FLORAL HOME;
OR,
FIRST YEARS OF MINNESOTA.
EARLY SKETCHES, LATER SETTLEMENTS,
AND
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS
BY HARRIET E. BISHOP.
NEW YORK:SHELDON, BLAKEMAN AND  COMPANY,
No. 115 NASSAU STREET.
C H I C A G 0:
S. C. GR CHICAGO MPANY.
S. C. GRIGGS AND COMPANY.
1857. 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 185T, by
SHIIELDON, BLAKEMAN & COMPANY,
in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the United States, for the
Southern District of New York.
ra 
TO
HONORABLE ALEXANDER RAMSAY,
FIRST GOVERNOR OF MINNESOTA,
WHOSE SAFE COUNSEL, JUDICIOUS AIMS, AND PRUDENT USE
OF
EXECUTIVE POWER,
ARE THE CORNER STONE OF ITS PROSPERITY,
Ellis   D)lllt
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY ITS
AUTH OR.
717f 7(0
0 
0 
PREFACE.
THIS work has been prepared at the urgent solicitation
of friends, and is designed to exhibit the rise and progress
of Minnesota; what it was and what it has become; the
rapid development of its resources; when, how and by
whom the foundations of an unparalleled prosperity were
laid; and to rescue from oblivion facts which might be
unchronicled by the future historian.
In this volume the aim has been to present the reader
with a truthful picture, so far as words can be signs of
ideas, of the beauties and rare advantages of this Floral
Territory. And the most important object of its publi
cation will be secured if men and women of sterling worth,
are, by it, induced to identify themselves with the interests of this youthful empire, and labo r to make it the
first state in our glorious Union.
[8]
e 
I 
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
A Peep at the Past-The Northwest as it Was,
CHAPTER II.
The St. Peter's River-Early Explorers-Menrard-His Death-Suffer ings of early Explorers.-Claude Allong-Louis Hennapin-Falls of
St. Anthony,- -.-.-.-.-.-. —-                                  20
CHAPTER III.
Jonathan Carver-The Cave-Foresight of Carver, and his Influence
with the Dakotas —Dr. Hartwell Carver,    -        -   -   - 24
CHAPTER IV.
Early Trading Posts-Win. Morrison-Lake Itasca not the Source of the
Mississippi-Gen. Pike and the Sioux Purchase-Joseph Renville-His
Marriage-Dr. Williamson-Louis Provenialle —Mr. Farribault-The
Swiss Emiigrant's Death-bed, -   - -     - - - -             27
CHAPTER V.
Fort Snelling-Col. Leavenworth-First American Woman to Tread this
Soil-First Marriage-Col. Snelling-Mrs. Snelling-Her Trip to the
New Fort-Incidents after Arrival-Improvements at St. Anthony's
Falls-Annual  Flat-Boat-The  Captive  Children-Mrs.  Snelling's
Christian Character-Chase for the Wolf-The First Steamer-Surprise
of the Whites, and Alarm of the Natives-Further Additions to
Society, -... --- - - - - - -                     - -32
CHAPTER VI.
Col. Snelling leaves to visit Friends in the East-Incidents and Hardships
-Final Return to the Fort-An old Indian-Mrs. Snelling's Visit to
Minnesota in 1851,    - -       -   -   -   -   -    -   - 38
CHAPTER VII.
Franklin Steele-The Country as he Found it in 1837-Commencement
of Lumbering Interests-Price of Supplies-Mission at Koposia                                                [71
0
- 17 
CONTENTS.
Mrs. Holton, the first Citizen Woman-Dr. Carlie-Mr. lHone-Anson
No,rthup Settles at St. Croix Falls in 1839. —The Marine Mill Built
-Endurance and Virtues of Mirs. Northup-Laurels worn by other&Duties of Womenl iD] New Settlements, and their importance,       - 43
CHAPTER VIII.
Nucleus of St. Paul-Its original Name, " Pig's Eye," whence Derived Advice when coming West-Information  Imparted-Old Catholic
Chapel-Iimprovenents Comumenced by Henry Jackson in 1841-His
Arrival with his Wife-Their First Night-Erection of a Cabin-Its
Gradual Change-In 1842 John R. Irvine claims "Ripper Town," Isolated Society-L(ove of Western Homes-A. L. Larpenteur-Louis
Robear-Life a Reality,....   --        -        --      -    47
CHAPTER IX.
Why I Came to St. Paul-Answered in a Letter of Dr.  Williamnson —
Opposition of Friends-Cheerfulness in the Decision. -    -    -  52
CHAPTER X.
Review of the Book of Providence-Palmyra —Prcservation finom  Ship wreck on Lake Erie-Friends Prepared by the Way-The  Journey
-Mrs. Dr. Jones,  -    -    -    -    -    -    -    -    -  56
CHAPTER XI.
The Last Good-by —Fascinatiots of Nature-Galena-Dubuque-Bold
Scenery-Prairie du Chien-Items by the Way-Arrival at Kaposia Rush of the Indians-Reception by the Missionaries-Kissing the
Pappooses-Presentation to the Chief and others-Dreams of Childhood
Realized-Native Prayer-meeting-Stroll through the Village-Early
Indian Friends-Little Crow,    -   -   -   -   -     --  59
CHAPTER XII.
First Sabbath-Game of Ball-Religious Services-Rejoicing inll Dark ness-Nature's Charnms,    -   -   -   -   -   -   -   -  64
CHAPTER XIII.
First Canoe Ride-Its Noveltyv-Landing in St. Paul —The Scene
Changed-The Town as it Was-Kindness of the Frontier-Red
River train,  -. - -    - - - - - - -67
CHAPTER XIV.
Indian Character as in Books Incorrect-Their Habits-Trials of Mission aries-A Favorite with the Band-Their Attentions-The  Hunt Danger of the Missionary's Son; his Rescue-Dr. Williamson-Why
he entered the Missionary Field, -  -.. - - -          - -       71
8 
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XV.
The Indian Dead-Mourning-A Walk to the Deposit of the Dead A Wanton Act,  - -                                        - 75
CHAPTER XVI.
Canoe Ride to Red Rock-Frontier Welcome-Musketoes-Red Rock
Prairie-The Grove Meeting-Emotions Awakened-Homeward Bound
-Sea Sickness —A Ludicrous Position,    -     -   -   -   -  78
CHAPTER XVII.
Greetings of the Morning Steamer-Morning of Joyful Hope-The Mud Walled Hovels, and the Woik to be Performed-Appearance of the
Room, and its Duties —The Picture Reversed-Foundation of Educa tional Interests laid-Substitute for Society,    -  - - -    -  82
CHAPTER XVIII.
The first Sabbath-school-Its Organization —Dea. Cavender-Division of
the School in 1850-Fourth of July, 1856, -       -.- -           85
CHAPTER XIX.
Indian Dance-Breaking Up of their Revelry-The Boy Dancers,-  90
CHAPTER XX.
Novelty of Frontier Life-A Morning Call-Offer of Marriage —A Par  allel Case, -   -   -   -..                 -      -   -  93
CHAPTER XXI.
The Sacred Tree-A Heart-sickening Scene-Increase of population "St. Paul House," kept by J. W. Bass-Dr. Dewey-The Sabbath, 98
CHAPTER XXII.
The Winter-Origin and Organization of the "Circle of Industry "
Efforts to Build a School-house-Its Completion-Illness of the Teacher
-Sick Couch in a Canoe-Stillwater-Miss Hosford-School Lands Other Teachers, -    -.-           -                         - 101
CHAPTER XXIII.
Rum's doings-First Ride to St. Anthony's Falls-Incident by the Way
-Log Cabin, and Its Inmates-Murders-Dreadful Death-Temper  ance Society Organized-Efforts to Decdy-Partial Success-Sons of
Temperance-Maine Law-The Vote and Victory-Repeal,   -  105
1*
9 
COXTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIV
First Religious Movemer ts-Religious Destitution-Duties of the Writer
-Reinforcements-F rst Prayer-Meeting-First Church Organization
-Correspondence wit i Dr. Hill-Appointment of a Baptist Missionary
-Sundering Ties-D ath of Mr. Parsons —Emnbarrassments of the
Baptist Church-Rev. T. R. Cressey, succeeded by Rev. A. M. Torbet
-Estimate of the Inmportance of the Field-Associations-Biographi -cal Sketch of the Rev. Joshua Bradley, -   -   -   -   - 112
CHAPTER XXV.
Visit of Mr. Neill, and his Appointment —Lecture-room was Burned —
Preshyterian Churches Organized —New Church Edifices —Episcopal
Mission —German Church-Swede Church —Indebtedness to the Home
Mission Boards-New England Spirit Prevalent —Institutions of
Learning,  -    -    -    -   -    -   -    -   -   -    - 120
CHAPTER XXVI.
Wisconsin a State-Desire of the People-Mass Meeting, and its Results
— Alexander Ramsey first Governor-Rush of Immigration-Improve ments at Work-James M. Goodhue, and The Pioneer-Gov. Gor man, - - - - - - -                          -       --  124
CHAPTER XXVII.
Climate-Birth of Flowers-Soil-Spring-Plowing-Autumn the Crown ing Season-Captain Pope's Opinion,       - -   -   -   -   - 129
CHAPTER XXVIII.
St. Croix Valley-First Farmers-Raising Corn-Wheat-Oats and other
Grains-Labor, -   -   -   - -         -   -   -   -   -- 133
CHAPTER XXIX.
Making Claims-Claim Making Experience Embodied in a Letter of a
Friend,                       -                       I- — 137
CHAPTER XXX.
Wild Fruits —Wild Rice-Game-Fertility of the Soil-Pure Atmosphere
-Increase of Population-Poem by Mrs. Sigourney,      -   - 144
CHAPTER XXX1
Lake Minnetonka,-Mr. Owen's Visit there-Lines6 to Minnesota, - 148
CHAPTER XXXII.
A Ride Proposed-The Towf we Leave-Scenery-Groveland Garden Cheever's Tower-St. Anthony-Contrast with my First Visit-Work inigs of Improvement-The Island-Suspension Bridge-Minneapolis
10 
CONTENTS.
Lakes Calhoun and Harriet, and Lake of the Isles-Our Repast-A
Stroll and Row-A Cabin and Wood Nymph-Minnehaha Falls —Poem
of Rev. Dr. Phelps-Drive to the Fort-Cemetery-Morgan's BluffReminiscence of my first Visit to the Fort-Captain Eastman and
Wife-Doctor Turner and Wife-Minnesota Riyer-An Adventure —
Mendota-Visit to the Cave,   -   -   -          -   -   -  151
CHAPTER XXXIII.
St. Paul-Its Growth and Prosperity-Newspapers —Gas Works-Ware houses-Lawyers and Doctors,      ---- - - - --  -   - - 163
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Stranger's Funeral-Young Men's Christian Association-Historical
Society-" Whitney's Daguerrean Gallery "-M. C. Tuttle,    - 169
CHAPTER XXXV.
A  Stranger's Opinion of St. Paul-Company on Board a Mississippi
Steamer-Steamboat Arrivals-Average Period of Arrival and Depart ure-Lake  Pepin  retarding  Navigation-Chopping  Through  the
Lake,-    -    -.-..-.-           -     -    -    -    -      - 172
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Stillwater the Oldest Town-St.  Croix-Prescott-Point Douglass
Hudson-The Grave on a High Bluff, -    -   -   -   -   -  179
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Visit to St. Croix Falls-Wild Scenery-After Visit in  Summer Enchantmuent of the Scenery-Exciting Skiff Ride-A Circumstance
related by Captain Smith-Wildwood Cottage-Exciting Murderous
Scenes-Pleasant close of the Visit and Skiff Ride to Stillwater-A
Scene in the Street, and its Cause-Wildwood Cottage in Mourning Death of Judge Perkins-Reflections,     -   -   -.    - 182
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
St. Anthony's Falls-First Visit there —First Cabin-Falls Islands-Poem
by Rev. S. W. Pond, -    - I.-   -   -   -   -   -   -  191
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Former State of the Region around St. Anthony-Rise of Property  St. Anthony the Second City in the Territory-University-Steamers
built here-Advantages for Bridging-West Shore-Thrilling Adven ture of a Young Lady-Peril of the Writer,   -   -   -   - 199
CHAPTER XL.
Minneapolis-The Old Mill-Col. John H. Stephens-His Lecture before
the Lyceum-Military Reserve-First Court West of the River-Right
of Preemption,                        -.                -  0
11 
CONTI'ENTS.
CHAPTER XLI.
The West, where is it?-Enchanting Scenery-Change in the River
Scenery,  -   --- -   -   -   -   -   -   -   - 212
CHAPTER XLII.
The Bluffs —An Ascent —A Beautiful Idea-Lake Pepin-Maiden's Rock
or Lover's Leap-Winona-Her  untimely  Death-Her  Father's
Death —Her Lover's Conversion,  -.  -. - - - -              217
CHAPTER XLIII.
Upper Mississippi Sceniery —The "Excursion Party,"
CHAPTER XLIV.
Wabashaw Prairie-Difficulties Concerning the Winnebago Treaty-Wa bashaw Prairie in 1856-Winona in 1852-Winona in 1856-Hastings Visit to Hastings —The Baptist Church-Return —A Pick-pocket —
The Smile of Progress-Koposia, -    -        - -.-    226
CHAPTER XLV.
Scenery above St. Anthony's Falls-Agricultural Resources-Timber Towns-Manomin-Saut Rapids-' Minnie Mary Lee"-St. Cloude Waterville-Forest City-Hutchinson-Fort Ripley-Long Prairie Bell Prairie-Pemibina,    - -... - - - - 234
CHAPTER XLVI.
Pembina Hunters-White Traders-James Tanner-Elijah Terry and
his Consecration to the Missionary Work, and Tragical Death —Trag ical Death of Mrs. Spencer,    - -. -       - - -         238
CHAPTER XLVII.
Natural Thoroughfares —First Efforts at the Head of Lake Superior Advance  of Settlements-Government  Road-Railroad-Superii(r
City-Mineral Wealth of Minnesota-Salt Region,.   -   - 242
CHAPTER XLVIII.
Red River Caravans-A Novel Garment-A Great Fright-Rehearsals of
Adventures-Bishop of Oregon-Kit Carson-Mr. Goodale and his
Adventures and Escapes,  -      -   -    -   - - -   246
CHAPTER XLIX.
Cameron —Milnor and his Adventures, -
CHAPTER L.
The Indians-Government Policy in Reference to them-Efforts by
12
- 221
- 250 
CONTENTS.
Missionaries-Annual Meeting-Indians Opposed to Education-Old
Shakopee's Speeches-Strolls among their Teepees, and Degradation
there-A Little Sioux Girl-General Character of the Indian,  - 253
CHAPTER LI.
Story of the Wakan Man-The Young Indian Heroine-Attachments of
the Indian Women-Wrong and Suicide of a Young Woman, - 263
CHAPTER LII.
The Indian a theme for Admiration-Music, and its Power over Iim The Dandy-Old Hock-e-wash-ta, and his Abrupt Entrance into the
Baptist Church-Murder of Mrs. Keener-Murder of a Little Chip pewa Girl-Propensity for Eating,-   -   -   -   -   - 268
CHAPTER LIII.
The Winnebagoes; their Removal-Baptiste.
CHAPTER LIV.
The Chippewas and their Language-The Queen-Hole-in-the-Day Feud between the Sioux and Chippewas-Depredations and Murders Massacre on Apple River-Scalp Dance-Excitement Prevailing Governor Ramsey Demands a Treaty —Assemblage of the Tribes —
Delay-Final Arrival-Indignity of the Sioux-Courteous Manner of
Hole-in-the-Day-His Speech-The Treaty-Hostilities Resumed His Instincts.-... 274
CHAPTER LV.
Explorations of the Minnesota River —First, Second, and Third Enterprises
-The Yankee's Trip-Importance of these Explorations, -    - 281
CHAPTER LVI..
Treaty Proposed-Red Man's Opposition-Their Removal-Exploring
Trip of the West Newton-Our Company-High Water-Advance of
Civilization-First  Landing  Place-Impressions  Received-Lake
Frances-Miss Hobbs, afterwards Mrs. Owen-Paper  Towns-Le
Sour-Traverse-Rev. Mr. Hopkins and his Death-Mankato-New
Waters-Region of Silence-Little  Rock-Trader and Family Arrival at our Destination-The Lone Indian-Natural Parks, and
Glorious Scenery-Reflections-The  Tiger's Approach-Wandering
Nations-"All Aboard"-Cameron' s Grave-Excitement-Dangers to
the Boat-Shockiiig affair at Traverse,                     288
CHAPTER LVII.
Visit of Dr. Hill to the Territory-Trip through the Minnesota Valley
by Land, and its many Incidents-St. Peter's, and its Character and
Enterprize-Going Home-The Big Woods-Our Hotel in the Woods
-Romps amid Bush and Brakes-The Family —Wood  Nymph Lost-Lame Horse-Last Incident, -  301
13
- 272
0 
14                          CONTENTS.
CHAPTER LVIII.
Southern Minnesota-Rev. T. R. Cressey-Missionary in this Field Soil-Inland Towns-Progress Here as Elsewhere-Earth's Eden The Panorama-God loves Beauty-The Prospective,          -   -  313
CHAPTER LIX.
Distance Annihilated-Advantages and Disadvantages-A Stage-coach
Story-Robbery,  -.    -.         ------ 317
CHAPTER LX.
Love of Frontier Life-A Large Purchase-Change of the Mode of Life
-Frontier Housekeeping-Arrangements for Cooking —Gradual Change
-Relish of Wild Scenes-Love for Minnesota, -   -   -    - 320
CHAPTER LXI.
Stranger's Inquiry-Recognition of an old Friend-Minnesota in General
-Hlasty Marriage-Death of Miss Chase, and the Savor of her Piety Importance of the Board of National Popular Education,  -    - 323
CHAPTER LXII.
Extract from a New Year's Sermon of Rev. A. M. Torbe-Prosperity
of Minnesota, -....333
CLAPTER LXIII.
Conclusion,     ---..,                                          340
w* 
SKETCHES.
0
EARLY  
CHAPTER I.
A PEEP AT TH]E PAST.
ItAD the same Providence which wafted the Mayflower
to Plymouth Rock directed its course into the Gulf of
Mexico, and thence up the windings of the Mississippi,
into the regions of vast prairies and natural gardens, the
forests of New England would be still standing, aind no
cities, mighty in influence, would have risen from their
fall.  The red man would still lurk in the dark recesses
of those forests, pursuing his game without fear of molestation; and the smoke of his wigwam and council fires
would ascend from the ground where his fathers had
dwelt and held their council.
Obviously, Providence shaped the means, and the work
to be accomplished, though centuries were consumed il
man's "rough hewing." The energy and enterprise,
born and nurtured on that sterile soil, have n.o parallel
in the world's history; and for their full development,
they have pushed on towards the setting sun, and diffused
themselves over the "unshorn gardens of the wilderness,"
while the grand drama of city building wais cnacting
upon the Atlantic coast. There, side by side, arose the
church and school-house, and with them men of giant
mind, who thrilled the nation with their eloquence. The
power of the Press was acknowledged, and the savage
was either subdued, or retreated before the light of advancing civilization.
For centuries,'the mighty Northwest smiled in unpraised beauty-a befitting field for the enjoyment of 
MININESOTA AS IT WAS.
celestial beings.  The fairest portion of all this beautiful earth has no historic lore, save in some remaining
monumoi ental antiquities.  The Red Alan remained undisputed and undisturbed owner of the soil. His light
canoe skimmed the sirface of crystal lakes, glittering inll
the sun's rays, and radiant with reflected floral beauty.
The dancing streamlet sweetly harmonized with the gentle breeze and the wood-birdi's r(,tes.  The graceful swvan
arched her white neck, the queen of the waters, as she
floated fearlessly along.  Flowers breathed forth their
odors where there was none to admire, and trees of a
hundred years grew old and died on the mysterious
mounds
" That overlook the rivers, or that rise
In the dim forest."
"The encircling vastness stretched
Like airy undulations far away,
As if the ocean in her gentlest swell
Stood still, with all her boundless billows fixed
And motionless for ever."
Over these the buffalo roamed in herds that
"Shook the earth with thundering steps,"
marking a trail to guide the future explorations and surveys of the white man.  The untutored savage heard the
voice of the Great Spirit in the moaning winds and the
deep-toned thunders. Ile paused from the pursuit of
game to render homage to the "wakan" that intercepted
his path. The awful war-whoop resounded o'er the bluffs
as he pursued his long hated enemy. The reeking scalp
was exhibited in the horrid war-dance, and the captive
18 
A PEEP AT TIIE PAST.
was tortured in the most cruel manner that savage malice
and hate could devise.
But in the great plans and purposes of JEHOvAIh, a
moral dawn appears.  The march of empire is westward.
On, on it rushes, till the inventive genius of the immnortal
Fulton has pushed it beyond the Great Lakes; andcl the
wild beasts of the prairie, with the red man, have fled
the approach of steam.  The iron horse, more mighty
than Bucephalus, is neighing far, far beyond, and making
the widely-separated Atlantic and Mississippi to meet.
Men, indeed, "run to and fro, and knowledge is everywhere increased." Richness and beauty increase as wv,e
approach the interior-as we stand upon the banks of
earth's noblest stream, surrounded by the flowery plains,
the rich, undulating prairies and natural parks of Ainnesota, the E1 Dorado of the world.  In the first gush of
enthusiasm we exclaim "Eureka! Eureka!"
~
- I
EMIOGANT TRAIN CROSSING        PRAIRID.
19 
CHAPTER II.
FIRST EXPLORATIONS.
THE river which gives name to the beautiful territory
of Minnesota, was discovered by La Seur, a Frenchmaln,
in 1760. It was known to the world as the St. Peter's,
until in 1852, when it was " Resolved by the Senate and
House of Representatives, that from and after the passage
of this act, the river in the territory of Minnesota, known
as the St. Peter's, should be known and designated on
the public records as the Minnesota River."
It is a Dakota word, and signifies, according to Dr.
Williamson, "turbid or whitish water."
sEme  OUT ON    A' CLORIG EXPEDTION.
The extreme northwest was penetrated by traders and
Jesuits, from the Canadas, soon after
[20]
4. 
SALNT PETERS.  
FIRST EXPLORATIONS.
"Our pilgrim fathers moored their bark
On the wild New England shore."
Of some of these we give brief sketches.
The first white men known to have entered these unexplored wilds, were two French traders from Quebec,
in 1654. Their ostensible object was the purchase of
furs from the Dakota or Sioux Indians, who then
occupied most of the country east of the Mississippi.
Their object accomplished, they returned with flattering accounts of the remote region they had visited,
and a like adventurous spirit was thereby awakened in
others.
Bearing in his hand the standard of his faith to plant
amid the wilds, and within the sight of the natives of this
region, Menard, a Romish priest, enters the broad arena,
clone, with his cossack and prayer book.  His native enthusiasm, combined with a love for his religion, rendered
him a fit person for the enterprise. HIe was a man of
age and experience, and admirably fitted to the toils of
the mission.  His journey was beset with trials.  Such
was his scarcity of food, that he was even reduced to the
necessity of living on pounded bones, but, finally, he arrived at his destination, on the 15th October, 1660.
"For more than eight months, surrounded by a few
French voyageurs, and many savages, I dwelt," to
use his own language, "in a kind of small hermitage, a
cabin built of fir branches, piled on one another, not
so much to shield me from the rigor of the seasons, as to
correct my imagination, and persuade me  that I was
sheltered."
-On the 20th of August, 1661, while making a tour to
visit the Hurons, his comrade made a portage with the
canoe, and Menard entered the woods.  No traces of him
1 21 
MINNESOTA AS IT WAS.
could afterwards be found, and as the Indians have a
tradition that the first white man who built his "teepee"
among them was murdered, it is probable that such was
his fate.
Many years afterwards, his cassock and prayer book
were found in a Dakota lodge, and were regarded by the
possessor as "wakan," or supernatural.
Menard  might have perished fromin starvation, as this
among the early explorers was not unfrequent, according
to tradition. An intelligent native, lately deceased at
La Pointe, related the following story: "'While the natives were dwelling on the island, a party of lads who
were spearing fish through holes in the ice, discovered a
smoke arising from its eastern extremity, which was then
seldom visited. Proceeding in the direction, they found
in a rough cabin, two white men in the last stages of
starvation.  Coasting the lake late in the fall, they had
been driven by the ice on the island, and not knowing
that any human beings were near, they had almost perished, having roasted and eaten their blankets."
This event saddened, though it did not deter the Jesuits from further attempts to plant missions among  the
Indian tribes of this region.
Menard was succeeded by Claude Allong, a Jesuit,
who acted somewhat in the capacity of a missionary
while in pursuit of copper. After spending two years
near the head of Lake Superior, he embarked on tihe
Wisconsin River, and after paddling seven days, entered
the great "Father of Waters," four hundred miles below
St. Anthony's Falls; the first white man who dipped his
paddle in the Upper Mississippi, but stopping short of
the limits of Minnesota.
In the spring of 1680, Louis Hennapin descended the
22 
FIRST EXPLORATIONS.
Illinois River in a canoe, accompanied by La Salle, who
was murdered by one of his own party.
Notwithstanding the terrors depicted by the Indians,
Hennapin resolved upon the hazardous undertaking of
ascending the mighty stream.  HIe built a more commodious boat, and after a fatiguing and dangerous voyage
of nineteen days, arrived at the mouth of the MIinncsot t
River.  Hie was first to stand on "Pilot  Knob," ai.l
drink in thl Eden-like beauty of all the eye could scaln;
the first to listen to the roar of our far-famed cataract,
and to gaze with admiration on its radiant bow, while
his glowing soul expanded amid such glorious scenes.
Hie left tte marks of his enthusiastic devotion to his
church on everything.  The falls zwhicli he named for
his patron saint, he describes as being sixty feet high.
From the fact that they are constantly receding, and that
within the last ten years they have fallen away several
feet, perhaps a rod, it is quite probable, that at tihat time,
they were as high as he asserts (though now scarcely fifteen feet), and, indeed, there is indubitable evidence or
this a half mile below.
"Father Hennapin" was kindly received by the several
Indlan tribes, who had not then learned hostility to the
lwhites, and during his brief sojourn, was surprised by
the arrival of a party of French traders. In the month
of September following, they all bade adieu to the lovely
land. leaving it for others to profit from their discoveries,
and become the rich partakers of its golden fruits.
A spirit of adventure was awakened in France by the
publication of these "Travels and Discoveries," and many
daring adventurers plunged into the heart of the unknown
wild, some impelled by the spirit of gain, and others
with the mere love of novelty and desire for adventure.
23 
CHAPTER III.
FURThIER EXPLORATIONS BY THE ENGLISIH.
UNTIL 1766 these explorations had all been confined
to the French; but a restless, roving spirit was in the
breast of Jonathan Carver, a true-born Yankee of the
bluest stamp. Hie is supposed to have been, and doubtless was, a descendant of the Mayflower passenger who
was first governor of the Plymouth colony, and inherited
the adventurous spirit of his ancestor.
As early as 1763 he conceived the design of exploring
the northwest, but it was not carried out until June,
1766, and in the November following he arrived within
the present precincts of our territory. With only a Frenchman and Mohawk for guides, his heroic nature defied the
dangers of the expedition; he ascended the almost unknown river in a canoe, and exulted in the fact of being
first of the Anglo-Saxon race to view this grarnd scenery,
to tread this fertile soil, and listen to the roar of the now
far-famed cataract.
HIis winter abode was the cave which bears his name,
one mile below the CAPITOL, and now included in the
city limits of St. Paul. Carver describes it as a "remarkable cave of amazing depth," which the Indians termed
"Wakan Teepee.'"  He says the entrance is about ten
feet and the arch within about fifteen feet high, and about
thirty broad, the bottom consisting of clear white sand.
He also speaks of a lake, which commenced about
[24]
0 
FURTHER EXPLORATIONS BY rIl'HE ENGLISHI.  25
thirty feet from the entrance of the cave, the water of
which was transparent and extending to an indefinite
distance.  Having no means to acquire a knowledge of
its extent, he says, "I threw a pebble towards the interior part of it with my utmost strength; I could hear
that it fell into the water, and notwithstanding it was of
a small size, it caused all astonishing noise, that reverberated through all these gloomy regions.  I found in
this cave many Indian hieroglyphics, which appeared
very ancient, for tim, had nearly covered them with
moss, so that it was with difficulty I could trace them.
They were cut in a rude manner upon the inside of the
wall, which was composed of a stolne so extremely soft
that it might be easily penetrated with a knife."  Such
is Carver's description, and though now it differs very
widely from his account, the hieroglyphics  are still
visible.  The utilitarian spirit of the age has converted
this cave into a commodious wareroom.
Exploring the country, studying the language, making
friends with the Indians, shooting the buffalo, encountering the grizzly bear, &c. occupied the time of Carver
during his sojourn.
At one time we find him far up the MIinnesota River,
camping with the Indians, and wherever his canoe was
seen the British flag was flying at its head.  It appears
from various sources that his visit to the Dakotas was of
some service in bringing about a friendly intercourse
between them and the commander of the English force
at Mackinack.  That he acquired great influence over
the various bands with whom  he mingled, we have indubitable evidence; and had he chosen to remain with
them, there is little doubt but he would have been elected
chief of the Dakota nation.
2
,.1 
MINNESOTA AS IT AVAS.
Carver was endowed with unusual foresight and sagacity, and though the Falls of St. Anthony were more than
a thousand miles remote from the nearest English settlement, he was fully impressed with the belief that the
extreme beauty and fertility of the region would attract
settlers.  Yea, he saw, with the eye of faith, an enlightened population flooding the land, which, for their benefit,
he partitioned into colonies, with the number and description of each. The broad, beautiful waste he saw adorned
with stately palaces, and sacred temples, their gilded
spires pointing "where man's heart should oftener turn."
We last hear of him at one of the great councils of the
Dakotas, in the vicinity of the "cave."  Selecting some
of their number for guides, and taking a regretful leave
of the remainder, he proceeded by way of Chippewa river
and Lake Superior to Mackinack, and thence by the
nearest route to England, where he published an account
of his "Adventures in the Northwest."
In 1848, Dr. Hartwell Carver visited the region which
had been the theater of his grandfather's rich adventures.
He came as claimant of the soil-his claims being predicated on a title to one hundred miles square, ceded to the
former by the two head chiefs of the Dakota nation.
This conveyance of land was claimed to have been ratified by George III. But the efforts of the heirs of
Jonathan Carver to hold the same were, and are still,
unsubstantiated by Congress; and doubtless the last
lingering hope of any right to the same has expired in
the breast of the most sanguine of the heirs.
26 
CHAPTER IV.
FIRST TRADERS AND MISSIONARIES.
A line of trading posts was established far up the Mis
sissippi, above the Falls of St. Anthony, by \Wm. Morrison, in 1802, and he remained a resident of the country
until 1826.  During this period he was agent for the
American Fur Company of New York City, and was the
real discoverer of the reputed source of the Mississippi,
having seen Lake Itasca in 1804.  This honor has been
accorded to Gen. Pike, who, under an order of government, visited this region in 1806, and supposed himself
to be the discoverer, the two explorers not having met,
whereby the mistake might have been corrected. Schoolcraft also unjustly claims this honor, but it is certain that
several had visited this point before he had even originated the design of doing so.
We believe, on good authority, that the reputed source
of the Mississippi is not the correct one. Capt. Eastman,
of the U. S. A., and others having equal facilities for
making a correct opinion, with whom I have conversed,
assert its origin to be a hundred or more lakes, of which
Itasca is one, all centering in one point, to form the
mighty stream. This is far more philosophical, and I
have no doubt of its correctness.
It was the visit of Gen. Pike, just referred to, which
effected the purchase of the beautifuil lands east of the
Mississippi, included within the limits of our territory.
Hie was eminently fitted for the delicate but arduous task;
and but for his influence with the natives, they would
[2X
1, 
MINNESOTA AS IT WAS.
probably have made much stronger demonstrations in
favor of the British, in the war of 1812, in which this
noble and gallant man lost his life.
Some brief notices of early traders come in place at this
point, and may not be uninteresting to the reader.
Mr. Joseph Renville was the son of a French trader
and an Indian mother, and his history forms a link
between the past and present history of Minnesota. IIe
was born upon the soil about the year 1779, at which
time it is computed there were not more than six white
families residing within the whole of the vast territory
comprised in northern Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, and
Minnesota.
He was taken to Canada by his father when ten years
of age, and his education entrusted to a Romish priest.
Still, in youth, he returned to his native land, and was
afterwards the guide of Gen. Pike to the Falls of St.
Anthony, through whose influence he obtained the appointment of interpreter. During a long period he was
one of the most important citizens of the territory, employed by Government in various ways, and extending
to all travelers great hospitality. Hle was a warm friend,
both to the missionaries and his mother's people. Under
his direction, the first corn was planted in Minnesota,
and he was the first to engage in raising stock. His post
obtained a reputation among explorers, where a warm
welcome always awaited them. He warmly welcomed
Dr. Williamson, to whom he rendered valuable assistance
in the establishment of his missions, and who spoke of
him ever afterward with the greatest kindness and respect. He acted as translator of Scripture, being such a
natural linguist as to render him eminently fit for an interpreter.
-0
28 
FIRST TRADERS AND MISSIONARIES.
Years before there was any Christian minister in
Minnesota, he was married according to the Christiall
service, performing a journey to Prairie du Chien for
that purpose. He also possessed a large copy of the
Bible, which was probably the first in Minnesota. This
Bible was recently presented to the Historical Society by
one of his sons, and while at the Mission-house in Lac
qui Parle, whence it was to be forwarded to St. Paul, the
house and all its contents were destroyed.
HIis wife was the first Dakota who joined the Christian
church at the Lac qui Parle, and the first to die in the
Christian faith. She had become a Christian through
the teachings of her husband, before she had ever seen a
missionary, and her death was most happy and triumphant.
Mr. Renville held an important office in the church, of
which he was a valuable member.  His death scene was
one of unusual interest, as described by the missionary,
and a bright legacy to the Christian church. It occurred
in 1856.  His children are respected and honored whereever known, the mantle of their father having fallen
upon them.
Louis Provengalle, who died at Mendota in 1850, had
been for more than fifty years a resident of this country
Hie was a man of strong mind, but of little education.
Hiis books of Indian credit were kept by hieroglyphics,
and understood only by himself, and the correctness of
his accounts was not to be questioned.
In character he was bold and daring. On one occasion
a company of pillagers threatened the seizure of his
goods, when seizing a firebrand he held it to a keg of
gunpowder, declaring his determination to blow himself
and them into the air if they took a single article. This
29
0 
[INNESOTA AS IT WAS.
had the desired effect, and he was never afterwards
molested. Hiis history would make a large and interest ing volume.
Mr. Farribault is the last survivor of the original tra ders, having reached an advanced age, greatly respected
for integrity and uprightness of character.
Amongthe original inhabitants, who built their cabins
on the high bluff of the Mississippi, where now smiles
the young city of St. Paul, was an old man of Swiss
descent, who had strayed from the remote north. IIis
frugal wants were supplied by the gun, and a few culinary vegetables, cultivated with tools of his own make.
Once in a winter ramble, I found myself at the door
of his cabin, and my rap was responded to by the French
"Entrez."   Comfortless, indeed, was the aspect within.
Several children were playing in the midst of disorder
and dirt. Age andinfirmity were the portion of his cup,
but his countenance was radiant with joy as I took his
withered hand. Hie had been perusing some worn and
soiled leaves of a French Bible, and evinced by word
and look the comfort they afforded him; and raised his
dim eyes to heaven in token that his trust was there.
iHe had become an object of interest, and not unfrequently were my feet treading the narrow path to his
miserable abode, and never without a profitable lesson to
the soul. One bright morning in the following spring,
just as earth had drunk up the snow, I was told that he
was sick unto death, and I soon stood at his bedside for
the last time. A halo of light was about that bed of
straw, and rested upon his pallid features, more radiant
than the beams of natural light which entered at his
small window.  With fervor he grasped my hand, and
thanked me for coming to see a poor, old, dying man,
30 
FIRST TRADERS AND MISSIONARIES.
while the tears streamed down his wan and withered
face.
It was a blessed privilege to stand by sutch a death
bed.  In life he had remembered his Creator, and in
death he was not forsaken of him.  His home of poverty
on earth was about to be exchanged for the 1"Mansion
prepared for such as love the Saviour." "09'tis a glorious
boon to die."
31 
CIIAPTER V.
FORT SNELLING.
FROM Carver passed an interval of nearly half a cen
tury, with naught to mark its periods or note its history.
An occasional trader, for the love of gain, planted his
post upon the Mississippi and its tributaries, marrying, in
most cases, amongst the natives, and seeking no other
advantages for his growing family, than were found
amongst the tribe with whom he dwelt.
The shout of the hunter and whoop of the warrior re sounded o'er the bluffs.  The noble river remained unrippled, save by the Indian's paddle, until a defence of
the frontier was found expedient.
The present site of Fort Snelling was        selected, and
recommended to the war department, by Major Long, in
1817.  In 1819 the first detachment of troops, under
command of Colonel Leavenworth, arrived at the mouth
of the Minnesota river, and established a cantonment,
preparatory to the erection of more permanent quarters.
St. Louis was the nearest town of any importance, and
this only in embryo, whence "supplies" were "poled,"
nine hundred miles in a flat boat, chartered by government for the purpose, the trip requiring three months.
The fort was named after its first commandant, and Lake
Harriet, a beautiful transparent sheet of water, after his
heroic and inestimable wife. The original barracks were
of logs, but were rebuilt of stone in 1845-7, a noble and
commanding fortification.
[8I 
FORT SNELLING.
The first white woman who trod this soil, was Mrs.
Clark, wife of the commissary; the first to endure the
fatigues, and enjoy the romance of a voyage on the
Upper Mississippi. The water was so low that the men
were obliged frequently to wade in the river, and draw
the boat through the murd, thus consuming six weeks in
the last three hundred miles.
Arrived at their destination, they were obliged to live
in the boat, until a shelter and defence from the Indians
could be erected. After one month in the. boat, added to
the time already occupied by the trip, Mrs. Clark regarded it a rich luxury to commence housekeeping in
her new log hut, though it was of the rudest kind,
"plastered with mud, and chinked with clay."
It was December when they got into their winter
quarters, and the fierce winds which swept over the
prairies, obliged them to keep mostly within doors. Once
in a violent storm, the roof of their cabin was partly
removed, leaving no protection for the inmates, and the
baby, for shelter, was placed under the bed.
Let it not be understood that Mrs. Clark was long
without female companionship; for some four or five
ladies had.accompanied their husbands, and with all the
discomforts of pioneers, they had their social pleasures,
and even in their rude, floorless abodes, held their dancing assemblies once a fortnight.
Mrs. Clark left Fort Snelling in 1827.  During the
period of her sojourn (eight years), one wedding, only,
had been chronicled among their number, there having
been but one unmarried lady in their circle. The marriage could not be solemnized short of a trip to Prairie
du Chien, three hundred miles distant, and being in the
winter it was performed on the ice.
2*
33 
MINNESOTA AS IT WAS.
In 1820, Colonel Snelling was appointed to the come
mand,  prosecuting the work of building  with  great
energy, and filling his station with dignity, and winning
golden opinions from subordinate officers and privates.
Mrs. Snelling, true to the noble instinct of woman,
would not allow her husband to brave the dangers and
privations of the wilderness alone.  The cabin of the keel
boat in which she was a passenger, scarcely allowed her
to stand upright, while the weather was exceedingly
warm, and the musketoes were as annoying as in later
days. The fatigues and anxieties of the trip were increased by the care of her young children; which, added
to the fear of the ferocious-looking savages, numerous on
both shores, robbed the young mother of nearly all quiet
rest.  A few months after their arrival, Mrs. Snelling's
fifth child was born.  1Her sick room was "papered and
carpeted with buffalo robes, and made quite comfortable."
Two years later, soon after moving into the new barracks, this child sickened and died; the first white child
whose demise is recorded.
Soon after the arrival of Colonel Snelling, work was
commenced at St. Anthony's Falls, on the west side, a
grist mill erected, and other improvements contemplated.
The first white woman who visited the Falls, was Mrs.
Capt. George Goading.  What must her emotions have
been, as with a proud consciousness of standing where
no other of her sex had stood, she quaffed the full
draught from Nature's glorious fount!
The first years in the history of Fort Snelling were
monotonous in the extreme. The monthly arrival of a
mail, conveyed four hundred miles on the back of a
drafted soldier, and the annual arrival of a fiat boat,
were the chief events to record in the routine of weeks,
34 
FORT SNELLING.
and even months, and years, save the frequent disturbances among the Indians.
One incident, however, which created no little exciteinent at the time, is worthy of record.  Two captive white
children, whose parents, from the Red River settlement,
had been murdered by the Sioux, were found by some
traders on the St. Peter's River, and Colonel Snelling immediately sent an officer with a company of soldiers, for
their rescue. Their ages were eight and five. The
eldest could narrate the facts relative to their captivity;
and because he cried, on seeing the brains of his little
sister dashed out against a tree, and their parents cruelly
murdered, le had a small portion of his scalp removed,
which was an open sore at the time of the rescue. Still,
they were reluctant to leave their captors, who were also
loath to give them up. They were kindly received and
cared for by the families of the garrison. The eldest died
while yet young, leaving happy evidence that religious
instruction had not been bestowed on him in vain, and
the younger was sent to an orphan asylum in New
York.
The Christian character of Mrs. Snelling is worthy of
special attention.   Highly intelligent and refined, she
placed all her accomplishments at the feet of her Redeemer, and quietly, yet firmly evinced the power of the
principle that " worketh no ill to its neighbor." The instruction of children was her particular forte, and on each
Sabbath she convened.them for religious teaching, to
which is attributable the happy death bed of the orphan
captive.
She was possessed of a buoyant spirit, and enjoyed,
with a high relish, the rich scenes on which her romantic,
ardent nature feasted.  From childhood she had been
35 
I{INNESOTA AS IT WAS.
accustomed to equestrian exercise, and here she found
enlarged opportunity for its enjoyment. Hiow unlike an
amble through a well paved thoroughfare, is a gallop
wheresoever one listeth, over the unfenced prairie! The
very soul expands, as the atmosphere imparts new life to
the system, and the inflated nostrils of the beast evince
his enthusiasm and joy in untrammeled liberty!
On one occasion, as Mrs. S. was riding with an officer,
they descried a wolf, to which, as by common consent,
they gave chase. Her bonnet flew off, and with hair
streaming in the wind, the bounding steeds flew onward,
until they actually ran down the object of pursuit.
At this time, the wolves are represented as so
numerous, that their boldness was most presuming; and
so nearly starved, that any sort of food left within their
reach, was sure to be-devoured by them; and it is the
more wonderful, that our fair huntress and her gallant
attendant, were not- devoured by the half-famished animal, than that it should have been borne home by them,
a trophy of their heroism.
In 1823, a sound hitherto unheard, broke upon the
silence of this remote region. Nearer, and yet nearer it
approached, until a moving, approaching object was descried upon the water. The natives placed their hands
over their mouths, in token of astonishment, and finally,
with shrieks of alarm, fled in terror from the monster.
They imagined that the Great Spirit was angry, and had
come to seek redress, and therefore, with streaming hair
and sailing blankets, they sought to hide from his presence. A sentinel on duty had been first to discover, and
announce to the garrison the steamer's approach, and so
unbelieving were the people, that they were about to
place him under guard, as an insane man, when the
36 
FORT SNELLING.
"Virginia," a stern wheel boat, sought a landing. The
booming cannon and shouts of welcome rolled forth, long
and loud, evincing an unmistaken and hearty welcome
from the whole command.   These, and the sound of
steam, having ceased, a daring Indian ventured to peep
out from his covert. Seeing no change in the natural
world, he cautiously crept forth, and at last approached
the object of terror and wonder, and declared it to be a
"patah-watah " (fire canoe).
The monotony of society was enlivened by social additions, made by this steamer. Wives and sisters had
accompanied the new officers who arrived, and the circle
of ladies had swelled to ten. Their isolated position
might be regarded as unfavorable to enjoyment, but
from what we learn of these women, we are sure they
had a fount of happiness within their hearts and homes,
and from what we have seen, we know they had a woerld
of rich enjoyments without.  Such a life must be experienced to be appreciated. What are all the gay trappings and trammelings of fashion, to home-bred joys;
and what comparison have gilded halls and the adornments of art to the great drawing-room of NATURE!
37 
CHAPTER VI.
FURTHER INCIDENTS.
IN October, 1825, the family of Colonel Snelling left
to visit their friends in the east. Before they reached
Lake Pepin the ice was running so rapidly that they
could not proceed; it had cut through the cabin of their
boat, and the leaks made it very uncomfortable.  It must
be recollected that though a steamboat had visited the
fort some some two years previous to this, it was only an
annual occurrence, under charter of government, to convey men and supplies thither.
A log cabin was hastily thrown up at the point where
our travelers abandoned their boat, and an express sent
back to the fort for sleighs and provisions, as they had
nothing but corn, which they boiled in ley, on which to
subsist. A second express was despatched, and after two
weeks the joyful sound of sleigh-bells greeted their ears.
The ]ittle boy of Mrs. Snelling ran out to meet them,
found ready access to the provisions, and with a loaf of
bread in each hand, returned in haste to his mother, exclaiming, as he threw it into her lap, "Eat, mother, eat."
The half-famished group partook of the coarse food
with a hearty relish-sweeter to them than the most
dainty fare to pampered appetites. They concluded to
return at once to the fort, where they were soon joyfully
welcomed by their anxious friends, among whom were
reckoned some favorite Indians.
[88 
FURTHER INCIDENTS.
One aged and infirm savage, who had always furnished
them game, came leaning on his staff. Hie was sick at
the time, and could scarcely crawl back to his lodge,
where the next day he died.
In 1851, Mrs. Snelling, having seen much affliction in
the loss of husband and children, but still retaining much
of her youthful vivacity and buoyancy of spirit, visited
this country, after an absence of twenty-five years. She
was gratified with the development of its resources, and
the progress of civilization, and many a pleasing reminiscence was revived amid these once familiar scenes.
The introduction of steam into this remote region was
an important era in its history, not only to the white, but
the red man. Men and women, prompted by the love
of souls and their Savior, had, in obedience to the command "Go ye into all the world," taken life in hand, and
entered upon the great and trying work in this vast arena,
of instructing the blood-thirsty savage in the principles
of the Gospel, of leading his dark mind to the fountain oi
life and peace.
In 1830, a Methodist mission was established a few
miles below Fort Snelling.  In 1835, Rev. T. S. William son arrived, with his family and assistants; and several
others, about this time, established missions at different
points, these being among the first efforts of the Presby terians in this vicinity. Through the influence of Dr.
Williamson, and in accordance with the long-cherished
desire of the few Christians at the Fort, the first lurch
was organised, consisting of traders, officers, and their
wives, and the missionaries, to the number of 20.
One of this little band, Major Ogden, recently deceased,
wvas a young man of most unquestionable piety, and com mendable devotion to the cause of his Master. He
39 
MINNESOTA AS IT WAS.
became an elder in this church, and delighted to do good
as he had opportunity. Remote from civilization, and
far from those he most loved, while superintending the
erection of Fort Riley, he died, in the vigor of manhood.
There is moral sublimity in such a death.  Who would
not die "the death of the righteous," and whether cut
down in the vigor of youth, or in the ripeness of age, be
ready for a crown of glory?
t0
OF 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.  
CHAPTER VII.
FIRST SETTLERS.
MISSIONARIES and traders, as we have seen, were already within the limits of our territory.  A few of the
French had strayed from the Selkirk Settlement and
Canadas, but no actual settlement had been commenced;
no efforts made for the fiuture emigrant, or to induce him
hither.
In 1837, Franklin Steele, from Pennsylvania, found
his way up the Mississippi, and was the first man to commence active, energetic measures for the future weal of
our beauteous land, and at that time was probably the
only man thus employed between our present boundary
on the south, and Pembina on the north, and between
Superior on the east, and the Rocky Mountains on the
west. Hie is supposed to have been the first man that
"fleshed his axe" in all this wide domain.  The same
year he commenced lumbering operations on the St.
Croix.
It may not be improper, or uninteresting, to state the
humble beginnings of a business already so important,
and destined to become even more so. His team consisted of a single ox driven before a cart, and a crew of
seven half-breeds. His supplies consisted of a barrel
of pork, which cost $40, a barrel of flour $11, half a
bushel of beans at $4, molasses at $2 per gallon, &c. &c.
His operations the first year were principally confined to
getting lumber for a mill.  Now, some thirty saws are 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
running on that stream, and from thirty to fifty millions
feet of lumber are produced annually.
The great sagacity and foresight of Mr. Steele enabled
him to make many fortunate strikes, of which we shall
have more to say hereafter. His energies have been ex tended into every department of business, and every
effort has been crowned with surprising success; and
now, as a business man, as a man of wealth, socially and
otherwise, he ranks first in our territory.
A Mission station was commenced by the Methodists
at Koposia in 1835, but was soon after given up to the
Presbyterians, and a new one started by them at Red
Rock. In a short time this also was abandoned, and
those engaged in it resolved to become citizens, ancl were
the original settlers of that beautiful prairie.
Numbered with these was Mrs. IHIolton, who came at
the outset of the mission, and no American woman having preceded her, she can be safely accounted the first
white citizen woman in the territory.
About this time Dr. Carlie built his cabin on the banks
of the St. Croix, and introduced his wife to the varieties
of pioneer life. Not long, however, was he permitted to
enjoy his rural home, but was drowned in crossing the
lake.  His wife still survives, having married a brother
of her first husband, who is a physician also.
Mr. Hone, with his young bride, was one of the early
arrivals in the country; but his frontier cabin at Point
Douglas has been supplanted by a spacious dwelling, and
the wilderness around him has been "made to rejoice
and blossom as the rose."
Mr. Anson Northup came to Minnesota in 1839.  He
drove an ox-team through the pathless country from
Illinois, and the following year returned east for his
44 
FIRST SETTLERS.
family. Hie built and kept the first boarding-house on
the St. Croix, and to him and his inestimable wife is the
country greatly indebted, for services rendered during
this important period.   The coarse lumberman found
shelter and a full board beneath their roof, and many a
tenderly-reared son, who had seen brighter days in a faroff land, was kindly cared for, and if sick, gently ministered to, by her benevolent hand.
Then was the basis of our present prosperity laid.
They lived not in the present, but future, yet the most
sanguine ventured not a hope of what their own eyes
were so soon to see, of their own and the country's
prosperity.
In 1840, Orange Walker, from Vermont, erected the
marine mill on the St. Croix River.  In 1844, John
McKusick, from Mlaine, built the first one at Stillwater,
at the head of Lakle St. Croix, and about the same time
MAr. Northup built the first public house there.  These
formed the nucleus of a settlement-the first to attain
importance in the Territory.  The enterprise of Mr.
Northup has pushed him on from settlement to settlement, one after another being indebted to him for its
first hotel.
With the heroism of a true woman, has Mrs. N. done
her duty, amid increasing cares, privations. and hardships, all struggling for the mastery. But prosperity has
triumphed, and her name deserves to be inscribed in
letters of gold on historic pages, a pattern of patient endurance and virtuous. excellence.
Not unfrequently is it that those who " bear the burden
and heat of the battle," are unknown and unchronicled.
So with the pioneers in infant settlements. The hardships met, the trials endured, and difficulties overcome,
45 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
are overlooked or uncared for, by those who swell the
after-tide of population, and they behold the laurels
which of right belong to themselves, gracing the brows
of those who have no just claim to them.
And  women there are in every such community,
wshose unwritten lives would make many an interesting
chapter in our country's history; without their coo6peration the foundations of society could not have been laid.
They have toiled early and late to encourage those who
were hewing the rough timbers for the beautiful superstructure. Their words of cheer have sustained the
heart-sick wanderer, and with unrewarded care, save in
an approving conscience, have they watched beside the
sick bed of the stranger, and never known fatigue so long
as the wants of their households were not met.
Woman, in all states of society, and in all ages of the
world, has had a part to perform, an all-important part,
known only in its results. The women of the Revolution, though they could not use the musket, and appear
on the tented field, could run their pewter spoons into
balls, and bid fathers, brothers, husbands, and sons, be
firm in their duty as they left for the camp.
So those who were earliest in Minnesota, and who
lived more in the future than the present, were indeed
blessings to their companions.  Even since the writer's
introduction into the Territory, it has been said most
emphatically that a "unit added to the female population,
was virtually of more importance than a whole cargo of
the sterner sex."
46 
CHAPTER VIII.
ELEMENTS AT WORK.
ELEMENTS, as we have seen, were at work, which, if
kindly fostered, would result in great and lasting blessings. The germs of settlements, in two or three instances,
had been planted, and hope whispered a prosperous issue.
Upon a commanding bluff of the Mississippi, scattered
here and there, were some half dozen decayed and decaying log hovels, chinked with mud, and every way of
the meanest appearance, evincing the Iack of taste and
ambition in the occupants. They were low French and
half breeds, and repudiated the forms and conventionalities of the world, of which they knew comparatively
nothing.
The appellation of "Pig's Eye" had been given to the
settlement, in honor to an important citizen with one
eye, which bore a fancied resemblance to the eye of that
interesting quadruped.  The nucleus of this village was
a ten by twelve log chapel, the site of which was marked
by the Romish priest. More recently a christening service
dignified the settlement with the name St. Paul, and
more recently still, "Pig's Eye" has floated two miles
down stream, though this point is fast losing its identity
among the "additions" to St. Paul.
During my first journeyings westward I was frequently
advised to retrace my steps, as "dangers, and perhaps
cruel death," awaited my debut among the "bloody
Indians." One individual in particular, volunteered this
[4'] 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
advice, who was then en route East, from a visit to the
falls of St. Anthony, Fort Snelling, &c. and knew pfositively there was not such a plactce as St. Paul in that vicinity.
"But there was," he said, "a miserable little trading post
called'Pig's Eye,' a few miles below, but no white
woman could live there, though of course that was not
the point of which I was in pursuit."
The old chapel, after undergoing sundry enlargements
and improvements, to meet the wants of the increasing
congregation, was left in charge of the "'' Sisters of
Charity," for school purposes, and a large brick church
substituted for worship. The log chapel is now demol
ished, and an elegant cathedral is found essential to ad
vance the cause of the Papacy.
But to return. No improvements had been made,
when, in 1841, Henry Jackson, with his young wife,
landed beneath the towering bluff, from one of the half
dozen steamers, which that season found their way here.
It was midnight, dark and rainy. Not a light was to be
seen, and the bluff loomed in the darkness its formidable
and forbidding front. The lady had been assured that
it was a "right smart chance of a place," and on inquiry,
was told it was "further back," and that there was a
"power of mud" before she could reach it. They finally
attained the summit of the almost perpendicular ascent,
and entered the ravine, (which now no stranger and few
citizens could find) following a guide through an Indian
trail, winding amid dense hazel bushes, over what was
then known as "Mount Pisgah," but now as "Baptist
Hill," just leaving "Hazel Mount "* on the left, to the
only dwelling in that immediate vicinity, a full half
mile from the landing.
* The seat of the Pioneer' School, and the writer's abode
48 
ELEMENTS AT WORK.
The cabin roof was of straw, over which was a layer
of turf; this was so saturated by the rain, that the in.
mates had been driven from their beds. The genuine
hospitality of their hearts enabled them to devise speedy
means for the comfort of their guests, as they proffered
them their own deserted bed. A quilt, for the absorption
of the water, was suspended beneath the dripping roof,
and the wearied strangers retired to dream of shower
baths in other lands.
The bright rain drops glittering amid the bushes the
following morning, were as so many greetings of welcome,
and the clouds, too, had passed from their hearts.
The first work of the emigrants was to build them a
cabin, and their site was selected on the commanding
point, directly above and overlooking the river at Lower
Landing, in other wvordls, at the terminus of Bench street.
The original room was twelve by fifteen feet, and minus
doors, windows, or floor, they "set up housekeeping."
A large slab answered for a rug before the bed, and never
a wolf dared thrust his head within the blanket which
served as a door, though the lady herself often drove
them from the premises. Thus, for eighteen months, did
things move on, with  naught to chronicle, save some
slight improvements in the cabin by way of floor, windows, and door, the "latch string" of which was never
pulled in.
There was little expectation then that the isolated trading post would soon expand into the busy, bustling city,
with all the elements of the great eastern metropolis, and
, daily line of well laden steamers be crowding the levee.
Like all things western, the cabin was destined to grow,
until it boasted of three or four rooms, with plastered
walls,  while a white "siding" concealed the rough logs             3
49 
LATER SETTLEiMENTS.
an effectual deception as to its original state. There was
such an air of gentility and comfort in that cozy sitting
room, that the inpressohs of my first visit are more
easily retained than expressed. The rustic porch and
small windows were shaded by a dense vine transplanted
from the "bottom lands," softening-the suIn's rays as they
fell upon thle carpet, and subguing any repulsive feeling
which might arise'. 
In the yard a tame fox and deer had their gambols;
and prairie flowers, the sweetest on earth, imparting their
odors, enhanced the beauty of the scene.
In the autumn of 1842, John R. Irvine "claimed"
the beautiful plateau now embraced in "Ripper Town."
WTith his family, frontier life was a parallel to the above
history, with the addition of more numerous domestic
cares and parental anxieties.
There was a warm sympathy between these families,
the exclusive society of the settlement. The children
found sources of pleasure at home, in chasing the gaywinged butterfly, and plucking the wild flowers, as they
bounded over the prairie and up the bluffEs, and their
spirits caught the notes of the grove songsters, until they
were tuned to the same sweet harmony.
Life had many cares and pleasures, but withal was
wedding the souls of the pioneers to their adopted homes.
And though I could not then understand the emotions
that induced Mrs. Irvine to affirm, that she would sooner
go as much farther west, than return to her home in
Buffalo, experience has taught me that I can heartily re
spond to the sentiment.
In 1845, Mr. A. L. Larpenteur married, established
himself in business here, and has become one of our most
substantial and influential merchants.
50 
ELEMENTS AT WORK.
Louis Robear, a Frenchl trader, was the chieftain of
his countrymen, who then composed the greater part of
the sparse population of this place.
Such was the limited society-to which the writer was
introduced in St. Paul, and yet, isolated as it really was,
from the living, acting world, not a cloud of sadness or
regret ever flitted across her mental horizon.  Life was
no longer an idle dream; the hours dragging heavily, and
with soul-longings for some real purpose.  HIere was a
field to be cultivated; a garden of untrained flowers to
be tended, and the heart raised a thank-offering to heav.
en and cheerfully entered upon its work. But we anticipate.
NUOLEUB OF ST. PAUL$.
51 
CHAPTER IX.
WHY I CAME TO ST. PAUL.
TIlE question, why I came to St. Paul, will naturally
arise in the mind of the reader.  This cannot be better
explained, nor with less appearance of egotism, than by
the following letter from Rev.  Dr. Williamson, of the
Sioux Mission. It was addressed to the Board of National
Popular Education, then in its embryo state, and by them
placed in my hands.
" My present residence is on the utmost verge of civilization in the northwestern part of the United States,
within a few miles of the principal village of white men in
the territory that we suppose will bear the name of Minnesota, which some would render,' clear water,' though
strictly, it signifies slightly turbid or whitish water.
"The village referred to has grown up within a few
years in a romatic situation on a high bluff of the Mississippi, and has been baptized by the Roman Catholics by the
name of St. Paul. They have erected in it a small chapel,
and constitute much the larger portion of the inhabitants.   The Dakotas call it Im-mi-ja-ska (white rock),
from the color of the sand-stone which forms the bluff
on which the village stands.  This village has five stores,
as they call them, at all of which intoxicating drinks constitutea part, and I suppose the principal part, of what
they sell.  I would suppose the village contains a dozen
or twenty families living near enough to send to school.
Since I came to this neighborhood, I have had  fre
t[2] 
WHY I CAME TO ST. PAUL.
quent occasion to visit thie village, and have been grieved
to see so many children growing up entirely ignorant of
God, and unable to read his AVord, with no one to teach
thiem. Unless your Society can send them a teacher, tlhere
seems to be little prospect of their having one for several
years. A few days since I went to the place for the purpose of making inquiries in reference to the prospect of a
school.  I visited seven families, in which there were
twenty-three children of proper age to attend school, and
was told of five more, in which were thirteen more that
it is supposed might attend, making thiirty-six in twelve
families.  I suppose more than half of the parents of
these children are unable to read themselves, and care
but little about having their children taught.  Possibly
the priest might deter some from attending, who might
otherwise be able and willing.
"I suppose a good female teacher can do more to promote the cause of education and true religion than a man.
The natural politeness of thie French (who constitute more
thian half the population) would cause them to be kind
and courteous to a female, even though the priest should
seek to cause opposition.  I suppose she might have
twelve or fifteen scholars to begin with, and if she should
have a good talent for winning the affections of children (and one who has not should not come), after a fe,wr
months she would have as many as she could attend to.
"One woman told me shie hiad four children she wished
to send to school, and that she would give boarding and
a room in her house to a good female teacher, for the
tuition of her children.
"A teachier for' this place should love the Savior, and
for his sake should be willing to forego, not only many of
the religious privileges and elegances of New England
53 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
towns, but some of tihe neatness also. She should be en tirely free from prejudice on account of color, for among
her scholars she might find not only English, French, and
Swiss, but Sioux and Chippewas, with some claiming
kindred with the African stock.
"A teacher coming should bring books with her sufficient to begin a school, as there is no book store within
three hundred miles."
This was the first I had heard of St. Paul, or even of
Minnesota, and the impression was at once riveted on
my mind that I must go; and when, after two weeks of
prayerful deliberation, the question was asked,  "Who
will go to St. Paul?" I could cheerfully, though tremblingly, respond, " Here am I; 8end me."  Every possible
obstacle was presented; the difficulties of the almost unknown route; thle condition of society; doubts as to a
welcome by the people generally; the self-denials to be
exercised; the privations to be endured-all of which were
to me as so many incentives to persist in my decision. In
short, I came because I was more needed here than at
any other spot on earth, and because there was no other
one of my class who felt it a duty to come.
Friends violently opposed. Those who dare not oppose
did not encourage, and vice versa. It was evident that all
considered it hazardous in the extreme, presuming on,
yea, tempting Divine Providence. Only one had said,
"Go, and tMe Lord will be with you." And thus, with no
human aid on which to rely, the arm of the Invisible
was my support. And though comparatively ignorant
of the world and its evils, I went forth to struggle with
its waves; to tread the unknown future-a path hitherto unexplored-a thorny maze; but with the certainty
that, where thorns abound. roses often bloom, and their
54 
WHY I CAME TO ST. PAUL.
sweet fragrance has refreshed me when weary, and been
a sweet savor unto my soul.
I was happy then; I am happy in the retrospect.
Never has a regret for the decision crossed my heart;
on the contrary, it has ever been a theme of gratitude
that I was enabled to overcome all impediments, and
come at a time when no other one would venture.
55 
ClHAPTER X.
REVIEW OF THE BOOK OF PROVIDENCE.
TIHE green hills of my dear native state had faded
from my view; the dear dwellers at the old homestead
were distanced, farther and yet farther, and for the first
time I was without friend or kin, with more than two
thousand miles to traverse to my final destination.
It is with no ordinary emotions that I review these
pages in the book of Providence, where I was led "in a
way I had not known." Surely, "goodness and mercy
have followed me" since the morn I went forth at the
bidding of my Master, to buffet alone the turbid billows
of life.
Friends in Palmyra welcomed the strangers, and kindly
entertained them on the Sabbath, and again "set them
on their way rejoicing." This is the first incident of my
journey to record. Never will that reception be forgotten, or cease to awaken grateful emotions. Some of
that "eleven" have since been welcomed at the portals
of glory!
Desirous to proceed, we knew of no good reason why
we should not have passage on the Chesapeake, instead
of waiting a day in Buffalo. But we failed in securing
it. No reason was assigned, and we impatiently submiitted. The fate of that steamer is well known; and
friends still weep for the many who then found a grave
in Lake Erie.
Unacquainted with the world, and unaccustomed to
traveling alone, God prepared the hearts of Clevelandcl
[tf] 
REVIEW OF THE BOOK OF PROVIDENCE.
friends to attend me most of the long journey; and.but
for this I could scarce have accomplished it in safety.
Then the facilities of western travel were very imperfect.
There was not a railroad beyond Michigan, and staging
over the worst of roads was the only mode of conveyance
from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi.  To obviate this
difficulty, we journeyed by steam and stage to Cincinnati,
where seventeen hundred miles  of river course. lay
before is.
All spoke kindly of the object, though none approvingly; and many evidently regarded it as a wild chimera
of the brain, and disappointment the inevitable result;
and it was, indeed, generally believed, as I had been
already assured, that I would never find a St. Paul. But
there was never an instance when the sinking hope, or a
desire to return, predominated in my breast.
Thus far an unseen hand had led me, and caused me
most emphatically to feel that
"'Tis Providence that shapes our ends,
Rough-hew them as we will."
At St. Louis, the New York of the West, a combination of circumstances made me a passenger up the river
in the same cabin with Mrs. Dr. Jones, of Galena, Illinois..
Hiad there been the lurking of a doubt relative to the
way, she was prepared to remove it. Having been twice
at St. Paul, she was the first to define its locality. Her
picture of it was not the most pleasing, but I had sought
for a correct one and found it. Her words of cheer sent
the sunshine of hope through my heart, and the meeting
WitlL her will ever be regarded as an important link in
the chain of providences which marked my way. Time
has proved her not a "summer friend," but a woman
g*
57 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
whose price is above rubies, whose worth and virtues
shine with increasing lustre, a blessing to the world, and
blessing all within the sphere of her influence. She
kindly took the stranger in a strange land to her own
home, put in her way the means of obtaining letters to
the most important families in the vicinity, thus throwing
light and cheerfulness on my, at best, uncertain path.
58 
CHAPTER XI.
CHANGE OF SCENERY.
THE time had come when "good bye" must be exbchanged with the last of old and tried friends, the parting
kiss exchanged with the last relative, to study new scenes
and faces, and make new friends. Before turning homeward, they had commissioned the master of the steamer
Lynx with my "safe landing" at the Mission of Dr.
Williamson.  Hlope appeared in the distance-a halo of
brightness encircling her form. Nature lent her charms
to drive away the last lingerings of sadness, and to impart
happiness before unequaled.
Hitherto, the character of the scenery had been pleasing, with little variety. Low banks sloped to the water's
edge, and boundless prairies, chequered with fields of
waving grain, and dotted with fine farm-houses, formed
the landscape.  Thriving villages and cities of a precocious growth skirted the river banks, while a degree of
thrift and comfort I had little expected to see, met the
view. The "wilderness and solitary place were made
glad" by the fragrance of the rose, which bloomed in
beauty amid the verdant thicket.
Galena, the great lead mart of northern Illinois and
southern Wisconsin, is located on a river of the same
name, seven miles from its entrance with the Mississippi.
Hiere, the tame scenery merges at once into the picturesque
and beautifully wild. Streets are cut through almost
solid rock, and in some instances the roofs of three and
[591 
LATER SETTLEMEiNTS.
four story blocks are on a level with the street above;
everything indicating the indomitable energy and perseverance of the citizens.
Dubuque, ill Iowa, twenty-five miles by the river windings above Galena, is surrounded by an irregular line of
bluffs, bold and beautiful. This town, also rich in its
mining interests, is one of the fast towns of the west.
The scenery now assumed a wild grandeur, varying
with every view, and affording a literal feast for the eyes
and heart. There was scarce an appearance of civilization for three hundred miles, if we except the old French
town of Prairie du Chien, in Wisconsin, founded by some
traders the same year that William Penn, under the shadow of his "broad brim," founded the city of "Brotherly
Love." Hiere and there, upon the river bank, was a
woodman's cabin, and again a claimant's, with' a little
patch of culinary vegetables in front, with, perhaps, a
half-dozen half-clad children sporting about the door,
who, on the ringing of the boat bell, would flee like
frighted deer.
The Indian "hugged the shore" with his light canoe,
or gazed with listless apathy from the bank, where he
smoked his red-stone pipe.
"Slowly and surely" progressed the Lynx, and rapidly the hours sped on. All nature had conspired to
form a glorious day when we first looked upon "Little
Crow's Village," or Kaposia, where our boat headed on
the morning of July 16th, 1847. The ringing of the bell
occasioned a grand rush, and with telegraphic speed,
every man, woman, and child flew to the landing.
To an unsophisticated eye like mine, the scene on shore
was novel and grotesque, not to say repulsive; blankets
and hair streaming in the wind; limbs uncovered; chil
60 
CH.A NGE OF SCENERY.
dren nearly naked, the smaller ones entirely so, while a
pappoose was ludicrously peeping over the shoulder of
nearly every squaw.  In the midst of the waiting throng
appeared the Missionary and his sister.
A tear drop, which had suddenly formed in the heart,
came welling up, but was arrested by a remark of the
good humored Captain (peace to his memory), "That the
Doctor was doing it up in fine style —he had got the
whole village out for an escort!"
Before reaching the lower deck the crowd were thronging the plank and rushing upon the boat, arrayed in the
most fantastic manner, and painted according to their
fanciful notions of beauty.
I was received by the Missionaries with more than a
kindly welcome, as presented by the Captain, with the
playful injunction, "Not to let the Indians scalp vne!"
With other sage advice during this memorable up river'
trip, he had enjoined that I should " kiss the pappooses,"
and thereby secure the friendship of the band. No sooner
was I on shore than this duty became manifestly obviousthe greasy, smutty face of every mother's child being presented to afford me my initiatory lesson.
It was a moment of no ordinary interest-of calm, un definable joy, when I entered the humble mission house.
The "wild experiment" had become a reality; I stood
upon ground which to me had before existed only in the
ideal world. 
Most of the principal Indians of the ban     aed by
the chief, followed me to the house, where a forra'! pre sentation took place, and I shook hands with each eThey
were curious to learn if I was a "big knife" (from the
States), and why their expected annuities had not ar rived, presuming that I must be conversant with all affairs
61 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
at Washington. I had never felt so keenly the power
of eye scrutiny.
Hitherto, mine had bseen a dreamy life, full of waking
visions, with which reality was strangely blended. The
shadowy vista of coming years had, from childhood, been
crowded with rich imaginings.  The Red Man in his far
off home was, to my childish fancy, a being of the ideal
world.  Rarely had I seen a wandering remnant of the
race, and I had formed no correct idea of him in his native
state-on his own hunting grounds.  Now I was on the
very confines of civilization, surrounded by all the evidences of savage life.  But soon the scene changed.
Instead of stalwart men, half divested of clothing, with
limbs naked and covered with grease and soot, to protect
from mosquitos, there came a few native Christian
women for a prayer meeting.  As I saw these untutored
natives reverently bow, and heard their voices, in an unknown tongue, earnestly addressing a Throne of Grace,
new but blissful emotions possessed my heart. Such
pathos, such humility, such earnestness, I had rarely if
ever witnessed. Yet they were few, very few, who found
delight in these exercises. The majority of the Indians,
still attached to their "wankons," though Gospel claims
are urged upon them, choose the way "which goeth down
to death."
Towards evening we strolled through their village,
called at several "lodges," constructed of bark, and frolicked with the children in lieu oT conversing with their
mothers. At the lodge of the chief, a skin was placed
without the door for my benefit, by his "superior," wife.
This the mission lady urged me to accept, lest offence be
given.
It is not an unimportant matter in frontier life to secure
62 
CIHANGE OF SCENERY.
the friendship of the natives.  True they are ofttimes
treachlerous, and perhaps generally so, yet I am far from
endorsing the belief that there are no exceptions. From
the first they were kindly disposed toward me, regarding
me with apparent interest, and many a time since have 1
been glad to welcome some of these my earliest Minnesota
friends. The names of Old Betsey and Uncle John, of
Hiarpa and Winona Zee, are familiar household words,
and their good natured faces always brought a beam of
merry sunshine into the house. And old liocka-wash-ta
was "always sure to be present when least wanted;" as
the proverb runs of an evil genius, "no one could say
where he was not."
Little Crow, the chief, whose calls were frequent, both
at his village and after I had removed to St. Paul, is a
tall, handsome man, with no striking expression of countenance. The youngest of seven brothers, all of whom
have died by violent hands, ambitious for the chieftainship, attempted the life of his brother, wounding him
severely, and he fearing the design would be eventually
executed, ordered the younger to be shot. Thus the last
but one of the name was gathered to his fathers. Little
Crow possesses not the confidence of his band, who regard
him as full of malice, intrigue and cunning.  He often
attended worship at the mission house and manifested
some regard for the Scriptu es, which he had learned to
read.
63 
CHAPTER XII.
FIRST SABBATH IN MINNESOTA.
TIE day succeeding my arrival was the Sabbath, and
as yet,
"The sound of the church going bell,
These prairies and bluffs never heard."
To the poor Indian all days are alike. Only a few had,
who learned to keep it holy, assembled at the mission
house for worship: a messenger being sent "to invite
others to come in," the room was soon full. Some listened with profound attention; others remained in listless
indifference, and others quietly dozed in their seats. A
few were inclined to laugh, some left, but most remained
until the services closed.
Then commenced their favorite game of ball, arrangcments for the same having been going on all the morning,
which continued for several successive days. The competitors for the prize placed their most valuable treasures
upon a pole, which was carried around by two girls to
receive the "stakes," and when the last was entered, the
game commenced. The ball is thrown and caught by
a small circle, with leather bands on one side, attached
to a lever two or three feet long. When uncaught, the
women fly off in its pursuit, and though they have no
other interest in the game, they seem equally engaged
with the men. In this game the wives of the Chief were
most active. In passing our door one of them was kindly
[c4] 
FIRST SABBATII IN MINNESOTA.
admonished of her sin, and reminded of the sorrow her
Christian mother would have to know she was thus en
gaged.  "She knew," she said, "her mother would feel
very bad; but she was ifr away and could not know it,
and besides, her boy's father (a term for husband) bade
her' so bad,' she could not refuse."  They literally "strip
themselves for the race," and when fully aroused, ascend
the bluff with the fleetness of a fawn- with unaffected
grace of motion and dignity of mien.
Towards evening two Frenchmen were seen approaching the village. Suspicion was immediately rife with the
villagers that they were bringing with them "fire water;"
and some of them came in breathless haste, entreating
Dr. Williamson to prevent it, for too well they knew its
disastrous consequences.  As a people, they were intemperate!  Yet some had taken the pledge for a specified
number of "moons," and did not wish the temptation
there.  But vicious and venal white men are responsible
for the evil: forgetting that for this, "Gocl will surely
bring them into judgment."
In the afternoon, religious services in English were
held- some half dozen persons coming from almost as
many miles distant. And this was my first Sabbaththese were privileges I should rarely enjoy after a few
more days! I thought of friends far, far away, worshipping
God under very different circumstances; but I had no
wish to return.  I was happy in the rugged path I had
chosen, for I felt, that now, life had commenced in earnest.
Too long had it been spent in castle-building, with heart
yearnings for lving purpose.  True, the future was a blank
book, and with what-its pages might be filled, how could
I divine?  But I felt a calm, unwavering faith; a blessed
consciousness that an unseen hand was leading me "in a
65 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
way I had not known," and through "paths I hadl not
seen before."  Thus far the "Lord had directed my steps,"
and I knew that in IHim I might still safely trust, and
"move forward."
Nature was lavish with her charms, and the study
whlich I had ever so much loved, became doubly initeresting.  I read the open page in a new light, under new
impulses, for it was unmarred by the hand of Art. I
seemed to look upon the world as it emanated from the
leand of its Creator.  Hlere was a solace for sadness; a
substitute for society; a companion in solitude. A web
of fibres had intertwined itself with my spiritual being,
and a cup of nectar was the daily portion of my soul.
66 
CHAPTER XIII.
FIRST CANOE RIDE.
TITHE sun had never shone more brightly, nor the waters
danced more gaily in its beams; never the birds sang
more sweetly, nor a heart beat more in unison with the
scene, than when, for the first time, I seated myself in a
canoe, bound up stream, with two Indian girls at the
"paddles." Probably my appearance was very ungraceful
in their eyes, for they laughed merrily at my awkward
sitting, and finally scolded, hinting at the probability of
my getting a "ducking;" and there was sufficient proof
that a well-balanced head was requisite for the safety of
the light craft so heavily freighted.
Once under way, the novelty was pleasing ill the extreme.  The scenery was delightful, and amidst Nature's
profound silence, scenes, tragic and comic, that had transpired in "these ends of the earth," were rehearsed by the
accompanying missionaries. Soon thje mosquitos began
to show a "keen demand of appetite," and when, nearly
frantic from their attacks, sea-sickness overpowered me,
I yielded defenceless to their combined power.
The cry of "Patatk-wa.tah" arose from the squaws, andi
unbelief was changed to certainty by the peculiar notes
of "high pressure in the distance," and the little "Argo"
soon left us rocking in her wvake. When we had passed
up the "slough," and made our moorings beneath the
bluff, where now Stands the Upper Town, the first order
of exercise was to place an Indian blanket beneath the
[67] 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
shade of a maple, which was my first resting place in St.
Paul.  A cold crystal spring issued from a rock at a little
distance, whence water was brought which had an almost
magical effect, and I have always believed that none so
pure ever came welling up to the surface from earth's
centre.
The stranger, or the citizen even, would fail to recognize the scene which lay around and above, as any part
of the ground now occupied by Minnesota's thriving capital.  The high bluff almost forbade an attempted ascent.
The noon-day breeze played joyfu]ly among the huge
maples and smaller trees, which effectually shut out the
sun's gaze from the dancing brook, as it entered the Mississippi a few rods above.  Following an Indian trail, we
wound around the base of the bluff, when suddenly we
were cheered by the sound of human voices, and stooping,
could discern some women washing at the brook. The
scene was enchanting. A vague and indefinite pleasure
possessed the heart, and my only wish was that some appreciating friend might share the joys which Nature spread
before me. Hiowv little was realized then, that here the
"woodman's axe " was so soon to resound, the surveyor's
chain to mark out a ity, and the costly dwelling and substantial business block to rise, while numerous steamers
should crowd the landing of that canoe, making our
streets swarm with life, gayety and business bustle! Two
years, and all this change is in progress; six more, and
we have the actual reality, as if it were the work of magic.
ATorkmen of every craft have been engaged, and the
rapidity with which it is driven forward astonishes even
themselves.  Every department of business and science
has its representatives; and the little fair-haired girl,
with her meek blue eyes, who timidly stepped aside to
68 
FIRST CANOE RIDE.
let us pass, and remained half concealed by the bushes,
looking more like a wood-nymph than the living personation of flesh and blood, has grown to be a scholar and a
belle, as a part of this wonderful progress.
Turning from Nature, what a cheerless prospect greeted
this view. A few log huts composed the "town"-three
families the American population. With one of these,
distant from the rest, a home was offered me. Their's
was the dwelling-the only one of respectable size-containing three rooms and an attic.
The kindness and attention bestowed upon strangers in
the early stages of western settlement, are proverbial the
world over; nor are they overrated.  A welcome hand, a
warm heart, an open cabin, a full board, the best room
and best bed-are sure to greet them. Every individual
added to the population, adds an important item to its
history. In after years, when it has swelled to thousands,
hundreds may arrive in a day and remain unnoticed.
Each one becomes absorbed in his own interest and is lost
in the whirlpool of the rapid influx. Yet the heart beats
as warmly as ever, and really bids the same welcome.
A few days previous to my coming, the "Red River
train" arrived, an event at that time of semi-annual occurrence, and one hundred and twenty-one ox teams were
encamped in the rear of the landing, where now stands
the Lower Town.  The principal men of the company had
found fare and lodging with the few families, while the
remainder encamped with their cattle, sleeping as they
had done on the route, in their carts or upon the ground.
Their cargoes, composed of valuable furs and rare specimens of Chippewa embroidery, were taken to St. Louis.
These carts are without a particle of iron, but are very
strong; before each a single ox is harnessed, and thus in
69 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
Indian file had they passed over nine hundred miles in
fifty days. Of the Red River settlement we shall have
more to say hereafter.
The captain of this caravan had brought with him his
wife, a Scotch half-breed, for the first time out of their
settlement, and a child of a year old, and a cow was
attached to their cart for its benefit. All seemed full of
health and life, with no apparent fatigue from the journey.
Such was the crowd in St. Paul, it was thought best
that I should return to the Mission, to remain until it had,
dispersed, and proper arrangements could le made for the
commencement of the school.
70 
CHAPTER XIV.
STUDY OF INDIAN CIIARACTER.
I Nxow found that all my book knowledge of Indian
life and character was cursory, and, for the most part,
incorrect.  The world has been taught to admire him
for his noble traits, his manly bearing, and his alleged
remembrance of trifling acts of kindness.  The latter, it
is true, are remembered, but more with the expectation
of repetition than a return. Revenge is always sweet to
the Indian, though he is a base coward, and each believes
and declares every other man of the tribe to be a thief
and a liar.  They have no confidence in each other, and
of course, do not expect confidence in return. Their
habits are disgustingly filthy, and their dress, if such it
may be called, extremely unchaste. The men wear
cloth leggins coming to the knees, a breechlet of the
same, a calico shirt, and a blanket completes their toilet.
No hat is worn, but the head is covered with rude ornaments, and a heavy mass of wampum, often very expensive, adorns the neck. In winter, moccasins are worn,
but in summer, more frequently, the feet are bare. The
women wear the cloth leggins, a short skirt of the same
material, and an open "short gown," with the blanket.
Frequently the entire rim of the ear is pierced, and
adorned with "jewels of silver," or something resembling it.
Instinct, more than reason, is the guide of the red man.
He repudiates improvement, and despises manual effort.
For ages has the heart been imbedded in moral pollution.
[7] 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
His visits to the mission house are both in "season and
out of season." No room is too sacred for intrusion, and
the moccasined feet give no warning of approach. Whatever the demand, it is satisfied, if possible, by those who
"watch for their souls," and labor for the improvement
and redemption of the race. Ah! what devout thanksgiving ascends to Heaven, when one of these children of
nature finds refuge beneath the Cross, and grace commences its refining process upon the heart! Humble,
contrite, and devout, and the change is visible to all.
The blanket, as worn by the Indian, is a formidable
barrier to his advance in arts or agriculture; when this
is forever dispensed with, then his hands will be free to
grasp the mechanic's tools or guide the plow. It is both
graceful and chaste in their eye, and to adopt the white
man's costume, is a great obstacle to their becoming
Christians; a requisition too humiliating, for they have
personal as well as national pride.
Observation and experience alone impart a correct
idea of the trials and privations incident to missionary
life among the Indians. Rigid self-denial, close economy
in expenditures, and isolation from society, are comparative trifles. Parental anxieties, while the plastic mind
of childhood is receiving impress from the rude and vulgar, who know nothing of the refinements of the home
circle; and finally, a separation from these cherished objects of his tenderest love-these are heavy burdens
which oppress the heart of God's servants. It is no
marvel to one who has looked upon the field, that parents and children are so often separated, the latter being
sent to the States, and confided even to the care of
strangers. Parental love, the best good of the child, and
the missionary work demand the sacrifice. 
i'2 
STUDY OF INDIAN CIIARAC~TER.
In a little time I was flattered into the belief of having become something of a favorite. I was certainly an
object of curiosity. The chief showeed me special attention, calling often, and shaking hanads in a warm, friendly
mannier.  I had ingratiated myself into his favor, by acting upon the advice of the captain, and bestowing attentions upon the child of his favorite wife.  The women
examined and commented upon the various articles of
my dress, and the children would bring me wild fruit
and flowers; and one evening, enjoying at my window
"the sober twilight gray," two young braves did me the
honor of a serenade.
In preparations for their "summer hunt," everything
that would produce a sound was brought out, and dancing, drumming, and chanting, and finally a drunken row
occupied the most of the night.
After some delay, and not until the sun was high in
the heavens, did the canoe fleet put out for the opposite
shore, leaving a "deserted village" behind.  The horses
were made to swimn along side.  When in the channel,
it became evident to us they were drowning, and Dr.
Williamson and his little son, springing into a canoe,
hastened to the rescue, and saved their beasts, for which
no gratitude was manifested.
A few days previously, one of the children of the
mission family having gone to the river for water, for
convenience stepped into a canoe, and while he stooped to
dip the water, it became detached from the shore, and in
a moment was moving rapidly down the stream. Ile
being unable to use the paddle, and the male members
of the family being absent, his mother and aunt, in great
distress, implored the Indian women to go for him; but
they only laughed at their fears.  At last, upon  the
4
73 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
thought that they waited for a pledged reward —" Go, I
will pay you well," was no sooner uttered, than enough
were ready to seize the paddle, and the most dextrous
hand soon reached the fugitive canoe, and returned the
afgrighted boy to the no less afrighted friends.
Since 1824, Dr. Williamson has devoted himself to
the Sioux. Hie was a native of North Carolina, and impressed with the evil of slavery, and to free himself from
its curse, emigrated to Ohio.  HIe had an interesting
family, and a flourishing practice as physician; but a
voice continually thundered upon his conscience, "Go,
preach the Gospel " to the red man.  hIis wife, unknown
to him, was impressed with'the same duty, and all he
was, and all he possessed, he laid upon the altar of the
Lord. Hiis sister, too, gave up all of earth, and became
a valuable co-worker in the unpromising field, but all rejoice in the sacrifice they have made for Christ.
74 
CIIAPTER XV.
BURIAL RITES.
LITTLE rude enclosures met the eye in whatever direction it was turned, and these were the resting places of
the departed. On the summit of the bluffs, in the rear
of the mission house, were many strange looking objects
with a small red flag fluttering over each. With a half
superstitious dread, I refrained from inquiring, in hopes
that accident might acquaint me with their nature and
design.  A  strange, unearthly lamentation, proceeding
from this direction one night, disturbed my midnight
slumbers. The wail of a lost spirit could scarcely be
imagined more horrid. In alarm I awoke Miss W. to
learn the cause.
"It is a poor Indian woman weeping at the grave of
her son," was the reply.
"Not at those graves just in the rear of the house?
The sound, to my ear, comes from a greater distance. I"
"Have you not noticed the red flags on the bluffs, and
the bodies elevated on those scaffolds? There the dead
are first laid to rest, and thence this'mourning' comes."
"And are they ever removed from there?"
"Yes, when the days of mourning are past."
"How long does this last?"
"The time may be longer or shorter, according to the
violence of grief.  The more violent, the sooner over.
Therefore, they lacerate their flesh with knives, stones,
etc., that they may the more freely and readily weep. They
[75] 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
are Nature's children, and Nature, they say, utters sounds
correspondent to feeling or suffering.  If the limb of a
tree falls, its groan is echoed by the surrounding forest.
Oh, my sister, who will arise, and help to lead them to
the true source of happiness and wisdom!"
It is a new idea, but it strikes me as perfectly accordant with the dictates of nature, and I have ever observed
that the most violent grief is of brief duration. There
is no bitterness like silent, concealed, suppressed sorrow.
Now, is it not better, and more consistent with our duty
to the world, that we give vent to the sorrows of the
heart; arise from stupor, and gird the soul anew for conflict. "But, tell me, please, how they contrive to keep the
dead bodies from becoming offensive?"
"They are wound up in bark, in a manner they understand, enveloped in their blankets, and with much
harangue, feasting and the like, elevated to those positions.  That they may pursue their favorite employment in the spirit world, their implements of hunting
are deposited with them.  The red flag is an ensign of
dignity or position. In time they will all be consigned
to the earth in the family enclosure, and there wait the
summons to the judgment."
Until a late hour the wail was continued, and even before it had ceased, I was again in unconscious slumber,
dreaming of perilous positions, and the screams of suffering men and women. I awoke with a resolution to attempt an insight into their burial rites, and for this purpose directed my morning walk up the bluff.
The footprints of departed generations, in intersecting
trails, led me on. In the deep ravines, dark shadows
played, and the wild birds caroled their morning song in
the dense foliage.  The sun threw his beams aslant the
76 
BURIAL RITES.
flower-clad earth, but my soul was sad in view of the
dense pall of moral night that rested upon those whose
soil we trod. The heart instinctively arose to Heaven,
imploring the cheering rays from the Sun of Righteousness to dawn upon them.
I found it quite impossible to obtain any further knowledge of their time-honored custom, and convinced that
I must remain content with what I was permitted to see, I
passedi on to several enclosures.
At the head of each grave was the sacred stone, and,
by many, some little memento of affection, as a small
dish of salt, or wild rice, was placed there to appease
the evil spirit that might be lurking around. In a
thoughtless moment I sent the "wakan " rolling down
the bluff.  The act recalled my wandering senses, and I
half superstitiously dreaded the result of my wanton
disrespect for their sacred dead. Visiting the spot a few
days later, we found that the wvandering shrine had been
replaced, and no serious consequences had come upon the
aggressor.
77 
CHAPTER XVI.
GROVE MEETING AT RED ROCK.
ONE Saturday evening, while gazing with delight upon
the rose-tinted sky, glowing in a gorgeous sunset, the
mind absorbed in rich day-dreams of its own creation, a
messenger announced that a "canoe awaited my order."
It had been dispatched from Red Rock, where a "grove
meeting" was to be held the following day.  At such an
hour no ride could have been more desirable, and going
down stream there was no fear of sea-sickness. Our
field for admiration was rich and varied, and in the
ecstacy of enjoyment we too soon came to the terminus
of our ride.
At a primitive cottage of respectable size, overshadowed with ancient oaks, and enlivened on all sides
with golden-hued and modest forest flowers, a western
welcome awaited us, western hospitality was tendered,
with a rich fund of western entertainment. Alas I the
musketoes!  These were  serious  drawbacks  on  all
social enjoyments; but most affecting the "new comer,"
an "old settler" being little temptation to them.  WVhen
their bites became no longer endurable, there was a resort to the "smudge," and thus alternating between musketoes and smudge, unable to decide on a preference,
every approachable portion of the body received their
mark, and the eyes were useless from the smoke.
Happily, the days of musketoes, in the older portions
[78] 
GROVE MEETING AT RED ROCK.
of the country, have passed by, and are remembered
only as among the things that were.
Red Rock Prairie, three miles belo6w "Crow Village,"
now Koposia, on the east side of the river, takes its name
from a large red stone there, formerly worshiped by the
native, or rather a shrine at which he worshiped.  A
red stone, whether such by nature or paint, is "wakan"
(sacred) wherever  found.   Formerly  the Methodists
had a mission station here, which was abandoned after a
few years, while those employed as farmers, mechanics,
and teachers, remained enjoying the privileges of first
citizenship.
No  longer is the bark " lodge," or conical teepee, seen
upon this beautiful prairie, and here their council fire is
for ever extinguished.  Here, from within a circuit of
thirty or forty miles, about the same number of persons
assembled on Sabblath morning, where the bread of life
was to be broken.  Ah! how  little do Christians, in
lands where the Gospel banner is fully unfurled, witl
their costly temples dedicated to God's worship, realize
their high and heaven-born blessings!  How little do
they know the privations, toils, and self-denials of those
who remove the rubbish, "break the fallow ground,"
and sow the first seed for the spiritual harvest! 
One Methodist minister, and one retired Presbyterian
missionary, prealching occasionally, were, at this time, all
who proclaimed the glad tidings to the citizens of MAinnesota.  On this occasion, the first-mentioned, with the
Sioux missionary, officiated. The little assembly was
quiet and attentive, for it embraced most of the true
worshlipers dwelling in the vicinity.
A sacred awe seemed to inspire those green old trees
as they wafted the hymn of praise which rose from that
79
0 
LATER SETTLEfMENTS.
band, seated on rough boards in front of the speaker's
stand; an offering not less acceptable for beiing presented
in "God's first great temple!"
Language is too sterile to give full force to the newly
awakened emotions of that day.  Shadowy visions of the
future flitted before me, brightened by such buoyant hope
that I would not have resigned nmy isolated position for
a sceptre and a crown.
Nature, already in her loveliest robes, had donned an
additional glory, and with heart tuned to the measure
of her glad song, on the following morning I embarked
on my return.
For a little time my soul drank in the beauties of the
scene, quaffing larger drauglhts at every view.  But,
alas! every pleasure has its alloy, and as if to admonish
me that earth is nowhere heaven, I was soon wholly
occupied with the miseries of sea-sickness.
The power of speech being well nigh gone, in compliance with my signified wish, the prow of the canoe
was turned to the shore, and we landed on the margin of
a dense thicket.  Around, wildness and beauty reigned,
each striving for supremacy. Flowers were rejoicing in
their own loveliness; vines, which in other lands adorn
the mansions of the rich, here clung to the trunks of
giant trees, or were interwoven with brush and bush,
forming beautiful native bowers.
My position was ludicrously novel, and spiced with a
degree of romance not altogether repulsive, and had I
not been divested of the power, I should have indulged in
a hearty laugh.  But upon the thought that a hungry
wolf or bear might chance to pass, I signified my wish
to proceed; and supported on each side by two anxious
cavaliers, both of whom insisted on carrying an umn
80 
GROVE 3MEETING AT RED ROCK.
brella, althoughi the density of the foliage precluded the
possibility of a sunbeam's approach, we "worked our
passage" through the thick "undergrowth," and after a
walk  of a mile, were  truly gratified to rest at the
"mission lodge," feeling, of a truth, that another rich
page was added to our chapter of adventures.,
4*
81 
CHAPTER XVII.
ENTERING UPON DUTY.
THE arrival of a steamer at the time of which we write
was not of daily, nor weekly, nor scarcely of semimonthly occurrence, and the sound of its high pressure
in this land of silence would reach the ear at a distance
of eight or ten miles. The sun had just looked over the
bluff, and was peeping in at my window, when the welcome sound greeted my ear. I had been anxiously
waiting to return to St. Paul, where "all things were
now ready," but had shrunk at the remembrance of seasickness from a canoe-ride up stream.   Joyfully did I
hasten my toilet, and await the "Argo." Now day had
dawned, not only in the natural world, but in my  life,
and a golden sun heralded a triumphant progress.  Its
first tintings on the eastern horizon disclosed the faint
outlines of the future; but its onward course revealed
objects more and more beautiful. The dreams and
yearnings of my childhood had now reached the dawn
of fruition, and Hope was by my side to tell of coming
scenes.
It seemed to me the trees had never worn so rich a
foliage, nor the flowers smiled so lovingly, as when again
I trod that grass-grown street, and received the spontaneous greetings of the youthful crowd-a welcome to
their homes and hearts! Nor were my emotions less
pleasing when  I "learned to stoop," and entered that
memorable mud- walled log hovel, a primitive blacksmith's
shop, where those young minds were to receive impressions for immortality.
[82] 
ENTERING UPON DUTY.
Some wooden pins had been driven into the logs,
across which rough boards were placed for seats.  r[he
luxury of a chair was accorded to the teacher, and a
cross-leg,ged table occupied the center of the loose floor.
Such were the evidences of transforming power, where
the moulding of iron was to give place to the mouldilng
of mind.  As a "light shining in a dark place," I sa,w
two fair childlike faces amid the dark, forbidding group
convened within those decaying log walls; but another,
and yet another, was added to brighten this oasis in the
desert of life.
To procure means for ablution was one of my  first
duties; and in due time a portion of the unnatural darkness disappeared, and revealed a skin tinted with other
than native American blood. A ftull rehearsal of duties
of that room might offend the delicate ear, and we withhold the details.  Soon, all was bright and joyous.  Our
domicile was converted into a rural arbor, fragrant evergreens concealing the rude walls, with their mod chink-l
ings, and even the bark roof.  A friendly hen, unwilling
to relinquish her claim, on the ground of preoccupancy,
daily placed a token of her industry in the corner, and
made all merry with her loud cackle and abrupt departure.  Snakes sometimes obtruded their heads through
the floor, rats looked in at the open door, and dark faces
were continually obscuring the windows. An old pitcher,
minus the handle, received the rarest specimens of wild
flowers, from  which  our "center  table" exhaled  a
generous perfume. In front, and at our feet, flowed in
silent majesty the Father of Waters, with two beautiful
green islands reposing on its bosom, which have since
been named Raspberry and Harriet* Isles.
* This name is from the author of this work,
.7. 
8LATER SETTLEMENTS.
Why should I pine for halls of science and literature,
when such glorious privileges were mine-when to my
weak hand was accorded the work of rearing the fabric
of educational interests in the unorganized territory-of
establishing the first citizen-school within its undefined
limits! True, since the erection of the fort there had
been a garrison-school, taught by the chaplain, under pay
of government, and praiseworthy zeal had been mani fested by the laborious missionaries in their labor of love
among the red children of the plains; and in one or two
instances a few weeks of teaching had been performed in
families; but nothing of this sort was permanent.  Now
had commenced a work which was to continue so long as
there was a youth to educate, and when the hand that
laid the "corner-stone" should have been for ages mouldering in the dust. There was not a spot in earth's broad
domain that could have tempted me to an exchange.
True, I was far from former friends and home, contending with a rough world, but it was not heartless. The
law of kindness ruled every heart, the avenues of which
were not closed by vice. In health, my wishes were anticipated, so far as limited means would allow; and when
acclimating sickness fell upon me, I was watched with
anxious eyes, kind hands bathed my burning cheek, and
smoothed the pillow for my aching head.
Society was, indeed, limited, but nature supplied the
deficiency. With her I held sweet council, and feasted
upon her rich charms. Vigils were prolonged beneath
her stately trees, and converse with flowers in their own
pure language.   The Mississippi, glittering with leer
thousand diamonds when "the silent moonbeams fell,"
inspired the soul with new enthusiasm, and thus life's
bitter waters were changed to sweet,
84  
~~~I  ~;~;
<j/~~~////~~~~~~~~~ 1I
t
'I
1
- i 
CHAPTER XVIII.
THiE FIRST SABBATHi SCHOOL.
THE duties of the first week in school were over, and
books were deposited upon the rough shelf.   The open
Bible, from whlich we had just read, lay upon the table.
The eyes of all were upon their teacher, awaiting the closing exercise.  She trembled, in view of her responsibility
and the proposal she was about to make.  She had assumed voluntarily a position fraught with momentous
consequences, however it might be viewed by the world.
She was the only professing Christian in the communLLity,
and religious teaching had been wholly neglected.  No
sacred house of prayer and praise witnessed the assembling of the people on the Sabbath.  Thougoh disposed to
allow every one to enjoy his own opinion, provided he
interfered not with others, the inhabitants of St. Paul
were, in the main, scoffers at religion.  For a singlehanded and lone female to occupy a distinct and decided
position in such a community, was no trifling work. IIer
actions would be misunderstood, her words misinterpreted,
and the devices of Satan would beset her on every land.
Do you wonder that she trembled, and found no strength
in herself, and that, but for an invisible presence, she
would have shrunk entirely from the new duty.
"Childrenl," said she, " I remember when I was a very
little girl, and went to Sunday school, that I read in a
little book of a young lady who went to visit some
friends a long way from her home, where the children
[85s 
LATER SETTLEMEENTS.
had never heard of a Sunday school. She invited themn
to come together to form one, and they soon learecd to
love it very much; and she, too, vwas very happy in instructiang them; and a great deal of good resulted from it.
"Even when a child I often wished for a similar position, but I did not then expect it.  While I am with
you I wish to do you all the good I can, and therefore
wvish you to obtain your parent's permission to come
here next Sabbath, anid we will have a Sunday School.
AVill you come?"
The children looked at each other inquiringly, and
one little girl, with meek blue eyes, timidly asked  "WhVat is Sunday school?"
"Is it not," says another, "where they study the
Bible, and learn of the Saviour?"
"And  would you not like to knoxv more of the
Saviour, and be one of the school? "' said the teacher.
"0! very much, and mother will be glad to have us
come," said one.
Another said she "would come if the priest would let
her."  The boys preferred to go fishing, but finally consented to come for one hour.  A  lesson was given out,
an interpreter engaged for those who needed, and we
tremblingly awaited the approach of the trial Sabbath.
The day proved dark and rainy; but there was a
gleam of pleasure in the eyes of the seven children who
composed the first SUhNDAY SCIIOOL in St. Paul.  With
no ordinary delight the teachler saw that some special
preparations had been made, for the soiled and torn
dress of the day previous had been carefully washed and
mended. One half-breed woman was present as visitor;
and we know, that however unpromising the prospect,
one heart throbbed with happiness inexpressible. It was
86 
TI1E FIRST SABBATH SCIIOOL.
a day of peace and joy, and I occupied a position which
I would not resign for tihe most exalted on earth.  (July
25, 1847.)
The following extract from the records of the "First
Baptist Sunday School" in St. Paul, is firom thie pen of
its worthy Secretary, E. G. Barrows,  and is a fifitlful
portraiture of the commencement and surrounldings of
the first effort:
"The  beginning  of our  Siunday Schlool-the first
SuLnday Schiool establishedc in Minnlesota*-was made by
Miss HARRIET E. BISHOP, on Sunday, the 25th of July,
1847.  The school was commenced in a little log hovel,
covered with bark, and chinked with mud, previously
used as a blacksmith's shop.  It contained but one small
room, about ten by twelve.  On three sides of the interior of this humble log cabin, pegs were driven into
the logs, upon whichi boards were laid fo)r seats. Anotlher
seat was made by placing one end of a plank between the
cracks of tihe logs, and the other upon a chair.  This was
for visitors, in case any should straggle in.  A rickety
cross-legg,ed table in the center, and a hec's nest i( one
corner, completed the furniture.
"There were seven scholars that day-three white chiildren and four half-breedcls, and one visitor, a half-breed
woman.  It was necessary to have an interpreter. A large
half-breed girl was found who could speak English,
French, and Sioux.t  The second Sunday there were
but four scholars; a circumstance which looked discouragi(ng. An interest was awakened on the subject,
and the third Sabbath the room was filled.  There were
about twenty-five children, besides a number of visitors
* The first permanently established.
t All of which were then spoken.
87 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
who came to witness the novelty of a Sunday school,
for, be it remembered, at that time, not only Sunday
schools, but C'Yurc1es were unknown in St. Paul.
" Here the school was continued until November, ancl
then removed (with thie dclay school) to a small frame buildiI-g on the bluff, near the lower landing.  Througih  the
winter, the school was sustained by the personal efforts
of Miss B., who, notwithstanding the severe cold, walked
every Sabbath  morning from her residence, near the
American House (nearly a mile), to this little building,
rmade a fire, and waited for the half-frozen little ones to
come, and when they were sufficiently warmed, taugiht
them the same precious and beautiful truths that we learn
in our Sunday school, without fee or reward, except tile
blissful consciousness of doing her duty.
"To Miss B. belongs tihe credit of commencing and sustaining, for a year, unassisted, a Sunday school in a then
almost unknown wilderness, and she is still among us.
*            *          
"In the summer of 1848, Deacon A. It. Cavrender came
to reside in St. Paul, and afforded much  assistance in
these arduous labors.  lIe was the first superintendent,
and has ever since been identified with its progress and
prosperity.
"In the autumn of 1848, the school was removed to
the new school-house the first in the Territory, and here
continued until the fall of 1850, wheni it numbered nearly
seventv-five members.  Other denoninations had, in the
meantime, come in and taken an interest in this work,
among whom were Rev. E. D). Nieil, Presbyterian, and
IRev.  B. F. Hoyt,  Methodist.    Churches  had  been
organized, and a division was decided upon.  Presbyterians and Methlodists formed separate schools, leaving
88 
TiE FIRST SABBATH SCIIOOL.
the Baptist school in possession of the school-house an(i
a  small library, and something over one-third of the
scholars..
"Our house of worship was completed in the fall of
1851, and thlither the school removed.     *      *     *
"It has been our purpose to sketch the bcjiirfie, that
when our little streamlet sl-hall become a broad and flowing river, the curious may trace it back to its hlumble
fountain."
In 18o50, the Sunday school interest was revived by a
visit to the Territory of Rev. Dr. Babcock, agent of the
American Sunday-Schlool Union, and schools have since
been springing up all over the land, nor can their importance be overrated.
In strange, but pleasing contrast with the Fourth of
July, 1848, was the Fourth of July, 1856. On the latter
day the various schools of St. Paul, comprising mnore
than five hundred scholars, wearing floral wreaths and
printed badges, formed, with the citizens, a procession of
more than a mile in length, and headed by a brass band,
wound through the principal streets to "Great Brook
Grove," where public exercises were conducted in the
most satisfactory and approved manner. The speakers'
stand was decorated with flowers, and a table, sumptuously spread, groaned beneath its burden. When summary justice had been done to the eatables, the grove
rang with merriment, and hundreds of youthful voices
testified their unrestrained joy on the occasion. All this
we saw, where, on the first-menltioned day, the wolf was
howling over the still smoking embers of the red man's
council fire.  In view of all these changes, we could not
but exclaim, "It is the Lord's doings, and marvelous in
our eyes."
89 
C:IAP TE R XIX.
" Come quick, and see an Indian dance," slhouted half
a dozen eager, bright-eyed, rosy-cheeked  little girls, rush ing into my room.
It needed no repetition, and " all eager I hastened the
scene to behold." "But, what? where? wlhere are they?"
I inquired, as I saw nothing unusual-nothing answering
to the descriptions of an "Indian dance," of which I had
so often heard.
"WVhy, down there among  the trees; don't you see
them?" they exclaimed, pointiing at the same time to
where the brook wound its way amid the dark foliage;
and there, dodgoi g among the trees, in hasty preparations
for somethling, were scores of half nude forms.
"You don't call that a dance surely?"
"No, not yet; but they are getting ready for one; you
see they are painting themselves; they'll come up pretty
soon.  You see they use the water for a looking glass."
Finding it was only thie yre)ccraefon for a "dance " that
I had been called to witness, we returned to discuss a
waiting dinner, leaving the dancers to cornplete their
toilet.  Soon the focus of attraction was a circle of these
fantastically painted and gayly ornamented beings, seated in their own peculiar nmanner, withl feet crossed, and
in the center stood their chief, Shaekopee, makinig a
speech.  Hie was enthusiastically cheered at the termination of each sentence by the usual guttural "ugh ughl."
A rich, full inltonlation gave an eloquent flow of sound,
[9o]
I-,\TDIAN DANCE. 
INDIA-N D I)ANCE.
and his powers of oratory stood confessed(, thoughli the language was not LLunderstoodcl.  His design,  hLowever, was to
stimulate his band to deeds of virtuous daring and hatred
to enemies; and he closed with an assurance to the whites
lwho stood around, that they sought not for whiskey in
the " begging dance " about to commence, but food and
clotlhing, thou ghi they would not refuse a little wine!
I passed on to the school-room, where  order was
scarcely restored when a train of one hiundred and fifty
stalwart men drew up directly in front, formingl the ring
for the dance.  It was truly an imposing scene, in whichl
the weaker sex were not allowed to join.  No " wortan's
rights principles "tolerated there!  BLut they seemed fully
to participate in the enjoyment, and rejoice in the privile,,ge of spectators.  MIoving round and round, each man
strikes his heels into the earth, which is soon beat firmly,
the limbs and muscles all keeping timse with tihe deep
guttural sound and the nmuffled bass drum.   At well uniderstood intervals, each strikes his lhand upon his mouth,
sending forth shrill notes, which once heard are never
forgotten, though no language can convey a just idea
of them.
Now, as by common consent, with no apparent signal,
they draw off in a straight line, passing on to the next
prearranged point; so continuing during the day,  and
on some occasions for days, or until their strength is exhiausted. Presents of blankets, flour, and pork, of considerable value, are often made them, which the performers divide among themselves.
On this occasion, the dancers were in the acme  of
excitement, and presents were fast accumulating, when a
voice came booming across the river, bidding them cease
their pleasures and prepare for revenge. A company of
Chippewas had come upon their deserted village, and a
91 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
brother and son had been killed, and the scalps carried
off in triumph, the informant having "alone escaped to
tell them."   Alas! what consternation seized them 
There was an unceremonious hurrying to and fro, with
strong desires for revenge legible on every countenance.
Curses and bitter threats were heard instead of shouts of
hilarity, and the women, who could not en,gage in the
revel, were now flying through the street, panting to
draw the reeking knife from the heart of a Chippewa,
and exhibit the scalp as a trophy of victory.
The warriors and braves hastened to the deposit of
canoes, and dextrously plied the paddle for up-stream,
leaving the old men and women to make their way home,
thirty miles distant, as best they might. The whole affair
proved to be a bold but successful intent to break up the
scene of revelry.
The "begging dance" was afterward, until the removal
of the tribe, of frequent occurrence in our streets, being
quite a lucrative business to the performers.
One of the most novel and ludicrous performances of
the kind I ever witnessed was by a company of some
fifty boys, from ten to fifteen years old, under the tutelage
of old lIock-e-wash-ta. They were in the gala of "full
dress," or rather un-dress, and were not the most submissive to discipline. The mouth of the old decrepit, deposed
chief was drawn to a " broad grin" as he gave orders
and witnessed the progress of his refractory pupils. In
spite of scolding and coaxing, the boys would frequently
fly off at a tangent, and the tin-pan music failed in its
harmonizing design. Oh I how my heart pitied these
poor boys, untrained in the ways of virtue, and inured
from infancy to vice; while nought but the ball, the
dance, the dive, or the chase, could arouse them from the
lethargy in which their minds were sunk!
92 
CHAPTER XX.
AN OFFER OF MARRIAGE.
THE first year of pioneer life was full of novelty. A
charm seemed to pervade my whole experience. True,
a cruel thorn would sometimes pierce my  unpracticed
feet, but it had been hidden by a sweetly-fragTant rose,
and a healing balm was applied by an unseen hand. Not
the shadow of a "cloud as big as a man's hand" fell
upon my heart, however darkl my path. Sickness prostrated; but kind hands smoothed the pillow, leaving no
actual want unsupplied.  If there be truth in the lines,
"Man's inhumnanity to man
Makes countless thousands mourn,"
it was not yet applicable to the people of Minnesota, who
abounded in
"The patience of hope, and the labor of love."
And it must be borne in mind that St. Paul was a
small trading post, giving yet no sign of its unprecedented
growth. The council-fire of the red men was but just
extinguished on the east, and was still brightly blazing
on the west side of the river.  Our village was almost
daily thronged with them, where they frequently encamped in larger numbers than the entire adult male
population of the territory.   Tragic scenes were often
enacted by them when intoxicated and provoked by the
[9s] 
LATER SETTLEA[EN TS.
fraud and impositions practiced upon them by thie un principled whiskey seller.
A  drunlken Indian is tlhe most loathlsome, fiendishl
being that ever wore the "image of his malker."   Alas!
we can scarcely believe humanlity could be so fPllen,
even in thle savage state!
l'Lhe Indians are flattered withl attention, and often be come exceedingly obtrusive and presuLming, where it iA
bestowed. From my debut in St. Paul, they had regardedl
me with a curious eye, and bestowed upon me the appel lation of -Voa-wan-pa  AVa-ma-don-ka  -Vash-ta (good
book woman).   Amoong  the many who lhonored  my
"teepee " with a call, was one of unusually commandingaill
appearance, and of proud, gilaceful, and dignified bearimg.  Ihis profuse ornaments were exhibited for special
admiration, and a smile, a pleasant recognition, or a cordial shake of the balud was always ready.  ELarly one
morning, having been unusually careful in makinlg hii
toilet, so that in his ownI eyes ihe was perfectly irresistible,
be called upon me.
Besides the ordinary costume of calico slirt, cloth
"leggins," and "breechlot," and tlhe blanlket whichl, in
careless negligence grace-fully ensliroudcd his person, 1he
wore a huge brass bracelet scoured to un\wouted brightness, and a bear's claw appended to his numerous silver
ear-drops, an additional number of finger-rings, and a
heavy mass of wiamnipum about his neck, while a new
ribbon of scarlet flannerl ornamented his loig, braided,
black hair, from which waved two pea-fowl feathers, and
his embroidered  "leggins" were fastened  with higlhcolored bead-wroughit ties.
Iis deep, sonorous voice sounded in the outer room,
and by a glance at tlhe aperture of the door, as it stood
94 
AN OFFER OF MIAR1RIAGE.
ajar, his graceful movements were visible as he loaded
hIis massive red-stone pipe witih  "kineriknick," and
proceeded to glight it.  Tihis pipe was liihlly polisihed,
curiously wrought, and so iecavil  inla.ld witl lead tlhat,
wilhen used, it was rested on tlhe grolund.
An unusual brightness lurled ill is eye as lie drew a
whliff or two thlroughi the stei, tlree feet long, and richily
and ingeniously wrouo-it witlh  ig,hlly-colored porcupine
quills, and then passed it until it had macde a circuit of
the family-a reassurance of peace and frilendsip.  Durilg this preamble, a pair of eagle eyes were constantly
peering into my sanLctum; and I was about to close and
secure tihe door, whenl, with the silent movement of a cat,
lie threwv it open, profrered ils hand in morning salutation; with a careless, easy grace, took a seat directly in
front, and, wiithi  those same  eagle  eyes scanning  me
thiroughl and thirougl, commenced a spirited and animnated
"talk "-of course in an unlknownl tonLgue.  The expressive pantomime be-spoke thie importance of tihe subject.
Tlhe good lady, knlowing thle trepidation of her boarder,
came to the "rescue."   Departing from the customary
manner of wooing, he said, "Say to Woa-wan-pa AVamta-da-ka tilhat she must be my  wife."  In vain it was
urged thlat he had one, and ouglht not to have ianotler.
"All tihe band liave as many as they can keep, and I
have but  one," was his reply.   "'She shall have the
best corner of tlae lodg,e, and tie dark squaw sihall pack
thie wood acnd water, plant and  lioe the corn; wAvhite
squaw may ride by my side in the hunt, and tlhe other
shall carry the game, set tihe'teepee,' and cook the foodcl
and hush thle pappoose, while w2ite squatt, cts Weti qi. c.~
Arguments irresistible!  To be permitted to ctt w-itlh nmy
lord! to be first in tlile lodge!  But thlen, to have anothler
95 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
claiming, even a menial's fare as a right, and regarding
mine as her lawrful lord and mraster, mighlt, and doubtless
would, awaken the "green-eyed nmonster," and I was incorri,ible. "Then when she is dead," said he, for lihe
declared she was dclying with consumption, and could not
possibly live more than two or three "moons;" but Iat
last, finding that no arrangement could be made, lie
begged  "a  dollar to buy  a new  shirt," and wA-ith a
haughty, defiant air took leave.  The next time I sawv
O,eola, he was howliing in loathsome drunkenness, like a
fallen beast, unable to rise, having sought a position ior
my especial benefit; and he was frightful to gaze upoln,
but too drunk to fear.  After this, his visits became frequLent; but in manner he was insolent, seeking to annoy
where be could not intimidate, expressing his contempt
for squaws in general, and "white squaws" in particular.
The last time I saw him was just before his tribe took up
their march towards the setting sun.  lIe came withl the
same wife who, six years before, was so near the "spiritland," supposing, no doubt, that the past had become
oblivious to "white woman."
A similar, though more persevering course of wooinig
formed a chlapter in the experience of my associate, two
or thlree years later.   A  young warrior had seen and
been pleased with her, and perhiaps encouraged fi'oin
some attention she thoughtlessly bestowed, made frequeint
calls at the houLse.  Unacquainted with Indian character
and, customs (for shle had been but a few weeks in tlhe
AW,est), she one day gave hLim a ring, in hopes that he would
be less troublesome. Mistaking her design, he, in return, presented her withl a trifling ornament he had worn,
which, being accepted, was to him a tacit "engagement;"
and, through an interp.reter, he told her titat he would
I
96 
AN OFFER OF MARRIAGE.
return and tale her to his loJdge tlhe next day.  She,
however, thoughlt no more of the matter until lie came
indeed to claim his "squaw," and urged his righit wviti
all the eloquence of wordls and pantom-ime.  The second
doy he returned with five or six young braves, prepared
to take by compulsion what was his by right; and, but
for timely interference and explanation, the consequences
mighlt hlave been serious.
5
9)7 
CHAPTER XXI.
IT was by the family of J. R. Irvine that I had been
first welcomed, and in whose house' I found a homeie. The
reader who has visited St. Paul will hardly believe that
theirs was so recently the only dwelling in Upper Town,
or that the site of the spacious" American" near that
dwelling was then a dense swamp of hazel bushies, and
that the ground of the superb " Vinslow," and all the
fine buildings around it, was covered with huge forest
trees.  The brook, which rippled in tihe deep shade, is
turned into lead pipes, and has forgotten its ceaseless
song of yore.  The trees have disappeared beneath the
woodman's ax, and the countless throng thread the
graded streets where for centuries they had stood.
One hallowed tree the ax has spared, for beneath its
shade we laid to rest the youngest pet-lamb of the family,
and we almost fancy we hear the "angel whispers"
among the flowers on that little mound.
It was a lovely morning, in spring, when one little one
"kissed mamma, good bye," lisped it to her sisters, and
went home with one of her neighbors.  There, in an
ecstacy of glee with a sportive kitten, she seated herself
in a pan of glowing coals.  O! ask me not to depict that
scene! In less than two weeks of suffering, heartsickening to behold, Hleaven received the treasure.
"Deatli found strange beauty on that cherub brow,
And dashed it out."
[98]
PROGRESS. 
PROGRESS.
"What would'st thou, mother, for thy darling?
Could'st askl a greater boon thban Heaven's bliss?"
The autumn  of l147 had brought some acquisitions to
the society of St. PauLl, so that the Americanll populatiorn
consisted of six, instead of three, families.  A few neat
frame cottages wiere-erected, and a log-cabin, wAitlh three
rooms, speedily grew to the spacious " Aierclhant's Hiotel,"
and in it Mr. J. W. Bass opened and kept the first re,guilar
public house.  His you,ng and accomplished wife, with a
fuind of good sense and native dignity and grace, presided
over her department with wisdom rarely exceeded, and
established the fact that a frontier log-cabin can be as
deservedly popular as the Irving, or Astor.   The testimiony of those who knew her then is, that she shone no
less the star of her household than wlhen, at a later clay,
she was surrounded by all the luxulries of wealth andcl
fashlion.
AWith the other arrivals of this season was that of
Dr. John Dewey, brother of ex-Governor Dewey, of Wisconsin.  The community hailed him with joy, for hithlerto
they had laboumled under much inilconvenience for tlhe
vwant of a physician.  He was a young man, just graduated from Albany MAledical College, possessing skill in
his profession.  Thus, piovision was made for the healingi
of bodily maladies, but who should attend to those of the
soul?  Eachl alternate Sabbath a motley throng gathereod
from far and near at the cross-surmoulfted building,
where the deluded, ignorant people were instructed to
avoid, as a pestilence, the Protestant Sunday-school, and(l
in the midst of such innovation to be more zealous fer
the "tre ft."
Will there ever be a church built here? will faithful
99
I 
LATERP SETTLE,IENTS.
gospel watchmlen ever stand upon this ground? and will
there ever be here a people whlo shliall fear God?-were
the frequent and anxious inquiries of the bheart.  And
shall the runm-traffic ever cease? and will thlere be even
one man whlo shall dare stand up boldly in defense of
temperance?  These were mental interrogatories to be
answeredl in dclue time.  I now  learned an important
lesson-that we are not to look for the "'full Corn  an the
c(Ir: as soon,s the seed was sown.
i00 
CLIAPTER  XXII.
THIE FIRST SCHOOL-IIOUSE.
TIE first winter closed in upon us.  No longer were
vwe to be greeted by the semi-monthly ringing of the
steanmboat bell, for the river was fast bound in icy fctters.
:ools were the coinpanions that enlivened the solitude
of our eve-nings.   The social pleasuares of the vicinity
were mergecl ill a weekly ball for those who enjoyed
what, according to the report of the parties, was little
else than, in westerni parlance, a " whliisley hoe-down."
Vfbat rational, social pleasure can we de,vise that shl
elevate the moral tone of society?-was the theme of cdiscussion, when Joseph R. Bowroln, of St. Croiox, proposed
that a "Ladies' Sewing Societyv " be instituted, to aid in
the erection of the proposed sehool-hiouse, and for our
encouragenment generously pledged 810 for a comm-iencemenelt.  Accordingly, the "St. Paul Circle of Industry 
was formed, with eight members, and several gentleman
as visitors.  These little circumstances erem important ill
the early histlory of this glorious country; andcl we remember, with an allowable pride, that the fyt%s payment
on the lumber for the first school-house wvas made with
money earned with the needle by the ladies of this "Circle." It was no marvel, then, that tMzey should feel a deep
interest in the work, or that some shouldl solicit subscriptions where men had failed of success; or ride to the
Fort for the presentation of so important a consideration,
and the secluing of $o50.
[10"] 
L-kTER SETTLE,"ILEI'NTS.
The specified object of tlhe buildliug was tie accommo
dclating of the school, elhurlch, court, occasional lectures,
elections, and, in sliort, all public gatllerinigs; withl the
expectation that an expenditure of $9300, on a buildin,g
twenty-five feet by thirty, would be all that would be reqiiired fur at least ten years.   We had not a precede-nt
in tlhe past for a guide, nor wAarrantalble fatithl for tlhe.
future.  Tlhe foundation was laid, the superstructure
reared, and with intense interest we wvatelied its tardy
progress, in joyful  anticipation of the time when we
should exchange the mud-walled hove], with its bark
roof, for the new commodious edifice.  But constant exposure from those damp walls, and at the bedside of a
dlying child, prostrated my physical energies; and wlhen,
just one year from my arrival, tlhe building was declared
finfAise(, I was on the bed of lingering illness; so that
for many weeks thereafter the echo of my footfall was
not heard within those walls. But the desired object
was attained, and the way  was thlus far prepared for
educational interests to muove forward.
In this emergency it was the desire of the PRev. Dr.  AT.
who bad ever exercised a father's care towards mc, that
I should be taken to the Mission, and thlougli I at first
demurred at being taken in a canoe, his kind words soonl
overcame the objection, and "old Betsey's" services were
secured.  Green boughs were placed in the canoe, covered
with an Indian blanket, a refreshing cordial prepared for
the way, and the good man's umbrella shielded my fevered
brow  froni the qun, as I reclined upon this primitive
couch.  The words of comfort and hope which he spoke
wvere as cooling water to the thirsty traveler in a desert
land.  He drew my attention to the tender vines, clinging
for protection to the stately trees beneath which our craft
102 
TilE FILST S IiOOL-IHOUSE.
was gliding; and "so," said he, " should owe cling to our
Father's arm."'  All things arounid us spoke in exalted(
strains of the love of " tIim who nmade them,": and I could
not feel sad; my heart responded to the cheerful scene.
A  few w,eeks of careful nsursing, and a trip to Galena,
fitted me to return in comparative health to my endeared
lhome and labors, where I found valuable accessions to
our society; anld with a new impetus and double zest, I
entered upon my duties in the rnew school room.
Stillwater, (nestled beneath the evening slhadows of a
high bluff on lake St. Croix,) at this time the declared
metropolis, had made early application to the Board of
lNational Popular Education for a teacher; and after nearly
a year's delay, obtained, though for only a brief period,
the valuable services of Miss Amaidcla Hosford, who soon
after became Mrs. Moss-a well educated and accomplishedcl lady, from my own Green AIountain State. WAith
becoming zeal the citizens addressed themselves to the
erection of a school-house, which, thoughi commenced
many months later than ours at St. Paul, was completed
but a few days after it.  By the efforts of the lady teacher,
a bell was soon pealing its clear tones from the belfry.
An  educational interest, never more to flag from this
period, was awakened in Minnesota, and the light of
Christian education began to irradiate its moral atmosphere.
One of the earliest acts of Congress, in reference to this
Territory, was the providing for the education of all
classes of the population by the appropriation of two sections of land in each township. And thus, as we may
hereafter see, has the little seed expanded into the mighty
tree, while many find a generous shelter beneath its extended boughs.
103 
LATER SLTTLEL{ENr-S.
In the spring of 1849, MAiss Mally A. Scofield joined our
feeble band of teachers, and was for a year associatedcl
with the writer at St. Paul.  A  second slchool-house was
built, aid ample means provided for the instruction of one
hundred and fifty pupils.
The law, organizing district schools, took effect in the
autuimn of 1850, and a school was first opened under its
auspices by Mr. D. A. J. Baker, an accomplished Necw
England teacher, whose peculiar tact rendered him  an
adept in the greatest, the noblest of all employments.
10o 
I 
_                                                       _                    ~~~~
__                                         ____       A             I;"!''':        
~                                                                                    ________             _____
"~         i ~<~~~~~~~
F.L,S OF ST. ANTTH)NY 
CHAPTER XXIII.
RUMi'S DOINGS.
ALAS!  the demoralizing influence of ardent spirits.
Nature had beautified our doma,in, but intemperanco was
laying waste its beauty, robbing the domestic circle of its
charms, making paths of quicksand for the feet of young
men, and more than brutalizing the poor ignorant native!
The bottle was the unfaiiling attend,ant on eveWy occasion
and stood confessed the lie of every co,2pctn/y.
Miy first visit to the Falls of St. Anthony, a few days
after my arrival in St. Paul, was made in company with
most of its first citizens, conveyed in such vehicles as
could be found, or on horseback, as we could best accomplish it.  I was enjoying greatly my first impressions, as
we rode over those pathless prairies and "openings," when
one of the horsemen approached our wagon and called
for the bottle.  I knew that we were well supplied with
refreshments, but had no idea that this constituted a part,
and novice as I was, expressed my surprise, remarking
"it was the first time in my life that I had ever been in
a company where it was used."
"Then," replied the gentleman with great suavity,
"you are entitled to the first drink," at the same time pre.
senting the bottle.
"No sir, thank you, unless you deliver it into my sole
charge."
"That could not be done," and of course a hearty laugh
was raised at my expense by the repartee of the gallant
cavalier.
5*                        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~[105j.
5*
[1051 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
At the Falls was a tiny log cabin, occupied by a lone
widow and her son, whose white disheveled hair evinced
premature age; and the secret was solved when we saw
her accept the proffered glass and quaff it to its dregs.
WVe were not surprised, a few months later, to learn she
had died of delirium tremens.
Cargo after cargo of whiskey was discharged upon the
dock during the season of navigation, which found its
way to the lumbermen of the pineries, the soldiers at the
garrison, and the lodge of the red man. Men would boast
of receiving five dollars a pint when it was scarce and
money plenty, immediately after the receiving of annuities; and thus, as they said, they would make quite a
little fortune from a barrel.  On one occasion several Indians of different bands had been indulging freely at one
of the stores, and s drunken affray ensued on the ground,
which was immediately fatal to one of the parties, and
resulted in the lingering death of the other.  Some of the
whites had, by stratagem, secured the tomahawks at the
commencement of the quarrel; but a concealed knife entered the heart of an assailant, and his antagonist hnimself
was stabbed in the back. While the latter survived there
were constant rumors of a civil war, which would have
been inevitable but for his death, or his deliverance to
the murdered man's friends, vho would have tortured
and finally killed him-the only condition of peace.
Said the father of this young manl, when he came to the
missionaries for condolence, "My son was a brave man,
and so has gone to the Good Spirit; yet my soul feels
very sad-it weeps all the time; I must lay him to rest;
I want him to rest well; it will take a large blanket to
cover him."  And in compliance with his wish a winding
sheet was furnished, while his wail of eloquent sorrow,
"Me charke! me charke!" was continually heard.
106 
nUMItS DOINg1 S.
On another occasion a shocking murder was committed
at the door of a dying woman, at the midnight hour-an
hour when the Indian is never out, unless under the influence of "fire-water," which the white man has sold.
An evidently excited group was one morning  gathered
around an ox sled, visible from my school-room window.
An object strangely human lay upon the sled.  In a few
moments there came a message from tile lady of the house
of which he was an inmate, saying          was dead, and
that she begged my immediate presence.  Alas! one look
and all was told. iHe had frozen to death under the accursed influence; had been found upon the prairie and
brought in as described.  His brain crazed, he had wandered, probably not knowing whither he went, and "died
as thle fool dieth." Gentlemanly, affable and intelligent,
of fine address and noble mien, he yielded to the debasing
appetite, and fortunately left no affectionate wife or loving
children, blighted in spirit by his dreadful end.
WVill not this death move the people? was the soul's
inquiry, which met no response, and hope well nligh expired.  Winter had yielded up his throne,
" The stormy Marchli had come at last,"
but with bright and gladsome smiles which seemed to
mock at my doubts, and contrast strangely with the moral
darkness around us.  With joyful surprise, I soon heard
for the first time, inquiries respecting the constitution and
pledge of a Temperance society.  The interrogator "had
never seen one, but he and others had resolved to be no
longer slaves to appetite, and to form themselves into a
band for mutual strength and encouragement."  Permission was granted for the occupancy of the school-room,
and on the morning following the first meeting, a fine
107 
LATEPi SETTLEL2IENTS.
drawing: indicative of the evening's resolutions, greeted
my vision from tlhe black-board.  The picture exhibited
a company of revelers assembled, where wine and wit
were wont to flow, emptying the contents of their glasses,
tipping over the decanter, and turning with joy to a fountain "sparkling and bright," which they had just discov ered.  It was a noble example to the youthful Territory,
when the young men at St. Paul thus rose in moral
strength to wipe away her reproach.
Pursuant to arrangement, Rev. Mr. Gear, chaplain of
the garrison, delivered the first temperance address in
connection with religious services, when a society was
duly organized, March 9, 1848.  Thirty signatures were
the same evening appended to the pledge.
The banner of temperance was now unfurled in auspicious breezes.   The drunkard was reclaimed,  and
young men were saved from following in his steps. But
the destroyer of domestic peace-the murderer of the
soul, could not sleep. Efforts were made to win the
drunkard back to his cups; to overthrow the resolves
of the young; to entrap the unwary; and, because this
could not be done by strong drink, the temptation was
presented in the form of light wines and beer, that this
pampering of appetite might draw men back to their
"wallowings in the mire."
"Come in here and take a drink of brandy," called a
rum-seller, to one who had been "saved, so as by fire,"
from the drunkard's grave.  The words were powerless,
and he quickened his step.
"Come and have a drink of beer, then, plenty of
tlhat yet; mighty pious notions you are getting into your
hlead. Come, be a man."
"I shall not do it; I want none of your brandy or
108 
IRUM.S DOINGS.
beer;" and the enticer, crest-fallen, turned to enter his
store, as I approached the steps from an opposite direction.  A gang of idlers leaned upon the counter, whom
the now polite dry-goods merchant pushed aside, fearing,
perhaps, he might also lose a lady customer; but I left
that store with a mental resolve never to enter it again.
Persevering efforts are generally successful. The beer
soon created a thirst for something stronger: and not
many months had elapsed, ere one and another hadc fallen
never more to rise.  Among them was the merchant
above mentioned, who, after leaving our community, in
a drunken fit, crushed an infant, by dashing it on the
floor. Another, the president of our society, a year or
two later, when intoxicated, fractured the skull of a fellow-laborer, who was in a like state, and who survived
but a few hours. The murderer was arrested, tried before the first judicial court of Ramsey county, and acquitted on the ground of justifiable homicide.   This acquittal resulted, in truth, from the skill and eloquence
of his attorneys, Messrs. Rice and Ames, natives of the
Green Mountain State.
Such were some of the fruits of the sale of ardent
spirits amongst us, and the reward of those who thus
lead their victims down to death! But good had been
achieved, though unprincipled men sought to overthrow it.
In the spring of 1849, a division of the Sons of Temperance was instituted, with twenty charter-signers, and not
long after the Territorial Society was organized, followed
by the "Temperance Watchmen." These, each, have
done a great and noble work; but though they have laid
"the ax at the root of the tree,"' the monster, with its
thousand heads, still lives.
109 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
" News from Jfaine," is wafted on the breeze, and fires
the soul of every true lover of his race with new enthusiasm, and rouses to new effort.  ITe nmuest have the
"MAAINE  LAW."   Mlass meetings were  now  held,
stirring speeches made, and sermons preached on the subject from every desk in the Territory.  The Legislature
met.  The petition of five hundred women and eight
hundred men, praying for the law, was sent in.  The
contest between the f(-ilowers of Bacchus and the cause of
temperance was severe, and was finally referred back to
the people.
The first day of April, 1851, was bright and glorious.
Every voter was at the polls. A day of more general
commotion Lad not been known in St. Paul; the ladies
were at theI "Sons' Hall," where a free sumptuous entertainment was prepared for all who would come and partake.  Each guest was required to leave his autograph,
and over three hundred names were entered.   With
what emotions both friend and foe of temperance awaits
the countings of the "YES" and "NO."   The sun has
set, courier after courier arrives at the capital, and, hark!
the bells are ringing!  Six bells are announcing VICTOiJY! VICTORY! VICTORY!
The most honorable of the rumsellers closed their
business before the first of June, when the law was to take
effect. Rum shops were closed on the Sabbath, and every
where the magical workings of the law were felt and
seen. Seizures of liquors were made when landed upon
the levees, and the prospect was fair for the complete
prevention of'thie traffic, when one individual who had
invested all his means in a cargo of liquors, which was
seized on its arrival, encouraged by bad men, determined
to test the constitutionality of the law. The result was
110 
RUM'S DOINGS.
a decision, by Judge Hiayner, favorable to defendant,
which involved the county in a debt of several thousand
dollars, and aroused the slumbering energies of the advocates of strong drink. These efforts placed a majority
of this stamp in the ensuing Legislature, and the consequence was, a repeal of the wholesome law.
Now came the reverse.  On the night of the repeal, a
large steamboat bell was mounted upon wheels, and
attended by scores of miserable beings, went booming
through the streets of the capital, proclaiming death to
the temperance principles, and loud hurrahs for the
movers of repeal.
Year by year each party becomes stronger and stronger.
Men there are who  fight valiantly for TRUTIH; but
still the blight of this greatest of human curses exists.
Rev. A. Sabin, Baptist Minister, and Member of Congress, from Vermont, once, in my hearing, illustrated
another theme, by a reference to his father's farm, more
famous for Canada thistles thaii any other in the State.
The owner labored diligently to root them out; still
there would be thistles, and yet it was a good farm, for it
gave his widowed mother a maintenance; had supported
himself and his children, till all had gone from him;
and, said he, "it is a good farm still, though the thistles
are not all rooted out yet." Who will say that by those
persevering efforts to root out the thistles, it was not
made a better farm than it otherwise would have been?
So will Minnesotians continue their efforts to root out
the nefarious traffic from our midst, and the RIGIHT
v~ill eventually triumph.
ill 
CHAPTER XXIV.
RELIGIOUS EFFORTS.
TIHE first religious movement in the Territory was by
the Methodist Rock River C:)nference in 1844. Delegated
by that body, PRev. Mr. IHurlbut was first to ascertain
the spiritual wants of this country, and sound the Gospel
trumpet through this sparsely populated region. Ile
could do little else during the brief period of his appointment than "prepare the way," and leave "fallow ground'
for others to sow the seed and reap the harvest.
Hiis successor, Rev. J. G. Putnam, had been one year
in the field, when the writer entered the territory; and
he, with the exception of missionaries and the chaplain
at the Fort, and one retired missionary, was the only
evangelical minister "in all the broad domain." Hlis
widely remote stations forbade a frequent visit to each;
and the reader can form some idea of the destitution,
from the fact, that during my five months' sojourn ill
St. Paul, I listened to but one sermon. The Sabbath
school'vas thie only religious gathering; and here, after
the formation of a Bible class, we were acustomed to read
a tract or sermon, whlile, for one year, the writer remainedl
the only professing Chiristian resident in St. Paul, and
not another voice was audible in prayer, in that Sunday
school.  The responsibility of discharging the combined
duties of superintendent, teacher, and almost, of minister,
she might not and dared not lay aside; and thus, amid
encouragements and discouragements, hopes and fears,
[112] 
_
RrV.11   OBT 
I 
RELIGIOUS EFFORTS.
sunshine and shade, she worked on, wishing, hoping,
praying, that God would put it into the hearts of some
of his children to "come over and help " to cultivate the
promising garden.
Early in the summer of 1848, Deacon A. IL. Cavender,
Baptist, and Rev. B. F. hIoyt, a Methodist local preacher,
arrived in St. Paul, and became at once valuable and
efficient workers.  The latter, constrained by the love of
souls, occasionally broke the "bread of life " to the listening few.  When  the "number of disciples" had increased to five or six, though their membership was  in
three Christian denominations, on November 9th, 1848,
a weekly prayer meeting was established.
Early in the winter of 1849, a Methlodist class was organized by Rev. Mr. Close (now in Oregon), and about
this time lion. II. M. Price, since our delegate to Cangffress, made the liberal offer of two hundred dollars and
ten town lots, towards the first church edifice.  This church
accepted the offer, and the followving spring was laid the
corner-stone of their brick house in Upper Town.
With the establishment of the prayer-meeting, came
the resolution to maintain some form of religious worship
on each Sabbath, and so blessed was this resolve, that,
except on two occasions, we were not without the living
teacher.
..
In the winter of 1848, Rev. Mr. Gear held monthly
and finally semimonthly, service in St. Paul, with no
reward but a consciousness of cloiny goocd, in thus laboring
for the benefit of his fellow men.
Near the close of the year 1848, a simultaneous correspondence commenced between the writer and Rev. B
M. Hill, D. D1., Corresponding Secretary of the Baptist
Home Mission Board, under circumstances so singular
113 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
that we could not but believe that the hand of the Lord
was in it, and that IIis Spirit directed thle matter.  1Te
supposed ourselves to be strangers to each other, one
asking for a Home Missionary to be sent to this inviting
field-the other seeking information, and desiring to knowv
if the Home Mission Board could do anything in this
direction. The result was, the appointment of Rev. J. P.
Parsons in February following, who entered upon his
duties in May 1849, the first resident minister in St. Paul.
On the last day of the same year, "The First Baptist
Church of St. Paul," composed of twelve members, was
publicly recognized in a new and unplastercd schoolhouse, where its services were held through the ensuing
year.  About this time the union prayer-meeting, which
had been cherished as "the apple of the eye," by its originators, was sundered through denominational interests;
and though we heartily rejoiced in the religious advance,
which created the necessity, it was a painful experience
to those who had first wept over the barren soil, and
prayed for more laborers in the vineyard.
In 1851 Mr. Parsons went east, to raise funds for the
completion of the church edifice in process of erection.
He met with general success, and was returning with an
amount adequate to the liquidation of the church debt,
when he was robbed, it is supposed, of his mosey and
effects; and his death on board a Mississippi steamer, six
days before it reached the port of St. Paul, has veiled the
entire matter in a mystery, which will probably never be
removed.  The new house was first opened for his funeral
services, in which nine ministers participated.
The embarrassments of the feeble church were now
extreme. It would not have been surprising, had a paralysis, fatal to its continuance, fallen upon it; but an
114 
RELIGIOUS EFFIORTS.
Almighty arm upheld it, and it struggled on, resolved in
the strength of ISRAEL'S GOD, to do what it coztld. The
"Ladies' Sewing Society" was an efficient auxiliary, and
their unwearied exertions, combined with the praiseworthy
efforts of the other sex, relieved the church from debt iln
the winter of 1855.
In the spring of 1852, Rev. J. R. Cressey took the place
of the deceased pastor, and labored for two years with
great zeal and efficiency, the church in the meantime
doubling its members.
In November, 1854, he was succeeded by Rev. A. M.
Torbet, a "workman thoroughly furnished unto every good
work," who still continues to labor in word, deed and doctrine.  His efforts were blessed to the salvation of souls;
and during the first six months, the church tripled its
numbers, though  so constantly  dismissing  to other
churches, that it has been, with propriety, styled a " religious forwarding house."
The religious and denominational interests of the Territory have advanced in a corresponding ratio. In September, 1852, the "Minnesota Baptist Association" was
organized at St. Paul, comprising six churches, with less
than one hundred communicants.  In 1856 this body
was convened at Minneapolis, a town which had no existence when it was formed, and eight new churches were
received, making the whole number seventeen. A report
then and there adopted, read: "Your committee have no
disposition to overrate the importance of this field of labor
above other States and Territories, but they will venture
to say, that, from the moment when the Corresponding
Secretary of that Society (the Hlome Mission), and a solitary Baptist member in the city of St. Paul (who is nowr
present), were both seated, unknown to each other, open
lt5 
LATER SETTLEMLEN'TS.
ing a correspondence upon the subject of Missions in the
Territory, to the present time, there is Do field that has
developed more rich results according to the labor per formed.  That time is no more years back than the
number of churches received into this body at the present
session, and yet in it some twenty to twenty-four churches
have been organized in this Territory, many of them at
no small cost of labor and means to the Missionaries of
the Home Mission Society. And in a Territory which
has probably doubledcl its inhabitants this year, there must
be still other points springing up which will have their
churches and will require their missionaries.  Ours is no
slow growth in other respects, and it must not be one relig.iously. This Territory needs many more able bodied
men, who will enter the missionary ranks and labor for
the good of souls and the glory of God.  A large and rich
harvest invites the man of God to toil and sacrifice."
The "Southern Minnesota Baptist Association" was
organized in August, 1856, with four churches and a
membership of over one hundred.  In view of all this
change, we can only say, "What hath God wrought! "
Rev. Joshua Bradley, who  came to this Territory ill
1850, when it was almost a wilderness and when St. Paul
was almost unknown, with the design of following out
the great object to which his valuable life had been devoted, viz., the establishment of a seminary of learning in
this new land, died, rich in faith, November 22, 1855,
aged eighty-four years.  "His name stands connected
with seventeen academies and colleges, which he had
either been the means of founding or fostering into a
healthful existence; and thus, in the hands of God, he has
been the instrument of assisting to lay broad and deep
the foundations of our national learnilg."  He was ever
116 
RELIGIOUS EFFORTS.
abundant ini good works, and during the several interims
of pastorate vacancies in St. Paul, the desk was supplied
by "Father B3radley," as he was afectionately styled by
all who knew him.  Mr. Torbet, in a sermon on his death,
says:
"His whole life has'been devotad to the work of popular education; yet he has il no instance compromised his
character and standing as a minister of Jesus Christ.
"Wherever he went, however, he labored in the cause
of education; he was conscious that it was but a secondary work to that of commr,cldng the Gospel to his fellowmen.  IJis first business in life was tihe ministry of reconciliation.  And in thiis he was a man of faith, and full
of the Holy Ghost, with power. Revivals attended his
ministry in many places where he went to build institutionis of learning; and many of his pupils he induced to
devote themselves to the Gospel ministry.  The number
of indigent ypung men whom he has assisted, instructed,
and prepared for the ministry, in both our own and other
denominations, will probably never be knowni, until the
revelations of thie Judgment. MIany of them have been
fed from his table, clothed from his wardrobe, and taught
from his lips.
"When I speakl of him as a man, I would say that he
was endowed with great executive ability, more than ordinary refinement of taste, good reasoniring powers, was
remarkably upright in all his dealigs, and possessed of
strong, good common sense.  I may speak of him as a
divine of sound practical theological views, liberal feelings, great kindness of heart, ready to sympathize with
and comfort the afflicted, aind point the sinner to the
Redeemer, having, anl unbounded interest in everything
that pertained to the good of men in this world, anid their
1.17 
LATER SETTrLEMENTS.
glorification in the next.  He had a deep and abidingt
sense of the worth of Christ, and delighted to co,nmmend
him to his fellowmen as their salvation and all their desire.  During his life he preached more than seven thousand times.
"WThen I speak of him as an instructor of thle young, I
may say, he had few equals.  His blandness of mainner,
and simplicity of address, made the young always feel,at
home in his presence, and fitted him to communicate instruction as few  other men ever could do.   He  was
eminently successful, and many of his pupils will to this
day attest his faithfulness.
"As a father, he was uniformly kind and careful, thoLugh
his children were taught obedience; and he ruled his
own house well.
"As a husband, he was conservative, and knew how to
appreciate the mutual blessings of that time-honored and
miost tender relation.  I-e has had two wives, and children by them both.  The children of her who is left his
widow were buried in the morning of life; but he has
left one son and a daughter by his first wife to mourn
his loss.
"As a Christian, Father Bradley was a perfect and upright man.  He possessed strong religious emotions, and
loved all who in reality had a spiritual knowledge of the
Saviour of sinners, of whatever denominational colgnomlcn
they were. His end, therefore, was peace. He had inducements to d(lie and his language frequently was-" I
long to depart, and be with Christ, which is far better."
Thie mnorning that he died, he broke out and sang the
first verse of thie hymn
"' 0, how happy are they
Who their Savior obey.'
118 
RELIGIOUS EFFORTS.
WVhen the first stanza was sung, his tongue became stiff
in death, and he could neither sing nor converse more.
lie died as a Christian, entered into his rest, a loss to the
church, a loss to the conmmunity, a loss to friends, a loss
to sinners-but a gain to heaven, a gain to him."
I have made these brief extracts from the sermon, as
many of his personal friends are yet living, and, besides,
it is a record of a good man, whose works cannot die. iHe
had for several successive years served as chaplain in the
legislature, remarkably retaining the vigor of mind and
muscle, until a year or two previous to his death. IHe
preached his last sermon ill March preceding his demise,
during the illness of the pastor.  Emphatically, the "luster of his eye was not dimmed, nor his natural force
abated." " None knew him but to love him." "Blessed
are the dead who die in the Lord!" and may the living,
to use the language of the text on his funeral occasion,
"mark the perfect man, and behold the upright, for the
end of that man is peace."
119
0
0 
CHAPTER XXV.
RELIGIOUS PROGRESS.
IN April, 1848, Rev. E. D. Neill visited the territory,
* spent one week, preached on the Sabbath, surveyed the
ground, so far as his limited time would allow, and be came impressed with the vast importance, present and
prospective, of the field.  He sought and obtained the
appointment fromn the Presbyterian Board of Home Mis sions, and entered the field in July following-the second
resident minister in St. IPaul.
Until this time, the school-house had been the only
place of worship.  In a few weeks from his arrival, Mr.
Neill had completed a neat little lecture room, in which
his family resided while his own dwelling, the first brick
house in town, was in process of building.   The follow ing January, a New School Presbyterian church, of nine
members, was publicy recognized.
It was no trifling affliction to the youthful town when
this lecture-room, eight months after its erection, was
burned down.  Bat, like many other trying events, it
proved a blessing in disguise, for in its stead, and from
its' ashes, rose the substantial brick church on St. Anthony
street, near the spot where once stood the hovel, of im mortal memory, in which the first efforts in behalf of
education and religion in St. Paul were made.
In 1855, a branch from this formed the "iHouse of
lope" church, and located in the extreme of Upper
Town, retaining Mr. Neill for pastor; and in 1856 the
[12X 
RELIGIOUS PROGRESS.
first church obtained the valuable services of Rev. James
Mattocks, from New York.  Prosperity has smiled on
this branch of the Church since its foundation, and the
people of God have learned "not to despise the day of
small things."
In the autumn of 1851, Rev. J. G. Riheldaffer, Old
School Presbyterian, entered the field at St. Paul. A
vacancy by death in the pastorate of the Baptist church,
left the house open to him half the day and evening for
the first six months, after which he removed to the courthouse,  meanwhile using his powerful  influence and
energies to "build a hous  to God."  This is a fine edifice, in a commanding location, and wvas dedicated inl
1854. An efficien,t school is connected with this church,
and taught in the basement of the building.
In the summer of 1850, an Episcopal mission was established at St. Paul by Rev. Mr. Breck, a man of inidomitable energy and perseverance, assisted by Revs. Messrs.
Myrick and Wilcoxson.  A church and mission-house
appeared in an inconceivably short space of time, and
abundant success has attended these self-denying efforts.
At the commencement of this mission, a few hundred
dollars were invested in real estate, which is now valued
at $50,000-a perpetual fund to thile denomination; a
precedent which it might, perhaps, be well for others to
adopt.
A German Methodist church was organized, and their
neat little chapel appeared in the summer of 1852. A
Swede Lutheran church was built in 1854; and a Swede
Baptist missionary has been successful, both here and
elsewhere, in itinerancy.
In 1856, the Methodists built a second edifice, large,
commodious, and finely-located, in Lower Town. Every
6
121 
LATER SETTLEMENTS.
where have they grown in numerical and spiritual
strength commensurate with their noble and indefatigable
efforts.
All evangelical denominations are here represented,
and the "Man of Sin" holds a powerful numerical sway.
But the unhappy " isms," which so distract the harmony
of Zion, and often mar even the sweetness of social life
at the East, have not crept into our territory. God grant
they never may!
To the Home Mission boards of the various denominations are all indebted for an early supply of Gospel
ministers. Truly, thlese are of divine origin, and to them
we owe, under God, our present religious prosperity.
Churches have been gathered in almost every infant
settlement, and the cry is still "( Come over and help us."
Children are gathered into the Sabbath schools; the
Bible and tract distributor, the Sunday school agent and
colporteur are abroad; and societies for the good of each
community are formed. A country rich in nature's gifts
is spread before us, fast developing an enterprise, intelligence, and progress, unprecedented, and of which, perhaps, more from past observation than faith, we may
say, it is destined to become emphatically "Immanuel's
land."
The reader must have learned by this time, that the
interests of education and religion were among the first
to receive attention from the settlers of this territory, and
as we have heretofore said, the church and school-house
were planted side by side. A few years have accomplished, in Minnesota, what required centuries in New
England.  Eight church-bells ring forth their Sabbath
morning peals, inviting the population of the Capital to
the sanctuary of the Most High, where talents, eloquence,
122 
RELIGIOUS PROGRESS.
and pious fervo,L, beautifully harmonize, to attract simple
men to the cross of Christ.
The legislature of Minnuesota has incorporated three
important denominational institutions, viz., " Hamline
University," Methodist; "College of St. Paul," Presbyterian; and "M Minnesota Central University," Baptist.
The first, located at Redwing, opened in 185o5, is
already in a flourishing condition; the second opened its
primary department in 1856, and all of these will soon
rank among the first institutions of our country.
123 
CHAPTER XXVI.
ORGAN IZATION OF THE TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA.
THiE entire North-western Territory had been under the
jurisdiction of Wisconsin previous to its admission as a
State in 1848. After much agitation the St. Croix river
was determined upon as the lower portion of the northwestern boundary.
The people not embraced within the State organization
determined to assert their right to be represented in Congress, and the subject was agitated by various meetings
called for the purpose.  A  call for a convention was
signed by twenty individuals, and was responded to by
sixty-two delegates from different parts of the territory,
and a petition to Congress, for representation there, was
signed by every member of the body. In October of the
same year, John Catlin, secretary of Wisconsin, and governor ex-offio of Minnesota, issued a proclamation for
the election of a delegate to Congress, and Henry HI.
Sibley received the almost unanimous vote of the people.
The struggle to obtain a seat was a severe one, and to his
influence are we indebted for a territorial organization in
March, 1849, with liberal appropriations for organizing
and sustaining its government.
Alexander Ramsey, of Pennsylvania, a man every
way worthy the trust, was appointed governor, who, by
wise counsel, judicious management, and a prudent course,
made even his political enemies to be at peace with him.
None ever filled the "Chair of State" with more dignity.
[124] 
"kI-i                      \ II,,,I,-   X:"    V,   0
-   ~~~                    X~Z    ~
I; j//~7
\ ~:>;~
<~           ~ 
I 
ORGANIZATION OF THE TERRITORY.
This was tlheio glorious birthday of our territory; the
great epoch in its history.  Immediately the tide of ermigration set in this direction.  Tradesmen of every craft
came wvith the swelling tide; professions were crowded;
every dwelling was put in requisition, and, indeed, whatever would afford a shelter.  No longer didc our citizens
wonder whose might be each strange face, for strangers
literally crowded the one street of the metropolis of
Minnesota.
The demand for enlarged accomodations resulted in
the appearance of the "American," andl "Central House."
Streets were opened and buildings went up as by magic.
The sound of the hammer ceased not day or night.  Instead of a semi-monthly mail, with one letter only, the
contents of the mail bags were estimated by the bushel,
on its tri-wveekly, and, finally, daily arrival.   New life
was diffused into every element of society, and onward
rushed improvement with rapid strides.
Among the early arrivals of the season came James
iM. Goodhue, who brought with him a printing press,
prepared to issue the "Minnesota Pioneer," the first enterp)rise of the kind in this new territory. His office was
an unfinished carpenter's shop, quite open, and the first
number of his paper appeared 17th April, 1849.
The natural advantages, resources, and beauties of this
new country, delineated by his racy pen, presented great
inducements to immigration.  That James Al. Goodhue
was a true friend to the territory, devoted to her interests; a man of strong mind, of decided character, and
great energy, are undisputed facts.  lie was true to his
friends, severe upon his enemies, and indififerent to none.
Cutting sarcasm was his peculiar forte. His editorial
career terminated July, 1852.
1 2 11-i 
LATER SETTLE[ENTS.
In 1853, Governor Rammsey's term of officee having expired, AVillis A. Goriman took the executive chair, under
the appointment of President Pierce.  The interests of
the territory have been safely guarded, andl he has done
much to advance the superstructure to its present beauteous proportions, the foundation of wvhichl was laid by
other hands.
AVe are quite sure that no territory ever had so precocious an infancy, and are equally sure, that no executive officers have done more to produce so desirable a result, than have the first two governors of Minnesota. U[he
names of Ramsey and Gormani will live and be honored
long after they shall have passed from earth.  May their
names be registered in the Book of Life, and the plaudit
" TVel done -ood cnd fctitifut," secure them admission
into that city "Not made with hands."
126 
FIJRTITHEP DEVELOPMENTS.  
CHAPTER XXVII.
CLIMATE OF MINNESOTA.
THE climate of Minnesota is one of its greatest attrac tions. For healthfulness it is unsurpassed. Elevated
on the continent above all miasmatic and malarious influ ences, it is subject to none of those bilious diseases so
common in lower and more southern portions of the
West. The atmosphere is bracing, exhilarating, invigor ating, and pure.
The severity of our winters has, doubtless, deterred
many who would otherwise have sought homes in its
lovely vales. But experience teaches all that they have
nothing to fear from this source.
"It is true, that the cold is here more intense than in
the Eastern States in the same latitude; that is, the thermometer often indicates a lower degree of temperature
than is there experienced.     *      But that the winters
of Minnesota are far pleasanter, and that the human system is less affected by the cold here than at the East, is a
fact generally admitted by all whose experience enables
them to form a correctjudgment.  This is attributable, in a
great measure, probably, to the dryness of the atmosphere,
and, in part, in consequence of the system becoming
habituated to the change, or acclimated, and capable of
enduring a greater degree of cold without inconvenience,
than in a damper atmosphere."
The extremities do occasionally suffer the bitings of
frost, while the individual is scarcely sensible of cold;
and therefore one needs to be well prepared for the sea         6*                                 [129] 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
son, and he has nothing to fear or suffer. In a more
southern latitude one might chill to death without freezing,
while here we would freeze without chilling. On one
occasion, during the earlier period of pioneer life, my
fcet became badly frozen during a ride of eighteen miles,
on an unbroken road without a house. I was sensible
of no material suffering, and yet, such Was the actual
state of my physical system, that I have ever regarded
the exercise of digging myself from a snow drift, into
which the overturned sleigh had plunged me,'as the
means of saving me from freezing to death.  My nose,
too, suffered similarly on another occasion, yet the fact
was unnoticed, until it was exposed to the heat of the
fire. These extremes of cold are rare, and winter here
is, on the whole, a very pleasant season.
Snow usually begins to fall about the middle of November, or the first of'December, and until the first of
March we have steady sleighing, with no general thaw;
and rain rarely falls. The average depth of snow is about
ten inches, and it seldom drifts to cause any inconvenience. The highest winds are in the spring, when,
though not very cold, they are frequently very disagreeable.
The reign of winter is suddenly resigned, and, without
a frown, spring hastens with rapid pace, and earth seems
literally to drink up the snow; and the floral train commences to deck the earth.  On the "sunny side" of a
ravine or bluff, the delicate spring flower announces the
awakening of vegetable life, while yet on the "shady
side," the formidable snow bank is wasting away.
When the ground is fairly bare the roads are usually
dry and dusty.  Except in few places, mud is almost
unknown.
"The soil is of such a nature that it absorbs the water
130 
CLIMATE OF MINNESOTA.
almost as fast as it falls; and after the heaviest rains, two
or three days are quite sufficient to put the roads in the
best possible order. Hiow great this advantange is, can
be best understood by those accustomed to the impassable
thoroughfares of the States below us, during several
months of the year."
The spring in Minnesota, with the advance of vegetation, is quite as early as it is several degrees south of us.
Immigrants from below often express their surprise at
finding vegetation here farther advanced than at four
hundred miles south.
"Plowing may usually be commenced as soon as the
snow is off the ground. In some seasons it is commenced in March; but ordinarily, little is done before
April. Vegetation is quick and rapid, and grains requiring the longest time to mature, are always out of the
way of frost.
"Some few excessively hot days are experienced in
the summer, the mercury running as high as ninety, and
even above one hundred, in the shade. But even then,
the nights are rarely oppressive, a cool breeze usually
prevailing, and modifying the temperature so as to
render it delightful; and a comfortable night's rest is
always obtained."
Autumn  is decidedly the crowning season.   "The
glorious Indian summer, from four to six weeks, presents
a feature which no other part of the Union can boast in
such perfection. Nothing can surpass the splendor of
the forests at this season, or the mild, pure, delicious
atmosphere. It is worth a journey across the Atlantic
to enjby a Minnesota Indian summer." Fall rains are
uncommon, and the wheeling is fine, until the snow falls
on dry, hard, and smooth roads.
In illustration of our delightful autumns, I am now,
131 
F tR lTItER DEVELOPMENTS.
October 9th, clad in summer dress, and actually op
pressed with heat; and such has been the uninterrupted
temperature, thus far, through the present season.
I am aware, that if the whole truth could be told-if
a faithful picture of the matchless beauty and natural
advantages of this "goodlie land" could be drawn, it
would appear to the world as the work of imagination,
rather than reality.  The more we know of the country,
the greater our admiration, and the more intense our
enthusiasm.
Captain Pope, in his Government Report,  has the
following  strong but reliable  language:  "It is impossible, in a report of this character, to describe the
feelings of admiration and astonishment with which we
first behield the charming country in the vicinity of this
Lake (the Ottertail); and were I to give expression to
my own feelings and opinions in reference to it, I fear
they would be considered the ravings of a visionary,
or enthusiast."  In reference to the country in general,
he further says: "I have become so much  interested
in the country, and  so fully convinced  of the rapid
progress it will make in wealth and population, that it
would not only be a high honor, but a deep gratification to me, should I be so fortunate as to be selected for
the purpose of continuing the explorations  yet to be
made within its borders.  Without being too sanguine or
enthusiastic, it appears to me that no State or Territory
in the West presents so many, or such remarkable advantages to the farmer or manufacturer; and I am well
convinced  that  those who  may  be induced,  by  the
perusal of this report, to emigrate to the Territory
of Minnesota, will find their anticipations more than
realized, and will be rather disposed to condemn me
for having said too little than too much."
132 
CHAPTER XXVIII.
* NATURAL RESOURCES.
THE St. Croix Valley was earliest brought into note
on account of its lumbering interests; and skirting the
western banks of the river and lake are many fine and
well cultivated farms. As we pass along we wonder
if this region was so recently the home of the red man,
and the lurking place of the wild beast!
Messrs. Haskell and Norris are entitled to the credit
of pioneer farmers in Minnesota, and in this valley,
the delta between the Mississippi and St. Croix rivers,
their farms were located.  "They first demonstrated the
fact that our lands are equal to any in the West for the
production of cereals, a fact which was denied not only
by non-residents of the territory, but by individuals
among us."
The erroneous idea has extensively prevailed, that
"Minnesota is too cold to raise corn."  " The total
absurdity of this idea has been so fully and effectually
exposed, that it is now rarely or never urged by men
of ordinary intelligence. Minnesota will, within a few
years, be one of the most extensive corn-growing States
in the Union.   Both soil and climate are perfectly
adapted to the growth of this cereal. The ordinary
yield on well-cultivated fields, is from fifty to seventy
bushels per acre.
"Wheat is also a staple production; some fields
having produced over forty bushels of winter wheat
[183] 
FURTHER I)EVELOP31ENTS.
to the acre.  But spring wheat has been extensively
raised; and if the ground is properly prepared, never
fails to  produce  bountifully.   From  twenty-five  to
thirty bushels per acre may be considered the average yield.  It is never liable to rust (so far as we know),
the dryness of the climate being a guaranty against that
mischief. The grain is plump and heavy, and makes a
flour nearly, if not quite, equal to wheat produced further
south.  Its cultivation has been rapidly on the increase,
although the demand has more than kept pace with the
supply.
"Oats are also extensively raised, and have proved
a certain and profitable crop. The average yield is
estimated at about forty bushels to the acre, although as
high as sixty are frequently raised. They are, perhaps,
as profitable a crop as can be raised, as from the immense quantities required for feeding in the Territory, a
ready-cash market is always at hand, at high prices.
They are seldom less than fifty cents a bushel, ranging fromn that to a dollar, and even higher on some
occasions.
"Barley and buckwheat are both good crops, although
the former has not yet been cultivated to any great
extent in the Territory. In regard to roots, no country
in the world can surpass this, either in quality or yield
per acre.
" In short, as a vegetable and grain-growing country,
there is not a State or Territory in the Union that can
surpass Minnesota, nor is there a country where farming
is now more profitable.
"The demand for labor in Minnesota is very great,
and no person who is willing to work need here be
unemployed. Wages are high for all kinds of labor,
134 
NATURAL RESOURCES.
especially for mechanics whose trade is connected with
building. Ordinary journeymen carpenters get from
two dollars to two and a half per day-first-rate work  men, three dollars.  The immense amount of building
going on is likely to sustain these prices for some time
to come.
"Lumbermen usually get from twenty-five to thirty
dollars per month.   Farm hands get from twenty to
twenty-six dollars and board.  Sawyers, millnen, and
shingle makers, get from one to two dollars per day, ac  cording to skill and experience.
"Girls, for doing house work, get from one and a
half to three dollars per week-average about two dol  lars and twenty-five cents.  The supply is not equal
to the demand, as this class of girls who  come to Ain  nesota always have numerous advantageous offers of
*    marriage, some one or more of which they are generally
sensible enouglh to accept.
"Vast quantities of lands are to be obtained at Govern  ment price, though none of much value near the prin  cipal towns, or bordering on the great thioroughfares,
excepting far up the Mississippi. This is one reason
for the high rates of wages; for a person can'make
a claim,' put up a shanty, break and fence a few acres,
and if he choose, sell out in six or eight months for
from  three hundred to a thousand dollars, or even
more, according to location.  Of cobse, this is much
better wages than can be obtained. by the month, with,
perhaps, less hard labor and hardships; and for every
hour's labor he bestows on his'claim,' he will reap a
munificent compensation, whether he preempts to make
a farm for his own use, or sells his improvements to
some other.
135 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
"Another reason for the continuance of high rates
of labor is found in the immense immigration. Farm
houses are to be built all over the territory, and hundreds of new towns are springing up, many of which
are to become cities of importance within a few years;
hence mechanics need have no fears of lack of profitable employment."
136
.
-4 
CHAPTER XXIX.
M)AKING CLAIMS.
THE  manner  of making  "claims" is probably  not
fully understood by people in the East. The design of
the law is evidently to favor the actual settler. It allows
him, on the making of certain improvements to the
amount of fifty dollars, such as building a house (or
cabin), which must "have a floor, window, and door,
with lock upon it," and breaking up the "fallow ground,"
to pay for it in advance, at one dollar twenty-five cents
per acre.  A quarter section of one hundred and sixty
acres is all he call "preempt." The chief benefit to the
actual settler above others is, that he may secure himself
a home and farm, and retain the use of his two hundred
dollars during the two or three years that may elapse
before the land comes into market.  A "claim" unoccupied, unless preempted, is liable to be "jumped," as is
frequently the case in a protracted absence of the original
claimant. In many instances, the quiet claimant has
been driven from his cabin, or had it torn down over his
head; and if out of the reach of law, has been obliged to
submit to the strongest party.
Whenever the land has been surveyed, and a day of
public sale appointed, it is offered to the highest bidder;
and when competition runs high, it frequently exceeds
the minimum Government price, one dollar twenty-five
cents per acre, at which price the lands left are subject
to private entry.
[13T 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
An acco lint given by a friend of mine, embodying his
experience in claim-making, may afford amusement, as
well as instruction, to my readers.
Of delicate personal appearance, and evidently tendrlylv reared, one would hardly expect to find him enjoying the "rough and tumble" of western life.  IHis
story runs thus: On a bright spring morning, he and
his friiend equipped themselves "for the woods," and
started. out on foot in pursuit of a claim, or claims.
Their path lay over rough cart roads, upon which, he
says,  "We  took our first lesson in walking  onr logs
over mud holes, and in the absence of logs,- in exploring
their depths."  This was in the "big woods" of Iminnesota, and before evening they had stood upon the
shores of Lake Wakansica; had admired its surroundings, and gone back five miles to the house of the nearest settler to spend the night, "tired to death with
twenty miles' travel."  But as our friend has  figured
somewhat in the literary world, and especially immortalizedl himself in his correspondence with the " Knickerbocker," in his "Bachelor Suggestions," of "Baby Cars,"
my readers will be better satisfied with the production
of his own racy pen.  Jie says  "This settler was an honest IHoosier, who had brought
his wife and three children'from back in Indyanna,'
to reside on the bank of a pretty lake,'and get shlet
of the ager.'
"'They lived in a rude log cabin, sixteen by eighteen
feet, plastered with mud,  and with a huge fire place
and mud chimney pushed out at one end.  This one
small room served as kitchen, parlor, bedroom, pantry,
cellar, and all other purposes. The furniture was equally
rude, there being but one chair with a back to it, and
1008 
MAKING CLAIMS.
that quite rickety. For seats, there were a large trunk,
two -stools, and two empty boxes. We ate a hearty
supper of pork and potatoes, and bread and black molasses. Milk and butter were unknown luxuries. There
were two beds-the settlel and wife occupied one, myself and chum the other, while the children made a bunk
on the floor. This was our boarding house-these our
fare and sleeping accommodations, till we had erected
our first cabin, with a weary walk of five miles at eaclh
end of the day.
"The next day we selected and made our'claimns'
of one hundred and sixty acres (or less) each, conforming, in our land marks, to the United States' survey,
and commenced clearing. We labored under many disadvantages; but after awhile got a'set of house logs'
chopped-about forty-and with the help of two men,
raised the frame of the first house on the borders of Lake
Wakansica.
"The logs are notched at each end, upon the under
side,' saddled' or ridged upon the upper, and piled up
cob-house fashion, to the height of the eaves. Then
longer logs are laid for the roof to rest on, and the' ribs'
placed transversely upon shorter and shorter logs till
the ridge is reached. These ribs serve the purpose of
rafters, upon which the roof, usually of "shakes,' or
short boards, split from a straight-grained oak log, is
nailed or secured by'weight poles.'  The places for
doors and windows  are sawed out afterwards.   The
crevices between the logs are closely'chinked' with bits
of wood, and then plastered with mud. The floor is
generally made of'puncheons,' or split logs, hewn
smooth upon the upper surface.
"After we had got up the frame, and the roof partly
139 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
on, we proceeded to obtain blankets and provisions, and
a few cooking utensils-all of which we had to carry
on our backs for five miles through the woods-and
moved in.
"Our beds were of boards' soft side up.'  At first it
was like sleeping on the floor of a piazza, with the front
gate open; but we built a rousing fire, slept well, notwithstanding, and didn't take cold. WVe progressed
slowly, being but stripling pioneers; erected the other
cabin, and gradually made them comnfortable. The fire
place and chimney were of wood, thickly plastered with
clay mud.  The window of each had to be brought from
town.  The doors were made of puncheons, hewn on
both sides,'cleeted' together,  hung on preposterous
wooden hinges, and secured by formidable wooden
latches, hewn and fitted with an ax. We were our
own architects, builders, masons, cooks, and laborers,
and had to labor hard at various kinds of work without
the necessary tools.
"Our cuisine was somewhat extraordinary, and much
more meager in its appointments than that of the principal hotels.   Potatoes, ham, bread, and coffee, graced
our board, in its best estate. When the ham gave outas all hams will in the woods-salt pork had to supply
its place. The coffee failed, yet there was plenty of
very good lake water to supply its place. The bread
also failed, yet we had pork and potatoes. Finally, the
last bit of pork was cast remorselessly into the fiying
pan, and we were reduced to potatoes and salt.
"In order to have as great a variety as possible, our
cook (of whose merits modesty forbids me to speak)
served up potatoes boiled, potatoes fried, potatoes broiled,
-and potatoes raw. Thus we had four kinds. Of the
140 
MAKING GLAIMS.
cooking department, and its appointments, as intimated
above, it will not do to enlarge. Suffice it to say, the
cooking is done'as well as circumstances will admit.'
Ravenous appetites maklte up for great deficiency in skill.
We cordially recognize the well-known principle, that
'fingers were made before forks,' and are astonished to
find how many uses a jack knife can be put.  Some
wooden bowls, paddles, and bark dishes, were obtained
from deserted Sioux'teepees.'  Rough wooden  spoons
-were whittled out, with which soup could be eaten as
readily as peas with a two-tined fork.  We  disdained
most of the luxuries of life, its formalities and etiquette,
for obvious reasons.  Allow me, here, to recommend
roughing it in the woods as a certain cure for dyspepsia.
No sane man could have seen us, amateur backwoodsmen-who modestly think ourselves tolerable judges of
good living-seated on a log, voraciously munching at a
slice of fat pork in one hand, and a hot potato in the
other, and for a moment doubt this.
"The weather was unpropitious. For two weeks it
was like Niobe, all tears; or as our own backwoods
neighbor expressed it, in a less poetic strain,'I allow it
has been right smart rainy for a powerful spell.' At
last the sun shone brightly, and we rejoiced.
"For three weeks we labored on, making improvements on our claims, which consisted in building the log
houses above described, and clearing or cutting off some
of the timber adjoining.
"We had browned our faces, torn our clothes, kicked
our boots, hose and toes to pieces, and bruised, burned,
blistered, and blackened our hands out of all beauty
and comeliness. I doubt if our best friends could
scarcely have recognized us in our tattered and torn,
unshaven and unshorn, barbarian condition.
141
-C 
FURTIIER DEVELOPMENTS.
"Now, our houses being completed-the hard work
of which we are getting tired-the shabby condition
of our wardrobe-our anxiety to hear how  the outside world is getting on witliout us, and especially
the alarmilng  fact, that there remain only potatoes
enough for one more meal-all conspire to induce us
to leave for a'few days.' So we pick up our
'traps,' strap them on our backs with thongs of elm
bark, cast a lingering look over the beautiful lake,
and to the tune of
"'I can't stay in the wilderness;
I'm going home,'
depart in search of civilization, of news, of friends, of
letters, and of business.
"All this seeming hardship is not without its enjoyment.  Did you ever build a house?  I do not mean that
you contracted for thle erection of a magnificent stack of
bricks; but that you built, say, a snug little cottage,
which you planned, contrived, and took pride in fitting
up according to your own taste. And if so, didn't you
rather like it? So there was a satisfaction, even in
working at my little log house. It Was mine, and I
owned every log in it. I wish you could see and admire,
if not the snug cabin, certainly its beautiful and pieturesque situation.  It stands on a high plateal of level
woodland, where the tall old trees are arched together
over the exuberant growth of verdure, and flowers of
white, blue, and yellow, and the thicket of wild currant
and gooseberry vines, like some old untrained English
park.  In front is the blue expanse of the lake, stretching away into the wilderness, its picturesque outlines
broken here and there by jutting headlands and bold
promontories.
142 
MAKING  CLAIM.IS.
" Fish and game are plenity in and about the lake, and
squirrels and singing birds throng the woods.'Deer
sign' was often seen, but only once did we catch sight
of the deer fleeting in the forest.  Occasionally, at nightfall, we set fire at the roots of some huge hollow tree, dry
as tinder, which soon become a roaring tower of flames,
and thus we obtained a splendid pyrotechnic exhibition
at our very doors.
"One day, sauntering along the shore of the lake, I
noticed a suspicious, sharp-pointed drift log among the
rubbish.   Closer investigation discovered it to be an
Indian canoe, very ingeniously hidden by the Sioux. So
I*off with coat and boots, and after an hour of brisk labor in removing leaves, moss- sand, and wvater, was
enabled triumphantly to'paddle my own canoe'in search
of pleasure and fish."
The foregoing is in keeping with the reports of all
who go olt "to make claims; "the same spirit of romance
and fun characterizes all, and all undergo the same initiation, in kind if not in degree, to a wild wood life. Many,
from preference, devote an unnecessary amount of time
to the construction of their cabin homes; others enjoy
most the rare sport of deer-shooting, duck-shooting,
grouse-shooting.and trout-fishing; and, with a relish unknown in any other circumstances, they partake of their
rustic meals, while soul and body gather health and refreshment. There is, truly, a strange fascination in this
wild life, which needs but to be tasted to be enjoyed.
143 
CHAPTER XXX.
PRODUCTS AND ADVANCE OF MINNESOTA.
WILD fruits of every variety are the spontaneous productions of the soil of this territory. Plums, grapes, and
cranberries grow in abundance-the latter forming an 
important article of commerce. Immense quantities were
shipped from St. Paul in 1856. Cultivated fruits, so far as
tested, succeed well; and there is no doubt but this will
prove as good a fruit-growing country as New England.
Wild rice, which is far preferable to the southern rice,
grows in the smaller streams, which the squaws whip off
in their canoes, and with slight preparation it is ready
for use.
Wild game  is abundant.  Ducks, pigeons, grouse,
quails, and prairie hens, are everywhere tempting the
hunter, and the finest venison is brought into market ill
large quantities. Even buffalo meat, pemmican and
buffalo tongue are delicacies to be obtained at some seasons, the latter possessing the most delic)as richness of
all meats. Pemmican is the dried, pounded meat of the
buffalo, packed in bags made of its hide, with the melted
tallow poured over, until it is fully saturated. This will
keep for years, and is much used by the Red River people on their long tramps, and by them brought into
market.
The inoffensive prairie wolf, and an occasional bear,
lurk within our borders, though they are fast becoming
extinct, or following in the wake of the red man.
[1441 - 
PRODUCTS AND ADVANCE OF MIIN-N'ESOTA.  145
With a soil which encourages the husbandman with
an abundant reward, a home market, and cash in hand
for all produce, there is no portion of our great republic
which presents to him a more inviting field than Minniesota; and its resources in this particular have been appreciated. Fine farm-houses overlook most of the crystal
lakes, and well-fenced farmins, waving with grain, smile in
abundance. If it be true, as asserted by some, that the
soil is less fertile than in more southern latitudes, it is
sufficiently productive for all practical purposes.
The chief advantages of this over more southern latitudes, is the purity and tonic influence of the climate;
neither ague nor other bilious diseases prevail here, there
being nothing to engender them. Life receives a new
impulse. If the aged become not young again, much of
the vigor of youth is restored; and though we do not
claim to be exempt from death, we surely enjoy better
health while we do live than in the Eastern States. Stagnant water, the most fruitful source of disease, is unknown; even our swamps are formed from springs, and
the water in them is wholesome and pure.  The undulating surface furnishes ample drainage for the water,
which reappears in numerous beautifying lakes.
In Governor Gorman's message to the people, in 1855,
he asserts that the population in that year had increased
forty       thousand; and the increase  of  1856 is even
greater, for it is authentically stated to have more than
doubled in this year, and may be safely estimated at two
hundred thousand. When we see the rapid strides
Minnesota is making towards the highest position as a
State, and that even now she might ask for admission
into the Union with no fear of denial; when we regard
her moral and physical power, her unprecedented re
7 
FURTIIER DEVELOPMAENITS.
sources, we cannot but predict for her a great and glorious destiny. Who can doubt that she is to shine the
brightest star in the galaxy of our republic?
We may not inappropriately introduce here the lines
from the pen of the gifted Mrs. Sigourney, who has parit
a pleasing tribute to
MINNESOTA.
We've a child out at nurse where the waters run clear,
And the Falls of St. Anthony ring on the ear;
And there, where the breezes are bracing and free,
She's as healthful and happy as baby can be;
"Mens sana in corpore sano," you know,
Is a treasure to all who are pilgrims below;
And we, with the wise Dr. Brigham, have thought
That "corpore sano" was the first to be sought:
So she runs at her will in the fresh open air,
And takes simple food, and is vigorous and fair.
No toys at Coutant's or Bonfanti's she buys,
Nor at Stewart's for candies or sugar-plums cries;
But plays on the greensward her gambles so rude,
With a huge-timbered doll tlhat her woodmen have hew'd;
Trots away to the bluffs on her own sturdy feet,
Or sings with the birdlings in harmony sweet;
Marks the "Father of Rivers," majestic and deep,
Or sinks in the shade of her forests to sleep.
We've been very much prospered in basket and store,
And have brought up with care thirty children or more;
And our neighbors across the Great Waters, they say,
Regard them with envy, as surely they may;
Still we hope, in her case, some improvement to make,
Since the wisest of parents may sometimes mistake.
Her sisters are doubtless a wonderful band,
The joy of our hearts, and the pride of the land;
146 
PRODUCTS AND ADVANCE OF MINNESOTA.  147
Yet a few of the elders, from strictness of rule,
Were sent, we're afraid, rather early to school;
And, perchance, though the teachers had excellent sense,
They developed the brain at the body's expense
Then some from the heat of the climate are frail,
And others with fever and ague are pale;
And others, alas! have gone mad, we are told,
From the bite of a dog, with a collar of gold.
Now, dear Minnesota, we wish you to shun
The faults into which your progenitors run;
Nor rush after wealth with a perilous speed,
Since the strength of republics lies deeper, indeed;
In the mines of the heart, and the ore of the soul;
In the virtue, and peace, and the patience of toil.
So be pleasant and honest, and keep, as you grow,
The pure rural tastes in your bosom of snow.
* We shall hear from you, child, over mountain and wave,
Your nurses will write us how well you behave;
Let no bad report your felicity mockHere's a kiss for you, darling, the pet of the flock! 
CaIAPTER  XXXI.
LAKE MIINNETONKA.
THIS country is-beautified with innumerable lakes,
which abound in the finest fish; and, with their woody
shores, are very inviting to the angler and sportsman.
Minnetonka (deep water) is the largest lake yet discovered within the limits of the territory. Its location
is between the Minnesota and Mississippi rivers, about
fifteen miles from the Falls of St. Anthony; and it is about
sixty miles in length. To Simon Stephens is attributed
the honor of its discovery, in 1852, when he made the first
claim on its fertile shores. Since then, the entire region
has been entered and occupied, and towns have arisen on
its banks.
Mr. Owen, editor of the Minnesotian, who was one of
the early visitors there, says:
"The mere discovery of Lake Minnetonka by white
men dates probably as far back as Father Hennapin, but
l148 
LAKE M1NNETONKA.
the discovery and knowledge of its vast resources and
extent are the work of this year. That a lake, or a series
of lakes, lay off in this direction, was known to all the
old Indian traders, and we have heard them frequently
speak of the fact. But uniil an exploration commenced
early last spring, by Messrs. Tuttle and Stephens, it is
evident that nothing like a correct idea of the topography
of this region was entertained."
Mr. Owen, after giving a glowing description of the
scenery, and many amusing incidents of the trip, adds:
"We saw no prairie anywhere near the lake; but occasionally, a few rods from the shore, were basins of from
one to five acres devoid of timber, and thickly grown
with grass, known in the Western States as'red top,'
or herd's grass, which here grows wild to the height of
four or five feet.
"It is said the belt of timber is at least two miles wide
all around the lake, getting better as you go back from
the shore, having for its outer margin a heavy growth of
very large white oak, and sugar maple being a secondary
growth. Then the country breaks into the most beautiful and fertile prairie, extending to the Minnesota in a
southern direction, and to the timber bordering on Crow
River on the north.  We have here, taking the entire
circuit of the lake, a body of as fine timbered land as the
Great WVest affords, one hundred miles in extent, and two
in width, with a navigable lake in its center, and the best
of prairie forming its outer boundary. What an enviable
home for the thrifty and affluent agriculturist! "
If our life be spared ten or twenty years, we feel well
assured that here, where now roams in his native pride the
red Daklota, where the camp of the explorer is disturbed at
night by the howl of the hungry wolf, and where the
149 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
only sound of life upon the expansive and solitary waters
is the scream of the affrighted pelican-will spread to
our eyes well-improved and highly-cultivated farms;
herds of fat oxen, sheep, and horses; mansions of wealth,
ease, and luxury, with wellreserved and tastefully-ar ranged groves and lawns surrounding these homes of
luxury and comfort; beautiful and thriving villages at
intervals along the shores; and out upon the waters the
shrill steam whistle will.call to the pier the business man
and idler, as the boat rounds from these jutting headlands
and prepares to land. All this we shall see, if the com mon age of man be allotted us.
The shores of Seneca and Cayuga, in New York, are
only now what these will be in the time we name. Yea,
and in less than one fourth the time we have seen the
approximation to this perfection; and before the writer
of the above had numbered more than half " the common
age of man," he has seen it. These are no chimeras of
the brain, but actual and convincing realities. Churches
have been planted, schools established, and all the elements of society are vigorously at work.
Lake Minnetonka has its outlet in a small stream,
which, after a few miles, gathers again into that beautiful
chain, so celebrated by all visitors, Lake of the Isles, Calhoun, and Harriet. These discharge themselves into a
beautiful creek, which meanders through the loveliest of
all prairies, and in one grand leap creates "Minnehaha
Falls," and then laughingly enters the Mississippi about
six miles below the Falls of St. Anthony.
Far away in the west, where the "Big Waters" rise,
And the fair verdant earth meets the blue-vaulted skies,
Where he graceful fawn gambols o'er flowery plain,
150 
MINNEHAHA.~~'~~/~  
LAKE MINNETONKA.
%
Or flies from the swift-winged arrow in vain;
Where the wail of the red man is caught by the breeze,
As the graves of his fathers in sadness he leaves;
On scenes that are fairer the sun never shone,
'Tis our land of adoption, our chosen bright home.
Hlere anthems of Nature, sonorous and clear,
Ii Falls of St. Anthony ring on the ear;
And "Minnehaha," with a laugh and a leap,
From her green mossy bed sings a lullaby sweet;
And the records of nations are writ in the soil
Where their cities have stood, and the white men now toil.
151 
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
COME with me, kind reader, and have one of the most
delightful rides that this or any other land affords. It
is one of the loveliest of our autumn days. The air is as
balmy as June, and Nature is dressed in her richest robes
of green, slightly tinged with gold and brown. St. Paul
is all astir.  The streets are thronged with country
wagons, loaded with produce; the business man passes
on, with a brisk, determined step; the merchant at his
counter is very busy, for the ladies are all out shopping,
if we were to judge from the array of silks and ribbons in
the streets; the lounger is, as usual, taking his ease about
the doors of the detestable saloons; in short, "everybody
is out," and when we are once out of the crowded street,
inhaling the pure prairie breeze, we will not "look behind
us, nor tarry in all the plain."
Ascending the bluff amid suburban residences and
woodland scenes, we emerge into the finest landscape ever
spread out for the enjoyment of mortals. You ard astonished at the thrifty farms and substantial buildings you
see upon the way, and are half in doubt whether you are
in the real or ideal world. You find it difficult to reconcile your mind to the fact, that this region has not been
settled for ages. Flowers of gold and crimson are blooming along the way; and as we have started out on an
excursion for enjoyment, let us draw it from every source.
Groveland is an appropriate name given to the midway
[1521 
THE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
portion between St. Paul and St. Anthony. Let us wind
around to the opposite shore of this miniature lake, and
revel for a short time amid the flowers of "Groveland
Garden and  Nursery."   Isn't it a fairy-like spot?
Surely our friend Ford, the proprietor, has displayed a
refined and cultivated taste in the arrangement of his
grounds and the innumerable variety of flowers and
plants! Then he makes his plans for utility as well as
beauty.  His nursery embraces nearly every variety of
fruit grown in the East, and his vegetable garden is excelled by none.
Proceeding a mile or two further, amidst uninterrupted
beauty, you get the first distant view of the Falls. How
different from my first view!  Then Nature reigned supreme.  No noisy mill vied with the roar of the cataract;
no bustling village stood upon the ground. Still the
charm is not all dissolved; beauty lingers amid the ruins
that art has made. We wind along upon the high bank,
so high that our heads almost become dizzy in looking
into the shallow stream.
Cheevers' tower, ninety feet high, overlooking this
beautiful region, embracing woodland, bluff and - plain,
streamlet, river and lake, comes now in our way, and we
must ascend, or we shall miss one of the rarest views.
Now we will drive through some of the principal streets,
where all are busy, all astir; and next we will go over to
the Island. The foot-bridge has been washed away, but
this rude wagon-bridge is more secure.  What a change!
How I longed at my first visit to the Falls to stand upon
this Island, but the waters foaming amid the chaos of
rocks prevented. When the dam was built and the water
turned to the West of the Island, I sprang from rock to
rock, delighted in accomplishing what I had so ardently
7*
153 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
desired. The wildness of Nature was then undisturbed.
A year later I stood on the spot again, having reached it
by a foot-bridge, thrown over for convenience, just above
the Falls. A snug little cabin had been built, and here
we dined on the wholesome Yankee dish-" pork and
beans." Now consider the changes in a few brief years.
Improvements of all kinds have been made, rural residences have appeared, and mills of various kinds are
mingling their jargon with the water's cheerful roar.
See you that shanty poised on the edge of the Falls?
What are those men so busy about? If our nerves are
sufficiently strong to walk-a plank over the boiling surge,
we will go out there. Look aloft! or your head will
swim, and then for a ride over the Falls. They are
making shingles by steam.  How fast they turn them off!
We must not, however, tarry longer in the vain effort to
see how near we can come to breaking our necks and fail.
But these huge old rocks! how I love them, with the
bright waters foaming around them!
Our horses must quicken their steps, or we shall be
obliged to shorten our calls. Back to the main land, a
drive of half a mile on Main street, and another bridge
takes us to Nicolett Island, which contains about forty
acres, a most delightful spot for summer residences.
About the middle of the Island, " a small bluff rises some
ten or fifteen feet high, with a slope rounded as if by the
hand of art, which seems to be waiting for a handsome
maasion."
The suspension bridge, built at an expense of seventy
thousand dollars, connects this island with the west'shore; a
noble superstructure, exhibiting the enterprise and progress
of or young Territory. This brings us to Minneapolis, a
beautifully located young town, fast ripening into matu
154 
THE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
rity. Our steeds seem inspired with new life as they
inhale the prairie air, and unimpeded, our wheels hurry
over the smooth road to the Lakes. We alight on the
banks of Calhoun. It is high noon; our appetites are
whetted by the bracing air, and our spirits are exuberant.
We wander off to the grove, arrange our table upon the
grass, and partake of its luxuries with the keenest relish.
Our repast over, we go to the water, where plenty of
skiffs and fishing implements are kept for the use of visi tors. Out on the lake, the fish are dancing about us and
then diving deep, and we watch their graceful movements
in the water, so transparent that we can count the pebbles
at the depth of twenty feet.
Again we are on shore. A walk of a quarter of a mile
brings us to "Lake of the Isles."  How invigorating the
breeze! and how cheering the prospect! One could
almost dream life away in this sweet retirement, enjoying
the sparkling of the waters and the play of the graceful
shadows of the many isles!
Now for a stroll on the shores of Calhoun. The Fairies
are beckoning us onward, and the scene inspires the soul
with a new love for earth and its beauties. Is this the
Fairies' abode, where not a ray can penetrate the dense
foliage; or was it built for the resting of visitors?  A
wood nymph is gliding gracefully through that open space
-no, she is human, for she carries in her hand a basket
of fresh vegetables. H1er address is unaffected and ladylike.  A  smile of satisfaction plays upon her features
when we express our admiration of her home and its rural
charms.  We feel'assured that peace and sweet contentment abide beneath that roof, with love, the crowning
virtue of the wildwood cabin or city mansion. On these
pleasant wooded shores it would be our delight to linger,
155 
FURTHIIER DEVELIOP]MENTS.
skipping stones upon the unruffled surface of the lake,
gathering flowers from its banks, or reposing beneath
those ancient trees!
Again in our carriage, we are rolling over a continuation of the same prairie, in haste to see "Minnehaha!"
Lake Harriet is necessarily left at the right. You must
be content with its cognomen at-your side. We cross the
old bridge built by "Uncle Sam's boys," long before the
first claim cabin was erected on the soil.
Turning to the left, our driver reins up his prancing
steeds, and we alight.  "Why," say you, "do we stop
here?" Come, and I will show you; but first listen to
the melody of waters!  The "ha ha" greets your ear,
but no  "Minne" meets the eyes.  How beautiful the
name, for it is a wild, wild laugh you hear. We part the
foliage, and, standing upon the brink of a chasm seventy
feet deep, we behold the laughing waters, the whole width
of the stream, making the bold leap. Nature speaks, and
you are silent; but admiration is enthroned on the delighted countenance.  Cling to the shrubs and look well
to your feet, for we must go underneath the fall. An
eastern visitor, in relation to this, says: "Who wonders
that the child of the forest, ushered into existence within
hearing of the falling waters, should have named it
'Minnehaha.'  Gaze at it long as you will, walk under
and behind the falling spray, and look at the sky through
the waters, and then, if you do not laugh, say that' Minnehaha' is a misnomer."  Like the "rose in the shower,"
in the lesson of our childhood, we emerge from the spray,
' all dripping and drowning." Look out for your neck,
and we will descend to the rapids. By dint of holding
to trees, we prevent ourselves from stepping to the bottom
at the outset.  A small patch of blue is above us; the
156, 
THE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
towering banks, with their gold and green foliage, are on
the right and left; a perpendicular sheet of white spray
is spread out before us, and behind us the roaring,
tumbling stream hastens to the Mississippi, a few rods
below.
You are in doubt when you think of ascending, but
with the conviction that what has been done can be done,
you start, and somewhat after the manner of the "frog in
the well," you ascend. We linger while I tell you of its
winter beauties, when the congealing spray has dclad each
tree and shrub in a "coat of mail," and rehearse some
pleasing reminiscences of each previous visit.
The beautiful and graphic poem of Rev. Dr. Phelps is
most appropriate here:
When o'er the prairie first
The Indian trod,
And on his vision burst
This work of God,
No wonder he should claim it
A lovely sight,
A laughing sprite,
And shouting forth should name it,
With wrapt delight,
Mlinnehaha I
Long ages past, I ween,
And none came near
To view this charming scene
This music hear.
Before the forest ranger
Heard its sweet clang,
It rushed and rang;
To human eye a stranger,
It smiled and sang,
M.Iinnehaha!
157 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
To summer blooming flowers
That fringe the brook,
To clustering leafy bowers
That on it look,
To the deep vale, extending
Far on below,
Where echoes go,
'Twas ever sweetly sending
Its tuneful flow,
Minnehaha!
When winter's mantling snow
Lay by its side,
When bright flowers ceased to grow
Along its tide;
Amid the frost-harps builded
By the ice-king,
Each silver string
With golden sun-light gilded;
It still did sing
Minnehaha!
Stars in the silent night
Might be enchained,
Birds in their passing flight
Be long detained,
And by this scene entrancing,
Angels might roam,
Or make their home,
Hearing, in waters dancing
'Mid spray and-foam,
. Minnehaha!
Methinks there is a strain,
A saddened sound,
A half-concealed refrain,
A requiem found,
A tear drop softly falling
Along the steep,
158 
TIE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
In the wild leap
Of sparkling waters, calling,
For them that sleep,
Minnehaha!
Thousands who erst have viewed
This wild cascadeWild sons of solitude,
Who hither strayedi:ave passed away for ever!
Come they no more,
Nor hear the roar
Of this bright, laughing river,
Singing of yore,
Minnehaha!
But hardy pioneers,
A pale-faced throng,
Surmounting toils and fears  Stalwart and strong,
Their eastern homes forsaking
For this Great West,
Their chosen rest,
Blooms in the desert making  Are welcome, blest!
Minnehaha!
Shout to the sons of peace
A glad "what cheer,"
Whose pilgrim bands increase
With every year;
Whose art and taste are giving,
To lake and land,
To prairie grand,
A glory bright and living,
That long shall stand    Minnehaha!
Sing to the rising State,
With cities fair, -
159 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
Whose power and honor great,
Her sons shall share:
Bidding all foes defiance,
Their happy choice
Shall then rejoice,
While Freedom, Truth, and Science
Blend with thy voice,
Minnehaha!
Sing on-a hundred years,
And then how bright
This glorious realm appears
To human sight!
All good things here shall enter;
Blessings shall teem,
Religion beam,
Our country's crown and center
This shall seem!    Minnehaha I"
And so it will be the heart and center of America!
Look upon this glorious land and doubt if you can.
From Minnehaha we have a fine drive of two miles
to the Fort. The St. Louis I-Iouse is on our way. Until
recently it was a dilapidated mass of stone and mortar,
having been commenced many years ago by one who
had not "counted the cost." Enlarged, improved and
completed, it is now a delightful summer resort for souttherners and a great convenience to the excursionist
We cannot pass the GaTrison Cemetery without a passing - notice.  No marble slab marks the soldier's grave,
but his memory is enshrined, no doubt, in fond and loving
hearts. The oldest grave there is that of an infant of Col.
Snelling, the first white child born in Minnesota, and the
first over whose remains $ grave-stone was placed.
Morgan's bluff, one mile to the right, is a sacred spot
160 
THE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
Iw )~..
We can discern the rude slab which marks the resting
place of two bright boys, of about the same age, son and
grand-son of the Chaplain-eachl an only son, and one,
ol a widowed mother.  It was a sad, sad day, when they
were committed to their cold bed, and bleeding hearts
"would not be comforted."  Over them is written this
inscription, in Latin: "Lovely and pleasant in their lives,
and in death not divided."
On my first visit to the Fort, on the prairie which environs it, a tame buffalo was grazing, and the red man's
teepee was pitched here and there in strange contrast with
the elegance and refinement within the walls. Nature
was arrayed in her mantle'of green; rarely, if ever, had
my eyes opened on a scene of such loveliness, and emotions new and wholly indescribable were awakened within
my heart. I had found much to admire where I had
anticipated nothing congenial, and refined companionship
where I had expected to be isolated amid the rudest specimens of humanity. I drank deep from the fount of happiness, and from that day my path was one of flowers and
sunshine.
Captain Eastman was then in command. His wife is a
lady of considerable literary merit, and his own graphic
pencil portrays scenes from nature like a true and faithful
artist.  "The Dakota," from her pen, exhibits the native
life and character in a charming manner.  The "Iris,"
illustrated by her husband, is a beautiful volume more
recently published.
In Doctor Turner and his inestimable wife, I found firm
and valuable friends, but they were long since removed
to another station. She was the daughter of Robert
Stewart, former partner of John Jacob Astor, and one of
the founders of Astoria, in Oregonl. Hiis valuable and
161
0 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
eventful life terminated very suddenly, in Chicago, in
the winter of 1849.  To Dr. T. I am indebted for much
valuable information, as well as some of the most delightful drives and rides I have ever enjoyed. Hie was, emphatically, a gentleman and a Christian, every way worthy
of the possession of so rich a treasure as she, who has no
superiors, in all that makes the true woman, refined lady,
and affectionate wife.
Now, turn your eye to the Minnesota river, turning,
winding and smiling among the green foliage of grove
and plain. I have somewhat to tell you of this river by
and by; for the present, be content with gazing and listening to its own expressive language, as it winds onward
to the Mississippi. Then look at those commanding bluffs
on the opposite shore! Now a steamer is coming up the
river and another coming down the Minnesota.  Until
1853 this was Indian territory.  Are we not a progressive
people?  But the lengthening shadow of the Fort admonishes us that we must not pause for a longer view.
Now  we wind down this white sand-hill, the Fort
buildings looking down imposingly upon us. You see
that tree just beneath their walls? Once I climbed up
that perpendicular sand-bank to enjoy the poetry of sitting
beneath its shadow by moonlight. My descent was a
part less poetical.  It is always more dangerous in the
physical, as well as the moral world; to go down hill than
up. The company could render no assistance, but I managed, by holding to a twig" here and there, and fastening
my heel occasionally in the sand, to descenid to a level
with the rest of creation, with no bones broken.
Mendota, "mingling of waters," lies over there to the
right.  It has, for years, been the seat of the American
Fur Company's operations-a pleasant spot; but with
162 
THE DRIVE OF ALL VISITORS.
no prospect of a town. Pilot Knob, in the rear, gives
one a more extended view than any other po)int in the
country.
Crossing at the ferry, by means of rope and pulleys,
we are again on the east side of the Mississippi, and
have now a pleasant drive of six miles to St. Paul, over
a level road, commanding an extensive and fine prospect. We must visit Fountain Cave, two miles front
town, in a ravine some two or three hundred yards in
depth.   The entrance is a beautiful amphitheater of
pure white sand stone, delightfully shaded, about three
hundred feet in length, the height gradually diminishing
until it is quite difficult to stand erect. Formerly, in a
long narrow passage, leading from this room, by an
ascent of some three or four feet, one emerged into the
fountain room, the noise of its waterfall greeting the ear
at the entrance.   Beautiful as this room appears on
illumination, one feels the chills and damps of the
tomb, on having the lights extinguished.
The terminus of this cave has not been discovered.
The long, low passage is now  the bed of a perpetual
stream, and the difficulty of proceeding has hitherto prevented extended explorations.
We have now made the drive of all visitors; another
drive of twenty miles, withf so much to admire and enjoy, can hardly be found. Come to Minnesota, kind
friend, and I will be your guide through these Elysian
fields.
163 
CtHAPTER XXXIII..
CITY OF ST. PAUL, ITS GROWTH AND PROSPERITY.
THE same act of Congress which organized the territory, made Saint Paul the capital. Then it contained
not more than three hundred souls. At the close of
1856, very few of the original buildings are remaining;
for they have given place to the neat and tasteful cottage, the modern, elegant mansion, the superb and substantial business block, and various public buildings,
evincing the intelligence and enterprise of the ten thousand people now within the city limits.
"Saint Paul is a city of three elevations or plateaux,
overlooking the Mississippi, and in the rear surrounded
by a gracefully undulating and elevated ridge, already
covered with cottages, and destined to afford sites for
many more handsome suburban residences." The cen
tral plateau is about ninety feet above the water, with
a good steamboat landing at each extremity.
The progress of this city is without a parallel. Its
physical, mental, moral, religious, intellectual, and educational developments, are astonishing even to those who
have participated in its wonder workings. The Yankee
element,  "enlarged and expanded, and having on a
double pressure of steam," has diffused itself into every
department of society. The latent principles of his nature are fully developed, and he is girded anew for
action.
Society has its variety of shades and grades, every
[164] 
CITY OF ST. PAUL.
class being found in our capital.  The aristocrat and the
plebeian-the rich and the poor, the learned and the
ignorant, the virtuous and the vicious, the infidel and
the Christian-all are here.  Those who would  toil for
the good of their race, will here find a field commensurate to their desires, and no time to hang heavily upon
their hands.
The soul-destroying rumseller has his licensed dram
shops-the sources of pauperism,. insanity, murder, and
death, and his victims are numerous, though, as stated
heretofore, there is a strong temperance "Maine Law"
minority here, which will eventually triumph. The
gambler, too, infests the town, and taints the moral
atmosphere; his pestiferous influence insinuating itself
into fashionable life, in the form of "card playing" and
wine bibbing, mutiplying both drunkards and gamblers
to curse our community.
The literary societies, schools, and churches, speak
their own merits; and no town in America presents
greater business inducements to the poor, the rich, or
to him who would be rich. The rise of real estate is
astonishing, and almost without a parallel. A correspondent'of the "Chicago Press," spending a few days in
this city, with a just appreciation of its merits, thus
writes, under date of November 20, 1855:
"Here I am in St. Paul, the fastest and smartest city,
of its size, in the world, by all odds. You see this
striking characteristic in the place as soon you land-you
see it in every man, woman, and child's countenance
that you meet. They have the appearance of heroes, on
whom the eyes of the world are cast, and who are determined to shine on history's page as neither laggards
nor cowards. They seem to feel that they are the
I Go 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
nucleus of a great city-the founders of a truly magnificent and beautiful country.  If ever any city had re-soni
to be called'Young America,' in its character, that city
is St. Paul. The property holders here are men who
possess the elements of go-a-headitiveness in its highest
forms. Bold, resolute, and determined, they have set
out to make the city of St. Paul the greatest city in the
north-western territory; and there is every probability
that they will be successful."
The following computation, prepared and furnished me
by Rev. A. M. Torbet, will be of value to those who desire particular information respecting our young city.
"The city of St. Paul is situated on the north side of
the Mississippi River, and extends about three and one
fourth miles from south-west to north-east. That portion of it which is surveyed into lots, contains 473
blocks; 427 of these are subdivided, and if the remain
ing 46 blocks were also subdivided, the entire number
of city lots would be about 4,800. Allowing 800 of
these for business purposes, and allowing 250 residents
to occupy two lots each, for their dwellings, we find that
there would remain 3,500 lots for dwellings, or about
8,500 resident buildings could be erected on the present
surveyed plot of St. Paul, allowing'eight persons to each
dwelling, the population would amount to 28,000 inhabitants. Ten thousand of that number have already
found a home in this city, and the balance will, doubtless,
be found here at no very distant day. From these data,
it can be seen, at a glance, that the value of real estate
in this city must have a rapid advance over even present
prices, though it has an amount of more beautiful, elevated, and attractivo building sites surrounding it than
is to be found around any other on this continent."
166 
CITY OF ST. PAUL.
The citizens of St. Paul are resolved to keep up with
the age in all improvements, and they have the wealth,
energy, and perseverance, adequate to the accomplish
ment of whatever they undertake.
An elevated bridge is soon to span the Mississippi,
connecting east and west St. Paul. - Stock is fast taken
for railroad connection with St. Anthony; and the
several flouring mills and many saw mills are inadequate
to the demands of the population.
The state-house, an imposing structure of brick, oc cupies a commanding position, and is an ornament to the
city; the court-house is a substantial building of ample
dimensions; the "Baldwin-School" is a chaste edifice;
the "College of St. Paul" is every way attractive; the
"Pioneer School" is quite unpretending; though after
ten years "paddling its own  canoe," amid alternate
"lights and shades," now rowing through shoals and
quicksands, and then through threatening breakers;
now through calm blue waters, and again on turbid billows, at last it has launched forth into the broad deep
sea, attesting the principle that the strength of a vessel
is known only by trial.
The most substantial, tasteful, and expensive erection
for educational purposes (if we except the college, and indeed it is scarcely inferior to that), is a public school
edifice, of stone, which would be an ornament to the old
cities of the East, costing from $7,000 to $8,000.
St. Paul  numbers  eight  churches,  viz.:  Baptist,
Methodist, Old and New School Presbyterian, "House
of Hope" (Presbyterian), Episcopalian, German Methodist, and Lutheran, besides the German and American
Roman Catholic.
The frontier log tavern has given place to first-class
167 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
hotels, among which the "American," "Winslow," and
"Fuller House," are most prominent.  The latter has
been built and furnished within the last year, at an expense of $150,000, and is capable of accomodating one
thousand persons.
St. Paul has boasted of four well-patronized daily
papers; but from a matrimonial alliance, the number is
diminished one; the number of weeklies is the same,
and  there is one German  paper.  There  are about
twenty-five published in the territory; and the knowledge of its resources, thus diffused, has been a fruitful
cause of its advance in population.
Gas works are constructed, which will contribute
greatly to the convenience and comfort of our citizens;
and the. first perusal of this book will probably be by
the aid of the improved light.
There are many good, substantial warehouses, which
do a joint annual business of nearly one million dollars.
Bankers and real estate dealers are daily coing money
by the hundreds, and artizans of all kinds corme in for
their full share.
St. Paul  has nearly  one  hundred  "deep-read,"
thoroughly practical lawyers, and a score of doctorsall doing a good thriving business, though the latter are
obliged to engage in pursuits distinct from their profession in order to make even a tolerable livelihood, the
general healthfulness of the country rendering their prc->
fessional services rarely necessary.
168 
CHAPTER  XXXIV.
THE STRANGER'S FUNERAL.
IT was the first Sabbath in autumn, bright and golden
as any of its predecessors, when the several bells of our
city sent forth their peals of invitation to the sanctuary.
The waiting corngregation at the Baptist Church wondered
at the pastor's delay, while the bell prolonged its usual
measured toll.  At length the sound of many footsteps
is heard in the vestibule. WNVith slow and measured
tread they enter the audience room-the man of God,
followed by eight young men, who bear tile corpse of a
comrade, and these again by some thirty others, who had
come to pay their last tribute of regard to one we knew
not whom.  The only answer to the whispered inquiry
was-"A STRANGER."   But though  a stranger in a
strange land, it was evident that he had not been unloved in health, unattended in sickness, nor unlamented
in death.  The very presence of some forty fellowboarders (and we have rarely looked upon a more interesting or manly group), seated as the only mourners
of the occasion, with solemn face and tearful eye, spoke
more than words their high respect for the deceased.
These had supplied the place of" loved ones at home;"
had smoothed the pillow of sickness, and attended him
to the dark stream; and they now, without inquiry, or
knowledge of his means, had attended to every minutiae
of the last sacred rites which the most loving friends
could have suggested.  Noble hearted young men! may
8                                 [169]
0 
FURTI-IER DEVELOPMENTS.
heaven as richly reward them as their own approving
consciences!
As the speaker proceeded with the discourse, overflowing eyes attested the emotion of those who had never
before heard of the deceased. Hiearts deeply sympathized
with friends in a distant city, who were yet strangers to
the deep affliction that had fallen upon them.
A few months previous James S- had left his
Philadelphia home, to try his fortune in this youthful
territory.- Fired with youthful aspirations, he had entered on a course which promised to satisfy his ambitious
mind; but in an unexpected hour the hand of disease
was fastened upon him; partial aberration of mind succeeded, and the "last enemy" claimed his victim. A
long line of our citizens on foot and in private carriages
followed  the  stranger to "Oakland Cemetery,"  and
dropped a tear upon the green sod as they left him with
the sleepers there, while the wood-birds caroled their anthems amid the fading boughs above his head.
A  few days later, the pastor who officiated in these
obsequies received a valuable token of regard from these
same young men, who so nobly incurred the burial expenses; thus further testifying their high estimate of their
deceased friend. Such instances are not rare. We have
cited this to illustrate the kindness which characterizes
the citizens of St. Paul in particular, and the territory in
general. There have been and still may be exceptions,
but circumstances demanding relief, or sympathy, need
only to be known, and willing hearts and ready hands
are sure to move.
The "Young Men's Christian Association," fostered
into a healthful existence in the autumn of 1856, by the
persevering effortsmof Rev. A. M. Torbet and Mr. D. D.
170
0 
THE STRANGER'S FUNERAL.
Morrill, already has a fund of several hundreds, and a
well-supplied and a nicely-arranged reading room, open
to all. The association is fast gaining friends, popularity,
and influence, and invites the stranger and the world weary to share its benefits.
The Minnesota'IHistorical Society, which owes its
existence to Rev. E. D. Neill, is a valuable institution,
founded in the infancy of the territory. It has secured
many valuable historical antiquities and scientific speci
mens. The corner-stone of the IHistorical building was
laid in June, 1856, with enthusiastic speeches, and much
pomp of civic and military parade.  Never before had
there been so grand a " turn out" on any public occasion
in St. Paul.
The corner-stone has also been laid of the Masonic
building, which is to cost forty thousand dollars, and will
outvie in elegance any public building of its size in the
northwest.
"Whitney's Daguerrian Gallery" has a well-earned
reputation, which will not suffer so long as its business is
conducted by the accomplished artist, Mr. M. C. Tuttle,
to whose skill we are specially indebted for the illustrations of this work.
Connected with the above is the studio of an artist,
whose skillful designs from fancy, and the delicate
touches of whose pencil, are only surpassed by his unobtrusive modest merit. Whoever visits St. Paul should
not fail to call at these rooms on Third street and add
his own to the fine collection of pictures which adorn the
walls.
171
.1 
CHAPTER XXXV.
A STRANGER'S OPINION OF-ST. PAUL.
THE language of the interested citizens of St. Paul,
respecting their young and thriving city, is universally
the same, and might be regarded as a " one-sided view."
We therefore choose, as far as possible, to allow dtsinterested                  persons to speak,  that in the    "mouth of two or three
witne        sses " the       truth may be  established in the mind of
the reader. We subjoin a letter from a gentleman, making
a second visit here, bearing date
"June 28, 1856.
"St. Paul has adv'anced very considerably for twelve
months past, more so, perhaps, than any place I have
visited. Not that its population has increased very materially or in a greater ratio than many other cities of the
West.  Its advance has been one more of wealth, enterprise and energy, than of population. The question,
'Will St.'Paul be a large city?' appears to have been
solved,' and that in the affirmative, since my last visit;
and there-is little or no croaking regarding the'crash'
that people all around had predicted would overwhelm
it sooner or later. The fact is, its position as a great
commercial center of Minnesota-as a grand center for
the territory, North and West is now fairly and irrevocably established, and St. Paul cannot fail to become a
large and populous city. Those whose fortunes are lockedcl
up in her' corner lots,' now feel safe; they talk, act and
1l72] 
A STRANGER'S OPINION OF ST. PAUL.
walk with a firm, don't-care-gait, and rattle the loose
change in their pockets as if they'dined on ducats.'
Her merchants also feel satisfied; ask prices with a'stiff
upper lip;' despatch a customer without worshiping
him, and drive fast horses after business hours, that will
vie with any city in the Union.  St. Paul is comparatively an infant city, with a population of probably ten
thousand souls; but here,'every man counts.' Here
men are picked, not from the fossilized haunts of old
fogyism, but from the swiftest blood of the nation.
Every man here, to use a western expression,'is a steamboat,' and is determined to make his mark in the history
of Minnesota.
"One thing is sure to attract the attention of eastern
men on their first visit to St. Paul. They come expecting to find a new, unshaped city, with a rude, rough and
unrefined people; but they find a much higher degree of
elegance, fashion and display, than in any other city of
its size in the world. It is decidedly fast in its character. The ladies revel in finest silks and satins; the gents
carry gold-headed canes, keep splendid driving establishments, and there is a much larger display of finery and
jewelry than is consistent with a modest taste. All this,
however, is indicative of success. It requires prosperity
to keep up such luxuries; and although extravagance
may be indulged in to an extent not commendable, still,
as the city settles down, these matters will regulate
themselves.
"There are a large number of new buildings in course
of erection all Qver the city; some of a most permanent
and costly character. Several large warehouses are building; some of stone, others of brick, on a scale of magnitude known only in the West.
173
0 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
"The new hotel, one of the largest out of New York,
to be kept by Messrs. Long & Brother, well known as the
first landlords in the Territory, will be equal to the best
in the United States.
"The progress of St. Paul has not been only material.
In all that pertains to intellectual and spiritual advancement, there is a healthy action kept up- by the people.
Schools and churches are well and willingly supported,
and societies, both literary and benevolent, are kept up
with spirit and zeal.
"A bridge is about to be built across the Mississippi
at this point.
"The bluffs all around the city are now being thickly
dotted with splendid residences; and if things progress
as they have, during the past year, it will not be many
years before St. Paul casts in the shade some of the older
eastern cities of wealth and importance."
Another writer from the " Great West," thus discourses
with an eastern editor:
"It is a strange medley, indeed, that which you meet
aboard a Mississippi steamer. An Australian gold-hunter,
just returned by way of England, from Melbourne; a
merchant on a trip of pleasure; a professor in an eastern
University, going out to invest in Minnesota; a St. Croix
raftsman, returning from a trip down river, with a small
fortune of logs; a New York doctor, with a pocket full
of land warrants; an eastern man, who administers electrochemical baths; a South Carolina boy, with one thousand
dollars and a knowledge of double-entry; a sturdy frontier
man, with a saw mill for the interior; an engineer, who
escaped the Panama fever on the Isthmus railroad; a
Yankee schoolmaster, who has become a small speculator
174 
A STPANGER'S OPINION OF ST. PAUL.
in oats; and scores of others of doubtful character, who
sport heavy moustaches, and keep their mouths shut.
Verily, a strange medley do you find aboard a Mississippi
steamer!
" Now, half wearied by observation, you sit listlessly in
the front gallery of the great steamer, watching the golden
clouds piling themselves high towards the zenith, in
preparation for a regal sunset. Presently the crowd
thickens about you, the knowing ones are on the alert,
and all catch the spirit. You turn to your next neighbor
and ask him the cause of excitement. He glances at the
shore and replies,' St. Paul's just round the next curve.'
The boat presses nobly against the current, and you feel
yourself swinging around towards the west. The ladies
have come from their cabin to the forward deck, books
are laid aside, Fremont and Buchanan are forgotten, conversation flags, and all eyes are-strained towards one point.
Another turn of the wheel, we shoot from behind the
forest, and the miraculous city bursts into view. First, an
amphitheater-like basin, benched with ephemeral houses,
and a huge steam-mnill puffing in the mid arena.  Then the
high bluff, crowded with more substantial tenements of
brick or stone, from among which spires and cupolas of
churches and public buildings rise with sharp outlines
against the orange clouds.   Coaches from the different
hotels, warned by our whistle, already cluster Lund the
plank. Runners from different establishments show a
commendable zeal in skimming the cards of their respective  establishments.'Winslow  House!''Snelling
House!''Merchant's!'' American!''Fuller Itouse!' are
shouted from the coaches.  One by one the vehicles are
filled and rolled away; the freight of stoves, groceries,
grain and machinery, is being carried ashore, when we
I17 _ 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS..
press our way through the crowd, and seek a private
boarding-house high up the bluff.
"St. Paul, the diadem city, because standing at the
head of navigation, glows really a bright jewel on the
brow of the Father of Waters. It is situated in lat. 44
deg. 52 min. 46 see., long. 93 deg. 4 min. 54 see., 2,070
miles from the mouth of the Alississippi,* and about 350
above Dunleith, the western terminus of the Galena and
Chicago Railroad connection with the East. During
its long winding route to the Gulf, the great river falls
some eight hundred feet.  St. Paul, situated on a bluff,
may be considered about nine hundred feet above the
ocean.
"The history of the town is brief, and no where out of
the Great West can we find an analogous instance of prosperity. Eight years ago, had we come up the river as we
have done to-day, and swept in against the unimproved
levee, quite a different scene would have been spread
before us.  Then high on the bluff a half dozen huts environed the diminutive Catholic Chapel, and had the
whole town turned out to meet us we would not have
seen over one hundred and fifty people. Even at that
time a small irregular town plot had been staked out, but
no one, not even the projectors of the village, had yet, in
imagination or judgment, penetrated'the teeming future
of their ifant settlement.  Indians were then abundant,
and daily visited the town, exercising their pilfering propensities, greatly to the annoyance of the pioneers.
"When on the 3d of March, 1849, Congress organized
the territory, and by an organic act constituted St. Paul
the capital of the inchoate state, then were the people's eyes
* The writer probably means in a straight line, for with its windings
it is nearly 4,000 miles.
1711 
A STRANGER'S OPINION OF ST. PAUL.
anointed, then they saw a second Chicago springing up on
the forest-covered bluff, and property at a single leap went
up two hundred per cent.  Addition followed addition,
quarter section after.quarter section was cut into building
lots, until the city plan reached its present limits. Each
addition was laid off according to the caprice of the owner,
and such was the variety of tastes that the finished plot
of St. Paul has much of the irregularity of a European
metropolis.
" From the date of the organic act immigrants flocked
into the new capital in great numbers. They came chiefly
from the Northern States. Maine has a great many hardy
men, reared among the pineries of the Penobscot and
Kennebec, and perhaps is the most numerously represented of any of the States."
The first Legislative Assembly convened in the
Central House, on the 2nid of September, 1849; now
a brick capitol of imposing proportions, furnishes more
commodious quarters.
The number of steamboat arrivals during the early
period of the town's history, was as follows:
In 1846  there were   24
"  1847               47
"  1848       "       63
"  1849       "        85
"  1850       "      104
"  1851       "      119
"  1852       "      171
"  1853       "      235
"1854         "      301
"  1855    -  "      563
"  1856       "      759
177
in the trade, 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
in 1856 there were seventy-nine.  The average date of
the opening of steamboat navigation is the 10th of April,
and the average close the 18th of November, making the
period of navigation about 219 days.  The average annual
increase of the number of boats for the last 12 years, is
thirty-six per cent. An increase for the next four
years of only twenty per cent. will make the number of
arrivals in 1860 nearly 1,600. Think of this, you, who
have doubts as to what St. Paul is, and what it will be I
The arrival of the first steamer, is invariably retarded
from one to three weeks, after the river is clear above
and below, by ice in Lake Pepin. This, too, is the case
at the close of navigation. If by any process we could
induce this lake to conform to the habits of the river
we should have annually four-weeks, at least, added to
the season of navigation.
The arrival of the first steamer of the season is a great
day for St. Paul.  Anxiety has long run high; eyes are
strained in anxious expectation, and when finally it
rounds the bend, hundreds of citizens gathered at the
river, send forth a prolonged shout of welcome, and the
bluffs echo the general joy.
Such is the ambition to be the first boat through the
lake, that on one occasion, when several had long waited
for the ice to yield, and some had returned in despair,
both passengers and crew of the "Highland  Mary,"
volunteered their services, and actually chopped the ice
till there was no further impediment to progress, and
received, as they well merited, hearty shouts of congratulation from the people or St. Paul.
178 
CHAPTER XXXVI.
ST. CROIX VALLEY.
STILLWATER, on the St. Croix, was the first town in
the territory to attain to any importance.  A  saw-mill
was built there in 1844. This formed the nucleus of a
village, and as for a long time the supply of lumber
was little more than sufficient for home  use, the other
points remained unsupplied.  So in 1847, when St. Paul
could boast but three white families, Stillwater  had
a score, and nestling sweetly beneath towering bluffs, was
the' self-styled metropolis." Soon, however, the tables were
turned, and the former outstripped the latter.
For several successive years, Stillwater made a slow
and steady increase; the lumbering interests giving it
its chief importance. In 1856 it has a population of about
3,000, and with every element of business life at work,
the town is fast spreading itself on and above the bluff
which overlooks the placid waters of Lake St. Croix.
It is the seat of Washington county, contains the Courthouse and Penitentiary, has several excellent hotels,
but in church building, has not kept pace with other
towns. The original portion of the town has frequently
suffered severely from inundations, and persons have
been obliged to go to and from their dwellings and
places of business  in boats, which  constantly  plied
through Main Street.  During an unprecedented rise in
1850, the "Lamartine," a large craft steamer, passed
up this street, and fastened her cable to the pillars ot
the "Minnesota IHouse."
The St. Croix derives its name from a Frenchman,
LlT91 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
who was drowned near its mouth at an early period in
the history of the territory.  It enters the Mississippi
about fifty miles below St. Anthony, by a frith or lake,
is twenty-five miles long, and from one to five wide.
The first steamer that undertook to navigate its waters
was the "Palmyra," on July 17th, 1838.  Then  its
valley was regarded as valuable only for its lumbering
facilities, but now rich thriving farms skirt its banks,
and several fine little towns are mirrored in its waters.
Prescott and Point Douglass, at the mouth  of the St.
Croix, the former on the Wisconsin, and the latter on
the Minnesota side, have equal geographical advantages,
but  the former the greater real importance.   Point
Douglass, unlike other western towns, has been for a
long time in statu quo.
Hudson in Wisconsin, is a quiet thriving town, reposing on the verdant hill side, and smiling amid graceful foliage. It is surrounded by majestic bluffs, the
ihighest of which claims a passing notice.  By toiling
over a circuitous route, I had ascended that bluff, and
stood upon the brow of the abrupt summit that overlooks the town;  white cottages appeared in pleasing
contrast with the verdure of spring; the lake stretched
far away  with bold broken  shores, and the mellow
evening sunlight threw a halo upon  the scene.  From
more distant objects I drew my attention to those nearer,
and there, upon the very pinnacle, was a grave! In
surprise and wonder I sat down to meditate. The lines
of the immortal Gray seemed strikingly appropriate
"Perhaps in this neglected spot is laid
Some heart once pregnant with celestial fire,
Hands that the rod of empire might have swayed,
Or woke to ecstacy the living lyre."
180 
ST. CROIX VALLEY.
" Here rests his head upon the lap of earth,
A youth to fortune and to fame unknown,
Fair science frowned not on his humble birth,
And Melancholy marked him for her own."
Friends in a far-off land might long have  wept over
the unknown fate of him who slept beneath the flowergrown mound,  and never perhaps would they learn
his untimely or early death! It was a sweet resting
place, almost up among  the clouds; indeed, sunshine
often settled upon that grave when the frowning clouds
were beneath. I plucked a flower, and pensively
started on my return to town, where I sought of an
"old settler," the solving of the mystery of the lone grave.
Years before a town was contemplated at that or any
other point on the lake, a young adventurer admiring
the gorgeous sunset scene, and with his eye upon this
bluff, desired his companion to bury him there, should
his grave be made inthlis country; a promise was made,
and one week from that day was fulfilled. While
flowers were blooming over his resting place, my  mind
instinctively  sought  that  land "where  they  never
fade," and where the weary traveler shall never say
"I am sick." In that new earth, which shall be the
home of the blessed, the flowers shall bloom in perpetual beauty, but they will never adorn the grave.
181 
CHAPTER XXXVII.
A VISIT TO TIHE FALLS OF ST. CROIX.
IN 1847 I made my first visit to the valley of the
St. Croix, which extends as far as the falls, some thirty
miles above Stillwater. At this place I was passing
the holidays with a friend of recent date, as all western
ones then were, when an invitation was received from
the family of Judge Perkins, to make them a visit.
We needed no arguments to induce compliance, and
a pleasant party, whose hearts were gushing with delight, were coursing the only thoroughfare along the
river.  Naught broke upon the silence save the merry
jingle of sleigh bel's, and the spirit's overflow of
the happy company.   The  blood-stained snow  upon
the ice, told of the fatal encounter of the wolf and deer;
and the wondering gaze of the wandering Chippewa
gave evidence that such companies as ours were not
frequent in those wilds.
Amid scenery where nature had displayed her wildest
freaks, and where art had seemed to copy from her
example, we rode until we reached the mansion, and
drew around the cheerful fireside and well-filled board
of our refined and intelligent friends. That, like a
subsequent visit, is an oasis in life's retrospect. The
appointments of the house were in keeping with  the
dignified affability of our host, and the lady-like, graceful demeanor of our hostess.
In the then limited state of society, the distance of
[182] 
VISIT TO THE FALLS OF ST. CROIX.
thirty or forty miles was little barrier to social intercourse.
No envy or jealousy crept in to mar and destroy the
mutual confidence and well-appreciated congeniality
of friends, who, separated from all the rest of the world,
were all the dearer to each other.
So enraptured had I been with my winter visit to
the Falls, that I could not refrain from compliance
with the oft-repeated request, to repeat my visit in the
bloom of summer. During the June rise of 1850, when
the streams were all swollen to an unprecedented height,
the steamer " Lamartinie," having on board a pleasant
party, undertook the trip.
The wild, romantic, beauty of the river banks was
heightened by the richness  of their verdure.   The
numerous wooded islands were so many Edens reposing
on the bosom of the stream, and the dark shadows from
shore, sent a thrill through every fiber of the soul.
The scenery tasks my powers of description; sublime
and magnificent are meager terms with which to describe the approach to the Falls. For two miles the
river has forced its way through rocks, which might
seem, by some frightful convulsion of nature, to have
been thrown asunder, forming an almost perpendicular
wall of an hundred feet or more on each side.  Surmounting these majestic battlements, is a wild chaos
of rocks and trees in grand confusion, mocking at our
diminutive appearance so far below.
- Dangers began to threaten the boat as it neared this
point, and prudence forbade further attempts at ascending the rapid current. But I had resolved "not
to give it up so," and as a skiff was to make the trial
I gave myself to the care of a ministerial friend, with
the assurance that trusty and skillful oarsmen were to
183 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
manage the frail craft. There were several gentlemen,
myself the only lady, and the skiff was loaded nearly
to overflowing.
The swift current would sometimes send us dizzily
backwards, with the rapidity of a rail car, and threaten
to dash us against the rocks, from which there
could have been no escape; with lightning speed the
oars would be thrust into a crevice in the rock, and
arrest our downward progress; vigorous efforts would
bring us forward again, and again we were whirling
back. Once as we were on the point of being dashed
on the rocks, the man in the prow sprang to a foothold,
held on to the line until the eddy was passed, and thus
saved us from inevitable destruction.
The impressive grandeur of the scene, was not unnoticed, nothwithstanding our imminent peril; and stoiclike I sat, with folded arms, gazing on the sublime
spectacle before me; every nerve strained to its utmost
tension.'Twas well the eyes were thus riveted, for a
dizzy head like mine, would, by a moment's gaze at
the whirling water, have been quite sure to-capsize the
boat.' 
Suddenly my eye caught sight of a delicately hued
flower, modestly bowing a welcome, and a "never fear."
It had performed its mission, for my soul was inspired
with new courage, and confidence in the governing and
providential care of its Creator, and I said to myself,
"If God so clothes and protects the flowers of the forest,
which to-morrow fade and die, how  much more will
he care for thee, child of immortality!"  In contrast
with the delicate flower, and yet the product of the-same
Almighty hand, appeared the notable chimney, which,
detached from the main land, rises sixty feet above the
184 
VISIT TO TIIE FALLS OF ST. CROIX.
water.  Huge oblong rocks seem to have been thrown
together by some freak of the elements, and thus in
ir-regular order, or regular disorder, bid defiance to
all who desire to scale their summits.
The dangers to which we were exposed, are nrot
always attendant upon the voyage up this stream. In
low water it can be ascended with comparative ese,
and small boats have even gone up the rapids to the
foot of the falls.  The stream here is so narrow, and sich
is the position of the warehouse, seen nearly a stile
below, that it seems to occupy the entire width, and
impresses one as being the terminus of navigation, if not
of land conveyance.
One mile accomplished, and the most desperate, of
all efforts must be made, for here was a bend in the
river, around which the waters raged with madness.
A few quick words passed between the men, and
Now mind your oars-we are in it," was followed by the
determined stroke of the oars; when "Danger is over"
enabled us for the first to breathe freely; and swift
as an arrow we shot across the river, and heartily
rejoiced to stand on terra firma.
From this point the rapids proper  commence,  so
that all merchandize must be discharged at the warehouse; and so narrow is the stream, that boats coming
here must back out for half a mile.  A circumstance was
related to me by Captain Smith, whose boat was among
the first to arrive at this point, when there were few
others than lumbermen in the vicinity. These gathered
to the number of sixty or seventy, and came on board
clamorous in demand for liquor. The captain was St then,
as he has been since that time, running a Temperance
Sabbath-keeping boat;  still he refused.   Continuing
185 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
peremptory in their demand, in order to bring him to
terms, they went on shore, ascended the bank far above,
and commenced rolling rocks upon the boat. As the
only  alternative  for safety, he  promised  to  "treat
round," if they would desist. Forming a circle, the
"flowing bowl" went round and round, while in reply
to remonstrances, they insisted that they "had not drunk
round," nor had they until the whole company were
intoxicated.
A windlass raises freight from the deck of the boat
to the floor of the warehouse, and thence on an inclined
plain it is raised to the plain above. This is the nearest
approachable point to the town, one mile distant.
A  sequestered walk, after we had slaked our thirst
at a spring, and a warm greeting, awaited our arrival at
Wildwood  Cottage,"  the fairy-like mansion of our
excellent friends.   Here the wild and romantic  admirably contrasted with the elegant and refined. The
chaste dwelling, of Gothic style, looked  as if it had
ali ghte(l from another planet, and  chanced to find a
lodgment  there.  In front we had a fine view of the
Falls, and the boiling rapids; and their music quite
forbade our attempts at conversation.
We were not satisfied with treading the rich carpets
within, while there were such inviting prospects without.   A  spacious  enclosure  surrounded  the house,
containing also the rustic arbor, and majestic forest trees,
where birds had built their nests, and cheered the
inmates of the mansion with their morning, noon-day,
and evening songs. HIere the witch hazel, and brier
bush grew, and the gray old rocks contrasted with the
many-colored wild flowers. The out-buildings are arranged for ornament as well as convenience, all denoting
186 
A VISIT TO THE FALLS OF ST. CROIX.
the taste of the proprietor, and comfort of the occupants.
Here was an enclosed pond, with the tame and wild
goose swimming upon its waters; a poultry yard, containing the usual varieties of domestic fowls; and a house
for Juno, a beautiful spotted fawn, which at a call.
would come and eat from our hand. We~ambled at
the Falls, got into all the dangerous places we could
find, galloped over the country amid the picturesque
scenery, and were filled with ecstacy. During one of
these excursions in the wilderness, we called at the house
of a lady, whose neighbors were the rude Chippewas,
who, aside from her husband and little daughter, were
her chief society. The notes of a sweet-toned piano
vibrated on the air, amid the green old trees, attuning
our spirits to the harmony. We were regaled with
rich fruit cake, and the purest and coldest water, and left
with the full conviction, that happiness is not the
growth of any particular soil or circumstances.
Within the mansion at "Wildwood" were abundant
sources of amusement and profitable entertainment, and
if a rainy day intervened, a resort to the well-filled
library furnished us all delightful occupation.
Sabbath morning came, and in an unfinished dwelling
an attentive people listened, for the first time in many
weeks, to the earnest words of Life, from the lips of
Rev. Mr. Whitney, who had made one of our company
in coming hither.
Quiet as this rural hamlet seemed, it had but recently
been the theater of tragic scenes and bloodshed. Two
young men, after a dispute of small importance, parted
in anger, and met the following morning, each armed
with a revolver. Several shots passed, when one fell
dead, and the other severely wounded.
187 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
Captain Wilkins,  who  had figured largely in the
Mexican campaign, delegated by authority,'lad come
hither at the same time with ourselves, with an armed
force, in pursnit of a Chippewa who shot a white trader
for refusing him  more whiskey, when  his brain was
already creed by the distilled pestilence. The attempted
arrest was a failure. 
A young lawyer, admitted to the bar at the spring
term of Ramsey county Court, in a fit of delirium tremens,
jumped from a rock eighty feet high, giving it the
name of DRUNKARD'S RocK, into the foaming rapids;
and his body was picked up several days afterwards at
Oseola, six miles below.  May a doating father and fond
mother never know ofhis untimely end!
One man, under the influence of liquor, stabbed himself; and another, who went raving through town, knife
in hand, determined to kill all he met, was secured and
placed in confinement.  At this juncture, the better part
of the community banded together and passed rigid resosolutions for the suppression of the nefarious traffic.
These scenes, except the first, had transpired within the
week previous to our visit; but all was quiet while we
were there.
In the summer of 1848, a Chippewa, infuriated by
whiskey, shot the man  of whom  he obtained it, was
arrested; and in want of other power, was tried by the
citizens, and a deputation was sent to Stillwater, to obtain concurrence in his death sentence. A steamer was
chartered, conveying most of the male citizens to witness
the execution.  There could be no  legal trial;- but it
was a fair and impartial one, and  seemaed the only
alternative. The criminal acknowledged his sentence
just; it was concurred in by his wife and aged father
188 
A VISIT TO THE FALLS OF ST. CROIX.
who witnessed his death; and he employed his last
breath in earnest warning against the intoxicating cup.
The water power at St. Croix Falls is immense, and
the inexhaustable pineries above keep the dozen saws in
active operation; but its improvement has been sadly
retarded by long litigation. The property is in the hands
of a Boston company. Since the boundaries were set to
Wisconsin, the village on the east of the river comes
within its jurisdiction. Little importance is now attached to this, since one, denominated Taylor's Flls, is
hastening to maturity on the Minnesota side.
We reluctantly bade adieu to friends, whose hospitality
we had so much enjoyed, and with our gentlemanly host
and others, embarked in the "Queen of the Lake," a
fine large skiff, for Stillwater, thirty miles distant, where
we arrived in nine hours. The day was delightful-the
ride charming.  A basket of refreshments had been provided; and, with a tin cup, we caught the cold spring
water which came trickling down the rocky banks.
Arrived in Stillwater, a strange scene greeted us. A
rough box stood by the roadside, into which a lifeless
human form, taken from a wagon, was placed, and the
lid being carelessly nailed down, it was replaced in the
wagon and sent off for interment, the chief actors of the
scene returning to the grog shop and gambling saloon.
On inquiry, we learned that the Sabbath previous, two
drunken raftsmen were on the lake in a small boat,
which was overturned, and both were hurried into- eternity; and this was the last of the two just recovered
from the water.  Alas! for the tempter's power!
A recent calamity has brought overwhelming grief to
the hearts of loved ones-sorrow and mourning, and
finally, desertion to "Wildwood Cottage."  The aocom
189. 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
plished wife is a stricken widow. The fair daughters
and promising son are fatherless. In their dwelling,
domestic bliss had "sate a queen and knew no sorrow,"
until its light was suddenly extinguished. Judge Perkins was aiding his workmen at the mill, in the arrangement of some machinery, when his foot slipped, and he
fell into the water, and sunk to rise no more. No timely
aid could reach him, and the following day he was
found, erect, where he went down.
In the dense old forest, tree after tree may fall, and
yet the vacancy be imperceptible; bouquet after bouquet
be gathered from the prairie flowers, and still there seem
none the less. But cut down one of the pleasant shade
trees from around the dwelling-remove the mainstay
of the household,  and  the loss is felt.  One after
another may fall, in the crowded city, and the ranks
be  unthinned.   The  old  country  "burial  ground"
may be full of dead, while the number of the living is
seemingly undiminished.  But in the new and sparsely
populated portions, where prominence is given to each
individual of moral worth, the death of one is felt. There
are none to spare!  "-What THOU  doest we know not
now, put shall know hereafter." " HIow unsearchable are
Thy judgments, and Thy ways past finding out!"
190 
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
ST. ANTHONY'S FALLS.
FROM my earliest recollection, St. Anthony's Falls had
been a theme of wondering admiration to my childhood's fancy. A knowledge of their remote existence
seemed shrouded in mystery; but now I trod the soil
which environed them, and my romantic interest increased rather than diminished.
As I caught the first distant view of the foaming cataract, my entire being was imbued with a new enthusiasm. The very atmosphere seemed to emanate from the
Creator's immediate presence-and the flowers seemed
to have sprung along our pathway, for the gladdening
of angelic spirits, and to breathe the poetry of Heaven.
Silence was more expressive than words. We felt not
the overwhelming awe of Niagara; but calm, delighted,
pleasurable admiration! I was recalled to the fact, that
the spirit was still confined to its earthly tenement, by
measuring with the feet the long space that intervened
between us and the cataraS;.
Thorns and thistles had not defiled the land, for the
white man had not commenced its tillage! No sound
of noisy mill made discord with the music of waters;
but Nature reigned the acknowledged:queen-her loveliness confessed by all.
A small log cabin, built in 1837, by Franklin Steele,
the first claim-cabin between the St. Croix and Mississippi, stood where now, enlarged and improved, it
[191] 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
stands, overlooking the fall, at the most convenient distance. This was our hotel, and here our home being
prepared, tempting viands were spread.  Our table was
an old  bedstead, with rough boards laid across, concealed by our own snowy table cloth. Never was a
meal eaten with sweeter relish than this, my first one at
St. Anthony. It was, too, my first great intellectual
feast in this flowery land. I had quaffed the overflowing bowl pressed to my lips. I had clambered among
the crags, and sat down to reflection upon the rocks,
amid the surging rapids, and then climbed up a perpendicular steep of sixty feet, because I had rushed into a
danger from which this was the only escape. I had been
in the cataract's mist, and delight inexpressible thrilled
my heart. Nor was it all excited by what the eye saw
in the scene before me, but the prospect of the moral
world, and the thought that here I was privileged to
labor, and realize the dreams and yearnings of childhood
were overpowering.
"I had been'- lonely, even from a child,
Though bound with sweet ties to a happy home,
With all life's sacred charities around me;
I had been lonely-for my soul had thirsts
The waters of this world could not assuage.
*       *        *        *        *         *
I had high dreams
And strange imaginations-yea, I lived
Amid my own creations; and a world
Of many hopes and raptures was within me,
Such as I could not tell of; for I knew
Such feelings could not bear a sympathy;
They were too sacred to admit communion,
Too blessed to need it;'to the fields and woods
Did my heart's fullness pour them; solitude
Was the expansion of my secret visions,
192 " 
ST. ANTIIONY'S FALLS.
When I could ask my soul to tell me all;
And many a bright and blissful reverie
Hath cheered my wanderings -I have heard sweet music
In my own thoughts, mysterious harmonies 
Felt, but not understood-vague, happy musings
And shadowy sketches of my future fate,
In bright and glowing colors."
The fall is divided by Hennapin Island, and on the
west side of the island there is much the largest volume
of water, as well as the most imposing view. Spirit Island,
once within, but now below the falls, has connected with
it a legend of woman's wrongs and woes.  The superstitious Dakota sees the spirit of the abused wife, with her
child clinging to her neck, darting in a canoe through
the spray, and "the sound of her death-song is heard
moaning in the winds in the war of the waters." The
story has been graphically portrayed in verse by Rev. S.
W. Pond, formerly a missionary among the Daklotas,
which we copy.   I saw an old canoe wedged in the
rocks and playing amid the waters; and as I abstractedly
gazed, I half imagined it the one in which the deserted
wife seated herself with her beautiful boy, to avenge the
father's neglect, while the wild death-song  was heard
from beneath the boiling flood.
When winter's icy reign is o'er,
And spring has set the waters free,
I love to listen to the roar
Of thy wild waves, Saint Anthony.
For, gathered here from lake and glen,
The turbid waters, deep and black,
With foaming rush and thundering din
Pour down the mighty cataract.
193 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
I love to watch the rapid course
Of the mad surges at my feet,
And listen to the tumult hoarse
That shakes me in my rocky seat.
Entranced with visions strange and new,
The'wild'ring scene amazed I scan,
As with a wild delight I view
Nature unmarred by hand of man.
But go through all this earth so broad,
Go search through mountain, vale, and plainEach spot where human foot has trod
Is linked with memory of pain.
A sight these rugged rocks have seen,
Which scarce a rock unmoved might see;
On the hard hearts of savage men J
That scene was graved indelibly.
And though, since then, long years have fled,
And generations passed away,
Its memory dies not with the dead,
Its record yields not to decay.
No theme of love inspires my song,
' Such as might please a maiden's ear;
I sing of hate, and woe, and wrong,
Of vengeance strange, and wild despair.
Unskilled to sing in polished lays,
I tell no tale of mirth and glee;
A tale of grief in homely phrase
- I tell you, as'twas told to me.
Long ere the white man's eye had seen
These flower-deckled prairies, fair and wide;
Long ere the white man's bark had been
Borne on the Mississippi's tide
19-1. 
ST. ANTHONY'S FALLS.
SD long ago, Dakotas say,
An-pe-tu-sa-pa-win was born;
An Indian maiden, blithe and gay,
Rejoicing in life's rosy morn,
I of her childhood nothing know,
And nothing will presume to tell;
Or of extraction high or low,
Or whether she fared ill or well.
I know she was an Indian maid,
And fared as Indian maidens do;
From morning's light till evening's shlade
Iardship and danger ever knew.
The flowing river she could swim,
She learned the light canoe to guide;
In it could cross the broadest stream,
Or o'er the lake securely glide.
She learned to tan the deer's tough hide,
The parchment tent could well prepare;
,he bison's shaggy skin she dyed,
With art grotesque, in colors fair.
With knife of bone she carved her food,
Fuel with ax of stone procured,
Could fire extract from flint or wood;
To roughest savage life inured.
In kettles frail of birchen bark
She boiled her food with heated stones;
The slippery fish from covert dark
She drew with hook of jointed bones.
The prickly porcupine's sharp quills
In many a quaint device she wove:
Fair gifts for those she highest prized,
Tokens of friendship, or of love.
195 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
Oft on the flower-enameled green,
With troops of youthful maidens gay,
With bounding footsteps was she seen,
Striving to bear the prize away.
The Chippewa she learned to fear,
And round his scalp she danced with glee;
From his keen shaft, or cruel spear,
She oft was fain to hide, or flee.
Thus she, with heart now sad, now gay,
Did many a wild adventure prove;
Till laughing childhood passed away,
Succeeded by the time of love.
Now wedded to the man she loved,
Clasping her firstborn infant boy,
Her swelling heart the fullness proved
Of nuptial and maternal joy.
Thus did her heart with love o'erflow,
And beat with highest joy elate;
But higher joy brings deeper woe,
And love deceived may turn to hate.
:But he wh6se smile as life she prized
Soughtnewer love, and fresher charms;
And she, forsaken and despised,
Beheld him in a rival's arms.
Whate'er she thought, she little said;
No tear bedimmed her flashing eye;
Her faithful tongue no thought betrayed;
Her bosom heaved no tell-tale sigh.
Long had she hid her anguish keen,
When on yon green and sloping shore
The wild Dakotas' tents are seen,
With strange devices painted o'er.
.19d
11 
sT. ANTHONY'S  FAI LS
An-p-tu-a-pa-win was there,
Painting her face with colors gay;
And her loved boy wore in his hair
Feathers, as't were a gala day.
Why braids she her neglected hair,
As though it was her bridal day?
Why has she proudly decked her boy
With shining paint and feathers gay?
See, she has seized her light canoe,
And grasps with haste the slender oar,
Places her baby in the bow,
And thus, in silence, leaves the shore.
With steady hand and tearless eye,
She urges on that frail canoe; 
Right onward to those falls so high  Right onward to the gulf below!
Her frantic friends in vain besought,
She still held on her fearful way;
Nor turned her head, nor heeded aught
Of all that friend or foe might say.
All quake with horror -she alone
Betrays no sign of grief or fear;
With gentle words and soothing tone
She strives the trembling babe to cheer.
The faithless husband trembling stood;
A  father's feelings check his breath;
His son is on that raging flood
So full of life-so near to death.
The quivering bark like lightning flies,
. Urged by the waves and bending oar;
No swifter could she seek the prize,
Were death behind, and life before.
197
4r
tt 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
The fearful brink is just at hand,
And thitherward she holds the bow!
See eager Death exulting stand! I
No power on earth can save her now!
And now she raises her death-song
Above the tumult shrill and clear;
Yet may she not the strains prolong  The fatal verge is all too near!
The song has ceased-the dark abyss
Swallows with haste its willing prey:
The bubbling waters round them hiss:
Mother and child have passed away!
The fragments of a shattered bark
The boiling waves restored to view;
But she and hers in caverns dark
Found rest-though where, none ever knew I
Yet that DEATH-SONG, they say, is heard
Above the gloomy waters' roar,
,When trees are by the night-wind stirred,
And darkness broods o'er wave and shore I
In-haste, and with averted eye,
Benighted travelers pass near;
And when that song of death is heard,
Stout-hearted warriors quake with fear.
100
i.L ", 
CHAPTER XXXIX.
IMPROVEMENTS AT ST. ANTHONY
AT the period when our history of Minnesota commences, Canada was in the hands of the French, who
then displayed far more enterprise in pushing their discoveries and military posts into the wilderness than the
English.  They had indeed formed the design of taking
possession of the whole Mississippi valley, which they
claimed by right of discovery and occupancy. Their
supremacy was not, however of long duration.  In their
subsequent contests with the English they met with a
series of disasters which finally resulted in their relinquishing all claim to that vast territory watered by the
Mississippi and its tributaries.
The small log cabin named in the last chapter was
the first "improvement" at St. Anthony.   Then "the
whole country was a complete wilderness,* inhabited
only by savages, principally Sioux and Chippewas, who
watched with a jealous eye these first encroachments
on their domains. But little did they then dream, that
within fifteen years the'westward  march  of empire'
would extend far beyond the roar of the cataract, and
the'pale face' seize more than thirty millions of acres of
their choice hunting grounds as his lawful prize.'
In 1838 Mr. Steele broke up and cultivated some six
or eight acres in the immediate vicinity of the Falls.
*The reader must not suppose it a forest, but a wilderness in the
sense of being uninhabited by civilized men.
[199] 
FURTIIER DEVELO01 MENTS.
He bought the whole of the present site of the town, at
three several purchases of as many individuals for the
trifling sum of -$a500, including also Boom Island; the
last purchase, however, was not made until 1846.
The land at this time had not been surveyed by gov ernment, and these of course were only "claims."  It is
quite safe to say that in ten years from this time this land
was "entered" at the government price of $1 25, and
now in 1857 the original purchase for $500 could not be
made for as many thousands.
At the time of the government sale of lands at this
point in 1848 there were but four houses, and in one of
these was the store of R. P. Russel, esq., who established
himself in mercantile business the same  year.  Great
difficulties were encountered and overcome in the outset
of these enterprises here, and various misfortunes befel
the infant settlement.  Many articles which could only
be procured in the-East were lost before reaching their
destination: working utensils could hardly be procured
at any price: provisions were scarce and of course very
high: female help it was impossible to obtain, and men
were employed to perform the duties of cook and
laundress.
In September 1848, two saws commenced running,
and two more the following year. From the year 1849
we may date the real commencement of the growth of St.
Anthony.  Several prominent and valuable citizens settled here, and the same year the " St. Charles" was built
by Anson NorthuLp.  In this year also Mr. Steele sold
one undivided half of his interest in the property of St.
Anthony to Mr. A. W. Taylor of    Boston, for $20,000;
and in 1852 Mr. Taylor sold back his interest for the sum
of $25,000, when Mr. Steele sold again one half of his
200 
IMIPROVEMENTS AT ST. ANTHONY.
interest to Messrs. Davis, Sanford and Gibhard of New
York city. An eighth of what remained was sold to
Messrs. Chute and Prince, the former of the two being
the resident partner and managing the entire concern.
St. Anthony ranks the second city in the territory, and
has many great advantages over other points. Its water
power is immense, and the -improvement of that power
is astonishing.  The magical developments of Yankee
enterprise, in this Wonder working country, are strikingly
visible in this thriving young town. The citizens are
characterized- for intelligence, industry and enterprise,
and their indomitable perseverance to prove themselves
to be at the "head of navigation."  Boats have been
chartered by them at an enormous expense to test the
fact, and have in several instances reached the town in
high water.  It is, however, with reluctance and much
risk that the trip is undertaken, though St. Anthony,
averse to yield, is experimenting still, dredging the stream,
removing boulders, &c.
St. Anthony must ever be a place of importance; the
lovely scenery and fertile country surrounding it, with its
facilities for trade, giving it every advantage.  No one
can look upon it but with convictions of its future prosperity.  Here the industrious farmer, the enterprising
mechanic, the shrewd merchant and the intelligent professional man, find ample scope for effort, and a rich
reward for their toil.
More decided action in favor of temperance has been
taken by the citizens of St. Anthony than in any other
town in the Territory.  The conditions of sale-of the first
town lots were that no drinking or liquor establishment
should be erected thereon for two years from sale, and
thus the infant town was saved from the blighting
9*
201 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
demoralizing influence of earth's greatest curse. But the
enemy has since crept inl and "sown tares."
Hiere is also the seat of Minnesota University, a territorial institution, located by an act of the. Legislature in
1851, within a plot of twenty acres of land, delightfully
situated in view of the falls, yet sufficiently removed
from the din of business.  Two townships of land, donated by Congress, constitute a fund for the endowment of
the University.  This tract embraces some of the finest
lands in the Territory, and is equivalent to forty-six thous
and and eighty acres.
Two steamers, the Gov. Ramsey and the II. M. Rice,
have been built here to ply above the Falls, at an outlay
of twenty thousand dollars. The Suspension Bridge, built
at an expense of seventy thousand dollars, has proved a
profitable investment, the first annual dividend of tolls
being twelve thousand five hundred dollars, equal to fifty
dollars per day.
"No one can examine the river at this point," says the
St. Anthony Express, "without being struclc- with the
admirable facilities here afforded for bridging the Mississippi for railroads. The facilities, aside from this, are
unsurpassed. Stone of excellent quality is at hand in
abundance. IHere, too, are all the facilities for procuring
the requisite supplies of lumber. The banks seem as
if formed by nature for this express purpose." Nor is
the day far distant when St. Paul, St. Anthony and the
whole calendar of Saints will have a direct railroad connection with the great Atlantic Cities.
Already the work of a century seems to have been
accomplished as by a magician's wand.   What would
have been the emotions of HIennapin and Carver, when
standing upon this soil'where alone the " Indian lover
202 
IMPROVEMENTS AT ST. ANTITHONY.
wooed his dusky maid," could they have seen in prophetic glass what now the natural eye beholds!  And
yet to the eye of Nature's votaries art but detracts from
its charms.   How oft a sacred awe has stolen upon'me
in viewing these glorious displays of Almighty power!
The world is full of beauty! Winter and Summer
have their charms!  There are times when the soul is
thrilled as with seraphic harmonies, inspiring a love for
HIM who created all these glorious objects.
A view of the falls from the west shore is the most
desirable.  And here a town has sprung up in three years
that rivals many at the East of half a century's growth.
In 1849 there was but one family residing on this shore.
A thrilling adventure of a young lady in this family has
entitled her at least to the character of a heroine, and to
notice in our book.
Miss Bean had come to the river on her way to school,
and the boatman being absent she determined to "paddle
her own canoe." She'managed the oars dexterously for
a time and arrived at the middle of the stream, when the
rapid channel hastened her onward to the Falls. A rope
had been extended across the river to provide for such an
emergency, and was now about three feet above water.
As the skiff passed underneath she caught and firmly
clung to this rope, and here she remained swayed by the
current for half an hour, when she was rescued from her
perilous situation by her father.
In company with a friend I encountered similar and
even greater peril, as there was no rope which might
render us aid. In haste to cross, our call for the boatman
from the other shore met no response. My friend
objected to my proposition to try our own skill in rowing, he being a novia'e in the business; but his gallantry
203 
FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS.
forbade obstinacy, and when he saw me seated in a canoe,
paddle in hand, he took a reluctant seat, thinking probably, he'd not let me drown alone. We pushed from shore
making the absurdity of our circumstances a theme of
merriment. My back was towards the shore and I had
begun to feel that we were making fine headway, when
my attention was directed to the starting point. Surely,
we were under headway, unless providentially arrested, to
inevitable death! With dexterous hand each plied the
paddle, and with all the energy arising from the conviction that our life depended upon it; each, however, in the
excitement, counteracting the efforts of the other. By
accident my paddle in a deep dip struck bottom, and we were
saved! by a providence which our own coolness would
not have devised.  We very wisely concluded that rowing
a skiff on Lake Champlain was quite another affair from
paddling a canoe on. the rapid - Mississippi; especially in
proximity with its foaming cataract; and that henceforth
we had better leave the paddle to those who understand
its use.
204 
CHtAPTER XL.
MINNEAPOLIS.
MINNEAPOLIS, the name of the town alluded to in the
last chapter, as having sprung up mushroom-like on the
west of the falls, is compounded from the Sioux and
Greek language.  "Minne," the Sioux term for water, and
"polis," the Greek for city; hence, the "city of waters,"
or Minneapolis.  It is finely located, the bank of the river
above the falls rising from five to twenty-five feet, and
extending back in a beautifully rolling plateau.
The old Government mill of ancient date, and the millhouse, were the first and only buildings here until 1850.
AMy valued friend, Col. John IH. Stephens, has a just claim
to be considered "the first settler."  Having served in
the Mexican war with distinction, acting a conspicuous
part in several battles, under command of Gen. Scott,
when his services were no longer required on the tented
field he sought the "Elysian fields" of Minnesota.  For
the sharer of his joys and the divider of his sorrows, he
chose an intelligent and accomplished wife from  the
Empire State, and built his rural cottage on the West
bank of St. Anthony's Falls. The floral adornments of his
ground soon betokened the taste and refinement, the quiet
and domestic bliss which dwelt within doors. In a lecture
before the Minneapolis'Lyceum, in speaking of his first
arrival here, Col. Stephens says:
"In the month of April, 1849, a colony of some ten
persons might have been seen wending their way from
[2051 
MINNEAPOLIS.
St. Paul, looking for a settlement-a permanent home.
In that colony were a Doctor, just entering manhood,
who has since arrived at the highest pinnacle of distinction in his profession, and a- school-master; the rest were
farmers. Leaving St. Paul, with no favorable impressions
of the territory, we were divided in opinion which part
of the country to examine. DIrecting our attention to
Fort Snelling, we, for the first time, found that the land
west of the Mississippi was not opened to settlers; hence
we left the fort and pursued our way to the Falls of St.
Anthony, in order to get back again on to Government
lands. As we journeyed from the fort the character of
the country was beautiful beyond description.  Not a
solitary house, except the old mill property, was to be
seen; an unbroken wilderness surrounded the site of
Minneapolis. We saw a number of wolves start from
their lair; and eagles, even, seemed disposed to dispute
our right to visit the crags below the falls.
"The smoke from the chimneys of only two houses
could be seen from St. Anthony. They stood solitary
and alone.  Money could hardly buy a meal; pork and
beans and coffee were all that we expected, if indeed we
were thus favored.
"Little did I then think that St. A_nthony would in
1855 contain a population of three thousand, and Minneapolis one thousand. At that time there was not a newspaper in the territory, although the Pioneer was brought
into life by the late lamented Goodhue the same month.
There was not a church and the whole Territory only
contained one school-house.* When I speak of a church,
I mean a Protestant church. These remarks are neces
* In this the Colonel mistakes; besides the one at St. Paul, to
which he alludes, there was one at Stillwater.
206 
MINNEAPOLIS.
sary, for my intention is not only to show the rapidity of
the growth of the territory, but of Minneapolis.
"We go back again to the colony I was connected with.
It might perhaps be well to say, that J. P. Miller, formerly
of lower Minneapolis, and myself, are all of them that
remain in the territory. There were no sick-the doctor
left in disgust; we had no children, and the school-master
went to another part. The farmers of the company did
not like the east side of the river, and being adventurers
like myself, they all went to California. Two of us determinined to remain, and I pitched my tent on the west
side of the Falls of St. Anthony, there to live, perhaps to
die.  We  struggled long for a permit to occupy the reserve, and that object was in time accomplished. My
present dwelling was erected in the winter of 1849-50,
being the first house built in linneapolis by a private C?,tizen.  As soon as the house was completed I moved into
it, and for the first yearour only neighbors, (with the exception of the family of C. A. Tuttle, esq., who left his
home on the east side of the river in a few months after
our residence in our present home,) were the Indians.
We have often retired at night and opened our eyes in
the morning upon the wiglwams of either-the Sioux,
Chippewas, or Winnebagoes, which had gone up while
we slept.
"My oldest little girl is the first white child born in
Minneapolis, and her age is only four years.'Little
Willie Tuttle,' the only son of my ancient neighbors, is
the second child born here. My family and Mr. Tuttle's
had remained alone for some time, when Mr. Miller was
fortunate enough to get a permit."
Another and another followed until they numbered nine
families, when, says Colonel Stephens, "We now thought
207 
MINNEAPOLIS
ourselves representing quite a city, the nearest distance
between our residences being half a mile. We had good
times-peace and harmony reigned in our midst. Occasionally the Rev. G. H. Pond, who is one of the very best
men in our territory, would give us a sermon.  On such
occasions we all gathered into my house and listened to
his useful and instructive teachings.
"Thus we remained for some two years, when others
obtained permits and our village started schools.  One
of the first objects of the early settlers was accomplished
in securing the services of Rev. J. C. Whitney, who was
the first settled pastor in Minneapolis. The Rev. C. G.
Ames, the worthy and excellent pastor of the Freewill
Baptist Church, was the second minister of the Gospel
that settled with us.  Then followed Rev. A. A. Russel,
of the Baptist Home Mission Society. They could not
have made a better selection, for he is truly'the salt of
the earth.'
"One of our early and most perplexing difficulties, was
the selection of a name for our embryo city.  Col. James
M. Goodhue thought'All Saints' to be a good name.
Mliss Mary A. Scofield wrote many letters for publication
east, and she always wrote from'All Saints.'  At our
first claim meeting in 1851,'Lowell' was adopted. At an
accidental meeting in November of that year, the whole
of Minneapolis was present, and we hit upon'Albion.'
This name the citizens soon got tired of, and at last, as a
compromise, it was left to George D. Bowman, editor of the
St. Anthony Express. HIe selected'Minneapolis,' which
met some opposition at first, but Mr. Bowman would
come out every week with an article on'Minneapolis;'
and all finally swallowed it. It is allowed on all hands
to be a beautiful combination of the native Sioux and
classic Greek.
208 
MINNEAPOLIS.
"One year ago the village had only twelve houses;
now you can count over a hundred, some of which woul(l
do credit, both in structure and durability, to the city ri
New York.
"Hennapin County, of which Minneapolis is the shlire
town, is bounded by the Mississippi on the east, the Minnesota on the south, Crow River on the north, with tlhe
beautiful Minnetonka in the center, all navigable for
steamboats; together with rich prairies and fertile woodlands, copious small pebbly lakes, filled with fish, besides
brooks and gushing springs ill abundance, and all
conspire to make it, at large, a favorite location for the
immigrant, who is in search of a home in the great northwest.  The highest hopes may be here realized.  Bilious
attacks are seldom known; consumption is rare;'fever
and ague are banished from our midst. All the facilities
necessary for a poor, worthy and industrious man, either
with or without a family, can be found here. More than
twenty school districts have been established in the
county, and the spires of different churches can be seen
pointing towards Hleaven. Every part of Hennapin appears to be combined to help agriculturists.
"Minneapolis and Milwaukee brick are known in the
West, and are hard to beat.
"We have but one doctor. He has little to do, and is
certainly worthy of patronage would he go to, other countries, but not here. I refer to Dr. A. E. Ames, whose
familiar face is known to all as a citizen and an upright
man, but not as a doctor.  Few ever require his services."
The first death which occurred in this town was an
infant child of Mr. Bean, in 1850; the second was Mrs.
Case, in 1853. She was the first woman who went theland route to California, and with no femal associate.
209 
MINNEAPOLIS.
She was a young bride, buoyant in hopes and spirits, andcl
relished every hour, as she said, of the long and untrod
path. After spending two or three years in the land of
gold, she and her husband returned rich in its avails, and
with a cabinet of rich and rare specimens gathered there
and on the route.  No spot presented so delightful a location to their minds as their beautiful claim on the western
border of Minneapolis, where, in their snowy dwelling,
amid the adornments of taste and comfort, life's golden
days sped on.  But the "pale horse and his rider" came
with a. summons, which could not be unheeded. The
young wife was removed to her last earthly abode-the
narrow charnel-house. Thus, the fairest and brightest of
earth's prospects fade away.
The editor of the Saint Anthony Express says:  "It
may not be amiss here to state, that Minneapolis is located
on what was formerly the Military Reserve of Fort Snelling-a reservation of nine miles square around the fort
for the purpose of forage. By an act of Congress passed
in 1852, the reserve was, for the most part, thrown open
to actual settlers, and the following year began to be
rapidly settled.  Probably the first building erected in
Minneapolis (he should have said west of the river), is
the old stone mill built by Government,-for the purpose
of grinding grain for the use of the fort, and which is
still standing. A saw-rnmill was also erected by Government near the same place; but this, we believe, has been
almost, if not entirely, rebuilt within two or three years.
"It was in this old mill that the first United States
District Court for the Territory of Minnesota, west of the
Mississippi, was held by Judge Meeker.
"A ferry was maintained for several years across the
Mississippi, opposite Col. Stephens's, for the use of the
210 
MINNEAPOII[S.
fort. This has been superseded by the elegant wire suspension bridge.
"On the 5th of March, 1855, an act of Congress was
passed, granting the right of preemption to settlers on the
reserve. The title to the lands had previously rested in
Government. As soon as the proper arrangements could
be made at the Land Office, settlers commenced proving
up; and soon all entitled to preempt had obtained their
titles, the same being true of nearly all the reserve within
two miles of the city of St. Paul.  For the passage of this
act the people are much indebted to the faithful,.persevering and efficient labors of Hion. H. M. Rice, their delegate
to Congress. Thus was happily ended a difficulty, and
a source of most harassing anxiety and suspense to
hundreds of settlers, who had been trembling lest their
beautiful, hard-earned homesteads should fall into the
hands of the relentless speculator.
211 
CHAPTER XLI.
THE WEST.
"THE WEST," says an eastern writer, who, in the summer of 1855, traveled through the Mississippi Valley,
"where is it?  In New England we talk of the WVest
of its beauties and deformities, and of removing thither;
but seldom define its locality.  In New York, Michigan,
Illinois, and Wisconsin, they talk of the West and its
future promise, and of the advantages of going thither
to become identified with its high hopes and future greatness. Still, our ideas of the real genuine grandeur and
future prospects of the West (the valley drained by the
Mississippi and its tributaries), are exceedingly limite(ld,
until we traverse some of its prairies, wander among the
magnificent timber there growing, falling and wasting as
though no part of the family of man would be glad of a
winter's supply therefrom; or take a trip of a few hundred miles on board of some one of the great number of
steamers plying on the rivers, freighted to their utmost
capacity with people from every state of the Union and
nation of Europe-all going west!  Sit upon the deck,
and gaze for hours on the high and overhanging rock4
and unsurpassed scenery; visit the cities of the West,
that have been planted, laid out, and huilt, within the
memory of nearly every inhabitant thereof who has seen
half a score of winters; ride a day on their railways;
and then the absolute greatness of the West will begin
to be realized. Colleges are being built, and richly ern         [212]
.t" 
.TItIE WVEST.
dowed. The common school-house is often seen, to re mind the New England wanderer that he is still with
those that have, in other days,.been inmates of eastern
homes.  New churches of rich architectural beauty already rest on the soil of the West; and, indeed, all you
there behold serves only to make you love it more, and
long to say' It is my home.'
"It is hard to select a home in the West; there is so
much in every state to attract the emigrant.  Wisconsin
alone has the resources of an empire.  The people are
enterprising, and are fast developing the resources of the
state.
"Minnesota, too, with rapid strides, is developing herself, and will soon knock at headquarters, demanding her
freedom suit, and to be; ushered into the constellation of
states; and before her representatives shall have been
long enough at the national capitol to form the acquaintance of all their brethren, will be head and shoulders
above some of her older sisters. Indeed, Minnesota is
far-famed, but no more so than fair-valed. Perhaps no
lovelier scene was ever presented to the gaze of mortals
than may be seen in going from St. Paul to St. Anthony.
As the traveler approaches St. Anthony, looking forward
and a little to the left, his eye rests upon the promising
village of Minneapolis, and its back grounds. It is one
of nature's best efforts to make a beautiful landscape,
and the effort was crowned with complete success.
"Many have asked me, since my return, what part of
the West is best for a home. This depends much upon
what the person going thither requires. For New England people, I think Wisconsin  and Minnesota best
adapted.  There is less ague than further south, and the
climate is more like the East. Minnesota, with a clear
lb
213 
THE WEST.
bracing atmosphere, with cold but uniform winters, cannot fail to be attractive, and the western parts of Wisconsin none the less so. The soil is rich ewough in almnost
any part of the West. Wisconsin, in some respects, is
already the first state in the Union.   With its inexhaustible resources it is making rapid strides to wealth
and influence.  At the present time it is ahead of Minne
sota; but wait ten years, and possibly, perhaps probably,
I shall be constrained to give a different opinion."
Such is the disinterested testimony  of one whose
knowledge of the extent of the beauties and resources of
Minnesota was comparatively limited.   What shall be
said, then, of those whose eyes are daily opening on its
new and rare excellences, and( who regard with astonishment its newly-discovered beauties! We do say, without fear of contradiction, that the natural scenery of
Minnesota is unsurpassed in loveliness by any other on
the globe; and in this we have the concurring testimony
of several who have visited every quarter of the world,
and nearly every island of the sea.
A bird's-eye view, such as we get from the high bluffs
of the Upper Mississippi, of broad, undulating prairies,
carpeted with green, and richly set with flowers of purple,
crimson, and scarlet; woodlands and lakes intermingling,
and the streamlet gliding
" Like a line of silver,'mid a fringe of green,"
enwraps the soul in enchantment, and we cannot imagine
the loveliness of Eden to have been more perfect.
Strolls and drives amid scenery like the above, have
made indelibly their impressions upon my mind.  My
soul oft wanders in blissful dreams, and reposes upon
214 
THE WEST.
some-green isle of the crystal lakes, where myriads of
shining water-fowls are gracefully sporting, and the finny
tribe leap from their transparent element, to impart life
and gladness to the scene; and the tiny wild flower lifts
her head with her own sweet smile, to kiss the island
sprite as it passes by!  All these scenes of loveliness
are fronted by the towering grandeur which skirts the
mighty river. The Mississippi is sublimity itself. It is
the central thoroughfare of our mighty nation-bearing
on its bosom hundreds of richly-freighted steamers,
traversing in its windings a distance of more than four
thousand miles; and by its tributaries having access to
more than half the states in the great confederacy. But
here, its mountain shores give a peculiar character to
that sublimity; the towering rocky summits requiring
little play of the imagination to form them into the remnains of ancient castles and ruins of monuments and
towers. And its bluffs, from one to six hundred feet in
height, have a more grand, extended, and picturesque
scenery than is to be found on any other river in the
world, stretching back into beautiful table lands.  The
trees on their slopes present to the traveler the singular
appearance of an orchard in an old settled country, and
prompt a desire to start in quest of fruit; but the absence
of human habitations dispels the illusion.
It is a singular fact that the bed of the river is here
free from rocks and snags, notwithstanding the boldness
of its rocky, wooded shores; the only obstruction to nlavigation being sand-bars, which in low water cause slight
detention.
An occasional trading-house, and a few "spaper towns,';
staked upon the river bank, denoted by a claimant's
cabin and log-warehouse, were the only evidences oi
215 
THE WVEST.
civilization above the old Frencli town of Prairie du
Chien, on my first ascent of the river in 1847. The
Winnebagoes and Sioux were the principal patrons of
these trading houses, where they disposed of their annuity money for trinkets, blankets, and whiskey. But
Yankee enterprise has been at work, as may be seen in
the fair young towns of La Crosse in Wisconsin, Lansing
in Iowa, Winona, Red Wing, and Hastings in Minnesota,
and innumerable others of less note.
216 
CHAPTER XLII.
MIAIDEN'S ROCK.
As we have intimated, nothing in nature can be more
magnificent than the scenery of the Upper Mississippi.
To see and not admire, to contemplate and not love, one
must be deaf to the voice of nature, and callous to the
finer feelings of the soul! HIow oft, in the few years
gone by, have I gazed enraptured from those lofty banks
or from the "guards " of a steamer, upon the waters of
the swiftly-coursing stream, wherein the fairy moonbeams
danced; the towering shores, or graceful elm of the
bottom lands," mirrored therein, while the sound of the
Frenchmen's oars, the boisterous shout of the uncouth
raftsmen, the mournful dirge of the forest child, clhanting
her sorrow at the grave of the departed, and unuttered
music, sweeter than the Eolian harp, were wafted upon
the breeze!
The lovers of natural scenery are seized with an almost
irrepressible desire to enjoy the extended view from the
summit of these bltuffs; and whenever the boat stops "to
wood," they are to be seen toiling up the height, where,
ravished by the sight, they remain until the bell summons to a hurried descent. On an occasion like this, by
frequent pausing for breath, my feet had attained the
acme of my desires. In the foreground, like a speck on
the water, lay the "Dr. Franklin," her busy men appearing of Lilliputian stature; near by was the cabin of the
woodman, his half-breed wife, and tawny, untutored chil.
10                                  [217] 
MAIDENS ROCK.
dren at the door; beyond was the extended plain, the
densely-timbered "bottom land," with silvery lakes reflecting the sky, and small streams winding around until
they reached the large one at our feet. "Why, 0 why,"
I exclaimed," such a rare profusion of beauty, where there
is no eye to enjoy, no heart to relish it?"  My traveling
companion had passed months in the wilderness, had
roamed where the foot of no other white man had trod,
had made his bed of the bear skin in the Indian's wigwam, or on the cold earth, with heaven's canopy for a
covering, and the stars keeping faithful vigils over him.
"And there," he replied, "have I seen such glorious displays of the beautiful, that I could not divest my soul of
thie belief that unseen spirits were enjoying what no mortal
eye had seen!"  This was to me a new and beautiful
idea (let it be understood that this was some two or three
years before spirit-rappings had begun  to craze the
world). Perhaps the spirits of our departed friends are
silently gazing upon the enrapturing scene! I wvill cherish the idea; or, rather, that the wise Creator has evinced
his matchless taste and skill for his own glory, and to
furnish theme for the admiration of those whom he hath
"given to his Son," and who are now "heirs of an inheritance that fadeth not away."
Lake Pepin, one hundred miles below the falls, is an
expansion of the Mississippi, thirty miles long, and from
two to five miles wide. Its rendering, literally, is " Lake
of Tears." The first voyagers who made the explorations
of this lake, were accompanied by a flotilla of canoes of
the Sioux Indians, some of whom were disposed to destroy their companions in charge. These cried all night
over those who opposed them, hoping thereby to gain
their consent. Hence Lake of Tears, or Lake Pepin.
218 
MAIAIDFEIN'S ROCK.
"Malden Rock," or "Lover's Leap," about midway
on this lake, an object of interest to all travelers, is about
five hundred feet high. Connected with it is a sad legend,
a tale of the heart, which lives in Indian story. Winona
was the pride and joy of her chieftain father, who in his
fondness had pledged her to a favorite brave of his band.
She loved another, and promised to be his, or die.  The
father was incorrigible! No more her laugh rang in the
joyous sport; no more she sang in strains of native melody; no more her elastic feet out-stripped her companions
in the race; no more she braids her hair beside the mirroring water: but all night long her soul chimed with
the mournful notes of the whippoorwill, as she gazed
upon the pale star ere it sank to rest. The cruel father
had placed the cankerworm at the heart of his dearest
idol, as thousands in civilized lands have done, with less
excuse.
Winona, goaded to the quick, at last feigns a compliaiance with her father's importunities. Seeking an interview
with her heart's chosen one, mutual vows of constancy
were renewed; and with affected indifference she watched
her father's arrangements for her nuptials with the object
of her supreme aversion. With assumed cheerfulness,
she wandered forth with her dark-browedcl companions
for the delicious berry to grace the feast. They knew
not the bitterness of her crushed heart, nor the determined
spirit with which her sorrows were disguised.  She wandered a little way from her attendants, who knew it not
until a wild death note struck their ear.  As they moved
toward her she waved them back, and, as if awe-struck,
they obeyed, while with the fleetness of a fawn she bounds
towards the forbidding precipice. Wild flowers and
feathers of gayest plumage adorn her raven hair, and a
219 
MAIDEN'S ROCK.
snow white blanket enwraps her queenly formn.  One
moment she pauses, upon the brink raises her arms, as
if in supplication to the Great Spirit, and the next she is
lying motionless in the depth below. The forest sends
forth a wail of sorrow, and the obdurate, but relenting
father, grieves for the loss of his darling, and survives
her but a few weeks. The faithful lover plants flowers
by her untimely grave, and till the midnight hour watches
the moonbeams play thereon.  He fancies the zephyr's
voice her spirit whispers, and longs to go to the Spirit
Land. He wanders, he knows not and cares not whither;
cold and hungry, he seeks shelter and food in a wigwam,
unlike any he had seen before, far away on the shores of
the Great Lakle. There the missionary is teaching his
red brethren the story of the Cross. He listens and believes, and in simplicity and sincerity of heart, exclaims,
" Lord, take poor Indian just as he is, poor and suffering,
heart-sick and wicked, and make my heart happy."
The abode of the missionary was joyful with the praise
of a new born soul, and the " poor Indian" went forth to
tell the wonderful story of Calvary to others of his tribe.
220 
CHAPTER XLIII.
UPPER MISSISSIPPI SCENERY.
THE most striking features of the Upper Mississippi
are the boldness of its shores and the beauty of its island
scenery, mirrored on its unruffled bosom. A gifted writer
in Putnam's Monthly-one of the two thousand five hundred excursionists to the Falls of St. Anthony, in June.
1854, in commemoration of the union by rail of the Atlantic and Mississippi, says:
"The celebrated bluffs, which continue in ever varying
forms, for some hundreds of miles; do not resemble the
romantic highlands of our Hudson; they bear small resemblance to the cliffs on the Rhine, and yet they remind
one of the Rhine more than the Hudson. They are
unique-they have no likeness-they daguerreotype new
pictures on the mind; they call forth new sensations.
Their images cannot be conveyed by description, they
must be seen; and now that the chain of railroads is
completed to the Mississippi, the fashionable tour will be
in the track of our happy' excursion party, to the Falls
of St. Anthony.' The foreign traveler must go there,
and the song of the bridegroom to many a' Lizzie Lee'
will be,' Ho! for the Falls of St. Anthony!'
"There is a curious diversity in the form of the bluffs
Some have monotonous, heavy outlines, like the horizon
line, to which an eastern eye is accustomed; others run
up to a sharp point, like the'Aiguilles' of the Alps;
and some stand apart, regular cones; but all are covered
with rich prairie turf, gentle declivities, or sharp precipi
[?21] 
UPPER MISSISSIPPI SCENERY.
ces; and the long grass, absolutely shining with the verdure of June, and brilliantly embroidered with flowers,
waves over them.  The bluffs at some points make the
shore of the river, then they recede, leaving a broad foreground of level prairie. They are planted quite to their
summits, with oaks mainly, and trees of other species, as
Downing, with his study of nature and love of art, might
have planted them: now in long serpentine walks and
now in copses, and then so as to cover, with regular intervening clear spaces, the whole front of the declivity,
producing the effect of a gigantic orchard. Midway up
the bluffs you sometimes see a belt of rocks, reminding
one of the fragments of walls on the Rhine; but still
above and below it, the same bright green turf.'If we
were to put it in there, and statue it down,' said a practical observer from our rocky New England,' it wouldn't
stay!' But the surpassingly beautiful marvels of all, are
the mimic castles, or rather foundations of ruined castles,
that surmount the pinnacles. These mere rocks of lime
and sandstone so mock and haunt you with their resem
blance to the feudal fortresses of the Old World, that you
unconsciously wonder what has become of the Titan race
that built them; and go on wondering, where are the
people that planted these magnificent terraces; where the
lordly race that has so kept in garden beauty, free from
brush and brake, these'grounds,' stretching in evervarying loveliness for hundreds of miles, and tempting
you to apply the magnificent insolence of a celebrated
phrase, and call the vaunted parks of England a'mere
patch' in comparison. But no! no human hand has
planted them —nlo human imagination embellished themno human industry dressed and kept them.  They have
the fresh impress of the Creator's hand:
222 
UPPER MISSISSIPPI SCENERY.
"' His love, a smile of Heaven impressed
In beauty on their ample breast.'
"We  glided along past this enchanting scenery, for
four days and nights of our blessed week, amidst sunshine,
moonlight and clouds, each variation of the atmosphere
serving to add a new charm or reveal a new beauty. Our
light boats skimmed the surface of the water like birds;
and with the ease and grace of birds they dipped down
to the shore and took up their food, their fiery throats
devouring it with marvelous rapidity.
"No racing was permitted. The sailing was so ordered,
that what we saw by the exciting moonlight going up,
was resplendent, in the full light of day, coming down;
and, for it seemed as if the clouds cooperated with the
benignant commodore, that what was draped and softened
by mist, in our ascension, was unveiled and defined in our
descent.  The boats, at-the approach of evening, were
lashed together, to allow an extension of social intercourse,
and visits were interchanged, and the general voice was
of satisfaction and enjoyments without number. The
lights of four paralleled boats streamed, with charming
effect, upon the shores of Lake Pepin, where the river,
unbroken by islands, is five miles wide.
"Ah! you should have seen that beautiful tower of
St. Paul, sitting on its fresh hill-side, like a young queen
just emerging from her minority. You should have seen
the gay scrambling at our landing there, for carriages and
wagons, and every species of locomotive, to take us to our
terminus at St. Anthony's Falls. You should have seen
how, disdaining luxury or superfluity, we-some among us
accustomed to cushioned coaches at home-could drive
merrily over -the prairie in lumber wagons, seated on rough
boards.  You should have seen the troops and groups
223 
UPPER MISSISSIPPI SCENERY.
scattered over St. Anthony's Rocks, (what a picturesque
domain the saint possesses!) and you should have witnessed the ceremony performed with dignity by Colonel
Johnson, of mingling the water taken from the Atlantic at
Sandy Hook one weels before, with the waters of the Mississippi; and there and then have remembered, that but
three hundred years' ago, De Soto, after three months of
wandering in trackless forests, was the first European discoverer of this river.  What startling facts!  What confounding contrasts!"
And the writer, too, should have remembered, that
within the memory of the veriest child, all the "improvements " which surrounded her there, had been made; and
had she known, she perhaps would have added, that but
seventeen years before Franklin Steele built the first
cabin there and made the first advances towards the settlement of the territory, as we have before stated.
The "excursion party" was anticipated, and the generous citizens of St. Paul had made ample arrangement
for their reception, and chartered all the carriages of the
livery stables to take them to the falls. But a day sooner
than expected the fleet of steamers rounded the point and
received a salute of welcome from the shore. Much to
the regret of all, the majority of the best carriages were
out of town, hence the necessity of resorting "to every
species of locomotive." It was a day, however, replete
with interest and long to be remembered by Minnesotians,
and doubtless by all who partook in the rare enjoyment
of the excursion.
The writer goes on to say: "In returning from St.
Anthony to St. Paul, we all left our vehicles to follow
the wheel-plow, as drawn by six noble yoke of oxen;
it cleared the tough turf, and upheaved it for the first
224 
UPPER MISSISSIPPI SCENERY.
time, for the snll and hand of man to do their joint fructifying work upon it.  The oxen (not the men) looked
like the natural lords of the soil.  It was the sublime of
plowing. When will our poets write their bucolics?
"Our next sight, and hard by the plowing, was one of
nature's perfect works-the falls of a creek, poetically
called by the Indians,'Minnehaha'-Iaughing waters.
Miss Bremer says they deserve their picture, son g, and tales.
So perfect is this fall in color, in form so graceful, so finished,
that by some mysterious accident of association, it brought
to my mind at once, the Yenus de Medici. The lastincident
of this day's most pleasant circuit, was an unlooked-for
visit at the old border fortress of Fort Snelling.  We were
received with great kindness; courtesy and gallantry are
twin virtues in military life.
"The inhabitants of St. Paul, with the unstinted western
hospitality that had everywhere awaited us, gave a ball in
the evening to the thousand excursionists. Unhappily,long prefatory speeches, and the punctual departure of
tie boats at 11 P. M., cut short the hilarity."
10*
225 
CHAPTER XLIV.
NEW TOWNS ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
ON Wabashaw Prairie, in the summer of 1848, were
assembled the feeble remnant of the once powerful Winnebagoes, preparatory to their final departure from the
beautiful lands in Northern Iowa and Southern Minnesota, which they had ceded to the United States. The
treaty had been conducted by a few chiefs, and many of
the "common people" evinced their attachment to home
and native scenes by an obstinate refusal to leave. To
the judicious management of H. M. Rice, who was delegated by Government for their removal, we are indebted
for an amicable reconciliation and their tacit consent to
abide by the treaty.
Difficulties having subsided, a steamer, chartered for
the purpose, weekly and semi-weekly, discharged its
living freight in St. Paul, amouinting to from two to four
hundred, each trip.  These lawlessly pitched their " teepees" wherever it best suited their convenience, to the
no small annoyance of the few citizens, before taking up
their line of march to their new homes at the North.
On Wabashaw Prairie, in 1856, like a young Miss
just blushing into her "teens," stands the fair young
town of Winona; PROGRESS is "written upon the very
bells of the horses," and ENERGY upon the brow of
every citizen.
In the month of June, 1852, there wvas but one habitable house on the prairie; and a visitor there, at that
[226]
0 
NEW  TOWNS ON TIIE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.    227
time, says, "I was obliged to occupy, as a lodging place,
the floor of a shanty, which was the only part of a building then completed, save its two sides. Ends and roof
were minus." IHowv great the change! Stores and shops,
warehouses and  offices, schools  and  churches,  commodious residences, elegantly furnished; and men and
women of intelligence are here, who firmly believe that
their town is destined to 8urpass all others in the territory,
not even excepting the capital.
Winona must be one of the largest towns below St.
Paul.  It is admirably adapted by Nature for this purpose.  The prairie is some ten miles in length, and three
in width, and so level, as not to require the grading of a
single street, and the country in the rear, like that "backing"  all other towns,  "is unsurpassed in agr-icultural
facilities." 
On the authority of its "oldest inhabitant," one thousand acres have beenlaid off in town lots, making between three and four thousand lots. At first they were
donated, to a limited extent, to those who would build
upon them.  After the erection of a few houses, lots began to sell at from $10 to $150. Farmers, by thousands,
came in to the back country-tradesmen, mechanics, and
artizans of all kinds came into town, in such numbers,
that ninety houses had been built in as many days, and
still the cry, "more room I"
Town property went up rapidly.  Lots that found no
purchasers at $150, sold, one year later, for $2,000, and
an acre of land offered for $50, rose in that time to $900.
Men of money and experience have been added to the
population, and new projects of improvement engross the
public mind.
Iastings, three miles above the- mouth of the  St. 
228    NEW TOWVNS ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
Croix, on the opposite side of the Mississippi, had no
existence as a town until 1853.  The rush of immigration to this point has known no parallel out of our young
territory. Property has gone up here with a rapidity
that astonishes men of the greatest sagacity, and the
inabitants are numbered by hundreds; churches and
schools have been organized, and every department of
business has its representatives In short, Hastings is
one of the "smart"  "fast" towns, where no money is
lost by investment.
Since writing the above, I have made a visit to this
precocious young town, for the avowed purpose of obtaining a sketch of it, to embellish the pages of this
book, but failed, with the jocose assurance, that "the
business activity and bustle have been such that they
have not kept still a sufficient time to obtain a daguerreotype impression." But as divided pleasures are always
doubled to the participators, I cannot refrain from imparting a little of the spice of this winter ride to my
readers. Thoroughly " hooded and cloaked "-for it was
one of the sturdy days near the close of 1856, with the
thermometer at fifteen degrees below zero-we left our
own comfortable sitting room with an exhilaration of
spirits, which such weather always here imparts, for a
seat in the sleigh of a clerical friend, who was going to
attend a "ministerial conference."
The woodmen, all intuitively understanding the necessity for an increase of fuel, with mammoth loads, were
hastening to town. We crossed the river and pursued
the narrow road winding among the bluffs, now in the
ravine and now on the summit, risking the danger of
being precipitated far down the declivity as we passed.
Load after load claimed the "highway."  Nothing more 
NEW TOWNS ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.   229
serious occurred, however, than the depredations of a
load of wood on the outer garment of my friend, leaving
it in a condition more fit for the rag weaver than clerical
wear.  Again, to prevent a break-neck ride, the horse
was headed upward, until the son of Erin had passed
with his load, and in returning to the thoroughfare, there
was no alternative but a grand overturn-a half-somerset, while he who had occasioned our bad and good luck
(good in that we got no broken bones), very kindly remarked,  "it was too bad," and hastened on with his
wood, leaving us to pick up ourselves,. our sleigh, and
its contents, and mend the broken  "thill," which was
done with a strap from the harness. Finally, after some
eight or ten miles' ride, we emerged into a fair landscape
scene, where there was nothing to break off the keenly
biting prairie wind.
Well nigh frozen, I was questioning if we had not left
Hiastings to the left, and were now some distance below,
when, with grateful satisfaction, we learned that it was
yet " six miles there," so, resolved to endure a little longer,
and leave the freezing process until another time, we
summoned all our latent will to accomplish the ride.
Glad, indeed, were we to draw around the cheerful cabin
fire of a friend just without the precincts of town, having
never more fully appreciated the comforts of a homeThat evening we listened to an appropriate and excellent
sermon before the "conference."  The following morning we looked over the surprising town-only three
years old-with its neat and tasteful residences, its substantial business blocks, and fifty-six stores, all doing above
a living business! The world affords no finer farming
country than stretches back from Hastings for fifty or
sixty miles, supporting it greatly by its products. 
230   NEW TOWLNS ON TfIE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
We were especially gTatified in a long-desired drive to
Vermillion Falls, one mile from the Mississippi, and included within the limits of the town. The utilitarian
spirit of the people has destroyed much of their original
interest, but cannot rob them of all their native wildness
and grandeur. A creek of the same name winds through
the fair prairie, with gently sloping banks, and plunges
at once into a wild chaos, such as we have rarely, if
ever, seen.   The fall is created  by terraced rocks,
some sixty feet ill height, and thence the stream rushes
madly on through a deep gorge, where rocks and trees,
in mingled confusion, give a peculiar wildness to the
scene.
Hastings numbers four Protestant churches, and the
Roman Catholics have one. With their usual foresight,
they have laid the foundation for immense wealth, having
early secured a large amount of real estate in the heart
of the town.  What a blessing to the world would Pro
testants manifest the same commendable zeal!
The Baptist church, gathered by the persevering efforts of Rev. E. \WV. Cressey, have called to their pastorate, Rev. John IHyde, a native of Vermont, and recently
from Philadelphia; a young man of fine ability, high
attainments, and a correct appreciation of the wants and
labors of the West.
The mercury had risen two degrees ere our horse's
head was homeward turned.  We drove to Douglass, in
order to take the "Cottage Grove" route home, and
found it a great improvement over the other. We, on
the whole, concluded that this is a very, very beautiful
world, and winter not devoid of charms, though the cold
does bite intensely. Go where one will, in Minnesota,
there is always something new to admire- some  nen 
NEW TOWNS ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.   231
phase.of beauty. Were it not for SIN, we would want
no brighter or better world than this!
At Red Rock we took the river; night soon closed
upon it; the horse refused to keep the path, and the
dim snow-light was our only guide. To increase the
variety, "sleigh-sickness" seized me with a firm and.unrelenting grasp. Half our time was consumed in hunti.ng the track, and all the while we were in fear of the
many air holes; but a kind Providence guided us
safely, and we hailed the light of home with delight,
feeling that few had experienced more rich social enjoyment and rural variety, in a fifty miles' tour, than we
did, in our trip to Hastings.
The editor of the St. Anthony Express gives an incident in his experience, while passing this town, of which
we are reminded, and which we quote:
"While sitting upon the deck," he says,  "enjoying
the delightful breeze and the flavor of a mild Havana,
we were accosted by a young man of most genteel address, and faultless moustache, in blandest terms, requesting the favor of lighting his cigar by our own.   Assuring him that it afforded us great pleasure to grant him
the favor, he drew up a vacant chair on our leftconversation once opened, *as not difficult of a continuance, under such  circumstances, with so well-in
formed a person our as new aquaintance seemed to be;
especially in regard to Minnesota affairs; for, to believe
his own account, he had traveled over nearly every part
of the territory, from Iowa to Pembina, from Superior
to the Rocky Mountains. IHe had'slain buffalo on the
plains, elk. on the Red River of the North; dug ores on
Superior, trapped with Kit Carson, and sold peltries to
the Fur Company in St. Paul, while in the full flush of 
232    NEW TOWNS ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
his power. He seemed to know every house and landing on the river, and by whom and when it was
erected.
"'Do you observe that light a few rods from the
bank,' asked he, pointing in a direction to our right, and
(as Fe subsequently recollected) accidently grazing with
his arm or hand, our left side.' There, a desperate encounter took place ten years ago this month, between
the Sioux and Ohippewas-the latter took some twenty
scalps of their enemy, and-hallo! here we are at
Hastings. I expect a friend on board here, and will go
down to meet him.'
"Upon entering the saloon as the boat pushed off
from Hastings, our'better half' inquired,' How on
earth we had torn our coat so?'  Torn our coat! ha!
ha! The side pocket was slit about four inches, as
neatly as any finger-ring knife could do it, and of course
our wallet gone. Fortunately, however, it contained
only some fifteen dollars, reserved for passage money,
so the rogue did not make his fortune by the operation.
W~e made some search for our newly formed traveling
acquaintance; but as we saw no more of him on board,
presumed he had gone ashore to find' his friend.' We
were half inclined to forgive the rascal for the theft, on
account of the scientific manner in which he performed
the job, he being evidently no bungler in the profession
he has adopted."
On the entire length of the river, where but a few
years ago was heard naught but the howl of the wolf,
and the "whoop"  of the Indian, embryo towns, and
farming communities, and Yankee improvenwnts, greet
the eye of the wandering traveler, and he can scarcely
credit his senses. Everything wears a new, fresh appear 
NEW TOWNS ON TRE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.    233
ince; but time will bring the impress of maturity, and
that at no very distant period.
The last bark lodge is destroyed, the last skin teepee removed from the village of "Little Crow."  The
mission house has new occupants, and the missionaries
have gone with the band towards the setting sun.  The
nucleus of another village is there, and Koposia smiles
under the hand of the industrious Anglo-Saxon.  Cultivated farms stretch far back above the bluffs so recently
surmounted with scaffoldings for the Indian dead, and
the whole region smiles with plenty.  The car of human
progress has passed over the land, bearing the motto,
"Enterprise!" 
CHAPTER XLV.
THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
THIE scenery above the Falls of St. Anthony undergoes a pleasing change. Its sublimity is lost in sweet
fields, pleasant groves, undulating plains and meandering
streamlets, with low, verdant banks.
The agricultural resources of Minnesota, all things
considered, are unsurpassed; hence we find all lands subject to private entry already entered, and to a great extent
improved. The march of civilization has advanced with
the upward windings of the river, and for a hundred and
fifty miles above the falls, farms have been opened and
are yielding in rich abundance.  Captain Pope, whose
authority is before quoted, says, "he has traveled this territory from north to south, the distance of five hundred
miles, and with the exception of a few swamps, has seen
not one acre of unproductive land." This vast region is
not only capable of sustaining an immense population,
but in climate and otherwise presents great inducements
to immigrants.
The timber most abundant in this region is the ash,
and birch of small growth, while higher up and on the
tributaries, gw the white and yellow pine and other
large forest trees. These are cut and floated down the
river and at various points converted into lumber for the
use of the embryo towns, both above and below the
falls.
The towns here as elsewhere are making efforts to rise
L2,34] 
THE UPPER MISSISSIPPi.
in the world's esteem and hold a distinguished rank.
Manomin, seven miles above the falls, is first in this
direction. John Banfill was the original settler and proprietor of the town, having made his'claim' here in
1847. HIis was the only cabin grown to a respectable size
when first I visited the spot, but long since
"City lots were staked for sale
Above old Indian graves."
It is located at the mouth of Rice Creek, which has its
origin in a lake of the same name, and its name from the
abundance of wild rice growing therein.
Skirting the river are the increasingly important towns
of Itasea, Mionticello, St. Cloud, Sauk Rapids, &c., &c.
The last mentioned is noted as including among its "first
settlers," Minnesota's most gifted daughter, "M innie Mlary
Lee."  Her charming letters and tales of the "goodlie
land," bright with her own poetic fancy, bring the living
reality to the mind's eye.  Long may she live, singing in
melodious strain the echoes of her own heart. But I
fancy I catch a plaintive note; for the fiat has gone forth,
and her pet-darling,  the cherished rose-bud  of their
domestic circle is withered, and the gentle spirit seems to
nestle among the prairie flowers inviting her to plaintiveness.
St. Cloud, three miles below Sauk Rapids, on the opposite side of the river, is destined to outstrip that older
town. It is located on a beautiful plain elevated above
the river some thirty or forty feet, with an easy and natural road from the steamboat landing at the lower extremity of the town. On this elevation stands a large and
beautiful hotel in the modern style of architecture, which
does honor to the enterprise and forethought of the cit
235 
THiE UPPER  MISSISSIPPI.
izens.  In the rear of the present surveyed town-plot, is
Lake George, and the extensive rich valley lands of the
Sauk River, through which the Red River teams pass in
their semi-annual visits to St. Paul. This place is now
attracting the attention of men of wealth, and capital and
energy are being employed to make it the most important
town above the Falls. It has one of the best saw-mills in
the Territory; several dry goods and provision stores, a
charter for a University, and is the county seat of
Stearnes County, and has a weekly mail over a government road to Lake Superior. The entire region of country
is destined to share largely in the commerce of the
northwest.
At the mouth of Crow Wing River, about twenty
miles above the Falls, is Waterville, a young town, of
which Lyman Dayton, of St. Paul, is proprietor.  The
location is a fine one, and the elements at work will not
leave it long behind its more advanced sisters.
On the north branch of the Crow  Wing River, is
Forest City, which sprang suddenly into existence in the
early spring of 185o6. A few months previous, a young
man from the East had surveyed a claim, and thinking
it too remote to be interfered with, without'proving up,'
left for the winter.  He returned to find a town site
occupying his claim, and some thirty dwellings already
erected. Such is the rapidity with which towns are
started in this progressive land and age.
On the south branch of the Crow Wing  River is
Ilutchinson, founded by  the celebrated vocalists, the
tiutchinson brothers.  The inhabitants here are of the
choicest character, and all business matters relative to the
advance of the town, are transacted under the strictest
temperance regulations. The conditions of sale of town
lots are such, that if in after years any liquor traefficking
236 
THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
establishment is erected thereon, the land reverts to the
original owner. A noble example, and in exact keeping
with the principles of these noble brothers and their
associates.
Thirty miles from the mouth and on the Crow Wing
river, is Fort Ripley, built in 1849 and 1850, a defence of
the frontier against the encroachments and depredations
of the Chippewas and Winnebagoes.  A stage route and
mail line connects this and intermediate points with St.
Paul.  The citizens in this region have no feelinig that
they are cut off from the busy world.  Many portions of
New England and of the Empire State are vastly more
isolated than the most obscure parts of Minnesota, while
the glowing, natural beauties of the latter, afford unalloyed companionship-an ample compensation for any
lack of society.
One hundred and fifty miles above the falls, we come
to Long Prairie.  Formerly, the seat of the Winnebago
Agency was here. At Bell Prairie is the mission boardingschool, established by Rev. Mr. Ayer and his excellent
wife. Great good has been effected through their unwearied efforts, with the Chippewas, to whose improvement their lives seem especially devoted. Buoyant with
hope they toil on, amid discouragements calculated to
appal the stoutest hearts, while even the Christian world
has no just appreciation of their valuable labors. Eternity
will alone develope their full results.
Still further up, and extending to the British lines, is
Pembina, the most northern county, where one finds a
busy, scattered population, of English, French and halfbreeds. The latter are mostly living in the manner of
their red ancestors, without fixed habitations, abiding for
a time in lodges, and in character and habits evincing
little of their Anglo-Saxon extraction.
237 
CHAPTER XLVI.
INHABITANTS OF PEMBINA.
TEE majority of the half-breeds of this region subsist
chiefly by the avails of the hunt.  A company of hunters
are usually absent from their homes from one to three
months, and three or foul days are consumed in reaching
the heart of their hunting grounds.  Their women always
accompany them to take charge of the spoils, prepare the
food, and perform any other service required by their
husbands.
The white traders have mostly married in the Indian
country, and their children have few of the benefits of
civilization; hence the mixed, uncultivated race that flood
the land.  Some of these men, however, to their honor
be it said, are devoting great care to *he education and
improvement of their offspring, thus supplying, as far as
possible, the want of cultivation and intelligence in their
Indian mothers.
They are, as a race, brave and hardy; fine horsemen
and skillful marksmen, and might be valuable citizens did
they not, as a whole, repudiate civilization. In religion
they are Romanists, and strongly attached to its forms
and ceremonies.
Efforts have been made to introduce evangelical religion amongst them, and not wholly without success. The
Baptist Home  Mission Board appointed Rev. James
Tanner, a half-breed Chippewa, as their missionary, who
made long and fatiguing journeys, ostensibly for the good
(a] 
INHABITANTS OF PEMBINA.
of his people. Hie accomplished several trips to St. Paul,
seven hundred miles, with a dog-sledge and snow shoes,
and was baptized here in the winter of 1852.  For reasons
well understood by the denomination, the patronage of
the Board is withdrawn, and he has been deposed from
the ministry.
During his first visit to this place, he so graphically
depicted the miseries and spiritual wants of his degraded
countrymen, that Elijah Terry, a valuable young member
of the Baptist Church, was induced to offer himself a sacrifice upon the missionary altar, and return with him'to
instruct them in the Gospel. It was a season of thrilling
interest, when the dangers, trials and difficulties, involved
in that decision, were publicly set before him. Extending
to him the "hand of fellowship," Mr. Tanner bade him
welcome to the hardships and toils of his own path, and
portrayed most vividly the scenes through which he
would be called to pass. Sufferings from cold, hunter and
fatigue-a bed-of snow, with heaven's canopy for a covering, the wolves keeping night watch near by, were trifles
in comparison to the conflicts that awaited him. " The
arrow or the tomahawk," says Mr. Tanner, "may lay yon
low, and the scalping knife finish the work. You may
be required to take up my lifeless remains and lay them
in their last resting place, and move on in your perilous
journey alone; or it may be my duty to cover your mnortal
remains; or we may both fall a prey to the jaws of a
hungry wolf, or worse, the blood-thirsty spirit of the savage. In view of all these things, and even more, can you
still trust in God and move forward?  Do you still say
you will go?"  Every breath was suspended for the moment.  Distinctly and decidedly came  the answer, "I
WILL GO."
239 
INHIABITANTS OF PEMBINA.
On foot, with occasional restings upon the "train," they
alone passed over the trackless wild; but news of their
safety reached St. Paul, and the young volunteer had
entered upon his labors with alacrity and delight. The
sacrifice was not laid upon the altar to be withdrawn,
though there were foes on every hand and threatening
dangers all around. Again there were tidings from this
remote spot. The Indians had done their worst; for
cause unknown, and never yet understood, Mfr. Terry had
been surprised and murdered. He was found pinned to
the ground by several arrows, his back in several places
bearing the marks of the tomahawk; his scalp had been
carried away by the murderous band.
With a half-breed, he had early in the morning started
for the woods in search of timber to be used for the erec
tion of a school-house.  At the moment the arrow hit hi
he was chanting a favorite hymn.   The first arrow
brought him to his knees, and raising his eyes to Heaven
he commenced an ejaculatory prayer, when the second, it
is said, fastened him to the earth. Governor Ramsey took
active and vigilant measures to bring the murderers to
justice, but without success; he also issued a peremptory
demand for the scalp, but it was never returned.
Some two years after this, Mr. and Mlrs. Spencer were
prosecuting the arduous labors of missionaries at the same
point.  While they were attending upon a sick child in
the night-watches, having neglected the usual precaution
to close the blinds, a company of drunken savages, guided
by the light, sent a ball into the heart of Mrs. S. What
an hour of trial was that to an affectionate husband! The
lo  ly and accomplished wife of his bosom cut down so
suddenly and by murderous hands, lay weltering in her
oWf:%lood, while he could not leave her, and dared not
240 
IN1HABITANTS OF PEMBINA.
leave the house for assistance! Thus for two long hours,
waiting and wishing for the day, her life ebbing away
with every breath, did he "watch and pray," while she
remained perfectly conscious, calmly committing herself
into her Redeemer's hands. When the sun looked through
the casement upon that scene, the stricken husband and
weeping children stood over the lifeless body of that devoted Christian woman, murdered by those she had sought
to save. "Surely the dark places of the earth are full of
the habitations of cruelty."
Yet, in face of dangers and violent deaths, the Indian
must be sought and saved. His redemption has been
purchased, and he must be instructed in the "way of salvation." A fatality has seemed to rest upon this station,
and all its embarrassments may not here be enumerated.
But there is wisdom in their design, and IHe who suffers
them will "make the wrath of man to praise him "-will
bring light out of darkness, good out of evil. His assurance is, "What I do thou knowest not now, but shalt
know hereafter."
11
241 
CHAPTER XLVII.
THE GREAT THOROUGHFARES, ETC.
WAITHIN the limits of our territory, and within a few
miles of each other, are the sources of earth's noblest
streams, one flowing southward into the Gulf of vlexico,
and the other northward into the Polar Sea-the two
thus making one vast stretch through every clime, and
furnishing great facilities for commerce to every part of
this vast region. The Mississippi drains and fertilizes
an extent of country unequaled by any in the world, and
is, in fact, the great central thoroughfare of the continent.
Bounding the territory on the east is the mighty inland
sea, with the proudest craft navigating its waters. Until
the summer of 1853, not a tree was felled at the head
waters of Lake Superior. The birch canoes of the Chippewas were the only craft on those waters; and a trip
thence to St. Paul was a daring adventure, which could
only be performed with Indian guides through devious
trails, and by enduring weeks of hardship.
J. A. Bullen, of St. Paul, was the first white man who
hung his camp-kettle, filled from the waters of Lake Superior, over a fire of sticks gathered on its shore. HIere
he built his cabin, made his "claim," and resided for
several months, with no society but his cook and the natives. But a city of surprising advantages and astonishing growth now stands on lands which were then taken
by "squatters" at one dollar and twenty-five cents per
[242] 
THE GREAT THIOROUGHFARES, ETC.
acre, and within two years "sell at prices that indicate a
value of over two million dollars for the whole."  No
vacant lands can be found within ten miles of the city of
Superior, and lands in its immediate vicinity command
fifty and one hundred dollars per acre. Two years later,
and "fine steamers, as fine as any that float on Lake Erie,
make weekly trips, with large cargoes and hosts of pas sengers, landing at the dock of Superior." The United
States government has made a good wagon-road thence to
St. Paul, at an expense of one hundred thousand dollars,
"which mingles the commerce and travel of Lake Su perior and the Upper Mississippi. The distance by this
route is one hundred and seventy miles, and the trip is
often performed in four days."
"A munificent grant of land has been made by Congress, for building a railroad from the city of Superior
to Hudson,:on the St. Croix," which will be completed in
June, 1859. This will, of course, be extended to St.
Paul; and thence to St. Anthony, which is already
under consideration.
"A question whether it be not too cold for any great
strides as a commercial city, is frequently propounded.
To this one answers'No.  It is not so cold at Superior
as Boston; and the climate is drier, more healthful, and
every way more delightful. Can a city be built at Boston?  The question is already answered.  Then, a much
greater and much pleasanter city can be built at Superior.
It will grow with amazing rapidity, and reach one hundred thousand in less time from its beginning than
Chicago did.'"
The mineral wealth of the contiguous region is unrivaled in the world, if we except California; its fisheries
and lumber are unsurpassed in the Union; and besides. it
243 
THE GREAT THOROUGHFARES, ETC.
is the mart of an immense agricultural country, such as no
city of the East can boast.  In the Minnesota Valley,
coal has been discovered in limited quantities; building stone, of excellent quality, is found in nearly all
parts, and abundance ol clay, for the manufacture of
brick.
BRtween latitude 47 and 49, and longitude west 97
and 99, is said to be an immense salt region. Its locality
was ascertained and defined by an expedition sent out
from Fort Snelling, by Major Long, in 1822-23. "Probably there is not a richer salt region on the face of the
earth than the one in Minnesota. The territory is generally considered valuable alone for its agricultural and
lumber resources. Nothing, however, can be more erroneous. True, its natural agricultural wealth is probably
second to none in the Mississippi Valley, but its mineral
wealth is not less extensive and valuable. Among the latter, salt stands preeminent." A soldier in the expedition
says that they had been traveling for several days over a
vast rolling prairie, with no trees or water, the troops
and horses almost famishing with thirst, when they came
suddenly upon the shores of a beautiful lake, about half
a mile in diameter, sunk down in the deep plain. It
resembled a vast sink-hole. From a height above the
waters, a vast snow-bank appeared to line its shore; but
on examination it proved to be an incrustation of salt, as
pure and white as snow.  The waters of the lake were
like the strongest brine; so strong, that one bathing in
it, upon coming out, in a few minutes would be covered
with a white crystalization of salt. It is said that a short
distance below the surface, the pure rock salt lies in
strata, like coal or lime rock.  Public attention being
called to this fact, a "Salt Company "has been projected.
244 
THE GREAT THOROUGHFARES, ETC.
and if the results are at all equal to expectation, Minnesota has more intrinsic wealth  than any state in the
Union; and, it is estimated by the St. Louis Union, is
capable of yielding an annual income equal to the entire
revenue of the country.
245 
C IHAP TER XLVIIII.
A FRIGHT.
As before said, each spring and fall a caravan of a
hundred ox teams, more or less, arrives in St. Paul.
These oxen are driven tandem before a kind of cart peculiar to that region-not a particle of iron being used in
their construction. These carts answer, perhaps, quite
as good a purpose for the trackless prairie and openings
as vehicles of a more civilized workmanship. The groaning of the rude wheel on the wooden axle is doleful to
the ear; but the rich and valuable furs, the rare and
delicately-executed specimens of needle-work, with which
the rough cart-box is packed, are pleasing to the eye.
These are exchanged for articles of domestic use, all of
which must be taken back in the same way.
I wish to introduce my readers to a model garment, of
curious and ingenious workmanship, and shall therefore
be obliged to preface my description of it with an incident in my personal experience. Alone, one evening, in
my         room, wholly absorbed in reflection, I scarcely noticed a quick footstep in the adjoining hall. Soon there
was a fumbling at the door, and as I turned my head in
expectation of greeting a lady friend, a figure of preposterous dimensions stood in the half open door, with one
arm elevated above the head. I remember no more than
that I retreated a step or two, and fell to the floor. For
a moment I was conscious of the tottering of reason,
which seemed about to be dethroned, when a well-known
voice, announcing a familiar name, the sudden divest        U246] 
A  FRIGIIT.
ment of the outer garment, and the appearance of the ex pected lady, who had kept back until "the surprise"
was over, combined to rescue me from idiocy. Equipped
"cap-a-pie," a friend had honored me with a call "in a
princely garb," and I, foolish girl that I was, had supposed him to be "the prince of darkness."
The coat was of Russian dog-skin, of a light tan color,
and the thick massy hair, falling over the head within,
had given the giant-like appearance to the wearer. The
collar, cuffs, and entire margin, were of the curling hair.
It fitted loosely, but smoothly, reaching nearly to the
ground, and was covered with broad bands of red and
green morocco, into which twenty pounds of gayest
colored silk floss were wrought.
On the head was a blue cloth cap, with a broad cape,
w.vroughlt with gay-colored beads, and from the peak
waved a combination of various-colored ribbons; and so
completely disguised by them was the wearer, that he
could only have been recognized by his voice.
The thrilling tales and adventures of these hardy
frontier men are full of interest.  The rehearsal of his
own experience, by a Scotch gentleman, was the first to
arouse a spirit of inquiry relative'to the vast region so
rarely traversed by civilized man, and, until recently, almost unknown. iHe' was connected with the Hudson
Bay Company, and in prosecution of business had three
times on foot crossed the Rocky Mountains between Fort
Vancouver and Selkirk. In this high latitude, snows
have accumulated for ages, and, incredible as it mnay
seem, often cover trees which are two hundred feet high.
Avalanches are frequent; and a providential delay, on
one occasion, prevented his company from becoming victimns to their resistless power' The entire and only pass
247 
A FRIGHT.
was filled  -v,th crushed trees and ice, through which,
with great difficulty, after many days, they effected their
way, often wading, waist high, through melting snows.
Several voyages to Europe, with expeditions like the
above, had not satisfied the adventurous spirit of this
gentleman, and we last heard of him, withl his wife and
daughter, on the land route for California.
A romantic journey was performed  by the Roman
Catholic Bishop of Oregon, on foot and alone, in four
months, from Astoria to St. Paul, where, after recruiting
a few days, he left for Rome, Italy.  Rich and varied
were the displays of Almighty power, of chaste and delicate beauty, upon which his soul uninterruptedly feasted,
when his ear would listen in vain for any sound save
that of his owni voice. Amid such scenes, the skeptic
soul instinctively admits there is a God, and renders him
unconscious homage. One's own self becomes a mere
speck in the universe, while he feels the invisible presence
of HtIM whose hand hath formed it all.
Could a daguerreotype of natural scenery be made indelibly on the canvas of the soul, the justly celebrated
Kit Carsoi's would present the most varied, rich, and
unique, though his wanderings have not reached as far
north as the limits of the field which we describe. One
of his acquaintances, who was his frequent traveling
companion, known in that region as Jim Goodale, was,
with myself, a guest at the house of a mutual relative,
and gave us a new insight into hunting, trapping, and
voyaging life. Scarcely a mile between the Mississippi
and the Rocky Mountains, from Mexico to Minnesota,
but has been traversed by Mr. Goodale; and three times
has he visited the Pacific coast. Possessing general intelligence of the foreign and commercial world, of gentle
248 
A FRIGIT.
manly and dignified deportment, and a devoted admirer
of nature, he is peculiarly fitted to be the companion and
guide of those who cross the plains. Hie relates many
thrilling and hair-breadth escapes from the attacks of wild
animals, and the no less ferocious Indians; he has been
witness to many a tragic scene, and has himself been the
subject of most astonishing preservations.  Several hundred miles from human habitation, the small company,
of which he was the head, once fotlund, to their dismay,
that their mules had left during the night, conveying
away all their "outfit." Mr. Goodale immediately sent
his men back to Fort Laramie, and himself, without food,
and with no companion but a rifle, followed the track of
the mules.  In his first effort to obtain food his gln
burst, and he soon lost all trace of the trail. He now
shaped his course in the direction of an encampment;
but that had broken up, and he could have no hope of
overtaking it. After being four days without food, the
cravings of hunger no longer haunted him. HIe now
changed his course, and directed all his energies to reaching Fort Laramie, the nearest point of relief.  Towards
evening of the ninth day, having walked in all three
hundred miles, he drew near the village of some friendly
Indians, who saw his condition, recognized him as a
friend, and aided him to a wigwam. To use his own
language, "He had now become so weak, that he could
not have held out an hour longer." Thleir care was like
that of tender parents for a child. Giving him nourishment with the utmost caution and good judgment, they
watched him through the night, resisting his uncontrollable entreaties for food, until it was prudent to satisfy
his craving demands; and t:) their care and discretion
he owed his double preservat:on from death,
11*
249 
CHAPTER XLIX.
ADVENTURES OF EARLY TRADERS.
CAMERoN was a trader of the early part of this century,
whose grave is on the bank of the Minnesota.  Volumes
of rare interest might be written from the rehearsal of
old Milnor, one of his employes, who is living at Mendota, still retaining strong muscular powers with a tenacity of life rarely met. The following is one incident
in the ordeal of their endurance:
The winter was fast upon Milnor and his fellow-voyagers, and they had delayed so long collecting their packs
of skin, that the ice formed one night too strong to permit their descending the stream in a canoe. There was,
however, some hope of a thaw; and they kept waiting
from day to day, until their provisions, of which they
had but a slight supply, were exhausted. They had
nothing left now, but to leave their packs of skins under
the canoe, and take to the woods, in the hope that Cameron, who was at a distant trading post-below, seeing the
state of the weather, would send relief to them.
The snow was too deep to enable them to carry any
burden; and with their last meal in their pockets, they
commenced their journey. They met with no game of
any kind on the way; and on the night of the second
day, were reduced to the necessity of stripping the bark
from a tree, which they tried to masticate.  The next
morning, the severity of the weather increased, and no
alternative presented itself, but stopping to die on the
[2501 
ADVENTURES OF EARLY TRADERS.
way, or making the most desperate effort to extricate
themselves. On the morning of the third day, two of
the men became weak, and frequently urged Milnor to
stop, but he always opposed these delays. The poor fel lows knew that delay would be fatal to the whole party,
yet the sense of present distress took away all ability to
exercise.
MAilnor, ahead of them all, came before night to a place
somewhat sheltered from the piercing wind, and seeing
some signs that the bushes had been disturbed, he stepped
aside and found a dead Indian beside the remains of a
small fire.  Hle now shouted to the men to come on; and
pointing to the Indian told them that would be their fate
before morning if they stopped.  Frightened at the sight,
they kept up a good pace until a late hour; and Milnor
being in a part of the country he was acquainted with,
took one of the most active of the men with him and
after great exertion had the good luck to catch two muskrats. With these they returned to the men who had
built up a good fire; and having eaten one of the animals, they all lay down to sleep, and rested very well.
In the morning they ate the other before starting; and
as they were a little more cheerful, MIilnor told them if
they would walk like men, he would take them to a
place where there were plenty of muskrats, and that as
soon as they had laid in a supply, he would strike across
the country to Traverse des Sioux, where they would be
sure to hear of Cameron and get food. In several days
they caught but one muskrat.
On the morning of the eighth day, they had not been
marching ani hour, when Milnor looking attentively to
the southeast, declared that he saw a smoke in that direction and that there must be a fire. This, as he said, had
.+
251 
ADVENTURES OF EARLY TRADERS.
the effect of a glass of eau de vie upon them, and they went
briskly on for two or three hours. But this cheering
sign disappeared, and the men were beginning to despond
again, when the thought struck Milnor that if any party
were coming for their relief they would naturally be
keeping a lookout also. In less than an hour after, he
had gained the bluff and saw a thick column of smoke,
not more than three miles distant. HIe immediately
waved his cap, shouted to his companions, and set off in
the direction of the smoke, and found the relief he
expected. Two men, each with a pack containing biscuit,
had been despatched from Traverse des Sioux, and Canmeron, with three others, was to leave in a canoe if the
expected thaw should admit, and at any rate, he would
start with an additional supply. Milnor, having rested
himself, set out to meet his comrades with the reinforcement, and when they saw him the happy fellows began
to dance.
This incident in the adventures of Milnor is very honorable to Cameron, who made so resolute an attempt to
relieve his poor companions, when the chances were so.
much against his success.
b
252 
CHAPTER L.
INDIAN TRIBES.
WE now come to speak more definitely of the several
Indian tribes, found within th eprecinets of our territory.
The Dakotas are a powerful tribe, numbering about thirty
thousan?   Their  name  signifies Allies;  the nation
being comtposed of many clans united together. To the
world, they are more generally known as Sioux-a name
repudiated by themselves, as it was given them by their
enemies, the Chippewas. Their country, above the Red
Wood River, extends south from the Minnesota to the
Platte River. Until recently it stretched several hundred
miles on the Mississippi.
There is an impression prevailing at the East, that the
Indians are cheated, wronged of their'just and inalienable
rights' by our government.
"Alas! the poor Idian!!" said a worthy, honesthearted, and (on other subjects) well-informed man.
"How cruelly, how unjustly, they have been treated!
There is not a nation on earth so guilty of gross injustice as our own."
"In what particular, sir, allow me to inquire, has
our nation been so guilty?"
"Why, in a wholesale robbery in taking away their
lands."
"But sir, does not our Government render them a full
equivalent, and even more? So long as the Indian lives
by the chase, the more remote he is from civilization the
more fortunate for him. I do not vindicate the former 
INDIAN TRIBES.
policy pursued with them, while I do and must approve
the more recent action of the government. Hle exchanges
his lands      "
"But suppose a man comes and takes from me my
home in this village (it was a quiet Eastern village) and
gives me one out here among the mountains, which I do
not want, would you call that justice?"
Certainly not, unless you fully concurred in the
arrangement. But the Indians have no individual claims
to the land, their lands are common; and our government no longer takes them without remuneration; and I
have no doubt it is for the benefit of both parties.  As
civilization advances the game recedes, and while they
will not till the land, to remove where game is plenty;
is decidedly to their advantage, and the fifty thousand
dollars annually distributed among a small portion of
the tribe, ought to place them above want."
"But do they never want?  Do we not hear frightful
stories of suffering and starvation among them?"
"Certainly we do, but it is owing to their improvident
use of money and time.  Th%y are notoriously lazy.  They
have far more sense than is attributed to them, and they
know the benefit of civilization, but will not profit by it.
My views in relation to them are greatly modified since
coming in contact with them, and so will it be with any
person's under like circumstances."
"Well, if the government is disposed to do right in
relation to them, why does it not educate them?"
"So it would do. Two thousand dollars are annually
expended on a single band in this way. There are also
appropriations for their instruction in agriculture, and
stringent laws against the introduction of liquor into their
new territory."
254 
INDIAN TRIBES.
"Ah! but it is all injustice," persisted my friend, "an
injustice which our nation can never wipe from her
escutcheons; and must suffer for, severely! "
I was conversing with a devoted veteran missionary
on this same subject.  "Such," he said, "were once his
impressions, but," says he, "a twelve years' residence
amonfg them has entirely changed my views in reference
to the injustice of both the traders and the Government.
The imposition and fraud is on the other side, while the
dealings of Government cannot but be considered as just
and honorable. And so far from depressing him, the
great defect in our whole system, as it is brought to bear
upon the Red Man, is that of not bringing him under the
restraints and protection of the aw."
The moral as well as temporal condition of the Indian
(to our shame be it said), is better in the main when he is
far removed from intercourse with the whites. Where
access is easy to the settlements, he has all the vices and
few, if any, of the virtues of the white man.  Away from
the debasi-ng influence of the whiskey seller, the efforts of
the missionary are more potent for good, and in the
remote stations churches have been gathered and the
transforming power of the Gospel has wrought visible
changes.
There are, in all, about twenty missionaries, devoted
to the thirty thousand Dakotas, scattered over an immense
territory, and, from their wandering habits, difficult of
access. However, native schools have been established,
into which the children and youth, as far as possible, have
been gathered. Books have been translated, and, with
the Bible, printed in their own tongue.  The "Dakota
Lexicon," prepared by Rev. Mr. Riggs, of Lac qui Parle
is a valuable work, and the result of great labor.
255 
INDIAN TRIBES.
The first and probably only newspaper ever published
for their benefit, was edited by Rev. G. H. Pond, and was
really what it professed to be, "The Dakota Friend."
Said I to a devoted missionary lady, "Your labors are
too arduous, your self-denials too great, with all your
domestic cares, and a whole band of Indians making constant demands upon you."
"Oh no," she replied, "our sacrifices are very trifling
in comparison to what the Savior has done for us.  TVe
shall have to make greater sacrifices, and the Christian
world greater, before the poor Indian is redeemed as a
nation from heathenism."
In my soul I wondered, what further sacrifices they
..ould make; though I doubted if the Christian world was
free from censure. They may repose on beds of down,
beneath costly draperies, and be clothed in "purple and
fine linen," while the anxious, toil-worn missionaries
restrict themselves to -a prude-t use of even the necessaries
of liJf; but the faithful servants of their Divine Master
shall, by and by, receive their reward, and sweet to them
will be the rest of Heaven.
Weary and sick, I was spending a few weeks at the
Little Crow Mission house, during the time of their holy
convocation-the "annual meeting." From three hundred miles distant the single ox-carts, covered with
canvas, and laden with wives and children, cooking utensils, food, and beds, had come over trackless prairies,
through forests and across streams, the company increasing
as it advanced until it formed quite a caravan.
The full moon was riding high in the heavens, throwing
its mellow light on wood and plain, on river and dale, as
the procession drew up before our door; and I doubted,
if in all her mighty round, she looked upon a soeono more
2,56 
INDIAN TRIBES.
interesting.  The greetings and rejoicings were melting
to the soul. Some of the newly arrived company had
scarcely seen a white face, save those of their own family;
for a year. Could Christians at home have been there,
it would have done them good and moved their hearts
with sympathy for their self-denying brethren, who, far
from all the refinements of civilized life, uncheered by
the society of friends, are toiling on for the salvation of
these children of the forest.
To Traverse des Sioux came Mrs. Hopkins, a fair bride
of seventeen, when scarcely a settler had built his cabin
on the Mississippi; and cheerfully she walked, hand in
hand, with her faithful husband.  A sweet smile played
upon her features as she said, " The fairest home of her
native state would not tempt an exchange for her home at
Traverse."  Both she and Mrs. Riggs would interest and
grace the most intelligent and refined circles; but prefer
the luxury of doing good, of laboring to save their red
sisters, to treading in the courts of fashion or dwelling in
homes of ease.  They understand the true value and
design of life.
The Dakotas little appreciate the value of education,
and are, as a whole, opposed to the appropriation of Government annuities for schools. A harangue on this subject once greeted my morning slumbers before the sun
had arisen. Old Shackopee, with his band, had pitched
his teepee directly in front of my window, and thus early
had he commenced an oration, the import of which was
the injustice of the Government in insisting on an appropriation for schools.  They "ought to have the disposal of
their own money; schools were of no use; " and the "old
man eloquent" labore d long and hard to awaken a corresbonding sentiment and a spirit of insubordination amongst
257 
LNDIAN TRIBES.
his people. They remained on the ground for several days,
and each morning about the same hour the same "elo quent" tones greeted my ear.  Probably they expected
a report of their dissatisfaction to be conveyed to Wash ington.
I occasionally strolled among their teepees, and never
without seeing much to disgust me; and once I paused
before the opening, to watch the women in their culinary
operations. One was dressing ducks and another roasting
the entrails, which were devoured with greediness; and
a kettle of vegetables was suspended over a few burning
sticks. Hearing a low moaning sound I entered the
teepee, and there a poor woman in a raging fever, with
throbbing temples, lay with her head to the fire, and no
persuasion could induce a change of position. Passing
on to another, I paused a moment at the open door, where
several hale young men of the band were engaged at
cards; all engrossed, they did not raise their eyes at first,
and when at last I was discovered, they uttered words of
insolence, and I passed on. Returning to the house, I
encountered several little girls with huge packs of wood
upon their backs, each of which would outweigh the
bearer. A pappoose, perhaps a year old, was crying in
the dirt, and at the sister's desire I placed it upon the
burden she bore, and on they went staggering under their
cruel load; and strange as it may seem, their merry lauigh
rung out full and free from their childish hearts. Poor
children! born to misery and vice-doomed to ignoble
toil! Other tribes have been Christianized, and these too
will submit to the Gospel's benign influence.  The precious seed is now sown-eventually the harvest time will
come.
I now recall a most unpromising little girl, whom I
258 
i 
~,~~>~~~
-<'A
A'U.NT BEISFY. 
INDIAN TRIBES.
frequently saw about the mission premises, almost "as
wild as wild could be."  She was finally adopted into the
mission family, and underwent, in one year, a complete
metamorphosis. She had in this time learned to sew and
knit with surprising skill; had become tidy in person,
could perform many domestic duties; had learned to
read and write, and to sing with great sweetness, and
spoke English with fluency.  Grace, however, had not
transformed her heart at this time, and when displeased,
her only revenge was a threat to "run Indian again."
The Indian children are universally quick in perception,
and when the mind is thoroughly enlisted, they make rapid
advances in any course of improvement.
Labor is deemed an unpardonable disgrace by the men,
and even the women think it degrading to their husbands
and sons.  One once said to Miss W., "Are you not
ashamed that your brother makes the fire by which you
warm yourself?"
Another complained of hard toil, lameness, &c., to
whom Miss W. said, "Why does not your son chop the
wood? he is strong."  Highly indignant, she replied,
"Do you think I would suffer my son thus to disgrace
himself!"  They deeply commiserate the case of the white
man-slave to the women, as he is!
The Indians are incorrigible beggars. Give them once,
and you may always give, or offend.  So, too, must they
be doubly rewarded for any service they render you. On
the occasion that old Betsey gave me a couch in her canoe,
being unable to attend to it myself, I saw Dr. Williamson
amply reward her, and satisfaction lurked  in every
wrinkle of her face. A few days after she called at my
boarding-house in St. Paul and demanded full pay, which
was given, and she then called at the office of my physi
259 
INDIALN TRIBES.
cian, with her pitiful story of a "lame arm and no pay
for it," and he, too, satisfied the demand, in order to get
rid of her. No sooner had I returned in health, than with
a doleful face, and the "arm lame so bad," she claimed a
reward. Having learned the whole I determined to abide
by advice, but, to credit her own statement, the arm was
never well nor was the debt ever canceled. It is said
that she can "steal more, lie more, work more, and withal
has more character, than any woman of her tribe;" and I
once heard it remarked, that she "had no redeeming
quality but insolence."
As a nation, they are disgustingly filthy. Rarely is
any article of their wardrobe subject to washing, and the
greasy blanket which was originally white, answers vario6s purposes besides that of a covering. The fruit,
game and sugar are carried in it, slung over the back;
and flour, bread or meat, which they may receive from
the whites for their articles of sale; and perhaps just elevated above the shoulder is the head of the pappoose,
whose extremities are dangling amid the condiments for
the next meal. In their sugar camps, if the syrup is filtered at all it is through the blanket which has been worn
all winter at least, and this sugar is offered for sale among
the citizens; and not unfrequently the taste of the blanket
is distinguishable. I need not say that Indian sugar has
become quite unpopular.
They are fond of bathing in warm weather, practicing
it to a great extent, and but for this and their active life
they would doubtless suffer much from their filthy7 habits.
It is not uncommon to see fifteen or twenty, at their village, bathing at a time. Indeed, there is scarcely an hour
but the splashing water indicates the pleasurable excitement.  Children of all ages can swim, and find genuino
260 
INDIAN TRIBES.
sport in diving, kicking and darting through the water
with all the grace and fearless ease of young ducks, while
their careless, hearty laugh, is echoed by the grove-coverec
shores.  I have known Indian children not three years
old leave their homes alone for a swim, exciting no alarm
or anxiety.
261 
CHAPTER LI.
THE WAKANA MAN.
THE Sioux, likle the Indians of most other tribes, have
a strong belief in supernatural powers, and are filled with
all manner of foolish fantastical notions; and great impo sitions are often practiced by' the more subtile upon their
weak and superstitious brethren.
A story is told, and believed, of a young Indian who
was supposed to possess supernatural power, in a degree
surpassing any who had before lived.  Hle could eat
fire, run himself through with a knife, live in the water
like a fish, swallow poison, throw himself from heights,
unharmed, and, in short, there was nothing that he could
not do; and for years he had held his superstitious
tribe aghast.  At last, he announced that he would cut
off the head of a man and restore it without injuring
him.  Ihis father remonstrated; for he wts a considerate
man, and wished to prevent the rash act. As they, one
day, were smoking their "kinnekricknick," he broached
the subject, and the father repled:
"Son, it is not possible, that a man should live and
act without a head!"
"Yes, father, a man can live with his head chopped
off, until it carn be replaced," replied the son.
"Son, I admit that you can do anything but what the
gods can do; but when you talk of doing such an act,
you go beyond all reason, and blaspheme  the Good
[262] 
THPE'""AKAN IMAN.
Spirit, who will frown upon you.  I say again, you
cannot do it.  The tribe have now confidence in your
great powers-if your words come to their ears, there
will be enough to believe you can do even this. In the
experiment you will destroy the life of a friend, lose
your reputation, and reduce yourself and family to shame.
You know you cannot succeed."
"Father, it is not strange you should talk so, since
you do not believe. I can do what I know I can do."
"Son, my hair is wlhite, and in mry day have heard
wondrous sounds and seen wondrous sights, but have
not heard of a man living without a head."
"Pshaw! you old men, who lived so long ago, whose
hair has turned gray, and whose hearts and flesh have
become wrinkled and soft like a potato that has been
frozen and thawed again- who prayed to creeping reptiles-you could never do anything great, or understand
great things; but I. have a higher inspiration."
The young wakan man was incorrigible.  Hie resolved
to hazard the experiment, and his intentions were soon
noised throughout the village, with the additional information, that whoever would submit to the experiment,
was not only to escape uninjured, but be "wakan" like
himself.
It was not long before a superstitious, credulous, and
ambitious youth, unable to resist the influence of such
a motive, and lose the opportunity of becoming great
so easily, presented himself as a subject. The entire
village convened to witness the  novel  performance.
WVith much pomp and ceremony, uttering strange and
hideous sounds, and assuming  suchl postures  as the
inspiration suggested, the prophet proceeded to his
work.   The head was dexterously severed from the
263 
THE WAKAN MAN.
body, and thus far success was complete. But in spite
of all his inspired efforts, the spirit had fled with the
blow, and the young "wakan " retired in   sullen, shatnieful despair, to hide himself from the curse of an enraged
band, leaving the relations to the accustomed lamentations over the slain, instead of rejoicing that he was
made "wakaln."
A story of more recent date is told of a young girl,
who, in altercation with an associate, and in a fit of
passion, had dealt a deadly blow.
The deceased was a daughter of Black Whistle, a
morose and cruel Indian, who, in accordance with their
laws of honor, resolved on revenge.  In anticipation of
this, the girl, being an orphan, sought an asylum at the
house of a trader, who kept her secreted from the enraged father, until an opportunity offered of effecting an
escape to Wabashaw's village, where some of her relations resided.  She reached Red Wing's village (where
now is the pleasant civilized town of Red Wing), about
a hundred miles from where the tragedy was enacted,
and was still fifty miles from her destination.
While there, the father obtaining some clue to her,
set out in pursuit, with the determination of full revenge.
Succeeding in his plans, he was about to take her home
to sacrifice her on the grave of his child; but was
dissuaded by the interference of a white person, and he
then resolved to take her home and make her his wife,
or, in other words, his slave. Submitting to her fate,
she was a long time acting in this double capacity, enduring all the misery of his ill-treatment, and constantly
expecting that he would destroy her, when suddenly
she disappeared from the band, and no trace of her
could be found.
264 
THiE WAKAN MAN.
About this time there appeared at the village of Good
Road, on the St. Peter's, a young Indian boy, stating
that he had just arrived from the plains, and that on
account of the disappearance of buffalo, which occasioned
a great scarcity of provisions, he had come to their
village. Their hospitable natures gave him a kind reception, and ere long he became a great favorite. One
day, on a fishing excursion, he fell in with Black
Whistle, who related his grievances; inquiring if he
had seen the object of his pursuit, and expressing a
determination to shoot her, whenever she should be
found. The boy very coolly assented to the justice of
this intention, and stimulated him to a renewed pursuit.
lie then again became the guest of the trader, who, in
compliance with his request, was about to dress him in
white men's apparel, when it was discovered that he
was no other than the futgitive maid who had caused so
much excitement. This discovery caused her to leave,
and again join Little Crow's band, under the disguise of
a Winnebago, making known her wants in broken
Sioux, and seeking the protection of a noted brave, as
some, she said, had suspected her to be a Chippewa, and
threatened to kill her;  and she begged he would defend her in case her fears were correct. lIe could not
resist this strong appeal from a young and unprotected
girl, and promised that no hand should be raised against
her, and remain unrevenged.
The various disguises she had assumed, being well
noised around, even this protection  could not screen
her; and some of the people arriving from her last
home, she began to fear a discovery, and again disappeared, no one knew whither; and her retreat still remains a mystery. The determination and perseverance
12
265 
TIE WAKAN MAN.
iu so young a girl, and her well-devised plans of escape
fiom her murderous  pursuer, evince  a spirit rarely
found; and her history, if the sequel can be known, will
be, indeed, a romance in real l'e.
The attachments of the Indian women are ardent, particularly when their object is a "pale face;" and wo
to him who, taking advantage of her confidence, binds
more firmly the fetters of sin, and wins her to desert her
own people and the paths of virtue. Such instances are
not rare; but the judgment of Heaven will sooner or
later overtake him who incurs such guilt.
Virtue with them is not a dearly cherished principle,
and yet noble and happy exceptions there are of those
who will suffer death sooner than swerve from the instfnctive dictates of woman's nature.  An instance occurred at Little Crow's village, during the first winter I
spent in the vicinity, which illustrates this truth.
The chief had pledged his sister to one whom shie'di
not love, and with whom she refused all intercourse.
Mortified and  chagrined at being thwarted  in plats
which he had regarded certain, her lover planned and(
executed the base purpose of destroying her fair reputation. He willfully circulated insinuations against her
chastity, beneath which her sensitive spirit withered.
She could not endure the gaze of those who believed her
degraded as themselves, when her soul was pure as the
virgin snow.  She was a forest child; but one of the few
"who, without the law, are a law unto themselves."
Stung to the quick by the consciousness of a base
WRONG, her own purity was more sacred than ever.
As the inmates of her lodge were one night sleeping
around the center fire-all, save herself, who restlessly
tossed on her uneasy couch she slowly rose, emerged
2,66 
THE WAKAN MAN.
from the hut, and made her way through the trackless
snow towards the forest trees, to which the whistling
night winds seemed to woo her. The dim starlight
guided her onward.   One  moment, she paused  and
looked upward, as if she heard a whisper from the spiritworld. But she understood it not, or it would have
said, "SEE THOU DO IT NOT." Hier eye singles a tree,
and, heedless of the mournful winds which will soon
cease to affect her, the fatal knot is adjusted.   She
ascends; ties the kerchief to a limb; commits herself
to the Great Spirit; and a leap, a struggle, and she
suffers no more. Swaying to and fro in the wind, on
the following morning, her lifeless body was descried by
the distant villagers. A self-accusing conscience forced
a full confession from her accuser-her murderer.
267 
CHAPTER LII.
INDIAN CHARACTER AND HOSTILITIES.
IN many respects the Indian is an object of admiration,
but, as in many other cases, "distance lends enchantment
to the view." As an equestrian, he is free, easy and
graceful; his long hair floating in the breeze, and his
blanket adjusted as no white man could do it. As a
pedestrian, he is extremely dignified, strangely contrasting
with his wife, who, being the "burden bearer" from childhood, has always a stooping, ungraceful, undignified
gait.
Music has a wonderful power in taming the savages.
This will oft attract them to school or worship, when
all else fails: and they have clear, sweet, sonorous
voices. Indian John, or as he is sometimes called, the
"dandy" Indian, made frequent visits to my  school,
and often brought his hymn book, and sang in his own
tongue, with some of the pupils aiding him. An interest
was awakened, and he expressed a desire to become a
pupil. Though he was reported to have been the murderer of his own father, and several other individuals,
he was received, and his good behavior and studious
habits fully justified my course. Wholly absorbed with
his book, or some problem on the slate, the perspiration
would pour like rain drops from underneath his massive
and profusely ornamented turban, beneath which his
long braided hair was falling over his shoulders.  He
was below the usual stature, slightly lame, and aping
[26s] 
INDIAN CHARACTER AND HOSTILITIES.
the whites sufficiently to wear a dress coat; his whole
dress and demeanor fully entitling him to the cognomen
of" dandy."
Old Hock-e-wash-ta, whom everybody knows, has had
honorable mention in a former part of this work, It
at this point he claims still more attention. Never will
the audience forget the smile that was throned upon the
old man's features, as he burst into the room, on the
occasion of a public recognition of the Baptist Church,
St. Paul.  Ils garb seemed composed of all the odds
and ends of the cast off clothing of a century. He wore
as usual, his tall crowned hat, bits of paper, ribbon and
calico fastened to every point.  In his hand was a long
staff like the pilgrim's in the primer. The pastor had
iust concluded the ceremony of extending "the  hand
of fellowship," when this sudden vision appeared, and
with the usual guttural salutation "how how!" claimed
it his privilege also to shake hands. The place and
occasion rendered the scene most inappropriately ludicrous, and though told to " puck a chee," (retire) he
still kept on, and doubtless would have passed to all in
the house, had not the pastor mildly directed him to
a seat, where he remained until the close of the exercises,
a puzzled spectator of the proceedings.  But the old
man has gone, with his tribe, to their new home, and
perhaps ere this to the spirit-world.
It is only under the influence of strong drink that the
Indians become dangerously troublesome; then there
is no safety among them. I have known but few instances where sober, cold-blooded murder has been
perpetrated upon the whites on their own ground. Soon
after the last Sioux purchase, a small company were passinig up the country to their new location, and were scarcely
269 
270    INDIAN CHARACTER AND HOSTILITIES.
a day's drive from St. Paul. They had no apprehension
of danger until Mrs. Keener, the only woman, suddenly
fell with a mortal wound from an Indian's rifle. One
man was severely, but not fatally, wounded in the face.
T-e murderer, who was given up by his chief, assigned
no other reason for the deed, than that the white
husband was carrying the child, which  the woman
ought not to have permitted.  He was taken to St. Paul,
tried, and condemned.  A second trial was granted, and
finally after lying two years in jail, he suffered the
penalty of the law.
Another, and a very sad instance, occurred in the
spring of 1856, some ten miles above Fort Snelling.
A family residing on the banks of the Minnesota, had
adopted a little Chippewa girl, and their mutual attach ment had become very strong.  The child had forgotten
its native tongue, and not only the tribe but the rel atives had ceased to acknowledge her as belonging to
the nation.
At length, for several days the mysterious lurking
about of a company of Sioux, somewhat  alarmed the
few settlers whose claims were contiguous to each other,
and for mutual safety the females were spending a day
at the house of Mr. Ames, their husbands being at
work but a little distance from them.
The little dark-browed girl was sitting on the lap of
her foster-mother, when three ferocious looking Indians
entered, shook hands with all, approached the child
pleasantly, and offered to shake hands.  She shrunk
in affright, but encouraged by her foster-mother, who
already trembled with fear, she extended her little hand,
which was caught in a firm grasp, and in the twinkling
of an eye she was hurled through the open door, and 
INDIAN CHARACTER AND HOSTILITIES.
ere she struck the ground, several bullets from the rifles
of those who remained without, had passed through her
body.  The women  gave the alarm, but before  their
husbands could reach the house, the Sioux had disappeared with the reeking scalp of the innocent child,
who had been guilty of no crime, but that of being
born of Chippewa Darents.
The Indians are great gormandizers; it is their invariable rule to eat all that is set before them, and when
the make a feast, or when the hospitalities of the board
are extended to another, it is an unpardonable offence
for a guest to refuse whatever is offered, or leave any
portion of food uneaten. Dog meat, in their estimation,
is the greatest delicacy to set before a guest, and the
greatest honor to bestow, is to slay the favorite dog
for the feast.  Well may the Indian be indignant, if
such a luxury, prepared at such a sacrifice, is untasted.
To illustrate the quantity of food their stomachs are
capable of receiving, I barely cite one instance.  In the
early stage of settlement in St. Paul, a friend of mine
permitted an Indian to sleep in her kitchena and prepare
his food by the fire. Two large kettles were suspended
over the fire, one filled with potatoes, the other con
taining a quarter of venison. This, with a loaf of bread,
which his kind hostess had furnished, was all devoured,
and the liquor in which  the meat was boiled, drunk
at one meal. The Indians universally wear a girdle
about the waist, which is lengthened and shortened at
convenience. When very hungry, it is drawn very
tight, which is said to afford a great relief to the gnaw ings of appetite; thus they go much longer without
food than those who have not followed these teachings
of nature.
271 
CHAPTER LIII.
THE WINNEBAGOES.
THE Winnebagoes were once a powerful tribe, owning
some of the finest-lands embraced in Iowa and Southern
Minnesota; but war and the ravages of disease have re duced them to them to the mere remnant of three thous and.  These, in 1848, were removed to their new homes
on Crow-Wing River. Great dissatisfaction was soon ap parent, and many returned to their former homes, with a
determination to remain; and government having already
expended twenty-five thousand dollars in their first removal, rather than compel them to return at the point of
the bayonet, was at an additional expense of several
thousands, in accomplishing amicably the desired result.
Some of this tribe are very well educated in the Englishl language, and some there are who till the ground,
and have comfortable cabin homes, with stoves, beds,
chairs, and even carpets.
Baptiste, distinguished above most, and perhaps all,
others of his tribe, is on many accounts a wonderful man.
He is tall and majestic in person, with grace and dignity
of mien, an eagle eye, a lofty, intellectual brow, and is,
in short, a noble specimen of humanity. HIe converses
in twelve languages, and reads five fluently; has all the
virtues, and few of the vices, of the white man; is a
Freemason and Odd Fellow. In his frequent visits to our
capital, he stops at the best hotels, calls on our citizens
and the governor, with whom he holds long "talks," walks
[272] 
BAPTISTE.
~'l/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ ~ ~~~.~i~
ll,k  
THE WINNEBAGOES.
the streets with a proud step, arm in arm with his white
friends, sits in their parlors, drinks at their sideboards,
and deports himself as a gentleman. I first saw him in
church, where le had accompanied the accomplished
sister of Hon. II. M. Rice-a lady who has few equals
and no superiors, who remarked, in pleasantry, "that
she felt no little vanity in accepting such a distinguished
escort."  He wore a dark green blanket, and his keen
eye rested intently on the speaker, his thoughts evidently
digesting the subject.  As he passed from church, he
bestowed high encomiums upon the sermon, though he
probably profited little by it.
He is noted for pleasantry, and politeness to the ladies.
In short, he is one of nature's noblemen, capable of giant
strides in intellect, of scanning abstruse sciences, and
diving into nature's mysteries-a man who mighlt be a
blessing to his tribe and the world.
The spirit of insubordination continued long with this
tribe; depredations, and even murders, were committed
upon the whites residing in the vicinity, until troops and
volunteers were demanded for protection. The exchange
had not been a fortunate one; the climate was much
colder than they had been accustomed to; and though
game was more abundant, it was more difficult to obtain.
Their grievances being properly represented to'Congress,
a more desirable home was offered them in the Southwvest, and thither, satisfied, they took up the line of
march.
12*
2 l3 
CHAPTER LIV.
THE CHIPPEWAS.
THE Chippewas are a powerful tribe of Indians occupying the northern portion of Minnesota, between Lake
Superior on the east, and the Mississippi on the west.
They are less numerous than their enemies, the Sioux,
but better warriors. Their language, though sweet and
musical, is more difficult of acquisition. They seem, in
some particulars, less degraded than the neighboring
tribes, but far from being civilized. Though the majority
are blood-thirsty and revengeful, yet some have embraced
the principles of Christianity, and are living meek, selfdenying lives.
Their women are many of them noted for beauty, and
the fame of "the Queen" is extended amongst the whites,
as well as her own people. Her soft, raven hair falls
upon the ground as she stands, which, with her nicelychiseled features and sparkling black eye, renders her
peculiarly attractive. She is subject to less hardship
than the women of her tribe, having a home with a sister,
whose husband is a white man; and it is said that the
heart of many a white man has been led captive by her
charms, to whom she shows no favor.
Hole-in-the-Day, or Bag-on-a-ke-shig, the head chief
of the nation, is a brave warrior, with noble impulses of
heart, beloved by his people, and respected by the whites.
He is still a young man, and came into power at twentyfour years of age.  His father, also a chief, was distinguished by great bravery and prowess, and at the
[2T4] 
A; ~~< \     \
j 
~~;~> )\;
HOLE-IN-TEE-DAY.
#  
THE CHIPPEWAS.
time of his death could boast of thirty-six eagle feathers,
worn in his head-dress, each denoting an enemy killed
and scalped with his own hand. HIis son possesses much
of his father's daring; but a frail constitution, in which
the seeds of consumption are sown, gives evidence that his
career will be brief.
From time immemorial, with no tradition of its origin,
a feud has existed between the contiguous tribes-the
Sioux and Chippewas. The hatred has descended from
father to son, with its practical fruits, and though mock
treaties have been made, each party has only waited an
opportunity to secure an enemy's scalp, ere it was broken.
Rumors of depredations and murders were constantly
reaching the white settlements during their early history,
exciting anxiety and alarm, and rousing the injured to
revenge. The government forces at Fort Snelling were
commissioned with power to quell the troubles, whenever
amounting to an actual outbreak; but, unable to bring
the Indians under restraint of law, they were wholly inefficient.
From the cruel and bloody massacre in the spring, of
1850, on Apple River, when fourteen Chippewas fell vietims to the scalping knife of the Sioux, who lost not a
single man, it was evident there was no safety for either
party. The citizens looked for a general outbreak, and
expected that the scalps of the seventy who performed
their last war-dance in the village qf Stillwater, would
soon grace a similar occasion among the Chippewas.  A
month later, and a Sioux was surprised near Miendota
by five Chippewas, his scalp taken, and he left weltering
in his gore, that his friends might know who had done
the deed.  The murdered man was a son of Old Betseyo
of whom mention has already been made.,
275 
T'HEF CHIPPEWAS.
Now the spirit of the Sioux: was more desperate than
ever. The day succeeding this transaction was one of
continued excitement. St. Paul was thronged with enraged Sioux, whose hearts panted for revenge. The
"Dandy," quietly pursuing his studies in the schoolroom, understanding intuitively the movement of his
people, dropped his book, and in the twinkling of an
eye joined the war party in rapid pursuit of their enemies.
Soon after the company had passed, as many as fifty
warriors, full dressed, or, in more proper words, stripped
for battle, gathered round the school-room, their fifty
heads darkening the windows. Fear was visible on the
countenances of all; and as if to intimidate us still more,
every gun was fired, though in a contrary direction.
Shrieks of alarm arose from the children, many of
whom sought protection by burying their faces in the
folds of my (ress, while the Indians gazed with smiles of
gratification and evident malice. Thoug,h myself much
frightened, I feigned unusual courage, and even laughed
at their boldness and presumption.  I finally persuaded
them to leave by telling them that children's hearts were
not strong like ours! That night our streets were dark
with the long line of enraged men returning from their
unsuccessful pursuit for Chippewa scalps.
The evil had reached the height of endurance, and at
this crisis Governor Ramsey wisely made an effort for a
treaty, that, if possible, further grievances might be prevented. Some reluctance was manifested on both sides;
but the Sioux were particularly averse to a treaty.
Hole-in-the.Day, though a mere boy in appearance, was
a terror to the Dakotas, for he was a brave, undaunted
warrior, who had never retreated before a foe, but
276 
TIE CHIPPEWAS.
generally borne off in triumph many of the scalps of his
enemies.
In June, 1850, Hole-in-the-Day, with two hundred
noble-looking braves and chiefs, a small detachment of
United States troops, a few pieces of artillery, the governor, and many of the citizens of Minnesota, convened
for council just in front of the gate of Fort Snelling.
Here, in the scorching rays of the sun, they awaited the
arrival of the other party. At last, when the day was
far spent, and fears began to be entertained that evil was
at work in "the camp of the enemy," a single horseman
was descried in the distance. In breathless anxiety they
await his approach. The brief announcement is made
that the "Sioux would not be present until the morrow,"'
and he quickly disappears.
Stimulated with the hope of a long-desired peace, the
following morning all are again on the ground. The sun
has approached the zenith, and still they wait. A dark
cloud arises on the prairie; the sound of hoofs salute the
ear; and a long line of horsemen dash furiously onward
-their object, doubtless, to awe by their imposing appearance. Onward, with the fury of batt]e-horses, they
dash, until fully past the lines, when they wheel, discharge a volley of musketry, and, rifles in hand, dismount. The Governor required the rifles to be stacked
against the walls of the fort, and the council was opened.
After all were seated, and the pipe of peace smoked,
there was an evident uneasiness on the part of the Dakotas, and the insolent expression followed that "They
came to meet the Chippewas, not women, in council."
Governor Ramsey, justly indignant, replied that "they
were less fastidious at Apple River, where the presence
of women, and even children, proved n(  -bjection to
their cold-blooded massacre."
277 
THE CHIPPEWAS.
At this, Hole-in-the-Day, with the tact and forethought
of his nature, and unaffected affability, arose and said
that "IHe was glad to see so many sweet women there,
and they were all welcome, with their bright faces, on
his side of the council," at the same time shaking hands
with Mirs. Ramsey and others. I need not say that from
this time the ladies were all Chippewas. 
Hole-in-the-Day now, in the presence of his enemies
and the hundreds there convened, made the following
speech to the Governor:
"My  Father!-As  you have sent for me, I have
come.  I came at once, for the reason I thought you
would be here to enforce the treaty made by my father
,I ole-in-the-Day on this spot. I have always submitted to
wrong for a long time; my father always did so.
"Since the day our agents arrived among us, we, your
Ojibeway children, notwithstanding our many wrongs,
have kept the peace.  We consider it impossible for the
Dakotas to lift the war-club, under the eyes of their
Father, yourself, and the many whites that surround
them, to strike our unguarded young men and women
and children.
"Our Father, you know how we have been disappointed; and we hope that the blood of your Ojibeway
children shall not smoke up to the Great Spirit for yengeance in vain.
"Since our Great Father has sent you Sto watch over
your red children, a son of one of our oldest chiefs has
been killed by the Dakotas; and fourteen old men,
women, and children, while quietly making sugar on the
lands of their Great Father, wvere butchered in cold blood.
"We have complained to our agent, asking for redress;
but his answer to our complaints not being satisfactory,
278 
THE CHIPPEWAS.
and considering that redress was in our own  hands, we
prepared for war.  The war-club had gone the rounds of
the villages, and we were on the point of marching into
the enemy's country, when we received your message.
We came to hear your word, depending on your protection, and placing our welfare and interest into the
palm of your hand, knowing that you will accord justice
to whom justice is due.
"We, your children, wish for peace; but have made
up our minds to enter into no. future treaty until our
grievances have been atoned for, and the sore hearts of
the relatives of our own murdered friends have been
made whole."
Our limits will not allow us to enter into detail. Suffice
it to say, that at the expiration of three days, the longdesired peace was ratified; whereby all past grievances
were to be "sealed up," and future offences subjected to
trial by the laws of the territory. The pipe of peace was
again smoked, and. they shook hands, each with his former hated enemy, and rejoice.d in the prospect of the
cessation of bloody hostilities and the horrid war-dance
around the scalp of the murdered friend.
The council disbanded with evident satisfaction, thoughl
with   little distrust lurking in every countenance.
The judicious and wise management of Governor
Ramsey in effecting a treaty for the cessation of hostilities between these powerful nations, would alone have
crowned him with unfading laurels; and long will he live
in the affections of the tribes whose confidence he gained,
and be enshrined in the hearts of Minnesotians.
But more recently, hostilities have again commenced.
The treaty is buried: the tomahawk exhumed,- andcl the
279 
THE CHIPPEWAS.
unpunished murderer draws his reeking knife from the
heart of his foe.
When these tribes shall abandon the chase, lay aside
the blanket, and devote themselves to agriculture, then
their hostility may abate.' But not until letters and
religion have exerted their transforming power, will they
"learn war no more." The Indian in many particulars
has high and noble instincts. He hears the voice of the
Great Spirit in the rush of the waterfall, and the gentle
murmuring of the brook-; in the deep-toned thunder and
the evening breeze. He sees him in the forked lightnings and the dancing moonbeams; in the wild tornado,
and the noddingflower; and yet he grovels like the vilest
reptile and cares for nought but sensual indulgence.
The "leaven" is at work, and though many generations
may pass ere these tribes shall rank among the civilized
and redeemed nations of earth, they will surely do so,
"for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it "-" "all
nations shall call Him blessed."
280
4.. 
CHAPTER LV.
EXPLORATIONS OF THE MINNESOTA RIVER.
TirE knowledge of the valley of the River St. Peters,
as it was called, until the summer of 1850, was derived
only from missionaries, traders and  voyagers.   The
duties of the former afforded no time for minute investigation of its resources-nor did the latter render such.
accounts as induced immigration, and therefore no just
estimate of its real value could be formied.
The first exploration of the Minnesota River was made
by a company of pleasure seekers from St. Paul, who
chartered the "Anthony Wayne," and went  up and
returned on the same day, not ascending any considerable
distance, but gaining the credit of being the first to supersede the canoe in those unexplored waters.
The glory of this achievement created a desire and
spirited resolve on the part of citizens, to go "higher
up," and consequently the steamer "Nominee" a temperance Sabbath-keeping boat, was chartered for the purpose.
The state rooms were occupied entirely by the ladies,
while the gentlemen found sleeping quarters on the floor
of the spacious saloon.  Hearts were beating high as our
boat, after a short call at MAendota and Fort Snelling, for
an addition to our numbers, and for "the Band," turned
her prow into the dark waters of the Minnesota, where
but once before had the finny tribe been disturbed by- a
[2s13 
THE MINNESOTA RIVER.
like intrusion. A few miles up stream, we struck a sand
bar, and remained for several hours, during which time
we were visited by one of our sublime night showers, in
which as Jiennapin says, "the lightnings play upon the
ground."  A tree a short distance from us was rent by
the lightning into a thousand fragments. This was the
chief incident of the night.  In the morning religious
service was held in the ladies' cabin-in beautiful contrast to the savage whoop which resounded from the
shore.
The Minnesota forms "the line of beauty," meandering
through rich and varied scenery. Unlike the Mississippi,
it has few islands; indeed we passed none for fifty miles,
when in sounding a bend, a beautiful green isle appeared
"like a verdant spot in memory."  "What shall we call
that Island?" resounded across the hurricane deck, where
most of the party were congregated for a better view of
the lovely scenery.  "SMITH ISLAND!" cries one;
and "Smith Island!" shouted a score of voices.  Yeas
and nays were called, and the honor was unanimously
accorded to oar gentlemanly commander.
A  little beyond appeared its twin sister.  Again,
AlWhat shall it be called?"  "Nominee," was echoed
and reechoed, aud a vote decided in the affirmative.
The night rain had cooled the breath of summer, and
li,ght fleecy clouds  skimming  the  heavens, slightly
ob)scured the sun's disc; if all had been arranged with
special regard to our comfort, we could not have been
more entirely gratified.
The tables were furnished in a manner to gratify the
most fastidious taste, while mirth and humor, pleasant
and dignified conversation made up the sum of enjoyment.
One hundred miles attained, it was deemed prudent to
282 
THE MINNESOTA RIVER.
return. Some time was allotted for rambling on shore,
and seeking pleasures according to our tastes. Some
gathered bouquets from soil which few white men and
women had trod before, some examined the quality of the
soil: many could only exult in gazing upon the wild
scene which lay before them; while others crossed the
prairie, and ascending the bluff in the rear, obtained a more
extended view.  One ascended the huge tree to which
our boat was tied, nailing the inscription twenty feet
from the ground,
"STEAMER NOMINEE
July 11, 1850.
HIGHEST POINT."
Long before we were satisfied, the bell called all on
board, and our gallant and trustworthy steamer  was
wending her way down stream, almost with the swiftness
of a bird in its flight. The novelty of a " pata watah,"
which many of them had never seen, had drawn the
natives to the river en gmasse, on our upward course;
when the shrill scream of the whistle would start them,
and panic struck they would run over eaeh other pellmell, evidently terrified; then looking around, and discovering no cause of alarm, they would set up such a
chorus of laughter as made these solitary places ring.
Either to return our salute, or in mischievous retaliation,
they prepared a warm reception for our return, and at
every village, a whole volley of musketry was poured
upon us, several balls penetrating the sides of the boat,
and frequently passing very near individuals at whomn
they seemed to take deliberate aim, probably with "no
intent to kill," but with little concern for the result.
Thirty miles up this river, at this time, is Shakopee's
village, where is the mission station of Rev. G. H. Pond,
283 
THE MINNESOTA RIVER.
who with his brother, twenty miles below, has long
labored amongst the Indians.  Here also was the trading
post of Mr. Farribault, who occupied a comfortable white
house of good size, attached to which was a fine garden
of vegetables and fiuit trees. We enjoyed the pleasure
of a call at the mission house, and also a ramble through
the village. I cannot say that my views of the filthy
inmates of these lodges, for whom the man of God forsakes all the pleasures of civilized society, dooming
himself and those God has given him to obscurity and
privation of every kind, were materially changed.
Every lineament of his countenance tells the sacrifice he
makes! Again, in behalf of these toil-worn laborers
would I sayT, let those who think the missionary's an easy
life, spend one hour at his dwelling, and they will be
convinced that he "labors not for the meat that perisbeth."
The scenery here was devoid of boldness, the banks
low, stretching back in the finest prairies or in gradual
elevations, interspersed with the largest growth of timber
in the territory, consisting of oak, elm, cotton-wood, basswood, butterhut, ash, &c.  The soil was pronounced by
competent judges, of unsurpassed richness, and the finest
farming country in the West.    A  gentleman  well
acquainted with the Miami valley, said the resemblance
to it was striking. Occasionally a bold bluff with a
rocky summit increased the variety, but there is very
little, if any waste land.
I had feasted on many a rich scene in Minnesota, but
this was unsurpassed. It was quite impossible to rid
one's self of the belief, that we were gazing on an old
country, deserted by its inhabitants, and its dwellings
demolished.
A few hours previous to the termination of our delight
284 
THE MINNESOTA RIVER.
ful trip, the gentlemen organized in convention, and sent
an invitation to the ladies, to a seat in the social hall.
Resolutions were adopted expressing high satisfaction in
the trip, and recommending as Government  policy, a
speedy treaty for the territory of the St. Peter's Valley.
Said one, "These lands ought and must be ours." There
was, however, no apparent wish to inveigle the Indian,
but to render a full equivalent. Several spirited addresses
were made; among the speakers was E. Rice, esq., a
worthy and talented attorney from St. Paul, Col. Todd,
late Minister Plenipotentiary to Russia, Rev. Dr. Williamson, of the Sioux Mission, and Judge Ewing, late
member of Congress from Indiana.* The whole was
happily conducted and met a very hearty approval.
The sun was just setting amidst clouds gold and purple,
when we arrived at Mendota; and twilight was closing
upon us, as we set foot on shore at St. Paul, better satisfied with this excursion, than any previous one of our
lives.
We had been where no sign of human life appeared;
yet earth teemed with beauty, as if lavished for the
special enjoyment of mortals. I was forcibly reminded
of the words of another, on a similar occasion, "that
new adjectives must be coined before we could convey
any adequate ideas of this land."  "Beautiful, charming,
delig/tul, enchanting, enrapturing, overwhelmingly lovely,
yes, the whole vocabulary might be exhausted, and the
half remain untold."
The "'Anthony Wayne," determined not to be outdone,
pushed her way in a second trip beyond the point reached
by the " Nominee," and anticipating the" Yankee." raised
an inscription, "COME ON YANKEE!"  No less:ntrepid
* Since deceased.
-285 
THE MINNESOTA RIVER.
than those whose namne she bears, this enterprising little
boat could not brook such defiance, and named her turning point "Yankee Bend," a few miles above the mouth
of the Blue Earth river, and about one hundred and fifty
above St. Paul, and triumphantly brought back the
"shingle" of the Wayne, to which was appended " TE
YANKEE DID COME IT.'"
At Traverse des Sioux, the missionaries and their families were invited on board, and the hospitalities of the
boat accorded them, with an invitation to join in the
voyage of exploration.  High up the river is "Cotillion
Prairie." so named by a party who left the boat to "trip
the light fantastic toe" on the green sward-aping the
customs of those whose soil they invaded. No sound of
"merry viol" aided their "poetry of motion," but several
bands of native musicians were present and quickened
their movements by the tunes of "double quick steps,"
and as such music could not be gratuitous, it was followed
by the presentation of bills.  Thinking the demand quite
too exacting, the pleasure seekers beat a retreat, but the
brief acquaintance was all too impressive to admit of such
speedy separation, and the musicians accnmpanied them
to the boat.
The "Yankee" passed a few miles up "Blue Earth
River," the first considerable branch of the St. Peters, and
discovered some traces of coal.  The Red Stone quarry,
of which the Indian pipes are made, is located somewhere
in this valley. It is the only one known in- the world,
and its location has been unknown to the whites until
recently.  A slab of it was sent as the Minnesota contribution to the Washington monument.
There yet appeared no obstacle to further progress but
the wood and coal were consumed, the weather excess
286 
THE MIINNESOTA RIVER.
ively warm, the ice exhausted; and many of the ladies
becoming  sick, a vote of the passengers decided on
returning. Wood must be procured, and both crew and
passengers made alive the green old woods, with sound
of ax, saw, and whatever instruments of power could
be obtained. While some were thus engaged, an elderly
gentleman from Michigan wandered off in quest of
enjoyment, ascended a bluff a mile distant, and being
much fatigued lay down to rest, and to use his own words
"was just settling into an unconscious snooze," when the
sound of the bell pealing through the woods, brought him
to his feet, which were put in active requisition. For
a while he quite despaired of rcaching thc boat, and found
it no very enviable mental exercise, to resign himself to
his fate; without ammunition or any means of procuring
food, and not even in the vicinity of an Indian village.
Redoubling his exertions, he gained the landings just as
the Yankee had shoved off, and was taken on board by
the small boat.
The "Pioneer" remarks in reference to these explorations:. "We have deemed the exploration of the Minnesota river an object of primary importance on several
accounts. As citizens of St. Paul, lying but five or six
miles below the junction of the Minnesota and Mississippi rivers, the natural and inevitable point of transhipment from the larger steamboats'running below, to smaller
boats of different construction adapted to the navigation
of the rivers above us; we wished to know, and that the
world should know, that the navigable waters above us,
tributary to our trade, irrigate an extent of land as great,
and at least as fetile, as the whole length of the Mississippi
from St. Louis to St. Paul. All this has been demonstrated."
. 287 
CHEAPTER LVI.
PURCHASE OF THE SIOUX LANDS.
REPRESENTATIONS  having been made  to Congress,
relative to the intrinsic value of the Minnesota Valley,
negotiations were soon authorized; and in as little time as
possible, to all of the Sioux lands bordering on the -Aississippi, the Indian title became extinct.
There were ties to bind the red men to their old homethe graves of their fathers and the ashes of their council
fires; still they were not long reluctant to a treaty, and
in less than thiree years from the time the first steamer
plowed the waters of the Minnesota, its whole beautiful
valley was under Government survey, and the cabins of'
"squatters" were dotting the fertile soil.
The former occupants had passed on, and the eastern
boundary of their present territory is the Red Wood River.
When again the Indian shall take up his line of march,
his wigwam will be built beneath the shadow of the Rocky
Mountains, and he will start at the sound of the snorting
fire-horse as it passes on its route to the Pacific.
The preparations of Government  for removing the
Sioux to their new home, and the attendant arrangements
for military defense of the frontier, combined profit with
convenience and pleasure, and accomplished at public
expense what private enterprise had not done. The people, since the "Yankee's" ascent in 1850, had greatly
desired- further explorations of the Minnesota valley, "but
the region being unknown to boatmen, and the risk of
[288]
4 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
running so high amid serpentine windings, labyrinthine
dells, entanglements of heavy timber and undergrowth,
being considered very great," as no business called in that
direction, mere pleasure would not justify so great an
expense.
The steamer West Newton, one hundred and fifty feet
in length, Captain D. S. Harris, was chartered by Captain
Dana, of the Quartermaster's department, to make a
pioneer voyage, for the establishment of a new Fort on
the frontier. She left St. Paul on one of the last days in
April, 1853. Never was a more hopeful, joyous group,
than was convened in the ladies' cabin. In relation to
this, Mr. Owen, of the Minnesotian, who was one of the
passengers, says:
"Our number is small, and those composing it of the
most agreeable and intelligent character. With usjourney
the veteran pioneer of the American penny newspaper
press, Moses Y. Beach, and his agreeable lady, accompanied by their traveling companion, Miss Hlobbs, an English lady of education and brilliant accomplishments, and
withal one apparently specially sent to enliven and add to
the charms of a journey in the wilderness. Then we have
the lady of Captain Hiarris, a proficient in, and an enthusiastic admirer of, the natural sciences, which is of great
advantage to us in our researches among the soil, rocks
and plants of the Upper Minnesota. She has as her guest,
a well known St. Paul lady, whose enthusiasm for pioneering, and being the first white woman to set foot upon
this and that remote out-of-the-way place, is proverbial.
Captain Dana, to whose energy and determination we are
indebted for having so commodious a boat for the trip,
with several other of the United States Arnry, and sixor eight other gentlemen, complete the list. A very
13
289 
PUROIIASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
excellent and desirable company, neither too large nor
too small."
At Fort Snelling, two companies of infantry, with
their effects, were taken on board, which were to form a
part of the garrison at the new post. " Soldiers and soldiers' wives, and soldiers' children-soldiers' stores and
soldiers' equipments-soldiers' cattle and soldiers' dogs,
were huddled together and strewn about the boat from
engine-room to' Texas.'"'
The river is at this time high, some thirty or forty feet
above low-water mark, the bottom lands all under water.
The prospect is fine, the air bracing from the hills, and
no one can stay pent up in the cabin.  Every eye is open,
every heart beating rapidly in rich expectancy.
Our noble steamer plows "like a thing of life" the turbidwaters.  We pass Bloomington, a clean, tidy looking
place, with farms opening all around, and evincing that
the rich soil has passed from savage to civilized hands.
The mark of the pioneer is apparent all along the shores.
The boat first rings her bell at Shakopee, a town six
months old, thronged with busy life.  "Quite a difference
this," says Mr. Owen, -" since 1850, when boats used to
land in front of the Indian village just below, and all
were compelled to pay tribute to the old beggar chief, from
whom the town is named, who rigidly enforced his'custom house' regulations, backed by his young men as tide
waiters and executors of the requirements of a revenue
police generally."  We now find here the proper elements
for a go-ahead town. This is some twenty miles from the
mouth of the river.
A few hours, winding among the stately trees of theverdant banks of the stream; and a broken shaft gave all
the privilege of a long stroll on shore.  Hard by our
290 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
landing was a " claimant's cabin," framed and of respectable size. Thinking the "lady of the house," in such an
isolated situation, would not be averse to a call, even from
strangers, we rapped at the half-open door, where with
mutual surprise on meeting some old St. Paul friends, we
salute each other; but the " lady" was not there. Three
young men were keeping house, or rather the house was
keeping them, and they assured us that we were the first
white women that ever trod that soil.  We found no little
theme for pleasantry, in their manners of life, their household arrangements, &c. The one spacious room was the
apartment for all domestic operations, and served as shop
for various trades, if we could judge by "the workman's
chips."  The declaration, "It is not good for man to be
alone," was forcibly impressed on our minds as we surveyed their premises, and saw the need of the renovating
hand of woman inll their cheerless looking abode.
Thence we strolled to the table lands above the bluff,
and sat down on the shores of a miniature nameless lake,
which, in honor to the afore-mentioned English lady, we
named Lake Frances. To my lady readers it will not be
an uninteresting fact, that the "brilliant accompishments"
of this lady so wrought upon the heart of our editor, that
he deemed the one week all too short, and felt that one
who could so cheer and enliven the wilderness could bring
sunshine to the domestic circle. Hence she became the sunbeam of his home-the companion and solace of his heart.
"Paper towns" are numerous on the river banks, but
make verv little show on land. Henderson claims some
notoriety, and well it may, for its complete inundation at
that time deserves special attention.  All we could see
was an immense wood-pile, on which a lonely looking
man, conspicuously clothed in red flannel, had sought
291 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
protection from wet feet; and a miserable hut, the roof
and chimney being barely above water. It must, however, have some advantages, for it now claims to be a
"right smart town," and a very well conducted paper is
published there.
Le Seur impressed us as a very eligible site, and some
improvements by way of town making were evident, from
the skeletons of buildings which were then to be seen.
At Traverse des Sioux, the whole population, white
and red, turned out to welcome the Newton. The Indian
village was broken up, but an encampment was there,
and about twenty neat white dwellings contrasted smilingly with the verdant prairie, and energetic citizens were
astir in every department of business. What a change
had two years wrought! Then many hundred Indians
were assembled in Council with the Governor and Commissioners, for the disposal and purchase of this beautiful
valley. It was during the pending of this treaty, on the
bright morn of the glorious FOURTH, that Rev. Mr.
Hopkins found, while bathing in the river, a watery
grave. In his death the world sustained a severe loss, for
he was a good  man, and wholly consecrated to the work
of missions.
Mankato, one hundred and fifty miles up the river,
claims to be recognized as a town, and a long call to wood
gave us an ample opportunity to see how the "land lay."
We found here our old friends, P. H. Johnson and wife,
in their spacious log-house, "alone in their glory," and
never relished a meal more than the one to which.we
were here invited. The nice ham and eggs, the beautiful
biscuit, the duck-stew pie, the golden sponge cake, and
pure spring water, were all such as might tempt the most
fastidious palate.
292 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
Our progress was slow, owing to the heavy load and
time lost in turning the numerous beads. Above the
mouth of the Blue Earth the river becomes narrower, and
its windings increase.
We were now upon waters new to all our party, the
"Tiger" preceding us only a few hours, and felt in reality
that we were without the bounds of civilization. But we
were in an ecstacy of admiration.  The men declared the
soil to be the richest they had ever seen, the trees larger
and more numerous, and the river more  "snakishly
twisted about and contracted."
There were occasionally strong indications of iron ore,
and some slight signs of coal.  Snags and sawyers, the
accumulation of ages, filled the stream, and as we tied up
for the night the Indians fired a "salute of welcome."
Early the third morning we are again under way, pass the
Tiger, which was "lying to" to wood, all hands making
the woods resound with the sound of ax and saw. This
point was very appropriately named "Tiger Bend."
We now exulted in being the first explorers of this
meandering stream, and every mile of progress into the
wilderness of silence increased our admiration. The perfection of beauty was over all! I
Once we saw some Indians in the distance, and once
we spoke with a trapper with his pack of furs by his side,
more than fifty miles from human habitation. With
these exceptions we saw not a vestige of human life for
more than one hundred miles.
No language can paint the emotions, when, so remote
from settlements, an ample sized and comfortable abode
appeared in the distance; or our surprise when, going
ashore, we accosted a company of Indian women and
half-breed children, and were answered in English; nor
293 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
was our surprise diminished when we reached the house
and found it comnfortably furnished.
"The site of Little Rock is a bold point, forming the
extreme inner angle of one of the great bends of the river,
which is skirted on either side with level and rich prairie
land, extending back a half a mile to the bluffs. The
point is covered with huge granite rocks, some the size
of medium dwelling houses."
It was the.trader and his family, with others, who had
come down to welcome our arrival-his long cherished
wish to see a steamer at his door now realized. He chose
this position, so beautifiul and commanding, in 1838. The
land about is of the best quality, as the well cultivated
fields and the springing grain gave evidence. Thrift and
comnfort marked all we saw at and around the trading
post of Joseph La -Frambeau, and "Little Rock" has
sinc;een plotted by the surveyor and the foundation of
a town laid.
We proceeded to our destined point, some six or eight
miles beyond, and here Nature had been l avish of-beauty.
On these uninhabited shores, where the dying embers of
the council fire still smoked, and where but a few days
since the war-whoop resounded, some two hundred United
States troops were landed to erect a defence against the
encroachment of the Indian.' A strange confusion of
bales and boxes, and every kind of "plunder," mingled
in the scene.
A  solitary Indian approached, and with folded arms
and speechless tongue watched the operations of the soldiers, and with inquisitive glance looked at the many
barrels as they were rolled on shore. When the soldiers'
tents were pitched, their camp-fire built and camp-kettle
hung thereon, our visitor slowly and sadly ascended the
294 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
bluff and disappeared in the distance. One suggested
that he was doubtless reflecting on the probability or improbability of obtaining something to eat; another thought
he was wondering whether or not the barrels contained
whiskey, and in what possible way he could obtain some.
But we thought of his tribe, once dwelling on those pleasant lands-of his loved ones' graves, and all the tender
associations of home and country, and we doubted not
his thoughts were like our own, and hence originated the
following effusion:
THE LONE INDIAN.
tNot a word he spake, not a gesture made,
As he. gazed on the passing scene;
But he folded his arms across his breast,
With proud and majestic mien.
The warrior's plmne is adorning his head,
The fire of the brave in his eye,
His pallid lips are together pressed,
Nor kindred, nor friend is nigh.
Closely with grace his blanket he drew
As he thought of the white man's skill;
But he mastered each muscle of face and form
With an Indian's iron will:
For surely no good was tokened to, him
In the scene that was passing around;
For the strong defence of the white man's walls,
Would rest on his hunting ground.
Hie looked cn the graves where his fathers slept,
On the spot where his teepee had stoodOn the stream where glided his light canoe
*  And the wild deer coursed in the wood;
295
0 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
And never again to his vision would seem
The sky so bright and fair,
Or earth be dressed in such beauty and green,
Or so pure and serene the air.
The pale faces come, so potent in skill!
His own race were dwindling away;
The remnant doomed, how brief the hour,
They might on their hunting-ground stay.
And sadly, oh sadly, his spirit was stirred,
For life was bereft of its charmsSince these flower-clad plains and crested bluffs
Were marked for the white man's farms.
And closely, more closely, his blanket he drew,
More firmly his lips compressed;
And stronger he folded his brawny arms
O'er his painfully heaving breast.
His eagle eye had divined the scene  The river and plain he has crossed;
And he climbs the bluff, and, westward away,
He is soon in the distance lost.
The following morning we roamed through natural
parks and flower gardens, and snuffed the pure air of the
ptirie, until our being seemed possessed with  a new
inspiration, and our spirit scarce communed with earth.
High upon a bluff overlooking the scene of the busy
soldiers and boatmen, so high that the distant hum
of a hundred voices scarce reached my ear; with tall
trees gracefully waving their long arms above my head,
and flower nodding all around, I sat down alone to meditate.   There is, kind  reader, a spell, a  charm, an
indescribable, unanalyzed something about this fair
land, unknown in the seats of classic lore; in fashion's
halls; in cities' crowded marts; and which is peculiar
296 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
to Minnesota.'Tis not the name, but it is a spirit
emanating from the Creator's presence.   Under such
influences I sat down to meditate.
"What  a country is ouirs!   hIow  vast and inexhaustible in resources; yet, comparatively few know
anything of its intrinsic value; its innate, undeveloped
wealth, its glorious scenery, and unparalleled beauty!"
Then my  mind ran off towards  the rising sun; for
memory still lingers around the scenes of my early home,
and the loved ones there!  The heart clings to its
rooted loves.  The sacred ties of home are always hard
to sever; but when transferred to a home on this noble
soil, there is scarcely anything of sufficient potency
to weaken them.  Trials but rivet the chain; and time
imparts strength to the principle.
I have never so forcibly felt the magnitude of our
national glory, the extent of her resources, or the vast.
ness of the field for the development of her energies,
as when giving free scope to contemplation amid scenes
like those described above.  I have never so felt my
soul glow with enthusiasm, with the faet that I am  an
Americanr woman, as in scanning the vast field whiel
thie West ipresents for the exercise of our best faculties,
for effort and expansion.
My  spirit's sweet communion  was broken  by  the
growl of the Tiger, which, panting and puffing,  was
nearing  the  bend  below.  Half  doubting  my  own
identity, or the fact of having any connection with
ihumanity, and with one long earnest gaze upon the
rare scene, I descended to the river. Hiere I found my
friends surrounded by a troop of Indians, to whom our
proceedings —were as novel, as was their appearance to the
ladies, who, for the first time stood amid such a company
297 
PURCHIIASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
Several valuable trinkets of their own manufacture,
and worn by them, were purchased from the natives,
and generous presents bestowed by our company, made
bright with gladness the countenances of those who
received them, the less fortunate ones looking sad and
displeased. And we, who had no jealous husbands in
the way, were half inclined to fall desperately in love
with a handsome, noble looking young brave, who excited the envy of his comrades by the numerous presents
he received.
But the bell calls "all aboard," and the few who
return, make their regretful adieus to white friends and
Indians, and are soon hurrying down the rapid current.
The abrupt bends, and now the strong wind, send us
hither and thither, now dashing into the woods, now
smashing down trees, till at last we are fast, not to the
land, but in a mass of trees, where we remain twentyfour hours; the wind blowing a perfect hurricane. At
last there is a calm, the boat "fires up," and at twilight
we are tied up, woodless, at the point known as
Cameron's Graves  It was "holy time," but after being
pent up in the cabin all night, so long without exercise,
we could not resist the temptation to a stroll on shore
the next morning. It was a beautiful wildwood that
adorned that high bluff, and we ascended to its summit
watching the shaded waters, and the golden-edged
clouds until the night dews admonished us to descend.
The woods were gleaming with torch lights, and the
echoes of many axes were ringing through them.
The following day excitement ran high; so large
a boat in so narrow, rapid, and serpentine a stream,
might have encountered serious difficulties with any
other than Captain Harris at the helm. His careful,
298 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
quick, discerning eye, saw everything at a glance, and
made all hi, calculations with a lightning velocity of
thought; so that we struck no snags, collapsed no flue,
and burst no boiler; though we did tear off the guards,
throw down the pipes, and leave the cabin maid's-washing
of linen "high and dry" on a tree, which bent down to
receive the line.  This trip alone, would entitle Captain
Harris to a wreath of fame.
We tied up next a few miles above Traverse, and
learned on our arrival there the following morning, that
the little community on  the previous  evening, was
thrown into a state of great excitement and confusion.
A young man, named Starr, had several months before 
made a claim in the immediate vicinity, improved it,
and left on business. Three brothers, named Kingsley,
arrived in his absence, and though warned by the people
to desist, they tore down  his cabin, built their own,
and made all their arrangements as if they had a right
so to do.  Starr returned, and knowing that both law
and justice would sustain him, adhered to his right.
The Kingsleys determined to drive him  off, and not
effecting it otherwise, this evening had shot him; though
then alive he died in a few days.
The citizens were unanimous for hanging or shooting
themurderers forthwith. They had not been organized
into a county; no magistrate was yet appointed, and
to wait the tardy movements of law, the guilty men
might escape from justice.   The missionaries remonstrated against putting them to death, and therefore the
people burned their cabins, shaved their heads, and with
the savage "cat-o'-nine-tails" whipped them at the post,
until they begged for death, and the last man of the
thirty  engaged  in  whipping  them  was  exhausted,
299 
PURCHASE OF SIOUX LANDS.
They were then sent adrift in a canoe, to live if they
could, and under penalty of death if they should return.
How plainly government is an ordinance of God the
present improved condition of our territory, in contrast
with its then unorganized, lawless state, attests.  May
we duly prize our blessings and be grateful.
The achievement of the "Newton" was hailed with
acclamations of joy, by the people of St. Paul, and the
territory generally; and never will any who were on
board, recount the events of that week, but with feelings
of inexpressible satisfaction, and a conviction that the
half of what their eye had seen had not been told.
300 
CHAPTER LVII.
LAND TRIP THROUGH THE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
DURING the summer of 1856, our territory was visited
by Rev. B. MA. Hill, D.D., Corresponding Secretary of
the Baptist Home Mission Board, for the purpose of
ascertaining its religious aspects, and investigating its
spiritual wants. For this he traveled nearly six hundred
miles in various directions, and mostly by land, following the routes of the principal thoroughfares; thus having more ample field for observation and study.
It was my good fortune to be one of the carriage
party, in his tour through the Minnesota Valley, together
with Rev. A. M. Torbet and Mrs. Lyman Dayton; and
to the courtesy of the latter, we were all indebted for
the rich and rare feast of enjoyment.  Her elegant carriage would have vied with many of Broadway; but
was not at all unsuitable to the smooth, hard-beaten
roads of the level prairies.
It was an oppressively warm afternoon, in midsummer, that the spirited western steeds were headed " up
country," promising us an opportunity of " sight-seeing"
on land, in a direction we had only traveled by the
river. After crossing the river, at Fort Snelling, the
prairie presented no striking variations, and nothing
new greeted the eye, until we approached the timber,
about seven miles above, when a church spire loomed
up in the distance. This we subsequently learned was
erected by Rev. S. W. Pond, formerly a missionary to
~-      [soi1 
LAND TRIP THROUGH
the red man; and here a few scattered sheep weekly
gather, and the word of life is dispensed.
The scenery is now varied with rich woodlands,
through which a small winding stream is coursing its
way. The golden tints of closing day are reflected from
prairie, river, and woods, as we cross to the south side of
the Minnesota, at that delicious hour when Nature,
hushed to rest, sheds a subduing influence upon the
heart. So smooth and shorn did the distant bluffs appear, with the dark shadows in the deep ravines, that Mr.
T. suggested that "some Indian maiden must have
passed over them with her broom."
We were not prepared to see the tokens of improvement, thc opened farms, fields of ripening grain, and
neat farm houses scattered all along our route, on soil
where but three years previous, the red man's teepee
had stood, and the "Indian lover wooed his dusky
mai"d.
Dark clouds gathered in the heavens, big rain drops
come pattering upon our carriage, and night closed
around us; but we were not far from Shakopee, as the
lights from its numerous casements indicated; where we
found comfortable quarters at the " Wasson Hiouse"a far better house in all its appointments than would be
expected in so new a town. Only six years before we
stood on the ground of this embryo city, walked through
the Indian village, visited the house of the missionary,
and placed its present advance in civilization at least
i a century in the future.
A refreshing sleep, an early breakfast, and we were
agin on our way; a bright sun and smiling earth imparted buoyancy to the spirits, and we determined to
proceed. A group of Indians, seated in a circle on the
302 
THIE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
ground, with white eagles' feathers weaving from every
head, was a novel sight to the Doctor. They were en
route for Washington, being delegated by their band.
The country, as we advanced, became much diversi fied, and some portions really picturesque, which, with
the magical workings of improvement, elicited constant
ejaculations of surprise and admiration.  Living streams
of purest water, ever and anon, crossed our way, inviting
the thirsty beasts to drink, and we (the ladies), on such occasions, became pedestrians, and greatly did we relish the
exercise, often distancing the carriage so far as to have
ample time to gather boquets and wild fruit which grew
along our way.
Once we rested at the door of the "Jordon House;"
politely entertained by its loquacious owner, who gratuitously imparted to us, from his vast fund, much information respecting this beautiful and fertile region.  The
"house" is a small cabin, of two rooms (at least we saw
no more), on the confines of the most beautiful prospects
ever spread before the eye of man.  Riding along, we
passed over a high prairie, descending on either side.
On the one hand was the Minnesota, with its wooded
bluffs of varying forms, on the other, woodlands of
richly varying green.  For ten miles the view was one
of extreme loveliness. On the margin of a heavy belt
of timber we halted at the door of a cabin, and the rap
was responded to by a hale frontier man, who was takinghis noon repast.
"Can you tell us, sir, where we are?" was the first inquiry of our party.
"In the territory of Minnesota, sure," was the promptresponse, "and on the road to muost any place beyond
here." 
303 
LAND TRIP THROUGH
"But what means the bad road over which we last
came; we feared that we were on the wrong track?"
"Only changed its course, by fencing a field. You
may be sure you are right."
"Right for La Seur?"
"Yes, or any other place."
"Any chance for dinner on the route?"
"Your best chance will be at the Frenchman's, as you
enter the big woods."
"How far is it, there, pray?" for our appetites were
becoming somewhat whetted by the bracing air.
"WVell, about six miles."
A consolation, this, to hungry men and women; but
we had all, before this, learned to make "a virtue of
necessity," and now rejoiced in the fact, that it was no
further. Our horses, too, seemed to smell the dinner
afar off, and pushed past the emigrant wagons, cabins,
and farm houses, with renewed ambition. We admired
"Bell Plain," notwithstanding our eagerness for dinner.
Again we call to inquire the distance; and some tempting melons, by the proffer of still more tempting lucre,
find their way into our carriage, and are very refreshing
as we journey on.
The "Big Woods" in the distance I- At length "the
Frenchman's" cabin is indistinctly visible through the
foliage.  We hailed it as the harbinger of-refreshqment,
and sat down amid the dirt, "with sweet delight;" but
there was a well-filled table, with a good French cook.
Three immense beds and a cradle composed the furniture of the sitting-room; and wearied as we were, we
would sooner have thought of an hour's repose beneath
those mammoth  trees, than on such a mountain of
feathers.  Our gentlemen rested upon the "soft side" of
.304 
THE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
the floor, with shawls for their pillows, while we strolled
in the dark shade of the green woods.
"Twelve miles through the woods," declared one of
our party, as we were again seated in our carriage.  I
have always loved the woods  the warbling of its songsters, the hum of its many insects, and the mournful
cadence of the breeze in its deep recesses. And so absorbed was I in this rich feast, that I scarcely noticed the
many windings and twistings of the road, or the numerous stumnps, of an undesirable height, standing in close
neighborhood to each other, and occasionally in no desirable proximity to the carriage.
Tiny lakes smiled amid the foliage, and the smoke of
the emigrant's camp fire, and the white canvas of his
wagon, enlivened the way.
The sun was casting his golden rays horizontally
through the dense foliage, when deep-muttered thunders
gave warning of the approach of one of our sublime summer showers.  Strong trees were soon bending beneath
the blast, and interlacing their long branches overhead,
and in strong contrast with the black clouds, the lightning flashed vividly. Approaching a stream, a fallen
tree intercepted the way; and as this was no uncommon
occurrence, where the course of the road had been
changed, we concluded, without investigation, to turn
into the slight wagon track to the right. We proceeded
about two miles without a sign of human habitation;
and finally we hail with joy, the sight of the rudest
specimen of a cabin. Our Reverend Doctor raps at the
door; no answer is returned; a slight push and it flies
open, but reveals no inmates, though signs of its having
been occupied are visible. The rain is now dripping from
every part of his garments as -he enters the carriage, and
305 
LAND TRIP THROUGH
proclaims this the terminus of the road.  It may have
rained as hard-it may have rained harder, in Minnesota,
but never "within the memory of the oldest inhabitant;"
and those old woods never echoed the gushings of more
cheerful spirits than now, while we retrace our winding"
way.
The deceptive tree which drove us from the track, had
been prostrated by the wind but a few moments previous
to our reaching it, as we subsequently learned from a
wagoner who was a little in advance of us. A few moments sooner and we might have been crushed by the
fall! A fine road across the fordable stream, soon took
us out of the woods, and La Seur appeared to our anxious
view.
The horses were reined up to the door of the "I hotel,"
but neither landlord, hostler, or any other useful appendage to a frontier tavern, was "at home;" and being
informed that there was a comfortable house at "Upper
ILa Seur," one- mile beyond, we soon found ourselves
around the well-filled, wholesome board of an old St.
Paurite.  The cabin in the woods, on which we had
unceremoniously intruded, proved to be the property of
our La Seur landlord; so absolution was granted without
severe penance.
We drove from La Seur with light hearts, refreshed
ir:p;irit and body.  The atmosphere was cooled by the
ni ht rain, and there was no dust on the smooth prairie
road.  Our eyes were continually opening on the new
beauties and rare excellencies of the country, which had
been already well appreciated, and hundreds of acres were
smiling With the golden harvest.  Surely the Minnesota
valley is the great agricultural region of the north-west.
There is no language which can convey an adequat6
306 
THE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
impression of its vast resources. The possession and
improvement of all this rich valley, resulted, in a
great measure, from so trifling a cause as the chartering of the "Nominee" for a pleasure trip, by St. Paul
citizens.
The progress of Traverse has been slow in comparison
so that of some of its younger sisters; but it smiles still,
amid enchanting scenery, and is an inviting spot for
quiet rural homes.
The young city of St. Peter is distant one mile from
Traverse, a school section intervening, and is making
rapid strides in settlement and honorable distinction
among the cities of the north-west. A more definite
notice of this unrivaled young city seems to be here
demanded.
The original site of the town was " claimed" by
Captain Dodd, in 1852.  The sagacity of George HIezlup,
esq. determined it as a most desirable point for a town,
and by him the original plot of St. Peter was surveyed
in 1854.  The first frame dwelling was erected the same
year, by Mr. Johnson, whose wife was  the first white
woman resident there. Let my reader remember, that
our visit was in less than two years from the time' of the
erection of the first house,  and now neat and tasteful
cottages, stores, and business blocks, warehouses, mills,
and a fine, substantial hotel, of stone, three stories high,
were scattered in admirable irregularity over that fair
site, in delightful  connection with the verdant, rolling,
ascending plain.  The  "St. Peter's Courier" is a wellconducted paper, published here.  The citizens- are of
the most desirable character-not the refuse of other
towns, but men and women of standing and influence,
who are bending all their energies to place the stamp of
307 
LAND TRIP THROUGH
maturity upon the youthful city, whose population, with
the close of 1856, numbers little less than one thousand.
The St. Peter's post-office is in the receipt of a daily
mail, and has five stage routes leading from it.  Every
one acquainted with the geography of the country cannot
but be impressed with the advantage of this over every
other point in the entire valley, as the great railroad
center of the territory. In less time than is required by
the cautious New Englander to deliberate on its feasibility, the westernized Yankee, with his double pressure of
steam power, will have built a road from Dubuque to St.
Peter, and the steam horse will have left the slow emigrant wagon far in the rear. And before the telegraph
wires will have conveyed the intelligence of its completion to the Atlantic coast, another, and yet another, will
be completed, and stock taken for connecting it with
St. Paul, St. Cloud, and various other points. This is
no visionary speculation, but the sober calculation of
reason, as deduced from observation and experience,
and an actual knowledge of the elements at work.  St.
Peter must and will be the'grand center for the Minnesota Valley trade-the St. Paul of the Minnesota River;
not a rival, but one of the two important towns of Minnesota.
Having seen'all the sights of town, and become confident of all above stated, we took a regretful leave, after
having secured a site for a Baptist Church, donated by
the landholders. It should have been before stated, that
a liberal policy has been pursued in relation to churches,
and a site is designated for each of the four leading denominations, Baptists, Presbyterians, Methodists, and
Episcopalians.
Our horses now felt the inspiration of being "home
808 
THE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
ward-bound," and we resolved to reach the five-mile
house, the most inviting in appearance of any in the
woods, though every house is open for the entertainment
of travelers.
In immediate proximity to the dwelling, the under brush had been removed, and majestic trees threw their
long shadows aslant the clean-swept yard, where flowers
grew and children sported; and a fine field of wheat,
and another of corn, at the right and left, testified to the
quality of the soil.  A  crystal spring issued from the
base of a giant tree in the rear of the house, and this,
made to pass underneath a trough, hewn from the trunk
of a tree, subserved the purposes of cellar, milk-room,
and pantry.
All the blithesomeness of childhood returned, and we
quite coveted a race with the squirrels, or to take wings
with the birdlings and soar to the topmost branches of
the tallest trees.  At supper we announced the fact that
we had been to the top of a tall tree-though, in fact,
it had fallen from its former estate, and we took a
horizontal direction amid its boughs. fHaving played
with the children, sported with the house dog, searched
out all the mysteries and beauties of the environs, till
wearied nature begged repose, we crawled beneath musketo
bars, into one of three beds, which, in a spacious room,
furnished accommodation for ourselves, with the mother
and five children, and sunk away to the refreshing shades
of dream-land, with nought to disturb our slumbers save
the snore of the many sleepers above, and an occasional
out-cry among the juvenile inmates of our room.
We learned that the family (and certainly one of
which Minnesota needcl not be ashamed) had been induced to emigrate from Indiana, by representations, as
309
, 
LAND TRIP THROUGHII
~7
they said, "from the pen of Miss," nor were
they a little surprised on learning that she had been the
guest of the previous night-one whom they had particularly desired to see, and to thank, for presenting the
inducements that brought them to their lovely woodland
home.
The dew drops glitter in the sun, like so many
diamonds; and we are early out for a refreshing draught
of pure air. Seated on a huge stump, abstracted in reflection, we were recalled to consciousness by a wellknown voice from the back door exclaiming  "Patience on a monument!"
"Thank you, Doctor! but it would have been vastly
more poetic to have descried a'wood nymph.'"
"Yes; but wood nymphs would have no necessity for
breakfast, which I have come to announce, and lest you
are actually changed to one I have ordered-the horses that
as soon as it is despatche[ we may be under way."
We could hardly decide on a preference between the
limitede foot rambles or the more extended sight-seeing
from the carriage.  The woods rang with native melody,
every leaf glittered with its sparkling dew in the early
sun, and our spirits seemed to hold communion with
the good and beautiful. All too soon we emerge into an
open country, and in the midst of interesting and animated
conversation we are admonished of the fact that we are
off the track. All, save our reverend driver, tried to
solve the mystery when and where we left the main
road: a close observer might have seen a twinkle in his
eye, and yet an air of uncertainty which left us no room
for query.  We  occasionally passed, or were in sight of,
a claim cabin, but no token of human life was any where
visible.
310 
THE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
After miles over this cart-road, we steer for a habitable
cabin, which appears in the distance.  The inmates are
"not at home," but a slight insight is obtained into their
domestic arrangements, revealing some of the characteristies of frontier life to the uninitiated of our party. Several
months later we are assured that this dereliction from the
right path was all a ruse on the part of -, acting
upon a desire to see that portion of the country which
we would not otherwise accomplish.  We concluded we
might safely recommend him for a topographical engineer. We had no further incidents worthy of record,
save that our horses undertook to explore the depth of
the mud beneath a corduroy bridge, and one became so
alarmingly lame that we feared his ability to reach home.
This was rather increased than diminished when we left
Shakopee the following morning, but nothing worthy of
note transpired until we were within a few miles of the
Fort, and passed the last stopping place. As if to add to
our dilemma, the patent wheels became fast, and no coaxing would induce them to turn. There was no alternative
but to return two miles to the neareslt horse. But in
view of our lame horse, and the immovable wheels, we,
with the obstinacy of most ladies, preferred to "go
ahead'"  There was not a shrub to afford a shade, nor
even a stone on which to rest, while the burning heat of
the sun was scarcely relieved by a breeze; but we walked
on between three and four miles, and hailed with delight
the sight of a fenced field. We took a rail from the fence
and sat down to real enjoyment, spiced with not a little
fun. While we were vigorously fanning ourselves with
our bonnets, two carriages drew near, in which we recognized the faces of friends, and finally we yielded t  their
311 
THE MINNESOTA VALLEY.
solicitations to ride.  Having crossed the ferry at the
Fort we await our party, forget our fatigue in the pleasing
rehearsal of various incidents, and arrive home, feeling
that the retrospect of the romantic trip would have been
incomplete without this last incident.
312 
CHAPTER LVIII.
SOUTHERN MINNESOTA.
SOUTHERN MINNESOTA is attracting much attention,
and thousands are annually finding homes-desirable
homes-on its fertile plains, the unentered lands of to-day
being occupied to-morrow.
This portion of our territory is said to be "rich in every
variety of soil and varied with every phase of surfaceforest, opening, and prairie. It is watered generally with
purer streams than we  have seen elsewhere.   These
streams, rising from and fed by springs which gush out
fiom almost every high locality, supply an abundance of
water-power, which the capital and energy of that section
are fast turning to account. On every hand saw and
fiouring mills are erected or are in progress. Villages,
which in the East would be the growth of a quarter of
a century, have sprung into existence within.two years,
and that without exceeding the wants of the adjacent
country. The whole section, when the recent extinguishment of the Indian title is considered, seems to the traveler a panoramic illusion, rather than the product of sober,
delving labor."
In 1854, Rev. J. R. Cressey commenced the labors of
an itinerant missionary in this section, when on his field
from Iowa line to the head of Lake Pepin, there were not
one thousand souls; six months later and the population
is eight thousand, and two years later it numbers more
than twenty thousand.
14 
SOUTHERN MINNESOTA.
The amount of lands entered at the Winona Land Office
is almost incredible. Two hundred thousand dollars have
been received in thirty days, at the rate of one dollar and
twenty-five cents per acre, and most of it preempted by
actual settlers.
The soil is of the first quality, all ready for the plow,
with sufficient timber for fencing and fuel. A squash
raised near Winona, weighed two hundred and twentyone pounds, and measured seven feet ten inches in circumference.   A  watermelon also weighed  sixty-four
pounds.
Several inland towns have sprung up in the Cannon
River Valley, which are rapidly increasing in wealth and
population.   Cannon  City, Cannon  Falls,  Northfield,
Lakeville and Farribault, are claiming most attention.
The latter is the county seat of Rice County, about fifty
miles from St. Paul, forty from Hlastings, and fifty from
Red Wing.   "The town site is onl a point of one of the
most beautiful and rich prairies of Minnesota. It is surrounded on three sides with a belt of the best timbered
land in the territory.  There is a daily line of stages established between this point and Hlastings, and also from
lied Wing to this place. The roads between these places
and Farribault are literally dotted with teams, conveying
wares and merchandise to different points in that vast
region; and the emigrant's wagon is to be met at frequent
intervals, freighted with the utensils and furniture required by those who are destined to convert the public
wilderness into a fruitful and remunerative private
garden."
"The population of this place is about twelve hundred
-a town built up without the powerful assistance of the
press, or any superfluous abundance of'gas.' A good
.314 
SOUTHERN MINNESOTA.
school is in operation, a Baptist Church has been organised, and the Gospel proclaimed by ministers of several
denominations.  Several stores are doing a good business, and several saw-mills are in active operation. By
the way, every pioneer of this new country regards the
saw-mill with no ordinary interest, for on it he is dependent for home comforts and the general. prosperity of the
country."
We are often lost in enthusiastic (not visionary) admiration of this noble, unequaled land! We wonder if
earth has a more perfect Eden! In its pure bracing at
mosphere, the invalid will ever find a panacea, a temporary relief; and the languid frame will be invigorated by
draughts from the pure fountains which gush from every
hill side.
Stand with me, gentle reader, upon some of those high
bluffs which skirt earth's mightiest stream, and you too
will confess this the garden of America. Beautifully
blended in one delightful panorama, are lake and prairie,
grove and stream, farms and farm-houses, villages and
cities! Or follow with me the windings of some ancient
trail, along the margin of those crystal lakes and streams,
there, where the dark shadows rest upon the waters, and
no sound but the insect's hum and the wood-bird's note
is heard, and  your  soul will instinctively feel  the
enchantment.
GOD  loves beauty; so all HIS works declare.   On
mountain top and in darkest caverns, it shows forth his
glory. In every land and clime it urges its votaries to
come and adore him. But no where does it exist in such
perfection as in the land of which I write!
Transplant New England institutions on our soil, and
we could ask no more. But we are rapidly approaching
,315 
SOUTHERN MINNESOTA.
a period when the WEST will no longer look towards
the rising sun for her educational light, nor longer shine
in borrowed rays, but will illumine the entire NATION
with her own brightness.
316 
0
CHIAPTER LJIX.
DARING OF THE WEST.
"IT is no doubt a beautiful country," says one, "but
then it is so distant, and your society is not what we of
the East are accustomed to."
Distance, my friend, is annihilated; a week will convey
you from St. Paul to any portion of New England: and
as to your last objection the preference is in favor of the
West-with all due deference to my native New England.
I love the East, but I glory in the West.  Opinions of
western life, as drawn from books, present but one phase.
True, there may be in them many pictures of real life.
But where in this abused world can you go, without meeting much that is repugnant to a refined nature-many
that are grossly ignorant, and even from preference? But
Minnesota has less than I have found elsewhere) that is
uncongenial and vulgar.  True, every person can fincd
just the society he desires; here are the low, the vicious
and ignorant, as well as the intelligent, accomplished and
refined.
The WVest, like all other regions, has its advantages and
disadvantages to be set over against each other, but it is
infinite in resources, and great already in its achievements. What other portion of earth has originated and
built up great cities in so short a time? What other land
has the facilities for the perfecting of steam power! for
railroads and steamboats!  We  should not, however,
forget our indebtedness to the East, for it has been, to a
[317] 
DARING OF THE WEST.
great extent, eastern capital that has built our roads,
opened our inexhaustible lead and copper mines, and
built our schools and churches.  Our intrinsic wealth is
more and more developed, and ere long the balance of
power, in wealth and moral influence, as it is now in en ergy, will be in the West. The West regards the East
as its Alma Mater.  I have never seen half a dozen adult
persons born west of Lake Erie, and only two men west
of the Mississippi.
Say you, "There is more high-handed wickedness,
more dark intrigue there."
I grant there is more bold and open defiance of law,
among lawless men determined to carry out deep plans
of wickedness in the face of all obstacles, but not more
of intrigue, nor of pilfering, robbing and murder. In the
one part of the country bad men are designing and subtle,
and in the other presuming and bold. Everywhere there
is a class of persons to be guarded against, or the inexperienced traveler may suffer imposition.
A circumstance was once related to me by a stage passenger, which will illustrate the nefarious system of
counterfeiting practiced here, as well as in the East. IHe
stopped at a hotel in the State of Illinois, when an acquaintance and traveling companion calling for a cigar,
received change for a five-franc piece. My informant
having had previous suspicions of the man, was doubtful
of the coin, and to obtain it laid down a one dollar bill,
took a cigar and the piece.  Following the other man
into an adjacent room, he pronounced the money he held
in his hand to be counterfeit, and added, eyeing him intently, "You are engaged in that business-you have become
quickly rich, and no one knows how; to me, it is solved."
The keen eye of the counterfeiter rested on him a moment
318'  
DARING OF THE WEST.
with affected surprise, but suddenly changing his demeanor, he said, "Can you keep a secret?"  Then followed a disclosure of facts and schemes, and names, among
the first men of that and other states, engaged in the
business of which he had now for the first time been accused. They had a thoroughly organized underground
railroad system, so perfect that they scarcely feared detection. I inquired why he did not make a disclosure, and
thus bring them all to justice. To which he replied, that
"the counterfeiter had felt perfectly secure in making the
disclosure: for the gang was so well organized, and so
connected by a telegraphic chain, that any attempt at disclosure would be perfectly useless, nor could he be in any
portion of their domain but a dozen balls would be ready
to enter his heart."
Another friend, emigrating to Minnesota, had with him
a large sum of money, which he wisely deposited at
Galena. A young man made himself agreeable on the
boat and desired to occupy the same state-room.  My
friend was surprised on one occasion to find his trunk had
been rummaged, but as he was sure no one but the occu pant had entered the room, thought very little of it. His
companion, under some pretext, returned on the same
boat that brought him to St. Paul. Hie was soon after
arrested for robbery, tried. and condemned, and confessed
the sentence just. It appeared that he had gone t A Min nesota with the express design of robbing a fejlow pas senger, who was known to start with a large amount of
money, and his disappointment in not obtaining it hastened
the commission of the act that led to his incarceration.
I have related these circumstances for the benefit of
those who are inexperienced, though the caution involved
is no less applicable in the East than the West.
319 
CHAPTER LX.
THE SECRET OF HAPPINESS.
THE true secret of happiness is to live for the good of
the world and the glory of God, making the best of what ever trials and privations betide. No where is there a
more favorable field for the cultivation of a spirit to be
useful, and to accommodate one's self to circumstances,
than upon the frontier of a new and sparsely populated
region, though this wonder-working age will soon
scarcely leave room for enduring physical privation. We
can scarcely realize the want of a blessing here, before
we find a substitute. Minnesotians admit not the word
"privation" in their vocabulary; those residing in the
larger towns, or their vicinity, have many more privileges
than they formerly enjoyed in the East; and all are satisfied, all are happy, whether in town or country. True,
the experience of the first settlers was somewhat different
from that of those who now come here; but in all their
rustic homes are found sweet contentment, and many
sources of enjoyment peculiar to the West.
A  man of affluence from an eastern city purchased
two thousand acres of the finest land, embracing prairie,
woodland, lake, and river, in the immediate vicinity of
our capital, and set about plans for extensive operations.
This was in the early organization of the territory, when
limited quarters in a crowded hotel were the best accommodations. His wife, accustomed only to the refinements
r320o] 
TIEE SECRET OF HAPPINESS.
of the city, found enjoyment in long rides over the unfenced country, in devising plans for future comfort, and
accompanying her husband amid the delightful scenery
of their own possessions. Sometimes she would prepare
;'he rural feast, and on one occasion, in her evening rehearsal of the day's delights, she declared, "the sweetest meal she ever ate" was the one she had that day
cooked herself, amid the rocks and under the shady trees
-coffee, steak, and potatoes, constituting the bill of fare.
Smooth, flat stones were washed and used for plates,
wooden forks were whittled with Yankee ingenuity, and
a useful jack-knife performed several important duties on
this occasion; and for the first time ii many months she
sat mistress of ceremonies at her own table.
At last, wearied with the process of tempering many
irons in a slow but sure fire, she resolved to occupy their
unfinished house, in spite of suggestions as to its unfitness; and there, without a plastered room, a door hung, or
a window, they.soon found themselves very comfortable,
with the independence of home. Musketo nets were
hung at the windows, a bed arranged upon the shavings,
and she declared the lhappiest night she had yet seen in
the territory was this first one in her own house.
No arrangement for culinary operations had been made,
but two crotched sticks were driven into the ground out
of doors, across which a pole was laid, "whence the kettle
swung;" and thus, with such miserable help as could
only be obtained there, cookitig for two weeks was performed, and relished greatly. This experience prepared
her to enjoy the happy contrast which followed. The
elegantly-furnished mansion now stands amidst the verdant grove, commanding a view of almost the entire city
of St. Paul. A full orchestra of natures warblers join
14*
321 
THE SEICRET OF HAPPINESS.
in concert to break the morning slumbers, and flowers
are springing everywhere around. Everything now betokens thrift and comfort, and all the appliances of wealth
abound.
This is not an isolated case, but only one of many, cited
to prove that pure and elevated enjoyment is not the offspring of luxury; that the heart finds contentment, and
even feasts, amid rural scenes and simple home delights.
I have experienced more heart satisfaction amid the
"brush and brake," and on the "banks and braes" of a
crystal lake, than was ever knwon amid the gayest festive scenes.  I have eaten food there prepared with a
sweeter relish than at the most suimnptuous table. I have
"rowed" in a slender skiff over the blue waves of these
transparent lakes with infinitely more satisfaction than I
ever knew in the gilded boats of the Hudson and Lake
Erie.
In short, I have known Minnesota from its infancy,
and have loved it as a parent does a child, till my very
being is entwined with her interests; and to me it is fit
for a paradise.  Come to Minnesota, but bring with you
principles firm and unyielding.  Come, but let your influence tell on its future weal; so shall your name-be as
a "sweet savor," and posterity shall bless it; so shall
you aid in erecting a fabric which shall endure when
suns and stars shall cease to shine, and monuments
crumble to dust!
822 
CHAPTER LXI.
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
DURING the summer of 1855, I was traveling in a rail
car in Eastern New York; and occupying seats near me
were a well-informed gentleman and lady. Conversation,
from commonplace topics, became interesting, and finally
turned upon the West in general, and Minnesota in particular; the country, its merits and demerits, were pretty
thoroughly discussed, and in an interval of silence the
gentleman inquired if I "knew Miss B, principal of a
seminary at St. Paul?"
"0, very well, sir. Is she an acquaintance of yours?"
"More by reputation than personally. I have met
her but once, and that on her way West. She was a
pioneer in the cause of education in your territory, I
believe."
"She was there at an early day, and has, I think, the
reputation of establishing the first permanent citizen
school, and that under the most unpromising and dis
couraging circumstances."
Hie replied, "I I thought it at the time a very hazardous
enterprise, and tried to dissuade her from it; but the reports of her success have happily justified her undertaking. She is still there, I suppose?"
"At present she is in the East."
"Not to remain?"
"Only a few months. Her health was slightly impaired. and her energies pretty thoroughly exhausted, by
[8231 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
being overtaxed, and a suspension of effort was deemed
advisable, which she is improving in visiting friends."
"It would afford me great pleasure to meet her, and
I hope it may be my good fortune. I owe her an apology
for skepticism, when she was so sanguine.  You will
please bear her my kind remembrances and hearty con gratulations on her success, with the hope that she has
giotforgott,en butforyiven."
"Receive now the assurance," said I.  "I grant abso lution, and we will shake hands as old friends!"
The surprise we leave the reader to imagine.
"And now," says he, "tell me, were there no disappointments-was there nothing to mar your your felicity?
In short, have you never regretted going?"
"If there were no clouds, we would not appreciate the
blessing of the sun; no dark nights, we would not so fully
enjoy the full moon's influence. Shadows have fallen upon
my pathway, but many genial rays of sunshine have
gleamed upon my heart; and so far from regretting that I
closed my ears to your advice, and willfully persevered, as
some thought, against all counsel, it has been a constant
theme of rejoicing that, at that early day, I set the poles
of mny' teeepee' in Minnesota."
"But you must have found much that was uncouth
and uncongenial; must have experienced much of the
'roughing of life.'"
"Well, you know, it is said that honey may be extracted from the bitterest flowers. This is as true in the
moral as in the physical world. I found a moral necessity, as well as a moral philosophy, in closing my eyes
and seeing only the fair side of the picture; in short, of
making the best of everything, and waiting the change
that was fast developing. And every difficulty and trial
324 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
surmounted, have but attached me more closely to m)
adopted home."
"Would you not prefer to remain East, provided you
could bring all that attaches you there?"
A"My preferences are all Western. No; I can scarcely
imiagine an inducement sufficient to keep me in the East
MAy heart is not alienated from my friends: but we can
not always be near those we love.  The world has claims
upon us, which, if we disregard, we forfeit the favor of
heaven. I love my native State with the fondness of a
first-a girlish love; but my adopted one with the true
devotion of woman's love. I left the former at the call of
duty, and that alone would take me from the latter."
"And you have, really, all the glories and excellencies
there that are represented?"
"The half never has and never can be told."
"Hlave you any foreign population?"
"No more than is essential for'hewers of wood and
drawers of water.'  There are Germans, Swedes, and
Norwegians, many of whom are independent, good, in dustrious citizens, quiet and law-abiding, such as are no
detriment to our population."
"Your territory is reputed healthy, with no ague, and
no disease common to the country."
"I know of no disease peculiar to the country.  Bad
whiskey is carrying off its victims by scores; and though
the world is better off to be rid of them, and none layeth
it to heart when the drunkard is gone, yet others are
coming up to take their places; and this will be the case
until the liquor trade is suppressed."
" Can nothing be done to stop the abominable traffic?"
Not so long as the majority of our legislators are men
who cater to the public favor, and wink at iniquity
325 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
buying their votes with whiskey, and licensing those
places of sin where the vendor of vice, pauper ism, and
death, is seeking to entrap eyery youth in a community.
I tell you we want men of moral principle men. who
shall join the ranks of those who stand up fearlessly in
the defense of morality and temperance."
"You hope for the dawning of a brighter day?"
"There is a strong army who will never cease to hope,
to fight and pray."
"The magical working of the Maine Law isfelt in this
State, and the vender and' retailer are made to feel its
power, and it will yet sweep from this entire nation the
drunkard manufacturer.
"God grant it may not be long."
"Well, are you posted in commercial and financial
matters?   Are there any opportunities remaining for
profitable investments?"
"As good as any yet made, and there will be for years
to come,   I never urge one disinclined to go, for I
remember one who came as he said, induced by my representations of the country, through the Press.  Hie lanrded
in a rainy unpleasant day, gazed around, pronounced it
all a humbug, and left in disgust. Others, by the same
means, were induced to come, arrived under different
circumstances, their souls clear from mists and fogs; and
yet, rejoice in their decision. But to those predisposed,
I say, as I have said to you.  "The half never was told,
and you cannot regret the change."  We want none but
sterling, upright men, of strong moral principle who will
stand firm on the side of Right-who will build up and
not pull down society.
"What is the encouragement to professional men?
Any openings for then?"
326
0 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
"Every profession is crowded, and yet there is plenty
of room for more.  Hundreds of lawyers contrive to
find employment.  The doctor lives, though there should
be one to every sick person; merchants in the various
branches of trade, all do a thriving business; mechanics
are never idle, and have high wages. The milliners and
dressmakers even covet rest, but find it not: in short,
there is no branch of honest respectable business but
meets a sure reward, and is fast leading on to fortune.
One of our most wealthy business men, a banker and
real estate dealer, went to St. Paul with only six dollars
and seventy-five cents in his pocket. HIe was honest and
upright, doing whatever his hands  found to do with
energy and dispatch; and though he met many reverses
during the first few months, in three years he was worth
more than a clear hundred thousand dollars, neither
obtained fraudulently, nor by a niggardly spirit, but by
prudent forethought and a run of'good luck.'  He has
merited a reputation for benevolence, and his hand is
ever open to the poor, and he is indeed worthy of his
good fortune."'
"Such cases are probably rare?"
"By no means.  Neither does every one meet with
the samne success, but I have in my mind many parallel
instances. But money-making is an inferior consideration, though well enough in its place. The well being
and improvement of society, should be the predominant
aim of every citizen. Money should be sought as a
-means, not as an end."
"Very true, but is it not the case that the larger proportion of the population have been drawn there by the
hope of gain? "
"The majority, no doubt; yet with very many it has
327 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
been a secondary object. True, our city could not be
built without money, and a vast amount has been
expended there, and not only at the Capital but through out the territory, in an almost incredibly short space of
time.  We want men of capital, and rejoice that we have
them and that others are still going."
"What say you, wife," said he, turning to the lady
by his side, "to going to Minnesota?"
"Where thou goest I will go," she replied, "and you
are well aware that I have long desired a Western home."
"And ere many months we will have one, if fortune
and Providence favor us.  I have long desired to see the
West, with the design of locating if favorably impressed.
"Now allow me to make inquiries relative to the teachers whom the Board of Education has sent to the W,est?
Several hundreds have gone from Yankee land I think?"
"Some four hundred since we met eight years ago, and
these are scattered from the shores of the Great Lakes
to the Pacific."
"But it is generally believed that Ilymen is playing
the mischief with them, and that they soon leave the
public for private schools!"
"So it used to be told in the East, that whenever a boat
threw out her plank at any of the Western towns, a score
of young men filed thereon, would extend an arm from
each side with,'Have a hus7)and, mniss?' to any young
lady Wio might pass to the shore.
"I am a little incredulous, respecting the truth of this,
or the agreeable question has very frequently been
answered in the negative. But seriously, only one hundred or thereabouts of the four hundred, have become
entangled in the web of matrimony, a number too small
rather than too large."
328 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
" It is qu ite desirable, I presume, that all who go should
permanently locate West?"
" It is hoped thlat none will ever return East for a home.
Their influence is needed West, which, when concentrated
in the domestic circle is, in many instances, even greater
than before. But instead of Hymen's playing the mischief with the teachers, as you say, it is rather with the
pupils.  Why, it was at one time proverbial' if one wants
to get married, attend Miss B's school.' Several of my
pupils from thirteen years and upwards, have entered the
state of matrimony, and from being trained in a schoolroom, have begun themselves the training of a household.
The wooing in some cases, is done up in quick time.
"The most expeditious case in which I was especially
interested, was that of a young miss of fifteen.
"One evening as she left the school-room, I noticed a
tall six-footer standing at the corner of a vacant lot, who
joined her as she passed along. The following day she
was not in her accustomed seat, and on the third day she
entered for her books, saying with a happy countenance,
that she should'not be at school any more.'' Vhy not?'
I inquired.'0, I was married yesterday!' she replied.
"'Why did you not acquaint me with your intentions
my dear?  This is altogether too great a surprise! 
"' I should have done So had I known it myself, but he
never asked me until yesterday, and we were married
last evening.'
"' You have known him well, I presume?'
"' I never saw him until the day before. He asked me,
and I didn't like to say No, so I am a married woman.'
"By this time every scholar in the room was choking
with suppressed laughter, and I stepped into the porch
with the departing pupil, and was there introduced to
329 
AN INCIDENT IN THiE EAST.
her husband, who in reply to my regrets said he too was
'sorry to take her away, but didn't see but he must do so.'
They had met for the first time in the street, where hec
had been awaiting her, having seen her as she entered
the school room.  A ride was at once agreed on, and as
she had no family friends to advise with, the ride resulted
in an engagement, and the engagement in marriage of
course.  He was an honest yeoman of the backwoods,
and though never since heard from, they are doubtless
enjoying life in a quiet thriving way."
"Death has no doubt diminished the band of teachers?"
"Thirty or more have died; and some, if not all, have
left an influence which will tell for the good of future
generations. One of my class was first to fall a victim
to the destroyer. There were memorable circumstances
to render her dear to us all. When we parted, she was
full of life and vigor, her great soul fired with enthusiam
in her enterprise. She possessed a capacious, well-balanced, thoroughly disciplined mind, which with all her
attainments she placed at her Savior's feet.
"At Napierville, Illinois, she entered upon the work
assigned her.  Ihere she exerted a great influence, not
only with those with whom she was most intimately connected, but with the community around her.  She lived
not for herself, and yet seemed unconscious of her power
over others.'The true strength and secret of allpower!'
"It is the testimony of her pastor, whom I recently met,
that the amount of good she accomplished can never be
computed in time; that her influence lives to bless the
world, though her visible labors closed with her first
year West.  Never was a young lady more justly and
devotedly beloved; and never one more sincerely
lamented.  The aged felt they had lost a sympathizer
33) 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
and friend, the young, a faithful counselor and guide.
'And,' said one with whom I conversed,'a revival of
religion followed her death, and almost every young
person who became a follower of the Savior, attributed
her first serious impressions to her faithful teachings and
admonitions. So gentle, kind and affectionate had been
both precept and example, that all with whom she had
intercourse were constrained to admit the loveliness of
Christianity, and it seemed that the spirit of Miss Chase
was present, and presided over all our meetings.
"( How true that the'memory of the just is blessed,'
and it shall live when monuments and crowns have
crumbled to decay!
"This is not an isolated case; the same is true of
others who are gone. The teachers of course are not all
of the same stamp, do not all meet with equal success,
but are in the main doing an important work."
"Much more important than I had supposed. I know
if a man like Governor Slade was devoting his noble energies to the work with such zeal, that it must be of some
moment, and I think it is not generally apppreiatd."
"Nor can it be, at this distance. I know, sir, that many
of these teachers are unostentatiously performing the
labor of the Home Missionary, the Sabbath-school Agent,
Superintendent and Teacher, besides  searching out the
cause of the poor, devoting nights to the sick, and attending to many other duties in the community; and no one,
it is thought, can attend to it as well as the teacher,'who
has nothing to prevent!'
"'Their reward is with me,' saith the Lord.  And a
strong confidence in Him sustains the soul, when sinking
beneath a weight of care; yes, the cloud has a'silver
lining.'  I have met and conversed with many of these
331 
AN INCIDENT IN THE EAST.
teachers, but never with one  who  regretted  having
embarked in the enterprise."
"You have not many of them in Minnesota, I think?"
"Minnesota is too much New England to need them;
there are more teachers than schools there. Several have
gone to the Pacific coast, and are very successful in Oregon and California. The Board of National Popular
Education was a little germ which has expanded into a
mighty tree."
332 
CHAPTER LXII
CLOSE OF 1856.
TIHE year 1856 has closed! The auspicious dawnings
of a new year are welcomed by the people of Minnesota
with more than ordinary gratitude, for on no people have
the benign smiles of Heaven more signally rested.
We are generously permitted to extract from the New
Year's Sermon of Rev. A. M. Torbet, which embodies
some ideas on our enviable position and unprecedented
prosperity. We preface this, however, with a brief allusion to a "Surprise Party," which ushered in the year
1857.
In order to detain the family at home, it had been intimnated that a half dozen friends would spend the evening
with them.  The half dozen swelled to one hundred,
who brought with them a superb set of study furniture,
for our pastor, a generous purse to his wife, besides many
valuable gifts to both, testimonies of the high appreciation of a generous, loving people to the best of pastors,
amounting in all to some two hundred dollars.  This had
been accomplished with no apparent effort.  We have no
hesitation in saying that amongst the innumerable social
gatherings of that evening, there was not on the broad
earth one more agreeable, intelligent and refined, than
this; in a young city where savage and civilized life are
supposed to mingle. We presume that the above ineci                                         [~]. 
CLOSE OF 1856.
dent had some influence on the beautiful and appropriate
discourse of the following Sabbath.
Acts, xxviii, 15.  "Andfrom thence, when the brethren
heard of us, they came to meet us as far as Appii-Forum,
ard the three taverns; whom, when Paul saw, he thanked
God and took courage."
"Another year has kindly approached to meet us.
Some it has welcomed at the post of duty; some with
the goblet of distilled fire; others, thank God! being
caught with guile, it welcomed with the temperance
pledge.* To some it will be a year of labor and prosperity, and to others, probably one of dissipation and
ruin.
*      *       *      *       *       *
"As we stand now on its opening period of holy time,
may we not thank God for the Past and take courage for
the Future?  Let us review the blessings of the past
year, and from them be encouraged to assume the duties
of the coming one.
"We have had many social blessings. God has prolonged to us through the past year the endearments of
friendships.  Many pleasing interchanges of solitude and
society have fallen to our lot. In new homes, when we
expected the links of society and social enjoyments to be
broken up, we have experienced no want of either.
The placid stream on whose bosom we were borne to our
present sphere of duty and responsibility, has brought
upon its waters many an old familiar face, and put within
our grasp the hand of many an old and tried friend and
*During the New  Year's calls of 1857, some of the ladies had
arranged to obtain the autographs of their vistors, when some of the
"fast young men" found that they had affixed their names to a temperance pledge.
334 
CLOSE OF 1856.
fellow laborer with whomn we have been associated in
other lands. There has been but little to remind us of
distance from the home of childhood, and the scenes of
other years, except the greeting which these friends have
given at their coming and the adieus at their parting.
There has been little to make us feel that we were mingling the savage with the civilized life, except the occasional presence of the red man with his war-weapons,
his filth and game. We have had our Sabbaths where
the social ties of a pure and hopeful religious life have
been bound more strongly together by the- fact that our
outer life was somewhat heterogeneous. The spiritual
of Friendship and Society, has made the natural of them
to recede among those who were willing and conscientious
in its cultivation. And the godly element of our being
has been more fervent in its pulsations than in other
lands, where it was more mingled with thle natural ties
that bind man to his fellow. There is no place oh earth
where the devout and true children of God can find more
favorable circumstances for the culture of strong religious
affections than here. The bonds of the past are severed;
and there is an absence of heathenish customs and rites
which do not prevent the fill and free admixture in the
highest duties and holiest emotions of experimental religion. We can see more fully eye to eye in the providential
developments of duty which a new field of enterprise,
so full of magnitude and importance as the one we occupy discovers; and realize more strongly the obligations
we are under, to establish and sustain the social interests
of our holy religion. The winter here, for the present,
excludes us to some extent from the rest of mankind,
and throws us into more close social relations among
ourselves. Iaorder then to make them pregnant with
335 
CLOSE OF 1856.
good to our fellow-men; we ought to endeavor to have
the re]igious element pervade them as far as possible.
Society may be used to promote the highest spiritual
interests of the race, and if by it as a blessing we enjoy,
we should seek to confer on others a knowledge of religion, it will be found returning to our own bosom with
a ten thousand fold increasing power to encourage our
hearts in the discharge of the duties of the coming year
and all comning time.
"The past has been a year of unwonted- prosperity.
From a city of little more than six thousand. souls, we
have grown in a single year to ten thousand; and property has grown from a value of hundreds to that of thousands, in alrmost the same space of time.   The territory
has also sustained about the same ratio of increase. From
seventy-five, it has gone-up to a population of mnore than
one hundred and fifty thousand.   And where the eye
rested one year ago on the wide-spread domain, without
a human habitation to disturb the solitude, there now
may be seen the smoke curling from hundreds of cabins,
filled with gifted, active, and intelligent human beings.
It has not been an increase of the rude and uncultivated
of the race, but one marked with culture and refinement.
It has not been an increase only of the poor without the
means of subsistence, but of the sons and daughters of
wealth, worth, anJ distinction.  Nor has the increase been
made without the church and the school-house. These
have sprung up among the population by the same energy
and care that have made the home and opened the farm.
An altar at which to worship God, and a place in which
to train the mental twig, have been sought and secured
by those who have come to make the wilderness and
solitary places glad, and blossom as the rose. We have
336 
CLOSE OF  1856.
been charmed with the field and the garden, where a
year since there was not an appliance cf husbandry. We
have been astonished at the presence of the cabin, lhe
cottage, the superb dwelling, the brickl and stone block,
where a year since there were nothing but bluffs or
bushes.  Confidence and capital have found their way
among us, and been used to advantage. Commerce has
increased, and business of all kinds has been successfully
prosecuted by our increasing number of tradesmen and
mechanics. Labor in every department has been rewarded with the unsparing munificence of a divine providence,
amid whose indulgences, life, through the past year, has
been to us, not only a succession of seasons, but the
melody of music, the fragrance of flowers, the blending
of colors, and the variety of tastes. God has preserved
and blessed our country, notwithstanding our national
provocations; and though our territorial relations may
be such as to excuse us in some measure from the action
of some of the specific national sins of our country, yet
they cannot diminish our solicitude, for our weal or wo
is interlinked with the general prosperity or adversity.
Let us, therefore, repose confidence in God, who omnipotently reigneth, that he will overrule all things for
the public good, and be grateful for such public mercies
as we do enjoy.
*          *          *          *          *          *
"We have our personal mercies.  Life has been preserved.  Our Benefactor has made our mornings and
evenings to rejoice by his manifold kindness.  We have
not only had our Sabbaths and sanctuaries, but our eyes
have beheld our teachers in the pulpit and the Sabbath.
school and Bible-class, and our ears have heard their
voices in the language of his Gospel and grace.  We
15
337 
CLOSE OF 1856.
have been made glad in the house of prayers because God
in very deed met with our waiting souls, and fed us with
the bread of heaven; and shall we not say, with the
sweet singer of Israel,'Bless the Lord, O my soul, and
forget not all his benefits?'
"True, we have had our trials, but even these should
not cheek our gratitude.  To most of us they have been
few, compared with our comforts. They have been light
compared with the sufferings of others, and have been
variously alleviated.  In a measure, when  they have
shot forth God has debated with them, and stayed his
'rough wind in the day of the east wind.' They have
all been founded in our personal good; in a parental regard for our spiritual welfare.
*          X          *          X-.    *             X
"Some of us can recall personal afflictions and bereavements that have fallen to our lot the past year, but are
they not offset with personal mercies, the luxury of which
is still fresh in our hearts, and produces emotions of gratitude too big for language to express? And a gratitude
is required by your 8peaker, at least on this occasion, which
will not expire with mere acknowledgements, but induce him
anew to the Gospel service, and to walk before God'and his
generous people in newness of life.
"What then, my hearers, can be more reasonable than
to take courage from the past, and press onward? We
enter, indeed, on the new year with a confidence in God
nourished from the past.
*          *          X          *          *         X
"There is nothing left to chance; and you may judge
from the past what the future will be. If in it duty and
trial have iningled, so will it be in the year to come. If,
however, all that the past teaches of God's ways with
338 
CLOSE OF 1856.
man, and especially with yourself, is calculated to encourage you to assume the duties of the coming year,
with mingled confidence and gratitude, then, let us arise
and gird on the armor. A new year welcomes us to the
conflict with sin, to the duties of the Christian, and to
the crown of glorified saints in heaven.  A new year invites you to design and execute something for the good
of souls, and the glory of God. It invites you, here, to
raise your Ebenezer, and say' hitherto hath the Lord
helped me,' and though' He slay me, yet will I trust in
Him.' We admire confidence, but, in order to be profitable, it must be coupled with fear, lest we offend God.
"When you are so naturally led to think of the past
and the future, why not, like Paul, when he met the
brethren at Appii-Forum, thank God, and take courage to
perform every other duty which necessity, interest, the
salvation of others, the claims of the Savior, and the
glory of God require. And if you have not begun a
religious life, now is the time. Let the goodness of God
lead you to repentance." 
339 
CHAPTER LXIII.
CONCLUSION.
IN surveying this vast arena-this field for effort, conm mensurate with the noblest aims and desires of the most
disinterested hearts, we cannot but believe that Minne sota has no common part to perform in the drama of
events which are to precede the millenial glory. N9r —
can we but believe, that no small part is assigned to those,
who were "last at the cross, and first at the grave of our
Savior."
Man may bid the tall forest tree to bow; he may make
the waste places smile with plenty; he may engage in
political strifes, and his eloquence thrill the nation; or he
may hold the scepter of power: but to WOMAN a higher,
a nobler work is entrusted. It is her province to train
the tender twig and to mould the plastic clay. Upon
her it depends, whether the individual American citizen
shall be a curse or a blessing, and whether the nation
shall be rent and prostrated by the feuds of corrupt men,
or fulfill the mission of the great Christian republic of
modern times.
Hers is no trifling work.  The tiny twig is soon to
grow into the stately and well proportioned, or gnarled
and knotted tree. It is:  hand that must give to each
expanding le          best position to imbibe the sun's
clear rays -e  healthful morning dew.  It is no
trifling wuork to mould the future destiny of immortal
[310] 
CONCLUSION.
beings. When the child first folds its hands within its
mother's, who teaches it to lisp "OUR  FATHER,"  an
impression is received which will gather strength with
years, and the remembrance of that soft hand upon the
head may arrest the wayward youth in his downward
career of sin.
We would repeat it: To woman is entrusted the
future destiny of Minnesota. Ier influence is to determine the predominance of vice or virtue; whether the
"powers that be" shall, in the future, be men "fearing
God and working righteousness," or men choosing "darkness rather than light," being haters of that which is
good.  And this influence is not to be wielded by disselnsion, strife and the ballot-box, but by precept and example.  If she frowns upon all that is abhorrer in high
places, and encourages virtue, though in the garb of
poverty, if she reposes not supinely on the lap of easea mere butterfly of fashion, living for display and admiration, but with high and noble aims seeks to answer the
great purpose of her existence, she may make the pages
of its future history bright with the records of immortal
worth.  Like the otto of roses, most potent when the
flower is crushed, so shall her name and deeds be felt
when the soul has escaped from its crumbling casket;
sweeter and yet sweeter the fragrance, as the expanding
circle of her influence stretches upon the broad ocean of
eternity.
We live in an age of enterprise-in an age when progress is on the high pressure principle, and knowledge,
all powerful for good or evil, is spreading with wonderful
rapidity. Good and evil are intermixed, and yet are so
distinct as to be obvious to the most casual observer.
Truth and error are engaged in a conflict, but hope is
341
4 
CONCLUSION.
dawning on our moral horizon, and in its westward
march will soon shine with all the effulgence of noon-day
glory. Truth will triumph: "for the mnout of the Lord
hath spoken it."
FINIS.
f
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