who have engaged in the building of the Louvre, finely executed in Gobelins tapestry, adorn the walls. Next we pass into the Salon Carre: 27, Correggio, Mariage de Sainte Catherine d'Alexandrie avec l'Enfant Jesus; 28, Idem., Le Sommeil d'Antiope; 34, Caravage, Un concert; 35, Idem., Portrait d'Alof de Vignacourt, grand maitre de Malte en 1601; 44, Georgion (Georgio Barbarelli), Concert champetre; 48, Le Guerehin, La Resurrection de Lazare; 55, Idem., Les saints protecteurs de la ville de Modbne; 87, Philip de Champagne, Portrait du Cardinal de Richelieu; 89, Bordone, Portrait d'homme; 94, Bronzino, Portrait d'un sculpteur; 103, Paul Veronase, Les Noces de Cana; 104, Idem., Repas chez lo Pharisien; 107 bis, Idem., Jupiter foudroyant le Crime; 138, Annibal Carrache, Apparition de la Sainte Vierge a Saint Luc et a Sainte Catherine; 142, Van Dyck, Portrait Charles Ier roi d'Angleterre, n6 en 1600, mort en 1649; 150, Idem., Portrait de Jean Grusset Richardot et de son fils; 162, Jan Van Eyck, La Vierge au Donateur; 204, Domenico Ghirlandaio, La Visitation; 208, IHolbein, Portrait de Didier Erasme, ne a Rotterdam en 1467, mort a Bale en 1536; 129, Claude Lorrain, Paysage; 228, Idem., Marine; 239, Seberti, La Visitation de la Vierge; 242, Luini ou Lovini da Luino, SalomE fille d'Herodiade, recevant la thte PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. de Saint Jean-Baptiste; 288, Memling, Saint Jean-Baptiste; 289, Idem., Sainte Marie Madeleine; 293, Mlietsu, Militaire recevant une jeune Dame; 303, Bassano, Apprets de la sepulture du Christ; 318, Raibolini (Francia), Portrait d'homme; 349, Le Tintoret, Suzanne au bain; 370, Adrien van Ostade, Le Maitre d'Ecole; 375, Raphael, La Vierge, l'Enfant Jesus, et le jeune Saint Jean; 376, Idem., La Vierge, 1'Enfant Jesus endormi, le jeune Saint Jean; 377, Idem., Sainte Famille; 378, Idem., La Vierge et Sainte Elisabeth caressant Saint Jean enfant; 380, Idem., Saint Michael; 381,Idem., Saint Georges; 382, Idem., Saint Michael terrassant le demon; 387, Idem., L'Abondance; 403, Solario, La Vierge allaitant l'Enfant J6sus; 410, Rembrandt, Le Menage du Menuisier; 419, [dem., Portrait de femme; 433, Rubens, Thomyris, reine des Scythes, fait phlonger la tete de Cyrus dans un vase rempli de sang; 434, Nicolas Poussin, Saint Fran9ois Xavier rappelant a la vie la fille d'un habitant de Cangorina (dans le Japon); 447, Idem., Son portrait; 442, Perugino, La Viergo tenant l'Enfant Jesus; 460, Rubens, Portrait de la seconde femme du peintre et de ses deux enfants; 465, Idem., Le Christ porte au Tombeau; 471, Idem., Portraits d'une jeune femme A sa toilette et d'un homme tenant deux miroirs; 477, Rigaud, Portrait de Bossuet; 481,-Leonardo da Vinci, La Vierge, l'Enfant J6sus et Sainte Anne; 484, Idem., Portrait de Mona Lisa; 523, Eustache Lesueur, Apparition de Sainte Scolastique A Saint Benoit; 526, Terburg, Un Militaire offrant de 'argent a une jeune femme; 546 bis, Murllo, La Conception immaculee de la Vierge; 553, Ribera ou Espagnolet, L'Adoration des Bergers; 587, Valentin, Concert. In the Grande Galerie are: Italian School.-364, Cosimo Rosselli, La Vierge et 1'Enfant Jesus; 200, Ralffellino del Garbo, Le Couronnement de la Vierge; 240, B. Luino, Sainte Famille; 297, Giulio Romano, his own likeness; 453, Vasari, La Salutation ang6lique; 93, Bronzino, Le Christ apparalt h la Madeleine; 468, Titian, Jupiter et Antiope, or La Venus du Prado; 298, Bassano, L'Entrbe des Animaux dans l'Arche; 307, Idem., Portrait de Jean de Boulogne, sculpteur, 1lbve de Michel Ange; 352, Tintoretto, his own likeness; 107, Paul VWronese, Les Pelerins d'Emmatts; 113, Canaletto, Vue de 1'Eglise de la Madonna della Salute, h Venise; 61, Barocci, La Vierge et l'Enfant Jesus adores par Saint Antoine et Sainte Lucie; 126, L. Carracci, La Vierge et l'Enfant Jesus; 128, Idem., Apparition de la Vierge et de l'Enfant Jesus h Saint Hyacinthe; 136, Annibal Carrache, La Vierge aux Cerises; 142, Idemn., La Resurrection de Jesus Christ; 493, Domenichino, Le Ravissement de Saint Paul; 494, Idem., Sainte Cecile; 498, Idem., Triomphe de l'Amour; 339, Le Guide, Enlevement d'Helene; 9, L'Albane, La Toilette de Venus; 10, Idem., Le Repos de Venus et de Vulcain; 11, Idem., Les Amours desarmes; 12, Idem., Adonis conduit pros de Venus par les Amours; 33, Caravage, La Diseuse de bonne aventure; 73, Pierre de Cortone, Alliance de Jacob et de Laban; 74, Idem., Nativite de laVierge; 361, Salvator Rosa, Paysage; 208, Luca Giordano, Mars et Venus. Spanish School.-555, Velasquez, Portrait de la seconde fille de Philippe IV.; 550 bis, Idem., La Cuisine des Anges; 551, Idem., Le Jeune Mendiant. German School.-In this museum are several portraits by HIolbein, besides works by the following artists: Balthasar Denner, Christian, Adam Elzaheimer, and Raphael Mengs. Flemish and Dutch Schools.-279, Quinten Matsys, Le Banquier et sa femme; 394, Porbus le Jeune, Portrait d'Henri IV.; 343, Sir Antonis Moro, Le Nain de Charles Quint; from 434 to 457, Rubens, Histoire de Marie de Medicis; 425, Idem., La Fuite de Loth; 428, Idem., La Vierge aux Anges; 350, Theodore van Thulden, Le Christ apparaissant a la Vierge; 255, Jordaens, Le Roi bolt; 256, Idem., Concert de famille; 137, Van Dyck, La Vierge aux Donateurs; 138, Idem., Le Christ pleure par le Vierge et par les Anges; 148, Idem., Portraits d'un homme et d'un enfant; 149, Idem., Portraits d'une dame et de sa fille; 152, Idem., Portrait de Van Dyck; 215, Gerard Honthorst, Pilate se lavant les mains de la mort du Juste; 217, Idem., Triomphe de Silbne; 404, Rembrandt, L'Ange RaphaOl quittant Tobie; 407, Idem., Les Pelerins d'Emmails; 408 and 409, Idem., Deux Philosophes en meditation; 83, Philip de Champagne, Portrait de deux religieuses de Port Royal; 89, Idem., Portrait de l'Auteur; 304, Vas der Meulen, Entr6e de Louis XIV. etde Marie Thbr6se ~I Arras; 306, Idem., Prise.. ' 3599 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. de Dinant; 309, Idem., Un Combat pros du Canal de Bruges; 310, Idem., Arrivee du roi devant Maastricht; 558, Adrien van der Werf, Moise sauve des eaux; 560, Idem., Les Anges annonpant aux Bergers la bonne nouvelle; 60, Jean Breughel, Bataille d'Arbelles; 386, Corneille Poelemburg, Femmes sortant du bain; 123, Gerard Dow, L'Epiciere de village; 125, Idem., La Cuisiniere Hollandaise; 128, Idem., L'Arracheur de dents; 129, Idem., Une Lecture de la Bible; 130, Idem., Portrait du peintre; 527, Gerard Terburg, Music-lesson; 512, David Teniers, L'Enfant prodigue buvant avec des Courtisanes; 513, Idenz., Les sept (Euvres de misericorde; 514, Idem., Tentation de Saint Antoine; 377, Isaac van Ostade, La Halte; 244, Karel du Jardin, Le Gu6; 246, Idem., Le Bocage; 500, Jean Steen, Fete flainande; 570, Philip Wouverman, Le Manege; 292, Metsu, Le Marche aux herbes d'Amsterdam; 579, Jean Wrynants, Lisiere de Foret; 580, Idem., Paysage; 104, Albert Cuyp, Paysage; 105, Idem., Depart pour la Promenade; 106, Idem., La Promenade; 43, Jean Both, Paysage; 355, Van der Neer, Clair de lune; 470, Jacques Ruisdael, Foret; 471, Idem., Tempete sur la plage de Hollande; 473, Idem., Coup de soleil; 472, Idem.. Paysage; 205, Hobbema, Paysage; 202, Van der Heyden, Maison commune d'Amsterdam; 5, Ludolph Backhuysen, L'Escadre Hollandaise; 348, Peter Neefs, Vue d'une cathbdrale; 223, Peter de Hoogh, Interieur Hollandais; 177, Jean Fyt, Gibier et fruits; 178, Idem., Gibier dans un garde-manger; 179, Idem., Un chien devorant du gibier; 554, Jean Weenix, Gibier et utensiles de chasse; 555, Idem., Les Produits de la chasse; 192, David de Heem, Fruits; 235, Van HIysum, Corbeilles et vases de fleurs. A. suite of rooms entered from the Long Gallery, including the splendidly decorated Salon Denon, contains the paintings of the French school. Here are: 137, Jean Cousin, Le Jugement dernier; 416, Nicolas Poussin, Moise sauv6 des eaux; 415, Idem., EliBzer et Rebecca; 445, Idem., Les Bergers d'Arcadie; 451, Idem.,.Le Deluge; 231, Claude Lorrain, Le Passage du Gue; 220, Idem., Vue du Campo Vaccino; 221, Idemi, Fete villageoise; 520, Eustache Lesueur, Saint Gervais et Saint Protais refusent de sacrifier aux faux dieux; 521, Idem, Predication de SaintPaul a Ephbse; 36Q from 70 to 74, Lebrn, Batailles d'Alexandre; 65, Idem., Saint Etienne lapid8; 260, Greuze, L'Accordee de village; 261, Idem., La Malediction paternelle; 262, Idem., Retour du fils maudit; 634, Joseph Vien, Saint Germain et Saint Vincent; 150, David, Le Serment des Horaces; 154, Idem., Les Amours de Paris et d'He61ne; 281, Pierre Guerin, En6e et Didon; 235, Francois Gerard, Entree d'Henri IV. A Paris; 457, Pierre Prudhon, Le Christ sur la Croix; 493, Leopold Robert, L'Arrivee des Moissonneurs dans les marais Pontins; 494, Iderm., Le retour du pelerinage h la Madone de l'Arc; 499, Xavier Sigalon, La jeune Courtisane. Entered from the Salon Denon is the Salle des Etats, where Napoleon III. used to open the Chambers, and which at present is closed. Going back to the Long Gallery, we find at the end of it, near Salon Carre, on the left hand, the entrance to Galerie des Sept Metres, or Petite Salle Italienne. Here are collected some of the best works of renowned Italian painters, among which we particularly notice: 177, Lorenzo di Credi, Virgin and Child; 353, Tintoretto, a Portrait; 294, Giulio Romano, Madonna, Child, and St. John; 295, Idem., a Roman Triumph; 99, Paolo Veronese, Esther fainting. Now, from Salon Carre, we enter (left hand) the _Musee des Antiquites Etrusques, where splendid fresco paintings and mosaic tables are to be seen. You now retrace your steps to the Salle des Sept Cheminees, a door to the right of which conducts you to the museum of Antique Ceramics, consisting of nine rooms, in which are collected upward of six thousand objects, such as vases, statues, lamps, valuable bas-reliefs from the East, Greece, and Italy. The ceilings of the different rooms represent the following subjects: 1st room, Richelieu presentant le Poussin a Louis XIII., byAlaux; 2d room, Bataille d'lvry, by Steuben; 3d room, Le Puget presentant e Louis XIV. son groupe de Milon de Crotone, by Devbria; 4th room, Francois Ier recevant le Primatice a son retour d'Italie, by Fragonard; 5th room, La Renaissance des Arts en France, and eight Scenes de lhistoire de France, from the reign of Charles VIII. until the death of Henry II., by M. Heim; 6th room, Franfois Ie armi par Bayard, by Fragonard; 7th room, Charlemagne re PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. cevant des livres d'Alcuin, by M. Schnetz; 8th room, Louis XlI. proclame Pere du Peuple aux Etats de Tours, by M. Drolling; 9th room, L'Expidition d'Fqypte, by M. L. Cogniet. This room communicates on the left with the last saloon of the Egyptian Museum, founded by Charles X. The ceilings of this museum are also decorated in the following order: 1st room, in returning toward the Salle des Sept Chemines, Le Genie de la France encourageant les A rts, et prenant la Grace sous sa protection, by Gros; 2d room, Jules II. dornant des ordres pour la construction de Saint Pierre a Bramante, a Michel Ange et a Raphtel, by H. Vernet; 3d room, L'Fgypte sauvee par Joseph, by A. Pujol; 4th room, L'Etude et le Ginie devoilant l'Egypte a la Grece, by Picot. The fifth room is divided into three parts by Corinthian columns. In the centre of the floor is a rich mosaic. The ceiling, painted by Gros, is divided into nine parts; those in the middle represent Mlars couronne par le Victoire et arrete par la Moderation, la Gloire s'appuyant sur la Vertu, le Temps mettant la Verite sous la protection de la Sagesse; the six others are dedicated to the centuries most celebrated in the arts. We next enter the Musee Grec et Romain, the ceilings of which are also decorated by most beautiful paintings; 1st room, Cybele protigeant Ierculanum et Pompi contre les feux du Vesuve, by Picot: 2d room, Les Nymphes de Parthenope, portant leurs penates arrivent sur les bords de la Seine, by Meynier; 3d room, Le VIsuve recevant de Jupiter le feu qui doit consumer tlerculanumn et Poimpi, by MI. Heim; 4th room. Apotheose d' lomere. Returning through the 3Musee Emyptien to the Corinthian staircase, we enter a suite of five rooms, called IIistorjctl Rooms (formerly Musee des Souverains, lately suppressed). In the first room are two marble statues. In the second, a centre-table bearing a silvered bronze statue. In the third, a silvered bronze statue of Peace (rescued from the Tuileries disaster) and two marble Cippi. In the fourth, a silver statue of Henry IV. in his youth; a collection of miniature paintings, in five glass cases, presented by Mons. and Madame Lenoir; two beautiful Egyptian saddles, in glass cases, brought to France by Napoleon I.; on three sides of this room are glass presses filled with numerous objects, including the caparisons belonging to the saddles above mentioned. In the fifth room (Salon de l'Empereur) stands a silvered bronze statue of Napoleon I. when a student at Brienne; near the middle window is a large marble basin and a bench used by Napoleon at St. Helena. On three sides of this hall are empty glass presses. The first two of the three rooms entered from this suite, formerly called Musee de la Colonnade, are completely empty. The third one is occupied by the American Gallery, consisting of a fine collection of Peruvian and Mexican antique relics, presented to the museum by Mons. Andrand, formerly Consul in Bolivia. [The ulterior destination of these rooms is uncertain.] Crossing the landing-place, we first visit a suite of seven rooms, called Galeries de la Renaissance et du Moyen Age, including the celebrated Sauvageot collection. Here are gathered a very great number of objects, consisting of carved ivory, stained glass, earthenware, etc. We then enter the first of a series of fourteen rooms containing the Museum of Drawings, including pastels, cartoons, etc. [Two more rooms belonging to this museum are on the floor above, near the Musee de lai Arine.] The collection of designs of the old masters in the Louvre is about the richest in Europe. Several of the most celebrated painters, the absence of whose works is regretted in the Gallery of Paintings, figure here among the sketches. The Museum of Drawings, from an inventory taken in 1866, contains 18,200 designs of the different Italian schools, 87 of the Spanish school, 802 of the German school, 3152 of the Flemish school, 1071 of the Dutch school, 11,738 of the French school, 11 of the English school, and others whose school is not determined-making in all 35,544 designs. Among the principal works we will mention drawings of Fra Bartolomeo, of Andrea del Sarto (Christ mort, 4tendu 'a terre et pleure par sa mere), of Perugino, of Raphael (Adam et Eve devant le Seigneur, La Vierge s'agenouillant, and Une Offrande de PsIychk ia Veus), of Correggio, of Titian (Vieillard endormi, Vieillard priant), of Paul Veronese (Sainte Famile), of Murillo (St. Joseph conduisant 1'Enfant J4 -sus), of Rubens, of Paul Potter, of Nicolas 361 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. Poussin, of Claude Lorrain, and of David (Serment du Jeu de Panume). Next to the M[useum of Drawing3 is a passage from which is entered the Salle des Bronzes, containing upward of a thousand objects, a great many of them representing mythological personages; among the rest are several remarkable busts, namely, of Vespasian, Claude and Titus. The gates closing the entrance to this room are well worth examining. You now ascend a small staircase close by, and come to the two rooms belonging to the Museum of Drawing above mentioned; the drawings exhibited here constitute a choice collection of works by Raphael, Michel Angelo, Poussin, A. Direr, Giulio Romano, and others, so precious that, with a view to their preservation, they are closely shut in cases, the room being in consequence called Salle des Boites. Open Saturdays, from 2 to 4. You next enter the Salle Lesseps, where the Canal d Suez is to be seen; being the first of a series of five rooms, including the spacious hall immediately preceding the Musie de dMarine, which contains the Muse Ethnographique, a collection of curious and interesting objects brought from Africa, China, Japan, India, the South Sea Islands, consisting of weapons, porcelainware, paintings, chests, coins, models of junks, canoes, etc. In one of the rooms is a model of the Pagoda of Juggernaut. The room next to the large hall is the first of a suite of thirteen, occupied by the Muske de Marine. This museum, is devoted to models of vessels in every stage of construction; also models of the cities of Toulon, Brest, l'Orient, and Rochefort. They stand in the centre of the rooms, and are on a very large scale. In one of the rooms stands a model of the frigate "Belle Poule," in which Prince de Joinville brought the remains of Napoleon I. from St. Helena in 1840, a model of the state gallery of Louis XIV., and of the man-of-war "Louis XV." One of the rooms contains a model of the country around Luxor, whence the obelisk was taken that at present adorns the Place de la Concorde; in short, you will find in the museum every thing that relates to navigation and war, arms of all styles and calibres, and instruments of every description. 362 Leaving the 3Musee de Marine, you enter a corridor leading to three rooms called Salles Suppleentaires; the first and third of which contain choice pictures of the Dutch, Flemish, and French schools. We notice in the first, Dog and garme, by Desportes; a landscape, by Joseph Vernet; Persee et Andromede, by Coypel. In the third, Philip de Champagne's beautiful Christ; a sea-piece, by Backhuysen; Flowers, by Mignon; Dogs in a larder, by Snyders. The middle room is devoted to the exhibition of pictures by French painters ten years deceased, lately brought from the Luxembourg Gale7ry: Death of Queen Elizabeth of England, by Paul Delaroche; a landscape, by Rousseau; a scene out of Dante's Inferno, by Eugene Delacroix; Judith and Holophern, by Horace Vernet; Man sitting squat, by Hippolite Flandrin; Cattle, by Troyoaz; Homer's Apotheosis, by Ingres. Now descending the stairway at the end of the MLuse e de arine, and again the staircase Henri II. to the Ground Floor, we find at the foot of it, on our right hand, the entrance to the Museum of Ancient Sculptures, or Galleries of Greek and Roman Sculptures. The first hall is called Salle des Caryatides, from four colossal caryatides by Jean Goujon, who was shot here while at his work during the massacre of St. Bartholomew. Catherine de Medicis, Henry II., Henry III., Charles IX., and Anna of Austria inhabited in turn this suite of apartments, and Henry IV.'s second marriage was celebrated here. At each end of this room are two large marble basins presented to Louis Philippe by the King of Prussia. These offer a curious phenomenon in acousticsnamely, that two persons can hold distinct conversation with each other by bending their heads over them, taking care while doing so to be facing each other. Here is the beautiful Borghese Vase, 235; the Stooping Venus, holding a bow, 148; Discobolus, or quoit-thrower (not numbered); a graceful and much-admired Bacchus, 217; another Stooping Venus, otherwise Diane au Bain, 147; the faultless Ephesus, 183; the Borghese Hermaphrodite, 374. Crossing now a narrow gallery, you come to the Salle du Gladiateur, so called from the marvelous statue standing near its centre. In the first of its compartments is the well-known antique ofheetar n the Centaur and the Genius of PARIS. [FRANCE.] Bacchus, 299; and the celebrated Diane a la Birche, 98. In the second, the Satyr Marsias, about to be flayed alive, 86; the Diane de Gabii, a far-famed masterpiece of Greek art, 97. In the third, the no less celebrated Pallas or Minerva, 114. In the fourth and last, the colossal statue of Melpomlne, at the foot of which are seen some fine mosaics representing Victory, the Nile, the Po, the Danube, and the Dnieper. In the opening leading to the Salle Venus de Milo is the Venus de Falerone, in Parian marble. This statue is without either head or arms, and bears, in point of attitude and drapery, great resemblance to her sister of Milo. You now enter the Salle Venus de Milo, where you meet at once the celebrated statue of that name. In the next compartment is Psyche, a most graceful Greek statue, 371. In the third, a splendid marble sarcophagus adorned with fine bas-reliefs, 438. In the fourth, Eros, a Greek statue of most delicate execution (restored), 325. In the fifth, Hygeia, one of the most beautiful sculptures in the Louvre, 407; Silene in a state of intoxication, 251. In the sixth, the Termini, or keepers of limits. Farther on is the Salle de liaae. In the centre stands a triangular pedestal or altar with bas-reliefs representing the Gods of Oytmpus and other mythological figures; a well-preserved and interesting object. Round the room is a collection of antique fragments of sculpture from various countries. Next comes the Salle des $aisons, including the Rotunda and the next four compartments, all of which were restored in the splendid style at present apparent by Napoleon III. The ceiling of the Rotunda is ornamented with a beautiful fresco of Prometheus with the heavenly fire, and those of the other compartments with various mythological subjects. Here are to be seen some beautiful antiques, among which Apollo Lycian and Bacchus, also well-preserved bas-reliefs, and a gilt bronze statue of Minerva on a porphyry pedestal, which formerly belonged to Cardinal Mazarin. The doors in the third compartment are much admired. The last two rooms are called Salles d s Empereurs, from their containing principally statues of Roman emperors. As you return through the Salle des Saisons you meet on your left at the foot of the Daru stair the Salle des Sarcophages, containing a number of ancient tombs of various descriptions and some good has-reliefs. After retracing your steps to where you first came in. you enter the great court, and turning at once to the left, you find the entrance to the Musee do la Sculpture,loderne. The modern sculpture occupies five rooms: the Salle du Puget, the Salle Coysevox, the Salle des Coustou, the Salle Houdon, and the Salle de Chaudet. Salle du Puget.-This room is thus called because it contains several works of this great artist, who well merits the names given to him of the Rubens of Sculpture and the Michael Angelo of France. Among these works are, Perseus delivering Andromeda, Hercules in repose, Milon de Crotone, Alexander and Diogenes, and Alexander the Great. Salle Coysevox contains the tomb of Cardinal Mazarin; also the busts of Mignard, Lebrun, Bossuet, and Richelieu. Salle des Coustou contains a statue of Louis XV., Apollo presenting the image of Louis XIV. to France, by N. Coustou; the other works by different artists. Salle Houdon. —A statue of Diana in bronze; busts of Jean Jacques Rousseau and of the Abbe Aubert, by Houdon; Cupid and Psyche, by Delaistre, and a Psyche by Pajon. Salle Chaudet contains two works by Chaudet-Cupid with the Butterfly, and the Shepherd Phorbas with the infant CEdipus; one of the sons of Niobe, by Pradier; Biblis metamorphosed into a Fountain, by Dupaty; and Corinne, by Gois. The entrance to the Museum of Sculpture of the Middle Ages is on the left of the outlet in the south wing. This museum comprises eight rooms including the small entrance-hall. The first room on the left is the Salle de la Cheminge de Bruges, deriving its name from the cast of a chimneypiece in some office at Bruges, also casts of the tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter, Marie de Bourgogne, taken from the church of Notre Dame at Bruges. In the entrance-hall is a statue of Childebert, King of France. The second room entered from this hall is the Musee Chretien, containing sarcophagi and bas - reliefs. Next is the Musee Judaique, where are to be seen fragments of sarcophagi and some jewels. In the Salle Michel Colombe are: 84, Combat of St. George with the 363 PARIS; [FRANCE.] PARIS. dragon, a bas-relief, by Michel Colombe; 16, statue in alabaster of Louis XII., by Demnugiano; 85, Philip de Comines; 86, Helene de Chambes-Montsoreau, his wife; 88, Louis de Pomier and his wife, Roberte Legendre. In the Salle Michel-A ngelo are 28, 29, the statues of Prisoners in marble, by Michel A ngelo; 35, Nymph of Fontainebleau, alto-relievo in bronze, by Benvenuto Cellini; 13, an equestrian statue of Roberto Malatesta da Rimini; and 40, a bas-relief of Christ laid in the tomb, by Danielo da Volterra. In the centre of Salle Jean Goujon is a beautiful sculpture in marble, 100, by Jean Goujon of Diana with stag and dogs; 103, Philip de Chabot, Amiral Francais, by Jean Cousin, is a masterpiece; 110, a beautiful bas-relief in marble, called le Reveil, by Fremyn Roussel; 123, Germain Pilon, St. Paul preaching at Athens, a bas-relief in stone; 129,130,131, busts of Henri II., Charles IX., and Henri III., by the same; very fine. In the centre of Salle des Anguiers is the Longueville Pyramid, standing on a pedestal ornamented with bas-reliefs of the military achievements of Duke Henri of Longueville, by Franfois Anguier; 194, a very good marble bust of Colbert, by Michel Anguier. The Gallery of Egyptian Sculpture is entered from the outlet toward the Place du Louvre. It occupies four rooms, including the landing-places of the staircase at the end, containing a great variety of Egyptian antiquities. Among the most worthy of notice are, 21, a Sphinx of Ramses II.; 16, statue in granite of King Sevek-Hotep III., in a splendid state of preservation, although of most remote antiquity; a cast of the Zodiac of Denderah, the original of which is at the BibliothBque Nationale. In the second room, called Salle d'Apis is a figure, 98, of the Bull Apis, found in its own temple in Lower Egypt. The Algerianu Museum, adjoining, recently founded, not yet completed, and, for the present, closed, contains a number of antiquities found in Algeria, among which is a beautiful mosaic representing Neptune and Amphitrite. The entrance to the Assyrian and Asia Minor Galleries is opposite that of the Museum of Egyptian Sculpture. They consist of six rooms, filled chiefly with a collection of sculptures found buried in the immediate neighborhood of Nineveh, and 64 discovered through the exertions of Mr. Botta, French Consul in Syria. The third room, however, called Salle de Pergame, contains the fine vase with sculptured basreliefs discovered at Pergamus in Asia Minor, and the Amathusian vase, thirtythree feet in circumference, from the Island of Cyprus. The rooms in the next wing on the left, contain some beautiful Phoenician tombs. bearing effigies, and a collection of valuable sculptures lately discovered in Asia Minor and presented to the museum by the Barons Rothschild. On the left of Pavillon Marengo is the.MIusee de Gravure ou de Chalcographie, where engravings are produced from pl tes belonging to the Louvre, and sold at very moderate prices. On the same street as the Louvre is situated one of the most convenient places of resort in Paris, viz., the extensive literary establishment of Messrs. Galignani J Co., No. 224 Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Garden of the Tuileries, where is published " Galignani's Messenger," giving full extracts and the leading articles of the English and American papers; also the latest news from the United States, Great Britain, the Continent, and all parts of the world. Under the head of "Stranger's Diary" are found every day the hours of admission to all places worthy of attention in Paris. In addition to a handsome reading-room, where the most importantAmerican, English, and other papers, with the principal magazines, may be read, there is in Messrs. Galignani & Co.'s establishment an excellent circulating library. An address-book of American and English residents and arrivals is kept for the inspection of all visitors. They are agents for Harper's Hand-book and Phrase-book. PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. The Expiatory Chapel stanQs over the spot where Louis XVI. and his unfortunate queen were obscurely interred after their execution in 1793. The place was originally a burial-ground dependent upon the Church of the Madeleine. It was purchased by M. Descloseaux, and converted into an orchard, in order to save the royal remains from the fury of the populace. At the Restoration these remains were transported to Saint Denis and placed in the tombs of the kings. The commemorating chapel was erected by Louis XVIII. It contains statues of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette. The will of the king is inscribed in letters of gold on the pedestal of his statue. In a chapel below, an altar of gray marble marks the spot where Louis XVI. was buried. The building narrowly escaped destruction during the Commune of 1871. HOTEL DE CLUNY, built during the latter portion of the 15th century by the abbots of Cluny, on the site of the ancient Roman Palais des Thermes (or Baths), was inhabited by Mary of England, widow of Louis XII. (the room of this princess still bears the name Chambre de la Reine-Blanche, owing to the custom of the queens of France to wear white mourning), by James V. of Scotland, Duke of Guise, Cardinal of Lorraine, and many others of equal note. It finally came into the possession of M. du Sommerard, a distinguished antiquarian, who formed here a valuable collection of objects of art of the Middle Ages, which was sold by his heir to the government in 1843, and since then it has been formed into a national museum of antiquities. In the great hall on the ground floor some beautiful specimens of Flemish tapestry are exhibited, which illustrate.the history of David and Bathsheba. These relics formerly belonged to the marquises of Spinola, of Genoa. This museum should by all means be visited, as it possesses many objects of considerable interest. The chapel is a chef-d'ceuvre of ornamental sculpture. It is supported in the centre by a single octagonal pillar, covered with tracery. The chapel communicates with the garden of the ancient Palais des Thermes, which was built by Constantius Chlorus toward the end of the 2d century. The only perfect part remaining is a vast hall, formerly thefrigidarium, or chamber for cold baths. Next to this hall is a small room which leads to the tepidarium, or chamber for warm baths. The water necessary for these baths was carried to its destination by an aqueduct, whose remains may still be found in the village d'Arcueil. The hall still remains ing is filled with a great many objects of Roman sculpture, found in Paris at different times; among others, altars erected to Jupiter and discovered in 1711 under the choir of Notre Dame de Paris. Open to the public on Sundays and holidays from 11 to 4; and daily, except Mondays, from 11 to 4.30 to strangers. Catalogue, 2 fr. Private Collections.-Besides the numer. ous museums of painting in Paris which are open to the public, there are many private collections which are well worth a visit, but it is in general difficult to procure admittance. Among the finest of these collections may be mentioned that of Baron James de Rothschild, of Baron Sellibre, and many others of equal value. The Institute was founded in 1795 by the Convention, and includes the Academic Franfaise, the Acadewie des Inscriptions et Belles-lettres, the Academic des Sciences, the A cademie des Beax-arts, and the Academ/ie des Science-Morales. 865 RAIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS. The University (of Paris, founded by Charlemagne, and long one of the most celebrated in Europe, was suppressed at the Revolution, and an entirely new system of education adopted. At the head of this system is placed the University of France, which, properly speaking, is only a board of education, consisting of nine members, presided over by the Minister of Public Instruction as grand master, and having under him twenty-two inspectors general of studies. The most extensive school of Paris is the Academy, consisting of live faculties: Science, with ten ordinary and eight suppleinentary professorships; Letters, with twelve ordinary and seven supplementary; Law, with seventeen ordinary and eight supplementary; Theoohg?, with six ordinary and five supplementary; and Medicine, with twenty-six ordinary. After the Academy come the College de France, with twenty-seven professors; the College attached to the Musee d' Histoire Naturelle, with fifteen; the colleges of Louis le Grand, Bonaparte, St. Louis, and Charlemagne, attended each by about 1000 pupils. The Ecole Polytechique, established in the buildings of the old College de Navarre, a celebrated insti. m61 tution, in which the greatest mathematicians which France has produced have been teachers, and not a few of them have been formed. The Ecole Centrale des Arts et.Iaanujfctures, for the education of engineers, directors of manufactories, builders, etc. The Ecole Normale, for training professors of higher grade, and several Ecoles Normales,Ellnentaires, for ordinary male and female teachers. Ecole des Ponts et Chaussees, consisting of about 100 pupils, taken from the Ecole Polytechnique to be instructed in all the branches of civil engineering. Ecole des Mines, kept in the magnificent Hotel de Vendome, with a full complement of professors in every branch relating to mining operations, and a most valuable mineral museum, which fills fifteen rooms, and contains the geological collection of the Paris Museum, formed by Cuvier and Brongniart. -Ecole des Chartes, a school for studying and deciphering ancient MSS. Ecole des Langues Orientales Vivantes, with seven professors. Ecole de Pharmacie, with ten professors and the sole power of licensing apothecaries, who can not practice until examined here. Ecole gratuite de Dessin, de Me, atkilatique, et de Sculpture d'Ornament, a kind of mechanic institute. Ecole specialegratuite de Dessin pour les Jeunes Personnes, in which young women, intended for the arts or similar professions, have the means of studying figures, landscapes, flowers, etc. Palais et Ecole des Beaux Arts, in which gratuitous lectures on all subjects connected with the arts are given by twenty-one professors. E-cole VetIrinaire, a celebrated establishment, not in Paris, but at Alfort, in its vicinity. Conservatoire de tMusique et de Declamation, for the instruction of both sexes in music, singinr, and declnmation, by a numerous body of first-class professors, male and female, and numerous primary schools, superior, and infant schools. The Sorbemne. —This institution was foundedin 1253 by Robert de Sorbon as a school of theology. The present building was begun by Cardinal Richelieu, and has been enlarged at different times. It is the seat of three of the faculties of the Academy of Paris, Theology, Letters, and Sciences. In the chapel is the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu. Palais and Ecole des Beaux Arts.-This beautiful building was commenced in 1820,' PARIS. -[FRANCE.:] under Louis XVIII., but not completed until the year 1839. It is 240 feet long by 60 feet high. The apartments comprising the first floor are beautifully decorated. The school is divided into two sections; one of architecture, the other of painting and sculpture. Prizes are annually distributed to the pupils; those who receive grand prizes are sent to Rome for three years at the expense of the government. An exhibition of the works of the pupils, as well as of those sent by the students from Rome, takes place every year in September. The walls are adorned with some very fine paintings that have taken the prize at the exhibitions. This institution is well worth a visit from the traveler. Admittance may be obtained by an application to the porter from 10 to 4; a fee of about one franc is expected. Bibliotheque Nationale.-Length 540 feet, breadth 130, is situated on Rue Richelieu, and presents a lately erected elegant structure. It may be said that Louis XIV. was the founder of this library; it was under his reign, at least, that it was first thrown open to the public. Louis XIII. left some 18,000 volumes; at the death of Louis XIV. it contained 70,000 volumes. It now contains 1,400,000 volumes, 300,000 pamphlets, 125,000 manuscripts, 300,000 maps and charts, and 150,000 coins and medals. The collection of engravings amounts to the enormous number of 1,300,000. They are contained in some 10,000 volumes. The portraits amount to nearly 100,000. The manuscripts most worthy of mention are, Fenelon's T6lemaque in his own handwriting; a manuscript of Josephus. Here you find also the prayer-book of St. Louis, and one that bears the signatures of Charles V., Charles IX., and Henry III., which belonged to them in succession. Autograph letters of Lord Byrony Franklin, Rousseau, Madame de Maintenon, Corneille, Racine, Moliere,Mdlle.de laValliere; letters from Henry IV. to Gabrielle d'Estr6es, the arm-chair of King Dagobert, the armor of Francis I., the shield of Hannibal. In the reading-room the traveler will meet with crowds of the studious of all classes. No conversation is permitted, and visitors are obliged to provide their own pens and paper. Books may be taken from the library by application to your embassador. In a room adjoining the read. ing-room will be found the two globes presented to Louis XIV. by Cardinal d'Estrees; they are made of copper, and are nearly 36 feet in circumference. Amid the numerous curiosities of the library we perceive a beautiful vase made from the single tooth of an elephant and enriched with precious stones. Visitors are admitted on Tuesdays and Fridays, and students every day except Sundays and holidays. Jardin des Plantes, Quai St. Bernard, op. posite Pont d'Austerlitz.-At the earnest solicitation of Guy de la Brosse, physician to Louis XIII., the king was induced to found this magnificent establishment. In 1635 De la Brosse was appointed superintendent. It was originally intended only for a botanical garden, but the different superintendents added successively different branches of natural history. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was appointed in 1739. He founded the museum, greenhouses, and hot-houses, to give the proper temperature suitable to each plant. Ho collected from all countries the most varied productions of nature. Other superintendents have added the Zoological, the Menagerie of Living Animals, the Library of Natural History, the Amphitheatres and Laboratories, where public lectures on every branch of science connected with natural history are given, from the months of April to September, by seventeen professors. The garden is under the control of the Minister of the Interior. Between two of the avenues are inclosures which form the Botanical Garden and School of Botany. - Here you may see at a glance the nature of the different plants by the colo! 8(7 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. of the tickets attached.'- The black indi- and monsters. Here you may perceive cates poisonous plants; the red, medicinal; the difference between the full-breasted the green, alimentary; the yellow, orna- Englishman and the narrow-breasted Italmental; and the blue, those used in the ian; the retreating forehead of the New arts. There are 1200 different specimens Zealander and the tapering chest and of botanical plants cultivated in this gar- sunken temples of the Egyptian. The den, and over 10,000 bags of seed distrib- twelfth room is filled with the skulls and uted to professors for the purpose of propa- casts of notorious characters, collected by gation. The conservatories are well worth the celebrated Dr. Gall. You are particvisiting. To obtain permission, apply to ularly struck with the majestic, high, and M. de Caisne at the establishment. ample forehead of Bacon; the small but We visit next the Mfenagerie, one of the regular head of Voltaire, low in the foremost extensive in the world, established head, but full in the region of the ears; here in 1794. It is divided into numerous Rousseau, with a benevolent, placid, but compartments inclosed with iron railings. sorrowful expression. The Cabinet of AnHere you perceive a spacious poultry-yard, thropology, the Gallery of Zoology, the in which are all kinds of geese and swans, Mineralogical and Geological Museum, not to speak of buffaloes; a menagerie of which exceed over 60,000 specimens. The reptiles, containing crocodiles, alligators, library and botanical gardens, do they not lizards, boas; a menagerie of beasts of contain millions of specimens, and are prey: here you have Bengal tigers, lions, there not catalogues publishedof thewhole? bears, panthers, and hyenas; a very ex- They are all open on Sundays, Tuesdays, tensive family of monkeys, a large circu- and Thursdays from 1 to 5, and on Saturlar space provided with galleries, ropes, day (with passport) from 11 to 2. and ladders affording them every conven- Conservatoire des Arts et Mitiers.-This ience for their comical evolutions, much building is a part of the former monastery to the amusement of the crowd. Near by of St. Martin des Champs, founded by you will perceive the young elephant sent Henry I. in 1060, and which remained from Soudan by Prince Halim Pacha. To for a long time one of the largest and witness the feeding of the animals, apply wealthiest of the Order of St. Benedict in to M. le Directeur du Jardin des Plantes. France. In the thirteenth century it was The Museum of Natural History is con- surrounded by a wall and 21 towers, one tained in a large range of buildings three of which still exists; but in 1789 the monstories high. It is considered as standing astery was dissolved and the fortifications at the head of all institutions of this kind leveled. The Conservatoire des Arts et in Europe. A detailed account of this vast Metiers was established here in 1798 at collection of specimens, in which almost the suggestion of M. Gregoire, bishop of every class of living beings has its repre- Blois, and the repositories of machines at sentative preserved, would fill volumes, the Louvre, the Hotel de Mortagne, and andrequire weeks to inspect in detail. The the Rue de l'Universite were transported visitor's attention will at once be arrested, here. A gratuitous school of arts was esin entering the first series of rooms, by the tablished here in 1810, which has been statue of Nature. It is a beautiful female since reorganized, and has received several figure of white marble; her right hand additions. It is under the management of hangs by her side, her left is raised to her a council, with a director (General Morin) breast, as if pressing the nourishment of at its head, and has a regular staff of proher children from its exuberant fountain. fessors. The entrance is in the Rue St. The Museum of Comparative Anatomy is Martin. The archway is profusely sculp-\ considered the richest in the world. The tured, and the entablature is supported by admirable arrangement of this vast collec- two caryatides representing Art and Scition is due to the labors of Baron Cuvier; ence. On the frieze are the words AgriIt consists:Df twelve rooms. The most in- culture, Commerce, Industrie. teresting is that devoted to human Skele- On entering the building we have on the tons. Here are skeletons- of the human right and left agricultural products, grain, species from almost every nation and tribe seeds, models of fruits, etc., from all quarunder heaven, including mummies, dwarfs, -ters of the globe. We next enter a vesti1 368 PARIS. [FRANCE.J PARIS. bule called the Salle de PEcho, so constructed that a whisper may be heard from one end to the other. In this room is the model of the apparatus used in transporting the obelisk of Luxor. The hall to the left on entering contains a collection of the weights and measures of all the countries in the world. In the Salle des Filatures are looms and spinning machines of every description. The Chapel is now filled with hydraulic machines, and is called the Depot des Modeles. A shaft worked by steam runs through it, and communicates motion to the different machines. In the nave is a large tank which supplies water necessary for the mills. A staircase leads to the upper story and to a gallery, in which are models of steam-engines, machinery for refining sugar, paper-making, wood-cutting, etc. In this room also is a specimen of the sheet-iron used in the construction of theGreat Eastern. On our way down the gallery we find, on the left, a small room devoted to astronomical instruments. At the end of the gallery are six rooms, the first containing ornamental tiles, the next four contain specimens of glass bells and cylinders, pumps, lithographic presses, and one the celebrated Machine de Marly, that raised water for the fountains at Versailles. Two are devoted to optics and acoustics. There are several rooms running parallel to the main gallery, filled with instruments of natural philosophy. Another room is devoted to watch-making, and the apparatus and tools used in its manufacture. Descending the staircase to the vestibule, we enter on the left the library (Bibliotheque), formerly the refectory of the convent. There are about 20,000 volumes in the library, on subjects connected with the arts and sciences. This room is a beautiful specimen of the Gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. In one end is the pulpit, from which prayers were read during the monastic meals, and the staircase in the wall leading to it. There are several paintings representing the arts and sciences; also one of St. Martin. The Conservatoire des Arts et M6tiers is open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, from 10 to 4, gratuitously, and all other days, at the same hours, for the price of one franc. The lectures are all gratuitous. L'Assistance Publique. — L'Administration ygnrale de l'Assistance Pubique was charged, by a decree in 1849, with every thing relating to public charity. It is managed by a director and Conseil de Surveillance of 20 members. Among the principal hospitals are the Hotel Dieu(Place du Parvis Notre Dame), founded inr 660 by Saint Landry, bishop of Paris, and enlarged by Philip Augustus. It was endowed by St. Louis, Henry IV., Louis XIV., and Louis XV. successively. It contains 828 beds, and receives the sick and wounded, except persons incurable, or afflicted with skin diseases. The old building will soon be pulled down, the spacious new H6telDieu being very nearlycompleted. La Charite (Rue Jacob, 47), founded in 1602 by Maria de Medicis, and considerably enlarged in 1864; 474 beds. La Pitie, built in 1612 by order of Louis XIII.; 620 beds. Among the hospitals for the treatment of special diseases are: Saint Louis (Rue Bichat, 40 and 42), founded in 1604, by Henry IV., for the treatment of cutaneous diseases; 882 beds. Hopital du Midi (Rue des Capucins Saint Jacques, 15), established in 1785, in the ancient convent of the Capucins. Consecrated to the treatment of secret maladies (for men only); 336 beds. H4pital de Lourcine (Rue de Lourcine, 111) occupies a part of the ancient convent of the Cordeliers, founded in 1284 by Marguerite de Provence. It is devoted to the treatment of women afflicted with secret diseases; 276 beds. Hipital des Infants Malades (Rue de SBvres, 149) receives sick children of both sexes. It was founded in 1735 by Laurent de Gergy, curate of Saint Sulpice, and contains 698 beds. Among the alms-houses are: Hospice des Incurables (honmmes) (Rue Popincourt, 66), founded in 1683 by Saint Vincent de Paul, and receives the poor at the age of 70,'or those who, younger, are unable to work; 456 beds. Hospice des Incurables (femmes) (Rue de Shvres, 42) receives poor women at the age of 70, or those still younger who are unable to work; 690 beds. Hospice des Enfants Assistgs (Rue d'Enfer, 100) was founded by Saint Vincent de Paul. Foundlings are received here under the age of 12, and maintained until 21 years of age, if they are not reclaimed. 369 PARIS, [FRANCE.] PARIS Institution Sainte Perine (4 Place Sainte Genevieveat Auteuil) was founded in 1806 by M. Duchaila, for persons over 60 years of age of small income. An annual payment is required of 700 francs. Hospice Devillas (Rue de Regard), founded by M. Devillas in 1832, receives aged persons inflicted with incurable diseases. Hospice des Quinze-Vingts (28 Rue de Charenton) receives 300 blind persons at the age of 40, and for whom the means of subsistence are wanting. The husbands and wives of the blind are also admitted, together with their children. Institution des Jeunes Aveugles (Boulevard des Invalides, 56), founded in 1784 by Valentine Hauy, and occupying, since 1843, a beautiful edifice, constructed by M. Philippon. This school receives 250 scholars of both sexes, whose studies continue during eight years. Institution des Sourds Mfuets (Rue Saint Jacques)receives only children of'the male sex, whose studies continue during eight years. Price, i000 francs. Orphelinat du Prince Imperial has for its object the relief of poor orphans, by giving them a suitable education and binding them apprentices to some trade. The sum paid for the board and lodging of an orphan is about 200 francs. Sociite du Prince Impfrialpour les Prsts de l'Enfance au Travail.-This society was founded by the Empress in 1862, for the purpose of advancing money to artisans and laborers, to enable them to buy tools, materials, etc., when in want of funds. MAont de Pite. - This institution was founded in 1777 for the benefit of the hospitals and other charitable institutions, and enjoys the privilege of lending upon movables four fifths of the value of gold and silver articles, and two thirds of all other effects. The interest upon pledges is 92 per cent., and the interest must be paid entire, though the loan last-but for a few days. The engagement is made for a year, but the borrower is free to anticipate his payments. The engagement can not be made fora sum exceeding 15 francs without the presentation of a passport and the identification of the borrower. A caisse d'& comnpes enables borrowers to refund the sums advanced by instalments; 1 franc is receied. After 14 months, if the duplicate be not renewed, the effects are sold, m 0 and the surplus given to the owner, if applied for within three years, after which time it is given to the Administration de l'Assistance Publique. The general diree tion and the central bureau of the Mont de Pi6te are at No. 7 Rue de Paradis, and No. 18 Rue des Blancs Manteaux. There are also two branches; one No. 16 Rue Bonaparte, the other Rue des Amandiers Popincourt. ELtablissements et ceuvres en faveur de I'enfance.-There are several creches open during the day, where children of poor persons are taken care of while their parents are at work. The principal creches are at 148 Rue Saint Lazare, 182 Faubourg St. Honor6, 247 Rue Saint Honor6, 74 Rue Popincourt, besides numerous others in different parts of Paris. Mlaison Eugene Napoleon (254 Rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine) was founded in 1853 by the Empress Eugenie. 300 poor young girls are boarded and educated here, under the care of the Sisters of Saint Vincent de Paul. L'Asile des Petits Orphelins (Chaussee de Menilmontant) receives orphans of both sexes from 2 to 7 years of age. L'aEuvre de Notre Dame des Sept Douleurs (Faubourg Saint Honor6) receives sick children, whose age prevents their entrance into the hospitals. L' (Euvre des Petits Ramoneurs was founded in 1736. It is open every evening for the civil and religious instruction of chimney-sweepers. MILITARY ESTABLISHMENTS. It4tel des Invalides.-This vast and splendid establishment was founded by Louis XIV. in 1670. Its object is to maintain at the expense of the nation the worn-out soldiers of France, giving them the comforts of a home in their declining days. The hotel is 612 feet front, four stories high, and lighted by 133 windows. It presents three pavilions: the one in the centre has a high door, over the arch of which is a bas-relief of the founder of the hotel on horseback. The entrance leads to a magnificent court-yard 315 feet long by 192 broad. It is surrounded by four piles of buildings, with central projections and elegant pavilions at the angles. The first desire of visitors is generally to see the refectories and kitchens. The refectories are; PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIs. four in number, 150 feet long by 24 wide; three are appropriated to sub-officers and privates, and one to officers. They each contain thirty tables, capable of seating twelve persons each; they are mostly decorated with frescoes, representing towns conquered by Louis XIV. There are two kitchens adjoining —one for the officers, and one for the privates; 3000 pounds of neat are cooked here daily. There is a spit capable of roasting 400 pounds at a time; 1500 pounds of meat are generally boiled, and 1500 made into ragouts. The dormitories on the first and second stories are extensive, and admirably ventilated. The visitor should not fail, if here between the 1st of May and 15th of June, to obtain tickets to visit the Galerie des plans et des oirtresses de France. Here may Ie seen models over 200 feet square of niany of the principal fortified cities of France; the battle of Lodi and siege of Rome, executed in wood and plaster with great nicety. There is a fine library attached to the hotel, founded by Napoleon I., containing over 30,000 volumes, open from 9 to 3 except on Sundays. It contains a fine picture of Napoleon I. crossing Mount Saint Bernard, also one of Napoleon III.; and the cannon ball by which Marshal Turenne was killed. West of the library is the Council Chamber, in which, and the adjoining Salle d'Attente, are numerous portraits of different marshals of France and governors of the hotel. The portrait of Prince Jerome while King of Westphalia was presented to the lIotel des Invalides byCount d'Orsay. You now pass through a corridor (on some occasions you are obliged to go round on the outside of the hotel) to the church, which contains all the banners tlaken by the French in their wars with other nations arranged along on l:oth sides of the nave. The church is 210 feet long by 66 high. On the piers of the arches, which are faced by Corinthian pilasters, are the names of different governors of the hotel, who are alone allowed to be buried in the nave, and have monuments erected in the church. The remains of Napoleon were temporarily placed here after being brought from Saint Helena. We now pass into the dome of the church, which is one of the first edifices which attracts the attention of the traveler. Its height to the top of the cross is 823 feet. The interior is circular, with VOL. I.-R branccs forming the nave and transept. The dome is lightly supported by eight arches, between which we perceive the beautifully painted ceiling. The tombs of Turenne and Vauban are placed opposite each other; both groups are admirably executed. A winding staircase on each side of the high altar leads to the crypt containing the Tomb of Napoleon I. Over the entrance we find a quotation from the Emperor's will: "I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom I have everloved." The pavement of the crypt is beautifully decorated with a crown of laurels in mosaic. On the balustrade surrounding the tomb are the names of Napoleon's principal victories, represented by twelve colossal statues ly Pradier. The tomb is an immense monolith of porphyry, weighing 135,000 pounds; it was polished by a powerful steaml-engine. The sarcophagus is a single block, 12 feet long and 6 broad, resting on a pedestal of green granite. In the recess adjoining the crypt stands the statue of the Emperor, dressed in his imperial robes. Here, also, is the crown of gold voted by the town of Cherbourg; the insignia he wore on state occasions, and the sword that he wore at the battle of Austerlitz. The whole expense of the tomb was nearly $2,000.000. The hotel is under the direction of the Mlinister of War. The senior marshal of France is generally appointed governor, who receives a salary of $8000; a general of division commandant, salary $3(00; and a colonel-major, with eight captains, and an adjutant, complete the command. Each man is allowed a quarter of a pound of meat, half a pound of bread, and a litre of wine. The Hotel des Invalides is open daily from 10 to 4 o'clock; the church to the public on Thursdays,andtothe stranger, with passport, on Mondays. The Museum of Artillery on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, from 10 to 3. Some of the Invalides are always ready to conduct you: a fee of a franc is expected for a party. At the southern side of the Champ de Mars stands the Ecole Militaire, created by Louis XV. for the education of young gentlemen whose parents were in reduced circumstances, or who had lost their fathers on the field of battle. A certain number were likewise admitted at the rate of $400:T71 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. per annum. The front toward the Champ de Mars is decorated with ten Corinthian columns, supporting an attic adorned with bas-reliefs, which is surmounted by a quadrangular dome. The principal entrance opens into the courts, which are surrounded now with barracks. The Military School was suppressed in 1788, since which time it has been occupied as barracks for infantry, cavalry, and artillery, and comfortably accommodates over 6000 men. For permission to visit the barracks, apply to the commandant of the first military division. MILITARY HOSPITALS. The Val de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, includes the Hfpital Mlilitaire, with 854 beds for soldiers and officers, surrounded by beautiful walks and gardens; the Ecole de lMidecine et de Pharmacie 3Militaire; and the Buanderie Centrale des H4pitaux Militaires. L'hApital du Gros Caillon (188 Rue St. Dominique) contains 630 beds for the sick. L'Ihpital Saint Martin (Rue du Faubourg Saint Martin) possesses 425 beds. L'hApital de Vincennes, constructed in 1856, contains 630 beds. L'A rsenal, in the place of the same name, was enlarged by Francis I. and Henry II., and rebuilt by Charles IX. It includes the Direction d'Artillerie de Paris and the Capsulerie. THE MARKETS. The Halles Centrales were begun in 1851, from tie designs and under the direction of M. Victor Baltard. They are not yet completed, but will be composed of twelve pavilions, six on each side of a boulevard now in construction. These markets were constructed to replace the old Marche des Innocens, which consisted of a mere set of huts, forming, however, for a long time, the central market of Paris.,The pavilions are large, handsome sheds, under one immense roof of iron framing and glass covering. The whole costof these buildings at their completion is estimated at 61,000,000 francs. Ifalle au Ble is a vast market where all sorts of grain and flour are sold. It was built in 1'.67, and is a large circular building 126 feet in diameter, with an arcade of 25 arches passing around the inner area. The interior is a large rotunda surrounded 372 by a gallery, where the granaries may be seen. South of the building is a Doric column, erected in 1572 for Catharine de Medicis. It was intended for astrological purposes. Halle aur Vins, Quai St. Bernard, near the Jardin des Plantes.-The wine-market of Paris has been established over 200 years. Napoleon I. ordered the construction of the present mammoth establishment. It occupies over 100 English acres, consisting of five streets, called after the different wine countries, viz., Rue de Bourgogne, Rue de Champagne, Rue de Bordeaux, Rue de Languedoc, and Rue de la Cote d'Or. There are 444 cellars and warehouses, capable of holding 450,000 casks of wine, 100,000 of brandy, and 400 of olive oil. The average number of casks that go and come daily is over 1500. Owners are not obliged to pay octroi duty while their wine remains in this bonded warehouse. Inferior wines and brandies may be found at the wharf opposite. The hall is open from sunrise until sunset. Marche aux Fleurs.-There are four flower-markets; the Marche du quai Napoleon et du quai aux Fleurs, held Wednesdays and Saturdays; the Marche de la Mad. eleine, near the church of the same name, held on Tuesdays and Fridays; the Marchg de l'Esplanade du Chateau d'Eau, opposite the barracks of the Prince Eugene, held on Mondays and Thursdays; and the Marchg Saint Sulpice, on the place of the same name (Mondays and Thursdays). Tattersall Franfais (22 Rue Beaujon). Public sale every Thursday of horses, carriages, and harnesses. The slaughter-houses of Paris are at la Villette, where all the animals brought in the market of the same name are slain. Artesian Well of Grenelle was commenced in 1834 by M. Mulot, engineer, and finished in 1841. This well was bored to the immense depth of 1800 feet. It raises its water over 100 feet above the surface of the earth, and is capable of yielding over 380,000 gallons per day. Artesian Well of Passy yields about 3,000,000 gallons per day, and supplies the lakes in the Bois de Boulogne. It was PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. begun in 1855, and was bored to the depth Tombeau de la Revolution; the former the of 1900 feet. Water was found in 1861. remains of those who perished in the frightCanal de l'Ourcq was begun under the ful massacre of the 2d and 3d of SepternFirst Consul and finished in 1837. It com- her; the latter those who perished in the mences at Marenil, about ten leagues from Revolution of 1789. There is a kind of Paris, and falls into the Bassin de la Vil- disagreeable smell prevalent, and altogeth, lette. Its length is 24 leagues. The canals er the effect of the place is very oppressive, Saint Martin and Saint Denis connect it especially to persons of sensitive feelings. with the Seine. The principal entrance is at the Barriere Sewers.-The system of sewerage has d'Enfer; the staircase leading down to been very much perfected in Paris during the Catacombs is composed of 90 steps. the last ten years. There are six main There are some sixty different entrances galleries or collectors, with 15 secondary at various points, but this is the one genones opening into them, which have also erally entered by strangers. many smaller ones that cross the city in The Cemeteries of Paris.-In 1790 a law every direction. Three of these galleries was passed prohibiting the burying of the are on the left and three on the right bank dead within churches; the enactment is of the Seine. These collectors are united principally attributable to Voltaire, who by a siphon under the bed of the Seine, wrote and protested strongly against the near the Pont de la Concorde. Two sub- habit as most pernicious. The cemeteries terranean canals, parallel with the banks of Paris are three in number: Pere la of the Seine, carry the sewage to a distance Chaise, Mont Parnassus, and Montmartre; of seven miles below the city. in addition to which, there is one appropriThe Catacombs of Paris are very inter- ated to the use of hospitals and criminals. esting. Travelers are allowed to visit them Pere la Chaise is named after a monk, who every three months. They were origi- was confessor to Louis XIV., and resided nally immense quarries for procuring stone on the spot. This was formerly the strongfor building purposes, and increased to hold of Jesuitism, being their country ressuch an extent that one tenth of the pres- idence for over 150 years. It is the largest ent area of Paris is entirely undermined. burial-ground of the capital, and is beautiSeveral houses having sunk in the fan- fully situated in an undulating ground, bourgs St. Jacques and St. Germain, the surrounded by valleys. From the highest attention of the government was aroused, point a magnificent view of the city and and the idea was conceived by M. Lenoir, its environs is obtained. This immense Superintendent of Police, of converting cemetery contains now over 20,000 tombs; these immense caverns into catacombs; many of them are great specimens of archthe ceremony of consecrating them was itecture; the most interesting is that of performed on the 7th of April, 1786, and Abelard and Heloise, which stands on the all the bones of the dead were collected first path to the right of the avenue. The from the various churches and cemeteries principal monuments are that of La Fonof Paris, where they had been accumula- taine, Molibre, Princess Demidoff, General ting for centuries, and deposited in these Foy, Kellermann, Visconti, Arago, the asvaults; the bones were brought in funereal tronomer, Mademoiselle Duchesnois, the cars, followed by priests chanting the serv- actress, Count Lavalette, Count de Rigny, ice of the dead. It is calculated that these General St. Cvr, Viscount de Martignac, vast caverns contain the remains of over Marshal Massena, Prince d'Essling. There 3,000,000 of human beings. The bones of is a pretty lot laid out as a garden, surthe legs and arms are laid closely in order, rounded by an iron railing, but containing with their ends outward, and at regular no monument: in it lie the remains of intervals skulls are interspersed in ranges, Marshal Ney; E-eaqmarchais, the dramaso as to present alternate rows of back and tist; Beranger, the poet; Manuel, the orafront parts of the heads. Occasionally we tor; La Place, the astronomer; Marquis perceive apartments arranged like chap- de Clermont-Gallerande. Ascending the els, with skulls, arms, and legs. They hill, we see some very beautiful monucontain numerous inscriptions: among ments, among which are those of Sydney others are the Tombeau des Victimes, the Smith, Volney, and others well known to 373 PARIs. [FRANCE.] PArIS. fame; returning, we see the superb monument of MI. Aguado, the rich financier; that of Madame de Diaz Santos; De Balzac, the novelist; Crozatier, the founder, who cast the statue of Napoleon which stands on the column in Vendome; De Sbze, who defended Louis XVI. on his trial. In the cemetery is an inclosure devoted to the burial of Mohammedans: in it are interred the Prince of Oude and his mother. There is another devoted to the Jews: it contains the tomb of Rachel, the celebrated actress. East of the chapel is almost entirely devoted to eminent theatrical, musicai, and poetical characters, such as Talma, Bellini, Rubini, etc. Taking this cemetery all together, it is one of the most beautiful and interesting spots in the world; here we see names which have shaken the whole world, and which the world will never forget. In summer it is a favorite place of resort both for strangers and Parisians: an omnibus leaves the Place du Palais Royal, in front of the Hotel du Louvre, every quarter of an hour. Cemetery Montmartre.-This was the first cemetery established in Paris: it is situated near the Butte Montmartre. It contains some very handsome monuments, among which are the chapel of the Countess Potocka, the obelisk erected to the memory of the Duchess of Montmorency, the tomb of Prince Ernest of Saxe-Cobourg, Nourrit of the Grand Opera, and Mdlle. Jenny Colon, the actress. There is a handsome Jewish cemetery separated from the other by a wall A visit should be made to the studio of the celebrated historical painter Armand Dumaresq, who has become so popular in America by his famous paintings of the "Declaration of Independence," the "Surrender of Yorktown," "Battle of Saratoga," etc. Mr. Dumaresq is also noted for his excellent portraits. Among the most celebrated are those of Mr. Evarts, Secretary of State; Mr. Caleb Cushing, Minister to Spain; Marshal MacMahon, President of the French Republic; Marshal Vaillant; Mr. George Borger, etc., etc. Mr. Dumaresq, whose studio is No. 3 Rue d'Offement, is a most agreeable and amiable man; he has been decorated with the Legion of Honor, and speaks English fluently. The most fashionable magasin de nou374 veautes in Paris is, undoubtedly, the Petit St. Thomas, for nearly a century now patronized by the nobility and gentry of all countries as the most reputable house of its kind in the French capital. The Petit St. Thomas is situated in the Rue de Bac, live minutes' walk from the Tuileries, within convenient distance from the leading hotels, and is the favorite resort of ladies bent on all kinds of purchases, all goods being obtainable here at moderate and fixed prices, and, at the same time, of the very best quality and make. The costumes and confections for ladies and children were rewarded at the Crystal Palace, in 1877, with the prize of the only gold medal, and at the Paris Universal Exposition of 1878 the silver medal was conferred upon this house. Ladies can here find nearly every thing they require, thus avoiding the inconvenience of having to travel from store to store. The numerous departments comprised in this vast establishment embrace almost every article contributing to a lady's toilet, of guaranteed excellence and quality. The dress, mantle, and skirt sections have worthily acquired a name for taste, style, and finish which entitles them to particular notice. By a strict application of the motto " Small profits, fixed prices, and plain figures,' the house enjoys a reputation for cheapness and elegance possessed by few houses in the world in the sale of silks, furs, laces, India shawls, cloaks, costumes, skirts, dress stuffs, bridal attire, household linen, ladies' outfits, etc. Catalogues, samples, and dress plates are sent free, on application, to any part of the world. English assistants are in constant attendance. As nearly every lady traveler who visits Paris expends a large sum in laces and India shawls, either for herself or friends, it is a duty we owe them to make them acquainted with the most responsible establishments in that trade. The reputation of the Compagnie des Indes is such that numerous houses have been established in their vicinity with nearly corresponding names, similar to the John Maria Farina at Cologne. Travelers should keep a wary eye on commissioners and valet-de-places. This is probably the only house in Paris which pays no commissions to any one. The Compagnie des Indes manufactures its own laces from its own designs, and PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. keep two French agents permanently in India, one at Kachmyr, the other at Umritzur. This situation assures them the direct provision and the first of all the new styles, makes them ready to profit by all favorable variations in the market and by advantageous occasions, and gives them also the choice of the best patterns, which they obtain exclusively. We may well say that nearly all the purchase of India shawls, whether at wholesale or retail, is now concentrated in this house, on account of the variety of assortments and prices, and also of the perfection with which the shawls are finished. These Cachemires are made in pieces in India, with the seams badly joined, incomplete designs, are badly put together, creased and puckered in the tissue, etc. The Compagnie des Indes has made it a specialty, a particular art, to correct these faults, and to give to the Indian Cachemire all the perfection which an industry of such high taste requires. The Compagnie des Indes possesses, also, four manufactories of laces: at Alen9on, at Caen, at Bayeux, and at Brussels. In this last city, the great centre of all the fabrication of laces in Belgium, where for the last fifteen years the Compagnie des Indes has possessed an extensive manufactory, a new house of sale has lately been established by Messrs. Verd6 Delisle & Cie., directors of this establishment, in the finest part of the city, No. 1. Rue de la Regence, opposite the palace of the Duke of Brabant. The jury of the Paris Exposition of 1867 gave the golden medal and the Cross of the Legion of Honor to the chief of this house, with this mention in the Moniteur: "Exceptional superiority in the fabrication oflaces." It is known that to obtain these rare distinctions great fineness and great finish in the work do not suffice, for these can be reached by any fabricator, and is merely a matter of money; what the jury particularly rewards is the superiority of design, the artistical perfection of the work, the invention, the progress. One of the great advantages of this house, and what chiefly recommends it to us, is the perfect security for the purchaser, the prices being really fixed and marked in characters that are known. At 22 Rue de la Paix, the house of tenry Capt has opened a branch of its Geneva establishment, where Swiss watches, the best and cheapest manufactured, may be bought at Geneva prices, with all other articles of fashionable jewelry. This establishment has a world-wide fame. Its branch in New York is at 23 Union Square. Families or gentlemen giving soirees, receptions, or dinner-parties will find the I Maison du Friand, IPotel 4 Chabot, 28 Rue Vivienne, and 25 Boulevard des Italiens, the best in Paris. It has for many years sustained the first reputation. Every edible in season may be obtained here, and at most reasonable prices. Belvallette Brothers, 24 Avenue des Champs Elysees, are among the first manufacturers of carriages in Paris. This house received first-class medals at the Universal Expositions of 1851, 1855, and 1862, and the Cross of the Legion of Honor and first gold medal in 1867. One of the first journals of Paris, in its visit to the Exposition Maritime et Fluviale, speaking of this house, says: ' We must first cite MM. Belvallette freres, who are classed the first among the best carriage manufacturers of the capital. Their reputation is already made, and their luxurious carriages, so much appreciated by true connoisseurs, possess a real elegance and distinction which justifies the success they have obtained at home and abroad." This house hadon exhibition several carriages, one of which was a magnificent mail-coach: its elegance of design was only equaled by its perfect finish. Another was a charming landaulet; an elegant coupe, which could be transformed into a beautiful Victoria with surprising facility. Another landaulet with four places, for one horse, attracted much attention. We wish to give special advice to travelers who purpose going into apartments in Paris for a few months or more. Never, under any consideration, hire your linen. The rent for a few months will buy any thing you want. There is an immense establishment in Paris, Grande AMaison de Blanc, 6 Boulevard des Capucines, where all articles used by housekeepers in the linen line are sold for about half the ordinary prices, for the simple reason that this house has its own manufactory in nearly every department of goods; for instance, at Tarare (Rhone) it has a manufactory of lace window-curtains, in which 800 persons 375 PARIS. [FRANCE.] PARIS. are employed; at Paris, a factory of sheet- whose extensive establishment is situated ing; and of table and toilet linen, hand- at No. 29 Boulevard des Italiens. Mr. kerchiefs, etc., while its assortment of Preterre is a laureate of the Faculty of trousseaux, its layettes, and every article I Medicine of Paris; and among the numerrelating to young children's wear, white ous awards granted him can be mentioned robes, etc., are immense. the only gold medals of the Universal ExAmericans visiting Paris will profit by hibitions of 1867 and 1878 at Paris; he has making their purchases from and through Ibranch establishments at Nice, Cannes, and Messrs. C. H. A. Carter & Co., American Mentone. His hours of consultation are merchants and commission agents, 5 Rue from 11 to 3. Aluter. This house deals largely in Bon- The most fashionable establishment for net's, Ponson's, Tapissier's, and Million's hats is the Maison Anglaise, No. 1 Place black silks, Lyons velvets, India and lace de l'Op6ra, nearly in front of the Grand shawls, laces of every description, robes, Hotel, the New Opera House, and Washcostumes, cloaks, dressmaking in all its ington Club. The house is furnisher to branches, millinery, gloves, furs, and fan- the latter. In addition to their own hats, cy goods-in fact, every article required they are agents for the principal London for a lady's or gentleman's wardrobe, houses, including the celebrated ladies' They also purchase, for a small commis- hats manufactured by Mrs. Brown. sion, direct from the manufacturers and For every kind of medicine we recomwholesale dealers, every kind of goods for mend travelers to Swann, 12 Rue Castigsale in Paris; and such is the universal lione, an English chemist, who has had the confidence expressed in their integrity and patronage of the United States embassadors fair dealing, that we cheerfully recommend and principal American families in Paris this firm to the patronage of all Americans for upward of twenty years. who desire to be well and faithfully served. Couriers.-It is very difficult to find a American travelers will find the house good, honest, and competent courier. From of L'Herbette, Kane, & Co., No. 19 Rue a knowledge of twenty years, we can most Scribe, of great convenience in forward- heartily recommend Wm. Knapp, 3 Rue ing goods either to America or the dif- D'Alger, as a highly intelligent and faithferent European cities, their facilities ful man, with large experience. being great. They are agents for the One of the best chemists in Paris is different lines of steamers between Havre Roberts & Co., 23 Place Vendome. and New York, as well as for the line for For English dressing-cases, perfumery, Bremen, also bankers' agents for Wells, brushes, traveling-bags, and all kinds of Fargo, & Co. They issue letters of credit, leather goods, visiting-cards, English staon the different European bankers, and tionery, gloves, etc., we highly recommend have a house in Havre for the purpose of Jones, 23 Boulevard des Capucines, exactfacilitating their business. I ly opposite the Grand Hotel. Dr. W. E. Johnson, a celebrated American physician, has his rooms quite near the Grand Hotel, No. 10 Boulevard Malesherbes. Immediately opposite the Grand Hotel is the Maison Prout, especially noted for the manufacture of boots. This establishment has long been known to American travelers. Not far from the Grand Hotel is the establishment of Mr. Woodman, No.16 Rue Halevy, who stands at the head of the American and English tailoring profession in Paris. One of the most celebrated names in the science of dentistry is, undoubtedly, that of Mr. A. Preterre, the American dentist, 376 I. I I SKnoine \Gla i. I 517 VI - X — i zde,-1Aou - ' - I O lo;$ $' *',o L;10 l;au Ks llar~pjlBlook ANTWERP. [BELGIUM.] ANTWERP. From Malines to Antwerp, distance 14 miles. Time, 45 minutes; fare, 2 fr. 30 c. Antwerp contains 125,000 inlalitants: principal hotel St. Antoine, on Place Verte, most admirably conducted by Mr. Charles Cruyt,well known as manager, during fourteen years, of Delmonico's, New York; fine table d'hote, good cooking, clean rooms, and an excellent wine-cellar. Antwerp, on the right bank of the Scheldt, is the chief port of Belgium, and commands a large amount of foreign trade. It is one of the best-fortified cities in Europe. Its citadel stands on the right bank of the Scheldt, which is navigable for vessels of the largest burden. From the 12th to the 14th century it was one of the principal commercial cities of the globe. The Treaty of Westphalia, in 1648, ruined her commerce by driving her merchants to Amsterdam and Rotterdam. It began to recover its former prosperity, however, toward the end of the last century. Anterior to the close of the 15th century, Antwerp was almost without a rival among the commercial cities of Europe. In the great strug1le which then arose its citizens embraced the Reformed cause, in support of which their town suffered the most dreadful calamities. In 1576 it was sacked by the Spaniards, and being afterward wrested from them, surrendered on favorable terms, after a siege of more than a year's duration, to the Prince of Parma. Subjected to the bigoted and tyrannic sway of Spain, and oppressed by the active rivalry of Holland, it lost nearly all its commerce, and presented the mere shadow of its former greatness. With its occupation by the French at the close of the last century commenced a partial revival of its prosperity. Bonaparte made it one of his grand naval arsenals, and spent enormous sums on the construction of its docks and other works. It is fast recovering, however, the thrifty aspect, extensive trade, and numerous population which it possessed at an earlier period, when its inhabitants are said to have numbered 200,000 persons. There are few places in Europe so rich in magnificent churches and embellished by the most remarkable works of art, such as Rubens's,Vandyke's, Jordaen's, and other great masters of painting, who were natives of Antwerp. The principal street, Place de Mere, rivals any in Europe. The VOL. I.-Z older and narrower streets, bordered by lofty houses with their gables to the streets, are singularly picturesque. The most important public edifice of Antwerp, and one of which its citizens are justly proud, is the Cathedral, a magnificent building 395 feet long and 250 feet wide. Of the height of its steeple we hardly know what to say, the difference between different authorities is so great. Schrieber says it is 466 feet. Murray's Hand-book gives it 403; while the Penny Cyclopaedia affirms it to be only 336! It is of the most beautiful and delicate workmanship. The original design was to raise both towers to the same height. The finished tower contains a mammoth set of chimes: a fee of 1 fr. for one person, and 1 fr. 50 c. for a party, is demanded by the custodian to make the ascent. The view is very magnificent. Near the foot of the tower will be seen a splendid iron canopy: it is the work of Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith of Antwerp, who fell in love with a painter's daughter, but was refused by her father, who would bestow her hand only on a painter. He abandoned the anvil and took to the easel, and eventually far surpassed her father in his own art, as his masterpiece, the "Descent from the Cross," in the Museum, will testify. He married the daughter, and left these two monuments of his genius. The Cathedral and other churches are open from 6 to 12, and from 4.30 to 5.30; most of the finest paintings, however, are veiled, and are shown only between 12 and 4 on payment of a fee of 1 fr. for one person, with proportionate reduction for a party. The interior of the Cathedral corresponds in magnificence and grandeur with the exterior; but its chief attraction is the masterpiece of Rubens, " The Descent from the Cross." It presents Joseph and Nicodemus removing the body of Christ from the cross, while the three Marys are near, assisting with all the care and tenderness imaginable, for fear the dead Saviour might still have the power to feel. The suffering Mary, kneeling and looking up at her Redeemer, with tears of love and sorrow, is one of the most magnificent conceptions of female loveliness. Sir Joshua Reynolds says he considers " Rubens's Christ as one of the finest figures that ever was invented; it is most correctly drawn, and, I ap513 - ANTWERP. [BELGIUM.] ANTWERP. prehend, in an attitude of the utmost difficulity to execute. The hanging of the head on his shoulder, and the falling of the body of Christ on one side, give it such an appearance of the heaviness of death that nothing can exceed it." This picture was given by Rubens for the ground on which he built his house in Antwerp. In the north transept of the Cathedral is Rubens's next best work, "The Elevation to the Cross." There are also his "Resurrection of the Saviour" and "A ssumption of the Virgin." The sculptured Gothic stalls in the principal choir, and the carving of the pulpit, are well worth a visit. In front of the Cathedral, in Place Verte, there is a fine bronze statue of Rubens by Geefs. The old convent of the Recollects has been converted into a Museum, in which is a magnificent collection of paintings, comprising the choicest specimens of the masters of the Flemish school, Vandyke, Jordaens, Rubens, Teniers, and others. Admission from 10 to 3; Sundays and Thursdays free; on other days 1 fr. There is a very good catalogue, which you should by all means buy. It is impossible to give the numbers of each picture, as custodians are continually changing them. You will here find the masterpiece of Vandyke, " The Crucifixion." This celebrated artist must not be confounded with Peter Vandyke, who was also a distinguished painter, and born at Amsterdam. Antoine Vandyke was born at Antwerp in 1599; he was a pupil of Rubens; he travcled through Italy; resided some time at Rome, and a long time at Venice, which he visited for the purpose of studying the coloring of Titian, Paul Veronese, and the Venetian school. He painted the portraits of many noted personages; one of his chefd'oeuvres is a portrait of Charles I. on foot, which is at the Louvre; his St. Sebastian is at the same place. He died in 1641. There are two other pictures of Dead Christs by this artist that have acquired great celebrity. There are two pictures ly Rubens here which are considered by many as fully equal to his " Descent from the Cross" and " Elevation to the Cross" in the Cathedral: they are the " Crucifixion of Christ between the two Thieves," and his "Dead Christ," who lies on a stone table, covered with straw. The art514 ist, in the former picture, has chosen the time when the executioner is plunging his spear into the Saviour's side; at the same time, a soldier is breaking the limbs of one of the malefactors, the expression of whose face is truly horrible: in his writhing he has torn one of his feet from the cross. The attitude of the other, as he gazes on the dying Saviour, is truly expressive of repentance; the horse of the good centurion is a magnificent composition. There are several other pictures here by Rubens of inferior merit. " Boors Smoking," by Teniers: this artist was born at Antwerp in 1610; his father also was a painter. His pictures are mostly small in size. All the sovereigns of his time conferred honors on him, Louis XIV. only excepted. The church of St. Jacques is the handsomest in Antwerp. It contains nearly all the monuments and vaults of the leading families, chief among which is the tomb of Rubens, who was buried here. It is covered with a slab of marble sunk in the floor. During the excitement of the French Revolution, when all the other tombs in the church were pillaged, the universal respect for Rubens's genius left this unscathed. There are numerous paintings by Rubens in this elegant church, among which is his Holy Family. Outside of St. Paul's Church is a representation of Calvary, a very singular composition. At the top of the eminence there is a figure of Christ on the cross; at the bottom there is what is pretended to be a copy of the holy sepulchre, or some portion of it, at Jerusalem, though in no one particular can we see any similarity, and we examined it very carefully. In one part of the grotto there is a figure dressed to represent the Saviour as he lay in the sepulchre; in the other there is a painting representing hell. It contains numerous faces, apparently in great torment. The paintings are miserable, and the design worse. Scattered all around are statues of saints, priests, and prophets in various attitudes. The principal picture within this church is Rubens's "Scourging of Christ." There is also an Adoration of the Shepherds, attributed to the same artist; an early picture by Vandyke, of Christ Bearing the Cross; a Crucifixion, by Jordaens; and a curious picture, by Teniers, the father, representing the Seven Acts of Mercy. ANTWERP. [BELGIUM.] LIEGE. The church of St. Augustine contains Rubens's celebrated picture of " The Marriage of St. Catharine." It is the altarpiece of the church, and considered one of his best works. " The Ecstasy of St. Augustine," by Vandyke, has justly obtained a world-wide notoriety. In St. Andrew's Church is a beautifully carved pulpit, representing Andrew and Peter called from their nets by the Saviour: the figures by Van Gheel, and the other portions executed by Van Ilool. The altar here is also a fine piece of sculpture by Verbruggen. A medallion portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, by Porbus, hangs against a pillar facing the right transept; it is attached to the monument of Barbara Maubray and Elizabeth Curle, two of the queen's ladies in waiting, and one of whom received her last embrace previous to her execution. Notice in the left transept a Crucifixion of St. Andrew, by Otto Vennius, the master of Rubens. The Hotel de Ville is a handsome building of Italian architecture, containing several finely carved chimney-pieces and some excellent frescoes, by Baron Leys. The new Bourse, near the H. St. Antoine, is a handsome building in the late Gothic style. The Theatre is devoted to French plays, but performances only take place between the months of September and May. The house in which Rubens died was situated in Rue de Rubens. After Rubens's death the Duke of Newcastle resided here, and entertained Charles II. while in exile. One of the most interesting places to visit in Antwerp is the Zoological Gardens. The large collection of beautiful birds and fine specimens of animals are not a whit inferior to those of London. Antwerp is noted for the magnificence of its black silk, which is a specialty of this city. The oldest and best house is that of J. H. Vanbellingen and Max'n Suremont. The Belgian Faille and Levantine Washing Silks are much esteemed in England and America. From Antwerp to Brussels. Time, 1 h. 34 m.; fare, 8 fr. 25 c. From Antwerp to Mechlin. Time, 50 minutes; fare, 1 fr. 80 c. From Antwerp to Ghent. Time, 2 h. 5 m.; fare, 4 fr. 50 c. From Antwerp to Rotterdam. Time, 4 h. 80 m.; fare, 11 fr. 70 c. Antwerp to London, via Harirch, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, by the Great Eastern Railway Company's steamers. (See advertisements.) ROUTE No. 135. Brussels to Liege and Verviers (Spa), via Namur, by rail. Time, 5 h. 30 m.; fare, 15 fr. 25 c. Namur, the Sheffield of Belgium, containing 26,530 inhabitants (best hotel, H. de Hollande), is beautifully situated at the junction of the Sambre and Meuse, but contains few objects of interest to attract the notice of travelers. Should they stop, the fortifications and citadel are well worth a visit, as is the handsome cathedral of St. Aubin. It contains the mausoleum of Don John of Austria, the hero and conqueror of Lepanto. Liege, situated at the junction of the Ourthe and Meuse, contains over 107,700 inhabitants. It has several good hotels, among which are the H. de l'Europe and H. d'Angleterre. Lige is the Pittsburg of Belgium. It chiefly manufactures firearms, over 500,000 being yearly made here. It contains a cannon-foundry, and manufactories of spinning-machines and cutlery. Liege was anciently an imperial free city, governed by bishops, who held the rank of independent princes from the 10th century down to the French invasion of 1794. Although there are still some twenty churches remaining, the number was four times as great in the middle of the 16th century. The principal religious edifice is the Cathe. dral, which dates back to the 10th century. It contains some good paintings. The carving of the oaken pulpit is magnificent. The church of St. Jacques is most elaborately painted and gilded, and its painted glass is considered the very perfection of the art. The Palais de Justice, formerly the bishop's palace, was erected in the early part of the 16th century by Bishop Erard de la Marck, a descendant of Sir 515 SPA. [BELGIUM.] Walter Scott's William de la Marck, who figures in his " Quentin Durward," the scene of which is laid at Liege. The watchtower that rises above the Palais is now used as a prison. The University, a very beautiful edifice, erected in 1817, contains a Museum, in which is stored a fine collection of fossil remains found in the neighborhood. There is also a fine botanical garden attached. Outside the walls, in the midst of very elegant grounds, there is a Casino, in which balls are given. Strangers are freely admitted. We would strongly recommend the traveler, if he has not read " Quentin Durward," to do so ere he visits Liege, and when in the bishop's palace he may'recognize much in Sir Walter Scott's novel. It is asserted by some writers that Sir Walter never visited Liege, but it seems hard to reconcile that statement with his very accurate descriptions. Continuing on our route from Libge to Verviers, we soon reach Pepinster, a junction station, whence a line diverges to Spa. Time from Libge, 1 h. 25 m.; fare, 2 fr. 90 c. Spa, celebrated for its iron waters, its beautiful situation, and the salubrity of its climate, is about four hours from Brussels, and nine hours from Paris. Hotel de Flandre, the largest, best, and most comfortable hotel in Spa, finely situated near the Casino Baths. It contains splendid dining, reading, dancing, and smoking rooms, and a large garden; moderate in prices; well managed by the proprietor, Mr. Sury. Spa contains 6000 inhabitants, but this population is more than doubled during the season, which lasts from the 1st of May to the 1st of November. The Spa waters enjoyed a great reputation in the earliest period of history, and are mentioned by Pliny in his writings. In the 12th century strangers flocked here in search of cure, and camped in tents round the different sources. It was not until the 14th century that Collin Leloup, having been cured by the waters of Spa, obtained from the Prince of Liege a concession of land near the Pouhon, and erected a house for the reception of strangers. Gamblinghouses, sanctioned by the government, were established during the last century,.t the end of which the Waux-hall, Salle Levoz, and the Redoute were the three great rival houses. The play, however, 5M8 was finally centred in the Redoute, by an agreement with the government, by which the company was to pay half its gains to the state, and at the same time give balls and concerts in its saloons to the strangers who flocked to Spa, drawn either by love of gambling or by the reputation of the waters. The number of visitorjs attracted in this manner was very great until the year 1872, when, in accordance with an agreement made by the Belgian and German governments, the gambling here was stopped, as well as in Homburg, Wiesbaden, Baden-Baden, etc. Thanks to this suppression, Spa has again become, as it was formerly, frequented by an elegant and choice society, drawn here by the beauty of the country and the celebrity of the waters. The sources or fountains are eight in number: 1. The Pouhon of Peter the Great, situated in the centre of the town, under a colonnade dedicated to the memory of that illustrious emperor. The water of this spring is especially efficacious for weokness of blood, and for illnesses of women and young girls. 2. The Tonnelet acts on constitutions wanting in vitality, and fortifies the stomach and intestines. 3. The Sauveniere has a more acid taste than the Pouhon, and has the reputation of curing sterility in women. 4. The Groesbeck is employed in cases of gout, rheumatism, gravel, etc. 5. The Geronstere contains both iron and sulphur, and is efficacious in cases of bronchitis, asthma, and pulmonary affections. 6. The Barisart contains also a slight quantity of sulphur, and is generally given to extremely delicate persons to habituate them to the waters of Spa. 7. The Marie Henriette, brought through pipes to the town from a place two miles distant, serves in strengthening the muscles, increasing the vitality of the organs, etc. 8. The Champignon, is used as a lotion in maladies of the eyes or inflammation of the eyelids. As many maladies are more easily cured by external than by internal application of the waters of Spa, a large bathing establishment has been erected, contalinig SPA. [BELGIUM.] DINANT. fifty-four bath-rooms, furnished with all necessary comforts, and of exquisite cleanness. There are also several rooms for douches, hot and cold; for Russian baths and vapor baths. The promenades and excursions in the neighborhood of Spa are very beautiful; but as their attractions consist principally in the beauty of the scenery, our limits will not allow a lengthy description. ' he "Allee du Martian," "Promenade de Sept Heures," "Montagne d'Annette et Lubin," "Prbs de Quatre Heures, "Toour des Fontaines," "Promenade des Artistes," "Promenade d'Orleans," "Cascade de Loo," etc., should all be visited by the traveler. During the season a band plays every day at two in the Promenade de Sept Heures, and again at half past-six in the Place Royale. The Casino, formerly called the Redoute, is situated in the Rue Royale, near the Hotel de Flandre. Here the gambling 'was lately carried on. The building now contains a restaurant, caf6, billiard-room, and saloon for ladies on the ground-floor. On the first floor is a reading-room, cardroom (for whist, ecarte, dominoes, etc.), picture-gallery, and large ball-room, where, five evenings in the week, dancing is going on. Wednesdays and Saturdays are the great ball days, when a large orchestra is employed. Besides the balls, concerts are frequently given; and every thing possible is done by the direction of the Casino to make the stay of strangers agreeable. Entrance is allowed only to respectable persons, on the payment of a moderate sum per month. A magnificent new Bath Establishment was opened here in 1877. Horse-races take place in June, bywhich large numbers are drawn to the town; the steeple-chases are in September. Eight miles from Spa is the ruined castle of Les Quatre Fils Aymon, the former residence of "the Boar of Ardennes," William de la Marck-oue of Sir Walter Scott's characters in Quentin Durwardwho slew the Archbishop of Liege. Spa is celebrated for the manufacture of wooden toys. Verviers, a town of 33,750 inhabitants, contains nothing but weavers and dyers; in the town and suburbs 45,000 persons are employed in making the cloth of Verviers, $20,000,000 in value being manufactured here annually. The traveler is detained at the station a considerable time, to have baggage examined preparatory to entering Prussia. From Verviers to Aix-la-Chapelle. Time, 1 h. 6 m.; fare, 3 fr. 35 c. From Verviers to Cologne. Time, 2 h. 26 m.; fare, 14 fr. 35 c. ROUTE No. 136. Brussels to Luxembourg, via Namur and Ar/on. Time, 6 h. 5 m.; fare, 17 fr. 60 c. Leaving Brussels from the Luxembourg station in the Quartier Leopold, the railway passes the village of Boit. fort, a favorite resort of the people of Brussels, and reaches Waterloo, where omnibuses meet the early trains. At Ottignies, three lines are met, going south to Fleurus, southwest to Nivelles, and north to Louvain. Near Gembloux, a town of 2320 inhabitants, carrying on some trade in cutlery, is the battle-field of Ligny. Passing St. Denis Boresse station, the railway approaches Namur, see Route No. 135. Leaving Namur, the Luxembourg railway crosses the Meuse on a handsome bridge, and reaches Ciney, the former capital of the Condroz or Condrusi of Caesar. From here coaches run daily to Dinant, a charming town of 7266 inhabitants, lying at the base of limestone cliffs, surmounted by a citadel, to enter wbich permission is easily obtained. Winding stairs have been cut in the rocks to render the cliffs accessible, while back of the Casino there are several charming walks. Hotel Poste. 517 MARCHE. [BELGIUM.] GHENT. Aye station. Population, 2340. Eight miles distant lies Marchk.-Here the treaty known as the Perpetual Edict was signed by Don John of Austria and the States of the United Netherlands in 1577. The forest scenery beyond here is very fine, and is well described by Shakspeare as the "Forest of Arden." From Jerelle, omnibuses run in twenty minutes to Rochefbrt, a picturesque town, containing a ruined castle in which Lafayette was imprisoned by the Austrians in 1792. From Poix, two stations farther, diligences run to the Abbey of St. Hubert. Distance four and a half miles. This abbey was founded by Pepin d'Heristal, a kinsman of St. Hubert. The latter was devoted to hunting and manly sports. One Good Friday, while forgetful of the holy feast and entirely engaged in his favorite sport, a stag suddenly appeared before him, with a cross growing between its horns. This miraculous apparition caused him to renounce the world, and to pass his remaining days in penance and prayer. He afterward acquired a great degree of sanctity, and was resorted to by an immense number of pilgrims, upon whom various miracles were worked. Not only his hands, but his garments were efficacious in curing madness or hydrophobia, if a mere shred were placed upon the patient's head. The body of the saint was deposited in the abbey in 825, but it is believed to have been destroyed in the conflagration of 1568. The church now contains a handsome altar-tomb, with a reclining effigy of St. Hubert in marble, and eight bas-reliefs, representing different scenes in his life; it was erected by Leopold I. in 1850, and is one of the best works of W. GePfs. In the sacristy numerous relics of the saint are shown. Arlon, supposed to be the Orolanum of the Romans, contains 5700 inhabitants. It is the capital of the Belgian portion of the Duchy of Luxembourg, which was given to Belgium by the treaty of 1831. At Beltingen the railway crosses the Dutch frontier, and soon reaches Luxembourg. Population, 15,000. See Route No. 130. 518 Railways run from here to Treves, to Metz, and Strasburg, and to Pepinster by, Diekirch and Spa. ROUTE No. 137. Brussels to Ostend, via Ghent and Bruqges, by rail. Time, 3 h. 42 m.; fare, 8 fr. 65 c. Ghent, or Gand, situated at the confluence of the Scheldt and Lys, contains 123,000 inhabitants. Hotels, Royale and de la Poste. In the time of Charles V. (1540) Ghent was supposed to be the largest city in western Europe, and contained nearly 200,000 inhabitants; but having rebelled against its sovereign, and proposed to transfer its allegiance to his rival, Francis I., king of France, it forfeited its best privileges, and enormous subsidies were levied on it, from the effect of which it never fully recovered. In 1400 the city of Ghent had 80,000 men capable of bearing arms, and has for five years at a time withstood the siege of its sovereign; but, when conquered, what fearful retribution the inhabitants underwent! The circumference of the walls of Ghent is between 7 and 8 miles. The city is divided into numerous islands, formed by the rivers Scheldt and Lys, most of which are bordered by magnificent quays. There are over seventy bridges crossing the different canals and rivers. The streets are generally wide and the houses handsome, although antique. There are a large number of public squares; the principal are St. Peter's, which serves as a parade-ground for the garrison, and Friday Market Square, named from its weekly linen market held on that day. In this square there is an enormous iron ring on which the authorities expose all defective linen brought into the market. Here the horrible civil broil took place between the weavers and fullers, when 1500 persons were slain. Here, also, the people of Ghent gave their oath of fidelity to Van Artaveldt previous to GHENT. [BELGIUM.]. GHENT. his leading them against their oppressor, Louis de Male. One of the oldest relics in Ghent, and perhaps in Belgium, is the turreted gateway formerly belonging to the castle in which John of Gaunt, or Ghent, was born; it was built in 868, and Edward III., father of John of Gaunt, resided here in 1338: it is situated in Place Pharailde. The principal building in Ghent is the Palace of the University. It was founded by William I., king of Holland, in 1816. It contains an amphitheatre capable of holding 1600 persons, where prizes are distributed to the students of the University; there are also a library and cabinets of natural history and comparative anatomy. The Cathedral of St. Bavon, founded in 941, externally has a very ordinary appearance, but the interior is unrivaled by any church in Belgium. It is entirely lined with black marble; the balustrades and pillars,which are of pure white or variegated Italian marble, form a beautiful contrast. Over the choir are placed the arms of the Knights of the Golden Fleece. Philip II. of Spain held the last chapter here in 1559. This church contains many very valuable pictures, chief among which are Rubens's St. Bavon Renouncing the Profession of Soldier, and the brothers Van Eyck's Adoration of the Lamb: this is one of the most celebrated pictures in Europe. It was taken to Paris by Napoleon, and only the body of the picture was returned; the wings or shutters that inclosed it are preserved in the Museum at Berlin. Considering it is 430 years since this picture was painted, the coloring is most remarkable; it looks as pure as the first day it left its painter's hands. The church of St. Michael contains the once famous picture of the " Crucifixion," by Vandyke, but it has been ruined by modern restorers. There are several fine modern paintings in this church. There are numerous other churches, such as St. Peter, St. Martin, and St. Nicholas, all of which contain very fine paintings. Near the Cathedral of St. Bavon is situated the famous Belfry Tower, founded 1183. Its summit is ornamented with a copper dragon taken from the city of Bruges in 1445; its lower part is now used as a prison; it formerly served as a watch-tower, and in case of the. approach of an enemy the ringing of its bell was the signal to collect the citizens together for the purpose of arming or deliberating. When the Emperor Charles V. punished the citizens of Ghent for their insurrection by beheading some, forfeiting the estates of others, and compelling the corporation to demand pardon on their knees, barefooted and bareheaded, with ropes around their necks, even this bell was punished for aiding in the insurrection by calling the inhabitants together, and was taken down from the tower. The only nunnery in Ghent that has survived the dissolution of these institutions is the Grande Beguinage. It is a small town in itself, is surrounded with a moat, and contains streets, squares, and promenades within its walls. It is inhabited by 600 nuns, many of them of noble blood. They are bound by no particular vow, and may return to the world whenever they please, but there is no case on record where they have ever availed themselves of this privilege. They may all he seen, at the hour of vespers, in the chapel. They attend the sick in the hospitals and private houses, and are considered excellent nurses. There are about 20,000 persons employed in Ghent in bleaching, cotton-printinur, and thread factories; lace-making, woolen, silk, and linen manufactures, are of considerable importance. It has many extensive sugar-refineries, distilleries, breweries, and tanneries, with manufactories of oil-cloths, chemical products, and cutlery machinery, and enjoys a large trade in agricultural produce. Ghent has given birth to many distinguished individuals, among whom may be mentioned Charles V. of Germany, John of Gaunt, son of Edward III., Jacques van Artaveldt, "the Brewer of Ghent," and his son Philip. This city was pillaged by the Danes, under Hastings, when repulsed from England; belonged successively to the Counts of Flanders and Dukes of Burgundy. I; 1678 it was taken by Louis XIV., and ii. 1706 by Marlborough. The treaty of peace between the United States of America and Great Britain was concluded here in 1814. Louis XVIII. took refuge in Ghent in 1815. The largest cannon in Europe is here; the diameter of the bore is 2~ feet! 619 2.cUGBES. [BELGIUM.] BRUGES. The theatre is one of the finest in Europe; it was erected by the city at an expense of nearly $500,000. The nursery gardens in Ghent are well worth a visit. From Ghent to Bruges, distance 28 miles. Time, 1 h. 20 m.; fare, first class, 3 fr. 70 c. Bruges contains a population of 51,539 inhabitants. Principal hotel, and a very good one, is the H. de Flandres, being situated at the junction of canals from Ghent, Ostend, and L'Ecluse. This town is, like Ghent, traversed by numerous canals and bridges, from whence it derives its name. Bruges was formerly the capital and residence of the counts of Flanders, who resided here from the 9th to the 15th century; in the 13th century it was one of the most commercial cities in the world, and even in the 7th century was a prosperous seat of manufacturing and commercial industry. In 1430, Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, here instituted the Order of the Golden Fleece; and during his reign the wealth and splendid attire of the citizens of Bruges were subjects of extreme wonder. Bruges has preserved all the peculiarities which distinguished its appearance in the Middle Ages, although presenting a mournful aspect of desolation. Southey, in his " Pilgrimage to Waterloo," describes its ancient grandeur: "Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! The season of her splendor is gone by, Yet every where its monuments remain: Temples which rear their stately heads on high, Canals that intersect the fertile plainWide streets and squares, with many a court and hall, Spacious and undefaced-but ancient all, Where I may read of tilts in days of old, Of tourneys graced by chieftains of renown, Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold; If fancy could portray some stately town, Which of such pomp fit theatre may be, Fair Bruges 1 I shall then remember thee." One of the most remarkable edifices in the city is the church of Notre Dame. It is surmounted by a high tower, which it is said may be seen, in remarkably clear days, from the mouth of the Thames. The interior contains some very fine paintings, among which are the "Crucifixion" and "Last Supper," by Porbus. There is also an exquisite statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angelo. Horace 520 Walpole offered $15,000 for it. But the principal objects of interest and attraction in this church are the monuments of Charles the Bold and his daughter Mary, wife of Maximilian, emperor of Austria. The last-mentioned was a lovely and amiable princess, and much loved by the Flemish people. She was thrown from her horse, during her pregnancy, while out hawking with her husband, and killed, at the early age of 25. Her father's monument was erected half a century later (1558) by his grandson, Philip II. of Spain. They are both alike; the effigies are richly gilded bronze and silver, and lie on slabs of black marble. The duke is decorated with the Order of the Golden Fleece. A fee of 50 cents is charged to inspect the monuments. The church is open at 4 P.M. The Cathedral of St. Sauveur is an ugly building on the exterior, being built of brick, but the interior is perhaps one of the finest in Bruges. The choir and aisles date from the 12th century, and the nave from the 14th. The arms of the Knights of the Golden Fleece may be seen above the stalls. Notice a fine picture by Peter Porbus of the Last Supper; the Martyrdom of St. Hippolytus. hanging in the south aisle, is falsely attributed to Huns Memling. In the HIospital of St. John (admission, on payment of a small fee, from 9 to 12 and 1 to 6) are a number of very fine paintings, by Hlans Mem'ing. The most interesting of these are to be seen on the coffin in which the arm of St. Ursula is kept. On the sides are painted the different subjects from the story of this saint and her 11,000 virgins. See Cologne. Notice, also, a Holy Family, attributed to Vandyke. In the principal square, or Grand Place, stands a lofty Gothic belfry, considered the handsomest in Europe. In it are 48 bells, some of them weighing six tons. They are played four times an hour, and are nearly incessantly going. Their music is considered the most complete and harmonious in Belgium. They are played by means of an immense cylinder communicating with the clock. On fete-days a professor of music performs the most exquisite airs by striking on immense keys, his hands being covered with leather. a z 0 OSTEND. [BELGIUM.] LOUVAIN. In the Hotel de Vill is the public library, containing many rare and valuable manuscripts. There may also be seen the scheme of a lottery drawn in Bruges in 1445, which renders it very probable that lotteries first originated in Flanders. The Church of Jerusalem is a fac-simile of the Saviour's tomb at Jerusalem. At the Acadenzy of Painting and Cathedral of St. Sauveur there are some very good pictures. From Bruges to Ostend, distance 14 miles; time, 35 minutes; fare, 1 fr. 70 c. Ostend, a city of 18,000 inhabitants, the finest and most frequented bathing resort on the Continent; summer residence of the King of the Belgians, who owns here a magnificent palace by the seaside. The bathing-season opens on the 1st of June and lasts till the end of October. In the centre of the magnificent dike stands the new Casino (erected by the city), an immense and splendid structure covering about 12,000 square yards, and capable of receiving 10,000 visitors. Two orchestras give daily concerts. The daily soirges dansantes and the grand balls of the Casino are much frequented. The pleasures of the season are much varied by grand pigeon-shooting matches, regattas, horse-races, concerts, balls, fetes of every description at the Casino and in the beautiful Park Leopold. The Ostend Sea-Baths are renowned for the beauty of the beach and the evenness and fineness of the sand-bed. They are administered by the city with the greatest regard for the visitors. On an average, 150,000 baths are taken yearly. Strangers from all countries frequent the baths of Ostend, as well as the creme of Belgian society, many noble Russian families, and especially a great number of Germans, of whom it has become the favorite summer resort, since the Emperor of Germany passed several successive seasons there. The Princess Margherita of Italy has lately experienced most salutary effects from a sojourn made here quite recently, as well as the Crown-Prince of Germany. The city has been considerably enlarged and embellished since the demolition, three years ago, of the surrounding fortifications, and, thanks to a grand paved promenade on the new dike, lined by elegant villas, on which is also situated the Hotel des Bains, VOL. I.-Z 2 the principal one of the town. Comfortable apartments, and at every price, are ready for the traveler. Building-sites and lots of all kinds and sizes in the most desirable parts of the town can be bought of the proprietor, Mr. Delbouille, Ostend House, Avenue Leopold, who gives gratuitously any information required, besides offering great facilities for payment. Steamboats for Dover in connection with all express trains. Two departures daily from Ostend, at 10 A.M. and at 8.15 P.M.; two departures daily from Dover to Ostend, crossing in 38 hours. Same arrangements on Sunday. These new and rapid boats, specially constructed for this service, and commanded by officers of the Royal Belgian Marine. Boats direct from London, and vice versa, three times per week. Departure from London-Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Sundays. Departure from Ostend-Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays. Durations of the principal trips by express to Ostend: from London, 6 h. 45 m.; from Paris, 10 h. 10 m.; from Berlin, 19 h. 30 m.; from Bale, 19 h. 30 m.; from Vienna, 39 h. 30 m.; from St. Petersburg, 56 h.; from Brussels, 2 h. 35 minutes. ROUTE No. 138. Brussels to Louvain and Lisge. Time, 8 h. 18 m.; fare, 7 fr. 20 c. Louvain is an ancient town of 31,930 inhabitants, situated on the Dyle. HItel de Suede. It is inclosed on one side by an earthen rampart, from 80 to 100 feet in height, from the top of which a fine view of the town is obtained. The finest building here is the HItel de Ville, a Gothic structure, begun in 1448, finished in 1469, and most elaborately decorated on the exterior. It has of late years been entirely renovated, and possesses no less than 250 statues, which stand in the niches of the towers and three facades. In the niches on the ground floor, statues of celebrated persons born at Louvain, or of those who have rendered great services to the towdf, alone are placed. The interior of the building is interesting, but its collection of pictures not remarkable. The church of St. Peter was founded as 521 LOUVAIN. [BELGIUM.] PRES. early as 1040, but the existing building dates only from the 15th century. Its principal object of interest is a Holy Family by Qu-ntin Matsys, which hangs in a side chapel back of the high-altar. On its shutters the Death of St. Anne and the Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple are painted; the former is beautifully executed. This picture was carried to Paris 'during the Revolution. Between the choir and the nave is a richly ornamented Roodlqft (1440), in front of which hangs a chandelier of wrought iron, with twelve branches, the work of Qulentin sMatsys. This church also contains a finely carved wooden pulpit, date 1742, two altarpieces in the choir chapels, by Steurbout, representing the Last Supper and the Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, and in a nave chapel a curious picture by I. van Rillaer, representing a cook, wearing his apron, who was chosen bishop, owing to the miraculous descent of a dove upon his head. The University of Louvain was in the 16th century considered the first in Europe, being then, as now, principally a school of Roman Catholic theology. At that time it was frequented by 6000 students, and had 43 colleges, endowed by pious founders, dependent upon it; the colleges are now reduced to 20, with greatly diminished funds, and the number of pupils is about 600. The Weavers' Hall, erected in 1317, has been appropriated by the University. In St. Gertrude's Church notice the carved oak stalls, with their detached groups and exquisite bas-reliefs; they date from the 15th century, and are considered the finest in Belgium. This church was originally the chapel of the dukes of Brabant. St. Michael's Church contains some good modern paintings by De Keyser, Wappers, and Matthieu. Louvain is now chiefly famous for its beer, of which 200,000 casks are brewed annually, and mostly exported. The Brewers' Guild stands opposite the Hotel de Ville. * Just outside the Mechlin gate stand the remains of an old Castle, called the Chateau de Cesar, built by the Emperor Arnold in 890, to repel the invasion of the Normans. The Emperor Charles V. was edu522 cated here, together with his sister, by Andrien Boyens, afterward Pope Adrian VI. Continuing on our route to Liege we pass Tirlemont, a thriving town of 12,260 inhabitants, where cloth is extensively manufactured. The church of St. Germain, dating from the 9th century, contains an altar-piece by Wappers. Laden, the cradle of Pepin, who was originally buried here, Waremms, Fexhe, and Ans, all unimportant places, are passed before reaching Liege, see Route No. 135. ROUTE No. 139. Brussels to Calais, via Courtrai, Popertnghe, and Hazebrouck, by rail. Time, 5 h. 50 m.; fare, 16 fr. 10 c. Leaving Brussels by the Station du Nord, we soon reach Oudenarde, situated on the Scheldt. Population, 6300. Hitel Pomme d'Or. This town was the birthplace of Margaret, Duchess of Parma, natural daughter of Charles V., and governess of the Netherlands under Philip II. It contains a beautiful Hotdl de Ville of the 16th century, two fine churches-that of St. Walburga containing an Assumption by Crayer-and an ancient tower called Het Saecksen. A female figure with a wreath of immortelles, by Geefs, stands at the entrance of the town, to commemorate the Belgian volunteers killed in Mexico in 1865. Courtrai, see Route No. 133. I)pres contained in the 14th century no less than 200,000 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the manufacture of linen, at which period no less than 4000 looms were worked. The population is now reduced to 17,600, and thread and thread-lace are the principal articles now manufactured. The Cathedral of St. Martin contains a fine painting attributed to Van Eyck, with the date 1525. The finest building the POPERINGHE. [BELD town contains is the town-hall, a Gothic edifice surmounted by a belfry-tower, with frescoes in the great hall by Swerts and Gruffns. The front is ornamented with 44 statues of counts of Flanders down to the time of Charles V. In the Convent of the Pauvres Clercs is the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect of Jansenists; he was Bishop of Ypres, and died in 1683. The Belgian School of Cavalry is at Ypres. Poperinghe is an uninteresting town of 11,000 inhabitants, carrying on some trade in hemp. At Ooest Cappel is situated the French custom-house. For continuation of this route, see Route No. 133. ROUTE No. 140. Brussels to Paris, via Ial, Mons, and Valenciennes. Time, 9 h. 20 m.; fare, 39 fr. 70 c. Leaving Brussels from the Station du Midi, the railway, after passing Ruysbroeck station, reaches Hal, 7 miles distant. This town, of 7815 inhabitants, contains a rich Gothic church (Notre Dame), with a celebrated black wooden Virgin, resorted to by innumerable GIUM.] MONS. pilgrims, and believed to have worked many miracles. Notice the reredos of the highaltar, in marble, carved by Mone, a native artist (1533). The sacristy of this church was once rich in gold-plate and other votive gifts offered to the Virgin by Charles V., Maximilian I., Henry VIII., and other devotees, but much of it was appropriated by the French during the Revolution. A silver monstrance, presented by Henry VIII. after the capture of Tournai, is still to be seen. A railway runs direct from Hal, via Tournai, to Calais. Time from Brussels, 4 h. 50 m. Mons, a fortified town of 26,900 inhabitants, owes its origin to a stronghold erected here by Julius Ceesar during a campaign against the Gauls. (Hotels, Garin and Royal.) A tower, or befrroi, erected in 1662, occupies the site of Cesar's castle; the more modern castle to which it is attached now serves as a lunatic asylum. The church of St. Waudru is the principal building the town contains; it dates from the 15th and 16th centuries, and possesses a handsome high-altar with marble basreliefs (1556), the work of an Italian artist, and some fine stained glass, also of the 16th century. The Canal de Conde connects Mons with the Scheldt, and facilitates the transport of the large quantities of coal which are produced from the numerous and extensive coal-mines in the vicinity of the town. Query is the Belgian frontier station, and Feignies the French frontier station. For continuation of this route to Paris, see Route No. 133. 523 HOLLAND, OR THE NETHERLANDS. [IISTORY. [HOLLAND.] HISTO R. HOLLAND forms an independent state to the northward of Belgium, and lying along the shores of the German Ocean; its average dimensions in the direction of north and south are about one hundred and fifty miles; its mean breadth is about one hundred miles. The area of the provinces at present constituting the kingdom of the Netherlands-that is, including the duchies of Limburg and Luxemburg-is 13,598 square miles. The population, not including colonies, is 3,809,527. The "'NETHERLANDS," as the term implies, are low countries, exhibiting an almost perfectly level surface; a great part of the country, indeed, toward the coast, is even lower than the level of the adjacent ocean-in some places as much as forty feet below high-water mark. But the sea is prevented from overflowing the land, partly by natural and partly by artificial means, along the eastern shores of the Zuyder-Zee. The sea is shut out by enormous artificial mounds or dikes, which are constructed chiefly of earth and clay, sloping gradually from the sea, and usually protected in the most exposed parts by a facing of wicker-work, formed of willows interlaced together. Sometimes their bases are faced with masonry, and in some places they are defended by a breastwork of piles, intended to break the force of the waves. The preservation of the dikes in good condition is an object of constant attention with the people of Holland, as it is only by their means that large tracts of country are prevented from inundation. The expenditure of keeping these dikes in repair amounts to a large sum annually. The cost of each dike is defrayed by a tax laid on the surrounding lands. The general aspect of Holland is different from that of any other country in Europe. Its surface presents one grand network of canals, which are there as numerous as roads in any other country, the purposes of which indeed they, for the most part, answer. The facility with which the country may be laid under water contributes materially to its strength in a military point of view. This, indeed, is not a resource to be resorted to except on ex524 treme occasions; but it was repeatedly made use of in the war of liberation, and also in 1672, when Louis XIV. invaded Holland. It is said that in 1830 every thing was prepared for an inundation. The climate of Holland is colder than the opposite coasts of England in similar latitudes, and the winter is generally severe. The atmosphere is very moist, owing to the abundance of water. The eastern provinces are drier and more healthy than those immediately adjacent to the coast. The climate of Holland, indeed, is damp, raw, and cold for eight months of the year; hot and unwholesome for four. In the second century Holland was overrun by the Saxons. In the eighth it was conquered by Charles Martel; and it subsequently formed part of Charlemagne's dominions. For four centuries it was gov, erned by the Dukes of Brabant and Counts of Holland and Flanders. In the latter part of the fourteenth century it passed, by marriage, into the hands of the Dukes of Burgundy, then to the house of Austria; and lastly, in 1548, to the Emperor Charles V. Philip II., jealous of the liberties en. joyed by the Dutch, and for the purpose of extirpating the Reformed faith, which had taken firm root in Holland, dispatched a powerful army under the Duke Alva; but the Dutch, instead of being subdued, were driven into open rebellion, and after a fearful struggle, the independence of the republic was acknowledged by Spain in 1609. Holland now contended with England for the empire of the sea. She successfullv resisted the attacks of Louis XIV., and extended her conquests in the east and west. From the time of Louis XIV. down to the Revolution the position of Holland gradually declined (see Motley's "' Dutch Republic"). Notwithstanding the policy of Holland had long been peaceful, it could not protect her from being overrun by revolutionary France. Napoleon constituted her a kingdom for his brother Louis, father of the present emperor. In 1815, after the downfall of Bonaparte, she was united to Belgium by interested parties, and against the wishes of the people. The two nations MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. [HOLLAND.] MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. being totally dissimilar, the union never was cordial, and it was dissolved in 1830. An English writer, speaking of the manners and customs of the natives of Holland, says they are proverbially distinguished by their habits of cleanliness, industry, frugality, and attention to business. Every thing in the aspect of Holland bespeaks this fact. The towns are uniformly clean, regular, and well built; the private dwellings, in which order, economy, and quiet always present the ascendency; and the open country, divided into well-drained and carefully cultivated fields, rich meadows, or productive tracts of garden-land. Drunkenness is rarely met with in Holland, and the general absence of beggars, even in the largest towns, attracts the admiring notice of the stranger. The out-door amusements of the Dutch take their form and coloring from the aspect and climate of their country. During the prolonged severity of the winter season, many sports are performed on the ice; at other periods of the year, fishing is a favorite amusement. The habits of the town population are sedentary; and with the people of town and country alike, and with all ranks and classes, smoking is a taste that is uniformly indulged. Among the fine arts, painting is that which has been most liberally and successfully cultivated. The peasantry of both Holland and Flanders have their peculiar local costume, shown in the wide-spreading breeches of the men and the short jackets of the women. The higher classes, however, are generally attired either in the French or German style. Holland can boast of nothing sublime; but for picturesque foregrounds -for close, compact, snug home scenery, with every thing in harmony, and stamped with one strong peculiar character-Holland is a cabinet picture in which nature and art join to produce one impression, one homogeneous effect. The Dutch cottage, with its glistening brick walls, white-painted wood-work and rails, and its massive roof of thatch, with the stork clappering to her young on the old-established nest on the top of the gable, is admirably in place and keeping, just where it is, at the turn of the canal, shut in by a screen of willow-trees or tall reeds from seeing or being seen beyond the sunny bright of the still calm water, in which its every tint and part is brightly repeated. Then the peculiar character of every article of the household furniture, which the Dutch-built house-mother is scouring on the green before the door so industriously; the Dutch character impressed on every thing Dutch, and intuitively recognized, like the Jewish or Gipsy countenance, wherever it is met with; the people, their dwellings, and all in or about them-their very movements-make this Holland no dull unimpressive land. The Hollander has a decided taste for the romantic. Great amateurs are the Mynheers of the rural districts. Every Dutchman above the necessity of working to-day for the bread of to-morrow has his garden-house (buyteplaats) in the suburbs of his town, and repairs to it on Saturday evening, with his family, to ruralize until Monday over his pipe of tobacco. Dirk Hatteraick, we are told in Guy Mannering, did so. It is the main extravagance of the Dutch middle-class man, and it is often an expensive one. This garden-house is a wooden box, gayly painted, of eight or ten feet square-its name, "My Delight," or " Rural Felicity," or " Sweet Solitude," stuck up in gilt tin letters on the front, and situated usually at the end of a narrow slip of ground, inclosed on three sides by well-trimmed hedges and slimy ditches, and overhanging the canal, which forms the boundary of the garden-plot on its fourth side. The slip of land is laid out in flowerbeds, all the flowers in one bed being generally of one kind and color; and the brilliancy of these large masses of flowers; the white, and green, and paint-work, and the gilding about the garden-houses; and a row of these glittering fairy summer lodges shining in the sun upon the side of the wide canal, and swimming in humid brilliancy in the midst of plots and parterres of splendid flowers, and with the accompaniments of gayly dressed ladies at the windows, swiftly passing pleasure-boats with bright burnished sides below, and a whole city population afloat or on foot, enjoying themselves in their holiday clothes -form, in truth, a summer-evening scene which dwells upon you with much delight. Coffee, tea, beer, and native gin, but especially the first, are the favorite drinks. 525 GOVERNMENT, ETC. [HOLLAND.] ARMY AND NAVY, ETC. When we say that there are nearly ten thousand windmills in Holland, it will be readily understood that they are hardly ever out of sight in a Dutch landscape. They are used for every purpose for which we use the steam-engine. Theirsailsare immense, averaging 8 feet broad and 100 long. Holland is now a constitutional monarchy, hereditary in the family of the Princes of Orange, founders of the independence of the country. The king is also Grand-Duke of Luxembourg, in which capacity he belongs to the German confederation. He nominates all civil and military officers, proposes and promulgates the laws, declares war, and makes peace. The present king, William III., now in his 61st year, is liberal in his ideas, and exceedingly popular with his people. The StatesGeneral consist of two chambers. The First Chamber is composed of 39 members, elected by the conseils generaux. The Second Chamber is composed of 80 members, elected 1 out of every 4500 inhabitants. The States-General are convoked annually, and one third part of the Second Chamber is annually selected. All persons are eligible to office. After the fall of Napoleon I., Belgium and Holland were united, under the title of the Kingdom of the Pays-Bas, or Low Countries, and given to William I., Prince of Orange (the younger branch ofthe House of Nassau), and grandfather to the present sovereign. In 1830 Belgium and Holland were separated. William II., father of William III., died March 17, 1849. William III.-Alexander Paul Frederick Louis —was born February 19, 1817, and married on the 18th of June, 1839, to the daughter of the King of Wurtemberg. He ascended the throne on the death of his father, March 17,1849. William III. has two sons-William, Prince of Orange, born at the Hague, September 4,1840; and Prince Alexander, born at the Hague, August 25,1851. The Queen of Holland died last year (1877). The colonial possessions of Holland are of great extent, those in the East Indies being three times that of the whole of France, or double the State of Texas, with a population of 24,870,600. The receipts amount to some 141 millions of florins, and 526 expenses 130 millions, leaving a profit of 11 millions. Holland also possesses some small islands in the West Indies, with a population of over 41,000. Army.-The army of Holland consists of 61,208 soldiers and 2060 officers, divided into 44,982 infantry, 4506 cavalry, and 11,720 artillery. The colonial army consists of 35,420 men. Navy.-The navy in 1876 consisted of 87 steam vessels, armed with 386 cannon; and 18 sailing vessels, armed with 119 cannon. The imports average about 670 millions of florins, and the exports 510 millions. The public debt in 1876 was 922,741,326 florins. The annual budget is in the vicinity of 110 millions of florins. Accounts in Holland are kept in guilders and stivers. 1 guilder, or Dutch florin, =20 stivers-20 cents United States currency. Travelers should provide themselves with Dutch money as soon as they enter Holland. The Custom authorities are particularly civil to American travelers. The English and French languages are spoken in the principal hotels. Travelers are a good deal annoyed by hotel touters and commissionaires on arriv- * ing at stations, who are generally a bad lot. Go only to the hotels recommended in your guides. Insist on the cabman producing his printed tariff. The cabs are called vigilantes, and tariff tarief. Omnibuses run to the different stations. Traveling in Holland is nearly as high as in England, which is the most expensive country in Europe. The firstclass hotels are all good. Bedrooms cost ftom 2 to 3 guilders; dinners (at four o'lock), 2 to 2~ guilders; service, 1 guilder; tea or coffee, with bread and butter, 15 stivers. Mineral waters are mostly drunk, ordinary water not being considered good. Holland is celebrated for its School of Painting. In addition to the rich collections in the museums of Amsterdam and the Hague, every first-class gallery in Europe points with pride to its specimens of the Dutch School, as exhibited in the works of Teniers, Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard Douw, Wouvermans, Jan Steen, Vandervelde, Cuyp, Backhuysen, Breughel, and many others. There are numerous private collections of these masters in the different cities of Holland. BRIEL. [HOLLAND.] BERGEN-OP-ZOOM. Most direct routes to Holland. —From on which the fleet sets sail, is kept as a London to Rotterdam, via the Great East- universal holiday. The first herrings ern Railway, three times a week, Tues- caught are generally forwarded as a presdays. Thursdays, and Saturdays, in 14 h. ent to the king and his court. 30 m.; fare, $6 25; or, via Calais and Farther up the river, a short distance Brussels. Time, 17 h.; fare, $15 25. inland, situated on the banks of the Schie, From Paris to Rotterdam, via Mons, surrounded by windmills, and enveloped Brussels, and Antwerp. Time, 13 h.; fare, in smoke arising from its hundreds of $10 45. chimneys, is the celebrated town of SchieTwo or three weeks can be used with dam, which contained a population in 1876 profit in Holland, although many travelers of 21,532, nearly all of whom are occupied, hurriedly "do" it in one week, visiting directly or indirectly, with the manufactonly the Hague, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, ure and export of the celebrated Schiedam Saardam, Haarlem, and Broek. Schnapps, a gin here distilled from the Two weeks, at least, should be devoted juniper berry, mostly called jenever, from to its sights, visiting Rotterdam, Delft, juniper. There are between three and Hague, Leyden,Haarlem, Amsterdam, Alk- four hundred distilleries in the town, and maar, Helder, Medembleck, Broek, Saar- its exportation of gin is immense. There dam, Utrecht, Arnhem, Deventer, Loo, is a small port, an exchange, HItel de Ville, Zwolle, Leeuwarden, the Pauper Agricul- and other public edifices. As the distance tural Colonies, and Groningen. from Rotterdam is only four and a half In entering Holland from England the miles, those interested in gin-cocktails and steamer passes through the Maas, com- such like can make an excursion from the bined of the Rhine and Maas, a distance town. of eighteen miles from Rotterdam, passing As most travelers are likely to enter first the fortified town of Briel, noted as Holland from Antwerp, we will continue having been the first town captured from our routes with the Spaniards by the Dutch, under William de la Marck, in 1572, and which became the nucleus of the Dutch Republic. The attack was headed by the brave Gueux de AIer, and was the first attempt at open resistance to the government of Philip II. of Spain. Briel is noted as the birthplace of Admiral Van Tromp. The town is situated on the island of Voorn, and is eight miles from Rotterdam. Custom - house officers come on board here to examine luggage. Five miles above Briel is the Canal of Voorden, cut through the island of Voorn, ROUTE No. 141. through which large vessels pass from the From Antwerp to Rotterdam, by rail. harbor of Helvoetsluis to Rotterdam. At Time, 4 h. 30 m.; fare, 11 fr. 70 c. the harbor of the first-mentioned town is Twenty minutes after leaving Antwerp an arsenal and royal dock-yard, being the the Belgian frontier and custom-house are principal naval station in the south of the passed at Eeckeren. At kingdom. Farther on is Vlaardingen, the Roosendaal the Dutch custom-house is head-quarters of the Dutch, Herring Fish- situated, and travelers' baggage is examery, which employs over two hundred ves- ined. From here two railways branch off, sels. The fishing season commences about one west to Bergen-op-Zoom, and another the middle of June. On the 11th of that northeast to Breda. month the leaders of the herring fleet take Bergen-op-Zoom is a strongly fortified an oath in the Stadhuis to act according town of 8500 inhabitants, situated in the to the laws of the fishery; and on the 14th midst of marshy grounds, which can be of the month nearly all the inhabitants of easily flooded at any moment. It is a town the town repair to the church to pray for which, owing to its many sieges, has an ina prosperous season. The following day, teresting historical record, but possessing 527 MIDDLEBURG. [HOLLAND.] ROTTERDAM. little to arrest the traveler. The railway from here continues across an arm of the sea to Mliddleburg, the capital of Zealand. Hotel, Heerenlogement. Population, 16,000. The principal building is the Town-hall, erected by Charles the Bold in 1468, and decorated with colossal statues of counts and countesses of Flanders, twenty-five in number. Hans Lippershay, a spectaclemaker, invented the telescope at Middleburg (1601). [Breda, 15 miles from Roosendaal, on the road to Utrecht, is an almost inaccessible fortress situated on the rivers Aa and Merk, by whose waters it may easily be surrounded, cutting off all approach of an enemy..Population, 16,000. Hotel de Flandre. At Breda is situated the Military Academy for cavalry, infantry, artillery, and engineers, from which the army of Holland is exclusively officered; it is capable of accommodating 192 cadets. The modern Castle is a square edifice, surrounded by the waters of the Merk; it was built by William, Prince of Orange, afterward William III. of England. The old castle was erected by Count Henry of Nassau (1350). The principal church contains some fine monuments, notably that of Count Engelbert II. of Nassau, artist unknown. St. Barbara's Church is a fine specimen of revived Gothic, and well deserves a visit. There is a Swimming-school, a Museum of Arms, Library, School of Design, etc. Breda was besieged and taken by the Spaniards in 1581; retaken by Maurice of Orange in 1590, under the following curious circumstances: A captain in Prince Maurice's army, with eighty picked soldiers, had themselves conveyed in a barge covered with turf, used in the citadel as fuel. The sluice-gates were opened to allow the barge to enter; the guards were made drunk by the owner of the barge, and when asleep were mostly murdered by the hidden soldiers. Those who escaped were so filled with terror that they fled to the town, forgetting to break down the draw-bridge. A few days later the whole of the army of the Prince of Orange entered the town. The barge was kept as a religious relic until the place was taken by Spinola, in 1625, when it was burned. 528 Breda was taken by the French, under Dumouriez, in 1793.] From Roosendaal the railway continues to Moerdijk, on the route to Rotterdam. The connection between the latter city and Moerdijk was formerly made by three ferries-at Moerdijk over the Hollands-Diep; at Dort over the Merwe; and at Rotterdam over the Maas. A railway bridge has now, however, been constructed, which is one of the largest in the world; it crosses a tidal river of 8200 feet, and consists of 14 spans, with a swing-bridge at the southern extremity; each of these spans is 328 feet in length. At Dort another bridge of four spans and two swing-bridges cross the Merwe. Dordrecht (or Dort) contained, in 1876, 26,150 inhabitants. It is situated on the island of Maas, and is one of the oldest towns in Holland. It does considerable trade with India, the largest East Indiamen coming up to the docks. The town was founded in 994, and is the oldest in Holland. It was separated from the mainland by a terrible inundation in 1421, when the surrounding district (consisting of thirty-five villages) and one hundred thousand of the inhabitants were ingulfed by the waves. Dort contains a good cathedral, Exchange, Hotel de Ville, School of Artillery and of Engineers. It is the great reservoir for the rafts which are brought down the Rhine from the forests of Switzerland; they are here broken up and sawn by the numerous windmills in the vicinity. In an ancient building, called the Kloveniers Doelen, the celebrated sitting of the Protestant divines took place, which lasted six months, discussing most of the time the Calvinistic doctrine of Predestination, and condemning Arminius, Barneveldt, and their followers as heretics. The doctrines then discussed formed the basis of the Established Reformed Dutch Church now in use in Holland. At the close of this celebrated sitting the president declared " its miraculous labors had made hell tremble." Dort is the birthplace of the brothers De Witt; also of the painters Ary Scheffer, Cuyp, Schalcken, and Denys. Rotterdam is situated on the right bank of the Maas, and contains a population (1876) of 132,054, being the second city in Holland in point of population and com ROTTERDAM. [HOLLAND.] ROTTERDAM. merce. It has a magnificent harbor, superb docks, and numerous canals. Principal hotel, Hotel Victoria, a new, comfortable, first-class house on the Promenade, opposite the landing-place, admirably managed by Mr. Tyssen, for many years favorably known to American travelers. The river is sufficiently deep to admit the largest class of ships to the very heart of the city. There being as many canals as streets in the city, the communication is maintained by draw-bridges and ferryboats. The city is thoroughly Dutch in aspect-healthy, clean, and uniform. The houses being high, often quaint-looking, and built of very small bricks, are, as a general thing, more useful than ornamental. Nearly all of the houses have two small mirrors outside the windows, the one reflecting up, the other down the street: the arrangement is such that all that passes outside may be seen without going to the window and being seen yourself. This contrivance is very general in every city and town in Holland. Since 1830 the commerce of Rotterdam has increased more rapidly than that of any other town in the Netherlands, it being much more favorably situated for trade than Amsterdam. There are some hundred fine merchantships belonging to this port, which carry on quite a trade with the West Indies in sugar, coffee, and spices; while the trade in provisions, chiefly in corn, brought down the Rhine for export to England, is very great. Ship-building is also carried on to some extent. Its trade with Java and Sumatra is of great extent, it being a great emporium for Java coffee. It has regular communication with London, Havre, Hamburg, and the different ports of the Baltic, and exports largely in flax and madder. Rotterdam was an important town in the eighth century, and received its charter in 1270. It was taken by the Flemish in 1297. It was surprised and captured by Francois de Brederode, at the head of the Hocksens (a political party in Holland) in 1488, and by the French in 1794. The public edifices of Rotterdam are the Museum, open every day but Monday; from 11 to 3 on Sundays, entrance, 5 cents; and from 10 to 4 on other days, entrance fee, 50 cents. Here there are some 300 paintings, counting among the artists Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Albert Diirer, Ary Scheffer, and the two Wouvermans. Behind the Museum is a fine bronze monument of Gysbert Kurel Van Hogendorf, erected in 1813 by Joseph Geefs. The ca, thedral Church of St. Lawrence, built in 1450, with a magnificent organ, and the tombs of Admirals De Witt, Kotenaar, and Van Brakel. There is an English Elpiscopal Church at the end of the Haringvliet (service at 11 and 6 Sundays). It was erected by subscriptions from English residents in 1706. There are also Scotch and English Presbyterian churches. The Exchange, with a library and a good collection of philosophical instruments; Custom-house, new Stadthouse, Palace of Justice, Admi. ralty, and Dockyard. The town contains many charitable institutions, the central prison of the Netherlands, and many superior schools. Erasmus was born here in 1467. The house of his birth is still preserved, and there is a bronze statue of the Reformer in the market-place. There is nothing that will more amuse the traveler during a day than walking about the streets and canals; he will be struck with the oddity of every thing, so entirely different from his own country. There is a very fine botanical garden, and several refreshment gardens outside the gates; also several clubs within the city. At the west end of the town is the New Park, with beautiful grounds. Military concerts every Sunday at one o'clock, when all the beauty of Rotterdam turns out in its best habiliments. Notice within the park a white marble statue of Holland's favorite poet, Tollens. The Zoological Gardens are situated outside the Delft Gate, and contain some beautiful birds. On the other side of the Maas (reached by a steam ferry-boat) is Fifenoord, noted for its steam dock-yards. Barges, called here trekschuiten, start on the canals every hour for Delft. Fare, 40 cents; time, 2 h.; and for the Hague, fare, 60 cents. Trains every few hours for Amsterdam, the Hague,Haarlem,Utrecht,and the Rhine. Steamers daily to Gouda, Antwerp, Nijmegen, Moerdijk, Middleburg, and to London, via Harwich. 529 DELFT. [HOLLAND.] THE HAGUE. ROUTE No. 142. Rotterdam to Amsterdam, via the Hague, Leyden, and Iaarlem, by rail. Time, 1 h. 55 m.; fare, 39 fr. 75 c. Time from Rotterdam to the Hague, 40 m. Rotterdam, see Route No. 141. Delft contains 21,840 inhabitants. Hotels, Den Bolk and Casino. This town was formerly very celebrated for its " pottery-ware," known by the name of Delftware. The principal objects of curiosity are the Stadhuis and the New Church, which contains the monument of William I., Prince of Orange, who was assassinated July 10, 1584, by Balthazar Gerard, an agent of Philip II. of Spain and the Jesuits: they had previously made eight attempts to murder him. There is an inscription on the tomb referring to a small favorite dog, which, on one occasion, when the Spanish assassins were on the point of murdering the prince, who lay asleep in his tent, by jumping on the bed and barking violently awoke the sleeper in time to make his escape. The poor creature, after the murder of its master, pined away and died. The Old Church contains the monument of Admiral Van Tromp, the hero of thirtytwo fights: the monument has a bas-relief representing the engagement in which he was killed. This church has a leaning tower. Near it is the Prinzenhof, the house in which the prince was shot. The house was originally the Convent of St. Agatha. An inscription on a stone records the event; below which are three holes, said to be those made by the poisoned bullets which killed him. He expired in the arms of his wife, who was a daughter of the famous Admiral Coligny, Mar6chal of France, who perished one of the first vic580 tims of St. Bartholomew. The month after Prince William's death, the States of Holland assembled at Delft, and placed his son Prince Maurice at the head of the nation. Near the entrance to the town is the state arsenal of Holland, surrounded by canals. The town is well built, of brick, and very clean. The English regicides-Barkstead, Corbet, and Okey-settled at Delft, where they were arrested, sent to London, and executed at Tyburn. On the right of the railway, between Delft and the Hague, may be seen the church of Ryswyk, near where the celebrated treaty of peace was signed between England, France, Germany, Holland, and Spain. The site of the house, then occupied by the Prince of Orange, is marked by an obelisk. The lague has a population of 100,254 (1876). The principal hotel is the Bellevue. This house is very beautifully situated, and well conducted. The city, situated three miles from the shore of the German Ocean and thirty-two from Amsterdam, is one of the best-built cities in Europe. The streets are wide, and paved with brick. It contains many fine walks bordered with trees, palatial mansions, exquisite villas, and lovely gardens. It is the seat of government, and of the supreme court of justice, and ranks as the political capital of the kingdom. It is the residence of the court and the abode of foreign ministers. The Hague was originally the hunting-seat of the Counts of Holland, and was named La Hague from the hedge which surrounded their lodge. The Hague is indebted to Louis Bonaparte for conferring upon it the privileges of a city. The chief attraction at the Hague is an unrivaled collection of paintings by the Dutch masters, in the National Museum, which occupies the former palace of Prince Maurice-an elegant building of the 17th century. The lion of this collection is the Young Bull, by Paul Potter, a picture which occupies nearly the whole end of one of the rooms. This highly prized work of art was carried off to Paris by order of Napoleon, and hung up in the Louvre, where it was considered the fourth in value in that collection, which is the largest in the world, though not the most valuable. The Dutch government offered Napoleon one hundred thousand dollars if he THiE HAGUE. [HOLLAND.] THE HAGUE. would allow it to remain at the Hague. The picture represents a young bull with white and brown spots, a cow reclining on the greensward before it, two or three sheep, and an aged cowherd leaning over a fence. The figures are all life size, and, unlike large pictures, every thing will endure the closest inspection. It is Potter's masterpiece, and is valued at $25,000. Paul Potter was born at Enkhuysen, in Holland, in 1625. His particular forte lay in painting animals. He died in 1654. The next work of art in importance is by Rembrandt; it is the dissection of a dead man by a professor and his pupils. Paul Rembrandt was born in 1606. He was very celebrated as a portrait-painter; he also painted some historical pictures. He died in 1674. There are several other fine pictures by him in the Museum. One of the finest pictures in this collection is Poussin's Venus Asleep: a satyr is drawing off the drapery. This artist was one of the most celebrated historical painters the world has ever produced: he was born at Andelys in 1594; studied a long time at Rome; was high in favor with Louis XIII. and Cardinal Richelieu. He died at Rome, in the 72d year of his age. There are several other splendid pictures by Gerard Douw, Holbein, Keyzer, Albert Durer; some of Wouvermans's best specimens; a storm at sea, by Horace Vernet; two fine portraits, by Rubens-his first and second wives; a hunting scene, by Snyders; a landscape, by Rubens. The lower floor of the Maurits Huis contains the Royal Cabinet of curiosities, which, for its size, is one of the most interesting ever visited, and it is by no means small. It comprises costumes of the Chinese and Japanese of different ranks, historical relics of eminent persons, large collections of Japanese-ware, weapons, coats of mail, and surgical instruments. Among the relics is the dress worn by William, Prince of Orange, the day he was murdered at Delft, the shirt and waistcoat worn by William III. of England the three last days of his life, sword of Van Speyk, the armor of Admiral Van Tromp, a portion of the bed in which Peter the Great slept in his hut at Zaandam, also a model of his cabin. The picture-gallery and museum are open daily from 9 A. M. to 3 P. M., except Sunday; on Saturday it may be visited only from 10 to 1. There is a very good catalogue for sale. The King's Palace, which is near the Museum, is built in the Grecian style, but is not particularly beautiful within or without. It contains the state-rooms in which the King gives audience to his subjects every Wednesday. The Palace of the Prince of Orange contains a very good collection of Dutch paintings, and a large collection of chalk drawings, by the old masters. It was formerly the property of Sir Thomas Lawrence. The Binnenhof is a handsome, irregular, Gothic building, formerly the residence of the Counts of Holland. It is now occupied by different government offices, and the chambers in which the States-General meet. The Hague contains a large number of churches, public and private schools, a state-prison, a library of 100,000 volumes, with a large collection of medals, gems, etc. There are two or three private galleries of paintings that are well worth a visit; those of M. Steengracht and M. Weimar are the principal. The latter are mostly miniatures; in the former are some fine Rembrandts and Tenierses. They must be visited before 12 o'clock: a fee should be given to the servant. There is a fine bronze equestrian statue of William I., Prince of Orange, near the Museum. It was erected in 1848. In the 9th century the Hague was only a hunting-lodge. In 1250 William II. built a palace. In the 16th century it became the seat of government, but it ceased to be the capital in 1806, when Napoleon created the Kingdom of Holland and removed the capital to Amsterdam. In 1814, on the downfall of Napoleon, the seat of government was again located at the Hague. It has been the scene of numerous treatiesin 1630, between France and Holland; in 1658, between France, Holland, and England; in 1701, between the Empire, England, and Prussia against France. The Zoological and Botanical Gardens contain numerous interesting specimens of animals and plants. At the Theatre, French and Dutch operas are performed alternate nights during the season, or four times a week during the autumn and winter. The Public Baths are situated behind the cathedral. In the Willens Park is a: 531 $CHEIyBNINGEN. [HOLLAND.] KATWIJK. monument to Frederick William, Prince of Orange. William III. of England was born at the Hague. We would most strongly advise travelers not to leave the Hague without visiting 'T Huis in 't Bosch, or " The House in the Woods." It was the residence of the late Queen of Holland, who died in 1877. It is reached by the elegant promenade the Voorhout, a fine wide road lined with elegant mansions and rows of trees. "The -louse in the Woods" stands in the centre of a finely wooded park, embellished with artificial lakes and lovely gardens. Externally it is of an unpretending character, but within it has such an appearance of the luxurious home! The Queen's apartments teemed with exquisite little gems of paintings, statuettes, bronzes, etc., likenesses of the late Emperor Napoleon III. and the Empress Eug6nie predominating. The billiard-room is hung with family portraits. The Orange Hall, or ball-room, is most magnificent in paintings. Ceiling, walls, and all are covered. Part of its ceiling was painted by Rubens, and part by Jordaens; while Jordaens, Hondthorst, and others finished the walls. Many of the rooms are hung with Chinese silk, beautifully worked. But then its fragrant gardens, its flowers, its butterflies, its birds! Oh, what music! The most gorgeous description in " The Arabian Nights" would not do justice to it. Every thing was fresh as the breath of spring, blooming as a rosebud, and fragrant as an orange-flower. 'About 3 miles from the Hague is the watering-place of Scheeeningen.(population 9000), which is very fashionable during the season. Apartments may be had at any price, although the tariff is high. It was from this place that Charles II. embarked for England after the downfall of Cromwell. Omnibuses are constantly running between the village and the Hague; also a horse railway. Principal hotel, liHtel de la Promenade, newly built on the Avenue, 10 minutes from the beach in the direction of the Hague; comfortable apartments. Trains from the Hague to Leyden every hour; time, 30 m. Leyden is a town of 40,724 inhabitants; hotel, Plaats Royal. It is very prettily situated on the Rhine, and is celebrated for its University, which has 600 students and 632 30 professors. This is one of the most distinguished schools in Europe, and the towh long maintained the appellation of the "Athens of the West." It has a very valuable museum attached to it. The town is surrounded by a moat. It has eight gates, but its ramparts have been changed into promenades. It is divided by the Rhine into numerous islets, connected by stone bridges. In a tea-garden in the centre of the town stand the ruins of a round tower, said to have been constructed by Drusus Germanicus about the commencement of the Christian era. The Stadhuis, or town-hall, contains some very fine pictures: among them is a portrait of the brave burgomaster, Peter Vanderwerf, who so bravely defended the town when besieged by the Spaniards in 1574. The inhabitants lived on dogs, cats, and rats for weeks after their provisions had given out. They were finally relieved by the Prince of Orange, who inundated the country. There is a monument erected to his memory in the Church of St. Pancras. There is also a picture by Wappers representing the siege. Among other celebrated pictures are the Last Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden, and the Crucifixion, by Engelbrecht. In the Museum of Natural History (open from 9 to 3), which is one of the finest in Europe, there are some remarkable mineral productions, among which is the largest topaz in the world; also a piece of native gold weighing nearly 17 pounds. The Botanical Gardens, Dr. Siebold's Japanese Collection (open daily from 9 to 3; fee, half-guilder), and the Egyptian Collection are all well worth seeing. A visit should be made to the Promenade outside the walls. It is shaded by a double row of trees, and is the usual resort of the inhabitants. Leyden is surrounded by windmills and private villas. About five miles from Leyden is Katwjk, where, in 1809, King Louis Bonaparte, father of the late Emperor Napoleon III., erected immense sluice-gates, for the purpose of helping the Rhine to discharge its waters into the sea. The works are remarkable, and well deserving a visit. They were executed by the celebrated engineer Conrad. The town contains some 4200 inhabitants, and is much visited by the middle classes during the season for WARMOND. [HOLLAND.] HAARLEM. sea-bathing. It.may be reached by omnibus or steamer on the Rhine. Trains from Leyden to Haarlem nearly every hour; distance, 19 miles. Two miles from Leyden is Warmond, where there is a Roman Catholic college. Eleven miles farther is Vogelenzang, where may be seen the immense steamengines for filling a reservoir of seven acres, to supply the city of Amsterdam with water. Haarlem, situated on the Spaarn, contains 34,132 inhabitants. Hotels, Alouette and Crown. This town is well known in history for the remarkable and prolonged siege which it endured in 1573. It lasted seven months, at the end of which time the inhabitants, wasted by famine, having consumed every thing within the walls, determined to make a sortie and cut their way through the enemy's camp. The Spaniards, hearing of this desperate determination, offered pardon and amnesty if they would yield the city and deliver up 57 of their principal citizens. For the sake of the starving women and children, 57 of the citizens voluntarily yielded themselves up. The city surrendered to the Duke of Alva, who basely violated the terms of the capitulation, putting all the garrison and nearly 2000 of the citizens to death. Haarlem was formerly famous for its bleaching-works, as well as for its cotton manufactures; but both of these branches of industry have fallen off. It is a great mart for the sale of bulbous roots, tulips, hyacinths, and others, which are very extensively cultivated in its outskirts, and supply the floricultural tastes of the most distant portions of Europe. When the tulip mania was at its height in Europe, the most fabulous prices were paid for the bulbs of Haarlem. Instances are recorded where $2000 was paid for a single bulb. The public gambled in them as they do in the different stocks, and they were bought and sold without ever appearing in the transaction. The highest price any of them now brings is $50, although the average price is about 25 cents. There is one horticulturist who exports annually 300,000 crocuses, 200,000 tulips, 100,000 hyacinths, and 100,000 ranunculuses, besides other flowers. The principal edifice in the city is the Church of St. Bavon, a vast Gothic structure with a high square tower, from which there is an extensive view. It contains one of the lions of the Continent, the great organ, which has 5000 pipes and 60 stops. Its largest metal pipe is 15 inches in diameter. It fills up the whole of one end of the church, reaching nearly to the roof. It is played on certain days, when all are admitted gratuitously. At all other times the fee is $5 for the organist and $1 for the blower. The party may be large or small, it makes no difference. Every Tuesday.and Thursday, from 1 to 2 o'clock, a selection of music is played, to hear which the public are admitted gratuitously. Underneath the organ are three excellent statues, representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. Opposite the church is a statue of Lawrence Coster, the reputed inventor of movable types. The Stadhuis, which dates from the early part of the 17th century, contains a muscum of portraits, many of which are of rare interest. At the south of the city there is a wood of considerable extent. In it there is a pavilion fitted up as a picture-gallery, containing the works of modern Dutch artists. This elegant mansion was built by a banker of Haarlem named Hope, and sold by him to the Emperor Napoleon I. for a residence for his brother Louis. It now belongs to the King of Holland. Among the collection is the Wreck of the William I., by Meyer; the Meeting (of Isaac and Rebecca, by Navez; Battle of Waterloo, by Pieneman; the Marriage of Jacqueline of Bavaria and the Duke of Brabant. The gallery is open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday from 10 to 4 o'clock. On other days a small fee will procure admittance. The neighborhood round Haarlem is beautifully laid out in plantations and public walks, and sprinkled with lovely villas. The famous engines that pumped out the Lake of Haarlem, nearly 1,000,000,000 tuns of water, are well worth a visit. By means of this stupendous undertaking, 50,000 acres of land were redeemed and made productive. The appearance of the country, as we approach Amsterdam, is very interesting-with causeways, canals, sluices, and windmills in every direction. Trains from Haarlem to Amsterdam every hour time, 30 m. 533 AMSTERDAM. [HOLLAND.] AMSTERDAM. Amsterdam derives its name from to dam" the river "Amstel," which runs through the city, and divides it into two nearly equal portions. This commercial capital of Holland, and one of the most wonderful in Europe, contains 289,982 inhabitants. Principal hotels are Hotel A mstel, and Brack's Doelen Hotel-a most admirable hotel, one of the very best in Holland: it has large and spacious baths connected with it. The first named is a new and magnificent house, admirably managed. There is a telegraph-office in the house, stables attached, and every accommodation to make the traveler comfortable. The city, nearly crescent-shaped, has had its ramparts planted with trees and converted into boulevards, the inhabitants trusting their safety to the facility for inundating the surrounding country. On both sides of the Amstel, in the centre of the city, the streets and canals are.very irregular; but running parallel with the walls are four canals, and streets not easily matched in any other city of Europe, either for their length, width, or the elegance of their buildings. Tleyare called PrincenGracht, Keyser Gracht, Heeren Gracht, and Singel Gracht. These are so intersected with other canals that they divide the city into 90 islands, which are crossed by nearly 300 bridges, partly wood and partly stone. The principal streets are about two miles long. The houses are nearly all of brick, large and well built. The whole city, however -wharves, streets, houses, and canals-is built on piles driven into the ground. The mouths of the canals which open into the River Y (pronounced eye), and also those of the River Amstel, are provided with strong flood-gates, and a dike is erected upon the side of the town nearest the sea to guard against the chance of inundations. The harbor is secure and spacious, and the largest ships come close up to the quays and warehouses. The Royal Palace is the finest building in the city, and, indeed, one of the noblest to be any where met with: it stands in an open space or square called the Damm. This fine structure, regarded by the Dutch as one of the wonders of the world, is erected on a foundation of over 13,000 piles: it is 282 feet in length, 235 in depth, and 116 high, exclusive of the cupola, which is 41 feet higher, and from the top of which 534 there is an excellent view of this most singular city. The palace is richly adorned with pillars and various works of art. During the reign of Louis Bonaparte it became his palace. It was built between the years 1648 and 1655. It contains one large hall in the centre of the building, used for a ball-room, which is considered one of the finest in Europe: it is 125 feet long by 55 feet wide, and is lined with white Italian marble. The palace contains many splendid paintings: one of the most attractive is Van Speyk blowing up his ship sooner than yield to the Belgians, by Wappers. This is situated in the Audience Chamber. In the Bankrupt Court there is a splendid group, representing Daedalus and Icarus. The tower of the palace should be mounted, as from its summit the best view of this curious city can be obtained. The Mitseum, containing an excellent collection of about 500 pictures, including several masterpieces, principally of the Dutch and Flemish schools, is open to the public from 10 to 3 every day but Saturday, when a fee of one guilder to the keeper will insure admission. Catalogues containing fac-similes of the different painters' autographs are for sale, price 1- guilders. This catalogue also gives you the original cost of most of the pictures, also the cost to place them in this gallery. One of the best pictures here, although one ofthe smallest, is Gerard Douw's Evening School: the effect of several candles is magnificently rendered. The picture is about 14 by 20 inches: it cost, in 1766, $800; in 1808, when purchased for the Museum, it cost $3700. The great lion of the gallery is considered the Banquet of the Civil Guard. This chef-d'oeuvre of Van der Helst represents a banquet of the Garde Bourgeoise, which took place June 18, 1648, in the grand Salle du St. Loris Docle in the Singel at Amsterdam, to celebrate the conclusion of the peace of Mtinster. The 25 figures which compose this picture are all portraits. Sir Joshua Reynolds says: "Of this picture I had heard great commendations; but it as far exceeded my expectations as that of Rembrandt, the Night Watch, fell below it. Rembrandt's La Ronde de Nuit, as well as his Five Masters of the Drapers' Company, is considered a remarkable work, notwithstanding Sir Joshua's opinion. Ten AMSTERDAM. [HOLLAND.] AMSTERDAM. iers's Body-Guard, Temptation of St. An- able collection of modern pictures, etchings, thony, and Hour of Repose, are all excel- engravings, and ancient and modern drawlent works. The museum contains one of ings. In the Artists' Club on the Rokin the finest collections of prints in Europe, there is also an Historic Gallery of Paintings most of which were collected by Van by celebrated Dutch artists of the present Leyden. day; admission, 25 cents. The principal There are numerous private collections promenade is the Plantaadje, near the dockin Amsterdam, among which are those of yards, and surrounded by canals. Near M. Six and Madame Van Loon. this are the Zoological Gardens, which well The New Church contains some fine mon- deserve a visit: the fashionable world of uments, particularly one erected in honor Amsterdam may be seen here on Wednesof the brave Admiral De Ruyter. The Old day evenings and Sunday afternoons. Church of St. Nicholas has some of the An English writer says the Dutch bear finest painted windows in Europe. a strong resemblance to the Chinese: Amsterdam is famous for the number of like that industrious and economical race, its charitable institutions; there are over they keep their hogs, their ducks, and other twenty of different descriptions in the city. domestic animals constantly on board their Among others is the Society for the Promo- vessels. Their cabins display the same tion of the Public Weal, extending all over neatness as the parlors of their countryHolland, comprising 14,000 members; also men on shore. The women employ themthe Burgher Orphan Asylum. You never selves in all the domestic offices, and are see a man, woman, or child in the street assiduous inembellishing their little sittingcovered with rags, and a case of drunk- rooms with the labors of the needle; and enness is of rare occurrence. It is said many of them have little gardens of tulips, that Charles II. of England, who had hyacinths, anemones, and various other lived a long time in Amsterdam, remarked, flowers. Some of these vessels are of great when Louis XIV. was about attacking the length, but generally narrow, suitable to city, that "Providence will preserve Am- the canals and sluices of the town. sterdam if it were only for the great charity Ship-building is carried on to a great exthey have for the poor." tent in Amsterdam. There are also manTo obviate the dangers and difficulties ufactures of linen, cotton, silk, with dis* of navigating the shallow water of the tilleries and breweries, tanneries and toZuyder-Zee, a ship-canal has been con- bacco manufactories. The art of cutting structed from Amsterdam to the Helder, a diamonds and other stones for the lapidadistance of 50~ miles, and at an expense of ries has here attained a great perfection. about $5,000,000. This magnificent work If you are not a dealer in diamonds, you is 20 feet deep, and sufficiently wide for can obtain permission to witness the proctwo large ships to pass each other. The ess of cutting and polishing the stones. dues are moderate, and it has been of the The mills are worked by steam-engines; greatest service to Amsterdam. the machinery, acting on metal plates, There are three theatres in Amsterdam, causes them to revolve with fearful rawhich are opened alternately every night pidity. On these plates pulverizeddiamond in the week, Sundays excepted. The is laid. The diamond to be polished is performances are in Dutch, Italian, and then placed on a cap of amalgamized zinc French, and begin at 6 or 6.30. There and quicksilver, and pressed on the plates. are also two smaller ones, where smoking Diamond dust is the only thing that will is allowed, with concerts at Frascati's. The cut diamond. When a diamond is to be theatres are closed from May to September. cut, the diamond dust is placed on a very In the Oude MAan Huis are some fine fine wire, and drawn rapidly backward and paintings bequeathed to the Royal Acad- forward. Hence the origin of " Diamond emy by M. Van der Hoop. Among them cut diamond." The refineries of smalt and is a remarkably fine Ostade from the cabi- borax are peculiar to Amsterdam, as well net of the Duchesse de Berri. Admission, as the manufacture of vermilion and rouge. 50 cents. Steamers leave for Hamburg every five The Fodor Museum, open daily from 10 days; also for London, Hull, St. Petersto 2 (entrance, 50 cents), contains a valu- burg, Stockholm, and Marseilles. 534*, .SAARDAM. [HOLLAND.] CASTRICUM. An excursion should be made to see the town of Broek, about 6 miles east of Amsterdam: it contains about 900 inhabitants. Take the steam ferry-boat to Waterland, and a carriage from there to the village. It is celebrated'for the wealth of its inhabitants, who are principally landed proprietors or retired merchants, but more celebrated for the extreme cleanliness of its houses and. streets, the attention to which has been carried to an absurd and' ridiculous excess. The houses are mostly of wood, painted white and green; the fronts of many of them are painted in various colors; the roofs are of polished tile, and the narrow streets are paved with bricks, or little stones set in patterns. Carriages can not enter the town; you can not even ride your horse through it, but must lead him or leave him outside. The natives are very much like the Turks: they take off their shoes before entering their houses, and walk in slippers or in their stockings. Even the Emperor Alexander, when he visited Broek, was obliged to comply with this custom. Saardam, or Zaandam.-Steamers leave Amsterdam every two hours for Saardaam in the summer season, and twice a day in winter. This town is remarkable for two things-containing the cottage in which Peter the Great lived while learning the trade of a shipwright, and the immense number of its windmills. Peter the Great, founder of the modern dynasty of Russia, visited Holland in order to learn the art of ship-building, that he might be enabled to instruct his subjects. He was troubled so much by the crowd of gazers who assembled to see him work, that he left the employ of Mynheer Calf, in whose yard he worked,; and entered the dock-yard of the East Indian Company in Amsterdam, that being inclosed by walls. He subsequently worked in the dock-yards of Deptford, England. The cottage was purchased by the Queen of Holland, sister of the Emperor Alexander, who had it inclosed with shutters. Every portion of it is covered with the names of visitors, even of the Emperor Alexander, who caused a tablet to be 44# placed over the mantel-piece with the inscription, "Nothing too small for a great man." Saardam contains about 11,000 inhabitants. It is the Greenock of Amsterdam, and splendid fish dinners may be got at the Otter Hotel. Its distance from Amsterdam is 9 miles; time by steamer, 1 h. Many of the 400 windmills at this place are kept continually grinding a volcanic tufa, which, when mixed with lime, makes terras, which has the remarkable property of becoming harder the longer it is submerged in water-consequently very valuable to the Dutch in the construction of their locks and dikes. Two hours are quite sufficient to see this town, at the end of which time the steamer returns to Amsterdam, enabling the traveler to make this excursion in about four hours. ROUTE No. 143. The Hague to Haarlem and Helder, by rail. Time 3 h. 40 m.; fare, 5 g. 90 c. For description of the Hague and Haarlem, see Route No. 142. At Velzen.-The New Ship-Canal, carried on by Dutch and English engineers, and intended to connect Amsterdam directly with the North Sea, may be inspected. Two piers are being thrown out, each 5000 feet long, inclosing 250 acres, which form the Great North Sea Harbor of Refuge. The Tidal Basin stretches inland from this, forming the entrance to the canal. Beverwijk.-A town of 2700 inhabitants, situated in the centre of an immense meadow. The inhabitants are mostly interested in raising cattle, beautiful herds being seen in every direction. At Prinzensbosch, in the vicinity, is a handsome residence, the property of William III. The plot which led to the revolution in England and the dethronement of James II. was concocted here. Castricum is noted as being the place where the English were defeated in 1799 by ALKMAAR. [HOLLAND.] LEEUWARDEN. the French, under General Brune. In the to Harlingen, and return to Amstervicinity are the ruins of the castle of dam via Leeuwarden, Groningen, Meppel, Egmont. Zwolle, and Utrecht; or from Leeuwarden Alkmaaar contains 11,000 inhabitants. It direct to Meppel, visiting the Pauper Col. is situated on the Great Canal of the Texel, onies. and carries on a larger trade in cheese than Steamers also leave Amsterdam direct to any other place in the world. A cheese Harlingen, touching at Enkhuysen, a fishmarket is held here weekly; no less than ing town of 6000 inhabitants, noted as the 10,000,000 lbs. of cheese are weighed annu- birthplace of Paul Potter. Ten miles west ally in the town scales. The neighboring of Enkhuysen is Medemblik, also on the dairies are worthy of a visit. It is noted Zuyder-Zee, containing the Royal Naval for having withstood the siege of the Span- Academy of Holland, through which all iards in 1573. Hltel de Toelast. pupils must pass before they can enter the liet Nieuwe Diep, or Willernsoord, is a navy as midshipmen. port formed entirely artificially by means West from Enkhuysen is Hoorn, or Horn, of piers and jetties, which affords protec- a commercial town, formerly of great imtion to all vessels entering the Great Canal, portance, as it was here that Admiral De and even to men-of-war. The North Hol- iuyter's great fleet was built. Here also indi Canal here terminates in the sea, was born William Schouten, who first whlich is excluded at high tide lby means doubled the southern cape of America in of a sluice-gate ingeniously contrived so 1616, and called it after his birthplace. as to be shut by the rising tide, against Tasman, the discoverer of New Zealand which it serves as a defense. Population, and Van Diemen's Land, was also born 4100. IHotel Don Burgq. Houses extend here: the last named was called after Van from here for more than a mile along the Diemen, uncle of Tasman, who at that time side of a canal to was governor of the Dutch possessions in The Helder, a strongly fortified town, con- India. Tasman was born in 1600, and disverted by Napoleon I. from a fishing-ham- covered Van Diemen's Land in 1642. let into a first-class fortress, and called by From Horn to Purmerend, a town noted him his Northern Gibraltar. He spent for the great quantity of cheese sold, is a upon it many millions of francs, but it was distance of three hours by carriage. unfinished at his overthrow. (Population, Steamers from Amsterdam to Harlingen 12,000.) The entrance to the harbor and in 6 h. 30 m. Grand Canal and the roads of the Mars Harlingen (hotel, Ileerenblgement), a shipDiep are defended by the batteries of this ping town, situated on the Zuyder-Zee, confortress; a light-house rises fromn the Fort taining 10,500 inhabitants: it is surrounded Kijkduin, which occupies the highest posi- by a dike over forty feet high to protect it tion of the dunes. The town and fortress from being swallowed up by the sea, as its of the Helder lio within and are defended predecessor was in 1134. It does considerafrom the encroachments of the sea by an ble business in agricultural produce. immense dike. two leagues in length, whose There are steamers daily to Amsterdam, summit is 40 feet in breadth, and upon which and twice a week to London. there is a good road. It forms a gigantic Trains in one hourto Leeuwarden, which artificial coast, impervious to the fury of the contains a population of 27,108. Hotel, tempests which here sweep along the shore, Nieuwe Doelen. Leeuwarden is the capital and against which there existed formerly of the province of Friesland, and contains a no defense. HOtel de Ville, Museum, a Leaning House of Steamers ply daily in 1j hours between Correction, etc. the Helder and the The women of Leeuwarden are celebraIs'andof Texel.-Population, 5000. Here ted for their beauty as well as for their a peculiar breed of sheep (30,000) is raised, ancient manners and costumes, which can the firmness and length of whose wool ren- be seen to great advantage on Friday, der their fleeces of great value. De which is their market-day. They wear Btrg is the most important place on the beautiful lace caps, and gold hoops and island. pendants. The men pride themselves on The traveler may continue from Ilelden having been for many centuries a free and VoL. I. ---A A 5834 GRONINGEN. [HOLLAND.] SOEST, independent people, enacting and being governed by their own laws. Groningen, situated at the junction of the Hunse and Aa, contains 40,165 inhabitants. Hotel, Doelen. This town is handsomely built, and is the principal sea-port in the north of Holland, large vessels coming up the leid-diep from the sea. It contains a university, with a fine Museum of Natural History. The Church of St. Martin is a fine Gothic structure, with a handsome tower, erected during the early part of the 17th century. The Hotel de Ville is a modern structure, situated on a fine square called the Breede Markt. On the Oxen Markt is a statue erected to Guyot, the founder of a deaf-anddumb asylum. A sseet is the principal place in the province of Drenthe, and contains 5500 inhabitants. Near the town, at a place called Rolde, are some curious ancient sepulchres, well worth a visit by the antiquary. Meppel station, a town of 7000 inhabitants. Hotel, Heerenlogement. From this place there is a direct line to Leeuwarden, which must be taken to visit the Pauper Colonies, which lie about three miles from the Steenwijk station. The colonies were founded by Van den Bosch in 1818, the object being not only to rescue some three thousand acres of waste land and render them productive, but to procure a permanent home for nearly five hundred pauper families, educating the children, furnishing medical aid, and making the estate self-supporting. Each family has seven and seven-tenths acres of land, a house, and a cow, with which the head of the family is supposed to support himself. The able-bodied work in the fields; the weaker portion devote their time to cloth-weaving. The seat of the society is at the Hague, and is under the patronage of the King. From Meppel to Zwolle is a distance of 12 miles. Zwolle is a handsome commercial town, situated on the Zwarte Water, and contains 21,443 inhabitants. Hotel, Keizerskroon. The town is surrounded by villas, gardens, and fine walks. On a hill behind Zwolle, now used as a cemetery, once stood the noted convent of St. Agnes, and for sixtyfour years the residence of Thomas h Kempis, author of the celebrated work Imitation of Christ." 534. Twenty minutes by rail, situated on Zuyder-Zee, is the sea-port of Kempen, containing 16,300 inhabitants: it was formerly one of the most flourishing of the Hanse towns. 116tel des Pays-Bas. This is the only town in Holland where the citizens live free of taxation: its former great wealth and numerous bequests render taxation unnecessary. It is consequently the residence of numerous small capitalists and retired officials. Steamers daily to Amsterdam. Returning direct from Zwolle to Amsterdam, one hour from the former is lHardewijk, which contains a population of 5500, and a school for students who intend entering the Dutch East India Service. One hour from Hardewijk is A mersfoort, a town of 13,000 inhabitants, noted as the birthplace of John Van Olden Barneveldt, Grand Pensionary of Holland, one of the greatest men Holland ever produced. He was born in 1549: was embassador to the Court of Queen Elizabeth, to James I., and Henry IV. Ie had the glory of making the treaty with Spain which gave independence to the United Provinces. In 1618 he was condemned by the Calvinistic synod of Dordrecht because he had embraced the Arminian doctrine. The year following he was falsely accused of having delivered his country to the Spaniards, and was condemned to die on the scaffold. One of his two sons, William, designed a plot to avenge his father. The plot was discovered. William escaped, but his innocent brother Ren6 suffered death in consequence. Soest station, near which is Soestdyk, a summer mansion of Prince Henry of the Netherlands. It was presented by the government to William II., when Prince of Orange, in recognition of his great generalship at the battle of Quatre-Bras. A beautiful beech avenue leads from the house, at the bottom of which stands an obelisk, on which it is recorded that a grateful nation has erected this monument to the Prince of Orange. Two cannons taken from the French are placed inside the railing. The village and surrounding country are very pretty, and are the resort of numerous visitors on daily excursions. Utrecht is described in Route No. 144. UTRECHT. [HOLLAND.] EINDHOVEN. ROUTE No. 144. Amsterdam to Co'ogne, via Utrecht and Arn he,. Time, 5 h. 25 m.; fare, 5 thalers 6 sil)ergroschen. The ride to Utrecht is very pleasant; the neat farm-houses, surrounded by gardens blooming with flowers, the canals and rich green fields, the villas and summerhouses of the rich merchants of Amsterdam, the whole quiet, soft, and subdued, create an impression never to be effaced. Utrecht contains 65,062 inhabitants. Hotels are Pay-Bas, II. Hel evue, and I. Kastul Van Antwepen. It is a well-built and agreeable city, and carries on considerable trade by means of rivers and canals. It has been the scene of several important events in history. In the Middle Ages it belonged to the warlike bishops who derived their title from its name. It is situated on the Rhine, which is here reduced to a very insignificant stream, the larger portion of its waters passing into the channel of the Meuse. One of the principal objects of attraction in the city is the Cathedralof St. Martin, the tower of which stands on one side and the church on the other; the nave of the church was carried off by a storm in 1674. The tower is 320 feet high, from the top of which a magnificent view of the whole of Holland may be had. The sexton and his family live halfway up this steeple! The church contains several fine monuments. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Caltherine is also a fine building: it dates from the 14th century, and contains some exquisite carved work. The Mint, University, and 4/useum are the remaining attractions. The University contains nearly 500 students, and has a fine collection of minerals. The ramparts have been formed into a boulevard and planted with trees; that on the side of-the canal forms an agreeable promenade. The Malibaan is a beautiful avenue of lime-trees, half a mile in length and eight rows deep. The trees were so very beautiful that when Louis XIV. was ravaging the country he gave an express order that they should be spared. The house in which the famous treaty of 1713 was signed, which gave peace to Europe, has been pulled down; the treaty of 1579, which separated Holland from Spain, was signed in the University. The first bishop of Utrecht, St. Willibrord, was an Englishman, who left England in the seventh century to convert the heathen. The Pope ordained him bishop, and Charles Martel presented him with the castle of Utrecht as a residence. The Museum of Agricultural Implements was formerly the residence of Louis Bonaparte. Utrecht has a Chamber of Commerce, and large manufactories of woolen, silk, and linen fabrics. It has more spacious squares and fewer canals than most Dutch towns. It is the birthplace of Pope Adrian VI. The gates of the city close at 9 o'clock, but a small fee will open them at any hour. There is English church service here every other Sunday. About six miles from Utrecht is a Moravian colony, well worth a visit. Near it is the celebrated mound erected by 30,000 men, under Marshal Grammont, in memory of the day on which Bonaparte was crowned emperor. The whole army were thirtytwo days in raising it. From Utrecht there is a railway south to Antwerp and to Aix -la- Chapelle via MFaestricht, passing 'S Ilertogenbosch, a fortified town of North Brabant, containing 24,298 inhabitants. Hotel, Goude Leeuu. The town is well built and is traversed by canals, over which are thrown some twenty bridges. It was founded in 1184. The principal edifice is the Church of St. John, the finest ecclesiastical building in Holland, built about the middle of the 14th century; there is also a HItel de Ville. Governor's Hotel, and several philanthropic establishments. 'S Hertogenbosch is noted for the manufacture of musical instruments, pins, and brown linen. Boxtel station, a small town. Railway to Antwerp, Brussels, etc. Eindhoven, situated at the confluence of the Gender and Dommel, is a busy manufacturing town, whence a railway branches off to Venlo, a tiortilied frontier town, noted for its numerous sieges.. 534# ROERMOND. [HOLLAND.] ZtJTPRHEN The line to Maestricht continues, passing Arnhem contains 36,735 inhabitants. Roerond, an ancient town of 9000 inhab- Hotels are II. iellevue, H. des Pays-Bas, itants. The Church of Notre Dame is one and The Sun. This town is prettily situof the finest old buildings in Holland, dat- ated on the Rhine, and is the chief place in ing from the beginning of the 14th century. Guelderland: it contains nothing of imThe Church of St. Christopher is also a portance to detain the traveler, although handsome building, and contains some fine its suburbs are very beautiful. Its fortipictures. fications have been converted into prome-.l3Mestricht (lt Itel du Levrier), capital of nades. the Dutch portion of the province of Lim- The Groote Kerk and the St. Walburq lburg, contains 28,891 inhabitants. It is Roman Catholic Church are the principal a frontier fortress, and one of the strongest buildings. The HI'tel de Ville has some in Europe: it is undermined, and can al- droll carvings on its facade. most instantly be flooded with water. The From Arnhem a road branches off to principal building is the Church of St. Ser- the north to Zutphen and Zwolle; that to vais, the original building dating from the Zutphen. is the direct line to Berlin via 12th century. It contains a Descentfrom Rheine and Osnabriick, and Route 159 to the Cross, by Vandyck. Maestricht, which Bremen, thence by Route 150 to Berlin, exists since the 4th century, has sustained or more direct via Hanover. numerous sieges: it was sacked by the From Arnhem to Zutphen. Time, 42 Duke of Alva in 1576; taken, in 1632, by minutes. A short distance from Arnhem Prince Frederick of Nassau, who ceded it is the town of Velp, much resorted to durto the States of Holland. It was taken by ing the summer by the wealthy classes. the French in 1673 and in 1748, and again Zutphen. Hotel, Keizerskroon. This by the French, under Kleber, in 1794, and fine-looking fortress contains a population remained in their possession until 1815, at of 16,000; it is situated at the junction of which time it was comprised in the King- the Ijssel with the Berckel, and may be dom of the Netherlands. After the separa- reached from Amsterdam by steamer daily tion of Holland from Belgium it was the during the summer. This very ancient object of long and continual disputes be- town in 1202 belonged to the Bishop of tween these two powers; but it was finally Utrecht. It afterward became one of the delivered to the King of Holland in 1839. Hanseatic towns. In 1530 it was taken The Stadhuis contains a library and a by the army of the States, and in 1572 by collection of paintings. Don Frederick of Toledo, son of the Duke There is a Public Park which should be of Alva; by the Prince Maurice in 1591; visited. The great object of attraction, and by the French in 1672. The H6tel de however, is the Subterranean Quarries un- Ville has five handsome facades. der the citadel of St. Pierre, covering the The Protestant Church of'St. Walburga immense space of seventy-eight square is a fine Gothic building, dating from the miles. There are some sixteen thousand early part of the 12th century. Its tower passages from 25 to 50 feet high and 10 was destroyed by lightning in 1600, when feet wide, running at right angles, sup- the present one was erected. It contains ported by pillars 40 feet square, left by numerous monuments of the Counts of the excavators. These quarries were first Zutphen. worked by the Romans, and are exceed- A little to the east of Zutphen the celeingly interesting to visit, but dangerous to brated English general Sir Philip Sidney, examine alone, as numerous persons have who had been elected King of Poland, relost their lives, being unable to find their ceived his death-wound after having deway out. The traveler is now accompa- feated the Spaniards in 1586. Readers of nied by a sworn guide, to whom he pays English history will remember that this one franc fee. The entrance is about three hero, who was prevented from being a sovmiles distant from the hotel. The time eieign by his own sovereign Elizabeth, occupied in the quarries is about one hour; while lying on the ground parched with carriage to the entrance and back, 7 francs. thirst and bleeding from his death-wounds, Railway from Utrecht to Arnhem, 1 h. gave the cup of water brought for him to 30 m. the dying soldier by bis side. 5684 DEVENTER. [HOLLAND.] ZEVENAAR. Twenty-five minutes by express, Deventer is reached. This town is situated on the bank of the Ijssel, and contains 18,125 inhabitants. Hotels, Moriaan and Nieuwe Keizerskroon. Deventer is much celebrated for its ginger-bread, large quantities of which are exported yearly: and, like Geneva gold, tle quality must be kept pure; consequently an officer is appointed by the town to examine the dough before it is baked. The IHotel de Ville contains a valuable picture by Terburg, representing the town council. The Church of St. Luben is a large Gothic building, and contains some fine painted glass windows. The town was besieged by the English, under the Earl of Leicester, in 1586. Numerous cannon-balls, relics of the siege, may be seen in the Berg Kerk. Deventer contains an immense ironfoundry, carpet manufactories, an Academy of Design, also numerous public schools. It was the birthplace of James Gronovius, professor of belles-lettres in the University of Leyden, and a writer of great celebrity. A short distance from Deventer is the town of Appeldoorn, containing 12,000 inhabitants, near which is the Palace of Loo (pronounced low), a favorite summer residence of the present King of Holland, as it was a favorite retreat of William III. It is furnished with great taste and contains numerous works of art. The grounds are extensive and very beautiful. There is a comfortable hotel near the palace. From Deventer the traveler can reach Zwolle by rail or by steamer on the Ijssel. Ten miles south of Arnhem lies the important town of Nijmegen, which may be reached by diligence, crossing the Rhine on a bridge of boats, in 1 h. 45 m., or by the railway from the frontier town of Cleves, in Germany. This fortress and frontier town is situated on the left bank of the Waal, and con tains 23,198 inhabitants. Hotels, Plaats Royal and Ville de Frankfort. This town, which dates from the time of the Romans, was of considerable importance in the 4th century. It was much enlarged and embellished by Charlemagne, but was sacked by the Normans in 881. In the 11th century it became a free and imperial city, and was admitted as one of the Hanse towns. It entered into the Union of Utrecht in 1579, and was taken by the French in 1672 and 1794. Three treaties were signed here during the reign of Louis XIV.-first with Holland, in 1678; second with Spain, in 1678; and third with Germany, in 1679. These treaties put an end to the war of Europe against France. The Raadhuis, or Hotel de Ville, is ornamented with two rows of statues of German emperors; it contains portraits of ambassadors who were present at the signing of the different treaties. One of the chains is here shown with which Martin Schenk Van Nijdek was hanged by the Spaniards when he failed in his attempt to capture the town. The Church of St. Stephen is a curious Gothic building, which dates from the 13th century; it is built in the form of a Greek cross. The choir contains a monument of Catherine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of Egmont. A visit should be made to the Belvedere, a handsome summer-house built on the foundations of a tower which was part of the castle formerly occupied by the Duke of Alva. A little lower down are the public walks, built on the ancient ramparts of the town. Forty minutes from Arnhem, Zevenaar, the last town in Holland, is reached; here the railway divides, that to the left continuing on through Emmerich (see Route 146, Vol. II),Wesel, and Diisseldorf to Cologne; the right crosses the Rhine through Cleves and Geldern to Cologne. Steamers leave Zevenaar daily for Cologne, also going down the Rhine. 534k A TABLE OF COINS, WLTH1 T.IjECOMPARATIVE, VAT.UE IN GOLI) AND SILVER OF THE UNITED STATIE.A C~OINS OF GxRE AT BRITAiNq. - GERMAN COLma-continued. Sovereign..........4 S3 Florin (of Bavaria and Ba-' 40 llalfSovereign........ 41 50 denm, 60 Kireutzers......j crownt...... 12 Florin (of Austria), 100) 49 h1alf Crown..(....re..t.e........I Florin, or two Shillings.... 46 Five Gulden (of lBaden)... 2 6 half Florin, or sue Shilling. - 3 l~'x: Dollar (of Austria). 1.. Sixp~nce..I......... ii 51) Fourpence........... 7 66 112 uon P~enny (nearly). 2 1s COINS OF FRANCE. M1arc (16 Hamburg llrillings) ~ Naoen(obeI7 7 The very numerous smiall Napoleon.a..........V S coins- of tire German Stales, half Napoleon........1 02 50 whether in krentzers, silver Quarter Napoleon...... 1. groocliens, stivers, or sbil-I Five Francs......... 9 lirngs, may be calculaled by~ One Franc......... 19 noting tile value of tlae larger Half Franc (fifty Centimes). 9 5') ie. Twenty Centinmes....... 3 901 ices. FITLY Ten Centimei (two Sons)... 1 9 5 CosOFTA. Five Centhuea (one SonI)...98 Twenty Lira....(Sardinia) 3 85 Ten Lira......do. 1 92 5I COINa OF SrAaN. Five Lira......do. 96 5.) Doubloon...........13 Cue iLira......do. 19 Half Doubloon........ 8 'half Lira......do. 9 5!' Quarter Doubloon.......4 Quarter Lira.....do. 4 75 Isabelino...........5 Sequin.......(Tuscany) 2 30 Duro.............1 Scndi, or- ton Paula. do. 1 It) Medlo Duro,.......... 50 Five Pauls.....do. 55 Peseta.......... 21) Two Paulsi.....do. 22 Dos Reals... 10 Paul........do. it Real.............. 5 Half Paul......do. 5 51) Doa Cuartos.......... 2 Crazks.......do. 15 Cuarto............. 1 Quattrino..... do. Ochavo.............53 '(en Scudi.......(Rome) 10 Scudi.........do. 1 The COINS OF SWITZERL.AND Paul.........do. 10 are the same ats France, 'Grosso........do. 5 viz., Fraeswaand Gemnsime Bdloques....... do. 1 Frepcha Napoleon........ 8 S55 HalfBirloques do. 5(1 F Ive Francs.......... 95 Oncia of 6 Du tcats.. (Naples) 4 I91 Two Francs......... 838 Oncia, of 3 Dticats.. do. 2 45 60 One Franc.......... 19 Piastra. or 12 Carlins' do. 5 I al f Franc.......... 9 50 Ducate, or 10 Carlina. do. St 501 Twenty Centimes.. ii 90 I Ilaf Pi1astra.....do. 4T N0 Ten Centimes........ 1 95 Carlino, or 10 Grani. do. S 1-5 The word Isleletiajis on the Half Carlino, or 5 d. I41 obverse. Gran!i.. 4 - Grano........ do. 75 COINS' OF TILE GEIRMAN STATES AND) HOLLAND CISoF, RUSSIA. D~ouble Frederick..S.... Imperial...........4 5 Frederick......4 Five Rubles.........4 Ten Guilders.4..Ruble.............. S Fi ve Guil1dera.3........2 Teni Zloty..........1 14 One G;uider (20, Stiver4 Ten Copecks......... S.....n.......fFieCpca4 Double D~ucat........... 4 56 D ncat (of Bavaria).......2 28 COINS oF PUKE ANEYT Crown of Baddn.1..... 10 Twenty Piastres....... I Thaler (of Saxony) 1..... Pastre........... 5 Mark............. 25 Five Plains........I.C5 (100 P1fennigs=1 Mlark) IBelgium coin is tbe samne as Ten rhaiers (of Brunswick).8 France, viz., Franca and CenTen Thalers (of ha sn over) S. limes. Tisil table Is for lie arre (if tratvclers, not mercianuts, as exchange will be forurd to virry considler. ably. If naore is received than heic expressed, you are tire gainer by excirange; if inot, yeol nie tire 'oser. I ono-M04- I I INDEX. A. Aabogen,1468. Aaby, 1334. Aadal, 1427. Aagaard, 1332. Aak, 1397. Aakirkeby, 1346. Aalborg, 1329. -- o Nibe and Logstor, 1334. Aalen, 1372. Aalesuud, 1397, 1428. Aalum, 1328. Aamot, 1403. Aarau, 1077. Aarburg, 1077. Aardal, 1416. Aarhuns, 1327. to Viborg, 1336. Aarup, 1345. Aasheim, 1369. Abano, 807. Abbeville, 298. Abbey Craig, 142. Abbey of Konigsfeld, 1078. Abbotsford, 160. Aberdeen, 135. Aberfeldy, 147. Aberfoyle, 142. Abergavenny, 282. Abergeldie, 137. Abergele, 248. Aberystwith, 280. -- to Caermarthen, Pembroke, Tenby, Swansea, Cardiff, and Newport, 279. Abo, 1484. Aboo Simbel, 944. Aboo Sir, 944. Aboyne, 137. Abrantes, 1279. Abu Gaush,956. Abydos, Ruins of, 938. Achenkirch, 1175. Achensee, 1175. Achenwald, 1176. Achselnmannstein, 1177. Aci Reale, 905. Acquabuona, 1173. Acre, or Akkai.980. Adare, 65. Adelsberg, 731, 751. - Cave of, 731. --- Route from Panis, 34. Advice to Travellers,Introduction, xiii et seq. 2Egina, Island of, 995. Agen, 419. Agents, Diplomatic and Consular, xxi-xxiv. Aggershuns, Castle of, 1361. Aggersuud, 1332. Aghada, 50. Agnesberg, 1433. Agre, 1369. Aguilar de Campos, 1200. Aibling, 1145. Aigle, 1111. Aigle-les-Bains: Route from Paris, 34. Aiguebelle, 477, 744. Aiguilles de Varens, 1046. Aiguilles du Gouter, 1046. Ailsa Craig, 128. Ain Mousa, Desert of Suez, 945. Airolo, 1104. Aix, 469. Aix-la-Chapelle, 585. to Paris, 587. Route from Paris, 34. Aix-les-Bains, 476, 744. -- Route from Paris, 34. Akersvass Locks, 1462. Ala, 1156. Aland Islands, the, 1484. Alas, 455. - to Nimes, 453. Alassio, 743. Alatri, 871. Albacete, 1258. Albaek, 1335. Albano, 868. Albany, 155. Albenga, 743. Albeuve, 1108. Albula, Pass of, 1136. Alcacoras, 1289. Alcala de Henares, 1275. Alcazar de San Juau, 1230. Alceda, 1200. Alcoy, 1263. Alencon, 399. Alessandria, 797. Alexandretta, 981. Alexandria, Egypt, 919. -- to Cairo, 921. - Route from London, 29; from Paris, 34. Italy, 797. Algeciras, 1242. Algeria, 473. Algiers, boundaries of, steamers to the, 473. Route from Paris, 34. Alhama de Aragon, 1274. Alicante, 1259. Alkmaar, 534 3-8. Allariz, 1205. Allerupbanker, 1330. Allinge, 1347. Almaden, 1277. Almagro, 1277. Almansa, 1259. Almeirim, 1279. Almeria, 1257. I iI I I 2 INDEX. Almindingen, 1346. Alpnach, 1086. Alsten, Island of, 1380. Altaba, Falls of, 1196. Alt-Buda, near Pesth, 736. Alten, 1390. Alten Fjord, the, 13S4. Altenburg, 629. Altesula, Island of, 1387. Altorf, 1103. Alveneu, Baths of, 1136. Alverstrommen, 1416. Alvesta, 1440,1472. Amager, Island of, 129S. Amat, 1469. Amalfi, 883. Amalienborg, 1298. Amathonte, 981 3-5. Amathus, Ruins of, 981 4-5. Amble, 1415. Amberieu, 744. Ambleside, 254. Amboise, 403. Ambras, Castle of, 1145. Amden, 1118. Amersfoort, 534 4-8. Amesbury, 283. Amiens, 298. - Route from Paris, 34. Amphion-les-Bains, 1045. Amphissa, or Salona,999. Amsteg, 1103. Amsterdam, 534. -- to Cologne, via Utrecht and Arnhem, 534 5-8. Route from London, 29; from Paris, 34. Anadouli-Hissar (Castle of Asia), 989. Anadonli-Kavak, 988. Anclam, 605. Ancona, 822. to Alexandria, via Brindiei, S22. -- to Brindisi, 823. -- to Genoa, 823. -- to Naples, 874. to Smyrna, via Brindisi, Corfu, and Syra, 823. to Trieste, via Venice, 823. -- to Trieste, 823. Route from Paris, 34. Andeer, 746. Andermatt, 1104. Andermatten, 1115. Andernach, 682. Andreasberg, 592. Andritsena, 1001. Andujar, 1231. Angers, 404. Angouleme, 410. An namoe, 76. Annan, 169. Annweiler, 675. Antequera, 1250. Antibes, 742. Antrim, 94. Antwerp, 513. - to Rotterdam, 515, 527. -- Route from London, 29; from Paris, 34. Aosta, 797, 1052. -- to St. Bernard, 797. Apennines, the, 823. Appeldoorn, 534 7-8. Appenzell, Canton of, 1123. Aquila, 874. Arachova, 999. Aranjuez, 1230. Arbedo, 1105. A rboga, 1476. Arbroath, 179. Arcachon, 416. Arco, 750,1156. Arco Felice, 890. Ardetz, 1126. Ardimon, 9S1 4-5. Ardlin, 143. Ardmore, 56. Ardrishaig, 117. Ardtornish Castle, 119. Arendal, 1418. Arevalo, 1210. Arezzo, 839. A rgelbs, 432. Argentiere, 1054. Argos, 996. Arklow, 74. Arles, 469. -- Route fiom Paris, 34. Arlon, 518. Armagh, 91. Arnaout-Keni, 987. Arnhem, 534 6-8. Arona, 746, 791, 797. -to Genoa, 797; to Milan, 740, 791. from Paris, via Dijon, 34. Arran, Island of, 116. Arras, 498. Arrizafa, 1232. Arstad, 1381. Artenay, 402. Arth, or Art, 1096. Arvika, 1468. Asaa, 1330. Aschlerbach, 1168. Asiatic shore, the, 988. Ask, 1427. Askeaton, 64. Asker, 1405. Assen, 534 4-8. Asseus, 1345. Assioot, or Sioot, 937. Assisi, 840. Assonan, 942. Astorga, 1203. Ateca, 1274. Ateste, 807. Athenry, 83. Athens: History, Hotels, Palace, 993; Acrop. olis, Temple of Victory, Parthenon, 994; Erechtheilm, Areopagus, the Pnyx, Tower of the Winds, Lantern of Demosthenes, Arch of Hadrian, Temple of Jupiter Olym. pus, 995: Theatre of Bacchus, Temple of Theseus, Mount Lycabettus, Mount Pentelicus, Excursion to Marathon, 995. Athens: Route from London, 29; from Paris, 34. to Corinth, 995. to Missolonghi, 997. to Patras, 1000. Athens, United States, 1555. Athlone, 83. Atna, 1369. Atteras, 1473. Atzwang, 749,1153. Aubonne, 1039. Auch, 144, 446. Auchinleck, 167. INDEX. 3 Augsburg: Hotels, Bishop's Palace, Allgeineine Zeitung, 663; Cathedral, Castle of Hohenschwangau, 663, 664. Augsburg to Ulm, 664. -- Route from Paris, 34. Auma, 1370. Aune, 1431. Aune i Opdal, 1396. Aunede, hamlet of, 1343. Auray, 406. Aurland, 1417. Aussig, 723. Austberg i Remnebo, 1396. Austerlitz, 720. Australia, routes to, 1574. Austrian Empire, the, 704-740. Av.ebury, 268. Aveiro, 1290. Avenza, 809. Avezzano, 874. Avignon, 468. to Vaucluse, 469. - Route from Paris, 34. Avila, 1210. Avis, 1156. Avranches, 395. Ay, 490. Ayr, 127. B. Baalbec, 977, 978. - to Beyrout, 978. to the Cedars, 979. Babelsberg, 576. Bacharach, 6S8. Badajos, 1278. Baden, Austria: Route from Paris, 34. Switzerland: Route from Paris, 34. - Baths of, Switzerland, 716. Baden-Baden, 699. - from Heidelberg, 69!). Route from Paris, 34. Badstuen, 1324. Baeverelvdal, 1422. Baeza, 1231. Baffa, 981 3-5. Bagdtche-Keni, 988. Bagenalstown, 73. Bagndres de Bigorre, 429. — R Route from Paris, 34. Bagneres de Luchon: Route from Paris, 35. Baholm, 1415. Baise, Bay of, 890. Bailen, 1231. Bak, 1431. Baktchissarai, 1540. --- to Simpheropol, 1541. Balaklava, 1539. Bald Mountain, 1176. Ballatler, 137. Ballatrich 137. Ballenstedt, 592. Ballerup, 1344. Ballinamona, 55. Ballinasloe, 83. Ballinrobe, 86. Ballybay, 94. Ballyhale, 71. Ballyshannon, 88. Balmoral, 137. Balta, 1535. Balta-Liman, 988. Baltimore, 1676. Bamberg, 642. Route from Paris, 35. Banchory, 136. Bandaks Vand, lake, 1426. Bandholm, 1343. Bandon, 53. Banff, 135. Bangor-Menai Bridge, 249. Banias, or Caesarea Philippi, 975. Bankers, Reliable, Introduction, xv. Bannockburn, 139,176. Bantry, 54. Barcelona, 1266. - Route from London,29; from Paris, 35. Bareges, 437. Barenboden, or "Bears' Domain," 1162. Bari, 824, 894. Barkald, 1370. Bar-le-Duc, 490. Barletta, 824. Barmouth, 279. Barnstaple, 285. Barweis, 1166. Basle, 673,1069. - Routes from, 1070. Route from London,29; from Paris, 35. Basodino, the, 1115. Bass Rock, 164. Basserthwaite Lake, 258. Bath, 268. - Route from Paris, 35. Baths of Oblades, 1160. of Pfaffers, 1118. - - of St. Gervais, 1046. -- of Saxe, 1052. -- of Schalders, 1152. - of Vahrn, 1152. Battaglia, 807. Battle, 227. Bautasteen, 1367. Bavaria, 648. Baveno, Italy, 791. Switzerland, 1106. Bayeux, 394. Bayfield, 1568. Bayonne, 417. - Route from Paris, 35. Baza, 1257. Bazeilles, 496. Beauly, 129. Beaune, 467. Bebek, 987. Beckenried, 1101. Bedford, 234. Beigh, 64. Belalcazar, 1278. Belfast, 92. to Dublin, 91. - to Glasgow, London, and Liverpool, 100. - Route from London, 29. - Route from Paris, 35. Belfort, 480. - - Route from Paris, 85. Belgirate, 746,991. Belgium, 501-523. Belgrad, 604. Belgrade, 737. Bel agio, 789. Bellalp, the, 1114. Bellano, 789. Bellegarde, 1029. Bellinzona, 747,1101,1105. 4 INDEX. Bellpuig, 1271. Belluno, 734,1173. Belmez, 1232. Benavente, 1208. Benevento, 874. Bengstfors, 1435. Bencarlo, 1264. Beni-Hassan, 'ombs of, 936. Benisooef, 935. B6rard, 1055. Berg, 1465. Berg Isel, 1150. Bergamo, 779. -- to Lecco on Lake Como, 7Sf Berge i Roldal, 1409. Bergen, Sweden, 1412. - Germany, 601. Bergen-op-Zoom, 527. Bergun, 1136. Beria Vergi, Mines of, 1258. Berlin, 561-573; Hotel, Unter den Linden, Statue of Frederick the Great, New Stadt, 561; Sights of, including Galleries, Museums, etc., 562-568: University, Library, Palaces, etc., 569: Cathedrals, Churches, Statues, etc., 570, 571; Bankers and Tradesmen, 572; Excursions, 573. Berlin to Charlotten burg, 573. Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35. - to Potsdam and Sans Souci, 573. - to Hamburg, 517, 595. - to Wittenberig, 576. -- to Hanover, 577. - to Paris, 576, 587. - to Bremen, 601. -- to Danzig, 603, 606. - to Tilsit, 608. - to Leipzig, 615. - to Diisseldorf, 617. --- to Breslau, 629. - to Dresden, 632. Bernardino Route, the, 747. Bernay, 392. Berne, 1072. Route from Paris, 35. - Routes from, 1073. Bernina, 1127. Berwick-upon-Tweed, 166, 239. Besaker, 1379. Besancon, 492. Bethel Ruins of, 972. Bethlehem, 967. -- Route from Paris, 35. Beverwijk, 534 2-3. Bex, 1111. -- Route from Paris, 35. Beycheville, 416. Bey-Kos, 989. Beyrout, 979,982. - to Constantinople, 981. - Route from Paris, 35. Beziers, 446. Biarritz, 418. Route from Paris, 35. Biasca,1105. Biella, 792. Bienne, 1068. Bilbao, 1196. Billesholm, 1472. Billingsfors, 1435. Bingen on the Rhine,690. Route from Paris, 35. Birkeude, 1314. Birkenhead, 246. Birmingham, 245. Route from Paris, 35. Bissenhofen to Augsburg, 1167. Bjerjets Kro, 1333. Bjerkaker, 1396. Bjernede, 1314. Bj berg, 1404. Bjirgen, 1372. Blaaflaten, 1402. Blair-Athol, 132. Blanca, 1258. Blankenburg, 592. Blarney, 51. Blaye, 415. Blea Tarn, 256. Bleiberg, 1181. Blenheim, 243. Blois, 403. Route from Paris, 35. - to Chateau de Valencay, 403. to ChAteau de Chaumont, 403. Bloomingdale, 1552. Bludenz, 1165. Bluman, 1153. Bobadilli, 1249. Bodio, 1105. BodS, 1377, 1379,13S1. Bolladore, 1163. Bollar, 1326. Bolmen, Lake, 1440. Bologna, 815. - Route from Paris, 35. to Ancona, 818. -- to Brindisi, 818. to Florence, 818. - to Pistoia, 818. Bolstad6ren i Vos, 1412. Boltigen, 1109. Bolton's Landing, 1557. Bomarsund, 14S4. Bombay: Route from London, 29; frl,,m Paris,35. Bonn, 680. Route from Paris, 35. Bonneville, 1046. Boppard, 687. Borars, 1459. Borcette, 586. Bordeaux: Commerce, 412; Wine-cellar.ls nd Wine, 413. Route from Paris, 35. Various Routes from, 416. Bordighera, 742,808. Boren Lake, 1465. Borghetto, 841. Borgrholm, 1482. Borgo San Donino, 813. BWrknp, 1326. Bormio, Baths of, 1163. - Route from Paris, 35. Bornholm, Island of, 1346. Borringe, 1470. Borromean Islands, 790. Bosca, 1173. Bosekop, 1390. Boston, England, 238. -- United States, 1561. Bothwell Castle, 112. Botzen, 1153, 1168. Boulogne (sur Mer), 296. --- Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35. INDEX. 6 Bourboule, 452. Bourg, 414, 476. Bourg St. Maurice, 1138. Bourges, 443. Bouveret, 1044. Bovernier, 1056. Bowness, 253. Boxtel, 534 5-8. Boyle, 79. Boyne, the River, 92. Braagerland, 1317. Bradford, 264. Bradford-on-Avon, 28S. Braemar, 13S. Braendhangen i Dovre, 1395. Brageri, 1406. Bramminge, 1338. Brandenburg, 587. Branneuburg, 1145. Branuelas, 1203. Branzall, 1155. Braubach, 687. Braunau, 727. Bray, 76. Brechim, 1SO. Brecon, 276. Bred, 1345. Breda, 528. Bredevangen i Sels, 1394. Bregentved, 1341. Bregenz, 1164, 1167, 1169, -- Route from Paris, 35. Breistolen, 1404. Bremen, 601. -- Route from Paris, 35. Brenubiichl, 1159. Brenner, 1151. Brennerbad, 1151. Brenner Pass, the, 749,1150. Breno, 805. Brescia, 777, 804. -- to Pavia, 804. to Tirano, 805. Breslau, 609. - to Cracow, 610. Bressay Island, 1348. Brest, 400. --- Route from Paris, 35. Breuil, 1054. Brevent, the, 1050. Bridge of Allan, 142. Brieg, 745,1064. Briel, 527. Brienz, 1084. -- Route from Paris, 35. Brighton, 219. --- Route from Paris. 35. Brimslof, 1440. Brindisi, 824. --- fom Venice, 769. - to Alexandria, 824. - to Greece, 824. - to Venice and Trieste, 824. - to Genoa, 824. - to Otranto, 824. --- Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35. Bristol, 268. --- to Chepstow, Monmouth, Hereford, Ludlow, Shrewsbury, and Chester, 272. --- to Gloucester, Cheltenham, Great Malvern, and Worcester, 271. British America, 1557-1559, 1564-1567. Brittany, 397. Brixen, 749, 1152,1179. Brixlegg, 1145. Broadford, 149. Broek, 534 2-8. Brocken, 592. Brodenbach, 686. Brodick, 116. Broek, 532. Brohl, 682. Bronosund, 1380. Brooklyn. 1551. Brost, 1332. Brothiiusi, 1109. Briick, 750,1171. Bruges, 520. ---- to Ostend, 521. Route from Paris, 35. Brngg, 1078. Bruuuau, 1182. Brunecken, 1180. Brunig Pass, the, 1085. BrMiun, 719. Brunnen, 1102. Brunswick, the City of, 589. - to Magdebulr, 590. - the Duchy of, 588. - Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35. Brusio, 1128. Brussels, 505-511. - to Luxembourg, 517. Wateiloo, 511. - to Calais, 522. - to Paris, 523. Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35. Bruton, 290. Bryn, 1367. Bucharest: Routes from Paris, 35. Buchau, 1175. Buchs, 1171. Buda, near Pesth,735. Buffalo, 1564. Builth, 276. Bulbjerg Cliff, 1332. Bulle, 1108. Bundoran, 89. Burgeis, 1161. Burgos, 1197. - Route from Paris, 35. Burgundy Wines, 458. BurUtisland, 157. Bury St. Edmund's, 233. Busdongo, 1202. Bush-mills, 98. Buttevant, 62. Buxton, 247. Buyuk-Dere, 988. Bygdin Lake, 1423. Bygholm Veile, 1333. Byrhe i Nordre Fron, 1394. Bystr6m, 1458. C. Cadenabbia, 791, 1107. Cadenazzo, 747. Cadiz, 1242. -- Route from Paris, 35. Caen, 393. - to Havre, 394. -to Cherbourg, 394. - Route from Paris, 35. Caermarthen, 277. Caernarvon, 279. 6 INDEX. Caesarea, 980. Ceesarea Philippi, 972. Cabir, 66. Cahors, 445. Cairo: Hotels, 921; Citadel, Massacre of the Mamelukes, 923; Mosques, 923; Palaces, Baths, Festivals, 924; Heliopolis, Shoobra, 925; Old Cairo, 926; Pyramids, 926-930; Sphinx, 928; Temple of Serapis, 930. Cairo to Tor, via Suez, 945. - to Sinai, 946. to Jerusalem, via El Arish, 950. Route from Paris, 35. Calais, 296. - Route from England, 29,1572; from Paris, 36. Calandaberg, 1119. Calatayud, 1274. Calaveras big trees, the, 1571,1572. Calcutta: Route from London, 29; fiom Paris, 36. Caldwell, 1557. Caldwell's Landing, 1553. Caledon, 95. Caledonian Canal, 125. California, 1571; routes from, 1572. Callan, 72. Callander, 133. Calmar, 14S2. Cambrai, 497. Cambridge: Colleges of the University, Fitzwilliam Museum, Observatory and Botanical Gardens, Churches, etc., 232. - Route from Paris, 36. Campo Dolcino, 747, 790. Campo Formio, 733. Canada, 1557-1559, 1564-1567. Canal de Conde, 523. Canal of Arsinoe, 945. Cannes, 474. -- Route from Paris, 36. Cannstadt, Mineral Baths, 666. - Route from Paris, 36. Cantara, 981 3-5. Canterbury, 229. Cantine de Proz, 1056. Cape of Good Hope: Route from London, 29. Cape Parthenike, 1539. Capernaum, 975. Capo di Ponte, 1173. Cappoquin, 57. Capri, 882. Capua, 872. Capuchin Convent, 1149,1160. Carcassone, 422. Cardiff, 274. Carentan, 396. Carlisle, 252. - Route from Paris, 36. Carlow, 73. Carlsbad, 639. to Vienna, 640. - Rouqte from Paris, 36. Carlsborg, 1460. Carlscrona, 1482. Carlsiamn, 1482. Carlsrnhe, 700. - Route from Paris, 36. Carlstad, 1469. Carmagnola, 796. Carmona, 1232. Carpi, 807. Carrickfergns, 94. Carrick-on-Shannon, 88. Carrick-on-Suir, 66. Carrigadrohid, 54. Carrir, 1205. Cars, Sleeping, for Travelers, xx. Carstairs, 169. Cartagena, 1258. Casa Branca, 1288. Casablanca, 1248. Casaccia, 1129. Caserta, 872. Cashel, 67. Cassel, 618. Route from Paris, 36. Castallan Fountain, 999. Castasegna, 1129. Castebruth, 1153. Castejon, 1276. Castel Bolognese to Ravenna, 819. Pietro, Bologna, 818. Castelbell, 1167. Castellon, 1264. Castillejo, 1230. Castle of Gripsholm, 1483. Castlebar, 85. Castle-Blayney, 94. Castle-Douglas, 174. Castledermot, 74. Castlereagh, 85. Castricum, 534 2-8. Castuera, 1278. Catania, 905. Cataracts of Egypt, 943. Caterham, 227. Catorraja, 1260. Catskill, 1555. Catskill Mountains, the, 1554. Cautcrets, 433-435. Cavan, 90. Cave Hill, 93. Cefalu, 902. Celle, 640. Ceneda, 1173. Cerda, 902. Certaldo, 843. Cervera, 1271. Cesena, 821. Cette, 446. -- Route from Paris, 36. Chablis. 458. Chveronea, 1000. Chalcis, 1000. Chalon-sur-Saune, 467. Route from Paris, 36. Chalons-sur-Marne, 490. -- Route from Paris, 36. Chambery, 477. Chambrelien, 1115. Chalnounix, 1046. Route from London, 29; from Paris, 36. Champagne Wines, 481-489. Chamlptoce, 406. Chantilly, 299. Charenton, 457, 741. Charleroi, 497. - Route from Paris, 36. Charleston, 1578. Charleville, Ireland, 63. -- France, 495. Charlottenburg, 1468. Charlottenlund, 1318. Chartres, 399. ChAteau Chaumont, 403. INDEX. 7 Chateau Chenanceau, 404. - d'Oex, 1110. - de Ponsas, 467. de Prangins, 1038. - Enseck, 726. Margaux, 415. of Steen, 612. - Thierry, 481. ChAteaulroux, 444. Chttel-Guyon, 450. Chatellerault, 407. Chatham, 228. Chatillon, 1064. Chatsworth, 247. - Route from Paris, 36. Chanmont, 479, 1068. Cheitan Akindisi (Satan's Current), 988. Chelmsford, 230. Cheltenham, 273. Chemnitz, 647. Chepstow, 275. Cherbourg, 397. - - Route from Paris, 36. Chermontane, 1057. Chersonesus, 1538. Chester, 246. E-aton Iall, 246. Chexbres, 1070. Chiamut, 1132. Chiavari, 809. Chiavenna, 747, 790. Chicago, 1567. Chillon, Castle of, 1043. China, Routes to, 1574. Chinchilla, 1258. Chippis, Valley of, 1059. Chiselhurst, 226. Chiusi, 845. Choisy-le-Roy, 402. Christiania: Hotels, Castle of Aggershuus, 1360; Trefoldigheds-kirke, Palace, Museum of Northern Antiquities, University, National Gallery of Paintings, Theatre, Carioles, Oscar's Hall, Froger - Aasen, 1362; Environs of, 1365. Christiania to Bergen, 1350, 1367,1399. to Odnaes, 1350. - to Trondhjem, 1350. - to Molde, 1350,1367,1397. -- to Stockholm, 1351. - Route frot London, 29; from Paris, 36. Christiansand, 1366,1418. Christiansborg, 1301. Christianshavn, 1298. Christianssnede, Manor of, 1343. Christianstad, 1439. Christiansund, 1429. Christinehamn, 1469. Chur, 1169, 1171. Churburg, Castle of, 1161. Churwalden, 760. Cilli, 750. Cincinnati, 1569. Ciney, 517. Citrea, 981 3-5. Citta Vecchia, 914. Ciudad Real, 1277. Ciudad Rodrigo, 1209. Civita Vecchia, 842. ---- to Rome, 843. Civray, 410. Cladich, 147. Clapham, 263. Clare-Galway, 87. Clarens, 745,1042. - Route from Paris, 36. Clausholm, 1328. Clavadel, Baths of, 1137. Clermont Ferraud, 451. Clifden, 84. Cliffony, 89. Clifton, 269. Cloggnitz, 750. Clonrnacnoise, SO. Clonmel, 66. Cloyne, 50. Cluses, 1046. Coblentz, 683. - Route from Paris, 36. Cochem, 685. Cockermouth, 260. Cognac, 410. Cogoletto, 443. Cohoes, 1556. Coimbra, 1290. Coins, Tables of, 535, 1003, 1580. Coire, 1119. -- to Colico (and Milan), over the Splugen, 746. - to Magadino over the Bernardino, 747. R-oate from Paris, 36. Colchester, 231. Col de Balme, 1054. - Bonhomme, 1052. Cheville, 1057. Fen6tre, 1057. -- Torrent, 1059. a- Dent de Jaman, 1108. - la Forclaz, 1046. Col des Montets, 1054. Cold Spring, 1554. Coldstream, 162. Coleraine, 94, 98. Colfax, 1571. Colico, 747, 790,1164. -- to Como, 747. - Route from Paris, 36. Collonges Station, 1030. Colnmar, 679. Cologne, 582. - to Frankfort, Bonn, Coblentz, 585. - to Mainz, Aix-la-Chapelle, Paris, 585. Route from London, 29; from Paris, 36. Colombes, 386. Como, Lake of, 787. to Lake Maggiore, 790. - Route from London, 29; from Paris, 36. Compilgne, 496. - Route from Paris, 36. Comrie, 145. Comstock Lode, 1570. Concise, 1067. Conegliano, 1173. Coney Island Excursions, 1548. Cong, 86. Coniston, 256. Constance, 673. - Route fromLondon, 30; from Paris, 36. Constantinople: Hotels, Seraglio, Sublime Porte, 984; Bosphorns, Mosques of St. Sophia, Suleiman, Sultan Achmed, Mohammed II., Hippodrome, 985; Obelisk of Theodosius, the Burned Pillar, Aqueduct, Bazars, Cemeteries, 986; Caiques, Valet de Place, the Dogs, Excursions, 987. i 8 INDEX. Constantinople, Steamers from, 989. - to Odessa, 989. to Vienna, 989. to the Crimea, 989. - to Genoa, 990. - Route from London, 30; from Paris, 36. Consular and Diplomatic Agents, xxi-xxiv. Contamines-sur-Arve, 1045. Con they, 1058. Convamore, 58. Convent of the Capuchins, 1160. Convent of Seben, 1152. Conway, 249. Cook, Son, & Jenkins's Arrangements for Travelers, xxvii. Copenhagen: Streets, Carriages, Amalienborg, 1297, 1298; Rosenborg Castle, 1299 -1301; Christiansborg, Chambers of Parliament, Palace of Frederiksborg, 1301; Thorwaldsen's Museum, 1302-1300; Prindsens Palais, Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Northern Antiquities, 1306-1309; Cathedral and Churches, 1309; Arsenal, Exchange, Royal Library, and Theatres, 1310,1311; Ixcursions from, 1311,1312. Copenhagen to Charlottenlund and Deer Park, 1318. to Lyngby, 1320. to Kallundborg, 1339. - to KjSge, 1340. to Faxe, 1343. to Frederikssand, 1344. to the Island of Bornholm, 1346. - to the Faroie Islands, 1348. Route from London, 30; from Paris, 36. Copper Harbor, 1568. Coppet, 1038. Cordova, 1231,1248. - Route fiom Paris, 36. Corinth, 997. Cork, 50. - to London, Liverpool, and Glasgow, 100. Route from Paris, 36. Cornigliano, 743. Cornwall Landing, 1554. Coron, 1001. Corsoer, 1312,1314. Cortina d'Ampezzo, 1172. Cortona, 839. Cornna,1206. Corycian Cave, 999. Cosenza, 892. Coslin, 604. Cossonay, 1067. C6te d'Or, 458. Cotignola, 819. Courmayeur, 1052. Courtrai, 499, 522. Coutances, 395. Contras, 412. Cove, 82. Coventry, 240. Cowes, 226. - Route from Paris, 36. Cracow, 610. -- to Warsaw, 612. --- to Vienna, 614. -- Route from Paris, 36. Craigmillar Castle, 171. Cramont, 1052. ('rathie, 137. Crato, 1279. Crecy, 298. Credo Tunnel, 1030. CremonTa, S04. Creuznach, 691. Crewe, 240. Crieff, 145. Crimea, the, 1536. from Constantinople, 989. Crinan Canal, 117. Cronstadt, 1519. Crow's Nest, 1554. Croydon, 219. Cuenca, 1229. Cueta, 1247. Cullera, 1263. Cnlloden, 131. Cully, 1041. Culoz to Geneva, 1029. Cum ne, 890. Cnmrbray, Islands of, 115. Cnuneo, 796. Cushlendun, 99. Cstrin, (606. Cyprus, Island of, 981 1-5. i - Route from Paris, 36. D. Dabod, 944. Daglsen, 1476. Dagmersellen, 1077. Dalaas, 1165. Dalbeattie, 174. Dalkeith, 158. Dais Fjord, the, 1429. Dalsands Canal, the, 1435. Dalseidet i Haus, 1412. Damascus: Hotels, Cook-shops, Synagogues, Convents, Rivers Abana and Pharpar, 976; the Great Mosque, the Castle, St. Paul's House, Abd el Kader, 976. Damascus to Baalbec, 977. --- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 36. Danzig, 604. --- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 36. Dardanelles, the, 983. -- Route from Paris, 37. Dargle, the, 70. Darnmstadt, 696. - to Heidelberg, 697. -- Route from Paris, 37. Dartmouth, 271. Davlia, 1000. Davos am Platz, 1137. Davos-Dirfii, 1137. Dax, 417. Dead Sea, the, 969. Deepdene, 226 1-4. Deer Park, 1318,1458. Delft, 530. Delphi, or Castri, 999. Denbigh, 248. Denia, 1263. Denmark, 1293-1349. Dent d'Ouch, 1044. Derby, 234. Derrynane, 82. Dervio, 789. Derwentwater, 257. Desenzano, 777. Deserts of Suez and Arabia, 945-952. Dessan, 617. Detniold, 594. INDEX. 9 Detroit, 1567. Devenish Island. 91. Devens Salt Mines, 1111. Deventer, 534 7-S. Devil's Bridge, 1103. Diamond Island, 1557. Diedenhofen, 493. Dieppe, 300, 3S9. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Dijon, 45S. -- Route from Paris, 37. Dimmelsvik, 1420. Dinant, 517. Dinuwall, 129. Dipfomatic and Consular Agents, xxi-xxiv. Dissentis, 1132. Dives, 393. Divonne, 1038. Djurgarden, 1458. Dobb's Ferry, 1553. Dol, 396. D6le, 47S, 1038. -- Route from Paris, 37. Dolgelly, 144. Dollar, 140. Dslsach, 1180. Dombaas, 1395,1399. Domo d'Ossola, 746. -- Route from Paris, 37. Domremy, 491. Don Alvaro, 1278. Don Benito, 1278. Don Roderic, Castle of, 1197. Donaustaf, 631. Doncaster, 234. Donchery, 496. Donegal, 89. Dorchester, 286. Dordrecht, or Dort, 528. Dorking, 227, 287. Dornbuirn, 1165. Dortmund, 580. Douai, 498. Doune, 143. Dover, 229. --- Route from London, 30, 290; from Paris, 37. Dovre Fjeld, 1395. Downpatrick, 97. Drachenfels, 681. Drammen, 1406. Draxholm, Castle of, 1340. Dresden: Hotels, American Club, 633; Royal Palace, 634; Picture-gallery and its Gems, 635; the Zwinger, Museum of Natural History, and Military Museum, 636; Grand Opera-house, 636; Japanese Palace and the Franenkirche, 636; Manufactures, Bankers, and Tradesmen, 637, 638; Excursions, 638. Dresden to Frankfort, 619. - to Carlsbad, 639. to Schwarzenburg, 646. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Drevsj6hytte, 1369. Driva, Valley of the, 1396. Drivstuen i Opdal, 1396. Drobakl, 1417. Drogheda, 91. - to Belfast, 97. Dronningslund, Storskov, 1330. Drottningholm, Palace of, 1483. Druminur, 80. Drnmlanrig Castle, 167. Dryburgh Abbey, 160. Duart Castle, 119. Dublin: Iotels, 68: Castle, Trinity College, Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Four Courts, 69; Custom-house, Exchange, Nelson's Monument, Galleries, Museum, Phoenix Park, Zoological Gardens, Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin, Cemetery, Irish Poplins, 70; Excursions, 71; Hill of Howth, Kingstown, 71. Dublin to London, Liverpool, Glasgow, and Bristol, 100. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Dumbarton, 114. Dumfries, 168. Dunbar, 164. Dunblane, 142. Dundalk, 92. Dundee, 179. Dundrennan, 174. D)undrum, 96. Dunfermline, 177. Dungarvan, 77. Dunkeld, 132. Dunkirk, 499. Route from Paris, 37. Dunmanway, 53. Dunnottar, Castle of, 180. Dunoon, 115. Dunrobin, 130. Dunseverick, 99. Dunstaffnage, 118. Dunvegan Castle, 129. Durham, 238. Diisseldorf, 581. - to Bremen, 614. - Route from London, 30; Paris, 37. E. East, The, via Suez Canal: from London, 33. Eastbourne, 227 1-3. Eaux Bonnes, 441. -- Route from Paris, 37. Eaux Chaudes, 442. - Route from Paris, 37. Ebal, Mount, 972. Ebelsberg, 726. Ebnat, 1133. Eboli, 893. Ecija, 1232. Edane, 1469. E'Dayr, 937. Eden Hall, 258. Eddystone Light-house, 271. Edfoo, 941. Edinburgh: Excursions in the vicinity of, 151: The Castle, Scott's Monument, 152; National Gallery, Royal Institution, Register House, Calton Hill Monuments, St. Giles's Cathedral, 153 the University, Parliament Square, IHolyrood Palace, 154; Leith, Excursions, Arthur's Seat, Hospitals, 157; Roslin Castle, Dalkeith, 158. Edinbnrgh to St. Andrews, 157, 178. Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Eegholm, 1332. Egeri, Lake of, 1136. Eggischhorn, the, 1114. Egremont, 260. Egypt, 916-944. Route from Paris, 37. Voyage to Upper, 930. Ehrenbreltstein, 683. 10 Ehrenburg, Castle of, 1166. Ehrenfels, 689. Eide, 1410, 1421,1431. Eidet, 1372. Eidsbughrden, 1423. Eidsvold, 1367. Eidvoldeverk, 1367. Eindhoven, 534 5-8. Einingevik, 1421. Einsiedeln, 1134. Eisenach, 623. to Coburg, 624. Route from Paris, 37. Eisleben, 617. Eivindvik, 1415. Ekersund, 1419. Ekonhorn, 1368. EksjS, 1474. El Arish, 951. El Chanka, 950. El Ferrol, 1207. El Koola, 941. Elaghinskoi, Palace at, 1518. Elberfeld, 594. Elbing, 607. Elche, 1259. Elephautine Island, 942. Eleusis, 997. Elgin, 134. Elizavetgrad, 1535. Elsinore, 1321. -- Routes from, 1323. Elvas, 1279. Elverum, 1368. Ely, 232. Emmaboda, 1473. Emmaus, 956. Emmerich, 534, 5S1. - Route from Paris, 37. Empoli, 843. Ems, 696. - to Coblentz, 696. - Route from Paris, 37. Engelberg, 1095. Enghien, 389. England and Wales, 183-290. Enkhuysen, 534 3-8. Ennis, 78. Enniscorthy, 74. Enniskillen, 90. Entlebuch, 1107. Entroncamento, 1289. Epernay, 481. -- Route from Paris, 37. Epesses, 1041. Ephesus, 981 4-5. --- Route from Paris, 37. Episcopi, 981 4-5. Epsom, 287. Erbach, 692, 697. Erfurt, 622. - to (otha, 623. -- Route from Paris, 37. Esbjerg, 1337. Bscholzmatt, 1107. Esclavitud, 1205. Escurial, the, 1223. Eski-Mouca, 981 3-5. Eskilstuna, 1483. Eslof, 1439. Esn6, 941. Espaillev, 453. Espiel, 1232. INDEX. Essen, 581. Esslingen, 669. Estremoz, 1289. Etampes, 402. Etna, Mount, 906. Eton, 242. Etroubles, 1053. Ettenheim, 673. Eubcea, Island of, 1000. Eupatoria, 1536. Evanger i Vos, 1411. Evanton, 130. Evesham, 265. Evian-les-Bains, 1044. Evolena, 1058. Evora, 1288. Evreux, 392. -- Route from Paris, 37. Exeter, 270. Exmouth, 270. Eyrs, 1167. F. Faaborg, 1345. Faeggeklit, 1333. Faeggesunid, 1333. Faemund, Lake, 1369. Faenza, 820. to Florence, 820. Fagerlund i Nordre Aurdal, 1401. Fagernaes, 1322. Faido, 1105. Falaise, 399. Falkenburg, Castle of, 689. Falkirk, 149. Falkiping, 1459. Falkland, 177. Fall of Tatschbach, 1095. Falls of Aar, 1085. -- of Altaba, 1196. -- of Alterheiligen, 702. of the Clyde, 113. -- of Fiskum, 1389. -- of Fressinone, 1065. -- of Foyers, 125. of Kaaterskill, 1555. -- of Minnehaha, 1569. of the Lednoch, 145. - of the Mohawk, 1556. - of Montmorenci, 1559. - of Muoniokosi, 1391. -- of Niagara, 1564. --- of Reichenbach, 1092. - of Rogie, 129. - of SalTenche, 1112. of the Schmadribach, 1089. --- of Sefinliitschine, 1090. -- of St. Anthony, 1569. --- of Tosa, 1104. -— of Traun, 728. - of Trenton, 1557, 1564. - of Triberg, 672. - of Trollhatta, 1462. --- of Uldefos, 1429. Falmouth, 272. Falsterbo, 1470. Falun, 1476,1479. Famagusta, 981 3-5. Fanum, 822. Farayg, 943. Farleigh Castle, 289. Fast Castle, 165. Faulhoru, the, 1091. INDEX. 11 Faurbo, 1340. Faversham, 229. Faxe, 1344. Fecamp, 392. Feio, Island of, 1313. Feldkirch, 1165, 1171. Fend, 1183. Fermo, 823. Fermoy, 5S. Fernan NNufez, 1248. Ferns, 74. Fernstein, Ruins of, 1166. Ferrara, 807. -- to Bologna, S07. Fethard, 73. Fetsund, 146S. Fettan, 1126. Feuchten, 1148. Fez, 1247. Fideriser Au, 1136. Fieberbrunn, 1176. Figueras, 1271. Fillale Marin., 743. Fischbach, 1145. Fischhorn, Castle of, 1171. Fishkill, 1554. Fiskum Falls, 1389. Fiume Latte, 789. Fjaerlands Fjord, the, 1417. Fjerritslev, 1331. Fladmark i Gryten, 1397. Flagstad, Island of, 1382. Flannskjildkro, 1330. FlIgbre, 1050. Fleimserthal, 1155. Flen, 1444. Flensborg, 599,1317. Fleskedal, 1424. Flims, 1131. Flint, 248. Flirsch, 1165. Flodden, 163. Floors Castle, 161. Florence: Hotels, Arno, 826; Bridges, Duomo, Campanile, Statues, Battistero di San Giovanni, 827; Church of Santa Croce, 828; Piazza of Santa Croce, La Santissima Annunziata, Cappella di San Luca. Piazza dell' Annunziata, Statue of Ferdinand, Foundling Hospital, Convent of Carmine, Church of San Lorenzo, Saarestia Vecchia, Sagrestia Nuova, 829; Laurentian Library, Church of San Marco, Santa Maria Novella, 830; Piazza del Gran' Dnca, Stanze of David, Michael Angelo, Savonarola, Piazza Buonarotti, PalazzoVecchio, Loggia di Lanzi,Uffizi Gallery, 831,832; Tribune, Gems of Antiquity, Etruscan Museum, Hall of Baroccio, Hall of Niobe, Pitti Palace, 833; Hall of Venus, Hall of Apollo, Hall of Mars, Hall of Jupiter, Hall of Saturn, Hall of the Iliad, 834; Private Library,Boboli Gardens, Academy of Fine Arts, Museo di Storia Naturale and Specola, Tribuna Galileo, 835; Picture-galleries, Hiram Powers, Theatres, 836; Cascine, Palazzo Riccardi, Biblioteca Riccardi, Stores, etc., 837; Zocchi Emilio, 837; Poggio Impeiale, Fiesole, Villa Torrigiani, 838. Florence to Rome, 838. to Paris, 838. - to Rome, via Empoli, etc., 843. -- Route from London, 3Q; from Paris, 37. Florida, 1579. Route from New York, 1575. Fl1oren, 1428. Fluela-Thal aundPass, 1137. Flielen, 1103. Fochabers, 135. Foggia, 823. Fogstuen, 1395. Fold River, the, 1370. Foligno, 841. --- Route from Paris, 37. Folkestone, 227 2-3. Fondi, 873. Fontainebleau, 380. - Route from Paris, 37. Fonthill, 1553. Forbach, 676. Firde, 1430. Fiirde Fjord, 1429. Forfar, 179. Forli, 821. to Ravenna and Florence, 821. Formazza, Valley of, 1115. Form5 i Throtten, 1394. Forres, 132. Forrest Hill, 227. Fort Augustus, 125. San Marco, 1579. Snelling, 1569. - Ticonderoga, 1557. -- Washington, 1553. Fortun, 1422. Fosen, the, 1379. Foslandsosen, 1380. Fossedal, 1332. Fossegarden, 1394. Fossombrone, 845. Fountain of Elisha, 971. Fountain of Moses, 945. Foynes, 65. Fragenstein, Castle of, 115S. France, 291-500. Frankfort, 625. - to Berlin, 641. to Cassel, 625. - to Prague, 643. Frankfort-on-the-Main: Route from London. 30; from Paris, 37. Frankfort-on-the-Oder, 608. Franzenfeste, 1152. Franzensbad, 643. Franzenshbhe, 1162. Frauenfeld, 1100. Fredensborg Palace, 1323. Fredericia, 1313. Fredericksburgh, United States, 1578. Frederiksborg Castle, 1324. Frederiksborg, Palace of, 1301. Frederiksdal, 1321. Frederikshald, 1434,1436. Frederikshavn, 699,1334. Frederiksstad, 1434. Frederikssund, 1325. Frederiksvark, 1324. Freiberg, 646. - Route from Paris, &7. Freiburg, 673. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Freienfeld, 1151. Fr6jus, 474, 742. French Money, Weights, and Measures, 293. Circular Tickets, 386. 12 INDEX. Freshwater: Route from Paris, 37. Fressinone, Falls of, 1065. Fresvik, 1415. Fribourg, 1070. Friesach, 595. Frijsenborg, 1327. Frisenvold, 1328. Frohlichsburg, Tower of, 1161. Frome, 289. Froiningen, 1411,1415. Fruholm Island, 1386. Frutigen, 1075. Frydenlund, 1400. Fugen, 1169. Fuglenaes, Promontory of, 1385. Fulpines, 1183. Fur, Island of, 1333. Fureso, Lake of, 1321. Furness Abbey, 260. Fiirstenberg, Castle of, 1161. Fussen, 1166. Fyen, Island of, 1313. G. Gaard Botnet, 1380. Ho- el, 1396. Novigen, 1425. Gaeta, 873. Gaillon, 387. Gairloch, 181. Gais, 1124. Galdbhppig, the, 1422. Galenstock, the, 1094. Galixidi, 999. Galway, 83. Gamla Lodose, 1462. Gamla Upsala, 1478. Gandia, 1263. Gap, 470. Gardmo, 1422. Garlid i Sognedal, 1396. Garnaes i Haus, 1412. Gatehonse, 175. Gau el Kebir, 938. Ganno, Castle of, 1341. Gavarnie, 436. Gaza, 951. Gebatsch, Glacier of, 1160. Gebel Silsileh, 942. Gefle, 1478. Geisberg, 675. Geilstein, 1172. Geiranger Fjord, the, 1430. Gelmerbach Falls, 1093. Geneva: Hotels, Carringes, Porters, Bankers, Steamers, Bridges, 1031: Cathedral of St. Pierre, Musee Roth, Mnsee Acad6miqne, 1032; Rousseau's House, Calvin's Library, H6tel de Ville, Arsenal, Model of Mont Blanc, 1033; Musde Fol, Botanical Gardens, Genevese Club, English Church, Manufactures, Environs, Villas, 1034; Ferney, Excursions, 1035.!Geneva, Lake of, 1036. to Chamounix, 1045. --- Various Routes from, 1036. - Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Genoa: Ilotels, History, Harbor, People, 799; Corso, Christopher Columbus, Monument, Discovery of Cuba, Churches, Cathedral of San Lorenzo, Relics, L'Annunziata, 800; St. Aibrogio di Gesa, Santa Maria di Carignano, St. Stephano della Porta, San Matteo, San Siro, Palaces, Palazzo Brignole, Palazzo Pallavicini, Palazzo Dorio Torsi, Palazzo Balbi, Palazzo Reale, Palazzo Doria, 801; Palazzo della Universita, Palazzo Ducale, Bank of St. George, Public Institutions, Accademia Ligustica delle Belle Arti, Theatres, Manufactures, Caf6s, Silver Filigreework, Villa Pallavicini, 802; Railways, Steamers, Diligences, 803. Genoa to Paris, 803, - to Milan, 803. -- to Nice, etc., 803, 808. -- to Pisa, 803. -- to Florence, via Spezia, 80S. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37. Gerizim, Mount, 972. Gerlos, 1170. Germany, the Empire of, 547-703. States of, 548. Gerolstein, 679. Gerona, 1270. Gersau, 1102. Gervais, Baths of, 1046. - Route from Paris, 37. Gesler's Castle, 1096. Gesseney, 1109. Geyser Springs (Iceland), 1349. Ghent, 518. --- to Bruges, 520. Route from Paris, 38. Giant's Causeway, 98. Mountain, 989. Giarre, 905. - Gibostad, 13S3. Gibraltar, 1244. -- to Tangier, 1245. - to Malaga, 1248. --- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38. Giessbach Falls, 1092. Gijon, 1202. Gilleleic, 1322. Giornico, 1105. Girgeh, 938. Girgenti, 899. to Syracuse, 900. Gisselfeld, 1341. Gjendebod, 1424. Gjendeosen, 1425. Gjentofte, 1320. Gjesvaer, 1379,1386. Gjollannd, 1332. Gjorslev, 1343. Gjivig, 1393,1400. Glamis Castle, 133. Glarnisch, the, 1131. Glarus, 1131. Glasgow: Hotels, Commerce, Ship-building, 109; the Cathedral, Exchange, 110; Mechanics' Institute, Squares, Parks, Museum, Kelvin Grove, University, 111; Bothwell Castle, Hamilton Palace, Falls of the Clyde, Excursions, 112, 113. Glasgow to Edinburgh, 112. to Inverness, via Oban, 112. to Oban, via Inverary, 112. - to Oban through Crinan Canal, 116. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 88. Gleichenberg, 740. Glenarn, 99. Glencoe, 121. Glendalough, 75. Glenelg, 148. Glengariff, 55, 99. INDEX. 13 Glin, 65. Glis, 1113. Glogau, 629. Gloggnitz, 750. Glommen, the, 1352. Gloucester, 271. Glucksberg, Castle of, 1317. Gmtinden, 728. Gnesen, 608. Gnesta, 1444. Godi, Island of, 1381. Gohantes, 1249. Gold Hill, 1570. Goldau, 1096. Golspie, 130. Gomagoi, 74S, 1161. Gorge du Trient, 1112. Gorge of Gondo, 1065. Gorham, 1559. Gorlitz, 648. Gorner Grat, 1061. Gorz, 733. Gossensass, 1151. Gdssllitz, 630. Gotha, 623. - to Eisenach, 623. - Route from Paris, 38. Gotha Canal, the, 1461. Gothenburg, 1330,1432. Route from London, 30. G6ttingen, 618. --- Rote from Paris, 39. Gottland, Island of, 1480. Gozzo, 906. Grampenhof, 1162. Granada, 932,1250. Route from Paris, 38. Grandson, 1067. Grandum, 1400. Granollers, 1270. Grasmere, 254. Grasstein, 1151. Gratsch, 1168. Gratz, 730. - to Linz, 733. -- Route from Paris, 38. Gravdal, 1400. Gravelotte, 676. Great Britain, History and Government of, 43-46. Great Grimsby, 237. Great Scheideck, 1092. Greece, 991-1002. - and Turkey, 983-1002. Greenock, 114. - Route from Paris, 38. Greifenburg, 1180. Greifswalde, 606. Greisdal Valley, 1326. Grenoble, 471. -- Route from Lyons, 470; from Paris, i 38. Gresshhbel, 640. Gretna Green, 169. Gries, 1184. Grimo, 1421. Grimsel, Hospice of the, 1098. Grindelwald, 1090. Gripsholm, Castle of, 1483. Gridnerthal, 1153. Grnldal Stone, 1328. Groningen, 534 4-8. Grosotto, 1163. Groto, 1382. Grotto of Balme, 1046. of Osteno, 1106. of St. Paul, 914. Gruudsaet Oksua, 1369. Grunyre, 1110. Guadalajara, 1274. Gubbio, 846. Gudlijem, 1347. Gudvangen i Aurland, 1411. Gulsvik, 1403. Gurre, 1323. Giitersloh, 580. Guttanen, 1093. Gutvig, 1380. H. IIaag, 1171. Haarlem, 533. Haarlev, 1343. Habo, 1467. Haddington, 163. Haeg, 1402,1404. Hfverud, 1435. Hagenan, 675. Hague, the, 530. to Amsterdam, 530. - to IHaarlem and Helder, 534 2-8. - Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38. lHainan, 629. Hal, 523. Hald, 1336. Halifax, England, 264. Hall, 1145. Hallingdal Route, the, 1403. Hallsberg, 1475. Halmstad, 1473. Halsnaes, Peninsula of, 1325. Halton, 262. Haltwhistle, 261. Ham, the State Prison of, 497. HIamar, 1368, 1393. Hamburg, 595. -- to Copenhagen, 1312,1313,1317. to Frederikshavn, 1326. - to Stralsund, 557. Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38. Hamilton, Canada, 1566. Hamilton Palace, Scotland, 113. Hammerfest, 13S5. Hammerhuus, 1347. Hammerotind, Island of, 1382. Hammerstein, Castle of, 682. Hampton Court, 217. Hanau, 625. Handeck Falls, 1093. Hanover, Kingdom of, 577. -- City of, 578. - to Bremen, Hamburg, Minden, etc., 597. to Hamburg, 640. -- Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38. Hanstead, 1370. Ilaparanda, 1391. Hapsburg, Castle of, 1078. istseger Fjord, the, 1420. HIenberg, 1342. Htadewijk, 534 4-8. Harfleur, 390. Harlingen, 534 3-8. Harslev, 1341. Harstadhavn, 1382. 14 IND Hartford, United States, 1563. Ilarvard College, 1563. Harwich, 231. Harz Mountains, 591. Hasle, 1346. Hastholnen, 1468. Hastings, England, 227. - United States, 1553. Hasvik, 1385. Haugan, 1389. Haugesund, 1420. Haugsund Junction, 1406. Haukelid Saeter, 1409. Haut-ChAtillon, 1114. Haute-Combe, 1138. Hauts Geneveys, 1115. Haveswater, 259. Havnik, 1383. HavOsund, 1386. Havre, 391. - to Dieppe, 391. - to England, 391. - Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38. Hawick, 173. Hawlbowline Island, 50. Hawthoruden, 158. Hay, 276. --- to London, via Hereford, Gloncester, and Reading, 276. Headford, 86. Hebron, 968. Hecla, Mount, 1349. Heen, 1427. Heidelberg, 698. to Paris, 699. - to Frankfort, 699. - Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38. Heiden, 1124. Heilbronn, 667, 670. Heimdal, 1371, 1372. Helder, the, 534 3-8. Helensburg, 114. Hellebek, 1322. Hellerup, 1320. Hellesylt, 1430. Helmsdale, 130. Helsingborg, 1471. Helsingfors, 1484. Helvedeshml, Palls of, 1393. Hemnaes, 1380. Herculaneum, 886. Hereford, 272. Herford, 580. Herment, 941. Hermitage Castle, 173. Hermitage Wincs, 467. Hermsdorf, 724. Herning, 1339. Hermosand, 1480. Herrljungn, 1459. Herzberg, 592. Ilerzogenbuch, 1073. Hessleholm, 1472. Hestmandso, 1381. Het Nieuwe Diep, or Willernsoord, 534 3-8. Hexham, 261. Hiero, 996. Hildal, 1409. Hildesheim, 577. Hill of Howth, 71. Hinuernp, 1327. )EX. Hints to Travelers, Introduction, xiii-xxviii. Hirschberg, 724. Hirtsholmene, 1335. Iitterdal Church, 1408. -- Route, the, 1404. Hjo, 1475. Hjorring, 1334. Hjortsdal Village, 1331. Hobrle, 1329. Hoch Eppan, 1153. Hochheim, 689. Hoel, the, 1396. Hof, 642. Hohenschwangau, 1166. Hohe Salve, 1174. Hohlenstein, 1172. Hoiriis, 1333. Holaker, 1397. Holbek, 1339. Holland, or the Netherlands, 524-534 7-8. Holmestrand, 1417. Holsaet, 1397. Holsienborg, Castle of, 1341. Holstebrle, 1337. Holtaalen, 1372. Holybrook, 76. Holyhead, 250. Holzkirchen, 1145, 1174. Homburg, 627. --- Route from London, 31; fiom Paris, 38. IHonefos, 1427. Holfleur, 393. Hong Kong: Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Hoorn, or Horn, 534 3-8. Horgen, 1088. Horgheim i Gryten, 1397. Horfey, 227 1-3. Hornbak, 1322. Home Village, 1345. Hornilen Peak, the, 1428. Horsens, 1326. Horsham, 288. HMrsholm, 1319. Horten, 1417. Horup Bay, 1317. Hospenthal, 1104. Iospice of St. Christopher, 1165. Hotel Byron, 1043. Hounkiar-Iskelessi, 989. Hoven, 1372. Hoxter, 593. Huben, 1182. Huddersfield, 264. Huddiksvall, 1480. Hudson, 1555. Hudson River, the, 1552. Hull, 234. Hultsfred, 1474. Humboldt Wells, the, 1570. Hungerford, 267. Huntingdon, 233. Husbyfjol, 1465. Husum i Laerdal, 1402. Hvedholm, Manor of, 1345. Hveen, Island of, 1319. Hybres, 474. Route from Paris, 38. I. Iceland, 1348. Idlewill, 1554. INDEX. 15 Iffezheim Race-course, 702. Iffigenbach, Falls of, 1109. Imhof, 1093. Imola, 819. Imst, 1159. India, Routes to, 1572, 1573. Indre Kvaro, 1381. Inglinge IHog, 1473. Ingolstadt, 667. Inkerman, 1428. Inn, Castle of the, 1160. Innspruck, 1145. -- to Venice, 1172. -- to Salzburg, 1173, 1176. - to Milan, 1177. - to the Oetzthal, 1181. from Munich, 1174. - to Colico (and Milan), over the Stelvio, 747. - to Verona, by the Brenner Pass, 749, 1175. -- Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Interlaken, 1076. - Excursions, 1088. Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Inverary, 123. Inverlochy Castle, 124. Inverness, 126. to Aberdeen, 126. to Thurso, 126. Inveroran, 145. Ionna, 120. Ipswich, 231. Ireland, 46-100. - Routes in, 47. Irvine, 126. Ischia, Island of, 891. Ischl, 728. Iselle, 1065. Isernia, 875. Island of Gottland, 1480. of OtterS, 1379. - of Strom,, 1381. of Torgen, 1380. Isle of Wight, 222-226. Isles, Loffoden, the, 1381. Isles of Greece, the, 990. Isola Bella, 1106. Issella, 746. Issoire, 452. Italy, 741-894. Itri, 873. Itter, Castle of, 1174. Ivrea, 796. J. Jacksonville, 1579. Jadraque, 1274. Jaegersprfs, 1325. Jaffa, 955. - to Jerusalem, 956. - oute fronm Paris, 38. Jardin, the, 1050. Jativa, 1260. Jedburgh, 161. Jellinge, 1326. Jenatz, 1136. Jenbach, 1145,1175. Jenin, 973. Jerez de la Frontern, 1240. - Route from Paris, 38. Jericho, 971. Jerkin, 1395. Jeroskypos, 981 4-5. Jersey City, United States, 1552. Jerusalem, Approach to, 956, 957; Opinion of Sir Frederick Henniker, Stanley's First Sight, 957, 958; Modern Houses, Colonel James Williams of Tennessee, Mosque of Omar, Difficulty of Obtaining Admittance, 959; Solomon's Temple, IMount Moriah, Es-Sukhrah, Holy of Holies, the Angel Gabriel and Mohammed, Population, Mosque of El-Aksa, 960; Orange Fountain, the Mediterranean Hotel, Holy Places, 961; Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Ground-plan), 962; Minaret of Omar, Holy Sepulchre, 963; Centre of the Earth, Hill of Zion, Last Supper, 963, 964; Calvary, C(enaculum, 964; Armenian Convent, Jews' Wailing-place, Valley of Jehoshaphat, Fountain of the Virgin, the Virgin Mary Accused, Pool of Siloam, Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin, 965; Garden of Gethsemane, Backsheesh, Mount of Olives, Bethany, Tombs, Absalom's Tomb, Pool of Bethesda, Via Dolorosa, Church of the Flagellation, 966; Arch of the Ecce Homo, Tower of David, 967. Jerusalem to IIebron, 967. to the Dead Sea, 969. - to Beyrout, 971. Route fiom London, 31; from Paris, 38. Johannisberger, Castle of, 689. John O'Groat's, 131. Jinkoping, 1467. Jotnuheim, the, 1423. Jordan River, the, 970. Julier Pass, 1123. Jungfrau, the, 1090. Jnrzon, 441. Justedal Glacier, the, 1416. Jiterbogk, 615. Jyderup, 1340. K. Kaardal Gaard, 1417. Kaaterskill Falls, the, 1555. Kaifa, 980. Kaiserswacht, 1175. Kalabshee, 944. Kalafat, 738. Kalamata, 1001. Kallundborg, 1339. Kaltenbrunn, 1160. Kandersteg, 1074. Kandestederne, 1335. Kinso, 1433. Karesuando, 1390. Karlskoga, 1469. Karlso, 1384. Karlstein, 645. Karmsund, 1420. Kastnaeshavn, 1383. Katrineholm, 1443. Katwijk, 532. Kaufbeuren, 668. Kanus, 11S4. Kautokeino, 1390. Kedes, 975. Kehl, 672. Kells, 72, 98. Kelso, 162. Kempen, 534 4-3. 16 INDEX. Kendal, 252. Kengis Bruk, 1391. Kenilworth Castle, 244. Kenmare, 55. Kenmore, 146. Kenneh, 938. Kertch, 1542. - to the Caucasus, 1542. Keswick, 257. Kexisvara, 1391. Kharkoff, 1535. Kiefersfelden, 1145. Kiel, 1312. Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Kil, 1469. Kilchurn Castle, 147. Kildare, 68. Kilfinane, 63. Kilkee, 65, 83. Kilkenny, 72. Killaloe, 80. Killarney: Torc Mountain, 55; the Gap of Dunloe, 59; Magillicuddy's Reeks, 60; Black Valley, 60; Torc Lake, 60; the Lakes and Islands, 61; Ruins of Muckross Abbey, 61; Ruins of Aghadoe, 62. Killarney: Route from Paris, 38. Killybegs, 89. Killyleagh, 95. Kilmacdnagh, 78. Kilmacthomas, 77. Kilmallock, 63. Kilmarnock, 166. Kilmun, 123. Kilruddery, 76. Kilrnsh, 65. Kilsmo, 1470. Kilsyth, 149. Kilworth, 58. Kingston, Canada, 1566. Kingstown, 71. -- Route from Paris, 38. Kinross, 140. Kinsale,53. Kippel, 1114. Kirkcudbright, 174. Kirkestuen, 1394. Kirkevold, 1371. Kirkland (Orkney Islands), 1348. Kirkstall, 263. Kissingen Springs, 641. - Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Kistrand, 1387. Kiti, 981 3-5. Kitzbihel, 1174. Kjelstadlid, 1430. Kjelvid, 1379,1387. jeo, 1382. Kjoerriingi, 1382. Kjoge, 1341. Kjolle Fjord, 1387. Klamm, 750. Klampenborg, 1319. Klausen, Switzerland, 1134. - Tyrol, 749,1152. Kleinen, 600. Klippan, 1472. Klosters, 1137. Kloven, 1383. Kniepass, 1166. Knighton, 280. Knockcroghery, 84. Knocklong, 63. Kobberdal, 1380. Koft, 939. Kolding, 1313. Kom-Ombo, 942. Komorn, 735. Kongsberg, 1406. Kongsvinrer, 1468. Kongsvola on Dovre, 1396. Konigsberg, 607. Koiigsstein, 723. Koping, 1476. Kopmannbrlo, 1435. Koppang, 1369. Korsnaes, 1382. Korosko, 944. Kouklia, 981 4-5. Koulleli, 989. Kouron-Schechme, 9S7. Kousgoundjouk, 989. Krager6, 1418. Kreinentschug, 1535. Kreuth, 1175. Krenznach, 691. Krimml, 1170. Kringelen Hill, the, 1394. Kroderem, 1404. Krokan, 1408. Kronberg, Castle of, 1321. Kronoberg, Ruins of, 1472. Krupp Steel Fouudery, 581. Krylbo, 1479. Kiiblis, 1137. Kuffstein, 1145. Kulla Gunnarstorp, 1472. Knndl, 1145. Kungshatt, 1483. Kursk, 1535. Kussnacht, 1096. Kvaal, 1372. Kyleakin, 148. Kyles of Bute, 115. L. La Bastide, 412. La Chaux-de-Fonds, 1115. La Comballaz, 1010. La Enchina, 1259. La Granja, 1224. La Rochelle, 408. -- Route from Paris, 38. La Thuille, 1138. Lachen, 1117. Lacken, 512. Laerdal, Valley of the, 1402. Laerdalsoren, 1402,1410,1414,1421. Laesovaerk, 1397. Laesso, Island of, 1330,1335. Lago di Garda, 777. Lago d' Iseo, 805. Laholm, 1474. Laibach, 731. Lake Arresiie, 1325. Avernus, 890. Bienne, 1068. Bolmen, 1440. Boren, 1465. Brenner, 1151. Faemund, 1369. - Fousingsi, 1328. - Furesi, 1319. -- Geneva, 1036. - George, 1557. INDEX. 17 Lake Hald, 1336. -- Leman, 1037. - Lucerne, 1101. - Maggiore, 1105. Mahopac, 1553. -- Malar, 1482. -- Mjosen, 1352,1368. - Saelbo, 1371. Siljan, 1479. - Skerrideo, 1340. - Stor-Sjj, 1369. of the Thousand Isles, 1566. -- of Thunsee, 1177. - of Uri, 1102. - Wenern, 1463. Wettern, 1464. - Yasale, 950. Lakes of England, 252-259. of Ireland, 48. Lampeter, 281. Lanark, 113. Lancaster, 251. Landau, 675. Landeck, 1159,1166. Landegg, Castle of, 1160. Landen, 522. Landeron, 1068. Landro, 1172. Land's End, 271. Landshut, 272. Landskrona, 1471. Landsvaerk, 1405. Langaa, 1328, 1336. Langeland, Island of, 1318. Langesund, 1418. Langnau, 1107. Langon, 419. Langres, 479. Lannemezan, 428. Lapio, Lake of, 1176. Lapps, the, 1371. Largs, 115. Larnaca, 981 2-5. Larne, 100. Las Caldas de Besaya, 1200. Las Casetas, 1276. Las Ventas de Alcolea, 1231. Lasswade, 171. Latakia, 981. Lathrop, 1571. Laufelfingen, 1069. Laurgaard, 1395,1422,1423. Laurvik, 1418. Lausanne: Hotels, 1039; Cathedral, Terrace, Museums, Blind Asylum, the Signal, Cemetery, Excursions, 1040.1041. Lausanne: Routes from, 1041. - to Arona on Lake Maggiore, over the Simplon, 745. -- to Basle, 1070. to Neufchatel, 1067. Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Laval, 400. Laveno, 791. Lavin, 1126. Lavis, 1155. Laxa, 1461,1470. Lebanon Springs, 1555. Lebesby, 1387. Lefos, 1376. Lekanger, 1415. Leksand, 1479. Le Locle, 1116. Le Mans, 399. Le Pont, 1116. Le Prese, 1128. Le Pny, 453. Leamington, 243; Kenilworth Castle, 244. Lebadea, 1000. Lebensberg, Castle of, 1168. Lebrija, 1240. Lebrilla, 1257. Lecce, 824. Leeds, 238. Leenane, 87. Leer, 603. Leeuwarden, 534 3-8. Leghorn, 842. --- to Rome, 842. Route from London, 31; from Paris, 38. Leicester, 234. Leipzig, 619. to Nuremberg, 629. - Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Leisach, 1180. Leith, 157. Leixlip, 82. Leman, Lake, 1036. Lend, 1171, 1174. Lengdorf, 1171. Lengenfeld, 1182. Lenk, 1109. Leominster, 274. Leon, 1201. Leondari, 1001. Lepanto, 998. Ler, 1372. Lercara, 899. Lerida, 1271. Lermoos, 1666. Lerp, 1332. Lervik, 1415,1420. Les Contamines, 1051. Leuca, 825. Leuchars, 178. Leuk, 1073. Leukerbad, 1074. Route from Paris, 39. Levanger, 1389, 1391. Lewes, 227 1-3. Lewiston, 1566. Leyden, 532. Libourne, 412. Licata, 900. Lidkbping, 1460. Liege, 515. - Route from Paris, 39. Lienz, 1180. Liestal, 1069. Liljeholmen, 1445. Lilla Edet, 1462. Lille, 499. Lille Elvedal, 1370. Lillebrog, Ruins of, 1346. Lillehammer, 1393. Lillestrom, 1367. Limasol, 981 3-5. Limburg, 628. Limerick, 64. - Lace from Brussels, 64. Limoges, 444. Linares, 1231. Lincoln, England, 237. I United States, 1570. 18 INDEX. Lindau, 668. -- to Augsburg and Wivrzburg, 667. Linkoping, 1441. Linlithgow, 150. Linth Canal, 1117. Linththal, 1134. Linz, 682, 726. Lion, the, of Lucerne, 1087. Lipari Islands, the, 902. Lisbon, 1284. Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Lisburn, 95. Lisieux, 392. Lismore, 57. Lissadill, 88. Listad i Sondre Fron, 1394. Listowel, 65. Liternum, 890. Little Belt, 1317. Little Falls, 1564. Liverpool, 240; Birkenhead, 246. --- to Lancaster, Penrith, and Carlisle, 250. - Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. - Routes of Travel from, 241. Lizzana, Castle of, 1136. Llandovery, 280. Llandudno, 249. Llangollen, 280. Lobau, 725. Locarno, 1105. Loch Ard, 142. Corruisk, 182. - Dochfour, 125. Earn, 146. - Etive, 117. -- Fine, Scotland, 117. - Katrine, 134. - Leven, 121. Linnhe, 121. -- Lochy, 125. -— Lomond, 134. -- Menteith, 141. - Ness, 125. Oich, 125. -- Scavaig, 181. Skene, 160. Loches, Castle of, 404. Lochs of Scotland, 106. Lockerby, 170. Lodi, 812. Lodingen, 1379, 1381,1382. Lofer, 1171, 1176. Loffelhorn, the, 752. Loffoden Islands, Group of, 1351,1381. Lofthus, 1421. Logrono, 1276. Lhgstor, 1333. Loitsch, 751. Loja, 1250. Lom Church, 1422. London: Routes from, 183; Statistics, Districts, 184; Hotels, Lodgings, Restaurants, 185; Sights, 186, 187; Tour around, 188; Hints to Travelers, 189; Parks, 190; Albert Monument, Hyde Park, 191; Squares, 193; Covent Garden Market, 194; the Monument for the Great Fire, Westminster Abbey, 195; Monuments and Memorial Tablets, 196; the Houses of Parliament, 197; an Opening of Parliament, Westminster Hall, the Thames Embankment, St. Paul's Cathedral, 198; Temple Church, St. Bartholomew the Great, St. Saviour, St. Mary le-Bow, St. Mary-le-Savoy, 199; St. James's, Piccadilly, St. Martin - in - the - Fields, St. Helen's, St. Giles's, St. George's, St. Stephen's, Spurgeon's Tabernacle, Whitehall Chapel, the Tower of London, 200; the Horse Armory, the Jewel-house, the British Museum, 201; the National Picture-gallery, 202; the South Kensington Museum, the National Portrait-gallery, the Royal Albert Hall of Arts, Soane's Museum, 203; East India Museum, Royal College of Surgeons, United Service Musenm, ]Museum of Practical Geology, Madame Tussaud's Waxworks, Buckingham Palace,204; St.James's Palace, Whitehall, Marlborough House, Kensi nton Palace, Lambeth Palace, Apsley House, 205; Stafford House, Northumberland House, Bridgewater House, Grosvenor House, Devonshire House, Montague House, Norfolk House, Holland House, Manchester House, Robert Peel's House, Bank of England, Royal Exchange, 206; Mansion House, Guildhall, General Postoffice, Custom-house, Somerset House, Burlington House, Hall of Science, Annual Exhibition of Pictures, 207; University of London, Royal Mint, Treasury Buildings, Horse Guards, Stock Exchange, Schools, Colleges, Learned Societies and Hospitals, the Foundling Hospital, 208; London Bridge, Southeastern Railway Bridge, Blackfriar's Bridge, London and Dover Bridge, Hungerford Bridge, Waterloo Bridge, Westminster Bridge, other Bridges, the Thames Tunnel, Thames Embankment, Holborn Viaduct, St. Catharine's Docks, London Docks, other Docks, St. Pancras Railway Station, Great Western Railway Station, 209; Victoria Station, Charing Cross Station, other Stations, Clubs of London, 210; London Markets, Theatres, 211; Cremorne Gardens, Kew Gardens, Music Halls, Derby Day, Ascot Day, 212; Alexandra Palace,212-215; Royal Aquarium, Cemeteries, 215; Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, Tradesmen Recommended, 216; Sydenham Crystal Palace, 186, 287. London-Excursions fiom: Windsor Castle, Richmond, 217; Hampton Court, Greenwich, Dulwich, 218. London: Route from Paris, 39. Routes to All Parts of the World, 29-33. to Bath, Bristol, and Clifton, 267. -- to Bedford, Nottingham, etc., 234-236. to Birmingham and Liverpool, 239-242, 287. — to Brighton and Isle of Wight, 218 -226. to Christiania, via Christiansund, 1366. - to Ely, Norwich, Cambridge, Yarmouth, etc., 230-232. to Dover, via Chatham, 228. to English Lake District, 252. --- to Epsom, Tuubridge Wells, etc., 227, 287. to Folkestone and France, 227. - to Harwich and Holland, 230. - to Hastings, Chiselhurst, and Tunbridge Wells, 226. - to Land's End, 267. - to Maidstone and Folkestone, 227. - to Oxford, Kenilworth, etc., 264. INDEX. 19 London to Paris, 228, 288, 294, 300. - to Ramsgate and Margate, 289. to Rochester, Canterbury, Dover, 228. - to Scarborough, 234. - to Winchester and Southampton, 285. London, Canada, 1567. Londonderry, 89. - to Glasgow, 90,100. - Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Lone, 1412. Longarone, 1173. Longeborgne, Hermitage of, 1058. Longford, 88. Longueville, 301. Longwy, 496. Loppen, 1384. Lorca, 1257. Loreto, 823. Lough Currane, 81. Gur, 63. Neagh, 94. Louisville, 1568. Lourdes, 431. Louth, 238. Louvain, 521. Lovero, 1163. Lowerz, 1097. Lowther Castle, 259. Lubeck, 596. Lucca, 825. -- to Pisa, 825. Lucerne, 1086. - to Como, over the St. Gothard, 746. - Route from London, 31; from Paris,39. Luchon, 424. -- Excursions from, 426-428. Ludlow, 274. Ludvika, 1476. Ludwigslust, 595. Lueg, Ruins of, 1151. Lugano, 790,1106. - to Luino, 790. Lugo, 819, 1203. Luino, 790,1105. -- to Pallalza and Stresa, 790. Lukmanier Pass, 1133. Lulea, 1480. Lumphanan, 137. Lund, 1437, 1470. Lundby, 1341. Lundemo, 1372. Lunderskov, 1338. Luneburg, 641. Luneville, 492. Lungern, 1035. Lusignan, 408. Lutry, 1041. Luxembourg, 494. Luz, 435. Lydda, or Lood, 956. Lyngby, 1319. Lyngen Fjord, 1384. Lyngholmen, 1420. Lyngseidet, 1383. Lynn Regis, 232. Lyo, Island of, 1345. Lyons: Hotels, Silk-looms, etc., 455 1-3-456. - to Geneva, 456. - to Strasburg, 492. -- Route from London,31; from Paris,39. Lyse Fjord, the, 1419. Lyster Fjord, the, 1416. Lysthuus i Hitterdal, 1408. M. Maabdeh, 937. Maalsnaes, 1379, 1383. Maaso, 13S6. Mackinac, Island of, 1568. Macon, 467. Macroon, 54. Macugnaga, 1063,1066. Madeira, Island of: Route from London, 31. Madrid: Hotels, 1210; Climate, 1211; Manners and Customs, 1212; Puerta del Sol, Prado, Royal Palace, Coach-house and Armory, 1213; Naval Museum, Museum of Natural History, 1214; Library, Theatres, 1215; Royal Picture - gallery, 1215-1220; Academy of San Fernando, 1220; Churches, Cemeteries, Hospitals, 1221; Government Buildings, Royal Carpet Manufactory, Prado, Casa del Campo, El Prado, 1222; the Escurial, 1223, 1224. Madrid to Toledo, 1225. Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Madulein, 1125. Maestricht, 534 6-8. Magadino, 747, 1105. Magdeburg, 587. to Berlin, 588. to Brunswick, 588. - to Kreiensen, 592. Route from Paris, 39. Magenta, 791. Maglehor, the, 1325. Magilligan, 95. Magland, 1046. Mahopac Lake, 1553. Maidstone, 227 2-3. Mainau, 1082. Mainland Island, 1348. Maintenon, 398. Mainz, or Mayence, 692. Malaga, 1249. -- Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Malanger Fjord, the, 1383. Malar Lake, 1482. Malcesine, 777. Malen, 1392. Malestrom, the, 1351, 1382. Malines, or Mechlin, 512. -- to Antwerp, 513. Mallow, 55,59. Malmaison, 382. Malmanger, 1371. MalmiR, 1436. Malmij, Island of, 1434. Maloja Pass, 1129. Mals, 748,1161. Malta, 906-915. - to Alexandria, 915. -- to Lanis, 915. - Route from London, 31. Malvern, 266. Mammoth Cave (Kentucky), 1569. Manchester, 240. - Route from Paris, 39. Manfaloot, 937. Mangup, 1541. Mannheim, 697. Manresa, 1271. Mantes, 387. Mantua, 805. -- to Cremona, 806. - to Parma, 806. -- to Reggio, 806. 20 INDEX. Mantua: Route from Paris, 39. Manzanares, 1230,1277. Mar Saba, 969. Marathon, 995. Marburg, 623, 730, 750. Marche, 518. Marcilla, 1276. Marengo, 797. Margate, 288. Margaux, 415. Marlager, 1329. Maribo, 1342. Mariefred, 1483. Marienbad: Route from Paris, 39. Marienburg, 606. Marienlyst, 1321. Mariestad, 1461. Marifjaeren, 1416. Maristuen i Laerdal, 1402. Marlborough, 267. Marly, 1520. Marsala, 900. Marseilles: Hotels, History, Steamers, 471 -473. --- Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Marslev, 1314. Martigny, 1055. R — oute from Paris, 39. Martinswand, 1158. Martorel, 1266. Martres, 423. Maryborough, 68. Masnedsund, 1342. Massa, 809. Matarengi, 1391. Matlock, 246. Matrey, 1150. Matt, 1131. Matterhorn, the, 1060, 106-2. Maubeuge, 497. Mauchline, 127, 166. Mankhalid, 981. Mayence, or Mainz, 692. --- Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Mayenfeld, 1119. Maynooth, 82. Mazzara, 900. Meaux, 480. Mechlil, or Malines, 512. -- Route from Paris, 39. Medemblik, 534 3-8. Medinaceli, 1274. Medina del Campo, 1208. Medina de Rio Seco, 1208. Medina-Sidonia, 1244. Medoc, 413-415. Megara, 998. Megaspelion, 998. Meilen, 1117. Meillerie, 1044. Meiningen, 624. Meiringen, 1091. Meissen, 619. Mejdel, 975. Melbourne, Routes to, 1574. Melfi, 893. Melhus, 1372. Melleck, 1176. Mellerud, 1434. Melrose, 159. Melun, 741. Mem, 1466. Menaggio, 789. Mengabrit, 1278. Menjeba, 1231. Mentone, 476. -- Route from Paris, 39. Meppel, 534 4-8. Meran, 1167, 1177. Merida, 1278. Merok, 1430. Mersina, or Mersa, 981. Merthyr Tydvil, 277. -- to Brecon and Hay, 276. Messina, 903. - to Athens, 906. - to Malta, Constantinople, and Alexandria, 906. Messina to Syracuse, 904. - Route from Paris, 39. Routes by Steamers from, 904. Metz, 676. Meung, 403. Mezieres, 495. Middelfahrt, 1313. Middelburg, 526. Miedero, 1183. Milan: Hotels, Palaces, Churches, etc., 780 -786. - to Florence, 787, 812. -- to Genoa, 803. -- to Lake Como, 7S7. -- to Paris, 786. - to Turin, 791. - to Venice, 787. - Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39. Mileto, 893. Millport, 115. Mils, 1159. Milwaukee, 1568. Minde, 1368. Minden, 579. - from Hanover, 579. - Route from Paris, 39. Minyeh, 936. Mirabeaun, 469. Miraflores, 1198. Miranda de Ebro, 1196. Miseno, 890. Missolonghi, 998. -- to Athens, 998. Mistra, 1001. Mitchellstown, 58. Mittelberg, 1184. Mittelhorn, the, 1091. Mittenberg, the, 1119. Mitterbad, 1168. Mittersil, 1171, 1174. Mittewald, 749,1151. Mittewald on the Drave, 1180. Mjilby, 1441,1475. Mjisen Lake, 1352, 1368. Mjosstrand, 1409. Mo, 1380. Modane, 477. --- Route from Paris, 39. Modena, 814. - Route from London, 32; from Paris, 39. Modica, 901. Modon, 1001. Moelen, 1383. Moen, 1394, 1409. Moerdijk, 528. Moffat, 170. Mogen, 1409. Moheda, 1440. INDEX. 21 Moissac, 420. Molde, 1398, 1431. Moldestad, 1430. Moleson, the, 1108. Molins, 1122. M6lmen, 1397. Mombegno, 749. Monaco, 476. -- Route from Paris, 39. Money-Kind to Carry, xv. Monistrol, 1271. Monmouth, 274. Monreale, 898. Mons, 523. Monserrat, 1269. Montargis, 449. Montauban, 420. Montbard, 458, 741. Montbeliard, 493. Mont Blanc, Ascent of, 1049. - Cenis Tunnel, 744. - Dore, 452. - St. Michel, 395. - Tendre, 1116. - Torrenthorn, 1074. -- Velan, 1056. Montboyon, 1110. Monte Pulciano, 844. -- Rosa, 1063. - Sissone, 1129. Monteleone, 892. Mont6limar, 468. Montereau, 457, 741. Montevanchi, 839. Montferrand, 415. Montgomery, 128. Montijo, 1278. Montilla, 1248. Montmedy, 496. Montmnlian, 477, 744. Montmorenci, Falls of, 1559. Montmorency, 390. Montpellier, 447. - Route from Paris, 39. Montplaisir, 1520. Montreal, 1557. Montreux, 745, 1043. Montreux-Territet, 1043. -- Route fiom Paris, 39. Montrose, 180. Monzon, 1272. Mouzos, 1199. Moos, 1182. Morat, 1071. Morbegno, 1129,1164. Moreton, 265. Morgarten, Battle of, 1130. Morges, 1039. Morkfos Falls, 1416. Mvrkov, 1340. Morlaix, 400. Morocco, 1246. Morso, Island of, 1333. Moscow: Hotels, the Kremlin, etc., 1523-1532. -- Route from London, 32; from Paris, 39. -- Route to Odessa, 1534. -- to Nijni Novgorod, 1533. Moses, the Fountain of, 945. Moss, 1417. Motala, 1464, 1475. Motril, 1257. Mottet, 1052. Moulins, 449. Mount Carmel, 980. - Etna, 906. Harry, 227 1-3. Hecla, 1349. - Horeb, 947. - Parnassus, 999. -— Tabor, 974. Vesuvius, 884. - Washington, 1560. Muda, 1179. Milhlbach, 1179. Muhlhausen, 680. Miihlheim, 673. Mulhouse, 480. Mullingar, 82. Munich: Hotels, Public Buildings, etc., 649 -662. - to Augsburg, 663. to Frankfort, 666. to Innspruck, 1174. to Lindau, 668. - to Paris, 663. Route from London, 32; from Paris, 39. Munkholm, Fortress of, 1389. Munnoth, Castle of, 718. MUinster, 614. Maoniokosi, Falls of, 1391. Muottathal, 1131. Muradn Saeter, 1424. Murat, 454. Murcia, 1257. Murren, 1090. Murviedro, 1263. Murzzschlag, 750. Mustad, 1400. Mutterberger Alp, 1184. Myceae, 996. N. Nablous, 972. Naes, 1404,1427. Nago, 1176. Nah ed-Damour, 979. Nakkehoved, 1322. Nakskov, 1343. Namsen Fjord, the, 1379. Namsos, 1379, 1388, 1389. Namur, 515. -- Route from Paris, 39. Nancy, 491. Nant Borant, 1052. Nantes, 401,405. -- Route from Paris, 39. Naples: Hotels, Cabs, 875; History, Fortifications, 876; Churches, the Duonmo, Basilica of Santa Restituta, Cappella del Tesoro, the Liquefaction, Santa Maria della Pietra di Sangri, 877; Christmas, Cemeteries, Palaces, Libraries, 878; Museo Nazionale, 879-881; Villa Nazionale, Aquarium, Zoological Station, Observatory, University, Catacombs, Theatres, English Church, etc., 881; Excursions in the Environs, 882 -890. Naples to Cairo, 891. - to Foggia, 873. - to Messina, 891. to Palermo, 891, 894. - to Paris, 891. - to Salerno,,882, 891. --- to Tarauto, 893. - Route from London, 32; from Paris,39. 22 IN Narbonne, 422. to Perpignan, Spain, 423. Narni, 841. Nassau, 695. Nassereit, 1166. Nassjo, 1441,1474. Naters, 1113. Naturns, 1167. Nanclares de la Oca, 1196. Nauders, 748, 1160. Naumburg, 621. Nauplia, 996. Navan, 97. Navarin, 1001. Nazareth, 973. Nedre Vasenden, 1429. Nemours, 448. Nervi, S08. Nesslau, 1133. Nestved, 1341. Netherlands, or Holland, 524-534 7-8. Neuenahr, 685. Neueneck, 1072. Neufchatel, 1867. Route from Paris, 39. Neuhansen. 1079. Nenilly, 385. Neukirchen, 676. Neumagen, 6S6. Neumarkt, 1155. Neu Schwanstein, Castle of, 1167. Neustadt, 750. Neustift, 749, 1152,1183. Neuveville, 1068. Neu\ied, 683. Nevers, 449. New Cross, 227. New l laven, United States, 1564. New Ross, 77. New York, City of, 1547. Newark, 233. Newburgh, 1554. Newcastle, Ireland, 96. Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 239. Newliston, 151. Newmarket, 233. Newport, United States, 1563.1 - Wales, 275. Newry, 95. Newstead Abbey, 236. Newton-Stewart, 175. Newtown-Stewart, 91. NexS, 1346. Niagara Falls, 1564. Nibe, 1332. Nicastro, 892. Nice: Hotels, Climate, Waters, 474, 475; to Monaco, Stores, Excursions, 475. -- Route from London, 32; from Paris, 89. Nicolsdorf, 1180. Nicosia, 981 2-5. Niederbronn, 676. Niederndorf, 1172, 1180. Niedernsill, 1171. Niesen, Ascent of the, 1075. Nijmegen, 534 7-8. Nile, River, 917. Nimes, 447. Excursions from, 448. Route from Paris, 89. Niort, 408. Nissum Bredning, 1333. DEX. Nogent-le-Rotrou, 399. Noli, 743. Nord Fjord, the, 1430. Nordhausen, 618. Nordkjos, 1383. Nordskov, the, 1325. Norheimsund, 1420. Norre Aslev, 1342. Norrkoping, 1442. Norsholm, 1466. North Cape, the, 13S6. Northland, the, 1377. Norway, 1350-1485. Norwich, 231. Nottingham, 236. Novara, 791, 797. to Gozzano, 792. - Route from Paris, 39. Novi, 799. Noyon, 497. Nubia, 943. Nules, 1264. Nuremberg: Hotels, Painters and Sculptors, Churches, etc., 643-645. Nuremberg to Paris, 645. -to Prague, 645. to Ratisbon, 645. to Vienna, 645. -- Route from Paris, 40. Nyack, 1553. Nyboda Tunnel, the, 1445. Nyborg, 1388. Nygaardsbrae, the, 1417. Nykirke, 1346. Nykjibing, 1333,1342. NykSping, 1444. Nyland, 1409. Nyon, 1038. NysS, 1344. Nystnen, 1401. 0. Oakhill, 1555. Oakland, 1571. Oasis, Arabian Desert, 949. Oban, 117. to Loch Scavaig and Coolin HIills, 181. - to Staffa and Iona, 117. Oberau, 1151. Oberdranborg, 1180. Obergestelen, l114. Oberhausen, 580. --- to Amsterdam, 580. to Emmerich, 580. - to Rotterdam, 580. - Route from Paris, 40. Oberhofen, 1075. Oberlahnstein, 687. Ober Miemingen, 1166. Ober Pinzwang, 1166. Oberried, 1125. Oberwald, 1114. Oberwesel, 688. Oblades, Baths of, 1160. Obsteig, 1166. Ockenfels, Castle of, 682. Odde, 1410,1421. Odense, 1313,1344. - to Svendborg, 1344. Oderberg, 614* Odessa, 989. Odiham, 282. Odinshoi, 1322. INDEX. 23 Odnaes, 1400. Oeschiuen-Thal, 1074. Oetz, 1182. Oetzthal, 1181. Offenbach, 628. Ofsten Fjord, the, 13S2. Ogden, 1570. Ogdensburg, 1566. Oilo, 1401. Oks Fjord, 1384. Oland, 1332. Oldcastle, 98. Oldenburg, 602. Olderen,1430. Olesa, 1271. Olite, 1276. Oliva. 605. Olivone, 1133. Olsker, 1347. 0lst, 1328. Olten, 1069. - to Basle, 1069. - Route from Paris, 40. Olympia, 1001. Om Bejdah, 949. Omagh, 91. Omaha, 1570. Orberg Mountain, 1464. Oneglia, 742. Ontonagon, 1568. Opistale, 1172. Oporto, 1290. Route from Paris, 40. Orange, 468, 742. Oranienbaum, 1520. Orbyhus, 1478. Orduna, 1196. Orebro, 1475. Orehoved, 1342. Orel, 1535. Orense, 1205. Oresund, 1318. Orkney Islands, 1348. Orleans, 402. Ormeim i Gryten, 1397. Ormo, Island of, 1434. Ormonts, 1111. Ornavasso, 746. Orsa, 1479. Orsi6re, 1056. Orstenvig, 1431. Orte, S41. Ortenburg, Ruins of, 1181. Orthez, 442. Ortler Spitz, 1160,1162. Orvieto, 845. Os, 1370. Oscarshamn, 1482. Os5l, 1367. Ossun, 431. Ostend, 521. -- Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Ostensd, 1421. 5ster RisSer, 1418. 6ster Svenstrup, 1331. Qsterlars Kirke, 1347. Ostersund, 1480. Ostia, 869. Oswestry, 278. Otanida, 1200. Otranto, 825. Ottawa, 1666. Ouchy, 1039. --- Route from Paris, 40. Oudenarde, 522. Oughterard, 83. Ousby, 1440. Oviedo, 1202. Oxeby, 1332. Oxelisund, 1444. Oxford: Hotels, Colleges, "Great Tom," Names of Colleges in the University, the Bodleian Library, the Museum, Excursions, etc., 242, 243. Oxford: Route from Paris, 40. Ozouer-le-Ferri6re, 479. P. Padron, 1205. Padua: Hotels, Duomo, Churches, etc., 770 -772. to Bologna, 807. --- to Vicenza, 772. - Route from Paris, 40. Padula, 892. Psestum, 883. Paisley, 126. Palace of Drottningholm, 1483. Paletyrus, 980. Palamede, Fortress of, 996. Palazzo Ghilino, 197. Palazzuolo, 901. Palencia, 1199. Palermo, 896. to Girgenti, 899. to Messina, 902. to Trapani, 900. -- Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Palestine and Syria, 953-982. Palestrina, 868. Pallanza, 790,1106. Pamplona, 1276. -- Route from Paris, 40. Paphos, 981 3-5. Paracuellos de la Ribera, 1274. Paradisbakkene, 1348. Paredes de Nava, 1201. Paris: Approach from Rouen, 301; the Octroi, Carriages, Hotels, 802; Apartments, Boarding-houses, 304; Restaurants and Cafes, Carriages and Omnibuses, 305; History of Paris, 306; the War with Germany, 307, 308; Diary of the War, the Thiers Government, the Commune and the Government, 308-318; Legion of Honor, Army, Fortifications, 318; Courts, Tribunals, and Civil Administration, 319; Mayors, Police, Prisons, and Correctional Establishments, 320; Children of Americans born in France, Deaths of Americans in France, Tour of Paris for Fifteen Days, 321: Tour of Paris for Eight Days, for Two Days, for One Day, 322; Days and Hours when Museums, Monuments, and Libraries can be Visited, 323; Theatres, New Opera-house etc., 324-328; Concerts, Public Balls, Cafe Glacier, 328, 329; Bals Masques, Jardins des Fleurs, Steamboats, Railways, Bureaux, 329; the Boulevards, 330, 331; the New Boulevards, 332,333; the Quays, 334; the Bridges,.335, 336; Places, Statues, Fountains, Colonne de Juillet, Place de la Bonrse, Place Carrousel, Place du Chateau d'Eau, Place du Chatelet, 337; Place de la Concorde of 24 INDEX. Louis XV., ObeliSk of Luxor, Place Danuphine, Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, 338; Place de Greve, Place Louvois or Richelieu, Place du Palais Bourbon, Pantheon, Place Royal or des Vosges, Place dn Prince Eugene, Place Vend6me, 339; Colonne Vendome, Place du Trdne, Place des Victoires, Porte St.Denis, Porte St. Martin, Statue of Ney, of Henry IV., Fontaines de l'Arbre Sec, de la Rue de Grenelle, des Innocents,-Moliere, Garden of the Tuileries, 340; Garden of the Luxembourg, Champs Alysees, Rond Point, Arc de l'Ptoile, Bois de Boulogne, Avenue de l'Imperatrice, Porte Dauphine, 341; Hippodrome de Lougchamps, Cascade Longchamps, A116e Longchamps, Theitre des Fleurs, Croix Catelaii, 342; Churches, Chapel of St.Ferdinand, Cathedral of Notre Damne, 343: Church of St. Roch, the Madeleine,344; Notre Dame de Lorette, Church of St. Eustache, Church of St. Germain 1'Auxerrois, Church of St. Sulpice, 345; Church du Val du Grace and H6opital Militaire, Church of St.:Rtienne du Mont, Church of Vincent de Paul, 346; Notre Dame des Victoires, Saint Chapelle, American Chapel, 347; Palaces of the Tuileries and Louvre, 347, 348; the old Louvre, Colonnade du Louvre, Tower of the Louvre, Palais de l']lysee Napoleon, 349; Palais Royal, Palais du Luxembourg, 350; Palace of the Legislative Body, 351; Palais de l'Industrie, Palais du Quai d'Orsay, Palais de la Legion d'Hon. neur, Palais de l'Iustitut, 352; Hltel des Etrangbres, the Institut, Hotel de Ville, Banque de France, the Bourse or Exchange, 353; Mint, Imperial Carpet Manufactory, 354; Government Printing-office, Government Porcelain Manufactory, Government Tobacco Factory, General Post-office, Plateglass Warehouse, the Pantheon, 355; Hotel Pompeien, the former Mansion of Prince Napoleon, Maison de Franeois I.,Maison de CoYneille, Maison de Racine, Sports, Races, 356; Jockey Club, Hippodrome de Longchamps, 357; Museums, Art Galleries, 357 -365; Museum of the Louvre, Museum of Paintings, Drawings, Sculpture, etc., 357 -364; Expiatory; Chapel, 11otel de Cluny, Palais des Thermes, Private Collections, etc., 365; Educational Establishments, the Sorboune; Palais and Ecole des Beanx Arts, 366; Bibliotheque Imp6riale, Jardin des Plantes, 367; the Menagerie, Museum of Natural History, Conservatoire des Arts, 368; Hospitals, Almshouses, 369; Mont de Piete, Cr6ches, H6tel des Invalides, 370; ]Fcole Militaire, 371; Military Hospitals, Markets, Tattersall's, Abattoirs, Artesian Wells, 372; Canal de 1'Ourcq, Sewers, Catacombs, Cemeteries, 373; Tradesmen Recommended,374; Bankers,Plysicians, and Lawyers, 376, 377; Restaurants, General Advice to Travelers. etc., 376, 377; Exposition, 377. Paris to Calais, Route No. 110, 296. - to Dieppe, Route No. 1ll, 386. -- to Havre, Route No. 112, 390. - to Cherbourg, Route No. 118, 392. -- to Brest, Route No. 114, 397. - to Copenhagen, Route No. 115, 1297. - to Nantes, Route No. 115, 401. -- to La Rochelle, Route No. 116,407. - to Poitiers, Route No. 117, 409 Paris to Bordeaux, Route No. 118, 419. to Bayonne, Route No. 119, 423. -- to Orleans, Route No. 120, 443. -- to Narbonne, Route No. 121, 446. to Nimes, Route No. 122, 450. -- to Lyons, Route No. 123, 454. to Nice, Route No. 124, 457. -- to Geneva, Route No. 125, 476. -- to Geneva, via Dijon, 1029. - to Dijon, Route No. 126, 478. - to Basle, Route No. 127, 478. to Basle, via Belfort, 1029. to Strasburg, Route No. 128, 480. to Lyons, Route No. 129, 492. - to Luxembourg, Route No. 130, 493. to Thionville, Route No. 131, 494. - to Cologne, Route No. 132, 496. - to Brussels, Route No. 133, 498. - to Berne, via Dijon, 1029. - to Genoa, 741. to St. Petersburg, 1490. -- to Turin, 743. to Vichy, 741. - Route from London, 32. Routes from, to all parts of the world, 34-42. Parma: History, the Ducal Palace, Farneso Theatre, Museum, 813; Churches, Palazzo del Giordano, the Stradone, 814. Parma to Reggio, 814. -- Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Parpan, 1122. Passage per Steamships, xviii-xx. Passau, 727. Passeyrthal, 1151. Passports - Regulations regarding United States, xv et seq. Pastarena, 1066. Paternion, 1181. Patmos, 983. Patras, 898. Patscher Kofel, 1150. Patterdale, 259. Patti, 903. Pau, 438. -- Excursions from: Rides on the Hills of Juranton, 439. - Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Pauillac, Chateau Lafitte, 416. Pavia, 803. -- to Valenza, 804. Pedrera, 1248. Peebles, 171. Peekskill, 1553. Pegli Station, 742. Pembroke, 276. -- Route from Paris, 40. Penge, 227. Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Routes, 1573. Penistone, 263. Penrith, 251. Penzance, 271. Perarolo, 1173. Peri, 750,1156. Pfrigueux, 445. P6ronne, 498. Perpignan, 423. ---- Route from Paris, 40. Perth, 133. Perugia, 839. INDEX; 25& Pesaro, 821. Pescara, 823. Peschiera, 777, 1176. Pesth, 735. - to Pragerhof, 739. - Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Peterborough, 233. Peterhof Palace, 1520. Petersburg, United States, 1578. Petra, 948. Petworth, 227 1-3. Peutelstein, Castle of, 1172. Pffiffers, Baths of, 1118. Route from Paris, 40. Pflersch, 1151. Pflerschthal, 1151. Pfuuds, 1160. Pfyn, Forest of, 74, 1113. Philadelphia, 1575. Philae, 943. Piacenza, 812. to Parma, 813. Picolein, 1179. Pidhavro, 996. Piermont, 1553. Pierre a Bot, or Toad-Stone, 1068. Pierrefonds, 497. Pietra Santa, 809. Pilatka, 1579. Pilatus, Mont, 1099. Piraeus, 990. -- to Corinth, 995. Pisa: Hotels, Cathedral, 809; the High Altar, Tombs, Baptistery, Leaning Tower, 810; Campo Santo, Church of Santa Caterina, Santa Maria della Spina, University, Botanical Garden, Museo di Storia Naturale, Accademia delle Belle Arti, Palazzo Lanfranchi, the Residence of Lord Byron, Countess Guiccioli, 811; Piazza del Cavalieri, Baths, San Pietro in Grado, Certosa, Cascine, 812. Pisa to Florence, 812, 825. -to Leghorn, 812. - to Rome, 812. - Route from Paris, 40. Pissouri, 981 4-5. Pistoia, 818. -- to Florence, 818. Pitzthal, the, 1184. Piz Alun, 1119. - - Bernina, 1127. -- Chiampatsch, 1126. - Corvatsch, 1123. -- Griatschouls, 1126. Languard, 1127. --- Mezdi, 1126. --- Morteratsch, 1127. -- Mundaun, 1132. --- Murailg, 1127. -- Nair, 1123. - Pisoc, 1126. Roseg, 1127. --- seil, or TSdi, 1134. Sol, 1119. -- Tumbif, 1182. Plangeros, 1184. Plattenberg, 1170. Plan, 1179. Planterkill Clove, 1565. Plurs, 1129. PlymQuth, England, 272. 2 Plymouth, United States, 1561. Poissy, 387. Poitiers, 407. -Route from Paris, 40. Poix, 518. Polgate Junction, 227. Poltava, 1535. Pombal, 1289. Pompeii, 886. Ponale, Falls of, 777. Pont St. Martin, 796. Pontarlier, 47. Ponte, 1125. Poute de Sor, 1279. Pontevedra, 1205. Poutresina, 1126. Pontypool, 280. Poole, 286. Pooley Bridge, 259. Pools of Solomon, 968. Poperinghe, 523. Population of Cities in United States, 1545. Poretta, 818. Porlezza, 1107. Porphyry Gorges, the, 1153. Porsanger Fjord, 1387. Port Glasgow, 114. Portadown, 95. Portalegre, 1279. Porto Maurizio, 742. Portpatrick, 175. Portree, 129. Portrush, 98. Portsmouth, 221. Portugal, 1280-1292. Portugalete, 1197. Portumna, 80. Poschiavo, 1128. Posen, 608. Potenza, 893. Potsdam, 573. Poughkeepsie, 1554. Pozazel, 1200. Pra, 748. Prad, 1128,1161. Praesto, 1344. Prague: Hotels, Altstadt, St. John Nepomuk, 720; Hradschin, Laurenziberg, Cathedral, Relics, Chapel of St. John Nepomuk, Carolinum, Thein-Kirche, Rathhaus, 721; John of Luxembourg, Museum, John lHuss, Acropolis, Queen Libnssa, Ozerain Palace, 722; Wallenstein's Palace, Places of Resort, Manufactures, Monuments, 722, 723. Prague to Vienna, 723.. Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Preromanz, 1179. Presbnrg, 734. - Route from Paris, 40. Prescott, Canada, 1566. Preston, 251. Prestonpans, 163. Prinzensbosch, 534 2-8. PrSa, 1381. Procida, Isle of, 891. Providence, 1563. Prutz, 1160,1184. Puerto de Santa Maria, 1242. Puertollano, 1277. Purmerend, 8848. Putbus, 600. pylos, 1002. 26 INDUX. Q. Qebec, 1558. Qleensto wn, 50. Quin, 78. Quintanilla, 1200. nintos, 1288. Qvestgaard, 1321. Qvidinge, 1472. R. Rnade, 1434. Racconigi, 796. Ragatz, 1118. Route from Paris, 40. Raghly, 88. Ragusa, 901. Rambouillet, 398. Ramleh, 957. Ramlosa, 1472. Ramuiis, 1477. Ramsgate, 288. Route from Paris, 40. Rams6, 1379. Ranault, 1183. Randers, 1328. Randkloveskaaret, 1347. Randsfiord, 1427. Ranft, 1085. Rapperschwyl, 1117. Ras en Nakonrah, 980. Raspenstein, Ruins of, 1151. Rathdrum, 75. Rathhans, 600. Rathlin Island, 99. Ratisbon: Hotels, the Dome or Cathedral of St. Peter, 630: the Rathhanl, the Scotch Benedictine Church, the Walhalla, or Temple of Fame, 631. Ratisbon: Ronte from Paris, 40. Rattenberg, 1145. ltRus, 1471. Ravello, 884. Ravenna, 819. - to Faenza, etc., 820. Ravensburg, 668. Rawyl, Summit of the, 1109. Reading, 242. Redondela, 1205. Reggio, 893. Rehines, S80. Reichenan, 746. Reichenbach, 724. Reichehhall, 730, 1177. Reien i Slidre, 1401. Reigate, 227 1-3. Rein; 1t36. Reine, 1382. Reinosa, 1200. Reitan, 1371. Remagen, 682. Rena, 1369, 1371, 1426. Renfrew, 114. Rennes, 400. RenS, Island of, 1387. Reno, United States, 1570. Repraag, 1387. Reschen-Scheideck, Pass of, 1160. Reus 1265. Rentilngen, 669.: * Reutte, 1166. Reykjavik, 1348. ' ' * Rheims, 495. - Route from Paria, 40. * Rheineck, Castle of, 682. Rheinfelden, 1079. Rheingan, 689. Rheinstein, Castle of, 689. Rhine: Route from London to the, 32; from Paris, 40. Rhinebeck, 1554. Rhoda, 926, 937. Rhodes, 981 4-5. - to Smyrna, 981 4-5. Rhone Glacier, the, 1094. Rhuabon, 278. Rhyl, 248. Ribe, 1338. Richmond, Surrey, England, 217. -- United States, 1578. Richterswyl, 1117. Ricla, 1274. Riddarholmen, 1445. Ried, 748, 1160. Riffelberg, 1061. Riga: Route from Paris, 40. Rigi, the, 1098. Riise, 1430. Rimini, 821. -- to Ancona, 821. - to Brindisi, 821. Ringadn Sneter, 1425. RingkjSbing, 1337. Ringsaker, 1393. Rintrsted, 1314. Rio'Frio, 1224. Riom, 451. Ripalta, 823. Ripon, 238. Rise, 1396. Rispehjerget, 1348. Riva, 988. Rjnkan, Falls of the, 1408. Rjukanfos, the, 1408. Roanne, 454. Rochefort (snr Mer), 411. --- Route from Paris, 40. Rochester, England, 228. United States, 1564. Rockland Lake, 1553. Rocky Mountains, the, 1570. Rodbjerget, 1376,1379. Rodbye, 1343. Rodersberg, Crater of, 682. Rodesnnd, 1464. Rod6, 1381. Riidsheim, 1422. Rordsund, the, 1379. Roermond, 534 6-8. Rogers's Slide, 1557. Roeskilde, 1314. Rohrerbfichel, 1174. Rilken, 1405. Rokkestun Stone, 1346. Rolfs5havn, 1386. Rolle, 1088. Romainmotler, 1116. Romanehorn, 1100. - - Route from Paris, 40. Rome: Hotels, Apartments, Cafds, Cabs, 846; Days for Visiting the Sights; 847; Origin. and History of the City, 848; Walls Gates,. Bridges, 849: Forum Romaunm, Tenipled of Concord, Temple of Vespasian, Temple: of Saturn, Arch of Septimies Severts, Col-. tmn of Phocas,Via Sacra. Basilica of, ilta Recortasis, Temple of Rliri i t Arthtf; INDEX. 27 Janns Quadrifrons,Cloaca Maxima, Temple of Vesta, Temple of Ceres and Proserpine, Temple ofFortunaVirilis, Hiouse of Rienzi, Excavations at the Palace of the Ctesars, House of Augustus, Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla, 850; Arch of Constantine, Meta Sudans, Temple of Venus and Rome,Basilica of Constantine, Colosseum, Baths oFTitus, 851; Temple of Remus, Tomb of Bibulus, Capitol,Dyinig Gladiator, etc.,852; Reserved Cabinet, Venus of the Capitol, Statue of Marcus Aurelius, Tarpeian Rock, Forum Trajanum, Foruml of Pallas, Pantheon, Temple of Neptune, 853; Theatres, Baths of Diocletian, Tomb of Hadrian (now the Castle of St. Angelo), 854; Tomb of the Scipios, Columbaria, Piazzas, Churches, St. Peter's, 855; Monuments, Ascent of the Dome, Subterranean Church, 856; Ceremonies in St. Peter's, Lateran Basilica, Table on which the Last Supper was Eaten, Scala Santa, Santa Maria Maggiore, 857; Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, Pauline Chapel, St. Paul without the Walls, Basilica of St. Lorenzo, St. Agnes, Basilica of the SS. Apostoli, 858; other Churches, 859; Vatican, Immense Number of Rooms, Scala Regia, Sistine Chapel, Michael Angelo's Frescoes, Loges of Raphael, Stalze of Raphael, 860; Picture-gallery, Raphael's Transfiguration, 861; Domenichino's Masterpiece, the Communion of St. Jerome, Museum, Library, 862; Corridor of Inscriptions, Museo Chiaramonti, Braccio Nuovo, Statues and Busts, Faun of Praxiteles, Rotunda, Court of Belvidere, 863; the Laocoon, Apollo Belvidere, Hall of Animals, Gallery of Statues,Hall of the Greek Cross, Hall of the Big, aEtruscan Musetm, Lateran Museum, Quirnual Palace, Private Palaces, Palazezo Borghese, 864; Palazzo Colonna, Palazzo Corsini, Palazzo Doria-Pamfili, Farnese, Farnesina, Barberii, Spada (Pompey's Statue), 865; Rospigliosi, Guido a Murderer, Academy of St. Luke, Manufactory of Mosaics, Gardens of the Vatican, Bankers, Manufactures, Villas (Albani, Borghese), 866: Ludovisi, Pamnfli-Dorin, Palatina, and Wolkonsky; Excursions: Via Appia, Tomb of Scipio, Arch of Drusts, Church of St. Sebastian. Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 867; Albano, Grotta Ferratn, Frascati, Claiudinn Aqueducts, Sacred Grove of Bacchus (called by some the Temple of Egeria), Palestrina, Colonna, Tivoli, Villa of Hadrian, 868; Mons Sncer, Veil, Prima Porta, Ostia, Seani, Studios of Different Artists, 869; Climate, Physicians, Lodgings, 870: Carrriges, Servants, Presentations to the Pope, 871. Rome to Florence, 871. --- to Naples, 871, 872. to Paris, 871. - Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Rome, United States, 1564.. Ronda, 1248. Rinne, 1346. Rntlnebi, 1482. Roosendaal, 527..... Roros, 1370,142&. Rorvig, 138t. Rosarno, 893. Roscoranon, 86. Roscrea, 79. Roselnborg Castle, 1299. Rosenheini Junction, 1145. Rosenlaui, Baths of, 1092. Rosersburg Chateau, 1477. Rosliln, Castle of, 158. Ross, 272. Rostrevor, 96. Rothenthurm, 1136. Rothesay, Isle of Bute, 115. Rottenburg, 670. Rotterdam, 528. to the Hague, via Delft, 530. Route from London, 32; from Paris, 40. Rouen, 387. -- Route from Paris, 40. Roumili-Fener, 988. Roumili-Kissar (Castle of Europe), 988. ~Roundstone, 84. Routes and Passes into Italy, with Time and Expense, 741-894. - from London to all parts of the world, 29-33. from Paris to all parts of the world, 34-42. - through Ireland, 46. - through Scotland, 104. - through England, 183. - through France,Belgium, and Holland, 294. through Norway and Sweden, 1350, 1351. Roveredo, 750,1156,1175. Rovigo, 807. Royan, 412. Royat, 452. Rubens, the Painter, 508. Rudesheim, 691. -- Route from Paris, 40. Rugby, 240. Rugen, 600. Runsted, 1319. Russia, 1486-1543. Rustchluk, 989. Route from Paris, 40. Rusten Pass, the, 1395. Rydal, Mount, 255. Rydboholm, 1458. Ryde, Isle of Wight, 222. - Route from Paris, 40; Rytterknaegten, 1346. S. 'S Hertogenboch, 534 5-8. Saarbruck, 677. Saardam, or Zaandam, 534 2-8. Saas, 1066. Sabadell, 1271. Sabbath-day Point, 1557. Sachseln, 1085. Sachsenbnrg, 1180. ' Sachsenklitimme, 1152. Sacramento, 1571..: Saeby,150. I. Saelbo Lake, 1871. Saelhuns, 1380. Safed, 97T. Safjiistrm, 1473. ~.:'::: Sagoenay River, the, 1559. Siiagun, l1201.; Saintes, 411. 1Ssn Vito, 111it ' 28 INDEX. St. Andrew's, 178. - Anthony, Falls of, 1569. - Anton, 1165. - Asaph, 248. - Augustine, United States, 1579. - Barnabas, 981 3-5. - Bernard, 1053. -- Route from Paris, 41. - Branchier, 1057. - Brieuc, 400. - Catherine, 1567. - Cloud, 383. -Cyr, 398. -Denis, 384, 389. - Elie, 981 3-5. - Erik's Grotto, 1475. - -tienne, 453. - Fillans, 146. - Gall, or St. Gallen, 1121. --- Route from Paris, 41. - Germain, 385. - Gervais,1046. -- Route from Paris, 3T. — Gingolph, 1044. -Gothard Railway, 1100. - Helen's Well, 1325. - Jean de Luz, 418,1194. - Johann, 1176. - Jorgensbjerg, 1332. Laurent du Pont, 470. — Leonard's, Enlland, 227. Leonards, Tyrol, 1179, 1184. - Lorenzo, 1179. - Louis, 1569. - Mao, 396. - Martin, 1046. - Martins, 1177. - Martory, 424. - Maurice, 745. - Route from Paris, 41. - Michel, 477, 744. - Michele 1155. -- Moritz, Baths of, 1123. - Route from London, 32; from Paris,41. - Niklans, 1060. -Ninians, 176. - Omer, 499. - Ouen, 385. - Paul, 1569. - PMray, 468. - Petersburg: Routes to, Hotels, 1491; Islands and Bridges, St. Isaac's Cathedral, 1492; Smolnoi Church, Institution des Demoiselles Nobles, Cathedral of St. Petersburg, 1493; Cathedral and Fortress of St. Peter and St. Paul; the Mint, 1494; Preobaienski Church, Winter Palace, 1495, 1496; Crown Jewels, 1497- the Hermitage, 1498-1509; Marble Palace, Michailoff PPaltace, 1509; Taurida Palace, Annitchkoff Palace, the Admiralty, Statues of Peter the Great and Catharine II., 1510; Arsenals, Museum or Academy of Sciences, Fonndling Hospital, 1511; Lying-il Hospital,XUniversity, Acade. my of Arts, 1512; Russian Gallery, Private Picture-galleries, 1513; Imperial Public Lib)rary 1514; Museum of Im peril Catriasee, 1515; Moscow Gate, 1516; Fnr.dealers, Theatres, Summer Gardens, Gandens of Catharineschoff, 1517; Alexander Palace, 1518; Pavlofsk Palace and Arsenal, Poulkova Observatory, 1519. St Petersburg to Cronstadt, 1519. St. Petersburg to Novgorod the Great, 1521. - to Moscow, 1523. Route from London, 32; from Paris, 41. St. Pierre, 1056. - Prex, 1039. - Quentin, 497. --- Route from London, 32; from Paris, 41. - Raphael, 742. - Remo, 742. - Sauvenr, 436. - Savin, 433. - Sebastian, 1194. --- Route from Paris, 41. - Sergins Monastery, 1521. - Urich, 1179. - Vittore, 747. Sala, 1479. Salamanca, 1208. Sale, 1248. Salisbury, 283. Sallanches, 1046, Salling, 1333. Salon, 1264. Salrock, 87. Salstrom, the, 1381. Salt Lake Cily, 1570. Salten Fjord, the, 1381. Salud, 1200. Salurn, 1155. Salzburg, 729, 1174, 1177. Route from Paris, 40. Samaden, 1169. Samaria, 972. Samoens, 1051. San Bernardino, 747. - Fernando, 1242. - Francisco, 1571. - Germano, 871. - Ildefonso, 1224. - Marco, 1156. - Moritz, 1169. - Pierdarena, 743, - Remo, S08. Sande Fjord, 1418. Sandfarhuus, 1389. Sandtorv, 1382. Sandviken, 1405. SannesSen, 1380. Sanquhar, 167. Santa Christina, 1179. - Croce, 1173. - Cruz de Mudel,, 1231. - Maria, 1162,1179. Santander, 1200. Santarem, 1279. Santiago, 1204. Saragossa, 1272. -- Route from Paris, 40. Saratoga, 1556. Sardafiola, 1271. Sardinero, 1200. Sargans, 1118, 1171. Sarinena, 1272. Sarnen, 1086. Sarntheinl 1153. Sarpsborg, 1434. Sarzana, 809. Sattel, 1136. Sanmur, 404. Saut Ste. Marie, 1568. Savannah, 1578. Savigliano, 796. Savona, 743. INDEX. Saxen-les-Bains, 1112. Saxj6bing, 1342. Saxony, 632. Scanfs, 1126. Scarborough, 235. Schaffhausen, 1080. - to Constance, 1080. Schalders, Baths of, 1152. Schanze, 1155. Schelleberg Station, 1151. Schenectady, 1564. Scherzligen, 1075. Scheveningen, 532. Schiedam, 527. Schiers, 1136. Schilthorn, the, 1090. Schinznach, Baths of, 1078. Schlanders, 1167. Schlangenbad, 695. -- Route from London, 32: from Paris, 40. Schleswig, 598. Schliersee, 1175. Schlitters, 1169. Schloss Carlstein, 1177. Schludens, 1161. Schluderbach, 1172. Schmerikon, 1117. Schonau, 1182. Schonberg, 1150, 11S3. Schinbrunn, 717. Schupfheim, 1107. Schwalbach, 685. --- Route from London, 82: from Paris, 41. Schwanden, 1131. Schwarenbach, 1074. Schwarzer Thurm, or Black Tower, 107T. Schwaz, 1145. Schweizerhof, the, 1079. Schwelm, 594. Schwerin, 599. Schwyz, 1097. Scilla, 893. Scionzier, 1046. Scotland, 101-182. Seacourt, 54. Seaford, 227 1-3. Sebaste, 972. Sedan, 496. See 1184. Seelisberg, 1102. Seewen, 1097. Segni, 869. Segovia, 1225. Sehail, 942. Seistrup, 1332. Selinus, Ruins of, 900. Selsevig, 1381. Semlin, 737. Sempach, 1077. Sennwald, 1125. Sens, 457, 741. Sepey, 1110. Serravalle, 1173. Servia, 737. Sestri a Ponente, 743. Sevastopol, 1537. - to Chersonesus, 1538. -- to Baktchissarai, 1589. Sevclen, 1171. Seville, 1232. -- to Cadiz, 1240. Sevres, 884. Shanghai: Route from Paris, 4L Sheffield, 234. Shekh Abaddeh, 937. Shetland Islands, 1348. Shiloh, or Sellun, 972. Shrewsbury, 245. Sicily, 895-905. Sidon, 979. Sieben Brunnen, the, 1109. Siena, 843. Sierra Nevada, 1250. Sierre, 745,1064. Sigmundsburg, Ruins of, 1166. Sigmundskron, Castle of, 1153,1168. Signildsberg, 1477. Siguenza, 1274. Siljan, 1479. Silkeborg, 1339. Sils Marla, 1129. Silverplana, 1123. Silz, 748, 1159. Simpheropol, 1541. - to Theodosia and Kertch, 1541. Simplon, the, 746, 1065. Sinai to El Akaba, 946. Sing Sing, 1553. Singsaas, 1372. Sinigaglia, 822. Sion, 1110, 1113. Sioot, or Assiout, 937. Siwah, 949. Sixt, the, 1051. Sjobunden, 1426. Sjorring, 1331. Sjitorp, 1463. Skagen, 1335. Skanderborg, 1327,1338. to Herning, 1338. Skarreklit Rock, 1333. Skarridso Lake, 1340. Skarsifelde, 1371. Skeje i Hjaerdal, 1409. Skeleton Tours, xxiv-xxvii; through Scotland, 101-105. Skenuinge, 1475. Skibotten, 1383. Skien, 1426. Skipton, 263. Skive, 1337. Skjaeggestad i Ringebo, 1394. Skjaerpingaard, 1332. Skjern Castle, 1329. Skjervb, 1384. Skjolden, 1416. Sk jorta, the, 1430. Skodsborg, 1319. Skofde, 1460. Skogdalsboen, 1425. Skogstad, 1401. Skoien, 1400. Skokloster, Castle of, 1477. Skotsleven, 1403. Skye, Isle of, 148. Slagelse, 1314. Slathdale, 181. Sleepy Hollow, 1553. Sligo, 88. Sluppen, 1372. Smedjebacken, 1476. Smyrna, 981 4-5. - to Constantinople, 983. Snaasen Vand, the, 1389. Snaram, 1404 80 INI Sneehattan Mountain, the, 1395. Sneern, 82. Snerle, 1422. Snowdon, Mount, 278. Soberg, 1372. Soboden, 1426. Soborg, 1322. SoclleTamos, 125S. Soderhamn, 1480. Sdderkoping, 1466. Sodertelje, 1444,1466. Soestdyk, 534 4-8. Sogne Fjord, the, 1414. Songedal, 1415. Sognefest, 1415. Soissons, 494. Sokken, 1334. Solberg Fjord, the, 1383. Solden, 1182. Soleure, or Solothnrn, 1068. Solferino, 750, 1157. S11i, 1176. Solstein, the, 1158. Solvorn, 1416. Somnaes, 1380. Sondrio, 748,1164. Sonnebeg, 625. Sonora, 1572. Sorau, 629. Sorgenfii, 1321. Soro, 1314. Sorrento, 882. Sornm, 1422,1428. Sisdala, 1439. Soto de Roma, 1257. Southampton, 286. Route from Paris, 41. Soveien, 1383. Spa, 516; the Fountains, Excursions, Casino, Races, Les Quatre Fils Aymoq, 517. - Route from London, 32; from Paris, 41. Spain, 1185-1279. Spaudau, 595 Sparta, 1000. to Pylos, 1001. Speer, the, 1118. Spello, 841. Spezia, 809. -- Route from Paris, 41. Spiez, 1075. Spital, 1181. Spiterstuhl, the, 1424. Spl]lgen, 746. Spoleto, 840. Spondining, 1161. Springfield, 1563. Staatsburg, 1554. Stachelberg, Baths of, 1134 Stafa, 1117. Staffa, 120. Stafflach, 1151. Stafford, 240. Stai, 1369. Staigne Fort, 82. Stalden, 1066. Stalheim i Vos, 1411. Stamford, United States, 1564' Stams, 1158. Stangenaes, 1379. Stargard, 604. StAtzerhorn, the 1122. Stavanger, 1877,1419. Stee, 1401. )EX. Steensballe, 1327. Stehag, 1439. Stein, 1160. Stein Pass, 1176. Steinach, 749, 1163. Steinbrucken, 750. Steindalsfos, the, 1420. Steinheim, 593. Stelvio, the, 748, 1163. -- Pass, 1161. - Road over the, 748. Stenalt, 1329. Stenay, 496. Stendal, 577. Stenia, 988. Stenkjaer, 1389. Stennis, 1348. Stenvigen, 1369. Sterzing, 749, 1151. Sterzinger Moss, 1151. Stettin, 603. - to Stralsund, 605. - to Breslau, 609. Stevnsherred, the, 1341, 1343. Stirling, 138. Stockenboyerthal, 1180. Stockholm: Hotels, Riddarholmen, Helge. nndsholmen, Carriages, 1445, 1446; Royal Palace, 1447; Royal Library, National Museum, Castles, etc., 1448-1457; Excursions from, 1458. Stockholm to Copenhagen, 1481. - fronm Gothenburg, 1458. - to St. Petersburg, 1483. Route from Paris, 41. Stockport, 240. Stockton, United States, 1571. Stoke Pogis, 242. Stoksund, 1379. Stonehenge, 284. Stony Clove, 1555. Stony Point, 1553. Storebro, 1474. Storeheddinge, 1344. Storen, 1372,1396. Storh/ittan, the, 1397. Storklevstad i Qvams, 1394. Stor-Sj5 Lake, 1369. Stornoway, 149. Storstennaes, 1383. Storsveen, 1428. Storvik, 1479. Storvola Fjeld, 1370. Stoss, the, 1102. Stivringgaard, 1329. Strabane, 89. Stralsund, 600,1437. Strand, 1408. Strangnas, 1483. Stranraer, 175. Strasburg, 670. - to Basle, 670, 679. - to Cologne, 672, 674. - Route from Paris, 41. Strass, 1169. Strassberg, Castle of, 1151. Stratford-on-Avon, 244. -- Route from Paris, 41. Strathire, 144. Strathpeffer, 129. Straubing, 727. Strelna Palace, 1521. Stresa, 746, 791, 1065,1106. IrDrX., '31 Strib, 1313. Stromnaes, 13S4. Stromness, 1348. Stromo, 13S1. Stromsholm, 14T7. Stromsoe Island, 1348. Struer, 1337.:;,. Stubay, Valley of, 1150, 1183. Stubbenkammer, 601. Stuben, 1165.. Stuedal, 1371. Stueflaatelt, 1397. Stuen i Opdal, 1396. Stuhlfelden, 11I7. Stuttgart, 665. - to Heidelberg, 670. - to Schaffhausen, 669. - Route from London, 32; from Paris, 41. Sneca, 1263. Suez, 945. - Route from London, 38; from Paris, 41. Sulden, 1162. Sulitjema, the, 1381. Sulmoua, 875. Sulstuen, 1392. Sundsvall, 1480. Sundvolden, 11T3. Sunnyside, 1553. Surendal Valley, the, 1431. Sursee, 1077. Susa, 745. Susten, 1113. Svanike, 1347. Svarholt, 1387. Svendborg, 1317, 1345. Svinkl6v Cliff, 1332. Swansea, 276. Sweden, 1356-1360,1432-1485. Switzerland: Routes, Passports, etc., 1017 -1140. Syd-Krogo, 1379. Sydney, Routes to, 1574. Symi, 981 4-5. Syracuse, Italy, 901. -- to Malta, 906. Syracuse, United States, 1564. Syria and Palestine, 953-982. T. Taasinge, Island of, 1317. Tabor, 725. Taesens, 1160. Taffalla, 1276. Tai Cadore, 1173. Tain, Scotland, 130. - Hill of, 467. Talvik, 1384. Tamworth, 248. Tana Elve, the, 1387. Tancarville, 390. Tangier, 1245,1248. Tanlay, 458, 741. Tanturn, 980. Taormina, 904. Tappan, 1553. Tarancon, 1229. Taranto, 894. Tarare, 454. Tarascon, 469,742. Tarasp-Bad, 1126. Tarbert, 66. Tarbes, 428. - Routes from, 429. Tarbet, 134. Tarm, 1337. Tarragona, 1264. ' Tarrasa, 1271. Tarrytown, 1553. Taunton, 269. Tavanasa, 1132. Taxenbach, 1171. Taynuilt, 144. Tegernsee, 1174. Teigen, 1371. Teianmouth, 270. TelBasta, 950. Tel el Amarna, 937. Telfs, 1158. Tellemarken Route, the, 1404. Tell's Chapel, 1102. Telnaes, 1370, 1426. Temple of Minerva, 997. Templemore, 67. Tenby, 275. Tepe Kermen, 1540. Terlan, 1168. Terni, 841. 'Teroen, 1421. Terracina, 872. Terranova, 901. Tete Noire, 1054. Teutelstein, and Devil's Bridge, 1103. Texel, Island of, 534 3-8. Tharand, 646. Thebes, Greece, 1000. Thebes, Egypt, 939. Theodosia, 1541. Therapia, 988. Thetford, 232. Thing Valla, 1349. Thionville, 493. Thirlmere, 257. Thisted, 1331. Thomar, 1289. Thomery Station, 74. Thonon, 1045. - to Geneva, 1045. - to Sixt, 1045. Thorn, 600. Thorshavn Island, 1348. "-~t Thousand Isles, the, 1566. Threnen, 1380. Thun, 1075. Route from Paris, 41. Thunsee, Lake of, 1177. Thurles, 57. Thurn Defile, 1174. Thurso, 131. Thusis, 746. Tiberias, 974. Tideville, 1325. Tiflis, 1543. Tinos, 1324. Tintern Abbey, 274. Tipperary, 65. Tirano, 748,805, 1163. Tiriolo, 892. Tirlemont, 522. Titlis, the, 1095. Tiverton, 270. Tivoli, 868. Tjoelsund, 1382... Tj'to, 1380. Tobermory, 148. $2 NEX. Tocoi, United States, 1579. Toftemoen, 1395. Tolbacherfeld, 1180. Toledo, 1225. - Route from Paris, 41. Tolgen, 1370. Tomlevolden, 1400. Tonnerre, 457, 741. Tdnset, 1369,1370. Toplitz, 639. Route from Paris, 41. Toreboda, 1461,1464. Torgen, Island of, 1380. Torghattan, the, 1380. Toronto, 1566. Torquay, 271. Torrejon de Ardos, 1276. Torrelavega, 1200. Torreverre Rende, 1335. Tortanga, Gorge of, 1264. Tortosa, 1284. Tosa Falls, 1104. Toul, 491. Toulon, 473. - Route from Paris, 41. Toulouse, 420. Tours, 404. Tours from London, 33; from Paris, 4L -- Skeleton, xxiv-xxvii. Tourtemagne, 745. Traben,.686. Trafoi, 1162. Tralee, 62. Tramagal, 1279. Trani, 824. Trano, 1382. Trapani, 900. Tratzberg, Castle of, 1145. Treib, 1102. Trelleborg, 1470. Trenkwald, 1184. Trent, Italy, 749, 115 - Tyrol, 1155. Trenton Falls, 1557, 1564. Tresenda, 1164. Treves, 678. Route from Paris, 41. Triberg, 672. Trient, 105. Trieste, 731. Route from London, 33; from Paris, 41 Trifthorn, the, 1059. Tripoli, 981. Tripolitza, 1000. Trisaet, 1426. Trogen, 1124. Trotzkoi Monastery, 1532. Trollhatta, Falls of, 1462. Tromsd, 1379, 1383. Tromsisund, the, 1383. Trondhjem, 1372-1376, 1392. Trons, 1132. Troon, 127. Trostherg, Castle of, 1153. Troutbeck, 256. Trouville, 393. Troy, United States, 1556. Troyes, 479. Truckee, 1571. Trysil District, 1869. Tsarko Slo, Palace of, 1518. Tuam, 78. Tlbingen, 669. I Tudels, 1276. Tuf, 1404. Tumba, 1444. Tunbridge Wells, 226. Tune i Vang, 1401. Turbia, 742. Turin: Hotels, Churches, Manufactures, etc., 792-796. - to Aosta, 796. - to Genoa, 796. - to Nice, 796, 797. Route from London, 33; from Paris, 41. Turkey and Greece, 9S3-1002. Turrif, 135. Tvindehoug, 1423. Tvinden i Vos, 1411. Tyndrum, 144. Tyre, 979. Tyrol, 1141-1184. -- Castle of, 1167. Tyskestranden, 1405. Tyven Mountain, the, 1385. U. Ubeda, 1231. Uckfield, 227 1-3. Ucles, 1229. Uddevalla, 1474. Uetliberg, 1084. Uldefos Falls, 1429. Ulefos, 1426. Ullerslev, 1314. Ulm, 664. -- to Friedrichshafen, 668. to Schaffhausen, 669. to Stuttgart, 664.. - Route from Paris, 41. Ulricehamn, 1467. Ulsaker, 1404. Ulstrup, 1328. Ulswater, Lake, 259. Ulverston, 259. Ulvik, 1421. Umhausen, 1182. United States, 1544-1557,1559-1565, 1567-1578 Unspunnen, Castle of, 1088. Unsre Frau, 1183. Unterau, 1152. Unterschachen, 1134. Upsala, 1477. Uri, Lake of, 1102. Utah, 1570. Utica, 1564. Utrecht, 534 5-8. -- Route from Paris, 41. Utrera, 1240. Uzuach, 1117. V. Vadheim, 1415. Vadolanno, 1231. Vadso, 1379, 138g, 1388. Vaerdalsoren, 1389. Vaero, 1382. Vahru, Baths of, 1152. Val Paraiso, 1232. Val Tosa, 1114. Valdepefias, 1231. Valders Route, the, 1899. Valdersund, 1379. Valence, 468, 742. Valencia, 1260. INDEX. 13 Valencia: Route from Paris, 41. Valenciennes, 498. Valenza, 797. Valetta, 910. Valladolid, 1207. -- Route from Paris, 41. Valle, 1417. Vallee du Lys, 426. Vallejo, United States, 1571. Vall6, 1343. Vallorbe, 1116. Valmy, 493. Valognes, 397. Valpellina, 1057. Valsain, 1224. Vamdrup, 1313. Vannes, 406. Vanzone, 1066. Varde, 1337. Vardo, 1387. Varello, 791. Varese, 787. Varna, 73S. - Route from Paris, 41. Vasto, 823. Vedback, 1319. Veguellina, 1203. Veii, 869. Veile, 1326. Veirhdi Hill, 1340. Velzen, 534 2-8. Vemb, 1337. Vemmetofte, 1344. Venas, 1173. Vendas Novas, 1288. Venetia, or Venice, 757. Venice: Hotels, Situation, Grand Canal, Gondolas, Manufactures, Government, Churches, etc., 757-769, 1169, 1178. Venice to Bologna, 769. -- to Brindisi, 769. -- to London, 769. -- to Milan, 769, 770. to Padua, 770. - to Paris, 769. -- to Trieste, 769. -- to Turin, 769. -- to Verona, 769. - oute from London, 33; from Paris, 41. Venningbond Bay, 1317. Vent, 1183. Venta de Quesada, 1231. Ventimiglia, 742. Ventnor, 224. Verblungnaes, 1397. Vercelli, 792, 797. Verdrieteges' Hook, 1553. Verdun, 493. Vergara, 1196. Vermedalsfos Falls, 1397. Vernayaz 1112. Verona: Hotels, Fortifications, etc., 773-776, 1157,1168. -- to Innspruck, 787. - to Milan, 777. to Modena, 805. -- to Munich, 777. - to Venice, 777. Route from Paris, 41. Verplanck's Point, 1553. Verres 796. Versailles, 877. Verviers, 517. Vesoul, 479. Vesteraalen Islands, the, 1382. Vesteras, 1483. Vesterskjernige, 1345. Vestervig, 1331. Vestfossen, 1406. Vesuvius, 884. Vettisfos Falls, 1406. Vevay, 1041. - - Route from Paris, 42. Viborg, 1336. Vicenza, 772. -- Route from Paris, 42. Vich, 1270. Vichy: Hotels, 449; Springs, Diseases, New Casino, 450; Park, Physicians, Excursions, 451. Vichy to Switzerland, 451. -- Route from London, 33; from Paris, 42. Vienna: Hotels, 708; History, Promenades, Palaces, People, Public 'Buildings, Cathedral of St. Stephen, 709; Churches, Church of the Augustines, Canova's Monument of the Archduchess Christine, Church of the Capuchins, Coffin of.Napoleon II., Carmelite Church, Imperial.Palace, 710; Cabinet of Antiquities, Cabinet of Minerals, Museum of Natural History, Schatzkammer or Imperial Jewel-office, Coach-house, Riding-school,Volksgarten, Hofgarten, 711; Picture-gallery, 712-714; Ambras Collection, Armor, 714; Esterhazy Gallery, Prince Lichtenstein's Palace, Counts Czernin, Schonbrunn, Harrach, and Lemberg's Collections of Pictures, Imperial Arsenal University, General Hospital, Lying-in Hospital, 715; Theatres, 716; Meerschaums, Manufactures, Carriages, Baggage Passports, Cafes, Valet de Place, Opera-glasses, Lace, and Bohemian Glass, 716, 717. Vienna to Baden Warm Springs, 718. --- to Dresden, 719, 724.. - to Kalenberg, 718. -to Klosterneuburg, 718. - to Laxenburg, 718. to Leopoldsburg, 718. - to Modling, 718. to Munich, 726. to Pesth, 717, 739. -- to Prague, 725. -- to Schonbrunn, 717. to Trieste, 730,750. - to Trieste, via Semmering Railway, 750. - to Venice direct, 730, 732. -- Route from London, 83; from Paris, 42. Vienne, 467, 741. Viesch, 1114. Vigels Fjeld, 1371. Vigevano, 797. Vigo, 1205. Vik, 1415,1421. Viken, the, 1434. Viker Church, the, 1427. Vikersund, 1403. Vikholmen, 1381. Vik, 1404. Vilches, 1231. Villa Real, 1264. Villach, 1152,1182.. 34 Villach to Brixen, 559. Villafranca, 1203,1266, 1279. Villalprando, 1208. Villanueva de la Serena, 127S. Villard, 1111. Villaviciosa, 1202. Villeneuve, 745,1044. Villeperdue, 407. Villingen, 672. Vilpian, 1168. Vilvorde, 512. Vincennes, 384. Vineroz, 1264. Vingaker, 1470. Vinge i Vos, 1411. Virginia City, 1570. Vispach, 745,1059,1113. Vissoye, 1059. Vittoria, 1196. Vitznan, 1101. Vivalvaro, 1276. Vlaardingen, 527. Voergaard Manor, 1330. Voersaa River, 1330. Vogelenzang, 533. Voiron, 470. Volderau, 1183. Volterra, 843. Voltri, 743. Voorn, Castle of, 527. Vordingborg, 1341. Vrringsfos, 1421. Vossevangen, 1411,1414. Vostizza, 998. Vongy, )46. Vufflens Chateau of, 1039. W. Wadenswyl, 1117,1134. Wadi Halfa, 944. Wadstena, 1464,1468. Waidbruck, 1179. Waidring, 1176. Waldhauser, 1131.. Waldshut, 1079. Wales, 273-281.. - the Tour of, 273. Walla, 1444. Wallenstadt, 1118. Walschenofen, 1153. Warberg, 1473. Warburg, 619. Wareham, 286. Warmbrunn, 724. Warmond, 533. Warrenpoint, 96. Warsaw, 612.. - Route from London, 83. Wartofta, 1467. Warwick, 244. Wasen, 1103. Washington, 1576.,Waterford, 66. Waterloo, 511. Wauwyl, 1077. Weggis 1101. Welherburg, 1149. Weimar, 622. -- to Erfurt, 622. Weissach, Valley of, 1175. Weissbad, 1124. Weissenburg, 675. Weissenfels, 621. INDEX. Weissenstein, the, 1068. Weissenthurm, 683. Welfenstein, Castle of, 1151. Wells, 233. Welmick, 687. Vels, 727. Wenern, Lake, 1463. Wenersborg, 1463. Wernamo, 147S. Wesel, 581. Wesen, 756. West Point, 1554. West Troy, United States, 1556. Westervik, 1481. Westport, 85. Wetterhorn, the, 1091. Wettern, Lake, 1464. Wexford, 73. Wexio, 1472. Weymouth, 287. White Mountains, 1559. Whitehaven, 260. Wiborg, 1484. Wick, 130. Wicklow, 74. Wiesbaden, 693. - Route from London, 33. Wiesberg, Castle of, 1166. Wiesen, 1137. Wigan, 250. Wight, the Isle of: Tours in, etc., 222-226. Wildbad, 703. - Route from London, 33. Wildbad-Gastein, 1180. Wildegg Castle, 1078. Wildhaus, 1133. Wildstrubel, the, 1109. Wilhelmshafen, 603. Willernsoord, 534 38. Wiltau, 1150. Wimborne, 286. Winchester, 285. Windermere, 253. Windsor, England, 217; Eton College, 242. Canada, 1567. Winkel, 690. Winklern, 1180. Winterthur, 1082. Wisby, 1481.. Wishing Gate, the, 255. Wislanda, 1440. Wittenberg, 616. Wolverhampton, 245. Woodlawn, 83. Woodstock, 243. Worb, 1107. Worcester, England, 265. -- United States, 1563. Worgl, 1145. Workington, 261. Worms, 677. Worsaaes Oe, 1343. Worth, 675. Worthing, 221. Wrexham, 277. Wiirtemberg, 664. Wiirzburg, 667. -- to Furth, 643. Y. Yale College, 1564. Yalta, 1541. Yarmouth, 231. INDEX. 85 Yeni Keni, 988. Yester House, 164. York, 234; Marston Moor, Lowton, 235. to London, via Bedford, Derby, Sheffield, etc., 234. Yonghal, 56. Yosemite Valley, the, 1572. Ypres, 522. Ystad, 1470. Yverdon, 1067. Z. Zaleh, 979. Zamora, 1209. Zebdany, 977. Zell, 1169. Zerknitz, Lake of, 731. Zermatt, 1053, 1061. Zevenaar, 534 7-8. Zillerthal, 1151. Zirl, 1158. Zofingen, 1077. Zug, 1088. Zii pich, 679. Zurich: Hotels, Cathedral, etc., 1083, 1084. Route from London, 33; from Paris, 42. Zussow, 605. Zutphen, 534 6-8. Zuz, 1125. Zweibriicken, 677. Zweisimmen, 1109. Zwickau, 647. Zwieselstein, 1182. Zwolle, 534 4-8. I LOONDON0 ilessrs. JAXY Have the honor to solicit a visit from the Beau Monde, to inspect a variety of ELEGANT SILK COSTUMES, MANTLES, ARTISTIC MILLINERY, HATS, And every variety in Dress, specially selected in Paris from the best Artistes, and representing the correct FASHIONS OF THE SEASON. 4-BUTTON BLACK KID GLOVES, Al Sizes, Perfect Fitting, 2s. 6d. per Pair. THE LOqNDON GENERAL MOURNING WAREHOUSE, 243, 245, 247, 249,251, & 253 Regent Street, WV When a Lady Goes Travelling You will find in her satchel, amid her toilet articles, a bottle of I When a gentleman starts- for a lI1 l |I IJl journey, he never forgets his SozoW W i & dont. Why He and she are well aware that among the most treasured possessions of a human being are white, healthy teeth, hard, rosy, healthy gums, and a sweet, pure breath; and he and she are as well aware that nothing so contributes to the possession and retention of these desirable gifts as the free and constant use of Sozodont. This famous dentifrice is free from all mineral taint or acid. Itpurifies the mouth, sweetens the breath, cleanses and whitens the teeth without injury to the enamel, hardens the gums, and keeps them in their healthy and normal condition. The universal popularity of Sozodont, after so many years of publicity and trial, is a convincing proof of its merits. Sold by Druggists and Perfumers throughout the United States and Europe. THE ST. NICHOLAS HOTEL, N'EW YOBK. GOOD ROOMS AND FULL BOARD For Three Dollars perDay. Larger and Donule Rooms at Reasonable Rates, as heretofore, For attention to the comfort of its patrons, conveniences, and safety, this Hotel has never been surpassed. URIAH WELCH, Proprietor. Also of American Hotel) Bichfteld p]rlngs, N. Y; open for summer season about 15th of June.. - 2. WO OIDIM A N, TAILOR, NO. 16 RU1E HALEVY (Chaussee d'Antin), Invites the attention of the American and English TRAVELERS to his large Stock of Summer and Winter Goods, adapted especially to the wants of gentlemen of taste, style, and quality in clothing. CO UR T DRESSES Prepared at the Shortest Notice. f 2... % \. D.. BELGIUM.] S. [BE IUM. CHALYBEATE WATERS. The Most Ancient, and the Richest in Iron, in the World. Season from May Ist to October 31st. SPLENDID NEW BATHING ESTABLISHMENT, With Mineral or Fresh Water Baths, Douches, Vapor Baths, &c. EIGHT SOURCES RENOWNED FOR THEIR EFFICACY IN CASES OF DEBILITY, CHLOROSIS, CONSUMPTION, STERILITY, MALADIES OF THE STOMACH, MALADIES OF CHILDREN, THE EYES, GRAVEL, &C. MAGNIFICENT CASINO. CONVERSATION, READING, AND CARD ROOMS. Balls and Evening Dances, Theatre, Day and Evening Concerts, Fetes of all descriptions. FIRST-CLASS HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, AND CAFES. Hunting, Fishing, Shooting, Riding-Horses, Splendid Races, SteepleChases. Salubrity of the Climate proverbial. Celebrated Sites and Walks in the neighborhood. Direct Communication by rail with all parts of Europe. TELEGRAPH. N.B. —or all information required, American travellers are requested to apply to the Direction of the Casino and of the FOtes of Spa. 4 JOHN ARTHUR & CO., Agents to the British and Ainerican Ernbassies, BANK AND EXCHANGE OFFICE, GENERAL COMMISSION AGENTS, AND WINE MERCHANTS, Agents for the National Line of Steamers, 10 RUE CASTIGLIONSE, PARIS. ESTABLISHED 50 YEARS. MESSRS. JOHN ARTHUR & CO. beg to call the attention of the Public visiting Paris and the Continent to the advantages afforded by the following branches of their Establishments: BANK AND EXCHANGE. Checks on the various Banks of Great Britain cashed on presentation, at the highest premium, thus avoiding the inconvenience of carrying Circular and other Notes, the usual Banker's Commission not being charged. Accounts Current allowed, and Interest granted on Deposits. Letters of Credit given for India, China, America, and the Continent. Sales and Purchases of Public Securities effected. HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENCY. Furnished and Unfurnished Houses and Apartments of every description procured in Paris, its Environs, or any part of France, without any expense to the Tenant. Estates Bought and Sold. Temporary or other accommodation secured in the best Hotels by advising the Firm. COMMISSION AGENCY. Every description of Merchandise, Furniture, Works of Art, Bronzes, &c., obtained at the trade price, thus saving the buyer from 20 to 30 per cent. FOREIGN AND FRENCH WINES. The extensive Stock of JOHN ARTHUR & CO., formed during the last thirty-six years, enables them to supply Wines of the finest quality on most moderate charges. ' ' 5 L X J. ALLISON & CO., SILK MERCERS, LINEN DRAPERS, &c. Re R llt u 2ense, 238, 240, ad 242 Regent Steet, And Carriage Entrance, 26 and 27 Argyll Street, LONDON, W. DEPARTMENTS. Silks. Velvets. Ribbons. Lace. Cloaks. Furs. Dress Trimmings. Ball and Evening Dresses. Dress-Making. Costumes. Dress Materials. Household Linen. Gloves. Hosiery. Shawls. Parasols. IHaberdashery. Millinery. I r. IIlrI. Irll I; I I FAMILY MOURNING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. I I I I I I - -- -- - 1 ** Close at Two o'clock on Saturdays all the year round. BANIERS: SIR SAMUIIEL SCOTTI & COMPANYY. 6 This Maient Hotel co ands te Finest Site in Europe. Close to Public Buildings, Galleries, Theatres, and with easy Conveyance to all parts. H -q GRAND SALLE A MANGER. Ladies' Drawing- Room. Spacious Suites. Attractions of the best Eu. ropean and American Hotels, with domestic repose and comfort.... S l..:,.., - e-\. - %S *.. * f q 0 *. 1 SURPLICE ~ ~ X 5HR;TAD AK SURPLICE SHIP.iT. TRbAIRE MXARK. s": L ONiDON. SAMPSON & CO. SURPLICE SIT TAILORS, No. 130 Oxford Street, London, WV. All Goods maiod in Plain Figw and Fized P '-> GENTLEXEN'S GLOERS AND HOSIERS. SHIRTS ---Pure Irish Linen; Calico Linen Bosoms and Cuffs; Colored French Cambric; Saratta Gauze Cotton-very suitable for travelling. GLOVES-in all Colors, One or Two Buttons.-Dent's Best Kid, Dent's Dogskin, Dent's Driving, Dumont's Paris, Ladies' Gloves. HOSIERY. -Balbriggan Hose and Half Hose; Indian Gauze Vests; Merino and Balbriggan Pantaloons, double seated for riding; Scarlet and Self Gray Lamb's Wool Vests, Pantaloons -will not shrink; Stout Silk Underclothing, Travelling Rugs, Maudes, Umbrellas, Portmanteaus, Bags, &o. Mi Ss. SAMPSON & CO., devoting themselves exclusively to the Department of Gentlemen's Undeothi an Tailori and orinand holding as they dthehe largest and best-assord tores in the West-End of London, beg to invite the attention of American Gentlemen to their Establishment, as being replete with all the necessaries for a Gentleman's Outfit. 8 The Midland Grand Hotel, Lndon. R. ETZENSBERGER, Manager. T HE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL, opened in May, 1873, with the adjoining Station, constitutes the GRANDEST RAILWAY TERMINUS IN THE WORLD. It is furnished and decorated in the most costly and elaborate style throughout. There is nothing to equal it either in point of comfort or architectural beauty. Every modern appliance and improvement has been introduced in a most liberal spirit; Erard's Pianos are at the free disposal of the occupants in every first-class private sitting-room. The public rooms are the finest and best of any Hotel in the Kingdom. Bedrooms for 500 guests, most luxuriously furnished with couches and easy chairs, varying in charges from 2s. 6d. to 14s. per day. Every room is thoroughly well lit and ventilated. A free area of several hundred yards' width surrounds the building on every side, which contributes greatly to the privacy and comfort of visitors, and makes the Midland Grand Hotel an exceptionally healthy and most desirable residence for visitors intending to spend some time in London. The tariff is mre rmod-,erate than in any other first-class London Hotel. A uniformly mild temperature is maintained in all seasons. Pullman's Palace Cars are attached to all through Passenger Trains between London, Manchester, Liverpool, and Scotland; the Midland Trains passing through the most splendid scenery, and being in connection with all the chief Manufacturing ToWas of thi country from the London Terminus., * LONDON* ONE?' OF THE SIGHTS OF THE CITY, Stusr And, Wai Lghts. GORNAMENTA L'GLASS, NlSHADFOREIGN. CHNl"~A, VASIES. 'Dihner, DssdetTa'i Bre ifSt 8ris IN KINONIS AND WVORCESTER POROELAIN AND STONE CHINA. BIMNGHAM: Manufactory and- Sliow-Rooms, Broad St#,LONDON: Show-'Roomsi, 45 Ozfrd, Street, W. 10 LO'Q.@X........-Af 0 *z.:b.Ss.t~*S**w it.L *; << tss r b;_ t LONDON. JAMES SPENCE & CO., TASTE, ELEAN, A FASHION INS D _ --. ~ — U-:~ _OPPOSITE ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. SILKS VELVETIS, HOSIERY, Gloves, La Carpets, Curtains, o TASTE, EEGLANOE, AND FASION INSURED. N.B.-Combined with a visit to the Cathedral, ladies and gentlemen are requested to inspect the extensive and varied stock (in latest novelties)" of 'Weaming Apparel, &c., always on hand. OPPOSITE ST. PAUL'S CATHBDRiAL. PRICES UNIFORMLY -MODERATE. 12 SIR WALTER SCOTT S MONUMENT. THE ROYAL HOTEL, (DONALD MACGREGOR, Owner and Proprietor), 53 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH, OPPOSITE THE SCOTT MONUMENT, AND COMMANDING THE BEST VIEWS OF THE GARDENS, CASTLE, ARTHUR'S SEAT, &c. The Royal Hotel las been greatly enlarged, wth all modemniromrtements; is the nearest first-class Hotel to the Railway Stations. Reduction of charges to meet the requirements of the times. A night porter in attendance. An Elevator has been added. his house is the favorite American Hotel in Edinburgh. 8 18 BANK OF MONTREAL. ESTABLISHED IN 1818. GOLD. CAPITAL, - - $12,000,000 RESERVE FUND, - - - - - 5,000,000 The BANK OF MONTREAL is prepared to issue CIRCULAR NOTES AND LETTERS OF CREDIT TO TRAVELLERS, AVAILABLE IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. -S N'3W YORK OFFICOE, WALTER WATSON, 59 & 61 Wal St ALEXANDER LANG, Agent. Buy and sell Sterling Exchange, Francs, and Cable Transfers; grant Commercial and Travellers' Credits, available in any part of the world; issue Drafts on and make Collections in Chicago and throughout the Dominion of Canada. ^ i LO)TNDON' O1:FWICE, 9 Birchin Lane, Lombard Street. C. ASHWORTH, Manager. 14.. THE LANGHAM HOTEL, Portland Place, London. This magnificent, first-class American Hotel is situated in the most elegant, central, and healthy position in the City of London, in the immediate vicinity of Regent St., Oxford St., New Bond St., and within easy distances of HYDE PARK, the HoUSES OF PARLIAMENT, and principal places of amusement. The building is fire-proof, and contains elegant Billiard, Smoking, and Coffee Rooms, in addition to large Public Parlors, Bath-Rooms, &c., &c. SMALPAGE & SON, 41 and 43 Maddox St., Bond St., LONDON, W. FIRST-CLASS WEST END TAILORS, AND AGENTS FOR THE CUNARD AND WHITE STAB LINES, Travellers' Telegram Co, &c. Luggage Stored and Forwarded. 15 JAMES WEIR & KIGHT, 283 Regent Street, LONDON, W. (15 doors from the Langham Hotel). IELAMNOGRAPHIC PORTRAITS. A New Method dust introduced from Germany) for enlarging Cartes de Visite, by Hand, to any size. No sitting necessary. A Photograph, Mtniature, or Painting only is required to procure a Portrait of marvellously lifelike fidelity, which cannot be produced by Photography or any other process. S:PECIME:NS SON VIEW AT THI: STUT)IO. Prices for Bust Portraits, 14x12, 42s.; 20x17, 52. 6d.; 32x26, 63s. Life Size, Half Length, 105& 1ie Size, Full Length, 2Ws. BOOKSELLERS, STATIONERS. MBSSaS. J. WEIR & KNIGHT beg to call the attention of Travellers to their "Specialty" in keeping on hand all kinds of Guides, Maps, &c., for home and abroad, viz.: A X RPER, EBAKEKER, MURRAY, AND OTJHEftSW.*;'~i?:' Also, Portable Writing Cases, MS. Books, Pocket Memorandums, &c. A GOOD ASSORTMENT OF FICTION BY BEST AUTHORS. Dies Engraved and Paper Stamped, Plain or in Colors-all at Reasonable Charges ARMS FOUND AND MONOGRAMS DESIGNED. JAMES WEIR $i KNICHT, 283 Regent Street, London, W. LONDDON. CLI FFIORD HE. PUGH, AMERICAN TAILO;R, 319 Regent Street (Langham Place), THREE DOORS FROM THE LANGHAI1. PRIVATE AMERICAN HOTEL, 15 New Cavendish Street, LONDON, W. Xopationx in the Best Part of the West S1n4, n*ear Oifrd, Bond, and REegentL Street-s. eLttf)eufe tanquieri unt Xfecffel-iompteir. BURT.EAU DE CCHAN GE. HANDS & CO., 16 STRAND, Charing Cross Rail Station, LONDON, W. C. FOREGXN BANK-NOTES, GOLD, AND OBLIGATIONS, AND DRAFTS CASHED ON PRESENTATION. 16 WESTMINSTER PALACE HOTEL, Victoria Street, London, S.W., opp. Westminster Abbey, Is contiguous to the Parks, Clubs, Railway Stations, and Theatres. It has recently been considerably enlarged and embellished, and contains fine and commodious Public Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Cuisine excellent, and every attention paid to the comfort of visitors. SEE GUIDE NOTICE UNDER HEAD OF HOTELS, PAGE 185. LONDON. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. 1 REGENT STREET, Waterloo Place. A First-Class Hotel. The best Restaurant in London. Accessible to gentlemen not residing in the Hotel. Luncheons, Dinners, and Suppers at fixed prices, and a la Oarte. LONDON. BENSON & HEDGES, Importers of Havana Cigars To I.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, K.G., and H.R.H. THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT, K.G. 13 OLD BOND STREET. LONDON. THE HOLBORN RESTAURANT, 218 HCIGH HOLBORI2N. ONE OF THE SIGHTS AND ONE OF THE COMFORTS OF LONDON. Dinners and Luncheons from Daily Bill of Fare. THE FAMOUS TABLE D'HOTE DINNER EVERY EVE NI(NG3-, At separate tables, in the Grand Saloon, the Prince's Saloon, and the Duke's Saloon, from 5.30 to 8.30, 3s. 6d.-including Two Soups, Two Kinds of Fish, Two Entrees, Joints, Sweets, Cheese (in variety), Salad, &c., with Ices and Dessert. This favorite dinner is accompanied by a Concert of High-Class Instrumental Music, by an orchestra of well-known artists.-* * * / - -:' - ': ~ *,., \ LONDDON. LINaOLN, BENNETT, & aD. IIATEIS I1 NTT aTo the Royal Family. _.0& Co — sackv Sreet, GENTLEMEN'S HATS IN EVERY VARIETY. LADIES' VELVET NAPPED RIDING AND FELT HATS. I Sackville St. and 40 Piccadilly, London, W. LONDON. CRAWLEY'S YORK HOTEL, 8, 9,10, and 11 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. Elegant Suites of Apartments to suit all tastes, for Families and Single Gentlemen. C. & L. H. CRAWLEY, Proprietors. BOARD, &C., IN LONDON, ENGLAND, At Mr. and Mrs. BURR'S, 11 Queen Square. (West Central District.) Rooms for 45. Day or longer. Everything first class. Terms according to rooms selected. LONDON. SEWELL & CROWTHER. Passages secured by all Transatlantic Lines to America and to the East. Trunks, Works of Art, and Packages forwarded to all parts of the World. 18 COCKSPUR STREET, Charing Cross. H J. S COTT & SON, A: Itxo TAILORS, 55 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON. 18 CHARLES FRODSHAM & CO., 84 Strand, LONDON, By appointment to tier Majesty, WATCH, CLOCK, AND CHRONOMETEE MAKEIRS To the Queen, and their Boyal Hignesses ~! the Prince and Princess of Wales. Gold Medal at the Paris Exhibition of 1866. Gold Medal, First Class, Nae~pl$ Gold Medal of the First Order,,ftm the Emperor of Russia, for services renred to the Great Russian Survey/ WATCHES, CERONOMETERS, and CsLOOxS, of every description, from the simplest and least expensive to the most complicated. ^ IONLY PLACE OF BUSINESS, - 84 STRAND, LONDON. The public are respectfully cautioned against numerous forgeries of our name and trade marks. LONDON. ASPREY & SONS. ENGLISH DRESSING CASES, TRAVrLLING BAGS, Writing Cases; Pocket-Boks, Leather G F cy N e li* ad ARTICLES de VERTU and de LUXE, Staiion r, &c. 166 Bond St. and 22 Albemarle St. LONDON. CITIZEN AND FAN MAKER. EDWAIRD B. NAS1H. "Specialty," Art Painting on Fans. 27 OLD BOND STREET. LONDON. ROBERTS & CO., CHEMISTS, 76 NEW BOND STREET. PARIS, 23 Place Vendome. Chemists to the Emperor and Imperial Family, and the English, Russian, and Austrian Embassies. LONDON. PARIS AND EUROPE HOTEL. 15 & 16 Leicester Place, and 7 & 9 Leicester Square, W. C. CHAIINIG- CROSS STATION. Situate in the most central part of the Metropolis, and in close proximity to the Theatres, Parks, and Clubs. Recommends itself to Families and Gentlemen who desire to live as on the Continent. Restaurant a la Carte and Table d'EHte. Ladies' Private Dining and Siting Rooms. Cuisine aid seetied ala Francaise. lroprietor, P. VARGUES. 19 E8tabUhe777. SA GSTER & CO., Established 1777. UMBRELLA.MANUFACTURERS. Make to the Qeen, Prince and Princess of Wales, Puke and Duchess of dinburh, Crown Princess of Grmanry, and the Nobility and Elite generally. Respecullyinvite the attention of Tourists and others visiting London to their extensive and varied ielelon of UMBREtLAS, SUSNE ADES, PARASOLS, FANCY CANES, and WHIPS AT 140 Regent St. ^75 CheaDside., 10 Reoyal Exch'le 94 Frlet St.,t -(The Original House). LAOIES' GENTLEENS |ElS U -IMBRELLSAS UMBRELLAS, 7 _ From 8s. 6d. From 10s. 6d. SIX PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED.-London, 1851 and 1862. New York, 1853. Paris, 1855. Vienna, 1873. Philadelphia, 1876. Shippers and wholesale dealers supplied on the best terms, at their manufactory, -. i,.75 'CECH3EAPSIDE. WHOLESALE PRICE-LISTS ON APPLICATION. LONDON. MINTON CHINA. I. P. G G. PHILLIPS, 357, 358, and 359 OXFORD ST., LONDON, W., Have executed many fine services of this celebrated China for Americans, examples of which may be seen on application. Large stocks of every kind to select from. WORCESTER CHINA. Messrs. PHLLIPS were the successors by purchase to the London business of Mesrs. Chamberlain of Worcester the predecessors of the preseOt. ROYAL PORCELAIN COMPA-Yof whose splendid productions many examples may be seen at 357, 358, and 359 Oxford Street... WEiDGWOOD -WARE.. Messrs. PRILLIPS also purchased the London business of the old-established firm of JOSIAH WEDGWOOD & SON, and still continue to make Wedgwood Ware one of their Specialties. CROWN DERBY CHINA. The Crown Derby Works having been resuscitated, Messrs. PHILLIPS have on view a large variety of Services, &c., reproductions of the old patterns, at very moderate prices. WEBB'S GLASS. Messrs. PHILLPS keep a large stock of Table and Ornamental Glass, made by Messrs. Webb, whose exhibits at the Paris Exhibition of 1878 will always remain one of the wonders of that great show. PORCELAIN, STONE, GLASS SERVICES, ORNAMENTS of every description and price, maybead of. W P. & G. PHILLIPS, 867, 368, and 89 Oxford St, LondoAW. - E - A.. ^ 0. LONDON. Messrs. HATCHARD, PUBLISHERS AND BOOKSELLERS TO TIE QUEEN AND THE ROYAL FAMILY. 18 Piccadilly, - - - - LONDON. THE LARGEST ASSORTMENT IN LONDON OF ALL THE NEW AND STANDARD BOOKS FOR THE LIBRARY, THE TABLE, AND FOR CHILDREN. A Choice Selection in Plain and Ornamental Bindings. CATALOGUES SENT FREE ON APPLICATION. A LARGE STOCK OF NOVELS, GUIDE-BOOKS, &c. Bookbinding in every style. The usual discount. Foreign Post Orders promptly executed. LONDON.: BOoT.\ /BfOTS- BOOTS.a OO OO\ Tn. TRADE>^ MARK M TRADE ^vMARK /TAOEM AI1 \TRMADE ^MARK TRADE MAR FIVE FVE FIVE FIVE < > FIVE MILE8 AN HOURJ MILES AN HOU/ \,LEB AN HOUR MILES AN HOUl \MILES AN HOUR VtASY/. E ASY./ \^. IME:RICAN LADIES AND GENTLEMEN Are invited to makie their purchases of first-class BOOTS and SHOES at WVAUKENPHAST & CO.'S WAREHOUSE, 60 Haymarket, - - - LONDON, S W. CAUTION I-None are genuine, whether purchased in England or America, without one of the above marks stamped on the sole. 1 21 BRISTOL HOTEL, London. O BURLINGTON GARDENS I V n ROYAL AC A D t M Y I I co 1 0[' ---A -., PICCADILLY PICCA DILLY This large FAMILY HOTEL, situated between Bond Street and Regent Street, near Piccadilly, as the plan above shows, is newly established, and furnished in the Continental style, with every possible comfort and modern improvement. FIRST-RAE CUISINE, AND EXCELLENT WINES. Proprietor, - H. EISELE, - - - from Meurice's Hotel, Paris. THE GRESHAM HOTEL, YUpper Sackville Street, ' DUBLI'N. One of the largest and best-appointed in Ireland. Largely patronized by American Families and Tourists. Tariff fixed, and based on moderate scale. AM^:EI5ICAN 1 MEDICINES. SWANN, ENGLISH CHEMIST, 12 RUE CASTIGLIONE, PARIS. This House has had the patronage of the United States Ambassadors and principal American Families for upward of'Twenty Years. 22 ,i-L., ONDON, ENGLAND., i. H. L. MARSHALL & CO,, ARMY, NAVY, AND MERCHANT ^$~-~ --- —------------------- /V V\ TAILORS, 516 NEW OXFORD STREET, Near the British Museum. THlE MOTTO OF TIIS ESTABLISHMENT IS:, 4 GOODS OF THE FIRST QUALITY, { CUT AND MADE BY ARTISTS OF KNOWN REPUTE WITH PROMPTITUDE, And at the LOWEST REMIUNERATIVE CHARGES. INVENTORS OF THE CELEBATED IDONEOUS PANTS Luggage Stored and Forwvarded, 23 CAYG ILL'S TOURS, EXCURSIONS, AND GEN]EiBAL TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS, CAYGILL'S ORDINARY TICKETS, by Great Northern Route (East Coast Cathedral Routes) issued in advance, available by all trains from or to London, and all principal Stations to LANCASHIRE, YORKSHIRE, EAST COAST STATIONS, and SCOTLAND. CAYGILL'S ORDINARY TICKETS, by London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, embracing London and BRIGHTON, EASTBOURNE, Hastings, Portsmouth, Isle of Wight, &c., &c.; issued in advance, and allowed stop-over privileges. CAYGILL'S ORDINARI TICKETS, by South-Eastern Railway, embracing London and Ramsgate, Margate, Dover, Canterbury, Hastings, St. Leonards, &c., &c.; issued in advance, and allow breaks of journey en route. CAYGILL'S SCOTTISH CIRCILAR TOURIST AND THROUGH TICKETS, cover the Trosachs, Lock Katrine, Loch Loniond, Crinan Canal, Oban, Caledonian Canal, Loch Maree, The Isle of Skye, The Highland Railway, and the Great North of Scotland Railway, and all available Tours in Scotland. CAYGILL'S IRISH TOURS are so arranged as to meet the requirements of all Tourists, and available to and through Ireland, and cover every point of interest in that country. CAYGILL'S CONTINENTAL TOURS, to HOLLAND, BELGIUM, and the RHINE, via HARWICH and ROTTERDAM, or HARWOE and- ANTWWERP. CAYCILL'S CONTINENTAL TOURS, by Short Sea Mail Routes, via FOLKESTONE and BouLOGNE (83 hours Paris), iDover and Calais (103 heurs Paris), and Dover and Ostend, to all parts of the Continent of Europe and the East. CAYGILL'S CONTINENTAL TOURS, by SHORTEST and QUICKEST ROUTE, via NEWHAVEN, DIEPPE, and ROUEN, to all parts of the Continent, Paris, Switzerland, Italy, &c., &c. CAYGILL'S PERSONALLY-CONDUCTED PARTIES TO PARIS, every Week during Season. CAYGILL'S PERSONALLY-CONDUCTED PARTIES TO FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, HOLLAND, the RHNE, BELGIUM, &c., &c., every Week during Season. CAYGIhb'S iNDEPENDENT AN)O PERSONAILY-CONDUCTED PARTIES TO iHE EAST, are ite most select and complete, and embrace facilities to EGYPT, THE NILE, PALESTINE, TURKEY, GREECE, RUSSIA, &c., &C. CAYGILL'S TOURIST ARRANGEMENTS TO AND THROUGH AMERICA. Through Tickets from all parts of England to all pfrts of America,available by CUNARD, INMAN, WHITE STAl, AMERICAN, ALLAN, GUION, NATIONAL, ANCHOR, STATE, &C., &C. CAYGILL'S TOURIST CHRONICLE AND EXCURSION ADVERTISER. Published twelve times during Season. Send for a copy. O. H. CAYGLL, TOURIST MANAG ER. Chief Office, 371 West Strand, London, W. C. -.....,'iBRANCH OFFICES: LONDON-32 4CCAD4.l iI — CGR Iu W. HUDDERSFIELD-3 Lord Street (Mr. largreaves LEEDS-141 Briggate. Thompson). BRADFORD)-47 Old Market (opposite Exchange DEWSBURY-Stamp Office (Mr. B. Bulmer). Tower). OLDHAM-27 High Street (Mr. J. T. Hlargreaves). MANCHESTER-4 Brown Street. ROCHDALE-2 Lord Street (M. A. Smith). BIRMIHAM-Union Passage (Mr. J. F. Brame). EDINBURGH-" Regent " Hotel (Mr. Darling). LIVERPO-4 Hall Street. HULL-8 Albion Street (Mr. Guy Hayler). SIEFFIEL! lir^fsHill. 80UTHP'QRT- 6 Devonshire Buildings (Messrs. J qO'IrTINGHAM-.Thurlattd Street. Sargeaut & Co.). WAKEFIELD-" Mxpress " Office, Southgate. lBOLTON-Guardian Office (Mr. T. Cunliffe). HALIFAX-The Square (Mr. J. I. Learoyd). CONTINENTAL OFFICES: r PA-R-[3 RU ME jBBBREBA, GMAR GAD OPERA GENRVA-2 Grand Quai. i NAPL S —Hotel Royal des- Etangei-4r. BRCSSELS-63 Rue Neuve. A. G. Caprani. I-OMIE —10 and 11 PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. GENERAL REPRESENTATIVE IN AMERICA. E. M. JENJ1S, 2; 6 BIOADWAY (P.O. BOX 425U), NEW YORK. 24 LIVERPOOL. ADELPHI HOTEL. This old-established Family Hotel, having been entirely rebuilt and refurnished, is now one of the largest in Europe. It contains nearly 300 Sleeping-Rooms, about 50 Parlors, an elegant Drawing-Room, a spacious Smoking-Room in front, Restaurant, Visitors' and Luggage Lifts, Billiard-Room with six Tables, &c., &c. The corridors on each floor are of fire-proof construction, and fire extinguishers are laid throughout the building. The Hotel is centrally situated, is near the Railways, Landing Stage, and places of amusement, and has for upward of fifty years been exclusively patronized by the leading families of Great Britain, Canada, and the United States. Carriages of all descriptions constantly in attendance. Post and Telegraph Offices in the Hotel. A porter in livery attends all trains by the Great Northern, Manchester, Sheffield, Lincolnshire, and Midland Railways, and other stations if requested. All letters and telegrams to be addressed to W. LUDLOW, Manager. DUBLIN. SWITZER, FERGUSON, & CO., 91, 92, 93 G-rafton Street, General Drapers, Silk M erces, & General Oufitters, IRISH SPECIALTIES, FRIEZES, TWEEDS, BALBRIGGAN HOSIERY, LACES, LINENS, BO-OAK & SPAR ORNAMENTS. SCOTT'S OLD ENGLAND HOTEL, BOWNESS BAY, WINDERXERE. This well-appointed Hotel, patronized by the aristocracy and lite of American tourists, is now open for the reception of visitors. The grounds extend to the Lake, on the margin of which are constructed excellent private boat landings. It is surrounded by the loveliest scenery in this far-famed district, and within easy distance of the various mountains, lakes, and waterfalls. The cuisine is perfect, and the cellars stocked with the choicest vintages. The district coaches leave this Hotel dail in the, season, and private conveyances may be had on the shortest notice. Billiards, Hot and Cold Baths, Croquet. St. Martin's Windermere Parish Church is ad acent, and contains a splendid Chancel Window from Furness Abbey. The homes of Wordsworth, Coleridge, and other celebrities, are within an easy drive. Omnibuses attend all trains, and also at the Steam Yacht Pier, Bowness Bay, in connection with trains from Carnforth, Grange, Furness Abbey, and Ulverstone. Visitors are requested to note that Windermere Station is one mile and a half from Windermere Lake. 25 SHE- LOURNBM HFOTEL. StoeDhon's Green. Dublin. IrelanA. THE GROSVENOR HOTEL, Chester, England. (IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY.) _ - This magnificent Hotel is now open to the public, fnd, having been entirely rebuilt nnd furnished in the most elegant style, will be found one of the most convenient in the Kingdoln. A large COFFEE-ROOM; BILLIARD-ROOM; also, a spacious and convenient COMMERCIAL-ROOM, to which every attention will be paid; a LADIES' COFFEE-ROOM, for the convenience of Ladies and Families; elegant and spacious BALL-ROOM; all the BEDROOMS are large and. beautifully furnished. Stabling for eighty horses. An Omnibus attends the Trains, taking Families Free to and from the Hotel. GEORGE HOTEL, MELROSE, NOW TH:E George and Abbolsford Hotel. Altered by special permission from the Honorable J. MAXWELL SCOTT, of Abbotsford. This Hotel, after extensive alterations and additions, such a LADIES' DRAWING-ROOM, WRITING-ROOM, SMOKING-ROOM, BILLIARD-ROOM, LAVATORIES, &c., &c., is now ready for visitors. The magnificett view from the windows overlooking the Abbey is unsurpassed in Scotland. The Hotel isalso fitted with Pneumatic Bells, and every improvement necessary for a first-class Hotel. Only two minutes' walk from the Station, and the same from the Abbey. The charges are not mre than in secnd-class houses. MBlx.os, Jan. 15, 187T. BARCELTONAA....... R -__ IL... HOTEL FOUR NATIONS, Elegant first-class House, situated, with full southern exposure, on the Rainbla-the fashionable promenade. Kept on the American plan, at a certain rate per day. Messrs. FORTIS & CO., Proprietors. 2 OXFORD.-OLARDNDON HOTL. Situated in the most central part of the City, and near to the principal Colleges and places of interest to visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find this Hotel replete with every comfort. Spacious Coffee-Rooms. Private Sitting and Bed Rooms en suite. Guides always in attendance. Job and Post Horses. Fashiona)le Open and Close Carriages. Good Stabling and Commodious Coach Houses. Wedding Equipages with Postilions. JOHN P. ATTWOOD, Proprietor. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. (Royal Route, via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) TIME ROYAL MAIL STEAMBRS COI,UMBA, CLANSMAN, IONA, LIOCHIEL, CHEVALIEt N GLENGARRY, GLENCOE, MOUNTAINEER, ISLAY, CtIYDESDALE, FINGAL,! LINNET, STAFFA, LOCHAWE, PIONEER, CYGNET, GONDOLIER. PLOVER, QUEEN OF THE LAKE, And INVERARAY CASTLE, Sail during the Season for Islay, Oban, Fort William, Inverness, Staffa, Iona, Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ross-shire, Ulapool, Lochinver, and Stornoway; Aflording Tourists an opportunity of Visiting the Magnificent Boenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Oorisk, Loch Maree, and the Famed Islands of Staffa and Iona. Circular Tourist Tickets afe issued on board in connection with the various Railways. W- Thiesd vesseli afford in their passage a view of-the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, with all its watering-places the Island and Kyles of Bute; Island of Arran Mountains f Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre; Lochfyne; drinan, with the Islands of Jura, Scaria, Mull, andnmany others of the Western Sea; the Whirlpool of Corryvrechan; the Mountains of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kingairloch. and Ben-Nevis; Inverlochy; the Lands of Lochiel-the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near to where the Clans raised his standar in '45; Lochaber the Caledonian Canal; Loch Lochy; Loch Oich; Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the celebrated Falls of Foyers. Books descriptiv4 of the route may be had on board the steamers. Time-Bills with Maps sent, post free, on application to the Proprietor, DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119 HOPE STREET, GLASGOW. Glasgow, 1880. 28 RAILWAY HOTEL, LAKES OF KILLAItEY Patronized by their I. M. the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, and H. R. H. the Duke of Connaught, during their respective visits to Killarney in 1877. This Hotel-the largest in the Lake District-occupies the most central position for visiting the various points of interest, and possesses the necessary appointments-Carriages, Boats, Guides, &c.-for the purpose. Its proximity to the Railway Station enablesvisitors to proceed on excursions immediately on their arrival by train. Fixed and moderate charges. No gratuities. G. J. CAPSEY, Manager. HENRY C.APT, 151 REGENT STREET, LONDON. FACTORY IN GENEVA, 17 RUE DU RHONE. Correspondents in the Principal Cities of Europe and America. Watches of Al Kinds, Self-winding Chronometers and Half Chronometers. Repeaters, Fifth-fSecond orse Timers, and Pfain Watches. Ladies' Watches, plain or richly decorated. Every watch guaranteed. ~EXTENSIVE STOCK OF JEWELRY, Paintings on Enamel, Portraits, S4ging Birds. The choice in this establishment is so varied, so beautiful, and so much cheaper than in America, that the opportunity of purchasing should not be lost. Branch in NEW YORK, No. 23 Union Square. PARIS, 22 Rue de la Paix. N ICE, 3 Jardin Publique. 2.. \. s. \9 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. THE LAKE HOTEL, ASTLE-LOUGH. J _ASS COIEEf3I - - - P- roprietor. It is essential to apprise tourists that there is, at Kiflarney, but oe establishent called " E LAE HOTEL." It is situate in the Bay of Castle-Lough, on the Eastern Shoreof the Lower Lake, in the centre of the varied scenery of the Lake and within ten minutes' drive of the Railway Station. It accommodates one hundred persons. Forty of the Bedrooms and Sitting-Rooms face the Lake. The waterS of the Lake approach the hall door, and hence the distinctive title "THE LAKE HOOTEL." Boats and vehicles of every description supplied at fixed and moderate prices. No gratuities allowed to drivers, boatmen, &c., as they are paid ample wages by the proprietor. The Lake Hotel Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of the trains. See that it bears the name "J. COFFEE." N. B.-It is necessary to inform tourists that the Railway Company, proprietors of the Railway Hotel in the town, send upon the platform as touters for their Hotel the porters, boatmen, car-drivers, and guides in their employment, and exclude the servants of the Hotels on the Lake, who will, however, be found in waiting at the Station Door. OXFORD. H O T EL -9:CH AT HAtM, HOLZSCHUCH, Proprietor. PLACE VENDOME. 67 Rue Nve. St. Augustin, BOULEVARD RUE DE LA PALI. PARS. DES CAPUCINEB. LIVERPOOL. C;O M P TON H OTL EL, Compton House, Churh Street, This magnificent building, now the most central Hotel in Liverpool, contains 250 rooms, handsomely furnished with every modern Luxury and Home Comfort; Private Suites of Rooms; spacious Coffee-Room or Saloon, with the Ladies' Drawing-Room adjoining; also the largest and finest Billiard and Smoking Rooms in the city. Adjacent to the several railway termini and river landing-stages. N. B.-A porter in livery attends all trains by the Great Northern, Manchester, Sheffield and Lincolnshire, and Midland Railways. All letters and telegrams addressed to WILLIAM RUSSELL, Proprietor. 31 PARIS. Place and Boulevard de a adeleine. Entrance No. Rue de la Ferme-des-Mathurins, and Place de la Made lne No. 18. RECENTLY MIUTCH ENLARGED.S All the apartments have a SOUTHERN ASPECT, fronting on the BBolevards and Place de la Madeleine. Rooms from three francs upward. READING-ROOM, DIVANS, BATH- ROOMS, &c. This beautiful hotel is one of the best situated in all Paris. Every thing is arranged in such a manner as to make families and single gentlemen feel perfectly at home. At 6 o'clock there is a first-class table d'hote at five francs, including a good wine. Breakfasts and dinners served in the apartments a la Carte, and at fixed prices. FOREIGN AND NATIVE WINES OF THE BEST QUALITY. LOWER LAKP4rBOO TIIB BOYAL VICTORIA hOTEL, KILLARNEY. THE-ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL, KILLARNEY, IRELAND. The Royal Victoria Hotel is situated on the Lower Take, close to the water's edge, within ten minutes' drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. 'This Hotel, which is lighted with gas manufactured on the promises, has been much enlarged-a magnificent Coffee-Room, a public Drawing-Room for Ladies and Families, Billiard and SmokingRooms, and several suites of private apartments lacing the lake, having been recently added. T:ble d'Hote during the Season. Hot and Cold Baths. r Cars, arriages, Boats, Ponies, and Guides, at fixed moderate charges. Drivers, Boatmen, and Guides are paid by the Proprietor, and are not allowed to solicit gratuitie. The Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend the Trains. s2 MBS. JOHN 0'LEARY, Proprietor. PARIS. GRAND HOTEL DE L'ATHENEE, 15 RUE SCKIBE. VAUTIER, Director.; u 5 C;l' ~ — X_-,w Travelers are informed that they will find in the Hotel an Elevator; BathRooms on each floor; Restaurant i la Carte; Two Private Dining-Rooms; Public Parlor; Billiard and Smoking Rooms; a Reading-Room. PRINTED TARIFF FOR THE ROOMS. PAR. R S. HOTEL BINDA, AVENUE DR L'OPERA. Entrance, No. 11 Rue de PEchelle. i Most Central Situation in Paris. Large and Small Apartments; Bath-Room, Reading-Room, Smoking-Room, Lift, &c. American and French Cuisine; American Breakfasts and Specialties. Under Management of the Proprietor, Mr. CH. BINDA, Formerly Manager at Delmonico's, New York. 33 LHERBETTE, KANE, & CO., AME-RICAN BANKERS AND FORWARDING AGENTS, 19 RU SCR I BE, 19, PARIS. AGENTS FOR THE STEAMERS FROM HAVRE TO NEW YORK PACKAGES AND MERCHANDISE FORWARDED BY EVERY STEAMER TO NEW YORK. ]HENRY C(APT, No. 22 Rue de la Paix, Paris. FACTORY IN GENEVA, 17 RUE DU RHONE. Correspondents in the Principal Cities of Europe and America...- Watches of All Kinds, Self-winding Chronometers and Half Chronometers. Repeaters, Fifth-of-Second Horse-Timers, and Plain Watches. Ladies' Watches, plain or richly decorated. Every watch guaranteed. EXTENSIVE STOCK OF JEWELRY, Paintings on Enamel, Portraits, Singing Birds. The choice in this establishment is so varied, so beautiful, and so much cheaper than in America, that the opportunity of purchasing should not be lost. Branch in NEW YORK, No. 23 Union Square. " NICE, 3 JardWiPubliqe. " LONDON, 22 Sackville Street. 34 *- - e PARIS. —24, Avenue des Champs-1E1ysees, 24.-PARIS.' First Gold M~Jedal /n ATTHIE Unversal Ex. position ofI 1867. This house has obtained the 'highest prizes accorded to Carriage manufacturers at the Universal Expositions of LO-DO-I>51, Laudaulet ou Coup4-Landau (brevet6 B. g. d. g.) PARIS, 1855, Landaulet ou Coup6-L9Adau (brovet6 s. g. d. g.) (vO~usE 5I~M5~.)LONDON, 1862, —PARIS, 1867. (ovss u~n. This new carriage, which 'is constructed for two or four persons, andf which cari"be' pened and closed when desired, like a Landau, has obtained a great success. It is ligaht for.-a single hlrse* eceedingly practical, and very elegant. B13A-~TFEIS OF DIV-\OI*NNE,*T s' drive from O-RDNIYVA. E-4 E0 0 0 %O% LL VVM/ I = M.#~jM= lEstablishmen t fotundedl in 1-849, by IPA-Ul- MIA T V. ]D., ~CHEVALIER DE LA LEGION D'HONNEUR ET DX LORDRE DES SS. MAURICE ET LAZARE. HOTJEL BELLE VUE, PARIS. 39 Avenue de 1'Opera, 8 Rue d'Autin, PARIS. READING AND SAMOK NG ROOMS, LIFT, &c My. L. HAUSHR5?ROPIUTR;$j of Wales and Prince Alfred-is without question the largest and best situated Establishment in the town for Families and Tourists who are visiting merely the celebrated Castle, or for making a longer stay, being near all the attractive points, and at the foot of the Castle. The Hotel is conducted on the most liberal scale, under the personal superintendence of the Proprietors, lMessrs. SOMMEIl & ELLMElI. PAR IS. to the Washington Ct" ib ENGLS H- - FIRST OF THE HOU:SES.: NO I Place deo 4u ub V 4 37 BR SSE LS. HOTEL DE L'IUNIVELIS. LEsANT, FIRST-LASS HOUBEE, Situated in. the Cexntre of the City, between the, Two Railway Stations. ' UiseP ximity to the Theatres and Boouevars. Entirely refitted, with Garden and adjoining Parlors, Read:gand Smoking-Rooms. ',WATERLOO -OAtCH AT 9.30 A.M. Entrance on the Boulevard du Nord. Madame SCHOEFFTER-WIERTZ, Proprietor. 8 RUSS EL S. GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE,, 77 and 79 RUJE NEUVE. Admirably situated, near the Boulevards audiTheatres, and two minutes' walk from the Northern Railway Station. h9Sl Establishment offers t families and single travellers spacions, comfortable, and airy apartments.' TARIFFS IN EVERY ROOM. FIXED PRICES.-Plalnbreakfast, 1 fr. 25 c.; two chops or steak, or'am and eggs, 1 fr. 60 c. Table d'Hote at five o'clock, 3 frs. 50 c.; Table d'Hote at half-past six, 6 fro. Private dinners, from S frs. Bed-rooms, including light,4 frs. 28 c.; 8 frs. 75 c.; 6 frs. for the first night, and for the following night 8 fros. 80 c.f; 8 fr; s., and 4 frs. Sitting-rooms, from 8 frs. to 12 frs. Attendance, 1 ft. pez'nttlfL r London Timen and Illustrated Lo k U Jlen in. Travellers having only a few hours to spend in Brussels, between the departure of the trains, can have Refreshments or Dinners t any hour. M.:;3NR7Y KERVAND, Proprietor. HOTEL VICTORI BADEN-BADEN,:. Gt OL,O:, Prolpietor. This first-class Hotel is beautiftllly ta 0* iiedate vicinity of the promenade and conversationhouse, and contains 14 ro and saloons f private families and single persons. The tablnd wines are f the very bestpric ere. Table dhote, 5 o'clock. - ISH SOK _BY L ERVANT. HOE B:O, Dresden. Manager, l-:3 BISTEI. Situated on the River Elbe, facing the iew Opera-House, the Galleries, the Green Vaults, Cathedral, and BrQhl's Terrace. Well-known, frst-class Establishment, with 150 rooms. Families desirotiftk ment for the winter-ea minak fsgements at very moderate prices. f ' S;; ' CROWN HOTEL, Scarboro', Beautifully situated on the Cliff, contiguous to the Spa, Sands, Cliff-Bridge. and Pleasure Grounds. JOSEPH WILLIAMSON, Proprietor. PARIS. PORT, SHERRY, CHAMPAGNE. BURGUNDIES, LIQUEURS, CLARETS. ENGLISH, IRISH, AND SCOTCH WHISKIES. JOHN ARTHUR & CO., WINE MER;CANTS, BANKEIRS, HOUSE AD ESTATE -AGENTS, 10 RUE CASTIGLIONE, --- PARIS. ESTABLISHED FORTY-NINE YEARS. 39 CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. TOIUIRS IN, SCOTLAND. THE CALEDONIAN RAILWAY COMPANY have arranged a system of TOURS by Rail, Steamer, and Coach, comprehending almost every place of interest, either for scenery or historical (Scatlo|s, throughout Scbtland, including Edlbb, (Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Inverness, Greenock, Pai e unries, Peebles, tirling, Perth, Crieff, Dunkeld, Oban, Inveraray, the Trosachs, Loeh-Katrine, Loch-Lomond, Loch-Earn, Loch-Tay, Loch-Awe, Caledonian Canal, Glencoe, Iona, Staffa, Skye, Balmoral, Braemar, Arran, Bute, the Firth of Clyde, the Falls of Clyde, &c., &c. 99 TOURISTS are recommended to procure a copy of the Caledonian Railway Company's "Tourist Guide," which can be had at any of the Company's Stations, and also at the chlief Stations on the Londqu and Nh. Wgstern Railway, and which contains descriptive notices of the Districts embracaed n theb ttrs, Maps,'Plans, Bird's-eye View, &c. Tickets for these-Tours —about 70 in number- are issued at the Company's Booking Offices at all the large Stations. The Caledonian Company also issue Tourist Tickets to the Lake District of England, the Isle of Man, Connemara, the Lakes of Killarney, &c. The Calcdonian Railway, in conjunction with the London and North-Western Railway, forms w4at. is known as the WEST COAST ROYAL MAIL ROUTE BETWEEN SCOTLA.ND AND ENGLAXND, By which her Majesty the Queen travels on her way between Windsor and her Highland Home at Balmoral, and by which the Mails are conveyed. DIRECT TRAINS RUN FROM AND TO Glasgow, Edinburgh, Greenock, Pailey, Stirling, Oban, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other places in Scotland;.; TO AND FROM London (EXuton, trming ham, Liverpool, Manchester, Le s, Bradford, anxd other plates in England. SLEEPING AND DAY SALOON CARRIAGES. THROUGH GUARDS AND CONDUCTORS. The Caledonian Company's Trains fromand to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, &c., connect at Greenock and Wemyss Bay with the ''Iona;" "Columba," "Lord of the Isles," "Gael," and other steamers, to and from IDunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Largs, Millport, the Kyles of Bute, Arran, Camn eltown, Ardrishaig, Ipver;ry, ooh-Goil, oh-Long, &c.,;;. A full service of Trains is also run from and to Glasgow; to and from Edinburgh, Stirling, Perth, Oban, Dundee, Aberdeen, and the North; and from and to Edinburgh, to and from these places. For partulars of Trains, Fares, Ac., see the Caledonian Railway Company's Time Tables. GENERAiL MANAGER'S OFFICE, JAMES SMITHELLS, GLASOOW, 1880. General Mane. 40; SOUTHEASTERN RAILWAY. (London, Folkestone, and Dover.) ROYAL MAIL AND SHORT SEA ROUTES. Folkestone and Boulogne, Dover and Calais, Dover and Ostend. SIX CONTINENTAL SERVICES DAILY. Termini in London: Charing Cross (West End) and Cannon Street (City). LONDON AND PARIS IN 82 HOURS, BY SPECIAL EXPRESS, DAILY, (Tidal trains via Folkestone and Boulogne, saving in distance 28 miles), and by the MAIL TRAINS AND PACKETS, via Calais and Dover, IN: 10 HOURS. SEA PASSAGES, NINETY MIINUTES. Brussels, Cologne, Berlin, St. Petersburg, Vienna, Munich, Naples, Turin, Venice, Rome, Brindisi, Marseilles, and most of the chief Continental Cities and Towns, with equally quick travelling. Through Tickets Issued and Baggage Registered. LONIDOIN A2_ND PAIRIS, VIA FOLKESTONE AND BOULOGNE. THRIIOUGI RATES FOR ORDINARY PARCELS AND MEERCHAN DISE, by Passenger (Grantde Vitesse) Trains, under the direct sanction and control of the Southeastern and Northern of France Railway Companies. The Rates include all Charges for Shipping, Landing, &c. (Customs Duties excepted), at the respective portS, and delivery at either end (within the usual limits). Parcels forwarded by this service from London in the afternoon are delivered the following day in Paris, where the Customs Examination takes place, thus avoiding any detention at Boulogne. _ PareesI are also forwarded by this route to all the; Principal Towns on the Coittinent, and from all the Principal Towns In the North of England and Scotland, and vice ver. s! ' Special Through Tariffs for Bullion and Value Parcels to and from Paris, Belgium, lolland, &c., including all chal'ges for Shipping, Customs Formalities, &Ec. are alsoiu operation. Rates for Insurance of Valte Parcels-aich as Plate,Jewelry, s, I &c., &Ci-agaiust sea and all other risks. aW BOOKS OF THBES. TARIFFS COMPLETE ON APPLICATION. The SOUTHEASTERN RAILWAY (hy Special Appointment to the General PostOffice) conveysthe MALLS FOR TE CON'tNNT IDIA, C A, and the COLONtIES, via the MONT CENIS and BRINDISL Through Tickets are issued to Pasengers for the Principal Cities and Towns in BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, AUSTRIA GRAY, RUSSIA, ITALY, &c. A GE N C I ES. PARIS, 4 Boulevard des Italiens. COLOGNE, 1 Friedrich Wilhelm trasse. BRUSSELS, 74 Montague de la Cour. CALAIS, A. Darquer, Chemin de For BOUL0GNE, Henry Farmer, Quai BOna- du Nord. parte. OSTEND, X Uytborck, Ruo St. Georges. 41 TeGreat Western Ralway Co, OF ENGLAND, Issue Tickets between Liverpool, Birkenhead, Holyhead, &c., via Chester, to London and the South of England by three routes, viz.: 1. THE ROYAL (OXFORD). ROUTE through Chester and the Valley of the Dee, the Vale of tlangollen, Shrewsbury, Birmingham, Warwick, Leamington (tbr Stratford-on-Avon and Kenilworth), Oxford, Woodstock, Reading, and Slough (for Windsor-the route taken by Her Majesty the Queen in traveling between Windsor and Balmoral)..Paseger|s holding Through Tickets may break their journey at Wawick or Leamington, to visit Stratford-on-Avon and Kenilworth, and at Oxford to visit the Colleges, &c. 2. THE WORCESTER ROUTE from Chester to Shrewsbury, and thence through the Severn Valley, Worcester, Evesham, Honeybourne (for Stratford-onAvon), Oxford, Reading, and Slough (for Windsor). 3. THE HEREFORD AND GLOUCESTER ROUTE from Chester to Shrewsbury, through Ludlow, Hereford, Ross, the Valley of the Wye, Gloucester (for Cheltenham), the Stroud Valley, Reading, and Slough (for Windsor). At Gloucester, the line, running through the whole of South Wales, and forming the direct route between London and the South of Ireland, the Lakes of Killarney, &c., branches out of the main line. Saloon and Family Carriages (reserved) may be' obtained at 24 hours' notice, for parties of not less than eight persons. Tickets may be obtained at the Great Western Office, James Street, Liverpool, or on board the Railway Boats plying between the Liverpool Landing Stage and Birkenhead. Passenger's should be careful to ask for "Great.WVestern Tickets." During the Summer moithstlIourist Tickets (avaiIable for 2 months)are issued, enabling the holders to briLktlieir. Journey at all places of interest, at a lsmnl increase upon the ordinary fares; also, 'lickets for "Circular Tours" by Rail and Coach through the most picturesque parts of Wales (North and South). Programmes of the arrangements are published monthly, and may be obtained at any station or from the undrsi!gned. To the Tourist and the Antiquiarian the Great Western Railway possesses features of interest unequaled by any other Railway in the United Ringdom. It affords convenient and, in many instances, the only Railway access to places sought after from the historical associations connected with them, such as Chester, Shrewsbury (with Uriconium, the ancient Roman city and battle-field, within an easy ride), Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon, Kenilworth, Oxford, Worcester, Ludlow, Hereford, Woodstock, Windsor, and many other places of note, all reached by the Great Western route; while the scenery of North and South Wales, the Valley f:tlhe Wye, &C., through which the Railay passes, is unsurpassed in Great Britain. Timte-bokg^ Mals,&c., are silpied' tte steamships running between England and America, and they will be forwarded free of charge, to any part of America, to all persons aptpling for tile same t the undersigned, of whom full pticularsas t trans,:fqsal d other arrangemnts may bq obtainme.?. RIERSO ea eneraTl M.er.PADZDiGTb STATION;, X>bO^-. " ' ' " * * A~ ~ " 421"** *.: 't~ll London! and Nolr Weste Railw wy, The Shortest ENGTL AND 10 Express Trains Each Week Day. Route by 26 Miles. Time occupied, 4 hours 50 min. LIVERPOOL (Lime St. Station) to LONDON (Euston Station), QUEENSTOWN, OORK, and DUBLIN, to LONDON via HOLYHEAD. The London and North-Western Railway Company's Through Booking and Carrying Arrangements extend over the greater portion of the United Kingdom, the Company's Railway being -he Royal Mail Route. Its Main Lines run from LONDON to LIVERPOOL, LEEDS, CARLISLE, MANCHESTER, CARDIFF, HOLYHEAD, BIRMINGHAM, SWANSEA. And are connected with IRELAND by magnificent Steamers running between HOLYHEAD and DUBLIN, HOLYHEAD and GIEENORE, FLEETWOOD and BtILFIP id STRAUREAR and LARUE.: R: - X i Passengers from the United States intending to visit Europe are informed that THROUGH TICKETS for the portion of the journey across England by the London and North-Western Railway (the direct route from Liverpool [Lime Street Stationl to l,odon) are obtainalle at any of the.offices of the TRANSATLANTIC STEAMlSHIP CO1IPANIES IN NEW- YORK< AND0 BOSTON. LIVERPOOL TER11IINUS.-At Liverpool (one of the termini of the line) arrangements of a most complete character have been made for dealing with passengers to and from America, naswell as their baggage. On arrival in Liverpool, carts will be foundin readiness to convey passengers' baggage to the Lime Street Station, the scale of charge in oitatiqpbeing regulated by a tariff laid down by the:municipal authorities. The Company have representatives appointed to meet the steamers on arrival in Liverpool, and to act on the instructions of the passengers with reference to the transit of their baggage. A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL, "The North-Western," containing upwards of two hundred bedrooms, with spacious coffee-room, availablefor ladies and gentlemen, and replete with every accommodation, adjoins this terminus. EXPRESS TRAINS, at frequent intervals, leave for London (which is reached in 4 hours and 50 minutes), Manchester, Birmingham, the English Lake District, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and all parts of the Kingdom. At Liverpool, Lime Street terminus, through tickets can be obtained for allparts ofthe United Kingdom, either for tours or single journeys. Passengers wishing to make arrangements for continental journeys can obtain every information at Messrs. GAZE & SON'S branch offices at the Lime Street Station, or at the head office in London, 142 Strand. Passengers desiring to obtain information in Liverpool respecting the London and North-Western Railway should apply to Mr. JAMES SHAW, the district superintendent at Lime Street Station; or to Mr. I. B. LOVELAND, American Passenger Agent to the Company, Lime Street Station. IRISH MAIL TO LONDON.-The Cunard, Inman, and other lines of steamers put in at Queenstown, and by alighting at this place, American passengers can- ayail themselves of the Irish mail trains by the Great Southern and Western Railway to Dublin, and'thence proceed to Kingstown, the port from which the magnificent steam-vessels of the City of Dublin Company leave for Holyhead, where on landing the passengers can at once seat themselves in the splendidly equipped carriages of the London and North-Western Company's celebrated Irish mail ttaln for London. Express Passenger Steamers (day and night service) also leave Dublin (North Wall) for Holyhead on week days, in connection with Fast Trains to Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, London. and all parts of the L. & N. W. system. KENILWORTH AND WVARWICK. —The Irish mail trains from Holyhead, and the express trains from Liverpool, afford a rapid service to Birmingham. Kenilworth and Warwick are easily reached by the trains from New Street Station, Birmingham. LONDON TER1MIN US.-The London terminus of the London and North.Western Railway is at Euston Square, and there are two hotels for the accommodation of fimilies and gent tleown immediately adjoining the station-one, the "Victoria,' on the western side, and the "',Eustou, on the eastern side of the entrance. SLEEPING SALOONS.-Sleeping Saloons, fitted with every convenience for night travels ling, are run by the Irish, the Liverpool, and the Scotch mail trains. S ALO S CABRIAGiES, iPthout extra charge, provided with Lavatory aeeommdtion, are run daily on the 11.00 A.M. and 4.00 P.M. trains from LIVERPOOL to LONDON, for the accommodation: First Class Pssengers, and will be found very convenient for Ladies and Fmaily Partle. Ldl may trrav e specially reserved Compartments. SIMILAt CARRIAGES, on receipt of a telegram fotm Queenstown, addresed to the Station Master, Lime Street, Liverpool. or on personal application to the London ad lNorth-Western Company's reprentative, n arrival at Liverpool, will be attaihed to any of the Through Trains from Lvrp for Paties bf Seven lFit aenges sad UpwBrds without extra charge. For informiation respecting trains, fares, &c., apply to Mr..; P. NEELE, Superintendent of the Line, Ruston Stations: or to Mr. I. B. LOVELAND, American Passenger Agent to the Company, Lime Street Station; or to Mr. L. J. TROWBRIDGE, Passenger Agent, 415 Broadway, New York. The London and North-Western Railway Company have also through booking arrangements for parcels and goods traffic from Liverpool and Holyhead to all the principal towns in the Kingdom and on the Continent. Full p Urtlnarsa athAsth * otslnig of M:r. TAOS. KA, Clefoos Manager, Musn Station. EDITOsr SvinosxeLo Xi. WGEOR1. PIXPLAY,} Ogne ol X.wagr. - ~ci rrrrrrrrrri~ga 43 DREA E BAUM v COMPANY The SHORTEST, CHEAPEST, and BEST: Route to HOLLAND, BELGIUM, GERMANY, THE RHINE, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA, ITALY, &c., Via HAWICH, ROTTERDAM, & ANTWERP. The service of this Company is by Express Boat-trains between London and Harwich, leaving Liverpool Street Station each night at a fixed hour, and, by steamers in connection therewith, running between Harwich and Rotterdam and Antwerp. The steamers are among the finest running between England and the Continent, having all been specially built for this service. The depth of water at Harwich, Rotterdam, and Antwerp is such that the large steamships of the Company are enabled to come alongside the Quays at all states of the tide,; The steamers are fiom 700 to 1100 tons measurement, and of great speed. Owing to the directness of the route, the fares are lower than by, any other first-class route. - The through ticket and tourist arrangements by this route are the most complete of any service to the Continent. Luggage can be: registered through from Liverpool Street Station. Londo West-End Booking Office, 28 Regent Circus, Piccadilly. Goods and parcels are carried at low through rates to all parts of the Continent. 'or Time-Tables and all information, apply to the Con it r c Ianaser, eLinool Street Station, Lono, E C,;.r-s Londlln, Bilbtoi,&SSGIII UastBllwIay. LONDON BRIDGE (General City Station). VICTORIA (General West End Station, near to Buckingham Palace). KENSINGTON (West End Station). THE SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN LONDON 01 D THE SEA COiST OF [fiGLAD, ALSO THE SHORTEST AND OEAPBEST ROUTE BETWEEN LONDON AND -PARIS. Daily Service from London Bridge and Victoria Stations, In connection with splendid New Steamers between NEWHAVEN AND DIEPPE. Through Tiiets available to stop on the way at Brigaton, Dieppe, Rouen, &c. Spacious Hotels and Restaurants at London Bridge and Victoria Stations, also at Newhaven and Dieppe Harbors. GENERAL INQUIRY AND BOOKING OFFICES At 28 Regent Circus, Piccadilly, and 8 Grand Hotel Ruilld ngs, (under the Grand Hotel) Trafalgar Square. Also at W. F. Gillig & Co.'s American Exchange and Readin.g-ltoomns, 449 Strand. Time-Books and every information may be obtaiued. DIRECT TRAINS TO BRIGHTON (the Queen of English Watering-Places), also to WORTHING, EASTBOURNE, ST. LEONARDS, HASTINGS, SOUTHSEA, the ISLE F0 WIGET, &. Special facilities for visits to these beautiful localities during all seasons of the year. CRYSTAL PALACE.-Trains frequently from London Brdge and Victoria Stations-the best and cheapest route. BOXHILL, DORKING, &c.-Beautiful and romantic scenery. Trains from London Bridge and Victoria-only a short journey of about twenty miles. Return Tickets issued from London Bridge are available to return to Victoria, or vice versa. ISLE OF WIGHT RETURN TICKETS for eight days to Ryde, Oowes, and Newport; for Osborne (Her Majesty's Marine Residence), Carisbrooke Castle, and Sandown, Shanklii, Ventnor, Bonchurch, &c.; also Monthly Tickets. These Tickets enable passengers to break their journey at Portsmouth, the principal Naval Arsenal of England. ' en.rral Office., J. P. K ILGHIT, Lcndon Bridge Station. Goneral anager. 45 UQ~j~ a9T r~ -1 ADOLPHE MUIHLING, PROPRIETOR. The 1lrst, and largest hotel qf the capital. Highly rcmeded. -Well kept, clean and comfortable. EXCTELLENT ' TABLE, D'HOTE 'AND RE'ST"AURANT. IBATHS, BARRIAGES. GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ENGLI-SH NEWSPAPERS AT THE HOTEL. ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. HEIDELBEujRG. GRAND HOEL. Opened- on.,ttiest-of June, 1877. Most beautifully situated on the Promienade, and close to the Railway station. Magnificent view- of the old Castle, Ruins, and the Valle of the Neckar. All modemn im'p~ro'vements. Moderate prices. Satisfactory arrangenmcnt~ Xor a long stay a' ide BACK & WELSCH, Proprietors. B G IR S-DE -LUOHONi, 3.CJ* [L On the prliicipal Promenade. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. S~rvice TABLE D'HOTE AND A LA CARTE.: Handsome Pavilion; Caf06; Complete Apartments for Families, Cercde,,&c., &c. The favorite rendezvous of visitors to Luchon. HARPER'S N4E-W AND "ENLARGED, CATALOGUE, WITH A OO~PLETE ANALYTICAL INDEX, ~Sent by mail on receipt of NiNE CENTS. Addres I~14 BU R OTIIEXIS, Franklin Squart,Nw, JTork. WASIHIINGTO CLUB. (CERCLE FRANCO-AMERICAIN). 4 Place de lOpera, - - PARIS. NOTICE TO MEMBERS OF CLUBS. Any citizen of the United States belonging to a first-class Club, or citiens of Great Britain and Ireland, Members of first-class Ch!in their own country, and not residents of Paris, may be admitted to all the privileges of Membership at the "Washington Club" (with the exception of introducing guests), for a period of eight days, on presentation of any document verifying such Membership. The 'Washington Club" has the most beautiful position in the city of Paris, occupying one side of the Place de l'Opera; on the others are situated the new Opera House, the Grand Hotel, and the Sporting tCub. LAWS AND REGULATIONS OF SHORT: WHIST. ADOPTED BY THEl WASHINGTON CLUB OF PAIRIS. Compiled from the Best Modern Authorities, and as Played in the Principal Glubs of Londn and Paris, and in the First Saloons of both Capital. WITH MAXIMS AND ADVICE FOR BEGINNERS. BY W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, AUTHOR o0 4HARPER'S HAND-BOOKS, "TIE RISE SAND FALL OF THE PARIS COMMUNE," "HARPER'S PHRASE BOOK," ETC. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square. PARIS: GALIGNANI & CO., Rue de Rivoli. LONDON: W. S. ADAS & SONS, 59 Fleet Street. 47 HAVRE. HT IE IL EtDEi L'EU:ROO PRE.. A. it-o. A ass House, hnr te Qr a&d P si.i a: e ntr. Table d'Hote, excellent Cuisine, Smoking and Billiard Rooma The Transatlantic Company's Tickets entitle the traveller to the free transportation of his luggage to the hotel as well as to the station. D.EI P:pEI. HO TEL R O YAL. ON THE BEACH. A Magnificent First-Class House. Open all the Year. LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. Gatroes. HOTEL mONT FLEUtRY. n its beautiful Grounds overlooking the Town., BLELGr-A.rrNT STUITES F03: APARTMENTS. NICE.- HOEL BE LA GRANDE BlRETAGNE,: 5 PLAO DU JARDIN PBLIC. 5 Facing the Promenade des Anglais. HOTEL DE L'ELYSEE, 59 Promenade des Anglais, Under the same Manager, Mr. LAVIT. HAVRE. GRANDP HOTEL FRASCATI. The Best, and the fiest Situated. Facing the Sea. Omnibus and Carriages at the Hotel, Q:OPEN ALL TtI YEAR.; DIEPPE. 0HOTEL DES BAINS. Elegant Fist-las Ho, facing the Sea, and n the Proenade. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. Mr. TAILLEUX, Proprietor. HAVRE. GRAND HOTEL DE NORMANDIE, irst-lass Centre of the City. No. 106 Rue de Paris In the finest quarter, near the Theatre, Exchange, Pier, &c. Railway Ticket Office opposite the hotel. Table d'Hote and Restaurant. ENGLISH SPOKEN. TROUVILLE. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. An elegant, new, First-lass Hotel, opposite the Casino and close to the Beach. TABLE DOWnTE, RESTAURANT, &c. fnglish Spoken. COLOGNE. HOTEL D U NORD. The only first-class Hotel contiguous to the Central Station, the Cathedral, and the Rhine. 300 Rooms and Saloons. Fine view over the Rhine. Garden and Baths. French Cooi. Omibtme at every train. Sale of choic Ihine Wines for exportation, &c. Tariffs In every room. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Over 45,000 visitors stop at this Hotel yearly. Post and Telegraph Office. RAILWAY TICKETS AND LUGGAGE REGISTERED TO ANY DESTINATION IN THE HOTEL. Proprietor, Mr. FRIEDRICH, Purveyor in Rhine Wines to the Emperor of Germany, &c., and Proprietor of the celebrated TAUNUS MINERAL WATER. COLOGNE. JOHN MARIA FARINA, OPPOSITE THE JULICHS-PLLATZ. THE MOST ANCIENT DISTILLER OF THE t EAU DE COLOGNE SINCE 1709. Purveyor to their Majesties the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, the xng of Prussia, the Emperor of Austria, the Emperor of all the lRusias, the Prince of Wales, &c., &c. PRIZE MEDALS IN LONDON 1851 AND X862; HONORABLE MENTION IN PARIS 1855; PRIZE MEDAL IN PARIS 1867, AND VIENNA 1873. C i JtTI N _With regard to the great number of manufactures of a so-called j, * ' Eau de Cologne carried on by people who succeeded in getting a firm of FARINA in order to be able to sell their article, it iS of particular necessity to caution persons who are desirous to purchase my genuine Eau de Cologne, to direct letters to my very exact address: JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GRGENUBER DEM JULICHS-PLATZ (which means opposite the Jiilichs-Place), COLOGNE (without addition of any number). I Travelers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties who offer their servicqs to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated OPPOSITE the Jiilichs-Place, and nowhere else. It happens namely too frequently that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly half the part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, mustpay indirectly tbis remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of impostion is practiced in almost every Hotel m Cologne, where waiters, commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally in my own house OPPOSITE THE JILIICS-PLACB. Johann Maria Farina, COLOG0N, January, 1878. Gegenilber dem Jiiliohs-?latmz ML. BQ:~11I{DE: 0iAIJX. ~I I I i 44 HO TE L DE 7 , II, 1.4, 1.1 11 SI&, NANw,&TVEMo B O RID EA&U X. THE ONLY FIR8T-GLASS;WEJLkCONDIUCTED HOTEL IN' T-HE CiTY. FNELY, SIU TD GN' THE QUA I With View of the City, the varonuw, and the Shipping. GRE AT CHOICEJ FOR- WINES AND COGNACS Of the ~Best vintages of the Principal Growvers, -AT REAI AND WHOLESALE, AND FOR EXPOIRTATION. Mr. ARTHUR B. LAW, Proprietor. I BORDEAUXMlr. EYMEIt-Y 2 Cours de l'Intendance, JEW]I ~ LLFRa. FIXE SETrS OF DIAMONDS. Mar. ME. RI&AYMBEOND, 126 Quai des Chartrous, ngiEsh Prescriptions. English spoken. FOR WVINES ANXD C.OGGNACS Of the B3est Vintages of the G-reat G-rowers, G. DEGOAGE, CAVES (CELLARS) OF THE HOTEL DE NANTES. ~~ ~~1 -13 I Z _A I I aL Large 'Choice of Noxvel, both English and French. GUIDE-BOOKS TO ALL COUNTRIES. VVE. P. CHAUMAS, 34 Cours do Chapeau Rouge. FPINE GROCIORZS, AMERICAN AND ENGLISH PRESERVES. Depot of all First-Class Marksl of Liquors, 14 RTJ1k HUGUERIE, 14. STATIONERY. A.LL ENGLISH FANCY PAPERS ARl TO- BEFOUND AT Kda~iso Mlarohais, 3,.B ~Rue, Stbatherne, &~ LUCERNE, SW-ITZERLAND. r~ — - = - - ----.o-. -- HOTEL SCH WEIZEEHOF, WITH ITS DEPENDENCIES, AND. LUZ E R NE RHO F. First-class Establishments; splendid posifion on the Lake; view of the Righi and Pilate. Apartments for Families and Tourists. Restaurant; Table d'Hote a la carte. HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. NUJREMBtIERG. HOTEL DE BAYVIERE This First-Classnd Superior Hotel, situated in the centre of the town, cldot to t iver hly spoken of by English and American Travelers for its general colmfort and ode a ENGCLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPR.Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses to and from each Train. English Church in the Hotel DIVINE SEERVICE EVERY SUNDAY. is IS. -. TRADE-MARK. In accordance with a decision of the Tribunal Civil de la Seine of the 25th March, 1865, and the Paris Court of Appeal: $U/ * of the 26th April, 1866 (against the Sieur JEAN ItIAlIIA:^ ^ - * FARINA, JulSchsplatz No. 4, maison fondee en 1855); as also {-. of the Tribunal Civil de la Seine of the 4th May, 1877, and of. \ / the Paris Court of Appeal of the 28th June, 1878 (see the 0 \,A- Gazette des Tribunaux of the 7th of May, 1866, and the 19th A.C tK \; M June, 1878), the truth is reached by innumerable arguments -viz: That JOHANN PAUL FEMINIS, lit 1 695 invented Eau de Cologne, and left the Secret of the manufacture only and alone to his nephew, JOHANN ANTON FARINA, CZur Stadt MlTailanud" ("A la Ville de Milan"), Hochstrasse No. 129, Cologne. * KHereby it is therefore established, that neither JOHANN s I MWARIA FARINA, Julichsplatz No. 4, nor JOHANN 4. E laAR1IA FARINA gegeber t Jlic t (according '4 E8 " to his own avowal, founded in 179-theeforefourteen years later than 1695), is the oldest distiller of Eau de Cologne; but that this title lawfully belongs to the undersigned firm, which, through a decision of the Royal Rhenish Court of Appeal in Cologne, of the 1st February, 1879, is alone authorized to adopt and use as trade-mark the likeness of Feminis, taken from an original portrait in their possession. COLOGNE, July, 1879. JOHANN ANTON FARINA, "Zur Stadt Mailand" ("A la Ville de Mlan"), Hochstrasse No. 129, Royal Prussian Court Purveyor, by Diploma of September 27, 1817, and August 27, 1877. N. B.-RED AND BLUE LABEL ON EVERY BOTTLE. 68: HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS (THREE KINGS HOTEL). One of the best Hotels in Europe. Omnibuses at all trains. Mr. FLUCK, Proprietor. HOTXE t;DIXSC-H, COLOGNE. The Hotel Disch in Bridge Street is very highly recommended. It is moat centrally situated, and is much frequented by American and English families and single gentlemen, who experienef equal attention and civility. The Proprietors, Messrs. DIScm & CAPELtEN, have a large assort. ment of the bekt Rhine and Moselle wines for wholesale. -- -- - -infill~~~~~~~.iii..iiiiir1 1-1 --- —.*-. ZURICH Hiotel Baur au Laoe. Magnificent residence on the Lake. Every comfort and attraction. -nsie ble recent enlargements. Grandest Garden in Europe. Mr. Th. BAUR, Proprietor. ROME. QUIRINALE HOTEL, Via Nazionale. pNY:HOTEL IN ROME OF GREAT 'SlE: M:LT EXPRESSLY FOR A HOTEL. Rt Every Moderan- Cofort. (Lift, Ladies' Parlori elading, Smoking, and Cdnversation Rooms, all with southern aspects.) Situated in the largest Street of Rome, on a site selected expressly with a view to healthiness. SCHAFFHAUSEN - NEtSEN - RHINEFALL. SOHWrEZERHOF HOTSEL. i The SonWZTZEBrIoF (1ST1, griaty enlarged) is kndwwn to American travelers as one of the best hotels in Switzerland. Its position, opposite the celebrated "Falls of the Rhine," is magnificent. Fine Park and Garden. Unrivaled panoramic view of the Alps. Healthy climate. Chnreh Service. Fair Tront Fishing. Prices moderate. Arrangements for Fanilies. Hotel Omnibuses at Schlffhatsen and Nenhansen. ROBERT IHODE & CO,, American Bankers, DIIESDEN: Wlilsdruffer-Strasse, No. 1 in connection with the U.S. Consnlate. U NITED STATES GOVERNMENT Secnrities, as well as Drafts on America, England, and France, bought and sold. - Reading-Rooms furnished with English and American papers. Post-Office well attended to. Packages of all kinds forwarded to America. Travelers' Luggage received and stored. --- _-.: r a, DRESDEN. PROELSS' SONS, Corner of See and Waisenhaus Strasse, No. 8, OPPOSITE VICTORIA HOTEL, MANUFACTURERS OF DB SK TABLE-IILIN AND LINEN SHEETING, KEEP L4IEGEST sTOOK OF TIIEIR Ready-Made Linen and Embroideries, Shirting, Huckabacks, and Diaper Towellings. HOLIDAYS IN EASTERN FRANCE. By MK BETHAM.EDWARDS. 32mo, Paper, 25 cents; i.Cloth, 40 cents. PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTIHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE, NEW YORnK 56 INNSBRUCK. HOTEL TIROL. The Best Hotel in Innsbruck, with beautiful View of the Mountains and Valley of the Inn. Close to the Railway Station. To every Modern Requirement are added Excellent Cuisine, Genuine Wines, and Moderate Charges. Mr. CH. LANDSEE, Proprietor. GOLDEN LAMB HOTEL, J. &. I. HAUPTMAN. Praterstrasse, V I E N N A. The Hotel is situated in the most healthy part of the Austrian Capital, in the Praterstrasse, leading to the Fashionable Promen. aces It commands fine views of the Banks and Quays of the Danube, and is close to the piers of the Hungarian and Turkish Steamers, as well as to the Northern Railway Station. It has!300 elegantly-frniished rooms, forming suites of comfortable apartments for large and small Families. The Cuisine is excellent. Times, Galignani's Messenger, American, French, Italian, and all German Netwspapers. Baths, Stable, and Ceaoh-Bouse. En. glish spoken by all the servants. GRAND) HO'TEL DE THOUNE.-TlHUMNJ (Suisse). M. STArtLE, Director. This magnificent new house was opened in 1875. It is situated on one of the most lovely spots on LAKE THUN, surrounded by an immense Garden, with a wide-spread view over an extended range of the Alps. Good Cuisine and attendance. Warm and Cold Baths. Carriages of all descriptions for hire. Omnibus at the arrival ot all the trains. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE, Between LAUSANNE Pan l OUCHY. This splendid Establishment, just constructed on a grand scale, is situated on one of the most beautiful spots on the SHORE OF THE LAKE OF GENEVA, surrounded by an English Park and Garden. It is near the Steamboat Landing and the English Church; within ten minutes' walk of the Railroad Station and the City. Its superior interior arrangemeats, the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlors, and Reading-ooms, will offer all desirable attraction to travelers. Reduced prices for protracted stays and for the Winter Season. Constant communication with the City and Railroad Station by Omnibus. This is the most desirable spot from which to make all the Excursions on LAKE GENEVA. Only one half-hour's sail on the Lake from the Castle of Chillon, and three hours from Geneva. MARTIN RUEINACHT, Director. 58 GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEUIS. On the Park, in front of the Kiosque Mugsique and the Casino, 200 Chambers. Apartments-for Families. A Grand Saloon for Fetes, capable of containing 500 persons. Smoking-Room, with Billiards. ROUBEAU PLACE, Proprietor. KREUZNACH (Baths of), GERMANY, Open thle 1st of May. Saline Springs of Iodine and Bromine. Romantic Environs. Healthy Climate. Mineral Baths in all the Hotels and Private Boarding-Houses, through Pipes from the Springs. Drinking Cure at the Elizabeth Spring, with New Drinking-Hall. Inhalation, Douches, and Vapor Baths. All the Agreeable Attributes of a First-class Bathing- Place. Splendid Band (Manssfeld Orchestra), Concerts, Reunions, Theatre, Fireworks, and Regattas. Reading-Room, with Newspapers in all Languages. Direct Conmmlicatiol by Rail wi all the Prmicia] Cities. For further information, apply to the i n 59 ZURICH SILKS. JACOB ZURRER, Bahnhof utrasse. SPECIALTY (OUR OWN MANUFACTURE) OF PURE BLACK AND COLORED SILKS. Large and carefully selected stock at MOST MODERATE PRICES. Patterns, with Prices marked, free to any part of Europe. COSTUMES. Variety, ready-made or to order, from 100 francs. Depots during season at Interlaken and Ragatz; same prices as Zurich. Ladies visiting Zurich are respectfully requested to inspect our Silks, and to notice QUALITY and PRICE. MILA&N. ULRICH & CO., 21 Via Bigli, American and English Bankers; Correspondents and Agents OF THE FIRST BANKING-HOUSES OF EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. PRACTICAL COOKING. PRACTICAL COOKING AND DINNER GIVING. A Treatise containing Practical Instructions in Cooking, in the Combination and Serving Of Dishes, and in the Fashionable Modes of Entertaining at Brealfast, Lunch, and Dinner. By Mrs. MARY F. HENDERSON. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NSw YORK. S ent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the nited 'States, on receipt of the price. - - -O]- M:; h HOTEL ANGLO-AMERICAIN. Situated 12S Via Frattinn, between the Piazza di Spagna and the Corso. Moderate scale of charges.. Gr.. CENCI, Director. '6 0 -. 1 1 " - \ - 0 - 1 ' * cs'SDENrs jN WE Y IN 'Q O. f URLPE &L. WATCHES OF ALL KINDS. Self-winding Chronometers and Half Chronometers. lRepeaters, Fifth-of-Second IHorse- Timers, and Plain Watches. Ladies' Watches, plain or richly decorated. -Every watch guaranteed. EXTENSIVE STOCK OF JEWELRY, PAINTINGS ON ENAMEL, PORTRAITS, SINGING BIRDS. The choice in this establishment is so varied, so beautiful, and so much cheaper than in America, that the opportunity of purchasing should not be lost. Same House in PARIS, 22 Rue de la Paix; LONDON, 22 Sackville Street; NEW YORK, 23 UiouSqare; NICE, 3 Jardin Publique. 5 61 BOULOGNE-SUIR-MER. HOTEL DU NORD. EiEGANT, FIRST-CLASS HOU8r, Situated close to the Beach, in the town, and a a from the offensive neighborhood of the Port. Post and Telegraph Offices in tjhe Hotel. Central Office of the Postcs, or Diligence Office, in the iotel. Excellent Apartmet, Ciisine, Service, and Wines. O' tt. LACO t,, Proprietor. BRUSSELS GRAND HOTEL, GERNIAY, PROPRIETOR. Opposite the Northern Station, (are dt Nord,) for Holland, Germany and Ostend. MEN T O NE. GRAND HOTEL WESTMINSTER. First-class Establishment, built and furnished with taste, and according to all the latest improvements. In a southern aspect, overlooking the sea annd a beantiful Garden, giving access to the public "Promenade du Midi." Large Public Saloon. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. English and several foreign languages spoken. Omnribus to and from the railway station. lATTEO COLLETTI, Proprietor. GRAND HOT*EL COLLET, No. 00 RUne Imperiale and 99 Rue de L'Imperatrice, near Place Louis-le-Grand. This Hotel is of recent construction, and is recommended for its fine situation, which is one of the best in the city. It contains time family apartments, Reading-Room, Table. d'Hdte, and A la carte. Interpreters in attendance. LYONS, FRANCE. BADEEN-BADE3N. HOTEL DE RUSSIE. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE OF OLD STANDING, Thoroughly renovated and refurnished. Beautiful situation on the Promenade, near the Kursaal, in its own Garden, commanding a fine view. Elegantly Furnished. Good Cuisine and Attendance... -,dl.^.,. -i *l. * 4..,& *. MO —CH, Propriotor..-^ ^ ^,. *.!.! FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, MUN ICH. - This Firet-Class Iotel is situated in the new Maximilian Street, which is justly considered one of the finest Streets in Germany, as well for its magnificent and grand buildings, as for its beautiful ornamental promenade. It is fitted up in a luxurious style, combining elegance and comfort, and possesses all the modern accomplishments of a first-rate establishment. The charges are moderati and fixed. AUG. SCHIMONHEIRS. MUNICH. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE (English Hotel-Englischer Hof). FINE, FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY. SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED TO AMERICAN AND ENGLISH TRAVELERS. Every Comfort. Omnibus at the Station. Under the personal supervision of the Proprietor, Mr. SITZL'ER. 63 BADN- anDEN. Hotel and Baths de la Cor de Bade. Badischer Hlof. MAGNIFICENT, FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, with Beautiful Gardens. Largest and Finest House in every respect. Not to be confounded with the Hotel de la Ville de Bade, near the Station. Mr. ZIEGLER, Proprietor. A,MUNIICH. HAN FSTAENGL, PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO, No. 7 LMaimilianstrasse, Near Hotel Four Seasons. Photographer to the nEmperor of Germanyn Publisher of the Collections of the Dresden and Munich Galleries and Museums. MR. HANFSTAENGL, noted as an Artist as well as Photographer, enjoys a European reputation for the superior style and finish of his productions. Especially his Portraits, from the carte de visite to the life size, represent the highest perfection of art.. /it f 0. u s;z a i ok A,;0, 0 m- He t t< a, t t *= a GRAND HOTEL D'AIX. E., GUIBERT, PROPRIETOR. A first-chiss house (formerly the Hotel Impe'riale). The largest, finest, and best-kept house in the townu. Omnibus at all the trains. FONDA-'DE LA ALAMEDA, MALAGA, SPAIN. -this first-clasis house Is finely, situated in the 'Prl~inia iartofteiyo'heplc Promenade, and managed by the proprietors, BRUNETTI BROTHERS. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE (Englischer Hof).-PRAGUE. PROPRIETOR, MR. F. HUTTIG. This first-rate. - tBO ilreti mc rqete yEgh travelers for its moderate charges,, comfort, and cleanliness.. It Is situated near theRaiway Station and Post-Office. Table d'hte' 4 o'clock. Dinner A la carte or at fixed price at any hour. English newspapers. English and French spoken. To. AXERICANS VISITING ]EUROPE.' W. J7. ADAMS A SONS, Publishers of BaADSu1AW's RAILWAY and STEAM NAVIGATION GUTIDES forf GREAT BaIimmx, IRELAND, and the CONTINENT4O EuRoPE.-LoNiDoN, 69, FLEET STREET (E. C.). Viass obtained to VNiman STATES PASSPORTS, JPassport Cases, Travelling Maps, Travelling Bags, Couriler Bags, Portnmanteaus, Cash Belts,, Kuapstacks, Ratilway Rugs, Waterproof anud Dust Proof "oas,"Travelle6rci Writing cases, Inkstands, Door Fasteners, Luggage Labels, and Travelling Soap. The latest Editions of MUVRRAY's, BLAca's8, HARPER's, and BRADSHAW's BaiTian and FOREIGN TiAqD-IOOKS, FRtENCf, GERMA-K, ITALIAN, a ud SI'ANaDI5IIDcroNAeRES and P'uRAS ii Booas, 'every description of Stationery for Travellers, Polyglot Washing Books, and every reqaisite for Travel. lers. LUPRINCEn COURtERS ENGAGED. CASSEL-WILHELMSHOHE. Charmingly situated city, celebrated for its artistic treasures and beauty of nature; capital of the Province of Hesse-Nassau, and Royal Residence. As inducements to command a longer stay of the trtveller may be mentioned: Grand Picture Galleries -Finest Collection of the Dutch Masters; Interesting Castles, worthy of a visit; ~,i eant Pak (Au-Park), with the cele b at arble0Bath; x ln hools (attended by the Imperial German Princes); Co1rt TetJ: dC erts; large choice ofAmnsement Resorts; very a raIe gien Attribite;Sping Water. r:;*; 1 ^a L SHB( ser SCass el, 4reac edin.f.0 ainutes by tramway. R tle rend hi al by the soj apoleon s prisong efo ta heigt af about 2000f the sea, wth Gint st a Watrwuperior to thoeoei; Largest Fountain i theW ent Pine orestith wide handsome Riding andDrivin AesdF paths, leading to lakeslying here and there, and to superb points of view; Air-Cure Resort; Large Pensions and Health Establishments. Advice or information on all matters relating to CasselWilhelMsinhOe-forwarded by addressing the Society there, the Verein zur Forderung des Verkehrs und Wahrung der Interessen der Fremden, CASSEL-WILHELMSHbHE. CONSTANZ. Hotel Pension Constanzer Hof au Lac. FORMERLY BATH HOTEL. Situated on the Lake of Constance, surrounded by beautiful parks. Sea-Bathing Establishment. Warm Baths of every kind. Boarding Prices mk. 4.80 ($1.20); Rooms from nmk. 1.20 (30 cts.) upwards. E. KUPPER. SALZBURG, AUSTRIA. HOTEL, PENSION, AND VILLA NELBOECK. First-Class House, ia magnfloca^il roinS; nlosA64 aRailway Station, Curhaus, the Mirabell and Curhaus Grounds. Favorite Summer Residence. ARCO, SOUTHERN TYROL. HOTEL AND CURHAUS IN ARCO. Trient Station, South-Tyro l Line, hours by carriae. Mo taton, South-Tyrol Line,. hours by carriage. ATUMnl, WINTER, AND SPRING CURE. Every Comfort, Luxury, and Attraction. Glorious Situation, Band Music, Medical AttendN. B. —Favorable arrangement at both houses for a lengthened stay. 66 Proprietor of both Houses, Mr. JULIUS NELBOECK. VI iET STNA (Austria).., GRAND HOTEL, Karnthnerring No. 9. SITUATED ON THE lost Ble]ant 8ud Frellenateid Sllar of th City. 300 Rooms from 1 florin upwards; Apartments from 6 florins upwards..-.:-. ':: 1)BEAUTIFUL DINING SALOON. Restaurant Saloons, Conversation, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. BATHS AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. Lifts for Communication with each Story, DINNERS AND SUPPiRS A LA CARTE. TABLE DWOTE. O()nnibuses at the Railway Stations. 67 METROPOLITAN IHOTEL-.-IENNA, AUSTRIA. Wtrf an ui the ~Lngest: d Lmosf cammodis Hol that fh yet been buift in Austria. ie position of the METROPOLITAN HOTEL is unrivaled: in the healthiest part of etropolis; open and airy on all sides. Opposite the Landing Place, commanding a ew oveqr the Rig, the Dannbe, Leopoldsberg, and Kahlenberz. le Interlor of the Hotel consists of Four Hundred Bedrooms and Sitting-Rooms, d'Hote Room, Breakfast-Room, a Restaurant, a Isadbig-Rooni With a well-furnished y German, French, English, American, and Itallap Newspapers. A Ladies' Room, lnrge Pino. A Smoking and Billflrd Room. Telegraph Station il the Hotel. OMINI IBUJSS, CARRIAGES, hfORSES, BATHS. HOTEL ROYAL AND GRAND HOTEL, -' HANOVER. GEBRUDER CHRIST, Proprietors. T fti:s'hose is situated near the Station, and contains the comforts and luxuries of a First-class Hotel. Terms moderate. Special arrangements made for a lengthened stay.: 68 VWURZBTURG (Bavaria). HOTEL CROWN PRINCE. Facing the Royal Palace on the Square. First-class House; by far the largest, best, and most advantageously situated in Wurzburg. Mr. JULIUS AMMON, Proprietor. TRIBERG. Centre of the world-renowned Black Forest Railroad of Baden. BLACK FOREST HOTEL. LOUIS BIERINGER, Proprietor. Opned 1877. The Grandest Establishment of the Black Forest. First-Class House, situated in the most beautiful part of the town and valley, in the immediate vicinity of the Waterfall. Honored in!1877 by a visit of His Majesty the Emperor of Germany. Most favorably known by all tourists. 900 feet above the sea. 80 most elegantly furnished Rooms and Saloons, with 26 balconies and 120 beds; large shady Terrace, with Pavilion; spacious Breakfast and Dining Saloon; Smoking, Reading, and Conversation Rooms; Warm, Cold, and Shower Baths on every floor. Opening of the Season 1880 on the 1st of May. Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock. Omnibus at the Railway Station. Carriages for Excursions. English, French, and Italian Conversation. Carefully selected Newspaper Literature. Waterfall illuminated by Bengal Lights once aweek.:9 4 _L_ ______ -_1t HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, BADE 0. KAH, PaoioLBIftO. i This house is situated in the finest position in Baden-Baden, Immediately opposite the Drinkhalle and Conversation-House. Splendidly furnished. Fine Wine-Cellar. Cuisine not surpassed by any in Germany. Pottery -and Porcelain of All Times and Nations. With Tables of Factory and Artists' Marks, for the Use of Collectors. By WILTLIAT C. PruIx, LL.D. Illustrated. 8vo, Oloth, Gilt Tops and Uncut Edges, in a Box, $7 o0 PuBLsuiE) nY HARPER & BROTHERS, FaANSKLI SQUARE, NNW YORK. HOTELS DE PARIS, STRASBOUR%, FRANCE. Mr. Rnfenacht, Proprietorof this unrivaled Est:lbli sAlent, respectfllly offrs hli. grateful acknowledgments to the English Nobility and Gentry ifr their continued patronage, and avails himself of this occasion to assure 1Travelers visiting Strasbourg that no efforts will be spared on his part to render their sojourn at the above lotel both comfortable and satisf:ctory. Charges moderate. Breakfast, lfr. 50e. Table d'lHte at 1 o'clock, 3fr., and at 6 o'clock, 4fr. Breakfasts and Dinnersd La carte at all prics. ROoms from lfr. o0c. to 4fr., lights included. Pension from 6fr. to 8fr. per day. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE, BADEN, A. Roessler, Proprietor. This favorite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The increase of business rendering it necessary to enlarge the Hotel, which now consists of more than a hundred sleeping apartments, elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. It is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavors, by the most strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of American visitors. '"Times," &c., and other journals. The wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for every thing. Breakfalt, 42 krs. Table-d'Hote at onea, 1 fl. 24 Ir. at fte, 1 fl. 48 kr. Mr. Roessler, remaining sole Proprietor, will spare no pains to deserve the confidence of English tr4velers, Opeffn dan'I thB-twkitefi Eglish Is spoken.:~ 9 -6 h HOTEL ET. BAINS, DE LA ROSE. IAPAWFNE}I,_4' flRO.S.,:PHO1PHTICTORpS. ' hOT AND COLD MINERAL BATHS. -THIS FIRST-CLASS HOUSE IS BEAUTIFULLY SITU`HATED IN ITS OWN GROUNDS. =-CLOSE TO THE KURSAAL. BADENBADEN Old Renowned Alkaline Chior. Sod6 Springs of 44-690 C. * Chlor. Lithium -Sp-ring of Prpodru Cntns NEW GRAND DUO". ~BATHING E9TAILI8HMENT, "THE FREDERIC BATHS." A model institution, unique for Its peifection and elegance. Tub Baths, Russian Vapor Baths, Turkish Baths, Electric Baths, so-called "1Wildbidei` (thermial water constantly ronngn Swimming, Baths, Rooms for Cold Water Treatment, Inhalation. ofVilulmoie ~illieral1 AV ater, IDotches for the Larynx, Pneumatic Apparaitus, 1)ouches of all 'Iormrns afid T~emperatulre, Medicinal Baths of every description. PIrivate Mtedical -Institutions, with Thermal Pits ump-Roomd, with, the )iaM a VaesOf altems reno(Wned, Sprinigs; Whe andMik Cures; Spring Cures with the Juice of Rerbs; Autumn Cures4 with excellent Grapes "rie Coaaversatiovi -House, *Ith Its splendid Concert Ball, and Reading Rooms, itestaurant and Society Roomst open. t logouat the 'Whole year. Grand Conceerts, Symphony'and Quar'tette, Sotirees; Se ia lierts by renowned artists. Bals ftirks, Ildunious; Children's FestivalA. SpeddOcestra (48 musiclans), with solo players; three Concerts daily. Nilitr Cocrts. Operas and Comedies~. Ballet. Fireworks and illuminiationls. Shooting adFihng. Pigeou Shooting. Gran Races. Eduicational, Institutions of hihorder. Badein-Daden, surrounded on till sides by luxuriant tine an eech Woods offrs oppor1tunities for the most charmuin~ wak n xcgs~s xce~ eut Clmae camig iuain.lean. annilual temperature,+7.1 401U. TILE MUNIMOPAL COMMITTEE. GO3NNER, Presiding Mayor. TH. WZll!, T mve Counsellor 71 WIE SBADEN. FOUR SEASONS OTEL. Delightful and airy situation in the Theatre Square, opposite Kursaal, Colonnades, Park, and Drinking Gallery..Splendid Apartments; Fashionable House; Large Mineral Bath Establishment connected with Hotel; patronized by Visiting Royalty. DR. ZAIS, PROPRIETOR. Philadelphia Exhibition Medal for Rhine Wines. MARIENBAD MINERAL WATERS, Bohemia (Austria). Railway Station from Paris to Marienbad. Eastern Railway by Mayence and Eger. SABII, AI L, AND PURATI SPIE Kreut4bruim id Feerdindobrw against Gout, Hemorrhoids, livri Sad toBmaeh Diseases. Tonic and Ferruginoi a sprfngs Ambrosins and Caroline. Women's Dis. eases. Bicarbonate Springs. Wald and Ran,dolfsquelle, Catarrh and Lung Diseases. MARIENBAD: WATERS can be had -PARIS:. 20 Rue de ]a Michodiere. LONDON: Schilbach & Royson, 7 East India Avenue' and of the Company, Marienbad. 72 HOMBURG (BATHS OF), Near Frankfort-on-the-Main. The Hombug Waters are very salutary in Diseases of the Stomach and aivOer, and attacks of the ut. Unrivaled Summer Climate. The mountans' pUr N4 brali kirB coont;ibutes largely to invigorate the systemi and is ver beneficent In ^Nrvoius l ctions. l Mineral, Cold, and Wr Baths; Pine Baths. Whey Cure. Excellnt Orchestra, Regimental Bands, Grand Balls, R6unions, Illuminations, Theatre, Concerts given by celebrated artists. Children's and Rustic Fetes. Races. Lawn Tennis. Cricket and Croquet. Shooting and Fishing. Comfortable Hotels and Private Houses at moderate prices. Magnificent Kurhaus. Splendid Ladies' Conversation and Reading Rooms, Cafe, Billiards, with the well-known Restaurant. Close by the Kurhaus vast and beautiful Park, with Orangery. Delicious Walks and Carriage Drives. Charming Environs. THE SEASON LASTS THE WHOLE YEAR. IROTTEIRDAM. HOTEL VICTORIA., Pirst-elass House, on the Qual, near the Park. Favorite of American Travelers. American and English Newspapers. Coomfort and Satisfaction insured by the Personal Snperinteudence of the Proprietor, Mr. Tyr Q T'. 'r WIESBAIDEN. - IR.... = ~ 1 -Victoria otel The Proprietor takes this opportunity of assuring the Nobility and Gentry that he will spare no exertions or expense to render his Hotel in every respect a comfortable residence for the best class of travelers, and to give every satisfaction for the elegance and comfort of the apartments, for its excellent Cnisine, good attendance, and conscientious moderate charges. For situation and agreeable residence this Hotel will be found superior to any other at this watering-place. Hot and Cold Baths. Permanent arrangements can be made for the winter season at greatly reduced prices. J. HELBACH, Proprietor. GRAND IIOTEIL ROYAL, BO)N.N-This excellent Hotel, one of the best on the Continent, patronized by King Leopold of the Belgians and by the Royal Family of England; and recently the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Princes Alfred and Arthur, have favored this Hotel with their visit; and the Proprietor has been honored with the household of the Prince Alfred during the time of his study at Bonn. This Hotel is charmingly situated on the banks of the Rhine, commands the most beautiful view of the beven Mountains, facing the landing-place of the Rhine Steamers, and near the Railway Station. Tis Hotel combines every comfort witn moderate charges; and its situation is so convenient that Travelers will find it a highly agreeable place of residence or of temporary sojourn, to which a splendid garden of four acres oing, laid out in the English style, will greatly contribute. For families or single persona dirous to stay fir the winter the most advantageous arrangsnent can be made forboar ad ldgig. Table dhte t half past and o'clock. Mr. EI.MEKIEL, Proprietor. THE GOLAN1E STAR HOTEL BONN. This first-rate and nrivaled Hotel, patronized by the English Royal Fanil, Nobility and-Gestry, is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Station, and to thelanding places of tie Rhine Steamboats. The Proprietcr, Mr. J. SSHMinr, begs leave to recommend his Hotel to Tourist. Tle apartments are furnished and carpetedAthrghout in the bePt S ye, and thechare modelate. Apartments dtrng thewintertt m t pri The Lndon ies an erad ken ia during the whole year. Six ezeel Plt1.n to behfnd lathe different Sitting-Rooms. V E NI, O terreihser -Astiai Court Hotel, ar th Rtp la tz, on the Ri thenthurmstrasse. 140 Rooms; Saloons, Baths, Garden, Telegraph Office, and every p0ssible Comfort. Mess&s HANISCH & ANGERER, PROPraIETS. Z U RI C H. HEOTE I:ATI ONA L, 0OI:POSITr; NQORTTH-EA'STEi1RN STATIOCT0N. Opened August 8th, 1877. This newly-built Hotel, fixed up with every comfort, is the only house near this important station. Elegant Restaurant and Dining-Room. Table d'Hote and Separate Meals. Moderate Prices and Most Attentive Service. MR. F. MICHEL, PROPRIETOR. 74 -- i - = ---= FRANKFURTER HOF, OR GRAND HOTEL DE FRANKFORT. A magnificent new house, opened in the Spring of 1876. Situated near the Station, in the finest part of the city. Contains 240 Rooms, with Saloons, Billiards, Reading-Room, Drawing-Rooms, Elevator, Magnificent Dining-Room, Bath-Rooms. &c. THE HOTEL IS SURROUNDED BY FOUNTAINS AND FLOWER-GARDENS. HOMBURG. HOTEL DE HESSE. Opposite Kirsaal, in Fine Position. MBu. L FREY, PROPRIETOR. l..... t.V.W...:... W ILDB. HOTEL K LUMP P. Mr. WM. KI[UMIJPP, Proprietor. This First-Class Hotel-containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bedrooms, with a separate Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a very extensive and elegant Dining-Room, an artificial Garden over the river-is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation Houses, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its Elegant and Comfortable Apartments, Good Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide- spread reputation as an Excellent Hotel. Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock- Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking Houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to and from each train; fine Private Carriages when requested. Excellent Accommodation. HTANNOVER. UJNI ON HOTEL. A. F2R ST- - C LASS HOTEXLI,.., Finely situated, opposite the e Gtral Statitn, with Pension in connetion. Restaurant and Cafe; Table & teo 1.30 PF i; Dinners and Suppers served separately at all hours. 80 Rooms and Saloons, fitted up in the most elegant, comfortable, and approved modern style, in keeping with everything else pertaining to the House. Moderate Fixed Prices. FRIED. VI5LKERS, Proprietor. SAELZBURG. Hotel de IEurope and Pension Jung. OPPOSITE THE RAILWAY STATION, In the middle of a Large Park, with a superb view over the Hochgebirg. Magnificent Summer Resort. Moderate Charges. Roolms from 1 florinl upwards. G. JUNG, Proprietor. '76 VARESE i direct communication with Milan by rail; 1X hours by hb hours by diligence to Como; 2 hours by diligence to Lavw eamer. lMr. D. WMAI B E RL I N. HOTEL DE RUSSIE, This well-known first-class Hotel, overlooking the residence of the Crown Prince, is situated in the most attractive part of the city, near the Imperial Palace, the principal promenades and public institutions, and recommends itself as much for its excellent position as for its interpr oiomfort. It has recently undergone great alteratio andis now completely restored, beautifully decorated, and every modern improvement has been added to insure the health and comfort of its visitors. Mr. CEHARLIES KTUHRT, PROPRIETOR. SAN REM O. GRAND HOTEL PALMIERI. Situated close to the Beach, with full southern exposure, in the centre of its own lovely grounds. Every attraction and inducement for a prolonged winter stay. Same proprietorship as of the Iotel de la Mediterran6e at Nice. Mr. PALMERI, Proprietor. EMS (Baths of). Season Opens Mal Ist-Clses nM' cto MINERAL SPRINGS (Chloride of Sodium, a23~040 Reaumur). Springs, Baths,:&c., of old-established celebrity against Chronic atah of the Respiratory and Digestive Organs, Congestion of the Liver, Formation of Stone in the Bladder, Gout, Gravel, Incipient Bright's Disease, Diabetes. Sovereign in the treatment of Dyspepsia, and in thousands of cases proved to be most efficacious in the treatment of Sterility, and a quantity of affections of the Womb and Uterus. During the Season daily Military and Artists' Ccncerts in the Park and Kursaal; German and French Theatres; Balls and Reunions. Abundantly supplied Reading-Room; Conversation Rooms. Railway Station; Post and Telegraph Offices. One Hour by Rai from Coblentz. For any particulars, address THE ROYAL PRUSSIAN KUR-DIRECTION. 78 B 79 VICTORIA HOTEL, DRESDEN. This first-rate Establishment, SITUATED NEAR THE GREAT PUBLIC PROMENADE, Combines Comfort with Elegance, arnd has the' advantage of possessing a SPACIOUS AND BEAUTIFUL GARDEN. Two Superior Tables dHoote Daily. Private Dinners at any hour. During the Winter, Board and Lodging at very moderate prices. CARL WEISS, Proprietor.. OTEL DUU JURA;, Dlbjn. Ml, DAVID, Proprietor. This first-rate Hotel is the nearest to the Railway Station, the Cathedral, and' the Public-Garden Saloons. Apartments and Rooms for Families. Tabled'Hote. Private Carriages for hire by the hour. English Newspapers. Omnibuses to convey Passengers to and from each Train. English spoken. The greatest attention is paid to English Visitors. 79 ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN, A FIPT-CLASS OUSE, V^ OF ZAE NlP4-:r.Bit Distinguished for its elegance, comfort, and courteous attention to its gt-ests -.:::";- / " "I CHIARGES IMCOKERATE. MIessrs. LOHR & ALTEN, Proprietors. GRAND HOTEL BRUN, BOLOGNA. J. F. FRANiK,.Proprietor. The best recommendation for this hotel is its good reputation. Elegant apart-;enus and itngle rooms to suit Uall lase of travelers. Fine Breakfast and Dining Rooms; Billiard and Smoking Rooms; Reading-room supplied with all the principal journals. The hotel is under the immediate superintendence of the proprietor. HOTEL A TRAMONTANO, SORRENTO. Directly opposite NAPLES, with magnificent view of the Bay and its surroundings. ErCNGiISH: PROPRIETOR. ROM E. GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE ET DES ILES BRITANNIQUES. khis First-class Establishment possesses the advantage of a Beautiful Garden, and is situated near the English and American churches. The principal apartments facing the south, and the entire IIotel being warmed by calorifres, the whole arrangements and moderate prices give universal satisfaction. G. I1ZZEII, Proprietor. 80 BELLAGIO (Lake of Como). GRAND HOTEL BELLAGIO. One of the finest Hotels in Europe. Containing 200 Rooms, 30 Sitting-Rooms, and surrounded by a splendid Park and Garden. Full view of all three Lakes and the Mountains. Hot and Cold Baths; Douches. Equipages and Boats attached to the Hotel. English Service. Moderate Charges; American system of Charges. Highly Recommended. Mr. L. BREITSCHMID, Manager. HAMBURG. STREIT'S HOTEL. This SUPERIOR FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN Is admirably situated on the Jung fernStieg, commanding extensive v:iews of the Alster Basin, and is most centrally situated for visitors; unrivalled accommodation, combining comfort and elegance, with all the luxuries of home. This Hotel has for a number of years secured a patronage of the highest respectability, and Mr. Streit, the proprietor, will spare no endeavors to give satisfaction. Tabl' 'Hte at 4 o'clock.. ol-; EOTEL DE LA VILLE MILAN. GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN, MILAN. Corso del Guardino. This first-class Estiblisment is ettirely restored bythe new proprietor, and ftted up in the most comfortable style. It contains Twd Hundred Rooms, large and small Apartments for Families and single gentlemen, and is very well situated in the centre of the Railway Stations, Public Gardens, Cathedral, Theatre Scala, Picture Gallery, &c. Table d'H6te, Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner at any hour at fixed prices, or A la carte. Music Saloon, Reading-Room, Smoking-Room, Hot and Cold Baths. Moderate charges. Lift in communication with each story. J. SPATZ, Proprietor. MILAN, Italy. Hotel Grande Brelagne & Reich man Via Torino, No. 45; This iotell has been greatly enlarged by uniting the REICHMANN and GRAND BRETAGNE, and entirely refurnished by the new proprietor, JosxPrx LEoNANI. Apartments for iamilies 6nd single gentlemen. The house is situated in the centre of the town, near the Cathedral, Theatres, and all the principal places. Table d'H6te. Galignani's Messenger taken in. Several languages spoken. The House is only two stories high, and iv minutes' walk from the English Church. Brougham and Omnibus to meet all the Trains. 82 R; OME.0 - HOTEL COSTANZJ., i 6irstass Hotel contains 350 Sleepingoom a ls, l e ti. Large Dining, Reading, and BiiRos; Li gardens. The Hotel is built on the highesad i est po,f me, and from many of its rooms command antiful vi v ~ tn towa. -'D' thu -C:info, an vor kfttract ': '2 MARzTINETTI & CERMONESI, PROPRIETORS. FLORENOCE GRAND HOTEL NEW YORK. A first-class House, situated on the Lungo l'Arno, enjoying a southern aspect, and at some distance from the Waterfall, which is disagreeable to most travelers. This Hotel is fitted up in the English style, for the comfort of Families, and may be truly reputed as one of the best in Italy. The Rooms are adapted for Large and Small Families, and also for Single Gentlemen. Table d'Hote. Baths in the Hotel Reading-Rooms. Good Attendance and very Moderate Charges. Mr. FAINI, Proprietor. CoPEINhA-GEN. HOTEL KONGEN AF DAANMABRK. This first-class Hotel -much frequented by the elite of English and American visitors- affords first-rate accommodation for families and single gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal Palace and overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table d'Hote; Private Dinners; Best Attendance; Reading-Room; Hot Baths; Lift; English, French, German, and American Newspapers; All Languages spoken; veryl Moderate Terms; the only Vienna Coffee-House. R. n:RLINN, Proprietor. 83 STOCKHO, M SWEDEN. GRAN D HOTEL R. CADIER, Proprietor. This excellent first-lass Hotel will open early in the Spring of 1874 for reception of Guests and Travelers. Being most beautifully situated in front of the Grand Harbor, opposite the Royal Castle, the view of the city from the Hotel is truly grand. The House contains Four Hundred Bedrooms, besides several Dining-Rooms, Parlors, Reading-Rooms, Caf, Billiards, Baths, Laundry, &c,,&c. STEAM ELEVATORS. Gas and Water every where. Thorough ventilation. Polite Guides furnished. Servants speaking all languages. W PRICES TO SUIT. HOTE L EYJI.BEBf. FIRST- CLASS HOTEL. One Hundred and Fifty Rooms. Restaurant. GWTAF ADOLF'S SQUARE 1. CADIER, Proprietor. 84 ST. PETERSBURG. HOTEL D'ANGLETERR E. H. SCHMITZ, Proprietor. ITUATED in the finest position in St. Petersburg, in front of the Celebrated Isaac's Church. THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS OF THE FIRST ORDER, LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS. TABLE D'HOTE AND DINNERS, L A C ARTE AT RFEASONAQLl PRICES. LARGE SA-LOONS FOR RECEPTIONS.,. 'i E BAT S. t ENGLISH, GERMANM, AND' FRENCH SPOKEN. " RE G ULAR BOARDERS AT RE A SONABLE RATES. 85S IEJIOTEL ST. _AN_1TOINE.*~-0 ~NA PLE S. Purveyor to His Majesty the King of Italy.. CORALS, Exportation and Retail; CAMEOS and VESUVIAN ST-ONES; A-RCHEMOLOGICAL JEWELRY (of 24 carats gold), copied from the Originals in all the Museums of Europe. IFIXEAD PIRICIES. 2~86 -Riviera de Chiaja, 280, Naples. AINSTEL OTEL _Anisterdam, Holland. TYRLAND THE SKIR T ~OFTHALS i1~urate voClt,3 00. PUBLIsUED B3Y HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE, NEW YORK. ~EAU~IFULY ITUATED. FIRST 048 ~ $UT~RLAND bes ~intimate: that 4I*O JHotelj weWl- kii6W A the FIRST- IN TH]EIRIGHLANflS, Is now ready 'for the season. An elegant NEW DINING HALL has been added. AN ELEVATOR., Hot, Oold, and Shower i(Metalo-Ceramic) Baths. Hot Moone; orld ouronuos. F. SQCHOTT. I~rad H tel e Vvey the Lake of Gen~v'e, with a imagnifieeht: view from- the gardens 'in ARRIIGIEI? UR~G1~HE VIII!HR Eli PEN8OI STEAM COMMUNICATION By the Fine,, First-Cl ass Vessels, of TeGetWstern SemhpLiel S(~EEISE ----— Ton ----t ----tm~ CORNWALL --- —--— 2000 Tons -----— Capt. Stamper. ARAGON - -------— 1500 Tons --- —— Capt. Symnons. DEVN — - - — 200Tons__4- -,- (Now Building.) These ships carry but a limited number of passengers, with a view to whose comfort and safety every arrangement is made. All the Com manders have hadl great experience ini the North Atlantic trade FARES: Saloon, 13 Guineas; Return Tickets, 20 Guineas. Second Cabin, S Guineas. Steerage, 5 Guineas. Apply to the Mauiigers, IMARK WHIITWILL & SON, Grove, Bristol;, Or to Wf. D.X)ORGAN, Agent, To South Street, New York; to DONALD CURRIE.; CO., Fen4*ntU'ch treet, Lofidon 141J tiL %IRlEW Havre;- Or to alIW. WLGIL-")NIN, Anglo-American Bank, 19 Boulevard de la Madeleine, Paris. B. Somerfeld, Embroidery Manufacturer, 42 Leipxiger Ptroot. Berlin, Has the greatest st'ock "of finished and unfinished Embroideries. The ncvi rooms are furnished with a rich and tasteful stock of all articles in this branch, which enables him to execute every order given. HOTEL AND IPENSION ".CONTiCOL{D1A," First-class Hotel, magnificently situated near St. Morlix, In the most beautiful part of the Engadine. Highly recommended, by its )eonstort and exceejent kitchen. Pension from 5 fro. upward,; QOUIcue.a.FAGHR opriotor. Amrcnoegnat Uropean xpress. FAST FREIGHT LINE TO~ BUROPE. FOREIGN CARRIERS TO AND FROit ALL PARTS O]FiTHE WORLD. Proprietors: DAVIES~ & CO.0 OhWe Once: 15 33roaWay, NoW York. THRBOUGH BILLS OF LAIDING, for reight,andb hage, issued fromn NW VORK to all parts of EI9;ROPE, INDIA, AUSTRALIA, CHIINA, CUBA AFRICA4, &. Agents in all the principal ciiisf 1h~ o Id. *~'~3gggeset ro ERO 0adree4to us liet ill be1' iaixedlly eared fof and stri~d itoawit arr~iv"al of owniers.' All fur~ther information on application at 15 Broadlway,, New Yor'k, U.S.A. 88 IOVEIRLAffD ROUTEy I SUEZOANALD WITH HE 'PENINSUARET ANMOlEIALSCMPN DISPATCH THEIR STEAMERS IFROMT SO-UTHAMNPTONq Via thle Suez Canal,, Ever Noon' for the Mediterranean, Egypt, Aden, and Bombay. Every Second Wednesday for Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta Straits, IChina, Japan, Australia and New Zealand. CORRESPONDING STEAMERS FProm VENICE ------------— i ---- very Friday; and, From BRINDI8L-i,-*er I TO AL1EXAN1*DRIA,' WITH THE, OVERLAND PORTIMt O THE MAILS AND PASSENGER. Tor fuell partliculars, applyat t-eComan's Offices: III LONDON, 1- edela Street, IL C., and 25 Cockgpur Street, S. W.; and in PARIS,& G. DUNLAP h& 00, 83 'Avenue de, l'Opema NUIW YORK, 20I Brcoi~wa 89 AUTIANi Ioff. 81 ToT Trp the Btdamers ToTRIESTE. To~ ATHENS (Psu1AUS). To CONSTANTINOPLE. TO SMYRNA. E very Satrda ton Every Saturday noon, via Arrival following y Arriva in.,Thursday at S A.M. vr a on Thrsday at 9 A.M. PkEvery second Thursday FvridaylhwaTeslyt 8P.M.b Fue rnds,an H ~~~~~~~from Dec. 30 at 4 P.M., FrdyaSAlt. b iseirdiiad I'direct by Corfu -and Pa- Syra. ftras. Arrival following Arrival-serosnd Thsrd~ -Woadeseday at-SP.M.atSA5. * S.. is i 0 IIU fcollo i g ls r s yat 6 P.M. Eve1ry aecoasi Saturday from.Tan.Sthat 6 A.M., direct by Painas. Arrival ~following Thursday at midnight. Every Friday ait 5 P.M. Arrival following Thursday at 6 P.M. Evegr Satudrday t slP. irsrday at 6 P.M. NVOeY Sstssvdayat41P.M., hy yra, Brindisi, and Fiume. Arrival second Monday at 4 P.M. Every Wedneaday 'vi'a ~Alexinsdfia.- ~Ars4alal second Monday at 11 A.M. Every second Monday from Jan.3 at 7 A.M., via Sosyrna ansd Syra. Aftnlvat ascend Theistday at 6 P.M. P I Every Friday at 1 P.M., via Syra. Arrival following Monday at 8A.M. Every second Saturday from Jan. lat 2 P.M., direct. Arrival following Friday at 4 P.M. I Every Tuesdy at S P. 1r via SyVO- Amrvsitfoilewa Ing Friday at S A.M. Every second Thursday from Jan. 6th at tl A.U." Idirect. Arrival following Thuraday at 10 A.M. Everi Tuesdy 0 P. I,wvia byra. following Thurday at 2 A.M. Ese y as d y tP.M, Every Saturday 'v"a Syri. ~ at- ai P.M.: I A rrIval follow ing Arrival ftsllowing Monday at S A.M. Monday at 2.80 A.M. I Every Thuirsday at 4 P.M. Arrival fol4dwlng Saturday- SW* A.M. I i Every second Monday from Jan. 3d at 7 P.M. Arrival following Monday at 2.80 A.M. Every second Monda~ via ~Smyrna and Syra:' Arrival followlog.Monday at S A.M. Every second Mon day rromn Jan. 34 at? P.M Arrival following Friday at 11I A.M. I Eeysecond Tuesday frmJn II th at 6 P.M., Ever second Tuesday Every second Tueuday viaSm yrna and Sy'rs. from Jan. 11th satlP.M. frOmn Jan-.' tI hat'6 P.MI. HArrival following Mon. Arrival following Arrival following S Every Tuesday aM 5 P.M. day at 8 A. M. Monday at 2.30 A.M. Friday at 2.30 A.M. Arrval following,Modyat 11 AA,.M0 r"Cn Frida from Every second Frla from Every second Friday Mondayat M X vi e.31 sat II A. M1 vi fromt ec 1 ath De. 1Ot11 Aayi D c., i31 atsa.M., niSyria, Smyrna, and S yra. Syri a. Arrival second via Syria, Arrvlf-.4Arva eod ody Monday at 2.30 A.M lowingj "rday at II A.M. at S Ad.M f Jy d S tur ay Every second Saturday Zv r V a ISqasl~ 0 ~ yia S vr s nd~ from Jan. I stat 5 P.M., finns Jan. beat,.M., Ariaveod' ia Syria. via Syria. Arrival fol-.4 Monday at II A.M. Ev s S t- lowing Friday at 11 A.M. ni f 0~~ 3 15n Y Every aecon& Saturdayrow on.x8thr atooa E, Aleh5?0 xandr,fjt ftran JTab. Sbfh at noon,. Every second Saturday andleadia mye, Syra. o visa Alexandria. from JAn. 8 th at Inoon, a-r. iua Alexandria. Arrival OndAluaraay at 6 iIf ArrIval seconld Monday Arrival second Monday following Friday at S A.M. at 2.so0 A.M. at 9.280 A.M. Eeys ond Wednesday frm JnOth at 4 P.M., via Pirseos and Syrs. lvery second Wedaseda Evr oad rWednesday Every seone Suaday Arrival secossd Thursday n rmJan. 5th~ at 4 PM, fosJn t at 4 P.M. from Jan. 9th atS8 A.M. at' 9 A.M. direco i isu, Arrival ArrivalArr4veal'soecond Thusdy following Friday, foflowlssg Thursday Every seond Sunday at night. at, 4 P.M. aprt 10-A.M. from Jim. 9th ait S AM., via Constantinople. Arrival following Saturday at 3 A.M. S90 bqVtW Ait uoentl n/i below. 1881. A dUSdj A LL.O(T To BEYROUT. To ALEXANDRIA. To PORT-SAID. To SALONICA. Every second Friday from Jan. 7th ~ "" e i..d at noon, via Alexandria. ArrivalEvery second Saturday second Monday at 4.30 A.M. from Jan. Ist at noon, via second MondayrFrida at.oa Syra and Piraeus. Every second Saturday from Jan. Every Friday at noon. Alexandria. Aival following 8th, noon0sia yr& and Smyrna. Arrival following Arrival &atrdy at.830 A.M. Artat d W e 5 A.M. Thursday at 6 A.M. second Saturday E Every *eeeA Th "s day Every second Friday fromDec. 1 a from Dec. 30 at 4P. at noon,via Alexandria. Arrival Arrival second second Tuesday at 9.30 A.M. Saturday at 8.30 A.M. Every second Tuesday from Every second Tuesday from Every second Tuesday from Jan. 11th at 8 P.M. va Syra Jan. 4tht 8 P.M.,via Syra Jan. Ith at 8 P.M., wa Syra and Smyrna. xrtriatfollowing sanid Smaa Arrival fol- aid Smina. Arrisvl Er nd Thursday Wedn e t. lowiguesdyat 1.30 AM. ond Fnrday at 8. fro aI th at 10 A.M. - Arrival at 6 A.M. at 6 A.M. Ever second Thursday from Every second Thurday Every second Thursday from Dec. 31 at 4 P.M. Arrival rom Jan. ich at 4 P.. Dec. 30 at 4 P.M. Arrival following Wedneda at A.M. Arnival followIng Tuesday second Friday at 8.45 A.M. Every second Satarday at 7.30 A.M. - from Jan. Ist at 2 P.M. Eveyaeoos Thursday from Ee s Tusa - Every second Thursday Arrival follovlag Js aBi at 4 rP.M.,ia from De. c30 at d P.M., fva Jan.6th at 4 P.M., a Teay at M Alexandria. Arrival from Dec.30 at 4 P.M.,o Alexandria. Arrival second Monday at 4.30 A.M. SYrda. AriValecnd econd Saturday at 5 A.M. unday at 6 AM. Every second Saturday from Every sond Saturda 1 Every second Saturday from J xan.1st at Arrival following JTuasday Jan. Ist at noon. Arrival Afro Jn.ftinh iP Jan. n stat noon. Arrival fol- Every second Saturday following Wednesday at A.M. at.3 0 A.M. aylowing Friday at 8.45 A.M. from Jasn sat 4 P.M., - via Syra and Pirseua. Every second Saturday from Ever second Saturday Every second Saturday Arrival Jan. 8th at 4 P.M., via f from Jan. 8th at P.M. ia following Saturday Alexandria. Arrival noon, 1 Alexand ria. ol at 8.30 ArriM.val second Monday at 4.30 A.M. Sday at Al second lowing Saturday at 5 A.M. Every second Monday Every s econd WednesWednesday Every second Wednesday from a t 7P.M., from Jan. 5th at 7 P.M. froJan. 5th at A.M. ria Smyrna, Syrt, aind Arrival following Sunday Arrival fllowing FIrmaE.. Arrival third at 6 A.M. Friday at 8.45 A.M. Saturday at 8.30 A.M. Every econ Wednesdvery second rWednesday Every second Monday from Jan. 12th at 7 A.M.fro jan. 12th at 7 A.M. m Jan. at 7 P.M., Arritl following Suday Arrival fol g i C t nole or at 6 A.M. Friday at 8. A.M. tard Arriva third Al___x______ ____ri. Tuesday at 3 P.M. Every second Friday from. Dec. 31 at 11 A.M. Every second Tuesday 'Arrival sollowlag Monday from Jan. 11.M. at 4.3 A.M. Every Friday norning. at 6 P.M., via Smyrna, Arrival Syra, and Pirmaus. Every second FrSday fromfollowing day at S AM. Arrival Jsa. 7th at n A.o. second Saturday Arrival following Tuesday at 8.30 A.M. at 9.30 A.M. Every second Sariday Aefrory Everod as M an. I at i S P.M. from Jan. 8th at noon. Every second Saturday ra nArrival followingg Monday Arrival fol g day from Jan. 8th at noon, at 4.80 A.M. at 6 A.M. oi Alxt..ndria, Smyrna, -- -Syra, and Piraeus. Every second Sunday from Every seo nddy at rday Arrival Jan. 9th at noon. from Jan. Iat at 10 AM. In 14 days (Saturday) Arrival following Tuesday Arrival following dayat 8.30 A.M, at 9 A. at M AAM. Eve ecod Wednesday Every second W n a e so Wednesday Every second Wednesday from from Jan. th at 4 F.M., tia from Jan. 5th at 4P.M., via Jan. 5th at 4 P.M., via Piraeu, Piraeus, Syra, and Smyrna. iraeus, Syra, and Smyrna. Syra, and Smyrna. Arrival in g M ndayI Arrival rd Sunday Arrival third Friday wees (Wednsday) at A.M. at 6 A.M.at 8.45 AM. Every second Sunday from Every second Sunday from Every second Sunday from Jan. 9t h at 8 A.M., ia Con- Jan. 9tM at 8 A.M., ia Jan. 9th at 8 AM., via stantinople and Smyr a. Arri- Constantinople and Syria. Constantinople and Syria. val second Wednesday at 5A.M. Arrival in 14 days Arrival second Friday ___________________(Sunday) at 6 A.M. M._at 8.45 A.M. _____________ 91 DANUBEt LINES OFSTEAMfERS FOR PASSENGERS.On the Da~nube -F --- —----------— rom Passau to Galatzo On the -fTheiss --- —---— I --- —— From Szegedin to ITitteL. On, the Save --- —----------— From Sissek to, Belgrade. ]DE —PABRTURIES: Frm ASA t IN ~ diy P ru. From LINZ to PASSAUL...daily at 6K AM. "LINZ "VIENNA.".. 7)M Am. VIENNA" LINZ..." "6 AK.M VIENNA "PESTII..". 7 A.i f PESTH "VIEN'NA..'. ""6 p.x From PEBTH to BEMLIN and BELGRADE six times a week. From PEBTH to GIURGEVO (Bucharest) and GALATZ three times a week Fnos Ioeratlie~-Ecefllel Restanratit on Boaa Direct service between VIENNA and COTNSTANTINOPLE twice a we (Sunday and Wednesday) by the Mail Steamers of the Company to RUSTCHIIK, thence by Rail to VARNA, and from. VARNA to CONSTANTINOPLE by the Steamers of the Austrian Lloyd. From VINAto OONBTANTINOPLE, 68 hours only. lro"M OONBTANTINOPLE to VI 'N,86 hours PAIMAUt -Vlotkna to Conastantinople9, WrtClams.6 freo# 210.75; Second Class, free.. 140.25. For further informa tion, apply to the ofl1ce In Vienna, WifisotRAUaBR, HINTERE ZOT-TA TOSTRA8SER 92 INMAN LI0NE. ESTABLISHED 1850." ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS LIVERPOOL to NEW YORK, Tuesdays or Thursdays. NEWYORK to LIVERPOOL, Thursdays or Saturdays. CALLING- Asr QE iENlSTOWW:EACIHI WAY. City of Rone, - - - 8300 Tons. City:f Berlin,. - - - 54 91 City of Richinond, - - - 4607 - City of Chester, - - - - 456 City; cf IMonftral, - - _. - 44A <' City of Brussels, - - - 3775 " City of NTew York, - - 3500 City of Paris, - - - 3081 " The first Transatlantic Line to adopt Lieut. MAURY'S LANE ROUTES, taking the Southerly Course between the months of January and August. These Steamers are built especially to meet the requirements of the Admiralty, and are fitted with water-tight oompam i. a,, -' g;.. ' t. /,;. They are among the strongest, largest, and fastest on the Atlantic, reducing the passage to a minimum, giving thereby especial comfort to passengers. The saloons are large, luxuriously furnished, having revolving armr-chabrs, esecially well lighted and ventilated, and take up the whole widph!of the ship amidships. The principal staterooms are amidships, forward of the engines, where least noise and motion is felt; and all the cabins are particularly light and airy, and replete with every comfort, having all latest improvements, double berths, electric bells, &c. The cuisine has always been a specialitf of this Line. ' * Ladies' cabin and bath-rooms, Gentlenfn's smoking and bath-rooms, Balabers shops, pianos, libraries, &c., provided. RATES OP PASSAGE: Firnt C abiu, payble it Gld. '; To Queenstow and Liverpool, - - - -. $ aW.A$100.STEEIRA.3GE. To or fom Lerpool, Qeenstow,Glasgo, Belfast, adi Lndod, London, or Britol, at Reduoed Rates. For Passage or further information, apply at the Company's Offices. JOHN G.. DALE, Agent, 81 and 88 Broadway. WILLIAM INMAN, Agent, Tower Buildings, 22 Water Street, Liverpool. -; Agencies in all parts of the United States and Europe. -9 HAMBURG-AMERICAN PACKET COM1PANY. DIRECT MAI SER-VICEB MEANS OF THECMAYSRG 1IlIT CLYDE-BIJILT IRON VAIL STEAMERwS* FRISIA., StXICVIAILTGSSING TIEDER GELLERT, '. IEL -,AN,. CI1MIBRIA,9 WI ESTrP HIAIJA, ILESAA, HAMB-UR1G —NEW YORK. Froma HIAMBURG,) every -WEUINESIDAY liorniug.1 Miai MVUE every SATUR1D4Y1. 1 M~orning. Fro 4E,YORJ(, every THUESIRAT. odsg "0Vn, tile trip to, Europe the Steamers touch PLYMOUTH, awd (IHRRIWURG,. tiusform ing a direct, lane to =and and France. Eztra teursfrom Hamburgr twice a b1ea3th 5sa~yXkn) Calilin at Hv~ PRIICE~S OF PASSAGE:W V3irst~ Cabin...............$100 G~iold. Second Cai.0 F'iret iCabin.......... $185 Gxold. Secioud Cabin...................110 Through Tickets are linued fromu Hamburg and Aavre to Sasi Francisco, Japau. Ch ina, Honolulu New Zealand, and Auistralia, via Erie Railway and connecting roads, Pacific Railroad, and Paciilc Mail Steamship Company. HAMBURG-WEST, INDIES. TWO SAILINVGS EVERY MONTH. FWrom H4amburg, - on the 7th and 21st. Friom llav re, on the 10th and 24th. To St. Thomas, San Juan de Puerto RICO, Ponce, Aguadilla, Puerto Plata, Samana, Cape Hayti, Gonatves, Port au Prince, AUX' Cayes, Jacmel, La Guayra, Puerto Cabello, Curacao,-Savanilla, Colon, and via Colon amid Panama to all ports of the Pacific, and via San Francisco to China and Japan., Pries for Steerage Passengers-(Cabin Passengers not admaissible)., FIrom Hamburg or Havre to the West Inies, ~10.10 From the West Indies to H1avre and Hlamburg;, 1 5.00 HAMBURG-HAYTI-GULF OF MEXICO. MONTHLY $AILIRNGS. Fromn HAMBURG on the 27th, Frqjp IAVRE on the 30th, to Cape Hayti, Gonalves, Port atI Prince, Vera CNi; Tampico, and Progreso. Pce bii Ste~erage Passeges(Cabin Passeisgers not admissible'.) Fromt Hamburg, or Har teoyt or the Gulf of Mexico, ~10.10 Fris~ Icyl cu th Guf of Mexico to Hlavre or~ Hamburg, 1.0 HAMBURG...........AUG-UST BOLTEN. LONDON, PLYMOUTH, AND SOUTHAMPTON..............SMITH. SUNDI~US & CO. HAVRE AND PARIS.,..........................3~....;ROSTROM, & Co. CHERBOURG. -v.*..........A. BONFILS & FILS., NE.................... K.UNHARDT & CO. NEW YORK PASSENGER AGENCY..C... B. RICHARD & BOAS. COO APN ALLqAD ~PAtAMA..Ft...............H.M & CAMPBELL. ;nid -UtONas LItNE rs United States Mail Steamers, FOR LIVERPOOL, From Pier New 38, North River, New York, EVERY,TUESDOAY. WYOMING.........3716 Tons. | WISCONSIN.......20 Tons. NEVADA..............12 " ALASKA...........6500 ARIZONA............6300 Tons. [' These Steamers are built of iron, in water-tight compartments, and are furnished wih evry requisite to make the pssage acps heIntit both safe and agreeable-having Bath-Room, Smoking-Room, Drawing-Room, Piano, and Libray, also experienced Surgeon, Stewardess, and Caterer on each Steamer. The State-Rqms ae ll on Deck, thus insuring those greatest of all luxuries at sea, perfect Ventilation and Light. CABIN PASSAGE, according to State-Rooms $60, $80, or $100. INTERXEDIATE, $40. STEERAGE, $28. QOff cefs, No. s -Broadway, New Y.k; WILLIAMS &:JGUION: NATT:ALI LtE N EW:YORK, Renowned for Safety, Comfort, and Regularity. THE kONAL STEAMSHIP OOMPANY, LMITED, Despatch one of their Magnicenut, Full-Powered, British, Iron Screw Steamships From Liverpool to New York Every Wednesday, (Calling at QUEENSTOWN the day following), and From London to New York Weekly. SHIPS. HIP TONSS. S;. S TONS. Egypt..................5064 Helvetia............ 4974 France..................8571 Span................... 4900 Erin.................. 4956 Canada................. 42 7 The Que.............4441 Hlland.............. 8847 Greece............,....480 taly............4802 eamark.............8723 England..............49W0 From New York to Liverpool Every Saturday, and to London Weekly. The SALOONS are unusually spacious, and are particularly well lighted and ventilated. The STATD ROOMS, all' on the Main Deck (in some of the steamers opening off the saloons), are exceptionally large, light, and airy, and are furnished throughout with every requisite to make the ocean passage a comfortable and easy one. Pianos, Ladies' Saloons both on deck and below, Gentlemen's Smoking-Room, and Ladies' and Gentlemen's Bath-Rooms are provided. Tourist Guides, Railway Time-Tables, and Newspapers, supplied for the use of the: ' 'sengrsfree of charge. TH CUIINE IS oF TH VERY IGEST ORDER. SALOON FARES TO NEW YORK-10, 12, and 15 Guineas, according to position of sleeping-room -all having equal saooi privileges. R ETIA2S TxcBTS —22 and 24 Guineas..* ' Saloon Passage from New York to Liverpool or London, by direct steamer, 50 to 70 Dollars Currency. Return Tickets at reduced rates. 1940y. Children under Twelve Years of age, Half Fare. Infants, Free. Tho accommodation for Steerage Passengers is of the highest order. Apply ifParts to SWsrs J, SrARK, 7 Rue Scribe; in London, at the Co eipay's West 'End Omfces and Reading-Rooms, 57 Clharing Cross, or at 36 and 37 Leadenhall Street; in Havre, R. ODINBT; in Berlin, to 'HARLES MtsSIMo, Potsdamner Bfthhof; in Belifst, to HENRY GOWAN, Queen's Square; in Queenstown, to N. & J. CUxMNSs & BROTHERS; and in Liverpool, to 23 Water Street, Liverpool, and 36 iand 37 Leadenhall Street, London, 99 -And In New York to 9F. W. J? BBI, th 9(g0esi Carrying the German and United States Mails. THIS COMPANY ARE THEIR OWN INSURERS. -THE FOLLOWING MAEnriFmm TEAxER5, ELBE, N~aII, O 0JU MELmrON;4,M-AINRHRINWESERHERMA.NNAMER1CA, STRASRR OtriI, IAVO, IRANXURGENERAL WERPER, GRAF -KW W IfG tA. AEAPPOITE TO SAIL EEWEE 1.-BREMEN AND NEW; YORK, Calling 4tt Southampton out and home. From Bremen, every Sunday and Wednesday; from Southampton, every Tuesday; from New York, every, Saturday, and.Wednesday. CA13 iNT FAIRES. To NEW..Yonw from JFrom NECW YORK to Ist BEEMENir SOmTHAxPTON HAVYRE, PAIaS. JBURlIE, S OuTRAmoxPT - LONDON, HAYRE. Cabin: 1100 Mks. ~23 F. 600 F. 615 I1st Cabin..'".......$100 Gold. 2d do: IlO0lMks. ~13 F'.81 F'. 88 1!d Cabin......80 Gold. II. BREMEN Af3BALTIMORE. From Bremen, Wednesafy,, weekly. From Baltimore, Tharsday, weekly. Fromp Bremen to Baltimore. 400 Marks. I From Baltim ore to B remen......$90 Gold. III. -BRE 'NAND NEW ORLEANS, Calling at Havre and Havana, once a month, ftom September until May. TO HA&VANA and NEW ORLEANS from I From HEAVAN(A and NEW ORLEANS to BREHEN, SOUTHAMPTON, HAVUE, PARIS. BREHmEN, SOUTHAMPTON, HAVRE, PARWS. 630 M~ks.. ~111 10s. F. '170 F. 83 $150 Gold. -IV. BREMEN AND BAHIA, RIO DE- JANEIRO, AND SANTOS, Calling at Antwerp and Lisbon. Departure from Bremen 25th- n~rp pb 'Lishon, tho th of each month. r,2h V. REMEN' AND) MONTEVIDEO AND BUENOS AR8 Ca~ing at 4ntwer and oreaux.,Departere -frmreelt;.nwr,14;Boda, 19th ofeach month. AGENTS IN LONDON.... KELLER., WALLIS, &POSTLEKTHWArTE, 16 & 17 King Williamn St. H. C. PHILLWPPS& GpI.vzs, St. Dunstan's House, Idol Lane, 15 C SOUTHAMPTON.KELLE... ~.....R, W~iiIA~t's &PHT5Tl-Y ~5 PARIS AND HAVRE.................. LEERIIE7rE, KAwkE,& Co " NEW YORK.O.. *..s.&..Co.,.No...2.... NnSIOGreen. it BALTtMORE...I A. ScHUxAcRER & co. NEW OREN....E.F Tocqlezyxit & Co. HAVNA.it IPAN &, co. ANTWERP..........................B. DEc VtEEsHoUWE 'al LISBON...Kowi o B3ORDEAUX.............CXa& KoxHLrc& 011199 of &4vOPpv~;1F WU)R Pe~tAau 4 SA STEAMSHIP ALSATIA..,. 38500w T KMKHW CIASSIA...4000 Tons ANCHORIA...4000" " DEVONIA....4000 " ANGLIA.....3500 "!' ELYSIA....:500 " AUSTRALIA..3500 " ETHIOPIA...4000 BOLIVIA.....4000 UTOPIA......3500 C 40" ". " ".- 3500 CALIFORNIA. 3500 " I ". IiA.....4000 Royal and United States Mail Steamships. The abovepteamrnip will sail as under: FROM GLASGOW TO NEW YORK, Via Moville, Every Saturday. From LONDON to NW ~YORK direct Once a Week. FROM NEW YORK TO GLASGOW, Via Moville, Every Saturday. From NEW YORK to LONDON Once Every Week. Passenger accommodation b te emer equaled for eomort adF cnvenience. Staterooms and Saloons elegantly fitted up with every improvement. Ladies' Retiring Cabins, SmokingRooms, Baths, Ie-Houses, and every luxury. FARES.-Saloon Cabin, 13, 14, 15, and 16 Guineas, according to the location of sttesrroomsal other prigviaes -bfnt alike.: Children at proportionate rates. Return Tickets, good for twelve months, on favorable terms. Fares from New Yorlk from $51 to $80. ForCabin and Steerage Passengers carried at Lowest Rates, and are well found. SteamFrs from all Italian Ports Direct to New York Twice Monthly. For f erjnformatiQn, apply to any of the ANCHOR LINE Agents, to be found all over the Cntinent; or.to.. HENDERSON BROTHERS, 7 Bowling Green, New.York;. 96 Washington St., Chicago; 3: ue. Scribe, Pais; 17. Water St., Liverpool; 49 U-nion St,; lsgow; and19 Ladenhall St., London. * West Indies, and Spanish Main. THE COMPANY'S FLEET 0F STEAMERS. TOwS TN TONS. ALBANO.'.' I~........ 0 AL.... 2200 AILSA...2200 AL~INX..... 2200 ANDES. 1800 ALVENA_. 1800 ATHO.........2200 ALPS............1800 CLARIBEL.10 ATLAS.. 1409 AL,.00 RAN. 500 ETNA....4Ol MWZ. 80 AD~lfba~cht~ser).. 100 For Kigsown, land all (Iutports of Jamaica, Savanilla,, Carthagena, and -Aspinwall.. EVERY ALTERNATE THURSDAY FQr P~ort-aul -Prince,,Aux Cayes, and Jacuiel. EVERY- THREE~ WEE~IM For Cape Hayti, Gonaives, St. Marc, Jerernie, Porto Rico, Mar~aeaibo, North Jamaica, Greytown, and Port Limon. Through,,,ilis of Lading and Passage Tcesissuedabetween all Ports at which the'Bteamers cal nErp and Canada. Cunard,p White St~r, ]Lumen,% And Gulon,-Linei, to an fromn Liverpool. Worthd'0erman Lloyd, to~ and from. Uirmen. Hamburg-American Packet Company, to and from Hfamaburg. RdtasldWhite C*0oss Lines,~ An u~ froni Antwerp. General Transatlantic Lines,, to and from Havre and Marseilles. Anchor Line, to and from London and Glasgow. State Line, to and from Giasgwow and Belfast. Mediterranean Steamship company, to and- from Genoa and Naples. PASSENGER PARES. FROM NEW YORK. Betwe'en New 'York and Kingston..$50 gld "i " Cape Haytii......0............" Port-an-Prince.7....................0" and return.120.. Aux Cayes, Jacrnel,......rcabo Colmban orsl hireytoWn....... -Colon...................... $50 and " Serviants, aeeom~panytimg tIheir ~nsployer~i, ttwo-thfrdm bo Children under 3 years, free; between 3 and 12, haltftare. Pim,~ FORWOOD, & CO.,,,Genera1 Agei~ts, 37- WWI 'tO t* New York. FOIWOOD BROS.-AVG., Agats2, LCH, IIAIitiS, FOR1WOOD, XAaagrs, WNDON. IVRPOOL UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS BETWEEN Liverpool and Philadelphia. The first-class, full-powered Iron Stealmships PENNSYLVANIA. INDIANA. KENILWORTH. ABEOTSFORRD. OHIO.. ILLI.N'lI A.... ' o. From Liverpool for Philadelphia every Wednesday. From Philadelphia for Liverpool every Thursd. Calling at QOeenstow,' ta embark ad lanZd Mails and; asseners. THE AMERICAN STEAMSHIP-COM^PANY it the only TRANSATLANTIe LiS sailing under the UNITED STATES FLAG. All he te imers are fittedwithLife RaftS, in aldition to an extra numberof Life-Boats and Lifereservers. -thi a n^6omfiodafo fr allf clates of A ssengers is equal in elegance and comfort to any of the European Steamship Lines. Every Steamer carries a Surgeon and Stewardes.. Cabin Passage, 15 to 20.Guineas; Return Tickets at reduced rates. St^! ie Pfasasage as' low as by any ther Line,. Intenmediat 'Passage. Sperior accommodation, including BedS, Bedding, and all nec sry Utensils, and separate table,: 35. extra. AppXr:n i im Andrews &' Co., O1 Place Vendome; in Havre, to Burs & MacIver; in Antwerp~ t. H,4lia:& Co.; in Rtterda to abersie & Son; n Bordeau, to James Moss & Co.; iin H,amgo to Uhlmann & Co.; in LondoU, to Gilead A. Smith:& o., 23 Change-alley, Lombard Street; in Glasgow, to M. Langlands & Sons; in Dundee, to J. T. Inglis; in Belfast, to E. J, L Addy 3 Custom-Houe Square; in Queenstown, to N. & J. Camins & Brothers; in Liverpool to ~CHARDSONSPC, &0., 17 & 19 Water Street. Andin Philadelpha, to P W & SeoW&.nf General Ageunt,:7 Walnut Street. DO WOT GO RABRAD Without a supply of that invaluable companion to the ocean traveller, TARRANT'S SELTZER APERIENT, This most potent of all Saline Cathartics is especially beneficial in preparing one, not only to eioy the voyage, bui bby its use much of the-ills and discomfiorts edet tW. e.imate, diet water, &c., may be avoided. '. It is aways tea or use. o t wtwt MANUFACTURED ONLY BY TAR R ANT & C O., Wholesale Drggists, NEW YORK. Venice. Grand Hotel Royal Danieli This beautiful firstPalace, in the most d, Conversation, Smoking on the arrival of each,rds. An Interpreter GENOVESI & CASINO OF MONAC O. *!; X ru e/ 1if t -J i. Open all the Vear. To name MONACO is to name the land above all, the land over which the blue canopy of heaven signs forever,tJale.an4 of the murmuring wave and of the orange-tree. t | * Clbse to' Monaco he fi ei iteArlo -eebrated in all the itineraries of European aristocracy-rears its lofty head. At first sight a magnificent panorama is opened to view; tI-heW o td i ps terraces, the balustrades descending to the vorye Of Medite an Sea, the superb palmtrees, and the flowers rese lent with p er t lt rder the marble stairs, the fountains, grottoes, garde;, ':' t irbt e prinely residence, form a series of fine prospects well worth seeing. Above these terraces rises and extends an edifice of a partly Athenian, partly Italian} and partly Renaissance style of architecture. 'The afasc-inatey edwei dawels ion dnaes, peistles, pilasters, and pavilions ornamented with exquisite frescoes, upon flights of steps embroidered with heliotrope plants and dying roses. In the midst of this fairy extravaganza, fancy a life and movement of fashionables assembled from all parts of the world; add to this the sounds of music escaping in the aftinoon from what resembles a golden cage filledwith the most talented artistes chosen from those in universal renown. Besides this we must not forget the "eternal Spring" of the island of Calypso. There is a great deal of Calypso in the Casino of Monaco. If Telemachus could onlynowiee aUs enter its stately interior, he would never dream of leaving it aga.i Mentor himself might then be seen hoveing round the gaining tables. This ii an entertainment no longer offered by the Homburg, Baden-Baden, and Wiesbaden establishments. At the Monaco Casino ouloette is played with a single ero; the smallest amount staked is five francs, and the highest 6000 ($1200). At Trente-etQuarante gold only can be staked, the smallest amount being 20 francs, and the highest 12,000 ($2400). These are technical details that must be excused, but will certainly go home to those who rea interested. The Casino of Monaco s open all the year, and all the year round there is an uninterrupted affluence of visitors. In summer the Sea-Baths, that have acquired a just renown, are the attraction; the sand is fine and soft, and the Mediterranean operates miraculous cures. In winter a Stsand different;obecs attract, for it is: the season for fites, and those of Monaeoiae unrivale - The pncipl atios from the Paris Theatres, the greatest "virtuosi "and most celebrated singers, give entertainments almost daily. We do ut nt$the in eros and ispedid balls given by thenmanagement, that attract not only the elie of high society of Nice, but also the colonief.of.Menton and CS I, -- - 1A< X14;T D, C' MADISON SQUARE, A Favorite Family Hotel. Rates as Reasonable as any. NEW YORK. C. H-I. READ, Proprietor. L. DELMONICO, RESTAURATEUR, 2 South William St., 22 Broad Street, *!13 Broadway, and Madison Square, NEW EYORK- CITY. 103 NEz. Y1ORK. BREVOORT HOUSE. 1, r ~L *~.- * " _ _; r., This well-known Hotel is located on Fifth Avenue, corner of Eighth Street (Clinton Place), near Washington Park-one of the most delightful locations in the City, combining the quiet retirement of a private mansion with easy access to all parts of the City. The BREVOORT has alwaybefin; f vorite 'r t Europeans vis itin:k te[ lt' — th lan upon which it is kept beg s^h, toas petsecially commend tit to those accustomed to European habits. C. B. WAITE. 104 IN EVERY RESPECT * B FIRST-CLASS. IT IS THOROUGHLY FIRE-~P ROO F. THE1 VNDOMIE Is -NOW GPENT H 1~~O Conveniently Situated, Delightfully Surrounded, Grand In the Exterior, Exlegat In the interior, Competent management, all, modern Convent~iees, Attentive Service, Everything N~ew. J. 'W. WVOLCOTT, Proprietor. (1OGEon G. PRESBURY, of Baltimore. DAVID Mi. IHILDRETH, of New York. WES'T END HOTELI AND COTTA-GES. PRESBURY & HILDUETH, Owners and Proprietors. ILONG BR1-ANCH, N.- J. 106 THE CONTIN'NTAL HOTEL, PHILADELPHIA. J. E.-< KINGSLEY &, CO., PROPRIETORS. Unsurpassed in location, appointments, organization, cuisine; and possessing every modern improvement for the comfort of visitors. It is conducted on a scale of liberality not surpassed by any in the United States. Guests are entertained on the American plan at rates ranging from $3 00 TO $4 00 PER DAY, According to size and location of rooms; Private Parlors and other extra accommodations in reasonable proportion. Sketches and Studies in S thern Europe. By JOHN ADDINGTON SYMONDS. In Two Volumes. Post 8so, Cloth, $4O 00. Mr. Symonds is almost the only person who can give in black and white the color, the atmosphere, the story, and the sentiment of Greek and Italian cities; of the ruinous haunts of ancient luxury; of the coasts and enchanted islands of the Mediterranean.-Saturday Review, London. Mr. Symond's essays on Italian art and Italian literature are always delightful as well as instructive reading. They owe their charm partly to the author's intimate knowledge of, and intense sympathy with, his subject, and partly to his graceful and flowing style. —cotsman, Edinburgh. ',., d: aders will find in these "Sketches and Studies" fresh evidence of the refined taste, the cultured enthu, t brilliant descriptive power, which make all that Mr. Symonds writes so ccceptable.-j.'BflT, London. For ns of art: and nature in Italy no praise cold be t high.Spectator,- Londogn.' -:.-. We vstil re enjoyed the essays on a second reading; * * we fel everywhere the presence o culture and scholarship and liberal sympathiea-.Westiaister Review, London. PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORx..3 HAtRER & BROTiHs wll send Ite above weork bi tmail, posage prepaid on receipt of the price. 10O W 59 Wall Street, New York, 211 Chestnut St!t,?il~elpbia,' ad So Saute Street,Botn A LXANY SW &SNS, Oorne Batmr-a B~~ tetBaltimore. On G~reat I13ritain and Ireland, F'ranoe, G-ermany,]3elgiuxtx, and Iffolland. ISSUE COMMERCIAL ANID TRAVELLERS' REDITS' IN ST-ERLING, Available in any part of the World; and in Francs, for Use in Martinique, and Guadeloupe., Make Telegr'aphic(,~ Transfers of ~Money Between thi sand other Countrios through London and Paris. Make Oallections. of ])raits -drawu abroad on, all -points, in th4 United Staites and aanada, and of Drafts draninteUid states on Foren Oounukies. 'I& TRA tLR&-1,Yll Credits issue4 either against v~*h depeslta or satifletory guarantee ot repayment: in Dollars, for use in the United States and adjace~nt countrlies; 'or in Pounds Sterling, for use in any part of the world. Application for credits may be addressed to eiterofthabvehouses direct, or through any, flrst-clas ak rBakr BROWN, SHIPLEY, &CO., BROWN, SilIPLEY_, A CO. 28 Chapel Street,: Liverpool. Founder's (burt, Lothbury, Leaden. MESSRS.:i TFF.ANY & Ci., UNION SQUARE NEW YORK. AVENUE DE L'OPERA 36bi, PARIS. Tourists are invited to call at the PARIS: HOUSE,:where carefully selected Diamonds, Pearls, Rubies, Cats-eyes, and other Colored Gems, may be leisurely examined, either in paper or settings. A stock of Tiffany & Co.'s American Silverware will also be displayed hereafter; and Americans in Europe, wishing appropriate gifts for friends there, will have the opportunity of making selections as well as if at home. 108 THE PARIS COMMUNE. THE RISE AND FALL OF THE PARIS COMMUNE IN 1871; with a Full Account of the Bombardment, Capture, and Burning of the City. By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, an Eye-Witness of the Events described, Editor of "s and- o Eroan TravlHarper's Hand-Book of European TravelHaer's Phrase-Book," &c. With a Map of Paris and Portraits from Original Photographs. Large 12mo, 516pages, Cloth, $ 00. Published by HARPER & BROTEBs, N. Y. FROM NAPOLEON III. 4th November, 1871. Monsieur W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, Paris. MoNSIEUR,-The Emperor has charged me to inform you that he has received your letter, also your history of the Paris Commune. His Majesty has read the work with the greatest interest, and has requested me to express to you his sincere thanks. Receive, Monsieur, the assurance of my distinguished consideration. COUNT DAVILLIER. FROM MR. WASHBURNE. LEGATION OF THE UNITED STATES, PARIS, October 27th, 1871. MY DEAR MR. FETRIDGE: You have my sincere thanks for sending me a copy of your history of the Commune of Paris. I have read it with great pleasure. You have grouped together the facts and given your narrative all the interest of a romance. In after years the perusal of it will bring to our minds the wonderful events which you and I witnessed, and which filled the civilized world with horror. Believe me, my dear Mr. Fetridge, Very sincerely and truly yours, E. B. WASHBURNE. W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, Esq., Paris. FROM GENERAL READ, United States Consul General. PARIS, 37 AVENUE D'ANTIN, CHAMPS ELYSEES, N1ovember 9th, 1871. My most sincere thanks attend you, my dear Mr. Fetridge. I have read the history of the Commune with absorbing interest, and I must frankly confess that you have deprived me of two nights' rest. Not that I look upon my time as lost, for your narrative is woniderfully attractive. It is also so consecutive in its treatment that the stirring and terrible scenes of that most remarkable drama in French history, through which we both passed, arise before me with almost painful accuracy. You have given to the world the most complete and the most picturesque idea of the extraordinary events of the Second Siege which has appeared. A sorewhat intimate acquaintance with the difficulties attending such a literary performance-amongothers the apparent impossibility of separating factfrom fiction-enables me to congratulate you most heartily upon the tact and judgment which you have displayed in the construction of your work. You and I do not agree upon certain points; but, when we differ, I am led to respect your ability, and to admirhete skill with which you present certain arguments to which I can not entirely gve my assent. You deserve great credit for having remained in your exposed quarters, coolly watching the events whose progress you were chronicling moment by moment. Having witnessed your sangfroidduring the most trying hours, I am happy to bear my personal testimony to your entire fitness to judge dispassionately the situation. With renewed acknowledgments, therefore, and great respect, Ihave the honor to remain, my dear Mr. Fetridge, your friend, JOHN MEREDITH READ, JR., M.R.S.A., F.R.S.NA W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, Esq., 13Avenu e l'Imperatrice, Paris. 7 109 HARPE1R{S PHLRASE-BOOK; OR, HAND-BOOK OF TRAVEL TALK FOR TRAVELERS AND SCHOOLS. BEING A Guide to Conversation in English, French, German and Italian, ON A NEW AND IMPROVED METHOD. Intended to accompany "Harper's Hand-Book for Travelers." By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, Author of "Harper's Hand-Book," "Rise and Fall of the Paris Commune in 1871," &c.; ASSISTED BY PROFESSOS OF IIEIDELBERG UNIVEItITY. With Conlise and Explict RBles for the Pronuncation of the difebrent Languges. Square 4to, Flexibli Cloth, $1 5O0. * * * We do not hesitate to pronounce this the best-prepared rolume of its class that has ever come under our eye. By experience Mr. Fetidge has ascertaid what is wa, and he has made a volume to meet the popular demand.Boton Journal.", ' ito LAWS AND REGULATIONS OF SHORT WHIST. ADOPTED BY THE WASHINGTON CLUB OF PARIS. Compiled from the Best Modern Authorities, and as Played in the Principal Clubs of London and Paris, and in the First Saloons of both Capitals; with Maxims and Advice for Beginners. By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, AUTHOR OF "HARPER'S HAND-BOOKS, " "THE RISE AND FALL OF THE PARIS COMMUNE," "HARPER'S PHRASE-BOOK," ETC., ETC. OPINIONS OF0 THE PRMESS. Lovers of the game cannot fail to welcome and be interested in this lively little manual. * * * The technical terms are lucidly defined, and then follow the rules proper, 95 in number, involving many nice points and subtle discriminations. * * * The maxims for beginners and the general instructions which follow them indicate a close scrutiny and thorough understanding of the game, and will be found valuable to many who already consider themselves experts.-New York Times. The little book is an adjunct which should be in the hands of every devotee of the noble game.-New York Era. This book is written to combat and confute some decisions made by self-constituted authorities, in which decisions are contrary to Hoyle, and against all the laws and usages of Whist clubs.-St. Louis Republican. The preface is very amusing in the sarcastic tone it adopts toward "Cavendish," whom it overhauls unmercifully as a pretender, and whose claim as a final authority it disputes. The rules of the game are laid out with great clearness, and the maxims and advice given for the benefit of students and beginners are comprehensive and logical, and founded upon the soundest principles. The best method of play for each hand is thoroughly argued, and there is a very valuable table of deductions or inferences to be drawn from leads and play. In short, this little volume merits the attentive consideration of amateur whist players, to whom it will prove of the greatest service.-Saturday Evening Gazette, Boston. This little book will undoubtedly be welcomed by all lovers of the game, and settles some disputed questions.-Chicago Tribune. The value of this volume (albeit it is not a large one) consists in the calm and logical manner in which the subject discussed is treated, the clearness of the definitions given, the thorough acquaintance with the topics presented, which is manifest on every page, and the con amore and sympathetic tone which interpenetrates everything that is said. A very interesting and subjective preface is followed by a short introduction. After a statement of the different games of whist, technical terms are defined, and then come the ninety-five rules of Short Whist of the Washington Club of Paris. The leading topics of the remainder of the book are maxims and advice for students and beginners, asking for trumps, the original lead, leads generally, second hand, third hand, passing the trick or finessing, fourth hand, deductions or inferences from leads and plays, and the thirteenth card. To every lover of whist, and to every one who wishes to learn the game, we unhesitatingly commend this volume.-Troy Morning Whig. Nowhere outside of England is whist more played among the better classes than in Virginia, and we do not doubt that this volume will meet here a cordial reception.-I-ndex and Appeal, Petersburg, Va. We have no doubt that this little manual will become the standard authority.-Boston Traveller. The book is certainly the best compendium of the laws of this great social game that we have yet seen.-St. John Globe, St. John, N. B. The editor has left no source of information unsought, and the result of his investigations will be found of the highest value.-St. Louis Globe-Democrat. Lovers of this time-honored pastime will be interested in this handy little guide to accurate playing.-National Journal of Education, Boston. The author gives much valuable advice to lovers of this noble game.-Baltimore Gazette. It is accompanied with maxims and advice for beginners, and its treatment of the subject is most thorough, systematic, and exhaustive.-Boston Commercial Bulletin. With two hundred other notices of similar character. NEW YORK: —HARPER & BROTHERS. LONDON:-W. J. ADAMS & SONS, 69 FLEET STREET. PARIS — GALIGNANI & CO., 224 RuE RIOLI. 111 17 VALUABLE AND INTERESTING WORKS FOR PUBLIC & PRIVATE LIBRARIES, PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK. Ir For a full List of Books suitable for Libraries published by HARPER & BROTHIns, see HARPER'S CATALOGUE, which may be had gratuitously on application to the publishers personally,or by letter enclosing Nine Cents in Postage stamps. MW HARPER & BROTnERS will send their publications by mail, postage prepaid, on receipt of the price. MACAULAY'S ENGLAND. The History of England from the Accession of James II. By THOMAS BABINGTON MACAULAY. 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In one vol., 8vo, Sheep, $4 00. BAKER'S ISMAILIA. Ismailia: a Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the Suppression of the Slave-trade, organized by Ismail, Khedive of Egypt. By Sir SAMUEL WHITE BAKER, PASHA, F.R.S., F.R.G.S. With Maps, Portraits, and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Calf, $7 25. GRIFFIS'S JAPAN. The Mikado's Empire: Book I. History of Japan, from 660 B.C. to 1872 A.D. Book II. Personal Experiences, Observations, and Studies in Japan, 1870-1874. By WILLIAM ELLIOT GnrFIS, A.M., late of the Imperial University of TSkiS, Japan. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00; Half Calf, $6 25. SMILES'S HISTORY OF THE HUGUENOTS. The Huguenots: their Settlements, Churches, and Industries in England and Ireland. By SAMUEL SMILES. With an Appendix relating to the Huguenots in America. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 00. SMILES'S HUGUENOTS AFTER THE REVOCATION. The Huguenots in France after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes; with a Visit to the Country of theVaudois. 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FOR SALE, ALSO, AT WHOLEALE AND RETAIL, TROUSSEAUX, LAYETTES, WHITE ROBES, SKIRTS, NAPKINS, TOWELS, &c., &c., &c. M Hotels, Restaurants, Hospitals, Steamboats, Seminaries, Convents, &c., supplied wit their Linen at the lowest possible price.:The GRANDE MAISON DE BLANC, founded but a few years ago, is without doubt th most useful commercial affair that has been created in Paris. The multiplicity of articl which this vast establishment contains renders a Catalogue necessary even to persons w have for a long time honored the house with their confidence. After the Exposition of London, which recognized tne superiority of its articles to thos of other nations, it was necessary for the French industry to centre in one hand the fabrica tion of the nation, and thus to increase its value. ^Uniting the products of the first mann ftories, and manufacturing itself, the GRANDE MAImON becomes the direct andtrue repr sentative of French fabrication. 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