TANNING LEATHER
FACILITATED,
BY
DAVID H. KENNEDY'S
P R O CE S S.












ti~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
Fit~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:i




THE ART
OF
TANNING LEATHER;
BY
A NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM
THEORETICALLY AND PRACTICALLY
CONSIDERED IN ALL ITS DETAILS.
Discovered, and Pat ente.d, April 14th, 1857.
BY
DAVID H. KENNEDY,
OF
NETV ALEXANDRIA, PENNSYLVANIA.
Illustrated with Twenty-five Wood Engravings and a Portrait of the Author.
bTirb Ebition, tuitD bitiont.
NEW YORK:
BAKER & GODWIN, PRINTERS, NO. 1 SPRUCE STREET.
1857.




Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by
DAVID H. KENNEDY,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the
Southern District of New York.




LETTERS PATENT GRANTED
IN
ENGLAND, IRELAND, WALES, THE CHANNEL ISLANDS
AND THE ISLE OF MAN,
On the 4th day of January, A. D. 1854.
FRANCE,
On the 20th day of February, A. D. 1854.
BELGIUM,
On the 27th day of April, A. D. 1854.
THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,.
On the 14th day of April, A. D. 1857.
RUSSIA AND SPAIN APPLIED FOR.
BY
DAVID H. KENNEDY,
OF NEW ALEXANDRIA, PENNSYLVANIA.




These directions, when filled up, are not to be left
exposed to the examination of such as may desire to
possess themselves of their secrets. But should, for the
benefit of the Patentee as well as the purchaser, be
strictly kept from the public eye.




CONTENTS.
PAGEL
Preface........           11
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTION.
Returns of the Census of A. D. 1852, showing
the condition of the Tanning interest.....  13
CHAPTER II.
The different kinds of Skins suitable for Tanning-Buenos Ayres hides-Brazilian hides
-Cow-hides-American Ox-hides-Spanish
or South  American dry hides —Calcutta
or Nagore hides-Calf-skins-Horse-hidesGoat-skins - Sheep-skins - Deer-skins-and
the Mode of Salting hides.............   37
1*




6                 CONTENTS.
PAGE.
CHAPTER III.
Structure and Composition of the Skin-Fibrine
-Gelatine- Albumen  Animal MatterTannic Acid uniting with Gelatine and
forming Leather.......................  59
CHAPTER IV.
Soaking, Softening, and Washing Hides-An
Illustration, with a Description of the Hidemill and Washing-machine..........    69
CHAPTER V.
Composition No. 1.
For removing Hair, Wool, Grease, Mucus, and
other impurities from the Skins-An Illustration, with a full description of the Beamhouse....................... 81
CHAPTER VI.
Bating.
Reducing the Skins to their Original Thickness...*......... 91




CONTENTS.                 7
PAGE.
CHAPTER VII.
The Properties of the Ingredients used in the
Composition for Tanning-Their effects upon
the Hides-The Places of Production-The
New York Prices..................  95
CHAPTER VIII.
Composition No. 2.
For Tanning-The proper proportions of Ingredients, with full and clear Directions for
using them-A Description of the Barkometer................................ 109
CHAPTER IX.
Exawnple.
Tanning one hundred common-sized Calf-skins, 121
CHAPTER X.
Example.
Tanning thirty Ox-hides for the Manufacture
of Patent Leather-The Handling-house,
with Notes-Splitting-machine..... i..  1.33




8                 CONTENTS.
PAGEr
CHAPTER XI.
Example.
Tanning fifty sides of Sole-leather........... 149
CHAPTER XII.
Currying and Finishing Leather-Shaving
Harness Leather-Blacked Bridle-Russet
Bridle- Horse Leather-Wax  LeatherGrained Leather-Patent Leather........  167
CHAPTER XIII.
The Texture and Quality of Leather........ 185
CHAPTER XIV.
Remarks on Tanning-Illustration of Clinton
Tannery, with Notes...................   195
CHAPTER XV.
The Mechanics' True Position.
A Word of Cheer to the Hearty Tanner..... 217




CONTENTS.                  9
PAGE.
CHAPTER XVI.
The Tanners' Cheer.
Illustrated by a Party of Tanners Singing the
words to the tune of the Marseillaise Hymn, 243
CHAPTER XVII.
Copy of Patent granted, in the United States,
on the 14th day of April, 1857........... 249
CHAPTER XVIII.
Copy of Specification of Patent............ 253








PREFACE.
THE following directions have been
prepared expressly for information as to
the practical application of scientific
principles which characterize the progress of the improvement, and are
offered to that portion of the public
which is interested in the leather and
tanning business.
Like every other art, that of tanning
has lately made great progress towards
perfection. Ingenious and practical men
have devoted their energies to actual
experiments, and chemical agencies have
been employed with varied success,




12  PREFACE.
until, at length, the desideratum seems
to have been attained, which affords a
new and complete substitute for the
manufacturing of all kinds of leather.
This must soon give it a world-wide
celebrity, and entitle it to the attention
of all concerned in the leather business.
The Patentee, Mr. K., takes great pleasure in giving a comprehensive description of the different preparations for
using the improvement; and I subscribe
my hearty good wishes for the success of
the invention for the purpose of procuring the desired information. Inquiries have been directed to the consultation of Sir Humphrey Davy, Professors
Turner and Ure, and several other celebrated authors. In this way the author
has obtained the most accurate knowle'dge of the chemistry of tanning, and
for giving a full and comprehensive
treatise on.changing hides into leather.




CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION.
THE art of tanning is that by which
animal skins are converted into leather,
a product differinig entirely from that
of the raw material, and adapting it
to the useful purpose for which it is
employed. The properties imparted are
of a physical nature, and vary with the
kind of skin employed and the modifications of the process which it undergoes.
Chemically considered, however, leather
is a definite compound of tannin and
gelatin. Tanning, as an art, dates as
2




14       i   INTRODUCTION.
far back as nine hundred years before
Christ. The methods resorted to in
early times consisted of little more
than merely cleansing and drying the
skins; and, thus prepared, the latter
were used for clothing, &c. Leather
was largely in use among the ancient
Egyptians, and the workers 6f that
material were so numerous that the
Memnonian quarter, Thebes, was characterized as their especial locality. Their
skill in fashioning it was so great that
ornaments of all shapes and devices
were made from it. Leather was made
by them into tapestry, and many of the
Egyptian tombs bear representations of
artificers in leather engaged in the
several branches of their vocation.
The principal steps in'the manufacture of leather are the washing and
soaking, for the purpose of cleaning and
softening the skins, and preparing them




INTRODUCTION.         15
for the removal of the hair. This is
effected by the use of lime, or other
substances which destroy, dissolve, or
soften the bulbous roots of the hair,
and thus facilitate its removal by
mere mechanical scraping with a bluntedged knife. During this part of the
process, another important end is generally accomplished in the swelling of
the tissues and their preparations for
the more complete and easy absorption
of the tanning principle. The primitive
mode of removing the hair was that of
shaving it off with a knife; but the use
of lime was known even among the
early Egyptians. When the rationale
of depilation is better understood by
practical tanners, the slow and inconvenient process of depilation by means
of lime must give place to more effective,
rapid, and  economical methods.  In
later times, these defects were remedied




16          INTRODUCTION.
by immersing the cleansed and dehaired skin in an infusion of oak bark
or solution of alum, and thus, by effecting a union between one or more constituents of the liquor and a gelatinous
tissue of the skin, producing a new
compound with  desirable properties.
The principles governing this reaction
have been, in more recent days, developed by the investigations of Proust,
Deyeaux, McBride, and Sir Humphrey
Davy; and it is owing to the researches
of these inquirers that the occupation of
the tanner has been elevated from the
condition of an empirical pursuit to that
of an art based upon scientific principles. Many improvements in the art
have been made by the aid of ingeniously contrived machinery, and much
has been done to hasten the process of
tanning.
Tanning consists in the combination of




INTRODUCTION.         1 7
the gelatinous tissue with tannin by immersing the skins in an infusion of oak
bark or other substances containing
tannin. The tanning influence is probably not exerted solely by the tannin,
but also partly by the extractive matter,
more or less of which always exists in
the tanning material.
During the soaking, the epidermis of
the skins disappears, and the tissue of
the latter is gelatinized, and thus predisposed to chemical union with the tannin.
This gelatinization of the tissues is allessential, and is promoted by the gallic
acid fermentation of the tanning material. This is the more probable science.
The same effect may be produced by
the use of a very dilute acetic, and
other operations intended to perfect the
quality and appearance of the leather.
Leather is employed for many useful
and ornamental purposes; and numerous
2*




18           INTRODUCTION.
are its applications to various branches
of industry. Besides its extensive use
for covering the head and feet, wearing
apparel, saddles, harness, carriages, and
the purposes of the book-binder, it is
largely employed for the embellishment
of objects of taste and ornament. Independently of the direct importance
of the leather trade, it exerts a very
decided incidental influence in developing the resources of a country, by
giving value to certain materials used
in and resulting from  its manufacture.
Besides the immense employment which
it gives to thousands of artisans, it has
built up colonies and towns, which owe
their origin and progress entirely to the
interests connected with it. Even the
waste materials of slaughter-houses, tanneries, curriers' shops and workers in
leather, have important applicationsthe horns serving for the manufacture




INTRODUCTION.         19 
of combs, buttons, and umbrella furniture; the h-air for plastering; the spent
lime for the farmer; the skin-clippings
for the glue-boiler; and the leather
shavings for the manufacturer of prussiate of potash. The following statements will give an idea of the vast
extent and rapid increase of the trade
in leather.
In France-a country eminent for the
quantity and quality of the leather
which it produces-the average number
of skins annually converted into leather
is about three millions of whole skins,
exclusive of sheep and calf skins. In
the United States, the manufacture of
leather is only beginning to be of much
importance. Since the early part of
the present century it has been rapidly
extended, until it has become, with its
allied and dependent arts, one of the
most prominent'elements of national




20          INTRODUCTION.
prosperity.  This improved system  is
conducted in the most simple and primitive manner. The expenditure both of
time and labor is now materially reduced by the different modes and
treatment of the process. The unparalleled success which has attended the
introduction of the patent process set
forth in this work, and the. fittering
encomiums bestowed upon the  directions given in a former edition, induce
me to extend them a little farther,
hoping they will be understood by all
those who will avail themselves of this
improved system for the manufacture of
leather.
I have extended the information in
this, the third edition of directions, and
hope that my fellow-tanners will read
them with a generous allowance for the
imperfect style in which they are given;
hoping, also, that they will keep in




INTRODUCTION.        21
mind that they are not fiction, but sober
truths, intended expressly for the application of the process.
For some time past my whole time
and attention have been given exclusively to the introduction of this process, believing from  the first that its
merits would, in time, bring it into
generaluse, which is now acknowledged
to be a fixed fact by those most conversant with it. Its general adoption
is now only a question of time; for as.
fast as it becomes known it is adopted.
This being the case, I wish to give all
the information I can respecting the
manner and different methods of using
it. To those tanners who have adopted
and seen fit to recommend this new
process for tanning leather, I return my
sincere thanks, and assure them that
their kindness to me, and approbation
of the improvement, will not be forgotten.




22          INTRODUCTION.
We append a statistical table, compiled from the returns of the seventh
census, showing the condition of the
tanning interest.
The National Intelligencer compiles,
from the census returns, the following
table of the tanneries in the United
States, in A. D. 1850:
No. of establishments,..    9,263
Capital invested,... $18,900,557
Value of raw material,.   19,613,237
Value of product,..      32,861,796
The number of hides is 6,128,070;
skins, 2,653,865; and about 6,000,000
sheep, goat, and other small skins tanned and dressed annually, which are not
included in the number. The number
of hands employed is 20,909 males and
102 females. The monthly wages of
the males amount to $41;6,214; of the
females, $970. The number of sides of




INTRODUCTION.        23
leather produced annually, is 12,557,940,
and of skins, 2,653,865.
The foregoing estimates were carefully compiled from the returns of the
seventh census, for the National Intelligencer, and may be considered correct.
Leather forms one of the heaviest
items among the staples of American
merchandise, and the demands for it
are daily increasing, in addition to its
extensive employment for the embellishment of objects of taste and ornament.
If we take it for granted that the
leather trade has advanced in amount
at the rate of 10 per cent. per annum,
for the last seven years, the figures
should now stand thus:
Amount of capital invested,.... $32,030,946 90
Value of raw material,  33,342,502 90
Value of product,.    55,865,053 20




24           INTRODUCTION.
These calculations may fall short of,
but it is believed that they do not
exceed, the truth. They may at least
serve to indicate the vast extent and
rapid increase of the leather trade in
this country. But what must it be a
quarter of a century hence?
At the present rate of increase, we
may fairly calculate that in twenty-five
years hence the tanning and currying
business will have TRIPLED, thus placing
it almost in the van of all domestic
manufactures.  A  business of such extent and importance, well deserves the
attention of the manufacturer, for whatever abridges and facilitates the process,
adds to the value of the capital invested.
The claims of this Patent are reasonable  and philosophical.  Tanning  is
wholly a chemical process, converting
hides into leather.  The perfection of
the results of this process, depends not




INTRODUCTION.         25
so much upon the energy and proper
combination of such astringent properties and chemicals as are employed to
effect it. The more rapid the action of
these agents, and the quicker their
work is done, the more perfect is the
article manufactured. This is the doctrine of the improvement set forth
in this work; and its correctness, economy, and great utility, we are ready to
submit to the scrutiny of science and
the test of the most thorough experiment.
The leather manufactured  by  this
process is of a finer texture, softer, susceptible of a higher finish, less porous,
more pliable, stronger, heavier, and more
durable than leather tanned in the ordinary way. The quality of the material
itself-which any man may examineand its use and trial for years, authorize
these high claims. They are announced. -




26           INTRODUCTION.
to the public with the most implicit
confidence in their accuracy and reliability.
We respectfully invite particular attention to the following statements:The numerous and great advantages
of this improvement, both to the manufacturer and to the consumer, are matters on which the most satisfactory
information may be obtained.
The adoption of this process by every
tanner in the United States is practicable. It consists chiefly in the application of a proper compound or comabination of certain chemicals to the usual
bark, liquors or other astringent properties,.possessing tannin, thereby causing a much more rapid advancement in
the tanning of leather than is or can be
produced by the ordinary process. It
requires no new fixtures or expensive
outlay. After the hides are tanned by




INTRODUCTION.         27
this process, the scouring, stuffing, oiling, blackening, and finishing are conducted as they ever have been.
This improvement will be found of
great general economy and utility. A
correct knowledge of it must secure its
universal adoption. The following facts
sustain this conclusion: —Many of the
most experienced, scientific, and enlightened tanners and other artisans connected with the manufacture or sale, of
leather, have certified to the superior
excellence of the leather manufactured
by this process, as possessing all the essential properties requisite for beauty
and utility.  We believe a similar opinion is entertained by all who have carefully examined the leather, and who are
competent to form a correct judgment
of the article manufactured.
To capitalists, and especially to those
who have invested large amounts of




28          INTRODUCTION.
money in the manufacture of leather,
the following estimates, showing the
difference in the expense of tanning, between the old method and this patent
process of tanning, will be interesting:ONE YEAR'S WORK BY THE OLD METHOD.
To present this matter so as it may
be readily comprehended by those doing
a small business, we will exhibit it on a
a small scale. Under the old method
of tanning with bark, two men will tan
and finish 4,000 sides of sole leather in
one year.  Their wages, at $30 per
month, will be $720; the sides, in the
raw and dry state, will weigh on an
average, 11 lbs.: per side, making 44,000
lbs.; at -32 cents per lb., they will cost
$14,080; they will consume 270 cords
of oak bark, at $7 per cord, making
$1,890; rent of tan-yard, $150, interest
on hides, $844 80; interest on bark,




INTRODUCTION.        29
$113 40; whole cost when finished, is.
$17,798 20. The 4,000 sides of leather
will weigh on an average, 16 lbs. per
side, making 64,000 lbs. At 32 cents
per lb. they would bring $20,480, affording a net gain of $2,681 80 for one
year's tanning on the old system.
ONE YEARNS WORK BY THIS NEW
PROCESS.
Under this patented improved system
of tanning, ONE MAIN will tan and finish
4,000 sides in one year. At $30 per
month, his wages will be $360; the sides.
will weigh on an average in the raw
and dry state, 11 lbs. per side, making
44,000 lbs.; at 32 cents per lb. they
will cost" $14,080; they will consume
135 -cords of bark at $7 per cord, making $945, and chemicals to the amount
of $600;;rent of tan-yard, $150; the
interest on the hides for six months, will.8*




30          INTRODUCTION.
be $422 40; the interest on the chemicals will be $18; the interest on the
bark will be $28 35; making the
whole cost of tanning 4,000 sides under
this system, only $16,243 75.  The
weight of the 4,000 sides when finished,
will be, on an average, 17 lbs. per side,
making 68,000 lbs. of leather-a gain in
weight of 4,000 lbs. over those tanned
by the old method at 32 cents per lb.;
-the whole would bring $21,760. The
net gain is $5,516 25.  Showing an
advantage over the old method of tanning in one year, even on this limited
scale, of $2,834 45; besides, the leather
tanned by this process has a brighter
color, more the appearance of oak-tanned leather, and commands a higher
price in the market.
The above is a clear and accurate calculation of the cost of tanning, both
with this process and the old method,




INTRODUCTION.        31 
and the result makes its own appeal to
the good sense of all who are anywise
interested in the profits arising from
leather. Tanners! see you not that if
so much can be saved by applying this
patent process to tanning on so diminutive a scale, that the ratio of profit
would be vastly increased by employing it on a more extended plan? You
are invited to investigate this matter.
If, on examination, you find that a substantial saving of even ten or fifteen per
cent. can be made on a year's business
by adopting this new process, you will
not fail to see where your interest leads
you; for ten per cent. over and above
your accustomed profits would, in a few
years, secure for you an independent
fortune.
It is plain that the advantages of this
mode of tanning, even to one who tans
only sole leather on a small scale, are




32.          INTRODUCTION.
very great;.and to those who find it
difficult to obtain the usual quantity of
bark, it will be invaluable. Where
bark is plenty and can be obtained at a
small cost, it also is valuable, for only
one-half the usual quantity of bark will
be found necessary. By adopting this
method then, the.tanner who consumes
1,000 cords of bark per year, will' require only 500 cords; a' saving at once
of from $1,600 to $2,000 on'bark alone,
in one year.
A brief summary of the advantages
of this patent process of tanning, may be
stated thus:
Hides or skins can be tanned at much
less expense than by the usual method.
Common size calf, sheep, goat, deer, or
other similar skins, can be tanned in
from four to twelve days, at an expense
of from fifty cents to one dollar and
fifty cents per dozen. Heavier leather,




INTRODUCTION.         33
such  as kip, upper, bridle, skirting,
harness, and sole leather, can be tanned
in from twenty to ninety days, with a
proportionate increase of expense, according to the thickness of the hide and
strength of liquors used.
The liquors used in this process are
in all cases applied to the hides or skins
only in a cold state, and the leather
manufactured by it has been found to
possess more pliability, greater strength
and durability, and a much larger increase of weight. It forms a finer texture, and gives it a handsomer bloom,
and consequently finishes much better;
thereby rendering it'more impervious to
water than leather tanned by the old
method.
The whole process can be learned by
any tanner in a very short time.
The apparatus and the different stages
of the process of tanning, are the same




34           INTRODUCTION.
or similar to the usual method; but
capable, in fitting a new establishment,
of being more compactly arranged, and
at much less expense.
It requires less room or space to
carry on the business.
Parties wishing to satisfy themselves
on any point named in this or any other
chapter of this work  on which it is
proper to  give general information,
are invited to call on the patentee
or his agent, and  examine the system in its practical operations, see the
leather manufactured, and witness experiments which they are prepared to
make at any time, for the purpose of
illustrating and corroborating the claims
of this patent, for which letters were
granted on the 14th day of April, 185T.








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CHAPTER II.
THE HIDES SUITABLE FOR TANNING.
THE hides and skins retain their
original name until they have been subjected to the treatment of the various
processes they have to undergo before
they become leather. The quality of
leather depends not only upon the
nature of the skin and the mode of
tanning it, but upon the result of
numerous minor details, which require
especial care and attention. Skins from
large cattle are best, provided they are
not thin and flabby, for such will make




,38          HIDES SUITABLE
only inferior leather. Those from cattle
slaughtered in the colder months give
five per cent. more leather than hides
taken in summer. The nature of the
food and state of the animal's health,
also, have an influence upon the quality
of the hide. For the production of
forty pounds of -leather, there are
required, on an average, twenty-five
pounds of dry hide, fifty-six pounds of
salted  hide, or  seventy  pounds  of
marked hide.
SPANISH, OR WILD BULLOCK,
BUENOS AYRES hides are taken from
the wild cattle which are run down by
hunters. After being removed from




FOR TANNING.          39
the carcass they are spread upon the
ground, with the flesh side uppermost,
and left exposed to the sun and air until
dry. To prevent shrinking, the hides
are kept stretched by means of wooden
pegs driven through the corners into
the earth.
One of these cattle, a Spanish bullock of the largest size, is before represented; and also the natives or hunters
in search of wild cattle are represented
by a wood engraving in front of this
chapter.
Brazilian hides are nearly all slaughtered in the ordinary manner. It'would
be greatly to the interest of the tanner,
and would save him much annoyance, if
all hides were imported in a green
state: that is, merely salted; for, when
dry, it is very difficult even for the
most experienced to detect many defects which would impair the quality of
4




40           HIDES SUITABLE
the leather into which they are to be
converted. The large ox hides are the
ones chiefly used for conversion into
sole leather; for cow skins, though of
denser structure, are rather too thin for
this purpose, and are, therefore, reserved
for making saddler's leather. This remark applies only to the hides of old
cows  that  have  repeatedly  calved.
OLD COW.
These are weak  and  distended, but
often tan well, and make good harness
leather, and sometimes make a very
good quality of upper leather. The




FOR TANNING.          41
hides of heifers, on the contrary, are
equal, if not superior, to  those  of
oxen.
Bull hides, on the other hand, are the
least esteemed for making good leather,
being thinner and more  flabby than
those of either oxen or cows.
AMERICAN FAT WORKING OX.
A  well-fed, moderately-worked  ox,
when slaughtered in a healthy condition, will naturally yield  a hide of
normal quality; but if sick, lean, or
deficient in hair at the time of being
killed, then the hide is not adapted for
making good leather. Should the animal die suddenly by accident, without




42           HIDES SUITABLE
being in a diseased condition, the
quality of the hide is not thereby
impaired. The hides from unhealthy
bullocks or horses present a decided
difference from those of the same animals slaughtered in a sound condition.
This difference  is not distinguishable
by any very evident characteristic,
though it seldom escapes the sagacity
of an experienced tanner. There are
no definite rules for estimating the
quality of hides.  If a skin is free from
any defects, and has sufficient strength
and thickness, with body and firmness,
then it may be presumed that it will
tan well and make good leather.
A skin presenting the opposite characteristics-that is, flabby, soft, thin, weak,
and will not bear handling-should not
be considered reliable. These signs, however, are not always unerring, for anomalous cases frequently occur. Indeed,




FOR TANNING.           43
it may sometimes happen that the hides
from a diseased carcass, differing in
appearance fiom the rest, will produce
excellent leather.
As the skins could not be kept any
length of time in a fresh state without
being injured by putrefaction; and as it
would be impossible to transfer them as
soon as slaughtered to the tan vats, they
are preserved unaltered by salting or
drying them.  The  country butchers
stretch them out in drying-lofts or in
the shade, while those in the city generally salt them. In the sale of unsalted
green hides there are certain reprehensible frauds which it is difficult to provide  against.  For instance, not only
are the horns, ears, and other less valuable parts left upon the skin, but some
butchers, in  order  still further  to
increase its weight, beds the  animal
before slaughtering in filth and mire,
4*




44           HIDES SUITABLE
and then, after skinning it, trail the
hide on the dusty ground.
Domestic, slaughtered, and heavy
hides are converted into sole, belt, and
harness leather, The very largest are
selected and enameled for carriage tops.
The smaller and lighter ones are used
for slkirting and bridle leather. In the
old method they have to undergo a
bleaching process, termed fair finish,
which is avoided in this process of
tanning. The smaller hides are sometimes converted into upper, and also for
enameling and japanning, termed patent
leather, when intended for shoes. The
hides from  the northern latitudes are
preferable to those from the south.
Hides from the extreme south are particularly objectionable for conversion
into leather. Those from California,
when free from the defects caused by
unskillful skinning, are of good quality,




FOR TANNING.          45
and  will tan  well and(  make  good
leather.
SPANISH BULLOCK.
Spanish or South American dry hides
are generally converted into sole leather
and occasionally into belt leather.
Those imported in the green and salted
state are sometimes made into upper
leather, which is of fair quality.
African hides from  the west coast
make good uppers; but they are largely
used in their raw state for covering hair
trunks.  Madagascar hides are good
when perfect, which is rarely the case,
as they are liable  to injury during
curing transit.
The hides of the neat yearlings go
into calf skins. Of these latter, there




46           HIDES SUITABLE
are "patna" kips, and common calf for
bookbinders. The patna kips are very
inferior, though frequently sold as "Calcutta kips."
CALCUTTA, OR NAGORE BULLOCK.
CALCUTTA OR NAGORE CATTLE.-These
cattle grow to a very large size, and are
used in India by the higher orders to
draw their state carriages, and are much
valued for their size, speed, and endurance, and sell at very high prices. They
will travel, with a rider on their back,
fifteen or sixteen hours a day, at the
rate of six miles an hour. Their action
is particularly fine. The Nagore cattle




FORA TANNING.        4T
bring their hind legs under them in as
straight a line as the horse. They are
very active, and can clear a five-barred
gate with the greatest ease.
Hides from Calcutta or Nagore cattle
have the distinctive property of greater
weight, and, when perfectly. tanned,
make a superior quality of leather.
Tanners have undertaken to tan them,
but failed in the experiment and pronounced the hides worthless.
I, at one time, for an experiment,
tanned six dozen of Calcutta kip skins,
in the space of fourteen days, by this
process of tanning; and the leather produced was of a very handsome quality.
They were pronounced to be a superior
article of leather by some of the best
judges and most experienced leather
manufacturers. One dozen of those.
skins were taken to the State fair in
Pennsylvania, and were awarded the




48          HIDES SUITABLE
first premium for being the best leather
on exhibition. These kips sold at an
advance price of fifteen per cent. in the
Philadelphia market.
Hides from the largest of these cattle
are best suited for making good leather,
being strong and heavy, provided they
have not undergone any injury during
the importation.
A few kips come from South America, and some from England and Ireland.
The supplies of the tanneries are mostly
domestic skins.
CALF READY FOR SLAUGHTERING.
CALF SKINS are valued in proportion
to their strength and size, and, when
properly tanned, make excellent leather




FOR TANNING.         49
for boots and shoes, and also make superior patent japanned (termed patent
calf skin) leather for fine wear. The
skins of young calves are sometimes
converted into parchment. The French
tanners, who are renowned for the
excellence of their calf leather, use the
skins taken from animals of five or six
months of age. Those from calves of
less than two months old are very inferior, and only suitable for the manufacture of parchment.
Calf skins tanned by this process
have superior advantages over those
tanned by the old method. I have frequently heard gentlemen say they wore
a pair of calf-skin boots on their feet
which were manufactured from leather
tanned by this process, and that they
have worn them every day for a period
of four months, without overshoes, and
their feet have not been damp once,




450         HIDES SUITABLE
though they have repeatedly walked in
the snow and sleet; and at present
there is not the slightest appearance of
cracking in the uppers, and the soles are
apparently as good as the first day they
put them on their feet. Calf-skins
tanned by this process possess more
strength, have a finer texture, and produce a handsomer grain; are more
pliable and durable, and more impervious to moisture, than when tanned by
the old method.
MT~
~~~~ELP~  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-~~~N~~~~~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ -




FOR TANNING.         51
HORSE HIDES are tanned for uppers,
and make good leather. They are also
tanned for thongs, for sewing belts, &c.,
and are the best material for that purpose. Horse hides make good leather
for japanning and enameling purposes;
when well tanned and properly finished,
make a superior leather for shoes and
fancy mountings for ornaments of taste.
THE GOAT.
GOAT SKINS, when tanned and curried,
are used for the uppers of ladies' shoes.
Tanned in a particular manner and
dyed with fancy colors, they constitute
5




52.      HIDES SUITABLE
Morocco or Turkey leather. The best
goat skins come from Mexico, and are
known in commerce as Tampico skins.
The sound skins from the Cape of Good
Hope are very large, and far superior to
those from Madras and the Cape de
Verds. Goat skins, when properly
tanned and manufactured into good
Morocco, make a superior leather for
ladies' and gentlemen's wear, which is
soft and pliable to the feet.
SHEEP AND LAMB,.
SHEEP SKINS, when tanned in the old
way, make a spongy, weak leather, used
principally for lining and trunk trimmings. Saddlers and bookbinders also




FOR TANNING.         53
use them largely. When tanned by
this process, they can be curried and
blackened the same as calf skins; and
they will make a very good leather for
light shoes.
I have frequently tanned sheep skins
by this process, and finished them in the
same manner as true Morocco.  The
results of the many experiments prove
to our fullest satisfaction, that sheep
skins, when tanned and finished in this
way, have many advantages over the
old method of tanning leather: they
are finer, more pliable and durable, and
more impervious to moisture; and, when
manufactured into boots and shoes for
summer wear, they give full satisfaction
to all who will give them a fair trial.




5.4          HIDES SUITABLE
THE DEER.,DEER SKINS, when tanned and finished in a proper manner,-are used for
the uppers of shoes; and, when finished
in a particular way, make a superior
leather for many purposes. By tawing,
they are converted into chamois or wash
leather, which is also made from goat
skin.
Leather is differently designated in
commerce, according  to  the  use for
which it is intended. For example:
harness leather is blackened on the
grain; russet is fair finished leather;
wax leather is blackened on the flesh




FOR TANNING.        55
side; and buff is that with the grain
divided by careful shaving, and blackened on the grain side. There are various methods of manufacturing patent
leather which I will not describe minutely.
MODE OF SALTING HrDEs.-This method consists in laying open the hide
upon the ground and sprinkling the
flesh sides with salt, more liberally at
the edges and spinal portions than on
other parts. They are then folded or
doubled lengthwise down the center;
the remaining folds are made over each
other, commencing with the shank, then
the peak of the belly upon the back,
afterward the head upon the tail part,
and the tail part' upon the head; and
lastly, by doubling the whole with a
final fold and forming a square of one
or two feet. This being done, they are
then piled three and three together, and




56      HIDES SUITABLE FOR TANNING.
left until the salt has dissolved and
penetrated their tissue, which generally
requires two or three days.  Thus prepared, they are sent to market. Skins
may be dried, even after having bheen
salted, by stretching them upon poles,
with the flesh side uppermost, and exposing them to dry air in a shady place.
Ten pounds of salt in summer, and somewhat less in winter, are requisite for
each skin of ordinary size.








"~  ~11';~i'!,~7 ~      ~ ~        r   ~    -
i~ - I -- /''i           E 1           t   iIfll' / ~"  -'" ~
XAMINIIG THE COMPSTIO N''O'F.
11111:, ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~ESKN




CHAPTER III.
COMPOSITION OF THE SKIN.
THE skin of animals consists of an exterior covering, the epidermis, or cuticle,
under which is a thin stratum  of a peculiar substance, called by anatomists,
rete m ucosum, which lies immediately
upon the cutis corium  dermis, or true
skin. The epidermis varies in thickness
on different parts of the body; it is
little prone to decomposition, insoluble
in water, in alcohol, and dilute acids.
Concentrated nitric and sulphuric acids
soften and ultimately dissolve it. The




60           COMPOSITION OF
caustic fixed alkalies dissolve it even
when considerably diluted, but not the
carbonated alkalies. It is stained by
several substances, so far indelibly
that the color remains till the cuticle
peels off.  It does not combine with
tannin.  Corns, and similar induration,
resemble the epidermis in their general
chemical characters; and horn, hoof,
calves' feet, cows' heels, sheep's trotters,
pigs' petitoes, nails, claws, tortoise shell,
hair, wool, feathers, and scales may be
regarded as modifications of it. All
these substances partake more or less of
the character of dry albumen, and
Hatchett's researches have shown that
the analogies between them are, in many
cases, only broken by the presence of
foreign substances. The general color
of the surface of the body resides in the
rete mu0coszum, the tint of which is much
dependent upon the influence of light.




THE SKIN.           61
The black  skin  of the African, the
brown of the Asiatic and American,
and the pinkish-white of the European,
derive their color from this peculiar
secretion deposited between the cutis
and cuticle. The nature of this substance has not been chemically investigated, but it has been ascertained, in
regard to the black of the negro, that it
admits of being bleached by chlorine.
The cutis or true skin is of a fibrous
texture, and, when boiled in water, is to
a great extent soluble, leaving the vascular and nervous, filaments which pervade it. The solution, when slowly
evaporated, leaves gelatine, which is the
principal and characteristic component
of the cutis. The skins of animals consist of fibrine, gelatine, and small portions of albumen and fatty matter. The
first two form, as it were, the basis or
net-work of the whole tissue, a portion




62           COMPOSITION' OF
of which, if boiled with water, yields
its gelatine, while the fibrine remains.
The epidermis of the skin does not combine with tannin.  The properties of
these substances, which play such an
important part in tanning, are as follows: Fibrine is one of the immediate
and most abundant principles in animals.
It exists in the chyle and blood, and is
the basis of muscle; it is a white, tasteless, inodorous solid, heavier than water,
soft, slightly elastic, and without action
upon litmus.  Fibrine loses four fifths of
its weight by drying, and becomes yellowish, hard, and brittle, but regains
much of its original appearance by soaking in water.  It is insoluble in cold
water, and hardens without dissolving
in hot water, but is modified in its composition and properties.  When left in
contact with cold water for several days,
decomposition, acconmpanied by a cheesey




THE SKIN.            63
appearance, ensues.  Dilute  sulphuric
acid shrivels flesh fibrine, and ultimately
combines with it, forming a jelly soluble
in water.  Dry fibrine is changed by
strong acid into a yellow, gelatinous
mass, without being dissolved. If the
acid be-very dilute, the fibrine swells
and becomes gelatinous. Concentrated
acetic acid rapidly gelatinizes fibrine
and renders it soluble in hot water.
Tannin precipitates it from both its acid
and alkaline solutions, and, when fresh
fibrine is immersed in a solution of tannin, it becomes, on drying, tough, hard,
and imputrescible.  Gluten is the principal component of glue, and prepared
in a pure state by soaking the latter
repeatedly in quantities of fresh water
until all soluble matters are removed,
and by then boiling and straining the
residue.  Gelatine is colorless, or yellowish,. transparent, tasteless, and inodorous.




64           COMPOSITION' OF
It does not lose its transparency by drying, but becomes hard, brittle, and
horny. It softens and swells, and very
slightly dissolves in cold water, but is
very soluble in hot water, from which
alcohol precipitates it. Repeated and
successive boiling and cooling of its
aqueous solution impairs its gelatinizing
property. The characteristic property
of gelatine is that of combining with
tannin and forming a grayish, glutinous,
elastic compound, which, upon drying,
becomes unalterable and imputrescible
in water, and forms the basis of leather.
The mutual affinity of these two substances is so strong that the latter will
precipitate the former from a solution
containing as little as one part in five
thousand parts of water. Gelatine does
not exist exactly as such in skins, and
therefore leather, (a compound of gela.
tinous tissue and tannin,) though very




THE SKIN.           65
analogous to, is not strictly identical
with, this elastic precipitate of tannogelatine, which is slightly soluble in
water, and becomes brittle on drying.
Mulder, who, has examined the subject, says there are two definite compounds of tannin with gelatine. For
example, when a solution of pure gelatine is mixed with one containing a great
excess of tannin, the resulting precipitate, which is white and curdy, and
becomes reddish-brown, hard, and brittle on drying, consists of one equivalent
of tannic acid and one of gelatine. This
is the neutral compound. If, however,
the tannin be not added in excess, then
the compound will contain three equivalents of gelatine and two of tannic acid.
Earthy and metallic salts, throw down
double compounds, one with acid and
another with metallic oxide, the latter
of which is wholly insoluble while the
6




66      COMPOSITION OF THE SKIN.
former is not entirely so. Tannin precipitates albuminous solutions, but the
resulting compound is not softened by
heat, like the tanno-gelatine.
Tannic acid  combines with animal
gelatine, forming an insoluble curdy
precipitate. A piece of prepared skin
introduced into a solution of tannic acid
absorbs the acid and is converted into
leather. A hide is composed of gluten.
Leather and gluten are two very different and distinct substances. Leather
is formed by a chemical action. The
affinity of tannin and gluten is very
great, and by the combination of these
two substances we produce leather.
This apparently compact mass of gluten,
called green hide, is composed of millions of minute cellular fibres, interwoven and running in every conceivable
direction, forming a strong network.








~lli~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~                                                        1;I        IiI
A VIEW OF TIlE IDE-MILL, Ol FULLING SIOCKS AND'1ie WASHIER.




CHAPTER IV.
WASHING AND SOAKING THE HIDES.
IN order to prepare the raw hides for
the action of the tanning materials, it is
necessary to subject them to several preliminary operations. These consist in
washing  and  soaking, liming  or unhairHIDE MILL OR FULLING STOCKS, AND WASHING MACHINE.These machines are employed for the purpose of softening
and washing the filthy matter from the hides, and thus,
by bringing them as nearly as possible to the fresh state
of the skins when first taken from the carcass, to facilitate
the after process of depilation and tanning. The hides,
with the hair on, are first soaked in cold water for twentyfour hours, or longer if necessary, and are then subjected
to the action of the hide mill for an hour, which time is
generally sufficient, to render them pliable. Eight or




70           WASHING AND SOAKING
ing, and bating. Washing and soaking
the hides is the first operation they must
undergo, and it is therefore a great convenience to have the tannery located
upon or near to a stream or running
spring, with an abundance of water.
The skins are taken  in  a green, dry, dr
salted   state.   The   green   hides   are
those from recently slaughtered animals.
They are placed in the pool of water
and left to soak for half a day, or longer
if necessary, for the removal of blood
and adhering dirt.   If the skins are not
very  dirty, an  hour is sufficient.   If it,
should be necessary to soak them for a
twelve skins, according to their size and thickness, are
generally put in the machine at once. A small stream of
clean water is allowed to run into the apparatus upon the
hides; and the washings, or dirty, filthy matter contained
in them, is allowed to drain off at the bottom of the machine. This method of preparing the skins for the liming
and tanning processes dispenses with the laborious manipulations to which they are commonly subjected, and
preserves their quality-not injured as they were in the
old way by the hands of the workmen. It also presents




THE HIDES.                   71
longer time, they must be handled or
moved about at frequent intervals. Dry
hides necessarily require a longer soaking, and, to expedite the operation, it is
necessary to remove them  from  the
water and subject them to the fulling
stocks or mill frequently. If there is no
hide mill in the tannery, they must be
stretched upon the wooden horse and
scraped downwards with a fleshing knife.
The fleshing should be repeated once or
twice. The washing and scraping must
be  continued  until  all  the  slimy  and
other animal matters which are prone to
putrefaction are removed. No definite
the additional advantage of not requiring a long exposure
to the action of lime, which islso apt to injure their tissue.
After the hides remain a sufficient length of time in the
lime, the hair is removed by the workmen, and then subjected to the washing machine for the purpose of washing
out the lime, which is accomplished in a very short space
of time. The skins are then taken to the wooden horse
and fleshed by the workmen. They are then placed in the
hide mill and beaten in the same manner as before for an
hour or so, washed and rinsed in a pool of clean water,
6*




72           WASHING AND SOAKING
length of time can be prescribed for the
soaking of the skins; they are to remain  in  the  water  until  they  have
become supple, and the intelligence of
the workman must determine when this
point is attained.  If this work  is done
by the aid of a fulling, or hide mill, as
it is termed, it can  be  accomplished  in
one-tenth  of both  time  and  labor.  If
the soaking should be prolonged, the
hides will acquire a tendency to putrefy.
When the skins have been all soaked
and washed as above directed, and are
sufficiently supple, they are returned to
and left in  the water for a short time,
and then placed upon a truck car and conveyed to the tan
pits, and there deposited in a weak solution of tannin
liquor. A description of this machine, for the fulling of
both small and large skins, is represented on the left end
of the engraving in front of this chapter, giving an angle
elevation. The trough in which the skins are placed is
six feet long, three wide, and two deep in the clear, with
a concave bottom. The end presents a quarter circle,
against which the hides are beaten. The mallets or hammers are two and a half feet long on the under side, and




THE HIDES.                   73
(five  or  six   hours.)    Some  attention
must always be given to the nature of
the water, the size of the hides, and temperature of the atmosphere. It must
be remembered that a too long continued soaking in the same water exposes
the skins to the danger of putrefaction;
and the rapidity of this decomposition
is proportional to the amount of filthy,
foreign matter contained in the water.
If the hides are subjected to the
fulling stocks, or hide mill, as it is
termed, and worked for a short time
with judicious care, and having a small
stream of clean soft water running in at
one and a half on the top side, one and a half feet deep,
and one and a half thick, with grooved cast-iron plates
fastened to each end of the mallets, supported by two.
upright levers ten feet long, the lower end mortised in the
center of the hammers, and fastened at the top of the
frame by a bolt of iron and wedges, so as to make the
hammers perform their work correctly and prevent them
from swaying out of place. The whole frame and size of
the machine is twelve feet long, four feet wide, and ten
feet high. The hide mill can be driven by water or steam




74           WASHING AND SOAKING
one end of the mill on the skins, while
the dirty, filthy matter contained in
them is washed out at the other end,
skins thus treated can be softened and
washed out completely in a very short
time. This operation of treating the
hides is represented  by a wood  engraving in front of this chapter. By this
method, one man can cleanse a thousand
hides in the short space of twelve hours.
The hides which have been well
salted, but not dried, can  be cleansed in
a very  short time  in  the  same way as
aforesaid. These manipulations are necessary not only for removing salt and
power. There are two pitments-the end of one being
attached to the upright levers, about three feet from the
bottom, and the other end attached to a cast-iron crank,
each arm of the crank being ten inches in length, the two
cranks forming a circle of about twenty inches in diameter, giving the mallets about a thirty-inch stroke upon
the hides, driven at the - rate of about eighty or one hundred strokes to the minute..A band or cog-wheel is
attached to one end of the shaft when driven by power.




THE HIDES.                   75
dirt, but also  for rendering  them   soft
and supple. When they are taken from
the water for the last time, the rinsing
must be vigorous and thorough.
Some manufacturers contend that the
quality of the leather is improved in
proportion to the duration of the time
of soaking the skin. It is still undeniable that, when it exceeds a certain time,
the skin acquires a tendency to decomposition, and the quality of the leather is
thus  impaired.   It  is  a  mooted  point
whether the nature of the water used
for soaking has any influence upon the
quality   of   the   leather.           From     a
WASHING MACHINE.-This machine is represented on the
right end of the engraving. Its form and size are in the
shape of a drum, five feet in diameter and six feet long,
closed up at each end, with a trap-door in the front end
for the purpose of passing the skins in and out. A pipe
is so arranged in the center of the washer as to allow a
small stream of clean water to pass in upon the hides, and
small holes are made around the edge of the front end to
let the dirty water pass out, with plugs to stop the holes




76            WASHING AND SOAKING
practical knowledge on this point, we
will not take the affirmative side  of the
question.   It  is  undeniable  that  the
leather known as calf skin, upper, &c.,
and which, by its very nature and destined  use, should  be  soft and  supple,
requires a soft, fresh, running water,
and, consequently, that it will be difficult to make them so with hard water.
Rain water is the purest, but all drinkable waters are applicable for tanning
purposes. Tanneries that cannot obtain
soft water  can  have  the  softness  imparted to it by infiltrating it through
spent tan. For this purpose there is a
and make the washer perfectly water-tight. The inside
surface of the machine is set full of small wooden pins,
one inch thick, about four inches long, and about four
inches apart, for the purpose of catching the skins, raising
them up, and, in falling, changes them in various positions.
A six-inch wooden shaft placed through the center of the
washer, set upon a frame erected for that purpose, with a
cog-wheel and other gearing attached to it, so as to run
the machine at the rate of twenty revolutions to the min



THE HIDES.                   77
series of three vats charged similarly
with spent tan, and, as the water which
is poured into the first vat is drawn
through a cock at the bottom, it is transferred to the second, and, ultimately, to
the third vat. In this manner all kinds
of water may be rendered available for
tanning, as, thus rectified, it contains a
little tannin derived from the spent tan,
which renders it particularly adapted
for the early part of the tanning operation. Experience certainly proves the
superiority of some waters over others
for tanning purposes, but on what particular quality of the water this superiute. If the washer is allowed to run any faster it will
not do the work so well. When skins are tanned sufficiently to be skived, they are taken from the tan liquor
and subjected to the machine for a short time, which
washes them out completely. After skiving, they are
again placed in the washer for a short time, which much
facilitates and hastens the process of tanning.
Either of these machines will perform work much more
rapidly and satisfactorily than any other machine now in




78      WASHING AND SOAKING THE HIDES.
ority depends I have not yet been able
to  determine.   The  safest course  is to
prefer those waters which contain the
least soluble matter, particularly earthy
matters, for they certainly reduce the
tanning power of the ooze by combining
with some of its constituents.
existence, or than it was formerly done by the tedious and
laborious processes practised in early days. The expense
of building these machines is about thirty dollars each.
In the foreground of the engraving is the representation
of a railroad and truck car loaded with hides. This road
and car is for the purpose of conveying stock through to
the different parts and places in the tannery. This, however, will be more fully explained hereafter.








:       11;~~~~~~~~~~~11RW
)/~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~ m i;,':W;ii~
i'~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~',, ~'1
Ir~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~, I iI
THlE 7BEAMI-IIOUSE —ILLUSTRATING TIHE — iANNEI'. OF IHANDLING HIDES IN TIIE'.IM[E VATrS, BY PAD'D'.~.-VIlEIERS' AI. SO,
A VIEW, OF THlE SOAK AND WVASHI ROOM IN THlE BAkCK G}ROUND,




CHAPTER V.
COMPOSITION FOR UNHIAIRING.
THE  second  process  to  which  hides
are to be subjected is termed unhairing,
and is that by which the pores are distended, the fibres swollen, and the hair
loosened. These results are effected by
means of alkaline or acid solutions, and
by  fermentation.   Milk  of lime  is the
BEAM HousE.-This room comes next to the apartment
for washing and soaking the hides. The beam house is the
grand starting point for the manufacture of good leather.
It depends entirely upon this operation for facilitating and
hastening the process of tanning. To secure this desirable
result they must be perfectly cleaned, scraped, and rinsed
7




82       COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.
alkaline liquor generally employed.
Lime water has been proposed as a substitute, but it is less permanent in its
action and requires frequent renewal in
order to insure the perfect cleansing of
the hides. After the hides have been
sufficiently soaked, or, in other words,
sufficiently prepared to receive limes or
to be unhaired, I then introduce Composition No. 1 for the purpose of removing hair or wool, or for the purpose of
liming, as it is called, instead of using
lime as in the old way.
Lime has been used alone for the purpose  of  removing  hair, wool, grease,
mucus, and  other impurities  from   the
skins.   Lime   alone   requires  several
before being allowed to enter the handling house for the
action of the tanning liquor. My tannery is two hundred
and forty feet in length and forty feet in width, with a
railroad running through the center from one end to the
other. The room or apartment occupied for soaking,
softening, and washing the hides comes first, and the next




COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.         83
days, and, in  cold  weather, weeks  to
effect these several objects; so that the
muscular fibre of  the hides is always
more or less injured. When the compo-.
sition is combined in proper proportions
it modifies the action of the alkalies and
protects the skins, so that the process of
unhairing and liming are both rendered
more expeditious, the hides are made
much softer than by the old method  of
liming, their texture is uninjured, and,
consequently, the leather is much
stronger. The skins may be prepared
for the bating and tanning processes
after the  usual method; but I prefer
and use the following ingredients, which
I shall denominateis the unhairing apartment. This latter operation and the
apartment are represented by a wood engraving in front
of this chapter. The center of the engraving represents
a railroad, on which a truck car is coming in from the
wash and soak room loaded with hides ready to receive
the action of the lime. On the right end of the engraving




84        COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.
COMPOSITION No. 1.
2d,
3d,
This  composition  (No.  1)  must be
mixed in about the consistency of whitewash, with a sufficient quantity of water
in  the vat to  immerse  the  number of
hides proposed to be unhaired. The
lime vats are placed along one side of
the beam-house, each vat containing a
paddle-wheel operating on the upper
portion of the unhairing liquor, while
the hides being handled are entirely
loose and free in the vat, and move in
is represented five lime vats, with paddle-wheels for the
purpose of handling the hides and agitating the unhairing
liquor. The first wheel is represented as being in full
motion, stirring up the liquor in place of the old tedious
method of handling by hand. These lime pits are eight
feet long, five feet wide, and six feet deep, with a concave




COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.        85
an  opposite  direction  to  that of  the
wheel. A gentle and yet effectual m0otion is given to the skins and liquor by
means of the wheel.  When the composition is prepared in the vat, the hides
are thrown in and kept agitated  at frequent intervals by running the wheels a
few minutes at a time, say once every
half hour, or once every two or three
hours, as the case may  require.  This
operation  of unhairing  the hides, and
also the vats containing the wheels, are
represented by a wood engraving in
front of this chapter.
Although the management of process
No. 1 is the same as the usual method,
the skins must be handled or agitated,
bottom, for the purpose of making an easy revolution of
the hides and liquor by the action of the wheels. These
wheels are made in the form of the paddle-wheel used by
steamboats, and are four and a half feet long, and five feet
in diameter, or fifteen feet in circumference, each being
geared independent of the other, with three cog-wheels,;
7*




86        COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.
and closely attended to, as has been before  observed.   This  composition  for
unhairing may be conducted at a temperature of summer heat, and the object
may be accomplished much sooner than
by any other process. One bushel of
No. 1 mixture  is about equivalent to
one and a half bushels of good freshslacked lime.
The second ingredient may be substituted by eight pounds of. —--------------- -----------
-------------------------- which  will answer the
same purpose.   No. I process must be
conducted with the greatest care and
judgment, and should be kept at a mild
temperature, and in a very short time
the hides will be ready to unhair withtwo large wheels, and one small one. The small wheel is
attached to an iron shaft running over the top of the paddle-wheels, with an iron lever attached to the small wheel
for the purpose of sliding a clutch, by which the workman
can run any of the wheels at the same time. On the left
end of the engraving are four workmen represented at




COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.         87
out the least injury to the skins. After
the hair is completely removed, the
hides are put in the mill and milled  a
short time for the purpose of washing
or cleaning them, which gives the skins
thorough rinsing, and leaves them in a
fine condition for the bate or the tanning
process.  I will add, according  to  my
experience  in  unhairing  and  tanning,
there  are  certain   drawbacks  in  the
liming process, when limed in the old
way, which are worthy of enumeration.
Firstly, The contact of caustic lime
alters, more or less, the texture of the
hide, and permits it to penetrate the
pores, and remain in them in the state of
caustic lime or lime soap.
work, depriving the hides of their hair, standing upon a
platform extending from the wall half over the puul, the
whole platform being about ten feet wide, with the back
end two feet higher than the front side, giving sufficient
fall for the dirty water discharged from the skins to run
off. The workman stands with his back to the pool, and




88        COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.
Secondly, The repeated rinsings in
water and workings only partially remove the lime, which is a serious imped-i
iment to perfect tanning.
Thirdly, It hinders the ready penetration of the tanning liquor, and the
perfect combination of tannin with the
skin, and so obstinately resists removal
during all the manipulation that a portion of it is found even in the best of
leather. Notwithstanding that my experience is so opposed to the use of lime,
the careful and elaborate experiments of
Dr. Davy, chemist, show that its action
upon animal textures generally is rather
antiseptic than destructive. The disadvantages of the use of lime have led to
operates facing the light. In this position he can draw a
hide from the pool and place it on the wooden horse,
ready to be operated on, without moving from his truck,
thus avoiding tile old method of walking around the horse
and drawing the hides up, which gives the workman double
labor. After this manipulation is completed, the skins are




COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING. ~     89
the substitution of less objectionable
agents, which are set forth in this chapter. The advantages derived to hides
by these substitutions for unhairing are
superior to any other process, according
to my judgment, and is acknowledged.
to be a fixed fact by all those who have
used  it.  The  skins immersed  in  this
liquor swell out considerably, and  are
ready to be scraped in a very short time.
Moreover, the ialkali forming soluble
soap, with the fatty portions, facilitates
the cleansing and produces a smoother
grained side than is done in the common
way. Hides thus prepared will imbibe
the tanning liquor more rapidly, and the
entire processes can be accomplished in
one-third of the usual time.  After this.
thrown upon the truck and taken to the fulling stocks and
washer, and exposed to the action of those two machines
for a short time. When thoroughly cleansed, they are
again placed upon the truck and carried to the handlinghouse for the action of the tanning ooze.




90      COMPOSITION FOR UNHAIRING.mode of preparing the' skins, they may
be subjected to the tanning without additional process of bating, and there will
be a firm, solid article produced. If the
tanner wishes to make a soft, mild, and
pliable leather, it must be subjected to
the bate for a few hours, which will be
set forth in the succeeding chapter.




CHAPTER VI.
BATING.
REDUCING THE HIDE TO ITS ORIGINAL THICKNESS.
THESE leading manipulations are modified to suit certain kinds of skins; and
some undergo an additional treatment,'ermed' bating, to  remove lime  and
otherwise promote the thorough union
of the  tan  material and  gelatinous
structure. The bate consists of a liquor
made from the dung of domestic fowls;
and immersions in this mixture remove
the lim, and reduce the skins to their
originaIickness.  It acts by means of
muriate?'f ammonia, which it contains.




9 2            BATING.
This salt is decomposed by the unhairing
process, which drives off its base, the
ammonia, and, taking up with the muriatic acid, then becomes soluble muriate
of lime, and passes off with the rinse
water. When limed in the old way
with lime alone, it carries with it at the
same time a portion of the gelatine, rendered soluble by putrefaction of the
organic matter of the bate, which undoubtedly occurs. If the hides are
unhaired by the aid of composition
No. 1, there will be no loss of gelatine in
the application of the process; for, by
bating, it will be entirely preserved
from all putrefaction. The bating process can be conducted at the temperature
of summer heat. This, however, must
be attended to with the greatest care
and judgment on the part of the workman, and will render the hides highly
susceptible of being quickly tanned.








.1 S~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
SW 11~~~~~~~~~~1
W.




CHAPTER VII.
PROPERTIES OF THE INGREDIENTS EMPLOYED IN THE COMPOSITION
FOR TANNING.
CHEMISTRY is that branch of natural
knowledge which teaches us the properties of the elementary substances, and
of their mutual combinations. It inquires into the laws which affect and
into the powers which preside over their
union; it examines the proportions in
which they combine and the modes of
separating them when combined, and
endeavors to apply such knowledge to
the explication of natural phenomena
8




96      INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.
and to useful purposes in the different
arts of life.
It is my intention, in this introductory
chapter, to make a brief allusion to the
style of these ingredients, used in this
process for the manufacture of leather,
when they are duly prepared in the
proper proportions. The union of these
ingredients with tannin facilitates the
process of tanning, and produces the
desired effect upon the article manufactured.  There are many vegetable
substances containing a principle which
confers upon them an astringent taste,
and which has the property of forming
a superior tanning liquor.
Chemistry.is that science which treats
of those events or changes in natural
bodies which are not accompanied by
sensible motions.  Most of the  substances belonging to our globe are constantly undergoing alterations in sensible




INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.   97
qualities, and one variety of matter
becomes, as it were, transmuted into
another.~ Such changes, whether natural or artificial, whether slowly or
rapidly performed, are called chemical.
Thus, the gradual and almost imperceptible decay of the leaves and branches of
a fallen tree exposed to the atmosphere,
and the rapid combustion of wood in
our fires, are both chemical operations.
The object of chemical philosophy is to
ascertain the causes of all phenomena of
this kind, and to discover the laws by
which they are governed. As induction from experiment is exclusively the
basis of chemical science, little progress
could be made in it till the futility of
the ancient philosophical systems had
been shown and their influence annihilated, till the true end of science was
rightly defined and the road to it rendered straight and passable, till the




98      INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.
necessity of well-digested experiment
had been established, which first procures the light, then shows the way by
its means. The conversion of hides into
leather is wholly a chemical process.
Hides and skins may be converted into
leather more perfectly by the combination of those different chemicals, ingredients, and tanning liquors manufactured
from oak barks. By this combination a
greater amount of tannin is concentrated
in a smaller quantity of materials, and
much less labor is required than in the
old method. These ingredients, when
combined in proper proportions, make a
superior tanning agent for the manufacture of all kinds of leather. This composition consists of five different, distinct
substances. In the succeeding chapter
will be given a correct description of and
the proper proportions for manufacturing
and applying this composition to the




INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.     99
hides. In the first place, as far as my
knowledge will permit, I will endeavor
to give the properties of the ingredients
adapted to Composition No. 2, chapter
viii., and their effects upon the hides and
skins, and the purposes used for making
the different kinds of leather. The tanner will observe that the ingredients are
not all applied at the same time; but let
him use them as directed, and he will not
fail to produce the desired article of
leather. Those ingredients are employed
at different intervals and at different
stages of the process of tanning:
PFirstly, I use the first ingredient for
the tanning properties it possesses. The
tannin can be obtained from different
sources. Its properties, however, differ
materially in some of their characteristics. The tannin possessed by this
article has superior tanning properties:
one pound of it is equivalent to ten




100     INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.
pounds of either oak or hemlock bark,
besides containing pure tannin, and a
small quantity of gallic acid and modified
tannin, in the state which is generally
designated by the name -Extractive;
and, lastly, a -combination of, tannin
which is soluble in cold water, and more
particularly in hot water, and produces
a stronger liquor with the combination
of chemicals, which unites dissimilar
bodies into a uniform compound and
makes a tanning liquor that cannot be
surpassed. This article can be procured
in abundance at the small price of from
two to five dollars per one hundred
pounds.
Secondly, I used the second article for




INGREIIENTS FOR TANNING.   101
its brightening qualities. I do not, therefore, use it for any tanning properties,
for it contains no tannin.  It gives the
leather that very, bright hue which we
term bloom, which makes a very handsome, durable, and saleable color. This
ingredient is prepared on a large scale
for calico printers. It has a cooling,
saline, and bitter taste. When recently
prepared it is beautifully transparent,
but by exposure to the air it effloresces
and the crystals become covered with an
opaque white powder. By long exposure it undergoes complete efflorescence, and falls to powder with the loss
of more than one-half its weight. It is
soluble in three times its weight of cold
water, and in its own weight of boiling
water, but insoluble in,'alcohol; subjected to heat, it dissolves in its water of
crystallization, then dries, and afterward,
by the application of a red heat, melts,




102     INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.
with the loss of fifty-five and a half per
cent. of its weight.  It has no injurious
or offensive properties, for it was formerly used as a medicine. At the present time, immense quantities of this
article are manufactured in all parts of
the world, and can be procured at the
small cost of one cent per pound.
Thirdly, I use the third article for
the purpose herein set forth: it induces
a more rapid action of the tannin upon
the skin.  This ingredient, when used in
proper proportions, unites more forcibly,
and adds materially to the quality of the
leather, and makes it more pliant and
durable, which is the great object in
tanning.
This article is largely manufactured in
all parts of the world, and is used for
various purposes. Its cost is about six
cents per pound, and it dissolves readily
in boiling water.




INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.   1O03
JUST ARRIVED, A CARGO OF TANNING MATERIALS.
Fourthly, The fourth  ingredient is
used for softening the hides, and expediting the process of unhairing, and
rendering them  more supple  for the
tanning process, and also for keeping the
skins in a fine condition while the tanning
is going on, by keeping the pores open
for the tannin to penetrate through the
network of the hide, thus forming leather
more perfectly and expeditiously. If
the skins are hard and harsh, the harshness can be removed by the use of this
article. It may be used freely without
injuring the hides, as I have found it of




104     INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.
essential use in raising the skins in the
tanning  process, and preparing them
without injury  for speedy  and  safe
tanning. This article is manufactured
on a very large scale both in Europe
and America, and is used for various
purposes.  It has no injurious or offensive properties, and can be procured in
abundance  at one  and  three-quarter
cents per pound, and dissolves readily in
boiling water.
Fifthdly, The fifth ingredient possesses a small portion of tannin, and
also possesses a sweetish, astringent
taste.  Care must be taken and not use
too muich at a time.  When used too
freely it gives the leather an olive hue,
which is not a very desirable  color.
Its expanding properties are very great,
and act freely upon the pores of the
skin; therefore the proper proportions
must be strictly observed, or the effects




INGREDIENTS FOR TANNING.  105
will undoubtedly be injurious to the
leather. It dissolves in fourteen times
its weight in cold water, and in its
own weight of boiling water. It is
manufactured in almost all parts of the
world, and is used for various purposes,
and can be obtained at two and a half
cents per pound.
There are many other:ingredients of
similar properties that will answer very
nearly the same purpose; but, upon
experimenting with various kinds of
chemicals, I could not find any that
would answer for the tanning of leather
but those I have adopted, and they
answer the purpose in every respect.
The reader will observe that the names
of the ingredients are not given in this
chapter, but they will be designated by
being numbered in this and also in the
succeeding chapters.












I~~~~~~ ~ ~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ii    lII    ii;i
I~~ ~~~~~~ /i                                   \
\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~                                     /
RI'REI'AING TIIE DIFFIERENT INGRE: ENT IS IN A COMPOSITION FOR TANNING LEATIIER.




CHAPTER VIII.
COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.
THIS process is applicable to the tanning of all kinds of hides, and to making
the different kinds of leather.
The proper proportions of the ingredients must be strictly observed in all
cases. In preparing the following materials, the operator should use scales,
and weigh them out correctly, as represented by the wood engraving in front
of this chapter. Caution should always
be observed to have the proper preparations. I will here give the correct
9




110     COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.
proportions of the materials for the tanning of one hundred common-sized calfskins, or any other like skins.  The
example of tanning the above skins will
be given hereafter.  In mixing these
articles, the operator must be careful
that he has the correct proportions, as it
will depend entirely upon the management and skill of the workman in preparing these ingredients to produce a
superior quality of leather, which will,
undoubtedly, be the case when the process is correctly managed.
COMPOSITION No. 2.
1st,    lbs.
2d,     lbs.
3d,        lbs.
4th,     lbs.
5th,     lbs.




COMPOSITIOYN FOR TANNING.  111
The ingredients of number one must
be dissolved, separately, in hot water;
or, hot bark-liquor is preferable. After
they are dissolved, put them into a vat
or tub, or whatever it may be. If the
liquor is not sufficient to cover the
amount of skins proposed to be tanned,
bark liquor may be used to fill up the
vat or tub, to make the liquor cover the
hides. There should, in all cases, be sufficient in, but not so as to lie crowded or
in a compact state. The skins must have
a sufficient quantity of liquor on them, so
as to lie loose, and let the tannin have a
chance to search through the network and
fibres of the skins, which is one of the
most important parts of tanning. When
they are once plumped, we ought, at
least, to keep them in that state, and
allow them to come in contact with the
tannin gradually, as they are frequently
handled or agitated in the liquor. The




112     COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.
spent liquor or water that remains in the
pores of the hides, which has caused
them to plump, by filling up every pore
and cavity among the fibres of the
skins, will retain its place, and will keep
them in fine condition, just as they
should be, until it is forced to give way
to the tannin, which takes the. place of
the spent liquor, and gradually unites
with the gelatin and forms leather.
Hides should be handled in cold, weak
liquor, particularly the first application
of the skin to the liquor, for a day or
two. The effects of the first application
of liquor that is too strong, and too
warm, to green hides is very injurious.
It contracts the surface fibres of the
skin, tanning at once the, external layers
so dead as to shut up the pores and prevent the tannin from  penetrating the
interior portions of the hide. This renders the leather harsh and brittle. The




COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.             113
liquor should  also  be  kept  as  cool as
possible, with certain limits, but ought
never to exceed a temperature of eighty
degrees; in fact, a much lower temperature is the maximum point, if the liquor
is very strong; too  high  a  heat with  a
liquor too strongly charged with the
tanning principle, being invariably injurious to the life and color of the
leather. The first application of the
liquor  should  not exceed, in  strength,
HYDROMETER.-A Hydrometer is a convenient apparatus for ascertaining readily the
10   density.or strength of liquors. That refer20   red to above has been styled by its maker
(W. Pike, of the city of New York), a Bark30   ometer, because it is specially adapted to
testing the strength of bark liquors.  Its form
and the manner of using it are represented
by a small wood-engraving on this page; and
i'1 A it is made wholly. of glass; a, d, being the
stem, inclosing a graduated paper scale; B,
a spherical bubble; and C, a small bubble
at its base, containing quicksilver or shot,
I  which serves as ballast to retain the instruI ment in a vertical position in the liquid.
The scale on the stem is equally divided into
9*




114        COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.
more than one or two per cent. by W.
Pike's Barkometer, which is specially
adapted to testing the strength of bark
liquors.  Strong  liquor must invariably
be avoided in the first application. On
the other hand, a too weak solution, in
the latter stage  of  tanning, must be
avoided. - In the latter stage, the liquor
may be used as strong as it can be made,
without injury to the leather. I have
used it as high  as fifty per cent.  The
weight, in leather, is made by keeping it
in good strong liquor, and giving it
close  attention.   In  order to  produce
heavy weights, the hides should not be
reduced too low in the beam-house, and
should be tanned quickly, with good
five or ten wide spaces, and each of these again subdivided
into ten narrow spaces; the zero point of the scale is
made by plunging the instrument into distilled water, at
58 degrees F., and adding mercury to the bubble until it
sinks to nearly the top of the stem a. A solution of ten
parts of bark in ninety parts of distilled water having




COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.          115
strong liquors, particularly in the latter
stage of the operation; green hides in
particular.   Nothing  can  be more  injurious than  to  suffer them  to  remain
too long in weak liquors. It will, firom
this, be seen that in the question of the
proper strength of liquors alone, there is
room for the exercise of the greatest
judgment and the most extensive experience. In very many cases, nothing can
be depended upon but the judgment of
the practical tanner. In softening hides
and preparing them for the process of
tanning, a great deal also depends upon
the judgment of the person superintending this operation; inasmuch as the
diversities in the qualities and characbeen made, the hydrometer is then plunged in the liquor,
and the point to which it sinks therein, say b, is cai efully
and accurately marked upon the scale, and rated as 10
compared with the zero point. Each of the grand divisions, consequently, represents ten per cent. of bark, and
each of the smaller ones, or subdivisions, corlresponds with




116        COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.
teristics of the hides render it impossible to subject them to anything more
than  a general mode of treatment.  As
a general rule, the milder the process of
preparing the hides for the liquor the
better.   Unnecessarily* severe  or  prolonged treatment is inevitably attended
with a loss of gelatin, and, consequently,
with  a loss of weight and  strength  in
the leather. Skins should be handled
in  weak  liquor at first;  then  increase
the strength of the tanning liquor, and
keep up the strength of it, and handle
regularly, and of course the hides require less and less handling, as the process of tanning progresses —for the more
they become tanned, the slower will
one per cent. of bark. It is very easy, therefore, after
having determined the length of the stem from zero, which
sinks in a normal solution of bark, to apportion the rest of
it with the aid of a pair of dividers; so that every interval thus apportioned, shall be equal to that fixed by experiment. When, therefore, this instrument sinks into a




COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.         117
they receive the liquor; the hides that
are intended for sole leather, when handled a short time, in weak liquor, should
be laid down alternately in the vat, with
layers of bark between  each and every
hide.  (For example, see Chapter XI.)
When sole leather has been laid away
for ten or fifteen days, the liquor should
be let off, and a good strong liquor prepared and poured into the vat, without
moving the hides, and let it remain until
exhausted. The liquor should be renewed
in like manner until the stock  is completely tanned.  The first liquor can be
applied to a succeeding pack, and so on
until the strength of the liquor is entirely exhausted.
bark liquor'to twenty degrees, thirty, or any other degree, the number indicates the percentage of tanning
force. It is necessary to observe that this instrument is
applicable only to freshly-made liquors; for otherwise,
confusion and want of confidence might ensue upon finding that it sinks, sometimes, to a corresponding degree in




118      COMPOSITION FOR TANNING.
The light stock, such as calf, sheep,
and other like skins, need not be laid
away. (For example, see Chap. IX.)
After the tannery becomes thoroughly
impregnated with chemicals, it can be
kept up with half the expense and
trouble, and the tanner will see a great
change in his leather, both in time and
quality. No tanner should do without
this process, if he looks to his own interest, which every tanner should do. If
the stock is to be tanned out in a given
time, it must be accomplished by management, care, attention, and strength of
the liquor. It is my opinion that no
practical tanner can fail in his appointed
time for the completion of the work, if
he closely follows the direction.
spent liquor. This is owing to the fact that the alterations
which tanning liquors undergo during use and exposure,
may not diminish their density, though they impair and
destroy their tanning power.








;:: ~~~~~~il~~~~!~~~-....  ----
ji~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~"~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i
t~'i!,'  i ~,s'Ii
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j j'~i   i ill   ~i~~~~~~~~~~~ilji':,~~~~~~~ a  iii~~~~~ii~~ —~~~ —2':~-1
I'T                 Ji
ii;  I:I.I!i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~lain




CHAPTER IX.
EXAMPLE OF TANNING ONE HUNDRED
COMMON-SIZED CALF SKINS.
THE tanning of calf-skins is conducted
about the same way as small cow-hides,
or any other kind of hides. In the first
place, the skins are subjected to a
preparation liquor for the purpose of
giving them a clear, bright color, and a
good grain, and also for opening their
pores and preparing them for the tannin.
By this preparation mixture the skins
can be colored and grained beautifully
in the space of three hours. This mixture, however, need not be used in




122             EXAMPLE OF
tanning regularly; only when you wish
to color and grain the stock in a short
time. It is more adapted to experimenting than regular tanning, although it is
useful in tanning; but many tanners
would think it rather troublesome  to
prepare.  I procured one hundred common-sized calf-skins from the bate, unhaired  and free of lime, and prepared
a coloring and graining liquor of the
following ingredients, which I shall
denominate
PREPARATION LIQUOR FOR COLORING AND
GRAINING THE SKINS.
ist,         lbs................................
2d,         lbs.......................
3d,         l.................bs.
4th,        lbs........................
5th,        ls.  b...........................
I dissolve the first, second, and third




TANNING CALF-SKINS.    123
ingredients in hot water; then put the
fifth ingredient in an earthen vessel-a
crock-and put a little hot water in it;
and then put the fourth ingredient in
the latter vessel, and let them remain
-together until all were dissolved. After
they were dissolved, which did not take
more than ten minutes, I poured all the
dissolved ingredients together into a
vat, and put in a sufficient quantity of
weak bark liquor to cover the amount
of skins proposed to be tanned, then
threw the skins into the preparation
mixture. I handled them frequently for
six hours. The same work has been
accomplished in my tannery in the short
period of three hours. At the expiration of the sixth hour the skins were
removed out of the preparation mixture,
completely colored and very handsomely
grained. I then made a tanning liquor
which I shall denominate10




124            EXAMPLE OF
(The ingredients in the following compositions will be recognized by numbers
corresponding with those in Composition
No. 2, Chapter VIII.)COMPOSITION NO. 1.
—...............-..-............ -lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
------------------ lb. of  the  5th   ingredient.
I dissolved these ingredients in hot
water.   After  they  were  dissolved,
(which took about ten minutes,) I
poured them  into a vat, and run in a
small quantity of bark liquor, enough
to make it cover the skins, and then
threw the skins in, and let them remain
in  this Composition  num6er  one  for
twenty-four hours. The wheel was run
about five minutes every half hour
during the first day. At the expiration
of the twenty-four hours, the skins were




TANNING CALF-SKINS.      125
removed from Composition -number one,
and a new liquor prepared of the following ingredients, which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 2.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
-.......................... lbs. of the 2d ingredient.. —------------ ----   lbs. of  the   3d   ingredient.
l................................ b. of the 5th ingredient.
These ingredients were dissolved the
same as number one; and I added this
Composition ntumber two to number one,
and strengthened it up. The liquor was
well plunged up; then the skins were
put in this composition for twenty-four
hours; the wheel was run once every
hour during the second day, about five
minutes at a  time.  They  may  be
handled by hand in the same way that
many tanners handle their stock, which
will answer a very good purpose for




126             EXAMPLE OF
this process; but I prefer and use the
wheel in all my handlings. In many tan
neries they handle all their stock by
hand, which is undoubtedly tedious,.
laborious, and very expensive; and,
according to my judgment and experience, the leather is not as good and
pliable as when handled by the wheels.
The representation of tanning the aforesaid one hundred skins is shown by the
wood engraving in front of this chapter.
After the expiration of the second
twenty-four hours, the skins were removed, and a new liquor made, which I
shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 3............................l... lbs. of the 1st ingredient.....-........l...........   lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
-..-._.-.-....................   -lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
lb. of the 4th ingredient........................ lb. of the 5th ingredient-.




TANNING CALF-SKINS.        127
These ingredients I dissolved in hot
bark liquor, then threw them all into
the vat, as usual, and put in a sufficient
quantity of middling good bark liquor
to make it cover the skins.  The liquor
was well plunged up; the skins were
thrown in and left remaining in Composition number three for forty-eight hours.
The wheel' was run about five minutes
every two hours during the two days.
At the expiration of that time I made a
new  liquor, and  added  it to number
three, which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 4.................................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient...................................    lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
---— l.....................b..... lbs. of the 3d ingredient......-........................ lb. of the 5th ingredient.
I dissolved these ingredients in the
same way as numn6er three.  The skins
10*




128           EXAMPLE OF
were removed out of numnber three, and
Composition number four added to numnber three, and plunged well up together;
then the skins were put in, and kept in
this liquor for two days.  They were
handled about three or four times each
day during that time. At the end of
the second day I had the skins taken out
and green-shaved, which prepared them
for the reception of the tan more freely
than before; after which I prepared a
new liquor of the following ingredients,
which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 5.................................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient.. -. lbs. of the 2d ingredient....-............................... lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
— l............................... lb. of the 5th ingredient.
These ingredients I dissolved as usual,
and put them  in the vat, and added a
sufficient quantity of good strong bark




TANNING CALF-SKINS.       12 r
liquor, and plunged it well together;
then put the skins in and let them
remain in this liquor two days.  They
were handled about three or four times
each day during that period.  At the
expiration of the two days, I had the
skins removed and the liquor cast away.
I then prepared a new liquor, which I
shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 6.
-.................................. lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
-l................................  lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
-....... —..-.-................... lb. of the 5th ingredient.
I dissolved these ingredients as usual;
then threw them all together into the
vat, and run in a sufficient quantity of
good strong bark liquor, plunged it up
well, and then put the skins in, and let
them  remain in this composition three




130   EXAMPLE OF TANNING CALF-SKINS.
days. They were handled about twice
each day during that period. At the
expiration of the three days, the skins
were taken out perfectly tanned. The
oiling, stuffing, blackening, and finishing
is conducted in the same manner as
when tanned in the old way. The skins
tanned by this process possess different
advantages over those tanned by the
old method. They are finer, more pliable and durable, and more impervious
to moisture, and, when handsomely finished, are equal to French calf-leather.








______   ~~ ~~.__i
_____~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ______  ___                        I,~l  r
___          ___                 SI-__I-~~ ~




CHAPTER X.
EXAMPLE OF TANNING OX-HIDES FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF PATENT
LEATHER.
THE tanning of hides for the manufacture  of patent leat/her is conducted in
the same way as the tanning of other
HANDLING-HOUSE. —The handling-house is the next place
of operating upon the hides after they have been sufficiently prepared in the beam-house; for the manufacture
of good leather a great deal depends upon the manipulation of preparing the hides in the beam-house. They
should be well prepared before they are permitted to enter
the handling-room for the action of the tanning principles.
After the hides are deprived of their hair, and properly
softened and rinsed in the beam-house, they are piled upon
a truck car, and conveyed to the handling-house, and subjected to a weak solution of tanning liquor in vats, that
are furnished with paddle-wheels for handling the hides




134                 EXAMPLE OF
kinds of leather, with  a little exception
in the management of the tanning. This
leather, known in commerce as patent
leather, is very  largely  used  for dress
boots and shoes, and for fancy mountings. There are various methods of
manufacturing it. I will here give an
example of tanning thirty large ox-hides
for japanning and enameling purposes.
After they are unhaired and free of
lime, or, in other words, well prepared
for the tanner, we will subject the hides
to the following composition, which I
and agitating the tanning liquors. The handling-house,
as it is in Clinton tannery, is represented by a wood
engraving in front of this chapter. A full view of this
room is given by the illustration. The handling department occupies 26 feet in length by 40 in width; the
right end of the engraving represents 5 vats, which are 8
feet long, 4 feet wide, and 6 feet deep-equivalent to
960 cubic feet of tanning room. Each of the vats is
furnished with a revolving paddle-wheel; the wheels are
3 feet and 10 inches in length, and 5- feet in diameter, or
17 feet in circumference; each wheel contains 11 paddles, 1 inch thick and 15 inches wide, and placed over the




TANNING OX-HIDES.               135
shall   denominate   (see   corresponding
number, in Composition number two,
Chapter VIII.)COMPOSITION  No. 1.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
lbs. of the 2d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d  ingredient.
lb. of the 4th  ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients in hot
water or hot bark liquor, whichever is
the most convenient. After they are
center of the vat, so that the wheel dips 13 inches in the
liquor; and the gearing is arranged to run the wheel at
the rate of 18 revolutions to the minute. The center
wheel is represented as in full motion: if they are permitted
to run any faster they will not perform the work so well.
The left end of the engraving represents 3 vats, -which are
8 feet long, 7 feet wide, and 6 feet in depth-equivalent to
1008 cubic feet of tanning room; each vat is furnished
with a handling-wheel, 6 feet 10 inches in length and 56
feet in diameter, and placed on the vat the same as stated
before.' The first wheel is represented as being in motion.
The illustration shows that each wheel is geared inde



136                EXAMPLE OF
dissolved, pour them all together into
the vat, and run in a sufficient quantity
of weak bark liquor. Plunge it well
up, and then throw in the hides. If the
vat has a wheel in it, it should be run
about five minutes every half-hour for
the first day. I would let them remain
in this liquor twenty-four hours. If the
handler has no wheel in it, the hides
must be handled up frequently the first
day. At the expiration of the twentyfour hours, the stock must be removed,
pendent of each other by 3 cog-wheels, 1 small cog-wheel
attached to an iron shaft running parallel over the top of
the handling-wheels, with a pulley attached to the one
end of it, and is forced around by a belt from the main
shaft, running over head through the center of the tannery. By this main shaft all the works in the tannery are
run. You will observe that a belt, running from this
main shaft, is attached to. a pulley connected with the
pumps. The pump on the left side supplies the tannery
with anew liquors. The liquor is let off in the leaches,
and runs unto this junk, to be pumped into the tan pits
when required. The pump on the right side is used for
pumping the old liquors up into the third story, and run
into the leaches; it is first let off in the tan pit, and car



TANNING O'X-HIDES.              1337
and a new liquor prepared, which I shall
denominateCOMPOSITIoN  No. 2.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
lbs. of the 2d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d  ingredient...............................    lbs. of the 4th ingredient.
Dissolve  these  ingredients  as  usual,
and pour them all together into the vat,
and  run in a sufficient quantity of bark
liquor to cover the hides. Plunge it
ried into the junks by pipes or conductors, and then
pumped into other vats or into the leaches for the manufacture of new liquors. The center of the engraving
represents several workmen operating, and one man
fetching a load of hides in, upon a truck-car, from the
beam-house,'ready for the action of the tanning ooze.
The first application of the hides should be to a weak
solution of tannin. No definite length of time can be
fixed upon for running the wheels. If the hides are subjected to a liquor containing one per cent. of tannin, they
should be run often at first; if the liquor is weak, they
need not be run so often. The wheels should never be
11




138                 EXAMPLE OF
well, and then throw in the stock and
let it remain in this composition two
days, and handle frequently each day.
At the end of the two days, remove the
hides and prepare a new liquor of the
following proportions, which I shall
denominateCOMPOSITION No. 3.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
lbs. of the 2d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 4th ingredient.
allowed to run longer than 5 minutes at a time (less will
do); they should be run once every half-hour, or once
every 1 or 2 hours, as the case may require. The wheel
must be geared for the face of it to move at the rate
of 18 revolutions to the minute. Cog gearing has a decided advantage over belting, as the motion required is so
slow that belts are often found troublesome. The motion
wanted is slow and steady, which can be best had with
gearing. It will be observed that a belt drives the shaft
running lengthwise over the top of the paddle-wheels;
and that each wheel is furnished with a pair of cog-wheels,
and a pinion on the shaft above (which is loose), and is




TANNING OX-HIDES.                139
Dissolve these ingredients the same as
in the preceding compositions. After
they are dissolved, pour them all
together into the handler, and run'in
a sufficient quantity of bark liquor;
plunge it well together, and throw in
the   stock,  and  let  it remain  in  this
liquor two days. Keep it well handled
during that time.  At the expiration
of the two days, remove the hides
and prepare a new liquor, which I shall
denominatecaught with a clutch, forced in or out with a small iron
lever. These wheels are, of course, independent of each
other. The pair of iron pulleys on the end of this shaft
should be 24 inches diameter, and 6-inch turned face; the
cog-wheels 24 to 26 inches diameter, 2k-inch face of cog,
with pinion one-fourth the size. The shaft is, therefore,
moving 4 times as fast as the paddle-wheels.; It is seldom
necessary to run more than 1 or 2 wheels at the same
time; therefore a large number of wheels may be thus
geared to the same driving-shaft, and with but one belt
for the whole number. It will also be observed that they
are plain paddle-wheels, operating on the upper portion




140                EXAMPLE OF
COMPOSITION No. 4.
lbs. of the Ist ingredient.
-: —---------     lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
-, —----------------------—....... lbs. of the 3d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 4th ingredient.
Dissolve  these  ingredients  as  usual,
and pour them into the handler, and run
in  a sufficient quantity of bark  liquor;
plunge  it well, and  then  throw  in  the
stock, and let. it remain  in  this composition two days.   If well fed and properly
of the liquor, while the stock being- handled is in the vats,
entirely loose and free, and moves in an opposite direction
to that:of the wheels. A gentle and yet effectual motion
is given to the stock and liquor by means of the wheel,
and a semi-circular (or semi-elliptical lengthwise) false
bottom placed in the vats. This false bottom should be
made with slats of inch-boards, 5 or 6 inches wide, an
placed across the vats horizontally, and left about half an
inch apart, so that the liquor under the slats, in the corners of the vats, will circulate among the hides, and so
that the liquor may be drawn off while the stock remains
in the vat. The wheel is placed across and over the cen



TANNING OX-HIDES.               141
managed, by this time  it will be  ready
for splitting.
SPLITTING MACHINE.
The leather is sometimes prepared for
splitting  by  being  only partially  dried.
Hides that are intended  for japanning
and enameling purposes are generally
split before they are wholly tanned, as
ter of the vat, and, when put in motion, will cause the
stock to move up in front, pass under the wheel, and down
on the back end of the vat, by the action of the floats of
the handler; and a portion of the liquor urged by the
motion against the slats at one end of the vat, finds its
way between them and rises again between the slats of
the opposite end, thus maintaining a constant circulation
of the liquor throughout the vat. These handlers may
be advantageously used for liming and bating, as well as
tanning. The semi-cylindrical false bottom of slats, resting on the bottom of the vat, is an inch thick and 18 inches
wide, the center of which is in the center of the vat,
11*




1142'EXAMPLE OF
the quality of the leather is thought to
be  improved  by  finishing  the  tanning
after they have been thinned or divided
by the? machine.
After the hides are split, I would subject them  to  the  following  composition,
which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION  No. 5.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.............  lbs. of the 3d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 4th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as usual,
planed on the upper side, and nailed to the vat; another
piece is prepared with feather-edge slats, and nailed to the
end of the vat, about half the way between the bottom
and the top. The remainder of the false bottom is made
in two parts, with slats placed half an inch apart, and with
a space of about half an inch between each end and the
sides of the vat. The lower part is fastened to the board
with leather hinges, the upper part fastened to the end
with a button. This arrangement is made that the vat
may be cleaned when. required. Care must be taken to
have the falsebottom, when in the vat, level. The vats
may be three-fourths, or less, as deep as they are long,



TANNING OX-HIDES.                 143
and pour them into the vat all together,
and  run in a sufficient quantity  of bark
liquor to cover the stock; plunge it well
up, and then throw in the splits, and let
them remain in this composition two or
three days. Handle them often during
that time.
If a soft, mild  substance  of leather is
wanted, use the fifth ingredient freely.
The second and fourth ingredients must
not be used in this part of the  tanning.
At the expiration of the above time the
the lower part of the semi-cylinder, or false bottom of the
slats, resting on or near the bottom of the vat. The false
bottom  should be made a half-circle, or a half-ellipsis
lengthwise, and formed with slats of inch boards, about 6
inches wide, and placed in the vats horizontally, half an
inch apart, The wheel should be two-thirds as large in
diameter as is the diameter of the cylindrical bottom  or
the length of the vat. A vat 8 feet long may be 6 feet, or
less, deep; and the wheel' 5 feet 4 inches diameter; the
diameter of the half-circle in the vat being 8 feet. A
wheel of this: size should have 10 paddles, as they should
be about 18 inches apart on the outside of the wheel. Let
the wheel be placed directly over the center of the vat, and




144                 EXAMPLE OF
stock must be removed, and a new liquor
prepared, which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 6.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 4th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as usual,
and pour them into the handler all
together, and run in a sufficient quantity
of bark liquor; plunge it well, and then
throw   in  the  stock.   Let it remain  in
the ends of the wheel must work within three-quarters of
an inch of'the side. The paddles should be made as wide
as the wheel is'intended to work in the vat; that will be
about 2 inches wider than they are intended to be in the
liquor. The wheel must dip down 2 inches more than onefifth part of the depth of the vat after the false bottom is
in. It is the most simple, effectual, and scientific mode of
moving the leather in the liquor, and does away entirely
with the necessity of handling by hand, facilitates the process of tanning to an astonishing degree, saves a great
amount of labor, forms a handsome grain, and in all
respects improves the quality and texture of the leather.




TANNING OX-HIDES.      145
this composition until it is tanned; or, if
this is not sufficient to tan it out, give
them another liquor of the, same kind,
and tan them out. Leather tanned by
this process, for japanning and enameling
purposes, need not be subjected to the
additional process of sumaching. The
stock tanned by this process is whiter
and brighter than any other tannage,
and is more beautiful, finer, and more
pliable.












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CHAPTER XI.
EXAMPLE OF TANNING FIFTY SIDES OF
SOLE-LEATHER.
THE tanning of sole-leather by this
process is conducted nearly in the same
way as tanning with Spanish oak bark:
only the tanning can be perfected in
about one-fourth of the usual time, and
at about half- the expense, compared
with the old method of tanning. Take
twenty-five hides and prepare them for
the tannin. In preparing, they are split
or cut in half along the back, in a line
from the head to the tail, making fifty
sides. After having been well prepared




150           EXAMPLE OF
for the tannin, I would subject them to
the Following composition, which I shall
denominate
(N. B.-The ingredients are recognized in the following compositions by
numbers corresponding with those of
Composition number one, Chapter VIII.)
COMPOSITION NO., 1.
lbs. of the Ist ingredient.
lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
lb. of the 4th ingredient........................... lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients in hot water
or hot bark liquor. After they are dissolved, pour them all together in a vat,
and run in a sufficient quantity of the
fifth run of bark liquor to make the
liquor cover the amount of stock proposed to be tanned. Plunge -the liquor




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.       151
up well, and then throw in the sides; let
them remain in this liquor for two days.
They should be handled once every
hour during  this time.  On the first
application of a hide to the ooze, I generally run the wheels once every halfhour, say about five minutes at a time,
in order to keep the liquor and stock
well agitated. At the expiration of two
days, remove the stock and cast off the
liquor. Then prepare a new liquor of
the following proportions of ingredients,
which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 2...................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
-. —. —-....-.................... lbs.  of  the   2d   ingredient.
-.. —... —..-....... —....l.......   lbs. of  the  3d   ingredient..................................l. lbs. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients the same as
before. After they are dissolved, pour
12




152           EXAMPLE OF
them all together into the vat, and use a
sufficient quantity of the fourth run of
bark liquor to cover the stock in the
vat; then throw in the sides, and let
them remain in this liquor two days.
They must be handled six or eight times
each day during the two days. The
first day, the wheel should be run about
five minutes every hour; and about five
minutes every two hours the second day.
At the end of this period the stock must
be removed, and a new liquor made of
the following proportions of ingredients,
which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 3.................................l..  lbs. of the 1st ingredient...................................  lbs. of  the  2d  ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients in hot




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.    153
water or hot bark liquor, whichever is
most convenient.  After they are dissolved, put them all together in the vat;
then fill the vat with third and half run
of bark liquor; plunge it up well, then
throw in the sides, and let them remain
in this liquor for three days; handle
about five times each day. At the endof the third day, the stock must be
removed into a stronger liquor. The
liquor of number three can be used for a
succeeding pack, and a new liquor made
of the following proportions for the first
pack, which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 4.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as before




154          EXAMPLE OF
described. When they are dissolved,
put them all together in the vat; fill
the vat with the third run of bark
liquor; then throw in the sides, and let
them remain in this liquor three days.
Handle about four or five times each
day.  While the stock is green, it
requires more attention than when
nearly or about tanned. When about
this stage, it absorbs the tannin very
fast, and, consequently, requires more
attention. Every tanner knows (if he
don't, he should,) that when stock be.comes nearly tanned it receives the
tannin much slower than when in a
green state. The liquor should never
be allowed to remain on the stock after
its strength is exhausted, for it will do
more damage in one day than can be
made up in four. At the' end of the
third day remove the sides. Use the
old liquor for a pack not so far advanced,




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.       155
and make a new liquor, which I shall
denominateCoMPosITIoN No. 5.......-.......... —.. —.......   lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
— l............................. lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
- l.............................. lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as is done
in the preceding compositions.  When
they are dissolved, pour them all together into the vat, and run in a sufficient quantity of the second run of bark
liquor. Plunge it well together, then
throw in the stock, and let it remain in
this liquor four days.  Handle three or
four times each day during that period.
At the expiration of this time remove
the sides; use the old liquor for a succeeding pack, and make a liquor, which
I shall denominate12*




156             EXAMPLE OF
CoMPosITIoN No. 6...:.-.-........................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
-................-.............. lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
-—.... —...-......... —......... lbs. of the 3d ingredient.:.......-......................... lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve  these  ingredients  in  hot
water or hot bark liquor. After they
are dissolved, pour them all together
into the vat; then run in a small quantity of the first and half run of bark
liquor, and plunge it up well; and then
lay the sides down spread out, lying or
extending lengthwise of the vat, with
dusters of fine ground  bark  between
every side (what tanners generally term
laying away), and let them lie in that
condition four days without being moved
or touched.  A representation of laying
down sides of leather alternately in a
vat (what tanners generally term laying
away) is shown by the wood engraving




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.        157'
in front of this chapter. At the expiration of the four days, remove the
stock.  Use the old liquor for a pack
not so far advanced in the tanning, and
make a new liquor of the following
proportions of ingredients, which I shall
denominate-,
COMPOSITION No. 7.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient...........................-...... lbs. of the 2d ingredient.....-...............................   lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
-.. —.....-.......................   lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients the same as
the preceding composition. After they
are dissolved, pour them all together
into the vat, and run in a sufficient quantity of the first run of bark liquor; then
plunge it well together; and' then lay
the sides down with dusters, as described in Composition number six, and
let them lie in that position five days.




158.   EXAMPLE OF
In some tanneries they hang their stock
across the middle of the side, in the vats,
on slats running across the vat, with the
butt and head down, —which is just as
good for some kinds of stock as laying
away.  These ingredients may be used
in the same way for hanging the stock
in the vats, as for laying away, with the
exception of using the ground bark
when the sides are hung in the vats.
The liquor must be kept up as the tanning advances.  The liquor should be
renewed seasonably, and its strength
increased in a ratio proportionate to each
stage of tanning. When five days expire, remove the sides, and prepare a new
liquor, which I shall denominateCOMPOSITION No. 8.
lbs. of the 1st ingredient.....-....-....-l.................. lbs. of the 2d ingredient...............................  lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
r-_~ —------------   ~lb. of the 5th ingredient.




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.       159'
Dissolve these ingredients in the same
way as the former. After they are dissolved, pour them into the vat all
together, and run in a sufficient quantity
of very strong bark liquor; then plunge
well up, and lay the stock down with
dusters, as usual. Let them remain in
that condition six days without being
disturbed; at the end of the six days
remove the sides. Use the old liquor
for a succeeding pack, and prepare a
new liquor of the following ingredients)
which I shall denominateCOMPOSITIONl No. 9.................................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient....................................  lbs. of the 2d ingredient.
l.................................. lbs. of the 3d ingredient... —.......-....................... lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients the same as
in the preceding compositions.  When




160            EXAMPLE OF
they are dissolved, pour them all together into  the vat; then  run  in  a
sufficient quantity of real strong bark
liquor, and plunge it well up; then lay
the sides down with dusters, as usual,
and let them  lie in that position seven
days; at the expiration of that period
take the stock up again, and prepare a
new liquor, which I shall denominate —
COMPOSITION No. 10................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
--------------------—.. —----- lbs.   of  the    2d    ingredient..............................l.. lbs. of the 3d ingredient.....................    I lb. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as usual.
After they are dissolved, pour them into
the vat, and run in a sufficient quantity
of real strong bark liquor; plunge well
up; then  lay the  sides  down  with
dusters of bark, as usual, and let them




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.      161
lie in that position eight days.  At the
expiration of that period, raise'the stock
out. Use the old liquor for a succeeding
pack, and prepare a new liquor of the
following  ingredients, which  I  shall
denominateCOMPOSITION NO. 11...................... lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
-...-.....-..-..-.. 1 —............ lbs. of the 2d ingredient...................... lbs. of the 3d ingredient.:    --— lbs. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as usual,
and pour them into the vat; run in a
sufficient quantity of real strong bark
liquor; plunge it well; then lay down
the stock with dusters, as usual, and let
it remain in that condition nine days.
At the expiration of that period remove
the sides, and prepare a new  liquor,
which I shall denominate



162            EXAMPLE OF
COMPOSITION NO. 12......................lbs. of the 1st ingredient.
--------— I —-—.- lbs. of  the  2d   ingredient.
lbs. of the 3d ingredient.
lbs. of the 5th ingredient.
Dissolve these ingredients as usual.
After they are dissolved, pour them into
the vat, and run in a sufficient quantity
of bark liquor, as strong as it can be
made. Plunge it well up, so that it will
make a liquor about forty per cent.
strong. Then lay the stock down in the
vat, with dusters of fine ground bark
between every side, and let them lie in
that position ten days.  This will make
sixty-three days.  The heaviest stock
can be tanned in sixty days. I have
frequently, tanned sole-leather in forty
days by the judicious use of strong
liquors. Leather can be made as good
in forty days as it can in twelve months.




TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.  163
Leather tanned in forty days is much
heavier than that in the long tanning.
When these ingredients are dissolved in
good, hot, soft water, and mixed with
good bark liquor, they will make a
superior tanning agent, whose active
principles are very soluble. By being
gradually extracted, they will penetrate uniformly the whole of the animal fibres, instead of acting chiefly upon
the surface, and will make a heavy,
solid article of leather. In fact, one
hundred pounds of dry hides, quickly
tanned in good liquor made with this
combination, will produce about one
hundred and sixty-five pounds -of soleleather; while one hundred pounds of
dry hides, slowly tanned in the old way,
with bark liquor, produce only one hundred and forty-three pounds. The additional twenty-two pounds' weight in the
quick tanning serve materially to swell
13




164  EXAMPLE OF TANNING SOLE-LEATHER.
the tanner's bill. At the end of ten
days the stock may be taken out perfectly tanned, and, in less than three
months, it may  be  finished  and  in
market.








i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ml;-~~i i!~~~~~~~L                                                 9t
A VIEW'017'11-11,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 




CHAPTER XII.
CURRYING AND FINISHING LEATHER.
CURRIER.-The word currier means a
dresser of leather. The derivation of
the word currier is from the Latin,-the
term for skin being corium. Both the
ancients and the moderns have understood currying as the preparation of
tanned skins for the purpose of imparting to them the necessary smoothness,
color, lustre, and suppleness. Curried
leather receives different designations,
according to the modes of dressing it
which  are  employed,-as  tallowed




168          CURRYING AND
leather, waxed leather, oiled leather,
grained leather, and fair leather, &c.
The first operation of the currier is
that of dipping the leather or softening
it. For this purpose the skins are deposited in a tub containing water, standing alongside of the table, in which they
are allowed to remain until they become
sufficiently  moist; or else they  are
sprinkled with water from a brush or
broom, which is a much less effectual
method.
SHAVING is the first operation of the
currier.  After dipping and softening
the skins, they must be pared or shaved
with a currying-knife for the purpose of
securing uniformity of thickness and
regularity of surface. When, however,
the leather presents many weak and thin
parts, this. operation may sometimes be
dispensed with or postponed until these
have been filled up by the action of the




FINISHING LEATHER.    169
stretching-iron.  While preferences are
given in different places to other modes
of working some kinds of leather, all
kinds, indifferently, are shaved by the
currier. In some tanneries the skins are
taken from the tan-pit, when about twothirds tanned and shaved, to reduce the
thick parts and let the tannin penetrate
the skin uniformly. It is termed by
some pating, and by others skiving.
This operation, however, is dispensed
with in many tanneries. The general
plan or method of currying and dressing
leather is about the same in principle,
as in all countries they use oil, tallow,
and labor, to make the leather suitable
for the different manufactures to which
it may be applied. The state of the
leather at the time of their application has
much to do with its quality and general
appearance when the process of currying
is completed. In many parts of Europe
13*




170          CURRYING AND
they want the leather perfectly saturated
with oil, which they believe makes it
more durable in wear. In FPrance, they
want a fine, light, soft, and mild article
of leather, but not so deeply saturated
with oil as to darken its color.  In ]gland, the public want a stout, heavy,
solid article, no matter what the cost
may be, as they find it cheaperin the
end. In this country, we have a blending together of the whole, as our ruling
principle is to get the most we can for
our money. We findall grades, kinds,
and qualities of leather at prices to suit
the purchaser, while our best leather has
ready sale, and is much sought for in
the markets of Europe and Australia;
and contracts for a constant supply of it
are now matters of daily occurrence.
Hence, we infer that we have facilities
for obtaining materials. Science, skill,
and capital are employed to an extent,




FINISHING LEATHER.     171
in manufacturing all kinds of leather,
that will ultimately command the markets of the world without fear of competition. A detailed plan of our mode
of currying and dressing leather may
not be understood by all, but I will
endeavor to make it as plain as I can.
After the skins have been shaved,
they are placed upon a marble table and
the flesh side scoured out completely
with a brush and clean water. After
having thus been well worked, the flesh
side is stretched upon the same table,
and the hair side worked with a stone
and slicker, and scoured to extend them
thoroughly; the stretching-iron is then
well laid on, by which process all the
water is pressed out. The skins having
in this way been freed from the greater
portion of their watery contents,.they
may be held in readiness for the application of the oil. They then receive a




172          CURRYING AND
light coat of oil on the grain or hair side,
and are hung up by the hind shanks to
stiffen or scammey (as it is termed), and
are then exposed, for the purpose of
drying, either in the open air or within
the  building, —one  hour's  exposure
usually sufficing in summer,. while in
winter many more are required. After
being sufficiently dried, they are taken
down, and placed upon a marble table,
and slicked out hard on the flesh side
with a slicker or stretching-iron. After
the skins have thus been well worked,
they receive a mixture of oil and tallow,
termed dubbing, upon the flesh side.
After the skins have received their coating of dubbing upon the flesh side, and
the workman has uniformly distributed
it over the surface with the stuffingcloth, he hangs them up by the hind
quarters, and allows them to remain in
the air long enough to absorb their con



FINISHING LEATHER.     1)73
tents of stuffing, taking care not to let
them-be exposed to the extreme heat of
the sun or to a great draught of air, for,
if they are dried too rapidly, the stuffing
will not penetrate them in the gradual
manner necessary for the perfection of
the process. Twenty-four hours of exposure are usually sufficient in summer,
while in winter two or three days are
often required, according to the state of
the weather. After the skins have become sufficiently dry, they are taken
down, and the hair side placed upon a
table, and the remaining dry stuffing
removed from  the flesh side by the
slicker. They are then submitted to
the action of the pommel, and are
boarded  up.  These instruments are
those best adapted for the purpose of
giving flexibility and a granular appearance to the leather. The skin is first
folded with its grain side in contact,




174         CURRYING AND
then stretched out upon a table and
rubbed strongly with the pommel, or
mnarguerite, each quarter being made to
slide under the instrument, over the
leather below it, first toward the center,
and then back to its original position.
This mode of working leather makes it
extremely flexible. To give the proper
grain, the skin is then stretched out
upon the flesh side, and pommeled from
head to'tail and crosswise. After the
aforesaid process is completed, the skins
are then taken to the beam or table and
whitened. This operation is performed
by some with the currying knife, on the
beam; and, by others, the skin. is
stretched out upon a table, with the
grain side lying upon a piece of smooth
leather, fastened to the table, so that the
skin can be held by the workman and
whitened with a whiting-slicker, an
instrument made expressly for that pur



FINISHING LEATHER.    175
pose. The latter is more generally used
than the former. The skins are trimmed
off around the edges with a common
knife, and then about two or three dozen
are placed upon a table for the applieation of the blacking.  The blacking
composition is made of oil,' tallow, and
lampblack. The skins are now blacked
while still upon the table, and are moistened before this'operation if they have
become too dry,' as a certain degree
of humidity is necessary to enable them
to receive the color. For the purpose of
blacking, a mop of wool or brush of
horse-hair is dipped in the composition
and the flesh side is thoroughly rubbed
with it in every direction. After the
skins have received a sufficient quantity
of blacking, a size is prepared of equal
parts of glue and tallow, made to the
proper consistency, and applied upon
the blacking with a hard brush. When




17.6         CURRYING AND
sizing sets, apply the glass slicker over
the surface, great care being taken to
avoid scratching it, and a fine, bright finish will be produced. Gum Arabic, or
flax-seed oil, or gum dragon may be
used, which will also produce a fine,
bright, hard finish.
HARNEss LEATHER is finished about
the same as calf-skins, with a little ex*ception. The side or hide, whichever it
may be, when dry, is placed upon a
table and properly moistened with
chamber ley or sal soda. A blacking
composition is prepared of copperas,
iron rust, and bark liquor. The blacking is applied to the grain side. After
the application  of the blacking, the
workman' distributes a thin coat of hard
tallow upon the blacked surface, which
is well stoned in. When a fine article
is desired, apply to the grain side, upon
the blacking, a good. coat of stuffing, and




FINISHING LEATHER.    1'77
hang it up until dry; then take it down,
place it upon a table, and slick off both
the grain and flesh side, care being
taken not to scratch the: finished surface,
and a: handsome, smooth, and solid finish
will be produced.
BLACKED BRIDLE is finished the same
as harness leather.
RUSSET BRIDLE is shaved and scoured,
and generally is washed with a solution
of vitriol and water, care being taken
not to have the solution too strong.
When tanned in the old way, with bark
alone, it must be subjected to a solution
of sumach liquor about twelve hours.
(This operation is entirely dispensed
with when tanned by this process of
tanning.) After being sumached, the
leather is then dipped in a tub or vat
containing a solution of sugar of lead
and vitriol, mixed in proper consistency
with a sufficient quantity of hot water.
14




178          CURRYING AND
The leather is plunged in and out until
the color suits the taste of the workman; it is then hung'up to sammey.
When partly dry, the table is stuffed,
and the side is placed upon the stuffing
on the table, and well set out with a
glass slicker, which leaves a smooth,
solid surface. A little oxalic acid and
water is then prepared and applied upon
the grain with a brush (which must be
done with care), and a bright russet
leather will be produced.
IHORsE LEATHER is finished in the same
way as harness leather.
WAx LEATHER is finished the same as
calf-skins.
GRAINED LEATHER is finished about
the same as harness leather. That which
is intended for shoes and boots, after it
is shaved to a proper thickness, is
pommeled or grained for the purpose
of giving to the leather the desired




FINISHING LEATHER.     179
finish, flexibility, and granular appearance.
This kind of leather is used chiefly.by
shoemakers for the uppers of large shoes
or stoga boots, the hair side being placed
out against the frost and storms, in the
same way as Nature placed it upon the
animal's body, for protection against the
inclemency of the weather.
PATENT   LEATHER.-This  leather,
known  in  commerce  as  "PATENT
LEATHER," is very largely used for
dress boots and shoes, and for fancy
mountings. There are various methods
of manufacturing it. Two distinct operations are resorted to in the manufacture of polished leather,-one  of
which is the preparation of the surface
for receiving the varnish, and which is
effected by closing the pores of the
leather, and making a proper ground by
repeatedly rubbing the surface with pul



180          CURRYING AND
verulent substances, and incorporating
them  with it; and the other is the
varnishing of the leather thus dressed
with suitable brilliant and transparent
materials. The bases or medium of the
substance used for both these purposes
is linseed oil, made drying by boiling
with metallic oxides or salts, and reduced
to a sirupy consistence by the prolonged
action of heat. Five gallons of linseed
oil are boiled with four pounds four and
a half ounces of white lead, and the
same quantity of litharge, each in a
state of fine division, until it becomes of
the consistence of thick:sirup.  This
mixture is then intimately united with
one of the ochres, or with powdered
chalk, according to the fineness of the
skins which are to be prepared, and -is
uniformly spread upon either side of the
leather, and well worked into the pores
with appropriate tools. The leather is




FINISHING LEATHER.      181
dried, after the application of each coat,
by hanging it up, or, what is better, laying it out upon frames or racks in the
drying room. The success of the whole
process depends very much upon the
care with which the skins prepared with
it have been selected, tanned, and
curried.
14*












~~z~~~"r~~~~~    ir; ii ~~~~~~~~~Ar ys:\jl   ii    I/j~~~~i   ~ ~ J~lri Nyl   Z,~~~,~~, ~ ~       HE   E-3,IVE  A,\DQVAITY(F,17TT~l',T —- TE  SLESROO   01, SORE




CHAPTER XIII.
THE TEXTURE AND QUALITY OF LEATHER.
LE.ATHER.-The manufacture of leather
has been estimated as only foiurtt in
importance among the national manufactures of Great Britain. Leather is
the skin of animals so modified by
chemical means as to have become unalterable by the external agents which
tend to decompose it in its natural state.
It is evident, from what has already
been observed, that well-tanned leather
is a homogeneous substance, entirely free
from unchanged gelatin or fibrin; but




186         THE TEXTURE AND'if the articles used in its preparation
have been deficient in tanning ingredients or otherwise wanting in quality;
if the various processes have been im*perfectly or carelessly performed; or if
unforeseen accidents have'occurred, the
excellence' of the leather is impaired;
and this is generally to be discovered by
making a section of it. Well-tanned
leather exhibits, when cut, a shinining
surface and compact body, and is of a
uniform color, except upon the hair side,
and has a nutmeg appearance internally.
Those signs are commonly looked for in
the tail, the back, and the neck, which
are the thickest parts of the  skin.
Badly made or inferior: leather is commonly detected by its section being of a
yellowish or blackish color, alternately
with streaks of a black or whitish hue,
and by its structure being loose and
deficient in density and' compactness;




QUALITY' OF LEATHER.    187
and a number of other circumstances
give to leather a spongy and loose
texture, and render it deficient in the
requisite color and durability. These
defects are of such a nature that, when
once tanned, the leather cannot be improved or restored to a better condition.
Some hides are called horny,-parts of'
which, from want of proper softening,
are dry and almost as hard as horn; and
these are entirely unfit for shoe or boot.
leather, as the tan has not perfectly
penetrated the hard parts. Others con —
tain extremely minute perforations made
by worms, which allow water to filter
through, and render' them useless for
either  sole-leather  or  carriage-tops.
Many hides are injured by the butchers, who' damage the flesh side by a
reckless manner of skinning.  These
imperfections can only be remedied by
shaving the surface down to a uniform




188        THE TEXTURE AND
thickness, at the risk of making the hide
thin and weak. Shoemakers using soleleather which has been made from
hides damaged upon the hair side, either
in depilating, in paring, or in rinsing
them, should be careful to place the
flesh side out; otherwise, as soon as the
hair surface has become a little worn,
the sole will become spongy and easily
absorb moisture. A common mode of
determining the quality of leather is to
allow a drop of water to fall from the
end of the finger upon the hair side, on
a cut surface. If the drop preserves its
circular form, and does not extend, the
leather is supposed to be well tanned;
while, if the water is soon absorbed, it is
regarded as an evidence of its substance
being spongy and badly prepared. It is
believed.-by some that leather is improved in quality by age; and it is a
common reproach against shoemakers




QUALITY OF LEATHER.     189
that they make use of too fresh materials. Exposure for a certain length of
time is, doubtless, advantageous; but
leather is not improved by being kept
longer than two years; and' is apt, after
that time, to  diminish  in  weight,making it necessary to store it in damp
cellars. The resistance and durability
of'the leather made into soles of boots
and shoes are Imuch increased by their
being laid aside for some time before
being worn. The coloring of leather
during the process of tanning arises from
a dark brown substance, existing more
or less in the infusions of tanning materials, and  called, by Sir Humphrey
Davy, apotheme. This sparingly soluble
substance is generated by the oxidation
of'extractive matter, and is gradually
formed when infusions of tanning materials are exposed to the air,-all the
varieties of tannin being, to a certain




190'       THE TEXTURE AND
extent, liable to this transformation.
Hence it is that the uppermost hide'of
the vat, being the most exposed, is the
most highly colored. This color, or
bloom, as it is technically termed, varies
somewhat with the kind of tannin employed and the treatment or management during the process of tanning.
Leather tanned with materials containing the gall variety and ellagic acid,
or the pure tannic acid of tannin, is
bloomed much higher and handsomer
than with any other coloring matter,
and which cannot be obtained in bark
liquor alone. The pale or bright bloom
or color is the product of the decomposition of strong or weak tannin respectively employed. Weak liquor yields
less bloom, and stronger more, being
richer in tannin. When properly managed, the bloom attaches itself permanently to the animal tissue and forms a




QUALITY OF LEATHER.     191
beautiful, saleable color. The fawn color
is the favorite bloom. In this quick process, the tannin being exposed for a much
shorter time, yields a richer bloom than
by t~he old and lengthy methods of
tanning. Consequently, as time is an
important element in the formation of
tanning, by this process we diminish
time, labor, and  expenses materially.
The more expeditiously the different
processes can be accomplished the better will be the quality of leather produced. It is considered, however, by
some, that it may be tanned too rapidly
to be good. A greater mistake never
was entertained by any intelligent mind.
After the leather has received all the
necessary operation of finishing, it is
then placed in the sales-room or store
for the examination of purchasers, who
generally make a very close and accurate
15




192       QUALITY OF LEATHER.
examination of its texture, tannage, and
quality.
An examination of the texture and
quality of leather, in the commission
house or store room, is represented by
a  wood  engraving  in  front of this
chapter.








m —~-    --:fi
DD~~uDDDD~DL]~~ L]               _.__-______~.A ~-~i-~
00CUC3[7[I;L~~~~~IVE NER U
-__. 1_....1.1I_
~1EW OF CINTSTON TANNERY ON SCIIUYLKILI, I~IV   NEAR THlE KITTANANING MOUNTAINS;  ALSO, A I)AGRAM OR GROUND
PLAN OF TIIE SAME.




CHAPTER XIV.
REMARKS ON TANNING.
THE views I entertain, and herein
endeavor to express on this subject are
the results of a practical experience in
the manufacture of leather of various
*  THE CLINTON TANNERY.-In the old method, years ago,
tanners were usually satisfied to locate their tanneries in
the midst of a bark forest, upon a small spring, with
merely a sufficient quantity of water for the manufacturing purposes, and work the machinery by the old and
tedious process generally known as horse-power. The
principles governing this reaction have been, in more
recent days, developed by the most skillful and experienced manufacturers of leather. The combination of convenience and advantages derived from water-power-the
readiness and cheapness with which bark may be ob



196                   REMARKS
kinds, and by very many experiments,
prompted by a desire to improve in the
manufacture of one of the first and most
important articles of every-day consumption. Perhaps there is no branch
of domestic manufacturing where there
is so much room for, and need of, improvement, as in the tanning of leather.
This country has been, and still is, overrun with patented alleged improvements
in every branch of manufacturing business; and great improvements in almost
every branch of manufacturing certainly
have been made.
tained —has induced the tanner at once, without reflection,
to locate upon Nature's elements, a place apparently
formed for the designed purpose, and build a factory upon
the most improved plan and of the largest size. The tannery is a wooden frame building, 240 feet in length, 40.
feet in breadth, and 3 stories (each 8 feet high). Adjoining the north end of the tannery is a bark-house 90 feet
long, 40 feet wide, and 16 feet high, with windows in each
side, through which bark is received. Within the area of
the tannery are contained'76 vats, affording about 15,652
cubic feet of room for tanning purposes, with sufficient




ON. TANNING.                 197
For the tanning business there have
been but few patents granted which
have proved useful; yet it will not do,
in this age  of progress, to  condemn, untried, every new  thing that may be
offered. Let every alleged improvement
rest entirely  upon  its  own  merits; for,
whatever its merits may be, they will, in
time, be known. We are too inquisitive
a people to let true merit languish for
want of encouragement.  Perhaps no
class of manufacturers has been so much
humbugged by pretended improvements
as tanners; for almost everything that
conductors for drawing the liquor to the pumps or junks —
1 set, under the bottom of the vats, and 1 within 3 inches
of the top. Both set of conductors are connected with
the junks, and also to the sewer or the waste-way, for the
purpose of conveying off waste liquors and waters. Each
of the junks are furnished with a pump of sufficient capacity to deliver all the necessary ooze charged with
tannin. Eight of the aforesaid vats are arranged in the
handling-house, furnished with paddle-wheels for handling
stock; 3 of these are placed on one side and 5 on the
other. The beam-house contains 13 vats-equivalent to
15*




198                  REMARKS
has been presented has. utterly failed to
answer the purposes pretended. Therefore it is quite necessary that the tanner
be cautious in  adopting  anything  new;;
for his business is one requiring a heavy
outlay of capital, and any unfortunate
experiment he may try may prove a
serious loss. But if an improvement be
made, and then fully proved and demonstrated-proved as represented-then
the sooner the tanner avails himself of
the advantage of it the better; for those
who take hold of all good improvements
in their business. are those that are most
successful.
4,098 cubic feet-for liming, bating, and soaking purposes.
It has connected with it a hide-mill and washing-machine,
for softening, washing, and cleansing the hides. There
are 4 leaches-equivalent to 5,120 cubic feet of room —for
extracting the tannin from bark for the tanning of hides,
which are furnished with two copper heaters. The upper
or north end of the tannery is built against a bank, making
the second story on a level with the surface of the earth.
Under the north-east corner (in the tannery connected
with the beam-house) is a sweat pit (built of stone), ar



ON TANNIN@.                 199
There is yet, in  my.opinion, much  to
learn in the art and mystery of tanning.
It is, to all intents and purposes, a chemical process, and requires much practical
experience  as well as mental research..
What is tanning  but a chemical opera-.
tion from the beginning to the endchanging hides into leather 2-  The manufacturing of leather, more than any other
mechanical branch of business, is a chemical process, almost wholly relying upon
the skill and judgment with which the
principles of tanning are conducted.
To   attain  the   requisite   skill  in  the
ranged. upon the most approved plan. In the opposite
corner, on the same level, is the machinery room, where
the.water-wheel is attached to the gearing for the purpose
of running the different work in the factory. In the center, between these two rooms, is a room for depositing
ground bark after falling from the bark-mill, which is
placed on the second story. In this room, under the bark
mill, are elevators, for carrying the ground bark up into
the third story for the purpose of supplying the leaches.
See Diagram, which is represented by a wood engraving
in fiont of this chapter, and as follows: A is the bark



200                   REMARKS
laboratory of the chemist is evidently
impossible.   It can only be  acquired  in
the tanning process itself by careful and
close   observation.   The   question  has
been frequently asked, How long does
it take to tan sole-leather?   By the  old'method of tanning, with bark alone, it
takes from eight to fifteen months; by
this system of tanning it takes from two
to three months, according  to  the  thickness of  the  sides, the  strength  of  the
liquor, and  the  number of sides in  the
vats; and the quicker tanned the better.
I would here remark, that several conroom, 20 feet in length, 183 feet in width, and 8 feet high,
made very close, for containing fine ground bark as it falls
from the bark-mill, and preserved until conveyed by a
truck-car to the tan-pits for laying away the stock. B is
a sweat pit, for sweating hides, which destroy, dissolve, or
soften the bulbous roots of the hair in the place of lime,
and thus the hair is removed; this room is built of stone,
and is, in the area, 20 feet in length, 11 feet in width, and
8 feet in depth. C is the machinery department, 11 feet
wide, 20 feet long, and 8 feet high. )D is the water-wheel,
placed on the north-west corner of the tannery, 20 feet in




ON TANNING.                 201
siderations must be  noticed in order to
meet the questions understandingly.
Firet,  I should say that the hides (as
every one knows), if heavy, require more
time than if comparatively light.
Second, If the hides are fresh, they
are capable of being properly  softened;
and, if so, the process of tanning  can be
completed much sooner than in case of
old and hard hides, that cannot be softened with the same facility.
Third,  If the  hides  have  sufficient
room in the vat, so as not to lie crowded,
they will tan much faster than when
crowded.
diameter, and 8 feet wide, with an over-shot power equivalent to 50-horse power, driven by water brought from
the Schuylkill River, in a race, from a dam made expressly
for that purpose. T is the water-wheel shaft, extending
from the wheel into the machinery-room, and there connected by gearing to the work in the tannery. E is an
entrance to the sweat pit. F is an entrance to the machinery room.  G is 4 leaches, each 16 feet in length, 5
feet in width, and 10 feet in depth; the 4 leaches will contain 5,120 cubic feet of bark and water for the manufac



202                   REMARKS
Fourth,  As the tanning advances the
liquor should be renewed seasonably,
and its strength increased in a ratio proportionable to each stage of tanning.
Fifth, When the process of tanning
is once commenced, it should not be
allowed to cease until the stock is completely tanned; and, in order that the
process may be continually going on, the
stock requires a constant increase of the
strength of the liquor.
Sixth, The  question  is, Is the leather
to  be  tanned  so  as  barely  to  pass  in
market, or to be well prepared, so as to
make firm  and solid  leather?   This
ture of tannin; the bottom of the leaches are 3 feet above
the level of the top of the tan-pits, which makes them
occupy the second story as well as the first; the room
occupied by the leaches, furnaces, and entrance to the
machinery and sweat-rooms is about 27 feet lengthwise in
the tannery, and the full width, which is 40 feet. H is 2
copper heaters (placed in the bottom of the leachers), each
3 feet in diameter and 15 feet long, tapering.off at one end
to 12 inches in diameter; the 12-inch pipe runs four times
through the leaches, and enters a stock about 18 inches




ON TANNING.                  203
involves  a  consideration  of  much  importance.
Seventh,  Is  it reasonable  to  suppose
that it requires from  one to seven years, as
we are told it formerly did in England,
to make leather from hides, when the
same work can be accomplished in the
space of three months?
But persons unacquainted with the
nature and principles of tanning generally suppose that the longer time skins
are undergoing the process of tanning
the better will be the quality of the
leather produced. This is a great mnistake.   But how   did  this  opinion  gain
below the top of the leach, making each heater 75 feet in
length, including the small and large portion; each heater
runs through two leaches.. J and V is the mouth of the
furnace in the heaters, where fuel enters and heat is obtained for heating the leaches. I is the stock or chimney,
to which the heaters are connected, for discharging smoke
and gas from the furnace. K is a hide-mill or fulling
stock (for a. full description see Chapter IV).  W  is a
washing-machine (for particulars see Chapter IV., page
49).  Y is 3 pools for soaking dry hides; each po6l is 9




204                   REMARKS
credence and become so general? By
(in  my  opinion) tanners, who  do  not
understand the first principles of their
calling, attempting to tan quickly by
applying strong liquors, at first, to hides
not properly cleansed and prepared in
the beam-house for the liquors, and by a
neglect of handling, or a proper degree
of agitation while the process is going
on. If you want to tan quickly, and
produce good and heavy leather, have
your skins properly prepared in the
beam-house.  This is the grand startingpoint in the manufacture of good leather,
and much more depends upon this
feet long, 5 feet wide, and 6 feet deep, —which will hold
810 cubic feet of water; this soak and wash-room occupies 18 feet by 40. L is the beam-house; the portion
used for unhairing and bating the hides is 48 feet in length
and 40 feet in width, making the beam-house, soak and
wash-room 66 feet in length and 40 feet wide. M is 6
vats, 9 feet long, 6 feet wide, and 6 feet deep, —for liming
and bating purposes. N is 4 vats or pools, 8 feet long, 7
feet wide, and 6 feet deep,-used for the purpose of washing and rinsing the hides. X is a trap-door, to hoist the




ON TANNING.                  205
branch of the manufacture than most
tanners  suppose.   If  for  limed  stock,
either  for  upper  or sole-leather, have
your hides in good order for the lime,-that is, soft enough, but not too soft, for
dried skins may be very much injured
by being softened too much.  (A hide,
when just taken from the- animal, should
be the criterion; it is then best suited for
the  lime.)   Then put them   in  the lime,
and have them frequently agitated, and
keep them in no longer than will be
sufficient to loosen  the  hair that it may
be removed. After the hair is completely removed, the skins are washed
stock up into the upper stories by means of a pulley or a
hoisting tackle. Q is the handling-house, 26 feet long and
40 feet wide (see description in Chapter X). P is 2
pumps, for pumping the liquors from the junks, which are
each 10 feet square and 12 feet deep; when full, will hold
2,400 cubic feet of tanning liquor. S is 8 handlers, 3 of
which are 7 feet in width, 8 feet in length, and 6 feet in
-depth; the'5 on the opposite side are 4 feet wide, 8 feet
long, and 6 feet deep; these vats are used for the first
introduction of skins to the tanning ooze.  U is 685 tan
16




206                   REMARKS
in a vat full of water, and are then subjected to a weak liquor at first, which
must be gradually strengthened until
the stock is completely tanned.
Leather is an article of universal use.
It is worn by the civilized and by the
savage, the high and the low, the rich and
the poor of all nations, from the icy
regions of the north to the burning
sands of the tropic. It was known and
used by man long before the first alphabet
was invented-before the waters of the
deluge had rolled over the face of our
planet-before the Tower of Babel was
vats,-24 of which are 8 feet in length, 7 feet in width,
and 5~ feet in depth; the balance, being 44 vats, are 7,
feet long, 38 feet wide, and 5~~feet deep.  0 is the doors
for passing in and out the tannery. R is a railroad, of 2~
feet track, running through the center of the tannery,
running from the bark-room down through the center, and
out at the lower end, and around to the bank of the river,
for carrying out the waste materials and carrying the stock
through the different parts of the factory; and also a railroad running across in front of the furnaces, and out at




ON TANNING.                 207
erected-or the foundations of the everenduring Pyramids were laid.
Leather is an article of manufacture,entirely a compound substance, a chemical product. Although it is made of
the skins of animals, it is as different
from the raw material as oil-one of
its   two   ingredients-is   from     soap.
Skins are principally composed of gelatin, which is soluble in hot water, and is
converted  into  glue  by repeated  steepings in warm  water.   Leather is simply
the raw material combined with other
substances, which  render it elastic  and
insoluble in water. Various substances
each side, down on the lower side to the wood and coalyard, and, on the upper side, across the turnpike to the
storehouse. This latter road is for carrying hides from
the warehouse into the tannery, and the leather into the
warehouse, and also for bringing fuel into the factory for
heating purposes. The second story of the building is
occupied for finishing purposes, and is furnished with a
railroad, running through the center from one end to the
other, for the convenience of the workmen. The third
story is used for drying the stock, which is also possessed




208                  REMARKS
are employed  to  obtain this result; and
different  qualities  of leather  are  produced by the different ingredients em-,
ployed and the modes of using them in
its manufacture.
The process -of manufacture  is named
tanning, and the principal substance employed is tannic acid. This acid is found
in   various  substances.   Good   upperleather should have the following qualities, —elasticity, softness, and insolubility
in  water.   Good  sole-leather should  be
close in the grain, firm, but slightly
elastic, and perfectly water-proof. Tannic acid is extracted from various subwith the convenience of a railroad. The bark-shed, on
the north end of the factory, is 90 feet long, 40 feet wide,.
-and 16 feet high, with a railroad in the center, running
from the upper or north end down to the bark-mill. The
floor of the shed is on a level with the floor in the second
story of the tannery. The shed will hold, when full, 450,
cords of bark, besides other sheds of similar size, within
one and three hundred yards distant from the factory, but
connected by railroad.
This commodious edifice is situated on the east bank of




ON TANNING.                 209
stances containing tannin, by immersing
those ingredients in hot water, and thereby forming a decoction of tanning ooze.
By simply steeping the hides in this tanliquor, the tannin leaves the water, combines with the gelatine of the skin
chemically, and forms our',' understandings,"' which we term Leather. This is
the  theory of tanning; but, in carrying
it into practice, the manipulations are exceedingly various, and the qualities of the
leather manufactured depend on a very
extensive range of processes, machinery,
and chemical substances. All the processes of tanning are laborious, expensive,
the Schuylkill River, about 1~ miles from Clinton Village,
which is situated on the west side of the river, nearly
opposite the tannery. The factory is about one mile from
the Kittanning or Blue Mountains, where bark is obtained
in an abundance at a very small cost, and is used in connection with my chemicals. The main road or turnpike
from Pottsville to Reading is about 20 yards distant, and
parallel with the front of the tannery. On the same level,
about 100 yards from the tannery, is a storehouse, 20 feet
by 50, and 2 stories high. On the same side of the road,
16*




210                  REMARKS
and tedious. It formerly required months
and years to tan leather from  hides; and
the cost of manufacturing leather from
the raw material amounted to millions
of dollars annually; but now time and
expense are materially reduced.
Inventive genius has done wonders in
facilitating chemico-physical processes of
this. art.  Only think  for a moment of
the'-Ich;ange which  has  come  over the
spiriti of the tanner's dream. Three, and
even  seven yearsg were  once considered
necessaryi:fort;:he  perfection  of certain
kinds:,of Jleather,-such  as that which
furnishes our shoe-soles.  The machinerya short distance above the storehouse, are about 20 dwelling houses, and also a fine, commodious hotel, and several
mechanical shops. This commodious factory, and all the
convenience of water power, and facilities of shipping
hides and leather, are represented by a wood engraving
in front of this chapter. About 400 yards from the north
end of the tannery-which is seen on the engraving-is a
bridge, built across the Schuylkill River, through which
is a road leading up to Clinton, which is also seen in a
distant view from the factory. About 300 yards from the




ON TANNING.                 211
aided process by which these wonders
have been accomplished, has been known
and used in this country for some years.,
By the aid of this new  process, whose
principle is to bring  the  skins into  rapidly-repeated contact with the tanning
liquor, leather is formed  more  rapidly
and expeditiously, and of a better quality.  But no important improvement
in any manufacturing business can
come into general use without the cooperation   of   energetic  business  men
engaged in it.
In this age of improvements it. cannot
tannery is a dam, built across the river, 30 feet high, by
the Schuylkill Navigation Company, for the use of their
canal. A little above the dam is a race, made for the purpose of supplying the factory with water, affording a very
extensive power to turn the different machinery or works
in the tannery; and also a tail-race or waste-way, ior carrying the waste water from the factory into the river. On
the opposite side of the river from the tannery, between
the river and Clinton Village, is a canal, or the Schuylkill
Navigation; and between the canal and the village is seen




212;                 REMARKS
possibly be considered a fixed fact that
everything has arrived  at its "manifest
destiny"  of perfection.   There  is room
for improvements in every branch of
manufacturing business. As to the art
of tanning, I consider it yet in its
infancy.
The only way to progress is to make
efforts to improve; and the failure  of a
thousand, plans should never be held up
as a bugbear, or a barrier to arrest the
introduction  and  trial  of  a  new   and
reasonable process to improve any art.
It is my opinion that improvements will
on the engraving the Reading Railroad, running from
Philadelphia to Reading and Pottsville. The railroad
depot is also represented by the engraving, which is one
mile from the tannery.
This large leather factory; referred to in the illustration,
was constructed upon my improved plan, and produces
double the amount of tanned leather in one year than any
other tannery in the State iof the same size and expense.
This factory is tanning about 15,000 sides a year, besides
a great number of small skins. At the Clinton Tannery




ON TANNING.                 213
yet be made in the manufacture of
leather of such a character as will
reduce its manufacturing cost at least
one-half.
After several years' experimenting  in
the tanning  of leather, and in  trying to
facilitate and expedite the process of
manufacturing it,-I was very successful.
However, experimenting with a variety
of materials is very tedious, laborious,
and expensive. In a pursuit of this kind
the patience of Job is often required.
Attempts at improvement, perseveringly
repeated, will in the end seldom  fail.
the greatest strength of liquors used for handling, as indicated by Pike's barkometer, is 13 degrees; that employed
in laying away varies from 35 to 50 degrees. Much care
and judgment is necessary in proportioning the continually
increasing strength of the liquors to the requirements of
the leather in different stages of the process. A glance at
the illustration, and also at these notes, will at once convince any one that the advantages of such an establishment
can not be surpassed by any other in the States.












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CHAPTER XV.
THE MECHANIC'S TRUE POSITION.
IN passing through our land and observing the young, the eager, and the
intelligent who are destined hereafter to
fill high posts of trust and honor,-that
from these would come your princely
merchants, your aldermen, mayors, representatives, men of iron nerves, warm
hearts, and clear heads, ready to compete for the highest places in the pulpit,
at the bar, or on the forum, and even,
perhaps, the highest office in the gift of
a free people,-why may they not rank,




218          THE MECHANIC'S
by their industry, intelligence, and virtue, among those whom America will be
proud to number among her devoted
TRUE SON OF AMERICA.
and patriotic sons. Not for ourselves
alone is the grand law of Nature
inscribed on all the Creator's works,
not for ourselves alone, but for others,
does the sun dispense his beams, —not
for ourselves alone do the clouds distil
their showers nor the teeming earth
unlock her treasures! So, my brother
mechanics, it is not for ourselves alone,
but for others, and for all, that the




TRUE POSITION.        219
blessings of heaven are so plentifully
bestowed upon man.  All that any of
us can say is, that we are the almoners
of God's bounty, and that what constitutes the true wealth of this great
country-it is labor!  Fix it as you
will-let who will live upon our bread
and meat-still, labor lies at the foundation  of all, and, without it, neither
society nor civilization could exist. He
who derides labor, or undervalues it,
strikes  at the  order of Nature,  the
foundations of society-at civilization,
and at Christianity itself. Labor is the
very Gold -of Ophir-the true, intrinsic
wealth of a nation. The gold of eloquence or the silver of rhetoric I have
none, but such as I have give I unto
you.
1T




220         THE MECHANIC'S
THE FARMER PLOWING.
The hardy tillers of the soil are the
foundation, and our industrious, working
mechanics, the builders of our mighty
fabric of national wealth, independence,
and happiness. The laboring men and
mechanics of our country are the true
bone and sinew of the land —the mainspring and support of the machine of
government. They are, in truth, the
creators of a nation's wealth-the great
artificers of national prosperity. If'the
tyrant, Louis XIV., in the glory of
his most splendid reign, could utter, in
the pride of his borrowed royalty, the




TRUE POSITION.      221
sentence, "I am the State,":with how
much more truth can we, the working
men of the nation, say-and how much
more noble- and true does it sound when
we, the..people, say-" We are the
State?."  Where the- mechanics are
down-trodden  and  depressed-made
hewers of wood and drawers of water
to those who have robbed them of their
rights-there, such a monster as Louis,
and other crowned heads, might well
say, "' I am the State."  But let labor be
honored as it is here-let light be shed
upon the great depths of despotism as we
now see it beginning to beam in Europe-and you will see the people there,
as here, rising in their majesty and saying to their banished monarchs, "We
are the State."  Let there be no more
kings nor queens! The mechanic is not
only the architect and builder of his own
fortune, of society's and of a nation's




222         THE MECHANIC'S
prosperity, but his is one of the most
independent classes in the community.
The professional man depends upon his.
mental gifts or acquirements; and when
he fails to gain the popular favor, or, bysome sudden change, loses it, he is put to
desperate shifts to earn a livelihood..
You have seen the crest-fallen lawyer, or
the proud statesman or politician, humbly suing for aid at the comfortable
fire-side of the mechanic. The skillful
artisan is an independent man; for, place
him in whatever part of the world you
may, he can always secure his bread,,
because he is capable of doing something
that is useful to his fellow-man. The
story of the two men cast away among
savages is an apt illustration. QOne was
a gentleman, the other a basket-maker;
the basket-maker was well treated because he could do something for himself;
but the savages, in their simplicity, could




TRUE POSITION.       223
not understand what a gentleman is,
and the basket-maker's handiwork saved
the poor gentleman from starving. In
the circles where true refinement never
dwells, you may hear the expression
sometimes used, as if in derision or commiseration, "0, he is only a working,
mechanic!"  It may seem strange, but
there are men, and women, too, who can
boast no other lineage themselves, and
who, when told of this poor man's misfortune, or that man's sudden fall, pass
over the matter with'the cold remark of,
"He is only a mechanic!" There are
more happy, prosperous, noble men
among the laboring mechanics of this,
our land, than in any other class of equal
numbers.  There was a certain man,
called Felix, in the Scriptures; his countrymen were a proud race, and hated the
laboring mechanic; but one of these
despised men-a tent-maker-made this
-17*




224         THE MECHANIC S
same Felix tremble, although only a mechanic. Noah was a shipwright; Solomon an architect; and those who built
the pyramids, and planned the ancient
cities, whose ruins all the historians,
philosophers, and learned men of modern times are yet unable fully to explain,-the great temples of the holy city
of Jerusalem, —the renowned structures.
of Tyre and Sidon, of Balbec and Persepolis, of Babylon and Palmyra, Thebes
and Memphis,-wondrous monuments- of
the East, whose magnificence no modern
art can excel,-who built them?  O, it
was only mechanics! And then, who was
the first mechanic? The great Author.
of our being, that first built the world;
and then, as the sublimity of mechanism,
He made us "fearfully and wonderfully."  Give your attention for a moment to the, impulse given to modern
improvement and the change wrought




TRUE POSITION.       225
upon the face of the whole world by
the invention of Faust, who gave light
and knowledge tq all mankind. To the
discoveries of Columbus, the science of
BENJAMI.X FRANKLIN SETTING TYPE.
Franklin, the ingenuity of Arkwright,
the genius of Fulton and of Whitney,mechanics all,-what does this- nation
owe?-what does the civilized world owe,
to these great men?  All the improvements that were ever made by all the
kings and  emperors, and by all the




226         THE MECHANIC'S
artists, poets, philosophers, and statesmen that ever lived, you may pile up in
one scale, and they are outweighed by
the discoveries of Faust, Fulton, and
Whitney; and yet these men earned
their bread by the sweat of their brow!
We have a right to be proud that
Franklin, and Fulton, and Whitney
were all countrymen of ours, although
only mechanics. Young as we are as a
nation, such is the free scope and tendency of our institutions, and the salubrity
of our glorious climate, to foster the full
energies of the mind and to produce the
whole man, that, in all the useful mechanic arts, we are outstripping' the
nations of the old world. In arts, and
in arms, and in every worldly pursuit of
man, our advancement stands unequaled
since the world began. You all have
duties to perform as citizens, neighbors,
members of the great community of




TRUE POSITION.     227
working and active men. Rome was
not built in a day; nor can anything
great or noble in human ingenuity be
accomplished without labor. It is the
boast of the workingman that he can do
what he says. The mechanics of our
country, active and intelligent as they
are, may proudly hold up their heads, as
a body, and say boldly to the politicians
and the orators of the day, " What you
promise we perform." While making
some observations on this glorious republic, destined to be the greatest in the
world, for evidences not only of what
mechanics can do, but what they have
done, go into your public edifices, your
exchanges, your temples devoted to the
worship of God, and your halls of education, and there you will see the handiwork of labor. Look into your banks,
your city councils, and then abroad into
your States, and the most successful, the




228         THE MECHANIC'S
most illustrious and'beloved, are the
ones who early learned the lesson of
labor and how to think for themselves;
they were always up to their business,
but never above it.
There are two great levers which sustain us, —the one is employment; the
other, the knowledge of how to regulate
and improve it. In other words, they
are the union of occupation and instruction. Nothing can give more satisfaction
to the mind than the enjoyment of the
necessaries and comforts of life flowing
from  the industry of him  who earns
them. This is the fruit of occupation;
and the improvements of society follow
in proportion as the occupied mind advances in proper cultivation. The absurd
idea, that labor is inconsistent with learning  or respectability, is one of the
errors of weak' minds, ignorant of the
nature of the ligaments which bind




TRUE POSITION.        229
society together. It is one of the follies
of antiquated fashion which is passing
away; and we are now  beginning' to
consider the mechanic trades, and all
branches of honest industry, as the coordinate  and  necessary  associates of
education, integrity and manliness. The
history of the social operations of mankind teaches us that, in all periods of
time, they have altered the destinies of
individuals as well as of nations, and
have had their influence upon ages to
come. The physical industry of man is
certainly a high quality; but, vigorous
as it is, it gains so much by its association with a cultivated intellect, that
while the one, when alone, resembles the
rough materials of handicraft, and the
other the latent genius that is to fashion
them, they, both united, represent the
perfection of skill and its fruitful application to the production of human hap



230         THE MECHANIC'S
piness. In former days, trades were
merely physical; none of the sciences,
and but few branches of the fine arts
enteied into their action. True, there
were some few exceptions, dependent
upon individual condition and scholarship; but, generally, labor in any calling
was strictly and exclusively mechanical.
There is now, however, a progressive
spirit which   belongs to the  times.
ZWhether it has resulted from the institutions of this country-which, by casting off the trammels of political tyranny,
and by the abundance of our land for
an easy support, have enabled -men to
think more freely and consistently with
the object of their creation and position-or is a part of a pervading principle which the Divine Being has permitted
to spread through the world, is a problem for solution. Be this as it may, we
see that there is evidently an advance in




TRUE POSITION.        231
the different trades and their branches,,a more intimate relationship between
mind and the labors of the operator, a
clearer working through the lights of
reason, so that, even among the inferior
callings, the lamp of science sheds its
rays, even if it is seen only in flickerings
from the distance at which it stands. It
has been said that all men have their
mental affinities; that some pass unheeded away, without having left any
"footprints in the sand of time," only
because the period of their sojourning
presented no occasions, no elective influence to draw out their energies or their
talents, while the great are but the
creatures of opportunity, or who, having
been touched by the Ithuriel wand, have
sprung out into light, brightness, and
renown.  Opportunity  is certainly  a
great ingredient in any effort; and without it, either offered or acquired, no
18




232         THE MECHANIC'S
voluntary act can well succeed.' The
tanner should have a thorough knowledge of chemistry; and, by applying his
acquired knowledge to the branch of
industry which has engaged his special
attention, he makes a good leather
manufacturer and becomes a wellinstructed man in the general business
of life. The characteristic traits of a
man are also elements of his future; but
still it should add to the credit of the
individual, who, cultivating an understanding of his nature and his latent
abilities, uses them to advantage in that
" tide in the affairs of men, which, taken
at the flood, leads on to fortune." The
time was, and in some degree still is,
when reputation in honors was principally founded upon, and esteemed for,
distinction in literature, the fine arts, the
emblazonments of wealth, and the positions which they respectively gave. The




TRUE POSITION.     233
rest, like hewers of wood and drawers
of water wio served at the building of
Solomon's temple, were supposed to be
sufficiently compensated by the daily
penny paid for their labors. No mark
or memorial was left upon the edifice of
their works; and, except in the narrow
circle of their industry, none knew of
their labors or their zeal. In the general operations of the society of the
good and hardy tanners, it is not to be
expected that the mere ordinary components of that great whole shall be
held in any special remembrance, either
in the present or the future. Much will
be,- as has already been, done by the
agency of those very qualities in placing
honorable occupation of labor upon the
true level of its merits. Tanner, pause,
and accompany me, for a moment, to
what has already been observed relative




234.       THE MECHANIC'S
to labor and industry.;.mark out the
way, and forget not to follow it.
The end crowns the work, and so have
the good results of labor left a crown
upon the name more endearing to the
good man than all the pomp and circumstance that power, alone, or wealth
could purchase. The days of chivalry
arising from the power of kings and
nobles, the empires of war and victories, crusades of faith, and the necessary
maintenance of the followers of such
errantries, as well while they lasted as
in "the cankers of a long peace," were
the beginnings of the false distinctions
which made idleness honorable and left
industry with only the reward of its own
products. It takes time to accomplish
any revolution which shall be of permanent benefit; and it is proper it should
be so, as improvements are worked out
in the progress of experience which




TRUE POSITION.:235
could not be made in a leap from one
condition to another. The doctrine of a
necessity for useful occupation in all men
is a great element in this change. Men
do not begin to think calmly or wisely
in the turmoil of exciting pursuits.  It
is only when: they are falling into their
proper places in the great community,
and putting theiy shoulder to the wheel
*to do something useful, that they perceive their relative positions, their obligations, and the duties which belong to
them as integrants of the whole. It is,
therefore, industry which is the groundwork of reform, both moral and political; it is the basis of domestic virtue,
comfort, and plenty; and the producer
of what sustains a nation and improves
its condition.  When to this-is added
education,- its followers are the supporters of man in all his conditions, wants,




236         THE MECHANIC'S
advances, and elegancies of life, and are
the safeguards of society.
These reflections arise spontaneously
from the nature of the subject we are
discussing, as being intimately connected
with the career of the good man, reclaiming or saving from time what would
otherwise be lost. If it be creditable to
perpetuate the knowledge of the deeds
of man in arms of wars that have desolated the earth and left misery and sighs
to be felt again in after ages by those
who deprecate and sympathize while
they read-how much more worthy an,effort is it to record in imperishable
form the good civic conduct of those
unpretending men who have labored
during. their lives for the common weal,
and, who make, in every field, two
blades of grass grow where only one
grew before?




TRUE POSITION,.23T
In the world's broad field of battleIn the bivouac of lifeBe not like the driven cattle;
Be a hero in the strife!
Lives of great men all remind us,
We can make our own sublimne,
And, departing, leave behind us
Footsteps in the sand of time.
Let us, then, be up and doing,
With a heart for any fate;
Still achieving, still pursuing,
Learn to labor and to wait.
It belongs to' you, my brother mechanic, to rise in the world,  You who
are willing to be advised by those who
have experience, consult the wise and
good and profit by their examples.  If
you would succeed in life, let your motto
be not only to look ahead, but go ahead.
Set your mark high, and strive to reach




238        THE MECHANIC'S
it. You can succeed if you will remember, my friends, the almost omnipotent
power of perseverance, the power of
industry and of labor-you who are just
beginning the world-that fourteen or
sixteen hours a day are sure to foot a
good account and seldom  need  an
indorser. "Order is heaven's first law,"
and the Scripture tells us to'" Let everything be done decently and in order."
The man of method is generally a successful man. The neglect of this great
principle has ruined its tens of thousands.
An excellent rule is, Let nothing be neglected that can be done to-day. Whatever you undertake, pursue it steadily if
you wish to succeed; for wherever there
is a will there is a way; then forget not
the advice of the wise man, "And
with all thy getting get understanding."
Bear in mind that the laboring mechanic
should educate his head, his hands, and




TRUE POSITION.        239
his heart.  He will thus learn to distinguish good from evil, to know how to
supply his wants and add to his comforts, and how to dispense blessings to
all around him.












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CHAPTER XVI.
THE TANNERS' CHEER.
AWARD of cheer to the hearty tanner,
And a blessing on his trade;
A leather bough shall be his banner,
Over all the land displayed.
Amid the forest-giant's winding,
While far away the hunter's coil
Round the'wild bull's neck is binding,
He marks the noblest for his spoil.
Work on, ye Pitmen all!
And let the hide be sound
Work on! joy to the land
Where working-men abounn




244          THE TANNERS' CHEER.
His labor gives the world protection
In an ever changing form,
From the summer sun's reflection
And the winter's raging storm.
It guards the tread of the sturdy yeoman,
And guides his plow-horse over the mead;
It adorns the lovely foot of woman,
And reins the patriot's battle steed.
Work on, ye Curriers all!
And let the beam resound;
Work on! joy to the land
Where working-men abound!
The wit and lore of bygone ages,
His labor saves from swift decay.;
It guards the Bible's holy pages,
And grasps the follies of the day.
It aids the loom's bright imitation
By- turning every busy wheel;
It bears the stream to stay the conflagration,
And sheathes the warrior's flashing steel.




THE TANNERS' CHEER.            245
Work on, ye Tanners all!
And let the. song go round;
Work. on! joy to the land
Where working-men abound!
See illustration in front of this chapter, representing a
party of Tanners singing the above words.












pill
FRONT VIEW OF TIHE UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE, XWVASHIINGTON, D. C.




CHAPTER XVII.
COPY OF PATENT, GRANTED APRIL 14, 1857.
THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE LETTiERS PATENT
SHALL COME:'
WHEREAS, David H. Kennedy, of New
Alexandria, Pennsylvania, has alleged
that he has invented a new and useful
composition for tanning hides, which he
states has not been known or used before
his application; has made oath that he is
a citizen'of the United States; that he
does verily believe that he is the original
and first inventor or discoverer of the




250            COPY OF
said composition, and that the same hath
not, to the best of his knowledge and
belief, been previously known or used,
has paid into the treasury of the UNITED
STATES the sum of thirty dollars, and
presented a petition to the CoMMIssIONER
OF PATENTS, signifying a desire of obtaining an exclusive property in the said
composition, and praying that a patent
may be granted for that purpose,THESE ARE, THEREFORE, to grant,
according to law, to the said David H.
Kennedy, his heirs, administrators, or
assigns, for the term of fourteen years,
from the fourteenth day of April, one
thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven,
the full and exclusive right and liberty
of making, constructing, using, and
vending to others to be used, the said
composition, a description whereof is
given in the words of the said Kennedy,
in the schedule hereunto annexed, and is
made a part of these presents.




PATENT GRANTED.      251
In testimony whereof, I have caused
these letters to be made patent, and the
seal of the PATENT OFFICE has been
hereunto  affixed.  GIVEN  under my
hand, at the city of Washington, this
fourteenth day of April, in the year of
our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and fifty-seven, and of the INDEPENDENCE
of the United States of America the
eighty-first.
JACOB THOMPSON,
Secretary of the Interior.
[L. S.]       S. T. SHUGERT,
Asst. Comm'r of Patents.
Countersigned, and sealed with the
seal of the Patent Office.








CHAPTER XVIII.
COPY OF SPECIFICATION OF PATENT.
THE SCHEDULE REFERRED TO: IN THESE
LETTERS PATENT, AND MAKING PART
OF THE SAME.
To all to whom these presents shall come:
BE it known that I, David H. Kennedy, formerly of Reading, in the county
of Berks, but now of New Alexandria,
in the county of Westmoreland, and
State of Pennsylvania, have invented or
discovered certain' new and useful compositions of matter to be used in the
tanning of leather; and the following is




254           COPY OF
a full, clear, and exact description of
the manner of preparing and using the
same:
This composition consists of.........
pounds of....... or of............
poundsof........ of....;.... pounds
of..... of....... or  of....... pound of....     of......;... pounds of....... (......... of....);... pound of..... or..........;
These ingredients should be dissolved
separately in hot water, or in a hot
decoction of tan bark, which is preferable, and then poured into a tank, and
thoroughly stirred together to form the
tanning liquor, which may be drawn off
as required, to supply the vats or vessels
in which the hides are to be tanned.
The tanning liquor-thus formed in the
tank is in the most concentrated form,
and only suitable to apply to hides in
the advanced stages of the tanning pro



SPECIFICATION OF PATENT.  255
cess, and must be largely diluted with
water or bark-water before it is applied
to hides at the commencement of this
process; or else, before applying it to
such hides, it should be partially spent
by having had hides in a more advanced
state steeped in it.
The strength of the liquor should be
increased as the tanning progresses,care being taken to handle the hides frequently in the early part of the process,
while the liquor is weak; but less handling will do as the process advances.
Hides intended  for sole-leather may
(near the close of the process) be laid
down in a vat, alternately with layers of
ground bark, and then -a liquor, composed:of three parts of the composition
before mentioned and one part of strong
bark liquor, should be poured into the
vat until it covers the hides. Hides
thus laid down may continue undis



256          COPY OF
turbed until fully tanned-say from ten
to fifteen days. Light skins need not be
laid down, as they will be thoroughly
tanned by merely handling in the liquor.
Hides will be tanned by this process
quickly or slowly, according to the
amount of handling and the strength of
the tanning liquor. When a tan-yard
has become impregnated thoroughly
with the chemicals employed, the tanning will be performed with less expense
than at first, the quality of the leather
will be noticeably improved, and the
time required for tanning diminished.
When the before mentioned tanning
compound is employed with hemlock
bark, in the proportion of fifteen pounds
of the compound to about one hundred
and twenty-eight cubic feet of the bark,
the leather produced will have the color,
pliancy, and other desirable qualities of
the best oak-tanned leather. In this




SPECIFICATION OF PATENT.  257
way the expense of oak-tanned leather
will be greatly reduced, while the quality
will be fully maintained.
What I claim as my invention, and
desire to secure by LETTERS PATENT, is
the combination of., the........
of.of......or..
of......, and..    of...,....., or.....,, dissolved
in water or tan-bark liquor, for the purpose of tanning hides and skins substantially as herein set forth.
In testimony whereof I have hereunto
subscribed my name.
DAVID H. KENNEDY.
DAVID BEDFORD, itnesses.
JAMES B. DUNN  W esses.








INDEX.
PAGE;
Advantages of this Process...............                32
American Ox-hides.......................                 41
African Hides............................   45
African Skins.......................   61
Albumen, nature of......................   61
Buenos Ayres Hides...................                   38
Brazilian Hides.....................                    39
Bull-hides..............................   41
Beam-house............................        81
Bating.................................  91
Census —Tanning Interest in 1855........   22
Capitalists, Facts and Estimates for..........    28
Cow-hides.............................   40
Calcutta, or Nagore Hides.................   46
Calf-skins..............................    48
Chemistry Defined.......................   97
Clinton Tannery...................  195
20




260                   INDEX.
PAGE.
Copy of Patent...................... 249
Copy of Specification...................  253
Depilation, Rationale of...................... 15
Domestic or Slaughtered Hides............   44
Deer-skins..............................  54
Epidermis......................  62
Example of Tanning One Hundred Calf-skins, 121
Example of Tanning Ox-hides for Patent
Leather...........................133
Example of Tanning Sole-leather.......... 149
France  Its Trade in Leather...............  19
Fibrine, Nature of........................  62
Goat-skins..............................  51
Gelatine, Mulder's View of................  65
Grained Leather..#....................... 178
Hair, Primitive Mode of Removing......... 15
Hides Suitable for Tanning, 35-Buenos Ayres,
38 —Brazilian, 39 —Large Ox, 40-Bull, 41
-From   Diseased Carcass, 43-Frauds in
Sale of, 43-Domestic Slaughtered, 44California, 44-Spanish and African, 45Nagore, 46-Yearlings, 45-Horse, 51Mode of Salting, 55 —Washing and Soaking, 69




INDEX.                261
PAGE.
Ingredients Used in Tanning, 95-Properties
and Prices of............................ 99
Lime, Use of, in Tanning, 15-Its Effects on
Hides, 8'7-Its Antiseptic Properties......  88
Liquor for Coloring and Graining........... 122
Leather, Statistics of, 22-Egyptian Workers
of, 14-Steps in Manufacture of, 14-Currying and Finishing of, 167-Shaving, 168
-Harness, 176-Blacked  Bridle, 177Russet Bridle, 178-Horse, 178-Wax, 178
— Grained, 178-Patent, 179 —Texture and
Quality of, 18-5-Bloomed, 190-Examination of, 192 —Its Antiquity, 206-Manufacture  of...............................   207
Madagascar Hides........................ 45
Mechanics, True Position of.........    217
Method, One Year's Work by Old, 28-By
New, 29 —Advantages of New, 32-Saving
by New..........................  32
Nagore Ox.............................  46
Ox-hides for Patent Leather............... 133
Patent Leather, Hides Used for............ 44




262                   INDEX.
PA6TW.
Sir Humphrey Davy and Others, Investigations   of..............................      16
Skins, Calf, 48-Goat, 51-Sheep, 52 —Deer,
54-Composition of, 59 —African, 61 —Liquor for Coloring and Graining........... 122
Spanish Hides..........................  45
Salting Hides.........................   55
Splitting-machine........................ 141
Tannery, Clinton..................... 195
Tannin, Mulder's Opinion of, 65-Affinity with
Gluten.........................   66
Tanning, Antiquity of, 14 —How  Effected, 17
-Advantages of Patent Process of, 26-Ingredients Used in, 95-Composition for, 109
-Composition No. 2................... 110
Unhairing, Composition  for, 81-Drawbacks
on the Old Plan, 87-Remarks on........       195
Work by Old Method, 28-By New........  29
Water, the Influence of its Quality in Tanning,
75-,Rain the Purest....................  77
Yearlings, Hides of Neat..................  45