N 838,537 ffI~ I~I~~~~ Ivi N 4- If -A i U Vh at SS U.... V ~,~ ~ ~ R~s....~ ~.... ti T~/~ ~Ev> spats if~~l ~'0 — r S- l: v XI m - ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.. m.... -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.............. ~~~~~~~~~E 2 t - *,,, -- -, i , ', -.. 1;t ";" i I -- - I. I 1 1 11 - -. _ j OCEANIC STEAMSHIP CO. TARIFF OF FARES. ABIN, 1st CLASS. * milu. Mt N lO. Z-..-.i0, _ _. ____~___________ Ottnt IU aTrip Out ward 210 HONOLULU,. $... 0.... 7. 12500 2.00 $50.00 $25.00 420 TUTUILA, (SAMOA,).. 200.00 60.00. 188.50 100.00 6050 AUCKLAND,....... 20.00 860.00 188.50 100.00 6625 Wellngton,......... 2 20.6 897.14: 146.46 118.13 6795' Chrlst Churh Pt. Lyttleton 226.25 407.25 150.24 116.88 7000 Duntn, Pt. Chalmers,. 280.00 414.00 152.08 118.75 7200 SYDNEY...... 200.00 860.00 188,50 100.00 7740 iM,........ 212.50 88250 141.65 106.25 8100 Adelaide....... 220.00 400.50 146.66 112.50 7650 Brisbane,.. ~...... 215.00 887.00 148.50 107.50 7500 Rockhampten,...... 23.0.00 407.26 158,50 117.50 f 7600 Hobat.... ~ 225.00 40:5.00 158.5 115.00 L vkat Fifji, vlAuckld 289.88 480.89 159.60 119.69:tte-room Be rths on upper deck, $10 and $15 extra. ridalrosm Berths on main deck, $10 extra; on upper deck, $20 antd,$2 extra. ~ Ielut e rtse of State-room can be secured by the payment of half *ates for "xtma berths. -i-air.se between the ages of five and twelve years, half fare; -bewS t*o wand five, quarter fare; under two, free. exT ut0 accompanying their employers will be charged two. ti.of cbin rate without regard to age or sex, and will b thed a rved with meals accordling to ship's regulations. t Bgs0 To Honolulu: cabin, 250 pounds; steerage, 150 pounds. To A: Alazl or Sydney, cabin, 350 pounds; steerage, 175 pounds; proportionate to children. Extra baggage 5 cents a pound. Onlyf pormanteaux and small packages are allowed ti the rs,-oti ad cabins. Trunks and boxes will be plaeed in the timnt.f room. The portmanteau for cabl~iutsh o.h sfii,, oxceedf 3 feet in length, 1 foot 8 inches In width, ad 1 foot 1 inches in dcthf ROUND THE WORLD TICKETS. 6O0.00 irst.,la. - n Francisco to Sydney, N. S. W., OEealc8. 8.. Gb.; Sydney to London, P. & O., or Orient Lines; London:to a tn -Atlantic 8 8. Lines to New York, and choise of railways f rom New York to San Francisco. nrafts and Letters of Credit issued in San Francisco on all principal cities of Australia and New Zealand. Prompt attention paid to Telesgaphic Reservation of State-rooms or:Berth. * te. -Steerfge rates include bedding, eating utensils and meals. J. D. SPRECKELS & BRFOS., *G]oERAL AGRUNTS, 27 MARKET STREET, SAN FRANCISOO. ^;^ =Mepaa).- W.har; Feot o Fe or m Strit, San rrnciseo. V K,~: A` <4~:;,-, *;.'..,,*.. -..it-. 2) a:::: L 2 2, _ _ _: (1) Est;te of S. G. WILDER. W. C. WILDER. VWILDER & CO., IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN Builders' Hardware, Doors, Sash, Blinds, Paints and Oils, Wall Paper, Etc., Etc.,.., HONOLULU, H... I. %ahului u Railroad Companr KAHULUI, WAILUKU, *S.. SPRECKELSVILLE,,:'. -* -~ AND PAIA, MAUI W. WTLI)EI..President. S. B. ROSE, Secretary. OFFICE, WILDER & CO. Hawaiiarl + Railroad: C orpaLry, lahakona and ohala, 'Hawaii. ' C. L. WIGHT, President. S G. WILDER, Secretary, OFFICE, WILDER & CO. i k Tje MutuaI Life InuVpance wlpan O:P 3T = 202,..,o - Issues Policies on the Most Approved Plans. Re:lab6B: Profitable, Prompt and Certain. S. B. ROSE,.- 0TD3^3BZ~^AJ i XAt-35BSTT' SX.T IIBA.^ Zt3:L? - ~ (2) T THEO. H. DAVIES & C., Ueneral, Gommigion Moerhants, ---- DEALERS IN Engiish, 1 ootch, French and American IDRY GOODS, - Hardware, Cutlery, Crockery, Etc, Agents for Lloyds, The Liverpool Underwriters' Association, British and Foreign Marine Insurance Co., Northern Assurance Company, Fire and Life, Regular Line of Packets, Liverpool to Honolulu. Fire-Proof Buildirp, - aaiunarpu Street, -IONOLULU. Liverpool Office, 49 and 51 The Albany. (3),s~~~~~~30 T 0 X. T-e CHOICE * CALIFORNIA * PRODUCE, - ' Butter, Cheese, ard Ham, Bacon, Salmon, Codfish, Flour, GRAIN AND POTATOES, HARNESS LEA THER, SOLE LEA THER, SADDLE LEA THER, FRENCH AND AMERICAN CALF SKINS, SHOEMAkERS' FINDINGS. Agents HONOLULU TANNERY, A Full Stock Hawaiian Tanned Goat Skins for Leggings, Sheep Skin Aprons forBlacksmiths, Allum and String Leather and Wool Skins. (4) B. F. DILLINGHAM, President. J. G. SPENCER, Manager and Secretary. F. L. WINTER, Treasurer. PACIFIC HARDWARE Co. (LIMITE0.) 1kR Oi\7i2iOJ\7 &"RS, IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 4 Hardware ~ General MIerchandise, AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS, Lamps, Chandeliers, Lanterns, hTouse -Fu.rrishing Goods. STOVES, TIN AND AGATE WARE, SILVER PLATED WARE, CUTLERY, PAINTS, OILS AND VARNISHES, Lubricating and Illuminating Oils, ART DEPARTMENT, PICTURES, MOLDINGS AND ARTISTS' SUPPLIES, PICTURE FRAMING IN THE LATEST DESIGNS, Fort and Merchant Sts., - * Hopolulu, H. I. (5) -H ITAVOAI ILA: - varriage1 Manufa turing o., No. 70 QUEEN ST., HONOLULU, * —.(.A-.jL: cr s O= ))) --- CARrIiAGES, WA/tGNS s CARTS Vft wSBuilt and Repaired in First-Class Style and Durable Manner, 7toekawa2z, '[agonetfez, B:reakz, "Buggiez, Gooze M"eek Cane Wagonz, s, a Di, Deliver2g [agoqz, ) C~artpz aid TDump Cartz. Our Breaks have a National Reputation and are Exported to Japan and China Have also on Hand and for Sale an Extensive Assortment of V7A0-O N IATER IIALS, 4iCt ~ At the Lowest Market Rates, All of Good Finish and Superior Quality. All Varieties of Carriage Hardware Kept in Stock for the Trade, such as Fifth Wheels, Bolts, Nuts, Washers, Felloe Plates, Rivets, Bands, Singletree Plates, Cockeyes, Axle Clips, Ferrules, Wrenches, Stamp Joints, Axle Boxes, Etc., Etc., Etc. BAR IRON AND STEEL AND BEST CUMBERLAND COAL, A Large Stock of Iron and Steel Axles of Standard Make, iI ~ SPRINGS OF ALL SXZES, 8POKES8, FELLOES, RIIMS, HUBS, BOWS and BHAFT8 OF OUR OWN SPECIAL SELECTION. Employing only the Most Competent Blacksmiths, Woodworkers, Painters and Tinsmiths in the Kingdom, and Importing only First-Class Material, we feel that we are in a position to give thorough satisfaction to our patrons. Hawaiian carriage s Mapufacturing 6 o. (6) IM4PORTERS, Whipping ard CommiI ion IE:ERCH jALrNTS, Plantation and Insurance Agents. DEALERS IN Builders and General Hardware, AGRICULTIRAL IMPLEMENTS, vPLIANTTIONI SUPPLH!S, Carpenters', Blacksmiths', Machinists'-and Plumbers' Tools, BIouze turnizhing toodz, l KITCHEN UTENSILS, PAINTS, OILS, VARNISHES, LAMP GOODS, AND Q-eneral ISercchanridcise. Blake's Steam Pumps, Weston's Centrifugals, Wilcox & Gibbs and Remington Sewing Machines, Dr. Jayne & Son's Family Medicines. (7) _ UP-TOWN BOOK STORE. THOS. G. THRUM, PJEWS AGENT AND pUBLISHER, Brewer Block, Fort St., Honolulu, H. I. DEALER ALSO IN Art Goods, Artists' Materials, Toys, Fancy Goods, Etc. AGENCY FOR THE SALE OF Andrews' Hawaiian Dictionary and Grammar. Mrs. Sinclair's "Indigenous Flowers of the Hawaiian Islands." Fornander's "Polynesian Race," 3 vols, complete. Baldwin's Sets of Mounted Hawaiian Ferns and Collection of Land Shells. Specimen Sets of Hawaiian Postage Stamps. PUBLICATION OFFICE OF THE HAVVAIIAN ANNUAL, a The Recognized Authority on Matters of Interest to Home and Foreign Readers. IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN Building s Materials, ~* W~KEEP A WELL SELECTED STOCK OF NOR'WEST PINE, REDWOOD, SHINGLES, CABINET AND HARD WOODS, NAILS, MATTING, PAINTS, GLASS, TERRA COTTA, IRON ROOFING, BUILDERS' HARDWARE, WALL PAPER, DOORS, SASHES AND BLINDS, SW'Any orders entrusted to us will be carefully filled, and at the Lowest Market Prices. (8) C. 0. B EIGE I, — GENERAL AGENCY -- New York Life Insurance Company, Assets..........................................$105,000,000. South British Insurance Company, FIRE AND MARINE. Capital............................................... $10,000,000. Hartford Fire Insurance Company, Assets......................................................................... $6,142,454. Commercial Insurance Company, FIRE AND MARINE. Capital.................................................................. $200,C00. Thames and Mersey Marine Insurance Company, Assets................................................................................... $6,124,057. IiacNieale & jUrban Safes, FIRE PROOF, BURGLAR PROOF, FIRE AND BURGLAR PROOF. e. 0. BERGER, - - HONOLULU, J-.. aid Z o? ha@ A -a - s - F D = H. J. NOLTE, Proprietor. OPPOSITE WILDER & COMPANY'S, - - - - FORT ST., HONOLULU, H. I. OPEN FROMI 3 A. MN. TO 10 PF. NM. FIRST-CLASS LUNCHES, TEA AND COFFEE, Soda Water, Ginger Ale, Etc., Served at Short Notice, Cigars and Tobaccos of All Brands, Plain and Fancy Pipes, Also a Large Variety of the Best Quality of Smokers' Articles,:3:. IXI:.:I:Z::) ".:E3 A::T-I, 0c::,:E: zL~"rE".ISS 0-00 KIM & CO., No. 59 Nuuanu St., Honolulu, AND DEALERS IN ALL KINDS OF CASSIMERES AND FURNISHING GOODS, ALSO A FULL STOCK OF DRY AND FANCY GOODS. A A First-Class Cutter is employed, and all clothes made at our establishment will be guaranteed a first-class fit. (9) the lawaiian Islands, and devoted to the Conm- In mercial and Industrial Progress and Prosperity. of the Kingdom. Six Dollars ($6) per annum. Foreign, covering postage, Ten Dollars. Daily t Circulation, 1,1f00 to 1,500. E2sasE5525 5A5H5 5BE55ES5 ds S2 _ r A Weekly Journal, having a large circuloation i throueghout the Group and in Foreign Countries. eContains the full text of the legal decisions of f the Supreme ourt. Five Dollars ($6) per annum. IL Igxloreign, 6. C irculati on, 1, 200 to 1,500. W;he ";oua'izi t' Guide THROUGH THEL Descriptive of Hawaiian Scenes and Scenery, and richly Illustrated with Pictires and Maps. Edition, 5,000. Price, 60 cents, or $5 per dozen. h1 u Devoted to Ca ee and Sugar in all branches of cultivation and manufacture. Two Dollars and ]u a Half ($2.50) per annum. Foreign, $3. This periodical has taken a ligh position, and has q its patrons and correspondents in every sugar The above periodicals are published by the HAX AIIAN CAZETTE C.I, L'd, Honolullu, H. I. H-onloltlu, H-. I. (10) 'V1 I ----~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hawaii, ESTABLISHED 30 YEARS. Always on Hand, For Sale, Serviceable Horses, Bred from High Class Imported Sires. APOLLO, sired by Black Hawk. JOHNNY MORGAN, sired by Johnny Morgan, is half-brother to imported Ivanhoe. GRADE SPRAYI)EN, a beautiful sorrel, bred by Hon. W. H. Rice. Colts and Fillies from the above Sires, now 2 years old, For Sale. Also some Fine Grades from the old Oregon and Laurel Stock. Two-year-old Mules from Grade Dams. ) A H. E. MCINTYRE & BRO., IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN Groceries, Provisions and Feed, East Corner Fort and King Streets. NEW GOODS RECEIVED BY EVERY PAKETT Ij FROM THE EASTERN STATES AND EUROPE. - Fresh + galifornia + Produce + by + Every + Steamers All orders faithfully attended to and goods delivered to any part of the city free of charge. Island Orders Solicited. Satisfaction Guaranteed. P. 0. Box INo 416. XTelephone 1o. 92. (11) Wv. S. LTjCE, CAMPBELL'S FIRE-PROOF BLOCK, Merchant St., Honolulu. L. TURNER, -0- DEALER IN -0 -'Dry Goods, Gruocries, Boots, SU1Cos, HAY AND GRAIN, ETC., HILO, -- - - HAWAII. - - -oc-t i i ~r r. ~ (12) W. H. RICE, '^r; __^~, A — de-s m BREEDER OF fINE JORSES AND eATTLE. Horses from the Celebrated Stallions: ARABIAN STALLION, - - ALTF. NORMAN STALLION, - SPAYDON. NORMAN STALLION, ROVER. Also a Choice Lot of BULLS, COWS AND CALVES From the Celebrated Bulls, SUSSEX, HEREFORD, AYRSHIRE AND DURHAM. A LOT OF FINE CARRIAGE AND SADDLE HORSES FOR SALE. Tourists and Excursion Parties desiring Single, Double or Four-inHand Teams or Saddle Horses can be accommodated at W. H. RICE'S LIVERY STABLES. All communications to be addressed to W. H. RICE, LIHUE, KAUAI. WM. W. HALL, President and Manager. E. 0. WHITE, Secretary and Treasurer. W. F. ALLEN, Auditor. T. MAY and F. WUNDENBERG, Directors. E, 9. HALL & SON, IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN Ship x Chandlery, x ardware, JigricuzZturcLZ Irmplements, REED & BARTON'S PLATED WARE, Kerosene Oil, Paints,Oils, Leather, Manila Rope, ACEnLERAL LIsERCIANDTIST, Gor.; F ot tdJ is Sts., HoSrolulu, H. I. (13) E. W..BARNARD, Dfij + QoodS + and+ povi; ion + lepehant, bAUPAHOEHOE, J-AWAII. Telephone 4-3. Post Office and Telephone Station. Auctioneer, Notary Public and Agent to Grant Marriage Licenses, C[u Vo ^ouriztz. er Frpses et)d Guidaes f0p te ascet) of Q eaeerlere I~ui9frii), e rp]y fe L0. Ti. 77elre1 s, r Telephone from Kahluul, [ NUo. 60. MAKAWAO, MAUI. JOIH N N OTT, IMPORTER AND DEALER IN Stoves, Ranges, Metals, Plumbers' Stock,Water and Soil Pipe PUMPS, LAMIPS, CHANDELIERS, GRANITE, IRON AND TIN WARE, PLUMBING, GAS, TIN, COPPER AND SHEET IRON WORKER, 95 and 97 King Street, Honolulu, H. I. 0E PS. HEDINLAE, STK N KEEPS ON HAND A LARGE STOCK O --- Sreeeries * audl Dry. Goods Parties ioin[ up Haleakala Snpplied with all Necessaries FOR THE TRIP. STORE 4bLOSE TO THE NEW RAILROAD TERMINUS AT PAIA. All Goods Sold at Reasonable Prices. German and Scandinavian Languages Spoken. (14) H-1. F I {ICHZMAN, - IMPORTER OF -- FINE WATCHES, DIAMONDS, CLOCKS, SILVERWARE, Maker of Fine Native Jewelry, J-OS. 91 AND 93 fORT ST., - J-ONOLUU, J-. I. (LALUCLBW' 2IEiLPL'&I @@~ Office, 81 King Street, Honolulu. TELEPHONES 86. RES. TELEPHONES 3. -GENERXIAL EXPRESS AND DRAYXNG.*Baggage taken charge of and Shipped or Delivered to any Destination on the Islands. We will check all Passengers' Baggage to the Coast up to within one hour of sailing, by persons giving the ticket number. HIand Baggage will be put in staterooms on giving the number of stateroom. Checks delivered up to one hour of sailing. VRS. THOS. ILAC K, No. 81 FORT ST., HONOLULU, IMPORTER AND DEALER IN Shot Guns, Rifles, evolvers and All Kinds of Fire irms, AGENT FOR THE IMPROVED WHITE AND NEW HOME SEWING MACHINES, Sole Agent for Spalding's Base Ball and Sporting Goods. C.. DICKEY, NOTARY PUBLIC, — IMPORTER AND DEALER IN — SPECIAL ATTENTION PAID TO ORDERING GOODS FROM PACIFIC COAST ON COMMISSION. Goods Delivered within a Distance of Four Miles. HAMAKUAPOKO. *[" Tourists supplied with Food for Mountain Trips at Reasonable Rates., (15) @, LBiRIUI & w@e GENERAL MERCANTILE -0AND -- -....((( LIST OF OFFICERS: )))) —. P. C. JONES, - - President and Manager. J. O. CARTER, - - Treasurer and Secretary. COL. W. F. ALLEN, - -- Auditor. -— ((( DIRECTORS: ))),HON. C. R. BISHOP, S. C. ALLEN, H. WATERHOUSE. M. S. GRINBAUMI & CO., IMPORTERS OF — GENERAL MERCHANDISE, — AND — LIS@ LML I L I L LE Li L q T S QUEEN STREET, - - - HONOLULU, H. r. SAN FRANCISCO OFFICE,.... 215 FRONT STREET. NEW YORK OFFICE, - - - 27 WALKER STREET. - ACINTS OF - The Hana Plantation Co., The Heeia Alricultural Co., L'd, HANA, MAUI. HEEIA OAHU. Special Attention Paid to Hawaiian Island Produce. (16) E. R. HENDRY, President and Manager. JOHN ENA, Vice-President. GODFREY BROWN, Secretary and Treasurer. CECIL BROWN, Auditor. HAWAIIAN HARDWARm 0O. Opp. Spreckels' Bank. Fort Street, Honolulu, IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN GENERAL Hardware, Glassware, Crockery Genuine Haviland China, Plain and Decorated; Wedgewood Ware; Piano, Library and Stand Lamps. CHANDELIERS, ELECTROLIERS AND LAMP FIXTURES OF ALL KINDS. A Complete Assortment of Drills and Files. PLANTATION SUPPLIES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, The "Gazelle" Three- Wheeled Riding Plow and Equalizer, Bluebeard Rice Plow, Planters' Steel and Goose-necked Hoes. OILS: Lard, Cylinder, Kerosene, Linseed. PAINTS, VARNISHES AND BRUSHES, MANILA AND SISAL ROPE, HANDLES OF ALL KINDS. L]OSE: tubber, WiPe-Bound of Superior Qualii, and iteam Agate Iron Ware, Silver Plated Ware, Table and Pocket Cutlery, Powder, Shot and Caps, the Celebrated "Club" Machine-Loaded Cartridges, AGENTS FOR "New Process" Rope, "New Process" Twist Drills, Gate City Stone Pilters, Neal's Carriage Paints, Hartman's Steel- Wire Fence and Steel- Wire Mats, Wmn. G. Fisher's Wrought Steel Ranges, Hart's Patent "Duplex" Die Stocksfor Pipe and Bolt Threading. ;~ I - - - - j. -- I L - 4,: - I 1: -- INTER-ISLAND '-=' STKAiY[ NAVIQATION IMPANY (LIMITED.) Steamer W. 0C. HAZL, ( 4i (3 L.X TTXj.3,) Will run regularly to LAHAINA and 14ALAEA, Island of Maul, and KONA and KAU, Island of Hawaii. Steamier /ImAL-HALm, "W1 un regularly to NAWILIWILI, KOLOA, ELEELE and WAIM A, Island of Kauai. Stearer IWALAltI, Will run regularly to KUKUIHAELE and HONOKAA, Island of Hawaii. Steamer C. BR. BISoP, Will run regularly to WAIANAE, WAIALUA, LAIE and Ports along KOOLAU, Island of Oahu. tteamer JAL:SES LIAJBS:E, Will run regularly to KAPAA, Island of Kauai. - TH E BE ST ROUTE1 -— TO Tt0t WORLD-RENOWNED VOLgANO OF KILAUEA,:!.n:C -:i A VIA PUNALUU, HAWAII.: t" 0 Steaxner er T -. o. EA 3L, (:salJaSi,), Will leave ionolulu at 10 o'clock A. M. on TUESDAYS andFIbDAYS of each alternate week, and rrive at Honolulu at 3 o'clock P. M. on TUESDAYS and FRIDAYS of each alternate week. By this route Tourists and others can make thelentire trip in seven days, being only one night on the vessel, and two nights and one whole day at the Volcano House. The sail along the entire coast on the leeward side of Hawaii is charming, affording Tourists a chance to view the most exquisite scenery that can be seen on these Islands. Will stp at Kealakekua Bayhere sufficient time is allowed to visit the monument of Captain Cook; reaching Punaluu at 5 P. M., fifteen hours ahead of any other line, where is thellnest Hotel on the Island of Hawaii, and from here tourists will be conveyed by lroad to Pahala, thence by stage-coach to the Volcano House. '*^TH41$ S THE ONLY CARRIAGE ROUTE. W Tickets for theiB Rund Trip, which pays all expenses. For further informtion, apply to Messrs.. D. SPRECKEL8 & BROS., San Francisco, or at the office of the Company on Queen Street, Honol.lu. - 3,. L. -MCoIEAN, 8BBCETAyY. W. B. GODFREY, PRESIDsNT. I I I I I I I:; 0 [1i, 4 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ L — - I I I "I Isso~,::ss~ ~~li~~~~~i~~~iBi~I~ii"i~~~~~~-~~1~ '"""'"i"'" r:I;~,;;;,i;:lil818lii:l~:n '"'""""""".i~n~~: Bil r liilii88i80li8Plilg iil8lilllll8g '~~li,'",, ' I~,'~ ~,:I::;"~'i;;;~;~;:A" rlr~ s~ ~r,,aal A ii8 811,1 ~iO s' iillU~li,,lrn: Bi YB.!IYYYBi U:~isl~i -"" _ B r li00 I ""'";~ I li;lil ~ilH U;::iill~l:~i;ll~l~~R'W l~;ic " Is ''"""1P;:lln:ua~ """""""' ~Bss~ si"~loal:8ii r l~~~i sarn;.iuLi iirnrrn:r rrar;" i~ii;l~ a ~~ r~ I~ji~i~llil I; i, ;id rin~~:;ii; or~ioao,:: Iiig.i ~""i""":;u;~,~;;i;~l iS~ r~ d ": " " IEl I iiiiiiiiiinuiiiiii!i:n;::~:~;;,l::;l:~ -I~I~ I:-. i:iilliiiii I ~;:ji,;;;;l;;;;;:;:;I;~ ~ir~~il: "'~~'~~'iii;' C j: I! i~i8lpliili i~i~i ii~?;i~:l:sraaal:r '"":Iii"' I"""';,,,,,,.,,:,:,,,,i,:,, i$glB1IIIIRllii,,,,,, ~i":i iQWI:s s,~; s,,g,; ; ~liliil,,,,,i;iii8lili'811ililBIO,,,,, ~;I~~I~,,,i,,,,,,, ~.,,,,.,,, ';""~"""~ ili8illliiiiii;i lQ0jl i"O""R"ABAA~"";B"B" """:"" iiiiil;iil I~:E"Eir~,i~aaa ,~ ii,,,. iiiil lii ii~;~;rrertail i;~;;""I" ~:i~il~9l;iall;: i;Bil~l;l ii"' '"'"""1";"1 il;B~liBliPliQiQAi; ml;;qglii ~IijllllililIWPlillBllils;~;~;l;;;;;lxil;lir,,,:,s;,,;~;;,,, it;;;;liillilii 'i"""""""" ~;~~~~:'aa;n;l:;d;;;;~;;;;;R: a iBIII;""""'"""''0"""" ii;ii:~;i,;s88..~~~~,sa,,;,::l s I~rna;""l"'li"i"' ~Bii:BII;BU~; r881118~81:~;;~illll;Ilii81:""I'~'" "I" ilP1IB sirni;nr~r lil.l "~"' ~III Ilrirns~s,~,:,,i 1:i.,,,i,,,,.,,. illill i~~i~i: ~s~a, li:ii liliiiiiln'i;:~,~;~;~;;;~~~;li rrrr E I,~~R~~ ~ r srnrr 11811B818118s111811,,,,,,,,. i~ i';::RIAlsEl~;iii,~H:,I,;;AI ililiiAi~iiiiiiii;iiiiiii.,niHnI isn i~~~l~ i":IB ilBBll;i~ ~aP:.liilBIBIBIIBIIIIPBg; iii8lilisli rB1PBB"%~ liu Bi "'"'" alair " "illa3 lil!nni.i, in~ln:i;iisaas~saai;~- il;li';Aiii;s~i8 ~'"":!iiiiiii'iii~il!rl'i:iii~i:!iii il~iii!;;!i!im!;!i!;!i;rnuliiii!?H nir i,,,,, niP:;~ii~18ls8j8~ii~i;;;i~;:;:ii~i:~ I~. ii, -~~~~~i~ srr:l:al ia.:l:I.:~;:i~.;.l: ~".""""'" iilP8sl' r:,:,;inii: i;iiiiiiiilil~iili liiiilii' I IBiBBBIBBiiAalii"i:iiiiililiiiliiiii i~ll;iiill;i iil I, r,:liliigliiiiiii;iiBilil,,:,,, ~11::~;;~21: i;l;li; iiiiaig,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I~ I;;iililiii;,;;;;;,;~;I;::;;:~~~~~~~~**~j~j~ '"'"~:: ~~"" r~asa~ ~".i i:::8;:;iRliiABAB'gii;lgi8lgiiiil~:~l;Q~i~l:,;ilr ~~, sit 1f Tuxi GOVERNMENI HIUSE LHlON )IULV I THE TOURISTS' GUIDE THROUGH THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, DESCRIPTIVE OF THEIR *SCENES AND SCENERY. COMPILED AND EDITED BY HENRY M: WHITNEY. PRICE, 60 CENTS: BY FOREIGN POST, 75 CENTS. SAN FRANCISCO: THE S. F. NEWS COMPANY, 210 POST ST. NEW YORK: THE AMERICAN NEWS CO., 39 CHAMBEiRS ST. HONOLULU: THE HAWAIIAN GAZETTE COMPANY. 1890.::::1::1" ~r ~~: %la: I I,I,, - -,,, - -, I / Lc -3u,\AI2. (j4r --- —- --- -; w J) I!II I aF Printed, Published and Copyrighted by the HAWAIIAN GAZETTE COMPANY, HONOLULU, H. I. Entered in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 4y) tyy1 I * I... x. 'k:~ ~..'", '1 SS61 3...~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~....-~~~~~_~ ~ _..... 1 — ^4^W A zl mi^o^A^ ^v. ^'pr. \VL-\P -3 PREFACE. This work will supply a want which has been greatly felt, not only by tourists, but by residents of this group. In its preparation no expense has been spared to make it a credit to our islands. The finest of its illustrations are from the establishment of the Moss Engraving Company, New York, and are faithful copies of the photograph originals. The aim of the editor has been to furnish only truthful descriptions of scenes which are almost indescribable, and which leave an indelible impression on the memory of every visitor. Mr. Sam'l L. Clemens (Mark Twain), who spent several months here, has cleverly expressed this idea in the following paragraph, when alluding recently to Hawaii: " No alien land in all the world has any deep, strong charm for me but that one; no other land could so longingly and so beseechingly haunt me, sleeping and waking, through half a lifetime as that one has done. Other things leave me, but it abides; other things change, but it remains the same. For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; the pulsing of its surf-beat is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud rack; I can feel the spirit of its woodland solitudes, I can hear the plash of its brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago." H. M. W Honolulu, July, 1890. MAPS. PAGE. Island of Oahu........................................... 24 Island of H awaii......................................... 40 Islands of Maui, Molokai and Lanai...................... 72 Island of K auai........................................... 104 ILLUSTRATIONS. PA Government House, Honolulu. Opposite title page. Royal Palace of lolani.................................... Diamond Head, near Honolulu............................ Avenue of Royal Palms.................................. General Post-Office, Honolulu............................ Opera House, or Music Hall............................. General view of Pearl Harbor from tbe entrance....... Hilo Bay and Village, Hawaii............................ Lunalilo Home for aged Hawaiians....................... Residence of Hon. Chas. R. Bishop........................ View in the village of Ewa................................ View of Pearl Harbor from the Oahu Railway............ Scene on the coast near Onomea, Hawaii................. Village and Plantation of Lihue, Kauai................... The Pall road near Honolulu............................ View on Pearl Harbor, Oahu.............................. Rice Plantation on Oahu Railway route.................. Banana Plantation and Water-flume..................... View on Oahu Railway, near Moanalua.................. Pearl Harbor, near Aki's wharf............................ GE. 1 3 8 9 16 32 48 56 64 80 88 96 112 120 128 136 144 160 176 / I INDEX TO SUBJECTS. PAGE. An Ancient Hawaiian.................................... 78 Approaches to the Volcano............................... 122 Area of Hawaiian Islands................................. 147 A Day at Pearl Harbor................................... 153 "Aloha oe, Hawaii nei," poetry......................... 176 Boiling Lake of Kilauea............. 39 Barking Sands of Mana.......................... 104, 148 Churches and church services in Honolulu..............11, 12 Captain Cook's monument................................ 32 Crater of Kilauea, description of......................... 34 Cocoanut Island, description of................... 49 Curios from the crater................................... 55 Cane cultivation on Maui............................ 86 Circuit trip around Hawaii................................ 124 Colonists, good location for............................... 124 Colonization on Pearl Harbor............................ 158 Diamond Head, or Leahi Crater.......................... 3 Dana Lake in the Crater.......................... 40 Distances on Hawaiian Islands.1........4... 142-144 Dream of a hundred years hence......................... 166 Eagle House in Honolulu................................ 5 Excursions around Honolulu......................... 14 East Maui, trip around.................................... 92 Ewa Plantation on Pearl Harbor......................... 165 Free IAbrary and Reading Room......................... 8 Fish Market and scenes around it........................ 10 Flora and Ferns of Hawaii........................... 147 "Farewell to Hawaii," poetry............................ 176 Government House (Aliiolanihale)....................... 6 Haleakala, "the Palace of the Sun".................... 4134-8 Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands, location of............... 2 Hawaiian Band, account of.............................20, 151 Hawaii, description of the Island of...................... 29 Hana, on Maui, description of.................... 94 Hanapepe, on Kauai................................... 102 r I vi. INDEX TO SUBJECTS. PAGE. Hawaiian Hotel, description of........................... 116 Honolulu, approach to, from the sea...................... 2 it description of, arrival at....................... 4 " port of, arrival at................. 116, 118 " views of an Australian................ 125 '" evidences of an advanced civilization..... 126 Hotel accommodations, Hawaiian Hotel............ 5 Hamilton House in Honolulu................. 5 Horseback Rides around Honolulu...................... 17 Hilo Bay and Village..................... 47 Hilo, district of.......... 62 Half-way house, on the Volcano road.............. 52 H am akua, district of...................................... 61 Hale o Keawe, in Kona........................... 69, 71 H aleakala, a trip to................................79, 82, 83 " arriving at the Summit of..................... 81 H analei, on K auai........10............................. 107 H awaiians fond of m usic................................... 125 Hawaii's Heritage, Kilauea............................. 127 H awaii for health....................................129, 130 Hints to Excursionists to the Volcano........ 175 lolani Palace.................................... 6 Insane Asylum......................................... 10 Iao Valley, on Mau...................................... 76 Kapiolani Park, location of........................17, 120, 132 K oko H ead.................................. 19 K alihi V alley............................................ 19 Kaneohe, Kaalaea, Kualoa and Kahana.................. 23 Kaliuwaa Valley, at Hauula..... 24 Kau and the Volcano....................................33 Kilauea, description of......... 35 ' another description of........................... 40 Kawaihae Harbor and Village........................... 45 Iohala, description of...............................46, 58, 60 Kilauea-iki, at the Volcano............................. 55 Kau, district of, on Hawaii............................... 67 Kona, Hawaii, description of....................... 68 K ahoolawe, Island of................................... 96 Kauai, Island of..................................... 100 Koloa, Village of.............................. 101 Kapaa and Kealia, on Kauai................. 105, 106 Kilauea, Village of, on Kauai............................. 107 K ilohana, K auai......................................... 110 Kipukai, on Kauai....................................... ll Keauhou route to the Volcano.......... 122 INDEX TO SUBJECTS. vii. PAGE. Legislative Hall, description of........................... 7 Lunalilo Home for aged Hawaiians...................... 10 Lahaina, V illage of...................................... 73 Largest Sugar Estate in the world........................ 84 Largest Apple Orchard ".............. 94 Lanai, Island of........................................... 96 Leper settlement on Molokai...................97, 98 Lihue, Village of.......................................... 101 Lumahai Valley.............................. 108 Laie, the Mormon settlement on Oahu................... 25 Looking forward, a dream............................... 166 Mount Tantalus.................................... 17 Makiki Valley..................................... 18 M anoa Valley............................................. 18 Mormon Colony at Laie, on Oahu......................... 25 Miss Isabella Bird's description of the Volcano...........35-40 Madame Pele in the Vocano............................. 42 M aui, description of....................................... 73 M akawao Sem inary....................................... 79 Molokai and Molokini, Islands of......................... 96 Molokai Leper Settlement............................... 98 M akaw eli, K auai.......................................... 105 M ount K alalea............................................ 106 M ount W aialeale........................................ 110 Mauna Loa, ascent of..................................... 171,( " " description of...............................128 Mokuaweoweo Crater, on Mauna Loa..................... 171 Nuuanu Pall, or precipice............................. 14, 121 N apali, K auai............................................ 109 N iihau................................................... 113 Opera House................................. 7 O ahu Jail.............................................. 9 Oahu, Island of, description of............................ 21 Olinda, on Maui, description of........................80, 137 Off for Honolulu, a Boston tourist's impressions....... 114 Oahu Railway and Land Company....................... 155 Public buildings of Honolulu....................... 6 Police Station House................................... 9 Punchbowl Hill and Park.............................11, 131 Pauoa V alley............................................. 18 Palolo V alley.................................. 19 Punaluu and Pahala.......................... 33 Pele's abode at the Volcano............................. 37 Pele's H air............................................. 55 Puna, district of, on Hawaii....................... viii. INDEX TO SUBJECTS. PAGE. Palace of the Sun........................................ 79 Punaluu route to Volcano.......................... 123 Population of Hawaiian Islands........................... 139 Post-Office and postage rates...........................9, 145 Poetry, original contributions of....................153, 176 Pearl H arbor.............................................. 157 Pearl City and its Pavilion.................... 161, 163 Queen's Hospital in Honolulu.......................... 7 Royal M ausoleum...................................... 10 Route No. 1 to the Volcano............................... 30 Route No. 2 to the Volcano............................... 43 Road from Hilo to Volcano............................ 50 Routes for travel on Hawaii.............. 57 Ruins of heathen Temples............................... 77 Royal Palace, Honolulu................................6, 118 Royal Hawaiian Band.................................... 151 Schools in Honolulu...................................... 13 Social life in H onolulu.................................... 21 Spreckelsville Plantation.................... 84, 85 Sugar mills at Spreckelsville............................ 89 Switzerland of Hawaii...................... 93 Sir Ed. Clifford's account of the Lepers.................. 98 Spouting Horn on Kauai................................ 102 Sacred altar on Kauai..................................... 104 Statistics of Hawaiian Islands.....................139, 142, 147 Sugar Plantations, ownership of......................140-142 The Mirage on Kauai........................... 104 Tourist's description of the trip to Honolulul........... 114 Volcano of Kilauea, route to......................30, 43 Volcano, approach to.................................. 33 Volcano House at Kilauea.............................34, 53 Ulupalakua, Maui, description of.......................... 95 W aikiki............................................ 16, 120 Waimea Valley, on Oahu...................................26 W aialua, on Oahu.......................................26, 27 Wailnanalo, Hon. J. A. Cummins' residence............. 27 Waianae Plantation.................................... 28 Waipio Valley, on Hawaii............................. 61 Wailuku, description of........................... 74 Waimea and Wahiawa, on Kauai..................... 102, 103 Wailua Falls and River, on Kauai................. 10, 111 Wainiha River, Kauai............................. 108 Young Men's Christian Association....................... 9 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. OCEANIC STEAMSHIP COMPANY, Honolulu. New Zealand and Australian Service............Opposite 2d and 3d pages of Cover WILDER'S STEAMSHIP KINAU, of the Hilo Volcano Route........................................................................ Inside F ront Cover INTER-ISLAND S. S. CO.'S SERVICE........Inside last page Cover MARIPOSA STEAMSHIP, with names and tonnage of Oceanic S. S. Co.'s vessels.................................................... (21) WM. G. IRWIN & COMPANY'S business card and officers of the com pany................................................(.......................... (22) CLAUS SPRECKELS & COMPANY, Bankers, Honolulu......... (23) THE ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL, Honolulu, the model family hotel............................................................................. (24) OCCIDENTAL HOTEL, San Francisco, the most popular house in San Francisco....................................(25) ANDREWS, L. A., Makawao, Maui, will furnish Tourists with horses and guides for the ascent of Haleakala.............. (18) BERGER, C. O., Agent for Life, Fire and Marine Insurance Companies, Fire Proof Safes, Etc...................................... (8) BEAVER COFFEE SALOON, Fort Street, is open daily till 10 p. m., furnishing lunches, cigars, tobaccos, soda and ale drinks (8) BARNARD; E. W.,,Laupahoehoe, Hawaii, Dealer in General Merchandise, Auctioneer and Notary Public..........................(.13) BREWER & CO., General Mercantile and Commission Merchants, Q ueen Street...................................................................... (15) BENSON, SMITH & CO., Druggists and Dealers in Perfumery, Toilet Soaps, Chemicals, Etc................... (33) CASTLE & COOKE, Importers, Shipping and Commission Merchants, and Dealers in General Merchandise............................(6) DAVIES, THEO. H. & CO., Importers and Commission Merchants, and General Insurance Agents....................................(2) DICKEY, CHARLES H., Hamakuapoko, Maui, Dealer in General Merchandise; will supply Tourists with all their wants:.... (14) ENOS & CO., Kahului, Maui, Dealer in General Merchandise of All Kinds, with Island Produce, Etc.................................... (84) EAGLE HOUSE, Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu; is a First-Class Family Hotel, in the most pleasant part of the city..(........... (36) FIREMEN'S FUND FIRE AND MARINE INSURANCE CO., Bishop & Co., Agents for the Hawaiian Islands................... (28) XI, INDEX TO AD VE TISEAtENTS. PACI. fAIRVIEW HOTEL, Lihue, Kauai; is the most convenient stopping place for Strangers visiting that Island........................... (34) GOLDBERG, M., Custom Made Clothing, Honolulu................ xii GOO KIM & CO., 59 Nuuanu Ave., Merchant Tailors and Dealers in Staple and Fancy Dry Goods......................................... (8) GRIN BAIUM & CO,, Importers of General Merchandise, and Agents for the Hana and Heeia Plantations.......................... (15) GENERAL KEYES CAFE, the Finest Private Dining Room in San Francisco, 13 to 17 Stockton Street.............................(31) HAWAIIAN NEWS CO., Books, Pianos, Periodicals, Etc........ (32) HAWAIIAN RAILROAD, from Mahukona to Kohala, Hawaii; about 20 m iles in length.......................................................... (1) HAWAIIAN CARRIAGE CO., Furnishes to Order Carriages, Wagons and Carts, and are Dealers in All Kinds of Carriage Materials and Stocks, 70 Queen Street............................... (5) HAWAIIAN HARDAWARE CO., Fort Street, Dealers in Hardware, Glassware, Crockery, Lamps, Chandeliers, Plantation Supplies, Etc I............. (16) HAWAIIAN POPULAR PUBLICATIONS, Including the Daily Advertiser, Weekly Gazette, Tourist's Guide and Planters' Monthly, 46 Merchant Street....................... (9) HAWAIIAN COMMERCIAL AND SUGAR CO., Kahului, Maui; Keep the Most Complete Stock of General Merchandise to be found in these Islands................................................. (34) HALL & SON, Corner Fort and King Streets, Importers of Ship Chandlery, Hardware and Agricultural Implements............. (12) IIEINEMANN, G., Paia, Maui, Dealer in Groceries and General Merchandise; will supply Tourists with all necessaries..........(13) HARTFORD FIRE INSURANCE CO., C. O. Berger, Agent at Honolulu; strong, prompt and reliable..................................... (31) HONOLULU STEAM RICE MILL, the Largest and Best Rice Cleaning Establishment in the Islands.................................. (31) HACKFELD & CO., Importers and Commission Merchants, and Agents for the Pacific Mail S. S. Co. in Honolulu..................(32) HITCHCOCK, D. HOWARD, Artist, Rooms 95 Hotel Street, where can be seen Choice Paintings of Island Scenery............ (35) HOLLISTER & CO., 109 Fort Street, Dealers in Drugs and Chemicals, Kodaks, Cigars, Tobaccos, Etc............................ (40) KAHULUI RAILROAD CO., from Kahului to Wailuku and also to Paia, Maui..................... (1) LEWERS & COOKE, Importers and Dealers in All Kinds of Building Materials, Mattings, Etc........................(7) LUCE, W. S., Wine and Spirit Merchant, near Bishop & Co.'s B ank........................................................(11) LACK, MRS. THOS., 81 Fort Street, Importer and Dealer in All Kinds of Fire Arms and Ammunition, Sewing Machines, Base B all G oods........................................................................ (14) INDEX TO AD VERTISfEMENTS. xi, PAGE, MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE CO. of New York; S. B. Rose, Agent for Hawaii.......................(.............. (1) M'CHESNEY & SONS, 40 Queen Street, Importers and Dealers in Groceries of Every Description................................ (3) M'INTYRE & BRO., Importers of First-Class Groceries; received by every Packet and Steamer.................................................. (10) NOTT, JOHN, Importer and Dealer in Stoves, Metals, Lamps, Granite and Iron Ware, 95 King Street.................................. (13) PACIFIC HARDWARE CO., Fort Street, Ironmongers and Importers of Hardware and General Merchandise................... (4) PERRIER-JOUET & CO., San Francisco, Dealers il French Wines, Brandies and Epernay Champagne....................................... (28) OAHU RAILWAY AND LAND CO. Offers to Settlers Fine Building Sites at Pearl Harbor, on the Railway Route............(38) RASEMAN, A. H., Bookbinder, Blank Books, Honolulu.......... xii RICE WM. H., Lihue, Kauai, Stock Raiser and Breeder of Choice Horses and Cattle, from Best Imported Stock........................ (12) RISDON IRON WORKS, Sail Francisco; John Dyer, Agent in Honolulu, Dealers in Steam Pumps and All Kinds of Mill Machinery......................................................(27) SPENCER, FRANK, Waimea, Hawaii, Breeder of First-Class Stock, from Imported Animals............................................... (10) SANDER'S EXPRESS CO., Attend to Checking Baggage to and from the Steamers; Office, 81 King Street............................. (14) STEREOPTICON VIEW CO., A Traveling Panorama of Hawaiian Volcanoes; Headquarters at Lincoln, Neb.,'U. S. A............... (30) SMITH, A. L. & CO., Fort Street, Honolulu, Dealers in Fancy Goods, Photos, Sewing Machines, Etc....................................(35) THOS. G. THRUM, Fort Street, the Up-Town Book and News Store; Artists' IMaterials..............(..........................)..... (7) TURNER, LOUIS, Hilo, Hawaii, Importer of General Merchandise of Every Kind..................................................... (11) TABER, the Leading Photographer in San Francisco; Art Rooms, 8 Montgomery Street........................................... (29) TAHITI LEMONADE WORKS CO., Manufacturers of Lemonade, Soda Water, Mineral Waters, Etc............................ (33) THE HAMILTON HOTEL, King Street, near Fort, Honolulu; is the Most Centrally Located of any in the City................... (37) WILDER & CO., Dealers in Lumber, Coal, Builders' Hardware, Paints and Oils, Wall Paper, Etc., Cor. Fort and Queen Sts...... (1) WICHMAN, H. F., Importer and Dealer in Fine Watches, Jewelry, Diamonds, Silverware, Etc., 93 Fort Street.............(14) WHITNEY, C. E. & CO., Largest and Most Reliable Firm Dealing in Dairy Produce in San Francisco.................................. (26) WING WO TAI & CO., the Principal Dealers in Chinese and Japanese Goods, Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu......(................. (35) xii. GENT'S FURNISHING GOODS. I xRb \ Cor. Fort and Merchant Sts., imobell's Block, - Honolulu. Ca I L~ II ~~ 0 I - r N l' IV 1 A|, A. H. RASEMAN, Bookbinder and Paper Ruler,:1 o,A BLANK BOOK MANUFACTURER, c MERCHANT ST., HONOLULU, H. I. DA.AA A A....... 3-w ^am"&7AA^^AAA^ I!II I I N' 11I II ii I 4II, I 11' I..1i. I II I Mi 11 N I 4 A~~~~~~~~~~'1mmm. i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-~ —SL~L I THE F RYL PALACEONOIULUI TO UQTSTS' G UUI)DE THROUGHU THLE HE EiA2R7HIY PRAIDISE I Don't you want to go to it? Why, of course. Just pack your valise, get your ticket and start for Honolulu. Here are the rates of fare by either of the steamers Mariposa, Alameda, Zealandia or Australia: 1. Cabin, $75. 2. Upper Deck State Rooms, $10 extra. 3. Tickets for Round Trip to Honolulu and back to San Francisco, good for three months, $125. 4. Steerage, $25. If you are sick or if you are well, it is all the same. In the one case, you can find some place that will build you up; in the other, lovely scenery, pleasant rides, and some sights which are the wonder of the world are offered to you. If you are tired, there is no country in the world that is equal to the Hawaiian Islands for "i laying off." If you are vigorous and strong, you can get all the exercise you want. If you care for social gaieties, you can find them, and find them free from the dull and stupid. conventionalities of America or Europe. If you want to rough it, you can enjoy yourself to your heart's content. If, on the other hand, you want to take things quietly, you can travel at your ease, by steam or by sail. Consult this Guide Book, and you will find trips to suit every kind of visitor. Take your ticket and trust to good fortune. It is only a week's voyage from 2 TO TURISTS' G UIDE San Francisco, and you will find the seas becoming bluer, day by day, the air balmier, the sunsets and sunrises more gorgeously tinted, till you reach the Hawaiian Paradise. THE ISLANDS. The Hawaiian Group consists of five principal islands, viz.: Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Molokai and Kauai, upon which the main portion of the inhabitants reside, and where the principal industries are carried on; three minor islands, viz.: Lanai, Kahoolawe and Niihau, where the population is very sparse, and three barren rocks, viz.: Molokini, Lehua and Kaula. Around the coasts of the larger islands are many detached islets, which will be mentioned later. The Hawaiian Islands lie in the North Pacific Ocean between the 19th and 23d parallels of latitude, and extend from longitude 155~ to 161~. They are 2,100 miles from San Francisco, 3,81.0 miles from Auckland, 4,484 miles from Sydney, 3,440 miles from Yokohama and 4,803 miles from Hongkong. The Islands are extremely picturesque, affording every -variety of scenery from gentle to sublime. The climate is the most perfect in the world, a perpetual summer. By ascending the mountains, however, more bracing weather can be obtained, until the line of perpetual frost is reached. While all parts of the group are pleasant to the ordinary traveler, for those who are suffering from pulmonary complaints, there are places which are peculiarly well suited and which, if only visited in time, may afford permanent cure to the sufferers. There are three principal ports at which the voyager may land, viz.: Honolulu on Oahu, Kahului on Maui, and Hilo on Hawaii. All these have direct communication with San Francisco, but only the first has steam communication. The latter ports can at present be reached by sailing vessels. Should the tourist desire to come down by sailing vessel, he can obtain information at the Hawaiian Consulate, 302 California street, San Francisco. THE APPROACH TO HONOLULU. Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, is the Capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, the seat of government, the official residence of the sovereign, and the commercial emporium of the entire group. tRegular steam lines connect this city with San Francisco, Auckland and Sydney. The first twice a month, the two latter once a neidbth, Oe6 nl steiamersig OcallR fero Japan anti Ahnad en rOet for San Pranisco and vice terve. Thereis quite n et* of interdli steamers connecting every Plaee of mP t With the a W ra I ing M110(1 tlin from Via atAd en t r n n run eg thie W wardor ofnorti ih r Uni and lkt iand bra9 goaqk ti11h hae cht el. On taine abr ro tg 14t wlantaiii toph nio enare vk jk in thed 1 MO mitlifie, of the *ginad The stmthiti end of O ah Is sihtred thie alatd ofa lakamai lewitig up lstearly Thei nxkitlnporta t point s Ktko Bead, and then will be sen Leai, bett known by Its Etigls. unae of Iuianttitid lint This pnart of the lVlaud thiatnu 1we in tt*lifid7 As sonas thte stelafef is ighted s in th annl tw ty ' five ile away h a tele ned frn the oer ain at Dian tionld ill eaThis s aa ext j6tmiea ea drlth dlandi An anont ~ tlf~ X,.i~ia aih~t3 s~ ~aie estPiy~ Xl~f~~ii~requ ~he;i%31a~tid al 4 TO URISTS1 G UIDE extinct volcano, which, like a couching lion, lies at the sacutireastern extremity of the bay or bight that sweeps northward to Barber's Point. From the deck of the steamer can be seen Waikiki, the seaside resort of Honolulu. Here are a number of marine resi. dences dotting the whole beach for several miles. Two handsome groves of cocoanut trees will strike the eye. Some of these trees are said to be over 200 years old. Under the northern slope of Diamond -lead will be seen the trees and verdure of Kapiolani Park. In the mountains behind will te noticed the broad mouth of Manoa Valley, and to the north of it the handsome buildings of the Lunalilo Home and many fine private residences. A mile or so farther on the houses become more numerous, and the city of Honolulu may be said to commence. It is buried in trees, only a few of the higher buildings showing up. Among these the voyager will notice the tower of Kawaiahao Church, the Government buildings, the King's Palace, Fort-street Church spire and the twin towers of Kaumakapili Church. Behind the city sweeps up Nuuanu Valley, which forms the highway across the island. The valley at its upper end is guarded by the peak of Konahuanui, ya,06 feet, south side, and Lanihuli, 2,780 feet, north side. Between these lies the Pali, a precipice 1,207 feet high. Northward of the town can be seen a glimpse of Pearl Lochs, one of the finest natural harbors in the world, and still further the Waianae mountains, which close in the view, the principal peak, Mount Kaalay 4,030 feet, showing up grandly. HONOL UL1U. On landing at the wharf, the passenger's baggage is examined by the Custom House Officers, and if the passengers have their keys ready the examination does not take long. Before landing the purser of the steamer collects $2 from each passenger for Hospital Tax. This money is devoted to the support of the: Queen's Hospital, open to all nationalities. A number of hacks will always be found ready to take passengers to their various destinations. Rates of fare are given elsewhere. All that is needed on landing is to know that from the wharf to the Hawaiian Hotel, the Hamilton or the Eagle House is twenty-five cents for each person, and twenty-five cents for each trunk or box. Ordinary hand baggage is not charged for, THRO UGfH HA W AII. 5 HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS. THE HAWAIIAN HOTEL is a commodious, well built and well kept family hotel. It was completed in the year 1872. The main building is of concrete and surrounded by large verandas, making it one of the coolest places in the city. The building contains a public reception room, large and small dining halls, suits of apartments and single rooms. In the basement are the billiard room, card room and bar. The Hotel stands in a square of about four acres of ornamental grounds. Dotted about these grounds are some dozen or more detached cottages, suitable for families, affording all the quiet of a private house, with the advantage of hotel servants and boarding arrangements. The Hawaiian Band plays in the Hotel grounds on the evening of the arrival of the steamer from San Francisco. ",THE HAMILTON " is centrally located on King street, near Fort street, in the heart of the business portion of the city. Its proprietor, Mr. H. Johnson, has recently fitted it up for the comfort and accommodation of his guests, regardless of expense, and guests will find it a pleasant and desirable family home. Connected with it is a seaside cottage at Waikiki, where its patrons can enjoy daily outings and sea baths, with every convenience pertaining to such resorts. THE EAGLE HOUSE, on Nuuanu Avenue, is a family temperance hotel. It is pleasantly situated and is convenient. The main building contains single rooms, dining room and public drawing room. There are also three cottages suitable for families. The boarding arrangements are on the table d'hote system. All these establishments are connected with the telephone system of the city, which is very perfect. No charge is made for telephoning. The lines extend in various directions to every part of the island. Tramcars run through the principal streets. There are four lines within a minute's walk of the Hawaiian Hotel, and trams pass every half-hour in front of the Eagle House and "a The Hamilton." There are a number of places, where single rooms, without board, can be obtained, varying in price according to location and accommodation. Board, without rooms, can be obtained at some of the many restaurants. We refer the tourist to our advertising columns. TO URISTS ' G UIDE THE CITY BUILDINGS. Before visiting the outskirts and viewing the scenic beauties of the island, the tourist should lay aside a day for seeing the city thoroughly. We give a short sketch of the principal points of interest. THE IOLANI PALACE is situated on King street, opposite Palace Square. The foundation stone was laid, with masonic ceremonies, December 31st, 1878, and the building was completed in 1883. It is of concrete, one hundred and forty feet long and one hundred wide. The central tower is 84 feet high. It contains forty rooms in all and cost somewhat over $500,000. The Palace contains some fine portraits of European sovereigns, which have, from time to time, been presented as gifts to the Hawaiian Monarchs. In the drawing room are some Hawaiian curios. The furnishing, however, is of ordinary modern type. Somewhat behind the Palace is the Bungalow, which contains the private apartments of the King and Queen. The palace grounds are some ten acres in extent. They are surrounded by a wall 3 feet six inches in height, and are laid out with grass and dotted with trees. The rotunda to the left of the main entrance, now used as a band stand, was the building in which the coronation of the King took place in 1883. When the King is in residence the Royal Standard flies from the centre tower. Permission to view the Palace may be obtained by application to the King's Chamberlain, through the respective national representatives or consuls. ALIIOLANI HALE or the Government Buildings (see page 16) are opposite the Palace. They were completed in 1874. The grounds in which the buildings stand are neatly kept and planted ' with palms. In front of the main entrance is a statue of Kamehameha 1. in full war costume of a Hawaiian chief. Four plaques are let intothe pedestal. No. 1-Shows the first appearance of Cook's ship, and is symbolical of the peace Kamehaneha / gave the islands. No. 2-Landing at Kealakekua Bay. No 3 -Kamehameha catching spears. No. 4-Kamehameha reviewing his fleet of canoes. On the first floor of the Government Building is the Legislative Hall, also used as a court room during the sessions of the Supreme Court. The room is decorated with several interesting portraits. THRO UGH HA WA II. 7 Looking from the dais on the right are the portraits, in colors, of W. L. Lee, first Chief Justice of the Kingdom, 1848 to 1857; G. M. Robertson, Associate Justice, 1855 to 1867; Elisha H. Allen, Chief Justice, 1857 to 1877; Charles Coffin Harris, Chief Justice, 1877 to 1881; and the High Chief Kanaina, father of the late King Lunalilo. On the left are large photographs of King Kalakaua, Queen Kapiolani, Princess Liliuokalani (Mrs. Dominis), Sister of the King, and the late Princess Likelike (Mrs. Cleghorn), sister of the King. At the end of the room over the door, Kamehmeha I.; right side, Kameameeha V.; left side, Queen Kalama, wife of Kamehameha III. In addition to the Legislative Hall, on the same floor are the offices of the Ministers of Interior and Finance, of the AttorneyGeneral, together with the Treasury, the Interior Department, the Record Office and the offices of the Board of Education. On the upper floor are the Supreme Court, the private offices of the four Justices of the Supreme Court, the Foreign Office, office of the Auditor-General, the Law Library and the National Museum. The latter is worth a visit. It contains many Hawaiian curios, especially a specimen of the feather helmet, some fine tapas (native cloth), ancient drums and spears. There are also collections of lavas, shells, ferns, etc. In the same yard, southwest of the Aliiolani Hale, is the Kapuaiwa Building, in which are the offices of the Survey Department, the Board of Public Works, the Water Works and the Tax Assessor and Collector. In a small cottage, north of the Kapuaiwa Hale are the offices of the Board of Health. THE HAWAIIAN OPERA HOUSE stands next to the Government Building on King street. It was opened to the public in 1881. It cost $40,000, and is very well fitted both before and behind the curtain. It will hold nearly 1000 people. Companies passing through give performances in the Opera House, and it is often used by amateurs both for concerts and dramatic performances. There is no regular stock company. THE BARRACKS are in the rear of the Palace. They were built in 1870. They are calculated to accommodate 200 men with their officers. At present they are occupied by the King's Guard. THE QUEEN'S HOSPITAL on Punchbowl street was erected in 1860, chiefly by the efforts of King Kamehameha IV. and his consort Queen Emma, being called after the latter lady. The ;N N N N N p N N N N N 0 - N NN NN N N N o N p N NN N 0 N N NN N.0 N N N N0 o 0N 0N N00V NN N -N N o N N NO N * N N0N N - 0N NN NO NO N N S Np N N N 0N * N NN N N ZNN N N p N0 00 N S 1110 UGH HA WAH. 9 T Y M A. buldig is opposite the rary. The first floor contains a snmall librarty and readin room, where fles of papers are kept It also contains thie offie of the secretary, a receptionl padrtf and a class room. The upper door s dtevotd to an assembly room, where meetings are held cnd musical and dramatic entertafinments are given Admission to he building is free to all. Open from 8.0 M.O to 9.80 P.s. GENERAL POST 1 FICE, HONOLULU Teir POSTOFFICn On Merehant street is a concrete building. opened for public service in 1871 Citizens have private ixes, in which their mail is deposited Strangers receive their misl on application at the Piis ffice window, after alli the city mail cs been distributed There is no house to house deliry If your letters are addressed to the car of your consul or to you hotel you will get thmen much quicker Tith Poasca S'TATION HOeS, erected in 88, stands nearly opposite the Post-Office. It contains the Police Court, the offices of the Police Magisrate, of the Marshal and of the Depy Marshal, besides cells for priors. THE OM uO JAiL, built of ora sthe in 3857, is situaod on King street, noear the MOin Rail*way et. I stands in an airy situation and commands a good view of the artr. Here are kept criminals sentened to mOre han three months' hard labor, 10 TO URISTS" G UIDE The prisoners are employed on the roads and on public works. They are well treated and a special committee supervises the work of the officers. The prisoners may be known by wearing parti-colored suits of blue and brown denim. The prisoners are in the charge of a governor under the Marshal. Application made to the latter will obtain a permit to inspect the building. THE INSANE ASYLUM, situated at Kapalama, about a mile and a half from the Jail, is a well-conducted establishment in charge of one of the government physicians. The number of insane is seldom over 60. They are of all nationalities. THE ROYAL MAUSOLEUM is situated on Nuuanu Aveinue, about a mile and a half from the center of the city. It was completed in 1865, when the remains of the Kings and those allied to them were transferred to this place. Since then all the deceased monarchs have found a resting here, save Lunalilo, for whom a special tomb was built at Kawaiahao Churchyard. It is a concrete structure, built in the shape of a cross. The Mausoleum stands in well kept grounds, which are surrounded by a handsome iron fence. THE LUNALILO HOME (see engraving), situated east of the city under the slopes of Punchbowl Hill, is an eleemosynary institution for aged and indigent Hawaiians, The funds for the buildings and also for the support of the institution come from the estate of the late King Lunalilo, who left it for the purpose by will. The establishmentis picturesquely situated and handsomrely built of Hawaiian stone. The foundation stone was laid in 1881. Most beautiful views can be obtained from the upper windows, and from the top of the tower. The inmates, who are all very aged, are well cared for, and are supplied with everything needful to their comfort. The centre of the building is occupied by the private rooms of the matron; the pensioners' apartments, dining rooms, etc., are in" both wings. THE FISH MARKET is worth a visit on Saturday afternoon, between the hours of four and six. Here the tourist will see, offered for sale, many odd creatures from the " vasty deep" which are eagerly purchased by Hawaiians for food. He will also mingle with a large crowd of Hawaiians and be able to gather some of the salient points of their character. It is a very busy scene. A new market building is among the public improvements soon to be erected. THRO UGH HAWA. II 11 PUNCHBOWL HILL. In order to obtain a complete bird's eye view of the city and a good knowledge of its environment, the tourist should ascend the Punchbowl Hill, an extinct crater lying back of the town. A good carriage road has been constructed, and the summit can be easily reached. The view is very fine, extending from Waikiki to far beyond Pearl Lochs. The city lies at one's feet like a map, and every detail can be clearly traced. The best times for making the ascent are early in the morning, before breakfast, or in the afternoon after four o'clock. To go up by moonlight affords a beautiful scene, more like a fairy land than anything earthly. Ladies going up at night should take wraps, as it is apt to be quite windy and cold on the summit. The views from various points of this new drive are charming; in fact most of the lee side of Oahu, from Diamond Head to the Waianae mountains, is spread out in one grand continuous panorama. Immediately below the hill lies the city with its numerous houses scattered among numerous groves, so distinctly that with a glass every house can be singled out as far as James Campbell's residence in Kapiolani Park on the south, to the dwellings along and beyond the Moanalua hills in the west, a distance of four or five miles in each direction. Then there are the harbor, shipping, reefs, and breaking surf, with the ocean beyond, and the innumerable rice, taro, and fish ponds, scattered over the whole expanse, and outlined as distinctly as on a map. In the distance lie Pearl River with its lochs and islands, and the shores along which are now scattered hamlets, where soon settlements will spring up. The route of the new railway may be traced along the shore of the lagoon, past Dr. McGrew's seaside villa, then on to Ewa, where will be located the warehouses of the Railway Co.; and in the near future the track will pass on to the Ewa Sugar Plantation, near the entrance to Pearl Harbor. It is doubtful whether a more extended and beautiful view can be obtained from any one point in our famed Paradise of the Pacific. PLACES OF WORSHIP. The following is a list of the places of worship in Honolulu, together with their times of service: Central Union Church (Congregational), Beretaniastreet. Services every Sunday at 11 A.M. and 7.30 P.M. Sunday School meets one hour before morning service. Prayer meeting Wednesday evenings at 7.30. 12 TO URISTS' GUIDE St. Andrew's Cathedral (Episcopal), Emma Square. First Congregation. Services on Sunday, Holy Communion at 6.30 A.M.: Morning prayer, with sermon, at 9.30 A.M.; Hawaiian Evensong, 3.30 P.M.; Evening prayer, with sermon, 6 P.M. Holy Communion at 9.30 A.M. the last Sunday in each month. Sunday School 11 A.M. Daily prayer at 7 A.M. and 5 P.M. Second Congregation. Services on Sunday. Morning prayer, with sermon, 11.15 A.M.; Evening prayer, with sermon, 7.30 P.M.; Holy Communion, first Sunday in month, 11.15 A.M. Sunday School 10 A.M. Evening prayer, with address, every Wednesday at 7.30 P.M. Roman Catholic Church, Fort street, near Beretania. Services every Sunday at 5 and 10 A.M., and 4.30 P.M. Low mass every day at 6 and 7 A.M. High Mass Sundays and Saints' Days at 10 A.M. Kawaiahao Church (Hawaiian Congregational), corner King and Punchbowl streets. Services in Hawaiian every Sunday at 11 A.M., and at 7.30 on Sunday Evening, alternating with Kaumakapili. Sunday School at 9.30 A.M. Prayer meeting Wednesday at 7.30 P.M. Kaumakapili Church (Hawaiian Congregational), Beretania street, near Maunakea. Services in Hawaiian every Sunday at 10.30 A.M. and 7.30 P.M. on Sunday evenings, alternating with Kawaiahao. Sunday School at 9.30 A.M. Prayer meeting Wednesday at 7.30 P.M. Christian Chinese Church, Fort street. Services every Sunday at 10.30 A.M. and 7.30 P.M. Prayer meeting Wednesday at 7.30 P.M. There is also a Mormon Church on Punchbowl street, a meeting house of the Seventh Day Adventists on Fort street, and a Chinese Joss House near Beretania street, close to Kaumakapili Church. NOTES ON CHURCH BUILDINGS. KAWAIAHAO CHURCH is one of the oldest buildings in the city, having been commenced in 1840. It is a plain coral edifice. Besides being used as a church it has been the scene of some of the notable events in Hawaiian history, as the Kings taking the oath to support the constitution. A marble slab let into the west corner conimemorates the death of David Douglas, a celebrated naturalist and botanist who was killed on Hawaii, July 12, 1834, by falling into a bullock pit, as is described in volume 2, page 429, of the Hawaiian Spectator. Another marble slab on the north corner is to the memory of the first pastor of this church, the Rev. Hiram Bingham. To the right of the entrance gate is the mausoleum of the late King Lunalilo and of his father, the High Chief Charles Kanaina. At the rear of the Church is a small cemetery where lie many of those attached to the early protestant mission and their descendants. A large Hawaiian cemetery is also found on the south side. The Church is built of coral blocks, plastered within and without. THR 0 UGH HA WA II.L i8 THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH was also commenced in 1840. The interior decorations, which are very fine, have only been finished within the last few years. ST. ANDREW'S EPISCOPAL CATHEDRAL had its corner stone laid in 1860, but nothing except the foundation was put down till 1887. Building operations were then undertaken, and the structure was partially completed in 1888. It may be many years before anything further is done. The building is of Hawaiian stone, while the ornamental work and columns came from England. The remaining churches are all of modern date and of wood, except Kaumakapili Church, which is built of red brick. The interior is handsomely finished, and there is a fine organ. THE SCHOOLS. Those interested in school matters should visit the following in or near Honolulu. THE ROYAL SCHOOL, situated at the head of Emma street, is a large Government School for Hawaiian boys. It was originally founded as a school for the young chiefs, but has changed its character. The tuition is free. FORT-STREET SCHOOL, situated at the head of Fort street, is a large Government mixed school. It is attended chiefly by whites and half-whites. OAHIU COLLEGE, situated about two and a half miles from town, at the entrance to Manoa Valley, Is an establishment originally founded for the education of the children of the American missionaries. It has now a wider field. The institution is well endowed and possesses some fine buildings and handsome grounds. ST. Louis COLLEGE, located at the west end of Beretania street, hear Smith's Bridge, is a Roman Catholic School conducted by the Brothers of Mary. It is pleasantly situated, has considerable grounds, with well constructed buildings. KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOLS, situated on King street, about two miles from town, were founded in accordance with the will of the late Chiefess Bernice Pauahi Bishop. They are industrial schools for all of Hawaiian blood. They possess ample grounds and many handsome buildings, workshops, etc., and a preparatory department, the gift of the Hon. C. R. Bishop. On these grounds has recently been erected the Bishop Museum, a handsome stone building, which will contain a fine collection of Hawaiian curios. 14 14TO URISTS' I tIDE There are a number of smaller schools in the city and its vicinity; the above, however, if visited, will give a pretty fair idea of the school system on the islands. The schools are in session from the middle of January to the end of June, and a few somewhat later; also from the middle of September to the last week in December. Visitors will find no difficulty in obtaining access to any of the schools. TRIPS AROUND THE CITY. Tourists are of many ways of thinking, and their purses vary from very long to very slim. However, what can be seen by going in a carriage can also be seen if you go on foot, while there are some places which can only be reached by the pedestrian, and which those who drive never see. After describing some of the best known trips, we will indicate some of the less known. THE PALI. Distance from Honolulu six miles. Time, if limited, three hours. Carriage fare-One passenger, each way, $3.00; two pas. sengers, each way, $4.00; three passengers, each way, $5.00. Saddle horses cost from $3.00 to $5.00 a day. Large parties can arrange for wagonettes from any of the livery stables. The road leads by a gradual ascent from the sea level to a height of 1,200 feet, while the mountains on either side tower up to over three thousand feet. A mile and a half from town the cemeteries will be passed; they are neatly kept and contain many hundred tombs of those who have found a last resting place, far from their childhood's homes. A little further up is the Royal Mausoleum, the last resting place of Hawaiian Royalty. Nearly three miles from town are the electric light works; these are situated on the left hand side of the road. As he proceeds the tourist will see something of the water system of Honolulu, passing two reservoirs which supply a portion of the water for the town. There is another reservoir in Makiki Valley. About four miles up on the right hand side, a little off the road, are the walls of a stone house once occupied by Kamehameha III., but long since abandoned. The remains form a picturesque ruin. Behind the house is a picturesque waterfall, seldom visited by tourists, but well worth seeing; it can only be reached on foot. As one continues to ascend the scenery becomes grander, the vegetation more tangled and dense, and the air perceptibly cooler. THIRO UGH HA WAII. 15 The gently sloping sides of the lower valley are now changed to lofty precipices, to which ferns, ti and creeping plants precari. ously cling. At the upper end the valley first opens out into a magnificent amphitheatre and then contracts to only a few hundred yards, showing a gap through which the wind often rushes with tremendous force. At the foot of the last ascent, it is customary to leave the carriage, and proceed on foot. Horsemen can ride to the edge, but if the object of the visitor is merely to see the view, it is better to tether the horses before reaching the edge, as they are apt to be in the way. Both carriages and horses, however, are frequently taken down the precipice by regular travelers. Ascending the last hill a sudden turn puts you at the edge of the precipice, which is for a short distance protected by an iron rail. The Pali certainly affords a magnificent view; unequaled for wildness and for rich coloring. The road takes an abrupt turn to the right and plunges down the face of the cliff, winding and zigzaging along for the distance of a mile before it reaches the undulating plain below. On each side tower lofty peaks, and stretching away to the northwest is a continuous wall of fern. covered rock and frowning precipices ending in fine mountain masses and a striking headland, Kualoa, which closes the view at the north. Below is a rolling country, dotted with sugar and rice plantations, affording brilliant greens from the crops and russet browns from the plowed fields, while the aboriginal vegetation throws in the deeper shades. The nearest group of buildings is Kaneohe village, beyond is Heeia, whose sugar mill may be discovered. The island, opposite the distant point, is Mokolii, a mere rock with a few cocoanuts growing on one of its least precipitous sides. The sea coast has a magnificent sweep, and with care the eye can distinguish the outline of the fish ponds that fringe the shore, where fish are fattened for consumption. These ponds are enclosed by stone walls built out into the shallow waters of the bay, with openings through which the tide may come in. A reef with openings at either end guards the wide mouth of the bay. On this, the surf of the ocean which stretches its unbroken breadth to the western shores of the American continent, forever thunders. "It never is silent, it cannot rest, There must be heaving on Ocean's breast." 16 TO URISTS G UIDE The colors of the sea here are exquisite: ultra-marine, lapis' lazuli, indigo, every shade of blue, and here and there the most startling streaks of brilliant emerald green. By descending the road to the first turn a pretty little spring can be reached. It contains excellent water which drips through from the cliff above. Historically the Pall is interesting. It was here that Kalanikupouli, the principal chief of Oahu, made his last stand against Kamehameha I., the chief who conquered and thus consolidated the government of all the islands during the concluding years of last century. The decisive battle took place in May, 1795. The people of Oahu fought with great bravery but finally broke and fled. Numbers of them were driven over the precipice and dashed to pieces on the rocks below. Skulls and bones can still be found at the foot, relics of the unfortunate warriors who fell for the independence of their island. WAIKIKI. Distance from Honolulu four miles; round Kapiolani Park six miles. Time, if limited, one hour and a half. Carriage fare: One passenger, each way, $1.00; two passengers, each way, $1.50; three passengers, each way, $2.00. The same rates of fare are charged if taken by the hour, time to be counted from the time of starting to the time of dismissal. Tramcar fare-Every passenger, each way, ten cents. A time table of cars can be obtained either at the hotels, boarding houses or at the central office of the Hawaiian Tramways Company on King street, a few doors from Nuuanu street. WAI-KI-KI is the seaside resort of Honolulu, its Long Branch, its Brighton or its Trouville. There are a number of private residences, picturesque-looking bungalows, unpretentious cottages, but all very airy and comfortable, close to the murmuring sea. A very fine cocoanut grove is one of the features of the place. The southern portion of this used to be a favorite abode of the Kings of Oahu, before the conquest, and since theh has belonged to the Ramehameha family. It is now owned by the Hon. C. R. Bishop to whom it descended from his Wife, the High Chiefess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, the last of the Kamehameha family. THE LONG BRANCH BATHS are situated next to the Kamehameha property, comfortable dressing rooms, fresh water douches, etc., are provided. The sea bathing is simply perfection. The ~le a ~-p~a ~_~ 2;:~ ~-~a *c -" ii^"-i'ni~:Re aSI'II a~R % ":Y;b j L i Y". j611 \"- i:.'i:; ~tl dI":bl`i,;~`a,?ii "- ES9i :rXP "- ~i8;. -, ,i: 5* -i' Pa ii am:'"" -; 9 -"`a I.-.* s-i~i~,.Y b;n. " E4r *, g~Qi**i B i* ii" r a;; rs. " n a sY p, i-*7E "i"ei" L.rr *ZiY _ii :.~LL"II"L- is gi, 'xL~ ~"~~:*."~~.,*J,,;: i.s ri, l~x; w~ii;~% aagixa 5.;':.b.""EI~El iii. 8-ib iB-* r'iiR"'"Q'* 98 ~LibBI-ES SL"g, rs 8'n! c i~rB2 ur i81 T*tBs i, e;~: nSi9i9'eii S a IanYi s*IC hlqi.~ (iil Is sll;p-r~ ga ~r irr 6~,i~ _.,r~s ~Ji; ~;s l x~rbi i~- as ~d~-1 ~SI i "6" IEIllll sr;""::i I P~,;.u. iO -E: "~:lis rBC;-i~~si ___*ir _, r.~1 ~rax "' r"`Cpr i~~ig,~i 1;~I -I"V a. IPr"~u X: g, " sr;a,~-~ eirc —~- 1'~~1II~;;I.r` b t Bi itr ~i"a "~..n I i"~" 5; i.,s;a8~i~ a,""" ""'""S" aY~i. ~! Ii "~~ c.: ~ssii '~:~~"~I""'" t J,w. ~e ~~~;~l.,,*c ~,:~ 1- ~ir~ralcsii a~~ p.E~i ir aa'" fBS a el BIFgl~~I;%IULllleHBEPB',,ILIB \~: rs .. EB El -" -Il;"s " orRA. rrgre3Efl GIOLU'LTJ, THRO UGT HA WAII. 17 water is never chilly; and yet it is most healthful and invigorating. The bottom is of nice smooth sand, always warm and pleasant to the feet. There is no fear of undertow or of any finny monsters. Not only is it. pleasant to bathe here during the day, but moonlight bathing is indulged in. This is really charming, and anyone who has not experienced its delights, has a joy to count, be he never so blaze. A toboggan slide has been added to the attractions of the place. Let the visitor go down and try it. It is a novelty, worth seeing, if not trying. A little beyond the Long Branch Baths, on the left hand side of the road, is tlhe marine residence of King Kalakaua. It is a simple, unpretending, wooden structure, standing in a large lot planted with cocoanut trees. Behind it is the residence of the Hon. A. S. Cleghorn, father of the Princess Kaiulani. This is one of the most charming of private residences. Thoroughly tropical in character, and standing amid grounds crowded with rare and costly trees, shrubs and plants. KAPIOLANI PARK. Crossing a long bridge, the tourist will reach Kapiolani Park. This was commenced in 1875 and contains about 200 acres. The late Captain Makee, one of our pioneer sugar planters, took great interest in this undertaking, and assisted largely in laying out the walks and drives. In honor of him, the little island, lying in the piece of ornamental water, to the left of the entrance to the Park, is named " Makee Island." A drive round the Park is very enjoyable; there are charming shady nooks for picnics and some pretty residences are dotted around. The race track is situated in the centre of the Park. This was laid out in 1876. It is at present leased to the Hawaiian Jockey Club, under whose management the principal race meetings are conducted. Connected with the track are the Grand Stand, the Jockey Club House, also a number of private stands, stables, saddling paddock, etc.* Race meetings take place about twice a year. Many small matches are run at odd times, as a rule on some Saturday or general holiday. HORSEBACK RIDES AND WALKS IN THE VICINITY OF HONOLULU. MOUNT TANTALUS is a peak 2,013 feet high, just back of the town. It can be ascended on horseback to within a few hundred yards of the top, when it is better to tether the horses and pro. 2 i8 TO UIISTS' G UIDE ceed on foot. The ride is very picturesque, affording an endless panorama of ever changing -views, noticeable among which is that of Pauoa Valley, an exceptionally fertile spot in its lower part. From the summit a magnificent view of the whole western and southern parts of the islands can be obtained. On a clear day the mountains of Molokai, Maui, Lanai and even of Hawaii, can be seen lying like blue clouds on the distant waters. Proceeding from the summit inland the head of Manoa Valley is reached, or rather the precipice which overhangs the head. Here is obtained a lovely glimpse of well cultivated lands, chiefly planted in taro and fruit, lying at the bottom of a broad valley, whose precipitous sides are clothed from summit to base with the most luxuriant tropical vegetation, revelling in every shade of green from the light of the wild banana to the deep, almost green-black of the ohia. In the far distance is Diamond Head and the ocean, magnificent in contrast of color. This spot is an excellent one for the fern collector; many rare varieties are to be found within quite a small space. Besides ferns there are many curious plants in the vicinity, and these uplands are the abode of several species of land'shells for which the islands are famous. Persons making this expedition should carry a lunch with them and a bottle of water or beer, as the water in the lake, near the summit, is usually very muddy. PAUOA VALLEY, reached by the Pauoa Valley Road, affords a pleasant trip and gives opportunities for fern gathering and botanizing. The lower part of the valley is very well cultivated, and the visitor will have an opportunity of seeing the method of growing taro, (arum esculentum) the root of which forms the chief food of the native population in most parts of the islands. MAKIKI VALLEY, in the rear of the Lunalilo Home, is a pleasant spot with a pretty waterfall at its head. At the mouth is the Makiki Reservoir which supplies the southern portion of the city with water. While visiting this valley it is well worth while to ascend the northern side and go through the government tree plantation. This was commenced in 1882 and has been quite successful. The experiment proves that with care all our bare slopes might, in time, be covered with a thick forest of valuable timber. The trees planted here are chiefly imported varieties including a very large number of the Australian wattle. MANOA VALLEY, behind Oahu College, presents at first sight the appearance of an amphitheatre, but narrows gradually. The THR 0 ITGH HA WA 11.II 19 sides are very precipitous, and at its head is a fine waterfall, falling into a basin, which affords a very pleasant bath. PALOLO VALLEY, lying next east or beyond Manoa and behind Diamrond Head, is the Paradise of the botanist. At the head there is an extinct crater whose sides are clothed with forest ferns, mosses and climbers. A writer in a recent publication says he has here collected twenty-five different varieties of ferns in a circle of one hundred feet in diameter. The latter part of this trip has to be made on foot and it is quite a little climb. KOKO HEAD requires a more extended expedition. It is a fine extinct crater about nine miles east from Honolulu. The tourist should go out through the Park and round Diamond Head, in itself a beautiful ride. On the other side of the headland is the scene of Kamehameha I.'s battle with the Oahu chiefs. A large number of warriors fell and were buried in the sand. Skulls and bones can still be found in abundance simply by scraping the sand away. Many have been taken away and placed in museums in the United States and in Europe. Close to the battle field is the cocoanut grove of Waialae, the finest on the Island of Oahu. Koko Head is bare of vegetation and is an admirable study for the geological student. On the southwest side is a little bay Celebrated as being an excellent fishing station. From here the inter-island cable starts for the Island of Molokai. The tourist on returning should keep to the main road, leading back of Diamond Head and past the mouth of Palolo Valley. KALIHI VALLEY lies behind the Kamehameha Schools, to the north of the city. A fair carriage road, or perhaps better oh horseback, reaches nearly to the head of the valley. The sides of the valley, which are quite steep, are covered with bananas and other fruit plantations. Most of these plantations are owned by Portuguese, of whom a considerable number are settled in the valley, which, from its proximity to Honolulu, is especially suitable for small cultivators. The principal part of the fruit, here raised, is shipped by the steamers to Sal Francisco. The upper part of the valley is very picturesque, and after the carriage road ceases, it becomes quite wild. A forenoon spent in Kalihi Valley will repay any one. A ride out to the Salt Lake at Moanalua, either by the steamcars or on horseback, will give a good idea of the country northwest of the town. The Salt Lake itself, which is separated from the sea by a low range of hills, is an object of interest. The TO URIST' S G UIDE shores, for fifty yards, are covered with a snow white incrustation of salt. The Lake rises and falls with the tide, thus evidently having a subterranean communication with the sea. After viewing the Lake the visitor should proceed along the main road till a little past the fifth milestone, when a fine view of the Pearl Lo2hs, the immense fields of rice which fringe their shores and the adjacent rolling country, can be seen from the crest of the Moanalua Hill. Besides these few expeditions that have been sketched out, there are many more which the tourist, according to his taste, can learn for himself. If the visitor makes a systematic exploration around the city on foot or on the tramcar, he can fill up a great deal of spare time at small expense and obtain much enjoy-.ment. For the amateur artist, there is amusement in the lovely scenery; for the botanist in the 150 varieties of ferns and the countless varieties of tropical plants, he will find in the cool nooks of the valleys; for the naturalist in the rare fish (in search of which a pleasant boating excursion may be made to Pearl Lochs) and in the land shells, many of which are unique, and in the insect life; for the geologist in the various igneous forlnations, the volcanic cones and the distinct signs of sudden upheaval which are to be found a mile or so from the present coast line; for the political student, in the varied phases of life, in the study of races of varying civilization living in close contact together, in the experiments made at governing such a heterogeneous mass of humanity as the country presents; and finally for the weary, the man who is worn with business cares, who has no interest in the above pursuits-REST. All the above trips can be made as picnics in large or small parties, which makes them the more enjoyable. Before leaving the subject of Honolulu, attention must be called to the baseball ground, situated at Makiki, where the "national game" is played by various clubs, organized into a league. The greatest interest is taken in the amusement and on the Saturdays, when league games are played, they are viewed by anywhere from 500 to 5,000 spectators. There is a pavilion for the accommodation of spectators. Admission is free. On Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Band plays in Emma Square. On moonlight nights, it frequently plays either in the grounds of the Hawaiian Hotel or at Thomas Square, between Be'etrania: ad King strets. Notices of the concerts always THRO UGH HA WAII. 21 appear in the local press. The band consists entirely of Hawaiian players trained by the Bandmaster Mr. H. Berger, formerly a bandmaster in the Prussian Army. There are twenty-nine pieces in the full band. In 1884 the band visited San Francisco, and won the highest praise, establishing itself as the best body of instrumentalists west of Chicago. The Hawaiian National Anthem, Hawaii Ponoi," which closes each concert, is the composition of Mr. Berger. Of the social life of the city, it is hardly necessary for a guide to speak. Those who come here with letters to our prominent citizens at once enter upon it. Those, who do not, will have to wait for time to show what they are. If their conduct is satisfactory, they will soon gain access to one of the pleasantest societies in the world. The people of Honolulu and of the Islands in general are very hospitable, and it only requires visitors to show what they truly are, to soon make warm and faithful friends. Dancing parties, riding parties, picnics, moonlight bathing parties, etc., make the social life of the islands very bright and enjoyable. There is an absence of stiffness which everyone who comes here notices, and which everyone comments upon favorably. Elsewhere is given full information relative to carriage fare in and around the city. THE ISLAND OF OAIHU Is forty-six miles long, twenty-five miles broad and has an area of 600 square miles. The population at the last census was 28,068, of which over 20,000 belong to Honolulu and its vicinity. The present population of the city is estimated at 25,000. The Island is divided into five districts, viz.: Honolulu, Ewa and Waianae, Waialua, Koolauloa, and Koolaupoko. Though after seeing the city and its surroundings, the tourist will most probably go to the Volcano, yet before describing that grand phenomena, it may be better to give a short sketch of the Island of Oahu, and to lay out one or two routes which the traveller may take in order to become better acquainted with the Islands. ROUTE I-Over the Pall via Punaluu and Kahuku to Waialua, returning to Honolulu over the Leilehua table land. Distance 22 TO URIISTS' G UIDE seventy-nine miles. Time, from five to six days. Can be done in three days if the traveller is hurried. Method of transit, carriage or saddle horse. ROUTE 2-Round Diamond and Koko heads to Waimanalo, returning to Honolulu via the Pali. Time, one to two days. Method of transit, saddle horse only. ROUTE 3-Waianae per steamer. Time, two days, allowing twentyfour hours stay at Waianae. Fare, $1.00. ROUTE 4-Complete circuit of the Island, combining the three above routes. Time, ten days. Method of transit, saddle horse only. As to time of starting and so forth, the tourist must decide for himself. Route No. 1 may be made in any time over three days at the will of the traveller. To do it in three days is simply to "- do it" and to see nothing but the scenery on the road, and that very hastily. The points of interest are described and the tourist must consult his own convenience as to time. One thing must be remembered by anyone going round this island, and that is that there are no hotels. By application to people in Honolulu tourists can always obtain letters that will give them access to comfortable quarters for the night. If the traveller, however, likes to rough it, and to take chances, he will always find quarters in the native houses. But wherever the tourist stays, whether it be in the mansion of the planter or the hut of the poorest native, he will meet with true hospitality, and he, on his side, must remember that he is on sufferance, and that it is not his right to call for this or that as if he were at an hotel. He must adapt himself to his surroundings. ROUTE I. This is the route generally taken, and though not making a complete circuit, is generally called Rt Round the Island." The course is up Nuuanu Valley and over the Pali. These. have already been described (p. 14). On reaching the foot of the Pali, a ride of a couple of miles over a rolling country will bring the traveller to the village of KANEOHE. The village is small, the main number of houses being away from the high road towards the sea. There is here a small sugar plantation, (Manager M. Rose,) the cane being ground at HEEIA PLANTATION. HEEIA VILLAGE is two miles further on. The plantation, (Ewart, Man-' ager,) is of considerable extent, and the sugar mill is a very fine one. A little beyond the mill, there used to be an extensive swamp, which has of late been converted into rice fields. On the far side of the swamp the main road turns to the right, following THRO UGH HA WAII. 28 the shore, while a bridle path to the left leads over to AHUIMAN'U. This is a model dairy farm, which supplies some of the best butter in the Honolulu market. It is the property of Mr. H. MIaefarlane. KAALAEA, an extensive rice plantation, 14 miles from Honolulu, will be reached by following the main road. The views along this portion of the road are very fine. The mountain scenery, to the left of the rider, is grand. High cliffs, deep ravines, and tiny threads of waterfalls are seen, while to the right and in front, are the everchanging colors of the sea and the. beautiful curves of the bay. WAIATIOLE and WAIKANE, between two and three miles from Kaalaea, are also rice plantations. All these plantations, in fact all rice plantations over the islands, are owned and cultivated by Chinese. At Waikane there are two churches, one Congregational, one Roman Catholic, on opposite sides of the road. They form a good land mark. As one approaches the point, the cliffs become very precipitous, and the summits take all kinds of fantastic shapes, which have received various names. One pinnacle of rock looks exactly like a hen and chickens and is so named, while another has the appearance of an eagle. KUALOA, twenty miles from Honolulu, is an extensive stock ranch, owned by Col. C. H. Judd. Fine horses are bred here from good imported stock. The house is pleasantly situated not far from the foot of the lofty cliffs that rise over 1,200 feet above it. The view from here looking towards the Nuuanu Pali is exceptionally beautiful, and before turning round the point, the tourist should look back and thoroughly enjoy it. Not far from the house are the ruins of an abandoned sugar mill, together with the bare walls of some of the laborers' cottages. Both here and at Kaalaea a considerable amount of money was sunk in sugar some eighteen or twenty years ago, but both locations proved unsuitable. These were pioneer plantations, however, and from their mistakes others learned. Rounding the point is the Valley of KAAWA, forming part of the Kualoa estate. Beyond Kaawa the road is, for a distance, somewhat sandy in places. The cliffs still maintain their fantastic outlines, and in one spot, take exact similitude of a couching lion. Mane, outstretched paws, tufted tail curled over the back are all perfect. So perfect is the illusion that people always think sketches made of it are greatly exaggerated. 24 TO URIS'TS' G UIDE KAHANA VALLEY, which is reached soon after passing the "Lion," is one of the most picturesque spots on the Island of Oahu. There is a most perfect bay, sweeping in a semicircle; the beach is of yellow sand. The valley, somewhat over a mile in width, extends far back into the mountains, showing in the distance a wilderness of green. Down the centre winds a considerable stream, over which, near its mouth, a bridge is thrown. Houses and native huts dot the landscape, while patches of rice, sweet potatoes and taro relieve the monotonous sea of primeval verdure. Fish are very plentiful in the bay and the population possess quite a number of canoes. It is a pretty sight to see them all out on a good fishing day. Punaluu is reached within a short time of leaving Kahana. Here is a very large rice plantation, extending a considerable distance up the valley, and occupying all the lower land at its mouth. The population at this place is almost exclusively Chinese, large numbers being settled here with their wives. Quite a considerable village extends along the shore, and houses are to be seen far away up the valley. HAUULA, twenty-eight and one-half miles from Honolulu, has some rice fields, and stock raising is carried on. There is a considerable native population. The traveller should make it a point to visit the KALIUWAA VALLEY, which is behind HAUULA. For this a guide will have to be obtained. Almost any of the natives around will be willing to undertake the task. The valley is really a cleft in the mountains, with almost precipitous sides. The vegetation is very dense, showing varieties of almost every tree and plant found on Oahu. The groves of Ohia-ai, or Mountain Apple, are very fine. This tree produces a fruit of waxy appearance, sweet and very refreshing. The blossom is a deep pink, and when in flower the tree presents a brilliant appearance, while the ground underneath is literally covered with the fallen petals. At the head of the valley is a fine waterfall, with lofty, fern-clad cliffs on either side. This leaps into a pool whose waters are almost ice cold, and extend back into the mysterious gloom of a cavern under the cliffs. Two curious formations called by the Hawaiians waa, or canoes (hence the name, Kaliuwaa, the valley of the canoe,) are quite striking. They are semicircular cuts in the cliff, extending from the base to the top, for all the world like the half of a well. They have evidently been formed by water, but they are unique. In no other part of the islands is a similar WHEN NOON AT LONDON -15815 158~10 158~05' Longitude 158~00 West from 157055' Greenwich 157~50' 157~45' 10.3 PM. /i ' 15740' 111N NCO AT LONDON Kahuku 7 k P. ahUiIii -^' Ranch KAHUKU ", Waim __. / I IL I ~~~~~~~4 0 0 " < i,( X, "\\ ite Pt. OAHU FROM GOVERNMENT SURVEY MAP BY W.A. M/all. I 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 MILES 1887. 1~4( '.iN "x Waialuaf DWaialua -- \ \ 1o~3 _ _____ V___ riYlaa re _____ _ X___ ' H umia _ _ _ _ ___-_. - '~3 3enai. --- _am\ Kal ut.na Kana, W AA L U A Pna.u \ Pt l |' ^\K ala....... '.t, _ ___ — ____ i 4 " '";.OL.... ]T7 \ -----— <^y>*j ^.-. — '~' ANWAIKANEE \ '_ / \ \ ^ \ if 2.... "atao/o 1Pr: <. o. MO L o B rbr IPt HO'\SUU WAIt A ' TS. ', Mh okapu Pt. /| / /i " ' /H i\ K\Leahi or SH EA D A N b ~ Diamond.?ad, 1_ _ _,__ -. _. _ _ _ _ _ _- -.._._ 158~~~ ~~~_ 1 z./' )-:/- ~l o &20 -_ Tanta H oluls or, a l Barber's Pt. i J - ' Ile hi or PARK ^ L 0,~~~~~ Diam ~~ ond He~~~~~~ad\~~~~~~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~1~50' 1 5_5' 5 ~ t0 ' 7 THRO UGH HA WAII. 25 formation found. The valley is sacred to Kamapuaa, a native demigod, half pig, half man. He it is who is supposed to have made the "t canoe " in order to escape from the wrath of Pelo, the Goddess of fire. He misbehaved himself and the natives of the valley called in her powerful assistance. When the hunt for him commenced, men were sent up the sides of the valley to " spot" hin. The man who did so was at once turned into stone, the pinnacle will be pointed out by a good guide. Pele beat the demigod, and in revenge he swallowed enough sea-water to put out the fires of Diamond Head. At any time the ascent of the valley is made, offerings of fresh leaves will be found to the deity of the valley. They consist of a bunch of leaves under a stone. Superstition holds fast, though the population is christian. The scenery now changes in character. The cliffs cease and are replaced by grass covered hills, while the low land between the hills and the sea is nearly level, and in most places covered with grass. From this place to WAIALUA the country is devoted almost entirely to raising cattle. LAIE, thirty-two miles from Honolulu, is the head-quarters of the Mormons on these Islands. The settlement possesses a small sugar plantation, (with a somewhat primitive mill) a cattle ranch, a number of taro patches and land for sweet potatoes and other products. A number of white Mormons, under a head man from Salt Lake City, occupy the Mission premises, which are situated on a hill overlooking the whole settlement. These have the supervision of the entire estate in various capacities, and are also sent out as missionaries round the islands. There is a considerable and quite a prosperous native settlement, all Mormons. The converts have land given them, rent free, and are assisted in building their houses. Polygamy is not allowed either among whites or natives, and the settlement is conducted on lines satisfactory to the most ultra portion of Mormon opponents. The Mormons first came to the Islands in 1850. They have a large number of converts in all parts of the group. (Estimated at one tenth in 1889). The Temple at Laie, which has only been recently erected, will accommodate considerably over 1,000 people. A valley behind the mission-house contains two artesian wells and is cultivated in rice by Chinese. An artesian well also supplies a part of the plantation with water. KAIHKtT, (owned by Mr. James Campbell), thirty-eight miles from Honolulu is a large cattle ranch. The entrance to the resi 28 TO URISTS' G UIDE and was celebrated for its racing stock, some of the most prominent winners having come from there. The estate is the property of Mr. John A. Cummins, to whom it descended from his father, one of the pioneer settlers on the islands. Leaving Waimanalo, a ride across a somewhat steep ridge brings the traveller to KAILUA, a very pretty valley, the upper part of which is devoted to cattle raising while the low lands towards the coast are planted in rice. The scenery around Kailua is very green, trees and vegetation of all kinds flourish, and there is an ample supply of water. Four miles from Kailua the foot of the Pali is reached, and from thence to Honolulu the route has been already described (see p 14). The trip to Waimanalo can be made by steamer, which leaves Honolulu twice a week. The landing is good. ROUTE III. WAIANAE is best reached from Honolulu by steamer. A vessel leaves Honolulu for this place every Monday and Thursday at 9 A.M., returning the next day. The voyage down takes about three hours, and being on the lee side of the island, is usually very smooth. A good idea of the " profile" of the island is obtained, and as the vessel glides along over the azure water the scene is constantly changing. Fishing canoes are often met with, tiny specks of things, with wee sails that look only fit for a toy boat, and yet they run from eight to twelve miles out to sea, and at times even farther. Waianae is a pretty village, situated within an amphitheatre of mountains. The sugar mill is the most prominent building, and is situated near the shore. The plantation (A. Ahrens, Manager), is some distance from the mill, a line of railway connects the fields with the mill, and the laborers are taken by it to the fields in the morning and returned at night. For anyone desirous of seeing a sugar plantation in good working order, and not caring to undertake much exertion, Waianae is perhaps the most convenient place to go to. It is not well to make the trip in southerly w eather, as then the voyage is apt to be rough and the landing unpleasant. In trade-wind weather, which prevails most of the year, the voyage is delightful and the landing very good. Waianae can be reached by land in from six to seven hours. The sea route is preferable. THIRO'UGH HA AWAII. 29 THE ISLAND OF HA WAII. The object of nine-tenths of the visitors who come to the islands is to see the Volcano of Kilauea. This is situated on the Island of Hawaii, and can be reached by two routes, viz.: via Punaluu or via Hilo. Route 1, via Punaluu, per S. S. W. G. Hall, fare for round trip $50. Route 2, via Hilo, per S. S. Kinau, fare for the round trip, $50. The charge in each case includes steamer fare, horses, guides and board at the Volcano House. Time, one week. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND. Hawaii is the largest of the Hawaiian Islands, having an area of 4,210 square miles. Its greatest length is ninety miles, its breadth seventy-four miles, and the population according to the last census was 24,991. It is divided into eight districts, viz.: North Kohala, South Kohala, Hamakua, Hilo, Puna, Kau, South Kona and North Kona. When viewed from a distance the island seems formed of three large domes, viz. the mountains of Mauna-loa (13,650 feet), ~Mauna-kea (13,805 feet), and Hualalai (8,273 feet). The slope of all these mountains is very gentle and it is difficult to realize their height. Being of such large size, the climate of the island varies considerably. The eastern or windward side of the island receives the trade-wind showers, and is consequently well watered, and the country is much cut up by deep gulches, while on the western or leeward side the trade-wind is shut off by the mountain masses in the centre of the island. The climate along this coast is dry, and for miles no running streams are to be found. Ascending the mountains, every variety of climate is encountered until frost is reached. At the summits of Mauna-loa and Mauna-kea there is always some snow, but in winter the snow cap extends for ten or a dozen miles down their sides. The most fertile parts of the island are along the north-eastern coast and in the extreme southern part. It is in these parts that the large sugar plantations are located. Considerable tracts of land are quite barren, consisting of twisted masses of lava and scoriae, and presenting a wonderful scene of desolation. 80 TO UrUISTS G UIDE VOLCANO ROUTE I. Inter-Island Steamship (ompany's Steamer W. G. Flall, 380 tons, 417 horse power. Leaves Honolulu every ten (lays on Tuesdays and Fridays alternately. Sailing hour 10 A.M. Tourists should have with them an extra pair of old shoes for walking over the crater floor. They should'also be provided with water-proofs. Time allowed at the Crater two nights and one day. The points of interest to be seen on leaving the Island of Oahu have already been enumerated (p. 4). After passing KOKO HEAD, the Kaiwi or Oahu Channel will be entered on, which, in its narrowest part is twenty-three miles in width. This the steamer soon runs across, and though the passenger may suffer from sea sickness for an hour or two, when once under the lee of Molokai he will find himself in smooth water. There is much varied scenery to look at for the next forty miles. At the western end the Island looks barren from the sea, and is so in fact, but before morning half way up the coast a very different kind of scenery cotnes into view. The mountains ascend to a height of 5,000 feet, and are scored by deep gulches, whose sides are very precipitous and cast strong shadows in the afternoon sun. The loftiest point is Mount Olopui (5,000 feet, estimated). A thin ribbon of flat land is at the base of the precipitous mountains and the voyager will probably see the spire of Kaluaaha Church and a few houses on the shore. Directly south will be seen the outlines of LANAI, a small island, devoted to the raising of sheep, while due east rise the mountains of WEST MAUI. The PAILOLO, or MOLOKAI CHANNEL, nine miles wide is next crossed. The native fishermen constantly run over this both in whale-boats and canoes. The Pailolo Channel once crossed, the Island of Maui is reached. The steamer approaches Lahaina, the first landing, generally at sunset. The tints are at this time very beautiful. Stretching to the north the land, naturally red, looks like glowing rubies. To the south are jagged mountain masses with cool, deep gorges and gray mantles of miist thinly veiling them. Along the shore and clinging to the lower foot-hills is the emerald green of the sugarcane, while the little town itself nestles in a mass of trees and cocoanuts. There is not time for a passenger to land and see anything of the place. Shore-boats meet the steamer and often bring off grapes and other fruit for sale. On leaving Lahaina the steamer runs along close to the coast in al THRO UG HA WAII. 31 most perfectly smooth water until Maalaea Bay is reached, about 8 P.M. This is one of the principal landings on MaIui, giving access to a considerable extent of the Island. Very little of the shore can be seen unless it happens to be a moonlight night when the large mass of Haleakala (10,000 feet) looms up and shows here and there a trembling light, marking the position of the scattered houses on its slope. From Maalaea Bay the Hall steers straight across the Ainauihaha, or Hawaii Channel, (twenty-six miles wide). Here the voyager is apt to get a fair tossing up, but a few hours suffice to take the steamer under the lee ef Hawaii. In the early morning she is generally running past Kawaihae Bay and a view of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualalai is obtained. Rounding the point to the south the steamer drops anchor at Kailua. This place is a private residence of the King, and a number of the houses along the shore are for his accommodation and that of his attendants. The spires of two churches show up among the trees, one Roman Catholic and one Congregational, both built some forty or fifty years ago. Behind the village rises Mount HUALALAI, its lower portions lava scored, its upper part covered with trees and verdure. The mountain side is dotted with ranch buildings and cottages. KAITLJA is one of the chief places in North Kona, and from it coffee, cattle, fruit, especially pine apples and oranges are forwarded to Honolulu. At the landing, on steamer days, there is always a large crowd of Hawaiians, who come galloping in from all directions to hear the news and to sell or ship their produce. Indeed,, steamer day" is a sort of holiday at every landing along the coast. KEAUHOtI is usually the next landing made. It is about six miles south of Kailua. The crowd that met the steamer at the latter port will have galloped overland and be ready to meet it once more. A short stay is made for landing freight, and then the Hall is off for Kealakekua Bay. This spot is not only remarkable for its scenic beauty, which is certainly great, but for its historical associations both Hawaiian and foreign, for here are laid away the bones of mighty chiefs of old, and here fell the great discoverer, Captain James Cook. The northern side of the bay is guarded by a high, frowning precipice, which, sweeping round, gradually melts into the mighty slope of MAUNA LOA. At the foot of the western end of: the precipice is a little projection of flat land forming one horn of 82 TO UJRISTS' G UIDE the entrance to the harbor. From this a road winds to the top of the cliff. It was on this spot, known as Kaawaloa, that the last scene in Cook's life was played. A monument has been erected to the memory of Cook on a piece of land donated to the British Government by the late Princess Likelike. It is a plain obelisk of concrete, standing in a small enclosure which is surrounded by chains and old cannon. The monument was put in place in 1874, the work being performed by the sailors of H. B. MI. S. Fantome. The inscription reads as follows: In memory of the great circumnavigator CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R. N., who discovered these Islands on the 18th of January, A. D. 1778, and fell near this spot on the 14th of February, A. D. 1779. This monument was erected by sone of his fellow countrymen. Passengers will have time to land and examine the monument, and can also have pointed out to them the actual rock upon which Cook fell, not far from the monument. It is a black mass of lava, almost awash with the water. Even on steamer day Kaawaloa is a desolate looking place, but on February 14th, 1779, it presented a very different sight. It was then alive with chiefs, warriors, women ahd servants. Hundreds of canoes were darting about where now you can but gather a couple of dozen or so. There was all the display of a barbaric pageantry, rude undoubtedly, but very picturesque. It has passed away completely, and only from some musty page and from odds and ends in museums can some faint picture be re-constructed. The cliffs are also most interesting. They are full of caves, each of which belonged to a family of chiefs. In these caves the dead were deposited. How to reach some of them is a problem only to be solved by the inhabitants here and the cool-headed birdnesters of the Orkney and Shetland Isles. According to statements by the old natives the depositors of the dead did not use ropes, but as the work was always done secretly at night, the statement does not go for very much. Across the 'bay, a mile from Kawaloa is Napoopoo, a pretty little village, shaded by a grove of cocoanut trees. To this the steamer usually runs over while the tourist is examiining Kaawa THRO UGH HA WAI I. a8 loa. Looking southward a good view of the coast is obtained and of the land stretching upward in a gentle slope to the clouds. The coast is indented with numerous little bays, and at each such opening there is a grove of cocoanuts, a village and very likely a few canoes looking out for fish. The lower country near the coast is one mass of black lava, here and there disintegrated enough to support a scanty vegetation, but from a couple to three miles from the shore a dense forest commences, which stretches in an unbroken band around the mountain. Small villages and isolated houses appear as specks in the prevailing green. KAU AND THE VOLCANO. After leaving Kealakekua, the landing of HOOKENA and HooPUtLOA are touched at. The next stopping place is HONUAPO in Kau, Running from Hoopuloa to Honuapo, the ends of the lava flows of 1887 and of 1868 are passed, and, if daylight lasts, some idea of the manner in which these rivers of stone have been formed, can be gathered with the aid of a good glass. The southernmost point of Hawaii, (Ka Lae,) and Honuapo is reached in about three hours. Here only mails are landed and the steamer at once proceeds to Punaluu, the terminus of the sea route. This is usually reached at 6.00 P.M. The passengers are landed in boats and will proceed to Captain Lee's hotel, where they will find themselves comfortably taken care of. The hotel is clean, the table good, and the proprietor and his wife will be found very obliging and ready to afford any information required. Early in the morning the start for the Volcano is made. The first five miles are done by rail to PAHALA. The Hawaiian Agricultural Company have a large plantation here and a very fine mill. The fields extend far up the hill side and the constant moving of wagons, riders and gangs of men makes a busy scene. APPROACH TO THE VOLCANO. At Pahala a coach will be found ready to convey the tourist to the Volcano. This travels over a road recently made by the energy of Captain Lee. At first the drive is over a pleasant grassy country with the tree clad slopes of Mauna Loa lying to the left, while to the right glimpses of the sea and the lower land are occasionally caught. The Half.way House is reached in about three hours. Here a lunch is always ready for the travelers, and 3 8D TO UTISTS' GUIDE a;short rest is given to the animals. The air becomes cooler as the travellers advance, and a pleasant ride of seven hours through a country abounding in pretty scenery brings the party to the VOLCANO HOUSE. The smoke which forever overhangs this wonder of nature will have been pointed out by the guide, miles before the crater is reached. About a mile from the Volcano House? a view into the crater is obtained. By daylight the sight is by no means so striking as at night, but enough can be seen to excite wonder in the beholder. The Volcano House, under charge of Mr. and Mrs. Maby will be found comfortable. Of course at such a distance from all stores and means of supply, the traveller must not expect to find the Parker House or Delmonico's overhanging the crater of KILAUEA. The Volcanp House is a one-story building and has accommodation for twenty guests, though on a pinch some thirty-five or so may be accommodated. There is a comfortable dining room and a parlor furnished with easy chairs, a couch or two, tables and fine fire place, a very necessary adjunct in such a cold climate. The Volcano registers, which are kept in this room afford a fund of amusement. They contain autographs and marks frem many eminent pens and the nonsense of a generation or so of those who are by no means eminent. There is also a small library. The table is plain, but good, and a very fair variety is offered to the visitor. DOWN INTO THE CRATER. The descent into the crater should be made about 4 P.M., which will enable the tourist to reach the scene of main activity a little before dark. The path-way into the crater is of a fairly gentle grade, and is a mile in length, accomplishing in that distance a drop of nearly 500 feet. This is usually performed on foot, though horses or mules can be supplied to those who wish to reserve their force for the inevitable walk across the crater floor. This has to be done on foot and is somewhat rough, though there is a good path over the crinkled surface. Guides accompany the party and carry lanterns and canteens of water. Each sight-seer is provided with a stick and a lantern. Strong but easy shoes should be worn, above all things let new shoes be carefully avoided. THRO UGH HA WAII. as A MOST GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION. The following account of the crater is extracted from Miss Isabella Bird's book, and is probably the best descriptive effort ever made. But it is attempting to describe the indescribable. She says:," We think of a volcano as a cone. This Kilauea is a different thing. The abyss, which really is at a height of about 4000 feet on the flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a great pit on a rolling plain. But such a pit! It is nine miles in circumference, and its lowest area, which not long ago fell about 360 feet, just as ice on a pond falls when the water below it is withdrawn, covers six square miles. The depth of the crater varies from 800 to 1100 feet in different years, according as the molten sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of volcanic activity are present more or less throughout its whole depth, and for some distance round its margin, in the form of steam cracks, jets of sulphurous vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of acicular crystals of sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly rent and shaken by earthquakes. Grand eruptions occur at intervals with circumstances of indescribable terror and dignity, hut Kilauea does not limit its activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena through all known time in a lake or lakes in the southern part of the crater three miles from this side.,,This lake, the Hale-mau-mau, or House of Everlasting Fire of the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele, is approachable with safety except during an eruption. The spectacle, however, varies almost daily, and at times the level of the lava in the pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are evolved in such enormous quantities, that travelers are unable to see anything. There had been no news from it for a week, and as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor hanging round its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. * * * "t The first descent down the terminal wall of the crater is very precipitous, but it and the slope which extends to the second descent are thickly covered with ohias, ohelos (a species of whortleberry), sadlerias, polopodiums, silver grass, and a great variety of bulbous plants, many of which bore clusters of berries of a brilliant turquoise blue. The " beyond " looked terrible. I could not help clinging to these vestiges of the kindlier mood of nature 36 TO URIS'TS' G UIDE in which she sought to cover the horrors she had wrought. The next descent is over rough blocks and ridges of broken lava, and appears to form part of a break which extends irregularly round the whole crater, and which probably marks a tremendous subsidence of its floor. Here the last apparent vegetation was left behind, and the familiar earth. We were in a new Plutonic region of blackness and awful desolation, the accustomed sights and sounds of nature all gone. Terraces, cliffs, lakes, ridges, rivers, mountain sides, whirlpools, chasms of lava surrounded us, solid, black, and shining, as if vitrified, or an ashen gray, stained yellow with sulphur here and there, or white with alum. The lava was fissured and upheaved everywhere by earthquakes, hot underneath, and emitting a hot breath. " After more than an hour of very difficult climbing we reached the lowest level of the crater, pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of a sea at rest, but on crossing it we found it to be an expanse of waves and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, with huge cracks filled up with black irridescent rolls of lava, only a few weeks old. Parts of it are very rough and ridgy, jammed together like field ice, or compacted by rolls of lava which may have swelled up from beneath, but the largest part of the area presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy formation of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These are riven by deep cracks which emit hot sulphurous vapors. Strange to say, in one of these, deep down in that black and awful region, three slender metamorphosed ferns were growing, three exquisite forms, the fragile heralds of the great forest of vegetation, which probably in coming years will clothe this pit in beauty. Truly they seemed to speak of the love of God. On our right there was a precipitous ledge, and a recent flow of lava had poured over it, cooling as it fell into columnar shapes as symmetrical as those of Staffa. It took us a full hour to cross this deep depression, and as long to master a steep hot ascent of about 400 feet, formed by a recent lava-flow from Hale-mau-mau into the basin. This lava hill is an extraordinary sight-a flood of molten stone, solidifying as it ran down the declivity, forming arrested waves, streams, eddies, gigantic convolutions, forms of snakes, stems of trees, gnarled roots, crooked water pipes, all involved and contorted on a gigantic scale, a wilderness of force and dread. Over one steeper THRO UGH HA WAII. 87 place the lava had run in a fiery cascade about 100 feet wide. Some had reached the ground, some had been arrested midway, but all had taken the aspect of stems of trees. In some of the crevices I picked up a quantity of very curious filamentose lava, known as ", Pele's hair." It resembles coarse, spun glass, and is of a greenish or yellowish-brown color. In many places the whole surface of the lava is covered with this substance seen through a glazed medium. During eruptions, when fire fountains play to a great height, and drops of lava are thrown in all directions, the wind spins them out in clear green or yellow threads two or three feet long, which catch and adhere to projecting points. ( As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as more porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain hissed as it fell upon It. The crust became increasingly insecure, and necessitated our walking in single file with the guide in front, to test the security of the footing. I fell through several times, and always into holes full of sulphurous steam, so malignantly acid that my strong dog-skin gloves were burned through as I raised myself on my hands. * * * AT THE ABODE OF PELE. "Suddenly, just above, and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in air, and springing forward we stood on the brink of Hale-mau-mau, which was about thirty-five feet below us. I think we all screamed, I know we all wept, but we were all speechless, for a new glory and terror had been added to the earth. It is the most unutterable of wonderful things. The words of common speech are quite useless. It is unimaginable, indescribable, a sight to remember forever, a sight, which at once took possession of every faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether out of the range of ordinary life. Here was the real "t bottomless pit " — the fire which is not quenched " —t the place of hell" —cthe lake which burneth with fire and brimstone "-the "e everlasting burnings "-the fiery sea whose waves are never weary. There were groanings, rumblings, and detonations, rushings, hissings, and splashings, and the crashing sound of breakers on the coast, but it was the surging of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. But what can I write! Such words as jets, fountains, waves, spray, convey some idea of order and regularity, but here there was none. The inner lake, while we stood 88 3TO URISTS' G UIDE there, formed a sort of crater within itself, the whole lava sea rose about three feet, a blowing cone about eight feet high was formed, it was never the same two minutes together. And what we saw had no existence a month ago, and probably will be changed in every essential feature a month hence. ", What we did see was one irregularly-shaped lake, possibly 500 feet wide at its narrowest part and nearly half-a-mile at its broadest, almost divided into two by a low bank of lava, which extended nearly across it where it was narrowest, and which was raised visibly before our eyes. The sides of the nearest part of the lake were absolutely perpendicular, but nowhere more than forty feet high; but opposite to us on the far side of the larger lake they were bold and craggy, and probably not less than 150 feet high. On one side there was an expanse entirely occupied with blowing cones, and jets of steam or vapor. The lake has been known to sink 400 feet, and a month ago it overflowed its banks. The prominent object was fire in motion, but the surface of the double lake was continually skinning over for a second or two with a cooled crust of a lustrous grey-white, like frosted silver, broken by jagged cracks of a bright rose color. The movement was nearly always from the sides to the centre, but the movement of the centre itself appeared independent and always took a southerly direction. Before each outburst of agitation there was much hissing and a throbbing internal roaring, as of imprisoned gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power on earth could bind it, then playful and sportive, then for a second languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh force. On our arrival eleven fire fountains were playing joyously round the lakes, and sometimes the six of the nearer lake ran together in the centre to go wallowing down in one vortex, from which they reappeared bulging upwards, till they formed a huge cone thirty feet high, which plunged downwards in a whirlpool Only to reappear in exactly the previous number of fountains in different parts of the lake, high leaping, raging, flinging themselves upward. Sometimes the whole lake, abandoning its usual centripetal motion, as if impelled southwards, took the form of mighty waves, and surging heavily against the partial barrier with a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore, covered it, and threw itself over it in clots of living fire. It was all confusion, commotion, force, terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even THI RO UGIH HA WAII. 89 beauty. And the color! " Eye hath not seen" it! Molten metal has not that crimson gleam, nor blood that living light! Had I not seen this, I should never have known that such a color was possible. THREE HOURS OVER THE BOILING LAKE. "cThe crust perpetually wrinkled, folded over, and cracked, and great pieces were drawn downwards to be again thrown up on the crests of waves. The eleven fountains of gory fire played the greater part of the time, dancing round the lake with a strength of joyousness which was absolute beauty. Indeed after the first half hour of terror had gone by, the beauty of these jets made a profound impression upon me, and the sight of them muss always remain one of the most fascinating recollections of my life. During three hours, the bank of lava which almost divided the lakes rose considerably, owing to the cooling of the spray as it dashed over it, and a cavern of considerable size was formed within it, the roof of which was hung with fiery stalactites, more than a foot long. Nearly the whole time the surges of the further lake taking a southerly direction, broke With a tremendous noise on the bold craggy cliffs which are its southern boundary, throwing their gory spray to a height of fully forty feet. At times an overhanging crag fell in, creating a vast splash of fire and increased commotion. " Almost close below us there was an intermittent jet of lava, which kept cooling round what was possibly a blow-hole forming a cone with an open top, which when we first saw it was about six feet high on its highest side, and about as many in diameter. Up this cone or chimney, heavy jets of lava were thrown every second or two, and cooling as they fell over its edge, raised it rapidly before our eyes. Its fiery interior, and the singular sound with which the lava was vomited up, were very awful. There was no smoke rising from the lake, only a faint blue vapor which the wind carried in the opposite direction. The heat was excessive. We were obliged to stand the whole time, and the soles of our boots were burned, and my ear and one side of my face were blistered. Although there was no smoke from the lake itself, there was an awful region to the westward, of smoke, and sound, and rolling clouds of steam and vapor whose phenomena it was not safe to investigate, where the blowing cones are, whose firet last night appeared stationary. We were able to stand quite nea AA TO URIS'TSI G UIDE the margin, and look down into the lake, as you look into the sea from the deck of a ship, the only risk being that the fractured ledge might give way. "t Before we came away, a new impulse seized the lava. The fire was thrown to a great height; the fountains and jets all wallowed together; new ones appeared, and danced joyously round the margin, then converging towards the centre they merged into one glowing mass, which upheaved itself pyramidally and disappeared with a vast plunge. Then innumerable billows of fire dashed themselves into the air, crashing and lashing, and the lake dividing itself recoiled on either side, then hurling its fires together and rising as if by upheaval from below, it surged over the temporary rim which it had formed, passing down in a slow majestic flow, leaving the central surface swaying and dashing in fruitless agony as if sent on some errand it failed to accomplish. " Farewell, I fear forever, to the glorious Hale-mau-mau, the grandest type of force that the earth holds! ", Break, break, break," on through the coming years. " No more by thee my steps shall be, No more again forever! ANOTHER DESCRIPTION OF THE CRATER. After Miss Bird saw the crater, both Halemaumau and South Lake disappeared and a new one, named Dana Lake, after the celebrated professor, was formed. A visitor, writing under date of October, 1888, finds much of the above changed; he says: " We saw the hole where Halemaumau had been, a black lavacoated abyss, or rather basin. The ruins of the famous t Little Beggar" were also looked at. When I was here in 1885, we had quite a climb to reach him, now he is thirty or forty feet below where I was standing and instead of spluttering, puffing and blowing he was as silent as a tombstone. He had lived his little life and had gone to his account. The history of the crater may chronicle his name, but people will hardly be able to realize what a fierce, fussy little blow-hole he was. " Advancing further we began to see the great activity going on. The lava became hot under foot and masses of smoke would sweep past across the cone in front of us. To the left, like a glowing eye, now flashing out, now obscured by smoke, was a far distant blow-hole. To the right, within a hundred yards or so / | / LMAP OF HILEA fealuu HAW AII (Csiuku /, eisi "4 ^ L fHlonuapo; CompQled by WA. A. W. - I F PROM GOVT. SURVEY MAPS. MILES 0 6 10 b16 2j Kaalualu 1887. i6~20' 0 15O6V ISLAND OF HAWAIt, f I: t 4,' 5 I. I ' il $ ill i I. I -II. ' i't I -- f. f., 2 ZEALANDIA, ALAMEDA, DIRECT MAIL SERVICE BETWEEN MARIPOSA AUSTRALIA, a3iDo8Xo +~N9. ~ San Franciso Honoulu, Auckland and Sydney ttTN 30 NOlcennic Stentmshi onmpany'sSteamer MripoW~~sa, 3,15 Toau Commawnlnr, if. A. Hlayward. X:.>,,m,,e,,,.,,,j:Cw,,g,.,g,,,,,,,,... -!'''' ''''~~~~~ai~~~i~li8iai~;I-: ":'"~':"ie:~~:~i~:-r~~~~ Oceairiii Steafrri ~hip cornpariy, W. IRWIN & CO, GENRAL AGENTS J SPRECKELS & BROTHERS, ENERAL AN TS HO'R3 E NOLULU,. H.......L.. 327...... M ARKET ST................SAN F. A L i i" i'P,, - Y,:.:' i r m g ' ',. i; - SI " i-,,i~f i r i i i -;iiii~ii E ~ t -;- ) i'' ~i i i ~~ii: i' —i- ~i- i i _,,, i ',' _ 3g i i- i,_.'i i i i?- "; ~i..Y i Si:,i,, '.. i:~;i-, i _, ii "i ~?~('cei 2 ' j99" _ '-=XN i' ii iK " iW-" ' ':l "'f-4' 3;::~:-,:;* ' g! tr ~:~;;:-=ri-ii ii iii:::; —; -It ~I ~ _ fi ~~~~~~~~;~:lr, —~~;i:-:i~~ii."~i~:~i~i~i ~i~i~-~i' ~ ~ ~~;;LI::~/:~~i~j~!!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:;:~~=~~-" Veeanie stea~~~mS-i~l~~a '>ozmpallyms Stea3[n~~~er "Maripo~~a.,Si 3ali10:T:ons. C m mander, I:: ~ L~t: -1::. AI. Xavutard.^I ss~~?;~i~8:~ ia:1~::~:::~rf 0 f f i? OC@8EL1~ S e A~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~t~~~~~~~t D C O~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~iaL L Y ~ t~I.j1~:-~9 W. G. iFR W N & C O! G NER AL A GE TB,. J. )% E3FF T E C IK E DZ l~FROT5O111 RST (W ENE AL A GENTS HONOIULIJ HS~~~i'-~e~i:-;l~~~~:,i-:i.iii r:iz~ ~ ~ ~ p~"-~~l;~:~.::I:i;: ilaAi~ ~i~~~Ii~~iii~~.: 327 MAKT T,-~:i::-Bi I:~1AN FRANCTSX ii~~i~iiii-, GALW c~HIil~~~ WM. G. ILRWIN & C3MPANY, (L1MI1ED)Sugar Factors and Commission Agents, HONOLULU, j. i. WILUAM G. IRWIN, OLTAU SPRECKELS, WALTER M. GIPFARD, - THBO.. PORTER, - I Ptesident and Manager. - Vice-President, Secretary and Treasureri.- II.. Auditor. -- AGlWTS TOR Ttg -- OCEANIC STEAMSHIP COMPANY, OF SAVA FPRAfNCSCO, CALA. * 0, t~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 0 ^ (238)..._ CLAUS SPRECKEL8, WM. G. IRWIN. CLAUS SPRECKELS & CO,, Honolultu, I-awaiiat Islands. DRAW EXCHANGE - ON THl -- Irirwcipal Pcarts of the World, -AND, TRANSACT AGENERAL BANKING BUSINESS..~ ~~~PC~~*U CI~-~ LLI —~I ~, ---~ - ---— 4 (24) HONOLULU, H. I. R. A. VAN MIDDELDYK, MANAGER. T HIS HOTEL is one of the leading architectural structures of Honolulu. The grounds comprise an entire square of aboutfour acres, fronting on Hotel Street. This large area ' affords ample room for lawns and beautiful walks, which are laid out most artistically with flowering plants and tropical trees. There are twelve pretty cottages within this charming enclosure, all under the Hotel management. The Hotel and Cottages afford accommodations for two hundred guests. The basement of the Hotel contains the FINESST' BILLIARD HIALL IN THE CITY. The majn entrance is on the ground floor, to the right of which are elegantly furnished parlors. A broad passage-way leads from the main hall to the dining room. These apartments open (.on broad verandc&s, where a magnificent view of the N3uuanu Mountains may be seen through the wealth of tropical foliage that surrounds the balconies. The fare dispensed is the best the market affords, and is first-class in all respects. The Hotel and Cottages are supplied with pure water from an artesian well on the premises. The entire building and all the Cottages are lighted with electric lights. The clerk's office is furnished with telephone, by which communication is had with the leading business firms of the city. Th'e'city tram cars pass the premises every half hour. Every, effort has been made and money lavishly expended, under the present able management, to make this establishment THE MODEL FAMIL Y HOTEL, a reputation it now enjoys and most justly merits. 9atez, including Board, 2.6 o to $ perp Da, ACCORDING TO SIZE AND LOCATION OF ROOM. Special Rates for M/onrthly Boarders or Famrilies. THRO UGH HA WAII. 41 was another, a great yawning throat, glowing fiercely with intense heat. ' Puffing like a porpoise,' said my companion, but to my mind it sounded like the throbbing of all the machinery in the world. Whatever it was like it was a heart-thrilling sound tbat, u:eme rushing forth every ten seconds or so, while brilliant greet 'ames darted from the very midst of the red glow. A very angry blow-hole this, snorting and fuming and anxious to do a mischief if it could. "t But the great sight was yet to come. The lava floor became still hotter under foot and ugly looking cracks appeared here and there, bridged by very inadequate looking scraps of stone. Black, shining stuff this was that crackled under your feet as you trod. It had only poured down the crater side in a molten mass a fortnight ago. Up, up we stumbled, when suddenly the burning lake burst upon our sight. I saw Halenaumau in 1885, and was told I had been particularly fortunate in seeing it so active, but I never saw anything like this new Dana Lake. As change after change came on, one could only draw one's breath and open one's eyes wider with wonder. The pit was large. How large? Some people can measure these things, I cannot any more than I can measure the fury of the storm or the diapason note of an organ. The one may be going 1000 miles an hour and the other thirtytwo vibrations a second, but that is no matter to me. The farther recesses of the pit walls were veiled with clouds of smoke and vapor, which ever and anon seemed to suggest untold vistas of glowing depths, dim, mysterious homes of unspeakable fires. Who can say how large it was? The mysterious is always appalling, and those mist-obscured, dull, glowing furnaces of the opposite cliffs, flashing for a moment into brilliance and then snatched away by the dull gray pall that kept endlessly sweeping by, were very gruesome. "The portion of the lake under our feet was brilliantly lighted from the mouths of three gigantic furnaces. White, blinding, molten light was bubbling and tossing about in their interior. The surface of the lake was a bluish-black when we arrived, and across its surface rays of light would flash. To the right of us rose cliffs of ashes, to the left a steep slope seemed to fade into endless night. At our feet was the rim of the lake, sloping downwards and outwards, the lower part being lower than the surface of the burning lava. 42 TO URISTS' G UIDE MADAME PELE AS A JOVIAL ACTOR. "'One of the furnaces was just under this rim, we could see the blaze of light projected over the surface, we could see the flying streams of glowing, red-hot stones, but we could not see into its throat. Opposite, however, were two into whose interior we could gaze-vast caves of white-hot light, and gas, and semimolten rock. Each furnace took a turn at scenic display, tossing up waves of fire, vomiting forth a molten, yellow, gleaming mass upon the black froth and shooting into the air columns of liquid rock, which fell in sparkling spray and scattered scintillating gems for yards around. The most striking, perhaps, was the furnace at our feet, the fountain of light would spring high above the rim, say twenty feet or so, and then the fiery hail fell upon the dark sides of the abyss, gemming it with flashing jewels of every color of the rainbow. Then there would be a swish of sound and a stream of white-hot lava would appear at the dark edge, and run over the rugged and uncouth side like a ribbon of gold. Last scene of all was the break up of the whole lake. A thin red streak appeared, it widened, the color, faint at first became more rosy, other streaks crossed the blue-black surface. The black became a net work of streaks. The black was swept away in an instant, the rosy lines flashed out of sight and the surface became one sheet of white-hot lava. The furnaces all roared in concert, masses of light and liquid fire kept pouring forth in torrents from their throats. The centre of this vast cauldron heaved and bubbled, there was one fire fountain in the centre, there were three, there were a dozen, twenty, nay, countless tossing columns of fire, each leaping in a wild sabbatic joy. Talk of Pele being an evil genius, she is a merry sprite. I looked up at the sky. There was the moon overhead looking so cold and calm; so evenly sailing on her appointed course through space. She was the emblem of heavenly peace, as this seething caldron at my feet was the fit emblem of the stormy passions of the world. I looked again at the lake. The whole wild scene was over. The fountains of flame had sunk to rest, the surface of the lake was once more shimmering black, and the furnaces were alone keeping their angry watch, ready at a moment's notice to join once more in that unholy sabbath. They did again and are now." And so the accounts go. No two are alike. No two persons THRO UGH HA WAII. 43 see this grand phenomenon with its ever-changing phenomena in the same way. The walk back from the volcanic fires is always wearisome, and the two-mile tramp down seems ten miles back. The mind and the eye have been unduly excited and the reaction sets in. It is with great satisfaction that the crater cliffs are surmounted and the hospitable door entered. There it is, supper and bed and everyone sleeps well and into the next morning. But breakfast is a late meal. The return trip from the Volcano by the steamer is exactly similar to the trip to the volcano, and the same ports are stopped at. ROUTE II. TO THE VOLCANO. Wilder's Steamship Company's steamer Kinau, 975 tons, 550 horse power. Leaves Honolulu every ten days on Tuesdays and Fridays alternately; sailing hour, 2 P.M. The tourist will have an opportunity of seeing the coast of Oahu and of Molokai, and will reach Lahaina about 9 or 10 o'clock P.M. MAALAEA BAY is next touched at, the passage being thus far similar to Route 1. After leaving Maalaea Bay, the Kinau touches at MAKENA, a landing in the southern part of MAUI. At this place considerable quantities of corn, Irish potatoes and pigs are shipped. These are raised on the slopes of Haleakala, in what is known as the kula. Higher up, at a distance of three miles, is the celebrated Ulupalakua estate, one of the pioneer sugar plantations on the islands. Here, some twenty years ago, the late Captain Makee used to dispense an almost regal hospitality. He beautified the estate with extensive plantations of trees, which have given the land a park-like appearance. The sugar plantation was given up some years ago, and Captain Makee sleeps his last sleep in the mausoleum on the mountain side. The place is now a cattle ranch owned by the Hon. J. 1. Dowsett. THE START. Of this part of the voyage a writer says: it We left Honolulu for Hilo at 2 P.M. on 26th March in the steamer Kinau with a southerly wind blowing on our starboard beam for several miles, and until we were well out in the Molokai channel, which intervenes between the islands of Oahu and Molokai. The wind here gradually hauled to the east, and a regular N.E. trade wind con 44.2r URISSTSI GL UIDE tinued the balance of the voyage. At 5:30 P.M. we pass a lighthouse on the N.W. point of Molokai, and shoals of flying-fish are darting about in all directions. Two whales, of the humpback species, are also playing about our steamer and causing amusement to the passengers. Around the lighthouse we have just passed, a heavy surf dashes upon the rocks; but farther along the western shore there is scarcely a ripple on the beach which stretches unbroken as far as we can see. We reach the old and historical town of Lahaina, on the Island of Maui, about 9 P.M., and Maalaea Bay on the same island about midnight. Both these seaports are stopping places for the steamers of Wilder's Steamship Co., and also the port of Makena, which we reach about an hour later. The Island of Lanai looms to the westward at dawn, when we find ourselves in the Hawaii channel with several coasting schooners in sight. The immense mountain of Haleakala is now seen in its giant proportions of 10,000 feet elevation. On the top of this mountain is the largest extinct crater in the world -eight miles in diameter, and nearly thirty miles in circumference including its sinuosities. The depth is estimated at 2000 feet, with crags and precipices all around; and the great pit is shaped like a hole from which a huge carbuncle had just been drawn. The sides have a peculiar vegetation, and the floor of the crater is covered with black volcanic debris, especially around four or five cones that bear evidence of having vomited fire at a comparatively recent age of our planet. The ascent of the mountain to this wonder of nature is easy and gradual over a good and safe mountain track." Early on the following morning the voyager will awake to find himself about half-way over the Hawaii or Alanuihaha Channel. Hawaii will be looming up ahead while the full outline of Haleakala will be visible astern. The steamer usually reaches Mahukona about 8 or 9 o'clock A.M. Approaching the landing, the Kohala mountains are seen, and with a glass the ranch buildings at Puuhue and Kahua can be made out, perched aloft. Mahukona itself is not an inviting spot; it is, however, the landing for the important sugar district of North Kohala and the terminus of the Kohala Railroad. A large warehouse has been erected for the storage of sugar, besides a store, engine house, Chinese restaurant and manager's house, etc. During the grinding season, from two to three ships will be found lying at anchor. TH.RO UGH HA TVAI I. 4:5 The railroad, which was constructed in 1882, runs twenty miles or almost to the eastern end of the district. An opportunity for taking a run on this railroad and viewing Kohala is always given when the Kinau returns. On the up trip there is not sufficient time, for, as soon as the freight is landed, an opera. tion of some three hours, the vessel proceeds to Kawaihae. The run is but ten miles, under the lee of the land and is very pleasant. KAWAIHAE HARBOR AND VILLAGE. KAWAIHAE HARBOR is a lovely spot. The great mountain masses of Hawaii are visible from the steamer's deck. Towards sunset the outlines are perfectly clear. To the left or north, looking shoreward, are the mountains of Kohala, with gently sloping sides and jagged peaks at the summit. In front, or slightly southeast is Mauna Kea, lifting its head above the clouds and having its crest flooded with ruby light. To the extreme south is Hualalai, while between these two rises the gentle slope of Mauna Loa, looking at this distance lower than Hualalai, though it is a good 5000 feet higher. KAWAIHAE itself is a small village, which thirty years ago was of some importance, and did a considerable trade with the whalers that then visited it. It has dwindled very much since then. At present it is the landing for the cattle ranches of South Kohala South of the hamlet is a large heiau or temple, built by Kamehameha I. It is in very fair preservation. From Kawaihae a telephone wire runs across to Hilo, and news of the arrival of the Kinau is at once sent through South Kohala and Hamakua to that town. From Kawaihae the steamer goes north again, doubles Upolu point, the most northerly cape of Hawaii and then makes a course directly southeast for Hilo. When the run is made along here by daylight the passenger has a number of interesting views of the coast. First there are the slopes of Kohala, the lower parts covered with cane fields, the upper clothed with forest and stretching to the clouds. The mills and residences can be clearly distinguished. To these succeed a line of lofty cliffs which are pierced by the valleys of Pololu, Honokane, Waimanu and Waipio. The latter are very grand, the cliffs being from 2000 to 2500 feet high. A special visit should be devoted to these picturesque valleys. 46 TO URIISTS' GUIDE KOHALA FROM THE SEA. "The beauty and variety of the scenery here baffle adequate description. Every spot is clad in verdure of the greenest hues — the shades blending in places and contrasting in others. These bright green patches that extend from the shore to the edge of the distant woods, are the fields of sugarcane; the darker stretches are grazing pastures, and the darkest areas are tropical forests of koa, ohia and other native trees. That tall smokestack rises from a sugar-mill, of which there are a number around this coast. Large buildings these are, and at present their occupants are in full work grinding cane. Nearer the shore and upon that estuary are rice fields cultivated by Chinamen; but the coast line here is bold and rocky, and the landings are neither numerous nor all that could be desired. Yet schooners are anchored near the shore; and, at times, we see canoes under sail, all making for or leaving some of these rocky landings. The very high mountains of the interior are at present veiled in cloud; and the scenery upon which we now gaze, slopes gently from the sea to a comparatively low range of foothills about ten miles distant. All this area is in the district of North Kohala; but soon we pass to grander scenes-frowning clifls of great height overlooking the sea, deep and steep gorge-shaped valleys, and watarfalls tumbling over the precipices into the ocean. The southern terminus of the railway from Mahukona, previously noticed, ends before this grand and wild scenery is approached; and which offers insurmountable obstacles to roads of all kinds, owing to its steep and rugged character. The large valleys of Waipio and Waimanu are visible from the steamer, where they open from the shore; and, for natural beauty and majectic grandeur of outline, few valleys in the world can equal them. Waimanu Valley is famed as being the birth-place of the Hawaiian conqueror, King Kamehameha I., who brought all the islands of the group under his subjection, and was the first King of the Hawaiian Islands as a united kingdom." Then follows the district of HAMAKUA and again come sugar plantations, mills and scattered houses. For nearly sixty miles there is one continuous ribbon of cane and a succession of mills until Hilo is reached. The steamer stops at Laupahoehoe, where from the deck a good view of the road up the cliff can be obtained, and some idea formed of what the rider has to surmount when THRO UGH HA WAII. 47 going round the island. The Hilo coast, which commences four miles before reaching Laupahoehoe, is abrupt and pierced by numerous gulches, large and small. There are said to be sixty-two from Laupahoehoe to Hilo. Down each of these winds a stream, ending, in most cases, in a waterfall that leaps into the sea. These slender silver threads seem to be countless. The wind takes them up, toys with them, scatters them into gossamer veils and the sun paints them with rainbow tints. HILO BAY AND VILLAGE. Hilo is a poem. Its waters are usually calm. The cliffs and bluffs which have been the chief features of the scenery up to this point gradually become lower and lower, until at HILO they sink to insignificance, and then disappear altogether, leaving a long sweeping line of beach upon which the surf breaks forever. The town proper occupies the west side of the boy and appears buried in foliage. Cocoanut palms, bamboos and other tropical vegetation fill its gardens. The spires of some of the churches are seen, and here and there a house peeps out, while close to the beach there is a long row of stores and a street in front. Away to the east is the Waiakea River, near the mouth of which is quite a little village. Cocoanut Island lies directly north of Waiakea and marks the eastern boundary of the bay. This island is separated from the main land by a narrow channel. Westward and northward stretch the slopes of Mauna Kea, its snow-clad crest shows clearly morning and evening. South-west are the slopes of Mauna Loa. These slopes show varied tints-the emerald hue of the cane, the darker green of the ohia forest, the grays of the rocks and the blue and purple of distant hills and hollows. From the mountain during the night, comes the cool land breeze, in the winter right off the snow. This makes the climate of Hilo particularly cool and refreshing after sunset. During the day there is the sea breeze. There is always plenty of rain, 150 inches is about the average yearly rainfall. Hilo, as a town, stands second to Honolulu, though it is a somewhat distant second. It is extremely picturesque, however, and makes up in extent of back country what it lacks in city size. There are several good stores in the town, at which anything from a paper of tacks to a satin dress can be obtained. Direct communication with the Pacific Coast is by sailing vessels about once a month, and the steamer from Hono 48 TO URISTS' GUIDE lulu comes regularly every ten days. The principal streets are Front street, which runs parallel to the beach and on which are the principal business houses and Wainuenue street, at the lower part of which are stores and small shops and at the upper part private residences. There are three Congregational Churches, two native and one foreign, and one Roman Catholic Cathedral. The schools consist of a Government English School, a Government Select School, a Roman Catholic School for boys and one for girls, and a Boarding School for Hawaiian boys conducted on the industrial plan. The Post-Office and Custom House are close to the landing. The Sherift"s Office, Police Court, etc., are in a commodious two story building on Waianuenue street a little above the Roman Catholic Cathedral. The Central Telephone Office and Circulating Library are on the same street. There are some pretty private residences and the gardens are very fine. The society is pleasant and easily accessible to any one properly introduced. There are some six or seven finely macadamized streets, each of which is flanked by rills of sparkling water from springs on the higher grades behind the town. Front street, the thoroughfare parallel with and nearest the bay, is lined with business houses and stores on both sides, and at its northern end is a terrace of emporiums whose fronts are open to the harbor. Waianuenue street runs at right angles with Front street, and at its lower end stores and business houses are numerous, and for some distance continuous. The private dwellings are embowered in arboreal shade, and surrounded with gardens; while a large number of the buildings have quite an ornamental and genteel appearance. In churches the Congregationalists and Catholics are well represented. Regarding public buildings the Court House is the largest; and the Post Office, to which is Joined the Custom House, seems to be sufficient for present wants. There are also a Central Telephone Office and a Public Library, which contains several thousand volumes. Schools are plentiful, and an industrial institution for boys is especially worthy of mention, as several trades, such as printing, carpenter work, etc., are here taught to the native youth. The people of Hilo are very hospitable' to strangers, to whom every attention and kindness is shown during the period of their visit. ~- I - ~a:~ Ma.~a i %~ ~Ell s~~~~~~~~H~j< ~~P;.~,IEE:~~~~~C~~~L~~r;'i" ~ ~ *"i,:" 3;~~ 3i~~sri ~~E i";l~"'. as;vs~:n;, 9~~i~ x..;P~~~~~~.E~ps~ - ~ ~ P~~F ~~.~_ '0j'XC_ P.33gW.33,M~~~g93,m>,'<,W~~ag31W~s~~i' _-g~gga'gs W " W t'S W ";.3S' 3 v r ~ is v: ~i l ~~~~~~~~~~~~~:~~~~ ' i 3 3 >~i ~:~,,; 3t - hX wrT A1t2MTOyrh A!.r XSC~3g:L~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~85~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 4X31.vW2W3 11WU T'tZ.3 THRO UGH HA WAII. 49 COCOANUT ISLAND. On the eastern side of the bay, distant a mile or so from the wharf, is an island a few acres in extent, with the above name, received from the cluster of trees on it. It is a charming spot, often resorted to on festive occasions for picnics, where old and young gather to spend an afternoon under the cool shade of its lofty trees, fanned by the sea breezes, which form so delightful a feature of Hilo and its vicinity. Fortunate indeed is the tourist who happens to witness one of these unique and cosmopolitan gatherings of people from every quarter of the globe. It will form a red-letter day in his checkered life, never to be forgotten, not so much because of its being " The loveliest ait that mortal eye e'er rested onl," as for the beautiful panoramic mountain view which it affords. In front lies the placid bay of Hilo, and on the shore beyond is the village, almost hidden with luxuriant tropical foliage, while it the background are seen the two loftiest mountains in this ocean-at the right, grand old snow-capped Mauna Kea (the white mountain), and at the left, the still more majestic Mauna Loa (the long mountain), its summtit volcano often wreathed with a halo of smoke. It was here, with the inspiration of such a scene, and under the shade of the tall coco trees, that the picture of Hilo which adorns the opposite page was conceived and sketched by the writer, and afterwards copied and finished with artistic skill by Hawaii's young artist, Mr. D. Howard Hitchcock, on whom the mantle of the lamented Tavernier seems to have unconsciously fallen. It is a panoramic sketch which every tourist will recognize and prize as a faithful bird's-eye view of the most charming scene in this earthly paradise. OUTSIDE OF THE TOWN, One of the greatest attractions is Rainbow Falls, on the Wailuku River, about two miles from Hilo Post Office. This fall has a descent of about seventy feet, and tumbles over a caved-in precipice to a large and deep basin below; and where the fall strikes the pool it is about twelve feet from the rock. In addition to the fall, which embodies the whole volume of the Wailuku -River, there are jets of water spouting from the sides of the precipice at more or less elevation and the whole surroundings are covered with wild vines, gigantic ferns, ti plants, and other peculiar 4 5.Al TO URISTS' G UIiTD-9 growths. Altogether this scene is very romantic, and has a weird solitude and wild appearance that make the Rainbow Falls well worth a visit. There are other falls on the same river farther up and also a twin fali farther down, which tumbles into a deep estuary, in two distinct parallel leaps, from about fifty feet in height. This lower cataract can be seen from Hilo bridge over the Wailuku. The surroundings of Hilo have many other attractive resorts, and among these are the extinct craters of Halai, several waterfalls more or less distant, and the beautiful Waiakea River, with its handsome bridge and native villageall on the outskirts of the town. The eminences of Halai are clad in luxuriant vegetation from base to summit, and also inside their craters. The principal attraction, however, is the great living volcano of Kilauea, thirty miles distant, and 4040 feet above sea level. Tourists come especially to see this great vent of the earth's internal fires, which can be reached on horseback and in carriages in four or five hours from Hilo. " We made an early start on one of those still and beautiful mornings for which the Hilo district is famed and in a few minutes were cantering merrily along THE VOLCANO ROAD, which is nearly level for four miles, until the lower edge of' a tropical forest is reached. The first mile is along Volcano Road, a Ililo street, to a line of fish-ponds, or small lakes; and then the cane-fields of Waiakea plantation border the road on both sides for two miles farther. The last mile of this four-mile stretch, becomes more broken as we proceed, and is bordered by wild growths, chiefly ferns and grass, right up to the ' woods.' The new carriage road from Hilo to the volcano will soon be completed through its entire route of thirty miles, when vehicles mayp ass over it. This new road leads through the woods over a kind of rounded and flat rock, called pahoehoe by the natives. These flattened rocky pavements are old lava flows, which have a rough coating on the surface, not unlike emery or sand-paper, that is hard on people's shoes, but affords firm footing for horses. We cross several ravines of gentle grade, and notice that on both sides of us are dense evergreen jungles of pandanus, ohia lehua, with its scarlet blossoms, tree-ferns, supple-jacks and other creeping 7tRk0 UG t tA AII. ol Plants and vines, and a luxuriant undergrowth of vegetation. No water can be seen or heard in this forest solitude, nor are there any musquitoes or other tormenting insects. A few harmless lizards of small size occasionally dart across the path; but no other reptiles are met with, and snakes are unknown in any part of the group. The distance through this timber belt is three miles, and at the farther side we arrive at a coffee plantation, where we find the plants thriving, although only a few months old. A few m ides farther, through A FERN-CLA' BEG]OlN' we come to a cocoanut grove, a palm which is rather uncommon so far from the ocean and at such an elevation-500 feet above sea levels Yet these trees are of the usual size and height, and bear abundantly their toothsome nuts. There are several native houses here, and also a well of good water in a t catch" of the tock. Springs of water are not met with on this road; but there are seVer.al - catches" by the wayside, into which the Tain-water drips, and these supply wholesome drink for man and beast. " We are now ten miles from Hilo, and the road becomes more overgrown with grass and fern. Since we passed the bel-t of timber the land has been comparatively free from rock, and the* soil is a dark colored alluvium, coarse-grained, but very fertile for miles together. These areas are all fern-clad, and the species here is of the fiddle-head variety, so-called from the appearance of the young frond before it expands and develops into leaf. There are also many other varieties of fern, small and large, and among the latter is the pula tree-fern, which produces the commodity that gives the name to this plant. " As we rise in altitude our view widens, but timber belts in the distance are seen all around. Looking backward and seaward, we see the placid and shimmering ocean, and hear the moaning of the surf. Birds sing in chorus upon the stunted timber that grows here and there near the road, and everything of life, that we see or hear, has a native origin. No mynahs nor sparrows, no lantana nor mimosa invade the solitudes of Hawaii; although these birds and exotic vegetation are common enough on the Island of Oahu, 200 miles distant. TO U1TISTSr OU1D)E ", The air is getting cooler and more rarified, a large portfio of its bulk is needed for breath. As we approach THE HALF-WAY HOUSE the timber belts contract; and even on these pahoehoe areas, tall trees are seen, and their roots twist and twine and penetrate every crevice and rent in the rock to find their needed nourishment. The decomposition observable on the old lava flows, or pahoehoe, is in places extensive and makes very rich soil, and the vegetation is exceedingly luxuriant. Guava bushes here assume the size of treesy and the massive fern growth is unequaled in any country. The half-way house is now in sight,r and on the surrounding areas are some native houses. "We are now thirteen miles from Hilo, and seventeen and onefourth miles from the Volcano House i it is, therefore, prudent that we rest here, as it is nearly noon. This house of accommodcation has several bedrooms and the usual conveniences of a stopping place; but as our host makes very poor attempts at speaking English, the best we can do is to proceed on our journey after partaking of some tone-finger poi/, which is presented to us, Opposite the half-way house is a native school of some pretensions, but it seemed to be keeping holiday as we passed. Around here are large quantities of edible berries called ohelor a pleasant tasting fruit, and very easily gathered from the low bushes where it hangs in tempting red and yellow clusters. These berries resemnble cranberries in appearance, but in taste and consistence they are not unlike grapes, although less acid and juicy. This plant is evidently a variety of the blueberry of north-eastern America, and the blaeberry of Scotland i but more favorable conditions of climate and soil have produced, in the ohelo, a very much larger size of both bush and berry. The taste and shape of the fruit are, however, similar, and the matter of size and color is doubtless owing to difference in climate and soil. After passing the half-way house scattered trees abound on the roadsider and a green finch, peculiar to the islands, warbles melodious notes as we pass. Indeed the woods all around here are~ vocal with the song of birds at all houra of the day, and their notes are sweet and continuous. Flocks of mountain plover rise from their feeding grounds, and crows are occasionally seen; but no wild quadruped makes its appearance. As we proceed, the mountain forests of o4i0 THRO UGH HA WAIL. 3s lehua approach nearer to the track, catches of water become more common, and a built path of stones is traversed for about a mile. We are now about five miles above the half-way house, and forests of ohmia bound the track on both sides. The country is on the whole level but broken, covered with pahoehoe, and overgrown with olia, ohelo and fern. When the woods are passed, an open country comes into view, and the great mountains of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea are seen nestling among the clouds. The ascent now becomes gradually mnore steep, but much cooler. From here to the four-mile board the track is somewhat rough and steep, and there is a great deal of ohia timber; but no obstacle to easy traveling exists anywhere. Three miles farther brings us to a fine wagon road, and another mile and a quarter along this highway lands us at THE VOLCANO HOUSE, which is the property of Wilder'ts Steamship Co. It is now 6 P. x., and, after a hearty and first-class meal, and an evening round the old-fashioned fireplace, we retire for the night to a comfortable bed-room. "c The hotel accommodations are confined to what is known as the Volcano House, where everything in reason can be obtained. This substantially-built and comfortable house is of one story, and has a wide veranda over 100 feet long. The main building is 110 feet long by thirty-five feet wide, and there are six bed-rooms which accommodate three persons each, exclusive of two bedrooms for the family use of the manager. As many as thirty-five guests can be accommodated if it should happen that such a number come at one time, but this has never yet been the case. There are extra beds, and plenty of extra bedding, ottomans, sofas, etc. It is now in contemplation also to add several bedTooms to the building, and make alterations and improved additions to other portions of the house. The parlor and diningroom adjoin each other in the middle part of the main building, and both these are large and convenient. The former has several sofas and a superior melodeon of large size. There is also a comfortable and roomy fireplace, with rocking and easy chairs around. A well selected library and medicine-chest are also there-the latter being well supplied with all the medicines and surgical infinaments needed. 'The manager, Mr. Maby, is an obliging, 54 THRO UGH HAWAII. and entertaining host, and Mrs. Maby attends to the lady guests in a manner that has given much satisfaction and appreciation. "Outside, and in front of the building, is a flower garden,s and to the left of the house a vegetable patch, where the usual vegetables are grown to perfection. There are also stables and paddocks for the accommodation of horses, which are grain-fed morning and evening. As there are no springs of water nor streamlets in this volcanic region, rain-water has to be d pended upon, and large tanks are kept for its. storage; but there is never any scarcity of this necessary of Jife at the Volcano House. During our stay the whole arrangements and surroundings gave our party the fullest satisfaction, and there was much greater comfort experienced than we could have reasonably expected; indeed~, there are few hotels or boarding-houses in Honolulu that are so well supplied with conveniences as the Volcano House at Kilauea. " Next morning we are early astir, and find that there are steam-holes all around us on the brink of the great crater where the Volcano House is built. We visit the sulphur baths near by, where is a large bank of pure brimstone, and more forming by the condensation of the sulphurous vapor arising from~ the several. blow-holes. Clusters of ohelo berries hang from the hushes, all around, and this plant grows also among the brimstone beds.The sulphur baths may be described as air-tight boxes with an opening at the top from which the head of the bather projects. To these boxes a pipe is laid from a sulphur steam-hole, and thebox fills gradually with the vapor which, surrounds the bather's. body. The temperature of the steam thus introduced is regulated to meet requirements, and the bath-boxes are enclosed in a frame building, where are, other bathing utensils. Th.ese baths have proved very efficacious in. caring certain classes ot diseases; and,. when they become more widely known, will doubtless attract large numbers. of suffering humanity. At the mouths of some of the steamn-holes a redidish brown ooze or pigment is formed; but whether this substance has any commercial value has not yet been determined. About a mile to the westward of the sulphur-beds is a large koa grove, where some of the trees are from two to three feet in diameter. This species of timber is suited for ornamental cabinet work and is of a rich brown color, close veined4 THRO UGH HA WAII. and commands a high price. The koa is peculiar to these islands, and is a handsome tree with a clean trunk and beautiful foliage. When the wagon road from Hilo is finished, much of this wild timber will find its way to market; and many resources of this mountain district will then have a value little dreamed of at present. We are now 4040 feet above sea level, and the air is cool and bracing during the day, though somewhat chilly at night; but there is a good fire in the hotel parlor and we are happy. After breakfast, and before descending into the grand crater, a guide takes us to KILAUEA-IKI, a dormant crater, one mile from the Volcano House and reached by a path through the timber, which is here of stunted growth. The fires of this crater are at present extinct; but there is a close connection and a supposed subterranean passage between this huge pit and the lakes of fire at Kilauea, from which it is divided by a quarter mile of deep and rugged ravine. Kilauea-iki is one mile in circumference, 1000 feet deep, 1860 feet across the bottom or floor, and the sides are so precipitous that any attempt to descend them is attended with danger; although successful descents hlave been made. From the brink of the crater upon wvhich we stand, the whole interior of the immense pit can be seen with its blackened floor strewn over with volcanic debris, and the sides from top to bottom covered with vegetation similar to what surrounds our point of observation. When the adjoining volcano is in extra activity, and its lava flows rise to sufficient height, Kilauea-iki receives a part of the fiery flood; but its own fires are now invisible, and a thick crust of cold lava covers them. We now retrace our steps towards the Volcano House through the omnipresent ohia, with its scarlet blossoms, and a rich undergrowth of ohelo bushes, from which one person could pick a bushel of berries in half an hour. The ohia lehua, which is the most common of all the timber in this district, although a native of Hawaii, is not peculiar to these islands." CURIOS. Pele's Hair-a substance thrown off by the molten lava and found close to the lakes of fire. It clings to the adjoining rocks in fibre-like threads of a flaxen color, and has the appearance of human hair; but mixed with it are sharp particles of black lava. 56 TO URISTS' G UIDE Considering that this substance is a mineral production, it is wonderfully flexible and tough-bending easily, but not ductile in its present state or capable of being lengthened. It is peculiar to this volcano, and is certainly a singular production. Shining Lava-composed of black and also brown lava matrix, chilled and honey-combed, and having imbedded in it shining crystals of yellow, green and blue colors. These gems are sulphurets of different metals, chiefly iron, and they are so thickly set in the matrix that the appearance of these specimens is very rich and often gorgeous in the blending and sparkling quality of color. Pieces of this variety can be picked up on the path across the crater in many places, from an ounce to a pound in weight. They are very pretty and interesting as mineral gems and relics of the visit. Lava Specimens. These are of a very varied nature, so far as form is concerned, and assume their shape in the turnings and twistings of lava flows during eruptions. When there is a new flow in motion over the crater the molten lava can be moulded to any form, and these artificial specimens are also prized and preserved. In places on the floor of the crater, there are other curiosities which find their way into museums and cabinets. There are patches covered with a white substance resembling snow, and at other places red and brown patches are seen. Strange forms of upheaval also arise in the crater, and vanish in the course of time by a crumbling process inseparable from these lava conditions. At the period of the writer's visit there appeared, near the path, a shape of lava very like an ostrich-the body was placed upon two long legs, and there was the lail, head and long neck conmplete and life-like; but upon nearer approach the illusion was not so striking. Regarding other productions of this volcano, that have, or may have a commercial value, should be mentioned sulphur and pigments. The former is of good quality and abundant, in a large deposit of volcanic debris near the sulphur baths of the Volcano House. There are also other deposits of this mineral near Halemaumau and elsewhere around. The pigments, found at the mouths of the steam-holes are a red-colored ooze that is kept moist by the steam. The color varies from red to brown, with often a tinge of yellow. Oxide of iron doubtless gives the hue to these pigments. LUNALILO HOME FOR AGEI HAWAIAN 7 I THR 0 UGH HA WAII. 57 OTHER ROUTES AND SCENES ON HAWAII. Besides the Volcano trip there are many interesting points and many picturesque scenes to be viewed in the whole Island, and many a tourist may wish to extend his travels somewhat out of the beaten track of those going to and returning from the crater. As it would be impossible to pick out exactly what each particular tourist wishes to see, a short sketch of each district of the Island is given The best way to make the circuit of the Island is to buy a horse, and then when done with him sell the animal for what he will fetch. To'hire a horse is simply ruinous, except for short distances. The following places can be reached by the Steamer Kinau: Mahukona, Kawaihfae, Laupahoehoe and Hilo. By the Steamer W. G. fIall: Kailua, Keauhou, Kealakekua, Hookena, Hoopuloa, Honuapo and Punaluu. By other steamers, all ports in Hamakua can be reached from Honolulu direct. The above information is given not so much for tourists as for those who wish to reach a specific point. To those desirous of making a complete tour of the Island, Mahukona is recommended as a good starting place. Those wishing to make a tour through the Hamakua and Hilo districts, for the purpose of seeing the large sugar plantations, will find the same landing place very suitable. Kona can be best seen by landing at Hookena and working north to Kailua, while Puna can be taken from Hilo and the Volcano on the return route or vice versa. Mahukona is the first place on Hawaii that the Kinau touches at. (For description, see p. 44.) The visitor who has made up his mind to make the circuit of the Island should land here. He should supply himself with letters to some of the plantation managers before starting from Honolulu, as they will greatly smooth his path. He should send notice of his coming before hand, to the friends with whom he intends to stay, and should also write about the purchase of his horse. If it is decided not to buy a horse, it is always better to carry a saddle, etc., as a horse can be obtained where it would be very inconvenient to get the loan of a saddle. In choosing horses for the trip, stout chunky cobs are recommended; as the work is rough and the feed is sometimes very poor indeed. It is better to have a guide, indeed in some parts of the Island it is indispensable, though as clear directions as 58 TO URISTS' G UIDE possible, as to roads, will be given in this work. A boy and horse for the round trip should be obtained for $24 for the month's service, or at that rate for any longer time, he providing his own horse. If guides are taken from point to point, it becomes very much more expensive. With such preliminaries, the following sketch of each district is given. DISTRICT OF KOHALA. This is a small compact district of which a very fair idea may be formed in from two to three days.. Its northern end is rocky and barren in appearance, but after a few miles e, grassy country is entered upon, and shortly after this gives place to the cane land. At the south eastern end of the district a fine view of the precipitous cliffs towards Waipio is obtained. These cliffs stretch for a distance of ten miles and vary from 1500 to 2000 feet in height. A trip into the Pololu gulch, will give a stranger some idea of what these ravines are really like. The descent is easy and bathing parties are frequently organized by the residents. There are five sugar mills in the district, viz., Hawi, Union Mill, Kohala Mill, Halawa and Nililii Mills. The plantations connected with the mills occupy about 7,500 acres of land under cultivation. The roads throughout the district are good, and all parts can be easily reached in a wheeled vehicle. Two large schools for instruction in the English language have been established in the district, one at Ainakea and one at Makapala. In the grounds of the former stands a statue of Kamnehameha. This statue went through some adventures before reaching its present home. It was originally intended for the front of the Government House in Honolulu. The vessel bringing it out took fire and was sunk at. Port Stanley, Falkland Islands. On the news of its loss, a replica was ordered in Europe, which duly catme to hand, and now stands in the grounds of Aliiolani Hale. Meanwhile an enterprising Captain fished up the original statue and brought it to Honolulu. It was bought by the Government, the only damage having been the melting off of one of the hands, Another hand was sent for to Europe and on its arrival was fixed in proper position. As Kohala was the birth place and favorite home of Kamehameha I., it was considered appropriate'that a lasting memorial should be erected there, and now the effigy of the Warrior Chief gazes across the slopes of Kohala and the TIiRO UGH TA WAII. shining waters of the channel upon the mountain mass of Haleakala, in much the same way as he did in life, when he was meditating his schemes of conquest. Apart from the agricultural and other enterprises carried on in Kohala there are two objects of antiquarian interest, viz: the heiau or heathen temple at Punepu, and the ancient water course at lole. The heiau is three hundred and fifty feet long, one hundred and fifty wide, its walls thirty feet thick at the base, eight at the top and fourteen feet high. The walls are partly in ruins. Tradition says the stones for the construction of these monstrous walls were passed from the valley of Pololu, twelve miles distant, by a file of workmen standing in battle array the whole distance. Three altars stand within the sacred enclosure,, and niches may still be discovered in the wall wher ile idols stood. That in the north-eastern corner was for the great god of the temple. Human.sacrifices were favorite oblations both to the deities loved or hated. Mea were immolated to avert contagious disease, to secure victory before war, to celebrate triumph at its conclusionr; in fact, in the absence of cattle, sheep and goats, man was the handiest blood-sacrifice, and humanity perished by hecatomia bs. The victims were permitted to remain on the central altar during two whole days. On the morning of the third day, and when putrefaction had commenced, the bodies were removed to a large, flat stone on the outside of the temple. This stone was placed near the east corner of the north wall. Its dimensions were seven feet long by five wide and it was slightly concave. It was sacred to the purposes of immolation. When the victims abo.ve alluded to were placed upon it, the flesh was stripped from the bones and the latter separated. Both flesh and bones were then carried down to the sea and thoroughly washed. On being conveyed back 'to the temple, the bones were tied up in bundles and the flesh was. consumed to ashes at the back of the altars. The interest connected with the water course at Iole, lies in the obstacles encountered and surmounted by a savage race, destitute of iron implements and engineering tools. The water lay in a ravine, 200 feet and more below the land level and the problem was to take the whole stream from the head of the ravine where it fell and carry it on to. the land below. This was done by building an embankment from the bed of the ravine to the desired IOU TO URISTS'a GUIDE height and constructing a water-course thereon. After the embankment terminates, the channel is hewn in the sides of solid rock for more than half a mile, and that with stone axes and sticks of hard wood. Take it all in all, this is the most remarkable of the relics of ancient Hawaiian skill and labor to be found in the whole group. There are numerous pleasant residences in north Kohala and the tourist who comes properly supplied with letters of introduction can count on having a very pleasant time. SOUTH KOHALA. Though larger in area than north Kohala, this district is very sparsely populated, last census only giving a population of 589. The principal industry is stock raising, for which the country affords some fine pasture. A large portion of this district is occupied by table land, from 2500 to 3000 feet in height, lying between the Kohala mountains and Mauna Kea. The climate of the table land is healthy and invigorating. Riding from north Kohala to Waimea the road ascends to a considerable height going over the shoulder of the Kohala mountains. Puuhue and Kahua Stock ranches are passed, and in both cases the buildings are at some distances from the main road. About ten miles from Kohala, a fine prospect is obtained of the coast line to the southward as far as Nawili point in north Kona. The country is barren, being streaked, for miles upon miles, with lava flows ancient and recent. Fin/ views are also obtained of the outlines of Mauna Kea and Hualalai. Easy riding ought to take the tourist to Waimea in five hours. The distance from Kohala is about twenty-five miles, but the road is in some places quite rough. Waimea was formerly a place of some importance, but has dwindled down into a very small village which wakles up once a year when the Court is in session. There is a Chinese restaurant at Waimea, where meals can be obtained, but for sleeping accommodation the traveler is dependent upon private hospitality. About eight miles south east of Waimea at an elevation of 4000 feet, is Mana, the residence of the Hon. Samuel Parker. The house stands in a charming situation and enjoys a most bracing climate. The lands about Waimea are largely in Mr. Parker's hands, and are well stocked with both cattle and horses. TiPO UGM HA AWAII, DISTRICT OF HAMAKUA, This Is one of the best cane growing districts of the group, and contains a number of very flourishing plantations. The land slopes toward the sea and is much cut up by gulches, through which, however, good roads have been constructed. The whole coast is very precipitous and the landings are difficult. In most places passengers and freight have to be lifted out of the boats in cages and swung on shore by means of cranes. The scenery throughout the district is romantic, varying in character from the rocky cliffs of Waipio and Waimanu to the rolling uplands around Honokaa and Paauilo. The government road runs about a mile and a half to two miles above the mills and mill buildings, but in most cases there are small villages upon the road. In these are stores where various supplies can be obtained and in many cases beds for a night. The distance from Kukuihaele to the northern line of Hilo district is 30 miles. The road from Waimea to Kukuihaele goes across the Waimea plains and then turns northeast down the slope. This portion of the road is called i, mud lane," and used to have an unenviable notoriety as being the worst road on the islands; it has been considerably improved of late. The distance is twelve miles and should be easily made in two and a half hours. A day can be very profitably spent in visiting Waipio and Waimanu valleys. Waipio valley is the most visited, being easiest of access. A good road leads down the side of the gulch, the grade being sufficiently gentle to ride down the whole way. Miss Bird, author of the Hawaiian Archipelago thus describes this valley. WAIPIO VALLEY. ", There is something fearful in the isolation of this valley, open at one end to the sea, and walled in on all others by palis or precipices, from 1000 to 2000 feet in height, over the loftiest of which hangs the dizzy track, which after trailing over the country for sixty difficult miles, connects Waipio with the little world of Hilo. * * * * I do not care for any waterfall but Niagara, nor do I care in itself for this one, for though its first leap is 200 feet and its second 1,600, it is so frittered away and dissipated in spray, owing to the very magnitude of its descent, there is no volume of water within sight to create mass or sound, TO UtST)ST Gs'IDS B3ut no Words can paint the majesty of the surroundings, the vaverned, precipitous walls of rock coming down in one black plunge from the blue sky above to the dark abyss of water below; the sullen shuddering sound With which pieces of rock come hurtling down among the trees, the thin tinkle of the water as it falls, the full rush of the river, the feathery growth of ferns, gigantic below, but so diminished by the height above, as only to show their presence by the green tinge upon the rocks; while in addition to the gloom produced by the stupendous height of the cliffs, there is a cool, green darkness of dense forest) and mighty trees of strange tropical forms glass themselves in the black mirror of the basin. For one moment a ray of sunshine turned the upper part of the spray into a rainbow, and never to my eyes had the bow of promise looked so heavenly as when it spanned the bNack) solemn,, tree-shadowed abyss., whose deep, still waters only catch a sunbeam on five days of. the year." Waimanu can be reached in two ways, either on horseback by ascending the cliff on the west side of Waipio, and having reached the upper table land, and crossed its eight or ton small gulches, again descending into Waimnanu-t-a very picturesque route but requiring a rider who is not hothered with weak nerves-or by boat from Waipio. This is the quicker and more pleasant route, and the cliff scenery between the valleys is perhaps unrivaled in its grandeur. Though less visited, on account of the difficulty of access, Waimanu is far more romantic and striking than Waipio. The waterfalls are finer, and the cliffs higher, reaching 2500 feet. If a boat is taken from Waipio to Waimanu and return, the cost will be $10. The principal mills and plantations in this district are, Kukuihaele, Honokaa, Ptiauhau, Paauilo and Kukaiau. At each of these points will be found small villages, with stores, churches) school houses, etc. Honokaa is the principal place in Hamakua. It is most central, and the village is more extensive than either Kukuihaele or Paauilo. DISTRICT O tILO. This district is one of the best watered on the Islands and is cut up by numerous gulches. The land slopes from the mountain towards the sea ending in abrupt precipices cut deep into by the THR UGH UHA WAII. 63 numerous gulches. These gulches are many of them very beautiful, tilled with a wealth of tropical vegetation such as ti, ohia, kukui, coffee and ferns in endless variety. The entire district is devoted to cane cultivation, and forms a portion of that sixty miles ribbon of cane which stretches from the borders of Waipio to some miles beyond Hilo. Leaving the district of Hlamakua, the traveler will encounter the first Hilo Plantation at Ookala. In fact a considerable portion of the cane is in lands belonging to Hamakua. The village, however, is in the Hilo district. It is a very picturesque spot and the houses clustered around the mill buildings have more the appearance of a little hamlet than most places in Hawaii. Four miles from O()kala, Laupahoehoe is reached. At this place the steamer Kinau touches twice in ten days. The village is situated at the mouth of a deep gulch, the sides of which are 385 feet high. The land at the bottom of the gulch is flat, a leaf of lava which has run into the sea and at the edge of which it breaks in heavy surf. There are a few stores, and a Chinese restaurant, where travelers can find accommodation for payment. On reaching the high land above the Laupahoehoe gulch, a very short distance has to be traversed before arriving at the Kaiwilahilahi mill, but several gulches have to be crossed. Then follows a very broken country, every flat covered with cane until the Maulua Gulch is reached. This is the deepest ravine in the whole route, the sides being 406 feet high. The grade of the road, however, is very good, and it has nothing of the terrors for timid riders which the writers of books and letters are apt to make out. The spot is extremely picturesque with its fern and tree clad sides and its frowning precipices. Shortly after passing Maulua; Pohakupuka is reached and then come a multiplicity of small ravines till Hakalau comes in sight. This to the unaccustomed traveler will be, perhaps, a trying experience. The road at the present time is very steep. From this point forward are a series of deep gulches and large plantations, nearly all of which take their names from the gulch. They are Honomu, Kaupakuea, Pepeekeo, Onomea, Papaikou, Paukaa and Wainaku. Though there are so many gulches they are by no means as bad as represented by passing travelers. The fact is that people always like to exaggerate their own efforts, and the result is that those who have gone through the Hilo gulches have rather mag 64 TOUR1ISTS' a UIDE nified the difficulties of the route. There really is no difficulty, and the distance between Laupahoehoe and Hilo is but thirty miles. DISTRICT OF PUNA. This district presents some features which are well worth the exertion which the traveler will have to make in order to see them. The general appearance from the road is sterile, especially in the southern part, where there are considerable tracts covered with lava rock supporting the scantiest of vegetation. The northern part of the district is covered with a dense lauhala forest and is thinly inhabited. The road is thus very monotonous. Some 18 miles from Hilo the country begins to improve, and away from the main road, upon the slopes of the mountain there are many acres of excellent land, suitable for coffee and fruit growing. The south eastern part of Puna has some celebrity for its groves of cocoanuts, the trees being more abundant here than in any other part of the islands. The traces of volcanic action are extremely prominent in this district, flow after flow of lava from the disintegrated ones of ages past to those of a comparatively recent date are to be found. The most striking flow is that of 1840, which after pursuing an underground course for many miles suddenly burst forth in the woods and rushed down to the sea, overwhelming a small village in its course. During the great earthquakes of 1868, the whole southern coast of Puna was lowered. Traces of this may be seen in the stumps of cocoanut trees which are left sticking up amid the constant surf. The tourists selecting to go through Puna should obtain letters for either Kapoho or Pohoiki, where the first night would be spent, and for Kaimu, which should be the second stopping place. The road from Hilo, skirts along the Bay, passes over the Waiakea river and very shortly plunges into a thick belt of forest which extends as far as Keanu, nine and a quarter miles from Hilo. From thence the road goes in almost a straight line through long tracts of lauhala groves, with occasional glades affording glimpses of the sea. A few scattered houses are passed and at Makuu, 15 miles from Hilo, there is quite a little settlement. Some four miles further on the flow of 1840 is crossed. The lava looks almost as fresh to-day, as when it came down fifty years ago, but REIEC OFHN C -BSHP RESIDENCE OF_HON C. R. BISHOP. I i 1 f,, I THROUGhI HAWAII. 5 straggling ferns, gathering a precarious existence, hene and there In the crevices, show that disintegration has commenced and that soil is beginning to form. Two hills of black sand at the termination of the flow are well worth examining. Kapoho, twenty-three miles from Hilo, is-a ranch occupied by Captain Eldart, an old pioneer. The position of the ranch buildings is quite picturesque. Behind, or matitka of the ranch, are a group of volcanic cones, embosomed in the lower of these is the famous Green Lake. The water of this lake has always an olive green tint. It occupies a circular basin, the tides of which rise at a slope of forty-five degrees. Around the edge are cocoanuts, guavas, bananas and other trees and shrubs. In 1868, when the coast sank some four feet, the water in this lake rose just that height. Before that time it was possible to walk round the edge, but the former beach has sunk beneath the surface, and those desiring to reach the other side must now swime for it. Leaving Green Lake, a most interesting excursion can be made to the scene of an old flow, which has left some unique monuments. Riding through the forest the traveler will be struck with a number of aged tree trunks. On examination these apparent tree trunks will be found to be hollow columns of lava. Centuries upon centuries ago a very liquid flood of lava must have suddenly swept down through the primeval forest and where it touched the tree trunks it formed moulds the exact size and shape of the tree. Hundreds of these monuments are to be seen, some of them fifteen to twenty feet in height. The hollow pipe extends below the present level of the flow for from eight to ten feet. The sight of these memorials of a perished forest, around which trees as lofty and of as great girth have again sprung up from a level ten feet above the roots of the dead and gone vegetation, is both curious and instructive. About a mile makai or seaward of the Kapoho ranch is a warm pool or spring.. This is a charming spot. The pool is situated at the foot of a cliff some eighty feet high, while on one side it is approached by a somewhat abrupt slope, clothed with grass and shaded by trees, conspicuous among which are hundreds of cocoanut trees. The water is as clear as crystal and every detail of the rocky bottom can be distinctly seen. The pool is seventy feet long, twenty feet wide and varies in depth from twelve to twenty feet. There is a slight current flowing eastward. The water is plea 66 TO URISTS' G UIDE santly warm, not hot. It has the curious property of making the skin look like alabaster. Constant bathing in this pool is said to be very good for rheumatism. The hill or mound, at the foot of which this spring lies, is of itself a curiosity. On the top are the foundations of a temple made of the most accurately dressed stone. It was built in two terraces and a long flight of steps must have approached it from the lower portion of the inound. The stones are well made but set together without cement. This was the site of a fishing temple. It commands a magnificent view. Due east is Cape Kumukahi, north and south stretches the open sea, while west lie the slopes of Maunaloa, the foreground relieved by the broken mass of craters, among which is embosomed Green Lake. On the cape are numerous heaps of stones each representing the work of an Hawaiian Sovereign. The most recent have of course been erected by King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani. At Pohoiki three miles from Kapoho is another cattle ranch. A saw mill has also been established here and a quantity of lumber is exported to Honolulu. The place is the property of the Hon. M. Robinson, and is in charge of Mr. R. Rycroft. From hence to Kalapana the road presents varied scenic beauties and the traveler has an opportunity of seeing the Hawaiian in his villages away from any foreign influence. After leaving Pohoiki there is no white family resident till the Volcano House is reached. The villages are all small, the houses being scattered irregularly along the road. Opihikao is about five miles from Pohoiki, and Kaimu is some eight miles still further on. It is at this village that the traveler is recommended to stay. The cocoanut grove here is one of the finest along the coast. Kalapana is only one mile from Kaimnu, indeed it almost seems a continuation of it. After leaving Kalapana the road begins to turn somewhat inland and finally ascends the mountain side reaching the top of the cliffs at Panau, where are two small native houses. From thence the road is through the thick forest till the Volcano House is reached. The distance from Kaimu to the Volcano House is twenty-four miles. The road is in many places rocky, and ample time must be taken for performing the journey. In visiting the Island of Hawaii, Puna, though difficult of access, and presenting some very hard riding, is well worth the trouble and hardship incurred. Travelers will require a guide, especially on the piece of road from Kalapana to the Volcano. tTR20 UGT II HA WAtI. DISTRICT OF KAU. Kau is the most southerly district of the Island. The eastern part, near the coast is a mass of bare lava rock., some slight descriiption of which has been given when writing of the Keauhou route to the volcamo. Above this is a belt of forest, which becomes less dense to the centre of the district, where fine pastures begin to spread out. In thee southern part between Kapapala and Waiohinu is a very fertile belt of cane land. Beyond this comes more pasture laud, but the extreme west, marked by two recent lava flows, becomes quite sterile, marked by masses of rock and inhospitable ohia forest. The whole district bears the impress of recent volcanic action. Plows of lava of recent date being interspersed with older flows and with tracts where the ancient flows have completely disintegrated and formed a fine soil. In 1868 this district suffered severely. There was a series of very severe earthquakes, a tidal wave swept along the coast, destroying a number of small hamlets and drowning a few of the people. Near to Kapapala a land slide or ", mud flow" suddenly burst from the mountain side, engulfing a party of putu gatherers together with their pack train, and a lava flow broke out on the western part, which overwhelmed the house of one of the pioneer cattlemen in that part of the district. In 1887 the volcanic shake-up, which ended in another lava flow, was preceded by many earthquakes, which though sufficiently alarming, did not cause much destruction. The traveler who has reached the volcano, either via Hilo or via Puna, can easily enter Kau. There is an excellent road into the district, from the Volcano House to Punaluu. As already stated, accommodation can be obtained at Captain Lee's hotel. 'The plantations of the district are the Pahala, Hilea, Honuapo annd Naalehu. The three latter are now under one management, the manager, Mr. Center, having his head quarters at Naalehu. WAIOHIMSJ, a mile from Naalehu, was a few years ago a place,of some importance) but is now something very like Goldsmith's Deserted Village. It wakes up once a year when the Circuit Court is held and lawyers, jurors, sheriffs, plaintiffs, police and prisoners come in, and then it sinks once more into slumber. The village has a pretty situation enclosed by hills which are ever verdant. Stores are to be found at Pahala, Naalehu and Waiohinu, where the traveler can purchase any necessaries he may require. 6^ f68&TO;Ip Sf G;U1Df If it fs proposed to go into Kona, a few tins of beef, hard brend, tea, coffee and sugar should be purchased at Waiohinu, as, until the vicinity of Kealakekua is reached,, the comrnissariat is not apt to be of a very luxurious character. Eight miles beyond %Waiohlnu is the cattle ranch of Kahuku. The estate or land of Kahuklu is 183,000 acres in extent, but the amount of pasture land is small. The tande runs up to the summit of Mauna Loa and includes a portion of the crater of Mokuaweoweo. The estate is also crossed by the lava flows of 1868 and 1887 which destroyed much valuable pasture land, The positionr of the Ranch buildings is very pleasant and the climate is bracing. A fine view of the southerly point of the island can he obtained and of the coast line towards Kona. The lava gow of 1867, which passes at the foot of the bluff upon which the buildings of the Kahuku Ranch stand, will Well repay a visit f some hours can be profitably spent in wandering up it and examining its many caves and hollows, filled with all kinds of lava fantastically shaped and brilliantly colored. DISTBRICT F0 SOUT1q KO1A. This district is seldom visited by the ordinary tourist. At a few points it is touched by the Inter-Istamd Company's steamer7 but very little can be judged of the country by a few half hours' stay at an anchorage which does not even allow the passenger to go a mile from the landings The coast is exceedingly barren, consisting of bare lava rock; interspersed, here and there with sandy beaches and small bays7, but on the uplands the scenery is very different. A belt of forest extends the whole length of the district and the riding through this is qu-ite pleasant. The tourist should as much as possible keep to the - upper"f road. There are, after reaching the vicinity of Hookenar two roads, one over tle bare lava near the sea, and one through the woods, about 1000 feet above the sea level. The forest belt is very fertile, though little use is made of the soil by the inhabitants. The chief product is coffee, and this is of excellent quality. in fact, taking its place as the equal of the celebrated Mocha coffee. Oranges tooy have been planted and yield fair crops, but the industry is not yet on a good commercial basis. The pineapple crop is a heavy one, but there is no market for the produce, or rather the market is a very limited one. On the coast the climate is, of course, dry and hot, bwt THIRO UGH HA WAIL on tbe uplands it is pleasant and cool, indeed, at night it is quite cold, requiring blankets on the beds. As a rule, through the year, plentiful showers fall on the uplands, especially in the afternoon. The thirsty low lands can see the curtain of mist half ta mile away from therm, but not a drop reaches them. Traveling from Kau, the first stoppage should be made at either Hopuloa or Papa. At ltopuloa there is a small two-story house where the traveler can get accommodation for the night, but not food. At Papa, which is some four miles further on, there are a number of native houses, and accommodation can be obtained, of a kind. The traveler through this portion of Kona anust make up his mind to rough it.. From Papa there is a pleasant ride to Kainalio, which just overhangs Kealakekua Bay, but in spite of the discomfort of heat and bad bridle paths it is well worth descending to the lower road and visiting the valleys of Iookena, Honaunau and Napoopoo, returning to the upper road from the latter place. Hookena is a large village close to the sea beach and is probably the last specimen on the islands of a purely Hawaiian comanunity. The houses are well built and neat, there are two churches, one Congregational and one Roman Catholic, and there is an excellent school. The latter is taught in English, but the three teachers are Hawaiians. Honaunau is one of the most interesting spots on the islands possessing the only perfect, or nearly perfect remains of the old Hawaiian Cities of Refuge. Rev. Win. Ellis, the celebrated missionary, who made the tour of Hawaii in 1823, wrote a very accurate account of this spot, which is quoted below. He says *" Honaunau was formerly a place of considerable importance, having been the frequent residence of the kings of Hawaii for several successive generations. The monuments and relics of the zancient idolatry, with which this place abounds, were, from some cause unknown to us, spared amidst the general destruction of the idols, etc., that followed the abolition of the at tabu, in the summer of 1819.. ~ The principal object that attracted our attention, was the tale o Keawe (the House of Keawe), a sacred depository of the bones of departed kings and princes, probably erected for the reception of the bones of the king whose name it bears, and who TO URIRSTS' G UIDE reigned in Hawaii about eight generations back. It is a compact building, twenty-four feet by sixteen, constructed with the most durable timber, and thatched with ti leaves, standing on a bed of lava that runs out a considerable distance into the sea. It is surrounded by a strong fence or paling, leaving an area in the front, and at each end, about twenty-four feet wide. The pavement is of smooth fragments of lava, laid down with considerable skill. Several rudely carved male and female images of wood were placed on the outside of the enclosure,; some on low pedestals, under the shade of an adjacent tree; others on high posts, on the jutting rocks that hung over the edge of the water. A number stood on the fence, at unequal distances all around; but the principal assemblage of these frightful representatives of their former deities, was at the southeast end of the enclosed space, where, forming a semi-circle, twelve of them stood in grim array, as if perpetual guardians of the, mighty dead " reposing in the house adjoining. A pile of stones was neatly laid up in the form of a crescent, about three feet wide, and two feet higher than the pavement, and in this pile the images were fixed. They stood on small pedestals, three or four feet high, though some were placed on pillars eight or ten feet in height, and curiously carved. The principal idol stood in the center, the others on either hand; the most powerful being placed nearest to him. IHe was not so large as some of the others, but distinguished by the variety and superior carvings of his body, and especially of his head. Once they had evidently been clothed, but now they appeared in the most indigent nakedness. A few tattered shreds,. round the neck of one that stood on the left hand side of the doorI rotted by the rain and bleached by the sun, were all that remained of numerous and gaudy garments, with which their votaries had formerly arrayed them. A large pile of broken calabashes and cocoanut shells lay in the center, and a considerable heap of dried, and partly rotten, wreaths of flowers, branches of shrubs and bushes, and fragments of tapa (the accumulated offerings of former days), formed an unsightly mound immediately before each of the images. The horrid stare of these idols, the tattered garments upon some of them, and the heaps of rotting offerings before them, seemed to us no improper emblems of the system they were designed to support, distinguished alike by its cruelty, folly and wretchedness. 'THRO UGH HA WAII. 71 "We endeavored to gain admission to the inside of the house, but were told it was tabu loea (strictly prohibited), and that nothing but a direct order from the king, or Kalaimoku, could open the door. However, by pushing one of the boards across the door-way a little on one side, we looked in, and saw many large images, some of wood, very much carved, others of red feathers, with distended mouths, large rows of sharks' teeth and pearl-shell eyes. We also saw several bundles, apparently of human bones, cleaned, carefully tied up with sennet made of cocoanut fibres, and placed in different parts of the house, together with some rich shawls and other valuable articles, probably worn by those to whom the bones belonged, as the wearing apparel and other personal property of the chiefs is generally buried with them. "t Adjoining the Hale o Keawe, to the southward, we found a pahu tabu (sacred enclosure) of considerable extent, and were informed by our guide that it was one of the puhonuas of Hawaii, of which we had so often heard the chiefs and others speak. There,are only two on the island; the one which we were then examining and another at Waipio, on the northeast part of the island, in the district of Kohala. ", These puhonuas were the Hawaiian cities of refuge and afforded an inviolable sanctuary to the guilty fugitive who, when fleeing from the avenging spear, was so favored as to enter their precincts. This had several wide entrances, some on the side next the sea, the others facing the mountains. Hither the manslayer, the man who had broken a tabu, or failed in the observance of its rigid requirements, the thief, and even the murderer, fled from his incensed pursuers and was secure. To whomsoever he belonged, and from whatever part he came, he was equally certain of admittance, though liable to be pursued even to the gates of the enclosure. Happily for him, those gates were perpetually open; and as soon as the fugitive had entered, he repaired to the presence of the idol, and made a short ejaculatory address, expressive of his obligations to him in reaching the place with security. Whenever war was proclaimed, and during the period of actual hostilities, a white flag was unfurled on the top of a tall spear, at each end of the enclosure, and, until the conclusion of peace, waived the symbol of hope to those who, vanquished in fight, might flee thither for protection. It was fixed a short distance from the TO URIST'S G(UIDE walls on the outside, and to the spot on which this banner was unfurled, the victorious warrior might chase his routed foes; but here, he must himself fall back; beyond it he must not advance one step, on pain of forfeiting his life. The priests, and their adherents would immediately put to death any one who should have the temerity to follow or molest those who were once within the pale of the pahu tabu, and, as they expressed it, under the shade or protection of the spirit of Keawe, the tutelar deity of the place. "t In one part of the enclosure, houses were formerly erected for the priests, and others for the refugees who, after a certain period, or at the cessation of war, were dismissed by the priests and returned unmolested to their dwellings and families; no one venturing to injure those who, when they fled to the gods had been by them protected. We could not learn the length of time it was necessary for them to remain in the puhonua; but it did not appear to be more than two or three days. After that, they either attached themselves to the service of the priests, or returned to their homes. "The puhonua at Honaunau is capacious, and capable of containing a vast multitude of people. In time of war the females, children and old people of the neighboring districts were generally left within it while the men went to battle. Here they awaited in safety the issue of the conflict, and were secure against surprise and destruction in the event of a defeat. ", The form of it was an irregular parallelogram, walled up on one side and at both ends, the other being formed by the seabeach, except on the northwest end, where there was a low fence. On measuring it we found it to be 715 feet in length and 404 feet wide. The walls were twelve feet high and fifteen feet thick. Holes were still visible in the top of the wall, where large images had formerly stood, about four rods apart throughout its whole extent. Within this enclosure were three large heiaus, two of which were considerably demolished, while the other was nearly entire. It was a compact pile of stones, laid up in a solid mass, 126 feet by sixty-five and ten feet high. Many fragments of rock or pieces of lava of two or more tons each, were seen in several parts of the wall, raised at least six feet from the ground, The erection of such a place as the puhonua at Honaunau, under the circumstances and with the means by which alone it was reared (as they had no machinery), must have been an Herculean i0.I3 PK.M. AJ a I (v ho o.ts P.M.I - I I 1 I I'l I - - II I 1111 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~. I I I I 1. 11 n rl * ' J ^ # IN 11 WHEN NOON 157~10' 157 (JO' 186~05 Longitude Vest 1S6~40' from Greenwich 156 80 156.aoW 156 10, AT LON=O - IL ATLODO ----------------------- - -- I.1 It,, Ka Lae o Ka Hlfo I IMTAT.vT iA T ^ —~-~^ —^_Ka~laupa r /"I-*sJLJL ky JU~ V" xvl i Kal 0a laL I 41 LC, 2,^ _^ax~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Halawa // ~~~Mauna Loa Kaltie - f /~~~~~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Olohui Ka Lae N a y ^ — ^. IRaunakakai 00 ^ uo ^-~\^ c ^^~~~~~~~~~~~-,^K~aluaaha ^ ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Honakahau ^~~~~0-1 +6__________________PAILO0LO G1A^NNEL Al^AT^ ^^ 1VLx J ------------------------------------------ g)I ------------------------ ---------- - - --------...,..,,.... ---------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ PIld I I C) 0 — A Kaena Pt. ( \ LANAl^ walua satinalel I^ Honokawalp LAHAINA 0 I) \ ^ I )%% Palawai Id Janele k^^ K — -- -- MoeleB \/aHalepala Kamalhe Pt. lo ( I I I. IS IN L N I I 05/ I I. / A I IN I.I II I I.Q I I dhee * 1"4 MJ). Sw. Com'mercial Co. I IP p -^ / — W! lowalu'S-s/' ';~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ^^ ^^~~~~~~~~~4 w~~~~~ 20~40 I03 ^aikapu r-. MA I, LANAI, MOLIO A:. AND IKAHOOLANVE, I Grove.anch -I I hv J [L I c, 7 c 0 1 I I 41 ty r \ ~ I -Me K Ul kaw~ao L A1+ t. t 4 lll\ Halku H o - o - i. 1 6 ri, -e I -1 r I t) Crater of Haleakala HI K l~ Keanafi I ~~~Ha 4I nomanu I I -9 S., c HONUAUL LI 0 u 1 - A N Of A 0 Beeiproilt Plantatto I/ Ik \Pueokahi Harbor jKui'hl Head A F I. ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Make a ( Vlupalakua AU 0"S ^V~~~~~~~~ ~ ~~~MOLOKINI T-0 0~ ^ piauu. [^V^^ ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ ~ (^uOld K A 1KINU1I^^^ KAHOOLAWE^) ^^-~^ Kealafkahiki Pt. __ — ^." - U~ I MILES 0 2 A4 6 8 10 I I^ I.."!.*,'**"':w",.'!. y^'-''': I I i i I I I II I-, ''. 11 1, I'll".1- 1: I I I I.. -,, , tx, "I I I I i i W^^ '^. *i.,*A - '.. *'10^':*:. -YILII_-_I 1W V aO1,I 157~10, ^^l^^' *J^^.N^B!.^^6 -X lilflttrii1:;^^!.^,^,!!^;!;!^^^^ 7-7 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Z2 e 't 1 ,, 1 I i. tI;ii:Av~ IAt,~~,~~~-,A t, f ", '',, I i if "?Ii, I 4 I, j,,,, I, \1 11 R, 1, a ",, I 11 1, iI g Ct,.7'r 1 Ii I jfI tIAA A r;l, " I 6-1, I*, 1, " " 1,, ', -1, ( ) (., ), 11 li, 4.'I I i I iI I,,. I I I, ".,,,,, J,, THEO UGH HA WAIL. 78 task, and could not have been completed but by the labor of many hands. We could not learn how long it had been standing, but were.informed it was built for Keawe, who reigned in Hawaii about 250 years ago. The walls and heiacs, indeed, looked-as if it might claim such antiquity; but the house of Keawe and the images must have been renewed since that time." THE ISLAND OF MA UI Lies west of Hawaii in the chain of islands, in a southeasterly direction from Honolulu, seventy-six miles distant, and contains an area of 760 square miles. It is divided into east and west Maui; the two parts being joined by a low, sandy isthmus, about five miles in width. East Maui is much the larger, containing about three-fourths of the whole island, and has a much larger proportion of arable land; its mountains being less precipitous and rocky, and its plains larger. As in ancient Rome all streets led to the capital, so here in Hawaii nei, all the inter-island water craft, whether steam or sail, diverge from Honolulu, the chief city and capital of the Kingdom. Two steamship companies, " The Wilder" and the "t Inter-Island " do most of the carrying, both of passengers and merchandise, to and from the different islands of the group with much regularity, as has been already stated. The larger steamers of both lines make their first stopping place at Lahaina on Maui. In the channel of Lahaina, and in the bay beyond, are frequently seen numbers of whales spouting water like the streams from the hose pipe of a fire engine, and sometimes throwing their massive bodies almost entirely out of their native element. Some of the voyagers here who have traveled quite extensively by sea and land, have obtained their first glimpses of whales in this channel, and it sometimes seems as though the huge creatures were going through their athletic performances for the special benefit of the passengers. LAHAINA is a picturesque but antiquated village situated near the western extremity of the island, and as first seen from the deck of the steamer in the offing is almost hidden in a grove of tropical shade 74 TO UR1STS' G UIDE trees. Here grow and fl)urish the cocoanut, breadfruit, tamarind, mango, orange, the algeroba and other trees. Some of the buildings are reminders of the old time activity of the place when it was not only the political but the commercial centre of the Kingdoum, and at a time when fleets of whaling vessels made these islands their base of supplies, and discharged their cargoes. Then it was the scene of an eager, bustling activity. There are two sugar plantations in and near by, and at Lahinaluna, about two miles back from the sea, at an elevation of about six hundred and fifty feet, is a college for the education of native Hawaiians, which is worth a visit from those who wish to become familiar with Hawaii as it is to-(lay, and to learn what is being done for the native race. The mountains here rise up somewhat abruptly out of the fruitful plain; in so-me places mound-shaped, while others become rocky and precipitous, torn by deep, shadowy ravines, almost like caverns. The writer has traveled somewhat extensively for the sake of observing natural scenery, but has never seen anymountain scenery in variety of form and coloring, beauty and greatness combined, to equal some of the mountains on these islands, and those of Maui are as fine as any of them. WAILUKU. If the traveler is going by the usual route on the steamers Kinau or W. G. Hall, his point of debarkation should be Maalaea Bay on the same side of the island, and distant from Lahaina only a few miles; otherwise he had better land at Kahului, on the north side; in either case the objective point should be Wailuku, a thriving village at the mouth of the Wailuku valley. From Maalaea Bay passengers are taken by express six miles across the isthmus road to tjie village for one dollar each. From Kahului transportation is by rail and the distance still less. Here the traveler will find the nearest stopping place to the famous Iao Valley, which is easy of access, and the trip need not occupy more than half a day; and here horses can be engaged at reasonable prices to supplement the railroad and express traveling to any part of the island. Wailuku is a place of considerable importance, contains a court house, several churches, stores, shops, etc., and a boarding house that serves the purposes of a hotel. There are three sugar plantations in the immediate vicinity, and as one of the mills is in the village, there is a good opportunity to see the process of manufac THRO UGH HA WAII. 75 ture in all its various stages, of which Hon. R. D. Walbridge is manager. Here, too, as at Lahaina, the grand mountains on the side opposite the sea, cut almost in twain by the lao Valley, form the background of as beautiful a landscape as can be found anywhere in this group. The same characteristics are apparent as at Lahaina,-for we are simply on thle other side of the great mountain mass that constitutes the interior of the western part of the island. There is no monotony to tire the eye. Sameness, however beautiful, sometimes becomes tiresome; but here one has the almost endless scenes of the kaleidoscope in the ever-changing appearance of the massive mountain barrier that has been rent into its present fantastic shapes by some of nature's grand upheavals that occurred in prehistoric ages, when from old ocean's bed was reared up these lofty spires and turrets and domes that seem as if they were the crowning points of architecture of nature's grand cathedral. When the slanting rays of the setting sun adorn these peaks and domes with phosphorescent light, while the dark, deep canons at their feet are being robed in the darkening shadows of coming night, the effect is a picture more beautiful and fascinating than the most sanguine expectant could ever have hoped to realize. All this brilliant display of nature's panorama is best seen from some of the many favorable points of observation at Wailuku. The higher mountain peaks are of course inaccessible, but magnificent views may be obtained from some of the high, mound-like elevations that are not difficult of aceess to a resolute mountain climber. And here it may be said that if one is not a mountain climber when he comes to these islands, he will be before he leaves them-the temptations are too great. From these outlooks good views may be obtained of the watery waste below, with the great blue mountains of some of the other islands in the distance, while directly in front the giant Haleakala, or Palace of the Sun, rears its lofty crest ten thousand feet above the sea. Along the base of West Maui lie four villages, Waikapu, Wailuku, Waiehu and Waihee, extending some six or eight miles, and all devoted to the cultivation of cane and the manufacture of sugar. At Wailuku is the western terminus of the Kahului railroad, which runs through Spreckelsville to Paia, a distance of about ten miles, over which trains pass daily, carrying sugar and passengers to and from the various points to Kahului, which is the port of shipment for this side of Maui. 76 TO URISTS' a UIDE THE FAMOUS IAO VALLEY. For the trip good saddle horses are required. These can be obtained without difficulty at Wailuku and at reasonable prices. These animals are hardy and, sure-footed and being accustomed to the kind of work required of them can be relied upon. This wonderful valley penetrates the mountain mass just back of Wailuku, cutting it almost in twain. At the base of the mountain chain the valley is about half a mile wide, dotted with taro patches and the plain whitewashed houses of the natives who till the fertile soil. A mountain stream (the lao river) rushes down over large boulders and its bed of smaller stones hurrying on in its way to the sea. A noticeable peculiarity is that the stones forming the bed of the stream are nearly all of a dark grey color and hard as granite so different in appearance and character from the decomposing lava on either side. Approaching the interior the valley gradually narrows, the mountain sides on either hand are more precipitous, human habitations disappear, and the whole face of nature, as far as the eye can reach, is wild and rugged in the extreme. Light fleecy clouds here and there veil the lofty mountain peaks, whose bases are at our feet. it The Needle" seems as if torn from the side of the mountain near which it stands by some mighty convulsion of nature, and points its slender finger skyward like the lofty spire of some vast cathedral. Either the internal forces of nature that caused these grand upheavals, or the action of the elements since, or both combined, have formed many curious and interesting shapes in the rock-ribbed mountains that must be seen to be appreciated. Caves, deep gorges, fissures and overhanging cliffs are all around. The native horses accustomed to mountain climbing are as sure-footed as goats and pick their way carefully over the rocky bed of the stream that must needs be forded several times before the end of exploration in lao Valley is reached; for beyond ", the needle" are several crossings before we come to an oval depression in the valley whose floor is below the level of the sea. It is supposed to be an old crater. Many speculations are rife concerning it, so unlike is it from anything to be seen elsewhere on the islands or perhaps in the world, but its present rugged grandeur, unique and interesting as it is, cannot be disputed, leading one as it does to pause and admire the infinite skill of the Great THS0PO C1H 1AA WAilt 7? Architect. The surface of these lava mountains is in an adVanced state of decomposition and the abundant moisture has Induced vegetable growth so that even the most precipitous of them are clothed with rich verdue to their very tops. Of course there are many places where no form of vegetable life can be sustained, and there the red soil formed by the decomposed lava in almost every shade forms a pleasing contrast to the dark green foliage by which it i, surrounded. It was here in Iao Valley that a great battle was fought between Kamehameha the First and the then Chief of Maui Kaliani Kauikeaouliilunalilo by name (surnamed Kiwalo on account of a peculiarity in his walk), Who opposed the marriage of his daughter, Keopuolani Kai, with Kamehameha, who accordingly fought for her possession. He was assisted by John Young, who had taught his people the use of fire-arms, which they used on the occasion with such effect that the stream was blocked with the bodies of the slain. Kamehameha was completely victorious, and carried off his bride in triumph, He sought her not because of beauty, for she Was not at all beautiful, but because she was of noble descent. The above facts in regard to the battle and its cause were furnished to the writer by His Majesty Kalakaua, who also stated that the popular story as to the origin of that particular battle is erroneous. Iao Valley is also interesting as being the ancient burial place of the Kings and Chiefs of this island kingdom, and many of these tombs of the long ago may now be seen; but they are interesting chiefly because of the memories they revive of ancient Hawaiian customs and the once all potent and absolute monarchial government. They are still sacred to the Hawaiian people who approach them with awe and with the observance of curious superstitious rites. RUINS OF HEATHEN TEMPLES. Near the village of Wailuku at the extreme seaward end of a ridge of coral and sand that runs from the mountain out to Within perhaps half a mile from the sea, is the ruin of an ancient Heiau or Hawaiian Temple. The ruin of it is complete so much so that in some places only the faintest traces of the foundation walls can be found, but on one side the whole massive foundations of the great building can be seen, and clearly indicate that the walls were constructed of unhewn stone without mortar and TO UPISTS' a UID! that they were at least ten feet thick at the bottom, but they were probably sloping so that they were no more than three or four at the top. How high they were we have no means of knowing, but no doubt they were in proportion with the great area which must have been at least one hundred and twenty by three hundred feet. On one side about half way from end to end are distinguishable the foundation l of what was once no doubt the great altar of sacrifice flanked on either side by carved representa. tions of their principal deities hewn from stone. Some of the foundation stones are of great size; and the structure itself when completed must have been a marvelous exhibition of tl-e patience and ingenity of its builders; for we must remember that it was constructed by men who had no knowledge whatever of mechani. cal arts and no tools of iron or steel. AN ANCIENT HAWAIIAN. A visit, to any of the more intelligent of the native Hawaiians of riper years can but be interesting to one unacquainted with Hawaiian life. There is now living in the outskirts of Wailuku an old patriarch by the name of Kahale. His hair and beard are snowy white but a simple glance at him is sufficient to show that he is intelligent and his conversation soon indicates that he is well versed in the manners and customs, traditions and govern. ment of his ancestors. He can tell you of the times when human sacrifices formed a part of their ghastly and inhuman rites; when the tabu (forbidden) erected its iron barrier between the people and their most sacred rights; when the King's person was sacred, and to step in his shadow as he passed was a criminal offense punishable by instant death. It is interesting to read about these things; but much more interesting to talk with one who during his lifetime has stepped across the line that separated these barbarisms from the present civilization. The exterior of his home reminds one of a country farm house in the United States. The interior is like the modern white man's dwelling of the well-to-do middle class. The furniture and ornaments tastily and even artistically arranged, and many curious antique specimens of ancient Hawaiian handicraft that carry the mind back to the days of Captain Cook. Among other things a very old feather helmet that was once the property of a remote ancestor of the present owner, who was one of Maui's famous chiefs. Also some large sheets of tapa (Hawaiian cloth) made from the THR 0 UGH HA WAII. 79 bark of native trees, which is beaten out thin so as to resemble coarse paper. It is quite strong and durable, some of it colored in bright colors, very pleasing to the eye. There are also some fish hooks ingeniously formed from a kind of shell. A large cabinet is filled with beautiful shells, corals, and other natural curiosities which have been gathered on the shores of these islands. TRIP TO HALEAKALA. Parties wishing to make the ascent to the summit of the famous Palace of the Sun," can start either from Wailuku, Paia or Makawao, but the best place to obtain horses for the trip is probably Paia, the terminus of the Maui Railroad. It can easily be reached by rail, and when the animals are previously engaged, there is usually not much delay in starting. From this point it is but fifteen miles to the summit, and if necessary, a part of this distance can be done in carriages, as there is a good carriage road to Makawao Seminary, six miles from Paia. This road leads through a fertile district, and among some of the most productive sugar plantations on the islands. The district is almost bare of trees except those that have been planted, which are thrifty and grow with great rapidity. This land all requires irrigation to make it productive, but wherever the irrigating ditch and the planters' enterprise have gone there are found the luxuriant cane fields, which are not only beautiful in themselves, but are the silent though ever present witnesses to the wonderful fertility of the soil. During the ride one passes through a region where no doubt nearly all the staple products of both the torrid and temperate zones could profitably be raised. But in the present embryonic condition of agriculture in the country, sugar is the great staple in all the lowlands that are adapted to its growth, while the rocky and broken lands on the lower levels and all the great area of the higher altitudes that are too cool for the profitable pro. duction of sugar are the pasture grounds of great herds of cattle and horses. MAKAWAO SEMINARY. The traveler should stop and visit this school. The principal, Miss Carpenter, will be glad to explain to visitors the workings of the various departments. A large number of native girls are here taught, boarded and lodged, at very small expense. The 80 TUURITS' G UIDB institution is a Godsend- to those of the Hawaiian people who wish to educate their children. The school buildings are located at an elevation of about three thousand feet, where the temperature is much cooler than in the region below. We are now above the line of profitable cane growing and are surrounded on all sides, above, below, on the right and on the left, by an immense area of luxuriant pasture land, where thousands and tens of thousands of cattle and horses thrive and fatten on the sweet and abundant grass. We have already passed several churches, native and foreign, on our way, one of them a new, tasty, and commodious building with well kept grounds. The view from the seminary and its vicirity is simply entrancing. Above is the frowning crest of Haleakala; away in the distance in the opposite direction, capped here and there with snowy clouds, the blue slender peaks of the mountains of West Maui, flanked on the right by the restless sea; while between are the great plantations, each with its centre of smoking chimneys marking the site of its sugar mill, surrounded with a little village of snow-white houses. OFF FOR OLINDA. We will assume that the tourists have gone ere this armed with a letter of introduction to Hon. Henry Baldwin, of Haiku, and manager of Hamakuapoko Plantation, and that he, with his accustomed disposition to oblige, has given them the keys to Olinda, his charming mountain retreat, three miles further up on the mountain side, and only six below the edge of the most wonderful extinct crater in the world. We assume, also, that the company have been provident enough to provide themselves with at least three days' rations, and that they have them with them packed on a horse or mule, for whatever the means of travel so far, it is now necessary to accomplish the remaining distance on horseback. A guide is not necessary, still it is better to have one; without one, it is necessary to get directions at the Seminary or at the dwellings near by, else the diverging cattle-paths in the great pasture into which you now plunge may mislead. The way is now over a somewhat steeper incline than before, but is not rocky, and the ascent is still so gradual that it is not at all difficult, and is agreeably disappointing to the ordinary conception of mountain climbing. The surface of the great lava mountain has decomposed and formed a rich soil covered with grass; HVO ~ 'OIj O~ 'VIlfA IINIA\.1 M I ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~' ~ ~ ~..... I TIRO UGHT A WAII. 81 but this region, like that below, is almost destitute of trees. Even the rocky ravines on either side of our pathway are covered on their steep sides with this-the universal product of the country. Arrived at Olinda, there is abundant pasturage for the horses in an enclosure, so that they can be turned loose with the comfortable assurance that they can be found when wanted. Here is a comfortable house of ten rooms, furnished from floor to ceiling with everything necessary to the comfort and pleasure of the occupants. There are stoves, beds and bedding, and even lamps in their places, cooking utensils and table dishes. A little extra clothing is needed, and perhaps a fire in the little sitting-room stove, for we are at least 6000 feet above the sea. The grounds are decorated with flowering plants, and vines creep up the veranda-posts. It is best to spend a part of the night here, not only because it is much more comfortable than camping out in the open air, but to become accustomed by degrees to the rarified atmosphere of a high altitude. Perhaps most persons would feel no inconvenience in a sudden change to a height of 10,000 feet, but there are some who would. The most susceptible would find no trouble by following the course we have indicated. If you wish to see the sunrise from the summit, you should be ready to start as early as 2 o'clock in the morning, as your horses will go at a slow pace, and in some of the steeper portions will want to stop occasionally to take breath. The old bridle-path from Olinda has recently been improved, and is not difficult to follow even by the dim light of the stars. From Olinda there are no diverging paths to mislead, and the road is plainly outlined. This part of the journey too is, as a rule, still more steep than either of the two preceding sections; but even here the traveler will be agreeably surprised to find no very steep or difficult places, for Haleakala is an immense mound-shaped mass, and to reach the height of its topmost crest we have been climbing all the way from the sea, ARRIVING AT THE TOP, And looking down into the vast pit, what a scene suddenly bursts upon the vision. Imagine, if you can, yourself standing on the edge of this by far the largest crater in the world, and looking down more than two thousand feet into the abyss below, its sides almost perpendicular, and its diameter seven and a half miles. 6 TO URISTS' G UIDE From its uneven floor rise fourteen distinct cones, or hills, some of them 600 or 700 feet in height, but, from where you stand, they appear like insignificant mounds of scoria, though the funnel-shaped tops of some of them can be distinctly seen. On the east and north are two enormous gaps. What must have been the scene when this mighty mountain was thus rent —a great sea of molten fire more than seven miles in diameter rushing, roaring, seething, ever rising higher and still higher as the pent-up forces of the internal world crowd the yielding mass of liquid fire out from its depths. Then there comes a time when the rock-bound rim of the vast crater can no longer withstand the mighty pressure of millions of tons of molten fre rolling and surging against its walls, and then with a roar like that of all the thunders of heaven's artillery, at once exploded, the mountain bursts, and a mighty river of fire rushes with terrible velocity down the mountain slope to the sea. Probably nothing more grand or impressive has ever happened on this planet, nor anything executed on so grand a scale. DESCRIPTION OF THE GREAT CRATER. It is almost impossible to realize the great area of the crater, the air is so clear at this high altitude, but Professor W. D. Alexander, who made the government surveys, is authority for the statement that the greatest diameter is seven and a half miles, and its circumference nearly twenty. The whole of New York city, below Central Park, could be buried within its depths, and the highest of its lofty church spires would be but toys by the side of its cones-themselves craters within the towering walls of the one mighty volcanic opening-in comparison with which the largest of the other great craters of the world are but as pigmies by the side of a giant. Gradually as you gaze, enchained, longer and still longer at this, the most stupendous 'of nature's works, the mind becomes more and more impressed with the immensity of this unequalled crater. Then, perhaps, will be enacted the cloud scene to give still greater variety to the already wonderful display of magnificent scenes within the range of vision. Daily, great masses of clouds roll in through the gaps we have mentioned, until the whole vast space of more than sixteen square miles is filled with the moving mass of billowy clouds. Like moving masses of living things, they crowd in through the immense doors of the vast amphitheater as though TZf?0 UGH HA WAh 113 83 the storm-god had marshaled his forces here for some great onslaught upon earth's fastnesses. We are but mere specks in the ocean of material things, and yet from our eirie crag so far above it, all looking down upon the march.ing columns of cloud armies, we fancy we have been appointed to review the grand pageant wherein the storm king had assembled all the forces at his command. In its magnificent grandeur, this is the most impressive spectacle ever witnessed. Niagara always proclaims its irresistible:power in the thunderous tones of its unceasing roar, in its awful sublimity, but still is ever the same; the gigantic rocks of the Yosemite always look down from their lofty summit upon the awe-struck man at their feet with the same frown; but Haleakala anon marshals the hosts of the storm king in its capacious amphitheater, and then drives them out again, flooding the whole,of her rocky area with the golden light of the god of day, as if to show that the Palace of the Sun could outdo all others in the splendor of her achievements and the variety of her panoramic,displays. At first you can see nothing but the great crater and The changing scenes being enacted within it. There is so much to see, you are enchailned., spell-bound, and lost to all else save the 'one entrancing series of spectacles in the heart of the great mountain, and again you fall to speculating about the once-throbbing, beating, pulsing, living Hercules, whose life-blood was liquid fire, and whose breath was great clouds of sulphurous smoke. Now,you see no sign of blood or breath —not even a tremble of the mountain mass-and yet the question comes': is the giant really dlead or sleeping? And will he rouse himself some day with a great shake of his massive form and startle the sight-seers who shall come after us with his thunderous roar, his fiery breath and,his devastating river of liquid fire? Only He who holds the secrets of the unseen depths of the internal world in His grasp can answer. f OTHER VIEWS PROM THE SUMMIT. But dismissing these speculations, you look out and around for the other interesting sights aside from and beyond the great mountain. Away in the distance to the southeast on Hawaii are the blue summits of the Kohala mountains, Mauna Loa and Hualalai, and the still higher crest of Mauna Kea, covered with a helmet of glistening snoW. To the westward are the slender peaks of the mountains of West Maui, veiled here and there with many 84 8to uMps Ts' 6 (IDP cloudlets almost as white as the snow on the crest of Mauna fKea, beyond are the rock-bound coasts of Molokai, while still farther away almost in the same direction Oahu breaks the line of horizon,. a dull, dark mass against the'sky. Lanai rises up out of the water and asserts herself nearer by and farther to the westward. Ka-. hoolawe is nearer still in a south-westerly direction. In the nearer northwest, soiretimes half-hidden by the clouds below, are the plains we have left. There is an indescribable beauty in the soft sunlight as it bathes the rare atmosphere above, arid reflects on the fleecy clouds floating around this mountain that is most delightful. When one has seen it all, and gone away, there is a feeling that to memory's treasury has been added another of the( world's greatest wonders. Most parties visiting Maui for pleasure, and having abandance of time, generally spend a few days at Ofinda. It is a beautiful resort, and the ever-changing cloud scenes above, below and in the distance, are an unvarying source of pleasure. If the trip can, be made when the moon is at or near its full, so much the better, It is then that the wonderful glory of the cloud scenes by night are seen at their brightest and best, while the setting and rising of both moon and sun are pictures that will never be forgotten. Descending the mountain, tourists return to Pala, where their, animals are left, and thence by rail to Sprecklesville, some five miles distant, where is located the plantation of the Hawaiian Commercial Company, of which Mr. H. Morrison is the superintendant. As this is THE, LARGEST SUtGAR ESTATE IN TffIE WORLY, A full description of it, in all the branches of its extensive works, will be of interest to' many engaged in the stgar industry, as well as illustrating the magnitude of a first class sugar estate. The capital invested in it is owned chiefly in the United Sta-tes. On the sandy isthmus connecting East and West Maui, and on a plainr which was formerly an arid desert, where neithfier a tree, and scarcely a blade of grass could formerly be found, can' now be seen green pastures, beautiful flower gardensf avenues of trees, and twelve thousand acres of growing sugar caner and a sugar mill capable of manufacturing 109 to 120 tons of sugar pert day. This great change has been brought about by storing the rair* agifts of the clouds whiclh have fallenr on tbarre rocks. forty m4iles THtO UGH HA WAII. 86 distant, which for numberless ages have run to waste in the sea below. The work of transferring this water from the mountains to these fertile plains was an immeInse undertaking, and it is by far the grandest piece of engineering that these islands can boast. Some idea of its magnitude may be learned from the fact that it took the best engineering talent that could be secured to construct it. The difficulties to be surmounted were numberless. First, there were thirty gulches to cross, some of them being over 2000 feet wide and 400 feet deep, and it took for this purpose alone, over 21,000 feet of forty-two inch pipe. There are also twenty-eight tunnels, three by eight feet, cut through solid rock, some of them being 500 feet long. There are five reservoirs, the largest capable of holding forty million cubic feet MrA |., '' '.. ^^W.. ' / ~ N..'\/.........!.. /.. f................- '.....w.......:KAUTAI[N OF,,, -K 0 0 A:. W.A., V:.. -..F'. 't, -....-";.....o '"... M O 1 1 ^ 6.A. Wok<- \..^.. I i' 'i.iVt. K t It THROUGI HA WAII. 105 MAKAWELI, A famous mountain resort, is about fifteen miles inland from Waimea, and at an elevation of three thousand feet above the sea. The temperature is like that of the northern part of the United States, and the change from the warm valley of Waimea is very marked. Picturesque cliffs, rushing waterfalls, yawning canons and abrupt precipices meet the traveler on all sides. A lofty barrier of nearly perpendicular cliffs prevents further progress on this the western side of the island, and the tourist returns to Lihue, and then with fresh h6rses on to the WAILITA FALLS. Five miles from Lihue, over a road winding through populous valleys, between blooming cane-fields, and past wavy grass covered hills, where droves of cattle are continually grazing, a loud, roaring sound breaks the surrounding stillness, and without other sign or warning, the Falls of Wailua greet the eyes of the tourist. The river is about seventy feet wide, and a gorge 180 feet in depth catches the water in its lava basin, and tosses the spray many feet up into the air. The sun shining into the gulch tints the water with rainbow colors, and a feeling of awe steals over one as the deafening roar of the rushing, falling cataract continues in an unbroken sound. As one notes the gorge into which the river falls, the luxuriance of the foliage therein attracts much attention. Dense masses of ferns cling to every available nook, and great trees more than half concealed by creeping vines loom up from the depths below. Banana trees, tended only by the hands of Dame Nature, attain a great height here, while the plain from which one gazes into the shadowy valley beneath is thickly covered with guava trees, whose yellow fruit is as delicious to the taste as its appearance amid the green branches of the trees is beautiful to the eye. Leaving the falls, the traveler has the choice of two roads to go to KAPAA. The inland road, though the most romantic, for it passes through a lovely country, over undulating hills, and into wonderfully fertile valleys, can be made only on horseback, and in the company of a guide. The other road takes the tourist past Hanamaulu, a settlement composed chiefly of the laborers employed in the Hanamaulu sugar mill, past the mill itself, past the resi 106 TO URISTS' GUIDE dence of the Hon. Albert Wilcox, the manager of the mill, and on between dense hau trees, until the mouth of the Wailua is reached. The river here where it empties into the sea is about sixty yards wide, and has a depth of twenty fathoms. A rude ferry takes man and beast across in a few moments, and then there is an easy, pleasant road in full view of the sea, which can be seen breaking against the coral and lava reefs, the force of the concussion often sending the waves twenty and thirty feet up into the air. Soon a tall chimney attracts the observer's notice, and this is all that remains of the old Kapaa sugar mill. Many pretty little cottages mark the road, and the well kept gardens and vegetable plats make a cheerful view. Two miles from here, and ten from Lihue, is the village of KEALIA, Noted for its large sugar mill, managed by Col. Z. S. Spalding, and the handsome residence of this gentleman; for its plantation store, the largest on Kauai, in charge of Mr. Fairchild, whose hospitable home is in close proximity, and its roomy hotel, where good accommodations can be had at very reasonable rates. The mill, which has every modern improvement, including the lately discovered Diffusion Process, is worthy a visit of inspection, and the courteous manner in which strangers are shown around and their many questions answered, makes it a pleasure to wander through it. On past acres of cane fields, which owing to their graceful beauty never become a monotonous sight, over hill and dale, Anahola is reached, a tiny hamlet in a deep valley, where mango, kukui, and cocoanut trees abound. A bend in the road shows us a great mountain peak close to the sea. Its bare, rugged sides are boldly outlined against the heavens, and about 500 feet from the base, is a great fissure in its side, through which one can see the horizon beyond. This peak is MOUNT KALALEA, Where (the natives tell us), many years ago, a famous warrior of great stature and strength fought with Kauahoa, the giant of Hanalei. Kauahoa, finding no suitable weapon with which to attack his adversary, who had come upon him suddenly, tore up a great koa tree, roots and all, from an adjacent forest, and hurled it at Kawelo. The latter dodged the tree, and then threw his THRO UG HAWAII. 107 massive spear at Kauahoa, literally dividing his body in twain, and the force with which the missile had been sent drove it through the mountain side, and made this tunnel-like aperture. Aside from the romance, it is a remarkable gap, which cannot fail to call the attention of the traveler to its traditional origin. As the tourist proceeds, the Kahilikolo trees are pointed out to him, of which the trunks cannot be found, as they grow like mammoth vines. On, past the place where the great koa forests were, whose remains can be seen, and where the natives still gather the mokihana berries, of which they make wreaths which are highly prized for their fragrance, for they retain their sweet perfume for years, regardless of climatic influences.. Now great forests on both sides of the road, and through which the traveler passes, make him pause for a moment to note the immense kukui (candle-nut) trees, which are so dense that no stranger should venture into the grove alone. On the left hand, far beyond the trees, is the residence of Mr. Bertelmann, the owner of a large cattle ranch. A short drive, and the tourist has reached KILAUEA, Twenty-seven miles from Lihue, where there is a mill, managed by Mr. R. A. Macfie, a plantation store and a fine hotel.* Just outside of Kilauea is the beautiful Kalihiwai valley, whose fertile lands are watered by the river of the same name. A short sail up the river, whose banks are shaded by large trees, a beautiful little cascade is disclosed, while further inland is another and still another, which though smaller, vie in beauty with many larger waterfalls. HANALEI Is one of the most tropical districts on the island, because of the many mountain streams which traverse it. The view from the plateau is unsurpassed. The wide Hanalei valley, with its beautiful river of the same name, can scarcely be equaled for loveliness. The mountains in the distance noted, not so much for their height as for their peculiar formation, and their distinctive, broken, curved and jagged peaks, throw their wierd shadows over a vale luxurious with forest growths. The olive, lemon, orange and mango trees abound, while the most brilliant flowers, the passion-vine, the florabunda, the flaming cactus and the wondrously beautiful magnolia, varigate the scene, from the moun 108 TO URISTSP G UIDE tains to the sea-shore. The view from the anchorage in the harbor has been pronounced by travelers to be one of the finest in the world. Mr. Koelling, the genial manager of the mill, is very kind to travelers, and Kahina, a resident of the village, has a pleasant house, and will accommodate tourists with beds and board. About two miles further on, the LUMAHAI VALLEY, Sleeping between the great mountain ridges, is disclosed. It is like the dream of a poet or a painter, and few valleys in the world can excel it in beauty. The rice fields laid out in rectangular plats, each*one surrounded by a border of grassy soil, about two feet wide, and covered with water, look like mammoth pictures protected by glass, and enclosed in glossy green frames, as we view them from above. Here, as on the whole drive, the mountain chains form a panorama-like view, changing their aspect at each bend of the road, and rarely is the sea, with its wondrously colored waters, hidden from view. We pass through the great lauhala (pandanus) forests, and reach the WAINIHA RIVER. This is crossed by means of a ferry, and a good view of the valley as it curves inland can be obtained. Near this river is a crag, formed like an immense tongue and palate, which juts out into the sea. This point, Kuumaka by name, is famous in Hawaiian lore as the spot where a shark ate two of the high-chiefs. THE WONDERFUL CAVES, WAIOKANALOA AND WAIOKAPALAE, Are about ten miles from Hanalei. In the early days of Hawaiian history, it is said, a brother and sister came from a foreign land, in order to supply the people with water, of which there was a great dearth. They came to a mountain, and determined to dig into its side until water would be discovered. Kanaloa, the brother, selected a spot where he thought he would find water, and after digging a long time detected a lake, whose waters he caused to flow over the land, and to this day the taro patches are irrigated from this source. Visitors are escorted into the arched entrance, and to the lake within. Here the natives light torches, and take the tourist for a row upon the water, which is cold and clear and fresh. At the entrance the depth of the water is fortytwo feet, though further in It is said that no bottom has been found. TIR0 UGIt A WA I. 109 A strange sensation, a combination of awe and fear, creeps over one as daylight is left behind, and the frail bark glides into the blackness of night, and seemingly into the very bowels of the earth. The black waters reflect the ruddy glare of the torches, and the flickering flames throw strangely contorted shadows upon the rocky sides and ceiling of the cavern, while the half-nude forms of the rowers look weird and unearthly. Even the most frivolous scarcely speak a word, and then only in the faintest whisper, and it is with a longdrawn breath that the traveler steps out of the darkness into the light, but also with an impression that lasts for life. The other cave, which was dug by Kapalae, has also an arched entrance, and though much smaller than the first cave, contains a lake whose waters are ever covered by a thin film. There is a third cave, known as the it Dry Cave," which one can enter and walk through, or can ride into on horseback. A few seconds walk into its depths brings one beyond the reach of daylight, and no one has ever ventured further within its gloomy recesses. A foreigner could not find his way out, and a native could not be persuaded to enter, because it is said that a gigantic moo (dragon) guards the cave. We are told that the ancient highchiefs of Kauai were buried there, far under the mountain, and that many priceless feather cloaks and feather helmets might be found. In speaking of the largest cave, the Hawaiian Spectator said: "t Its entrance is gothic, from twenty to thirty feet high, and as wide. The entrance to the second compartment (or lake), is also gothic, and one half as large as the other opening. The first chamber is about 160 feet long, 100 feet wide, and sixty feet high, the whole forming a beautiful arch." NAPALI. For twenty miles along the northwestern coast of Kauai there extends a series of ridges, none less than 800 feet high, and many nearly 1500 feet, terminating In a bluff that is unrivalled in majesty. Except for a very narrow, dangerous foot-path, with yawning abysses on each side, this bluff is impassable. Innumerable streams, forming wonderful cascades as they leap hundreds of feet in their tempestous descent, pour over this bluff in the rainy season, and become mist before they reach the ocean. Beyond the raging surge, unbroken by any protecting reef, dashes against the precipitous walls of rock. The Mikahala on her circuit 110.TO UsISTs' GUaIDE trips sails within 400 yards of these palisades, which are interrupted only by an ancient retreat of the chiefs at Mllolii, with its fortified fish pond and impregnable valley, accessible from the land only by a pole ladder. With the exception of the Hanapepe Falls, the tourist can see all that has been described from Wednesday morning until Saturday evening, when the steamer returns to Honolulu. If, however, he has time and the inclination to remain another Week, there are many points of interest that can tempt him to make a longer stay, sights and scenes that can never be forgotten. MT. WAIALEALE, Between Lihue and Koloa the country is an ever-shifting panorama of hills and valleys, streamlets and dells. To the left the rugged peak of Hoary Head rises, cut clear as a silhouette against the blue sky, while smaller mountains north and south of it form a continuous chain. To the right Mt. Waialeale, the central peak and pride of Kauai, rears his massive head above the summits of the neighboring peaks. Its sides are precipitous, and cascades and waterfalls abound. Its foliage forms a brilliant contrast to some of the neighboring hills, which too plainly show their volcanic origin. Rare ferns and plants are found among the undergrowth, and many land shells may be gathered there. An excursion to the summit is considered a rare feat, for one must go the major part of the distance on foot, and the exposure and consequent fatigue is very great, but when the top is reached, one Is well repaid. At the summit is a clear lake of fresh water, and from its banks one can overlook the Whole island of Kauai, "t from the center way round to the sea." This trip will take about three days, for one night is usually spent on the mountain side, and another near the top. Forming one of the foothills of Waialeale is KILOHANA, A crater that has been extinct thousands of years. To reach the edge of the crater, the tourist rides through an extensive forest of ohia (mountain-apple) trees, whose voluptous foliage casts a perpetual twilight over everything. Whoever has once seen these trees, with their glossy dark green leaves, their luxuriant, feathery~ rose-colored blossoms, and the vivid scarlet fruit, will not soon forget the beautiful sight. TRO UGH HA WAII. ll These woods lead to a gap in the side of the crater, and one can descend a slightly precipitous incline, either on horseback or on foot. The floor of the pit is usually very muddy, is alwa ys damp, and is a tangled forest, wherein one could easily be lost. Great trees fifty and sixty feet high, and their trunks covered with mosses, lichens, ferns and vines, give safe retreat to many varieties of birds, which can be easily heard chirping and singing, but they are so timid they can rarely be seen. Here is where the delicate lace fern grows in wild abandon, Kilohana was the safety valve of Waialeale, and it is said that in the distant ages Pele made her home here, and after the volcanic fires of Kauai were all burnt out, she repaired to Haleakala, on Maui, and finally to Kilauea, the great volcano of Hawaii. The extensive tree-covered valleys back of Kilohana, the homes of wild cattle and boars, are well adapted for hunting grounds, and with tents, provisions and guides, a party can have a merry time for a few days. WAILUA RIVER. Starting Where the river meets the ocean, a sail up the Wailua, winding in and out through wooded banks, past giant vines, which growing over the tall trunks of dead trees form grotesque figures, in between palis, or precipices nearly 2000 feet high, brings the tourist to the spot where two huge monuments of rock are seen, one on each side of the river. The natives tell a Hero and Leander story about them. In olden times this valley was well populated (as is indicated at present by ruins of grass huts and dried taro patches), and a youth and maiden who loved each other dwelt on opposite sides of the river. The parents were opposed to the match, and forbade all communication. The youth, nothing daunted, swam across the river each evening after dark, to visit his love. One night, as he was swimming over, a sudden squall arose, and though the girl tried to motion him back, he mistook her gestures, and was dashed on the rocks, and instantly killed. The maiden was petrified with horror, and this large monument marks the spot where she stood, while on the other side the gods raised the pile of rocks in memory of her lover. A trip to KIPUKAI, Across the mountains, eight miles from Lihue, will give the tourist an opportunity to gather beautiful shells, to pick up skulls which are so perfect that not a single tooth is missing, and above all to see a wondrous bit of nature's work. 112 TO URISTS' G UIDE The road, which is usually traversed on horseback, though a carriage can easily be driven to the base of the mountain, passes through a deep gorge, dotted with little cottages, each with its banana patch, mango trees, and tiny canal of water, then over rising ground, until in a grassy nook a starch mill is discovered, whose wheel is rapidly turned by a picturesque waterfall. A little further on, the traveler pauses at the top of a steep hill, to gaze at the marvellous beauty of the valley below. The Hulaia river, which was mentioned as flowing beneath the bridge, half way between Lihue and Koloa, rolls here as a broadened stream, and gradually widens until it empties into the sea. The valley bears signs of a past as well as a present population. The remains of many grass huts can be seen, nestled 'neath the sheltering boughs of giant trees, and in close proximity the neatly whitewashed, cottages of this generation. Banana plantations, rice fields, taro patches, and cocoanut, guava and orange trees form a constant variation in the landscape. The traveler descends into the valley, fords the river in a place where the water is shallow, and soon reaches the mountain path. Through dense shrubbery, beneath the branches of over-hanging trees, over a tortuous trail, which, though rough, is not dangerous, the top is soon gained, and with it a superb view. Far as the eye can reach are hills and valleys decked with the most beautiful foliage. At our feet lies the village of Lihue, with its suburbs, way off in the distance Kapaa can be seen, and sometimes Kilauea, Mt. Waialeale, Mt. Kalalea, and Hoary Head tower in majestic grandeur around us. After a short rest, the descent is made on the other side of the mountain. Kipukai is at its base. It has the appearance of an ancient circular crater, with one segment of its arc broken away. The valley basin is like a vast amphitheatre, surrounded by a gigantic wall of mountains, none less than 1500 feet high. This wall extends around seven eighths of the basin, while the other eighth opens into the ocean. In some places great lava rocks form a boundary line between land and sea, and their peculiar forms have given them such names as ", The Crocodile," " The Turtle," etc. In the heavy swell of the sea, the breakers dash against these barriers with a terrific noise, and a violence which sends the spray like a fountain into the air, to a height of nearly 100 feet. In the White sand of the beach, bleached by the sun and the waves of LIEU VILLAGE KAUAI. 0 - - I I. I., I 11 - I - - I THRO UGH HA WAII. 113 centuries, can be found the skulls and bones of innumerable Hawaiian warriors. Near the foot of one of the mountains stands the seaside residence of Hon. W. H. Ricej and the many outbuildings make it appear quite a settlement. In the side of the mountain, as the traveler descends, a large well can be seen, famed in Hawaiian song and story. They tell how Kamapuaa, one of the kings of Oahu, half man and half hog, came to Kipukai, landed on a cliff, which is pointed out to the tourist, with the wish to find the famous spring and drink of its waters. Two goddesses guarded the fountain, and for mischief covered it over with branches and stone, and hid themselves near by. Kamapuaa sought a long time, and finally discovered the place. As he cleared away the rubbish, and bent over to quench his thirst, in the depths of the clear water he saw the reflection of two lovely maidens. He observed that they were not far away, but when he addressed them, they ridiculed him. Not knowing that they were goddesses in the form of maidens, and angered by their taunts, he seized them in his powerful grasp, and threw them across the valley. They fell on the top of one of the lower ridges, and were changed to stone; their forms are distinctly seen. NIIHAU, Once a populous island, southwest of Kauai, can be reached by the steamer Mikahala, or the tourist can be rowed there from Waimea in a whaleboat. Niihau is used as a sheep ranch, and is the property of Mr. F. Sinclair. Very beautiful shells are found on the beach, and a red seed, which at a distance resembles a coral bead, grows there. The natives gather both shells and seeds, string them into necklaces, and get a good price for them from other natives as well as from foreigners. This island was formerly noted for its soft and delicate mats known as "Niihau mats," woven from a fine grass, which grows only on it, and which resembles the Guayaquil grass, of which the Panama hats are made. Some of these mats were woven in colors, and others had mottoes. They have become extremely rare, and like genuine " Panawa hats" are very highly prized. The price was formerly from five to ten dollars apiece, but of late years, since the industry was given up, most exorbitant prices have been obtained. 8 TO URISTS' GUIDE OFF FOR HONOLULU. HOW TO GET THERE-THE SEVEN DAYS' VOYAGE FROM SAN FRANCISCO-SIGHTS OF THE CITY AND ITS PEOPLE. EXPERIENCE OF A TOURIST, Would your readers like to know how to get to Hawaii? There are many Bostonians that will be raising the question about this time, where shall we spend the winter? If they want a new experience, new scenes, new life, let them go to this Paradise of the Pacific. The journey from Boston to San Francisco is an every-day matter-so well known that it needs no. description. At San Francisco, they will find a fine line of large 3000-ton ocean steamers, which run to the Hawaiian Islands and on to Australia. The steamers of Mr. J. D. Spreckels & Brothers are splendid specimens of American iron ship-building, constructed at Philadelphia of the best material and especially designed for the Pacific Ocean travel. They are large, roomy and fitted up with all the modern conveniences. The staterooms are provided with electric lights and call-bells. The social hall, smoking-rooms and great dining saloons are equal to the best of steamers, comfort and luxury being admirably combined. The poet Howitt writes: "Now, if you love the Southern Sea And pleasant summer weather, Come, let us mount this gallant ship And sail away together." With such an invitation the traveler bids good-by to San Francisco, passing down her great bay, out through the Golden Gate that guards the entrance, over," the bar," that generally has a roll on for every one, whether prohibitionist or partaker, and out upon the deep blue sea. We will not enlarge much over our first twenty-four hours of sea experience. We fear that our words would fail to utter them 6 TRRO UGH HA WAII. 115 as they came up from the depths. There is nothing romantic about mal de mer, sung or unsung. The second day out of port we find a most delightful change; the cold coast winds, with their white-capped waves chasing one another as if hurrying down to the warm breath of the tropic breeze, are left behind. There has come a very perceptible change over sea and sky. The waters become more placid, more deeply blue; the steamer cuts her way along on mote even keel, the sky is softer, the air more balmy and the sweet influence of summer seas inviting. THE SMOOTH PACIFIC. The Pacific well deserves its name, and the hours fly by all too quickly, for travelers, yielding to the enticements of the hour, find pleasure in social intercourse of the saloon, in the promenades on the white decks, or in the witching figures of the dance. Old and young alike join in the gratification of the joyousness of the occasion. If, perchance, the moon comes to its full, there is such a flood of golden light shed over the sea as to make one think it is under the spell of some great enchanter-as it truly is. For He hath made it to rule the night. The word of a traveler for it, the last night on board the steamer, while full of pleasure and with all the bright anticipations of a new to-morrow, is not without a tinge of sadness at the thought of separations. I sailed beneath a burning sun, By coral reefs and isles of balm, Where orange groves and silvery palm By faint spice winds were gently fanned, Until I reached a tropic land. Promptly on time, seven days from our losing sight of the coast of California, the mountain peaks of the Hawaiian Islands come in view. If the atmosphere is clear we may see Hawaii, one hundred miles away. Our good ship is headed for Oahu, the island on which is Honolulu, the capital city. As we draw nearer the land we can catch glimpses of the rocky, precipitous coast. FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE ISLANDS. Perhaps a line of distant waterfalls, like silver threads on a green velvet curtain; perhaps the volcanic cloud over the great crater, or may be, rising high above the clouds, the lofty peak ot Haleakala (Palace of the Sun), rising in a majestic sweep from 116 TO UREISTS' G UIDE the surf-bordered beach to an elevation of ten thousand feet. This great inountain has the largest known extinct crater on this world of ours-with a circumference of over thirty miles, and a depth of over twenty-five hundred feet. Sailing past the windward side of the Island of Molokai, we catch a glimpse of a spot-the like of which there is not another in any land we know of-the leper settlement, where near a thousand of these poor unfortunates are living, and dying while they live. Let us breathe a prayer of pity, and be thankful that a humane Government is doing all it can for them. With a fair trade wind that follows fast, we near our destined port, but must admit to a disappointment at first. Are these the tropic islands? The home of. Flora? The brown cones of old lava, the peaks of the high mountains, the lava flows, give a rather dreary aspect from the distance. But like the changing of a slide on the stereopticon, we have rounded the bold headland of Diamond Hill-and what a change. At our near right, bordering the sea, we see the tufted palm, the white sands of the beach, while over a grassy plain we get vistas of lovely valleys - with glimpses of cottages half embowered amid the algaroba trees. We turn almost at right angles through an opening of the surf, and passing through the reef are in the smooth harbor of Honolulu. THE PORT OF HONOLULU. This was formerly a great rendezvous for the American whaleships, two hundred of which at a time have found a safe and commodious harbor where they could refit for further cruising. A large quantity of provisions were required for so large a fleet, and the beef and potatoes of the islands found ready purchasers. Cargoes of oil were transhipped for New Bedford, and the place bore a strong resemblance to being first cousin to that famous oil city and to Nantucket. At present the visits of the whale-ships are few. It is one of the ", has beens." THE HAWAIIAN HOTEL. There are no vexatious custom house delays and examinations, and we are soon on terra firma and being wheeled away in a 'bus or wagonette to the Hawaiian Hotel. No grass hut; no smoking pile of earth over a ground oven; no half-clad cannibals peeping from behind the trees, seeking a victim-not these, or to this, THRO UGHI HA WAII. 117 our welcome. The host of the hotel receives his guests and does honor to the occasion, and soon we feel at ease in "t mine inn." It is an ideal hotel home. It stands in a spacious square, a large, handsome building, with its pretty cottages for those preferring a more retired life. The building is of concrete, three stories high, with large, lofty, well-ventilated rooms, broad verandas, and built by the Government with special reference to the comfort of guests, at a cost of some $150,000, and can accommodate one hundred guests. The grounds, of about an acre, are beautifully laid out, and when illuminated at night with electric lights, Chinese lanterns and flaming torches, it may be said to resemble a fairy land, or a bit out of the Arabian Nights. The price of board is not high at $3 per day.. There are first-class boardinghouses in the city for those who would prefer them, at reasonable rates. If the time of the traveler is necessarily limited, he can start at once on his sight-seeing and " do the islands," or the principal sights, in a week, a month, or ", a season " of three months, or as some of the dwellers in this sober land will tell you, that after years of residence they have not " done" all things yet! We will assume that our friends are not to be hurried too quickly through our grand scenery, that they are aware that objects worthy the coming six thousand miles to see are not to be done at sight in as many days or weeks. WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO SEE. After a night of delicious rest and sleep, we awaken by song of birds to a soft sweet atmosphere that is a luxury to breathe. The sky is brightly blue, and a gentle breeze is whispering among the trees, of which there is a great variety, for almost every land has been laid under contribution to add to those indigenous to the country; beautiful vines, as well, have been imported to add beauty to the scene. Within the city proper most of the places of interest are at easy walking distance. We notice that the dress of the gentlemen and ladies partake of individual taste. The white linen suit, fresh every morning, of the old settler, has mostly given way to the light-weight, fancy woolen goods of "thome" for gentlemen, while for the ladies the light, airy dress goods, in season and style follow the court fashions, from which we are only an week's sail. 118 TO URISTS' a UIDE THE ROYAL PALACE, HONOLULU. It is eminently fit and proper, as we are to spend some time at the island, and hope to see some of its society-public and private -that we make our first call at the palace. The king's palace is an imposing building three stories high, built of concrete stone, and covered with stucco. It was erected in 1880-2, and cost $500,000. As we enter the gates we meet a sentry, who, as he recognizes one of our company, nods permission to go on. We pass up well-cared-for walks; notice a profusion of tropical shrubbery, palms and beautiful shade-trees; while the soft and springy Bermuda grass makes a most attractive lawn. Sending our cards in by a servant in waiting, we are soon met by His Majesty's Vice-Chamberlain. Under his guidance we visit the state apartments, and are shown the treasures of the palace, its works of art, its rich curios, the grand reception or throne room, with its Boston-made furniture, the library and dining-room. It is not unlikely that an earnest request may bring an interview with the king himself; if so we shall find a large, wellformed gentleman, who will receive us with an ease and grace of manners that befit a king. His majesty is well read in all the current thought of the day and proves an agreeable conversationalist. In his tour around the world he met the most distinguished of. the crowned heads and rulers, and his reminiscences are most interesting. ALL ABOUT THE CITY AND ITS PEOPLE. In a stroll about the city we, of course, notice the appearance of the natives, as the people are called. They have the brown skin of the Indian, not the black of the negro; bright, intelligent faces, and straight, black hair, generally with good forms, easy gait and graceful in movement. The men have very generally adopted the usual English style of dress. The wahines, or women, dress with the loose holoku, or, as it would be called in Boston, " Mother Hubbard," but close-fitting around the throat; they generally prefer light colors in dress, and wear flowers in profusion. The streets of the city are very regularly laid out, macadamized and well kept in order. The fish market affords a good place to see the motley character of nationalities gathered in these sunny lands; and the mixed crowd from almost every nation makes a THRO UGHt HA TWAII. 119 Babel-jargon of language. The stores are large, commodious and inviting. As good and artistic displays of goods are made by the merchants as indicate the tokens of advanced civilization in the march of trade. Tile streets and some of the stores and public buildings are lighted with electricity. In the upper part of the city and the roads leading out to the valley and the plains, the residences of the native and domesticated. foreigner may be found. Almost concealed by the luxuriant growth of trees are most noticeable the residences of our merchants, professional men, and the foreign elemdnt whose homes are here. THE DWELLINGS, TREES, ETC. The dwellings are set a little back from the street, giving opp0rtunitity for an inviting approach, which has been improved with rmuch good taste. The houses are constructed of stone or wood, with wide verandas, and are literally embowered by trees, among which are these indigenous ones: Cocoanut, screw-palm, breadfruit, koa, kukui; and of foreign importation, the acacia, eucalyptus, the pine, fan-palm, bamboo, loquat. For flowers we see in profusion, in season, the Japanese and Micronesia lilies, Cape myrtle, the alamander, passion-flower, Mexican vine, and indeed, the flora of nearly every country under the sun. Among the most noted and striking of the creepers is the Bougainvillia, a cataract of singular magenta blossoms, a striking bit of color amid other varieties; the samang, or monkey-pod, with its, profusion of flowers and the regularity with which it folds its sensitive leaves to sleep; the hibiscus and varieties of acacia, aglow with flowers of different tints all the year round. But it is of no use to prolong this description, when the pen only seems too prosy to convey the poetry we see on every hand, and well entitles the land to be called the Paradise of the Pacific. GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. Opposite the Palace is the Government House, built in 1872-3. It is the headquarters of the principal officers of the Government. It contains the Public Museum, in which are many curiosities appertaining to olden times. In front of the building stands a fine bronze statue of Kamehameha I. It was executed by a Boston artist and is a very fine production, though an idealized conception-as the old king died in 1819, before art had made a TO URISTS' G UIDE lodgment on the then heathen shores. The Queen's Hospital is a most worthy institution, Atnd a fitting monument of Kamehameha IV. and Queen Emma his wife-both of whom merit the appellation given them by the people of ", The Good." CHURCHES. To those who desire to worship in the churches, we have, in English, the Episcopal and Congregational, while there are in Hawaiian, two Congregational and one each Roman Catholic, Chinese and Mormon. This land, once cursed with all the degradations of heathenism, with the terrible death-dealing kapu (taboo), has become, nominally at least, a Christian land, where the missionary labors of Protestants and Catholics have worked a wonderful change in the political, social and religious character of the nation. There are those even in these days who would call in question missionary effort, but no one can correctly study the work in these islands and not willingly give credit to that noble band of Americans who, like their ancestors of Plymouth, laid the strong foundation on the rock of the church and the schoolhouse. Honolulu possesses rare charms to a visitor in its varied attractions which lie outside the city proper. The rides and drives are numerous and interesting, of inviting peculiarity and enticing enchantment. WAIKIKI AND KAPIOLANI PARK. Whether by day or in the moonlight-such moonlight as one seldom sees outside the tropics-there are rare pleasures to be enjoyed. A climb to the old crater back of the city, Punch Bowl Hill, a bird's-eye view is gained of the beautiful panorama that is spread at one's feet; a drive to Waikiki and Kapiolani Park, the "t Long Branch " of the city, of which a former United States Minister wrote, well befitting the dolce far niente of the idyllic life that may be found there: " The cocoa, with its crest of spears, Stands sentry round the crescent shore; The algaroba bent with years, Keeps watch beside the lanai's door. For houris haunt the broad lanais, While scented zephyrs cool the lea; And looking down from sunset skies, The angels smile oil Waikiki. THlAMA IIONOLUII THRO UGH HA WAI I. 121 " Like truant children of the deep, Escaped behind a coral wall, The lisping wavelets laugh and weep, Nor heed Old Ocean's stern recall. All day they frolic with the sands, Kiss pink-lipped shells in wanton glee, Make windows with their patting hands, And singing, sleep at Waikiki." NUUANU PALI. One of the famous sights that travelers are enabled to accomplish, even in a few hours, is that of the NUUANU PALI or great precipice, six miles back of the city, at the head of the valley of the same name. Pali is the Hawaiian word for precipice, and the Nuuanu Pali, which is situated six and a half miles from Honolulu, is famous the world over for its magnificent view and for being the spot where King Kamehameha I. fought the last of a long series of battles to secure the consolidation and control of the Hawaiian Kingdom. Everybody who visits Honolulu goes to the pali; the trip is such a delightful one when the road is good. You follow up Nuuanu avenue, on which are located the most fashionable residences and the most beautiful gardens, past the Protestant cemeteries, past the royal mausoleum-a neat, chapel-like building of gray granite, with windows of stained glass, where lie in state the Kings of the last century. The road here takes an up grade, and very soon you get enchanting views of the city behind you, embowered in trees, with an occasional spire or rounded cupola piercing the green foliage, while the stately Government building, the Royal Palace, the Catholic Cathedral and a few other buildings are more easily distinguished, and beyond all lies the shimmering expanse of the summer sea. The road heads for the mountains now, which loom up in the soft purple haze which envelops them, covering every rocky protuberance and lending an air of distance that is quite deceiving. On reaching the Pall or precipice, a grand panoramic view opens to the eye of the spectator. On the green, sloping plain below him are fields of sugar cane, banana plantations and patches of taro-that much esteemed delicacy of Hawaiians, of which poi, the Hawaiian national food is made. In the distance the outline 122 TO URIST'S GUIDE of the coast can be discerned like a wavering line fringed with white surf. To see the Nuuanu Pali on a clear day is to see something you will always remember. We have not touched on the wonderful exhibitions of the great extinct volcano on Haleakala; the greater wonder of the volcano; visits to the spot where Captain Cook landed and died; the great sugar plantations; the interesting study of the natural, physical and political questions here presented to the thoughtful student. These must be left for a further description, or our word taken that they will repay the examination by those who are interested in such topics, that are coming more and more to,flaim the attention of the thoughtful.-Corr. Boston Transcript. THE APPROACHES TO THE VOLCANO. There are three routes to the Volcano. These are, the old road from Hilo through the woods and fern district via Olaa; another is that opened by the Wilder Steamship Company, via Keauhou; and lastly the one made by Mr. Peter Lee, via Punaluu, Kau. The first, known as the Hilo-Volcano road, is twenty-nine miles in length, and was formerly only a bridle path, which could be traveled over during good weather in five or six hours, and during wet weather in eight to ten. For vehicles it has never been passable. The National Legislature voted $30,000 in 1888 to construct a wagon road by this route, and good work has been done for about half the distance. The remaining portion will probably be completed during the present year, when carriages and brakes can pass over it in four or five hours. Throughout its entire length the most charming tropical verdure abounds, with ferns of majestic growth, and orchids of rare and beautiful species. THE KEAUHOU ROUTE. A second road, via Keauhou, was opened three years ago by the Wilder Steamship Company, which shortened the land travel very much. Keauhou is a small bay lying seaward from the crater, fifteen miles distant, which is covered in three hours, half the distance on horseback and half in coaches or brakes. The steamer after reaching Hilo, carries her passengers on to Keauhou, lands them and returns to Hilo. After THiRO UGH HA WAII. 123 completing her freighting along the coast, which occupies three days, she returns to Keauhou, picks up her passengers, returns to H1ilo and resumes her voyage.back to Honolulu, the whole requir. ing one week, three days of which are spent at the crater. THE PUNALUU ROUTE. This road was opened three years ago, and is a favorite one with tourists going in the Inter-Island Company's steamer, via Kau, landing at Punaluu. As described by one who lately went over it, the new road instead of passing near the high cliffs of the crater turns to the right, winding through the pahoehoe district some four miles till it reaches the aa stream of 1843, perhaps one mile in extent, which it crosses, and then along the skirting base of the bluff, enters the wooded valley of Aamoku, the surface of which is quite smooth and well sodded, crossing and after the old trail, follows this valley towards the sea and Pahala, leaving Kapapala ranch some distance to the right. This Aamoku valley is an older formation that has long been covered with trees and grass, and has for centuries escaped the numerous lava flows which are formed on either side of it. The valley extends from about six miles of the crater to within a quarter of a mile of the village of Punaluu. Mr. Lee took advantage of this natural route, and constructed a good wagon road from the Volcano Hotel to Pahala, a distance of twenty miles, over which I traveled in a loaded brake, drawn by one horse, in three hours and fifteen minutes, neither the driver nor the horse having ever been over the road before, and the animal at the finish being apparently in as fresh condition as at the start. The grade is easy, and in no part of the road are steep hills or gulches encountered. In short, it is one of the easiest roads in the islands, and the wonder is that it was not before opened to the public. By following the course of the Aamoku valley, and passing Pahala mill a mile or two nearer the sea, the road may be extended to Punaluu over the same level grade and smooth turf. This description shows that a natural route has long existed there for a first class wagon road from Punaluu to the Volcano. Mr. Lee's road ends at Pahala mill, and travelers going to and from the Volcano, are taken over the tramway between these two places, which are five miles apart. At 124 TO URISTS' G UIDE Punaluu, Mr. Lee has erected a new and comfortable hotel, and travelers will always find there the comforts of hotels in more populous seaports. For his road and his hotel he deserves great credit. A CIRCUIT TRIP RECOMMENDED TO TOURISTS. By far the best plan for travelers visiting the Volcano is to start from Honolulu either in the steamer leaving for Hilo or that for Punaluu, and return by the other boat. In this way, everyone can make the circuit of Hawaii; for instance, first taking the steamer Hall, and, skirting in smooth water along the shores of Kona, view the scene of Captain Cook's death and the monument erected there to his memory, and landing at Punaluu, ride up to the crater, stopping there a day or a week as they choose. Leaving the Volcano house, take the road to Hilo through the woods, where the finest forest scenery in the islands is found, spend a day or two in the village and its vicinity, and returning to Honolulu by the Kinau, view from her decks the bold cliffs of the Hamakua shore, with their numerous waterfalls, and visit the beautiful village and sugar district of Kohala over the tortuous railroad which connects it with Mahukona. In the same way, travelers going first to Hilo by the Kinau. might return from the crater, via Punaluu on the Hall. A schedule of this kind makes a trip to the Volcano so attractive that thousands would come here " to do the islands," where we now only have hundreds. Traveling on Hawaii would thus be more popular, more pleasant, and tourists would get more for their money. GOOD LOCATION FOR COLONISTS. Among the benefits that will follow the completion of good roads from Hilo to Waiohinu, via tho Volcano, will be the opening up of considerable tracts of new land lying between Hilo bay and Olaa, a stretch of fifteen miles, part of which is excellent for colonizing purposes, where Hawaiians, Portuguese, and others will locate and engage in the cultivation of such products as will best grow there, including bananas, oranges, coffee, cane, ramie, millet, oats and other grains for horse feed, with other small industries which will be developed in time. Some of the land along the route is said to be well adapted to cultivation, both for the plow and hoe. Good judges think that a population of several thousands might be readily located on the lands to which the road would become the chief outlet. THR O UGH HA WAIi. 125 HONOLULU. VIEWS OF AN AUSTRALIAN TOURIST. Honolulu, the capital of the Hawaiian Islands, is a thriving seaport town of 25,000 inhabitants, having regular communication with the Pacific Coast, New Zealand and Australia, by first class steamships of the Oceanic Steamship Company of San Francisco. There is also a fleet of steam and sailing vessels in the InterIsland, South Sea and Pacific Coast trade belonging to Honolulu. The principal local organizations are the Wilder Steamship Company and the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company. Extensive wharves and warehouses have been built at the port, and nowhere can vessels have quicker dispatch than at Honolulu. A marine railway affords facilities for the repair of medium-sized vessels. Honolulu likewise boasts of a well-equipped foundry, where machinery of the heaviest kind is made. It has several machine shops, two planing mills, lumber yards and every requisite for carrying on an extensive manufacturing, building and shipping trade. The retail stores of Honolulu will not suffer by comparison with stores in San Francisco or Sydney. Ample banking facilities are afforded by the local banks of Bishop & Co. and Spreckels & Co. tourists will find living easy. There are several first-class boarding honses and well-kept restaurants, but the Hawaiian Hotel offers attractions superior to anything in the shape of hotel accommodation outside San Francisco or other first-class American cities. There is nothing approaching it in the Australian Colonies. No other place of its size in the world has so many licensed carriages for hire as Honolulu. The drives around the city are charming. The cost of living is moderate and the climate most enjoyable. The streets are well lighted at night and protected by police, although the city is remarkably free from serious offences against person or property. There is an ample water supply provided by the Government. Two public squares-Emma and Thomas-are tastefully laid out in walks and planted with flowering shrubs, shade and ornamental trees. HAWATIANS FOND OF MUSIC. Honolulu is also a city of churches, schools and colleges. The inhabitants delight in music, the natural love of melody possessed 126 TO URISTS' G UIDE by native Hawaiians having been encouraged by the missionaries in the first instance, and afterwards cultivated in the public schools. Regular open air concerts by the Royal Hawaiian Band, composed entirely of natives, under the leadership of a skilled musician, Mr. H. Berger, have also been the means of cultivating a taste for classic music among the city population. The St. Louis College and Portuguese bands are also well trained. The church music is superior. Honolulu being the seat of government, its public buildings are attractive. The Palace, where their Majesties the King and Queen reside, is a handsome building; so also is Aliiolani Hale (Government building), in which are the offices of the various public departments, Supreme Court and Law Library, Legislative Hall and National Museum. The Hawaiian Opera House, Young Men's Christian Association building and the Public Library and Reading Room are substantial and attractive brick edifices. The Queen's Hospital is a noble institution, situated in a noble park near the center of the city. The Industrial School is a substantial building, surrounded by extensive grounds. The Lunatic Asylum lacks architectural attractions, but it has ample grounds surrounding it, and is well managed and healthful. The prison is a model penal establishment. The charitable institutions and societies of Honolulu are many and well administered. Lunalilo Home, established by the king of that name, about a mile from the city, is the most conspicuous. It was founded for the support of poor and indigent Hawaiians; but, to the honor of the native people, very few are compelled to seek refuge within its hospitable portals. EVIDENCES OF ADVANCED CIVILIZATION. The Masonic fraternity, Independent Order of Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias and other secret and benevolent societies are well housed and in a flourishing condition. The Odd Fellows' Hall, on Fort street, is one of the oldest brick structures in the city and is perhaps the best built. This capital city boasts also of a well conducted and representative Press. There are two daily English newspapers, the Pacific Commercial Advertiser (morning) and Bulletin (evening). The only weekly newspaper in the English language is the old, well established Hawaiian Gazette, which numbers its readers in all quarters of the globe. There are two daily and two weekly THRo UGH HA WAII. 127 newspapers published in the Hawaiian language. There are several printing establishments and two book binderies. Among the sights of Honolulu are the well kept gardens surrounding the elegant homes of its inhabitants. Strangers arriving in Honolulu are hospitably entertained, and it is entirely their own fault if their stay is not made pleasant and agreeable to them. The distressed of -all nations are well cared for either by private or public charity. Indeed, no other community in the world gives more freely or liberally to the cause of charity than the foreign and native residents of Honolulu. To sum up in a word, all the appliances of civilized life and refined society are to be found in the capital city of the Hawaiian Kingdom.-Corr. Sydney Herald. HA WAII'S HERITA GE-KILA UEA. One of the many thousands of tourists who has made the pleasant holiday trip between Honolulu and San Francisco in the floating palaces of the Oceanic Steamship Co., and a gentleman versed in the science of geology, writes thus of the natural wonders of the Hawaiian Islands. In a late communication in answer to a request for information regarding the formation of the islands he states: The repose of the voyage across the Pacific Ocean is very gently and pleasantly broken by the first sight of the Hawaiian Islands, If the sky be clear the Island of Maui is seen breaking through the mist of early morning. The great cone of Haleakala rises to the height of ten thousand feet. The crater is the largest known, being nine miles in diameter, and it seems impossible to conceive the grandeur of eruptions from so vast an outlet. At present the work of the volcano is accomplished. During long ages of rest rocks have decomposed, and now rich soil supports an enchanting vegetation. Soon the cliffs of Molokai indicate the location of the leper settlement. Then sailing toward Oahu we approach Koko Head, and rounding Diamond Point the city of Honolulu bursts upon our view, with its palace and charming cottages nestled In the trees, and creeping up the lovely valleys which are enclosed in the mountains at the rear. GRANDEUR OF VOLCANIC DISPLAY. In California we are acquainted with many evidences of ancient volcanic action. Some of our lofty peaks were formed by erup 128 TO URISTS' G UIDE tions of lava, which, bursting through the stratified rocks and covering the glaciers, spread over vast acres of gold-bearing gravels. But everywhere, side by side with volcanic forces, were others which played a more important roll in the formation of the continent. In the Hawaiian Islands we have no such complications. Here volcanic action has been paramount. Every headland is an extinct volcano. Every island has its special center of eruption, which, commencing at the unfathomable bottom of the sea, has slowly built up a foundation, and then a superstructure by successive layers of lava, until the present altitudes were reached. The ranges of disrupted mountains bear testimony to the Titanic forces which were brought into operation. It is impossible to picture the result of projecting a burning mountain into the sea atsuch depths; what mighty explosions then occurred! what evolution of steam and gas I! On the Island of Hawaii, and on others also, are huge cracks thousands of feet deep, and of great width, which have been formed by the bursting upwards of the lava-beds, and even to-day, although countless ages of repose have intervened, the evidence of volcanic action is both fresh and universal. There are many deposits of rich soil, washed down from the higher levels of slowly disintegrating rocks, but the general surface of the islands consists still of unaltered lava, the markings of which are nearly as fresh as when they first cooled-it may be thousands of years ago. A VOLCANO FOURTEEN THOUSAND FEET HIGH. Nor has the activity of volcanic action entirely ceased. The cone at Maunaloa, which is fourteen thousand feet above the sealevel, burst into great activity only a few years ago, and lava was thrown upwards many hundred feet. Every six or seven years there is an eruption from its sides, and only a few years ago the flow of lava threatened the town of Hilo with destruction. At Kilauea there is now constant activity. This is thirty miles from Hilo, and the journey is full of interest. Starting in the early morning, a belt of superb forest is soon reached, after which the road crosses miles of molten lava, and rises slowly to the edge of the Volcano. Here fissures and chasms emit sulphurous vapors, and at night outbursts of lava frequently occur from one or other of the two craters, which are in constant action. The cauldron is three miles in diameter, and four hundred feet in depth. It has 'VA'tH XI JX510S iT j ONION TW7777777............... I................................................................................................................................................. kE t THRO UGIH HA WAII. 129 been formed by the falling in and melting of the rocks. This operation has long since ceased, and to-day Is carried on at two small points in miniature. Over these hang an illuminated vapor. When active, every few minutes a fountain of molten lava bursts upwards in the center of the crater, rising to the height of sixty to one hundred feet, and bursting into a thousand brilliant points like an illuminated fountain. This should be seen at night. Now and again the pool of,the crater breaks up into a mass of fire, and when the molten liquid has accumulated to a certain height the containing boundaries give way, and the lava spreads out upon the surface with indescribable effect. In the second, or new crater, the effects are somewhat different. The basin is literally damascened with fire, with a most beautiful and fascinating effect. About one mile away is an extinct crater of the most perfect shape. It is called Kilauea Iki, or the Little Kilauea. In fact nowhere are the phenomena of volcanic eruptions more apparent or more easily observed than here. They are visited by many travelers and scientists, and add much to the interest of a visit to the Islands. HAWAII FOR HEALTH. A medical visitor to these islands of the mid-Pacific, being asked for an opinion regarding the recuperative qualities of Iawaiian climate, published the following reply: It is not surprising that a trip to the Hawaiian Islands should be recommended in cases of sickness in which a change of climate is considered necessary for cure. For some years past the glorious climate of California appears to have deserted the city of San Francisco. Hail, rain and snow too often alternate with sunshine to be agreeable to invalids. A robust constitution, a good digestion and temperate habits alone enable a man to bear successfully the sudden changes of temperature which are felt in passing from one side of the street to the other. The heavy fogs are productive of catarrh and rheumatism. From December to April there is a high mortality from pneumonia. Indeed, so dangerous is now the climate of this city, that every one threatened with lung disease is promptly ordered to seek a more congenial atmosphere, and what more natural than a visit to the Hawaiian Islands?. g 180. TO URISTS ' a UIDE The voyage is itself a restful change. Once out of port there are no letters or telegrams to distract the attention. In the well appointed steamers which traverse the Pacific the discomforts of a sea trip are reduced to a minimum, and the invalid must indeed be low who does not rally speedily from the preliminary attack of sickness, under the joint effects of smooth and rapid movement, comfortable berths, obliging and attentive officers, excellent food and pure air. And at the islands what a glorious change! A temperature of seventy-five degrees at night and eighty degrees by day; a gentle breeze from the south, or a more invigorating trade wind to moderate the sense of heat, while now and again a few light showers purify the air and lay the dust. A RESORT FOR THE INVALID. In Honolulu the invalid throws off his heavy wraps and basks in the lovely atmosphere. He lounges in the veranda through the livelong day, and at night watches the rising of the Great Bear without the suspicion of a chill. With the window of his bed-room open, lie needs a coverlet and blanket, and in the early morning he rises with the sun refreshed and hungry for his breakfast. Those who will benefit most from a stay in the islands are, first the convalescents from acute pneumonia and acute diseases generally, as contracted in San Francisco. To such the rest and quiet life, the agreeable temperature and lovely scenery are invaluable, and if the residence in Honolulu should be varied by a visit to the other islands, and by a residence on a somewhat elevated situation, the health will certainly be re-established. The climate of the islands is well adapted for the treatment and relief of those diseases in which a free action of the skin is most desirable. Many disorders of the liver and digestive organs are greatly relieved by this means. Sufferers from disorders of the kidneys, and particularly those who have the beginnings of Bright's disease, are greatly assisted if not cured. Under the soothing influence of warmth and moisture, irritability of the nervous system is diminished and neuralgias are often cured. TIDtR U H" HA WAII. 131 PUNCHBO WL HILL. AN EARLY MORNING RIDE AND PICNIC ON THE SUMMIT. BY A LADY. ' Well, it was a revelation i" said the judge — the smoothness of the road and its very gradual rise, and especially the changing views of mountain and sea and plain as you drive along. And so easy of access too; and not more than half an hour from the bottom to the top, if you walk your horses, and you can trot them all the way if you like, the slope is so easy." We had heard similar expressions before, and being busy people, had not yet been able to make the trip. On the spur of the moment one of us proposed to go up there in the cool of the morning and have breakfast, And so it came about that three families of neighbors held an early picnic on that lovely spot-the summit of Punchbowl. It was not much labor. A little preparation the day before, and perhaps a little earlier rising on the part of some of the family. No hour in the whole day is so charming out of doors in this sunny clime, as from six to seven in the morning, and for such an excursion the earlier one can start the better. The ascent begins nearly opposite the Mormon Church on Punchbowl street. As you pass along you will not mind how slow your horses go, for you must feast upon the changing scene. At your left lies this fair city, buried in verdure, lighted with the early morning glow) and beyond are the sea and Pearl Harbor and the haay Waianae mountains"'Those watch towers of the West," outlining the whole. In front is Pauoa Valley, lying still half asleep in the lap of the mountains, but just awakening at the kiss of the morning sun. In all this fair land one could hardly find a fairer bit than this cool verdant valley. A little further, and the view on the other side of the plain and Waikiki and the old sentinel Diamond Head bursts upon you. The road on this side is a trifle steeper in ascent, and is partly along the edge of an abrupt precipice. But a well-built stone wall here, as in other places, prevents all fear. Before reaching the top the road turns, 192 TO URIISTS' G IDE and you drive for some distance through the park-like old crater, and finally reach the summit near the old fiag-pole, overlooking the city and the bay. AN APPETIZING SCENE. If amid all this lovliness you have room far anything so mundane as eating, you will by this time have a good appetite, and breakfast can be easily prepared. A fre among the rocks will quickly heat the coffee prepared the day before, and cook the ham and eggs too, if you care to take the trouble, and the abun. dant grass is both table and seats. How cool the air is f And what a dining room! Who wouId't rise half an hour earlier for such a view? In front stretches the whole of the bay from Barber's Point to Diamond Head, the city and plain, a sight fair enough for any land. Behind, the crater at your feet, and numerous valleys beyond, with long shadows stretching across them from the slowly rising sun. The descent was easily and rapidly made, and as we rolled along, we passed a hearty vote of thanks to our worthy Minister of the Interior, whose enterprise has added this attractive drive to the limited number we have or can have about our city-a drive so accessible and so easily takern that though we did not hasten, and enjoyed every moment, the men were down in time for business and the children for school, and we all felt as if we had had a holiday. KAPIOLANI PARK. This beautiful park of about 300 acres, lies on the sea shore and along the base of Diamond Head. Twenty years ago there were only two or three old hau trees where now there are several thousands of various kinds. It was a barren sandy plain covered with stunted grass, over which roamed stray horses and cattle. Shortly after taking charge of the Hawaiian Hotel, Mr. Allen Herbert, conceived the idea of making here a public park, race course and bathing resort, and succeeded in obtaining a lease of the land for thirty years, which was subsequently assigned to the Kapiolani Park Association, with the view of improving it for the purposes originally intended by him. By the aid of appro-.priations from the public treasury, it was laid out with numerous THRO aUGH HA WAIL.,s188 drives, and in the center was reserved a race-course, of one mile in length, which has for many years been the only track near the city. The Park is in charge of Mr. H. McCullum, under whose supervision roads have been constructed and the planting of trees steadily carried on for the past fifteen years. There are now five or six miles of drives within the enclosure, and it is estimated that there are more than ten thousand trees growing in it. Numerous ponds and islands are scattered along its western borders, which add to its attractions and furnish favorite resorts for fanilies and picnics. Since the work of improving the park began, the lawns have been sodded with manienie or Bermuda grass, which makes a fine and permanent turf. There are two approaches to the park, one by the well known Waikiki road, through which the tramcars run as far as the causeway. The other is known as the Moiliili road, and is not as yet so good for travel, and consequently less frequented. When in better order and better known, a favorite drive will be to the park by one road, returning by the other. It is probable that the tramcars will soon enter the park and run as far as dwellings are built. A third approach to the park will be by the Ocean Avenue, now being constructed from the harbor to Waikiki, along the seashore. Quite a number of fine residences have been erected, stretching from the entrance along the shore to the foot of Diamond Head, and thence following the road beyond the track past the Casino residence Qf H. J. Nolte. On the main avenue are some fine residences, including those of Allan Herbert, Hon. W. G. Irwin, the Park Hotel and James Campbell, near the base of Diamond Head. These and other residences are provided with ample fresh water from artesian wells in the neighborhood. The bathing facilities along the Waikiki beach, both within and without the park, are very superior, and are much resorted to by citizens and strangers. The sea-water possesses a pleasant temperature, and for most people is a healthy and invigorating tonic. Waikiki has been for a century and is still the favorite abode of the Hawaiian chiefs, who have their preserves under the cool shade of the cocoanut palms, which constitute one of the most charming groves to be found in any country. 184 TO URISTS' G UIDE HALEAKALA. VALLEY OF IAO, ANID THE PALACE OF THE SUN. Are you aware that the sQ-called lao " valley" back of Wailuku, Maui, is pronounced by Pr6f. Dana to be a crater? It is undoubtedly one of the most magnificent craters of the world. After passing through the narrow entrance you find yourself in a bowl as round as,,Punchbowl," but which is five or six miles in diameter, from fifteen to eighteen miles in circumference, and from 2,000 to 4,000 feet deep. The surrounding cloudcapped peaks, forming the sides of the crater, rise from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above the sea and are exquisitely green with moss and fern and forest from summit to base. The whole crater is beautifully wooded, and makes one think of," The Happy Valley " of Rasselas. If Kilauea is the largest active crater in the world and Haleakala the largest extinct crater, is not lao the most beautiful? If Punchbowl has a carriage road to its summit, shbuld not Iao crater have a good horse trail to its center? A few hundred dollars would make it. I have followed a suggestion of Judge Caton of Illinois, in trying to imagine some of the circumstances of the fabled origin of East Maui. While I slept in a cavern on the rugged side of Haleakala, I dreamt. And I saw in my dream a grey haired kahuna (sorcerer); pointing with skinny finger to the mountain-top he said, "t Child of yesterday! Thou liest at the foot of Pele's ancient throne. Behold beneath thee the fertile plain. Behold on either hand the ocean rolling in eternal unrest. The mountain above the cloud rests in eternal peace; but out of tribulation all great things are born. In the teons of distant ages, when earth was void, the venerable goddess waved her wand, and from the depths, with Titan throes and sounds unearthly, uprose the ocean's base. By the might of her outstretched hand she lifted from the seething waves this rock-mountain wherdon she established her throne, and smiled while all nature trembled. THROUGH HA WAII..185 On every side fire fountains shoot high in air their molten streams which fall back into the fiery lake they feed, with a noise as the sound of many waters. Here and there craters within the crater throw aloft, as though they would assault heaven itself, burning rocks and stones, which fall with splash and hiss into the boiling ocean. Heaven and earth are confounded in the tumult. The smoke of the torrent ascends continually. The fumes and the heavy masses of vapor, rising from the steaming sea, glow crimson with the lurid light. In the murky midnight the quick lightnings flash from earth to heaven, and from heaven to earth again. Peal on peal the fierce artillery thunders from crag to crag till heaven trembles with the music in which Pele rejoices. In yonder crater rolls a sea of fire whose surges dash upon adamantine shores. Ever and anon they burst their bounds and rush to the ocean in fiery floods whose black remains you may still see, lying like dead monsters, stretched down the mountain side. Unnumbered ages passed and were buried in the tomb of Time. Time himself grew weary while ashes turned to clay-lava to rock-and rock to dust. The mountain clothed himself with forests, and the floods plowed deep valleys in his sides. Pele's fires grew faint and dim. Her restless, molten sea was hushed; about her fleet her numerous children ceased to sigh, leaving only the hollow cones you here behold. And with her wand she departed, to return nevermore. The voice ceased; I awoke. The seer had vanished, but there stood snow-crowned Haleakala in the moonlight; serene, stern and silent as the stars. TO THE SUMMIT OF HALEAKALA. Christmas week a small party started up to spend the night at the top of the mountain. No midnight gettings up at Olinda, no cold rides at unearthly hours, no nights of smoke, misery, and fleas at the cave. These valiant hearts would sleep at the very lop, under the overhanging rock. They would see the last of the sun as it went down over West Maui, and the first of the sun as it came up over Hawaii. One gave out at Olinda. She said she always intended to stop there, but the others went on. On reaching the top the kamaainas declared they had never seen the crater so perfectly clear; not the faintest little white fleck of cloud any. 186 TO URISTS' GUIDE where, and the cones at the bottom stood out wonderfully distinct. After a while a few little white specks appeared, drifting in over the cliffs at our right, and gathered in the bottom of the crater until only the tops of the cones could be seen, then only the higher cones, then in a marvelously short time the crater was full up to our feet, and all the world behind us-which we had forgottenwas clouded over, so we could only see a few feet just around us. But it was cold and our enthusiasm had exhausted itself; so the summons to come and get some hot coffee was a welcome call. After our supper we sat round the fire telling stories, asking and "t giving up" conundrums, singing slave songs, minstrel songs, college songs until the watches of the company said various times from twenty-five minutes of eleven to fifteen minutes past. Then, with saddles for pillows, and all the wraps we could gather, we made ready for what sleep we could get. We all know how Jacob felt when he said, or did somebody say for him, "t My rest a stone." Occasionally a ghost of a figure would steal away to see how it seemed to be all alone away up there 10,000 feet above anybody else, and experience for himself what one who had made the trip many times had said about the absolute stiUness of the air, and the helpless, far-away feeling it gave one to know that that great crater was on one side full of clouds, and the slope of the huge mountain covered with clouds on the other side, while one could only see just the spot where he stood. One stood there some time watching a thunder storm below us. She was much interested in watching the lightning dive down and part the clouds, until she happened to think that she was the highest object just there, and a most excellent target for the lightning; then she came flying back into the cave, where there was safety if not comfort. In the morning we had another most wonderful view. The clouds slowly drifted to our left towards Koolau Gap, and one after another the cones appeared, until the whole crater was empty, as swept and garnished as it had been the evening before. Then, when we turned to see how the world behind us looked, there was a glorious sight. West Maul, Molokai and Lanai clear and beautiful, every valley and gulch distinct; one black speck in Maalaea bay, three black specks in Kahului, one in Maliko, a line of smoking plantation chimneys from Olualu to Huelo. But the S~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --- —----- 0~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --- —----- THRO UGH HA WAII. 137 crowning glory was the solid bank of white clouds, keeping the shape of the gap through which they passed, slowly drifting down to the sea. It was so very white, except where the sun gave it a beautiful red tinge, that as it moved in dignified silence over the green cane fields and brown plowed lands on to the intensely blue sea, it was a sight never to be forgotten. After looking and looking until all this glory had vanished, we turned to the crater again, and saw more white clouds floating in, away at our right. So this emptying and filling goes on day after day, whether any eyes are there to see it or not. Any pilikias? Oh yes! Did ever a party go up but somebody's horse got away, or somebody's horse gave out, or somebody's horse bucked, or somebody talked when the rest wanted to sleep, or the supply of wood gave out before all were ready to go to bed? But these were trifles less than air, except to the unfortunates who had to walk, and they would have walked farther to see the wonders we saw. REMINISCENCES OF OLINDA. A Brazilian emperor, in admiration of a little town near Pernambuco, exclaimed "t Olinda," thus giving it a name. And he can but echo the word " Olinda" (the beautiful) who, having climbed the ", Hill of Difficulty," at the summit of which the "4 Palace Beautiful " stands, looks from its brow over the lovely mountain slope, covered with verdure and dotted with white cottages, while a dark jagged line marks the course of some ravine, winding down to the sea. To the left rise the blue peaks of the Wailuku Mountains, seeming so insignificant compared with this height, while the islands of Molokai and Lanai play at hide and seek behind them. The blue of the ocean encircles all; and above are fleecy clouds which circle the summit of our grand old Haleakala. Half way up its slope the delightful mountain home at Olinda was established in 1876 by Mr. S. T. Alexander, and has ever since been the Maui panacea for all ills. How many jolly parties have made this the rallying point for a climb to the summit; and what merry days and weeks we have all spent herelaughing at all inconveniences, such as forks in the ratio of one to four individuals, a knife for stirring our coffee, or a spoon for carving beefsteak and turkey, wild cattle warranted to gore one 188 TO UBlSTS' GUIDE to death at first sight (but which have never been known to do so), the distant rumble of whose voice will send you up a tree in a minute-if you happen to be a girl, and a colony of ", Swiss Chamois" more ferocious than Mark Twain ever encountered. All these ills we forget amid the hundred and one pleasures of Olinda; the berrying, rambling, picnicing in the woods, ferning, mossing, hunting, shelling, in fact everything is a pleasure at Olinda, especially eating and breathing. Let us hear the testimony of those who have experienced it all, and left their names and their sentiments in the Olinda record book. "l Four thousand feet above the sea we look down upon a charming view of forest, valley, mountain, and sea." And here is a perfect description of our earthly Beulah. ",Now I saw in my dream that the pilgrims were got, over the enchanted ground, and entered into the country of Olinda, whose very air was sweet and pleasant. There they solaced themselves for a season, and heard the singing of birds, and saw every day the flowers appear in the earth, and the voice of the turtle was heard in the land." Again a rollicking line meets our eye, Rig-ajig-jig, and away we go," whose writer every one can guess. Marion E. Rowell, under the date of August, 1877, gives us the following lines: Thou land of koa and choicest fern, To thee my thoughts will oft return, For thee my inmost soul will yearn, Olinda! Akalas rare do here abound, Ohelos ripe and red are found, - And I might also mention the wild strawberry, but Will says it is a magnificent fraud, and I cannot be induced to speak of anything that will not to thy credit resound,Olinda! Here every face with smiles is bright, Voices are merry, hearts are lightAs well as the biscuits, which on account of the absence of atmospheric pressure rise to a most amazing heightOlinda I G. Paia, Maui. THRO UGH HA WAII. 189 STATISTICAL. It is not the intention of the compiler to furnish an array of statistics in this guide, but a few, and especially such as relate to travel, the population, and every day reference and experiences, are looked for, and are given under this section, rather than scattered promiscuously through the work. POPULATION. The year 1890 is designated by law for taking the ninth national census. There has been considerable increase during the past two years of Portuguese and Japanese, and probably of foreigners generally, the extent of which can only be determined by the official enumeration. It is quite probable, however, that the whole population now exceeds 90,000, unless there has been a greater decrease among the native population than is anticipated. In the absence of more recent data, the following statement of previous enumerations is inserted: COMPARATIVE TABLE OF POPULATION. Esti- CENSUS. ISLANDS. mate ----------- 1823 1832 1836 1853 1860 1866 1872 1878 1884 Hawaii........... 85,000 45,702 39,364 24,450 21,481 19,808 16,001 17,034 24,991 Maul.......... 20,000 35,062 24,199 17,574 16,400 14,035 12,334 12,109 15,970 Oahu.......... 20,000 29,755 27.809 19,126 21,275 19,799 20,671 20,236 28.068 Kauai............ 10,000 10,977 8,934 6,991 6,487 6,299 4,961 5,634 8,935 Molokai.......... 3,500 6,000 6,000 3,607 2,864 2,299 2,349 1,581 2,614 Lanai.......... 2,500 1,600 1,200 600 646 394 348 214............ Niihau............ 1,000 1,047 993 790 647 325 233 177........... K ahoolaw e...... 50 80 80...................................................................... Totals........ 142,050 130,313 108,579 73,138 69,800 62.959 56,897 57,985 80,578 SCHOOLS AND SCHOLARS. The Hawaiian Nation possesses a complete educational system, administered by a Board of Trustees, and endowed by liberal appropriations from the national revenue, amounting for the biennial period of 1886-8 to $322,348, and for the succeeding biennial period 1888-90 to $391,438. 140 TO URISTS' G UIDE The total number of schools in the Kingdom is 178, and of the scholars 10,006, mostly taught in English. The number of teachers employed in all the schools is 368, of whom 252 are foreigners, and 116 of Hawaiian birth. The public schools are all free, with one exception, while the independent or private schools charge a weekly fee of from fifty cents to one dollar for each pupil. Every district in the Kingdom is provided with several schools, either free, public, or private, and settlers can secure for their children the educational advantages of other countries. HAWAIIAN SUGAR PLANTATIONS. The reciprocity treaty between the United States and Hawaii, which took effect in 1876, gave a great impetus to the sugar industry, as was expected. The capital which was invested in the business naturally came chiefly from America, and statistics which have been published show that three-fifths of the capital is owned by Americans resident here or in the United States. As the subject is one of great interest, in which tourists will naturally seek for the facts, some statistics, originally prepared for and published in the Planters' Monthly, will be read with satisfaction. OWNERSHIP OF HAWAIIAN SUGAR PLANTATIONS. The following table has been prepared with much labor, to exhibit the ownership of sugar planting interests in Hawaii. It will be found as complete and accurate as it is possible to make such a statement. Four sugar estates incorporated in California-the Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Co., Hana Sugar Co., Hutchinson Sugar Co. and Hakalau Sugar Co. —have capitals out of proportion to the remaining sugar plantations and to the corporate values of this country, and may be rated too high, while a large number of the remaining estates are valued too low. Taken altogether, thirty-three millions may fairly represent the money value of the sugar interests of the country. Regarding nationality, it ought to be stated that the present owners are classed as their fathers were, whether American, British, Germans etc., and this seems to be the only rule which can equitably be adopted. The treaty was made to benefit American and Hawaiian interests alike, and calling these the same, the joint interest of the two nationalities amounts to $24,918,660, or more than three-fourths of the whole6 9 TH'RO UGI HA WAII. 141 The following is a statement of the amount of the sugar interests in Hawaii credited to each nationality: American......................................$24,664,610 British......................................... 6,724,730 Germ an.......................................... 1,835,800 Native Hawaiian.......................................... 254,050 Chines.................................................... 236,900 Norwegian......................................... 40,000 Portuguese.............................................. 88,500 Chilian.................................................... 6,400 Total................................................. $32,800,990 HAWAIIAN SUGAR CORPORATIONS.... I......A S. CORPORATIONS. Blawn.Com,& SugarCo. lakalan PlantationCo. Hutchinson Plan.Co.. Hilo Suaar Co........ Hilea Sugar Co........ Kilanca Sugar Co...... Waikapnu 'lan. Co..... Ookala Suaar Co...... Olowalu Stugat Co.... Reciprocity Sugar Co.. Paia Plantation Co.... flaikn SIgar Co....... Kohala Sugar Co...... lonokaa Sugar Co.... Pacific Sugar Mill..... fHani Plantation Co... leeil Sugar Co........ Lanpahoehoe sugar Co Waiakea Mill Co...... Hamakna Mill Co..... Union Mill Co......... Koloa Stngar Co....... Knkaiau Plan. Co..... Kipahulu Sugar Co.... Waimea $Sngar Mill Co Waimaualo Sngar Co.. Waiatnae Sugar Co..... Princeville Plan. Co... Wailnku Sunar Co..... Hawn. Agricultural Co. Makee Sugar Co....... Honomu Sugar Co..... Waihee Sngar Co...... Onomea Sugar Co.... Paukaa Sutar Co...... Makaweli Sugar Co.... Ewa Plantation Co.... Kahuku Plantat on Co. Total............ $10,00, ()O 100,000 1,00X,001 10,00jO 1,o000.ooo00 10.000 500,o00 5,000 300.000 300 250O,000 2.500 2'00,000 2000 150,000 1,500 100.000 1.001 750,000 7.500 50000) 5.000 44 0o00 9410 2,(00.000 2.000 2,('0)400 23,00 8,co.) 000 30.000! 150,00 1.500 Mo50.0, 5,000 300 00 3.000 240.(0K) 2,400 160.000 160 5.O,(o1 5....... 200.000 200 80.00...... 70.0..... 181),000 1,800 255,000 2,550 240,0001 2400 265,000 2.650 436,000 4,3oi 500.00 5,000 200,000 2.000 25,000 *2 500 500,00 5.000 84.9,90 8.499 2,000.000 20.000 500 00l 5.000 500,000 65,000 $26,460,990...... (3,. $ 10,000,00 1.00),00 750.000 350.000 178 000 123',10) 42,500 72,500 32,7(0 717.8110 499,000 426,000 20,000 71,100 3,000.000 112,500 12,,000........... 120,000..48,3061........... 193,60u 235,500 l2000 ] 370o,.O q 15C),0(1 161.,10 250.00)o 50(0.0(i 37.510 1,415,000 458,600 253.500 $ 22,011,610;... I i I 25'.000. 122.000........ 300.000....... 126 90........ 157.500...... 24,100 42,000{ 13.000 5.000 20.000 12,200 1,000.. 48.000GO 6.00U 95,000 84.0O(H 62,100 66,800 300,00........ 240.00...... 155,000.................. 188,000... '.'..........'........ 70,000 7.00o0 16,20( 18,800 102. 00 16.400 80,(00 29500........ 54,000........ 14.400 25.50) 150,000 38.500 $2 504,730 $796 780 155,0()X*....5.. }882 t~0 a I'l * < $.c * a> $........... 48,300 1,6(6 5,000 108,100 63,100........ 850 5300 27.700 $28 200 X'q ~' = oQ illi., ', __ 1 *5.000 1.6.400 *1,000 137.000 *1}0,600 $111,800............................... j *5 ) tf.400 *1*W00................... i............o *. -........ t37.00........i........................................... --........ *400~r.........................j...................... tl.~ 2 *J.~so, U- m.... L~~y~U...... t.i.~ L.. __;. ~..t r- r.. ~L_.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~. 142 TO URISTS' G UIDE PLANTATIONS NOT INCORPORATED. MLLa, PLAN ERS AXID.VAT L T. ~Vri*u X PU.LA~T* tI.rt eertP Blit. National(Not Incorporated.) ities. Pbpeekeo Plantation.,.. $ 600.C00........ 400,OUO........ * $200,000 Lthue Plantation........ 1,400 000 $ 925,000....... 47.000....... Pioneer Mill............. 600.000 25o.0(0. 0...... 20,000 W, Y. Horner............ 150000 150000................ (4roVe Farm Plantation. 25.000 250 0 0..................... Haanimaula Plantation. 150 00 150.000.................. Kekaha,tigar Mill 0(...... 0,.0O 66,.000 4....... 134(0... i1 eier & Krus.......... 75.000........ 7,00........ H. P. Faye & Co........ 4.000.............. 40,000 Baluahonu Co........... 10...00 0 5,........ J. N. Wrght............ 50.000 50,000................. R. M Overend........... 80.000 80.000.................... Knkaiau Mill........... 170.000 85.000 P5 000............. Hamakna Plantation.... 200,000................... liulii Mill and Plan.... 0...000 200......... 0.......... Puehuehu Plan. Co. 70.000........ 70,000................ Hawi Mill and Plan..... 250.000......... 250.00............. Beecroft Plantatien... 0....... 60000 60.000............ RKamaloo Plantstion.... 40.030........ 40..00................ Paauhau Plantation.... 500,000 250.000 250.00 5 0................ lHuelo Plantation 1........ 0,00....... 150.000o............... Laie Plantation......... 75. 75,000...................... Halawa Plantaton...... 150.000........ 1o50,JO....... J.. Horner & Sor,.... 76,0 0 75,000........................ T. lB oderick............ 30.000........................ W. H. Purvis t Co..... 'i5,0 75 000......... 0....... W. H. Rickard......... 0..;00........ 0.0................ Eleele Plantation...... 0.),000........ 0000 100.000....... Waialua Plantation.... 25 0.000........ 25 0......... A. H. Smith *., Co....... 40000 40,000......................... Kaneohe Plantation.... 150.0 1000 160...................... Total......... $ 6,205,000 $ 2,31,000 $ 2.33000 $ 1.0:9.000 $ 240,0000 NoTE.-* Indicates Chinese. owners; t Portuguese;, Chilian; I Norwegian. DISTANCES ON OAHU. FROM HONOLULU POST-OFFICE TO Kapiolani Park..................................... 4 miles Ewa Depot by R. R........................................................12 " Koko Head.......................................................................... 10 " Waianae Plantation...........................................................30 " Waialua Post-offlice..................................... 28+ " Nuuanu Pali......................................... 6 " Waimanalo Plantation...................................12 " Kaneohe Court House.................................................... Heeia Plantation.1......................................................... 12 " Kualoa Ranch.....................................................20 Punaluu Rice Plantation.................................................. 26 " Laie Mormon Settlement............................................... 32 " Kahuku Plantation........................................................... 38 " ON THE ISLAND OF MAUI. From Lahalna to Wailuku Post-office................................... 20 miles " Lahaina to Kaanapali....................................................4 " THRO U BH WAtAH. 148 From W ailuku to Maalaea0............................................ 10 miles " Makawao Post-office to summit of Haleakala..............13 ' Wafluk to Ulupalakusf.....................2......,.... " Wailuku to Makawo............................ 14 " Kahului to Wailuku Post-office............................. 3 " Kahului to Makawao........................................... 11 " " Ulupalakua to Hala, via Kaupo.................................45 " " Kahului to Hana (Hamakua route)................... 45 " ON THE ISLAND OF HAWAII. From Kawaihae to Waimea Court House..............................11 miles " Kawaihae to Kohala Plantation................................ 17 " " Waimea Court House to Kohala Plantation..................23 " (" " " "< W aiplo Valley........................10 " " ( " Laupahoehoe.........................30 " "r. t l" ' " Hilo, via Laupahohohoe..........60 < l" " "' Summit of Mauna Kea, via K alaieha................................................................. 40 " From Hilo to Afong's Plantation................................... 10 " " " Crater of K ilauea............................................. 30 " " Waiohinu (Kau).............................................65 " " Crater of Kilauea to Summit Crater of Mauna Loa........35 " '' W aiohinu (Kau) to Kealakekua..............................48 " " Kealakekua Bay to Kailua.....................................13 ",, " tl Summit of Mt. Hualalai................. 25 " Kailua to Kawaihae 3........................................... 30 " " Waiohinu (Kau) to Kapapala.................24 " " " " Summit Crater, via Kapapala........61 " " Hilo to Summit Crater, via Kilauea............................65 ON THE ISLAND OF KATAI. From Lihue to Koloa............................................... 10 miles " Koloa to Eleele................................................. 7 " " " W aim ea......................................................15 " " W aimea to Mana Point.................................. 10 " " Lihue to Wailua Falls............................ "................ 56 " " Kealia Plantation..........14,, *' Kilauea Plantation................................ 22 "," " H analei.................................................... 30 " INTER-ISLAND CHANNELS, ETC. Width of Kauai and Oahu Channel......................................66 miles " Oahu and Molokai Channel............................. 25 " " Molokai and Maui............................... 10 "1 ~' M aui and Lanai.............................................. 9 " Maui and Hawaii..............................................28 " From Honolulu to Lihue Anchorage, Kauai..................... 93. 144 TOURIIST'S' G UID From Honolulu to Lahaina Anchorage.................... 72 miles *( " XKawaihae Anchorage........................140 c" " Kealakekua Anchorage..........................170 " "< " Hilo Bay, via Mahukona............ 220 " (<" " Hilo Bay, direct line........................ 200 " OCEAN DISTANCES. Honolulu to San rancisco..................2100 miles it Tutuila, Samoa.,...................... 2290 " i" Levuka, Fiji.....................................................2708 " "t Auckland, direct...........3...... 814 " l" Otago, via Auckland.................... 4414 " *~ SSydney, direct...........#............................4480 — PLANTATION AND FAMILY USE. <- FO S3AL W aVASTIT1S TO B1T, POS EXPORTATION AND HOME CONSUMPTION. H. HACKFELD & CO., Importers sGommission Merchants, Corner of QCueen and Fort Streets, Honolulu. 3ac'tit citil ttemmEti p (o., Hawaiian Line of Packets to San Francisco, BREMEN LINE OF PACKETS, ETC., AND General Plantation and Insurance Agents. TH.E HAWAIIAN NEWS CO. - IMPORTERS OF Books, Stationery and Musical Instruments AGENTS FOR PUBLISHERS OF Klinker's Rubber Stamps, Prof. Berger's Mele Hawaii, Fairchild's Gold Pens. (Hawaiian Airs, 18 Numbers.) SOLE AGENTS FOR J. and g. Fisher Pianos, -YVose & Sons Pianos, - Story & Glark's cottage Organs. Subscriptions Received for any Magazine o Paper Published. (33) OEO. W. SMITH. H. M. BENSON. BENS8N, SMITH & Ge., WHOLESALE AND RETAIL * 113 and 115 Fort Street, Honolulu. A Full and Complete Line of Drug, ias, Chemicals, Paent Medicines, Toilet Aics,, Soaps, BRUSHES, PERFUMERY, SPONG(ES, TRUSSES, ETC. Photographic Chemicals and Apparatus, Carbutt's Dry Plates and Films, G. Cramer Dry Plates, Eastman's Bromide Paper. REPRESENTING THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY, BLAIR CAMERA COMPANY. Correspondence and Inspection of Stock Solicited. Agents TAHITI LEMONADE WORKS COMPANY, Honolulu, H. 1. I- The Only Steam Soda Works in the Islands."lI Tahiti Lemonade Works Company HONOLULUJ, H. I. MANUFACTURERS OF TAHITI LEMONADE, PLAIN, SWEET AND CREAM SODA, SARSAPARILLA, RASPBERRY, BELFAST GINGER ALE, MINERAL WATERS, ETC. - SOLE PROPEIETORS -O — BAILEY'S SARSAPARILLA AND IRON WATER, A Healthful and Strengtheping Beverage. All Water used is Carefully and Thoroughly Filtered through the Most Approved Form of Filters. \Vorks, No. 23 Nuuanu Street.. BENSON, SMITE & CO., Agents. (34) Hawaiiai Gornpercial aipd Sugar Go., DEALERS IN ALL KINDS OF DRY GOODS AND GROCERIES, Hardware, Perfumery, Saddlery, Assorted General Merchandise, Grain, Hay, Etc., TELEPHONE No. 2. A. F. HOPKE, MANAGER. A. ENOS & CO., DEALERS IN Potatoes from Kula and Island Butter for Sale. Telephone No. 24. W AILUKU. FAIRVIEW HOTEL, bIHUE, KAUAI. A Resort for Tourists and Travelers, situated about a mile from Nawiliwili, upon the slope of a hill. The Hotel is 40x26, with 8-ft. veranda round the house. On the first floor is a large reception room, light and airy dining room and a cosy billiard room. In the rear of these rooms is the culinary department, which is fitted up with all conveniences. The second floor is devoted to sleeping rooms, six in all. Bath room, with hot and cold water. e 1tel is One of le Coov eint Resorts for Tourists Connected with the Hotel is a LIVERY STABLE, Where Saddle Horses or Teams for Excursion Parties can be Procured. The Proprietor has' Spared neither Money or Pains to make "THE FAIRVIEW" the Best Hotel on the Islands. C. W. SPITZ. (35) D. J-OWARD J-fITCHCOCK, tt-S.-t- -o d '~- TrT STUDIO, 95 HOTEL ST., HONOLULU, Where Views of the Crater of Kilauea and I1land Scenery can be Seen. i i WING WO TAI & CO., IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN NUUANU ST., HONOLULU. RECEIVE BY EVERY VESSEL FROM HONGKONG AND YOKOHAMA, Silks in Assorted Colors, Chinese Porcelain Dinner and Tea Sets, Japanese Cabinets, Trays, Screens, Tortoise Shell Glove and Handkerchief Boxes, Tortoise Shell Tea Tables, Card Receivers, Paper Cutters, Salad Forks and Spoons, Bronze Inkstands, Fans, Etc., Etc. A. L. SvMITHS NEW STORE. i> < NEW COODS. - The Public are Invited to Visit my New Premises and Inspect the Large and Varied Assortment of — s Consisting in Part of 6 -"Wire 0oocLs, Tapaxr.ese crOods, Toilet articles, Outlery, 3Ito. DOMESTIC SEWING MCHINES AND PAPER FASHIONS ALWAYS ON HAND. - LAYA SPECIMENS AND CURIOS. --- A SPECIAL LINE OF OPTICAL GOODS. Call and et a Test Circular for Your Eyesight. (36) t \ B g g1 E t - = I = @ r ~.1 i!;ui I; i.` Nuua ~u Awpargu H op lu. ~tieo fitrt-~lat Smile uj tol Situate in the Most Pleasant Part of the City, continues to offer the comforts of a home to transients and others. Adjoining the main building are several new cottages, specially constructed for family use. Table unsurpassed. Tramcars run past the front entrance. RATES, $2.00 PER DAY; $12,00 PER WEEK, SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR MONTHLY BOARDERS. T. E. KROUSE, - - - Proprietor.; O^TOX4X3LiX, S3-.:I. I (37) TLHl MHAL IILIT@ L King St., near 'ort Zt., Hon2olulu. THIS is the Most Centrally Located Hotel in the City, built of Stone, having Large and Airy Rooms and Broad Verandas, is Lighted with Electricity, and provided with Every Modern Convenience. The Table is provided with the Best that the Honolulu and San Francisco Mlarkets can furnish. Guests will find Every Want Supplied and are made to Feel at Home. A Branch of this Establishment, a Delightful Family Seaside Resort, is located on the Charming Beach at Waikiki, two and a half mniles from The Ham7ilton, and is known as the -%WML06ULU VOLBtLAUoGuests at either house can arrange to have their Meals at the Seashore or in towun at The Hamilton. The Finest Surf Bathing on the Island. Street Cars pass both houses every half hour, asnd connect with every part of the city. HAMILTON JOHINSON, PROPRIETOR.. I' I I W m 1|1~~~~~~~~~~~~o { | - st,12\ s1~~~~~~~~3 az.~~~~~~~~~'.,.- -a,,'7 -_ |<-....I= t38) }t~ E — ~ /L- COIAPANY. The Oahu Railway and Land Company have just completed TWO RSPRSVOIRS, with a Storage Capacity of neaely 2)000,000 Gallons of Water, Streets are laid out 60 to 80 feet in width, Building Lots, 75 100 feet and some larger, All now offered for Sale) with PUt E WATER f UAP ANTATIE by the Oahu Raitway and Land ComptMny at Government Ratesa The supply of Water now under control of the Company is nearly equal to the supply for the city of Honolulu. The Land for Sale by the Railway Company extends from the point of a Peninsula, projecting one and a half mites south from the main land into Pearl Harbor, to the top of the Koolau Moun. tain Range, Thie Peninsula contains an area of 227 acres of ('89) heavily wooded land, with a water frontage of nearly three miles. A branch of the Railway will soon reach this property, and skillful tree cutting, trimming and clearing will make this a charming Grove the Favorite Watering Place and Picnic Ground for all lovers of such resorts. A Cottage near the shore of this wonderful inland sea will be a luxury indeed to those who are fortunate enough to secure a lot whereon to build. BEAUTIFUL VIEWVV. Those desiring lots where the most charming view can be had from the veranda of cottage or mansion can obtain lots fronting Lehua Avenue, commencing at a hundred yards above Pearl City Station, to a distance of one mile or more towards the mountain top. The Price of the Land and Easy Terms of Payment: ONE-TIIIHRD IN CASH, BALANCE IN THREE AND FIVE YEARS, A T SEVEN PER CENT., will make it possible for the most limited in means to buy ct home. The Company will bind themselves in the Deed to Carry Purchasers and their Families to and from Pearl City at ONE CENT PER MILE, SECOND CLASS, and ONE AND A HALF CENTS PER MILE FPIRST CLASS, for a term of Nine Years from September 1, 1890. These Speciat Rates of Fare will be transferable with the property during the term named in the original deed. B. F. DILLI1NyHAMJ General Manager 0. R, & L. Co, 40) I, ~.J w sF.*% 109 FORT ST., HONOLULU, H.I. ~l^run~ anb Chmical~S, W PHOTOGIRAPSTE C GOODS, - AMERICAN AND J-IAVANA e.IGARS, QIGARPTTES AND TOBACCOS, -- OF EVERY' D8CRIPTIONLU..- IMPORTED MINERAL WATERS. *r. *Oe R 1 ~ ',. ' t. 'ri I' b; tf I; 11 ................. I l g l l —.x~~~~~~~~~~~~~rrrrrx>.x..x.XX Wr.. X~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~g.X is~~g..X..rrr~r | | l l X~~~~~~~~~~xXX~~~~~~x~~iig~~~~~l.__,.X X~~~~~~~~~~g~~lg~~~~gg_;X xxWXi:~iii~i-r~~g Illl ~ $1 I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l oi~~~~~~~~~~~~~ '~~~~~~ \~~~~~~~~~ 1 1 k~~~~~~~~O FAA,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I -11 1 - I I 1. - 11-1 -,'N,,,, -,, *1,,, I'',, TW,,I,,, 4 'i,, _04I I ---- I IZ - -— l ll_I 1-.1,I, I11 ", -c, ,,.f,-. III, — I ygy, F," , " Iyl,,,,,I,, 1, S I:W ,, I,_.,__, -,,I - V 1M,.,,'.II.- III A ,I -, ,4,4,,, 'Ili 5, II,,,fii,,,,,,-,,:,,,,i,,,,,'' I-l -1 _V a, ,,,,,, "",, _- - -",, Z,16, ,0,' —,,_ M,,,I*0I I",11WI,', ,,,, -,,3 "",,TI'V''I'll"IN 11-, I i" " M I-y,,. _,,,Wr, 4`,,,-,1,'.",!',,,f, ',!. 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