FROM
CAPE COD
TO
DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
BY
J. MILTON MACKIE,
AUTHOR OF Ad COSAS DE  ESPANA," ETC.
"Toward the Sun I"
Old Motto.
NEW YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM, 441 BROADWAY.
1864.
< 8 v W.
.
*.
Is v 
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by
G. P. PUTNAMI,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.
, I
*l I 
JOHN F. TROW,
PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER,
50 Greene Street. 
HESE  sketches of travel were written before
the breaking out of the present rebellion
in the Southern States; but as, on the occurrence
of this event, letters very properly yielded to
arms, they were withheld from publication.
XNow, however, when the public mind is turning to books for momentary relief front the longdrawn story of battles and campaigns, it may not
be ill-timed to give to the press an account of
a pleasure journey, made, in part, through the
Southern States; and a portion of which may
serve as a memento of the happy days —Inot soon
to return, I fear-when there existed between the
inhabitants of the Northern and Southern sections of the country a free interchange of services and hospitalities.
It is, indeed, the great business of the nation,
0
PRE FA CE.
6
i 
PREFA CE.
at the present crisis, to bring back to the Union
by force of arms its erring, misguided members;
but, while we of the North are intent on subduiig them, there is a satisfaction in showing that
we neither hate nor despise them; and I am
happy to contribute my humble mite in proof
that we cherish pleasant reminiscences of our
former friendship, and shall be ready, on the restoration of peace, to give to the returning States
every right and privilege consistent with the
safety, dignity, and welfare of the united republic.
GREAT BARRINGTON, MASS., April, 1864.
4
t 
C O  TEN TS.
CHAP.
I.-THE ST       ART...................................
II.-WASHINGTON.................................
III.-THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS.........................
IV.-FIvE UNPROTECTED LADIES......................
V.-THE WARM SPRINGS...........................
VI.-THE WHITE SULPHUR..........................
VII.-THROUGH VIRGINIA AND CAROLINA................
VIII.-CHARLESTON..................................
IX.-SAVANNAH...................................
X.-A GEORGIA RAILWAY..........................
XI.-DOWN THE ALABAMA...........................
XII.-fMOBILE......................................
XIII.-THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI........................
XIV.-NTEW ORLEANS................................
XV.-LAKE PONTCHARTRAIN..........................1
XVI.-UP THE MISSISSIPPI............................
XVII.-A SUGAR PLANTATION..........................
XVIII.-A WESTERN HOTEL.............................
XIX.-FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA.................
XX.-A HAVANA HOTEL.............................
, 0
PAGE
7
10
20
83
42
61
86
93
110
123
131
138
152
156
169
172
179
189
209
219 
CONTENTS.
CHAP.
XXI.-MY FIRST VOLANTE..........................
XXII.-DOLCE FAR NIENTE..........................
XXIII.-THE PASEO TACON...........................
XXIV.-CHURCH AND OPERA.........................
XXV.-ORANGES AND THE QUAYS.....................
XXVI.-THE CERRO..................................
XXVII. —EXCURSIONS...............................
XXVIII.-A CUBAN STEAMER.........................
XXIX.-FIGHTING COCKS............................
XXX.-A MATANZAS FONDA.........................
XXXI.-THE CUMBRE...............................
XXXII.-A CUBAN RAILWAY..........................
XXXIII.-NASSAU-A WINTER NEWPORT................
XXXIV.-SANTA CRUZ AND ITS FREEDMEN................
XXXV.-ST. THOMAS................................
XXXVI.-THE BERMUDAS..............................
XXXVII.-CAPE COD..................................
6
PAGE
232
237
247
253
260
267
272
283
292
297
303
311
318
349
376
385
396 
C-HAPTER I.
The Start.
W         E will go a little nearer to the sun," said
I to the gentle one by my side, the morning after marriage-and, at the same time, looking
vacantly enough at a huge porcelain stove, across the
room, an heirloom of a once-noted Puritan.
"For the stove," I went on soliloquizing, " the
stove is an invention the mother of which-not a
doubt of it-was necessity. Nor is your furnace
any other  contrivance  than a poor  imitation of
that great subterranean fire we do not much like to
think of. And, finally, to live by hickory through
this Northern winter, would realize, at least, as great
an impossibility as a small forest brought to Dunsinane. My dear,'tis better we set off toward the
sun."
"By the next train?" was her soft, consenting
reply. 
8         TO DIXIE AND  TIlE TROPICS.
"By the doves, rather, at once. Cupid, put in
the doves!"
"And, boy," said I —seeing that everything had
been nicely packed in, and we two happy mortals
were "all aboard "-" boy, swing your torch!"
Had the doves been horses, how their hoofs
would have resounded as they went down the frozen,
icy road! Every hair in my head, and buffalo, bristled with electricity. Every point of everything that
had a point was converted, for the time being, into a
small lightning rod. Crack went the whip; and, indeed, everything cracked. The ice cracked, till it
groaned; the snow, till it crackled.  The white hills
looked as though they could be broken into pieces
as easily as pipetails. All nature snapped, and was
almost snappish - ourselves excepted, because we
were going toward the sun, you see. Old Boreas,
too, I will take out of that category, who was, indeed, in his element, and rode gayly on the ends of
the horsetails-that is to say, on the wings of the
doves. Young Jack Frost, also, seated only too
firmly astride my mustache, with arms akimbo, was
as merry as ever was Puck, or Santa Claus. It was,
truly, the very morning of all the winter when the
polar bear-if he ever did such a thing-would be
sure to put.his-paws in his mouth, to keep them from
freezing. And if Samson, I could but say to my 
THE  START.
wife, had only selected this day for setting firebrands
to the tails of the foxes, it would have been, indeed,
a comfort to them, and just the thing they wanted.
We reached New York, at last, in safety-thanks
to the prairie buffalo for the use of his skin. But
during the last half hour of the drive, I remember
trying to say, in a hoarse whisper, to my companion:
"M1y  dear, I am  the happiest  man  this side
heaven; only, if you have ally intention, during the
covertuLre, to box my ears' for me, I wish you would
do it now. The tingling might not be so bad as the
frost-bite."
The reply was a smile from out the furs, as radiant and as soft as the aurora which flashes athwart
the gloom of night within the circle of the pole.
And, ere it had entirely faded, we descended at the
-House.
l'
9 
CHA P T.EP  II.
Wasshington.
RRIVED at Washington, the Mecca of our
politicians, their wives, and daughters, I was
glad to find a half-new hotel; though not surprised to
observe that its timbers shook a little under my feet,
as I ascended to the story next to heaven. Crowds
of fine ladies and gentlemen were encountered on
the stairway, together with a fellow having a bag
and long rope in his hand, apparently going up to
hang and bag somebody.
The stairway of the hotel-if I may stop on it
long enough to add one observation more-was, as I
afterward remarked, rather a favorite place with the
young ladies from certain sections of the country,
for receiving the attentions of their admirers; probably on account of its being a little less exposed to
the glare of the gaslights than were the parlors.
At any rate, I noticed a young belle from Kentucky, 
WASHINGTON.
and one that rang as loud as any other in the house,
receiving the homage of an M. C., while sitting, herself, in all her graces and paraphernalia, on the steps.
The new chambers had a neat look; yet no wardrobe or closet was anywhere visible, nor even so
much as a peg to hang a hat on. There was a marble wash basin; but the water was of the color of
snuff. Silver-plated bell knobs there were, though
nobody came at the ringing. Hot water seemed to
be an impossibility; and, indeed, it was self-evident
that I was here to be monarch of all I surveyed, and
of nothing more.  However, if one attain to gentility in Washington, he ought to be willing to dispense with a little comfort.
After a hasty survey of the premises, and a no
less hasty toilet-for it was late in the evening-I
descended to the supper room, where I found a large
company of well-dressed gentlemen and ladies, but a
set of waiters looking, at the end of their day's
work, not much cleaner than their table covers. One
of them, after some little delay, was engaged to
bring me stewed oysters. He brought me two tablespoonfuls. I called twice for the salt, and as many
times for the pepper; though the salt, when I got it,
had begun to lose its savor, and the pepper had been
made from buckwheat hulls. And no sooner was
any dish or castor placed before inme, than it was ab
11 
12      TO DIXIE AND TIIE TROPICS.
stracted by some prowling, pilfering waiter. While
I was turning my head, it was gone. However, in
justice to the menials, I hasten to add, that the next
day, after having received their fees, they were very
attentive; so much so that, at breakfast, one of them
politely asked if he should open my boiled egg for
me. Had I given him another dollar, he would have
offered, no doubt, to feed me with a spoon.
The greater part of the guests appeared to be
worthy, respectable people, who had come up from
the provincial towns where they had been living in
quiet all their days, and were now committing, in a
visit to the capital, their first great indiscretion.
Where I starved, they supped well; and altogether
better than they "hopped" afterward.  For, while
some of the waltzing was good enough, I could but
observe that only a few of the ladies knew how to
walk, and fewer of the gentlemen how to stand still.
It was as if a person should undertake to read before having learned his letters.
Soon satisfied with both seeing and hearing, I
retired from the scene to enjoy a good night's rest;
but, at the end of a couple of hours or more, I was
waked by a blundering porter, who, when asked
what he wanted, replied:
"Are you going by the early train, sir?"
"No, you scoundrel!" 
WASHINGTO N.
"All right, sir," continued the fellow, in a tone
of voice equally complacent and unfeeling.
"All wrong!" I muttered to myself, as, turning
on my side, I endeavored to go to sleep again.
The next morning, I observed that the unsocial
French custom of helping out the breakfast with
newspapers instead of chitchat, had become fully
established here. The members of Congress were
intently reading the reports of their speeches; the
ladies were looking through the penny papers to see
what the letter writers said of the belles of Washington; while opposite me sat a couple of newly
wedded lovers solacing themselves each with a copy
of the New York Herald.  But there were some exceptions to the prevailing silence, not to say moroseness, of the company at table; and one of the prettiest young ladies in the house talked loud enough to
disturb all readers not gifted with considerable powers of abstraction. This high-toned style of conversation is, indeed, common enough in mixed company,
the habit being unconsciously formed by many even
of our handsomest and most agreeable ladies, in consequence, it may be, of their being obliged every
night to elevate their voices high enough to be heard
in crowded balls and parties. Surrounded by a circle
of admirers two or three deep, the young miss gives
tongue with all her might, in order that she may be
13 
14      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
heard by the entire crowd; and if she be overheard,
also, by some of her rivals, so much the better. The
noise is supposed to give her consequence. Indeed,
the merit of a low voice in woman would seem to be
in danger of being lost sight of in a society where,
the more beautiful the belle, the louder her scream.
At this rate, our young ladies will soon have to go to
parties with small speaking-trumpets in their pockets.
At dinner, it was itself an entertainment to see
in what fashion some of our Congressmen, the great
politicans, and stump orators of the country, dine.
The first thing done by a certain class of the men
sent up to Washington to represent their constituents, and do as they would do themselves, is, after
taking seats at table, to thrust their hands into the
adjacent dishes of nuts, and lay down a handful of
them by the side of their plates. In altogether a
greater hurry to get at the end of the dinner than
they usually are to arrive at that of their speeches,
these lawmakers skip either soup or fish, or both,
and plunge at once into the medias res, the thick of
the eating. Even there, however, they make short
work of it. Befbre a quiet man has tasted his soup,
and gradually worked his way through a small plate
of fish, these energetic feeders are calling loudly for
almonds and raisins. But the dessert once reached,
all their hurry seemed to be over: They ate pie and 
WASHING TOY.
pecan nuts by the half hour, and so leisurely, that
one who had gone deliberately through all the
courses, came out neck and neck with them at the
coffee. Yet were they not quite satisfied; but many
of the ladies left the table with either an apple or an
orange in hand, while some of the gentlemen's pockets were half filled with various gimcracks. These
sweets taken from the table are generally supposed
to go to the small children, the babes in the nursery.
They must fare well-the little fellows! And, indeed, I remember once hearing of a lady who said
she always stopped at a certain hotel in New York,
because there were so many nice things on the table
for the dessert, that she was able to send home every
week such a love of a package to the children.
On the -whole, the crowd of guests appeared to
be well entertained; and evidently thought it a fine
thing to visit Washington at the height of the season, and be lodged in this great caravansary. To be
sure, a person of quiet habits might be tempted to
say that the hotel seemed to him to be full of boots,
and gentlemen in them, who appeared to estimate the
degree of their personal consideration by that of the
noise made by their heels. But by far the greater
number of persons were evidently living on the excitement of being in a crowd, and found the confusion and hurly-burly as entertaining'as it is at the
15 
16        TO )DIXIE AN) THE  TROPICS.
menagerie when the lion roars, the donkey brays, the
horse laughs, the elephant sneezes, and the monkey
hangs by the tail, all at the same time. What matters it if they have a room at the top of the house,
containing one window and a cracked looking-glass,
a table on three legs, and a rocking chair tied up
with red tape and twine ends-what of it, so long as
they sit down to dinner every day in company with
a thousand guests, all Congressmen, and Congressmen's wives and daughters;  and if, after dinner,
they all promenade together and jostle each other in
two small parlors, and a hall fifteen feet by forty?
Some few of the visitors, however, moved about the
house with the look of persons who had seen too
much of a good thing, and who would be happier
than ever in their lives before, when once more returned to the quiet of their comfortable though
unpretending homes.
Whoever goes to Washington without seeing the
President of the United States, runs the risk of being
thought next to nobody. Accordingly, the White
House being thrown open for the reception of visitors the day after my arrival, I did not fail to make
my appearance there. It was a beautiful April morning dropped down into the early part of February,
as I strolled through the grounds, and up the steps
of the far-famed Presidential mansion; being in a 
WASHINGTOY.
mood to be pleased with everything, and especially
with the great father of the universal Yankee nation.
But what is this I see before me at the threshold? Is it a spittoon? By my troth, an enormous
one!  A  perfect monster in capacity, suggestive of
quids of the very largest size, and a great many of
them. A gentle hint, this, no doubt, to the stranger
just arrived from Texas, or the Upper Mississippi,
that he will please unpack his cheek before coming
into the presence of democratic Majesty.
But here are more spittoons in the anteroom! It
would seem, then, that it is not expected that the
American people, on coming to pay their respects to
their chief upper servant, should for a moment relinquish their right to chew tobacco whenever and
wherever it may please them; and they are accordingly provided with conveniences for expectoration
within five-and-forty feet of the foot of the throne.
This is as it should be-and strongly democratic. If
there be anything wrong about it, it is, perhaps, that
there are not vessels of this kind enough to supply
the demand for them; and I would most respectfully suggest that the principal avenue to the White
House should be lined with rows of them, as the
approaches to European palaces are set out with rare
plants and flowers.
17 
18        TO DIXIE AND TIIE TROPICS.
I saw the spittoons; but, as ill luck would have
it, not the President. He sent word to the sovereign
people, and their wives, who had called on him that
morning, that he was too busy to see them. The
guests, therefore, were obliged to entertain themselves as best they could with inspecting the Presidential parlors and upholstery. This they did pretty
thoroughly. They admired the ceilings, the chandeliers, the chairs, the tables, the curtains; and gazed
at the carpets, as Moloch at the golden pavement of
heaven. Some of the ladies lingered before the mirrors, taking that opportunity to survey their toilettes;
some of the gentlemen eyed the mahogany, and the
sideboards; and one demagogue I observed inquisitively looking up chimney.
After the survey of the premises, it remained
only for the company to look at each other. This,
also, was done. Everybody stared at everybody;
and, finally, all either went home, or looked into the
grounds to see the Presidential flock of fat turkeys.
Next to the great Southern belle, a dashing young
widow in ermine and point lace, and in possession, as
it was whispered about, of an annual income of two
hundred bales of cotton, there was one cock turkey
which made the handsomest and proudest display of
the morning. In fact, I was better pleased with his
showing off, which was done in the very best style 
WASHINGTO.
of turkeys, than with the widow's.  His strut was
regal; and the way in which he made himself big
with feathers, quite took the hoop out of all the
crinolines, causing them to look scarcely bigger than
so many folded umbrellas. Nor did I fail to notice
the propriety, since the spread eagle has possession
of the national escutcheon, of maintaining in the
grounds of the chief magistrate of the country this
brother bird, with distended wings and tail, and
throat red with gobbling.
19 
CHAAPTER III.
The Viryinia Springs.
AFTER having crossed the mountains of Vir       ginia by rail, the old-fashioned stage coach
took me up a short distance firom the Warm Springs;
and, a few hours afterward, a smart crack of the
whip under the flank of the off leader brought the
carriage handsomely round to the door of the hotel.
As I alighted, no sooner had my feet touched the
ground, than I was recognized by one of the black
boys, who had waited on me, two summers before,
at the White Sulphur; and was at once claimed by
him as "his gentle'um." The fellow was, indeed, in
a perfect ecstasy over the arrival of "his gentle'umn
firom York;" while I, seeing no difference in his
wool from that of a dozen other negroes standing by,
had not the slightest recollection of ever having enjoyed the pleasure of his acquaintance, and looked
upon him simply as a darkey suddenly gone mad. 
I
TEE VIRGINIA SPRING-S.
"Bery glad to see massa once more in de mount'ns," said he, rubbing his hands briskly, and grinning from ear to ear.  "Do massa no remember Custopol ob de White Sulphur, two summers gone
back?"
I looked again, and saw that it was, indeed, Custy.
Could any other black boy in Virginia be so black as
he? His nose was scarcely less flat than the pancakes he used to bring me at breakfast. His mouth
was full half an inch in advance of it, and so large
that, when he kissed any of the yellow girls, in going
through the reel, the report was like that of a big
popgun. His teeth were grinders all round; and,
with his jawbone, a bold man could cut down as large
a host of enemies as he could with that of an ass.
But when it came to comparing foreheads, Custy
was lacking there. In his brows there was no presence. The wool grew down over them; and, cut
ever so close, it would have sufficed to throw them
into the shade, were they not already blacker than
any shadow.   Custy's phrenological developments
were to be sought for elsewhere-even to his heels.
Moreover, though his shoulders were broad, his back
was hollow, and his waist a mere finger bowl. So
that when, on a Sunday, Custy drew his bands tight,
and cocked his hat a little on one side of his headin his bright yellow waistcoat, tall red cravat, and a
21 
22      TO -DIXIE A:V-D THE TR OPICS.
gentleman's cast-off blue coat, set off with brass buttons, and cut with a broad roll in the collar-he was
as jaunty a gallant as ever "picked" a banjo.
I went directly in to breakfast, being prepared
for it by a drive outside the coach since daylight, and
told Custopol to bring along his hoecakes.
" Nice ven'son steak, massa," said Custy.
"Very well," I replied; " hoecakes and venison
steak."
" Butter made in de house, massa!"
"Exactly-hoecakes, and venison steak, and fresh
butter."
"Hot milk?"
"No; give me the cold cream. No such cream
as this in York, Custy!"
"Me believe dat. People must come back to Old
Virginny for to see de right yaller milk."
"And the yellow girls, too, Custy?"
"IHe! he! he! ha! ha! ha!" replied my colored
Adonis, and wiped the water out of his mouth on the
edge of his apron.
But when Custopol laughed, I made it a rule to
stop the conversation. His grinning was all very
fine, and brought out his ivory, and the white of his
eyes, to admiration; but when it came to laughing,
I was always afraid lest he might so far forget himself as to blow his steam whistle, which would certainly bring down the whole house about my ears 
THE VJR GINIA SPRINGS.
Venison steaks twice a day, and my black boy
perpetually on the grin to see me eat them! Indeed, he would have been delighted to serve them
as many times more; while his cakes, morning and
evening, were as hot as the hearth from which they
came. Bread, alone, answers a poor purpose; but
on corn cakes, venison, and mountain air-with a
drop of the dew, now and then-a man, whose conscience is easy, will as surely thrive as cows on clover.  From the very first day of this regimen his ribs
feel heavier; while on the piazza stand the scales, for
the purpose of enabling him daily to note the happy
progress he is making toward one hundred stone.
The thin dyspeptic, on arriving in these mountains,
no longer weighs his food, but himself; and, after
every meal, kicks the beam one notch higher. If,
then, at night, he will also give a boy a quarter to
"pick" the banjo under his window, and sing "Going
over Jordan," and "Jim crack Corn," he will end his
day with perfect stomachic satisfaction, falling sound
asleep in the very act of ha-ha-ing, and dreaming of
nothing short of a heaven carved in ebony.
By the way, this fondness for being weighed is
universal at these Springs; at each one of which there
is a pair of balances standing not far from the front
door of the hotel, and offering their convenience to
the guests. Accordingly, every mian and woman
i
23 
24      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
wishes to know how many pounds he, or she, has
gained in the last twenty-four hours.  Nine persons
out of ten, here, can tell you their exact weight.
Especially is it pleasing to see the eagerness of young
mothers to know how fast their babies are growing;
but I scarcely ever saw one who was strictly impartial at the trial. They were always disposed to give
the little fellow credit for a half pound, or so, more
than he was entitled to; would daily crowd up the
beam; and sometimes make such announcements
that, let the baby be ever so fat, one could not refrain from believing he had, besides, a brick in his
cap. Some infants, on the other hand, would make
no impression whatever upon the scales, and would
hlave to be taken out until they were a week older;
or, at least, had eaten their dinner. One thin, nervous gentleman, also, with a touch of the dyspepsia,
could not be induced by any amount of persuasion
to get into the scales, being apparently afraid to
know how light he was. Ladies of a certain age,
too, were rather shy of them. Once I saw a matron
turned of forty, who, in a heedless moment, had ventured to take her seat under the beam, jump out of
it, on the announcement of the number one hundired
and ninety-nine, as if she had been shot. But some
old gents, on the other hand, who used to sit about
in easy, wide-bottomed chairs, were evidently well 
7THE VIRGINIA SP-RINGS.
pleased at showing off the'effect of their threescore
years of good living-generally taking the opportunity of giving the name of the county in which they
had been " raised," and mentioning the weight of'
their fathers before them.
Still-to return to my muttons-it must be confessed that, since the arrival of the French cook in
these hills, there is a notable falling off in the pleasures of the table. Sambo was a better spit-turner.
An outcast from the Palais Royal, where he served
dinners at two francs per head, the artiste, who
arrives in the central regions of Virginia, brings
with him only the knowledge of a few tricks for
cheapening dishes. His grand invention is to put all
meats into the pot. His roast beef is first boiled,
and then toasted. So is his roast mutton. A thorough-going socialist at heart, he has even gone so far,
at some of the Springs, as to boil all his meats together in one cauldron; thereby reducing them all
to an equality.  The saddle of venison lies-alas! to
think of it-cheek by jowl with ham, and a side of
bacon. Beef must fraternize with veal, and exchange
juices with it.  Even the pig-little innocent!-is
put into water, and parboiled. Shade of Charles
Lamb! that he should no more be roasted!  But it
has come to this in the progress of civilization, and
the greedy water is allowed to suck out half the
2
25 
26      1'O DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
juices which made the Chinaman's fingers so savory,
when, by that happy accident, he pulled out the
roasted pig from the burning house by the tail, and
invented a dish, the memory of which, one would
suppose, the latest posterity would not willingly let
die.
I know the merits of the well-educated professor
of the French kitchen; but the vagabond, who has
found his way into the valleys of the Blue Ridge,
has nothing of the professor about him, save his
paper cap.  He is homesick-regrettant la patrie
into the bargain; and, I have not a doubts qualifies
his soups with his tears. Let no man taste them.
Certainly, he has either forgotten his French, or
never knew it. The other day, the landlord, proud
of the outlandish look of his list of dishes, and thinking, perhaps, to pay me a compliment, in intimating
that I was acquainted with the French language, said
to me:
"You can read this, I suppose, sir?"
"No," I was obliged to reply. " Really, I am
unable to do it."
The landlord, having shown me up to room No.
14, the appearance of which was satisfactory, said he
would send a boy to wait on me.  It proved not to
be Custopol, but a fellow about forty-five years of
age, though still a boy in Southern parlance, and des 
THE VIRGINIA SPRIANGS.
tined to remain such to the day of his death.  He
came with the official brush in hand, and, bowing,
asked:
"Will massa have his coat brushed?"
"You are to be my boy, then?" I inquired in re
turn.
" Yes.  And will massa have his coat brushed?"
"What is your name?"
"They call me Sully."
"Sully!" I exclaimed, taken suddenly with a fit
of abstraction at hearing a name which had not saluted my ears since the days when, a sophomore,
I was drilled in history by the college professor.
"Sully! You then were once a prime minister of
state! You were a duke! You were the favorite
of one of the most heroic, and the most amiable
kings of modern times! You were his ambassador
at the English court, in the days of the great Queen
Bess! And, Sully, you rogue, repeat to me some of
the fine things you whispered in the greedy ear of
Her Majesty!"
The Sully before me, who stood still in his shoes,
without moving a hair's breadth, nor scarcely so
much as winking, opened his mouth for a reply; but
all he could repeat was the question:
"Will massa have his coat brushed?"
By this time, of course, I had become convinced
27 
28       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
that it was no use trying to teach "dis nigger" history, or to persuade him that he had ever been anybody       else than the boy Sully, who was "raised" in
Norfolk, and belonged to a citizen there who kept an
oyster shop
"Oh! raking'mongst the oyster beds,
To me it was but play "
and who, when shellfish were out of season, hired out
his servant to wait, and brush at the Springs.
After getting this short narrative-and  it was
about all that the boy knew respecting his history-it
remained only to reply to his so-many-times-repeated
interrogatory:
"Yes, Sully; you may brush my coat."
Sully, accordingly, brushed my coat-a task he
continued to do daily. He brushed my shoes, also,
and performed the service of my room. When he
had no other work on hand, it was his duty, and his
pleasure, to look after me.  He brought me a match
to light my cigar, if, by chance, I wanted one. He
brought me my hat, my gloves, my stick. And,
finally, he stood over me, at table, with a peacock's
tail in his hand, to keep the flies off, when, as brushing was his favorite summer vocation, he sometimes
with the tip of his feathers also brushed my tea and
coffee. 
THE VIRGINIA SPRI-AGS.
As the song has it:
"When I was young, I had to wait
On massa's table, hand de plate;
I pass de bottle when he's dry,
And brush away de blue-tail fly."
But if Sully had few or no materials for the
biographer, to the observer of men and things he
presented a person of a size sufficient to awaken
attention, and justify description.  He was constructed on the principle of the curve. With nothing
angular about him, he was as round as an apple, and
everywhere came full circle. He was, by all odds,
the fat boy of the establishment.  Of course, he had
ilo waist, and was under the natural necessity of
wearing suspenders.  His skin was so full, that, but
for the perspiration which dropped from every pore
the moment he put himself in motion, it was plain
there would be a crack somewhere. He must have
been in the habit of frequently opening his oyster
and his mouth at the same point of time, otherwise
nature could never have attained to such fulness of
form, and so universally brought all her lines round
till they met. And then, what was gained in winter
was not lost in summer; because, he coming up:-t
the commencement of the warm season into the pure
air of the mountains, the fat of the bivalve, which
29 
30     1TO DIXIE AgD THE TROPICS.
had once settled on his ribs, remained there the year
round.
Sully had not the least particle of vanity in his
composition; at least, in studying him carefully for
a fortnight, I could see no sign of any. He, accord ingly, did not imitate white folks-was sui generis.
This utter lack of vanity showed itself not only in
his manners, but also in his dress.  His clothes were
evidently all originally made to fit his own person,
and were not the thrown-aside garments of a gentleman. They, consequently, were the farthest possible
removed from chic. There was no dash in the cravat, no fashion in the coat, and not so much as a
bright red, or yellow thread in his whole wardrobe.
All was either plain white, or black. Or, at least, if
there were any warmer tints, they were so subdued,
and ran so naturally into the two cold colors, that the
prevailing tone of modest dulness was never marred.
The boy's fancy seemed never to have risen higher
than the simplest black and white check. This he
always donned clean-in no sense could it be said
that he sported it-on a Sunday.
Sully's dress corresponded with his disposition,
which was not gay. I cannot conceive of his ever
having danced the "breakdown."   If he had ever
attempted it, it nmust have been when, on some great
festal occasion, he so far departed from his usual 
THE VIR G INIA SPR IN G S.
sobriety as to take a little whiskey. Nor could he
touch the banjo. I don't believe he had ever been
half a dozen times to a colored ball since he was a
small boy; nor, except on rare occasions, was he ever
seen looking in at the windows of the saloon in the
hotel upon waltz, or cotillon. If he could only go
to bed early, he wanted no other amusement, unless,
indeed, it were to get up late. He, however, could
doze tolerably well, even on his feet, and engaged in
his ordinary avocations.
I never saw Sully make a gesture but once, and
then it was entirely ill keeping. It was not a pointed
gesture. He did not lay his thumb against the end
of his nose, with little finger projecting, nor, with
extended index, count off his arguments on his digits.
Much less was there any violence indicated in the
motion; no doubling of the fist; no beating the
breast; no rapping of the knluckles on a table. But
Sully deliberately raised his hand, and deliberately
brought it down again, in both instances describing a
semicircle. The movement was as round as himself.
And the occasion on which Sully made this gesture was, when I asked him a question respecting his
wife.
J
" Sully," I inquired one day, "are you a married
boy?"
"Yes, massa;'tis now gone two years."
31 
32       TO DIXIE A_1-D THE  TROPICS.
"Picked out a young girl for your wife, Sully?"
"No; I took an old gal-a free woman-born do
same year dat was me."
"And how do you like it-the mniarried life?"
"Right well."
"But suppose you, and your wife should disagree?"
"Massa," said Sully-and it was then he made
his gesture-" we should quit!"
J 
OCAP TER IV.
Five Unprotected Ladies.
IVE ladies, unattended by a gentleman, arrived
at the Sweet Springs, ill the same coach as myself. They were apparently all of the same age, and
looked enough alike to be sisters. Two of them,
certainly, had formerly accepted of husbands; the
others, probably, not. Yet, being helpmates one of
the other, they got on safely, and everywhere had
their own way, spite of men, and fate.  Their very
number gave them force, and great advantages over
a single unprotected female.
On the road, they were, indeed, not a little anxious about their baggage, fearing lest it might be
cut off from the coach by robbers, while the driver
was thinking of something else; and whenever we
stopped, one of them, at least, generally managed to
get out, for the purpose of seeing that their trunks
rode comfortably. All their bandboxes were on the
top of the coach, excepting one of considerable size
2* 
34      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
containing caps, and another smaller one filled with
homeopathic medicines, both of which were carefully
carried in their laps. Whenever, therefore, the road
was a little rough-and it was by no means always
smooth-one eye was kept out of the window to see
if, by chance, some of the boxes might not be tossed
over the railing. The ladies, themselves, stood the
jolting pretty well, their thoughts being mostly fixed
on their valuables outside; and, indeed, the chief
pleasure experienced on their travels seemed to be
the satisfaction it gave them, at every stopping place,
to learn from personal observation, confirmed by the
testimony of the driver, that all their travelling
effects were safe. That both they themselves, and
all they had, should get unharmed to the end of their
journey, was surely a cause for the very greatest
satisfaction.
So it turned out. They were all delivered over
to the landlord of the inn which had been fixed upon,
months before, as the spot where they would pass the
summer, safe and sound, themselves, their trunks,
and their boxes-even to their umbrellas, parasols,
and sticks. But I mistake-they had no sticks.
Once, however, on the journey, they had been
pretty badly frightened. There was then running on
the road a line of coaches in opposition to that of
the mail; and, in consideration of a very consider 
UNPROTECTED LADIES.
able abatement in the price of passage, the ladies had
ventured to take seats in one of the former. But the
drivers sharing the spirit of rivalry between the proprietors, the Jehu of the "Lucy Dashwood"-in
which the ladies had taken passage-had, from the
start, made up his mind that he would take the snapper off the lash of the "old line" driver, before
reaching the end of his journey. Accordingly, he
managed to keep close behind his rival until they
came to a place where there was room enough for a
race. The main road itself, just there, was narrow,
and had some sharp turns in it, so that quick driving
over it required pretty steady rein, and horses well
in hand. But along its side ran a creek, the bed of
which also furnished a tlick to a driver who, at the
same time, was not a bad pilot. Therefore, on reaching this place, the hindmost whip determined that he
would either tip over, or get the lead. Seeing that
his opponent kept to the road which was dry, he
boldly dashed into the wet one.
"Good gracious!"  exclaimed the ladies, all at
once; and, but for being held fast, one or more of
them would certainly have jumped out into the
creek.  Meanwhile, splash down through the torrent
went coach and horses, making the water fly in at the
windows as if it had been a violent rain storm. The
ladies dropped both cap box and medicine chest, in
i
35 
36      TO DIXIE ALiD THE TROPICS.
order to clasp their hands in consternation.   But
before they had time to wring them, the horses, with
the lash around the ears of the leaders, sprang out
of the creek at a bound.  The small boulders in the
road where it left the water leaped out of it as if
they had been frogs; the good, stout vehicle shook
in every timber, but came out unbroken; the harness
held fast, and the horses, gaining once more the
smooth terra firma, rattled down the hill, with tails
in the wind, and their dull rivals far behind.
Immediately on being set down at the inn, the
five ladies took possession of the landlord, and carried him off with them, to look,at his rooms; and,
according to the account of the matter afterward
given to me, he did not get out of their hands with out some rather hard usage. They did not like his
accommodations. The rooms first offered them they
scarcely deigned to look at; but, after going over
the whole house, and holding a consultation upon
every vacant chamber in it, they finally came back to
those they had so disdainfully refused at first, but
which, by that time, had been taken by another
party. So they were obliged to go over the whole
ground a second time. One of the sisters wanted to
have a bed which no man had ever slept in! An other insisted on being settled in the new part of the
building, lest there should be animalcule in the walls 
I
i
UNPROTECTEI) LADI)IES.
of the old. In all the rooms they pulled up the bedclothes, and peered anxiously, but knowingly, into
the holes in the four posts. They demanded a rocking chair, with a cushion to it, in each one of their
chambers. And, finally, one thing was absolutely
indispensable-the curtains at the windows were an
insufficient protection; they must be reenforced by
shutters, made by the carpenter.
"But, ladies," replied the good-natured landlord,
"there is not a carpenter to be had in the mountains.
If you think the curtains insufficient, you must pin up
something."
"Indeed, we have nothing to pin up!" rejoined
they all. Finally, however, seeing there was no remedy, this suggestion met.with their approbation;
and, either with or without what they wanted, or
thought they wanted, the five ladies were, at last, all
settled in their chambers.
But it was not more than ten minutes after they
had taken possession of their apartments before one
of the ladies rang the landlord up again. Her chimney smoked.
"That can't be, madam," said the host, "for
there is no fire in it."
" So much the worse, if it smokes when there is
no fire! What, then, will it do, when, on a rainy
day, there are a couple of backlogs on, and I sit
down to warm my feet by the fire?"
37
i 
38        TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
"But, madam,  I don't perceive that it does
smoke."
"I do. I smell it. And when there are fires
built all about the house, I am sure that this chimney
will smoke violently. There are now several gentlemen with their cigars on the piazza, and their smoke
comes down through this fireplace. I smell it."
The landlord was a man of too much experience
to argue long against the testimony of one of the.
seven senses- particularly in the case of a lady
arrived at such years of discretion.  He therefore
quietly gave up his argument; the lady her chamber;
and so the peace between them was not broken.
Only one thing remained to give them any uneasiness-and that was their travelling bag. For, on the
journey, some inconsiderate person had remarked
that he believed one of the outside passengers was
just recovering from an attack of the small pox,
caught at Staunton, where there had recently been
several cases of it.
"Oh, our travelling bag!" exclaimed  she who
seemed to be rather the bellwether of the party.
"The man has been sitting on our travelling bag!"
HIe had, in fact, been sitting, at one time, with
his back against the unlucky piece of baggage; and
it very naturally followed that he had given it the
small pox. 
UNPROTECTED LAI)DIES.
What was to be done? The bag contained a
part of their several wardrobes which could no more
be dispensed with than shutters to the windows.
What in the world was to be done?
"Have you ever been vaccinated?" first asked
each of the other.
"Yes, I have been vaccinated," was the reply all
round.
"Have you been revaccinated?"
"Yes, I have been revaccinated."
"Then let me see the scar."
The scars were, some of them, hard to find; but,
when found, were all pronounced satisfactory. And
after much debating of the point, it was finally decided that, if the bag should be well smoked, and
then its contents washed, a globule from phial marked
44 being put in the tub, they would run very little,
if any, risk of taking the contagion.
It is more than probable that they escaped this
peril also; for there was some reason for believing
that the traveller who made the remark about the
outside passenger having this disease, was an evildisposed person who could not resist the malicious
pleasure of quizzing these respectable, but unprotected ladies. If so, he deserved the severest condemnation, and will no doubt find his reward reserved for him in the future.
39
i
i 
40       TO DIXIE AND TIJE TP OPICS.
At the close of the bathing season, on returning
to the inn at the "Sweet," I inquired of the majordomo if any of the "five ladies" had had the small
pox b)efore leaving, and was glad to learn that, up to
that time, the disease had not made its appearance
among them. They had passed the summer, on
the whole, to their satisfaction, though, on being
weighed the morning of their departure, it was
found that, after all their endeavors to the contrary,
they had not gained a single pound. But if they
had not gained, so had they not lost anything. And
their dresses would not need altering.
A good many suggestions, the manager informed
me, he had received from them, in the course of the
summer, as to how the accommodations of his house
might be improved against another season. They
had, indeed, planned an entirely new cast of the
whole establishment, adding an additional wing to
the house, removing the stables, changing the fences,
turning the current of the creek, and doing a good
deal of painting and whitewashing, both indoors
and out. They had, also, closely calculated, with
slate and pencil, the value of the property-houses,
lands, baths, and live stock-besides making an estimate of the gross and net receipts of the establishment; and, by their own showing, had run the pro 
UNPROT'ECTED LADIES.
prietor in debt for betterments to full three times the
value of his estate.
To all these suggested improvements, therefore,
the innkeeper had gravely shaken his head; and, in
winding up his story, he further intimated to me
that, in his opinion, persons, whose wants at a hotel
were the most numerous and unreasonable, did not
always live any better at home than those who were
more easily pleased, and took things as they came.
"Hiowever," added he, "they were very worthy
ladies; and, no doubt, had been accustomed to have
their own way at home-everything pat-and just
so.  But our servants could not get along with them
at all.  Poor Polly's head- she's the maid- was
turned before they had been in the house a week;
and Sam, the small boy who waited on them at table,
was fairly brought down, the day before their departure, with what is called here the'break-bone
fever.'"
41 
CHAPTER V.
The Warm Springs.
HE  view from the top of the Warm Springs
mountain is said to be the most beautiful of
any in this part of the Alleghanies. Although, in
either boldness of outline or grace of detail, it cannot by any means be compared with the famous
scenes of the Alps or the Pyrenees, still it will well
repay the trouble of the ascent. You climb to a
rocky crag, whence there is a panoramic view of
summits and intervening vales, far and wide, until
the distant horizon is lost in mists, or ranges so remote as scarcely to be distinguished from the clouds.
The shadows of passing masses of vapor lie about in
black spots upon the green foliage of the forests,
which cover both mountains and valleys. For everywhere here is this green veil drawn over the face
of nature.   Only the narrow streams, meandering
through the vales, send up a silver gleam; or, here 
THE WARMF SPRINGS.
and there, a cultivated hillside is yellow with grain;
or the limestone road glistens, as, like a scaly moinster, it winds its coils around the breasts of the
mountains; or, far below, a whitewashed cottage,
with its curl of blue smoke, lends its brilliant contrast to gardens and meadows. And yet, at second
look, you observe that, while the nearer summits are
overspread with the numerous variations of green,
from the white birch's delicate tints to those of the
sombre cedar, there are on the remoter ranges such
great numbers of the yellow pine, stripped of its
foliage by the preceding winter's fires, and showing
only its bark, that a purple hue prevails in many
localities, almost deep enough to remind one of the
heathery hills of Scotland.
Passing from the general view to the examination
of details, you see below you, on the western side,
the valley of the Warm Springs. It is as lovely as a
vale in Vallambrosa long, and moderately narrow,
with several gaps in the mountains on either side,
and through one of them passes out toward the west
the small stream which flows down from near the
head of the valley. By its side runs a carriage road,
along which are scattered a few habitations; the little cluster of buildings at the bath being the principal ones.  The meadows are not so low but that you
can watch the mowers as they swing the scythe, or
43 
44       GO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS
the haymakers piling up the thick stacks; and so far
are the undulations of sound conveyed through the
clear, elastic air, that you distinctly hear the sheepbell tinkling firom neighboring siunmits, the lowing
of cattle on the cultivated hillsides, and even the
shrill call and answer of quail whistling to each other
from still lower grain fields.
The mountain situated opposite you, and on the
other side of the valley, has its sides very evenly
ribbed, or furrowed, the upper half being thickly
wooded, and the lower under tillage.  Its ridge is a
gracefully undulating line; and so sharp is it that
the topmost trees have the appearance of being set
upon it as a fringe. When in the afternoon the suni
has somewhat declined from the zenith, only the
treetops between the furrows on the declivities are
directly illumined by its rays, while those in the furrows themselves are dark with shade. The tall
woods, also, that skirt the cultivated half of the
mountain side, cast long shadows upon the green of
the pastures and the yellow of the grain fields;
while single elms and chestnuts, here and there, project their profiles far down into the still sun-lit valley. To this unequal distribution of light and shade
the landscape owes its most pleasing effects.
Indeed, it is the charm of this scenery, that it is
never seen twice the same. WVith every change of 
THE WAR-R SPRINGS.
light and shade, in different positions of the sun,
fiom various points of observation, in different states
of the atmosphere, the aspects of this mountainous
and wooded nature vary perpetually. The beholder
is constantly discovering some new features in the
landscape, graces before overlooked, a more true and
significant expression. The mountains are a very
Proteus-a chameleon, rather-and their tints change
while one is looking at them. For now the distances
are a deep blue, and nown they are purple. The sun
lights up, at one moment, the round-topped hills covered with flowering chestnuts; at another, the rays
being withdrawn, the hollows of the valleys are dark
as evening. Large white clouds gradually form
above the higher summits, and, one by one, float off
into midheaven. The mists rise, and again are dissi.
pated. At high noon, there is not a shadow among
the whole multitude of mountains; while, at early
morn and evening, every peak, and crag, and rock,
and lone-standing tree has its reflected image, and
the forms of the landscape are multiplied twofold.
This hour, the vapors, driven by the winds, are
chasing each other, like wandering spirits, athwart
the sky and over the mountain tops; the rain clouds
gathering, dash against the summits, and break over
the valleys; the thunder rattles from one end of the
heavens to the other, shivering, with its bolts, the
45
II
I 
46      TO DIXIE ANVD THE TROPICS
monarchs of the forest, and illumining with frequent
flashes the untimely obscurity. The next, the winds
are hushed; the sun bursts brightly out of the
clouds, which roll away to the eastward; the bow
of promise, spanning the heavens, binds together the
distant mountain tops; the wet foliage of the trees
glistens in the sunlight; and, at evening, the last
rays of declining day spread the hue of roses over
the round clouds which, here and there, elevate their
gorgeous heads above the horizon. Then, in their
turn, the gorgeous clouds losing the tints too fair to
last, the stars light up their fires on the highest
peaks; the valleys are peacefully folded in the mantle of evening; and the grim mountains sleep.
There is no luxury in water greater than that of
the Warm Springs bath.
That one of these fountains used for bathing is
protected by an amphitheatre, having a circular opening in the roof, for light and ventilation. You undress in an anteroom, and descend by a flight of
steps into the pool, which is some forty feet in diameter. The water, generally, is about five feet deep,
but may be made higher, or lower, to suit the stature
of the bather-the rule being that it shall come up
to his chin. A rope is stretched across the bath, and
upon that one may hang, or lean. The temperature
of the water is about ninety-six degrees of Fahren 
THE WARM SPRINGS.
heit around the edge of the pool, and ninety-eight in
the centre; where, especially, it comes gushing up
with innumerable gas bubbles from between the
stones which cover the bottom.
On entering, everybody feels perfectly well-to-do
in this bath-however he may do in the world.-  The
water readily fraternizes with the bather's blood,
both being of about the same temperature.  One can
promenade, or swim; he can loll on the rope, or sit
meditative on the steps. In either of these cases, he
is all under water, except his head, and he feels as
though he. could never willingly get out of it. This
is, in quality, exceedingly buoyant; so that the individual, too large to get about in the air with entire
comfort, here feels not much heavier than a feather,
and gay enough to dance hornpipes. It is so soft
that the roughest hide will seem smooth, as if anointed with myrrh and frankincense. It is, also, perfectly transparent; and the light, streaming through
the circular opening in the roof, not only fills a portion of the pool with the gorgeous colors of the
prism, but also furnishes the stones lying at the bottom with tints, as if they were all precious-rubies,
pearls, and emeralds.
Steeped in this delightful element, the traveller
forgets the aches of the road; the rheumatic feels
the pains in his bones assuaged; the cripple is con
47 
48       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
scious in his chords that they are relaxing; the nervous invalid is soothed; and all, no longer oppressed
by ills, whether of the body or the mind, revel in the
most delicious sensations, or are transported in daydreams into far-off, happy planets, where the inhabitants live ill warm water.
But perhaps the greatest charm of the bath is its
bubbles.  These come up, here and there, as they
will; sometimes single, then in pairs, and again in
clusters-like the going off of a bouquet of rockets.
As you stand up in the water, those rising from between the stones directly beneath you attach themselves, as if drawn by some magnetic influence, to
your legs; and then creeping up your body, produce
a species of titillation the most exquisite, surely, ever
felt. They tickle you as if it were fun for them,
too.
If you give the little things a serious thought,
you cannot persuade yourself that they are not animated, happy existences. As they rise to the surface over the whole bath, those directly in the rays
of the sun show, even on starting firom the bottom,
the prismatic colors, the violet predominating; while
those in the shade flash through the water like balls
of silver. They all come trembling, quivering, dancing up to the surface. And when they gain it, the
round ball becomes a half sphere, and floats for an 
THE WARM SPRINGS.
instant on the water. It is as though the joyous,
sparkling being, after its brief dance of life from
bottom to top of the water, were given one instant
of more perfectly conscious delight, ere bursting into
void and nought. For it is only a half-dozen seconds
that the bubble reposes on the water, though some
are longer lived than others; and when it breaks, the
expansive force of the rupture drives a tiny circle
outward with infinite grace, but quickly to disappear
in the level smoothness of the surface; or oftener,
mingling with other kindred circles in lines of intricate and confused harmony.
But you have time, first, to observe that the bubbles floating in the sunlight have in their centre a
point of red light flashing like AIars in the heavens;
while those in the shade are lit up with the softer
ray of those stars whose light is white. These are
the souls of the bubbles, no doubt, that burn with
fires only less purely intellectual than those which
shine out of the eyes of man, or beast.
Though creations of a moment's vain endurancemere bubbles on the water-these, too, burn their
tiny tapers in God's temple, as well as do the priests
before their altars.  Myriads upon myriads of them,
without ceasing, here rise and shine, as wonderful in
formation as the sun and moon; all obedient, in form
and motion, to the great laws of the universe; each
3
49 
50      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
perfect in its kind, and without spot. And yet how
few of the multitudes who lave their weary or enfeebled limbs in this pool of healing-alas! how
few-ever care for these poor bubbles!
The manners here are those of the South, and
decidedly suited to the summer watering place.
There is nothing townish about them. All the men
and women seem as much at home as if they had
been brought up here, mingling in rustic scenes with
natural grace, unconstrained, simple,  and  happy,
without too much excitement. If a lady finds it
convenient to dine in a morning dress, she is at liberty to do so. There is no objection to calico at a
picnic. The evening's dance will, indeed, bring out
a few short sleeves and low necks, where arms and
shoulders are so very pretty; but all sorts of styles
are admissible; and, while the gardens are rifled of
roses, pinks, and honeysuckles, to twine in the young
girls' tresses, I scarcely ever saw an artificial flower
in the mountains. Sometimes, the first day after her
arrival, a lady will come down to dinner looking sufficiently stiff and uncomfortable; but the next,, she
also gives her stays a little more string, leaves off the
heavy silk, and begins to learn some of the artless
grace of nature in these vales.
At the Northern spas, most of the ladies look as
though they were not out of town. Their style of 
TIHE WARM SPRINGS.
dress, not being expressly adapted to the bathing
place, like that of English ladies, reminds one con stantly of balls in the Fifth Avenue, and of the
boxes of the Academy of Music. There is as much
whalebone around the heart of the belle, in a hop at
the "Ocean House," or the "United States," as if
the public room of a summer tavern were an Al mack's, or the drawing room of Queen Victoria.
The graces which attend her steps are not rustic,
surely.
The manners of our Southern friends have a peculiar adaptation to the spas, from the fact that their
life at home is mainly rural. This gives them an air
of naturalness at these places, and enables them, also,
to pass their time pleasantly, without bringing thither
the routine of morning calls and card leaving, the
giving of balls and dinners, with formal invitations,
and refreshments sent by express from town.
Has not, perhaps, the presence of the colored
race at the Southern baths something to do with
this air of simple, natural, hearty enjoyment of the
country, which prevails there? Sambo on his travels, in his best doublet and hose, riding on the top of
stage coaches, smitten at every different bath with
the face of some new Phyllis, and realizing, at last,
the fond burden of his song of "Oh, carry me back
to old Virginny," wears a face in which the wrinkles
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52      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
are, none of care, and all of merriment. The carbonic acid he drinks in the mineral waters has upon
him the effect of the exhilarating gas; while the
lively air of the hills makes him as cheery as though
he had been drinking whiskey toddy. Hle takes his
summer life easily; and, in his simplicity, enjoys the
succession of passing events-though but the arrival
of the stage coach, or the simple carrying a glass of
mint julep with a straw in it to his master-to such
a degree that these Springs, constantly giving back
the picture of his grinning face, might better be
called the Laughing Waters than those of the Upper
Mississippi.
On the other hand, the Irish immigrant, who
mostly performs the service of our Northern hotels,
carries in his face no sign of summer-day satisfaction
-much less, any excess of radiance to reflect on society. Patrick has no banjo; and can no more sing
a song than a Jew by the waters of Babylon. The
donkey that stands at the hotel door has much more
drollery in his head than this exile from beyond seas,
who is a mere scrub, and scullion, not even possessed
of wit enough to make a good flunky. His mulish
physiognomy suggests no visions of rural enjoyment,.
and the life Arcadian. On the contrary, the very
sight of these coarse-handed waiters, and wenches
unkempt, is enough to disenchant all the illusions 
THE WARM SPRINGS.
with which one may have come down into the countiy respecting the purity of life in the midst of
nature, and the chances of meeting nymphs in the
woods. Who, forsooth, ever..saw a naiad in fountains when Bridget was drinking at them?
It really does make a difference, and that in favor
of the Southern spa, this thrumming of the banjo in
the evening twilight, together with an occasional
melody heard from under the gum trees-for banjos
are as numerous in Virginia, if not quite as romantic,
as guitars in Spain.  And one "picked" under my
windows, on the evening of the full moon in the
month of August, I remember with especial pleasure.
No sooner had the musician-I think his name was
Pompey-struck up his tune,.than all the colored
amateurs within hearing flocked around. At first,
two or three small black boys, unable to restrain
their heels, began to shuffle on the pavement with
might and main. But straightway an older negro,
crying to these small boys to get out of the way,
and, at the same time, frightening them off the walk
by blowing a low note from his steam whistle, took
up himself the jig. He wore a slouched felt hat,
turned up, however, both before and behind, like the
ancient cocked one, and which, for band, was tied
around with a long gray garter, that hung down over
hIis left shoulder. Having on a heavy pair of boots,
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54       TO DI.IE AND) THE TROPICS.
worn outside his breeches, he at once made the pave ment ring; scraping it furiously with his soles, and
knocking it sharply and rapidly with his heels. All
the while the' double joints in his knees were in full
play, as also his shoulders; and, in fact, every bone
and muscle in his whole body. Now, his feet were
thrown nearly as high as his head, and his arms a
good deal higher.  Now, his legs were extended like
a dancing girl's; and, again, the hinges in his knees
were bent double. From time to time, I could see
his eyes, when he turned them upward, flash with the
excitement of the fling, though in the dark; his ivory
shone through his mouth like the moon out of clouds;
the half-suppressed cry of triumph-a sort of horse
laugh-would occasionally break from his throat; and
when, at length, he came to stamp out the finale of
the "breakdown," the blowing of his steam whistle
might have been heard at the distance of half a mile.
A public table is a very good place for showing
off the bringing up of children.  One small boy,
four or five years of age, who had a seat directly
opposite mine, one day gave me an opportunity of
making an observation or two on the effects of tle
discipline of the Virginia nursery. He was a determined-looking little fellow, evidently accustomed to
carrying things at home with a high hand, and kicking all the little negroes about, right and left. 
THE WARM SPRINGS.
He began his dinner with a dish of almonds,
which happened to be standing before him, and at
which he made a sudden grab the moment he was in
his chair.  No squirrel ever put nuts into his mouth
faster than he did for about a couple of minutes,
at the end of which  time he began  filling his
pockets.
At length, the waiter asked him what he would
have for dinner.
"Give me chicken," said he, sharply.
The chicken was brought.
"Give me jelly."
The currant jelly, also, was brought.
But, very soon, something  going  wrong, the
youth began to cry. His mother, however, appeased
him; and, stopping his noise, he called in a mild
tone of voice for some milk.
"Give me milk."
This furnished, he did not withdraw his nose
from the cup until it had touched the bottom; and
when he did, there was still a drop pendent at its
,tip. This, however, fell off, as, throwing his head
back against the chair, he drew a loud, long breath,
as if his dinner were done, and he himself completely exhausted.
But a few moments' rest revived him, when he
"returned to his muttons."  Yet, nothing within
55'
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56      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
sight suiting him, he sat, for the next five minutes,
grumbling and whining, and in a humor decidedly
unfavorable to the digestion of his almonds, chicken,
jelly, and milk. But, at length, having made himself and his parents sufficiently uncomfortable, he
knew what he wanted, and cried out, boldly:
" Give me'lasses!"
" Molasses, Sammy!" replied his father.  " You
don't want molasses at dinner."
This paternal reproof brought the blood into the
face of the heir, and, gathering up all the strength
of his lungs for one burst of wrath,:he bawled out,
high above the clatter of knives and forks:
"'Lasses!'lasses! corn-dodger, and'lasses!"
The molasses was produced-if for no other purpose, to stop the young wretch's mouth. But corndodger being a breakfast cake,; he was cajoled into
substituting a piece of bread for it. This he now
amused himself with working around in the molasses
until the bread was well soaked- through, and more
or less broken to pieces.  How then to get these
fragments into his mouth, was the next question.
A spoon did not altogether suit him; and, finally,
in went the fingers.  These carried hinm successfully through the job; though, at the end of it,
his face was as well smeared, from ear to ear, as
if he had been sucking at the bunghole of the ori 
THE WARM SPRINGS.
ginal hogshead. He was now told to wipe his face
on his napkin; but I think he did it on the table
cloth.
To all appearances, the little gourmand was satiated. He leaned back in his chair, braced his feet
against the table, and seemed as quiet as if he had
been the fattest boy in the State, instead of being,
as he was, as lean as a stick.
But he was not through his dinner yet.  Giving
the rickety table a sudden push with his feet, which
overturned a good-sized dish of custards, he resumed
his upright position, and cried out:
" Beef-give me beef!"
"Oh, sonny!" exclaimed the mother, "you have
eaten enough."
" No, no, no!" was the indignant reply.  "Give
me beef! give mebeef!"
What was to be done with the little rascal? He
kicked, squirmed, threw up his napkin, and still cried
for beef. He would have it.
Well, the beef, too, was brought. But he
wouldn't touch it-didn't want it-and sat pouting
with one finger in his mouth.  In fact, he could eat
no more. But as nobody said a word to him, he was
the more indignant; and, bursting into a rage, he
threw the plate containing the beef into his father's
lap, that containing the remainder of the molasses
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58      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
into his mother's, and himnself, at the same time,
under the table.
" Coesar," called out the father, "take away this
blackguard!"
And, before Sammy had time to catch his breath,
and scream twice, Cvesar had him out of the dining
hall.
Little Sammy was, indeed, an exceptional child;
but I have seen his yokefellow in these mountains.
The one was in the highest class of society; the
other, in the lowest. One day, when I was going by
stage coach from the White Sulphur to the Sweet
Springs, the driver took up by the roadside a couple
of natives, having with them a child about four years
of age. They were of the most vulgar order of persons to be met with in this, or any other of the
States; foul in language, and not clean in appear
ance, both half tipsy, and disposed to be loquacious.
But without further description of them, suffice it to
say that the child was a little monster, being of
almost twice the sizernatural for his years, and having the manners of a boy approaching his teens.
Already, he had taken to the bottle, and sucked whiskey as another child would pap. The little barbarian
also imitated his parents in another bad habit-he
swore like a pirate. I did not see him chew tobacco;
but doubt not he will smoke his "long nine " before 
TEE WARM SPRINGS.
he is a couple of years older. The only way of
keeping him quiet was to ply him with sugar candy,
and give him, now and then, a taste of the whiskey.
But at last, being tired of the motion of the carriage,
and out of sorts from the regimen he had adopted,
he swore, at one of the stopping places, that  he
would go no farther.
"I no go beyond dis place, nohow," said he to his
parents.  "See you both d    d fust!"
Children, whether of the rich, or the poor, are
not too well brought up in this country. In those
states of Europe which have made the greatest progress in civilization, especially in England, the care of
children is much more methodical, and painstaking,
than in this newer part of the world.  English clildren are provided with simpler food, suited to their
years, and are not allowed to partake of the stimulating diet of their elders. The bone and sinew of
the tall Scotchman come from the oat porridge he ate
when a boy. British children are kept in subjection
to rules; they are made regularly to say their prayers,
and the catechism; they are early instructed by
tutors, and governesses; and afterward, the boys are
well whipped at Etoni.  But our "Young America"
enjoys quite too much infantile independence; is too
much left to servants and negroes; gets his religion
from the Sunday school-which is,' I fear, a poor sub
59 
60       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
stitute for parental supervision and the catechizing
of the parson; uses his leading strings as a slow
match-un mechon-to light his cigars with; makes
a byword of "Does your mother know you're out?"
and, first thing you know, joins the Order of the
"Know Nothings," for which, indeed, he has every
qualification. 
CItAPTELR VI.
The White Sulphur.
N  the height of the season, there are a hundred
arrivals a day at the White Sulphur. Then,
when nobody can get accommodations, everybody
will insist on being there; for, in the month of August, the most beautifiul ladies of Virginia and the
South hold their court of love at this fountain; and,
their fame going abroad through the mountains, the
guests of the other Springs hasten to this centre of
attraction.   All the generals  and judges of the
Southern country, too, then come to drink at these
white waters. Nobody is of a lower grade than a
colonel; and, to be called esquire, would argue a
man of doubtful consideration.
To the Northerner, this sounds a little singular;
and, if he happens to be a peaceful  scholar,T(r example, who has scarcely pulled a trigger in his life, 
62       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
and knows only so much of arms as is contained
in the
"Arma virumque   "
of the poet, it is not without a certain degree of surprise, and a keen sense of the ludicrous, that he hears
himself respectfully dubbed a colonel.
But not even the being addressed by the very
highest titles, will, at this part of the season, save a
single man the necessity of sleeping-two in a chamber. There are no adequate accommodations for all
these fine ladies and gentlemen. At night, the floors
of drawing rooms and parlors are strewn with mattresses; and lucky is the guest who can secure one.
Trunks are piled up, ceiling high, in the halls and
passages; so that, excepting the fortunate inmates
of the pretty private cottages, the thousand and one
visitors at the White Sulphur are, of all men, by no
means the most miserable, but, probably, the most
uncomfortable.*
One August morning, as I was standing in the
doorway of the office, a well-dressed gentleman
drove up in a buggy, and, getting out, asked for a
room.
"We  cannot accommodate you,  sir," said the
clerkslooking at the stranger with an air of disinterested unconcern.
* A new hotel has since been erected. 
THE WHITE SULPHUR. -
"But you can give me a mattress, or a sofa?"
was the confident rejoinder.
"Impossible! not one left; and the last three
chairs in the house taken half an hour ago!"
"Boy," said the rejected, but not disconcerted
new comer, turning his quid from one cheek to the
other, at the same time that he turned on his heel
toward a servant, "unstrap my trunk."
"It really is of no use, sir," continued the clerk,
calmly; "we cannot accommodate you."
"Carry my trunk under that oak tree, yonder,"
no less quietly added the stranger, and still addressing the black boy.
"Now," said he, sitting down  on the trunk,
which had been deposited under the protection of
the branches, "fetch my buffalo robe; and I'll be
d    d if I can't sleep here!"
This proof of pluck was an indirect appeal to the
generous and hospitable sentiments which no true
Virginian could withstand. There was a general
clapping of hands on the utterance of this Diogenic
resolution to take things as they came, and the luck
of the pot with them;  and one of the bystanders
immediately stepping forward, politely offered to
share his quarters with the tenant of the buffalo
robe, who, accordingly, instead of living under an
oak, like a Druid, now found himself the fortunate
63 
64      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
possessor of an apartment in one of the prettiest cottages on the grounds.
In the very height of the season there is no such
thing as dining satisfactorily at some of the Springs,
however well a person may fare there at all other
times. Then, you fee the waiters, and still they
bring you nothing.  Poor fellows, they have nothing
to bring! for the flour has given out; the cows have
been milked dry; the mutton has run off into the
mountains; and the chief cook has gone distracted!
If you can manage to seize upon a bit of beef, and a
slice of bread,'tis your main chance, and hold on to
it.  Do not run any risks in looking about for vegetables, much less for side dishes, or pepper, or salt.
For, while you are vainly endeavoring to accomplish
impossibilities, some light-fingered waiter, under pretence of changing your plate, will run off with your
only chance of a dinner.
The scene presents a most ludicrous struggle for
bones, and cold potatoes.  Or, rather, it is fearful to
witness such a desperate handling of the knife; to
see so many faces red with rage at getting nothing;
and ladies' cheeks pale with waiting; and starving
gourmands looking stupefied into the vacuum of the
platters before them; and disappointed dyspeptics
leaving the table with an expression on their faces of
"I'll go hang myself." Add, besides, to what one 
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
sees, that which he hears-the maledictions heaped
liberally upon the heads of cook, and provider; the
clatter of what knives and forks succeed in getting
brought into action; the whistling and roaring of
Sambo, and the rattling of his heels; with, now and
then, an awful crash of chinaware, a slide of plates,
or an avalanche of whips and custards; for, where
there are several dozens of waiters running up and
down the hall, like race horses, there must be occasional collisions; and these, aga'in, lead to fights, at
least once, or more, in the season, when a couple of
strapping black boys knock each other's noses flatter,
and make their mutual wool fly. Truly, the Frenchman who dines on the hair of his mustache, and the
end of his toothpick, in front of the Cafe de Paris,
is a lucky fellow, and has something under his jacket,
compared with these boarders at two dollars per
diem.
But it is still worse dining, when it rains. The
ancient roofs of some of these halls and piazzas are
not made of caoutchouc; and you cannot then sit at
meat without two black boys at your back-one to
keep off the flies, and the other to hold over your
head an umbrella. There is a good excuse for the
soup being thin on such days.'Tis, in fact, mere
rain water, with, possibly, a fly, or two, in it.
All the doctors lay down the rule, that the patient
65 
66        TO D)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
must drink mineral waters on an empty stomach;
and, by my troth, it is easy following it, during the
height of the season, at some of these Springs. That
organ is rarely so much occupied in its legitimate
business as to be in an unfit state to receive a glass
from the fountain. It is said that Chinamen, when
hard pushed for other articles of food, can subsist
tolerably well on water diet; and, in spending the
month of August here, one comes gradually to comprehend how the thing can be done.
"Eat a little milk, a little mush, or a very thin
soup," said the mineral-water doctor, at one of the
Springs, after he had looked at my tongue, and was
still gravely holding me by the pulse, "and drink the
water ad libitum."
"It is well to diet a little, while drinking the
spring water," said the landlord to me, soon afterward, in the course of some conversation with him.
"They both agree in their views," said I to myself; "and what is sworn to by two disinterested
witnesses ought certainly to be true. I'll live on
bread and milk for the next fortnight."
Luckily for myself, I did not die in the attemptthough the price of three or four private dinners,
which afterward appeared in my bill, indicated that
I must have felt very " far gone" when I ordered
them.  Indeed, such rules are preposterous, and can 
fi
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
only be observed with such a long list of exceptions
as completely disproves them. If I were a doctorpeace! ghost of Abernethy-I would say to my
patient:
"Drink thy sulphur water before breakfast, 0
man! if thou wilt; but if thou expect ever to derive
any benefit from it, have a saddle of mutton, or good
fat steaks, and sherris-sack, for dinner!"
Still, one likes to be at the fashionable Springs
when the crowd is greatest. At the others, it is not
so. There, he wishes to be well accommodated-to
have a large, airy apartment-to be well served at
the table-and to enjoy his quiet, and the society of
a small circle of friends; but here, he desires to be
in the midst of the grand movement. The more
colonels, the better. The more pretty ladies, the
gayer.  He wants to talk upon politics with all the
judges; attack or defend Sebastopol with all the
generals; dance attendance on all the well-bred
dames, and waltz with all their daughters. Half the
pleasure is in the excitement which proceeds from
the great number of persons collected together. Let
the fashionable crowd dwindle down to a few dozens,
and you leave also. Then you can have an entire
suite of rooms, and excellent dinners, with a waiter
at each elbow. But, no. When you see the trunks
brought down, and hear the farewells said, you are
67 
68       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
as homesick as anybody, and crowd into the ninth
place in the coach, rather than run the risk of being
the last man to leave the mountains. So unreason-.
able are we all.
"Miss," said the maid of the belle of the White
Sulphur-it was not her own, as it happened-" dey
say you be de most handsome young lady in de
Springs!"
"Who says that, Molly?" inquired the beauty,
as she stood surveying the slope of her shoulders in
the mirror, previously to their being veiled in muslin.
"Dat say de tall gentle'um from de Kentuck
State-him wid de black mustachy."
"You're mistaken, Molly."
" Can't be, miss; dat be true as Baptist preachin'
in de Caroline. I stand in de winder, and see miss
and dat gentle'umn eatin' chicken salad togeder; and
what de gentle'um say, a'most make miss choke herself-he! he! he!"
"Nonsense!  And what, Molly, do you think of
the thin gentleman from the North, with the small,
blue eyes?"
"I see him, tu, at de Spring, afore breakfast;
and he so stare at miss, over de top of he's tumbler,
and sigh so in he's sulph' water, dat I know'd de case
be done gone wid him."
"And the short yomung man, with reddish whiskers?" 
THE WHITE SULPH UR.
"Oh, miss! him's nice; him's sweet as'taters!
When he make love, never look back."
"Molly, you are very foolish. There is nobody
in love with me."
"Can't be so, miss; for, Jim tell me, dat Tom
tell him, dat when miss tuk her steps in de ballroom,
last night, all de young gentle'um-and some of de
ole gentle'um, tu-look gone distract', and a-sinkin'
through de floor."
And well they' might; for this young lady was of
good height, symmetrically formed, with small hands
and feet; and while most persons would say she was
slender, others, again, pronounced her plump. There
was the faintest possible blush of red in her cheeks,
and just enough to relieve the exceedingly delicate,
yet rich, brown tint, which Southern suns had lent to
her complexion. The auburn ringlets fell in graceful
profusion till they swept her shoulders. Her large
hazel eye was as soft as that of a fawn in these
mountains. In the prevailing expression of her face,
delicacy and sweetness, intelligence and affection,
were equally blended.  Her manners, ordinarily, were
so gentle that they might almost be characterized as
languid; and yet, at times, there was a degree of
vivacity in look and motion, a sprightly play of emotions about the flexible mouth, and even a dance, a
very masquerade and merry-making of wits and fan
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t0 lTO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
cies in her eyes, which gave to her whole person such
an airy, buoyant expression, that the next moment
you half expected to see her soar upward, as easily
as a hawk to the clouds.
Surely, the "old families " of Virginia and South
Carolina are no fable. One sees in their daughters
that high-born air, that easy grace, that feminine
delicacy, which shows their blood is gentle; and,
like oft-decanted wine, has been refined by being
poured through the veins of at least three well-born
generations. A native modesty, self-possessed; and
startled only by the advances of rudeness, or indelicacy, indicates an education obtained more in the
sweet privacy of a rural home, than in the public
academies of cities-more in the society of relatives
and familiar friends, than in the company to be met
with at fashionable hotels and the world's rendezvous. I have nowhere seen young ladies whose presence was more hedged about with privacy. And yet
there is no lack of natural freedom and the play of
native instinct in their manners. The laugh is gay;
the word leaps from the heart; the confidence is
given without a suspicion of the possibility of betrayal. It is an artlessness guarded by no premeditation. But there is, at the same time, a quick, nice
sense of maidenly propriety, which, though never
intrusive, still is always putting a gentle restraint 
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
upon the action of the impulses, always keeping a
rein, fine as gossamer, upon the swift running of the
tongue, and always guiding the burning chariot
wheels of nature's passions around all the goals of
early life with grace, and safety.
The accomplished belle of the White Sulphur
had, to my eyes, the look of a lady who was never
expecting admiration but had been ever receiving it.
From her childhood up, it could not be otherwise
than that she had been continually surrounded by
domestic love and chivalrous courtesy. This longcontinued reflection in her face, as in the mirror of
the photographist, of the tenderest and noblest qualities of the heart, had finally left there the likeness of
their own beautiful form and coloring. She was, herself, the very glass of love and courtesy. Whatever
was gentle and amiable in her natural disposition had
been drawn out and fostered by this atmosphere of
affectionate respect in which she had lived-as the
rose unfolds more perfectly its beauty in the'well-tempered air of the conservatory than when exposed to
the blight and the worm, the cold and the winds of
the neglected garden. And, indeed, as there is no
grace which more becomes a woman than that expression of face and manner she derives from the
interchange of domestic  affection, and  from  the
adoration of men of honor and generous sentiments;
71 
72  TO DIXIE ANVD THE TROPICS.
so there is nothing which so effectually withers and
stains the heavenly bloom of beauty as daily contact
with only the vicious and the vulgar.
As for amusements here, do they not consist in
drinking the waters, bathing, and, three times a day,
supplying the wants of nature by vigorous efforts
with the trencher? A few persons bring their books
with them as an additional source of entertainment;
but most are satisfied with occasionally looking
through a newspaper, a magazine, or some learned
treatise that may be lying about, on the use of mineral waters. The gentlemen sit half the morning
through in easy, wicker-bottom chairs, under the
trees, conversing on the subject of politics, estimating the amount of the cotton and rice crops, smoking
cigars, drinking juleps, commenting on a passing
lady, a horse, or a stage coach. Rarely does a Virginian propose a walk.  He prefers to sit, two hours
together, beneath the shade. An active, inquisitive
Yankee will go out, and explore a mountain, or look
at a neighboring farm, and, returning, find the Southerner in the seat where he left him. An alligator in
the State from which he comes, would not lie on a
log longer. The Northern-born man, rising, perhaps,
not much later than the sun, racing up hill and down
to get what he calls a little exercise, climbing the
pathless mountains for views of the scenery, and 
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
scouring the valley without any purpose whatever,
unless it be the,getting rid of half a day he knows
not what to do with, is thought by him of the terra
caliente a sort of madcap, flibbertigibbet, a personifi     cation of unreason.  The latter will make as much
effort as may be necessary to back a horse; if there
is game, he will occasionally go out with dog and
i   gun; and, in a few instances, I have seen him wet a
line for trout, or it might have been catfish.  At ten    pins, and at billiards, also, he will play.  But, on the
whole, it is an axiom with him, that too much exer    cise, as well as too much learning, will make a man
mad. Hle, therefore, disparages both.
For any man living on the sunny side of the
I Union, to do nothing seems to be no labor; and he
kills his time, apparently, without the pains of giving
it a thought.  After a while, indeed, all the visitors
at these Springs learn more or less of the art of get ting through the summer day easily.   One begins
with taking no note of the hour of the day, then lets
his watch run down, and finally forgets the day of
the week, and the month-all being alike, save Sun   day.   The morning  papers he has ordered  from
town, come to hand several days old, and with such
irregularity that, generally, the contradiction of the
news arrives before the news itself; so that, at last,
he comes to the conclusion that at the end of the
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73 
74  TO DIXIE ANVD THE TRi OPICS.
watering season nothing of importance will have
happened, and he sets his mind at rest.
As for the ladies, without knowing all the little
ways they have of amusing themselves, one sees in
their sweet faces that they are happy. They are,
also, the cause of by far the greater part of the happiness there is in these watering places.  If, by any
strange fatality, the air of the Alleghanies should
become fatal to ringlets, and the mineral waters
wash the red out of the peach in the cheek, how
soon would all these fair scenes revert to the original
savages!  But, fortunately, while woman  lends a
portion of her grace to the mountains, the gratefiul
rocks repay the gift by endowing her with powers
of enchantment superior even to those of old conferred on the Medea of the Caucasus.  In the eyes
of some man or other, every lady here is an enchantress. Scarcely was there a young man in the mountains, during the two seasons I spent there, who did
not seem, at times, to be under the influence of illusions, more or less soft and roseate.  Even my boy,
Custopol, was obliged to confess to me, one day, that
when, on the preceding Saturday night, Mary Jane
came out in her yellow skirt and green bodice with
a basque to it, a purple kerchief twisted round her
braided hair, on her feet red morocco slippers, and
gold drops pendent from her ears; and when he put 
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
his arm around her waist, and they went down the
boards together, while Pompey, in the corner,
"picked" his banjo, and all the "darkeys" in the
place stood up and down the kitchen;  and when
Mary Jane, turning softly, up her eyes, let him look
by the half minute together into the whites of them;
or, dancing round, poked her elbow in his ribs, and,
grinning, pulled his whisker-even Custy was obliged
to confess that he felt the tender passion.
The imagination, in fact, is as much exalted here
above its ordinary level, as the mountains are higher
than tide water.  Hence, it will happen that a man,
who, on coming  to these Springs, had no more
thought in his head of entering on the state of
matrimony than he had of making a fortune, finds,
before he has drunk and bathed a week, that he is in
the most imminent danger of making proposals. Of
course, there is no such thing ever dreamed of as
match-making at the White Sulphur. For that presupposes coldness of blood, and a lively activity of
the calculating faculties; whereas life in the mountains stimulates only the fantastic fancy, and the
more romantic sentiments.  No;  neither party is
entrapped.  On the contrary, what in the world is
more natural, when youth and maid drink together,
every day, out of the same Sulphur Spring, than that
they should have corresponding sensations in the
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6   TO DIXIE AND TIE TROPICS
region of the heart? They both look into the same
pool; there cannot be two opinions between them
respecting the taste of the water; they make precisely the same exclamations in their attempts at
swallowing it; they behold the self-same expression
of face reflected in each other's eyes as they set
down the cup; and so, in a multitude of instances,
before the lovers, feeling decidedly mawkish, if not
desperately sick at heart, get back to the hotel, the
momentous question is popped, and answered.
Love-making, therefore, may fairly be set down
as one of the amusements of the Virginia Springs;
whether it turn out to be really diverting to the parties concerned-cela depend.   But, in any event,
there will always be somebody, who, quietly looking
on from a distance, will extract more or less entertainment from the general aspects of the case, and
who, especially if it is seen to go hard with the
swain, as it often may, will really enjoy the agony,
as one does a farce when they play tragedy at Wallack's.
Probably'there is no better place in the States
for the study of character and manners than these
Springs-and this, too, is an amusement. Sometimes
half a dozen words let fall in casual conversation will
throw as much light on the dispositions of men, and
the working of their institutions, as a novel in two 
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
duodecimos, the reading of which will require half
a day.
"Jim," said a gentleman from Louisiana, travelling by the stage coach to the Bath Alum, "Jinm,
come inside here, and let me have your place up
there."
" Massa," replied the negro, almost as confidently
as if he had been his son, "dere's room enough here
for two."
"Jim," again said the gentleman, after he had
taken his seat by the side of the black boy, on the
top of the coach, "to-night you will see Sally; for
we shall meet Master William at the Alum."
I'se right glad of dat," was  the reply-Sally
being the maid of Master William's wife, and probably a good friend of Jimn's.
" Jim," said the master, once more, addressing
the boy after half an hour's conversation with myself, "did you ever see mountains before?"
"Oh, yes, massa; de river mountains on de
Mis'sippi."
"You mean when you were in Tennessee."
"'Xactly-dat was in Ten'see."
This same Jim, shortly afterward turning round
toward another negro, like himself, about sixteen
years of age, and sitting on the luggage, said:
"Cesar, look at dat line of mount'ns yonder; up
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78  TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
and down-jist as reg'lar as you could draw'em wid
a piece of chalk!"
"Even the dusky soul of the poor African, theln,
in its better moods," said I to myself, "is capable of
being touched by the grace of    nature; and feels, in
the presence of these mountain tops, its dull faculties aroused and strangely fascinated by the unwritten Word of God!"
Another source of pleasure upon which none of
the guests can refrain fromn relying, more or less, is
the arrival of the stage coach.  Let it happen however often in the day, it is still an important event.
One expects his friends; or, if not, somebody may
come he has met before;  at any rate he must see
who is there.
Down gets the first gentleman from the coach.
He is tall, with a large proportion of bone in him,
and only a moderate supply of muscle. His rather
long brown hair is brushed, like a Methodist minister's, off his forehead, which is a high one, but not
broad.   The  well-tanned  face  indicates vigorous
health, though a little sulphur water will be no disadvantage to the owner's liver. The air of calm
self-possession marks the man accustomed to command; while the slow gait and quiet motions suggest
the habit of overseeing work instead of performing
it. The blue dress coat with brass buttons, which
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THE WHIT.E SULPHUR.
is neither old nor new, together with light-colored
pantaloons, black satin vest, dark silk cravat, and
broad-brimmed felt hat, belong evidently to a gentleman somewhat careless of personal appearance, but
of independent circumstances; in short, it requires
no epaulettes to convince you at a glance that the
stranger'is a colonel from one of the eastern counties
of Virginia.
When his luggage is taken down, you will find
that it consists of a leather trunk covered with small
brass knobs and marked — with the owner's name, in
full, together with those of his county and State; on
the top of it is strapped a heavy overcoat, while at
one end dangle an extra pair of boots.  Thle colonel
travels without a hatbox; but has, instead, a wellworn pair of saddle bags, which are filled with the
smaller articles of his wardrobe;nd such "traps"
as he may very likely want on the journey.
On acquaintance, he proves to be a man of good
plain sense, who belongs to what he denominates the
Jeffersonian party in politics, tills the paternal acres
very much after the fashion of his father before him,
has, generally, a suit or two pending in the courts of
law, but is as goodnatured as he is highminded, and
really hates nobody. Once introduced, he will ask
you to take a julep with him.
The general moves in more state; he arrives in
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80. TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
his own coach and two, or even four-for this old fashioned turnout has not yet entirely disappeared in
the progress of civilization and the rail.  IHe may,
also, have two or three outriders, in the shape of
sons, on ponies, and black boys riding mares.  Sons,
servants, mares and horses, they are all of his own
raising; but the carriage, possibly, may have belonged to his father or some of his ancestors; for it
is after the ancient English model, round topped,
heavily timbered, and possessing the property, like
Homer's heroes, of never growing old. The trunks
being piled up behind, and to them attached a water
pail, the footman is obliged to squeeze himself into
what of the narrow seat in front is left by the
driver.
The latter is an old whip, whatever his age may
be.  Though without gloves, he handles the ribbons
with a careful precision, as if the leaders were every
moment about to spring into a run; though in shoes,
his immense feet hold well by the footboard; and in
a mere jacket, instead of the official capes, he produces, by means of his spread elbows, and blown-up
air, scarcely less of a sensation than the coachman of
my Lord Mayor of London.
When this whole affair sweeps up to the door of
the hotel, the excited landlord, especially if it be a
four-in-hand, rings his bell with a fury which indi 
THE WHITE SULPHUR.
cates that something extraordinary has happened;
and the servants come running, as if they expected
to witness the arrival of a dozen stage coaches at
once. But'tis even more than that;'tis a Virginian
general, with horses and mares, black boys and
maids, wife and children. The hair of every waiter
in the house would stand straight on end, but for the
curl in it!
The landlord opens the carriage door himself, hat
in hand; and the general gets out. He is a shorter
man than the colonel by a half inch, or more. He
has a broader and still more open face, a wider back,
and carries a respectable corporation before him.
His clothes are thin, the colors light, and his face is
red; while down out of his fob hangs a heavy gold
chain, with two ponderous, ancestral seals, and a key
between. The general takes off his white beaver
courteously to the colonel, who instantly steps forward to shake him by the hand.
While these congratulations are being exchanged,
down the carriage steps carefully comes Dinah. She
is dressed mostly in white, and has a cotton kerchief
of this color, striped with blue, tied so completely
over her hair, that only enough of it remains in sight
to show that it is becoming silvered o'er with the
pale cast of age;  while, over  the kerchief  and
directly on the back of her head, is set a bonnet of
4*
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open straw and muslin, originally made for the general's pretty daughter when she entered her teens,
and so small, withal, that it serves merely to cover
the good dame's'cerebellum.
The baby is then handed out to Dinah; the rest
follow; and when the trunks have been taken down,
and the carriage pockets emptied, Cuffy, the coachman, effects his exit with a crack of the whip, such
as makes not only his own horses, but all those
within an eighth of a mile, jump-each one  as
though it were about his own  ears the lash was
playing.
And when, any time within the next half hour,
the respectable Virginia farmer,  or esquire, wellto-do at home, rides up to the hotel door on his
nag, a greatcoat rolled up and tied, together with an
umbrella, behind the saddle, and a pair of leathern
bags, containing a scanty change of apparel, projecting beneath his thighs, the careless landlord scarcely
deigns to touch the bell once.   A  sleepy-looking
negro holds the new comer's bridle while he  dismounts; another, lazily taking the saddle bags on his
shoulders, and the roll under his arm, conducts him
to his chamber;  and there is no more noise made
over the arrival, compared with the previous excitement, than might be likened to the blowing of a horn
reversed. 
TlE WHITE SULPHUlP.
For the rest, there are a dozen or more of these
Springs. They all lie in the pretty Alleghanian valleys, within an easy day's, or half day's drive from
each other-the White Sulphur being in the centre.
The roads are generally good, with enough which
are bad to accommodate those who require a little
jolting. The stage coaches are well built; the drivers are skilful; and a dash on the outside of the
carriage through these hills refreshes and invigorates,
instead of fatiguing the traveller.  In fact, the now
almost obsolete pleasure of journeying by wheel may
here be enjoyed in its perfection, with social chat,
preceded by no formal introductions, with acquaintances, and, perhaps, friends made, whom it will
always be a pleasure to remember, and with such
good, plain fare, at roadside inns, as the sharpened
appetite will pronounce better than the very chefd'evres of cooks'in town.
The Springs are of all waters, having for their
principal ingredients sulphur, alum, iron, magnesia,
or salt. They are also tricolored, with deposits,
white, red, and blue. Some are used for drinking,
and some for bathing.   The invalid may have his
choice; and whatever his complaint, say the doctors,
it makes no difference-he is sure to be cured.' The
cripple is set up at the Hot Springs, andlthe malade
imaginaire is made whole at the Warm.          e  dys
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peptic is put on alum water, and the Southwesterner,
with bile in his blood and jaundice in his eyes, is
ordered to drink of the White Sulphur or the Salt.
The Healing Spring is good for the gout;  ladies,
weary after the winter's dancing, are strengthened
by bathing in the two Sweet Waters; the Blue Sulphur, taken before eating venison steaks, is said to
be excellent against all devils of the same color; and
ever since the publication of the learned Dr. Burke's
book, it is every man's own fault if he don't know
that the Red Sulphur is a certain cure for consumption.
The summer climate of these mountains is truly
delightful. The boundless forests on their tops are,
indeed, a magnet for the clouds; so that rain often
occurs in the day's chapter of accidents. But it is
merely a passing shower-a dash of big, fast-falling
drops-soon gone over the hills and far away. The
water runs immediately off the declivities, the drops
hang only a few moments from leaf and flower, and
the brilliant sun, dissipating the vapors, dries the surface of the ground and takes away all dampness.
It is hot in the sunlight; but you live perpetually
embowered in shade. In that, the mercury daily
stands square against the point of summer heat, or,
occasionally, a little above it, so that one revels in
fine lilvn;  and if he makes any use of the  mint 
THE WHITE SULPH{UR.
which grows invitingly by every pathside, it is more
as a luxury than a necessity. Sitting under the oaks,
or promenading on the piazza, the summer idler finds
that he can keep cool from one end of the dog days
to the other,-without so much as touching a straw.
This, to some persons, may be rather provoking than
otherwise. But with such pure air to breathe, fanned
by the softest breezes, instead of being whipped by
the winds of the sea-shore bathing place, and nightly
refreshed by sleep beneath a blanket, if you will, but
with-windows wide -open, and disturbed by no worse
serenading than that of the banjo, a man is sufficiently happy without stimulus, or excitements of
any kind. To look out upon the green pastures and
the luxuriant woods-to wind gently up the hilltops,
or stroll by the side of brooks-to watch the neverceasing play of light and shade on the mountains
and in the valleys, and to gaze at the fantastic shapes
of the  s r mer  clouds,  now  drifting in fleeces
through th  sky, now  towering in gorgeous peaks
and ranges  bove the horizon, and, at evening, aglow
with all the prismatic flames which burst from the
apparent disruption of the setting sun-to do all this
is, indeed, to forget the more highly scented cups of
civic dissipation, as well as the rile in the mug of the
world's ordinary toil, and to live in the midst of such
innocent delights as by the poets are fabled to lie
around its infancy.
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CiHAPTER VII.
Through  Virgyinia and  Carolina.
ONCE more out of the mountains, I find myself
among the plantations of Eastern Virginia.
It is a district of country where the soil is often of a
rich yellow, or mulberry color, and brown donkeys
are ploughing it early in February; where zigzag
fences are laid twelve rails high, and not a stake in
them; where hay and corn remain through the winter stacked in the fields; where the forests are strewn
with gigantic trunks left lying as they fell, and the
green foliage is sprinkled over with the white of
large projecting branches  which have been splintered, or twisted off by storm and tempest; where
the houses often look top-heavy, and tumble down,
though supported by strong chimneys of brick or
stone, built on the outside; where the wagons, canvas-covered, are shaped like whale boats, and are
drawn by from four to six mules, with Uncle Tom 
7!UROUGH VIRGINIA AND CAROLINA.   87
on the'back of the nigh leader; where ladies travel
with guitars, and gentlemen with saddle bags, negroes in white woollen blankets, and negresses in
pink ribbons; where, emerging from the pine woods,
young misses enter the train, robed in shawls bought
at Berlin for not less money than would suffice to
purchase a small negro, and the young gentlemen
who accompany them, sprawl over two seats in every
variety of attitude, excepting that of the Apollo
Belvidere; where the traveller starts on his journey
by rail at four o'clock in the morning, and stops a
whole hour at seven for breakfast; where, driven to
the hotel in nothing less than a'bus and four, he is
received by a cloud of negroes, the chambermaids
being superb in white aprons, and variegated turbans, and all anxious to do something for "Missis;"
while the boys, met at every turn, are either in danger of running down  "'Massa," or are sure, when
wanted, to be running away from him; now making
their obeisance halfway down to the floor, and the
next moment laughing behind his back until mouth
and ears meet; most of them oiled in the joints to
such a degree as scarcely to be able to stand up, and
the rest threatening to tumble down from stupidity,
and sleepy-headedness.
I passed through one, and but one neat village
(that of A-)  on my way from the. mountains to 
88      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
Richmond. The latter is a thrifty town, rather pic.
turesquely placed on hill and river side; and is made
pleasant in winter by the magnolia, the arbor vitea,
and various evergreens. Here I went to see Crawford's equestrian statue of Washington. The figures
of Henry and Jefferson, which stand on the base of
the monument, are admirably done; the former ex.
hibiting the impassioned orator in full action, and
contrasting pleasantly with the more quiet, thoughtful attitude of the writer of the Declaration of Independence. But on seeing the figure of Washington,
my first impression was that this modest, great man,
if he could have been consulted about the matter,
would much have preferred, instead of being elevated so high in the air, to stand more nearly on a
level with the illustrious patriots below. On beholding him at that awkward height, the spectator hardly
feels that he is ill the presence of the father of his
country; for the expression of the countenance is
lost in midheaven. Whoever approaches the monument near enough to get a good view of the statues
at the base, on looking up to that above, sees little
else than the under side of the immense horse's
belly. There may be good cause, to be sure, for
placing an equestrian statue in an elevated position,
as on the pediment of a temple, or on a natural eminence; but as this monument stands on high ground, 
THROUGH VIRGINIA AND CAROLINA.  89
where it can easily be seen at a distance, there seems
to be no good reason for erecting so lofty a pedestal.
The Washington in the State House, close at
hand, by IHoudon, interested me more, notwithstanding its French strut, and lack of idealization. For,
with these exceptions, it is the great man himself left
behind in marble, and dressed, and looking as he
actually did when in full life. Indeed, the figure of
Washington is itself so sublime, that all attempts of
art to sublimate it have hitherto not been successful.
On leaving Richmond, the traveller going South
will do well to save his appetite until his arrival at
Wilmington, where I can safely promise him, at least,
good white Johnny-cake. Here it was, on the ninth
of February, that I tasted my first shad of the sea.
son, making no bones of it. Throughout the dinner
a black boy stood behind my chair, with his hands
resting on the back of it; and, on receiving my
orders, started suddenly to my side, as if waked out
of a reverie. Then, shooting off headlong on my
errand, and headlong returning, he again relapsed
into his previous state of semi-somnolency, and hung
suspended from the chair-back. The hotel is not
exactly a fit subject for a eulogy; still I rested very
comfortably in it during a day and a night.
Like so many other Southern cities, Wilmington
is a town built on the sands. A seaport, it enjoys a 
90      - TO )DIXIE AND THIE TROPICS.
large and profitable trade-in turpentine, besides doing
a lively little business in fine-cut tobacco, and various
Southern "notions."  It contains a few moderately
well-looking houses, scattered about among a great
many half-painted  and  dilapidated  ones.   I saw
scarcely a wall without a brick loose, or a fence
without a board off, or any work in cement that had
not a crack in it.  The yards in front of the houses,
hlowever, were pleasant with evergreens, and climbing plants; and the coming spring had here scattered in advance the first camellias, hyacinths, and
daffodils.
The rail from Richmond to Charleston took me
through a country exhibiting fewer marks of civilization than I had anticipated. To the very end
of the journey, my  surprise was  repeatedly  excited at passing through forests beyond forests, interspersed only by more  or less extensive clearings. Even in these, many of the corn and cotton
fields were pretty well filled with stumps and the
stems of broken, half-decayed trees, left standing by
the axe and the firebrand.  The two  Carolinas I
found as rough as Ohio; while Illinois, with its cultivated prairies, might almost pass for an old country
in comparison with them.  Nearly the whole stretch
of these Southern pine woods is as level, too, as any
prairie; and many districts, in consequence of recent
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THROUGH -VIRGIN.IA AND CAROLINA.   91
heavy rains, were little better than a succession of
dismal swamps.   Even the noble pines themselves,
tall, slender, and tapering as were their stems, and
sometimes beautifully spreading their tops, like the
stone pines of Italy, yet being disfigured by the axe
for the sake of their sap, which is manufactured into
turpentine, present such conspicuous scars as to make
the otherwise fair woods look ghastly enough to be
the haunts of ghosts.
Indeed, the poor whites who mostly inhabit these
openings in the forests are scarcely less haggard than
sprites. They would be equally pale, also, but that
they are so yellow. Theirs is the genuine fever-andague complexion, more or less modified in this rainy
season by the color of the mud wherein they live,
and move, and have their being. Fortunately, their
hovels are made of logs instead of clay; otherwise
these, too, would gradually be dissolved in water.
The dress of these natives of the woods was, certainly, when I saw it, in a great many instances fast
coming to nought. At best, it was coarse and neglected; while the general aspect of life was low and
almost brutish.
At the end of two days of travelling, it was
truly a relief to emerge from these pine-grown regions, and see, on approaching the suburbs of
Charleston, a greater variety of forest trees.  The 
92        TO DIXIE AND  THE TROPICS.
oaks now  preponderated, their boughs hung with
gray moss and their trunks often draped with climbing evergreens. In low places, the maples were
hanging out their crimson buds and fringes. At the
same time, the sun, breaking through the heavy
clouds which had for several days obscured the heavens, poured a flood of golden light over the tender
foliage, over the city, and the bay; and, genially
warming the air, gave promise that I was here to
meet the spring thus far advanced on its way northward from the equator and the shores of the Caribbean.
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CIA P TER VIII.
Charleston.
IRST of all I went to the races. For I had
1begun to hear the February races in Charleston talked of as far north as Washington, and had
been told much of the fine horses, much of the beautiful women, who, in grande toilette, grace these festive occasions.  Unfortunately, the twelfth of February brought with it gentle showers of rain; but,
heavy as was the course, I had rarely seen in the
States better running. The horses were ridden by
slips of black boys, whom, at first sight, I thought
scarcely equal to the task, but who, in the end,
proved themselves to be born Jehus.  Like the
steeds, they must have been bred specially for the
race course. I forget, at this moment, what the time
made was; but the horses were so well matched as
to come in almost neck and neck.
As to the ladies, they were not to be cheated out
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of their holiday by the rain. They were there in
full feather; in ermine and point lace; in light brocades and cashmeres of India. They were there in
the latest nouveautes; gay with flowers and grace.
ful with fringes, as well as ill perfect little loves of
parasols, and fans fluttering with coquetry. One or
two dowagers sported their diamonds  and jewels
more appropriate for the ballroom. Nearly all, as it
seemed to me, were rather over-dressed for the occasion; though, as it is the fashion of the Charlestonians to put on new bonnets for the February
races, as the Philadelphians do at Easter, perhaps the
temptation to make too much of the toilet at this
time might well be irresistible. Still, bright colors
do not harmonize with dark skies; the reason why
they are always so becoming in the tierras calientes of
Spain and Italy being because the air there is full of
resplendent light, and so many of nature's tints are
high-toned. But at the Charleston race course, nothing was gorgeous save the silks and ribbons; for,
while heavens of lead overhunig an earth scarcely yet
green, even the cheeks of the fair were pale, and
their eyes lacked the lustre of the south of Europe.
They were, however, sufficiently pretty and highbred.
The lords of this part of creation, likewise, were
tall and fine-looking; though it struck me that their
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CHARLESTON.
easy morning costumes, if adapted to the occasion,
were not quite in harmony with the elaborate toilets
of the sex. Certain it is, that the tip-top beaux were
generally dressed in overcoats, sacks, raglans, sticks,
and umbrellas.  I'could but think, also, that many
of them carried a trifle too much  weight in the
watch chain, and, in some instances, selected their
waistcoats of a crimson slightly too emphatic for the
black of their pantaloons.   But, on the whole, the
crowd of clubmen were well attired; and I did not
see among them a single specimen of the black-satinvest gentry.
For the rest, considering that ladies came to the
race in full dress, I was a little' surprised at seeing
that the floor of the saloon wherein they were assembled was, in places, wet with tobacco juice, and
sprinkled with nutshells. Lads, whose bringing up
in the best families of the town should have taught
them better, threw the shells  on the floor as unceremoniously- as if they had been in a beer garden, or a
cockpit. Even a lady arrayed in ermine, and deep
frills of Chantilly lace, who was holding a court, at
the moment, consisting of four gentlemen, all in
waxed mustaches, suffered two out of the four to
stand in her presence munching peanuts.
It may be added, that, with few exceptions, the
elegantly arrayed ladies present on this- occasion to
95 
96       TO DIXIE ANI.D THE TROPICS.
witness the running, and receive the admiration of
the handsome members of the Jockey Club, were
unmarried; and that the presence of a somewhat
larger number of matrons would have imparted a
little more dignity to the festivity, without detracting too much from its grace.
To return to town. My first impressions of
Charleston were  extremely agreeable.   It was  a
pleasant thing to find an American city containing
so many memorials of the times colonial, and not
wearing the appearance of having been all built yesterday. The atmosphere, charged with an unusual
dampness in consequence of the low position of the
town on coast and river bank, helps materially to
deepen the marks of years; soon discoloring the
paint upon the houses and facilitating the progress
of the green moss, which here is ever creeping over
the northern side of roofs and walls. The whole
town looks picturesquely dingy, and the greater number of buildings have assumed something of the appearance of European antiquity. The heavy brick
walls and the high gateways are such as one sees
in London or Paris.  Many front doors and piazzas
had been wrought after the graceful models brought
from England in the old colonial period.  The verandas, story above story, and generally looking toward
the south, or the sea, form another pleasant feature 
CHARLESTOY.
in the prevailing style of building. Nor less attrac tive are the gardens and courtyards invariably at tached to the best houses, where, in winter, the
hedges are green with pitosporum and the dwarf
orange; and where blow the first fragrant violets
and daffodils of spring.  Here, in February, I beheld
with delight the open rose, and camellias so numerous as to redden the ground they fell upon; also, the
wild orange bursting with white buds, and the peach
tree in full blossom, as well as the humble strawberry
at its foot. Stopping at one of these lofty gateways,
and looking through the quaint, old-fashioned gratings, I could not help repeating the lines of Goethe
"Ein sanftcr Wind vom blauen Hiinmel weht,
Die Myrte still und hoch der Lorber steht."
These charming gardens, in connection with the
piazzas resting on ornamental pillars, make the whole
town graceful. One sits, in the morning, in these
open chambers, inhaling the refireshing air from the
sea, its perfume mingled with that of the flowers
below; and, at midday, closing the Venetian shutters to exclude the sun, he rests in grateful shade.
Here, too, throughout the longer portion of the year,
may be spread, at evening, the tea table.; while the
heavens still glow with the purple -and amber of the
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97 
98       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
sunset. And here lingers the family until the bells
from the tower of St. Michael's, sweetly ringing
their silver chimes through the calm, starry air, announce, at last, the hour of repose.
Many invalids from the North, delighted with
these Southern balconies and these melodious evening bells, with this soft air and genial sunshine, with
the lovely promenade of the ever grass-green Battery, and with the pleasing prospect of the bay,
never the same with its coming and going ships, are
tempted to linger here the winter through, nor go
farther southward in their search for health or pleas.
ure. But the climate of Charleston, if soft-soft,
even, as that of Rome-is damp, and exceedingly
variable. The consumptive invalid, therefore, should
never daily long with these sea breezes, nor stay to
pluck these flowers. He should proceed onward as
far as St. Augustine, or inland to the dry, sandy hill
country.
In winter, many of the wealthy South Carolinian
planters come to Charleston to enjoy the gay season
of February; and a few spend several months here
for the sake of the greater advantages in educating
their children. But all come to town with less pa rade than did the grand seigneurs of the generation
preceding. For a quarter of a century, the number
of coaches and four has been gradually diminishing.
i 
CHARLESTO.
Fewer outriders herald the planter's advance.  The
family carriage has grown a little rickety, and the
worse for wear; though the horses are still well
blooded, and Samibo holds the reins with cheeks as
full, and shoulders as widely spreading.   Compara tively few are the masters who nowadays pass
through the country with a retinue of from fifteen to
twenty servants; who, at a wedding, or other festive
occasion, open wide their doors to all comers, enter taining troops of friends, twoscore -and more, with
for every one a couch, as well as for every one a
month's welcome. Fiddling, indeed, has not died
out; and Pompey still draws his bow, and beats his
banjo with as much ardor as in the days of yore.
At the merry-makings, there is dancing every night
in the parlor, as well as plenty of giggling and roaring in the kitchen. Five-and-twenty varieties of corn
cake may be served at breakfast; the pot of hominy,
like the widow's cruse, is inexhaustible; the bacon
makes the table groan; though certainly the number
of pipes of wine annually laid downi is getting every
year less; nor do I believe there can be many nabobs
left, who, in purchasing their supplies in town at the
beginning of the season, do not fail to include a
hogshead of castor oil for their little negroes.
The February balls in Charleston are scarcely less
known to fame than the races.  The most select and
99 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
fashionable are those of the Saint Cecilia, and they
have been given here from times running back past
the memory of all the dancers now living. Only the
gentry and the more favored strangers are admitted.
They go at ten o'clock, and stay until three.  The
attendance, however, is principally confined to the
younger portion of the fashionable community, who,
before setting off for the dance, see the mammas and
papas comfortably to bed. I observed that even the
young married ladies attracted but little attention
from the beaux; and, in fact, I was repeatedly told,
that whenever a bride was led to the altar, she, afterward, went in society, as a matter of course, to the
wall. Even the bride, who comes from other parts
of the country to find in this hospitable city a home,
runs imminent risk of receiving but few marks of
courtesy from any gentleman not married. She may
be beautiful, accomplished, and elegantly dressed;
but the beaux will look at her, if they deign to look
at her at all, with blank, mute admiration.  This, in
a city so famed as Charleston is for gallantry of man ners, struck me as a little singular. I saw many fair
young ladies among the dancers, and the prevailing
style of toilet was characterized by simplicity as well
as elegance. Some waltzing, also, I noticed, as grace  ful as that which may be seen in the countries where
the waltz is at home.  Of flowers, however, whether
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_ 4 
CHARLESTON.
as an ornament for the person, or the apartments,
there were quite too few; and it seemed as though
the profusion with which nature, in the more genial
seasons of the year, furnishes these decorations, had
led to the neglect of their cultivation by artificial
means in winter.
From the presence of two races, the streets of
Charleston have a pepper-and-salt aspect. The blacks
are almost as numerous as the whites, but are generally of smaller stature. I saw very few slaves,
either male or female, who were of large size; still
fewer who were good-looking. As an exception,
however, in the matter of size, I noticed one portly
dame striding down the street in broad-brimmned hat,
and staff, who appropriated to her own use nearly the
whole of the sidewalk, and swaggered with an importance which plainly marked her as having authority in the kitchen of one of the proudest families of
Charleston. On Sunday, the negroes I saw airing
themselves on their way to church appeared to good
advantage, being respectful in manners, and, for the
most part, becomingly plain in dress.  The  aged
dames were in turbans containing only a few modest
stripes, though  worn  pretty high.  The younger
damsels showed, of course, more love for dressing
like white folks.  One dainty mriss, with large, liquid
eyes, and the deep red breaking through her colored
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TO I)IAIE AND  THE TROPICS.
cheek, like the vermilion streaming through dark
clouds that lie athwart the sunset, made herself gay
in a French cashmere; another displayed her jaunty
modesty in Canton crape; while the principal colored
belle of the promenade held up her rich black silk to
exhibit an elaborately embroidered petticoat. The
other sex were decently clad, and scarcely in a single
instance that came under my observation, grotesquely.
They showed, occasionally, a little red in their cravats-sometimes a little buff. But not even on the
coach box did Pompey go much beyond a brass
buckle ill his hat, and purple plush in his waistcoat.
On the whole, therefore, the colored palmetto gentry
seemed to me to have learned demureness from their
betters; though there was, perhaps, as much grinning and giggling as was decent on a Sunday.
But the next day being a half holiday, in consequence of the Governor's review, I was surprised at
seeing crowds of nurses in bandanna turbans, and
sable urchins in caps so gay as to need nothing but
belles to. set them all ringing. The sunny afternoon
air was quite filled with the kites of these small black.
boys. Their loud, tumultuous laughter mingled
pleasantly with the music of drum, and fife, and bagpipe; while, by nightfall, the circles of all eyes had
grown visibly larger from gazing at the plumes and
glitter of the militiamen. With special pleasure I
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CHARLESTON.
remember the sight, on that afternoon, of a pair of
brats about the size of Murillo's beggar boys, and as
much like them as blacks can be like Spaniards.
They occupied the same position, also, against a
sunny wall, and were in the same need of having
their heads combed; the one being happily intent on
smoking a broken clay pipe, and the other gazing at
vacancy with a degree of tranquil animal satisfaction
which distended his half-shining, half-unwashed skin
wellnigh to cracking.
It was but a sorry entertainment to visit the slave
market; yet, one fine morning, attracted by the auctioneer's flag, I dropped in. There was but one
small lot on the block, evidently a badly damaged
lot of merchandise; and I did not hear a single bid
for them. One old woman, however, by trade a
cook, was put up for sale separately. She was, at the
time, half seas over, and might very likely have been
thus exposed by her master for the sake of frightening her into better behavior. But, if such had been
the purpose, the failure of the experiment was complete; for, when she saw that not a single bid was
made for such a sinner, she exclaimed, with a pro.
digiously broad leer of satisfaction, "Nobody want
dis ole nigger? Well, I goes back to massa."
For piety and church-going the negroes are as
remarkable as the Char]estonians themselves. They
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TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
like to sing psalms and to deliver to each other the
solemn word of exhortation. Their labor in prayer.
resembles the wrestling of Jacob with the angel;
though, in this exercise, they sometimes get themselves on the hip. Their masters and mistresses,
however, I am sorry to say, are in the habit of
making the observation, that a negro's Sunday faith
has but a loose. connection with his week-day conduct.  Moved, myself, one Sunday evening, to sit
under colored preaching, I accepted the invitation of
a friend to visit one of the conventicles attended exclusively by negroes.   On entering the large and
commodious building, we were politely shown up the
broad aisle to a seat directly in fiont of the pulpit, it
being the chief seat in the synagogue, and one expressly reserved  for white folks.   Thereupon the
wink was tipped to the sable sexton, who was made
to understand that, inasmuch as I was a distinguished gentleman from New  York city, the performers in Divine service would be expected to do
their best. At length, after a tolerably long pause
of preparation, a venerable negro was called up by
the clergyman to open the service with prayer.  This
he did with not a little solemnity, not forgetting, at
the close of the exercise, to intercede expressly in
behalf of the "gemman present from York."  The
prayer ended, a devout old negro, called Pete, imme
104
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CIIARLESTON.
diately struck up the hymn beginning, "I'm bound
for de kingdom." But old Pete had, apparently, forgotten, in his zeal, the presence of the eminent gentleman from New York, and had to be snubbed by
the sexton.
"Stop dat, you nigger!" quickly exclaimed the
official, looking, at the same time, sharply at the
singer's face, and then, after a pause, pointing upward, he called out, authoritatively:
"Choir, sing' Vital spark.'"
The singing was not bad; the tone of voice
being pure, and the chief deficiency consisting in the
lack of expression. All the other exercises, likewise,
were done decently and in order.
From the negro, whether under the sounding
board of the conventicle, or the hammer of the auctioneer, to Powers, the sculptor, may seem a pretty
long stride; but the statue of Mr. Calhoun, by this
great American bust maker, stands in the old State
House, at but a short distance from either the meeting house, or the slave market. With a disposition
to speak well of native art, I cannot, however, attribute to this statue of the distinguished Carolinian any
high degree of merit beyond that of possessing a
good head. Unfortunately, the marble, too, has the
fault of being the least bit smutty at the tip of the
nose, and suggests the homely idea of snuff-taking.
5*
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l06      TO DIAXIE AND THE TROPICS.
The body is encumbered by the drapery, which,
though wrought with very great pains, seems to be
heavy with the water of the wet garments after
which it-must have been modelled. The three folds
on the left shoulder are particularly stiff and monotonous. The figure, represented as stepping forward,
is impeded, in so doing, by two supports, one on
either side. - The left arm is elevated awkwardly, to
hold a scroll bearing an inscription, which, at a little
distance, looks as though it were done in red chalk,
and produces rather a burlesque effect than otherwise.  But the weakest points in the statue are the
hands and arms which look still weaker when contrasted with the remarkable strength and boldness
of the head.  It was a pity, indeed, to impair the
effect of so excellent a bust by adding a body to it.
Before leaving Charleston, I- did not fail to take a
look at its environs. On a bright, sunny afternoon,
the soft southwest wind gently blowing, I was
driven out by a friend to his farm, situated a few
miles out of town.  The rather quiet landscape was
made attractive by numerous liveoaks, with sturdy,
broadly spreading branches, by tall, dark-leafed
magnolias, and by the graceful wild oranges, all
being evergreens. Some of these trees were draped
with grapevines climbing to their summits; and the
hedges were green with the Cherokee rose, and the
I, 
CHARLESTON.
yellow jessamine. In a stroll through the gardens of
a farmhouse, I gathered a nosegay of fragrant violets, snowdrops, jonquils, and Christmas berries,
which, brought home, filled my apartment for hours
with a sweet, summer perfume.
But the most pleasing feature of the scenery
which came within my observation, on this excursion, was an avenue, or, rather, a couple of avenues,
of liveoaks of unusual size and beauty.  The trees
being fully grown, the crooked branches stretched
themselves high in the air, numerous as the masts in
the crowded seaport, and strong enough to supply
the joints and knees of the proudest ships of war.
They stretched high overhead, and apparently halfway to heaven, until gradually lost in the tapering
twigs, and evergreen leaves, and gracefully pendent
mosses. The stems had the strength of the columns
of some great temple in Thebes or Palmyra. And
yet, I was told that these monarchs of the plain had
scarcely yet attained their threescore years and ten.
When the old men of Charleston were in their cradles, these oaks were tiny acorns, such as I trod under
foot as I walked thoughtfully in the vast, checkered
shade of these green avenues.   So vigorous and
rapid is the growth of vegetable forms in this clime
of the sun.
On returning from the country, I drove through
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108      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the Mount Auburn of Charleston, called, from the
beautiful trees interspersed through it, the Magnolia
Cemetery. But, entertaining always a decided disposition to keep out of places of this sort as long as
may be, I was scarcely in the mood to do justice to
this promenade among the graves.   As it was, the
situation seemed to me little better than a collection
of low sandhills, the monotony of which was varied,
after the manner of the Chinese, by a few pools of
standing water.   The principal monuments,  as is
generally the case in cemeteries, had a look of more
or less vain ostentation about them; their proportions being  rarely good, and  the carving  being
almost always tawdry. The simplest forms, and
lines of ornament, certainly, sympathize best with
heartfelt grief; and we generally raise the monument
to ourselves, rather than to the dead, whenever we
overdo it. Some new tombs in the Egyptian style
were pointed out to me as particularly "nice;" one
of them having a glass door which allowed all curi.
ous persons to look in, and see the coffins.   But,
thinking the sight could not possibly prove entertaining, I drove out of the grounds at as fast a walk as
the regulations of the place would admit of.
Returning to town, we passed along the Battery,
the principal promenade of the Charlestonians, and a
truly beautiful one.  Two rivers, the Cooper and the 
CIIARLESTON. 
Ashley, flow past it into the bay, which here spreads
out to view a pleasant expanse of waters. Almost
entirely landlocked, the Palmetto Islands bound it on
the south; to the eastward project into the water
the two salient points of Forts Sumter and Moultrie;
while in the west, when I first saw it, lay diffused
over all the beautiful tints of the sunset. And, night
after night, as I returned to the Battery at that hour,
the sky was ever aglow with the same hues of purple
and salmon color, of saffron, rose, and green. On
the first evening, too, the full moon, rising above
the eastern horizon, scattered innumerable sparkling
points of light in a line across the dancing waves,
laying a necklace of diamonds on the bosom of the
bay. A little later in the year, all the fashion of
Charleston will be met, at the hour of twilight,
promenading on this smoothly laid sea wall. Nightly
the cool breeze from the water fans them, and refreshes their languid spirits, when  May-day introduces the season of hot weather. And hence has
grown up the proverb, that the Charlestonians live
but during two months of the year-in February, for
the sake of the races, and in Mlay, for that of the
promenade upon the Battery.
109. 
CHAP TERP IX.
ITH  pleasant regrets I took my  leave of
Charleston, and, passing the long Palmetto
Islands, saluted once more the open, broad Atlantic.
As the sun came up higher, its rays, agreeably tempered by a slight haze ill the air, made for us a summer sea in February. And such the sea remained
the livelong day; a soft southwest breeze just raising
a ripple over the azure expanse, and the bosom of
the ocean only so much heaving as when it is most
at rest. It was but mere pastime for the white seagulls to follow us on lazily flapping wings; often
resting poised in the air, now dipping, for a moment,
in the ship's white wake of foam, and then alighting
gracefully upon their watery nests, to be rocked
asleep by the gently rolling waves, as from the
branches of trees the birds' nests hang swinging in
the summer winds. The whole day long not a sail
Savannah.
il 
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SA VA NNA H.
was to be seen, making the ocean seem like an idler
keeping holiday; and, at nightfall, our steamer
brought us to land in the haven where we would
be-that of Savannah.
Comparisons are proverbially odious; and any
one that might be instituted between two such rival
cities as Savannah and Charleston, would not be
agreeable to the inhabitants of either of them.
These two towns are well known to be antipodes in
taste and opinion; whatever is most applauded by
the one, being held in great disrespect by the other.
The Charlestonians think well of their city on account of its fine old baronial mansions, and pride
themselves upon the length of pedigree which can
be shown by the families residing in them.   But
they of Savannah, who live in houses built in the
newer style of architecture, and worship in church
edifices the origin of which hardly dates so far back
as the American Revolution, do not consider themselves upstarts, for all that. They put the "Pulaski"
against the "Mills House;" Bull street against the
Charleston Battery; Bonaventure and Thunderbolt
road against the Magnolia Cemetery and the plank
turnpike; their park of pines against the one palmetto; and the muddy waters of the Savannah, and
the town pumps, against the bay of Charleston, its
forts and islands. It is a very great pity that there
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112       -0 D)IXIE AND  TIlE TROPICS.
should be this variance of taste between neighbors;
but still I should hardly undertake to decide  the
large number of questions in dispute between the
two parties, unless I were officially requested to do
so by the town authorities, and" were tendered my
fees. I mnay, however, be allowed to say, that it
happened to me, on more than one occasion, to hear
residents of Savannah boasting of being the fifth or
sixth in descent from some of the old, pre-revolutionary aristocrats of the more northerly metropolis. It
is acknowledged, moreover, by the Savannese, that
Georgia is a border land-a State of transition between the new Southwest, with its population of
thrifty but recently-born cotton and sugar lords, and
Carolina, settled so many generations earlier by the
cavaliers of England.   I speak, of course, of the
southern Carolina; for, the difference in character
between this and the other twin sister, has been
strongly marked from its first settlement down to the
present times. Whenever the Charlestonian talks of
Carolina, it is of his Carolina; and in case of your
alluding to the other, he shrugs his shoulders, and
reminds you that that State was originally a colony
of hard-fisted, bull-headed Scotchinen.
But, all invidious comparisons aside, Savannah is
a pretty town, half city, half village, and well deserves its graceful name.  Beautiful shade trees have
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SA VA NNA H.
been planted in the streets, most of which are wide
and straight, having originally been laid out, as it
would appear, by line and compass. There are not
crooked ones enough to give even a little variety to
the monotonous right angles. Still, it is pleasant, in
this early season of the year, when the leaves are
new, and the heat of the approaching sun begins to
assert its great power, to take one's promenade in
checkered shade. For this exercise, the street of
streets is Bull street.   Here reside many of the
opulent families, and here walks all the fashion.
Through this thoroughfare, also, roll the pleasant
carriages, if a carriage can be said to roll in sand;
and the young bloods canter the horses, which, a few
degrees farther north, would be trained to trot.
At intervals, along this Corso, there are pretty
green squares, likewise decorated with shade trees;
and in the centre of each one, instead of a fountain,
stands a tall wooden pump. Sufficiently conspicuous
in itself, this useful ornament was made more so
from the circumstance that, whenever I happened to
be passing, there rarely failed to stand a negro or
two, working away at the handles so lazily that the
question might be raised, whether it were he that
was working the pump, or the pump that was working him.
But continue your promenade to the end of Bull
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114      TO.DIXIE AND ITE TROPICS.
street, and there you shall see the city park.  It is an
enclosure of a few acres, shaded by taU, resinous
pines, which cast upon the green turf beneath them
a pleasing shade. The place is laid out with much
simplicity in paths, half sand, half shell; but you
have permission, likewise to walk, or sit upon the
grass and the wooden benches, and to admire the
neat stone fountain, which, situated in the centre of
the grove, sends a few playful though feeble streams
out of the horns of sundry Tritons and sea gods. It
is a pretty work of art enough, except that the water
nymph, standing on the summit, has her left hip
badly out of joint; as one may more distinctly see
on going behind her. It is rather a pity, too, that
the artist's fancy, after bringing to birth the marine
divinities which grace the lower part of the fountain, should have so completely exhausted itself on
reaching the principal basin, where, in utter lack of
any mermaids, or lions' heads, or other artistic conceit, the water is left to run out of plain, straight
pipes, no more ornamental than the town pumps.
However, it is a nice little fountain; and, what with
the well-dressed ladies and gentlemen who nightly
come out to look at it, and the numerous children
joyously romping under the trees, and the small
babies that are carted out there to get their airing,
brings pleasantly to the mind of the traveller the
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many beautiful fountains and gardens of the old
countries.
On your way both to and from the park, you
meet a considerable number of Northern invalids.
For this city, situated in a plain of pure silex, has
the advantage of a dryer climate than that to be
found in any other of the great towns of the South.
It cannot, however, be called a dry air, except by
comparison; nor is it particularly pure or invigorating. Vexed by few high winds, indeed, the winters
are mild, and much more favorable, no doubt, to certain kinds of valetudinarianism than the rigorous
ones of New England. Certain it is, that the habit
of invalids to come from the North to Savannah is a
long-established one. In such numbers do they congregate here, that, at breakfast at the hotel tables,
one hears on all sides the questions asked, " How did
you sleep last night?" "How is your cough  this
morning?" And in walking the streets, likewise,
the talk overheard is always a good deal about rheumatism and the liniments.
I could more confidently recommend Savannah as
a winter residence for consumptive patients, if the
hotels there were only a little better. The recent
theory of physicians is, that persons afflicted with
pulmonary disease should be kept on a generous,
nutritious diet. But this pleasant remedy is not so
115 
lTO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
easily to be obtained at the public tables in Savani nah. Nor are there any good restaurants; though
something might undoubtedly be done toward im proving his fare, by the patient's getting up early in
the morning, and doing a certain portion of narket ing himself. In that way he might obtain some deli cacies which waiter and cook would be only too
happy, for a valuable consideration, to set before
him. He may also find himself sometimes quartered
in the neighborhood of noisy courtyards; for I remember that, in one upon which opened the windows
of my apartment, there stood a machine for cracking
ice, which, being kept in pretty constant action both
by day and evening, made quite noise enough to
wind up the nerves of any one who had them much
unstrung. And in case this might not suffice, the
addition of the music made by two small darkeys
who were learning the art of drumming, the one by
practising upon an empty cigar box, and the other
upon a cracked tin kettle, surely would.
During the day passed in that apartment, I,
Yankee-liketspent some time in making an estimate
of the expense to which I should be put, in undertaking to have the amount of noise which was produced by the drums and the ice machine, manufactured for my entertainment in any other manner, by
one or more black boys hired expressly for the pur
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pose. But it was so great that I forbear mentioning
it. Should, however, the prescription of whiskey,
with a slight addition of water and sugar, be recomniended, as it was a few years ago by many Southern
practitioners, as a remedy for consumption, the Savannese guest will not have it in his power to complain that his wants in this respect have not been
provided for. Indeed, let the patient travel on any
of the great roads in this part of the country that he
may, the supply of this remedy will not fail him;
for scarcely a railroad train stops anywhere, that one
does not see rudely painted in large letters, over the
door of some shanty more or less well-looking, the
word "Bar-room."
But, against plenty of liquor, the invalid who
visits Savannah must set sandy roads and exorbitant
carriage fees. I know not by what rule it happens,
that horse hire in this city should be so unusually
expensive, unless it be to maintain a certain proportion between the rate of charges and the depth of
the silex one is driven through. Yet let me hasten
to add, that any such little drawbacks to the perfect
satisfaction and happiness of the invalid which I
have here taken the liberty to allude to, will be more
than compensated, no doubt, by the hospitality and
kindness of the people among whom he comes to
take up a temporary residence.  In their cheerful and
117 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
well-appointed houses, such petty deficiencies and
discomforts will be quite forgotten. Besides intelli gent and refined society, he will find, in some of
them, collections of rare and valuable books, as well
as of ancient and costly manuscripts, and of interest ing autographs, the equals of which can be seen in
few American cities, and which will furnish no little
consolation to the stranger in weather not suitable
for promenading in Bull street.
Whoever visits Savannah, drives, of course, out
to Bonaventure. Everybody expects him to take
this cdive, and -he expects to do it himself.  He goes
by the Thunderbolt road as far as the Thunderbolt
road will take him; and then he turns off into a
highway, where the sight of his horses' hoofs and
the felloes of his carriage wheels is immediately lost
in from two to four inches of sand.  Still another
inch of the same being suspended in the air in the
form of dust, it certainly would not be libelling this
road-for the privilege of passing over which a
handsome little toll is collected from the travellerto describe it as a sandy one. However, it leads
through the pleasant pine woods, and has, at the end
of it, in Bonaventure, what might be made, with little
pains and expense, the most imposing place of sepulture to be found in the country.,  The spot is well
known from the descriptions of travellers, the charac.
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teristic feature of it consisting in several ayenues of
evergreen oaks. Planted a hundred or more years
ago, they have now attained very great height, while
from their branches hangs pendent a funereal pall of
gray moss. The groves of the Druids were not dark
with so solemn a gloom. The profoundest silence
reigns in these magnificent and sombre aisles, where
repose the ashes of the dead; broken only by the
moaning of the treetops when the winds sweep over
them, wrestling with the huge gnarled branches, and
making the gray moss wave like mourners' tresses,
strewn with ashes; or more cheerfully broken, in
mild, sunny days, such as that wherein I first visited
it, by the sweet voices of the wood birds, which
build their nests and rear their young in these green,
sylvan retreats. It was, indeed, a sweet, soothing
requiem which these little songsters were singing on
that May morning; one expressive of the tender
sympathy of nature for man, when, at last, he lies
down to sleep on her bosom, and suggestive of a
happy existence after he shall have awaked refreshed by his slumbers.
In returning from the cemetery, we soon came
upon a little garden of flowers, the blowing roses,
fragrant pinks, and glowing verbenas of which made
a pleasing contrast with the gloom of the grand old
woods. From one place to the other was like a step
119 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
from death to life, and produced a most exhilarating
effect upon the spirits.  The gardener gave us flow ers, which, taken in the hand, put the whole party at
once into holiday attire, and made us no longer
thoughtful mourners, but revellers in the midst of
the full life and beauty of nature. So buoyed up
were all our hearts, that, in returning home, we insisted on making a diversion through Lovers' Lane,
in spite of the dust and heat of the way; nor did
even the celebrated but ill-jointed plank road, so
called, over which we finally drove into town, suffice
to finish us.
But the black boy who showed us through the
flower garden I must not forget to mention, simply
for the sake of his name.  It was January!  Can a
more  shocking misnomer  be found anywhere on
record?  If left to make his own selection of a preiiomen, the month which stands in the calendar for
midwinter would, I am sure, have been the last he
would have pitched upon, and must undoubtedly
cause a cold chill to creep down his back every time
he hears his name called. Name a negro aftersa hot
month; calling him after the last one in summer, for
example, Augustus-Augustus Ccesar-and his appellation will be a subject of joy and pride to him as
long as he lives. But it is too cruel to call him
January. I was tempted to ask the poor fellow if
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SA VA NNA H-.
his wife's name were July; but, having compassion
on him, I varied the question, and inquired if he did
not like the hot weather.  He said he did; and, of
his own accord, added: " Dere be nothing so good
for de nigger as to build a big fire in de rice field,
and toast his shins in dog day."
The negroes, by the way, often have very odd
names. The boy at the hotel who waited on me at
table, answered to the name of Plenty: a name
surely good enough so long as there - was plenty of
roast beef and plum pudding to be had for the ask ing; but one involving a pungent sarcasm whenever,
as was sometimes the case, he brought back the
guest's empty plate, with the reply, " Roast beef all
gone, massa!"
However, Plenty and the other boys all waited at
table to the best of their faculties, and never failed
to satisfy me, except when they had partially lost
their heads from mixing their toddy with a stick a
trifle stiffer than it should have been. One day, I
remember, when old Pete was unusually tipsy, he
began with asking whether I would have soup, lobster, or pie; and afterward, when I was quietly
enjoying my coffee, he disturbed my composure by
the inquiry, if massa would not be pleased to be
helped to some " wery nice wegetables!"
But my chamber-boy had a name which pleased
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121 
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me, perhaps, as much as any other, and was certainly
a source of the very greatest satisfaction to himself.
He was a conscientious and most reliable black boy;
but, one evening, before that fact was known to me,
wishing to be awaked at an early hour on the morning following, I called the boy, and, looking doubtingly in his face, put to him the question:
'Now, can you be relied upon to wake me  tomorrow morning at six o'clock?"
Whereupon, gathering all there was of himself
up-for he was very short4egged-and looking at
me with a face of mingled astonishment and indignation, he replied:
"Sir, my name is Chisholm (Chism)!"
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CHAAPTEP X.
A Georgia.Railway.
;;   WFUL  hot, madam," said a gent in the'bus,
__. who  happened to be sitting next to the
lady by my side, as we drove through the streets
of Savannah to the station of the railway to Montgoinery. We were early at the station, it being the
custom of landlords hereabouts to speed the parting
guest, and get him out of the house about an hour in
advance of the time. There was, however, no lack
of laggards, one of whom came to the conductor,
just as the train was about to start, with the request
that he would wait a few minutes, as he had some
cigars coming.  The conductor waited for the cigars.
But, when these had arrived, a lady came running
into the station house, and implored the official to
wait a few minutes for her trunk.
" Oh, my!" she exclaimed, "I must go by the
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train-it is a case of necessity-and the trunk will
be here in a few moments!  Oh, my! oh, my!"
It was absolutely certain, she said, that the trunk
would be brought in a very few minutes; for a man
had just gone over to the other side of the river to
fetch it in a cart. Well, the gallant conductor waited
for the trunk also. But when that had finally appeared, the lady's son, a lad of some five years of
age, took it into his little head that he himself was
not ready to go. Neither the entreaties of papa nor
of mamma could induce him to do anything with his
tiny feet but stamp with them vehemently upon the
platform, while, with a loud voice, he cried out:
"I'm not ready-not ready!  I tell you I won't
go-won't go!"
But his papa insisting on his instantaneous departure, and taking him up in his arms to put him into
the car, the precocious youth, bethinking himself of
one more reason for delay, bellowed forth:
"But mamma's trunk-wait for the trunk!"
The conductor, however, though a little slow at
the setting out, appeared to be fast enough after he
had once got under way. Besides a diamond ring,
and bright gilt buttons in his waistcoat, he wore for
breastpin a miniature copy of a railway engine, and
proved to be a very civil person-fops sometimes
making good conductors. But he gave me a greasy
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A GEORGIA RAIL WI Y.
check, bearing on its unwashed face the printed com mand, "Keep this in sight."  Now I was not myself
of the opinion that such a soiled piece of pasteboard
would be ornamental to my hat ribbon; nor could I
think of parading it, like an order of merit, on my
coat collar.  It seemed to me, that if tickets and
checks of clean paper were sufficiently in harmony
with our democratic institutions, they would be much
preferable.
Fortunately, the small number of passengers in
the train gave to the gentlemen the opportunity-so
gladly improved in this part of the country-of sitting on their backs; for travellers here seem naturally to fall into sprawling attitudes. Before me sat,
or rather lay, quite regardless of the presence of
ladies, a gent in black broadcloth, with both feet
projecting out of the window, his arms thrown back
over his head, and his five-dollar beaver resting on
his stomach. At my side lay another, with legs
crossed, one foot resting on the seat before him, and
the other raised halfway to the carriage roof. A tall
Kentuckian managed actually to extend himself over
three seats; his head resting on one, his back partly
on the next, and partly on his portmanteau, which
had been so arranged as to bridge the interval;
while his legs, extending through the open back of
the second seat, were long enough to bring his feet
125 
126     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
comfortably upon the third.  And-poor fellow!when lie found that he could not sleep in this position
as quietly as he.desired, he went outside, and sat
upon the platform-observing the letter only of the
order which forbade passengers from standing there.
How much I wished Mr. Punch had been present to
take a sketch of the various postures into which these
planters threw themselves! It would have sold ten
thousand copies extra.
The country from Savannah to Montgomery
through which the railroad passes, is, for the most
part, covered with woods. It is, in fact, a wilderness
of woods, with here and there a plantation opening.
Most of the fields being still full of stumps, and trees
killed by girdling, it wears the face of a new country, but recently reached by the pioneers of civilization. In the plantations along the road there were
few buildings to be seen, excepting negro huts made
of logs, and small cottages of one story occupied by
the masters; though, in two or three of. the townsrather pretty and thrifty ones-I noticed a goodly
number of well-built family mansions, and some large
warehouses.
At midday, to vary the monotony of the journey,
the train suddenly came to a full stop in the woods.
This was rather ominous, and at once excited my suspicions that something had gone wrong. Nor was I
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A G.EOR GIA?AIL WAY.   W
kept long in suspense; for very soon the words flew
from car to car, "Freight train off the track!"
And, sure enough, there we were, face to face with
an engine and tender which had been thrown from
the rails, and now stopped the way. And how long
should we be detained? Some said a couple of
hours; others said six. Only one thing, however,
appeared to be known with certainty-namely, that
the engine, with its tender, was to be lifted upon the
rails again by the help of a couple of screws, as
muany big trees cut down and converted into levers,
and the stout arms of a dozen or two of men, the
greater number of whom were negroes. It was a
poor amusement, to be sure, but the best to be had,
to observe how slowly and awkwardly the process of
repairing the damage was carried on. There was one
captain, so called, having the direction of the business; but he had so many lieutenants, every one entertaining an opinion of his own, that in the multitude of counsels there seemed to be not a little folly.
Even some of the passengers had a word to say as to
the best manner of raising this wheel, or of extracting that bolt. Only the negroes appeared not to
know what was to be done.  They looked on with
faces of blank amazement and unconcern; though
they did all the hard work at the levers, and did it
willingly.
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128     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
Fortunately, I had that morning laid in an extraordinary supply of provisions for the journey, as well
as of books and papers; recent experience having
taught me that it was almost as desirable to have a
private larder when travelling in our Southern States,
as it is in journeying through the Castiles of Old
Spain.
And, indeed, what a comfort it is, when wrecked
in the midst of a forest, with no habitations in sight
but two or three negro cabins, and nothing eatable
in these to be had save fried salt pork and cakes of
Indian meal, to have a cold chicken in your basket!
A smoked herring, too; is not bad; nor is a bit of
cheese; nor are a few sweet Hiavana oranges.  And
in such a basket of comforts did I find, that day,
both dinner and supper. The weather was lutxuriously warm, the sun shining through the thick foliage
down among the stems of the trees, and a summer
breeze in March making all the green leaves tremble
and dance for joy.  How pleasant, likewise, it was to
find a spring of clear, cold, bubbling water flowing
fast by the scene of this breakdown! Here we
quenched the thirst of the noontide with cheerful
draughts; and here, as the day wore off, spreading
our white napkins, we made a travellers' picnic in the
woods. Nor, the while we broke our simple bread,
did the tongues of the mocking birds tire in the
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A GEORGIA RAILWAY.
branches overhead; they seeming to be as happy as
the day was long-for so long their singing lasted.
Was it not, then, a piece of good luck to be kept
for six hours in these green woods, with the birds
making  merry over our heads, and the running
waters making merry at our feet? The magnolia,
which spread its branches above the spring, would
hardly be able many days longer to restrain its buds
from bursting.  Here and there, amid the masses of
emerald leaves, the eye was pleased with seeing the
white flowering thorn, itself almost a tree; and, not
far off, the scarcely less high Palmia, brightening the
gloom with its gorgeous pink blossoms. In roaming
uip and down the woods, we saw also various kinds
of parasitical and climbing plants in full bloom,
crimson, blue, and purple. On the surface of pools
floated the water lilies, white and yellow. In fact, a
multitude of rare plants of the Southern clime were
growing on all sides, and nature was everywhere
opening her leaves and buds with the joyful exuberance of the semi-tropical spring.
And, at last, this day of detention had a Inmost
lovely setting. The sun's rays, as he sank below
the horizon, burst through the clouds which obstructed the path of his going down, converting
them now into amber, now into molten gold, and
lastly into purple.   The light had not quite faded
6*
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130       TO D)IXIE AND  TIIE TROPICS.
out of this tapestry of clouds, nor out of the lines
of apple green seen through their openings in the
sky beyond, when the whistle of an approaching
train broke upon the silence of the twilight air, and
announced to us the means of deliverance, and of
speedy transportation to the end of our journey.
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CHAPTTER XI.
-Down the Alabamna.
ALABAMA - a word beautiful both in sound
and signification.   For, when  one of the
Cherokee tribes, overpowered in war by its neighbors, fled for refuge into the great Southwestern wilderness, and, after many long wanderingsr came, at
length, to the waters of this beautiful stream, with
high bluffs and luxuriantly wooded banks, the chieftain of the exhausted tribe of exiles, striking his
spear, in the presence of his warriors, into one of the
headlands of the river, exclaimed, "AlabamaI!"iere we rest!
I cannot say, however, that I rested particularly
well the first night on this river; for the pulsations
sent through every plank and timber of the boat as
the piston opened and shut the valves of the great,
strong heart laboring in the centre of the structure,
gave to my narrow couch a motion a little too much 
132      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
like cradle-rocking. Going down the stream, these
river craft are, indeed, a little more steady and comfortable; but they ascend the river in an agony of
convulsions. But the healthy, clear countenance of
the captain was a pretty good guarantee against our
being blown up; as were also his pantaloons, they
being made in plaits, after the fashion of the Dutch.
It was plain that he was not a fast man. Indeed,
before starting, he waited a quarter of an hour for a
gentleman who had forgotten something to go back
to town for it; and would probably have stopped
anywhere along the river for a good fellow to get a
"drink," had the supply of liquor, by any chance,
given out on board.
The company of passengers was not an interesting one.
"Don't you think, sir, it is dangerous travelling
on so much water?" inquired an Alabama lady,
looking over the side of the steamer, and commencing conversation with me, a perfect stranger.  But
I comforted her with the assurance that the vessel
was both fire and steam proof.
"Came from Montgomery, sir?  Going down the
river, sir?" she continued, piling question upon question in a single breath.
"Going to Mobile, madam," said I.
"To visit your relations, I reckon?"
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DOWNV THE ALABAA[A.
"Yes; to spend a month with my aunt."
"Well," concluded my fair unknown,  "then I
shall see you again."
"Most happy," said I.
At dinner, as ill luck would have it, I was placed
next to a still less agreeable lady, and one who,
strange to say, was a first-class passenger-had her
state room, and wore her cameo. At table she went
straight through everything.  In such quick succession were the dishes which the waiters set before her
devoured, she seemed a travelling gnome or ogress.
Not only did she eat with her knife, but, from time
to time, she looked me in the face with eyes so sharp
and fierce, as to awaken, at last, the fearful suspicion
that she was going to begin on me after having finished her chicken. Did mortal man or woman ever
before empty such loaded plates of pastry, and live?
Upon my word, when I saw her, an hour after diiiner, on the guards of the boat, smoking a long clay
pipe, and spitting right and left over the floor, I was
scarcely so much surprised at the vulgarity of her
manners, as at seeing the woman alive and well after
so much gorging.
It is doing no more than justice to the company,
however, to add, that the boat had its cotton dowager on board. What Southern steamer, in fact,
would have its requisite complement of passengers,
0
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o 134     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
without some one or more of this quality among
them? The great lady wore, as travelling dress, a
rich brown brocade; while her eldest daughter, who
accompanied her, was arrayed in a tissue of roses,
palm leaves, and birds of paradise. The party, it
may well be believed, was the great sight of the
boat; as was the putting them out at their own landing the principal event of the voyage.  Indeed, it was
a very grand affair, this putting of them out; nothing
better of the kind having happened, so far as I know,
since the day when Noah went out of the ark with
all his retinue. For they were put out, the planter
and his wife, his sons and his daughters, his manservants and his maidservants, with their hogsheads,
barrels, kegs, bags, boxes, bundles, kettles, teapots,
saucepans, trunks, bandboxes, umbrellas, and bird
cages.
A valiant trencher woman, it may be added,
almost as valiant as my ogress herself, was this
grand dowager; and repeatedly did she strike her
fork into the platter of fried oysters set at the head
of the table before the captain. But, fortunately,
the dish so energetically attacked by the lady in brocade was too enormous in size to suffer much from
her depredations. It held a good half bushel. Still,
the extraordinary rapidity with which all these
bivalves were distributed, would have surprised any
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DO  WVN THE ALABAMfA.
one not accustomed to the fast manners of steamboat
tables. For the waiters came for them in a perfect
furore, with arms outstretched, and in almost as copious a perspiration as if they were running for a
wager over a Magnolia race course. This set of
boys had evidently been trained to rapid movement
as thoroughly as any Zouaves or Turcos.
"Coffee, or tea, massa?" inquired of me one of
them, in a tone of voice so quick and decided it
seemed as if my everlasting destiny depended on the
answer.
"Sugar, massa?" he said again, setting the bowl
down with an emphasis which made every separate
lump in it rattle.
And the fury of the waiters seemed to set on
fire the guests; for, as fast as the former hurried up
the cakes, so fast the latter hurried them down. The
one, as they ran to and fro, tumbled over each other;
and the other tumbled no less facetiously into the
hot biscuits, the muffins, and the scratch-backs. The
meal presented the appearance of an agony-yet
short in duration, all over in fifteen minutes.
On the whole, it is my opinion that the only
thing on this river worth coming a thousand miles to
see, is its wild woods. The traveller through these
solitary regions is, indeed, alone with nature; for if
the cotton planter cultivates here,and there a few
135 
TO DIXIE AL)VD THE TROPICS.
broad fields, living himself in a small white mansion
house, surrounded by slave cabins, whitewashed or
brown with their natural logs; or if the poor white
clears up a rod or two of the river bank, space
enough to contain a couple of shanties wherein to
lodge wife and children, a cow, a pig, and a donkey;
or if, on some bluff a few feet out of water, there are
to be seen a half dozen smokes rising above the tops
of the trees, and indicating the existence of what is
here called, by courtesy, a town, or city, still these
few scattered tokens of the presence of man do
scarcely more than render the solitude of nature still
more impressive. Man is here a new comer, and
looks  almost  like an  intruder.   Civilization'has
wrought on these rude banks none of her great triLmphs; Time has left none of his consecrated, crumbling memorials; Art has raised no towers, no columns, no spires. The cotton bale is the most significant work of man's genius; and, excepting the
dilapidated log cabins on the banks, the only ruins
washed by the turbid waters of this great river, are
the broken trees and driftwood which float down on
its surface. But the wild, semi-primitive forest, seen
on approaching Mobile, is, indeed, a delight to the
eyes. What a perfect wilderness of verdure of
every different shade, with the white and purple of
the stems of trees intermiingled, it is! IHow light
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and delicate the green in the oaks and cottonwoods,
and how dark in the magnolias and cypresses! Even
in this spring season, too, when every leaf is tender,
there are soft hues in the foliage approaching nigh
to browns and yellows; while out of the crowded
thickets many a shrub hangs its early flowers of
white, or pink, or blue.
Moreover, while surveying this pleasing scenery,
the traveller enjoys the very great advantage of
being on board a boat provided, not, indeed, with a
band of music, but with a steam piano.  This the
engineer plays upon whenever he happens to be in
the mood musical. Generally, on going from town,
he gives a merry waltz; and on returning, if in advance of his rivals, he entertains the expectant crowd
on the wharf with a far-sounding march of triumph.
Occasionally, too, he will turn off a jig, or negro
melody, at the stopping places along the river, just
to wake up Sambo, and tickle the heels of the small
negroes. And this music is entirely gratuitous, no
charge being made for it in your bills, nor any hat
handed around after it.
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CHAPTER XII.
Xo bile.
"    T is pleasant to see the world one lives in,"
said I to my wife, one sunny morning, after
having breakfasted at the Battle House, in MlIobile.
The meal, indeed, had been an uncommonly good one
-good toast, good chops, potatoes shaved thin, done
crisp.  Even the tea was not bad, taking into account
that it was Southern tea; and the waiter was civil,
remarkably civil, for an Irish waiter in a "crack"
hotel.
But, by the way, can anybody tell why, in a country so full of good-looking black boys, born expressly
to serve tables, and needing nothing but the uniform
of a white jacket to make the ugliest of them look
respectable, why the guests in so many public houses
in this part of the Union should be waited upon by
unwashed and insolent Irishmen or Germans? The
colored waiter's toilet is always made-made by na
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MOBILE.
ture. As his face does not show dirt, it is to be presumed that it is always washed. HIis hair needs no
pomatum; and, dressed at birth, no barber could
possibly improve its natural frizzle.  The Irish head,
on the contrary, is very apt to look like a haystack;
or, if greased, is sure to show the candle. By nature,
Patrick's face is unwashed, and no amount of scrubbing will do more than merely polish its inherent
tinge of uncleanliness. His elbows, too, are always
coming through his coat; he is ever outgrowing his
pantaloons; and do what you will, put him in plush
and gold lace even, he will still look the ditch digger.
However, the lad James, who brought up my
breakfast that morning, was certainly an exceptional
Irishman. He was tolerably clean, and sufficiently
instructed-a very proper, well-behaved lad, who,
during my residence in the inn, did not a little to
preserve unruffled the placidity of my disposition,
promoting my moral as well as physical well-being.
And think how annoying to a guest a waiter has it in
his power to be, when he is bent on sulking; when
he is determined to do nothing as it ought to be
done; when he will do but one thing at a time, and
is forever in doing that; when he says there is no
more of this, and 1no more of that to be had; orwhich is about as bad-when he sets before you too
much of everything.
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140      TO 0IXIE AND THE  TROPICS.
But James, this morning, by a happy inspiration
-and your Irishmanl often says and sometimes does
a good thing by inspiration-James served breakfast
in his very best style. He seemed pleased himself
with the way in which he did it; as much so as he
would have been at making a good bull, or delivering himself of something uncommonly dry and full
of brogue. It evidently gave him a silent, stomachic
satisfaction to see me enjoy my dishes; he knowing
as well as I did that there was no indigestion, no distemper in them. And so it happened that my morniDg meal was attended with only pleasurable sensations, and that I arose from it prepared to do any
good deed that needed to be done-prepared to enter
upon any course of rational enjoyment for the day
which might present itself. Accordingly, turning to
my companions I said, "It is pleasant, my dear, to
see the world one lives in. Let us go to Spring
Hill."
It was a balmy morning; and, seating myself in
the carriage, I spoke placidly to the driver, saying:
" Now, my man, take your own time. Slow or
fast,'tis all the same to me."
Accordingly, he put his horse on that moderate
pace which best suits the comfort of an idle man
having no other aim than simply to get out of town
into the open country. And a quiet, pleasant drive
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MOBILE.
this is to Spring Hill. On either side of the way are
villas, every one surrounded with its pretty yard of
flowers. The grounds are divided, for the most part,
by hedges, made by throwing the turf from a ditch
upon one of its sides, and planting the embankment
with  the  Cherokee  rose, which,  being  of rapid
growth, soon forms a hedge as dense as it is beautiful. This rose runs along by the roadsides, likewise,
converting walls and fences into thick banks of
leaves and flowers. It climbs to the tops of high
trees, hanIging its festoons among the branches, or
letting them droop gracefully to the ground. In
fact, this showy wild flower, with its five white
petals and centre of gold, embedded as it is in so
many brightly shining leaves of green, gives almost
a bridal aspect to the spring landscape, and wellinigh
makes all these citizens' boxes look like homes of the
poets.
And the legend of the Cherokee rose is as pretty
as the flower itself.  An Indian chief of the Seminole tribe-I had the story from a lady in Mobile, as
brilliant in mind as beautifuil in person-taken prisoner of war by his enemies the Cherokees, and
doomned to torture, fell so seriously ill that it became
necessary to wait for his restoration to health before
committing him to the fire. And, as he lay prostrated by disease in the cabin of the Cherokee war
141
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142' TO DIXIE AiLVD THE TROPICS.
rior, the daughter of the latter, a young, dark-faced
maid, was his nurse. She fell in love with the young
chieftain, and, wishing to save his life, urged him to
escape; but he would not do so unless she would flee
with him. She consented. Yet, before they had
gone far, impelled by soft regret at leaving her home,
she asked leave of her lover to return, for the purpose of bearing away some memento of it. So, retracing her footsteps, she broke a sprig of the white
rose which was climbing up the poles of her father's
tent, and, preserving it during her flight through the
wilderness, planted it by the door of her new home
among the Seminoles. And from that day this beautiful flower has always been known, between the
capes of Florida and throughout the Southern States,
by the name of the Cherokee rose.
The most striking feature of the landscape seen
on this road to Spring Hill, is its lofty and widespreading liveoaks. They make a pleasant contrast
with the pines, which stand thickly clustered together, and have tall, straight, tapering stems, and
crowns tufted with needles.  In passing through the
groves composed of these latter trees, so full of sap
in this warm climate, one scents at a considerable
distance the pleasantly aromatic perfume. The pine
loves the sand; and there is no lack of it here. Indeed, since leaving Wilmington, I have visited no
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MOBILE.
town so softly pillowed upon the sands as is Mobile.
The Cape Codder who, in passing along this road,
sees his carriage wheels sinking into the yielding
material, may very likely feel a pang of regret, believing himself, for the moment, transported out of
this Southern paradise back to his native sea beaches.
The whole of the road, however, is not so heavy, the
greater portion of it having been made hard with
shells.
But sand makes pure air; and on arriving in
Mobile, more particularly if he come from the mud
of New Orleans, the traveller exclaims, "I How
sweet-scented is this city!"  Accordingly, in passing along this road to Spring Hill, as I came in sight
of some pretty little villa, peeping out of its shrubbery, with rows of orange and lime trees, of mock
orange and pitosporum, of crape myrtles and jessa mines from Mexico, the thought came forcibly to my
mind, What a pity it is that the Northern invalids,
so many of whom I have mnet in the course of my
journey, hurrying from one uncomfortable, ill-pro vided hotel to another, exposed to frequent and sharp
transitions of weather, and suffering from the incon veniences of crowded  cars and dirty steamboats,
what a pity that, instead of pursuing health over
every broken road between Maine and Florida, they
could not so far overcome the natural restlessness of
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144      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the American character, and their own fidgety love
of change and travel, as to sit down contentedly for
a half or a quarter of the year, in one of these suburban cottages!
Make your home, poor, feverish man, in some of
these bowers of flowers. Here you can be constantly in the open air. The noon is not too hot for
a walk in the shade; nor are morning and evening
too cool for a ride on horseback. The sands are dry
under your feet. The exhilarating air from the gulf
blows softly in at open windows, bringing with it
the pleasant odors of the roses which climb up the
lattice, or of the honeysuckles that hang from the
piazza eaves. When the sun is hot, the cypress casts
for you its dark shadows, and the liveoak spreads an
ample shade. Here come with your box of books.
There is a piano in the parlor for the young, ladies;
and the guitar case makes but one piece more of the
luggage. Or is it the fair girl herself who is stricken? Then let her come here and tend the flowers.
Let her tie up these scarlet lilies; repress the luxuriance of the straying verbenas; pluck nosegays of the
sweet-scented violets for her bosom; and wear these
blush roses in her hair. If she must die away from
her home, what land can be less strange to her than
this? And there will be plenty of half-opened buds
in the garden wherewith to deck her shioud and
strew her grave.
I, 
MOBILE.
Alas! however, that in late summer and early
autumn this Spring Hill, now so green with the
newly unfolded leaves, and so gay with every kind
of flowers, should not escape the ravages of that
dreadful fever which annually scourges the towns
situated along the shores of the gulf. One would
suppose the air too pure to admit of the coming of
that dire epidemic; but it is not so. The inhabitant
of the suburban villa is not sheltered from the dart
which strikes down the dweller in the crowded and
less cleanly town. Indeed, the approach of the fatal
fever is always heralded by the prevalence of unusually fine weather.  When the winds are comparatively still, when the air is clear and balmy, and
every one is saying to himself, How charming are
these days! and the nights, moonlit or starry, are so
full-of light-then it is that the destroyer is at the
door. The extraordinary brilliancy of the firmament
is but the light reflected from the wings of the
angel commissioned by Heaven to scatter pestilence
throughout the abodes of the children of men. The
fine weather feeds fever until the frost kills it.
B]ut, in the springtime, nobody thinks of the pestilence of the autumn. Much as ever are the last
year's dead remembered in a region of country amnually rejuvenated by a new invasion of strangers from
the higher latitudes. One lives here in the present
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moment -is it flies, and pulls the roses while they
blow. The past seems almost to fade out of the
memory as quickly as the color every evening fades
out of the sky at sunset. Perhaps it is because, in
these climes nearer to the sun, the day is so full of
delights, being ever fresh with early dew, and warm
with the rays of noon, and cool with the evening
breeze. The heart, seduced by nature's bounty and
unceasing goodness to share her sympathy, and enter
into her joys, soon forgets its own sorrow. The men
of business, too, lose themselves in present and pressing affairs in these trading towns, as Mobile and New
Orleans, even more than elsewhere. While the season for business lasts, they work diligently in their
vocation, striving every day to add as many dollars
as possible to that heap of gold which is to be their
fortune. But once this raised to the necessary elevation, they set off to enjoy it in their native North.
Hence the feeling of home attachment is very feeble
in these communities, where men reside but half a
year, and for half a life. Hence all great public inprovements are made  slowly, and with  dificulty.
The ties of family are more easily severed, and the
condition of life is less favorable to good mnorals.
Spring Hill is, of course, a hill-a slight natural
elevation on these sandy shores and level plains of
woods. From its summit, looking over an inter
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MOBILE.
vening distance of green tops of trees, one sees the
city of Mobile; and, beyond, Lake Pontchartrain.
Getting out of his carriage, he strolls for a few minutes in the pleasant shade, and breathes the hilltop
air, pure from  all odors unless it be that of flowers.
Returning through the little cluster of villas called
Somerville, he again descends from his carriage; for
who could pass these magnificent liveoaks, these
lofty pines, with bark of purple and foliage so deeply
green, and these poplars growing as vigorously here
as in their native Lombardy, without lingering to
admire the luxuriant display of vegetation?   lie
wishes also to inspect more closely the roses of the
Cloth of Gold, and the white Lamarques. The Malmaison, too, is so delicately tinted, and its petals are
so gracefully folded, that the lover of flowers is
never tired of looking at it. Hlow effulgently the
Giant of Battles glows, spotting the surrounding
green with crimson! And here the Lady Bank
climbs the China trees, adding its yellow to their
blue. Hlow sweetly sleeps the sunlight of the noon
on these beds of flowers! reposing on rose leaves;
lying hid in the cups of the lilies; basking on the
crimson carpet of the verbenas; poised on the outspread calyxes of the pinks; and cradled in the large
blossoms of the magnolias, which on the tops of the
trees are gently swinging in the wind.
147 
148      TO.DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
I could have spent the whole morning in these
lanes and gardens; but, the morning being already
gone, I returned to town.
Nor is the drive along the shore of the bay
scarcely less pleasant. Take it on a warm day,
when, as you go, you will be fanned by the sea
breeze, freshly blowing from gulf and lake. The
Mobilites drive over this shore road to cool their
blood, to dry the locks moistened by perspiration,
and to relax the mind overwearied by affairs. I
selected, however, for this excursion, a very idle,
dreamy morning, when the sun, sluggishly mounting
the hazy zenith, seemed almost too lazy to shine.
The lake, along the shore of which the road winds,
lay in a slumber too profound to be interrupted by
the faint ripples which came softly creeping up from
the direction of the sea beyond. With carriage top
thrown back, and myself reclining indolently upon
the cushions, I was borne slowly along thiswinding
way; the horses going at their own gait, and the
driver's whip dangling idly from its socket.  With a
temperature just soft enough, and a breeze which
barely kept me company, and the sun's rays shorn by
the gathered vapors of their glare, the luxury of this
driving was almost as great as of sailing in a gondola
upon the canals of Venice. As I passed along the
road, the gardener was listlessly trimming his flow
II 
MOBILE.
ers; the farmer stopped work to see the stranger go
by; the negro stood leaning against the side of the
house, with both hands in his pockets; and, before
the hour of noon, the laborers who had been employed in covering the road with shells had knocked
off work, and, sitting on logs beneath the trees, were
peacefully eating their dinner. And so I jogged on
for half a dozen miles between the farms and villas,
through groves of pines, and oaks, and magnolias.
The Cherokee rose followed me on the hedges, and
the white flowering blackberry crept after along the
roadsides. Were not the tall magnolia trees, with all
their dark, glossy leaves, and white buds ready to
burst, made beautiful enough by nature, that she
needed also to hang them with the grace of the wild
grapevines? Nor were the pitch-yielding pines fair
enough to the sight, with their purple bark and needles of green, that they must be climbed by such
pretty parasites? How lovely are the flowers of this
tulip tree!  The branches, so profusely decked by
them, overhang the road, and can almost be reached
by the hand.  I stop the carriage, and, climbing the
fence which skirts the way, break off an inviting
bough. The flowers are green externally, having
spots of orange and a delicate shade of yellow
within.   In shape they resemble the cup of the
white water-lily. But they have no fragrance.
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And now, passed the magnolia grove and the
Magnolia race course, we turn the horses' heads
about-not, however, changing their pace. Then, in
the depths of the forest, I saw Morpheus just lying
down to take his siesta, and was almost tempted to
ask him to join our company: for the carriage was
an easy one, the shell road smooth, and the' horses'
hoofs beat the ground with a regular, monotonous
cadence. The coachman on his box, I am sure, had
but one eye open, the other having the night before
been bunged. It being now the height of noon, the
small birds merely whispered to each other in the
trees; there was not even the lowest murmuring of
waves on the shore; and the cocks of the barnyards,
if wide awake enough to crow, still did it drawlingly, and with a tone of voice inducing sleep rather
than disturbing it. Such days as these it is, said I,
that make the idlers of the South; something in the
very atmosphere inviting a man to sit down to smoke
his cigar and waste the time. They favor lounging,
loafing.  Under such influences from the skies, the
ladies, instead of walking, loll in carriages; and the
gentlemen cannot sit upright in their chairs, but must
recline with heels higher than head, thereby acquiring the stoop of the counting house as effectually as
from leaning over the legers.
On my return to town, the very streets seemed to
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be struck with a certain degree of stupor. There
was no stir in them. Men were walking slowly up
and down, or were lounging at the shop and hotel
doors, all looking as though their work were done
for the season.
"Rather sleepy here to-day," said I to the land
lord.
" Yes," he replied;  "we  are apt to have dull
weather at this time.  Business slackens now that
the cotton is all down; and people are beginning to
leave for the North."
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CffAPTER XIII.
TAhe Lower  isisssi2ppi.
HE  weather, after my departure from Mobile,
became warmer, and, in fact, perfectly tropical.
Sunshine perpetual, or effulgent moonlight, accompanied me all the way across the azure gulf; but on the
bar of the Mississippi a fog came out of the north,
with rain, and wind, and cold, and thunder and lightning. Climate and clothing, I made a change of both
on this bar. I was let down out of heaven and stuck
in the mud in one and the same moment. During
the voyage, our steamer had managed to attain a
speed of eight knots the hour; but here, with her
keel three feet deep in the sand and slime of the
river, she made only about eight inches.  How, for
half a day, her paddles made the yellow porridge of
the Mississippi boil! The wonder was that she got
through into deep water even at the end of that
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THE LO WELR MIISISSIPPI.5
time. Doubtless there was a snail at her stern helping her.
Charming sight it was to look upon the banks of
black mud, barely rising above the level of the
waters, and somewhat resembling huge leviathans
lying at anchor, or alligators asleep on the surface!
It would have reminded one who had been a passenger in Noah's ark, of the appearance of the world
the morning after the Deluge. Only, instead of
doves bringing olive branches, there was but the
flight of a few lazy sea gulls. Gradually, however,
this primeval aspect of things gave place to that of
the dry and solid earth. From mud islands, we came
to others covered with reeds and rushes. Next succeeded the wild grasses.  Blackbirds and buzzards
shared the sky with the sea gulls. Then appeared
the mammalia, wild hogs, half-tamed horses, cows
browsing in pastures which lay a foot deep under
water, and, finally, man-that is to say, the fisherman, living in a hut built on piles.  Here, also, dwelt
the lighthouse keeper, and, strange to say, the
worker of the telegraph. The quarantine groundI might almost say water-came into view a little
later, being wellnigh submerged, and looking like a
pet nursery of fever and pestilence. I was strongly
tempted to inquire of the doctor respecting the
health of his own family, and express an affectionate
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154     TO DIXIE AN.D THE TR OPICS.
hope that he himself had not an ague; for the man
was thin in the cheeks, and sallow, and, in fact,
looked quite ashamed of performing the duty of
feeling anybody's pulse on board the steamer. I also
wished to congratulate him on his boat; as, in case
the river should rise still a little higher, it might be
the saving of himself and his household.
Every inhabitant of this part of the river, I afterward observed, was the owner of a similar boat,
which he used for rowing himself about his small
estate, and fishing for snappers in his fields, when the
water was too deep to dig potatoes. The dwellings
all had the appearance of being bath houses; built,
in the lower part of the river, of logs, and thatched;
higher up the stream, shingled; and, higher still,
slated. But near the mouth, I could hardly have believed it a Christian land we were entering, had we
not pretty soon come to a fort. This was an unmistakable evidence of civilization; and the extensive
orange plantations, which afterward began to peep
out of the primeval forests skirting the river side,
still more favored the idea that we were entering the
gates of a great country.
The quantity of driftwood in the stream was an
indication, to be sure, of interminable forests higher
up on its banks; but, on the other hand, the numerous floating casks, barrels, and bottles, proved that
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we were approaching some large emporium of commerce. Might it not also be the seat of a prodigal
luxury, a city flowing not only with milk and honey,
but with ready-made cobblers and cocktails? For
the yellow, foaming river really seemed to be running with egg-nogg-and it certainly did not run
straight.
155 
CHA P TER XI V.
-Yew Orleans.
HE first thing I saw, on the morning of my
arrival in New Orleans, was the quays; and
the second was the cotton on them.  Acres upon
acres, indeed, of cotton bales and sugar boxes I saw
on the quays; and, on the river, broad forests of
masts and steamers' smoke pipes, the steamers being
piled five stories high, the smoke pipes projecting
into midheaven, and the whole  structure, in fact,
carried to such an altitude, that, when there is an
explosion, one can hardly be said to be blown up,
but, on the contrary, blown down. Yet I did not
fully realize the fact of being in the Crescent City
and emporium of the Southwest, until the waiter at
the hotel brought me a pitcher of water for shaving.
This made it as clear as mud that I had reached the
celebrated and turbid Mississippi.  The natives pretend that this river water, when properly filtered, is
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NEW ORLEANS.
the third best drinking water in the world. *I suspect, however, that if a person will use water rather
than the other beverages in more general favor here,
that which falls from the skies, and is preserved in
tanks above ground, is preferable. The bath, certainly, nowhere looks less inviting than in this city.
One's linen must be washed in it, as the laundress
cannot use a more expensive liquid; though, if lager
beer could be obtained at a little lower price, it
might be questioned whether the clothes would not
come out of it looking whiter.
The impression which the stranger is likely to
get of life in New Orleans, is, that it is sufficiently
bizarre.   In no other large American city does it
seem so full of incongruities and irreconcilable contrasts. Here are half a dozen different races, and
half a dozen different colors of the skin. In one
quarter of the town live the Americans; in the
other, the French Creoles. The latter keep themselves, in fact, so distinct from the former, that some
of them are said never to pass the division line of
Calial street. In ballrooms, too, the Creole ladiesand lovely creatures they are, French in dress, manners, and ideas, and pleasantly transitional between
the women of the tropics and those of the Statesretain a portion of the floor exclusively for themselves; though always happy, I am told, to receive
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158      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the visits of the American gentlemen from the other
side of the hall; and even giving them a preference
over the beaux of their own caste, the greater part
of whom distinguish themselves rather in dancing,
smoking, drinking, and playing billiards, than in more
manly accomplishments and occupations. Among
the quadroons I saw less beauty than corresponds
with the reports of travellers; while the lower class
of the French part of the population surprised me
by the roughness and almost insolence of its manners. Many fine, manly forms may be noticed among
the merchants at the Exchange, and other principal
centres of business; but the general type of face is
rather coarse than refined, more furrowed and knit
with cares than expanded with generous sentiments.
Dust, or mud, abound everywhere in this city.
It does not always rain; but the sun cannot burn
out the stains of mould and damp on the older house
walls. The buildings, excepting those recently erected, look dingy. One-story tenements stand by the
side of lofty warehouses, no law of harmony prevailing; so that it takes all the finery of the shop windows, the painted names, and the glittering signboards, to make even the most crowded streets a
little picturesque.   On these boards the names are
written in different languages, and you constantly
overhear, on the promenades, various foreign ac 
NEW ORLEANS.
cents. Il the principal cathedral the service is read
in French; you buy fruit at stalls kept by Spaniards;
the Gerifan at the market place spreads out his
wares in a booth; the Jew offers to sell you cigars
at half the street corners; and, in some quarters of
the town, you can have a Chinese for a bootblack.
There is style and dash enough here, but little
completeness of design or harmony of effects. In
all the streets most marked contrasts abound. One
meets coaches washed with gaudy and superfluous
silver, but the coachman not washed at all. You
pass over pavements lying deep in mud, and along
sidewalks lined with gutters either stagnant, or
creeping only by the aid of machinery; and yet you
meet ladies taking their morning walks in ermine,
and ball dresses. The promenade of the most fashionable streets is almost as much encumbered with
boxes of merchandise as in New York are the trottoirs of Dey street. The corners, too, are beset with
gents, loafers, orange women, and venders of roasted
chestnuts-the latter not bad.   But nowhere in all
its course does the American sun behold so highcolored muslins, such flaunting silks and roseate ribbons. New York has no show of millinery to compare with it. Such nosegays of hats, such cobwebs
of laces, such loves of fans, such shawls, such brocades, such tissues!  They make this city a perfect
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T'O DIXIE AND THE ITROPICS.
little heaven for all the wives and daughters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Arkansas. And of this heaven the queen is, or was, Madame Olympe. Every
box she orders from Paris produces, when opened,
the effect of another Pandora's, turning half the
ladies' heads in the Mississippi country, and emptying all their purses. This, to be sure, is saying a
good deal; for when the cotton or sugar planter
brings down his wife and daughters to this metropolis, he means they shall have a good time, and furnishes them with money enough to buy all the millinery they can stand under.
The Englishman who, having come over in a
Cunarder, takes lodgings at the St. Nicholas Hotel
in New York, pronounces its drawing rooms stutnin'.  But as much more magnificent as was  its
bridal chamber than its bedrooms in the fifth story,
so much does the one parlor of the St. Charles in
New Orleans exceed in splendor the whole suite of
showrooms of the New  York  caravansary.  For,
when all the cotton widows and cotton girls have
bought their new dresses in Canal or Chartres street,
they display them at once in the St. Charles parlor.
Every chair and sofa is set out with the new silks
and satins. You hear it whispered about, that the
dress of white point lace worn by the young belle
standing before you cost papa two thousand dollars;
160 
NJVEW ORLEANS.
and that the lady by her side, from Red River,
flames with twenty thousand dollars' worth of jewelry. Yonder miss has hidden herself in the corner,
because, for the embroidered muslin she has on,
Madame Olympe did not charge but two hundred
dollars. The Mississippi widow, bent on making a
sensation, will not come down to the breakfast table
in anything short of diamond brooches, and lace
from the high altar; while even then the dowager
from Baton Rouge wins the general stare from her
by planting herself vis-ad-vis in pearls, and supplementary puffs made by the barber.
But in order to carry out the contrasts of this
Southwestern life, by the side of the fair women
decked in all this finery you may, perhaps, see sitting
the captain of a river steamboat, or even his purser.
Indeed, a considerable number of the gentlemen in
attendance on these gorgeous belles have the look of
men who might once have been head waiters, or, at
least, have carried from town to town their bag of
samples. Every one of them wears an enormous
diamond pin stuck in his shirt bosom; and some have
either Niagara Falls, or the course of the Missis sippi, or all the cards in the pack, pictured in the
stripes of their pantaloons. They are of that class
of men who, at home, if they cannot make then selves famous in any other way, will drive a team of
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161 
TO DIXIE AIVD THE TROPICS.
elks tandem; and take their wives to the ball in
furniture wagons, in order to give them room to
spread themselves.
But perhaps the most striking instance of the incongruities of Southwestern life may be seen at the
hotel tables. You pay three dollars per day for
drinking your coffee out of china embellished with
the head of General Cass, or of some similar worthy, who has made himself a great name at Washington. And this cup is brought to you, not by a
good-looking Sambo with white teeth, eyes, and
apron, but by some rude, ungainly German or Irishman, who tells you that there are no fried oysters,
that the plantains arc gone, the French rolls gone,
and, bringing two fins on a plate, informs you that
it is the last of the red snappers.
" I hope I am not too late for tea, Patrick?"
" Yes, you are.  No tea after eight o'clock, sir."
" Bridget, send me the chambermaid."
"The chambermaid is off duty, ma'am, at six
o'clock."
"But are you not a chambermaid?"
"No, ma'am; I'm higher. There is a girl on
watch-only she has gone to tea; she will be back
in all hour. You can call her."
The mistake you made consisted in taking a waitimg for a chamber maid, though in a most untidy
dress and soiled satin slippers.
162 
NEW ORLEANS.
However, you can breakfast very well on stewed
redfish, whenever you can get it; and you can dine
very well off roasted turkey, fed on peanuts, when
you can get that. But the epicure should come to
New Orleans in the crab season, and enjoy this delicacy done in rice and curry ad la Creole.
If the time of crabs be not fully come, let him
rather wait a month or two before making his visit;
and, indeed, in case they are lean in any particular
year, let him not come at all. He must not expect
to eat green peas in March; but will be lucky even
to get salad. It is not for early greens, or any such
delicacies, that he pays his twenty-one dollars per
week, but because the hotel has been built ait an
expense of a million, one quarter of it laid out on a
portico with tall Grecian pillars, as if the edifice
were a temple, not a tavern.
For the rest, this seems to be a city of bar and
billiard rooms, of bowling and pistol alleys. Bar,
billiards, and bowling are the three Bs of New
Orleans. There is no room in the hotel so large as
that wherein the liquor is dispensed. It being also
an auction room, handbills of the sales lie about the
house, and on all the public tables, those of the parlor not excepted.   You can look on scarcely any
street wall without being informed that, in the barroom of such a hotel, there will be, on such a day,
163 
TO DIXIE AND THE TiROPICS.
at such an hour, a sale of negroes, or other merchan dise. The hammers of the auctioneers make as
much noise here as do the fighting cocks in Cuba.
But, to escape this clatter, you can take a drive to
the southern part of the city, which is made beauti ful by flowers. It is the garden of the town. Here
every house is built in an enclosure well filled with
ornamental shrubs and trees, which, during the
spring season, are fresh with green leaves and fair
with blossoms. From the liveoak hung with moss,
to the blue violet which scents the air, all the forms
of vegetation are full of sap and vigor. The flowering trees are of many colors-white, blue, yellow,
purple, crimson. The roses grow on tall stems, or
climb to the roofs of the houses. The walls and trellises are covered with the blushes of these most
lovely of flowers; or they are straw-colored; or they
peep out of the green leaves in spotted white. And
in the midst of them stands the solemn, graceful
cypress, making strong contrast with oleanders and
pitosporums.   How gracefully the locust hangs out
its tassels in the air; the orange trees glow with the
yellow of our sweet maples in autumn; the Chinese
viburnums are only less fair in their dress of green
and white; while the mocking birds in cages mock
the wild birds which sing to their young in the tall
laurel trees.
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NEW ORLEANS.
This is the bright side of the town;  and the
stranger should appropriate a sunny day to seeing it.
Unfortunately, there are not so many such in the
New Orleans spring as one might suppose from the
reports of the local journalists, who seem to form an
Admiration Society for the purpose of glorifying the
city and its climate. The beauty of every bright,
genial day is elaborately puffed by them in print. So
is the coming of all the early fruits of the season.
The arrival of the first pompano makes an epoch;
the first strawberry moistens the mouth of every
citizen who reads the account of it in the newspapers; the first dish of green peas in the market is
sent as a present to the printer; and, in the same
way, all the changing delights of New Orleans life,
its balls, its races, its theatrical shows, get an extraordinary amount of puffing. But let not the New
Yorker, who, sitting down in the month of March to
warm his toes before the anthracite, is entertained
with one of these high-flown bursts of admiration,
copied into the papers of his own city, let him not
disturb the digestion of his metropolitan breakfast
by sighing for the possession of such premature luxuries as fall to the lot of mortals inhabiting the Crescent City. Especially let him not be tempted to set
hastily off for the Gulf of Mexico, in order to regale
himself with these semi-tropical delicacies. But if so
165 
TO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
completely infatuated by their description that he
must needs go in pursuit of them, let him be persuaded, at least, to take his anthracite along with
him; for he will need it. True, the day of his arrival may very likely be so sultry as to tempt him into
white linen; but the day after he will shiver in flannels. Does he wish to breakfast on pompanos?
Certainly, they are in the market, but not in the bill
of fare of the St. Charles Hotel. They are to be
had for two dollars and a half apiece, and grease
money to the cook. He would like a dessert of
large, ripe strawberries, such as he read of in the
papers before leaving New York. He will be able
to find them, no doubt, by going to the confectioner's in Canal street.
"How much for strawberries?"
"Twenty dollars the gallon, sir.  Have some?"
However, it must be acknowledged that the extraordinary things that the New Yorker will see at
the St. Charles will go far toward repaying him for
tile trouble of his journey. He will see gentlemen
in purple pantaloons. Twice in the twenty-four hours
all the magnificence of Red River and Arkansas
empties itself-a perfect flood of jewels, laces, painted silks, and muslins-into the parlor. He will see
that.  Indeed, let him look sharp at these ladies; for,
among them, he will find some with not less than
166
I 
NEW ORLEA AS.
four thousand cotton bales a year, and others who
run two sets of sugar kettles.  "Look at'em straight,
to see if you like'em," as the orange boy said to me
on the Mississippi steamer, when I stopped him for
the purpose of making an investment in the contents
of his baskets.  And when the gorgeous tide is out
of the parlor, our New Yorker may be entertained,
by chance, with the'sight of a couple of lovers on a
sofa, sucking each an orange, while they estimate the
value of their respective crops for the next season,
and speculate on the probable price of negroes.
Then, when he goes to dinner, it will be an amusement for him to divine the character and occupation
of the gentleman sitting opposite, with such an imposing countenance, with hair artistically combed
back, with so grand an air, so much deference toward
the lady sitting by his side. Is he a cotton lord, or a
sugar lord, or some foreign potentate on his travels?
-a question which may well occupy the mind for a
half hour, at the end of which time our traveller, on
going down to the barroom for his petit verre of
Cognac, gets the solution. His vis-4-vis is a tapman,
and mixes juleps.
And, finally, the New Yorker who has come
down to New Orleans to eat early strawberries, will
undoubtedly be asked to spend a week on some plantation up the river, where,he will enjoy the great
167 
TO -)IXIE AND) THE  TROPICS.
treat of hunting the bear. This of itself will repay
him for the trouble of having travelled a thousand
miles, and even make him, on his return to the North,
as famous as the English cockney, who, after the tour
of the States, returns to London.
" Well, Colonel," says every friend he meets,
"you've returned from America, at last?"
"Why, ya-a-s."
" Do anything there?"
"Why, ya-a-s; I shot a few bear!"
168
i 
CHAPTER XV.
Lake Pontchartrain,
I MADE the inevitable excursion to Lake Pont     chartrain. And, after a few days in town, it
was a pleasant change to pass beyond the suburbs
into the open fields, where, instead of the careworn
faces of the Exchange, and the painted faces of
Canal street, I saw herds of cows and oxen placidly
grazing in the pastures. It is true that I very soon
came to the great New Orleans swamp; but even
that was interesting as a specimen of that kind of
natural scenery of which there is so much along the
course of the Mississippi. I found it full of tall trees
and tangled thickets, the former of which soon come
to maturity, and soon go to decay; so that the naked,
dead branches and the leafy young twigs are everywhere interlaced.  It is the beauty of the garden
and the desolation of the waste combined. Huge
trunks lie mouldering in all directions on the ground,
8 
170     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
which is half submerged in water; while out of
every dry spot springs an infinite variety of shrub bery, and plants bearing flowers. One hears the
birds singing in the trees where they are building
their nests; and, at the same tinme, looks in the mud holes for water snakes and alligators.
But, now that you are at the lake, what do you
propose to do? Will you walk out upon the wharf,
which projects far into the water? The sun is too
hot. Will you take a bath? The bathing house is
not open until later in the season, when the water is
lukewarm; and, besides, it is as yellow as that of the
Mississippi, or the Tiber. Will you take a boat, and
amuse yourself by sailing? But there is no wind.
What,  then, can be done?   The  New  Orleanist
knows very well what to do.  He walks into the
hotel, takes a drink, and orders a fish dinner. He
has come out here expressly to have a feast, and,
perhaps, to gorge himself with pompanos, like a pike
with frogs.   He will also eat croakers, or courtbouillon of redfish, or tenderloin trout; and the
odds are that they will be quite tender enough. Yet
it may be a very nice thing, a fish dinner at the lake;
for everybody seems to think so. For my part, however, I preferred spending my time in exploring the
neighboring swamp for mud turtles and alligators.
But after having eaten your fish, if you will, and 
LAKE PONTCHARTRAIN.
seen the wharf, and seen the row of shanties along
the shore, and fired a few rounds ini the pistol gallery, and shot, of course, your alligator, you return
by the way of the swamp to the city. There is
absolutely nothing else to be done or enjoyed at
Lake Pontchartrain.
But, I pray you, stop, on your return, at Carrollton; for there is a garden there full of fair flowers,
and attached to it a gardener skilful in arranging
them in bouquets. What an infinite beauty of colors
and graceful forms we brought to town in'a single
nosegay! It made the foul streets fragrant, as we
passed along, and transformed our sombre hotel
chamber into a rustic bower or cottage piazza. How
lovely these roses of Ophir, of blended pink and
straw-color! how full of odor these orange blossoms,
mignlonettes, and jessamines!   And a cheap pleasure it is. For two or three paltry shillings one buys
a great feast and entertainment, greater than can be
purchased in our Northern towns for as many dollars.
171 
iffAPTER XV1.
Up the Mississippi.
WENT up the Mississippi in one of the very
"crackest" boats on the river.  The captain, as
described in the editorial column of a morning paper,
was an Esq. well known in the community; and the
clerk " a gentleman with whom it is a pleasure to
travel." Strange to say, I found this description
very nearly true. The captain, at least, was a brave
and good-looking fellow; while the clerk, when I
mentioned to him the name of the plantation to
which I was going, said he regretted that he should
have to put me on shore at daybreak, but would give
orders to the engineer to make noise enough, on
approaching the landing, to wake up all the negroes
on the place.
Like all the best boats, this one was five stories
high, and had the appearance of being as much out
of the water as a duck.  From one end of the cabin 
UP THE fIISSISSIPPI.
to the other there extended a long vista, made longer
by a mirror at the stern. In the forward part of this
saloon were congregated the gentlemen, discussing
politics, cobblers, and polka; in the aft sat the ladies
on sofas and Yankee rocking chairs. A small apartment in the extremest stern accommodated the maids
and duennas; and, though a situation the farthest
possible removed from danger in case of explosion, I
happened to notice that one of these colored dames
said a prayer and crossed herself between each of the
half-dozen cups of tea she drank at supper. No
doubt she expected to be blown up before morning.
This boat was celebrated for her fleetness; and it
was amusing to see her shoot across the bows of two
or three rivals which had left the city a little in advance of her. The captain apparently took pride in
passing as near to the other boat as it was possible
to go without coming into actual contact. There
was some danger, to be sure, in two steamers running at full speed within ten feet of each other; but
it gave a good opportunity to the jocose officers,
waiters, and crews on board of both vessels to bandy
pleasant words together.
" Captain," said I, "your ship seems to be rather
fast."
"Yes, sir," he replied; " she is able to take the
skin off the nose ot any craft on this river."
173 
1'O DIXIE AN.D THE TROPICS.
I believed him; for the boat was driven through
the water with a force so great it seemed that
another inch of steam would certainly split every thing. The huge framework shook, from the vio lent efforts of the engine, as if it had the ague.
The floor shook beneath my feet; the table shook,
and all the dishes on it. Every door, also-every
window and pane of glass in the enormous structure
rattled; while all the passengers seemed to feel very
much as doughnuts do when shaken in the good wife's saucepan. Surely, at the expiration of six or
seven days and nights on the river, one would have
quite enough of this mode of travelling, bepraised as
it is in these parts; and, even before that time, might
well pray for a good thick fog to compel the boat to
lie at anchor for twenty-four or forty-eight hours,
thereby restoring quiet.
My stateroom was neat, commodious, and of
large size; yet the air was too warm, and not too
pure. Indeed, what is to prevent the odors from the
tables, which are spread half the day long, and the
odors from the barroom, pungent enough at all
times, from constantly passing aft, and perfuming the
ladies' cabin, and rooms adjoining,?
However, I dined better and more comfortably
than I remember ever to have dined on any rivergoing steamer before, the Rhine boats only excepted.
174 
UP THE MISSISSIPPI.
The neatly painted cabin made a handsome dining
room. The tables, divided into small ones, were
spread with linen immaculately clean. The waiters,
who were all black boys in white jackets, served the
guests with less clatter of the heels, and less running,
and foaming at the mouth, than I have before witnessed in any similar crowd of attendants. My boy,
whenever I wanted him, was always at my elbow.
Whenever sent for any dish, he did not stop to rest
his bones by the way. HIe also remembered what he
was sent for, and did not come back with chicken
instead of turkey, or mashed potato instead of green
peas.  He and all his fellows were evidently well
officeered, and had been subjected to a system of
drilling second only to that of West Point.
But the excellence of the dinner did not consist
entirely in the clean linen and the good service.
There was a master in the art of cooking below
decks, who sent up his dishes in a style which put
the cooks of the great hotels on shore nowhere.
Think of having your choice, on board a steamboat,
between three different kinds of such fish as boiled
sheep's head, baked snapper, and barbecued redfish
-not to mention side dishes, like oyster pie and
stuffed crabs!  Think, too, of such extraordinary
dishes on a steamboat table as calves' feet cooked as
they are cooked in Portugal, and ox tongue done as
175 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
they do it in Macedonia!   Think, also, of boned
calves' head, of maccaroni timbale, of briskets of
pork a la Perigord, and of veal in a blanket of mushrooms! Think, finally, of no less than seventeen
different dishes of sweets, many of them with
strange names and stranger aspect!
But in order not to represent the feast as absolutely perfect, it must be confessed that the tables
did shake a little-that the custards were in a state
of perpetual churning-and that the forms of jelly,
trembling, threatened to jump overboard. If there
was none of the risk experienced in sea-going steamers, of having the soup transferred from plate to lap,
one could, at least, not help thinking that he would
feel more secure of his dinner if well lashed to it.
Nobody, I observed, dared drink any stronger wine
than the ordinary claret, which was furnished as a
part of the dinner; the guests seeming to consider
how easy a thing it would be to tumble from such
uneasy chairs under the table.
As the captain did not land me until an hour or
two after daylight, there was no need of any extra
noise to wake up the negroes. But from the amount
of whistling and screaming the engines performed
during the night, whether on stopping at way stations for the accommodation of mails and passengers, or in saluting other boats and river craft, I
176 
UP THE JISSISSIPPI.
should say that there could not have been much
sleeping on the banks of the river, except by persons
whose ears were very familiar with steam music.
Put out in the early morning upon the levee, I
was left there without a soul to help me-not one
compassionate cabman even. My arrival not being
expected at that hour, the family coach, of course,
was not in waiting. What, then, was I to do with
either myself or my luggage? Clearly, I was to do
as Southern people do-wait; and, what was better,
enjoy the freshness of the beautiful morning by this
broad river side.
The wild fowl were flying, with cheerful cry,
hither and thither over the water; or feeding and
gambolling on shallow places near the shore, unscared by the fowler. The river hurried by, never
resting; while all nature, on that still morning, lay
in repose. The grass upon the banks and fields was
a soft green; as far as the eye could reach beyond
ran the level woods; and, over all, the sun just risen
shed the mild light of a morning in spring. I
waited, but not impatiently-enjoying the satisfaction, besides, of knowing that the solid ground beneath my feet could not be shaken by anything short
of an earthquake.
At last, a black boy of tender years came from
the mansion house, having been sent to ascertain the
177 
TO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
cause of the boat's stopping.  He was just big
enough to carry my small "traps;" and, leaving the
trunks on the shore, I walked slowly on behind the
little guide. But before going far, a stout negress
came trotting toward me, to see who was coming;
nor had I received her salutations before a negro on
horseback hove in sight.  My  escort increased at
every step, until I arrived at the gate of the mansion,
where still another small negro bade me welcome,
and asked me to walk in.
178 
CHAPTEIR X VII.
A Sugar Plantation.
HIS  plantation is one of the largest on the
-   3ississippi.  It lies lower, indeed, than the
river, as do the others all the way to New Orleans;
the water being kept in its channel by an embankment ten or more feet in height. The whole estate,
extending three or four miles back from the river, is
wellnigh as level as a house floor. Its soil is cultivated by two or three hundred negroes, male and
female, and almost half as many mules and horses.
Just now they are planting the sugar cane, ploughing
with six mules and two negroes-one of the latter
driving, and the other holding the plough. There
are smaller teams, however, in the lighter ground,
consisting of two mules, and one man or woman.
One sees a whole acre of blacks of both sexes at
work with hoes, covering the canes. They labor
from dawn until dusk, with a couple of hours of rest 
180     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
at; noon-:; — and, being behind in their planting on
account of the wet state of the lands, they are now
working very briskly, and do not rest on Sunday.
They hve,; however, plenty of the "hog and hominy" which the negro so much delights in; are remarkably healthy looking, and wear, for the most
part, good-natured, happy faces.
There is a whole yardful of little ones, who are
kept colonized apart from their elders, and number
about sixty. A bright, roguish set they are, as
merry as so many blackbirds, and far blacker.
Ranged in a row before us, they stood all the while
giggling, and stretching their mouths at each other.
A portion of them were also made to dance on a
platform, which they did with a will, shuffling with
their heels, and singing, in full chorus, " Oh! wait
for de wagon," and "Ole Dan Tucker."
After inspecting the little negroes, we looked at
the other live stock. At the call of an old woman,
turkeys, hens, chickens, geese, peacocks, and guinea
fowls came running and flying to get their dinner.
Then a nimble black boy was sent over the fence to
run among the trees and bushes, for the purpose of
driving into the open ground a herd of tame deer,
which we had the pleasure of seeing leap and run
from one end of the park to the other.
This plantation is a little world of itself. Corn,
i 
A SUGAR PLANTATION.
as well as sugar, is raised here, and is ground in a
steam mill into the whitest of hominy.  iHere are
herds of horses, mules, and cows, and flocks of
sheep. There is no lack of milk for the children,
and butter is churned every morning by a little negress in a stone pot almost as tall as she is. Her mistress says she sometimes goes to sleep at the task,
though still keeping up the churning. Several mechanical trades, likewise, are carried on, as the carpenter's, the smith's, the cooper's.   There  are a
dozen outhouses of all kinds in the yard icehouse,
hencoop, terrapin pen, laundry, dairy, &c. At a
little distance from the mansion stands the sugar
mill; and connected with it is a small village of
negro houses, all neatly whitewashed.
During our visit, there occurred a succession of
beautiful days, beautiful as pearls upon the string.
The sunrise, so praised by the poets, we here found
to be no fable; and all that had been said by this
fibbing class of writers respecting the beauty of the
early dewdrops, nestled in rose petals pendent from
honeysuckles, cradled in the hollows of leaves, and
flashing like gems from every spear of grass and
blade of clover, we discovered to be simple verity.
It was the freshness of the Northern spring morning,
but warm and soft as the morning of the Northern
summer. And what a sweet fellowship of life was
181 
182       TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
it to breathe the same air as the roses and the honeysuckles! What calmness of joy to walk in these
paths where the myrtle blooms, and the sweet-scented
violet! The wild olive, also, is fragrant, and so is
the banana shrub, bearing corollas chocolate-colored.
Here, on these lawns, is a perfect harmony of flowers of every hue; and here, besides, grow great
numbers of strange, semi-tropical plants, and trees
which love the sun.  At the same time, the ear is
captivated with a chorus of mocking birds, and other
sweet-throated songsters; for the birds all fly to
these gardens, taking delight, apparently, in this
beauty of foliage and flower, and made also more
cheerful themselves from the addition they bring to
the happiness of man.  Such mornings are like nosegays, which never fade, and live forever in the
memory.
Nor is the spring noontide on the banks of the
Mississippi scarcely less pleasing.  The thermometer
seems at fault when it indicates a temperature of
eighty-five degrees of Fahrenheit; for the air is
quite cool and fresh. One is comfortable in thin
woollen. Light, capricious breezes are humming, at
intervals, in the tops of the cypresses, and softly
caressing the roses which hang swinging from the
branches of the China trees. Sitting in the pleasant
shade, one is fanned by them as gently as by peacock 
A SUGAR PLANTA ION.
feathers waved over his head by slaves.  Indeed,
these airs seem to take as much delight in idling
away the noontide as we ourselves do, swinging from
treetop to treetop, balancing themselves on the poplar leaves, and finding sufficient occupation, as they
come from this side or from that, in bringing us now
the scent of roses, or pinks, or violets, and now the
incense of orange blossoms or honeysuckles. The
voices of the hundred mocking birds in these groves
and thickets are softly subdued, at this hour of the
day, their superabundant joy getting vent only in
undertones and half notes. The drowsy humming
of the bees is almost audible. And how sweetly the
low bleating of the lambs, as they nibble the white
blossoms of the clover pastures, harmonizes with this
calm of the Southern noontide; while the shrill
crowing of the cock on a neighboring plantation suggests to the ear almost a discord! The cattle, tired
of cropping the luxuriant lawn, now lie huddled in
the shade of the broad liveoaks; the negro gardeners, who have been mowing the fragrant grass, or
trimming the too adventurous climbing plants, now
eat their midday meal, sitting with their backs
against the fence, or lie sleeping after it in the full
sunlight; while we, pleasure seekers, wish for no
better entertainment than to spend the sunny hours
on the cool piazza, turning some pleasant, desultory
183 
184      0'O DILIE AND THE TROPICS.
pages; or, in gentle converse, strolling idly up and
down, plucking now a rose from its cloth of gold,
hung down from the balcony, and now a honeysuckle
from its bright tapestry of purple and scarlet.  Is
not this the perfection of still life? Surely it is its
ecstasy.
Fortunate is the traveller who, after weeks and
months spent in hotels, is received as a guest in such
a house as this, to be entertained by the sight of
cheerful, affectionate faces, and to take up his quarters, for the time being, in a clean, well-furnished
chamber looking toward the sunrise!  What a luxury there is in white linen again, and carpets soft to
the feet! Welcome is the sight of French porcelain, powder puff, and pomatum! And what an air
of good nature pervades the house, the service of
which is performed by Africans, whose mouths are
ready to grin with cheerful ivory at the first kind
word addressed to them!
The day's routine is as follows: In the morning,
being a wise man, one rises with the sunm, and saunters through the grounds to enjoy the cool of the
day; or he gets into the saddle, appropriating to his
use the legs of a horse, who cradles him about for
an hour or two over the estate, or up and down the
river bank. Breakfast by this time being more a
necessity than a luxury, he will relish corn cakes and 
A SUGAR PLANTA TION.
hominy, eggs and bacon, butter newly churned and
greens from the garden. The plantation breakfast
is a simple one, to eat which requires vigorous digestive powers rather than any particular refinement of
palate. After this meal it is the regular order of
sugar-planting life to begin the day's smokingthough it would seem as if cigars were better suited
to a country where there are fewer flowers. But
either cigar in mouth or rose in buttonhole-one
can have his choice. At this period of the day, also,
it is proper to read or write; only doing so in moderation, and breaking up the continuity of labor by
frequent intervals of idling, talking, listening to the
mocking birds, observing the soaring of the turkey
vultures, and the gay, fluttering apparition of the
butterflies. The lovers of the dog and gun, too, may
go out for birds, or bears; for there is plenty of
game in the swamp, and there is a swamp attached
to every plantation.
Your dinner you will eat when it is ready; and
that may be, very likely, an hour behind time. For
it is two o'clock on a plantation until it is three, and
three until it is four, and so through the round of all
the twenty-four hours. You ought to get very good
gumbo in this part of the world; and on feast days
you are entitled to terrapin, no plantation yard being
perfect without a terrapin pen in it. The beef is
185 
7'0 - DIXIE AND TIIE TROPICS.
good, provided it come down the river from  St.
Louis, and the Western prairies; but where there
are no hills there can be no mountain mutton.  Corn
cakes are current at every meal.  The ham is as sure
to be on the table as are its legs to be under it. In
March, green peas and strawberries are seasonable;
and if they are not forthcoming at that time, the
gardener will always have a good excuse for it.
Pecan nuts will not fail you; for they grow abundantly in this region, and are picked by the negroes
at halves. Your claret comes from New Orleans in
the cask, and is well worth the three hundred dollars
which has been paid for it. So, on the whole, your
fare is satisfactory, and to be accepted with thankfulness.
After dinner there is but one thing to be done.
You are put into the coach; and, after having ridden
over all the country without ceremony in the morning, you will be driven over the same, after dinner,
in state. The family coach is always a respectable
vehicle, if an old one; but may be a little flashy if
bran new.  The coachman, however, is a simple black
boy, in a glazed hat, without tag or tassel; and, behind, sits with dangling -heels a smaller one, in a
straw hat and neatly patched breeches. Nor is this
last boy by any means the fifth wheel in the coach.
On the contrary, he makes himself exceedingly use
186 
A SUGAR PLANTAH TIOWN.
ful in opening doors and gates, and doing all your
bidding.
And so goes the day.  So goes every day; for
there is little variety in this kind of life. When
there is a fine sunset, of course you look at it; but
beware of the evenings, which are damp- often
chilly. Do not expect to enjoy them as in Cuba;
but, there being neither ball nor opera, draw your
nightcap over your eyes at an early hour, and be sure
that no windows looking toward the north are left
open.  From any other point of the compass air may
be allowed to come into the bedchamber during the
night without risk to health; but out of the north
star come sudden and very dangerous changes of
weather in this climate.
On these banks of the Mississippi the home is not
quite so permanent an institution as one might suppose from the large size of the estates. For the
business of sugar growing being of such a nature
that it can be profitably managed only by a single
directing mind, it often happens, on the death of the
planter, that no convenient disposition can be made
of the property among the heirs, except by its sale.
The equal distribution of estates among the children
of the deceased has the effect to turn them all out
of the house and home which was their father's, no
one being rich enough to receive it as his portion.
187 
188      T'O I)JDIXIE ANI) THE TROPICS.
Hence sugar planters rarely can afford to erect costly
mansion houses; and, if they do build them, such
property is liable to come into the possession of
strangers, rather than to be retained by the family
during a succession of generations.   Hence, also,
these homes can be expected to contain but few heirlooms of the past, or costly works of art, or large
libraries, or valuable furniture.  Much as ever will
they be shaded by tall, ancestral trees, or surrounded
by fine old parks and extensive pleasure grounds.
Generally, the house must be a cheap, wooden one,
situated in a small lawn and yard of flowers; and,
indeed, it should be so built that it can be toil down
without too much trouble; for our new democratic
generations must have new houses. The only pity
is, that the old family associations have to be broken
up, and scattered with the old rafters and doorposts. 
CIHAP TER XVIII.
A Western ILotel.
T was late on a rainy evening that I arrived at
the great Western city of.  On entering
the hotel which had been recommended to me, I
found the hall filled like a merchant's exchange, and
made my way to the office, not without some diffi culty. The clerks were all too busy to notice my
arrival. I was not asked to register my name in the
hotel book, but did so without invitation. After
waiting some little time, however, I succeeded in
catching the eye of a clerk, when we held the following conversation together:
"IHave you a room for me?"
" Not a room in the house, sir."
"Well, give me a cot, then."
Not a cot in the house, sir."
"But I am ill, and can go no farther.  You may
give me a sofa-anything." 
TO DIXIE A, D THE TROPICS.
" Not a sofa in the house, sir. Nothing in the
house, sir."
And the clerk passed on, to say the same thing to
another applicant for hospitality-and to anotheruntil he was so tired of refusing, that he did it without pity, or even politeness. I turned on my heel;
and, at the same instant, turned on his heel toward
me one of the bystanders. It was a small providence, for he was a good Samaritan from New York,
who picked me up in my hour of need, and gave me
a cot in his empty parlor.
I then learned that I had arrived at the wrong
hour in the day. In the great Western hotels, the
tide of travel ebbs and flows twice in the twentyfour hours as regularly as the ocean follows the
moon. After nine o'clock in the morning, rooms are
as easy to be had as any drug in the market; after
nine in the evening they can rarely be obtained for
money, and never for love. The hospitality of the
house ceases at nine P. M. The civility of the clerks
is completely exhausted by that time. Travellers
arriving later than that are a nuisance to all the officials, from landlord to chambermaid. The cold, inhospitable looks the belated comer gets all round
seem to say to him, "Why did you not arrive earlier
in the day, sir?"   If it would do any good, you
might easily account for the lateness of your getting
190 
A WESTERN HOTEL.
to town, and show that the blame rested on other
shoulders than your own; but it will be of no avail.
You can have as many apartments as you please to  morrow morning; but to-night you must get your
sleep on three chairs, or walking the hall, if you hap  pen to be a somnambulist.
So it is year in and year out. A porter gifted
with a strong pair of lungs is kept pretty constantly
perambulating the halls of the house, and bawling
out, loud enough to waken every sleeper and stun
every waker, "All aboard! all aboard!  Omnibus
ready for the cars!"  A person accustomed to the
quiet of his own mansion may be annoyed by this;
but before he has lived forty days in the hotel, he
pays no more attention to them than to the hand
organ which nightly grinds its grist of melodies
under his windows. Not less embarrassing are the
piles of luggage heaped up in the halls and passage
ways, against which one is constantly liable to run
his nose or bark his shins. And when the trunks are
loaded on the backs of hurrying porters, the risk of
a collision is still greater; for poor Paddy, with half
a ton of trunks to his back, is blind as a bat, and sees
nothing but the main chance of the open doorway.
The traveller is more in danger of being run down in
his hotel than on the river, or the rail. Porters,
waiters, guests, all are in quick motion; and one or
191 
192      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the other is pretty sure to knock him over. Indeed,
the society of a Western hotel is in a constant flux.
The universe, in the Hegelian philosophy, is not more
fluid. Every man is either just in from Cincinnati
or Chicago, or he is just starting for one of these
places.  Unless he makes his hundred miles between
breakfast and dinner, he counts himself an idler, and
talks of growing rusty. A great deal of his business
he transacts "aboard the cars," or the steamboats;
some of it at the hotels; and all of it on his feet,
and ready to "bolt."  The dinner table, too, is an
exchange for him. Business before soup-it is the
first course of the dinner, and the last. Between fish
and pudding he will sell a prairie. With every
mouthful of bread he will engage to deliver ten thousand  bushels  of wheat.   The  "upset  price"  is
knocked hard down on the table with the end of his
knife handle; and the bargain is clinched by help of
the nut cracker or the sugar tongs. If he sees his
next neighbor prefer mutton, he at once offers to sell
him sheep by the thousand; if he dines on pork, he
will invite him to go into a speculation in hogs. His
railroad shares he will dispose of at the price of peanuts; and his State bonds he will give away to any
one who will pay his champagne bill, and the piper
generally; or rather, he would do so a few years
ago. 
A WESTERN HOTEL.
I was not so ill as to prevent my getting down to
the table at mealtime. This was the chief amusement of my day, being as good a high-low comedy
as may be seen on any stage, at least west of the
Alleghanies. The table groans with good things.
Here are the veritable solids, and none of what the
Frenchman calls les choses maigres. The waiters
drop fatness, literally. Your plate is brought to you
heaped up with roast beef.  Every third man has his
pudding. The waiters hand about the iced cream in
slices, which suggest the resemblance of small prairies. And, finally, the dinner goes off, like the finale
of a display of fireworks, with "Jenny Lind cake,"
"vanities," c; cookeys," "lady fingers," "jelly snips,"
and " pecans."
The only difficulty is in getting little enough of
anything you may call for. Just a bit of a thingun morceau-is an impossibility. A thin cut can't be
had. A man, therefore, with a delicate stomach, is
entirely out of place here, where the arrangements
are all designed for persons who are ready to "go
the whole animal." When I came down in the evening, to get a cup of tea and a bite at a biscuit, I
never could escape the everlasting "Have a beefsteak, sir?" of the waiters.'Tis a great country out
West, and the men who live in it are feeders to correspond. They want their meat three times a day,
9
193
0 
194    TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
as regularly as poor Pat does when he leaves his
potato island and arrives in this land of beeves and
buffaloes. Even their horses have freer access to the
corn crib than negroes do in Virginia.  The Western
man expects to see plenty around him. Nothing is
too good for him. He never stops to count the cost.
Corn and wine are his-honey, and the honeycomb.
The cattle on a thousand acres are his also. The
prairies are white with his flocks; the eye follows
the waving grain to the horizon; the buffalo yields
him its tongue, the bear its haunches, and the buck
his saddle; the wild turkey is brought in from the
forests, the canvas-back duck from the bays, and the
pinnated grouse from the prairies; the sa]mon trout
is caught at MIackinaw, the whitefish fill the lakes,
and oysters "hermetically sealed" arrive by express
firom the seaboard, every day in their season.
There is plenty and to spare of all things, save of
art.  The kitchen is indeed no cuisine.  The cook is
not "abroad" in these parts.  He is coming, doubtless, in "the good time," but has not yet arrived.
Still there is, here and there, a pioneer from Paris,
come out to try his'prentice hand, and "rough it."
There was one such in my hotel; but both his dishes
and his French were execrable. He daily served up
such figures of speech as "Calf's head a la Financire," "Lamb chop santees," and "Macaroni a la
0 
A WESTERN HOTEL.
Italienare." These mistakes one might be disposed to
attribute to the printer-a "devil" on whom is heaped
a multitude of sins not his own; but the dishes themselves forbade it. Evidently these and their printed
names were by the same master, and were worthy
each of the other. However,'twas all Greek to the
majority of the " customers."  The gods on Olympus
did not know French, and the Western traveller
finds ambrosia in every platter, spite of the misspelling. He goes for the pates-finds them good,
and doesn't trouble his head about tihe patois. Still
there are. those-Connecticut men, no doubt, by origin-Who will not eat of any dish that has not a
plain Old Testament name to it. They admit of but
one exception. "I'll trouble you," said such a one
at my side, "to pass me that platter of shoat and
beans." He felt his native partialities melting in his
mouth, and could neither wait his turn nor be withstood.  "I'll just thank you, stranger, for that platter," he repeated, in a beseeching tone of voice,
which quickly moved my pity, at the same time
pointing and beckoning with both hands. After he
had" gone the whole hog," he asked the waiter if he
had any doughnuts.  "Doo-noots?" replied Pat, completely at his wit's end; "I'm a-thinkin' them noots
don't grow in this counthry, sir."  Upon my word, it
was the only thing I ever heard asked for at that table
195 
TO DIXIE AND THE ThOPICS.
which was not to be had. To console my neighbor, I
told him that doughnuts were plentiful in D —, for
I had seen them piled up there in tall pyramids, or
after the fashion of children's cob houses. Whereupon he informed me that he would stop a day at
D o- on his return.  I advised him to do so.
But the best part of the dinner remains to be discussed-'tis the waiters. I took more pleasure in
these than in anything they brought me. Of all
places in this country, I had always supposed that
New York was the one for seeing Paddy in his
truest and most emerald colors.  But'tis a mistake.
He is imported in still more native purity into the
West. It is said that the hotel keepers here send
out a practised hunter from the plains, who catches
Patrick in his wildest state by means of the lasso,
and forwards him "express" by way of the St. Lawrence and the lakes; so that he is landed at Chicago
without change of cloth or color. Then he is put
into cast-off clothes-not a particularly good fit-is
instructed to subdue his rebellious locks with pomatuin, and is set to serve tables. He pretty soon
learns what a beefsteak is, for he eats three a day
himself. At the same time he learns, experimentally,
the difference between wheat rolls and potatoes. In
the course of a week or two he gets pretty familiar
with the necessaries of life; and then begins to beat
196 
A WESTERff HOTEL.
his brains to learn the names of the luxuries of the
table.  He makes some progress until he gets to the
French dishes.   These  confound  him.   He  don't
know French at all, at all. If, at this stage of his
novitiate, you call upon him for a fricassee, he brings
you the fricandeau; if you demand a vol-au-vent,
he runs the whole length of the table for the pigeon
pie; if you wish for a mnringue glacee, he thinks'tis
a plate of ice; and if you order creme fouettee, he
asks if you will have it boiled. When you decide
upon roast beef, his question is, "Done, sir, or not
done?" Should you tell him, in selecting turkey, to
bring the drumstick, he would inquire if you meant
the stick he beats the gong with.  His ideas are all
as wild as prairie colts.
Still this is Patrick's palmy condition, and best
estate as a waiter. For, by the time he has served
out his apprenticeship, he is ruined for his trade. It
takes a certain number of months for him to get it
well into his head that he is in a free country; and
this idea, once fully comprehended, is enough to spoil
the best waiter that ever came from Ireland. HIavidg a few shillings rattling in his pocket, he realizes
the fact that he is his own man. Then he begins to
put on airs not in keeping with table waiting and
bottle washing. While serving at meals, he hangs
carelessly by your chair back, with greasy fingers;
197 
198      TO DIXIE AND THE T.ROPICS.
so that every day, after dinner, you have to send
your coat to the cleaner's to get the marks of the
beast rubbed out of it. He now knows fat firom
lean, tough from tender, and where the meat is
sweetest; but unless you fee him every second or
third morning, you will be none the better for his
increase of knowledge. Hle is disposed to be short
and crisp, as if belonging himself to the upper crust
of society.   He  laughs behind  your  back, with
Jimmy, at every small practical joke that may be
enacted at the tables. If a farmer asks for a bowl
of bread and milk for his supper, and then peppers
it, first black, then red, he laughs at that.  Or if a
gentleman, not being able to swallow water without
brandy to it, puts a glass of it into his soup, he
laughs at that. Every leisure moment he gathers
Jimmy and Dick together to chatter with them.
Then, if you call him, he is suddenly deaf as an
adder. He can neither hear nor see. And when the
guests gradually leave the table, and vrork slackens,
I have seen him lounge out on to the balcony, settle
himself in an armchair, cock his feet up over the railing, and quietly smoke his cigar.
Patrick is now ready for a strike for higher
wages. At the first word of reprimand he will
throw up his place.  He is too independent to be
drilled into line, and always takes the covers off out 
A WE8SIERN tHOYtEL.
of time. Look out for him when he comes in with
his platters-his very importance will run you down.
He is still ignorant, still awkward; but, with ten dol lars in his pocket, he is abashed by nothing in heaven
or earth; and unless hlie can have four beefsteaks a
day, he threatens to go back to Ireland.  The truth
is, that the sense of freedom is so strong at the
West, it spoils all men for service. Our naturaliza tion laws are annually the ruin of a great many ex cellent scullions and shoeblacks.   Nature struggles
hard on their side, but our republican institutions
prevail.
The society one meets in a Western hotel consists
principally of the gentlemen of the road. I mean
the railroad men, so called-road builders and road
owners. There are, also, the men of real estate, who
deal in prairie and river bottoms.  There are grain
and lumber merchants.   There  are speculators of
every kind. But all have only one thought in their
minds. To buy, sell, and get gain-this is the spirit
that pervades this house, and the country.   The
chances of making fortunes in business or speculation
are so great, that everybody throws the dice. Five
years hence every man expects to be a nabob. I saw
in the West no signs of quiet enjoyment of life as it
passes, but only of a haste to get rich. Here are no
idlers.  The poor-if any such there be-and the
199 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
wealthy are all equally hard at work. Beyond the
Alleghanies the day has no siesta in it. Life is a
race, with no chance of repose except beyond the
goal. The higher arts which adorn human existence
-elegant letters, divine philosophy-these have not
yet reached the Mississippi. They are far off. There
are neither gods nor graces on the prairies yet. One
sees only the sower sowing his seed.  No  poets
inhabit the savannas of Iowa, or the banks of the
Yellow Stone. These are the emigrants' homes.
Life in the valley of the Mississippi is, in fact, but
pioneering, and has a heavy pack to its back. At
present, the inhabitants are hewing wood and drawing water-laying the foundations of a civilization
which is yet to be, and such as never hath been
before. This they are doing with an energy superior
to that which built Carthage or Ilium. Though men
do not write books there, or paint pictures, there is
no lack, in our Western world, of mind. The genius
of this new country is necessarily mechanical. Our
greatest thinkers are not in the library, nor the capitol, but in the machine shop.  The American people
is intent on studying, not the beautiful records of a
past civilization, not the hieroglyphic monuments of
ancient genius, but how best to subdue and till the
soil of its boundless territories; how to build roads
and ships; how to apply the powers of nature to the
200 
A WESTERN HOTEL.
work of manufacturing its rich materials into forms
of utility and enjoyment. The youth of this country
are learning the sciences, not as theories, but with
reference to their application to the arts. Our education is no genial culture of letters, but simply
learning the use of tools. Even literature is cultivated for its jobs; and the fine arts are followed as
a trade.   The  prayer of this young  country is,
"Give us this day our daily bread;" and for the
other petitions of the Pater Noster it has no time.
So must it be for the present.  We  must be content
with little literature, less art, and only nature in perfection. We are to be busy, not happy. For we
live for futurity, and are doing the work of two
generations yet unborn
Everything is beautiful in its season.  What is
now wanted in this country is, that all learned blacksmiths stick to their anvils. No fields of usefulness
can be cultivated by them to so great advantage as
the floor of their own smithy. In good time, the
Western  bottom  lands  will  spontaneously  grow
poets. The American mind will be brought to maturity along the chain of the great lakes, the banks
of the M]ississippi, the Missouri, and their tributaries
in the far Northwest. There, on the rolling plains,
will be formed a republic of letters, which, not governed, like that on our seaboard, by the great literary
9*
201 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
powers of Europe, shall be free indeed.  For there
character is growing up with a breadth equal to the
sweep of the great valleys; dwarfed by no factitious
ceremonies or usages, no precedents or written statutes, no old superstition or tyranny. The winds
sweep unhindered, from the lakes to the gulf, from
the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains; and so do
the thoughts of the lord of the prairies. He is beholden to no man, being bound neither head nor
foot.   He  is an independent world himself,  and
speaks his own mind. Some day he will make his
own books, as well as his own laws.  He will not
send to Europe for either pictures or opinions.  He
will remain on his prairie, and all the arts of the
world will come and make obeisance to him, like the
sheaves in his fields. He will be the American manl,
and beside him there will be none else.
Of course, one does not go to the West to study
fashions or manners. The guests of a Western hotel
would not bear being transported to Almack's without some previous instruction in bowing and scraping,
or some important changes of apparel.   Foreign
critics, travelling in pursuit of the comical, do not
fail of finding it here in dress, in conversation, in
conduct: for men here show all their idiosyncrasies.
There are no disguises. Speech is plump, hearty,
aimed at the bull's eye; and without elegant phrase
202 
A WVESTERN HOTEL.
or compliment.   On the road, one may meet the
good Samaritan, but not Beau Brummell. Anything
a Western man can do for you, he will do with all
his heart; only he cannot flatter you with unmeaning
promises. You shall be welcome at his cabin; but
he cannot dispense his hospitality in black coat and
white cravat. His work is too serious to be done in
patent leathers. He is, in outward appearance, as
gnarled as his oaks, but brave, strong, humane, with
the oak's great heart and pith. The prairie man is a
six-foot animal, broad shouldered and broad foreheaded; better suited to cutting.up corn than cutting a figure in a dance, to throwing the bowie knife
than to thrumming the guitar. In Europe, a man
always betrays a consciousness of the quality of the
person in whose presence he is standing. If he face
a lord, it is with submission; if a tradesman, with
haughtiness; if a servant, with authority; if,a beggar, with indifference.   At the West, two persons
meeting stand over against each other like two doorposts. Neither gives signs of superiority or inferiority. They have no intention of either flattering or
imposing upon each other. Words are not wasted.
So is the cut of each other's coat a matter of perfect
indifference.  Probably the man who is "lip for Congress" wears the shabbier one of the two. If disposed to make a show at all, the' Western gent is
203 
TO DIXIE AN-D TIlE TROPICS.
more apt to be proud of his horses than his broadcloth. His tread may occasionally have something
in it indicative of the lord of the prairie; but he has
little or no small nonsense about him. The only
exception is, perhaps, a rather large-sized diamond
pin in his shirt bosom.
The Western cockney differs considerably from
him of New York.   He has more of the "readymade-clothing" appearance about him, and wears his
hat drawn closer down over his left eye. Sometimes his cigar is in his buttonhole, and sometimes
in his cheek. He chews tobacco. He vibrates between shelTy cobblers and mint juleps. His stick is
no slight ratan, but a thick hickory or buckeye, and
has a handle large enough to allow of its being carried suspended from his shoulder. His watch chain
is very heavy- lead inside, and gold out.   He is
learned in politics, and boasts that a United States
senator from his State once put his arm around his
neck, and slapped him familiarly between the shoulders. When he was in Washington, he messed with
the Western members of the House; and, as Botts
did with President Tyler, he slept with them. He
knows, personally, all the Western judges and generals in Congress; bets at all the elections; and
makes money out of them, let whichever party conquer. He also goes in the steamboats whenever
204 
A WESTERN HOTEL.
there is to be a race; plays "poker" on board, and
lives on the profits. He has a small capital in wild
lands, likewise, and owns a few corner lots in Cairo,
and other cities laid down in his maps. These he
will sell cheap for cash. He affects the man of busi ness, and ignores ladies' society. His evenings are
spent at a club house, having the name of "Young
America" blazoned on its front in large gilt letters.
He dines at the crack hotel of the town; and, hav ing free passes over all railroads, he keeps up his
importance in the world by going to and fro, and
putting on the airs of a man owning half the West ern country.
A family of Germans going by the hotel, one
morning, as I sat by the window, struck me as the
most remarkable show I had seen in the West. It
was, indeed, nothing new or uncommon; it was no
pageant. No trumpets were blown to announce the
coming of this small detachment of the army general. Probably not a soul in the city noticed the
passage of this poor family, save myself. Yet in it
was wrapped up the great American fact of the present day-the coming in of European immigrants to
take possession of our Western plains. If these
States did not have lands for sale at low prices, to
attract the desires of the poor and the oppressed in
all the earth, they would be of.little importance
205 
TO DIXIE A4ID THE TROPICS.
among the nations. For centuries the Swiss have
had liberty, but no land; and have been a nullity.
But we hold a homestead for every poor man in
Europe; and, therefore, gathering his pennies together, he is setting out for America, as the world's
land of promise, and the only Eden now extant.
The father strode down the middle of the street.
Unaccustomed to the convenience of sidewalks in his
own country, he shared the way with the beasts of
burden, no less heavily laden than they. His back
bent beneath its pack. In it was, probably, the better part of his goods and chattels-at least the materials for a night bivouac by the roadside. By one
hand he held his pack, and in the other he carried
a large teakettle. His gudewife followed in his
tracks, at barely speaking distance behind. A babe
at the breast was her only burden. Both looked
straight forward, intent only upon putting one foot
before the other. In a direct line, but still farther
behind, trudged on, with unequal footsteps, and eyes
staring on either side, their firstborn son, or one who
seemed such. There were well toward a dozen summers glowing in his face. A big tin pail, containing, probably, the day's provisions, and slung to his
young shoulders, did not seem to weigh too heavily
upon his spirit. He travelled on bravely, and was
evidently trained to bear his load. A younger
206 
A WESTERN HOTEL.
brother brought up, at a few paces' distance, the
rear; carrying, astride his neck, one more of the
parental hopes. It was the most precious pack in
the party, and, judging from the size of the little
onlle's legs, not so very much the lightest. It was a
sister, I fancy, that the little fellow was bearing off
so gallantly; and very comfortably did she appear to
be making the journey.
I watched this single file of marchers Westward
until they disappeared at the end of the avenue.
They would not stop, or turn aside, save for needful
food and shelter, until they had crossed the Missouri.
On'the rolling prairies beyond, the foot-worn travel lers would reach their journey's end, and, throwing
their weary limbs upon the flowery grass, would rest
in their new home, roofed by the sky of Kansas.
Before the frosts of autumn should set in, the log
hut would be reared, and their small household gods
set up in it. In due season the sod would be turned,
the seed cast in, and, later, the harvest would make
glad all hearts.  Years rolling by, the boys will grow
up freemen, and will make the surrounding acres
tributary in wheat and corn, as far as the eye can
reach. Forgetting their uncouth patois, the children
will learn the softer Anglo-Saxon accents of liberty,
and take their place among their equal fellows in a
society where none are bondsmen. The daughters,
207 
208      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
relieved of the hard necessity of toiling in the fields,
will gradually grow up in the delicacy of native
American beauty, retaining only the blue eyes and
golden hair of their German nativity. In the evening of their days, the brave grandparents will sit in
the shadow of vines sprung from seeds piously
brought by them from the Neckar or the Rhine;
and their sons, and their sons' sons, in the enjoyment
of plenty, happiness, and human rights, will remember, with blessings, the original immigrants; and
founders of their name. 
CHAPTER XIX.
Frown New Orleans to Havana.
N  returning to New Orlear/s, I learned that an
unusually large number of persons were to
sail by the next steamer for Havana, and that all the
staterooms had been engaged. What was to be
done?-for go I must. The ship's agent could only
suggest that I should go on board, and make application for accommodations to the purser, relying upon
the rule of the ship, First come, frst served. Accordingly, to the purser I immediately went. He-a
half Spaniard, as I guessed-entered my name as the
first applicant for accommodations next in order
after the staterooms; whereupon I departed in
peace.
"Queda Usted con Dios," said L.
"Vaya Usted coan Dios," said he.
Not until after the steamer was'well under way 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
did I give the purser any more trouble. Then I
civilly asked for a room.
"The ladies," he replied, "must be accommodated first. I will give your wife a berth in a room
with two other ladies; and when the turn of the
gentlemen comes, I will see what I can do for you."
The turn of the gentlemen came in the course of
the evening; and what did I get?  A berth?  Not
at all. A sofa? Not even that. They had all been
previously given out-to the last comers.
"Can you tell me, then, Mr. Purser, what I, the
first comer, am to do?"
"You can go to the steward, sir, who will give
you a mattress, pillow, and blanket, which you can
'locate' at pleasure in any part of the ship not otherwise occupied."
Now this was not pleasant; more particularly so,
considering that I had received from the ship's agent
a passage ticket purporting, in consideration of
money duly paid, to give me room, berth, and conveyance from the port of New Orleans to that of
Havana. Moreover, I had strictly observed the rule
laid down by said agent, to make early application
for accommodations to the purser on board. In
view  of these facts, therefore, I resolved that I
would have something more satisfactory from the
official, or-sink the ship.
210 
FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HA tVAA.  211
My first broadside took effect.  The purser at
once opened his eyes to see what manner of man I
was-a compliment not before paid me —and, having
apparently satisfied his curiosity, he straightway referred to his book, wherein it appeared that sofa No.
3, in the ladies' cabin, still remained unoccupied.
This he gave me; adding, with civil words, that I
would be far more comfortable on that sofa than the
unhappy individuals who had been crowded, three
deep, into staterooms.
What the purser said proved to be true.   At
least, I was far more comfortable during the three
nights of the voyage than were many of the passengers in my immediate vicinity. These lay about the
cabin in all possible places.  Some lay on the tables,
and some under'them. Some slept on trunks, and
others on the floor.  My next neighbor, whose thin
mattress had been stretched upon a couple of large
Yankee trunks, bristling all over with tall brass
knobs, passed the night in torment; because, as he
said, the knobs pierced completely through the mattress, and some distance into him. I believed it, for
his breathing was that of a man in an agony. From
time to time, in the night, uneasy sleepers might be
seen taking up their beds, and walking to different
parts of the cabin, with a view to bettering their
condition. One poor gentleman, whose bed, for lack 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
of mattress, consisted of seven small pillows, trans ported them from place to place, tied up in his blan ket; but, arrange them in whatever part of the ship
he might, the pillows would get out of position in
his sleep, and let him down on the floor. One night,
when, after unusual pains, he had succeeded, past
midnight, in making himself comfortable over a
hatchway, judge of his consternation on being shaken out of the first profound sleep it had been his
happiness to enjoy on shipboard-say, rather, his
indignation on being rudely shaken by the shoulders,
and requested to get up, because, forsooth, the hold
below was occupied by a waiter, whom, at the hour
of four in the morning, it was necessary to let out
of his prison, that he might begin his day's work in
good season.
"Hope I don't disturb you, sir?" said Patrick to
the gentleman, as the former climbed up out of his
sub-deck resting place; and adding politely, if familiarly:
"When you is among the Romans, you know,
you must do as the Romans does."
The sofa next to mine was, early one evening,
taken possession of by a traveller recently returned
from California, who, at bedtime, refused to yield it
to the rightfull occupant. In vain did the latter show
his ticket; the former declared that he had paid for
212 
FROM NEW ORLEANS TO 0HAVANA.
his passage, and had good right to sit or lie wherever
or whenever he pleased; and, what was more, he
refused to be searched on the high seas for the purpose of having this claim verified.  He would go to
the bottom first. Thereupon, the inoffensive and
rather timid passenger, having scrutinized the countenance of the Californian, and finding it exceedingly hirsute, and the nose broken-a sort of halfSocrates, half-alligator physiognomy- sorrowfully
went his way, and left his formidable enemy in possession. He did well; for, in the course of the day
preceding, the face of this "ugly customer"  happening to pass before my eyes, I had, on the instant,
made the observation that this traveller had, beyond
a doubt, osseous deposits under the dura mater.  It
was a case of chronic suffering from the violence of
an ungovernable temper.
The man who waited on me at table, by the way,
had a similar ossification, which engendered such a
degree of ill nature as would have completely unfitted him for his station, had not his temper been happily modified by an original vein of good humor.
As an example of it: one day, the gentleman who
sat at the head of the table, a large, pompous citizen
from Arkansas, calling to the waiter in an unnecessarily loud voice for a piece of pie, the latter, on
handing it to him, said, in a strong, Hibernian
accent, and tone scarcely less sonorous:
213 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
"Pumpkin pie, sir, by G-d!"
I managed to sleep very comfortably on my sofa;
but, having no room, how was I to make my toilet?
On going to the barber's for that purpose, I found
the door locked; and the barber, in reply to my
knocking, cried out that I could not come in, for he
"was going to wash  himself."  HIowever, I succeeded, every morning, in finding a place for ablution; until, at last, I fell in with a couple of gentlemen, friends of the purser, who were in possession of two staterooms, one of which they used
for making their toilets in, and where they were
so polite as to allow me to make mine. But, well
as they were accommodated, one pf their berths
was so short that the occupant had to lie with his
legs either tied up in a knot, or extended out of
the porthole. In fact, nobody on board had comfortable quarters, except the officers of the ship,
who seemed to regard their passengers somewhat in
the light of so many cattle being transported to market. As for the captain, his whole duty appeared to
consist, as far as I could observe, ill putting on a
clean shirt every morning, and carefully refraining
from saying anything to anybody. At any rate, the
only time I heard him make a remark, was on one
occasion, when civilly asked by an innocent youth,
evidently travelling for the sake of storing his mind
214 
FROM XEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA.  215
with useful information, what the distance was from
New Orleans to Hlavana, he unfeelingly'replied:
"As near as can well be calculated, it is a distance of forty-eight cigars and twelve brandy cocktails."
True, the appearance of the crowd at table might
have suggested the idea that the steamer was a
second Noah's ark, full of animals; for there was
much fast eating on board. Every one had to be in
his place the moment the gong sounded, and expeditiously perform the duty of mastication after getting there; otherwise he would find himself put, to
all intents and purposes, on short allowance. When,
on the first day, attempting to dine methodically, I
arrived in due course at the roast beef, the waiter
informed me that-to use his own phrase-it was all
"paid out." Tenderloin steaks there certainly were
to the last in the ship's larder; for I saw the steward
and captain's boy eating them at breakfast the morning before our arrival. Somebody, also-probably
the purser-must have had fresh eggs, as I heard the
hens cackling.   But one of my neighbors declared
to me, after the very first dinner, that he could eat
no more pie; for, on cutting one, he had found a
large stick of sugar candy in it, and feared to try
another, lest it should be made of candle ends. Nor
w-as it safe, in drinking, to go much beyond the ice
I 
lTO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
water-which, I am happy to say, was both good
and abundant. But the claret tasted as though it
had been sweetened with sugar of lead, to prevent
the acetous fermentation; and I heard the ship's
doctor begging brandy of a passenger for his patients, on the ground that that in the storeroom was
made of Wilmington whiskey.
But if there was some hurry and confusion in the
forward cabin at mealtime, there were sufficiently
odd things taking place in the ladies' cabin at all
times. At the commencement of the voyage, I
heard gentlemen politely requesting ladies to give up
staterooms, to which the latter had no good claim
beyond that of present possession. One woman, not
faneying the upper berth which had fallen to her lot,
inasmuch as it would require an inconvenient amount
of climbing to get into it, quietly removed the par.
cels from the middle one, where they had been de posited by the rightful occupant, and filled it, in stead, with her own person. When remonstrated
with for such an uncivil proceeding, she very coolly
gave for answer:
"But I am just returned from California!"
An unanswerable argument. And, moreover, as
possession is always nine tenths of the law, so it cer tainly is quite equal to the entire right to a bed. It
would have required half the force of the ship's
216 
FROF NEW ORLEANS TO HA VAXA.  217
crew, doubtless, to get that Californian out of the
berth of her own choosing; and so, not to make too
deplorable a scene, she was allowed to have her own
way in it. Furthermore, there was a dashing South western lady on board, who could spit as far as a
man.  And there was another, so addicted to "dip ping "-that is to say, dipping the Althea root in snuff,
and then brushing the teeth with it-that her hus band was said to have offered her a thousand dollars
to relinquish the practice. She had done so for six
weeks, but then resumed it. I saw raisins and
almonds carried away from table in moire antique
pockets, and pecan nuts picked to pieces on deck by
fingers jewelled heavily. All the Spaniards on board
were, if the steward was to be believed, half negroes, whom he would gladly have put at a separate
table. There certainly was no lack of traders of the
Jewish persuasion; nor of travelling bagmen, who
concealed their bags in their trunks and valises.
Moses, from the New York Bowery, dressed in genteel broadcloth, a heavy gold chain dangling from
his fob, and a diamond twinkling in his shirt bosom,
walked the deck with the air of a gallant out on
adventures, and smoked his cigars with heels as high
in the air as any Christian.
Of course, there were a number of well-bred and
well-behaved ladies and gentlemen in this crowd
10 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
of passengers; though, as everybody knows, it is
a severe test of good manners  in both man  and
woman to make a voyage at sea. And this one, certainly, did not fail to furnish illustrations of the
truth, that, sometimes, persons who are accustomed
to move in the fashionable circles of society will,
when removed out of them, both do and say things
not quite becoming their station. Then, again, it is
plainly true, whether on land or water, that if aspirants for social position would only take as much
pains really to be ladies and gentlemen as they do to
seem such, they would accomplish their purpose with
half the trouble.
218 
CHA P TER  XX.
A Havana Iotel.
THREE  days of sailing brought me to the ever       faithful island so coveted by our filibusters;
and, passing the lIoro at sunrise, I entered the beautiful harbor of Havana. As the sun came up over
the low hills, covered with forts, or tufted with
palms and orange trees, it threw a variegated light
over the wide expanse of water, staining it like some
great cathedral window. And on this gorgeous mirror lay a multitude of ships of all nations-hulks,
spars, and rigging, to the very ensigns, all reflected
below. There were among them ships of war, threedeckers, and frigates; also the clipper ships of the
Yankees, and the heavy hulls of Old Spain; lateen
sail boats, likewise, and the official wherries of the
custom house: these latter gracefully moving to the
stroke of their ten oars, having a little man in a
brass hatband sitting under an awning, and the red 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
and yellow of the royal colors languidly drooping
over the stern.
The officer of a Spanish port always proceeds to
the discharge of his duties with a considerable degree of deliberation; and so it happened that my
first experience of Cuban travel began with an hour
or two's waiting. During this time, the ship became gradually surrounded by a fleet of small boats,
all offering their services to the stranger for the purpose of conveying him and his luggage to the shore;
but all waiting, also, with as much patience as if that
were their normal condition. At last, however, came
the little great man, with his badges of office, and
gave permission to the impatient crowd not only to
go on shore, but to do so without any of the formalities insisted on in the mother country, unless it were
that of paying the boatmen double the rates which
by law they were entitled to. A fee of a couple of
dollars carried me comfortably through the custom
house; and then a commissioner, a porter, and a cart
took myself and effects to my first Havanese hotel.
The old established American houses being full
of guests, we were obliged to go to one less known
to fame. Even here the landlady received us with
the declaration that she had not a vacant room in the
house, having just given up to four gentlemen the
chamber of her duenna; but she would see, after
220 
A HA VA NA IHOTEL.
breakfast, what she could do for us. So we waited
another couple of hours. By that time the landlady
had concocted the proposition that la Senora should
occupy a room in common with two or three other
ladies; and el Sefior should be quartered in the best
corner of the drawing room there was left. This,
however, was not promising much for him, inasmuch
as the more retired and eligible half of the room was
already occupied, and partitioned off by a curtain.
As we demurred at any such arrangement, we were
again requested to wait until it could be seen what
might be done. We accordingly waited. But, at
the end of an hour more, our patience was rewarded
by the gift of the best room in the house.
It was  a spacious chamber, with walls  from
twenty to thirty feet in height, papered, and much
gilded. The floor was laid in marble. The large
double doors, three in number, were glazed, and
served as windows; there being no other opening
excepting one small one situated ten or fifteen feet
above the floor. Of furniture there was only too
great a supply for comfort; inasmuch as, being the
property of the previous occupant, it was every day
taken away, piece by piece, by a servant who came
at all hours for that purpose. Wardrobes in rosewood, the elegant escritoire, tables inlaid with pearl,
gilded chairs, Spanish pictures hanging on the walls,
221 
TO DIXIE AILD THfF TROl'ICS.
and a great variety of smaller articles, all gradually
disappeared and wasted away. In the end, very
little was left, save one of the three rocking chairs,
a cane sofa, and a bed without a mattress, but spread
with white linen edged with lace, and covered with
a mosquito net delicate as woven mist, and looped up
with blue satin ribbons. The bed had the advantage
of being suited to the climate; but its sacking, having been overstretched by the avoirdupois of the previous occupant-a Spanish lady past the age of forty
-had finally assumed the form of a hammock.
But, floor and furniture being covered with dust,
our first endeavors were directed toward prevailing
on the landlady to send us a servant equipped for
sweeping. It was long before one came, and he
turned out to be a mozo; for the boys are chambermaids in this cotuntry. At length, the dust removed,
we desired to have the necessary materials for washing brought.  These came in slow succession, one by
one; first the pitchers of water; after a quarter of
an hour, the basins; after another quarter, the towels.  Last of all appeared the slop pail; it being,
apparently, an article hard to be found in the house,
and was, in fact, no more than a large tin pan, which
evidently had seen service in the kitchen.
Then, finally, we unlocked our trunks; but, alack!
the glass doors opening into the drawing room were
222 
A HAVANA HOTEL
too imperfectly glazed to furnish the degree of privacy desirable in a dressing room. A too inquisitive
eye might easily look through them. So another
consultation was held with the landlady respecting
the possibility of curtains. At first she gazed at us
with a face of amazement, saying the room had
always been occupied by Spanish ladies just as it
was; but, finally, granted for screen an extra towel.
Thereupon we dressed for dinner; for it was time to
do so.
After a voyage by sea, we wished, of course, to
have the services of a laundress. But nobody in the
house, from mistress to maid, could tell us how they
were to be obtained.   The former declared that
ladies were in the habit of sending their linen by
steamer to Charleston to be washed! It could, indeed, be sent out of the city; but it would never be
brought back again-unless you went for it yourself
in a volante. This was sufficiently discouraging;
though not enough so to make one lose all confidence
in his own vwits.
Accordingly, I determined on sallying out of the
house in search of a laundress; and, after much
inquiry, found an excellent one in Lucy, a black
womani living in the Calle Lamparilla, who not only
washes linen very well, and for reasonable compensation, but is herself a dowager, valued'at some twenty
223 
224      TO IDIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
or thirty thousand dollars, more or less, besides being
largely endowed with the gift of the gab. In order
to persuade so independent a washerwoman to lend
me her services, I had, of course, to begin with
praising everything in Havana. And I began with
the plantains.
"Gracious goodness!" broke in Lucy,  "nothing so good in dis world as plantains. Fry'em
when dey full ripy. Must have fresh pork fat,
Sefior. Oh, la! I tell you dey too good for niggers!-bha! ha! ha!"
In a hotel, an inefficient office makes an insubordinate kitchen. So, in ours, the servants were all the
time at sixes and sevens; and there existed a chronic
row in the household. At best, having their heads
turned by the excessive number of guests, the servants could scarcely put two ideas together-not
even such simple ones as those of coffee and sugar.
Still, the meals provided were more palatable than
could have been expected under the.circumstances.
The bread, as everywhere in Cuba, was excellent.
Good oil was better than bad butter would have
been; and on fried rice and plantains anybody ought
to be able to make a pleasant breakfast. A shadow
of doubt, it must be allowed, sometimes rested on
the freshness of the eggs; as vwhen, one morning,
the waiter, instead of executing his order, came back 
A HA VA NA  0 IOTEL.
with the significant declaration, "The eggs won't
poach to-day, Sefilor!"  There was a liberal supply
of Catalonian wine; though this, to be sure, did not
sometimes make its appearance on the table until
after everybody had drunk himself full of water.
And, finally, the parlor had to serve for dining hall
as well as bedroom. The guests were mostly Yankees; and among them, as it happened, were half a
dozen newly married couples, who had come to the
island for the purpose of enjoying their honeymoon.
But a row of more disconsolate brides, as they sat at.
table the day after my arrival, I had never seen before.  They appeared at breakfast with from ten
to twenty flea or mosquito bites on necks, arms,
and faces; and every one of them looking as
though she might have spent the whole night in
a fight with these small diablos. No doubt they
had so passed the time, excepting the hour or two
occupied in rubbing the Cuban starch out of their
night dresses..Those of them who had rooms on
the street, complained that they could not sleep,
if for no other reason, on account of the noise made
by the watchmen, who all night long kept crying the
hours, down to the very halves and quarters. And
in the early morning the cries of these worthy guardians of repose were succeeded by the crowing of
cocks, the barking of dogs, the creaking of carts,
10*
225 
TO DIXIE ANDV- THE TROPICS.
and the chattering of a population which gets out of
bed before sunrise. Much as ever did these expectants of matrimonial bliss escape the necessity of
making their own beds, and of dusting their chambers.  Nor, if they transgressed Cubani etiquette
so far as to appear in the streets on foot, did they
fail to be most unmercifully stared at. In fact, so
many batteries of black eyes were unmasked upon
them wherever they showed themselves in public,
that they came home pretty well disconcerted, and
~were even afraid, considering the number of Spanish
gentlemen who sat smoking in the drawing room, to
stay in the house without their husbands.  I heard
of India shawls being promised some of them, on
their return to the States, if they would not be homesick. And in one case, where such promises of
future bliss did not suffice to dissipate present gloom
and terror, money was put in the fair one's pockets,
and she was sent off to buy Spanish fans and laces.
This expedient probably brought relief.
While I think of it-there was another couple
of American ladies in Havana at the time of my
visit, who were promised by their husbands each a
half dozen pineapple dresses, on condition that they
would spend six weeks on the island without pouting. So, drying their eyes, they determined to hunt
the town for these precious fabrics. They had been
226 
A HA VA NA HOTEL.
told-probably by some gentleman who was a bit of
a wag-that the best pineapples were to be had at
Sagrado's. And for Sagrado's they accordingly
set off.
Now Don Juan de Dios de Escalera de Sagrado
was one of the principal bankers of the town, besides being a bachelor of long standing. So, when
the two fine ladies from the States, attended by their
flunky to act as interpreter, on being shown into the
presence of this well-known financier and old Christian-cristiano viejo-asked to see his pineapples, he
replied, opening his eyes a little wider than usual,
that he had no pineapples.
"Oh, yes!" rejoined they;  "you surely have
pineapples!  We were told you had the very best in
town."
By this time the banker began to feel a little
vexed inwardly, as well as perplexed to imagine
what could have brought a couple of fashionable
ladies to his bureau on such an errand, at the late
hour of five o'clock, when he was just on the point
of going to eat his dinner. Therefore, adopting as
decided a tone of voice as his politeness would admit
of, he said to them:
"Ladies, you are mistaken in the man."
This very explicit declaration brought  the two
visitors to their senses. Looking each other in the 
TO I)IXIE AiD THE TROPICS.
face, and suspecting that something was wrong
somewhere, they now turned to the banker with the
half assertion, half apology:
"Then it must be some other Sagrado.  Please
inform us where we can find the shop of the Sagrado
who sells pineapples."
"I beg pardon. No man of my name has ever
sold pineapples in Havana!" firmly retorted the
Don, in an agony of rage, which it took all his highbred gallantry to suppress.
And, with these words, he gravely bowed the
fair intruders out of his bureau-who, for their part,
felt, on reaching the bottom of the stairway, as if
they had been let down from a considerable elevation.
Having seen about enough of life in this Hlavanese hotel, I was just on the point of making up my
mind to move to a house out of town, when the landlord very opportunely raised the rent on me. As I
appeared to be enjoying myself exceedingly, extracting almostas much satisfaction out of everything
that went wrong as out of everything that went
right, he probably thought that I was anchored in
his bedroom for the remainder of the season, and
suddenly ran the price of my lodgings up to ten dollars per day. The excuse alleged for this impropriety was, that the room was big enough to hold four
228 
AA LVANA HOTEL.
persons comfortably. And, moreover, it was de clared that such four persons were impatiently waiting to take possession. Mythic personages, I had
not a doubt. However, I did not stop to debate the
question with him, but told him, at once, that the
room was entirely at his disposition-d a dispostcion
de Usted.  There was a heavy and sudden fall in the
landlord's countenance when I informed him that I
should no longer consider his house as my own.
But I was inexorable; for who likes to have the rent
raised over him? Yet I rather suggested than expressed my congratulations that he should have such
a convenient number of candidates in readiness for
the premises to be vacated; and also sincerely wished
in my heart that these four persons, being Christians,
might not all be compelled to sleep in that single
bed; still less that any of them should be lodged on
the cane sofa, inasmuch as, it having no curtains,
they would certainly be devoured by the mosquitos.
But I will do the room the justice to say, that, as
there were no mats nor rugs on the marble floor, so
there were no fleas under them. Not even in the
bed were there any fleas; so that we were not
obliged, as in Old Spain, to spend half the night,
taper in hand, diligently searching for these animalcules; nor did we therefore suffer the least inconvenience from having forgotten to take with us to
229 
230     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the ever-faithful isle what little remained of our
Italian flea-powder.
The next thing to be done, then, was to get out
of the house.   But to leave a Cuban hotel against
the wishes of the landlord, is like weighing an
anchor which has sunk several fathoms deep into the
mud. In this instance, Boniface, after due reflection, found himself utterly unable to inform me of
any method whereby I could leave his house in season to go, next day, to Matanzas. In the art of
speeding the parting guest he seemed a perfect
dunce. He did not know whether a porter could be
engaged at so late an hour of the evening, it being
then seven o'clock; but he would ask the chief boy,
or mozo. Going out, accordingly, he soon brought
in the mozo, who, after sitting-or rather standingupon the question, submitted to him with the gravity
of a most learned judge, finally came to the conclusion that he did not know whether, at so late an
hour of the evening, a porter could be engaged, or
not.  The porters generally left town for the country at sundown.   Moreover, the landlord was not
sure that a volante, though paid over night the price
of two dollars and twelve cents for taking me, without baggage, to the railway station the next morning, could be relied upon for keeping his appointment.   The mozo suggested that, considering that 
A HA VA NA HIOTEL.
the train was to leave at half past five o'clock, the
volante might, very likely, be a few minutes too late.
Nor, finally, could either master or man say that, in
their opinion, it would be entirely safe to send the
trunks off at so early an hour. They might be stolen on the way. Indeed, the mozo seemed to think
the chances were about three to one that they would
be stolen, unless he himself followed the porter.
Here, then, was a small Gordian knot; but one
very easily cut by my dismissing both of my  advisers, and coming to the conclusion to take lodgings
for a few days in the pretty suburb of the Cerro.
Thence, it was to be hoped, the departure for Matanzas might be more feasible.
231
-4k 
CHA P TER XXI.
MXy  First  Volcante.
UT  I did not leave the city for the suburbs
before  having seen and enjoyed it.  And
among the things first to be enjoyed in Havana is,
of course, the volante. The drive I took on the day
of my arrival being not for pleasure, but for business, was, indeed, without ceremony, or such parade
as one delights in on the Havanese paseos. On this
occasion I contented myself with ordering the mozo
to get a carriage from the public square, telling him
to take the first and best one he should find.
"How much is it the pleasure of the Sefior to
give for the hour?" inquired the boy, palmleaf in
hand.
"What is the legal fee?" I asked, in reply.
"Fifty cents, Sefior; but they ask more." 
"Very well; I will give a dollar."
The boy went away, and, returning, said there 
MY FIRST VOLANTE.
was a negro in boots at the door; but he would not
go for a dollar. Thereupon word was sent to him
that he might depart in peace-que el vaya con
Dios; and the boy was directed to find another
charioteer, who would be contented with double the
fee allowed by law.
This time he came back bringing with him a
most sorry-looking black boy in slippers. Hiis volante would answer the purpose; and so would his
horse, albeit the animal's tail was braided, and tied
up over his back to the saddle; but the fellow's coat
was rather the worse for wear, and was neither yellow nor scarlet, but of a dull middle tint, produced
by long exposure to the rays of the sun; and his
feet were in slippers, without stockings. I observed,
however, that he possessed a pair of well-developed
heels, stoutly shod with spurs, besides having a
tough thong in his hand capable of doing good service. And so, without stopping to reflect upon the
consequences, I pleased myself with the idea of
making a dash through the town in the vehicle of
this comically accoutred Jehu.
This I accordingly did. The fellow drove pellmell through the narrow streets, running, at the very
first.corner, into an ox cart. But this gave an oppor
tunity for observing the fine bullocks which were
harnessed by the head to the tongue of the vehicle,
233 
.'TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
having broadly branching horns, large, dark eyes,
and the beautiful dun color of the oxen of Italy.
Getting extricated from the cart, my driver cracked
his whip smartly around the haunches of his tough
little steed; and, at the same time, made his bow to
a big negress that went by, holding her petticoat up,
and puffing away at an enormous cigar, which she
grasped between her ivory as she grinned. But if
my man tore through the streets and lanes at the top
of his bent, he had, nevertheless, to turn the corners
gently, inasmuch as both horse and rider were several yards in advance of the carriage. Once on the
way, the fellow was so unlucky as to overtake a
funeral procession; and, his horse being at the time
pretty well blown, he seemed to be very willing to
accept the excuse for bringing down the animal's
speed to a walk; and so, for a short distance, we fell
into line, as if we were the hindmost weepers, and
constituted the very cue of the mourning.
On this drive, my attention happening to be particuLlarly attracted to the colored part of the population, I observed that they were decidedly superior in
physical structure to the blacks of our Southern
States. I saw many tall men and strapping nlegresses.  Several of the latter had their arms set
off with bracelets washed in gold, and their fingers
with enormous rings of similar material. Others
234 
MfY FIRST VO,ANTE.
wore showy coral earrings, besides stones more or
less precious; while nearly all were elaborately
tatooed ad la mode Africaine. In addition to this
finery, the head was generally wound about with
gaudy handkerchiefs; but they sported no crinoline
of any kind beyond a single loose gown. A cigar,
however, long drawn and portly, graced the lips of
the principal wenches, who knew how to carry it
cocked up as jauntily as any hidalgo, and were also
expert in the art of holding it between their teeth
through all their chattering, grinning, and even haha-ing. Several neatly dressed and respectable-looking dames of color, being apparently of the higher
class of house servants, I met airing themselves in
volantes, and looking down upon the world in the
streets from a point of elevation not a whit lower
than was my own. Indeed, if there be any truth in
Don Jose Francisco y Rodriguez, Oficial de la Real
Hacienda, these slaves were as well coached as the
most powerful potentate could be.   "Pues," says
this Havanese Ford, in his learned guide book,
"puesto uno de estos carruages en el paseo, en nada
se diferencia del mas fuerte potentado, tanto in librea
como en adornos; y lo que es mas, lo m6dico de sus
precios." * One or two colored gentlemen, also, I
* Translation: "Since, in one of these carriages on the paseo,
one does not differ from the most powerful potentate, whether in
livery or trappings; and, what is more, the price is moderate."
235 
TO 1)JIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
passed in the course of my drive, dressed so completely according to the latest fashions, and demeaning themselves with such perfect propriety, that I
was at no loss to recognize in them the free negro,
and possessor of a handsome little fortune.
Ini good time, my postilion, sans toggery, brought
me safely back to the hotel.  I was thankful for itunusually so-because, in twice crossing a railroad,
the thought occurred to me that, the shafts of the
carriage being of such a ridiculous length, the train
might smash me long after my man and horse had
got over the track, and were entirely out of danger.
236 
CHAPTER XXII.
Dolce Far  Niente.
THERE is a peculiar, indescribable charm in life
on this island. The air possesses an extraordinary degree of vitality, which invigorates the human
system, and makes all the wheels of life move with
less friction, and more regularity. Though a warm
climate, one feels braced by it. Happy, he knows
scarcely why, the stranger finds that he requires but
few resources for his entertainment. To sit in the
shade of the palm trees, to lean over a balcony
which faces the street, to recline in an easy chair in
rooms with floors of marble, high ceilings, and doors
and windows standing wide open, is as pleasant
amusement as one need wish for. It is as good as a
play in other countries, to look down into any Cuban
courtyard, where the business of a great household
is being conducted; as, for example, into that of my
Havana hotel, in one corner of which a small wine 
238    7TO -DIXYIE ANV-D IHE TROPICS.
merchant stored his bottles and boxes; while on a
table, in another, half a dozen cross-legged tailors
plied their needles in mending old clothes.   The
streets of the town abound in odd, comical sights;
and the quays are an ever-interesting spectacle,
where one witnesses the lading and the unlading of
the ships of all nations. All men so enjoy life in
this tropical city, that they rise early in the morning,
and go to their work, or their pleasure, in the cool
of the day. For every early morning, when the air
is fresh and exhilarating, is like a small cup of the
elixir of life. The evenings, likewise, are serene,
efulgent with stars, or full of moonlight.  Indeed,
in this Eden, as in that one originally prepared for
the enjoyment of man, it is the evening and the
morning which make the day. At noon, when the
sun has half done his task, there is a short pause in
the life both of man and beast. Business rests for
an hour after its fatigue; pleasure takes its siesta;
and the hum of the great, noisy city is scarcely audible.  But the brief noontide past, all is astir again
until the time of the going down of the sun. The
dinner is by no means a great event in the Spaniard's
day; it being a frugal repast, made cheerful by only
a slight draught of wine.  The stranger is not asked
to share the simple meal; but is entertained, if at
all, with a cigar, or a cup of chocolate, or even a 
DOLCE FAR NIENTE.
glass of orange water. At evening, however, the
Habaniero is capable of performing many kind offices
for you; such as sending his volante for you to take
a drive on the paseo; bidding you to the tertulia;
offering you a seat in his box at the opera; accompanying you to the plaza to hear the music, to Domenica's to eat ices, and to the Captain-General's
when the latter gives a ball or fandango. So easy is
it to entertain and be entertained in this Gan Eden.
But, strange as it may seem, it is no easy matter
for most Yankees who visit the island to fall into
this simple, natural way  of living.  Immediately
after my arrival, the observation was forced on me,
that the greater part of the Americans staying at the
hotels were busy in inquiring how they should be
able to get away from the country which they had
come to visit. It was truly a hard lesson for them
to learn the dolce far niente.  Having hastily seen
everything in Havana that could be seen hastily,
they, at the end of two or three days, knew not
what to do with themselves, unless it were to watch
the coming and going of the American steamers, to
go hither and thither in search of American newspapers, to talk over and over again among themselves
the story of their voyage to the island, to discuss the
question of routes, the hours of the trains on the
railroad, and the days of departure of the coast
239 
240      TO DIXIE AND  TI[E I0OPICS.
going steamers. They smoked their cigars with a
certain degree of impatience, and were too soon at
the end of them.   They were in perpetual motion,
driving, walking, boating;  and found their seats
uneasy, even though they were placed beneath palm
trees and the stars of the tropics.
A portion of this restlessness was owing, no
doubt, to the very poor accommodations afforded by
the public inns, at that season overrun with guests.
To this cause, especially, was to be attributed the
discontent of the fair sex; for the landladies unfeelin,gly separated those whom God had joined together,
not even paying the slightest regard to the circumstance that some of them were newly married.
Hence it happened that most of the American visitors were kept pretty busily employed during the
winter, first in finding lodgings, and afterward in
changing them. They were to be met with every
day in hot pursuit of cool apartments. They were
constantly looking for clean rooms, clean beds, clean
tablecloths-and, alas! finding none. It was one
perpetual round, a vicious circle, from the fryingpan
into the fire, and back from the fire into the fryingpan; their chief consolation, meanwhile, being to
compare the different degrees of elevation at which
they found the thermometer standing in these two
different situations. 
D OL CE FAPD l~lEiVTE.
It may, indeed, be a little too much to expect
that men should be perfectly happy when so unsatis  factorily lodged; still, no one who knows anything
about Spanish countries ever goes to them for the
sake of the pleasure to be derived from sleeping in
their beds. Every traveller should make up his mind
not to find fault with Spanish sacking because it is
not a mattress; and, especially, never to pick quar rels with the fleas. All that he can reasonably look
for, is a couch with a mosquito net, windows without
glass, doors without locks or latches, water enough
to bathe the end of the nose and the tips of the
fingers, and a towel just big enough to wipe them
dry. Whatever he may find over and above this, is
so much good luck, to be accepted with thankfulness,
and paid for with extra pesetas.   In none of the
dominions of Her Most Catholic Majesty can the
traveller expect to find the roast beef juicy; and he
must visit them with his mind made up to eat tortillas. Cheerfully should he accept oil for butter, and
stone for cheese.   But, having good bread and
chocolate, a plenty of eggs, chickens, rice, fried plantains, and sweet oranges, surely any man of a sound
mind and stomach may be content.  What is lacking
in some of his comforts, will be more than made
good by the air fresh from heaven which he breathes,
by the sun shining by day and by the moon and stars
11
241 
TO DIXIE AND THE TR OPICS.
shining by night.  In case of a "norther," finally, he
can sufficiently comfort himself by simply lighting
his cabauos.
That day, certainly, may well be called a happy
one, which is brought to a close in the Plaza de
Armas. You go there between the hours of eight
and nine to listen to the music of the band-one of
the largest and best in America-which plays nightly
before the palace of the Captain-General.   Dressed
n fine linen, you sit in perfect comfort of body in the
open air, with nothing between you and the stars but
palm leaves. The air is perfectly pure, save that it
may have in it the scent of flowers; for it is in the
midst of a garden, beautiful with tropical plants and
shrubs, that you take your seat to listen to the sweet
music of overtures, symphonies, and waltzes. If,
leaving your chair, you stroll through the grounds,
the perfume changes from rose to violet, from orange
blossoms to the sweet-scented shrub, from heliotropes
to geraniums, pinks, and mignonette. The gaslights
show the various hues of the flowers, and are reflected from the polished surface of innumerable
green leaves. Even without the gas you can mark
the flashing of the Spanish eye as you pass along the
ranks of the prominenaders, and distinguish well
enough the features of the fair Creoles by the light
of their smiles. If tired of the beautiful promenade
242 
DOLCE FAlR NIENTE.
between these hedges of rose and orange, and be neath the graceful palmtops which seem to reach the
sky, you can take a volante, and, with a friend by
your side, sit chatting in its easy seat during the in tervals of music; and when, at last, you have lis tened to the strains of the final march, until they are
lost in the distant streets, as the band retires to its
barracks, you can drive to Domenica's, which is hard
by, and taste an ice.
Certainly, you don't mind being cheated out of
sixpence. For the waiter, seeing, at first look, that
you wear the American whisker under your chin, or
have English shoes on, will Jew you to that extent;
and there is no help for it. But the joke of paying
sixpence black mail to the Domenica you enjoy no
less than the ice. It is, in fact, quite as good. And,
generally, in Cuba, any person for whose services
you have occasion will expect from sixpence to half
an ounce for so much as looking at you.  You cannot begin to turn around without its costing you a
piece of money. To do it with any flourish of the
hand, as much as to say, Here am I, a man of consequence when at home in the States, will cost you a
gold piece. It may also be a useful piece of inforination for somebody, if I add that there is one occasion, especially, when a well-filled purse is indispensable to the stranger in Havana; and that is, when
243 
244      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
he goes shopping with his wife. She wants, of
course, to buy a few articles-the specialitgs.  But
fans, my dear sir, are a hundred dollars apiece; that
is to say, the best talking ones. An article less
chatty you may get for fifty, or a very stupid one for
twenty-five even. But a dollar fan is as dumb as a
mute at South Boston. Pray don't think your wife
extravagant if she want a couple dozen of these eloquent, airy nothings. You know that for your own
best cabanos you paid the enormous price of two
hundred and eighty dollars per thousand. Did you
not give three hundred dollars for a dozen of embroidered shirts? Surely, then, you cannot think it
a piece of extravagance in your better and more prudent half to buy tablecloths at twelve dollars each,
and towels at fifteen per dozen. The muslins, to be
sure, are so lovely that they are cheap at any price;
so are the pineapples, the grenadines, and, especially,
the laces. Guava jelly, too, is cheap and good; and
you cannot have too much of it. Buy fifty dollars'
worth.
It is, doubtless, very true that no man should
ever count the cost of his dolce far niente.  Still, let
me tell you, that if, some fine day-which is almost
any day in the year-you say, on removing the mos
quito net in the morning, This  day I will order
horses for an excursion into the country; I will go 
DOLCE FAR NIENTE.
to Senfior Don Fulano's sugar estate, and spend a
week with him-let me tell you that it is necessary
to put much money in your purse. You will want it
to give to the robbers. For they will waylay you,
and, in case of not finding in your pockets a number
of gold pieces corresponding to the dignity of your
personal appearance, they will rap you over the head
soundly for travelling with less money than becomes
your station. Or, being armed with pen, ink, and
paper, as the gentlemen of the road always are in
Cuba, they will make you draw a check for five thou sand dollars-it may be ten-and lock you up in a
cave for safe keeping until your banker shall place
that sum at their disposal. No Creole of distinction
ever travels about the island light-pocketed; and, in
case of. meeting disagreeable compatriots on the
road, he relies for safety much more on purse than
pistols; the latter being worn' merely for show, and
as a sign of personal consequence, although required
by law to be of a length not shorter than fourteen
inches.
But, for my part, I was never robbed in Cuba,
except in the hotels, and offices of the Government.
In all my travels about the island, in fact, I never
met a montero who had so much the look of a cutpurse as the one who was seated, one day, by my
side at a table d'A6te in Havana. He was a stalwart,
245 
TO  )IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
swarthy native, with mustaches as long as Louis
Napoleon's, and spurs as long as his mustaches, but
with a jacket cut so short as scarcely to come down
to the small of his back. I know not by what ill
luck I was placed next to him at table; but, as
misery often has strange bedfellows, so a gentleman
at the mesa redonda in Cuba is liable to find himself
at the side of monteros, German Jews, and bagmen.
Having the appetite of seven men in one, my fellow
had no sooner taken his seat, than he had emptied
every.dish within reach; and, while still eagerly
occupied in gobbling them down, tapping me gently
on the arm- for his mouth was too full for speechhe pointed significantly with his knife to a dish of
very nice fried plantains, which had been placed
before me.  He wanted some of them.  But no one
waiter being adequate to the supply of all his wants,
hlie made application directly to me, and, with an expression of face which plainly said, That plate of
fried plantains, or your life, Senor! I acknowledge
the amiable weakness of having preferred resigning
the plantains rather than my existence, it being at
that time particularly sweet; and I had, besides, an
engagement for the evening at the Plaza.  So I
handed the dish to the barbarian, and held on to my
lease of life.
246 
UCtA P TER XXIII.
The Paseo Tacon.
T is the aspiration of every lady in Havana to
have her volante. And well it may be; for the
etiquette of the town forbids her setting foot in the
street. She is scarcely permitted to walk even to
church. The streets being narrow, and the sidewalks, where there are any, having width enough
only to allow a single person to pass, it can well be
understood that a lady, in attempting to walk in
such a city, would be exposed to being jostled, or
otherwise incommoded.   Moreover, she could not
walk far without soiling her dress in the abundant
mud or dust.  Nor  could she well escape being
stared at, and, very likely, made the subject of impertinent remark. The volante, therefore, is both
necessity and luxury for her. She must have it in
order to go to church, to go a-shopping, to take an
airing, to make visits; and, without it, is little better 
T'O DIXIE A.TD THE  TROPICS.
than a prisoner in her own house. It costs about a
thousand a year to keep a volante with two horses;
and a Spanish lady will forego almost any luxury,
except fans, in order to have this amount annually to
spend on a carriage.
It is indispensable that the volante be drawn by
two horses, or rather mules, at half tandem. The
mules, also, must have their harness well washed in
silver; they must have tag and tassel; and, espe cially, must have their tails braided, and tied up with
gay cords and ribbons over their backs to the saddle.
There must be, furthermore, a negro on the back of
the leading mule; and he must have, besides his palmetto hat, a laced and braided jacket, be it green,
yellow, scarlet, purple, or sky blue. It is proper that
he should wear leathern breeches. Jack boots are as
indispensable as the indispensables themselves; while
his heels must be spurred, as near as may be, like
Don Quixote's. The volante itself should be more
or less silvered over, and painted to correspond with
the postilion's jacket.   Then, when the  forward
mule has been trained to go on a canter, and the
shaft mule on a trot, the Cuban lady has all that
heart can wish for in the matter of a carriage.
The Yankee in Havana, who, wishing to spread
the feathers of his American eagle a little, orders
such a turnout from a livery stable, will be charged
248 
THE PASEO TA CON.
half an ounce for his afternoon's airing. It is as
necessary for him to have doubloons in his pocket
when he drives to the paseo, as it is for Queen Isa bella when she goes in state through the streets of
Madrid, scattering gold. I did this thing the first
holiday afternoon after my arrival, driving more
especially over the Paseo Tacon. All the world and
his wife were there. Hiundreds of volantes passed
and repassed on a walk, from one end of the long
promenade to the other; their great number preventilg them from moving any faster.  Bordered on
either side by tall trees ever in leaf, the road runs
between flower gardens and green fields, and commands a view of the city, the adjacent hills, and the
sea. At the hour of sunset the prospect is truly
beautiful, when the palms are seen on the western
hills gracefully grouped together against a sky of
gold and purple. Recently, a few four-wheeled carriages have been introduced by hidalgos anxious to
make themselves conspicuous by innovating upon the
castoms of their country.  But the volantes far outnumbered all other vehicles on the paseo. Most of
them were occupied by two or three ladies, their
crinoline being protruded as much as possible on
either side, and giving to the carriage the appearance
of being winged with gay plumage. It is a fashion
which has no inconvenience in the usually still
11*
249 
TO DIXIE AND THE  TROPICS.
weather of Havana, when  the evening  breeze is
scarcely strong enough to stir muslin; but is sufficiently awkward in a "norther."  This wind, luckily
an infrequent visitor, by bringing confusion into the
ladies' dresses, and leaving the fair wearers not a
shadow of an excuse for fanning themselves, puts an
end at once to all pleasure-driving on the paseos.
At all other times, the promenading lasts not only
until the day fades out of the west, but is industriously continued by gaslight.
When taking this drive, the ladies have nothing
on their heads, save, perhaps, a veil, a wreath of
flowers, or a coronet of diamonds; and nothing on
their necks or arms. Nor do they conceal the beauty
of their hands, even, and the brilliancy of their rings,
by putting on gloves. The thinnest and tiniest of
white satin slippers cover the feet.  Two ladies occupying the same volante always select dresses which
will make a handsome contrast of colors.   If one
skirt be pink, the other will be green. If one be
straw color, the other will be lilac. The whole
promenade glows with the high-tinted silks and muslins.  Indeed, what with the ladies' dresses and the
postilions' jackets, the gayly painted carriages, the
well-grootned mules and their glittering trappings,
the scene is a shifting tapestry of all colors, gorgeous
as the processions of princes.  It is a vain show, no
250 
THE PASEO TA CON.
doubt, but one which gives supreme delight to lovers
of pleasure who live so near the sun. The tropical
day has no  entertainment  half so much  prized.
These  gentlemen would  sooner go without their
dinner, and these ladies without their sweetmeats,
than miss the afternoon parade. Nor is it, in fact,
the monotonous scene which foreign, uninitiated
eyes may find it.  That fair Senora who drives to
and fro on the paseo by the hour, is enjoying a
varied entertainment. Far from being an idle, list less spectator of the scene, she is diligently exer cising her eyes on every passing dame and cavalier;
she is exercising her pretty little hand in constantly
opening and shutting her gayly painted abanico;
and with that graceful instrument, though she do
not part her lips except to smile, she is talking quite
as ifst as her tongue itself could go.  She can speak
few foreign languages; but she knows thoroughly
the language of the fan. She can both confess and
accuse, rave or sigh with it. She kisses you with it;
she sends you an invitation by it; and she tells you
whether to come that evening to the opera, to the
plaza, to Domenica's, or to her own house. Thus
she holds pleasant discourse with friends and acquaintances, who, from carriage or saddle, reply with
bows and smiles, and all those movements of the
eyes which Spaniards are adepts in. In this way,
251 
252     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the paseo, instead of being a monotonous, tiresome
parade, becomes as chatty as the drawing room, as
amusing as a play, and I know not how much preferable to reading the Havana newspapers.
Unfortunately, there is not connected with the
paseo, as in many of the towns of Old Spain, any
promenade for pedestrians, where gentlemen and
ladies, alighting from their carriages, can stroll for a
half hour through grounds tastefully decorated with
shrubbery and flowers; where friends can pay the
calls of the day, and fair ones hold their temporary
court sans ccremonie. But, the Paseo Tacon being
situated at the foot of a hill which is crowned by the
Castello del Principe, the afternoon drive may conveniently be varied by climbing the tempting summit. There, at the hour of sunset, is presented, on
one side, a view of tlhe purple sea; on the other, of
the cream-colored city, now slightly tinged with the
hue of roses; and, beyond the walls, of far-reaching
green plains, dotted with groups of palm trees.
Spires, and domes, and towers burn in the last rays
of the gorgeous tropical sunset; while the hilltops
of the distant horizon glow with the reflected light
of the clouds in which they lose themselves. 
CHAPTER XXI V.
ChtrchA and Opera.
AIVI sorry to be obliged to represent the Cu     bans as not very diligent churchgoers. In the
mother country, the Spaniards are much more exemplary in the performance of the duty of attending
mass and vespers; often filling not only all the seats,
but even the aisles of their churches. But, on the
island, the sacred edifices contained, whenever I visited them, but a paltry handful of worshippers, and
always presented on the marble floors abundant
space for the servants to spread the broad carpets
and cushions of their mistresses.   Generally, the
congregations consisted one half of Africans, who
are not here compelled to pray in a corner, as in our
Northern churches; but who, on the contrary, often
occupy the very foremost places before the altars.
Always well dressed, the blacks sometimes come to
church in great state even. One strapping wench I 
TO I)DIXIE AN) THE TROPICS.
remember to have seen in a chapel, making herself
conspicuous, directly in front of the high altar, on a
cushion which had been brought to her for that pur pose by a most respectful black boy. Being dressed
in a fine pineapple, a lace mantilla, and embroidered
skirt, wherein she seemed to take as much delight as
if it had been bought off the altar, she sat there
apparently enjoying the unction of extreme comfort
and self-satisfaction. Her fan, which was opened
and shut at the end of each ave and pater with all
the air of a fashionable belle, was about as gay as
any Sefiora's at opera or pasco. There appeared to
be only one little mistake about her-her fashionable
hoop had been put on backside foremost.
It was in the freshness of the early morning, and
before the rays of the sun had become potent enough
to require the protection of an umbrella, when I
went, for the first time, to the cathedral. At that
hour, the quiet of the place was not much disturbed
by worshippers; and it was pleasant to stroll through
the different parts of this collection of venerable ediflees, hearing the music of the chant in the remotest
courts, and the echoes of the organ repeated along
all the corridors. In some of these inner courtyards
tall trees were growing, and water was trickling
from ancient fountains; while here and there were
to be seen a few plants and flowers. In the course
254 
CITURCH AND OPERA.
of my walk through the buildings, I observed some
priests praying, some receiving confessions, some
promenading and chatting, and others. eating and
smoking.  But what interested me most was, not the
sight of the somewhat neglected courtyards, nor the
deep voices of the priestly choir, which reverberated
so far through the aisles and cloisters, but the spot
where lie enshrined the ashes of the discoverer of
America. Alas! that so many heroic qualities of
character should lie buried there under the stones,
and so few be found living and breathing on this
island!
The churches, it may be added, opened here
every morning and evening to all persons who may
be disposed to come in for the purpose of offering
up their prayers, are much more accessible than in
our Protestant States, where the sacred doors remain
closed six days out of seven, and where; even then,
the congregation is shut up in pews, located according to the color of the skin, and the monetary value
of the worshippers.
But the opera in Havana, on the other hand, is
far more difficult of access than that in New York.
In the season of the Carnival, for example, a boxand you cannot take a lady to any other part of the
house-will cost you fifty dollars. Do you think it
paying too much for the privilege of seeing a prima
255 
TO I)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
donna asoluta?  Rather consider yourself a fortu nate man that the price is not double that sum. In deed, it is more probable that, on a grand gala night,
you will not be able to get a box for either love or
money. For every pretty Sefiora and Sefiorita in
Ilavana will be dying to go, and all the best places
will have been engaged weeks beforehand. The
Havanese mind seems to be smitten with a perfect
rage for the opera. This is the grand and fashionable entertainment-the rnost expensive luxury of
the town. The gentlemen all assist at the spectacle
in dress coats and embroidered shirts, with stars and
ribbons in their buttonholes, hats brushed to a hair
and mustaches waxed up to their eyes. The ladies,
of course, are present in all their crinoline, but with
dresses quite ready to fall off their shoulders, and
laced about the waist within an inch of their lives.
Every lady has her fan; every lady is flounced. All
have their hair done ov,er a cushion, and all have
their faces done in eggshell, which they call casca.
rilla. The long line of boxes flashes with jewelry,
like the blazing mouths of a whole park of artillery.
For there are diamonds on the brows of every lady
who has a pretty forehead, diamonds on all the tapering fingers, diamonds on all the round arms, diamonds on the necks which are brunette, and pearls
on the blonde ones. The boxes are so arranged that
256 
CH URCH AXN) OPERA.
the toilets are seen from top to toe. Not a head, not
a neck, not a waist, arm, finger, foot, but what is
visible from every part of the house. The Havanese
wish to see and be seen whenever they go to hear
music; and, much as they pay the piper, they pay
the jeweller and the dressmaker more.
The season I was in Havana, the elite of the city
were divided into two hostile camps, fighting, the
one for Garcia and the other for Gazzaniga; and
making the contest second only to the never-to-beforgotten one carried on a few years ago in New
York between the partisans of Alboni and of Sontag. It was a war of the roses; for the victory was
decided by the greater number of bouquets with
which the stage was strewn from one end of the
play to the other.
Garcia, I believe, won the greater triumph in a
contest wherein neither champion suffered defeat.
Her appearance on the stage, the evening of her
farewell benefit, was the signal for filling the air
with miniature balloons and pigeons, and showers of
bouquets, to which were attached printed slips of
complimentary verses.  No sooner had the first act
ended, than the prima donna was again showered
with flowers. After the second, she was presented
with a gold bracelet. After the third, her brows
were crowned with a wreath of diamonds, all sup
257 
258      TO DILYIE AND THE TROPICS.
posed to be genuine; and when, at the conclusion of
the opera, the curtain was about to fall, 1o! Garcia
appeared surrounded with the dazzling brilliancy of
Bengal lights.   This furore  cost the HIavanese  a
handsome little sum, variously estimated by the enthusiasm of the fair donna's admirers at from five to
twenty thousand dollars.
So mad, every time Carnival week comes round,
do these lovers of pleasure run over' some secondrate warbler on the stage. Oppressed mortals, they
have no Congress sitting in Havana to inspire them
with a nobler, a political frenzy. They have no
Tammany or Fanueil Hall wherein to let off their
pent-up passion. No grand senate chamber furnishes
them, from time to time, with the spectacle of the
representatives of the nation caned in their seats, or
seizing each other by the coat collar.  They have,
instead, only either the fight of bulls, or this fight
between the followers of two rival prima donnas.
Well, let them, for the present, rave, and throw up
their hats when a Garcia or a Gazzaniga splits her
throat to please them; for it is, no doubt, but a short
time which will be vouchsafed them wherein to listen
to dulcet music, as if it were the summtun bonum of
existence.  After the island is annexed, we will send
them a supply of political orators, who, making. their
sweet voices heard loud above the trilling and war 
CHURCH AND OPERA.
bling Melopomenes of the stage, shall teach them the
higher art of the stump speech, and how to talk to
Buncombe. Happy day, when they shall prefer the
platform of rough boards to the boards of Terpsichore; when they shall forsake bull fighting and cock
fighting for a free fight at the polls; and when, after
dinner, instead of finding entertainment in the vanity
of a volante, or coffee at Domeulica's, they shall sit
out the evening hours in their  "Pewter  Mugs,"
gravely discussing, over doctored whiskey, the wholesome doctrine of universal suffrage, and the principles of the year'98, immortal in Virginia.
259 
CHAPTER XXV.
Oranges and the Quays.
N different countries the wise traveller learns a
different lesson.  Whoever visits Italy, for example, finds that his eye is trained to detect and
appreciate the beautiful. For, besides the treasures
of art, all the forms of nature wear there an unusual
grace, and present an inimitable harmony of coloring. In nature, art, and man, lives everywhere and
reigns paramount the spirit of beauty. By this is
the thoughtful tourist perpetually delighted and instructed; not caring to find the Northern idea of
utility developed in such a country; not wishing to
see its lazzaroni shut up in steam factories; nor even
its improvvisatori and ballad singers transformed into
demagogues and expounders of political constitutions. Enough for him that there is one country in
the world which enkindles in all persons of genial
minds and hearts a warmer love of beautiful art and 
. ORANGFS AND THE QUAYS.
letters; so that, returning to their own homes, hum ble though they be, they are able to discover in them
a thousand charms and graces never seen before.
But whoever goes to Cuba has quite another les son set before him. He learns how to eat oranges!
And what would that youth at the New England teadrinking not give to know how to cut the orange
which he wishes to offer to the maid for whose tender
sake his cheeks are turned to purple, and his knees
tremble under him! He does not know how to proceed. Shall he peel it for her? Shall he offer it to
her cut into quarters?
Now I propose to inform this bashful young man
how the Cubans perform this feat; and surely they
ought to be considered experts. First, then, they
pare the fruit; taking great pains that the knife pass
just beneath the outer rind in such a way as to remove the yellow and leave the white part of it.
This is important, because, if the blade anywhere
runs so deep as to touch the pulp, the juice will
trickle through the wound when the orange is eaten,
and so will spot the lady's fine brocade, or calico.
The orange, peeled as aforesaid, is cut through the
centre into halves, each forming a perfect cup for
containing the precious liquid. And then all that
remains to be done with the two halves is, to eat
them. If the nose be a trifle too much hooked, or
261 
262     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
run out to a point unusually long, it may be a little
inconvenient to drink the juice after this fashion;
so that, in cutting an orange for a lady with such a
nasal member, it might be questionable whether
some better way of doing it could not be hit upon.
Every rule will have its exceptions; and every man
must rely on his wits in emergencies.
Who does not love these delicious golden rounds?
And is it not a piece of good luck, that this is one of
the few kinds of food which cannot be adulterated?
Down in Connecticut there may be men clever
enough to whittle out a wooden nutmeg which shall
pass in Virginia, and the South, for a merchantable
article. But what Yankee ever yet went about the
country peddling artificial oranges? There be mock
oranges in nature; but this is a trick of hers whereby nobody is deceived. So there are different varieties of sweet oranges; as, in the firmament, the stars
differ from each other in glory. The perfect fruit is
that, whether grown on the south side of Cuba, or in
the Algerine valley of Blidah, which you yourself
pick up beneath the tree where it has been lying all
night with the dew on it-which you pick up before
the first ray of the rising sun gilds its rind. Then its
juices are cool, and as much better than after they
have been fermented, from exposure to a tropical sun
in the streets and shops of the city, as champagne is 
ORA.NG.ES AND THE QUAYS.
better when served cold from the ice than lukewarm
from the sideboard.  When you are in Cuba, get
early up, and, in the fireshness of the morning, fill
your basket with oranges from under the oldest trees,
and eat them after the termination of the morning's
walk or drive. Cuban servants will pare them neatly
for you; but, if not too indolent, you can do it your self. A half a dozen is not too many to eat; par ticularly if, at breakfast and dinner, you mix Catalan
wine with your water.
Who, indeed, does not love oranges?  The father
returning from town makes his children happy, if, on
searching his pockets, they find this sweet fruit of
the tropics there.  Even the baby plays delighted
with one of them, as with a ball.  The schoolgirl
goes on her way with a brighter face and a gayel
song, for having a big Havana in her satchel; and
old age, likewise, smacks its shrivelled lips after
tasting these sweet juices.   How ornamental their
golden globes are on the dinner table; and how welcome whenever there is a feast and frolicking! All
over the North, the peddler hawks them from village
to village; in the shop windows of both town and
country, the eyes of passers by, young or old, greet
thetm with pleasure; while at the bedside of sickness their juice is among the most grateful of the
drinks prescribed by the physician-a solace to the
parched mouth of humanity througlhout the world.
263 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
The orange markets are everywhere in Havana.
This fruit, which all men buy and eat, is cried about
the streets, having been brought into town on mule
and donkey back. It is sold in all the vegetable markets, where it is displayed in heaps and baskets; and
may also be bought by the boat-load, or the single
one, along all the principal quays. These latter are
not, perhaps, the most eligible places for selecting
choice fruit; but one is more entertained there by
the graver movement of men and affairs, than by the
huckstering and haggling of the other markets.
Whoever would gladly see an example of toil
alleviated by merriment, should by all means go to
the quays of Havana, and look at the Africans-pure
specimens of the race grown in its native land, black
as charcoal, strong limbed, and tattooed. Here all
the work is done by them, sprinkled only with a few
Chinese and Spaniards. With what hilarity and jest.
ing they roll out the hogsheads of molasses! with
what ease they transport on their heads the bricks,
and boxes of sugar! They are but half clad, wearing no shirt or jacket; and you see the fine play of
their muscles while they are busy at their tasks.
There is much work to be done on the quays, but
still more laborers to do it; so that nearly a third of
them are unemployed, and cracking jokes with those
who have something to do. Of the former, some
264 
ORANGES AND THE QUAYS..
stand chatting in groups; some, smoking their cigars,
sit about on bales of cotton and boxes of sugar;
while others, supine, or flat on their breasts, lie sleep   ing in the sun. They are strong fellows, and willing
enough to exert their powers on the slightest pinch
of necessity; but it is amusing to see how many of
them it will take to pull a boat up to the pier, when
there happens to be plenty of them at hand, each one
putting forth the least possible modicum of strength,
and all making a jest of the effort. To unload a
barge of bricks, each parcel of four must pass
through the hands of as many different negroes.
The first one picks them up and hands them to the
second, who tosses them to the third standing in the
prow, and he to the fourth standing on the quay.
Indeed, there are two more-one to bear them across
the quay on his head or his shoulder, and the other
to receive them at the cart. The division of labor
seems to lighten it; the companionship in toil makes
all work with a will. One half of these black men
may be estimated to be constantly on the grin, and
the other half to have cigars in their teeth. What a
horse-laugh that wide-mouthed fellow on the topmost
cotton bale ejects from his throat! and did you ever
before see two such cannibalistic rows of ivory?
He has just pulled the wool over some brother nigger's eyes, and gone into convulsions about it.
12 
265 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
These Afiicans have well-developed chests, and,
in most cases, handsomely turned arms; but their
limbs are always deficient in symmetry. In the
whole crowd you will not be able to find a single
form which is, throughout, well proportioned. Either
their bodies are too long for their legs, or their legs
are too long for their bodies. An Apollo Belvidere
is not to be sought for here. They have good
height, however, and generally dwarf their Spanish
and  Chinese associates.   Of  these  last-mentioned
laborers, the former are a tolerably merry set, and
even more noisy than the negroes; but disputatious,
also, and of a blood that mounts more quickly into
passion. But the Chinese, with his slender legs and
thin body, appears not to be so happy at this heavy
work of the quays; has rather a homesick look, and
sometimes wears a visage not a little sulky. Still he
has brighter eyes and more brains than the African,
and will finally succeed in domesticating himself in
our tropics; although, for the first few years after
cutting off his pigtail, he naturally feels a little uncomfortable, and does not quite know how to make
himself at home without his pet appendage.
266
or 
CHA P TER XX VI.
The Cerro.
WAS very comfortably lodged, for a few days,
in one of the hotels in the Cerro. This suburb
consists mainly of a single street some three miles in
length, the half of it nearest the town being occupied by shops and the homes of shopkeepers, and
the other half by the villas and chateaux belonging
to the wealthy merchants of the city, and official
personages of distinction. The most of these stand
directly upon the street, though a few are situated at
a little distance from it, in the midst of groves and
gardens. In passing along this more rural part of
the Cerro, one gets a view of beautiful green lawns,
of pretty collections of flowers, of tropical shrubbery growing in the greatest luxuriance, and of
palms towering over all, no less gracefully than
proudly, toward the sky. The mansions are gay
with bright colors, the white being everywhere 
TO DIXIE AIV.D THE TROPICS.
striped with pink, sky blue, and apple green. At
evening, also, nothing of the kind can be more
charming than a drive through this portion of the
Cerro; for the houses-the piazzas included-are all
brilliantly lighted with gas, and have their doors
and windows thrown wide open. The passer by,
looking directly through the halls, sees pretty vistas
beyond leading to orange gardens, or terminated by
vases of bright-colored flowers. He also sees the
members of the family gathered in groups on the
piazza, or arranged, according to age and sex, in two
formal rows of rocking chairs. There they sit, the
ladies opposite the gentlemen, and rock themselves
the whole evening through. The Spanish fans make
a pleasant breeze when none blows in at open doors
and windows; the flowers diffuse through the rooms
a sweet perfume; the blaze of gas makes every
countenance visible, even from the street; exhibits
all the toilets, and every article of the furniture, the
volante which stands in a corner of the hall included.
You hear, as you pass, the song, and see the dance.
You hear, also, the mellifluous hum of the soft Spanish voices, and their musical, ringing laugh; and you
see even the fingering of the piano, and the thrumming of the strings of the blue-ribboned guitar.
Charmed with the sight, you exclaim, "How social
this is!" And, as you see the guests coming and
268
w 
THE CERRO. 
going, you can hardly restrain the desire to enter
these hospitably open doors yourself, and make your
bow to such fair company.
Hard by the Cerro stands.a fine old chateau, ap proached by an avenue of palms full half a mile in
length. As the sunny day draws to a close, it is a
pleasant promenade from the hotel to pass between
these graceful rows of sentinels into the grounds and
gardens of the chateau. You may even be asked
into the house by the gracious and hospitable inmates.  And if, by any chance, an acquaintance thus
begun should lead to intimacy, I will not say that a
dinner party may be given you; but it is possible
that the polite hostess may invite you, if a lady, to
join her, some morning, in the bath.
Nor, in this hot climate, is such a favor to be
lightly esteemed. For the bath is one of the greatest of Cuban luxuries. The bath house is often built
in the midst of a flower garden, and looks like a summer bower.  The descent is by marble steps into a
basin of clear - spring water of a temperature so
grateful that an hour passes only too quickly there.
At the end of it, female slaves stand ready with
snow-white napkins to make the toilets; and, afterward, the bathers, lounging on couches, are served
with fruits and iced drinks.  Conversation, embroidery, books, follow; or, it may be, the siesta. And
thus, ere one is aware, is passed an entire morning.
269 
270     TO DIXIE AND  THE TROPICS.
A pleasant drive, just off the Cerro, invites the
stranger to a place of some little resort, called the
Bishop's Garden. But, unfortunately, the pleasant
days when the good bishop lived here are long since
gone; and now, all that remains is an old palace
abandoned to decay, fish ponds in which there are no
fish, flower gardens wherein there are no flowers, and
walks, half overgrown with grass, leading through
grounds in which neglect is mnaking graceful mockery
of all previous labor and painstaking. It is a pity,
indeed, that such a fine old palace should be given
over to the bats and the lizards; and that the visitor
to this naturally beautiful spot should see no signs
of work anywhere, except the constant working of
the luxuriant tropical vegetation. Here are magnificent groves and clusters of trees, containing the
palm, the ceiba, the beech, the mango, the mamey,
and the sapote; while up many a stem is seen climbing the ivy, or the vine, or the Indian fig, and other
parasites whose name is legion. The scene, in spite
of the large, pink-colored water roses which lie floating on the artificial waters, is a little less gay than
harmonizes well with the mood of mind in which
one takes his afternoon stroll in the tropics. However, the way homeward by the Paseo Tacon will
sufficiently exalt the spirits again; for, along the line
of the western horizon, glowing at sunset with that 
THE CERRO.
beautiful tint of pink which one sees in sea shells,
there stand, in bold relief, palm trees grouped together as gracefully as the Three Sisters, or the
Muses, in old Greek art.  And,  haply, when the
traveller, returned to his home in the North, and sitting muffled, on winter nights, by the fireside, thinks
of the sunny afternoons when he rambled through
the green suburbs of the Havana, he will see the
blazing logs converted by his dreamy eyes into those
same groups of dark palm trees, standing amid the
pink-colored sea shells of the Caribbean.
271 
CHA P TER XX VII.
Excurisions.
WHAT excursions into the country ought I
to make from Havana?  asks the Yankee,
who expects to see everything, and counts the very
best of it not too good for him.
This question you will very likely ask of your
banker, to whom you bring a letter of credit; and,
in consideration of the three and one quarter per
cent. which he charges for the trouble of counting
out your ounces, he is willing to answer a few questions. He may not do anything more for you; but
a few questions he expects to answer every man who
comes from the States. Perhaps, when the rate of
exchange goes against him, and he cannot have the
face to deduct from your money more than one or
two per centum, he will be a little more laconic; but
the chances are ten to one that you will arrive at a
period of what he will term a small financial crisis, 
EXCURSIONS.
when, ofcourse, money is very dear, and you will
not object to paying a handsome premium for it.
Take care, by the way, if you ask the banker's
clerk to give you small money, that he do not shrug
his shoulders. For it is a first principle with the
Cuban to take all the silver he can get, and give as
little. And when you do succeed in extracting it
from him, I would not like to insure you against
there being some light-weight pieces among it. Your
twenty-five-cent coins may not turn out to be of the
value of more than twenty; and you must not presume that any native will take them for more than
they weigh in the scales. He knows their avoirdu
pois the instant they touch his palm.  "Five cents
more, if you please, Selfior," says he, promptly. Indeed, I remember, in one instance, when making a
negotiation with a Habafiero of the value of a single
sixpence, that I was obliged to produce no less thani
four of these coins before finding one that came up
to his very nice notion of what was standard value.
Still, as few strangers speak the language of the
country, they ought to bear in mind how much trouble they give everybody with whom they have dealings, from the banker down to the orange merchant,
and be ready to pay a shilling or so ill the dollar, for
the privilege of talking incomprehensible Spanish,
looking out of curiosity at twice as many things in
12'+
273 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the shops as they purchase, stopping people to illnquire their way about town, and blundering generally. Then, too, the amusement of seeing so much
close reckoning in a country lying so far removed
from the North Pole, ought to be considered as
worth something.
Well-your banker advises you to go to Guanabacoa; says it is the most agreeable excursion to be
made out of Havana-in fact, about the only one,
unless you choose to go to San Antonio and get a
fish breakfast. Accordingly, little choice being left,
you decide in favor of Guanabaeoa. Go, as I did, in
the cool of the afternoon, and just as the clouds of
sunset are lying, one above the other, parallel with
the horizon, and showing narrow spaces of sky between, crimson, and gold-colored; as though the red
and yellow of the Spanish ensign had been hoisted
athwart the heavens. Your satisfaction in taking
this excursion, be it more or less, begins with a drive
in a volante from your hotel to the harbor. Thence
you are carried on your way a half a mile across the
harbor in a ferry boat.  Next, entering a very neat
and strongly buik station house, filled with comfortable railway carriages, you take a place in one of
them, and are borne by the train through a beautiful
country of rolling hills crested with palm trees;
through fields green in winter, and pastured by cows
274 
EXCURSION  2S.
and oxen; between hedges of cactus, and a great
variety of beautifully flowering plants of the tropics; within sight, during most of the time, of the
blue waters of the harbor, past villas gayly striped
with blue and green, and surrounded with orange
groves and banana orchards, and thickets of tall oleander.  The journey lasts just eight minutes.  Indeed, at the end of seven, the shriek of the engine,
announcing the approach of the train to the town,
surprises you in the very midst of your enjoyment
of the lovely prospect. But the road ends at Guanabacoa; and you must immediately leave the train, or
be carried back, in eight minutes more, to Havana.
It was my good fortune to make this excursion
on a saint's day; and, on turning the first corner of
a street, to stumble upon a procession of the Holy
Virgin, arrayed in all her artificial flowers, gold lace,
and brocade. But, to tell the truth, it was a thirdrate procession of a third-rate town, consisting of
not more than a dozen Spaniards, and as many negroes, the latter being scarcely blacker than the former. Three or four greasy candle-bearers headed the
procession; a few boys followed, bearing waiters of
bread and cakes; then came one solitary priest, but
a portly one, swinging a censer of incense; and,
after hinm, was borne high in air, on the shoulders of
half a dozen negroes, the Blessed Virgin herself.
275
I
0 
276      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
But, unfortunately, the foremost of the bearers happened to be considerably taller than the hindmost;
so that the 31adonna stood with her head thrown
back even farther than became the Queen of Heaven.
Indeed, her position looked decidedly ticklish; and
the whole affair went so askew, that the porters,
whose shoulders were becoming uneasy from the unequal pressure, came to a halt for the purpose of
getting the tall blacks and the short blacks rightly
distributed under the burden. But they seemed too
stupid to know how to do it; and the Virgin, finally,
had to go up the steeply ascending street in a position which would have broken her back had she been
mortal.
A few steps farther on, I met a girl bearing a
basket of natural flowers, which took the color entirely out of the artificial ones of the Virgin. The
brilliancy of the scarlets was second only to that of
the sun between the tropics; the blues were as deep
as that of the Caribbean; the purples vied with the
clouds of the sunset then glowing in the west; and
the roses-white, red, and yellow-were fair enough
to be wreathed in the hair of the maids of Andalusia. I admired the flowers so much, that, at parting,
the damsel, in polite Spanish phrase, placed the basket at the disposition of the stranger-though not
expecting, of course, that he would accept it. But 
EXCURSIONS.
it was a beautiful vision, this of the flowers and the
maiden, which harmonized well with the blushes of
the sunset; and for some little distance behind, the
basket, as it was carried along, left a sweet scent
floating in the twilight air.
It was pleasant to step for a moment into the
principal church of the town, as the priests were extinguishing the last tapers, and the gloom of the
ancient edifice was becoming still more deepened by
the falling shadows of the evening. The plaza-for
every Spanish town has one-though too small for
palms, was well filled with flowering shrabs; while
a couple of pretty gardens at the end of the principal street, with their stiff, large cactus trees and towering pines, heightened the pleasure of the prolmenade.
And so ended my sight-seeing in Guanabacoa.
The light of the new moon shining out of the
still pink and purple west guided me on my way
homeward; and as I recrossed the beautiful harbor
of Havana, the gliding of every prow, the dipping
of every oar, and even the ripples which the soft
south wind raised upon a portion of the surface of
the harbor, made the waters all around flash with
phosphorescent light, as brightly as the stars overhead, and the crescent moon. The large clippers,
and the ships of war from Spain,. were casting
277 
TVO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
shadows blacker even than themselves over the harbor; while along the line of the quays the lights of
the city sent streams of flame, trembling and dancing, far out across the water.
On my excursion to San Antonio, the incident
which gave me, perhaps, most pleasure, and may
best be worth mentioning, was the meeting with a
party of four young bloods-partie carree-who,
wishing to see the island, had been sent out by a
Spanish friend of theirs to spend the day at this
small bathing place. Making the journey in the
freshness of the morning, they reached the town
with appetites exceedingly sharp set.  Summoning at
once, therefore, thl)e landlord of the inn at which
they had alighted, they inquired if he could give
them a dgjeuner ad la fourchette.
" Certainly," replied mine host, with the look of
a man who was ready for all emergencies; "and
with what may it please the gentlemen to be
served?"
"Have you fish?" inquired the spokesman of
the party.
The landlord, his eyes sparkling, instantly collected the fingers of his right hand to a point, and,
bringing the same gracefully to his lips, removed
them with an audible kiss, saying:
"The gentlemen shall be served with red snap
278 
279
pers -the best fish in the kingdom of the two
Spains."
"Good. And have you any beefsteaks?"
Another kiss, even more resonant than the for mer, was the reply; while, at the same time, the
portly innkeeper's eyes ran over with smiles, and his
mouth, watering, ran over with saliva.
But to serve a repast so magnificent, required a
little time. The Sefiores must give a half hour for
it-which, on this island, means an hour and a half.
Accordingly, the young gents, in order to kill the
time, sallied forth in their volantes to see the coun try, which, at that hour of the day, was pretty brilliantly illuminated by the sun. But, bidding defiance to heat and dust, they overran no  less than
three plantations, seeing sugar, coffee, and cotton
fields, and got back to breakfast before the waiters
had fuilly done rubbing themselves in garlic, preparatory to bringing in the dishes.
So these tyros of travel sitting down to their
fork brealkfast, the platter of fish was brought in and
set before them, with an air, on the part of the chief
waiter, which seemed to say:
"Sefiores, it is good enough for the king."
The Sefores were hungry, and looked at tile dish
with longing eyes; but what did they behold?  By
the faithl of San Antonio Abad, they saw four fish
EX("URSION'S. 
280     TO DIXIE A:ND THE TROPICS.
heads-four enormous fish heads; and each a head
without a tail, much less a body; but, altogether,
having eight big, glaring eyes, wide open, and all
staring at these foreign gentlemen! The gentlemen
stared in return with their eyeglasses. But it was
of no use; the fish heads with the naked eyes outstared them. And so, after parley and objurgation,
the eaters, completely discomfited, ordered the waiters to remove out of their sight the heads of the
eaten.
But now came the turn for the waiters to open
their eyes a little. The Sefiores not eat fish heads!
They stood still in their places, absolutely petrified
in the face, and their feet as good as glued to the
floor with amazement. Not eat the heads of the red
snapper! It was some seconds before they could
recover presence of mind sufficient to obey orders.
But as they finally did so, their countenances changed.
To  surprise succeeded the expression of contempt.
Surely, they thought, these caballeros from the
States were, at home, no better than flunkys.
And one of the mozos, who was a black boy, in
taking the platter out of the room, was overheard to
say to his fellows, with a significant pointing of his
thumb over his shoulder:
"Fish heads too good for'erm!'
Trhe foreign gents then awaited, in mingled indig 
EXCURSIONS.
nation and dismay, the serving of the steaks. On
their appearance, however, the party took courage,
seeing that this dish had, at least, no eyes wherewith
to stare them out of countenance. The steaks had,
on the contrary, a decidedly gentle and inoffensive
expression, being cow's meat-the meat of cows no
longer suited, by reason of age, to the purposes of
the dairy. They had, in fact, been jerked beef when
already on the hoof; and now, though done in oil
and onions, were not susceptible of mastication except between the molars of a native.
But the leading gent of the party ventured so far
as to attempt to swallow one of the morsels; while
the others, less rash, paused to see the result. They
not only held back, but they almost held their breath
during the performance of the experiment. And
well they might; for the face of the adventurous
young man became, in the act of swallowing, first
red and then purple. In fact, he was on the point of
-suffocating- not, of course, from the steak, but
from indignation, and gasped out:
"Help! unbutton my waistcoat!"
Finally, they all made their breakfast on bread
soaked in wine and water. For on good Spanish
bread, as I have elsewhere had occasion to observe,
nobody need starve; and so the young men all departed, leaning on this staff of life, and obliged to
281 
282     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
content themselves with the simple pleasure of pay.
ing their bill, which amounted to three dollars for
each person. As usually happens in this country, the
landlord had decidedly the best of it; he being left
in possession of the steaks and fish heads. He had,
in fact, taken in twelve dollars, and also saved his
bacon.  
CHA P T~ERP XX VIII.
A Cuban Steamer.
WENT to Matanzas by the steamer, going on
board at a late hour in the evening. Spanish
friends had told me that this was the least disagreeable way of making the journey; though they
dropped the hint that some of the vessels, being old
ones, were not quite trustworthy in a norther; and,
indeed, that none of them would put to sea while the
wind was blowing from that bad quarter whence
comes so much discomfort to the Cubans-cold, hurricanes, and filibusters. But, at the hour of my setting off, only the softest zephyrs were fanning the
evening sea; while overhead was spread a canopy
of lustrous stars, pink colored, and green, and silver.
All these hosts of heaven seemed to be set in motion
by the movement of the steamer down the harbor,
accompanying and guarding us, like myriads of the
angels of God. 
TO I)IXIE ANI) THE TROPICS.
Thus divinely and gorgeously attended, we left
behind the city with its thousand lights, the Moro
with its fire beacons, the harbor flashing with phos phorescent ripples; and passed at once out upon the
ocean, to find it more softly but scarcely less beauti fully illumined by the light of the tropical moon.
Like a cork in the water, the little steamer rose and
sank with the heaving of the great ocean's breast.
But no storm winds that night were abroad on the
deep; and the dark island lay sleeping in the embrace of the moonlit sea as peacefully as, in the
wakeful mother's arms, the infant.
But what a Babel is the cabin of this Cuban
coasting steamer! Two or three different languages
are being spoken, the Spanish scarcely predominating
over the English; and everybody is speaking at once.
In the gentlemen's cabin there is an equally great
confusion of postures, the passengers having assumed
all possible attitudes-standing, sitting, reclining,
lying. All, too, are smoking-even those who are
asleep. At least, a number have gone to bed with
unlighted cigars in their mouths, after tired nature
has refused to smoke any longer.
The scent of the tobacco must, of course, reach
the ladies' cabin, which is separated only by an illshutting door from that of the gentlemen. But do
not suppose that the fair Sefioras are annoyed by it.
284 
A
A CUBAN STEAMER. 
On the contrary, two out of the three Cuban ladies
who occupied the narrow quarters, lay in their berths
smoking through half the night, and spitting, too, on
the floor, wholly regardless of the direction. The
third seemed less addicted to the use of the weed;
still even she could not muster strength enough to
arise next morning without the help of a cigarito.
First having rolled it with the very prettiest of
tapering fingers, she lighted it by the cigar of the
man-maid who, during the greater part of the night,
had been in and out of the room, apparently for no
other purpose than to keep the Sefloras' cigars going.
In fact, the three smoked, spat, jabbered, giggled,
and ha-ha-ed until long past midnight. But they
jested not more freely with each other than with the
mnan in waiting, whenever he came to rekindle their
fires; though pretending, at the same time, to be
dreadfully distressed at his presence.  And yet the
trio were, as the world goes, genteel ladies, having a
good standing in the best society of Havana, and
were dressed in rich silks, fine lacts, and petticoats
six inches deep in embroidery. 
It was a piece of good fortune that the hours of
this night were short ones; though it must be confessed that three o'clock is an early hour for rising,
even in a Spanish country. But at that time of
night the steamer's whistle blew a blast loud enough
285 
286      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
to awaken passengers the most grievously afflicted
with deafness; and in a few minutes we were all
aboard the small boats which had surrounded the
ship, each one with its lantern. It was a good mile
to shore; but the horns of the moon also contributed
to make our water path sufficiently visible.
The boatman, arrived at the landing, looked
sharp at my pesetas, holding them up to his lantern;
but, finding them sufficiently heavy, he passed me
and my baggage on to a negro who was standing,
half asleep, over a wheelbarrow.  The negro, when
aroused from his nap, placed the trunks on his
vehicle, and civilly invited me to follow on foot.
There being no other way of going, on foot I went.
And a sufficiently dismal walk it was; for, in proceedming through the long, dark streets, I found a
plenty of dust, together with a great deficiency of
gas; so that it was not until after much fumbling
and stumbling that I reached the hotel.
At that early hour the heavy door was barred
equally against'ravellers and robbers.  I bade the
negro knock; but he did so in vain. I bade him
knock once more-thrice-four times; but it was
not until he did so with his shoe heels that I heard
the low sound of footsteps within.
"Who's there?" asked the voice of an African,
manifestly half asleep. 
C UTBAN STEAMER.
"Travellers, and men of peace," was the reply.
Thereupon the porter went away, apparently to
some remote part of the house, to get a light; came
back again for I know not what purpose, and then
once more went away, probably to ask permission of
the landlord to admit the outsiders.  It was granted
and the ponderous door on rusty hinges opened to
receive me. I was ushered into the drawing room;
and there the negro would have left me to pass the
remainder of the night, had I not bidden him call his
master, and make ready an apartment. Very submissively but drowsily the porter did his errand;
and, returning, went to bed again. At the end of a
quarter of an hour, no landlord being forthcoming, I
went again for Sambo, otherwise called Crescenzia,
who very obediently, and as if fully expecting to do
so, got uip a second time, and was soon heard in an
adjoining room calling the landlord by name, and
vigorously shaking him. The latter, sufficiently
awake to talk intelligibly, promised to get up and
make provision for the newly arrived guests. So
Crescenzia once more went to his couch, and I once
more began my vigils. Another quarter of an hour
I watched for the coming of the master of the
house; but, instead of approaching footfalls, I could
hear nothing except the stentorian snoring of half a
dozen sleepers. Thereupon, summoning Crescenzia 
TO DIXIE AiVD THE TROPICS.
for the third time, I insisted on goiing with him to
the bedside of the somnolent landlord. Most cheerfully the fellow complied with my order; and,
arrived there, he seized the man by the shoulders,
and shook the sleep out of him by main force;
while I stood by, holding a candle, and seeing that
the operation was thoroughly well done. Of course,
the amo de casa had to open his eyes; he yawned,
stroked his beard, stretched himself, and, rising in
his bed, made me as polite a bow as he well could,
while repressing another yawn by covering his mouth
with the palm of his hand. He now began, as I supposed he would, with expressing his regret that he
had no room in his house unoccupied. Next, having
by this time got his feet out of bed, he said-what I
equally expected to hear-that he would be able to
place an apartment at my disposal in the course of
the day.  It was the old story.  But, finally, by dint
of encouraging him by my regrets at having disturbed him at so unseasonable an hour of the night,
as well as by professions of respect for himself and
the excellent house over which he presided, I succeeded in getting him to say, as he drew on his pantaloons, that he would order a cot to be made up in
the parlor, where I could sleep undisturbed until six
o'clock.
The cot spread, I immediately fell so soundly
288 
A CUBBAN STEAMER.
asleep as not to hear the waiter when he came, at
half past five, to bring me coffee, in accordance with
the Spanish custom of drinking it in bed, preparatory to rising with the lark. However, there are no
larks, I believe, in this country; and one cannot say
here, with the accomplished author of "Thorndale ":
"Rise with the lark; your motions shall obtain
Grace, be their composition what it may,
If but with hers performed."
But there are fighting cocks; and I slept through
the crowing of no less than seventy of them in the
pit, or rather yard, next door.  They had begun
their defiant chanticleering not long after my arrival,
giving tongue in full chorus, the entire roost of
them;  and fiercer or more lusty crowers, surely,
never were collected together next door to a hotel.
Think how many ill-sounding wiords must have been
uttered over these heralds of the dawn by the nervous invalids wont to come every winter to this
island in pursuit of health, and to this lodging house
in expectation of sleep. Alas! to them this pit full
of cocks must have been- of the nature of the pit
Tartarean. However, it was an occupation rather
amusing than otherwise for me, while waiting for a
place to lay my head on, to listen to. the rivalry
which was going on between the snoring sleepers in
1?)3
289 
TO DIXIE A1ND TIJE TR OPICS.
an adjoining room, and these crowers in the adjoining premises-it being a concert peculiarly Spanish.
Matanzas, I may here add, is a pretty town, lying
with its back against the hills, and its front toward
the sea, which here forms a spacious and convenient
harbor. The town is built a certain distance down
on either side of the water, in the form of a horseshoe. At one extremity lies the paseo, commanding
a view of the shipping; and on the other side runs
along the line of shore a pleasant beach, abounding
in shells, and much frequented as a pleasure drive.
Hither the lover of fair sea views goes to see the sun
descend behind the hills, and also to see it rise in the
morning out of the ocean. The paseo is a short
one; but the plaza is larger than that at Havana,
and well filled with flowers. On this square are
many fine houses, built of one story, but, in some
cases, extending from street to street, and having a
courtyard in their centre, with suites of rooms
around it. The drawing room is always on the
street, as well as the hall of entrance, in one or the
other of which stands the volante; for the volante is
kept in Cuba almost as much to be seen as to be
used. The bedrooms are situated in the rear, and
those occupied by the ladies have windows furnished
with iron gratings, and no doors opening externally.
In these chambers the pitchers and basins may be of
290 
A CUBAN STEAMER.
silver; while in some boudoir, or place equally conspicuous, will be displayed the family knives, and
forks, and spoons. The furniture, however, is generally very plain, it being liable to be eaten up by
insects, and to be injured by the intense heat of summer. The floors are laid in tiles or marble, making
the rooms look cool and comfortable in spite of the
ominous mosquito nets. The walls are mostly white,
or stained with little show of art; though a few of
the best houses contain frescoed ceilings, and even
such luxuries as a swimming bath, a gymnasium, and
a small theatre. But the principal luxury generally
aimed at in building these houses is a sufficiency of
cool air; so that the rooms are large and lofty, and
incapable of being heated artificially. Indeed, there
are no such things as either stoves or fireplaces, excepting in the kitchen.  This room, by  the way,
though not enjoying a reputation for neatness, is
nevertheless, in private houses, often kept thoroughly
swept and scrubbed, and looking every whit as clean
as the drawing room.
291 
EfA P TER XXIX.
Fighting Cocks.
EFORE  falling asleep on the morning of my
arrival at the hotel, I resolved that it should
be one of the first duties of the day to visit the cockyard whence emanated the extraordinary chanticleering mentioned in the preceding chapter.   Before
seeing the bay of Matanzas, or the paseo, or the sea
beach, or the valley of the Yumori, I would pay a
visit to these cocks, and compliment the Don who
owned them on their remarkable capacity of windpipe.
In fact, I did so before breakfast, and hat'min
hand. It was then past nine o'clock, but the seventy
had not entirely finished heralding the morn. Some
of them, indeed, seemed to be crowing over each
other; and the principal group, immediately on my
entrance, all went off in a blast apparently to do me
honor. But my looks entreated silence. I wished to 
FIGHT ING COCKS.
express without delay to the Don, who stood before
me in a rusty dress coat, and head tied up in a black
silk nightcap, my admiration of his crowers.  And
when silence had been obtained, I at once spread
myself out into an immense circle of amplification
upon the great public advantage there must be to the
town in having its inhabitants-men, women, and
children- all waked up betimes in the morning; a
period of the day so beautiful in these tropical countries, and so favorable everywhere to moral impressions.  The Don bowed his satisfaction; and, in a
strain even more eulogistic, set forth the honor I had
done him, and his cocks, by this visit.
He then ordered the negroes in attendance to
show their best birds; and very noble, f-lil-fledged,
and high-steppinlg fellows they were. Head and
tail, they were of the brightest crimson. They were
also duly plucked on the back; had their spurs on,
and stood as proudly erect on their legs as formerly
did the cock immortalized by Plato. Nor, like so
many young beaux in eyeglasses, would one suffer
another to look at him without instantly replying
with a challenge to mortal combat.   And when I
praised their haughty tread, and boiling, tropical
rage, the thin little Don, bowing almost to the
ground, unhesitatingly put the entire roost at my disposition-a su disposicion de Usted.
293 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
What if I had taken him at his word! For the
man prized each cock at I dare not say how many
ounces. Here was, in fact, a considerable fortune
carefully invested in roosters, as well as a still greater one in anticipation from the doubloons they would
win in the ring.
"This bird," said he, proudly pointing to one tied
near a small hill of earth, "this fellow has killed
three competitors; that one yonder, four-all reckoned among the best fighters on the island."
"Next  Sunday," he continued, "they will win
for me a pile of ounces."
And he made a significant gesture with his hand
to show how high the pile would rise -himself,
meanwhile, strutting with as conquering an air as if
he had been one of his own cocks; his little black
eyes flashing with the rage of combat, and his unconscious hands almost tearing his nightcap to tatters.
So hot was his Castilian blood; and so intensely was
felt, by anticipation, the ire of the day of battle, and
of the pit stained with blood.
No doubt, on the following Sunday, the cockpit
was crowded to its utmost capacity. At least that at
Havana was, the day I saw it; and it was one capable of holding a thousand persons.  Built with an
open but solid framework, only sufficiently covered
to protect it from sun and rain, the seats were
294 
FIGHTING COCKS.
arranged story above story, and were all filled with
Creoles, mostly of the middle class of society.  I
could almost imagine this tower ready to fall to the
ground like that of Babel; for speech was here confounded in the multitude of voices. The moment
the cocks had been weighed and set in the ring, they
began to pitch into each other; and, at that moment,
began also the tumultuous vociferation of the betting. Hundreds of men, half infuriated from sympathy with the madness of the fighting in the pit,
were crying to each other from one part of the
building to the other, every man pointing to his bird
with furious gesticulation, and shouting at the top of
his voice, "A dollar on the red! " "An ounce on the
white!"  And as, in the progress of the spurring
and pecking, the red or the white get the nose-bleed,
or lose an eye, or are knocked over, the betters cry
out to each other, "Two ounces to one on the red!"
"Two ounces to one on the white!"  Every time
the bill draws blood, or there is a hit of the spurs,
the discord of the voices rises higher;  and then,
when one of the cocks seems to give indications of
having had quite enough of the fight, it lulls again.
This lasts until oqe of the two combatants falls lifeless to the ground. Then, for a few minutes, there is
comparative silence, interrupted only by the jingling
of the gold and silver passing from hand to hand.
295 
TO DIXIE A-VD TIHE TROPICS.
For, wherever there is cock-fighting, there is betting;  pockets are emptied of small gains;  and
doubloons, too, are tossed about with the duros.
But can anything be either more absurd or hardhearted, than this enthusiasm of men over the paltry
rage of a couple of roosters! And no wonder that,
in countries where such amusements prevail, the
national face is so little expressive of sensibility and
delicate emotion.
296
I 
CHA P TER XXX.
A Xatanzas Fonda.
Y half past nine o'clock I had returned  firom
the cockyard to the Fonda, and was ready for
breakfast. And an excellent Spanish breakfast it
proved to be, with Catalan wine, which, in these
tropics, I drank with greater relish than formerly in
Catalqnia. But the chef-d'oeuvre of the meal was, I
will not say, the beefsteak pie, so much relished by
the Cubans, but the tortilla con seso. This is a very
famous dish.  You may not relish the idea of a brain
omelette, but you will be a happy man the day you
taste its reality.  I could tell you how to make it, if
it would be of any use.  2 i, indeed, not to leave
your curiosity unsatisfied, know that there must be a
small cup of boiled seso; nor be disturbed at the
thought of adding half the quantity of chopped
onions. A delicate flavor of parsley also, must per
vade it.  It must be hot with pepper.  And when
13* 
298     TO DIXIE A_ND THE TROPICS.
you know that four eggs are to be added, you know
all that can well be told about it. Then, if you do
not succeed to,our mind in making it, take a trip to
Matanzas some day, and get permission to see it done
by the cook of the fonda.
But there is one thing I cannot explain to you at
all; and that is, why prima donnas should expose
themselves at the public breakfast tables without
their faces being painted. It causes such a perfect
disenchantment, that no one who has beheld them
under such circumstances in the morning, can possibly get up the illusion requisite for enjoying the
entertainment of the stage in the evening. It also
might puzzle me to tell why American ladies should
come to breakfast in dresses decolletees.  So much
dressing at this early hour was certainly very illsuited to the apartment in which the meal was
served, it being no other than the hall of entrance,
with its porte cochere, and opening, without any
door, on the inner courtyard. Nor was the drawing
room itself much better adapted to the exhibition of
over-elegant toilets; fdhehere the gentlemen smoked
their cigars in the presence of the ladies; and there
suddenly appeared, one morning, in the midst of the
assembled company, the landlord's horse, who proceeded through the room as quietly as if he had
been a guest of the house, and quite as unconcerned 
A MATANZAS FO0VDA.
at the remarks which were made about him.  Hewas on his way to the stable, the door of which he
seemed perfectly well able to distinguish from the
others standing open in its vicinity. He even knew
enough to stop before a clothes line stretched across
the court; standing there until the wet linen had
been lifted for him to pass under. Truly a very
sagacious brute, and well-behaved!
My room was on the first floor, as were all others,
and so convenient of access that, on entering it, I
could but recall to mind the case of the stout lady
from Cuba, who, being so unfortunate as to have an
apartment in the fifth story of one of the hotels in
New York, resorted to the trick of fainting every
time she came in from the street, in order that she
might be carried up stairs by the waiters.  The rse
answered very well for a time; until, one day, Patrick and James vowed that they would be blistered
before they would carry the lady up any more,
unless they had each a quarter for it. Whereupon
the lady ceased fainting.
MIy room opened on the inner court, by a door
large enough to admit two horses abreast; and of
the same size was the window, which had heavy
wooden shutters inside, and a still more heavy iron
grating without. There being no glass, the passerby looked through the open grating upon the occu
299 
300     TO DIXIE A.D THE TROPICS.
pants of the apartment, very much as, in a menagerie, he would take a peep at the lions. There, at
half past five o'clock in the morning, appeared the
venerable black woman who brought-me coffee, and
peeled oranges; and so black, withal, was she, as
almost to put out the breaking light of the dawn,
bringing back Erebus and the old night. Certainly
she would have done it, but for the lighted end of
her cigar, and the white of her eyes. There is, in
fact, no such thing as privacy in a Cuban fonda.
The partitions between the rooms extend only two
thirds of the way up to the ceiling; so that all conversation not carried on in an undertone is necessarily overheard by your nearest neighbors.  If,. in
their sleep, any of them happen to have the nightmare, you are sure to know it; while every word
Mrs. Caudle says to Mr. Candle goes through half
the house, and terrifies all the husbands.
Nor was I the sole occupant of my apartment.
For in one corner, between the rafters-all of which
were uncovered-a couple of very loquacious bats
had built their nest. And, though quiet through the
day, they kept up, at night, a perpetual chattering.
Judging from the noise, one would have said there
was a large family of bat-children in the nest. They
certainly had a great deal to say for themselves;
but, for my part, I never spoke to them, nor in any 
A MA TA NZAS FO NI)DA.
way gave them to understand that I was aware of
their presence; so that, in fact, the two familiesmine and theirs-though living in the same apartment, took as little notice of each other as might
have done any two parties of Englishmen thrown
together by chance on their travels. The beams of
the roof had been left bare for the sake of better
ventilation; as, for the sake of the additional coolness, the floor had been laid in Cement. The walls
also were of a cold color, being whitewashed. The
couches had no mattresses, and did not look at all
hot, like, for example, the feather beds of the Teutonic nations.  On two slender tripods stood two
very small white basins. There was one pine table,
and on it a toilet glass twelve inches by eighteen.
A row of nails driven into the wall answered the
purpose of a wardrobe,  and  had probably been
driven there by some travelling Yankee, who had
the wit to invent this species of clothespress. There
was no carpet on the floor; but before the two beds
lay two rugs, luckily of a pattern so small as to preclude the idea that the fleas of the house could possibly think of having a wake or mass meeting under
them. Such were the quarters wherein I passed a
week most happily, if not comfortably; and to the
credit of the Cuban family in the ceiling, be it re
301 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
peated, that, during all this time, they picked no
quarrel with me.
The nails which the sagacious Yankee had driven
into the wall of my room answered still another excellent purpose; for thereupon, every morning, was
hung the day's supply of fruit. A big basket held
the oranges; the bananas were suspended by their
branches, and the pines were tied up by strings; but
the cocoanuts were more conveniently heaped in a
corner.  With all this abundance of sweet stores,
and a bottle of Catalan wine, I pleased myself with
the thought that I could easily endure a famine, or a
siege of twenty-four hours' duration; and, certainly,
the plank door, as well as the iron gratings of the
windows, would have held out that length of time
against any reasonable number of beggars or bandits.
302 
CHA P TEiR XXXI.
The Cumbre.
F you happen, toward evening, to be standing in
the doorway of your fonca at Matanzas, and
see a very good-looking negro drive up, with a
couple of stout horses and a tolerably neat volante,
do not think of engaging him for an excursion, next
morning, to the valley of the Yumori. Hie will ask
eight dollars and a half for about three hours' service.  HIe will agree to go even for six-I dare say
for five; but the trouble is, that he will not come to
fulfil the engagement at either price. Should you
appoint the hour of sunrise for the setting off-the
time of day when the nosotros and genuine Spanish
Christians usually begin their journeys-you will
have the satisfaction of getting up early, and waiting
all the morning for a black man; but he will not
come.  He will not come-and this is the key to this 
304    * TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
small mystery-unless ordered by your landlord, who
shares with him the fee.
Accordingly, I ordered my volante in the regular
way, through mine host. I desired it to come at five
o'clock, and it arrived at six; which was very good
luck, considering the dilatory habits of the gentry of
the whip in Matanzas. And how pleasant it is to set
off on an expedition to the country in the freshness
of the Southern morning! In fine style the tandem
took us through the streets, already astir with industry; and as we crossed the bridge, the bay was
flooded with the amber light of sunrise. The shipping lay partially enveloped in a mist, which was like
dust of gold; while the ripples on the water, just
awaking from their night's slumbers, resembled a
wide expanse of gilded fretwork.  We gazed with
delight at the fair, artistic scene, as we passed on
along the paseo; and, after reaching the hillside beyond the town, turning around, we gazed again; for
it was, indeed, a genuine Claude, and no copy.
Ah, how fresh, how still was that morning air!
how blue the sky overhead, and white the thin,
fleecy clouds that floated in it, as the volante wound
its way up the gentle acclivities of the Cumbre!
The heavy dews  of the night, which  had been
brought down by the land wind to this margin of
shore, lay in drops in the hollow of every leaf, and 
THE C UMBRE.
hung from every blade of grass and projecting point
of vegetation. We climbed up the road of rocks,
between flowering hedges and thickets draped with
morning glories delicately pink-tinted.  The fields on
either side were crowded with a rank growth of
strange plants and shrubs, mingled with flowers of
such gorgeous beauty as is becoming on an island
lying so directly in the eye of the sun.
It was a region of country much neglected by the
owners of the soil, but wherein nature wrought with
irrepressible power, and with a satisfaction apparently none the less deeply felt by herself for' not
being noticed by the eye of man.  At all the villas
by the wayside, including those which stood unoccupied, and with broken gates, we saw groves of crimson oleanders, here endowed with fragrance. For
long distances by the roadside there wexe magnificent rows of aloes, at this season just out of flower;
the very stone walls w-ere tipped with cactus, or
hung with jessamines; and scarcely a bank or patch
of grass was anywhere to be seen of which the flowers did not make a fair enamel.  Here and there we
passed under specks of shade, cast by palms, and
phies, and  wild  oranges.   Cattle, also, we  saw
browsing in the pastures, and striped-faced goats
nibbling by the roadside, and flocks of sheep on the
distant hilltops.
305 
306     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
As we mounted the upper heights, the air became
still purer than below. To the golden haze of the
morning succeeded the more brilliant light of the sun,
shining in full splendor, without a cloud. The blue
waters of the bay lay far beneath us; while the
ocean, whitened by many coming and going sails,
stretched away beyond reach of the eye. Alas!
what lacked the heights of the Cumbre, surmounted
by graceful palm trees, and blooming with flowers
just washed in the dews of the morning-what
lacked this view of mountain, and plain, and shore;
of city, and harbor, and the sea? Only the nightingales of the Pyrenees and Sorrento!
Perhaps, however, there is one more thing to be
desired on these beautiful mountain tops; and that
is, better roads whereby to reach them.  As it was,
we came by a mere cart track, so full of rocks and
stones, and all manner of holes, that none but welltrained animals could pick their way through them;
while no carriages with wheels less large and cumbrous than those of the volante would escape a
breakdown. Nevertheless, in this buoyant air one
can hardly experience the sensation of fatigue, and
instantly forgets the toil of the ascent the moment
the height is gained, from which he looks down upon
the valley of the Yumori.
In the neighborhood of Matanzas there is, truly,
I 
THE CUMBRE.
no second sight to be seen after it; and whoever, on
beholding the bay of Naples, failed to be overtaken
by the wish to close his eyes on all sublunary scenes,
may possibly feel that he has reached his final climax
when once he has seen the Yumnori.  Its features are
well known to those who are familiar with printed
descriptions of this island; for it is the lifelong
boast of all travellers who have ever seen it. Every
tourist will tell you that it is like the happy valley
of Rasselas, prince of Abyssinia; and you will do
well to believe him. For, imagine yourself standing
on the summits of the Cumbre, and looking down
into a valley encircled by mountains, as if it had
formerly been the bottom of a great lake. Around
its entire edge it is filled with softly rounded hills,
sloping gently toward its centre, which consists of a
comparatively level plain.  And on the tops and sides
of all these gracefully rolling hills, as well as at intervals throughout the plain, imagine innumerable
palm trees, white stemmed and green topped, standing either alone, or gathered in open groups. They
form the drapery of the landscape, which, when I
saw it, was more beautiful from being, in the remote
distance, partially veiled by the still lingering mists
of the morning.   How lovely not only these dark
palms, like the cattle on a thousand hills, but how
soft and fair the green of the sugar plant which cov
0
307 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS,
ered the greater part of the vales and hillsides!
Even those declivities the soil of which had been
recently turned by the plough, being of a rich brown
or chocolate color, heightened the beauty of the
mosaic landscape; while the few hills which were
not under cultivation, but overgrown with wild shrubbery, displayed the purple tints of English moors, or
of the heaths of Scotland.  We  lingered long in the
presence of this great beauty of nature, and declared, as we drove along the mountain's brow, overlooking it, that this was a happy valley, whether or
not that of Rasselas. And, far below, we descried
on one of these rounded hilltops a snug little villa,
with its gardens and palm groves, which we affirmed
should henceforth be numbered among our chateaux
en Espagne.  Two or three other villas, at which we
stopped on our way, were also pretty; and at one
of them we were hospitably entertained with such
oranges as no prince of Abyssinia ever tasted; with
cigars which were the very topmost leaf and flower
of all tobacco; and with a glass of whiskey that
was as the dew of the mountain, even of this bread
mountain, called -Pan de Matanzas. We here saw
coffee and cotton plants, as well as the sugar cane in
different stages of growth, and the process of sugar
making. We: likewise tasted, for the first time, the
sweetness of this Southern reed, the negro in attend
308 
THE CU]BRE
ance peeling it with his knife, and handing it to us to
be sucked, as do small boys their sticks, one end in
paper, of molasses candy. It made a tropical and
rather refreshing entertainment; though, to my
taste, this is one of the few sweets of life which are
a trifle too much sweetened. Meanwhile, our ears
were likewise entertained with the novel cries and
songs of the neighboring sugar house, and the clatter
of the mules, as, drivenby half-naked boys and girls,
with whip in hand, they kept in motion this grand
hurly-burly of the grinding. Servants everywhere
attended us in our joyful progress about the estate,
all grinning to do us pleasure. They gathered for
us gorgeous bouquets of flowers; while one of the
dusky damsels more comely than the rest, and, indeed, of blood almost purely Spanish, wore orange
blossoms in her hair-the only ones we had seen so
worn on the island. Specimens of tropical fruits
were eagerly, exhibited; and a nimble black boy,
greatly to our amusement, shinned up a palm to cut
some cocoanuts. A very sleek and happy-looking
set of servants were they all at this chateau. The
gobblers which greeted us in the courtyard, and
spread their tails in honor of our arrival, were not
more swollen and puffed than were these fellows,
men and maids, all blown with hilarity and joy at
09 
1TO DIXIE ANTD THE TROPICS.
the coming of the strangers from parts to them un
known.
And so, after an excursion of three hours' length
prolonged to six, we drove up to the doors of our
fonda, as happy as the morning had been long, and
as hungry as a man should be who sits down to the
tortillas of mine excellent landlady.
310 
HAP TER XXXZI.
A Cuban Railway.
FROM MIatanzas to Havana I went by rail.
Some Spanish gentlemen of my acquaintance
endeavored to dissuade me from proceeding by land,
inasmuch as the railroad, being a monopoly, is used
principally for the transportation of sugar; and, so
long as the freight trains can be kept on the track,
small pains are taken about the comfort or safety of
passengers. Three or four times in the week the
passenger trains run off the road, or are delayed on
it in consequence of the failure of the engines. To
be sure, no lives are lost, the engineers always selecting soft places to go off on, and performing the
operation in the very gentlest manner possible. But,
though one's neck be not broken, he may be detained
half a day in an open plain, parched by the sun of
the tropics, or he may be kept over night where it
will cost him a quarter of an ounce to order a sup 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
per, which, when ordered, will never be served, or,
when served, will never be eaten. However, I went
by the rail.
The train started at sunrise; and it would be
superfluous to say that it was a fine morning; but it
may be worth remarking, that we set'off on the
stroke of six, as punctuality is a rare virtue so near
the equator. It made a very good start, but, before
getting more than four or five miles out of town,
suddenly came to a full stop in the open country.
This was a halt requiring explanation; and, upon
inquiry, it turned out that the conductor had received a signal at a certain point on the road, which
induced him to stop, after he had got about a mile
beyond it.  Hie then sent back a man on foot, while
the train was kept waiting.   Why the train itself
did not go back as to have done so would have
taken comparatively little time-it was not easy to
guess. Indeed, the conductor himself finally walked
back a quarter of a mile, and then, tmurning about,
walked forward again.  All these movements were
very Spanish, and quite inexplicable.
But the long delay gave the officials having
charge of the train an opportunity to inspect its
condition, and see what might have given out in the
course of the run of four or five miles.  Nor did it
take loing to ascertain that something had gone
312 
A CUBAN RAILWAY. 
wrong. We had broken a brake, one end of which
lay upon the ground, and looked as though it had
not succumbed a moment before its time.  However,
we got on quite as well without the brake as with it.
Nothing more came to pieces during the journey;
and we kept the track to the end. The Chinese
appeared to make sufficiently intelligent brakemen;
while some of them also supplied the passengers,
from time to time, with peeled oranges. At one of
the stations I bought most delicious cheese cakes,
served on green banana leaves; so delicious, indeed,
that uxorious husbands have been known to be
tempted to repeat this journey simply for the sake
of giving their wives another taste of them.
One more Spanish peculiarity, however, noticed
in the running of the road, was, that, after the accident to the brake, the engineer backed the train a
hundred yards or more, apparently for no other purpose than that of starting it; as when, in leaping, a
man steps back a few paces, in order to give himself
a better chance for accomplishing the feat successfu]ly. So, at Guines, the train backed a full mile
before leaving. It might possibly have been for the
purpose of allowing another train to pass; but I suspected that the conductor thought it necessary to
take unusual pains not to make a bad start, inasmuch
as the day was Friday.
14
313 
314      TO D)IXIE AND) THE TROPICS.
The country through which the road passes, being
occupied chiefly by sugar plantations, is beautiful
throughout, and, in some places, picturesque.  The
palm trees, of the sight of which one.never tires,
escorted us in groups and groves the whole distance
to Havana, as the stars had previously done on our
way along the coast to Matanzas.  And scarcely less
graceful than the palms were the thickets of reeds,
which grew in clusters by the roadside. If the former trees reminded us, by the color of their stems,
of the white birch of our Northern home, so the
delicate leaves, slender branches, and bending heads
of the latter brought.to mind, also, the graceful foliage of this well-ca]led lady of the woods. The
mango tree resembles our chestnut, presenting a
dense mass of green leaves, the extremities of which,
at this season, are tipped with the orange and purple
of the bursting buds. Interspersed together were
everywhere to be seen magnolias, with their large,
glossy, dark-green leaves; tall pines of a delicate
shade of bluish green, and lightly fringed with
needles; and orange trees at the same time golden
with fruit and white with blossoms. Hiere towered
the ceiba tree with its strong, graceful stem, and
wore its crown of rich green leaves above the tops
even of the palms. The darker mameys were loaded
with fruit gray-colored; the sapota tree with fruit 
A CUBAN RAILWAY. 
of brown;  the tamarind drooped with pods;  the
calabash was hung with round balls; the leaves of
the banana were swayed by the wind, revealing its
fruit clusters and buds of violet; while only here
and there the cypress cast firom its mournful boughs
a frown on the smiling face of the landscape.  Up
many a lordly stem climbed the female fig-yuagua
embra-holding it in a beautiful though fatal embrace; the lovely convolvulus, entwining itself around
the trunks of dead monarchs of the woods, decked
them with palls of white flowers; and innumerable
tops of tall trees were tufted with various parasitical
plants, the orchids and the aloes, all their flowers
laughing in the sunlight, or dancing in the wind.
Many misshapen forms, indeed, come to view in these
tropical woods; and in the midst of all this abounding life there is constant decay. But the grace of
parasitical plants creeping everywhere, and beautiful
with every tint of flowers, is hung like a veil over
the deformity of nature.
The undergrowth of shrubbery, likewise, is most
luxuriant, and shows much gorgeous coloring. The
wild passion-flowers are of many different varieties;
the hedges are covered with several kinds of convolvulus; the fever-flower flaunts in flame and gold;
the species of aloe plant, called peta, burns a stately
candelabra with fire of yellow; the mangroves hold
315 
TO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS
out to the passer-by white chalices full of perfume;
the apple rose scents the air around it so deliciously
as to hold all footsteps, as in an enchanted circle,
spellbound; the wild heliotrope runs modestly by
road and path sides; while everywhere fly, amid the
flowers and the sunshine, humming birds and butterflies, and countless insects, all flashing with the tints
of precious stones and the bow in heaven. All the
forms of nature were high colored-flowers, foliage,
the sky, and even the very ground itself:  Indeed,
the red dust which occasionally filled the railway carriages painted as well as powdered all our faces, and
imparted to our travelling dresses a tinge quite as
warm as that of the landscape. But, in spite of the
clouds of dust which we had to encounter at some
few points on the road, it was a pure delight to
breathe the air of the open country; and I remember that, after our luncheon of oranges, bought fiom
the palm basket of the Chinese brakeman, we not
only pronounced the juice equal in sweetness to that
of the apples which tempted the first of women, but
would have it that the island itself was not a very
bad copy of the original Eden.
At any rate,'tis hard leaving it. Indeed, the
difficulty of getting away from Spanish countries is
greater than persons who have never visited them
can well imagine. To arrive, is, generally, no easy
316 
A CUBAN RAILWAY.
matter; but to depart-there's the rub.  It costs
just double the money to get out that it does to get
in, and more than double the trouble. For example: the porter, when I went to the hotel in Havana,
charged me a dollar and a half; when I left it, three
dollars. The boatman asked one for landing, two
for embarking. The passport fee was, on arriving,
two dollars; on departing, four.  Landlord, porter,
boatman, official, all act on the principle of fleecing
the parting guest, not speeding him. Nor, even
after having satisfied the demands, just and unjust,
of these worthies, can a man leave the island except
by permission of his wife; for, under the Spanish
law, she can stop him, by showing cause.
317 
CHAPTER AXXIII.
2assau-A  Winter Newport.
N eight-and-forty hours, or less, one may steam
from Havana to Nassau, and see the tropical
Englishman -a sight worth seeing.   Leaving the
island of the black-haired, olive-faced men, and making a short run across the northern tropic, the traveller is again among the blue eyes, and complexions
which take on fireckles. At the same time, he feels
that he has reached once more a free country; that
he has passed from beneath the law of military force,
under that of liberty and a protecting public opinion.
HIere are no more stilettoes, no grated windows, nor
the heavily barred doors of the Spaniards.   The
Nassauese have not, it is true, either paseos, or guitars at night beneath the moon; but, instead of I)omenica's, here are the town  library and reading
room; instead of the opera, here are concerts and
lectures once a fortnight at the Bahama Institute; 
NASSAU-A WTINTER XEWPORT.
fashionable calls, between the hours of twelve and
three, take the place of the midday siesta; and the
stranger who has been entertained with ices and
volctntes, finds himself once more asked to dinner.
Indeed, my dear reader, you might even risk the
voyage direct from New York, for the sake of exchanging, for once, your Northern winter for the
perpetual summer of this green little island, so
piously called New Providence, and so conveniently
anchored just oni the shady side of the Tropic of
Cancer. Such a change of residence, once in half a
dozen years, would cure all your chilblains, and even
lengthen the days of your life; inasmuch as the winter's sun rises here an hour earlier, and lingers at
evening an hour later above the horizon. Sitting, in
the month of January, with open windows, and looking out upon the golden firuits hanging amid the
leaves so deeply green, one call scarcely refrain from
wondering why the frost-bitten nations do not every
winter follow the sun to the south, pouring down
into these Hiesperides as formerly the rough Goths
and Vandals descended into the sunny plains of
Italy.
Come, then, once before you die-come  along
with the migratory birds to the islands of perpetual
serenity, where the great god of day will have a
chance to melt the icicles out of your beard, and
319 
320      TO I)LVYE ANI) TIIE TROPICS.
cure your rheumatism, like a doctor. It will be a
change for you, my hyperborean friend, second only
to that of being born again. And do not think that
you will see snakes here, or centipedes; do not be
alarmed by the bugbear of bedbugs; and don't get
unduly excited at the thought of a single mosquito
buzzing at night under your curtains, or of a flea or
two, instead of the good angels keeping watch and
ward over you while you sleep. M1y word for it,
nobody will see snakes here, excepting those persons
who look for them; and nobody but the most determined sight-seers will be shocked at anything much
worse than the beautiful chameleons, and the lizards,
which from tree and wall do sometimes curse the
passing negroes. So, throwing over your head your
furs and muffler, your mittens and jack boots, your
two top-coats and umbrella, come down here by the
"Cunarder "-since Collins and the Yankees have
gone to the bottom-and, making yourself comfortable in a thin jacket and slippers, get into one of
these hammocks, slung on the cool side of the piazza,
and rest yourself, after so many years of pacing up
and down Broadway, and around the Boston Common.
But as to the tropical Englishman whom you
have come to see, the most remarkable thing about
him is that he is an Englishman still. He may be a 
NASSA U-A WINTER NEWPO-RT.
little less red in the face, less heavy in the cheeks,
shrunk a trifle in his calves, and bound about the
loins with a somewhat narrower girdle-growing to
look, in form, just the least bit in the world like a
palm tree. In fact, owing to the greater dryness of
the climate, the comparative toughness of tropical
roast beef, and the diminished convenience of the
ale tap, he has suffered, in most instances, considerable waste in his adipose cellular tissue; and his
muscle has grown less juicy. For the greater part
of the year, also, he wears linen instead of his natural woollen; and puts, moreover, so much starch into
it, that his nightcap is sometimes almost as able to
stand alone, when he goes to bed, as he is; while his
sleeping-robe is liable to stalk about his chamber like
a ghost, whenever the wind blows. The pith hat,
the Panama, or a straw wound about with fine linen,
makes here a partial disguise for an Englishman; as
do also the morning jacket of white flannel, and
shoes of white duck. The most careless obseiver,
however, when seeing him going the round of fashionable calls in the tropical midday, dressed in black
tail-coat and stovepipe, cannot fail of recognizing the
original John Bull. Besides, he wears his gaiters,
and leg-of-mutton whiskers.
Moreover, let the Bahama Englishman dress or
look as he may, he always regards the mother counn
14*
321 
322        TO -DIXIE AND  T'HE TROPICS.
try-not the colony wherein he lives-as his home.
Although well enough pleased, it may be, with this
American side of the world, he nevertheless is seized
every few years with a longing to revisit the other
and better one. He must needs recruit his health,
impaired by the excess of sunshine which nature
never intended he should be exposed to; and goes
back to the English climate, as to the wet sheet
and vapor bath of the water cure. Particularly, if a
North Briton, there is a sort of necessity in his constitution that hlie should be well drenched once every
five or seven years in his native fogs; nothing sufficing so effectually as this to dilute his over-thick
blood, and fill his shrivelled skin again.  Thus the
visit to the mother country, being the crowning joy
of the colonist's life-and, in fact, the most fondly
cherished hope of his heart being, one day, to take
fortune and family back to the circle of well-remembered friends left behind in the imperial isle he is
no true West Indian. He cannot be said so much to
be transported into the soil of these Bahamas, as to
be temporarily set out in a pot of it; so that, at any
convenient moment, he can easily be removed, and
take all his roots with him.  Hence, his colonial interest is almost entirely personal or official. All his
public spirit, his patriotism, his national pride, centre
in Old England.  He has no colonial literature, but 
NASSA U-A WINTER NEWPORT.
reads the London Times. Living on an islet of
coral and limestone, in the midst of the democratic
waters of the American ocean, he still maintains the
spirit and the forms of monarchy, and goes almost
as gladly to court in Government House as ever he
did to St. James's.  The old established institutions
of neither church nor state are much modified to suit
his colonial condition; but, bringing with him even
to the New World his ancient true church, he loves,
on Sundays, to wait for two long hours in a pew,
though the mercury stand at ninety, while the bierarch, with three colors to his back, prays for sinners,
and "all the nobility."
Not all the oranges and watermelons of the tropics can alter the Briton's native-born taste for old
port, sherry, and malt liquors.   He  imports roast
beef in tin firom the mother country, ratlier than
order fresh meat in ice from New York; and buys
an English plum pudding hermetically sealed, sooner
than eat one made in the colony.  Having attached
to his house a flower garden, fruit orchard, poultry
yard, and sometimes a bit of a lawn, he surrounds
all with a high stone wall, as beyond sea, and bottles
it. Piazzas he must have to shelter lhim from the
sun, as also green goggles to his eyes, and, over his
head, a blue umbrella; but he does not need chimneys in his dwelling house, and has left all his coals
323 
1'O -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
behind in Newcastle. A steady though small fire,
however, he keeps up in his kitchen; for the old
English virtue of hospitality still lives and thrives
in the Bahamas, where the well-accredited stranger
finds open doors and groaning tables, being wellnigh
as welcome as he would formerly have been to Robinson Crusoe. Indeed, the favored guest might almost be tempted to think that, although the cheeks
of the Nassauese Englishman grow less and less to
resemble shaddocks the more he eats them, yet his
generous, sympathetic disposition does gradually
secrete some additional sweetness from the tropical
oranges and sapodillas. I myself have met persons
here whose hearts ran over with sugary juices precisely like their mangoes. Even my shoemaker sent
me a present of shaddocks, and my shopkeeper overwhelmed me with sweet oranges and grape fruit.
This New Providence, chief island of the Bahamas, and of which the town of Nassau is the capital, is only a small paradise, in extent some seven
miles by twenty. On the side of the capital it has a
horizon of islands and cays-Rose islands and Silver
cays-with white-topped breakers rolling, in rough
weather, between. Within, the harbor is as green as
an emerald on a lady's finger; while the sea beyond,
blue as lapis lazuli, and sprinkled with bright yellow
gulf weeds floating on its surface, may bring to
324 
.VASSA U-A WINTER NEWPORT.
mind perchance, the beautiful mantle of blue and
gold which Carlo Dolce has thrown over the shoulders of his La Poesia.
Though a mere calcareous rock, composed of
corals, shells, madrepores, and various deposits, and
almost entirely destitute of soil, the island is nevertheless either tufted with palms, orange, and other
fruit trees, or overgrown with tangled brushwood.
Nearly everything grows directly out of the rock,
wellnigh as great a miracle as when, in sacred times,
water was drawn from it by the rod of Mloses. But
it takes a stone mason to set out a tree here; and it
will grow all the better for the help of sponges and
sawdust; while the farmer may
"Lay down the shovel and the hoe,"
using, instead, crowbar, saw, and pickaxe. Still, the
rock being highly porous as well as soft, the roots
of trees run freely in all directions below the surface, and derive sufficient moisture from the reservoir of rain water, which, at the depth of a few
feet, rests upon the salt water from the sea, rising
and falling with the latter's daily tides. Every foot
of the island is covered with verdure; so great is
the vegetative power of nature in the tropics, spite
of the lack of mould. The silk-cotton tree throws
out its flat buttresses wide enough for the stabling
3'25 
326      TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
of horses, and spreads its branches over an area one
or two hundred feet in diameter. The cocoa palms
and the Australian pines overtop the town.  Many
even of the larger trees bear flowers; while tall
shrubs of various tropical varieties-oleanders, white,
red, and pink, the yellow elder, the scarlet hibiscus,
the white and golden jessamines, the coral flower,
the  plumerias and popinacs-projecting over the
walls and peeping out of all the gardens, dash with
bright colors the general green of the landscape.
The air plant grows luxuriantly out of the rock; and
the night-blooming cereus likes to climb a fence or
gateway, on which it can get plenty of air and light,
and see the world go by. It also runs up the trunks
of tall trees, mingling its thick, fleshy leaves with
the green foliage; and even scaling the sides of
houses, it mounts to the chimney top, lifting its head
above it as exultingly as, in continental Europe, does
the merry, singing Savoyard.  The sandy shores are
firinged even to the water's edge with acacias, hops,
and sea grapes. The moonlight flower, open at
night, answers with its pure white to the silver light
from the skies; and the morning glory is too happy
to wish to fold itself in sleep before evening.  Nature even preys upon herself, from excess of vigor;
the wild fig strangling in its embrace the tamarind
and almond trees; and the bindweed and the love 
.ASSA U-A WINTER NEWPORT.
vine hanging upon the highest branches of the
groves their heavy drapery of leaves and innumerable filaments.
But the great charm of the island consists in its
climate-so mild and soft, the expression in the face
of your pet kid is not more so. During the season
of winter, the ordinary range of the thermometer is
between seventy and eighty degrees of Fahrenheit;
the mercury going higher only occasionally, when
the relaxing south wind blows, and not falling lower
except during the prevalence of the bracing northers. The atmosphere is almost purely that of the
ocean-soft, balmy, and having the fragrance of salt
water in it. It is, in fact, the air of a ship's deck on
a fine summer morning in the middle latitudes. The
evenings, unlike those of IHavana, are often moist
with dew; though the stars shine with all the brilliancy of the winter night at the North, and the
moonlight is very much brighter. Indeed, the silver
crescent, when only two days old, brings out the
shadows; while the full moon makes the limestone
streets look as white as if covered with newly fallen
snow. Day after day the wind blows here only a
pleasant summer breeze, its pace not exceeding half
a dozen miles the hour; though when, once or twice
a month, the norther comes, he presses on at the rate
of some twenty pounds to the square foot, making
327 
328      TO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
all things rattle; so that, for three nights in succession, no man can sleep without "spools" in his window shutters. Still, the north wind, in its passage
over the gulf stream, loses much of the coldness
which it possesses when, coming across the State of
Florida, it reaches Havana. It is considered by the
natives a good tonic-though rather an overdose, I
thought.
Bright days, bright nights-they are together
like diamonds strung with pearls. And the tropical
fruits and flowers correspond with the brilliancy of
the climate. The town is full of gardens, wherein
the palm waves and the oleander blooms, and the
orange hangs out its globes of gold, half hid among
bridal blossoms. The sapodillas and the mangoes onl
the trees are, like the sands on the seashore, innumerable. The shaddocks grow to great size-as large as
the heads of small black boys; and I have made the
discovery that, if a man will eat a luncheon when he
does not need any, there is nothing so good for him
as grape fruit. Slightly acid, it rather creates an
appetite than cloys one; and the stomach, after it,
experiences a sense of gratification as after a glass of
good Hock or Rudesheimer. Only beware of the
rind; for the bitter and the sweet lie as near to each
other in a grape fruit as they do in human life.
One goes to the tropics, of course, to live in the 
N-ASSAU-A WINTER NEWPORT.
open air, not to be comfortable in lodgings. So, at
Nassau, I found but indifferent quarters, with only
the promise of better ones in the future-a promise
since happily realized. Yet my attic was an ample
one; and of this I am quite sure, never was there so
happy an attic before. We habitually sat with open
doors and windows. And these looked to the four
quarters of the globe; showing us, on one side, all
the glories of the Government House, together with
the statue of Columbus, painted white, and representing the great discoverer of these islands in the
form and attitude of a dashing hidalgo. On another
side, the view began with one of the numerous poultry yards, which fill this quiet little town with more
crowing and cackling, gabbling and gobbling, than
is to be met with in any other place in Christendom,
I believe, not Spanish. It is a peculiarity of the
Nassauese cocks, that they crow not only at daybreak, but through all the hours of the night. From
sundown to the return of day it is a perpetual crowing, crowing, crowing. The instant any one of
these feathery watchmen winds his clarion, he is
answered by all his fellows throughout the town in
chorus. Tlie youngest chick will not be silent; nor
can Bantam suffer himself to be outdone by the
hoarsest and most guttural Cochin-China, or him of
Shanghai. For what earthly purpose are so many
329 
T'O DIXIE AAND THE TROPICS.
cocks kept here? grumblingly asks the stranger,
who, the first night after his arrival, tries in vain to
sleep in such a rookery; or who, dozing in the small
hours, facetiously dreams that the moral little town
is full of secret cockpits, wherein, on Sundays, the
good people clandestinely fight their birds between
the religious services.
On still another side, our windows look toward
the west, over orchards of bananas, oranges, and
lemons, over gardens of climbing roses, jessamines,
and oleanders, over pines and royal palms, toward
the bright green harbor and the sea.
But the eastern window pleased me most of all,
because from that I saw the sunrise. And know
that this is a climate which forces, at least, all the
lovers of nature out of bed before sunrise, simply
by means of the beauty of the mornings, which,
even in winter, open precisely like our Northern
June roses. At this early hour I go to the shore for
my bath; plunging into the pure, transparent water
just at the moment when the sunrise is scattering its
rose leaves over the surface. The deep sea water is
like molten glass-for the moment turned Bohemian.
Then, during the space of five blissful minutes, how
lustily do I pull the old god Neptune by the beard;
or more gently play with the tangles of some
Naiad's hair! And all these marine divinities could
'330 
NASSAU-A  WINTER _NEiVPORT.
testify that most gladly would I swim in the tepid
waves from one Bahama to another-but for the
sharks! These monsters give me pause. For, during my stay at Nassau, one of them swallowed his
Jonah-a black man-and was found, after capture,
to have digested the whole of him, excepting one
hand, and his rum bottle. Dreadful!
However, the bathing houses offer their protection to the timid, or the more cautious; and on coming out of them, even, one feels regenerate, and as
newborn as the day.
The winter midday, as well as the morning, is
very fine here. The prevailing wind, at that time of
day, is the trade, blowing pleasantly from the east;
and such a breeze as in our sunniest May days at the
North gently tosses the flowering tops of the apple
orchards;  or, in full-blown June, trips it lightly
through the rose gardens; which makes the fragrant
clover heads dance and nod to each other in the
fields; and covers the growing meadows with ripplihg, grassy waves. At the noontide there is often
not a cloud in the heavens, excepting the white canvas of ships' sails on the horizon, or in the harbor.
The tropical sunlight gilds with leaf of gold the
limestone streets, or paves them with the dark
shadows of trees and houses. In the brilliant rays
the facades of white marble buildings shine like bur
331 
TO DIXIE AN-D THE TROPICS.
nished silver. And yet, though strongly marked the
contrast between the lights and shadows of the
town, how soft are the gradations of color where the
verdant shore blends with the sea-green of the surrounding waves, and where the indigo-blue of the
distant ocean passes without any distinct line of separation into the blue of the empyrean.
At this idle hour of the day I liked, sitting at the
western window of my chamber, to look out upon a
palm tree standing near by, which I selected from all
other palms I had ever seen for my favorite.  It is of
the cocoanut variety, tall, and leaning gracefully
such an one as the wild Arab loves to call his bride.
The tree seems almost a living form, animate with
sense and feeling, and to stand there, its branches
waving, and its leaves quivering in an ecstasy of
delight. It appears to be enamored of the sun,
toward which it aspires.  It basks in the unclouded
rays, like the black man lying asleep at its foot; and,
like him, joyfully absorbs the midday heat. And as
the sea breeze comes and goes, now lifting the
branches gently aloft, and now letting them gracefully droop again, with what an expression of gladness the palmtop receives these soft caresses, toying
and gambolling with the wind! The branches seem
also at play with each -other; harmoniously swaying
to and fro, the topmost bending slightly, and the
332 
NASSAU-A WJINT.ER NEWPORT.
lower ones swinging themselves through wider
curves, and with a more deeply impassioned motion.
Surely, with such grace does a Venus move her limbs
when she comes newborn out of the foamy waves;
and so dance upon the stage the lithesome Spanish
girls of Grenada, and the gypsies of Seville.
But the cuisine! Upon what food does a man
live in such a clime, and on such an enchanted
island? Does he, like the first of men and women,
subsist on the fair fruits-on mere orange juices-on
the perfume of his finger glass, scented, one day,
with the green leaf of a lime, and, the next, with
one of a pimento? Not quite so. But, to tell the
truth, though the mutton will do for food, the beef
is not succulent. It is, in fact, a little tough, and
requires, in order to be masticated, to have been
previously well papawed. "For the juice of the
papaw," says Soyer, "makes meat tender, by causing
a separation of its muscular fibres." Some of the
more elderly chickens, also, will test the sharpness of
the carving knife, as well as the power of a man's
jaws, unless a pretty stiff dose of vinegar be poured
down their throats just before their heads are cut off.
Poor things! this must be the first; and the axe, the
second death to them!
Accordingly, the stranger will find himself under
the necessity of eating turtle twice a week here.
333 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
He can have turtle soup, turtle stewed; but the
great dish of the island, and chief glory of the
"conch" kitchen, is baked turtle.  A small monster
of about twenty-five pounds' weight is a good size;
unless, indeed, you happen to be an alderman, in
which case forty pounds would not be too much.
He is brought to table in his own shell, which stands
well up before you, and makes an ample platter. In
its depths lie imbedded all the choice pieces. The
fat and lean bits lie side by side; the eggs hug the
liver; while the whole mass is moist with a delicious
gravy, made of the juice of the animal, and hot with
infinitesimal red peppers, each particle of which is
endowed with a sting like that of the honey bee.
An open space in the middle of the crust- for this
great mystery of culinary art has a broad covering
of paste around its entire edge-an open space, I
say, in the crust, like heaven's gate standing ajar,
enables you to get a peep at the feast of good things
within, the moment it is set before you. Far off,
too, the nostril anticipates the coming of baked turtle; for the whole atmosphere of the place is at once
perfumed with the subtle essence and aroma of the
dish; the very winds of heaven struggling to bear
some of it off to their own caves.
Afttr- baked turtle, no Christian wishes to eat
pudding.  But if compelled to dine on a Nassauese
334 
NASSA UI-A WVINTER NEWVPORT.
beefsteak, one is certainly entitled to nothing less
than either cocoanut pudding or banana fritters; and
if he do not get the one or the other, he should consider himself robbed by his landlady.
In any event, you will drink a glass of uncommonly nice sherry with your turtle; for it is well
known that this animal cannot crawl nor stir a fin in
good sherry. I should have some hesitation, however, in recommending any one to adopt the local
fashion of letting rum punch follow the soup. But
no one should fall into the mistake of refusing,
whether after turtle or anything else, the proffered
glass of MIadeira, known as the "Water Lily"-a
wrecked wine, and named after the very unfortunate
vessel in which it was cast away on these shores.
The delicious sack had been sent to the West Indies
for its health; and some of the casks bore, as I have
been told, the names of venerable and right reverend English prelates, men supposed to know how
to select good liquor. Alas for them! The only
dash of bitter in the glass, whenever it was my
good fortune to taste this juice of the grape, was the
regret-impossible to repress it-that such good men
should providentially have been cut off from the
privilege of anointing their palates with so precious
an oil of joy. For the wine is excellent, and must
have received all the benefit from being sent to sea
335 
336      TO I)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
which its intelligent owners had anticipated for it.
Well may the Nassauese, in describing this beverage,
so fortunately rescued from the waves, speak of it
with brightening face and uplifted eyelids, as more
rainlike than rain water, more dry than the tropic
Cancer, and yet more luscious than the grapes of
Malaga or Muscat-the very aroma of aromas.
So you see this Bahama is what the Chinese
would call a "little heaven." But you must know
that three quarters of the saints are blacks. Seated
on my piazza, morning and evening, when they go
by on their way to and from the market, I have seen
the street darkened with the number of them, and
the tropical day almost put out as by an eclipse.
They go by, many of them with tattooed, gashed
faces, horizontal nostrils, and hair braided into rams'
horns and corkscrews; nearly all possessing healthy,
athletic forms, though not very heavily covered with
muscle; all with the same loose, shuffling gait, as if
their bodies were jelly, and going to pieces; with
speech often resembling a kind of articulate grunting, and even their best English sounding a little like
Congo. Up to the age of puberty the children are
remarkably thin-limbed; and many of the smaller
ones, having no other garment than a shirt, look like
a large species of grasshoppers, and very much as
did the children of Israel in the presence of the 
NASSA U-A WINTER NEWPORT.
giants, the sons of Anak, who came of the giants.
But, with the exception of one noted old beggar in
sackcloth, these blacks dress as decently as do the
lower class of whites in hot countries. Their garments are not often washed, nor always taken off at
night; and most of the women have the habit of
wearing their dresses very carelessly put on. Though
many of the females cover their heads with turbans,
and a hat besides, they are inclined to go barefbot, in
spite of the "jiggers;" and hence the old song,
"Jiggery foot, jump in the air A bottle of wine, and a bottle of beer," etc.
But, on Sunday, every negro who goes to church
comes  fresh out of his bandbox;  and he who,
through the week, had worn a palmetto hat, price
two cents and a half, will don a beaver, or a sky-blue
cotton; and he who had worn nothing but a kerchief, will carefully protect his head from the sun
under a family umbrella. Perhaps it is natural that
the head should receive special attention, when it
bears all the burdens; for there is nothing, from an
empty barrel to a bottle of champagne, which is not
so carried. I have seen a letter taken to the post on
the head, with a small stone laid above it to keep it
from blowing away; and, on the other hand, I have
beheld negroes coming into town surmounted with as
1)
337 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
heavy a load of green corn blades as may be seen
enveloping to their feet the Cuban donkeys which
bring fodder into Havana.   Everything goes naturally with them to the occiput; and there, too, not
on the back of her head, does the ebony belle, on
Sundays, stick the gay little bonnet of present
fashion.
The Bahama blacks are generally well behaved
and good natured. Their disposition is mild, passive,
tractable; and, though often crossed with the English, they appear not to have a single hair of the
bulldog on them. They rarely fight with each other,
except in words; are not fond of fisticuffs, nor given
to sedition; but, most of the time, have their mouths
full of chat, laughter, and sugar cane. When meeting in the street or highway, they often converse
together without stopping-both continuing on their
way, while they exchange their jest and laugh, and
neither turning their head. The commission of heinous crimes-the deed of blood and daring —does not
comport with a character so soft and timid; but for
petty theft, and all manner of lying, they have an
extraordinary aptitude. Too many of them, I am
sorry to say, are untrustworthy and unreliable. Capable, often, of strong personal attachments to the
whites, when they have been long in their service,
they are nevertheless, with exceptions, ungrateful,
838 
NASSA U-A WINTER NEWPORT'
and forgetful of benefits. They pay comparatively
little attention to the minor morals, and not too much
to the major.  Especially is the relation of the sexes
badly regulated among them.
Yet this much can be said in their favor, that
their faults of character and conduct do not spring
from malice or uncharitableness, but rather from
their heedless, thoughtless disposition, their natural
indolence, and their habits of present self-gratification. Fond of the good things of life, they take
scarcely more thought for the morrow than many of
the brutes. So, in their speech, they never make use
of the past or future tenses of verbs, but only of the
present. Alost Of them are capable, if not of wearing all they possess on their backs, at least, of letting
it all go down their throats at a single feast, and
never think it any sin to run in debt to whoever may
be imprudent enough to trust them.
Of all things, they do not like steady, hard wc-k;
and are not to be depended upon, therefore, for the
carrying out of any large plan of active industry, or
for securing a certain return of interest on any great
investment of capital.   They prefer odd jobs,  as
labor about the streets and wharves, or situations of
easy service, or to catch fish, or to go on short trips
in the wrecking vessels. Generally, when they get a
few shillings together in their pockets, they lose all
339 
340       TO DI)IXIE AND  7I-E T]ROPICS.
appetite for further toil until they have spent them.
All their salvage money goes to the shopkeepers to
pay old debts. Of the savings bank they make little
use, but rely rather on their fishing banks, which furnish the greater part of their sustenance.
In general, it may be said of the Bahamian
blacks, that they are as much inferior to their brethren in the "States," both morally and intellectually,
as the climate of the tropics is hotter, and the fruitfulness of nature therein is more spontaneous than in
our own. Although they have now been free for a
quarter of a century, and, during this period, have
enjoyed the superior advantages of English tuition
and example, yet their improvement, whether intellectual, moral, or physical, has not been very great.
I should say that, if the amount of white blood
which has passed into their veins could be estimated,
it would be found to be a tolerably exact measure of
their progress. This, to be sure, is something; for
the English have done considerable toward whitening
the skin of the black population, and have straightened a good many heads of hair-with the help of
pomatum.
The native Africans who, a few years since, were
transferred to the island from slave ships captured at
sea, are more industrious, and, perhaps, superior in
morals, if inferior intellectually, to the Creole blacks 
NASSA UI-A WINTER NEWPORnT.
formerly held in bondage. It is true that the children of the latter have acquired, in free schools, the
rudiments of an English education, and that a few
of them display, upon examination, as much cleverness as the young whites. Still it must be observed,
that it is the faculty of memory, chiefly, which is developed by this early training, and that, the age
of puberty once passed, the Africo-Bahaman mind
appears to make but comparatively little further
progress.
Of the purely abstract ideas, these tropical Africans, alhnost without exception, seem.to have but an
imperfect and dim apprehension. Even so simple an
one as that of time they do not appear to conceive
of with any considerable degree of clearness. When
asked in what month of the year the different fruits
of the island are in season, they can rarely give a
precise answer; and I was informed by the son of
an aged black woman, when I inquired the number
of her years, that it was one hundred and sixty. A
straight line, also, bothers them. I was told of a
black gardener here, who could not be taught accurately to lay out his paths and spaces at right angles.
"This corner of the house is nearly a foot too
high," once said a Nassauese gentleman to the mason
who was erecting its walls.
"Oh! yas," was the reply; "dat massa say bery
true; but folks isn't goin' to notice it."
341 
342     TO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
"And the doors and windows," continued the
proprietor, "are not quite opposite to each other."
" Well, yas-if massa will be so bery partic'ler."
In this difficulty of mastering a straight line, by
the way, the inferiority of the negro to the lowest
class of Irishmen is noticeable. For if you ask Patrick, in the tropics or out of them, what he considers to be the prettiest thing in the world, he will invariably make answer:
"An' shure, yer honor,'tis a straight ditch!"
But the Bahama blacks are a healthy, prolific race.
Out of four persons you meet in the streets of Nassau, three, at least, are blacks, or mulattoes.   In
church, one sits quite surrounded by his colored
brethren and sisters; the whole congregation presenting a pepper-and-salt aspect.  So, in places of
both public and private entertainment, the imipertinent question will often spring up in the mind of the
stranger-like the roguish head of a truant child
thrust through a half-open door-" Has not this estimable gentleman with whom I am so pleasantly conversing, or this most amiable lady, the line down the
back slightly discolored?"
In the polite circles of society in the Bahamas
there is a prejudice against the black or mixed color
still prevailing, which surprises one, considering the
liberal views entertained by English philanthropists 
NAS.A U-A WINTER NEWVPORT.
in the mother country on this subject. But, in justice to the class of mulattoes, I feel bound to add,
that I met, at Nassau, persons belonging to it whose
intelligence, good character, and polite manners made
them the peers of white men, whether there or in
any other country.
It would be idle to speculate about the future
destiny of the African race in the American tropics;
or to conjecture whether, on the one hand, it is
likely, after emancipation, to relapse into barbarism;
or whether, on the other, after it shall have existed
as long in these countries as did the Saxons in the
woods of Germany, it may finally develop a new and
original form of civilization. But one may, at least,
divine enough of the immediate future of the Bahamas, to come to the conclusion that, in the natural
increase of their black and colored population, it
must soon crowd hard upon the whites, and gradu ally drive them out. They will either voluntarily
take leave, or be sent away against their will, as for merly were the French from Ilayti. Already the
African element is so strong in some of the Bahamas
as, for example, in St. Salvador, Bahama, Andros,
and Long Island-that, in spite of great natural ad vantages of soil and climate, white men begin to be
reluctant to cast their lot there. And why, indeed,
must not the same become true, at no very distant
343 
?TO 1)IXIE ANI1 THE  TROPICS.
epoch, of all the West Indian islands? For, while
the free African  thrives  in these tropics like a
green bay tree, and willows by the watercourses, the
Anglo-Saxon, and even the Spaniard, is a sicklly
exotic. 
Time, unquestionably, will show it to be a law of
nature, that in lands where the white man cannot
sow, neither shall he reap; where he cannot himself
labor, he shall not permanently dwell.  So long, of
course, as, by superior force and intelligence, he can
retain the black men in bondage, or state of dependence, and make them perform the labor of sowing
and reaping in his stead, so long he may hold the
islands of the tropics; but not much longer.
I have before observed, that the Bahama blacks
derive a portion of their support from the business
of wrecking.   The number of persons of all colors
so-engaged is between three and four thousand, and
that of their vessels from two to three himdred.
They are required by law to save life before property; and this they always do, as I am informed.
The cargo to be rescued being often more or less
under water, it is necessary that the sailors be also
good divers, able to descend to the depth of even
thirty or forty feet, and make bales of goods fast to
tackle.  The salvage of a single  ship  sometimes
amounts to fifty thousand dollars, or upward, which
344 
NASSA U-A WTINTER N-EWPORT.
is distributed one half to the captain and owners of
the vessel, and the other to the officers and crew.
Sometimes a considerable portion of a shipwrecked
cargo is saved dry; but a great many boxes and
packages get damaged, not only through fault of the
waves, but also from being rudely opened, for the
purpose of enabling the wrecker to judge whether
they will yield a high rate of salvage. For the captains who arrive first at a wreck naturally desire to
load, each his own vessel, with the most valuable
part of the cargo.
In such a small, isolated town as Nassau, a little
excitement goes, of course, a great way. So, when
the fleet of returning wrecking vessels is seen coinming into port with white flags flying, the little place
is set all agog. Half the population stand, for the
moment, on the tiptoe of expectation; the shopkeepers' heads stiffening like bristles, and the negroes'
wool half uncurling from excitement. 
" O Lord, massa!" said to me one of the latter,
quite dancing with delight, and threatening to spit
out all his ivory, as he pointed to the white schooners ploughing into the bright green harbor, " O Lord,
massa!  dere cum de rackers-full of drygood, silk
stocking-eberyting!"
A wreck is a misfortune, of course, and great disappointment to somebody; but it makes a very pleas        15*
345 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
ant holiday for the good people of Nassau. During
my visit, there was a sale of an assorted cargo of
drygoods, too much damaged to be forwarded to its
port of destination.  And never was such confusion
seen before in mortal affairs, as in these rescued bales
and boxes. All around the spacious yards of the
consignee there were piles, a dozen feet high, of cottons, calicoes, muslins, linens, and flannels, all as full
of salt water as ever was a sailor of grog and tobacco juice. Wet figs lay in juxtaposition with wet
fire-crackers. Reams of tinted paper were deposited
side by side with boxes of fine lace, tubs of mnackerel, and barrels of yeast; the latter facetiously
marked, in conspicuous letters, "Keep this dry."  It
was a scene of complete pellmell, with buyers going
here and there in a high state of agitation, and negroes, who never could be made to lay out their
strength before, now all in a lather.
The goods once distributed among the merchants,
their shop doors and windows were festooned with
cotton and woollen fabrics, which, hanging down to
the sidewalk, were trodden under foot by the crowd
of black and white purchasers. Even the sides of
several of the streets and lanes were covered with
wet goods, spread out to dry in the sun; fences and
trees were hung with them; and the very roofs of
the houses fluttered with muslins.
346 
NASSA U-A -T I.NZER NEWPORT.
Truly, to enjoy a wreck, one must come to Nas
sau.
The white-stone days, it may be added, on which
the fleet of wreckers sails into the harbor, have but
one holiday in all the Nassauese year to rival them;
and that is the one wherein occurs the august ceremony of the opening of the Bahama Parliament.
Flags are then hoisted, guns fired, and the regiment
of blacks mustered; while the band plays the national anthem, and other airs patriotic. Meanwhile,
the Governor, having come down to the House in
sword and epaulettes, the sergeant-at-arms holds
aloft his mace, and brings up the honorable members
of the House of Assembly into the presence of His
Excellency. Thereupon the latter proceeds, sitting
in his chair of state, and with his plumed hat on, to
read to them, together with the gentlemen of the
Privy Council, his gubernatorial speech. The honorables of the House stand during the ceremony, all in
respectful tail coats; while the honorables of the
Council sit during the same, clad in coats of blue
broadcloth, set off with gilded buttons and linings of
white silk, and matched with buff waistcoats. The
reverend clergy occupy a corner of the scene, arrayed
in black silk gowns; some having their hoods lined
with scarlet, and some bordered with white down.
But most conspicuous stands among them the chief
347 
TO  DLIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
prelate, sporting his doctor's cap and gown of flaming red, edged with black velvet; and having his
under person set out in silk stockings and short
clothes. Over against the men of God are seen
grouped together the men of war-red coats all,
spurred, also, and sworded, and some of them having
their breasts decked with ribbons and crosses. Nor
does the fair sex fail of being present; the roses in
their hats, if not their cheeks, vying with the crimson of the priests and soldiers, and the unusual red
in the face of some of the principal actors in the
ceremony.   Without the railing, however, hangs a
cloud of dusky spectators, negroes and mezzotints;
while one or two curly heads may, perchance, be
noticed on the shoulders of the honorable members
of the House of Assembly.
On the whole, this must be pronounced a very
brilliant and high-colored scene, in miniature; and as
thoroughly English as anything to be witnessed in
Westminster Hall, or the Houses of Parliament.
348 
CffAP TER XXZI V.
Santa Cruz and its Freedmen.
N  my search about the world for fine days, I
thought that I had found the finest at Nassau;
but I was compelled to change my mind after reaching Santa Cruz. The climate of this latter island is
both dryer and more constant than that of the Bahamas. One may even spend the entire winter here
without once encountering what, at the North, is
called bad weather.  There may be no storms;  no
entirely clouded skies; no rains, excepting showers;
no winds, excepting the northeast trades. The island
being destitute of high mountains or forests, the
clouds are not detained on their courses by this speck
of land; and one half the rain to which it is fairly
entitled is drawn over to the well-wooded mountain
sides of its neighbor, Porto Rico, lying to leeward.
Moreover, the rain descending in occasional showers,
is immediately absorbed by the thirsty ground; 
350      TO DIXIE AND TEE TROPICS.
while the dews of night are gone almost before the
morning. The range of the thermometer, during the
winter months, is between seventy and eighty degrees of Fahrenheit. The stranger, judging of the
state of the atmosphere by his sensations, notices, at
this season, very little change from day to day; but
the Creole constitution, on the other hand, is sensitive to the slightest variations.   The north wind,
which the New Englander finds pleasantly bracing,
brings colds, followed by mild attacks of chills and
fever, to the natives. The negro now sleeps by night
in a cabin as hermetically sealed as cracks and crannies will permit. The air within is never too thick
for him; and he fears a draught of night wind as
much as if he were a Frenchman. The whites, however, always sleep with either doors or windows
open. And, with very few exceptions, they wear
woollen clothes in winter, together with flannel next
the skin. For, say they, we cannot move in this climate without getting into a state of perspiration;
and we cannot stand still without being in a current
of air. Hence, linen is worn outside, if worn at all,
and wool beneath it. But the stranger in full health
may dress differently; and, for my part, I found
myself never so comfortable as when clad in a complete suit of light flannel, without under-dress of any
kind- excepting a cotton shirt. 3Iy linen trunk
I)roved to be a ponderous superfluity. 
SANTA CRUZ AATD ITS FREEDMEiV.  351
Quarantined by forty miles of ocean, this solitary
island is rarely visited by epidemics. The cholera
did not come here when formerly ravaging the West
Indies; and though, in unhealthy seasons, there may
be a few isolated cases of yellow fever, this disease
does not prevail as in Cuba  and Jamaica.   The
robust appearance of the native population is sufficient proof of the salubrity of the climate; andwhat is remarkable-in the hotter part of the year the
public health stands the highest.  The men, especially, are neither sallow in complexion nor spare of
flesh; but have, on the contrary, the glow of health
in their faces, and are well covered with hard muscle.
The climate agrees with both men and wine-makes
good blood and good Madeira.
Yet the unacclimated invalid should not stand too
much in the sun. Let him at all hours, excepting the
early morning and evening, keep an umbrella over
his head, or a carriage top, or the roof of a house.
His physician, probably, will have sent him to Santa
Cruz to live out of doors; but, with doors and windows always open, it is out-of-door life here in the
house. Let the sick man rather beware of too much
exercise in the open air-at least, for the first month
or two; let him keep himself much more quiet than
he would at the North;  for, if he do not overfatigue himself, nor commit imprudences, the mere 
352     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
breathing of the salubrious air will cure him-provided he be not past cure. In former winters there
were hundreds of valetudinarians from the North in
Santa Cruz, where there are now dozens. They have
been enticed away to places in the South less favorable to their recovery, by the facilities of railroads
and steamships. They have not patience enough for
the slow sailing vessels. Made restless by disease,
they prefer going to ports which they can with more
ease get away from, as well as where they can receive more regularly advices from the home which
they are all so apt to yearn for.
Well-it is a long voyage from New  York to
Santa Cruz. Eight days may, indeed, suffice for it;
but, more likely, the good ship will take sixteen. Nor
are there any regular packets. Generally, one can
come only by sailing vessel to Saint Thomas, or by
steamer to Saint Thomas, via Havana or Bermuda.
Then remains the trip of forty miles across to this
island in a small schooner, having state rooms on
deck, fitly yclept doghouses. But do not be discouraged. If the invalid have only strength enough
to get to the end of the journey, and also good accommodations secured in advance, his chance of
recovery will be greater here than in most of the
other islands.
Yet the stranger who comes to pass the winter in 
SAXTA CRUZ AND ITS F.REEDMEN.  353
Santa Cruz will do well to bring all his resources for
killing time along with him. For the days are long
and sunny; and there are no libraries, or bookshops,
or magazines, or daily newspapers. The glorious sun
is intent on ripening the sugar canes, and not on
looking about Santa Cruz for poets or philosophers.
The monotony of the livelong day may occasionally
be broken by a morning call, or maoinee, or birthday
party. Once a month there may be pigeon shooting;
and, once in the season, horse racing. Persons properly introduced into society will now and then be
asked to dinners, balls, and parties. But riding and
driving will be found to be far more ingenious inventions for whiling the time away; the roads being the
best in America-smooth, hard, and free from  dust.
After getting acclimated, horses from  the North
thrive well here; while the native animals are both
fleet and hardy, and will carry you, under the saddle,
at a good round pace as carefully as if you were
eggs. Their gait is the perfection of equine grace
and rhythm.
For my part, while I preferred the evening hour
for climbing, on horseback, the hills to " Punch" and
"Mt. Victory," through the romantic ravine of Craicrai, shaded by Thibet and mahogany trees, skirted
by ipecacuanha, hybiscus, cactus, and fragrant logwood hledges, and draped by every variety of tropi 
354     TO DIXIE A ND THE TROPICS.
cal trailing plants, flower-bearing parasites, and mosses and creepers, half pendent from the overhanging
precipices-the path winding gradually up out of the
solemn gloom of the deep dell into the brilliant blue
of the hilltop sky-I preferred, decidedly, the midday for carriage exercise. In the very brightness of
the noontide we used to sally forth, two ponies in
hand; and the eager animals apparently as much in
love with the sun as ourselves; for away they flew
over the smooth road, drinking in the eastern trade
wind with distended nostrils, their long tails floating
behind, their beating hoofs resounding like the waves
of the beach by the side of which they trotted, and
not more heated by the sun than cooled by the sea
breeze. Protected by the carriage top from the
direct rays of the great luminary in the zenith, and
fanned by the soft airs which were invited in by the
curtains rolled up on all sides, we found this rapid
rolling over the road, at noon, a more delectable
combination of the hot and the cold than the sitting
ill any summer cave or forest shade-more delicious
than ices under the reign of the dog star, or champagne out of the cooler. And, indeed, the intoxicatlion of the nmotion was as great as from mild wine.
We were intoxicated with delight. The ponies, outflying the flies, were not stung by them; what little
dust might have been raised on the hard road was 
SANTA CRUZ AND ITS FREEDMENLV.  355
left behind. The ladies had no fans, nor any shawls
but scarfs, and ribbons fluttering. We looked out,
on one side, upon the indigo sea, sometimes almost
feeling the spray from its long-drawn waves break ing on the shore; and, on the other, upon lines of
palms and groves of sugar cane. The little black
children leaped out of the road, and threw up their
caps, and opened on us their batteries of laughing
ivory as we passed. The market women turned
aside their "emancipation carts" far ahead, on hearing the coming rattling; and the meu from the
sugar fields-their ponies' sides projecting wide with
their load of canes-carefully drew them almost into
the gutter, in order to let the hurrying wheels go by.
Did we not also hang out orange boughs from the
calriage sides?  And did we not bring home under
the seats the big yellow shaddocks and grape fruit,
more delicate to the taste than oranges? And had
we not baskets stuffed  with sapodillas and sugar
apples?  And did we not come back, too, with nuts
in our cheeks, like monkeys, and no small part of the
juices and the aroma of the tropics on lips and
tongue?  Of course we did.
And the ponies, likewise, fared well after such
stretching of their legs. For their aged friend tied
them under the cool India-rubber and frangipanni
trees, without any fear of rheumatism before his 
356     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
eyes; and gave them big, succulent heaps of green
corn blades, or the still sweeter leaves of the sugar
cane. Doubtless they liked, too, the scent of the
frangipanni.
Occasionally, the object of our noonday drives
was to attend parties given by daylight. For here
the custom is to give entertainments not only by
night, but more frequently during the slid hours of
sunshine-especially when ladies are to be present.
The distances between the estates are, of course,
considerable; so that the guests have to make a
journey often of half a dozen miles or more. And
though gentlemen, with or without a blanket over
their shoulders, and perhaps the friendly company of
a cigar, do not object, after having dined together at
six o'clock, to a rapid drive across the island at midnight, ladies, who in this as in so many other things
are more sensible, prefer the lively morning hours
for such excursions. They are always ready for a
dance by the light of the sun, and in spite of him.
They are never too warm in dancing. The trade
wind is their fan. They stand tiptoe as easily as a
New Englander walks on his heels. And it would
seem as though the hotter the climate, the more satisfactory was the pastime-just as the tropical gentlemen say that the hotter the day, the more rum
goes into the punch. 
SANTA CPRUZ AND ITS F-REEDMEIV.  357
Certain it is, the exercise puts the palates of all
into a proper mood for receiving the cold turkey, or
the hot guinea fowl of the luncheon. And perhaps
few persons suspect what a jewel of a bird the tropical guinea fowl is, when, deprived of its voice, it
appears on the table-for, if it still retained its preternatural screech, I think no one could eat it. The
heat of an island so near the sun is always a good
excuse for thirst. Accordingly, if you think the climate does not agree with the thin wines, you need
not have any fear of swallowing a single glass of old
sherry, or Madeira, after the guinea fowl. You might
not drink it at the North for a variety of reasons;
but here it is absolutely cooling to the blood; it
gives great powers of resistance against the Southern heat; and your footing in the dance will be all
the lighter for it. Neither disdain the sweetmeats.
They will agree with your constitution as well as, at
the North, do sourkrout and pickles. Sugar would
seem here to acquire, by some gastric mystery of
fermentation, the strengthening properties of alcohol; so that the more you eat of it, the more you
partake of the nature of a lion with honey in his
belly.
But, fasting ()or feasting, you must dance. For
see how frantically Sambo's head is nodding with all
its wool on it; and with what comic grimaces-his 
TO DIXIE AND THE TRPOPJCS.
mouth a gash firom ear to ear-he draws the fiddle
bow!   Old and young join in the graceful mazes.
Meanwhile, buds of roses bloom  on the maidens'
breasts; and the delicate blossoms and fair leaves of
noyau wreaths encircle their brows. Is it the scent
of white jessamines, whiter for the contrast with the
raven hair, which so pleasantly perfumes the summer
breeze? Or do these sweets float in through the
windows, thus gracefully latticed by passion-flower
vines, from the lilies and the daturas, the oleanders
and the fragrant cedars of the garden?   Dance
while the day lasts; for in the sunny courtyard a
score of little darkeys are industriously improving
the music, which sounds none the less sweet to their
sun-burnt ears for passing through the open doors
and windows; and are pirouetting, and knocking
their naked heels, and crooking their elbows, until
the perspiration runs down their faces like cane juice
from the cylinders-literally enjoying their fun in
the sweat of their brows, and laboring as if they
thought every waltz and cotillon were a regular
"breakdown." The merry fellows would be sorry
to stop as long as they can have the sun to shine on
them. So dance on.
"Juchhe! Juchhe!
Juchlheisa! lIeisa! He!
So ging der Fiedelbogen."
358 
SANTA CRUZ AND ITS F.RE.EDME.   359
In the days of slavery, this island of the Holy
Cross was called the Garden of the West Indies;
and, though now partaking somewhat of the nature
of a paradise lost, it remains still one of the most
beautiful spots in the tropics. Riding, one afternoon, with a pleasant party of friends, to the top of
the Bodkin-a height of a thousand feet or more-I
thought the prospect one of the most lovely I had
ever seen in any country. The hills, valleys, and
plains upon which I looked down were nearly all
green with sugar canes. On one side, the hills,
round topped, and most gracefully curved, rolled
away like the waves of a sea of emerald; on the
other, stretched off toward a range of hills to the
eastward, a broad plain of the greatest fertility, completely cane-covered, and dotted over with a large
number of bright-colored plantations. These, having
each one tall white chimney, resembled, in the distance, the small villages of the South of Europe,
overtopped by spires. The windmills, too, on the
lower summits, had a picturesque effect; while many
dismantled ones might remind the traveller of the
ruined towers which overhang the Rhine and the
Danube.  The prospect all around us was beautiful;
but our hearts were almost too gay; for one of the
company, having cut a bough from an orange tree
full of fruit, and borne it in triumph to the summit, 
TO DIXIE ANDI) THE  TROPICS.
I remember that our lips were running over with
most delicious orange juice, at the same time our
eyes were running over with delight in the beauty of
the landscape.
The house in which I was so fortunate as to stay
during my visit to the island, stood midway on a
hillside covered with green canes, and sloping gracefully to the sea shore. It was therefore convenient
both for the morning bath and the afternoon ride on
the heights. Convenient, also, was it for seeing the
sun go down in the sea; for the horizon of waters
compassed, at this point, almost an entire semicircle.
We found excellent companionship in the mild, tropical ocean, the waves of which were constantly making, both by day and night, a pleasing murmur,
rarely changed to a roar. The ground swell brought
up shells and corals. In the quiet bays the grave
pelicans dived, rapid as the thunderbolt, all day
long for sprats; and, returning at evening to their
accustomed resting place, sailed sometimes directly
over our heads, silently as the falling dew, and holding both wing and breath for a long distance. The
shadows of passing rain clouds coming over the hills
out of the northeast, often blackened the blue of the
ocean in certain portions of it, while others were
glittering in sunlight; and the April-like showers
which fell from time to time were generally accom
360 
SANTA CRUZ AAN) ITS FREEDMEN.  361
panied by brilliant rainbows, sometimes double, or
triple, or even quadruple-rainbows in clusters, like
the clustered pillars in Gothic cathedrals.   Often
rising out of the depth of a valley, climbing the hill sides, and sweeping through the sky down into the
ocean, they brought to mind the shining angel in the
Apocalypse, who stood with one foot on the sea and
the other on the land. On calm days, the shores, ill
places where there were coral reefs below the water,
would be as green as the deepest emerald; at other
times, the long line of rocks and beaches would be
completely frosted with foam. Not only the colors
of the sunset were reflected on the broad expanse of
waters, but throughout the day a flitting purple light
was often spread by passing clouds over the waves.
In the early evening, the moon, when but one day
old, drew a thread of silver from the horizon to the
land; while the full moon poured a perfect flood of
illumination over hills, valleys, and the sea.  The
limestone road which wound around the foot of the
hill below us, running on the edge of the shore, shone
then as if covered with hoarfrost; and the numerous
forms of the palm trees bordering it were doubled
by their shadows. So transparent, indeed, is the
atmosphere in these latitudes, that, in calm weather,
not only the islands of Saint Thomas and Saint
Johns, lying forty miles to the northward, may be
16 
TO D1XIE A.ND THE TROPICS.
seen distinctly by the naked eye, but Porto Rico
comes into view, and reveals its mountains, at a distance of a hundred miles, floating among the clouds.
Various other small islands also loomi up, at such
times, out of the misty distance; so that the beams
of the chambers of the firmament seem to be resting
upon them.
Directly behind the house was the garden. A
door opening from one of our rooms into this, it was
pleasant to sit looking, on one side, toward the sea,
and, on the other, upon flowers and green leaves. It
was pleasant to step out, as the morning was coming
up behind the eastern hills, among the roses and
the lilies, and many sweet-scented shrubs, and tall
trees bearing flowers. At this hour I always realized
best that I was in the tropics. As if in the natural
state and condition of man, I stepped from my room
into this little tropical Eden, wherein was no sin, but
only the gushing light of the Southern morning;
only the freshness of the sunrise air, in temperature
just fitted to sense and feeling; only the green,
glossy foliage, and buds and blossoms of every hue
and fragrance. Here, from the tops of tall trees, the
glowing scarlet cordia blossoms saluted, high in air,
the rising sun;, while those of the burning love
shrub, and of the soldier's plume, equally full of
fire, but growing lower, welcomed him to the ground.
362 
SANTA CRUZ AND ITS FREEDMEN.  363
Great clusters of oleanders, also, reddened the morn ing air; and groves of full-blown yellow cedar trees,
mingled with high Spanish jessamines, gave back to
the sky more than its own effulgence of molten gold.
How gorgeous these tropical flowers!  How strange
to the sight these broadly spreading giant trees, and
these puffed and swollen Guinea tamarinds, their
trunks resembling in color the hide of the elephant!
But the palm trees are the most beautiful of all,
though now, unfortunately, more or less scathed by
disease; and they may be seen, throughout the
island, skirting the roadsides, and tufting, here and
there, the hilltops.
In such groves and gardens strolling, during the
first cool of the day, I was sometimes tempted to
wish that there existed in our American tropics some
great city worthy of their beauty and splendor-one
that might indeed be called a Garden City, its houses
being embowered in flowers, and having gardens
hanging, if need were, like those of Bagdad, in the
air. Of such a great capital, the architecture might
be as light and graceful-as fantastic, too-as was
that of the Moors in Spain. How splendid would be
the pomp of arms and military parade beneath the
Sm' of these tropics! How beautiful, likewise, the
music of colloseums open to the air, fanned by the
soft trade wind, and lighted by  the full moon! 
364      TO DI)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
Here the costumes of the promenade and the dance
might well glow in rivalry with the bright colors of
the Southern vegetation. The domes and minarets
might better be gilded than those of Moscow, situated beneath a sky of lead; while the inner walls of
house and palace should be hung with colors caught
from West Indian skies and seas, as were those of
Titian from the waves and the marbles of Venice.
No doubt, however, the delights of such a tropical
seat of art and empire would be too luscious for our
dyspeptic humanity; and, for some centuries to
come, the highest civilization will be that which is
fed on the gravel stones of the North.
So far, indeed, the West Indies have done little
more for man than to develop the faculties and passions most nearly allied to sense. These islands have
been cultivated for their sweets and their aromas.
For a time, cotton was grown here, as well as coffee
and cocoa; but the sugar cane has completely supplanted them; so that all tee hills and valleys now
drop with the fatness of sling and molasses. In
Santa Cruz, however, nearly the whole of the latter article is sublimed into rum-potent, aromatic
"Santa Cruz;" and, by feeding upon a little of this,
and a good deal of cane juice, do the negroes, in
crop time, fatten themselves. Even the cattle and
horses grow sleek on the green cane leaves. The 
SANTA CR UZ AN]D ITS FREEM...EyNV. 365
fields are full of rats and mice gnawing the stalks for
dear life; and the very dogs and cats would become
well favored from the drippings of the sugar kettles,
did not the climate impose upon them the law of
perpetual leanness.
With these two exceptions, all animals, human or
brute, thrive on sugar-but most of all the negro.
During the grinding season he is as full of juice as
a cane in the field; while in the other seasons of the
year he gradually becomes almost as thin as a cane
which has passed between the cylinders. In the former period, his skin shines like the face of one
anointed with oil. He is full of blood and marrow;
and, when angry, will butt his adversary with his
head like a ram. The senses bud, blossom, and bear
luscious fruit; wellnigh overlying, even in the white
Creole, the more spiritual faculties and sentiments.
The latter eats less sugar, and even drinks less rum;
but he has turtle, and oysters which grow on trees,
and pork fattened on cane, and turkeys made tipsy
with rum before killing, and mutton which is tender
enough without being papawed. The Santa Cruzians
are to this day drinking old Madeira ripened by their
climate, while the rest of the world has scarcely a
drop left of it.  Unlike the Spaniards, their neighbors, they give dinners as well as balls. They dine,
and dance, and have their rubber at whist. They 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
also go to church on Sunday; but a man may live
long on the island without listening to a public
speech, or a lecture. One would be at a loss to
know where to go to buy a book. Among the better class of whites, the children are sent to Europe,
or the States, to be educated; but, where the sun is
so hot as it is in the West Indies, a young man soon
forgets his Latin. Twice a month the mails bring
the English and American newspapers. A gentleman now and then receives odd copies of the reviews and magazines.   Danish papers, also, come
from Copenhagen a month or two old, and sometimes mouldy from sea fog and salt water. On suchl
food does the public mind starve!
Happily, the Santa Cruzians are compelled to be
reasonably industrious-the blacks by law, and the
whites by necessity. Previously to the year 1848,
the laborers were all slaves; and so heavily were
they tasked, that the profits of sugar growing were
very great. The planters lived in ease and luxury,
and the island was filled with inhabitants considerably beyond its present numbers.  But in that year
the blacks, by a concert of action, and secretly instigated and favored, as is generally believed, by the
Government in Denmark, suddenly ceased work, assembled in the two chief towns of the island, and
declared themselves freemen. And after two or
366 
SANTA CRUZ AND ITS FREEDMEN.  367
three days of interregnum, during which considerable property was destroyed, but no lives taken, the
claims of the insurrectionists were allowed, on the
one hand; while, on the other, they agreed to return
to their estates, and resume their customary labors,
on payment of wages by their former masters.
From twenty-five to thirty thousand slaves forcibly
recovered their rights from one quarter of that number of whites, without hurting a hair of their heads.
At first, the home Government made fair promises
of granting some small amount of compensation to
the planters for their loss of service; but being, at
the same time, of opinion that the island would, in
the end, be rather a gainer than a loser by the
change, it at first postponed, and finally withheld all
remuneration. And if the very great wealth and
prosperity of the planters has been materially diminished since the emancipation of the slaves, this unfavorable change is no doubt to be attributed much
more to the lavish expenditure, and the practice of
plunging recklessly into debt, on the part of the
landowners, than to the diminished results of labor
under the system of freedom. The planters, of late
years, complain of the insufficiency  of labor on the
island, and have made some efforts to import free
blacks firom the more populous and more prosperous
island of Barbadoes. But they at the same time admit 
368      TO DIXIE A iVD TIIE TROPICS.
that the freedmen are fairly industrious; and acknowledge themselves, on the whole, satisfied with the
new order of things. If the summits of the range
of hills which follow the whole length of the northern shore are not as green with cultivation as formerly, but many of them overgrown with the brush
which now furnishes a home for the spotted deer,
imported from Ceylon, still all the lowland-a stretch
of some twenty miles in length by nearly half a
dozen, on an average, in breadth-is crowded with
waving canes; while the fair tropical sky above is
blackened, in crop time, by the smoke of sixty or
more steam engines. During the existence of slavery, the number of estates reached two hundred
and twenty-six, each containing from two hundred
and fifty down to six acres; but many of them,
being heavily burdened with debt, have passed out
of the hands of the old planters and their families;
their number has been reduced to about ninety; and
new men, in many instances, of moderate means,
have come into possession of them.
If the Danish Government did not pay the planters for the loss of their slaves, it did what was much
more for their interest-it established a code of laws
which secured to them the willing service of the
entire black population. Taking pattern from French
rather than English legislation, i' the West Indies, it 
SANTA CRUZ ANVD ITS FiEED1MEV.   3 6 9
placed the newly recognized freemen in a state of
tutelage, preparatory to the future condition of
absolute political liberty.   They were not to be
allowed to set up their castles of indolence under
every cocoa tree and banana shrub, supporting themselves with little labor on the lavish bounty of
nature in the tropics, and forming such habits of
idleness and vice as the great heat of the climate
would naturally engender; but they were required
by law to perform a reasonable amount of daily toil
-so much as would keep up their habits of industry
already formed, and as would tend to secure their
moral and physical well-being, as well as the general
welfare of the white population. The new Labor
Act was, in fact, a system of laws which at the same
time guaranteed to the emancipated blacks all their
rights, and minutely prescribed all their duties.  In
all important particulars, it described and established
the relations to be sustained to each other by the two
classes of laborers and employers.
The laborers were divided into three classes, according to age and capacity.  They were required to
work five days in the week, from sunrise to sunsetthat is to say, from six in the morning until six in
the evening- resting one hour for breakfast, and
from twelve to two o'clock for dinner. The wages
were at the rate of fifteen cents for those of the first
16* 
370'TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
class; ten cents for those of the second class; and
five cents for those of the third class, per day. They
were also allowed to claim twenty-five cents out of
the amount of a week's wages, to be paid in corn
meal and herrings at a fixed price, which, since the
passage of the law, has proved to be considerably
below that of the market. The laborers of the first
and second classes were likewise granted the use of a
house, or dwelling room, and the use of a piece of
ground for raising vegetables, thirty feet square, or
fifty feet, if on a hillside. They were to have, also,
the privilege of keeping poultry, pigs, and ponies.
When sick, they were to be entitled to medical attendance; if disabled, they were to be maintained on
the estate; their young children were to be fed and
attended to at the expense of the landowner; while
women were not to be required to work during a
certain period after childbearing.
For extra work on Saturdays, or other days,
extra pay was given-the maximum being for the
first class; as, for example, boilermen, in crop time,
twenty cents per day. Any laborer, on the contrary,
wilfully abstaining firom work for a day, would lose
the day's wages, besides incurring a fine of seven
cents, if belonging to the first class; of five cents, if
to the second; and of two'cents, if to the third.
Laborers not working faithfully, or committing any 
S-4NTA CRUZ AND ITS FREEDMEN.   3 71
other offence against the laws, were to be punished
by fine or imlprisomnient, on complaint made to the
magistrate by the employer or overseer.   On the
other hand, owners and mnanagers of estates convicted of violating any of the provisions of the
Labor Act, or convicted of practices tending wilfully to counteract or avoid, either directly or indirectly, any of its provisions, were subject to a fine
not exceeding two hundred dollars.
Gangs of laborers in the field are generally attended by a foreman, whose duty it is to see that all
work is duly performed, as well as to maintain order
at all times and places.  He receives four dollars and
a half per month. And any laborer resisting or insulting him is liable to punishment according to law.
The engagements of laborers with their employers are annually renewed on the first day of October.
All blacks have then the privilege of changing their
employers, and places of residence, at their own
pleasure; and, at any other time during the year,
the relation between laborer and employer may be
dissolved by mutual consent, or by order of a magistrate, for cause-the laborer making, at the same
time, an engagement on some other estate.  In point
of fact, however, the blacks are generally attached
to their homes, and do not often pass from one plantation to another. 
372     TO DIXIE AND TIIE TROPICS.
A military force of two or three hundred men,
maintained in three small forts, suffices to overawe
the sixteen thousand blacks and two thousand mulattoes; and enables the six thousand whites to live
without apprehension of insurrection or disorder.
Substantial and impartial justice seems to be administered by the magistrates between all classes of the
population.   Crimes are rare;  there is but little
drunkenness; and the few violations of the Labor
Act occurring are the result, for the most part, of
the general disposition to idleness and petty thieving. The Moravian missionaries, who have been in
the island for upward of a century, devote themselves to the moral and religious care of the blacks,
and the teaching of their young children. There are
nine public schoolhouses; and all colored childrenunfortunately, one half of them die in infancy, chiefly
from neglect of parents-are compelled by law to
attend school between the ages of six and twelve.
Yet it must be confessed, so little time has the African nature had to improve itself in since the abolition of slavery, that not a quarter of these pupils,
during all these years of attendance at school, can be
truly said to learn how to read and write; and the
passages of Scripture which all so fluently repeat
from day to day, are acquired by ear. But they receive much excellent moral and religious instruction 
SANTA CRUZ AND IIS FREEDMEN.  373
from their teachers. They are also taught one day
in the week in Sunday schools; while all, both chil dren and parents, are diligent attendants on public
worship. They take great pleasure and pride in
going to church, whether Moravian, Lutheran, Cath olic, or Episcopal, in their clean clothes, especially on
festival days; and it is said that many of the elderly
dames are regularly confirmed every time the bishop
comes to the island.
The more industrious and intelligent blacks acquire a competency; laying up their gains in savings
banks, buying small plots of land, and building small
houses in town. On market days, they may be seen
driving to town in so-called "emancipation carts "a kind of two-wheeled vehicle, without the ease of
springs;  while the little picaninnies  who  stay at
home entertain themselves with riding on the backs
of their fathers' pigs. Many of the blacks who have
permission of the magistrates to live in town are
mechanics; some are engaged in some petty trade;
and others are fishermen, supplying the market, twice
a week, with most delicious fish, and occasionally
offering for sale to the stranger those delicate pink
pearls found in the conch shell, which are so much
more beautiful than corals.
Slowly, but surely, the African of this tropical
region, set free from bonds, is attaining his majority 
2'0 DIXIE AND ~HE TROPICS.
-his manhood. Not only does he go regularly to
church, but he sits in a pew in the midst of white
folks. The mulatto son of a white planter now and
then inherits a valuable sugar estate. IHe begins,
accordingly, to give balls, and is invited with his
family to Government House.  You do not yet meet
him at every turn in society; but you do sometimes
come on him suddenly, when not at all expecting it.
And in many cases, it must be allowed, he appears
every whit as worthy of a place in polite society as
his Caucasian neighbor. Indeed, while the fortunes
of the white man are gradually going down in the
island, his are slowly going up. In another hundred
years, the African blood will probably have thoroughly stained the Danish and English; and whereas
now the fashion is for hair to be made straight by
the use of pomatum, then, no doubt, it will be curled
back again by the barber. With the progress of
years, the number of educated mulattoes is constantly increasing; while the children of pure blacks
are, day by day, learning something at school, if not
always their letters. Almost every respectable cabin
in the island will give convincing proof to the traveller that the inmates are more or less blindly feeling
after a higher ideal of life; for in it he will see that
they are the possessors of a nice clean bed-a high
mahogany four-poster-covered with a snow-white
374 
SANTA CRUZ A.ND ITS FREEDM.IEAN.   3 75
counteitane, and not less than half a dozen pillows;
though the whole family are, for the time being, in
the habit of sleeping pellmell in their rags beneath
it. No doubt the day will soon conice when they
will occupy the bed itself. 
UCHA P TER XXX F.
St.. Tho)mas.
TO one approaching St.- Thomas after, it may
be, a long and wearisome voyage, the Virgin
Islands, which stand in a group before it, seem to
come out, like a company of fair maidens, to bid him
welcome. Graceful forms all, they come with hands
full of green wreaths and the gorgeous flowers of
the tropics, scattering them on either side upon the
blue, sunny waters. The eye, tired of gazing for
weeks at the ocean's monotonous horizon and the
unsympathizing waves, is so cheered by the sight of
these fair isles, well named after England's famous
queen, standing side by side in pleasant companionship, assuming every comely volcanic shape, and
draped to the feet with the softest, freshest green, as
were of old the eyes of the children of Israel when
Miriam and her sisters came forth before them with
timbrels and with dances.  A  few of these islands 
ST. THOMAS.
are cultivated, producing sugar, cotton, rum, and
wild cattle; but the greater number are too mountainous, as well as too small to be inhabited. Swift
and dangerous currents run between many of them.
Others are guarded by reefs of coral, lying nearly
level with the surface of the water; while the precipitous, rocky sides of a few of them equally repel
the approach of man. The sea fowl enjoy here an
undisputed home-or disputed only by their brethren, the high-colored land birds. Nature here reaps
her own harvests of falling leaves and flowers, and
receives into her own lap the spontaneous fruits as
they drop. Here reigns silence, unbroken by the
stroke of the axe or the dog's bark, and as perpetual
as the summer which dwells on these shores throughout the year. What few sounds may chance to reach
the ear of the mariner, while, borne by the currents,
or propelled by the softly blowing trade wind, he
floats silently through these narrow channels, are,
doubtless, such voices of the syrens as in ancient
times were heard by the voyagers through the Sicilian straits, when Calypso and her sisters dwelt on
the shores. If, in the nineteenth century, one were
ever liable to be bound by the spell of enchantment,
it certainly might be when, coming up on deck in the
early morning, he finds himself suddenly transported
out of the blank of the ocean into the midst of this
377 
TO D)IXIAE AND THE TROPICS.
fantastic group of islands. Nor would the illusion
be dissipated when, having passed through them, he
catches sight, in the distance, of the hills of the
town of St. Thomas, and sails up, between sheltering
highlands, its beautiful expanse of bay and harbor.
Alas! that it should be, the moment he sets foot in
the streets.
Twice I was in St. Thomas; but each time I got
away from it as soon as I could.  It is no place for
pleasure-only for business; for life here is entirely
mercantile. Invited by its fine harbor, commerce
hither brings, year after year, large stores for the
consumption, not so much of the inhabitants of St.
Thomas itself, as of those of the neighboring West
Indies. This city is a great distributing point for
both the windward and the leeward islands; a centre for numerous lines of sailing packets and steamships, and a supply station for vessels of war.  Merchandise is brought to this mart from Europe and
the United States, and various other parts of the
world; and is sold by representatives of almost all
the commercial nations, Jews and Greeks. The
streets are a Babel of strange sounds; the faces of
the merchants are of all colors; their costumes are a
motley of all styles; but their occupation is one. It
is to get money-to be rich-and, at the same time,
to live luxuriously. No town in England can possi
378 
ST. THOMAS.
bly be so shopkeeping, nor any Yankee population
half so greedy of gain.  There is a Spanish-Jew
look in the general countenance, which makes one
desirous of curtailing his dealings in the shops and
market places, and even of bringing to as speedy a
close as may be his residence in the town.
Of course, there must be many individual exceptions to this prevailing type of commercial character.
I myself was personally acquainted with merchants
of high intelligence and liberal sentiments.  And it
gives me pleasure to add, that one of the principal
apothecaries of the town was a man learned in science, though self-taught, and had by his own efforts
made a collection of objects in natural history, not
surpassed, if equalled, by any similar collection in the
WTest Indies.
There was, also, one noted person then living in
St. Thomas, who was without any other occupation
than that of seeking his own pleasure. This was the
famous Mexican general, Santa Anna. Residing in a
spacious house on one of the heights of the city, and
overlooking the entire length of the beautiful harbor, he devoted himself exclusively to cock fighting
-or rather, he had done so until just before the
periotl of my visit. And the occasion of his suddenly throwing up his occupation was sufficiently
characteristic of-West Indian manners. The hero
379
1% 
TO DI)JXIE AND) THE TROPICS.
with one leg had for a series of years been passionately addicted to fighting cocks. The chanticleering
of vast numbers of coops was music to his ears. He
daily promenaded in the midst of his birds, admiring their strut, their cropped tails, and their
haughty challenging of each other to the fight; and
when Sunday came, he went into the pit with his
pockets full of doubloons. So he lived year after
year, feeding his cocks, and fighting all comers. But,
at last, there arrived a party of Spaniards from the
island of Porto Rico, bringing their trained champions to contend with him. During the first few
days they lost, for the most part, their money and
their birds; but as gradually the betting began to
run higher, the luck began to turn in favor of the
strangers. Their cocks rapidly improved in pluck
and vigor; while the Mexican Don's heroes showed
a disposition to turn tail, and were easily floored.
After a few rounds, in fact, they fell dead; and, in
consequence, the doubloons all passed across the pit
into the pockets of the gay fellows from Porto Rico.
What was the meaning of all this? asked the
valiant general, as he saw his ounces so rapidly leaving him.  To his great disgust, he found, on inquiry,
that the Spaniards' cocks had the feathers of'their
necks poisoned; so that their opponents, after pecking at them, soon became affected by the subtile
venom, and were easily disabled.
380 
ST. THOM4 S.
"I'll never fight another cock in all my days!"
exclaimed  the  incensed  hidalgo.   He  thereupon
kicked every Porto Rican out of sight with his
wooden foot, and straightway shut up his cockpit.
Unluckily for him, he had already lost, as the story
went, several thousand ounces.
If St. Thomas cannot be praised for anything else,
it must be for its situation, than which few cities can
boast a fairer. For it is built on three round hills,
of about equal size, which rise directly from the
waterside; and from this triple height it looks down
upon a harbor extending several miles in nearly a
straight course out to sea. Beautifuil in its natural
features, this magnificent sheet of water is always
enlivened by the white sails and black smoke of the
coming and going sea craft.  Huge  steamers and
ships of war ride at anchor on it; and great numbers of sail and rowboats are constantly dancing
over its blue waters. Behind the hills on which the
city is erected rises, at a little distance, a background
of mountains covered with vegetation. Indeed, so
close do the hills come down to the sea in the neighborhood of the town, and so mountainous is the
whole surface of the island, that the inhabitants possess but one carriage road, a few short miles in
length, and only one or two pleasant promenades.
Of these they make good use on holidays, but are
never seen on them when the shops are open.
381 
TO DIXIE AND) THE TROPICS.
There is but one farm on the island, and this lies
hid, like a bird's nest, among  the hills.  All its
products and supplies are transported to and fro on
horse or mule back. The mountains stand for fences;
there are no neighbors' pigs or cattle, hens or turkeys, to commit trespass; no outlying squatters to
harvest the rightful owner's corn, or dig his potatoes
in the night time; no vagrant boys to pilfer his
grapes and oranges.  The occupant of such an estate
might lead a life which, in uninterrupted tranquillity,
and exemption from -the great world's annoyances,
would be second only to that of Robinson Crusoe
with his goats. At the time of my visit, the proprietor, like a Spaniard as he was, wished to dispose of
his solitary estate by lottery. For thirty thousand
dollars-I think that was the sum-he could be induced( to part with this hill property, including all its
furniture and equipage, its sheep, and cows, and
horses, and asses.  There was to be one prize, and I
know not how many thousand blanks-say fifteen.
In Spain, all things are liable to go into the lottery
box.  A man,may draw anything out of it, except it
be a wife. And why not, then, a farm in the mountains of St. Thomas? I have never heard who-if,
indeed, the scheme did not fall through-was the fortunate holder of the prize. But most likely, if the
proprietor happened to have a few tickets left un
382
-1 
ST. THOMAS.
sold, as he naturally would, he must have been the
man himself. San Fernando! if I could only put all
my Spanish castles into lotteries! One need not be
so very much greater a fool to buy the tickets, than
to jump at the chance of those of a farmer on the
mountain tops of St. Thomas.
One would naturally suppose that a city thus set
on a hill would have good drainage, and be endowed
with all the sanitary virtues; but, as is well known,
it is not so in the case of St. Thomas. The thickly
crammed quarters of the laboring classes are rarely
free from the ravages of some form or other of pestilence.  Fever, cholera, and smallpox are domesticated here; and often extend, also, to all parts of the
city.  Fair as it appears to one approaching it from
the sea, St. Thomas is but an apple of Sodom-full
of dead men's ashes.
Nevertheless, it is but simple justice to add, that,
however much I had heard of its epidemics before
visiting it, when there I neither heard nor saw any
sig,ns of them. I was well myself; while the indications at the table of the hotel where I staid, were
that all the guests were in excellent appetite.  Indeed, I was very comfortable in the great inn of St.
Thomas. Its piazza could hardly have been cooler if
it had been built by Moors instead of Spaniards; for
it possessed ample space, an open colonnade, and
383 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
only lacked a fountain in its centre. There was one
in fact, in a small garden which the piazza directly
overlooked, while, beyond  this, the harbor lay so
fully exposed  to view, that, while sipping their
coffee, or smoking their cigars, the patrons of the
house beheld near by the active movement of boats
and shipping. Here parties could sit at tea, eat ices,
play at dominoes, talk, smoke even, all without interfering with each other any more than if they had
been seated in a tea garden on the banks of the Elbe
or the Rhine. In hot countries space is the chief of
the architectural virtues.  I never sat down in the
vast dining room of this hotel without a cool sense
of satisfaction. I was sure of a bountiful supply of
fresh air, whatever else might fail at dinner;  and
that was certainly better than an extra joint and
pudding. Could I have slept in a bedchamber of
equal dimensions, I might perhaps have imagined
that, in reaching St. Thomas, I had arrived at that
emporium of delights which the dwellers in the
neighboring islands fully believe it to be. But, alas!
all places in this world fall, in some trifle or other,
short of elysium.
384 
CffA P TIER XXX VI.
The Bermudas.
N looking on the map of the world along a line
of latitude eastward from Charleston, one sees,
far off in the mnid-Atlantic, five or six little dots.
These represent the Bermudas. They are a cluster
of small islands as nLunerous as the days in the year
-spots of land surrounded by innumerable waves
and boundless wastes of ocean, where the deep bottom of the sea has come up to take breath and greet
the skies. Points of light are they, where the sun's
rays are reflected by chalkstone and sea shells, and
the still brighter habitations of men, all whitewashed
even to the roofs; where the moon and stars mre
mirrored in tiny sheltered bays, more placid than the
ever-rolling ocean around; and where the mariner,
still afar off, descries wide circles of flashing foam,
as the long Atlantic billows surge against the reefs
of coral, which on all sides protect these solitary
17
I 
.'0 DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
isles from the ravages of the angry main. Like
angels' wings the breakers flash and shine, by day
and by night, guarding the little sunny vales that lie
nestling within their magic ring; nor completely
shutting out the ships which seek for a refuge from
the buffetings of the sea, but through secure, if narrow passages, inviting them in to rest in peaceful
havens, and offering to famished crews their laid-up
stores, and the fresh fruits of the land. A place of
refuge in the midst of pathless waters, h]ow many  a
shattered bark, since the day when Columbus sailed
the sea, has sought in distress these hospitable harbors; how many an anxious mariner's eyes have
strained their balls to discover through the blackness
of tempest and hurricane the guiding lights of Hamilton and St. George's; how many land birds, driven
off their course by gales, and exhausted by long
flights over the weary waters, have folded their
wings in joy and peace amid the succoring branches
of these cedar trees!
I remember it as one of the most charming
drives of my life, when, released from a four days'
imprisonment on board the dirty, though stanch
British steamer "Merlin," a Government mail packet
running between St. Thomas and Halifax, via Bermuda, I was conveyed, one filne April day, by a
sturdy pair of grays, leisurely through the centre of
386 
TIIE BERMU-DA S.
these islands.  The road was a continuous curve.
Now it wound up gentle ascents; now it followed
the course of sinuous valleys; here it made a turn
about a ledge of rocks; there it bent around the
graceful half circles of the shores. But most of the
turns were short; so that the way was full of surprises. At times I was in the midst of groves of
low-growing cedars, which cover most of the higher
grounds of the islands; then I descended into small
valleys, mere dimples on the surface of the land,
where there were little patches of cultivation; then
again I came suddenly upon some inland bay, where
the waves of the ocean were reduced to ripples,
which broke in low whispers on the beaches. Such
lovely, land-locked bits of sea water were they, and
green as liquid emeralds-here pale, and there deep
green, according as the depth of water above the
coral bottom varied-sometimes purple even, especially where the prospect opened seaward, half revealinlg in the remote distance groups of islets, now
darkened by the deep shadows of passing clouds,
and now lit up by the returning floods of light, made
doubly effulgent by the flashing and glimmer of the
surrounding waves. To the silence of the forest
succeeded quickly the murmur of the sea.  From
the dark-green foliage of the cedars the eye passed
by easy gradation to the green of shallow waters,
387 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
and the distant blue and purple of the deep. The
solitude of nature was interrupted at intervals by the
wayside cottages of the small farmers; and especially, on approaching the town of Hamilton, did I
frequently come upon snug little villas, embosomed
in trees, and shrubbery, and flowers. The hedge
rows were composed of scarlet geraniums, and oleanders, and pomegranates, in full bloom. Nearer the
town, what  multitudes of roses were blowing in
every garden, and climbing over the cottage walls!
The very air was rose colored.
But neither of the two Bermudian capitals, St.
George's and Hamilton, are particularly noticeable as
towns.  Their life is mostly seafaring.  They being
built directly along the harbors, the vessels come up
close into town, their bowsprits projecting over some
of the principal streets, and their masts peering over
the chimney tops.  From the sidewalks one beholds
the sea-going vessels arriving and departing; the
songs of the sailors ring out above the rattling of
the carriage wheels; and gay little sail-boats are seen
flying with birds' wings  up  and down  the bays.
Here is one of England's famous naval establishments; so that the streets are always more or less
filled with uniforms, while the small parlors of society are crowded with epaulettes. Even the convicts,
of whom  there is here a large colony from  the
388 
THE BERMUDAS.
mother country, live and labor in huge hulks-great
invalided sea monsters, which lie at anchor near one
of the islands. When the commodore of the station, which, in company with an English friend, we
were inspecting, politely asked us to luncheon, we
found him living on a little island not so very much
larger than a seventy-four gun ship. Received in a
drawing room, built as much on the model of a
ship's cabin as of anything else, we were served by
boys in sailor shirts and jackets; and, on taking
leave, were sent home in a boat which lay moored
but a few steps from the door of the mansion house.
But I remember well that, in spite of the huge round
of salted beef which stood on one end of the table,
as red as the face of the brave old commodore himself, the entertainment had the pleasant flavor of the
land about it; and I was especially grateful for having the taste of the "M[erlin's" sea biscuit taken
out of my mouth by the April-grown strawberries.
Have I said that the commodore's face was red, as of
one who had faced in his lifetime many a breeze, if
not a battle?   Then I will add my belief that his
heart was full of good red English blood also-redder than his beef and strawberries, if possible; for
he showed kindness to me, who was a stranger; and,
according to his opportunity, gave proof that he was
endowed with that fine sense of hospitality which is
389 
TO -DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
so generally the crowning gift and grace of an Englishman in his own home.
The Bermudians are not always following the
sea; but, when on shore, are busy raising onions and
potatoes. Generally, sailors make poor farmers; yet
here they succeed in producing early vegetables in
such perfection, that it is to be feared lest the Bernimudas, instead of being famed as the oleander isles,
may becone known in common parlance as the
.spring kitchen garden of New York. Certain it is
that, early in the season, the Bermudian brigs and
schooners, all built of red cedar, are annually setting
off for the " States," laden down to the gunwale
with  these  useful fruits of the soil.  A  certain
amount of the best arrowroot in the world likewise
forms part of their cargo.  The soil and climate
must be remarkably adapted to the cultivation of
these products; for I never tasted, in any other part
of the world, vegetables of such good quality. Nature excels here, not in trees, for the cedars are
scrubby; nor in men or women, for the best of these,
as well as the worst, are imported from England;
but in flowers, and especially in onions, tomatoes,
and potatoes. She produces the latter ill such exhausting perfection, that they are incapable of perpetuating their species with any similar degree of
excellence; and every year the farmers are obliged
390 
THE BERAIUDAS.
to import for seed our own " Western reds."  Imported in the body, they are here endowed with the soul
of goodness. So the most luscious pears often yield
imperfect seeds; and, in order to obtain new varieties, the pomologists raise their seedlings from somewhat inferior sorts, in the production of which
nature stops short of her utmost possibility of pulp.
If it is not to be supposed that these small-islanders have developed any great degree of mechanical
genius, still it must be allowed that they are tolerable ship builders.  To be sure, the old English hulks,
which lie at anchor about the islands, set before the
eyes of the ship carpenter a sorry lot of models; and
sometimes, as I was told, when the British admiralty
produces some naval abortion, like their first ironclad frigate, they send it to the Bermudas, in order
to have it moored well out of sight. Hiowever, the
colonial brigs and other small craft, though clumsylooking enough, are good sailers, and manage to run
over to New York with their potatoes before the rot
gets into them.  There are also to be met with here
a few cunning artificers in cedar wood, who out of
this fair and pleasantly scented material fabricate
various articles of furniture and the toilette. The
delicate palmetto work of female artists, likewise, is
to be set down to the credit of the colonists; for
their skilful fingers weave the prettiest of baskets,
391 
392     TO DLYIIE AND THE TROPICS.
and the lightest and jauntiest of hats and bonnets.
As the convicts are not allowed the freedom of following the seas in their penitentiary hulks, they, too,
contrive to relieve the monotony of life by occasionally working in the petrified water which is found in
the stalactite caves of the islands, and from which
they manufacture very pretty brooches, and other
ornaments. Loafers permitted to go at large sometimes search the shores for a species of seaweed,
which, after it has been buried in the sand long
enough to get rid of the congealed salt water with
which it is incrusted, they make a fanciful kind of
riding whips.  The stranger is expected to make
small investments in all these specimrens of handicraft-to say nothing of his bags of potatoes, strings
of onions, boxes of tomatoes, and bottles of arrowroot.
In Hamilton I found two or three of my country
men,  eating  their  potatoes, and recruiting their
health.   But I do not think the climate can be
recommended for invalids at any season of the year,
excepting, perhaps, the spring.   In  summer,  the
south winds too much prevail, bringing intense heat,
accompanied with humidity-a sultry, stifling atmosphere-and, consequently, both languor of body and
depression of mind.  In winter, the weather is chilly
and variable. The Bermudas are then the vexed 
THE BERMUDA S.
Bermoothes of the poet. For the winds then course
after each other around these islands as a goal; while
they breathe out of their nostrils dire mists and vapors. The atmosphere is so constantly charged with
humidity, that the inner house walls emit a cold perspiration worse even than the stone walls of Paris.
The paper hangings are discolored; articles of dress
mould as in a ship's cabin; the inhabitants live in a
perpetual vapor bath, and one which is as mutch too
cold for comfort as that of the Grand Turk is too
hot. Unhappily, there is but little fuel in the islands
wherewith to repel the cold and dampness; for there
is no coal, and but a moderate supply of wood.  The
natives, of course, fight out the battle of the winter
as best they can with flannel and strong beer; but
valetudinarians of other lands should leave them to
do it alone.
And yet it may seem almost ungenerous in me to
write in such disparaging terms of a climate which
to myself was so agreeable. The few days of my
sojourn in-shall I call them the oleander, or the
rose islands? were days without stain or blemish.
Coming from the tropics, to me the coolness of this
more  northern atmosphere was more  exhilarating
than could have been any tonic from the doctors'
shops. I felt refreshed and invigorated by breathing
this air, as one does after taking a cold bath.  From
17' 
TO DIXIE AN-D THE TROPICS.
morning until evening the sun shone out of a clear
blue sky, with only occasional white clouds floating
through it, and happily tempered by its genial heat
the sharp coolness of the sea air in spring time.
During the period of my visit, all the vexing winds
had withdrawn to their caves-probably the remarkable stalactite caves which exist in some of these
islands.  Only the zephyrs were at large, gambolling
on the water, and frolicking among the cedar trees;
while Boreas and his dire crew kept their secret
orgies far under ground. The mornings and evenings were perfectly calm; and at midday the faint
breezes served only to waft through open doors the
fragrance of flowers blooming in the fields and gardens.
I recollect with special pleasure the beautiful calm
of the Sunday morning after my arrival. No Sunday could be more sabbatical, more hushed, more full
of heavenly light, or pervaded with a more genial
warmth.  As I walked out under the thick cypress
trees, and along the roadside, the silence of the
morning was broken by no noise of business, or even
sounds in nature. Not even a cow lowed, nor a dog
barked, nor a cock crowed, nor hardly a cricket or a
grasshopper chirrutped.
Here and there, the dark thickets were lighted up
by the flash of a cardinal grosbeak, which uttered a
394 
THE BERMUDAS.
carol or two, and then was still again. The redbreast now and then added a few melodious notes to
its early morning song;  and the gorgeous bits of
humming birds made, occasionally, a low murmur in
the hedges. Otherwise, nature lay as silent as if
entranced; while the most brilliant sunlight bathed
all the isles of cedar, checkering the ground beneath
them with sharp contrasts of light and shade, and
spread its gilding over the circumambient waters and
the coral shores.
If every day in the Bermudas were like this, men,
whether invalid or robust, would be attracted to
them as formerly to the Happy Islands of ancient
fable; and I am glad to be able to bear witness that
there may be such in the month of April.
395 
CHAPTER XXX VI.
Cape Cod.
HERE  is always  a second  summer  in the
American year.  When the September gales
have swept over the woods, and shaken the first
leaves of autumn to the ground; when from the gardens the more delicate buds and fragrant blossoms
have passed away; when the earlier fruits have
ripened and been gathered; when evening begins
sooner to draw the curtains of the day, and the sun's
horses start later on their morning courses; when
the pleasure parties of the season are breaking up,
and words of farewell are being said, and over the
most buoyant mind a certain pensiveness steals, and
regrets fall upon it as from out the autumnal air,
then the year, which had begun to withdraw its face,
turns again with a parting smile, and kisses its hand
to us. Then comes a succession of golden days,
when the air is still, and the heavens, slightly veiled 
CAPE COD.
with purple haze, are without a cloud.  The autunnal flowers are arrayed in all their glory.  The orchards yield up their red-sided, gold-colored apples
for the winter's store.   The grapes are turned to
purple.   The latest pears melt upon the devouring
lips, and the last drops of sweetness are being distilled into the yet unplucked peaches. Now the diligent housewife gathers from out the leaves, still
green, the yellow, shining quince, and, correcting its
tart juices with melted sugar, lays it by for winter
tea drinkings. The farmer husks his corn, making
the greensward shine with the long, broad line of
glittering ears. HIe piles up, also, the yellow pumpkins, or hangs the squashes against the wall, by their
necks. His boys bring home at night the cows from
still green and thickly matted meadows, with udders
wide distended. The poultry yards are full of cack.
ling, and youthful attempts at chanticleering. Fleets
of geese and ducks float down the brooks, or lie
moored on the ponds; and the half-grown turkey
cocks gabble, and spread their tails over vast spaces
of yard and pasture. This season is the mellowing
of the year. In sunny European lands, and beneath
sacred Oriental skies, the grapes are now trodden in
the winepress; and even in our own New Jersey,
the bounty of nature runs to sweet cider. The earth
has put forth her great productive power, and re
397 
TO DIXIE AND THE T.R OPICS.
joices as a woman after childbearing; the sun has
done his year's work, and ripened all seeds and
grains; there is food garnered up for man and beast;
and the great God seems to look down out of heaven
upon what IHe hath wrought, and pronounce it good.
It is a season to be enjoyed as one does old wine.
As we bring this out of the cellar on high festal
occasions, to celebrate the rite matrimonial, or to
honor the anniversary of a birthday, to greet the
coming of long-absent friends, and freshen the memories which run far back to days of  "auld lang
syne;" so this brief second summer of the year
should be filled up with unusual joys. Then make a
holiday. Then telegraph to your best friend to come
with wife and child. Let boys and girls be let loose
from school, that they may go a-nutting. Let there
be picnics in the glens and on the hillsides. Climb
the mountains. Coast the shores.'Tis the hunter's
moon, and you may follow the path of the buck and
the doe, or hey on pointer or setter. You see the
breaking of day as yoiu go on your way to lie for
wild fowl, which, when it is yet dark, fly overhead
with whistling wings; while far off is heard the
scream of the coming wild geese. Now let the reel
hiss, as the line is cast from the rocks for tautog. It
is the season, also, for bass fishing. Now let the
lover of nature and mushrooms prevent the sun, and
398 
CAPE COD.
gather his breakfast with the dew on it. Let all
men-all Yankees-eat pumpkin pie.  The full moon
favors husking by night; and he who finds brindled
ears may kiss his partner, though he may no longer
drink milk punch, for it is contrary to law. Now is
"training" time; and there will be cakes at the muster for old and young-and, surely, pop beer.  Now
pack into country wagons, three on a seat.  At morning, wind the horn, and let the hounds bay. At
night, draw the bow, dance, sing, and make merry,
giving God thanks; for this glorious second summer,
called Indian, is given us but for seven days, or it
may be ten. Then get quickly out of doors-be
off-and caps in the air!
Happy harvest days! and happily did I spend
them, ankle deep in thy golden sands, Cape Cod!
Perhaps I should have done better still to have
gone in rough weather. The scene here, doubtless,
is more characteristic when nature frowns, than when
she smiles. For the Cape is decidedly tragic. Its
great mood is when nature is angry, and all her elements are at war. MWhen the east wind is rising out
of the sea, and the pine woods begin to sigh for
pain; when the ocean, fretted to madness by the
gale, lashes the long sandy beaches, and breaks high
over the rocks on the shore; when the drift sand
flies like snowflakes, and the whirlwinds, in their
399 
TO I)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
rough play, bear it aloft in the air; when the rain,
bursting the clouds, contends in its turn with both
winds and waves, and beats them down;  when, in
winter, the sharp sleet cuts the air, and the snow blast shuts out the light of heaven, and night, set ting in, adds the terrors of utter darkness to those
of the storm, and the signal gun of the East India man, drifting upon the leeshore-a few hours before
so near the wished-for haven-is heard faintly boom ing through the uproar of the elements, and vainly
calling upon the wrecker, who sits idle by his blazing
fireside, pitying the poor souls whose imaginary cries
ring in his ears, but whom he cannot save from the
jaws of the devouring waves. For no mortal arm
can stay the implacable wrath of the Almighty when
He bids the sea roar, and engulf in its depths the
impious mariner and his ship.  Then the traveller, on
this long arm of sand vainly stretched out to embrace the unwilling, untamable ocean, and marry it
in loving wedlock to the land, sees and feels what
Cape Cod is.  With awe he hears the sublime moaning of the long, flat beaches, and the more angry
resounding of the coast, where it is bolder, and
rocky.  The north shore answers with its uproar to
the uproar of the south.  As, at sea, the wind whisties and sings in the cordage of the scudding ship to
the deep bass of the roaring waves, so, here, the
400 
CAPE COD.
howling of the winds among the branches of the
oaks, and the loud lament of the pine woods, are
added to the bellowing of the strands. How weak
does man appear when tossed on these waves-!  Yet
how strong, when, in his snug cot on the shore, he
sits reading by the unflickering candle, and heeds not
either the outcries of nature or the wrath of God!
But, at the period of my visit, the stormy Cape
was lying as calm and placid in the midst of the sea,
as, in midsummer, rise the round tops of the Alleghanies in the untroubled southern heavens.  The
sun looked with warm, enamored beams upon the
bosom of the earth; the winds lay reposing in the
depths of the pine woods, scarcely breathing audibly; and the tired waves slept on the shore. At
evening, as the full, round moon rose from the Atlantic, it spread out a level, silvery carpet to the horizoIn, almost tempting the beholder to walk forth on
the high sea; as, on solemn festal occasions, the
gold-spangled tapestry invites the feet of the guests
who go up into the lighted palaces of kings.  And
all night long, when at intervals I awoke out of my
dreams, I heard, at the distance of a stone's throw,
the innumerable ripples breaking on the sand, as if
the uxorious old ocean were kissing, even in his
sleep, the softly breathing lips of the shore.   At
midnight, I arose from my bed, and walked out into
401 
402     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
the air, feeling an irrepressible curiosity to listen to
the whispering of the night winds, and overhear the
telling of their secret loves.   I beheld, also, the
dance of the waves, which were keeping up their
revelry beneath the light of the moon, tripping it as
gracefully as fairies on the greensward, and quickly
dissolving in mutual embraces, like hearts in the
joined breasts  of lowers.  How  refreshing  and
wholesome was the salt in the air from the ocean!
"There can no malignant spirit or goblin walk this
strip of earth," said I, returning to my couch; "the
air is too pure." And, indeed, it can scarcely be
credited that a real, bonaflde ghost was ever seen
on Cape Cod. There are Quakers here, but no
witches. It is not possible.
But by day my eyes feasted, through all the
hours, on the richly colored autumnal landscape.
Here stretch, for miles beyond miles, the salt meadows of Barnstable, watered not by rains and dews
only, but by the monthly flowing of the tides; and
these level tracts are now as tawny as the lion's skin.
This, likewise, being the season when the pine trees
shed their needles, the earth beneath them is no less
tawny than the open marshes. And everywhere the
sand of the shore is as yellow as the breast of a
robin.  In the warm rays of the sun it even shines
like beaten gold, making the whole Cape gilt-edged. 
CAPE COD.
But on the uplands, the yellow runs into a russet, a
richly tinted brown, and forms a background which
is covered with a glory of autumnal tints, the purple
of oaks and whortleberry bushes, the orange and
scarlet of maples, the green of pines and cedars.
There is color everywhere-on the fields and trees;
on the meadows and the shores; in the hollows and
around the edges of pools. Not a bush but glows,
not a stone but shines. The very par-ticles of sand,
if closely inspected, flash like diamonds by candlelight; and, though held in your hand, seem almost
as far off and as glittering as the stars in the blue
twilight of the night. And these colors are all
dashed together-a beautiful variety in unity-making a kaleidoscope in the eyes of every man. Still,
it must be acknowledged that, as one proceeds farther upon the Cape, he notices a gradual falling off
in the tone of nature's coloring, as old pictures in
travelling down the course of time lose, during each
century, more and more of their first blush and gorgeousness. The brilliancy of the reds and purples
fades, and the browns grow duller. Even the fine
gold of the pumpkins becomes tarnished; the color
of animals runs to sorrel; and the habitations of
man, partaking of the tendency of nature, show only
the unpainted gray, or the stains of the original red
and green, or the blank white of modern fashion,
403 
404      TO I)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
which makes the pupils of the eye instinctively contract to look at it. There is evidently a deficiency
of coloring materials on the great painter's easel;
and, at last, whether the power of nature be diminished, or this part of her work be yet raw and unfinished, there remain only the green of the pines and
the yellow of the sands, wherein is no harmony.
And yet there is a notable exception to this law
of gradual fading. There is more red in the face of
the Cape Codders, all the way down to Provincetown, than of any other people in the States.  It is
the old English red-blood-red. Though the skin be
generally pretty thoroughly sunburnt, bronzed often
by the glare from the salt water, yet the vermilion
shines through, giving evidence of good blood and
vigorous arteries. The race is, indeed, purely British. For the inhabitants are all direct descendants
of the Puritans, or, at least, of early emigrants from
Great Britain.  There has been no mixture of races
here. While the Cape has always been a fruitful
womb of men, sending her sons out into all the
broad American earth, there has, on the contrary,
been  no  reflex tide of immigration.   The  Cape,
therefore, is all of one blood, of one face, of one
speech, of one homogeneous heart. True, there are
Indians still in Marshpee; but are they not also red
men? Their faces are, indeed, not a little smutted 
CAPE COD.
by a dash of negro blood in them; but some, fortunately, still show the reddish glitter of the original
copper.  At least, they are not pale faced, but high
colored, and come not without a degree of grace into
the autumnal landscape.
And this red-facedness of the people is a great
point in the description of Cape Cod. For, while
the earth gradually loses its color and all its signs of
vigor, as we travel toward the end of his path in the
sands, we see that the lord of nature, on the contrary, remains ruddy afnd strong featured. Neither
the weakness of the land, nor the extraordinary
strength of the circumambient waters and winds has
been able to produce degeneracy of the race of man.
He has buffeted the waves, and overmastered them.
He has sailed in the very eyes and teeth of the
winds.  He has fixed the floating sands, by planting
them with beach grass; has sown the pine trees in
furrows; has set oaks on the hilltops, that when the
winds, rising in their might, threaten to tear him
from the land, he may have something to hold on to;
has planted the barren shore with Indian corn, putting a dead "horse foot" in every hill; has grown
potatoes from seaweed down to the very line of highwater mark; has turned the mud of flats to oysters;
has dried the cod from the great deep into codfish;
and, finally, has manufactured the -sea itself into salt.
405 
406       TO -DIXIE AND  THE TROPICS.
Thus has man made himself master; and though, in
struggling with the earth to till it, he has sometimes
come upon his hip, like Jacob wrestling with the
angel, and though he has often been pinched by the
wind, and jammed against the leeward shore, yet,
after all, he has fought the lifelong battle with the
natural elements triumphantly, and still hangs out his
flag of victory in the red of his face.
The Cape Codder is hardy and vigorous, and may
emphatically be said to be a self-made man-external
nature having done so little for him. If the bone of
this young country may be considered as yet somewhat in the gristle, it is not so with that of this
Cape. Its bone is mature, and its muscle, also, is as
hard as rope's end and bowline.   Oft pelted by
storms and riddled by gales; now buried in snow
banks, and never quite sure of his footing in the
sands; now petrified by east winds fresh from
Greenland and the ice islands, and then, in hot summer days, when there is not a breath of air to break
the glazed surface of the surrounding ocean, baked
as if he were an ostrich egg; obliged constantly to
harass the surface of the earth, in order to extort
from it even  a niggardly increase; and, finally,
driven in despair to the wall of the sea, and in
straits compelled to sound the depths of the ocean
with line, hook, and sinker, and to vex its surface 
CAPE COD.
with his keels, the Cape Cod man has to fight his
way through existence as a gladiator his way out of
the ring. Of course, the feebler children die early;
but the grown man is all thews and sinews. His
nerves are of whalebone, and his skin will keep out
water like oakum.
But while this hardness of nature seems only to
develop a superior hardness in the frame of man, all
lower animals are ground downl in the face against
it.  I saw but few of them anywhere, and these
mostly stunted. Scarcely a dog yelped at me from
one end of the Cape to the other; for dogs do not
thrive well on fish; and, besides, the waves are there
to do the barking. But one would suppose it a very
paradise for cats; yet, as there are no mice but water
rats, so all the cats are catfish. And, accordingly, in
all my lying awake to listen to the vespers which the
waves on the beaches chanted through the livelong
hours of the night, I heard not a single charivari.
Sailors, too, are notoriously hard on horses; and
drift sand, like Jordan, makes a hard road to travel.
Shanghae fowls do not thrive well here. Their tails
do not grow, and they become so stupid as scarcely to
know how to set one foot before the other; making
awkward, uncertain movements, as if they were on
stilts, or even walking on their own eggs. At the
cattle show in the coumty town where I happened to
407 
408     TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
be present, the native breeds were all inferior.
Whatever was big and fat was foreign born, or, at
least, of blood not strictly Capish. Such was their
great Ayrshire bull-as huge a monster as the Trojan
horse, or the whale which, in attempting to jump
the Cape, landed himself, with all his tusks and blubber, high and dry on the sands. All the fat pigs
were Lady Suffolks; all the battering rams were
Southdowns; and all the hens that laid golden eggs
were born Poles. In fact, the only native animals at
all worth the showing were the men themselves.
One in particular there was at the ploughing match,
who reminded me of that Triptolemus of Eleusis, to
whomn, first of mortals, Ceres taught the use of the
plough. Cincinnatus himself could not have bent
over the tails with broader shoulders, nor a nose
more truly Roman. Between his legs and the length
of his furrows there was a certain correspondence.
When standing upright, he cast a shadow over half
the scene, and dwarfed the oxen before him till they
looked scarcely bigger than rats.
The inhabitants of this ridge of drift sand are
remarkably thrifty.   One sees nowhere indications
of extreme destitution. But while most of the people are independent in their circumstances, there is
not much wealth, and no show of it. The Grecian
column will, indeed, follow the traveller all the way 
CAPE COD).
down the Cape, though Greece may seem farther off
than ever; nor can all the window blinds on the
houses make the place appear in the least degree like
Venice. ilere he will see a Doric entablature pierced
by five small windows, and there a court house in the
form of an antique temple, but with its roof bristling
with half a dozen stacks of tall Yankee chimneys.
Yet this show of Grecian architecture, if it does not
always indicate good taste, is a certain sign of thrift.
The man who builds his house with a front like an
Athenian temple, is sure to be a financially successful one, and, generally, a man who has earned his
own money; for they who inherit fortunes, being
often travelled men, or cultivated by some considerable amount of reading, know that the public edifices of the old Greeks do not suit the purpose of
our modern housekeeping. Thus, every successful
captain of a ship who comes home to build a house
in the sands, must have Grecian pillars. He has got
the money, and he will have a cottage front like the
Parthenon. Nothing can stop him.
But the thrift of Cape Cod is not of that kind
which follows fawning. Here dwells evidently an
independent race of men, and all living at arm's
length of each other. Even in the towns the houses
do not touch, but stand apart. Every one has its
separate enclosure, with plot of greensward, orchard,
18
409 
TO J)IXIE AND THE TROPICS.
and garden patch. House and grounds form a dis tinct and independent establishment, leaning on no
other for its support; and though, unfortunately,
there are no plank roads in these sands, yet every
front door is approached from the street by a plank
pathway. Nor do these people generally occupy the
whole of their houses. They have vacant apart ments, though none to let. The front rooms are all
furnished, and shut up. The family live in the
kitchen. And they can afford to do so; for the back
part of the house is large enough to accommodate
all the members, while the other half is kept as
neat as wax, for tea drinkings, and the use of com pany. Hence, the stranger who goes stumbling
through the unlighted streets at night, may fancy
himself in a Turkish town, or an aoul of the Circassians. He can no more descry the light of a candle
than if he were in the centre of Ethiopia. Accordingly, to stir much abroad after nightfall in these
streets filled with painted wooden posts, is to set
mantraps for one's self, and present the very sorest
temptations to Providence.  For, inevitably, at this
corner you bark your shins; at that, you break your
neck. A Chinese lantern here would not be an unmeaning joke. Still, every native, doubtless, knows
the way to his habitation in the darkest night, as well
as a bee to its cell in the hive.
410 
CAPE COD.
And no Spaniard goes to bed earlier. He does
his work by daylight, and economizes candles. All
his habits are simple and natural. He dines on the
stroke of noon.  He takes his tea-rather weak-at
the hour when the merchant in the city sits down to
dinner; and he gets up in the morning just as the
town snob is going to bed. His fare, too, is simple:
at breakfast, fish; at dinner, fish-fish fried, broiled,
boiled, baked, and chowdered! Though, probably,
there is not one housewife in ten that has not a pie,
or a loaf of cake, stowed away somewhere. And
you  shall  nowhere  eat  such  delectable  "apple
slump;" nowhere such doughnuts, scarcely even in
Connecticut;  nowhere such baked  clams, out of
Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. There is,
also, a love of junketing and tea drinking, when
neighbors come together in winter evenings, and
when lassies assemble of an afternoon at a "quilting," making the bridal bedspread with innumerable
stitches, and squares of white calico, upon each of
which is written, in indelible ink, the name of the
fair sempstress who presented it. On these occasions
the number of hot biscuits and sweet cakes served
up is almost incredible; and, the next morning after
one, I have seen with my own eyes a small Cape boy
make a hearty breakfast of pound cake with plums
in it.
411 
412      TO DIXIE ANDI THIE TROPICS.
After all, life on the Cape is more like holiday
than one might suppose who had never been there.
For the men, being mostly seafaring, they do their
work in all parts of the world rather than at home.
The Cape Codder is omnipresent. He casts his line
wherever there are codfish. If there is a school of
bass or mackerel on any coast, he is after them with
his seine. He chases whales from the southern frozen zone to the northern; and will, some day, throw
his harpoons in the open sea. at the pole. In all the
steamers, liners, packets, he is captain and first mate.
On the high seas, or the coast, there is no better man
to handle a ship. You find him in all the crack clippers; and if a fore-and-aft schooner runs her nose
into any strange place, ten to one there is at her helm
a Cape Codder. He has also been in his day a fighting man. Some of our proudest frigates have been
sailed by him. He was on the lakes in the last war
with England, and threw up his cap there; and as
for privateering, it is that one among all the trades
of which he is Jack that he likes best to turn his
hand to.  Though not much of a fist at marching on
the land, the Cape Codder, nevertheless, was at Bunker Hill and Saratoga, besides having fought the
French and Indians in the old wars, and shouldered
arms at Quebec.
But when, having sailed all the seas, and roved 
lp
CAPE COD.
the world over, he comes back to his cot in the
sands, the short season he spends at home is a holi day.  Then give him a fast horse, and his good wife
or sweetheart by his side.  He must go to see all his
cousins. Nor does any man have so many uncles
and aunts, and kindred of various degrees. In fact,
nearly all the inhabitants are first cousins, or call
themselves  such.   Therefore,  when  the  mariner
comes home, there must necessarily be a good deal
of shaking of hands and merry making.  Everybody
must tell him the news; and he, in return, must tell
everybody of his adventures on' sea and shore. Ile
has probably seen the sea serpent-at least, a mermaid, a whale, the elephant in his own country, or
the Grand Mogul.  Undoubtedly, the longest yarns
are spun on Cape Cod which are spun anywhere ill
this country. And be it observed, that the Cape
Cod man, let him go to whatever part of the world
he may, is sure to come back. His local tastes never
die out; and where'er he roams, at every step away
he drags a lengthening cable. If he run a packet
between Boston and some other of our principal seaport cities, he does not remove his family to town;
but, the moment he gets on shore, hies away to the
Cape. He does not like the air of great cities, and
cannot really feel at home anywhere that there is not
sand under his feet, or even a little of it running
over his shoe quarters.
413 
TO DIXIE ANAD THE TROPICS.
This disposition to keep holiday I could not but
notice at the county cattle show. There was, indeed,
not much to be seen or heard-only the farmer's old
"Bright" and "Gelding," with his everlasting "geeup" and "haw-tu;"  only  a few pumpkins  that
might make the native mouth water a little to look
at, a few cranberries as big as your thumb and dark
as mahogany, which it is mischievously said the Cape
girls stain their cheeks with; only a show of Mexican flint cornstalks a dozen feet high, just to show
what the Cape sand could do; a specimen or two of
"quilting" and domestic stocking knitting; some
curious attempts in worsted fine art, and even the
beautiful vanity of cotton lace, and crocheting.
But, notwithstanding the little to be seen, everybody came to see it. They came three women in a
gig, and whole families in carryalls with tops of
painted canvas. There were farmers in homespun,
Quakers in drab, sailors in tarpaulins, and retired
captains in black broadcloth. Besides a few great
ladies in silks, and bonnets worn falling in the neck,
there were any number of good, plain, buxom housewives in their best bombazines and calicoes, most of
them with bevies of daughters, all high rigged, in
curls, in flounces, with petticoats trimmed with lace,
and all their ribbons flying. I saw very pretty girls
in swings; and very eager youths buying jack knives,
u
414 
CAPE COD.
whips with whalebone in the handle, and razors
warranted to shave, for twenty-five cents apiece.
Every small child's mouth was running over with
sugar candy, every man's with tobacco, and every
good-looking woman's with smiles. All-men,
women, and children-were most busily doing nothing; staring, and seeing nothing; moving hither
and thither, and going nowhere; and all appeared to
be excessively delighted. Whoever had no baker's
gingerbread in his pockets, had peanuts in them;
and if any father of a family had neglected to stuff
his coat tails with buns for the children at home, be
sure his better half had not forgotten to fill her
"working bag" with lions and elephants in cake,
and dogs and cats in sugar.   Almost every one
seemed to have bought something, and nobody
looked as though he had been "sold." They that
had got rattles were tickled, and so were they who
had only straws. And when, finally, at the close of
the day, the brass band came down the street, playing the old tune of "The girl I left behind me," I
remember to have said to myself, that it was the
happiest holiday I had seen since I was in Spain.
It is not strange that locomotive civilization
should not yet have reached the end of the Cape;
and the only wonder is, that the railroad should have
gone as far as it has before being effectually run into
415 
416      TO -DIXIE AND THE T-ROPICS.
the ground. At any rate, I reverted to the old, castoff stage coach at a point on the Cape very nearly
amidships. The day being as beautiful as the last
rose of autumn, I was naturally tempted to take a
seat on the coach box; and, seeing no person present
at all resembling a driver, I waived the ceremony of
asking leave, and straightway invited myself up.
But as I sat there quietly looking at the different cut
of the tails of the four horses, I was taken by surprise at seeing a small boy climb to the seat by my
side, and gather up the reins, as if he were really
going to drive the coach himself. I looked at the
boy again, and thought, surely, he could not be
turned of ten, though I afterward learned that he
was twelve, being small for his age. And this boy,
said I to myself, is evidently going to drive this
coach-and-four to Orleans! I immediately took out
my glass, and inspected him closely. Was he Phaeton?  If so, he would doubtless set the Cape on fire
before getting to the first stopping place. An old
whip he certainly was not. WVas he a whip at all?
There he sat on the box, a boy apparently ten years
of age, and his legs barely long enough to reach the
footboard. By and by he encouraged his team up a
hill with his voice, for whip he had not yet taken in
hand; but his chirrup had the clear, decided ring of
a fill-grown hostler.  "Get along, Chandler Bob," 
CAPE COD.
said he, at length, addressing the nigh wheel horse;
"and you, Jaques," calling to the off leader.  But I,
meanwhile, had not said a word, and, in fact, had
scarcely made up my mind what to say.  "Eh, there,
Lizzie! what are you doing?" called out the young
Jehu to the rather restless mare on the nigh lead.
Still I said nothing; but, screwing my glass firmly
into my right eye, looked, at intervals, sharply at the
boy. Besides his thick buckskin gloves, there was
nothing in his appearance in the least degree professional. He neither wore a pea jacket, nor was he in
his shirt sleeves. His sing]e-breasted jacket, buttoned close in the neck, was a plain drab; and
around his neck was a clean, modest turn-over collar,
such as is commonly worn by boys of tender age.
" Hunter!" he exclaimed, threateningly, and at the
same time offering to strike the off wheeler with the
slack of his reins. Whereupon "Hunter" mended
his pace, and I continued my observations. The
boy's hat was a nice felt, and of a modest color corresponding with that of his dress. A bourgeois,
well-to-do in the world, would not dress his son any
better. And his looks were in keeping with his
dress-his complexion being a healthy brown, almost
an         olive, but with no red in it, more like the bark of
the rose than its flower. Being so young, his features, of course, were not yet very definitely chis        18*
417 
TO DIXIE ANVD THE TROPICS.
elled, but showed, indistinctly, the outlines of a
future manliness. Only his eye was already perfect
-being a large dark gray, and thickly shaded by
long black lashes.
"Steady, Lizzie!" he cried, for the mare, which
was a little gay, was still inclined to fret occasionally.
And now, taking down my glass, I entered into
conversation with the young expert-for such he
was, beyond all question. The first inquiry one generally makes of boys of this age is, "What is your
name?" I used a little circumlocutory politeness,
but managed to find out that the lad's name was
James.  The second question naturally is, " How old
are you, my boy?" And I also contrived to get
this information from the little man without giving
offence.  Then, as James occasionally threw out his
foot with a sideward motion, in making his appeals
to " Hunter," I was curious to know the reason of it.
"Hunter," said he, "keeps an eye on me  from
behind his blinder, and whenever he sees this motion
of the foot, he thinks I am going to kick him."
"And how long may it be since you began to
drive a coach?"
" I go to school; but I have driven more or less
since I was eight years old."
"But how could you drive a coach when you
were only eight?"
418 
CAPE COD.
" My father began withi lashing me on to the box,
to prevent my falling off-for I couldn't then reach
the footboard-and I drove so."
By this time my interest in James had risen to a
high point, and I afterward learned from others that
this account of himself was strictly true. Should I
ask him to take a cigar with me? Plainly not.
Here was a specimen of "Young America" whose
patriotism evidently did not consist in smoking and
chewing. He talked familiarly with his horses, but
did not swear at them. There was nothing of the
vulgar stage driver about the lad, no taking on of
airs, no slang in his language, no brag.  He had not
even the usual frolic and roguery of his years. He
did not crack his whip-using it only to threaten the
little vagabonds who attempted to climb up on the
rack behind; and there was no laughing in his eyes,
which indicated that he was going to tip the coach
over. His face was that of one who had taken re.
sponsibility upon himself, and felt equal to it. It
beamed with intelligence; but the expression of it
was firm, self-restraining, and even demure. The
impending shadow of a coming man darkened in it
the brightness of the schoolboy. I afterward learned
that, for pluck, the little fellow had not his equal in
all the country round. If, by chance, there was a
horse in the stable that nobody dared drive, he
419 
TO I)IXIE ANI)D THE TROPICS.
would beg his father to let him do it. And, long
before leaving the coach box, I came distinctly to the
conclusion that James-I never should have thought
of calling him Jimmy-by the time he was twentyone years of age, would be "up" for Congress.  For
surely the boy who, at twelve years, can drive a fourin-hand, with a mettlesome "Lizzie" among them,
will, in the course of another ten, be competent to
manage such an ass as the sovereign people.
So, hurrah for the Cape Cod boy, James! He
took me into Orleans in good style, having made his
time to a minute; with "Lizzie" only a little frothy,
but scarcely a wet hair on either "Chandler Bob ".or
"Hunter."
I left the Cape not without a certain feeling of
regret. Perhaps it was because of the termination
of the Indian summer; and I had to exclaim:
"Die schhnen Tage in Aranjuez
Sind nun zu Ende."
And, possibly, the unusually neat and pretty quarters in which I had spent the last night of my journey might have had something to do with it.  The
fact was, that, there being a press of company in the
inn, some kind-hearted lady had surrendered the use
of her apartment for the accommodation of a tired
traveller. Taking note of this on my entrance, I
420 
CAPE COD.
should have been strongly tempted to refuse taking
advantage of such generous hospitality, and have
contented myself with the use of three chairs, or a
sofa, had it not been for the lateness of the hour;
but, under the circhmstances, nothing else could well
be done than to put off my shoes as quickly as possible in such a sanctum-which I accordingly did,
and gave them to the "boots."  And when he had
departed, the mortification of my gallantry at having
taken possession of the room was so great, that I
exclaimed:
"What  a pretty pickle  of codfish  I am  in
now!"
But I endeavored to persuade myself that the fair
occupant was, at least, not a person of tender years;
and seeing a shoe case hanging against the wall, I
asseverated that the shoes in it-of course, I did not
presume to examine them- were certainly a foot
long; and that the hoops which, doubtless, were
standing up in the closet, instead of being, as they
should be, no larger than strawberry baskets when
they first come, had been taken from one of the biggest hogsheads that had ever drifted ashore on the
Cape. These suppositions, to be sure, were very
ungenerous, and would not have much helped to
pacify my mind, had I not happened to notice a few
421 
TO DIXIE AND THE TROPICS.
verses from a newspaper pinned on the wall, the concluding line of which ran as follows:
"As we journey through life, let us live by the way."
This seemed to hit my case pat,. Yes, said I, this
is the true philosophy of life. Especially, let a man
on his travels live as he goes along, and sleep where
he can, giving God thanks first, and next to woman.
So, laying my head on the pillow, I likened myself
to a Mungo Park, succored by the hand of woman in
a strange land, where was none else to help him. I
slept well. And the next morning, on opening my
window toward the east, and seeing the dear Cape
lying stretched out far into the sea, I gave to the
sands my parting benediction-not forgetting the fair
ones who inhabit them, but wishing them all sorts of
good things, down even to plenty of cranberries
wherewith to make their pretty red cheeks still
redder.
THE' END.
422   
N. B.-The new Tax on Books and Stereotyping, and the further advance
in the cost of manufacture, render it necessary to add to the prices in the
annexed Catalogue, viz.:
2.5 cents per volume on 12mrnos.
50 cents per volume on 8vos.
The above addition will be made on the lst of.Jll,  1864.
L IST
OF
CHOICE BOOKS,
PUBLISHED BY
G. P. PUTNAM, 441 Broadway,
Near Howard Street, NEW YORK.
N.  B.-COMPLETION  OF  SETS.-All  persons having in
complete sets of IRVING'S WORKS, HOOD'S  WORKS,  BAY
ARD TAYLOR'S WORKS, or the REBELLION RECORD, are
requested to order immediately the volumes or numbers required.
After a reasonable time the Publisher cannot undertake to furnish
uniform volumes to match sets heretofore supplied.
-      f       -,   v
I 
BOO0KS ARE THE WINDOWS THROUGH WHICH THE
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ROOM WITHOUT WINDOWS.  No MAN HAS A RIGBT TO
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WITH BOOKS, IF HE HAS THE MEANS TO BUY THEM. IT
IS A WRONG TO HIS FAMILY.  HE  CHEATS THEM.
CHILDREN LEARN TO READ BY BEING IN THE PRESENCE
OF BOOKS. THE LOVE OF KNOWLEDGE COMES WITH
READING AND GROWS  UPON IT. AND TIIE LOVE  OF
KNOWLEDGE, IN A YOUNG MIND, IS ALMOST A WARRANT
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LARGER EVERY YEAR, IS AN HONORABLE PART OF A
YOUNG MAN'S HISTORY. IT IS A MAN'S DUTY TO HAVE
BOOKS. A LIBRARY IS NOT A LUXURY, BUT ONE OF TUB
NECESSARIES OF LIFE.-S-. TV. Beec7&er.
NOW READY. PRICE FIVE CENTS, POST FREE.
Suggestions for Household Libraries
Of ESSENTIAL and STANDARD BOOKS, and the most economical mode of
obtaining them. With impartial lists of 250, 500, 1,000, and 1,250 volumes of the best
literature, and the most desirable editions. G. P. PUTNAM, Library Commission
Agency, 441 Broadway, New York.
ALSO NOW READY, SENT POST FREE, FOR 85 CENTS.
G. P. Putnam's Classified General Catalogue
Of the MOST IMPORTANT WORKS in every department of Literature, English
and American editions, with prices annexed. pp. 259. 
Attractive and Standard Books,
PUBLISHED BY
G. P. PUTNAM,  AGT.,
441 BROADWAY, New York.
THE
LIFE AND LETTERS
OF
WASHINGTON IRVING.
BY PIERRE M. IRVING
NVO W COMPLE 7'E IN FOUR VOL UJES.
" 4 delectable book for all time."
SUNNYSIDE EDITION, Uniform with that edition of,rving's
Works, large Izmo, cloth.  4 vols.,...    $6.oo
LARGE PAPER EDITION-(only 250 copies printed)-on laid
Paper, square 8vo, cloth.  4 vols.,....    12.00
LAID PAPER EDITION, uncut.   4 vols.,....    8.oo
Half Calf, extra or antique, large  12mo.   4 vols.,..    I I1.00
THE NATIONAL (Subscribers') EDITION.  Cloth,..    7.00
the same, Half Calf, extra or antique,.   I2.o00
I
rt    k 
Those who are seeking for something particularly attractive and
acceptable, either for LITERARY  OR ARTISTIC MERIT, or as
a choice specimen of American progress in the miechanicalpart'
of book-making, to present to friends at home or in Eirope, or
to adorn their own libraries, are invited to look at
The Artists' Splendid Presentation of
IRVINGS' SKETCH BOOK.
Illustrated with i 23 Designs by Eminent Artists, viz.:
G. L. BROWN,
DARLEY,
ELLIOTT,
SHATTUCK,
HOPPIN,
EHNINGE
ws          M'LEN~
LEAR,         McE~
LUMLEY,
CLINTON,
HfzlN.Essr,Y,
OERTELt,
WILL,
[.GUY,.
LIEU,        MODONOUGH,
MAN,.; ETC., E]TC.
Engraved in the best manner, anrid superbly   t
and bound by MATTHEWS.
Small folio, Levant Morocco, in a box,
A few copies in unique styles,...
This is generally adnmitted to be the FINEST
published.
OTHER ATTRACTIVE GIFT Bo
RIP VAN WINKLE
Illustrated with 1 3 Original Designs by Eminent Asicsts. Ele       gantly Printed. Small Quarto. Engraved Cover. Price,
$1.25.
THE LEGEND OF SLEEPY HOLLOW
Illustrated with IO Original Designs by Eminent Artists. Ele       gantly Printed. Small Quarto. Engraved Cover. Price,
$1. 50
TIHE HUDSON LEGENDS    By WASHINGTON IRVINGC.  (Comprising "Sleepy Hollow" and
Rip Fan Winkle,")  With 23 Original Designs  by Emi       nent Artists. Small Quarto, Cloth, extra, $3.50; Moroc       co, extra, $6.5o.
LEFUTZF,
HUNTINGTON,
HA LL
ErNSF,TT,
GRAY,
HART,
B1ELLO~
CASI
WIi ITIF,
RICIHARDS,
CHAPMAN,
PAARSONS,
]:ERRICK,
R,         ETYNGE,
AN,          BEA'U
NTEE,          COL.
$I5.00
$I 8.OO tO $20.00
A.MERICAN BOOK yet 
WASHINGTON IRVING'S WRITINGS.
ALHAMBRA.
BY WASHINGTON IRVING.
A Residence in the celebrated Moorish palace, the "Alhambra,'
with the historical and romantic legends connected therewith.
POrp R EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo, green cloth,....
TINTED EDrrIoN, Illustrated, cloth, gilt, extra,...
"        "          "   -half calf, antique,...
s"       "          "      half calf, extra,...
"The beautiful Spanish ketch Book, the AlWambra."-W. H. PRESCOTT.
ASTORIA;
or, Anecdotes of an Enterprise beyond the Rocky Mountains.
By WAsHiNGTON IRVING.
"It is a book to put in your library, as an entertaining very well rit.
ten account of savage life on a most extensive scale."-REv. SIDNEY
SmTR. 
This volume describes the flrst great explorations of the Oregon and
adjacent territories, and the foundation of the great wealth of Mr.
John Jacob Astor.
POPULAR EDITION, 12mo, green cloth,....
TNTED EDITION, large 12mo, half calf, extra,...
"        "       "      "   half calf, antique,...
BONNEVILLE'S ADVENTURES.
The Adventures of Capt. Bonneville, U. S. A., in the Rocky
Mountains and the Far West. From his own journals, and
illustrated from other sources. By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 12mo, green cloth,.....
TINTED EDITION, large 12mo, half calf, extra,..
"            "      i."   half calf, antique,...
"t-ull of exciting incident,   *  *  with the power and the charms
-f romance."-CHANCELLOR KENT.
$1.50
2.25
3.00
3.00
I
1.50
3.00
3.00
1.'0
3.00
3'00 
G. P. PUTNAM'S PUBLICATIONS.
BRACEBRiDGE HALL,
or the Humourists.  By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 12mo, green cloth,...          5
TINTED EDITION, Illustrated, large 12mo, gilt, extra, 
"        "          "       half calf, extra....
"        "          "       half calf, antique,..
ILLUSTRATED (large paper) EDITION, 8vo, cloth,          
~~~"           -' "      $ 8vo, gilt edges,.
" "  "       "      8vo, morocco, extra,
"    -"        "        "     8vo, morocco, antique,
"It is very ill-natured, however, to object to what has given Us 80so much
pleaure."-LORD JEFFREY.
CHRONICLES of the CONQUEST of GRANADA.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 12mo, green cloth,....
TINTED EDITION, large 12mo, half calf, antique,..
"        "      "     "   half calf, antique,. 
"It has superseded all feurt7er necessity for poetry, and, unfortunatety
for me, for history."-W. H. PRESCOTT.
COLUMBUS AND HIS COMPANIONS.
The Life and Voyages of Christopher Columbus. to which are
added those of his Companions. By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 3 vols., 12mo, green cloth,..
TINTED EDITION, Illustrated, 3 vols., large 12mo, half calf ant.,
" "           "         "      "      "    half calf, extra,
OCTAVO EDITION, Illustrated, 3 vols., 8vo, cloth, extra,..
"                     " "   "      8vo, half calf, extra,.
"    ""           "     8vo, half calf, antique,.
"         "           "        "     8vo, full calf, extra,.
"In treating this happy and splenedid sabjet, SIr. Irving has brought
out the full force of his genius."-ALEX. I. EVERETT.
"Tle noblest monument to the memory of Columnbus."-W. H. PRESCOTT.
"It will supersede all other works on the subject, and never be itself s84
persedeed."-LORD JEFFRPEY.
CRAYON MISCELLANY.
Comprising a Tour on the Western Prairies; Abbottsford and
Sir Walter Scott, and Newstead Abbey and Lord Byron.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo.........
TINTED EDITION, large 12mo, half calf, antique,.
"       "      "    "   half calf, extra,.....
$1.50
2.50
3.00
3.00
3.50
4.00
6.50
6.50
1.50
3.00
3.00
4.50
8.00
8.00
10.50
15.00
15.00
18.00
1.50
3.00
3.00 
G. P. PUTNAI'S PUBLICATIONb.
DIEDRICH KNICKERBOCKER S
HISTORY OF NEW YORK, from the beginning of the World
to the end of the Dutch Dynasty: Containing, among many
surprising and curious matters, the Unutterable Ponderings
of Walter the Doubter; the Disastrous Projects of William
the Testy; and the Chivalric Achievements of Peter the
HIeadstrong —the Three Dutch Governors of New Amster  dam;  being the only Authentic History of the Times that
ever hath been or ever will be published.  [By WAsHINGTOx
IRVING.]
POPULI,AR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo,.....
TINTED EDITION, withl Plates and Cuts, large 12mo, gilt, extra,
"4; ~ ~ ~~ "44   it            5  4,"  half calf, extra,
"        Ad  "                             "   half calf, ant.,
ILLUSTRATED (large paper) EDITION, 8vo, cloth,...
"             "   "          "      mor., extra,..
"       "     "        "       "   mor., antique,.
"..".      "     "   "   calf, antique, red edges
I The mod erelmlentlyjocose History of 3'ew York.  *  *  * Our ides
have been absolutely sore wit, laugting."-SIp WALTER SbCan.
"A book of nwearying pleasantry."-EDWARD EVERET.
{ The mostelaboratepiece of humor in our literature'-H. T. TUCEERM&N.
"M anly, bold, and so altogether original, without being extravagant, a
to sta  alone among te labors ofmne."-BLACEwoon's MAGAzNL
I
I
MAHOMET  AND  HIS SUCCESSORS.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 2 vok, 12mo, green cloth,..  I
TINTED EDIrION, EXTRA PLATES, 2 Vo1S., half calf, extra,.
.... "                "      "  14    half calf, antique,
OLIVER GOLDSMITH: a BIOGRAPHY.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo, green cloth,..
TINTED EDrrION, Illustrated, large 12mo, gilt, extra,. 
" 9       "         "             "       half calf, antique,
"         "         "             "       half calf, extra,
g have read no biographical work which carriesforward the reader o80
delightfully. * * I know of nothing like it."-WM. CULLEN BTRYANT.
$1.50
2.50
3.00
3.00
3.50
6.50
6.50
6.50
5
3.00
5.50
5.50
1.5)
2.50
3.oo
3.00 
G. P. PUTNAM'S PUBLICATIONS.
SALMAGUNDI.
By WILLIAM IRVING, JAMES K. PAULDING, and WASHING    TON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo, green cloth,...
TINTED EDITION, 1 vol., large 12mo, green cloth,...
is,"      "         "  "   half calf, extra,..
-  is      "      "1    I $         half calf, antique,.
LARGE PAPER EDITION, 8vo, morocco, extra,.....
"1     As       "      1"  morocco, antique,...
"'IFull of entertainment, with an infinite variety of c7aracters anda cir   cumstances, and wvit  that amiable, good-natured wit andpathos,"
&c.-PR. IL DANA.
SKETCH BOOK
OF GEOFFREY CRAYON, GENT.
By WVASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo, green cloth,...
TINTED EDITION, with Woodcuts, cloth gilt, extra,..
"1        "          "       I half calf, antique,..
91  I        "11 ~ 11    half calf, extra,..
[     - SEE the Artist's Edition of the Sketch Book.]
"It is positively beautifitl."-SIR WALTER SCOTT.
"T tis exquisite miscellany."-J. G. LOCKIIART.
TALES OF A TRAVELLER.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo, green cloth,....
TINTED EDITION, large 12mo, with cuts, gilt, extra,'.
"       "       "      "   half calf, antique,..
(   "       "      "   half calf, extra,..
ILLUSTRATED (large paper) EDITION, 8vo, cloth, extra,.
"      "     "        "      8vo, morocco, extra,
I"           "       "        "  8vo, morocco, antique,
WOLFERT'S ROOST.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
POPULAR EDITION, 1 vol., 12mo, green cloth,..
TINTED EDITION, large 12mo, gilt, extra,...
"        "      "      "   half calf, extra,..
"          "4   "    "    half calf, antique,..
"We envy those wako read these tales and sketches of character for the
jlrst time."-WESTMINSTER REVIEW.
$1.50
1.75
3.00
3.00
6.00
6.00
1.50
2.50
3.00
3.00
1.50
2.50
3.00
3.00
3.50
6.50
6.50
1.50
2.50
3.00
3.03 
G. P. PUTNAM'S PUBLICATIONS.
WASHINGTON IRVING'S WHOLE WORKS,
Including LIFE OF WVASHINGTON, SALM-AGUNDI, and all the
Miscellaneous Writings.
Complete in Twenty-two Volumes, 12mo.
SUNNYSIDE EDITION, Tinted Paper, with Vignettes,
(a) 22 vols., 12mo, extra cloth,                                      3
(b)   "         "    extra sheep, [white,] 
(c)         "   "    half calf, plain,..
(d)   "         "    half calf, extra,..
(e)    "        "    half calf, antique,
(f)   "         "    half morocco, gilt edges,
(g)    "        "    full calf, extra,..
(A)    "        "    full calf, antique,..
(i)    "  -"    full morocco, extra,.
WASHINGTON IRVnG'S WRITINGS, exclusive of "WASHINGTON"
and including "SALMAGUNDI."   Complete in 17 Volumes.
(k) SUNNYSIDE EDITION, cloth, extra......
(1)      "          "     half calf; plain,.....
(m)'"          "     half calf, antique,....
(n)     "           "     half calf, extra,.....
(o)      "          "      full calf, extra........
I ceannot hesitate to predict for him a deathless renown. * * He
whose works were the delight of our fathers and are still ours, will
be read with the same pleasure by those who come after u8." —Wm
CULLEN BRYANT.
WASHINGTON IRVINCG'S WRITINGS, NATIONAL EDrrITION.   Illus
trated. On superfine tinted paper.
This edition is printed onlyfor Subscribers.
Complete in Twenty-two vols., extra black cloth, bevelled edges.
** These may be subscribed for to be delivered monthly or
oftener, for $1.75 per vol.
(p) A Complete Set,......
(q) The Same Fdlition, cloth, uncut,.
(r)        "      "    extra green cloth, cut edges, not bevelled,
(s)        "      "    half calf, extra......
(t)        "       "    half calf, antique,......
WASHINGTON IRVING'S WRIITINGS, with his LIFE AND LrrEs.
Beautifully Printed, and mostly Illustrated. LARGE PAPER
EDITION.  Twenty-six volumes.  8vo, Folded and coil.,
Cloth, gt. tops........
The same, in half calf, extra,......
in half morocco, gt. tops,.....
"     in full morocco, extra,......
*** Early application should be made for these, as only 100 sets are printed,
and no more will be done in this style.
. $33.00
47.00
.    55.00
60.00
. 60.00
65.00
. 70.00
. 75.00
i
25.50
40.00
44.00
44.00
48.00
87.00
37.00
37.00
65.00
65.00
86.00
92.00
140.00
145.00
.175.00 
G. P. PUTNAM'S PUBLICATIONS.
WASHINGTON.
THE LIFE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.
"His Life of Washington is a marvel."-GEo. BANCROFT.
I. POPULAR EDITION, 5 vols., 12mo, green cloth,...
~"   "'"    12mo, sheep, extra,. 
IL SUNNYSIDE EDITION, with plates, 5 vols., 12mo, cloth,..
"             "         "        "    12mo, half calf, extra,
"    "           "         "        " 12mo, half calf, ant.,
"             "         "'   12mo, hf. mor., gt. ed.,
~~~~"  "     "         "   12mo, full calf, extra,
"          ". "                 "   12mo, full mor. gt. ed.,
III. UNION EDITION, steel plates, 5 vols., small 8vo, cloth, uncut,
"                     "       " "    "    "   hf. cf., extra,
"         "      a             "         "      "   hf. cf., ant.,
"         "          "     "-        "    "  full cf., ext.,
'"    "              "         "     "    "  full mor.ex.,
IV.  LIBRARY EDITION, octavo, 5 vols., cloth,....
"1        4'           "  "'      sheep,...
'      "        " "'4      half calf, antique,..
'". " -4       half calf, extra,..
V. MOUNT VERNON EDITION, 100 Steel Plates and 40 Wood Cuts,
on  tinted paper.    A  new  and superb  edition.   5 vols.,
square 8vo, cloth,..
half calf, extra,. 
half calf, antique,. 
half morocco, gilt tops,
full calf, extra,. 
full morocco, gilt edges,
full morocco, gilt, extra,
VI. ILLUSTRATED (large paper) EDITION, 5 vols., royal 8vo, half
_ 1, Ad__J:!
antique......
half calf., extra,
full mor., extra,
*** In this edition the pages are enclosed in lines.
VII. AMATEURS' (Quarto) EDITION, with 102 Steel Plates, proofs
on India Paper, 5 vols., quarto, morocco, extra,..  110.00
*  Of this superb edition only 110 were printed, and but 3 copies remain unsold
AN EDITION FOR CANVASSERS is also printed in ONE  large
volume, double columns, with Twenty Steel Plates. Price,
$5, in cloth.   Also, in Twenty-Six Numbers, with Fifty        Two Plates.  Price, 25 cents per number-maki'sg two hand        some volumes.  Price.......,.      - 7.50
$7.40
8' 50
8'00
13.50
13.50
15.00
16-00
17.00
8.50
15.00
15.00
16.00
18.00'
10.00
12.50
16.00
16.00
17.50
26.00
2 6" 00
26.00
28.00
30.00
30.00
30.00
30.00
36.00 
G. P. PUTNA-I'S PUBLICrATIONS.
WASHINGTON ILLUSTRATIONS.
Comprising 102 Steel Plates, Proof-impressions on India Pa       per, including 70 Portraits of eminent men of the Revolu       tion, and 30 Historical Scenes by Darley, Trumbull, &c.
Quarto, in portfolio,..........
Any Plate may be had separately, price..4
WASHINGTON ILLUSTRATIONs to match the 8vo edition, I voi., cloth,
BAYARD TAYLOR'S WRITINGS.
" There is no romanace to us quite equal to one of Bayard Taylor's books
of travel."-HARTFORD IE PUBLICAN.
ELDORADO;
OR, ADVENTURES IN THE PATII OF EMPIRE, (Mexico and
California.)
12mo, cloth,..............
CENTRAL AFRICA;
LIFE AND LANDSCAPE FROM CAIRO TO THE WHITE NILE.
Two plates and cuts, 12mo,.....
GREECE and RUSSIA;
WITH AN EXCURSION TO CRETE.
Two plates, 12mo,...
HOME and ABROAD;
A SKETCH BOOK OF LIFE, SCENERY, AND MEN.
Two plates, 12mo, cloth,....
HOME and ABOAD  (Second Series.)
A new volume, just published, (1862.)
Two plates, 12mo, cloth,...........
INDIA, CHINA, and JAPAN.
Two plates, 12mo. cloth,....
$25-00
i4O
6.00
$1.50
i
I
a
11.50
1.50
1.50
i.'50
.             1.50 
G. P. PUTNAM'S PUBLICATIONS
BAYARD TAYLOR'S WRITINGS-Continued.
LANDS OF THE SARACEN;
Or, PICTURES OF PALESTINE, ASIA MINOR, SICILY, AND SPAIN.
With two plates, 12mo, cloth,........
NORTHERN TRAVEL;
SUIMER A-ND WINTER PICTURES OF SWEDEN, DENMARK, AND
LAPLAND.
Two plates, 12mo, cloth,.............
VIEWS A-FOOT;
OR, EUROPE SEEN WITH KNAPSACK AND STAFF.
12mo,........
HANNAH THURSTON:
A STORY OF AMERICAN LIFE,.
BAYARD TAYLOR'S TRAVELS.
POPULAR EDIrTION, complete in 9 vols., 12mo, cloth, extra,
c,, "        "   "    sheep, extra,
1"    " 1           " 1      "         " I: half calf, extra,
~"'; " ~ "      "         "    half calf, ant.,
BAYARD TAYLOR'S PROSE WRITINGS.
CAXTON EDITION, printed for subscribers. In 10 vols., on
tinted paper.   Issued monthily.   Price, per vol.,..
The volumes are issued as follows:
I. HOME AND ABROAD.
II. VIEWS A-FOOT.
III. HOME AND ABROAD.  SECOND SERIES.
IV. ELDORADO.
V. CENTRAL AFRICA.
VI. LANDS OF THE SARACEN.
VII. INDIA, CHINA, AND JAPAN.
VIII. NORTHERN TRAVEL.
IX. GREECE AND RUSSIA.
X. HANNAH THURSTON.
$1.50
1.50
1.50
1.50
13.50
15.50
22.50
22.50
1.75 
G. P. PUI'NAM'S PUBLICATIONS.
A4 Magnlfcent and Faluable Work.
THE ARCHITECTURAL INSTRUCTOR
Containing a History of Architecture from the Earliest Ages
Present Time; illustrated with nearly 250 Engravings of A
Medisaeval, and Modern Cities, Temples, Palaces, Cathedra
Monuments;  also, the Greek and Early Roman Classic
their principles and beauties; with a large number of C
Designs of Cottages, Villas, and Mansions of different sizes,
panted with practical observations on Construction, with
important details, on a scale sufficiently large and definite to
the Builder to execute with accuracy;  and further Des
Churches, Monuments, and Public Buildings; together
Glossary of Architectural Terms; the whole being the re
more than Thirty Years' Professional Experience.   By 
LAFEVER, Architect.
1 vol., large quarto, half morocco, gilt tops,..
*** This handsome volume is, probably, the most comprehensive single
olumne oon architecture ever ptublished-embracing a full History
ofArchitecture from the earliest times, and also a complete treatise
on its theory and practice, with designs for modern houses, public
buildings, churches, &c.'t should be in every good library for
general reference, as well as in the hands of every architect.  JIfr.
Lafever was one of the most eminent and thorough architects in the
country.
AMERICAN HISTORICAL AND LITERARY CURIOSITIES;
Consisting of Facsimiles of Original Documents  relating to
the Events of the Revolution, &c., &c., with a variety of
Reliques, Antiquities, and Modern Autographs. Collected
and Edited by JOHN JAY SMITH and JOHN F. WATSON.
Sixth edition, with improvements and additions.
Large quarto, cloth, gilt tops,...........               8.00
"      "   half morocco, gilt edges,....        10.00
A SECOND SERIES (COMPLETE IN ITSELF) OF
American Historical and Literary Curiosities;
Consisting of Facsimiles relating to Columbus, and Original
Documents of the Revolution, with Reliques, Autographs,
&c.  Edited by JOHN JAY SMITH.
Quarto, cloth,
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WASHINGTON PORTRAITS.
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