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PREFACE.
It Is hoped that this Guide will form the most complete, accurate and
reliable Guide, yet published, to the Mountain Region of New Hampshire.
Those before issued, have been rather guides to than through the Mountains, containing plentiful descriptions of places on the way, but scalty
accounts of views and interesting scenes, really the object of the visit.
Omissions and mistakes may, of course, occur. The editor is very solicitous to be favored with corrections of these, founded upon personal knowledge.  Travellers willing to make such communications are requested to
address them to the editor of the Guide Book, care of the Publisher.
The editor has been greatly assisted in the preparation of this book by
Rev. THOMAS STARR KING of Boston, Mr. DANIEL GOoDWIN, and Rev.
AUGUSTUS WOODBURY of Providence, who have each contributed largely
to its pages.
CONCOIRD, N. H., May 26th, 1858.
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I 
GUIDE.
NEW YORK TO WHITE MOUNTAINS.
From the city of New York,' the point of immediate departure for Southern, Western, and we may add, a large portion
of European travel into New England, seven distinct routes,
more or less direct, lead to the White Mountain region of New
Hampshire. Four of these, are laid through the city of Boston; one through the City of Worcester, Mass., and thence up
the valley of the Merrimac River; one through the cities of
New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield, up the valley of the
Connecticut River, by railroad to Littleton, within three hours
ride by stage-coach to Franconia  an  the seventh by way of
the Hudson River, by rail or boat, to Albany, thence to Rutland, and Bellows Falls, Vt., intersecting at the latter place
with the route up the Connecticut.
The general view is as follows:
1.  NEW YORK TO BOSTON, via Stonington and Providence,
on Long Island Sound by Steamboat to Stonington; thence to
Providence and Boston by rail, arriving at Boston at 5 o'clock,
A. M.
2. NEW YORK To0 BOSTON, via Newport and Fall River, on
Long Island Sound by Steamboat; from Fall River by rail,
arriving at Boston in season for the morning trains, North and
East. 
WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
3.  NEW YORK TO BOSTON, via New London and Norwich,
on Long Island Sound, by Steamboat to Allyn's Point; thence
by rail through Worcester, arriving at Boston, about 51, A.MI.
4.  NEW YORK TO BOSTON, by railroad, via New Haven,
Hartford, Springfield and Worcester. The cars leave New
York, morning and afternoon, arriving at Boston about 4, P. M.,
and midnight.
On reaching Boston, the tourist has his choice of the three
following routes:
(1.) BOSTON TO PORTLAND, over the Boston & Maine Railroad from Haymarket Square, passing through Andover and
Lawrence, Mass., Exeter and Dover, N.H.; or the Eastern
Railroad from Causeway Street, passing through Lynn, Salem
and Newburyport, Mass, and Portsmouth, N. H.   The two
roads unite at South Berwick, Me.  A  third route is by the
steamboats which leave the wharf at the foot of Milk street,
every evening and arrive at Portland early in the morning.
Arriving at Portland, in five hours from Boston, the traveller
can immediately leave, (after refreshment,) fo)r the "ALPINE,"
or "IGLEN" House, Gorhan), N. H., by the St. Lawrence &
Atlantic Railroad, thus reaching the Eastern side of the Moun tains the same day.  The time by this route, is from New York
to Boston, eleven hours; Boston to Portland, five hours; Port land to Gorham, four to five hours, or including detentions,
not far from twenty-four hours.  By takiong one of the Sound
boats in the afternoon, Gorham can be reached on the afternoon
of the next day, without hurry or unusual fatigue.
(2.) BOSTON TO DOVER, N. H., by Boston &  Maine Rail road; thence by Cocheco Railroad to Alton, N. H., at the
southern end of Lake Winnipesaukee; thence  by Steamer
DOvER, over the Lake to Wolf borough and Senter Harbor,
dining on board the boat, and reaching Senter Harbor in season
for a Stage Coach to Conway; thence to the Mountains by
stage the next morning.
2 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
(3.) BOSTON TO CONCORD, N. HI., by Boston & Maine, and
Concord, Manchester & Lawrence Railroads, Haymarket Square,
passing through Lawrence, Mass., and Manchester, N. H.
At the latter place, a train from Boston, via Lowell and Nash ua, over Lowell, (Causeway st.,) and Lowell & Nashua Rail roads, unites with this route, and both streams of travel pour
on together to Concord, N. HI. Here connections are made
with (a) the Northern Railroad, which connects at White River
Junction with the route up the Connecticut. Passengers by
this route reach Franconia, by way of Littleton, the same evening, at 9 o'clock. (b) The Montreal Railroad, by which passengers proceed to the Weirs' Station, Lake Winnipesaukee,
whence the Steamer LADY OF THE LAKE, conveys them to Senter
Harbor, in season for the afternoon stage to Conway. If the
tourist desires to reach Franconia on the same day he passes by
rail upon the same road, to Plymouth, N.H., where he stops to
dine, at BURNHAM'S famous PEMIGEWASSET HOUSE, and takes
the afternoon stage for the FLUME and PROFILE HOUSES, arriving at the latter about 9 o'clock, P. M., or he may go on to
Littleton and arrive at the same time as by the Northern Railroad. Leaving New York, in the afternoon, one could reach
Franconia or Conway, if he so desired, on the evening of the
next day.
5. NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H., by way of Norwich,
Worcester, and Nashua. The traveller reaches Worcester by
rail, through New-Haven, &c., or by boat and rail, through
Norwich. Connections are made directly with the Worcester
& Nashua Railroad, and he proceeds without detention, except
for refreshment, to Nashua, N. H. Here he takes the cars of
the Concord Railroad for Concord, N. H., and has the choice
of the routes enumerated above. The time required is the same
as that for the preceding route.
6. NEW YORK TO FRANCONIA by rail except the last twelve
miles from Littleton.   The traveller by this route leaves New
a 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
York by the New-York & New-HIaven Railroad, and proceeds
as far as Springfield, Mass., without change of cars. At this
place he takes the cars of the Connecticut River Railroad, passing through Northampton and Holyoke, and in sight of Mt.
Tom on the west side, and Mt. HIolyoke on the east side of thb
river, through Greenfield to South Vernon, Vt. From this
place, the Vermont Valley Railroad passes through Brattleborough to Bellows Falls. Thence the route proceeds by
Sullivan Railroad to Windsor, Vt.; thence by Vermont Central
Railroad to White River Junction, where the route by Nothern Railroad connects; thence by Passumpsie Railroad to
Wells River; thence by White Mountains Railroad to Littleton,
and thence by stage to Franconia.  This route, after leaving
Hartford, continues up the valley of the Connecticut, till it
reaches Wells River, and affords a view of the beautiful scenery,
which makes this valley a "garden of delight."  The time is
longer than by the other routes, as it requires two days to reach
Franconia, but no one will regret the prolongation of the pleasant journey.
7. NEW YORK TO FRANCONIA, via Albany, Rutland, and
Bellows Falls, Vt. Passengers leave New-York by Hudson
River Railroad, or by boat, reaching Troy in season for the
cars over the Rutland and Washington, or Western Vermont
Railroad to Rutland, where they remain over night; leaving
by early train the next morning, they reach Bellows Falls, in
time to connect with the trains north, to Windsor, White River
and Littleton, thus uniting at Bellows Falls, with the route just
named. The time is the same as by route No. 6. This is
without doubt the most beautiful and satisfactory of all the
routes proposed. Besides the magnificently varied scenery of
the Hudson, one enjoys to the highest degree the ride through
the mountain State of Vermont. Her hills are covered with
verdure to the very summits, and the little hamlets that nestle in
4 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
the valleys, are the abodes of comfort and happiness and virtue.
There is, too,
" A newer life in every gale,"
as the fresh mountain air, with its invigorating influence, brings
the roses to the cheeks, and vivifies the frame.
THE MOUNTAIN REGION.
After having given this preliminary view of the different
approaches to the White Mountains, we propose to give a par ticular view of the Mountain region. After this is completed,
we will give a more detailed account of the different routes
before mentioned We shall thus be enabled to give a greater
symmetry to the whole book than could be obtained by first
giving the routes to, and then throutyh the region to be visited.
As the various roads approach the mountains at different points
we shall also avoid much needless repetition. The size of the
book will thus be diminished while its convenience for consulta.
tion will be greatly increased.
We will commence, then, at Gorham, N. H., on the eastern
side of the Mountains.
GORHAM, N.H., is a thriving village which has been built
up on the banks of the Androscoggin by the business which the
Railroad and the Hotel have brought.   The Alpine House,
is one of the largest of the Hotels in the White Mountain
region.  It is the most substantially built of all.  Under the
ciarge of Mr.  HITCIICOCK it is admirably kept.  Passengers
are deposited from the cars directly in front of the House as
in the annexed picture. The main building is one hundred
1 4.1
6 
~~~ ~~            _____ _          _____
View of Alpine Hlouse, Gorham, N. H. 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
feet in front by fifty in width, and is three stories high.
There is an L of the same dimensions. The dining room is a
noble hall eighty feet by thirty.  The House can accommodate
between two and three hundred guests.
ThIe Alpine House is situated in a valley at the junction of
the Androscoggin and Peabody rivers. The valley is 800 feet
above the sea.  The breadth of it is so great that the air is
more dry, pure and bracing. than in the more narrow passes,
directly under the lofty summits, where many of the larger
public houses are placed. On this account, it has often been
found more grateful and propitious to invalids, who are advised
to try the mountain atmosphere.  There is a post office in the
Hotel. Mails are received every day from Montreal, and twice
a day by railroad from Boston and Portland. To the other
advantages must also be added a telegraph station connected
with the Alpine House. Communication is thus practicable, at
all times, with all parts of the United States and with Canada.
The scenery immediately around the Alpine House in the
Gorham village, when the proper points are sought for enjoying
it, is very'interesting.  It is the only spot from which the beauty
of the range of Moriah, Carter, and the Imp  can be seen to
advantage. Mt. Carter is about 5,000 feet in height. The
base from which it rises being mnuch lower than the level of the
Franconia Notch, the summit of Carter is really higher, as seen
from Gorham, than Mt. Lafayette, the highest of the Franconia
range, is from the lovely Echo Lake, near the Profile House.
And there are few more charming spectacles among the mountains than the heavy shadows that are tangled in the deep-cut
stairways of Mt. Carter, contrasted with the soft lights that lie
on its steep, unbroken forests, in a clear summer afternoon.
Mt. Moriah is some 200 feet lower than Mt. Carter, and is
remarkable for the rolling. billowy lines that flow from its dome
along its huge mass to the valley.  It is, perhaps, the most
graceful in its outline of any of the larger New Hampshire hills.
The true position from which to detect its beauty and appreciate
7 
View of Imp and Carter Mountains from Gorham. 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
its height, is at the bend of the Androscoggin, near "Lary's,"
about a mile above the Alpine House.  If the visiter will take
this walk just before a clear sunset, he will see the whole ridge
bathed in the richest purple - a sight that is one of the richest
rewards of a mountain journey. We regret that we have no
sketch of Mt. Moriah. We give however a view of a portion
of the range as seen from Gorham.
The lower mountain that stands between Moriah and Carter
is called the Imp. This name has been given to it from the
marked resemblance which the summit, seen from a certain
point, bears to a grotesque human countenance.   We  give a
drawing of the queer expression which the peak offers.
To get this view one must cross the Peabody river to the
westerly side, in the afternoon. Leave the road to the Glen
about two miles from the Glen House. Such a visit is a pleasant accompaniment to a ride from the Alpine House to the
Glen; or it can be made directly from the Glen House, by
those who are making their chief visit at that delightful spot.
The noble chain of hills to the north-west of the Alpine
House is known as the Pilot range. The lines they cut against
9 
WIIITE MIOUNTAIN GUIDE.
a clear and burning evening sky are very charming.  To the
east and south-east, Gorham is walled in by the stalwart and
brawny Androscoggin hills. The noblest of these is Mt. Hayes
directly behind the Alpine House.  Its name was  given in
honor of Mrs. Hayes who was once associated as landlady in
the management of the Hotel, and who is gratefully remembered
by all guests who became acquainted with her. The mountain
stands now the noblest external monument to her memory.
The first thing which travellers usually wish to know when
they arrive in Gorham, is the distance to Mt. Washington, and
the time and methods of making the ascent. Mt. Washington
is eight miles distant from the Railroad Station in Gorham.
Stages are in waiting at every train to convey passengers to the
Glen House, which is situated directly at its base. The ascent
of the mountain, however, may be made from either house. If
travellers are in a hurry to reach the Glen House, and prefer to
start from that.point, they ride in the stages eight miles to that
hotel, and take horses there. The landlord of the Alpine
House also keeps a stable of excellent mountain ponies near the
foot of Mt. Washington.  If travellers desire, therefore, they
can have a wagon from Gorham, be driven to the base of the
mountain, take ponies and guide there, make the ascent, and
stay at the Glen House when they descend, or ride back at once
to the Alpine House. The road is precisely the same, and the
expense the same, in whichever way the excursion is made. It
is well to know, however, that horses and guides are furnished
from Gorham as well as fromnthe Glen;   For it sometimes hap  pens that travellers arrive in Gorham by the eleven o'clock
forenoon train from Portland, who would like to make the ascent
of Mt. Washington that day, and return to Portland, or go on
to Montreal, the next morning. This is almost always practi  cable, and has often been done from Gorham. By taking a
wagon from the Alpine House, the base of Mt. Washington is
reached quicker than by stage; the ascent is made in the after
10 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
noon; and the conveyance is in waiting to return the passenger,
as soon as hle descends, to the Alpine HIouse again.
But if travellers are not in a great hurry, they should certainly make their plans to see the striking scenery that is offered
near the Alpine House. No point in the whole mountain region
presents more attractions within reach of a short and delightful
wagon drive, a pleasant horseback-ride up a bridle path, or a
tolerably easy mnountain-scramble.   The first of these excursions
to which we will call attention is that to
TIIE LEAD MIN.E BRIDGE.
The name is derived from an abandoned lead-mine about six
miles below Gorham, on the eastern bank of the Androscoggin,
in Shelburne.  The Bridge is about four miles from the Alpine
House.   The proper time to visit it is in the latter part of a
summer afternoon, when the golden light is on the meadows,
and the long shadows are falling athwart the mountains.   There
is no spot in the whole mountain region where the beauty of a
river is joined so charmingly to the majesty of the hills. No
river-view can be more fascinating than that of the noble Androscoggiu breaking around emerald islands with clean sandy
shores, and joining its parted currents again into one strong tide
just above the lbridge where one stands.  Anrd then a few miles
distant, enthroned over the narrow valley, as though the stream
flowed directly from their base, rises the heavy dome of 5It.
Washington, in company with the clear-cut exquisite pyramid
of Madison.
The height of the noblest mountains is never appreciated
by going close to their base, if they are foreshortened by ridges
intervening between the eye and the supreme summits.  The
Lead-mine Bridge is just far enough away from the White hills
to allow their height to make its true impression.  And whoever
sees Mt. Madison thus, in a clear afternoon. will recall the
impression it makes, as perhaps the loveliest picture which the
White Mountain journey leaves in the memory.   Three hours
11 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
from the Alpine House will give ample time for the excursion.
Teams and drivers are always in readiness for the accommoda
tion of guests.
Next among the privileges of Gorham we must speak of a
drive from the Alpine House to
RANDOLPII HILL.
This hill is on the road to the villages of Randolph and
Jefferson, and is about five miles from the hotel.  There is no
climbing to be done; the wagon is driven directly to the summit,
and the road is excellent. By this drive one is taken directly
to the northerly base of Madison and Jefferson.  He sees the
whole northerly wall of the Mt. Washington range from crest
to valley. The height is far greater than the wall of the Craw ford Notch. There is no point, where standing so near, any of
the White Mountains look so lofty and so grand. Certainly no
valley view can be g,ined of Mt. Washington that compares
with the grandeur of Jefferson from this position.  Only  a
suggestion of the sublimity of this view is given in the plate
which we introduce. The sense of height, the tremendous mass,
the grand masonry, the rich forest-verdure, the silence, the twin
outlines of the two mountains, and the symmetry of the grey
and blasted peaks that rise and face each other above the vast
wilderness that clothes their sides, combine to make an impression
on the eye and soul that years will not efface. A traveller
should not fail to take this view, if possible; and no discomfort
is connected with the excursion. An hour is sufficient for the
drive to Randolph  HIill from the Alpine House; and three
quarters of an hour for the return.
We must call attention, next, to
BERLIN FALLS.
Those who love water-views and cataract-scenery will say that
these Falls are the richest of all the attractions that invest Gorham. They are situated six miles from the Alpine House.
But the road that leads to them is excellent; the drive is taken
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
in an hour; and the scenery on the way, along the banks of
the Androscoggin, is continually noble, wild, and stimulating.
It is no rivulet or mountain cascade one visits at Berlin. The
whole Androscoggin, fed from a branch of Lake Umbagog, and
never low even in a drought, like the Upper Connecticut, pours
here down a rocky gateway. It is a long swift rapid, broken
here and there by a direct and powerful fall. In the course of
two miles the river descends more than two hundred feet. The
road winds directly by the river, and there is no hard clambering
or wet walking in the excursion.
View of Berlin Falls.
The first view as one alights from the wagon reveals the river
for a quarter of a mile flecked with little white caps at the
uppermost rapids, then plunging in a winding rush of foam,
then calmed again, and flowing with its ruffled caps towards
Gorham. After taking this general look, which is very fascinating, we must select points for observing the heavier pitches
of the river, and estimating the force of the cataract.  We  must
go down upon a jutting rock that faces the sweeping tide, and
see the last leap of the mad tide over a huge boulder, before it
14 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
settles into common rapids again; we must go up and stand on
the bridge that crosses the narrowest gully, and watch the foam
sweep underneath like a race-horse-the backwater from each
side overlaying the central current, so that it rushes in wedge
shape, or like an enormous flatiron, nose first, through the gorge;
especially must we go last above the bridge, and sit down upon
the rocks, to watch, at leisure, the first and deepest plunge of
the river.  Although the bridge is very near, one has no con ception, in looking from it, of the grandeur of this portion of
the fall. One can sit by it for an hour with increasing delight.
Visitors have said that it repaid for the cost and time of a visit
to the mountains, and that all the other scenery was extra.
The power of this part of the fall is so satisfactory, the quantity
of water so great, and the flood of foam that sweeps away from
it so full of life, that we have never been able to recall, while
sitting there, aught that surpasses it in the suggestion of power,
but the English fall at Niagara. We quote the declaration of a
prominent poet of New England, given with emphasis on the
spot once, in our hearing, when we say that it is better worth
visiting than the falls of St. Anthony.
There should be a small and well-kept public house at Berlin,
that visitors might have leisure, and the cool parts of the day,
and especially a fu'l-moonlight evening, for wandering around
the banks, and enjoying the rapids and plunges of the river.
A visit to the falls is easily made from the Alpine House
between breakfast and dinner, or in the afternoon before tea.
But one needs to go several times, as at Trenton, and also to
have leisure for studying the grand forms and summits of the
outer White Mountains, which tower with a symmetry that does
not disturb their solid and serious majesty, a little to the west.
In fact, the mountain panorama, visible from the road just above
the falls, is one of the most inspiring to be found within the
compass of the New Hampshire tour. But noontime is the
worst season for a visit to the cataract, on account of heat.   In
July or August, a cool day, or a cloudy one, would be best.
16 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
It would be among the richest joys of a September[visit to
Gorham, to give the heart of one of its clear bracing days to
an excursion along the Androseoggin -dining on the rocks
above the bridge; and, returning towards sunset, to face for the
most of the way, the great White Mountain range, stained with
a glorious brown light, and the range of Moriah and Carter,
lifting purple peaks and ridges against the blue southern sky.
But besides the attractions to be reached by wagon rides,
there are excursions to be made from the Alpine House, on
horseback or on foot, that must be spoken of.
THE ASCENT OF MT. MORIAH
is the first to be named. There is an excellent bridle-path to
the summit, and a large log cabin has been built there, for
partial protection against a squall or a thunder shower that might
overtake a party on the ridge. The mountain is just 4,700
feet in height. Most of the way the path is cut through the
fresh, rich wilderness.
What can be more delightful than a ride on a clever horse up
such-a mountain path? The air is so fresh and fragrant! The
sun chequers the mosses, and the pale, undecayed leaves of the
previous Autumn so charmingly with spots of light, that shifts
as the wind plays with the overhanging leaves! The crackling
of branches under the horse's hoofs has a cheery sound. Old
rocks, soft with moss, and dripping with moisture, tell you that
you are invading a sanctuary that had been sacred for centuries
from the foot of man.
Now and then, through the trees, a glimpse is gained of a
grand coliseum of pines on the steep and crescent sides of a
near mountain, from which a ravine separates you. Now and
then, you come upon some bare ledge or shoulder, from which
you look down the valley of the Androseoggin for miles, and
admire  the forethought  of nature in leaving this easy track
among these billowy ridges of land, for the Atlantic & St. Law rence road. Soon you plunge into the woods again, and are
16 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
borne up and up by the panting horse till the shrubs begin to
grow scanty, and suddenly you are on the desolate and jagged
peak. What a view! The face of nature seems to have been
torn by some mighty harrow.  The eye must travel far to the
southwest to rest upon any extent of level land. Northern
New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine, is a vast panorama of
solid surges. On the west, the distant view is barred by the
heavy forms of the great White Mountain range proper.
In this respect a visit to Mt. Moriah is more interesting than
to Mt. Washington; for here Mt. Washington is part of the
landscape. Its height and mass, and the grandeur of its fellow
peaks, can be relatively measured, as they cannot when one
stands on their ridges. The whole excursion can easily be made
in five hours;-two hours to ascend, a little less to return, and
about an hour on the summit.
But it may be that the traveller does not care to make an
ascent of a mountain so high as this, in addition to the ascent
of Mt. Washington, or instead of that ascent. We will call
attention, therefore, to
MOUNT SURPRISE,
and the charm of the prospect that is opened from it. This
mountain is directly in front of the Alpine House. It is in fact
one of the spurs of Mt. Moriah, and  is about 1,200 feet in
height.  The bridle-path to the top is not difficult at all in the
ascent. Good walkers can gain the crest without trouble in
an hour, and can return in half that time.  It is an easy and
charming horseback excursion for ladies. And the view which
the summit offers is different in character from any that we
recall in the mountain  region.  It suggests the marvellous
picture of the Notch seen from Mt. Willard. The height of
Mt. Surprise is about the same as that of Mt. Willard. And
it commands the great cleft between Mt. Carter and the White
Mountains, through which the Peabody river flows, as MAt. Willard commands the Notch and the infant Saco.
2*
17 
WH1ITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
The top of Mt. Surprise is worth visiting, apart from the view
it furnishes, for the savage revelation it offers of the ruin.which
fire and winds can work on the hills. Scores of great treetrunks, stripped, charred and half-consumed, are heaped and
twisted over an acre or two of the crest and side of the hill, in
impressive confusion. The whole scene is the hieroglyphic
autobiography, it may be, of the destructive partnership of July
lightning and January gale. The chief payment for the ascent,
however, is not this broad "charcoal sketch" of ravage, but the
sight, gained amid that dingy desolation, of the grandest portions of the White Mountain ridge. The highest summits of
the range rise directly against the eye. There is no intervening
ridge, or obstacle. You look down 1,200 feet to the bed of the
Peabody which is fed from the great range, and up along the
unbroken forests to the peak of Mt. Madison, the crest of Jef ferson that overtops it, and at the southwest of these, the summit
of Adams, and the mass of Mt. Washington. There is no
other eminence where one can get so near to these monarchs,
and receive such an impression of their sublimity, the vigor of
their outlines, their awful solitude, and the extent of the wilder ness which they bear up on their slopes. The scene is so wild
and glorious, and the cost of labor to gain it so slight, that it is
a pity any visitants of the eastern side of the mountains should
fail to add it to their treasures of memory.   And besides this
view of the great range, the outlook from Mt. Surprise over the
mountains of the North, and up the valley through which the
Androseoggin twists its way, is very grand.  On horseback
from the Alpine House, the whole jaunt can  be made in two
hours and a half, with ample time for the Summit.
We have already spoken of
MOUNT hAY ES,
which rises just behind the Alpine House, beyond the Andros  coggin. If there were a bridle-path to the top of this eminence,
it would soon be celebrated as affording the grandest landscape
i8 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
view of Madison, Jefferson, and Washington to be obtained in
New Hampshire. As it is, every man who visits Gorham and
who has a love of mountain scrambles, may well be urged to
obtain the services of Mr. Gordon, as guide, and scale Mt.
Hayes. About two hours from the base will be sufficient to
gain the top. The picture from the summit cannot be sufficiently
praised. The view of Jefferson, and Madison, sweeping from
the uplands of Randolph will never be forgotten. And Mt.
Washington shows no such height, or grandeur, when seen from
any other point.  Mt. Washington does not show its superior
height, or look grander in form than the associated peaks, from
any position in the valleys near Gorham and the Glen. But
from Mt. Hayes its supereminence and majesty are caught and
appreciated.  That summit seems to be the chair set by Prov idence at the right distance and angle to observe and enjoy its
majesty, its symmetry, and the proud grace with which its "airy
citadel" is sustained against the sky. And by way of dessert
to this substantial feast of mountain grandeur, a most charming
view of the curves of the Androscoggin for twenty miles, of its
exquisite islands, and of the meadows which it threads, is given
from Mt. Hayes.
There is another pedestrian excursion possible from Gorham,
of which we should not fail to speak. We mean, the
ASCENT OF MT. MADISON,
from the foot of Randolph Hill, and a visit to the northerly
ridge and summits of the WVhite Mountain group. To those
who love mountain climbing and the wildest scenery which the
hills can exhibit, no more tempting expedition than this can be
proposed.  Several parties made this excursion last year, some
times camping out in a ravine, or on the ridge.  Their reports
of the grandeur and magnificence of the views that rewarded
their toil are very inspiring.  A company of strong pedestrians,
starting from the Alpine House, Gorham, early in the morning,
and riding to the base of Mt. Madison, at the foot of Randolph
19 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Hill, could ascend Mt. Madison, pass over its sumtnit, around
or over the sharp pyramid of Jefferson, over Adams. between
the humps of Mt. Clay, and reach the house on the top of Mt.
Washington, before sunset.
Such a route would lie among and over the largest mountains
of the range. Between Madison and Jefferson, the party would
see the noblest outlines of rocky precipice and crest which the
whole range can furnish; for they would stand directly between
the steep pinnacles of those noble hills, that spring from the
ridge. They could climb to the sharp apex of Jefferson. They
would see the glorious picture of Washington that starts out in
crossing from Jefferson to Adams. The long easterly slope is
shown from its base in the Pinkham forests; the cone towers
sheer out of "The Gulf of Mexico;" and every rod of the
bridle-path is visible from the Ledge to the Summit House.
And the route brings into view all the great ravines of the
range, except "Tuckerman's."   One will see the long and
narrow gully between Madison and Jefferson, and the tremen
dous hollow of Jefferson itself on the north, which was
climbed for the first time in 1857, by a party formed by the
writer, and which is now  called by  the guides,  "King's
Ravine." He will see the precipitous gulf between Jefferson
and Adams on the southeast; the deep cut gorge in Adams, on
the northwest, whose bones of grey cliff, breaking bare through
the steep verdure, will be remembered as the most picturesque
of all the scenes which the day gives. He will wind around
the chasm between Adams and Clay, divided from the savage
"Gulf of Mexico" by a spur of Adams, that runs out toward
the Glen House. And he will gaze off with delight upon the
long rolling braces that prop Mt. Pleasant, and Franklin, and
the tawny Monroe,-the boundaries of the ravines that one sees
in riding to Mt. Washington from the Notch, over the Crawford
bridle-path.
A path through the forest of Mt. Madison to the summit,
from the foot of Randolph Hill, has been "blazed," by Mr.
20 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Gordon, of Gorham. No more competent or faithful guide
than Mr. Gordon, could be desired for this expedition, or for
the ascent of Mt. Hayes, or for any tramp among the unvisited
portions of the mountains. He has, several times, accompanied
exploring and visiting parties to Umbagog Lake, which can be
reached in about a day from Gorham. Travellers can easily
learn at the Alpine House how to engage him for any service.
Before turning from the scenery around Gorham, we must
speak of the stage routes from Gorham to" The Notch." There
are two roads,  One passes through the Glen, the Pinkham
forest, the village of Jackson, and up through Bartlett to the
Crawford House, which is just beyond the Notch itself. The
distance from Gorham by this route, is forty-four miles; from
"The Glen," thirty-six miles.  The stages do not start from
Gorham, but from the Glen House. They leave about 8 o'clock
in the morning. Travellers, therefore, who desire to go by this
road must be at the Glen House over night, or must take a ride
of eight miles from the Alpine House to the Glen, early in the
morning, in order to reach the stage.
There is another route from Gorham to the Notch, by what
is called "THE CHERRY MOUNTAIN ROAD."   The distance by
this route is thirty-two miles.  There are no regular stages over
it, as over the road from the Glen House.  But Mr. Hitchcock,
the landlord of the Alpine House, provides excellent teams and
drivers for all parties who wish to reach the Notch by this roadr
The price of seats in these extra teams, is, we believe, but little
more than the regular stage fares amount to, from Gorham, by
the other route,
It is to be regretted that there is not a regular line of stages
by this route to the Notch. For the scenery along almost the
whole line of the road is grander than by any other stage route
among the mountains.  It takes in the glorious spectacle from
Randolph Hill, of which we have spoken. It commands every
slope and summit of the Mt. Washington range from the north;
and for some twelve miles of the way they are all in view at
21 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
once, with no intervening hills to break the impression of their
majesty. Such a view can be gained on no other road; and
the forms of the mountains on the northerly slope are grander
than on the southerly side. From the village of Jefferson,
through which this Cherry Mountain road runs, not only is
every one of the great White Mountain group visible, but also
the Franconia Mountains, the side of the Willey Mountain in
the Notch, the line of nearer Green Mountains beyond the
Connecticut,-in fact, a panorama of hills to the northwest and
north, almost as fine as the prospect in that direction from the
summit of Mt. Washington. So striking is the view from the
village of Jefferson that, doubtless, if a good hotel should be
built there, that village would be one of the most popular resorts
in New England before many years. To see this picture would
richly repay a drive from Gerham and return, if the traveller
did not desire to pass on to the Notch. The noblest part of the
view can be had without leaving the wagon, from a hill in Jef ferson, about twelve miles from the Alpine House.
The return ride from the Notch to Gorham, by Cherry Moun tain, is, in some respects, superior to the ride the other way.
From Jefferson to Gorham, it is certainly more grand, than
when facing in the other direction.
For several miles we front the four highest mountains of the
ridge, and seem to be riding into them, with no chance of a
detour. How massive they seem as we draw nearer and nearer!
The summits appear of about equal height, and instead of
presenting thin and gullied sides, all their lines run outward
towards us and are firmly braced in the valley, as though they
were immense forts, once upheaved and buttressed with granite
ridges, to defend an army of a larger mould than our race,
against a siege. The Notch itself is hardly more majestic than
this quadruple fortification, which glooms and darkens more and
more upon the eye as we ride nearer to it, and which springs
out of a wild forest as yet almost unvisited by man. For sev  eral miles the vision lasts. Then Washington drops away from
22 
WHlITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
the company, and we are left with Adams, Jefferson, and Mad ison. Next, Adams withdraws, and we ride by the base of the
remaining two. Soon their grand lines untwist, and their rocks
seem, as it were, to be dishevelled, till we gain the summit of
Randolph Hill, overlooking Gorham, and find that, by inexplicable magic they have been transformed into superb symmetry
again, and hide from the delighted eye every trace of those
glorious compeers, that had joined with them in threatening
the valley of Randolph, a few miles behind.
Parties may feel reasonably sure that they can obtain excellent wagons and experienced drivers for this Cherry Mountain
route, at any time, from Mr. Hitchcock of the Alpine House in
Gorham. And so many parties are sent in this way to the
Notch, that travellers staying at the Crawford House can very
often find, on inquiry, teams about to return to Gorham, that
will enable them to view the magnificent scenery of the return
ride.
The proprietor of the Alpine House is also prepared to furnish carriages and drivers to parties of any size for a tour of the
mountains, as well as for a visit to the Notch.
And now let us turn to
THIE GLEN.
This charming spot is situated eight miles, as we have said,
from Gorham. Until the opening of the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Railroad, a few years ago, it was an unvisited waste. At
first a Public House of very modest proportion was erected.
Soon it was found necessary to enlarge it, and then to increase
its size again; and now one of the largest and grandest Hotels
of the White Mountain region stands there for the benefit of
travellers. The main building is 130 feet in length, 42 in
width, and four stories high. There is a grand portico to the
principal entrance. Over this is a balcony upon which the
second story windows open, from which may be had an uninterrupted view of the five highest mountains of New England.
23 
2WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
From this balcony, also, the guests of the Hotel can watch with
a glass the progress of the horseback parties ascending or descending the rugged ledges of Mt. Washington. The dining
room is a noble hall calculated to seat two hundred persons;
and the withdrawing rooms, which front towards the Motintains
and the rushing Peabody river, are spacious, airy, and exceedingly pleasant.
The Glen House, since the commencement, has been under
the charge of Mr. J. M. Thompson.   How  acceptably he has
fulfilled his duty as proprietor and landlord is attested, better
than any words of ours can describe, by the crowds that seek
his hospitality, in the hottest weeks of summer, from all parts
of the country.  Spacious as the Hotel is, it often overflows
with guests in August.
We give a picture of the Glen House. But the plate does
no justice to its situation. It stands on a plateau,' 830 feet
above the Gorham valley, and 1,632 feet above tide water at
Portland, in the midst of a magnificent mountain bowl.  Behind it bend the thin high ridges of Mt. Carter and its spurs,
3,000 feet in height, and green with unbroken forests to their
crests. On the southwest, one sees the steep, bony braces of
Mt. Washington, running off one behind the other into the
Pinkham forests and towards Jackson. Directly in front are
the outworks and huge shoulder of Mt. Washington itself, and
behind this heavy shoulder, on a retreating ridge, the pin nacle where the Summit House stands. Associated directly
with Mt. Washington, and bending around to the north-west
and north, are Mt. Clay, rising over the huge "Gulf of Mexi co;" the stout, square shouldered Adams; and the symmetrical,
sharp, and splendid pyramid of Jefferson, with its peak so pointed
that it looks unscaleable. This mountain is by far the grandest
in shape and impressiveness of all. And next to this with lines
running eastward is Mt. Madison which completes the staff of
Washington. Thus the five highest summits of the White Hills
24 
t~~~~~~~~~~~~i'
lIi
CD
34
lii  till
Ill               U  if
I
s 
WtIwITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
are, as we have said, in full view directly in front of the Hotel
in the Glen.  The height of Mt. Washington is 6,285 feet;
Mt. Clay, 5,011; Mt. Adams, 5,710; Mt. Jefferson, 5,790;
Mt. Madison, 5,361.
No Public House among the Mountains is situated so near
the Mt. Washington range as this. There are views of the
Mountains to be had at a little greater distance that will give
more pleasure to the artistic sense; but no view of the chief
White Mountain range can be had from a Hotel that is comnparable with this which the piazza of ths Glen House offers.
The best time to approach it is in the clear afternoon of a
summer day, when the shadows fall soft and rich in the gorges
and over the rugged slopes of the chain. Then the mountains
look higher, and their grandeur is tempered with a mystic
beauty. There is perpetual charm, too, in watching the play of
the vapors around the cliffs and in the ravines, on a misty and
showery day in August.   Now they will wrap a long mountain
wall in a cold, grey mantle to the base. Now they will break
along a ridge, and reveal the harsh sides of a chasm, or the
ramparts of a ridge, hanging seemingly in the clouds.  Soon
they will thin away below for a mile, and show the green fore ground softened by a moist veil. Next they will knot them selves into thick rolls, and then stretch themselves slowly into
sleazy textures, as though they were made of vapory India
rubber. Once in a while, they will lift themselves nearly to
the summit of a ridge, and try to plunge down again,-really
tiring the eye that watchs them
Sink by compulsion and laborious flight.
And sometimes they will break entirely around one of the
mountains, Jefferson perhaps, and show it piercing the grey sky,
apparently doubled in height by being seen isolated from its
brother hills.
In May and early June the view from the Glen House is very
charming. For then huge patches of snow lie on the upper
26 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
slopes of the range.  But in October the spectacle is generally
more fascinating than in any other season of the year.   Es  pecially when the traveller can see, as we once saw there, the
summits, stained with snow, rising over forests dyed in orange,
brown, and crimson,-and delicate curtains of mist drooping
from the sky and swaying gently along the line of the crests.
Stages leave the Glen House, every morning, for the Notch,
by the way of Jackson, and for North Conway, and Conway.
The distance to the Notch, as we have said, is thirty-six miles;
to North Conway twenty miles; to Conway twenty-five miles.
Stages run, also, to the Gorham  and the Alpine house, con necting with four trains on the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Road.
And from each train, up and down, on that road there is stage
conveyance from Gorham to the Glen.
Of course the chief object of interest among the guests at
the Glen House, after faithfully seeing the mountain view, is
Ta, ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON.
More travellers ascend Mt. Washington now from the Glen
House and the Alpine House, by the road from the Glen, than
by any other route The distance from the base of the mountain, in front of the Glen House, to the summit is a little less
than six miles. Four miles of this distance are passed on the
easy slope of the road designed for a carriage route to the summit. The project of such a road was started some four years
ago.  It was supposed that the road would be completed last
year (1857.) But the enterprise seems of late to be suspended.
Part of the way, the path has been finished and macadamized.
It winds upward with a very easy grade-one foot in eightand inclines inward towards the mountain, so that the rains
shall not wash heavily across it. And it is laid out with sufficient width to allow carriages to pass each other. The road,
if finished according to the plan, would be eight miles in length.
Only a small portion of the track has been completed so that
a carriage could be driven over it. But it has been laid out
27 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and partially built for about four miles; and over this distance,
the parties who ascend from the Glen and Gorham ride on
horseback up a very easy grade. The horses then reach the
top of what is called "The Ledge."   From  this point the distance is but two miles to the summit of Mt. Washington; and
along these two miles the glories, as well as the only difficulties,
of the ascent are found.
The charm of the bridle-path from the Notch to Mt. Washington, lies in the passage over the tops of four lower summits
of the ridge, each one a little higher than the last, and in the
view thus given, of ravines that sweep off, each way, from the
horse path to the base of the range. From the Glen the ascent
is made directly up Mt. Washington itself all the way.
And during the last two miles a most surprising view is offered of Adams, Jefferson, and Madison. They sweep up from
the enormous Gulfs at the right hand of the path, and are visible from base to crown.
There is no view, perhaps, so exciting as this, on the path we
have just spoken of from the Crawford Notch. Many will think
that this spectacle, which grows grander and grander as they
rise; is more inspiring than the prospect from the peak above.
One learns, in looking at those great forms, the decided differ ence there is in genus between a mountain and a hill. The eye
is fascinated by the colors of these rugged monarchs-the various
verdure of their lower forests, their tawny shoulders, the purple
and grey of their bare ledges, the dim green of their peaks.
One will notice, also, the charming lines which the torrents have
torn upon their surfaces. For when' we look across a gulf, or
from a little distance below, upon a steep mountain, we find that
it is the wrath of the freshets that gives them their finest lines of
expression and character. And if the day is blessed with clouds
that drift over the mountains, the eye will find unspeakable
pleasure in watching the shadows that will droop swiftly from
cone to base; and in following the incessant flushes and frolics
of light and shade, that robe them with ever changing charm.
28 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
But to appreciate the beauty and majesty of these mountains
that are in view from the Glen House and Gorham path, one
should see them late on a bright summer afternoon, either in
ascending or descending Mt. Washington. Then the sun is
behind them, sinking in the west. Then the richest contrasts
of color, of light, and of shadow are revealed. The summit an
shoulders of Mt. Adams glow with rich orange hues.   The
slanting light streams between the peaks and burnishes the
sides of their ragged pyramids. The " Gulf of Mexico" gapes
with more terror as the shadows from its walls, that measure
more than a thousand feet, fall far into its base. And as the
sun falls nearer and nearer the horizon, the sharp shadows of
Mt. Jefferson, and of the neighboring peaks, stream down upon
the Glen House valley, and march up the opposite slopes of
Carter to dislodge its yellow light that melts into purple, and to
cover them with dusk. The noon-time is the poorest of all
seasons to be on the ridge of Mt. Washington; for then there
are no shadows. And it is a pity that the great majority of
those who ascend the range, see the scenery during the most
unpoetic hours, near midday.
From the summit of " The Ledge," where the view of the
three great mountains we have been speaking of is first gained,
the path rises over a series of receding plateaus. Each seems
to be the summit, as one looks from below. It is on account of
this structure of the cone of Mt. Washington, that it fails to
show its real height, until one gets far enough off from it, in the
valleys, to escape the effect of foreshortening.
During the last part of the ascent, one will see the pile of
stones that marks the spot where Miss Bourne, of Kennebunk,
Me., died, near midnight, in September, 1856, and where her
uncle and cousin kept sad watch till dawn. They started in
the afternoon, without a guide, to walk to the Summit. Night
and fog overtook them; and the young lady perished in the
chill and darkness among the rocks, but a few rods from the
3'
29 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
house they were in search of. Quite near, also, is the shelving
rock, beneath which the remains of an elderly gentleman from
Wilmington, Del., were found in July, 1857. I-Ie had attempted to ascend the mountain alone, one afternoon in August of
the year before, and must have been overtaken by storm, and
cold, and darkness, near the summit. His watch, and some
Bank bills in his vest pocket, were found uninjured; though most
of the body, and even part of the skeleton, were gone. A little
further below, and at the left of the ascending path, the ledge is
visible where Dr. Benjamin Ball, of Boston, passed two nights
in the snow and sleet of an October storm, alone, without food
or covering.  He was rescued when nature was about sinking.
HIlis feet were frozen, and he could not speak. How his life was
preserved in such exposure is a marvel. It is equally remarkable that, though his feet were severely frozen, they were saved.
Now let us ascend the last part of the steep cone and stand
upon the summit. The time used in mnaking the journey from
the base in the Glen to the peak, is generally about three hours.
It is often done in two hours and a half, and has been accom plished in less than two hours. What a stupendous view! A
horizon of nearly six hundred miles! At first nothing is
discerned but mountain sentinels on every hand, over furrowed
valleys! We look on the rocky warts and bristly wrinkles of
the hide of New England!
If the day is clear, one can see Monadnock loom as a pale
blue film, a hundred miles off on the southwest. Far in the
east, Katabdin is driven like a wedge into the sky. Westward
the eye roams almost to the Catskills; northward into Canada,
far beyond the sources of the Connecticut; southward, to the
mouth of the Saco. In a clear morning, or evening, if there is
a silvery gleam on the south-eastern horizon, it tells that the
sun is shining on the sea off Portland.
Nearer to us, on the west, towers the gloomy ridge of Fran conia, subsiding towards the Merrimack. That flash now and 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
then, through the opaline southern air is from Winnipisaukee,
the most exquisite jewel in the Lake-necklace of New England.
On the near north, the twin-domed Stratford mountains tower.
Their barren pallor, seen through the uncertain air, counterfeits snow. The cloven Pinkham pass lies directly beneath us,
bending around to lovely North Conway. Over this last village
we observe the drooping shoulders of Kearsarge, whose northern
sides flow from the summit as softly as full folds of drapery fall
from a ring. Mt. Crawford attracts attention by his singular
knob-like crest; and near him, all the winding Bartlett hills
stand up, guarding the shy beauty of their intervales. The
long and solid "Pleasant Mountain" draws the eye, set so
squarely near the still silver of Lovell's pond. And farther
south, the dim, level, leopard-spotted land stretches wide to the
horizon-haze.
Of course, it is unwise to attempt to describe such a view.
It is the map of New England printed before us in glowing
poetry. Those who look upon the sublime diorama for the first
time, under favorable circumstances, are so oppressed by the
novelty anid grandeur, that they do not appreciate what they
have seen till some days afterwards. Then it rises in memory,
and becomes a perpetual treasure for "the mind's eye."   No
one should fail to make the ascent, if health is good.  There is
no danger worth calculating; and the fatigue that may be
incurred is nothing to the spectacle that is offered. Especially
are the temptations to ascend greater now to ladies and partial
invalids, since such admirable accommodation is found in the
little hotel on the Summit.
There have been, and are still, we believe, serious disputes
about the title to the acre or two of chippy rock that make the
crown of Mt. Washington.  There have even been rival hotels
on its apex, the" Tip ToP HOUSE," and the "SUMI1T HOUSE."
Both these Houses have been united now under one manage.
ment. They were kept in 1857 by Messrs. Hall & Spalding;
31 
WIHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and everything that could be done on such a height, 6,300 feet
above the sea, for the comfort of guests, was faithfully attended
to by them.
When we think what a labor it is to carry all provisions to
such an elevation, and that even fuel must be taken up from
the forests far below, we cannot fail to admire the forethought
and energy that have kept the Summit House so well. Good
coffee and tea with milk, fresh eggs, new and well-made bread,
generally fresh meats, as well as excellent ham, and often trout,
are found on the plentifully provided table. Those who ascended Mt. Washington before there was any shelter on the peak
from gale or shower, or driving scud, or snow-squall, that often
awaited or overtook them, will know how those are favored now
who find good protection, fire, and a hot dinner ready on the
top.  The charges are certainly not unreasonable,-a dollar for
each meal, and a dollar for lodging. Sheets of paper and
envelopes, each with an engraving of the Mountain house and
summit, are on sale there.  Letters written thus to friends are
mailed to all parts of the country by the proprietors of the
hotel.  They drop the summer out of their calendar, and make
their home for days above human fellowship, amid lightning
and thunder, blinding fogs and sweeping sleet, to offer such
service to travellers.
It is frequently the case that persons pass up from the Glen
to the Summit, and either walk or ride down on the other side
to the Notch; and vice versa. In this way a day's time, and
a stage ride of over thirty miles is saved.   A  great many, too,
remain over night on the summit.  Unless the weather has long
been stormy, or very damp, one can sleep in comfort and safety
in the Summit House.  A night there in which one can see a
clear sunset, a minoonrise, and a sunrise, is a privilege that we
will not attempt to describe.   One appreciates the height of Mt.
Washington more by looking up in the night to the mighty
dome of stars, than by looking off and below in the day. Or
if the ni,ght is wild and stormy, the feeling one gains there of
82 
WIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
the tremendous forces amid which we are placed on this globe,
will more than atone for any uneasiness or discomfort. We
advise all who can, to remain over night on Mt. Washington.
B13ut it is time to turn from the hospitality of the Summit
House, and descend, through the exciting views that lie around
Mt. Washington, to the Glen House once more,   We  have not
spoken of other attractions that belong to its neighborhood.
One of these is a ride to "THEar IMP," which we described in
connection with Gorham. The point, as we have already said,
from which the face with its quaint expression upon the moun
tain top is seen, is nearly two miles from the Glen House, on
the road that diverges from the road to the Alpine House, and
which leads towards Randolph. It would be, also, a pleasant
afternoon walk.
Let us attend next to
THE GLEN ELLIS FALL.
This cataract is one of the interesting features of the wild
scenery in the neighborhood of the Glen House.  Carriages
run regularly from the hotel to carry visitors.
The fall is about four miles from the Glen House, near the
road- to North Conway and the Notch. It is very easy of access
from the point where you leave the wagon. Five minutes walk
through the forest takes one within hearing of the rich roar that
announces the nearness of the cataract. A critical ear could
construct the form and grandeur of the fall from its voice.  Its
bass quality, not broad and massive, but youthful, vigorous and
intense, and the slight splashiness that boarders and thins its
baritone, foretell that we are to come upon a narrow cataract,
leaping from a great height, with concentrated stream, into a
shallow basin. But the sound does not prepare a stranger for
the startling view upon which the forest path suddenly opens.
From the carriage road, the foot track is nearly level, leading to
a tree that overhangs a precipice of more than a hundred feet.
We lean against this tree for support, not without misgivings as
33 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
to its roots, and look down upon a huge wall of rock, over which
the Ellis river, stranding the streams of its various brooks into
a huge liquid cable, whose constant friction has worn a deep
groove in the granite, slides at a very sharp angle, for some
twenty feet, and then leaps, as from the nose of a gigantic
pitcher, sixty feet more. The public (as well as the cascade,)
View of Glen Ellis  Fall.
34 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE,
are indebted to Mr. Shepley, of Portland, for changing its
name from " Pitcher Fall,"  which was first given to it, to the
more elegant and appropriate title " Glen Ellis Cataract."
To discover the most romantic and charmning combinations in
mountain scenery, one must explore the larger streams, on their
way to the open valleys. The Naiads know how to turn their
course through the most picturesque passes, under the richest
arches of forest boughs, and down the most bewitching dells.
This is one of the glorious perquisites of the devoted troutfisher,
that his profession, (for it is really one of the fine arts) leads
him along the bye-ways of beauty that are hidden from the
eyes of ease-loving travellers, and up through winding cascadeaisles to many an adytum of forest wildness, or mountain grandeur.  Probably some trout-fisher Was the discoverer of Glen
Ellis Fall, which has been known only a few years.  The first
sight of it must have given a most impressive joy to the explorer,
if he were a man of taste.
The spot where it pours is more wild, and combines more of
the elements of loneliness, untameablencss, lawless beauty, and
strong contrasts of features, than any other spot in the White
Mountain region.   The overhanging tree against  which the
visitor leans to look down at the water-fall, giving him a footing
that undermines his delight with a sense of insecurity and fear;
the steep, mountain wall opposite, more  than three thousand
feet high, and t'iick set to the top with trees; the hard granite
rampart over which the comnpact white stream slips, and then
spouts into the basin below, and the smoothly carved groove
telling of the ages that have been exhausted in that merry rasping of the rock by the water-drops; the loveliness of the basin
itself, when one goes down to it and contrasts its green, placid
surface with the leaping crystal column that pours into it fromrn
eighty feet above,-these, and  the cheerful tripping  of the
stream on its way aglain in search of new adventures, after its
mad plunge, combine to make a mountain retreat, whose wildness
35 
WIIITE  MOUNTAIN  GUIDE.
and music Scott would have delighted to enshrine in his vigorous
verse, and which no visitor of Gorham and the Glen  House
should leave unvisited. Trenton has not any one scene, or any
one cascade, so striking. It has always seemed to me, on a
smaller scale, more like the scenery at the Natural Bridge in
Virginia, than any other district of the White Mountains.
About an hour is required to reach Glen Ellis Fall from the
Glen lHouse. Visitors need another hour at the spot. Generally the visit is too hurried. Twice the time that can be given
is generally found to be needed.
We give next a picture of another waterfall, which is one of
the most delightful resources of a visit at the Glen House. The
sketch, however. is very inadequate to the subject.
"CRYSTAL  CASCADE,, is gained from an entrance in the
woods about a mile from the Glen Ellis fall, on the way back to
the Glen House, from which it is only three miles distant.  It
pours down from heights opposite to those which feed the Ellis
river. Its descent is about eighty feet. Part of its water comes
from the dome of Mt. Washington, through Tuckerman's ravine.
It takes twenty or thirty minutes of forest walking and climbing
to reach the Crystal Cascade.   The true point to see it is not
the immediate foot of the fall, although most persons go there,
but a high bank opposite that overhangs the aged granite, and
has plenty of the softest seats cushioned with moss a foot or
more in depth. If it is wildness, and the spirit of strong,
bounding, unruly life that fascinates in the spot we have just
left, here it is delicate and exquisite beauty.
At Glen Ellis the whole stream pitches in one concentrated
tide; here, every pint of water is spread with charming economy
to the utmost service. Some seventy feet above, we can see
the brook pouring in a single stream around a bend. Then the
rock broadens into a rough stairway, with easy slope, which
grows wider and wider to the bottom, and down these steps the
spreading water sheds its white, thin, dancing and broken sheet,
so 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE,
View of Crystal Cascade.
showing, now and then, through its gauzy texture, the deep green
mosses clinging to the rocks which soften its own fall, and make
its cool music more gentle and luscious to the ear.
A friend of ours once compared it quite happily, to an inverted liquid plume-tha rill above, where the water is one
stream, being the stem, and the widening, fleecy flow its nod                4
87 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
ding, graceful, feathery spray. As to the form of the Cascade,
nothing can be finer than the simile.   But the delicate texture
and color of the descending rill suggest laces, and frills, and
foam-embroidery.   It is as though fairy milliners had set their
wits to work to weave a ruffled bosom for the rocky breast of
Mt. Washington, out of the snow-flax that falls in Winter around
his head.
There is a youthful and masculine energy in the Glen Ellis
fall. The Crystal Cascade shows rather a feminine, maidenly
delicacy and grace. There are always two parties among those
who visit these falls,-some contending for the superiority of
the first, others for the greater charm of the last.  If the reader
visits both, no doubt he will adopt our opinion that neither can
be spared, and that they are so different as to repel comparison.
A long forenoon or afternoon should be taken to make the
excursion to both spots.
We come now to speak of
" TUCKERMAN'S RAVINE,"
whose wails are visible from the Glen House. This ravine is a
tremendous gulf in the southerly side of Mt. Washington. It
was named in honor of Edward Tuckerman, Esq., who has been
a faithful explorer of the White Mountains. He often visited
the ravine, before the tide of travel turned to the eastern side
of the mountains, to complete his knowledge of the Lichens and
Flora of the region.
The hard, bare, thin and curling edge of the south-western
wall of this ravine, as seen from the Glen House, is one of the
most striking mountain lines visible from that fascinating spot.
The gulf may be reached by climbing directly up the stream of
the Crystal Cascade just spoken of.  That stream flows through
the centre of the sloping base of the ravine.
But the easier way is to follow the carriage road, for about
two miles, up AIt. Washington; strike off to the left into a
38 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN aUIDE.
forest-path, cut by direction of 3Mr. Thompson of the Glen
HIouse, and cross two and a half miles of forest, that lie
between the carriage road and " Hermit Lake."
This little sheet of water, so snugly embowered in the wilder ness, would attract more attention, were it not for the frowning
wall of the ravine that looms over it, and draws the eye upwards.
It lies under the southeast ridge.  Enmerging from  the woods
here, we see that the ravine is of horse-shoe shape-the opposite
outer cliff more than a thousand feet in height, the bottom slop ing upwards towards the backward crescent wall, and the rim
quite level.  Explorers must elimb along the centre of the gulf,
by the bed of a stream, pausing every minute to gaze at the
grim ramparts on either hand, and to invent, possibly, some
new exclamation of amazement and awe. Facing the party, as
they make their way slowly upward, will be the grand curve of
the sheer precipice that lies some way off and up under the
summit of Mt. Washington. It is symmetrical, seemingly, as
the wall of the Coliseum.
The sight of that stupendous amphitheatre of stone when one
gets near enough to appreciate it, would of itself repay and
overpay the labor of the climb. It is fitly called the " Mountain Coliseum." No other word expresses it, and that comes
spontaneously to the lips.  The eye needs some hours of gazing
and comparative measurement to fit itself for an appreciation of
its scale and sublimity.
One can hardly believe, while standing there, that the sheer
concave sweep of the back wall of the ravine was the work of
an earthquake throe. It seems as though Titanic Geometry
and trowels must have come in to perfect a primitive volcanic
sketch.  One might easily fancy it the Stonehenge  of a PreAdamite race,-the unroofed ruins of a temple, reared by
ancient Anaks long before the birth of man, for which the
dome of Mt. Washington was piled as the western tower.
There have been land slides and rock avalanches as terrible
in that ravine as at Dixvillc Notch. The teeth of the frosts
39 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
have been as pitiless; the desolation of the cliffs is as complete;
but the spirit of the place is not so gloomy as at Dixville.  It
is sublime rather than awful, or dispiriting.  At Dixville, all
is decay, wreck, the hopeless submission of matter in the coil
of its hungry foes.  In Tuckerman's ravine there is a grand
battle of granite against storm and frost,-a Roman resistance,
as though it could hold out for ages yet, before the siege of
Winter, and all the batteries of the air.
Unless the season is very dry, the back wall of this mountain
Coliseum will glitter with innumerable veins of water, which
are called "The Thousand Streams."  When  one has reached
the base of this curving precipice it is not a very difficult task
to climb to the summit of Mt. Washington. Parties have sometimes done so, passed the night there, and returned to the Glen
House the next day. Many also have visited the ravine by
descending into it, with a guide, from the top of Mt. Washing ton. The distance from the summit of the mountain to the
bottom of the gulf is about a mile.
A visit to Tuckerman's ravine in August will be the more
interesting if " The Snow Arch," is formed there. In 1855
and 1856, this beautiful spectacle was to be seen. The snow
is blown over from the summit of Mt. Washington by the north west winds, in winter, and is packed in drifts of a hundred feet
deep, under the walls of " The Coliseum." The streams of
early Spring and Summer channel the snow bank, and it grad ually melts from the roof within, till a vast snow cave is formed,
through which a person may walk.  In August, 1855, the snow
field measured about 300 feet long, 70 in breadth, and 15 in
depth. The roof of the part that was chanelled was some five
feet thick, and very solid.  A  hatchet was necessary to cut it.
The top of the span was about ten feet high inside. The whole
roof was wrought into beautiful scallops and chasings by the
melting and dropping of the snow within. The bank does not
disappear till the last of August.   The dog-day fogs penetrate
40 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and dissolve it. Thus we narrowly escape having a glacier
formed near the top of Mt. Washington.
GLEN HOUSE TO TIIE CRAWFORD HOUSE.
Having now passed a few days, or, still better, a few weeks
amidst the wondrous scenery around the Glen House, we leave
with reluctance this pleasant Hotel, and its hospitable host, and
continue our journey to the Crawford House, at the Great
Notch.
This trip is made in stages, the route lying at first in a
southerly direction through Pinkham Notch, then westerly along
the south-eastern flank of the mountains, and finally at the Great
Notch, passing directly through to the northern side. The dis tance is 34 miles, and the fare $3.00.
The same point is sometimes reached from the Glen House
by private coaches along the north-western side of the White
Hills, and over Cherry Mountain.   By this route you lose the
sublime impression always experienced on approaching the Notch
from the south, but gain the enchanting view from Cherry
Mountain.  If, however, you intend proceeding from the Crawford House to Franconia, the Cherry Mountain route must be
partially retraced, so that more variety is gained by selecting,
for the present trip, the route through Pinkham Notch.
The stages start as soon after breakfast as the passengers can
conveniently be ready.   There  are generally at least two
vehicles, a stage-coach, and an open mountain-wagon. If you
wish to enjoy an unobstructed view of the noble scenery on the
route, and do not mind a shower, sueh as often in summer
comes on very suddenly among these hills, you will not hesitate
to adopt the latter airy mode of conveyance.   The road lies
directly down the little descent towards the south.  On  the
right, the partially completed carriage road to Mt. Washington
turns off, and crossing the rustic bridge over the Peabody River
is soon lost among the trees. The forests now close in on each
side, the open space of Bellow's Clearing, which we have just
4*
41 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
left, is no longer visible, and we can catch only occasional
glimpses through the foliage of the overhanging cliffs of Carter
Mountain on the left, and of the lofty hills beyond the river on
the right. We are fairly within the portals of Pinkham Notch,
and the silence and solitude are relieved only by the tinkling,
and bubbling, and rushing of the Peabody River, as the road
follows closely its rocky bed. Here and there are quiet pools
much frequented in the warm season by the lover of trouting.
About two or three miles from the Glen House, the road
crosses the river twice in quick succession, and reaches the
highest point of the Notch. Here the Peabody River, and
the Ellis issue in nearly parallel courses from the forest on the
right, so near to each other that a slight amount of labor would
turn either stream into the other. As soon as they have passed
under the road, the Peabody turns abruptly down the ravine to
the north to unite with the Androscoggin, while the Ellis takes
an opposite course down the Notch towards the Saco.
Between the two streams, on the right, is the entrance to
the Crystal Cascade, marked by roughly engraved letters on the
bark of a tree.  These beautiful falls are distant from the road
only about a third of a mile, but are approached by an exceed ingly rough path.
After leaving the entrance to this Cascade we cross the Ellis
River, and soon pass the Mineral Spring House, an unfinished,
and uninhabited cottage in the edge of the forest on the right.
This house, the only shelter for seven miles, was located here
on account of the supposed medicinal character of the spring
near by, but the project has been abandoned, and the building
seems going to ruin.
Proceeding a little farther we reach the entrance to Glen
Ellis Falls on the left. This cascade is nearer the road than
the other, and is approached by an easy path of plank.
TiE FOOT OF PIN IIAMI NOTCH.
Continuing down the Notch two or three miles, the country
42 
WHlITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
opens again, and cleared fields on the intervales of the Ellis
River take the place of unsubdued forests. Near here a glance
toward the north-west is rewarded by a fine view of a monster
boulder, apparently rolling down a south-eastern spur of Mt.
Washington.   The first house is soon reached, and we seek to
catch a sight of the inhabitants, whose nearest neighbors on the
north are seven miles away. The house is quite large, and is
considerably visited by artists and others, who delight in the
wildness of the surrounding scenery, and the substantial mountain fare.
To this vicinity Capt. Joseph Plnkham, and four other hardy
pioneers, removed in April 1790, from Madbury in the lower
part of the State. The Pinkham family came up over the
snow, which lay five feet deep, and brought all their household
goods from Conway on a hand-sled.  They found their logcabin, which had been erected during the previous autumn,
almost buried in the snow. One of the sons of the family, Mr.
Daniel Pinkham, constructed the Notch road, and gave it his
name.
JACKSON.
A few miles more through a widening valley brings us to a
sudden turn, which discloses the white spire of the church in
"Jackson City."   We greet this token of returning civilization
with something of the enthusiasm which a sailor feels on reaching land after a long voyage.  It belongs to a Free Will
Baptist Society, founded in this quiet valley as early as 1803.
You should not omit, near this point, to look back at the dark
gorges, which open miles away towards Mt. Washington. A
few steps brings us to a nice little Inn, where the horses are
changed, and passengers for Conway and Lake Winnipisaukec
take another coach. HIere may almost always be seen a few
artists, and other guests, drawn thither by the delightful scenery,
and the rural comfort of the hotel.  Just at the north-east of
the house is a romantic cascade on the Wild Cat Brook, a trib
43 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
utary of the Ellis River.  While the horses are changing you
will have time enough to visit these falls, and will be amply
compensated for the trouble, if there is the usual quantity of
water, leaping from rock to rock.
From the portico of the Hotel there is gained a fine view of
the surrounding mountains. Facing the south you see Iron
Mountain rising to the height of 2,900 feet on the right, and the
bald peak of Tin Mountain on the left. Soon after leaving
the Hotel the two noble peaks of Doublehead come into view
in the northeast. The nearer peak is 3,000 feet high, and the
farther a hundred feet higher. Jackson has vast mineral re.
sources, possessing, besides many less important metals, iron,
copper, and tin. The last was discovered here, before it had
been found in any other part of the United States. This town
was first named New Madbury, then Adams, in honor of the
great statesman, and finally received it present name, when
Adams and Jackson were competitors for the Presidency, all
its voters but one being in favor of the latter.
GOODRICHI FALLS.
A mile below Jackson, just before crossing the new trestle
bridge over the Ellis River, you can obtain a fine view of
Goodrich Falls. Leaving the road a little above the bridge,
and proceeding a few rods to the right, you come to an old
bridge in front of the cataract.  This is the largest perpendicular fall to be seen among the mountains, and after heavy rains
appears quite grand. At any time the view down the river
between the steep wooded banks is exceedingly picturesque.
A short scramble on the opposite side of the river will be amply
rewarded by the nearer view of the Falls, which is thereby
gained. The drivers on all the mountain routes are very kind
and accommodating, and will readily allow time for the ramble.
Indeed, we may here say, that, at all times, the tourist will
find them ready to stay as long as he may desire to obtain views
of the fine scenery in any part of the route. In this vicinity
44 
WHITTE MOUNTAIN OUIDE.
the traveller first notices that pleasant element of the mountain
scenery, the little girls standing by the road side with] tiny birch
baskets filled with berries for sale.   Buy some raspberries, or
some blueberries, and you will make many a little heart glad,
as well as secure the neat baskets as souvenirs of your trip.
VALLEY OF THE SACO.
Soon after leaving Goodrich Falls, we reach the Saco valley,
and crossing the Ellis River, the Rocky Branch, and the Saco
in quick succession, turn abruptly towards the west. For the
remainder of the distance to the Crawford House, we are pass ing over the same road, as those who come up from Centre
Harbor, and Conway.
At the time of the Willey slide the Rocky Branch, which
here joins the Saco, rose so rapidly, as to surround a log cabin
on its banks, before the inmates could make their escape.
They soon found themselves floating down the swollen stream,
but were at last landed in safety on the summit of a little hill.
As we proceed up the Saco, the beautiful level intervals, on
each side of the stream, are worthy of oulr attention, as well as
the hills, which rise boldly on each side at no great distance
from the river.  Before us, a little to the left, are the three
peaks of Tremont Mountain, about 3,500 feet in height, and
directly behind for a long distance we can see the noble pyra
midal form of Kearsarge, sometimes called Pequawket. On
its summit, at the height of 3,400 feet, is distinctly seen the
large hotel, erected some yearsago for the accommodation of
visitors. It is now unfortunately uninhabited, and almost in
ruins. The solitariness of Kearsarge gives it a lonely dignity
scarcely equalled by any other mountain in the region. In this
vicinity is seen an old brown house on the left hand of the road,
bearing the startling announcement that a bear, a rattlesnake,
and a hedgehog can be seen "hear."
The part of the Saco Valley, through which we are now passing, forms the town of Bartlett.  It is nearly coincident with a
45 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
tract of land granted to Capt. William Stark and Vero Royce,
as a reward for services performed in Canada during the French
and Indian War, and was settled about 1770.   There is no
compact village in the town, but the houses are scattered at considerable intervals along the valley. At one of these, which
looks like a farm-house, but is also a tavern, you will stop for
dinner, and will not find the well-spread table unwelcome after
your long ride, nor esteem fifty cents, the ordinary charge, an
exorbitant price.  It is customary for every guest to register his
name in the record-book in the hotel parlor, and as this is the
great high road to the mountains, you will be interested in ob.
serving the names of many friends, who have preceded you on
this journey.
After proceeding a short distance from the half-way house,
which we have just left, we pass a high rock close to the road on
the left hand, called
SAWYER'S RO C,
and famous for its association with the discovery of the Great
Notch.  The story is narrated by Mr. Willey in his White
Mountain Incidents, a book which should be in the hand of
every traveller to this region. In early periods the land on the
north side of the mountains was almost valueless on account of
the long circuit, which must be made to reach it. It is supposed
that the Indians had been acquainted with the pass, now called
the Notch, and had taken their prisoners through it to Canada,
but it was still unknown to the white inhabitants until one day
about 1771, a solitary hunter, named Nash, happened to climb a
tree on Cherry Mountain to look for game. Casting his eye
towards the south-east he thought he perceived an opening
through the mountains.   Making his way in that direction, he
arrived at last at the narrow opening called the Gate of the
Notch, and passing through the gorge he proceeded to Portsmouth, and announced the long wished-for discovery to George
Wentworth. IHunters had before scaled the mountains on foot,
46 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
so the Governor determined to test the feasibility of the pass, by
promising Nash a large tract of land on the north side of the
mountains, since known as Nash and Sawyer's Location, if he
would get a horse through and bring him to Portsmouth. This
was by no means an easy task, but by the aid of Sawyer, a fellow hunter, he succeeded in bringing the horse through, sometimes drawing him up high precipices with ropes, and then
letting him down on the other side. When they let him down
the last rock on the southern side, Sawyer drained the rum from
his bottle, and dashing it on the rook exclaimed-" This shall
hereafter be called Sawyer's Rock," and so it is.
A little beyond this point the road turns to the north, as it
follows the great bend of the Saco round Hart's Ledge on the
opposite side of the valley, and soon crosses a small stream
called Sawyer's River. At the source of this brook, three or
four miles to the west is Bemis Pond, a small sheet of water,
often resorted to for trouting by the guests of the Mt. Crawford
House.
NANCY'S BROOK AND BRIDGE.
The forests and the mountains now begin to close in, as if to
prepare the traveller for the contracted atmosphere of the Notch,
and a little brook comes leaping down the mountain side with a
winning air of wild freedom.   This is Nancy's Brook,  and the
rustic structure thereon across it is Nancy's Bridge. It was
near this spot that a disconsolate maiden, whose name is here
preserved, perished with fatigue and cold, when she had walked
all the way from Jefferson through the snow and darkness in
pursuit of her recreant lover. She was found stiff and cold,
sitting at the foot of a tree near the bank of this book.   The
incident has already afforded material for the pen of the novelist, and the skill of the pencil has been repeatedly spent in
portraying the picturesque beauty of Nancy's Bridge, and its
setting of wild rocks, and trees, and bubbling cascades.
A half a mile beyond this bridge, we come to the MT. CRAW
47 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GEIDB.
FORD HouSE.  This hotel has been in past years a favorite resort for the sportsman, and the quiet loving traveller, and once
it was one of the principal public houses of the region, but
during last summer it was closed. The situation is a delightful
one, and it is hoped the house will again open its doors to visitors. There is a path from this point to Mt. Washington, styled
the Davis Road, which is longer than the other, but inferior to
none in romantic interest. We are now in the midst of Hart's
Location, which borders the Notch on the southern side, while
Nash and Sawyer's approaches it on the north.
On this very spot old Abel Crawford, styled the "Patriarch
of the Mountains," lived and reared his family.   At the age of
seventy-five he made the first ascent ever made to Mt. Washington on horse-back. When he was eighty he was so robust as to
think nothing of walking five miles before breakfast to his son's
house at the Gate of the Notch. His son, Ethen Allen Crawford, called the " Giant of the HIills," cut the first bridle-path
to Mt. Washington in 1821. Hle resided at that time near the
Giant's Grave on the north side of the Notch, and the path was
nearly, if not quite, coincident with the one now called " Fa byan's Path." All the paths on the western side of the moun tains were cut by the Crawfords. Ethen was a great hunter,
and used to delight his guests with quaintly related stories of
many a daring adventure. Both he and his father acted as
guides to the travellers, who in their time visited the mountains.
At the time of the Willey Slide, the Saco rose so rapidly and
so high, as to flood the lower story of Mr. Crawford's house,
before the family could escape. Hle himself was away from
home, but the rest retired to the upper story, and during the
raging tempest, Mrs. Crawford stood at the north window,
clearing away with a pole, the logs, and other drift, which
pressed with so much force against the house, as to threaten it
with instant destruction every moment. This intrepid woman
was the mother of eight sons.
48 
WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
THiE  iCHAPEL OF TEE IIILLS.
In the vicinity is a little church, built 1)y the assistance of a
benevolent lady of Boston, and consecrated January 1854.
The donor was actuated to this good work by observing, in one
of the Boston newspapers, a letter from a visitor to this region,
setting forth its religious destitution. She immediately offered
to contribute two hundred dollars towards the erection of a
chapel far up among the hills, if the inhabitants of Bartlett
would raise the balance. As a result of these efforts, we see
this comfortable building, the only church for miles around.
Like some of the little chapels in Westminster Abbey, it seems
to stand in the midst of a grander and loftier temple, reared by
the hand of Nature, and consecrated long ago by the prayers
and the songs of the Red Man
THE APPROACH TO THiE NOTCIH.
As we proceed up the Saco, Mt. Crawford, and the Giant's
Stairs, are distinctly visible beyond the river on the right. The
southern peak, Mt. Crawford, is 3,200 feet high, and the north.
era is 3,500.  Between them is Mt. Resolution.   Over these
eminences passes the Davis Road to Mt. Washington. After
crossing the Saco twice, the road now turns a little towards the
northwest.   This road was the tenth turnpike constructed in
NewTIampshire, and was incorporated in 1803. It extends
through the Notch, and through Nash and Sawyer's Location
twenty miles, and cost forty thousand dollars. On account of
the immense travel over it, it nevertheless paid well. Before it
was laid out, the common county road crossed the Saco thirtytwo times, in making its way up the valley. Near here we pass
through a forest of gigantic white birches, and catch an occasional view of a lofty overhanging mountain directly in front
At last the Great Notch bursts upon our view in all its sublime majesty, and, looking up the gorge, we behold the frowning Webster on the right, the scarred sides of the fatal Willey
5
49 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
on the left, and the rounded summit of Mt. Willard just appearing far away in the middle of the picture. This view of
Mt. Webster from the end, is perhaps the most impressive way,
in which it can be seen. We cannot help wondering if human
foot has ever dared to tread its apparently inaccessible heights,
or to explore its mysterious recesses. Well was it named for
him, whose overhanging, thoughtful brow, these majestic cliffs
so much resemble.
Descending rapidly into the Notch the road passes over the
debris of the first slide, now covered with a considerable growth
of white birches. Boulders are scattered around in wild confusion, and the atmosphere of death and destruction seems still
to linger about the place. A few rods brings us to the second
slide, and we catch the first sight of
THu  WILLEY HOUSE.
This famous edifice, situated on the left hand of the road direotly under Willey Mountain, was the scene of the great disaster, which caused the loss of the whole Willey family. Only
the northern and smaller portion of the present building was
standing at that time, the southern part having been added in
later years to accommodate guests, who sometimes stop here.
The original building was erected by a Mr. Hill for a public
house, not far from 1820. Previous to this period there was
no habitation between the Old Crawford House, and the Rosebrooks', a distance of 13 miles. Its hospitable roof was often
greeted with gratitude by many a traveller, who would perhaps
otherwise have perished in the awful snow-drifts, so common in
the Notch during winter. After occupying the house for a few
years, Mr. Hill left it, and it stood empty for several months.
At last, in the Autumn of 1825, Mr. Willey moved in with his
family, and passed the ensuing winter very comfortably. In
the June following, however, there was a slide from the mountain, which terrified them considerably, but did them no permanent injury. It proved to be a warning of the great disaster,
50 
View of the Willey House.
$ 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
which was to follow. On the night of Aug. 28, 1826, a most
violent tempest raged about the Notch, and a vast amount of
soil, and of rocks on Willey Mountain was precipitated into the
valley below, overwhelming the whole family, consisting of Mr.
Willey, his wife, five children, and two hired men. The house
itself was not injured, but it is supposed that the inmates, rush   ing out in their terror, were overtaken by the slide a little lower
down by the Saco. A pile of stones alone marks the place
where the bodies of most of them were found. The father,
mother, and two children, rest in the burial place of the family,
near the boundary of Bartlett, and Conway. The house was
deserted for a year after this event, but at last a family named
IjPendexter moved in, and it has been generally occupied since
that period Of late years it has become important as a show*  place, twelve and a half cents being charged for shewing each
person through the house.  There is, however,  nothing within
the ruinous edifice of sufficient interest to warrant even this
trifling expenditure. In the rear is seen the great roek, once
thirty feet high, which separated the slide, and thus saved the
house. The top of it is now almost level with the ground
around it, and a pole thirty feet high has been erected close by.
to assist the inexperienced mind in forming a correct conception
of the former height of the rock. So kindly is sight-seeing
here made easy for beginners. From the top of the rock, a
beautiful path, quite the most attractive element of the scene,
winds among the birches on the slide, far up the mountain. In
front of the house is still standing the ruin of the stable, which
was half demolished by the avalanche. Before remounting the
coach you should not fail to drink some of the excellent water,
to be found at the upper end of the piazza. It is sometimes
wondered that any one dares to inhabit so perilous a spot as
this, but it must not be forgotten that the side of Willey is now
so bare, that there seems nothing more  to come down but the
solid rock of the mountain. On the opposite side of the river,
52 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
however, Mt. Webster rises apparently perpendicular to the
height of two thousand feet above the valley, and almost
threatens to overwhelm it. In every tempest the inhabitants of
the Willey House hear the enormous rocks crashing down its
precipitous sides, with the sound of thunder, while lightnings
play about its awful brow. But there is in reality no danger.
THE IHEAD OF THE NOTCH.
After leaving the Willey House the road winds up the
narrow ravine for about three miles, ever and anon crossing the
rushing stream, and bending around projecting rocks. This
part of the trip is generally performed at the close of the day,
when the lengthened shadows add a gloomy grandeur to the
scene. Shut in by dismal walls 2,000 feet high, our hearts
sink within us, with a feeling of utter insignificance. The steep
sides of Willey Mountain are diversified by tier above tier of
wandlike white birches, the stems being peculiarly apparent on
account of the steepness of the mountain. At the top of this
mountain on a sort of plateau, is a little lake called Ethan's
pond. Near as this is to the Saco, it yet finds its outlet towards
the southwest into the Pemigewasset, and so into the Merrimack.
On each side far above our heads little torrents come pouring
down over the rocks in cascades, which will be examined more
at our leisure, in excursions from the Crawford House. As we
proceed, the "Old Maid of the Mountain," a great stone face
just above the road on the right hand side, and an overhanging
rock on the same side, called the "Devil's Pulpit," come into
view. On the face of this, with imagination, can be seen
another profile, called "The Infant," and is said to have been
discovered by Ex-Gov. Baker, now of Iowa. In front, far up
on Mt. Willard, which has now assumed gigantic proportions,
appears the black mouth of the "Devil's Den."   Just before
arriving at the Gate, the road turns a little to the right with a
bend in the Notch itself, and we suddenly emerge from the
5#*  
.53 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
wondrous gorge, between two chaotic piles of rocks, andc uprooted trees, only twenty-three feet apart.
The Crawford House is now in sight, and a short ride over a
level road brings us to the piazza. We must not be surprised
at the number of spectators, who come to see our debarkment,
for the arrival of the evening coaches, is one of the most exciting events of the day here.
THE CRAWFORD HOUSE AND VICINITY.
The Crawford House is a large and new edifice, very eommodious and agreeable for a summer hotel. There are pleasant
piazzas on the outside, and five halls, much used in the evening
for promenading, run the entire length of the house within.
The parlor is large and well furnished, the dining-room ample
in its proportions, and its table always supplied with the delicacies of the metropolitan markets, as well as such substantial
articles of mountain production, as delicious berries, and the
richest milk and cream. The Office is situated in the central
part of the house, and generally presents as busy a scene as
the great square in a city. Hither every one comes to talk
over his plans, and to make arrangements for various excursions,
or for continuing his journey to other points of interest. You
should be careful, as soon as you arrive, to book your name at
51 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
this place for a horse to Mt. Washington, if you intend  to
make the ascent within a few days, as often all the ponies are
engaged for a day or two beforehand.  The price of a horse to
the summit and back with guides for the party is $3.  You
should also book your name a day or two in advance, if you
intend to secure a seat in any of the stages which leave this
house, for it sometimes happens that every seat is engaged, if
you wait till the time for starting. Here also is the Post Office
of this wild region. Portraits of two of the Crawfords, patriarchs of these mountains, adorn the wall. The lodging rooms
of the house are well furnished, and pleasant, especially those,
which have windows towards the Notch. Connected with the
hotel are a bowling-alley for rainy-day and evening amusement,
and extensive stables, furnished with a large number of horses,
to be used either under the saddle or in carriages, for the
delightful rides about this vicinity. Last summer two tame
bears, in the edge of the forest at the southwest of the house
afforded the guests much amusement. This excellent establishment is kept by Mr. J. L. GIBB, with the assistance of his
gentlemanly clerk, Mr. W. H. WITT.   The price of board here,
as at all the first class houses among the mountains, is $2.50
per day.
THE PLATeAU.
We are now in the midst of a little plateau, about 2,000 feet
above the sea. It is the highest point of the valley, and the
water flows from it in both directions, the spring near the house
discharging its contents down through the Notch into the Saco,
and that at the stables emptying itself into a tributary of the
Ammonoosuc, and reaching the sea through the Connecticut.
In front of the house there is a beautiful fountain, and farther
on a tiny lake, which forms the head water of the Saco. Down
near the Gate of the Notch on the left hand is the ruins of the
old Notch House. This was erected by Ethan Allen Crawford
and his father, and kept for a public house by Thomas J. Craw
55 
WEITB  MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
ford, a brother of Ethan. Many a thrilling tale is narrated of
the adventures of early guests at this house, who attempted to
ascend the mountains under the guidance of the Crawfords, or
sometimes even without guides. The appearance of the Notch
House is familiar to almost every one, from its having been
pictured so often in Geographies and other books. It was the
largest house of the region for a long time after it was built,
and had the upper story project over the arch-topped sheds
below in a peculiar manner.  After the Crawford House was
erected, the building was used for lodging the supernumeraries,
who could not find quarters in the large hotel.  A year or tw6
ago the time-honored structure  was  unfortunately burned.
About half way down the road to the Gate, on the right hand,
is a guide-board pointing out the path to
MT, WILLARD, AND THm  DEVIL'S Di.
This mountain is easily ascended in carriages to the very
summit, where the view down the Notch fully repays all- the
trouble of the ascent. The height above the Crawford House is
but little more than 2,000 feet.  Carriages are afforded for the
excursion at a reasonable rate, whenever a party desires to
make it. Near the top of the mountain on the southern side
is the remarkable cavern, called the " Devil's Den," whose
black mouth was distinctly seen in coming up the Notch. This
was explored in August, 1856, by Dr. Benjamin Ball, of Boston, Mass.  There were rumors current previous to his exploration that it extended far into the mountains and that by another
opening bears sought its recesses to devour their prey. It was
said to have been explored by one of the Crawfords who discovered large quantities of bones. All this must have been a
myth. Dr. Ball was let down by ropes. He carried candles
and a knife to defend himself from wild animals.  The "Den"
however, proved to be only about twenty feet wide, fifteen feet
high, and twenty feet deep. It is so cold and damp that not
even the birds take refuge there. The onlytrophies of his
exploration were two hawk's feathers.
56 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
The excqision to the top of Mt. Willard, and the Devil's
Den, forms one of the pleasantest features of the entertainment
afforded in the vicinity of the Crawford House.
Another favorite ride or walk, is through the Gate of the
Notch, about three-fourths of a mile, to the
SILVER CASCADE.
The stream which forms it, when first seen far up on the
:untains, is about two miles from the road, and falls from that
p; t not far from eight hundred feet, over perpendicular cliffs
) nbefore reaching the Saco.  By  leaving the road at the bridge,
you can penetrate to the foot of the fall, where the water rests
at last in a quiet basin. If accustomed to climbing, you may
pursue the excursion farther, and gain a closer acquaintance
with the wild and beautiful cascade.
The  FLUME is still farther down the Notch, and is well
worthy of a visit. The fall here is between two and three
hundred feet. These cascades will appear to particular advantage, if you are fortunate enough to walk down into the Notch,
on a moonlight evening. Carriages also, often leave the Crawford House on other excursions, such as to the Willey House,
and to Ammonoosuc Falls, which will be described below.
GIBB'S FALLS.  There is near the Crawford House a series
of cascades which have been but recently discovered and are
comparatively unknown, but which are well worthy of the
attention of the tourist.  By striking into the woods near the
stables of the Crawford  House  and  following the aqueduct
which supplies the hotel with water, the traveller soon reaches a
brook which presents a succession of falls that in romantic loveliness are inferior to none in the White or Franconia mountains.
To the most striking of these the name of the gentlemanly and
accommodating landlord of the Crawford House has been given.
Gibb's Falls is about a quarter of a mile from the point at
which the aqueduct issues from the brook and is easily accessi
57
. 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
ble in a half hour's walk from the hotel. The water at this
point makes an abrupt descent of thirty or forty feet in two
distinct sheets which are separated by a projecting cliff draped
in a scanty verdure of lichens and mosses and crowned by a
single monster pine. The contrast between the emerald greenness of the projecting islet and the foaming torrents which
encompass it on either hand is picturesque in the extreme and
these hitherto nameless falls are well worthy the attention of the
artist and the lover of nature. But the greatest feat to be performed during your stay at this hotel, and that for which the
others are only preparative, is the ascent of Mt. Washington.
ASCENT Or MT. WASHINGTON FROM THE CRAWFORD HOUSE.
During the height of the season the excursion is made every
day, when the weather will allow, and generally occupies about
ten hours. It can be made, however, in a somewhat shorter
time if necessary. The distance to the Summit is, according to
the guide-board at the entrance to the path, only seven miles,
but, if you have a pleasant day, you will be by no means sorry
to find it nine, which is commonly supposed to be nearer the
truth. The entire distance is accomplished on the backs of the
most sure-footed Canadian ponies, with the attendance of two
or three experienced mountain-guides, who will be always at
hand to set a loose shoe on your horse, or to mend a failing
girth. If you do not like so long a ride on horseback, you can
be carried round in a carriage by a longer route over Fabyan's
Path to the foot of Mt. Washington, and can then take the
ponies for the last three or four miles.* By this course however
you lose all the beautiful views from the four mountains passed
over on the other path.  These are the most satisfactory to be
obtained, when, as is often the case, the summit of Mt. Washington is clothed in mist. Sometimes the ascent is made on
foot, but on account of the unparalleled roughness and steepness
* See Page 68.
58 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
of these mountain paths, this method is to most persons too
wearisome for enjoyment, unless they spend a long time on the
ascent and pass the night on the mountain. A flask of brandy
is often considered indispensable for pedestrians, as persons often
faint from fatigue. Whatever path or method you select, it is
never advisable to attempt the ascent, for the first time, without
a guide. Many accidents and inconveniences arise every year
from the neglect of this precaution. Often you pass from the
brightest sunshine below into impenetrable mists upon the
summits of the mountains.
The clothing for this excursion should be of the commonest
description at your command, but must be as warm  as any
required for winter wear. The temperature below cannot be
taken as a criterion of that at the height of four thousand feet
or more, where it is almost without'cessation severely cold.
Thick woolen mountain-jackets can be obtained at the hotel,
but you will be more independent if you have garments of your
own suitable for the purpose. Sacks and jackets are generally
worn, even by the ladies, rather than shawls or cloaks, on
account of their greater conveniences in the strong winds, which
blow incessantly across the tops of the mountains. Close caps
or hats secured very firmly on the head by strings are indispensable for the same reason. Half the pleasure of the excursion
is often lost on account of the annoyance arising from a loose
hat, continually blowing off, or from a troublesome shawl or
cloak incessantly flapping in the wind, and threatening to burst
every fastening. The ponies are brought to the door immediately after breakfast, and when the weather is promising, the
party does not generally consist of less than twenty-five. The
greater part of the guests at the hotel commonly come down to
the piazza at the north-eastern end of the house to see these
strange looking cavaliers, in all their grotesque c ostumes, set
out for the mountains. The path passes directly into the forest
on the east.
59 
WHITB MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
GENERAL VIEW OF THIS RANGE.
The first mountain which we ascend on this path is Mt. (Clinton.  It belongs to the great range, which extends from the
Notch north-easterly to Mt. Madison, a distance of fourteen
miles. The whole mountain region of New Hampshire is about
forty miles square, but the name, " White Mountains," is
sometimes applied, for the sake of distinction, only to this particular group of which Mt. Washington is the culminating point.
The following list gives the name and height of each mountain
of the range, in its order, commencing at the Notch:
MLt Webster,  -  4,000 ft.  Mt. Washington, 6,285 ft.
Mt. Jackson,  -4,100"    Mt. Clay,-  -  5,400
Mt. Clinton,   -  4,200 "    Mt. Adams, -  5,700
Mt. Pleasant,     4,800"    Mt. Jefferson, - 5,800
Mt. Franklin,-  4,900"    Mt. Madison,- 5,400
Mt. Monroe,    - 5,400
The last three stand in the order of the Presidents for whom
they were named.
One of the Indian names of these mountains was "Agiocochook," which signifies, "the place of the Spirit of the Great
Forest," or, according to Judge Potter, "the place of the Storm
Spirit," and another "Waumbekketmethna," alluding to the
whiteness of the mountains.  The distinctive title of " White"
has always been applied to them on account of their peaks
being white with snow during ten months of the year.  Even
in July and August the bare rocks have a greyish cast, when
seen from a distance, which almost entitles them to the name of
white. These noble hills were first visited in 1632, by a man
named Darby Field.
ASCENT OF CLINTON.
At a few rods distance from the Crawford House is the foot
of Clinton, which we continue to ascend for two or three miles,
until at its summit we are more than two thousand feet above
o0 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
the point of starting, and more than four thousand above the
sea. The path lies all the way through a wild forest, and is so
steep and winding that we often see the more advanced of the
party through the trees almost directly above our heads. Now
and then we pass a long piece of corduroy made of logs laid
closely together across the way, and forming a hard, but quite
rough path. At some points are cool springs of water issuing
from the sides of the path, where the ponies are accustomed to
rest for a moment, and quench their thirst. Occasionally the
way lies through a wet gulley three or four feet deep, which has
the appearance of being the bed of a small mountain stream,
and after a rain spatters our garments with a plentiful quantity
of mud. It is most interesting on this ascent to watch the ever
changing character of the trees and shrubs in their transition
from beech, and yellow birch, and sugar maple, and mountain
ash, and aspen poplar, and striped maple below, to white pine,
and hemlock, and white birch, and spruce, and balsam fir hung
with festoons of hair-like moss high up, every sort giving way
near the top to a kind of dwarf fir often so intertangled, that it
is possible to walk over the tops, as over moss. Just before
reaching the summit of Clinton, we pass through a region of
dead trees, which are supposed to have been killed by the intense cold of 1812, and the seasons, which followed until 1816,
when, it is believed, they remained frozen throughout the year,
even in summer.   Their trunks  and  branches have  been
bleached by the rains, and the winds, and they stand like weird
giants stretching out their ghost-like arms to guard the approach
to the enchanted regions above. At the height of 4,000 feet
we emerge from the forest, and find above nothing but scattered firs, hiding here and there in the crevices of the rocks.
YIEW rROM CLINTON.
The path lies a little to the north of the summit of Mt. Clinton, and as we wind around it over the bare rocks, the first
noble mountain view bursts upon our sigh. Almost directly
6U
61 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
before us, towards the east, is the conical summit of Kearsarge,
and apparently near it some little silver lakes with a blue setting of many mountains, and behind us we can discern Willard,
and the other mountains around the Notch, mottled here and
there with the shadows of passing clouds.
As we begin to descend to the narrow ridge, which joins this
mountain to the next, we gain a view of the nearer objects
beneath us. On the right, at a depth of two thousand feet, is
a vast forest through which winds the Mt. Washington River,
and beyond is a long range of giant hills, which, like these we
are on, seem marching in solemn procession towards the great
central shrine. On the left at a similar depth the Ammonoosuc
is seen threading the forest, and at last finding its way to the
open country in the distance. The first experience of real
mountain travel is gained as we slide down the rocks, and wind
along the bleak ridge, which connects Mt. Clinton with
MT. PLEASANT.
The path generally pursued passes around the southern side
of this mountain several hundred feet below its summit, although
there is one directly over, which the ponies by no means fancy
so that it is impossible to make them take it. As we pass
along the narrow path, we come to a delightful spring, where
we can, if we choose, drink from a glass kept there for the purpose. It is remarkable that both men and horses always drink
more upon the mountains than they do below, perhaps on account of the increased rapidity of evaporation.   In the vicinity
of this spring, as at other sheltered sunny spots along the path,
exquisite little spring flowers, such as anemones, and bluebells,
are found just opening in August. The season here resembles
the Arctic summer, the snow not disappearing till July, and
coming again early in September. During two months vegetation comes on with wonderful speed, and the whole cycle of
growth and fructification is completed. You must not allow
your pony to turn out of the beaten path to crop the tender
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
grass, as he desires, for often serious accidents are the result of
such yielding. Here, if he should lose his foot-hold you would
be precipitated a great distance down the side of the mountain.
Mt. Pleasant has a peculiarly rounded top, and presents a
beautiful appearance at a distance, whence probably its somewhat incongruous name, compared with those of all the others
of the patriot group. On the northern side are immense slides,
which are supposed to have occurred, like most of those among
the mountains, in the memorable storm of 1826. After passing around Mt. Pleasant we come to a more extended sort of
plain lying at the foot of
MT. FRANKLIN.
This is a very irregular flattened peak about a hundred feet
higher than the last, and the arduous ascent to its summit is an
excellent preparation for the ascent of Mt. Washington, by
which alone it is surpassed in difficulty.  It is almost fearful to
look up at the more advanced of our party winding along the
lofty crags far above our heads, but we soon climb the rocks in
safety and look down in turn upon those below us. The path
passes a short distance to the northwest of the summit, but
there is no danger in turning out a little way to the right, and
attaining the highest point. The view thence towards the southeast is extremely grand. Far to the south appear the four
beautiful peaks of Chocorua, the one to the right being higher
and more conical than the rest. Thousands of feet below us
stretches the interminable forest, like a carpeting of rich dark
grass. The mountain on the eastern side is almost perpendicular, and as we leave it behind we can see the long scar left by
a slide, which occurred one stormy night last summer.
MT. MONROE.
We are now approaching the two majestic peaks of Mt.
Monroe, which is inferior to Mt. Washington in height rather
than in symmetrical beauty. We pass around the south-eastern
side, several hundred feet below thb summit, over what we are
63 
WHITi  MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
now prepared to consider an easy path. Far down to the right
is the frightful abyss, known as "OAKr,'s GULF."   The other
side of this ravine is formed by the same range of mountains,
which farther back we observed across the wide valley approaching the central cluster. As we gaze down into its dizzy
depths, and see huge rocks scattered in confusion on the bottom,
and perpendicular craggy precipices forming the sides, we cannot help being impressed with a feeling of awe. Sometimes
clouds are entrapped in this fathomless gulf, and whirl round
and round in vain attempts to escape.  On the northern side of
Mt. Washington is a similar ravin e called the "Great Gulf."
APPRIOACH TO MT. WASHINGTON.
Winding around Monroe, we gain our first view of Mt.
Washington towering nearly fifteen hundred feet above us. It
appears to consist of an irregular pyramidal pile of shattered
brown stones, standing as steep as they can, without rolling
down.  Too often this long-expected view is lost on account of
the almost perpetual mists which surround the summit. Before
reaching the foot of the cone, we must pass over an extended
plateau, which is at first quite smooth, and allows the horse to
trot for a short distance.  Nearer the mountain, however, it is
scattered with innumerable boulders, which appear to have been
deposited here at the same time that the pyramid of similar stones
before us was thrown up. The path winds among these rocks,
and is occasionally pointed out by small heaps of stones piled up
for that purpose many years ago.  This plain extends a long
way to the right, and is nearly a mile above the sea. Little
patches of coarse grass and small ponds are found here and
there upon it. In the western part is a beautiful sheet of water
called the "Lake of the Clouds," from which the Amnmoncosuc
issues. Leaving the path, and passing along the plain toward
the east, we should come to the most wonderful of all the gorges
in this region,-Tucekerman's RIavine.
64 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
ASCENT OF THE LAST PEAK.
The ascent of the cone of Mt. Washington is made, at least,
by parties from the Crawford House, on the southwestern side,
where the rocks appear to start almost perpendicular, although
in reality less steep than on the southern side. The path appears to have been formed by rolling the great blocks and slabs
of stone on each side, leaving a partially clear way between.
Up this we wind slowly to the very summit.   The rocks are of
the most uninteresting character, consisting principally of a dull
brown mica-slate. During the first part of the way, a great
abundance of a delicate Alpine plant, with small white flowers
is observed among the rocks. It is curious to discuss the manner in which the seeds of the plant were first brought here, for
it is entirely unlike any other plant found in this part of the
world. But at any rate it is here, and detracts very much from
the gloominess of the scene. Higher up there is nothing but
bleak bare rock. Near the top at a comparatively level place,
we leave the ponies to stand shivering in the cold with nothing
to eat, till we are ready to return. If you propose to pass the
night-on the mountain, you must have another horse sent up,
when you are ready to return. The few steps which separate
us from the top are easily passed over on foot, the ponies being
left here merely for the convenience of the guides, so that they
shall not become mingled with those from other paths. A finger on a guide-board elevated upon a pile of stones points out
the path, the buildings on the summit being as yet hidden from
view.
THE SUMMIT.
The acre of comparatively level surface on the top of the
mountain is so completely covered with irregular angular rocks,
that one can scarcely find a smooth place to stand upon. The
building, which first appears in sight, is the "Tip-Top" House.
This is used at present as a dining room. A little to the east,
6*
65 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and somewhat below, is the "Summit" House, the first building ever erected on the mountain. Both of these have thick
walls of the native rock, and are very low, with roofs nearly flat
so as to present as little surface as possible to the fierce winds.
The Summit House was erected in 1852, by the united efforts
of Mr. Hall and Mr. Rosebrook, two farmers of Jefferson.  It
was commenced in June, and sufficiently completed towards the
close of July, as to form a comfortable shelter. It is bound
down to the mountain by several large cables, which pass over
the top of the roof. The interior is divided into two principal
rooms, each of which is heated by a stove. Around these fires
the shivering guests crowd, and present about the same appearance, as travellers in January stopping to warm themselves at a
country Inn. The thermometer does not perhaps indicate a
temperature below 50~, but the constant wind produces the
effect of even thirty degrees below that point. In the rear of
the main rooms are narrow dormitories, with berths arranged
along the wall, like those in the cabin of a steamboat. Above
are also other "sleeping-places" separated from the rooms below
by wooden slats. Every cubic inch of space within the build ing appears to be turned to some account. The tops of the
lower rooms are ceiled with cotton cloth, but the sides are form ed of rough stone walls, well pointed with mortar like a common
cellar wall. In deep recesses are good glass windows, increasing
very materially the comfort of the place. This and the "Tip Top" House, erected some years afterwards, together form a
hotel, at which we can stop as long as we choose. Neither does
it seem by any means a bad one, when we consider that every
foot of board, and every article of furniture has been brought
several miles up these steep paths on the backs either of men or
of horses. Stone and water are the only materials to be ob tained on the summit, a never-failing spring of the latter being
found a few rods north of the Summit House, a little down the
mountain. The expense of bringing up coal, added to its origi  nal cost, makes an aggregate of $40 a ton, and all articles of
66 
WHITB MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
food are obtained only by a corresponding outlay. We must
not, therefore, be surprised at the charge of $4 a day for our
board, if we choose to stay awhile. If the tourist wishes to
devote bis whole time to the view, a luncheon taken from the
hotel will make an excellent substitute for the dinner in the
Summit House. It has been proposed to erect a first class hotel
on the summit, and to connect it with the base of the mountain
by a regularly graded road. Perhaps then the accommodations
would be better, and the price lower, but there would be little
to satisfy the love of adventure in ascending Mt. Washington
over a Macadamized road, in a cushioned omnibus! It is by no
means to be lamented, by those, who enjoy the present method
of ascent, that the project has been abandoned for the present.
There are generally three parties arriving on the summit every
day, one from the Crawford House, one over Fabyan's Path,
and one from the Glen House. Quite a large number is generally stopping here, so that it is not unusual to meet a hundred
people on the top of the mountain in the middle of the day.
One of the pleasantest elements of the excursion is the manner
in which so many persons are thrown for one time into one family sympathizing in their common elevation above the rest of
mankind.
The view from the summit has already been described. After
remaining about two hours on the summit, we must prepare for
THE DESCENT.
Returning to the spot, where the ponies were left, we find
each one looking for his steed, and mounting with as much
speed, as the chilly wind, and the rough rock will allow. The
ladies generally walk down the first steep descent to the plain,
as it is much more difficult than the ascent. There is really no
danger however, as the ponies never take a step till they see
where they are going. The view is also much finer going down,
as our faces are now turned away from the steep side of the
mountain.  Especially is it beautiful on the right of Mt. Mon
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUII>.
roe, where we can trace the silver water of the Ammonoosue in
its windings through the forest far below.  Soon after reaching
the plain the party becomes scattered, and we wander on perhaps alone, greeting each solitary peak, like an old friend, as
we pass it, and arrive at last at the summit of Clinton. The
descent of this mountaina becomes somewhat tiresome, with its
interminable "corduroys," and its troublesome black flies, and
we are not sorry at last to discover the white piazza of the
Crawford House appearing through the trees.
ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON BY THE CARRIAGE ROAD.
Besides the regular bridle-path up the mountain from Gibb's,
there is an excellent and commodious carriage road, easily accessible from Gibb's and from Brabrook's. Few who ascend the
mountain are aware of its existence, and very few of those who
are aware of it, are at all familiar with the facilities thus presented for an easy and expeditious mode of overcoming the
difficulties of the mountain travel.
It strikes off from the main road about half way between
Gibb's and Brabrook's and follows up a branch of the Ammonoosuc. It is quite level, and, in fact, a much better road than
many a one traversed by coaches every day. Any one can
drive a two-horse team to "Cold Spring," which is only three
miles from the summit. Stables have been erected here, and
ponies for the remainder of the journey are now to be taken.
From this point the ascent is directly up the side of Mt. Wash ington, and is perhaps steeper than the other track.  But it has
none of that disagreeable, tireseme' corduroy road. One place
which they call "Jacob's Ladder," to a white cravat, and the
"Devil's," to men who patronise the guide's flask, is exceed ingly steep. But the guides, when belated, always take this
path.
The view on the ascent, though perhaps less extended than
on the longer path, is still very pleasing. On the one hand is
the wild, foaming Ammonoosuc, which rolls merrily along over
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WHITB MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
rapids and cataracts or stretches in broad, gravelly reaches across
your path; on the other hand the wooded heights stretch gently
up the sides of Mt. Washington with many an enchanting view
down the sloping vales.
CRAWFORD HOUSE TO PROFILE HousE.
This trip, like the last, is performed in stages, which leave
the Crawford House every morning about eight.  The distance
is not far from twenty-seven miles.  If you expect to proceed
through Franconia to Plymouth, and thence by rail, you had
better procure tickets for the whole stage route through to
Plymouth. There is an agent at the Crawford House, who
will sell you such tickets for $5. If you prefer a ticket to the
Flume House, five miles beyond the Profile House, it will cost
you $3. It is fifty cents less to the Profile House. There are
also stages leaving the Crawford House for Littleton, and the
Connecticut River railways, without stopping at Franconia.
After leaving the Crawford House, we descend into the forest
towards the northwest, in which we continue for several miles.
Occasionally an opening in the trees onf the right discloses the
giant forms of the White Mountains, and in one place we
observe the road turning to the right, over which carriages from
the Crawford House pass in order to reach Fabyan's Path. At
last we cross the Ammonoosuc, about four miles from the Notch,
and arrive at the Clearing, in which is
THE GIANT'S GRAvE.
This is a singular tumulus, rising -sixty feet high in the
midst of an extended cleared plain. From its summit there is
gained a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains.
Towards the east we behold Mt. Washington with all its noble
comnpeers in their order, on each side. The monster slides on
Mt. Pleasant have been imagined to resemble an Indian Chief
with a plume in his cap, and a tomahawk in his hand. This
resemblance is quite striking, and improves as we proceed
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farther and farther away. When, however, we attempt to see
his squaw sitting by the Chief's side, a much larger draught on
the imagination is required. But whether we recognize these
resemblances or not, the lengthened scars themselves, a thousand
feet in height, form a sufficiently engaging object of attention.
Grand as is the view from the Giant's Grave, we need not
leave it with such reluctance, as we should, were we not to
carry the picture with us for hours, as we ascend the hills to
Bethlehem. On the top of this mound a remarkable echo is
heard, when a horn is blown. Almost directly opposite the
Giant's Grave is the ruin of Fabyan's" Mt. Washington iHocuse,"
which was for several years the most famous hotel of this region,
but was at last unfortunately burned. From this point proceeds
Fabyan's Path to Mt. Washington. It is the oldest of all the
bridle paths, and was cut in 1821, by Ethan Allen Crawford,
who resided at the Rosebrook house near this place. For nearly
seven miles it proceeds over a comparatively level surface, till
it comes to the very foot of Mt. Washington.
WWHrITE MOUNTAIN HOUSE.
About half a mile farther we come to this hotel, on the site
of the old Rosebrook House, and kept at present by Mr. G.
T. BRABROOK. It is a very pleasantly situated, and quiet
House in the midst of an open tract of country. In the rear
is a fine view of the White Mountains, and in front, beyond the
Ammonoosuc, rises the lofty range which connects the Great
Notch with Franconia.
From this house a good carriage road has been built during the
last season to within about two miles of the summit of Mt.
Washington. A carriage runs over the road daily, in the season
of travel.  Ponies are taken for the last two miles.  The price
is the same as on the other routes. This is, undoubtedly, the
easiest and most leisurely way of making the ascent; but while
you escape the fatigue of the longer bridle-paths you also loose
many of the noble views which are thereby gained.
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
A carriage road has also been built to the summit of Mt.
Prospect, to which excursions are frequently made. This is
also an excellent starting place for excursions along the Ammonoosuc.  Mr. Brabrook has horses ready at all times for the
accommodation of his guests. The price of board is here $2
per day.
AMMONOOSUC FALLS.
A short distance farther, on the left of the road, are the
famous falls of the Ammonoosuc.   This stream is said to be
the wildest and most rapid of all the rivers of New Hampshire,
falling more than a mile in its course of thirty miles, from Mt.
Washington to the Connecticut river.  It has many cascades,
some of which are higher than this, but none more attractive.
Here the water issues from a forest of evergreens, and leaps
down thirty feet over broad steps of granite. The rocks on
each side seem laid in courses, as if by the hand of a mason.
When the amount of water is large it rushes into the pool below
with such force as to throw it into heaps several feet in height.
This cascade unites the wildness of Nature with a close resemblance to the -nice workmanship of Art, in a most surprising
and beautiful manner. It is so near the road that it is not
necessary to leave the coach in order to enjoy its full effect;
although one might pass several hours very pleasantly in a
ramble along the banks of the river.
AMMONOOSUC lBRIDGE.
After proceeding several miles with the Ammonoosuc on our
right, we suddenly cross it by a strong wooden bridge. The
history of the bridges, which have been erected here, as narrated by Mr. Willey, is somewhat interesting. When Bethlehem was first settled in 1790, under the name of Lord's Hill,
Capt. Rosebrook cut a road from his house through the forest
about twelve miles to the new settlement.   A log bridge was
thrown across the river, which was however soon washed away
by the spring freshets At last the newly formed town of
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Bethlehem voted in 1800 to build a bridge at this place at a
cost of $390. There was such a scarcity of provisions at this
time, that the workmen were forced to live on milk porridge.
BETHLEHIEM.
Two or three miles over gently rising ground brings us to
Bethlehem, a beautiful airy village, about seventeen miles from
the Notch, famous for its view of the whole range of the White
Mountains. You feel a greater satisfaction in surveying them
from this place, than from any other point, where the view is so
comprehensive. Towards the north west are some noble white
marble mountains in Vermont, appearing clothed in a garment
of snow from base to summit. This place has grown from the
little settlement of "Lord's Hill" of seventy years ago, into a
flourishing village containing two fine churches, five large sawmills, and one or two extensive starch factories.
FIRsT VIEW or FRANCONIA.
From Bethlehem there are two roads to Franconia Notch.
Whichever we take, we must ascend a high and toilsome hill,
but the-view from the summit repays us for all our delay.
Directly in front appears the grand range of the Franconia
Mountains, with the head of Lafayette standing majestically
above them all, and on the right of it the dark opening of the
Notch. This view will be described more fully hereafter.
We are now obliged to descend from our lofty position into
the valley of the south branch of the Ammonoosuc, which we
cross and begin the slow ascent to the Notch. Winding through
its shady ravines we come at last to the Profile House.
FRANCONIA NOTCH AND ITS NEIGHIIBORHOOD.
The Franconia Range of hills though properly belonging to
the White Mountain Range, is still so distinct and peculiar in
its character as to deserve a lengthened notice.  The beauties
of the surrounding scenery entitle it to all the admiration which
the tourist bestows upon it.  Indeed by old habitues of the
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WHITF MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
region, Franconia is considered the gem of the mountains.
There is not the overpowering grandeur, which belongs to the
White Mountains, while the greater variety of interesting objects amply compensates for the absence of more stately scenes.
The quiet beauty, and the repose of Nature in the Franconia
Notch may well introduce the traveller to the higher sublimity
beyond, or refresh him as he retires from the powerful influence
which he has felt before the majesty of the North. There is a
tranquility in the former feeling, and a sense of relief in the
latter, which prepares or soothes the mind. Here is rest; here
is comfort. Beneath the shadow of these solemn mountains,
the weary soul finds a calm composure. Selfishness and worldliness are rebuked. The most thoughtless are hushed to reflection, and a better understanding of life grows up in the midst
of Nature's grand instructions. We do not suppose our tourist
is in quest of mere pleasure; we believe him to be a better and
nobler man or woman than to spend his days thus. He is open
to every good influence, that will make life more rich and
beautiful and fair. There is no better influence than that of
which he will be sensible, in the still retreat of Franconia.
The PROFILE HOUSE, a new and large hotel of the very best
and most comfortable accommodations, is situated in the immediate vicinity of Echo Lake, Cannon Mountain, Eagle Cliff,
The Profile, and Mount Lafayette. It is on a level plain, a
few acres in area, in the bosom of the hills. It has two
approaches, on the north, from Bethlehem and Littleton, on the
south, from the Flume House and the Pemigewasset Valley.
Of the approach from Littleton we have already written. From
Bethlehem, over the road from Crawford's, the approach is
sometimes startling in its effect. The views shift with great
rapidity, at one time are wholly concealed, at another break
forth upon the traveller with surprising abruptness. Going up
the slow ascent of the tedious hill east of Bethlehem, one may
think it tiresome and dull, and that the vaunted glories of the
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region exist only in the imagination of the admirer. Bat on
reaching the top of the hill a magnificent prospect stretches
before him. Across the Franconia valley rise the lofty summits
of Lafayette, with his seamed and scarred sides, and the kindred
mountains, standing like sentinels to guard the pass against
profane intruders. Their irregularity is most picturesque, while,
at the same time, they are most finely grouped. They stand
out in most august proportions, relieved by the dark blue of the
clear summer sky. We ride down the hill into the twilight
stillness of the forest between us and our destination, with
something of reverence and awe mangled with the transports of
our admiration.
Ecio LAKE.
In the woods, to the north of the hotel, a short distance from
the road, over which we have just travelled, lies embosomed,
EcHo LAKE.   It is a sheet of water of great depth and transparency, and as it sleeps there in its secure repose, seems the
very type of rest, All around rise the green hills of Lhe region,
Lafayette lifting his rocky summit high above them all. The
setting is appropriate for this exquisite gem. One never wearies
of the quiet scene. At little boat with paddies conveys the
passenger to the middle of the Lake, and to the different points
where the best views may be obtained. Hlere are the centres
of the most marvellous echoes. The sounds of a tin horn, blown
with skill, will be returned in oft repeated notes like the
sweetest music. The human voice, shouting distinctly, will be
re-echoed with wonderful effect, as. though the invisible inhabitants of the hills were holding a colloquy with "the babbling
gossip of the air." The report of a cannon fired on the shore
will reverberate like peals of thunder among the fastnesses of
the mountains. In the stillness of morning or in the quiet
of the evening at the sunset hour, the Lake is the resort of those
who best know and can appreciate the wonder of the place.
The wind is whist; the waters sleep; the mountains are silent;
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the purple glow is on all the trees and rocks. Then is the time to
wake the slumbering echoes, and hear the many voices that reply.
Hle that has not visited this lovely spot at this bewitching time,
does not understand half the magical, secret beauty which
lingers around Echo Lake.
EAGLE CLIFF.
Almost directly overhanging the hotel, on the north, is
EAGLE CLIFF.  It is a huge, columnar crag, separated from
the crest of the mountain, and rising, perpendicularly, with
jagged rocks, seemingly ready to topple from its place in widespread ruin beneath. This precipitous cliff derives its name
from the fact that it was chosen for an eyrie by a pair of eagles
a few seasons ago. They are sometimes to be seen circling
around its summit, and looking down, as though with lordly
disdain, upon the gazing crowds below, who have invaded their
solitude. No prouder position could be chosen for a habitation
by this noble bird. It stands out in the picture a most prominent and majestic peak. Approached from the south, it is
finely portrayed upon the background of the sky. A point
about three-fo/urths of a mile distant, upon the border of Ferrin's
pond furnishes the finest view. Its lofty crags are distinctly
seen within a frame-work of deep green, formed by the luxuriant
birches and vines that attempt to clamber up its sides. At
sunrise or sunset, when all is dark in the valley, the rosy light
softens the rude outline, and it shines out in clear brightness
above the mists below. As you sit on the piazza of the hotel,
the cliff looms before you in gigantic proportions, a study for
the present, and a glorious memory for the future to recall.
PROFILE MOUNTAIN.
Directly opposite Eagle Cliff, on the south side of the Notch,
rises CANNON, or, as we prefer to call it, PROFILE MOUNTAIN.
The former name is given, on account of a supposed resemblance
to a cannon, which a rock upon its summit exhibits. The latter
more appropriately belongs to it, since it bears upon the south
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ern extremity ef its rest, the " Great Stone Face." The
mountain is easy of ascent, by means of a foot-path, which
seems to lead almost directly from the front of the hotel to the
summit. The view from the platform of denuded rock above,
down the valley of the Pemigewasset surpasses description.
The silvery stream, the quiet forests, the verdant meadows, the
placid lakes, the clustering villages, unite in a picture of enchanting loveliness. The surrounding peaks, and the towering
heights of Washington and its peers, with the softly swelling
hills sloping away to the south, present all that one can imagine
of the grand and of the beautiful in mountain scenery. A
visit to Franconia is incomplete without the ascent of Profile
Mountain. An outlay of a few dollars would complete an
excellent saddle-path to its summit.
CASCADE.
Immediately behind the Profile House there is a cascade,
which, from the facility with which it may be reached by the
tourist, deserves our notice. A path, entering the woods in the
rear of the old Lafayette House, and following the aqueduct
which supplies the hotel with water, conducts us in a short and
pleasant walk to a brook, which, when swollen by a recent rain,
presents a succession of cascades that will amply repay a visit.
The bed of the brook lies for a long distance over a shelving
ledge of sufficient extent to impress one adequately with the
gigantic frame-work of our granite hills. This feature of the
scene, together with the charming glimpses of Echo Lake and
the surrounding mountains which are caught in the ascent, will
render a visit to this cascade pleasant at any time. But only
after a heavy rain, or amid melting snows, is it seen to advantage, and one will often desire some such arrangement for displaying its magnificent  capabilities as exists, to credit Mr.
Curtis' Lotus-Eating, at the Catskill Falls.
MIT. LAFAYETTE
is but five hundred feet below Mt. Washington in height, and
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the view from its summit, is thought by many to equal, and even
surpass that from its rival's crest. A good foot-path leads up
its rocky sides, and the persevering lover of nature, who is not
afraid to make exertion, and is willing to expend his strength,
will be most abundantly rewarded for his labors. At one time
horses were kept in readiness at the hotel stables for the ascent
of this lofty peak, but for some unknown reason they have
not been used of late.  It is to be hoped, that the enterprising
proprietors of the hotels will " organize " some permanent arrangement for the convenience of the numerous visitors, who
would desire to enjoy the prospect afforded them from the summit of this mountain.*  "Lafayette is distinguished over its
fellows," says a recent writer upon the charms of this region,
"not only by his height, but also by the rocky bareness of his
peaked summit, that descends with converging rows of ravines,
and hemlock-topped cliffs into an immense verdant basin presented toward us. In fine weather, the dry rocks of these
ravines shine like bars of silver, and after heavy rains, they
glisten with the torrents disappearing into the vast shadowy
basin below." There is upon the mountain, located on one of
its most inaccessible points, a strange looking stone of large
size and unusual form. It was named by those who discovered
it, "The Altar," from a fancied resemblance which they discerned to the old Runic remains of a similar character. It is
based upon a granite pile, and seemingly intended for purposes
of sacrifice. It is more than probable, that it may have been
used by some Indian "medicine-man" jn his solitary incantations and rites.  We might well imagine, how he would separate himself from his tribe, and spend the day upon the summit
of this lonely peak, offering upon the altar, his sacrifice to the
* We are informed that the present enterprising company, owning
the Hotels, has made arrangements to have the bridle-path re-graded,
and that ponies will be furnished for those wishing to ascend. The
ascent can be made in about three hours. The price for pony and guide
is $3.00.
7*
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WHITE MOUNTAIN OUIDE.
Gods whom he worshipped. The mountains have always been
sacred places. Olympus has its classic fame as the seat of Jove;
Sinai, Horeb, and Carmel have their Divine associations;
Olivet is held in affectionate veneration, as there seem to linger
even yet among its wooded heights, the accents of the Saviour's
voice of prayer. Lafayette might well awe the rude worshippers of the forest and the wild, and teach them of the presence
of the Great Spirit.
But the great marvel and pride of this region is the
PROFILE.
As we walk down the road to the south of the hotel, we soon
come to a rude bench by the way side, and, attracted by the
guide board above it, inscribed with the single, simple word,
Profile," as we direct our eyes to the point which it indicates,
the huge face with all its features thoroughly delineated, stands
out in bold outline, before our sight.  There it is, a collossal,
completely symmetrical profile, looking down upon the valley
from its lofty height, perfectly distinct and clear. The tourist
may possibly think that this, like other wonderful stories of
which veracious Guide-books tell, may be a myth, and that the
similarity may exist only in the fancy of the writer. But no!
This time, at least, he will acknowledge, that there is no delusion. Nature has carved out, with the most accurate chiselling, this astonishing sculpture. Every portion of the face is
there, upon the solid mountain steep. There is the stern, projecting, massive brow, as though stamped with the thought and
wisdom  of centuries.  The  nose is straight, finely cut, and
sharply outlined. The thin, senile lips are parted, as though
about to utter the thunders of majestic speech. The chin is
well thrown forward, with exact proportionate length, betokening the hard, obstinate character of the " Old Man," who has
faced, with such unmoving steadiness, the storms of ages.
The Sphynx of the Desert must acknowledge its inferiority to
this marvellous face upon the mountain. When seen in the
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morning, as the mist:float up from the valley beneath and along
its ponderous featu, s, it looms into larger proportions still, and
with the heavy  ray  beard, which sometimes settles upon its
chin, and dow  its breast, it eemst like the face of some hoary
patriarch of antiquity.  We think that it is Henry  Ward
Beecher, who makes the remark, that "as men are accustomed
to hang out before their shop doors certain signs, to designate
their respective occupations, so here God has sculptured this
great Face, to show that in these regions, he makes MEN."
"It is not advisable," says one of the admirers of the Old
Man of the Mountain, "to go to take your first look at him, when
the sun lights up the chasm of his granite cheek, and the cavernous mystery of his bent brow. Go to him, when, in the
solemn  light of evening,  the  mountain  heaves up from the
darkening lake its vast wave of luxuriant foliage. Sit on one
of those rocks by the road side, and  look, if you can, without
awe, at the Granite Face, human in its lineaments, supernatural
in size and position, weird-like in its shadowy mystery, but its
sharp outline wearing an expression of mortal sadness, that gives
it the most fascinating interest." It was doubtless an object
of veneration to theboriginal inhabitants.  Various traditionary tales are yet extant, respecting the superstitious homage
once paid to it by the Indian tribes who frequented the locality.
Relics of their life, and singular utensils of a former generation have been found near it. To the whites, however, it has
been little known, till within the last forty years. In the early
part of the present century, the road that passes along this way
was laid out, and in clearing the land of the trees that impeded
the path, the profile was discovered. Since that time, it has
been an object of the most absorbing interest. The genius of
Hawthorne has embalmed it in our literature, and his story of
"The Great Stone Face," can only be read appreciatively beneath its shadow.  We  give a view of the "Old  Man."  It
does not, however, do justice to his venerable appearance, and
the traveller will find the reality for excelling the image.
79 
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I
pi
View of the Old Man of the Mountain.
-- -- --
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
To those who are curious in exploration, the opportunity is
easily improved of ascending by a foot path to the point above
the Profile.  It has been ascertained,  that the height of the
old man is very nearly fifteen hundred feet above the level of
the little lake below it, and that the length of the face is from
sixty to eighty feet. In the many conflicts with the elements
which it has endured, it has been roughened and scarred.   But
from the road, no such appearance is presented, except through
a telescope, and the face appears fair and smooth. The precipice, of which it forms the extremity, is not unlike the Palisades
in appearance. It extends for nearly two miles along the escarpment of the mountain, and is a prominent part of the
scenery of the section. The Profile itself undergoes many
changes according to the point of observation. It changes from
its severe facial outline to a jagged, and, apparently shapeless
mass of rocks, or to a face with flat forehead, or with a huge,
Roman nose, or to the unmeaning, and retreating countenance
of some wild animal. It is only at the place where the guideboard is erected, that the Profile is to be most distinctly seen.
One can spenrid an hour or two no more profitably than by gazing upon its fascinating, and wonderful lineaments, and he will
return to look upon it once more, that it may be the last remembrance, ere he bids farewell to this delightful spot.
PROFILE LAKE.
Immediately below the Face, as'though Nature would provide
for her creation an appropriate mirror, nestles the beautiful
sheet of water, known  as FERRIN'S POND.  Why not call it
by a better and more appropriate name? Let it be baptized
PROFILE LAKE, or, if one desires a more fanciful title-THE
OLD MAN'S  MIRROR.   The more prosaic call it, the Old Man's
Washbowl! By whatever name it may be called, no appellation will ever detract from, or add to its simple loveliness.  It
lies there, surrounded by rich rolling forests, and above it the
precipitous mountain! Its crystal depths reflect the overhang
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ing trees, and its bright expanse smiles joyously in the sunlight.
The very finest trout live in its waters, as though only the
choicest and most delicate of fish were suited to inhabit such a
pure abode. We cannot help thinking, how the Greek love of
the beautiful would have peopled all this region with the creations of its sacred mythology. Even the cold fancy of occidental nature, warms beneath the genial influence, and breaks
forth in the most demonstrative admiration.
Proceeding along the road, to the southward of the Profile
House, about three and a half miles distant from the Hotel, we
arrive at
TjE:  BAsIN.
The waters of the Pemigewasset, flowing from Profile Lake,
after tumbling in many a beautiful cascade over the rocks that
lie in their course, find their way with many meanderings, to this
point near the road side.  Here they fall over a rocky ledge, a
few feet in height, into a deep hollow in the solid granite.
The diameter of this rocky basin, formed by the continual action
of the water and mingled stones and boulders from above, is
about thirty feet in its shortest width, and forty feet in its
longest. Its circumference is not far from sixty feet. Its depth
is of such proportions-ordinarily of fifteen feet-as to form a
by no means shallow bowl, which is always filled with cold,
pure, and pellucid water. On one side, the rocks jut over the
mimic depths, forming a dam for the flowing stream, thus producing the most exquisite of waterfalls. The embankment
surrounding it, is covered, in the proper season with green
mosses and sweet flowers, with their delicate bells
"Tolling their perfume on the passing air."
At the other extremity, where the delivered waters, free from
their temporary imprisonment make their way out, singing as
they go, is a fissure in the rock, forming another little water
fall. Upon one side is a peculiar conformation of the granite,
which by a slight stretch of the fancy, can be said to resemble
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a titanic leg and foot, scooped out and polished by the overflowing current. As you look down into these transparent waters, the bed of the Basin can be distinctly seen, so fair and
clear is their emerald purity.   One is almost tempted to fling
aside his outer garments, and plunge into this luxurious and
delicious bath.  It is certainly fit for the ablutions of a goddess.
There is a peculiar and almost magical charm about the Basin,
which enchains you to its margin, and will not let you go free.
You are obliged at last to tear yourself away with many regrets
that the time of your sojourn amid these beautiful haunts of
Nature is so brief.  But
"A thing of beauty is a joy foreoer,"
and your recollection will often recur to these distant scenes, as
you live over again in delighted memory, the joys of other days.
CAscADE,s.
A rude bridge of logs is thrown across the brook at the outlet of the Basin, more for purposes of convenience, than as an
enhancement of the beauty of the spot. Crossing this, and
following up the stream, for about two hundred rods, one discovers a cascade of the very sweetest loveliness. The waters
-fall over the rocks in beautiful sheets of foam, and, with the
banks lined with the richest foliage, the little stream goes on its
way rejoicing.  The majority of travellers do not explore this
region, but are contented with a passing glance at the Basin.
The best way to enjoy these scenes, is to ramble about at one's
own sweet will, and meet with surprises at every step, as Nature
presents her pictures. Let no one forget' to examine the course
of the little stream now before him.  Ile will find all along its
way, the most numerous objects to give him pleasure and satisfaction.
A mile or two farther, and we reach the
FLUE3E HIOUSE.
No site can be more full of beauty, than that, which is occupied by this commodious hotel.  Directly in front is Alt. Liberty,
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with its fancied resemblance to the profile of Geo. Washington,
closing the view of the " forest primeval," with its shades of
rich green foliage, its quiet groves, and its soft and pleasant
paths.  On the north is the picturesque Notch, with all its surroundings in bold outline. From the southern piazza, the whole
Pemigewasset valley is in sight, unequalled for the variety
which the wide prospect exhibits. No one can sit on this piazza
at the close of day, to watch the glories of the sunset, and note
the charming effects produced on " hill and dale, and pleasant
intervale," without becoming a more kindly and better man.
The sweet voices of Nature are to his soul full of gratitude and
praise.
THE FLUME AND THE CASCADES.
In the neighborhood of the Flume House, are the three chief
remaining objects of interest at the Franconia mountains.
These are the FLUME, the CASCADE and the PooL. The former
is in a south easterly direction from the hotel, about three
quarters of a mile distant. A good road leads to the lower
part of the CASCADE below the Flume. Thence, a foot path
leads up the course of the stream. Crossing and recrossing at
intervals, clambering up the sides of steep rocks, again following the bed of the stream itself, one finds at every forward
movement, something to admire. The cascade is a continuous
fall-a sheet of molten silver, on the smooth and polished rock
-of more than six hundred feet. The descent is very gradual,
with occasional abruptness. With the murmur of its waters in
the ear, and its marvellous beauty in the eye, we ascend to the
Flume itself. No more wild and striking view can be imagined.
For seven or eight hundred feet and more, the stream pours its
volume along a rocky bed, which breaks it up into numberless
waterfalls, between two mural precipices, that lift themselves on
either side, crowned with the abundant foliage of the forest.
The height of these walls, in from sixty to seventy feet.  The
width between them is a general average of twenty feet, except
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at the upper end.  liere the walls approach each other.   Suddenly contracting to about ten feet, they hold suspended between them, about mid way up their sides, a huge boulder of
granite. So nicely is it adjusted, and so slight appears its hold,
that one would think the slightest touch sufficient to push it
from its resting place into the ravine below.  By what process
it has fallen into its present position-indeed in what manner
this remarkable fracture of the rock has taken place-is a puzzle
for scientific heads. Its presence greatly adds to the wildness
of the scene. We are content with that, and do not care to
speculate about its cause. In general, one can follow the stream
through this narrow gorge-not without trepidation as he passes
beneath the suspended mass-and by climbing the rocky heights,
can obtain a capital view from above. The trunk of a tree lies
across the chasm, forming a temporary and precarious bridge.
We would suggest to the proprietors of the hotels, to fell one or
two more trees, and give a safer foot-hold to those adventurers,
who are desirous of seeing all the wonders of the place. In
the Autumn, when the forests are rich in purple, crimson, and
gold, or in the-winter, when the ravine is filled with snow, and
icicles hang from the cliffs, and the little stream bursts through
its partial confinement, the scene must be one of great grandeur.
In the luxuriance of summer, it is more fresh and glowing, the
verdure of the woods relieving the nakedness of the rocks.  In
all seasons, it is a place for study, for reflection and delight.
The scene most forcibly suggests to one the following lines
from Shelley's Cenci, (Act 3, scene 1).  It would seem as if
the Poet had in mind the Flume itself.  It is the speech of
Beatrice when they  are plotting the destruction of Count
Francesco.
"But I remember
Two miles on this side of the fort, the road
Crosses a deep ravine;'tis rough and narrow,
And winds with short turns down the precipice;
And in its depth there is a mighty reck,
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View of the Flume.
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Which has, from unimaginable years,
Sustained itself with terror and with toil
Over a gulf, and with the agony
With which it clings, seems slowly coming down;
Even as a wretched soul hour after hour
Clings to the mass of life; yet, clinging, leans;
And, leaning, makes more dark the dread abyss
In which it fears to fall: beneath this crag
Huge as despair, as if in weariness,
The melancholy mountain yawns -below,
You hear but see not an impetuous torrent
Raging among the caverns, and a bridge
Crosses the chasm; and high above there grow,
With intersecting trunks, from crag to crag,
Cedars, and yews, and pines, whose tangled hair
Is matted in one solid roof of shade
By the dark ivy's twine. At noonday here
'Tis twilight and at sunset blackest night."
Returning from the Flume, we find the path to the
POOL
directly in front of the Hotel, leading straight into the woods.
A walk of three quarters of a mile, beneath the overhanging
branches brings us to this famous and wonderful formation.
A deep excavation, as though hewn by human hands, in the
granite, holds the waters, which enter by a cascade from the
upper, and escape through  an opening in the mass of rocks at
the lower extremity. The width of the Pool is about a hundred
and fifty feet; its depth about forty feet. From the brink of
the wall above to the surface below, the distance is very nearly
one hundred and fifty feet. It is a place of wondrous attraction. It mnay not have the charm of the Basin, but it is more
secluded, and the sight of it is an ample reward for the toils of
the way, if toils they may be called. The rambling wood path
and the stroll along its pleasant way can never be toilsome to
the true lover of Nature, even though so worthy an object of
admiration as is the Pool, were not at its termination.
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HIOTELS.
We cannot close our notice of this locality, without recommending to the tourist the comforts and conveniences of the two
Hotels, which are established here. Both are unsurpassed in
their character.  If faithful attention, clean rooms, - such as
Isaac Walton loved -a profuse table, and beauty of locality,
can furnish a desirable resting place for the traveller, these are
all to be found in this favored spot. The Houses are under
the management of one Company, styled "The  Flume  and
Franconia Hotel Company." Their property embraces the two
I-Iotels with their out-buildings, horses, carriages, etc., and about
fifteen hundred acres of land. The Company is chartered by
the State and the property is valued at $150,000. The Directors are well and favorably known in the business world; Hon.
JosEPH A. GIrLMORE of Concord has been chosen President.
The mere mention of his name  is a sufficient guarantee  that
these Hotels will maintain their long established reputation.
The Profile House is under the sole direction of HIRAMI
BELL, Esq., whose reputation, as a landlord, is second to none.
Large experience and a perfect knowledge of the mountains and
of the wants of travellers has gained for Mr. Bell a reputation,
which, we are confident, future seasons will extend.
The Flume House is under the superintendance of W. H.
DUNTON, Esq., long and favorably known in northern New
York.   The "Flume House" has always been a favorite tarrying place for those accustomed to spend a long time among the
mountains. In a small chapel, near by, religious services are
commonly held on Sunday.
Long may these Hotels continue in prosperity and success,
to be remembered  by the sojourner under their roofs, with
grateful and pleasing recollection!
NOTE. We cannot too strongly recommend the necessity to
the tourist of sufficient  and water proof clothing.  The weather
is so uncertain among the mountains, that it is well to be pre
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WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
pared to defy the elements. The coolness of the atmosphere
renders extra clothing necessary, while rubber boots, capes for
ladies, and overcoats for gentlemen will enable one to enjoy the
scenery whatever aspect the face of the sky may wear.
Having now completed the circuit of the mountain region,
the traveller may retrace his steps to Bethlehem, and, taking
the cars at Littleton, may return home by any of the various
routes hereafter described.  Or he may  proceed through the
lovely valley of the Pemigewasset to Plymouth, and thence by
cars to Boston, visiting Lake Winnipisaukee on the way.
We propose now to give the more detailed account of the
routes to the White Mountain region.
ROUTES EROM NEW YORE TO BOSTON.
I. NEW YOnK TO BOSTON, via Stonington and Providence;
on Long Island Sound by Steamboat to Stonington; thence to
Providence and Boston by rail, arriving at Boston at 5 o'clock,
A. M. Fare $4.00
The Steamers PLYMOUTHii Rock and C. VANDERBILT, leave
their pier at New-York late in the afternoon, making the passfage to Stonington in seven hours, and in less time, with favorable tides. These boats are universally acknowledged to be the
safest, most comfortable, and quickest upon the sound, and the
Stonington route is deservedly popular. The Sound boats all
follow the same channel, and consequently, the same views are
presented from all. At one o'clock, A. M., a safe arrival is
made at Stonington, where a train is in waiting for the immediate conveyance of passengers to Boston.
STONINGTON is a busy place, engaged to a considerable extent
in the whale and other fisheries. Its hardy sailors are to be
found all over the world, and its ships are generally successful.
8*
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Thence the road passes through the entire State of Rhode Island in a diagonal direction. The towns of Westerly, Charles.
town, South Kingstown, North Kingstown, East Greenwich, and
Warwick, lie along the route. Rhode Island is filled with
manufacturing villages, whose names it is not necessary to give.
Wherever there is a stream powerful enough to turn a water
wheel, there will quickly be found a little mill, the centre of a
hamlet. Nd State in the Union is so industrious in proportion
to its size. Small, but smart, is " Little Rhody."
PROVID)ENCE is one of its capitals, for, like her sister State,
Connecticut, and for a similar reason, Rhode Island has two
capitals, and is equally well governed. Providence is the
wealthiest city in New England, according to its size, with pos.
sibly the exception of New Bedford. If its public spirit were
commensurate with its wealth, it would be the handsomest city
in its section of the country. But it has no City Hall, the
State House is an inferior building, and is used as a Court
House during the recess of the General Assembly, and the
Churches are inexpensive structures of clumsy architecture.
It contains some elegant private residences upon the high land
on the easterly side of Providence river, where also are situated,
commanding a fine and wide prospect, the buildings of BROWN
UNIVERSITY.   A  celebrated School, under the direction of the
Society of Friends, and an Asylum for the Insane are also located here. The United States Government has recently erected a substantial granite building, for the uses of the Post Office,
Custom House, and the United States Courts, furnishing accommodations for these purposes, not surpassed in the country.
Nowhere in the United States are the streets kept in so good
order, or so well lighted as in Providence, and no place is more
orderly and quiet. On a bright day the city presents a brilliant appearance. Elegant equipages fill the streets, and the
public promenades are crowded with throngs of pedestrians.
A great amount of manufacturing is carried on in iron, steam
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engines, screws, jewelry, and various articles of ornament and
use. A visit to the different manufacturing establishments is
full of curious interest. Connections may here be made by
rail with Worcester, Hartford and Bristol, and by boat with
Fall River and Newport. Various places of resort are to be
found on either shore of Narragansett Bay.
In the early morning the train rushes through Pawtucket, a
bustling village, the seat of Dunnell's famous Print Works;
Attleborough, a place of extensive manufacturing in jewelry;
Mansfield, where connection may be made with Taunton and
New Bedford; Foxboro', Sharon, Canton, where a massive
viaduct crosses the county road; West Roxbury, and Roxbury,
to Boston, arriving at 51 o'clock, A. WI.   A comfortable nap
and a good breakfast may be enjoyed at the Winthrop, Adams,
Marlboro', Tremont, Revere, Parker, or American House,
before the cars start for the North.
It is needless in this connection, to speak of the numberless
attractions of the city of BOSTON.   Its splendid Common,  its
spacious State House, its well kept streets, its elegant and comfortable dwellings, its fine stores, its hospitable hotels, its large
libraries, its cultivated society, are all too well known to demand
a word of commendation. Its soil, too, is redolent of liberty.
Griffin's Wharf, near which the Bostonians made their Tea with
the harbor for a tea-pot; State street, the scene of the Boston
Massacre; the great Tree on the Common, beneath whose
branches the citizens met to concert their plans; Brattle St.
Church, with a cannon ball imbedded in its side, are suggestive
of the great struggle of the Revolution, whose first beginnings
were made here. Bunker Hill Monument is but a mile distant;
Cambridge, with Harvard University, the Washington Elm and
Headquarters, and MIt. Auburn Cemetery, is half an hour's
ride; Dorchester Heights still show the ruins of the old fortifications, which made the city untenable for the British troops,
while Concord and Lexington are within visiting distance with
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out great delay. The city of the Puritans, though a city of
"notions," is still the chief city of New England and has well
earned the title of the " Athens of America."
II.  NEW YORK TO BOSTON, via Newport and Fall River, on
Long Island Sound by steamboat, from Fall River by rail,
arriving at Boston at 5:30, A. M.
By this route you leave New York at the usual time by either
of the fine steamers of the Fall River line-the METROPOLIS, or
the EMPIRE STATE.  This line of travel extends through the
whole length of Long Island Sound, and a part of Narraganset
Bay. The distance is but ten or fifteen miles farther, the time
and fare the same.   The advantage of this route is that opportunity is afforded for a good night's rest on board the boat, and
for the passage north from Boston without material detention.
The disadvantage would be for passengers liable to sea-sickness
that there is more open sea to be traversed, and Point Judith,
with the "much-sounding"  waves  that beat upon  it to be
doubled. The boat arrives at Newport, an hour or two before
dawn. This far-famed resort for pleasure-seekers requires no
comment from us. The long-rolling surf and the white beeches,
the ship-breaking rocks on the indented shore, the wide stretch
of the Atlantic, are things not to be described.   The dilletante
and elegant may spend their days here in fashionable ennui,
but the lover of nature will gratefully live in the midst of these
enchanting scenes. The climate is soft and salubrious through
the whole year. Excellent hotels open their hospitable doors.
The facilities for sea-bathing are sufficiently numerous. The
student of military science can visit Fort Adams, thought
impregnable till the use of steam in war vessels has made
fortifications of this kind useless. The antiquarian can puzzle
his brains over the " Old Stone Mill," and be no wiser for his
labors.  The geologist will find a coal formation to explore and
explain. The historical student may gratify his tastes by
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searching the traces of revolutionary conflicts, and the visits of
the Northmen. Subjects of study and pleasure are in every
direction.
BRISTOLiS a maritime town engaged in considerable trade.
FALL RIVER, where the cars are in waiting, is a manufacturing
town, of some importance on Mount HIope Bay.  Mount Rope
is seen in the immediate neighborhood. Beyond, the route is
through several villages, the most important of which are Middleboro',-junetion with Cape Cod Railroad,-West Bridgewater,-junction with Plymouth Railroad,-Braintree, Quiney,
and Dorchester. The cars arrive at Boston between 5 and 6
o'clock, A. M., in season to obtain breakfast and go North
at 7:30, from the different depots.
III. NEW YORK TO BOSTON, via New London and Norwich;
on Long Island Sound to Allyn's Point; thence by rail through
Worcester, arriving at Boston about 5-, A. Mb
The commodious Steamers (COMMONWEALTIT and CONNECTICUT
leave their pier in New York at 5, P. M. These boats have
few equals for elegance or comfort.
Starting from New York late in the afternoon, they make
the passage through the East River into Long Island Sound
before sunset.  The other boats for Boston  also start about the
same time and pass over the same scenes. As they pass on
the one side, the quiet suburbs of Brooklyn, Williamsburg and
Green Point, and on the other the busy piers and streets of
New  York; the green islands,  Blackwell's,  Randall's, and
others, which lie like emeralds upon the soft bosom of the river;
the changing scenery, from urban bustle and activity, to rural
stillness and solitude, the passenger on board will enjoy the
calmness of the hour and the varied pleasure of the panoramic
view. Soon the dangers of Hlurlgate are passed, the sun sinks
below the city, rapidly left behind, and the long reach of the
Sound to the mouth of Thames River is to be sailed over in
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WIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
darkness. Half an hour after midnight, the landing at NEW
LONDON is safely reached. A moment's stop to leave passengers
and the course is continued up the river to ALLYN'S POINT.
New London is a bustling city, engaged to a considerable extent
in the whale fishery. The Arctic ship Resolute, abandoned by
the English in Lancaster Sound, was encountered in Baffin's
Bay by a New London whaler and safely brought into this port.
The Griswold House, formerly a favorite resort for summer
travellers, has just been destroyed by fire. Good accommodations are doubtless to be had. The PEQUOT HIOUSE, a mile
below, is well known. Fort Trumbull, near the Griswold
House, needs nothing but a garrison to make it formidable
to an enemy. At Allyn's Point, about 125 miles from New
York, the passengers leave the steamers and take the cars for
Worcester.
NORWICH is an active place, the seat of considerable trade,
and a pleasant inland city. A number of small villages in
Eastern Connecticut, and of manufacturing towns in Massachusetts, lie along the course of this railroad, being of no particular
interest to the traveller.   At four o'clock,  A. M., the  cars
arrive at WORCEsTEr.   If the tourist designs passing  on to
Concord, N. HI., and thence up to the mountains, he will experience a detention of two hours and a half, which can well be
passed in a comfortable nap, either at the LINCOLN, or the BAY
STATE HOUSE. Both hotels are convenient to the depot, and
unexceptionable, first class houses in every respect.
WORCESTER is the most enterprising city in New England,
second only to Boston. It is well laid out, and its wide streets,
lined with elegant private residences, stores and public buildings, invite the pedestrian to an early stroll. He will notice
Horticultural Hall, Mechanics' Hall, a stately and imposing
building, not surpassed in Massachusetts.   The Female Col.
lege occupies an elevated site in the southern part of the city.
The College of the Holy Cross is still more distant. The Oroad
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Institute, a seminary of the highest order for young ladies, enjoys a deservedly wide reputation. The population of Worces
ter is over 20,000, and is rapidly increasing.
The cars, however, proceed directly on to Boston, arriving
there at about the same time as by the other routes.
IV.   NEW'YoRK TO BOSTON, by railroad, via New Haven,
Hartford, Springfield and Worcester.
The New  York and Boston Express line-land route-is
formed by the New York & New Haven, New Haven, Hartford
& Springfield, Western and Boston & Worcester Railroads.
The cars leave New York at 27th and 32nd streets at 8, A. M.,
and 3, P. M. The time to Boston is nine hours, and the fare
$5.00. The cars proceed directly to WORCESTER JUNCTION
without change or detention.  From Springfield to WORCESTER
JUNCTION, the Western Railroad passes through the thrifty,
manufacturing and agricultural towns of central Massachusetts.
Of these the principal are PALMER, WARREN, WEST BROOKFIELD, BROOKFIELD and SPENCER. The railroad stations on this
road are the -best in New England. To this remark, that at
Worcester Junction is most decidedly an exception. The one
storied, inconvenient, incommodious building at that point is a
disgrace to the wealthy corporations, which, with unusual parsimony, have furnished this miserable shelter for the multitudes
of passengers who are daily obliged to make it their temporary
stopping place. The large travelling public demand better and
worthier accommodations.
With slight detention, however, the cars proceed from Worcester, directly to Boston, where they arrive about 5 and 12
o'clock, P. M.
From Boston to the mountains there are, as before indicated,
three distinct routes.
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I. BOSTON TO GORHAM, N. IH., vIA PORTLAND.
It is only a few years that the valleys of the Eastern and
Northern slopes of the Mountains have been open to travellers.
Until the Atlantic &  St. Lawrence Railroad, which connects
Portland and Montreal, was completed through Northern NewHampshire, some seven years ago, they were inaccessible to the
tourists for pleasure, and their charms were unsuspected.
The forms of the mountains are bolder, and the slopes more
abrupt, on tche Eastern and Northern sides. There is more
beauty around North Conway and in the Pemigewasset valley;
but the most satisfactory impressions of mountain ruggedness,
strength, and sublimity are gained from the views that surround
GORHAM, N. IH., and "The GLEN."
One can reach the great White Mountain range from Boston
more speedily and with more ease by the Portland route than
by any other. The traveller leaves Boston for Portland in the
morning, by either the Eastern Railroad, or the Boston &
Maine. ile reaches Portland at noon, and has half an hour
for dinner in the ample and commodious Station Hlouse of the
Atlantic & St. Lawrence, or "Grand Trunk," Railway. At 1
o'clock he takes the cars on this road, and at 5, P. M., is landed in front of the ALPINE HOUSE, in Gorham,  N. HI.  This
IHotel is one of the largest and best in the whole mountain region, and has been fot some years under the charge of Mr. JOHN
]R. I-IITcrcoci,.  There is ample time in the long summer days
for a stroll or a ride, from this Hotel after supper, along the
banks of the noble Androscoggin river and in full view of the
highest summits of the White Hills and the great Mount Moriah range. Or if the traveller's time is very limited, he can
take a stage from the door of the ALPINE HocusE, on the arrival
of the cars at five o'clock, and in two hours can reach the
"GLEN HousE," eight miles distant,-a spacious, excellent
and well known Hotel at the base of Mount Washington, under
the charge of Mr. J. M. THOMPSON.
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Thus, by this Portland route, one can reach Gorham and its
charming scenery in ten hours from Boston, with time for dinner
and rest; or can arrive at the very base of Mount Washington in twelve hours. The cars of the Grand Trunk Railway
from Portland to the Mountains are of the most commodious
'ind. The road is the wide, or five feet and a half gauge. It
is very rarely that the trains fail to keep time like a chronometer; and the conductors are celebrated for their gentlemanly
readiness to impart full information to passengers concerning
the mountain routes and scenery.
There is, also, communication by steamboat between Boston
and Portland. Leaving Boston about seven in the evening,
Portland is reached at five in the morning. Then by the first
train on the Grand Trunk Railway, the traveller arrives at
Gorham at 11, A. M., and at the Glen HIouse, if he desires,
by stage in season for dinner. The fare from Boston to Gorham
by a through ticket on the cars is $4; by steamboat and cars,
$3.00.  The distance from Boston to Portland by the shorter
of the two railroad routes is 106 miles; from Portland to Gor
ham, N.H., 91 miles.
On the route from Portland to Gorham, there is nothing
especially attractive in the scenery,-nothing that promises or
hints the grandeur in reserve, until the train reaches
BRYANT'S POND. This lake in miniature,:the source of the
Little Androscoggin river, charmingly set among hills several
hundred feet in height, is twenty-nine miles from Gorham.
The pond and the track of the railroad lie about seven hundred
feet above the sea level.
The next point of interest is BETIIEL, the chief town of Oxford County, Maine, and probablyethe loveliest village of that
State. It is twenty-one miles from Gorham. Travellers are as
yet but little acquainted with its attractions. Bethel is, in
truth, the North Conway of the Eastern side of the Hills. If
the terminus of the Railroad were here, or if passengers were
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WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
compelled to leave the cars at this point, and take stages to
Gorham and the Glen, Bethel would be a dangerous rival to
North Conway, and the ride from Bethel to Mount Washington
would be pronounced superior, on some accounts, in charm to the
famous ride from Conway through Bartlett to the Notch.
The meadows of Bethel are very lovely; and on a clear
afternoon, when the golden light falls aslant upon the fresh
grass, throwing out long shadows from the trees, and the eye follows northward the narrowing line of hills along the course of the
Androscoggin, and catches the sharp edges of the great White
Mountain range sweeping across and closing up the vista, it is
difficult to conceive where an artist can find a more tempting
picture in New-England. There are several hills, too, in and
near the village, easily accessible, around which the most fascinating panoramas of forests, hills, rivers, lakes, meadows, and
mountain majesty are displayed. Bethel will, we predict, at
some time not very far distant, be sought as a boarding-place
during the summer by those who love charming scenery with
more quiet than the prominent White Mountain routes and
hotels afford.
There is a comfortable hotel in Bethel, kept by Mr. CIIANDLER. Travellers can procure teams from him to visit places of
interest in the neighborhood, There is a delightful drive of
twelve miles to the grand water-sculpture of the Albany Basins.
Eighteen miles in the opposite direction one finds the Rumford
Falls. The road to these Falls is excellent, the scenery on the
way very lovely, and the Falls themselves are hardly inferior to
any in New-England. The full tide of the Androscoggin
makes a descent here of one hundred and sixty feet, in three
pitches, and within the space of a quarter of a mile. There
is a fine excursion also from Bethel to the Speckled Mountain
Notch, or Bear River Notch, as it is sometimes called.  The
farther end of this Notch is about eighteen miles from Bethel.
The road for twelve miles-part of the way up the valley of
.....'
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the Bear River-is excellent, and very good accommodation is
found there at the "POPLAR TAVERN."
The "Screw-Auger Fall," at Fanning's Mills, and the ride
up through the jaws of the Notch will well repay the time which
the journey requires. Starting early in the morning from Bethel, the excursion and return can easily be made in a day. Or
it will be practicable to push through from the Bear River
Notch to Umbagog Lake in another day, and thence to D)ixville
Notch, of which we shall speak bye and bye. The trout fishing
ion this route is probably unsurpassed in New England.
From Bethel to the Station in Gorham, the seenery through
which the cars pass is very fascinating. Three villages, charmingly located to increase the beauty of the landscape, lie in full
view from the train,-West Bethel, Gilead, and Shelburne.
About a mile from the Station in Gilead, the boundary line of
Maine is passed, and the traveller is among the New Hampshire
hills.  Especially fortunate are those who  see this scenery for
the first time in the rich light of a clear summer afternoon.
The sight of the brilliant meadows spotted with elms; of the
graceful-curves of the Androscoggin, studded with islands; of
the brawny hills that guard it, among which the train flies along
a twisted track; and, now and then, of the long, firmly cut lines
of the White Mountain ridge shooting across the north, until in
Shelburne, Madison, and the peak of Jefferson, and the bulk
of Washington spring out for a few minutes in full view, almost
banishes the fatigue of a h]lot day's ride, and prepares the visitor
for the pleasures in store after his arrival in Gorham, at the
Alpine House.
The route through the mountain region from this point is
described on the 5th and following pages.
But we must here speak of two excursions to other points of
interest connected directly with the White Mountains on their
eastern side. The first is to
LANCASTER, N. H.
This is the shire town of C'os County, and is set amid some
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of the noblest and loveliest scenery of New England. The
whole range of the White Mountains, the great Franconia hills,
and many of the Green Mountains are in full view from some
of its streets. Then, too, the Connecticut meadows are among
the finest here which the river can boast in its whole extent.
The drives in the neighborhood, on either side the Connecticut,
are unsurpassed, probably, in New England; for the roads are
excellent, and the views are very various. And a spacious
Hiotel has just been completed there, which will afford attractive
accommodation to travellers. There are few points among, or
near, the mountains, where so much quiet pleasure could be experienced in a visit of a few weeks, as in Lancaster.
There is a stage from Gorham to Lancaster, passing through
the grand scenery of Jefferson. The distance is 24 miles.
One can also take the train in the forenoon, or afternoon, from
Gorham, reach Northumberland in an hour, take a stage
thence to Lancaster, some ten miles distant.
We must also call attention to the scenery of the
DIXVILLE NOTCII.
The Dixville hills lie in the extreme northern portion of New
Hampshire, some sixty miles beyond the Washington range.
It is very seldom that a tourist strays so far from the regular
routes; but the geologists have long been acquainted with the
interesting scenery of the region, and have called attention to
it in reports of their surveys. Dr. Jackson, in his great work
on the Geology of New Hampshire, speaks of the Dixville
Notch as more Alpine in its character than any other pass of
our New England mountains, and predicts that its grandeur
will yet make it a place of large resort.
Since the completion of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad, it has become easily accessible and should be more widely
known. One can leave Boston at 7 o'clock in the morning,
and sleep the same night within 10 miles of it, reaching it
early in the forenoon of the second day.   Or travellers can
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take the cars at 11 from the Alpine House in Gorham, and in
an hour and a half be landed at North Stratford, which lies on
the Connecticut River, thirty-six miles from Gorham. The
Railroad ride is very pleasant. The track lies along the narrow
and winding valley of the Androscoggin, hemmed in by grand
and gloomy hills, until it bends toward the more cheerful Conneeticut. Then it winds up around the base of the singular,
bleached, twin cones, called the Stratford Peaks.
At North Stratford a wagon stage is in readiness, on the
arrival of the noon and evening trains, to convey passengers to
Colebrook. If there is no stage, an extra wagon can easily be
hired. The ride to Colebrook up the Connecticut, is really
charming. Frequently a view of a broad intervale, with the
glittering river sweeping through it in a lordly curve, will make
a man regret that the slow pace of the horses could not be retarded, in order that he might more leisurely feast his eyes.
Colebrook is quite a flourishing village on the New Hampshire side of the river, and lying in the eastern shadow of a
massive and majestic mountain which the inhabitants call
Monadnoc. This hill lies just beyond the river in Vermont,
and is really quite imposing by its bulk and glorious verdure.
It must spring more than two thousand feet from the stream at
its base. One arrives in Colebrook usually about four in the
afternoon. Dixville Notch is only ten miles distant. But
there is no public house near it, and it is best to pass the night
at the inn kept, we believe, by Mr. Cummings in Colebrook,
and called the Monadnoc House, If a person before going
there will look at the situation of the village on the map, and
observe that it is within almost a stone's throw of Canada, he
will doubtless be most pleasantly disappointed with the substan tial accommodations furnished by the brisk and obliging land lord.  One had better leave the hotel about seven the next
morning for the Notch and give the whole day to the excursion.
The road is very good, but rises steadily the whole distance; so
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that the ten miles demands three hours' riding. Travellers will
be much struck with the general excellence of the land along
the way. It is the best farming region of the Granite State;
and the fields are so free from stones, that it is really impossible
to have stone walls for boundaries. The last two miles of the
ride wind through the grandest forest one will find in his mountain travels. Every variety of tree is represented along the
way, and generally of much larger growths than are met before.
A person will begin to doubt whether there is any mountain
magnificence near, so closely is the road shut in by the forest.
Suddenly the heavy walls of the Dixville range begin to show
themselves ahead. And while one is admiring their dark and
grave sides of shadowed foliage, wondering where the pass he
is in search of can open, a turn of the road to the right brings
the wagon in front of the bare and savage jaws of the Notch, at
its western entrance.
The first view of it is very impressive. It opens like a Titanic gateway to some region of vast and mysterious desolation.
The pass is much narrower than either of the more famed ones
in the White Mountains, and through its whole extent of a mile
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and a quarter, has more the character of a Notch. One can not but feel that the mountain was rent apart by some volcanic
convulsion, and the two sides left to tell the story by their correspondence and the naked dreariness of the pillars of rotting
rock that face each other. There is little more than room for a
road at the bottom; and the walls slope away from it so sharply
that considerable outlay is required from the State, every year,
to clear it of the stones and earth which the frosts and rain roll
into it every winter and spring.
No description can impart an adequate conception of the
mournful grandeur of the decaying cliffs of mica slate which
overhang the way. They shoot up in most singular and fantastic shapes, and vary in height from four hundred to eight
hundred feet. A few centuries ago, the pass must have been
very wild, but the pinnacles of rock which give the scenery such
an Alpine character, are rapidly crumbling away. Some have
decayed to half their original height. And the side walls of
the Notch are strewn with debris which the ice and storms have
pried and gnawed from the decrepit cliffs. The whole aspect
is one of-ruin and wreck. The creative forces seem to have retreated from the spot, and abandoned it to the sport of the
destructive elements.   One  might entertain the thought  that
some awful crime had been committed there, for which the
region was blasted by a lasting curse. The only life in the
Notch belongs to the raspberry vines. It seems to be the paradise of this delicious fruit.
One should climb the highest pinnacle which juts out from
the southerly wall of the pass, and stands about eight hundred
feet above the road.  It is no easy task to keep the footing in
the steep ascent over the loose and treacherous ruins of slate
that strew the way. Hands and feet are necessary. We once
knew a company of gentlemen who would have been discouraged
once or twice, were it not that the lady of the party proved so
sure footed and steady a climber, and laughed at difficulties
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
She belongs to Boston and is a model traveller. It will be
found, however, that the view from the summit repays the toil
of the scramble. It is no small trial for weak nerves to walk
out upon the side of the Notch upon this cliff, not more than six
feet wide and eight hundred feet sheer down. No part of the
ride up Mount Washington makes the head swim so giddily.
From it one can easily see into Maine, Vermont, and Canada.
Only a few miles east, lies Lake Umbagog, where the moose
congregate in the evening to stand up to their neck in water
and "fight flies," as the guides express it.  About ten miles
north is Lake Connecticut, a beautiful sheet of water, mother
of the noble river which is the pride of New England. One
might spend a few days very profitably in exploring the novelties of the districts that lie around the Notch.
After about an hour's stay upon the pinnacle, one should
descend and ride through the pass to a flume just beyond its
eastern gateway. A more interesting ride can hardly be found
in the whole White Moutain region.  The Notch is crescent in
its shape, which adds to the effect of height, by concealing the
whole extent- at a single glance. Everywhere, as you ride
through, are these sad and sullen cliffs, the monuments of a
majesty fast passing away.
How charming, then, the surprise, in passing through the
Notch eastward, to ride out from its spiky teeth of slate into a
most lovely plain, called "The Clear Stream Meadows," embosomed in mountains luxuriantly wooded to the crown. It is
something like descending from the desolation of the Alps into
the foliage and beauty of Italy. There is but one house near.
But the graves of the earliest settler and his wife are there,
fenced off rudely, and overgrown with the tall weeds which
nature wears for them.  How many of the great and wealthy
of our land will find such a cemetery? A mountain range for a
monument; a luxuriant valley for a grave; such silence to
sleep in as no Mount Auburn can assure, and their story told
to visitants from far off portions of the land!
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Returning through the whole length of the Notch, Colebrook
is reached again by supper-time. The next morning, one can
take the stage-wagon to North Stratford, and thence reach
Gorham by cars early in the forenoon. Thus the whole journey from the Alpine House, or Glen House, to Dixville Notch,
and back again, can be made in two days; and nearly the
whole of one day will be passed in the Notch. It is also one
of the cheapest excursions which the mountain region affords.
WILLOUGHBY LAIKr,,
should also be mentioned. This is a small sheet of water, six
miles in length, and from one to two in width, charmingly set
between steep granite mountains in the Northern part of Ver.
mont. There is a fine hotel on the border of the lake kept by
ALONZO BEMIS.  Passengers can leave Gorham about noon by
cars, stop at the ISLAND POND HOUSE for dinner and take the
stage thence for Willoughby Lake, which will be reached by
tea time.  A few days can be most delightfully passed there.
More will be said of this lake in another connection.
ISLAND POND is the "half-way" station between Portland
and Montreal.  It is a charming spot.  The pond is directly in
front of the Station House.  In high water, the Clyde, the regular outlet, pours its water into Memphremagog, and thence into
the St. Lawrence, while an outlet at the other end leads into
the Connecticut and thence into Long Island Sound. To trace
up the Clyde by a canoe would make a pleasant excursion.
Mr. WIIITEOUSE, the accommodating landlord of the hotel,
will furnish all the necessary accommodations. The fishing all
around is excellent.
PORTLAND, ME., TO CONWAY, N. HI.
Distance to Conway, 58 miles. Fare, $2.50. The route to
Conway, via Portland and Gorham, Me., was very attractive
and much patronized before the Atlantic & St. Lawrentce Railroad was opened to Gorham, N.H. Since then the steamboat
which runs over Sebago Lake has been withdrawn for want of
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WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
patronage and the route has fallen into comparative disuse.
Persons, however, wishing to spend time upon the journey will
find this a very pleasant ride.
The tourist leaves Portland by the cars of the Portland &
Kennebeck Railroad at 7:15, A. M. A ride of half an hour
brings you to Gorham, Me., ten miles distant, where you take
the coach for Conway. At Livingston (seventeen miles from
Gorham,) you  cross the Saco, and  thence winding along its
banks for eleven miles the
GREAT FALLS are reached. These constitute one of the great
attractions of the route and are said to be "unsurpassed in
grandeur and sublimity."  Twelve  miles farther on we reach
FRYERBURG, the seat of a flourishing Academy. I-IHere are
situated "LOVELxL'S  POND,"  famed for an Indian battle, and
Jockey Cap, Stark's, and Pine Hills. A ride of eight miles
farther brings us to Conway about 7 o'clock, P. M. The stage
leaves Conway for Portland, daily, early in the morning.
Fine distant views of the mountains are gained all along the
route. Conway and the route thence to the Notch will be
spoken of hereafter.
II. BOSTON TO V7HIT-E MOUNTAIN NOTCH, vIxA DOVER,
ALTON BAY, CENTRE HARBOR AND CONIVAY.
Distance from Boston to Alton Bay, 96 miles.
The cars leave the station house of the Boston & Maine
Railroad every morning at 7:30.  At Dover, connection is made
with the Cochecho Railroad for Alton Bay. This was originally
christened "Merrymeeting Bay."   The hotel, depot, and steamboat wharf constitute almost the only buildings at this place.
Various Indian relics have been found near here, and are in
the possession of Capt. SANBORN. Mr. CorrFFIN, the landlord of
the Hotel, has at all times every convenience for riding and
fishing.
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WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
The Steamer DovER, a new and elegant Lake steamer, has
been enlarged during the past winter, and is now 132 feet in
length, and moves with great rapidity and steadiness. From
Alton Bay the steamer will convey you to Wolfborough, ten
miles, and thence to Centre Harbor, twenty miles farther. A
good dinner may be obtained on board the boat, or at the Sen.
ter House.  The Boat reaches Centre Harbor about 1, P. M.
From Centre Harbor you can proceed directly to Conway, as
will be described hereafter. The advantage of this route is the
additional distance passed on Lake Winnipisaukee.
The Lake and the route from Centre Harbor will be spoken
of hereafter.
III. BOSTON TO WHITE MOUNTAINS VIA CONCORD, N. H.
The traveller leaves Boston for Concord, either by the cars of
the Boston & Maine Railroad, from Haymarket Square, or of
the Lowell Railroad, from Causeway street. Should he take
the former route, he will pass through Somerville, Malden, and
Melrose, all pretty villages in the suburbs of Boston; South
Reading, where connections may be made with Salem and Newburyport; Reading and Wilmington, of no particular note;
Wilmington Junction, where the track crosses the Salem and
Lowell Railroad; Andover, the seat of Phillips' Academy, and
the celebrated Theological Seminary, of the Trinitarian Congregationalists.
LAWRENcE.   This is a manufacturing city, recently built on
the Merrimack river, ten miles below Lowell, and similar in
character to that place. It contains manufactories of cotton
and woolen goods, shawls, duck, iron, &c. It is a promising
place. Here the Manchester & Lawrence Railroad diverges
from the Boston & Maine, and passes on through Methuen,
Salem, N. H., Windham, Derry, and Londonderry, to Manchester, where a union is effected with the train on the Concord
Railroad from below.
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
On leaving Boston by the Boston & Lowell Railroad, the
traveller will pass through SOMERVILLE, WEST MEDFORD, WINCHESTER, WOBURN-suburban villages, much sought for by business men  for a  quiet, rural residence - WILMINGTON,  and
BILLERICA to
LOWELL. This is a place famous through the whole country
for its extensive manufactures. It is built near Pawtucket Falls,
upon the Merrimack. A wide canal, whose massive masonry is
a remarkable instance of the power of persevering industry,
conveys the necessary water to the wheels, that carry the machinery of the mills. Carpets, cotton and woolen goods, prints,
and other similar articles are manufactured, employing a capital
of $11,000,000 in public corporations, and 13,000 laborers,
besides the large number engaged in private enterprise. Lowell
is a brisk city, and has enjoyed a great degree of prosperity.
NAsHUA is a thriving, bustling manufacturing town at the
confluence of the Nashua and Merrimack rivers.  It presents
no objects of particular interest. The Pearl Street, Central,
and Indian Head Houses are old hotels of established character.
REED's FER,RY, or MERRIMACK, is the site of a fine academy,
which stands near the railroad track, on a high bluff overlooking
a wide expanse of country. GorF's FALLS are in the town of
Bedford, and are to be seen from the car window. Here the
road crosses the Merrimack, and the train soon arrives at
MANCIIESTER, a very enterprising city, almost wholly devoted
to manufacturing. Hlere the Manchester & Lawrence Railroad
intersects. Both corporations, now united under one management,  are profitably and energetically conducted  by J.  A.
GILMORE, who, in all matters of business, is a host in himself.
Opposite Manchester may be noticed Point Raymond, and the
Unconoonucs, two round hills in the interior. Manchester is
well planned, and is evidently determined to distance all competitors in the State, in enterprise and vigorous growth.   The
AmOSKIEAG FALLS are a mile above the city, and furnish a fine
10
109 
WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
water privilege.  A short distance farther, on the right, may be
seen the new Reform School, quite an imposing edifice of brick.
MARTIN's FtERRY is a station to accommodate some village not
visible from the cars.  At  HOOKSETT, the cars again cross the
river. On the left may be observed a high, conical hill, called
the Pinnacle, rising abruptly from the plain. From its summit
may be seen an extensive and charming prospect. On the right
are the Hooksett Falls, a pleasant object, as the white foam
appears amid the rapidly descending  waters.   Eight miles
farther is
CONCORID,
the capital of New Hampshire.   This may afford interest sufficient to detain the traveller for a shiort time, while he examines
the large and well conducted Prison of solid granite; or the
State House of similar material, chaste in its design and perfect
in its finish; or the Asylum for the Insane, with beautiful
grounds and a commanding site. A fine view of the city may
be obtained from the cupola of the State House.  Around the
town are pleasant drives skirting the shores of Pennacook Lake
or Long Pond, Turkey Pond and the river.  A beautiful prospect may be obtained near sunset from Point Pleasant on the
high bluffs of the Merrimack.   Not far from the village on the
road to St. Paul's School, is erected a monument to the memory
of some of the early martyrs to the "bloudy salvages " who
infested the region. Elsewhere is pointed out the location of an
old fort; and buildings, still tenanted, bear the marks of both
ball and bullet. The Methodist Biblical Institute is in the
building known as the Old North Church, for a long time the
only church in the town. A visit to the numerous cotton factories, as well as to the large flouring mill recently erected at
Fisherville, may serve as an agreeable terminus to an hour's ride.
There are three fine and commodious Hotels in Concord:The Phenix, by CoRNING  &  CLARK, the Eagle by DUMAS  &
NORTON, and the American by JoiiN GAss.  These are not any
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WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
where excelled for the accommodations they afford the traveller
or the conveniences they place around him.
The amount of railroad building, work, furniture, etc., here
visible, is probably superior to any in places of even twice its
size, throughout the country. It is the Dep6t of five distinct
railways, and, at the hours of half-past ten and three, when the
great trains, northward and southward, are made up, a scene of
apparently irremedible confusion is presented to the spectator,
not unfrequently adorned with quite novel and amusing incidents. The Coach Manufactories of the Messrs. Abbots' and
the Messrs. Downings' are not far from the Depot, and are
worthy of visit. The last train from Boston remains here over
night, and thus is afforded the tourist his last opportunity for
obtaining any articles he may be in need of during his journey.
From Concord, four distinct routes to the mountain region,
present themselves to the traveller. One is over the Northern,
and the other three over the Montreal Railroad.
1.  CONcORD To FRANCONIA, via Northern, Connecticut &
Passumpsic,-and White Mountains Railroad. Distance 140
miles; from Boston, 212.  Fare from Boston  to Franeonia,
$8.00.  From Concord, $5.50.  Time from Boston, 12 hours.
The Northern Railroad extends from Concord to White River
Junction, following the course of the Merrimack as far as
Franklin, when it crosses to the Connecticut over the high lands
of central New Hampshire. The road is admirably conducted,
and furnishes a favorite route. At Fisherville, the road crosses the
Contoocook River, and Dustin's Island,'so named from its being
the camping ground of a party of Indians, from whom a captive
woman, Mrs. Dustin, made her escape in colonial times. Just
before reaching Franklin, the traveller will notice upon the right
of the track, the former residence of the late Hon. Daniel
Webster.  It is a comfortable, old fashioned house, among the
trees, and just the place to furnish repose to the statesman,
jaded in the conflicts of party and of the forum.  Franklin is a
1 =.= 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
busy village. At Potter Place, may be seen on the left of the
track, Mt. Kearsarge, in Salisbury and Wilmot, two thousand
four hundred and sixty-one feet high; on the right, the Ragged
Mountains, rough and unshapely. Danbury will furnish a capital dinner to those accustomed to masticate rapidly. Cardigan
mountain may be seen from Grafton. At Enfield is a beautiful
pond, on whose shores a community of Shakers have a neat
settlement. Through Lebanon and East Lebanon, the train
passes to
WHIIITE RIVER JUNCTION, where the road crosses the Connecticut, and a union is effected with the trains from the valley
of the Connecticut. This place is important only from the fact,
that it is the convergent and divergent point of the eight railroad trains, which here meet and separate over the Passumpsic,
Northern, and Vermont  Central Railroads.  It is distant from
New York, 265 miles; from Boston 152 via Fitchburg, 142
via Lowell; from Wells River 40; from Willoughby Lake 80;
and from Franconia Notch 60 miles. Considerable self-possession and self-control are requisite at this point, on the part of
the traveller, lest he lose his baggage, his seat, his temper, and,
most of all, his way.  If he becomes flurried, he is in great
danger of taking the "back track" for Concord, or of going
against his will to Burlington, Vt., or of flying wildly to Bellows Falls, Vt.  In the calmest state of mind, let him-after
refreshment, for which there is ample time,-step into the cars
of the Passumpsic Railroad, sure that he is right, and he will
soon go ahead through, perhaps, the most delightful region of
country, which he has yet seen.
The Connecticut &  Passumpsic Rivers Railroad at present
connects White River and Barton. It is designed to extend it
to Canada. The road is in the valley of the Connecticut until
it reaches Bernet; from thence it is over and along the Passumpsic.
The extent and variety of the scenery on this portion of the
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
route is greater than is ever imagined by those who have never
visited it. Thile great diversity and contrast of the views are
alone sufficient to astonish and delight.  Hill and valley, precipice and plain-sharp angular declivities, without a vestige of
verdure, and smooth smiling meadow lands covered with the
greenest sward and the heaviest crops,-a great surface of river
on the one hand, unruffled and seemingly motionless, a little
mountain stream on the other, dashed into foam by the speed of
its descent-all these totally different and dissimilar prospects
are so intermingled with one another, as to be a constant source
of surprise and satisfaction.
But divested of these more distant views there is still something startling in the sudden changes presented to the eye over
the very track itself; at one instant the cars are sweeping
smoothly along the most beautiful of meadows-the next they
are, apparently, penned within the solid rock, that rises fifty
feet upon either hand; they dash out upon a great embankment,
that is invisible, and seemingly fly across the chasm which is
beneath-they tremble along the lofty grade which falls precipitously into the darkness and resonance of a bridge-emerge
to sunlight by the side of some beautiful pond, and slowly draw
to a halt in a quiet New England village.
NORwIcH and HANOVER, 4 miles on, are out of sight.  Norwich is the seat of a military University.  Hanover, on the New
Hampshire side, is the location of Dartmouth College.
OMPOrIPANOOSUc is 9 miles farther on.  It receives its name
from an Indian stream near by which signifies, "The  very
clear rocky river of the hills." A copperas mine is near by.
NORTH THETFORD is 71 miles distant.  Between this station
and the next there is a very good view of several mountains
on the New Hampshire side. Mt. Cuba is the highest of these
peaks, and is said to contain a scanty population of bearswhich from its barren appearance may well be credited.
A conical peak, to the right of Mt. Cuba is termed Sunday
10o
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WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Mountain. It looms up blue and melancholy in the distance,
its summit destitute of vegetation and its sides scarred by
avalanches.  Black Mountain and Mt. Sago are beyond.
On leaving FAIRLEE, the Moosehillock Mountain, four thousand eight hundred and seven feet high,
"Upheaves its huge bare back emergent,"
and for nearly twenty miles remains in sight.
NEWBURY, 35 miles from White River, is chiefly noted for its
SULPHUR SPRINGS, as infallible a specific as Patent Medicine
for many diseases.  Passing through a tremendous cut in the
solid rock, we reach
WELLS RIVER, the junction of the Montreal, the Passumpsic,
and the White Mountains Railroads. The latter is the road
necessary for reaching Franconia. There is no detention, and
the cars are soon making their way up the Ammonoosuc River.
The opening of this road, while it has accommodated the host
of travellers in this direction, has materially diminished the
patronage of two excellent hotels, the Wells River House, and
the Coosack House, where, if desired, a comfortable home may
be found for any one wishing for a quiet summer retreat. At
the former house, was to be seen a year or two since, a stable
of the finest Morgan horses in the  country-young,  sound,
unblemished, fast, and beautifully symmetrical.
BATH is distant five miles from Wells River, and is a very
neat and prosperous place.  A good hotel-the BATH-may be
found here, and there is fine fishing, as well as fine scenery in
the neighborhood.
LISBON in a quiet village, in no way remarkable except for
the indications which are here clearly given of an approach to
the highlands. The mountains are seen in the distance, and, on
a fine summer afternoon, the effect of the landscape is very
exhilarating.
LITTLETON is the terminus of railroad travel in this direction,
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and is reached about 5 o'clock, P. M. Stages are in readiness
to start immediately for the Franconia Notch and the White
Mountain Notch, the former distant twelve, the latter eighteen
miles, with fares at one and two dollars respectively.
Having taken on board the evening mail for the denizens of
the mountain region, and waited long enough for the passengers to snatch a hasty meal at the UNION, or the WHITE MOUNTAIN HOUSE, the stage coaches are off upon their course for the
long desired goal. For twelve miles, the road winds along in
the valleys and ascends the hills, through the little villages of
Bethlehem and Franconia. The land rises on either side, its
highest elevations softly burnished by the setting sun. The
mountains in the distance glow with a more radiant light.
Gradually, the shadows steal up their sides, as the sun goes
down. Darkness settles in the valley. The passengers beguile
the way with "Stage Coach Stories," or gaze in an admiring
silence on the varied landscape, as the "last rays of departing
day linger and play upon the summits" of the neighboring hills.
An occasional cabin is now only to be seen along the road-side.
Soon, even this slight symptom of human life disappears. In
the deepening shades of evening, the coach rattles, for two or
three miles, through a gloomy piece of dark forest, and by nine
o'clock, the careful driver has brought his precious freight safely
to the door of the hotel. The bright lights, the cosy fire in
the open chimney, the sounds of merry voices, and the cordial
greetings of friends, welcome the arriving party to the abundant
cheer, and the generous hospitality of the PROFILE HOUSE.
2.  CONCORD TO WHITE MOUNTAINS, via Montreal Railroad.
Three different routes are presented to the tourist over this
road. (1.) He may go to Wells River, thence over the White
Mountains Railroad to Littleton and down to Franconia by
stage as by the Northern Railroad just described. (2) He
may leave the cars at Plymouth and proceed directly to the
FLUrME HOUSE by stage.  (3) The cars may  be left at the
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WIIITE MIOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Weirs, and the traveller may pursue his journey to the White
Mountain Notch, via Centre Harbor and Conway.
1. CARS TO LITTLETON. This route is shorter than by the
Northern Railroad, though passengers arrive at the Profile, or
White Mountain House at the same time as by the other route.
It has the advantage of skirting along the shores of Lake Winnipisaukee. The change of cars and confusion of White River
Junction is also avoided. The distance is 124 miles; from
Boston, 198. Fare from Boston to Franconia, $7.50. Time
from Boston, twelve hours.
Should the preference be given for the route over the Montreal Railroad, the tourist will find the cars of the road ready
to start upon the arrival of the train from Boston. The road
crosses the Merrimack River, soon after leaving the Concord
station, and continues up that river upon its eastern bank,
through the villages of Canterbury, Northfield, Sanbornton
Bridge,-where the road crosses a portion of Lake  Winnipisaukee, called the Great Bay-Laconia, and Lake Village to
"Weirs."   Here the Steamer LADY OF THE LAKE, Capt. Wmr.
WALKER, JR., is ready to start for Centre Harbor. As a
description of this Lake will be given hereafter, we will not
detain the reader at this point.
LACONIA is the stopping place for Gilford, where the traveller
will find a good hotel kept by A. L. MORRISON. Mt. Belknap,
four and a half miles distant is much visited. The Canterbury
Shakers are only twelve miles distant - a pleasant ride. The
citizens are very hospitable. The Lake, also, may be visited
from this place.
We pass rapidly through Meredith Village and Holderness,
and arrive at Plymouth soon after noon. Having fortified the
inner man with the good cheer of our jolly host, BURNIIAM, we
return to the cars, and proceeding through Quincy, Rumney,
Wentworth, Warren and Haverhill, with Carr's mountain,
Mloosehillock, and the spurs of the Franconia range in bight,
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE,
reach Wells River. Here a junction is made with the cars
from below on the Passumpsic route, and the White Mountains
Road, and the train after a short detention goes on to Littleton.
(See page 114.)
MOOSEHILLOCK MOUNTAIN, as has just been said, is in sight
from the road between Plymouth and Wells River. As this
mountain is one of the highest in the vicinity, some tourists may
desire to visit it. To do this, they should leave the cars at
Warren, twenty miles from Plymouth. Two small hotels, the
UNION and the GRAFTON HOUSE,, here provide for the accommodation of guests. Three or four miles from the village is a
lead mine. The company commenced operations only last year.
The five miles to the base of Moosehillock can easily be passed
over in a carriage. A bridle-path was constructed to its summit
during the past season and a large company from Concord, N.
H., made the ascent in September. Prof. A. Guyot, also made
an excursion to this mountain, and, we are permitted to make
the following extract from a letter written by him, descriptive
of the view:
" The panorama which is before your eyes at the summit of
Moosehillock is nearly the most extensive I have found in New
England, not excepting even that from Mts. Washington and
Lafayette, over which it possesses many advantages. This is
due to the insulated position of that mountain outside of the
group of the White Mountains proper, combined with its great
elevation, which surpasses by 1,000 feet to 1,500 feet the surrounding heights, while it is less than 500 below the summit of
Lafayette. The eye thus embraces at a single glance in the
north and northeast all the chains of the White Mountain
group from Lafayette and Mt. Washington to the high peaks of
the central, southern and eastern chains in Sandwich and Conway. Towards the northwest the view extends into Canada;
on the west and southwest the whole State of Vermont with its
long and continuous chain of the Green Mountains; towards the
.117 
WIIITE MIOUNTAIN GUIDE.
south and east the whole State of New  Hamnpshire, with its
innumerable scattered hills and lakes, among which Winnipisaukee is conspicuous, and a part of Maine, complete the grand,
instructive, raised map which is opened before the beholder.
Moosehillock, which is now so accessible by the way of the
Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, and by means of a path,
recently cut through the forest to the summit, deserves to take
a distinguished place among the high summits visited by the
lovers of mountain scenery."
It is in contemplation to construct a road from Warren to
Franconia.   If this is done, it will be the shortest route to
Franconia, the distance being only fourteen miles. From the
summit of Moosehillock to Franconia the distance is only eight
miles.
Those who desire to visit Lakes Willoughby and Memphremagog will continue their journey from Wells River over the
Connecticut and Passumpsic Railroad to St. Johnsbury, Barton, and Derby. At Barton stages leave for Lake Willoughby
upon the arrival of the cars from below. The distance is but
seven miles over a good road.
DERBY is on the south-eastern shore of Lake Memphremagog,
and is a pleasant town on the verge of the State of Vermont.
These two places must not be omitted from the programme of
pleasure travel. They abound in the finest scenery of all this
region, and can be reached with comparative ease and at a
moderate expense. A number of small streams run into Lake
Memphremagog from the south,.and numerous  ponds,  well
stocked with different varieties of fish, are to be found in all
this section, agreeably diversifying the face of the country.
The hills upon the shores lie pleasantly basking in the sunshine,
and the whole place ever breathes the sweet influence of contentment and peace. Those who know the region, and the
route thither need not be reminded of its quiet and repose,
while those who have yet the pleasure in reserve  need but a
118 
WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
single  suggestion, to  induce  them  to include  a visit to the
locality in the plan of their summer tour.
WILLOUGHIBY  LAKE
is a beautiful sheet of water, between six and seven miles in
length, and varying from half a mile to two miles in width. It
is of a crescent shape, with little inlets and promontories along
its shores. It is within a gap or chasm of the Green Mountain
range, and forms a great reservoir for the brooks in the immediate vicinity. The waters of the Lake discharge, through a
small stream, into the St. Francis and thence into the St. Lawrence. The brooks and rivulets, however, which are crossed a
few rods before reaching the Hotel, flow into the Passumpsie
and down the Connecticut.
The loveliness of the Lake is greatly enhanced by the rough
and precipitous scenery around it. The Lake is all beauty and
repose, while the mountains, that rise abruptly from its shores,
are rough and angular.
At some remote day, the two peaks, that now tower on either
side of the Lake, undoubtedly formed a single summit, and
were separated by some of the volcanic throes whose traces are
so visible throughout this region. Mt. Ananance, the peak
upon the eastern shore, is one thousand nine hundred and fifty
feet high. It receives its name from a chief of the St. Francis
tribe which once lived here. A modern attempt to christen it
"Pisgah " has fortunately been unsuccessful.   The unnamed
summit confronting Mt. Ananance, on the opposite side of the
Lake, is fifteen hundred feet high. Here, a short distance
from the water, there is a sparse growth of pine, fir, spruce,
cedar and hemlock, rapidly dwindling into dwarf birch and
shrubs. The soil they cover is thin and rocky, evidently a
detfritus from the mountains.  This vegetation is on an angle,
from the side of the mountain, of at least forty-five degrees,
and extends up about six hundred feet.  It is terminated by
the solid rock which rises, from above the tree tops, a thousand
119 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
feet perpendicularly. A forest of stunted pine and hemlock
bristles around the summit, cleared away, however, for a little
space on the highest elevation, so as to afford a view of the
surrounding country.
From this observatory, easily attained on horseback and
nearly reached with a carriage, there is a most beautiful landscape visible. Lake Memphremagog and Owl's Head Mountain are twenty miles to the north; Lake Champlain and its
shipping fifty miles to the westward; every prominent part of
the White Mountains, the entire range of the Green Mountains,
Massaweepee Lake,- the beautiful pond in Westmoreland,
Burke and Newark - are all fairly visible from the summit of
Mt. Ananance.
Near the "Devil's Den,"- a doubtful looking hole in the
rock, about midway down the Lake shore, - it is said no soundings can be obtained, although fabulous quantities of line have
been expended in the attempt. Above this spot, some six
hundred feet on the hill side, and just at the base of a precipitous rock, there is, what has been named, the Flower Gardena spot where all varieties of wild plants grow and blossom.
And still higher than the Flower Garden, in the rock itself,
where the foot of man never trod and probably never will, is
the Eagle's Eyrie. All these spots, and the traces of many an
avalanche and land slide, may be seen by the tourist in sailing
down the Lake.
The WILLOUGIIBY LAKE IIousE, by ALONZO BEMIS, is a three
story edifice, located about one hundred rods from the Lake
and commanding a fine view of it.  There is a large piazza extending around the house and a promenade deck along the roof.
The house is well arranged. The sleeping rooms are spacious;
the parlors well furnished; and the tables well provided. Fish
abound in the Lake and especially the muscalunge, a species of
pickerel peculiar to the Lake.
120 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG
is another beautiful sheet of water, much larger and some what farther to the north than Willoughby. It is on the line
between Canada and Vermont. The distance thither from
Willoughby is eighteen miles-the first seven of which may be
accomplished, if desired, by boat. From thence a stage runs
to the Lake.
Memphremagog is thirty-five miles long and from one to six
wide. Its general courso is north and south. Black River,
Barton River, and the Clyde flow into it from Vermont. It
receives the waters of several small streams in Lower Canada
and empties, through Magog River, into the St. Francis and
thence into the St. Lawrence. It contains some islands of considerable size and great loveliness. There are several towns
and villages of respectable population along its shores.
OWL's ITEAD MT., 2,743 feet high, rises up on the western
side, and affords, from its summit, a view more extended and
magnificent than almost any other in this portion of New England. A bridle path has recently been constructed to the
summit. Lake Champlain, Massaweepee Lake, and Lake Willoughby, the White Mountains and the Green Mountains, the
rivers St. Lawrence and St. Francis can be clearly seen. In a
fair day the city of Montreal is also visible. Aside from these
more remote views, there is a most enchanting prospect at its
very base, along the entire length of the Lake.
The steamboat "Mountain Maid" has been enlarged the
past year to double its former size. It runs from Newport in
Vermont to Outlet Village in Canada, touching at different
places on the Lake, under the command of Capt. FoGO. There
are several good Hotels in these various places.  The MouvTAIN HIOUSE, near Owl's Head, is as comfortable as any and as
well kept.
2.  FRANCONIA via PLYMOUTII.  The traveller, as we said
before, may leave the cars at Plymouth and proceed directly
11
121 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
up the valley of the Pemigewasset to Franconia. This is, by
far, the shortest and most direct route to this part of the mountain region. The distance fromn Boston to Franconia is 145
miles; from Concord, 75. The time from Boston is ten hours.
Leaving New York by the evening boats, one may be in Franconia in season for tea the next day.   Fare, from Boston,
$6.00; from Concord, $3.85.
Leaving Concord in the ears as indicated on page 116, we
arrive at Plymouth in season for dinner. There are many
objects of interest at Plymouth, if one desires to remain and
become acquainted with the charms of the locality — BURNHAI'S
HOTEL is a desirable tarrying place for all in quest of health or
pleasure. Plymouth Village has a lovely situation, in the
midst of the finest scenery. From Walker's Hill, can be
obtained a capital view of the village and the river. Livermore's Falls, two miles north of the village, present a remarkable appearance. They are probably the result of volcanic
action, and invite the attention of the student of science, and
the lover of nature. Prospect Hill affords an unsurpassed view
of the most diversified character. Mountain, valley, lake, and
river, interspersed with fertile meadows, shining cottages, and
thrifty villages, within a ecircuit of thirty miles, meet the delighted eye in every direction, while in the north the rugged cliffis
and peaks of the Franconia and White Mountain ranges rise
like everlasting towers. This is the finest view, with the exception of Red Hill, south of the mountains.   The distance, from
the hotel, is, by carriage, three miles, and one additional mile
of bridle-path. Devil's Den is a cave from three hundred to
four hundred feet deep, and is situated in Campton Hollow, six
miles distant from Plymouth. Good trout-fishing may be found
at Waterville, eighteen miles distant.  Board may be obtained
in Plymouth at the PEMIGEWASSET HoUSE at the rate of $1.00
and $1.50 per day; in private families for $4 and $5.00 per
week.   If the traveller desires  to be independent of stage
122 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
coaches and railroads, he can obtain horses and drivers at the
livery stables in the village.
Should he choose the stage-coach, he will enjoy a most
delightful ride of twenty-four miles to the FLITME HOUSE, tracing the course of the Pemigewasset River. The road in some
places is rather rough, but the weariness of the way is amply
compensated by the variety of beautiful objects, that are everywhere  presented  to the  view.   The  river meanders  in its
winding course, now with placid and quiet current through
green meadows, and now in rapid and headlong torrent over its
pebbly bed, while little cascades are bursting from the hills,
falling in sheeted foam over the opposing rocks, to make their
way to the welcoming stream below. As the route leaves the
village, the mountains begin to appear in the distance. As the
distance lessens, the white porticos of the Flume House are
seen, welcoming our approach. The hotel seems like a "nest
among the mountains," as it is relieved by the dark mass, amid
which it rests.  The little villages of Campton and Thornton
are the resort of artists, who spend weeks in the vicinity sketching for future studies.  Campton is said to contain more points
for fine prospects, than any town in the neighborhood.  A quiet
little inn upon the roadside looks the abode of comfort. Woodstock and Lincoln are small towns of no particular note. The
road is now in the midst of the mountain region. The dark
hills loom up on every side, as the day departs. The Pemigewasset, now reduced to a little brook, murmurs at our feet.
We have seen the summits of the hills brighten in the rich glow
of sunset.  The clouds are tinged with golden light, changing
to soft purple, and the grey of evening. The stars come out,
the moon sends her gentle rays down into the valley. In the
late twilight, after a half day's exquisite enjoyment, we climb
the hill and soon alight beneath the grateful shelter of the
FLUMEr HousE.   The PROFILE IHOUSe is in the same region,
four miles distant, and passengers who desire, can immediately
proceed thither.
123 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
3. WIIITE MOUNTAIN NOTCII via CONWAY, Centre Harbor,
Lake Winnipisaukee, and Concord.  Distance from Boston,
172 miles. Time, 36 hours. Fare, $7.50.
At the WEIRS,  (32 miles from Concord; 106 from Boston;
and 73 from White Mountain Notch) we leave the cars of the
Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad (see page 116) and find
ourselves on
LAKE WINNIPISAUKEE.
The Lake lies in the two counties of Carroll and Belknap,
and is very irregular in form. At the west end, as we approach
it at the Weirs, it is divided into three large bays; at the north
is a fourth; and at the east end there are three others.  Its
general course is from southeast to northwest.   From one
extreme end to the other the distance is not far from twenty-five
miles. The width varies from one to seven miles. The towns
of Moultonborough, Wolf borough, Tuftonborough, Centre Harbor, Meredith, Gilford and Alton, lie upon its borders, while
from the high land of more distant towns fine views can be
obtained of its placid waters.
The waters of the Lake descend four hundred and seventytwo feet in finding their way to the Atlantic. A rapid river of
its own name, over which the railroad passes at Sanbornton
Bridge, serves as its outlet to the Merrimack. The depths of
Lake Winnipisaukee are remarkably clear, so that the fish can
be seen with great distinctness, playing among the stones at the
depth of many feet. The fish, of which there is a great variety,
can be frequently caught at the steamboat wharf. While the
boat is waiting for the arrival of the trains it is no uncommon
thing for the passengers to employ their leisure hours in keeping Capt. Walker's fishing tackle from rusting for want of
use.  The "oldest inhabitants," who know the haunts " where
fish do congregate," can convey you to rare sport. There is
one place, and one only, in the Lake where for about two weeks
large numbers of smelts can be caught. Then all disappear
124 
WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and none are seen till the recurrence of the same
merly, before so many dams obstructed their co
came up here from the sea to leave their spawn
bays.  The progress of manufactures has now gr
their ancient privileges.
Lake Winnipisaukee is a mountain lake.  Yet
all those wild rough features of mountain scenery
characterize inland waters in mountainous region'
tains rise on all sides, but the shore seen from
compartively smooth and level.  The islands,
precipitous and rocky, are covered with verdu
float like fairy castles upon the broad lake-mirro
usually approached in the calm and stillness of
sun.  The spirit of repose, incident upon the h
the escape from the hot, dusty cars, harmonizes
foliage of the islands and the quiet surface of t
and by, just after starting, a mild, balmy bree
the surface of the lake, and giving yourself up
influences, you no longer wonder at the Indian ad
gave it the name of "The beautiful water in a h
The Lake, in common with Lake George a
has its three hundred and sixty-five islands, a
extra one for leap year.  Indeed it would be a
the old tale if in future Lake Winnipisaukee shol
hundred and sixty-six for leap years and leave t
more vulgar tradition.
At the WEIRS, we embark upon the steamboat
OF TIHE LAKE."   This is a charming little stea
the safe protection of Capt. WM. WALKER, JR,
safely to Centre Harbor or Wolf borough.  Near
the head of the river, had you time, you mig
"Endicott Rock" with its quaint and curious ca
discovered a few years since by accident as they
a dam.  It is supposed to commemorate the follow
11*
125 
WHITE MIOUNTAIN GUIDE.
during the administration of Gov. Endicott, the General Court
of Massachusetts, desirous of more exactly ascertaining the
bounds of their colony, appointed Captains Edward Johnson and
Simon Willard commissioners  for the purpose of making  a
survey. The expedition which they headed, reached this spot,
where their Indian guide assured them the Merrimack had its
bhead waters.  The EI and S W  are the initials of the early
surveyors; the W  B  is considered an abbreviation of "Worshipful." The remainder probably alludes to the fact that the
expedition was undertaken during the  administration of Worshipful Gov. John Endicott. 
But the tinkling of the signal bell soon gives us warning that
we are to leave the wharf..-We now wind our way through the
numberless islands that cro/d our pati.  Red Hlill now appers
in sight and then is -lost behind ai intervening island.   An
opening between two islatids giv/you a view of Rattlesnake
Island.  The snake after whic]~-the,jsland is named is even
now t-o be found here.  None have been seen elsewhere about
the lake for many years.  Gunstock Mountain is also to be
~                      <1
View of'" Aunt Dolly's."
.,
126 
WIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
seen on the right, and on the opposite quarter Ossipee rears its
bare head. This mountain, the tourist will find difficulty in
escaping. The road towards the Notch winds round its base,
and not till he has passed over a good part of his journey
toward Conway, will he succeed in leaving it behind him.
About three miles from the Weirs we reach Bear Island, which
is nearly four miles long. Upon one of these numerous islands
there resided, in 1851, "solitary and alone," an aged spinster
familiarly known as "Aunt Dolly."   In this wild and romantic
spot, almost entirely cut off from the world, she lived in hermit
grandeur, taking care of her corn, her few sheep, and occasionally rowing her own skiff to the main land. At length, after a
ride of ten miles, we reach CENTRE HARBOR.
Should the traveller have leisure to spend upon this beautiful
Lake, he cannot do better than continue his journey to
WOLFBOROUGH.
The distance from Centre Harbor is about twei
usually accomplished in two hours.  For the first
course pursued is the same as that over which he X
But we soon'leave the old path and pass  thr
portion of the Lake than that just traversed.  ]
lightful trip in a clear morning or pleasant evenin
particularly, and when the evening shades begin
have the finest view of the distant mountains,
varying hues.
If it falls to the lot of the traveller to be ne
some bright moonlight evening, he should not f
a moonlight excursion is to take place.   These
frequently madeby parties from neighboring tow
the boat for that purpose.  They even come,
Concord and from Dover on extra trains.   A  ti
cursion can easily be obtained, and it will no
intrusion.  Rather than attempt any suggestion
of the Lake at such a time, we leave it to be al
or imagined.
127 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
The village at Wolfborough is delightfully situated on two
beautiful slopes of land rising from a bay of the Lake. The
"Pavillion," a spacious and comfortable hotel is situated on
the rising ground, commanding a fine view of the Lake.
Horses and carriages can be obtained at the livery stables.
Boats, for fishing parties or sailing excursions are also obtainable.
COPPLE CROWN MOUNTAIN, five miles from Wolf borough may
be easily ascended. The view from its summit is thought by
many to equal that from Red Hill. The mountain scenery is,
however, more distant. The prospect embraces an excellent
view of the Lake, a large number of villages, and some thirty
sheets of water in New Hampshire and Maine can be counted.
Vessels on the ocean can be discerned with a glass. Adjoining
Copple Crown, on the northeast, is a smaller mountain of sin gular formation, called " Tumble-down-Dick."  Mt. Washing ton may be distinctly discerned in a clear day.
The price of board is from $5.00 to $10.00 per week.
Leaving Wolf borough we return by the steamer to
CENTRE HARBOR.   This beautiful summer retreat is situated
on the n6rthern shore of the Lake, between Winnipisaukee and
Squam Lake. Its fine location and beautiful scenery have long
made it a favorite resort for those accustomed to frequent the
Lake.   The fine excursions, which can be made along the
shores of the Lake- around  the "ring," skirting on Squam
Lake-or to Red Hill, render it very attractive. Good boats
are also to be had for fishing parties upon the Lake.
The SENTER HOUSE,  by GILMAN &  HUNTRESS, formerly of
the Profile House, is a large and pleasant hotel.  It is situated
on the rising ground facing the Lake, of which it commands an
excellent view. The hotel, one of the best in the mountain
region, is commodious and well furnished, and has been long
and favorably known for the convenience of its arrangements,
the perfection of its table, and courtesy of the proprietors.   An
extensive livery stable is connected with the hotel.  MOULTON'S
HOTEL is a smaller house near by.
!.!.....:.: 
128 
WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
The chief object of interest in the immediate vicinity of
Centre Harbor is
RED HILL.
From this hill, about four miles distant, in Moultonborough,
the best view of the Lake and the circumjacent scenery can be
obtained. Its height, two thousand five hundred feet, places
before the eye of the observer an extensive, varied, and picturesque tract of country, perhaps nowhere excelled in New
England. It is by no means difficult to climb. There is a
wagon-path to the base, and thence well trained ponies convey
you to the summit. The top is destitute of trees and bushes,
and affords an uninterrupted prospect far and wide. In clear
days the peaks of the White Mountains are dimly discernable
in the far north; the Ossipee Mountains appear in the east; a
little to the north, Chocorua, recalling its Indian tradition, rears
its craggy summit; and still farther away the mountains of
Maine  close in the view.  Kearsarge and Monadnock are
plainly visible at the southwest, with Gunstock at the southeast.
Squam Lake, six miles long, is glittering in the sunshine on the
west.
But to the south and east lies Winnipisaukee, the gem of all
New England Lakes.   The ascent of Red Hill is usually
made in the forenoon; but to enjoy the exquisite loveliness of
Winnipisaukee it should be made in the afternoon or in the
early morning. In the middle of the day the blinding glare of
the sun upon the water almost robs it of the quiet beauty of its
softness and harmony.  But in the afternoon the sun illumines
with a genial glow the calm expanse of the distant surface of
the Lake; the rippling waves just reflect its image; the hundred islands assume their peculiar form of grace and loveliness;
the mountains on the opposite shore, from a glow of crimson,
change to a brown purple, as the lingering rays of the setting
sun leave them, one by one; while the advancing shadows of
those nearer to you change to a new form the fairy outline of
129 
WIIITE MIOUNTAIN GUIDE.
the Lake.  If, too, you are early riser enough to see, from its
summit, the sun roll up majestically from behind the opposite
hills, you will acknowledge that Lake Winnipisaukee possesses
a charm and beauty peculiar to itself.
Coaches leave Centre Harbor for Conway regularly every
day soon after the arrival of the morning boat from the Weirs.
Ample time is allowed for dining on the boat, or, after landing,
at the excellent hotel just spoken of. The distance to Conway
is thirty miles, and the fare from Centre Harbor $2.50.
MOULTONBOROUGII, five miles from Centre Harbor, contains
Red Hill.  Ossipee Mountain, moreover, extends into it.  On
that part of the mountain, within the limits of the town are two
springs of some note; the one a mineral chalybeate spring,
sovereign for cutaneous diseases; the other simply a spring of
good cold water, sovereign for thirstiness, sixteen feet in diameter, and through the centre of which the water, containing a
quantity of fine white sand, is thrown up two feet. From this
source flows a beautiful stream, which, about a mile below, has
a perpendicular descent of about seventy feet.   On its left side
is a cave containing relics of Indian life. Many of these relics
have been found in various parts of the town, and it is probable that the Ossipee tribe of Indians had their residence near
here.
S.ANDWICHI is a small rocky town, merely touched upon in
one corner.  White Face Mountain in this town is 2,970 feet
high. It is visible from the road. The course of a land-slide
which occurred about thirty years' ago can easily be traced on
the south side. At Centre Sandwich, a few miles from the
main road, the traveller will find neat and quiet accommodation
at the hotel kept by James HII. Durgin. Squamr Lake is quite
near the hotel and the mountain brooks abound in trout. The
price of board is from $3.00 to $10.00 per week.
TAM,IWORTEt is sixteen miles from  Centre Harbor.  Thence
coasting aloIng the shores of Ossipee Pond, a bcatifal sheet of
130 
WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
water lying in the town of Madison, after a drive of fourteen
miles Conway is reached.   Ossipee signifies " Pine  River."
The Pond is also sometimes called Pequawket Lake.
In this latter part of the drive, a fine view is obtained of Mt.
Chocorun (" The old bear.") It is one of the most notable
of the lower peaks of the White Mountain range. It is 3,358
feet high and without vegetation-other than such as a few blueberries or cranberries.create.  It is, in fact, a granite mountain,
with pinnacles and precipices, sharp, angular peaks and unex petted descents;-a countless myriad of great boulders, hurled
together by more than Titanic force.  One of the peaks of
Chocorua is the scene of the tragic incident from which the
peak derives its name, so beautifully narrated by Mrs. Seba
Smith.
CONWAY, though the gate to the mountain region, is one of
the most level towns in the State.  In itself it possesses few
objects of interest. In the vicinity, however, are brooks well
stocked with trout.  Most of the objects of interest in North
Conway, also, are accessible from this place.  Here, however,
the stage remains over night.  The CONWAY HousE, kept by
JONATHAN DOW, is an excellent hotel. It is particularly famous
for its omelettes, which will be found very palatable after the
ride from Centre Hlarbor.
From Conway to Gibb's Hotel the distance is thirty-three
miles. The fare is $2.50. The road, though hilly and broken,
affords charming landscape views.
Five miles farther on, in the valley of the Saco, and surrounded on all sides by mountains, lies
NOTII CONWAY, the favorite resort of our  New  England
Artists.  Many families resort to this place in the summer
season to avoid the noise, bustle and expense of large hotels.
The Saco river here is from ten to twelve rods wide, and usually
about two feet deep.  It has been known to rise 27, and even
30 feet in twenty-four hours.  Large quantities of magnesia
131 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
and fullers' earth are found in the town.  Three good hotels
are located here; the WASHINGTON HOUsE, by W. C. EASTMAN,
is three stories high and will accommodate about seventy-five;
the KEARSARGE HOUSE, by SAMUEL  W.  THOMPsoN; and the
NORTH CONWAY HOUSE, by N. R. MASON. Echo Lake, Diana's
B3ath, the Cathedral, White Horse and Hart's Ledge are places
much visited and within three hours ride. Kearsarge or Pequawket mountain, 3,367 feet above sea level, is an object of interest.
The hotel erected on the summit has almost fallen to decay.
The view of the mountains from North Conway is very charming. The accompanying engraving may serve to give one an
idea of the scene.
A pleasant ride of ten miles brings us to
UPPER BARTLETT.  At this point we join the travel between
the Glen House and Gibb's.  For a further description see
page 45.
V.   NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H., by way of Worcester,
Nashua and Manchester. The traveller may leave New York
in the morning by route No. IV, page 95, and go to Woicester.  From I'd orcester he will proceed to Nashua and arrive
at Concord at 8 P. M. and leave for the mountains by routes
above  t40:30  the next morning.   Distance  275  miles.
Fare, $6.      Or  he may leave in the evening over the same
route or by the bat to Allyn's Point, route No. III, page 93,
and, waiting at Worcester till morning, proceed to Concord,
arriving in season to go to the mountains by the same trains as
before. Fare by boat, $5.00.
It is in contemplation, during the present season, to run a
passenger car the entire distance between Allyn's Point and
Littleton by the way of Worcester, Nashua, Concord, Weirs
and Plymouth. A return car, to connect with the boat for
New York, will also leave Littleton and go all the way to
Allyn's Point. By this arrangement, the traveller will leave
132 
ii
CD)                                   i
0
4
12 
WHIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
New York in the evening, step on board the cars at Allyn's
Point, proceed, with a short detention at Worcester, over the
whole of his journey by rail, to the Weirs, to Plymouth, or to
Littleton in the samne ear. Returning he will go without any
change of cars directly to the steamboat at Allyn's Point.
Much confusion and trouble will thus be avoided.
Should the preference be given to the Railroad line, the
traveller will take the cars of the New York and New Haven
Railroad, which skirts the northern shore of Long Island Sound.
For a distance of seventy-six miles, it passes through numerous
agricultural villages and the busy cities of NORWALK and
BRIDGEPORT.  The cars leave the passenger station on Twenty
seventh street at the advertised time.
WILLIAMS BRIDGE is the junction with the Harlem Railroad.
EAST CHESTER, NEW ROCIHELLE, MAMARONECK and RYE, are
small villages in the State of New York. The road crosses the
State line into Connecticut, soon after leaving PORT CHIIESTER.
GREENWICH, STAMFORD, and DARIEN are pleasant, agricultural
and maritime towns in the "land of steadv habits."  NORWALK
will be painfully remembered as the scene of the distressing
accident, which occurred on this Road a few years ago, the cars
running off the track through the open draw of the bridge
across the Norwalk river, and maimning and killing several persons. We gladly leave this place behind us, and hurry on
through WESTPORT, SOUTHPORT, and FAIRFrIELD, all quiet,
cheerful towns, to the fine city of BRIDGEPORT. This place has
a large fishing and coasting interest, and considerable manufactures. Here the Housatonic Railroad forms a junction with
the New Haven Road, and offers a beautiful avenue of travel
through the exquisite scenery of western Connecticut and Massachusetts. Passing on, we go rapidly through STRATFrORD,
(the junction of the Naugatuck Railroad,) MILrORD, and WEST
HAVEN, to NEW HAVEN, which is one of the finest cities of New
England. A stroll through the quiet streets, enshadowed by
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thousands of graceful elms, and lined with comfortable, and,
in some instances, palatial residences, intermingled with ivycovered  churches, is most satisfactory  and enjoyable.   The
visitor will notice the (Yale) College Green and buildings, and
the State House. The Canal Railroad connects New Haven
with Northampton by a rival route to the Springfield and Itartford Road.   The  New  Haven  and  New  London Railroad
furnishes a route to Providence, a small steamboat plying between New London and Stonington, connecting at the latter
with Stonington and Providence Railroad.
Leaving New Haven, we pass quickly through NORTII HAVEN,
WALLINGFORD, MERIDEN, BERLIN, and NEWINGTON, which is
the station for WETHERSFIELD,  - over whose vegetable productions many tears have been vainly shed, - to
HARTFORD.  This is a much  more busy and bustling place,
than its twin sister, which we have just left. Here also is a
State House, for Connecticut, in common with Rhode Island,
rejoices in two capitals.  The reason of it must be traced to
colonial prejudice. The two settlements were formerly under
different governments, and when they were united into one
State, it was found necessary to establish two places of government, to satisfy both parties. Among the public buildings,
may be noticed the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, the Retreat
for the Insane, and Trinity College, all handsome establishments. Some of the most elegant and expensive Churches in
New England are found in this city. The Trumbull Gallery
and Library is worth a visit. Hartford is the residence of Mrs.
Sigourney, and, was at one time, that of Andrew Jackson
Davis. A cultivated and intelligent society makes the place
attractive, both for strangers and residents. The Allyn House,
a new and elegant Hotel, occupies a fine site, a short distance
from the depot, and is a model house of entertainment.
At this point, we come into the valley of the Connecticut,
which, for those who leave this route at Springfield and go by
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the way of Bellow's Falls, will be in sight for a great part of
the time, till they arrive at Well's River, Vt.   Stopping for a
moment at WINDSOR, we cross the river at WINDSOR LocKS, a
busy village, thence through ENFIELD and TIIOmIPSONVILLE, we
cross the State line into Massachusetts at LONGMEADOW, one of
the best farming towns in western Massachusetts.   It is only
four miles farther to
SPRINGFIELD.  The MTASSASOIT HOUSE and the RUSSELL HlOUSE
are both first class houses near the depot.  If the traveller desires to remain over night, or for a longer time, he will find no
more comfortable place anywhere than at these hotels. The
United States Armory is about a mile distant, and will well repay the trouble of a visit, while the city itself, with its nice,
well shaded streets, its fine residences, and its agreeable social
life, will furnish many inducements for a prolonged stay. To
those, going up the valley of the Connecticut, a short stop is
allowed for dinner. The passenger for Concord now passes
through the centre of Massachusetts, a fine agricultural district,
to
WORCEsTER.   Here we join the line of travel from New York,
via Allyn's Point, described. From Worcester our route lies
over the Worcester and Nashua Railroad which passes through
a number of small towns, of considerable thrift.  From WEST
BOYLSTON to STERLING JUNCTION, Mt. Wachusett, eight miles
distant, may be observed, in a westerly direction. At Sterling
Junction, a portion of the train branches to Fitchburg, giving
passengers an opportunity to proceed to the valley of the Connecticut, over the Cheshire Railroad.
CLINTON is a busy manufacturing town.
LANCASTER is a delightful village, affording many fine views
from various points.  At STILL RIivkR an excellent view of the
surrounding country is obtained.  HARVARID STATION is at some
distance from the town, which stands high and is mubch esteemed
for a quiet summer residence.
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GP.OTON JUNcTION is a quiet enough place at any other time
than upon the arrival of the cars. Then it is a scene of great
disorder.  Six trains simultaneously arrive and depart over the
Fitchburg, Worcester & Nashua, Stony Brook (for Lowell)
and Peterboro' & Shirley Railroads. Old ladies with brown
paper parcels and umbrellas, young ladies with band-boxes,
fond parents with frightened babies, bewildered old gentlemen,
and smart young dandies, who are too knowing to inquire, and
invariably go wrong, polite conductors, and hurrying express
carriers, are mingled in almost inextricable confusion. But the
railway officials are patient and attentive, and do their best to
prevent mistakes. Those unfortunates, who are always making
blunders, should by all means, avoid Groton Junction. We
advise the traveller to keep his seat, his baggage check, and
his equanimity, and be grateful when the train is fairly under
way again, and this babel is seen no more.
GROTON,  PEPPERELL  and IIOLLIS are agricultural  towns,
located on elevated ground, and present from different prominent points, some exceedingly pretty pictures.
We at length reach NASIIUA, and the continuation of the
route is the same as described on the 109th and following pages.
VI. NEW YOPKr TO FRANCONIA, via Springfield and Bellows
Falls.   Distance to Bellows Falls, 222  miles;  fare  $6.00.
Cars leave New York at 8 o'clock, A. M.; arrive at Bellows
Falls at 6 o'clock, P. M., stopping at Springfield half an hour
for dinner. Railroads: New York & New Haven; New Haven
& Springfield; Connecticut River; Vermont Valley.
From New York to Springfield, the route is the same as described on the 134th and following pages. At Springfield, we
take the cars of the Connecticut River Railroad, and continue
up the valley of the river.
The Connecticut River Railroad extends from Springfield to
South Vernon, Vt., and passes through Cabotville, Chicopee,
12*
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Willimansett, three busy manufacturing villages; then crossing
to the west bank of the river, into the new city of HIolyoke, it
winds along under the shadow of Mt. Tom, 1,200 feet high, to
Northampton, which is like a Paradise in its rural charms and
graces. A noted Water Cure Establishment, at Round Hill,
commanding an entensive view, is located in this town. Amherst College is seven miles distant, on the opposite side of the
river, and Mt. Holyoke near it, 830 feet above the river, is
distinctly seen. The route passes on through Hatfield, Whately,
South Deerfield, and Deerfield, containing the finest farms and
meadows of this section, across the Deerfield River to
GREENFIELD,  a smart, busy, thriving place.  Should the
tourist desire to stop a while here, he will find a good home at
the Mansion House.   One of the most popular places of resort
for the town's people is TIHE GLEN, a most lovely, retired spot,
just beyond the town line, in the town of Lyndon. Turner's
Falls, in the Connecticut, in the neighborhood of which are to
be found the gigantic " bird-tracks," familiar to geologists, are
about four miles distant, over a good road. Leaving Greenfield,
the Railroad passes through Bernardston, to South Vernon, on
the boundary line of Vermont. Here an opportunity is presented of visiting Keene, the most important town in southwestern New Hampshire, by taking the cars of the Ashuelot
Railroad, passing through the small towns of Hinsdale, the resdence of the present Governor of the State, Winchester, and
Swanzey. From Keene, the traveller can proceed over the
Cheshire Railroad, to Bellows Falls, through East Westmoreland, Westmoreland and Walpole, within sight of Mt. Monadnock. Should he choose not to diverge at South Vernon, he
will take the cars of the Vermont Valley Railroad, and will
soon reach Brattleboro', famous for its fine Water Cure, the
purity and salubrity of its climate, its agreeable society, and the
marvellous beauty of the surrounding scenery.  Chesterfield
Mountain, on the New Hampshire bank of the Connecticut, is
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a favorite place of resort. From an observatory on its summit,
a wide panorama is to be seen, closed by the peaks of the White
Hills in the northern distance.  Brattleboro' furnishes the most
numerous attractions for a summer residence of any town in this
vicinity. Thence the road lies through Dummerston-the site
of a military fortress in the Revolution, called Fort DummerPutney, East Putney, and Westminster. At 6 o'clock, P. M.
the traveller will be very glad to step from the cars at
BELLOWS FALLS, distant from New York, 222 miles. This
is a delightfully situated village, on the Vermont side of
the Connecticut River.  The ISLAND HOUSE, a short distance
from the station, occupies a favorable site. It is a new, and
well built structure, and furnishes a quiet home either for the
invalid or the pleasure seeker. Directly in the rear, rises a
lofty hill, presenting a fine view from its summit, which is easily
reached. There is also a view obtainable from the bridge over
the Connecticut in this place, well worthy of the tourist's attention. The river, which above is deep, broad and tranquil,
with a width.of about a thousand feet, and which below expands
to an equal or greater surface, is, at this spot, beneath the bridge,
compressed within a channel not more than twenty feet wide.
Through this channel-confined on either side by a high granite
wall, the whole volume of the Connecticut is forced, with a
power and rapidity, which whitens its waters like a tide of snowflakes. The fall is in no place perpendicular but in the distance
of half a mile the waters descend forty-two feet. These falls
were formerly a favorite resort of the Indians for purposes of
fishing. Salmon were caught here in great numbers till within
a recent period. Just below the bridge, on the west side of the
river, will be noticed a large flat rock, covered with hiero glyphics and rude portraits, supposed to have been cut by the
aboriginal frequenters of this place.
On the following morning, we proceed north over the Sullivan
Railroad, leaving Bellows Falls about noon. Charlestown is a
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good farming town, well situated on the eastern bank of the
Connecticut, which the road has crossed at Bellows Falls.
Claremont is a pleasant manufacturing village on a small stream,
emptying into the Connecticut.   There are several cotton,
woollen, and paper mills, besides other manufacturing establishments. Eleven miles farther the road again crosses the river,
and brings the tourist to
WINDsOR, VT. As the cars run up the valley, the traveller
will notice Mt. Ascutney, on the Vermont side, 3,200 feet high,
and of easy ascent. Along the banks of the river and at the
base of the hills, the eye will be gratified with the sight of
numerous neat and pleasant farm houses, whose outward appearance betokens the comfort and happiness of their inmates.
Windsor is a place of considerable size and prominence. The
Vermont State Prison is located here, and has obtained considerable reputation for the excellent quality of the fire-arms of
various kinds manufactured by the inmates.
Taking the cars of the Vermont Central Railroad, we continue our journey through Hartland and North Hartland, to
White River Junction. The remainder of this route is the same
as described on the 112th and following pages.
VII. NEW YORK TO FRANCONIA, via North River and Bellows Falls, Vt. Distance to Bellows Falls, 287 miles. Leave
by boat or railroad 6:30, and 7, A. M.; arrive at Rutland, 9,
P. M. Leave Rutland, 5:45, A. M.; arrive at Bellows Falls
8:30, A. M. Fares by boat to Albany, $5; by rail, $7.
Railroads: Itudson River; Washington & Rutland or Western
Vermont; Rutland and Burlington.
The Hudson River has sometimes been called the Rhine of
America. Intelligent and unprejudiced foreigners have pronounced the American stream superior to the European in every
respect.  It is navigable a much longer distance for vessels of
considerable size; its scenery is more varied, and there is more
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WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
life and action along its banks.  If it wants the addition of
castles crowning the summits of the adjacent hills, the absence
is more to be wished for than their presence. They are associated with times of barbarism, oppression, and the cruelty
of feudal war. Our hills, reposing in the sunlight, or dark
with the passage of storm clouds, are dear to us, from the
associations which they have with the triumphs of liberty.
Almost every point, from New York through the Highlands,
even to Albany, has its history as connected with our revolutionary struggle. The interest which gathers around our recollections of Washington and his soldiers adds to the inspiring
influence, which the contemplation of the natural beauties of
the region excites. Our eyes rest on the same scenes, which
our great captain loved to gaze upon.   Our feet may tread the
same paths, along which he rode in anxious thought, or in the
fore-consciousness of victory.  Every true patriot must be proud
of the Hudson.
We remember, too, that it was upon this river, that the first
successful experiment in steam navigation was made by Fulton.
iHe bravely persevered in his project of sailing, by means of
steam, against the scoffs and jeers of all his friends, and when
his boat left the pier,, and made her way against the tide up the
beautiful river, he had' the joy of exciting, even among the
most incredulous, the wildest enthusiasm of admiration. It is
related that the crews of the vessels which he passed, as the
strange bark approached them, with its volumes of smoke
and its noisy machinery, were overwhelmed with affright. "They
shrank from their decks at the terrific sight, and left their vessels
to go ashore, while others prostrated themselves and besought
Providence to protect them from the approach of the horrible
monoster, that was marching on the tide, and lighting its path by
the fire which it vomited." The world has moved since then.
For the journey to Albany, the summer tourist has his choice
of travel. If he desires speed, he can step on board the comfortable Iludson River RPailroad cars and run his own risk of
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sight-seeing. If he wishes to enjoy the scenery, and is not so
timid, as the " unprotected female," who would not step foot
upon a steamboat, till the runner assured her, that his "boat
had no boiler and so there was no danger of explosion"-let
him select some fine day, and take one of the day boats to
Albany. For the modest sum of seventy-five cents, he can
have a four hours' sail to WEST POINT, passing under the shadows of the Palisades, and through a large portion of the
Highlands.
On leaving New York, he will notice, upon the opposite bank,
which belongs to the State of New Jersey-the busy JERsEY
CITY, and the charming HOBOKEN, and just above the duelling
ground of Burr and Hamilton. FonRT LEE still on the New
Jersey side is at the beginning of the PALISADES. These are
composed of a wonderful formation of basaltic or trap rock, are
in height from two to five hundred feet, and extend with their
frowning precipices, within a few feet of the water's edge, for a
distance of twenty-five miles along the western bank of the
river. This countinuous line of perpendicular cliffs is a most
remarkable object. Underneath them, on the small strip of
beach, may occasionally be seen a little village of two or three
houses, with a landing place for the passing vessels. An
occasional ravine, leading up the steep side of the bluff furnishes
carriage communication with the interior.  In some instances,
no such communication exists, and the scanty inhabitants depend
entirely upon the river for connection with the outside world.
The summits of the Palisades are well wooded with a luxuriant
growth of various kinds of trees,'Just beyond, in the immediate interior, and at a considerable elevation above the river is
the famous Rockland Pond, which supplies a large part of New
York City with the purest ice. The view from the summit of
the Palisades is superb. On a clear afternoon, the passing
sails upon Long Island Sound can be discerned in the distance,
while in the foreground, a long reach of the North River, from
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WIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
the Bay  to the Tappan Zee, the rich farms of Westchester
county, and the fine country seats of the New York millionaires
upon the opposite banks, with the picturesque appearance of
the small steamers plying to and from the city and its suburbs,
the numerous sloops and schooners, with the sun glistening on
their wings, as they go and come, combine to form a picture,
which, when once seen, is unfadingly daguerreotyped upon the
memory. The tourist, however, is on board the steamboat, and
this view is denied him. In default of it, we point out to him
MIANIIATTANVILLE, with its green lawns and pleasant residences;
FORT WASHIIINGTON, a memorable place in the Revolution; and
a structure in the form of a castle, built of stone, the erection
of Mr. Edwin Forrest. To a man more interested in the movements of the present day, than in attempts to reproduce the
past, the arrangement for the conveyance of the telegraphic
wires from the island, upon which the city of New York is
situated, to the West and South will be of much greater interest.
An immensely tall flagstaff, secured by numerous iron cables,
rises upon the eastern bank of the river.   From the top of this
the wires are-suspended in mid-air across to a staff erected upon
the Palisades.  Part of the necessary wires are laid in the bed
of the river across to the opposite side, and thus, the great
business connections of New York with the country are established.
Passing onward, we reach YONIKERS, a pleasant village upon
the eastern bank of the river, the residence of " Mr. Sparrowgrass," whose beautiful and commodious dwelling hardly
suggests the ludicrous inconveniences of "living in the country." Four miles farther is Donns' FERRY, which has its historical reminiscences. Opposite this place, a few miles above,
is PIERMONT, the freight terminus of the New York and Erie
Railroad.  A massive pier, a mile in length, extends into the
river, on which are built the railroad tracks, and the immense
freight depots, necessary for the great business of the road.
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
On the eastern bank, a mile or two above Dobbs' Ferry, is
SUNNY SIDE, the residence of WASIIINGTON IRVING.  The house
can just be discerned, peeping through the luxuriant foliage
that embowers it.  It is a home for a poet.  Before the railroad
was built, the lawn extended to the river side, and a little creek
making up immediately below, gave the estate a situation like
a little cape. It was a great annoyance to the quiet student,
to have his place invaded by the "march of improvement,"
and he expressed the wish, that he "might have been born after
the world was fairly finished."
We now enter upon the TAPPAN ZEE, passing on the East,
SING SING, the location of the famous New York State Prison,
and on the West, the village of NYAK, where Major Andre was
executed. We pass quickly, through the fleet of vessels which
covers the waters of Tappan Zee, and enter upon the Highlands
through IIAVERSTRAW BAY.   In rapid succession we see on the
west, the villages of IH.AVERSTRAW, GRAsSY POINT, STONY POINT,
with the old Fort Clinton.  Opposite Stony Point, is VERPLANCK
POINT. Above, on the east, is the picturesque village of
PEEKSKILL,  and we are now in the beautiful region of the
HIGHLANDS.  The hills rise abruptly from the water, the steamer
in some instancessing within biscuit throw of the shore.
The slopes Bee covered with verdure, and fine trees, prominent
among whi6h is a beautiful species of cedar, growing with its
lower limbs close to the soil, and rising in conical form, affording
a most pleasing object in the landscape.  Some of the hills are
almost perpentidicular precipices, where the foot of man has
scarcely trod.  The heights seem impregnable, and Wa.shington
showed his consummate generalship, in fortifying these strong
positions, and making the HIudson the base of his operations in
the North through the whole Revolutionary war. Had the
treachery of Arnold been successful, the issue of the struggle
would have been most disastrous to the colonies.  We are now
drawing near to WEST POINT, our first landing place since
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WIIITE MIOUNTAIN GUIDE.
leaving New York.  As we approach the wharf, we see CozzXNs'
HOTEL, a fine building overlooking the river, and occupying
one of the finest sites for its purposes, to be found in the region.
At the landing place are omnibusses to convey passengers to
the different hotels. If one wishes to reach West Point by
railroad, he must purchase a ticket for GARRISON'S, where he
will find a small steam ferry boat, to convey him across the
river. The route by railroad passes through the villages enumerated, on the east bank, and follows the river in all its windings, passing through tunnels of solid rock, and over bridges of
massive strength. Some of the views obtained from the several
points, which jut into the river, are exceedingly fine, and will
convince the traveller that whether he goes by rail or boat, the
trip up the Hudson is most delightful.
WEsT POINT has a national interest, as the site of the United
States Military Academy, for the training of officers for the
United States Army. The village is pleasantly situated in a
basin formed by the depression of the land between the river
on the east, and a semicircular range of hills on the west. It
is almost completely separated from the outside world, and furnishes a most retired and excellent place for the purposes of its
location. It is fifty-two miles from New York, and is reached
in two hours and a half by rail, and three and a half hours by
boat. Two good hotels furnish the traveller with the very best
accommodations, at the price of $2.50 per day. Cozzens'
Hotel is'about a mile below the landing, and is a first-class
house. Roe's Hotel, is somewhat nearer in a northerly direction, and has the additional advantage of'being in the immediate
vicinity of all the objects of interest. The parade ground of
the Cadets is directly in front, and all the evolutions of the
military drill in the Infantry, Cavalry, and Artillery service can
be easily witnessed. During the months of July and August,
with a portion of June and September, the Cadets live altogether in encampment, and the sojourner at Roe's will not be
13
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
disagreeably disturbed from his morning slumbers, by the sound
of the reveille, almost beneath his windows.   From the rear
piazza of the hotel looking up the river is enjoyed a view of unsurpassed loveliness-being the reverse of that so familiar,
looking down the river from Newburg. On the southern side
of the Parade Ground, opposite the hotel, are ranged, the stone
stables for the horses, and drill rooms, the Library, the residences of the Professors, and the barracks for the Cadets, the
Arsenal and Laboratory. At the latter place may be seen some
trophies of the Revolution, a brass mortar, captured at Stony
Point, two smaller ones taken from Burgoyne, and a part of the
chain, which Putnam stretched across the river to obstruct the
passage of the British Ships of War. Above, are the ruins
of Fort Putnam, which has so romantic and interesting a his.
tory, and from the summit of which an exquisite view is obtained. Not the least of the matters at West Point, which will
interest the student of history, is the monument erected to Kosciusko, upon the eastern edge of the Parade. Among those
which will interest our fair readers, are the tri-weekly hops at
the Hall of the Academy, for the gratification of the Cadets
and their numerous visitors.
Leaving West Point, where a most enjoyable visit may be
made, we pass UNDERCLIFF, on the east, the residence of Geo.
P. Morris, and IDLEWILD on the west, the residence of N. P.
Willis. Then we stop a few moments at NEWBURG, a busy
town, the residence of the late A. J. Downing. FISIIKILL lies
opposite, on the east bank. Farther on, is POUGHKEEPSIE, on
the east side, a well built and pleasant town, with considerable
trade, equidistant from Albany and New York, and beyond the
Highlands.  To compensate for the loss of these, the Cattskill
Mountains begin to loom up in the distance. Snugly ensconced
upon the side of one of the highest, may be seen the MOUNTAIN
House, the finest hotel in the region. CATTSKILL LANDING is
reached, from New York, about 2 o'clock, P. M., by boat;
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WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
OAKHILL station by rail, with ferry across, somewhat earlier.
A ride of four hours by stage, mostly ascending, through the
regions of Rip Van Winkle, and affording most delightful
glimpses, through the trees, of the widening prospect, brings
the weary traveller to the hotel, which for neatness, elegance,
beauty of situation, and all creature-comforts, is unequalled on
the river. The view from the Table Rock, on which the house
stands is most captivating. You look down a precipice, hundreds of feet in depth, and over the wide-lying, intervale farms
on the plains below, to the noble Hudson, flecked with the
white sails of passing vessels, while the mountains of Vermont
and New Hampshire in the distance afford a fine background to
the beautiful picture. The Catskill Falls are distant about a
mile and a half from the hotel, and are well worth a visit.
Price of board at hotel, $3.00 per day; Omnibus to Falls, 50
cents; Stage from Steamboat Landing, $1.25.
Above Cattskill, there are villages lining the banks of the
river. The most considerable place on the east side is HUDSON,
a city of some importance.  Above this, are COLUMBIA, STUY.
VESANT, and KINDERHOOK.  GREENBUSH:, opposite Albany, with
which it connects by means of a ferry boat, is the terminus of
the Hudson River Railroad proper, and, also, of the Western
Railroad, between Boston and Albany.
ALBANY is the oldest city in the Union, with the exception of
Jamestown, Va., but its antique appearance is gradually yielding to the progress of the time. Only a few relics remain.
The most prominent objects in the city are the Capitol, on State
St., the Museum, the Academy, Stanwix Hall, and the City
Hall, the dome of which is imposingly gilded. There are some
fine churches, and some fair hotels. The Delevan House, and
Congress Hall have the widest reputation.   Of these, the latter,
though most distant from the landing must have the preference.
A  few miles above Albany is TRoY, on the East bank of
the Hudson, and connected with its great rival, by ferry to
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Greenbush, and thence by rail to Troy -the cars running at
short intervals, and connecting immediately, at both places, with
all the trains north, east, south and west.  The railroad station
at Troy is very commodious, and admirably arranged and
managed. The city is very neat, and contains some fine
churches, a Female Academy of some celebrity, and good hotels. Of these, the Troy Ilouse is the best. The Union,
Mansion House, and American are to be ranked next.  The
last house, though not so fashionable as the others, has the reputation of cleanliness and comfort.
On the opposite shore is the United States Arsenal at Gibbonsville.
Leaving Troy, the traveller has a choice of two routes to
RUTLAND, Vt.; one over the Troy &  Boston Road to EAGLE
BRIDGE, connecting there with the Rutland & Washington Railroad, or over the same road to NORTH BENNINGTON, connecting
there with the Western Vermont Railroad. If he take the
former, he will pass through  LANSINGBURG, an exceedingly
pleasant town; and, (after leaving Eagle Bridge, which is the
place of junction for two or three railroads,) SALEM, a place of
considerable importance. North of Salem, he will pass into the
State of Vermont, and find himself amid all the beauties of the
Green Mountains.  The Great Haystack is in sight from this
road. The track crosses the line again above PAWLET, Vt.,
and at MIDDLE GRANVILLE, the road is in New York. Four
miles from this latter station, lies NORTH GRANVILLE, a most
retired, pleasant, healthy, and picturesque village, the site of a
Female Seminary of deserved reputation. Crossing again into
Vermont, we stop a moment at CASTLETON, a lovely little village,
the junction of the Whitehall and Saratoga Railroad; thence to
Rutland, arriving if by morning train, about 1, P. M., if by
evening train, at 9, P. M.
The route, over the Western  Vermont  Railroad,  passes
through SIAFTESBURY, ARLINGTON, and SUNDERLAND, all pleas
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ant villages, to MANCHESTER, one of the finest towns in this
section of Vermont. A capital hotel has been opened here
within the last few years, called the Equinox House, and is beginning to be a place of great resort, on account of the natural
beauties of the place, the fine drives in the neighborhood, and
the reasonable prices for the excellent accommodations which
are afforded. DORSET, WALLINGFORD, and CLARENDON have an
air of comfort and quiet.
There is a third route from Troy to Rutland by way of SARATOGA, passing through BALLSTON. Leaving Saratoga by the
Saratoga & Washington Railroad, the traveller passes through
GANSEvOORT,  MOREAN,  FORT  EDWARD,  the site of a good
Academy,  FORT ANN,  COMSTOCK'S,  WHITEHALL, and HYDEVILLE to CASTLETON, there joining the Rutland & Washington
Road. The times of arrival on all these routes are very nearly
the same.
RUTLAND is the shire town of Rutland County and is one of
the most important places of Central and Southern Vermont,
containing about 4000 inhabitants. The central village is a
thriving, comfortable place. The Bardwell House, situated
very nearly opposite the Railroad Station, is a fine structure of
brick, containing one hundred commodious rooms, and is
altogether just such a home, as the tourist desires, after a hard
day's travel. The charges are moderate; (per day, $2.00;
per week, $7.00 to $10.50;) the table is well furnished and
attended; the rooms are neat, clean and abundantly supplied;
all substantial comforts are provided without offensive display.
Situated as Rutland is, at the junction'of four railroad routes,
and within easy distance of Lakes Champlain and George, and
almost in the midst of the mountains, it is a most desirable
place for summer resort. The extensive Marble Quarries, the
"Springs" at Clarendon, celebrated for their medicinal qualities, Sutherland Falls, called by Willis, "one of the loveliest
places in the world," and Killington Peak nearly 4,000 feet
149 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
high, the loftiest peak of the Green Mountains in this region,
are all in the immediate vicinity, and can be visited at a small
expense; while "mine host," Cooke, will see that in-door arrangements for good living are not wanting.  The disciple of
Isaak Walton will find the best of trout fishing in the neighboring streams, ponds, and lakes, and declare with Isaak, that
angling "has a calmness of spirit, and a world of other blessings
attending upon it," as he spends the long days of summer in
his favorite sport.
Rutland is distant from Troy 83 miles; Albany 93; New
York 234; Bellows Falls 53; Boston 167; Whitehall, N. Y.
25; Saratoga Springs 63; Lake George 60 miles. On the
north is Burlington, 67 miles, and farther still Montreal, 167
miles.  Fares are as follows: from Burlington, $2.00; Montreal, $4.50; Troy, $2.50; Albany, $2.60; New York, by
Railroad, $5.50;  by Steamboat, $3.50; Whitehall, $0.75;
Saratoga, $2.24; Bellows Falls, $1.60; Boston, $4.60.
On leaving Rutland, should the tourist prefer to ride across
the country by carriage, sending his baggage by rail, he can
easily procure horses, and proceed to WHITE RIVER JUNCTION,
through a most delightful region of country. A daily stage
also runs between Rutland, Woodstock and White River. The
distance is nearly 40 miles, and can be travelled in a day, if
one chooses, though the attractions of the way might well cause
him to linger on the route.  The road passes through the
pleasant villages of MENDON, NORTH SHERBURNE and SHERBURNE, around the base of Mt. Killington, and through the
Green Mountain range, at this point descends along the Queechee River, through BRIDGEWATER into WOODSTOCK.   This
quiet and charming town is the county seat of Windsor County,
and contains a celebrated Medical College and an Arsenal belonging to the United States. It has a population of little more
than 3000.  Departing from WOODSTOCK, the road winds along,
by the Queechee, leaving, at a short distance on the right,
150 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
QUEECHEE  VILLAGE, which instantly recalls Miss  Warner's
pleasant book, of the same name, and perhaps written among
these scenes, and soon reaches its termination at WHITE RIvER
village in the town of HIARTFORD.
Should the choice fall upon travelling by rail, the tourist will
find the pleasantest scenery all along the Rutland Railroad.
The stations are at some distance from the villages, whose in.
habitants the road accommodates, with but one or two instances.
CLARENDON is a mile or more from the central part of the town,
which has a celebrated medicinal spring. CUTTINGSVILLE is in
the north-eastern part of WALLINGFORD. At MOUNT HOLLY, the
traveller will notice the deep cut through the solid rock, ex tending a considerable distance.  This is the sumrit of the
road, as it crosses the mountains. LUDLOW lies pleasantly on
a little stream, a branch of Black River, several hundred feet
below the Railroad, and presents a cheerful appearance, as one
looks down upon it from the lofty position of the track. It is a
manufacturing and agricultural town of some importance, containing about 2000 inhabitants, and has a bright, thrifty aspect.
PROCTOR'S and DUTTON'S are in CAVENDISH, a pleasant town.
GASSETTS' accommodates the small village of BALTIMORE; BARTON'S the town of SPRINGFIELD; CHESTER, and ROCKINGHAIiM,
the towns of the same name, and the trains arrive at BELLOWS
FALLIS, in 21 hours from RUTLAND.
BELLOWS FALLS, by this route, is distant from New York
287 miles. Fares by this route from New York, by rail, $7.00;
by boat to Albany, $5.00.
From this point he continues up the Valley of the Connecticut to White River, and thence by Littleton to Franconia as on
the 114th and following pages.
Distances to Franconia are as follows: From Boston by way
of Fitchburg, Keene, and Bellows Falls, 224 miles; by way of
Lowell and Concord over the Northern Railroad 214 miles;
by way of Concord over the Boston, Concord and Montreal
151 
WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
Railroad to Wells River, 195 miles; to Plymouth, thence by
stage, 148 miles; from New York by way of Troy and Rutland, 400 miles; by way of Hartford, Springfield, and Bellows
Falls, 345 miles. Fares from Boston, either route, $7.00, by
stage, $6.25; from New York by boat to Albany, rail to Rutland, &c., $9.50; by rail to Albany, &c., $11.50; by way of
Hartford, &c., $10.50. Time from Boston, by Littleton, 13
hours, by Plymouth and stage 10. Time from New York, including stoppages at Rutland and Bellows Falls, 37 hours.
We have completed the description of the routes to the mountains as well as the description of the mountains themselves.
We have seen that all the various routes are condensed, in
reality, to three, as we approach the mountain region; one
leaves us at Gorham, on the eastern side; the second at White
Mountain Notch; and the third at Franconia. Whichever one
.nay be chosen, we would urge that the whole range, from
Franconia to the " Glen," be visited if possible. In no other
way can a complete idea of all the beauty and loveliness of this
"Switzerland of America"  be gained.  It is well, also, to go
by one, and return by another route. Tickets to and through
the region should not be purchased at a distance, as circumstances may render it desirable to vary from a plan first laid
down. Travellers coming from the Canadas, either by Burlington, or by the Grand Trunk Railway, should especially
avoid purchasing through tickets with privilege of visiting the
mountains on their journey. To use these tickets, travellers
are compelled to leave the mountains at the place where they
first approached, and must thus, frequently, needlessly retrace
their steps.
152 
_I_ =: - -
Situated on the promontory of Nahant, in Massa                chusetts Bay,
A Quiet and Delightful Summer Resort,
Combining the rare luxury of a constant ocean
breeze, with the best facilities for
BATHING AND SAILING,
While the wild freaks of Nature displayed-in its
romantic surroundings, please and interest both
the lover of novelty and geology.
No tourist should leave New England without
visiting this charming Sea Side retreat.
N. B.-Steamboat and Railroad communication
with Boston daily. 
CONCORD, N.H.
DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE STATE HOUSE,
DUMAS & NORTON,
Passengers carried to and from the Cars free of O(Iarge.
I A t IT I i St T IMASS
SCHOOL ST., BOSTON, MASS.
NEST ON T. [EI        LLURO'F,.   -LA
H. D. PARMER,? 
JOHK~ F. MILL, ~ 
WLLAtA I'  HOTI lar
~~~~~I Ad Ah. II~ f
This House is so located as to offer superior inducements to
the Travelling Public, as a
"Shady Retreat from the Heat of Summer!"
Connected with this Establishment is a LIVERY STABLE,
and Fishing and other parties visiting the
LI E:AD VIaINITY,
WILL BE FURNISHED WITH THE BEST OF
HORSES AND CARRIAGES AND EQUIPMENTS.
Bowling Alleys, Swings, &c., attached to the House.
A. L. MORRISON, Landlord.
GILFORD, (Laconia Station.)
WATCHES & J[W[[RY
!-Whitford & Drew
~= —-                  SUCCESSORS TO CARTER & WHITrORD,
DEALERS IN
Watches, Clocks, Rich Jewelry, Silver Ware,
PERSONAL ATTENTION will be given to Watch Repairing, and all work will be warranted to give perfect satisfaction.
[     All kinds of Jewelry repaired in the best manner.  We have a
large stock of Rich Jewelry, and feel confident that we can suit all customers, with High or Low Priced Goods. We have a good assortment
of FANS constantly on hand. together with all the goods usually kept
in a Jewelry Store. Also, Agents for Grover & Baker's Celebrated
FAMILY SEWING MACHINES,
NO. 184, MAIN ST., EAGLE HOTEL BLOCK,
Concord, IN.H.    WHITFO]D &k DIREW. 
UNITED STATES HOTEL,
BY SOLOMON MYRICK,
Junction of Federal, Elm, and Congress Streets,
PORTLAND, ME.
THE UNITED STATES HOTEL is on the most direct
route from Boston to the White Mountains, and is
located in one of the most beautiful cities in New
England.
It has been recently re-furnished and fitted up.
The proprietor will spare no pains to render the
stay of his patrons agreeable.
BRABROOK'S WHITE MOUNTAIN HOUSE,
Located near the Old Fabyan Hotel,
WHITE MOUNTAINS, N.H.
. _.
A good carriage road to within two miles of the
summit of Mt. Washington from this House.
Horses and Carriages to convey parties to all
points of interest around the Mountains.
Saddle Horses always at hand to convey parties
over Mt. Washington to the Glen House and Gorham.
Coaches arrive and leave daily for Littleton,
Franconia Mountains, Conway and Glen House.
G. T. BRABROOK, Proprietor.
. I        n*        6 
W'INNIPISAUKEE LAKE,
N[)RI'H CONWAY, WHII'E AND IiRANONIA
MOUNTAIN S.
Via Boston & Maine and Cochecho Railroads, Steamer
Dover, and Stages from Wolfboro' and Centre Harbor.
This is the only route that traverses the whole length of the Lake.
SUMMER ARRANGEMENT,
IJUNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.
CODA EMaNIqGt MOW:>NA, JTUWM 21
T EAVE the Depot of the Boston & Maine R. R., Boston at 7:30, A.
M., for Cochecho R. R., at Dover, connecting at Alton Bay, with
the splendid Steamer Dover, for Wolf boro' and Centre Harbor,
Dining on board the Boat. Thence by Stages through to Conway same
evening.  Also connect with P. M. trains for Plymouth and Franconia.
An Accommodation Train will leave Dover daily at 1 o'clock, P M.,
taking travel from the East, and from the line of the Eastern R. R,
connecting at Alton Bay with Steamer Dover, for Wolfboro' and Centre Harbor same evening, and on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday for
Meredith.
Leave Boston at 3 o'clock, P. M., for Dover, Rochester, Farmington
and Alton Bay. Returning, the Steamer Dover will leave Meredith,
Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 5, A. M, Centre Harbor daily, at
6, A. M., and 1:15, P. M., Wolf borough, at 7:30, A. M., and 2:30, P. M.
for Cochecho R. R., connecting at Dover with B. & M. trains for Boston and Portland. Also with trains on the P.S. and P. & Eastern R. R.
Passengers from Salem and Danvers, and Lowell and Lawrence R. R., by taking the 8:30, A. M. train from Lawrence,
can visit Centre Harbor and return the same day. For change
of time, I     See Snow's Boston Pathfinder.   Also, Appleton
& Dinsmore's New York Railroad Guides.
GEO. W. KIMBALL, Supt. C. R. R. 
OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN.
PROFILE'HOU SE,
.WHITE MOUNTAINS,
BY THE
Flume and Franconia Hotel Comp'y.
IIIRAM BELL, MANAGER.
This House is beautifully situated in the Notch, within
a few rods of the " Old Man of the Mountain," "Echo
Lake," " Mount Cannon," and the " Crystal Cascades."
It commands a fine view of" Mount Lafayette," to whose
summit is a bridle ath.  This House has large and elegant rooms, and the furnishing throughout is arranged in
modern style. It is much the largest Hotel in the State.
and has become the favorite resort of accomplished tourists.  The scenery around is remarkably bold and romantic.
Post Office Address:
"PROFILE'HOUSE N. H." 
WHITE MOUNTAINS.
BY TIE
Flume and Franconia Hotel Comp'y.
Do Zo     D      H H9 
This House is located in the midst of the most attractive scenery of
F:. T C o     I N                    OT I C -  -
It is within one mile of the Flume,  Cascades  and   Basin;
one-half mile from the Pool; and five miles from the
OLD MIAN OF THE MOUNTAIN.
Pemmigewasset Mountain, immediately in the rear of the
Hotel, can be easily ascended by ladies.  It makes a delightful forenoon
ramble. The view down the Pemmigewasset valley from its summit, is
GRAND AND BEAUTIFUL.
lit. Lafayette  is only three miles distant.  A  path leads to its
summit. The view from its highest elevation, only a few hundred feet
below Mt. WASHINGTON, has been thought by many to exceed that
of its rival.
are always in readiness to convey visitors to these different objects of
interest. The location of this House presents unrivalled attractions for
families wishing to tarry at the mountains.
Guests of the Hotel will receive every attention from the Manager,
to render their residence pleasant and agreeable.
POST OFFICE ADDRESS,
FLUYME, GRAFTON Co., N. H.
r-. I I - -, 
.              I. 
LITTLETON, N. H.
Board from 4 Dollars to 7 Dollars per Week.
Passengers conveyed to and from the Depotfree of charge.
Horses and Carriages always in readiness for
the accommodation of travellers.
I STANC E S.
24 Miles,
12  i;
17 c                  1
Lancaster,          20   "
St. Johnsbury, Vt.   18   "
"Should old acquaintance be forgot,
And never brought to mind,
Should old acquaintance be forgot,
And days of Auld Lang Syne."
The subscriber respectfully calls the attention
of the TRAVELLING PUBLIC, to-the above card, and
assure to all who may favor him with their patronage, good accommodations and the best of care; and
doubly assures them that the system of "bleeding"
is never a part of his practice.
WILLIAM COBLEIGH.
ww   7
Q-%, ! I Lo 9
Crawford House,
Profile cc
Flume cc
Fare
cc
C4
cc
C4
$2.00.
1.00.
i.5o.
1.25.
1.00. 
CIRAW OR I H0 tJ
WHITE MOUNTAINS.
BY J. L. GIBB.
This House is situated at the Notch of the White Mountains, and is
pleasantly located for pleasure seekers. It contains some two hundred
sleeping apartments, with
You will find at this house good fare-the tables being always loaded
with the delicacies of the season-and good and attentive waiters; in
fact you will find this a
MODIE)L IHO0SE.
PONIES may be secured rhere for the ascent of Mt. Washington,
with Careful and Gentlemanly Guides to accompany you.
Be sure and Book your Name
For a Pony to the Summit as soon as you arrive, as oftentimes the
Ponies are engaged several days in advance.
The Price of Board at this House is $2.50 per day.
e No pains will be spared to render the stay of visitors
pleasant and agreeable.
tIAtU-gt MAIIt b IpAal@llo 
EDSON C. EASTMAN,
160 Main St., Concord, N. H.
PLAIN WORDS TO YOUNG MEN,
BY REV. AUGUSTUS WOODBURY,
Of Providence, R. I.
SANBORN'S SCHOOL MOTTOS.
i THE WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE.
School, Classical and Miscellaneous Books supplied to Country Dealers at lowest rates.
E. C. E. is also Agent for the State of New
Hampshire for the
New American Cyclopmdia,
BENTON'S ABRIDGEMENT OF THE DEBATES IN
CONGRESS,
Burton's Cyclopedia of Wit and Humor,
and all other Subscription Books published by
D. APPLETON & CO.
Orders by Mail or Erpress ppunctually attended to.
'R 15 trt  00 5t teria itotr 
Worcester     Nashua
RAIL i 0 ROAD.
Passenger Trains Run as Follows:
Leave Worcester, at 6:20, and 11:15, A, M., and
4:30, P. M.
Leave Nashua, at 7:00, A. m., 12:00 M., and 5:15
P. M.
LL  these trains connect at Nashua  with trains to and from
Concord, and at Groton Junction and Worcester with the
trains to and from Fitchburg, Boston, Lowell, Providence,
Norwich, New York, Springfield, Albany, &c.
THE SPLENDID STEAMERS
COMMONWEALTH
-AND
Which leave New York every afternoon, except Sunday, at 5
P. M., from foot of Court]andt Street, connect with first train
from Worcester and last train from Nashua.
The first and second trains from Nashua, and last train from
Worcester, also connect with Exp)ress Trains to and from
New York, via Springfield.
NO CHANGE OF CAIRS
'Becteeu'Worcester and  Slew  York.
I   Passengers for New York via Norwich, can secure Berths
or State Rooms on board the train after leaving Nashua.
G. W. BENTLEY, Supt.
WORCESTER, MAY 24, 1858. 
Dntorb tant.e5I/ &a  reti
Qassen~T-rra~ius -will -rueas follows:.
Leave Boston, from the Boston & Maine, or Boston
& Lowell Depots, at 7:30, A. M., 12:00, M., and
5:00, P. M.
Leave Lowell or Lawrence, at 8:30, A. M., 1:00
and 6:00, P. M.
Leave Nashua, at 9:05, A. M., 1:35, and 6:35, P. M.
Leave Manchester, at 9:45, A. M., 2:00, and 7:00,
P.M.,
Connecting at Concord with trains of the Boston, Concord
and Montreal, and Northern and Passumpsic Railroads,
making the shortest, quickest and pleasantest route to the
No Change of Cars or Baggage between Concord & Littleton.
Trains leave Concord for Boston, Lowell, Lawrence,
&c., at 5:30 and 10:15, A. M:, and 4:00, P. M., or on
the arrival of trains from the above named roads, making
close connection at Nashua with trains of the Worcester
& Nashua Railroad, for New York, Springfield, and the
West. The 4:00, P. M. train is Expressed through to
Norwich, connecting with Steamers COMMONWEALTIH
and CONNECTICUT for New York.
J. A. GILMOREg Supt.
CONcORD, MAY 25, 1858.
R AILR OAD.
. --- -
WHITE AND FRAHCOHBAr MOtlT& IIInS. 
WILLOUGHBY & MAGOG LAKES,
Via the Northern (N. H.) Railroad.
ASSENGER Trains leave Concord, on arrival of thains from Bos ton, Worcester, &c., for Wells River, Littleton, St. Jhnsbury, Barton, Burlington, Rouse's Point, Mo(ntreal, Ogdensburg, &c., at 10:35, A.
M., and at 3:00, P. M., for Bristol, White River Junction, Northfield,
Vt, &c.
Trains leave White River Junction, at 7:00. A. M., And 1:25, P. M,
or on arrival of trains- from the Vermont Central and Passumpsic
Roads, connecting with trains leaving Littleton after the arrival of
Stages from he White and Frandonia yountains, for Boston, Portsmouth, Lawrence, Lowell, Worcester; Providence, Newport, New York,
&C.
VISITORS. TO'THE WHITE MOUNTAINS-:AND
From Boston, New York, and the South; via of Portsmouth, Lawrence, Lowell, Nashua, Worcester, Norwich Providence, Concord, -....
Northern, Passumpsic and White Mountain Railroads to Littleto',
(which is about twelve miles from the Franconia Notch, and twentyr 
miles from the White Mountain House, and much the nearestAoint{'o
the Notch of the Franconia and the White Mountains reached by Cars)
will find this a pleasant route, through the Valley,9 the MerriNack
and Connecticut Rivers, by Dartmouth College, Noch Universit 
the Sulphur Springs of Newbury, Vt., and as quick and cheap as any 
othert roulte
NUMROUS STAGES   -
Connect with the Roads, and leave Bristol for New Hampton,
Hebron,  Groton,  N.  H.; Barton, Vt., for Willoughby an.
Miagog Lakes, Stanstead, island Pond, and from various Stations on the Passumpsie Road  to the principal towns,ia the
northern part of New Hampshire, and Vermont,ed  Canada
East.
WHIT'E Arid FfiAHCOHA MOUNT.AiHS!'
J