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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866,
By DICK & FITZGERALD,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern
' District of New York.
LovEJoY & SON,    -
ELECTROTYPERS ANI) STEREOTYPERS.
15 YVandewater street N. Y.
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INDEX.
PAGE
BROADSWORD (contrined).
Practices.......................... 171
Recover Swords.................... 170
DReturn Swords-Second Practice.... 171
Slope Swords....................... 171
Target............................  165
Third Practice..................... 172
DRIVING..........................  128
Carriages, Kinds of.................. 123
Difficult Situations for Drivers....... 128
Directions for Driving.............. 125
tIHariness, Description of............. 128
Putting to.......................... 125
Road, the...........................  127
Starting............................  126
Vices of the Horse in ttarness....... 118
FENCING (see Broadscord).......... 151
Advance..........................  152
All Fein              ts..........................  162
Apparatus for Fencing.............
Appels.............................. 160
Assault, the General Advice on...... 162
Attacks........................... 159
Beat and Disengagement............ 16
-- and Thrust..................... 161
Beats on the Blade.................. 160
RColtre-Parades..................... 158
Cut Over and Disengagement....... 161
Cut over the Po(int................. 161
Demi-Circle......................... 157
Disengagement..................... 159
Double........................ 162
Engage............................  154
Glizades............................ 160
Guard.............................  151
Longe............................. 153
Octave.............................  157
One-TFo to............................  159
One, Two, Three.................. 160
lara(les.............................  154
Qfga      rte.............................  155
Isecover............................  153
Retreat.............................  152
Seconde............................ 156
Straight Thrust.................... 159
ETitrce.............................  155
PAGE
ANGLIlNG........................... 132
Baits.......................5........ 135
Com Cle aring Ring, the B............  A.... 135
Directions for Anglers............... 136
Disgorger, t he...................... 136
Floats............................... 134
Fily Fishing...................... 139
Gaff-Hook, the...................... 135
Hooks.............................. 133
Leaders............................ 184
Lines.............................. 133
Nets.............................. 134
: Reel, the........................... 183
Rod, the........................... 182
Sinkers, or Dipsies.................. 184
Swivels............................. 134
Water-knot, the.................... 150
BOATING.......................... TS
Boating Terms..................... 80
Component Parts of Boats........... 79
Cutter Rowing..................... 85
Faults to le Avoided............... 85
Landing. 84
Management of the Boat............ 83
-  of the Oar............ 81
River Rowing....................... 81
Rowing, Essential Points i n.......... 83
Sea Rowing........................ 81
BROADSWORD......................  168
Attack and Defence................ 169
Carry Swords....................... 171
Cuts............................... 166
Draw Swords...................... 170
Drawing Cut...................... 173
Fifth Practice..................... 172
First Lesson in Sword Exercise...... 163
Fort and Feeble.................... 172
Fourth Practice..................... 172
General Advice..................... 174
Guards............................ 167
Hanging Guard..................... 16S
Inside Guard..................... 168
Outside Guard..................... 169
Parry............................... 16T
Points.............................. 166
Positions........................... 163 i 
., X.
PAGN
HORSEMANSHIP (continued).
Form of the Horse.................. 109
Leaping........................... 117
.Management of the Gallop........ 117
of the Reins............ 113
of the Walk............ 115
Mounting.....................112
Paces of the Horse.................. 107
Parts of the Horse.................
Seat,  the............................ l.......... 1t4
Terms used by Horsemen............ 106
Trot and Canter.................... 116
Vices, Treatment of................. 118
ROWING............................ 81
Cutter Rowing...................... 85
Faults to be Avoided................ 85
SAILING............................ 87
Cautions and Directions............. 100
Compass, the Marirner's............. 100
Cutter-Yatcht, Deicription of........ 92
How to Sail a Boat.................. 9
Nautical Terms....................14.   101
Sail-Boat, the...........................97
Sailing Vessels, Varions Kinds of.... 88
Yachts.............................  91
SKATING.........................55
Circles and Curves.................. 58
Evolutions, how to perform.......... 57
Figure 3 and Fizgure 8............... 60
tHow to Stop.     I 57
White Lake Bass............................ 57
Outside and Inside Edge............  57
Salute, the......................... 57
Start, the........................... 55
PAGE
FISH, DESCRIPTIONS OF............... 137
Black Bass...................... 143
Blackfish.......................             ot.... 148
Bluefish............................ 148
Carp, or Tench..................... 144
Catfish............................. 146
Chub, the......... 146
Codfish............................ 149
Drumfish.......................... 147
Eel, the............................ 145
Garfish............................ 145
Goldfish............................ 146
Kingfish, or Barb................... 148
Mullet............................. 144
Perch......... 142
Pike............................... 141
Pike-Perch......................... 142
Red-Eye............................ 143
Redfish............................. 148
Red-Horse.......................... 143
Roach, tile........................... 146
Salmon, the......................... 137
Sea-Bass............................ 149
Sheepshead, the..................... 147
Star-fish...........................
Striped Bass, or Rockfi    sh............ 141
Sucker, the......................... 144
Sunfish, the......................... 144
Tom Cod............................ 149
Trout.............................. 139
Weakfi         sh.......................... 147
White Lake Bass.... 143
GYMNASTICS....................... 5
Arm Exercises...................... 9
Dumb-Bells........................ 16
Giant Stride, the................... 50
Horizontal Bar, Exercises with...... 31
Indian Club, Exercises with........ 17
Jumping............................ 12
Ladder, the, how to Mount......... 51
Leg Exercises........................................... 
Marchbing......................... 6
Parallel Bars, Exercises with........ 20
Pole Leaping.......................... 15
Running........................... 9
Stilts............................... 52
Suspended Bar, or Trapeze..........39............ 9
- Ropes, Exercises on...... 43
GYMNASTIC TRICKS.............. 52
HORSEMANSHIP (see Drivintg)..... 105
Age of the Horse, Marks of........................... 106
Control of the Horse................ 1..15
Dismounting........................ 113
SWIMMING.........................
Aids to Swimming................
Back, Swimming on the.............
Balancing-DADnger, Saving fromn.....
Fling, the...........................
Floating............................
Hand over Hand Swimming.........
Legs, how to manage the............
Mill, the............................
Plunging and Diving................
Rules of Swimming................
Side, Swimming on the..............
Sports arid Feats in Swimming.......
Striking Off and Swimming.........
Swimming UTnder Water............
Swimm-ing with One Hand(.........
Thrusting..........................
Treading Water.....................
Wheel, Backward and Forward......
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ATHLETIC SPORTS FPTOR BOYS,
GYMNASTIC exercises may be begun by a boy of about eight years of age,
or may be commenced at any age; but, in all cases, he should begin gently,
and proceed gradually, without any abrupt transitions. They should be
commenced before breakfast in the morning, or before dinner or supper; but
never immediately after meals; and the pupil should be very careful, after
becoming heated by exercises, of draughts or cold, and especially refrain
from lying on the damp ground, or from standing without his coat or other
garments; and rigidly guard against the dangerous practice 6f drinking
cold water, which, in many instances, has been known to produce immediate
death.
A proper practice of, and mastery over, the feats of Gymnastics, serve to
develop the muscles, and are preparatory to the proper performance of all
athletic sports and exercises.  VWhIat we propose to show, are feats as may
be performed by any lad, without expensive apparatus, and without  a
teacher; and which will be amusing as well as healthy to the performer.
These are preliminary to other and more pleasing exercises; for fencing,
rowing, riding, etc., are gymnastic feats of a more advanced kind. We
shall commence with Marching, and so advance through the whole round.
fllimi 
M ARCIIING.
MARCHING.
It is not necessary to say any thing about the ordinary mode of walking,
which should be easy, free, and natural; or about the Indian lope, which is
used in fast walking, the body being thrown forward, and the strides long;
but the principles of the military step should be explained, as a good preparation for gymnastic exercises.
The boys should choose a captain, who should be a rather bright felloew,
and he must study out thoroughly the following, so as to be able to drill tile
rest, who act as his company. He should first teach them the position and
facings, and then the principles of the step.  ID  giving out the words of
command, hlie should pronounce the first word, or words, if there are two
or more, slowly, by way of caution, and the last wvord quick and sharp.
The moment the boys hear the first word they should get ready, and then
execute the command when the second word comes. If the command consists of one word only, the last syllable is the part to be obeyed, and the
first the caution.
The Position.-At the word of command, "Atten-tion!" which should )be
pronounced with the last syllable accented, every boy will stand in this
way:
His heels on the same line, and touching each other.
The feet turned out equally, so as to make a shape like a broad letter V
The knees straight, but not stiff.
The body erect, but inclining a little forward.
The shoulders square.
The arms hanging naturally.
The elbows near the body.
The palm of the hand turned a little to the front, with the little finger
resting on the seam of the pantaloons.
The head erect and square to the front,but not stiff nor constrained.
The eyes looking straight to the front, and at a spot on the ground about
fifteen paces off.
Each boy will place himself so that he can touch the left side of his righthand neighbor, without jostling him, by raising his elbow slightly, take the
position given, and wait for the next word of command.
The captain will now give the word, "Eyes-right!"  At the word right,
each boy will turn his head gently and quicklly, so as to bring the iinner corner of the left eye on a line with the centre of his breast, so as to look
down the line of boys on that side.  But he must not move his body or his
shoulders.  The head must turn, as it were, on a pivot.
At the word "Front I" the head will be brought back to its former posi
tion.
At the word, "Eyes-leftI/" tlhe head will be turned to the left, in the
same manner as was previously done to the right.
At the word "Front!" the head will take its former position.
6
-0 
MARCHING.
At the word " iest!" each boy may stand in any easy way he likes, but
will not step out of his place.  Whenever the word "Attentionl" is given,
he will take the position before taught.
The Facings.-The next thing is the facing to the right and left. At the
word " Right-face I" each boy will raise the right foot slightly, turn on the
left heel, raising the toes a little, and then replace the right heel by the side
of the left, on the same line. This will bring the boy in a position at right
angics to the right, with the way he stood before.
At the word "Left-face!" he will raise the left foot slightly, turn on the
right heel, raising the toes a little, and replace the left heel by the side of
the right, on the same line. This will place him on the left, at right angles
with his former position.
To turn completely around, the word is, "About-face " At the word
about, each boy will turn on the left heel, bring the left toe to the front,
carry the right foot to the rear, without turning it, the hollow of that foot
opposite to, and about three inches from, the left heel, the feet at right
angles with each other.  At the word face, he will turn on both heels, raise
the toes a little, extend the hams, face to the rear, and, at the same time,
bring the right heel by the side of the left. He must take care, at the same
time, to keep his body as square as possible, these motions being done with
the feet.
The Step.-Hlaving learned the position and facings, each boy will now
exercise the step.  To do this the captain will give the word, "Forwardcommon time-March!" At the word "Forward!" each boy will throw
the weight of the body on the right leg, without bending the left knee. At
the word "March i" he will carry his left foot smartly forward to the length
of this step,* the sole near the ground, the ham extended, the toe a little
depressed, and slightly turned out, the knee also slightly turned out; he
will, at the same time, throw the weight of the body forward, and plant
flat the left foot, without jarring or shocking the leg, precisely at the distance where it finds itself from the right when the weight of the body is
brought forward, the whole of which will now rest on the advanced left
foot. The right foot will next be brought forward in the same manner,
withoutt striking one leg against the other, or turning the shoulders,,nd
with the face kept to the front.  This will be repeated until the word
'Halt!"  At the word "fZlt!" the foot in front will be put to the ground,
and the other foot brought up to it, and there remain.
To practise this properly, the boy who acts as captain should either cry
"one," as the left foot is set down, and "two," as the right foot is brought
to the ground; or use the words "left I right I" in the same manner, thus
marking the time.
Comnmon time is ninety steps to the minute; the time of the quick step
is one hundred and ten to the minute. The captain can learn this cadence
* In a man this would be twenty-eight inches, from heel to) heel; and it is proportionately less for boys.
7 
MARCHING.
by counting with a watch before him, and the other boys will get it by
practice.
The quick step is executed in the same way as the step in common time;
but the time is not named in the command.  The word is "Forward —
March I" and when it is given without the time being mentioned, it will
always be the quick step.
The double-quick step is faster, and is, in fact, a slow run, in the time of
one hundred and sixty-five steps to the minute.  Before commencing this,
the boys will be taught the principles of the step by being exercised in
marking time, which is a funny but necessary proceeding.
The word is "Double-quick step-fMarch!"  At the word "Double-quick
,step!" each boy will raise his hands to a level with his hips, the hands
closed, the nlails toward the body, the elbows in the rear. At the word
"March!" he will raise to the front his left leg, so bent as to give the knee
the greatest elevation, the part of the leg between the knee and the instep
being kept perpendicular, the toe depressed; he will then replace the foot
in its former position, and execute the same movement with his right leg, and
so on, alternately, witi7out moving forwa(rd, until the word "Halt!" when he
will bring the foot which is raised by the side of the other, drop his hands
by his sides, and resume the position he would take at the word "Attention "
When the captain has practised the boys for some time in marking
time in this way, he will set them to execute the step itself. The word
is "Forward-Double-quick —March!"   At the word  "Forward!" each
boy will throw his weight on the right leg.  At the word "Double-quick!"
hlie will place his body just as he would do at the command "Doublequick-Step," in marking time.  At the word "March I" he will carry forward the left foot, the leg slightly bent, the knee somewhat raised; will
plant his left foot, the toe first, at the quick-step distance;* and then do the
same with the right foot, throwing the weight of the body on the foot that
is down, and giving the arms a slight natural motion. This will be done
alternately until the word "Halti" when the bty will stop in the same
manner set down for the other steps.
In executing these manoeuvres the line of boys should be taught to dress
-that is, to align itself, or keep itself straight. To do this properly, the
captain will number the boys, from right to left, and each boy will learn to
know his number. He will then place No. 1 and No. 2 on the right, two paces
in front of the line of boys, and, having put them in a perfect line, just so
close that they can touch each other's elbow, without opening their own,
but not so close that they jostle each other. He will now call out, " Number Three I" At the word, No. 3 will march forward two paces in quick
time, shortening the last pace so as to be about six inches behind the line. Ho
will move up by steps of two or three inches, quickly and steadily, until he
* This, in a full-grown man, would be thirty-three inches.
8 
RUNNING.-LIMB EXERCISES.
reaches the side of No.'2, and, with his eyes to the right, without removing
his shoulders from their square position, will see that he is in exact line,
and at the same time that he can touch slightly the elbow of No. 2. Then
No. 4 will go through the same movement at the word, and so on. When
this has been practised for some time, the boys will be able to align themselves easily at the word of command. This, if the boys are desired to
dress toward the right, is "Right-Dress l"  If toward the left, is "LeftDress I" As soon as the rank is aligned, the captain gives the word, "Frontl "
when the head and eyes are brought square forward again.
If the boys are marching in quick, or double-quick time, and they want
to face about, without halting, the word is, "Right about-lMarchl"   At
the word " March!" which must be given at the instant the left foot is coming to the ground, each boy will bring this foot to the ground, and by turning on it, face the other woay.  Then he will plit down his right foot, and
step off, left foot forward, in the new direction.
It is necessary to particularly remember-1. That where there is no time
mentioned between the word Forward and March, the quick step is always
to be used.
2. That the order for marking time in the double-quick may be distinguished from the order to march in the same step in this way-it has no
"forward" before it, and the cautionary word is "Doouble-quick step," instead of "Double-quick."  Thus, to mark time, the word is " Double-quick
step-March!" while to march in the same time, the word is "Forward-,
Double-quick-March I"
3. The command "About face I" is to turn each boy to the opposite face,
when he is at a halt; and the command "Right about I" when he is marching.
RUNNING.
In running, you go through the same motions as the double-quick step
in marching, but you increase the swiftness of your motion accordingly.
LIMB EXERCISES.
Independently of the walking and running, there are exercises of the
arms and legs which are worthy attention; and may either follow or precede the learning of the step.
The boys are to be brought by-their captain to the attitude of "Attention."
.irst Arm Exercise.-At the word one, throw out the palm to a line with
the body, and raise the arms slowly, without bending the elbows, till they
are horizontal with the shoulder, and the boys stand in the form of the;
letter T, the palm of the hand pointing downward; at the word two, bring'
the arms down sharply into the first position.  (See rllustration.) Remember
that all the boys must be taught to keep exact time in their exercises-and
the word otcommand must help them to this-the word one being given slowly,
and two sharply. Thus: oo-nn-ne, two, oo-nn-ne, two, and let each exercise
be repeated till the boys learn to do it all together, smartly and well.
1*
9 
LIMB EXERCISES.
Second Arm Exercise.-At the word one, bend
the right elbow, without moving the upper part
of the arm, and bring  the fist up in front  of the
shoulder, with the knuckles toward the shoulder;
at the word two, drop the arm to the former posi                        tion.  Repeat-one, two; one, tw6;  the same ex                        ercise with the left arm; the same with both arms.
(See Fig. 1.)
Third Arq  Exercise.-At The word one, raise the
'\\    right arm as in the last exercise; at two, bring it
straight up beside the head (fist doubled), three, r,                        turn to the same position as at one; four, drop a.
to position of attention.  Repeat-one, two, three.
four;'ne, two, three, four; same exercise with left
arm; same with both arms.  (See Fig. 2.)
Fourth Aen Emxercise.-At the  word one, raise
the right armni as in the second  exercise;  two,
stretch it out horizontally in front of you, as if stri             -' a ()  king a blow (knuckles upward);  one, arm as il
second exercise;  two, strike out again.  Repeat                        one, two; the same with left arm; the same with
FIRST POSITION-ATTENTION! both arms.
; r>E: <s
i
1~1.
F~1.Fi..Fi:g. &
Fig. 1.
10
Fig. 2. 
LEG EXERCISES.
Fifth Arm Exrcise.-Same as the fourth, but at the word two turn the
arm in stretching it out so that in the horizontal position the knuckles are
downward. Repeat with left arm; then with both. (See Fig. 3.)
Sixth Arm Exercise.-At
the  word  one  double the
right arm as in the third'                /
exercise;  at two  bring  it  
straight up above the head,
(fist doubled;) thre4 extend  
it outwards from the side so.  
as to form a right angle with...........the body; at four bring the...............
arm back to the position of           -                    ~i -'one, striking the right lung.
Repeat —one,  two,  three,.
four; one, two, three, four;
same with left -arm,  same
with both.  (See Fig. 4.)
Seventh  Arm  Exercise.At the word one raise the
arm slowly forward (keeping 
it quite stiff till it has  de-  /
scribed half a circle and is                         
raised above the head; at
two complete  the circle by 
bringing it down backward,                         Fig. 4.
Fig7. 4.
letting the fist be as far behind the body as possible, till the hand returns to the first position. Repeat
this, increasing the rapidity of the movement, as the exercise becomes more
familiar, but always keeping perfect time to the word of command; the
same with the left hand, and with both hands.
Eighth Arm Exercise.-The same as the seventh, but begin the circle by
moving the arms backward from the body, and bring them forward in the
descending half of the circle, thus reversing the movement.
A variety of other exercises may be undertaken, all tending to give
strength and suppleness to the arms; but the foreging, if perfectly understood, will be found sufficient for the purpose.
LEG EXERCISES.
First Leg Nxercise.-A$ the word one, advance the left foot, keeping the
knee straiglit and the point of the foot a little outward, and just touching
the ground-+ the whole of the weight of the body being balanced on the
right. leig;  i  word twvo, draw tihe left leg rapidly behind the other,
and repeat the exercise several times. Then go through the same with the
right leg.
11 
JUMPING.
Second Leg Exercise.-This exercise consists in lifting each leg alternately
as high as possible, the body being kept perfectly straight and steady.
In all these exercises care must be taken that the boys move exactly in
time.
Flexion of the Lower Extremities.  This is an important exercise,  and
should be executed with particular care. Bring the tops of the feet nearer
together than in the usual position, and place your hands on your hips, the
thumbs in the front and the fore fingers behind. Then bend the legs, keeping the body perfectly erect and the knees together.   At first this bending
must be only partial, but as the movement is repeated, t'e pupil should
bend lower and lower each time, until he can assume the position shown in
the engraving. and resume an erect posture, standing on the top of his toes,
without moving his feet further - The head and body must be kept perfectly erect during the whole time.
JUMPING.
There are several ways of jumping, the principal being upward, downward, and the long leap. These should be well studied in sport, as circumstances may arise in after life inA which it becomes necessary to practise
them in earnest..
The Long or Horizontal Leap.-To execute this leap, the boy, without a
n, must bring his feet close together, then bend his legs slightly, throwing
12
.I'
fr 
J'UMPING.
his arms forward, with the hands closed, at the height of the shoulders.
This bending of the knees must be repeated two or three times, as by
this means an impetus is acquired, similar to the "accumulation of power"
obtained by swinging a stone round the head with a sling two or three times
before discharging it.  When the
requisite impulse  is obtained, he
must press the soles of the feet
hard against the ground, and by a
sudden and  vigorous, spring, extending his arms and his legs at
once, he launches himself forward,    Aa
alighting, as far on as possible, on
the tips of his toes.  Care must be
taken to bend the legs the moment
the feet touch the ground after the
leap, as this  deadens  the shock 
caused by the sudden weight of the                 
body thrown on the feet, and the'..
weight of the spring.  In this, as in
all kinds of leaping, it is advisable 
to begin with short distances, taking
care to leap neatly and gracefully, gradually extending the distance as proficiency is attained. By attempting too much at first, the learner will only
expose himself to disappointment, besides getting into a slovenly way of
leaping,and running the risk of a sprained ankle.
The Downward Leap.-This is a very useful exercise; and as it presents
THE DoIWARD LEAP.
THIE DOWN WARD LEAP.
18
TuIz UPWA"l) LEAP. 
JUMPING.
some difficulties, it should be practised sedulously at gradually increasing
heights. It is, moreover, a gymnastic operation which many have involuntarily to perform in some emergencies of actual life. The number of people
annually  mutilated, or even killed, by jumping down from heights, in cases
of fire and similar calamities, is lamentable; and yet the majority of these
might h      ave escaped unhurt, if they had only known how to set about the
undertaking.         Like poor  little Prince Arthur, in Shakspeare's play of
"King J      ohn," they have been compelled to say:
The wall is high, and yet I will leap down;
Kind ground, be merciful, and hurt me not."
Whereas, had they known how to leap, they need not have been at the
mercy of the "kind ground" at all. Proceed in the following manner:
Having mounted to the height from which you are to leap down, stand
with your feet together, the toes pointed forward, not outward. Close
your fists at your sides, and raise yourself gradually on tiptoe, bending the
knees, and rising your hands as you do so (see Illustration), on bending
for the thi-ime, drop gently off the elevation (carefully avoiding any
thing like a spring), and as you descend through the air, straighten the
body, throwing the arms upward as much as possible. Directly the points
of your toes touch the ground, bend the knees forward, to break the impetus of your falL Take care to increase the height from which you leap very
gradually, and never attempt a deeper jump till you are quite perfect in the
previous ones.
Thle Upward Leap.-Bring the feet close together.  Close the fists, rasing
them above the head, and bend the knees two or three times, to get an impulse. Jump suddenly from the ball of the foot (the heel not touching the
ground), and as you rise, bring the hands rapidly down to your sides, as
this will give you an additional impulse upward. Here, too, the distance
of your leaps must be increased very gradually, as the effect of missing your
tip, as it is called, may be painful and unpleasant.
R?unnzng Lealp.-For a horizontal leap, with a run, the boy should start
at a brisk pace, increasing as he nears the point from which he is to spring;
on reaching which, he must jump forward, without a moment's pause, so as
to lose none of the impulse of his run. On rising to his leap, let him press
the balls of his feet strongly against the ground, throwing his fists forward
horizontally in the direction of his leap.  On touching the ground after the
leap, the knees must be bent and the body thrown backward. The same
rules apply to the upward leap, except that here the fists must be thrown
not forward, but upward, as the body rises.
Two points are to be particularly observed in jumping with a run.  The
first is to bound from the ground with as much force, and the second, to
alight upon it with as little force as possible. If the leaper comes down upon
his heels, the whole body receives a very unpleasant shock, in which the
brain partakes, and violent headache is frequently the consequence. If he
14 
I'OLE LEAPING.
comes down flat-footed, and his shoes happen to be a little short, or too flexible, he will stump his toes in a very painful fashion. The right way is to
come down upon the ball of the foot, with both toes and heels raised, and
then to bring down the heels as the legs are straightened after the jump.
In a horizontal leap, the jumper sometimes finds himself thrown unpleasantly forward. This is because he has not leaped high enough off the
ground, but has skimmed along it like one of the stones used in "bDucks and
Drakes." But "Duck and Drake" practice in leaping is a very painful affair,
frequently.accompanied by "bumps" on prominent parts of the face, and
bruises on the hands.
POLE LEAPING.
The pole should be made of some tough, hard wood, not liable to snap,
and adapted to the height and strength of the boy, and to the length of the
leaps he is to undertake.
The boy should begin with a
short pole, and practise leaping
without a run.  RPest one end
of the pole on the ground, holding it by both hands, placed
near each other, a little above
the  head.   Then  spring  up
evenly on both feet, managing
the arms so that the elbows are
bent when the body passes the
pole.. Push yourself forward as
far as possible, leaning all your
weight on the pole, and continue.    rthis practice, gradually increas-     /         fi
ing the distance of your leaps.
For a horizontal leap, with a
run, stand at some distance from
the space you wish to clear.
Hold the pole with the right hand above your head, thumb upward, and
with the left hand at the height of the thigh, thumb downward. Then
start with a run, keeping the lower end of the pole in front of you. On
reaching the edge of the ditch, or space which you wish to jump, stick the
end of the pole into the earth, and by a sudden and powerful spring, raise
the body, leaning the weight on the arms as you rise, making a half turn
as you clear the space, and alight on the balls of the feet, on the other side,
bending the knees to break the force of the descent. The longer the distance
you have to leap, the nearer the top must you grasp the pole, the distance
between your hands and the lower end of the pole being in fact the radius
of a half-circle, of which your feet, in leaping, describe the circumference.
Low walls and fences may be jumped by means of the leaping pole.
15
Of, 
DUMB-BELLS.
Here it becomes'necessary to lift the feet high as you rise, so as to clear the
wall, and as you descend bring the upper hand smartly down, so as to jerk
the lower end of the leaping pole upward, that it may clear the wall.
DUMB-BELLS'
hest and developing the muscles of the
arms; but care must be taken not to put
too heavy a pair into the hands of a
novice  In ancient times they were
used by the Greeks and Romans  in
their gymnastic evolutions.  The first
exercise consists in raising the dumb bells alternately to the height of the
shoulder, the hands of the boy being
brought steadily  up, straight before
,him; all appearance of jerking or effort
must be avoided. The movements of
dumb-bell exercises are generally pretty
much like those in arm exercise; but
they are  more  efficacious, inasmuch
as the weight of the dumb-bells develops
the muscular powers of the arms and opens the chest. The motions must not,
however, be continued too long without
16
Fig 9.
I':
Fig-. L.
Are excellent for opening, the
i. 
THE INDIAN CLUB.
rest, as the work is rather heavy. We give the following two exercises,
which, together with the motions described in the hand and arm exercises,
already given, will be amply sufficient for the young gymnast.
First Exercise.-Take the position of Fig. 1, incline the body forward,
throwing the arms upward behind the back, as in Fig. 2; resume position
of Fig. 1.  Repeat this four times.  Take the position of Fig. 1, throw the
chest and arms backward as in Fig. 3; resume position of Fig. 1. Repeat
four times. Then perform the combined exercises four times. These motions
should not be performed rapidly.
Aacon_Ad  r    e.Ta   t   positi
Fig.  4.
THiE INDIAN CLUB.
This branch of gymnastics is one
we strongly recommend to boys.  In
using the clubs the chest is expanded,               -
greater freedom is given in the use of
the arms, the muscles of the legs and                  Fig 4
arms as well as those of the whole
body are brought into full use, the wrist is strengthened, the grasp of the
hand is made firmer, the circulation of the blood is regulated, and the
health in general is greatly improved. If their use is persevered in, they
will render the person who practises with them ambidextrous-that is to
say, he will be able to use his left arm almost as well as his right in hurling,
flinging stones, lifting weights, and similar operations.   The young gymnast
must be careful, and use light clubs at the outset, remembering that if he
persevere, he may soon achieve the skill and strength necessary to wield
17 
THE  INDIAN CLUB.
heavy ones with ease. The clubs vary in length, ranging from eighteen to
thirty inches. The shape mostly used is shown in the foregoing illustration.
The illustration represents the largest and smallest sizes; there should
be at least six sizes between these two, making eight different sizes
in alL
As these clubs increase in length they increase in diameter (at the bottom) also.
Two clubs must be made of each size, and each fellow in size should be
as nearly as possible of the same weight as the other. They are usually
made of hard wood, to withstand any accidental blow, for it will frequently
V:..;I
'~
k,          %  F   /  %,.'x, r —--
~,~.,,,.~.           ~,'t~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~(l
Fig. 1.
happen that they will be brought in contact one against the other, especially by beginners. Again, it is for their weight that they are used; were
it not for that, the using of them would not have the required effect.
First Exercise.-Hold the smallest club in the right hand, and with
the motion of the wrist only, give a circular motion to the club; as from
left to right, from right to left, from front to back, from back to front, as
near as possible. The arm must be kept straight down at the side. RE
peat the exercise with the left hand.
18 
THE INDIAN CLUB.
Second Exercise.-R-epeat the above exercise with the arm bent at the
elbow, but the forearm must be kept perfectly still.
Third Exercise. — old a small club in either hand, and repeat the above
exercise, allowing both the clubs to revolve the same way.
Fourth Exercise.-The same exercise as last, but causing the clubs to revolve in opposite directions, thus: let the left hand club go from left to
riglit, whilst the right hand one goes from right to left, or vice versd.
Fifth Exercise.-Repeat the same exercise with the arms extended in
front, at the sides, or straight over the head.
Sixth Exercise.-PReDeat the last exercises, allowing the arm to be bent at
the elbow.
Seventh Exercise.-Repeat the last exercises with the elbow as the centre
of the described circle instead of the wrist, placing the arm in the several
relative positions. (See Fig. 1.)
Eighth Exercise.-Exercise the arms in any of the foregoing exercises, with
a large and small club at the same time, and one arm doing the same exercise as the other, or different.
Ninth Exerce.-Lift the club to the shoulder, first
with the right arm, then with the left, then both       arms
together.   Then the clubs must be whirled slowly          A
round the head (see Fig. 2), each arm being used
alternately, and the fdot of the club depressed toward the shoulder as the club passes round the head.
The motions must be made slowly at first, and gradually increase in rapidity as the pupil becomes proficient.
Tenth Exercise.-The same exercise with two clubs,
and both arms to revolve in the same, or in different 
directions.
Elevenzth Exercise.-Hold a club in either or both
hands, with the arm bent at the elbow.  Let the
club lean on the shoulder first, then as low as possible, and with the motion of the wrist only, carry the  --
club out straight with the forearm.  Thli's should be
done as if a blow were intended to be given.
Twe7fth Exr.6cils.  Hold as large a club as possible,       Fig 2.
wvith the arm or arms extended in front or at the sides.
Thi-teenth Exercise.-W hilst holding out a club with one hand, achieve any
of the aforementioned exercises with the other.
Fourteenth Exercise.-Fiord any of the clubs (the larger the better) ill
either or both hand:;, bri), the hands up suddenly under the arm-pits, and
drop them again as qcilickly as possible.
Fifteenth Exercise.-Dring the hands up under the arm-pits, and extend
them suddenly in front or at the sides with the clubs upright.
Sixteenth Exercise..-Repeat the above exercises successively. The hands
19 
PARALLEL BARS-OUT-DOORS.
may be brought up under the arm-pits or to the shoulders, as most conve.
nient, before proceeding with the next.
In performing the last three exercises, the elbows must be kept as high
and as far back as possible.
Seventeenth Exercise.-Hold a club in each hand with the arms extended
at the sides, the hands to be kept as high as the shoulders, and the sides of
the clubs, and if possible the hands, made to meet behind.
Eighteenth Exercise.-Achieve any of the foregoing exercises whilst stand.
ing on one leg.
Nineteenth Exercise.-Aim at any imaginary object with either of the largest
size clubs, allowing the blow to be given as if to descend on a man's head, and
when the club shall have reached that imaginary point,it is to be brought to a
sudden standstill, as if something had impeded its progress, and there held for
a short time. This exercise should be done both in front and at the sides.
Twentieth Exercise.-Repeat the above exercise with a club in each hand,
the blows to be given both at the same time in front or at the sides, or with
one in front and one at the side.
PARALLEL BARS-OUT-DOORS.
PARALLEL BARS.
PARBALLEL BARS.
If the apparatus be intended for the open air, four posts must be fixed in
the ground, perpendicular on the inside, eighteen or twenty inches apart at
the ends, and about five feet six inches apart lengthways, which will give the
form of a parallelogram. These posts should be about three feet six inches*
above the ground, and made of fir poles, as near the same size as possible.
The bars should be of elm, and free from knots, and should extend about
a foot beyond the posts at each end, which will make them seven feet six
inches long.  They should not be perfectly round' but slightly flattened on
both sides, and about two inches and a half in the longest diameter.
There should be a kind of shoulder in those parts of the bars which rest
on the posts, which will give additional strength to the bars. The ends
should be slightly rounded, to fit the hollow of the hand.
* Four feet would not be too high.
20 
TO GET ON THE BARS.
If this apparatus be erected in a building, we should recommend the
posts to be made so as to allow the bars to be lifted higher, if required, and
according to the height of the gymnast, or the height re-'
quired to perform the feat.
Let the case for each post be made to allow a two-inch
square pillar to slide up and down inside it, thus:
The case should be made of wood, from thllree-quarters of
an inch to one inch in tliickness, according to the strength of
the wood used. 
Holes (represented by the dotted,Ines) must be bored
through both pillar and post, into which an iron pin is put    A::.:...
to keep the bar at the required height.
These holes are to be made in the direction of the bars,
about four inches apart, and six in number, counting from
the top.  All four pillars must be alike in every respect.
The bars and posts should 5e neatly mortised together and, for further security, a wooden peg should be used instead of an iron one.
1.-To GET ON THE BARS.
Stand between the bars, with the hands hanging close to the sides, spring
up, place a hand on either bar, and keep yourself suspended.
Another Metihod.-When the
bars are about level with the top
of the learner's hips, the hands
must be placed on each bar, and
the legs lifted from the ground,
which will cause the whole
weight of the body to be upon
the arms; the head will now
be thrown a little forward
All that is requisite for the
learner to do now is to straighten his arms, thereby raising
his body into an upright position.  (See Fig. 1.)
This requires great strength
in the wrists as well as in the
arms, and cannot be performed
but by one who has strength in
those parts.
Practise this exercise with
the fingers on the inside of the
bars, as well as on the outside.
2. —WALKING.
Suspend yourself, as in No. 1,
at the end of the bars, and move
~;
A
21
-ni
Ill>fF
Fig. L 
HOPPING.-SWINGING.
the hands alternately along them, which must be done without bringing the
shoulders out of their place, or hasty and irregular steps being made, the
body or legs twisted about, or any like irregularity.
When the opposite end has been reached, the walk must be repeated
backward to the point of starting.
This will be a little tedious at first, but after a little practice it will be
quite easy.
This exercise must be repeated with the fingers on the inside of the bars.
The arms must be kept perfectly straight, or you are liable to fall.
3.-HOPPING.
This exercise tries the strength of the wrists very much, and to perform
it the learner must mount between the bars as. in the last, and instead of
moving the hands alternately, they are to be moved both at the same time;
the legs are to be kept perfectly straight.
Short steps should at first be taken, and increased in length gradually, as
soon as the learner can do it with ease.
4.-SWINGING.
In order to get a perfect freedom in the arms and wrists, the swing is an
exercise to be practised.
While suspended between the bars, the learner must swing the legs and
Fig. 2.
body to and fro; very little at first, until he can with safety increase it.
The legs must be kept close together and straight.
In increasing the swing, the legs must be made to do their utmost both in
the forward and backward swing, and in either case the feet must be carried as high as the head, the higher the better. (See Fig. 2.)
In the backward swingthe body will be parallel with the bars. (See Fig. 3.)
22
Fig 2.1
11411 il~llilii,J —.. —-. 
JUMPING.
5.-JUMPING.
This exercise is similar to the last, but in order to do it the learner must
get his body into a good swing, the jump being made between the swing.
'"'              l.  Lii i   i                                       _            ~1 m,, m,'    u:       -
Fig. 8.
Owing to the variety of exercises to be achieved in this, we have, for the
purpose of its being the better understood, divided it into parta
Fig. 4.
First.-During the swing, advance the arms alternately, one in the forward and the other in the backward swing.
23 
THE LONG LEAP.-THE LONG RUN.
Second. —Advance one arm alternately in the forward swing only.
Third.-Advance one arm alternately in the backward swing only.
Fourth.-Advance both arms at once in the forward swing only, as in Fig. 2.
Fifth.-Advance botharms at once in the backward swing only, as in Fig. 3.
Sixth.-Advance the arms in either the forward or backward swing.
These exercises will be found to make the arms ache, but this will soon
wear off after a few times practising.
Keeping one leg (or both) up will make the exercise more difficult, yet
this should be also practisecd
6.-THE LONG LEAP.
Great strength is required in this exercise. It is performed by swinging
the body at one end of the  bars, and, wvith a sudden spring, jump to the
''Hiiili!L IIll!l      i1
-' ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I= aid 
r.    1i~
Fig. 5.
other end (or as far as yofi can), which must be done i the forward swing,
and, in alighting on the bars again, let the arms be bent, as in Fig. 4.  The
position of the body in the forward spring is given in Fig. 5..
7.-THE LONG RuN.
When the body has been swung as high as possible, and in the backward
swing (see Fig. 3), make as many alternate movements of the hands along
the bars as you can before you allow your legs to faIL
This must be repeated to the end of the bars.
This exercise may also be done with the body in the forward swing, but
this is much more difficult; yet it is to be overcome by practice.
8.-THE  Iicx, OR SPUR.
While swinging, as described in No. 4, draw up either leg alternately, and
send it out again with all your force; or bring up both legs at once, but it
24 
TO BRING THE LEGS OVER.-TO RISE AND FALL.
must be done in the back swing, and when the legs are high above the bars,
or you are likely to feel the effects of your o,n kick.
The sudden motion of the legs is likely to throw the body a little out of
its balance, yet, grasping the bars firmly will prevent it, after a little practice.
9.-To BRNG THE LEGS OVER.
Swing between the bars, and, with a gradual motion, throw both legs over
the right-hand baa
~~~~~~~~~~I
Fi 1I
Fig 6.
With a sudden spring, bring the legs between the bars again, and throw
them over the left bar.  (See Fig. 6.) 
The hands must grasp the bars firmly in this and the next exercise.
10.-To RISE AND FALL  BELOW THE BAIS, OR THE LETTER L.
Sit on tlie ground, grasp the bars with the hands on the outside, and pull
yourself up gradually until the shoulders are level with the bars; then as
gradually lower yourself, still keeping yourself in the'same position, namely,
the feet elevated and the legs straight, as in Fig. 7. It should be repeated
two or three times.
Difficult at first, but soon achieved by practice.
This exercise may be done in No. 1, when the legs are to be gradually
raised until level with the bars. The knees are to be kept perfectly straight.
11.-To PRISE ANDY SINK DOWN ABOVE THE BARS.
Mount between the bars as in No. 1, grasp them firmly, and lower the
body gradually by bending the arms until you assume the position shown in
2
25
I 
TO RISE AND SINK DOWN.
Fig. 8, but without allowing your feet to touch the ground, then gradually
raise yourself by trying to straighten your arms; this will put the whole
strength of your muscles to their utmost.
Fig. T.
Do not allow your body or legs to move or turn about, but take it
easily, and after a few times trying you will become perfect master of it.
4
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Ir
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Fig. 8.
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1 7 
THE JANUS.
12.-THE JANUS.
Mount between the bars in the middle, and throw a leg over each in front
of your hands.
Grasp the bars firmly, and, with a spring, bring the legs between the
__ I ______
Fig. 9.
bars, and carry them behind you, but in so doing cross the legs, as in Fig.
9, and in giving the body a slight twist, allow them to rest on the bars,
when the right leg will be on the left-hand bar, and the left leg on the right
Fig. 10.
hand bar. (See Fig. 10.) Do not always turn your body the same way, or
let the same leg be always uppermost in crossing them.
This exercise should be repeated five or six times successively.
27
11I IIll~
I
Fig.~~~~~~~~~~~  i, 
THE BARBERRS CURL.
13.-THE,APRBER'S  CURL.
Stand between the bars, and sink down until the head be below the bars.
Grasp the bars with the hands and straighten the knees into a sitting posture, thereby forming the letter L (Fig. 7).
Fig 11.
f
.-  F~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I
A n d~~~~ ~~~~~~ l-  I 
X    1   W~~~~~~~
Now bring the legs gradually over between the arms (Fig. 11), till they
perform a circle, or until they come nearly down to the ground (Fig. 12),
C~               _
y;Iij}
~
Fig. 12.
and after staying in that position for a short time, bring them back again
quite as slowly as you brought them over.
28
-0, 
TIHE TURNOVER.-THE FORWARD SOMERSAULT.
The knees must be kept straight during the performance of this exercise,
likewise the feet kept off t'ie ground.
Difficult to beginners, and makes the arms ache, but it is nevertheless
easily performed after a little practice.
Do not give it up in despair if unable to do it the first, or even the second
time trying, for this is a very pleasing exercise, and tends greatly to
strengthen the muscles of the arms, and likewise causes the grasp to be
much firmer.
14.-THT  TunrXOV,r,.
Sit astride the bars as across a saddle, stretch your hands in front, fall
forward, drop between the bars with a quick motion, and grasp the bars
behind you, which will cause you to release your hold with your legs (see
Fig. 13), and by bringing them together directly they are free of the bars,
they will drop between them, when you mnay alight on the ground.
___ii-{_          H ~4i;~-            L
I,v.1-  ~j    <\A (((~M
E if -
fIg.
Fig. 18.
Try it slowly at first, so as to understand the mode of catching hold of
the bars, and do not attempt to let go the bars with your legs until your
hands have a firm hold, or when sure of not making  a false aim at them.
G-radually increase the quickness of the motion until you can achieve it
without any pause, for it is necessary to do it quickly in order to do it
properly.
15.-TI-IE FotwAPD SOMERSAULT.
This feat is generally performed at the end of No. 2, or any other exercise which brings you to the end of the bars. It gives a very brilliant finish to any of those exercises, and is not so difficult as may at first appear.
When you reach tihe ends of the bars with your hands firmly grasping
the ends, as shown in Fig. 14, lean a little forward and bring the body into
an upright position, with the legs bent over the head, and in so doing bend
the arms, which will cause the shoulders to come between the bars, bring the
legs over, and when you find yourself nearly overbalanced, give a slight spring
29 
TO STAND ON THE BARS.-THE HORZONTAL BAR.
In flying over the ends of the bars, let the body lean well forward,
assisted with a slight spring of the hands, which will give you greater
courage to let go, likewise a better and easier method of bringing your legs
together again without knocking them.
The greater the impetus used iD swinging, the greater will be the success
of achieving the feat.
17.-To STAND ON THE BARS.
Place your hands on either bar, spring with your toes, and throw the right
leg over. Bring the other leg up and hitch the toe under the bar (see Fig.
16), lean the body forward, with the arms extended min front to balance
yourself, then bring the other (right) foot on the ear,as close as possible to
(     _,._~.. ~ ~
{-t_,~~~~~~
1,,,r'll,
the body, and by means of the toe under the bar, with which you are to
steady yourself, raise your body up so as to stand on the right leg. Do not
unhitch the tee until you are firmly standing on the bent leg.
Now gradually lower yourself again, taking care how you slide the toe
along under the bar, and likewise to maintain a good balance.
TIEE TTORIZONTAL BAR.
nor Out-doors.-Three
posts, one lower than
the other two, are to be
fixed in the ground
about six feet apart,
and a bar to be fixed
in either two of them, as
in the annexed cut.
The bars, if made of
wood, to be about a
quarter of an inch more
: -
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31
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Fig. 16.
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1C.
An
. -A 
TO STAND ON THE BARS.-THE HOR:ZONTAL BAR.
In flying over the ends of the bars, let the body lean well forward,
assisted with a slight spring of the hands, which will give you greater
courage to let go, likewise a better and easier method of bringing your legs
together again without knocking them.
The greater the impetus used in, swinging, the greater will be the success
of achieving the feat.
17.-To STAND ON THE BARS.
Place your hands on either bar, spring with your toes, and throw the right
leg over. Bring the other leg up and hitch the toe under the bar (see Fig.
16), lean the body forward, with the arms extended min front to balance
yourself, then bring the other (right) foot on the bar,as close as possible to
(- -F               6. ___
l     Fig  16
the body, and by means of the toe under the bar, with which you are to
steady yourself, raise your body up so as to stand on the right leg. Do not
unhitch the toe until you are firmly standing on the bent leg.
Now gradually lower yourself again, taking care how you slide the toe
along under the bar, and likewise to maintain a good balance.
TIIE HTORIZONTAL BAR.
FPor C~u-doors.-Three
posts, one lower than
the other two, are to be
fixed  in the  ground
about six feet apart,
and a bar to be fixed
in either two of them, as
in the annexed cut.
The bars, if made of
wood, to be about a
quarter of an inch more
1!,.
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31
~~~~~ —--- -   
,-                     -       i
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SO IHANG ON TFIE BAR
in diameter than the parallel bars, as greater strength is required in some
of the exercises, during the performance of which the bar is very much bent.
If these bars be made of iron, they should be mrucli smaller, and should
not be used if rusty, but first rubbed with a piece of coarse sand-paper,
otherwise the clothes will suffer. We prefer the wooden bar for several
reasons, and therefore recommend it.
For In-doors.-Two posts, about eight inches square, arc to be so fixed as
to withstand any amount of work
-~ --    < on the bar without being loosened
-- in the ground.
A-   W. -  _-= —__==_-.. =*...
.l1 - _    rI~_  Previous to their being fixed, a
.,~ ~ i t      ~~ ]       groove about six feet long should
*t!~                ~~~   i~^   be cut through each post to about
eighteen inches from the ground.
~ *~~-                           About twelve or fourteen holes
should be bored through the post
o.o
within the length of the groove
for an iron pin to pass through,
to keep the bar at the required
' *~~~~~~~~                 height.
*.~ ~.*~ ~          The bar may  be of the same
length and size as required for
,-~   ~~~ —  ~the out-door, but it should have a
--  small shoulder at each end, in or                    lIlZ(~NTL 1'.      der to rest firmly against each
post, thus:
a
To
0)
(D
_-_
0 o-,
-- - -, —         -
ul
0
>
Co
0,:
The bar may then be lifted to any height required.
18.-To IIANG ON THE BArn. 
Jump up and lay hold of the bar with both hands, let the thumbs  be
on the same side of the bar as the fingers, and likewise the knuckles as
far upward as possible
3 )
(Z)
------ 
WALKING.-JUMPING.-SWINGING.
Grasp the bar firmly without any fear of not being able to retain your
hold for a long time, and alternately take away the right and left hands.
*Suspend yourself as long as oonvenient, but do not overtire yourself
and in dropping from the bar be careful to alight on the toes
19.-WALKING.
Grasp the bar as in the last, and move the hands alternately along the
bar, beginning with short and even steps, increase their length until able
to take them with ease, and when capable of so doing, place one hand ea
either side of the bar, and proceed as above, but the hands must now advance one before the other, and in returning walk backwards.
Keep the legs straight and the toes pointing to the ground, and do not
move them about in performing this exercise.
20.-JuMPING.
This exercise is performed in the same manner as the last but the hands
must move both at the same time instead of alternately.
The legs may be bent a little, to assist the learner in making the spring
21.WINGING.
Hang by the hands about the middle of the bar, move the legs and body
to and fro as if on a common swing, and after a little practice you will find
your body rise level with the bar. (See Fig. 17.)
iI i l
~  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~! 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fig. 1T.
Do not be afraid of swinging too high, as many feats, to be hereafter
mentioned, depend greatly on the neatness of the swing.
Swving to and fro at least a dozen times, not more, and in leaving the bar
do so in the forward swing, and when your feet are rising to a level with
your face, when you must let go your hold, and with a motion of the body
alight on the toes 
2*
!I;i.
"ii
33 
TO RISE AND FALL.-THE PANCAKE.
This is a very neat way to leave the bar, and the farther the gymnast can
alight on his feet from the bar, the greater will be his after success, and the
more graceful will his performance appear. 
Above all, avoid jerking the legs in swinging.
22.-TO RISE AND FALL.
This exercise is very similar to No. 10, but this sometimes receives the
name of breasting the bar; it
is, nevertheless, nothing more
than the pulling up  of the
body as high as the arms will
allow.
I9 > tL~ ~'lHang on the bar, and grad                        _M.    - ~       ually pull yourself up until
your breast is as high as the
~    w           ~,bar, then steadily lower your                                           self again.  (See Fig. 18.)
Repeat  this  five or  six
times at least, and if not able
to succeed in doing it the first
time of trying, do  not de                                           spair, for on this exercise
likewise depends the being
able to accomplish many
others, as it tends  greatly
to strengthen the muscles of
*:                   |   -      the arms and the wrists.
23.-THE LETTER L.
~^                                          1 >S\ ~~This exercise only differs
from the last in one respect,
that instead of the legs being
Fig. 18.                     allowed  to  hang  straight,
they are brought to a right
angle with the body, thereby forming the letter L, and in this position raise
the body as in the last exercise. (See Fig. 7.)
This'will seem more difficult to the learner than No. 10, partly owing to
Ae difference in the position of the body; but practice will soon overcome
that difficulty.
24.-THE PANCAKE.
,roceed as described in No. 21, and when the body has swung nearly as
nigh as the bar, let go your hands, and after bringing them smartly together
(see Fig. 19), renew your hold on the bar, and continue to swing. Persevere in doing it until able to do it with ease and perfection; the former only
34 
TO TURN A PANCAKE.-TO ~.-TN-G THE BODY THROUGH.  35
to be obtained by constant practice, while the latter eonsists in the smartness with which the hands are brought together.
The farther the gymnast springs from the bar, the greater the effect.
Fig. 19.
This exercise should be repeated three times before allowing the feet to
touch the ground. It is a difficult exercise to beginners, but very soon overcome.                                              e
The bar should be about two feet above the head of the gymnast, when
standing on the ground
25.-To TURN A PANCAKE.
Proceed as described in No. 21, and every time the body is in the forward swing (when the back will be toward the ground), give a smart turn,
letting go the bar and grasping it again quickly, before the body has time to
descend.
After a little practice, the body should be turned every time, thereby
preventing it from descending in thle backward swing, consequently the
gymnast has the opportunity of seeing which way he goes.
The gymnast will find that he will improve in this exercise every time he
practises it.
2.-To:BI3RIG TIlE  eoDY. TIIROuGI.
Hang on the bar as before described, and with a gradual motion bring
the legs up toward the bar, bend the knees, pass them between the arms
under the bar, and allow the legs to pass through, together with the body,
I
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36    THE EVERLASrING TWIST.-TO HANG BY THE LEGS.
which must fall as low as the arms will allow; when the body, arms, and
legs ought to be nearly in a line with each other. (See Fig. 20.)
After remaining in that position for a short time, return through the arms
again, without allowing the hands to loose their hold, or the feet to touch
the ground
It will be found very difficult for beginners to return; until able to do so,
'    release the hands and fall to
the ground; but after a little
: _F ~ ~~~~ ~ - -;   practice,  especially with  a
little assistance at first, it
,  will become very much easier
than it would at first appear.
I}.r ~~~~2 7.-THE EVERLASTING
TWIST.
This is an excellent exer                                            cise, and one we strongly re'  commehd, as in performing
it the gymnast must, if he
have not yet done so, sus                                          pend himself by one hand,
.  thereby testing the strength
of each wrist.
Proceed as last described,
but in lieu of bringing the
body again through the arms,
i  X             TI~~lj~l' 1 let go one land, when the
body will swerve completely
round, grasp the bar again,
and repeat the exercise  as
often as convenient.   If it
be done six times without
Fig. 20. astopping, and always leotting
go the same hand, it will appear as if the arm was being twisted completely round.
We have always found the above give the greatest satisfaction, and swe
should therefore recommend its constant practice and attention.
Do not always use the same hand.
28.-To I-IAXNG BY TiiE LEGS.
Bring  the legs through as described in No. 26, and throw the legs
over the bar instead of allowing them to fall toward the ground. Rest
them as shown in Fig. 21, bending them over the bar as far and as firm as
possible, let go the hands and allow them to hang loosely.
After remaining in that position as long as convenient,bring the arms up,and 
CIRCLING THE BAR.
by drawing the body up a
little, grasp the bar again and
allow your body, after having
unhitched your legs, to fall as
in No. 26, and drop to the
ground, taking care to alight
on the toes.
Another method will be
described in a future exercise,
as it will be necessary to
achieve one or two exercises
to bring the body above the
bar in order to sit on it.
*                                          ~~~~~Iin  No. 26,  and  drop  to  the                                                                -                                                       Li~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~II
29.-CIRCLING THE BAR.
This, to a beginner, is a difficult and annoying exercise.
Difficult because he is very
likely to be a longtime before
he be able to do it to perfection; annoying because his
shins are sure to suffer if he
does not go over the bar
as he intended. Yet when
once accomplished, no exercise will be found more easy.
Hang on the bar and proceed with No. 26, but carry
the legs above the bar, instead of under, and by pulling
the body up with the arms,
and a slight motion of the
wrist, carry the legs completely over the bar, and in
going over they will act as a
sort of balance to your body,
and with the assistance of
your arms, the body will be
brought into the required po ition.
As a means of enabling a
young gymnast to circle the
bar sooner than by the meth od just described, only let
him fix the bar about as high
5i0n-                                                                   0
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37
Fig. 2L
Fig. 22. 
THE LEVERn.-TIIE SUSPENDER.
as his chin, when, after having placed his hands on the bar, and with a step
forward, he might give his legs that impetus upward, which will carry him
over the bar quickly as possible, but in so doing the legs'must be
Fig. 23.
straightened (see Fig. 22), and carried over the bar by the simultaneous
motion of the arms, especially the wrists. This will, in a very short time,
I I'11tl  il
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Fig. 24.
enable him to do it as first described, when the bar should be raised high
enough to cause the gymnast to jump in order to reach it.
I'
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38
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(;a 
THE LEVER.I-HE SUSPENDED BAR, OR TRAPEZE.
30.-THEr LEVR.
This exercise requires great strength in the muscles of the arms, and is
only to be achieved by practice, and with a determination to succeed
Go through the arms as in No. 26, keep the legs perfectly straight with
the body, and gradually lower them until level with the ground as in Fig. 23.
After remaining in that position a short time, either drop to the ground, or
carry the body back again through the arms; the latter should be preferred.
31.-TEiE SUSPEN-DER
This exercise is meant to test the strength of the grasping of the bar with
one leg.
Stand under the bar and grasp it with both hands, one on either side, and
with a sudden spring throw the right leg over the bar toward the left;
then place the toes of the left foot under the bar, as in Fig. 24; let go the
hands, and allow your body to lower itself as much as possible, remaining
in that position as long as convenient.
The hands may either hang loosely, as in Fig. 24, or be folded across the
chest.
Repeat the exercise by reversing the p6sition of the legs
The leg under the bar must be kept perfectly straight.
THE SUSPENDED BAR, OR TRAPEZE.
This is preferable to what is generally termed the "triangle," for two reasons: first, the ropes need not be but one-half the length; second, the gymnast can perform a greater number of the horizontal bar feats with the suspended bar than with the triangle.  It is constructed thus,-two ropes are
suspended from the ceiling or roof of the building, by means of crooks, each
rope to have a loop at each end, cased with iron, to prevent its wearing
away.
A bar of tough wood, about twenty-eight inches long, is hung on to the
ropes by means of crooks fixed to the ends of the bar, thus:
]i    A.
Fig. B.
39
=i
tu
,.
:i 
THE TURN.
The crook in Fig. A is screwed into the end, and the wood is kept from
splitting by an iron ring or cap, represented by the shaded part.
The crook in Fig. B is screwed through the cap and bar, and kept in its
place by an iron nut.
An extra iron ring should be fixed in the lower end of each rope, to enable
the bar to be hitched on the more readily, the ring to be about the size of
the crook.
The ropes should not be less than five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and
six feet six inches long.
32.-THE TURN.
Place the left hand on the bar, with the fingers backward, and the thumb
in front of the bar, close to the left-hand rope, which must be grasped with
i
- i
I
Fig. 25.
the right hand about the height of the shoulder, then carry your body
round the left-hand rope, and by lifting your legs over the bar resume your
position on it.
Do the same with the right-hand rope, only let the left hand be uppermost. (See Fig. 25.)
The rope must be grasped as shown above
I
40
I i
Fig. 26. - 
TO STAND ON THE BAR.-THE OVERTHROW.
33.-To STAND ON THE BAR.
First sit on the bar, grasp the ropes as high as possible, and with a
gradual motion, similar to No. 10, pull yourself up until you can place your
feet on the bar  then place the hands a little higher, to ease yourself, or proceed with the next exercise.
34.-To STAND AT EASE.
Turn your back against one of the ropes, with your feet on the bar, but
the toes turned out (see Fig. 26), and when perfectly steady, fold the arms
across the chest.
Do this against either rope, and do not always keep the same foot in front.
Fig. 2T.
The feet may be placed as in Fig. 26, or the front foot may be slided forward, so as to rest the hollow of it against the bottom of the rope, and the
other laid across it, as when sitting in a chair a person stretches out his
legs for ease and comfort.
35.-TIIE OVERTHROW.
Stand on the bar and grasp the ropes firmly, as shown in Fig. 27, which
shows that the knuckles are in front, and the thumbs downward, the elbows
I
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41
Fig. 28. 
42    TO STAND ON THE HEAD.-THE REST.-TI-THE SWING.
may be a little up, but the hands should be as high as the hips; then, by
leaning forward and lifting your feet off the bar, allow yourself to turn quite
over, when you may either alight on the bar in the sitting posture, or place
your feet on the bar again; the latter you will be able to do if your hands
be high enough before you turn over.
This exercise may be reversed, and tile best description or idea how it
should be done will be to advise the learner to notice the position of his
arms and hands after he has accomplished the above exercise, and reverse
the motion of the body on turning over.
36.-To STAND ON THE HEAD.
Grasp the ropes about a foot above the bar, after having first knelt on it;
then, with a motion similar to the last, throw your legs upward, oven them
and place them against the ropes to steady yourself, then lower the body,
and place the head on the bar.
After a little practice the young gymnast will be able to let go his hold
of the ropes and fold his arms across his chest, or in any other position;
but he must be very careful how he does it the first time.
The hands should be placed as shown in Fig. 27.
3 7.-THE REST.
This exercise is very similar to the above.
Sit on the bar, grasp the ropes, slide downuntil the bar touches the back
of the neck, and in so doing, throw the legs up and rest the feet against
the ropes. (See Fig. 2S.)
The body must be bent a little at the hip,
The hands may be folded across the chest, or placed as shown in
Fig. 28.
Care must be taken in this as well as the last, for a slip might cause you
to repent of not having paid sufficient attention to the advice given.
38.-THE SWING.
In swinging with the suspended bar, the ropes are sure to sway to and
fro, and in thus swinging, the force required must be given at the right
time, otherwise the ropes might check you.
It would give additional beauty to this exercise if the young gymnast
were to perform any other exercise during the swaying of the bar, as Nos.
22, 26, or 29, or any other that he might select.
The leg-swing must be made while hanging by the legs, as in No. 28,
when the arms must be well used to accomplish the exercise, to give satisfaction.
Do not omit to keep your feet well toward the ground in the leg-swing,
after having once set yourself in motion. 
THE CATCH.-THE LEAP.-THE SUSPENDED ROPES.
39.-THE CATcIr.
Sit on the bar without holding, and, in throwing yourself back, open the
legs wide, and turn the toes outward, when they will hitch around the rope,
as shown in Fig. 29. After remaining in
that position for a short time, pull the
body up and grasp the bar, when you
can easily unhitch the feet.
40.-THE REAP.
After achieving No. 38, and when
you think yourself high enough from
the ground, let go the bar and alight
ton it, either in the forward or backward swing, but let the toes bear the
weight of the body on alighting, and
not the heels.
This should be practised with a slight
swing at first, as the position of the
body is not the same on alighting with
the forward as with the backward
swing. After a little practice, the gymnast may try how far he can leap from
the bar. The higher the swing, the
farther will be the leap.
THE SUSPENDED ROPES.'
This rope is supposed to be about six    L J/
feet six inches long.  The top loop-hole       (;   
is protected by an iron ring, similar to
those with the bar just mentioned. The
middle loop is formed by tying the rope
as represented, the bottom of the loop
to be about three feet from the lower
loop, which ought to be bound with
some kind of metal,  both to protect                 Fig. 29.
the hands from rubbing against the ropes, and to keep the loop always ini
the same shape; otherwise, when the hands are in them, and the whole
weight of the body off the ground, they will be very much squeezed, owing
to the ropes not retaining their proper position.
The top and bottom loops should be spliced to the required size.  The
lower loop to be about eight inches long, and about five inches in diameter
near the bottom, which will give, very nearly, the shape of the battledore.
The ropes are to bethe same size required for the bar.
* Brass is mostly used, and Is not liable to rust.
43
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44 SIMPLICITY.THE BARBER'S CURL.-TUTHE EVERLASTING CURL.
A few knots may be tied in these ropes to facilitate the
climbing of them; but this should be done after the rope
has been well stretched, or at least sufficient room should
be left between any knots previously tied for an additional
one, in ease the rope should be at any time too low.
Many parties prefer these ropes joined at the top, and
in many gymnasiums this is found very useful; the rings
on the top are firmly bound in with tar-core, after which
each single rope is bound round a few times to prevent
the rings from slipping out of their places.
The knots and loops in both ropes must correspond,
and the middle loops must, if possible, hang outward
whe   the roe  ar  supndd  an  no  ban    ewe
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41.-SIMPLICITY.
Grasp 4he bow ends of the ropes, one in each hand,
throw the legs up as quickly as possible, something similar to No. 13, only much quicker, and on the feet falling
to the ground, let go the ropes and alight on the ground.
Difficult as it may appear to beginners, there is not one
more simple when accomplished.
The quicker this exercise is done, the more likely is the
gymnast to succeed, and after trying it a few times he will
be able to alight on his feet in safety.
42.-THi  BARBER'S CURL.
This exercise is described in No. 13; but instead of
grasping the bar, the loops must be grasped (see Fig. 30),
and in doing it the ropes must be perfectly. steady, and
not allowed to sway to and fro.
43.-TaIE EVERLASTIXG CURL.
This exercise differs from the other two just mentioned,
insomuch that the feet must not touch the ground, and
ere that can be allowed the gymnast will have to undergo a very severe punishment, which we shall not here attempt to describe, but will leave him
to proceed as in the last, and on the feet coming down, spread the arms a
little, when he will find that his arms will seem to come out of their sockets;
but heed it not, for this exercise when done three or four times without
stopping, will give extra freeness in the use of the arms, and likewise giove
greater satisfaction to any one who may see it done.
In doing this exercise, say three o0 four times without stopping, the feet
are not to touch the ground under any pretence whatever, and when able
to do it without feeling the least unpleasant sensation, we will leave the
f
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THE LIFT.-THE LEVER.-THE TWIST
young gymnast to judge of the injuries or
benefits obtained by the practising of it.
44.-ANOTHER METHOD.
Proceed as last described, but allow the
feet to touch the ground, and spring very
slightly every time you carry up (he legs.
This should be repeated both backward
and forward as often as possible; it will
make you very giddy, but will soon wear
off after reversing the motion of the body.
The ropes must not be let go until the
exercise be finished, but allowed to twist
.p as many times as the gymnast goes
round.
45.-THE LIFT.
Grasp the ropes and throw the legs up
as  before, but in so doing,  straighten
them and keep them upright. Keep your
body down, and do not let it be bent, nor
the feet touch the ropes.  (See Fig. 31.)
When in this position, pull yourself up
5s far as possible, and let your body fall
suddenly, still keeping the legs and body
in the same position.
This is a good exercise, and tends to
make the gymnast keep a firm hold of the
ropes.
4G.-THE LEVER.
This exercise is described in No. 30, the
only difference being in the position of
the hands.
47.-TnE TwisT.
Tlhis is a very difficult exercise both to
achieve and to describe.  l
Hang by the hands and throw the legs
over; but before allowing them to fall too
far, give the body a twist so as to bring
tihe back (the nearer the middle of the
back the better) against the arm toward
v-hich you turn, and in so doing, lot go               Fi   L
the other rope, and keep yourself sus- 
pecnded as long as agreeable.  (See Fig. 32.)
The legs and disengaged arm must be kept extended as far as possible,
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45,
Fig. 80.
);
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46      TTHE LETTER L.-THE STRETCH.-THE CHANGE.
and the body must incline a little backward, for it to rest on the arm more
securely.
Great practice is required before a beginner might be able to accomplish
the difficult part of this exercise, as it not only tries the strength of the
muscles of the arm, but the twist given at the shoulder, and the difficulty
Fig. 32.
found in balancing the body evenly, causes many to abandon the exercise
as impossible. But when a young gymnast has once achieved it, he will feel
a pride in doing it before those who before deemed it impossible.
48.-TEE LETTER L.
This exercise is described in No. 10, the hands here grasping the loops
instead of the bars.
is0              1~49.-TirE  STRETCI.
After rising as high as possible, as in the last exercise, bring one hand
to the front and stretch the other out (see Fig. 33): the loop in the front
must be grasped firmly, whilst the other is kept in the required position by
the open hand, as seen below, the fingers being extended, and the whole
strain falling on the hollow of the hand.
This should be done with both hands. The legs should be kept perfectly
straight, or they may be made use of as if ascending a flight of stairs, the
slower the better.
50.-TiTHE CEHANGE.
Proceed as last described, and after bringing one hand in front, let go the
other, and keep yourself suspended for a short time; then grasp the other
loop and do the same with that one, changing as often as convenient.
This is a very clever and amusing exercise, and one wlich should be per
severed in.
51.-To MOUNT BETWEEN TnE ROPEs.
This is another very trying exercise, but, like No. 46, the shoulders will
reap the full benefit.
II
la 
THE TURN-OVER.
Rise between the ropes as in No. 49, and with a sudden turn of the arms
(one at a time at first) bring the elbows uppermost (see Fig. 34), when you
may gradually straighten them by raising the body
This exercise should be persevered in until achieved, as it will enable the
gymnast to be the better able to do the next.
Fig.  84.
52.-THE TURN-OVER.
Whilst mounted between the ropes as in the last, but previous to straight.
ening them, this exercise must be done.
Lean forward, throw the legs (backward) over the head, allowing them
to fall to the ground, still retaining your hold of'the ropes.
After a little practice, let go the ropes on alighting on the ground, but be
careful how you do it at first.
This is a difficult exrcise, but perseverance will soon overcome the diffi
culty.
PI
47
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Fig. 83.
I 
TO CLIMB THE ROPE.-TIIE SPRING.
53.-To CLIMB THE RoP.
We have introduced this exer                                       cise here, as  it will be  required
Aht~~~ ~            sometimes to reach the cross-piece
at the top, in lieu of doing either
hi~~~ s                \;,of the other exercises.
There are two ways of climbing
the. rope.I
t31          w;1t X~First..-Grasp the rope with both
,~ i          ~,/ KN      hands, and move them alternately
one above the other, and in order
to support yourself whilst so doing,
the feet must be used by pressing
1>,'~~  \  ~the rope between them, as shown
at a, Fig. 35, where the feet are
crossed and the rope is pressed by
i   i hiI 2   aa'the top foot against the under one.
Second.-Grasp the rope  with
[g-~~ [1  - both hands, and without the aid of
your feet move your hands alter                                       nately one above the other, but in
)A i~,~,~ ~so doing the gymnast will have to
make use of the rise and fall exer                                       cise with one hand only, whilst he
raises the other.
These climbing exercises should
be practised on a rope free from
knots, and not too small.
v    as  ~~On descending the  ropedo so
by reversing  the motion  of  the
~Fig. 5.~         feet and hands, or the hands only.
Do not let the rope slip through your hands, as the friction caused by so
doing will be sure to rub the skin off, and perhaps cut the flesh to the bone.
54.-THE SPRING.
This exercise is somewhat similar to that described in No. 41, but it will
be found a little more difficult at first to perform.
Grasp the ropes as in No. 41, and in bringing the legs over open them
so as to pass one on either side of the ropes, which must be brought closer
together (see Fig. 36), theungwhen nearly over, let go the ropes and alight on
the ground.
Do this exercise also with one rope only, when both hands must be in
the same rope.
This is a very clever feat, but it must be done quickly to succeed.
48 
TIE JERK.-THE DESCENT.
55.-TH, JERnK.
Grasp the ropes, one in either hand, and
throw the right leg over the right arm (as
in Fig. 37), or the left leg over the left arm,
letting the other leg hang loosely in front.
Now with a sudden jerk, and at the same
time extend the disengaged arm  a little,
throw the body forward with as great an
impetus as possible, when you will turn
completely over, and in so doing you must
not let go your hold, neither must the leg
slip off the arm.
This is a  very difficult exercise, and
requires great nerve and practice for it.
56.-Ti-E DESCENT. 
This exercise must be done on a single
rope, and the higher it is fixed froze                   Fir. 36.
ground the better.  It should be at least
from fifteen to twenty feet long, and a 56 lb. weight should be attached to
the lower end of it, which should be about a foot from the ground.
mg. 8?.
3
49
Fig. 86.
VI 
THE REVOLVER.-THE GIANT STRIDE.
Climb the rope  as far as you can,
and let it hang in front of you,
and come  down  between  the
legs.  Bring the right leg round
the rope, and hitch the foot
around it again; and having
so done, bring the right arm in
front of the rope (as in Fig. 38),
when you may descend very
gradually, according to the
strain put against the rope by
the leg around it.
The other leg must hang
loosely.
To give this feat a greater ef  fect, the weight should be
twirled round; this will cause
you also to turn round as you
descend.
The hands, whilst descending,
should be placed in as graceful
an attitude as possible.
57. —THE IEvOLVER.
Grasp the ropesa,  one in eah 
hand, throw the legs up and
i  ~~~~~~             hitch one (right) foot in one of
Fig. 8.                   the loopst,    the rweight), anshould bein so
/ At j(|t \ ~~twirled round; this will cause
doing, let go your hold of the loop in wich you hitch your foot, and gras you
the other rope with that hand (the right), carrying the other (left) leg over,
The hands, allow ilst to hadescending down.
\ni ~~~~~~~should be placed in as -,racei'ul
Take care on carrying thude leg over as pojust described, that the (right) foot
does not slip out of the loop.
u                        ~~~~~~~57.-THE~ REVOLv -Er@.
Now with both hands g          rasping  the 0  rope, and on e foot  in t he other,
dull yourself up by moving the hands alternately, and w the legs up a sucient
~~~hheight, place the othne (right) foot (left) in the spare loop, and grasp a rope ofwith
Fg. 38.                                the loops, (the rit), and.    so
Cross the feet one over theold of ther, to keep icthem together, and pgrass the
the other rope with that hand (the ri,,-It), c,-rryin,- the other (left) le,, over,
and allowr it to hang down.
Tae carms to the front, grasprrying the leg ropes, as jstabove showncribed, tabout the (rheight) foot
does not slip otit of the loop.
N~ow with bothi hands grasping the one rop~e, andl one foot in thio otlher,
-pull yourself up by movring, the hands alternately-, and when alp a sufficient
height, place the other foot (left) in the spare loops and grasp a rope with
each hand.
Cross the i'ect one over the other, to keep them together, an-d pass theo
arms to the front, grasping the ropes, as above slionvn, abouit the height of
the hips, lean forward, throwing your feet up slightly behind, and you will
turn completely over.
THE GIANT STRIDE
Consists of a pole, with a swivel at the summit, to which several ropes of
equal length are attached, with small cross-sticks at their extremities.  The
boys take hold of the cross-stick or handle with one hand, grasping the rope
I% 
THE LADDER
with the other (see Illustration), and starting together, commence running
round the pole, leaning the
chief weight of the body on
the hands, and only letting
the tips of the toes touch the
ground  at intervals.   Care
must be taken to keep time,
so that no runner trips up the
companion in front of him, as
this will disorder the whole
economy  of  the  exercise.
After a time, a great velocity
will be attained, and a mere
occasional touch of the toes  i: =     _God
on the ground will be suffi         -
cient  to  carry the  players 
round and round the course,
literally with  giant  strides.   _ i-         __
Care must be taken that the _'
boys vary the direction in
which they run. In all g         ymnastic exercises they should
be taught to depend upon the 
right leg and left leg, end
right arm and left arm equally; and a habit of running  in one direction with
the giant stride, say from righit to left, would give thle right arm and right
leg too much work, and develop them at the expense of the loft lIabs.
THE LADDER.
The  first use of the ladder exercises  in
gymnastics is to give confidence to the boy,
and to teach him to depend on his power of
balancing himself, in mounting or descending,
without the aid of his hands.  To do this,
keep the knees a little bent, and hold the
hands slightly forward in front of the chest,
As shown in the illustration.  KIeep the body
always in the same position, fixing the eye
.pon one point-for instance, the  fourth
ung of the ladder above the lower foot- and
ake care that the eye moves upward in the
same ratio with the feet, always keeping four
aings above the step on which the lower
sot is resting. Observe the same rules in
escending the ladder.
ill,
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51
I 
52       STILTS.-TRICKS AND FEATS OF GYMNASTICS.
To mount the ladder by the hands, stand underneath it and grasp the
sides of the ladder, above your head, and work the hands alternately upward, slightly drawing up the body by the elbows, keeping the feet quito
still. Work your way downward in the same manner. To mount with the
hands by the steps, stand under the ladder, grasping the highest rung you
can reach with both hands; then raising yourself by the elbows, grasp at
the next rung, and so work your way up till you get to the highest. Descend in the same manner.
STILTS
Are  useful in teaching boys to maintain' a balance; a thing many boys
of larger growth find rather difficult of achievement. Of course
learners should never  practise with stilts  fastened at tho
knees, such as we see used by exhibitors, for a fall from a
pair of stilts of such construction would be exceedingly dan           gerous.   The stilts should be long poles  or bars  of wood,
with cross-pieces screwed to them  for the feet to rest on.
There should be nothing like straps or bands to fasten the stilts
to the feet or legs.  The learner must place the stilts in a slightly
inclined position against a wall; then, with his face turned
from. the  wall, let him  place  himself between  the stilts,
and put his right foot up to the footboard of the right stilt, and
thence mount to the left. Thus he will stand in the stilts leaning
against the wall, with the upper part of the stilts resting against
his shoulder-blades, his hands grasping the stilts at the sides,
and his chest thrown well forward. Then let him set off and try to walk.
TRICKS AND FEATS OF GYMINASTICS.
The Book.-Fix an old book between the toes of the feet, and, by a jerk,
throw it over the head.
The Chalk Line.-Draw a line with chalk on the floor; against this place
the toes of both feet; then kneel down and rise up again without leaving
the line, or using the hands.
Stepping Through.-Take a small piece of cane about a foot long, and
holding it between the hands, leap through it. Afterward take a tobaccopipe, and perform the same feat without breaking; after this, join the hands
together, and leap through them, which is not very difficult of accomplishment.
Arnless.-Lying upon the back with the arms across the chest, the
attempt must be made to rise on the feet again.
Hop Against the Wall.-Stand with one toe close against the wall, about
two feet from the ground, and turn the other over it, without removing the
toe from the wall.
Stop if YFou Can.-One boy having placed his heels against the wall,
another must place near his toes,a dime, and tell him he may have it if he
1. 
TRICKS AND FEATS F0? GYMNASTICS.
can pick it up. This he will find to be impossible for him to do while his
heels touch the wall, as there is no room for his back to balance the other
parts of his body.
The Spring from the  Wall.-Placing yourself at a
proper distance from the wall with your face opposite
to it, throw yourself forward until you support yourself 
by one hand.   Then spring back  into your former
position.   Begin this feat at a short distance from the
wall, and increase  the distance  by degrees.   The
"athlete" will, in a short time, be able to stand at
nearly the length of his body from the wall.  This feat
is sometimes called the palm spring, but the palm has
really nothing to do with it.  The thumb spring is
similar, but dangerous, and many have sprained their
thumbs in attempting it.
The Long Reach,.-This is a somewhat difficult feat, and requires great caution in its performance. A line is chalked on the floor, at which the toes
must be placed, and from which they are not to remove. The left hand is
then to be thrown forward in a long reach until the body descends upon it,
without any part touching the floor in its descent; the right hand is now to be stretched
out as far forward as possible, and with a piece
of chalka mark is made on the floor at its fullest
extent, the body being sustained by the left
hand during the operation. The boy should
now recover the upright position on his legs,
by springing back from the left hand without touching the floor in any way.
The length reached, and the perfection with which the body recovers itself,
distinguishes the winner of the game.
The Stooping Stretch.-In this feat a line is
drawn on the floor, at which the outer edge of
the left foot is placed, and behind this, at a short
distance, the right heel   Taking apiece of c      halk
in the left hand, the youngster passes it between the legs, and under the bend of the left
knee, chalking the floor with it as far forward as
he can.  He then recovers his position without moving his feet from the 
line at which they had been fixed.
The  Chair   Feat.-Place
indicated i  th  c   a   l
down  upn  them,the hea
53 
TRICKS AND FEATS OF GYMNIASTICS.
dle chair, which should be much lighter than the others.  Then by stiffening
the body and limbs, and throwing up the chest into a state of rigidity, it
will not be difficult for a boy to remove the middle chair, and to pass it
quite over on the other side of him.
The Poker Feat.-Take a common poker and hold it
the lower end downward, in the manner shown in the
cut, i. e., by the fingers, thumb, and ball of the palm.
Then, by the mere motion of the fingers and thumb
and the fulcrum of the palm, work the poker upward
till you raise it through the whole length to that part
of it which goes into the fire.  This trick depends
mainly upon the strength of the muscles of the hand
and fingers, combined with a certain knack to be ac               \\       quired by practice.
The Stick Feat, or from Hand to Mouth.-Take a piece
of stick of the length of the fore-arm, measuring from the elbow to the
end of the middle finger. i!old it in the hand horizontally before you, the
knuckles being down and the nails upward, and the elbow being on a'line
with the hand. Then raise the left end of the stick from the breast to
the mouth, without any other movement of the hand than the arm at the
wrist. This is a difficult feat, but may be easily acquired by practice.
TIE STICK FEAT.
54 
SKATING.-TIIHE START.
SKATING.
SKATrIG is deservedly popular.  To become a graceful and accomplished
skater requires practice, after a study of the principles involved.  These
things are preliminary to success: The skate to be properly made lna
securely fastened; and the skater to get rid of fear.
Skates may he had in variety-some with high irons and some withI lo-w;
some with narrow and some with broad irons; some with the bottom of the
irons ground at righ t angles with the side, and some with a grdove running lengthways through the bottom of the iron.
For beginner  a rather low iron is best, and squarely ground.  Indeed,
the grooved are apt to fill with ice, or " ball" in the groove; and the young
skiater, instead of "cutting iligh Dutch," will be cut by a fall.
In fastening the skates, those are to be preferred with three straps, one
of whlclic comes around the toes, one around the instep, and one from just
below the heel to a spot above the instep.  Three small spikes, to fit in
corresponding holes in the boct-heel, should 1e) in the heel of the skate.
Theo iron should be at right angles with the surface of the wood, and the
holes in the strap should be at a short distance from each other, so as to
avoid looseness in the strapping, on the one side, and undue pressure on the
foot, on the other.
THE START.
We will suppose tihe novice's skates have been fastened on for him, and
he stands on his feet, on a well-selected piece of ice, neither so smooth as
to increase the difficulty he will find in keeping his feet, nor so rough as to
55
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*  SKATING.
trip him up. As soon as he stands upright, he should start at once. Inclining his body a little forward toward the right leg, he slides forward, with
his whole weight on the right foot, which must be slightly turned outward,
his other foot being slightly
raised off the ice, and kept
behind the right.  (See ~l                                                lustration.) He then brings
the left foot forward, in
its turn, and slides a yard
or two on that foot, and
so  on  alternately.   He
may, at first, make  use of
his hands to maintain his
balance, raising or depress                                 i~     A        m @ aing them, with the fingers
turned upward. He should,
however, aim at skating,
_\\\_===         -      ~ ~after a short time, entirely
____~ ~without  the  use  of his
- -- ___ —---                arms,  which  look  much
Fig. 1.                      better hanging carelessly
by the side, than flung
wildly about in wind-mill fashion.   Some learners make  use  of a stick
at first starting.  This we think a bad plan.  It is better, at first, to have
STOPPING.
The support of a companion, who can skate (Fig. 1), and, by degrees, he may
leave you to your own exertions. The learner should proceed patiently, and
with caution, at first, and be content to increase his speed gradually with
.,5 6
STARTING OFF. 
HOW TO STOP.-VARIOUS EVOLUTIONS.
his knowledge; the opposite extreme, however, must also be a.voided, for no
one ever becomes a good skater who is afraid of a fall. WAhen the inside
edge movement has once been learned, the skater will find that his progress
is greatly hastened by a push given to the ice with the left skate, as he
starts with the right foot, and vice versd; but, above all things, let him
thoroughly understand "'inside edge," and be confident of his own lowers,
before he begins practising the feats we will now describe.  But first the
skater must be taught
HOW TO STOP.
Bring the second foot down upon the ice, and glide forward, with both
feet pointed in front of you, and parallel to each other, like the irons of a
sledge.  Bend. the body forward, and throw all the weight upon the heels
of the skates. Those who wear the skates with rounded heels cannot, of
course, stop in this way, as the rounded irons, instead of sticking into the
ice, would trip their wearer up; he puts the second foot to the ground, at
right angles with the other, pointed entirely sideways, which immediately
stops his career.
HOW TO PERFORM THE VARIOUS EVOLUTIONS.
Before the skater attempts to cut figures and other devices, he must be
able to skate on the outside edge of the skate, to skate backward, and to
turn round. The outside edge implies what it is by its name; when acquired,
it sends you exactly in opposite directions, on both sides, to what the inside
edge does. In explanation: Suppose that you are skating on the right foot,
it is easy to turn to the left, but not so to the right, to effect which you must
use the outside edge, by striking out upon it either foot, inclining, at the
same time, the skate, the leg, the body, and the head toward whichever side
you are skating, holding the other foot raised up behind, and rounding the
arms. The most difficult forward movement is the cross outside edge, which
is done by passing one leg across the other, and striking out with the foot
as it comes down on the ice.  As the foot on which you first rested disengages itself (which it will do as you proceed) from the crossed-leg position, throw that leg over the other, and, by continuing this, you will soon
learn to sweep round on either side with ease. This is called the Mercury
figure.
The salute in a right lIne is not easy of execution.  Having first struck
out, you must place the feet in a horizontal line, elevating and rounding the
arms. Continue the movement as long as you can, or think fit to do so.
This attitude, though difficult, is frequently practised by good skaters.
The salute in a curved line is much easier.  Ilaving started, you put
your feet in the position you would adopt to describe the salute in a right
line (see Fig. 2), only less horizontally. The head and body must be upright,
the arms rounded, the hands placed on the haunches; in this position you
describe a circle. You then draw yourself up, the knees having become
57
3 -* 
SKATING.
slightly bent, and, raising the right or left foot, prepare for another evolution; as either striking out straight forward, or toward one side.
To describe circles and curves will be found the most gracefil and useful
of evolutions.  rb describe a curve on the outside edge forward, fix on some
Fig. 3.
point as a centre, and take a run proportioned to the number of curves you
propose describing.  Strike out on the outward edge, turning in a curve
round the centre fixed upon.  Tour eves must look toward the shoulder
opposite that which directs the general movement of the side on which you
turn.  The hips must be kept in, and the leg on which you are propelled
bent slightly at the knee-joint; thlie opposite leg must also be bent, and
thrown backward, to modify, by its weight and position, the impulse forward, and to insure your equilibrium.
To describe a curve, or circle, on the inside edge forward, you must
select a small piece of cork, or any other light body, as a' centre, take a sufficient run, and strike out on the i-ward edge.  Your head and body must
be in the position described for outward curves, only the leg- on vwhich you
skate must not be bent.  The opposite leg should be almost stiff, and the
foot about eighteen inches distant from the one you rest upon   (See Fig. 4.)
Curves on the inside edge are terminated by stopping in thme usual manner;
but if you desire to pirouette, or turn round, you throwe the foot on which
you do not skate over that on whlich you do, and, from  the impulse given
to your body, in order to (describe the curve, yoe  spin round on the middle
of the skate, as on a pivot. After having done this a few times, you bring
down the foot you are not revolving on, and proceed to other evolutions.
To skate backward, you must incline the head and body slightly forward, in order not to lose the centre of gravity. Strike out behind on
58
- I!, i g. 
VARIOUS EVOLUTIONS.
each foot alternately, and raise
the heel of the skate slightly
up from the ice; by this operation each foot will describe
an arc or segment of a circle.
Should you feel to be losing
your equilibrium, bring both
skates together upon the ice.
This evolution is performed
sometimes on one foot, sometimes on the other, and occasionally on both together, by
the help of a slight motion of
the hips.
Retrograde or backward
curves  differ  from ordinary
curves by their direction only;
and at first sight appear difficult, because a person cannot
the h~~ipg.   4. _I
Fig. 4.
move backward with the same facility that he can go forward. When, however, you are used to this manner of skating, it will appear natural and tolerably easy of execution. The backward curve is of equal importance with
the ordinary curve on the outside
edge, and constitutes the base of
all retrograde or backward figures.
In this evolution the position of
the arms and head is not the                       
same as for the ordinary curve 
on the outside edge.  When executing  the outward  retrograde,
curve, your face must be turned
toward  the left shoulder.  The
backward curve may be extended
to circles, spiral rings, as shown
by Figs. 5 and 6, and be finally
concluded by the pii-ouette.
The oblique stop is the most pro-                   
per to adopt when you are skati           ng_A
backward.  In order to perform it,                    Fig. 5.
when engaged in a retrograde
movement, you bring down on the ice in an oblique and transverse position
the skate on which you are not resting, stiffening at the same time the leg
you thus bring down.  The effect of this manoeuvre is prompt and certain,
and the only variation it admits of is, that it can be performed on either
fnot.
59 
SKATING.
To turn round, bring either
heel behind  the other,  and
you turn as a matter of course.
By  carefully attending  to
the  above  directions,  with
practice, you will be able to
cut the numerical figures, or
any device that you may wish.
The  figure  8  is  the  best
practice, and is described by
completing the circle on the
outside edge forward.  This is
performed by crossing the legs,
and striking from the outside
instead  of the inside edge.
~-')   )   To cross the legs, the skater,
as he draws to the close of the
Fig. 6.                   stroke on his right leg, must
throw the left quite across it, which will cause him  to press hard on the
outside of the right skate, from which he must immediately strike, throwing
back the left arm and looking simultaneously over the left shoulder, so as to
bring him well up on the outside edge of the left skate.  The 8 is formed by
completing a perfect circle, in the manner described, on each leg, before
changing the foot. The figure 3, which is performed on the inside edge
backwards, may next be practised.
No pains should be spared upon this figure, as it is a most elegant one,
and is, besides, the key to all figures.   When  the 3 is once mastered,
other figures become quite easy. The mode of doing it is this: Start on-the
right foot as if going to make an 8, but do it as gently as possible. But,
instead of swinging the left foot round ho as to make a circle, let it iemaia
at leat a foot behind the ei~ght foot   The consequence
~ g =          ~ ~ of doing so is, that when three-fourths of the circle
)    are completed, the off-foot gives a curious sway to
AC   the body, and the skater spins round on his right
foot, changing at the same time from the outside to
D o'~ ~     the inside edge, and cuts the second half of the 3
backwards. When the skater can do this easily
with the right foot, he should practise it with the left; and when  he
can cut the 3 with equal ease with either foot, he should cut two  together, as seen in the drawing. Let the reader here refer to the drawing,
while we trace the skater through it. lie begins with the left hand 3,
starting with his left foot on the outside edge; when he gets to the twist of
the 3 he spins round, and finishes the figure (still with the left foot) on the
inside edge backward. IHis right foot is now at liberty to pass to the top of
the right hand 3, which he cuts in like manner.  Especial care must be
60 
SLIDING.
taken to keep the knees straight, and to preserve a graceful carriage of the
body. If the skater should be so far off his balance as to find any difficulty
in spinning round, he will gain his object by throwing his weight a very
little toward the toe of the skate. The reason why the skater curves round
in this twist is, that the steel of the skate has a curved form; and when for
a momenit the body is quite upright, the whole skate spins round on its
centre, as on a pivot.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS TO BE FOLLOWED BY PER               SONS LEARNING TO SKATE.
1. Let your dress fit closely, but at the same time be of sufficient ease to
insure freedom of motion.  Neither skirts to coats nor full trousers should
be worn.
2. Let flannel be worn next the skin by the delicate, and an extra undergarment by the robust. Let the chest be well defended against the cold. A
piece of brown paper laid between the waistcoat and shirt is one of the
best chest protectors.
3. Be careful in venturing upon the ice, unless it be sufficiently strong to
bear the weight of the number that flock to it; and watch for the increase
of numbers, that you may retire before danger ensues.
4. Avoid rough and very smooth ice, and look carefully out for obstructions thereon; such as small twigs of trees, stones, or "hobbles;" as well
as for rotten ice, cracks where the ice has risen higher on one side than the
other, or holes. Should you suddenly come upon rotten ice, do not stop,
but pass over it as rapidly as possible. Should you fall down upon it, roll
lengthwise toward the firmer part, without attempting to stand or walk upon it.
5. Should the skater fall into a hole, hlie should extend his pole or stick
across it, and hold on to it till assistance arrives; should he have no stick,
he may extend his arms horizontally across the edges of the ice, till a rope
can be thrown to him.
6. After an unlucky immersion in the water, tihe unfortunate skater should
immediately take off his skates, and, if able, run home as quickly as he can.
iHe should then pull off all his wet clothes, take a tablespoonful of brandy
in a glass of hot water, rub himself thoroughly with dry towels, and go to bed.
SLIDING.
SLIDING is performed by taking a short run (gradually increasing the
speed as you approach the slide), and simultaneously jumping on the left
foot, and striking out forward with the right. You maintain your balance
by varying the position of the arms, which are raised upward and slightly
curved, the nails of both hands pointing toward the head.
In accomplishing a long slide, when the impetus you have first acquired
fails to carry you the entire length, it may be revived by slightly stooping,
and then quickly raising your body, at the same time lounging forward with
the right arm as in fencing.
61 
SWIMMING.
SWIMMING.
IT is astonishing how many persons are ignorant of this useful and necessary accomplishment. An American, who has more of the travelling mania
than the native of any other country, should, by all means, be master of it;
as he runs a risk of sudden immersion in water during his wanderings, and,
should he be no swimmer, stands a great chance of being drowned.
A horse, or a dog —indeed, most animals-will swim when thrown into
the water; and, among savages, children are taught to swim at a very early
age. An Indian who could not swim would be a wonder to his tribe.
Among civilized men, however, the proportion of those who swim to those
who do not, appears to be less than one-half. And yet the art of swimming
is easy to learn-a little confidence and care only being required.
In the essential part of swimming, i. e., in the art of keeping the head
above the water, there is literally no skill at all. Confidence in the sustaining power of the water is the oqily secret; and if the novice will only dare
to trust in the water, and will remember three simple rules, he cannot pos.
sibly sink below the surface. These are the golden rules of swimming:
RULE 1.-KEEP THE I-LNDS. A.ND FEET WELL BELOW THIE SURFACE, AND
IIIMERSE THE WHOLE BODY UP TO THE CHIN.
The reasons for this rule are simple, and are based upon common sense.
Every one, with the least smattering of physical science, knows that the
flotation of various bodies is exactly in proportion to the quantity of water
displaced.  No man can stand upright upon the water, because the amount
62 
SWIMMING.
of water displaced by the soles of the feet would not counteract the weight
of the body. And, it will be seen, by the simple carrying out of this principle, that exactly in proportion to the immersion of the body is it sustained
by the water.
All practical swimmers know that when a man swims with his whole
head and part of his shoulders out of the water, he cannot endure for any
length of time, because the force that ought to be used in propulsion is
wasted upon sustaining the body.
Every inch of the body that is raised above thie suirface becomes a dead
weight, pressing the body under water and calling for great exertion on the
part of the swimmer.  Miany persons, when they fail into the water, plunge
about and try to lift themselves out of it, acting as if they wvere attempting
to kneel upon its surface. This action is instinctive, and is one of those
where instinct is inferior to reason. In point of fact, ninety-nine out of
every hundred who perish in the water, drown themselves as effectually as
if they had tied a heavy weight round their necks.
The weight of the head, breast, and arms of a human being is, on the
average, aboutiforty pounds; and when a drowning person lifts those portions of the body above the surface, he practically acts as if he fastened a
forty-pound weight upon his head.
Every one who has attained some knowledge of swimming, and tries to
perform the feat of holding one leg out of the water, is made practically
aware of this fact.
RULE 2.-HOLLOw THE SPINE AND THiiroW TiiE BAC   OF THlE IIEAD UPON
THE SHOULDERS.
Like all the rules in swimming, this is founded upon common sense.
Bulk for bulk, the body of an ordinary human being is about the same as
that of the water.  There are, however, two exceptional portions-namely,
the head, which is somewhat heavier, and the chest, vwhich is much lilghter.
Any one will, therefore, see that it is most essential to support the former
upon the latter, as well as to make the water support both as much as possible.
By hollowing the spine and throwing the back of the head  upon the
shoulders, the heavy, solid mass of the brain is supported by the alr-filled
lungs, and the eyes and nostrils are kept above the surface.  As to the
mouth, that may be above or below the surface, for, if the lips be kept
firmly closed, and respiration conducted through the nostrils, no water can
enter.
The chief object in hollowing the back is, that it aids the swimmer in
keeping his nostrils oult of the water. No viler habit can be found than
that of rounding the back, and there is none which is so difficult to eradicate.
RULE 3.-MOVE THE LIMBS QUIETLY.
A good swimmer is at once distinguished by the ease and quietude of all
his movements. The arms and legs are flung out to their fullest extent,
63 
SWIMMING.
sweep round in the water equably, and are drawn up for another stroke,
without the least hurry. The bad swimmer, on the contrary, never waits
long enough to make a full stroke, but gives short and hurried jerks with
his arms and legs, never extending them more than half their length.
The slow stroke is the vecry essence of good swimming.  Of course, we are
not speaking of racing, when the strokes are necessarily quick and power ful, but merely of the method of obtaining a good and enduring style.
Try how far you can go at each stroke, and do not draw back the limbs
until the force of the stroke is all but exhausted. At first you will appear
to make but little progress; but the endurance of the long, slow stroke is
surprising, and its speed by no means contemptible.
Dr. Franklin, himself an expert swimmer, recommends that at first a
familiarity with the buoyant power of water should be gained; and to ac quire this, he directs the learner, after advancing into the water breast high,
to turn round, so as to bring his face to the shore: he is then to let an egg
fall in the water, which, being white will be seen at the bottom. His ob ject must now be by diving down with his eyes open, to reach and bring up
the egg. He will easily perceive that there is no danger in this experiment,
as the water gets shallower of course towards the shore, and because when ever he likes, by depressing his feet lhe can raise his head again above
water.
The thing that will most strike beginners will be the great difficulty they
experience in forcing themselves through the water to reach the egg, in
consequence of the great resistance the water itself offers to their progress:
and this is indeed the practical lesson derivable from the experiment; for
the learner becomes aware of the very great sustaining or supporting power
of water, and hence has confidence. This sustaining power of water is
shown under many circumstances: thus, a stone which on land requires
two men to remove it, might in water be easily carried by one. A man
might walk without harm on broken glass in deep water, because his weight
is supported by the water. This knowledge of fluid support constitutes the
groundwork of all efforts in swimming, or in self-preservation from drowning.
Dr. Arnot, in allusion to this subject, says that many persons are
drowned who might be saved, for the following reasons:  1. From their believing that their constant exertions are necessary to preserve the body from sinking, and their hence assuming the position of a
swimmer, with the face downward, in which the whole head must be kept
out of the water, in ordler to enable them to breathe; whereas, when lying
on the back, only the face need be above the water.
2. From the groundless fear that water entering by the ears may drown
as if it entered by the mouth or nose, and their employing exertions to prevent this.
3. The keeping of the hands above water, already alluded to.
4. Neglecting to take the opportunity of the-intervals of the waves passing over the head, to renew the air in their chest by an inspiration.
64 
PLACES AND TIMES FOR BATHING AND SWIMMING.
5. Their not knowing the importance of keeping the chest as full of air as
possible, which has nearly the same effect as tying a bladder full of air
around the neck would have.
But although floating in water is sufficient to preserve from immediate
danger, this will not alone enable us to swim. To swim, does not mean
simply to float, but to progress; and progression by this means depends,
like the flight of birds, upon the law in mechanics of every action being followed by a corresponding reaction, but in an opposite direction; and thus,
as the reaction of the air compressed by the downward action of tlhe bird's
wing, causes it to mount aloft in proportion to the force it communicates by
that motion; so, the backward stroke communicated by the simultaneous
movement of the hands and feet of the swinmer, causes his forward progress in the water. When once familiarized with the support derived from
the water itself, he soon learns to make the stroke correctly, especially if
aided and supported by some more experienced friend,-a far better assistant
than corks and bladders.
PLACES AND TIMES FOR BATHING AND SWIMMING.
It is presumed that most young lads who go to bathe will take the opportunity of learning to swim. In crowded cities there are but few places in which
the youngster can learn the art: but in the country there are many rivers,
ponds, canals, or lakes, where both bathing and swimming may be indulged
in without annoyance.  The best kind of place for bathing is on a shelving
gravelly shore, on which the water gradually deepens, and where no
awkward sweep of current may take the bather off his legs.  The spot
should also be free from holes, weeoods, and hard stones; and a muddy
bottom is to be avoided by all means.  Should the banks of such a spot be
shaded by a few trees, and should there be close by an open space for a
run on the grass after the bathe, so much the better; and the young learner
will then have the chief inducement to venture the sudden dip or headlong
plunge.
The best time of the day for bathing or swimming is either before breakfast, between the hours of six and eight in the summer-time, or between
elelen and twelve in the forenoon. Delicate persons should not bathe early
in the morning; and it would be always weil to munch a biscuit before
early bathing at all times.  No one should ever think of entering the water
on a full stomach, or immediately after dinner, and never when over-heated
and exhausted by fatigue.  He should also avoid entering it when cold, or
wilth a headache.  Before bathing, it is best to take a moderate wvalk of
about a mile, and while the system is in a glow, to undress quickly and
plunge in.  It is bad to walk until you get hot, then to sit down and cool,
and afterward to enter the water; many have lost their lives by this.  It
is also very wrong to enter the water during rain, as the clothes are often
wetted or damp, which gives the bather cold.
65 
SWIMMING.
ENTERING THlE WATER.
Having stripped the body, the bather should select the best place on the
bank for going down to the stream; and then proceeding cautiously but
quickly, wade up to his breasts, turn his head to the shore and dip. iHo
then technically, as the boys say, gets his pinch over. Should he not be
man enough to proceed in this way, he should, as soon as he gets his feet
wet, splash some water over his head, and go into the water more gradually,
and try the rapid rush and dip when he gets bolder. He must not attempt
to swim or strike out till he can master the feat of going into the water up
to his armpits, and till he feels himself confident and void of timidity.
AIDS TO SWIMMING.
Many aids have been used for the benefit of young swimmers: corks and
bladders fastened under the arms are the common ones; but they offer dangerous temptations for bathers to go out of their depth, and then should
cramp, cold, or any other accident occur, the event may be fatal.  Besides,
these aids. often slip about from one piece to the other.  We remember, in
our younger days, of the "corks" slipping to the hips, and seeing a young
friend, now an old man, suspended in the water with his head downward;
%Th 
~~
ffi
while collapsing of bladders and of anr-jackets is by no means uncommon.
The plank may be serviceable to enable the beginner to throw out his legs
and feet. A piece of wood, a yard ir length, two feet in breadth, and about
two inches in thickness, will be found best adapted for the purpose. When
the pupil can support himself without the aid of corks, &c., the plank being
thrown into the water, he should grasp one end of it with both hands, and
striking out his legs, push it on before him; but if he let go the plank, he
will probably be left to sink.
The best aid to a young swimmer i: a judicious friend, himself a good
swimmer, who will hold up his head, when he strikes off, by the "tip of the
finger to the tip of the chin," and wi-,o at the  ame time will show him how
66
-.. 
STRIKING OFF s ND SWIMING.
to strike off, and how to manage his hands and feet. It is not a bad plan to
put out a spar from a boat, to which a rope is attached, which the young
learner may make use of by affixing it to a belt round his body under his
arms, which will afford him support while he learns to strike his legs in the
water. The rope may also be held in the hand of a friend, by the side of
the boat, and the learner may strike off hands and feet as the boat proceeds.
The plank is a dangerous aid, from its tendency to slip about, and to take
the swimmer out of his depth,  and although it has many advantages, is
very unsafe.  The safest plan of all is, as we lave before stated, for the
learner to advance gradually up to has arm-pits in the water, and then turning about, to strike slowly out toward the shore, taking care to keep his legs
well up from the bottom, Ligid perseverance in this course w-ill in a very
short time enable the youngster to feel himself afloat, and moving at "all
fours,"-a delight equal to that experienced by the child who first feels that
he can walk from chair to chair.
STRIKING OFF Al,D S~WIIMING.
_   fi  __
In striking off, the learner, hav'ng turned himself to the shore, as before
recommended, should fall toward the water gently, keeping his head and
neck perfectly uprighlt, Y2  breast advancing forward, his chest inflated;
67 
SWIMMING.
then, withdrawing the legs from the bottom, and stretching them out, strike
the arms forward in unison with.the legs. The back can scarcely be too
much hollowed, or the head too much thrown back, as those who do otherwise will swim with their feet too near the surface, instead of allowing them
to be about a foot and a half deep in the water. The hands should be placed
just in front of the breast, the fingers pointing forward and kept close together, with the thumbs to the edge of the fore-fingers: the hands must be
made rather concave on the inside, though not so much as to diminish the
size. In the stroke of the hands, they should be carried forward to the
utmost extent, taking care that they do not touch the surface of the water;
they should next be swept to the side, at a distance from, but as low as, the
hips; and should then be drawn up again, by bringing the arms toward the
side, bending the elbows upward and the wrists downward, so as to let the
hands hang down while the
arms are raising them to the
first attitude.
PLUNGING AND DIVING.
There are two kinds of plung/    ing; that belonging to shallow,
and  that  belonging  to  deep
water. In shallow-water plung  ing, the learner should fling
hi mself as far forward as pos  sible into the stream at a very
oblique angle; and when he
touches  the water,  he  should
raise his head, keep his back
hollow, and stretch his hands
forward.   In  the  deep-water
\  _/
plunge, his body is to descend at a greater angle; his arms are to be
stretched out, his hands closed and pointed, and his body bent, so that his
nose almost touches his toes.
Diving is one of the greatest amusements connected with swimming.
There are many kinds; the two most common and easiest and necessary
modes cf going below the surface, are:
1. The feet-foremost jump.
2. The head-foremost jump.
In the first, the legs, arms and head are to be kept perfectly rigid and
stiff. The pupil must not allow fear; or the strange sensation felt in the
bowels in leaping from considerable heights, to induce him to spread the
arms or legs, or to bend his body.
In the second mode, or head-foremost plunge-which is the safest mode
for persons who are heavily built about the chest and shoulders, if they
68 
SWIMMING UNDER WATER.-SWIMMING ON THE SIDE.
have to enter the water from heights,-the head is drawn down upon the
chest, the arms stretched forward and hinds closed to a point; and as soon
as the swimmer feels that he has left the bank, his knees, which till then
were bent, are to be stiffened. The diver must avoid striking-on the belly
-the general consequence of fear; and turning over so as to come down on
his back or side-the consequence of pushing with the feet. When he has
gone as deep as he wishes, the arms are to be raised and pressed downward.
HOW TO MIIANAGE THE LEGS.
The legs, wvhich should be moved alternately with the hands, must be
drawn up with the knees inward, and the soles of the feet inclined outward; and they should then be thrown backward, as widely apart from
each other as possible. These motions of the hands and legs may be practised out of the water; and whilst exercising the legs, which can only be
done one at a time, the learner may rest one hand on the back of a chair to
steady himself, while he moves the opposite leg. When in the water, the
learner must take care to draw in his breath at the instant that his hands,
descending to his hips, cause his head to rise above the surface of the
water; and he should exhale his breath at the moment his body is propelled forward through the action of the legs. If he does not attend precisely to these rules, he must invariably have a downward motion, and as
the boys say, swim furthest where it is deepest
SWIMMING UNDER WATER.
When under the water, the swimmer may either move in the usual way,
or keep his hands stretched before him, which will enable him to cut the
water more easily, and greatly relieve his chest. If he observes that
he approaches too near the surface of the water, he must press the
palms of his hands upward. If he wishes to dive to the bottom, he
must turn the palms of his hands upward, striking with them repeatedly
and rapidly whilst the feet are reposing; and when he has obtained a perpendicular position, he should stretch out his hands like feelers, and make
the usual movement with his feet, then he will descend with great rapidity
to the bottom. It is well to accustom the eyes to open themselves under
the water, at least in those beds of water that admit the light, as it will
enable the swimmer to ascertain the depth of water he is in.
SWIMMING ON THE SIDE.
In this, the body is turned either on the left or right side, while the feet
perform their usual motions. The arm from under the shoulder stretches
itself out quickly, at the same time that the feet are striking. The other
arm strikes at the same time with the impelling of the feet. The hand of
the latter arm begins its stroke on a level with the head. While the hand
is again brought forward in a flat position, and the feet are contracted, the
stretched-out hand is, while working, drawn back toward the breast, but
not so much impelling as sustaining. As swimming on the side presents to
69 
SWIMMING.
the water a smaller surface than on the waist, when rapidity is required, the
former is often preferable to the latter.
~___..___-.~   =-~ X  _.A
SWIMMING ON THE BACK WITHOUT EMPLOYING THE FEET.
This is twofold: 1. Ja the direction of the feet. The body is placed in a
horizontal position, the fet are stretched out stiffly, and the heels and toes
are kept in contact; then the body is to be somewhat curved at the seat,
the hands are to be stretched flatly forward over the body, and, slowly striking in small circles, the loins are somewhat drawn up at each stroke. 2. In
the direction of the head.  The body is placed horizontally, but somewhat
curved in the seat, the head in its natural pos.tion, the arms are kept close
to the body, with the elbows inclined invward, and the hands describe small
circles from the back to tlhe front, at about a foot and a half from the hips.
These modes serve to exercise and strengthen the arms in an extraordinary
degree without min the least fatiguing the breast.
FLOATING.
The body is laid horizontally on the back, the head is bent backward as
much as possible, the arms are stretched out over the head in the direction
#~\;3>\t[&v\$/ 
of the body, the feet are left to their natural position; if they sink, the
loins must be kept as low as Possible. In this position, the person, which is
70 
TREADING WATER.-THE FLING.
specifically lighter than water, remains, and may float at pleasure. The
lungs should be kept inflated, that the breast may be distended, and the circ-ufmference of the body augmented. In order not to sink while in the act of
taking breath, -which the greater specific weight of the body would effect,
the breath must be quickly expelled, and as quickly drawn in again, and
then retained as long as possible; for, as the back is in a flat position, the
sinking, on account of the resistance of the water, does not take place so
rapidly but the quick respiration will restore the equilibrium before the
water reaches the nose.
TREADING WATER.
This is a perpendicular position of the swimmer, and is of great use to
enable him to save a person from drowning. It is in general thought to be
extremely difficult, but it is very easy. There are two ways of performing
the action: in the first the hands are compressed against the hips, and the
feet describe their usual circle; the other mode consists in not contracting
both legs at the same time, but one after the other, so that while the one remains contracted the other describes a circle. In this mode, hiowever, the
legs must not be stretched out, but the thighs are placed in a distended position, and curved as if in a half-sitting posture.
THE FLING.
The swimmer lays himself flat upon his waist, draws his feet as close as
possible under the body, stretches his hands forward, and, with both feet
and hands beating the water violently at the same time, raises himself out
of the water. In this manner one may succeed in throwing one's self out of
the water as high as the hips. This exercise is very useful, for saving one's
self by catching a rope or any other object that hangs from above the surface of the water, or from any perpendicular height. -
71 
SWIMMING.
SWIMMING ON THE BACK.
In this the swimmer turns upon his back in the water by the combined
motion of the arm and leg, and extending his body, his head being in a line
with it, so that the back and upper part of the head may be immersed, while
the face and breast are out of the water. The hands should be placed on
the thighs straight down, and the legs moved as in forward swimming, tak
<~~~~~'7
ing care that the knees do not rise above the surface in striking them out.
Sometimes the hands are used after the motion of a wing or fan, by which
a slight progression is also made at the same time that the surface of the
body is well lifted out of tihe water.
TIIlRUSTING.
In the thrust the swimmer lies horizontally upon his waist, and makes
the common motions in sTmming.  ITo then simply stretches one arm for.
i1i
fi     _  ___
~ffi  Th___ --
ward, as in swimming on the side, but remains lying upon the waist, and,
in a widely-described circle, he carries the other hand, which is working
72 
THE DOUBLE THRUST.-TO SWIM WIT-I ONE HAND.
under the breast, toward the hip.  As soon as the arm  has completed this
motion, it is lifted from the water in a stretched position, and thrown forward in the greatest horizontal level, and is then sunk, with the hand fiat,
into the water; while the swimmer thus stretches forth the arm, hlie, with
the other hand stretched as wide as possible, describes a small circle, in
order to sustain the body; after this he brings his hand in a largely described circle rapidly to the hip, lifts the arm out of the water, and thrusts
it forward.  During the describing of the larger circle the feet make their
movements. To make the thrust beautifully, a considerable degree of practice is required.  This mode of swimming is useful where a great degree of
rapidity is required for a short distance.
THE DOUBLE TIIPRUST.
In the performance of this the arm is thrust forward, backward, and
again forward, without dipping into the water; in the mean time, the
stretched forth arm describes two circles before it begins the larger one.
TO SWIM LIKE A DOG.
In this motion each hand and foot is usedcl alternately, as a dog uses them
when swimming, as the term implies. The hands are alternately drawn
toward the chin in a compressed form, and then expanded and slightly hollowed, with fingers close, and, as they strike the water, the feet are likewise
drawn toward the belly, and struck backward with a kind of kick, This
mode of swimming is of use to relieve the swimmer, from time to time,
when going a distance.
THE MILL.
The swimmer lays himself on his back, and contracts himself so that the
knees are brought almost to the chin, and while one of the hands keeps the
equilbrium by describing circles, the other continues working. Thus the
body is kept turning round more or less rapidly.
THE WHEEL BACKWARD AND FORWARD.
In the forweard wheel the hands are put as far backward as possible, and
so pressed against the water that the head is impelled under'the surface,
and the feet, by a pressure of the hands in a contrary direction, are rapidly
flung above the head, which in this manner is rapidly brought again to the
surface.
In the backward wheel the swimmer lies upon his back, he contracts himself, the hands, stretched forward as far as possible, describe rapidly small
circles, the feet rise, and as the point of equilibrium has been brought as
near as possible to the feet, the head sinks and the feet are thrown over.
TO SWIM WITH ONE HAND.
The learner, to do this, swims on one side, keeps his feet somewhat
deeply sunk, while the arm, which in the mean time ought to work, is kept
4
73 
SWIMMING.
quiet-and might even be taken out of the water. It is a good practice of
strength to carry, first under and then over the water, a weight of four or
eight pounds.
HAND OVER HAND SWIMMING.
In this process the right hand is lifted out of the water from behind,
swung forward through the air with a kind of circular sweep, to the extent
of its reach forward, then dropped into the water edgeways, and immediately turned-with the palm a little hollowed-downward, the body being
at the same time thrown a little on one side, and the right leg struck out
backward to its full extent. The hand descends toward the thigh, and then
passes upward through the water in a kind of curve toward the surface.
The left hand and leg perform a similar movement alternately with the right,
and the measure of progression attained by these combined similar movements is very considerable.
BALANCING.
Whenf the swimmer has obtained ease and confidence in the water, hlie will
find many things easy which before he deemed impossible. Balancing is
one of these.  To perform it, he has only, when out of his depth, to fall
gently back, with his chin elevated to a line passing exactly through the
centre of his body, from the chin to the toes, then, folding his arms and
remaining perfectly motionless, he may suspend himself perpendicularly:
but if he should extend his arms backward, and pass them gradually beyond
his head, his toes, tips of his knees, abdomen, and part of his chest, with
the whole of his face, will appear, and he will be balanced and float horizontally without the slightest motion
THE CRAMP.
The cramp generally proceeds fromn acidity of the bowels, arising from a
bad state of the stomach, or from the effects of the cold water on the muscular system. Some persons are very subject to it on slight occasions, and
such persons will do well never to go out of their depth.  But should a tolerable swimmer be seized with the cramp, he should not be frightened, but
the moment the cramp is felt in the foot or leg, strike out that foot or leg,
with the heel elongated, and the toes drawn upward toward the shin-bone,
never minding any little pain it may occasion, as he need not fear breaking
a bone, muscle or tendon. Should this not succeed, he should throw himself on his back, and float quietly, and paddle himself gently to the shore.
He may also swim with his hands, like a dog, and practise any of the motions
of the upper part of the body for keeping his head above water till assistance arrives.
SAVING FROM DANGER.
Above all things, the good swimmer should be anxious to save life, and
to rescue those who are in danger, without himself becoming the victim, as it
74 
SPORTS AND FEATS IN SWIMMING.
qdea happens.  The following rules are highly important to be observed:
The swimmer must avoid approaching the drowning person in front, in
order that he may not be grasped by him; for whatever a drowning person
seizes, he holds with convulsive force, and it is no easy matter to get disentangled from his grasp; thereofore, he should seize him from behind, and
let go of him immediately if the other turns toward him.  His best way is
to impel him before himn to the shore, or to draw him behind; if the space
to be passed be too great, he should seize him by the foot and drag him,
turning him on his back. If the drowning person should seize him, there
is no alternative for the swimmner than to drop him at once to the bottom
of the water, and there to wrestle with his antagonist; the drowning man,
by a kind of instinct to regain the surface, when  drawn down to the bottom, usually quits his prey, particularly if the diver attacks him there with
all his power.
For two swimmers the labor is easier, because they can mutually relieve
each other. If the drowning person has still some presence of mind
remaining, they will then seize him, one under one arm, and the other utnder
the other, and without any great effort in treading water, bring him along,
with his head above water, while they enjoin him to keep himself stretched
out and as much as possible without motion.
SPORTS AND FEATS IN SWIMMING.
1. The Float.-In this sport one swimmer lays himself horizontally on
the back, with the feet stretched out, the hands pressed close to the body,
and the head raised forward. The other swimmer takes hold of him by the
extremity of the feet, and, swimming with one hand, impels him forward.
The first remains motionless.
2. Thle Plaarki.-One swimmer lays himself-horizontally, as before, another
lays hold of him with both his hands, immediately above the ankle, and
pulls him obliquely into the water, whlile he extends himself and impels himself forward; thus both the swimmers drop rapidly the one over the other.
3. The Ptckaback Sopring.-One swimmer treads the water, the other
swims near him behind, places his hands upon the shoulders of the first,
and presses him down.  Hie then  aves his hold, and puts his feet upon
his shoulders, and, flinging himself out of the water, pushes the first toward
the bottom. Now he treads water, and the first performs the part of the
second, and so on.
4. The Shove.-Two swimmers place themselves horizontally on their
backs, the legs are strongly extended, and the soles of the feet bear against
each other; each impels forward with all his power, and he who succeeds
in pushing back the other is the conqueror. 
5. The TVrestle.-Two swimmers place themselves opposite to each other,
tread water, and hold their right hands in the air; the question is, who
shall first force his opponent under the water by pressure. Only the head
of the adversary is to be touched, and that only by pressure.
75 
SWIMMING.
THE PRUSSIAN SYSTEM OF PFUEL.
The best of all methods for teaching swimming is that originally intro.
duced by General Pfuel into the Prussian swimming-schools.   By this
method a person may be made a very good swimmer in a very short time.
The apparatus for teaching consists of a hempen girdle five inches in
width, of a rope from five to six fathoms in length, of a pole eight feet long,
and a horizontal rail fixed about three and a half feet above the platform, on
which the teacher stands, to rest the pole on.
The depth of the water in the place chosen for swimming should, if possible, be not less than eight feet, and the clearest and calmest water selected.
The swimming-girdle, about five inches wide, is now placed round the
pupil's breast, so that its upper edge rests on the chest, without getting
tight. The teacher takes the rope, which is fastened to the ring of the girdle, in his hand, and directs the pupil to leap into the water, keeping the
legs straight and close together, and the arms close to the body, and, what
is very important, to breathe out through the nose as soon as his head rises
above the water, instead of breathing in first, as every ~man naturally does
after a suspension of breath. The object of this is to prevent the water
from getting into the throat, which produces an unpleasant feeling of choking and headache. This expiration soon becomes natural to the swimmer.
The pupil is next invited to leap.  IIe is drawn up immediately by the
rope, pulled to the ladder, and allowed to gain confidence gradually. The
rope is now fastened by a noose to the end of the pole, the other end of it
being kept in the hand of the teacher; the pole is rested on the horizontal
rail, and the pupil stretches himself horizontally on the water, where he
remains, supported by the pole. Next the arms are extended stiffly forward, the hands clasped, the chin touches the water; the legs are aso
stiffly stretched out, the heels being together, the feet turned out, and the toes
drawn up.  This horizontal position is important. and muLst be executed correctly.  No limb is permitted to be relaxed.
The movement of the limbs is now taught; tliat of the legs is taught
first.  The teacher first says, loudly and slowly, "One;" when the legs are
slowly drawn under the body; at the same time the knees are separated to
the greatest possible distance, the spine is bent downward, and the toes kept
outward.  The teacher then says briskly, "Two;" upon which the legs are
stiffly stretched out, with a moderate degree of quickness, while the heels
are separated, and the legs describe the widest possible angle, the toes
being contracted and kept  outward.   The teacher then says  quickly,
"Three;" upon which the legs, with the knees held stiffly, are quickly
brought together, and thus the original position is again obtained.
The point at which the motions "two" and "three" join are the most important, because it is the object to receive as large and compact a wedge of
water between the legs as possible; so that when the legs are brought together their action upon this wedge may urge the body forward. In ordi
76 
THE PRUSSIAN SYSTEM OF PFUEL.
nary cases of swimming, the hands are not used to propel, but merely to
assist in keeping on the surface.  By degrees, therefore, "two" and "three"
are counted in quick succession, and the pupil is taught to extend the legs
as widely as possible. After some time, what was done under the heads
"two" and "three" is done when "two" is called out.  When the teacher
sees that the pupil is able to propel himself withi ease, which he frequently
acquires the power of doing in the first lesson, and that he performs the
motions already mentioned with regularity, he teaches the motions of the
hands, which must not be allowed to sink, as they are much disposed to do
while the motion of the legs is practised.
The motion of the hands consists of two parts. When the teacher says
"One," the hands, which were held with the palms together, are opened,
laid horizontally an inch or two under water, and the arms are extended
till they form an angle of 90~; then the elbow is bent, and the hands are
brought up to the chin, having described an arc downward and upward; the
lower part of the thumb touches the chin, the palms being together.   When
the teacher says "Two," the arms are quickly stretched forward, and thus
the original horizontal position is regained. The legs remain stiffly extended
during the motion of the hands. If the motion of the hands is correctly done,
the legs and arms are moved together; sethat while the teacher says "One,"
the pupil performs the first motion of the hands and legs; when he says
"Two," the second and third motions of the feet, and the second of the hands.
As soon as the teacher perceives that the pupil begins to support himself,
he slackens the rope a little, and instantly straightens it if the pupil is about
to sink. Wlen the pupil can swim about ten strokes in succession, he is
released from the pole, but not from the rope. When he can swim about
50 strokes, he is released from the rope too; but the teacher remains near
him with a long pole until he can swim 150 strokes in succession, so that
should he sink, the pole is immediately held out to him.  After this he may
swim in the area of the school, under the eye of the teacher, until he
proves that he can swim half-an-hour in succession, so that should he sink,
the pole may be held out to him; he is then considered fit to be left to himself.
77 
BOATING.
BOATING.
IT would be an interesting study to trace the origin of vessels intended
for conveying people on the water, commencing with Noah's Ark, the
first on record, and coming down through the galleys of the Romans,
and the vessels of the Vikings, to the improved ships of the present time.
But this would take a great deal of time, and our young  readers who are
looking after specific information, would doubtless prefer us to get at once
to the subject in hand.
OF BOATS.
A Boat is properly a vessel propelled by oars.  In a more extensive sense
the word is applied to other small vessels, which differ in construction and
name, according to tile services in which they are emplo(yed.  Thus they
are light or strong, sharp or fiat-bottomed, open or decked, according as they
are intended for swiftness or burden, deep or shallow water, &c.
The Barqe is a long, light, narrow boat, employed in harbors, arld uinfit for
sea.  The Long Boat is the largest boat belonging to a ship, generally furnished with two sails, and is employed for cruising short distances, bringing
the cargo and bales on board, ~c.
The Launch is more flat-bottomed than the long boat, which it has generally superseded.  The ldi2nace resembles the barge, but is smaller.  The
Cutters of a shlip are broader and deeper than the barge or pinnace, and are
employed in carrying light articles, single passengers, &c., on board.
Yawls are used for similar purposes to the barge and pinnace. A Gig is
a long, narrow boat, used for expedition, and rowed with six or eight oars.
The Jolly Boat is smaller than a yawl, and is used for going on shore. A
merchant ship seldom has more than two boats-a long boat and a yawL
.;3 
THE COMPONENT PARTS OF BOATS.
A Wherry is a light, sharp boat, used in a river or harbor for transporting
passengers.  A Punt is a flat-bottomed boat, chiefly used for fishing on a
fresh-water river.  A   kZcff is a small sharp-nosed boat, used in rivers.   A
I)ingy is a very small stiff boat used by yachts.  A liclht is a pleasure sailing-boat.  A Lugger is a boat furnished with sails of a peculiar cut.  A
Funny, called in the Irest a skiff, is a little boat with her bow and stern
nearly alike.  When the bow and stern are both square, this is called a
Scow.  A Bateau and Pun,t are the same.  A  Canoe is a long, narrow boat
hollowed out of the trunk of a tree. - It is sometimes made by stretching
birch bark on light ribs of touch and flexible wood.  In the West the Mandan tribes of Indians used one covered with skins and nearly round.  This
was also used by the ancient B.;itons, and called a Coracle.  An improved
barge is used in New Ywork harbor, where it is known as the Whitehall
Boat.  For races and regattas, a skeleton boat is built long and narrow,
with outriggers upon which the rowlocks are set.
THE COMPONENT PARTS OF BOATS.
Rowing boats consist of the bowhs (1); the stem, or entrance (2); the stern
(8), where are the rudder and the lines for steering; the rowlocks (3), for
giving purchase to the oars; and the thwarts, or seats (4).  At the bottom
are the foot-boards (5), which are easily removed, in order to bail out any
water which may leak into the boat. Besides these parts there is a board
placed across the boat for the feet of the rower, called a stretcher. The
whole boat is composed of one or more planks, called streaks, nailed upon a
light oak framework, called the timbers, or_ribs; and the upper streak, upon
which the rowlocks are placed, is called the wale-streak. Boats with two
rowlocks opposite each other are called sculling boats, and are propelled by
a pair of light oars called sculls, the art being called "sculling." When a
boat is fitted with a pair of rowlocks not opposite each other, it is called
a pair-oared boat. If with two in the middle opposite each other, and two
others, one before and the other behind, but not opposite each other, it is
called a randan.  When a boat has four rowlocks, none of which are opposite one another, it is called a four-oared boat, and so on up to ten oars,
which is the utmost limit in common use for any kind of boat but the pleasure barge, which sometimes has twenty-four oars. The rowlock nearest
the bow is called the bow rowlock, or No. 1; the next No. 2, and so on;
and the oars used in them receive the same number, the one nearest the
79 
BOATING.
stern  being  called the "stroke  oar."   The rowlocks  in river and sea
boats are somewhat diffeibrent in shape though identical in principle, both
consisting of a square space of about the breadth of a man's hand, and both
lying on the wale-streak; b]ut in river boats being generally bounded before
and behind by a flat piece of oak or ash called, respectively, the thowl-pin
and stopper; whilst in sea boats they are merely common round wooden
pins dropped into holes made in the wale-streak, but still receiving the same
names. The thowl-pin is for the purpose of pulling the oar against, whilst
the stopper prevents the oar from slipping forward when the rower is
pushing it in that direction after the stroke.
TIIE OARS AND  SCULLS.
A scull is a small oar used wvith one lhand, and requiring a pair, as in the
case of oars, one being placed in the rowlock on each side the boat, and the
pair being, used by one person wvitlh his right and left hands.  Oars are used
by both hands, and a pair-oared boat consequently requires two oarsmen;
a four-oared boat four, and so on.  Both sculls and oars consist of the same
parts, except -that the handle of the oar is made
al  -' —---— long enough for both hands, as at a.  In every
case tlhere is a rounded handle, a b, a loom,
square in form, and extending from the handle
to the button, or about one-third of the length of the oar; and beyond the
button is the blade, which is first nearly round, and then gradually widens,
until it assumes tlhe form best adapted for laying hold of the water, which
is now found to be broad rather than long, as was formerly thought to be
desirable. The button is a piece of leather nailed on to prevent the oar
from slipping through the rowlock, but only used in river rowing, as it is
not adapted for the rough work which is often met with in sea rowing.
BOATING TERMS.
WEATiER OAR.
Bow OAR, the starboard upright oar towards the bow of the boat.
STROKE OAR, the oar rowed by the strokesman.
STROKESM.AN, the sternmost man of tihe rowers.
STROKESIDE, the port or right side
BOWMAN, the man nearest the bow of the boat.
COcKSWAIN, the man who steers the boat.
THOWL-PINS, the pins which sometimes are used for the rowlocks.
HEADFAST, sometimes called the I2aieter. A rope fixed forward to fasten
the boat after landing.
To UNSHIP THE SCULLS, simply means to take them out of the rowlocks.
ROWED OFf; when this direction is given by the cockswain, all the oars
are laid in with their blades forward.
IN Bow; at this phrase, the bowman gets the boat-hook ready to clear
away for the shore.
80 
BOWING.-MANAGEMENT OF THE OAR.
SEA ROWING.
This is necessarily less elegant than river rowing, because of the rough
nature of the element on which the exercise is pursued. The oar must be
held firmly in the hands, the inside hand being placed at b, and the,outside at a, and both hands grasping the oar between the thumbs and fingers.  The whole art consists in the crew moving backward.and forward
together, called "swinging," and laying ihold of the water as well as they
can, taking care to avoid pulling in the air with great force when there is a
trough or interval between two waves, and on the other hand equally avoiding a heavy wave, which has a tendency to dash the oar out of the hand.
All this requires practice in the rowers, and also in the steersman, called the
cockswain, who should watch for the high waves, and warn his men when a
heavy one is coming.  Hie should also take care to cross the roll of the sea as
much as possible, so as to avoid being struck onthe side of the boat called "the
counter," which would either swamp her or else knock the oars out of the
rowlocks. In this kind of rowing, the "feathering" of the oar, to be presently
described, is not attempted, on account of the roughness of the water, but
it merely is pulled steadily, but strongly, backward, and is then pushed forward in the rowlocks.
RIVER ROWING.
The art of river rowing is capable of a high degree of elegance, and few
sights are more pleasing to a lover of graceful forms than that of a crew of
fine lads, or young men, rowing well together and in good style.  To do
this requires great practice, and attention to a few essential points, which
we will here endeavor to describe.
MANAGEMENT OF THE OAR.
The rower should, as far as possible, take some good oarsman for his
model, and endeavor to imitate him in every respect, which is the only mode
of acquiring a good style. Description is useful in putting the learner in
the way of acquiring what is to be taught, but it is not all-sufficient for the
purpose.  In the first place, the learner should place himself square on the
seat, with his feet straight before him, and the toes slightly turned out. The
knees may either be kept together, or separated considerably, the latter being
in our opinion the better mode, as it allows the body to come more forward
over the knees. The feet are to be placed firmly against the stretcher,
which is to be let out or shortened, to suit the length of the individual;
and one foot may be placed in the strap which is generally attached to the
stretcher in modern boats.  The oar is then taken in hand, raising it by the
handle, and then either at once placing it in the rowlock, or else first dropping
it fiat on the water, and then raising the handle it may gently be lowered to
its place.  The outside hand is placed upon the handle at a, with the thumb as
81
4;-* 
BOATING.
well as the fi;igers above it, while the other hand firmly grasps it lower down
at b, keeping the nut toward the person. The arms are now quickly thrust
forward until they are quite straight at the elbows, after which the back follows them by bending forward at the hips, carefully avoiding any roundness
of thy shoulders. When the hands have reached their full stretch they are
COMMENCElMENT OF THE PULL
raised, and the blade quietly and neatly dropped into the water; immediately
after which, and with the water just covering the blade, the body is brought
back with a graceful yet powerful action, till it reaches a part a little behind
the perpendicular of the back of the seat, when the hands are brought back to
IIDDLE OF TIEF PULL.
the ribs, the elbows gliding close by the hips - and at the last moment, as the
hand touches the rib, the wrist of the inside hand is depressed, the knuckles
being at the same time brought against the chest, and the oar is made to
END OF THE PULL.
82 
MANAGEMENT OF THE BOAT.
rotate ill the rowlock, which is called "feathering" it, and by which it is
brought cleanly out of the water. The next action is to push the oar rapidly forward again, first however restoring it to its original position in the
rowlock, which is effected by raising the wrist, and then darting the arms
forward till the elbows are quite straight, which brings the rower to where
we started from in the description.  In "backing water," the reverse of
these actions takes place. The oar is first reversed in the rowlock, and then
it is pushed through the water with as much power as is needed, and pulled
through the air. When the oars on one side are pulled, and those on the
other are backed, the boat is made to turn on its own water. "' Holding
watetis effected by the oars being held in the position of backing without
moving them.
THE ESSENTIAL POINTS IN ROWING.
1st, To straighten the arms before bending the body forward; 2d, to
drop the oar cleanly into the water; 3d, to draw it straight through at the
same depth; 4th, to feather neatly, and without bringing the oar out before
doing so; 5th, to use the back and shoulders freely, keeping the arms as
straight as possible; and 6th, to keep the eyes fixed upon the rower before
them, avoiding looking out of the boat, by which means the body is almost
sure to swing backward and forward in a straight line.
MANAGEMENT OF THE' BOAT.
Every boat without a rudder is manceuvred in the water, either by pulling
both sides alike, in which case it progresses in a straight line, or by reversing the action of the oars, equally on both sides, pushing them through the
water instead of pulling them, and called backing wvater, when the boat
recedes; or by pulling one side only, on which the boat describes a segment of a circle, which is made smaller by pulling one oar, and backing the
other. By means of a rudder the boat is made to take a certain course,
independent of the rowers, called "steering," the chief art in which consists in keeping the rudder as still as possible, by holding the lines "taut,"
and avoiding pulling them from one side to the other more than is absolutely
necessary. Some steersmen think it necessary to swing backward and for
83
RETURN OF THE SCULLS. 
BOATING.
ward with a great effort, but this is quite useless, and the more still they
keep the better. Every cockswain should know the course of the stream or
tide; and when meeting other boats, he should, if he is going down stream,
give them the side nearest the shore, so as to allow them the advantage of
the slack water, which is quite prejudicial to him. When a crew are steered
by a competent cockswain, they ought to be perfectly obedient to his commands, rowing exactly as he tells them. His orders are communicated by
the following words, viz.: when desiring his crew to row he says, "Pull all;"
or if wishing any one oar to be pulled, he says, "Pull bow," or "Pull No.
3," or 4, etc., as the case may be. If they are to stop rowing, he says'"Easy
all," or for any one oar, "Easy bow," or No. 2.  The same kind of order is
conveyed when "backing" or "holding water" is desired; the only variation, as before, being between confining his order to any one or more oars,
or extending it to all. In this way all the evolutions practicable on the
water are managed, and the cockswain has complete control over the boat,
being able to cause her to be rowed slowly or quickly, or to be stopped,
backed, or turned on her own centre.
LANDING.
If the tide be in your favor, bring the boat in a rather slanting direction
toward the place of landing, so that as you reach the place the tide may
take the stern down, as it is always best to land stern to tide.  When you
get to the landing-place, unship the sculls as before directed: but instead of
letting them lie alongside, lay them in the boat, with the looms aft and the
blades forward; then take hold of the headfast, jump ashore, and fasten the
boat safely. This applies to river rowing; but in landing on the sea-shore
when there is a swell, a little more care must be used; your boat, however,
will be larger and stronger manned. In this ease you must watch for a
smooth; as soon as you have it, "give way" with all your power to the
shore. The bowman must be ready to jump ashore with the painter in his
hand, and pull the boat up out of the reach of the surf; all hands must jump
out, after having first laid in their oars as before directed, and help him if
he is not strong enough.
Launching a boat from the beach is sometimes a more difficult affair.
When there is a considerable swell, and the boat is large (it will of course
be strongly manned), the two bowmen get into the boat, with their oars
ready to act; the other men equally divided lay hold of each side of her
gunwale, entering the water with her and forcing her head to the sea.
They must not, however, all jump in until she is fairly afloat, for if she were
to ground and ship a sea, the probability is that her head would be turned,
and that the next sea would capsize her before they could prevent it. In
such cases, loss of life is by no means uncommon. But when the boat is
afloat her head is sometimes turned for want of readiness on the part of the
rowers; in such case, let two bowmen with oars or boat-hooks go to the
bow on the lee of the boat, and by forcing them into the strand push the
84 
REMARKS.-FAULTS TO BE AVOIDED.
head of the boat seaward. Lying broadside to a sea is very dangerous, but
if care and decision are used the boat can generally be kept head to sea;.
in fact, it is much more easy to keep it so than to return it, when the surf
has once thrown it toward the shore.
A FEW IMPORTANT REMARKS ON CUTTER ROWING.
Each oarsman must be particular to take his time from the strokesman.
While rowing he must be strictly under the orders of the cockswain.
Let it be ever kept in view, that keeping time and keeping stroke are the
two great points for an oarsman's attention.
When there is any swell on the water, caused either by the paddles of
steamboats or rough weather, care should be taken always to keep the boat's
head well facing it.
FAULTS TO BE AVOIDED.
Catching Crabs.-This term implies the act of falling backward from
the seat, through not taking hold of the water in the attempt to pull.
Not Keeping Time.-Independent of the awkwardness of the appearance,
this habit will be an effectual bar to your rowing in concert with any master of the art. Not keeping time, recollect, is not putting your oar into the
water at the same time as the stroke oar.
NVot Keeping Stroke.-This, be it observed, is totally different from the
preceding fault. It is not doing work at the same time as the stroke
oar; and this may be neglected even when you have kept time by putting
your oar in the water at the same moment as the strokesman did his. Though
not so unseemly, it is yet the most destructive fault that can be committed;
for it must be evident that the speed of the boat must depend upon the
simultaneous and equal effort of its whole crew. Recollect, therefore, that
the pull should commence the moment the blade is properly immersed in
the water.
Doubling the Body over the Oar at the end of the Stroke.-This prevents the
shooting of the arms and body simultaneously forward, which is a most important feature in good rowing.
Jerking is a fault to which men who are powerful in the arms are particularly liable; as, instead of throwing the body gradually back, and thus partially pulling by their weight, they depend solely upon the muscles of their
arms. They, therefore, give a violent muscular effort, which not being continued by falling back, the stroke ends, as it were, too soon, producing a
jerk, which destroys the uniform swing throughout the boat, and thus decreases the propulsive power, and ultimately tires out the man. It is very
annoying to the other part of the crew.
Rowing Round.-This fault arises from not entering the water deep enough
at the first. The rower feels that he has not sufficient resistance (and is in
danger of catching a crab), he consequently deepens his water with ~e
85 
BOATING.
blade of an oar, forming a portion of a circlb, and brings the flat part of the
blade perpendicularly to the water, thereby tending to drag the boat down
by its pressure; this is a great fault, and must be avoided
Slacking the Arms Too Soon.-This not only decreases the power of the
stroke, but generally causes a positive impediment to the boat's rapid progress; for the habit is generally accompanied by one or two additional
errors, viz., either feathering the scull before it is out of the water; or
allowing the boat to carry it along. In the first, you add to your own labor;
in the second, you, to a certain extent, stop the boat. Very light boats are
apt to cause these faults. The remedy in such a case is, to dip the scull
deeper at the commencement of the stroke; but the learner must recollect
that the same faults are committed in ordinary boats.
Throwing up water in rowing must be carefully avoided.  It is excessively
annoying to those on the same side of the boat.
Capping the end of the oar with the hand has a very awkward appearance, and conduces greatly to other faults.
Rowing with a round back is another very common fault, and must be
avoided, because considerable loss of power is the consequence.
We have now recapitulated most of the faults to which rowers or oarsmen
are subjected, and, taken in conjunction with the preceding directions, our
hints cannot fail to make any person theoretically acquainted with the art, if
he will take care thoroughly to comprehend what we have written.  Practice, however, must be had to make a good oarsman. A good theory in the
hands of a practical person may lead to perfection; neither theory nor practice alone will do so. The learner must not be disheartened by the difficulties he will be sure to meet with during his first attempts with the oar or
scull, not the least unpleasant of which will be his habit of catching crabs.
86
I 
SAILING.
SAILING.
ALTHIIOUGII the sailing exercise of boys will necessarily be confined to a
small boat, it is proper that they should be made acquainted with the dist'mction between larger vessels, and be furnished with a vocabulary of terms
belonging to the art of sailing.
All sailing vessels are set down under the term ships, but, strictly speak.
ing, a Ship is a vessel with three masts that are square-rigged; that is, the
yards which support the square-sails are rigged at right angles to the masts.
But all the sails are not square, the jib being triangular, and the spanker
bow-sided, but not square. The hula or body of the vessel is divided into 
the forecastle, before the foremast, the waist, between the foremast and
mainmast, and the quarter-deck, which is abaft or behind the mizzen-mast.
These masts whose names you have had given you, are fitted with other
masts, slipping into each other, and securely connected for the purpose of
bearing its appropriate sail   Thus, the foremast or forward one is the
foremast, and bears the foresail; the mast above that is the foretopmast,
and bears the foretopsail; the ene above that the foretop-gallant.mast, and
bears the foretop-gallant-sail. The mainmast is divided in the same way
into mainmast, maintopmast and maintop-gallant-mast, which bear seve rally the mainsail, maintopsail and maintop-gallant-saiL The mizzen-mast
is furnished with a sail rigged on the plane of the vessel's length, or "fore
and aft;" and the bowsprit or jib-boom, which projects from the front at
87 
SAILING.
more or less of an angle, supports with the foremast a triangular sail called
the jib, also rigged fore and aft; and has another mast attached to it, called
BRIG,
the flying-jib-boom, which supports the flying-jib. There are usually square
sails above the top-gallant-sails, that are called "royals," and distinguished
sCHOON i
by the names of the masts to which they are attached. Then there are additional sails, projecting on either side of the square-sails, that are wed inlight
88 
SLOOP.-DUTCH GALIOT.
winds, called studding-sais, and the booms, which support them, are attached
to the extremities of the several yards. Between the masts are also triangular sails, called stay-sails.
SLOOP.
A Brig is rigged on the same principle as the ship, but has only two
masts; being a ship, as it were, with the mainmast taken out.
____                     \\\\
DUTCa  O'tiOT.
89 
SAILING.
A Schooner is a vessel with two masts, rigged fore and aft. She may
carry gaff-topsails, which are triangular sails, set above the main and fore.
FELUCCA.
sails, or one or two square topsails before. In the last case she is usually
called a "topsail schooner."  A schooner has sometimes three masts, and is
known as a three-masted schooner, or as a shfp-riggedfore and aft.
A Brigantine is a schooner, with square sails on the foremast, foretopmast, and foretop-gallant-masts; being a topsail schooner, with the addition of a foresail.
An Hermaphrodite Brig, vulgarly called a "morfydite," is brig-rigged fore,
and schooner-rigged aft. It is almost peculiar to this country.
CHIEsE
A Sloop is a vessel with one mast, and the sails, which consist of a mainsail, jib, and gaff-topsail, rigged in the plane of its length. The North
River sloops are celebrated for their fast sailing.
90 
CHARACTERS OF A YACHT.
A Dutch Galiot is rigged like a schooner, but of a broader and more
Chinese build, her bottom being nearly flat.
A Billy-boy is rigged sometimes like a sloop, and sometimes like a schooner;
but her bottom is nearly flat, and she draws but little water.
A Smack is a small vessel with one mast, like a cutter, used principally
for fishing.
A  Felucca has two triangular sails, is used in the Mediterranean, and is
particularly swift. It can also use oars in calm weather.
A Junk is a Chinese vessel, used either for war or merchandise. It is
built very heavily.
A Lugger has two or three masts, with sails hoisted on yards, something
like a cutter's gaff-topsail, and some of them carry a jib.
-A Proa is used by the natives of the Ladrone Islands, and is remarkable
for its swiftness and sailing close to the wind. The lee-side is quite straight,
and the weather-side is convex, like a common boat. Both head and stern
are equally sharp; and in working her there is no necessity to tack or turn
ffi~
PROA.
at any time. Besides this peculiarity of construction, the proa has on her
lee-side what is called an "out-rigger," which is made of two poles, extending about ten feet from her side, having at their extremity a piece of solid
wood. This prevents her from having any leeway. She-will sail with a
good wind twenty miles an hour.
We will now speak of the vessels we have most to do with-viz., yachts.
CHARACTERS OF A YACET.
Speed, safety, and accommodation are the three first qualities of a yacht.
She ought to be pleasing to the eye when afloat, of such a breadth as to
carry her canvas with ease, and at the same time so sharp in her bow and
,        ~~~~~~~~~
91 
SAILING.
well shaped astern as to displace her weight of water smoothly and gradually, while she leaves it in the same way.
VARIOUS KINDS OF YACHTS.
Yachts are of various kinds, according to their size. If more than eighty
tons burden, the schooner is most suitable; for, as the spars are more
numerous, they are proportionably lighter. The schooner, as has been
before observed, has two masts-the foremast and mainmast; the one
bearing the sail called the boom-foresail, and the other a mainsail. She
has two or more head-sails, called stay-sail, forestay-sail, and jib. Her topsails are either square or fore and aft.
The Cutter has one mast and four sails-viz.: mainsail, maintopsail,
foresail, and jib. Some smaller craft have larger jibs, and no foresail.
The Dandy-rigged Yacht differs from a cutter, in having no boom for her
mainsail, which can consequently be brailed up by a rope passing round it.
She has a mizzen-mast standing in the stern, which sets a sail called a mizzen,
and which is stretched on a horizontal spar, projecting over the stern.  This
style of rig is more safe for a yacht, as the boom in ordinary cutters is
liable to sweep persons overboard; and the sail can be taken in quicker by
brailing it up than by lowering it down.
The Hatteener has only two sails, a fore and mainsail, of a triangular
shape. Each has a spar standing from the deck to the peak of the sail, and
a boom at the bottom, like a cutter. This rig, from setting more canvas
abaft, is well adapted for narrow waters.
DESCRIPTION OF THE CUTTER-YACHT.
But the vessel with which we have most to do in our directions for sasiling is the Cutter-Yacht, which stands closer to the wind than any other
92 
CONSTRUCTION OF TI-IE HULL.
kind of boat; and of which we propose, in the first instance, to give a general description.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE HULL.
The first step in the construction of the hull is laying down the keel or
backbone of the vessel; which is done by fixing a strong piece of wood,
generally oak, upon blocks, that the rest of the timber may be securely
added; the stem is then joined to the fore-post, nearly at right angles, slanting a little forward as it ascends; and the stern-post to its after or hinder
part, sloping upward and backward. The timbers and ribs are next cut out
of solid wood, and placed transversely on the keel, their width varying
according to the lines of a plan previously drawn out-being,  of course,
farthest apart at the beam; these, as well as the planks of larger craft, are
LI//I
TIlE AMERICA
made to bend into the required shape by being steamed and bolted in while
hot. The skeleton being completed, her planks are then secured by copper
or iron nails to the timbers, and riveted. The deck is made of narrow
planks, running fore and aft. From the level of the deck, her sides are
raised by upright timbers, called "stancheons," cased over by the bulwarks,
and surmounted by a rail called the " gunwale." Some yachts are only halfdecked, the after-part being left open and fitted with seats; but, in order to
prevent the water from getting in, a portion of deck, called water-ways, is
left at each side; which opposes a further barrier by its terminating on the
inner edge in a high crest or combing. The stepping the mast requires
great care, since the good or bad sailing of the boat depends very greatly
upon it. The model of the celebrated yacht, "The America," after all thestudy and ingenuity that have been applied to yacht-building, seems to
93 
SAILING.
resemble the simple yet beautiful model which nature has given us in the
duck. The bow of this vessel rises very gradually for some distance along
the keel, like the breast of the duck; and, further imitating the same
model, her beam or widest part is abaft, or further back then the centre.
This superior vessel will sail nearly four points off the wind. We have now
glanced at all the principal parts of the hull, except that all-important part,
the rudder; which swings by a hinge from the stern-post, and is moved by
a handle fixed to its upper part, bearing the name of "a tiller," and which
is used to steer the boat. Before proceeding with our instructions for sailing a yacht, it will be necessary to describe the action of the rudder; as the
art of steering is the nicest and most important branch of seamanship.
The rudder is a flat board, with a pole rising up on the side, which is
fastened to the vessel; on the top of which is fixed the tiller. In large
vessels there are two ropes fastened to the tiller, which are carried through
blocks on each side of the vessel; then brought
back through blocks fastened on the mizzen                            mast,  and passed round a wheel, by which
means a greater command is obtained over the
rudder.  When  the tiller is moved to the right
(starboard), the rudder, of course, is forced in
-q~  ~          the water to the left (port).  As  the vessel
moves on, the water presses against the rudder
on the port side, and thus forces her stern to
the starboard side, and her bow to the port.
When the tiller is moved to the left, it of course
produces a contrary effect.  If the ship is moving backward, then, by moving the tiller to the right, the bow is also turned to the right; for the water
presses against the rudder behind it on the left side, and thus pushes the
stern to the left. In steering, care must be taken not to steer too muchthat is, not to move the rudder too violently, or more than is necessary-as
this materially stops her way.
We here present the young yachtsman with a cutter at anchor, with her
ropes and spars numbered; and which ought to be thoroughly known, as
well as the uses to which they are applied in sailing a yacht:
1. Stem.   11. Vane and Spindle.
2. Stern         ~12. Cross-trees.r
3. Tiller.  13. Trussle-trees..
4. Anchor.        14. Gaff.
5. Cable.        ]5. Boom.
6. Bwspit.16. Topmast-shroud.
t  Bobstay.17. Topmast-backstay.8. Mast.         18. Topmast-stay.
19. Runner and  Tackle.
20. Traveller for Jib.
94
1. Stemr
2. Stern.
3. Tiller.
4. Anchor.
5. Cable.
6. Bowsprit.
7. Bobstay.
8. Mast.
9. Topmast.
10. Truck.
21. Forestay.
22. Topping Lift.
23. Lift Blocks.
24. -Mainsheet.
25. Peak Halliards.
28. Foresheet.
29. Signal Halliards.
30. Companion.
31. Forecastle.
32. Rudder. 
SOMETHING ABOUT THE MASTS, SPARS, ROPES, ETC.
ANi      \
AT ANCHOIO.
SOMETHING ABOUT THE MASTS, SPARS, ROPES, ETC.
The Mast (8) is a spar set nearly upright, inclining a little aft, to support
yards and sails. In a yacht, it is kept in its place by two shrouds on each
side, made of strong rope, and fastened to the sides of the vesseL
95
IS    ED
::~~~~~~/
===~~~~~~~~~~~~ m=I I 
(]UTTE'R BEFORE THE WIND. 
SAILING.
The Bowsprit (6) is a spar carried out from the forepart of a yacht, secured
at its inner end between two strong posts piercing the deck, called "the bitts."
It is kept in its place by the bobstay (7), which is fastened to the stem, and
by a shroud on each side secured to the bow.
The Boom (15) is that spar which sets out the mainsail below, and is
attached at one end to the mast by a swivel cable, called the "goose-neck,"
and is eased off or hauled in at the other by the main-sheet (p4), which is a
rope passing from the end of the boom through a block on the side of the
vessel.
The Gaff (14) sets out the mainsail above, and slides up and down the
mast by means of a crescent end, which embraces it. The sides of this
curve are called "horns."
The Topmast (9) stands above the mast, and is made to slide up and down.
On it a topsail (i. e., a gaff-topsail) is set in light winds; but both sail and
mast are generally lowered in squally weather. It is kept steady by a backstay (17) on each side of the foretopmast stay. The latter is brought down
to the bowsprit.
Ropes.-There are various ropes to hoist and lower sails, called halliards;   There  are  also  other ropes of great  importance,  especially
those called the sheets, which are to haul in the sails, and make them
stand to the wind. In a yacht, the mainsail has sometimes a sheet on each side;
and sometimes only one sheet reevedthrough
double blocks, which travel on an iron rod,
called a "horse," from side to side. The jib
has two sheets, the starboard and port (right
and left). The foresail has the same, except
in some instances, when it has but one sheet
working on a traveller, like the mainsaiL
The topsail has only one, which is rove
through a sheave at the end of the gaff, and
a block at the throat of the gaff, and then
down to a cleat or fastening place on the
deck. Signal halliards are for hauling up
the colors, and pass through a small sheave
in the truck (10), at the end of the topmast.
The ensign halliards are reeved through a
small block at the peak end, and lead down to
the boom.  The other ropes on board a yacht
are for the support of the spars, and are called "standing-rigging," while
those used for the sails are called "running-rigging."
We trust we have given our young readers a tolerable idea of a cutteryacht.  We will now proceed to describe the common sail-boat, a little craft,
not so complicated in construction, and one which our juvenile friends will
learn how to manage more readily.
96
T
TOP-)IAST AND FORETOPMAST STAY. 
THE SAIL-BOAT.
THiE SAIL- BOAT.
The sailboat is sloop-rigged, with or without a jib; but differs in the fact
that she has no main boom nor gaff, the sail being kept up by a sprit. Her
rig may be described as follows: She has one mast, with a mainsail, A, and
a foresail, B; one mast, a sprit 1; and a short bowsprit, 2. The mast will
:.,a.ve one shroud on each side, and a forestay to the stem, each set up by
'nyards.  The mainsail will be hoisted by a main halliard passing through
. hole, or over a sheave in the mast, and it is a very good plan to have this
-ole or sheave above the shrouds, as also the hole for the fore-halliards, one
,ole being above the other. The sprit fits into an eye at the peak of the
r,insail, and into a becket or snotter round the mast; and large boats have a
ope to hoist and keep up the snotter. In small boats, the snotter, when
.-etted, sticks tight enough to the mast.  The mainsheet works on a horse at
hre stern.  The fore-halliards pass through a hole in the. mast-head, and the
oresail is laced to the forestay.  The foresheets lead through holes in the
nees.  To set tlhe sails, hoist the mainsail by the  main-halliards chock
p, or as far as it will go, and then belay the main-halliards to one of the
ezts; then catch hold of the peak of the mainsail, and double the main,a,l round forward of the mast; then put the upper end of the sprit into
ihe eye, and shove the sprit up.  To do this properly requires practice; in
a rge boats there is a lashing to keep the eye from blowing off the end of
hio sprit, and the beginner may put a lashing if he likes. Then put the
Ower end of the sprit into the snotter, and hoist the snotter up the mast
5
I
I
,x
97
I
I
a 
SAILING.
till the mainsail begins to wrinkle from the tack to the peak; then haul the
mainsheet taut, and belay it till you are ready to start. The foresail is
usually wrapped around the forestay; untoggle the sheets and unwrap the
foresail, then toggle on the sheets again, ship the tiller, ana the boat will be
ready.
The usual small sail-boat, however, is rigged without a foresail or jib,
and the mast, in order to balance it, is set somewhat forward of the spot
where it stands in the cut. It has no shroud or forestay, being merely
shipped into a thwart running across the boat, and secured in a step below.
It is set, too, with more of a rake, or pitch backward, than in the cut.
Such a boat, which can be safely and easily managed by one, is the best for
the young yachtsman.
Getting into his little boat, the beginner, who should have a skilled grown
person with him as companion, will soon learn the principles on which a
boat tacks or is put about, how to jibe safely, how to reef the mainsail and
the foresail and how to fit a reefed snotter, how to stow the sail and moor the
boat, and how to pick up moorings and to come alongside.  Sailing boats are
usually made fast by a chain to a stone under water, when the boat gets
under way, the chain is let go, and is picked up again by a rope, one end of
which is made fast to the chain, the other to a piece of wood or small cask
called a buoy. To pick up this buoy again, sometimes the sails are lowered
and the boat runs at it, but usually the boat is taken to leeward, and at the
proper distance is luffed up, so as to come head to wind, and stop as nearly
as may be over the buoy; and to do this with certainty requires much
practice. The beginner should go where he has plenty of room, taking out
a buoy or piece of wood, and practise picking that up till he can measure
his distance pretty accurately. To do this, however, and in fact to sail a
boat at all, a clear understanding of the principles of sailing is of great
assistance.
TO SAIL A BOAT.
Everybody can understand how a boat can sail before the wind-a box for
a boat, with a coat or umbrella for a sail, can do that, but to sail with the
wind on the side, or to make way against the wind, is far more difficult;
in fact, persons not accustomed to it often doubt the possibility of doing so.
In explaining this, we will consider the sails as quite fiat, for the nearer
they can be brought to flatness the better, and wherever they are not fiat
there is a loss. Supposing the sails, then, to be flat, and the wind to strike
them, part of the force is lost (as will be understood on mechanical principles), part of it presses against the flat surface of the sail, and perpendicularly to it. This tends partly to drive the boat ahead, partly to drive the
boat bodily to leeward, and if the boat was a box or tub, she would go in a
direction between the two; but as boats are usually constructed, they are
sharp at the fore-end, and the surface opposed in that direction is not more
than one-seventh of the surface which the nearly flat side opposes-hence
98 
TO SAIL   CO MOAT.
the boat is driven easily ahead, but only a little or not at all to leeward;
and boats are constructed so as to oppose as little resistance ahead and as
much on the side as possible.  Any boat will sail with the wind astern, and
most boats will sail with the wind on the quarter-i. e., blowing in any
direction between the stern and the broadside; but only good boats will sail
/with the wind on the bow or before the beam, and then not when the wind is
more than four points before the beam, reckoning by the thirty-two points
of the compass, and to do that, the sails must be well set, and the boat
pretty good. To explain how this is effected, let us suppose a boat with her
head pointing exactly toward the wind, then her sails will only flap about
and tend to drive her astern. Now suppose her bow gradually turned
away from the wind; if the sails are hauled pretty flat, after a time, usually
when her bow is four points or the eighth of a circle off from the wind, the
sails will fill with wind, and, on the principles already explained, she will
move ahead. And it is obvious that, after having gone some distance in
this direction, she may be put about and go at a similar angle to the wind
in the other direction, and will thus have advanced against the wind, or
towards the quarter'from which the wind is blowing. This is called tacking
or turning to windward, and to do this well is the greatest proof of a good
boat or of good sailing. In sailing to windward, the sails are trimmed or
hauled aft to an angle which varies for each boat, and must be found by experience; they should be kept just full of wind-if empty they are doing
no good, or even harm; if too full, the boat is off her course, and not doing
her best to windward. A rough rule is to keep the flag or vane just over
the mainsail. Boats ought always to carry a weather helm-i. e., the bow
should have a tendency to turn toward the wind. Putting weight in the
bow makes the weather-helm stronger, putting it in the stern or increasing
the head sails has the reverse effect. When the wind is on the starboard
or right hand side of the vessel, she is said to be on the starboard tack;
when the wind is on the port, larboard, or left side, she is said to be on the
port tack; and when vessels meet, that which is on the starboard tack either
keeps straight or luffs, that which is on the port tack gives way and passes
to leeward.
To sail with the wind on the bows the boat must have a keel. In a sail boat this is generally made movable, sliding up and down, within a well in
the centre, and is sometimes called the sliding-keel, but more generally the
centre-board. A skiff may be made to tack by holding the flat blade of a
scull deep in the water, against the side of the boat, on the leeward side;
but this is inconvenient.
While engaged in learning how to manage a boat it is as well to get an
old sailor to teach you how to make the various knots, splices, and
hitches for which you will have constant occasion.
Having informed the young sailor of what is necessary to be done on
board, we will now impress on his mind a few useful nautical terms and
maxims, which may lead to the preservation of life and limb.
99 
SAILING.
OF THE MARINER'S COMPASS..
The ancients, whose only guides over the trackless waters were the heavenly bodies, so often obscured by clouds, could not venture far from shore.
It is the compass which has enabled us to steer boldly across the deep.
The directive power of the loadstone has been long known to the Chinese,
and it was brought over to Europe about the year 1260. The communication of the magnetic power to steel and suspending it on a pivot, is undoubtedly a European invention. The compass is composed of a magnetic
needle suspended freely on a pivot,
NA, ~~~and supporting a card marked with
... ~ N! ~~~ %         the thirty-two points of direction
4%  X d g l  Am\ ~into which the horizon is divided,
and which are  thence called the
yip~ ~ x ~ t\1              /~points   of  the   compass.   The
IBM g Glneedle always points nearly north,
E  and the direction of the boat may be
H easily seen by'looking at the card.
The whole apparatus  on board a
\&\/D  \A~y/ute//           ship ig enclosed in a box with a
glass cover, to allow the card to be
U)'/):          ~  wP0  /seen withoutbeing disturbed by the
wind.  This box is also sometimes
suspended, to prevent the needle
being affected by the motion of the vessel. The whole is then placed at the
binnacle, in sight of the helmsman. In the inside of that part of the compass-box which is directly in a line with the bow, is a clear black stroke,
called the lubber line, which the helmsman uses to keep his course; that is,
he must always keep the point of the card which indicates her course pointing at the lubber line. Every young yachtsman miust learn to box the compass: that is, to repeat all its points in order.
CAUTIONS AND DIRECTIONS.
1. Never leave any thing in the gangway, and keep the decks clear.
2. Coil up all ropes; and have a place for every thing, and every thing in
ts place.
3. Take care that in tacking or jibing the boom does not knock you overoard.
4. Stand clear of ropes' ends and blocks flying about, when you are tackng, and the sails shaking.
5. Keep a good look-out ahead, and also for squalls, which may generally
e observed to windward.
6. Alwvays obey the orders of the steersman promptly.
7. Keep all your standing rigging taut.
'8. When the boat is on the wind, sit on the weather side.
100 
NAUTICAL TERMS.
9 Should the boat capsize, keep yourself clear of the rigging and swim
ashore.
The young yachtsman should on no account attempt to take command of
a boat till he is thoroughly experienced, and should never go in one without
having at least one experienced hand on board; he should always have his
eyes open to what is going on, and be ever ready to lend assistance with
the greatest promptitude.
NAUTICAL TERMS.
We shall now give a few of the most common nautical terms, by which
the gear and different parts of a vessel are known. For the most part, we
shall speak generally, but when we speak particularly of a rope or sail, and
the vessel is not named, the reader must apply our remarks to the cutter, as
the vessel best adapted for a yacht.
IHaul, to pull.
Taut, tight.
Starboardc, to the right.
Larboard, to the left.
Close-hauled; or, on the wind; or, flying to windward, steering close to the
wind. Cutters have good way within five points of the wind; squarerigged vessels not within six.
Wind on the beam; or, sailing free, sailing with the wind across the waist
of the vessel; her head is then eight points from the wind.
Before the wind, sailing with the wind right aft, or behind you, that is,
with the head sixteen points from the wind.
Sailing with the wind abaft the beam, sailing with the head of the vessel
more than eight points from the wind, but not sixteen.
Sailing with the wind before the beam, with the vessel's headless than eight
points from the wind, but not close-hauled.
Luff, keep nearer the wind; keep your luff, means, keep close to the
wind.
Belay, make fast.
Steady, keep the helm amidships.
11aul aft, more towards the stern.
Put the helm down, put the helm to leeward.
Put the helm up, bring it to windward.
Leeward, the point to which the wind blows.
Windward, the point from which the wind blows.
Ship the tiller, fix it in the rudder head.
Unship, means, of course, exactly the reverse of the above.
Jibe, the act of bringing over the sail from one side of the vessel to the
other.
Bend the sail, fix it in its proper place.
Bowse the sail well up, pull it strongly into its place.
'101 
Te throat of the mainsail (a fore and aft sail), that part of the sail which
is fixed to the peak close to the mast.
17Te Peak, the stick which is at the top of a fore and aft sail.
The Boom, the stick which is at the bottom of a fore and aft sail.
Head-sails, any sails at the head of a vessel;  in cutters, foresail, forestaysail, jib, and any others she may carry before the mast, except a squaresail, which is sometimes used for running before the wind.
Fore and aft sails, such sails as the mainsail of a cutter when stretched
fore and aft, by its sheets. (See description of cutter and engraving.)
Sheets, the ropes by which the lower sails are made fast in the position
desired; we say, for instance, "Hiaul taut the foresheet," which means,
tighten the foresheet. Each sheet is distinguished by the name of the sail to
which it is attached; for instance, the mainsheet means the sheet belonging
to the mainsail; in like manner, jibsheet, foresheet, &c. The jib, however,
has two sheets, one on each side of the forestay, for the convenience of
tacking; the foresail has but one, which is made fast to the traveller of the
foresheet horse; as the boat tacks, the traveller enables the foresail to pass
from one side of the boat to the other.
Foresheet horse, a bar of iron which crosses from one gunwale to the other,
to which the foresheet is fastened by means of a traveller; it is an inch or
two above the deck.
Traveller, in the case of the foresheet horse, is the ring that passes backward and forward along the foresheet horse, as the foresail is jibed from one
side to the other. Speaking generally, the term means an easy ring attached
to a sail, and running upon a boom bowsprit or mast, to enable you to haul
out or haul up a saiL
Yards, the sticks by which square-sails are set.
Square-sails, such sails as the main-topsail of a brig.  (See description
of a brig and engraving.)
Tack, to turn a vessel from one side to the other, with her head toward
the wind. When a vessel is obliged to tack several times to get to windward, we say she is beating to windward; when she is tacking to get
up or down a channel, we say she is beating up or down;-by the by, in
rough weather she often gets a beating in the attempt; when tacking to get
off a lee shore, we say she is clawing off.
Halliards, the rope by which signals or sails are hoisted. We say, for
instance, "haul taut the peak halliards," which is an order to hoist the peak
of the sail well up.
Lee runner and tackle, a substitute for a backstay; used in cutters, on
account of its being easily removed when going before the wind.
Stays: in tacking, the vessel is said to be in stays from the time the jibsheet is let fly until the foresail draws.
Bobstay, the rope fixed at the end of the bowsprit, and fastened about
half way  down  the stern.   Chains  are frequently  used for this  purpose.
102
SAILING. 
NAUTICAL TERMS.
Backstays, forestays, etc., etc.: each of these denote the particular part the
rope supports. The former are ropes from the after part of the head of the
top-mast of a cutter-rigged vessel to the after part of the chains on each
side of the ship; the latter is a rope from the topmast-head to the farther
part of the bowsprit; it there passes through a block and comes in by the
stern-head, and is then made fast to its cleat.
Cleat, a projecting piece of wood or iron, to which sheets or halliards are
made fast.
Shrouds are also supports to the masts.  Each shroud is distinguished by
the part it is intended to support-for instance, the bowsprit and mainshrouds.
The main-shrouds are the ropes fastened at the end of the bowsprit, and
extending to each side of the bows.
Boom-guy, a small tackle, one end of which is hooked to the main-boom,
and the other forward, to prevent the boom from swinging.
Topping-lift, strong ropes, which are near the end of the main-boom, and
led through blocks on each side of the mast, just under the cross-trees, from
whence it descends about half way, and is connected with the gunwale or
deck by a tackle.
Bow-line, a rope made fast to the foremost shroud, and passed through a
thimble in the after lurch of the fore-sail, then round the shroud again, and
round the sheet.
Thirble, a small ring, of iron or brass, inserted into the sails.
Cringles, short loops of rope, with a thimble inside them, and spliced to
the lurch of the sail
Gaskets, ropes made by plaiting rope-yarns.
Slack: take in the slack; draw in the loose rope.
Lanyard, a small rope.
Beef: taking in a reef, is tying in a portion of the sail
Reef-teckle, a small tackle formed by two hook-blocks, one of which is
hooked to the under part of the boom, about one-third of its length from
the mast; and the other, farther aft. The fall is belayed to a cleat under
the boom.
Eaaring, a short rope used in reefing, one end of which is made fast to the
boom, at the same distance from the mast as the cringle, to which it belongs;
it ascends and passes through the cringle, then descends and passes through
a sheave on the side of the boom; then it is passed on board and stopped
to the boom by means of its lanyard, or small line spliced into its end for
the purpose; this lanyard is also to make it fast when the sail is reefed and
the tackle removed.
Bowsprit.fid, a bolt of iron that passes through the bowsprit bits and the
heel of the bowsprit, to keep the bowsprit in its place.
Bowsprit bits, two stout pieces of wood, between which the bowsprit
passes.  If the reader has noticed the way a carriage-pole is fixed,'.h will
readily conceive how the bowsprit is fastened between the bits.:'
,,, 
103 
SAILING.
Channels, the places on the side of the vessel to which the shrouds are
fastened.
The quarter of a vessel, is the place on either side at which'the side and
the stem meet.
JIidships, midway between the sides of the vessel.
Abeamin, at right angles with the keel of the vessel.  The term has risen
from the beams of the vessel lying that way.
Cast her: in first making sail, it means placing the head of the vessel ill
the most advantageous position.
c k
Wear, to; to come round on the other side of the wind, without backing.
Let A B be the vessel, G the direction of the wind; A B is sailing in
the direction B C, and wants to change her course to A D; if she tacks,
she traverses the direction C I  D; if she wears, she goes off from the
wind in the direction C E D.
IHeldm's-a-kee, the call of the helmsman when his helm is hard down in
tacking.
Ready about, a command for all hands to be ready in tacking.
104 
HORSEMANSHIP.
HORSEMANSHIP.
RIDING.
AMo,NG the possessions which the boyish imagination pictures as treasures
of price, a horse or a pony, if it be even the smallest sheltie that ever wore
a shaggy mane hanging over his brows, will always hold a foremost place.
What boy, who has ever been the master of a pony, does not remember the
triumphant pleasure he felt on the day when his proprietorship began?
How he rejoiced in his new acquisition I
Now, what we want to do in the following pages is, to give our young
readers such information about that noble animal, the horse, as shall make
them appreciate him more than ever, from a knowledge of his real qualities
and usefulness; and we want, moreover, to enable them not merely to
admire the horse with an ignorant wonder, because he is beautiful to look
at, but because they all know about him; besides, no boy who does not know
how to manage a horse, and what to do in case of accident or emergency,
should ride one.  IIe only who can trust in his own knowledge and resources can really be called independent. Any one of our young readers
may at any time be taught, by practical experience, that knowledge is
power, and ignorance weakness; and, therefore, before boy of ours was
intrusted with a pony, we should take good care that he knew something
of the parts, qualities, and character of the horse, and that the new acquisition would not suffer in his hands.
The parts of the horse will be understood by a reference to the cut and
explanation on the following page.
5*
105 
HORSEMANSHIP.
TERMS USED BY HORSEMEN.
C...-                I'r 
-Do
F"'
AA.  Point of hock, or ham.
BB.  IIaiiistring.
CC. Thigh, or gaskin.
DD. Quarter.
EE. Dock.
FF. Crouip.
GG. Hlip.
ttII. Loins.
II. Brek.
JJ. Withers.
KK. Crest.
LL. Poll.
A. Forehead.
B. Face.
C. Muzzle.
D). Jowl.
E. Gullet.
F. Windpipe.
G. Point of the shoulder.
It. Breast, or bosom.
I. Arm.
J. Knee.
K. Canno(n.
L. Larg,e pastern.
M. Small pastern.
The left side of a horse is called the "near side," and the right, the "off
side."  We now come to
THE MARKS OF AGE IN THE IIORSE.
By means of the gradual wearing down of the front teeth, or nippers,
the age of the horse may be known.  Each of the nippers has a hollow in
its upper surface. which is very deep and black when the tooth first rises
above the gum, and is gradually effaced by the friction caused by the cropping of the grass, or by biting at the manger, or other kinds of rubbing;
but as these vary a great deal according to circumstances, so the precise
degree of wearing away will also be liable to fluctuations; and the rules
laid down only approximate to the truth, without positive accuracy as to a
few months. There are also two sets of teeth; a milk set, which first rise,
4
106
O. Hoof.
P. IHeel.
Q, Flank.
R. Sheath.
S. Stifles.
T. Coronet.
U. Hock.
Y. H-foof.
W. SmMl pastern.
X. Large pastern
Y. Fetlock.
Z. Cannon. 
THE PACES OF THE HORSE.
beginning at once after birth, and a permanent set, which replace the milk
teeth as they fall out. The milk teeth come up two at a time, but all are
up by the end of the first year. The permanent teeth, also, make their
appearance by twos, the first pair showing themselves in the place of the
two middle milk teeth in the third year, and being generally level with the
other milk teeth by the end of the fourth year, by which time the next pair
have fallen out, and the permanent teeth have shown themselves in their
places. At five years of age the horse has lost all his nippers, and his corner
permanent teeth have nearly completed their growth. The tusks are also
above the gums.  The centre nippers are now much worn,  and the next
are becoming slightly so.  At six years old the "mark" in the centre nippers
is quite gone; at seven years of age this disappears from the next pair, and
at eight from the corner nippers; after which, none but a professed judge
is likely to make out the age of the horse by an inspection of his mouth;
and, indeed, at all times the tyro is liable to be deceived by the frauds of
the low horse-dealer, who cuts off the top of the teeth, and then scoops out
a hollow with a gouge; after which a hot iron gives the black surface
which in the natural state is presented to the eye. This trick is called
" bishoping."
THE PACES OF THE HORSE.
The natural paces of the horse are the walk and the gallop; to them are
added by man the trot and the canter, and sometimes the amble and the
run. In the walk, each leg is taken up and put down separately, one after
the other, the print of the hind foot in good walkers generally extending a
107 
HORSEMANSIIIP.
few inches beyond that of the fore foot; but in ponies this is not often seen,
and generally the short, quick walk shown in the foregoing sketch, is the pace
of that little animal. The order in which the feet touch the ground is as
follows: 1st, the right fore foot; 2d, the left hind foot; 3d, the left fore
foot; 4th, the right hind foot.
The gallop consists of a succession of leaps, during a great part of which
all the feet are off the ground. As the feet come to the ground they strike
it in regular succession; but the exact order will depend upon the lead,
which may be either with the left or right fore leg. When the lead is with
the right fore leg, the right hind foot comes down first, then the right fore
108
N.  
FORM OF A HORSE.
foot and left hind leg, and lastly, the left fore foot. In the trot, two legs of
opposite sides are moved exactly together, and touch the ground at the
same moment; whilst in the amble the two legs of each side move together,
and the horse is supported for the instant upon the half of his usual and
regular foundation. To counteract this deficiency in the centre of gravity,
the body is balanced from side to side in a waddling manner.
VARIETIES OF THE HIORSE SUITABLE FOR BOY,.
Besides the several kinds of horses suitable for grown people, those for
boys are the galloway, the cob, and the pony. The first of these may be
considered either a small horse or a large pony, and it usually about four
teen hands high; and though strong and capable of carrying weight, yet of
a moderately light and active make.  Hie is so called from the district where
he was originally bred in large numbers. The cob is a thick and very strong
pony, or galloway, frequently made to look still more so by cutting his
tail and mane short, called " hogging" them, as in the above cut.
Many ponies are now bred almost of pure Arabian blood, and they are
well suited for lads who have mastered the early difficulties connected with
keeping the seat under all ordinary circumstances; but as they are generally very high spirited, they are scarcely suited for the beginner, and he
had better content himself with an animal of more plebeian pedigree and
sluggish temperament.
FORM OF THE HORSE.
It is a common observation of the horseman that the horse can go in all
forms; and this is borne out by the fact that he does occasionally do so;
but nevertheless, it is well known, that among a large number it will be
found that those whose form is most in accordance with the shape consid
109 
HORSEMANSHIP.
ered the best by good judges, will turn out the best movers. In technical
language, the horse whose  "points" are the best will be the best horse.
These points are considered to be: a neat head, well set on a lean, wiry
neck, the latter with a very gentle curve, whose convexity looks upward
(the opposite form to this makes the "ewe neck"); moderately high withers; a sloping shoulder, wide in the blade, which should be well furnished
with muscles; strong, muscular loins; a croup not too straight nor too
drooping, with the tail set on with an elegant sweep; ribs well rounded, and
carried back near to the hips, so as to make the horse what is called "well
ribbed;" circumference or girth of good dimensions, indicating plenty-of
"bellows' room;" thighs and arms muscular; hocks and knees bony and
large, without being diseased; cannon bones large and flat, with the suspensory ligament and tendon large, strong, and clearly defined; fetlock
joints strong, but not round and inflamed. The eye should be full, clear,
and free from specks; and the ears should be moderately small and erect;
the feet should be round, and not contracted at the heels, with a well-formed
frog.
THlE ACCOUTREMENTS AND AIDS
Required by the young amateur, are either a pad or a saddle, according to
his age, together with a bridle and a whip or stick. Spurs are seldom
d
ct.
L —
desirable for any but the accomplished rider, as they are apt to irritate the
pony if not used with discretion, and it is rather difficult to put an old head
110
ljIt
ff  —!! E
I
_ 
THE ACCOUTREMENTS AND AIDS.
upon young shoulders. If the learner is very young, a pad which is made
without any tree affords a better hold for the knees than a regular saddle,
and will also enable him to ride without stirrups, which feat he will hardly
manage on an ordinary smooth saddle. The foregoing illustration will give
our young friends a good idea of the saddle and bridle.   a  is a single
bridle or snaffle; b is a double bridle, or curb and snaffle combined.
The saddle consists of a pig-skin,
strained and stretched over a wooden 
tree raised in the front at the pommel
(); and behind, also, is a long ridge 
called the cantel (d), between which is the
seat.  The sides are made up by the flaps  
(e).  Attached to the tree above, and 
lying on the flap, is the stirrup leather 
supporting the stirrup (f).  Underneath
the flap is a false and Added flap, on
which  lie the  girths  g), which  are
buckled to leather straps, fastened to
the tree above.  The stirrups are of the
annexed form, but are often, for boys,
made much  lighter, which, however,
is a mistake, as the foot is much more
easily thrown out of a light stirrup than
from a heavy one.  They ought always
to be used with strong stirrup leathers,
and  these    should be attached to the    sad-                  if
dle by spring-bars, which release the stirrups in case of thee leg being entangled
in them after a fall.  The groom should             2 
always remove the leathers after the
ride, and replace them on the oppo site side of the saddle, by which means        3                      3
their tendency to hang, as shown at
a, is rectified, and they assume the
position indicated by the one marked b, both representing the left or near
side.
The bridle is either a single or a double reined onre, according to the
mouth of the pony ridden. A single-reined bridle is usually a snaffle, it
being very improper to allow any one to ride with a curb alone, unless he
has very steady and light hands. The snaffle bit is merely a jointed bar of
iron (5 5) in the accompanying sketch, but when used alone i:has a light
cross-bar, as well as the ring there shown, in order to prevent the bit being
pulled through the mouth. This, however, in the double-reined bridle is
omitted, since it would interfere with the action of the curb. Snaffles are
either smooth or twisted, and are made of all sizes, the smallest being only
illi 
IIORSEMANSHIIP.
adapted for occasional use, and not for the hands of the learner, who should
have a large smooth one. The curb-b;.t consists of three parts: the mouthpiece (1), which usually has a bend in it called the port, for the purpose of
pressing against the roof of the mouth; secondly, of the cheek-piece (2),
which has a ring (3) at the lower end for the attachment of the rein, and
another at the upper end for the head-piece of the bridle; and thirdly, the
curb-chain,4). This chain is pressed against the outside of the lower jaw
by the upper arm of the curb used as a lever, and it should be hooked up
sufficiently tight to act upon it by pulling the rein, whilst at the same time it
should be loose enough to prevent its fretting the jaw. This delicacy of
adjustment requires some little practice, and the young rider should always
ask his teacher to show him the proper mode of applying the curb-chain.
Sometimes a martingale is needed, in order to keep the pony's head down, but
generally the young rider is better without it, if he will keep his hands
well down, and avoid all jerking of the mouth.
IMOUNTING.  g
The rider, even at the earliest age, should at first examine the girths and
the bridle, and see if they are properly adjusted; for though when leaving
home he may be able to depend upon a steady and experienced groom, yet
after putting up at strange stables, he is liable to be led into an accident by
careless servants, and therefore it is better to get into the habit of always inspecting these essentials to safety and comfort. If there is an attendant groom,
he brings the pony up to the place where the expectant rider is standing, and
then holds him there, keeping in front of him with a rein in each hand, or,
if the animal is fidgety, laying hold of both reins with the left hand, and then
pressing him toward the rider by the right. The next thing to be done is
for the rider to stand at the shoulder of the pony with his left side toward
that part.  He then lays hold of the reins with his left hand, drawing them
4 i
112
- I 
DISMOUNTIM4-THE MANAGEMENT OF THE REINS.   113
up so short as to feel the mouth, and at the same time twisting a lock of
the mane in his fingers so as to steady the hand. Next, the left foot is
placed in the stirrup, when the attitude is presented, exactly as shown in
the preceding page. At this moment a spring is given from the right foot,
the right hand reaches the cantel of the saddle, and the body is raised till the
right leg is brought up to the level of the left, when the slightest imaginable
pause is made, and then the right leg is thrown over the back of the pony,
while the right hand leaves its hold, and the body falls -into its position in
the centre of the saddle; after which, the right foot has only to be placed
in the stirrup to complete the act of mounting.
DISMOUNT ING
Is exactly the reverse of the last process, and requires, first, the reins to be
shortened and held in the left hand with a lock of the mane; secondly, the
right leg is taken out of the stirrup, and is thrown over the back of the
horse until it is brought down to the level of the other leg. After this, if
the pony is of a small size, suitable to that of the rider, the body is gently
lowered to the ground, and the left leg is liberated from the stirrup; but if
the horse is too high for this, the foot is taken out of the stirrup by raising
the body by means of the hands cn the pommel and cantel of the saddle, and
then the body is lowered to the ground by their assistance.
THIE MANAGEMENT OF THE REINS
Is of great importance to the comfort of the rider, and also to his appearance, for unless they are held properly, the body is sure to be awkwardly
balanced.'When the single rein is used, the best position is to place the
middle, ring, and little fingers between the two reins, and then to tum' 
HORSEMANSHIIP.
both over the fore-finger, where they are tightly held by the thumb. In all
cases the thumb ought to point toward the horse's ears, by which the elbow
is sure to be kept in its place close to the side, and a good command of the
reins is insured. If a double-reined bridle is employed, the middle finger
separates the two snaffle reins, and the little one those attached to the curb,
all being turned over the fore-finger, and firmly held by the thumb. In both
cases the ends of the reins are turned over the left, or near side of the pony's
shoulder. When it is intended to turn the horse to the left, it is only necessary to raise the thumb toward the chest of the rider; and, on the contrary,
when the desire is to turn him to the right, the little finger is turned downward and backward toward the fork. In many well-broken ponies the mere
moving of the whole hand to the right or left is sufficient, which, by-pressing
the reins against the neck, indicates the wish of the rider, and is promptly
responded to by the handy pony. This action, however, is objected to by
some good horsemen, though, in our opinion, most erroneously, as it is capable of being made highly effective in practice.
THE SEAT
Should always be square to the front, without either shoulder being in
advance; the loins moderately arched inward, without stiffness; the elbows
close to the side, but held easily; the knees placed upon the padded part of
the flap in front of the stirrup leathers; toes turned very slightly outward,
and the foot resting on the stirrup, the inside of which should be opposite
the ball of the great toe, and the outside corresponding with the little toe.
The heel should be well lowered, as far as possible beneath the level of the
toe, which gives a firm seat. But the great point is to obtain a good grasp
114 
THE CONTROL OF THE HORSE.
of the saddle by the knees, which should be always ready to lay hold like
a vice, without however constantly tiring the muscles by such an effort.
The left hand is now to be held very slightly above the pommel of the saddle, and the right easily by the side of it, with the whip held in a slanting
position, as at page 107, in which, however, both hands are much too high
above the withers. In order to show the effect of an incorrect mode of
holding the reins, the rider has only to place his hand with the knuckles in
a horizontal position, and the elbow is sure to be turned out in a most awkward manner.
THE CONTROL OF THE HORSE
Is effected by the reins, heels, voice, and whip, variously used according to
his disposition and temper.  Some  require only the most gentle usage,
which, in fact, is almost always the most efficacious, especially by young
people, for whom the horse and dog seem to have an especial affection, and
to be always more ready to obey them than might be expected, when
their want of strength to enforce their wishes is considered. The youtng
rider will therefore generally find it to his own interest, as well as that of
the noble animal he bestrides, to use his whip and heel as little as possible,
and to effect his object solely by his voice and the gentlest pressure of the
bit. In this way the most high-couraged horses are kept in order by young
lads in the racing stables, and the amateur will do well to follow their example. It is astonishing how fond horses and dogs are of being talked to by
their juvenile riders, and it is right to gratify their love of society by so
doing on all occasions. The reins serve, as already explained, to turn to the
right or left, or by drawing tight to stop the horse, and, on the contrary, by
relaxing them to cause him to proceed, aided if necessary by the voice,
heel, or whip. When it is desired that the right leg should lead in the canter or gallop, the left rein is pulled, and the left leg pressed against the
flank, by which means the body of the pony is made to present the right side
obliquely forward, and by consequence the right leg leads off. On the other
hand, if it is wished to lead with the left leg, or to change  from the
right, the right rein is pulled, the right leg pressed to the side, and then
the left shoulder looks forward and the left leg leads off.
MANAGEMENT OF THE WALK.
When it is wished to make the pony walk, he must be quieted down, by
soothing him with the voice if he has been excited by the gallop or trot;
and then by sitting very quietly in the saddle, and loosing the reins as much
as will allow the head to nod t unison with the action of the body and
legs, the walk is generally at once fallen into, and there is no farther difficulty except to prevent a stumble. A tight rein is not desirable in this
pace, since it prevents that liberty of action which is required, and leads to
a short walk, or very often a jog-trot; and yet there should be such a gen
115 
tie hold, or preparation for a hold rather, as will suffice to check the mouth
in case of a mistake. This is a very difficult art to acquire, and is only
learned by long practice; but as few ponies fall at this pace, great liberty
may generally be allowed to their mouths. Beside this, little is necessary,
more than to sit steadily, but not stiffly, in the saddle, and not to sway about
more than is sufficient to avoid the appearance of having swallowed a poker.
THE TROT AND CANTER
Are effected by rather different methods, but both require a very steady
hand, and a quiet treatment. In order to cause the pony to trot, the reins
are taken rather short in the hand, and the mouth is held somewhat firmly,
but taking great care not to jerk it.  The animal is then slightly stimulated
by the voice, and the body, if necessary, rises from the saddle, as in the trot,
so as to indicate what is wanted. This seldom fails to effect the purpose,
and the horse at once breaks into a trot; or, if very irritable, he may be
compelled to do so by laying hold of an ear and twisting it, to avoid which
he drops his head, and trots as a natural consequence. The canter is also
an acquired pace, and for its due performance a curb-bridle is required. In
order to make the pony begin this pace, the left rein is pulled, and the
is;;'~\
.a
rider's left leg pressed against the side, by which the horse's right leg is
made to lead off, this being the most usual, and certainly the most comfortable, "lead" for the rider.  The hands must make a very gentle and steady
puil on the curb-rein, and the body generally must be very quiet in the saddie, whilst, at the same time, a very gentle stimulus is given by the voice,
which must be repeated at short intervals,' or the canter will be changed to
a trot or walk, both of which are preferred to it by most ponies and horses.
116
HORSEMANSHIP. 
THlE MANAGEMENT OF TTIE GALLOP.-LEAPING.
Young riders should avoid cantering long upon one leg, as it leads to
inflammation of the joints, and they should either change the lead, or alter
the pace to a trot or walk.
THE MANAGEMENT OF THE GALLOP
Requires Lttle instruction, practice being the main agent in effecting a good
seat during this pace. The seat is either close to the saddle, with the body
inclining backwards (p. 109), or standing in the stirrups, in which position
the knees and calves only touch the saddle, and the body is bent forward
over the withers (p. 108). It should be the endeavor of the rider, while
he bends his shoulders forward, to throw his loins well back, so as to avoid
straining the horse's fore-quarters, by bearing too much weight upon them.
This is done by the hold of the knees on the saddle, and by keeping the
feet back; also by rounding the loins-backward, anrid thus throwing the
centre of gravity as far as possible behind the stirrup leathers. The object
of standing in the stirrups is to save the horse when at his full gallop, as in
racing, or in hunting, wt*n he is going over ploughed ground, or up hill. In
either of these cases, this attitude allows the horse to exert himself without
feeling the weight of the rider to impede his movements more than can be
avoided.
LEAPING
Is only an extra exertion added to the ordinary spring of the gallop, the
attitude being exactly the same. It is best learned by beginning with small
ditches, which the rider is soon able to clear without difficulty. He may
next try very low fences;  but the latter, being strong and firmly fixed, are
dangerous to the rider, unless the pony is very sure of clearing them. A
117 
HORSEMANSHIP.
leaping-bar, if procurable, should always be adopted in preference to either,
as a fall over it is not attended with any bad consequences. The groom
should place it at the lowest notch, and the pony then may be suffered to
clear it at a moderate gallop; after which, if the young rider is able to sit
pretty closely, he may be indulged with a higher notch, and gradually it
may be raised, until the limits of the pony's powers are reached.  In riding
at a bar, the learner should lay hold of a snaffle-rein in each hand, taking
care to keep them close together, by the right rein being held also in the
left hand. The pony is then to be urged to a smart canter or hand-gallop,
and held straight to the bar in this way, so that he is obliged to leap; aor,
if disliking the act, being urged by the whip down the shoulder, or the
spur, or the groom's voice and whip behind. Young riders, however,
should never be put upon a bad or reluctant leaper, but should be taught
upon one which is fond of the amusement. At the moment of rising into the
air for the leap, the reins are relaxed, but should not be left quite loose, and
the body of the rider inclines forward; while the pony is in the air, the
body becomes again upright, and as he descends, it leans well back, until,
after a high leap, it almost touches the croup. During this period, the
reins should be suffered to remain nearly loose, the hand barely feeling the
mouth; but as the pony reaches the ground a stronger hold is taken, in
order to guard against a mistake, which might require the aid of the rider
to prevent a fall. It is not that he can keep the animnal up, but that he
checks him, and makes him exert himself in a double degree. There are
various kinds of leaping; as the flying leap, the standing leap, the leap in
hand, etc.  The flying leap is merely one taken at a fast pace, and when the
rider can maintain a good seat in the gallop, it is the easiest of all to sit.
The standing leap is effected from a state of quiescence, and is much more
difficult to sit, because the horse rises and falls more suddenly and abruptly.
Between the two is the slow or steady leap, which is only effected safely by
the clever hunter or well-broken pony; but when perfect it is almost as
smooth as a rocking-horse. This is the mode in which the young rider
should be taught to leap. The young rider, when he meets with a gate or
other strong fence, which hlie knows is too much for the powers of his pony,
at once gets off and leads him over by the rein; and when well taught,
these little creatures will often tilt themselves over high timber, etc., in a
marvellously clever manner, so that we have known them in this way obtain
a good place in long and severe runs. If, therefore, our readers are allowed
to partake in this exciting sport during their summer holidays, they should
teach their ponies to leap in hand, or they will be sure to be thrown out.
TREATMENT OF VICES
The chief vices which are met with among ponies are-lst. Obstinate stopping; 2d. Stumbling from carelessness; 3d. Rearing; 4th. Kicking; 5th. Shying; and 6th. Running away.
Obstinate stopping, which in its worst forms is called "jibbing," is a very
118 
TREATMENT OF VICES.
troublesome vice, and even in the saddle is sometimes attended with danger,
while in driving it is so to a dreadful degree.
The rider should never attempt to force his pony forward with the whip
or spur, which only aggravates the bad-tempered brute; but should patiently
sit quiet in the saddle, and keep his temper, until the pony chooses to move
forward again.   In this way, sometimes, very vicious animals are cured,
when they find that their stable is not the sooner reached by their device;
on the other hand, if the whip is used, the pony is very apt to lie down,
and roll his rider in the dirt, or even sometimes to bolt into a river, or pond,
and leave him in danger of his life.  Our young friends will therefore
remember our advice when, being mounted upon an obstinate pony, and
having lost their temnpers, they have proceeded to use their whips, and are
bemired or half drowned in consequence.
Stumbling is more a defect of conformation than a vice; but, nevertheless, it greatly depends upon a want of spirit to keep up a steady action of
the fore legs. It often happens that a pony trots along for a mile or two
safely enough; but after going that distance he becomes lazy and careless,
and trips with one foot and then with the other, a sureprelude to such a fall
as the following, which would be a very bad one (page 120), and sufficient to
cut both knees to the bone, and to cause serious damage to the rider. The
only way to avoid such accidents is to keep the pony at a steady pace, fast
enough to keep him alive, but not enough so as to tire him.  Loose stones and
broken ground should be avoided, and a careful hold should be kept upon
the mouth, without being so tight as to gag it. When a stumble actually
takes place, the body should be well thrown back and the mouth forcibly
jerked, so as to make the pony exert himself to keep his legs.  A    4n f
ii~
4 
HORSEMANSIIIP.
animal of this kind is, however, wholly unfit for young riders, and they
should never be allowed to ride one.
Rearing is a very dangerous vice, and not very common among ponies
after they are once broken in. If the rider should, however, be placed
upon a rearer, he should be careful to avoid hanging upon the bit
when he rises in the air, but on the contrary should loose the reins entirely, and clasp the neck if the pony should rise very high in the air. The
accompanying sketch shows this vice in a very trifling degree, and in such
a case the seat thus represented is sufficiently forward to prevent accidents.
120 
TREATMENT OF VICES.
The rider will, however, observe that the reins are quite loose.  It often
happens that this vice is produced by too tight and severe a cutb in a tender
mnouth, and that upon changing the bit, or letting out the curb-chain, the tendency to rise is entirely gone. Whenever, therefore, the young rider finds
his pony inclined to rear, let him look well to his bit, and at once drop the
curb rein, if he has one.  If, however, he has only a snaffle, he may rest
assured that it is a regular habit, and he can make up his mind either to
battle with it or to change his pony.
Kicking is much more common among ponies than rearing, and very many
of these little animals are given to practise it. It is perhaps partly owing
to the teasing of their young masters that it is so common; but whatever
the cause, there can be no doubt that it is too prevalent among them.
Sometimes it exists as a regular attempt to unhorse the rider, which is a
very troublesome habit, and one very difficult to break, because it so often
succeeds that the pony is tempted to try again. When this vice is met
with, the rider should do all in his power to keep his pony's head up, by jerking the bit, and at the same time he should sit well back, with his feet well
forward. When the habit is a very bad one, a cloth or coat may be rolled
up and strapped in front of the saddle, by which the rider is aided in keeping his seat; but unless the trick is very violently carried out, he had better
trust to his knees in holding on.   When kicking is only the result of high
spirits and "freshness," the best remedy is a smart gallop, which soon stops
all these pranks, and makes the most riotous animal quiet.
Shying is also very common among ponies, and in them is often the result
of cunning, which leads them to pretend a greater degree of shyness than
they really possess. The best mode of treatment is to take as little notice
6
121
0 
IIORSEMANSHIP.
as possible of the shying, but carefully to make the pony pass the object at
whiich he is looking, without regarding how this is effected: The whip should
seldom be used at all, and never after the object is passed.
Bolting, or Running Away, is often the result of want of exercise, but
sometimes it is a systematic vice, leading to such scenes as the one hero
represented. A powerful bit and a steady seat, with good hands, are the best
means of grappling with this habit, which is sometimes a very dangerous
one.  If the pony really runs away, the rider should not pull dead at his
mouth, but should relax his hold for a short time, and then take a sharp
pull, which is often effectual. A good gallop until he is tired will often cure
a runaway for the rest of his life. There are a variety of bits intended expressly to counteract this vice; but nothing is perfectly effectual where there
is a determination to run away.  A nose-band has lately been invented for
the purpose, which answers very well. It consists of a long nose-band
which crosses behind the jaw and then hooks on to the bit, in the same
way as the ordinary curb-chain.  When the rein is pulled hard, this noseband is drawn tight round the jaw, by which the mouth is closed, and the
port is pressed strongly against the roof of the mouth, causing a great degree
of pain, sufficient to stop most horses. This powerful remedy, which has
been named the Bucephalus nose-band, should not lightly be used; but in
the case of a runaway horse, or pony, it is a really efficacious one. A similar
arrangement, known as the Mexican bit, is sometimes used, and is even
better than the one just mentioned.
122 
DRIVING.
DRIVING.
THE usual carriage driven with one horse,-and our young readers should
have some experience before they attempt a pair,-is the buggy, or York
wagon.  In addition to this there are phaetons. gig-phaetons, rockaways, and
others, but all have the same harness, and are managetl in the same way, so
that the directions for one will answer for all the rest.
The horse is attached to a buggy by means of a set of harness. By an
examination of the engravings, with the letters of reference attached, our
readers will learn the names of the component parts of this, and its adjustment. (See page 124.)
They will see that the harness is divided into, 1st, the driving or guiding
part; 2d, the drawing part; and 3d, that for holding up the shafts.  The
driving part comprises the bridle and reins. The bridle is made up of a front
piece (U), a head-piece (V), two cheek-pieces and winkers (P and Q), a
nose-band (S), and a throat-lash (R). The cheek-pieces are buckled to the
bit, which is generally a strong curb, by means of leather loops, called
billets, as also are the driving-reins (W), and the bearing-rein, which is attached to a separate bit, called the bridoon (a plain snaffle), and then is
hooked to the pad-hook. This is now very generally dispensed with, but
for young drivers it is often desirable, when they have not strength to check
the fall of a horse. The drawing parts consist of a padded oval ring fitted to
the shoulders, and called the collar (A), sometimes replaced by a padded strap
across the chest, called the breast-strap (b, Fig.2). - On the collar are fastened
two iron bars called hames (C), by means of a strap at the top and bottom
123 
HORSEMANSHIP.
(DD), and these hames have a ring in the upper part for the reins to pass
through, called the hame teret (E), and nearer the lower part, a strong arm
D                (/1             9
'1
7                                                                  w
~N                          M\
ti        iiIItt
of iron, covered with a coating of brass, silver, or leather, which receives in
its eye the tug of the trace (F). The trace (G) is a long and strong strap of
<<~'~(i~%                         (~
~
b
Fig. 1.                                         Fig. 2.
double leather, stitched, which runs from the collar to the drawing bar, and
may be lengthened or shortened by a buckle. The supporting and backing
124 
DRIVING.
part consists of the pad or saddle (H), somewhat similar in principle to the
riding saddle, but much narrower and lighter. This has two rings for
the reins, called the terets (I), and a hook (J), for the bearing rein, all at
the top.  It is fastened to- the horse by a belly-band  (K), and at the
back of it there is an eye for the crupper, which is a leather strap from it to
the tail, round the root of which it passes, and thus holds the pad from
pressing forward. Through the middle of the pad passes a strong leather
strap, called the back-band (L), which is attached to a buckle and strong
loop on each side, called the shaft-tug (M), by which the shaft is supported
and also kept back from pressing upon the horse's quarters, in which latter
office it is sometimes assisted by a leather strap passing round these parts,
and buckled on each side, either to the shaft or to its tug, and called the
breeching (N); a kicking-strap is sometimes substituted for the common
breeching, or added to it, as shown at o (Fig. 1).
PUTTING TO.
Before driving, it is necessary that the horse or pony should be " put to,"
which is effected as follows: 1st, slip the shafts through the tugs, or, if there
are hooks, drop them down into them; 2d, put the traces on to the drawingbar, either hooking them on, or else slipping them on to the eyes, and being
careful to place the leather stops in these to prevent the trace coming off;
3d, buckle the belly-band sufficiently tight; and 4th, buckle the kickingstrap, or breeching, if either is used.  After this, the reins are taken from
the terets, where they were previously placed, and the horse is ready.
DIRECTIONS FOR DRIVING.
In driving, the reins are held differently from the mode already described
as used in riding, the fore-finger being first placed between them, and then both
the reins are grasped by all the other fingers, and the near side rein is also
held firmly against the fore-finger by means of the thumb. In this way,
on an emergency, the near or left rein may be pulled by itself, by holding it
firmly with the thumb, and suffering the other, or off rein, to slip through
the fingers, or vice versa.
Whilst turning, or when driving a high-couraged horse, and in critical situ
125 
HORSEMANSHIP.
ations generally, the right hand must be at all times called to the assistance
of the left; thus, the reins being grasped as before stated, you pass te
Second and third fingers between them, and loosening your hold on the off
rein a little, let the right hand have complete command of its guidance, still,
however, firmly holding both reins in your left; this position gives you great
power over your horse.                                                     v
STARTING.
HIolding your reins with both hands, start your horse either by your voice
or by the reins, gently feeling his mouth, but neither pulling at it nor jerking the reins. Many high-couraged horses have been made balkers by the
stupidity of a driver. If a young horse's mouth is hurt by the driver checking him every time he starts, he will be sure to incur some vice; the habit
of rearing, or of balking, will most probably be the result. The learner may
say, " Supposing, however, he refuses to start, what then is to be done?"
We reply, have patience; let the groom lead him off, caress him, speak
quietly, and encourage him to proceed, and if he presses on one side, as if
he wanted to go round, turn him round, if there be room, and as soon
as he has his head the right way, give him his liberty, and by the voice
or whip urge him to proceed.  Much must here be left to the judgment;  a
touch with the whip in such circumstances would make some horses jib,
while it would immediately start others; some it would be advisable to urge
only with the voice, and to have a person to push the buggy on, so that the
collar should scarcely touch the shoulder in starting. Supposing there is not
room for the horse to turn, and he persist in his attempt to do so, we have
always found it best in such a case to desire the groom to let his head alone,
and to go to the side toward which the horse is inclined to turn, and then
push against the extreme end of the shaft; if he does this, speaking quietly
to him all the time, forty-nine horses out of fifty, that are not irreclaimable
balkers, will after a short struggle proceed. The sooner you get rid of a
confirmed jibber the better: no quality such a brute can possess would
repay you for the trouble the vice occasions; which is besides always a dangerous one.
THE ROAD.
Having started your horse, keep your eyes open, looking well before you,
not merely for the purpose of avoiding other carriages, but looking up the
road, and on each side of it, so as to notice if there be any impediment to
your horse's progress; any loose stones which he might tread upon, and
thereby be thrown down; any sudden risings or failings in the road, or any
object which might frighten him. Always keep your horse well in hand,
that is, feel his mouth; if you do not you are never prepared for emergencies: if he stumbles, you cannot help him to recover his legs; if he
starts, you cannot check him. But in keeping him in hand, as it is called,
you may still fall into error, for if the horse be very light in the mouth there
126 
DRIVING.
is a probability that an inexperienced person may so check him, as not only
to impede his progress, but to put him out of temper; and as nothing is
more difficult for a novice- to manage than a very light-mouthed horse, when
he once takes it in his head to have his own way, you must be careful
merely to feel his mouth so as to have the reins at command, but still not
sufficiently tight to check him. This is called driving with a light hand, and
indeed is the perfection of driving, when it has become so habitual as to
have assumed the character of "a style." Young drivers, in attemptingthis,
will frequently allow their horses to run from one side of the road to the other;
or, if their peregrinations do not embrace the whole of the road, they allow
their horse (in fact make him) to sidle about in such a manner, that if they
were to look at the track of their wheels, they would be astonished at what
they had been doing. This must be avoided; as nothing is so ungraceful
as to see a carriage yawing from side to side. A little thought will, moreover, convince you how much unnecessary ground you have gone over by
this practice. Holding in hand sometimes produces another bad practice,
particularly if your horse's mouth is not delicate; it gets him into the habit
of hanging in your arms, and boring continually upon the bit, until his mouth
becomes so callous, that if he stumbles he must come down, unless you can
hold him up by main strength-a feat only to be achieved by a young Hercules. This may be avoided sometimes by keeping the bit moving in his
mouth, but more frequently by not unnecessarily pulling at the rein; many
a horse has become an arrant bore from this practice. If the reins are held
with both hands, as before directed, you will have much more command of
them, and a little attention will prevent these inconveniences.
But the tyro may perhaps say, " But if my horse will hang in my arms,
what am I to do then?"  ThQ best plan to adopt is the following.  We will
premise, that whenever your horse has a vice or a fault, you should consider
what originated it; and this being discovered, a remedy will very frequently
be found. In the case in question, the fault is often produced by bad driving, and often from the horse never having been properly bitted; in either
case the advice we are about to give will generally be useful, particularly
if the horse be properly driven when he is put in harness. When the
horse is in his stable, let him, for three or four hours a day, stand with his
head fastened to the pillar reins, and with a colt bit in his mouth; with this
he will play, by continually rolling it about in his mouth, and straining on
the reins; he thus becomes familiarized to the bit, and regards it, if we may
so say, as a source of amusement rather than of torture. From being thus
accustomed to the bit when he is not in motion, and when boring on it
would become painful, he forgets his former habit, and will bear the bit
lightly in his mouth when at work. This process is technically termed biting him, and if persevered in, and the horse be properly driven, the evil will
most probably be remedied thereby. Sometimes, changing the bit will have
a good effect; if he has been used to a port bit, try a snaffle; if he be hard
mouthed, and an ordinary snaffie is not of sufficient power, a ring snaffle
127 
t{ORSEMANSHIP.
will generally be effective. When a horse bores to one side of the road, let
us strongly advise the young driver never to adopt that unphilosophical
and senseless plan of whipping him on the neck upon the side to which he
is boring. We grant that the lash drives him over for the moment,
that is, if he will bear whipping, but this, continually repeated, has a bad
effect on both horse and driver. It either irritates or dispirits the horse,
and fatigues both parties; and every one knows that when flogging once
commences, a man very soon loses his temper, and from a coachman he is
apt to forget himself, and become a brute. Whipping will not remedy the
evil; the horse gets more and more weary, and even if he does not become
restive, he will soon become knocked up. If the plans just referred to will
not cure him; or rather, if he be incurable, part with him, for whoever
keeps a horse for comfort and pleasure, will find his object defeated by
driving such an animal. Such horses may prove useful in business from
some good qualities they may possess; but a horse driven for pleasure
should never have a vice that will compel his master to work as hard as a
blacksmith  WVe have been speaking of a horse working alone in a buggy
or rockaway.  When working in double harness, you can prevent much of
the inconvenience by having a check-rein fastened to the other horse's
teret; the same remedy holds, in this case, to a horse that is always boring
to one side of a road, when working in double harness. Observation will,
however, show you that in the one case the check-rein had better be fixed
to the trace, in the other to the teret. A few words may here be said as to
the cause of a horse's boring to one side. It is frequently the result of
weakness, and many a horse will do it as he gets weary, who will not when
he starts. Sometimes the mouth is harder upon one side than the other,
which will make him flinch from the softer side; a light hand will tend to
remedy this; but if he be driven with a port bit, placing the rein which is
on the soft side of the mouth right up to the cheek, and the other a bar or
two below, will probably prevent any unpleasantness or any danger, particularly if the horse be driven with care.  But such a horse is by no means to
be desired; if he should stumble, or if, from any circumstance, it is necessary
to pull him up sharply, an inexperienced hand may make him jump to one side
of the road by not having presence of mind to recollect his fault, and forgetting to pull strongest upon the hard side of the mouth. An experienced
hand will feel, as it were intuitively, the exact force which each side of the
mouth will bear.
DIFFICULT SITUATIONS FOR YOUNG DRIVERS.
We will now proceed to notice what may be accurately classed under the
above denomination.
Tusking the bit, and running away.-Some ill-tempered horses will become
violent upon being in any manner put out of their way-such, for instance,
as being suddenly stopped two or three times within a short distance, or
receiving a sudden cut with the whip; but instead of exhibiting this vio
128 
DIFFICULT SITUATIONS FOR YOUNG DRIVERS.
lence by rearing or kicking, they will seize the bit in their mouths, close
against the tusk, and run violently to one side of the road, as if with the
intention of landing you in a ditch, or giving you a resting-place in a shlop
window. Your best mode is to stop them at once by a quiet pull, speaking
softly, as if nothing were the matter; and then coax them into good temper until you get home, when we will presently explain to you how to prevent the like again. If this cannot be done, give them the head for a moment (a short one it must be), and after bestowing a violent switch across
the ears, snatch the reins suddenly toward the side to which the horse is
boring, which will probably, from the surprise, disengage the bit, and enable you almost simultaneously either to pull him up, or draw him away from
the danger. You will observe we have said on the side to which he is pressing, for it would be all but impossible to draw him to the other; for such
a brute always seizes the bit by the branch or side which is next to the
place he is running to, knowing, or rather thinking, you will pull the other
rein, in which case the side of the face would aid him in resisting your
efforts. The remedy for this is a ring bit, for it has no branches for the
horse to get hold of, and if he merely seizes that part of the bit which is in
his mouth, a sudden jerk will instantly disengage it, that is, if it be done with
sufficient decision; but our experience teaches us, that in ninety-nine cases
out of a hundred the horse will not attempt this; he misses the branches,
and is disappointed and abashed at not being able to play the old trick.
Frequently, however, a horse tusks the bit, as it is called, withl the view
of bolting; it you cannot disengage the bit in the way directed, you have
only to stop him as quickly as you can   Recollect, however, that a continual dead pull will never stop a runaway horse, unless indeed you have the
strength of Hercules: his mouth soon becomes callous to the action of the
sharpest bit. Nor is it proper to keep jerking a horse under such circumstances, as that would rather urge him to increase his speed. The ordinary
mode is to take the reins short in your hands, and tlien, by a sudden, steady
movement of the body backward, exerting at the same time all the strength
of the arms, endeavor to pull him up; this, repeated two or three times,
will generally be effectual.  Suppose it not to succeed, adopt the following
plan, by which we have stopped many a determined bolter who had bid
defiance to more than one reputed whip. Cross the reins in your hands,
that is, place the right rein in the left hand, the left iuthe right hand, take
them very short, and then suddenly put all your strength to them with a
sudden jerk, but continue the pressure, violently sawing them at the same
time; if this will not bring the horse to his haunches at the first attempt,
let him partially have his head-that is, sufficiently slacken your pull to
give his mouth time to recover its feeling-and then repeat the effort.   We
never knew a horse that we could not stop by this method, which, though
not very graceful, is very effective.
Stumbling and Slipping.-If your horse be kept well in hand, you will
generally be able to keep him from absolutely coming down.   You will
6*
129 
HORSEMANSHIP.
naturally put more force to your pull upon his making the stumble, and this
jerk, if succeeded by a strong, continuous aid, generally keeps him on his
legs; a smart stroke with the Whip should follow, to remind him that his
carelessness is not to be repeated. A horse that is apt to stumble, or even
one that from his form is likely to stumble, should not only always be
kept well in hand, but also be kept alive, by now and then being reminded,
without actually punishing him, that his driver has a whip in his hand. A
horse with his head set too forward, that is, low in the withers, is almost
sure to come down sooner or later, particularly if his fore legs stand at all
under him,. as it is technically termed, that is, slanting a little inward.
Stumbling, however, be it remembered, is totally distinct from slipping; the
stone pavement will give the tyro plenty of opportunity to perceive the difference. If a horse slips, a sudden jerk will probably throw him down;
in such a case the driver must aid the horse by a strong, steady hold,
letting him, as it were, lean on the bit to help himself to stand. It requires
some nerve thus to aid the horse, without being induced to jerk him by the
suddenness of the slip.
Jibbing, or Balking.-Demosthenes, on being asked what was the soul of
oratory, answered, "Action, action, action "  If we are'asked what is the best
mode to adopt with a jibber, we should say, Patience, patience, patience I
This, however, must be qualified by the temper of the horse. Some balkers
(but very few) may be started by sudden and severe wrhipping; ninety-nine
times out of a hundred it will render a jibber restive, mischievous, or obstinate.  Experience only can dictate the mnanagement of such animals.  Some
will start after waiting for a short time, having their head free; coaxing is
generally the best means, and, as before said, have patience, and do not be in
too great a hurry to start. Some may be started by being turned round, and
others by being backed for a short distance.  Many think it a good plan to
punish a jibber when he is once started; our experience proves the contrary,
for, depend upon it, he will recollect this next time, and will not fail further
to exercise your patience, for fear of the flogging.
Kicking-An experienced eye can generally tell if a horse is likely to
kick, and also when he is about to kick.  We, however, always drive with
a kicking-strap, and would recommend the practice. When a horse attempts
to kick, you must hold him well in hand, and lay the whip well into him
about the ears, ratii him at the same time with a loud voice; tlis plan we
have generally found effective.   We would, however, recommend the young
driver first to try the rating without the whipping; the voice frequently has a
wonderful effect upon a horse.  Be sure, however, to keep him well in hand.
Rearing.-Little can be done in harness with a determined rearer. When
he tries to rear, if you have room give him a half turn, this will make him
move his hind legs, and will consequently bring him down; you will find a
series of -rns punish and surprise him more than any thfing else,  When
you have once got him on the move, with his head the right way, you can
punish him with the whip, if he is one that you are sure you can manage;
130 
DIF ICULT SITUATIONS FOR YOUNG DRIVERS.
if not, you had better leave well alone. With respect to rearing in double
harness, we will here observe, the best way to act is to push the other horse
forward, and soothe the restive one, until iou have fairly got him on; you
can then punish or not, according to your judgment, but not without reference to your ability to manage the horses.
,3hyi.ng-Before a horse starts at any thing on the side of, or lying
on the road, hlie usually gives some notice of his intention, by cocking
his ears, and bending his head toward the object.  As soon as the driver
perceives these signs of uneasiness, hlie should be upon his guard to prevent
a sudden turn round. or flying to one side, whlicli would evidently be dangerous; and not only on this account should he be attentive, but because
each time the horse violently shies, the habit is in progress of being confirmed.  As soon, therefore, as a horse accustomed to shy gives notice of
uneasiness, he should be coaxed up to the object of his terror, so that
he may perceive its harmlessness; let him deliberately stand and view it,
and if he cannot be got to it, let it, if possible, be brought to him, and then
replaced in its former position; thus let him be induced to go up to it by
care and kindness before it is passed, and you will generally find that a repetition of this practice will greatly improve, if it do not cure him; but by
no means flog or force him up to it-let him take his time. We are now, of
course, speaking of a horse whose sight is perfect. Some horses shy from
having an imperfect vision; in fact, because they are going blind, and the
sight is affected; and we would, therefore, advise a young driver to have
his horse's eyes examined (if he is unable to examine them himself), whenever this shying is violent after a few lessons of the nature before detailed.
We do not mean to say that there are not horses so timid that they cannot
be broken of this bad practice; but we do say that most horses may be,
if taken in time, and also that nine out of ten of these animals owe their vice
to bad breaking, or bad drivers.
p
131 
ANGLING.
ANGLING.
TiE art of the angler is varied by circumstances. To be successful, it
must be based on a knowledge of the habits of fish-different fishes having
different tastes, and even the same kind of fishes differing in habits, when
placed in different localities. It is our intention to give general information
on the subject, through which a smart boy, by using his eyes and judgment,
may become an accomplished angler.
The implements of the angler are as follows:
THE ROD.
For small fish,-chubs, dace, roach, minn-ows, sunfish, and small white
perch,-a black alder or willow rod, about eight feet in length, will answer;
but for catching larger fish, a carefully made rod is necessary.  Besides, it
is more comfortable to have a nice rod.  It can be had at the shops where
they sell fishing-tackle, in great variety of shape and price.  One w4h four
joints or pieces-the butt and two succeeding pieces of ash, and the last
I I
132
-L  ~,          T    -;; —-  - 
.                 -—  
THE REEL.-THE LINE.-THE HOOK.
joint, or tip, of lancewood-will be the best for ordinary purposes. It
should have two tips, one short and one long. The wood should be straightgrained, and each joint should have eyes, through which the line will run
easily. A rod of cane, without joints, is exceedingly good, if it can be kept
near the fishing-ground, as it is not very portable. Whatever the material,
the rod should be straight, tapering from butt to point, tight in the joints,
and have a good spring to it.
THIE REEL.
Very good fish have been caught
without the. reel; but that is a
very useful thing,  nevertheless,
allowing you to let a large fish
run out a deal of line, and letting you wind it up at your
pleasure, thus affording him play,   
and making his capture more certain. Without it, you would lose
many a large fish, who would snap
your taut, short line. The reel is generally made of brass, but sometimes
of German silver, and may be either plain or multiplying. The latter is
best, but, being complex, is liable to get out of order.  The plain imported
reel is very good; but if you are able to obtain a multiplying reel, get an
American one, as those made in England.are very apt to be fitted with
brass internal wheels, the cogs of which soon give way. A reel that will
hold about fifty yards of line is enough for a boy's purpose.
THE LINE.
Different lines are required for different fish. For catching shiners, a
stout piece of homespun thread will answer, and with this, and a No.
11 hook, you can capture a half-pound sunfish, or perch, if need be. Seagrass is also a good material for a short line of, say, twenty feet. For your
main line, a plaited silk, or well-twisted hemp, is best, measuring fifty
yards.. It should be boiled in linseed oil before being used, which will add
to its durability, and render it less liable to kink. To catch large pike or
muskelunjeh, where you troll for them, you want a stout cotton or hemp
line. 
THE   00K.
Your hook has to be proportioned to the kind of fish you catch, and will
vary from the little fly hook, No. 12, up to the salmon, No. 0, which is large
enough for any fishing a boy will ever get. As to the style, the Limerick
(A B) is decidedly our favorite; although, for some fishing, the Kirby (C)
is excellent.  The Limerick hasp curve extending from the shank to the
133 
1, ANGLING.
bottom of the bend, which thence turns up at an angle; while the Kirby
rises up nearly straight, and its barb has a slight turn outwards.
The sizes of both kinds of hooks are the same.
There is also a pattern called the Virginia hook, which is very popular
with Southern fishermen. It is shaped like the Kirby, with a Limerick
barb, and is longer in the shank than either.
After getting the kind of hook to suit your fancy, test each individual
hook, and see that it has a good temper, and that the point is sharp and
perfect.
SINKERS, OR DIPSIES.
These are of various sizes, from a small shot, half split, and- then closed
on the line, to a heavy lead, of a pound or more, used in sea-fishing.   A
swivel sinker is best, as it prevents the line from being entangled, and, if
you troll, aids in spinning the bait.
SWIVELS.
These are very necessary. They are generally made of blued steel, or
brass, and should be placed at various parts of the line,'one being within a
foot or eighteen inches of the bait.
FLOATS.
Floats are usually made of corks or quills
sometimes of red cedar or white pine, and are
either egg-shliaped, or made — like two long, narrow cones, joined at their bases. For small fish,
the quill-float is preferable; and for very large
fish, the red cedar, hollowed out.
LEADERS.
The leaders, to which the hooks are attached,
aremade either of twisted horse-hair, sea-grass,
or silk-worm gut-the latter being the most elegant material, almost imperceptible in water,
and necessary in taking shy fish.
NETS.
The only two nets are the landing and bait  Their uses are expressed in
their names.  The labding-net is a purse-like net, with a three-eighths of an
134
0
.V.1~~~~~~~~~ I
i 
GAFF-HIIOOK. —THE  CLEARkNG-RING.-BAITS.
inch mesh, and is made about sixteen inches in diameter and two feet in
length, set on a stout brass wire ring, and attached to a light but strong
hickory handle, five feet long. The bait-net is similar, but somewhat
smaller, and has a quarter of an inch mesh.
GAFF-IEIOOK.
This is a bent hook, about four inches long, with a six-feet handle, by
which you get a purchase in the gills of a big fish, and so land him.
THlE CLEARING-RING.
This is a ring weighing from a quarter of a pound to,six ounces, which is
tied to a stout cord, and when the line is caught in some obstacle under
water, is placed around the line, and sent down to clear the way.
BAITS.
The ordinary bait in common fishing is the angleworm, as it is called,
which may be dug up in any loamy soil, especially in damp situations, or
found by rolling over logs, or lifting plank that have lain for some time on
the ground. There are other species of warms sometimes used, such as the
brandling, which you will find about old dung-heaps, and the marsh-worm,
which has a broader, flatter tail than the angle-worm.
The white grub-worm, which will be found under old decayed logs,
stumps, and in freshly-ploughed ground, is much approved by some, but we
never found it of much use.
The grasshopper, used without a sinker, so as to float on the surface, is a
killing bait for trout, and the large sunfish, red-eyes, or yellow perch. Sunfish will rise readily, too, at the common black cricket, if it be left floating
on the surface.
Minnows, gudgeons, shiners, and dace are all used as bait, and chub for
large fish. They must be put on alive.
In baiting with a minnow, do not put the hook through the back, fin, or
body, as recommended by most writers.  Your bait will die sooner, indeed,
will inevitably die. By baitinmg in the proper manner, your bait will live as
long as wanted, and if you do not fancy him, may be released carefully, and
sent about his business, none the worse for it. A writer on this subject
says:
135 
ANGLING.
" Your game-fish takes his prey by swallowing it head foremost, not liking
the prickles of the dorsal fin to stick in his belly. So I insert my hook
carefully in the gill-cover of my bait, which the little fellow hardly feels,
and let him play about, until Mr. Gristes, Mr. Lucioperca, or Mr. Salmo call
for his breakfast."
Shad-roe is an excellent bait in its season for striped bass, or rock-fish,
trout, and white peich.
In salt or brackish water, the soft or shedder crab, the shrimp, the soft
and hard clam, are much used.
Dough, or dough and cheese, mixed with cotton, is capital for many
ground-fish.
A frog, either whole or in parts, is capital for pike, pickerel, or pike-perch,
in some localities.
Spoon-bait consists of the bowl of a spoon, silvered on the convex, and
painted red on the concave side, with one or two hooks fastened at the top
end, and set on the line. Drawn quietly through the water, the black bass
and pickerel dart at it readily.
In addition to these, there is the artificial fly, the most elegant of all
baits for trout and salmon, and a great many others, which a smart boy will
find in the woods and about the streams, in the shape of flies and beetles.
The three main baits are, however, artificial flies, earth-worms, and small
fish. In getting the latter, remember that small fish with stiff, prickly
back-fins, such as sticklebacks and sunfish, are of little use, no large fish
liking to have his throat lacerated with the sharp spines. Even that voracious fellow, the pike, will hardly venture on a young sunfish, however
hungry he may be.                                            e
MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS.
Besides the foregoing, you will'want a disgorger, to aid you in getting out
the hook when swallowed very far; and you should have with you always
a little leather case, containing, besides your extra hooks, etc., a pair of
small pliers, scissors, some shoemaker's wax in a piece of soft leather, and
a piece of stout cord, to be, waxed and wrapped around your rod, in case it
should break, and you would need to splice it. A fish-basket, and conveniences of that sort, should be provided.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
Look out for wind and weather. The south wind, and after that the west,
is considered the best by all experienced anglers, from Walton down, and a
cloudy, though not a cold day, is set down as favorable. Fish are whimsical, however, or it may be have fits of hunger, for we have had fine fishing
on a cold day, with an east wind; and have filled our basket when the sun
was beaming down scorchingly and not a cloud in the sky. The best time
of day is early in-the morning, and late in the afternoon.
Be cautious. Fish are shy. Never show yourself near where the fish
136 
THE SALMON.
lie, if you can help it. Fish, like the Irishman's gun, was made to shoot
round a corner. Many a big trout, or huge black bass, has been captured
while he lay hidden under an overhianging bank, by the skilful angler dropping or casting his bait gently in his vicinity. Never let your shadow fll
in the water, and if you cannot fish with your face to the sun, take shelter
behind a tree, bush, or rock.
Have on good boots and woollen stockings, the former to keep out the
water, and the latter, in case it does get in, to let it do you as little mischief
as possible. Have plenty of spare hooks and leaders, with an extra float,
sinker, and swivel, to make up any unexpected loss, and always be provided
with an abundance of bait.
With these remarks, we come to the various kinds of fish to be met with
in different parts of the United States.
THE SALMON.
This, the noblest of all fish, is to be found in but a few places in this
country.  It is confined to the States of Maine, California, and Oregon, and
some of the Western lakes. Occasionally a few make their way up the
Hudson. The time of taking them is from April to July, and they are
treated, like the trout, either to the fly, worms, or minnows. You want a
heavy rod, with a very large reel, and from three to six hundred feet of line.
A swivel sinker and cedar float are to be used, when you fish with live bait,
and your hook is a No. 0, 1, 2, or 3, Limerick, with a strong leader of twisted
gut, from three to six feet in length.  For fly-fishing, you must use a swivel
instead of a swivel sinker, and, of course, no float.
For worm-fishing, put on your worm head first, and leave about a half
inch of the tail to wriggle; throw it gently in the current, draw it up
quietly after it has floated down, keeping the bait continually in motion.
Keep a tight line when he bites, but do not strike too soon. Allow him to
gorge, then strike suddenly and sharply. If the bite should be only a sud
137 
ANGLING.
den jerk, pay no attention to it-it is merely a nibble.  Wait patiently, and
he will call again. If he does, look sharp. Play him gently but firmly.
Let him have line enough as he goes from you, but as he returns reel up.
Keep him clear of stumps and rocks; be patient, and as cool as you can.
At length he will exhaust himself. Draw him gently to shore, put the hook
of your gaff in his gills, and land him.
THE'LAKE TROUT.
This is found in a few lakes in the Miiddle and Northern States, and differs from the Mackinaw trout, with which it is often confounded. It is
blackish, with many gray spots, body comparatively short; its back-fin has
a sinuous margin, and its length is two to four feet. It is taken in the same
way as
THiE MACKINAW TROUT.
This fish is dark-gray above, of a light ash-gray, or cream-color, on chin,
throat, and belly; the back and sides having many lighter gray, brown, or
dirty white spots, which do not show themselves on the fins, as in the lake
BROOK TROUT.
trout. The breast and belly-fins are yellowish; teeth, gums, and mouth
of apurplish tinge; length two to five feet.  It has a finer flavor than the
lake trout.
For this fish you want a heavy rod, and spoon-bait or revolver.  Youi
troll for him, or you can use the large minnow.   Your line must be stout.
You manage your fish as in taking any other salmon-for a member of the
salmon family he is, and a fine one at that.
COMMON BROOK TROUT.
This fish is too well known to need description. A variety is the
BLACK TROUT,
Which seems to be the same fish, modified by its dwelling-place, which is in
muddy streams and ponds principally. Then, there is the
138 
HULBO TROUT.
HIIULBO TROUT,
With a forked tail, dusky back, yellowish belly fin, all the other lines palish
purple, and grows from two to four feet long. It is to be taken after the
fashion of the lake trout.
The best time for taking the common trout is from April to August, or, if
it be mild weather, as early as March. You may capture this fish in one of
three ways:
Top-A)gling.-This is done with an artificial or natural fly, grasshopper,
cricket, or other small insect to be fouid near water-courses or ponds. MiddleAngling is done with a shiner, minnow, or shrimp; and Bottom Fishing with
a worm or shad-roe.
Fly fishing is the perfection of fishing, especially wit the artificial fly.
You use a stout rod, from ten to twelve feet long; your reel has on from
thirty to fifty yards of fine silk, grass, or hair line, with a yard long leader,
and your fly or flies set on very fine gut.  Cast your line with the fly before
you, and do it so dexterously that the fly will fall lightly on the water, and
as little line with it as possible. This dexterity can only be acquired by
practice. Your line should be about half as long again,as your rod, though,
as you acquire skill, and want to cast at some likely looking hole at a distance, you lengthen it. If you see a fish rise at a natural fly, throw a yard
or so above him, so as to let your fly floatto him naturally. Fish, when you
can, down the stream.
In throwing the fly, a most important point, raise the arm well up, without laboring with the body; send the fly both backward and forward, by
a sudden spring of the wrist. Do not draw the fly too near, or you lose
your purchase for sending it back, and therefore require an extra sweep in
the air before you can get it into play again. If, after sending it back, you
make the counterspring too soon, you will crack off your tail-fly; if a moment too'late, your line will fall in the water in a heavy and slovenly manner.
The knack of catching the proper time is what you want to learn, and that
can only be done by a little careful practice. When a skilful fisherman
makes his cast, the extreme end of the casting-line reaches the water first,
and this is as it should be; and when it is so, the line falls lightly and almost
unperceived upon the water.
We should recommend beginners to put their rod together, draw their line
through the rings some ten or twelve feet, and practise without casting-line
on some grass-plot, until they find that they can obtain the necessary skill
without making a crack like a coachman. Throwing the fly should also be
practised with the left hand, as it will often be found a great relief. To
change hands will also enable you to fish with the one next the river, on
whichever side you may be, and whether you go up or down. Aft;r the fol lowing hints have been studied and you are perfect in them, you may corm mence the sport. Avoid going too close to the water, if the stream is a
small one, and never by any chance permit your shadow to be thrown on its
139 
surface, availing yourself of stumps and rocks to hide you whenever avail  able.  No fish has keener sight than a trout  and if he should be on a ford
feeding, one glimpse of the intruder will send him to the depths of the
neighboring pool or under some inaccessible rock, without the slightest de  sire to renew his disturbed meal. Always fish with the shortest possible
line, as you are thereby enabled more certainly to strike your fish when he
rises, which is done by an almost simultaneous movement of the wrist, but
nothing more-you will at once perceive if the fish is stuck, and your move ment will be sufficient to make the hook take hold, but not to tear it from
its grip. When a fish is hooked, be particularly cautious that no sudden
strain is put. on the line, and keep cool and ready for any emergency. If
the trout is strong and in prime condition, his first endeavors to free himself
will be by throwing himself out of the water, and the angler must be well
prepared for this frequently successful plan.  Immediately he is above the
surface, drop the point of your rod so as to give him a slack line, for if the
line should be taut and he strike it in his fall, he will invariably tear himself
loose; but at no other time should the line be slack, as the hook, if not
borne upon, is apt to work out. The next effort will probably be to run
strong up stream: let him go, bearing sufficiently against him to wear him
out; as soon as he stops, wind in your spare line as short as possible,
almost to the casting-line, but on no account beyond; perhaps he will en deavor to make another run, but each successive one will be more feeble
than the previous-always taking carefully in line as soon as he halts; he
may now endeavor to go down to the bottom and get amongst rubbish,
stones, etc., which must be carefully prevented by giving.him the rod, so
that all his efforts-will come upon its spring.  If you have to move from the
place where you hooked the fish to land him, alwvays go down stream, and
endeavor to keep his head above water, and do not attempt to land him till
thoroughly exhausted. Never attempt to lift your fish out by the line, as
the dead-weight will frequently break the hold, but use your'landing-net,
which must be put under and behind, not attempting to raise it from the
water till you see that he is in the pouch.
In fishing with the minnow, you use a stouter rod, and shorter top, with
a two yard leader, and a Limerick hook, from No. 2 to 5, according to the
size of your bait. If you put on the bait in the old way, you must keep it
in motion; but, secured as we have before described, the bait will move
itself.
In bottom fishing, you may either cast out, and draw gently in, or let it
remain stationary, if your worm be lively. Under banks, or near rocks, if
the worm be dropped in carefully, and the angler keep himself conoealed, he
stands a chance of taking the finest trout.
The time to strike, experience will show you setter than any thing else.
Do not drag him out, even if he be small, as though you wanted to pull the
hook from his jaws; and if he be large, give him plenty of line, and play
him till he is exhausted, or you may lose both hook and leader.
140
ANGLING. 
STRIPED BASS, OR ROCKFISHI.-PIKE.
STRIPED BASS, OR ROCKFISH.
~ --—.~        
~~~~7\\\     
This is a fine game fish, abounding in the rivers, bays, and inlets from the
capes and bays of Florida to those of Mfassachusetts, and in the spring of the
year ascending the rivers to spawn. The rod and tackle required is the same
as for the salmon, with a hook from s o. 0 to 3, according to the game you
are likely to find. The bait is minnow, shiner, or shad-roe, and when in the
bays or mouths of rivers, shedder crabs, shrimp, and shad-roe in their season.
In boat fishing, in still water, you use a cedar or large cork float, but in fishing at the bottom of dams or in swift currents, capital places, you have no
float, and no other sinker than a plain swivel.
You manage them, in striking and taking, like the salmon. They can be
caught also by trolling, with either squid or spoon-bait, or minnow.
PIKE.
The varieties of this fish are numerous.   Besides the true pike, there is
the pickerel, and, in the west and southwest, the.[us7keunj(eh.  Then there
141 
is a fish known on the Ohio and its waters as the salmon, but properly
called the
PIKE-PERC[H,
Which is taken in the same manner, and is a bold and game fish.  They are
in time at all seasons, except just after their spawning in April and May,
and may be taken even in winter by making a hole in the ice. During the
very hot summer months tihey will not bite freely.
You will want for pike-fishing a similar rod and line to that used in catch-'
ing salmon; but the hook must be set on catgut, covered with wire, such
as is used for the smallest-wired guitar-string, or the teeth of a large pike
will saw it through. He fights desperately, and you will need a gaff generally. If you attempt to take him without, grasp him by putting your finger
and thumb in his two eyes. If you are not careful, he will snap your finger
either off, or wound it fearfully, and that, sometimes, when you think him
exhausted.
For bait you can use minnows, large chubs, small suckers, red-horse, or
frogs-he is not particular. An extra swivel or two, here and there, in the
first three yards of your line, may be usefuL
THE PERCH.
In this family you will find the white, yellow, and black or red perch. In
the West and Southwest, they call the black bass black perch, but he is a
PERCH.
different fish, a gristes and not a perca. Perch-fishing is very pretty sport.
You do not require a very strong line, nor stout pole, and you will rarely,
unless with a big fellow, have occasion to use the reel. IIe is a quick
biter, and scarcely ever nibbles.  The bait may be small  minnows, shrimp,
or worms-the latter almost always  good an freshl wvater.  Groat numbers
are taken in rive-r, ~Bom tIhe first hour bo:%-  the  floodl cf tC."', to the hour
142
ANGLING. 
BLACK BASS.-RED-HORSE.
after, just outside of the channel-grass, with a bow-line, made with a
whalebone, which is kept near the bottom by a dipsy.  Each end of the
bow is furnished with t~wo or three hooks, set on four or five inches of gut,
and baited with wormns.  Sometimes five or six are caught at/once.  From
Tray to July is their best season, and the hook is a Limerick trout, from 2
to 5 in size.
BLACK BASS.
This fish is peculiar to the Western lakes, and the streams running into
the great rivers of the West. It resembles, in general appearance, the seabass, but is not black, though it has a blackish appearance above. There
are several varieties-some bottle-green on top, some with broad stripes
around them, that fade after they are dead-and all game. They harbor in
the deep holes in summer, shooting out into the shallows, at times, after
small fish. The best bait is the minnow or chub, to be caught in their vicinity, or the brooks round about; and if you want big fish, use tolerably
large bait.
You take a medium-sized rod, with about fifty yards of line, and a yard
leader. A swivel sinker, large enough to keep your bait from the surface,
and a float so large that your bait cannot pull it under, are required. Put
your hook through the gill-cover of the chub, set your float from three to
six feet deep, according to the depth of the hole, and throw it gently in.
Do not strike the first time the float goes under.  Wait for the second time,
and then strike. Play him well, giving him line in proportion to his size
and strength.:He plays game for a while, but soon gives up. A landingnet, or your finger in his gills, will secure him.
The abovedirections, with little variation, will answer for the pike-perch
it the Western streams.
THE WHITE LAKE-BASS.
This fish may be treated like the white perch.
THE RED-EYE.
This is a Western fish, looking like a cross between the striped bass and
the sunfish, with a red spot in l.is eye, whence the name.   He is a game
little fellow, and to be taken after th,e manner of the wvltito perch.!Ie is
good at all seasons.  His haunts are princi-ally unader the banks, and beneath
overhanging bushes.
RED-HORSE.
This is a species of soft-fleshed fishli that is not much sought after except
in spring, when hlie swarms in the Western wvaters. Ile will not bite well at
that time, and they take them by spearing. IHe may be caught with a
worm, by ground-fishing, in the autumn months, but is bony, and not prized.
Akin to him is his Eastern relative, the 
143 
ANGLING.
SUCKER,
Who is to be found in our rivers and streams, and the
MULLET,
Who bites a little better than the preceding at a worm.   You must always
fish on the bottom for these, with a small hook, and any moderately strong
line. They require no skill tq secure, and the coarsest and cheapest tackle
will answer.
SUNFISIH.
Every boy knows him. There are several varieties. An extemporized
rod, of length according to the place you fish, a light line, a No. 7, 8, or 9
hook, a lively worm or a grasshopper, and you have him. HeI loves, like
L2IL#w
SUNIIISH, OR BREAM.
the red-eye, to lie in holes under the bank, and in tolerably deep water.
His spines protect him from the larger fish, and he is quite game  and fearless, as well as very handsome.
CARP, OR TENCIH.
This is a naturalized fish in the Eastern part of this comuntry; though
there is a fine large carp in the WVestern waters. The mode of taking both
is the same. You require strong tackle; for he is a heavy fish sometimes,
and strong; a light quill float, a short leader of gut, and a light-colored
worm-a brandling being better than an angle-worm.   Fish on the bottom,
or near it. He is a very shy fish, and you had better bait the spots you
mean to fish the day before, by throwing in bread-crumbs, chicken-entrails,
or lumps of dough.
144 
EEL.-GARFISH.
EEL.
There is good sport sometimes with this fellow, in bobbing; but he is not
much liked on a hook, from his habit of twining the line, and the slime he
leaves on your fingers if you handle him. Hie will be found everywhere,
especially in muddy bottoms, and boys need no instruction about catching
him.  Bobbing for eels is-very amusing night sport.  You string worms on
threads, by running a blunt-pointed long needle through them from head to
taiL. WVhen you have enough strings threaded, you tie the ends together,
and then fold them into a regular hank, like a hank of yarn.  This you
double and treble, until it is about three inches long. Through the middle
you tie a stout cord, to the bottom of which is a round dipsy.  Over this
last the two ends of the bunch, which should be about the size of a boy's
fist, hang.  You anchor your boat on the muddy fiats cf a rive?. at high
tide, or lean over the bank of a creek or river at a iriuddy bottomi, and drop
in your bob and sinker. Presently you feel a sharp pull. Draw up into the
boat, or on the bank. Your eel has his teeth entangled in the thread, and
cannot generally let go until he is in the boat, or on the bank. Night is
the time, and the sport is sometimes very lively.
The way to grasp an eel on the hook, is to place the second finger on one
side of him, and the first and third on the other, about an inch and a half
from his neck.  Then by pressing the fingers together he cannot move, and
you may take the hook from his mouth, and throw him in your basket.
GARIFISII.
This troublesome fellow, cailed often the garpike, having a long bony
snout, armed with teeth, is a great nuisance to all boys in the West and
Southwest, when they fish, by stripping off their bait. No hook will enter
his hard snout.  The best thing, when garpikes are around, is to go somew.vhere else.  If you want to catch him, however, prepare a bunch of thread
and horsehair, which dispose of around your live bait, loosely but firmly.
145
7 
ANGLING.
Pull out suddenly on the bite, and the chances are that the gar's teeth will
be so entangled that he will drop on the bank.
CATFISH.
The ordinary mud-cat, bull-head, or bull-trout, is little prized, and may be
caught, like a red-horse, by ground-bait, either a worm, piece of beef, or
dough-bait.  But the blue catfish of the Western waters fights very well;
and there is a variety, called the white catfish, which comes from the
sea in the east, to spawn yearly, about June and July, that is game, and
rather handsome. Ho is more slender than the others, semi-transparent
when held to the light, has a forked tail like a herring, and weighs from four
ounces up to four pounds. He may be caught lItke the other. In the Schuylkill River, a number were kept from returning to the sea by the erection of
the dam at Fairmount, and they bred in the river in great numbers.
ROACH.
This is a silver-sided, handsome fish, small, and considered poor eating.
He may be taken in most of the rivers in the eastern part of the Northern
States, in the same manner as the sunfish.  He will bite well at small lumps
of dough.
GOLDFISH.
These fish, which are a species of carp, originally brought from China, have
escaped into many of our rivers, from fish-ponds, and have bred there.
Their capture is like that of the sunfish, as is also the
C HUB.
But this is mostly found in small streams, under the bank, or near projecting roots. They, with the dace, shiner, minnow, and gudgeon, are principally used for bait. A willow swivel, a No. 10, 11, or 12 hook, a stout
piece of sewing-thread, a worm, and a quill float, if the latter be required,
and you can land them very rapidly.
146 
SHlEEPSHEAD.-DRUMFISH.-WEAKFISH.
As some of our young readers may happen to live near the shores of the
ocean, or some bay, or may be taken there on a visit, we will mention the
principal fish caught off the Atlantic coast. The finest of all these, probably, is the
SHEEPSHEAD.
He has a smutty face, banded sides, prominent eyebrows, a grooved dorsal fin, extending entirely down his back, and a queer mouth, not unlike a
sheep's, whence the name. To capture him you require a strong cord, a quarter
of an inch in diameter, from twenty to fifty yards long, a heavy sinker, and
a stout blackfish hook, and either soft shell clam, with the shell on, or
small rock-crab, and fish near the bottom.
There is a fresh-water sheepshead, caught at times in the lakes, but he is
worthless, his flesh being tough, leathery, and disagreeable.
DRUMFISH.
This is a very large fish, and not likely to be taken by a boy alone, and we
only mention it because, when you are fishing for bluefish and bass, you may
get one on your hook, and unless you are very expert, and he is very smallsay about fifteen pounds only in weight-lihe will Oeach you the necessity of
always taking extra hooks and leaders when you fish.
WEAKFISII.
This is sometimes called -wheatfish, and sometimes scueteague. He has
an even tail, speckled back and sides, one or more sharp, long front teeth in
the lower jaw, and yelloNvish  ventral fins.  lie is found chiefly in salt or
brackish waters, in New Yor, Connecticut, and Massachusetts.  He bites at
shrimp and shedder crab, and is to be caught with the same tackle and in
the same manner as the striped bass, with whom he herds. They will be
found, however, in rather deeper water, farther from shore, and more in
the eddies.
147
0 
ANGLING.
KINGFISH, OR BARB.
This is the most spirited fish in resisting capture that can be found. He
is only found in New York bay, and there only as an occasional visitor. He
is about sixteen or eighteen inches long, with a pendulous bit hanging from
his under lip, light brown color, glossed with blue and silver, and dark
blotches and spots.   He may be captured with striped bass tackle and
bait, but wants about a No. 4 Salmon hook.
BLUEFISH.
This fish is taken by trolling with the artificial squid, a piece of lead,
mother-of-pearl, or bone, about four inches long, armed with a No. 0000
Kirby hook, with the bend of the hook at right angles with the fiat side of
the squid. The line is cotton, stout, and from forty to sixty yards long.
When the fish is hooked, haul in steadily and without intermission, or the
fish will throw himself off
BLACKFISIH.
He is sometimes called the tautog. He may be found in the bays from
Cape May to Cape Cod. Striped bass tackle, and soft-shelled clam bait, are
wanted for the blackfish; but he will often bite readily at the large salt
beach-worm. You must look for him on rocky bottoms; and he will not
bite well during a thunder-storm, nor in dull weather.
REDFISII.
This is a fish to be found southward of Cape Hatteras, as far as Pascagoula, and occasionally in Delaware Bay, and on the New Jersey coast. His
length is from one to four feet. He is almost like silver in color, but becomes darker after getting out of the water, and dying shows the prismatic
colors. Just in front of his tail-fin, near the back of the tail, is a black or
brown spot, bordered with white, which has given him the name in some
148 
SEA-BASS.
places of the branded drum. ilis time of biting is from March until January, except very far south, where he is taken all the year. He is caught
with a stout hand-line and cod-hook, with shrimp bait or pieces of fish. He
may be taken with rod and reel by a patient and dexterous angler.
CODFISH.
Off the coast of Massachusetts these fish are mostly taken.  There is no
art in catching them. A coarse, strong cord, a large blackfish hook, a piece
of mud-clam, or moss-breaker, and a heavy sinker. They bite fiercely.
TOM COD.
This, sometimes called the frostfish, looks like a young codfish, and is
caught in all the bays, inlets, and mouths of rivers along the Atlantic coast.
lit is a little fellow, running from six to fifteen inches in length. iHe can be
taken with the simplest tackle, and with soft clam, hard clam, or shrimp
bait, and occasionally will bite freely at worms.
SEA-BASS.
This fish is well known to all who are likely to fish for him. Sometimes
boys from New York, or other large cities on the coast, make an excursion
in company with older persons, in the steamboats which are chartered for
such a purpose during the summer months. All one has to do is to take
with him about eighty feet of stout hemp line, with two or three No. 1
Kirby hooks, and a dipsy weighing a pound.  This, with hard clams, well
salted, for bait, and a pair of old gloves, to keep the hands from being chafbd
by haulling on the line so much, completes his outfit.  He will be apt to
catch some porgies at the same time.
The other sea-fish boys are likely to meet with are flounders an4 smelt.
149 
The former are caught near New York and Boston, and all along the coast of
the Middle States, with a small drop-line, No. 8 hook, and soft clam bait. The
smelt is taken in the rivers of Massachusetts, New York, and New Jersey,
where they run to spawn in March and April, and return again in October
and November. They are caught with a small line, a No. 2 or 3 trout hook,
a short leader, and pieces of minnow or frog.
In fishing, the angler will often want to tie a secure knot. We can recommend the ~water-knot, made as follows:
To tie a leader to a line, you use the ordinary loop-knot, although the
neatest tie for that purpose is the loop hitch, which we give below..
There are many other fish which our space does not permit us to describe.
We have been obliged to content ourselves with a few remarks about the
best known specimens, and must trust to our young friends to improve their
knowledge, as they may easily do, by personal observation, and by inquiry
among the hardy fishermen who are to be found at all our sea-side resorts,
and are always ready and willing to gratify the curiosity that springs from
a praiseworthy desire to gain knowledge.
And thus we leave our young friends, with the hope that they may not
only amuse, but also instruct themselves at the sea-side. The end of all investigation into the nature and habits of living creatures is the same-an
uncontrollable wonder and admiration at the wisdom which has adapted the
structure of every thing that breathes to its wants and necessities; and a
recognition of the goodness of the Creator, on whom the "eyes of all wait,"
and who, with never-failing bounty, "givethl them their meat in due season."
150
ANGLING.
S'   ~~~ (,z=.~~~
, —                      -                  I 
0 
ELNCING. —-THE GUARD.
FENCING.
IT may be that no boy who reads this book will be called on to use either
the rapier or broadsword, but the value of the scientific management of
these weapons as an exercise,-from the grace it imparts to the movements, the vigor to the system, the keenness of eye it encourages and
promotes, is undeniable.  The most eminent  physicians concur in recommending these exercises, that of the small-sword in particular.
In learning fencing with rapiers, there are required for each one, a strong
wire mask to protect the face; foils, or mock swords, with buttons on the
tip; a well-padded glove for the hand, and a shield of leather sewn on
the front and collar of the jacket. Before proceeding to exercise, the buttons 
on the tip of each foil should be carefully examined, to see that they are
secure,
4  being ready, the beginner puts himself in the position called
THE GUARD,
From which all movements, whether offensive or defensive, are made.  The
beginner must stand with his knees straight, his feet at right angles, heel to
heel; the right foot, right side, and face directed to the master. The body
must be held upright and firm, the arms hanging down by the side, but
easily and without constraint; the left hand holding the foil a few inches
beneath its guard. Next let him bring the right hand across the body, and
1 5 L
I._ - 
-,,   z-  
seize the foil-handle; by a second movement, bring the foil above the head,
the hands separating as they ascend, until both arms be nearly extended
upward and outward. Here pause. This may be called the first position of
the Guard.
These movements should be frequently practised, as they accustom the
arms to move independently of the body, flatten the joints of the shoulders,
and give prominence to the chest.
To arrive at the second position of the Guard, the right arm, with the foil,
is brought down to the front, until the right elbow is a little above and in
advance of the waist; the fore-arm and foil sloping upward; the point of
the foil being the height of the upper part of the face; then, by a second
movement, the learner must sink down, separating the knees, and stepping
forward with the right foot fourteen or sixteen inches; for, of course, the
guard of a tall man will be wider than that of a short one. However, his
own comfort in the position will direct him as to the distance; and the general rule is, that the knee of the left leg will jut over the toes of the left foot,
and the right leg from ankle to knee be perpendicular. It is in this position that he will receive all attacks from an adversary, and from this position
will all his own attacks be made. Also in this position will he
ADVANCE
Utpon an adversary, when beyond hitting distance.  The step in the advrnce
is usually about that of the width of the Guard, although of course this
would vary with circumstances..  The step is made by advancing the right
foot the distance we have named; and on its reaching the ground, the left
foot is brought up and takes its place. To
RETREAT,
The reverse of the above movemenit is made. The left foot takes the lead,
stepping to the rear about as far as the right had stepped to the front; the
152
FENCING. 
THE LONGE.-THE RECOVER.
right occupying its place on its taking up its new position.  The next movement,
THE LONGE,
Is a very important movement, and is rather difficult to make properly, and
fatiguing to practise.  Indeed, the first movements in fencing are the most
trying to the learner; and he must not be discouraged if he fails to do them
correctly at first-practice only will give him this power. The Longe is
that extension of body which accompanies every attack, and is thus made:
the right arm is extended straight from the shoulder, tile arm and blade being on the same level; by a second movement, the right foot is raised from
the ground, and a step made forward, about eighteen inches in length, while
the left remains firmly planted in its place.  At the instant that this step is
made, the left hand is allowed to fall within a few inches of the left thigh,
and the left knee is stiffened back until the leg is perfectly straight.
The thigh of the right leg will now be in a position nearly horizontal;
from the knee downwards, perpendicular. IHaving executed the Longe, the
next movement to be made is
THIE RECOVER;
That, is, to return from the position of the Longe to that of the Guard, and
is thus effected: the left arm is nimbly thrown up to its place, the right
arm drawn in, and the left knee re-bent. These movements must be made
at the same time, as it is their imnztcd action that enables a person to recover
from so extended a position as the Longe quick enough to avoid a thrust, if
his own attack has failed.
These movements must be frequently practised before any others are
attempted-the Guard, the Advance, the Retreat, the Longe, and the
Recover; and when the learner has attained Qme proficiency in them, he
153
7* 
FENCING.
may begin the more delicate movements of attack and defence. Of these we
will now speak.
THiE ENGAGE.
It is customary for adversaries, on coming to the Guard, to Engage, or to
join blades, on what is called the i)side, that is, the right side; although
there are occasions on which it is advisable to engage on the outside, or on the
left; otherwise called the Quarte or Tierce sides.
Two men thus opposed to each other will at once perceive that there are
two lines of attack open to them, i.e., the line inside and the line outside the
blade-these, and no more.  But these may be, and in fencing are, subdivided into inside above the hand, and inside under the hand, and t~e same
subdivision for outside. This gives four lines of attacke-or, to speak more
simply, gives four openings through which an adversary may be assailed.
Now, to protect each of these assailable Ipoints, are four defensive movements, called
PARADES.
Each opening has its own parade or defence, and each parade will guard
its own opening, and, strictly speaking, no other. The opening inside above
the hand is defended by two parades.
As its name imports, the first and most natural parade is that of Prime.
The action of drawing the sword from its sheath is almost exactly the movement made use of in the parade of Prime.
In this parade, the hand is raised as high as the forehead, so that the
fencer can see his opponent's face under his wrist. The blade of the foil is
almost horizontal, but the point is rather lowered toward the ground. As
this parade will throw the right side of the body open to the adversary's
154
rat ~ ~ ~   ~      ~ 
QUARTE.-TIE RCE.
sword, it is good play to disengage from left to right, and deliver a rapid
thrust at the adversary, in order to anticipate him before he can bring his
own sword round for another thrust. His point will be thrown far out of
line, so that he is behindhand in point of time.
This is a very useful parade for fencers of short stature, as they can
sometimes get in their blade under their adversary's arm, after they have
parried his thrust.
The other parade is that of
QUARTE.
It is thus formed. On tlhe approach of the point of an adversary's blade
(and how these approaches are made we will presently explain), the right
hand is moved a few inches-three or four will be enough-across the body
on the inside; the hand being neither depressed nor raised, and the foil
being kept on the same slope as in the Guard. This guards the body on
the inside above the hand, but (and here comes an important law in fence
ing) the very movement which has guarded the body on one side has
exposed it on the other; this is the case with all the simple parades.
Suppose, now, that the exposed part outside above the hand were assailed,
then the defence for it is the parade of
TIERCE.
It is formed by turning the hand with the nails downward, aInd crossing
to the opposite side some six or eight inches; the hand and point at the
same elevation as before: this will guard this opening. If, however, the
attack had been made under instead of over the hand, then the proper parade would have been Secomde.
There is another method of parrying called Quarte, over the arm, which
155
i 
P'ENCIN(G.
is executed by making almost the same parade as in Tierce, with this exception-first, the hand is retained in its original position, with the nails upward; and, secondly, the point is not raised above the eye of the adversary.
It is rather more delicate than Tierce, but wants its power and energy.
The Ripostes, or reply thrusts, are made as they would have been had the
parade been that of Tierce.
SECONDE
Is formed by turning the hand in the same position in which it was turned
for Tierce, but the point of the foil slopes as much downward as in Tierce
it did upward; the direction and distance for the hand to traverse being the
156
i
I 
DEMI-CERCLE.-OCTAVE.
AndI
same. Again, had the attack been delivered at none of these, but at the
inside under the hand, then the proper parade would have been
DEMI-CERCLF-,
Which, as its name expresses, is a half-circle, described by a sweep of the
blade traversing the under line.  Next comes the parade of
OCTAVE.
In this parade the hand is held as in Quarte; the hilt of the foil is kept
lower than that of the opponent; the blade is almost horizontal, the point
being only slightly lower than the hilt, and directed toward the body of the
adversary.
157 
Octave is extremely useful when the fencer misses his parade of Demicercle, as there is but a short distance for the point to traverse, and it generally meets the blade of the adversary before the point can be properly
fixed.  Moreover, it brings the point so near the adversary's body, that he
will not venture to make another thrust until he has removed the foil
Thus we have enumerated, and partly explained, the forms and( uses of
these four parades: they are called Simple Parades, to distinguish them from
another set of defensive movements, called
CONTPRE-PARADES.
We have said and shown that a man standing foil in hand, in the position
of the Guard, is exposed in four distinct places to thrusts from an adversary,
within longeing distance.  W,e have also shown that he has a defence for
each of these exposed places; but if a man has but one defence for each
assailable part, then his adversary, knowing beforehand what the defence
must be, would be prepared beforehand to deceive him.  But if le has a
reserve-if he has a second defence for each part, then the adversary cannot
tell what the defence will be, until his attack, false or real, is begun.
To meet this contingency, a second series of defences have been devised,
which are of an entirely different nature from the Sirnple Parades.
Again, as each of the simple parades is framed to guard only one opening, it was found desirable that the contre-parades should be of a more comprehensive character.  They arc therefore devised so that ea(h is capable
of protecting the entire front. It is' evident that this object could not be
attained without thie sacrifice of quickness, because a larger space must be
traversed, and therefore more time is occupied with  a centre than a simple
parade.
To know one centre-parade is virtually to know all, as they are all formed
on the same plan. They are all full circles in the position of hand and
direction of foil of the different simple parades; or, more clearly speaking,
158
FENCING.
lr-\ 
ATTACKS.-TH E ONE-TWO.
each simple parade has a contre-parade; there are, therefore, four simple
and four contre-parades, which may be thus arranged:
Quarte......................... Contre de Quarte.
Tierce.......................... Centre de Tierce.
Seconde......................... Contre de Seconde.
Demi-cerele..................... Contre de Crcle.
We have said that a centre-parade is a full circle in the position of hand
and direction of blade of its simple; thus, contre de quarte is made by
retaining the hand in the position of quarte, while the foil describes a circle descending on the inside, and returning by the outside to the place of its
departure. So with all the others, the foil following the direction of the sqmple parade, of which it is the centre. These complete the entire system of
defences.
We now come to movements of an opposite nature, namely, the
ATTACKS,
And shall begin with the most simple of them. We will again suppose
two adversaries standing, en guard, within longeing distance of each other:
now, the most simple movement that the attacking party could make,
would be
THE STRAIGHT THRUST,
To the outside or inside, according to his line of engagement. We have, in
describing the longe, in effect described the straight thrust; it is but a longe
in a straight line, taking care, however, to feel firmly the adversary's blade,
but taking care also not to press or lean on it during the delivering of the
thrust.
Next in character comes
THE DISENGAGEMENT.
This attack is made by dropping the point of the foil beneath the adversary's blade, and raising it on the opposite side, at the same time, rising
with the arm fully extended on the completion of the extension the longe
is made and the thrust delivered.
THE ONE-TWO
Is but a double disengagement, the first being but a feint or false attack, to
induce the adversary to form a- parade to cover the part threatened, for the
covering of one part of the body exposes the opposite: the second disengagement is made to take advantage of this exposure.  The arm is extended
halfway on the first, and then wholly on the second, to be immediately followed by the longe.
The practice of this lesson evinces the advantages of a proper and sufficient extension, and a parade that is not too wide.  The quick extension
159
I 
FENCING.
of the left leg and right arm, performed during the disengage, should throw
the point towards your adversary's breast with such an emphasis as to
resemble a thrust; at once forcing him.to a parade, and taking a position
much nearer to his body, rendering a second disengage beneath his tierce
parade almost certain to hit, if not met with corresponding neatness by the
defence. The parades must be precise, coming to sufficient guard, and no
more.  If the parade of tierce be made  too wide  you cannot get back to
carte in time
Let the attacking party have the option of thrusting home in the one, as
the adversary's knowledge that it is but a feinthi may prevent him from going
fully to guard.
ONE, TWO, THREE.
When a facility has been acquired in practising the one, two, the pupils
may commence the one, two, three, making the first disengage by the extension of the arm alone; the two by the full extension; and the three by the
complete longe, to be answered by the parades of tierce, carte, and tierce again.
Let the attack be neat and deliberate, not exhibiting so much anxiety to
obtain a hit as to be correct and precise; quickness will follow, of course.
The attacked party should stand his ground, with his left foot firm; as
nothing gives greater promise of excellence than receiving the hit without
flinching the body. Make the parades neat, and keep cool; for any nervous
snappishness in your motion is fatal to good fencing.  The simple turn of
the wrist from carte to tierce, is almost sufficient to cover the body. Take
care that your hand is high enough, so that you do not oppose the foible, or
weak part, of your blade, to the forte, or strong, of your adversary's.
APPELS, BEATS ON THiE BLADE, AND GLIZADES.
Appels, beats, and glizades, tend to plant you firm upon your guard, to
embarrass your adversary, and cause him to give you openings; they may
be performed previously to simple thrusts, feints, or counter-disengagements, &c. An appel, or beat with the foot, is performed either on the
engagement of carte or tierce, by suddenly raising and letting fail the right
foot, with a beat on the same spot; taking care to balance the body, and
keep a good position on guard.
The beat on the blade is abruptly touching your adversary's blade so as
to startle him, and get openings to thrust.  If he resist the beat, instantaneously disengage, and thrust home. If hlie use a simple parade, mark
feint one, two; or, if he use a counter-parade, counter-disengage, or double.
Glizades are slightly gliding your blade along your adversary's, at the
same time forming the extension of the arm, or the complete extension,
managing and restraining your body, so as to be aware of his thrust, and to
make sure of your own. If you be engaged in carte, out of measure, a quick
advance, with a glizade, must infallibly give you some openings, either to
mark feints or otherwise.
160 
BEAT AND THRUST.-CUT OVER.
THE BEAT AND THRUST.
This is another variety of attack. Supposing the adversary's blade to be
firmly joined to yours, when you wished to deliver a straight thrust, there
would then be danger of your falling upon his point. This danger is avoided
by giving a slight beat on his blade the instant preceding your extension of
arm, of course to be followed en suite by the longe.
The companion attack to this attack is
THE BEAT AND DISENGAGEMENT.
The beat here takes the character of the first disengagement in one-two,
i.e., becomes a feint, and is intended to induce the adversary to return to
the place he occupied when the beat was made. You then immediately pass
to the opposite side of his blade in the manner described in the dizengagement.
It will be seen that all these movements pass under the adversary's blade.
However, there are certain situations in the assault, as a fencing bout is
called, when an adversary is more assailable over the point than undel the
blade; for this purpose there is what the French call the coupe sur point, or
CUT OVER THE POINT.
It is thus made: By the action of the hand, and without drawing it back
at all, the foil is raised and brought down on the opposite side of the adversary's blade, the arm being extended during its fall to the horizontal position,
on attaining which the longe is delivered.
CUT OVER AND DISENGAGEMENT
Is on the same principle as the one-two and the beat and disengagement. On
the adversary opposing the first movement (the cut) with a parade, the
second movement (the disengagement) is made to the opposite side, to be
followed of course by the longe; the extension of the arm being divided
between the two movements.
These attacks are called simple attacks, because they may be parried by
one or more simple parades, according to the number of movements in the
attack.  In fact, every attack can be parried, and every parade can be deceived: it is the additional movement last made which hits or guards.
Thus, you threaten by a disengagement to the outside; your adversary
bars your way effectually by the parade of tierce; you make a second disengagement to the inside, which is now exposed from the very fact of the outside being guarded (for both lines of attack cannot be guarded at the same
time), thus converting your attack into one-two; but if your adversary parries quarte on your second movement, your attack would be warded off.
This can be carried much further, but the above will, wethink, be sufficient
to explain the nature of simple parades and attacks.
161 
FENCING.
To deceive a contre-parade, a separate movement, called a doubl, or
DOUBLE,
Has been invented; it is very simple in principle, and admirably answers
the purpose. For instance, if you were to threaten your adversary by a
disengagement to the outside, and if, instead of tierce, he parried centre de
quarte, the double is then made by your making a second disengagement to
the same side as the first, for it will be found that his coitre de quarte has replaced the blades in the positions they occupied previous to your disengagement. You will then have an opening, and may finish the attack by the longe.
As all the contre-parades are on the same plan and principle, so are all
the doubles. Of course, it is understood that you will make all the movements of the double en suite, and without allowing your adversary's blade to
overtake yours.
ALL FEINTS.
The foregoing movements having been well practised in the lesson, the
next step is that of all feints and all parades, and may be practised either
with a master or fellow-pupiL The practice consists of one pupil standing
on the defensive entirely, while another assumes the offensive, and attacks
him with all the feints of which he is master, the other, of course, defending
with all his parades. It is excellent practice, as it accustoms the pupil. to
think for himself gradually, he having thus but one set of movements to
think about. He is therefore enabled to make them boldly, without having
to encounter unknown movements from his adversary.
It also enables him to see the extent of his resources, both for attack and
defence. When he can both attack and defend with some presence of mind
he may then begin
THE ASSAULT;
That is, he may encounter an adversary, to attack or defend as occasion presents. He is then left to his own resources entirely. The following
GENERAL ADVICE,
Given by a very eminent fencer and excellent teacher, cannot fail to be of
use:
"Do not put yourself on the position of the' guard within the reach of
your adversary's thrust, especially at the time of drawing your sword.
"If you are much inferior, make no long assaults.
"Do nothing that is useless; every movement should tend to your
advantage.
"Let your movements be made as much within the line of your adversary's
body as possible.
"Endeavor both to discover your adversary's designs, and to conceal
your owIL
162 
BROADSWORD.-POSITIONS.
"Two skilful men, acting together, fight more with their heads than
their hands.
'The smaller you can make the movements with your foil, the quicker
will your pomt arrive at your adversary's body.
Do not endeavor to give many thrusts on the longe, thus running the
risk of receiving one in the interim.
"If your adversary drops his foil by accident, or in consequence of a
smart parade of yours, you should immediately pick it up, and present it to
him politely.
"Always join blades (if possible) previously to another attack, after a hit
is given."
BROADSWORD.
The principal aistinction between the broadsword and the rapier is, that
the latter is formed only for thrusting, while the former is adapted for cutting also.  Indeed, those who use the broadsword are, inour opinion, too
apt to neglect the use of the point, and to give their attention almost
exclusively to the cuts,
The first lesson in the sword exercise is necessarily to know how to
stand. The learner should be instructed to perform the different movements by word of command, remembering to consider the first parts of the
word as a caution, and not to stir until the last syllable is uttered. At the
last syllable, the movement should be performed smartly. In giving the
word, the instructor always makes a slight pause, in order to give his pupils
time to remember what they must do. For example, the words Draw
Swords, is given thus: Draw..... Swords-the word swords being
spoken smartly, in order that the movement may correspond.
POSITIONS.
First Position.-Make the target* about fourteen inches in diameter,
and place it on the wall, having its centre about four feet from the
ground. Draw a perpendicular line from the spot at the bottom of the
target to the ground, and continue it on the floor, in order to insure the
proper position of the heels. The learner stands perfectly upright opposite
the target, with his right side toward it, his heels close together, his right
toe pointing to the target, and his left foot at right angles with the right.
His arms must be clasped behind his back, his right palm supporting the
left elbow, and his left hand grasping the right arm just above the elbow.
In this position, he must bend both knees and sink down as far as possible.
This will not be very far at first, but he will soon sink down quite easily
See accompanying figure (1).
* For target, see page 165.
163 
BROADSWORD.
Second Position.-This is accomplished by placing the right foot smartly
in front, about fourteen or sixteen inches before the left. (See Fig. 2.) He
must accustom himself to balance himself so perfectly on his left foot,
that he can place the right either before or behind it, without losing his
balance.
Third Position.-The third position must then be learned. This consists
in stepping well forward with the right foot, until the left knee is quite
straight, and the right knee exactly perpendicularly placed over the right
foot. Great care must be taken to keep the heels exactly in the same line,
and the body perfectly upright. (See Fig. 3.)
Fig. 8.
These preliminaries having been settled, the learner stands upright before
the target, as in Fig. 1. A sword is then put into his hand, and the target is
explained as follows:
164
Fig. 2.
Fig. 1.
'N 
TARGET.
TARGET.
The interior lines represent the cuts.  Cut one being directed from No. 1
diagonally through the target, coming out at 4. Cut two is the same, only
from left to right. Three is made upwards diagonally, and four is the same,
only in the opposite direction.  Cut five is horizontally through the target,
from right to left, and six from left to right.  Cut seven is perpendicularly
downward. Care must be taken that the cuts are fairly given with the edge.
The swords drawn on the taiget represent the guards. The seventh
guard ought, however, not to be made directly across, but must have the
point directly rather forward and downward, as a cut 7 glides off the
blade, and can be instantly answered either by a thrust or by cut 1.
d.
i,l
The two dark circles represent the places where the thrusts take effect.
The learner begins by taking the sword in his right hand, having its edge
toward the target and its back resting on his shoulder. His right arm is
-165
\'D~/I
a  
BROADSWORD.
bent at right angles, and the elbow against his side. The left hand must
res        t   upon the hi p, the    thumb being to the rear.  At the word- -
CUTS AND GUARDS.
CUTS.
Cut 1.-The young swordsman extends his right arm, and makes the cut
clear through the target. When the point has cleared the target, continue
the sweep of the sword, and by a turn of the wrist bring it with its back on
the left shoulder, its edge toward the left.  The arm is then ready for
Cut 2.-Bring the sword from 2 to 3, continue the movement of the
sword, and turn the wrist so that the point is below the right hip and the
edge toward the ground.
Cut 3.-Cut through the target diagonally, bringing the sword from No.
3 to No. 2, and bring the sword onwards, so that it rests with the edge
downwards, and point below the left hip. At
Cut 4.-Cut from 4 to 1, and bring the sword round until its point is over
the right shoulder, and its edge well to the right.
Cut 5.-At the word Five, make a horizontal cut from 5 to 6, and sweep
the sword round until it rests on the left shoulder, with its edge to the left,
and its point well over the shoulder.
Cut 6.-Cut horizontally through the target, from 6 to 5, and bring the
sword over the head, with its edge upward, and its point hanging over the
back. From this position,  Cut 7.-Make a downward stroke until the sword reaches the centre of
the target. Arrest it there, and remain with the arm extended, waiting for
the word
POINTS.
FIRST POINT.                             BEooND POINT
FirstPoint.-Drawback the sword until the right wrist is against the right
temple, the edge of the sword being upward. Make a slight pause, and then
iqo 
GUARDS.-PARRY.
thrust smartly forward toward the centre of the target, raising the right
wrist em high as No. 1, and pressing the left shoulder well back.
Second Point. -Turn the wrist round to the
left, so that the edge comes upward, draw the
hand back until it rests on the breast, and give
the point forward to the centre of the target,
raising the hand as before.
T'rd  Point.-Give the handle of the sword a
.\~'4gu~slight twist in the hand to the right, so that the
edge again comes uppermost, and the  guard
rests against the back of the hand.  Draw back
the hand until it rests against the right hip, and
deliver it forward toward the spot at the bottom
of the target, raising the wrist as high as the
spot in the centre.  The object in raising the
wrist is to deceive the eye of the opponent, who
will be more likely to notice the position of your
T ---— PO    wrist than of your point.  In all the thrusts the
TMIRD POINT.
left shoulder should be rather brought forward
before the point is given, and pressed well back while it is being delivered.
GUARDS.
Wait after the third point has been delivered for the word
Defend.-At this word drawup the hand smartly and form the first guard.
Make the other guards in succession as they are named, while the instructor
proves their accuracy by giving the corresponding cuts. The guards must
be learned from the target, by placing the sword in exactly the same position as those delineated.  The guards are these:
A. First guard.                E. Fifth.
B. Second.                     F. Sixth.
C. Third.                      G. Seventh.
D. Fourth.
The two spots H and I mark the places toward which the points are made,
H for the first and second point, I for the third.
-PARRY.
The parry or parade of a thrust is executed with the back of the sword.
The firmest way of parrying is to hold the sword perpendicular, with its
edge to the right and its hilt about the height of and close to the right
shoulder; then, by sweeping the sword round from left to right, any thrust
within its sweep is thrown wide from the body.
The parry is executed with the wrist and not with the arm, which must
not move.
167 
BROADSWORD.
HANGING GUARD.
When the pupil is acquainted with both cuts and guards, he should
learn the hanging guard, a most useful position, as it keeps the body well
hidden under the sword, and at the same time leaves the sword in a good
position to strike or thrust.
It is accomplished in the following way.  Step out to the second
position, as in Fig. 2, raise the arm
until the hand is just over the right
foot, and as high as the head.  The 
edge of the sword is upward, and
the point is directed downward and
toward the left.  The left shoulder
is pressed rather forward, and the
neck and chest drawn inward.
In this position the swordsman is
in a position to receive or make
an attack, as he may think fit.  It 
is rather fatiguing at first, owing
11   H~~~~~~ANGING GUARD.
to the unaccustomed position of the
arm and head, but the fatigue is soon overcome, and then it will be found
that there is no attitude which gives equal advantages.
There are two other modes of standing on guard, each possessing its
peculiar advantages. These are, the inside and outside guard. The inside
guard is made as follows:
INSIDE GUARD.
Stand in the second position, having the wrist of the right hand nearly as
low as the waist, the hand being exactly over the right foot. The point of
!
168
- I 
OUTSIDE  -UARD).-ATTACK AND DEFENICE.
the sword is raised as high as the eyes, and the edge is turned inward, as
will be seen from the foregoing engraving.
OUTSIDE GUARD.
The outside guard is formed in the same manner as the inside, with the
exception that the edge of the sword is turned well outward.
To get to the hanging guard, the words are given as follows: Inside
Guard-Outside Guard-Guard.
ATTACK AND DEFENCE.
The swordsman, having learned thus far, is taught to combine the three
movements of striking, thrusting, and guarding, by the following exercise:
12. Cut Five.
18. Fifth Guard.
14. Cut Six.
15. Sixth Guard.
16. Cut Seven.
17.  Seventh Guard.
18. First point.  [Prepare
for the point in First Position.]   Two.   [Thrust in
Third Position.]
1. Inside Guard.
2. Outside Guard.
3. Guard.
4. Cut one.
5. First Guard.
6. Cut two.
I7. Second Guard.
S. Cut three.
9. Third Guard.
10. Cut Four.
!l. Fourth Guard.
Our young friends will find the foregoing a really excellent piece of drill,
and sufficiently interesting also to make it a pastime. When the pupil can
accomplish all these combinations neatly, accurately, and promptly, he will
have made no inconsiderable progress as a broadswordsman or a single-stick
player.
8
169
I
I
19. Second Point. [Prepare f,)r it in First Position.]
Two. [Thrust in Third Poisition.]
20. Third Point. [Pre.
pare.] Two. [Thrust.] -
21. Parry. [Prepare to
pa"y in First Position.]
Two. [Parry.
22. Guard. 
BROADSWORD.
The young swordsman must remember that in this, as in all the exercises,
the cuts and points must be given in the third position, as in the accompanying illustration, which shows the swordsman just as he has delivered
the seventh cut, and is waiting for the next word before he resumes the
first position.
SVENTH  OUT.
The guards, on the contrary, are given in the first
position, as seen in the accompanying illustration,
which illustrates the seventh guard.
These exercises are always learned with the singlestick, or basket-hilted cudgel, in order to avoid the
dangers which would be inevitable if the sword were
used. But as the single-stick is only an imitation of
the sword, we will give the method of getting the
sword out of the sheath into any position required.
DRAW SWORDS.
The first word of command is draw swords. At the
word draw, seize the sheath just below the hilt, with the
left hand, and raise the hilt as high as the hip, at the
same time grasping the hilt with the right hand, turning the edge of the sword to the rear, and drawing it
partially from the sheath, to insure its easy removal.
At the word swords, draw the blade smartly out of
the scabbard, throwing the point upward, at the full
extent of the arm, the edge being still to the rear.
RECOVER SWORDS.
The wrist is now smartly lowered until it is level with the chin, the -
blade upright, and the edge to the left. This is the position of recover
swords. The elbow must be kept close to the body, as in the following
cut.
170
I
i
13]ZVZNTH GUARD. 
CARRY SWORM-PRACTICES.
CARRY SWORDS.
The wrist is now sharply lowered until the arm
hangs at its full length, the wrist being in the line with
the hip, the edge of the sword to the front, and its
back resting in the hollow of the shoulder, the fingers
lightly holding the hilt. The left hand hangs at the
side until the word inside guard, when it is placed on
the left hip.
SLOPE SWORDS.
At the word swords, raise the right hand smartly,
until it forms a right angle at the elbow.
RETURN SWORDS.
At the word, raise the blade until it is perpendicular,
move the hilt to the hollow of the left shoulder, drop
the point of the sword into the scabbard (which has
been grasped by the left hand and slightly raised), at the
RzcOvxuF SWORDS.    same time turning the edge to the rear.  Pause an in                   stant, and send the sword smartly into the sheath, removing both hands as the hilt strikes against the mouth of the scabbard:
drop them to the side, with the palms outward, and stand in the first position.
PRACTICES.
There are many exercises with the broadsword, called Practices. We have
given one of them, which is to be practised alone; but when the pupil has
attained some confidence in the use of his weapon, he must be placed opposite another pupil, and they must go through them, each taking the attack
and defence in turn.
The young swordsman must be provided with a very stout wire mask,
which defends the face and part of the neck, and which should be worked
in a kind of helmet above, to guard against the disastrous consequences of
receiving the seventh guard. No practices, loose or otherwise, should be
permitted without the masks, as neither party would be able to cut or thrust
with proper confidence.
SECOND PRACTICE.
This is very useful in teaching the point and parry, as well as giving
steadiness on the feet. Two boys are placed opposite each other, at just
such a distance, that when perfectly erect they can touch the hilt of their
adversary's sword with the point of their own.
The one who gives the first point is called Front Rank (there may be a
dozen in each rank, each having tried the distance to his right by extending
his sword), and the one who gives first parry is called Rear Rank.
17i
I
RZC,OVIMIF- 13WORDS. 
BROADSWORD.
ODO )'.     FRONT RANK.                     RBAR B]AI
Hlanging Guard. Hanging Guard.
Prepare to give Third Point.    Prepare to Parry.
'Give Third Point, and when
parried spring back to First Parry Third Point, and pre. Position, and prepare to par-   pare to give Third Point.
, ry.
j Parry Third Point, and prepare 1 Give Third Point, and pre  for Third Point.            f  pare to Parry.
Point.
Point, &c., &c.
This should be continued until both are weary. Both swordsmen should
learn to do it more rapidly every time they practise. Next time of going
through it, front rank and rear rank change places, as they must do in all
the practices.
THIRD PRACTICE.
WORD OF COMMAND.
Guard.
Leg.
Inside Guard.
Leg.
Outside Guard.
Leg.
Guard.
Slope Sword.
FRONT RANK.
Hanging                Guard.
Cut Four.
Inside Guard.
Cut Six [at Leg].
Outside Guard.
Cut Five [at Leg].
Hanging Guard.
Slope Swords.
In this and the other practices, the cuts must be delivered in the third
position, and the guards in the first. In the third and fourth practices, the
cuts must be given lightly, as many of them are not intended to be guarded,
but merely to show the powers of the sword in various positions.
FOURTH PRACTICE.
WORD OF COMMAND.
Guard.
Head.
Head.
Leg.
Leg.
Head.
Head.
Guard.
Slope Swords
In this and the preceding exercise, the power of shifting the leg is shown.
If two swordsmen attack each other, and No. 1 strikes at the leg of No.
2, it will be better for No. 2 not to oppose the cut by the third or fourth
guard, but to draw back the leg smartly, and cut six or seven at the adversary's head or neck.
In loose play, as it is called, i.e., when two parties engage with swords
~ithout following any word of command, but strike and guard as they can,
172
WOI&D or
Gu"&
Third Point
Point.
REAR RAN]R.
Hanging Guard.
(.',ut Seven.
Inside Guard.
Cut Six [at Neck].
Outside Guard.
Cut Five [,,it Neckj.
Hanging Guard.
Slope Swords.
FRONT RANK.'
Ranging Guard.
Seventh Cat.
Seventh Guard.
Fourth Cut.
Seventh Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Seventh Guard.
Hanging Guard.
Slope Swords.
BEAR R.ANK.
Ranging Guard.
Seventh Guard.
Cut Seven.
Seventh Guard.
Fourth Cut. -
Seventh Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Ranging Guard.
Slope Swords. 
FIFTiI PRACTICE.-DIRAWING CUT.
both players stand in the second position, because they can either advance
or retreat as they choose, and can longe out to the third position for a thrust
or a cut, or spring up to the first position for a guard, with equal ease.
It is often a kind of trap, to put the right leg more forward than usual,
in order to induce the adversary to make a cut at it. When he does so, the
leg is drawn back, the stroke passes harmless, and the deceived striker gets
the stick of his opponent on his head or shoulders.
We now come to a very complicated exercise, called the
FIFTH PRACTICE.
W   FRONT RANK.
Draw Swords.
Inside Guard.
Outside Guard.
Hanging Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Seventh Guard.
Second Cut [at Arm].
Seventh Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Second Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Seventh Guard.
Sixth Cut.
Seventh Giard.
Seventh Cut.
Sixth Guard.
Hanging Guard.
This practice is capital exercise, and looks very imposing. All these
practices ought to be so familiar, that the words of command are not
needed, the only word required being First, Second, or Third Practices, as
the case may be.
FORT AND FEEBLE.
The half of the sword-blade next the hilt is called the "fort," because it
is the strongest place on which the cut of an adversary can be received.
Always parry and guard with the fort of your sword, as, if you try to
guard a cut with the "feeble," which is the remaining half of the blade,
your guard will be forced, and the cut take effect.
DRAWING CUT.
The drawing cut is made best with a curved sword, and is executed by
placing the edge of the sword on the object, and drawing it over it until it is
severed. A good large mangel-wurzel is capital practice. Place the root
loose on a table, stand at arms' length from it, lay the edge of the sword lightly on it, and slice the root by repeatedly drawing the sword over it. This is
very difficult, though it looks easy enough, and is sure to jar the arm from the
wrist to the shoulder the first time or two,while the sword glides off as if the
173
WORD OF COMMAND.
Draw Swords.
Inside Guard.
Outside Guard.
Guard.
Head.
Head.
Arm.
Head.
Head.
Ar.
Head.
Head.
Right Side.
Head.
Head.
Right Side.
Guard.
REAR RAg
Draw Swords
Inside Guard. f
Outside Guard.
Hanging Guard.
Seventh Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Second Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Seventh Guard.
Second Cut [at Army
Seventh Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Sixth Guard.
Seventh Cut.
Seventh Guard.
Sixth Cut.
Hanging Guard. 
BRODSWORD.
root were cased in polished steel However, a little practice will soon overcome the difficulty. This cut is much in use among the Sikhs.
GENERAL ADVICE.
Never look at your own sword, but watch the eye and sword-wrist of your
opponent. 
Remember that the great point in this exercise, as in fencing, is to gain
time. Endeavor, therefore, to advance your point nearer your adversary
than his is to you.
Begin the assault out of distance, so that neither party can complain of
being taken by surprise.
If the two parties exchange a cut or a thrust at the same moment, the
one who gave his cut or thrust in the third position is victorious.
When a cut or thrust is made, the one who receives it passes his sword,
i. e., stick, into his left hand, and his opponent comes to inside guard.
Always spring back to the second position after delivering a cut or thrust.
Keep the line of direction carefully, or you will leave an open space for
the adversary to get his sword into.
We cannot be too careful to impress upon our pupils the necessity for
always making use of the mask in these exercises. One of the best draughtsmen of the present day, who is also a very fine swordsman, lost the sight
of one of his eyes through neglect of this necessary precaution.
In conclusion,  we  beg  our young readers to perform their Fencing
Exercises with decorum and gentleness toward each other; endeavoring, at
the same time, to execute all their parades, etc., with precision and elegane.
Let them then exhibit as little awkwardness as possible, and no loss of
temper; for ill-nature always mars the pleasure of any pastime.
174 
GOOD BOOKS.
The Parlor Magician;  or, One Hundred Tricks for the Draw ing-room, containing an Extensive and Miscellaneous Collection of Con juring and Legerdemain; Sleights with Dice, Dominoes, Cards, Ribbons,
Rings, Fruit, Coin, Balls, Handkerchiefs, etc., all of which may be Per  formed in the Parlor or Drawing-Room, without the aid of any apparatus;
also embracing a choice variety of Curious Deceptions, which may be per formed with the aid of simple apparatus; the whole illustrated and clear ly explained with 121 engravings.  Paper covers, price............ 30 cts.
Bound in boards, with cloth back ----------------------—... 50 ets.
Book of Riddles and Five Hundred Home
Amusements, containing a Choice and Curious Collection of Riddles
Charades, Enigmas, Rebuses, Anagrams, Transpositions, Conundrums,
Amusing Puzzles, Queer Sleights, Recreations in Arithmetic, Fireside
Games, and Natural Magic, embracing Entertaining Amusements in Mag netism, Chemistry, Second Sight, and Simple Recreations in Science for
Family and Social Pastime, illustrated with sixty engravings. Paper covers,
price.....          ____......... __................ —-------— O 30 ets.
Bound in boards, with cloth back......._ _......... 50 ets.
The Book of Fireside Games. Containing an Explana  tion of the most Entertaining Games suited to the Family Circle as a Re  creation, such as Games of Action, Games which merely require attention,
Games which require memory, Catch Games, which have for their objects
Tricks or Mystification, Games in which an opportunity is afforded to
display Gallantry, Wit, or some slight knowledge of certain Sciences,
Amusing Forfeits, Fireside Games for Winter Evening Amusement, etc.
Paper covers, price..... —---------------------------—..  30  ets.
Bound in boards, with cloth back...... —-----------------— 50 ots.
Parlor Tricks with Cards, containing Explanations of
all the Tricks and Deceptions with Playing Cards ever invented, embra  cing Tricks with Cards performed by Sleight-of-hand; by the aid of Mem  ory, Mental Calculation, and Arrangement of the Cards; by the aid of
Confederacy, and Tricks Performed by the aid of Prepared Cards. The
whole illustrated and made plain and easy, with seventy engravings. Paper
covers, price. ——...... -------------—. —------- --—. —30 ets.
Bound in boards with cloth back.................     __...  5   cts.
Parlor Theatricals;  or, Winter Evenings' Entertainment.  Con  taining Acting Proverbs, Dramatic Charades, Acting Charades, or Drawing
Room Pantomimes, Musical Burlesques, Tableaux Vivants, &c.; with In  structions for Amateurs; how to Construct a Stage and Curtain; how to
get up Costumes and Properties, on the "Making Upp" of Characters, Ex  its and Entrances; how to arrange Tableaux, etc. Illustrated with Engra  vings. Paper covers, price   _................                    30 cts.
,:ings. Paperovrs pr'ce, —---- ----------------------   ta
Bound in boards, cloth back.................................. 50 ts.
The Book of 500 Curious Puzzles. Containinga
large collection of entertaining Paradoxes, Perplexing Deception in num  bers, and Amusing Tricks in Geometry.  By the author of "The Sociable,"
"The Secret Out," "The Magician's Own Book."  Illustrated with a Great
Variety of Engravings.  This book will have,a large sale.  It will furnish
Fun and Amusement for a whole winter.  Paper covers, price         30 ets.
Bound in boards, with cloth back.... —------------------— 50  ets.
DICK & FITZGERALD, l1 Ant St., N. Y.
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GOit   ef thle S'bove boks sen to any. ay dreds in the  U. S. fr.. of post.gs oon.eoipt of pr,it.
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te J3ates, and in all the Countries of Europe  by.8. RILET, containing
Ruies for oelecting a good Horse, for Feeding Horses, etc.. Also, THE Cox  PLETE FARRIER; or, Horse Doctor; a Guide for the Treatment of Hores
in all Diseaes to wbich that nobe armal is liable, being the result of fifty
yea' extensive practe f the author, by 3o  a  XOwLsoN, during his
a    glihh F n  of bigh popuity, containfg the latest iscover iesin the cure of lpavu. Illtrated with descriptive  lngravings.. Bound
in boards, with cloth back.................. —.-..50 et.
The Poet's Compaton:  A Ditna  of aZl Aowable
Rhy  ine   the L~ ish Laua:.  hi is  a book to aid aspirin genius m
the Composition of RIhymei  and in Poetical Effusions genely   It gives
the Perfect, the Imperfect, and the Allowable lhymes, and will enable you
to ascertain, to a,  whether any words c   be mated.  It is invalu able to any one w   desire to court the. muses,and is usedbysome of the
bes      sinmth.countr.  pice......,......._....._._2.
The French Wine and Liquor Mauturer. A
P1      Guide and Private Receipt book fotie   rican Liquor Mer chant,  By Jo,x RAcx, Practical Wme and Liquor Manufaturer.  Illus trated with descriptive Diagrams, Tables, and Engravings.  This is by far
the rmost complete and reliable Book on the Manufacture of Liquor, ever
published.  Oloth, price................... _ s —t..''''-..'$3,00.
Theo -/Yo.m  g. ~~rtr; oor, Ho t  Wri SortHard. A
io p. Pho           ah Teach er,'intended to afford thorough instruction to
thoe who have not the asaistance of an Oral Teacher.  By the aid of this
wor, any person of the most ordinary intelligence may learn to Write
asort  a, and Report Speeches and  e0rmons in a short time. Bound in
boards, with cloth  c k —.price.......................50 ets.
The Nighthgale Songster; or,       of Love. Contain i.m  16~64 CoieSentimrental Sn,U         In boa  ib rds, with cloth back, and
'lluusurate  cover, p....-......,-,...-.........-_-.. 85 cts.
The Emeraldh; or, Book of Irsh Mclodi.  Containing a Choice
Collection of  Ish,Comic, and Sentimental Songs.  Bound in boards, With
cloth back, and illustrated cover, prie -3.5 ets.
The,B.lapack Full of Fun; or, 1000 Ratio of Lcughr.
Illustrated  ith over 500-CaMic Engravings.  Price.............. 3O  ts.
DICK & FITZGERALD, 18 Ann St., N. Y.
- 10   fi  ab-. bookieu xett y w adr     I th  U..  of    *n rep ofn reopt s.
:
: 
Spayth'. American Draught Player; or, TYe Theory ]
i a In lrac'ice of the Scientific Garbe  of  Checkers: Simplified and illas    i      trace  with  )ractical diaagrmiis; containing upwardls of 1,7()0 Games  antl
Positions.  By aHENRY  SPATII.  Third edition, with over two hundred
corrections and improvements, containing: The Stand.ard Laws of the
Game, Full Instructions, Draught Board, numbered(l, W.ames of the Ga0ie,rr,
and how formed, The "i Theory of the Move and its chancges  practically
explained and illustrated with Diagrams,'layina  Tables for Draught
Clubs, New Systems of Numbering the Board,'Prefixing Signs to the Varia   tions, List of Draught Treatises and Publications chronologicallyarranged.
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
o The Press are unqualified intheir commendation of this valuable work.
The following brief extracts are taken from extendq.d notices of it:
It is by far the best work upon the game that has ever been published."
— 21g~'a tic Jlonlthly Jlagazi 7 e.
Mn. SrPAYTH's book contains matter of the profoundestand most indispen sable-mom,ent."-T he Independent.
It is the most instructive treatise on the game ever published in any
country."-BuffaZo Courier.
b ound i  cloth, gilt side anl back.  Price........................... —------------------ $3  00
Spay-th's Game of Draughts.  Containing upwards of
'ive IHundred Games and Positions, Full Instructions, the Move anti its
Changes,;Lawsof the Game, etc.  By IENaRY SPAYTH, author of "The
American Draught Player."  This book is entirely new, and although it is
designed as an addition, or supplement to the author's first work,  " The
American I)raught Player," it is complete in itself. It contains lucid in   structions for beginners, laws of the game, diagrams, the score of 364
games, together with about 150 novel, instructive and ingenious' criti   cal positions." The wvork is an admirable treatise upon the noble game to
which MIR. SPAYTIi has given so much profitable study and thought, and
will, if possible, still further enhance his reputation, both as a player and
author. To the experienced Draught player it will, during the long winter
evenings, prove an invaluable companion,  and the novice can from its
pages learn a mental recreation that has been and is the delight,of many of
our greatest minds.  Cloth, gilt back and side. Price         -.._$1 50
S.,ayth's Draughts or Checkers for Beginners.
Being a comprehensive guide for those who desire to learn the game. This
treatisewas written by HIENRY SPAYTHa, the celebrated player, and is by far
the most complete and instructive elementary work on Draughts ever lub  lished.  It is profusely illustrated with diagrams of ingenious stratagems,
curious positions and perplexing problems, and contains a great variety of
interesting and instructive games, progressively arranged and clearly ex  plained with notes, so that the learner may easily comprehend them With
the aid of this valuable manual, a beginner may soon master the theory of
Checkers, and will only require a little practice to become proficient in the
game.  Cloth, gilt side. Price- ___.__                _...._75 Cents
That's  It; or, Plain  Teachinig.   By  the  author  of  "Inquire
Within, "The Reasoni Why,"  &c.  Illustrated with over 1,200 Wood
Cuts.  12mo., cloth, gilt side and back.  This book is a perfect encyclopedia
of universal information upon things common and uncommon, found in na  ture, art and science.  The whole visible world is swept within the circuit
of its touch, and the subjects are illustrated by wood engravings of an ex  cellent character, done in a high style of that art.  Over one thousand  -
wood engravings adorn its pages, from the round globe to the smallest
flower, and from thence to the tiniest insect. It is a library in itself, and to
a lad or miss of an inquiring turn of mind, it is a perfect Aladdin's palace
of useful and interesting information. Price.....- ------------ $1 50
.       _.  
oie  Or tne  bov ". book' S-t fre  or,      i        o  ref..   t.. 
Day's American Ready-Reckoner, coltaining Tables
for rapid calculations of Aggregate Values, Waes, Salaries, Boar,l, Inter est Moncy, &c., &c. Also Tables of Timber, Plank, Board and Log Me[ca  suremetes, with full explanations how to measure them, either by the
square foot (board measure), or cubic foot (timber measure).  Also,
how  to!leasure Wood  by the Cord, with Tables  applcable  to Piles
of WVood of any shape, and showing in  a simple manner no  to aser- i
tain the Contents in Cords of a Pile of any shape. Also, Tables  of
Land ineasurements, showing the Contents of a Piece of Land of almost
any shape, from a quarter acre np to ten acres, and telling esactly hots to
Measure Lanl in any quantity by Chains and Lanlis, or by Yards and Feet.
Also, telling how to describe a piece of land in deeding it.  Also, giving in  formation as to acquiring and locating a Farm on the Puiblic Laands of the
Lnited States. B13y B. H. DAY, This PReady-Reckoner is composed of
Original Tables which are positively correct, having been revised in the
most careful manger. The Table of Aggregate Values of' Mlerchandise
or Produce by the Piece, Pound, Yard, Foot, Inch, Gallon, Quart,
Pint, Peck, or Bushel, from an eighth up to 100 cents, br'nging in all
necessary fractions.  This set of Tables is very complete for reckoning
the aggregate values of articles priced at almost any fractonal part of a
dollar, and is of co rse applicable to articles of aiy price wlsatever, over a
dollar. It is perieat in this respect.  The second set of TLbles give the
value by the ounce of aricles sold by the ])ound from two cents per pound,
cent by cent up to oe dollar per pound.  Thle Table of NVa'es by tihe Week,
showing tlhe Wages from a fourth of a day n,) to four weeks.  The rates of
wags begin at twenty-five cents and gradually rise upl to twenty dollars
per week. Tables of Wages by the lIonlh, show the Wages per day and
Ifor any number of days in the month floro  one dollar uo to one ihundred
do!Lars per mionth. Tables of Salaries by tle Yeatr, shisw the amount of the
Salary for one day, and for any number of days up to one month, begin  ning at twenty dollars, and rising gradually Lip to iifteen hundred dollars
a-year. Tables of Board by the Week gi-e the bodard for cne day, increas  in one  day  at atime up to four weels, then the boarld for thirty days and
thirty-one days at rates frotm  one dollar, increasing gradually up to fifty
dollars per week. The Interest Tables show the rates at five, six, seven
and eight per cent. on any amount, from one day up to one year.  Then
come the B)ard, Plank and Timber Tables, showing the Contents of
Boards, Planks, Round Logs, and other Timber; also, the Wood and Land
Mleasuirements. These Tables are all prefaced by exlanaions telling ex  actly how to make the measurements, and giving easily un lerstood exam  ples, so that any person can measure for himself if ihe don't want to use
the tables, or distrusts them. This is, indeed, the most simple and easily
nderstood Ready-Reckoner ever printed..lost boolks of this kind are
hard to understand, and that is why Ike wanted to print one with explana  tions how the reckoning should be done. We think purchasers of this book
will be satisfied that we have succeeded in making a Reckoner that any  body can comprehend.  It is a book of 192 pages, and embraces more mat  ter than 500 pages of any other Reckoner. Bound in boar,ls, with cloth
back. Price......... -------------------------—.  -------— 50  I
Bound in cloth, gilt back.  Price......... —------------ 75
Bound in leather tucks [Pocklet Book Style.]  PIice            —...... -- $125
Mriner's  Domnestic  Poultry  Book.   A  Ti-eatise coc the
Historyl, Breeding and General Managemeant of Foreign and Domestic Fowvs.
By T. B. i.hiaR.  Author of "American Bee-Keeper's Mianual," embri  cing all the late Importations of Fowls, and being descriptions lby the bIest
Fowl Fanciers in the United States, of all the most valuable breeds, with
the author's extensive experience as a breeder, together wvith selected mat  ter of interest, comprising, as it is believed, the most complete and authen tic work on the subject ever published.  Illustrated with numerous Por traits from Life.  Bound in cloth.  Price....... —-------------------  $1 50
Co5ie.4 of         the a oIve btolio   scit free      f l,)i.ta   u'eit (o f Irice.
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Mrs. Crowen's American Ladies' Cookery Book. 
Comprising every var'iety of information for ordinary and holiday occasions,
and containing over 1200 original Receipts for preparing and cooking Soups
and Broths, Fish and Oysters, Clams, Muscles and Scollops, Lobsters,
Crabs and Terrapins, IXeats of all killds, Poultry and G.me, BEgs and
Cheese, Vegetables and Salads, Sauces of all kinds, Fancy Desserts, Pu1d  clin,san,  Custard s, Pies and Tarts, Bread and Biscuit, io1ls anld Cakes,
Preserves a.nd Jecllies, Pickles and Catsups, Potted  Ieats, tc., etc.  Tot-c  tlher with valuable and important hints on choosing and pirchasing all i
klinds of Provisions, and preparing Pipe Fruiits for Table, Bills of Fare for
the relief of young housekeepers, Arrangement of the Tabie for every varie  ty of Dinner ['arties, Etiquette of the Dinner Table, Cookery for Invalids,
Carving M~ade Easy, Etc. The whole benrg a complete system of Americin
Cookery. By MaRS.  T. J. CaowEN. Iliustrated with several diagrams. This
genuine and reallv practical American Cook Boo! is worth a thousand of
the fo eign republications which are issued from the press in this country.
Mrs. Crowen gives d;irections for making all sorts of econeoiical dishes,
bakin all kinds of cakes and pies, manufacturing every variety of confec  tionery, preserving, pickling, &c., so plainly that the housekeeper of a
week's standing  can easily act upon her directions, an(l yet she has taken so
coi,,prehensive a scope that the very best and niost skillful will find some  thing new.  All the Receipts in this work have been carefully tried, and
miy be relied upon as the result of actual experience.  12mo, cloth bind  ing, 474 pages. rice......... —--— 2 00
Myfartine's Sensible Letter Writer; Beinrg acoprehen  sive and complete Guide anld Assistant for those who desire to carry on
Epistolary Correspondence; Containing a large collection of model letters,
on the simplest matters of life, adapted to all ages and conditions,
EMBPIACING,
ss Letters;I Lelters  of Courtesy,  Friends?ip an
ations for.Employm ent, with Affection;
rs  of Recommendationi, and Letters of Condolence and Sy/tnaath
n ers to Advertisements;! A Ctoice Co'lectiorle ofLove. Lettle-s, fo
between Parents ady Cohis'd,e- i    Erery Situatio?u in a Cotrrtship;
Ler of Friendly Counsel andl  e- I    Note s of Cereiroi.y, Familiar Invita
strance;                             t ions, etc., togetler witih Notes of A
soliciting Advice, Assis.'ance, I cepia'ce acd Regr-et.
Friendly Favors;                 i
whole containing 300 Sensible Letters anld Notes.  This is an invalua
ook for those persons who hlave not had sufficient practice  to cnabl
to write letters without great effort.  It contains stuch a variety <
rs, that models m,y be found to suit every subject.  Bound in board,
illuminated cover and cloth back, 207 pages.  Price. ---—.. ---— 5
und in cloth..-.-..-....... _._.__._..___________.._.75
tine's Hand-Book of Etiquette and guid
['rue PolitenesS.  A complete Manual for all those who desire t
rstand good( lreedisig, the custosns of good society, and to avoid incorcand vwilgar habits.  Containing clear and com1)rehensive directions fo
ct manniers, conv(ersation, d(ress introductionis, rules for good behavi
nner Parties and the(  t able,                   1 ih  hits on carving a wd( vine at tue table
tlher with the Etiqiiette, of the 1,all and Assemnby Ioom, Eveniisg Par
and lhe usazes to bc lbserved when visitinr or r( ceivin  cals; deport
t in the street and wihen travelin.' To srhich is adled the htiquette o
tship, Marriage, Pomestic T)ttie, and fifty-six uiles to be cl)served i
ral society. IY ARTisUR MAPTINE, auithor of  Martine's Se,,sible Let
Vriter."  Bound in boards, with cloth back.  Price...........   50 Ct'
ad in cloth, guilt sides. Price...........................75."
— pie       t i 5                                              A I 0    p   f pbi-er
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Chesterfield's Letter Writer and Complete Book
OF ETIQUETTE; or, Concise Syslematic DZir-ections for Arranyiyng and
Writing Letters.  Also, lodel Correspondeace in Friendship and Business,
and a, great variety of Model Love Letters.  If any lady or gentleman de-   i
sires to know how to begin a Love Correspondence, this is just the book they
want.  If they wish to speak their minds to a tardy, a bashful, or a careless or indifferent lover, or sweetheart, this book tells exactly how it should be
done.  This work is also a CompleteBook of Etiquette.  Yo-u willfindmore
real information in this book, than in half a dclozen volumes of t he more ex pensive ones.  It is emphatically a book for the millionr, and one whihel
every young person should have.  As it contains Etiqauette for Ladies, as
well as for Gentlemen-Etiquette of Courtship and Marriage-Etiquette for
writing Love Letters, and all that sort of thing, it is an appropriate book t)
present to a lady. This book contains 136 pages, and is bound in pasteboard;
sides, with  cloth  back.    Price.....................................  ts.
Brisbane's Golden Ready Rec koner. Galcutua+d in
Dollars and Cents, beinq a useful Assistant to Traders in buying and( seliin
various sorts of commodities, either wholctle or retail, showing at one the
amount or valuc of any nLunber of articles, or quantity of goods, or  any
inerclandise, either by the gallon, quart, pint, ounce, pound, quarter, hun  lred, yartl, foot, inch, bushel, etc., in  a    nd plaiin manne,r. To which
a,e adedod Interest Tables, calcunlated in dollars and cents, for days and for
months, at six per cent. and lt seven per cent. per annum, alternately; an l
a great number of other Tibles and Pules for calculation never before in
prin'. Bound in boards, cloth back.  By WILLIA   I D.  ]RISBANE, A. M.,
Accountant, Book-keeper, &c. Price.............................. ts..
Richardson's Monitor of Free-Masonrv. A Com  plete Guide to the various Cereinoniesand Routine inFree-Mlasons' Lodges,
Chapters, Encampments,:Hierarchies, &c, &c., in all the )Degrees, whether
Modern, Ancient, Ineffable, PhiIosophical, or Historical.  Containin, also,
the Signs, Toliens, Grips, Pass-words, Decorations, Dranery, Dress,  tegalia
and Jewels, in each Degree.  Profiisely illustrated with Explanatory En.  grav.ing,3, Plans of the Interior of Lodges, &c.  By JA'Bz RICIiArI.SON,
A. M. A book of 185 pagecs
Bound in paper covers.  Prce....                     -50 cts
Bounld and gilt.  Price 0.........0......
This is the onlv book ever -,.ittcen wiichl  gives a detailed description ),
the doings inside a Masonic meeting.
100 Tricks WViti Cards.  J. I-L GxrN, the Refornec
Gambler, has just authorized the publication of a new edition of his bo)ok
entitled, "Gamblers' Tricks with Cards Exposed and Explained."  This is
a book of 96 I)ages, and it exposes and explains all the Mysteries of the
Gambling Tables. It isinteresti'n, not only to thosewho play, but to those
who do not. Old Players will get some new ideas from this curious book.
Paper covers. Price.....3..                          0  ots
Bound in boards with cloth back. Price.........;50 cts
Boxing   Iv,ade  Easy;  or,  The  Coipletle  la,nual of  Se,'f Defense.  Clearly Explained and Illustrated in a Series of Easy Lessons,
with some Important HIints to Wrestlers.  Price.... —.       15  ts.
Hovw to Win and How to Woo. Containing  
the Etiquette of Courtship, with directions showing how to win th
the L.adies, how to begi,  anud endl a Courtship, and how Lo.re.Lett
be written.  Price...._....................
Cstl~aC ofthe above book-s sent free of sp~siss is reset        - Off  -{..
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— 13 cts. i! 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed
ncan's Ml,asonic Ritual and Monitor: or, Guide
te Three Symbolic Degrees of the Ancient YorTc Rite, Entered Apprentice,
!etow Craft, aed Master Mason.  And to the Degrees of Mlark Master,
Pst,stler, Mlost Excellent Master, and the Royal Arch.  By MALCOLM.
).UNCAN.  Explained and Interpreted by copious Notes and numerous
Eravings.  Although this work is a complete Ritual of the Symbolic and
pter Degrees, and is also profusely illustrated with engravings of the
ret Signs and Grips, it is not so much the design of the author to gratify
curiosity of the uninitiated, as to furnish a Guide to the Younger
mbers of the Order, by means of which their progress from grade to
de may be facilitated.  It is a well-known fact that comparatively few
he fraternity are "Bright Masons," but with the aid of this invaluable
sonic Companion any Mason can, in a short time, become qualified to
e the Chair as Master of a Lodge.  Everything in this book is clear and
rect, and it gives in the plainest possible language an understandable
cription of all the Rites and Ceremonies practiced in the above-named
erees  Nothing is omitted in it that may tend to impart a full under ading of the principles of Masonry.  The Ceremonies as they are (or
uld be) performed, the Pass-Words,  Grips, Signs, Tokens, Jewels,
blems, Lectures, and Plans of the Interior of Lodges, are all explained,
h numerous Notes and Engravings, (all new.)  Tiis is a valuable book
the Fraternity, containing, as it does, the MODnRN "WORK" of the
er.  No Mason should be without it.  It is entirely different from any
er Masonic book heretofore published. Bound in cloth. Price_ -$2 50
ther tucks [Pocket-Book Style] with gilt edges.-.    -     ------- $3 OO
vry Woman Her Own Lawyer. A Privata Guide
Iall matters of Law, of essential interest to Women, and by the aid of
ch every Female may, in whatever situation, understand her legal course
redress, and be her own Legal Adviser.  By Geoi,oGE BisnHo.  Large
o, nearly 400 pages, bound in half leather. This book should be in the
ads of every woman, young or old, married or single, in the United
tes.  Price   _..............._.......$1 50
rgan's Freemasonry Exposed,ancd Expla,ined.
hwing the Origin, history and Nature of Mlasonry; its effect on tile Gov menrt and the Christian Religion; and containing a Key to all the De es of Freema,sonry.  Giving a clear and corr-ect view of the Manner of
ferring the different Degrees, as practicedl in all Lodges throughout tlo
be. Price...... —.........25 ots.
A s of Beauty;  or, Secrels of a Lady's  Toil'et.  With Hints
Gentlemen on the Art of Fascinating.  By Madame LOLA MONTEZ, Coun5 of Landsfeldt. Cloth, gilt ide. This book contains an account, in detail,
all the arts employed by the fashionable ladies of all the chief cities of
rope, for the purpose of developing and preserving their charms.
ccie ---------------------------------------------------------—.75   t.
eDictionary  of Love.   Containinig a D9fiiiltion of ail
terms used in Courtship, with rare quotations from Poets of all Nations,
ether with specimens of criouls  [odel Love Letters, anl many other inesting matters alp)ertsain;-,  to Love,  nev,r before published.  12ino,
th, gilt side and back. Price...-$1 50
M!Tanufacture of Liquo rs,'Ti-:as aid, Co,-dials.
thout the Aid of Distillation,  also,  tal  Ianifactlure of Efiervescing
erages and Syrups, Vinegar an! Dittlrs  Prepared and arran,ged exssly for the Trade.  By Pirrte LACovz. 12mo, cloth. Price..-$2 50
ok of 1,000 Tales anid A,iusing Adventures.
ainine ove(r 300 XEnzravings, and 4r0 pages. This is a magnficentbook,
1;; crlivabe  full of naritives fnd avrcntures.   Price... —------- $1 50
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9nt Free of Postage at the Prices marl
:e Ameriea   Bo  s            Boo  of si)oi-ts a:i,, (-:,e.....
jb.he  $! ~o ole,  m. I..o1 t~[omc Ainuseni ms,_l..
rAtellef  Sports for Poys.  Is 1i           9 4 Egravir, F,i....e
The  PI?y-PRoom, or Ii-In)oor Ga'Imies for lloys nii(d (Girls.   ill,7
The Play-Ground, or Ouit-I)oor (flaes tor oys.      I-14 Illu IIstrait
Book of  louiseliold Pets, or lIo,, to T',,ii.ia.i l(,,,I,g, f'r.l,
Book of 500  Curious Puzzles.,  l11ilrstra,ioli         -         ----
Book of Fireside  Giames,;,I(.i in.e icrertis, s —-.. —
1Bofk of PRidles and  500 Amusements,.
Pr) Ior T'rieklis withl Cards.  7o -------—,-,  -..
The  Pallor  M      a1giian.  ]lii ofris  121 Er5i0s.
Parlor Th4eatricals.  (A   B tioa m  ramg4          PlaysI,
Mlarti-ne'  Sensible Let ter W,riter. ago Notes atid Lete,
Martine's Hand-Book of Etiquette. e           (Good Dook,.   -     -
Day's American  Ready,Reekoner,iid PeOlp)'le Calcall,tto
1illgrove's Ball Roolm Guide.  Fill of l,xplalnaltory lllostnl
The Yong  Reporter, or nlo,, to liWrite Slort-land,..
Spayt,I's Game of D)raughts, for                 -              -egher.-... —:Marasche's MIanual of the Game of  Chess,         of 
The Amnerican  Card Player                         ---------— 0 —T'he  Perfect Gelntlemanl.  A, Aniiiericnin 1Bkook ofEtiue(,lt e,
Mrs. C-'owon's Collplete Book of American  Cooker
he Poet's Conpaiioi    A I3ilrioii,,, of iiy,,ii                    2..
DICE & FITZGE:1-ALD, Publis ers,
N:Ew  YotI:.
!O  &  FITZoGRALID will send any of the above Works by
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G-)OI) BOOKS.
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60
50
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50
50
50e:
50
50
50
501.
50 
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