I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ *~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I. - NOW II I I I tc, Fiji!! Allen, alkali M ig A RESIDENCE OF TWENTY-ONE YEARS IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS; OR THE 4 lj -, 7 "7 CIVIL, RELIGIOUS, AND POLITICAL HISTORY OF THOSE ISLANDS: COMPRISING A PARTICULAR VIEW OF TIE MISSIONARY OPERATIONS CONNECTED WITH THE INTRODUCTION AND PROGRESS OF CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION AMONG THEa HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. BY HIRAM BINGHAM, A.M., MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN ORIENTAL SOCIETY, AND LATE MISSIONARY OF THE AMERICAN BOARD. SECOND EDITION. HARTFORD: HEZEKIAH HUNTINGTON. NEW YORK: SHERMAN CONVERSE. 1848. 7>) '111 1"" 11" Entered according to Act of Congress, by HIRAM BINGHAM, in the year 1847, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. DEDICATION. TO THE HONORABLE T1je nmeriran Boarb of Commissioners for oreign ~tlisions, ITS OFFICERS AND MEMBERS, CORPORATE AND HONORARY, AND ITS NUMEROUS AND GENEROUS SUPPORTERS7 THIS RECORD OF ONE OF THEIR ACHIEVEMENTS IN RESCUING HEATHEN NATIONS, PREPARED BY ONE, WHO, FOR A QUARTER OF A CENTURY, HAS HAD THE HAPPINESS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THEIR SERVICE, IS GRATEFULLY AND RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY THE AUTHOR. k~ — West fromn ' W.. I ton 47'.Aama... ddl IAainiafc Ia, ai '-tae I* I\ aIr.,a R,;... L%, Mahb -icaLuta, 4t ad,^,.f MaIm A N 7. K lia! t~cv i~ P'. oOlaa c:er of NA NDS I La TE4ngravecL accompa ny iiranBhigh History. -A ~N Ily kxeala etonicawt PREFACE. WITHIN the last half century, public attention has been attracted to the isles of the Pacific as a field of Christian missions and commercial enterprise; and the power of the Gospel has been tried on several branches of the Polynesian family. The introduction and progress of Christianity and civilization at the Sandwich Islands, viewed in connexion with their original state, present condition, and prospects, have become a matter of interest to many who desire to see a connected account of the efforts to raise that people from their degradation and barbarism, and convert them from their idols, their cruel superstitions, and their unbridled lusts. Such a narrative I have been requested to give by those in whose judgment I confide, and with whom I have, for a quarter of a century, been specially connected. Various parts of the History of the Sandwich Islands have been offered to the world in the publications of the American Board, and of several able writers, who have had a short acquaintance with that group-.the Rev. Messrs. C. S. Stewart, Wm. Ellis, and S. Dibble; J. J. Jarves, and Charles Wilkes,.Esqs., and others. But having a more perfect acquaintance with the main facts from the first attempt to rear on those shores the standard of the King of nations, "it seemed good to me also to set forth in order a declaration of those things ' which came under my own observation, and those '" which have been delivered to us by eye-witnesses," or have become matters of history. ' Of making many books," the reading public desires '" no end," and though long accustomed to speak, write, and preach, and sometimes to think, in a foreign heathen tongue which had become familiar, I have labored to add a volume in plain English, illustrative of the character, condition, language, customs, religion, government, and pursuits of the Hawaiian people, the struggles through which they have passed, and the changes which have been wrought there by the Divine agency. Following, in the main, the order of events which Divine Providence arranged, I have given briefly, in the first Chapter, an account of the people, for an indefinite period previous to the PREFACE. discovery of the Islands by Captain Cook; and in the second, their history during the subsequent forty years; and in the third, a record of preparatory measures for introducing Christianity among them, with which the reader may, if he choose, commence the narrative. Thence onward, in twenty-two successive chapters, the history of the mission and the history of the nation are interwoven, or run parallel, for ' Twenty-One years; and in the twenty-sixth chapter, for five years further, to the beginning of 1846. I have aimed to introduce to my readers the Hawaiian people and their country, with its mountain, valley, and volcanic scenery; their rulers, teachers, friends, and opposers; their habitations, schools, churches, revivals, etc., as they appeared to myself, and to show the footprints of the nation's progress in their uphill efforts to rise amid conflicting influences. To this end, within the free outline of a 'RESIDENCE,' are incorporated such events and sketches of character from personal acquaintance, and that others may speak for themselves, such documents and extracts (sometimes without a reference) from the archives and publications of the American Board, the mission, and the native government, and other sources, as the object and unity of the work, the clearness of the narrative, and the limits of a convenient and reasonable volume would admit, and as many, too, as seemed to be required to make the volume entertaining and valuable to the rising generation, the mature Christian, the candidate for missionary toil, the teacher of religion, and the philanthropic statesman or philosopher, who would appreciate the application of the means of elevating nations, and removing barbarism, intemperance, oppression, and idolatry from the world. To render the work the more deserving of confidence, I have availed myself of the valued criticisms and modifications suggested by the Rev. David Greene, one of the Secretaries of the American Board, to whom with others, not excepting one familiar with the prominent scenes and events described, I am greatly indebted, and through whose aid, the pleasure and advantage of the courteous reader will doubtless be promoted, the labor of preparing it more certainly rewarded, and the notes of praise to divine grace, which it is intended to multiply, be made richer and higher. Jew York, June 7th, 1847. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ORIGINAL STATE OF THE NATION. Page Tradition uncertain-Origin of the Hawaiian race and of their tabus-Character of their religion —Relation to other tribes-Prediction of a new religionParentage and childhood of Kaahumanu-Discovery by Capt. Cook-War of Kalaniopuu and Kahekili-Deification and death of Capt. Cook....... 17 CHAPTER II. WARS AND REIGN OF KAMEHAMEHA.-1780-1819. Death of Kalaniopuu-War with Kiwalao-Attack on the South of HawaiiInvasion of Madi-Strife of Keawemauhili-Keoua's invasion of the North of Hawaii-Early visits of Portlock, La Perouse, and Mears-Metcalf's revenge-Capture of the Fair American-Vancouver's visit-Assassination of Hergest-Cession of Hawaii-Death of the king of Maui-Defeat of Kaeo-Treacherous destruction of Browne-Conquest of Maui, Molokai, and Oahu-Insurrection on Hawaii-State of the nation-Tenure of land-Sandal-wood trade-Alliance with Kauai-Helpless moral condition........... 3( CHAPTER III. PREPARATORY MEASURES FOR PLANTING A CHRISTIAN MISSION AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.-1809-1819. Origin of the mission-Foreign mission school-Death of the first Hawaiian convert-Ordination of missionaries-Appointment of assistant missionaries -Mission church-Lay laborers-Missionary and Christian vows-Instructions-Embarkation of the pioneer missionaries-Voyage round Cape Horn -First appearance of Hawaii and its inhabitants-"Death and obsequies of Kamehameha-Succession of Liholiho-Position of Kaahumanu-Infraction of the ancient tabu-Suspension of the public sacrifices-Rebellion and vanquishment of Kekuaokalani-Causes of the innovation................ 57 CHAPTER IV. FIRST YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND SECOND OF LIHOLIHO.-1820. Missionaries' first intercourse with the natives-Visit of chiefs to the brig by double canoe-Deserted temple at Kawaihae-Sermon-Arrival at KailuaVillagers-Visit and proposals to the king-Royal family-High priestVisit of royal family on board-Admission of the mission —Debarkation of Mr. T. and Dr. H.-Arrival at Oahu-Description of Honolulu and adjacent country-Governor Boki —Intemperance-Debarkation and location of missionaries-First Sabbath on shore at Oahu-Visit of Messrs. Whitney and Rtuggles to Kauai-Reception of George by his father-Settlement of the mission there.8................................................ 81 CONTENTS. Page CHAPTER V. FIRST YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND SECOND OF LHOLILHO-CONTINUED.-1820. Instruction commenced with difficulty-First sermon to the king-Hopu's father -First school at Honolulu-Claims for the use of the needle-Objections to the mission-Boki and his partizans-Co-operation of foreigners in aid of the school-Boki's stammering teacher-Ejection of Aliens-Kaumualii and his school —Examination of the school at Honolulu-First houses of the mission at Honolulu-Hawaiian style of building-Correspondence with Governor Reickord-Grateful notice in the United States of the reception of the mission. 101 CHAPTER VI. SECOND YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND THIRD OF LIHOLIHO.-1821. Hawaiian Hula —Removal of the royal family-Insolent priest-Suspension of the Kailua station-The king's visit to Honolulu-Death of Likelike-Wailing and amusement-The Alpine pass of Nuuanu-Palikoolau-Arrival of the royal family at Honolulu-Commodore Vascelieff-Docility of the king of Kauai —First church edifice in the islands-Visit of whale ships-Voyage to Tahiti proposed by Kaumualii-Sporting in the surf-Liholiho's voyage and visit to Kauai-Liliha's canoe voyage-Political transaction between the two kings-Crossing Kauai mountains-Encampment of the kingsHanalei-Fire Pali —Singular mode of fishing-Waimea schools-Removal of Kaumualii to Oahu-Prayer of a native youth-The inquirer and the manslayer-Union of Kaumualii and Kaahumanu-The queen's dangerous illness-Visit of a Russian Exploring Squadron................... 123 CHAPTER VII. THIRD YEAR OF THE MISSION> AND FOURTH OF LIHOLIHO. —1822. Commencement of writing and printing in the Hawaiian language-Hawaiian orthography and pronunciation-First Hawaiian epistolary correspondenceIllness of the two kings-Visit of the English missionary deputation-A warrior of Pomare-Chiefs' tour through the windward islands-Burning the hidden idols-Seriousness and early efforts of Cox-School at the king's residence-Enlisting Kaahumanu as a pupil and hearer —Introduction of Christian marriage-Letter from China-Liholiho at school-Incipient steps towards civilized habits-First lessons in astronomy-Kaahumanu's first visit to Kauai —Early letters-William Beals................................. 152 CHAPTER VIII. FOURTH YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND FIFTH OF LIHOLIHO.-1823. Nominal Christianity of twenty-four chiefs-Heathen rites renewed-Introduction of Christian funerals-Visit of the royal family at Puuloa-Deity of the shark-Royal recognition of the Sabbath-Dressing food for the SabbathThe king's procrastination-His rum-bottle-Arrival and reception of Mr. Ellis-Clerical association-License of Mr. Whitney-Sickness and seriousness of Keopuolani-National festival-First reinforcement of the mission from the U. S.-Embarkation at New Haven-Arrival and reception-Survey of Hawaii-Introduction of the Gospel at Maui-Visit of the high chiefs at Lahaina-Erection and dedication of the first church on Maui-Last sickness and departure of Keopuolani-Efforts and influence of the liberalsResuming the station at Kailua-Adams and his first church-Efforts of Kapiolani, Naihe, and Kamakau, to hear the Gospel-Departure of the king and his suite for England-Kamamalu's farewell.................... 174 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. FIFTH YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND FIRST OF KAAHUMANU'S REGENCY. —1824. Introduction of the Gospel at Hilo and Puna-Church at Kaawaloa-New station where Cook fell-Reform meeting at Honolulu-The queen as a pupil at a school examination-Substitute for heathen sports-Excursion to Kauai -Parting with Kaumualii-Description of Waimea, Kaumualii's homeHanapepe-Ancient sport of Hoolua-Efforts to recover the Cleopatra's Barge-Death and character of Kaumualii-Burning and replacing the first church-Kalanimoku's stone house-Interment of Kaumualii-Kaahumanu at Lahaina-Silencing the pretended prophetess of Pele-Appointment oi Kahalaia as Governor of Kauai-Solar eclipse-Disaffection of George P. T.-Kaumualii's birth place-Falls of Wailua-Kalanimoku's visit to Kauai-His reception at Waimea-Insurrection-The missionaries' exposure and escape-George's singular manifesto-Reinforcement-Victory-Capture of George-Letter of Laanui-Kaahumanu's fast, attention to preaching, and visit to Kauai-Kalanimoku's letters from Niihau-Kaikioewa made Governor of Kauai-Return of the warriors-Reception of a prisoner, and of the victors at Honolulu.......................................... 206 CHAPTER X. SIXTH YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND SECOND OF KAAHUMANU)S REGENCY.-1825. Promising New Year —Establishment of female associations for prayer and improvement-Kalanimoku's return from his victory on Kauai-Kaahumanu's letters, return to her residence at Honolulu, and hopeful conversionPresence of the Spirit-Namahana and the shipwreck-Association of men formed for Christian improvement-Religious interest at Lahaina-Bartimeus Puaaiki- Progress at Hawaii-Kapiolani versus Pele-Her visit to Kilauea and Hilo-Paucity of means for educating the nation-Result of the king's visit to England-Return of the survivors-Visit of Lord Byron -Kaahumanu and others candidates for Christian ordinances-Terms of Christian fellowship-National council-Lord Byron's hints on government -Kaahumanu's visit to Hilo-Demand for missionary aid-Departure of Mr. Stewart-Outrage at Lahaina-A foreign offender reproved-Early admission of high chiefs to the church —Non-confederacy of " Churclh and Slate "-Decalogue-Council..............2...................4............. 246 CHAPTER XI. SEVENTH YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND THIRD OF KAAHUMANU.1826. Arrival of the U. S. schooner Dolphin-Mutiny of the Globe-Wreck of the London, Capt. Edwards-Kaahumanu's report of the course of Lieut. Percival-Outrage at Honolulu during the visit of the Dolphin-The commander's circular-Notice taken in the U. S. of this riot-Mr. Bishop's tour round Hawaii-Gov. Kaikioewa's tour round Kauai-Kaahumanu's tour round Oahu-Meeting at Waimea, Oahu-The Regent's visit to LahainaConvention of the mission at Kailua-Dedication of the largest church in the island-Ordination-Large assemblage at Kawaihae-Visit of the U. S. ship Peacock, Capt. Jones-Circular and investigation respecting the missionLetter in bad English ascribed to Boki.........2................. 83 X CONTENTS. Page CHAPTER XII. EIGHTH YEAR OF THE MISSION) AND FOURTH OF KAAHUMANU.1827. Position of Boki-Illness of Kalanimoku-His separation from Boki-His last visit to Lahaina-His death and character-Mr. Chamberlain's letter on the relative standing of Boki and Kaahumanu-Return of Messrs. Loomis and Blatcheley-Trip to Hawaii, and sojourn at Kuaheva-Arrival and rejection of Romish teachers-Outrage at L"haina by the crew of the John Palmer-Hoapili's despatch to the regent-Accusation and proposed trial of M r. Richards, and its results.......................................... 305 CHAPTER XIII. NINTH YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND FIFTH OF KAAHUMANU.1828. Letters from Kaahumanu and her sister to the American Board-Letter of Mr. Evarts to the young king —Arrival and reception of the second reinforcement of the mission-Captain Beechey's letters-State of the field at MauiDeath of Mrs. Bishop-Return of Mr. Ely-Sending away the children of missionaries-Exposure and escape of Messrs. Bishop and Ruggles....... 324 CHAPTER XIV. TENTH YEAR OF THE MISSION) AND SIXTH OF KAAHUMANU.1829. Great numbers attend to instruction-Religious interest in the region where Capt. Cook fell-State of Kauai five years after the insurrection-Early temperance measures of Kaahumanu and the Christian governors-Boki's tavern and sugar-house distillery-His insurrectionary movements-Erection and dedication of a large church at Honolulu-Fourth of July celebrationAccessions to the church at Oahu-Death of Lydia Namahana-Turbulence and memorial about a cow-Public edict respecting marriage, concubinage, equity, and traffic in ardent spirits-Visit of the U. S. ship Vincennes-A Sabbath at Hilo-Reception of Captain Finch at Honolulu-Despatches from the Government of the U. S.-Testimony of J. C. Jones, Esq. —The king's reply to the President —Debts of the government-Boki's embarrassment —:^ His fatal expedition to the South Seas-Hopeful conversion of Gov. Adams. S64 CHAPTER XV. ELEVENTH YEAR OF THE MISSION, AND SEVENTH OF KAAHUMANU. 1830. Associations for social worship and improvement-The former prevalence of infanticide-Issuing and reception of a book for children-Tour round Oahu -Waimea chosen as a new station-Louisa a Romish teacher-Tour through the windward islands-Accessions to the church at Lahaina-Arrival at Waimea-Splendid rainbow-Visit of the chiefs at Waimea-Excursion of the king and his party to Mauna Kea —Visit to the beautiful valley of Waipio -Sharks-Thunder storm-Visit to Hilo-View of Hawaii from Mokuola — The great volcano of Kilauea —Inland journey from Kilauea to Waimea, Hawaii —Kaahumanu's note from Hilo to the chiefs at Honolulu-Pulpit and congregation at Waimea-Journey in the interior from Waimea to the -head of Kealakekua Bay-Ancient temple in the wilderness-Arrival by