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BRIGHAM YOUNG. 
LIFE AMONG
THE' M O RMONS,
/(,?one
AND
A MARCH TO THEIR ZION:
TO WHICH IS ADDED A CHAPTER ON THE INbIANS OF THE
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS OF THE WEST.
BY AN OFFICER OF THE U. S. ARMY.
NEW YOR K:
MOORHEAD, SIMPSON & BOND.
X8 6 8.
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ENTtRED according to Act of Congress, in the year Ix868, by MOORHZAD,
SIMPSON & BOND, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
United States for the Southern District of New York.
AGATHYNIANl PRESS, 60 Duane Street, N. Y. 
RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
TO
REv. JOHN P. NEWMAN, D.D.
(OF THE M. E. CHURCH,)
At whose suggestion this book was written, and
As A MARK OF REsPECT TO A FAITHFUL PASTOR,
A WARM FRIEND,
AND A TRUE CHRISTIAN GENTLEMAN,
Whose real worth, in these several capacities, has been fully
appreciated  and  admired.    His  social  relations  are  among
the most pleasant memories of
THE'AUTHOR,
While his ministerial duties and friendly sympathies will
remain prominently associated with an event that will long
cause pensive thoughts, but the recollection of which will the
more firmly establish the most profound friendship. 
.1 
INTRODUCTIO.N.
LAST spring I left St. Louis under orders of Major-General Pope, then commanding the Department of the Missouri, to accompany troops from that City to Camp Douglas,
which overlooks the City of the Saints in the valley of the
Great Salt Lake.
I started without any intention of writing a line descriptive of my journey, further than might be contained in my
private correspondence; nor did I conceive the idea of preparing anything for publication until several weeks after the
completion of my journey, when, in a letter from my friend,
to whom I have inscribed this book, I was requested to furnish an account of my journey, and of the Mormons, for publication in the New Orleans Idvocate, of which he is the
editor. 
INTRODUCTION.
I commenced a series of letters, with many misgivings a.
to my ability to make them entertaining or instructive.  As
the only record I kept of my experiences and observations
was in a small pocket diary, I lacked the inspiration, which
a record of scenes and events would have received if written about when they were observed or transpiring, and had
to trust much to memory for incidents.
At the conclusion of the series my friend again comes
forward and suggests their?ub,Lcation in book-form.  Several
other friends agreeing with him as to the fitness of things
in doing so, I have relied upon their judgment more than
upon my own, and compiled the letters for publication in
their present form.
All the letters have been carefully revised, and some of
them considerably elaborated, while those in which 1
attempted a history of the Mormons have been almost
entirely rewritten and very largely added to.
It has been my fortune to have extraordinary opportunities of familiarizing myself with the practices and inner life
of that strange people, and what I have herein recorded is
no mere sensational narrative, to create a popularity for the
work, but a plain statement of what I believe to be facts
vi 
INTRODUCTION.
I am not at liberty to mention the names of the parties
from whom I received most of the information concerning
the Mormons; but suffice it to say it was from those who
spoke of their own personal knowledge and observation.
Having no aspirations for notoriety as an author, and
having written these pages more for the gratification of my
friends than for any advantage that can accrue to me individually, I would refer the reader to the Rev. Dr. Newman, as in a measure responsible for the publication, and I
have no doubt, if he cannot indorse all that I have written,
he will vouch for the honesty and disinterested motives of
THE AUTHOR.
Utah Territory, s 8 67.
VII 
i
I 
CO N TEN TS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGI
FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNEY.
FortLeavenworth.   xSth U.S. Infantry.  Major Van Voast and other offi    cers. The Ladies. Large Train. Incidents connected with it. An
Old Friend. Indirect Roads. The Overland Stage Route. Ranches.
Character of the Country.   The Mirage.   Amusements.   Indians.
CHAPTER II.
FROM FORT KEARNEY TO FORT McPHERSON.
Fort Kearney. Without any Work of Defence. Dilapidated Post.
Additions to our Command.   More Ladies.  The Great Overland
Emigrant Route.   Small Trains in an Indian Country.    Change in
appearance of Country. View from the Sand Buttes. Indian Outrages.
Ranches for Defence.
CHAPTER III.
FROM FORT McPHERSON TO FORT SEDGWICK.
Fort McPherson.   New Post.   Its Garrison.   Death.   Grazing for our
Animals. Taking in a Herd. Ranches again. Beauvals. Trading
Arms and Ammunition to the Indians.   Neglect of Agricultural
Pursuits and why neglected. Buffalo Gnats. An Officer narrowly
escapes being Shot.   Julesburg.   Adobe Houses.   Fort  Sedgwick.
Major Norris.   Foiding the Platte.  Cold Weather.   The Command
Divides.
I
9
x6 
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
PAGg
ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
Why the Creek is so Named. An Indian Lodge. Occasional Disappear    ance of the Stream. Natural Route for the Pacific Railroad. Beaver
Dams. Antelopes. Prairie Dogs. Rattle Snakes. Lonely Route.
Severe Hail Storm.
CHAPTER V.
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
Snow-clad Mountains. Prairie Flowers. Black Hills. Old FortWalbach.
A Canon.   Pretty Camping Ground.  Hilly Journey.   Snow-balls
in June, Grand View of Laramie Plain and Medicine Bow Mountains.
A Party of Sioux Indians.  A Cold Bath.  No Game.   Elk.  Cold
N;ghts.  Soldier Burned by the Indians.
CHAPTER VI.
- FROM FORT HALLECK TO THE NORTH PLATTE.
.Fort  Halleck.   New   Post.   Fort  John Buford, and  afterward Fort
Sanders.  Unsettled and  Wild  Country.   Disregard of Civil Law.
Summary Executions. High Prices. Command Further Reduced.
Soldiers Healthy on a March. More Wild Flowers. Fatal Accident on
the North Platte. Affecting Scene. The Overland Stage Company.
The Liberality of the Government toward It. How the Government
-has been treated in Return. Inferior Coaches and Poor Animals,
,How Mr. Colfax was transported. A Band of Ute Indiaps. An Un,pleasant Ride with two Indians.
CHAPTER VII.
FROM BRIDGER'S PASS TO GREEN RIVER,
The Western Slope. Warmer Weather. Change in Appearance of
Country. Musquitoes. Returning Californians. Why they Return.
Defunct Montana Gold Mining Company. Coal and Petroleum.
Artemesian Plain. Bitter Creek. Profitable Hunting. California
Horses.  Snow-capped Mountains again.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
PAGZ
FROM GREEN RIVER TO FORT BRIDGER.
Green River. Can it be Navigated? Not Fordable. Ferry and how
Constructed. Ham's Fork. Traders. Black's Fork. Church Butte.
Moss  Agates.  Fort  Bridger.  Its  Location  and  Surroundings.
Formerly Held by the Mormons.   Game.  Judge Carter.  "Uncle
Jack."  His Habits.  Fondness for Frontier Life.
CHAPTER IX.
MORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER.
Rich Land on the Reservation.  Its Mineral Resources.    Why  it is not
Settled.  The  Garrison of Fort  Bridger.   Galvanized  Yankees.
Demoralization  of Troops.    Dishonesty of Officers.   Adventure
in a Snow Storm. Accommodations at a Ranch. Severity of the
Storm. Camped Out. Close Quarters. Daylight, and a Walk to the
Fort. Its Difficulties. Wading Streams. Arrival at the Post.
A  Three Days' Ride  considered a Trifle.   Accommodations for a
Night.  Anothor Night in the Cabin of a Mountaineer.
CHAPTER X.
FROM FORT BRIDGER TO WANSHIP SETTLEMENT.
Bridger's Butte. Fine Scenery. The "Muddies." Quaking Asp Hill.
Bear River. Cache Cave. Echo Canon. Tall Bluffs. Mormon
Defences.  Mormon Shot.  Conversation with a Teamster.   Fresh
Vegetables. The Echo of Bugle Sounds. Trout Fishing. Black
Birds, Ravens, &c. Farms. Coalville. Mormon Meeting-House vs.
Photograph Gallery.
CHAPTER XI.
FROM WANSHIP TO SALT LAKE VALLEY.
Wanship.  Lager Beer.  " Sisters."  First visit to the House of a Polyga    mist. Difference in the Women. Silver Creek. Caion. Parley's
Park. Why so named. Kimball's Hotel. Grazing Lands. Parley's
Canon. Wild and Grand Scenery. More Trout Fishing.
I
xi
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71
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XII.
PAGN
SALT LAKE VALLEY AND THE CITY.
First View of the Valley. Camp Douglas. The City. Twin Peaks of
the Wasach.   Beautiful Landscape.   Post of Camp Douglas.  Col.
Johns. Warm Sulphur Springs. Baths. Location of Salt Lake City.
Its Bulwarks.   Character of its Buildings.   Immigration.    Presi    dent's Block. Fruit. Temple Square. The Temple. The Taberna   cle. "Bowery." Theatre.   Hotels.  Business Houses.   Photograph
Galleries.  Neswspapets.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE DEAD SEA OF AMERICA.
My Compagnons de Voyage. Salt Lake. Black Rock. Density of the
Water.  Why it Remains Salt.  Salt Works.  Bath in the  Lake.
Floating upon the Surface. Different Accounts of the Buoyancy of
the Water. Drive Back to the City.   Hot Springs.   A  Mistake.
A Lake on the Top of the Mountains. A Gorgeous Sunset on Salt
Lake.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE MORMON CHURCH.
The Tendency to Abuse the Mormons. First Favorable Impressions.
How they Change.   Extravagant Accouuts.   Early History of the
Church. Joseph Smith its Founder.  His Death.   Brigham Young.
Sidney Rigdon succeeds Smith. Brigham Deposes Him. Mimicry of
the Martyr.  Persecution drives the Saints to the Far West. The
Pioneer Party locate Zion.   The Hosts Emigrate.  Their Hardships
and Sufferings. Brigham's Ability as a Leader.  Organization of the
Territory. The  State of Deseret.  The  Cause of the  "Mormon
War." Brigham declares Martial Law. March of Gen. Johnston
to Utah.   Settlement of the Difficulty.   Diplomacy of Brigham.
Advantages Gained by the Mormons.
xii
86
97
106 
CONTENTS.
PAGZ
CHAPTER XV.
DOCTRINES OF THE MORMON CHURCH. POLYGAMY.
Articles of Faith. Doctrines modified from time to time, God's Mate    riality. The Materiality of the Holy Ghost. A Man imagines him    selfAdam. Church Government. The Presidency. The Patriarch.
The Apostles. " The Seventy." The High Priests. The Bishops. The
High Council. Other Officials. Polygamy of Modern Introduction.
Its Origin. Brigham publishes it. Cause of Dissention. Smith said
to Authorize and also to Condemn Polyvgamy, Denounced by Promi    nent Saints as late as x850. Forbidden in the Book of Mormon and
of Doctrines and Covenants.   The Polygamy Revelation.
CHAPTER XVI.
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
Inconsistency known by the People. Object in Instituting Polygamy.
Marriage essential to Woman's Happiness in Heaven. Inducements
for Men to become  Polygamists,   Women  enter into Polygamy
from Pure Motives, No Proper Appreciation of Marriage Re    lations.   Celestial Wives.   Sealing for  Eternity,   Marrying in
Polygamy. First Wife must be Consulted. A Man Wants to Marry
a Family.   He  fails and seeks the Servant.   Women  counselled
to Marry. Mormons Marry Other Men's Wives. Bishops negotiate
for Wives and Husbands.   Hurried Marriage.   Wives self-support    ing.   Women Resigned.   Jealousy.   Husbands cease to Respect
their Wives.   Wives reproach themselves for Marrying.   Barren
Women not respected.  Indecency.
CHAPTER XVII.
POLYGAMY CONTINUED.
Discontent in the Harem.    Prophet's Lecture to Women.    He offers to
Release  his Wives.    His offer impracticable.    Divortes.   Easily
Obtained.    Women advised to get Divorced.  Adultery.   Immoral
Influences of Polygamy.   Soldiers taking Mormon Women home.
Polygamy probably on the  decline.   More  strongly advocated in
consequence.   Brigham urges it.  Salt Lake Telegraph on the sub    ject.    The  Legislature  memoralize  for the Repeal  of the Law
Prohibiting Polygamy. Inconsistency of such Teaching. Extent of
xiii
115
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CONTENTrS.
PAGS
Polygamy.   Danger.   How Brigham talked to Mr. Colfax on the
Subject.  Duty of the Government.                                  145
CHAPTER XVIII.
WHERE THE MORMONS COME FROM AND HOW THEY
REACH SALT LAKE.
Their Missionaries Abroad.   Statistics of Immigration.   Nationalities of
Immigrants.   How Missionaries are Appointed.   Good Missions
Sought After.   Bad ones regarded as Punishments.    How Mis    sionaries are Supported.   What constitutes Going without Purse or
Scrip.   How they are treated in England.  Presidents now allowed
to take one Wife Abroad.    A Second Wife turns up in Liverpool
and passes as a Sister.   Harsh Words about a President.   Where
Meetings are held.   The  Advantages  of Zion  induce many  to
Unite with Them.    Zion Equal to Canaan.   Apparent Interest in
Spiritual Welfare.   God's Physical Kingdom.    Duty of Saints  to
Build it up.   Emigration Money.   Separation of Families of Emi    grants.   Fourteen Girls shipped without a protector.   Emigrant
Ships.   Provision for the Voyage.   Organization.   A  Drunken
President.   Slight Offense.   Amusements.   Land at New York.
By  rail to the Missouri  River.   No  provisiol for Sick.   How
Teams are provided.   Emigrants walk.   Hardships.   How  the
People are kept contented.   Hand-Carts for Transporation.  Arri   val in the City.
CHAPTER XIX.
MORMON WORSHIP AND MORMON DIGNITARIES
Public Services in the Tabernacle.   Mr. Cannon's Sermon.   Brigham
Young's  Sermon.   First Sermon of a Proselyte and his History.
Brigham's Appreciation of Education.   Sacrament  of the Lord's
Supper. Ward Meefings. Semi-annual Conferences. No Sabbath
Schools. Dancing. Social Parties. Celebrations July 26. Dress.
Schools. Appearance, &c. of Brigham Young. Heber C. Kimball.
Daniel H. Wells.   Other Officials.   The  People.   Agriculture.
Characteristics of the people.  Amelia, the Last Wife.    Danites.
Porter Rockwell.
xi,v
159
173 
CONTENTS.
PAGS
CHAPTER XX.
CRIMES OF THE MORMONS AND HOW MORMONISM
MAY BE ERADICATED.
Mormons Intolerant. Mountain Meadow Massacre. Mormons Disguised
as Indians. Evidence of Mormon Complicity. Bones of the Slain
buried Years Afterwards.   Other Murders.  Impossibility of admin    istering Justice.   Murder of Morris.   Of Dr. Robinson.   What
holds together the Mormons. Brigham's Will supreme. Is Brig    ham an Impostor or Fanatic?   His Death will terminate Mormon    ism.   Enlightenment ot the People needed.   Dissentions.  Influ    ences of a Gentile Population.  Mutual Benefits to Church anrd Gov    ernment  in  Co-operation.    Duties  of the Church.   Rev. Mr.
McLeod.   Gradual Abolition of Polygamy.
CHAPTER XXI.
THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
Similarity in Habits. Localities of Different Tribes. Sioux. Theirhos    tility.  War with the Snakes.   General appearance.   Their  Phys    ique.  Squaws.   Their  Dress.   Pappooses.  Births.  Infidelity of
Squaws.   Men  and Boys goad riders.  Weapons.   Scalps.   Scalp
Dance.   Chieftainship.   Medicine Man.   How he Cures.   Steam
Baths. Deception. Smoking. Marriage. Polygamy. Robes and
Skins.   Their  Dead.   How  Buried.   How  they  define  time.
Signs.  Diet.  Powers of Endurance.   Tortures.   The  Character
of the Indian.   Despicable in every way.   Indian Council at Fort
Laramie.   Its Results.    Interior  Department  temporizing with
Indians.    Gen.  Sherman's actions.    Commissioner  of  Indian
Affairs.
xv
187
203 
v, 
Life among the Mormons.
CHAPTER I.
FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNEY.
FORT Leavenworth was, in April last, the grand rendezvous of troops of the regular army, who, as in former
times, were to garrison posts on the frontier, whence they
had been withdrawn in'6i to aid in suppressing the late
great rebellion.  From that point they were to proceed to
the various forts North of the Arkansas, and as far West
as Salt Lake City.
Outfits for several commands, as large as the one I accompanied, were furnished at Leavenworth; but so complete were the arrangements for meeting the demand, and
so prompt the action in the different departments, that but
little delay occurred, and, after camping only a few days in
the vicinity, we struck tents and commenced our long
Westward march.
The location of Fort Leavenworth is doubtless familiar
to the reader.  It is in Kansas, on the south bank of the
Missouri, about 500 miles above its mouth, and overlooks
the thriving city of the same name.   It is one of the oldest
military stations of the West, and has for many years been
the depot from which supplies have been furnished the
various posts on the plains.
It was my good fortune to accompany a detachment of
the I8th  U. S. Infantry, consisting of one  battalion of
eight companies, and recruits for two other battalions,
numbering in all about 1300 men. 
FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH
The whole was under the command of Major Van Voast,
an experienced officer, long familiar with frontier life on the
Pacific coast, and subordinate to him were a number of
-)fficers, belonging to the same regiment, who had proven
their fitness for the positions they held by long and gallant
services in the field with our Western armies. They were
all strangers to me then; but three months of intimate,
and constant association, caused a warm mutual friendship
to exist, which will remain among the most pleasant memories of my army life.
But I must not in this connection neglect to refer to the
most pleasant feature of the journey we were then about to
commence.    The  presence of  six ladies in our company, it is unnecessary to say, contributed largely to the
enjoyment of the trip.   Some of these ladies had campaigned with their husbands before, but the majority were
then to experience life without the bounds of civilization
for the first time. The latter class, however,-and among
them were young ladies who had never been beyond the
sound of a piano or a church bell,-appeared to enjoy the
trip throughout more than those who were already familiar
with the inconveniences incident to a journey of the kind.
For our large command, with its attaches, on a long journey, no insignificant amount of transportation was required,
and thanks to the obliging quartermaster, at Leavenworth,
Col. Potter, our supply and baggage train was ample and
numbered over i oo six mule army wagons, besides six ambulances, and the private conveyances of officers whose
families accompanied them. There is something interesting
connected with this train. The wagons that composed it
had been sent overland the summer before from Washington, where they had been collected from the army of the
Potomac after the close of the war. It was a singular
coincidence to have  with us on  the  march the  same
wagons that had followed us in the Peninsular campaign in
'6i, two thousand miles distant. That such was the case
regarding some of them, our Quartermaster assured me
there could be no doubt, for he recognized on several, marks 
TO FORT KEARNEY.
which he had placed there when acting in the same capacity
in the 5th army corps, during the eventful campaign referred
to. A still more remarkable coincidence was that of a
driver having in his team a span of mules which he said
were, most unquestionably, the identical mules he had
driven from the position our army held in front of Rich- 
mond to Harrison's Landing on the James River at the time
of the retreat of Gen. McClellan in I862.
This brings to mind personal associations of my own
with an esteemed friend whom I first met about the
same eventful period, and who subsequently joined us on the
march. In'62 we were associated in the army of the Potomac, in'64 in the city of New Orleans, in'65 in St.
Louis, and in'66 we journeyed several hundred miles together over the plains ofthe far West, destined to different and
remote posts, possibly to meet again in our army career,
possibly only in eternity. We parted warmer friends, after
so many accidental, but pleasant, associations. The officer
I refer to is Surgeon Alexander, long the popular and efficient Medical Director in the Crescent City.
All things being ready for the march, on the 26th of
April, while the weather was yet cool and pleasant, and
before the fields were green with the grass of spring, our
column may have been seen wending its way over the hills
of Kansas in the direction of Ft. Kearney. For several
days we did not get beyond the enclosed and cultivated
farms, which in the absence of a regularly surveyed public
road made our course much more tortuous than when travelling over the unsettled prairie beyond.   It seemed at
times as if the road passed around three sides of a farm,
when there was nothing to interfere with its following the
more direct fourth boundary line. But the roads were excellent, and we in no hurry. What difference did it make to
us if our I20O miles journey should be extended five miles
by indirect roads?
After passing to the West, and within sight of Atchison, we struck the great overland stage route, along
which  we  marched  many hundred  miles.   The  sight
3 
4   FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH
of a stage-coach twice alily, and the constant presence of
telegraph poles, tended to relieve to some extent those
inclined to loneliness. With me it caused frequent thoughts
of loved ones  far away, with whom  such means could
speedily communicate  but from whom  I must necessarily,
for a long time, be separated.  From Atchison, Kansas, to
California, there is daily a line of stages making the entire
journey in sixteen days.* To conduct this great enterprise
successfully and profitably, it is necessary that there should
be frequent relays of horses accordingly there are stations
all along the line, separated IO or I2 miles, where thehorses are changed, and every 40 or 50 miles is a " Home
Station," where the driver changes also, to return over the
same road, so that each driver in a short time becomes
familiar with every part of his route. At the Home Stations passengers obtain their meals.
The route is divided into Divisions, over each of which
is a superintendent; and at the terminus of each Division
the passengers, baggage, and mails are transferred to other
coaches. All the changes are made expeditiously, and but
little delay occurs anywhere.   Mr.  Benjamin  Holladay
is the principal proprietor of the stage line, and is a man
of remarkable energy and enterprise.  I regret that my first
favorable impressions of Mr. Holladay and his line did not
continue.   I will hereafter explain why  I do not think
him  entitled  to all the laudations which  writers, who
have accepted his favors, heap upon him.
Along this part of the route, in addition to the Stage
Stations, there are many "Ranches" for the accommodation of emigrants, and also, and more particularly, for the
profit of the keepers,  They are generally constructed of
logs and very rudely  built, but most of them contain a
good assortment of the more essential articles required by
* Since the above was written the extension of the Pacific Railroad, westward, along the Platte river, has made Omaha the eastern terminus of the California overland route, instead of Atchison i and passengers already have the
monotony of thejourney broken by several hundred miles ride in the cars. 
__       ~
_ _ _  A
ffi  __     _
ffi __
____________    \        I  _______
ji~
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A HOME STATION.  
TO FORT KEARNEY.
the emigrant, as well as some he does not require. Canned
fruits and vegetables are conspicuously displayed upon the
shelves, making perhaps a greater show for the same cost
than other articles the establishment contains, and generally
no inconsiderable quantity of "Hostetter's Bitters"     a
form in which the emigrant may obtain very poor whiskey
at a very high price-occupy prominent places upon the
shelves also.  In addition to Stations and Ranches there
are also several trading towns or villages between Leavenworth and Kearney. Seneca, about six days journey (as we
travelled) from Leavenworth, is quite a thriving and enterprising place. I found the cunning Yankee trader at Seneca
as well as every where else where a store is kept on the
plains, and paid for my dealing with one by being badly
cheated in some cigars.
The country over which we passed from Leavenworth
to Kearney presents a beautiful, regularly undulating sur face, and is watered at convenient distances for daily
marches, by numerous streams.
The rolling prairies of Kansas differ widely from the broad
plains of llinois. The reader who has only seen the latter level
can form but a poor idea of the beauty and grandure of the
former.   One who has sailed over the ocean during a calm
the day after a storm, and has observed the gentle elevations
and depressions of its surface, without a ripple upon the wa ter, and can imagine a vast extent of country, extending far
away to the horizon all aroind, as smooth as the sea, and
with the same regular undulations of its surface but magni fied a thousand times, can orm some idea of the vastness
and beauty of the country over which we journeyed from
Leavenworth to Kearney.
The atmosphere is clear and rarified, and objects can be
seen a long distance.  The mirageabout the horizon adds
increasing beauty to the scenery. When observing eleva tion after elevation far away in the distance, until the last
little hill seems to support the cloudy dome, we could see
reflected on the sky the appearance of a beautiful silvery
lake, with its islands and its trees. To one unaccustomed
s 
6   FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH
to the scene, and  not informed  as to its true nature, the
optical delusion is complete.   Objects near the horizon
with the sky as a back-ground appear of immense size-cows
eight or ten miles distant look like elephants, and a David
would seem to be more than a Goliath in stature.
This vast uncultivated region is not only pleasing to the
eye in viewing its topography, but possesses a fertility of
soil unsurpassed, I should suppose, by any farming lands in
the country.  The  slightest cultivation would cause it too
yield to the husbandman the most luxurient crops of every
product of the richest valleys of New York or Ohio, and
we predict for Kansas, when the great highway-the Pacific Railroad-shall have been completed, and emigration
poured into the State, an agricultural wealth equal to that
of any other part of the Union.
The country as I stated before, is not without water, but
many clear and rapidly flowing streams are found in its fertile, and in some instances, cultivated valleys. The names
of these streams are not very classic or poetic.  We crossed
the " Big  Sandy," the " Little Sandy," the " Big  Blue,"
" Bull  Creek," and  the " Big  Muddy."   But  the latter
should not be mentioned in the same connection with the
prairie streams of this country.  It is not a stream at all, except after a rain, but a series of disgusting standing pools
which are kept constantly stirred up to almost the consistency
of butter-milk, for a mile on either side of the road, by
thousands of animals, belonging to the passing trains, being
driven into them to drink. Along this part of the route,
only, is water scarce; but here for 35 or 40 miles the " Big
Muddy" affords the only water, except the small wells at the
Stations.
I must tell the reader something of the incidents of our
journey, and not confine myself to a description of the country
only.   Such a trip as ours was certainly an enjoyable one
and I enjoyed it in other ways than admiring the scenery.
How incomparably more pleasant to travel, as we did, to
being rushed over the road, night and day at break-neck
speed, in one of Ben Holladay's coaches, be the comforts 
TO FORT KEARNEY.
afforded in the latter all that the ingenuity of the great
contractor could offer a Colfax and party.
Our marches were from I8 to 20 miles a day; starting at
5 o'clock in the morning, and going into camp usually about
noon. The remainder of the day was spent in such recreations and amusements as the country afforded, and the taste
of the indiuidual would lead him to indulge in. But to me
the whole march was recreation and amusement. Not being
required to accompany the column, I wandered off for miles
in search of the better game of the country.   Everywhere
we found birds numerous. For prairie chickens we hunted
away from the road: for ducks along the streams, and in
the little pones to be found here and there; for the English
plover we sought out the marshy places, and there were the
snipe also; for the smaller birds-prairie plover, and meadow
larks it was not necessary to leave the road, but shoot
them from the ambulances as we rode along. Those of us
fond of bird-shooting found abundance of such sport, and
our tables were daily supplied with at least some luxuries
which would be highly relished even in New Orleans where
there is always so much to gratify the palate. I remember
on one occasion bringing down with the two loads of my
gun, nine large English plovers-more than a mess for all the
ladies in camp. In the afternoon it was no uncommon
thing to catch within a hundred yards of our camp (for we
always camped on a stream), a good mess of small pan-fish
for our early breakfast the next morning.   So with plenty of
prairie chickens, ducks, plover, fish, potatoes, and canned
vegetables, in variety, there was but little danger of scurvy
to be apprehended among those who could indulge in such
luxuries.
The evenings were spent in the tents playing chess or
cards, or in reading or conversation, according to the
inclination of the party.  But I early sought the embrace of
Morpheus to be willing to rise at the sound of reveille in the
morning, which usually was heard at 321 or 4 o'clock.
Think of the trial, in this way imposed upon an individual,
who, up to the commencement of the march, indulged in the
7 
8  FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH &c.
bad habit of lying in bed in the morning until called to break.
fast a 81 or 9 o'clock, I early adapted myself to the new
state of things however, and soon failed to regard it a
hardship to rise with the early bird.
No danger was to be apprehended from hostile Indians,
south of Fort Kearney, and the only red-skins now in that
vicinity are a small band of the Ottoe tribe, who have a
settlement on a government reservation a few miles east of
the stage road on the Big Blue.
We remained over Sabbath in camp near their village,
and many of the officers availed themselves of the opportunity of observing their domestic life, and visited their
wigwams, but I was not among the number, preferring to
wait until we penetrated further into the Indian country,
before studying the habits of the noble (?) Red Man.   I
saw enough of the Ottoes, however, to satisfy me that they
were a set of begging, thieving, filthy, disgusting savages.
Though  within a short distance of the white settlements
they had adopted but few of the customs of the white man
which added to their comfort, or advancement in civilization, but had acquired with readiness his vices.   They
were eager for whiskey, and I observed them gambling at
cards with the soldiers when unable to speak a word of
English.
They carried away the offal of our slaughtered cattle,
and doubtless enjoyed their dinner of it, as one of unusual
richness. And this occurred in a country where game is
plenty, and the fertile soil yields abundantly of everything
cultivated.
Sixteen marches brought us to Fort Kearney.   As we
approached the place, along the Platte River, it could be
distinctly seen when Io or 12 miles away, and in the
mirage, its building loomed up as the tall towers of an
ancient castle. 
CHAPTER II.
FROM FORT KEARNEY TO FORT MACPHERSON.
WE reached Fort Kearney on the I3th of May.   It is
one of the oldest posts on the plains, and is situated on the
South side of the Platte River, about 200oo miles from its
mouth.   The Platte possesses many of the features of the
Missouri, of which it is an important tributary, but is an
unnavigable stream, though through its bed flows an
immense body of water. It is in places from a, mile to a
mile and a half in width, and its current as rapid as that of
the great stream into which it empties.
The term " Forts," as applied to military posts on the
frontier, has caused a very general misconception of their
real character.  It is the popular opinion, where it has not
been corrected, that these forts are works of masonry, or at
least extensive earth-works, after the style of our permanent
fortifications in the States, or the more elaborate temporary
works constructed so extensively in some localities, during
the late war. But such is not the case. Fort Kearney,
like nearly all the posts I have visited, is without any work
of defense-not even a stockade.  It consists simply of a
number of two story frame buildings, arranged in the usual
way around a parade ground, which is the centre of the
post, furnishing quarters for the officers and men. There
are also additional buildings as store-houses, stables, sutler's
stores, &c. There are posts; however, in more dangerous
localities, where the quarters are surrounded by a stockade,
and others where slight earth-works exist, but such are exceptions to the rule.
2
z 
FROM FORT KEARNEY.
Fort Keariiey, as I said before is one of the oldest posts
on the plains, and the effects of time are plainly visible on
the buildings, many of which are quite dilapidated, and
some so tottering and frail that huge props extending to the
eves are necessary to prevent the high winds, prevailing
there, from levelling them to the ground.
In addition to the wooden structures around the parade,
there are a number of one-story buildings made of turf.
These are not the adobe houses of which the reader has
doubtless heard, and of which I will give a description at
some other time, when we reach a 16cality where they are
found.   The  turf houses are structures  made by piling
fresh sods one upon another in the manner bricks are
placed in a wall, with a little soft mud intervening to fill up
the interstices. The walls are made from two to three feet
thick, and these houses are said to be the most comfortable
at the post-warm in winter and cool in summer; but for
elegance they will hardly compare with some in the
Garden District of New Orleans.
At Kearney we replenished our  stock of  subsistance
stores, and received a large accession to our numbers.
Here Col. Carrington, who commands the i8th infantry,
was waiting with another battalion for us to join him, and
when we did so he commanded the whole.   Major VanVoast, who only temporarily commanded the detachment
from Leavenworth, relinquished his position to Brevet
Lieut. Col. Lewis, who joined us there, and the former
became a guest, as it were, on his way to Fort Laramie,
where he now commands. Col. Lewis I found to be in
every way worthy to succeed the efficient officer he relieved. It was my good fortune to serve under him, and I
shall endeavor at some other time to refer to my appreciation of his abilities as an officer, and his worth as a
gentleman  and  friend.   In  connection  with  the other
additions to our party, I must not here neglect to mention
the ladies. I referred to them last, when mentioning the
party that left Leavenworth, and now, again, they are brought
in as if not entitled to the first notice.   I beg their pardon.
IO 
TO FORT MACPHERSON.
They deserve to be prominent in my memory whenever
writing about the command. I was about to say that three
additions were made to the little circle of lady associates,
and among them Mrs. Carrington, the wife of the Colonel,
and the good Mrs. Dr. Horton, whose acquaintance I made
in New Orleans nearly two years ago. How delightful to
meet friends under such circumstances!
After a halt of a week we cheerfully resumed our journey, every one being weary of the inactive camp-life, and
anxious to lessen the distance between us and our destination daily. At Fort Kearney the three principal routes
from the East-from Leavenworth, Nebraska City, and
Omaha-unite to form the great overland highway for emigrants along the Platte. Here we saw more pilgrims on
their westward journey than at any previous time. Emigrants here are universally called " pilgrims," and camping
as they do only for a night, anid then off again on their
journey, makes the term not inappropriate, but to me suggesting loneliness and solitude. Notwithstanding a recent
order of Gen. Pope, requiring at least twenty wagons to
travel together, and thirty armed men, for defence against
the Indians, it was no uncommon thing for two or three
wagons only to compose a "train," and in them helpless
women and children,
Within the last two or three years many such trains have
been attacked and destroyed by the Indians,-the men killed
and scalped, and the women made to suffer worse than
death, and held as hostages for which large ransoms have
been required. To prevent such massacres and outrages,
the order forbidding small trains to go into the Indian
country was issued.  How astonishing it is that emigrants
with all the facts before them, should seek to evade an
order which contemplates only their own protection; and
how especially astonishing, that an emigrant should incur
all this risk with a helpless family.  But they do it constantly. Trains are organized at the various military posts,
but before they have been out two days they divide up into
small parties, until they are stopped at the next post, to reorganize.
I I 
FROM FORT KEARNEY
I was surprised to see so many women among the emigrants, and to see how easily they adapted themselves to
the hardships required in a journey across the plains.  As
a rule they travel without tents, sleep in and under their
wagons without removing their clothes, cook their bacon
and flour in a frying pan, or sometimes in a dutch oven
over a fire of " buffalo chips;" but they seem to enjoy
vigorous health, and appear contented and happy.   One of
the best drivers of a four horse wagon I observed on the
plains was a woman.
In addition to the trains going West, we met quite a
number belonging to freighters travelling in an opposite
direction. They had wintered beyond the mountains, and
were now making their usual summer trip. To curtail
drivers as well as rest the oxen, several wagons, for they
were empty, were tied one behind the other, and the oxen
of the first drew them all, while those thus rendered
supernumary were driven'in herds along with the train.
Throughout our march, but particularly along this part
of the route, where the travel is so extensive, the road is
strewn with the remains of animals who have perished by
the way.   From the recently dead beast, to the whitened
bones of those that had died long ago, their remains could
be seen almost constantly.  Interspersed with the bones of
the cattle were numerous buffalo skulls, unmistakeable traces
of the buffalo hunter in times past. These skulls and the
old buffalo-trails made when they sought the Platte for
water, or to cross in their yearly northern migration, were
the only indications we had that the animal ever frequented
the valley. At one time the buffalo were as numerous in
this section of the country as anywhere on the plains.   I
was informed by an officer who was stationed at Fort
Kearney, in 1853 that they were so numerous in that vicinity during the summer of that year, as to require on one
occasion a piece of artillery to drive large herds from the
immediate vicinity of the fort, as there was danger of them
being stampeded and rushing through the post, endangering
life and property. The old order book of that time is still
12 
TO FORT McPHERSON.
at the Fort, and corroborates the statement of the officer.
The only wild quadruped game now to be found in the
vicinity is the antelope. Their fleetness and timidity, how
ever, prevented  us from  securing any  there,but subsequently, along another part of our journey, quite a number
were shot, as I shall hereafter mention.
The country in the valley of the Platte bore an entirely
different aspect from that lying South of it, which we have
already described.   Here the surface was as level as around
New-Orleans, and as far as the eye could reach up and
down the river not the least irregularity could be observed
between the Bluffs on the South, and the river on the
North.  It is to that portion of the valley contiguous to
Kearney, that I refer; further West it assumes a somewhat undulating surface. Though different in appearance
from the country I admired so much, and referred to in my
first letter, this possessed a beauty of scenery in comparison not to be despised. The Platte river is filled with
islands,ranging in size from a half acre,or less of surface,to one 
60 miles long; and upon them are trees, and many of the
smaller ones are covered with an undergrowth of shrubbery,
while on the main land not a bush or a tree is to be seen.
But here the prairie grass was just assuming its richest
green, and the lovely little wild prairie-flowers represented
vegetation in a form quite as attractive as on the verdant
islands. In places, the beautiful purple and white blossoms covered the ground so thickly as to almost hide the
young grass; and here and there grew the cactus.
To the Sotth lay the sand buttes,as they are called,which increased in heighth, and became more abrupt as we proceeded
Westward. These and similar ones far away on the North
of the river where doubtless the banks of an immense stream
which covered this whole valley not many centuries ago.
From the highest of these buttes a magnificent view of the
valley and river could be had, and I availed myself of the
opportunity of seeing the country from one of them. I
found a few friends to accompany me, and arming with carbines and pistols (for this had been a favorite locality for In
I3 
FROM FORT KEARNEY
dian depredations the year before) we started for the hills,
which looked to be about a mile away; but the distance on
the plains is very deceptive, and it required a ride of three
or four miles before we reached their summit. The ascent,
as we approached, looked so gentle as to permit of riding up
at a canter, but we found it so steep upon approaching nearer,
as to render it difficult even to lead our animals to the top;
but we reached it, and remained for an hour in admiration of
the magnificent view which was there afforded.   Fortwenty miles either way the broad surface of the Platte, dotted
with its islands of verdure, could be seen in all its windings;
and, between it and the range of hills, the broad valley covered with the new prairie grass in all its richness. Far away
on the banks of the stream were the white tents of our camp,
which looked like a bed of mushrooms, and the herd of animals grazing nearer to the foot of the hills appeared like a
pack of hunter's hounds.  South of us was a succession of
hills and ravines-the former of sand and without vegetation;
the latter covered with long grass looking greener because
of the contrast with the barren hills surrounding them.   The
sight was altogether one of the grandest I had then ever
beheld, but I subsequently found that it was only initiative to
greater grandeur and beauty which awaited me in the mountains further west.   The sand buttes of the Platte were as
the Rocky Mountains in miniature.
Along this valley, only a year ago, the Indians had perpetrated the most barbarous murders, as well as destroyed a
large amount of property. The country is a peculiarly
adapted for their depredations.   The hills in some places
are but little removed from the river, affording the savages
a most excellent place for concealment.   From these hills
they watched for trains incapable of resisting on attack, and
sallied forth upon the defenceless emigrant, with whom retreat was impossible because of the river on the other side,
and he fell an easy victim to his brutal foe.
Not only were trains attacked, ranches pillaged and destroyed, but the occupants murdered.   In many instances
the latter abandoned their property, and sought safety at the
14 
TO FORT McPHERSON.
military posts. We passed the ruins of a large ranche where
$2o,ooo000 worth of goods had been destroyed last July, the
owner having left the premises only a day or two before the
savages were upon them. At Plum Creek, our second camp
from Kearny, were a large number of graves of settlers who
were murdered and scalped at the time I referred to.  All
along the road graves of emigrants were seen daily, generally
solitarv, but sometimes three or four together, and almost
invariably we found inscribed upon a rough head-board the
name of the individual buried there, and " killed by the Indians July-, i865."
I will defer any comments upon these barbarities for a
future letter, in which I propose to write more about the
Indians of the plains than space would allow to be included
in this. Notwithstanding the destruction of life and property along the Platte within so recent a period, the ranches
are as numerous this season, if not more numerous than before. The great incentive men have for conducting these
establishments is the profit arising from their sales, and when
we consider the risk incurred,and the discomforts to which the
keepers are subjected, the large profits asked on the goods
seemed not so unreasonable after all.
Most of the ranches, in dangerous localities are constructed with a view to defence against the Indians. The houses and
stables have loop holes from which the occupants may fire
upon an attacking party, and in some large corrals for
the cattle surrounded by a wall of sods connected with
the ranches, afforded a still  further  protection  against
the treacherous enemies of the white man.
In this locality nearly all the ranches are built of turf, like
the buildings at Fort Kearney, which I have described.
In many instances the roofs are of the same material, and
constructed by placing thatch upon a few timbers and upon
this is laid the sods.   Such roofs in Louisiana, during the
wet season, would not be considered very desirable, but
out here where but little rain falls they answer the purpose
very well.   The scarcity of timber, and the high price it
commands, prevents it from entering into the construction
f5 
FROM FORT McPHERSON.
ot raiiches excep to a very limited extent, and generally not
even for floors.
Six marches from Kearney took us to Cottonwood Springs,
where Fort McPherson is located. We reached that point
on the 24th of May.
CHAPTER III.
FROM FORT MCPHERSON TO FORT SEDGWICK.
FORT McPherson, so called after the able and gallant
general who was killed in Georgia in I864, was built about
the time of the death of the distinguished officer whose
name it bears.  It presents a neat compact appearance, and
is one of the few military posts surrounded by a stockade.
Its buildings are one-story log structures, rather rustic in appearance, but I considered it as altogether a more desirable
post than its next easterly and more venerable neighbor,
Fort Kearney.
Fort McPherson is located on a small stream running
into the Platte, familiar to the western traveller as Cotton
Wood Springs. It is about one hundred miles distant from
Fort Kearney, and is regarded as a post of considerable military importance, being in a country where frequent Indian
depredations have been committed. There were six companies, four of Infantry, and two of Cavalry garrisoning
the post when we passed.
Having no business there, the command marched by
without even a halt, rather to the disappointment of the
sutler, I have no doubt.
While on this day's march, in the vicinity of the Fort,
we lost one of our number-a citizen employed as clerk
I6 
TO FORT SEDGWICK.
for the Quartermaster, which was the only death that occurred during our three months' journey, save several from
an accident to which I shall hereafter refer.  We  buried
the poor man at our next camping ground, and the plaini
cedar head-board of his grave now stands, another sad spectacle to the passing emigrant.   His wife and several children continued a mournful journey along with us to Salt
Lake City, whither the husband and father was going to
reside.
The Platte river is formed by the con-fluence of two
streams-the North and South Platte, which takes place a
few miles west of the mouth of Cottonwood. Our journey then lay along the South Platte. Some change in character of the country and scenery, was to be observed.
The disappearance of the range of hills on the south, and
the valley merging into the broad prairie, gave it rather a
different aspect. About ten miles west of Fort McPherson
is Jack Morrow's Ranche, one of the largest on the plains.
It was the latter part of May when we journeyed along
the Platte. The new grass which had not appeared on the
prairies of Kansas, had here sufficiently matured to afford
excellent pasturage for our animals.  It was desirable that
the column should make an early start, and it moved from
Leavenworth before there was grass on the prairies for the
mules. They had been fed on hay, purchased at the ranches
along the route, and in some instances at enormously high
prices; but here there was no need of hay, and as soon as
the train was parked, the mules were all turned out to
graze. This was my first march with a mule-train, and I
observed much in the habits of that animal that surprised
me. In the first place, I was surprised to see how easily a
large herd of them can be controlled.   Three  or four
herders would have no difficulty in keeping together as
many hundred mules. They were allowed to graze only
during the day, and at night when they were to be tied up
to their wagons, they were brought in without the least dif ficulty. The wagon-master would take out a little grey
horse, fasten a bell to his neck, and start from the herd
2*
I7 
FROM FORT McPHERSON
towards camp, when every mule would stop grazing, and
follow on. As they approached the wagons, each would
select his own and go to it, to be haltered and fed for the
night.  After observing this and other things in their hab its, I came to the conclusion that the mule is a much slan dered animal, and will never refer to him again as an ex ample of stupidity. He fully bore out his reputation for ob stinacy, however.
Ranches continued as numerous along the Platte as they
were south of Kearney.   In referring to these establish ments in my first letter, I neglected to mention a very im portant item in their business, viz., the sale of grain and
hay to emigrants, during the season when animals cannot
subsist on the grass. The grain is brought from the Mis souri river, and commands a very high price, but the hay is
the wild grass that grows on the prairie, which is cut in the
summer, and stacked up until there is a demand for it.
The most extensive ranch or trading post I have seen
on the plains is one conducted by a Frenchman named
Beauvais.   It is on the South Platte where the old California road crosses that stream, and is known as the " California Crossing." Beauvais has accumulated a large fortune
since he started this ranch.  His principal profits are from
his advantageous trading with  the Indians.  This he does
on a verylarge scale, and it is the common  talk on the
plains that the savages obtain from him arms and ammunition with which emigrants are murdered, in exchange for
robes and skins.   He may be innocent of the charge, but
it is a singular fact that the Indians have never disturbed
Monsieur Beauvais' establishment, when almost every other
ranch in that part of the country has been destroyed, at
some time, and there has always been more plunder to be
had at the California Crossing than at any of the ranches
destroyed.
Agricultural pursuits are entirely neglected by the settlers in the Platte Valley, though the soil and climate are
such in my opinion, as would produce the cereals if not
more delicate vegetable growths.   In almost every respect
18 
TO FORT SEDGWICK.
it has the advantage of New England as an agricultural
country. The great draw-backs are the dryness of the
summer months, and the high winds that prevail. The
former could be overcome by irrigation as in Salt Lake Valley. After seeing what has been accomplished there by
this means I shall not hereafter consider the absence of rain
as a serious objection to a country where irrigation can be
resorted to. No difficulty would attend its adoption along
the Platte, and then the moisture necessary for vegetable
life would be more certainly afforded than is done by the
rains in the most favored agricultural districts.
The absence of timber is another draw-back. Not a
tree grows upon the banks of the Platte, and those on the
islands are entirely inadequate to the demand that would
arise for wood in a settled country. In the vicinity of Cotton
Wood Springs some cedar and cotton wood grow, back in
the bluffs, but with this exception the entire country from
Kearney to Sedgwick is entirely without timber.
Before starting from Leavenworth I provided myself with
a mosquito bar as an important article in my out-fit, and in
making up another for a similar trip I shall be as careful to add
a ladies' tissue veil. Mosquitoes are very annoying insects;
but I think the little buffalo gnats are, I was going to say
infinitely more so. To keep them off the face and neck is
what the veil would be used for. During two or three
marches along the Platte after a rain, these gnats proved exceedingly annoying. They are so small, that their presence
on the skin is not detected until the irritation of their bite
makes it known. Their favorite locality seemed to be on
the neck and behind the ears, and so thick would they collect, that after their bite not a particle of the skin of these
parts would be free from the swelling and inflammation.
While on the march from McPherson to Sedgwick one of
the officers of our battallion very narrowly escaped death
at the hands of a soldier belonging to another command.
The man had straggled, and was indulging rather freely in
Hostetter's Bitters in a ranch by the roadside, when the rearguard came up, and he wasordered by the officer in corn
x9 
FROM FORT McPHERSON
mand to go forward. Some hesitation and insubordination
occurred on the part of the soldier, when he was struck
with the side of the officer's sword.   He then rode forward,
borrowed a musket (as he was unarmed) "to shoot an antelope" as he represented, loaded it and fell back again. When
opposite our command he thought he recognized Lieutenant
Gill as the man who struck him, and going up to that
officer accused him of doing so, at the same time cocking
his musket, with the muzzle within three feet of the breast of
the officer, he pulled the trigger and exploded the cap; but fortunately did not discharge the piece. The man was immediately
arrested, and his musket examined, which was found to be
loaded, and the explosion of another cap sent the ball into
the ground. The scoundrel was put in irons to be tried by
a Court-Martial, at the next post, but managed to make his
escape the following night.
A march of one hundred miles Drought us to JuiesDurg,
a place destined to be of much importance as a trading post,
though at present it consists of not over a half dozen houses
of all kinds.  In 1864, the first settlement by this naine
was entirely destroyed by the Indians, and with it a considerable quantity of stores, including a large stock of grain
belonging to the overland stage company.   But the settlers
have not been discouraged, and are now rebuilding the city(?),
with apparently no apprehensions of a repetition of Indian
outrages.   Their houses are of a more substantial character, and are constructed at a greater expense than any others
on the plains. Most of them are built of lumber brought
from Denver, a distance of 200 miles, though there are
some of the Mexican adobe structure. This is a spanish
word, and on the plains is unusually pronounced as if spelled
dohy. The adobe brick consists of a mixture of clay and
sand, moulded in a way, and of a shape similar to our brick
in the East, but of a larger size, and are dried in the sun
only.  It answers well as a substitute for the ordinary
building brick when it is impracticable to obtain te latter.
A soft mud of the same material is used as mortar, and a
house so constructed with its walls smoothly plastered over
20 
TO FORT SEDGWICK.
makes both a neat and comfortable residence in a dry
climate.
Near Julesburg the great overland emigrant route
divides.  One branch of it crosses the river, and going by
way of Fort Laramie, through the South Pass of the Rocky
Mountains, continues on to the Pacific; while the other
follows the South Platte to Denver, and thence by a
northerly course enters Bridger's Pass, and unites again with
the former about 40 miles east of Fort Bridger.   The
Denver route is the one taken by the overland mail
coaches.
Where this division occurs, Fort Sedgwick is located.
This is considered as a post of even more importance than
Fort McPherson, and has been more recently established.
After the destruction of Julesburg by the Indians in'64,
the Government sent troops to this point for greater security
to emigration, as well as for the protection of the mail route.
These troops erected temporary quarters for the winter on
a site, not selected with a view to its permanency as a
military post.
But as Boston was built along its cow-paths for convenience, so these temporary quarters were added to and
enlarged, and finally the new garrison of Fort Sedgwick is
being built there. The officer who first camped on this
spot, probably had no more idea of its being the nucleus of
a large and important post, than had the early settlers along
the cow-paths of that locality becoming the " Hub of the
Universe." Fort Sedgwick is built upon a slightly elevated
piece of land, and will present a very pretty appearance,
after the completion of the quarters, and the removal of
several unsightly structures which can then be dispensed
with.  This is one of the most expensive military stations
on the plains. For example, the Government paid for all
the wood used there last winter, (and soldiers and officers
used their full allowance, for it is a cold and bleak situation),
one hundred and fourteen dollars a cord; and a necessity
occurred for the Commissary to buy potatoes on the spot,
for which he paid about $9 a bushel.
21 
22  FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH
Here we made our next halt for a few days, and enjoyed
much a short respite from daily marches. Contemplating
this halt, the soldiers had made preparation for quite a
novel exhibition in such a locality, and under such circum stances.  A number of good singers and mimics had been
practising for several days as Ethopian minstrels, and with
the permission of the commanding officer gave a grand
concert on the second night in camp. They were allowed
the use of two large hospital tents, and every facility
afforded them for making their entertainment as successful
as possible. Nearly all the officers in our command, as
well as those at the garrison with their families attended
the performance, which I was told (for I was not present)
was exceedingly creditab e, and conducted with more propriety than sometimes attend similar demonstrations in our
large cities. Such performances are now becoming quite
popular at many posts on the frontier.
Here we parted with the first detachment that left our
command.    Two  companies  left for  Fort  Wardwell,
which is located near Denver, one remained at Fort Sedgwick, and the remainder crossed the river for stations
further north and west.
The melting of snow in the mountains causes the streams
to be much swollen at this season, and apprehensions had
been felt by the Col. of the regiment that he would be
unable to ford the river with his command. Accordingly
he had taken the precaution, before leaving Kearney, to
order the construction of a large ferry-boat, which was completed when we arrived; but the ferry was yet an experiment, and proved to be as unsuccessful as was Robinson
Crusoe's first effort at navigation. The boat was launched,
however, without difficulty; but when it got into the
water it proved to be entirely too large to be managed in
the swift current, and too heavy to float in the shallow
water on the bars in the stream. The ferry, therefore,
was a failure, and was abandoned.
There we were, with a wide and rapid stream in front of
us-formidable looking, and too deep, it was supposed, to 
TO FORT McPHERSON.
be forded. Various conjectures were made, as to what
should be done, when Major Norris of the 2d Cavalry
came up with two companies of his regiment to cross the
river also, he being en route for Fort Laramie. The
Major has been marching over the plains, and crossing
streams for about half his life, and is not to be discouraged
by trifles. He was familiar with the Platte, and as soon
as he came up said it was fordable. Col. Carrington
disagreed with the Major, but as he was not under the
Col's command, he insisted on attempting to cro3s his
train.  Giving "Pigeon" (his favorite horse) to his First
Sergeant, the Major directed him to go into the river and
find the bet fording place, which was done immediately,
when the wagons followed, and then the men. Profiting
by the example, the next day the Infantry and their train
crossed also without accident or the loss of a dollar's
worth of property, public or private.  The rapil stream
proved to be only a bug-bear; and the Major by his bold
example, saved us an additional march of 200 miles, by
way of Denver, which was seriously talked about when
he arrived.
It was cold weather for fording streams.   Early the following morningthe thermometer indicated 33~, and two
days thereafter I had equally reliable evidence of a still lower
temperature.   Upon rising on the 6th of June I found ice
an eighth of an inch thick on the water in a bowl in my tent
awaiting my morning ablution. Our marches still commenced at an early hour, and about this time I often found
it neces3ary for comfort to abandon my horse and walk
briskly for an hour or two with my overcoat on. And this
occurred in a latitude less than a degree North of that
of St. Louis, and at no great elevation. I often thought
when shivering with cold, of my sensations in New Orleans at the same season and at the same hour of the
morning when the sea breeze had not sprung up to make
the heat tolerable, and I concluded that I would rather shiv.er in the pure, dry, cold, invigorating atmosphere of the
Northwest, than sweat and swelter in the hot, humid ener
23 
24   ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
vating climate of the beautiful Crescent City in the month
of June.
Safely across the river the entire command commenced
its westward march along Lodge Pole Creek, and two days
thereafter more than half the column destined to Fort Laramie and posts North of it separated.
The night before this occurred all the officers, who were
to continue the westward route, collected at the quarters of
Col. Carrington to take leave of him and his estimable
lady.  Sad memories are connected with that little assemblage.  Capt. Brown, who was then quartermaster of one
of the batallions was the most jovial, and best contented man
as to his destination in the company.   He  cracked jokes
about being scalped, and seemed to fear such a fate less than
any one present; but alas! he was first to fall by the hands
of the Indian he so little feared.   He was one of the victims
of the horrid massacre near Fort Phil Kearny last December.
Our company of ladies was reduced proportionately with
the command. Three left us at Sedgwick, three more on
the occasion just alluded to, and three continued on towards
the City of the Saints.
CHAPTER IV.
ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
LODGE Pole Creek is a stream rising in the" Black Hills"
and running in an easterly direction to the South Platte, into
which it empties, in the vicinity of Julesburg.  Near its
source is an extensive growth of straight, slender trees, which
are used by the Indians in the construction of the lodges;
hence the name of the creek.
An Indian Lodge consists of a conical frame-work of 
ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
small poles tied together at the apex, over which is placed a
covering of tanned skins, sewed together in a shape and of
a size to make a smooth surface. A lodge so constructed
has the appearance of Sibley tents, with the ends of the
poles projecting from the top. The tent I refer to is constructed upon a precisely similar principle, but with a centre
pole as a substitute for those used in the lodges.  The Indian builds his fire in the centre of his lodge, and the smoke
escapes through the top,while the tents have the improvement
of a stove, generally, though I have seen fires built in them
as in Indian lodges.
To the Aborigines, then, we are indebted for the principle upon which one of our most extensively used tents is
made.
The course of Lodge Pole Creek is through a valley,,the
sides of which gently ascend to the level of the extended
prairie, both Northi and South. The valley abounds in rich
nutritious grass, and has a soil, which at some period, will
doubtless yield abundantly of many of the staple agricultural
products of our country.   This  valley is the natural
route for the Pacific Railroad, after leaving South Platte
River; but whether or not local influence will prevail, and
take it over some other, time only will determine. The expense attending its construction here would be very trifling
compared with that of building it by the way of Denver, but
the influence of Colorado will probably take it to that city.*
Should it fail, then another Denver, more prosperous than
the present, will spring up as by magic at some point in this
valley.
Lodge Pole Creek possesses many peculiarities, and not
least among them is its entire disappearance, for miles, in
some places.   This strange phenomenon is not owing to a
*Since this was written the commissioners of the Pacific Railroad have deter-mined that the road shall be built along Lodge Pole Creee, and enter the Black
Hills at a pass about 2o miles south of Cheyenne Pass, down which the creek
flows.  As the road can be constructed  along this valley as rapidly as it has
been along the Platte the probability is that it will he completed throngh the
Black Hills by the spring or summer of I868.
25 
26   ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
at is accounted for in the character
the bed of the stream.  Where this
a, it is of a coarse sand extending
and as the water enters the sandy
s  surface, and  percolates through
the bed changes again, when the
urface as before.  Where it is hid a dry sandy place above it, and by
elow the surface the water can be
towards the visible stream below.
asionai disappearance of the creek
ng great variation in its size.  At
n a narrow, sluggish stream, and a
n passing over a bed of clay, it asa brisk current.   I said this occa the stream  was  a peculiarity of
I have been informed that such is a
rity of the streams west of the Rocky
Mvelty to me, and I have not visited
is common.   Along this creek,
illed "Pole Creek," I saw for the
f  constructed beaver dams.   In the
they are made of twigs placed verbedded in the bottom of the stream,
ranswisely, and against the sort of
a thick layer of earth is piled so as
t ance to the greatest pressure of watam may bring against it.  Above
their houses.   Some are built up
ream, in the middle of it, and rounded
oe the surface of the water; but here
illy, by burrowing into the banks
n the main land, instead of forming
ce to both classes are under water.
Tly shy, and while I have seen hunes, and hundreds more of their skins
ssed by the Indians, I have not yet
seen one of the animals. 
ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
The antelope, which appeared only occasionally along the
Platte, were here to be seen in great numbers, bounding
over the hills as the column marched along. They were
very timid, however, and to hunt them successfully, required a greater degree of labor and patience than I was disposed to bestow upon the sport. The more experienced hunters among the soldiers, however, secured a large number of
them in this valley and on the hills bordering it. We found
a roast of tender antelope meat not an undesireable substitute for beef occasionally, and I relished very much this, to
me, new diet.
The antelope is a neat, gracefully formed animal, resembling much the deer, with perhaps shorter legs. It is about
the size of a deer, with short branched horns; is of a light
brown or yellowish brown color on the back, white under
the belly and has short, white, rather bushy tails.  I alluded to them as bounding over the hills, I might almost with
propriety called it gliding. They have not a long and high
bound like the deer, but leap close to the ground, and at a
distance appear to glide along with but little exertion; their
motions are so regular and gentle. that a very imperfect
idea of their fleetness is formed when not compared with
the speed of other animals.
They are animals of remarkable curiosity, and this is
taken advantage of in hunting them.   A  small red flag
will decoy them to a spot where the hunter lies ready to
shoot, and secure his game. A passing wagon will attract
their attention; and even when hotly pursued, they will yield
to the promptings of their curiosity, and stop occasionally,
turn around, raise their heads and very deliberately gaze at
their pursuer for a moment, and then dash off again.
They get demoralized, as the soldiers say, sometimes, and
run right into danger. On one occasion I saw an antelope
run by the entire column within fifty yards, and at least
twenty-five shots were fired at him without effect. They
are exceedingly difficult to shoot when in motion.
I well remember my first exciting race after one of them.
I thought I had a chance to head him off so as to get
27 
28   ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
within pistol range; so away I dashed, my horse participa  ting in the excitement, and running with a swiftness that
astonishe i me; but I soon saw how useless it was, for the
antelope was travelling at the rate of two miles to my one.
They are killed in large number by the Indians, and their
meat dried for food, while  their skins are tanned and
dressed, and traded like the deer (buck) skin, but are not con sidered so valuable.   Quite a number of young antelopes
were caught by the soldiers, and taken along by the ladies
as pets; but they all died or were abandoned because of
the difficulty in carrying them, and the scarcity of milk
upon which they require to be fed. The antelope zoolog ically considered, ranges between a goat and a deer. They
are much more gracefully formed than the former, and
while they are quite as pretty as the latter, they are fleeter
animals.
Along Lodge Pole Creek, as elsewhere on the plains,
the little prairie dog abounds. This animal has really no
resemblance to a dog, but laving a sharp bark like one is
called so in consequence.   Its shape is more like a squirrel,
and it belongs to that family.  It has not the long tail,
however, and their average size is about twice that of the
little animal it resembles. They are by no means solitary
in their habits, but hundreds of them are found together in
their' towns."   They bore into the ground, and throw
the loose earth into little round piles beside the holes.  A
large number of these holes, near together, constitute a
prairie-dog town or village, as it is called. Some of them
are spread out over many acres of ground. They have
the reputation of  selecting  strange bed-fellows, and  it
it is said an owl, a snake, and a prairie-dog will occupy the
same hole.  I cannot vouch for the truthfulness of this
from personal observation.
On one occasion I came nearly shooting myself, and did
.shoot my horse, while attempting to fire at an impudent
little fellow who sat on the pile of dirt by his hole, not five
rods away, barking as the soldiers marched by.   Not being
able to make my horse stand until I could get a good aim, 
ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
I started to dismount, determined to have a shot, and when
in the act of doing so, the pistol was accidentally discharged,
the ball taking effect in the neck of the horse, and he staggered for a while as if fatally wounded.   My own head
was so near the pistol at the time, that for a moment or two
I could not realize whether I was shot and reeling, or the
horse under me.
The rattlesnake was also found along this as well as
other parts of the, route.  As they lay sunning themselves
in the road, the men several times came near treading upon
them; but when he made known his presence by sounding
his rattle' he was given a pretty wide berth until despatched.
This was always attended to as faithfully as if the soldier
regarded it as a sacred duty. One man would mash his
head with the butt of his gun, and another would immediately grab the rattles from his tail.  This was my first experience with his snakeship, and I haven't the slightest affinity for him. The noise made by a species of grasshopper is so similar, that I have more than once been startled
by it, thinking it was a snake.
This part of our journey was lonesome enough, though
the route is much more direct to Utah and beyond; the
emigrants avoid it because of the danger of being attacked
by Indians; the mail coaches pass south of it by way of
Denver; and not even our old companions, the telegraph
posts are to be found here-they go north to Laramie.
From the Platte to a point near the Big Laramie River,
where we again struck the stage line, a solitary train was
all we saw to break the monotony of our daily marches;
and, save the drivers of this train, not a human face was
seen, except those of our own command, in a journey of
ten days and nearly 200 miles. The train belonged to the
sutler at Fort Bridger, and was on the way to the river to
bring out goods. Two of the ladies were to stop at the
post it was from, and many were the inquiries made concerning the quarters at the post, and various other matters
that they considered would be conducive to their comfort
there. We passed the remains of a train burnt by the Indians
29 
30   ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.
last fall, and the graves of several who had fallen by the
same hands at different periods.
Along this route, and indeed throughout the valleys and
flat lands extending from the main Platte to the Pacific
coast, there are deposits of an alkaline substance (a salt of
soda) to be found on the surface of the ground.   I learn,
from reliable authority, that in places on the northern route
it is found to the depth of a foot; but where we travelled
it formed only a small coating over the ground where it had
been dissolved by the rain, and deposited again upon  the
surface in a white powder, after the evaporation of the
water.
On the 7th of June we encountered one of those terrific
hail storms, so common  on the plains.   Early in the
evening a cloud was observed just above the western horizon.  It attracted but little attention at first, as the wind
was blowing directly towards it, and we supposed the storm
would not reach us, but an upper current caused the cloud
to approach rapidly. The eastern wind soon changed to
one from the opposite direction, and between eight and nine
o'clock it blew with the violence of a tornado, and with it
came a few drops of rain.   Immediately afterwards the
hail commenced; at first only a few pieces of moderate
size mixed with the rain, but in a short time the whole of
the cloud seemed to have congealed, and fell in fragments
as large as black walnuts, and with a velocity and force
that was terrific, and in a few minutes almost covered the
ground. The night was intensely dark, and during the
frightful storm the flashes of lightning followed each other
in quick succession, and with painful brilliancy; and the
roar of the thunder together with the noise of the hail
stones striking the tent-poles, sounded like artillery in battle
amidst the rattle of musketry.
I felt confident that our new stout canvass tents would be
perforated, and that the mules would break from their fastenings and stampede; and feared serious personal injury to
any who might be exposed; but much to my surprise and
gratification, I learned, when it was over, that no accident
1. 
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
whatever had occurred.   So thick was the hail that large
quantities of it lay on the ground until sunrise the next
morning.
CHAPTER V.
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
As we marched westward along Lodge Pole Creek the
Black Hills in which the stream rises came in view; but at
the same time appeared a grander sight, the snow-clad summits of the Medicine Bow Mountains looming up conspicuously away to the southwest. They were the first mountains covered with perennial snow that I had seen, and
after gazing at them fbr a long time I began to doubt their
reality, thinking it possible in this country of strange freaks
of nature a white cloud hanging about the horizon might
assume the appearance of the object before me.   But another day's march, and a clearer atmosphere, made the outlines of Long's Peak, which has an elevation of I4,000
feet above the sea, as well as the summit of the adjacent
range so distinct that no question could then arise as to
their true character.  All doubts being settled as to what
we saw, the officers then commenced estimating the distance that separated the mountains from us, and their estimates varied from 30 to 6o miles; but a two days' journey
somewhat in their direction when they were still apparently
as far away as when first observed, as well as a reference to
my map, told me to conclude that the highest estimate
should have been increased at least one half to get the
real distance.
On  most of the popular maps, this spur of the Rocky
Mountains is styled the Meridian Ridge, or the Meridian
Bow Ridge, but on the topographical charts of the army,
it is put down as I have written it, and is so called by the
I
31 
32    THROUGH THE BLI,ACK HILLS.
mountaineers who are familiar with the country'. Why it is
designated Medicine Bow I have not learned.
The flowers of the Prairie were here quite different in
variety from those before observed, but not the less beautiful.  The cactus which is found almost everywhere on the
plains and mountains, assumes a different form with the
changes in the character of the soil in which it grows.  Instead of the flat oblong leaf with which we had previously
met the oval shaped prickly-pear was to be found abundant
here; and at this season their crimson and yellow blossoms
were just opening in all their freshness and beauty.  For
richness of color I think they were unsurpassed by any
flowers that I had ever seen.  How enjoyable to a class in
botany would be a summer's trip over the plains of Nebraska and Colorado!
Reaching the Black Hills-probably so called from the
black appearance the growth of cedar on them presents, we
encamped for the night in the mouth of a beautiful canon,
the former site of a military post known as Fort Walbach.
Canon pronounced kanyon, is a Spanish word, meaning a
valley or a pass in the mountains, and is universally used
throughout the far West.   I think I never heard a frontiersman use the word valley. I remember an anecdote
told of the old mountaineer, James Bridger; how he made
rather an odd use of his frontier nomenclature.   He is said
to have visited St. Louis, and stopped at the Planters'
House. After registering his name he looked out, and observed a crowd of people passing down Third Street as is
usual during business hours, and turning to the clerk inquired,
"what in      was going on down the Canon to attract so
many people."
Our camping ground at Fort Walbach was a very picturesque one and appeared the more beautiful after marching
through a country of so much sameness of scenery, and of
so different a character.  On either side of us were the
smooth but somewhat abrupt slopes of immense hills, and
the valley between, thickly covered with tall grass, was
watered by a clear mountain stream running through it,
to 
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
and from the side of the hill gushed out a large spring of
delicious water of a temperature requiring no ice to cool
it.
The next morning we commenced the hilly part of our
journey, and these hills, like the whole mountainous region
beyond, possess much interest to the geologist. We
crossed the range in one day's march, the entire road being
of ascents and descents until we passed over into Laramie
Plain on the West. In one of the depressions where the
road was bad, and the column was halted to assist in getting
the wagons along, I found the trees covered with the names
of travellers who had probably stopped for a similar purpose. A foolish way of seeking fame, if to such the parties
who inscribed their names there aspired! Along the eastern
slope of the highest of these hills, and by the way I can't
understand why they are not called a mountain range. The
definition o' hills and mountains as given in the geographies
of my school-boy days left the scholar to make a very
capricious distinction between them, and what I might,
upon their authority, after a journey over the plains, call a
mountain, an old hunter fresh from Long's Peak or Fremont's
might upon the same authority call a hill. But I was
about to write, when I digressed, that upon these eminences,
banks of snow were still remaining when we crossed in the
middle of June.   Making snow-balls at that season was
rather a novel employment for me.
When we reached the summit of the most westerly of
the range, there opened out before us the grandest landscape
view of my life. Without any knowledge of that topography of the country I was approaching, I rode leisurely
ahead of the column, and upon ascending to the brow of a
hill, as suddenly as a panoramic painting is brought to the
view after the withdrawal of the curtain, so suddenly appeared this natural panorama, more sublime than was ever depicted upon canvass.   My  pen is inadequate to a just
description of its grandeur and beauty, and I can convey to
the reader but a faint idea of the scene that then lay before
me. I doubt if the editor of the ADVOCATE when he
3
33 
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
crossed the renowned Alps a few years ago witnessed a sight
more grand and magnificent.  Far away to the South and
Southeast were the snow-clad mountains that attracted our
attention for days before reaching the Black Hills. Their
tallest peaks only were visible to us then, but now I beheld
the whole majestic range with summits as white with snow
as in January, and shining under the rays of a noon-day sun
in the month of June. The Black Hills upon which I
stood extended from a point not far removed from the moun tains to which I have just referred, in a northerly, and then
changing their course to a westerly direction, making with
the mountains a somewhat irregular triangular shape. Long
distances separated the two ranges, it is true, but these
spaces were not to be seen from where I stood, and the
mountains appear to completely surround a basin which
is the wide extended  Laramie Plain.   From  my standpoint the ground below appeared to be as level as an
Illinois prairie, and for many miles could be seen the
road over which we were to travel, looking like a narrow
Indian trail through the green prairie grass. The Big Laramie River rising in the Medicine Bow Mountains was
ever winding through the plain in its course towards the
North Platte; and far beyond the Black Hills to the northeast loomed up the solitary but lofty Laramie Peak. Look
which way I might, the grandest prospect met my gaze;
but that part of the scene which most absorbed my attention was the elevated glistening summits of the snowy mountains to the south.   What a sight for a landscape painter!
The view had its inspiring effect upon the soldiers as well
as upon myself. Marching in the hot sun up a long hill
had caused a perfect silence in the ranks, which may always
be noticed when the men are fatigued, but as they reached
the brow of the hill, and beheld what I have endeavored to
describe they seemed to be invigorated with new life, and
the loud hum of conversation extended along the whole
column. It was not a scene to inspire enthusiasm, but profound and subdued wonder and admiration.
Not until I started to descend did I realize the elevation
34 
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
from which I had this extended view. The road to the
base of the hill (but I must now call it a mountain) looked
to be about a mile long, but an hour's ride did not take me
beyond the slope. When upon this plain I could not recognize it as the one I had seen from the eminence, for
instead of its proving to be level, as it appeared, I found an
undulating surface like the rolling prairies of Kansas on a
smaller scale.
Reaching the river where we were.to encamp, after a
long and weary ride I lay upon the grass still reviewing' the
mountain scenery and watching the little silvery clouds assume fantastic shapes upon the clear blue sky, and wondering, admiring and worshipping I fell asleep upon my grassy
couch.
Immediately after going into camp, we were visited by a
small war party of the Sioux Indians, who were anything
but belligerently inclined when they saw the number of men
we had. A war party may be known by the absence of
squaws, and of lodges, and by all the men being mounted.
True to the Indian character, our visitors became beggars,
but did not succeed in getting any rations or anything else,
and soon left rather disgusted with their reception. Fearing that they would be still further true to the Indian character, an extra guard was placed over the mules that night;
but they made no attempt to steal, and probably left the
vicinity at once.
The next morning the soldiers indulged in an early cold
bath in fording the Big Laramie which was high from' the
melting snow in the mountains, and the water waist deep;
but the men had become accustomed to such performances
and waded in as cheerfully as if taking a morning bath at
Cape May in the month of August. But to me the sight
of others in such cold water on such a cold morning was
almost a shock to my nervous system!
Our wagon-master, who had been over this country
several times before, had raised my expectations in regard
to hunting. When travelling along the Platte River and
Lodge Pole Creek, looking in vain for a bird to shdot, he
35 
THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS.
would tell me to be patient until we reached the Black Hills
and Laramie Plain, where sage hares and jackass rabbits
he represented would be almost innumerable. But all my
anticipations were  doomed  to disappointment, as not a
rabbit or a grouse was seen.  It may have been the country
for them, but it certainly was not the season in that
country. Here the sage brush upon which the birds feed
began to appear, and afterwards we passed over almost
interminable fields of it.
In the Medicine Bow Mountains, in this vicinity, Elk
were reported as very numerous, and I presume they must
have been, from the fact that elk meat was sold in this
country of exorbitant prices at a few cents per pound, and
less than the government paid for beef at the next post.
There on our journey for the first time, I indulged in a
coast of elk meat for my dinner. It had been hanging in the
dry, rarified air of that elevated region, until it was near
that condition when  it could hang no  longer, and had
become as tender as a spring chicken and as delicious too.
I do not pretend to be a connoisseur of meats, but I can't
understand in what condition the gustatory organs of
writers could have been, when they refer to elk meat as
coarse, dry and unpalatable. My cook was not specially
skilful in his art, nor had I been deprived of fresh meat, so
t- cannot attribute my relish of the roast of elk to the way
it was served, or to a craving appetite, but the merit must
,have been in the meat itself. I-was the more convinced of
that after eating a broiled tenderloin steak of it for breakfast
the next morning.
We learned that there had been a fall of snow where we
encamped only a day or two before, but at noon-day the
weather was then quite warm, though a couple of pairs of
blankets were not undesirable articles on our beds at
night.
Cool nights are characteristic of the plains, whether contiguous to the mountains as we then were or not. The
season for musquitoes in that locality had not arrived, and
our sleep was undisturbed and refreshing.
36 
FROM FORT HALLECK, &C.
We passed several additional graves of soldiers and
citizens murdered by the Indians the year before, and on
the head-board of one I read, "Burned by the Indians," etc,
Subsequently I learned the particulars of the death of the
unfortunate man  buried there.   He was one of a small
party of soldiers guarding a train which was attacked by
the savages, and all his companions escaped, but he was
captured. The inhuman wretches then tied him to the
wheel of a wagon, loaded with combustible material, and
set fire to it, burning the unfortunate soldier to a crisp.
Horrible! but literally true!
Winding around the base of the mountain, in a westerly
direction, in two or three days we reached the next military
post-Fort Halleck.
CHAPTER VI.
FROM FORT HALLECK TO THE NORTH PLATTE.
FORT HALLECK, another of the frontier posts established
since the late war began, was a rudely built and unattractive
station, situated at the base of the western part of the
Medicine Bow range of mountains, or what is more commonly  called the  Elk Mountain.   In  this locality the
most violent winter winds prevail, rendering it exceedingly bleak and uncomfortable for many months in the year.
Fort Halleck has an elevation of nearly 8,ooo feet above
the sea, and on the 4th of July of last year was visited by a
severe snow-storm. Since we passed there in the middle
of June, the post has been discontinued, and the garrison
removed 60 miles east, to a point in Laramie Plains, near
where we crossed the Big Laramie River, to which I
referred in my last.
Soon after our arrival there, the work of demolishing the
37 
FROM FORT HALLECK
old station, and building the new, began. For the new
post, a new name was adopted, and at first it was known as
Fort John Buford, after one of the dead heroes of the late
war, but since, the name has been changed again to Fort
Sanders. The post was built under the personal supervision of Brevet Lieut.-Col. Mizner, of the I8th Infantry,
who was a compagnon du voyage from St. Louis on the
march I am now describing. Fort Sanders is probably the
best post on the frontier, constructed solely by soldiers'
labor, in the West.
The old site of Fort Halleck is in a section of country
far removed from settlements, and frequented only by
frontiersmen, Indians, bears, and the passing traveller, with
here and there a ranche, the keepers of which are generally
a rough, desperate-looking set of men, conforming with the
character of the country in which they reside.
A total disregard of civil law prevails here; indeed, there
are no civil officers to enforce law, and the bold perpetration of murder and other gross crimes has been of frequent
occurrence. In many instances they pass unnoticed, but
sometimes there are mock-trials and executions, by selfconstituted courts, more barbarous in their character, than
the bold assassinations for real and imaginary wrongs,
which the courts are intended to punish. I was informed
of one where a frontiersman was tried for murder, said to
have been committed in self-defence, and while a jury of
four men was hearing the evidence, a party were  at work
digging a grave and making a coffin for the prisoner, whose
case had evidently been prejudged, and  he was tried and
executed all within a few hours. Everybody goes armed.
A frontiersman would be more likely to forget or neglect
to put on his hat when going out in a snow-storm, than to
leave behind him his pistol on any occasion. They place a
very low value on human life, and to shoot a man dead
because of a slight controversy, is considered the most
expeditious and certain way of settling the misunderstanding.
A vigilance committee exists in the territory, but without
38 
TO THE NORTH PLATTE.
the organization and concert of action which characterized
the great California committee in the early part of the history of that State.
The conduct of some of the "vigilanters," as they are
called, has been so represented to me, that I would about as
lief meet in an unfrequented place, an old grizzly, or two
or three hostile Sioux, as one of these protectors (?) of the
peace of the territory.
Considering all things, I congratulated myself upon not
being ordered to a post in that country, preferring to take
the chances of a more congenial state of things at a more
distant station.
The prices charged for such articles as could be purchased
of the sutler at Halleck, or at the ranches in the vicinity,
were enormously high.  The canned fruits and vegetables
for which I paid $3 and $4 a dozen in Leavenworth,  $2 a
can was here the lowest price, and flour, for which an officer
would be charged 5 cents a pound by the Commissary, was
sold to the emigrant by the sutler in an adjoining building
at 6o cents, while shot for which I paid 15 cents a pound in
St. Louis, here commanded 75 cents; and this enormous
advance is charged, when the highest rate of freight from
the Missouri River is 12 cents per pound. I was glad to find
that my larder required no further replenishing than the
Commissary could supply.
At Fort Halleck our column was still further reduced by
turning over to that garrison two other companies, and
there we parted with another of our Surgeons, Dr. Avery,
leaving but one, of about a dozen that left Leavenworth, to
continue the journey.   But there was little need for doctors. It is astonishing how healthy men keep when on a
march. We did not leave a single sick man at any post
between Leavenworth and Salt Lake City.
A two days' march from Halleck brought us to the ferry
of the North Platte. As we descended into the valley the
roadside was literally covered with wild flowers, varied in
kind and color to an extent we had not before observed.
They were of varieties different from any cultivated flowers
39 
FROM FORT HALLECK
I have seen, and of an exquisite beauty of form and color
that would rival the rarest productions in the conservatories
of our eastern cities.
But from this scene of life and beauty we must take the
reader to one of a different character. Reaching the river
we found it swollen, its current of unusual swiftness, and a
strong wind blowing so as to render it hazardous to attempt
a crossing, and for a day or two we remained in camp,
awaiting more auspicious circumstances. The wind having
subsided the crossing commenced, and the entire supply
train got over without accident, and then began the ferrying
over of the wagons with company baggage.   Soon after
this commenced, through the carelessness of the ferryman,
who had been indulging freely in whiskey, the boat, with
wagon, mules, and a number of men on it, swamped, just
after leaving the shore, emptying everything into the rapid
current. It was a shocking sight to behold. The men,
mules and wagon were rushed by within a few yards of the
shore, and hundreds witnessed the scene, but were unable
to render any assistance to their drowning comrades, who
sunk beneath the surface, one after another, right before our
eyes, until five had drowned. A few escaped, including the
ferryman, but the mules, wagon and contents were all
lost.
I had crossed previous to the accident and witnessed on
the western bank an affecting scene. The wife and child
of a sergeant who was among the lost, saw the accident
from where I stood, but were not aware of the husband and
father being on the boat, until the report was made from
the other side that Serg't St. John was drowned. The
grief of the widow was then demonstrated in the most bitter weeping, while the little girl of about Io years became
almost frantic, uttered the most piteous shrieks, and had to
be forcibly restrained from rushing into the frightful stream.
I have but seldom witnessed a sight more affecting!  The
child continued in this highly agitated state until nearly exhausted, and then in the most deliberate manner clasped her
hands together, raised her eyes, and with beautiful emphasis,
40 
TO THE NORTH PLATTE.
exclaimed: "Good Lord, have mercy upon me, and help
me to bear this." The prayer seemed to bring its immediate answer, for the little one was quiet at once and appeared
reconciled, and afterward exhibited much fortitude.
No other boat was to be had, and the larger part of the
command had not crossed, and were separated from supplies
which were on the -western side. Nothing could be got
over, and wagons were sent back to Fort Halleck for subsistence for the men until the ferry could be reestablished.
The boat, which had landed on an island two miles below was, after great exertion by the entire command, recovered and brought back to the ferry, but not until another
life was lost in the attempt-the proprietor of a freight
train, who was assisting the soldiers in getting the boat from
the island to the mainland, was drowned within ten feet
of the bank of the stream. He was -a wealthy and highly respected citizen of Nebraska.
This ferry is the property of the Overland Mail Company,
of which Mr. Ben Holladay was then the principal stockholder. Indeed, he might be said to own the line between
the Missouri River and Salt Lake City, so complete was
his control of it.  I will take this occasion to refer again t(
this company, as I promised to do in a previous letter. -
A few years ago Mr. Holladay contracted with the PostOffice Department to run a daily mail from the Missouri
river to the Pacific.  For doing so, he was to receive from
the Government seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars a
year; and various military posts were established along the
route, both for the protection of the mails and the property of the contractor. Wherever there was danger of a
coach being attacked by Indians, a military escort accompanied it. The mail is carried in the boots of stage-coaches,
which are patronized by passengers at all seasons; and the
coaches also carry express packages, for which freight at
the rate of one dollar per pound is charged to Salt Lake
City. For a through trip to California, at the time Mr.
H. relinquished control of the line, a ticket cost about
four hundred andfifty dollars-meals extra, at the rate. of a
I*
41 
FROM FORT HALLECK
dollar to a dollar and a half each, and for all baggage in
excess of 25 lbs., a dollar and a half per pound is charged.
He has been reimbursed by the Government for animals lost
or stolen by the Indians, and since the contract for carrying
the mails was awarded to him, he has secured the passage
by Congress of a bill, requiring letter postage to be paid on
all printed matter sent in the overland mail, except on news papers mailed by the publishers to regular subscribers.
Fond mothers are thus deprived of the privilege of sending
occasionally a newspaper to a soldier son on the frontier,
and sweethearts in the States must content themselves by
writing to their soldier lovers the gist of the new novels,
as it is too expensive to forward them in Mr. Holladay's
mail.
How has the Government, which has sustained this monopoly, been treated in return for its liberality?
It is the custom of railroad companies, throughout the
States, to transport officers and soldiers of the army over
their lines, on orders of quartermasters, for which they collect a lower rate than is charged passengers generally. Mr.
Holladay refuses to recognize the orders of a quartermaster, because, when settling his last account, he was required
to make a deduction from the enormous rates charged.
No officer or soldier is allowed to travel in his coaches
without paying for a ticket at the established rate. The
result of this was great inconvenience to officers, and injury to the service. For instance, an officer may be ordered from Camp Douglas to Fort Leavenworth; he has
not $300 to meet his expenses, but he must go. The
quartermaster then furnishes him with an ambulance and
wagon, and the commanding officers of posts escort him
through the dangerous country, and after a two months'
journey he reaches his destination, the Government having
incurred greater expense than the stage-fare, besides losing
the officer's services for the two months he spent on the
way.
The mail company have made ferries, and built bridges
over streams crossed by their coaches. When government
42 
TO THE NORTH PLATTE.
teams pass over these ferries or bridges, the same rates of toll
or ferriage are charged as to emigrants-indeed higher rates if
the cash is not paid. At the North Platte a traveller might
cross a single wagon for five dollars, and if the Government
crossed a hundred, the ferryman would require a voucher
for seven dollars a wagon-that is, two dollars additional
for sending to Denver to collect. On the occasion of the
accident referred to, after the loss of six lives, and a large
amount of public property, through the carelessness of an
employe, and the labor of several hundred soldiers in recovering the lost boat, and re-establishing the ferry, an agent
of the company thought the Government should pay something, if not full ferriage.  Most decidedly cool!
The stages at both termini of the route are fine Concord
coaches; but these seldom get beyond the first home station, when inferior ones are substituted, and both stages
and stock continue depreciating as you go onward, and on
some parts of the route the passengers often, in bad
weather, are compelled to walk for miles, because of the
horses being unable to draw them. I have in several instances known passengers to be transferred from the inferior coaches, commonly known on the plains as  "mud
wagons," to a common army-wagon, without springs or
cover.
Mr. Colfax and party, when crossing the continent, were
furnished one of the best coaches, and that allowed to go
all the way through, hence Mr. Bowles' unqualified praise
of their conveyances.   If the party had travelled incog., and
been transferred into an uncovered army-wagon, it would
probably have interfered very materially with Mr. Holladay's
influence in the House of Representatives.
There are some of the facts connected with the stage
company as conducted a few months ago. Since that time
it has passed into the hands of the enterprising and popular
firm of Wells, Fargo & Co., who are now the proprietors
of the line through to the Pacific, having some time previously purchased the line from Salt Lake City west. One of
the first acts of the new company was to reduce the fare,
43 
FROM FORT HALLECK
and  I understand the line has already grown in popu larity. *
While awaiting the recovery of the boat, and the crossing
of the remainder of the command over the North Platte,
those of us on the western side were visited by a large band of
the Ute Indians, who had come down the road to trade skins
and furs before going on the war-path against the Arapa hoes with whom they are at enmity. Their squaws, old
men and pappooses had all been left behind, and the entire
band was mounted on ponies, and armed. Their ostensible
mission, as I said before,was a fight with the Arapahoes, but
I was much inclined to the belief that they were really on a
grand stealing expedition, and a little extra vigilance was
exercised in guarding our animals. They traded large num bers of beaver skins and dressed buckskins to the officers
and soldiers for old coats, blankets, &c., but seemed to place
no value on greenbacks. Hardly from a want of confidence
in the stability of the Government! I exhibited to one
who was above the average in point of intelligence a fifty
dollar bill, and at the same time a new ten cent note; the
latter he seemed to regard as the most desirable, but would
not accept either in trade for a beaver skin, which he afterward bartered away for an old cast-offwoolen shirt. Many
of them exhibited shrewdness in trading, and I think understood English better than they were willing to admit. They
were exceedingly anxious to trade for weapons and ammunition, but further than a few cartridges, which the soldiers
bartered away, they got nothing of the kind.
Throughout the journey it was a rule with officers not
to leave the column or camp without means ofdefence against
Indians; and indeed at nearly all times I had my pistol by
my side ready for an emergency.   One afternoon, however,
when lying in my tent, I removed the weapon and put it
*Since the above was written a gentleman informed me that he had seen a
copy of a letter addressed by the Postmaster General, to Mr. Holladay, calling his
attention to frequent neglects to comply with his contracts notwithstanding the
great liberality of the Government, and threatening to cancel the contract if
not more carefully regarded.
44 
TO THE NORTH PLATTE.
under my pillow, and being called to visit an emigrant camp
a short distance off, I rode out alone, and turning suddenly
around a hill, I came upon two of the most desperate and
villainous-looking warriors I had seen in the band. As they
started to accompany me, all riding abreast, I discovered that
I had left my pistol behind, and it being desirable, under
the circumstances, to appear as friendly as possible, with
the most complacent smile I could make I gave the usual salutation "How."   This was recognized by a sort of grunt,
like a dog, by the fellow next to me, with any other than a
pleasant expression of countenance, and his want of cordiality was not the less noticed because of a long lance which
he carried in his hand. I may have been in no danger, but
must confess to some degree of nervousness, and breathed
more freely when I came up with a few emigrants after a
very short and very unpleasant ride with my dusty companions.
The Utes, I understand, have not been hostile to emigrants generally, but are unfriendly toward the Mormons,
and have commttied depredations upon their trains and other
property, and charge the "saints" with deceitfulness and
treachery. A queer charge coming from an Indian!
During our stay upon the Platte they encamped on the
bluffs all around us; and notwithstanding their protestat ions
of friendship and the absence of all hostility on their part
for some years, I had so little confidence in the Indian character that I could have slept more soundly if a little further
removed from so large a number of armed warriors. Their
weapons consisted of a great variety, including rifles, shotguns, pistols, lances, and bows and arrows, but the latter
predominated.
After a delay of six days the command was crossed with out further accident, and we resumed our marches over a
mountainous country, reaching Bridger's Pass in two days.
This was an epoch of bur journey, for we had reached the
western slope of the Rocky Mountains.
45 
CHAPTER VII.
FROM BRIDGER'S PASS TO GREEN RIVER.
TRAVELLING along a deep valley, with tall mountains on
either side, we leave a small stream which runs eastward,
finally to empty into the Gulf of Mexico, and in a few
minutes come to another that flows into the great Pacific.
This valley is the celebrated Bridger's Pass in the Rocky
Mountains.
Though at an elevation of 8,ooo feet, quite a change in the
appearance of things was to be observed at once. The
grass was more luxuriant and the snow-capped mountains
had now disappeared, and those around us were covered
with verdure to their summits. All nature seemed to wear
a more genial aspect, and we travelled forward anticipating
still further evidences of a more temperate climate. The
weather grew warmer, and we were subjected to the annoyance of myriads of mosquitoes, which were vastly more
troublesome than they ever proved to be in New Orleans.
They not only bit the exposed skin, but through the thinner
clothing, and an ordinary glove afforded no protection to
the hands. The horses became victims as well as their
riders, and soon their bodies were covered with great lumps
from the irritation of the bite of these troublesome little insects.  In camp we resorted to thealmost suffocating smoke
from a smudge of sage-brush to drive them from our tents;
but fortunately the cool nights caused them to disappear
soon after sundown.
For days before the time of which I now write, as well
-ft 
FROM BRIDGER'S PASS, &c.
as for weeks afterward, we were almost constantly meeting the trains of emigrants returning from California. It
was surprising to witness this great tide of emigration from
the Land of Gold back to the Eastern States. Hundreds
of families, with all their wordly goods and their entire
households, were seeking again the homes of their earlier
years.
I have often heard of the Pacific coast as being most
prolific in its multiplication of the genus homo, but I never
fully realized the extent to which the " blessings" and " responsibilities" of the Californian might be increased until I
saw these trains. " A poor man for children," is an old
vulgar adage, but I would substitute for it, " A Californian
for children." We passed wagon after wagon with juvenile heads in front, juvenile heads behind, juvenile heads to
the right, and juvenile heads to the left-literally rows of
little faces, from two to a dozen years old, peeping out
from under the covers all around, and all dirty, healthy, and
happy.
I inquired the cause of this great exodus from a land into
which, only a few years ago, over the same road, the goldseeking travellers poured like pilgrims into Mecca, and
learned that California now is the gold-field only for Chinamen and capitalists.   Gold is still abundant in extensive
quartz ledges, but is fast disappearing from the beds of
streams, where a few years ago so much was obtained by
the miner with his pick, shovel, and wash-pan. Extensive
machinery is required in mining profitably the ledges to
which I refer, and these ledges are now monopolized by
capitalists with their immense quartz-crushing and hydraulic mining machines, and the yield of gold from them,
though as great perhaps as ever from quartz mining, is now
divided among the few instead of the masses, as formerly.
The primitive mode of mining has ceased to be profitable
to all save " John Chinaman," who toils hard in the almost
exhausted " diggings" for a very small quantity of gold;
and his frugality is such that he will save money where even
the prudent Yankee would starve. The latter, therefore,
47 
FROM BRIDGER'S PASS
are fast abandoning the country, either to search for the
precious metal in Idaho or Montana, where it abounds in
the beds of streams, as formerly in California, or to return
to their homes, as was the case with those we met. They
informed me that there were thousands of families who re mained in the State only because of a want of means to
enable them to leave it.
Disappointed miners were not confined to those of Cali fornia only, but the newer regions had theirs also. About
the time of which I have been writing, I met the very ex tensive effects of a defunct mining company returning from
the new gold region of Montana. It consisted of a train
of elaborately constructed wagons, on which the bright red
paint was yet comparatively fresh, and conspicuously lettered upon each was "Montana U.S. Gold Mining Co."
With them were a large engine and boilers, and the whole
was en route for Denver City, where the effects of the
company had been sold. I got the following bit of history
from the gentleman in charge of the train.
Some time ago some shrewd individuals from Montana
called upon capitalists in the East, and portrayed, in very
extravagant terms, the immense wealth of gold lands where
they represented that they had established claims; but for
want of means were unable to work the mines successfully
on their own account. They exhibited specimens of rich
gold quartz, with elaborate charts of the country in which
the gold lands were represented to be located.  Without a
survey of the country, or inspection of the mines, and entirely upon the representations of these men, a company,
with a capital of $200oo,ooo000, was immediately organized, and
the outfit to which I have referred was the result. After a
year's explorations and researches, not only did they fail to
produce the gold which they expected to pour like a stream
into their treasury, but were unable to find even the land they
had purchased.
This may strike the reader as an improbable story, but I
give it upon the authority of an intelligent gentleman who
was in charge of the property.
48 
TO GREEN RIVER.
I find that I have digressed widely, and much of the
space allowed for this week's letter I have filled in writing
about things, though not entirely irrelevant, certainly not
descriptive of my journey.
In passing through the Rocky Mountains, I observed at
various places thick strata of coal cropping out along the
declivities, and here and there I found small mines, worked
by the Overland Stage Company, for supplying a cheap fuel
for the stations in the vicinity. The coal obtained is of a
bituminous nature, and resembles much the celebrated
cannel coal of England.   In the same section of country,
exuding from the crevices in the rocks, was a dark, semiliquid substance, having the appearance and physical properties of petroleum, and I have no doubt was such in reality. This very much excited a brother officer, who might
be said to have " petroleum on the brain."  He indulged
in many visionary schemes of making great wealth from oilwells in the Rocky Mountains. When the great Pacific
Railroad shall have been completed to these mountains, the
materials for running the road will be conveniently at hand,
and at the same time the immense mineral resources of
this region will be developed. Had I the hidden wealth
contained in the mountains I had passed thus far on my
journey in an Eastern market, I think I might afford to
pay one-half of the national debt, and retire from the army
to a life of affluence.
After passing beyond the mountains, we came upon an
extensive barren plain abounding in wild-sage bushes, which
grew to a height of three or four feet. There were hundreds of thousands of acres of this land with no other vegetable growth upon it, and because of its peculiar production
it is known as the Artemesian Plain-Artemesia being the
botanical name of the sage which covers it everywhere.
So large were the bushes that it afforded a very convenient
firewood (all to be had), and was objectionable as such
only because of the unpleasant smell about the camp oc casioned by its combustion.
A few days' march over this country brought us to a trib
49 
FROM BRIDGER'S PASS
utary of Green River-a small disgusting stream, known as
Bitter Creek. This was the first bad water we had been
compelled to use since leaving the Big Muddy, south of Fort
Kearney. It was -a small sluggish stream, changing the
color of its water with that of the soil through which it flow ed, and in some places looked like a mucilage of red brick dust.  Its name is owing to an alkaline rather than bitter
taste, caused by the absorption of a substance of that na ture of which I have spoken as abounding in the soil of
most of this western country.  There were frequent re ports by emigrants of its fatal effects upon animals that drank
of it, but I failed to observe any unpleasant consequences
either to the animal man or of the brute creation, both of
which classes in our command and train drank of it freely,
on a march of several days.
Of all the country we marched over between Leaven worth and Salt Lake City, that along Bitter Creek was the
most barren and uninviting. On the prairies of Kansas,
along the valleys of the Platte, and Lodge Pole Creek, in
the Black Hills, on Laramie Plain, through Bridger's Pass,
everywhere else I saw something to admire; but along Bitter
Creek is an arid waste, without a redeeming feature. It
was disgusting to travel through the country at any time,
but seemed particularly so on Independence Day. Grass for
the animals was scarce, the water bad, the weather hot and
dry, the dust thick-in a word, everything conspired to disgust the traveller, and even some of our mules became demoralized, and strayed off in search of a more congenial
country.  When I pass along Bitter Creek again I hope it
will be at night in a sleeping-car.
One day, while passing along this part of our route, I observed a man at one of the stage stations preparing for a
hunting excursion, and upon inquiry I learned that he was
employed by the company to hunt game for them, and received for his services the value of the meat he brought in.
This hunter had been captain in a volunteer regiment, and
when mustered out of service decided to remain a year in the
country to indulge in the sport of hunting large game, such as
so 
TO GREEN RIVER
deer, elk and bear, and found this a way of combining profit
with amusement. On his excursions he would go alone,
taking two horses, one of which he rode and on the other
he packed his game to bring in, and was usually absent only
two davs in securing a load for his pack-animal. From this
employment he realized the handsome sum of about $300
a month. It is only an experienced hunter and a good shot,
however, who could make it so profitable. I regretted that
I could not leave the command for a hunt with him, but
that was impracticable, and I had to forego the pleasure of
shooting an elk or a bear until a more convenient season,
if such ever occurs, and it has not up to the date of this
writing.
We met on this part of our journey several droves of California horses, on their way to the States. These animals are
purchased on the Pacific coast, at a very low rate, and are
driven across the plains at a season when grass is good, and
their transfer to a more profitable market is thus attended with but slight expense.  If the Indians should run offa
herd or two it would require several trips to make good the
loss. The California horse is not so large or so hardy as
our eastern horses, which always command a very high price
west of the mountains. They are known there as the
American horse, in contradistinction from the California
horse, or the Indian horse, which is a native of the plains or
mountains.
As we marched along Bitter Creek, toward its mouth,
our route was over a much less elevated country than that
through which we had marched from*Fort Halleck westward through Bridger's Pass, and it being the second week
in July the weather had become oppressively hot during the
middle of the day.  But in what remarkable contrast with
the sensations of our skin was the sight we beheld when
looking both tothe north and to the south!  For several
days we had lost sight of snow-clad mountains, but again
they came iii,;ow, and more of them than we had seen at
one time b fcre.   Far away to the north were the Wind
River Mot ntains-,ay 6o or 70 miles distant-their sum -
51 
FROM GREEN RIVER
mits completely covered with snow, and their outlines as
distinct as similar eminences would appear in the atmosphere
of Louisiana at one-twelfth the distance. At the most remote part of the range towered up the lofty Fremont's Peak,
whose summit reaches an altitude of more than I3,000 feet
above that of New Orleans. To the south could be observed with equal distinctness the range ofthe Uintah Mountains,
likewise white with snow.
We are now supposed to have reached the mouth of Bitter Creek, about which I have said such bitter things in this
letter, and in my next we will resume our march from Green
River, westward.
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM GREEN RIVER TO FORT BRIDGER.
GREEN RIVER is a stream of considerable importance.
It rises in the Wind River Mountains, in the western part
of Idaho Territory, and flowing south and west through
Utah, becomes the Rio Colorado in Arizona, and empties
into the Gulf of California. Green River is not navigable,
or rather, it has never been navigated, and there is a very
great difference of opinion as to whether it can be or not.
The Colorado has been navigated, and is still, in the lower
part of its course.   I understand attempts are to be made
next summer to run steamers far up into Green River. Some
are of the opinion that this stream can be navigated as high
as the mouth of Bitter Creek; but those who are most
familiar with it think it entirely impracticable. I am very
well satisfied that it is impracticable after hearing the arguments, pro and con. During the greater part of the year
there are many places where the water is not over six or
eight inches deep, the stream being very wide, and in other
52 
TO FORT BRIDGER.
places it is narrow, and so filled with rocks and boulders that
a yawl-boat could hardly pass safely between them. In the
spring and early summer months there is unquestionably
water enough at such places to float a small steamer; but
at such times an equally formidable difficulty presents itself
in the swiftness of the current.*
Green River takes its name from the green foliage along
its banks, which in many parts of its course appear in remarkable contrast with the sterile land contiguous to them.
Like all the mountain streams we crossed it was much swollen by the melted snow, and through its somewhat. narrow
bed at the point where the road strikes it, its current was
exceedingly rapid. It was not fordable, and the ferry, during the early summer months, yields a handsome profit to
the Overland Stage Company, by whom it is owned.   As
usual, the ferriage was enormously high, and there is no
way of evading the extortion to which the passing trains are
subjected.
This, like all the other ferries over the rapid streams of the
West, is constructed and worked at a very slight expense to
the owners. A description of it may not be uninteresting
to the reader. There is stretched across the stream, a few
feet above the water, a stout rope cable, to which a rudely
constructed flat-boat, capable of carrying over a four-horse
wagon, is attached by ropes at either end, passing through
pulleys which slide along the cable. When the boat is
about to cross the rope, the forward end is drawn in so as
to make that end approach the cable, and the one at the
hinder part is slackened so that the side of the boat will be
brought obliquely against the current. The force of the
water then propels it forward, upon the same principle that
* Since the above was written, there has been published in the Denver and
Salt Lake papers, a letter written by Bvt. Lt.-Col. Mills, in command of Fort
Bridger, in which he states that he proposes to apply to the War Department
for authority to explore the river next summer. The Colonel thinks a small
steamer, with engines of more than ordinary power, can safely navigate the
stream to within a short distance of his post. The Colonel's letter to the contrary
notwithstanding, I am still of the opinion expressed above.
53 
FROM GREEN RIVER
the wind striking obliquely the sails of a vessel gives it an
onward motion, or the flat surface of the boy's kite elevates
it in the air.  When the boat has crossed, its position to the
current is simply reversed by tightening the rope at the opposite end and slackening it where it was tight, and what was
the stern becomes the bow, and it recrosses the stream by
the same propelling power. One or two men only are required to manage a loaded boat, and the rapidity of its motion through the water would astonish one who has never
witnessed the operation.
We crossed Green River without a repetition of the horrible accident that occurred on the North Platte a short
time before. Our thoughtful commanding officer took the
precaution to substitute a stouter rope, which was in the
train, for the somewhat frail-looking one which spanned the
river when we reached the ferry; but altogether the crossing was more carefully managed, and there was no indulgence in whiskey-drinking by the ferrymen when so many
lives were intrusted to their care. Similar carelessness, notwithstanding the precautions taken, would doubtless have
resulted in a similar catastrophe to the one on the Platte.
The next locality that attracted our attention was a small
trading settlement on " Ham's Fork," a stream emptying
into Green River.
A few white men, and a larger number of Indians and
half-breeds, all living in lodges, earn a livelihood at this
place by buying and selling cattle. When an ox becomes
foot-sore and exhausted on his long journey, the alternative with the owner lays between abandoning his
animal or selling him for what he can get, and under these
circumstances such traders purchase for a mere nominal
sum, and after a few weeks' rest the ox is sold again for a
high price. The amount of money made in this way on
the plains is by no means insignificant.  These men also
trade with the Indians, after they return from their yearly
hunts, for robes and skins, which they obtain at a mere
trifling cost, and then sell them on the spot for a higher
price than the same articles would command in St. Louis.
54 
TO FORT BRIDGER.
It has been the practice of thieving Indians, almost yearly,
to fall upon the cattle belonging to the traders at this post
and run them off. On the night of our encampment there
a rumor prevailed that a band of Indians was in the vicinity
on such a mission, and no little excitement occurred in consequence. Every animal belonging to the traders was driven
in from the grazing ground, and the Colonel furnished a
guard for the protection of the settlement; but the rumor
proved to be false, and the guard was withdrawn in the
morning, when we continued our march.
This is a great country for "Forks." We have a Ham's, a
Smith's, a Henry's, and we soon reached another-Black'sand then encamped. We were then in a more attractive,
and what might be made a fertile and productive country.
The banks of the stream were covered with wild roses, and
tall rich grass took the place of sage-brush, very much to
the gratification of the mules, for they had not had such
grazing since we left Lodge Pole Creek.
A remarkable natural curiosity in this vicinity is " Church
Butte," a tall mound of soft sandstone and clay, which
has been shaped by the winds and rains in this very muddy
country, so as to present the appearance of the ruins of a
vast gothic cathedral.   Its towers and porch and pillars
may be as distinctly traced as if the ruins of ancient masonry. Such winds as prevail here I might expect to blow
anything into, or out of shape; but I could hardly conceive
it possible that such a grand object could be formed as it
has been.  Far above its steeple-like summits, was once
the surface of this whole country around, but it has been
gradually levelled, by the hand of time and the elements,
and the butte, being a part more capable of resistance than
the earth around it, remains a beautiful natural monument.
The formation of the butte is of soft sandstone and its
shape changes from year to year; but those who saw it
many years ago say it is notless remarkable now than it was
when they first saw it.
Along the road in this vicinity are found some very beautiful specimens of the moss agate, a variety of translucent
55 
FROM GEEEN RIVER
quartz, with what appear as little sprigs of moss imbedded
in it. These little moss-like particles are deposits of oxide
of iron, which take place during the formation of the
stone. The best specimens are highly prized for jewelry.
Obtaining a very pretty fragment, I sent it to California to
be cut, and set in a ring. I was quite surprised at the difference made in the appearance of the stone by polishing.
As found, it was quite opaque; but when returned in the
ring, it was almost transparent.  I shall preserve this as a
memento of a trip across the Rocky Mountains.
One day's march from Church Butte, and we were at
Fort Bridger, which is the oldest military station passed on
the march, save Fort Kearney.   The site is that of a
former trading-post of an old mountaineer of the name the
Fort now bears. He has long been known to officers of
the army on the frontier as a guide and interpreter. The
present military post was established in I858, after the
arrival of Gen. Albert Sidney's Johnston's expedition against
the Mormons. It is situated 120 miles east of Salt Lake
City, and the immediate site of the Fort is a locality occupied by Brigham Young and his followers when seeking
their new Zion in Salt Lake Valley in I847. A tall stone
wall-a parallelogram in shape-built by the Mormons for
protection against the Indians, still stands just below the
parade ground.   Black's Fork, to which I have before
alluded as a tributary of Green River, rises in the Uintah
Mountains, and before reaching the Fort divides into five
branches, one of which passes directly through the post,
affording an abundant supply of clear, cool, and the most
delicious water, fresh from the mountain springs. About a
mile below the post these branches unite again and form
one stream, thence to the river where it empties. The fort
is located in an extensive basin, surrounded by a succession
of table-lands, rising one above the other, which are styled
"benches." These benches are so level, and their slope so
regular, that when observed from a short distance, they appear not unlike an embankment for a railroad over a low
flat country. The soil on the surface of this entire section of
56 
II 
( ____  ~>
I-        _______  ______      ill                              _______
FORT BRIDGER.  OFFICERS' QUARTERS.
MEEDEA — CHLtl 
TO FORT BRIDGER.
country is alluvium, and it bears other evidences of having
been once the bottom of an inland sea. From any of the
benches the Fort presents a neat and attractive appearance.
After passing through what appeared an almost intermin
able region of sage-brush and grease-wood, the beautiful
green of the small cotton-wood and willow trees, and the
more beautiful wild roses then in full bloom on the banks
of a little stream which runs by the side of the road leading to the Fort, made the spot appear a very desirable one
for an officer's station, were it not for its isolated position.
This post was built by an officer no where better known
or more highly appreciated for his sterling qualities than in
New Orleans.  I refer to Gen. Canby.   The quarters are
constructed of hewn logs, and those of the officers neatly
plastered and provided with such conveniences as to afford
a comfortable home to those who have to occupy them.
In the vicinity game is abundant. The sage.-hen-the
largest known bird of the grouse family-are said to be
more numerous here than in any part of the West. I have
seen some almost the size of an ordinary wild turkey. Not
many miles distant deer and elk are to be found, while the
streams are full of the most beautiful brook trout, weighing
from half a pound to a pound and a half. To an officer
fond of hunting or fishing, the sport here afforded must in
a great measure recompense for the wafit of society and
little inconveniences incident to life at such a remote station; and, indeed, taking all things in consideration, I felt like
congratulating those who were to remain, for I considered
it preferable to any post we passed on the route.
Along our journey I made frequent inquiries of those I
met concerning the military stations as we approached them
and whenever I conversed with an individual who could
give me any information about Fort Bridger, I was almost
certain to hear during the conversation some such remark
as the following: "And  you will find Judge Carter, the
sutler, there, and a finer gentleman you never met." We
met the Judge and he proved to be all that had been represented. Judge Carter is Probate Judge of the County,
4
57 
FROM GREEN RIVER
and came to this country with the army of Gen. Johnston,
and has been the sutler at Fort Bridger since its establishment. For thirty years he has been with the army, and I
found him a perfect encyclopedia of information concerning it. Mention the name of an officer of the old army and
he will give you his whole history. We found him a hightoned, intelligent, and hospitable Virginia gentleman, universally popular with all who associated with him, and deservedly so.   His store contains a larger assortment of
every variety of goods and wares than any similar establish -
ment west of the Missouri River. I was informed by good
authority, that his purchases in the East last year amounted
to $i8o,ooo. This large trade is by no means confined to
those at the post, but is principally with miners and emigrants.   His success in business has doubtless surpassed
his most sanguine expectations.
I have seldom met with a more hospitable gentleman than
Judge Carter, and there is always a plate at his table for
a visitor at the post or a passing friend, the pleasure of
entertaining a guest is the only remuneration he will receive
for his liberality, be the entertained friend or stranger.
Living on the reservation is another character, almost as
generally known as the Judge. I refer to an old trader and
mountaineer named Robinson, but passing always under the
sobriquet of " Uncle Jack." He has been living on the
frontier for nearly forty years, and has adopted many of the
habits of the aborigines, several of whom he has as wives.
During the summer months his abode is an Indian lodge,
and in the winter he is ensconced in a log cabin, a few miles
from the fort. Uncle Jack, though for so many years
without the bounds of civilization, has acquired none of that
rudeness of manner, which it would seem must always necessarily follow his associations and mode of life. He is always polite, kind in his feelings, and very entertaining in his
conversation, having an exhaustless fund of incidents in the
life of a mountaineer.   He is generous, also, to a fault, and
has accommodated persons with cattle and money amounting to many thousands of dollars) of which he will never
58 
TO FORT BRIDGER.
receive a dime. There are always about his premises, from
six to a dozen persons, not connected with his family (a few
Indians always included), who live at his expense. Persons
who know him intimately say he never complains of
such imposition, and when advised by friends to send'
away such loafers, he always has some ready excuse
for their idleness, and expresses the hope that they will soon
be able to earn something wherewith to pay for their board.
There are scores and hundreds of just such worthless indolent people scattered throughout the Far West. Some of
the men have their families with them, and those who have
not usually take squaws, and they eat and sleep away a miserable existence, apparently without any object in life.
As may have been inferred from what I have said already,
Uncle Jack is a natural gentleman-one of those noble characters who have the instincts and feelings of gentlemen,
place themn where you may. His associations and habits may
degrade him, but you will always find cropping out those
qualities which indicate him as intended for a different
sphere in life, and mark what he would have been under
different circumstances.
Uncle Jack is now sixty-five years old, but is hale and
hearty, though of course not so active as in early life.  He
has an iron constitution, and has passed through enough to
break even that, I should think. He is exceedingly fond of
his toddy, or the toddy minus the water and sugar. A gentleman told me that eight years ago he saw him take ten
drinks of whiskey before breakfast, apparently without feeling the effects of them. But now it requires comparatively
little to produce intoxication.   He says it is ridiculous to
talk about bad whiskey-that there is no such thing; some
whiskey he pronounces better than others, but says he never
saw any bad whiskey.   If the reader could taste, or smell,
some of the stuff distilled in this country, and known as
"Valley Tan," he would rather doubt Uncle Jack's qualifications as a "taster" for a liquor-store.  He advises Judge
Carter to bring out a distillery next year-thinks there is a
great waste of the raw material in making corn and wheat
59 
60   MORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER
into bread, as it would go much further if converted into a
liquid. I said to him one day,
"Uncle Jack, is the water in Smith's Fork (where he lives)
as good as we have it here in Black's?"
"Indeed, sir, I can't tell you. I don't drink water. I never
tasted it. You see, sir, I am getting old, and it might freeze
up in me."
But such remarks as these are made only to amuse a convivial party. He would never indulge in such to a stranger,
or to any one, unless encouraged to do so.
He has made a good deal of money trading with Indians
and emigrants, and years ago at trapping, but has lost a good
deal, also. His means, however, are sufficient to support
him comfortably for the balance of his life; and while he
owns a farm in Missouri, he is so well pleased with his
present way of living, that he prefers to end his days on the
frontier, notwithstanding the urgent appeal of relatives in
the States to spend his declining years where he can have
more of the comforts of life.
CHAPTER IX
MORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER, AND A RIDE IN A SNOW
STORM.
THE Government reservation upon which Fort Bridger
is located (there are always reserves about military posts),
is twenty-five miles square, and embraces some of the richest and most desirably-located lands for agricultural purposes
that I have seen on the western slope of the Rocky Mountains. Some parts of it are now cultivated by the sutler,
who has permission to do so from the War Department,
and his crops demonstrate clearly the productiveness of
the soil. The great drawback to this, as an agricultural 
AND A RIDE IN A SNOW-STORM.
country, is the shortness of the seasons, and the very uncertain weather of the spring and early autumn.   Garden
vegetables cannot be cultivated with much hope of uniform
success. Some seasons, as the last, for instance, are so favorable, that almost any vegetable raised in Ohio might be
raised here; but the probability is that for several succeeding years the late and early frosts would destroy all that
might be planted. The sutler now confines his crops to
oats and hay; and even his oat crop was a failure in'65,
though the yield is so large, that if a ready sale could be
made at the present rates, the failure of an entire crop
every fourth year would still make it profitable farming.
The Bridger reservation has other resources than agricultural. Three miles from the Fort may be quarried, in
any quantity desired, a silicious limestone well adapted for
building purposes. As found, it is in regular layers of uniform thickness, and the great blocks or slabs, as taken from
the quarry, look as if they had been wrought into shape by
the chisel and mallet of the mason. When first removed,
the stone is soft, and very easily dressed, but on exposure
to the weather for a short time, becomes very hard. There
are already several buildings at this post partially constructed
of this stone; and Major Grimes, the Post Quartermaster
at Camp Douglas, who is also Supervising Quartermaster
at this post, has submitted to the Quartermaster-General,
plans and specifications for a very elaborate garrison to be
built of it.
Iron ore is found in the vicinity, and perhaps abounds on
the reservation; and coal likewise. About twenty miles
distant is a large flowing spring of petroleum, with indications of its existence in unlimited quantities in the country
around. Within two miles of the post are large beds of
gypsum, which might be easily calcined and converted into
plaster of Paris on the spot; and about twelve miles to the
south is a forest of heavy timber. Almost the entire reservation might be irrigated from the two streams that run
through it, while these streams could also be turned to
account, by furnishing water-power for mills.
6I 
62   MORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER
The reader will inquire why a country with so many resources is not settled.  The reason is, because the most
desirable of it is not open for settlement, but included in
the large reservation.   Various  inspecting officers have
already recommended that this reservation be cut down.
If it should be done, and the land thrown open for pre-emption, and a colony of industrious Germans, or any other
thrifty people locate here, a few years would make a great
change in the present desolate country. The passage of the
Pacific Railroad through this valley or vicinity, would be
another valuable stimulus to the development of the
country. Anticipating this, Judge Carter has already established a saw-mill, and talks of bringing out another this
year.
Fort Bridger, upon our arrival, was garrisoned by three
companies of ex-rebel soldiers, who enlisted in our army,
when prisoners of war, for duty on the frontier, fighting
Indians. These troops are styled officially U. S. Volunteers, but are more generally known as "Galvanized Yankees," a term that seemed not at all offensive to them.
The post had been most shamefully abused. Troops that
had been mustered out of service shortly before our arrival, must have destroyed property from the mere desire to
destroy; but in some instances there was apparently a little
utility in their destructiveness, as they demolished buildings
for firewood.   Many of the officers just on the eve of
leaving service, winked at the vandalism of their men,
while others were unable to control them, if they had any
desire to do so.
Everybody in this section of country seemed to have
become  completely demoralized.   Citizens and soldiers
were alike in this respect.  Some of the latter were so regarded in the eastern armies, and became ten times worse
when they were sent on the plains against their wishes.
Men stole and officers stole! That is their own testimony.
I was not here to judge for myself; but I have known individuals who formerly held commissions, give to each
other the worst of characters. I might one day meet a 
AND A RIDE IN A SNOW-STORM.
former Capt. A, and he would tell me that Capt B, when
Quartermaster, swindled the Government out of thousands,
by fraudulent vouchers. The next day, perchance, I might
meet the former Capt. B, and he would tell me that Capt.
A, when Commissary of Subsistence, was the greatest
scoundrel in Utah-that he robbed the Government of
bacon and flour enough to last his family for five years, &c.
The third day I might meet the two together, and they
would both unite in telling about how Capt. C stole wagon
tires and chains to fix his mill in Rush Valley, and sold
Government horses to himself for a mere song. One officer would wilfully deceive another, apparently for the
morbid pleasure he would take in getting him in trouble,
and then tell it as a good joke.
Disciplined troops and honest officers were not sent to
this country any too soon; and I fancy that Major Burt,
when he assumed command at Fort Bridger, had not the
easiest task in the world in attempting to straighten out
things.   I must in justice to some of the late officers
remark, that they were not all of this class, by any means.
Several that I have met have proved themselves to be gentlemen, and honored the positions they held.
The locality of Fort Bridger was made a memorable one
to me on an occasion subsequent to the march I am describing, and I will here make another gap in my narrative to refer to the event, and record an exciting adventure in a snow
storm.
On a clear bright morning in the month of October a
party of seven, three ladies, a little son of one of them, and
three gentlemen, including myself, started from Camp
Douglas for Fort Bridger, on a pleasure trip. When we
started the temperature, as well as the hazy appearance of
the atmosphere over the whole valley, indicated that delightful season, Indian Summer, which is so much enjoyed
on the Atlantic coast, and elsewhere in the States.   Beinrather thickly clad, before entering the mountain pass I
removed my vest as necessary for comfort. Travelling in
ambulances, as we did, without a change of horses, it is a
63 
64   MORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER
three-days' journey.  Before completing the first, however,
we were so much higher, and the temperature so much
lower, that I not only returned my vest, but found an over coat quite a desirable addition to my clothing. The second
day was cold, damp, cloudy, and altogether very disagreeable.
And as we started on the third, the clouds still hung about
the mountains, and had already deposited on the range to
the south a coating of snow.   Only the skirts of the cloud
came over us, however, and we escaped the violence of the
storm.
Unfortunately the axle of one of our ambulances (we
had two) broke the evening before, and it had been repaired
in such a way as to leave some doubts as to its safety for
the remainder of the journey. The ladies, therefore, were
put into the more serviceable one, and we of the other sex
occupied the disabled one. This was rather a quakerish
way of dividing up the party; but considering all things,
for a fifty-miles' ride, it was thought best, and none of the
gentlemen would plead guilty to the charge of want ot
gallantry.
Our crippled wagon made the journey slow and tedious,
and as the sun was getting low, and another storm threatened, the ladies disregarded our injunction not to get far
ahead, lest either wagon should meet with an accident, and
they hurried on hoping to make Fort Bridger before dark.
The storm commenced about sundown, when we were
fifteen miles from the post. The whereabouts of the ladies
we knew nothing of; but as the night was threatening, we
hoped they had stopped at the next ranch. When we
reached it we ascertained that they passed about three-quarters of an hour before. It was only twelve miles thence to
the Fort, and as they had a good team, and a careful driver,
familiar with the road, we hoped that they would make it at
an early hour. A consultation was then held as to whether
or not we should stop with Mr. Burnes, the owner of the
ranch, for the night, or go on to the Fort. Mr. Burnes, we
ascertained, had two rooms in his cabin, which were occupied by two families, consisting of about a dozen souls, more 
AND A RIDE IN A SNOW-STORM.
or less.  We  decided to go. The numberof necessary bedfellows, or room-fellows at best, if we remained, may have
influenced us somewhat in our decision, and as the storm
was increasing we hurried off.
Ascending a hill we were upon a broad plain extending
to the Fort. Here the storm was then ten-fold more severe
than before, as the bench had protected us. The wind was
from the east, and now directly in our faces. The pelting
snow in the eyes of the mules made it difficult to keep them
in the road, which every minute was becoming more obscure. The curtains of the ambulance broke from their
fastenings, and the snow was driven furiously through its
while the night was rapidly growing colder. Our driver
soon became so benumbed as to be scarcely able to hold
the reins, and it was necessary for one of the party to walk
in front of the mules to distinguish the road.
It became evident that the driver must be relieved, or he
would freeze, and as Lieutenant S. had had more experience
in driving four animals than Mr. Dean or myself, he took
the reins, and we wrapped the driver in our only buffalo
robe. The mules were jaded, and to get them along required the free application of the whip, which the Lieutenant did not fail to make, together with some expletives
which would probably have been omitted if the ladies had
been present. In a short time our new driver had to desist,
and the original resumed his place, only to relinquish it
again in a few minutes, however. About this time Mr.
Dean, our pilot, discovered that we were off the road. The
storm howled furiously, and so did a pack of hungry wolves
that followed us, doubtless expecting that we would soon
become their prey. We knew that we were within six
miles of the Fort, but we might as well have been sixty, so
far as our comfort that night was concerned, for it was evident that we could not reach it. The only thing to be
done was to lay up for the night, so we unhitched the mules,
and tied them to the leeward of the ambulance. We could
make no fire, as we had no wood cut, nor an ax to chop
any, and if we had had both, would then have been no bet
4*
65 
66   MORE ABOUT THE BRIDGER
ter off, for we had no matches. There we were, four of us,
on an open plain, in a fearful storm, on a dark night. Our
ambulance afforded but little protection- more to the
mules on the outside than to those inside-but by lying
"spoon-fashion" we all managed to get in, and put the one
robe over us. Unfortunately it was not large enough to
completely cover the outside parties.  Lieutenant S. was
one of these, and lay with his back exposed on the side next
to the mules. Having had no supper the animals ate the
curtains from the ambulance, and next took a piece out
of the back of the Lieutenant's overcoat.   Mr. Dean
was nearly frozen, and he lay so still that we often called
him to-learn whether he was dead or alive. Being one
of the middle ones I suffered less, but spent the night
in decidedly unpleasant thoughts.   I repeated over and over
again'" Excelsior," though I felt not the least ambition to
emulate the youth's courage in a similar adventure, nor did
I very seriously think that I would meet a similar fate.
Lieutenant S. was asked the next day by a lady what his
thoughts were about, when he replied that he spent the
greater part of the night in repeating the Lord's Prayer,
which certainly was not in keeping with his audible expressions when he discovered that the mules had eaten a hole
in the back of his coat.
After what appeared as an almost interminable night,
the day finally dawned, but the storm had abated none of
its fury. As soon as it was light enough to see the road,
which could be distinguished by the aid of the telegraph
poles, we attempted to hitch up the mules, but all were so
benumbed as to render it impossible to do so. Then followed another council of war, or council of safety, and it was
decided that we would leave the driver, with the robe,which
was sufficient to keep one man warm, and the others would
walkto the post.  Before we had gone three hundred yards
Mr. Dean, fearing he would give out, returned to share the
robe with the driver. Lieutenant S. and myself pushed forward, wading through snow-drifts three feet deep, and
with the wind directly in our faces, driving the snow-flakes 
AND A RIDE IN A SNOW-STORM.
against the skin with such force as to sting like the prick of
needles.
It seemed a long, long six miles to the post, and more
than once the fear was expressed that during the night the
wind had turned our ambulance around, and that we were
going from the Fort instead of toward it. The falling snow
was so thick that no landmarks could be seen, and our minds
were not at rest concerning the direction we were pursuing,
until we reached one of the branches of Black's —Fork, near
the post. It was wide, knee-deep, and running rapidly, but
that was no time for hesitation, and we waded it immediately. Before we had walked ten rods further our pants were
as stiff as boards from the ice on them. Two other streams
were crossed in like manner, and we reached the Fort.
We then commenced thawing out; first the ice and snow
on my beard, so that I could open my mouth, and then I
drank a cup of strong, hot ginger-tea to thaw out my stomach, if in the condition " Uncle Jack" was afraid his would
become if he drank water. I then changed all my clothes,
giving the body a good rubbing, and after drinking a cup of
hot coffee, and eating a hot beefsteak, I was surprised to
find myself so comfortable. Until several minutes after I commenced undergoing the process of thawing out, I had not
doubted the safe arrival of the ladies in the garrison the
night before, and was expecting as soon as I could open
my mouth, so as to speak intelligibly, to call upon them
and talk over the adventures of the night. The reader can
imagine of my surprise and horror, when the husband of one
of them rushed into the room where I was, to inquire about
his wife, for their ambulance had not arrived. I could rea sonably account for their absence in no other way but that
they had lost the road and might have wandered far away.
A number of soldiers were immediately mounted and sent
in all directions (the storm still prevailing) in search of the
missing party. An anxious hour to a father, a husband and
a brother, as well as to myself, in whose charge the ladies
were placed, followed, but they were found and brought
safely in. They had come within a mile of the post the
67 
68   MORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER
night before, when the horses took a road leading from it,
and after wandering about for an hour or two, they stop ped for the night as we did. Fortunately they had a close
ambulance and several robes, and suffered comparatively
little from cold, though they imagined that they were so near
freezing as to render it dangerous for them to sleep, and
they kept awake all night.
A party was sent to the relief of Mr. Dean and the dri ver, and they too reached the post safely, the former ex periencing but little inconvenience; but the driver had his
feet and ears so badly frozen as to confine him to the
hospital for several weeks.
The thermometer stood at 8~ above zero the morning we
got in, and I have no idea how it stood during the night,
but it was the wind that made the cold so intolerable. I have
seen the themometer at the same place indicate 15~0 below
zero when calm, and it did not appear near so cold. The storm
was pronounced by old residents the most severe they had
ever seen in that locality.  I learned a lesson from this trip,
and shall never start on a hundred and twenty-five mile journey in this country again without being better provided for
protection against cold.  It is a good rule to observe in
these wild regions, whenever a storm overtakes a traveller,
for him to find some protected spot, if possible, stop, build
a fire, and wait until the storm ceases. However familiar
with the country one may be, he is liable to get lost if he
undertakes to travel in a severe snow-storm.
A carriage-ride of one hundred and twenty-five miles in
the States, even with comfortable stopping-places for the
night, would seem in these days a great undertaking; but
after a journey of twelve hundred miles over the plains, and
camping out every night for three months, one feels a perfect contempt for distance, and even to the ladies a threedays' ride through the mountains is as a picnic excursion
would have been the year before in civilization, nor are the
accommodations afforded by the way such as are to be had
at the Fifth Avenue. Indeed, we passed but one hotel between the Missouri River and Salt Lake City. Travellers 
AND A RIDE IN A SNOW-STORM.
in the Far West discard luxury. If one desires to sleep under
a roof, he can be accommodated at any of the stations or
ranches; but usdally travellers sleep, in or under their wagons
except in very severe weather.
As an example of the accommodations to be had, I will
describe what was furnished our party on the trip just referred to. We drove one day over fifty miles of the one
hundred and twenty-five, to reach a place that was considered a very desirable one to stop at over night. We
reached the station just at dark, and were tired enough to
content ourselves with whatever might offer. I introduced
myself to the keeper and made known our wishes, when he
promised to do the best he could for us. We soon discovered that the "best," in the way of accommodations,
was very limited, and there was not much danger of any illfeeling growing out of a selection of rooms, for there were
but two in the house, a chamber and a room of a very
general character. We had all, long before, lost fastidiousness about such things, and made the best of what offered.
The ladies were given the chamber, or rather a share
with others of their sex already at the station.   I have
heard of tenement-houses in New York, where several
families occupied one large room, and the space allowed for
each marked off with chalk on the floor; but on the night
referred to, there was not space enough between the pallets
for a chalk-mark.   Before the last could be spread, the
occupants of the room for the night had to collect inside,
for there was not space enough left for the door to open.
In the general room adjoining, the gentlemen were
allowed the soft side of some cotton-wood boards that composed the floor, together with a few blankets and a buffalo
robe, while the proprietor packed himself away in the bed
of a wagon back of the house. Fatigue is a mostexcellent
soporific, and in the condition we were half an hour after
lying down, so far as comfort was concerned, we may as
well have been where we were, as between immaculate
linen sheets on a fine hair mattress.
Such is the way travellers fare in a new country; but at
69 
IMORE ABOUT FORT BRIDGER.
the risk of being tedious on this subject, I will record the
experiences of another night out, in the same country.   On
this occasion I had but one companion, and that a gentleman. It was fortunate that it was so. We were about six
or eight miles from our station, travelling in a sleigh, and
just at dark our establishment broke down.   I meet with
such accidents, and lose the road oftener than any other
officer in the army. Remembering my experience in a
snow-storm, about which I have here told the reader, and
there being a prospect of one overtaking us if we started to
walk in, we decided to spend the night with an old
mountaineer whose cabin was not far away. We led the
horses to the place, and of course we were accommodated
as we desired, or rather as we  could be.  This ranch,
unfortunately, had but one room, in which they cooked, ate,
slept, &c. &c. The landlord occupied a bed on a rude
bedstead in one corner, and as we entered we discovered
several lying around on the dirt floor covered with robes,
but as there was no light, except such as was emitted from
a few embers on the hearth, we could not distinguish who
they were, or how many. The son of the proprietor,
whose mother is a squaw, furnished a few dirty robes, andwe stretched out in front of the fire, after adding a few
sticks which blazed up, and, to some extent, illuminated
the room.   I thought of sleep, but that was as near as I got
to it. In a few minutes others commenced dropping in
one by one, and soon I found that we were occupying a
room with at least a dozen dirty buck Indians, squaws and
pappooses.   Added to the real discomfot of lying on an
uneven piece of ground, were those of my imagination, and
a peculiar sensitiveness of my olfactory nerves, and the
thoughts of what surrounded me.
We stood it like martyrs until two or three o'clock, when
we woke up the proprietor, borrowed a couple of saddles,
and started homeward, determined  to wander about the
country the remainder of the night, if we couldn't find the
way, rather than remain.
For about three days, I was constantly smelling smoked
It
70 
FROM FORT BRIDGER &c.
buckskins, Indian paint and Indian filth.
amination of my linen, proved that I did
more numerous than when I entered, which
case.
CHAPTER X.
FROM FORT BRIDGER TO WANSHIP SETTLEMENT.
AT Fort Bridger we left two other companies, which reduced our column to a very-small remnant of the large
command that left Fort Leavenworth.
Only three companies remained, and these were destined
for Camp Douglas, where our long but pleasant march was
to terminate. Two ladies also left us here-Mrs. Major
Burt, whose husband was to assume command, and Miss
Reynolds, her sister. These ladies had been universally
esteemed, and their society highly prized. Mrs. Burt was
regarded by every one as an example of what an army
officer's wife should be.
Directly west of the post is an elevation of peculiar
appearance, known as Bridger's Butte, and also as the Flat
Mountain. It is a piece of table-land, its surface several
square miles in extent, and as flat and smooth as the
country between New Orleans and Lake Ponchartrain,
and of an elevation of several hundred feet above the fort.
The ascent to it appeared easy, but I found considerable
difficulty in making it, though the prospect afforded from so
elevated a position well repaid me for the trouble. The
entire valley, with all the bench-lands, and the mountains
surrounding these, many miles away, could be taken in at
a glance.
It was the most extended view I ever had, and the
beauty of the landscape was hardly surpassed by the pros
7'
A careful ex'leave the cabin
I feared was the 
FROM FORT BRIDGER.
pect afforded from the Black Hills which I endeavored to describe in a previous letter. To the south and east, was the
long range of Uintah Mountains, and far to the west rose
the majestic Wasach. Through the valley could be traced
the courses of the streams, by the growth of small trees
upon their banks, and off in the direction of the Uintahs was
the large forest of pines, cedars and cotton-wood, to which
I have before referred. When beholding such scenes I
would wish for a moment for the genius of the painter or
the poet, but I would soon after thank God that I was not
a genius in any profession.
A few miles further west we come to the Little and Big
Muddy streams-very inappropriately named for brooks running over pebbly beds with water as clear as a crystal.  At
other seasons, and perhaps in other places at the same season, the water is not so clear, and as they were probably first
seen by the old mountaineer Bridger when muddy, their
classic misnomer will ever attach to them.
Not far from the Muddies there is a mineral spring, the
waters of which is strongly impregnated with magnesium,
and contains also other mineral properties, and is of a very
low temperature.  There we encamped for the night. The
next day our journey lay over a more uneven country, and
we passed Quaking-asp Hill, the highest elevation crossed
by the stage-road between the Missouri River and Salt Lake,
and I am told has an altitude of more than eight thousand
feet. The hill derives its name from a species of poplar
which grows on the summit, the leaves of which hb ve a
constant tremulous motion in the wind. From the brow
of the hill there is considerable descent, within the distance
of a mile, and thence onward we found a succession of hills
and mountains, either to be crossed in our journey or contiguous to the road. Beyond Quaking-asp the next sight
that attracted my attention was that of the worm fences
and cultivated fields on Bear River. I had seen nothing of
the kind west of Kansas, and I was carried back in my recollection to the farms of old Virginia and Maryland, and
was led to a contemplation of the undeveloped agricultural
72 
TO WANSHIP SETTLEMENT.
resources of the great western country over which we had
marched, much of which could be made to yield as abundantly as the farms in the valley of the Shenandoah or the
fields in the valley before me.
On our march we have crossed streams that flow into
the Gulf of Mexico, others that send their waters to the
Pacific, and now we cross one that might be said to empty
into the clouds. Perhaps they all might, but this particularly,
as it flows into the Great Salt Lake, where there is no outlet, and where the evaporation is so rapid that' the water disappears about as fast as it enters.
Not many miles beyond Bear River, I observed in the
side and near the top of a tall hill an opening, which proved
to be Cache Cave, a place long familiar to the mountaineer
of this region, and which had often afforded shelter to the
passing emigrant and hunter during the fearful storms which
so often prevail in this mountainous country during the
winter. I rode to the mouth and, dismounting, entered and
found the cave to measure about thirty-five feet each way,
and eight feet high in the centre. The names of hundreds
of visitors were cut in the soft sandstone in which the cave
is formed, and I noticed among them a Clara   and a Jennie -, but I will give no further publicity to the fair fameseekers. It seemed an anomaly'in the order of things to
find the names of the gentler sex in this wild region, associated with those of the rough and hardy of the other
gender.
Such a continuation of wild and grand scenery as had been
afforded on the march from Bridger I had not witnessed on
any previous part of our journey, and what yet awaits my
description, before entering Salt Lake Valley, so increases in
grandeur and sublimity that I shrink from the task of attempting it. Descriptions from far abler pens than my
own, have, fallen far short of my appreciations of the scenes
when I beheld them, that I feel inclined to leave the reader
at the head of Echo Canion, and have him join me again in
the vicinity of the Mormon's " Zion," when I might say
something about the works of art, and leave the awful gran
73 
FROM FORT BRIDGER
deur of nature as seen in some parts of the route I passed
over not further alluded to, hoping that he may at some future time have an opportunity to see what I saw, but am
unable to describe. However, we must glance at some of
the salient points as we pass along. 
Descending a somewhat steep hill we entered a valley, the  head  of  Echo   Canion, which  runs  thence
to the Weber River, a distance of a little more
than  twenty  miles.    On  either  side  the  land  rises
by gentle slopes (but here and there more abruptly) into
high hills; and as we proceeded down it, the graceful declivities on the northern side gradually disappeared, and perpendicular bluffs of a conglomerate of red clay and pebbles,
from four hundred to six hundred feet high, were found instead.   At the commencement the caftion is nearly a mile
wide, but its width gradually lessens until it becomes almnost
a gorge; and on the south the hills, which continue sloping
on their surface, become steeper and taller.
This canion is the great highway through the mountains
to Salt Lake Valley, and it was here, about its narrow gorges,
that the Mormon army was stationed in'57, to prevent
the onward march of General Johnston to " Zion." Their
position was on the north side of the canion, and on the tall
bluffs they erected their rifle-pits, and at the most precipitous points immense boulders were placed, in such positions
as to be easily rolled upon the heads of those who might attempt to pass below. They also constructed dams across
the pass, down which flows a stream so as to flood it to a
considerable depth.  Some of the breast works and dams still
remain. While the precautions thus taken would have effectually prevented the onward march of a body of troops
along the road, the position of the Saint army was an entirely
untenable one. A body of infantry from the hills on the
south, which perfectly commanded the rude works, and to
the possession of which no obstacles were thrown in the way,
could in a short time have dislodged the enemy. But it
will be remembered that no fighting occurred, and had our
forces approached within threatening distance, the Prophet
74 
TO WANSHIP SETrTLEMENT..
would doubtless have had a vision in the night and moved
his deluded followers to a place of greater security.
The only casualty among the Mormons, that I know of,
during their short campaign in the cation, was the killing of
a saint by one of his comrades, under the following circumstances. The man stood upon a tall cliff, and shouted to
his companions below to shoot him if they could.   It is
more difficult to correctly estimate a distance perpendicularly
than horizontally, and the man on the bluff thought he was
beyond range, and so did the man who shot at him, in all
probability, but the ball took effect and killed him on the
spot.
Passing this part of the caion amidst the shouts of the
soldiers, for the reverberating effect, we soon came near its
mouth, where we encamped. Opposite our tents the bluffs
and hills were as high as elsewhere, and during the afternoon some of the soldiers climbed to the highest points and
shouted jocularly to their comrades below about the appearance of Trinity Church spire and the Astor House, from
their elevated stand-point.
The name of the canton is well taken. The echo along
the lower part of it where the bluffs are highest is loud and
perfect, and where we encamped the most remarkable effect
followed the beating of drums and the sounding of bugles.
With the former all was confusion of sounds, and with the
latter, when the short notes were sounded, not much more
harmony existed; but when the bugle calls were long and
slow the perfect repetition of each note in the echo was
heard with fine effect.  But I failed to appreciate any
beauty in the call for tents to be struck on the morning of
our departure. All the luxuries, in the way of diet, with
which I started from Leavenworth, had been consumed, and
a few weeks before signs of scurvy appearing among the
men, the officers had turned over to those affected the last
of their potatoes-the only fresh vegetables then remaining.
Our bill of fare had consequently become rather curtailed
as to variety; but in the vicinity I obtained lettuce, onions,
radishes, new potatoes, eggs, butter, &c., and the morning
75 
FROM FORT BRIDGER
referred to my cook prepared a breakfast of broiled trout,
boiled eggs, fried potatoes, radishes, hot cakes fit for royalty,
and when in the midst of it, the loud and familiar sound of
the bugle and its reverberations told that the tents must
fall. Would the reader have been less disgusted than I
was? But I finished my breakfast as they lifted the tent
over me.   Afterward, when mounted  on my  horse and
leisurely smoking my pipe, I better enjoyed the effect of the
echo to the call to which the soldiers lave applied the
words:
"I know you are tired, but still you must go,
So shoulder your musket and march along slow."
On the trip to Fort Bridger, that terminated in an
adventure in a snow-storm, to which I referred in my
last, I was much amused by a teamster we met in
this canon. Coming to a miry place, our ambulances
were halted for me to select the best crossing, and at
the same time a rather Hoosier-like fellow, with two
or three wagons, approached the opposite side of the!
slough. I had about decided where to attempt the cross-,
ing when he came up, but thinking I might profit byi
his larger experience, we had a conversation as follows:
"This is rather a bad place, sir," said I.
"Well-yes-'tis a little damp." (We afterward found
the liquid mud to be a foot and a half deep.)
" But don't you think it safer to attempt to cross here
thai above?"
"Well-yes-you might try."
"Do you think it safe to make the attempt with the
ladies in the ambulance?"
"Well-yes-don't see any mules' ears, or wagon bows
sticking out-somebody has crossed, or gone clean under."
"Seriously, don't you think there is a firm bottom under
this mud?"
"Well-yes-if you go down deep enough to reach it."
"Joking aside, my friend, would you advise me to attempt
it here or at the crossing above?"
76 
TO WANSHIP SETTLEMENT.
"Well-don't  know-this is narrow, and if you go
under here, then you know exactly where your wagon has
gone down."
"I see I can't get much out of you-Do you intend to
cross here?"
"You bet."
There was more in the fellow's manner and tone of
voice that was amusing, than in what he said, and he caused
one of the ladies to laugh away a headache. We crossed
without difficulty, but when our laconic stranger attempted
it, in the same place, his loaded wagons sank deep, and the
first stuck fast, when we had a good laugh at his expense,
while he was doubling teams to pull it out.
On the Weber I beheld still more familiar and more beautiful sights than I observed on Bear River. In addition to
fields of wheat, barley and oats which grew in great luxuriance, the vegetable gardens at the station-house were filled
with all the table vegetables cultivated in the same, and
more southern latitudes in the States. - The green lettuce
and the onion-tops appeared more beautiful as they grew
there because of the contrast with the wild rugged hills and
bluffs close by, and the hills and bluffs appeared more wild
and sublime because of the contrast with the tender cultivated plants at their base.
The Weber is a stream abounding with trout, and some
of them larger than in the streams near Fort Bridger, to
which I referred in my last. Though we are supposed to
have started on the march I must tell the reader of my
trout-fishing the day before. It-was in the Weber where I
indulged in that sport for the first time in my lifeothers of the command had caught them in several places
further east.
I had heard of trout-fishing from early boyhood, but had
never before been in a country where they are caught, and I
longed to indulge in the sport. So during the afternoon we
were in camp near the stream I prepared my tackle and
went alone to try my luck. I had scarcely got my line into
the water when it was grabbed with all the dash which
77 
FROM FORT BRIDGER
characterizes the bite of the trout, and with a jerk as
quick I threw the speckled beauty on the bank. It was an
epoch in my life!  I had caught my first trout!  And I
was as delighted as a little girl with her first doll on a
Christmas morning. Subsequent to this event I have indulged freely in the sport, and on one occasion I knew of
fifty-four being caught in a few hours by one individual.
The station at the mouth of the canion is kept by a Mormon, and several of the same faith live in the vicinity. My
first impressions of them for thrift and industry were favorable.  I purchased vegetables of a " Saint," who is "the
husband of one wife" (not at least one, as they explain St.
Paul's injunction to mean), or rather I purchased them of the
wife who appeared to be the better man of the two; and I
would here add that this is the only instance I have observed in my intercourse with Mormons where the woman
was treated as if she had any rights whatever, or her Judgment and opinion respected in the least.  But of the Mormons more hereafter.
Around the stage stations, everywhere from Atchison
to Salt Lake City, large flocks of the common blackbirds were constantly collected; but at the mouth of
Echo Canion I saw for the first time those of the
magpie species. They are larger than the common blackbird in the States, with a larger tail, in which white feathers
predominate, and parts of their wings are of the same. The
white feathers looked whiter and the black blacker because
of the association of the two.  It is too pretty a bird for
one of its habits, which  are the same  as the  crow's.
Ravens are very numerous in this country, also; but the
reader must not suppose that the ravens of the Rocky
Mountain regions, and the crows that are such a nuisance
to the farmers in Virginia, and elsewhere in the South, are
the same bird. Of course they belong to the same family;
but the former are larger, have a broader and stouter bill,
and are of a more glossy black, nor do they make quite
such unmusical sounds, or so many of them, as the crows.
The above, with a few turtle-doves, were the only things of
78 
TO WANSHIP SETTLEMENT.
the bird kind in this section of country, so the guns were
packed away, and fishing rods and lines took their places.
The Weber River, along which our route lay for several
miles, flows into the Dead Sea of America a short distance
below the mouth of the Bear River. Along this stream
there are numerous farms, and nearly the whole country, as
far as we marched, was cut up by fences. The farms here
are irrigated from streams that flow into the river.  The
stream down Echo, Chalk creek, a few miles south of it, and
other mountain streams, are made useful in this way. The
grain fields were just ripening for harvest when we passed,
and in this valley wheat, oats and rye yield almost as luxuriantly as in the most fertile parts of the valley of the
Great Salt Lake, of which I shall say something in a future
letter.
Passing southward we soon came to a settlement of the followers of Brigham, known as Coalville, and so named because of the coal found there, and is the source from which
Salt Lake City is supplied with that fuel. It requires to be
hauled fifty miles.
Coalville contains about seventy-five small houses, and
has a population of about five hundred, including children,
who largely predominate.   Most of the houses are of logs,
very roughly constructed, but there are also several neat
adobe residences and stores.   I was pleased with the appearance of one of the buildings, and approaching I read on
a slab over the door, "Coalville Meeting-house." I felt
disposed to respect the deluded people for setting apart the
best house in their village as a place of worship; but when
passing through the place, on another occasion, I observed
hanging by the side of the door of their "Meeting-house"
a variety of specimens of the art of the photographer.
Whether or not the house had been converted into a photographic establishment as a more profitable use to put it to,
or the artist and priest used it jointly, I am unable to say,
but am inclined to the opinion that the minister was also the
photographer, and had combined his spiritual and secular
interest in an economical way.
79 
FROM WANSHIP
A few miles below Coalville we passed another Mormon
settlement of more recent origin, the name of which I did
not learn.   From-Echo Canon to this point the land along
the river is fenced in, though but little of it is cultivated.
Crossing the river we marched to at hird settlement, called
Wanship.
CHAPTER XI.
FROM WANSHIP TO SALT LAKE VALLEY.
WANSHIP is a Mormon village of about three hundred inhabitants, and is located on the overland stage route, near
the Weber River. It consists of houses along both sides
of the road, and the gardens attached to each, like in most
country villages, causes it to stretch out to a considerable
length.
A German has here established a lager beer brewery
for the accommodation of travellers whose Tuetonic tastes
lead them to indulge in this drink, which, by the way, is
fast becoming a national one in this country. I took a glass
or two, and I think I must have done so simply because it
is called by the same name as the good beer in St. Louis,
of which I was so fond-certainly not because I relished
the poor stuff.
Near the upper end of the village I stopped at the house
of one of the settlers, whose garden presented a fine appearance, to replenish my stock of vegetables for the remainder
ofthe journey.  I was received by a stout English woman
who treated me courteously, and signified her willingness
to accommodate me with a portion of anything the garden
produced.   She called for "Sister," when a much rougher
looking Danish woman appeared and accompanied me to the
garden to gather the vegetables. I afterward learned that
80 
TO SALT LAKE VALLEY.
the "Sister" was also the wife of her husband, and I was
for the first time under the roof of a polygamist.   Both
lived in the same house, but their duties appeared to be
very distinct. The English woman appeared to be the Mary
of the household, and the Dane the Martha. I had no ac count of their conjugal history, but am very much inclined
to think that the former was the last espoused. The Dane
appeared more like a womian hired to work in the garden,
and her labor was certainly worth more than the cost of her
subsistence and clothing. The vegetables being ready I asked
the bill, when the Dane looked as if she was somewhat
doubtful as to the capacity of my pocket-book, and hesitated,
but the " Sister" thought it had better be left to the gen tleman to pay what he pleased. I insisted on the amount
being named, and then appreciated the diplomacy of the liberal (?) party, for I should have never offered so small a sum.
After drinking a glass of buttermilk I started, and as we
did so the English "Sister" expressed the hope that an officer who was with me might have his eyes opened and becomea bright shining light in the Church of Latter Day
Saints-" and who knows but such may be the case!" said
she. In my conversation she seemed to feel no interest.
She appeared to be the happiest duplicate wife I ever saw.
Her Danish colleague was by no means so jovial, and though
she appeared resigned to her fate, looked by no means contented or happy.
Running by the village on to the Weber River, where it
empties, is a clear, beautiful stream, fitly named Silver
Creek, and but a short distance above we entered the mouth
of a canton through which the stream flows, and from it
the caftion takes its name. It was narrow from the first,
and the tall hills on either side rose to a greater altitude
than those along Echo Canion, to which I referred in my
last, but they are nowhere abrupt and precipitate.   The
base of the hills ran almost to the banks of' the stream;
the road was cut in the slope on the western side, and in
order to make it wide enough for a single wagon, in some
places it was necessary to cut a perpendicular bank of ten
S
8r 
FROM WANSHIP
or twelve feet. The dashing mail-coach is the terror of
those who drive light vehicles along these narrow places.
Throughout the cafion the range of tall hills on both sides
was quite destitute of gorges or abrupt cliffs, and many
with neatly rounded dome-like summits. The canon being so narrow, where there was a somewhat short curve in
its course the hills on the two sides appeared to meet and
terminate the pass, and more than once was I completely
deceived, thinking it impossible to go much further without
ascending a very steep hill, but I looked in vain for the
road up its sides, and going to the spot, found it to continue
on as before, only changing its direction. The windings of
the cafion added to the beauty of the scenery.   But the
most attractive feature was the beautiful creek.  Along it,
and it was constantly in sight, the green leaves of the willow, and the shrubbery growing on its banks, contrasted
beautifully with the silvery waters that glided by them, and
a more lovely sight of this character I never beheld.  In
places the water ran over pebbles and boulders, which could
be seen as distinctly as if through the clearest crystal, and
here and there a little cascade leaped from a projecting rock
to form an eddy below, so inviting as a lurking-place for the
mountain trout. And gushing from the hill by the roadside
were numerous springs, rivalling, if possible, the clear waters
of the creek. Amid such beauties of nature we marched
about eight miles. It was the season best suited for seeing
the cafion with its greatest attractions. All nature seemed
to conspire to render the scene grand and lovely!
Leaving the cafion we passed over a ridge to Parley's
Park, a wide valley or basin, nearly surrounded by mountains
and hills. It might be easily irrigated, and the whole might
be put under a high degree of cultivation, provided the
climate is not too cold, for like Fort Bridger this locality is
very high. This park, as well as the canion, which we will
reach presently, are named after a prominent Mormon,
Parley Pratt, once one of the Apostles, who was assassinated
a few years ago by the enraged husband of a womanl who
became a convict to Mormonism, through the ministry (ot
82 
TO SALT LAKE VALLEY.
Pratt in California, and afterward joined him as his fifth
wife.
In this basin, Mr. Kimball, a son of Heber C. Kimball,
the second President of the Church, has erected the largest
and best built house I had seen west of the magnificent
mansion of Mr. Majors, near Atchison, Kansas. It is of
stone, two stories, with a long back building, and is used as
a hotel. Mr. Kimball is a Mormon, having three wives,
one of whom lives with him at the hotel, a second occupies
a rude log cabin on the opposite side of the road, and the
third is at his residence in the city.
Mr. Kimball in his conversation with me appeared to be
the most reasonable and liberal man of that faith with whom
I have conversed. At one time he was a prominent Elder
in the church, and has been missionary in England, but latterly takes little interest in her affairs.  He has a large inclosed and cultivated farm, and raises herds of sheep and
cattle, which graze upon the mountains and the lowlands
around his premises. In many parts of Utah there are fine grazing lands, and though I may not have seen "cattle upon a
thousand hills," I think I have seen there a thousand cattle
upon a hill. Were it not for the hostility of the Indians I
imagine the territory would raise more stock than at present.
The resident Indians of Utah have been hostile to the
Mormons, but I think are so because it is profitable to be,
and not because of any unfair dealing with them, as they
charge upon the settlers.  I am of the opinion that a population of Gentiles would be subjected to exactly the same
annoyances and depredations. I have not the slightest confidence in the Indians, and will give my reasons for not
having in a future letter.
In the valley a short distance from Mr. Kimball's, another
settlement is about starting, and a few miles west of that we
crossed a tall ridge of the Wasach Mountains, known as
"The Summit," and soon commenced to descend through
Parley's Canon. For six miles the scenery is not unlike that
in parts of Silver Creek Canon, but here the eminences may
be called mountains, and in the other, hills; but in the lower
portion the scenery is more wild and romantic.
83
I -1 
FROM WANSHIP
The feelings of admiration for the beautiful in nature as
seen in my ride along Silver Creek, watching its " laughing
waters," were changed to those of wonder and awe, when
I stood before the towering mountains and rugged cliffs in
Parley's Cafion. There nature was seen in her wildest and
most majestic forms.   Great strata of rocks, hundreds of
feet thick, as they lay where originally formed, had been
fissured through, and on one side of the fissure thrown up
to form immense mountains bordering the  cafion.  The
strata of these were as regular as when they were subterranean horizontal layers; but now running at an angle of
forty-five degrees, and where they had broken off, cropped
out along the sides of almost perpendicular bluffs. In places
they could be seen only along the one side where they
terminated; but here and there a mass had been thrown up,
which had been fissured in two ways where the strata could
be traced along its sides also.   The thought of the force
required thus to upheave the verv foundations of the earth
was an almost overwhelming thought.   It filled me with
profound awe and reverence.  The terrific force still pent
up in the bowels of the earth beneath, I could never before
so fully comprehend as when I observed its effects there before me. Had I known nothing of the Creator I should
have worshipped the " Unknown God," amid such wonderful
evidences of majestic power.
The cafion varies much in width and in some places the
stream runs so near the bluffs as not to permit two wagons
to pass.  In such places many teams had to wait for our
column and train to get by, and even the mail-coach had to
give up the right of way.
The stream here is larger than Silver Creek, and its fall
in twelve or fifteen miles I would estimate as considerably
over two thousand feet; and as there are no cascades of
more than a few feet in height, the water along the canion
rushes rapidly over its uneven and rocky bed.   A  curious
and beautiful phenomenon appeared on the slope of the mountain on the south side as we were nearing the terminus of
the pass.   It was a large stream pouring from an opening
84 
TO SALT LAKE VALLEY.
in the grouud-about half-way between summit and base, and
forming a torrent along the mountain side to the stream in
the valley below.  It was doubtless a drain from mountains
south, which after making a subterranean passage through
the range bordering the cation gushed out from its hidingplace where I saw it. If a view of Harper's Ferry on the
Potomac is worth a trip from Europe, as Mr. Jefferson represented it was, certainly a sight of Echo and Parley's canons is worth a continuation of the journey through the Rocky
Mountains.
We camped for a night amid some of these scenes, and
again, for the last time on our journey, I indulged in the
sport of trout-fishing.   On the Weber River I could wait
in one place for the trout to come along, but in the smaller
mountain streams they waited for me, and I had to find their
rambling places, requiring tnuch more exertion, but the sport
amply repaid. In one hole, a few feet from my tent, I caught
several, but I walked two miles before abandoning the sport.
As we approached the terminus of this, the last pass of
our jour-ney, the mountains separated wider, and more of
the clear blue sky could be seen in front of us. Leaving the
ioad to the city,we took another winding around the mountain
side, and before emerging entirely from the caloft we came to
another lager beer brewery, but satisfied with my experience at the last, and being impatient to reach a position but
a little beyond, from which I could view the great valley, I
passed without stopping.
But here I must leave the reader, and in my next will attempt to describe the scene beyond, which is to the Mormon
emigrant, after his long and toilsome journey, a source of
delight almost as great as was the sight of the cross to Bunyan's Christian.
E5 
CHAPTER XII.
SALT LAKE VALLEY AND THE CITY.
WINDING around the side of the mountain from the lager
beer brewery, we were soon upon a bench beyond the range,
with the rich valley of the Great Salt Lake stretched out
before us. It was a clear, pleasant morning-not a cloud
in the sky, and everything conspiring to make the prospect
enjoyable. The interests of our command all centred in
Camp  Douglas, and the eyes of officers and soldiers instinctivelv turned to the north, and gazed upon their new
home with a delight almost equal to that of the Mormon
proselyte, when, after the same journey, and from the same
stand-point, he beholds for the first time his new Zion.
Camp Douglas is situated upon the tallest of a series of
benches which rise one above another from the valley to
the base of the mountains on the east. Its white buildings,
surrounding a tall staff, from which the stars and stripes
floated to the breeze, was a pretty sight; but tlere was too
much to be seen for this to occupy my attention more than
a few moments.
Immediately below the post, to the west, lay the renowned Salt Lake City.  In tle distance it appeared like a large
nursery; its fruit-trees almost obscuring the smaller houses,
which they everywhere surrounded. Here and there a larger
building rose above the green foliage, and the immense
arch of the unfinished tabernacle was conspicuous beyond
the rest. North of the city was the lake formed by the waters of the hot springs, and west, the Great Salt Lake, with
its mountain islands rising from the water. Near its southeastern border commenced the West Mountains, which 
SALT LAKE VALLEY, &c.
run south to near Utah Lake-the most southerly part of
the valley visible from my stand-point, though it extends far
beyond; thence, along the eastern border of the valley, rose
the majestic Wasach Mountains, through which we had
passed, and towering up, almost above us, were the "Twin
Peaks," their snow-crowned summits in remarkable contrast with the green fields of the valley and the fruit-trees
of the city.
Through the valley flowed the waters of Jordan from
Utah Lake to the Dead Sea, and along its banks the fields
of grain, just ripening for the harvest, dotted the surface of
the plain before me.   Beyond the river the deposits of alkali,
shining under the sun's rays, looked like miniature lakes.
But no description of mine will lead to a proper appreciation
of the beauty of this landscape scene.  And all this valley,
twenty years ago, was a wild, sterile waste, which, by the
persevering industry of the laborious Mormon, has been
made to "blossom like the rose." Where formerly only
sage-brush and grease-wood grew, and the mountaineer
thought it would be madness to attempt to cultivate, there
are now fields of wheat, oats and barley, yielding an average of forty bushels to the acre, while the more fertile and
better cultivated farms sometimes produce eighty and ninety.
When the emigrant Mormons first entered the valley
with a view to cultivatingit, the old settlers in the vicinity said
they would give them a hundred dollars for every bushel of
grain they raised them.   If the mountaineers had made good
their offer the Mormons would now be an immensely wealthy
people. They have certainly wrought a great change in
the country.   I award to them all credit for their enterprise
and industry.
Camp Douglas was established in I862, by the then Col.
Patrick E. Connor, of the Third California Volunteer Infantry, which regiment arrived in the valley in the fall of that
year. Temporary quarters were built for the troops the
first winter, and the following summer the present post was
erected.   Col. Connor was afterward made brigadier-general, and assigned to the command of the district of Utah,
87 
SALT LAKE VALLEY
when he established his headquarters at this post.   The
garrison is built of wood, with quarters for eight companies. The troops occupying them upon our arrival belonged
to California and Nevada volunteer regiments, under the
command of Lieutenant-Colonel Johns, who appeared to
be a good officer, and was not lacking in the amenities
which should pertain to his position, as commanding officer,
upon the arrival of a new command.
The post was in a very good condition compared with
the one we last visited (Bridger), and since our arrival has
not only been greatly improved in general appearance, but
Major Grimes, the Quartermaster, has added some very
large store-rooms, and stables.
But I have something to write about of more interest to
the reader than a detailed description of Camp Douglass
and will occupy no more space with that now.
We reached there about noon, and after dining with the
hospitable surgeon, Dr. Hamilton, I immediately started on
a tour of observation. Cleanliness being ranked by some
very high in the catalogue of virtues, I first resorted to the
warm sulphur springs, and took a bath, thus combining
a gratification of curiosity with utility. There are several
of these near together, two miles north of the city.  The
water from the largest is conducted to a house containing a
tank or reservoir, eighteen by twenty feet, and about five
feet deep. The stream, almost large enough to turn a mill,
enters the tank on one side, and an opening on the opposite
side prevents it from overflowing, and it is thus kept constantly supplied with fresh water as it runs from the spring
in the hill-side. In the centre, above the warm water, is a
platform, with a cold shower-bath over it, very suggestive of
shocks to the nervous system.   Near the plunge-bath is a
larger building, conveniently fitted up with bathing-tubs,
after the manner of the better class of bath-houses in our
eastern cities. This part of the establishment is supplied
with water of the same temperature, and is for the accommodation of both ladies and gentlemen. I chose the plungebath, and plunging in, experienced a sensation near akin to
88 
AND THE CITY.
that of scalding; but in a minute the temperature was endurable and even pleasant. Remaining immersed too long,
however, I paid the penalty in the enervation that followed.
The water is soft and delightful for a bath, is strongly impregnated with sulphur, which gives it a light blue color,
and I should judge the temperature to be above one hundred
degrees.
Salt Lake City is on the lowest bench of land between
the Jordan and the mountains on the east. The site is well
selected, with a view to drainage and irrigation, and altogether it has a very desirable location. It could be enlarged
almost indefinitely with the same advantages as a city it now
possesses.
Washington must surrender to Salt Lake City the expressive name given to it by John Randolph, and no longer
be called the "City of Magnificent Distances."
Salt Lake City is regularly laid out, with the streets at
right angles. The squares are of uniform size, containing,
as originally planned, eight lots of one and a quarter acres
each. Many of these have been divided and subdivided,
and on the business streets cut up into building lots.
In the early part of its existence there was built along the
north and south boundaries of the city, a tall wall of earth,
nominally for defence against the Indians, but really to
afford labor to the suffering and disaffected Saints.  The
chosen people of God, as they claim to be, in these latter
days were not exempt from the infirmities that characterized God's chosen people of old. As they murmured
against Moses, when suffering in a desolate country, so the
Latter Day Saints murmured against Brigham for bringing
them out to die in the wilderness, as they thought.
There was trouble then in Zion, that threatened serious
consequences to the new church, but Brigham Young was
equal to the emergency. He would not allow them to live
in idleness, and think over their misfortunes, so he encouraged all kinds of amusements, and employed large numbers
to build this wall, which was really of no utility; and when
the necessity for finding employment in this way for the
5*
89 
SALT LAKE VALLEY
people had passed, the work was stopped, and the defences
of the city were not completed. We cannot now "walk
about Zion and consider her bulwarks," for even those that
once existed have been allowed to crumble, and wash away,
and only fragments remain to mark the places where the de fences were once building.
The large majority of the houses in Salt Lake City are
small, one-story frame or adobe tenements, but there are
many handsome residences and fine stores. The latter are
built of red sandstone, obtained in the vicinity, or of adobes,
plastered and painted in imitation of masonry. There are
residences in Salt Lake City that would attract attention,
from their fine appearance, in the western district of New
Orleans, and the store of Mr. Jennings, a Mormon merchant, would be creditable to Canal street. A very large
proportion of the houses, off the business streets, are surrounded by gardens, varying in size from the original lots to
a quarter of an acre, and in these grow fruit-trees of several
varieties, often entirely surrounding the houses, which, except on Main street, are required to be set back several feet
from the front line of the lot. Almost every family raises
its own table vegetables, and the market is supplied with all
kinds of fruit and berries, in season, from the gardens within
the city limits.
But little. rain falls in Salt Lake City, or indeed anywhere
in the valley, hence it is necessary to secure moisture for
vegetation in some other-way. This is done by irrigation.
The gardens in the city are watered by streams fiom the
mountains, to the east and northeast, which are so conducted as to run along the streets.  The ditches cut for
these streams make it as unpleasant to drive through the
streets of Salt Lake City, as in the national capital, where
they are about as badly cut up with uncovered gutters.
Little drains are dug leading into all the gardens, and water
conducted to them according to the demands of the things
cultivated.   For this irrigating water the property-holder is
charged just as he would be for Croton water on his premises in New York. The supply as at present conducted to
go 
AND THE CITY.
the city would not be equal to the demand, if the water
ran through all the gardens at the same time, which indeed
is unnecessary, so it is furnished to a certain number for
certain specified hours, and is then shut off from these to
supply others.
Taking the city as a whole, it presents more the appearance of a New England village, or the suburbs of a southern town, save in the style of its buildings.
The curiosity of the visitor naturally leads him to see,
first, the President's Block and Temple Square. The former, on South Temple street, fronting south, is surrounded
by a ten-foot wall of cobble-stones, set in cement.   On the
southwest corner is a large building, where the " Deseret
News" is printed, and adjoining is a row of one-story buildings, where a few favored ones are allowed to live within the
inclosure.  Next comes the "Lion House,"a long twostory building, gable end to the street, with the representation of a lion, cut in stone, nearly life-size, over the entrance. This is the Prophet's harem, where the majority
of his wives reside. Whether or not the lion over the entrance is indicative of the ferocity that would be visited
upon the head of a Gentile who dare enter there, I am
unable to say. Next beyond is the Bee-Hive House, so
named from a representation of a hive that surmounts the
centre of the roof, which is the Prophet's own residence,
and adjoining is his business sanctum, and the general business office of the Church. Between the Lion House and
the Bee-Hive House, is a large gate-way which is the entrance to City Creek Cation, and over this is the figure of
an eagle. City Creek Canon has been conveyed to Brigham
Young by an act of the territorial legislature, notwithstanding it is unsurveyed Government land. In this canion is all
the wood to be had in the vicinity of the city, and the Prophet requires one load in every three that are cut for the
privilege of collecting fuel on his property.
Last in the row of houses, and a little further removed,
stands the residence of the " first wife," who lives in great
seclusion, and is but seldom seen by any one, Mormon or
9x 
SALT LAKE VALLEY
Gentile. The tithing offices, where tithes are paid in prod uce, is on the side of the square facing west, and is a long
row of one-story buildings. In rear of Mr. Young's resi dence is the church store, where the faithful may purchase
on credit what they require, and pay for it in produce or
otherwise, as best suits their convenience, when rendering
the yearly account of their stewardship.   There is also a
school-house in the inclosure, where the younger Youngs'
young ideas are taught to shoot.
Within the inclosure which surrounds all these buildings,
and takes in a number of acres, grow some of the choicest
variety of the peach, pear and apple.  These fruit are excellent, and so are the strawberries and raspberries, which
are also largely cultivated in the city; but the grape has not
reached that degree of excellence that characterizes the
others.
Most of these buildings, when erected, were palaces compared to others in Zion, (particularly the Lion House, which
is said to have cost $65,o00oo), and for neatness and solid
substantial appearance, they are ahead of the more recently
constructed residences of other dignitaries in the church,
some of which present a very fine appearance. Some of
the Mrs. Youngs, I am told, live without the defences of
their husband, and occupy private residences in other parts
of the city.
Temple Square is next west of that in which the Prophet
resides, Main street running between. It is to contain the
Temple and Tabernacle. The former has been fifteen years,
building, and is now only a few feet above ground. The
plan of the building makes it to be one hundred and eightysix and a half feet long, from east to west, and ninety-nine
feet from north to south.   There are to be towers on the
four  corners, and  centre  towers,  also,  a little  taller
than the others, on the east and west ends, all of
which project but slightly above the roof, and are to be one
hundred and ninety and two hundred feet high.
Cuts of the Temple as it is to be, or rather as it is planned
to be, make it a massive, substantial-looking edifice. It
92  
_____          — ~
-— ~-  ____        ___
;-~~ M~~~~A\ ~ ~
o
TABERNACLE
SALT LAKE C'ITY.
l 
AND THE CITY.
combines several kinds of architecture, though the combination is well made, and does not destroy the beauty of the
building. The work on the Temple is progressing with a
view to its greater durability than the one destroyed at Nauvoo, Illinois. The blocks of granite of which the foundation is made, are not only dressed on the face, but the six
sides of the cubes are made as regular and even as the
square and spirit-level of the mechanic can make them.
The masonry now in, unless disturbed by man or nature, in
other ways than the ordinary changes wrought by time, will
exist for thousands of years.
But it is the universal opinion with anti-Mormons, and
I have no doubt with many observing ones of the Faith, also,
that the Temple will be longer in building than Solomon's
was, or in other words, that it will never be completed. A
very small number of workmen are now employed on itjust sufficient to make it appear that the work is progressing,
and afford an excuse for collecting to prosecute it. Many
have already secured seats in the Temple by contributing funds
for that special purpose.  A  story is told of a saint who
lived in a remote part of the territory; and had paid for a
choice seat, who visited Zion, and expected to occupy her
place in the Temple, thinking the structure actually existed
as represented in lithographs she had seen.
There is a little incident connected with building the
Temple which I must  mention  here.    The  stone of
which the structure is to be reared is brought from the
mountains, a number of miles distant, and to facilitate its
transportation, the Prophet had a canal cut from the quarry
toward the city; but a blunder of the engineer ruined the
enterprise. The end of the canal in the city was unfortunately higher than where it started from the quarry, and
while Mr. Young could not " remove mountains," neither
was his faith sufficient to overcome another natural law, anrA
make water run up hill.
The Tabernacle is in the same inclosure, and is to consist of an immense wooden arch, supported on stone pilasters, ten on twelve feet high. The span of the arch is one
93 
SALT LAKE VALLEY
hundred and eighty feet, and its length two hundred and
fifty feet, with ends rounded off, and to rest on similar sup ports at the sides.   It is to be used as a place of worship
in the summer season only, and below the arch is to be left
open. The Prophet informed me, and I have no doubt he
is good authority in such matters, that the arch of the Tab ernacle has a wider span than any other wooden arch in the
world.  It is calculated to seat twelve thousand persons.  It
is progressing rapidly toward completion, and nearly the
whole arch now is covered in.
An immense organ is also building, and I have no doubt
within a year the new Tabernacle will be occupied.
The present Tabernacle, which is in the same inclosure,
consists of a long, low, shed-like building, capable of seat ing less than a thousand people, and is used only in the winter.  During the warm season their worship is in the" Bowery." This consists of a shelter from the sun, made of
green boughs placed on a frame-work of timber, about ten
feet above the ground. At one end is the pulpit, of very
large size, made of rough boards, which are whitewashed.
Along the back of this are arranged the seats for the officials,
a host of whom occupy the pulpit whenever there is public
service.  The President's seat is in the middle, and extending from, toward either end of the row; the other
officials, of whom I shall speak in another letter, are seated
according to rank-the highest next to Brigham's colleagues
in the presidency, who are seated on his right and left.
Sunday afternoon service in the Bowery reminded me very
much of old-fashioned camp-meetings I sometimes attended
when a boy.
Next to the Bowery the theatre is the most popular
place for the faithful in Zion. It is always filled when
there is a play, and by a class of people certainly not capable
of a very profound appreciation of the drama. They probably go from a sense of duty (the same that takes them to
the Bowery on the Sabbath), for the theatre is owned by
the Presic,'nt, and conducted by one of his sons-in-law for
his father-in-law's pecuniary benefit.   Every saint then
'94 
AND THE CITY.
that pays his entrance fee, considers that he is keeping
Brother Brigham, and to do so is to him a pleasure.
The theatre is the largest building in the city.  It has a
very plain exterior, but I am informed that the interior arrangement'cannot be surpassed tor completeness and elegance
by any theatre in the country, since the burning of the
Academy of Music in New York city. Near the theatre
is the City Hall, one of the finest buildings in the city. It
is built of red sandstone, and the tin covering of the rounded
top of its cupola on the centre of the roof, is conspicuous from  all the  approaches to the city   In another part of the city is a somewhat similar building, the
court-house of the " State of Deseret."
The public hall of the " Council of Seventy," is in the
same locality, and so is the "Social Hall," belonging to
Brigham, which is hired for balls, &c. There is but one
hotel in the city, the Salt Lake House, which isa two-story
building, with limited accommodations, often insufficient
for the demand, and would not be creditable to any town of
five thousand inhabitants east of the Mississippi.*
The hotel, like the theatre, I have been told by good authority, is the property of Brigham Young, and is conducted
for him by a relative. A skeptic might suppose that the President has some regard for lucre, as well as the salvation of
the souls of his fellow-men.
On Main street, in the vicinity of the hotel, nearly all the
principal business houses are situated. That of Mr. Jennings, to which I have already alluded, is but one of a number of large stores. Walker Brothers, Ramshoff & Co.,
Gllbert & Sons, are the principal Gentile merchants, but
the last named Gentile firm are also 7ews. There is known
no distinction between Jew and Christian by the Mormon-they are both Gentiles to him. There are a number
* Since this was written another hotel, known as the Revere House, has been
started by a Gentile, and I understand at least one other will be opened next
summer. Gentile houses, I should think, would do well, as the majority of
the patrons of the Salt Lake House are anti-Mormons.
95 
SALT LAKE VALLEY, &c
of other firms who have no sympathy with Mormonism,
that conduct a large and profitable business.   The firm I
first mentioned have apostatized from the faith and left the
church.   The immediate cause of the rupture was  Brigham Young's dissatisfaction with the amount of tithing they
paid, he claiming that it was not one-tenth of their entire
profits.  This is one striking instance of agrowing dissatisfaction arising from this church extortion. The amount
of business done in Salt Lake City will probably astonish
most of my readers. In I865 the purchases of Jennings
amounted to $46o,ooo; while there are half-a-dozen firms
at least, that exceeded $200,000 in their purchases, and this
is the cost of the goods in the East, to which must be added the immense cost of transportation from the Atlantic
almost across the continent.
There are also several photographic establishments in the
city, all owned by Mormons. Savage & Ottinger have the
best, and are really good artists.   They probably realize a
much larger income from the sale of views, and cards of
the distinguished men in the church, than from the work
they do for individuals.   They charge five dollars a dozen
for the cards they keep for sale, and the same if an individual has a sitting.   Large as is the business done by these
merchants, many will be surprised to learn that their stores
are conducted upon the plan of country and village stores in
the States. Every variety of goods, wares and implements
are sold in each establishment, and to Jennings' is added the
business of the broker also.   In the same store, a customer
may purchase anything, from a threshing-machine to a box
of Ayers' pills; from a costly silk dress, or pair of white
satin slippers, to a sack of potatoes or a pound of brown
soap; and the articles purchased may be paid for in coin, gold
dust, greenbacks, Mormon shinplasters, flour, grain, pumpkins, cabbages, etc.  Such articles of produce form the circulating medium everywhere. A saint from thecountry will
bring in a load of pumpkins, and cabbage, and first he will
turn in the tenth of them to the tithing office; then he will
make his purchases at the stores, and pay for them in the
96 
THE DEAD SEA OF AMERICA.
same, and then he will to go the theatre, with a wife hold of
one arm, and a pumpkin under the other to pay for his ticket
Prices are very high. An ordinary cooking-stove sells for one
hundred and fifty to one hundred and seventy-five dollars;
common cane-seat chairs, seventy-five dollars for a set of six;
plain pine bedsteads for sixty dollars; ingrain carpet for three
and a half dollars per yard. Groceries and produce command
the following prices: Good ham, one dollar per pound;
bacon, seventy-five cents; coffee, eighty cents; tea, from
three to five dollars; dried fruit, fifty to seventy-five cents;
syrup, six to eight dollars per gallon, &c.  But the productions of the territory range at lower figures.  Beef, fifteen
to twenty cents per pound; mutton, a few cents higher;
butter, fifty cents; new potatoes, one and a half dollars per
bushel; onions, carrots, radishes, &c., cheap.
Three newspapers are published inthe city.   The "Vedette" is an anti-Mormon sheet, which a few months ago
was conducted with very little regard for decency or propriety.   Under  its present management  it does  better.
This paper was started by General Connor, and for a long
time indulged in the most unwarranted abuse of the Mormons.    The " Telegraph" is a Mormon  paper, and the
"Deseret News" the official organ of the church.   The
two former have daily issue, and the latter appears only
weekly.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE DEAD SEA OF AMERICA.
ON the second day after my arrival at Camp Douglas,
Captain Grimes, the obliging and efficient quartermaster,
furnished a handsome "turn out" of four fine horses and a
Santa Fe6 ambulance, and, with one companion, I was soon
dashing over Jordan, in the direction of the Great Salt
Lake.
97 
THE DEAD SEA
But before we go to the Lake, as I may not have occa sion again to refer to Camp Douglas or its officers, I will
take the present opportunity of alluding to some of them.
Colonel Lewis is the officer, par excellence, of his bat talion. I met him for the first time at Fort Kearney, as I
stated in a previous letter, and the favorable impressions
then formed have only been increased, after three months'
association with him in a subordinate capacity.   If it were
not for the fear of displeasing him, or bringing a blush to
his modest face, I would venture to mention wherein I con sider him one of the best officers, of any rank, with whom I
have served. Opportunities often make men, and it is only
for the want of an opportunity that his name is not now
familiar to the country as a prominent officer during the
war. During all that time he was serving on the frontier. I
should not do justice to my feelings if I said less of him,
and even this allusion may meet his disapprobation.
Major Benham was another to whom I became attached
on the march. For bravery, honesty and unselfishness he
cannot be excelled.   He is a little reserved to a stranger,
but a true friend when he forms an attachment, and as a
company officer, among the best in his regiment.
Captain McClintock was, perhaps, my most intimate
associate, and a very companionable gentleman, as well as
a good officer.   His charming lady, who accompanied us
through, was esteemed by every one, and every one who
esteemed her loved the lovely little Ettie, a sweet infant
daughter, who made the journey in the first half-year of her
existence.
But I must drop personalities and go on with my visit to
the Lake.  It is about eighteen miles from the city to Black
Rock, a noted landmark on the beach, near where the California road first strikes the border of the lake.  The lake
is about eighty or ninety miles in length, from north to south,
and about sixty in its greatest width from east to west.  It
contains a number of islands, that rise from the water to
mountain heights.   The most southern of them is known
as Church Island, where the herds belonging to the church,
98 
OF AMERICA.
he Prophet, are sent to graze.   Like the Dead  Sea
estine, its water is intensely salt, and no living thing
d in it.  The quantity of chloride of sodium (comalt) held in solution, is greater than in any body of
in the world.  The density of the water of the Dead
a little greater than that of Salt Lake.   A  comparat alysis of the solid corstitutents of the two is as fol
lows:
SALT LAKE.
Chloride of sodium,
Sulphate of soda,
Do. magnesium,
DEAD SEA.
Chloride of sodium,
Do.     calcium,
Do. magnesium,
Sulphate of soda,
22,282
24,580
Thus it appears that, while the Dead Sea has of solid
contents a fraction over two per cent. above that of Great
Salt Lake, the proportion of common salt in the latter is
nearly double that of the former.
Like the Dead Sea, Salt Lake has no outlet, and is constantly supplied with fresh water by several streams.
The Jordan, running from Utah Lake, in the early
summer months pours into it a body of water almost equal
to that carried by its Asiatic namesake from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea of Palestine. The Weber and Bear
rivers, to which I have before referred, also empty their
waters into Salt Lake. This large supply is not more than
sufficient to counterbalance the loss by evaporation, except
during the spring and early summer months, when the lake
sometimes overflows its borders; nor does the large quantity of fresh water constantly pouring into it lessen its saltness, but, on the contrary, adds to its density.  This is
explained as follows: all the water of the several streams
that empty into the lake have more or less of the solid contents enumerated in the above analysis, and as only a trace of
any of these passes off by evaporation, the percentage or
common salt remaining in the lake becomes grea.ter rath 
gre.t* r.:ath..*.
99
7.o, i 96
1,834.
,257.
10,390
3,gzo
10,24
1054 
THE DEAD SEA
than less, and nearly reaches the quantity contained in a
saturated solution.
Salt works have been established along the lake, and the
finest salt I ever saw is obtained simply by driving off the
water by boiling. The yield is enormously large, but can  not be as much as is claimed by those engaged in collecting
it. They represent that three barrels of water will leave
one barrel of salt; but as I have shown there is only twenty  two per cent. of all the solid contents combined, it would
not produce more than one-fifth its weight or bulk. The
water is of a greenish-blue color, and very transparent,
and along the shore there is a peculiar odor, caused by the
moisture in the air from the evaporating waters, as well as
the decay of myriads of little insects. Near the Black Rock
is the usual bathing-place, where the beach is sandy and the
bottom free from rocks or irregularities. The lake here is
very shallow, and it required me to wade a long dis tance before I was floated off my feet in the erect posture.
Being tired of wading so far, I undertook to swim, but
I  soon  discovered  that  I was  kicking  above  the
surface,  with  my head  very  much   inclined  to  as sume a lower position, and as the air did not offer re sistance sufficient for such locomotion, I had to abandon
swimming. I waded on as before, until I accomplished my
object-that is, until I could wade no further, not because
the water covered me, but because I couldn't reach the bot tom with my feet-and there I was, bobbing about on the
waves, head and neck above them, like an empty bottle.
Turning upon my back, I found less difficulty in swimming,
and when in that position, I remembered the description of
a bath in the Dead Sea by the editor of the Advocate, and
remaining perfectly passive, holding my hands up before me,
realized that I could have reclined there and read the morn ing paper with comparative ease.   I found a disposition to
roll over, face downward, but except this no inconvenience
resulted. To sink was impossible, that i3, if I lay passive
on the water. Wherever there was an abrasion of the skin
a.:martin  sensation was produced.   I have been amused
Too 
OF AMERICA.
at the experience of an English traveller, who, for experiment, opened his eyes beneath the water, and suffered very
considerable inconvenience from the smarting and flow of
tears that followed.   I will not further describe my bath.
Let the reader read Dr. Newman's book, " From Dan to
Beersheba" and he will be much better pleased with his
account of a bath in the Dead Sea than with anything I
might write, though my experience was very similar. Before
going into the lake, I took the precaution to have some
fresh water brought from a neighboring spring, with which
to wash the salty solution from my body, and soon saw
the utility of the precaution. Neglecting to include my hair
in the washing, I found it filled with a fine white powder
of salt. The bath altogether was one of the most pleasant
I ever had. The temperature of the water was delightful,
and after remaining immersed for half an hour, I left it feeling invigorated and refreshed rather than debilitated.
There seems to be a difference of opinion about the
buoyancy of the water of this remarkable lake. Captain
Burton is the only individual I have ever seen, or read
of, or heard of, who did not float on its surface, when
bathing in it, and his statement seems a little equivocal. He says he found no difficulty in sinking; neither
would we find any difficulty in sinking a stick of soft
wood for a moment in the Mississippi or North River
if one should be dropped from a pier or a boat perpendicularly to the water.   I have no idea that the body
of a man, if he jumped  on the water, would  rebound
like a rubber ball when  struck against a marble slab;
but I am very much inclined to think that if the gentleman named has five pounds of fat in his whole corpus
some part of it would float above water.
But the tendency of writers is to exaggerate the other
way; they represent the water to be more buoyant than it
is. Certainly it is remarkable enough without exaggerating
to furnish subject-matter for an interesting letter; then
why spoil the whole by overreaching possibilities.   One
writer says:  "With my hands clasped together under my/
IOI 
THE DEAD SEA
head, and my feet crossed, I floated upon the very surface of
the lake with at least one-third of my body above water.
My experience was quite different. I could not have re mained in such a position for a moment, but would have
rolled over, face downward, and if my hands were retained
behind my head it would have put my face under water.
If the weight of my body had been such as to make it more
buoyant, then there would have been still greater difficulty.
I doubt further whether cold water, under any circumstances, can hold in solution mineral constituents sufficient to
increase its density until it would float a living, healthy
human body one-third above the surface.
Nor do I believe that a person cannot drown in Salt Lake.
Knowing how to swim I found no difficulty in keeping my
head above the water, but I think if I had not been so experienced in deep water I would have found considerable
difficulty in doing so. I believe if a person should fall
from a boat, and lose the erect posture, his head, being the
heavier part, would go under, and the man drown, as his body
floated on the surface. This is merely a mater of opinion,
however, and it might be demonstrated to be erroneous.
Feeling highly gratified with the morning's experience we
started back for the city, stopping at a neat-looking little
house near by, from which was displayed a sign, reading
" Meals furnished at Seasonable Hours; " but we took only
a glass of buttermilk, and regarded it as an unseasonable
hour for our dinner, though the family were then partaking.
The house was kept by a Mormon lady whose daughter's
appearance rather attracted my companion.   As we hurried across the plain to escape rather an unusual thing at
that season-a rain-storm-with that magnificent team dash
ing along at the rate of ten miles an hour, I thought that
Major Grimes, who furnished it, ought to be QuartermasterGeneral.
Another curiosity in the vicinity of Salt Lake City is the
hot spring. It is a few miles north of the warm springs
I alluded to in my last, and situated at the base of the
same range of hills or spur of the mountains. It pours out
102 
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quite a large stream of water from an opening id the solid
rock, but a -ew feet distant from the road. Running
through a drain which has been dug to prevent the road
from being flooded, it spreads out into a pretty lake which
is a favorite resort for large numbers of wild ducks in the
fall, and in the winter it is the grand natural skating park
of Salt Lake City. Where the water escapes from the
rock the temperature of it is at least I30 degrees, and
several feet distant it was so uncomfortably hot as not to
permit me holding my hand in it for a second. I resorted
to the popular test of hot water in such springs, and put in
some eggs to boil, but as the process of coagulating was
going on rather slowly, and night approaching more rapidly,
with several bad places in the road to the city, and a demoralized driver, because he was kept out so late, I abandoned
the experiment and left my eggs for the'breakfast of the
first emigrant who should pass in the morning, if he felt
inclined to indulge in the luxury. But I fancy, if he were
a Gentile, he supposed they had been poisoned, and put
there by a Mormon, and if a Mormon, that the same
diabolical act had been done by a Gentile, and the eggs
were probably not disturbed.
A tale is told of a miner from Montana, whose love for
the saints in Utah was not of a very high order (as is the
case with miners generally), who passed the spring on his
way to the city. Before doing so, however, he concluded
to take a bath without trying the temperature of the water
in the spring itself, though he had done so in the drain a few
yards from it. A Mormon happened to be passing along
at the time, and seeing that the man was laboring
under some mistake, or crazy, went to him, kindly remarking  that he couldn't bathe there.  This aroused the
Gentile, who very indignantly responded, with sundr  oaths,
that he would do anything in that country that a Mormon
could do. He thought the man questioned his right to use
the spring, and continuing his disrobing, stepped into the
water up to his knees, to jump out again with a good deal
more agility than when he stepped in, very much to the
103 
THE DEAD SEA
amusement of the saint, and to the gratification of his feel ings of revenge for the cursing he got.   The  miner had
been informed by some friends of the warm springs, and the
luxury of a bath in them, and as that was before the days
of bathing-houses in that vicinity, he had simply mistaken
the locality.
The smell of sulphureted hydrogen could be detected
for some distance from the spring, and its action upon a
silver coin turned it black in a few minutes. The smell is
said to be particularly objectionable to some animals, and I
am told that it is often difficult to drive a horse through the
little stream that crosses the road.
This is a country of lakes, and not least among the many
to be admired for natural beauty, and that of its surroundings, is a lake in the top of the mountains. A short distance south of the'"Twin Peaks," almost on the very summit of the Wasach Mountains, is found Cotton-Wood
Lake. It is reached by a wagon road on the western slope,
which enters a canion a few miles south of Parley, and on
the east can be approached by a trail leading over the mountains from Parley's Park.   The  scenery along the western
approach is very wild and sublime. On one side of the
road are almost perpendicular walls of solid rock hundreds
of feet high, and on the other side the rushing, leaping
waters of the outlet of the lake, which are lashed into a
foam as they run over the rocks, givingit the appearance of a
stream of snow, or a glacier after it has dashed against rocks
to grind it as fine and white. Making a steep ascent along a
narrow road, until you reach an altitude of four thousand
feet above the valley, you come upon this beautiful little
lake.  The banks on the east are tall and steep, but on the
western side, for a short distance, the land is almost level
with the surface of the lake. The water is as clear as
crystal, and the trout can be seen swimming through it as
distinctly as the gold-fish in the pools of parks in eastern
cities, while the bottom is very plainly seen where it is ten
or twelve feet deep. Trout-fishing here is not so exciting as
in the rapid streams.'fhe water is still, and the fish seem to
104 
OF AMERICA.
partake of the sluggishness of their element. The hooks
must be sunk, as the trout will not come to the surface,
and then when he bites he does so as deliberately as if it were
a dainty morsel, and you can see him as he takes the bait in
his mouth and runs off. How different from the way he
bites in the rapid streams! There, as soon as the bait touches
the surface, and indeed sometimes before, he will jump
entirely out of the water and catch it, perfectly electrifying
the sportsman.
I did not fish in Cotton-Wood Lake; but a few days before my arrival at Camp Douglas, several officers made anl
excursion there, and brought away the finny tribe by the
hundreds. It was then the month of July, the reader will
remember, and they obtained snow from a bank within a few
hundred yards of the lake in which they packed the fish to
preserve them as they returned through the warm valley. If
the reader ever visits Cotton-Wood Lake in the summer,
to encamp for the night, I would advise him by all means
to go furnished with a mosquito-bar, for I think there is
more danger of being carried off bodily by the little insects
there, than in any place I have visited.
While referringto the natural phenomena of this locality,
I must mention the gorgeous sunsets that may be observed
from Camp Douglas. Salt Lake, it will be remembered, is
west of the post, and during the earlier hours of the day is
but indistinctly seen, and its surface is distinguished fromn
the land around by its dark appearance; but on a clear afternoon, as the sun is about disappearing behind it, or, apparently, in the lake, the water is lit up with a brilliancy
that makes it look like a sea of mercury. As if rising out of
the lake, the sky by the same reflection assumes a similar
appearance, and the borders of the fleecy clouds which hang
about the horizon become as brilliant as polished gold, and
constantly changing in shape as well as in the different hues
of their bright colors.  The sight fills the observer with
wonder and amazement, as he admires their beauty. The
same reflection also lights up the outlines of the mountain
islands, and after gazing intently upon the scene, I could
6
105 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
not define the termination of the water from the beginning
of the sky, nor distinguish between the shining mountains
and the shining clouds.   Italian skies and seas could not
have presented a more gorgeous sunset.
This letter concludes my description of the journey and
what I saw; in those to follow I will endeavor to tell the
reader what I have learned about one of the most remarkable
people of modern times.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE MORMON CHURCH.
A HISTORY of the Mormon Church, condense it as I might,
so as to give a tolerably clear idea of what it has been,
what it has done, and what it teaches at the present  day,  would  of itself make a book.  What I shall
write, therefore, may be regarded as merely fragmentary;
but it is a subject of too much interest, for one writing from
Utah, to pass over without some notice.
I shall endeavor to present to the reader such facts connected with the history of this strange people, and such incidents of both their inner and outward life, as have passed
under my observation, or come to my knowledge through
reliable channels.
I will discard the extravagant and unsubstantiated stories
which are constantly in the mouths of anti-Mormons, who,
from prejudice arising from a real or imaginary injury, can
see nothing in the lives or characters of individuals holding
allegiance to Brigham Young, but to despise and contemn,
and are constantly traducing them. I started for Utah with
a very superficial knowledge of the Mormons, and with my
mind made up not to prejudge them upon the mere hearsay
evidence of their enemies, but determined to see and learn
of them for myself, and not to base my opinion upon the
0o6 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
mere opinion of others. The result was that my first im pressions of them were favorable. They appeared exceedingly plausible, and in nine cases out of ten the liberal Gentile is impressed as I was, and will endeavor to cover up,
and explain away, very much that he learns from the more
experienced that is prejudicial to the characters of the leaders of the sect.   Such a  least was my experience, and I
have had many long and sharp arguments in defence of what
I supposed was an injured and abused people.
Much of their true history I was reluctant to believe, but
fact after fact has been presented so clearly before me, that
I am compelled to change the opinions first formed.   Nor
am I alone in this respect either; but I find nearly every intelligent and honest individual who has taken the trouble to
look into their iniquitous system, and at first thought of
them as I did, has been led to think of them as I do now.
I am sorry to believe that much that has been written
abusive of the Mormons, has been so colored by prejudice,
as I have before intimated, as to distort facts, and by extravagant descriptions destroy the effect which a plain statement would have upon the thoughtful reader.
Then on the other hand the extreme plausibility of the
leaders, with their apparent liberality, and their hospitable
treatment of influential strangers, cause others to state as
much less than the truth, as the first class state more. They
are led to consider them as not near so bad as they are
represented to be, and not unnaturally side with the weaker
party. They have heard extravagant abuse until they are
willing to conceal much that they must abhor as an offset.
Before referring to the churchas it exists at the present
day, I will give a brief sketch of its history from  its
origin.
Mormonism had its rise in New Hampshire in I830,
when Joseph Smith claims to have received and translated
the Book of Mormon, and organized the Church of Latter
Day Saints.  Smith declared himself to have been specially
inspired for the work, and designated bythe Almighty as the
leader of His people. He claims to have received the
107 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
revelation from God, written in mystic characters upon
plates of gold, and his translation of the inscriptions thereon
is the Mormon Bible of the present day. Missionaries were
at once sent out to proclaim the new gospel. As evidence
of their divine authority they pretended to work miracles.
Early in its history the new sect was subjected to rigid persecution, which only increased their fanaticism, and Joseph
Smith soon entertained the idea of establishing a temporal
sovereignty. The character of Smith had been notoriously
bad for years before he claimed to be the great revelator
of a new gospel.   His reputation for veracity suffered alike
with his reputation for violating the laws of the country prohibiting larceny, while almost the entire community in which
he resided regarded him as devoid of principle and honesty.
He was a visionary gold-seeker, digging everywhere for the
metal, and coveting wealth with the least possible amount of
labor that might be expended in gaining it.  The  various
doctrines to which the church now hold were submitted
and adopted from time to time, and early in its history an
important work styled "Book of Doctrines and Covenants"
was written, which is claimed to consist of revelations
received since the publication of the Book of Mormon, and
is accepted still as a rule of faith and practice, with such
modifications as it is claimed subsequent revelations have
made to its teaching.
These pretended revelations, as will be seen hereafter,
have made very radical changes in the practices of the
church, and their religious tenets seem to be as susceptible
of as different interpretations as a treaty, or the constitution
of the United States in these times.
The Church soon attempted to establish a local independent government of its own (as it has de facto in Utah at
present), but soon found itself in conflict with the lawful
authority of the land. The practices of the Mormons
were not only unlawful, but often so disgusting to the people of Illinois and Missouri as to bring about violence.
Unfortunately the passions of a mob so ruled -as to result
in the murder of Smith, the leader, in Nauvoo, Illinois, in
log 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
I844.  At the time of his death, he was in prison for vio lation of law, when the prison was forced, and the man shot
dead on the spot. John Taylor, now one of the Apostles in
Salt Lake City, narrowly escaped being killed at the same
time.  He  was a fellow-prisoner of Smith's, and a ball
passed through his clothing and lodged in his watch, which
he still preserves as a memento of the tragedy.  Such acts
are always to be deprecated. Mob violence is barbarism,
whether in the acts of a Vigilance Committee in California,
a massacre in New Orleans, or the attempt of a John
Brown to incite insurrection in a peaceable community.
Brigham Young, now the Prophet, President, Seer and
Revelator was received into the church in the second year
of its existence, and in i835 was elected President of the
"Twelve Apostles."
After the death of Joseph Smith, Sidney Rigdon, one of
his councillors, assumed the Presidency; but before he had
ruled a year he was deposed by Brigham. It appears that
no " revelation" had been recorded, providing for a successor in the event of the death of the Prophet, and Rigdon
being next highest in rank, naturally claimed the position.
As there was then no one individual to receive a revelation
that would satisfy the clashing interest of aspirants, Brigham Young proposed to show the will of God concerning
the succession by a miraculous demonstration.   So on one
occasion Brigham went into the pulpit, to preach, as he had
often done before, and upon rising before the congregation,
he assumed the appearance, manners and tone of voice of
Joseph Smith, the martyr, so perfectly as to quite electrify
the people. Whereupon it was at once conceded that the
mantle had fallen upon him, and he was by acclamation
declared to be the President of the Church. This made
poor Rigdon to be an impostor, and he was cut off and
delivered over to the buffetings of Satan. Brigham Young's
course met the disapprobation of Emma Smith, who had
been the public wife of Joseph. She contended then, as she
does now, that her husband had expressly do:lared, that at
his death his mantle would fall upon his oldest son, and he
Il9 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
become the leader in Israel. The people loved Joseph,
and revered his memory, and had it not been for the powers
of mimicry of Young, the counsel of Emma would probably have prevailed, and long ere this he would have been
a subject of Joseph II.,or more probably the Church would
long since have ceased to exist. The miraculous demonstration, as the prophet regarded it, was beyond any assurances Emma could give them of what had been the wishes of
the Prophet, and they accepted it as indisputable evidence
that a greater than Joseph willed it otherwise.
Finding their existence as a sect in jeopardy if they remained in Illinois and Missouri, they soon after the death
of Smith, sought a more congenial country.   In April i847,
the pioneer band of saints, numbering 143 men, headed by
the President, left the Missouri River for a new Zion in the
Far West. In the fall of that year they reached Salt Lake
Valley, and Brigham, from a peak of the Wasach Mountains,
saw the country, and had a vision in which he was told that
this was to be their future Zion, where the Temple of the
Lord was again to be erected never to be removed, and that
the light of the Gospel was to radiate thence to all the world.
That fall the city was laid out, and they immediately commenced preparing for the reception of the hosts of Zion who
were to follow.
Brigham Young returned to the Missouri River, and in
1848 he was confirmed by a General Conference of the
Church in the position to which he had been called by the
people on the occasion referred to. In the same year
Young returned to Salt Lake City, taking with him the
great mass of the Mormons. These people had then collected on the banks of the Missouri, opposite Council Bluffs,
preparatory to their migration to the land which Brigham
told them was to flow with milk and honey, equalled only
by the Promised Land, which Moses was allowed to look upon
but not possess. That they did not find it to be all their
imaginations pictured, I have already stated.  They endured
great hardships on the journey, and intense suffering after
their arrival. They were short of provisions, and before
1X0 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
they could cultivate the land, they lived on beetles, and grasshoppers, and such nutritious wild herbs as could be found.
They were very poorly clad, and without shelter, and a long
and dreary winter, colder than they ever before experienced,
was upon them. Was it surprising that they murmured?
But out of all their difficulties Brigham Young managed to
deliver them. As soon as it could be done the people commenced agrict.tural pursuits. But when the husbandmen
could not work, they were employed in other ways, and
snch as could not labor advantageously on any necessary
work, were made to labor on the "Bulwarks of Zion."
Nothing better proves the ability of Brigham Young as
the leader of a fanatical religious sect, and as a man of most
extraordinary resources, than the management of the migration of the Mormons, and of their affairs during the first
year of their arrival in the valley.
At that time Utah was a part of Mexico. By a treaty
between that Government and the United States, the territory
was ceded to the latter, and in I 849 the Mormons met in convention, adopted a constitution which they called "The Constitution of the State of Deseret," and applied for immediate
admission into the Union under it.  There was then no
recognized government in that country; but the year following Congress organized the present territory, and Mr. Fillmore, who was then President, appointed Brigham Young
the first Governor as well as Commissioner of Indian
Affairs.
It has ever been a fundamental idea with the Mormon
leaders, that the church and state should really be one government, however distinct they might nominally be made,
and it has been so to this date.
One would suppose, under their territorial organization,
with their President as Governor, and a legislature entirely
of the church, the Mormons would no longer continue their
quasi State government.   But nevertheless it has continued,
and on the twenty-second of January last "The  General
Assembly of the State of Deseret" memoralized Congress
for the admission of Utah into the Union, with the consti
III 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
tution adopted in I849 slightly aImended.* They evidently
foresaw the danger of Brigham's removal from office. As
a State he could always be the Governor.
Utah being in the very centre of the Indian country of the
West,  for  several  years  after  its  settlement  by  the  Mor  mons the colonies were subjected to Indian outrages.
Wherever a settlement was made the first work of the set tlers was to build a fort.
But from the organization of the territory in I85o, noth ing remarkable in the history of the saints occurred until
I857, when their usurpation of authority, and defiance of law,
as well as their hostility to officers who were not of their
faith (particularly the Judiciary), led to the withdrawal of all
* The following is an extract from a letter written by one of the most promi nent apostles to explain why the memorial was presented. The letter appears
in the Telegraph of February 28, I 867:
"In my late travels through this district, I have often been asked the  ques tion:' Why did the Legislative Assembly again memoralize Congress for the
admission of the territory into the Union as a State, after having so often done
so before and so often been rejected?' My answer has been,' We wish to do
the will of Heaven by asking for those rights and privileges which the Most
High hath vouchsafed to us in the constitution of our common country.   When
forced away from our homes in Missouri, we were commanded of the Lord to
importune for redress at the feet of the Judge, and if he heeded us not, we were
required to importune at the feet of the Governor; and if the Governor heeded
us not, then we were to importune at the feet of the President; i and if he heeded us not, then would the Lord arise and come out of his hiding-place, and in
his fury vex the nation, and in his hot displeasure, and in his fierce anger, in his
time, would cut off those wicked, unfaithful, and unjust stewards, and appoint
them their portion among hypocrites and unbelievers; even in outer darkness,
where there is weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth.'
"The foregoing instructions were given to the church in the month of December, 1833 (see Book of Covenants, third European edition, page 283, section I2). Since the date of the commandment referred to, has the nation been
vexed with a sore vexation, and is it still vexed? Have many rulers singularly
disappeared from their official stations? These questions inspire grief and sorrow in every feeling breast; so much so that I answer them not, but leave the
reader to furnish his own answer."
So our national troubles are made by this writer to be attributable to the
failure of the Government in the discharge of its duty to the Latter Day Saints,
and it is intimated that President Lincoln and others have been sent to hell for
denying to them their rights. The writer further remarks that the continued
refusal of Congress "will cause the nation to mourn more  sadly.than it ever
yet has done."
II2 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
such officers from the territory. The overt act, that brought
about the bloodless "Mormon War," was the seizure of
the records of the United States courts in the office of Judge
Styles, one of the associate Justices of the territory.   This
was done by order of the President, during the absence of
the Judge from his office, and the parties who carried out the
President's instructions also destroyed the private property
of the Judge. Soon thereafter Judge Styles withdrew from
the territory and reported the fact at Washington. Mr.
Buchanan then appointed other territorial officers in the
place of Mormons, including Governor A. Cumming to relieve Brigham Young. The Secretary of War was directed to send a sufficient body of troops with the Governor to
the territory to act as a posse comitatus in requiring the enforcement of the laws.
Nothing more was contemplated. It was not the intention of the Government to inflict upon the Mormons any
punishment for their past lawlessness, but to make them
more mindful of law in the future, by stationing this body of
troops in the territory. The commanding officer of the expedition expected no opposition to the march of his forces
into the territory, and was so fully of the impression that
they would submit quietly, that he sent an officer in advance
of the column to purchase grain in Salt Lake City for the
army upon its arrival there.
Brigham Young, however, regarded it as a hostile movement, and not only refused to sell the officer supplies, but
upon the day of his arrival in the city issued his proclamation declaring martial law, and calling out the militia to resist a "hostile force who are evidently assailing us (the
Mormons) to accomplish our destruction and overthrow."
The army marched onward, until it arrived in the vicinity
of where Fort Bridger now stands, when their supplies be.
came scant because of trains failing to come up, and the
capture of some by the Mormons, and they encamped on
Black's Fork for the winter. While there Brigham addressed a communication to the then Colonel A. Sidney Johnston (who afterward distinguished himself and lost his life
*6
1r3 
THE MORMON CHURCH.
in the rebel army), warning him to leave the territory by
the same route he entered; but in the event Colonel Johnston desired to remain over winter, he might " do so in peace
and unmolested," provided he would deposit his arms and
ammunition with the  Quartermaster-General of the territory, and "leave in the spring, or as soon as the roads
would permit him to march."  It is unnecessary to add,
that neither modest request was complied with. While the
army was approaching, the Mormons were fortifying Echo
Canon, to prevent its penetrating further into the territory.
The only act of hostility committed during the campaign,
was the destruction of two supply trains, belonging to Johnston's army. This was done by a band of horsemen, supposed to have been commanded by Porter Rockwell, who
figures conspicuously in Mormon history as one of the
Danites, or " avenging angels."
General Johnston was not acting under orders to attack
the Mormons, even if he had been so situated as to do so
advantageously, and this act of hostility would have been a
most excellent pretext for accepting war, and then and forever settling the question of Mormonism in our country, if
it had been at a season when it could have been taken advantage of. Neither the defences of Echo Canion, nor the
size of the Mormon army, were by any means the cause of it
not being. The army was short of supplies, as I have already
stated, and the severity of the winter prevented all aggressive measures.   Before the time arrived when the army
could have acted, a semi-Mormon succeeded in arranging
for an interview between Brigham Young and Governor
Cumming, in Salt Lake City, when the exceeding
plausibility of the former so favorably impressed the Governor, that he immediately communicated the result of his interview to the President, when a commission was sent out
to treat with Brigham.   He satisfied them of his loyalty, and
produced the records of the courts, which he had only stolen
and not destroyed. The diplomacy of Brigham was equal
to the occasion, and very speedily an agreement was entered into by which the command of General Johnston was
l14 
DOCTRINE, &c.
allowed to march through Salt Lake City and establish Camp
Floyd, about forty miles distant.
This large body of troops in the territory scattered hundreds of thousands of dollars throughout the country, and
when the army was withdrawn a large quantity of supplies,
with mules and wagons, were disposed of for mere nominal
sums. In some places bacon was sold at one dollar for
sacks containing a hundred pounds, when the retail price of
the article was seventy-five cents per pound.
The Mormon expedition, then, resulted in incalculable
pecuniary benefit to the people, in still further demonstation
of the ability of their leader, and in strengthening their
confidence in their cause and their ability to resist the Government, which may yet lead to blobdshed and their ruin.
I should have stated that Brigham Young yielded gracefully the nominal Governorship of the territory to Governor Cumming at the first interview they had.
Since the troops entered Utah in 1857, the Mormons have
been under but little better subjugation.  They have not
been quite so open and bold in their opposition to the Government as before, but notwithstanding there is a secret
hatred and defiance of it, so deeply rooted in them, that it
cannot be removed as long as their present system exists.
A remedy for the evil I will discuss in a future letter.
CHAPTER XV.
DOCTRINE OF THE MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY.
HAVING reviewed in the last letter the political history of
the Mormons, I now submit something concerning their
teachings and practices of the present day.
Their published articles of faith are as follows:
I. " We believe in God, the Eternal Father; and his Son
Jesus Christ, and in the Holy Ghost.
If5 
D)OCTRINE OF THE
2. "We believe that men will be punished for their own
sins, and not for Adam's transgressions.
3. "We believe that through the Atonement of Christ
all mankind may be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the Gospel.
4. " We believe these ordinances are, ISt, Faith in the
Lord Jesus; 2nd, Repentance; 3d, Baptism by immersion
for the remission of sins; 4th, Laying on of hands by the
gift of the Holy Spirit; 5th, the " Lord's Supper."
5. "We believe that man must be called of God by inspiration, and by laying on of hands from those who are
duly commissioned to preach the Gospel and administer in
the Ordinances thereof.
6. " We believe in the same organization that existed in
the primitive Church, viz: Apostles, Prophets, Pastors,
Evangelists, etc.
7. " We believe in the powers and gifts of the everlasting Gospel, viz: the Gift of Faith, discerning of Spirits,
prophecy, revelations, visions, healing, tongues, and the interpretation of tongues, wisdom, charity, brotherly love, etc.
8. "We believe the word of God recorded in the Bible;
we also believe the Word of God recorded in the Book of
Mormon, and in all other good books.
9. "We believe all that God has revealed, all that he
does now reveal, and we believe that he will reveal many
more great and important things pertaining to the Kingdom
of God and Messiah's second coming.
Io. " We believe in the literal gathering of Israel and in
the restoration of the Ten Tribes; that Zion will be established upon the Western Continent, and that Christ will
reign personally upon the earth for a thousand years; and
that the earth will be renewed and receive its paradisiacal
glory.
I I. " We believe in the literal resurrection of the body, and
that the rest of the dead live not again until the thousand
years are expired.
I2. "We  claim the privilege of worshipping Almighty
God according to the dictates of conscience unmolested, and
ii6 
MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY. 117
allow all men the same privilege, let them worship how or
when they may.
13. "We  believe in being subject to Kings,  Queens,
Presidents, Rulers, and Magistrates, in obeying, honoring
and sustaining the law.
14. "i We believe in being honest, true, chaste, temperate, benevolent, virtuous, and upright, and in doing good to
all men; indeed, we may say that we follow the admonition of Paul; we believe all things, we hope all things, we
have endured very many things and hope to be able to endure all things.  Everything lovely, virtuous, praiseworthy,
and of good report, we seek after, looking forward to the
recompense of reward; but an idle or lazy person cannot
be a Christian, neither have salvation.   He is a drone, and
destined to be stung to death, and tumbled out of the hive."
This strange admixture of doctrines, culled from the tenets
of almost every religious, as well as pagan sect, is modified
from time to time to better suit their materialistic views, increase the despotism of the church, and sanction their lustful
pleasures.
There are many very absurd doctrines now taught, which
are not warranted by the'articles I have quoted nor taught
in their original works on theology. Materialism is hinted
at in the articles; but is very plainly taught in some of
their writings as well as in their discourses.   Orson Pratt,
one of the " Twelve," a noted writer in the church, and expounder of the faith, and perhaps the smartest man among
them, in explaining their belief in this particular, is guilty of
the following irreverent and profane language, as recorded
in " The Seer," a work edited by him and published in
Liverpool:
"The Father is a material being. The substance of His
person occupies space. It has mobility, length, breadth and
thickness, like other matter. The substance of His person
cannot be in two places at the same time.   It requires time
for him to transport himself from place to place." Again he
says: " The resemblance between God and man has reter 
DOCTRINE OF'ILrE
ence to shape and figure.  Man has legs and so has Gr,d.
as it is evident from  His appearance to Abraham.   MaIl
walks with his legs, so does God.   God cannot only walk
but He can move up and down through the air without using
his legs. He can waft himself from world to world by His
self-moving power," etc.
On this same subject I might quote higher authority than
Orson Pratt. During the visit of Mr. Colfax to Salt Lake
City in I 865, he requested the President to preach a sermon
on the doctrines of the church, and Mr. Colfax went the
next day to the tabernacle to hear him. In this sermon, Mr.
Bowles reports him as having said:
" That God was a human natural person, with like flesh
and blood and passions as ourselves,only perfect in all things;
that He begot his Son Jesus in the same way children are
begotten now; that Jesus and the Father looked alike, only
the Father looked older."
Concerning the materiality of the third person in the Trinity, the writer I first cited remarks:
" The Holy Ghost is also a material substance.  It exists
in vast immeasurable quantities in all natural worlds. God
the Father, and God the Son cannot be everywhere present; indeed they cannot be in two places at the same time,
but God the Holy Spirit is omnipresent.   No one atom of
the Holy Spirit can be in two places at the same instant.
Each atom is intelligent, and like other matter has validity,
etc.   If several atoms of the Spirit should exist united
together in the form of a person, then this person of the
Holy Spirit would be subject to the same necessity as the
other two persons in the Godhead; that is, it could not be
everywhere present," etc.
They also teach that Adam is the God of this world, and
I believe they make it out in some way that he was a polygamist.
Referring to Adam, reminds me of an individual, a little
more crazy than most Mormons, who imagined himself to
be God of this world. He had had a wife who was not
much sounder in mind. It seemed to be a monomania
II8 
MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY. Ix9
with him as he was a man of some education and of certainly ordinary intelligence on most subjects, but he contended that Adams' spirit had transmigrated into his body,
and that he had been six thousand years looking for Eve,
whom he found only the year before I saw him.   Eve, it
seems, had been acting badly according to his own statement, for when he found her, he said she had become a base
prostitute but he intended to elevate her to her proper position in society.   He  declared her to be his mate; so decreed from the beginning of time, but he treated her in the
most barbarous manner, explaining that it was all intended
to give her a proper idea of her inferiority. For this reason,
or some other, Adam cut her hair short to her head, and
pulled out all her teeth.   They started together, on foot,
for the States from Salt Lake City, and as such garments
were more convenient for pedestrians, he dressed her in
men's clothes. There is no asylum in Utah for providing
for this class of citizens, and if there were, I doubt whether
they could have the benefit of it, as they were not orthodox
Mormons, but Josephites.   But this  is digressing from
the subject of this letter.  To keep the run of the doctrines
of the Mormon Church would require a close attention to
the teachings of the "Zion of the Lord," and to current
revelation; I do not propose to criticize them here as
absurd, as many  of them  are.   They  are only  questions of opinion, and with their opinions I have no disposition to meddle.  It is about their practices I have most
to say.
After the subject of doctrine, I may as well refer next to
their church government. Inthe Mormon Church there are a
greater number and variety of officials than in any other sect
with which I am familiar. But, notwithstanding this apparent
division of authority, it is probable the greatest ecclesiastical
despotism now extant. The head of the church has in his
power the lives and property of his deluded followers, and
to him all acknowledge the most profound allegiance, while
the masses virtually worship him. As he is not nominally
the only power in the church, I will proceed to explain the 
DOCTRINE OF THE
different branches of the hierarchy, which consists of the
following:
I. -The Presidency.   This consists of three individuals,
Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball and Daniel H. Wells
(the latter also Mayor of Salt Lake City, Secretary of State
of the State of Deseret, and Lieutenant-General of the militia of the territory, the act of Congress abolishing such
office to the contrary notwithstanding). They are known
respectively as the Ist, 2d and 3d presidents, and constitute
the supreme power among the Mormons, both in temporal
matters and ecclesiastical. Brigham Young is the power that
controls the presidency, and the presidency controls the people. They claim divine authority for all their acts, but are
elected by the people, the masses of whom regard the first
president as unsurpassed in wisdom by any save the Omniscient.  His mandate, or, rather, a simple expression of his
wishes, without making it a command, is undisputed authority, and is obeyed implicitly. As policy on the part of
this autocracy, it is nominally made to be responsible to the
twelve apostles; but so implicit is the faith of the apostle,
that their judgment and conscience would yield at once if
they presumed for a moment to question the wisdom of their
seer.
II. The Patriarch. This official is one who administers
solely in spiritual matters, and his duties consist in bestowing patriarchal blessings upon the faithful who desire them,
and are willing to pay for them. He will lay his reverend
hands upon the head of a saint, and bless him with houses,
and lands, and wives (number specified), and children, and
heirship to eternal glory if faithful. These blessings are
written out and signed by the Patriarch, and are highly
prized by the ignorant. Of course, if the holder of the
certificate fails to realize all that is promised therein, there
is a saving clause for the Patriarch at the conclusion of the
blessing, by which the failure is always satisfactorily explained.
John Smith, a nephew of the first prophet, now fills this
office, and, making occasional tours through the territory,
120 
MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY. 121
returns laden with chickens, ducks, homespun cloth, and
everything else which is raised or manufactured in the country, which is portable and not immediately perishable. He
is supported by such fees.
III.  The Twelve Apostles, or "special witnesses of the
name of Christ in all the world." This body ranks next
after the presidency, and have general superintendence of
missionary labor.  The apostles ordain subordinate officials
of the clerical order, baptize, administer the sacrament, and
are the principle preachers and expounders of the faith. The
names of but few ofthe" Twelve" are familiar tothe public,
because of any very conspicuous acts, and I will not enumerate them here.
IV.  " The Seventy" are chosen men for missionary labor,
and to build up the church in all her " stakes." There are
of the original " seventy" seven presidents elected, who
have authority to appoint other seventies, whose presidents
may appoint still others, and the number so multiplied ad infinitum, or to the extent of the wants of the church for such
laborers in the vineyard.
The missionaries are sent out " without purse or scrip,"
nominally. The amount of it is, their expenses are paid by
the people or by themselves, and do not come out of the
purse of the church.   On this subject I shall say more in a
letter on proselyting.
V.  The High Priests. This is a body of church officials,
who are elected to administer principally in spiritual concerns, under the immediate direction of the President.
They have authority to officiate in any office when there
are none of the properly constituted of such officers present.  They are not entirely an ecclesiastical body, as the
Bishops and the High Counicil form part of it. The unbelieving Gentiles say that they do the President's "dirty
work," but in what way, if at all, I am unable to say, except upon the authority of general rumor.
VI. The Bishops. Their duties pertain more to tempo ral matters than to ecclesiastical.  There is one appointed
to every settlement in the territory, and one to every ward 
DOCTRINE OF THE
in Salt Lake City. They are collectors of tithes, keep
the census of their several districts, and settle difficulties
existing among the saints, when they can do so, subject to
appeal to higher authority. They are supposed to administer to the spiritual wants of the people of their charge,
and visit their homes for this purpose.   In this respect
their duties are made similar to those required of Methodist class-leaders, and are discharged about as inefficiently
as the majority of our Methodist brethren discharge theirs.
Bishop Hunter is the chief of the Bishops, and is the
channel through which any matter of business the Ward
Bishop may be unable to settle to the satisfaction of the
parties, or any grievance, must be communicated to higher
authoi ity.
VII. The High Council. This consists of twelve High
Priests, with the President of the Church at its head.   It
is the highest authority to which parties may appeal when
they feel aggrieved by the decision of their Bishop or other
local authority.  The President is required to give the decision in all cases brought before the Council when the
others vote upon it. The reader may imagine how far the
opinion of one who is thought incapable to err has to do
with the vote of the Council. Its jurisdiction is confined
to temporal matters.
Litigation, which should properly come before United
States courts, which the Mormons decline to recognize
further than absolutely compelled to, is decided upon by the
High Council, and from this there is no appeal. It is true
that such cases might then be taken before a lawful court,
but no Mormon dare do such a thing.
Besides the officials of the church here enumerated'
there are several other classes, known as Elders, Priests,
Teachers, and Deacons; but as the duties of all these are
included among those of higher grades, and as they interlace and overlap each other, so I will not occupy more
space in referring to them.
It will be seen by the foregoing, that the church is virtually a State organization as much as an ecclesiastical, but
122 
MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY. I23
it would not be in keeping with the pretended liberality of the
church (which I may say is in reality the most illiberal and
despotic in the world), to have it appear that the people are
governed in their temporal affairs by a church which is governed by one man. So the temporal government is made
nominally  distinct.   Brigham  Young  being deposed  as
Governor of the Territory, is still respected as the Governor of the State of Deseret.   But no such organization
will make the church other than a temporal sovereignty.
The President is also the Governor, the High Council is
the Supreme Court, and the Bishops the Magistrates or
Police Judges.
There are United States territorial officers in Utah, but
they are almost impotent to enforce the laws. A caserequiring trial by jury would necessitate the impanelling of a jury
of Mormons, and under no circumstances would they decide contrary to the teaching of the church, and under no
circumstances would a Mormon apply to a United States
judge for redress for any grievance, if indeed they could consider any outrage a grievance, after it had been adjudicated
by their highest tribunal.
Concerning the ridiculous absurdities of their theology, as
well as their church government, I have nothing further to
say. Let the reader judge of them from what I have already
written. I am not a theologian, and as to religious views, they
are as much entitled to their opinions as I am to mines
dissimilar as they are. But allowing them the fullest liberty in this respect, they cannot be permitted to disregard decency and violate law, without being held up to public opprobrium; and if they persist, and other measures fail to
remove the great evil, then the strong arm of the military
power of the Government must be stretched forth; but
God forbid that such should ever become necessary.
The one great objectionable feature of Mormonism is
polygamy-a system of modern introduction into the church,
which is as degrading as it is criminal to all who indulge in
it. It is a relic of barbarism, that cannot exist in a civilized
and refined community, and to the Mormon Church is the 
DOCTRINE OF THE
mysterious handwriting upon the wall which tells too plainly
the fate of the sect.
Polygamy is not claimed to be a privilege allowed the
faithful, but a religious duty enjoined by a divine revelation
to Joseph Smith in I843.  Strange as it may seem this duty
was not taught to the faithful until nine years after Smith
claimed to have received the revelation.  It was first pro mulgated by Brigham Young, and he bungled in getting it
before the people.   He admits that the original draft of the
revelation, as transcribed from the inspired (?) lips of the
Prophet, was destroyed by Emma, the wife of Joseph, but
fortunately for-posterity a certain Bishop, who had been intimate with Smith, had previously borrowed the document,
and while in his possession a copy was taken, so the malice
of Emma availed her nothing. This copy is Brigham's
authority.   A  profane writer, the editor of the Salt Lake
7elegraph, refers to polygamy as a doctrine as precious to
the Mormons as was "that of a Redeemer born to the
Apostles of old;" but notwithstanding its importance it
was withheld from the church these nine years, while Brigham claims to have had it in his possession for several.
But he says " everything must come in its time, as there is
a time for everything," and in the fullness of time" it was
made known. When first announced, he admitted that
some, who could be trusted with the secret, had been previously let into it, and had enjoyed its privileges.   With
the announcement of polygamy began the first serious
trouble in the church.   The Smith family, who had regarded Brigham with jealousy since he first held the position
claimed by the son of the first prophet, made this the pretext
for organizing a faction, which they claim to be the true
church of Latter Day Saints. They deny positively and
emphatically the reception of a revelation by Smith enjoining polygamv.   The controversy so far is rather damaging
to both parties.  Brigham, and the polygamists generally
claiming, not only that Smith was authorized to announce
it as a doctrine of the church, but that he practiced it himself. On the other hand the Josephites, or anti-polyga
124
I 
MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY. 125
mists, point triumphantly to an official publication in the Mormon Journal at Nauvoo, dated February I, I 844 (the year
in which Smith was killed).  It reads as follows:
" NOTICE:
"As we have already been credibly informed that an
Elder of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints,
by the name of Hiram Brown, has been preaching polygamy, and other false anid corrupt doctrines, in the Count,
of Lapier and State of Michigan:
"This is to notify him, and the church in general, that
he has been cut off from the church for his iniquity, and he
is further notified to appear at the Special Conference on
the 6th of April next to answer to these charges.
"JOSEPH SMITH,
" HYRAM SMITH,
"Presidents of the Church."*
Reasoning upon the presumption that Smith was an honest and truthful man (if it is admissible to suppose such a
case in the face of the light of history, which makes him
a base impostor), Brigham Young must have been deceived,
or is himself a deceiver, in attributing to Smith what be hail
pronounced false and corrupt.    Or take the other horn of
the dilemma, and believe Brigham Young, then Smith, hi.
great prototype, must have been a base hypocrite and deceiver,
and certainly not one who would be ordained of Heaven 
establish a kingdom of righteousness upon the earth.
On the same subject, a few months later, in the same
year, a bull from Hyram, the second President, seems to have
been published for the benefit of a certain community iii
which this "false and corrupt doctrine" had been taught.
This reads as follows:
"NAUVOO, I1ll., March 15, I844
"To the Brethren of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter
*  Times and Seasons, vol. 5, p' 423, 
DOCTRINE OF THE
Day Saints, living on China Creek, in Hancock County,
greeting:  "Whereas, Brother Richard Hewitt has called on me today, to know my views concerning some doctrines that are
preached in your place, and states to me that some of your
Elders say that a man having a certain priesthood may have as
many wives as he pleases, and that that doctrine is taught
here; I say unto you that man preaches false doctrine, for
there is no such doctrine taught here, neither is there any
such thing practiced here; and any man that is found teaching privately or publicly any such doctrine, is culpable, and
will stand a chance of being brought before the High Council, and lose his license and membership also: therefore he
had better beware what he is about.
" HYRAM SMITH."*
John Taylor, one of the apostles (who now, by the way,
is the husband of six wives), in i850o, only two years before
Brigham announced the doctrine, when he admitted that it
had been in his possession for some time, and known to
such as should know it, declares when on a mission to
France very positively against polygamy, as a doctrine not
taught or recognized by the church. Mr. Hyde, in his work
on the Mormons, says that "Taylor had four wives wrangling and quarrelling at Utah, and was paying attentions to
a girl at Jersey, Channel Islands, at the very moment he
uttered these wilful, intentional falsehoods!"
In England, the rumor of polygamy being taught in
America, endangosed the success of the cause in that
country, as elsewhere in Europe, when Parley Pratt, to
whom I have before referred as being murdered for running
off with the wife of another man, thus publicly denounces
it in a General Conference of all the European Churches
in 1846: "Such a doctrine is not held, known, or practiced as a principle of the Latter Day Saints. It is but an
* Times and Seasons, vol. 5, p. 477,
I
X26
I 
MORMON CHURCH.-POLYGAMY.
other name for whoredom, and is as foreign from the real
principles of the church as the devil is from God, or as
sectarianism is from Christianity."*
Mormonism then is not necessarily polygamy-at least
it was not in its early history.   The church existed for
twenty years without the practice being known to the laity
as an authorized one, and as I have given the opinions of
the most prominent of the clergy on the subject, I propose
now to notice how it is treated in their works.
It is a singular fact that the only reference the Mormons
make to the Bible as a guide in life, or use its teachings in
their arguments, is when they try to defend polygamy.
The precedents established by Abraham, David, and Solomon, referred to in the Old Testament, viewed entirely in
the abstract, and the pretended revelation to Joseph Smith,
are the only authorities claimed for their acts.
Both the Book of Mormon and the Book of Doctrines
and Covenants expressly condemn polygamy, and a more positive condemnation of it we could find nowhere. Let the
reader judge for himself from the following quotations:  "And it came to pass that the people of Nephi, under
the reign of the second king, began to grow hard in their
hearts, and indulged themselves somewhat in wicked practices, such as like unto David of old, desiring many wives
and concubines, and also Solomon his son."
"The word of God burdens me because of your grosser
crimes. For beho'ld, thus saith the Lord, this people begin
to wax in iniquity; they understand not the Scriptures, for
they seek to excuse themselves in committing whoredoms,
because of the things which were written concerning
David, and Solomon his son. Behold David and Solomon
truly had many wives and concubines, Which thing was
abominable before me, saith the Lord; wherefore, thus saith
the Lord, I have led this people out of the land of Jerusalem, by the power of mine arm, that I might raise up a
righteous branch from the fruits of the loins of Joseph,
* Millennial Star, vol. 6, p. 22.
127 
I)OCTRINE OF THE
wherefore, I the Lord God will not suffer that this people
shall be like unto them of old. Wherefore, my brethren,
hear me, and harken to the word of the Lord, for there
shall not any man among you have save one 7vie, and concubines he shall have none, for I, the Lord God, delightetb
in the chastity of women.   And whoredoms are an abomination before me; thus saith the Lord."*
Again:
"Behold the Lamanites, your brethren, whom ye hate
because of their filthiness, and the cursing that have come
upon their skins, are more righteous than you; for they
have not forgotten the commandment of the Lord, which
was given unto our fathers, that they should have save one
wife; and concubines they should have none, and there
should not whoredom be committed among them."t
To give force and applicability to these quotations, the
teachings of the book, as if to prevent the use of the argument that such teachings were intended only for the nations to whom  they were directly given, says that " the
Lord speaketh unto one nation like unto another, to prove
that he is an unchangeable God."T
The Book of Doctrines and Covenants the  Mormons
believe to be as much an inspired work as the Book of Mormon, and to hold to it the same relation that Christians coiisider the New Testament to have to the Old. This book
is equally as explicit on polygamy.   It is represented to coiisist of the later revelations. Hear what it has to say: ~
" Thou shalt love thy wife with all thy heart, and cleave
unto her and none else, and he that looketh upon a woman to
lust after her shall deny the faith, and shall not have the
spirit, and if he repents not shall be cast out. 11
" And again I say unto yon that whoso forbids to marry
*Book of Mormon, pp. ii6 and  I8.
t Ibid. p. 2 I 9.
I Book of Mormon, p. 107.
~ Book of Mormon, p. 107.
lBook of Doctrines and Covenants, p. 124.
128 
MORMON CHURCH. -POLYGAMY. I129
is not ordained of God; for marriage is ordained of God
unto man: wherefore it is lawful that he should have one
wife, and they twain shall be one flesh, and all this that the
earth might answer the end of its creation, and that it might
be filled with the measure of man according to his creation.*
The most remarkable and explicit of all authority on the
subject is contained in an appendix to the Book of Doctrines
and Covenants, which was published after the date of the
pretended revelation authorizing polygamy, and the quotation
itself purports to be a revelation, strange as it may seem, received about the time of the one entirely contradicting it.
It reads as follows:
"Marriage should be celebrated with prayer and thanksgiving, and at the solemnization the persons to be married
standing together, etc., he (the person officiating) shall say,
calling each by their names,' you do mutually agree to be
each other's companions, husband and wife, observing the
legal rights belonging to this condition, that is, keeping
yourselves whollyfor each andfrom allothers during your lives,
and when they shall have answered,' yes,' he shall pronounce
them husband and wife, in the name of the Lord Jesus
Christ, by virtue of the laws of the country (which prohibit
polygamy) and by authority vested in him."
"Inasmuch as this church of Christ has been reproached
with the crime of fornication and polygamy, we declare that
we believe that one man should have one wife, and one woman
but one husband, except in case of death, when either is at
liberty to marry again."t
I have already quoted from the Book of Mormon to show
the universality of the application of its precepts to the
whole church. Then we have in their New Testament a
passage enjoining obedience to such teachings as hadalready
been received, which reads:  "Thou shalt take the things which thou hast receivea
*Ibid. p. zi8.
t Book of Doctrines and Covenants, pp. 330, 33x.
7. 
DOCTRINE OF THE
which have been given unto thee in my scriptures, for a law,
to be my law, to govern my church, and he that doeth
according to these things shall be saved, and he that doeth
them not shall be damned, if he continues."*
The teachings of their scriptures on the subject of polgyamy I have shown to be emphatic. Now let the reader consider these in connection with the late revelation on the
subject of polygamy-which is too long to be inserted here,
but more particularly with the following paragraph in it:
" For all these having this law (the law requiring polygamy) revealed unto them, must obey the same, for behold I reveal unto you a new and everlasting covenant, and if ye
abide not that covenant ye are damned."
By the Book of Doctrines and Covenants the saints are
required to obey its teachings, and those of the Book of
Mormon (and these prohibit polygamy), or they will be damned, and by this new revelation they are required to do exactly the opposite, or they will be damned. On this subject they would appear as in a strait betwixt two.
There is another paragraph in this remarkable revelation
which must be exceedingly comforting to the married saints,
who believe in it as divine, and it is surprising that an unmarried man among the faithful remains in Utah.         I suppose, however, it is intended to apply only to those who
have duplicated their wives, though by the letter of the revelation, the monogamists may claim its benefits also. It
reads as follows: "Verily, verily, I say unto you, if a man marry a wife, according to my word, and they are sealed by the Holy Spirit
of promise, according to my appointment, she shall commit any
sin or transgression of the new and everlasting covenant whatever, and all manner of blasphemies, and if he commit no
murder, wherein they shed innocent blood, yet they shall come
forth in the first resurrection, and enter into their exaltation," etc.
Here then the saints have a carte blanche from the Almighty
*lbid. p. 107.
13o 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
to become adulterers, rogues, liars, and blasphemers, and
finally "enter into their exaltation," upon condition that
they will "marry a wife according to covenant." The condition is certainly a very easy one to comply with, as the
majority of all Christendom are marrying without expecting
any such benefits. The number of each sex in Utah is
about equal, and a general application of the revelation, and
not confine it to polygamists, would be very effectual, I
should think, in stopping the practice, particularly if its benefits were extended to women, who, poor creatures, are de
pendent upon their husbands for salvation, as they believe.
CHAP. XVI.
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
IT is far from my purpose to enter into any argument
against a practice so unnatural, so degrading, and so abhorrent to the better feelings of the refined of all Christian nations, as polygamy is.   Nothing that I might write, in the
way of argument, would benefit the masses of this infatuated
people, if circulated amongst them, which it never would
be; but it is to enlighten the public that they may understand the abominations that exist, that I write. That polygamy was strongly reprehended in the early history of the
church they have been taught by some of their own people,
who now form the sect of Josephites, and many of the older
Mormons knew such to have been the case; but so great is
their delusion, that they blindly adhere to the teachings of
Brigham Young, however inconsistent they may be.
Motives of policy, combined with a desire for the gratification of the baser passions and lusts, were most unquesiionably concerned with the prophet who first authorized
and practiced polygamy, and whether that prophet was
I31 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
Joseph  Smith or Brigham Young, it matters not.    The
existence of the sect seemed to depend upon it.   Twenty-oneyears' experience had settled that question. Proselyting would not make the sect as numerous as the dreams of
its founders would have it. Those who became proselytes,
through honest motives, were liable to apostatize when they
saw their error; but if the church should be built of the
progeny of those who remained faithful, their allegiance to
it would be stronger. We all know the effect of early education upon the religious status of our lives.   Moreover
their children could be kept in more complete ignorance of
everything outside of Mormonism, which is another desirablesconsideration. With the impure and lustful, neither
such practical arguments as this, or a revelation enjoining it
as a duty, with the promise of increased happiness in the
eternal world, were necessary to their acceptance of the new
doctrine.   For society to tolerate their licentiousness was
sufficient. But a more powerful influence must operate
upon the poor deluded woman to induce her voluntarily to
live in a state so unnatural, and so degrading. The revelation meets that end.   It both promises reward and threatens
punishment.    Marriage, by it, is made essential to happiness
in heaven. It is a part of their theology that an unmarried
woman can enter there only in a menial capacity to those
more highly favored, and to such it is not even represented
as that desirable place which the most contracted views
of any Christian would regard it to be.
Celibacy in man is not represented to be so punished,
though it is greatly deprecated, and his glory in the eternal
world, it is declared, will be proportionate with the number of
wives he may have been the means of introducing there, and
the number of his children will constitute the size of his
eternal kingdom.    Hence  the importance  of multiplying
wives.
Not only is increased glory held up to women, who will
marry, but to do so is a paramount duty, enjoined by the
great head of the Church. Very many simple, confiding;
honest women are by such arguments induced to enter into
132 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
polygamy, and render their lives miserable with the hope of
receiving the reward promised for such sacrifices. Is it not
natural and beautiful for woman to be influenced by just such
motives?  The occupants of nuns' cloisters all over Christendom enter their seclusion for the opposite mode of life,
with not dissimilar convictions of duty from those which
actuate the more sincere of the Mormon women, when they
become the second, third or twentieth wife. But in addition to the conviction of duty, and greater security which
prompts the nun in her course, the Mormon woman is
driven to it as the only possible way of securing the glory
to which she aspires.
Upon what other reasonable hypothesis can we account
for their acts. Certainly the Mormon woman knows that
it is foreign to her nature to be made happy in such relations, and all, of both sexes, who have observed the workings of polygamy, know the tendency is to, and that it does,
degrade woman. The female Mormon is early taught that
she is the inferior of man in everything, and she aspires to
be his equal in nothing. She becomes a wife, knowing that
she is to be made a servant, rather than a companion and
helpmate, and the true relations of the connubial state are
entirely perverted.
At present I have no doubt wives become such of their
own accord, with the influences to which I have referred
operating when such are necessary; but there is pretty
strong evidence that in the earlier history of polygamy
women were compelled to marry. Judge Cradlebaugh told
me that when he was United States Judge in Utah, in 1858,
he had the most indisputable evidence that in one-of the
southern settlements of that territory, on one occasion,
forty young girls were confined together in a house, and required to select husbands before they were released. The
affidavits of some of them were parts of the evidence.
Affection on the part of man is not made the foundation
-the first step toward even a contemplation-of marriage,
as it should be, but he enters into it after being somewhat
attracted for mere expediency; and not to attribute to him
133 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
baser motives, which I leave to the imagination of the
reader, to discharge what he believes a religious duty, without a thought of the holy and intimate relationship which
should exist between husband and wife.
The woman is taken that she may become the mother of
his children, and the church benefited by her progeny,
and she, from the fact of being a wife, is to have her
eternal glory increased. Thus the husband's discharge of
duty is also a great act of magnanimity, which is to redound to his future happiness.   This is the most favorable
construction that can be put on the motives of a Mormon
polygamist.
That woman is degraded by polygamy, is a fact of which
I have had the most unquestionable evidence, in my own
observation, and from the reliable testimony of others, who
have had better opportunities of witnessing the practical
workings of their iniquitous system.
The polygamous wife of a Mormon is rendered unhappy
by all manner of jealousies incident to her life. The piety
and affection of a Sarah could not restrain her feelings
under such circumstances, and the Mormon wife, with
Hagars, and Ishmaels, and Isaacs, often multiplied, could
hardly be expected to.  But in addition to these natural
causes of discontent, arise the unavoidable trials that grow
out of her debased situation, in being regarded and treated
as the inferior of man-the "weaker vessel" in everything.  Abraham loved Sarah, whatever may have been his
feelings toward Hagar, but where is the Mormon who really
loves his wife?
There is a class of "celestial wives," consisting of
women who are sealed as spiritual wives for eternity only.
They are not supposed to be regarded or treated as wives
in this life, but are married to secure to themselves greater
happiness in heaven.   Brigham Young has a number of
this class, in addition to his eighteen or twenty terrestrial
wives.  The "sealed wives" are to have the same privileges in heaven as if they had been bona fide wives on
earth. Indeed, unless a wife is sealed to her husband for
134 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
eternity, she loses all claim to exaltation in glory. Then
there is marrying for time, and sealing for eternity, and
either may exist without the other. A woman may have a
pretty good fellow for a husband, so far as his social relations with her here are concerned; but she may be a little
dubious about his standing in the celestial world, hence she
becomes " sealed" to Brigham Young or Heber C. Kimball, or to the late Joseph the Prophet, by getting some one
to act as his proxy.   Such a course I should think would
excite jealousy on the part of the earthly husband, if the
man's esteem for his wife (for I cannot admit the existence of a stronger feeling) is sufficient to render him capable of feeling jealous.   Only those who are "sealed," I
suppose) know all the privileges connected with the relation
here, and Mr. Hyde  seems to doubt the chastity of such,
as he says in his work, " when a woman sinks low enough
to prefer another man for her pseudo-eternal husband, she
is certainly sunk low enough to sin in deed as well as in
thought."
Marriage to a first wife is comparatively a very trifling
affair, and the ceremony may be performed by an Elder,
Deacon, Priest, Bishop, or any other churchofficial-and
their name is legion-after a mutual agreement between the
interested parties, as in Christian communities. But this is
only marrying.   If the parties wish to be "sealed," another, and what is regarded as a more sacred and spiritual service, is required. Formerly this was performed only by the
President, and must take place before the altar in the Endowment House. A press of business in that line caused
Brigham to delegate to Heber C., his first colleague, this
duty.
It is not quite so simple for a saint to become a polygamist as the terrestrial husband of a first wife. The second,
and all suosequent marriages, must be performed by the
President before the altar. The several necessary preliminary steps are as follows:
The man must make known to the President his desire
to marry a particular lady. Then the President pretends to
I35 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
ascertain the will of God concerning the contemplated
marriage.  If it is agreeable, the man is then authorized to
marry again. Next he communicates with the parents of
the lady, and they being willing, he then consults the lady
herself.   I think if I were a young lady I would prefer
taking part a little earlier in the action.  The finale of the
preliminaries is to obtain the consent of the first wife, when
the three go together to the Endowment House, and all
participate in the ceremony.
If the first wife withholds her consent, as she has a re cognized right to do, the husband may submit the case to
the President, when the wife is summoned before him
to make known her objections.  If they are not strong or
tangible, they are overruled as being capricious, and the
man is married with the omission of the part provided
for the first wife in the ceremony.
Cases sometimes occur where the first wife is capable of
interposing very serious obstacles, when the difficulty can be
remedied only by divorce, which is easily obtained as I shall
hereafter show, or by causing the wife to waive her objections through fear, or because of other influences that
may be brought to bear. I will give an example of this
kind. A Mormon residing in Salt Lake City, having already
one wife, desired to add to the number, and had selected
the widow of a brother, who had died a few years before, to
share his connubial relations with the other wife. She objected, however, not to his marrying again, but to the woman
he wanted to marry, and proved herself to be a good Mormon by offering to select for him another who would be
more congenial than the sister-in-law.  Rather than submit
the case to the President he yielded, and accepted the choice
of the wif, a buxom young girl, and soon the three were
made one flesh.
But the husband appeared to prefer a particular wife rather
than a mere multiplication of them, and the last marriage
proved to be rather an unhappy one; he still longed for the
brother's widow. The first wife remained inexorable, and
as a dernier resort he appealed to the president. The wife
i36 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
number one was then brought up to state her objections. -She
did so in a very business-like or lawyer-like way, and among
other things specified that her faith in the doctrine of polygamy was not shaken, for she had only a short time before
consented to her husband marrying a second wife, in order
that his kingdom might be increased, and would consent to
his marrying a third for a similar purpose; but the woman
he wished to marry was old, had already been a wife without
having borne children, hence the probability was that the
great end of marriage, the multiplication of the race, would
not be subserved. A more powerful argument could not
have been submitted to the president, and he dare not overrule
it (if he dared not do anything). The Saint was a friend of
Brigham, and he wanted to accommodate him, therefore he
divorced the two wives the man had already, and married
him to the woman of his choice. *
Polygamy in its best phases and surroundings is bad enough,
but the marrying of relatives and incest as practised in
Utah is most abominable and disgraceful.
Marrying several members of the same family relationship is by no means uncommon. For several sisters to be
wives of one man, and mothers and daughters also, are of
frequent occurrences.  One of the principal merchants of
Salt Lake City married three sisters all of whom are still
living.  But one of the most disgraceful cases of incest I
have seen recorded was the marriage of a well known individual to his half sister.  This is an indisputable fact.  She
lived in her brother's family for several months, generally
regarded as one of the wives of Brigham Young, but when
about giving birth to her first child she announced to her
brother's other wives (for he had two others) that he was
* In this case, as in all others that I may cite in illustration of the customs
and lives of the Mormons, I have the names of the parties referred to; but as
the mention of them in no instance would add to the interest of the narrative,
and in some cases would cause an unwarranted mortification to friends ofthe
parties, whom I respect, if these letters should fall into their hands, I withhold
them.
*'7
13'7 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
the father of her child, the announcement quite surprised the
household, as well as the community, and was for a time
the subject of gossip, but as the woman had been married
bythe president it was regarded as above suspicion of wrong
For several years she continued to live with her half-brother bearing other children by him, and no effort was then
made to conceal the double relationship. Her mother was
also the mother of her husband, living in the family; and
finally her treatment by her brother-husband became so cruel
that she left his house and sought refuge at Camp Douglas,
and afterward with her mother went back to the States
with a company of Josephites. Another shocking feature
in this case was the brother and husband's charge of a want
of chastity in her relations to other men.
I know of one instance of a Mormon proposing to marry a
widow lady, her daughter of sixteen, and a woman she had as a
servant, and to bind himself to marry a younger daughter as
soon as she was of marriageable age. The proposition being
declined, he made a bold attempt to obtain the servant alone;
but he failed in this also, not without making a rather
unusual effort however, and the dernier resort, which terminated his unsuccessful suit, was the promise that if the
woman would have him he would give her the best
hog in his stye, which she might sell, and use the
money as she pleased.   Here is an example for the benefit
of young ladies in the States as to the appreciation of their
sex in Utah, one of them being regarded as about the
equivalent of a hog. The individual was about sixty years
of age, and had a son of twenty, who subsequently sought
and obtained the hand of the maid. Taking the father's
age as the maximum of marriageable years, while the minimum is fourteen for girls, and sixteen for boys, we have quite
a long period when parties are in the market as husbands or
wives.
As I have before remarked, the women are not required
to marry a particular individual, or indeed to marry at all,
if they are willing to risk the consequences; but they are
often "counselled" to do so.   The influence of counsel
138 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
the Mormons too well understand. With the more timid
it amounts to a command. An intelligent lady who was a
member of the Mormon church until she became disgusted
with its abominations, informed me that four years ago she
was repeatedly "counselled" to marry against her wishes,
and on more than one occasion her bishop had been so kind
as to name the individual he "counselled" her to marry.
I have heard of one instance of the man and woman
both being required to marry, on the grounds that they had
previously agreed to do so, and afterwards flew the track.
A saint who had one wife already, was attracted by a young
woman in Liverpool, when on a mission there, and promised
to marry her; but it could not be consummated in England,
where the laws against bigamy are rigidly enforced, and as
they had to be separated, the man placed to the credit of the
woman in the emigration office the cost of her transportation to Salt Lake. For some cause she did not come over
that year, but came afterwards.   Time and distance has a
wonderful effect in cooling the ardor of lovers, and when
there is no love, but only attraction, indifference is likely
soon to result. Such was the case with our Elder and his
espoused, and by mutual consent the match was regarded
as broken. Some time afterwards Brigham learned of the
circumstances, and the woman was required to become the
third wife of the former missionary. I did not learn of any
criminal intimacy existing to cause the compulsory marriage, which indeed was as much so on one party as on the
other.
It is not uncommon for a woman, who is the lawful wife
of a Gentile, to leave her husband, and live as a wife of a
Mormon. Brigham Young has a woman in his harem who
is the wife of a gentleman in Boston, and Parley Pratt,
once one of the most prominent apostles, was shot and
killed by an enraged husband for taking his wife from California to Salt Lake City, and there marrying her.   The
little boy who brought me [mesh water to wash the briny
solution from my body, at the time of my bath in the lake,
*l)oke very affectionately of his father in New Jersey, when
139 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
his mother was living with a man in Salt Lake city. Such
cases are numerous.
Bishops are often appealed to by men and women to obtain for them husbands or wives, and they are exceedingly
accommodating in this way. The official will undertake
the task, and go to work in as business-like way as he would
to negotiate a loan, and perhaps bring the parties together,
on the occasion of the marriage ceremony, for the first
time in their lives.   I think if I were a Mormon  I would
about as soon advertise in the New York Herald.
I recently heard of a rather hurried union that took place
a few years ago in high life ill the mnetropolis of Mormondom. One evening, at the house of a prominent man inthe
church, a small company had assembled, including his son
and quite an estimable young lady.   After tea, the two
happened to be sitting together on a sofa, when the thoughtful parent approached, and in a very blunt way, as he is in
the habit of doing things, remarked,  "Well, William,
Mary is a good girl and will make you a good wife; " and
to Mary he said, "Now Mary, you can't find a better man
for a husband than William; so stand up here, both of you,
and let me marry you." The lady was quite shocked, and
at first demurred; but after a little conversation between
the interested, they concluded that the father was the best
judge in such matters, and when the company separated that
evening they were man and wife.
Those who are familiar with the cost of a lady's wardrobe in New York, and other incidental expenses attending
their movements in society, may suppose that with the more
prominent and wealthy Mormons at least, the expense of
keeping several women in a way to sustain the position they
hold, would be considerable; but such is by no means the
case.  The very large majority of Mormon wives are selfsupporting, and required to be so. There is an exception
in the household of the President.   His wives and daughters are not required to labor to earn money, but they attend to all their domestic concerns, and weave cloth for
their own use, which duties are quite sufficient to keep in
140 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
their minds a lively sense of their subordination, and at the
same time save their husband and father numerous little
millinery and dress-making bills, servants' wages, etc.
With the families of most other church officials it is different. The wives of the second President, Mr. Kimball,
are publicly known as dress-makers, milliners, etc., and the
elder of them openly speak of having been no expense to
their husbands since they left Nauvoo.   That the wives
of the apostles labor for what they can earn I have evidence
in a pair of gloves one of them made for me, and she
seemed very glad to accept the patronage of a Gentile,
though the President is decidedly opposed to reciprocating
such business transactions, and cautions his people against
trading with Gentiles.
The majority of polygamists furnish their wives with
certain necessary articles, such as rations of flour and meat,
with wood, house-room and shoes, and they are expected
to purchase with their own earnings all additional articles
They spin and weave their own cloth. A laboring man
will, if possible, have a Danish woman as one of his wives,
as they are usually good weavers, and can assist the others
in making their cloth, etc.
So it may be inferred that polygamy, under the ]Brigham
Young regime is not necessarily an expensive institution
Indeed if a man has three or four thrifty women to work for
him he may find them pecuniarily profitable.
Very many of the women who marry polygamists accept
their state from the beginning as a necessary trial, and enter
it with a very commendable Christian fortitude, determined
to bear their afflictions for the glory that is to follow.   Mr
Bowles, in his work "Across the Continent," remarks that
he met a sweet, gentle, amiable woman, with whom he
conversed about her life as one of the wives of a polygamist, when she remarked, "That the Lord Jesus has laid a
great trial on me, but I mean to bear it for His sake, and
for the glory He will give me in His kingdom."   What
beautiful Christian sentiment is contained in the remniark ot
this poor, misguided, but sincere woman.   More highly
141 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
favored Christians might learn a lesson of true piety and
resignation from it.
How numerous this class of women are I can form no
idea.   It is rarely the case that one is so situated that she
dare converse on the subject with a Gentile.   Such meek ness, I imagine, is not the rule, and only here and there you
find those sweet, simple, amiable dispositions, that are more
divine than human, whether in an honest member of a cor rupt sect, or the angel-like wife of a Christian missionary
doing good to the destitute and suffering around her. The
tendency of Mormonism without polygamy is not to en courage such piety, and with polygamy it is to root it out,
and even destroy the natural gentler traits of character.
Jealousy is the one great cause of unhappiness among
the wives of a polygamist.   There are other incidental
causes constantly arising, sufficient in themselves to mar
the happiness of an angel on earth, but jealousy is the
worm that gnaws at the vitals of their social life.   Often
it exists to such an extent that the several wives of a Mormon have to be furnished separate quarters, and in some
instances they are furnished homes in different parts of the
country.   One  individual I know has his wives separated
about thirty miles, and another keeps one wife eighty
miles from the other four. Mr. Greeley mentions, in his
lecture on the Mormons, one family where two or more
wives lived together in the same house, and would riot
speak to each other.
The first wife is almost universally regarded by the husband with more favor than the others, which immediately
gives rise to that dreaded passion, and at an early day she
secures the ill-will of her "sisters."  This favoritism may
be observed in Brigham's conduct toward Amelia, his last
wife, and from him down through all the gradations of polygamists. The first wife, more than intermediate ones, is
jealous of attentions to the last; but in this respect there is
no great difference between them, they all unite in the feeling. A lady not long ago informed me that she had visited a house in the city where there were three wives. The
t42 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
husband was absent at the time, and the three together entertained her apparently very harmoniously, but when the
husband came in, the last wife, certainly in bad taste, went
and sat on his knee.  This so displeased the others, that they
immediately left the room with their guest sitting there.
It is not uncommon for a second, third or fourth wife to
be confined in child-bed, without the first manifesting the
slightest interest in her case. At first blush it may seem very
unnatural for a woman to be devoid of sympathy under such
circumstances.   But it must also be unnatural for her to
feel much pleased when she considers the fact of her husband being the father of a child which is not her own.
The unpleasant feeling existing between wives is not confined to them, but a want of congeniality between husband
and wife is most marked. This naturally grows out of the
degradation in which woman is held, to which I have before
alluded. The belief in their systems, whether a man becomes a polygamist or not, is almost certain to result in
improper treatment of his wife, as he is taught to regard
woman in a very different light from that in which she is
regarded in Christian communities. I know of one case
where this change took place. An intelligent man who became a Mormon after having lived many years as an affectionate and indulgent husband, always conferring with his
wife in all his plans in life, and I have no doubt profitingby
her advice. They were English, and in Liverpool he associated a good deal with the clergy, and through them was
led to a change in his views, as to the relation that should
exist between husband and wife. Accordingly, one day he
instructed the wife as to how she should act in the future.
She was not to presume, thereafter, to advise or counsel
him in anything, nor even suggest a thing that might influence his judgment; particularly if she held different views
from himself; that if he should contemplate marrying
other women she was not to oppose him in any way, but
quietly to submit. This was exactly the opposite to what
he seemed to desire up to the moment of the conversation,
and the change was to be as sudden as it was radical.
I43 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY
I have before spoken of the resignation and submission
with which wives accept their lot, and of the causes of their
unhappiness, but it is not common for them to admit that
polygamy is the real cause of their discontent.  I cited one
case where the woman was willing to submit to it all in a
good Christian spirit; but )ccasionally one is found who
talks plainly of her situation. One of the wives of an apos tle has frequently been heard to reproach herself for present
unhappiness.   She recently remarked to a friend "If I had
not been the thing I was, to marry as I did, I would not be
so unhappy now; but I have no one but myself to blame,
I did it all." This same lady is often emphatic in her injunctions to her daughter, in the presence of others, never
to marry until she is sure of having a husband of her own.
This class I have no doubt is more numerous than the one
I referred to elsewhere.
A Mormon wife who does not become a mother within
a reasonable time after marriage, suffers in the estimation in
which she is held by the Saints generally, and if she should
happen to have a second husband and still no issue she is
almost despised by her sex. This, however, does not apply to Amelia, the last wife of Brigham, who has been married two or three years, as her unfruitfulness may be accounted for from natural causes.
The tendency of polygamy being to immorality generally, I might refer to indecency in conversation as particularly observed. This occurs with women and children as well
as men. Several wives of one man, with their children
present, have been known to indulge in such indecent conversation as would bring the blush to the face of a modest
woman if repeated to her alone. The result of this may be
seen in the precociousness of their children in certain ways.
Urchins of eight or nine, know more of what they should
not know, than youths of sixteen or eighteen in a refined
community. They are not only afforded opportunities of
thus corrupting their minds, but often encouraged to do so.
x44 
CHAPTER XVII
POLYGAMY CONTINUED.
That the wives of polygamists in Utah are unhappy and
discontented I have already endeavored to show, and it is a
fact patent to all who have observed them. But the reader
will be somewhat surprised to learn that discontent and
"whining," as it is called, existed, even in the harem of the
Prophet, as long ago as I856. That such was the case
Brigham Young admitted in a sermon preached in the
tabernacle that year for the special benefit of the women
Polygamy among them-that is among all but the few that
had been favored, was in its infancy; but the little leaven of
discontent existing then, even in high places, has been
going on leavening the whole. Brigham's plain talk on this
occasion was as follows:
" Now  for my proposition.  It is'more particularly for
the sisters, as it is frequently happening that women say
they are unhappy.   Men  will say:'My wife, though a
most excellent woman, has not seen a happy day since I
took my second wife.'' No, not a happy day for a year,'
says one; and another has not seen a happy day for five
years (and such must have been among the clandestine
wives of polygamists, for it had not been published as a
doctrine of the church but four years before).  It is said
that women are tied down and abused, that they are mnis used, and that they are wading through a perfect flood of
tears because of the folly of some men as well as their
own folly.
I 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
" I wish my women (Heber Kimball sometimes calls his
wives his cows,) to understand that what I am going to say is
for them as well as others, and I want th6se that are here
to tell their sisters-yes, all the women in the country —and then write it back to the States, and do as you please
with it.  I am going to give you from this time to the 6th
day of October next (the day the semi-annual conference
was to meet) for reflection, that you may determine whether
you wish to stay with your husbands or not; and then I am
going to set every woman at liberty, and say to them:' Now,
go your way. My own women with the rest, go your way.'
And my wives have got to do one of two things-either
round up their shoulders and endure the afflictions of this
world, and love their religion, or they may leave, for I will
not have them about me. I will go into heaven alone rather
than have scratching and fighting around me. I will set all
at liberty.  What, first wife too?  Yes, I will liberate you
all. I know what my women will say:' You may have as
many wives as you please, Brigham.' (That- is rather inconsistent with their scratching and fighting around him).
' But I want to go somewhere, or do something, to get rid
of these whiners."* The thing to be done, I would respectfully suggest, would be to give up his iniquitous system
of polygamy.
With this want of congeniality and harmony in the
family of the Prophet, who is considered so desirable as a
husband, that a v   -an once, Jacob-like, served seven years
as a domestic in!,.o family, that she might at the end of her
servitude become one of his wives, what must have been
the state of domestic affairs in the families of those less
highly favored?
The offer of Brigham, to those who are unacquainted
with Mormon fanaticism, and their surroundings, and circumstances in life, might appear as a very liberal one to the
discontermed.   But it was really a taunt, as unkind as their
escape, if they desired it, was impracticable. While they
* Deseret Nezvs, Oct. Ist,  8 5 6.
146 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
whined, and scratched, and fought, they still regarded their
sufferings as necessary.  They were " enduring the afflictions of this world." But suppose they desired to avail
themselves of the offer? They must leave behind their
children, which to all mothers would be a sore trial. And
how would they "go their way," and whither would they
go? There was a population of Mormons only in the territory, and they would not assist them. There were no
United States troops as now. It was more than a thousand
miles to civilization, and they had no means to obtain transportation, for they were penniless.   There was  a tall
range of mountains, almost impassable in the winter, which
would have prevented a journey in private conveyances or
on foot, but their destitute condition would have made such
a journey as impracticable as any other. But supposing the
possibility of overcoming these obstacles, what awaited
them in a Christian community? They had degraded themselves, unwittingly it is true, but still degraded in the light
of Christianity, or even civilization. Some provision would
have been made for such, of course, but they would naturally
shrink from the encounter.
Then, if they had accepted the offer with the hope of remaining in the valley, how would they have been treated?
It is doubtful if they would be allowed to remain at all, for
they were told to "go," and their influence would have been
bad on others if they remained; and the fanaticisim of the
people would have been so increased that thay would have
been regarded as outcasts, most debased, in the eyes of
their persecutors.
The sermon had its desired effect to some extent I have
no doubt, not because of its liberality, but, on the contrary,
by more deeply crushing the spirits of the unhappy women.
They had declined the alternative, then they must " round
up their shoulders" and "endure the afflictions," be they
increased as they might. Brigham Young's seeming clemency was but another politic act of despotism.
After what I have written about marriage relation-how
it is entered into and how regarded-it will not be surprising
147 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
to any one to learn that divorces are numerous. They are
granted by the President for very trival causes. Sometimes
upon mutual agreement; oftener upon the application of the
interested, who may have been aggrieved, or imagined they
have. When the application proceeds from a woman it
may be set down as a rule that it is from good cause. I
was rather surprised to learn that the wishes of a woman
would be considered at all; but if she has evidence to present of neglect of her husband, or of his unkind treatment
of her, and there is a probability of her marrying again, the
divorce will almost certainly be forthcoming. This is more
particularly the case with the poorer classes.  With the
more influential the wishes of the husband would receive
very grave consideration. From what I have alreadv said
about women being taught that marriage is so essential to
their fuiture glory, it might be supposed that their belief in
this respect would prevent them from applying for divorce,
but such an application is by no means evidence of scepticism. The woman knows too well what a marketable
commodity she is, and almost any of them would be willing
to risk the chances of getting other men to introduce them
into heaven if they desired a change of the relations of this
life. There is not the slightest objection to a divorced
woman marrying again; she is supposed to hold the same
relation to society as if her husband were dead; and, indeed,
she is " counselled" to take another. The laws of marriage
and divorce are so lightly considered that a Bishop not long
since, when addressing his sisters in a ward meeting, remarked: "If your husband doesn't suit you put him away
and take another," and repeated the changes until he had
provided the seventh husband, if so many trials should be
necessary before a suitable one was found. I suppose his
advice to the other sex would be "if your first wife doesn't
suit you, take another, and if she should not, another and
another ad infinitum, omiting the' put her away."' That is,
he must keep them all.
Mr. Hyde says he knew a woman in Salt Lake City who
had been married six times (she was then one short of the
148 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
Bishop's limit), and that four of her previous husbands were
then living in the city. Ten years have passed since Mr.
Hyde wrote, and she may have still further multiplied her
divorces at this date.
Frequent application for divorce, for the most trivial imaginary causes had so annoyed the President that he determined upon a plan to diminish the number, and at the same
time add to the receipts of his office. Of this Mr. Hyde
speaks as follows:
" So common did the applications for divorce become,
that in 1854, Brigham had to impose a price to be paid in
cash (then very scarce) upon all bills.  He charged ten dollars
if married for time, and fifty dollars if sealed for eternity.
The money went mostly to the clerk. Not a few amusing
scenes occurred where parties who came for divorces had
to return and live together because they could not raise
money enough between them to pay for the' bill.' It had
the desired effect; it decreased the applications."
When a Mormon woman marries a Gentiles and becomes dissatisfied with her new lord, even though she has
violated the law of the church, and may have been cut off
from fellowship with the Saints, a divorce is readily obtained upon the slightest pretext.   I know of two instances
of this kind where divorces were granted for desertion of
the husbands, when they were only temporarily absent, and
one of them for a few days, at Fort Bridger. The husbands suspected nothing when they left, and returned rather
surprised to find their former spouses joined to others. One
of the husbands was an upright, intelligent and very worthy
young man, who had been married but a short time. From
what I learned of the character of the woman, he might
congratulate himself in getting rid of her as he did.
As a result of their " peculiar institution," I believe that
adultery is more common among the Mormons than any
class of people in the country, since the suppression of freelove societies. This may be regarded as a very bold declaration in the face of their assumed unexampled virtue.
Public prostitution, does not exist in the territory, and to
x49 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
this the Mormon points so triumphantly as evidence of
virtue. But if they are a virtuous people, even admitting
those living in polygamy to be, it must be from some differ    ently understood meaning of the word from that as usually
conceded when referring to the relations between the sexes.
How they reconcile their acts with their teaching, that adul   tery is a mortal sin that can be atoned for only by the shed   ding of blood, is a mystery which I can solve only tipon
the supposition that sin is not imputed to them as sin. I
have information, from what I consider very reliable author ity, of the practice of adultery by men well known in the
church, both at home and abroad, when on missions preach  ing Mormonism. For children to be born in the household
of an absent brother who may have been years away on a
mission is considered a fortunate circumstance for the absent
one, as his kingdom in the eternal world is thus increased.
I am told that such is of frequent occurrence among the
more vulgar and honest. What all Christianity would regard as sinful and criminal, I must infer is considered a
Christian duty by the saints
Polygamy in Salt Lake City, has extended its baneful influences throughout the adjacent country, outside the pale
of the church. I have never visited a locality where
women so little regard virtue, and men are so devoid of a
sense of honor in their relations to the other sex, as in
Utah. This is frequently spoken of by the Mormons, who
make invidious comparisons between their people and Gen tiles in this respect-referring to the outer life of the two
classes. They fail to see all this immorality as the fruits
of their iniquitous system.
Large numbers of soldiers, and others, thrown into this
country during the last four years, and cut off from the re
straining influences of home associations, are here exposed
ruined.
While I admit the absence of public prostitution in Salt
Lake  City, I must assert its existence, in another form,
among women whose ideas of morality and virtue have
15o 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
been so completely perverted, that they willingly embrace
opportunities of becoming mistresses of Gentiles. Whether
these are of a class who, in all honesty, once accepted the common infatuation, and have had their'eyes open to see their
real condition as others see it, and are willing to accept any
degradation, rather than remain where they were; or
whether they are women fallen as other women have, I am
unable to say.  In either case there is no doubt of the state
of society among the Mormons leading to their ruin.
When the California and Nevada volunteers returned
home, at the close of the war, numbers of Mormon women
accompanied the soldiers.  Some of them were married by
Judges of the United States Courts, and both husbands and
wives acted in good faith, and may make honorable members of society; others were married by adjutants of regiments, and the ceremony, altogether illegal, only intended as
a farce; while others went off together without desiring to
be considered husband and wife, bold and shameless in their
adultery.
Polygamy has probably reached its critical stage among
the Mormons of Utah.  The multiplication of wives is not
going on as before. The Act of Congress making it criminal has, probably, to some extent, prevented an increase of
the evil, while it has not remedied it. That it has changed
the opinions of the people as to their right to be polygamists
as long as it is sanctioned by the church, I do not believe,
though they may not consider it as expedient to be. It has
probably aroused a little healthful fear. General Babcock
in his report of an inspection tour through Utah, last summer, mentions that he learned from Judge Titus, the Chief
Justice of the territory, that since the passage of the Act of
Congress prohibiting polygamy, some of the Mormons have
already put away their unlawful wives, and others declined
to become polygamists. Such cases, however, I am inclined to think are very uncommon. Whether from a declining popularity, and threatening failure of this darling doctrine
of the leaders, or not, I am unable to say, but polygamy is
more strongly advocated now than ever before, and though
1SX 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
some may be putting away their unlawful wives, and others
refuse to become polygamists, it is as popular in high places
as ever. Only a few days before the date of this writing a
considerable excitement arose in Zion because a young
daughter of the editor of The Telegraph, sixteen years old, was
married as the fourth wife of a son of the president, while
the principal merchant of the city had previously applied to
her father for her as his fourth wife, and was refused.
Brigham Young would make it appear that he is more
strongly impressed as to the propriety of polygamy than
he ever was before.   At the last semi-annual conference
when a large congregation of people from the rural districts
was assembled he made this a special subject. These people know but little of how polygamy is regarded out of Utah,
and are a class who regard their prophet as next in wisdom
to the Omniscient, hence his desire to impress strongly
upon them, their duties and privileges in this respect.  On
the occasion referred to, he addressed them as follows:
"The last time I was in the City of Lowell there were
fourteen thousand more females than males in that one city.
This was many years ago. They live and die in a single
state, and are forgotten.   Have they filled the measures of
their creation, and accomplished the design of heaven in
bringing them upon the earth? No, they have not. Two
thousand good, God-fearing men should go there, and take
to themselves seven wives apiece. It is written in the Bible,
sand in that day, seven women shall lay hold of one man,
saying, we will eat our bread and wear our own apparel;
only let us be called by thy name, to take away our reproach.'
The government of the United States does not intend that
that prophecy shall be fulfilled, and the Lord Almighty
means that it shall.
" Do you not think that the Lord will conquer?  I think
He will, and we are helping Him. It is the decree of the
Almighty that in the last days seven women shall take hold
of one man, etc., to be counseled and advised by him, being
willing to spin their own clothing, and do everything they
can to earn their own living, if they can only bear his name
152 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
to take away their reproach.   What is this order for? It is
for the resurrection; it is not for this world.   I would not
go across this Bowery for polygamy, if it only pertained to
this world.  It is for the resurrection; and the Spirit of the
Lord has come upon the people, and upon the ladies especially, and prepares the way for the fulfillment of His
Word. The female sex have been deceived so long, and
been troddeen under foot of man so long, that a spirit
has come upon them, and they want a place, and a
name, and a head; for the man is the head of the woman,
to lead her into the celestial kingdom of our Father and
God."*
During the past wvinter the Salt Lake Telegraph has
abounded with editorials in defence of polygamy as never
before. It would make it appear as vital to their religion as
the doctrine of the atonement, or of the resurrection. For
days in succession long double-leaded editorial articles on
this subject have been published. The following has been
given as examples: It was the daughter of this writer who
the other day was married into the Young family:
" * * However, as to the question, cannot our cit.zens
renounce polygamy? It is just the same sort of question as
might have been put to Gallileo, would he not renounce the
theory about the earth turning round the sun? Or the ancient Apostles, could they not renounce their doctrine concerning the Redeemer, lowly born, crucified and risen? Or
any other apostle of religious, scientific or other class of
truths, could they not renounce their favorite theories?
Could not Franklin renounce his electricity theories, or Watt
his steam theories?
*     *      *      *      *      *      *      *      *
,Polygamy is not dependent on the Mormons, nor are
they upon it.  It is not responsible for them nor they for it.
The system of plural marriage is a Divine institution, a true
and life-giving system, made known from the heavens, and
practised by the people of God, as well as those who know
* Deseret News, October, I 8 66.
8
153 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
nothing of Him, for thousands upon thousands of years.
Faith in the principle and the practice of it when and where
necessary, are just as incumbent on the people as faith in
and the practice of any other divine truth. The rejection
of one truth is sin, just as much as the rejection of another.
"So far as the people of this territory are concerned,
they believe and practice polygamy not because any other
people did or do, or did not or do not the same thing, but
because it is a  part of the law of God to them.   If the
great Jehovah were to make known to them that He wished
them to discontinue the practice of polygamy, those of our
citizens who are now foremost in the observance of this
doctrine would, with corresponding alacrity and faithfulness,
cease to observe it, but until such shall be the case, they
cannot relinquish the doctrine and remain acceptable before
God.
"Let us ask our friends how they would regard our people, if they, convinced that polygamy were a part of the law
of God incumbent on them, were to weekly renounce it
through fear of the threatenings of puny man, and most all
of such specimens of the race as many politicians are?
What account of their stewardships could our people render
to their Father in Heaven, if they were to abandon Histruths
at every breath of powerful or popular disfavor?   They
would be unworthy of the regard or esteem of either God or
man.   Better, far better, for them to abide in God's truths
and risk the consequences.   By so doing they will win
and retain the favor of heaven, and the fellowship of the
illustrious and worthy of our race in all ages, and having the
blessings secure, they can afford to risk the bad will and
vaporous threatenings of the rest of mankind."
Let me caution my Massachusetts friends hefore they
read the following not to get up a female emigration society
to Utah, after they learn the advantages of polygamy to
women as taught by the Mormons, for it might not prove
a more successful one than the famous Washington Territory enterprise:
"Are the wives of polygamists injured? Wherein are they
154
i 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
hurt? Have they not the same privilege of being respected
as honorable wives and mothers as any other women have?
It is their own free will and choice to become wives of
polygamists, and why should they complain of having their
own way? For our part we think polygamy is a mighty
fine thing for the women, and we will tell you why. In
the first place it insures every woman a husband, which
monogamy does not; in the second place it gives them the
privilege of getting a good husband, which monogamy
frequently does not, the latter system granting to many only
Hobson's choice; in the third place, it gives a woman the
privilege of having the man whom she would prefer of all
others, if she can persuade him, and monogamy often prevents such a desirable consummation. How, therefore, the
women who are married to polygamists can be injured by
it we cannot conceive."*
In addition to the influence of the pulpit and press, the
Legistature of the Territory, in its official capacity, comes
to the relief of polygamy. On the I3th of January they
adopted a memorial to Congress, setting forth in a long preamble the wrongs that have been done the people of Utah
by the act of Congress of I862 prohibiting polygamy, and
claiming its repeal on the ground of its unconstitutionality,
etc. No one knows better than Brigham Young the utter
uselessness of such a memorial.   But all such acts have
their effects upon this fanatical people.t  The result of this
petition in the House of Representatives was the adoption
of a report declaring polygamy to be a relic of heathenism
and barbarism, and but prostitution by another name, and
making it obligatory upon officers of the Government to
rigidly enforce existing laws on the subject.
Place these remarks alongside of such passages as I have
quoted in a previous letter, and compare their teachings of
to-day on the subject of marriage with the teachings of I850,
and can a sect so inconsistent, if there were not other things
* Salt Lake Telegraph, Jan. 29, I867.
t Ibid. Jan. 31, x867.
155 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
pointing to its end, be expected long to exist. This effort
of the pulpit, press and legislature to bolster up the church
may be a dernier resort when they see ruin impending.
Those specially urgent in the maintenance of the " institu tion" have their "entangling alliances" therewith, and it
is but natural that they should act as they do.  The cloud
they see rising in the church has already reached dimensions
larger than a man's hand, and will rise as certainly as did
Elijah's, and soon be pouring out in this case its destructive
element.
Intestine trouble is likely to arise from incredulity as to
the correctness of doctrine and practice; and if skepticism
should spread as to the truth of the doctrines of polygamy,
it would not only endanger the standing of Brigham and his
polygamists, but seal for ever the fate of the sect. A rigid
enforcement of law would only increase the fanaticism of
the people, which they would construe to be persecution for
religious opinions, and would bind them the more strongly
together; but a growing unbelief in and abandonment of
polygamy, without it being renounced by authority, would
knock out the keystone of the arch, and the whole superstructure of Mormonism would fall.
Polygamy is not so general in Utah as many suppose.
There are probably more polygamists in Salt Lake City and
the Bishops of the settlements than in the whole of the
territory besides.  The number of women, probably, very
slightly exceeds the number of men in Utah. In I86o,
there were 20,178 men and 19,947 women, but the proportion has been increased in favor of the women since that
time. The very large majority of these are wives of monogamists; and when we consider the number in the harems
of the prominent in Salt Lake City and other large settlements, it leaves not very many who can be polygamists,
even supposing there is a preponderance in favor of the men
among the unmarried.
Having so many in the church who are not restrained in
their religious views by selfish considerations, and with a
schism already, and with all the Christian world discoun
156 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY.
tenancing polygamy, is there not danger? I think Brigham
Young and his satellites fully realize it. The Gentile
population is increasing both in the city, and elsewhere, notwithstanding Brigham's efforts to prevent it, by refusing to
sell or rent property to such, and by discouraging all business patronage of them. The railroad is approaching Zion
from both the Atlantic and Pacific. When completed, a
flood of Gentiles will be poured into, and through the territory, mingling more or less with the masses of the people.
The Mormons dare not institute polygamy, until far away
from civilization, though they claimed to have had divine
authority long before. An evil, then, which would not be
tolerated in the States, before the existence of a law forbidding it, because of the abhorrence with which it would have
been r.garded by the people, (though it existed clandestinely)
cannot much longer be tolerated within the jurisdiction of
the government, and its statute-books disgraced by a law,
when no effort is made to enforce it, though violated every
day. That some active measures must be adopted speedily,
is evident, unless the Prophet has a revelation for himself
and people to shake the dust of this wicked country from
their feet, and tread upon its soil no more for ever. This
would be a most happy solution ot the difficulty attending
an abolition of the practice of polygamy. Now the law is
not only violated, but publicly ridiculed by the highest
authority of the church. Brigham has frequently remarked
in the Tabernacle that he "wouldn't give a dn for a
woman who wasn't worth more to a man than five hundred
dollars "-the penalty for the first violation of the law. I
might here explain that Brigham represents that all his
swearing is done in the pulpit. The Prophet has himself
violated the law at least once by marrying Amelia.
The following account of an interview between Mr. Colfax and his associates and Brigham Young, is evidence that
ject:, " In the course of the discussion, Mr. Young asked,
'suppose polygamy is given up, will not your government
157 
P'RACTICAL POLYGAMY.
then demand more-will it not war upon the Book of Mormon, and attack our church organization?' The reply was
emphatically' No,' that it had no right, and could have
no justification to do so, and that we had no idea that there
would be any disposition in that direction.
"The talk which was said to be the freest and frankest
ever known on that subject, in that presence, ended pleasantly, but with the full expression on the part of Mr.
Colfax and his friends that the polygamy question might
be removed from existence, and thus all objection to the
admission of Utah  as a State taken away;   but that
until it was, no such admission was possible, and that
the government could not continue to look indifferently
upon the enlargement of so offensive a practice.   And
not only what Mr. Young said, but his whole manner,
left us the impression that if public opinion and the
government united vigorously, but at the same time discreetly, to press the question, there would be found some
way to acquiesce in the demand, and change the practice of
the present fathers of the church."*
Such admissions. under such circumstances, are significant,
but they would not be made publicly, for the people's faith
would be shaken. The President would talk so before them.
But Brigham Young is a profound diplomatist, in his way,
and with the example of Joseph Smith, and others, who
publicly denounced polygamy, while they were privately
practising it, what would there be to surprise the public in
Brigham's course should a way yet be found to discontinue
it, in the face of what is now transpiring. The Mormons
are a people of contradictions and inconsistencies.
I have dwelt thus freely upon the peculiar institution of
Mormornism, because it is the only thing connected with the
church that is of special interest to the public, either because
of its vice or virtue, and if the government institute hostile
measures against the Mormons it will be solely for this
cause, and to rid the country of so foul a blot on her his
*Across the Continent. Bowles. Page 112.
I58 
PRACTICAL POLYGAMY, &c.
tory. How we may peaceably remove this disgrace I will
make the subject of some concluding remarks in another
chapter.
CHAPTER XVIII.
WHERE THE MORMONS COME FROM, AND HOW THEY
REACH SALT LAKE.
IN almost every country where the Protestant churches
of Great Britain and the United States have their
missionaries, there may also be found the preachers of
Mormonism sent out from the Valley of the Great Salt
Lake.
The earnestness and enthusiasm of this infatuated people
in their missionary labor, when viewed in the abstract,
must  command  universal admiration.   That  their sect
should increase in numbers from year to year under their
missionary system among the classes that compose the
proselytes is not surprising; nor is it surprising that the corrupt church holds within her walls so many of her converts
when we consider all the circumstances in the case: the
class of people; their delusion, and how they are isolated
in Utah with all avenues to their enlightenment closed.
Nineteen-twentieths of the additions to the Mormons
that take place from year to year, are from the most degraded of the peasantry of Europe, while Great Britain probably furnishes three times as many as all of the rest of the
world (including our country) combined. The following
statement of the emigration to Utah for several years, is
obtained from the work of Captain Burton on the Mormons.
This writer possessed remarkable facilities for obtaining cor
I59 
WHERE THE MORMONS
rect information from their records. For weeks he was a
constant visitor at the historian's office in Salt Lake City;
besides having the confidence of their prominent men, he
through them learned much of their history, which he has
given to the public in his elaborate work the "City of the
Saints," carefully avoiding, however, all unfavorable allusion
that it was possible to avoid.  About emigration he says:   "I now proceed to figures, which can easily be verified
by reference to Liverpool. From I840 to I854 they reck oned seventeen thousand one hundred and ninety-five souls,
and from I854 to I855, four thousand seven hundred and
sixteen souls, the total in fifteen years (I840-'55) being
twenty-one thousand nine hundred and eleven. From I855
to 1856 they number four thousand three hundred and
ninety-five souls, and from the Ist of July I857 to 3oth of
June I86o, they count two thousand four hundred and
thirty-three, making for the five subsequent years (I855-'6o)
a total of six thousand eight hundred and twenty-eight.
Thus in twenty years between I840-'60 they show a grand
total of twenty-eight thousand seven hundred and thirtynine immigrants."
I have already said that three-fourths of this immigration
was from Great Britain, and give as an example the nationalities of the people that arrived between the years i857-'60
as recorded by the same writer:-" From the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland-English, one thousand
and seventy-four; Scotch one hundred and twenty-six;
Welsh one hundred and seventy-three; Irish twelve. The
total number from the Scandinavian missions is seven hundred and sixty-two, of which there are five hundred and
twenty-eight Danes, one hundred and ninety-three Swedes,
and forty-one Norwegians.   The  total number from the
Swiss and Italian missions is two hundred and eleven, of
which two hundred and nine are from the Swiss Cantons,
and two from Italy. There are also two French, and three
Germans, and seventy Elders returning home from missions,
making a grand total of two thousand four hundred and
thirty-three."  Since i86o other missions have been established in addition to those reported above.
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I will now endeavor to explain the workings of their
missionary and emigration systems, which add so many
to the population of Utah every year. Proselyting and
emigration go together. When an individual accepts their
religious creed, and joins the church, he is taught that it is
his duty, and will greatly conduce to his happiness to emigrate immediately to Zion in America.
At the April session of the semi-annual conferences, in
Salt Lake City, the elective officers of the church are elected,
and the appointments of others announced. Among the
latter are the appointments to missions. A man must have
been ordained an Elder, before he is eligible to the office of
a missionary, and the more important missions are supplied
by persons ranking high among the clergy. The English
mission is considered the most desirable, and is usually filled
by one of'the Twelve. The head of the mission is called
the president.  The president has two counsellors, also of
high grade.   He might be said to control all foreign missions, as his duties pertain to other works, as well as that
over which he more immediately presides.
For labor among the people Elders are sent out, subject
to the orders of the president, and are responsible to him for
the manner in which they discharge their duties. They
usually go iti pairs; but larger numbers are sent to the more
important missions, and the largest to the English, as might
be inferred from the statistics of emigration.
All missionary appointments are made by the president
of the church, and announced at the conclusion of the conference, just as are the appointments of ministers to their
stations, by the annual conferences of the Methodist church.
Usually it is understood beforehand, who are to go on missions; but it sometimes happens that an announcement,
for instance, of an Elder being ordered to India, falls like a
thunderbolt upon some unsuspecting saint. The English
mission is one sought after by influential men, being regarded as a profitable one, pecuniarily; while the more undesirable ones are shunned, and regarded as punishments.   A
few years ago, Mr. Jennings, the prince of Mormon mer
*8
i6i 
WHERE THE MORMONS
chants, was given one of these "punishments." Of course
it would have been a great sacrifice for him to have left his
business, sothe matter was compromised with the president,
and Mr. Jennings allowed to procure a substitute. I do not
know the pecuniary consideration received either by the presi dent or the substitute. The presidency of the English mission
is supported out of the tithing paid in that country; but those
who are sent out to preach receive no remuneration from the
church, and are supposed to fall back upon the old apostolic
plan, and go forth without purse or scrip. Going without purse
or scrip practically refers only to the purse ofthe church. Missionaries are allowed to use their own funds to any extent they
desire; but to do so is unnecessary.   When  one is about
to start the people of his ward, or settlement, ascertain his
wants, and supply them in kind. That is if his wardrobe is
scant, it is replenished; if his shoes are poor, others are furnished; and his larder is supplied for a journey to the next
locality, where it wil be renewed. The more liberal of the
Saints also furnish to the more popular of their missionaries
ready cash; but this is unusual. Cash itself is exceedingly
uncommon among the people.
In England, when an Elder arrives on a mission he is
dealt with most liberally. The first act of the resident Mormon is to take him to a clothier, and substitute a suit of
ministerial black for the variegated homespun in which he is
clad. The outer man is quite renewed, and a missionary
two days after his arrival in Liverpool, would not be recognized as the same individual who had landed a few days before.
Their houses are then thrown open, and he fares very
much as did Methodist preachers when taken into a family
during the session of a conference twenty years ago; the
fatted calf is killed, and everything possible done to increase
the creature comforts. If he should be a polygamist, he is
even more enthusiastically received, and more sumptuously
entertained, being regarded by the vulgar as belonging to a
higher order of beings than monogamic  brothers.   How
different from the public feeling toward such in i850o when
Parley Pratt had to lie to the people to satisfy them! In
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England, however, the Mormons know nothing more about
the practical workings of polygamy than do the nuns in
France.
Latterly the president of the English session has been allowed to take one wife with him; but this was not permitted until recently. The former prohibition resulted in conduct disgraceful to some who were sent as well as to the
church that sent them. I must mention a rather romantic
incident connected with the life of a president who flourished in Liverpool not a hundred years ago. While he had
two wives in Salt Lake City, he became attracted by a
young lady in the city where he was residing, and the intimacy resulted in their marriage. How he evaded the law
of the church which requires that plural marriages shall take
place only before Brigham Young I do not know; but he
was married nevertheless. He may have been married over
again when he returned to Zion, and perhaps reproved for
having kept a mistress, for such she must have been considered by the church if he was not married according to its laws.
Not long after the celebration of the nuptials, wife number
one or number two turned up in Liverpool, when the president found himself in a strait, with two wives, where he
would certainly be punished if it were known to the authorities. The young lady was publicly introduced as his wife,
while the American wife was not known to be one. And
as the husband had followed the example of Abraham in not
remaining true to the wife of his youth, so he followed his
example farther, and when in difficulty represented that his
Sarah was his sister.  In this the man was accidentally consistent.  But as heholds up Abraham as an example, being a
polygamist, he should also hold him up as an example being
a prevaricator, and if his course justified the one practice,
it should also the other, then polygamy and lying ought to
be taught together. The president lived several months
with his two wives, his first continuing to pass as his sister.
The presidents generally are held in high esteem by the
resident Mormons, but such is not always the case, as may
be seen from the following extract of a letter before me.
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WHERE THE MORMONS
It would not be proper for me to give the name of the writer;
but I would state that the person had observed all that is
referred to in the letter.  After alluding to other matters it
refers toa certain president, whose name is given, in this wise:
" This man was a tyrant among the people, and few re spected him. He would not show himself to preach to the
people except on fast days once a month; and then he would
scold them and tell them that they were extravagant; that
they lived too well; that they did not pay enough to the
Lord; and during one month seventeen old members, who
had been in the church ever since its organization in Europe,
were' cut off' "(women would never have been dealt with
thus harshly-they are too valuable in the church and the
unfortunates must have been men). The reason people did
not like him was because he spent so much money on his
"little doll," (the wife he had with him. Saints in Salt Lake
do not have " dolls "-their wives as a rule are treated as
anything else).  " He made it a practice to go to the theatre
and take his wife's family, and that cost him one pound
every night he went, and it was the tithing thatpaid it. He
was just the man to extort money from the poor, and' cut
them off' if they did not pay their tithing; and a man or
woman rather than lose their position in the church would
pay their last cent.
"I know of cases where women have had to take
their husbands' clothes to the pawnbrokers, in order to have
the money ready for their teacher.  Shoes have been taken
from little children's feet to pay the fee. It is a common
thing for a poor sister to go out and earn a shilling, and
when she goes home find an Elder from Utah at her house,
and she will very cheerfully put her hard-earned shilling in
his hand, and believe that the Lord has blessed her for it,
and I have known cases where the men have gone into a
liquor-store and spent it." Such testimony is rather damaging to the character of Mormons when they go abroad.
Formerly the headquarters of Mormonism was in Liverpool, but within a few years they have been changed to London, and there the Elders report on their arrival out,and are
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sent thence to different parts of the kingdom. The manufacturing towns, where there are large numbers of operatives,
and other localities where the ignorant and poor are collected, are their principal fields of operations. Their meetings
are held in public halls, hired for the purpose, and large
numbers are attracted by curiosity, and the more credulous
among them are easily deceived by the sophistry and misrepresentations of the preachers, and unite with the church.
Sometimes their meetings are held out doors, iil marketplaces, and elsewhere, but such gatherings are often dispersed by the police.  Another means of reaching the people is by meetings in the houses of those who have embraced the faith, and are zealous to extend the new gospel among
their friends; accordingly they are collected together, and
the teacher invited to preach.   No insignificant proportion
of Mormon converts have been made in this way.
A more successful way of proselyting than by preaching
the ridiculous tenets of their theology, is in the extravagant
praise of the Mormon's Zion, in the Great Salt Lake valley.
The temporal advantages to be derived from a residence
there are represented to be incalculable; and then to be
comparatively shut in with God's people, away from the
unbelieving and wicked Gentiles, is another desirable consideration.   Some of the Elders teach that a home  will
spring up as if by magic, and that the fields will yield their
fruit almost without cultivation. Others whose assurance
is not so great, dwell more upon the spiritual benefits of a
residence in Zion, but all are agreed in overrating the natural
advantages of the locality.  It is portrayed as equal in all
respects to the Canaan which the Jews so long sought while
journeying in the wilderness.
In addition to these tangible advantages, held out to a poor,
ignorant, and often oppressed people, is the wonderful influence exerted by the impression created of a real interest
in their spiritual welfare on the part of the missionary.
They never before realized that a minister's concern for
them individually, extended further than to see that they
attended service occasionally, and paid regularly their church
*
I65 
WHERE THE MORMONS
fees. They regard it as Christ-like for a man to subject
himself to so many trials, without pay, and without honor, for
their soul's benefit, and while they see nothing attractive in
his religion, they see so much to admire in the man that
they are willing to accept his teachings, and become the subjects of the salvation he preaches to them.   Occasionally
educated persons, who have been unfortunatein life, see in
such conduct such a contrast with the characters of those
surrounding them, that they too are led into the delusion.
As soon as the assent of an individual is obtained to the
doctrinal teachings of an Elder, he then endeavors to impress upon the mind of the convert the importance of aiding in building up God's physical kingdom on earth, and as
the advantages represented as belonging to that kingdom
have probably led the individual to embrace Mormonism, he
is only too willing to contribute his part by becoming at the
earliest possible day a resident of Zion.   But to migrate
thither costs money, and those most anxous to go are least
capable of meeting the expenses of the journey.   For tho
church to pay these expenses would require a large outlay,
and it provides a way for people to pay for themselves;
so when their Christian privileges are preached to them, their
Christian duty to enable them to enjoy these privileges is as
strongly urged. This consists in raising the necessary emigration money. Nine pounds is the amount charged for
the entire journey, and any portion of this, from a penny a
week upward, may be deposited at the Emigration Office,
until the required amount is raised. The individual is then
sent over in the next emigrant vessel the church charters,
after the sum has been deposited.   The enthusiastic young
convert will deny himself or herself (oftener herself) the ordinary comforts of life, to be able to pay their emigration
fees.
There is, however, an emigration fund, raised by contribution, for the benefit of those unable to save the required
amount. This is expended at the discretion of the president of the mission. He says who shall, and who shall not
have the benefit of the fund.   Young girls may without
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difficulty secure their passage without prepayment; but an
educated man, with a family, may be unable to procure any
of the benefits of the emigration fund if his services are
useful in England. Nor indeed are such always allowed
to go, when they can raise the funds, but are told they must
be further " tried" before going up to Zion.
The separation of families for shipment to this country is
one of the great evils of the emigration system.  As an example I would mention an instance when Apostle Cannon
was in charge of the mission, only three or fouryears ago. He
allowedfourteen young girls, from twelve to fifteen years of
age, to be taken from their parents and friends, and without
a protector to embark on an emigrant vessel, and then journey almost across the continent to Salt Lake valley.   Not
long after their arrival a lady met one of these girls she knew
in England, and inquired where her mother lived, supposing, of course, she was in the territory, and was quite surprised to learn of the circumstance I have mentioned. This
girl then described the journey and remarked that soon after
sailing she sprained her ankle, when she " felt the need of
mother, but oh!" said she, " how much more did I need
her when crossing the plains," and then related the shameful insults to which she had been subjected which the modesty of the lady would not allow her to repeat to me. What
eternal disgrace should cling to the character of the man
who would willingly risk and expose the virtue of helpless
girls in this way!
To populate Utah with women as fast as possible, is one
great end of emigration, and it is now "counselled" that
poor men who are unable to raise the price for the emigration of their whole families, should send their wives and
daughters first, and go afterward themselves, when they
could collect sufficient means. This is reversing the order
of things formerly practiced, when the husband and father
went first to provide a home.
In former years the emigrants all collected at Liverpool,
even from other parts of Europe; but now the ships receive
their loads from ports most convenient to the localities where
the emigrants reside.
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C, 
WHERE THE MORMONS
The vessels chartered are the ordinary sailing emigrant
ships, and the saints are provided precisely the same accommodations that sinners find when sailing in these vessels independent of Mormon Emigration Societies. Before sailing the passengers are furnished with simple rat-ons for the
voyage, and they then arrange themselves into messes, and
each mess makes such provision for the voyage as their means
and inclinations will permit.
The president of the mission appoints a president of the
ship, and two counsellors. This organization, it may have
seen noticed, runs through their system.  The ship's president acts in much the same capacity that a colonel would
with his regiment embarked. A clerk is also appointed,
who is expected to note all that transpires on the voyage,
recording carefully marriages, births, deaths, etc., and incidents of interest.
A singular entry appeared in the journal of a clerk of one
of the ships that came over in I863. It was that the president had been drunk for three consecutive days and confined for that time in the hold of the vessel. To prevent a
repetition of the occurrence the 1 counsellors" deposed him
from office, that he could not have access to the brandy that
was sent out for the sick, and get drunk again.   Upon the
arrival in Salt Lake the facts were reported to President Young
and the offender was suspended from the communion of the
saints; but not long thereafter Brigham relented, and reinstated the man, remarking-" Oh! he was only drunk-that
was all."
On shipboard they resort to various amusements. There
are regular evenings for dancing, and singing is almost constantly heard in some part of the ship. The men smoke
and swear. Some of the most profane men I ever heard
were Mormons. The sisters often manifest a propensity to
petty larceny in the way of appropriating the stockings, and
other little articles of the wardrobe of those lying next to
them, after turning in for the night.  Religious services are
held night and morning, and at the same time the roll is
called to ascertain whether or not all are safe.
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A voyage of four or six weeks, under favorable circumstances, lands them in New York City, when the saints
find accommodations, like other immigrants, in Castle Garden, until arrangements are completed for their transportation by rail to the Missouri River.  About three days are
required for this.
At one time immigrants were landed at New Orleans,
and went thence up the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers to
some point where their trains met them for their overland
journey. This route, however, has been abandoned entirely,
as an unhealthy and expensive one, and not so expeditious.
From New York the immigrants are hurried through the
States in cars provided for that class of travellers, without
any opportunities of observing the country or the people,
and soon reach a point near Omaha, whence they commence  their trip over the plains.  Often they arrive in
advance of the trains, which are liable to delays occasioned
by the high water in streams at the season they start, and
the exposed people suffer much from sickness.
From their debarkation at New York, to their arrival in
Salt Lake City, they are without medical attendance, and
the sick die, or recover, as the unaided powers of nature
may decide the case. The hardships to which they are
subjected, combined with a want of cleanliness, loss of rest,
improper diet, exposure, &c., often thwart the recuperative
powers of nature, and many a Mormon lies buried on the
plains, who with a little care and attention, might have
been saved. The employment of a doctor, under any circumstances, is regarded as an evidence of weakness of faith.
The power of healing is supposed to be in the laying on
of hands, which is the only means used. The large mortality in a healthy country, is evidence against their system
as well as the conclusions of Oliver Wendell Holmes, who
wrote that if all the medicine in the world were thrown into
the sea it would be a good deal better for mankind and
a good deal worse for the fishes.
Every spring the owners of wagons and teams among
the Mormons of Utah are required to furnish, accord
I69 
WHERE THIE MORMONS
ing to their ability, the means of transportation neces sary for the immigrants. Each individual who furnishes
any, keeps an account of the number of wagons or
animals furnished, and if they are not returned in the fall,
the owner is remunerated from the Emigration Fund; but
he is allowed nothing for the use of them. He is supposed
to be loaning them to the Lord, and expects to receive ten fold, in some other way, what their use may be worth. The
drivers of these teams are selected with great care, and be fore they are sent out are required to go through the endowment house, a secret institution of Mormonism, where by
oaths, and ceremonies, the initiated are supposed to be made
purer, and with drivers fresh from this solemn and holy (?)
service the women are supposed to be safer.  Upon the arrival of the trains at the river all is life and activity among
the immigrants in preparing for their long journey, and no
little amusement is afforded by the sight of ox-teams, which
is quite a novel thing to them.
These wagons are only for the transportation of baggage
and rations. The people are all required to walk the thousand mile journey without even suitable conveyance for those
who are sick on the road-such can be accommodated only
on the loaded wagons.   They have no tents, nor any protection from the storm.  It is a sad sight to see the road
lined with these people laboring to get along in a severe
snow-storm, as I have seen them. Old and decrepid men
and women, some with their wooden shoes, others without
any, totter along in the rear of-the slow-moving ox-trains;
but slow as they move it is too fast for some of these who
are borne down by the infirmities of age or disease. I have
been informed that many such die on the road, and from
what I have witnessed I cannot doubt the truth of the statement.   Out of a party of nine hundred that crossed the
plains in the summer of i864, twenty-two died after leaving
the Missouri River. One of this number was an old man
who for some offence was ducked in a stream until he was
drowned. This I learn from the lips of a witness of the
n'trder. Another of the casualties was the destruction of
17o 
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a poor woman by wild beasts. From sickness and fatigue
she was unable to keep up with the train, and was killed and
devoured by wolves or other wild animals.
Notwithstanding all their hardships and privations, murmuring is not heard because it is not allowed. If a saint
is reported for that offence, at the next meeting he is surely
reprimanded for the first offence, and if he persists more
severe punishment is inflicted. To counteract anv tendency
to complaint, and drive away the melancholy natural under
such circumstances, frequent dances are indulged in, as well
as other hilarity,to drown thought. Then in addition they
are urged to a contented and hopeful state of mind, by frequent allusions, at their religious services, to that beautiful
land flowing with milk and honey, which they are going up
to possess.
Great as are their hardships in crossing the plains at present, a system was tried several years ago that deserves no
milder designation than one of barbarous cruelty.   I refer
to the hand-cart trains.   Hand-carts were substituted for
wagons, and two individuals, usually a man and woman,
drew each, and this -cart contained all their worldly goods.
If from fatigue or accident they abandoned it, they abandoned every thing. A lady at Fort Bridger, who witnessed the
passage of one of these trains through that post, informed
me that it was one of the most sickening sights she ever beheld. Men and women had lashed themselves with cords
to their carts like beasts, and without shoes their mangled
and bleeding feet trod the rough ground, as they toiled over
it with their load. Oiie of the men was wheeling his wife,
who had become exhausted from fatigue, in addition to his
usual load.
A friend who had opportunities of knowing whereof he
wrote, thus refers to this hand-cart train:  "He (referring
to an apostle returning from a mission) came across the plains
in a carriage, with three wagons loaded, and in one of them
a piano, besides every thing needed for his journey.   He
passed the hand-cart train, and those who had furnished him
the money, while in England, to buy what he was taking
I7I 
WHERE THE MORMONS &c.
along, cried out to him to assist them; but he was too big to
stop to hear their distress.  This train, which started late in
the season, was overtaken by heavy snow-storms, in Novem ber and December, and many died before they reached the
valley.  Brigham openly cursed the man responsible for this
suffering, and he could not hold up his head for a long
time. The people's curse still remains on him."
In addition to those who lost their lives, there are now
invalids in Salt Lake City who date back their shattered
health to this unfortunate experiment.
When the trains reach "Emigration Canion" the pass
through the Wasach Mountains by which they reach the
city, or at some other point convenient to the city, the
agents of the Emigration Society visit the people to settle
the accounts of those who have not paid their emigration
fees in advance. The notes of such delinquents are then
taken, and these are held in terrorem over them if at any time
they think of leaving the territory.  The society expects to
be reimbursed for all its expenditures for emigration.
This being settled they then proceed to the city and encamp or bivouac in Emigration Square. Upon the arrival
of the trains the inhabitants visit the square to find friends,
servants or wives, as they may desire. Heber Kimball advises
those in charge of the trains not to select all the pretty girls
before they get in, but give all a chance. Very often, when
the market for wives is dull, fine-looking girls are hired as
servants. Not having been such at their homes they may
object at first, but after being" counselled" to go they generally yield. Probably in a short time the employer takes a fancy to the maiden and tells her that he has discovered that he
"' kinder likes her," and is willing to exalt her to a wife in
this world and glory in the next. This proposition may be
as distasteful as the first was, and she is again "counselled"
and again yields.   Such is common experience of immigrants.
After the party has been well culled over, and those who
can do so have obtained places, the remainder are sent off to
the settlements to be treated in like manner.   It is a com
172 
MORMON WORSHIP, &c.
mon thing for large families to be divided up to go to almost
as many different localities as there are individuals, and this
done without the consent of the parties.  It is true they are
not forcibly separated, but are" counselled" to go.  This is
as bad a feature as was one of the worst of negro slavery
in the South a few years ago.
CHAPTER XIX.
MORMON WORSHIP AND MORMON DIGNITARIES
THE public worship of the Mormons consists of services
at the Tabernacle every Sunday morning and afternoon,
and also on the first Thursday of every month, which is
observed as a fast day. They have meetings in the schoolhouses of the various wards on Sunday nights, also. Their
form of public worship is similar to the services ill Methodist churches on such occasions. A hymn is announced
and sung, followed by a prayer, and then the discourses,
after which another hymn is sung, and the congregation dismissed with a prayer, or the benediction. During the su mmer months, as I have before stated, services are held in the
"Bowery" instead of the present Tabernacle, which is too
small for the large congregations that assemble.
At both morning and afternoon service at least two sermons are preached, and the Prophet is usually one of the
speakers in the afternoon, when there are tke largest congregations. I have attended several meetings in the Bowery, and on the first day heard Mr. Geo. Q. Cannon,
one of the Apostles, and Private Secretary to the President,
address the people. The burden of his sermon (for I suppose it is styled such) was faithfulness to the church, with
173 
MORMON WORSHIP
out specifying in what it consisted, and an abuse of the
Governm  nt, to which he referred rather ingeniously as "our
enemies," though at times was not at all ambiguous, and
spoke of "conspirators against the church by men in high
places, from the head of the nation down." He declared
that nowithstanding all this the church would succeed, and
remarked that God had wrought greater miracles in delivering the Latter Day Saints from their enemies than he ever
did in the deliverance of the children of Israel.
Though an educated man himself, he spoke very disparagingly of education in general, and alluded to the many apostacies from the faith that had occurred with young men aspiring to professions. He warned the young ladies, especially,
against cultivating any taste for the fine arts. This was
probably suggested by the apostacy of Miss Carmichael, a
young lady of liberal education, who has written and published some very good poetry.
Mr. Cannon is an educ Lted man, with pleasing and refined
manners, and appears to have a well-balanced mind. I am
not willing, therefore, to accord to him that honesty
which characterizes the great mass of the people, to which I
shall refer hereafter.
I have also heard the Prophet in the Tabernacle. His
( say " consisted in comments upon the remarks, and a history of the religious life of a speaker who had preceded
him; in the hackneyed subject of faithfulness to the church,
and in abuse of the Government because of what he declared
was persecution and inconsistency, and as regards the latter,
branched off on political topics a little, and referred to the
inconsistency of Congress, which four years ago couldn't
conceive of authority enough to give the President, but
now wants to take from him that delegated in the Constitution. Among other strange remarks he made was that
the Latter Day Saints were the only sane people on the
subject of religion on the face of the earth.
I heard the remarks of the brother to whom the President alluded.   It was his first sermon in the Mormon
Church, and the only one I ever heard in which there was
174 
AND MORMON DIGNITARIES.
any spirituality. His history, as I gathered from the remarks of both himself and the President, is as follows: He
was educated for the ministry in Germany, and filled a pulpit in a Lutheran church in that country for a few years,
when he emigrated to the United States. He found in this
country no sect exactly corresponding with the Church to
which he belonged at home, and selecting the one that approached nearest to it, he united himself with the Protestant Episcopal Church.   Not long afterward he was given
a parish somewhere in New York, and ministered unto his
people for a few years, feeling, however, all this time, that
he was not doing all he could for the Master. To be
taught his proper and his whole duty he made a subject of
special prayer, and sought in every possible way to ascertain what it was. Finally he had a vision (visions are very
common with Mormons), and in it an angel came to him,
and he inquired of the angel what he should do, when he
was told " GQ thy way." Rather vague instruction for
one in ignorance of his duty, and he pressed the angel for
an explanation. Then the light came. The angel said,
" Go to my servant, Brigham Young, in Great Salt Lake
City, and he will teach thee the way." His line of duty
was then clear to him; he gave up his church; corresponded with the Prophet; afterward removed to Utah, and
is now an honest Mormon.
The following day I had an interview with the Prophet,
and mentioned that I heard him preach the day before,
when he inquired if I heard the sermon preceding his, and
appeared to be very proud of this new accession to his
clergy.  He  said the man had been a student all his life,
and had never done a day's manual labor before he arrived
in Utah; " but when he came here we put him to work as
we do everybody."
It grieved me to see a pious and educated man led into
this ridiculous delusion.
The fact of this man being educated was not a source of
congratulation to Brigham, but his complete infatuation and
submission were the great things. An idea of the Presi
175 
MORMON WORSHIP
dent's appreciation of education may be learned from the
following:
On Sunday afternoon, in the Bowery of Salt Lake, before 3000 persons, during the summet of I855, Orson
Pratt was addressing the people on the necessity of studying from books. Said he:
"Suppose you and I were deprived of all books, and that
we had faith to get revelation, and no disposition to understand that which has been sought out, understood and recorded in books, what would be our condition? It would
require an indefinite period in which to ma4ke any progress
in the knowledge that is even now extant."
- Brigham rose, his dignity hurt, his temper ruffled, and he
administered to Pratt, the presumptuous offernder, one of the
most outrageous tongue-lashings ever conceived of. He
said:
" The professor has told you that there are many books
in the world, and I tell you there are many people in the
world; he says there is something in all these books, I say
each one of these persons has a name; he says it would do
you good to learn that something, and I say it would do you
just as much good to learn these somebodies' names. Were
I to live to the age of Methuselah, and every hour of my
life learn something new out of some of these books, and
remember every particle I had acquired, five minutes' revelation would teach me more truth, and more right, than all
this nonsense that I should have packed in my unlucky
brains."
The sacrament of the Lord's Supper is administered
every Sunday afternoon. Water is substituted for wine
(which was formerly used, but has been abandoned because
too expensive) as one of the emblems, and after being
blessed is passed around through the congregation, during
the delivery of the sermon, and appeared to me as any other
than a solemn service. The water and bread is blessed by
Bishop Hunter, the Chief Bishop, and passed by three
Elders selected for that office, to the President, his two
colleagues, and then to the others on the stand in the order
176 
AND MORMION DIGNITARIES.
of rank. Teachers and priests, a lower class of officials,
then distribute the emblems through the congregation.
Fasting on Sunday morning before going to " meeting"
is enjoined upon all the members, and they are expected to
contribute the value of the breakfast thus saved to charitable purposes.
The exercises in the Bowery I would not have supposed
to be of a religious character if the hymns and prayers had
been omitted; and those of the ward-meetings partake
much less of worship, though they are called religious meetings. They are presided over by the Bishops, who explain
to the people the most successful ways of raising poultry,
cattle, etc., and settle any little disputes that may have occurred during the week about their irrigating, water, etc.
Should a sister have been seen taking butter or eggs or any
article to Camp Douglas, to realize a little cash from their
sale, her Bishop is very likely at the next ward-meeting, to
give the sisters a lecture about being too intimate with Gentiles, and to refer very plainly to the conduct of the offending one.
The grand religious occasions of the year are during the
sessions of the semiannual conferences in April and October. These meetings are for the transaction of church
business, by the Bishops and others, when their presence in
a collective capacity is necessary, but the laity are also assembled to elect officers and attend religious services.
During the sessions, which continue for four or five days,
there is service morning and afternoon of each day at the
Bowery, but the extensive accommodations it affords are
very inadequate for the occasions. The people collect in
vast crowds, and stand patiently within sight, but not within hearing of the speaker, reminding me of the scene at an
inauguration of a President in Washington, when a large
proportion of the crowd are unable to hear a word that is
said, but appear very much interested in the gesticulations
of the speaker. Conference days the city is crowded with
people. Every variety of vehicle to be observed at a country canip-meeting may be seen standing about the streets,
9
177 
MORMION WORSHIP
and the enthusiasm of the people is kept up by bands of
music playing near Temple Square on Main street. They
are great days in Zion!
Frequent efforts have been made by the Mormons to
conduct Sabbath-schools in Salt Lake City, but so far they
have all proved failures, generally not continuing for more
than three days.
Recently a Gentile Sabbath-school has been started and
promises to be very successful. At one time a number of
Mormon children attended, but the edict of the President,
forbidding them to do so, went forth, and they were withdrawn.
The Mormons are exceedingly fond of dancing, which
is regarded as a very important part of their education.
During the winter there are dances two or three times a
week in every ward, and on special occasions, such as religious and other anniversaries, grander entertainments are
given by the prominent in the church in "Social Hall," a
building owned by Brigham, and rented for such purposes.
From these social gatherings the Gentiles are not excluded, the more liberal of them being usually invited. A
better state of feeling exists between the officers stationed
at Camp Douglas and the Mormon authorities, than during
the incumbency of General Connor as Commandant of
that post.  These officers and their families are occasionally invited, and attend these entertainments, without in the
least compromising themselves. General Connor would
have regarded such conduct a sufficient cause for dismissal.
Like the Irishman who thought "St. Patrick a greater
man than the Fourth of July," the Mormons regard the
26th of July, the day on which they reached the valley, as
altogether a more important anniversary than our Independence Day. It is celebrated by reviews of the militia, parades, picnics, social convivial parties, special theatrical
performances, etc. The more extensive of these demonstrations take place biannually.   Last year it was celebrated only by an extra performance at the theatre, and a
partial suspension of business. Those whose loyalty to
178 
AND MORMON DIGNITARIES.
Mormonism led them to close their stores were honored by
a band of music playing in front of each closed store about
noon. The Fourth of July is but little regarded by the
saints.
There is nothing peculiar in the dress of the Mormons.
It presents a great variety of styles, unequalled in that respect by any people. The wives and daughters of the
President generally dress tastefully and fashionably, as do
many other ladies in Salt Lake City. The masses of the
people wear every variety and style of garment worn in any
part of Europe during the last century, but the majority wear
cloth of their own making. I was much amused one day,
during their last semiannual conference, at the appearance
of a sister who came into the Bowery shortly after I had
been seated there.  She was probably one of the late arrivals. Her dress attracted the attention of even her sisters,
who have become accustomed to every variety. The striking peculiarity was a white lace veil of immense size, most
elaborately embroidered, which was thrown over a decidedly antique-looking bonnet, and hanging to the waist all
around. It reminded me of one my mother had when I
was a boy, something less than fifty years ago, that she
preserved as a curiosity of the times when her grandmother
was a girl.  The dress of the men is about as varied as that
of the women. I have frequently seen the clergy go into
the pulpit with linen coats and no vests; and on one very
hot day I think I saw a brother, who was actively engaged
in passing the bread and water from the stand to those who
administered it to the congregation, in his shirt-sleeves.
I should have remarked before that education is most
shamefully neglected. They have no system of public
schools.  There are schools in each ward, and during the
months of November, December, and January, are pretty
well attended by scholars of both 3exes, varying from five
to twenty-five years of age, but the standard of education in
them is very low. During the winter months a school will
number seventy-five scholars; but as soon as the farming
season begins, it will fall off to fifteen or twenty, and those
179 
MORMON WORSHIP
that remain are very young-little children of six or eight
years, who are sent from home to be kept out of mischief.
The teachers of these schools are not paid by the city, but
the parents are charged for the children they send. The
fees received are usually vegetables, fruit, butter, &c.  The
schools of Salt Lake City are quite in keeping with Brig ham's ideas of education referred to elsewhere.
I will now endeavor to give an account of the appearance,
&c., of the Prophet and his prominent associates.
A few days after my arrival at Camp Douglas, I gratified
my curiosity by calling upon the President at his residence.
I was received in his private office, and no one being present but his second colleague and the gentleman who introduced me, I had a good opportunity of conversing with the
remarkable man, and of observing him under favorable circumstances.
As I stated to the gentleman who accompanied me, that
I was actuated only by curiosity in desiring to see his friend
who had become so noted a character, and with this knowledge he invited me to go, so I feel more at liberty to make
public my impressions of him gathered from that interview
than I would under different circumstances. Moreover,
Brigham Young is a public character, and all such must
expect to be criticised. Mr. Young is a native of Vermont,
was born in i8oi, and is remarkably well preserved for a
man of his age. I should not have recognized him as the
individual I had seen in the "Bowery," or the one whose
photograph I had obtained. He appeared not so large, nor
was his bearing as commanding or dignified. His forehead
is contracted and his eyes small, with cunning well depicted
in them, and giving him a reserved expression. His mouth
of moderate size, with thin compressed lips, and a prominent
chin, indicating decision. His hair is sandy, mixed with
silvery threads, and his unshaven face, with beard of two
weeks' growth, which he was making into whiskers, gave to
it the usual unsightly appearance under such circumstances.
At first he seemed inclined to reticence, but in a few minutes this passed off, and he conversed freely and even per
t8o 
AND MORMON DIGNITARIES.
petrated a joke. Whenever I spoke he seemed to observe
my countenance closely, as if studying my character in my
physiognomy. His health is robust and his habits exceedingly regular. He never employs a doctor for himself or
any member of his family. He is said to be the best dancer
in Salt Lake City, and, though sixty-six years of age, trips
across the floor as lightly and with all the fancy steps of a
young dancing-master. He is fond of the amusement, and
indulges freely in it at social parties.  He is also an admirer
of the drama, and is seldom absent from the theatre when
there is a performance; has a box used only by himself and
last wife, and occasionally some friend or relative. These
latter habits are hardly in keeping with his position as
prophet, seer, revelator and translator of the Church of
Latter Day Saints.
I was rather disappointed in the man. I think he is without that strength of intellect which is generally attributed to
him by both Mormon and Gentile. He is unquestionably
a man of indomitable will, of great diplomacy, of remarkable
business capacity, and, as a financier, is probably without an
equal west of the Missouri River; and as a leader of a
fanatical religious people under the most trying circumstances, history furnishes none who have surpassed him. His
early advantages of education have not been great, nor has
he improved himself very much in riper years. His pronunciation is decidedly bad, and his bad grammar cannot be
altogether the result of carelessness. His general information I should think was very good. I was treated with
much courtesy, and after he had laid aside his reserve, which
any man so much an object of curiosity would be expected
to acquire,to a greater or less extent,his social qualities met my
admiration. I persisted in addressing him as Mr. Young,
rather to the annoyance of my friend, who always styled him
Mr. President in conversation.   Upon rising to leave we
shook hands, and walking toward the door he cordially invited me to call again.
I had no conversation with the Second President, Heber
C. Kimball, to whom I referred as being present, but when
*  *:..e *    ~ 
xI8 
MORMON WORSHIP
about leaving he shook me warmly by the hand and asked
that the blessing of the Lord might follow me. He is about
the age of Brigham Young, is a large muscular man, and
neither his appearance or conversation would lead a strang    er to suspect that he was the second president of a reli    gious sect. He was ablacksmith before he joined the Mor    mons, and looks not unlike one now. He has a Sun-of    Thunder style of delivering his harangues from the pulpit.
His elocution would cause Professor Bailey of Yale to
faint, and his irreverence would be pronounced profanity
by any Christian minister I know, except, perhaps, one [
once met in Washington, who is somewhat of the same
manner of man.   But irreverence is not the striking pecu    larity of his sermons They often partake of such disgust    ing obscenity that a sense of propriety and modesty will
not allow me to refer to here even in general terms. And
still he publicly declares that his sermons are not prepared
beforehand, but he speaks only as he is moved by the Holy
Spirit.   One might suppose the influence of some other
spirit operated. The editor of the Millennial Star was once
severely reproved for modifying the sermons of Mr. Kim    ball, so that they would not shock the English reader with
their vulgarity and indecency. He was sternly directed to
publish them literally as he received them. Mr. Kimball
acknowledges the most profound allegiance to " Brother
Brigham," and pays to him all the homage of the most hum    ble of the Mormons. He is wealthy, and is reported as hav   ing a greater number of wives than Brigham Young-how
many I am unable to say.   He is illiterate arid vulgar in
every sense of the word. Knowing the man by reputation,
I did not feel safer or more comfortable after receiving his
benediction.
Mr. Daniel H. Wells, the Third President, is a man of
considerably over fifty years, tall, spare, with a thin, sharp
face, and a prominent crooked  lose, presenting altogether
a very ungainly appearance for a Mormon President or Lieu    tenant-General.   In the latter capacity he was in the field
in command of the army of saints in T857-8, when they
T.-...
i82 
AND MORMON DIGNITARIES.
occupied a position in Echo Canon, to which I have referred
in a previous chapter. I have not beenin the society of Mr.
Wells, but learn that he is quite illiterate, and is an honest
Mormon.
He is a much more moderate polygamist than either of
his colleagues-having only seven wives. They were all
taken from the humblest walks of life.
But few of the other leaders of the church are known to
fame, and I will not occupy space in referring to them, as I
have the three presidents.   Orson Hyde, John  Taylor,
George Q. Cannon and Orson Pratt, are probably the best
educated men among them. The last-named is regarded
as the philosopher of the church. I quoted him in my
last in explaining doctrinal points.  He is regarded with a
good deal of jealousy by the President, who in consequence
keeps him most of the time on missions, or other duty requiring him to be absent from Zion.
Orson Hyde is also regarded as a dangerous man. He
is a brilliant orator, and a good writer. His associates, who
are fearful and jealous on account of his abilities, and his
presumption sometimes in preaching in a way not very satisfactory to the President, style him the "big head." He is
said to have apostatized during the life of Smith, the first
Prophet, and afterward joined the church again.
The large majority of their preachers are exceedingly illiterate, and it is torturing to sit and hear their bad English,
when there is an entire absence of argument or point in their
remarks.
The masses should receive more notice than I can give
them in this article. Nine-tenths, if not nineteen-twentieths,
as I have before stated, are converts to the faith through the
labors of missionaries in England, Wales, Scotland and Denmark.  There are but few Germans among them, fewer
Irish, and still fewer Americans, though the principal officers are natives of this country, and Brigham manages always
to keep it so.
I must add a few words about the people as they are
found here.   After settling in Utah, whatever may have
I83 
MORMON WORSHIP
been their previous pursuits, the people with great una nimity turn their attention to agricultural pursuits, and
raising of  cattle.   It constitutes them a  more   inde pendent people, and indeed such is necessary, as there
is but little market for manufactured  articles.   They
live upon the products of their farms, or what they use that
is not produced there, some article that is, is traded for it.
I imagine that there are many Mormons who have been
several years in Utah who have never seen a greenback or
piece of coin during their residence there.
Notwithstanding their industry and thriftiness, they re main poor, because of the little sale there is, for their produce,
and the tax of the church upon every thing. One-tenth of
all the profits of the merchant, of the pay of the laborer,
and of the products of the farmer, go directly into the tithing office. This rule is universal, and knows no exception.
Of the honesty and uprightness in business transactions
and general good moral character of the masses, particularly
in the smaller settlements, I can speak as complimentary as
I can of their industry and frugality.
Some of my lady readers would be pleased,I have no doubt,
to read a description of the more prominent of their sex;
but I am unable to give that from personal observation, or
association with them. When I called upon the President
his courtesy and hospitality did not extend to an invitation
to visit a few of the Mrs. Youngs or his daughters. I will,
however, give a description of Amelia, the last wife of Brigham, as drawn by Mrs. Wait. Before doing so I would
with all deference to the author suggest that it be received
cumgrano salis. It is not only extravagant, but parts of it
inconsistent with her own delineations of the character of
Brigham given elsewhere in the same book. She says:
"Amelia Folsom is a native of Portsmouth, New Hampshire. She is tall, well formed, with light hair and gray
eyes, and regular features. She is quite pale, owing to ill
health.  Has but little refinement of manner.   When at
the theatre sitting in the king's box with her husband, the
observed of all observers, she may be seen eating apples,
184 
AND MORMON DIGNITARIES.
throwing the skins abouf, chatting with Brigham, and occasionally levelling her glass at some one in the assembly.
Site plays and sings with indifferent skill and taste.  She
was for a long time unwilling to marry the President, but he
continued his suit with a pertinacity worthy of a better
cause; and by repeated promises of advancement made to
herself and  her parents, finally succeeded.   For  several
months he urged his suit, during which time his carriage
might be seen almost any day standing at her father's door,
for hours at a time.  He told her she was created expressly
for himself, and could marry no one else, on pain of everlasting destruction. She plead, protested, and wept, but he
persevered, and at length, when all other arguments failed,
he told her he had received a special revelation from heaven
on the subject. She had always believed in Mormonism,
and had been taught to have faith in revelation.'Amelia,'
he said,' you must be my wife. God has revealed it to me.
You cannot be saved by any one else. If you will marry
me I will save you and exalt you to be a queen in the celestial world; but if you refuse you will be destroyed, both
soul and body!'
"The poor girl believed in this impostor, and yielding to
his wishes became his wife. For several months after her
marriage Amelia was sad and dejected, but of late she has
rallied, and appears the gayest of the gay.
*        *        *        *        *        *
"Amelia is evidently living under constraint, and acting an
assumed character. She is playing the r6le of a happy wife
with a broken heart. At the time of her marriage her
heart had been given to another to whom she should have
been married. That she compromised her character in
marrying Young under these circumstances, is a fact too no.
torious to be concealed.
"Nevertheless, Amelia stands the recognized queen of the
harem. She leads the ton and is the envied woman of the
saints. Thousands bow low as she passes, and think themselves happy to receive her passing recognition.  [This is
literally ridiculous and untrue; no more homage is paid to her
9*
I85 
MORMON WORSHIP, &c.
than to any other woman.] She is now a queen, and is to be
a goddess in the celestial world. The new wife is sometimes
restive and impatient, and treats her liege lord shabbily.
She is at times notional and imperious, and somewhat
coquettish-to all of which her husband submits with good
grace for the present and pets her as a child.
*       *        *        *        *       *
"The theatre was dedicated by prayer and a grand ball.
This was in the winter of I862-63. Brigham led off in the
dance with Amelia, and all was smiles and sunshine. On
another occasion he honored another of the women with
his hand for the first cotillon. This so displeased Amelia
that she re,used to dance with him at all. He ccaxed, she
shrugged her shoulders and shook her head. It was only
after much solicitation on his part that she granted her forgiveness and consented to dance with him.
*       *        *       *        *        *
"Amelia  is tyrannical, and rules the women  of the
harem with a stronghand. PoorEmmeline (she nextpreceded
Amelia as the favorite) is quite broken-hearted. Naturally
very sensitive, she lives to drag out a miserable life."
In fact, all the women are unhappy and miserable.  A
common remark in reply to the usual salutation is, "Oh, I've
got the blues to-day."
One of the noted characters among the Mormons that I
have not mentioned is Porter Rockwell, said to have been
the leader of the Danites, or " Avenging Angels." It is
represented that this band was employed in making way
with such as became obnoxious to the Mormon hierarchy.
That many have disappeared mysteriously, or been "killed
by the Indians" when the Indians were committing no depredations, cannot be doubted, but whether or not Porter
Rockwell has the blood of such victims on his skirts I cannot say. I think it doubtful whether he is more guilty than
many others. He does not look like a murderer, and it is
my impression that the Danite Band has been a good deal
of a bugbear. Gentiles feared the Destroying Angels as
negroes in  our Southern  cities. fear the  doctors  after
186 
HOW MORMONISM, &c.
dark. I would not have the reader infer from this that I
believe the Mormons above such acts,.for on that subject I
have something to add in my next, but I doubt if Porter has
been more guilty than others. The weight of opinion with
Gentiles in Utah is against me in this particular.
Porter Rockwell has become exceedingly fond of whiskev in these latter days, and but seldom visits the city without getting drunk. On such occasions he manifests none
of that violence which one might suppose would then almost certainly exhibit itself in one so desperate as he is
represented to be. When drunk he is perfectly harmless,
and the exuberance of vitality on such occasions is relieved
by loud shouts, which may be heard for squares. He is
otherwise orderly and well-behaved, even when drunk. He
wears his hair long, and a friend informed me that he has
not cut it since the murder of Joseph Smith, and says he
will not until he has avenged his death upon the man who
shot him. He may be more especially the avenging angel
of Joseph the martyr, if not one in general.
CHAPTER XX.
CRIMES OF THE MORMONS AND HOW MORMONISM MAY
BE ERADICATED.
THE leaders of the Mormon Church claim to be tolerant;
but they are,so only so far as their tolerance may conduce
to their interests. That they have been guilty of rigid persecution of those whose acts seemed to endanger the success of their corrupt sect, and that they have been prompted
by malice and desire for revenge in perpetrating the grossest crimes, are indisputable facts.
187 
HOW MORMONISM
One of the most cowardly and bloody massacres that
I have seen recorded took place on the tenth of September,
1857, at Mountain Meadows, a valley in a sparsely settled
country, about three hundred miles south of Salt Lake City.
The history of this horrible tragedy is briefly as follows:
In the summer of 1857, a large train, with emigrants
for California, consisting of men, women and children to the
number of about one hundred and forty persons, passed
through Salt Lake City, and proceeded southward on
the usual route to Los Angelos. When they reached the
locality where the bloody tragedy I am about relating was enacted, their stock was first run off by
what appeared to be Indians, but really Mormons disguised
as such. Their enemies making hostile demonstrations,
the emigrants got together their wagons, and throwing up
earth about them made a work of defence. Their assailants
occupied the hills around, and fought them for several days
without gaining any advantage. Finding it impossible to
capture them without serious loss, they resorted to strategy
and deception. Several prominent Mormons took a wagon
and went around so as to approach the emigrants from the
head of the meadows, and as they did so exhibited a white
flag. The emigrants recognizing white men in the wagon
allowed them to approach, and held up a little girl dressed
in white to answer the signal. The Mormons entered the
fort. They represented that they had talked with the " Indians," and found them very furious-determined to capture the party at all hazards; but that they (the Mormons)
would negotiate with the "Indians" for terms of surrender
if it was desired. They were requested to do so, and after
a short absence returned with the " Indians'" alternativethe surrender of everything, and their lives would be spared.
In addition to the purported agreement on the part of the
assailants, as their part of the treaty, not to injure the emigrants personally, the Mormon negotiators proposed to
furnish an escort of forty armed men to conduct them
back to the settlements.   Harsh as were the terms, they
were accepted i the presence of helpless women and children
188 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
doubtless influencing the emigrants in their decision. The
escort arrived, and the unsuspecting emigrants abandoned
everything, and marched out of their fort. The women
and children were in front, the men behind them, and the
guard in the rear of all.  In this order they marched a short
distance, when at a given signal the "Indians" rushed upon
the party, shooting dead by the first volley, the men and afterward the women and children, except seventeen of the
latter who were supposed to be too young to tell the tale of
this horrid butchery.   No injury was sustained by the escort.
Judge Cradlebaugh very graphically describes this massacre in a speech he delivered in the House of Representatives, when a delegate from Nevada Territory. The Judge
appends to the speech the affidavits of a number of individuals, that convict, beyond all question, the Mormons as the
perpetrators of this crime.   The evidence of their guilt
may be summed up as follows: First, the statements of
friendly Indians, giving the particulars so minutely, and so
in accordance with known facts, as to be of themselves very
strong evidence. They explained how the Mormons disguised themselves, and pointed out the place where they assumed the disguise.   Second, the testimony of apostate
Mormons, who resided in the locality, and knew of the plans
of the murderers, and how they were executed. Third, the
testimony of some who actually participate] in the crime,
and afterward went to Judge Cradlebaugh at night, being
afraid to do so by daylight, and gave a full account of the
horrible affar.  These parties offered to go before a court
of justice, and testify to the facts if they could be guaranteed protection in their lives after doing so. The statements
of these parties corroborated the statements of the Indians.
Fourth, the statement of the children who escaped, who
were old enough to observe and remember. In speaking of
these children the  Judge remarked:   "I  recollect one
of them, John Calvin Sorrow, after he found he was
safe, and before he was brought away from Salt Lake City,
although not then nine years of age, sitting in a contempla
I89. 
HOW MORMONISM
tive mood, no doubt thinking of the extermination of his
family, saying, "Oh, I wish I was a man! I know what I
would do.   I would shoot John D. Lee; I saw him shoot
my mother, and I shall never forget how he looked."
In addition to what has been stated already Major (after ward Major-General) Fitz-John Porter, Assistant Adjutant General of Gen. A Sidney Johnston, in his official report,
directly charges this crime upon the Mormons; and Mr. A.
Forney, Superinteident of Indian Affairs, after a most mi nute and careful investigation, arrived at the conclusion that
the concoctors and principal perpetrators of the massacre
were Mormons, the Indians acting only a secondary part.
Brigham Young, who was at the time Superintendent of
Indian Affairs in the territory, Mr. Forney not succeeding
him until I859, made no allusion to the massacre wh ch was
so manifestly his duty to have done, if the Indians partici pated at all, in his annual report. Nor did he for a long
time refer to it in the pulpit, and when he did so, of course
it was to deny the guilt of the Mormons.
Any amount of presumptive evidence might be cited that
points to the guilt of the Mormons; but their complicity as
well as their responsibility for the Mountain Meadow massacre, is a fact too well substantiated to admit of a doubt by
an impartial mind, and will ever live in history a foul stigma upon the characters of the Mormon leaders.
Some years after the horrible murder, General Carlton
marched a column of troops by the locality, when he found
the bones of the slain still bleaching upon the meadow.
Here and there lay a skull, with the long hair attached, indicating the sex of the murdered, and interspersed with the
others were the small bones of the children. Even then,
an officer declares the sight to have been horrible and sickening. The General had these bones collected and buried,
and over the spot he made a mound from which was raised
a wooden cross, and on it he placed the inscription: "Vengeance is mine, and I will repay, saith the Lord." Not long
afterward Brigham Young visited the locality, and about
the same time the rude monument was demolished.
I9o 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
As to the perpetration of other crimes in the same locality, by the same parties, I will refer again to the speech of
Judge Cradlebaugh. On this subject he remarks:
" Sitting as committing magistrate, complaint after complaiiit was made before me of murders, and robberies.
Among these I may mention as particularly and shockingly
prominent the murder of Forbes, the assassination of the
Parishes and Poster, of Jones and his mother, of the Aiken
party, of which there were six in all, and worst and darkest
in the appalling catalogue of blood, was the cowardly and
cold-blooded butchery and robbery at the Mountain Meadows."
That these crimes might be brought before the law, and
the perpetrators punished, the Judge established a court in
the vicinity, with military protection, and impannelled a
grand jury of Mormons, of course, as there were no other
residents to compose it, and their attention was called to the
cases before alluded to; but "the jury thus instructed,
though kept in session two weeks, utterly refused to do anything, and were finally discharged as an evidently useless
appendage of a court of justice." This jury furnishes an
example of the fact, to which I have elsewhere referred,
that a Mormon jury would not convict a Mormon prisoner.
But Judge Cradlebaugh was determined to leave nothing
undone that was in his power to do, to bring the criminals
to punishment; and as the grand jury would not find a
"bill," he decided to issue bench-warrants, which  were
placed in the hands of the marshal, aided by a military
posse, when a general stampede took place among the Mormons; and, says the Judge, "what I want most particularly
to call your attention to as a particularly noticeable fact, that
this occurred more among the church officials and civil
officers."
Another act of barbarity occurred in 1862. A band of
disaffected Mormons (disaffected so far as the rule of Brigham
was concerned) separated from the church under the leadership of one Morris, and were known as the Morrisites. He
established a settlement on the Weber River. A dispute
I9I 
HOW MORMONISM
arose between the Morrisites and Brighamites, as to the
authority of the latter to impose fines, and levy taxes upon
a people who claimed the same right to exercise an inde pendent government as had those who oppressed them.  For
some offence, the Morrisites resisted a civil officer of Brigham's government, when the official obtained a large armed
posse, and again visited the settlement to serve the writs.
Foolishly the Morrisites still resisted, and retaining the fanaticism they had acquired under Brigham, they were pre sumptuous enough to accept battle. Being very much in
the minority, they were compelled to surrender, and did so,
giving up their arms. The Mormon sheriff then rode into
their fort, inquired for Morris, when a poor old helpless
fanatic was pointed out to him, and drawing his pistol shot
him dead in cold blood. Two or three of the party were
murdered in the same way.
As late as last November, a most cowardly and dastardly
murder was committed in Salt Lake City, under circumstances which would seem to implicate the church authorities. The murdered man was a Dr. Robinson, a Gentile,
who had lived in the city for several years, and practiced
his profession as a physician; and the circumstances were
these: One evening, after the doctor had retired, two individuals called at his house, and requested his professional
services, representing that a friend had a fractured thigh.
The doctor immediately dressed, and started on what he
supposed a mission of mercy, and after proceeding a few
squares was shot through the head, and died shortly afterward, remaining unconscious from the time he received the
wound. Mrs. Robinson knew of the two men calling, but
did not know who they were. Notwithstanding the most
searching investigation on the part of the C(;hf Justice and
the Governor, no clue whatever could I e had:o the murderers.
The suspicious circumstances connected with Dr. Robinson's murder are these:   He had been for some time conducting a suit against the Mormon authorities for the possession of the land upon which the Warm Springs are lo
192 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
cated.   He  claimed a preemption right to the property,
which the Mormons refused to recognize, and the church,
or the city, or Brigham Young, or all combined, also claimed
the ownership, and held possession of the property. Taking
into consideration these facts, together with that of his being a Gentile, and a kind, gentle and popular man, without
personal enemies to the knowledge of any of his friends,
is well calculated to cast suspicion upon the Mormon authorities. The Gentiles who have lived longest in the city, and
ought to understand the people best, are strongly of the
opinion that there was complicity on the part of some of
those who every Sabbath occupy seats in the pulpit at the
Bowery.
On the other hand the Mormon press most violently denounce the murder, and Brigham Young, and the principal
of their merchants, have become subscribers for a reward
for the arrest of the murderers. This the anti-Mormons
pronounce to be in keeping with the acts of saints generally,
under such circumstances, and done to divert suspicion.
About the tinie of the Robinson murder, several other
citizens of Salt Lake narrowly escaped the severe vengeance
of the Mormons, for an offence which is the only one Dr.
Robinson is known to have committed against them-that
of claiming public lands in the vicinity of Zion.   These
lands have ilot been surveyed, nor brought into market, and
the parties that settled upon them considered that they were
subject to the same laws that govern other unsurveyed pub lic land.  Several small tracts of these were preempted and
occupied. Among other settlers was Dr. Williamson, who,
had erected a temporary building on a quarter section near
the Jordan. A raid was made on all such about the same
time, and their buildings destroyed. Some of the parties
came near being roughly handled,and among them the doctor,
who was caught, tied, and wrapped in an old tent, preparato ry to making a literal Jordan his entrance way into eternity;
but he was not the least disconcerted by their conduct, and
very coolly informed the mob that he would prefer that they
should "shoot him as they would a dog, rather than drowr
193 
HOW MORMONISM
him as they would a cat." Whether they admired his coolness,
so as to induce them to desist, or the whole was intended as a
scare, I am'unable to say. The doctor being unable to take
possession of iands in Zion took one of her fair daughters. I
afterward saw him married to Miss Carmichael, the apostate
poetess, to whom I have before alluded, and shaking off
the dust of the wicked city from their feet, the bride and
groom proceeded eastward to the States.
While the preemption excitement was rife, it was frequent ly the theme of pulpit discourses, and one Sabbath after noon, when a large congregation had assembled in the Bowery, Brigham alluded to this subject, and commenting upon
the acts of the Gentile settlers, remarked that if one of them
should go on his land (referring to land unlawfully granted
to him by the territorial legislature) he would  "Give him a
preemption to a small tract that would last him to the day
of judgment"-meaning that he should have a grave.  This
remark, considered in connection with the assassination of
Dr. Robinson, for an offence which the President declares
would justify murder, leads some the more strongly to suspect that the doctor's murder was by authority.
The Mormons are an enigma to the Christian world, and
the question "What holds together this strange people?"
has been asked me more than once, and the same question,
I have no doubt, has arisen in the minds of some who have
read these chapters.
It might be answered almost as briefly as propounded,
~' Their own infatuation, and the ability of Brigham Young,
as their leader."
With a view to enlighten the public who may feel any
interest in the matter, I have referred to the different features of their history as a sect, and to their character as individuals-to their virtues, as well as to their vices-and my
motives have been as little influenced by prejudice in one
instance as in the other. I have received no favors to prompt
words of praise; nor have I been injured to incite words of
condemnation. The conclusions which I may submit, are
drawn from a careful study of the people, and I would fain
194 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
hope that something contained in these chapters may tend
to promote the accomplishment of two great ends-the
removal of a disgrace from the nation, and the enlightenment
of an ignorant, deluded people.
I will endeavor to explain why I have answered the interrogatory about the unity of the Mormons as I have.
Several times already I have alluded to the masses-to their
deplorable ignorance, and religious enthusiasm. As a whole,
a more honest and conscientious people are not to be found,
nor a people so completely controlled by the will of one man.
Brigham Young is worshipped as a god, and considered as
tncapable of error.   He tells them they are the chosen people of the Almighty, and that the Mormon Church is ultimately to cover the face of the whole world. Not only
earthly possessions, but celestial glory, await the faithful,
and more particularly those who endure the afflictions of the
church, in this her hour of trial.  They are taught that the
Government is the enemy of the church, as are all individuals not within her pale. The people believe it all,and nothing that the Prophet requires is considered too great a sacrifice; and nothing that the instincts of their nature, and the
education of their whole lives teach them to beg crime, is
regarded as other than a virtue if enjoined by him. They
consider that they are doing God service in murdering helpless immigrant women and children, or becoming the assassin, in the dark hour of night, when their victim is on a
mission of mercy.
That they so understand their duty is evidenced in a conversation between Mr. Colfax and his companions, and
Brigham Young and his associates, on an occasion to
which  I have  once  before  alluded.   The  subject  of
polygamy was being discussed and their usual arguments in its defence —the practice of the ancient church,
and God's revelation to Joseph Smith-were advanced. In
explanation, one of the saints contended that their understanding of God's will was above all human law, and they
understood it to be His will that they should multiply wives.
A hypothetical case was then submitted, and the brother
-195 
HOW MORMONISM
asked if he should be taught that it was God's will for him
to kill his son, or his enemy, would he do so.   The reply
was prompt in the affirmative. Then how is God's will com municated? They believe, most implicitly, through their
Revelator,their President. His commands,to the Mormon,are
the commands of Heaven. If Brigham Young tells a saint
to murder his son, or his enemy, as a sacrifice, that saint
tells us he would do so. Where is greater infatuation than
this? or where more dangerous power in the hands ofone man?
I can more easily understand the people than I can un derstand their leader, and have been in doubt whether to re gard him as an impostor, or class him in the same category
as his followers.   The man viewed from one stand-point
would appear as honest in the discharge of a stern, religious
duty, and when viewed from another he would appearas an
impostor. There is but little doubt of his honesty when he
embraced Mormonism; and his devotion to the sect, when
there was no prospect of personal benefit in life following,even
in her darkest hours, when everything seemed to foreshadow
its destruction, cannot be accounted for on selfish motives.
But without discussing this question further I will admit
the possibility of his being sincere; but at the same time I
must believe him to be unscrupulous as to the means he
uses to accomplish his plans.  His acts must be upon that
corrupt principle, that the end justifies the means, and he
does what he knows to be evil with the hope that good may
result.  If he is honest in his present conceptions of right
and truth, such honesty must be the result of gradual education of his conscience. While I can conceive of the possibility of this, I cannot conceive of the possibility of a man
of Brigham Young's opportunities being always so morally
blinded. I think that, now, he may do much for expediency,
that would have been very repugnant to his ideas of propri
ety twenty years ago.
An impostor is dangerous only so far as he may be able to
carry his deception. In his practices he is controlled somewhat by reason, as to his surroundings; and is mindful of
the consequences of over-reaching probabilities, as deter
,96 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
mined by the judgments of the class upon whom he desires
to operate.   He sees the prospect of failure, if he neglects
to do so, and is controlled by a regard for law, which will
punish him, if violated. He avoids bringing his system into
collision with a stronger one, and will not defy a stronger
power.
But with the fanatic it is different. His reason is impaired.   He sees things from a different stand-point, and fails
to realize what is extravagant in his pretensions, and his extravagancies are often the cause of his success with the
weak and visionary. They see the unsoundness of his
reasoning, but are captivated by his enthusiasm, and apparent honesty of purpose.   He establishes a standard of his
own, and is uninfluenced by the opinions of others. A fanatic on a scientific theory may become ridiculous; while a
fanatic on religion may be dangerous as well as ridiculous.
His honest convictions of duty may lead him to commit
acts that are discountenanced by society, and punishable by
law; but he is governed by his ideas of accountability to a
higher law. He defies punishment, believing that any he
may receive willredound to his ultimate benefit. A religious fanatic, then, is more dangerous than an impostor, and
the extent to which he is dangerous is determined by his
power and influence. Brigham Young I consider a more
dangerous man, if honest, than he would be if an impostor.
Joseph Smith, I think it has been clearly proven, was an
impostor.   His success was not attributable to the plausibility of his dogmas, so much as to his enthusiasm, and
more than that, to the enthusiasm of the honest followers of
a dishonest leader. United with their fanaticism was the
cunning of Smith, which gave Mormonism its start; and
then following the martyrdom of their Prophet, as they regarded him, the zeal of this credulous people increased tenfold. The unfortunate murder of this Smith, has entailed
Mormonism on the country to the present day. Had he
lived ten years longer,in my  opinion, the sect which he
founded would be only a chapter in the history of the past.
Brigham Young is unquestionably a far abler leader than
I97 
HOW MORMONISM
was Joseph Smith. He has proven himselfa most extraordinary man. He has overcome obstacles that would have
disheartened the most sanguine. He removed his people
far away into a comparatively unknown country, and settled
on a barren waste, which was transformed into the most fertile and productive valley in the West. He shared in their
toils and privations when necessary,and afterward enriched
himself on their labor when opportunity offered. He has
been the greatest despot in the world, and at the same time
made his subjects believe him to be their greatest benefactor!
I have spoken of the honesty and infatuation of the people, and the influence of their leader over them. Another
cause operating to bind them together is their isolation, and
the ignorance in which they are kept alike of the teachings
of Christianity and civilization.  Is it strange, therefore,
that the Mormons have existed for so many years as they
have?
The existence of the sect I think will terminate with the
life of their able leader. This is the opinion of all observing people who have familiarized themselves with the history
of the Mormons.
But it is the duty of the Government, as well as the
Christian Church, to relieve the country of a sect sanctioning immorality and violating law.   While  the military
power might be used in punishing the guilty, and compelling a greater regard for the letter of the law, it can do
nothing in removing the delusions of the people; and the
introduction of punishment would be immediately followed
by increased fanaticism. To eradicate the evil the influences of Christianity are also required. While the Government needs the cooperation of the Church, the Church
equally needs the support of the strong arm of the Government. Let the Mormons be enlightened, their judgments
convinced of their error, and then protect them in their individual rights, as citizens of the United States, so as to
allow them to renounce their allegiance to Mormonism and
live independently of a sect that has controlled their consciences, as well as their lives, and the most favorable
,98 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
results will follow. An example of the practicability of
such measures, may be seen in the results of the labors of
an army chaplain at Camp Douglas, who exerted some
influence for good among the Mormons of Salt Lake, and
then they went to that post for protection. Give them
protection in their own homes, and ten times the amount of
good would follow the same labor.
Their infatuation is to a great extent attributable to their
ignorance, and their belief in Mormonism is not oftener
shaken because no access can be had to them.   That con viction of their error is not impossible, is further proved by
the dissensions that have occurred, notwithstanding the
persecutions these incurred.
The first of these took place in I852, through the influ ence of one Bishop Gladden, who became the!eader of
dissenters who were known as the Gladdenites.   As soon
as the existence of the party was known, the apostates, as
they were called, were most bitterly denounced, the people
instructed to discountenance them, and the Bishops ordered
to prevent them from preaching or holding meetings in their
wards. Taking it at its incipiency, by vigorous measures
Brigham succeeded in crushing out the organization.
Next was a party of seceders headed by John Morris, in
i86o-6i.  The  Morrisites became  more numerous than
the Gladdenites, and somrie of them still exist, though they,
too, were pretty well crushed out at the time of the fight
to which I before alluded when speaking of the murder of
their leader.
In I863 the most threatening movement in opposition to
the Brigham dynasty took place.  It was the preaching of
anti-polygamous Mormonism by the disciples of Joseph
Smith, son of the first Prophet. Joseph claims to be the
head of the Mormon Church, and his followers known as
the Josephites, and to these I have before alluded, also.
In I863 Smith sent two missionaries from Nauvoo to
Zion;  and  notwithstanding the  opposition of Brigham
Young, they went about preaching from house to house,
and in one winter obtained several hundred converts to
f99 
HOW MORMONISM
their branch of Mormonism, the majority of whom went
back to the States with the missionaries the following summer. Smith is preparing for a more extensive missionary
work in Utah next summer.
The slightest movement that threatens a loss of faith in
Brigham is denounced and discouraged in every possible
way. The Josephites are now his particular hatred, and he
declares such apostates to be "worse than those who damn
the Mormons and all Mormonism."
What I have already submitted is evidence that the
people may be convinced of their error, and the difficulty all
lies in reaching them with the truths of Christianity. To
elevate and save the immoral and degraded is a duty of the
Christian Church! To prevent and punish crime is a duty
of the Government! Brigham Young will interpose every
obstacle he may be capable of bringing in the way, to
thwart both in the discharge of these duties, but they may
all be overcome by a judicious and systematic course.   If
churches are built for public worship, Brigham will not
allow his saints to attend them.   If the missionary visits
the people from house to house, those who entertain him
will be marked, and perhaps punished. The people will
be publicly and privately cautioned to hold no fellowship
with missionaries, and Sabbath-schools will be discountenanced. These are some of the influences that will operate
against the success of a missionary enterprise; but where
is there a mission in this or foreign land that has not encountered similar difficulties?
There are several encouraging features that will be connected with an attempt to enlighten the Mormons. Not
least among them is the influx of a Gentile population into
the territory, and in this there is a very decided advantage
gained. The mere contact of the two classes will have a
wonderful effect in showing the moral, religious and physical advantages of a different life. Then another feature is
that the Government is committed to put down polygamy,
and in doing so the Church will obtain the important ally
which I have said was so necessary to secure tolerance. A
200 
MAY BE ERADICATED.
regard for the rights of individuals, rigidly required by
United States civil officers, with a military force to compel
respect, would secure this. Brigham Young may be defiant
now, but when he finds his people emerging from their present moral and political darkness, and contending only for
such rights and privileges as conform to the genius of our
institutions, and he sees the Government determined to protect them in these rights, his influence will have waned.
He then cannot cry "persecution and intolerance," as he
has so often done, for it will be manifest to the people that
the Government is protecting them from the persecution
and intolerance of a most intolerant leader.
The time for thG Church so take her stand and make
use of these aids, is now fast approaching. The completion
of the Pacific Railroad will usher in the fullness of that
time. If she fails to improve it, the responsibility for a
continuance of the present state of society in Utah, and
perhaps 9f strife and bloodshed that may follow, will to
some extent at least rest upon her.   Such opportunities as
the present are not often presented. I believe that nowhere
will more willing converts to true Christianity be found than
among the more sincere of the Mormons; and their enlightenment is more especially desirable because of their
aggressive work in error. They are in this respect different
from any other people among whom missionaries are sentto
labor. Their errors are not only inculcated upon their
children, and the sect increased by the multiplication of the
people among themselves by natural laws, but hundreds and
thousands are being led into error and added to their number every year, and numbers of women hopelessly degraded
by their practice of polygamy.
A minister in a prominent church in Washington once
remarked in a missionary sermon to his congregation that
the missionaries of" our rougher brethren," the Methodists,
are as the frontiersmen who cut down the forests, while
they followed on to grub out the stumps and cultivate the
fields; and again, he compared the former to the reapers in
the field, while the more refined followed on, and gathered
I0
201 
HOW MORMONISM
the scattering grain that the reapers had not bound in their
sheaves.   If this minister's ideas of the labors that pertained to certain branches of the Church are correct, then
it is to "our rougher brethren," particularly, that these remarks should be addressed. Let their frontiersmen or their
reapers go forth into Utah, and I would accept the latter
simile as the most applicable in this case, for instead of a
forest primeval to be levelled, are fields of error fertilized
and cultivated, now all white unto harvest, awaiting the
scythe of the reaper. There is work for both reaper and
gleaner. But the first great work should not be confined
to a denomination of Christians, but on it all the Churches
should unite their influences. That work is to secure the
cooperation of the Government with the Church.
The Rev. Mr. McLeod, of the Congregational Church,
to whom I have before referred as the chaplain at Camp
Douglas, who has done good in Salt Lake City, is now absent in the States, lecturing against Mormonism, and collecting funds for building a church. Something more than
the enterprise of one minister is required, and unsupported
he can do but little-less than when he held a commission
as chaplain. Moreover, though Mr. McLeod may be admirably suited for the work in other respects, his expositions and denunciations of Mormonism have made him so
obnoxious to the people as, in my opinion, to interfere with
the usefulness which otherwise his talents and energy would
insure.
Before concluding this already too long chapter on such a
subject by such a writer, I must add a few words on the abolition of polygamy. Referring to the writer, it is but justice to such officers to say that he is not a chaplain. That
may have been patent to most of the readers, but not to all.
The provision to be made for surplus wives is a subject
that requires thoughtful attention, in connection with the
abolition of polygamy. If the present law could be so
construed as to be prospective in its requirements, and forbid the future marrying of more than one wife, and not apply
to those who had a plurality of wives before its passage to
202 
THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS, &C. 203
put away all but their lawful wife, I think the evil could be
as effectually remedied in a few years. This would also
increase the opportunities of the Church in elevating the
standard of morality, at the same time that it labored to
satisfy the people that their church taught not only a
political evil, but a social, moral and natural one.
Polygamy has already degraded the woman, and for her
to continue as a duplicate wife until circumstances provided
a way for her to change her relation, I consider by far preferable to compelling the man to put her away to become
the subject of a public or a private charity.
CHAPT'ER XXI.
THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
THE several tribes of Indians living on the prairies, and
in the mountains of the West, are so similar in their habits,
and in their general traits of character, that I may not improperly speak of them all as one people, and refer to any
peculiarities of a single tribe that may occur to me as I
wi ite.
The tribes that came under my personal observation
during the march, of which I have given some account in
this work, were respectively the Ottoe, Pawnee, Sioux,
Cheyenne, Utes and  Shoshones.    The  first named  is
but the remnant of a tribe now living on an Indian
reservation in Kansas.   They are supposed to be more
nearly civilized than the others, being thrown in contact with
more whites, and to a very limited extent cultivate the soil.
They have not been hostile for a long time.
The Pawnees have also been greatly decimated by their
conflicts with the Sioux, who were vastly their superiors in
numbers, though for gallantry and skill in Indian warfare
t 
THE INDIANS OF THE
they did not surpass their unfortunate enemies. The Pawnees also occupy a reservation in the eastern part of
Nebraska, and may be no longer regarded as among the
hostile Indians of the plains.
The Sioux and Cheyenne roam over the prairies, bordering the mountains, and up into them, and the former claim
as their favorite hunting ground a portion of Dakota Territory, through which the Government has established, and
is endeavoring to protect an emigrant route. This they
refuse to give up, and in a large council at Fort Laramie
last June, no advantageous treaty for the possession of that
country could be made.
The Sioux tribe is the largest on the plains, and their hostilities to emigrants since the failure of the Indian Commission to treat with them satisfactorily on the occasion referred
to, will probably result in another Indian war next summer.
The tribe is divided into seven principal bands, who roam
from Minnesota to the Rocky Mountains, but each in a
somewhat circumscribed locality which they claim as their
own  hunting-ground.   In  consequence  of this division
of the tribe they sometimes callthemselves the Seven Council Fires. They have proved the most dangerous enemies
the white man has among the savages of the West.
In I854 they massacred Lieutenant Grattan, and thirty
men, without leaving a man of his party to tell of the massacre; and in the winter of i866-7 Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel Fetterman, Captain Brown and Lieutenant Grummond,
with over ninety men, shared a similar fate at the hands of
the same tribe, and such other Indians as had united with
them for murder and robbery.
The Utes range in and west of the Rocky Mountains,
from Bridger Pass as far west as Salt Lake City, and then
southward to  New  Mexico.   The Shoshone (or Snake)
tribe have their favorite hunting-ground in the Wind River
Valley, and travel south and west during the summer months.
These two tribes are now at peace with the white man, and
receive their annual presents from the Government. Only
204 
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
three years ago the Snakes were at war with the troops stationed in Utah, but after a severe battle on Bear River, in
which they were severely punished, and sustained a-great
loss, they in the dead of winter, and in an almost starving
condition, begged for peace, and for subsistence. When
they arrayed themselves against the white men in the territory, it was in opposition to the advice of their chief Washiki,
who is the finest specimen of an Indian I ever saw. He
abandoned the leadership of the tribe, rather than indulge in
a war which he knew must prove disastrous to the red man.
In their folly they elected another chief, and paid for it in
the disaster to which I alluded. During the war, Washiki,
with his squaws and a small party, camped in the vicinity of
Fort Bridger, and after its termination the tribe were only
too glad to reinstate him in his former official position.
The general appearance of the Indian, and his physique,
are too well understood to justify a description of them here.
I must add, however, that in stature and in physical strength
he fell far below my expectations. The Indians of the West,
who go to Washington on business with the Indian Bureau,
or to visit their " Great Father," and the noble-looking figures which appeared in Mr. Stanley's collection of paintings,
destroyed by fire in the Smithsonian Institute a few years
ago, are by no means representatives of the masses to which
I have just alluded. I have seen but one Indian, Washiki,
in all my travels, who could be classed with such as I referred to. In physical strength and muscular development they
are much the inferior of the average of white men, and will
never encounter them in single combat.
Let me write first about the squaws, though they are of
the degraded sex, as I have so much to say about their "lords,"
who are better known in western parlance as "bucks,"
that I might occupy all the space allowed for this chapter
without referring to them.
The beauty of the squaws, as I have observed them, is all
a myth. I have yet to see one bearing the slightest corn
parison in point of beauty with Pocahontas as she is describ.
ed and painted. I found the large majority of them exceed
205 
THE INDIANS OF THE
ingly homely and many horribly ugly.   This is the case
particularly with the old women, some of whom have the
most unsightly faces I ever saw on human forms; and to make
their appearance still more disgusting, are their filthy per sons and habits. They have no incentive to be otherwise,
for they are the most complete slaves of the men (not the
old squaws only, but all), and are required to do all manner
of drudgery. They dress and tan skins, prepare and dry
game, put up and take down lodges, transport them on the
animals they ride, catch and saddle the ponies of the men,
and ina word, do everything but hunt and fight. They are
not easily distinguished from the men at a distance, when
their features cannot be observed, and, indeed, many times
I have been unable to distinguish them by their fe,tures, or
in any other way, as the outer dress of both is alike-a buffalo-skin or a blanket. They are generally shorter and
broader than the men, and formed not unlike the negress.
The dress of the female consists in an unnameable garment,
extending from the neck to the knees, open under each arm
nearly to the waist, and not in front or behind, which seems
rather inconvenient when nursing their children; a pair of
short leggins, the moccasin, and the robe or blanket. They
ride in the same manner that men do. Both sexes have
their heads uncovered, as a rule, though sometimes the men
wear old hats obtained from soldiers or immigrants, and both
wear their hair long, which is invariably thick and black.
The women, particularly, discard all covering for their
heads except their robes, or blankets. These they pull
over them in the same way the men do. I have seen
squaws who have left their tribes, to live with white men,
who have been dressed like ladies in every other respect,
but refuse, under all circumstances, " a love of a bonnet;"
and though they may wear a fine delaine dress and cashmere
shawl, the latter will be pulled up to answer instead of a
hat.
The squaws carry their pappooses in a variety of contrivances. Some fold their blankets in a way to form a
bag on their back, large enough to hold the offspring in an
2o6 
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
upright position, with its head out; others have a leather or
skin pouch, in which the babe is carried, hung to the back
of his mother; and others carry them in the same position,
in a case of bark or dried stiff skins, with only an opening
over the face. This contrivance i esembles a metallic burialcase more than anything else I can think of now.
When the hopeful cries, the mother pacifies it by swaying herself from side to side, or back and front.  Walking
or riding, as a rule, they are carried on the back, but I have
seen a pappoose, in a skin pouch, suspended from the pommel of a saddle, like a pistol and holster. It is a common
thing for an Indian mother to make a long journey, and
carry her infant in some one of these ways when it is only
a few days old.
When the mother gives birth to her child it is not uncommon for no third person to be present. She then lives
in a hut, or lodge, by herself, until the child is twenty-five
or thirty days old, when she takes it to its father, who then
sees his child for the first time.   Chastity is observed by
the young squaw and guarded by the mother, because it increases the chances of her becoming the wife of a "big
Indian," rather than from any moral restraint. Infidelity
is not co — non among wives, and when it occurs is often
followed by severe punishment to both guilty parties. The
lover may be slain, but it is not uncommon to appease the
anger of the injured husband by the present of a pony or
other valuable gift. 
Indian children of a few years, of both sexes, I think, are
more attractive in appearance than when they become
older. They are generally treated very kindly, and soon
become "spoiled children" in the fullest sense of the word.
When a youngster of six or eight strikes his father it is
regarded as a hopeful sign of coming bravery, and is spoken
of accordingly.  The boys are early taught that their mother
is to be their slave.
The men are hunters and warriors only. They consider
it degrading to the sex to do any kind of manual labor. I
think there is combined with this pride a laziness, which, of
207 
TiHE INDIANS OF THE
itself, m:ght account for their habits as long as they have
their women with them to do the work. This, they think,
is her sphere of life. I was amused one day at the conduct
of an intelligent and rather fine-looking warrior, when asked
by one of the ladies ill our party if he loved his wife. The
fellow understood and spoke English. The idea seemed
quite absurd to him, and laughing and shaking his head, he
turned to his father-in-law, who was sitting next to him,
and said something very amusing to him also, probably that
the pale-faced women were big fools to think of their sex
being loveable creatures.
The men and boys are all good riders and prize their
ponies very highly, though their ill-treatment of the animals
seem rather inconsistent with real fondness for them.
Their sporting arms and war weapons are of great variety,
from the Henry repeating rifles and Colt's revolvers to
their primitive weapons, the bow and arrow and the lance.
The large majority are armed only with the latter. In
their hands the bow and arrow is decidedly the most effective, and these they use with great skill, shooting their
arrows in rapid succession, with remarkable accuracy, and
a force that will send them entirely through the body of a
buffalo. The arrows are sometimes poisoned, for war purposes, by the tribes east of the mountains. This is done by
touching their tips in the poison of the rattle-snake, and
some vegetable poison they also use for the purpose, but I
have been unable to ascertain what it is. Their bows vary
in size. The Indians who always go mounted, have short
ones, say three feet long, while some of the tribes in the
West, who fight on foot, have them nearly twice as long.
Each tribe makes its arrows of a particular kind of wood,
or in a peculiar way, so that the tribe can be told by its
arrows.
Scalping is still practiced among all the tribes, and not
only the warrior who is slain in battle, but the lonely Indian
hunter or the poor immigrant, who falls by an arrow from
the bow of his wily foe, have their bodies mutilated in the
same way. Nor are the dead only subjected to this barbar
208 
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
ous practice, but a wounded enemy is scalped when he is
supposed to have a mortal wound, or one such may be
given him after the process. Sometimes these wounds do
not prove fatal, and the injured party recovers, minus a
slice of the skin and hair along the top of his head. The
most approved way of scalping is to take  only a small
piece of skin from the occiput, to which the " scalp-lock"
is attached.   I saw a fresh scalp last fall taken by a Ute
from an Arrapahoe. The brave who took it seemed to
have been rather greedy, as it included the entire skin of the
head. It was stretched out on a little hoop of willow, and
the squaw of the owner carried it, and appeared to be very
careful of the precious property.   Whatever size or shape
the trophy may be, it must contain the scalp-lock. This
is to prevent fraud. If some such precaution were not
taken, a dishonest warrior might cut up one into a dozen.
Scalps with long hair attached are more highly prized, and
used in decorating the person of the brave who owns them.
The insignia of rank is often made from these, and consists
of portions of the scalp attached to the shoulder, or on the
fringe of the leggings, &c.
A "scalp-dance" is no ordinary occasion of rejoicing; it
occurs after the warriorreturns to his friends with his trophies.
If, after a battle, in which some of the tribe may have
been killed, the mourning of the relatives is turned into rejoicing, at the evidence of revenge for their slain, and all
are merry alike. The scalps not used as ornaments are
carefully preserved by the owners as evidence of their
prowess, and if at any time a dispute as to the bravery of a
warrior arises, he produces his trophies of battle, or coldblooded murder, as the case may be.
Chieftainship is not always hereditary, though the son of
a "Big Chief," the head of a tribe, is an under-chief by
virtue of his birth, but at the death of his father he does
not succeed him as the head of the tribe unless he has arrived at proper age, and has exhibited such discretion and
valor as to entitle him to the position.  Tribes are divided
into bands, and over each is a chief; and bands have also
I 0'"
209 
THE INDIANS OF THE
their subdivisions, with their chief. At the death of the head
of a tribe, the other chiefs select from their number his
successor, giving preference to the child-chief, all other
qualifications being equal.
The medicine-man is probably, next to the chief, the
most important and distinguished member of the tribe to
which he belongs.  He is doctor, sorcerer, priest, and al together a wonderful man.   For the cure of disease he re lies principally upon the laying-on of Lands; and I hope,
for the benefit of sick savages, he is more successful than
the Mormons are in the same practice. These manipula tions are made with many gestures, amidst all kinds of
sounds on the part of the persons present lookirg on, as well as
the manipulator. They use also certain herb infusions, the
principal virtue of which is supposed to be imparted by the
ceremony which goes on during the preparation. Some of
the tribe treat their diseases indiscriminately by taking a hot
steam-bath, and a cold plunge immediately afterward.
They construct a little bath-house with twigs, and throw
their blankets over it, or put their blankets over their heads,
taking some very hot stones under them, pour on the water,
which causes the steam to arise, and the perspiration to pour
out upon the skin, when they will come out of their steambaths, which are taken by a stream, and plunge into the
cold water.
If the disease can be localized, the most reliable remedy
under such circumstances is for the medicine-man to apply
his mouth and suck (imagine the shudder of the writer) the
skin or diseased part to remove the morbid humors. If the
patient is suffering from a wound, that process is almost
certainly gone through with. They not unfrequently practice a little chicanery, and work upon the imagination of
the patient by producing an insect, or a bit of stone, or almost anything, while they are going through their cantations
and manipulations, which they had secreted about their person, and then present it to the patient with the representation that it is the embodiment of the disease that has beenextracted from the system. Why isn't this as justifiable
210 
PLAINS AND MO)UTNTAINS.
and good a practice, as to make people believe tnat they are
cured by little sugar-pills marked aconit., belladonna, nux
vomica, chinco., etc., upon the miniature vials that contain
them. The medicine-men of the Sioux tribe have a sacred
language which is unintelligible to the masses. As I said
before, the medicine-man is a great deal thought of by the
Indians, and they, like people generally with pale faces,
are disposed to attribute a good deal of the work of nature
to the doctor's remedies.
The tribes I have seen are not the inveterate smokers
the nation have the reputation of being, but all seem to indulge, more or less. Pure tobacco is never smoked by the
Indian, and with many no tobacco at all, but the dry bark
of the young willow-tree. Their kilikinnik is supposed to
consist of a mixture of one-third tobacco and the remainder
of willow-bark or dried sumach leaves.  I find the addition
of these substances in smaller proportions is a great improvement to the ordinary smoking tobacco, according to my
taste.
The Indian smokes differently from the white man, and
inhales the fumes into his lungs, hence he cannot tolerate
the pungency of our tobacco.   I have seen three or four
coughing and contorting their faces after a puff or two from
the pipe of an officer, who passed it to them as an evidence
of friendship.
The Indian is not named in childhood, but assumes a
name as he grows up for some distinguishing feat or peculiar
characteristic, and changes it from time to time as more fitting ones are suggested. Some of their names are very odd
and some quite obscene.
The wife is sometimes'"wooed and won," as if there
was something of sentiment in the Indian character, but oftener purchased without thewooing. When the desired object is particularly attractive, and of a good family, the courting and purchasing both may be required. Indians are polygamists, and when a brave or chief desires to multiply the
number of his wives he often marries several sisters, if they
can be had, not because of any particular fancy he may have
21x 
THE INDIANS OF'-T'HE
for any but the one who first captivated him, but because he
thinks it more likely to have harmony in the household
when they are all of one family. Not even squaws can live
happily together when each may have a part interest in the
man as their husband jointly.   Polygamy is inconsistent
with the female character, whether in barbarism or civilization.  As many skins as they can transport on their ponies,
of the game killed while on their hunts, are dressed by the
squaws and then taken to some trading-post, a military station, or elsewhere, and bartered off for such articles as are
most useful to them; and I am sorry to say that powder,
lea]l and caps, too often, and in too large quantities, are the
articles traded for. They are willing to allow much more,
proportionately, for ammunition, than any other articles.
Buffalo robes, bear-skins, and deer and antelope skins, are
the ones they generally bring in, though some of the tribes
trap or shoot the beaver, otter, etc., expressly for their
furs.
The Indian dead are disposed of in several ways. Some
of the tribes, the Sioux among them, place the body on an
elevated platform in an unfrequented place; others bury it
in the ground, and others hide it in crevices of the rocks, &c.
All that pertained to the dead, while living, in the way of
robes, blankets, weapons, cooking utensils, &c.,are also deposited with the body. In some instances the horse is buried
with the dead body of his former rider placed in the saddle.
They believe that the spirit of the deceased wanders off to
distant hunting-grounds; and as it may have to pass over a
country where there is no game, a quantity of dried buffalo
meat is usually left with the body for its subsistence while
on the journey.  With tribes that do not bury horse and
rider together, a horse belonging to the deceased is usually
shot that his spirit may inot have to go afoot a long journey
to his new hunting-ground.   A  gentlemen informed me
that recently he was passing a camp of the Snakes, when he
saw three of their finest horses shot, and upon inquiring why
it was done, learned that an Indian who had owned them
died the night before. When a married brave dies, his squaw
212 
PLAINS AND MOUNT'AINS.
subjects herself to all manner of torture as evidence of the
sincerity of her grief. They often lacerate their bodies in
the most horrid manner, and subject themselves to various
other kinds of suffering. The squaw, like her sex generally, is proud of her hair, but on such occasions it is cut close
to the head. The tribes that bury their dead are careful to
leave nothing that would indicate a grave, though the friends
observe landmarks by which they can ever afterward tell
the exact spot where they lie. These places of sepulture
are held as sacred as a Christian nation's, and when a tribe
is again passing such localities, they will make a detour,
rather than go the more direct road, by the resting-place of
their dead, while the relatives leave the trail and go alone
to the spot, and there repeat their mourning as if in the presence of the departed.  They also leave their presents for
the dead of such little trinkets as he most prized before he
departed to his new hunting-ground. How beautiful this
practice of a barbarous nation, which savors so much of the
finer sensibilities of the most enlightened!
The Indians are almost universally fond of whiskey, and
have a strong propensity for gambling. They will risk at
cards almost everything they own, and if unsuccessful appear quite satisfied with their loss.  I wonder if there is
something in the atmosphere of the Far West that makes
gambling so general. Upon that hypothesis I might account for the habits of a good many of my pale-faced
friends.
The  Indians have a peculiar way  of defining time.
When they wish to designate an hour of the day they point
to the position the sun should be in at that time. The
number of days is the number of sleeps. Ask a Shoshone how far it is from Salt Lake City to Fort Bridger, and
he will place the side of his head upon the palm of his hand,
signifying sleep, and hold up four fingers, meaning that number of days or sleeps will be passed on the journey. Their
next division of time is the number of moons, instead of
our months, and the seasons are indicated by the state of
vegetation, &c. For instance, spring is when the grass be
21I3 
THE INDIANS OF THE
gins to grow, and autumn when the leaves fall from the
trees, while the years are indicated as the number of
seasons.
There is a language of signs common to all the tribes, by
which one tribe may communicate with another, without
being able to speak or understand its dialect.  Each tribe is
known by some particular sign. The Pawnee, called by
some the Wolf Tribe, are known by the sign of placing by the
side of the head the two forefingers of the right hand,
representing a wolfs ears. The Cheyenne, or Cut Wrists, are
known by the sign of drawing the edge of their hand across
the left wrist; the Sioux, or Cut-Throats, by drawing the
edge of the hand across the throat; the Utes have a complicated sign denoting "Living in the Mountains; " the
Shoshone, or Snake Tribe, by making a motion similar to
that made by the snake.
The principal diet of the Indians of the West is meat,
which they obtain by hunting wild game, and eat it fresh
in season or where it abounds, and dry it for use when
away from their hunting-grounds. They also make use of
some varieties of wild vegetables, but none of the tribes that
I have named cultivate the soil. They by no means despise
many articles of the white man's diet. Of coffee they are
fond, but sugar they prefer to eat alone and undissolved, and
seem to regard it as a very great delicacy.
The Indian is noted for his powers ofendurance, of both
fatigue and physical pain. A gentleman recently cited to
me a remarkable example of the latter, which he witnessed
near Fort Laramie last summer. The representatives of a
large number of tribes had collected there, with a view  to
enacting the farce of a treaty. When riding out near the
post one day, he observed a large collection of Indians apparently enjoying very much some exhibition that was then
taking place, and upon approaching the spot he saw Indians
inflicting upon themselves the severest torture to prove their
fitness to rank as warriors of the tribe.  The process was
this: a buck Indian would gather up in one hand as much
of the skin and flesh as he could grasp over the pectoral
?- 14 
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
muscle (the large muscle on the side of the chest) and ther
transfix it with a knife, making an incision large enough to
pass in a stout stick; to this stick was attached a rope with
the other end fastened to the top of a pole set in the ground.
When this was done the Indian would pull back until he
tore out the stick through the skin and flesh, and if unable
to accomplish it by a steady pull, he would forcibly throw
himself backward, hoping by a sudden jerk to overco me
the resistance of the tissues. The friend who observed all
this represented that in one instance the savage had transfixed the muscle so deeply as to be unable, without assistance to tear it through, so he had his pony fastened to him,
and made to pull until he was liberated; when his conduct
was applauded by the loudest shouts of his companions
After subjecting themselves to this ordeal, they ranked
higher in the tribe, and seemed very proud of their new
honor.
(Japtain Burton, when he visited the Far West in I 860, in
speaking of the power of endurance in the Indian, says:
" their fortitude and endurance of pain is the result, as
in the prize-fighter, of undeveloped brain." If the Captain
should again visit this country, and be invited to the
floor of the House of Representatives, he might not be
very cordially received by all its members.
There are things connected with the habits of the Indian
I might mention, but I have already extended this chapter
longer than I intended, and I must now add something
about his character and conduct toward the whites who
chance to be in his country.
" The noble red man" is a prolific subject for the novelist, who knows nothing about his real character, and the
"Poor Indian" is made to live in song very prejudicial to
the character of those who have to deal with him.
The settler in the Far West, and the immigrantjourneylng
across the continent, regard the red-skin in a very different
light from the novelist and the poet.   I know of bit two
or three Indians of the Rocky Mountain tribes who are
supposed, even by the pseudo-humanitarians in the vi
215 
THE INDIANS OF THE
cinity of Salt Lake City, to possess a single trait of true
nobility. The character of Pocahontas in saving the captive Smith, is so out of keeping with the character of squaws
of the present day, that if I regard her as a specimen of her
nation, then I must consider the squaws now debased beyond
hope of improvement. But it is now.made to appear that
Captain Smith's story of Pocahontas saving his life was all
a fabrication, and that she possessed none of the remarkable
feelings of kindness, or an) other of the good traits generally
attributed to her; that she was a common indecent squaw,
perhaps of more than ordinary attractiveness of appearance, and lionized in England after she became the wife
of an Englishman.
The Indian does everything through motives of policy.
He has none of the kindlier feelings of humanity in him.
He is as devoid of gratitude as he is hypocritical and
treacherous. He observes a treaty or promise only so long
as it is dangerous for him to disregard it, or for his interest,
in other ways, to keep it.  His selfishness is unequalled by
any other people, and is often manifested in the most unnatural ways. For instance: when a tribe is moving, a
"buck" may have two or three extra horses running loose,
but he will not allow a brother, or sister, or mother, to ride
one of them, though they may be journeying afoot. Cruelty
is inherent in them, and is early manifested in the young
pappoose torturing birds, or any little animal that may fall
into his hands, and he seems to delight in it; while the
pleasure of the adult in torturing his prisoners is most unquestionable.
These are usually inflicted by the squaws, because it is
supposed to be more mortifying and humiliating to be tortured by a woman. They are inveterate beggars, but never
give unless with a view to receive a more valuable present
in return, and then their's is likely to be reclaimed. Hence
we hear our children say," I wouldn't make an Indian gift."
They lie from principle, as it were. To sum up the whole
in a word, they possess every trait of human character that
is despicable, and no trait that is noble.
zx6 
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
The white man he has been taught is his enemy, and he
has become the most implacable enemy of the white man.
His most fiendish murders of the innocent is his sweetest
revenge for a wrong that has been done by another.
At Fort Laramie, last summer, as I have before stated,
there was an Indian Commission sent out by authority of
the Interior Department at Washington, to treat with the
Sioux and other hostile tribes. The president of the Com-'
mission was a Quaker gentleman with a heart overflowing
with the milk of human kindness, and he went there, as
he said, to fight the Indian with a new weapon-" Christian
love." To those who understand the Indian character, and
saw of what material the commission was composed, it was
evident what would be the result of the grand council
which had been so much talked about on the plains; and
what has been the result?  It is certainly not very encouraging to the commission. There have been more murders
by the Indians of the tribe represented in that council than
ever before occurred in the same length of time. Unprotected immigrants have been massacred; telegraph stations
destroyed, and the operators and guard made to share the
same fate as the immigrant; five officers of the U. S. Army,
and nearly one hundred and fifty men, have been murdered;
and the life of an individual is not safe outside the stockades
of the forts in the country the commission came to treat for
the possession of.
Who were the Indians that met at Laramie on the occasion of the treaty?  The  best authorities represent that
they were the old men, squaws, and their children, who
made it an occasion for eating Government rations and
drinking sutler whiskey, while the warriors of the tribes
were out hunting and plundering, so as to secure a sufficient
st6ck of necessaries preparatory to open hostilities that were
to follow. An idea of the spirit manifested by even those
who had assembled, might have been formed when an old
chief comes forward with a pipe in one hand and a bow and
arrow in the other, and offers to Colonel Maynadier, the
commanding officer, his choice, perfectly defiant, meaning,
217 
THE INDIANS OF THE
if the Indian could have what he wailted they would
smoke together, but if he could not, then they would
fight.
The terms of the fruitless treaty I have not learned; but
the Indians persisted in retaining the Powder River country
as their hunting-ground, while an emigrant route had al  ready been opened through it, and forts established. Ex tensive presents were made to conciliate the Indian, who
would not treat satisfactorily.  They recovered the blan kets, clothing, hatchets, etc., that were given to them, as evi dence that the white man was afraid of them; and the butch er-knives which were included in the presents, were found
very useful and efficient by slightly perverting their use, and
scalping immigrants within a hundred miles of the post, two
months after the adjournment of the council. By authority of
the commission, the Indians were allowed to purchase or trade
for powder of the sutler, whose stock was soon exhausted,
but afterward replenished from the nearest point-Denver
City-anid that too disposed of. This was probably the new
mode of fighting with " Christian love." It certainly fur nished the Indians with the means of fighting much more
effectively.
It is the purpose of the Government to protect the emibirant to the westernl territory; but the temporizing policy
of the Interior Department has so trammeled the War
Office, as to defeat the ends which the Government desire
to attain. A more decisive course will doubtless soon be
inaugurated. At the date of this writing the House of Representatives have passed a bill transfering the Indian
Bureau to the War Department, and there is but little doubt
of the concurrence of the Senate and the approval of the
President.
General Sherman in his annual report, which was written before the Fort Phil. Kearney massacre, declared his
intention to confine the several tribes to certain specified
localities, and if an Indian is found outside his proper limits,
without a pass, he is to be "summarily punished," which I
construe to mean he will be shot. And again: when refer
2,8 
PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.
ring to the murder of Lieutenant  Daniels, of the  i8th
Infantry, and a few soldiers who were the only parties killed
up to that time, he says " their death must be avenged next
summer." General Sherman is not noted for using idle
words for effect! Since his report was sent in the atrocities have been increased ten-fold, which will doubtless result
in a ten-fold sterner policy on the part of that distinguished
officer, more particularly if the Bureau is made a part of the
War Department, for in his report he seems fearful lest he
should come in conflict with some of the treaties of the
Secretary of the Interior.  He does not, however, hesitate
to forbid the sale of arms to Indians when the Indian Commissioner has authorized it.
The reader can well imagine the disgust of officers on
the frontier, after learning the particulars of the massacre of
our personal friends, when we read in the newspaper telegrams from the Commissioner of Indian Affairs discrediting
the published accounts of the outrage; and when forced to
believe them, other telegrams, to the effect that there must
have been some misunderstanding, or the Indian would not have
been so naughty; and then again, others that he has requested
an investigation into the matter by Congress that justice
may be done to the Indian as well as the military. How decidedly cool, when the lives of hundreds and thousands are int
jeopardy because of the confidence imparted to the savages
by their success in the fearful massacre which the Indian
Bureau would justify if possible.
It is my opinion that the present generation of Indians
can be taught but little idea of moral obligations; that they
cannot be christianized, as at present situated; and the only
alternative remaining is to punish them for their crimes,
and keep them in constant fear of further punishment, it
they dare offend, until the settlers in the Indian country be —
come sufficiently numerous to defend themselves.
THE END.
2x9  
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