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JOURNAL
op
A RESIDENCE
IN THE
SANDWIC'H ISLANDS,
DURLCNG THE
YEARS 1823, 1824, AND 1825'
INCLUDING
i~ESCRIPTIONS OF THE NATURAL SCENERY, AND REMARKSN
ON THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS; AN ACCOUNT OF LORD BYRON'S VISIT
IN THE BRITISHf FRIGATE BLONDE, AND OF,N EXCURSION TO THE GREAT VOL.CANO OF KIRAUEA IN HAWAII.
BY C. S. STEWART,
LATE MISSIONARY AT THE SANDWICH    IL.AND.S
SECOND EDITION,
CORRECTED AND ENLARGED;
WtITI1 AN INTRODUCTION AND NOTES,
By REV. WIXZlAWL    M ELLtZIS
FROM TXIl FIRST LONDON EDITION.;?
NEW YORK:
JOHN P, HAVEN, 142 NASSAU STREET,.AKND G. AND C. CARVILL: PHILADELPHIA-TOWER AND HOGAIN 
CAREY, LEA, AND CAREY: BALTIMORE-CUSHtING AND JEWITT:
WASHINGTON-PISHEY TIOIMPSON: BOSTON' ---ILLIARD, 6IRAY, AND
CO.: PORTLAND-SHIIlLET AND HYDE.
1i28.




%1             11


4 X, 4


/72?
WE.eakP.-?'LL 
X -Cr.4 o a


Sleighlt George, Printers, Jamaica




.V) *4-(.
TO
THE HONOURABLE
SAMUEL LEWIS SOUTHARD,
SECRETARY OF THE NAVY
OF THE
UNITED STATES.
DEAR SIR,-The Journal, now committed to the press,
was originally written, for the perusal of yourself and a
few other intimate friends. I avail myself, with great
pleasure, of the opportunity afforded by its publication, to
acknowledge my gratitude for your friendship, at a period
of life, when the guardianship of the wise is most essential. To the confidence and affectionate counsels re.
ceived from you, in my early youth, I attribute benefits to
myself of the highest value-benefits, which must ever
make your name and character, dear to the best feelings
of, 
Your sincere Friend,
CHARLES SAMUEL STEWART.




AA




ADVERTISEMENT..-2:.


IN leaving the United States for the Sandwich Islands,
I bade farewell, as I then thought, to my country for ever;
and felt it a duty to transmit to those most deeply interested in my destiny, a minute account of the scenes and
events of a voluntary exile. With this view, the following Journal was addressed to the lady of J. M. Bowers,
Esquire, of Bowerstvwn, Otsego, New York, in the expectation of its being read by other family connections
and personal friends.
In the number of the last was the Rev. Dr. Green,
during whose Presidency of the College of New Jersey,
I had the privilege of being a student at Nassau HaII; and
to whose ministry of the Gospel, in the grace of God, I
trace the origin of the principles and affections which
resulted in my becoming a Missionary to the heathen.
By this gentleman, extracts from the manuscript were
introduced into the pages of the Christianitlocate of
Philadelphia; others appeared in the Herald bf the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, at
Boston; and both gave rise to various and repeated ap1 *



ADVERTISBMENT.


plications, on my arrival in America, for the publication
of the whole in a connected form.
It was believed, that a record of facts and circumstances, made, at te time of their occurrence, for the
gratification of private friends only; and necessarily unfolding the motives, feelings, pursuits, and success of
those engaged in the Missionary enterprise, would have a
salutary influence. To prepare a document of the kind
for the public eye, so as to guard, on the one hand,
against an obtrusion of points too private and personal
for general perusal; and, on the other, against an obliteration so fastidious, as to take from the work its original
and appropriate character, I foresaw must prove a delicate task. But the prospect of an advantage, however
slight, to a cause to which I have devoted my life, has
been sufficient to induce the experiment.
The original manuscript was written under every disadvantage of place and circumstances; and its highest
pretension was that of a true delineation of scenes and
characters, as they passed before me: in assuming a
printed form, it can prefer no other claim. The only
alteration I have made, in a hasty and interrupted revisal
of the original, is that of collecting, in some cases, under
a Single date, remarks and facts upon the same subject
found under several; and, in one or two instances only,




ADVERTISEMENT.               VII
that of adding, from other memoranda, matter never
transmitted to America, the introduction of which became necessary for the elucidation of points which otherwise could be but imperfectly understood.
Trusting to the kindness of my readers, on the point
which has given me most anxiety-the extent of erasure
desirable,-without other apology than the explanation
given, I cheerfully place the volume in their handr.
JNew York, January 1, 1828.




gwn




CONTENTS.


PAGE
ALDVERTISEMENT.......       V
INTRODUCTION........        xiii
CHAPTER I.
Historical Sketch of the Sandwich Islands...   19
CHAPTER II.
Pass Montauk Point, and lose sight of Block Island-Gale in the
Gulf Stream-First Sabbath at Sea-Speak the ship PennThoughts on Missions-Arrangement of time-Moonlight at sea
-Visit the ship Winslow-Crews of American whale shipsBlackfish-Manner of taking whale-Pass the Cape de Verd
Islands-Scene after a squall-The Dolphin-its beauty when
dying-Water Spout-Phosphoretic Light-its Cause..   28
CHAPTER III.
Cross the equator-Slave ship-Flying fish-Beauty of the weather-Speak ship Hebe-Alarming squall-Gale off the Rio de
la Plata-interesting incident at its close-Whale-Reach the
Brazil Banks-Preparations for Cape Horn-Make Staten
Land, and arrive off the Cape..                      42
CHAPTER IV.
Passage round Cape Horn-Seriousness of the crew-Speak the
brig Tiber-Beauty of the sky off Peru-A Sabbath at sea-A
sailor's definition of faith-Monthly union of prayer-Make the
Island of Hawaii-Evening scene.....   5
CHAPTER V.
Morning view of Hawaii-First visit from the Islanders-Sail by
Maui-Tahurawe -- Ranai and Morokai-their distant appearance-Make the Island of Oahu-its beauty-Anchor off the
port of Honoruru-Visit on shore, and interview with the Missionaries-Worship at the Mission Chapel-Excursion to Wai.
titi-Native costume-Thames enters the harbour —Presenta



I  *   -


CONTENTS.


tion of the reinforcement to the king and chiefs-Description
of the palace, and the principal chiefs-Historical notice of King
Taumuarii-The Prime Minister Karaimoku-Visit of the king
to the Thames-His letter to Captain Clasby-Services of the
first Sabbath —Establishment on shore-Departure of the
Thames                                                    63
CHAPTER VI.
Festial in honour of Tamehameha-Car of Tamehamaru-Fete
of Paiali-Prince and Princess-Son:s and dances-Hints on
the native language-Examples in orthography and orthoepyPeerage of Hawaii-Significance of names-Unnatural affinity
of the chiefs-Government-Revenue of the king-Resources
of the chiefs-their personal appearance-customs-mannersdress-habitations —households —employment of time, and
moral character.....                       84
CHAPTER VII
State of the common people-Taro-its nature and manner of
cultivation-Native cooking -Poe-manner of making and eating it-Occupations of the men-Manufacture of native cloth
-its variety and colours-Manufacture of mats-General
character of the common people-Foreign residents-their influence-Visits to Kaahumanu and Kapiolani-Chief women of
rank-Scenes on the Sabbath-Supper of the king-Designation
to Lahaina, on the Island of Maui.. 104
CHAPTER VIII.
Voyage to Maui-Arrival at Lahaina-View from the anchorageReception from Mr. Butler, an American resident-First Sabbath at Maui-Commencement of instruction-Kindness of
Karaimoku and Keopuolani-Description of Lahaina-Practicability of Missions-Native manner of building-Hura-hura,
or native dance-Custom of conferring names-Reflections on
the general aspect of things at Lahaina-Erection of a chapel
-Arrival of RihoRiho-Hi revelry-Scene at evening prayers
-Decision of Christian character in Keopuolani-Presentation
of a tax to RihoRiho-Case of opthalmia-Conversations on
the Sabbath-Occupation of the Mission House-Arrival of
chiefs-Description of the tutui-tree, and torches of the nutDedication of the chapel..... 12f




CONTENTS.


Xi


CHAPTER IX.
Illness of Keopuolani-Custom of wailing-Auna, a Tahitian
Chief and Missionary-Death of a foreigner by drowningArrival of Mr. and Mrs. Elis-Customary outrages at the death
of a high ciief-Aiarm occasioned y tie fainting of the queenher baptism-death and character-evidences of personal piety,
and dying thoughts-Customary expressions of grief by the
people-A waling scene-Former mode of burial-Introduction of Christian funeral services-Erection of a monument to
the queen-Unhappy instances oi tr.e ilniuence of foreignersVisit to Oal u-  oi;ag. in native vessels-Introduction of Christian marriage-Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Thurston-General
council of chiefs-and embarkation of RihoKiho and suite for
England... 15;
CHAPTER X.
Exposure to fire, and other disadvantages of native houses-Situation in times of sickness-A first instance of punishment for theft
-the prevalence of this vice-cases of adroitness in the perpetration of it-Notices of the Chiefs Kaikioeva and Keaweamahi
-and of Puaiti, the blind man-Treatment of a ManiacGeneral traits of cruelty-Crime of infanticide-An eclipse of
the moon, and apprehensions excited by it-Visit from Missionaries-Sports of the surf-Increase of interest in the arts of
reading and writing-Domestic improvement among the chiefs
-An evening scene-Encouragements of the Missionary lifeThe pule anana, or prayer of death-General fears of superstition.........     17 
CHAPTER XI.
Tempestuous weather-Distribution of hymln-books-Situation in
a storm-Ramble towards the mountains-Intelligence from
America —Native manner of expressing attachment-Pari, or
precipice of Kolau-Tragic fate of a party of warriors-Meeting
for religious conversation-Gratitude fe instruction-Vineyard
of Mr. Marini-Visit to a Salt Lake-Death of Taumuariihis charactep —funeral-Instance of superstition-Burning of
the chapel-Visit to a sick sailor-A ride to Waititi-Ruins of
a He-iau, or idolatrous temple-Excursion to the mountainsScenery in Oahu —Description of the bread-fruit-Funeral of
an American-Visit to Mr. and Mrs. Ellis..                 19




Xiu                      CONTESNTS.
CHAPTER XII.
Palace of the priae minister- Rebellion at Tauai-Fate of a rebel
chief-Return to Lahaina-Prevalence of drunkenness-Mokumoku, or boxing matches-Native games-Introduction of
schools among the farmers-Proclamation of laws by Kaahumanu —Domestic scenes-Temperature and climate of the Islands-Visit from Mr. Hoffman of the Russian corvette Pretpriatie-Mr. Chamberlain-Anecdote of Mr. Hoffman.       227
CHAPTER XIII.
Voyage to Oahu —Visit on board the Russian corvette Pretpriatie —
Services of the Greek church-Departure of the PretpriatieIntelligence of the death of the king and queen in EnglandAlarming illness of Mrs. Stewart-Arrival of a British Consul
-Arrival of H. B. M. ship Blonde-Landing of Governor Boki
and party-Presentation of Lord Byron and suite to the government-Landing of the bodies of the king and queen, and funeral procession-Contemplated voyage to Hawaii-Kindness of
Lord Byron..... 
CHAPTER XIT.
Voyage to Hawaii in H. B. M. ship Blonde-Evening sceneBeauty of the district of Hido-Enter the harbour of Waiakea
-Removal on shore-Morning view of Mounakea-Visit to a
fish-pond, and to the cascades in the river Wairuku-Chapel,
and style of native building, at Hido-Journey to the volcano
of Kirauea-Encampment at evening-First view of the crater-Exhibitions of the night-descent into the crater-passage across its bottom-ascent-new eruption-Departure, and
return to Byron Bay.....26.
CHAPTER XV.
Increased illness of Mrs. Stewart-Re-embark on board the Blonde
-Return to Oah&-Departure of the Blonde-Arrival of the
ship Fawn-Determinatini to embark for England-Farewell
visit to Maui-Peculiar situation of Mr. and Mrs. RichardsOutrage of a British whale ship-Heroism of Mrs. RichardsDeparture from Maui-Embarkation for London..       29




INTRODUCTION.
FROM THE LONDON EDITION.
IN the course of the last eight or nine years, public attention, in Europe and America, has been frequently directed to the SANDWICH
ISLANDS. The demolition of the ancient temples-the destruction of
the idols-the renunciation of the national religion in 1819, and the
establishment of a Christian Mission among them early in the following
year, were events remarkable and important, in the estimation of all who
take an interest in the propagation of Christianity throughout the world.
The discovery of vast numbers of sperm whales, first in the Northern
Pacific, and afterwards on the coast oi Japan, has occasioned an increase of the shipping accustomed to resort for repairs and refreshments
to the Sandwich Islands, to so great a degree, that instead of a few uncertain calls, not less than one hundred vessels touch at the Islands in
the course of a year. The visits they have received from Capts. Dc
Freycinet, Vasselieu, and Kotzebue, in the French and Russian ships of
discovery, which have recently traversed the Pacific, together with the
more subsequent ones of Lord Byron and Capt. Jones in British and
American vessels of war-the peculiar facilities afforded by their local
situation, to the important and growing commerce which the establishment of the South American states has now opened between the western shores of the new continent, and the eastern parts of India and
China-have naturally attracted the attention of Europe and America,
and probably rendered a settlement among these interesting Islands an
object of desire with more than one maritime power of the present day.
In addition to these circumstances, a project so bold and patriotic as
that of the Rulers of a people, with whom we had been accustomed
onlf to associate ideas of all that was degrading in ignorance, and
ferocious in savage life, traversing a distance greater than half the circumference of our globe, in order to visit and behold for themselves a country whose fame had long reached their distant and isolated shores,-with
the sincere desire to improve the condition of a nation, which Providence
had committed to their government and care,-justly attracted no ordinary attention. The dignified propriety of their manners, and the mild
2




X1v                   INTRODUCTION.
benevolence of their dispositions, were not less agreeable, than their
complexion, language, native costume, and the varied productions of
their countryiwhich they brought, were curious and strange. The interest produced by their visit was evinced in the general sympathy awakened by their illness and death, and by the apprehension, almost unn
versly entertained, that suspicion would arise in the minds of the aft
fectionate people whom they had left behind, that they had fallen victims
to some unfair treatment in England, and, perhaps, had suffered in revenge for the death of Capt. Cook, who had been murdered, half a century before, on their own shores. The costly and delicate respect shown
by the British government to the bereaved nation, in despatching the
Blonde frigate, commanded by a nobleman, to convey the bodies of the
King and Queen, that they might be deposited in the sepulchres of their
ancestors, and that the nation might have the melancholy satisfaction of
paying the last tribute of affection to the remains of their departed
rulers, tended in no small degree to give a salutary direction to the sensations to which their sudden decease had given birth. These combined
circumstances have secured to the Sandwich Islands a greater degree of
attention, than had been manifested since the announcement of their
discovery, or the publication of those fascinating accounts of their natural beauty, and the interesting circumstances of their inhabitants, which
were at that period given to the public.
The pleasing, and in many instances decisive change that has taken
place in the moral and religious state of the people, is by no means the
least important circumstance connected with the Sandwich Islands. It
has furnished occasion for grateful acknowledgments to Almighty God,
from all who duly appreciate the benefits conferred by our holy religion
on any nation by which it is received, whether barbarous or civilized.
It has afforded fresh encouragement to all interested or engaged in its
propagation throughout the world, and has augmented the evidence already possessed, of the adaptation of Christianity to improve the condition of mankind, and its tendency to elevate their intellectual and moral character, and to ameliorate their present condition, whilst it inspires
them with the hopes of immortality.
The recent publication of the narrative of the Blonde's voyage, and
some other works relating to the Sandwich Islands, together with the
varioti letters and journals which have, at intervals, appeared in several
literary and religious periodicals, have sustained in a great degree the
interest in those Islands, which the preceding events inspired.
The writer of the following sheets is one of a small body of Mis



INtRODUCTION.                       XV
sionaries from America, who were led to those Islands, for the purpose
of attempting to communicate to the unenlightened minds of the inhabitants the principles of human knowledge and inspired truth.
*?&    *  *  *     *      *     *     *.     * 
After the ample details already noticed respecting the Sandwich
Islands, any further accounts might appear superfluous; but during the
period of Mr. Stewart's residence there, events transpired, of deeper
interest and higher importance, than those that had happened in any
former period of their history. Of these, so far as they came under his
own observation, Mr. Stewart has given a faithful account; and though
many of the details necessarily resemble those on the same subjects,
contained in the Voyage of the Blonde, and the Tour of Hawaii, yet it
will not, perhaps, be uninteresting to combine the narratives given on
the other side of the Atlantic, with those which have already appeared
in our own country. Much, however, of the matter contained in Mr.
Stewart's volume is entirely new; and his letters respecting the Sandwich Island Mission,* which have appeared in the Appendix to Mr.
Orme's Defence of the Missions in the Pacific, art so clear and satisfactory, that they must have pre-disposed all by whom they have been
read, to feel interested in the perusal of whatever, in connexion with
these Islands, may proceed from his pen.
*      *     *     *     *      *     * 4    t     *
Respecting the establishment of the first permanent mission in Hawaii
and Maui; the conversion, baptism, and death of Keopuolani, the first
Hawaiian convert; the first admission of natives to the Christian
church; the remarkable and general attention paid to instruction; the
character of the present young prince and princess of the Sandwich
Islands; the determination of the late King to visit Great Britain; the
flagrant outrages of several Europeans, who have visited the Islands;
the first intelligence received by the natives of the death of the King
and Queen; the arrival of the bodies of the deceased sovereign and his
consort; the honourable conduct of Lord Byron; the circumstances
connected with the visit of the Blonde; and the eruption of the great
volcano, which took place during an excursion, which, in companywith
Lord Byron and a party of officers and gentlemen from the Blonde, he
made to this grand and stupendous natural phenomenon;-Mr. Steart
has furnished a mass of information that cannot fail to be deeply biteresting.
* In answer to the London Quarterly Review, and copied from the
Boston Daily Advertiser. 




Xvi


INTRODUCTION,


The progress of Christianity among the people, and their gradual improvement in morality, intelligence, and civilization, have not been less
decisive and encouraging since the departure of Mr. Stewart, than they
were during his residence in the Islands. Since his return, the instruction of the inhabitants has produced so rapid an advancement in the acquisition of useful knowledge, as to awaken feelings of astonishment
and delight. On the island of Maui, in the year 1826, not less than
eight thousand scholars received instruction in the schools; and it was
presumed, that, with a larger supply of books, the number might be increased. Forty schools existed in Hawaii; and the Missionaries, in
writing to America, express their conviction, that had they the means of
extending their schools, 10,000 might, in the course of the year, be
taught to read with facility and correctness the word of God, in their
own language. Early in the same year, sixty-nine schools, containing
between two and three thousand scholars, attended a public examination
at Ionouru. And during the preceding year, 1825, 78,400 spelling
books and tracts had issued from the press. In January, 1827, the
schools in the same island contained 8303 scholars. The translation of
the Gospel by Matthew was finished about the same time, and, having
been revised by the Missionaries, was sent to America, where it will probably be printed by the American Bible Society, and forwarded to the
Islands; 20,000 copies of which, it is estimated, may be advantageously
distributed among the people of Hawaii alone.
The progress of a work so decisive in its nature, and so extensive in
iis influence, affecting not only the religious, civil, and political institutions of the people, but changing entirely the principles and habits
which had heretofore marked their intercourse with those by whom they
were occasionally or periodically visited, would, it was natural to expect, be branded with opprobrium, and resisted with virulence, by those
whose interests it would oppose, and whose inclinations it would restrain.
This has been the case; and, indeed, had it not been so, the moral
change that has taken place in these Islands, would have wanted one of
the strongest demonstrations of that unequivocal origin and character
under which it now appears before the world. Some account of the
nature and causes of the opposition to that process, which is now
rapidly transforming the face of Hawaiian society, will be met with in the
following sheets. Numerous additional instances might be cited, were
it necessary, to show the influence of Missionary efforts in restraining
the vices, and proportionably diminishing the miseries, of the people.
But I am convinced, that those recorded in Mr. Stewart's volume, with
others  eady before the public, will be sufficient to remove whatever




INTRODUCTION.


xvii


erroneous impressions may have hereby been made, from any minds
open to conviction, and influenced in reference to Missionary efforts,
only by the simple declarations of honest truth. I was recently informed by an officer, who, in his Majesty's ship Cornwallis, visited
Hawaii some few years ago, that not less than 400 females came on
board the vessel, on the night of her anchoring in one of the harbours;
but such is the change since that time, that when the Blonde arrived,
not one female ascended her sides. Yet so violent has the opposition
been in the Islands, that the persons and the lives of the Missionaries
have only been safe under the protection of bodies of armed natives,
by whom their dwellings have been surrounded and defended.
The most injurious misrepresentations have also been circulated both
in England and America, by those from whom better things might have
been expected; and it is greatly to be regretted, that a leading literary
journal,* in our own metropolis, should have so far indulged its prejudices, as even to hazard its claim to public confidence in the correctness
of its communications, by giving its authority as the verification of a
document, bearing the marks of improbability and self-refutation on the
very front of its assertions. It will be evident that I refer to the fabricated Letter from Boki, the chief, and which appeared in the beginning
of 1827.  Convinced, as soon as I saw the Letter, that it had not been
written by the individual whose name was appended to it, I communicated to the Editor my reasons for believing he had been mistaken, at
least, in supposing it genuine. In the following number I received a
public reply, asserting, " that the Letter certainly did come from the
Sandwich Islands," (which I had never questioned,) and stating at the
same time, " that its genuineness neither has been, nor is, doubted either
by the officer of the Blonde who received it, or by his Captain."  This
statement being at entire variance with a communication I had received
from Lord Byron personally, I wrote to ask his Lordship's opinion, and
received shortly afterwards, in reference to that part of my letter, the
fbllowing reply:"You ask my opinion respecting the Letter said to be written by our
friend Boki, and signed with his name. I have no hesitation in saying,
that I do not believe Boki either wrote or dictated that Letter. It is not
his manner of expressing himself, and you are aware that he can
scarcely form his letters. I do not mean to say, that the Letter did not
come from the Islands, but it certainly was manufactured by some other
person."
* London Quarterly Review.
2*




,XVIi                  INTRODUCTION.
i answer, which his Lordship has so obligingly returned, is decio
sive, and^   mtost distinctly the snare into which the Editor of the
Quarter         has fallen on this point, as well as on other matters
in relatio  the Sandwich Islands. I should not have alluded to these
facts, but from the connexion in which they stand with this volume; and
from the republication of the supposititious Letter from the Islands in
other periodicals, and the daily papers, and the extensive circulation thus
given to it through the country. It is, therefore, an act of justice to
give the public the means of correcting any erroneous opinion which
may have been formed; although, to every unprejudiced mind, the Letter itself would convey an antidote to the poison it was designed to
instil.
W. ELLIS.
loxvton Colege,.lpril 2, 182S.




CHAPTER I.


HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
THE Sandwich Islands are situated in the North Pacific
Ocean, between 18 deg. 50 min. and 22 deg. 20 min.
north latitude, and between 154 deg. 53 min. and 160 deg.
15 min. west longitude, from Greenwich. They are about
2800 miles distant from the coast of Mexico on the Eastabout 5000 from the shores of China on the West-and
2700 from the Society Islands on the South.
The Islands are ten in number, stretching, as may be
seen from the chart, in a flattened curve, E. s. E. and w.
N. w. in the following order: HA-WAI-I, MAU-I, MO-ROKINI, TA-HU-RA-WE, RA-NAI, MO-RO-KAI, O-A-1lU, TAUAI, NI-HAU, and TAU-RA.
HA-WAI-I, the most southern and eastern Island, is the
largest of the group. It is about ninety-seven miles long,
-seventy-eight broad-covering a surface of 4000 square
miles-and containing 85,000 inhabitants.
MAU-I lies N. w. from Hawaii, and is separated from it
by a channel twenty-four miles wide. This island formed
by two mountainous peninsulas, connected by a narrow
neck of low land, is forty-eight miles long, and, at its
greatest width, twenty-nine miles wide. It covers about
600 square miles, and is supposed to have a population of
20,000 people.
Mo-RO-KINI is a barren rock, rising only fifteen or
twenty feet above the level of the ocean, at a distance of
four or five miles from the western shore of the southern
peninsula of Maui. TA-HU-RA-WE lies in the same direction from Maui, six or eight miles beyond Morokini. It
is only eleven miles long and eight broad, and has but few;;
inhabitants.




22


HISTORICAL SKETCH '


the king to foreigners, opened the way to a safe and increasing intercourse with the American and European nations. The number of vessels, especially of American
mtcthantmen, touching at the Sandwich Islands, soon became very considerable: and the discovery of the protected and excellent harbour of Honoruru, in the islaI of
Oahu, which had escaped the vigilant search of Vancver
in his survey of the coast, caused them to become to ships
in general, traversing the North Pacific, a place of resort
for undergoing repairs —obtaining water and other refreshments.
Sandal wood-an article of value in the Chinese market
— was discovered in the mountains of the different islands,
and soon became the means on the part of Tamehameha
of extensive commerce with foreigners. The articles of
barter first given in exchange by traders were of the rudest
kind-such as pieces of iron hoop, nails, coarse cloth, &c.
&c. Then knives, hatchets and axes-guns, muskets,
and ammunition-and eventually whole cargoes of rich
American Chinese goods-and vessels of various sizes,
from small schooners to brigs of upwards of a hundred
tons burden.
By this intercourse with the inhabitants of other nations,
— by the partial introduction among the chiefs, of European and Asiatic manufactures-by the erection of fortifications —and by the purchase, equipment, and manage,
ment of ships-promise was given of, at least, a degree of
fiture civilization.
Early in the present century, the natives began, occasionally, to enter into the service of foreign vessels as seamen, and in this manner several made their way to the
United States. In this number was Obookiah-an individual whose name aud character is now extensively
known, and whose wanderings were made, in the wise
providence of God, to result in consequences of unspeakable importance, not only to himself, but to his
whole nation.
This lad arrived at the city of New-York in the year
1809; and, shortly afterwards, became an inmate of the
family of the commander of the ship in which he made
this voyage, at New-Haven, Connecticut. He was




OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.


naturally of an observing and inquisitive mind; and the
wide contrast, presented by a civilized and Christian
people, with the ignorant and degraded idolaters of his own
nation, made a deep impression upon him. Having
learned the design of the extended edifices of Yale College, hefrequently visited the grounds of that institution, and
was at length discovered weeping at the entrance of one of
the buildings. The cause of his tears was ascertained to
be a sense of his own ignorance, and an anxious desire for
instruction.  A gentleman of intelligence and piety immrediately received him as a private pupil. He made rapid advances in knowledge-became a sincere convert to Christianity-and, fired with zeal for the salvation of his countrymen, began to qualify himself to return to his native islands, for the purpose of making known the existence of the
only true God, and the redemption that is in Jesus Christ.
The character of Obookiah was early reported to the
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missionsa society formed in the year 1810, for the propagation of
the Gospel among the Heathen. This information led
to the establishment of an institution at Cornwall, Connecticut-called the " Foreign Mission School" —for the
education of pagan youth found on our shores, preparatory
to their being returned, as teachers, to their respective
countries. Here Obookiah was placed; and other Sandwich Islanders were found, and entered on the same
foundation.
Among them was a young chief, George Tamoree, son
of Taumuarii, the tributary king of Tauai. Eight or ten
years previously, his father had sent him, when only nine
years old, to America to be educated. The sea-captain
who had charge of him had been provided by the king with
the means of meeting the necessary expenditures, but
dying suddenly, within the year of his arrival, without
designating these funds, they were lost in the wreck of
his own fortune. George, permitted to wander from a
school at which he had been placed, enlisted in the naval
service of the United States. On his discharge, at the
close of the late war, he was discovered at the navy-yard
at Charlestown, Massachusetts; identified as the son of
Taumuarii; and removed to Cornwall for education.
00m"




24


HIISTORICAL SKETCH


Obookiah, unhappily, as was thought, for the proposed
introduction of Christianity at the Sandwich Islands, died
before completing his course of instruction, in February,
11818. But the event excited so great and so general an
interest in the American churches, that by it the way becamei more speedily prepared for sending a christian mission to his native shores, than might otherwise have been
the case; and, in the autumn of 1819, a company of Missionaries, under the patronage of the American Board of
Commissioners for Foreign Missions, embarked from the
city of Boston for that destination.
It consisted of the Rev. Mr. Bingham, and Rev. Mr.
Thurston, ordained ministers of the Gospel; Mr. Ruggles
and Mr. Whitney, catechists and teachers; Dr. Holman
a physician, Mr. Loomis a printer, and Mr. Chamberlain
an agriculturist, all married men. And of the Sandwich
Islanders, John Honorii, Thomas Hopu, William Tenui,
and George Tamoree. George was returned to his father, by the Missionary Society, as a passenger only,
without any official connection with the mission family.
The affecting death of Capt. Cook, and the massacre of
several other foreigners at a later period, had deeply impressed the public mind with a belief that the Sandwich
slanders were more barbarous and sanguinary than most
other Islands of the Pacific. The unvarying testimony of
voyagers who had visited them, when consulted in reference to the contemplated mission, had been-" The
natives are too much addicted to their pagan customs
ever to give them up. They will never abandon their
sacrifices and tabus. The Missionaries may attempt to
convert them, but they can never succeed; they will be
robbed and driven away, even if they escape violence
and death."
It was with just reason, therefore, that the Society under
whose auspices this enterprise had been projected, waited
with deep solicitude for the period when they might hear
of the arrival of this devoted company at their destination,
and of the character of their reception by the people.
Seventeen months elapsed before this anxiously desired
moment came. But, though the suspense had been long,




OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.           25
it was broken by sounds of gladness, which yet vibrate
joyfully on the ears of many, who look for the coming of
the kingdom of God.
The Missionaries had not only made the islands in
safety, but the first word of intelligence that reached their
vessel was in the astonishing, and, to them, overwhelming
exclamation, "THEE CODS OF HAWAII ARE NO MORE! —
TAMEHAMEHA IS DEAD ---RIHOIIIHO IS KING-THE TABI
1. ABOLISHED —AND THE TEMPLES AND IDOLS ARE
DESTROYED!"
The eldest son of the Conqueror of Hawaii had ascended the throne, and the very opening of his reign had
been marked by a measure which is without a parallel in
the history of the world. A pagan king, unbidden and
uninstructed, had in a day cast off all the gods of his people; and, by a single stroke of boldness, overthrown a
superstition, which, for ages, had held a degraded race in
the bondage of fear.
The idolatry of the Sandwich Islanders was of a form
peculiar to the Polynesians, called TABU, from an appendage to the ordinary worship of images, expressed by
that term, so singular in its nature as justly to give name to
the whole system. 'The tabu, though intimately connected
with the services of religion, did not consist of any fixed
and unchanging observances-but was uncertain and arbitrary in its requisitions. It was an instrument of power,
in the possession of the priests and king, which might be
made to assume any shape, which interest, passion, or
even caprice, might dictate, and to extend to all things
civil as well as religious. And, every breach of tabu being
punishable with death, it was a system under which the
people were governed as with a rod of iron.
The word, itself, has generally been considered by
foreigners as synonymous with the English word prohibition. But its literal and peculiar meaning implies a consecration. Thus the priests, the king, the chiefs, who
claimed descent from the gods, and the temples, were
tabu. So also an animal, or cluster of fruit, or other
article, set apart for sacrifice-and a day, week, or month
appropriated to the worship of the gods.
The tabus varied greatly both in extent and duration.
3




26


HISTORICAL SKETCH


Sometimes a single tree, or a single animal only, would
be made tabu, and at others, a whole grove or herd;sometimes a single house, or piece of land, or fishing
ground, at others a whole district, or even island. Sometimes the tabu would be limited to a day, at others, would
continue for weeks and months. Tabus of time varied in
the degree of rigour with which they were to be observed;
sometimes requiring only a cessation from ordinary work
and amusement; at others, an entire seclusion; when, to
be seen abroad, was death. Every fire, too, must then
be extinguished-every sound, even to the crowing of a
cock or barking of a dog, prevented-and the silence and
desolation of death, be made to reign throughout the whole
extent of the tabu, whether of district or island.
But though thus various in its features. and changeable
in its forms, there were points, in the tabu, which were
general and unalterable. One of these, was the tabu of
all the best kinds of food for sacrifice to the gods, and for
the use of the men: the women were thus excluded from
the use of hogs, fowls, cocoa-nut, bananas, several kinds
of fish, &c. &c. Another was a tabu excluding the females from the houses of the men. A woman was not
permitted to enter the habitation even of her father or
husband, nor to eat in company with any man.  These
were the points, a breach of which, RihoRiho determined
to make the signal for the abolition of the whole, and for
the downfall of idolatry.
Having secretly consulted the high priest and principal
chiefs upon the subject, and gained their consent and cooperation, he made a great entertainment, in the month of
November 1819, to which all the foreign traders, mercantile agents, and residents, then at the islands, were invited, together with the whole company of chiefs. Two
long tables, one for males and another for females, in conformity to the tabu, were spread in an open bower,
around which a great concourse of common people assembled. After the food was served up, and all the company
had taken their seats, the king evidently much agitated,
arose with a dish of the food denied to females in his hand,
and walking first round the table of the men, as if to see
that all were properly provided, hastily turned to that of




OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.            27
the women, and seating himself between two of his
queens, began to eat with them, from the dish he had carried. At this, the whole astonished multitude burst into
the exclamation, Al NOA! AI NOA! (ai food-owa common, or general, in contradistinction to ai tabu-food
sacred.) The high priest himself rushed to fire an adjoining temple; and messengers were instantly despatched,
in all directions, to perpetrate a similar conflagration. In
a very few days, every heathen temple, in the group, was
mouldering in ashes, and the idols, which had not shared
the same fate, were cast useless on the beach, or reserved
merely as objects of curiosity.
That it was the pleasure of the king, thus to cast off the
tabu, and to abolish idolatry, seemed sufficient to satisfy
the minds of the people. One ambitious young chief of
rank, however, attempted, by it to excite the natives to a
rebellion, in the hope of securing the sovereignty to himself; but, in this, he was unsuccessful —his party were
defeated, and himself and wife slain in battle, in the winter
of 1820.
The causes which led RihoRiho to a determination so
bold and so important, are not fully known; but probably
were, a conviction of the falsity of idolatry, derived from
an intercourse with foreigners and from the indifference, if
not contempt, they may have manifested for the gods and
sacrifices of his nation; a knowledge of the destruction of
the idols at the Society Islands, a people known to him to
be altogether like his own; and strong attachment for his
queens, who were restricted in their privileges and enjoyments by the tabu. Whatever may have been the immediate cause or causes of this singular event, the pious
heart will recognize in it the hand of Him, who doeth all
things according to his good pleasure, and who, only can
"IN THE WILDERNESS, PREPARE THE WAY OF THE
LORD, AND MAKE STRAIGHT, IN THE DESERT, A HIGHWAY FOR OUR GOD!"
The intelligence thus communicated from the shore,
prepared the Missionaries for a favourable reception by
the king and government. They were early and happily
established on the islands of Hawaii, Oahu, and Tauai;
and with such prospects of immediate and wide-spread



28     COMMENCEMENT OF THE VOYAGE.
ing usefulness, that the first communications from them
to their patrons were accompanied by an earnest application for more Missionaries. This application was repeated again and again, and in the year 1822 was complied with by the American Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions, in the selection of a reinforcement,
consisting of three ordained ministers: the Rev. Mr.
Bishop, Rev. Mr. Richards, and myself; two licensed
preachers, Mr. Ely and Mr. Goodrich; Dr. Blatchely a
physician, all married men; Mr. L. Chamberlain, agent
for secular affairs; Betsy Stockton, a coloured female,
a domestic and assistant Missionary in my own family;
and three Sandwich Islanders, from the Foreign Mission
School at Cornwall, —Stephen Pupuhi, Richard Karaioula,
and William Kamahoula.
The embarkation took place on board the ship Thames,
in the harbour of New-Haven, on Tuesday the 19th of
November, 1822; immediately after which, the following
Journal was commenced.
CHAPTER II.
COMMENCEMENT OF THE VOYAGE.
Ship Thames, at Sea,.JVa. 22, 1822. The letters of
the 20th instant, sent on shore by the pilot, will inform
you, my dear M —, of the manner in which the first
day of our embarkation was spent. Our ship, from the
gentleness of her motion, seemed less willing than ourselves to exchange the smooth waters of the sound, and
the rich and cheerful landscapes along the shores of Connecticut and Long Island, for the troubled bosom and unbroken horizon of the ocean; and it was not till yesterday morning, at day-break, that we passed Montauk Point,
and gained the open sea.
A few hours afterwards we lost sight of Block Island,
the last part of our country in view-without scarce
noticing it, however, from the excessive sickness which had
already seized most of our number. H —  is extremely
ill, so much so, as to be almost entirely insensible. I




GALE IN THE GULF STREAM.


29


have, myself, escaped altogether, and am happily enabled
to devote my whole attention to her. The wind yesterday
was fresh, and the sea rough-but to-day the weather is
much more boisterous. Since evening we have had heavy
squalls, with occasional dashes of rain, and there is now
every appearance of an approaching gale.
Saturday, 23. After taking reef on reef, and furling
sail after sail, during the night, it became necessary this
morning, from the violence of the storm, to heave the ship
to, and let her drift with the wind. The scene is new and
terrific. The dead-lights are in; and besides the gloom
thus thrown over all below, the cabin has been made still
more comfortless by a heavy sea which broke over the
ship, and poured a torrent of water down the campanionway. Every thing not strongly lashed is driving from one
side to the other, while we ourselves, some seated on the
floor, some on trunks and boxes, and others braced in our
births, are obliged to cling to whatever is within reach, to
prevent being dashed about in the same manner. The
wind howls dismally through the spars and rigging, and
every wave that rushes along the sides of the vessel, or
breaks above the bulwarks and thunders over our heads,
seems to threaten destruction.
At 9 o'clock I went on deck: I had anticipated a scene
of grandeur, but its sublimity and fearfulness far surpassed my expectation. No description can convey a
just impression of it to your mind. Imagine for a moment, the mountains of Otsego to be rolling in every direction, with high and broken swells over the lake and
valley.  Just so monstrous are the billows that rage
around us. We are in the gulf stream, and the current
and storm being in opposite directions, the waves are not
only high and heavy, but irregular in their course, and so
rapid in their succession, that, before the ship, in her descent, is half way down the abyss between them, the next
sea often collects to a tremendous height above her bowsprit, over which it appears impossible for her to rise.
Still she as often mounts its threatening wateps, and rides
in triumph on its summit. But the labour is excessive,
and, as she plunges from the top of one wave to the gulf
below, and, after a momentary pause, rushes again to the
3 




30


SABBATH.


height of another, every timber groans in the effort, and
at times she trembles to her keel as if foundering in the
struggle.
I was above, when she made the most fearful plunge
we have yet felt. Several of the crew were, at the time,
securing the flying-jib-boom, and, with the bowsprit and
whole head of the ship, were instantly buried in a mountain of water. An involuntary shriek, as their hats were
seen sweeping topmast-high on the passing wave, expressed the fear that they too were hurried to destruction.
But happily they maintained their hold, and, though
bruised and breathless, escaped a watery grave.
Never before was I so deeply impressed, as in this
conflict of the elements, with my insignificance as a creature, in the sight of Him who " commandeth the winds
and the waves, and they obey him."  A momentary unbelief would persuade me to think myself too unimportant
an object to share in the protecting power of such a
Being. How happy for us is the assurance that every
hair of our heads is numbered, and that without Him not
even a sparrow falleth to the ground. All the fortitude of
the Christian is requisite, to preserve an ordinary degree of
composure, amidst the terrors of the Lord, as thus displayed, in the wonders of the deep; how is it, that the
careless and ungodly sinner can behold them, and not
tremble!
Evening. The storm has rapidly abated, and we are
again under sail; but the sea is still dreadfully high, and
almost every wave washes our decks.
Sabbath, 24. The weather continues too tempestuous
to allow of any religious service; and our Sabbath and
sanctuary must be those only of the heart. But though
denied the peculiar privileges of the day, we are cheered
by the persuasion, that we are not forgotten by our already
distant friends, who have gone up to the courts of God,
renewedly " to be satisfied with the fatness of his house,"
and " to drink of the river of his pleasures."
The remembrance of Sabbaths in a christian land, now
past to us for ever, has been accompanied by recollections
of home of the deepest tenderness. For the first time
siice we sailed, I have felt the reality of my separation




THOUGHTS ON MISSIONS.             31
from all I have held dearest on earth; and, as the conviction has pressed itself upon my soul, friend after friend
has crowded on my imagination, till I have escaped agony
of heart, only by hurrying my thoughts to that world of
gladness, where there will be no more separation, and
from whence "sorrow  and sighing shall for ever flee
away." 0 how happy, how glorious the hope of an interminable meeting there! Would to God that all the objects of love, on whom the warm remembrance of this
day has rested, had secured this hope to their souls " as
an anchor sure and steadfast;" then, though widely dispersed, we should pass safely through all the tempests of
life, and ride securely together, at last, in the haven of
eternal rest.
Tuesday, 26. We have to-day been gratified by an
incident, always cheering to those at sea, that of speaking
a ship homeward bound. Animation beamed from every
eye, as the cry of " Sail ho!" echoed from voice to voice.
A fine ship under full sail, is a noble object, and we
watched our mutual and rapid approach with delight. It
proved to be the William Penn of Philadelphia; and as
we rushed past each other, we requested to be reported,
' Jll's well-a week at sea," and followed her with our
best wishes and prayers.
Saturday, 30. Another severe gale of wind compelled
us to lay-to the whole of Thursday night, and part of
yesterday. Confinement to the cabin, and the tossing of
the ship, has greatly increased H —'s sickness. She
has indeed been very, very ill; so much so, as even to
excite, at times, serious apprehensions of the result. She
has scarce opened her eyes, or spoken a word, since we
gained the open sea; and has suffered more in that period,
than in all her life before.
This circumstance has given me an opportunity of judging what my thoughts and feelings will be, when I see her
enduring all the privations of the Missionary life-should
she be spared to meet them. When I look back a fortnight, and view her as she then was, healthful and animated, with happiness beaming on every feature, and see her
now pale, emaciated, and spiritless, from a sickness which
mighthave been avoided, 1 am readyto ask myself, " Could




32


THOUGHTS ON MISSIONS.


it have been my duty thus to expose one so delicate, and so
unused to fatigue and hardship "' Something within me
would answer, " No, it could not." But it is not the spirit
of the Christian, nor of the Minister, nor of the Missionary; atl these, more promptly and more decisively exclaim,
It coutd, and it is."  Yes, whatever I myself, whatever
H --- may suffer, I am fully persuaded, that I have done
rigt, and that she has done right, informing the determination, and in persuing the measures we have. We are not on
a warfare at our own charge; nor do we undertake to build
not having counted the cost. We have engaged in this enterprise, not from a sudden impulse of unenlightened enthusiasm, but from a long process of reasoning, whieh we trust,
will bear the scrutiny, equally, of philosophy and of religion.
Did self-enjoyment constitute the highest object and
blessing of our present existence, in ' the elegant sufficiency" of an Americanhome, we could have been so well
satisfied as scarce to have wished for a change, even to that
better country" whose fulness, only, can meet the desires of an immortal spirit. But while such is not the
case, and, next to the salvation of our own souls, the glory
of God and the good of man ought to be our chief concern, we most willingly bid farewell to all the charms of
civilized life, and welcome the simplicity and rudeness of
a Missionary hut, if thereby we can most fully achieve
these great ends of existence.
If the Bible be true-and where my soul can confidentl)
repose, every minor good may be securely trusted-I fear no
evil in this measure, except that which may arise from the
deceitfulness of the human heart. To me, the duty involved in Christian Missions to the heathen, is clear as
the sun at noon-day; and to deny it, is, in my opinion, at
once to oppose the whole spirit and genius of our faith —
i asiell as expressly to reject the authority of the scriptures. Unto the Gentiles the gospel of Jesus must be
preached. On whom, then, does the obligation of this necessity fall  I answer, on those ministers of the cross,
at least, who can devote themselves to the work, without
neglecting or forsaking a prior and superior duty incompatible with the undertaking  and who are not disqualified
by physical or other causes, from entering upon it. Of




THOUGHTS ON MISSIONS.             83
this number, after a careful, and, I may add, at the time
unwelcome examination, I proved myself, to my own conscience, to be one. And what reason could I plead, why
an exemption should be granted to me? Could I say" My attachment to my family and friends, to my home
and country, are too strong-I cannot tear myself from
them?" The same argument might be equally urged by all
others; and he who trusted in it, might justly apprehend
the righteous judgment of Heaven on the heart, that
loved the objects of its earthly affection more than it feared its Maker. Could I plead the too great sacrifice of the
indulgences and elegancies of life? In so doing, by what
data could I discriminate between a supreme attachment
to these, and that " friendship of the world which is enmity with God;" and how well might I dread the sentence
-" Thou fool!-this night thy soul shall be required of
thee."  No plea could stand the test,-and it was only
left for me to say —" Lord, here am I, send me."
This surrender was not made, I admit, without a struggle —not the struggle of a day-nor of an hour-but of
months: and a struggle of agony too; but-thanks be to
God-it was that also of triumph, and from the moment
of victory, all within my own bosom, on this point, has
been peace.
Both myself and H —   have acted in this matter only
in conformity to the precepts of the Gospel-to the dictates of reason and conscience-and to the leadings of the
Providence of God.  We may find that the hand that
guides, bears the rod to afflict; still we will fear no evil:
blessings rich and satisfying will arise in the path of duty
-if not in one form-in others, perhaps less expected,
but not less full.
With these views of the subject, and they are those of
our inmost hearts, we cheerfully turn for ever fromi e
comfort, the social happiness, and refiled enjoyments e
might so fully have secured in our native land, and welcome with contentment, the self-denial and privation —the
toil and care, we have in prospect. Whatever else we
lose, we gain
" A peaceful Conscience, and approving Heaven"



34


ARRANGEMENT OF TIME.


a treasure, too rich to be exchanged or forfeited for all the
fleeting and unsubstantial pleasures of the world. When,
then, we recount our sufferings,-when we give a candid
statement of our situation, however afflictive it may be-do
not think that we consider it strange that such things have
befallen us, but that deeming the service we perform as
done unto the Lord, we even " count for joy" the trials
that may await us in its accomplishment.
Our humble friend B —  daily proves more and more
kind, affectionate, and faithful.  She has been most
thoughtful and assiduous in her attentions to l —, andi
we consider her an invaluable acquisition to our family.
MaIodayl, Dec. 2, '. Iat. 36 deg. W. lo't'. 49 deg.The weather now is delightful-the air as mild and balmy
as that of a morning in Mlay. The sea too is less disturbed than at any time since we came out. Indeed, until
Saturday we were in a constant gale. You can scarce
imagine the difference made in every thing by the change.
Before, we could not see two hundred yards for the green
billows heaping in mountains around us; now, we can
look, in any direction, to a distance of many miles over a
beautiful surface of deep blue, variegated here and there
y the snowy curvings of a breaking wave.
Contrary to my expectation, I find no difficulty in profitably employing my time on board ship. In this I am happily disappointed; from what I had heard of sea life, I was
fearful the voyage would prove almost a blank. We are
quite systematic in our regulations as a family. The
rousing bell is rung in the cabin at sinrise, and that for
morning prayers at half past seven o'clock. We breakfast at eight, dine at one, take tea at six, and have evening
worship immediately after the setting of the first nightwatch, that all the crew may attend.
establishment of regular worship has been a
6 ree of much satisfaction, and the respectful attendance
of the captain, officers, and crew, gives us sincere pleasure. When the weather admits, the evening service is
held on the quarter-deck; and it is sweet, indeed, to hear
our hymns of praise floating on the breeze, arnd to listen to
the voice of prayer, addressed from the midst of these
mighty waters, to Him who protects, and who only can defnd, and bless us,




VISIT TO THIE,SHIP WINSLOW.


35


Our other religious services are, a prayer-meeting in
the forenoon of the Sabbath, and a sermon in the afternoon. Bible classes have also been established among
the sailors. We cannot but hope, and do most fervently
pray, that these means of grace may not be lost on the
souls of those, by whose skill we are enabled to bear the
glad tidings of salvation to the distant islands of the ocean.
Dec. 4. We are at present nightly enjoying a lovely
exhibition-that of moonlight at sea. At this season of
the year, even in these mild latitudes, the queen of night
ascends her throne through dark and wintry clouds floating
on the horizon; and, for the last few evenings, I have
stood hour after hour, gazing at her, as she has burst, in
all her glory, from behind one and another of these dark
masses; or, from her concealment, has fringed their edges
with a splendor equal to her own.
" Nor undelighted, in the solemn noon
Of night," —
have I watched her progress through the sky, while the
mild radiance above, and the playful reflection below,
have presented a scene of tranquility and peace. unrivalled
but in a vision of fancy. Then, too, our ship, as she
hastens on her course, looks more majestic than in the day;
her lofty masts seem, from the deck to tower among the
stars, and her full, swelling sails, tapering to their very
tops, add no small degree of the beautifil to the sublime.
Dec. 9. Five days ago, we fell in company with the
ship Winslow, of New-Bedford, bound, like ourselves, to
the Pacific. We are still sailing within a short distance
of each other. Arrangements were made for a religious
service on board of her on the Sabbath; and the novelty
of an excursion, in a small boat, in the midst of the Atlantic, was assigned to me. I was accompanied by Captain
Clasby, and Mr. Chamberlain, and preached from the
text, " My son, if sinners entice thee, consent thou not."
The whole ship's company, neatly dressed, attended on
the quarter-deck, and appeared interested in the exercises.
The crews of American whale-ships are, generally, composed of respectable young men, of a class altogether superior to ordinary seamen. Intelligent, active, and enterprising, they cannot be regarded with indifference; and I




'30              MANNER OF
rejoiced in the opportunity of preaching to these, the uosearchable riches of Christ. May it not be in vain! but
may they hear, obey, and live! At the close of the sermon, Mr. Chamberlain furnished them with a quantity of
tracts, and we returned to the Thames in time for the afternoon worship.
For the last few days we have been perfectly becalmed.
A very heavy swell is at the same time, rolling from the
westward, giving to our ship a long, sluggish motion, almost as fatiguing as that in a gale.
Dec. 19. S. lat. 24 deg. IW. long. 20 deg. During
the last week, my taste for sea life, has greatly increased;
principally, perhaps, because of the rapid and almost entire recovery of H —. She is quite herself again. The
weather, too, has been delightful; the sky clear and mild,
the wind fresh and fair, and our progress rapid and exhilarating.
Dec. 23. Just after breakfast yesterday, a shoal of
large fish, a species of whale, (Physeter Catodon,) called
blackfish by the crew, were descried close to our ship.
H —and myself were walking the quarter-deck at the
time, and had a full view of them as they tumbled and:spouted on their way, directly under the stern. Not less
than fifty were in sight. Three of our boats were lowered and manned in a moment, and a chase after them commenced. At the distance of half a mile we saw the
darting ofa harpoon; immediately after the water dashing
high in the air; and then the boat oars " apeak," rushing
with astonishing velocity after the animal to which it was
fastened. From a defect in the iron, however, this one
was not secured. Shortly after, the first officer struck
another, which instantly spouted a column of blood ten or
fifteen feet high, and began plunging in the agonies of
death. He threw his immense body almost entirely out
f the water, and, while dying, thrashed the waves till he
was covered in a bed of foam.
All hands were engaged in towing the prey to the ship,
when another shoal appeared just under our bows: a boat
was quickly in the midst of them, as they sported along
unconscious of danger; and one of the largest became
alarmed only in time to receive a harpoon fully in his side,
as he plunged round to escape it. He sprang once nearly




TAKING WHALES.


37


his whole length into the air, and then diving into the deep
was soon out of sight; but the swiftness with which the
boat cut the waves after him, and the purple stream that
marked its wake, told that the blow had been true. The
boat continued to be hurried, with the speed of a racehorse, first in one direction, and then in another, for more
than half an hour before the creature died.
With some exertion, both were brought alongside the
ship, and hoisted upon deck. They were of one size,
about twenty-one feet long, fifteen feet in circumference,
and each weighing nearly three tons. The blubber was
immediately cut off; and after reserving the livers and a
few steaks, for the crew, the huge carcases were launched
again into the deep.
Unaccustomed to such feats, the whole scene was to us
an exhibition of singular intrepidity. The process in taking a whale is precisely the same. The boats for this
purpose are of the most light, and apparently fragile construction, formed to move with the utmost rapidity, and to ride even on the crest of a wave. The harponeer stands erect on the bow, with a firmness and
gracefulness which practice only could secure, while the
boat bounds from height to depth and from depth to height
of the swelling sea. At a proper distance, his eye fixed
on his victim, he darts the instrument with a force,
which would seem, inevitably, to throw him from his narrow foot-hold into the water, while the floundering animal.
writhing in the desperation of death, puts the boat in cpnstant jeopardy.
The danger is by no means imaginary; many boats are
destroyed, and many lives lost, in whaling voyages.
The line-hundreds of yards in length-to which the harpoon is attached, is coiled in a tub in the fore part of the
boat, and permitted to run off according to the power and
speed of the whale to which it has been fastened; while
one of the boatmen stands with a hatchet to cut it off, at a
single blow, in case it should become entangled; the dplay of an instant, might prove fatal, and the boat beirresistibly taken down by the animal. It not unfrequently happens, that an arm or leg of some of the men is caught n
the line, as it glides with the quickness of lightning fron
4




38    PASS THE CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS.
the tub, and, should not the limb be at once severed from
the body by it, the wretch is, in a moment, hurried to an
irrecoverable depth.
Our crew are engaged to-day in trying the blubber: for
which purpose all whaling ships have a fixture of two or
more large boilers and a furnace, on the fore deck. The
oil of the blackfish is principally used by curriers in dress.
ing leather;-that now preparing is for our lamps, there
having been a mistake in the quantity of spermaceti put on
board the Thames for the voyage.
Dec. 24. For the last fortnight we have been anticipating the pleasure of touching, for a day, at one of the Cape
de Verd Islands; and, for the time, had almost lost sight
of our more distant destination. Last night we supposed
ourselves so much in the neighbourhood of them, that we
fully expected to hear the cry, "land ho!" early this morning. But instead of land, we have a heavy breeze, high
sea, and thick and gloomy atmosphere. The uncertainty
of our real distance from the group,-the impossibility of
getting an observation,-and the threatening aspect of the
weather, made the captain so doubtful of the prudence of
running towards land, as to consult the passengers on the
Subject. We, of course, begged him to follow his own
judgment; when, with one more inquisitive look to the
windward, and an expressive shake of the head, he gave
the command —" Up witth   e he hem, and square the
yards;" and, in five minutes from the first suggestion of
sailing by without our promised visit, we were running before the wind towards the equator, at the rate of ten miles
an hour. A principal desire for stopping, had been, to
send letters to America: and when I saw the ship actually
about, and, in imagination, the land for which we had been
so eagerly looking, fading in the distance, I felt a momentary regret and disappointment.
Saturday, 28. After a most rapid run of several days,
we, this morning, reached " the suamp" —as the captain
calls the calm and rainy latitudes between the north-east
and south-east trade-winds-a few degrees north of the
equator. Clouds and tempests seem gathered before us,
having indeed, in point of gloom, the appearance of some
of the dismal swamps of our own continent; and we be



SHIP AFTER A SQUALL.              89
gin to apprehend the proof of a geographical description I
have seen, stating that "the regions of the equator are
given up to calms and rain-thunder, lightning, and waterspouts."
Evening. A violent squall has just swept over us; and
before our sails could be secured, the lee bulwarks of the
ship were nearly under water. Every thing had an aspect
more like that of the gale in the gulph stream, than at any
time since. The wind rushed so loudly through the rigging, as to require a full exertion of lungs in the captain and mates to cause their orders to be heard, and the
rain poured in torrents. Both wind and rain continue, in
an abated degree, and the ship is still reefed down so as,
in sea-phraseology, to be  all snug."
There is something in this state of things, that produces
a peculiar effect on my mind, and one which, you may be
surprised to hear me say, is that of enjoyment. The low
and scudding clouds-the driving rain-the sullen heavings of the ocean, and the roaring of the water at the
prow-the rapidity with which we dash from wave to
wave, while our lee-gunnels are almost buried in the deep
-though they give, to all without, the aspect of suffering
and of danger, induce a musing mood which I have found
delightful. Every thing on deck, too, has a like tendency
-nothing generally is heard, but the creaking of the masts
and yards, and the rattling of the cordage, while the officers, in their watchcoats, and tarpawling caps, stand at
their respective posts, and the sailors shelter themselves,
from the worst of the storm, under the lee of the boats or
weather bulwarks of the ship. 
A situation of personal comfort, however, as well,a'
sense of safety, is essential to this kind of enjoymentlt t
is the contrast, indeed, thus afforded, that yields the prin- g.
cipal pleasure. Feeling ourselves free from inconvenience
and harm, we triumph over the ragings of the tempest, and
forget the case of those who, unlike us, have no refuge
from its fury.
Armstrong describes the same feeling, in reference to
sleep, under circumstances familiar to every lte" O when the growling winds contend, and all
The sounding forest fluctuates in the storm,




40      THE DOLPHIN.-A WATERSPOUT.
To sink in warm repose, and hear the din
Howl O'er the steady battlements, delights
Above the luxury of common sleep."
J.onday, Dec. 30. Within the last two days, we have,
for the first time, had sight of a dolphin-one of the most
beautiful of the inhabitants of the sea. The general
length of this fish appears to be about two feet. In its
shape it bears little resemblance to the representation of it
seen on vases, &c. and in marine emblems and armorial
bearings, but is very similar to the white salmon-trout of the
Otsego. When swimming in the water, its colours appear
exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and
upper part of the sides. vary from the hues of burnished
steel to that of deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off
towards the under parts in pea-green and light yellow.
The head fins are sky blue, and those of the tail pale
green, terminating in yellow.
The Dolphin is seldom taken with a hook and line, but
only a short time ago, one was struck with a harpoon, and
brought on deck-we all hastened to witness the reported
splendour of its colours when dying. We found them to
be as truly beautiful as they have been described; consisting of rapid transitions from the deepest purple, approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different
hues, and several shades of silver, to an almost snow.
white, and then to purple again. The sight, however,
was painful, from a kind of sympathy with the beautiful
sufferer;-we could but feel, that the gratification of our
curiosity was at the expense of its life. The colours soon
bame less and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely
dsppeared. A large shoal of the boneto were sporting
ro ind the ship in company with the dolphin;-they are a
very active fish,-and frequently threw themselves several feet into the air.
In a Waterspout, we have also had one of the phenomena characteristic of the region in which we now are. It
was at too great a distance to be seen very minutely.
The end nearest the ocean was scarce perceptible, though
the agitation of the water under it was very evident; the
upper extremity terminated by a tubular expansion-similar in form to the large end of a trumpet-in a heavy




PHOSPHORETIC LIGHT.              41
black cloud. The part clearly visible was about 300 feet
in length, and the cloud not less than 1500 feet in height.
There was a shower of rain, almost immediately afterwards, of the largest drops I ever saw. It is perfectly
calm, and the ocean glassy as a mirror, which made the
appearance of the rain, as it struck the surface of the water, singularly beautiful —as far as the 3ye could reach, the
whole sea seemed a plain of glass, studded with diamonds
of the first magnitude.
Ten o'clock at night. The exhibitions of the day, have
been followed to-night by a phosphoretic scene of unrivalled
splendour and sublimity. We had often before observed
luminous points, like sparks of fire, floating here and
there in the furrow of our vessel; but now the whole ocean
was literally bespangled with them. Notwithstanding the
smoothness of the surface, there is a considerable swell of
the sea; and sparkling as it did on every part as with fire,
the mighty heavings of its bosom were indescribably magnificent. It seemed as if the sky had fallen to a level with
the ship, and all its stars, in tenfold numbers and brilliancy, were rolling about with the undulation of the billows.
The horizon, in every direction, presented a line of uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening was one
extent of apparent fire. The sides of our vessel appeared
kindling to a blaze, and, as her bows occasionally dashed
against a wave, the flash of the concussion gleamed half
way up the rigging, and illumined every object along the
whole length of the ship. By throwing any article overboard, a display of light and colours took place, surpassing in brilliancy and beauty, the finest exhibition of fireworks. A charming effect was produced, by a line, coiled
to some length, and then cast in the water at a distance;
and also, by a bucket of water dashed from the side of the
vessel. The rudder too, by its motions, created splendid
coruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our
track was marked far behind us. The smaller fish were
distinctly traceable, by running lines shewing their rapid
course; while, now and then, broad gleamings, extending
many yards in every direction, made known the movement of some monster of the deep. But minuteness will
only weary, without conveying any adequate impression of
4*




VOYAGE*


the sne;,-it,would have been wise, perhaps, only to
have sad, that it was among the most sublime, Nature
herself ever presents.
The cause of this phenomenon was long a subject of
speculation among men of science, but is now satisfactorily ascertained to be sea-animalcula of the luminous tribe,
particularly the species Medusa. The.Medusa pellucens
of -ir Joseph Banks, and the Medusa scintillans of Mr.
Macartney, emit the most splendid light. The degree and
brilliancy of the exhibition are supposed to depend on the
state of the atmosphere and sea. A more grand display
than that which we have witnessed, probably seldom, it
ever, takes place.
CHAPTER III.
VOYAGE.
Monday, Jan. 6. Several days ago, we took a fine
breeze from the south, which has proved to be the regular
trade-wind. The " swamp" was much less formidable
than we expected: we have had but little rain, only a
short calm, and no thunder-storm, though " the artillery of
the heavens" has been heard, almost constantly, at a distance. We crossed the Line, yesterday morning, in
longitude 24 deg. west. The heat, though great, has not
yet been very oppressive: tie mercury in Fahrenheit, in
the shade, has ranged from 79 to 83 deg., and in the sun
stands at 116 deg.
Thursday, 9. S. lat. 8 dee. 34 min., W. long. 27 deg.
Early to-day, a sail was discovered with signals for speaking; and we bore down to her. It was a Portuguese vessel
of very indifferent appearance. Our captain put the Thames
so close alongside of her, that an apple could have been
thrown on her deck. The commander could not speak
English, and hailed through one of his crew: he merely
Hished to know onw longitude; and informed us he was
imund to the Western Coast of AIfrica. With the knowidge of te destination, the horrors of a slave-ship at
Aoce rose on thtind; and the probability of her errand




SLAVE SHIP.- -FLYING FISH.


43


to that land of wretchedness, took entire possession of the
imagination. The sighing of the captive, and the groan.
ing of the oppressed, seemed already to be heard from
her hatchways; and, as we dropped into her wake, gazing at her black hulk and bloody waist-colours well
suited to her character-to the farewell wave of the hand,
I could not add the customary ejaculation —" God speed
thee!'
Never before was I so deeply impressed with the enormity of this trade. I involuntarily shrunk from the sight
of men, who I believed to be engaged in its cruelties; and
felt no inclination, as on similar occasions, to watch the
lessening sail till it should sink beneath the horizon. Instead of impressions of beauty, before received, from the
same object, every look brought with it associations of human misery. Oh! what perversion of feeling, what destitution of principle, must there be in the heart, that can
convert the ignorance and debasement of those, who,
though sunk below the level of their race, are still " bone
of our bone, and flesh of our flesh," into reasons for subjecting them to still greater degradation! Surely, if any
thing on earth calls loudly for the righteous judgment of
God, it is the prosecution of the slave trade; and sooner
or later, the retributions of a just avenger must fall on those
who thus make the heavens to echo with the moanings of
the bereaved, and the earth rich with the tears and blood of
the enslaved.
Jan. 22, S. lat. 33 deg. W. long. 51 deg. For some
time past, the ocean around us has been enlivened by immense numbers of flying fish, (exocwetus volitans.) This is a
beautiful animal, six or eight inches in length, and of slender and delicate form. Until now, I had an impression
that it received its name from springing in the air, for a
moment only, and then sinking into its native element;
but, within the last fortnight, flocks of forty and fifty, and
even of a greater number, have risen about our ship, and
flown yards before descending again. When in this situation, a person ignorant of their nature could not distinguish them from birds of the same size. The large
transparent fins, which they use in flying, have every appearance of wings; and when in a direction opposite to




44                DEVOTIONAL
the sun, their whole bodies are of a most dazzling silver
white.
But in this case, as in that of the dying dolphin, we have
been led to commiserate as well as to admire. At most
times, when these little creatures thus take flight, it is only
to escape from some devouring enemy in close pursuit.
We have often caught a glimpse of a boneto darting
through the water under them, as they have skimmed along
its surface; and once, after watching with delight the
lengthened course of an uncommonly beautiful fish, as
time after time it dipped for a moment, but scarcely
touched the waves before it rose again, and seemed to exert every power to pursue its rapid way, we saw it fall directly into the jaws of some ferocious monster, which, as
if doubly ravenous from the chase, leapt partly out of the
water to receive it.
They seem peculiarly ill-fated; not unfrequently, a
flight from the enemies in their proper element, exposes
them to the rapacity of others equally destructive; and
they become the prey of gulls, cormorants, and other seafowl hovering over the water for food. In their aerial
course, they often also come in contact with vessels, and
fall helpless captives on the deck.
Since taking the south-east trade-wind, we have had
most charming weather. The beauty, both of sea and
sky, has been such, as to attract constant observation;
and the perfect clearness of the atmosphere, except a rich
bed of clouds floating on the most distant horizon, is peculiarly pleasant, after the gloomyheavens of the " thunderstorm latitudes."  We are all in fine health and spirits,
and truly happy. Every thing, within and without, indicates prosperity and peace; and, occupied with a variety
of useful employments, we have yet known nothing of the
ennui so often complained of at sea.
We are not without evidence, of a more interesting and
important kind, that the blessing of God is upon us. A
very visible change has taken place in the general deportment of our crew, and a great increase of seriousness is
observable at the seasons of worship. Beneficial consequences are following our Bible classes. While they enlighten the mind on the subject important above all others,




IMPROVEMENT.


45


they give an access to the heart and conscience, which
could not otherwise be readily secured; and the happy
influence of which, is already manifest. Another exercise,
connected with evening prayers,-the repetition, by each of
the Missionaries, of a single text of Scripture, indiscriminately chosen from the bible,-has been attended by a
salutary effect. The practice was adopted, from the inconvenience of reading at night on the quarter-deck, and
has been found more successful, in arresting the attention,
than the ordinary manner of introducing the Scriptures at
such services. There is something peculiarly impressive
and solemn, in the sound of so many different voices,
successively proclaiming, amid the darkness that covers
the deep, the words of eternal truth.
Our Sabbaths also have, of late, increased in interest.
There is now, generally, during the sabbath an order and
quietness in every part of the ship, becoming the character
of the day. The officers and crew, like ourselves, are
occupied with their bibles, and other appropriate books;
and in meeting the various duties of this happy institution,
we often experience the truth of the assurance —" they
that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength."
Our evenings, too, are greatly conducive to a spirit of
devotion: the vast expanse of water around us, almost
insensibly leads the mind to the eternity, of which it is so
often made an illustration. The mild splendour of a tropic sky, here adorned by the CROSS —" the emblem of
redeeming love"-and, the serenity of every thing within
observation, seem better suited to emotions of seriousness, than the glare of day; while the general silence of
the ship, broken by
"No noise but water, ever friend to thought,"
leaves the mind to the free use of every comtemplative
power. It is a time in which I delight; and often, after
most of our company are wrapt in sleep, I ascend the rigging, till, even the footsteps of " the patrolling watch,"
are lost in the dashing of the water, there to gaze on the
heavens, " the work of the Almighty, and the moon and
stars which He hath made;" and, in view of their magnitude and sublimity, with the psalmist, to exclaim



46            DANGEROUS SQUALL.
' "What is man, that THOU art mindful of him I or the son
of man, that thou visitest him i"
Thursday, 23, S. lat. 34 deg. W. long. 51 deg. 30 min. —
Spoke the Hebe, of Philadelphia, from Buenos Ayres,
bound to Rio Janeiro and Lisbon. The Thames was running under a press of sail before a strong breeze, against
which the Hebe stemmed her way, close hauled, with double reefed topsails only. She was but two days from port;
and having been newly painted, looked as fresh and fair
as the fictitious being whose name she bears.
Evening. The most tremendous squall we have yet
encountered hasjust swept by. H. and myself were taking
our usual roling promenade on deck, when our attention was
suddenly attracted, by a singular appearance of the sky;
and we had scarce directed an inquiring look to the captain, before the gust came raging upon us. The officers
had time only to exclaim —" wAl hands on deck! hand the
royals-and the top-gallant-sails too!-clew up the mainsail! mind your helmt-quick! quick!" —while all became
vociferation and confusion among the crew-when Ihe
wind struck us a flll broadside, and instantly laid the ship
almost on her beam ends. Every thing cracked, in her
struggle against the blast, and she shot forward like a
race-horse, with her gunnels in the water, and the waves
on her lee towering yard-arm high.
All the furniture in the cabin was completely capsized,
and those below, thinking the vessel going down, rushed
on deck with looks and exclamations of horror. For some
time, I thought every successive moment would see us engulfed in the flood, which literally yawned to receive us.
But all the halliards having been let go, and the helm
seized by an experienced hand, the ship was got before
the wind, and somewhat eased, till the violence of the
gust gave place to torrents of rain, accompanied by lightning and thunder. A shipwreck must, indeed, be horrible.
I was not greatly agitated myself; the most unpleasant
sensations I experienced, arose from the terror of others;
for there were many a pale face and trembling lip, among
both crew and passengers. Whatever the degree of dan.
ger may have been, the scene was of a character deeply
to fix thoughts of that event, by which sooner or later, we
shall all be made to stand before the bar of God.




GALE OFF THE RIO DE LA PLATA.


47


Jan. 25, S. lat. 37 deg. W. long. 52 deg. 48'. At twelve
o'clock last night, agale commenced, and in an hour's time
we were compelled to lay-to, under a storm-stay-sail only.
The howling of the tempest-plunging of the vessel-and
trampling and hallooing of the sailors, effectually prevented
our taking any rest. The first person from the deck, this
morning, reported the wind to be a hurricane, and the
waves mountain high: the latter circumstance we were
ready to believe, without ocular demonstration. One or
two, only, of the passengers, attempted to take breakfast.
While at the table, a sea struck the ship along her whole
length, from the quarter deck to the bows, and threw her
nearly on her beam-ends. She lay, trembling under the
stroke, till I thought she would never rise again; and, the
water came pouring by the hogshead, down the companionway, and through the steerage hatch. Every thing
was swept from the table, though secured in the manner
usual in such weather; and some of the family, mattresses and all, were thrown from their births, into the cabin. On deck, one of the boats was stove, and the ship,
in its whole length, was washed by the wave.
The gale continuing to increase, and the sea to rise at a
fearful rate, it became necessary for our safety, to have the
upper yards and inasts sent down. The seamen were
obliged to mount to their very tops, a distance of seventy
or eighty feet from the deck, to unloose the rigging; where,
" Upon the high and giddy mast,
In cradle of the rude, imperious surge,"
they were swung, every successive minute, with incredible velocity, through a space of little less than ninety feet;
while, an inevitable grave yawned beneath them, should
the slender yard, to which they clung, give way, or they
once lose their footing. The unnatural sound of their
voices, as their screams to make themselves heard below,
were caught by the wind, and born away on the tempest,
came to the ear like the shrieks of the dying; and, I
dared scarce look up, for a moment, lest I should see
some one, in despite of every effort, thrown into the raging sea, where no power of man could have secured him
rescue.  Anticipating the expression of hopeless horror,
which the wretch thus perishing must give, I often invol



48           AN ANXIOUS SINNER.
untarily closed my eyes, in the fear of beholding the agonizing reality.
The storm raged till evening with unabated violence,
and produced greater anxiety than any we had before
experienced. A tempest, such as this has been, is indeed
indescribably sublime; but too dreadfully terrific, when at
its height, to allow of much enjoyment. When it begins
evidently to abate, and hope tells you that the worst is
known, you are left to the indulgence of unmingled and
enthusiastic admiration; and may gaze with delight at the
ever-varying scene, as wave after wave rears its monstrous head, and " casts its foaming honours to the
clouds."  But, till this change does take place-(while
every successive blast blows harder and harder, and each
billow, threatens more surely than its precursor, to bury
you under its weight)-it is impossible. Thoughts of fear
must check, if they do not take entire place, of the higher
feelings of admiration.
But though the day has been one of gloom, it has been
marked by a circumstance, which has given me more genuine satisfaction than any thing since we left America.
In the dusk of the evening, while leaning, alone, against
the railing of the quarter-deck, feeling in my own mind
something of the desolation of the scene around me, my arm
was gently touched by some one, on the spars behind; it
was R —, one of the hardiest of our crew. As my eye
fell upon him, I at once anticipated his errand; and can
scarce describe my emotion, when I ascertained it, indeed,
to be the jailor's query —" What must I do to be saved?"
Perceiving me alone, he had stolen from his station forward, to say that his spirit, like the troubled sea, could
find no rest; and to beg to be directed in the way everlasting. His words were few, but his look, while he
trembled under his guilt as a sinner, and earnestly supplicated an interest in my prayers, spoke volumes. So unexpected, though greatly desired and prayed for, was this
event, that I almost doubted its reality. This state of feeling had been induced by a private conversation, on the
subject of religion, immediately after the recitation of
the Bible class, on the preceding sabbath; and he had
scarcely eaten or slept during the whole week. Every




WHALB.                    490
thing, in his appearance, manifested sincerity and contri
tion. I would not be too sanguine, yet cannot but hope
that the Spirit of God has begun in his heart that good
work, which shall be performed " until the day of Jesus
Christ."-"- A little leaven leaveneth the whole lump;
and, should but one of this crew be truly converted to the
faith and practice of pure religion, through the example,
the persuasion, and the prayers, of that individual, all his
companions, ere the voyage is completed, may be turned
to the Shepherd and Bishop of souls.
Notwithstanding this incident, our spiritual state, as a
little band far separated from all the world, may be best
understood from the lines of a favourite hymn"At anchor laid, remote from home,
Toiling, we cry, ' Sweet Spirit, come!' "
Thursday, 30. The latitudes in which we are now sailing,
are by mariners called " the variable," in contradistinction
to those which have the regularity of the trade winds. You
would think them well named, had you, with us, experienced the succession of gales, strong breezes, and calms,
through which we have passed during the last week. The
changes have been so sudden and so extreme, as deeply to
impress on my mind the propriety and force of illustrations
of the uncertain scenes of life by images from the sea.
Any one familiar with its various states knows it to be,
indeed, " smooth and deceitful," yet " troubled and tempestuous" above all the objects in nature.
After a calm which presented the whole ocean as a bed
of glass, we have now again so much motion, that I am
necessarily seated a la Turk with my whole writing establishment in my lap. It is quite chilly-a November afternoon; and with the mercury in Farenheit at 52~ our cloaks
and caps are once more in requisition. On deck, the flying clouds, with dashes of rain, and cold blustering intervals of sunshine, remind me of a day late in autumn at
Otsego, when the fresh wintry blasts come howling down
the lake.
Friday, 31. This morning, during a calm, we had the
first full view of a whale. From daybreak till eight o'cloock
many had been spouting at a distance; but this rose immediately at the bows of our vessel. The noise made by
5




50        >     BRAZIL BANKS.
the suction of the water round the animal, and by its spouting, rendered the usual exclamation-" There she blows I"'unnecessary, in attracting our attention to the spot; and
we all hastened forward to catch a sight of so welcome a
visiter. We were fully gratified; for it continued to play
on the surface of the water, within a stone's throw, for
more than an hour; and at one time lay alongside of us for
some minutes perfectly still, and within a few yards of the
ship. It was about eighty feet long, and proportionably
large: its spout, appearing like pure and beautiful steam,
was projected, by a single puff, neary twenty feet into the
air. The animal was of the species, called fin-back(Balaona Physalus)-a kind too fleet and powerful often to
be attacked by whalemen. It disappeared by diving headforemost, and casting its broad flukes perpendicularly out
of water.
Monday, Feb. 3, S. lat. 450 30'.  We are now on the
Brazil Banks-had soundings at 60 fathoms on Saturday
afternoon. The difference of depth in the water is plainly
visible to the eye; the colour having changed from deep
blue to that of a beautiful light green. At four o'clock,
yesterday morning, we fell in with the whaler Britannia, of
London, cruising on the banks, and sent letters on board
of her, to be transferred to the first ship she should meet,
bound to America. Some of our number improved the
opportunity to distribute tracts, which were gratefully
received by her crew.
Thursday, Feb. 5, S. lat. 51 deg. All hands have
been actively engaged to-day, in putting the vessel in trim
for Cape Horn. The upper yards, masts, and rigging,
have been sent down; and the ship dressed in a complete
suit of new sails, of the stoutest texture.  These preparations look formidable, but seem justified by the general
aspect of the weather. Just before night there was a very
peculiar exhibition on sea and sky. For half an hour
before and after sunset, the whole heavens, except a quarter of a circle in the west, which was perfectly clear, were
covered by dense, and unusually lowering, clouds.  The
elevation of the unshaded arch was not more than five
degrees; and under it, on the farthest horizon, a mass
jr line of vapour extended, so greatly resembling a distant




SINGULAR ASPECT OF THE SKY.          51
coast, that had we not known it to be impossible, not all
the power of vision, aided by our sea glasses, could have
satisfied us that it was not the American continent.
The rays of the sun, entirely shut out by the heavy
canopy above, came to us only in splendid reflections
from this fairy realm, and presented a succession of mountains, and groves, and spires, and turrets, and towers, and
even steamtboats and lighthouses, all in the richest colour.
ing, and glittering with silver. For some minutes, the
splendour of the sight momentarily increased, drawing
from us enthusiastic admiration: when the sun suddenly
bursts from behind its dark drapery, and in an instant the
whole mass of clouds, over and around us, were changed,
in all their ponderous forms, from the blackness of
night to the brightest crimson; while the sea, before
shrouded as in a funeral pall, gleamed with the mingled
reflections of purple and gold. The transition seemed one
of enchantment; but our admiration was not unaccompanied by emotions of awe. The lowness and thickness
of the clouds made the reflections of their colour so strong,
that the sun, though perfectly unobscured, glared with a
fiery and unnatural light; which, as it gradually faded into
the sickly shades of an eclipse, marked the sails and rig.
ging, and every countenance with a hue of death. Minds,
that soar above the power of superstition, might have felt
a momentary uneasiness at such unusual 'omens; and
while seabirds, which delight only in the drivings of the
storm, screamed around our masts above, or silently gazed
at us as they tossed on the waters below, I could but 
exclaim ---
"Dark gath'ring clouds, involve the threat'ning skies;The sea heaves, conscious of th' impending gloomLoud hollow murmurs, from the deep rieThey come-the spirits of the tempest come!"
Feb. 7. Our apprehensions of heavy weather have
not been realized; and we are making most rapid progress,
with clear sky and fair wind. We have been amused today by vast numbers of whales sporting near us on every
side, and often thrusting their broad backs entirely above
water, as they rushed past with the velocity of lightning.
iThese also were fin-backs.




582


MAKE STATEN LAND.


Saturday Feb. 8. We were roused, this morning, at
six o'clock, by the cry —" Land ho!"  Staten Land,
seventy miles distant, being in sight. Points of Terra del
Fuego were also seen during the forenoon.  At mid-day
we arrived directly opposite Staten Land; and passed
New Year Harbour, at a distance of ten miles. The
mountains are lofty, and broken, and fantastic in their contour. Many of their summits were spotted with white,
but whether of snow or rock we could not determine.
The whole island appeared thickly covered with wood,
but of low growth; though one of our seamen, who has
visited it for seal, says the trees, to the water's edge, are
large and afford good timber. The whole coast is ironbound and precipitous, consisting of cliffs towering many
hundred feet, against whose slippery bases, the surf conconstantly breaks fifteen and twenty feet high. Every
thing wears an aspect of profound solitude, not a living
creature being seen, but the sea fowl wheeling round their
inaccessible nests, or diving to the waters below.
Knowing the island to be uninhabited, we were surprised, on a nearer approach, to see a column of smoke, rising
at the entrance of New Year Harbour. It was, probably,
from the fires of persons left by ships, for the purpose of
catching seal. While acisating for it in this manner, I
could but wonder at the inconsistency of those who condemn the Missionary to a heathen land as an enthusiast
and a mad man, and yet look on such as these, who, for
a little worldly gain, banish themselves for months and years
to the most lonely and inhospitable climes, as praiseworthy examples of enterprise and hardihood.
After passing the most eastern point of the island, and
directing our course along its southern shore, it assumed
new and intereting forms; and its entire outline became
more and more outre. Were I to send you a sketch of it
you would almost believe me sporting with your credulity.
The whole seemed but a range of obelisks, pyramids,
domes, castles, and towers, which even a dull imagination
might have transformed into the gigantic works of the
fabled race, said to have inhabited the southern regions of
the neighbouring continent. As the evening approached,
the whole became empurpled, by the rich tints of the




VOYAGE. 
"^ sunset scene," so often the subject of the artist's skill,
while many points of rocks, from the water's edge to the
highest peaks, either from ice, or water, or metallic composition, glittered with the brilliancy of diamonds. It is
interesting, after having seen seventy-nine days at sea,
thus to have our horizon once more broken; especially as
it is accompanied by the assurance, that we have very
nearly reached the grand climacteric of our voyageCAPE HOBR.
CHAPTER     IW.
VOYAGE.
Thursday, Feb. 20, S. lat. 57~ 30'; VW. long. 70~ 30'.
Immediately after finishing the preceding page, nearly a
fortnight ago, we were assailed by the fierce winds of the
Cape. We had just fallen asleep, after an uncommonly
mild evening, when the rushing of an impetuous storm,
followed by the alarming cry, " lIl hands on deck!"(thundered with stentorian voice, down the maindeck, and
forecastle hatchways)-effectually roused us from our
slumbers. It was more than an hour, before the ship
could be snugly hove to: and we have been in one uninterrupted gale ever since, making but little headway in
our passage. Some apprehension existed, at one time,
of our being too much in the neighbourhood of the Diego
Ramerez, a cluster of rocks thirty miles south of Hermit's
Island, on which Cape Horn is situated. But we shortly
afterwards ascertained ourselves to be well to the westward of them; and, on the morning of the 16th, at four
o'clock, made Cape Noir, an island near Cape Gloucester,
on Terra del Fuego, twenty miles distant. We wore ship
immediately, and had only time to clear the coast before
the wind, blowing " dead on shore," increased to a perfect
hurricane, and for the last forty-eight hours has driven us
with irresistible fury far eastward again. Here we stll
struggle with the elements.
H —    often says, " With what terror would ouw
faiends witness our situaion!" At the very extremity of
5*




CAPE HORN.
the globe, surrounded by an immense waste of angry
waters, whose surface is unceasingly swept by wind, and
hail, and rain, and snow, our only earthly hope, a few
hundred feet of timber, which the ingenuity of man has
formed to float upon the ocean; liable to many accidents,
and hourly exposed to a horrid death, it would not be surprising, if the bursting of the tempest above, and the roaring of the deep below, should sometimes make us " fearful and unbelieving." But they do not. We have an unshaken confidence that all will be well; and behold the
terrors of our way without other emotions than those of
gratitude and hope. We often view our good ship with a
kind of sympathy: dismantled of much of her loftiness,
mid reefed and furled almost to bare poles, she looks, in
her conflict, desolate as a solitary oak, writhing in the contentions of a winter's storm.
Saturday, March 1, S. lat. 52 deg. W. long. 82 deg.
After a tempestuous passage of twenty-one days, by the
aid of a few hours of fair wind, we find ourselves completely round Cape Horn. The whole ship's company,
passengers and crew, appear like captives on the eve of
liberation from a gloomy and uncomfortable prison. You
will not be surprised at this, when informed that we have
scarce seen the sun for three weeks, and the moon but
once, though she is now some days past her full. Notone of the officers or crew have had dry clothes during
the whole of the time; the deck has been constantly deluged, and the cabin dark and cold: for we have had no
fire, though the mercury has stood as low as 34 deg. and
36 deg. Our nights have been restless, from the violent
motion of the vessel, and the groaning of her timbers; and
our days spent in stupidity and idleness, if an involuntary
loss of time may be called by that name. We could do
nothing, but wrap ourselves in our cloaks, hold on to any
thing within reach, and, whether sitting up or lying down,
roll and pitch with our labouring bark.
Notwithstanding these facts, this part of our voyage has
by Io means been uncommonly tedious or uncomfortable. The prevailing winds of this region are heavy gales
from the west, the direct course to be steered in passingf
the Cape, and ships are often detained by them three




SERIOlUSESS3 OF THE CREW.           55
times the period we have been, and meet with weather far
more dangerous and severe; so much so, that many vessels, after striving in vain for weeks here, to make a paesage into the Pacific, have been obliged, at last, to bear
away for the Cape of Good Hope, and make their voyage
across the Indian ocean.
There is great cause for gratitude, that we have thus
passed this dreaded goal, and are permitted to pursue our
way without disaster or longer detention. Our crew have
all been kept in life, where many a poor sailor has found
a cold unfathomed grave; and our ship has rode in safety,
where, not a few have met an untold fate.
March 4, S. lat. 48 deg. W. long. 84 deg. If the
affections of my heart are ever roused to an enthusiasm of
joy, it is when I see a young man in the fulness of his
health and strength, turning from folly and sin, to the love
of God. Such a sight I have lately had the happiness to
witness in G —. I have had long and repeated opportunities of conversing with him on the salvation of the
soul; and, for some time past, he has been deeply serious. More than once, I have seen him stretched at full
length in his state-room, apparently under the influence of
thoughts and feelings bordering on agony. The same
emotions have been visible in his countenance and manner, as he has walked his nightly watch on deck; and he
now stands, before the whole ship's company, as one who
is confessedly of a broken and contrite spirit in the sight
of his Maker and his Judge. I cannot but believe, that
in him we have the faithfulness of the promise, that the
Spirit should be sent "to convince of sin, of righteousness, and of judgment."
My interviews with R —, since the gale off the Rio
de la Plata, have been frequent. He continues greatly
interested for his own salvation. On two nights, recently,
I have spent a part of his watch on deck with him, and at
both times, by the light of a waning moon, have seen tears
roll in torrents down his hardy cheeks, while he hW
spoken of the things that relate to is eternal peace.
To some of his shipmates he has become an object of
ridicule, while others seem-to be like-minded with himself
Shortly after passing Staten Land, he came to me one




58       SERIOUSNEBS OF THE CRIW.
morning, with a very animated look, saying, "0 Mr...i    1i have much hope of C —: he is greatly troubled, has knocked off swearing, and is constantly overhaulinghis MBble. He used always to swear when reefing in
a gale, but on Saturday night, we were on the lee-yardarm of the main-topsail together, for half an hour, and,
though it blew -a hurricane, and we could do nothing with
the sail, he never swore a word: Let him only cut cable,
iand swing from the fellows in his watch, and I shall not
fear for him!"
I do not wonder that the angels of heaven, who know
all the bliss of true holiness, rejoice before the throne of
God, at the repentance of a sinner on earth. When I look
on these rough sons of the ocean, and know that the
breath, so lately spent only in profaneness and sin, is now
adidressed to God in prayer; and that from some secluded part of the ship, they daily and nightly offer the sa-rifies of penitence-sinful as they have been, I at times
feel ready to clasp them to my bosom, as those who shall
yet be purified, even as Christ is pure. Oh! that their number may here be increased, till every soul, by the reinewing of the Holy Ghost, shall" b e made meet for the inheritance of the saints in light."
March 6. G --- is rejoicing in the possession of a
Christian's hope. He requested an interview with me last
night, during his first wteh; and as I approached him in
the dark, fell on my nkik, with emotions that denied him
utterance. It was sometime before he could tell me of
ihe affections that had taken possession of his bosom.
So great and so entire a change had taken place in his
views and feelings, as to constrain him to believe, that unto
him " old things had passed away, and all things become:new," and that he was "in Christ Jesus a new creature."
After an interesting and exciting conversation, I left him
as I found him, rejoicing in the fulness of hope; and prayirginr my own heart, that the affection throbbing within
ihis manly breast, might prove to be the commencement of
aJ joy, which in the world to come, would "rise immeaurably high."
A short time since, R —  was in great despondency,
ad said to.me, I know not what to do -!"  I hbae lead




SERIOUSNESS OF THE CREW.            57
my Bible, and have prayed; I have tried for weeks, and
for months, to be religious, but I cannot; I have no true
repentance, no real faith, and God will not hear my
prayers; what can I do I I feel that my soul will live for
ever; and without the grace of God, I know it must
eternally perish," But to-night I met him, with his Bible
in his hand, and his very heart in his face, and his first
words were, " 0, Mr. S —, I have found the right way to
believe; It was the righteousness of Jesus Christ I
needed. Now the whole Bible is not against me, as it
used to be, but every word is for me; because I see and
feel how God can be just, and yet justify an ungodly
sinner."
Monday, March 10. This evening, while walking the
deck, I happened to cast my eyes into the steerage, and
could not refrain wishing, that some of those whose hearts
are interested for the salvation of seamen, and who are
active in exertions to promote it, could have stood by me
for a moment. One person only was there, and, for the
time, I wished to see no other; it was C --- reading his
Bible. The lamp was suspended from the upper deck, at
too great a height to admit of reading by it when seated
on the floor, and too much fatigued by a hard day's work
to stand, he was kneeling, and reading with an attention
and solemnity that seemed to absorb every thought and
feeling. He did not change his position in the least, till
the bell rang for prayer, a full half hour from the time I
first observed him, while his attitude, countenance, and
whole appearance, gave strong testimony that he was
searching the Scriptures for " the words of eternal life."
K  -  and N —   are deeply affected by the change in
their friend G —; and there is a seriousness from the
quarter-deck to the forecastle, that forces itself on the observation of every one. Even M —, who seemed to be
so far given up to evil as to have no one to care for his
soul, is filled with wretchedness as a sinner. And while
conversing with him, I have seen " rivers of waters" fall
from his cheeks into the briny deep, as he has hid his face
on the gunnel of the ship. And what, my dear M -,
shall we say to these things? Whose is the power, that
has produced such impressions on the feelings of these




6          EH ENTER THE PACIFIC.
hardy sailors  h And what influence, but he breathings of
the Holy Spirit, could thus have melted their hearts into
penitence?
March 12. At two o'clock, P. r. descried a sail; and
soon afterwards recognized the red banner of Britain. She
proved to be the brig Tiber, from Valparaiso, bound to
Valdivia, eight days out. Captain Clasby asked, before
coming up with her, whether any one of us wished to board
her; but we all declined. which, I greatly regretted,
when after passing, and being nearly beyond hearing, her
commander, in his farewell words, reported, the U. S. ship
Franklin, 74, Commodore Stewart, at Valparaiso. I
should have been pleased, in obtaining more particular information from our friends of that ship.
Monday, SMarch 24, S. lat. 15 deg. W. long. 96 deg.
In the midst of more important thoughts, I have omitted
to mention, that we have entirely left the region of winds
and tempest, and long ceased to ride upon " the mountain
wave."  We are now ploughing a widely extended plain,
under a press of sail, at the rate of ten miles an hour; and
instead of the chilling blasts of the Cape, are fanned by a
breeze, balmy as the breath of May. When we first sent
our top-gallant sails and royals up, and again spread our
broad studding-sails to the wind, we almost feared, after
seeing the ship so long staggering and reeling to and fro like
a drunken man, under close-reefed topsails only, that she
could not bear so great an addition of height and breadth;
but she hastens on, with all her accustomed stateliness
and beauty; and, with so much steadiness, that we are
scarce sensible of the slightest motion. The contrast in
our whole situation is so great, as to produce a proportionate exhilaration of spirits; and with a sailor's life, in
'its most favourable aspect, before me, I have been led
with Byron to exclaim"Oh who can tell, save he whose heart hath tried,
And danced in triumph, o'er the water wide,
The exulting sense, the pulse' mad'ning play,
That thrills the wand'rer of the trackless way,
O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea!"
For some time after entering the Pacific, we almost
doubted the appropriateness of its name: the experience




A SABBATH AT SEA.               6
of the last three weeks, however, has fully satisfied us en
this point; but for the deep blue of the surface, we might
fancy ourselves to be sailing on the placid bosom of a
lake. We are now off the coast of Peru; and have been
greatly delighted with the beauty of the sky and clouds,
which is here very peculiar, and I should think unrivalled
in any other part of the world. Towards evening, and
early in the morning, I have seen, at the same time, clouds
of almost every colour, in different parts of the heavens 
and of hues I never beheld there before; for instance, a
rich and perfect green, amber, and carmine; while the
hemisphere round the rising or setting sun has been one
blaze of glory. Last night, the tinge on the ocean added
greatly to the effect of the scene; it was of perfect blood
colour, occasioned by the reflection of a fleecy veil of
crimson clouds, stretched over a greater part of the heavens; the appearance was so extremely singular, as to
cause us almost to shrink from it, as from something slpernatural..Monday, Mar'ch 31. I never knew a Sabbath on land,
such as yesterday was here. Even the sky was of a purity I never beheld before; and the eye, in its vision,
seemed capable of reaching the very limits of space. Not
a cloud was visible; the white bosom of a tropic bird here
and there was only to be seen, appearing in her lofty soarings like a flake of snow against the blueness of the heavens. About ththip, scarce a sound was heard from the
opening of the mrYning till the close of day, but the rippling of the water as we sailed through the deep, or the
voice of worship as we bowed before our God. All on
board appeared to feel, as well as know, that the day was
sacred to its Maker; and when I viewed the neatness and
order of every thing, and witnessed the quiet and solemnity that prevailed, I could not but fancy that I saw " HOLINESS   T THE LORD" inscribed on the cloud of canvass
spread to the breeze. Our public services were delightful;-and what Christian would not have felt them to be
so, when the bright tear of rapture might be seen starting
in the eyes of some, and that of sorrow trembling in those
of others; both of whom, till of late, I' cared for pone of
these things.",




60       FAITH DEFINED BY A SAILOR.
R — is one of the happiest of creatures. All he says,
is worth twice its real value, from the manner in which it
is communicated. He, last night, related to me a conversation he had with C — a few days since. C —
came to him, with a spirit greatly troubled; and wished to
know in what manner he had obtained the light and liberty
he appeared to enjoy; adding, " I believe the Bible to be
true, and every word of it to be from God. I know that
I can be saved only by the redemption of Jesus Christ. I
feel my misery as a sinner-I believe every thing-but how
am I to believe so as to be saved? I want faith, and how
am I to get it?"  R — told him, it was just so with himself once: "I did not know what faith was, or how to obtain it; but I know now what it is, and believe I possess
it. But I do not know that I can tell you what it is, or
how to get it. I can tell you what it is not: it is not
knocking off swearing, and drinking, and such like; and it
is not reading the Bible, nor praying, nor being good;
it is none of these; for, even if they would answer for the
time to come, there is the old score still, and how are you
to get clear of that? It is not any thing you have done or
can do; it is only believing, and trusting to what Christ
has done; it is forsaking your sins, and looking for their
pardon and the salvation of your soul, because he died
and shed his blood for sin; and it is nothing else."  A
doctor of divinity might have given poor C —  a more
technical and polished answer, but not we more simple or
prbably satisfactory.
Tliesday,./pril 8, J. lat. 3 deg. VW. ong. 115 deg.We havebidden adieu to the southern hemisphere, most
probably for ever. We recrossed the equator on the night
of Saturday, 5th instant-three months, to an hour, after
having passed it in the Atlantic.
The last evening was devoted to the observance of the
monthly meeting for prayer, a service not expected to recur again till we shall have left the Thames. It was an
exceedingly interesting hour. While the burden of our
petitions, in unison with the appointment, was, 4' Thy
ingdom come!" the objects, and the end, of the Missionary case rose with all their moral sublimity on otar view




MONTHLY CONCERT OF PRAYER.


61


and caused us to sing with delighted animation, the fine
hymn" Glorious things of Thee are spoken,
Zion, City of our God!"
A copy of verses composed by Kristnu, the first Hindoo
convert at Serampore, also formed a part of the exercises:
and while we chanted its simple stanzas, we could not but
hope that similar knowledge and piety might yet characterize the productions of some, who through our instrumentality should be turned " from darkness to light, and
from the power of Satan unto God."
Every association connected with the peculiar services
of this day, consecrated as it is by those who look for the
salvation of the world, must produce a happy influence on
the heart believing that the " fervent effectual prayer of
the righteous man availeth much;" especially on that of
the Missionary, who, however unknown, however solitary
and destitute, still feels that he is included among the
scattered bands for whose special blessing the followers
of Christ unitedly" Thus bend the knee, and lift the hand, in prayer."
We were joined in our worship by all the officers and
crew off duty, some of whom we trust have found access
by the same Spirit to our common Father and God. It
was with no ordinary feelings of gratitude we beheld a
row of these rough but interesting men uniting with us not
only by an external attendance, but, as we believe, in the
warm affections of the heart. Often during the evening
I saw tears of joy glistening in the bright eye of R —;
and could easily imagine the language of his soul to be" If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget
her cunning, if I prefer not thee to my chief joy."
Friday, April 11, J. lat. 8 deg. 30 nin. W. long. 134
(leg. This day has been marked by an incident, my dear
M —, which to those most intimately connected with us,
must take precedence of all others of a temporal nature
which I have yet recorded: the birth of a son to our dear
H —..    It was determined that the young stranger
should be by birth as fully an American as possible; for
this purpose the ensign was immediately hoisted; and
6




62       MAKE THE ISLAND OF HAWAII.
Master C — - first saw the light Wnder the proud wvipng
of our national banner..tpril 15. About the period of the last date we entered
the north-east trade-winds, and have been rushing onward
before their freshness, at the rate of more than two hundred miles a day. Should we continue thus to be prospered, we shall in a very short time make the land of our
long expectation.
Thursday, Jlpril 24. It is even so-the island of Hawaii is before us. For two or three days, we have had
many indications of being in the vicinity of land; several
times yesterday, we imagined we could trace the outline
of a mountainous coast, but were as often deceived by
the heaping of clouds on the horizon. During most of
this morning, we were subject to the same illusions;
though the fixedness of clouds and mist, directly before us,
seemed to indicate the attraction- of high land; and, at
three o'clock this afternoon, asthis thickness began to
rise from the face of the ocean, the broad base of Hawaii,
covered with Egyptian darkness, came peering through
the gloom. The reality was too certain to admit of a moment's question; and was accompanied by sensations
never known before.
In my own heart there was with them a mingling of
pain; —it was the signal for separation from those in whom
I had become deeply interested; and many of whom were
in a state, the issue of which seemed deeply connected
with the destinies of eternity. The first tumult of feeling
was quickly succeeded by something that insensibly led to
solemnity and silence. Several of the crew were seen to
brush a tear from their eyes; and one turned to go below,
with the expression, " Land, indeed it is-and the last and
saddest sight I wished to see!"
At the approach of evening, the mist and vapour slowly
rose higher and higher, disclosing first the cultivated lands
along the shore twenty or thirty miles distant, and then
woodland regions above, with here and there a projecting
cascade. As the scene increased in interest and beauty,
the language of our hearts was, "Hail! and welcome!"
And after tea, having assembled along the side of the ship




HAWAII.


63


next the land, we almost insensibly joined in singing the
appropriate hymnW "O'er the gloomy hills of darkness
Look, my soul, be still and gaze."We had scarce finished the first line, before we were
encircled by the officers and crew, with a seriousness that
bespoke a participation of the sentiments on which we
were dwelling. Some of their bosoms throbbed, I doubt
not, with affections known only to the pious mind. The
last rays of a glorious sun were gleaming from the west,
and a full-orbed moon rising upon us in the east; before
which, the haziness on the land suddenly gave way, without leaving a trace of the gloom, which an hour before had
overshadowed the whole island, except a light drapery of
clouds on the highest points of the mountains. The
change was too sudden and too remarkable not to be noticed; and we could not but hope and pray, that the
greater spiritual gloomWhich we knew filled the land,
might as speedily flee away before the mild light of the
Gospel of Salvation.
CHAPTER V.
HAWAII.
Friday, Jlpril 25. The appearance of Hawaii, this
morning, was exceedingly beautiful. We were within a
few miles of the shore; and the whole of the eastern and
northern parts of the island were distinctly in view, with
an atmosphere perfectly clear, and a sky glowing with the
freshness and splendour of sunrise. When I first went
on deck, the grey of the morning still lingered on the lowlands, imparting to them a grave and sombre shade 
while the region behind, rising into broader light, presented
its precipices and forests in all their boldness and verdure.
Over the still loftier heights, one broad mantle of purple
was thrown; above which, the icy cliffs of MOUNA-KEA, at
an elevation of 17 or 18,000 feet, blazed like fire, from the
strong reflection of the sun-beams striking then long be.
fore they reached us on the waters below. As the morn



64                  A CANOE.
ing advanced, plantations, villages, and scattered huts,
were distinctly seen along the shore; and columns of
white smoke began to rise here and there, from the early
fires of the inhabitants.
At nine o'clock, the breeze being light, a boat was sent
off from the Thames for refreshments. Not long afterwards the deck of our ship echoed with the cry, ".  canoe! —a canoe " —and one of the rude barks of the natives was seen rapidly approaching us. Every eye was
instantly fixed on it with intense observation; and I
hastened to assist H --- from her state-room to the cabin
windows, to view the uncultivated beings with whom we
are to spend our lives. A first sight of these wretched
creatures was almost overwhelming. Their naked figures
and wild expression of countenance, their black hair
streaming in the wind as they hurried the canoe over the
water with all the eager action and muscular power of savages, their rapid and unintelligible exclamations, and
whole exhibition of uncivilized character, gave to them the
appearance of being half-man and half-beast, and irresistibly pressed on the thoughts the query-" Can they be
men-can they be women?-do they not form a link in creation, connecting man with the brute?"  This indeed
seemed to be the general impression; and the officer heading the boat sent to the shore, on his return, exclaimed
as he ascended the deck, " Well, if I never before saw
brutes in the shape of men, I have seen them this morning:" and, addressing himself to some of our company,
added, " You can never live among such a people as this,
we shall be obliged to take you back with us!"
Other canoes soon arrived, and many gathered round
us to gratify their curiosity, and dispose of fish, water
melons, bananas, sugar-cane, and sweet potatoes. They
remained an hour or two, and, notwithstanding our first
impressions, greatly commended themselves to us by their
artlessness and simplicity, and an apparent sprightliness
and intelligence of mind. They seemed rejoiced to know
that more Missionaries had arrived, and on hearing it, addressed one another with great animation, exclaiming,
i' Mihanere — maitai, maitai-nuii,  nui maitai.  "  J Missionary —good, good —very, very good."  They informed




PASS MAUI, RANAIT AND MOORKAI.        65
us, that the Missionaries at the islands were all well; and
were with the king and chiefs at Oahu.
At twelve o'clock we entered the channel between
Maui and Hawaii, and ran close along the north shore of
this last island. Every thing here exhibited great poverty.
The mountains were covered with clouds, and not a tree
or shrub was to be seen. The whole surface of the country was spread with dark rocks; and the little grass perceptible was scorched and sun-burnt. The huts seen
scattered along the beach, looked more like the sties and
kennels of pigs and dogs, than the abodes of men: and
the whole appeared something like the Hawaii I had pictured to my mind's eye, when I first seriously thought of
devoting myself to the Missionary work in these islands.
Yet the sight made me almost draw back from a home so
barren and so miserable.
In the evening Hawaii and Mouna-kea again, at a disstance, afforded another of the sublimest of prospects;while the setting sun and rising moon comlined in producing the finest effects on sea and land. The mountains
were once more unclouded, and with a glass we could
clearly discern immense bodies of ice and snow on their
summits.
Saturday, Jlpril 26. We sailed rapidly during most of
the night, and had the prospect of reaching Oahu early this
morning; but our fine wind left us, and we are now slowly advancing along the western sides of Maui, Ranai, and
Morokai, with the promontories of Oahu still far before us.
All the islands in sight have a mountainous and rocky appearance, not very interesting at a distance, except from
the wild and romantic outlines which distinguish some of
their number.
Hawaii rises on every side from its broad base in gradual and unbroken ascent, till, like a patriarch, it overlooks
the whole cluster to which it gives name. The only irregularity in its outline is occasioned bythree wide-spreading pyramids or cones, forming the summits of the same
number of mountains-Mounakea on the east —Mounaroa on the south, and Mouna-Huararai on the west. The
height of Mounakea has been estimated at 18,000 feet,
that of Mounaroa at 16,000,,and that of Huararai a
10,000 feet above the level of the ocean.
6~




66        MAKE THE ISLAND OF OP AHt
The eastern peninsula of Maui forms one unbroken
mass, rising 10,000 feet high: but the western end is divided into separate mountains; and though not so lofty as
the eastern promontory, is thus in its outline much more
romantic and beautiful. We have particularly admired
three lofty peaks near this extremity of the island, which
the natives on board say are immediately behind Lahaina,
one of the most fertile and beautiful districts in the group,
and the proposed site of a new Missionary station.
Tahurawe is a mass of uninteresting and barren rock, at
an elevation of a few hundred feet only, above the sea.
Ranai is five or six thousand feet high, and so regular in
its contour, that it might be described by a segment of a
circle. While Morokai immediately north of it, like the
west end of Maui, is broken into lofty peaks and spurs of
mountain, jutting boldly into the sea, and imparting to the
island an appearance of greatwildness and sublimity.
sit anchor off the harbour of lHonoruru, JMonday, Jpril
28. At twelv% o'clock on Saturday night, by the light of
a full moon, we made the south-east end of Oahu, five
miles distant. Nothing can surpass the wild beauty of the
promontories forming the headlands of this part of the
island; and I was detained on deck for several hours,
gazing at them with delight, as the ship lay off and on.
waiting the approach of day.
At sunrise, we were close under Diamond Hill, a principal point on the south side of the island. It is the crater
of an extinguished volcano, the bare shell of a decapitated
mountain, whose bowels have been exhausted by fire. It
is of a circular form, many miles in circumference; and
rises almost perpendicularly several hundred feet. Its
sides every where look like seared walls; and are fluted
and furrowed from top to bottom by the washings of water-courses, as if by artificial workmanship. They are
also surmounted in many places by a kind of moulding of
equally singular formation; and again by blocks and piles
of jagged lava, havingin their elevation, the appearance of
the parapets and taements of a dilapidated castle. A
more unique object can scarce be imagined.
Immediately on rounding this point, the whole of the
south side of Oahu burst on the eye in beautiful panoramic




ANCHOR OFF THE PORT HONORURU.           67
view; presenting first the bay of Waititi, encircled by
heavy groves of the cocoa-nut, and other luxuriant treesthen an extensive and perfectly level plain, stretching four
or five miles along the shore, and a mile or two inland X
at which distance a variety of hills began to skirt its side,
rising first in gentle undulations, and then more abruptly,
till they ran off in lofty and pointed ridges, to a range of
mountains dividing the island in the direction of the coast,
and crowning its centre with two or three elevated peaks.
Some of these hills near the plain were covered only with
a smooth green sward, gleaming in the brightness of the
morning with all the softness and richness of velvet;others were sprinkled here and there with single trees and
clumps of various coloured foliage from the darkest ofgreen,
to that which seemed almost white; and all, as they rose
to the mountains, became clothed with a rich woodland
verdure.
At the farther end of the plain, three or four miles dis.
tant, lay the town of Honoruru: to which a fort with its
floating banner, the American Consulate, the Mission
House, and a cluster of masts in the harbour, gave something of an aspect of civilization. Directly in rear of the
town, at the foot of the mountains, another old crater was
distinguished, planted with a battery of guns, from which
also the flag of the nation was waving. Beyond Honoruru to the west, lay a wide extent of open country, apparently under good cultivation; and terminated at a distance of ten or fifteen miles, by a noble chain of mountains, the middle of which is marked by a fine stretch of
table land.
At eight o'clock we cast anchor in the open roads, within a mile of the shore and townI: and I had a moment's
opportunity for more minute observation.  There was
much of natural beauty before us. All was in a glow of
brightness; but there was a want of life and elasticity, that
forced itself at once on the notice: a stillness-not the
stillness of the Sabbath, though it was the day of Godbut the stillness of a torrid clime, hose enervating and
depressing temperature was plainly to be seen in the
strong vibrations of a heated air. While I gazed on the
thickly crowded huts of the natives,-seeming so many
sunburnt ricks of hay-and saw with a glass their naked




68s          VISIT THE SHORE, AND
inhabitants, lounging about in listless inactivity, I felt that
I had reached a strange land-a land, far different from
that in which were the habitations of my fathers, and
wherillB now had been my home.
At Oine o'clock, Mr. Bishop, Mr. Richards, and myself,
with the natives William Kamahoula and Richard Karaioula, accompanied the captain on shore. We rowed halt
a mile along the coral reef by which the coast is here
bound, and on which the surf breaks some hundred
rods from the beach, before coming to the narrow opening
forming the channel into the harbour. The entrance is
short; and we were soon in the midst of ten or fifteen
ships, principally American and English whalemen, and
some five or six of the native vessels, brigs and schooners,
all anchored near to the beach, and some at moorings on
the shore.
The bay is small, not more than half a mile long and a
quarter broad, but deep and perfectly safe. Its western
side is lined by marshes and fish ponds, stretching northward till they meet a small river at the head of the harbour,
by which the congregated waters from the mountains are
poured into the sea. The town of Honoruru lies on a
point, formed by the eastern side of this river, and the curvature of the beach, as it sweeps again towards the ocean;
and presents to the view, first, the establishment of Mr.
Marini, a Spanish settler, consisting of a stone dwelling
stuccoed and whitewashed, with other buildings of similar
construction, enclosed by a wall of coral and mud; then
the residence of the American Consul, a wooden house
two stories high with covered verandahs and Venetian
blinds,-several mud store houses-a small building of
wood belonging to the chiefs, and the fort of mud, covering an acre or two of ground, furnished at an elevation of
ten or twelve feet with embrasures, and surmounted by
small guns. Immediately behind these, thickly crowded
and irregularly built huts of mud and grass-the habitations
of a population of five thousand natives are seen in a
straggling grove ofeocoanut-trees; and beyond, the eau.
tiful and richly cultivated vallies of the interior enclosed by
mountains of great height and wildness!
Perceiving a low stone quay on a point under the fort,




ARRIVE AT THE MISSION HOUSE.


69


and near a cluster of native buildings, we were about to
land on it, when a party of islanders exclaimed " Tabu!
tabu!" and informed our interpreters, William and Richard, that the largest of the houses was the residence of the
king; and he had prohibited any one from landing at that
place. Williamreplied, "J'ew MVissionaries have aived:"
when they ran to the palace; and a fine looking young
female, in a European dress of pink satin, with a wreath of
yellow feathers on her head, made her appearance. It
was Tameha-maru, the favourite queen of RihoRiho. She
expressed her regret that the quay was tabu; and politely
requested us to row to a spot on the beach nearer the
town, to which she pointed, and where she would meet us.
By this time she was joined by a gentleman, who we
afterwards found to be Mr. Jones, the American Consul;
and taking his arm, they proceeded together to the place
appointed.  On landing, we were introduced to her
Hawaiian majesty by this gentleman. She received us
very cordially; and after bidding us welcome to the
islands, consigned us to the care of Mr. Jones, and returned to the point. The queen appeared about twenty
or twenty-two years of age; and though well 'formed, is
tall and masculine in figure. Her countenance is open
and intelligent, with fine black eyes and hair; but her
features are too broad and flat for beauty; and her complexion that of a dark mulatto-the general colour of the
islanders.
The news of our arrival soon reached our Missionary
friends; and after waiting a few minutes at the Consulate,
we had the happiness of receiving the warm salutations of
Mr. Loomis, and the Rev. Mr. Ellis, an English Mission.
ary, under the patronage of the London Missionary Society. Mr. Ellis has been many years at the Society
Islands, and is but rently established at this group.
His experience in Missionary labour, and his acquaintance
with the dialects of the South Seas, make him a most
valuable accession to the Mission here.
Thronged by a crowd of chattering and noisy natives,
whoexpressed their pleasure at our arrival, by hooting and
dancing, and running along our path, we proceeded
immediately with these gentlemen to the Mission Houses,




70   WORSHIP AT THE MISSION CHAPEL.


situated on the plain, half a mile from the village: here
we were introduced to the rest of the family, consisting of
the Rev. Mr. Thurston and Mrs. Thurston, Mrs. BingT
ham, Mrs. Ellis, and Mrs. Loomis. Mr. Bingham was
absent at Waititi, three miles distant, attending religious
service with a large party of chiefs, at a temporary residence at that place.
At eleven o'clock Mr. Thurston preached in English
at the Mission Chapel, to an audience of about one hundred foreigners-sixty of whom were captains, officers,
and seamen, from the ships in port. The hour could not
be otherwise than deeply interesting to us: the chapel in
which we worshipped was the first ever erected on the
ruins of idolatry in this land; and though of the simplest
and rudest construction, being entirely in the native style,
it was on this account beautiful and lovely in our eyes,
We had completed a long voyage, and were permitted to
tread the shores of our destination under circumstances of
peculiar mercy; and now had the privilege of paying our
vows of gratitude to God from one of his peaceful temples, though in the humblest form. I can never forget
the excitement with which I entered its lowly roof, trod
the matted ground, its only floor, and looked at its unbarked posts and rafters, and coarse thatch of grass:
primitive as every thing appeared, I felt that it was a house
of God, and one of the happy gates of heaven.
On returning to the Mission House, we had the
pleasure of meeting the Rev. Mr. Bingham. The report
of our arrival had reached Waititi, and one of the queens
of RihoRiho, had been sent with him as a messenger from
the chiefs there, to request a visit from us at their afternoon
worship; and after dinner we accordingly proceeded to that
place.
The queen, in a dress of white cambric, rode in a light
waggon, drawn by a troop of natives, who hurried it along
with great rapidity; and was followed by a train of attendants, one with a spit-box, another with an umbrella,
some with fans of cocoa-nut leaf, &c. &c. Among the
rest, one bore two feathered staffs, six or eight feet in
length, with handles of ivory and tortoise shell-these
were carried as badges of rank. We ourselves made the




VISIT THE. CHIEFS AT WAITITI.


71


excursion on foot; first over the large open plain to the
east, which is entirely without trees or cultivation; and
then through successive groves of the cocoa-nut, and
plantations of the banana. We found the chiefs encamped in slight bamboo bowers, under a grove of
cocoa-nuts by the sea-side, and near the bay of Waititi.
The party consisted of Keopuolani, the queen dowager,
and mother of the present king; the Prince Kauikeaouli,
her son, a lad nine or ten years of age; the Princess.Va.
hienaena, his sister, two years younger. Kaahumanu, the
favourite queen of Tamehameha, and her present husband,
Taumuarii, king of Tauai and Nihau; his son Keariiahonui; and Karaimoku, or JMr. Pitt, as he is usually called,
Prime Minister both to the former and present king, with
two or three hundred of their favourite attendants and followers. The chiefs were all under one ranai, or rude
bower, the floor being spread with several thicknesses of
mats, on which some were seated, a la turc; others lounging, and some lying down, with their heads resting on
round pillows of silk velvet, damask, and morocco. Behind, or near each one, a servant sat or kneeled, fanning
his master or mistress with a fan made of the leaves of
the cocoa-nut, and holding in the other a small round bowl
of dark polished wood, filled with the leaves of an aromatie vine, for a spittoon. Another servant sat or stood near
each chief with a kahile or feathered staff, which he constantly waved, to keep off the flies. They were all dressed in European costume, and each had a small spelling
book and slate on his mat with him. They greeted us
with much kindness of expression and manner; and seemed interested in the improvements they were making, and
in the religious services of the day. They wrote their
own names on their slates, for us to read, and secure the
right pronunciation; an requested us to leave ours with
them, for the same purpose. They repeatedly shook
hands with us, reiterating their joy at our arrival, saying,
they were glad too, that we had come on the la tabu, the
Sabbath-day; appearing to view this circumstance as a
propitious omen.
The servants, and rest of the common people, were all
in the native dress. That of the men consisfs of a maro




72        THE THAMES ENTERS PORT.
or girdle, eight inches or a foot in width, and nine or ten
feet long, twisted round the loins; and a kihei or mantle,
usually about six feet square. This article is worn by
tying two corners of the same side together, and then
passing the head and one of the arms through the opening
thus made: leaving one arm and shoulder bare, with the
knot resting on the top of the other, and the folds of the
kihei hanging down to the knee, both before and behind.
The drapery thus forpned, is graceful, and not unlike the
toga of the Romans. The female dress consists of a pau,
a roll of cloth, several yards in length, and one in width,
worn in the manner of a petticoat, by wrapping it round
the figure from the hips to the knee; and of a kihei also,
usually of a larger size than that of the men, and worn as
a long shawl, over both shoulders, or over one only. The
full costume of maro, or pau, and kihei, forms a becoming,
and in some degree delicate, dress; but the kihei is seldom used, except in the cool of the mornings and the
evenings; and as generally seen, without it, the exposure
in both sexes is disgusting.
At sunset we returned to the ship, much gratified with
our trip on shore. We again passed the palace without
seeing Riho Riho: and I am sorry to state the reason,he was intoxicated, in which condition he has been four or
five days, since the annual feast in commemoration of the
death of his father, and of his own accession to the
throne, was celebrated.
Harbour of Honoruru, Tuesday, April 29.    The
Thames was towed into the harbour this morning at sunrise, by twenty well-manned whale boats; and was brought
to anchor opposite the establishment of the king, within a
stone's throw of the fort. Our companions disembarked
almost immediately, and took possession of native houses,
prepared for them in the Missionary enclosure. It is
thought mostprudent for H —, to defer removing to a
grass hut as long as possible, and Captain Clasby having
kindly insisted on our retaining our accommodations with
him, we shall remain on board the Thames till she is ready
to proceed on her voyage to the coast of Japan.
It was signified early after our entrance into the har-;hbour to-day, that some of our number would be expected




PRESENTATION TO THE GOVERNMENT.          76
by the king to wait upon him soon at his residence. Four
or five of the gentlemen, including myself, therefore landed
immediately; and were introduced to his Majesty and
most of his court. RihoRiho was much indisposed, being just on the recovery from his late debauch. He was
stretched on a couch of silk velvet, and naked, except a
strip of chints thrown loosely round his waist. Several
servants were fanning him, and one of his queens giving
him a cup of tea. He looked exceedingly stupid; and so
much the worse for his excess, as to be a brutish object,
as he tossed his arms and legs about in all the restlessness
of a fit of nausea. He was too ill to do more than signify
his pleasure at our arrival; and to request the whole company to call upon him and the rest of the chiefs, on their
way from the ship to the Mission House.
Accordingly, at eleven o'clock we all went on shore, for
the purpose of a formal presentation to the government.
The palace stands on a stone quay within a few feet of
the water. It is a large and fine house for one of the
kind; perhaps fifty feet long, thirty broad, eight feet high
at the sides, and thirty at the peak of the roof. The exterior is entirely composed of a thatch of grass; and in
its whole appearance is strikingly like the Dutch barns
seen in many parts of our country. There are two large
doors, one at each end, and several windows without glass,
but furnished with Venetian shutters on each side of the
house. This is the only native building in which I have
observed windows. The interior, making one apartment
only, is neat, well finished, and elegant, for the Sandwich
Islands. All the timbers, the side posts, a row of pillars
supporting the ridge pole through the whole length of
the house, the rafters, &c. &c. are straight and substantial, and all beautifully hewn. The cinet or braid formed
from the shreds of the husk of the cocoa-nut, by which the
whole are fastened together, exhibits both skill and taste
in its manufacture and arrangement. The furniture is
rich, consisting, besides handsome mats with which the
ground is every where covered, of three or four large chandeliers of cut glass suspended between the pillars running
through the centre of the building; of mahogany dining
and pier tables; crimson Chinese sofas and chairs; seve7




74         THE QUEEN TAMEHAMARU.
ral large pier glasses and mirrors; some tolerable engravings, principally of naval engagements and battles in Europe, likenesses of distinguished persons, &c. &c. and
two full-length paintings of RihoRiho, taken by an artist
attached to the Russian squadron of discovery under the
command of Commodore Vaseclieff, which not long ago
visited this group.
The king was much in the same state as when I saw
him after breakfast. Most of the other chiefs, all the
principal personages of the kingdom, including the party
from Waititi, having assembled, made a highly respectable
appearance; especially the favourite queen Tamehamaru.
She was seated on a sofa, at the middle of a long table
covered with a superb cloth, having a writing-desk open
before her, and a native secretary at each end of the table,
recording the names and taxes of the inhabitants of a district, who were paying tribute. These were entering in
single file; and passing along the table on the side opposite the queen, deposited their dollars before her, and left
the house at another door. Every twenty or thirty of
them were preceded and followed by a couple of the king's
body-guard, armed with muskets, and in a kind of uniform.
The only dress of Tamehamaru was a loose pink slip.
She left her writing-desk on the entrance of the Missionaries, but immediately after receiving them, resumed her
seat, excusing herself from farther attentions on account
of the public business in which she was engaged. Her
manners are dignified and graceful; and her whole ap.
pearance that of a well-bred woman, having an unaffected
expression of conscious and acknowledged rank. She is
a woman of business, and appeared well versed in that before her. She has ordered a roll-book to be opened, in
which the names, residence, and tax of all the nation are
to be registered, and it was the superintendence of this
that so much occupied her attention.
Kaahumanu is one of the most powerful of the female
chiefs, and attracted particular observation. She joined the
company after our arrival, and entered the house with much
of real majesty in her step and manner. She was dressed
in the native female costume. The pau or under garment
consisted of about twenty yards of rich yellow satin, ar



KING TAUMUARII.


ranged in loose and graceful folds, with a full end hanging
negligently in front: the upper robe was of purple satin,
in as profuse a quantity. It was cast over one arm and
shoulder only, leaving the other exposed, and flowed in its
richness far on the ground behind her. Her hair was
neatly put up with combs, and ornamented by a double coronet of the exquisite feathers so often mentioned in accounts of these islands: colours bright yellow, crimson,
and bluish green. She appears to be between forty and
fifty years of age, is large and portly, still bears marks of
the beauty for which she has been celebrated, but has an
expression of greater sternness and hauteur than any
other islander I have yet seen.
The young princess Nahienaena came, seated on the 
left shoulder of a stout man, her feet resting on his arms,
folded for this purpose across his breast, and having her
right arm round his head and forehead. This is the way
in which she is usually carried; and she is always followed by a train of twenty or thirty boys and girls, principally of her own age. Her dress, like most of the others,
was in the European fashion; and of black satin trimmed
with broad gold lace, with black satin hat and feathers.
She is a very pretty and well-behaved child, not as an Indian, but according to our own ideas of the characteristics
of childhood. The prince was also present in a round
coat and pantaloons, of black silk velvet. They have
both learned to read and write, and are among the most
attentive and docile pupils of the Mission.
My mind had been strongly prepossessed in favour of
Taumuarii, king of Tauai, before I left America. The
sending of his son George to our country to be educated
at the early period he did, spoke well for his intelligence
and foresight. The deeply affecting interview, (described
in the Journal of the Missionaries,) which took place
between them on the return of the son, after a protracted
abscence of 15 years, and when the father had long
thought him dead; the warm reception given by
Taumuarii to the Missionaries themselves; the active
part he took in the establishment of two of them in his own
island; and the liberality, uniform  kindness, and pa.
tronage extended to them afterwards,-had exceedingly




76    RIHORIHO'S EXCURSION TO TAUAI.
interested me. A knowledge of later events connected
with his history, has excited a still deeper interest for this
distinguished chieftain.
Taumuarii, though an acknowledged tributary prince to
Tamehameha, virtually remained the undisturbed sovereign of Tauai and Nihau, paying only a yearly tax, of
his own levying, to the supreme king.  RihoRiho, on the
death of Tamehameha, felt some uneasiness, lest
Taumuarii should throw off his allegiance; and the apprehension was still farther excited by the receipt of a letter from George Tamoree, shortly after his return from
America, addressed to him as " King of the Windward
Islands" —a limitation of title, by no means pleasing to
his Majesty, the sovereign of the group. With characteristic promptness and enterprise, he immediately determined to visit the " leeward part of his dominions:" and
made the voyage to Tauai under the following circumstances of singular boldness and intrepidity.
Proposing an excursion to Pearl River, a favourite fishing place on Oahu, 12 or 15 miles west of Honoruru, he
set off with a party of high chiefs in an open sail boat, for
this destination. On reaching the mouth of the river,
however, finding the wind fair for Tauai, or its supposed
situation, (he had never visited or seen the island,) he refused to land, and avowed the determination to bear away
for the leeward group.
Against this the chiefs all strongly remonstrated, urging
as decisive objections, the width of the channel, (near a
hundred miles,) its roughness in a fresh wind, the danger
of attempting the voyage in an open and crowded boat,
without provisions or water, the uncertainty of being able
to fetch an island entirely beyond sight, and the smallness
of their number in case Taumuarii should prove hostile.
But fearless himself, equally of the elements and the
prince, contrary to all their wishes and expostulations, he
bade the helmsman to put the frail bark before the wind:
and spreading one of his hands, with the fingers widely
extended upon the gunnel, laughingly said, "There is your
corpass-head her by this point," touching the finger he
believed to be in a line with the destined course!
Almost immediately, the boat was twice nearly capsized,




KING TAUMUARII.               77
and filled by the breaking seas; and with one voice the
Chiefs exclaimed, " We must go back!" —but firm to his
purpose, the king replied, " No! bail out the water and
sail on; if you return with the boat I will jump overboard
and swim to Tauai!"  Theytherefore reluctantly obeyed,
and began with their calabashes to free the boat from
water, a labour they were required constantly to renew, as
they were hurried to the midst of the channel. Fortunately, just before night, they descried the island far to the
leeward of them, and veering their course, before daybreak the next morning, made a successful but hazardous
landing.
The spirit manifested by Taumuarii on the occasion,
was entirely amicable. As soon as apprised of the arrival
of RihoRiho, he went forth to meet him with cordial
salutations of friendship, resigned his best houses for his
accommodation, and immediately despatched a brig and
schooner to the seat of government, at Oahu, to make
known the safety of the king, and the place where the
residue of his suite and household might join him.
At an early period the princes, surrounded by their
respective chieftains, were found engaged in the important topic of the sovereignty of Tauai and its dependencies. A point which, for the time, led to an exhibition
of Roman magnanimity on the part of both.
The moment the subject was introduced, Taumuarii, with
evident emotion, turned to RihoRiho and said —" King
RihoRiho, hear!-while your father Tamehameha lived,
I acknowledged him to be my king-he is now dead —you
are his rightful successor, and you are my king! I have
an abundance of muskets and ammunition, and many subjects at my command; these, with the vessels I have
bought-with my fort and its guns, and with my islands,
are yours. All are yours. Do with them as you please;
and make what chief you choose governor here!"-a
deep silence followed this full surrender of power, and all
awaited, with solicitude, the reply of the young monarch.
In a few moments, with a kind and generous smile, he
said " Taumuarii, I have not come to take from you your
island. I wish not to place any one over it, keep it yourself-take care of it as you have doneand do with your
7*




78


KING TAUMUARiI.


vessels and all your possessions as you please!"-a shout
of joyful approbation from  all parties followed; and
Taumuarii retired from the circle with a smile of contentment and peace.
It seems, however, that there was a want of sincerity on
the part of RihoRiho, in this apparently ingenuous contest
of princely disinterestedness; or at least circumstances
afterwards induced him to change his views of the subject.
For after being entertained for several weeks by Taumnuarii with great kindness and hospitality,* RihoRiho invited
him, on the arrival, from Oahu, of his favourite brig the
Haaheo o Hawaii, or Pride of Hawaii, (the splendid Cleopatra's Barge, formerly of Salem, Massachusetts,) to go
on board of her for an hour or two one morning; and as
soon as they were well seated in the cabin, secretly gave
orders to have the anchor taken, and to bear away for
Oahu, thus making a captive of his royal guest! A principal chief in the party of RihoRiho was left behind, to
take the government of Tauai; and Taumuarii, thus
treacherously torn from his island and queen Tapuli, to
whom he was warmly attached, was c6mpelled by the government, on his arrival at Oahu, in order to throw a veil
over the real motives for this procedure, to marry the imperious dowager Kaahumanu. In her chains, and I am
told they are far from being silken cords, he is still
securely held.
He has a fine figure, though not so large as most of his
fellow chiefs, with a noble Roman face, a style of feature
very uncommon among the islanders, and when he could
feel and exclaim, " I am monarch of all I survey I" must
have looked indeed like a king. But now the expression
of his countenance, and his whole manner indicate a pensive and dispirited mind; he feels himself to be a prisoner
of state, and, though still called king of Tauai, knows that
he will never again enjoy the government of his favourite
island.
The dress of kings will be as interesting to you, as that
of queens and princesses; and since RihoRiho appeared
* See a well written and interesting journal, by Rev. Mr, Bingham,
inthe August numberof the Missionary Herald, for 1822.




KARATIIMtOK.


79


et sauvage, I will mention that of Taumuarii. It consisted of a black silk velvet coat and pantaloons, buff kerseymere waistcoat, white silk stockings, splendid gold watch,
with seals and rich ornaments, &c. &c.
Karaimoku, or Mr. Pitt, the prime minister, is another
individual extensively known to the civilized world. He
is a man of very superior powers, and of great political
sagacity. From his youth he has held a pre-eminent rank
in the nation, both as a counsellor and a warrior. He,
too, is a fine-looking man, apparently between fifty and
sixty years of age; and was dressed in a suit of leadcoloured silk camlet, with white Marseilles waistcoat and
white stockings.
He has been notorious for his dissipation, especially for
intemperance in drinking; and when intoxicated, was
often guilty of the most wanton outrages of various character. Happily, through the instruction and persuasion of
the Missionaries, he has of late entirely abandoned this
habit;-it is now many months since he was known to be
in a state of inebriation. He avows his belief in Jehovah
as the only true God; and uses all his influence, as an
officer of the government, in favour of the external observances of Christianity. By his personal example also, he
supports the Missionaries in their efforts to secure the
moral reformation they are anxious here to achieve.
He is fond of pleasantry, and at times is very playful in
his conversation. Not long since, accompanied by one
of his most intimate friends, he took tea with Mr. Ellis.
After partaking to their satisfaction of this beverage, they
both turned their cups upside down, and placed the spoons
across them. Mr. Ellis asked the reason for this. Karaimoku answered, " It is so with the foreigners, when they
owish no more;" to which Mr. Ellis replied," Perhaps with
sailors in theforecastle it is, but gentlemen merely leave the
spoons in the empty cups."  A few evenings after, the
same two chiefs were at Mr. Ellis's tea-table again.
When Karaimoku had finished, he was careful to leave his
spoon and cup in the manner Mr. Ellis had mentioned, as
customary in good society; but his more negligent friend,.
forgetting the previous conversation, arraned his as in




80


VISIT FROM THE KING. 


the former instance; on which, Karaimoku laughingly
said to Mr. Ellis,-" You see that fellow still belongs to
the 'orecastle,-he has turned his cup up again!"
There were many other high chiefs present: Boki,
governor of Oahu, the brother of Pitt, and Liliha his wife.
Naihi, the national orator, or hereditary speaker in the
councils of the chiefs; Kaikeoeva, the guardian of the
young prince, with Kapiolani and Keaweamahi their wives.
Hoapiri, the husband of Keopuolani, and step-father of the
king. Naihi Tutui, or Captain Jack, as he is familiarly
called, the commander of the native fleet, with many other
inferior chiefs of both sexes.
We remained more than an hour, during which our public papers were presented, our commission from the Missionary Society, instructions, and certificates of American
citizenship: each one of us then made some present of
trifling value, such as a silver pencil-case, &c. &c. to different individuals in the group; and took our leave, satisfied with our reception, and the general kindness manifested towards us.
Friday, May 2. We have to-day been favoured with a
visit from his majesty. At one o'clock, Kehikiri, a chief
of rank, and a punahele or intimate companion of the king,
came on board the Thames, to apprise us of the intended
honour. About two hours afterwards, RihoRiho, and
Kinau one of his queens, a sister of Tameha-maru, and
Karaimoku, with a crowd of attendants, made their appearance on the stone quay. The boats of our ship were
immediately lowered, and brought them on board under
flying colours and a salute. I could scarce believe the
king to be the same man, who, as the intoxicated Indian,
I had seen with disgust three days before. He was per.
fectly sober, and in fine health and spirits. There is nothing particularly striking in his countenance, but his figure
is noble, perhaps more so than that of any other chief; his
manners polite and easy, and his whole deportment that of
a gentleman. Both himself and minister were drest in full
suits of handsome broadcloth of navy blue, well fitted, and
fashionably made; with round beaver hats and Wellington
boots. Tht party remained about two hours, and, after
partaking of some refreshments, left the ship under an



LETTER OF RIHORIHO.


81


other salute. We have also had a visit from Mr. and Mrs.
Ellis, Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, and Mrs. Loomis.
May 3. The king has very handsomely expressed his
good will to the Mission, by refusing to take the customary harbour-fees from the commander of the Thames.
Captain Clasby has received the following letter from him
on the subject,
E. CAPT. CLASBY.
Aroha oe.      Eia kau wahi olelo ia oe. Maitai no oe i kou haavi ana mai i ka kumu hou. Aore oe e
uku i ke ava-aore akahi.
Aroha ino oe.       RIHoRImo IOLANI.
To CAPT. CLASBY.
Love to you. This is my communication to you.
You have done well in bringing hither the new teachers.
You shall pay nothing on account of the harbour-no.
nothing at all.
Grateful affection to you.
RrioRIHo IOLANx.
He remitted the harbour-fees in like manner on the
arrival of Mr. Ellis from the Society Islands; making a
sum of $160, which in the course of three months he has
generously relinquished from a regard to the Mission.
tolani is a favourite name, which he often attaches to his
common signature.
Monday 5. The Sabbath was distinguished by the reception of the reinforcement into the Mission Church;
by the administration of the Lord's Supper; and by the
baptism of our son. The hours for public worship with
the natives are ten o'clock in the morning, and four o'clock
in the afternoon. Mr. Ellis preached in the native language in the morning to a crowded congregation, including the king and all the chiefs, from the text " How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth
good tidings-that publisheth peace-that bringeth good
tidings of good, that publisheth SALVATION." At eleven
o'clock when the services mentioned above took place,
Mr. Richards preached in English to a large congregation,




82  THE KING AND CHIEFS AT CHURCH.


from the words, " The God of heaven, he will prosper us,
therefore we his servants will arise and build."  The
chapel was thronged with the chiefs in rich dresses of silk
velvet, damask, satin, crape, &c. who seemed interested
in the ceremonies, though scarce any of them understand
a word of English. There were a large number of respectable looking foreigners also present-the whole audience making not less than four hundred-gathered to
this humble temple, by the sound of the" church going
bell," which, till within the last three years,
" These valleys and rocks never heard."
RihoRiho attended all the services of the day. He was
still sober, and when so, I can readily believe what is said
of him to be true-that he is one of the most interesting
characters in the nation. He looked remarkably well,
and spent half an hour at the Mission House before the
worship in the chapel began. In a suit of dove-coloured
satin, with white satin waistcoat, silk stockings and
pumps, he appeared both in dress and manners the perfect
gentleman. I have been led to notice the dress of the
chiefs, more particularly than I should otherwise have
done, from my surprise at finding such richness of material, such variety of changes in their wardrobes, and such
taste in the selection and arrangement of colours; I doubt
not it will be equally a surprise to our American friends.
Tameha-maru saw H —     and C —, for the first time
yesterday: she claimed C — as her son immediately,
and would let no one take him from her arms during the
time she remained. She has been to see them on board
the Thames already this morning; and amused herself
and us, by writing and reading both in English and in the
Hawaiian tongue. She does not understand English, but
has learned to pronounce and read it with tolerable accuracy. She is fond of study; puts her knowledge of writing
to daily use, in sending notes and letters to the different
Missionaries, and such of the chiefs as have learned to
write; and is very assiduous in her efforts to make greater
attainments than she has yet secured.
Mission-House, Monday, May 12th. Early this morning, the ship, so long our happy home, cleared the har



DEPARTURE OP THE THAMES.             83
bour, and bore away upon the open sea. We watched the
receding sail with sensations of deep feeling, till she became a speck in the horizon; and, for myself, I may say,
till that speck wavered against the sky in the uncertainty
of the distance, and was at last lost to my sight in the
starting tear of a farewell benediction.
We ourselves disembarked on Saturday, and became
the inmates of an Indian hut within the Missionary enclosure. Our friends would probably think our situation
worthy of deep commiseration, could they see us as we
are. Our house might easily be erected in the smallest
room in yours, my dear M —; it being only fourteen
feet long, and twelve broad; three feet high at the eaves,
and nine feet at the peak of the roof. It is composed of
poles and a thatch of grass, in the native manner, having
no floor, but the ground spread with mats: for windows,
three holes cut through the thatch, without sash or glass:
and a door, without bolt, lock, or bar. In this little cabin,
H-      and myself, C  - and B-, with all our personal luggage, are stowed: the trunks and boxes containing the latter are rather a convenience, however, than
an incumbrance; for, with the exception of a bedstead
and a cot, they constitute the whole of our furniture, and
form our only tables and chairs, articles of which, in propridforma, we have neither. Still I can assure you, we
are truly contented, and feel ourselves even more comfortably accommodated than we could have anticipated on
first landing in this heathen country: if light hearts and
bright faces are signs of happiness, we are not without
good proof that with us there is, at present, a fulness of
that blessing.
Yesterday I preached my first sermon in these distant
islands, to a large and attentive audience; among whom
were most of the officers and crew of the Thames. Some
of those, of whose serious impressions on our voyage we
thought favourably, much to our sorrow have shewn, since
our arrival in port, that " the root of the matter" was not
in them, Their goodness, " a a morning cloud, and as
the early dew," disappeared under the influence of temptation, and the power of sin. Among the number, however,
there is one only in whose moral integrity we had placed




84      ESTABLISHMENT ON SHORE.


confidence. The rest, by their steadfastness in the midst
of a licentiousness that can scarce have a parallel, and
which is so universal in its influence, as almost, without
an exception, to sweep into its deadly vortex visiters of
all ranks and of every age-have greatly rejoiced our
hearts; and encouraged us with fresh confidence to commend them to the love of God, and to the word of his
grace; hoping, that ever after, as now, they will be kept
from the evil that is in the world, and eventually attain
unto everlasting life.
Before Captain Clasby took his leave, the passengers of
the Thames addressed a letter to him and to his officers,
expressive of their gratitude for the unwearied kindness
and attention received from them during the voyage. A
mark of respect and good will, to which they were richly
entitled.
JMay 14. It has been determined in a full meeting of
the Mission, that before occupying any new station, an
exploring expedition shall make a tour through the island
of Hawaii; visiting every place of importance, and bringing a report to the Mission at Oahu.-The Rev. Mr. Ellis,
Rev. Mr. Thurston, Rev. Mr. Bishop, Mr. Goodrich, and
Wself, form the deputation appointed for this purpose.
e are to embark in the first vessel that sails for that
island; and as that may be in a day or two, with the information of this appointment, I will close the journal of
my voyage to the islands.
CHAPTER VI.
RESIDENCE AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS..Mission House at Oahu, Jay 15. A scene was acting
at the time of our arrival, to which I would for a moment
revert: an annual feast in commemoration of the death of
Tamehameha, and of the accession of RihoRiho to the
throne. My notice of it, however, must be principally
from the statements of others; it having commenced
three days before the Thames reached Oahu, and though




FEAST IN HONOUR OP TAMEHAMEHA.          85
it continued for a fortnight, the only day afterwards, distinguished for much parade, was one of special religious
observance at the Mission House.
On the first day previous to our arrival, the king gave a
very large dinner, well served in a ranai or bower, where
tables where laid for two hundred persons. The Missionaries were invited; and Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, Mr. and
Mrs. Ellis, and Mr. Loomis, attended. The foreign residents of respectability, and the officers of the numerous
ships in port, were also of the party. All the natives present wore the European costume. Black had been given
out as the court dress, and every article of that hue in the
place, satin, silk, crape, velvet, and cloth, was immediately
bought: and those who were not fortunate enough to secure any of these, purchased pieces of black silk handkerchiefs, and had them made into dresses.
Tamehamaru in satin and lace sustained the part of
mistress of ceremonies. She personally saw that no one
of the company was in any degree neglected; and extended her kindness even to those who had no claim to special
civility. For instance, seeing a crowd of American seamen without the guard, who to the number of two hundred surrounded the bower, she immediately gave orders
to have refreshments served to them. 
While at table, a procession of four hundred natives,
the inhabitants of eight districts of Oahu, passed before
the party, and deposited a tax, in kind, at the feet of the
king. They were all dressed in white native cloth, and
made a handsome appearance as they marched in single
file; each district led by its headman, or overseer, carrying a large torch of the tutui or oil nut; and all bearing
before them various articles, the produce of their plantations, neatly wrapped up, and tastefully ornamented with
green leaves. This procession was the only thing in the
entertainment, not designed to be in imitation of foreign
customs; such as the style of dress, manner of cooking
and serving up the provisions, the discharge of cannon,
music, &c.
The ceremonies of the last day were altogether Iavaiian in their character; and highly interesting as an ex8




t8bif         THE CAR OF STATE.
hibition of ancient customs, which it is probable will soon
be lost for ever in the light of civilization and Christianity,
now rapidly dawning on the nation. The most intelligent
and influential of the chiefs and people, already speak of
the " time of dark hearts;" and I believe are sincerely
desir8us of abolishing every unprofitable practice which
had its birth in the ignorance of former days. In this
abolition, much connected with the late celebration will be
included; a fact which gives a double interest to its
scenes, and leads us to catch at them as at the relics of
paganism. There is much reason to believe, that a taste
for these ceremonies among the chiefs will be so far lost,
even before the lapse of another year, that they will never
be repeated; and that the notes now taken of them, will
prove to be a record of the last striking features of heathen
usages at the islands on such occasions.
Tamehamaru on this day was, as usual, a conspicuous
object. The car of state, in which she joined the processions passing in different directions, consisted of an elegantly modelled whale boat, fastened firmly to a platform
or frame of light spars, thirty feet long by twelve wide;
and borne on the heads or shoulders of seventy men.
The boat was lined, and the whole platform covered, first
with fine imported broadcloth, and then with beautiful patterns of tapa or native cloth, of a variety of figures and
rich colours. The men supporting the whole were formed
into a solid body, so that the outer rows only at the sides
and ends were seen; and all forming these, wore the
splendid scarlet and yellow feather cloaks and helmets, of
which you have read accounts; and than which scarce any
thing can appear more superb.
The only dress of the queen was a scarlet silk pau, or
native petticoat, and a coronet of feathers.  She was
seated in the middle of the boat, and screened from the
sun by an immense Chinese umbrella of scarlet damask,
richly ornamented with gilding, fringe, and tassels, and
supported by a chief standing behind her in a scarlet maro
or girdle, and feather helmet. On one quarter of the
boat stood Karaimoku the prime minister; and on the
other,.staihi the national orator; both also in maros of
scarlet silk and helmets of feathers, and each bearing a




SPLENDID PAGEANT.                87
kahile or feathered staff of state, near thirty feet in height.
The upper parts of these kahiles were of scarlet feathers,
so ingeniously and beautifully arranged on artificial
branches attached to the staff, as to form cylinders fifteen
or eighteen inches in diameter, and twelve or fourteen feet
long; the lower parts or handles were covered with alternate rings of tortoise shell and ivory, of the neatest workmanship and highest polish.
Imperfect as the image may be which my description
will convey to your mind, of this pageant of royal device
and exhibition, I think you will not altogether condemn the
epithet I use, when I say it was splendid. So far as the
feather mantles, helmets, coronets, and kahiles had an
effect, I am not fearful of extravagance in the use of the
epithet. I doubt whether there is a nation in Christendom,
which at the time letters and Christianity were introduced,
could have presented a court dress and insignia of rank so
magnificent as these: and they were found here in all
their richness, when the islands were discovered by Cook.
There is something approaching the sublime in the lofty
noddings of the kahiles of state, as they tower far above
the heads of the group whose distinction they proclaim:
something conveying to the mind impressions of greater
majesty than the gleamings.of the most splendid banner I
ever saw unfurled.
The queens Kinau and Kekauonohi presented themselves much in the same manner as Tamehamaru; but
instead ol whale boats, had for their seats double canoes. /
Pauahi, another of the wives of RihoRiho, after passing
in procession with her retinue, alighted from the couch on
which she had been borne, set fire to it and all its expensive trappings, and then threw into the flames the whole of
her dress, except a single handkerchief to cast around her.
In this she was immediately imitated by all her attendants: and many valuable articles, a large quantity oftapa,
and entire pieces of broadcloth, were thus consumed.
This feat of extravagance was induced, however, by a
nobler motive than that which once led a celebrated and
more beautiful queen to signalize a festival by the drinking of pearls. It was to commemorate a narrow escape
from death by fire, while an infant: a circumstance from




8&     YOUNG PRINCE AND PRINCESS.


which she drives her name-"Pau," all or coamued —and
" ai, fira  Her hoe was destroyed by an explosion of
gunpowder, which became accidentally ignited. Five men
were killed by it, and Pauahi herself was much burned.
The dresses of some of the queens-dowager were expensive, and immense in quantity. One wore seventy-two
yards of kerseymere of double fold: one half being scarlet, and the other orange. It was wrapped round her figure,
till het arms were supported horizontally by the bulk; and
the remainder was formed into a train supported by personsappointed for the purpose.
The young prince and princess wore the native dress,
maro and pau, of scarlet silk. Their vehicle consisted of
four field-bedsteads of Chinese wood and workmanship,
lashed together side by side, covered with handsome native
cloth, and ornamented with canopies and drapery ofyellow
figured moreen. Two chiefs of rank bore their kahiles:
and Hoapiri and Kaikioeva, their stepfather and guardian,
in scarlet maros, followed them as servants: the one bearing a calabash of raw fish, and a calabash of poe, and the
other a dish of baked dog, for the refreshment of the young
favourites.
From the parts I myself saw, I can readily believe that
the whole procession, from the richness and variety of
dress and colours, wreaths of flowers, evergreens and
feathers, cloaks, helmets, kahiles, and splendid umbrellas,
must have formed an interesting spectacle, even to visiters
from civilized and polished countries.
The king and his suite made but a sorry exhibition.
They were nearly naked, mounted on horses without
saddles, and so much intoxicated as scarce to be able to
retain their seats as they scampered from place to place
in all the disorder of a troop of bacchanalians. A bodyguard of fifty or sixty men, in shabby uniform, attempted
by a running march to keep near the person of their
sovereign, while hundreds of ragged natives, filling the air
with their hootings and shoutings, followed in the chase.
Companies of singing and dancing girls and men, consisting of many hundreds, met the processions in different
places, encircling the highest chiefs, and shouting their
praise in enthusiastic adulations. The dull and mono.




SONGS AND 'DANCES.


89


tonous sounds of the native drum and calabash, the wild
notes of their songs in the loud choruses and responses of
the various parties, and the pulsations, on the ground, of
the tread of thousands in the dance, reached us even at the
Missionary enclosure. But they fell on the heart with a
saddening power; for we had been compelled already
from our own observation, as well as from the communications of others, necessarily to associate with them exhibitions of unrivalled licentiousness, and abominations
which must for ever remain untold.
I can never forget the impressions made upon my mind,
the first few nights after coming to anchor in the harbour, while these songs and dances where in preparation
by rehearsal and practice. With the gathering darkness
of every evening, thousands of the natives assembled in a
grove of cocoa-nut trees near the ship; and the fires round
which they danced, were scarce ever extinguished till the
break of day, while shouts of revelry and licentiousness,
shouts of which till then I had no conception, and which
are heard only in a heathen land, unccasingly burst upon
the car.
The necessary and frequent recurrence in my writing,
of the names of persons and places, and other words, in
the native tongue, leads me to anticipate the perplexity you
may feel in the pronounciation of them. A remark or
two on the principles of the language, and a few hints on
its orthoepy, will enable you with facility rightly to pronounce any word or phrase that may be introduced.
The language, as you know, was exclusively oral till
after the arrival of the American Missionaries: a first
effort by them, was a reduction of it to a written form.
They found it to be simple in its elements, and capable of
being represented in its sounds by a selection of letters
from the Roman alphabet. Its peculiarities consist in a
predominance of vowels, an entire rejection of double
consonants, and of all sibilant, nasal, and guttural sounds,
and the invariable termination of every syllable and word
by a vowel.
The Hawaiian alphabet consists of seventeen letters:
five vowels, a, e, i, o, u, and twelve consonants, b, d, h, k,
1, m, n, p, r, t, v, and w. That no letter should be silent,
8s




90         HIINTS ON THE LANGUAGE.
and that every letter should have one undeviating sound,
were made radical principles in the written language. The
English sounds of the consonants were retained: but important advantages led to the adoption, for the vowels, of
the sounds given to them in the principal languages of the
continent of Europe. To pronounce any word in their
tongue correctly, therefore, it is necessary only to learn
the proper sounds of the vowels and dipthongs.
a is sounded ah, as in man, mat, marry.
e has the sound of a in fate, mate, date.
i has the sound of ee in bee, or i in marine, machine.
o is sounded as in no, note, mote.
u has the sound of oo as in rude, rule, and ruin.
The principal dipthongs, are
ai, sounded as in aisle.
au, sounded ow, as in vow.
oi, sounded as in oil.
ou, sounded like o followed closely by oo.
By way of illustration, I will add the correct orthography and orthoepy of the names of the Islands, and placer
of the present, and contemplated Missionary stations.
J.aimes of the Islands.
Spelled.       Pronounced.
HA-WAI-I,          Hah-wye-e.
MAU-I,            JMoow-ee.
VMORO-KINI,       JMoro-keenee.
TAHU-RAWE,         Tah-hoo-rahway.
RA-NAI,            Rah-nye.
MORO-KAT,         JMoro-kye.
O-A-IHU,           O-ah-hoo.
TAU-AI,            Tow-eye.
NI-HAU,.NJee-how.
TAU-RA,            Tow-rak.,Missionary Stations.
BHONO-RUBU,        Hono-rooroo.
WAI-MEA,           Wye-nmayah.
LA-HAI-NA,        Lalh-hye-nah.
KAI-RUA,          Kye-rooah.
KA-AVA-ROA,       Kah-ah-vah-roal.
WVIAI.A-.K.EA      Wye-ah-kayah.




PtERhfAGE.


91


The name of the largest island is not Owhyhee, as generally written since the time of Cook, but Hawaii. The 0
is satisfactorily ascertained to be the sign of a case only,
and not a part of the proper name. The Islanders say,
JVo Hawaii, I Hawaii, Mai Hawaii, as well as, 0 Hawaii:
forming the regular declension of the noun Hawaii.
SVom. 0 Hawaii,           Hawaii.
Poss. No Hawaii,          Of Hawaii.
Obj. I and mai Hawaii,   To and from Hawaii.
The language is radically the same as that spoken at
ihe Marquesas, Society, and Friendly Islands, and at New
Zealand. It is soft and harmonious in its sounds, and, so
far as a knowledge of it has been acquired by the Missionaries, has proved more copious, forcible, and systematic in its construction; than had been expected.
JMay 18. Our constant intercourse with the king, and
chiefs forming his court, will make an outline of the peerage of Hawaii desirable, if not indispensable to a right understanding of the relative rank, situation, and offices of 
different individuals.
The whole body of chiefs may be divided into three
classes or grades of rank: the first embracing the royal
family, and those most intimately connected with it: the
second, those holding hereditary offices of power, and the
governors of the different islands: and the third, the rulers
of districts, and all inferior chiefs. Those included in the
two first grades are usually called high chiefs; and those
of the third, small, or low. The high chiefs are few in
number, and closely allied both by blood and marriage;
forming in fact but one family. Still they are filled with
the pride of birth; and even the highest, tenaciously prefer
the slightest grounds of precedence.
Rank, as a right, is hereditary in the male and female
line. The dignity of the mother, as well as that of the father, fixes the grade of the child. The individual who ill
rank at the present time takes precedence of all others is
a female, Keopuolani, the queen-dowager, and mother of
RihoRiho, who both by father and mother is the last lineal
descendant of the ancient kings of Hawaii and Maui; and
boasts the unmingled blood of royalty immemorial.  She




HZ      CCHIEFS OF FIRST RANK.
was made captive by Tamehameha in his usurpation; and
espoused by him, principally from a motive of policy, that
his children might have an hereditary right to the throne
from their mother, as well as a right by conquest from their
father.
The following scale will present the number, grade, and
office of the generation of chiefs now living.
Chiefs of the first rank.
Keopuolani, the mother-queen; a wife of the late Tameha-meha, and grand-daughter of Taraiopu, (the Terreoboo
of Capt. Cook,) king of Hawaii.
Riho-Riho, or Tamehameha II., the king.
Kauike-aouli, the prince.
J.ahi-enaena, the princess-children of Keopuolani, by
Tamehameha.
Tameha-maru, 
Kinau,
Kekau-ruohi, lqueens of Riho-Riho.
Pau-ahi, and
Kekau-onohi,
The first three are daughters of Tameha-meha, by Kala-kua, of the former royal family of Maui; and the last, a
niece of Karaimoku, the prime minister.
Kalahu-anu,  queens dowager, the wives of Tamehalal, a,      meha..JVamahana,      e
These three are sisters, daughters of a leading chief of
hIawaii, and grand-daughters of the last king of Maui.
Taumuarii, ex-king of Tauai, and one of the husbands
of Kaahu-manu.
Tapuli, ex-queen of Tauai.
Kearii-ahonui, a son of Taumuarii, and also a husband
of Kaahu-manu.
Wahine-nui, a sister of Taumuarii.
The mother of George Tamoree, (the eldest son of the
ling of Tauai, educated in America,) being only a commoib
woman, the rank of prince, held by George, was only that
of courtesy; and having from dissipation and ill-conduct,
forfeited the favour of his father, he is reduced to the grade
of a commoner; and lives, in comparative obscurity, on a
plantation at Tauai.




CHIEFS OF SECOND AND THIRD RANK. 93


Karainoku, or.M4Vr. Pitt, the prime minister. This
chief originally belonged to the third grade; but now ranks
with the royal family, and, indeed, is virtually king.
Lealea-hoku, only son of Karaimoku.
Chiefs of the second rank.
Kaiki-oeva, the guardian of the prince.
Keawea-mahi, his wife.
Hoa-piri, the guardian of the princess; and present
husband of Queen Keopuolani.
Naihi, the hereditary orator of state.
Kapio-lani, his wife. All these chiefs are the descendants of leading families under the ancient kings of Ha.waii; and have at present large hereditary possessions in
land, and are of great influence.
Kua-kini, or John.ddwns, governor of Hawaii. A son
of Keeaumotu, (a former prime minister of Hawaii,) and
brother of the queens-dowager of Tameha-meha. The
name of Adams was given to him when a child, at the
time the presidential chair of the United States was occupied by our venerable countryman of Quincy. He considers the name a great honour, and prefers it, in being
addressed, to any other.
Keeau-motu, or Cox, governor of Maui, and brother of
governor Adams, and the queens-dowager. Tahurawe,
Ranai, and Morokai, are dependencies of Maui, and subject to its governor.
Boki, governor of Oahu, a brother of Karaimoku, the
prime minister.
Kuii, or Liliha, his wife.
The islands of Tauai and Nihau are at present under
the government of Wahine-nui, the sister of Taumuarii.
Wahine-pio, a sister of Karaimoku, and mother of Kekau-onohi, one of the wives of RihoRiho, belongs to this
grade of chiefs; and also Kaha-laia, a young man, her son
by a brother of Tameha-meha.
Chiefs of the third rank.
Kapihe, or NJ.aihi-tutui-familiarly called Captain Jack
— the captain of the king's vessels.
Kekua-nwoa, superintendent of sandal wood, and king's
treasurer.




94


CHIEFS OF THIRD RANK.


Hanau-znaitai, headman of Waititi, an important district
at Oahu-also,
Keoua, of Lahaina, and
Jtuae, of Wairuku, at Maui; and
Kamakau, of Kaavaroa; and
JMaaro, of Waiakea, at Hawaii-&c. &c.
Chiefs without particular offices, but of the same rank ats
the preceding.
Kaiko and Kehikiri, brothers descended from the king
of Maui: the last Kehikiri is the husband of Wahine-pio,
Mr. Pitt's sister. Both are puna-hele or bosom companions of the king; by which distinction 1i, Karaikoa, Hinau, Puaa, &c. &c. of this grade, are also known. To
this grade, Laa-nui, an interesting young chief, husband
of Nama-hana, one of the former wives of Tamehameha,
also belongs; and many others, who are known only as
small chiefs.
The chiefs of the last ran k are the most numerous, but
are as inferior in consequence to those of the two former,
as an English esquire or baronet is to a royal duke, or noble earl, or marquis.
All the persons included in this catalogue have a variety
of names-here, the substitute for a string of titles. I
have used the most favourite, and those by which the respective individuals are commonly addressed. The chiefs
frequently change their names, or assume new ones from
passing circumstances. For instance, Paa-lua, " twice
blind," is now a name of Karai-moku, often used by himself and others, and perhaps that to which he is most partial. It was assumed in the following manner: When Tameha-meha died, the prime minister expressed his loss in
the death of his friend, by saying that he had lost an eyepaa-kahi-blind in one eye, or once blind; and chose that
word for a name. Within the last year a favourite wife,
the daughter of Kaiki-oeva, died; when he proclaimed
himself paa-lua, blind in both eyes, or twice blind, and he
is now known throughout the nation by the name of Paalua.
All names of persons are significant. Keopuolani is
literally " The gathering of the heavens, or of the clouds oj




UNNATURAL AFFINITY.


95


heaven."  Tameha-meha, "The lonely one."  Tamehamaru, a name assumed by the queen after the death of her
father-" The shade of the lonely one."  Kaahu-manu44 The feather mantle." Kalakua —" The way of the gods."
Kapio-lani-" The captive of heaven."  Lealea-hoku —
" The necklace of stars, or, the starry necklace," &c. &c.
The names of the chiefs are prohibited, or tabu, to the cornm- 
inoners.
The motives which lead to a choice of names for their
children, among the common people, may be estimated by
the following fact.  One of the pupils of the mission belonging to the family of a chief, is named Wai-lepo-lepo.
His father was a personal attendant of Tameha-meha.
The king called on him one day for a drink of water; the
man, in his haste to procure it, took into the calabash that
which was not perfectly pure; and the king, as soon as he
tasted it, dashed the whole, calabash and all, at the head of
the fellow, exclaiming, "wai-lepo-lepo!" " dirty-dirty
water!" On going to his house, the servant found a newborn son, which he immediately named Wai-lepo-lepo; a
phrase not likely to be forgotten by him, even without such
means of remembrance.
From the schedule of rank given, the complicated, and
in some instances shocking affinity of the chiefs may be
learned. All of the first grade, except the prime minister,
besides their present relations, are cousins to each other
by blood. Keopuo-lani was at once the cousin, niece,
and wife of Tamehameha. Three of the wives of RihoRiho are his half-sisters; and one was also the wife of her
stepfather, and his own father Tamehameha; and Taumuarii, the king of Tauai, and his son Keariia-honui, are
both at present the husbands of Kaahumanu. Kapiolani
also has two husbands.
There appears ever to have been close alliances by marriage among the chiefs of the whole group: but till the
conquest of Tamehameha, each island, and often different
districts of the same island, were subject to separate and
independent kings, and the whole government was more of
the feudal form than it now is. All the chiefs being descended more or less directly from former kings, the jealousy and rivalry peculiarly incident to an uncivilized state,




96                GOVERNMENT.1
might make the stability of the present dynasty doubtful,
but for a balance of power kept by the opposing ambition
i and conflicting interests of the two connexions next in
rank and influence to the reigning family: those of the
Maui, or Adams' family, as it is sometimes called-consisting of the governors of Hawaii and Maui, and the
queens dowager-and the prime minister's or Pitt family.
These share equally in the favour of the king, and in the
honours of the nation; and such is the equality of their
power, that an attempt at revolt or usurpation by either.
could not be successful, so long as the other remained
faithful to the king. That they should combine to overthrow the royal family, is scarcely possible: for though il
such case they might be successful, the interests of one
only of the parties could be promoted, while the other
would have hazarded every thing without the prospect of
an advancement. The certainty therefore is, that the)
will both remain loyal; and so long as that is the case,
the present government must be permanent.
This balance of power we consider a happy circumstance; for by it far greater facilities for the achievement
of our enterprise are afforded, than could otherwise be secured. The most formidable impediments yet experienced
to the success of Missions in the Polynesian Islands have
arisen from the rivalship and wars of the petty kings of independent districts and islands.
The government is a despotism; and the rank of the
king and of the chiefs, hereditary. All rights of property
and power are vested in the throne, and are at the disposal
of the king, whose will and word alone are law: though
in important measures he usually takes the sentiment of
the chiefs in council. The appointments of office, such as
governors of islands and districts, commanders of forts,
&c. &c. are made only by the king.
The support of the king is by an annual tribute from all
the islands, rendered at different periods by different districts and islands, as his majesty may direct. It consists
of the produce of the country; hogs, dogs, fish, fowl, potatoes, yams, taro, bananas, melons, &c, &c.-of articles
of manufacture, canoes, fishing-nets, tapa, mats, birds'
feathers, unwrought hemp, &c. &c.; and, since the intro



REVENVE OF THE KING.             97
daction of trade with foreigners, of sandal wood, and occasionally of specie. Besides this tribute, however, the
king has power to levy any extra tax he pleases, and even
to appropriate to his own use, by direct and unintimated
seizure, any personal possession of a chief or other subject: and not unfrequently the whole growth of a plantation is thus borne off by the servants of his household.
without the slightest apology or compensation.
The revenue of the throne has been greatly augmented
of late years, by the charges placed on the port of Honoruru. The pilotage both on entering and leaving is one
dollar a foot on the draft of each vessel; for an anchorage
in the outer harbour sixty, arid in the inner harbour eighty
dollars.*
The exaction of harbour fees originated in a circumstance somewhat peculiar. Tameha-meha in his shrewdness early discovered that the foreign merchants trading
with him were making large profits on the sandal wood
shipped by them from the Islands for the Chinese market:
and determined himself to send a cargo of wood to Canton, in a ship he had just purchased. She was laden with
a large quantity of this article; and despatched under the
command of English officers, with a native crew, and Kapihe, or Captain Jack, as supercargo. It was not for the
interest of foreigners that the voyage should prove successful; and by some means, fair or foul, when the ship
made her appearance off the Islands on her return-(the
broad pennant of her commander, and the Hawaiian flag
floating as triumphantly in the breeze as if she bore the
richest freight of damasks, and crapes, and nankeens, and
china)-and the king in his gladness quickly boarded her,
all her cargo was found to be a bill of charges amounting
to 3000 dollars! In the items of the bill were pilotage
and anchorage, and custom-house fees to a large sum;
and when told that maritime states in other countries derived large revenues in this manner, he immediately said,
" Well, then, I will have fees for my harbour too;" and
from that time the harbour at Oahu has been taxed in the
amount mentioned.
S Since the visit of the Blonde, it has been considerably retuced.
9




9~S      APPEARANCE OF THE CHIEFiS
The king and highest chiefs have a singular mode of
raising money, and one I presume entirely peculiar to
themselves. It is by building a fine new house; and on
taking possession of it, to refuse an entrance to any one,
without a present in cash, proportionate to the rank and
property both of the giver and receiver. The tabu on the
house of the king at the time of our arrival was of this nature. Many of the chiefs presented fifty, sixty, and eighty
dollars; merchants, sea-captains, and foreign residents,
twenty and thirty; and every servant of the household, even
his pipe-lighter, at least two dollars. The whole sum thus
collected amounted to several thousand dollars. A few
months ago the mother-queen raised eight hundred dollars
in the same manner.
The governors of islands and chiefs of districts are en,
titled, by their offices, to an exercise of all the prerogatives
of royalty in their respective limits. They each, like the
king, have their annual tribute from the people; and, like
him, hold the lives and property of all under them at caprice.
All the chiefs have large landed estates under the king;
and derive their support from yearly taxes upon them.
Like the king and governors, they have every right, even
to that of life, over the occupants of their plantations, and
all their people.
The nobles of the land are so strongly marked by their
external appearance, as at all times to be easily distinguishable from the common people. They seem indeed in size
and stature to be almost a distinct race. They are all
large in their frame, and often excessively corpulent; while
the common people are scarce of the ordinary height of
Europeans, and of a thin rather than full habit. Keopuolani, the mother of RihoRiho, and Taumuarii, king of
Tauai, are the only chiefs arrived at years of maturity, I
have yet seen, who are not heavy, corpulent persons. The
governess of Tauai, the sister of Taumuarii, is said to be
remarkably so; Namahama, one of the queens of Tamehameha, is exceedingly corpulent; her sisters Kaahumanu and Kalakua nearly the same; and her brother Kuakini, governor of Hawaii, though little more than twentyfive years old, is so remarkably stout, as to be unequal to




FOOD OP THE CHIEFS.


99


any exertion, and scarcely able to walk without difficulty.
This immense bulk of person is supposed to arise from the
care taken of them from their earliest infancy; and from
the abundance and nutritious quality of their food, especially that of poe, a kind of paste made from the taro, an
esculent root, a principle article of diet. They live on
the abundant resources of the land and sea, and, free from
all toil and oppression, their only care is " to eat, and to
drink, and to be merry."
Many of those whose corpulency does not amount to
deformity, are among the noblest figures imaginable. Kehikiri, or" The thunder," a chief of the Maui family, though
a savage in countenance, in form and muscle is a perfect
Hercules.  Kearii-ahonui, of Tauai, has a handsome
face, and in the classic drapery of a yellow satin maro and
purple satin kihei, presents as perfect a model of manly
beauty as ever challenged the efforts of pencil or chisel.
Many of the common people too have great beauty of person, though on a less noble scale. Only a few mornings
ago, in walking on the plain, I met a young man, eighteen
or twenty years old, whose figure struck me as one of the
most admirable I ever beheld. His black eye sparkled
with youth and spirit; and every motion was free as the
wind, in which his light mantle flowed gracefully from his
shoulder. As with firm and elastic tread he hurried past,
a bright smile accompanied his salutation-" JIroha oe"Love to you: in returning which I almost involuntarily
said, "Jroha no ia oe, e.lpollo" —Love indeed to you,
thou Jlpollo! 
Besides a profusion of melons, cocoa-nuts, bananas,
sugar-cane, &c. &c. some of which they are almost constantly eating, the chiefs have regular meals of baked dog,
or pig, and pickled or raw fish and poe, four times a day;
one as soon as they rise in the morning; another at ten or
eleven o'clock, A. M.; a third about four in the afternoon;
and a fourth at nine or ten in the evening.
Their food was formerly served in wooden dishes anda
calabashes; but now generally on china brought by the
merchants from Canton. It is placed on the ground, before the group for whom it is designed, who, lounging op
tieir mats in the attitude of the ancient Rpmans, partake




100


CUSTOMS AND MANNERS.


of it with one hand, while they recline upon the other.
Servants separate the meat with their hands, wiping them
occasionally in their mouths or on their naked arms or lets;
after which, all eat from the same dishes, using their fingers
in place of forks and spoons.
Whatever pets the ladies may have, whether pigs or
dogs, and most have one of either, share from the common dishes without disturbance, unless perhaps they
should be so ill-bred as to put their forefeet, as well as
their noses, into the food, when a gentle tap may remind
them of better manners.
The pets of the nobles, of whatever kind, have in many
cases uncontrollable privileges. There is at present attached to the palace, a hog of this character, weighing
four or five hundred pounds, called " Kaahumanu," after
the haughty dowager of that name, which is permitted to
range at pleasure, within doors as well as without; and
not unfrequently finds a bed among the satins and velvets
of the royal couches.
The chiefs, male or female, are at once known, not
only by their size, but by their walk, general air, and manners. In these respects there is as marked a difference
between them and the " JVaki ainana," or ignoble vulgus,
here, as there is between the courtiers of St. James and
Versailles, and the peasantry of England or France. A
consciousness of natural superiority, and the pride of adventitious distinction, imbibed and nourished from their
earliest childhood, give them an ease of action, and an
unaffected dignity of deportment, that would distinguish
them as persons of rank, in whatever company they might
appear. You must not understand from this, however,
true as it is, that there is any thing Chesterfieldian, or artificial, in their breeding. They are still uncivilized heathen, living not only in all the simplicity, but in all the
vulgarity, of untutored nature:-and while I can sincerely say, that in them " I see much that I love, and more
that i admire," —I must in candour add,-" and much.
if not all, that I abhor."
Many of them, besides large landed possessions, have
considerable wealth in money, accumulated by the sale of
sandal wood; and in large quantities of rich foreign ma



WEALTII AND DBESS.


101


biufacture. When the Missionaries arrived in 1820, the
usual, and indeed only dress, except in the case of one or
two individuals, was the native costume; but now most
of the chiefs constantly wear a part or whole of the European dress:-the females, on ordinary occasions, a loose
slip with the native pau or petticoat over it; and the men,
a shirt or wrapper.
On Sundays and holidays, and all occasions of ceremony, they appear in full dress, according to our fashion, and
frequently of the richest material. There are several
good tailors among the foreign residents, and the clothes
of the men are generally well and fashionably made. The
men also often send their measures, by the trading ships,
to Canton, and have ready-made dresses brought back to
them. Only a short time.since, the king received four
hundred garments at one time, in this way.
The females do not look so well, or so much at ease in
their dresses, as the men; though the ladies of the Mission
have much of their leisure occupied in sewing for them,
and in teaching them to cut and sew for themselves.
Tameha-maru has become quite skilful in this respect;
and I doubt not that others will imitate her example, and
here, as in other parts of the world, the sex will claim its
prerogative to precedence in all matters of taste and fashion. Some of the ladies of the court, I am told, have talked already of eating less poe than they have done, that
their persons may be more delicate, and their clothes sit
better.
The houses of the chiefs are generally large, for the
kind of building,-from  forty to sixty feet in length,
twenty or twenty-five in breadth, and eighteen or twenty
in height at the peak of the roof. The sides and ends, as
well as the roof, are of thatch, and the whole in one apartment. They are generally without windows, or any opening for light or air, except a wide door in the middle of a
side or end. In the back part of the house, the personal
property and moveables, such as trunks, boxes, calabashes
and dishes for water, food, &c. are deposited; while the mats.
for sitting, lounging, and sleeping are spread near the door,
Every chief has from thirty to fifty and an hundred personal attendants, friends and servants, attached to his
93




102


HABITATION AND ATTtlNDANT'g


establishment; who always live and move with him, and
share in the provisions of his house. All these, except the
bosom friends, or punahele, have different offices and duties:-one is a pipe lighter, another a spittoon carrier, a
third a kahile bearer, &c. Others with their families, prepare, cook, and serve the food, &c. All the former, from
the bosom friend, or punahele, to the pipe lighter, eat from
the same dishes and calabashes with their master; and
form, at their meals, a most uncouth and motley group.
In every respect indeed, as well as in that of eating, the
household servants of the whole company of chiefs, from
the king to the petty headman of a village, seem to enjoy a
perpetual saturnala.
The formation of this establishment takes place
immediately on the birth of a chief, whether male or
female. A kahu or nurse is appointed, who assumes all
the care of the parent, and direpts the affairs of the child,
till he is od enough to exercise a will of his own. Thus,
often, very little intercourse takes place between the parents themselves, and the young chief: the former not
unfrequently residing at a different district, or on a different island. The present prince and princess, who are
both children, have each separate houses, and a large train
of attendants: and though their guardians of state reside
near them, they are left very much to their own will, or to
that of their kahus or nurses.
I have seen a young chief, apparently not three years
old, walking the streets of Honoruru as naked as when
born, (with the exception of a pair of green morocco shoes
on his feet,) followed by ten or twelve stout men, and as
many boys, carrying umbrellas, and kahiles, and spitboxes, and fans, and the various trappings of chieftainship.
The young noble was evidently under no controul but
his own will, and enjoyed already the privileges of his
birth, in choosing his own path, and doing whatever he
pleased.
This portion of the inhabitants spend their lives principally in eating and drinking, lounging and sleeping; in
the sports of the sur, and the various games of the country; at cards, which have long been introduced; in hearing the songs of the musicians, a kind of recition ac



IEMPLOYMENT OF TIME.


108


companied by much action; and in witnessing the peru
formances of the dancers.  They are not, however,
wholly given to idleness and pleasure. It is customary
for the male chiefs to superintend, in a degree, any work
in which their own vassals, at the place where they are residing, are engaged, whether of agriculture or manufacture: and the female chiefs, also, overlook their women in their appropriate occupations, and not unfrequently 
assist them with their own hands.
A great change appears about to take place among the
chiefs, in the general manner of employing time. The
palapala and the pule, letters and religion, as presented by
the Missionaries, are happily beginning deeply to interest
their minds; and books and slates, I doubt not, will, as
is the fact already, in individual cases, soon universally
take the place of cards and games, and every amusement
of dissipation.
These general and desultory remarks will give you, my
dear M —, some idea of the external character and
state of the nobler part of the nation, for whose benefit
H --  and myself have sacrificed the innumerable enjoyments of home. As to their qualities of heart and mind,
they in general appear to be as mild and amiable in disposition, and as sprightly and active in intellect, as the inhabitants of our own country. Ignorance, superstition,
and sin, make all the difference we observe: and though
that difference is at present fearful indeed, still we believe,
that, with the removal of its causes, it will be entirely done
away.
Notwithstanding the dreadful abominations daily taking place around us, drunkenness and adultery, gambling
and theft, deceit, treachery, and death, all of which exist
throughout the land to an almost incredible degree, such
has already been the success attending the efforts at reformation, made in the very infancy of the Mission, that
we are encouraged by every day's observance, with fresh
zeal to dedicate ourselves to the work of rescue and salvation. No pagan nation on earth can be better prepared
for the labour of the Christian Missionary; and no herald
of the cross could desire a more privileged and delightful
taskthan to take this people by the outstretched and




104 POVERTY OF THE COMMON PEOPLE.


beckoning hand, and lead their bewildered feet into paths
of light and life, of purity and peace; nor a greater happiness than to be the instrument of guiding, not only the
generation now living, in the right way, but of rescuing
from wretchedness and spiritual death, millions of the generations yet unborn, who are here to live, and here to die,
before the angel " shall lift up his hand to heaven, and
swear that there shall be time no longer!"
CHAPTER VIL.
POVERTY OF THE COMMON PEOPLE.
Thursday, May 20. An opportunity of making our
voyage to Hawaii has not yet been presented. I am
anxious to commence the contemplated tour, though
every day more and more persuaded, from what I find to
be the state of the common people, that it will be attended
with great privation, and with much to shock and to disgust.
This class of the inhabitants constitutes at least one
hundred and forty-nine thousand, of the hundred and fifty
thousand supposed at present to be the population of the
group. In external appearance, and manners and habits
of life, the kanakas, or common natives, present a strong
contrast to the chiefs; and are indeed a wretched people
-subject, not only to a total blindness of mind and heart,
but also to the most abject poverty. If the former are the
objects of an interest, to the Missionary, approaching to
admiration; the latter are of a compassion that sometimes borders on agony; and in beholding their de.
gradation, and the near approach they make to the level of
the brute, I am often ready " to blush, and hang my head,
to think myself a man."
The greatest wealth they can boast consists of a mat on
which to sleep-a few folds of tapa to cover them; one
calabash for water, and another for poe-a rude implement or
two for the cultivation of the ground-and the instruments
used in their simple manufactures. Tare, potatoes, and




TARO, ITS NATURE.


105


salt, with occasionally a fish, constitute their general food:
while all else that they grow, or take, and every result of'
their labour, goes to meet the series of taxes levied by the
king, and his governors, and their own respective chiefs.
The spontaneous production of the islands is very limited; and labour at all times of the year is necessary to the
support of life. In this respect this group differs widely
from the Society and other islands of the South Seas,
where, eight months in twelve, the natives have only to
pluck their food, principally bread-fruit, from the trees
overhanging their habitations. The growth of the breadfruit h6e, is confined to a few districts on one or two
islands, and where found, yields a very partial supply of
food, at any season. 
Taro, an article which I have repeatedly mentioned, is
the principal food of the Sandwich Islanders, and to the
whole nation answers the double purpose of vegetables and
bread. The genus of plant to which it belongs, is the
arum; a root growing in many parts of America, and generally known by the names of the wild, Indian, and French
turnip. The taro is the arum esculentum of botanists; and
is used in many other warm climates as a vegetable.
It here occupies most of the cultivated ground, especially such as is capable of being overflown by water;
and the planting, irrigation, and necessary care of it, forms
the most laborious part of the native farming. The
islanders have arrived at great skill in the cultivation of
this plant; and perhaps their mode of growing it, considering the general face of the country, scarce admits of
improvement, unless it be in the implements with which
they work. The beds in which the taro stands are usually
square or oblong, of various sizes, from that of a few yards
to half an acre. These are formed with great care; first
by excavating the earth to a depth of two or three feet, and
converting the dirt thrown out into strong embankments
on every side. The sides and bottom are then beaten
with the woody ends of the cocoa-nut leaf, which are broad,
and, when dry, exceedingly hard, till they are impervious
to water: after which, the tops of the ripe root, by which
the plant is propagated, cut off just below the formation of
the leaves, are set out eighteen inches or two feet apart, in




106            NATIVE COOKING.
a thin layer of soil and dried grass, and the water let upon
them till the leaves float on its surface. The roots are
kept thus covered with water, till they become fit to eat: a
period of from nine to fifteen months, though they continue
to grow for two years or more, and improve in quality to
the end of that time.
The leaves of the taro are large and heart-shaped, and
of a light green colour. The root is of a regular oval
form, from four to eight inches in length, and from six to
twelve in circumference. In its natural state, whether
ripe or unripe, both the leaves and root have all ie acrid
pungent taste of the genus of plants to which it belongs;
but on being thoroughly cooked, either by baking or boiling, it becomes mild and palatable, without any peculiarity
of taste, more than belongs to good bread. It is compact, and, both before and after cooking, white, with a
slight tinge of purple, on the exterior; when poor, or unripe, the colour throughout is a dull lead.
The natives prepare it for use, first, by baking it, in the
only manner practised among them. This is, by digging
a hole in the ground a foot or two deep, and five or
six feet in circumference, and placing a layer of stones on
the bottom, upon which light wood is placed and a fire
kindled. Other stones are laid upon the fire, and by the
burning of the wood the whole becomes ignited. Those
on the top are then drawn off, and the taro, or potatoes, or
fish, pig, or dog, &c. closely wrapped in the leaves of the
banana, or of the ti, (dracaona terminalis, growing in great
abundance here,) is laid on the hearth of stones still remaining at the bottom, and immediately covered with the
rest. A little water is poured on the pile to create a
steam, arid the whole hastily buried with earth, by which
the heat-and steam are kept from escaping, and the article
in the umai or oven, becomes baked.
The taro, after being thus cooked, is in the next place
made into the favourite poe. The process in this is simple, though so laborious as to be performed by the men.
It is merely by beating the taro upon a short plank of hard
wood, slightly hollowed in the middle like a tray, with a
stone something in the shape of a thick and clumsy pestle,
wetting it occasionally with water, and moulding it till it




Po, AND MANNER OF EATING.        107
becomes an adhesive mass like dough. It is then put into
a calabash, diluted with water till of the consistency of
paste, and set aside for fermentation, This soon takes
place, and the poe is fit for use in a day or two, though preferred when four or five days old. It is eaten by thrusting
the fore-finger of the right hand into the mass, and securing
as much as will adhere to it in passing it to the mouth,
with a hasty revolving motion of the hand and finger. The
only name of the fore-finger is derived from this use of it,
Ka rima poe," " the finger poe, or poe finger."  The
second finger is often also used; and not unfrequently
the thurmb at the same time. This is the usual mode of
eating it-a dozen or more from one calabash; but I have
seen the calabash taken up with both hands, and applied
to the mouth as in drinking; and thus passed from one to
another, round the whole group.
Hard or dry poe is tare baked and beaten in the manner
described, but not moistened with water. It is not much
eaten in this state; but is packed in small bundles, and
bound in leaves, to be diluted and formed into soft poe at
pleasure. In this manner it will keep without injury for
months; and makes a principal article in the sea stores of
the native vessels.
We find taro a pleasant vegetable. It is most excellent
when cut into slices and fried, after being baked or boiled,
though less nutritive than in the form of poe.
Next to taro, the sweet potatoe is a principal article
of cultivation. The yam also is grown; but chiefly at the
leeward islands, Tauai and Nihau. Indian corn has been
introduced, and will probably become extensively an article of food. Other esculent plants, cabbages, onions,
pumpkins, squashes, cucumbers, beans, radishes, &c.-the
seeds of which have been brought by the Missionaries and
other foreigners, are becoming abundant: but they are
cultivated almost exclusively for the refreshment of shipsy
and the tables of foreign residents. Sugar-cane, and a
great variety of the plantain and banana, are indigenous,
and occupy a considerable portion of every plantation.
The cane, however, is used by the natives only as a fruit.
Water melons and musk melons were introduced by Vancouver, and are now abundant every where.




108        MANUFACTURPE OF CLOTH.
In the cultivation of the ground, the making and care of
artificial fish-ponds, a part of the possessions of every
chief, may be included. These are constructed much in
the manner of the tare plantations; and after the water is
let into them, areAflled with young fish from the sea, principally the fry of the grey mullet, a fish of which the chiefs
are particularly fond.
The building of houses, construction of canoes, making
of fishing nets, wooden dishes and bowls, &c. are labours
assigned to the men; while the manufacture of cloth in all
its processes, and the platting of mats, &c. fall to the department of the women.
The cloth is of tedious manufacture. It is formed from
the inner bark of the mourus papyrifera, or paper mulberry,
here called wauti, and cultivated for this purpose, in regular groves on every farm. The plant is kept trimmed
to a single shoot, from its earliest growth, to secure a stem
unbroken by branches; and when it has attained the
thickness of an inch or two, and the height of ten or twelve
feet, is cut down for use. The bark is taken off in a single piece, by a longitudinal incision from end to end; the
exterior coat scraped off; and the interior of each peace
spread out, and rolled together in its length, and left till it
has acquired a flat surface. The whole is then placed in
water, till it becomes covered with a mucilaginous substance; after which it is laid on a plank, and beaten with a
short square stick of hard wood, to the tenuity desired. Its
length and breadth are increased at pleasure by the addition of the bark; and should any part become too thin
before the whole has received an even texture, the difficulty
is obviated in the same way. After the whole is of the
texture and size required, it is laid in the sun to bleach and
dry. 
The wooden sticks or mallets, used in beating, have one
side smooth, another coarsely grooved, the third very finely furrowed in the same manner, and the fourth more or
less closely checked in squares or diamonds: and thus,
according to the side used in beating, a corresponding
figure is given to the body of the cloth. That beaten with
the plain side, is smooth like paper; that with the coarse
groove, has something the appearance of dimity; that with




MANUFACTURJE OF CLOTH1X            10
iho close, more like corded muslin; and that with the
check, like the web of fine diaper.
The thickness of the different kinds of cloth is various.
I have seen females with mantles of it, as thin and transparent as Italian crape; which, at a short distance, it
greatly resembled.  That generally used for maros and
paus, is more compact, like paper. The kiheis of the men
and covers for sleeping, are still firmer and thicker; and
are composed of several sheets of the former, spread with
a gelatinous wash made from the gum of a tree, and then
beaten together. There is a kind still superior in texture
and beauty, worn by the chiefs both for maros and paus:
it is made of the best bark, and is as thick as morocco, to
which, stamped with the brightest colours, and glazed
with a composition having the effect of varnish, it bears a
striking resemblance.  The tapa moe, or cloth for sleeping, is the largest in size; each sheet, ten of which, fastened together at one end, form abed-cover, being as large
as an ordinary counterpane.
The tapa is naturally of a light colour, and capable of
being bleached till perfectly white.  Much of it is worn
in this state; but the greater portion is stained with a variety of dies, extracted with much skill from different indigenous plants.  The colours are often very beautiful,
principally green of every shade, from the lightest to the
darkest; yellow, from a dark salmon to straw colour; red.
from a rich crimson to a delicate blossom; purple, from a
dark plum through all the hues of lilac to a light dove 
brown, from chocolate to fawn; and black and white.
The cloth is dyed with one of these plain throughout, and
worn thus, or is again stamped with several others, in ai
endless variety and combination of figures.  These they
devise with much ingenuity and taste, or imitate skilfully
from those on imported articles.
The pattern intended to be impressed upon the cloth is
cut on the inside of a piece of bamboo. The bamboo is
then dipped into the colour prepared, carefully transferred
to the tapa, and pressed closely upon it with the fingers
and hand: it is then returned into the die again, and again
placed upon the cloth, till the whole piece is covered with
the figure and colour or colours.
10




110         MANUFACTURE OF MATS.
The best made and coloured tapa is little inferior it
beauty to most common calicoes and chintzes, but so perishable in its quality, as to be an expensive article of clothing. Some kinds are saturated with the oil of the cocoa*
nut, to make them more durable and to shed water;
but even these quickly wear out, and require to be renewed every few weeks. That which is not oiled does not
allow of being washed; and a new suit is necessary once
a month.  An immense deal of time and labour must
therefore be requisite to meet the demands of the whole
population.
The manufacture, by the females, next in importance to
the making of tapa, is that of mats, which form the seats
of the islanders in the day, and their beds at night. The
lounges and beds of the chiefs are generally eight or ten
feet square, and consist of many thicknesses of these, from
a dozen to thirty and forty, and even a greater number.
The materials of which they are made are of two kinds;
one, a species of rush, and the other, the leaves of the
hala, a palm, the pandanus odorotissimus.  Those of the
last article are most valuable, as they are much the most
durable, and admit of frequent washing, which the rush
mats do not. Both kinds are woven or braided by hand,
without the aid of frame or instrument; and though often
twenty feet square, and even larger, are finished with great
evenness of texture and regularity of shape. Some of the
bala mats are very coarse; and others of various braid,
to the very finest and most beautiful specimens of matting
I ever saw. These last, however, are generally small, finished with a deep fringe at the ends; and carried on the arm of
a servant, after his chief, to be spread on other mats, on
which he may choose to sit.  I have observed one of this
kind, in the train of the young princess, of a braid almost
as delicate and even as that of a Leghorn hat, and of the
' most beautiful whiteness.
The rush mats are soft and pleasant, and many of them
very fine. The Leeward Islands, Tauai and Nihau, are
most distinguished by the manufacture of these.  They
are there ornamented, with much taste and ingenuity, by
stained grass, of a rich and glossy brown, interwoven with
bte body of the mat, or wrought on its upper surface, in the




INDOLENCE OF THE PEOPLE.        1   1
manner of embroidery, in a variety of figures, such as diamonds, stars, stripes, waving lines, &c. &c.
Besides being engaged in these manufactures of cloth
and mats, the females, especially those attached to the
households of the chiefs, spend much time in making articles of ornament; in the braiding of human hair for necklaces; trimming and arranging feathers for wreaths and
kahiles; polishing tortoise shell and the ivory of whale's
teeth, for finger rings, and the handles of feathered staffs,
&c.
Notwithstanding the variety of apparently necessary
employment falling both to men and women, few of either
sex devote more than four or five hours of the twenty-four
to work. Though unavoidably more laborious than many
other Polynesians, they partake of the indolence of character incident to the inhabitants of tropical climates, and
sleep and lounge away more than half their time, while
much of the remainder is given to amusement and pleasure. It is, however, difficult to determine how far the
Sandwich Islanders partake of this indolence, from the
fact that there is no motive for industry presented to them,
beyond the fear of starvation, and a dread of the displeasure of their chiefs.
One of the strongest inducements to exertion-that of
a right of property-is entirely unknown. VVere not this
the case, the profit which every farmer might derive from
the visit of ships for refreshment, would soon cause the
face of the country to assume a new aspect. But this
means of emolument is a monopoly of the king and chiefs;
and only proves a new source of oppression to the people,
by increasing their toil, without adding to their possessions.
Two thirds of the proceeds of any thing a native brings to
the market, unless by stealth, must be given to his chief;
and, not unfrequently, the whole is unhesitatingly taken
from him.  In two or three instances, when conversing
on the beach with the officers of ships, I have seen money just put into the hands of a native, by them, for a
bunch of fruit slipped from under his kihei into their boat,
taken directly, and openly, away, by some one appointed
to detect any traffic of the kind; and whose proceeding
was not for a moment to be questioned or resisted,




112


OPPRESSION OF THE PEOPLE;


Nor is there greater inducement to industry, from motives of immediate personal enjoyment. Any increase of
stock, or growth of a plantation, beyond that necessary to
meet the usual taxes, is liable to be swept off at any hour;
and that, perhaps, without any direct authority from king
or chief, but at the caprice of some one in their service.
An instance of this kind lately occurred at Oahu, which
will shew the extremity, if not the extent, of these depredations. The poverty of many of the people is such, that
they seldom secure a taste of animal food, and live almost
exclusively on tare and salt. A poor man of this description, by some means obtained the possession of a pig,
when too small to make a meal for his family. He secreted it at a distance from his house, and fed it till it had
grown to a size sufficient to afford the desired repast.  It
was then killed, and put into an oven, with the same precau.
tion of secrecy; but when almost prepared for appetites,
whetted by long anticipation to an exquisite keenness, a
caterer of the royal household unhappily came near, and,
attracted to the spot by the savoury fumes of the baking
pile, deliberately took a seat till the animal was cooked,
and then bore off the promised banquet without ceremony
or apology!
Such is the civil condition of the mass of the nation.
Their only birthright is slavery; and its highest immunities cannot secure to them a right of, life, much less any
inferior possession. Surely to such, the messages of salvation must prove indeed " glad tidings of great joy."
May they receive them with thanksgiving; and, through
them, become free in the spirit of the gospel, and rich in
the inheritance of eternal life!
1May 22. Last night I strolled a mile through the marshes and fish-ponds, along the beach south of the Mission
House. In attempting to give you a sketch of my walk,
you will almost think me sporting with your credulity, by
a picture of poverty and filthiness too degrading to be real.
The largest hut I passed was not higher than my waist;
capable only of containing a family, like pigs in a sty, on
a bed of dried grass, filled with fleas and vermin. Not a
bush or shrub was to be seen around; or any appearance
whatever of cultivation. It was tbh time of their evening




LOATHSOME DISEASES.              113
repast; and most of the people were seated on the ground,
eating poe surrounded by swarms of flies, and sharing their
food with dogs, pigs, and ducks, who helped themselves
freely from the dishes of their masters! The tout ensemble
was almost too disgusting to be witnessed; and while I
gazed I could but exclaim"  -.... Can this be man?Bone of the bone, and flesh of the flesh, of him,
Whose majesty dignifies and crowns creation's plan,And without whom, 'twere wild profusion all,
And bootless waste?"
The hope of enlightening and elevating such seemed
almost rashness; and I turned from them more than ever
persuaded, that nothing less than the power which first
spake light from darkness, can scatter the gloom in which
they are enveloped.
I should be doing injustice to your wish and expectations, of having the manners and habits of the people, on
points capable of being touched-and there are not a few
that can never be mentioned-presented to you u living as
theyrise," were I to pass in silence, subjects,which, though
not the most pleasant that might be selected, daily and
hourly obtrude themselves on the observation.  Among
these, is the prevalence of a most infective and loathsome
cutaneous disease: not altogether unknown in our own
country. This contagion is so common, and I might say
universal here in all ranks, as to be without reproach, except in the eyes of a foreigner. I was somewhat startled,
a day or two after our arrival, to have the question put to
me, " Whether I had any thing to cure the itch?" immediately after shaking hands with a high chief, whom I at
once perceived to be greatly infected with it.  The etiquette of the court seemed to require this manner of salu.
tation; and I thought it would be impossible for me to escape the disorder, even for a week.  I learned from the
older Missionaries, however, that they had shaken hands
with thousands with perfect impunity; and thus far, I have
myself been equally fortunate.
It must be less contagious, than the disease known in
America by the same name; and appears also to be less
iritable and troublesome. Most of the cJiefs are at pre1W0A.




114      FILTHINESS OF THE PEOPLE.
sent free from it, but the common people are every where
greatly infected.  Few seem to regard it as an evil, or
take any measure to divest themselves of it.  Like most
other diseases, its introduction is attributed, by the natives,
to foreigners; though, I suspect it has existed among
them to " a period to which the memory of man runneth
not contrary."
Not to mention the frequent and hideous marks of a
scourge, which more clearly than any other proclaims the
curse of a God of purity, and which, while it annually consigns hundreds of this people to the tomb, converts thousands, while living, into walking sepulchres; the inhabitants, generally, are subject to many disorders of the skin.
The majority are, more or less, disfigured by eruptions
and sores; and many are as unsightly as lepers. The
number of either sex, or of any age, who are free from
blemishes of the kind, is very small; so much so, that a
smooth and unbroken skin is far more uncommon here,
than the reverse is at home.
I am not physiologist enough to say to what cause this
fact is attributable:-perhaps to a very free use of salt in
eating, in conjunction with the habit of constant sea-bathing. Taro, too, when in the form of poe, though of easy
digestion, has probably a great tendency to grossness of
blood. Whatever the cause or causes may be, the effect
certainly detracts much from the good appearance of the
people.
Another subject, which I would notice from the same
reason that led to the introduction of the preceding, is
nearly allied to it, according to our ideas, in point of offensiveness. A clue to it may be given, without a mention
of names, by referring you to the spirited effusion of a
genius, beginning
"Ha wbhare ye gaw'n, ye crawlin ferlie 1"
Had the bard of Ayr lived on these coral-bound shores,
the novelty of the sight, at least, would never have induced him to immortalize by song, the excurions of one of
that disgusting race. In our humble kirk, in place of one
on "Miss's bonbW," dozens may at any time, be seen
sporting among the decorated locks of ignoble heads e




FOREIGN BESIDENTS.              115
while, not unfrequently, a privileged few wend their way
through the garlands of princes of the blood, or triumphantly mount the coronets of majesty itself'!
As to the servants of the ehiefs, and the common people, we think ourselves fortunate indeed, if, after a call of
a few minutes, we do not find living testimonies of their
visit, on our mats and floors, and even on our clothes and
persons! The bare relation of the fact, without the experience of it, is sufficiently shocking. But the half is not
told; and, I scarce dare let truth, here, run to its climax.
The lower classes, not only suffer their heads and tapas to
harbour these vermin; but they openly, and unblushingly,
eat them! Yet so fastidious ar y, in point of cleanliness, that an emetic could scarce be more efficaciously administered, than to cause them to eat from a dish in which
a fly had been drowned! So much for the force of custom, and the power of habit.
They have, by some, been called a cleanly people, in
their persons and food; but, with these facts, which cannot be denied, in view-and, to which may be added, long
and dirty nails, like the talons of birds, &c.-it is difficult
to allow them a right to the epithet, notwithstanding the
practice of spending hours together in the foamings of the
surf, or the dashings of the mountain torrent; and the
punctilious observance of the ceremony of washing, at
least the fingers, before and after their meals.
JMay 24. When last in Schenectady, I was particularly
requested to make inquiry respecting Anthony Allen, an
African, residing on this island, once the servant of a gentleman of that city. He is quite a respectable man; and
has a very neat establishment, consisting of a dozen houses
built in the native manner, and covered with mud: one for
sitting and sleeping, one for eating, another for a store.
house, another for milk, a kitchen, blacksmith's shop, &c.
&c. He owns large flocks of goats, and a few cows; and
supplies the tables of many of the residents with milk.
le also keeps a kind of boarding-house for seamen; by
these means, and the cultivation of a small farm which ho
holds under Hevaheva, the ex-highpriest, he obtains a
comfortable support for himself and wife, a modest native,
id tlree children. He has been very ki  to us in seod



116            FOREIGN RESIDENT.*
ing melons, bananas, several kids, and a regular daily
supply of milk from his goats.
His plantation is two miles from the Mission House on
the plain, towards Waititi. The road to it, although the
plain is uncultivated and entirely unshaded, affords the
most pleasant walk in the immediate vicinity of Honoruru.
The mountains are too distant to be reached in an hour's
ramble; and the shore is lined only with fish-ponds and
marshes. Every thing short of the mountains is sunburnt
and dreary. There is not a tree near us, much less groves,
in whose shade we might find shelter from the heat of a
torrid sun: no babbling brooks, no verdant lawn, no secluded dell or glade, f   e enjoyment of solitude and
thought; inded nothing that ever formed part of a scene
of rural delight.
The number of foreigners residing at the islands is far
greater than I supposed.  Four American mercantile
houses-two of Boston, one of New York, and one of
Bristol, Rhode Island-have establishments at this port,
to which agents and clerks are attached. Their storehouses are abundantly furnished with goods in demand by
the islanders; and, at them, most articles contained in
common retail shops and groceries, in America, may be
purchased. The whole trade of the four, probably amounts
to one hundred thousand dollars a year: sandal wood
principally, and specie, being the returns for imported manufactures.  Each of these trading houses usually has a
ship or brig in the harbour, or at some one of the islands;
besides others that touch to make repairs, and obtain refreshments, in their voyages between the North-west,
NMexican, and South American coasts, and China. The
agents and clerks of these establishments, and the supercargoes and officers of the vessels attached to them, with
transient visiters in ships, holding similar situations, form
the most respectable class of foreigners with whom we are
called to have intercourse.
There is another class, consisting of fifteen or twenty individuals, who have dropped all connexion with their native
countries, and become permanent residents on different
islands; and who hold plantations and other property undi the king and various chiefs. Of these, Maxini, a Spa



FOREIGN RESIDENTS.


aiard, interpreter for the government; Rives, a Frenchman, private secretary to RihoRiho; Law, a Scotchman,
the king's physician, all of Oahu; Young, an Englishman;
and Parker, an American, of Hawaii; and Butler, an
American, of Maui, are the principal and most known.
Marini and Young have been at the islands more than
thirty years; and were companions and counsellors of Tamehameha. The former has accumulated much proprty,
holds many plantations, and owns extensive flocks of goats,
and herds of cattle; and is said to have money in fund,
both in the United States and in England.
He has introduced the grape, o ge, lemon, pine-apple,
fig, and tamarind trees, but to  limited extent; and
seemingly from a motive enti  sfish: for he has perseveringly denied the seeds, and every means of propagation, to others, and been known even secretly to destroy a
growth that had been secured from them without his knowledge. A considerable quantity of wine is yearly made
from his vineyard; and his lemons and pines, by sales to
ships and in the town, bring quite an income. He has a
numerous breed of mules; and several horses, some twenty or thirty of which have within a few years been brought
from the coast of California, and are now rapidly increasing. Flocks of beautiful doves, also an importation, are
domiciliated at his establishment; and some few miles
from the town, along the coast, there is an islet, covered
with the burrows of English hares, belonging to him.
Besides this class of foreigners, there are between one
and two hundred runaway sailors and vagabonds, scattered
through the group, wanderers on the earth, the very dregs
and outcasts of society. These, and, I am sorry to say,
too many others, who, from their birth and education in a
Christian land, ought to be examples of rectitude and morality, are the greatest corrupters of this wretched people;
and present the most formidable of obstacles to the moral
influence of our teaching. Fancying themselves, in this
remote part of the world, free from every restraint of God
and man, instead of attempting to turn the heathen from
their darkness, they encourage them in sin; even become
pioneers in iniquity; and the instruments of doubly sealing them, as we fear, in the gloom of spiritual and eternal
death.




~11'6         FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
ing melons, bananas, several kids, and a regular daily
supply of milk from his goats.
His plantation is two miles from the Mission House on
the plain, towards Waititi. The road to it, although the
plain is uncultivated and entirely unshaded, affords the
most pleasant walk in the immediate vicinity of Honoruru.
The mountains are too distant to be reached in an hour's
ramble; and the shore is lined only with fish-ponds and
marshes. Every thing short of the mountains is sunburnt
and dreary. There is not a tree near us, much less groves,
in whose shade we might find shelter from the heat of a
torrid sun: no babbling brooks, no verdant lawn, no secluded dell or glade, f e     enjoyment of solitude and
thought; indeed, nothing that ever formed part of a scene
of rural delight.
The number of foreigners residing at the islands is far
greater than I supposed.  Four American mercantile
houses-two of Boston, one of New York, and one of
Bristol, Rhode Island-have establishments at this port,
to which agents and clerks are attached. Their storehouses are abundantly furnished with goods in demand by
the islanders; and, at them, most articles contained in
common retail shops and groceries, in America, may be
purchased. The whole trade of the four, probably amounts
to one hundred thousand dollars a year: sandal wood
principally, and specie, being the returns for imported manufactures. Each of these trading houses usually has a
ship or brig in the harbour, or at some one of the islands;
besides others that touch to make repairs, and obtain refreshments, in their voyages between the North-west,
MIexican, and South American coasts, and China. The
agents and clerks of these establishments, and the supercargoes-and officers of the vessels attached to them, with
itrnsient visiters in ships, holding similar situations, form
the most respectable class of foreigners with whom we are
called to have intercourse.
There is another class, consisting of fifteen or twenty individuals, who have dropped all connexion with their native
Countries, and become permanent residents on different
islands; and who hold plantations and other property unat the king and various chiefs. Of these, 1Marini, a Spa



FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
niard, interpreter for the government; Rives, a Frenchman, private secretary to RihoRiho; Law, a Scotchman,
the king's physician, all of Oahu; Young, an Englishman;
and Parker, an American, of Hawaii; and Butler, an
American, of Maui, are the principal and most known.
Marini and Young have been at the islands more than
thirty years; and were companions and counsellors of Tamehameha. The former has accumulated much prop/rty,
holds many plantations, and owns extensive flocks of goats,
and herds of cattle; and is said to have money in fund,
both in the United States and in England.
He has introduced the grape, oAnge, lemon, pine-apple,
fig, and tamarind trees, but t  limited extent; and
seemingly from a motive entire  fish h: for he has perseveringly denied the seeds, and every means of propagation, to others, and been known even secretly to destroy a
growth that had been secured from them without his knowledge. A considerable quantity of wine is yearly made
from his vineyard; and his lemons and pines, by sales to
ships and in the town, bring quite an income. lie has a
numerous breed of mules; and several horses, some twenty or thirty of which have within a few years been brought
from the coast of California, and are now rapidly increasing. Flocks of beautiful doves, also an importation, are
domiciliated at his establishment; and some few miles
from the town, along the coast, there is an islet, covered
with the burrows of English hares, belonging to him.
Besides this class of foreigners, there are between one
and two hundred runaway sailors and vagabonds, scattered
through the group, wanderers on the earth, the very dregs
and outcasts of society. These, and, I am sorry to say,
too many others, who, from their birth and education in a
Christian land, ought to be examples of rectitude and morality, are the greatest corrupters of this wretched people;
and present the most formidable of obstacles to the moral
influence of our teaching. Fancying themselves, in this
remote part of the world, free from every restraint of God
and man, instead of attempting to turn the heathen from
their darkness, they encourage them in sin; even become
pioneers in iniquity; and the instruments of doubly sealing them, as we fear, in the gloom of spiritual and eternal
death.




JEALOUSY OF THES GOVERNMENTWhen the first Missionaries reached the Sandwich
Islands, in the spring of 1820, an effort was made by
some of the foreigners, to have their landing and establishment at the islands forbidden by the government.
With this view, their motives were misrepresented by them,
to the king and chiefs. It was asserted, that while the ostensible object of the mission was good, the secret and ultimate design was the subjugation of the islands, and the
enslavement of the people: and by way of corroboration,
the treatment of the Mexicans, and aborigines of South
America and the West Indies, by the Spaniards, and the
possession of Hindost by the British, were gravely related. It was in co      e of this misrepresentation,
that a delay of eight f cCurred before the Missionaries
could secure permission to disembark.
In answer to these allegations, the more intelligent of
the chiefs remarked, " The JMlissionaries speak well: they
say they have come from AJmerica, only to do us good: if
they intend to seize our islands why are they so few in
number? where are their guns? and why have they brought
their wives?"  To this it was replied, " It is true, their
number is small: a few only have come now, the more
fully to deceive. But soon many more will arrive, and
your islands will be lost!"  The chiefs again answered,
' They say that they will do us good; they are few in
number; we will try them for one year, and if we find they
deceive us, it will then be time enough to send them away."
And permission to land was accordingly granted. Mr.
Young, I am told was the only foreigner who advocated
their reception.
The jealousy of the government was, notwithstanding,
greatly awakened; and all the movements of our friends
were closely watched: the king was even led to believe
that the digging of the cellar, and the laying of the foundation of the Mission House, was the commencement of a
fortification, of which the spaces left for windows were the
embrasures.
By the close of the first year the Missionaries had so
far proved to the government the purity of their motive,
and the integrity of their character, that the question of
their longer continuance was not agitated. Some of the




TOWARD THE MISSIONARIES.            R
ebiefs had already become interested in the instructions
commenced in Englih, and in the services of Christian
worship, regularly observed on the Sabbath, and occasionally at other times. The partial acquisition of the
language of the country-the formation of an alphabet for
the native tongue-the elementary lessons in reading and
writing which immediately followed-and chiefly perhaps
the PREACHING OF THE GOSPEL-had by the end of the
second year confirmed to the Missionaries the confidence
of the rulers, and began to secure to them decided marks
of friendship.
A first effort at opposition havi  proved thus unsuccessful, another soon made its ai ficee. The object in
this case, was the defeat of th  l influence of Christianity: and the extremity to which some of the foreigners
pushed their point, and of the means resorted to for its
accomplishment, you may judge from the fact, that the pupils of the first female school collected at this place, by
Mrs. Bingham-after being clothed, and brought with
much care and attention to habits of neatness and propriety
in their persons, and made themselves to be deeply interested in various useful instruction-were borne off
openly and forcibly by them, to become their mistresses,
while the instructress herself could answer the appeals
made to her for protection, only by her tears!
Still the moral influence of Christianity has been felt;
and I am pursuaded its glorious progress cannot now be
stayed. A chief object at present with those opposed to
the Mission, is the blasting of its character abroad. A
vessel scarcely comes to anchor, before the ears of those
attached to it are filled with slander and falsehood, in
reference to the influence exerted by us. Even Captain
Clasby had scarce reached the shore, before he heard the
lowest abuse heaped on our associates; and was told by
a leading resident, that his passengers should not be perInitted to land; that the nation was already nearly ruined
by the worthless set offellows we had come to join!
When a strange ship arrives, and the officers complain
of the extravagance of the harbour-fees, this impost is immediately declared to be exacted by the advice of the
Missionaries: the high prices of articles of refreshment in




I2m          PREJUDICE OVERCOME.
the market, is assigned to the sameg cause: though we
ourselves are now living almost exctsively on sea biscuit
salt beef, cad pork, brought from America, two or three
years old, and scarce ever taste a banana or melon, because we do not feel at liberty to purchase fresh provisions
and vgetables-much less fruit-at the price demanded
by the chiefs. Equally untrue is a whole catalogue of
charges, by which we are represented as the worst enemies
of our countrymen, and of all foreigners; and the basest
of men, both in principles and morals.
The minds of many visiters at the islands are by these
means so strongly      ed against us, that they do not
call at the Mission     and in some instances, after a
casual introduction,, on meeting us in the street
passed in haughty-silence, and even betrayed a sneer of
contempt. And when they take their departure, they bear
with them to the coasts of Mexico and Peru and Chili, or
to Canton, England and America, the most erroneous impressions of our influence here, and not unfrequently the
lowest slanders of our character.
When I speak thus of the opposition with which we
are obliged to contend, you are not to understand that all
foreigners-residents or visiters-are of the character represented. Some of every class are warmly and decidedly our friends, and have our high respect for the
rectitude of their character, and our sincere gratitude for
many favours: and, inconsistent as it may appear, even
those most embittered in their feelings against our object,
treat us personally with respect, and often with great kindness. Scarce a week passes, in which donations of a
liberal and important character, are not conferred on one
or another of the family; and we are often made to feel the
obligation of civilities, which we have not the means of refurning.
The scale of prejudice which was made to bear so
heavily against the Missionaries on their arrival, has now
not only gained its balance, but is beginning to settle with
ominous bearing against those who attempted by it to pre- vent the establishment of the Mission. The haughty and
powerful queen Kaahumanu was at first exceedingly
jealous of the teachers; and it is only within the last fews




KAPIOLANI-HER CHARACTER,


months, that she has paid a regard to instruction of any
kind. She long persisted in her refusals to attempt to
learn to read and write, and was but recently induced for
the first time to lay aside her cards for a few minutes, and
to repeat the alphabet after a Missionary: since then, she
has, however, become an assiduous scholar; and has
made her books and slate the principal. sources of
amusement. 
Within a day or two, I called upon her in compauy with
Mr. Ellis. Soon after entering, she asked Mr. Ellis for a
blank book he had promised to give her: he was obliged
to tell her he had not yet made it; and added, " I fear
you will think I am deceiving you, y delaying so'long to
fulfil my promise"-when she hastily interrupted him, say.
ing- -".Aorre! —are! ua pau komakou manao ino i ka
poe.Mikanere-ka wahahe wale no kahaori!"-'" No 
no!-ended are our evil thoughts of the company of
Missionaries-false or deceitful only are the foreigners!"
-meaning by foreigners, those who had originally misrepresented and traduced the character of the Missionaries. She expressed her full determination to serve
Jehovah and to keep his law, and in the course of the conversation, requested Mr. Ellis to write her a form ol
prayer for grace at meals, adding, "I know that all
things are from Jehovah-and it is well to give thanks tc
him for every favour, but without some direction I shall
perhaps make crooked work of it."
The same morning we for a moment visited Kapiolani.
She is an exceedingly interesting character: and from
having been addicted to the grossest intemperance and
dissipation, has become perfectly correct in her habits:
and is invariably serious and dignified in her deportment
I first saw her at the Mission House on the morning or
our arrival; and was so forcibly impressed with the neatness of her dress, and the propriety of her whole appearance, as to be led to inquire who she was, and whethel
she could be a Sandwich Islander.  She is deeply inte.
rested in the success of the Mission; is herself an inde.
fatigable scholar; and shewed us a very handsome wri
ting-desk and table, for which she had just given seventy
five dollars.
11




12i        SCENES ON THE SABBATIH.
M;onday JMorning, 26. The Sabbath here is a most interesting day to the Christian and Missionary. The num.
ber of decently dressed heathen who flock to the humble
temple of the only true God; the attention and seriousness '
with which many of them listen to the words of eternal
life proclaimed in their own language, by the ambassadors
of Jesus Christ; the praises of Jehovah chanted in this
untutored tongue-necessarily produce a lively and joyful impression on the pious mind. Of this I saw a pleasing instance only two Sabbaths since.  An officer from
one of the ships in port-a serious young man, spent the
interval between the English and native services with me
at the Mission House. As the congregation began to assemble, he accompanied me to the door of the chapel, intending to take leave when the exercises should begin, as
he was unacquainted with the language, and had been already longer from his ship than he designed; but after
standing a few minutes, and seeing hundreds of natives assembling quietly and seriously from various directions; he
suddenly exclaimed, while tears glistened in his eye, "A o!
-this is too much —I cannot go till I worship with these
heathen."
It is also an interesting day to the passing stranger;for on the Sabbath, the real state of the people, struggling
from barbarity to civilization, is more observable than at
any other time. Any one of the fabled beings, represented as half man and half beast, would be an. appropriate
emblem of the present national character; and an emblazoned Centaur would, in the view of a herald, furnish
his Hawaiian majesty with a very intelligible coat of arms.
Recollecting of how late a date the first improvements
here are, there is certainly much to admire; but more in
one sense, at which to laugh.  This fact is conspicuous
to the simple looker on, in nothing more than in dress-the
variety and, grotesque mixture of which is indescribable.
The king, queens, prince, princess, and all the highest
chiefs, are, at church, always well, and often richly and
fashionably, dressed.  But when grouped-which is always the case-with the " Royal Guards," and the several retinues of the chiefs, they present a most incongruous and ridiculous spectacle. The dress of the guar ds




SINGULAR DRESSES.


which is intended to be a" umniform," appears to be the
cast-off regimentals of half a dozen different nations, and
I had almost said, of as many different centuries. Some
suits I think bear strong evidence, prima facie, of having
passed through the honourable hardships of the Revolutionary War; and I have been half tempted to recognize
in others, the parade clothes of the " Bowerstown Jirtil.
lery," the objects of general admiration, when, as a boy, I
first visited the wilds of Otsego.  You may judge how
these, or the like, would appear-a coat and cocked hat,
for instance, on a native " sans culotte;" or a hat and pantaloons without a coat or shirt, or a hat and shirt alone; all
of which varieties may be seen. Some of the officers, how.
ever, appear very well, in full new suits of blue, with lace
and epaulettes of gold.
There is sometimes, also, an odd mixture of materials
in the dress of the chiefs; for example, a rich suit of Canton crape, satin, or silk velvet, with a sailor's check or
red flannel shirt, and parti-coloured woollen cap, and perhaps
one coarse stocking and shoe. I have seen a female, of high
rank, and monstrously large, going to church in a loose
slip of white muslin, with thick woodman's shoes, and no
stockings, a heavy silver-headed cane in her hand, and an
immense French chapeau on her head!
On Sunday, too, there is a display of equipage, not seen
every day. The chapel being near a half mile from the
village, some of the grandees ride to church:-their carriages, to be sure, belong to " the birth-day of invention" —
especially the state coach of the late king, which, I presume,
was once a tinker's waggon. Kaahumanu and Taumnua
rii always come in this; the young queens, usually in one
more modern and airy, of the kind called Dearborn in
America. These vehicles are always drawn by twelve or
fifteen natives; their horses not having yet been broken to
the harness.
Whether the nobility, here, have been told that those,
who wish to be considered most genteel, in America, do not
go to church till after the services have commenced; or
whether, the newly introduced duties of the toilette occasion the delay, I cannot determine; but the most stately
do not generally arrive at the chapel till some time during




PRAYERS AT THE PALACE.


the first prayer, which consequently is disturbed by the
rumbling of their chariot wheels, the hooting of the rabble
that hurry them along the plain, the bustle of alighting, and
the parade of entering. You could not avoid smiling,
were you to see, with what dignity some of these saunter
up the aisle.
I have been led to these little notices, protracted much
beyond my intention when I commenced this date, by the
observations unavoidably, and almost unconsciously, made
yesterday.  I witnessed them all, in the detail in which
they are given; and, afterwards, in grand assemblage, by
a single coup d'aeil, when the meeting was dismissed: with
the addition, however, of the lofty umbrellas, and proud
kahiles, on the favourable side; and of a party of naked
horsemen on the other, who were flying in the distance,
mounted without saddle or bridle, except a string of twisted grass, with looks more wild than their long hair, and
ragged tapas, that were streaming in the wind.
One or two of the Missionaries attend family prayers, at
the king's residence, every evening.  Last night, at nine?elock, I accompanied Mr. Ellis and Mr. Chamberlain to
this service.  RihoRiho was just commencing supper, in
a large ranai, or bower, by the side of his house. The table was well set with blue china and cut glass, for about
twenty persons; and besides the lamps and spermaceti
candles which were burning on it, was surrounded by a
glare of torches of the tutui or oil nut, which, tastefully
wrapped in green leaves, made a splendid appearance.
The king was seated at the head, with one of his queens
on his left, and a favourite chief on his right side. There
were about half a dozen others at the table. He, immediately ordered room for us to be made on the left of the
queen, and begged us to help ourselves to whatever we
chose of the variety of soups, meats, and vegetables before
us, and to excuse his doing the honours of the table, being
"poro i roa," " very hungry," and having just filled his plate
with rich turtle soup.
Some of the chiefs do not cook their food on the Sabbath; the king is aware of this, and himself sometimes
follows their example; but last night every thing was
smoking fresh from the cookhouse; and, by way of apolo



DESIGNATION TO LAHA1NA.


125


gy, he remarked, that the hot supper was not prepared for
himself, but, on account of the "nai" the sick person, (Kamehameru being indisposed,) but that every thing on the
table was killed the day before.
Our own practice is to have our dinner, for the Sabbath,
except the vegetables, cooked on Saturday.. The preparation of food in the native manner, especially the making
of poe and baking of meats, requires the attention of several hours; and the Missionaries, in their instructions, have
suggested to the chiefs and people, the propriety of preparing their food for the la tabu, on the preceding day.
The remark of the king was made, from a knowledge of
our opinion on the subject.
After taking a cup of tea, and waiting till his majesty
had completed half a dozen courses, we retired from the
table, at ten o'clock, to the palace; where the principal
part of the chiefs were waiting for the ordinary worship.
JNine o'clock, P. M. This has proved a much more important date than I anticipated when I wrote in the morning. The Mission was informed yesterday, that the king's
mother is going to Lahaina, on the island of Maui, to re.
side permanently there; and is extremely desirous that
some of the Missionaries should accompany her.  Mr.
Bingham saw her last night on the subject. She said
she must have a teacher, to speak the good word, and
pray to God with her; that she would do every thing in
her power to make those who might accompany her comfortable; and would delay her voyage, that there might be
time for them to prepare to sail with her in the Cleopatra's
barge.
A meeting of the Mission was, consequently, called this
morning, when it was determined, that it was expedient to
occupy a station at Lahaina immediately.  After agreeing that the choice of persons should be made by electing one by ballot, and allowing him to nominate his colleague, the votes were taken: I was elected, and imme.
diately, named Mr. Richards for my associate: we, consequently, are all in confusion, packing up our baggage
for a permanent residence on Maui, instead of a visit to
Hawaii, and a tour of the island. We are to embark on
Wednesday.




126


CHAPTER VIII.
DEPARTURE FOR MAUI.
On board the Cleopatra's barge, at sea, May 30th, 1823.
On Wednesday, the 28th, Mr. and Mrs. Richards, H — 
and myself, B — and C —, with William Kamahoula,
and Mr. Loomis-who makes the voyage to see us established at our station-embarked with the queen Keopuolani for Maui.
Our designation was so unexpected, and departure so
sudden, that we had scarce leisure to turn a thought on
the separation about to take place from our fellow labourers, or to cast a glance of anticipation at the possible trials that might awvait us in a distant and solitary district.
The topsails of the barge had long been unfurled before
we had completed our preparations, and the last package
was scarcely secured, before the farewell hymn and benedictions of our friends were sounding in our ears, and we
were hurried to the open bosom of the Pacific.
Left to the deliberate contemplation of our situation,
we almost trembled at the responsibility resting upon us,
and at the arduous duties in prospect.  Every thought
was exquisitely awake to the life on which we had now actually entered. Months indeed had passed since we bade
adieu to our country, home, and friends; but, during a voyage of 18,000 miles, we had still been surrounded by those
we loved; and for the last few weeks, though on heathen
shores, we had been calmly reposing in the bosom of a
band of intelligent affectionate Christians, without a participation of their labours and their cares. Such, however,
was no longer the case; our eyes rested only on the uncivilized beings with whom we were to dwell, and our
ears were saluted only by the sounds of an unknown and
savage tongue. We were fully alive to the contrast; and,
in the anticipation of those trials, by which we believe the
work in which we are engaged must be accomplished, we
could scarce refrain exclaiming, "Farewell ease-farewell
comfort-farewell every worldly joy."
Btt with these feelings there was no mingling of de



,INDNESS TO TUE MISSIONARIES.         127
spondency. No, in the kind providence of God, every
cirtumstance attending our situation was too auspicious
towadmit the indulgence of any unbelieving fear of the ul.
tieiate success of our enterprise.
We had been on board scarce an hour, before the polite
and kind attention of those under whose immediate and
express patronage we had embarked, made us almost forget that we were not still in the bosom of beloved friends.
Our hearts became more than ordinarily elated, in the belief that, < "unto  is this grace given, that we should preach
among the gentiles the unsearchable riches of Christ;"
and, while a splendid moon gave a softened beauty to the
receding promontories of Oahu, and brought to light the
distant shores of Morokai and Ranai, overtopped by the
loftier heights of Maui, we found ourselves almost involuntarily chanting the favourite anthem —
" Wake, Isles of the South, your redemption draws near,
No longer repose in the borders of gloom," &e.
Previous to our embarkation, we had but little opportunity to judge, from personal intercourse, of the degree of
civilization to which the chiefs have attained in minor
points, and were somewhat surprised at the ceremonious
attentions paid us. Immediately on going on board, we
were informed that the after-cabin was appropriated exclusively to our use; though there were not less than two
hundred persons on board, many of them high chiefs, with
their particular friends; and we had hardly cleared the harbour, when the steward waited on us, to know what we
would order for dinner, and at what hour it should be
served.
Mr. Allen had sent us a fine ready-dressed kid, with
some melons, for our passage; and Mrs. Bingham had
kindly prepared coffee and other refreshments; but our
table has been so regularly and comfortably spread, that
our basket of cold provisions remains untouched. This
attention is the more noticeable, because the trouble is entirely on our account, all the natives eating their favourite
dishes o: their mats on deck. Karaimoku, from courtesy,
very politely took his seat with us the first time we sat
down to meal, but excused himself from partaking of the
dinner, by saying that he had eaten above.




128


ARRIVAL AT LAHAINA.


There was something also in the attentions of the king
to his mother, when leaving Honoruru, that had a pleasing
effect on our minds. This venerable old lady was the last
person that came on board. After we had reached the
quarter-deck of the barge, she appeared on the beach, surrounded by an immense crowd, and supported by RihoRiho in a tender and respectful manner. He would let
no one assist her into the long boat but himself; and
seemed to think of nothing but her ease and safety, till she
was seated on her couch, beneath an awning over the main
hatch. The king continued to manifest the utmost affection and respect for her till we got under way; and, apparently from the same filial feelings, accompanied us fifteen
miles out to sea, and left the brig in a pilot-boat, in time
barely to reach the harbour before dark.
We are now becalmed under the lee of Ranai, within
less than a mile of an inaccessible precipice several hundred feet high, the base of which is lashed with heavy
breakers. We had the hope of reaching Lahaina to-night,
but now fear that we shall not before some time to-morrow.
Lahaina, Island of Maui, Saturday evening, May 31.
After a very rough but splendid night, at sunrise this morning the wild mountains that overhang the district of Lahaina were in distinct view, and we advanced rapidly to
the anchorage. The settlement is far more beautiful than
any place we have yet seen on the islands. The entire
district, stretching nearly three miles along the sea-side, is
covered with luxuriant groves, not only of the cocoa-nut,
(the only tree we have before seen, except on the tops ot
the mountains,) but also of the bread-fruit and of the kor,
a species of cordia, (cordia sebestena,) an ornamental tree,
resembling, at a distance, a large and flourishing, full,
round-topped apple-tree; while the banana plant, tapa, and
sugar-cane, are abundant, and extend almost to the beach,
on which a fine surf constantly rolls. The picture presented is purely Indian in all its features, from the bare and
lofty truiks of the cocoa-palm, with their tufted summits,
nodding like plumes in the breeze, to the thatch df a rude
hut, here and there peeping from beneath the broad leaves
Of the plantain, and the richness of more lowly growth:




PLANTATION OF MR. BUTLER.


129


the whole forming a delightful foreground to the noble exhibition of mountain scenery in the distance.
On coming to an anchor, Karaimoku expressed his regret that there was no house at the disposal of himself or
the queen, suitable for our accommodation: and wished
us to procure a temporary residence with Mr. Butler, an
American established here, till houses could be provided
for us by Keopulani. Under the guidance of Mr. Loomis,
Mr. Richards and myself accordingly landed for this purpose, We were soon met by Keoua, the governor of Lahaina, to whom I delivered a letter of itroduction from his
friend Laanui, at Oahu, and proceeded in search of the
plantation of Mr. Butler.
We found his enclosure pleasantly situated about a
quarter of a mile directly in rear of the landing-place, and
were received by him in a kind and friendly manner.
When acquainted with our object in coming to Lahaina,
he proffered every assistance in his power, and tendered
his best house for the reception of our families. His
civility greatly prepossessed us in his favour, and made us
almost forget that we were in the land of strangers. He
returned to the barge with us, to bring the ladies on shore 
and early in the afternoon our whole number were comfortably and quietly settled in the midst of his luxuriant
grounds.
The thick shade of the bread-fruit trees which surround
his cottages-the rustling of the breeze through the bananas and the sugar-cane-the murmurs of the mountain
streams encircling the yard-and the coolness and verdure
of every spot around us-seemed, in contrast with our
situation, during a six months' voyage, and four weeks'
residence on the dreary plain of Honoruru, like the delights of an Eden; and caused our hearts to beat warmly
with gratitude to the Almighty Being, who had brought us
in safety to the scene of our future labours, and had at
once provided us with so refreshing an asylum.
Before dark, the chiefs had all our effects landed, and
secured in the storehouse of the governor, while our private baggage was brought to the house we occupy by the
attendants of the queen. Nor did their attentions cease
here. Early in the evening, a supply of ready-cooked




130   FIRST SABBATtH AT LAHAINA.


provisions, with vegetables and fruits, abundantly sufficient for the Sabbath, were sent to us by different individuals. Mr. Butler hospitably prepared our first repast;
and, though somewhat fatigued, we are now ready to retire to rest, prepared for the suitable observance of the
holy day on which we are bordering. May it be the beginning of many blessed Sabbaths to the degraded inhabitants of Lahaina!
Sabbath, June 1. Early this morning a messenger came
to inform us that Keopuolani, the princess, and chiefs,
were waiting for us to come and worship with them. We
accordingly hastened to the beach, to erect an altar to the
true God, where heretofore idols only have been served.
Our temple was the work of the hands of the Almighty.
Its only pillars were those that support the foundations of
the earth, and its canopy the broad arch of heaven. But
we doubt whether a purer flame of devotion would have
glowed in our bosoms, had we knelt before the Lord on
pavements of marble, or addressed his throne from the
midst of carving and gold. About three hundred and
fifty persons had encircled the tent, pitched for the temporary accommodation of the queen, in a grove of kou trees,
near a brick building, now used as a storehouse, but once
the residence of the late king when he visited Maui. We
have seldom witnessed a more orderly and attentive audience.
A portion of scripture was read from the Tahitian version, by Taua, a Tahitian Christian, assistant Missionary
to Mr. Ellis, who is attached to the retinue of the queen,
in the capacity of private instructor and chaplain; after
which other appropriate services were performed. The
chiefs desired to have the services repeated in the afternoon; and the queen requested us not only to worship
God with her thus, on the Sabbath, but to attend prayers
regularly, with herself and daughter, every morning at
sunrise and every evening at sunset.
Monday, June 2. Our schools have to-day been commenced, one at the establishment of each of the chiefs in
company with the queen, and one also at the house of
Keoua the governor, making six in number: that of Keopuolani, and Hoapiri her husband; that of the princess




COMMENCE INSTRUCTION.             151
Nahienaena; of the young queen Kekauonohi, a wife of
RihoRiho; of Wahinepio, the sister of Karaimoku, and
Kehikiri her husband; of Kaiko and his wife Haaheo; and
of the governor.
Our pupils consist of the chiefs and a few of their particular favourites. The rulers have, from the first arrival
of the Missionaries, opposed the instruction of the common people in reading and wrig, saying, "If thepalapala (letters) is good, we wish to possess it first ourselves; if it is bad, we do not intend our subjects to
know the evil of it,"-and thus far a kind of tabu has existed against any but religious teaching among the commoners. And the whole number of islanders who have
learned, and are learning, to read and write, does not
amount to more than two or three hundred; about fifty of
whom are now under our direction.
It may not be readily understood how we can teach in a
tongue of which we are almost entirely ignorant. The
rudiments of the language are so simple, that after once
learning the sounds of the letters and diphthongs, there is
no difficulty in pronouncing any word correctly, or in mechanically reading any sentence.  So that we are fully
competent to instruct in reading and spelling the few sheets
in print, and in writing.
Several are learning the English language; but the
combination of its sounds are so foreign to the genius of
their own, and some of its letters so utterly beyond their
powers of enunciation, that, as Kaahumanu says, they do
indeed make " crooked work of it;" often exclaiming, in
their attempts to acquire it, " tua rike no i ka pohaku" —
" it is just like a stone!"
Keopulani is indefatigable in her efforts to learn to read
in her own tongue. It is but a few months that she has
been interested in the object of the Mission; and being
aged, she has great apprehensions that she may not live
till, as she herself expresses it, she " has learned enough
of the good word (of God) and of the right way to go to
heaven.'  Her influence is so great, that in this respect,
and in every other, her example is very important. Her
character has for some time been free from all the reproaches of heathenism; and she appears sincerely desi



132       KINDNESS OF KEOPUOLANI1
rous of fully imbibing the spirit, as well as of observing the
forms, of Christianity.  Karaimoku and Keoua dined
with us to-day. While at the table, the prime minister informed us that Keopuolani had given us a plantation adjoining that of Mr. Butler; and directing the governor to
put us in possession of it, by shewing the boundaries in the
presence of its tenants, according to the custom of the
country: he took his leave with a pleasant aroha, and the
salutation " wach happiness to you all on the Island of
Maui."
We have since ascertained, that the plantation is his
own; and that it is to his liberality, probably-with the
knowledge of the queen, we are indebted for the kindness.
By the word plantation, as used here, you are not, my
dear M —, to understand what its acceptation in
America would convey, an estate of 500 or 5000 acres,
but an extent of land, in general, much more contracted
than the pleasure-grounds around your own residence:
consisting of a collection of taro beds, interspersed here
and there with a few rows of potatoes, a little sugar-cane
and some irregularly planted banana, and cocoa-nut or
bread fruit trees.
Such are the limits and appearance of the ground given
to us: the soil is, however, exceedingly rich, and may be
formed into a beautiful garden.
Tuesday, 3. After evening prayers at the queen's, we
took leave of Karaimoku and his party, who shortly after
went on board the barge, to return to Honoruru. Mr.
Loomis also left us. The only object of Karaimoku in
visiting Lahaina, was to escort Keopuolani, who being the
highest chief by, blood in the nation, receives every mark
of honour and affection from the government and people.
At this interview, he appeared more kindly disposed than
ever, repeatedly taking us by both hands, as a token of
peculiar tenderness, and pressing them to his bosom. He
told us, that the queen would continue to provide for us as
she had done. Our table has been bountifully furnished
every day from her stores. This morning she said to
William, "Have they hog still 1?"  Yes." "Any dog 1"
JVNo eat dog."  Any potatoes Vi "No." " Any melon I"
"No." On which an order was immediately given, ani




DESCRIPTION OF LAHAINA.            13
two men despatched to us heavily laden with potatoes and
melons. Pigs, hogs, fowl, and goats, have been sent
constantly by one person or another. No congregation in
America could in this respect have received a clergyman,
coming to administer the word of life to them, with greater
hospitality, or stronger expressions of good will.
Thursday, 5. Found leisure this morning to take a
cursory survey of the settlement in which I am now a
spiritual instructor. The first view of it from the sea and
anchorage, gives too favourable an impression of its
beauty; and the appearance of great luxuriance which it
exhibits, does not expose the rude and imperfect cultivation of the natives.
Lahaina is situated on the north-west end of Maui, and
lies between two points projecting slightly into the ocean;
one on the north, and the other on the south end, about two
miles distant from each other. These, in their respective
directions, terminate the view of the beach.
The width of the district from the sea towards the mountain, is from one half to three-quarters of a mile. The
whole extent included within these boundaries is perfectly
Ivel, and thickly covered with trees and various vegetation.  The taste, skill, and industry of an American
gardener might convert it into an earthly paradise; but
now it every where appears only like the neglected grounds
of a deserted plantation. There is no uniformity or neatness to be seen, and almost every thing seems to be growing in the wildness of nature. The bread-fruit trees stand
as thickly as those of an irregularly planted orchard, and
beneath them are taro patches and fish-ponds, twenty or
thirty yards square, filled with stagnant water, and interspersed with clumps of the tapa tree, groves of the banana,
rows of the sugar-cane, and bunches of the potatoe and
melon. All these flourish exuberantly from the richness
of the soil alone, with but little attention or labour from
the hand of man.
It scarce ever rains, not oftener than half a dozen times
during the year; and the land is watered entirely by conducting the streams which rush from the mountains, by
artificial courses, on every plantation. Each farmer has a
right, established by custom, to the water every fifth day.
12




DESCRIPTION OF LAHAINA.


The pathways, which are very narrow, are usually along
the sides of these water trenches.
The number of inhabitants is about two thousand five
hundred. Their houses are generally not more than eight
or ten feet long, six or eight broad, and from four to six
high: having one small hole for a door, which cannot be
entered but by creeping, and is the only opening for the
admission of light and air. They make little use of these
dwellings, except to protect their food and clothing, and
to sleep in during wet and cool weather; and most generally eat, sleep, and live in the open air, under the shade of
a kou, or bread-fruit tree.
The land begins to rise rather abruptly about three
fourths of a mile from the sea, and towers into lofty mountains, three rude elevations of which, immediately east of
Lahaina, are judged to be four thousand five hundred, or
five thousand feet, above the level of the ocean. From
the first swell of the rising ground, almost to the summits
of these mountains, there is nothing to be seen but the
most dreary sterility and sunburnt vegetation, intersected
by gloomy ravines and frightfil precipices.
Every part of the island seen from Lahaina wears the
same forbidding and desolate aspect, and after passing
either point, the eye is met only by a barren sand-beach,
occasionally interrupted by heaps of black lava, to which
the wild dashings of a heavy surf add double gloom.
So far as our observation extends, this description is
characteristic of the whole Islands. Instead of being the
sunny and elysian fields which the imagination of many
make them, they in fact are only vast heaps of rocks in
the midst of this mighty ocean, with here and there, at
long intervals, a rich and luxuriant valley and plain thronged
with inhabitants. The outlines of the whole group are
wild and romantic, and the thick and ever-verdant forests,
which crown the heights of many of the mountains, give
them a refreshing appearance. But to an eye accustomed
to the varied beauties of an American landscape, to its
widely cultivated fields, its stately groves, its spreading
lawns, and broadly gleaming rivers, its gardens and enclosures, its farm-houses, country seats, villages, domes, and
spires, a more melancholy place of exile could scarce be
selected than the Sandwich Islands.




RUINS OP A HEII-AU.


135'


The islands of Ranai, Morokai, and Tahurawe, are in
full view from Lahaina; the two former to the west and
north, and the last to the south; and at the distance of
fifteen or twenty miles, are as dreary as the gloomiest
imagination could paint them. Not a sign of life, in the
animal or vegetable creation, can be discovered on or
about them; and being constantly enveloped in lowering
clouds, they are as emphatically the dark mountains of the
natural, as they are figuratively those of the intellectual
and spiritual world. We here look in vain for those beauties in nature, with which we once feasted our admiration
to enthusiasm; for
" Objects find we none,
Except before us stretch'd the toiling main,
And rocks and wilds in savage view behind."
The south point of Lahaina, however, presents one
subject of glorious meditation-the ruins of an Hei-au or
idolatrous temple. While wandering over this now confused heap of stones, I involuntarily shuddered at the
thought that they had often been bathed in human blood,
a melancholy fact:-but, 0 how joyfil, how inexpressibly
animating, the association inseparably connected with it.
"The altar and idol, in dust overthrown,The incense forbade, that was hallowed in blood;
The priest of Melchisedec here shall atone,
And the shrines of Lahaina be sacred to God."
Yes! we confidently believe, that the stifled shrieks of a
devoted human victim will never again break on the midnight silence of these groves; and that the only sacrifice
that will ever here be offered, will be that of " a broken and
a contrite heart," which thou, 0 God, wilt not despise.
Saturday night, June 7. The first week of our residence at Lahaina is completed; and few Missionaries
have ever been more highly favoured in forming a station,
far from every abode of civilization and piety, than we
have. The Lord hath dealt kindly with us, by disposing
the hearts of the queen and chiefs to the most friendly
and generous attentions.
Our table has been constantly and bountifully spread by
our benefactress, who, clothed with regal power, in this
respect literally fulfils the promise, " Behold, I will lift up




1936       DESIRE FOR INSTRUCTION.
mys hand to the gentiles, and set up my standard to the people, and kings shall be thy nursing fathers, and queens thy
ursing mothers."  Preparations are already made for the
speedy erection of our dwelling houses; and timber is
collecting for a chapel and school-house, all by the liberality of the same interesting personage.
And where is the civilized heart, that will refuse its warm
approbation, and zealous support, to the attempts that are
making, for the benefit of those who appear so anxious to
receive it. Who after once witnessing scenes which have
become familiarto us, will say, " the heathen cannot be
enlightened?"  Who will assert that instruction to these is
thrown away, when morning, noon, and night, they may
be found in groups of from ten to thirty persons, spelling,
and reading, and writing; and, whether in their houses or
in the grove, whether strolling on the beach, or, I might
almost add, sporting in the surf, making their books and
slates their inseparable companions?
If, after the shortest and most imperfect tuition, many
are capable of composing neat and intelligent letters to
each other, now, almost daily passing from island to island,
and from district to district; so far from judging them not
susceptible of attainments in the common branches of
education, we need not fear to encourage a belief, that
some may yet rejoice in the more abstruse researches of
philosophy and science. They can be civilized, they can
be made to partake, with millions of their fellow-beings,
in all the advantages of letters and of the arts.
Nor is there more doubt, that they may be converted to
Christianity. They eagerly seek our religious instructions
and prayers; and morning and evening, with seriousness
and solemnity, surround the altar of the great I AM. The
approach of the Sabbath is anxiously awaited: and so
careful are they not to infringe its duties or defeat its object, by unnecessary labours, that they prepare their food
before its commencement, with more punctilious care than
many in our own country, who are thought to observe it
with superstitious particularity. We do not say this of
the nation, for, alas! gross darkness covers the people,
and thousands are every where perishing in the depths of
ignorance and sin; but of those only, who have received




MESSENGER FROM THE QUEEN.


137


the most constant and direct influence of the Mission. If
it can be said, however, of a few only, (and in its full extent it can be,) who will not admit that all are alike capable
of receiving and obeying the precepts of the word of God? 
We thank God more warmly than ever, that of his good
pleasure he excited within our bosoms, the desire "to forsake houses, and brethren, and sisters, and father, and
lands, for his sake, and for that of the Gospel;" and that
we have the prospect of living and dying beneath the dark
mountains of Maui. If ignorance of the world and of
our own hearts do not deceive us, we had rather hear the
warm and constant " aroha,"-" aroha nui" —" aroha nui
roa" —" maitaii, aitni," " Love to you" —" great love to
you"-" very great love to you"-" good, good,"-of
the crowds of these ignorant and degraded immortals,
with the cheering prospect of conferring on them blessings
temporal and eternal, than to receive the loud huzzas of
an American or European populace, shouting the plaudits
of a hero or a monarch.
Wednesday, 18. A messenger from the queen came to
our cottage very early this morning, desiring Mr. Richards
and myself to go to the beach, to make a definite selection
of a situation for the Missionary establishment. On going
down, we found the timber on the ground, and a large
number of men, from a distant district, waiting for directions where to put it up. Keopuolani and the young
princess both accompanied us to the site we had before
partially chosen. It is a bank a few yards from the sea,
elevated about six feet above the level of the water, and
at present promises greater retirement than any spot in the
section of the district in which the queen wishes us to
reside. Its only advantage is a peculiarly fresh sea-breeze.
As soon as we expressed our preference for it, the men
began digging holes for the corner posts, making each
house twenty-three feet long, and fifteen feet wide, with a
space of fifteen feet between them. The posts are about
as thick as the arm of a man; and after being fastened in
the ground, are about five feet high. The whole number
on each side of each of our houses, is seven. The tops
are excavated, to admit a pole about an inch in diameter,
which extendu horizontally the whole length of the build12*




138     HiURA-HURA, OR NATIVE DANCE.
ing, and to which the posts are all lashed with strings made
from a small but strong vine.
The rafters are as numerous as the posts, and nearly as
large, and are fastened to their tops with strings. The
principal strength of this joint arises from an extension of
the outside of the post, two or three inches above the
larger and-inner part, which is received into a corresponding notch made in the end of the rafters.
The upper ends of the rafters rest on and are lashed to a
ridge pole, supported at each end by a long post reaching
from the ground to the peak of the roof. Between the
corners and these middle posts there are others parallel to
them, diminishing in length according to the inclination of
the roof. These complete the frame of the building. The
next business is to prepare a foundation for the thatch.
This is done by lashing small round sticks, at intervals of
five or six inches, to the posts of the sides and ends, from
the ground to the ridge pole; to these the thatch of grass
is tied by strings made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk.
In the best built houses, between the sticks and the grass
ther is an inner thatch, or lining, of the leaves of the
sugar-cane or banana.
Our kind patroness remained on the ground till we oursqlves left it for breakfast; and constantly addressed us,
aid spoke of us to the people, by the affectionate appellation of " sons."
The ship Dawn, of New York, touched here on the
Sabbath, and sailed again for Oahu; the same day the
Boston, Capt. Joy, of Nantucket, arrived and is still at
anchor off Lahaina. After dining with us to-day, Capt.
Joy took Mr. Richards and myself to his ship. When re.
turning, towards sunset, we observed an immense crowd
of people in the grove, near the establishment of Keopuolani; and hundreds of others -hastening from every
direction, to the same spot.  A hura-hura or rative
danc was performing in honour of the arrival of the queen
and princess.
Tht daners were twiainteresting girls, ten years ofage.
Their dresses were of beautiful yellow native cloth, arranged in thick folds and festoons from the waist to the
kanee; with wreaths of evergreen and wild flowers on




CUSTOM OF CONFERRING NAMES.         139
their heads and necks,-ornaments of ivory on their
wrists-and a kind of buskin round the ankles, formed
of dog's teeth, loosely fastened to network of hemp, so
as to rattle like the castanet in the motions of the dance.
The musicians were six men, seated on the ground with
large calabashes before them, which they beat with short
sticks. The sound of these, accompanied by that of their
voices repeating the song, constituted the rude music.
The girls occasionally joined in the song; and often
were the only singers, continuing the subject in duet, and
at times by a solo. The motions of the dance were slow
and graceful, and, in this instance, free from indelicacy of
action; and the song, or rather recitativo, accompanied by
much gesticulation, was dignified and harmonious in its
numbers. The theme of the whole, was the character and
praises of the queen and princess, who were compared to
every thing sublime in nature; and exalted as gods.
The chiefs, seated in front of the performers, were so
intent on the exhibition, that we scarce expected to gain
their attention. Keopuolani, however, ordered the performance to cease the moment the sun began to set; and,
commanding the crowd to be seated and keep silence
while she worshipped God, beckoned us to come to her
sofa; and we proceeded with the usual exercises. The
number of persons present was not less than two thousand.
To whom-and to many for the first time-the words of
eternal life were proclaimed-and that Name made
known, which is the only one, "under heaven, given
among men, whereby we must be saved."
June 19. Hoapiri, the husband of the queen, called at
our cottage this afternoon, to request the acceptance of
his name for our son C —: a mark of great friendship,
and, in this case, of honour and condescension, according X
to the ideas of the islanders. An exchange of names
between adults, is one of the strongest pledges of affection: and the conferring of his own name, by a high
chief, whether on an individual in infancy, as in the present
case, or in manhood, imparts a dignity here, not surpassed
by that of " the spur" or "garter" in more polished monarchies. The event was formally announced to the chiefs
and the people at evening prayers, and a servant despatckh




140        GENERAL REFLECTIONS.
ed with a very appropriate present for " the young
Hoapiri"-a large bucket full of arrowroot; an article
spontaneous in its growth, prepared to some extent by the
natives, and by them called pia.
June 20. In all external things here, there is a sameness, morning, noon, and evening-day and night-that,
accompanied, as it necessarily is, by an utter want of society, would prove insupportable, I should think, to every
civilized and intelligent resident, but a Missionary. True,
the weather is perpetual June; we have no rain,
no storms, no lowering clouds, and all immediately
around is perennial verdure; but there is a death-like silence and want of animation in every thing; a stillness of
desolation, that drowns the spirits, and destroys the
elasticity both of body and mind. There is nothing to be
seen or heard of those things which enliven the most retired situations in our own country; no chirping birds, no
gamboling flocks, no lowing cattle. Even the few natives,
who are at the same time at work on their small plantations, cause no interruption to the general silence; no
sound of industry is created by the rude implements with
which they cultivate the ground: and their labour is unaccompanied by any thing like " the ploughboy's whistle," or
" the reaper's song:"-in fine, little besides the shoutings
of a midnight revel, intimates life, much less contentment
and joy, among the dwellers of the land.
But our object, and our hopes, buoy us above the influence of this oppressive peculiarity, and impart a contentment and cheerfulness, which often rise to undissembled
joy. In contrast with this our chosen lot, fancy sometimes
sketches scenes which might have been our own-in
which
"An elegant sufficiency-books-friendship-ease"are still combined with
"Useful life,
Progressive virtue, and approving heaven."
But I would not exchange my situation and prospects,
with the temporal and eternal interests of this people, con,
nected with thenm-slight as they may be —for all the
earthly enjoyment the most fascinating of these could oe



ERECTION   FP A CHAPEL.          141
cure. Even while I cast a momentary glance at them,
my better judgment tells me, and, I doubt not tells me
true, that the enchantment by which they are surrounded,
exists only in " the visions of romantic youth;" and that
any supposed addition to the happiness now in my possession, which the world could make, is but imaginary and
deceitful. Little as I have ever experienced of the ills and
disappointments of life, I know that were I to realize such
scenes in their highest charms-of them I should be compelled at last to exclaim,
"Oh! what, in truth, is mortal pleasure-but
The torrent's smoothness, ere it dash below!"
JMonday, June 23. The first humble temple for the
worship of Him "who dwelleth between the cherubims,"
ever founded beneath these dark mountains, has to-day
been commenced. While we remarked the cheerfulness
and animation, with which the numerous natives engaged
in the work, performed their task-though it has cost
them already many days of hard labour in the mountains,
and will detain them still many more from their families
and plantations-while we heard one and another, on
every side, saying to us as we passed, " Ke hale a ke
Akua," " Ke pale pule," " naitai," " nuai raai. t " The
house of God," "The house of prayer;" "good, very
good;" our thoughts and our hopes hastened us through
the spiritual darkness of the present time, to that period of
light and gladness, "when the Lord's house shall be established on the tops of the mountains, and shall be exalted
above the hills, and all nations shall flow unto it."
Evening. A sail was descried this afternoon, in the
channel between Ranai and Morokai: soon afterwards,
five guns fired in rapid succession, (the private signal of RihoRiho,) announced the approach of his majesty. The brig came to an anchor just as we had finished evening worship with Keopuolani: and Mr. Richards
and myself accompanied Kekauonohi and Nahienaena to
the beach, already thronged by the common people, to
receive him. He landed in a small boat with a single
chief, and saluted us in a polite and friendly manner. After embracing his queen and the princess, he took one under each arm, and hastened up the beach. The parting




142


ARRIVAL OF RIHORIHO.


of the mother and son, when we left Honoruru, had interested us so much, that we felt desirous of witnessing
their first interview after a month's separation. The
chiefs had'assembled, and were formally seated on their
mats in a large circle, before the tent of Keopuolani, waiting the approach of their monarch. He entered the circle
opposite to his mother, and where Wahine-pio, the sister
of Karaimoku, and mother of his youngest queen, was
seated. Dropping on one knee, he saluted her: on which
she burst intotears; and springing from her mat, led him
to that of his mother. He knelt before her, gazed silently
in her face for a moment, then pressed her to his bosom,
and placing a hand on each cheek, kissed her twice in the
most tender manner. The whole scene was quite affecting: I scarce ever witnessed an exhibition of natural affection, where the feelings were apparently more lively
and sincere. The king is a fine-looking man, and graceful in his manners; while gazing on him, the queen's
heart seemed to float in her eyes, and every feature told a
mother's joy.
Tuesday, 24. On going to the beach as usual this morning at sunrise, we found every indication of a scene of
revelry just ended. RihoRiho had taken possession of
his mother's establishment; and, instead of the orderly
and pleasant group which had uniformly before been wai.
ting our arrival, we saw the ground every where strewn
with the bodies of men and women, who evidently had sunk
unconsciously to sleep, amid the vapours of the bottle.
Several empty liquor cases, of brandy, gin, and rum,
stood on a large mat in front of the tent in which the king
was sleeping; and bottles, drained of their contents,
were dispersed widely around.
None of our former party, chiefs or people, were to be
found. At eleven o'clock we repeated our visit: but all
was riot and debauchery, and, not meeting with any of our
pupils, we quickly turned from so melancholy a scene of
licentiousness and intoxication.
At sunset we again went to the beach. The wild and
heathenish sounds of the song and the dance were distinctly to be heard, long before we reached the place of
our customary worship: and the tent of the king was still
the centre of revelry.




SORROW OF KIEOPUOLANT.            14J
On arriving near the crowd, Taua, the private chaplain
of the queen, quickly approached us, saying, he had been
sent to await our arrival, and to inform us, that KeopuOlani would attend prayers at the residence of her daughter,
to which she had removed. This was a pleasing message
to us; and our satisfaction was greatly increased on entering the ranai of the princess, to find the whole of our
pupils assembled-even Kekauonohi, the young queen.
Never can we forget the appearance of Keopuolani.
The countenance and manner of no pious Christian nmother could have manifested more real anguish of spirit, in
witnessing the dissipation of a beloved son. As we approached, her eyes filled with tears, and, with a voice almost inarticulate from emotions ready to overpower her,
she lifted her hand, and, pointing to the scene of intemperance and debauchery, exclaimed, "Pupuka! pupuka!"
" Shameful! oh shameful!" and throwing herself back.
ward with a convulsive sob, hid her face and her tears in a
a roll of tapa, against which she was reclining.
Our hearts were deeply touched: and our spirits at once
assumed an elasticity, that caused them to rise to a height
proportionable to the depression under which they had laboured. With an excitement of hope never known before,
we commenced the evening sacrifice. Taua seemed to partake deeply in our feelings, and exercised a spirit of prayer
that would have elevated hearts far more insensible than
ours were at the time. While he affectionately presented
the queen herself before the throne ofGod, and fervently
besought the outpourings of the'Holy Spirit upon her, we
could scarce resist the belief; that the strong principles of
moral rectitude, which she had uniformly manifested, and
which were then so strikingly displayed, were but the
dawnings of that light, which would securely guide her immortal spirit to the realms of everlasting day: and touched with sympathy, as for a fellow child of God, we were
constrained to mingle our tears with those of the parent,
while he proceeded most humbly and importunately to supplicate the forgiveness, reformation, and eternal redemption, of her son. Before bidding her good night, she earnestly begged, us to pray for the king; and on our replying
that she musft lso pray for him, she said she constantly
did, but that they both needed our prayers.




144   DEFENCE OF THE MISSIONARIES.


We aftewar   learned, that early in the morning, she
had reprtov,~ed 1oRiho for his habits of dissipation;
wned hiim iof i ttemporal and eternal consequences of
them; and finding that he disregarded her advice, with.
drew to the house of her daughter, where she was joined
by the chiefs, except those he had brought with him.
Seeing how much his mother was devoted to her spelling book, and how deeply interested she was in all our instructions, the king, under the influence of his unhappy indulgenees, said to her, You study too much, it is not
good: you are old, and it is well for you to study a little
only:" to which Keopuolani replied, " True, I am indeed
an old woman; soon I shall die: therefore, I must learn
soon, or I shall die before I obtain the good thing that I
desire."  The king advised her to throw off all the restraints of our instructions, saying, " The Missionaries are
not good. They do not permit us to drink rum, or to do
any thing we formerly did. Their teachings are false and
evil: their prayers are not good; let us return to our former customs; let us now, as we formerly did, drink a little
rum together." The queen answered, " Why do you call
my teachers evil? They are good only, and great is my
love for them. Good is their prayer, evil only has been
ours all their ways are good, bad only are our own. Did
you not in former times tell me that the teachers were
good, and beg me to regard their instructions, and cast
away the customs of our old religion? So I have done;
and I know that I have done well. Are not the Missionaries the same, and their instructions the same?  But now
you disregard the new religion, and wish me to do so likewise; but I will not. I will never forsake my teachers.
I will obey their word. Come you therefore with me;
for never will I take my dark heart again I
Two or three other chiefs, fond of dissipation, added
their persuasions to that of the king, and said, " We have
just discovered from the poe haori '-' company of foreigners,' the thing that is right respecting the Missionaries. Part of their teachings are true and good. It is
well to attend to the 'palapala,' reading and writing; but
there is no good in the ' pule,' religion, in therprayers, and
the preaching, and the Sabbaths. In India we are told,




DISSIPATION OF RIHORILHO.


145


they have the palapala; and are so rich, that all the people
in England and America go there for property; but they
keep their stone and wooden gods still. It will be well
for us, then, to secure the palapala, for it will make us
rich, but let us cast off the pule, it is of no use!"
r From Taua, Keopuolani quickly ascertained the true
state of India, and replied: ' "The inhabitants of India are
still pagans. They are in the darkness of heart which
formerly was ours. If you wish, like them, to keep your
black hearts, and to be heathen, and to live like the people
of Satan, then live so, cast off the prayer and the Sabbath; and when you die, go and dwell with Satan, in a
world of misery: but leave me to myself, and trouble me
no longer!"
Thursday, 26. This morning Keopuolani sent word to
the king, that unless he reformed, "he would die and go
to the fire;" which had such an effect, that he has ceased
to indulge to excess, and has commenced a course of medicine-his usual practice, when his better thoughts and
resolutions gain a triumph over the power of temptation.
In passing his tent at eleven o'clock, H —   and myself called for a moment. He was tossing on his couch,
groaning in all the horrors of a recovery from his debauch,
and scarce capable of saying, " aroha."  Pauahi, the only
one of his queens who has accompanied him from Oahu,
was seated, a la turc, on the ground, with a large wooden
tray in her lap. Upon this, a monstrous cuttle-fish, (sepia
octopus, an animal of the mnolusca-rermes tribe,) had just
been placed fresh from the sea, and in all its life and vigour.
The queen had taken it up with both hands, and brought
its body to her mouth: and by a single application of her
teeth, the black juices and blood, with which it was filled,
gushed over her face and neck, while the long sucking
arms of the fish, in the convulsive paroxysm of the operation, were twisting and writhing about her head, like the
snaky hairs of a Medusa. Occupied as both hands and
mouth were, she could only give us the salutation of a nod.
It was the first time either of us had ever seen her majesty:
and we soon took our departure, leaving her, as we found
her, in the full enjoyment of the luxurious luncheon.
Friday, 27. The Cleopatra arrived this afternoon, with
13




146


NATIONAL CUSTOMS.


the queens Tamehamaru and Kinau, and two or three hundred attendants, on board.,Monday, 30. Reached the beach this evening, just in
time to witness an interesting sight, the presentation to the
king of a tax levied on a district, on the windward side of
the island. The procession consisted of one hundred and
fifty persons, led by the headman or overseer of the district. They were all neatly dressed in new tapa, and
walked in single file; the first twenty men bearing each a
baked pig or dog, ornamented with green leaves. These
were followed by fifty others, bearing thirty immense calabashes of poe, twenty of which were suspended, each on a
long pole, and carried by two men, and ten others on the
shoulders of the same number of men.  Then came females, to the number of seventy or eighty, each bearing
on her shoulder a large package of tapa, or native cloth.
The whole was deposited in front of the royal tent, and
the company, with hundreds who followed them, seated themselves in a circle at a respectful distance, apparently with the expectation that the king would present
himself.
In the course of half an hour he left his tent, and paced
the large mat in front of it for fifteen or twenty minutes.
He appeared with dignity, and we could not but remark the
similarity of his air and whole appearance to that of persons of rank in our own country, whom we have seen exhibit themselves in the same manner, to gratify the curiosity of the populace.  He took not the least notice of the
throng, and conversed with us as if there had been no persons present but ourselves.
July 1. Witnessed another triumph of the respect and
attachment which the chiefs feel for the new system over
former habits of folly and dissipation. On going to prayers, found the whole court with an immense crowd of common people assembled at a dance.  The collection was
altogetherthe most numerous and noisy of any we had seen.
The dancers were females, eighteen in number; the musicians, seven men.  They continued to dance some mnutes after we entered the circle, but when the usual priod for prayers arrived, notwithstanding a manifest and
ost eager desire of the multitude for the continuance of




A CASE OF OPTHALMIA.            147
the amusement, Tamehamaru beckoned to one of us to proceed to the ranai of the princess, and, taking the arm of
the other, was herself the first to break up the circle, and
put an end to the dance.  She was immediately followed
by all the principal personages, the three other queens, the
king, princess, and chiefs, and by many of the natives. We
seldom have so great attention as was given to the religious
exercises that followed.
July 4. We were made happy by the arrival at Lahaina
this morning, of our highly valued friend, Rev. Mr. Ellis.
He came in a schooner with queen-dowager Kalakua, and
is on his way to Hawaii. The other gentlemen of the deputation have gone direct from Oahu.
Having heard an infant near us cry much during the
day, and, on making inquiry, learned that it was sick;
after tea, this evening, accompanied by the ladies, I went
to see it.
The disease was one of the eye; the inside of the lids
were protruded on the cheeks, and swollen to the bigness
of pigeons' eggs, while they throbbed almost to bursting
with inflammation. The balls of both eyes were entirely
hid.  This had been the condition of the child for seven
days, without an application of any kind, or even the least
covering to protect the irritated organ from the light and
wind, or from the flies which constantly lit on the almost
excoriated surface. The hut of the parents could only be
entered by stooping on our hands and knees, and was too
small to contain more than two of us at the same time.
They had no light, nor an article of any kind necessary to
be used in attending to the infant. Their all consisted of
the tapas they wore, the mats they slept on, and the calabashes from which they eat and drank.
This is by no means a solitary case of suffering, that has
come to our knowledge, Within three days, two other infants have been brought to our yard, in most distressing
situations; one, with a shocking wound on its arm, from
a cut by a broken bottle, and the other almost expiring
with the croup.  Both are already in a state of safety;
and probably have been rescued from death by the prompt
exertions of B —, who took them immediately under
her care, Indeed, we seldom walk out without meeting




148    SERVICES OF THE SABBATH.


many, whose appearance of disease and misery is appalling, and some so remediless and disgusting, that we are
compelled to close our eyes against a sight that fills us
with horror. Cases of ophthalmia, scrofula, and elephantiasis, are very common.
Saturday, 5. The king and his queens, and many other
chiefs, sailed for Morokai..Monday, 7. All the public services of the Sabbath were
performed by Mr. Ellis.  His afternoon sermon led to a
very serious and affecting conversation among the chiefs,
on the subject of the eternal destiny of their ancestors and
former heathen friends. r The fate of the rebel chief, who
fought and was slain, at the accession of the present king
to the throne, in defence of idolatry and of the tabu system, was particularly adverted to. They questioned whether he could possibly be in a state of happiness, since he
died in the cause of the false gods; and also inquired
whether the greater guilt of having worshipped idols was
theirs, or that of their parents who had instructed them to
do it. All agreed, however, in saying, that now they had
received the true light, if they did not walk in it, their
guilt would be much more aggravated than that of their
forefathers, who had lived and died in heathen darkness.
On our way to attend public worship, we found several
persons at work. Mr. Ellis inquired of one, " Whether
Karaimoku had not given orders to the people, not to
work on the Sabbath?" He replied, " He has, but Ianl
working secretly, and Karaimoku will not find it out."
" That may be," said Mr. Ellis, " but there is a greater
than Karaimoku, the only living and true God, who always
knows what you are doing; and he can punish you, though
Karaimoku may not."   Well"' answered the man, " he
will not be ang   with me for niaterin one bed more, and
then I will stop;"  Another, who had ceased to work at a
wooden bowl, after speaking to him in the morning, we
found with it again as we were returning home in the
evening. On speaking to him a second time, he said,
( He had:been to hear us pray, and thought he night go to
work again."  We replied, No, and told him he must tot
work during the whole day. " Jot when the sun gets into
the sea?"  No, not till to-morrow;-on which he with




MISSION XO1tisES.


149


much good nature said, " Well, it is good-let it be so,"and put away his work.
Wednesday, 9. Mr. Ellis embarked this morning in
the brig Ainoa, for Hawaii. I should have accompanied
him, but for an indisposition with which I have been
affected for some days, and which has disqualified me for
undertaking the hardships of the tour.
Jission House at Lahaina, Jiugust 12. I have been
ill for a month past; but within the last week have so far
recovered, as again to be engaged in the duties of the station. On the 5th inst. Mr. Bingham arrived from Oahu;
and on the 7th, our families removed from the plantation
of Mr. Butler to the Mission Houses prepared for us by
Keopuolani on the beach.
These are of one size and one appearance, standing
side by side with the ends towards the sea, and a few yards
only from the beach. The doors are at the ends towards
the ocean, the eaves being too low to allow of their being
at the sides. A rude piazza of poles and the leaves of
the sugar-cane, extends in front from house to house,
forming an open passage in which we are protected from
the sun. The exterior of both buildings is precisely that
of a long low hay stack, such as is frequently seen in an
American barn yard.
Perhaps I can oirfey to you some idea of the interior
of ours. On entering the door you have the whole house,
in one apartment, before you; the sides, ends, and roof to
its peak presenting the small unhewn timber of which it is
constructed, in its original coat of bark, and lashed to.
gether by strings of mountain vine:and then, the thatch
of grass fastened to the sticks by ties of the same material.
Its only floor is the ground, strewn with dried grass, and
covered with mats of the native manufacture. On the
right of the door stands a pine cupboard containing such
table service as w  ave; and on the left, a chest of the
same material, with the provisions of the day. Near
these articles, on either side of the house, and opposite to
each other, are large flat-topped trunks spread with
cushins of our own make, and covered with the figured
and variegated mats of the country, foriing two settees,.
for which the thatch against which they stand, rmakes ver
13S




150     FURNITU IE OF MISSION HOUSE.
tolerable backs. Immediately adjoining each of these,
are the portable writing desks of H --- and myself,
elevated on packing boxes covered with native cloth, and
standing under square holes cut in the thatch, on each side
of. the hut, for windows, but unfurnished with sash or glass.
A curtain of coarse check, drawn or undrawn at pleasure,
here crosses the house, behind which, on the one side is
our bed, surrounded by curtains to keep off the wind, and
surmounted by a kind of canopy of mats to defend it from
the rain, in wet weather, and from the lizards which harbour in the grass of the sides and roof, and not unfrequently
fall upon us. Opposite this is a large packing box for a
dressing table. The only remaining article, is a book
case of unpainted deal, against the further end, containing
my library:-with a window on one side affording a view
of the interior settlements, and of the mountains behind:
and a door on the other, the entrance to B-'s apartment.
Thus you perceive that our whole accommodations,
huts, furniture, and, I may add, food, will compare, in
rudeness and simplicity, with the meanest abode of cleanly
and industrious poverty at home. We have succeeded in
procuring boards for two tables, have two whole chairs,
and one with a broken back: the fourth moveable seat,
making the whole number belonging to the establishment,
is of our own workmanship, a three-legged stool, such as
that on which
" the immortal Alfred sat,
And sway'd the sceptre of his infant realms."
To the same age belongs our little cabin of grass, with
ground floor and unglazed windows; but the poor thatch,
through which on every side we see " the broad glare of
day," is better suited to this region of perpetual sunshine,
than it would be to latitudes, Where is nightly heard " the
freezing blast,"that " sweeps the bolted shutter.":
I made these loop-holes by which y  may peep in upon
us, not in a spirit of complaint, for I rejoice to assure you,
that days of happiness, bright as any I have ever yet
known, have been spent by me on these distant shores;
but that you may see, that ours is no princely establishment, in which?  dwell in luxury, and lay up treasures
I r   tv!:hildren, from the charities of the church,




ARRIVAL OF THE CHIEFS.            151
Tuesday, 19. Ship Mentor, Captain Newell, of Boston, from the north-west coast, touched on her way to
Oahu. The Champion, Captain Preble, also of Boston,
was at anchor here two or three weeks during my illness.
From both we have received expressions of great kindness.
Thursday, 21. Descried a number of sail, in the early
part of the day, approaching Lahaina from the leeward of
Ranai; and judged them to be the Tauai fleet, bringing
Kaahumanu and king Taumuarii, who were expected from
Oahu. In the course of the afternoon three brigs and two
schooners anchored in the roads. They were exceedingly crowded with people, so much so, as to have not only
the decks, but the chains, bowsprit, and tops, filled; and
to cause the natives, as they passed our yard, constantly
to exclaim, "pau roa mai " every body has come."  We
soon ascertained that a large number of the chiefs, besides
Kaahumanu and Taumnuarii, had arrived; Karaimoku and
suite, Naihi and Kapiolani, Laanui and Namahana, Auna
the Tahitian chief, and his wife, &c. An incident occurred, in the landing of the crowd, which will illustrate the
amphibious nature of the islanders. Besides the boats of
the vessels, several double canoes were engaged in transporting the people and their effects to the shore. These
are formed of two single canoes of the same size, placed
parallel to each other, at a distance of three or four feet,
and lashed firmly together by transverse pieces of curved
wood, making a flattened arch over the water between the
canoes. Other pieces of wood are fastened longitudinally
on this arch, constituting an elevated platform for the passengers and luggage, while those who paddle and steer,
occupy the bodies of the canoes at the sides. A boat of
this construction left a schooner, anchored near a mile
from the shore, with a heavy load, and had proceeded but
a short distance, before it filled with water, and sunk to the
surface. A shout of merriment, along the whole beach,
first apprized us of the circumstance; and we reached the
door in time only to see the passengers, chiefs and servants, male and female, plunging into the sea, and composedly striking for the shore with one hand, while with
the other, each elevated above his heai some article or
package he did not wish to become wet. 




152      TORCOHES OF THE TUTUI-NUT.
Those who had the management of the canoe remained
to free it from water, and to return it to the beach. This
they did by all placing their weight upon one end of it, by
which means the opposite end was lifted into the air, and
the water poured out; when, by a quick and dexterous return of themselves into the sea, the end elevated suddenly
descended to a level again, and the whole canoe was partially relieved from her burden. By repeating this manoeuvre two or three times, the greater part of the water
was turned out, and the rest easily removed with a cala-bash.
Not unfrequently in making a passage from one island
to another, their canoes become filled by the breaing of a
sea; in which case, they are in the same manner restored
to a manageable condition: a part of the company swimming about with the luggage, above water, while the rest
prepare the boat for the continuance of the voyage.
Auna and Laanui took tea with us; after which, accompanied by Mr. Binghan, we called on the rest. They
were partaking of a profuse supper of baked meats, soups,
fish, poe, ship bread, and tea; and scattered along the
beach, in temporary accommodations, surrounded by hundreds of the splendid torches of the tutui nut, made quite
an imposing appearance. Kamehamaru was seated at
her writing-desk in the open air, preparing a letter, by the
light of the torches held by several servants, to be sent
express to the king, now on the windward side of Maui,
to inform him of the arrival of Kaahumanu and Karaimoku. They were all in high spirits, and seemed greatly to
enjoy the meeting which had taken place. Prayers were
made at their particular request, with separate groups, in
three different places, before we returned home.
The tutui tree, alewrites triloba, is very abundant on the
mountains. Its leaves are large, of a very light green, the
under surface almost white; and bearing large bunches of
white flowers, the contrast afforded by it, with the dark
green of other mountain growth, has a very pretty effect,
both when viewed near and at a distance. The nut of
this tree was the principal substitute for candles among the
islanders, before  introduction of oil by the whale ships.
Itis narly as large as a Madeira nut, to which it bears




DEDICATION OF THE CHAPEL.          153
some resemblance. It is full of a rich oil; and after being
slightly baked, is formed into torches by stringing thirty
or forty nuts together on a rush; and enclosing four or
five of these strings in the leaves of the ti or hala.  After
being lighted, before one nut is consulned, the flame communicates to the oil of that next below; as the flame expires, the shell of the exhausted nut is struck off, till the
whole is consumed.
Sabbath, 24. Thinking it a favourable opportunity for
opening the chapel, while Mr. Bingham and so many of
the chiefs are with us, we had the house prepared yesterday, and gave notice that the public services of the Sabbath would be held in it.  Mr. Bingham accordingly
preached a dedicatory sermon; text, " This is none other
but the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven."
Seldom have we seen any house filled with a more crowded and attentive audience.  The chiefs appeared greatly
interested in the sermon and exercises.  May it prove
the birth-place of many souls; and an entrance to heaven,
through which multitudes shall be added to the ransomed
of the Lord!
CHAPTER IX.
ILLNESS OF KEOPUOLANI.
MIission House, Lahaina, Sept. 2, 1823. The queen
Keopuolani has been unwell for some days. It is a custom among the chiefs to assemble at any place, where one
of their number of much importarfce is ill; the least indisposition of a very high chief will thus call the" h ke poe n'
drii," or company of chiefs together. The illness of Keopuolani, though not supposed serious, has occasioned despatches to be sent by several native vessels, for the high
chiefs on all the different islands.
Thursday, 4. When we rose this morning, three vessels,
two schooners and a brig, were approaching Lahaina.
Just after breakfast, one of the schooners came to anchor,
and brought to us Mr, Ellis, on his return from the tour




154           CUSTOM OF WAILING.
of Hawaii. The deputation have had a most interesting,
but fatiguing journey; and a slight glance at the journal
and drawings of Mr. EBllis, makes me regret more than
ever the necessity that denied me the pleasure of accompanying him. The rest of the gentlemen have gone directly to Honoruru in the brig Becket. The other vessels
were the Waverly and the Waterwitch, from Oahu, bringing the chiefs sent for by Keopuolani.
Shortly after these had landed, I went to the residence
of the queen, and witnessed one of the most striking peculiarities in the customs of the islanders, that of wailing.
There were not less than fifty chiefs around the couch of
the queen, and twice that number of their atteddants, all
weeping aloud with an apparent sincerity and depth of feeling that could not be witnessed, considering the present
occasion of it, without exciting sympathy in the spectator.
Tile young Kahalaia, a nephew of the late king, was the
only one of the number just arrived, who entered the
house after I did. He is one of the most stern and forbidding of the chiefs, but the general inflexibility of his character seemed to give way at the scene; and after kneeling and saluting the sufferer respectfully and tenderly, he
struggled for a moment with a convulsive emotion, and then
" lifted up his voice," and wept in a manner that would
have touched any heart.
To us these wailings appear extremely barbarous, though
I doubt not they are precisely the expressions of sorrow
made by the most refined and polished of the ancients;
and I never witness them without being reminded of the
mournings of the people of Israel, as spoken of in the
Scriptures. Shortly after I reached the house, Mr. Bingham and Mr. Ellis came in, when Karaimoku immediately
commanded silence, and requested that prayers might be
made. I was affected with the propriety of the proposal,
and have scarce ever before felt more interest in a hymn
and prayer with the natives than in those which immediately followed.
While at dinner, Mr. Hunnewell, the first mate of the
Thaddeus, when she brought out the pioneers of the Mission, and who has resided on the islands as a commercial
agent ever since, came in quite ill; he is an amiable and




AUNA, A TAHITIAN CHIEF.          155
espectable young man, and has become justly dear to the
Mission, from his unwavering friendship in the midst of
much opposition. We were happy to have it in our power
Lo secure to him a quiet room and bed, which he so greatly
needed.
Saturday, 6. The Waterwitch, commanded by Mr.
Hunnewell, left us for Oahu, to bring up Boki, on account
of the increased illness of the queen.  For the same reason the barge has sailed for Kairua, to bring governor
Adams.
Monday,,. The exercises in the chapel yesterday
morning weperformed by Auna, the Tahitian chief, an
assistant Missionary to Mr. Ellis. He is a noble looking
man, a graceful speaker, and an enlightened and zealous
Christian. In the afternoon I preached through Honorii,
as interpreter.  This morning, the Ainoa, a native brig,
arrived from Hawaii, bringing Mr. Harwood, a young
American, who has resided some time with the Mission
family at Honoruru, and who accompanied the deputation
on their tour through Hawaii.
Tuesday night. We were so much exposed to depredations by theft, that the queen some time since appointed a
trusty servant to take charge of our yard, as keeper and
guard of the articles necessarily in daily use. This evening, while at tea, we were alarmed by the hasty entrance
of this man, exclaiming, u a make roa Keopuolani," "i Keopuolani is dead:" after interrogating him, however, we
found that she was only more ill, and would soon die.
Mrs. Richards, H-, and myself, immediately hastened
down, though dark and late. We found the house, which
is very large, crowded with the chiefs, who had assembled
from all their different abodes, and were seated in silence
and sadness, as near the queen as they could prest: Her
couch was surrounded by Hoapiri her husband, the king
and favourite queen, prince and princess, king Taumuarii,
laahumanu, and Karaimoku.
Many of these were bathed in tears. The queen seemed very feeble, and could scarce speak. She reached her
hand to the ladies, however, whispering an affectionate
" aroha," adding, " maitai, naitai," "' good, good," in expression of gratitude for their coming out at night to see




156


KEOPUOLANI'S ILLNESS.


her. But what most delighted us was, the low, but express
sive sentences which immediately followed, while she continued still to press their hands, " Make make au i ke
Akua,"   I love God;" and shortly again, " Jlroha ino
iau i ke Jlkua,"  Great indeed is my love to God!"
She was too feeble to say more, but seemed in a state of
mind to give much stronger testimony to the excellency
and power, even in death, of the religion we had brought
to her.
The cause of the sudden gloom and alarm, was not any
very material change in Keopuolani, but the opinion of Mr.
Law, the king's surgeon, that she could not rcover; and
the declaration that he could be of no further use to her.
The king asked me whether it would not be well for him to
despatch a vessel immediately to Oahu, for Dr. Blatchely,
of the Mission, to which I answered in the affirmative, be.
ing myself unwilling that any means of saving so valuable
a life should remain untried. A pilot boat sailed, in a few
minutes, with Honorii, as the king's messenger, to bring
Dr. Blatchely.
Wednesday morning, 10. At 12 o'clock last night I was
awakened by the young Kahalaia, with a message from
Karaimoku-that the queen was worse, and they wished
me to come down. I found the whole company much agitated; and although Keopuolarii had recovered from the
spasn which caused them to send for me, I remained till
daybreak with her. She had two or three attacks, which
I thought she could not survive.  She bears her sufferings with much fortitude and patience, however; scarce
a sigh escaping her lips, while all around her are drowned
in tears.
The chiefs are most assiduous and indefatigable in their
attentions. None of them left her, or slept for a moment
during the night; even the little prince and princess never
closed their eyes. The kindness and attention of Kamehamaru is particularly observable; she watches every look
and motion, and anticipates every wish.  I have scarce
ever had my feelings of sympathy more deeply touched
than on seeing her and the king, and Hoapiri, bending
over the queen whenever she appeared to be in peculiar
agony-their strong desire, yet inability, of rendering her




A FOREIGNER DROWNED.              157
aly relief, was deeply expressed in their looks, and manifbsted itself in renewed bursts of tears.
It was a profitable night to my own mind-every thing
was calculated to confirm me in the importance of being
prepared to meet and struggle with the king of terrors. I
thought of the sufferings the Son of God endured for the
salvation of sinners; and the lively view of them, connectAd with their necessity and their end, caused me to mingle
my tears with those that were flowing from all around
me: and my prayer was not only that this gentile, lately
made acquainted with the knowledge of God, but that I
also, nurtured and brought up in the admonition of the
Lord, might be saved.
Thursday, 11. Yesterday and to-day the surf has
been excessively heavy, and often by its beauty and sublimity has attracted our attention and admiration.  But
the dark wing of death has been over it, and its loveliness
for a time is shrouded in gloom. At eleven o'clock this
morning the long-boat of the brig Ainoa was overturned in
attempting to land by the usual passage, and four white
men narrowly escaped drowning, while a fifth sunk to rise
no more alive. The report flying among the natives, Ka.
haori make roa i ka nalue, " The foreigner is dead in the
surf," collected a number of foreigners on the beach, by
whom exertions were made to restore him to life, but without success. The spirit had fled through the foaming
surges to the world of retribution! Mr. Butler humanely
had the corpse removed to his enclosure; from whence in
the evening, attended by most of the foreigners then at
Lahaina, we bore it to a more decent grave, than is the
last abode of many an inhabitant of Christianlands, whose
destiny is to die among the heathen.
Friday, 12. The pilot boat New York arrived at noon
with Dr. Blatchely and Mr. Richards; the surf is still
very high and dangerous, but they landed safely about two
o'clock. Dr. Blatchely thinks the queen will not recover.
Governor Adams not having arrived, two additional vessels aiave been despatched for him.
JMonday, 15. At midnight a messenger came for Dr.
Blatchely to visit the queen. I accompanied him to see
her. She was very ill, but the fear of God seemed to pre14




158    LAST ILLNESS OF KEOPUOLANI.
dominate over every other feeling. When a little wine
and arrowroot were recommended to her, she desired that
Auna, the Tahitian, might be called to speak " the good
word, and!o make a prayer." After she had taken the
refreshment, she appeared more easy, and Auna, in conm
pliance with her request, at the suggestion of the king,
proceeded to address Keopuolani and those present on
the subject of religion. He continued his remarks for
half an hour, and concluded with a most spiritual and fervent prayer. This converted pagan is a correct and stable Christian: he was long a deacon in a church in his
native island; and, I have no doubt, has been instrumental, under the blessing of God, of enlightening the
mind of this dying chief unto salvation, through faith in
Jesus Christ.
It was a profitable hour to my own spirit, though I
could understand but little of what was said. I knew the_
subject, however, and saw that eveW word, and every
look, and every gesture, sprung from an eloquence of
soul, that originated only in a lively sense of the reality and
importance of the things of eternity.
Tuesday, 16. This has been an interesting and memo.
rable day. Last night the Paragon, Capt. Coles of Boston, from Oahu, anchored amongthe vessels now here. Mr.
Hays, captain's clerk, landed at eleven o'clock, and informed us that Mr. and Mrs. Ellis and Mr. Ruggles were
on board. They came on shore at eight o'clock this morning, and called immediately on the queen; but finding her
in a deep sleep, passed on to the Mission House.
The arrival of Mr. Ellis was most opportune. The
dying hour of our kind patroness and friend was evidently fast approaching; and "hoping" as we do "in her
death," we were anxious that some words might be drawn
from her in conversation, that would prove an encouragement to our hearts, and a blessing to the immortals who
with the deepest interest hung round her dying couch.
After an hour, Mr. Ellis and myself again called to see
her. She was still asleep. The king, Kaahumanu, and
Karaimoku, immediately and urgently requested that she
might be baptized; saying, that it was her earnest and
special desire, and that she had only that morning begged




HEATHEN CUSTOMS.


159


i to be washed with water, in the name of God." The king
told Mr. Ellis, they did not wish her to be baptized, because, they thought she celd not be saved without it; but
because she was a Christian, had the true faith in her
heart, had given herself to Jesus Christ long before she
was sick, and because all the people of God were baptized,
and she had herself so earnestly requested it. Mr. Ellis
told them he would consult Mr. Richards and myself on
the subject, and when she awoke, would converse with and
baptize her.
The certainty of her death had spread universal alarm
among the people. She was known to be the highest
chief on the islands; and, according to former and immemorial customs, the death of such has ever been attended with all kinds of extravagance, violence, and abomination. On such an occasion, every restraint was cast off;
and all were in the habit of following the impulse of any
and every wild passion that might seize them. Rights of
persons or of property were no longer regarded: and he
who had the greatest muscular powers, committed whatever depredation he chose, and injured any one he thought
proper.+ Even the chiefs losttheir ordinary pre-eminence,
and could exert no influence of restraint on the excesses of
their subjects. It was the time of redressing private
wrongs, by committing violence on the property and pernon of an cnenmy; and every thing that any one possessed
was liable to be taken from him. Their grief was expressed by the most shocking personal outrages. Not
only by tearing off their clothes entirely, but by knocking
out their eyes and teeth with clubs and stones, and pulling
out their hair, and by burning and cutting their flesh;
while drunkenness, riot, and every species of debauchery,
continued to be indulged in, for days after the death of the
deceased.
Reports of these usages, and intimations of the danger
to which we should be exposed from them, were brought
to us from every quarter, both by foreigners and natives.
We felt very little apprehension, however; for we were
confident, that ourselves and families would be inviolate,
however great the excesses among the natives might be.
About four o'clock, while on the way with Mr. Ellis and




160


BAPTISM OF THE QUEEN,


Dr. Blatchely, a third time to the queen's residence, I met
Mr. Jones, the consul, who arrived this morning in the
Paragon, with one or two othe& gentlemen, and returned
with them to the Mission House. The conversation soon
turned on the anticipated scenes of violence; the gentlemen seemed fully persuaded that there was great cause
for apprehension, and were just offering their boats and
ship, as a refuge for the ladies in case of extremity, when
Richard Karaioula rushed in, in breathless terror, exclaiming, " The queen is dead!" We immediately snatched
our hats, and were involuntarily hastening down the beach,
when, observing the natives flying by hundreds in every
direction, through fish-ponds and taro patches, over walns
and fences, apparently in a state of half distraction, bearing with them calabashes, tapas, and whatever of their
property they had caught up in their flight; while the
whole heavens rung with lamentations and woe; I returned
without delay to our enclosure, fearing an alarm to the
females, who were alone.
In about fifteen minutes, Mr. Ruggles came up, confirming the statement of her death, and adding that great
excesses had already commenced.   In about fifteen
minutes more, while the confusion and alarm seemed
every where to increase, Mr. Ellis came running to the
house, with the information that she was not dead-bad
only fainted-had revived again-and that tie cifics wert;
importuning him, in the strongest terms, to baptize her
immediately. We all went down. The orders of the
king and Karaimoku had restored quietness, to a degree;
and we found our friend so far revived, as to breathe
regularly, and yet not so much so, as to speak intelligibly.
An interested and interesting group of foreigners, missionaries, and merchants, and chiefs, near relatives and
friends, surrounded the dying pillow, and waited a few
moments, hoping that the fluttering spirit might still be
roused entirely from its lethargy, ere it quitted its earthly
tenement for ever. But there being little prospect of this,
Mr. Ellis proceeded at length to administer the sacred
ordinance, which entitles all who receive it to the name of
Christian. It was a solemn moment, and an awful place;
and our prayer was, that it might be none other than '" the




HERl DYING TESTIMONY.           161
house of God and the gate of heaven," to the immortal
soul, hovering on the borders of eternity.
Thus the highest chief of the Sandwich Islands, after
having given satisfactory evidence of a renewed heart,
and of sincere love to Jesus Christ, was initiated into the
visible church of God: and as we hope and believe, in
the course of an hour after, joined the invisible church
above, having triumphed over the power of death and the
grave.
It is not without good, and abundant reason, that we
entertain this belief. It is but a year since Keopuolani
began to manifest much interest in the object of the
Missionaries, or to pay much attention to their instructions:
but since that time, the evidences that her heart was deeply
touched by the power of grace, have been decisive, and
in many instances truly affecting. The rejection of every
practice which she discovered to be inconsistent with the
principles of Christianity, an irreproachable external
deportment, a cheerful and rigid compliance with every
observance of our religion, the habit of constant secret
prayer, of regular family worship with her household, and
strong attachment to the services of the day of God, hei
proclamations among the people against their former vices,
and her rebuke of sin when detected; all confirmed us in
a belief of the sincerity of her attachment to Christianity,
expressed in her daily conversations.
For months, at least, the predominating thoughts and
feelings of her mind and heart appear to have been those
connected with the eternal destiny of the soul. Long
before coming to Lahaina, she said to Taua, her private
chaplain, when conversing with him on the subject of
religion: "Great is the fear of my heart, that I shall
never become one of the people of Jesus Christ: I have
followed the customs of my country, and have been of'
the company of dark hearts; my thought is, that I shall
soon die: and great is my sorrow, that the teachers of the
good way did not come to us in the days of our childhood!"
And, afterwards-" I know their word to be true; good
indeed is the word of God; and now I have found a
Saviour and a good King, Jesus Christ, the Lord."
14*




LOZ          PIETY OF THE QUEEN,
We have been informed by Taua, that since her establishment at Lahaina, messengers have arrived for him at
mid-night, to come and pray for her. On going to her
residence, he has found her, with a few attendants, waiting
his arrival: as he entered, she on one occasion said, " I
am sorry to call you from your rest; but my thoughts are
upon God, and I cannot sleep. I am old, soon I shall die,
and great is my fear that I shall not know enough of the
right way to go to heaven. Speak to me of the good
word of God, that my dark mind may be enlightened."'
And he has thus spent hours, in conversing and praying
with her and her immediate attendants, while all the rest
of Lahaina has been wrapt in sleep.
After praying with her, at one time, she said, " Now
tell me something of Jesus."  In complying with this
request, he made choice of the last scene in our Saviour's
life, the trial before Pilate, the condemnation, and crucifixion. He spoke of the scourging and crowning with
thorns, and of the leading away to execution; but whenl
he came to describe the nailing of the body by the hands
and feet to the cross, she burst into tears, and exclaimeJd,
' Oh! stop; I can hear no more: I and all my people,
like the murderers of Jesus, are wicked and cruel!"
e As I approached the grove in which she resided, to
attend the customary worship, one morning, she was
seated on her sofa, with one of her hands pressed upon
ler bosom, apparent!y absorbed in deep and painful
thought. On arriving near, I heard her voice in an under
tone, and caught the words, " Te ahi! Te ahi aore pio!
Te ahi a a roa!"-"- Fire; inextinguishable fire; everlasting fire!"-to which were added the exclamations, " Oh
the sorrows of the wicked! They will cry for water, 0
yes, they will cry for water! but there will be none: no,
none at all; not even a drop for the end of their tongues!"
A train of thought, which, as I afterwards discovered, had
been induced by meditations on the darkness of her own
life, and fears of the just punishment of sin.
From the time her illness assumed an alarming aspect,
she was unceasing, so far as her strength allowed, in her
Christian counsels and exhortations to the chiefs, individually and collectively. When Karainoku arrived from




HIER DYING THOUGHTS.            163
)abu, she said to him, " Great is the love of my heart for
the good word of God, by which my mind has been
enlightened. The word of God is true; it is a good
word, and Jehovah is a God of goodness. Great is my
love for him; great is my love for Jesus Christ, his Son.
I have no desire for the former gods of Hawaii: they are
false. My desire is unto Jesus Christ: and I have given
myself unto him. My thoughts are much upon my grandfather Taraiopu, my father Kauikeaouli, and my husband
Tamehameha, they lived not to see these good times, and
to hear of the salvation of Jesus Christ. They knew not
Jehovah, the true God. They died trusting to the false
gods. I exceedingly mourn and lament, that they saw not
these good times of salvation! Do not you neglect to pray
to God; cease not to regard the Sabbath; commit no
sin; and love Jesus Christ, —that we two may meet in
heaven."
Her conversations with other chiefs of rank were of a
similar character. She addressed the king in the following manner: " 1 am now about to die; I shall soon leave
my children and my people, and these lands; and I wish
now to give you my last charge"-and after recommending
to him a mild and kind government of his subjects, added:
" Protect the Missionaries, and treat them kindly. Walk
in the straight path which they point out to you. Regard
the Sabbath. Serve God, love Jesus Christ, and attend
to all the good word; follow not the example of the evil,
when your mother is gone, but follow that of the good,
that we may meet in heaven."
She expressed great solicitude for the prince and
princess; and repeatedly commended them to the care of
the chiefs, especially in reference to their morals, and to
the instructions of the Mission.
This morning, before she fell into the stupor, Auna and
Taua approached her couch, and asked what her thoughts
then were. She replied, " I remember the word of my
teachers. I pray greatly to Jesus Christ to receive me.
I am about to die; but it is not dark now, as it would have
been, had I died in former days. Pray for me; let all the
Missionaries pray for me. Great is my love to them,
great is my love to you. NMy thought is, that I love Jesus




104


GRIEF OF THE PEOPLE.


Christ, and that he will receive me to his right hand,
Great is my desire to be washed with water, in the name
of God, before I die. I have given myself to Jesus
Christ. I am his; and I wish to be like his people i"
Mr. Ruggles informed us, that when a son of Taumuarii died at Tauai, the Missionary houses were guarded
by sixty armed men, till after the burial of the body; and
suggested the propriety of requesting a guard on the present occasion. Mr. Ellis accordingly spoke to Karaimoku
on the subject. He answered, that there was not the
least necessity for it, that we need not entertain any apprehension whatever, that Keopuolani had long before forbidden every heathen practice at her death; and that the
people had received the strictest orders against all their
former customs, except wailing.
Wednesday, 17. At nine o'clock last night, we went to
hold prayers with the mourners. Instead of the anticipated confusion and riot, we found all still and orderly
along the beach; except here and there a group, and a
very large assemblage near the residence of the queen,
who lifted up their voices, and wept aloud. All that we
saw excited our sympathy, rather than any horror or disgust. The nearest relations were still beside the corpse,
and presented an affecting spectacle; especially the little
prince and princess, who appeared entirely inconsolable.
Hoapiri, with one of these in each arm, pressed me also
to his bosom, exclaiming: "Keopuolani, our friend, is
gone to heaven; and we, alas, are left alone."
Prayers were held with them this morning also; whell
the royal family, for the first time, made their appearance
before the multitude collected round the house of death.
They were greeted with the loudest expressions of grief:
and, though unaccompanied with personal violence, the
scene was really frightful. I could plainly see how the
enthusiasm, to which the people wrought themselves.
might be heightened to a frenzy, that would know no law.
The king and Karaimoku were convulsed with weeping,
but did not, like the rest of the family, wail after the manAer of the heathen.
During the whole day, while preparations for the funeral
were making, every thing exhibited signs of woe. The




WTAILING SCENE.              105
whole district sent forth one uninterrupted sound of
lamentation: while large companies, from distant settlements, were covering the beach in sad procession, and
rending the heavens with their cries. Minute guns have
been fired since daybreak, and all the vessels at anchor,
fifteen in number, have their yards canted, and wear their
colours at half-mast.
Many things that I have witnessed, have again called to
mind the ancient customs of the Jews in times of affliction, not only the " lifting up of the voice," and weeping
aloud, but " the rending of the garment"-" the clothing
in sackcloth,"  and sitting in dust and ashes:" here all
disfigure themselves by the coarsest, and most ragged and
filthy attire, of old mats and tapa; while, in many cases,
their heads are covered with dust and sand.
On meeting any high chief, they prostrate themselves
on the ground, and redouble every expression of grief. I
never witnessed such a scene as took place on the arrival
of governor Adams, this afternoon: especially when the
high chiefs and mourners came from the house in which
the corpse lay, to meet him. I was near the governor at
the time, surrounded by not less than, five thousand of
the natives, who seemed to become absolutely frantic, and
ready to fall into any act of desperation that might cross
their minds. Their wailings were indescribable, to one
not present; and the noise so overwhelming, that the
minute guns could scarce be heard through the din.
The word which they pronounce in wailing is " auiwe"" auwe"-" alas! alas! —prolonging the sound of the
last syllable, sometimes, for many minutes, with a trembling and agitated shaking of the voice. The tones in
which it is uttered by different personis, vary from the
lowest to the highest key,-and from that which is most
plaintive, to that which is most shrill. There being no
uniformity in the time of beginning or ending the word,,
the confusion and discord thus created is terrific. The
attitudes of figure are as various as the tones of voice.
Some stand upright; casting their arms and faces towards
heaven, with the eyes closed, and mouth widely distended.
Others, instead of throwing their arms upwards, clasp
their hands, and place them behind their heads, Some
bend forward, their faces almost to the ground, and, with




166


FORMER MODE OF BURIAL.


their hands braced against their knees, or violently pressed
into their sides, as if in excruciating internal agony;others clench their hands into the hair on each side of
their heads, as if to tear it out by the roots: and all seem
to emulate one another, in attempts at the most hideous
grimaces and painful distortions, while torrents of tears
flow from their heads to their feet.
The governor and chiefs, after approaching within eight
or ten yards of each other, stood at least fifteen minutes
wailing in this manner with the multitude around them,
before they embraced, and entered the house.
Thursday, 18. Every thing being in readiness for the
funeral of our departed friend, she was, at two o'clock
to-day, deposited in a substantial mud-and-stone house,
lately built by the princess. This is the first Christian
funeral of a high chief that has ever taken place in the
islands; and will probably be a precedent for all future
burials among the heads of the nation. How different the
rites of her sepulture from those of her fathers! They,
since time unknown, have been dissected in secret by
their nearest friends; their flesh has been burned, and cast
into the sea, with many idolatrous observances; and their
bones carefully preserved and worshipped; while she
calmly awaits the resurrection in the decent habiliments of
a Christian's tomb. So anxious was Keopuolani on this
subject, that, when in perfect health, she charged the king
to allow of none of the former practices, at her death;
stating, that they all belonged to the time " of dark hearts'h
-that she had lived to see the light-had cast off all their
former customs-had surrendered herself to Jesus Christ
-and wished her body to be given to his people-the
Missionaries-to be buried according to their direction,
and wherever they might think best.
In consequence of this charge, Mr. Ellis had the
arrangement of the funeral, which was conducted with
the greatest order and propriety.  The concourse of
people was very great, amounting to many thousands;
but there was no greater irregularity or disturbance than
there would have been among the same number in a
Christian land, on a similar occasion. The bell rang at
twelve o'clock for the commencement of the religious




FUNERAL.


167


exercises, which were held in the grove of trees near the
queen's residence, the chapel being too small even for the
chiefs.-We all attended in mourning; and after a hymn,
prayer, and sermon, by Mr. Ellis, the procession, led by
the American consul, was formed. The Mission family
walked next to the foreigners, who, to the number of thirty
or forty, followed Mr. Jones. Next came the household
attendants and favourite servants of Keopuolani, headed
by her own steward and that of her daughter-then the
corpse, covered with a rich pall, the bearers of which were
the five queens of RihoRiho, and the wife of Boki-a
daughter of Hoapiri-each carrying a beautiful black
kahile-then the nearest relatives and highest chiefs, and
a procession of at least six or seven hundred persons,
principally chiefs of various ranks, with their favourites
and friends.
All in the procession were dressed in the European
style, and generally in black, with appropriate badges of
mourning.  Among the attendants of the chiefs, there
were a few scarlet and yellow feather mantles and capes;
and a considerable company of females dressed in scarlet
paus trimmed with black, and black shawls, followed in the
rear of the procession. The bell tolled, and minute guns
continued to be fired, till the body was deposited in the
place appointed for it. The relatives and high chiefs
encamped immediately around the house, and are now
busily engaged in erecting temporary booths; designing
to live near the body for some time to come.
It is a great joy to us, to have the dust of one so justly
dear committed thus decently and honourably to the tomb.
Such a funeral-one that would have appeared respectable
even in a Christian country-is a great triumph over the
deep-rooted superstitions and abominations of this nation
on such occasions; and deserves to be recorded as a
remarkable epoch in the Mission. I am persuaded it has
given a death-blow, among the chiefs, to their former
burial rites and ceremonies. It is viewed in this light both
by natives and foreigners, inimical to our influence. Such
have openly spoken of it as a triumph, which they would
most gladly have defeated, and which has roused much of
their hatred and abuse. Some of the chiefs most favour



168


LORDi'S SUPPER.


able to the innovation, have suffered much ridicule and
sarcasm for abandoning the customs of their fathers, and
adopting the ceremonies of foreign nations. One, who is
of a character to exult in the riot and debauchery of former
times, and who looks on the restraints of civilization and
piety with a malicious jealousy, ever since the death of
the queen, has addressed a serious and dignified compeer,
either in ignorant or wilful blasphemy, by the word " Jehovah."  Such, however, is far from being the feeling of
any one of much consequence or authority; and only
to-day, after the crowd had dispersed, Karaimoku was
heard to say, as he took his seat by the king-" What
fools we have been, to burn our dead, and cast them into
the sea; when we might thus have committed their bodies
to the tomb, and have had the satisfaction of still dwelling
near them."
Sabbath, 21. Mr. and Mrs. Ellis, Mr. Ruggles, and
Dr. Blatchely, with all the Tahitian and most of the
Hawaiian church members, being at Lahaina, we felt desirous of improving their visit by the celebration of the
Lord's Supper. Accordingly that ordinance was observed
to-day; we were happy to have so large a number to join
us in exhibiting, for thefirst time on the island of Maui, the
symbols of that " broken body" and " shed blood,"
through which only there is remission of sin and acceptance
with God. The house was crowded, many of the chiefs
and natives being present, besides a considerable number
of our own countrymen, who, though born and brought up
" under the droppings of the sanctuary," still, during the
solemn feast, stood afar off "in the court of the gentiles,"
thus confessing that they had no better " part nor lot il
this matter" than the heathen by whom they were surrounded. If ever I have felt pain of heart since I came to
these islands, it has been in seeing those who are comparatively " the children of light," sojourning of choice in
Mesech, and dwelling at ease in these tents of Kedar,
' having no hope, and without God in the world."
Wednesday, 24. The whole district, men, women, and
children, to the number of some thousands, have been
daily engaged this week in carrying stones from the old
hei-au, or idolatrous temple, on the south point, to the place


<a




MONUMENT TO THE QUEEN.            169
where Keopuolani is buried, to build a wall and monument
around the house in which she is deposited: headed and
assisted by their chiefs, male and female, of every rank,
they have engaged in the work with much spirit, and pass
and repass our door in troops of a hundred and more at a
time, singing their rude songs with as much merriment, as
with bitterness last week they seemed to wail.
In their feelings they are like children, subject to sudden
and violent excitements, and easily diverted by an opposite cause to a corresponding extreme, whether of grief or
joy. The nearest relatives of the queen, except her hushand and the king, Kaahumanu, and Taumuarii, are engaged in this servile work, and themselves each erect her
monument, with as much merriment as they would form a
festal bower. The high chiefs engage personally in work of
this kind, to evince their respect for the deceased, and to encourage their people in the labour. They are all followed
by their kahiles; and I have smiled more than once to see
a queen or royal princess carrying a large stone, while a
stout man, behind her. has borne nothing but a light
feathered staff, to proclaim the dignity of his mistress.
Ten o'clock, P. AJ. Scarce ever were my feelings
more deeply wounded, than they have been this evening.
During the fortnight of Keopuolani's illness, the king was
perfectly sober. His heart seemed touched by the exhortations of his mother, and open to the persuasions of
the Missionaries, to forsake every evil habit, and seek the
favour of God. His sensibilities were greatly excited by
her baptism, death, and burial; and he resolved to abandon
the habit of intemperate drinking. Apprized of this, some
of the foreigners, here at present, determined to achieve a
triumph over the Mission, as they considered it, by the defeat of an object so desirable and so important.
With this view, two or three successive dinner parties
were made by them, one on the Sabbath, which RihoRiho
was importunately urged to attend; but anticipating the
design, he perseveringly declined. Other attempts were
made to draw him into their company, but all proved unsuccessful till this morning, when he was induced to visit
one of the ships, under the pretence, on the part of his seducers, as we are informed, of shewing some remarkably
15




1 70       DISSIPATION OF RIHORIHO.
beautiful specimens of goods. After being some time on
board, refreshments of various kinds, and liquors, were
served; but of the last, the king refused to partake. A
bottle of choice cherry brandy was then produced, as a
liquor incapable of intoxicating, and which having never
seen before, he was led to taste, and to taste again, till he
requested a bottle of it to take on shore: a favour quickly granted. The result has been, that, as Mr. Ellis and
myself went down the beach at sun-set, we saw the king
seated in front of his tent under the fill] excitement of liquor; Pauahi, in a disgusting state of drunkenness, by his
side; a woman in a similar condition, and almost naked,
dancing and singing before them; and twenty or thirty
others, of both sexes, with cases of gin and rum at hand,
beginning a dreadful revel.
As we approached the circle, RihoRiho immediately
said to us, in a kind, but self-condemning tone," Why do
you come here?"  To which Mr. Ellis replied, "We have
come to express our sorrow for the sad condition you are
in, and to reprove these, your guilty people, for encouraging you to destroy yourself, both body and soul."
upon which he dismissed us with the answer, " You are
good men, you are my friends, but, eia no ke wahi o Debelo!
this is the place of the devil! and it is well for you not to
stay here!" The individual, who has been thus successful in his end, has since boasted, not only that he has made
the king drunk, but that he will keep him so, if he is obliged
to send a vessel to Oahu expressly for more cherry brandy
for the purpose!
But the sorrow of the evening did not rest here. At
the request of the chiefs, we have attended prayers with
them, at the establishment of Kaahurnanu, every evening
about eight o'clock. On going down for this purpose tonight, we saw a considerable collection of persons gathered round Governor Adams, as he was seated in the open
air, surrounded by servants with torches. The bright
glare of these presented the party in strong light to us,
while we ourselves were shrouded by it in double darkness. In front of the governor was one foreigner upon his
knees, making a mimic prayer, in imitation of a Missionary; while another was writing, in large letters on a slate,




VlSIT TO OAHU.


171


and presenting to him for perusal, some of the basest
words in our language! As may be supposed, the recognition of our presence threw the company into some con.
fusion; and one person hastily brushed his hand over the
slate, but not till the indignant eye of Mr. Ellis fully told a
knowledge of its disgusting contents!
Friday, 26. Since the exposures at night, which I underwent during the sickness of Keopuolani, I have been
considerably indisposed. A change of air may be beneficial, and as there is much important and interesting business before the Mission at Honoruru, I have been persuaded to accompany Mr. Ruggles and Mr. Hunnewell,
this afternoon, to Oahu, in the Waterwitch.
Tuesday, Oct. 28. I sailed for Oahu on the expected
evening, now more than a month ago, and after a passage
of nine hours, was at the mouth of the harbour of Honoruru, which we entered at sunrise. No opportunity to
return occurred till last Saturday, when the young prince
came up with about seventy of his attendants, in a small
pilot boat. I never suffered more than on this passage of
forty-eight hours, being exposed during the night to very
heavy rains, and during the day to a burning sun, from
which I could find no retreat. I did not leave the deck for
a moment; for though a part of the small cabin and a
birth were assigned to me, and reserved for my use during
the whole time, the heat and crowd below were so intolerable, that I preferred lying in the rain and water on deck.
to enduring them, even when the showers were most heavy
and sun most powerful. At five o'clock last evening, the
captain of a whale ship, recruiting here, kindly took me in
his boat, from the schooner, before she had come to
anchor, and brought me to my rustic, but neat and happy
cabin.
Nothing of particular moment occurred while I was at
Oahu. It is the season at which the whale ships recruit
at the islands, on their way from Japan to the American
coast, and I had the pleasure of seeing the captains and
officers of nearly thirty ships in that business. The harbour looked quite like a busy port; besides the whale
ships, there were several merchantmen there, some discharging their cargoes, just arrived from Canton, others




172   FIRST CHRISTIAN MARRIAGE.


from the North-west Coast, and from the United States;
some taking in sandal wood for China, while others, hove
down, were stopping leaks, &c. Two small vessels also
were on the stocks, building, to sell to the government.
The distribution of the Missionaries to their several
stations took place before I returned, and arrangements
were happily made for occupying two new stationsKaird iand Waiakea-on the island of Hawaii.
Mr. and Mrs. Thurston sailed from Oahu the evening
before I did, for Kairua: the brig in which they were,
anchored here during the night; and we had the happiness
of receiving and welcoming them at our establishment to
breakfast this morning, after the severe trial, of a voyage
of four days in a dirty crowded native vessel; trial, I say,
for I have known none equal to that of the voyage I last
made, since I have been a Missionary: a gale in the
Gulf-stream, or passage round Cape Horn, in a decent
vessel, in point of comfort and enjoyment, is not to be
compared with it.'
The most important event at Lahaina, during my absence, was the marriage of our friend Hoapiri, the husband
of Keopuolani, to Kalakua, one of the queens-dowager,
mother of Tamehamaru, the favourite wife of RihoRiho.
I received the information of it in a letter before I left
Oahu, in which it is said, " Hoapiri was this day joined in
holy wedlock to Kalakua; they were married in the chapel
by Mr. Richards. A large audience attended: the ceremony was solemn, and would have honoured any land."
This is a most happy innovation on the former habits of
the people; it is the first Christian marriage ever known
among the chiefs, and the second ever solemnized at the
islands. Like the funeral of our late patroness, it will
stand as a precedent, which I doubt not all friendly to
the Mission will readily acknowledge, and be anxious to
imitate.
Polygamy is an evil that will probably be among the
last eradicated from the nation; but whatever has the
least tendency towards its abolition, is desirable and
gratifying. Had Hoapiri followed the ordinary custom on
such occasions, immediately after the burial of Keopuolani, or even before, he would have taken one, two, or




VISIT OF MR. AND MRS. THURSTON. 173


more wives, without any form or ceremony; and, in fact,
she was scarce deposited in her tomb, before there were
five candidates for his hand, from among the highest
females in the nation, he being one of the most wealthy
and respectable of the chiefs. But he at once declared,
that he designed to follow the practice among Christians,
of deferring his marriage for some time, and then taking
one wife only, being married to her publicly in the house
of God. This was also the wish of Karaimoku, which
of course was earnestly recommended by the Mission,
and has happily been accomplished. Both parties were
fully instructed, by Mr. Richards, in the reciprocal obligations of the marriage contract, as understood and entered
into by the members of Christian churches. Thus, my
dear M —, are we enabled to take courage in our labour
of enlightening and christianizing this people; hoping for
a bright day of glory, and rejoicing even in this, " the day
of small things."
Six or eight ships have touched here for refreshments,
and two yet remain. Many of the officers and men were
kind in their attentions to the Mission family; and some
of them appeared to be of the number who love and serve
God. It is a joy indeed, to meet, in this land of pollution and sin, those who exhibit the light, the purity, the
blessedness of the Christian character. 0 that every
wanderer " o'er the mountain wave," and every " dweller
on the deep," might speedily become a light and a blessing
to the dark places of the earth.
M7onday, Jov. 30. Mr. and Mrs. Thurston remained
with us one week, and then left us in fine spirits, to take
their station, and unfurl the banner of the cross on the
rocky shores of Hawaii. I admired the spirit with which
Mrs. Thurston, after bidding us farewell, sprang into a
rude canoe with her two children; and I watched them
with a glass with lively interest, as they were paddled
through the breakers to the open sea. No preparation
appearing to have been made on board the brig, to hoist
her on deck in a chair, which is usually done; she intrepidly mounted the ship's quarter by the manropes, and
stood ready to wave us a distant farewell, before many
~          15*l




174


COUNCIL OF THE CHIEFS.


others of the same refinement could have determined even
to attempt ascending to the quarter-deck as she had done.
A few days afterwards, the brig Arab, Capt. Meek, oi
Boston, from Oahu, paid us a visit of a day, and then
passed on to Kairua, where the king had gone in the
Princess Mary, an English whale ship. The Arab returned in about a week, bringing RihoRiho and his train,
when it first began to be stated that he would speedily
em    rfor Great Britian. In a few days a grand council
of the chiefs was called at this place on the subject; when
we had the pleasure of again entertaining our beloved
friends Messrs. Bingham and Ellis, who had been requested by the heads of government to attend the meeting,
and who arrived in the whale ship L'Aigle.
It was soon determined, that the king should embark
for England in the L'Aigle, Capt. Starbuck. Kamehamaru, governor Boki, and Liliha his wife, Kapihe and
Kekuanaoa, are to accompany him, with Manuia his steward, and a few male servants.
The whole body of chiefs, together with the king, was
most earnest in their desires for Mr. Ellis and his family
to accompany the party, offered a large sum for his passage
-at one time, even made his going a sine qua non; and
determined, in case Captain Starbuck would not accommodate him, that the king's barge should be fitted up for the
expedition. Mr. Ellis himself was desirous of going,
principally on account of the very critical state of the
health of Mrs. Ellis; but Captain Starbuck stating that
he could not possibly take him, the king and chiefs were
obliged to assent to his remaining. We all regretted this,
for we wished the king to have had the benefit, during his
absence, of so wise and in every respect competent a
counsellor; but most especially from a regard to the welfare and happiness of Mrs. Ellis and her family. We fear
she cannot long survive, without some change of the kind;
and desired that after eight years of Missionary toil and
suffering she might be restored to the bosom of her
country and her friends; though the loss of Mr. Ellis's
services at this time would be most sensibly felt by the
Mission in all its branches.
The king embarked from this place on board the L'Aigle




DEPARTURE OF THE KING.


175


on the 18th instant: at the time, and for two days before,
we were almost stunned with salutes from the squadron at
anchor before our door. He left us with no inconsiderable
display of the "pomp and circumstance" of royal embarkation: signals for sailing were made from the L'Aigle
early in the day, in which she was followed by alllihe vessels, ten or a dozen in number-excepting the American
brigs Arab and Owhyhee, and one or two small schooners
-but all waited till the L'Aigle should lead theway,
which was not till near sunset. As soon as she had well
cleared her moorings, the whole squadron was in motion,
and, with a fine breeze, "filled away" beautifully, amidst
columns of smoke and fire, and a roar of cannon, that the
waters and mountains of Maui probably never before
heard.
We have just learned that the king left Oahu on
Thursday last, the 27th. We are happy that he has
actually undertaken the visit, and believe it cannot fail of
benefiting himself and nation.  We think the party a
good specimen of the chiefs; Boki is an amiable man,
though far inferior in talent and character to his brother
Karaimoku; and Kamehamaru, one of the most noble and
interesting of the nation.
CHAPTER X.
NATIVE HOUSES.
Mission House, Lahaina, Dec. 3, 1823. We have
for some time past been favoured with the society of Dr.
nd Mrs. Blatchely. They occupy a new house in our
enclosure; and were exposed to a serious accident last
night, by the momentary touch of a candle against the
thatch of the house, in passing through the door. The
flame spread rapidly; but, by prompt exertions, was happily extinguished.
The greatest danger to which we feel ourselves exposed
is from casualties of this kind. It seldom rains at Lahaina, and, in a short time after erecting a house, the




176


NATIVE HOUSES.


grass thatch becomes perfect tinder; and, in case of tire,
unless suppressed at the instant it commences, the loss of
the building, and of every thing it contains, is inevitable.
The rapidity cf the flames scarcely admits the rescue of
life, much less of property.
Native dwellings are objectionable in many respects.
The wind, dust, and rain find ready access to ours in every
part; and not only put us to great inconvenience, but
of teX eatlf endanger our health. The leaves of the sugar cane with which they are lined, and the grass and mats
forming the floors, are secure and appropriate harbours
for the mice, fleas, cockroaches, and liza-rds which infest
this land, and by which we are greatly annoyed. But,
were the buildings ever so comfortable for the time being,
their frailty would be an objection: the thatch must be
frequently repaired, and the whole house entirely rebuilt
every third or fourth yearo
We are at a loss to determine what the materials of our
permanent dwelling shall be. If constructed of wood,
every part must come from America, the islands affording
no timber for house-building, that is accessible, or to be
obtained for a reasonable price. If of stone, the lime and
lumber necessary to finish them must be procured in the
same distant country; for the expense of burning lime
here, would be greater than the cost of it in America, and
its freight to the islands.
Dec. 6. Two days ago we had the happiness of receiving Mr. Ely and Mr. Whitney to our habitations. Mr.
Ely returned to Oahu again to-day: and was accompanied
by Dr. and Mrs. Blatchely. They sailed in the Arab,
Captain Meek, to whom we have been indebted for much
politeness.
Dec. 15. Immediately after the last date, I was seized
with a violent illness, from which I am now but just recovering. Mrs. Richards also suffered an alarming attack;
and B- was at the same time confined to her bed. Our
situation required the unremitted attentions, night and day,
for near a week, both of Mr. Richards and H —, on
whom the care of Mrs. Richards' infant, as well as that of
C-, necessarily devolved. Mr. Richards was obliged
to be physician as well as nurse; and spent many anxious




WANT OF A PHYSICIAN.


177


hours in searching medical authorities, while alarming
symptoms called for immediate relief.
We have deeply felt the importance of anadditional physician to the Missionary establishment at the islands. One
physician cannot possibly meet the necessities of families
so widely dispersed as we are. The extreme stations are
more than four hundred miles apart; and in any ease of
emergency, it would be impracticable to secure at one of
these, the services of a practitioner who might be at the
other.
But the want of a physician is not at such times the only
cause of anxiety and distress-is not all that makes the
difference between a chamber of sickness in a heathen
land, and in the habitations of our fathers. Our nearest
friends, instead of hanging on our pillows with kind and
assiduous attention, are obliged to exhaust themselves in
the lowest drudgery, without an assistant to share even the
hardest of their labour. No kind friend calls, to sympathise with us in our sufferings, or to relieve, during the
watches of the night, those who are overcome by the fatigues of the day. Our establishment affords few of the
articles which at home are considered indispensable to the
comfort of a sick room; and, when the violence of disease
is removed, we have no delicacy to tempt the fastidious
appetite of an invalid, or cordial to revive the drooping
spirits of the languid and the faint.
We mention these facts, not to complain of the privations of which we are sensible; for through the grace of
God we do sincerely esteem them the " light afflictions"
that deserve not to be named, in comparison with the everlasting benefits we trust we are securing to the heathen;
but only to exhibit to you the various and true shades of
Missionary life.
Dec. 17. Mr. Whitney, who returned to us on the 14th
instant, from a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Thurston, sailed
again this evening for Oahu.
Dec. 27. On the evening of the day on which Mr.
Whitney arrived at Oahu from Taui, a trunk, containing
his clothes and papers, was stolen from the hall of the Mission House. No knowledge of the thief was obtained,
till within a day or two; though suspicion rested on the




178


PUNISHMENT OF THEFT.


attendants of some of the chiefs, who were at the house
in the dusk of tile evening. This morning a messenger
from Kaikioeva, the guardian of the prince, came before
sunrise to inform me, that Mr. Whitney's trunk had been
found in the possession of a follower of the young chief,
and to request me to be present at the examination of it,
previous to its being delivered to the care of the Mission.
On ray arrival at the establishment of the chief, the trunk
was produced, and as much of its former contents as could
be found, replaced. It was then formally given up, in the
presence of a large assembly of the people, of the prince
and his guardian, including all their personal attendants,
male and female; while the culprit was. with judicial solemnity, publicly reproved by Kaikioeva, and punished by
dismissal from the service of Klauikeaouli.
In the course of the investigation, it was ascertained
that the kahut, nurse, or chief personal attendant, of the
prince, was accessary to the theft. He was immediately
called, and ordered to bring forward the personal effects of
the chief, of which he had the care, for inspection, preparatory to his dismissal from his situation. In the course
of the morning, the clothes, furniture, books, &c. in his
possession were examined, and after an inventory of them
had been taken, in the presence of all the high chiefs, they
were delivered, as insignia of the office, to another petty
chief; while the former kahu was disgraced by a public
expulsion from the household of the lad.
We were much gratified with the manliness and resolution of the prince on this occasion. He is only nine years
old, was strongly attached to his kahu, having been carried
in his arms from his birth, and wept much when parting
with him; still he said he must go, or by and by it would
be thought that he himself was heva, guilty, and that if he
kept thieves in his train, it would be said he had ordered
them to steal.
This is the most decisive measure ever taken by a chief,
for the suppression of theft; and will, doubtless, produce
a happy effect. Formerly, the chiefs themselves were
greatly addicted to this crime; but, finding it disgraceful
in the eyes of foreigners, left the commission of it to their
attendants; most of them, it is said, have, till lately, taken




PREVALENCE OF THEFT.


179


with them in all their visits, persons expressly for the purpose. Not long before our arrival, one of the Missionaries suffered so much from the depredations of a high female chief, in the habit of visiting his family, that he openly
turned both her and her husband from his house.
The islanders are exceedingly expert in the achievement
of theft.  Not many weeks since, a chief of rank, with
two or three servants, called for a few moments at our establishment. The attendants remained about the door,
while their master entered the house.  On a clothes line,
in open view, three or four French silk handkerchiefs of
very peculiar pattern and colours were hanging; although
all the doors and windows were open, and some of the
Mission family in sight the whole time, on the departure of
the company, one of the handkerchiefs was missing. We
could however scarce suspect them; for it seenred impossible that any one of their number, in the short time of the
call, and under such circumstances of exposure, could be
guilty; but not long afterwards an islander, who had been
within a short time at the residence of the chief, on another island, seeing me with an article of the same kind,
exclaimed in admiration of the colours, " 0, that is a very
handsome handkerchief-just such a one as our chief
wears."
We are constantly losing, in this manner, articles of
greater or less value; in two or three instances, clothes to
a very considerable amount have been taken from trunks,
the locks of which are broken while the persons have been
sitting upon them, and apparently deeply interested in conversation with some of the family. In these instances,
however, they were dressed in large kiheis, which gave
concealment to their movements, and afforded a cover for
the booty in their retreat.
The remedy of the evil is with the chiefs; if they really
discountenance this vice, which we believe many now do,
and punish it, when detected, with promptness and determination, as in the present instance, stealing will soon be
unpopular.
Sabbath, Jan. 4, 1824. The services of the chapel today have been distinguished by the baptism of the infant
son of Mr. and Mrs. Richards, and by the administration




180          VISIT TO THE CHIEFS.
of the Lord's supper. The day has been one of peace and
blessedness; and the language of our hearts that of the
Psalmist —" We will give thanks to thee, O Lord, among
the heathen, and will sing praises unto thy holy name."
Jan. 7. Our customary visits to the chiefs this morning
were more than usually pleasant. WVe found them at their
several establishments intently occupied in their studies,
and uncommonly solicitous for instruction. We were
particularly gratified with the appearance of our friends,
Kaikioeva, the guardian of the young prince, and his wife
Kea-weamahi.   The former was reclining on a neat
Chinese sofa, earnestly engaged with the few pages yet
printed in the native tongue, and the latter seated at a very
handsome cabinet with book-case top, writing a letter.
Besides these two pieces of furniture, which would be
neat and ornamental in any common parlour, there was
another sofa in the room, a very large mahogany dining
table, two circular tables of the same material, with an
elegant escritoir on each, a handsome card table and
dressing case, and a large and expensive mirror. The
whole house exhibited a degree of neatness, comfort, and
convenience, not often found in the dwellings even of the
highest chiefs, and excited a pleasing hope of seeing still
greater improvements in the externals of social and domestic enjoyment.
They were both clothed in loose dresses made in the
European fashion; and in their persons, more than in the
furniture of their apartment, presented a strong contrast
to the appearance they made but a year or two since, when
seen only in unblushing nakedness; and when they knew
no higher subjects of thought or occupation, than to " eat,
drink, and be merry.",  These two are among the most amiable of our friends.
Their deportment is at all times modest, dignified, and
interesting; and their whole character, so far as we can
gain the knowledge of it, so consistent with Christian
propriety and purity, that in our intercourse with them we
almost forget that they have been heathen. They are
assiduous in their attention to every means of instruction
-are never absent from the services of the chapel-and
not unfrequently are seen bathed in tears, under the




EXEMPLARY PIETY OF PUAlTI.


181


preaching of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. May they be
found among the first fruits of Hawaii;!
Friday, Jan. 9. While at tea this evening we heard a 
herald passing through the district-the manner in which
all the general orders of the king and chiefs are communicated to their vassals-making a proclamation to the
people. On inquiring of the native boys in our yard, we
learned that the object of it was to inform the people that
the next day but one would be the Sabbath, and to command them to have all their food prepared on the morrow,
and not to break the commandment of God, by working
on the " la tabu," sacred day. Heralds have very frequently been sent out on a Saturday evening, to give
intelligence of the approach of the Sabbath, and to command its observance; but this is the first time we have
heard it notified so seasonably, as to take all excuse from
those who disregard it.
Jan. 12. There is, perhaps, no one in the nation, who
has given more uninterrupted and decisive proofs of a
saving knowledge of the truth as it is in Jesus, than Puaiti,
a poor blind man. No one has manifested more childlike
simplicity and meekness of heart-no one appeared more
uniformly humble, devout, pure, and upright.
As a singer, he formerly occupied in the retinue of a
high chief, the place of " the blind bard;" in the baronial
hall. When " the setters forth of strange gods" arrived,
and began to preach in the language of the country, he
requested to be led to the chapel; and ever after, with the
return of the Sabbath, groped his way to the house of
God. lie soon became deeply interested in the glad
tidings which proclaimed sight to the blind-relinquished
his situation as musician-and from the most indefatigable
inquiry and attention, quickly made himself so familiarly
acquainted with the outline of Christian belief and practice, as to become an instructor and chaplain to others.
Only a few weeks before the Thames reached the islands,
Keoua, governor of Lahaina, then on a visit at Oahu,
appointed him his private chaplain, and brought him to
Maui with him in that capacity. He was the first to welcome us on our unexpected arrival here, as we stepped
upon the beach; and testified his joy by the most cordial
16




182      EXEMPLARY PIETY OF PUAITI,
shaking of our hands, and bursting afresh every few
minutes into the exclamation —" aroha roa no!"-" aroha ino roa!" —" great indeed-very great is my love."
He is always at the house of God, and there ever at
the preacher's feet. If he happens to be approaching our
habitations at the time of family worship, which has been
very frequently the case, the first note of praise or word
of prayer, that meets his ear, produces an immediate and
most observable change in his whole aspect. An expression of deep devotion at once overspreads his sightless
countenance, while he hastens to prostrate himself in
some corner in an attitude of reverence. Indeed so
peculiar has the expression of his countenance sometimes
been, both in public and domestic worship-especially
when he has been joining in a hymn in his own language
to the praise of the only true God and Saviour-an expression so indicative of peace and elevated enjoyment,
that tears have involuntarily started in our eyes at the persuasion that, ignorant and degraded as he once had been,
he was then offeringi the sacrifice of a contrite heart, and
was experiencing a rich foretaste of that joy, which in the
world to come shall terminate in "i pleasures for evermore."
Puaiti was the first convert of the Mission I ever heard
pray. The accompanying circumstances were peculiarly
interesting, and conduced to the deep impression made by
it on my mind. Mr. Richards and myself, having discovered that there were a number of natives in our vicinity,
called by their fellows, the "poe puele," —" praying people,"
from a habit of secret prayer, as well as an attendance on
the exercises of social and public worship, sought them
out, and assembled them to the number of twelve or
fifteen, for the purpose of inquiring into their state of
mind and feelings, upon the subject of Christianity; and
of instructing and encouraging them in the belief and
practices of religion.
Our object will be best understood, by a specimen of
the kind of questions put to them, and the answers given
in a particular case. Of an interesting young man, Mr.
Richards asked —" When did you first hear the word of
God?"-" At the time Mr. Ellis first preached on his
arrival from the Society Islands."  "What did you think




THE BLIND MAN.


186


of what you heard?"-" I had no thought about it."
"What were your thoughts of it, when you first had
them?"-" They were evil only. I did not like the law
of God, for my heart was set on every wicked thing. I
loved every sin, and was wicked in all my ways." "When
did you begin to think more favourably of the true religion?"-" When I came to Lahaina to live, after the king
had sailed for England;" stating in addition, that it was
by coming to the chapel that he began to love the word of
God; that now his love for it was very great; that he
hated all his former ways, and loved every thing that was
good; and concluded by saying-" Great is my compassion for the dark hearts, that have been kindling a fire
to the devil, (some of the people had recently been sacrificing to their former gods by the burning of animals, &c.
&c.); and strong is my prayer, that God may forgive
them their sin, and enlighten them by his spirit."
In the statements of many others, there was a simplicity of language and manner, and an artlessness and sincerity that affected the hearts of all present. The countenance and gestures of some spoke even more for them
than their words; and, of a majority of the number, we
were led to entertain very favourable hopes.
At the conclusion of the meeting, we called upon our
blind friend to address the throne of grace. The request
was unexpected to him: but in a ready compliance, he
evinced a pathos of feeling, a fervency of spirit, a fluency
and propriety of diction, and above all a humility of soul,
that plainly told he was no stran.er there. His bending
posture, his clasped hands, his elevated though sightless
countenance, the peculiar emphasis,vith which he uttered
the exclamation " O0 Jehovah!" his tenderness, his importunity, made us feel that he was praying to a God not
afar off, but to one who was nigh, even in the midst of us.
It was a prayer not to be forgotten: it touched our inmost
souls, and we believe would have touched the soul of aay
one hearing it, not a stranger to the meltings of a pious
spirit.
One such hour, one such testimony to the efficacy of
the truth, in turning " from darkness to light and from the
power of satan unto God," repays us tenfold for all our




184


CRUELTY TO LUNATICS.


sacrifices, and makes us more than willing perseveringly
to endure the toil, the privation, the care-the hundred
known and unknown trials, that sap the spirits and the
constitution of a missionary in a pagan land. At such
times, could the continents and the oceans that separate
us from the sight of the people of God, be thrown into
the back ground for a moment, leaving these actors and
these scenes to speak for themselves, they would feel more
than compensated for all their liberality, and all their
exertions to have the glorious gospel of Christ preached
to the heathen: and giving thanks to God, would rejoice
in fresh efforts to evangelize the world. If the poor blind
Puaiti, is the only one of this nation, who has gained a
true and ready access to a throne of grace, by Him who
is "' the way, the truth, and the life;" and knows, from his
own blessed experience, the breathings of the spirit that
cries " Abba, Father," unto God; 0, at how cheap a
price has his immortal soul been enlightened unto everlasting life, through the instrumentality of the American
churches!
He is poor and despised in his person, small almost to
deformity, and in his countenance, from the loss of his
sight, far from prepossessing; still in our judgment he
bears on him " the image and superscription" of Christ.
If so, how striking an example of the truth of the apostle's
declaration: " God has chosen the foolish things of the
world, to confound the wise; and the weak things of the
world, to confound the things which are mighty; and base
things of the world, and things which are despised hath
God chosen, yea, things which are not, to bring to nought
things that are; that no flesh should glory in his presence."
Evening. Scarce a day passes on which we are not
most painfully reminded, that we dwell among the habitations of cruelty. We have been much grieved this evening, by seeing the attendants of the young prince stoning
A lunatic on the beach. It is the customary way of treating such objects throughout the islands, and the manner in
which they here usually terainate a wretched existence.
Kaikioeva sent a messenger to eprove then, and bid them
desist from their inhuman sport; not, however, till by the
barbarous practice the poor creature was much bruised
and lamed.




CRIME OF INFANTICIDE.             185
The afflicted and the deformed of every class are objects
of ridicule and contempt, if not, as in this case, of persecution. The helpless and dependent, whether from age or sickness, are often cast from the habitations of their relatives
and friends, to languish and to die, unattended and unpitied.
An instance recently came to our knowledge, in which a
poor wretch thus perished within sight of our dwelling,
after having lain uncovered for days and nights in the open
air, most of the time, pleading in vain to his family, still
within the hearing of his voice, for a drink of water? And
when he was dead, his body instead of being buried, was
merely drawn so far into the bushes, as to prevent the
offence that would have arisen from the corpse. and left a
prey to the dogs who prowl through the district in the night!
But the truth of the apostle's description of the heathen,
that they are " without natural affection, implacable, and
unmerciful," is found most fully here, in the prevalence of
the abhorrent and tremndous crime of infanticide. We
have the clearest proof, that in those parts of the islands
where the influence of the Mission has not yet extended,
two-thirds of the infants born, perish by the hands of their
own parents, before attaining the first or second year of
their age! 
The very periods, when the infant of a Christian mother, is to her the object of intense solicitude, and of the
deepest anxiety, in times of sickness, suffering, and distress, times at which the affections of the parental bosom
are brought into the most painful exercise, are those when
the mother, here, feels that in her child she has a care and
a trouble, which she will not endure: and instead of
searching into the causes of its sorrow, or attempting to
alleviate its pains, she stifles its cries for a moment with
her hand, hurries it into a grave already prepared for it, and
tramples to a level the earth under which the offspring of
her bosom is struggling in the agonies of death!-As I
see and hear, and learn all the abominations and cruelties of a heathen land, my soul often melts within me:
and I cannot but think, hobw little a majority of the inhabitants of Christian count ~ are aware of the extent of
their obligations to the Gospel, for many of the domestic
16*




l8         FECLIPSE OF THE MOOQN
and social blessings they prize most dearly. Happy indeed is the people whose God is the Lord!
The perpetration of this crime is by no means confined
to cases of sickness, or of deformity, or of distress: not
unfrequently, it is provoked by the simple necessity of
half an hour's additional labour a day, for the support of
the child, till it can seek its own living; and sometimes
merely because its helplessness would interfere, for a
period, with the freedom and pleasure of the mother! In
view of a crime so relentless, as to sink the guilty perpetrators of it below the nature of the brutes, and which
still forms but one of a fearful catalogue, —t am often led
to exclaim-" Oh? can there be for such, a redeeming
and enlightening power S  Can these ever be transformed
into beings of purity, of tenderness, and of love?" Lord,
thou knowest! Thou didst say, " Let there be light; and
there was light:" and Thou hast said, " As truly as I
live, all the earth shall be filled with the glory of the
Lord!" Thy power will yet make true thy word-The
isles have waited for thy law, and the abundance of the sea
shall yet be converted unto Thee!
Jan. 16. Last night there was a beautiful and almnist
total eclipse of the moon. We had just retired to rest.
when an alarm was given by the natives in our neighbourhood. Loud and lamentable wailings were heard in various directions, while the half-suppressed and plaintive
murrturings of those who, with hurried fbotsteps, passed to
and firo, gave indications of something new and melancholy. Hearing a voice in our yard, I inquired the cause
of the agitation; and was answered, that " the people
thoght the kin  w   ea, ca       e  oonas dead, because the  dark.
This was the first intimation we had of the eclipse; and
on looking out, at once saw the sublime, but innocent
cause of the alarm.
Considerable numbers had gathered round our fence,
and we heard nothing but the exclamations, ' na hina mai,
n ai nui,"-the moon is sick, very sick —" mahina pupuka
nb!"-an evil moon, evil inded! —" ua pa ka mahina i
ie akua" —the gods are eati gthe moon! uttered in tones
of deep anxiety and distress, All agreed in considering
it an omen of great calamity to the nation. The
i S~~




VISIT FROM MISSIONARIES.          187
king had died at sea, or would soon die; or the prince,
princess, one of the queens, or some member of the royal
family would soon die: for the moon had formerly appeared just so, before the death of several great chiefs!
A young Englishman, of considerable intelligence and
nautical information, residing with Karaimoku, told us this
morning, that he attempted to explain the cause of the
phenomenon to the chiefs. They seemed rather sceptical,
however, and, as an insurmountable objection to the truth
of the rotary motion of the earth, pointed to the opposite
island, and said, " The world cannot turn round, for Ranai is always exactly there!"
While we pitied their ignorance and superstition, we
could not but be amused by many of their ideas and expressions on the subject. The more enlightened, both
chiefs and people, have some correct impressions of the
matter, and have made great sport of the credulity of others,
calling them "' ka poe naau po'-the dark-hearted party.
The whole circumstance forcibly brought to mind, the appropriate and prophetic lines:They dread thy glittering tokens, Lord,
When signs in heaven appear,
But they shall learn thy holy word,
And love, as well as fear."
JM-onday, 19. At three o'clock yesterday morning, we
were roused from sleep by the voice of our friend Mr.
Ellis. On giving him admittance, we found him to be
accompanied by Mr. Chamberlain, and quickly learned
that they were only two of a party of thirteen from Honoruru, on their way to Hawaii, in the schooner Waterwitch, Mr. Hunnewell master, to occupy a new station at
Waiakea, in the district of lHido. Dr. and Mrs. Blatchely,
and Mr. and Mrs. Ruggles and children, landed immediately after; but the rest, Mr. and Mrs. Goodrich, Mr.
and Mrs. Ely and child, and Mr. Hunnewell, not till after
daybreak.
The knowledge you have of our establishment-its accommodations &c. &c. may excite some curiosity, as to
the manner in which we di harge the rites of hospitality,
on such occasions.  Fully aware, from our own experience, of the fatigue and exhaustion attendant on a voy



188     OBSERVANCE OF THiE r     BATH.
age of two or three days in a small and crowded schooner,
a first object in this case was to secure an opportunity of
rest and sleep to our friends. To do this it became necessary to relinquish our own beds, and spread them
anew for the females and children; while the gentlemen
formed couches upon our trunks and the floor: and thus
all were soon soundly asleep.
Another point of importance then presented itself, in the
refreshment of food that would be requisite, when they
should awake. The coming day was the Sabbath: our
dinner for that day, as had always been the case, was prepared the day previous, but consisted of a piece of salt
meat, and a small loaf of bread, sufficient only for ourselves, and, was entirely inadequate to the entertainment
of our guests. Mrs. Richards and B ---  were both too
unwell to leave their beds, and every arrangement of
course devolved upon H —.
After a few moments consultation, it was determined,
that though the case was one which would warrant a departure from our regulations in reference to cooking on
the Sabbath, still, rather than be under the necessity of
explaining the reasons to the natives for a deviation, whatever preparations were requisite, should be made immediately. I accordingly roused one or two of the boys
living with us, with orders to kindle a fire and kill a half
dozen ducks, which our yard very opportunely afforded;
and taking charge of master C — myself, left his mother
at liberty to repair to the kitchen.
This is a part of our establishment which I believe I
have omitted to describe. It consists of a few loose
stones, on one side of our enclosure, upon which a kettle
&c. is placed, over a fire kindled on the ground between
them'; and is covered with a thatch of cocoa-nut leaves
elevated eight or ten feet upon four poles. A principal article in its furniture, is a baking-pan without a handle-(a
sad defect in a land without blacksmiths or iron)-and
which consequently, can scarce be moved but at the risk
of burnt fingers. Notwithstanding this and other disadvantages, however, before the dawning of the day, three
successive pair of ducks were dressed and cooked,-an
adequate supply of potatoes and taro baked, and the whole




VIEW OF HAWAII.               189
enclosure restored to as much order and quietude, as if we
had been asleep the whole night.
The morning was one of the most delightful we have
known, fresh and rich in all the splendid tints of sunrise.
Ou admiration was especially excited by a full and distinct
view of Hawaii, which we had never seen before, since our
arrival at Lahaina. In general, the atmosphere is not sufficiently clear to enable us at a distance of eighty or a
hundred miles, to trace even the faintest outline of land;
but now, for an hour, while the sun was near the horizon,
we saw the broad mountains, rising in purpled majesty
from the deep, while the icy summit of Mounakea glittered
like a cluster of brilliants in the sky.
This unusual addition to the beauty of our scenery,
bringing five islands, besides Maui, into distinct view from
our door, connected with the arrival of our friends, and
more particularly with their immediate destination to that
island, bearing the richest of conceivable blessings to regions, which for ages unknown have been covered with the
thick darkness of paganism, gave rise to emotions of a most
pleasing and animating character.
The day, too, was uncommonly interesting.  An immense concourse of people, at the native meetings, gave
Mr. Ellis an opportunity to disseminate the word of life 
and our own worship could not but be enlivened and warmed by the presence of so many of our fellow-labourers.
" How good and how pleasant it is for brethren to dwell
together in unity!  It is like the dew of Hlermon, and as
the dew that descended upon the mountains of Zion: for
there the Lord comlandeth the blessing, even life for ever
more."
At nine o'clock this morning they re-embarked to pursue their voyage, not without having partaken, as we trust,
in the quickening influences with which the visit has been
accompanied to our own spirits. Our prayers follow them.
May they be permitted safely to arrive at their destination,
and triumphantly to unfurl the banner of the cross!
Ja. 24. The surf, for some days past, has been uncommonly heavy, affording a fine opportunity to the islanders for the enjoyment of their favourite sport of the surfboard. It is a daily amusement at all times; but the more




190          SPORTS OF THE SURF.
terrific the surf, the more delightful the pastime to those
skilful in the management of the board.
For this amusement, a plank of light wood, eight or tea
feet long, two feet broad, and three or four inches tht k in
the middle, decreasing to a sharp edge at the sides and
ends, which are rounded, and having the whole surface
finely polished, is necessary; and forms an article of personal property, among all the chiefs, male and female, and
among many of the common people.
With this plank under their arm, they leave the shore,
and wade or swim into the surf. On meeting a roller,
they dive under it with their board, to prevent being carred back by its power; and thus make their way beyond
the reef, to the smooth surface of the sea,-at Lahaina, a
quarter of a mile from the beach. They then wait the approach of a heavy wave, place themselves at full length
flat upon the board, with the face downward, and the head
and chest elevated above the forward end, headed for the
shore. In this attitude, they take the breaker, mount upon
its crest as it towers above the reef, and with the arms and
feet skilfully keep their poise in the swell, so as not to be
sufficiently forward to be overwhelmed by its combing, nor
so far behind as to lose its impetus; and are thus hurried,
with the velocity of a racer, on the rolling summit, their
erected heads only appearing above the foam, till they are
cast on the beach, or slip from the board, in time to escape
striking upon the sand.
They then make their way out again, and return in the
same manner.  Hundreds at a time have been occupied in
this way for hours together; while the waves are breaking
on the reef, apparently twenty and thirty feet high. Riding
upon the surf, in a canoe, in a similar manner, is also a
common and favourite amusement.
Another pastime of the natives, where a spot of ground
adapted to it can be found, is the tropical counterpart of a
winter sport of boys in our own country, that of sliding
down hill on a sled.
The smooth sward of a suitable declivity is made to answer, in a good degree, the advantages of ice and snow,
for this purpose; and throwing themselves forcibly, at the
proper place, in the manner of the boys in America, upon




DEMAND FOR BOOKS.


191


a long narrow sledge, having light and highly polished
runners, with their breasts pressing on the forepart, they
often succeed in making a descent ot one or two hundred
yards at a single slide.
Jan. 31. For the last fortnight there has been an unusual and increasing demand for books in the native language. We distributed fifty this morning, before breakfast; and since then, three times that number have been
called for. But our stock is entirely exhausted, and we
have been compelled to send away hundreds of persons,
with the promise of a supply as soon as a new edition
shall be printed. Some new excitement in favour of the
palapala, appears to have been prodtu ed on the minds of
the chiefs and their attendants; and thoulgh we are ignorant of any particular reason for it, we trust the first cause
is, the power of Him, in whose hands are the hearts of all
men.
Feb. 2. Immediately after breakfast we made our customary visit to the chiefs, and found them, with one exception, busily engaged in their studies. ' he queens and
princess were writing at their desks, and their favourites
and attendants, seated on the mats around them, were
equally engaged with their slates and speliing books. The
chiefs have lately, for the first time, manifiested a special
desire to have their immediate followers instructed. Indeed, till within a few weeks, they have themselves claimed the exclusive benefit of owr instructions.  But now,
they expressly declare their intentions to have all their
subjects enlightened by the palapa/a, and have accordingly
made application for books to distribute amolng them.
In consequence of this spirit, we have to-day been permitted to establish a large and regular school among their
domestics and dependents. We have always had several
scholars at the establishments of different chiefs, amounting in the whole perhaps to fifty individuals, under regular
tuition; and Mrs. Richards, t —, and B-, besides
instructing the boys in our families in their own language,
have daily taught a few persons in English at our houses.
But we have never till to-day had a regular systematic
school, except with the chiefs, and the special favourites in
their respective trains. The school formed, was entirely




192


DOMESTIC IMPROVEMENTS.


from the household of the young prince; and was held in
a neat and spacious house prepared by him for the pur.
pose. The names of twenty-five boys and young men
were entered as scholars. The young chief himself presided as head of the school, under our superintendence.
Feb. 6. Yesterday afternoon our whole family walked
half a mile south of' the Mission House, to visit our
friends Kaikioeva and Keaweamahi, who have taken possession of a new establishment in that part of the settlement; and to call on Auwae, a chief lately arrived at Lahaina from the windward part of the island. The inland
walk to their plantations is the most pleasant in the district, passing, shortly after leaving the beach, through a large
and beautiful grove of the cocoa-nut, and then through a succession of plantations, so thickly covered with bread-fruit
trees, interspersed with a great variety of luxuriant vegetables, as to appear a continued and well-planted garden.
We have seen nothing, in the domestic improvement of
the natives, that has pleased us so much as in this visit.
Both chiefs have many acres enclosed, which is not common: Kaikioeva's, by a high mud wall; and Auwae's,
by a neat and substantial fence of sticks. T'he entrance
to each is by a painted cottage gate. Their houses are
larger and better built than those of most of the chiefs;
indeed, we have seen none, but that of the king at Honoruru, that can compare with them, either in the excellence
of the materials, or in the neatness of the construction.
We were also particularly pleased with the accommodations
for their servants and people. These, instead of having
a part of the chief's house, which is not uncommon, or of
having rude and dirty booths immediately about the doors,
still more frequently the case, have neat but small houses,
not more than six feet by four on the ground, and about
four feet high, built regularly along the walls and fences.
There are not less than a dozen such in Auwae's yard,
which peeping from under the thick foliage of the kou
trees in the enclosure, add greatly to the beauty of the
scene.
Keaweamahi is equally engaged in making improvements in her department; and we found her with an interesting group of female attendants, busily occupied in




INCREASE OF SCHOOLS.            198
preparing a superb satin counterpane for the frame, which
an American carpenter, in the employment of her husband,
had made for her. Being, however, entirely ignorant of
the manner in which it should be done, she was well
pleased to have the ladies give her a half hour's assistance.
This evening Auwae and wife returned our call. They
came in while we were at the tea-table, but could not be
prevailed on to join us. WIe could not but be amused at
the evident reason-the poverty of our board in their
eyes. A plate of toast, with a little force-meat, were the
only articles besides the tea-service on the table, which,
for half a dozen persons, when compared with the variety
and quantity of food placed four times a day before the
family of a chief, appeared to them a most scanty repast.
They said but little while they remained, but in exclamations of sympathy at what they conceived to be our unavoidable hunger: " Jlroha ino ia oukou," —( great is our
compassion for you,"-burst repeatedly from their lips;
and they hastened their return, to send us some fish and
potatoes immediately.
Feb. 7. The favourable auspices in reference to the
schools, mentioned at the commencement of the week,
have since greatly increased; and we have the happiness
of stating, that, in addition to the school of the young
prince, each of the chiefs now has one similar, under his
special superintendence.  The number of schools thus 
formed is ten, including in the whole nearly one hundred
and fifty scholars. Applications have been made for the
institution of several more, and we soon expect to have at
least five hundred persons under regular tuition in this
district.
The brig Neo came to an anchor this morning from
Hawaii. The commander brought a present of oranges
and a letter to 1 — from our friend Kapiolani, the wife
of Naihi. She earnestly entreats that books and slates
may be sent to her people at Kearakekua, of which Naihi
is hereditary chief, where she has lately returned, after an
absence of two or three years at Oahu. Having herself
been greatly benefited and enlightened by the instructions
of the Missionaries, she says she has great sorrow in her
17




PLEASING ANTICIPATIONS.


heart for the ignorance of her people at Hawaii; for they
are —" JVui roa naau po" —" very dark-minded."
Feb. 9. Mr. and Mrs. Richards, in company with
Karaimoku, sailed in the brig Ainoa this evening, for a
short visit to Oahu.
Feb. 11. A delightful. evening; one of the very few
that are here marked with the higher splendours of sunset.
The west is filled with rich and brilliant tints, the reflections of which give a softened beauty to the rugged heights
of Ranai and Morokai, while they cover the bolder mountains of Maui with purple, and line the crimson clouds,
that overhang them, with the deepest shades of amber and
gold. Every object was so uncommonly lovely, that on
my way to evening prayers, I involuntarily stopt, to give
utterance to the emotions of admiration I felt at the beauty
and serenity of land, and ocean, and sky.
The naaives themselves seemed to partake in the quietude and peacefulness of the scene, and instead of finding
them, as is usually the case at this time of the day, sporting in the surf or singing and dancing on the beach, they
were seated in numerous groups, studying, conversing, or
musing in silence. Two schools within a short distance
of each other, each containing twenty or thirty scholars,
were reciting to native teachers, while their respective
chiefs, seated in large chairs, were presiding over the
exercises.  The monotonous sound of another, within
~ the fort, was distinctly heard; while the distant hum of a
fourth came across the water of a large fishpond, immediately in the rear of it. With such objects and sounds in
full view and hearing, the transition of thought from the
natural to the moral state of things, was easy, and almost
unavoidable; and I never recollect having felt more calm
and sober joy in the contemplation of my character as a
Missionary to the heathen, than at that moment. In anticipation of what, we hope, the intellectual and spiritual
condition of this people, at no very distant period, will be,
I could scarce avoid exclaiming, " Lo! the winter is
past; the rain is over and gone: the flowers appear on
the earth; the time of the singing of birds is come!"
Sabbath,::eb. 22. The most interesting circumstance
of the day, is an application for baptism from Kaikioeva




ENCOURAGEMENTS.


195


and wife, from another chief and wife, Toteta, a Tahitian
in the family of our patron Hoapiri, and from our friend
the blind man, or Bartimeus, as he is sometimes called by
us.  T'his is the more notable, from the fart, that there is,
and has been, no external circumstance that could operate
as an undue excitement to any thing of the kind. Every
thing in the characters of these persons, as far as we can
ascertain, sanctions the hope, that, through the knowledge
of the truth as it is in Jesus, they have been turned from
darkness to light, and fromn the power of Satan unto God;
and are proper subjects for the administration of the
ordinance, the benefits of which they are desirous of receiving.
Such hopes, and such causes for high expectation, from
this people, give sweetness to the Missionary life. The
number of those, of whose saving conversion from sin to
holiness we entertain even the faintest hope, is small indeed; but in the midst of a generation i" filled with all
wickedness," though few, they are conspicuous and lovely.
It is a glorious consolation to us in these "' ends of the
earth," to know, that, had we not forsaken things most
dear, to bear the lamp of eternal truth in ths darkness,
these very individuals, now so indescribably interesting,
would still have been groping in the thickest shades of
spiritual death, and stumbling on the dark mountains of
sin. What cannot the word of God perform on them in
whom it "' worketh effectuall'!i!" How changed are these! 
Unto them the Gospel has been preached, and Iby it they
have been transformed into new creatures; have become
gentle, temperate, industrious, modest, chaste, sober, devout-yes, even devout and holy. Such. at least, in our
eyes they appear, and such we fully believe them to be.
Feb. 28. In returning from a walk before breakfast
this morning, I witnessed, for the first time, a rite of
sorcery. My attention was attracted by a collection of
persons near the path along which I was passing. On approaching them, I saw in the midst a small mat covered
with several thicknesses of tapa or native cloth, on the top
of which were placed two very large leaves, of a plant called
by the natives api-(arum costalum.)  These seemed to
have been prepared for the occasion with much care, each




196


A SORCERER.


being nicely divided through the stem, half the length of
the leaf, and one placed exactly over the other. They
were firmly held by a man kneeling at one end of the mat,
while the sorcerer kneeling at the other, and holding two
of the divided stems in each hand, muttered his prayers
over them. A few of the persons present, besides those
immediately engaged in the ceremonies, were solemnly
and intently occupied in the subject before them; but the
greater number seemed disposed to make sport of it, and
turned to me with the exclamations, " mino, upuka, debelo"
-' wicked, foolish, devilish."
On inquiring what was meant by it, they answered, that
some one had stolen the tobacco-pipe of the man holding
the leaves, and that the sorcerer was discovering the
thief, and praying him to death. When reproved for
their superstition and wickedness, they became evidently
confused, and some unlucky movement of the leaves
being made, the principal performer said the effect was
destroyed, and ceased praying, apparently in a fit of vexation.
There is no superstition perhaps more general and
deep-rooted in the minds of this people, than the belief
that certain persons have the power, by prayers and incantations, to destroy the lives of others; and many,
doubtless, have become victims to their credence in this
device of darkness. A person who has fallen under the
displeasure of one of these "' kanaka anana," or sorcerers,
is told that his power is exercised over him, and that he
will die. He himself believes in the efficacy of that power
-thinks perhaps that he has known many instances of it.
Anxiety is awakened; his mind becomes filled with pictures of death; he cannot sleep; his spirits sink; his
appetite fails; and the effects of his imaginary fears
become the real causes of the evil he deprecates. Finding his health and strength affected by these natural but
unperceived causes, he considers his fate inevitable; refuses all nourishment, as unnecessary and unavailing;
pines, languishes, and dies beneath the influences of his
own ignorance and superstition. The less enlightened
of the people think no one dies a natural death, and resolve every instance of mortality into the effects of this




EFFECTS OF SORCERY.


197


pule arana, prayer of sorcery, some other incantation of a
similar kind, or into the equally insidious influence of
secret poison.
Of the power of this, superstition we had a proof in a
native of our own household. A thief was put to flight
from our yard one day while we were at dinner; this lad
joined in the chase, and seized the culprit, but lost his hold
by the tearing of his kihei, or outer garment. The thief
was greatly exasperated; and immediately engaged a sorcerer to pray the boy to death.
Information of this reached the lad in the course of the
afternoon; and we soon perceived him to be troubled by
the intelligence, though he attempted with us to ridicule
the superstition.
The next morning he did not make his appearance with
the other boys: and upon inquiry from them, they said he
was sick. We asked the nature of his sickness; to which
they replied-" mai no i ka pule anana paha"-that he
" was sick from the prayer of sorcery perhaps."  We
found him lying in one corner of his house, pale with fear,
and trembling like an aspen leaf, and discovered that he
had not slept during the night: we were satisfied that the
whole arose from terror; and compelled him, notwithstanding his declarations that he was too sick, to come from
his retreat-diverted his mind-set him at work-and beibre noon he was as flll of life and spirits as ever-laughed
at his fears, and began to defy the power of the pule aanna!
'he whole race are subject, from ignorance and super*::
stition, to a bondage of terror. Not only do the eclipse
and the earthquake-the burstings of a thunderbolt, and
the eruptions of a volcano-fill them with apprehension
and dismay; but to them, the darkness of the night is the
covert of demons going about, "seeking whom they may
devour;" and the least unusual sound that breaks upon its
silence, is interpreted into the prowlings of spirits ready to
destroy.
As the wind has sighed through the tops of the cocoanut tree in the silence of the night, or the sounds of the
surf, breaking on the reef, have bellowed along the shore,
I have seen fears gathering on the faces of the natives of
our household, while with troubled and inquisitive look.
17*




RECOLLECTIONf4 OF HOME.


and half suppressed breath, they have exclaimed, "' He
akua!-tle akua aore maitai!"-"' a god-an evil god!"
-and the simple and plaintive notes of an Eolian harp,
fixed in a window of the Mission House at Oahu, had such
an effect on the mind of an islander belonging to the establishment-although the cause of the sounds had been
explained to him-that it was necessary to remove the instrument, because he could not sleep!
CHAPTER XI.
RECOLJECTIONS OF HOn3E.
JM}ission House, Lahaina, NJlarch 1, 1824. There has
not been a period, my dear M ---, since H - and myself left America, when the privilege of writing to those we
love-of making known to them the particulars of our
situation, and of imparting the thoughts and feelings of our
hearts-has appeared more precious than the present,
when, from the absence of Mr. and Mrs. Richards, at Oahu,
we are left entirely alone on one of the specks of desolation that constitute this solitary group. The want of all
society, except that of our own little family, predisposes in
an unusual degree to frequent recollections of home: and
we have never perhaps thought more, spoken more, and
felt more, concerning yourself and timily, and the many
other objects of our warm remembrance, than at the passing time.
The weather, too, to-day, is of a character to recall to
our minds scenes in which we have often had a part, when
a gloomy sky and driving storm have shut us within the
walls of our houses; and by interrupting the ordinary engagements without doors, have made us, in an especial
manner, dependent on the family circle and fireside, for
our pleasure and amusement. Indeed, the present aspect
of every thing without, is one principal reason why I have
taken up my pen; it is so totally different from all we have
witnessed, except in one or two instances, since we arrived
at the Islands, that it is more worthy of notice than any
thing that is just now taking place.
Instead of my own language, however, I will make use




TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER.


199


of a few lines from a " Sea Sketch," which occurs to my
mind.   They are highly descriptive of the actual state of
things around us, and will convey, I think, a correct and
lively image of the scene,-"   Dark and portentous clouds o'erhang the sea,
While here and there upon the surgy tide,
With bellied sails, the vessels-dim descriedAgainst the opposing blast toil heavily;
On sullen wing, the sea-gull wheels away
To loftiest rock, beyond the utmost swell
Of billow, lashing high its dizzy spray;
The wild waves curl their bleak and foamy heads —
Tumultuous murmurs through the ocean caves
Ring dismal: while the gloomy tempest spreads
Athwart the joyless deep; the showers down pour,
Toss the rough main,, and drench the sandy shore."
We have before us the reality of every image here presented; and none in more conspicuous and beautiful
exhibition, than "the vessel" on the " surgy tide," with
"bellied sails," against the "opposing blast."  The young
prince is slightly indisposed, and, notwithstanding the violence of the storm, a schooner has been despatched for
the chiefs at Oahu, and is plunging her way through the
channel under a press of sail that buries her almost in
every wave she meets.
Jlonday, UJarch S.   Mr. and Mrs. Richards returned
from Oahu, in the lhaaheo o Hawaii, on Saturday morning.
Mr. and Mrs. Bishop came with them.    They have been
passing the winter at Tauai, with Mr. Whitney; and sailed
this morning for Hawaii, as permanent associates of Mr.
and Mrs. Thurston at Kairua, the principal town of the
island, and the residence of the governor.  Karaimoku
and Kaahumanu, who are the regents of the Islands, in
the absence of the king, despatched the barge to the windward, expressly for the purpose of returning Mr. and Mrs.
Richards to Lahaina, and of carrying Mr. and Mrs. Bishop
to their station at HIawaii. A mark of kindness sufficiently
indicative of their good will to the Mission.
Until the present time, the hymns used in the native
worship have been in manuscript. An edition is now
printed, and Mr. Richards has brought a quantity for distribution at Lahaina.  The knowledge of their arrival has




200


SITUATION IN A STORM.


spread rapidly through the settlement. and our houses are
thronged with eager applicants for them. T~he:-richest
treasure could scarce be received with greater e-ithusiasm
than these, " himeni paiia,"-stamped hymts, as they
are egled.
Mih 13. Late at night.    The tempestuous character of this month is as marked here, as in most other
parts of the world, notwithstanding the general and almost
uninterrupted serenity of the rest of the year. I am now
writing in the midst of one of the mrost violent storms I
ever witnessed. For the first time since our residence on
the Islands, the "' artillery of h. aven'" is playing so near
our dwellings, as to turn the admiration we have felt in its
more distant peals, into momentary terror.  An incessant
glare of lightning breaks through the chinks of our door
and windows, and the various loop-holes of our house,
while the wind and rain rush upon us from every part of
the roof and sides, and threaten our hut with instant
destruction. The water, to the depth of a foot, is running
in a rapid current through B —'s room, forming a small
wing to ours, and Mr. Richard's house is entirely overflowed.
The raging of the tempest as it rushes from the ocean,
the tumult of the wvaters, the thundering of the surf on
the reef, and its heavy lashings aleong the shore, the wrenching, bending, and cracking of' our hts, as the gale sweeps
over and around them, make a total of circumstances,
that would present rather a gloomy picture to our friends,
who have known the desolating storm only by the sound
as it " hoowPd o'er their steuadyi buatemients."  We are
seeking a partial refuge from the rain under our umbrellas;
and H1 — has been sitting f;or hours with C-  in her
arms-watching the motion of the rafters in the contentions of the wind-ready to make an escape with him
from the ruins of our cabin.
Jftarch 18. Our friend Hoapiri, in a call after dinner
to-day, told us that some of his men who had just come
from the mountains, reported a ship in the Morokai channel. Feeling disposed for a ramble, I took the glass, and
proceeded up the mountain two or three miles, to ascertain
in what direction the vessel, said to be in sight, was pro.




INTELLIGENCE FROM AMERICA.


201


ceeding., I son descried the sail, and perceived it to be
the native brig Waverley. Finding myself in the vicinity
of a couple of lofty mounds, that form a prominent feature in the scenery to the north of Lahaina, I extended
my walk to them. 
They form the opposite sides of an ancient crater, still
bearing strong marks of the action of fire, though the
bottom is covered with grass. On the top of the highest
elevation, there is an irregular enclosure, with a number
of large conical heaps of stone at the corners and along
the sides. From its situation and general appearance, I
judged it to be the ruins of an hei-au; in which impression
I was soon afterwards confirmed by the melancholy evidence of several skulls, and various bones of the human
body, but partially buried beneath the fragments of lava
with which the area was covered.
In returning, after descending a precipice of fifty or
sixty feet, I followed the windings of a deep and romantic
glen-scarce a hundred yards wide-filled with taro,
sugar cane, and bananas; and through which the largest
mountain stream, that waters the plantations of Lahaina,
makes its rapid course. Both sides were overhung by
monstrous ledges of black rock; in many clefts of which,
whole families were living without any defence from the
weather, by night or by day, but such as nature had
provided.
Before I reached home, the Waverley had come to an
anchor. Shortly after, Captain Smith and Mr. Dana, of
Honoruru-who have chartered the brig for a voyage to
the Society Islands and New Zealand, called on Ius; and,
much to our joy, put into our hands a large packet of
letters and papers from America. They were brought by
the Parthian, Captain Rogers, of Boston, arrived within a
few days at Oahu. You may judge of the interest with
which they were received, from the fact that the tea table,
at which we were just taking our seats when the gentlemen entered, was standing in statu quo till after ten o'clock.
Dsease and death, it appears, are still carrying on their
work of destruction among those we have known; and
dispensations, which with the most touching eloquence say
to the lover of the world, " Turn ye, turn ye at my reproof,"




202


REFLECTIONS.


and to the child of God, "This is not thy rest," have
filled the halls of some with sadness, and hung the habitations of others with the tapestry of woe. If we needed
any thing to reconcile us to the sacrifices we have made
froimnafense of duty, we could find sources abundant, in
some of the intelligence brought us by this arrival, in most
striking and melancholy lessons on the folly and danger of
any course of conduct that centres in the pleasures, the
riches, the honours, or any of the perishable gifts of the
world.
We are still blessed with health, strength, spirits, and
the happiness that springs from a prospect of continued
life and usefulness; while some, who thought and spoke
of us as little better than idiots, for removing far from all
possibility of an advancement in life, and throwing ourselves away in an enterprise so wild and visionary, as they
considered thai in which we are engaged, have already
been suddenly arrested in their aspiring career; and,
while " seeking grseat things for themselves," have been
cut down like a summer flower, and now lie withering in
the grave. Their visions of worldly honour and of earthly
joy are fled for ever; and an eternity, which recognizes
nothing as praiseworthy or honourahle in itself, that the
world calls good or great, is their all. Such instances,
though melancholy in the extreme to the mind that is
accustomed to follow the naked spirit to the bar of God,
still are salutary in their admonitions. They teach us the
end of " the pride of life," and shew what vanities wealth
and honour are, when compared with the salvation of our
own souls, or the spiritual benefit of our fellow immortals:
and in view of them, we cannot but thank God that grace
was ever given to us, if such is the happy fact, to withdraw the supreme affections of our hearts from the things
that are " seen and temporal," and to elevate and fix them
on those which are " unseen and eternal."
Sabbath 21. The audience at the native service this
morning was unusually large, attentive, and solemn. The
sermon was on the judgment, and many seemed deeply
affected by it; especially our friend Keaweamahi, the wife
of Kaikioeva.  She shed tears frequently during the
preaching, and when we closed the worship by singing a




GOVERNOR COX.                        203
version of the hymn, " Lo        he comes with clouds descending," burst into an uncontrolled        fit of weeping.
Auna, the Tahitian chief; led the exercises of the afternoon, before embarking on board the \Vaverley to return
to the Society Islands, on account of the health of his wife.
He is a noble example of the power of the Gospel on the
heart and character of a pagan.      His wife is a very handsome woman; and in her general appearance and manners
remarkably like one of the most polished females I ever
saw.
Friday, 26.    This morning a squadron of native vessels passed, with the body of Governor (Cox, who died this
week at Oahu, bound to Kairua, where the corpse is to be
deposited. All the principal chieis who have been residing here, excepting Wahine Pio, at present governess of
Lahaina, went some time since to attend him         in his illness; and have now gone to Kairua to the funeral.*
* iote fromn the first London Edition. Governor Cox was the son
of Keecaumokie, the warlike and ambitious chief of Kairua, and the
northern part of Hawvaii, who was commander-in-chief of TamehameIh's forces, in all his war campaigns; and was succeeded by Karaimoku, as prime minister in the government of the Islands.  He appears to
have been a man of adventurous, daring, and sanguinary character; was
a principal agent in elevating Tamchameha to the throne of Hawaii;
and in the battle of Keei, the assassination of Keona, and the subjugation of the other islands, lie bore a conspicuous part. His family come
prises by far the most poiwerfil portion or the aristocracy of the Islands.
ie left four children, viz. Kaahumanu, the queen-dowager of Tamehara(ha, (in whom at prese t, with Bpki, is vested the regency of Hawaii,)
Piia, and another of Tamrehameha's queens.  Kuakine, the present
chief of Hawaii, and Governor Cox, who bore his father's name, and
was called by the people Keecaumoku, literally the Island-climbing Swimmer,-from Ke, the; /, swvinmmer, or to swim; ee, to climb, as upon a
rock, or up a ship's side; and mokcu,,an island. ( nder Keopuolani,
Keecaumoku was governor of Maui; in person and in disposition, lhe
resembled Kaahumlanu more than any other member of the family; and,
prior to the frequent attacks of disease that he experienced during the
last years of his life, appears to have possessed in some degree the enterprise which marked his father's character. He was among the first
to sanction the residence of the Missionaries from America, and uniformly befriended them. On our arrival in 1822, we found the steward
of his household was a native of the Society Islands, a brother to the
wife of one of our native teachers. This procured us an introduction.
Hle was the first to desire instruction, to establish a school for the instruction of his people, and establish family worship in his house. The
illness that immediately preceded his dissolution was painful, and some.




204


GOVERNOR COX.


Thursday, April 8. The John Palmer, Captain Clarke,
an English whale ship; the Hydaspes, Captain Paddack;
the Cyrus, Captain Folger; the Martha, Capt. Pease;
the John Adams, Captain Joy; and the Hesper, Captain
Chase; all American, have left us to-day, after a visit of
a fortnight.   We have received many expressions of kind.
ness and friendship from them:n and saw them take their
departure with regret.
Wednesday, 14.      Laanui, who is particularly desirous
of conformning to the customs of civilized and Christian
society, called on us this morning. IHe arrived only a day
or two since from   Kairua, where he has been to attend the
funeral of Governor Cox; and expects to sail for Oahu
this evening.    When taking his leave, he laughingly said,
that it was not his farewell call-that towards night, when
he was near sailing, he would come again to say aroha, and
to iwail: referring to a custom of the natives of weeping
what protracted; at first some of the chiefs imagined he was suffering
from sorcery, but afterwards imbibed more rational ideas. I visited him
daily during his illness, and hope and fear alternately occupied my mind
respecting him. I sometimes found him engaged in ejaculatory prayer,
"Lord, thou knowest my deeds from my youth up-Thou knowest my
sins-Lord, forgive them-Save me by Jesus Christ the only Saviour,"
were some of the expressions I once heard him use. Lie wished to be
baptized when near his end; this, however, we thought proper to de
cline, lest he or the natives should think there was any saving efficacy
connected with such Christian rite, in regard to the souls acceptance
with God, irrespective of that moral purity, or cleansing and sanctifying,
of which it is the appointed emblem. He died on the 22d of March,
while I was engaged in the act of prayer by his bedside, and we hope his
spirit entered the abodes of rest and happiness.-William Ellis.
Matheson in his " Narrative of a Visit to Brazil, Chile, Peru, and
the Sandwich Islands, in the Years 1821 and 1822," gives the following
account of a visit to his establishment../ugust 5.-This morning I went to Coxe, intending to purchase some
goats. I expected to find him as usual, either sleeping, or smoking, or
drinking, or busy trafficing like myself. The door of his hut was half
open, and I was about to enter unceremoniously, when a scene too striking ever to be forgotten, and which would require the hand of a master
painter to do it justice, suddenly arrested my whole attention.
About a dozen natives of both sexes were seated in a circle, on the
malted floor of the apartment, and in the midst of them sat John Honore, the Hawaiian catechist. All eyes were bent upon him; and the
variously expressive features of each individual marked the degree of interest excited by what was passing in his mind. So absorbed, indeed,
were they in their reflections, that my abrupt appearance at the door,




INTERESTING SCENE.                       205
aloud when they meet and part. It was, however, only in
pleasantry-for he has long ceased to wail on any occasion.
In continuation of the conversation he remarked, that
the Hawaiians thought us a very cold-hearted people, because we only shook hands, and nodded our heads at each
other, when we met or separated. Whereas their love
was so great, that they always touched noses and wailed.
Namahana, his wife, one of the queens of Tamehameha,
he said, wailed still, but he himself had not, since the teachers came.    " I knocked out my teeth too," he added, putting a finger in the place where two of his front teeth were
missing,    when Tamehameha died, so great was my love
for him.    1 then thought it was very good; but when the
light came, I found it to be very bad: and there was great
sorrow  among the rest of my teeth for the two that were
ereated for some time neither interruption nor remark. The speaker
held in his hand the Gospel of St. John, as published at Otaheite, and
was endeavouring, by signs and familiar illustrations, to render its contents easy of comprehension.  His simple yet energetic manner added
weight to his opinions, and -proved that he spoke, from personal conviction, the sincere and unpremeditated language of the heart.
The Chief himself stood in the back-ground, a little apart from the
rest, leaning upon the shoulder of an attendant.  A gleam of light suddenly fell upon his countenance, and disclosed features, on which wonder, anxiety, and seriousness, were imprinted in the strongest characters.
He wore no other dress than the maro round the waist; but his tall athletic form, and bust seen bending over the others' shoulders, and dignified
demeanour, marked at one glance his iank and superiority over all
around. One hand was raised instinctively to his head in a pensive attitude. His knitted brows bespoke intense thought; and his piercing
black eyes were fixed upon the speaker with an inquiring, penetrating
look, as much as to say, " Can ihat you tell us be really true?"  I
gazed for some minutes with mute astonishment, turning my regards.
from one to the other, and dreading to intrude upon the privacy of persons whose time was so usefully employed. At last the Chief turned
round, and motioned with his hand in a dignified manner, for me to
withdraw. I did so; but carried away in my heart the remembrance of
a scene to which the place, the people, and the occasion, united in attaching a peculiar interest.
I learnt afterwards that Coxe had promised to build a school-house,
and present it to the Missionaries for their use: a donation, which, considering his acknowledged love of money, affords no mean proof that his
inquiries into the truth of the new religion had not been altogether fruitless.




206


REMOVAL TO OAHIU


gone, but I nuld not make new teeth."  "JVaau po, nui
roa elieli" —"4 dark waitmy heart-very, very black!"
Thursday, 15. KeaWeamahi, who is making a dress of
fawn-coloured statin, under the superintendence of H ---,
and at present spends greater part of the day with us,
asked this morning with great simplicity, "from what part
of America sailors came-whether they did not worship
idols-and had never heard of God?"  Tile question does
not speak much for the character of some of our country.
men, even in the estimation of the heathen; and made us
sigh to think of the depravity of example, that could call
forth the query from this interesting pagan.
Thursday. 22. Captain Wilds, of Boston, lately arrived
at Oahu in the Parth;an, came to Lahaina yesterday. It
has been requested that I should join Mr. Ellis at Oahu,
while Mr. Bingham and family make a proposed visit to
Taui: and Captain Wilds having very politely offered a
passage to myself and family, we shall probably go to
Honoruru on Saturday.
Mission House at 11onortru, Island of Oahu, Monday,
26. H    -, myself, ( —, and B —, embarked with
Capt. Wilds on Saturday afternoon,. and landed at this
place yesterday morning, just after breakfast. All our
friends are in health except Mrs. Ellis, who has long been
suffering under severe and protracted disease.
Tuesday,.April 27. The day being unusually fine, Mr.
Bingham proposed after breakfast, this morning, that I
should accompany him to the pari, or precipice, of Kolau,
about seven miles in the interior. Nothing short of the testimony of my own eyes, could have made me believe that
there was so much of the 1" sublime and beautiful" in the
vicinity of [lonoruru. It seemed like enchantment, to
find myself transported in the short space of an hour, from
the dusty plain, stagnant pools, dreary beach, and various
desolations of the seaside, to the freshness and verdure.
luxuriance and bloom, of a woodland region, where the
eye rested only on objects of grandeur and beauty, and
the ear caught no sounds, amid the solitude of the forest,
but the chirping of birds, the murmurs of the mountainstream, or the dashing of the distant cascade.
The path we took led up the valley immediately in the




PART, OR PRECIPICE OF KOLAU-,


207


rear of the village. As this gradually contracted from a
width of three to that of one mile, the scenery became
more and more picturesque and delightful, till at a distance
of five miles from Honoruru, it far surpasses any thing I
have ever witnessed.  h The mountains are so lofty and so
graceful in their outlines-so rich and beautiful in their
foliage-so diversified by dark grottos, projecting cliffs,
and spouting watertalls, while all below presents an exubterance of vegetation almost incredible —that I cannot
but think it among the finest of the exhibitions of nature,
in a state of undisturbed simplicity and wildness. Such
was the character of the scenery for the two last miles of
the walk, while our path led successively through glade,
copse, and dell, and was frequently for long distances
together, entirely embowered by the interlacing branches
of the spreading hau-tree —a species of hibiscus.
After ascending from one of these dark passages, Mr.
Bingham suddenly cautioned me against the violence of
the wind we should soon meet; at the same time the rushing of heavy blasts was heard, intimating, like the roarings
of a cataract or the mutterings of a volcano, an approach
to one of the most subliue phenomena of nature; and on
abruptly turning the angle of a projecting rock-with an
admiration approaching to terror, I found myself balancing,
in strongly conflicting currents of air, on the brink of a
precipice little less than a thousand feet in perpendicular
descent, without the parapet of a single stone to guard
against the fatal consequences of a false step. Immediately before me at the foot of this trementdous offset, in most
perfect bird's-eye view, lay a widely extended, cultivated,
and thickly inhabited country, against whose distant shores
the peaceful billows of the Pacific were rolling in ever
varying and snowy brightness, while farthet still, the blue
waters of the ocean rose in gradual ascent, till, apparently
midway between heaven and earth they met the sky, in a
haziness that rendered either distinguishable from the
other, only by the regularity of a scarcely discernible
horizon.
To the right and to the left, within a stone's throw of
the rock on which I stood, two richly covered pyramidal
peaks rose many thousand feet above my head; while be,




208     PARI, OR PRECIPICE OF KOLAU.
y; ond them, on either side, summit after summit of mountains, whose broad bases were planted in the valley below,
appeared in long perspective, till, with a semicircular
sweep, both chains terminated in the sea by bold and romantic headlands, rendered more picturesque by a partial
continuation of detached cliffs and islets. In full view behind was the beautiful valley through which we had ascended, gradually sinking, from the very spot on which we
stood, to the now miniature town and port of Honoruru,
beyond which again rose " the illimitable sea."
The sublimity of the whole was not a little increased by
the almost overwhelming sounds of the trade wind, as it
swept along the mountains, which resisted its progress to this
narrow pass, and through which it rushed with irresistible
velocity and power, bearing in its broad current and whirling eddies, leaves, sand, and even pebbles. Such was
the effect of this, that though every thing far and near,
gleamed in the brightness of a cloudless sky and noonday
sun, I could scarce resist the impression that we were
standing amid the ragings of a tempest-an illusion not
diminished by the harsh screams of the sea-gull and cry of
the tropic bird-as they passed us on rapid wing to the
lofty peaks above, or hastened again to sail in the calmer
regions beneath our feet.
None but an atheist could have kept his thoughts from
rising to that Being of majesty and of power, who " founded the earth, and hung it upon nothing,"-" who formed
the mountains and created the winds,"-" who shut up
the sea, and said, Hitherto shalt thou come, but no farther;
and here shall thy proud waves be staid." And in the
lively contemplation of the marvellous wisdom and omnipotence that overlooks and upholds the mighty wonders
of the universe, we could not but feel the force of the
humbling interrogative, "  LORD, what is man, that THOU
art mindful of him; or the son of man, that THOU visitest
him?"
After gazing on the various objects of grandeur and
beauty by which we were surrounded, till our eyes were
fatigued, we made a short descent by a narrow footpath,
by which clinging from rock to rock, and from cliff to cliff,
you may reach the plain below. Having gratified our




RELIGIOUS MEETINGS.            209
curiosity in this manner, by what I considered a dangerous
experiment, we returned to the summit; and in the cleft
of a rock, where we were shielded from the wind, partook
of the refreshments we had brought with us.
Before commencing our return to the village, I tried mf
pencil on the scene, but the merest outline is all I can ever
make of the sketch; to give any thing like the distance
and the depth necessary to produce the required effect,
would demand more than a master's skill.
The battle that decided the fate of Oahu, in the conquests of Tamehatneha, and by victory in which he became sole monarch of the group, was fought in the valley
leading from Honoruru to this pass. The king of Oahu,
after a desperate conflict, fell bravely at the head of his
army. Upon which a complete rout ensued. One party
of more than three hundred warriors, fled towards this
precipice, and were pursued so closely, and with such
relentless purpose, as to have been plunged, without an exception, from the tremendous offset to the depths below!
Saturday, Miay 1. At two o'clock this afternoon, 1
accompanied our highly valued friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Bingham, with their children, to the beach, where they
embarked on board the whale ship Washington, Captain
Gardiner, for Taui..Monday, 3. By preaching to the English congregation yesterday morning, I commenced the discharge of
the regular duties which will devolve on me during my
residence here. These duties will be, an English sermon
on the morning of every Sabbath; a sermon in the native
language at Waititi, in the afternoon of the same day;
another at the same place every Wednesday afternoon:
the instruction of twenty or thirty native teachers, in reading, writing, and singing three afternoons in the week;
and an attendance with Mr. Ellis every Monday evening,
at a meeting for religious conversation with chiefs and
people.
The meeting of this kind to-night was opened by a very
spirited address, to about a hundred persons present, from
the powerful chief Kaahurmano: she was followed in
much the same manner by Karaimoku; after which, the
whole company entered into a free and promiscuous inquiry
18s




218if I  GREAT CHANGE OF CHARACTEIR.
on the subjects of three regular sermons, that had been
preachedin the chapel since the preceding Monday. It
was encouraging and delightful, to see the deep and tender
interest with which so large a company, from the very
lHghest to the most obscure of this people, entered on the
discussion, and listened to enlargements upon the things
of eternity. To be the guides of such, from the darkness
and death of paganism, to the light and glory of the religion of the Cross, is indeed a happy privilege. The Missionary has privations, cares, and sorrows, that no one can
know but by experience, and such as often prostrate him
in the very dust; but when successful, he has also a consolation and a joy, and if perseveringly humble, faithful, and
devoted, will doubtless meet a reward, which might make
even an angel covet his office.
To see, as I have blt lately seen, an interesting, intelligent, and youthful chief, who but a year ago was a
drunken and debauched idolater, but who now gives good
evidence of an entire change of character and of heart,
come, and, with an expression of the highest benignity
and tenderness, exclaim, " aroha, aroha nui, aroha nui
roa!" love to you, great, very great love to you; while
starting tears, and a faltering voice, interrupted farther
utterance; and to have the full conviction, that this declaration of his affection arose simply from an overpowering sense of gratitude to the man, who had made
him acquainted with the words, and brought him to the
light, of eternal life, would be sufficient to make the coldest Christian that ever felt an emotion of genuine piety,
the supporter and advocate of Missions, and the warm and
zealous friend of the heathen.
JMonday, lMay 10. Being all in good health and spirits,
sve succeeded this morning, soon after breakfast, in forming a party to visit a principal natural curiosity of this
island; a lake or pord, in which large quantities of salt
are continually forming. The distance to it in a direct
line from Honoruru is four miles: but thb path we took
made the walk about six, before we reached the bank of
the lake. Our whole number consisted of nine: H ---
and myself, C —  and B —; Mr. Chamberlain and Mr.
Harwood; Robert Haia, an islander educated at CornWall; and two natives, to carry provisions for the day.




VISIT TO THE SALT LAKE.


We had scarcely passed a hundred rods from the village,
before we found something new to admire in the vineyard
of Mr. Marini. After crossing a small stream, which
bounds it on one side, our path led us the whole length of
another. It is well planted and cultivated, and yields
grapes sufficient to make considerable quantities of wine.
Along the fences in some parts, are bushes of the damask
rose in full bloom, which appeared to fine advantage, in
contrast with the pale yellow blossom of the cotton tree,
with which they are interspersed. The vineyard is also
skirted with pine-apples, in different stages of maturity,
from the first swollen pulp to the ripe fruit. Shortly afterwards we crossed what is called the river: the congregated body of fresh water, which makes its way after passing
through the various plantations of the valley to the sea.
A short distance before it enters the harbour, it is several
rods wide, and a number of feet deep; but where we
passed it was divided into two streams, and, as we stept
from stone to stone entirely over it, deserves there, at
most, only the name of brook. Such are most of the
rivers on the Sandwich Islands. On leaving this stream,
our path led to the west; and for the first mile lay through
an uninterrupted succession of taro plantations
After passing the tare ground, we entered on a barren
and dreary plain, with scarce a sign of vegetation. This,
at the end of two miles, terminated abruptly by an almost
perpendicular descent of near a hundred feet into a small
but beautifully verdant valley, filled with several large
groves of cocoa-nut trees, and refreshed by two or three
cool and babbling streams. On the smooth sward, finely
carpeting the grove through which our path led, we partook of some refreshment, and rested during the heat of
mid-day. The scenery from this place to the lake, was
altogether more interesting than any we had before met.
The deep and winding dell through which we pursued our
course, was cool and pleasant from the noisy brook that
swept under its precipitous batks, and imparted luxuriance
to the vegetation with which it was covered. Enormous
and misshapen cliffs of dark rock appeared every where
around us, and on our left, for the greater part of the distance, an unbroken ledge, more than a hundred feet high,




212      DESCRIPTION OF THE SALT LAKE.
overhung our heads. The ascent from this ravine was
very steep, and on reaching the top we found ourselves at
a sufficient elevation to command a view of the greater
part of the leeward side of the islarnd, including the port
and town of Honoruru; and, immediately before us, the
object of our search-the Salt Lake.
It is between two and three miles in circumference,
having a few feet of water only in its greatest depth; and
from the entire incrustation of its bottom and shores with
salt, at the distance at which we first saw it, appeared precisely like a frozen pond in the spring, with the water
standing on the snow and ice, before it has become completely broken up. After descending from the hill, we followed the southern shore of the lake for some distance,
and collected many beautiful specimens of the salt, as it
had formed on twigs, grass, and pebbles, over which the
water had flowed. The impregnation of the water is
exceedingly strong, and the crystallization so rapid, that
from this natural work alone, immense quantities of salt
might be exported. It has no outlet, and is supplied with
water by a very small stream from the rocks on the western side.
Besides the supply of salt from this pond, and others
of a similar kind, the natives manufacture large quantities from sea water by evaporation. There are in many
places along the shore, a succession of artificial vats of
clay for this purpose, into which the salt water is let at
high tide, and converted into salt by the power of the sun.
On our return we met Karaimoku and his retinue in the
valley of Cocoa-nuts. lHe had just landed from his barge,
having come by water, and expects to remain some days
in the vicinity of the lake, to superintend the preparation
of four hundred barrels of salt, for a Russian brig now in
port. Three dollars are to be given for each barrel. He
seemed much pleased, though surprised to meet us, especially H —, on so long a walk; and very politely offered
us refreshments of wine, &c. We accepted a melon and
a few cocoa-nuts, the water of which is a favourite beverage, when warm and fatigued.
Before we reached the tare ground in the valley of
Honoruru, the wind had risen, and showers of rain occa



DEATH (OF TAUMUARII.


213


sionally reached us from the mountains, which were
buried in clouds, and we were glad to take the shortest
path to the village. In doing this, however, we came
near to increasing our fatigue and exposure, for the path
led to the deepest and widest part of the river; on reaching which, no one could be prevailed on, though the opposite bank was covered with natives, and their canoes were
stowed all along the shore, to ferry us over without a payment in dollars. It was in vain we told them i" of silver
and gold have we none;" and after waiting some minutes
to see if our evident fatigue and anxiety to cross would
not touch the sympathy of some one, we w(re about taking
the only alternative (of walking a mile round, when'the
wife of a young chief, who was one of II —'s pupils in
English at Lahaina, happened to come to the bank, and
immediately ordered a canoe to bring us over.
Wednesday,.May 26. Have just returned from witnessing a solemn scene in the dying moments of the kind
and amiable chief, the warm friend and patron of our Mission, King Taumuarii! He expired this morning at nine
o'clock, after an illness of a fortnight.  He was not
thought in a dangerous state till within the last day or two.
On Monday morning he made his will, and yesterday at
twelve o'clock became insensible. I visited him almost
daily during his sickness, and only on Saturday evening
made one of a sad group of friends who followed him, as
he was borne on a sofa through a loudly wailing multitude,
from a small frame house, in which he was taken ill, to a
larger and new one, which had just been completed for
Kaahumanu: but even then, I had little thought that he
would so soon be in the world of spirits.
Mr. Ellis and myself were sent for early this morning,
to attend him in his dying moments. Mr. Ellis remained
about an hour; and as Taumuarii seemed to have revived
a little after offering prayer, he returned to the Mission
House. A few moments only, after he left the room, the
king without a struggle breathed his last: and I had the
melancholy satisfaction of smoothing his features, after
the hand of death had passed across them.
The moment it was evident that he was in the very last
agony, Kaahumanu ordered the door fastened and the




214


CHARACTER OF TAUMUARII.


window curtains dropt, and began preparing the corpse for
exhibition to the people, who haad asseinbled in multitudes
about the house. A Chinese lounge, or settee, was spread
with a rich mantle of green silk velvet, lined with pink satin;
on this the corpse was laid, the lower extremities being
wrapped in loose and heavy folds of yellow satin; while
the chest and head were without covering, except a wreath
of feathers placed round the head, so as to pass over and
conceal the eyes. The splendid war-cloak of the king,
composed of red, yellow, and black feathers, was spread
over the arm of the settee at his head, and a large cape
of the same material and colours occupied a corresponding place at his feet. iThe crowd without had in the mean
time received sore intimation of the event; and redoubling
their lamentations, were rushing from all directions towards the windows and the doors, so that it was difficult
to keep them closed; as soon therefore as the body was
thus laid out, the curtains of the windows in the room were
again drawn up, and an indescribable scene of wailing
ensued.
The death of scarce any other chief could affect us so
deeply and sincerely. My first interview with Taumuarii,
the day we arrived at Oahu, inspired me with a feeling of
respect that I have scarcely known for another native, except our patroness at Lahaina.  He always appeared
more civilized, more dignified, more like a Christian, than
any of his fellows; and I can, with the strictest veracity,
say of him that which I can hardly do of any other in the
nation, that I have never heard from him a word, nor witnessed in him a look or action, unbecoming a prince, or,
what is far more important, inconsistent with the character
of a professedly pious man.  iis high features, and
slightly stooping shoulders, gave him a patrician and
venerable look. His manners were easy and gentlemanlike, and as a " royal captive," to those acquainted with
his public and private history, he was truly an interesting
object. A shade of melancholy was always traceable in
his countenance, and when visiting him, I have often been
reminded, by his case, of the early history of the amiable
Prince James the First, of Scotland.
The introduction of the religion of salvation in this




FUNERAL OF TAUMUARII.


215


perishing land, has not been, as we trust, without everlasting benefit to him.  tie professed to have the hope of
eternal life through the redemption of Christ, and his last
days were marked with a peace which we believe to have
been that of the righteous man. Mr. Ellis was greatly
gratified with his conversations during his illness till he
became insensible.  His body is to he carried to Lahaina,
to be deposited, at his special request, in the same sepulchre with Keopuolani.
Thursday, 27. Spent this morning with Kaahumanu
and the nearest relatives of the deceased, and at their request took a sketch of him, as he lay in the full dress of a
British hussar.  Mr. Ellis succeeded at the same time in
getting an excellent profile likeness from the corpse.
Friday, 28. At nine o'clock this morning all the members of the Mission family now at Honoruru, went to the
royal residence, to attend religious services before the
embarkation of the funeral party. There was a very large
assembly of chiefs, foreigners, and common people. At
ten o'clock, the coffin, covered with black silk velvet, and
enveloped in a rich pall of the same material, was carried
into the open air in front of the house, in the middle of the
circling crowd. The chiefs dressed in full mourning sur.
rounded the coffin-Kaahumanu and Keariiahonui, taking
their seats near the head. The Mission family and the
foreign residents occupied the verandah, into which the
doors and windows of the second story open; while Mr.
Ellis and myself stood in the front door below. After a
hymn and prayer, Mr. Ellis preached from the words,
"Be ye also ready."  The services were closed by singing a native version of Pope's " Dyinr  Christian."  The
corpse was immediately carried on board a pilot boat, followed by the nearest friends and Mr. Ellis, who accompanies them to Maui. They chose the pilot boat as the
best sailer. Several schooners and brigs filled with people,
followed during the morning. Every thing was conducted
with the propriety and order of a Christian burial, and testified to the benefits derived from moral and religious instruction. *
* JVote from the first London Edition. The illness of Taumuarii, was
but short. During its continuance I visited him daily, and engaged




21~6           ACCUSATION OF SORCERY.
Since I have been at this place, I have often made a re.
tired walk on the side of Punch Bowl or Fort Hill, a place
of study, in the cool of the morning and evening.         As I
was walking backward and forward there this afternoon,
with a paper in my hand, a small party of the natives ap.
proached, and charged me with being a wicked man for
praying their chiefs to death, that Taumuarii was dead by
my prayers, that I was killing Karaimoku, and soon there
would not be a chief left on Oahu.        I explained to them
their mistake, as to the object of my frequenting that spot,
and the inability of any one, by prayer or incantation, to
take away the life of another; but they said my words were
"falsehood only;" and an old woman hurried off to a
quarry, where a number of men were digging stone for a
large house Karaimoku is building, and bade them go and
kill me at once, or Karaimoku would be a dead man.
They only laughed at her, however, and Karaimoku him.
self, who was near on his way to see me, joined heartily
with them.    It seemns the place I had thus occupied, was
the site of an old idolatrous temple, and of course intisome hours of most delightful conversation with him.  He was not,
even when in perfect health, so loquacious as the generality of the Hawaiians are; and although le w as abundantly supplied N? ith every article
that could conduce to his comfort, there was not only an habitual dejection on his countenance, but, unless on topics unusually interesting, an
apparent aversion to conversation. When he spoke, his words were
few, but weighty and judicious. I have every reason to believe he was,
in the strictest acceptation of the term, a true Christian; every evidence
afforded distinct apprehensions of Divine truth, with lively and permanent susceptibility of its influence, and, a uniform, upright, honourable,
and irreproachable life was furnished by him after he became acquainted
with the Gospel.  The last evening of his life, he observed, with visible
satisfaction of mind, that he was resting on Christ, that he thought only
and constantly of him, and that he believed he was not by him forgotten.
His last hours were remarkably tranquil. I accompanied the chiefs with
the corpse to Maui on the 28th; and on the 30th, which was the sabbath, his interment took place at Lahaina, in a style somewhat similar,
though less imposing, than that in which Keopuolani's remains had been
conveyed t the tomb. Taumuarii and Keopuolani agreed, prior to her
deceas, that directions should be given, to have their bodies deposited
side by side together in the grave, that they might rise together in the
morning of the resuretion. This was complied with, and the body of
Taumuarii was placed by the side of his late departed friend.
Wiriam Ellis.




BURNING OF THE CHAPEL.


217


mately associated, in the minds of the less enlightened of
the people, with the superstitions of the tabu system.
Sabbath evening, 30, nine o'clock. About an hour since,
we were alarmed by the ringing of the chapel bell, and, on
reaching the door, discovered the south end of the building
in one entire blaze. Being entirely of grass, in five minutes the whole was on fire, but not till, by the prompt exertions of a few foreigners and natives, every article of any
value, such as the Bible, lamps, pulpit (which was moveable,) window and door frames, and seats, were removed.
The loss is trifling, as to real value; the house was very
old and shabby, and, to be used at all much longer, would
have required rebuilding. The chiefs have determined to
build a stone chapel, as soon as Karaimoku's house is
finished, but to have a house of the kind destroyed by an
incendiary, is painful. Suspicion, as to the perpetrator of
the deed, has fallen on a drunken man, who was reproved
for improper behaviour during the service this afternoon,
and who was heard to threaten to burn the " hale pule,"
house of prayer. Others say it has been destroyed by way
of retaliation for the death of Taumuarii, who they think
was the victim of our prayers. Whichever may have been
the cause, it originated only with the father of evil. We
could not see it sink into ruins without an emotion of sadness, especially as it fell by the hands of baseness. Many
of the natives wept aloud, I doubt not, with most unfeigned
sorrow, and the air was filled with the exclamations, "Jlroha
ino! aroha ka hale pule-ka hale 0 ke kctkua! auwe! auwe! ---great is my sorrow, great my love for the house of
prayer, for the house of God! alas! alas!-uttered in most
piteous tones. The class of native teachers, who are at
present under my instruction, were most of them quickly
on the ground, and carried all the articles rescued from the
fire, within the walls of the Mission yard; they manifested
much indignation at the wickedness of the " kanaka naau
po" —dark-hearted fellow-who had done the deed.
Monday, 31. Namahana, her husband Laanui, and
several of the chiefs, were at the Mission House before
sunrise this morning, to sympathize with us for the loss of
the chapel. They design punishing the culprit, if he can
be discovered, and have already given orders for ie erec19




218         VISIT TO A SICK SAILOR;
tion of a new and larger house of worship, without any
suggestion of the propriety or necessity of it, from us..Monday, June 7. After the monthly prayer meeting
with the natives, H ---  called with me this afternoon to
see a young American sailor who is very ill, and who I
have visited regularly for some time past. He is one of
the many infatuated beings, who desert their ships, to wander among the licentious inhabitants of the island, without
a home, and with scarce a subsistence. He suffers exceedingly, and is entirely destitute of every comfort: his
bed is a dirty mat spread on the ground, with a piece of native cloth for a covering, and a block of wood for a pillow.
We do all in our power to prevent his suffering for want of
medicine, food, and necessary attentions; but we have
become so familiar with sights of misery, which we cannot
even attempt to alleviate, that we are often compelled to
turn from them with a sigh, and banish them as quickly as
possible from our recollection. We dwell in a land of
disease and death, and, in many respects, of inconceivable corruption and horror. This lad, like many others
who live at ease in sin, while their health and strength are
continued, now, that he is in a situation of agony and of
danger, is overwhelmed with guilt and shame, and with
trembling and tears supplicates the counsel and the prayers, which in other circumstances he would have disregarded, and perhaps scorned.
Such are to be pitied, to be instructed, and to be tenderly and fervently prayed for; but I doubt whether any
one can discharge the duty without the lively fear, that if
it is to them the hour of death, it is eternally too late for
their salvation; and if they recover, that their fears and
their penitence will be only as the morning cloud and early
dew.
Tuesday, 8. It is quite sickly among the natives at
present.;Two chief women died on Sunday; one here,
and on -Waititi; and from the daily wailing heard in
various-  tions it is probable there are many deaths
among thi commoe n people. Before breakfast this morning, N            Laanui, with their retinue, called for
me to acompany them to the funeral of the chief at
-Waitti 




A RIDE TO WAITITI.            219
After a cup of coffee we set off, and even the object of
our excursion, and the deep mourning dresses of most of
the party, did not suppress a smile, provoked by the appearance we made, when brought in the scope of a single
coup d'oeil. The queen. seated on a mat, completely filled
the body of the small waggon in which she rode. She was
drawn by a pony, which. in size and weight. could stand
no comparison with her majesty; while Robert Haia,
perched on the foreboard. immediately over the little horse,
acted as charioteer. Laanui, who is a tall stout young
man, bestrode a nag, equally sorry and diminutive in his
appearance as the one in harness, but far more restless
and stubborn in his movements, without saddle or bridle,
except one of twisted grass; his feet, while not engaged
in beating the ribs of his beast, dangling just above the
surface of the ground. He was richly 'nd fashionably
dressed; but for the benefit of the air, in the labour of his
arms, legs, and feet, necessary in the management of his
horse, or, from a fear of injuring it by a fall, he committed
an elegant cap of velvet and gold to an attendant, and rode
bareheaded. Three or four of the native teachers, in
good American clothes, but most wretchedly mounted,
kept him company; while a large number of servants, covered only by a few dirty strips of native cloth, scampered
along, some behind and some before, on horses as shabby
and uncivilized as their riders.
My charger was the Mission horse; a raw-boned, highhipped, long, lean old animal, quite characteristic of the
whole establishment. You can readily imagine, that this
escort of horsemen to the royal equipage-some of the
horses kicking and running, while the ragged tapas and
long hair of the riders were streaming in the air, others
balking and backing, and others again standing in stubborn fixedness in spite of whipping and goading,-made
no common spectacle; especially, when viewed in connection with a large train of attendants, in eEry colour
and variety of drapery, bearing Chinese umbrellas of yellow and crimson damask, different coloured kahiles, calabashes of refreshments, tobacco-pipS, andapttoons;
some running and hooting after the carriage of' feir mistress, and others standing in silent admir  of the skill
of the horsemen and the various tempers of*he beasts.




220


RUINS OF A HEI-AU.


On reaching the settlement, the coffin was still unfinished; and I improved the necessary delay in visiting a large
hei-au, which had often attracted my attention, situated
about a mile above the bay and groves of W aititi, immediately under the promontory of Diamond Hill, It seems
well situated for the cruel and sanguinary immolations of
the heathen, standing far from every habitation, and being
surrounded by a wide extent of dark lava, partially decomposed, and slightly covered with an impoverished and sunburnt vegetation. It is the largest and most perfect ruin
of the idolatry of the Islands I have yet seen; and was
the most distinguished temple in Oahu. By a rough measurement, I made its length forty, and its breadth twenty
yards. The walls of dark stone are perfectly regular and
well built, about six feet high, three feet wide at the foundation, and two feet at the top. It is enclosed only on
three sides, the oblong area, formed by the walls being
open on the west; from this side there is a descent by
three regular terraces or very broad steps, the highest
having five small kou trees, planted upon it at regular distances from one another.
A native of whom I had inquired on the beach the direct path to the hei-au, and who had obligingly offered his
services as a guide, gave me an explanation of some of
the rites of the former system, interspersing his statement
every few moments, with an emphatic —" aore maitai!'
" naaupo " —" no good!" —' dark hearted!"
Pieces of cocoa-nut shells, and fragments of human
bones, both the remains of offerings to false gods, or
rather to demons, were discoverable in different parts of
the area, and forcibly hurried the mind back to the times
of superstitious horror now gone, as we firmly believe,
from this interesting people, for ever. It was at this
place that ten men were doomed to be sacrificed about
twenty years since, for the recovery of our late patroness
Keopuolioi, then dangerously ill, in the neighbouring
groves oa Waititi. It was her happy destiny, before her
death, to see a bright and glorious day dawn on the gloom
that oveshadoweher birth, and rested on her riper
years; and eventually, herself to become the blessed
recipient, as We trust, of all the riches of eternal grace,




BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT.


221


As far as my knowledge of the language would permit,
I endeavoured to direct the attention of my companion
to the glories of this latter day, to the only acceptable
sacrifice, te Lamb made ready from the foundation of the
world, and to convince him of the necessity of a life of
holiness, and of loving and worshipping the only true God.
The terraces of the hei-au command a beautiful prospect
of the bay and plantations of Waititi, of the plain and
village of Fonoruru, rendered more picturesque by the
lofty embankments of Fort Hill on one side, and the tall
masts of the shipping on the other, and still farther in the
back ground, of the dark eminences in the vicinity of the
Salt Lakead the picturesque chain of mountains that
forms the north-western boundaryobf the island. The view
to the east is of a perfectly different character, presenting
nothing but the precipitous projections and shelvings of
the indescribably rude promontory of Diamond Hill. This,
on the side next the hei-au, is entirely inaccessible, and
though it is without a single germ of vegetation in its
whole extent from top to bottom, a space of many hundred
feet, is still one of the most imposing and beautiful
features in the scenery of Oahu.
Shortly after I reached Waititi again, the funeral service, consisting of a hymn, prayer, and address, was performed in a beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees. Many
hundred natives were present, and after giving a respectful attention to the services, followed the corpse to the
grave in a regular procession.
Saturday, 12. Our friends, Mr. Elwell and Mr. Hunnewell having trained their horses to the harness, politely
called for H    -- and the children to take an evening airing in one of the coaches recently brought from America.
The plain affords a beautiful drive, but we little thought,
on our first arrival, so soon to see it enlivened and ornamented by so neat and genteel an equipage.
Tuesday, 15. The morning promising a pleasant day,
it was determined at breakfast, that we should visit the
mountains; once more to enjoy the retirement and
sweetness of woodland scenery. Our party coasisted of
H —, C —       and B —; young Mr. Halsey'of New
York; Robert Haia, and myself, with Henr,  young
19                  /




2.22       VISIT TO THE MOUNTAINS.
English sailor, living in the Mission family, and two or
three native boys, to carry refreshments.
We lefthome at half past ni  o'clock. For the first
mile, in crossing the plain to the north, and pasing under
and around the western side of Fort Hill, we met nothing
but the objects of our daily observation. At about that
distance from the village, we crossed a stone wall, which
secures the plantations of the valley from the depredations
of the herds and flocks feeding on the plain, which i a
common; and, for another mile, made our way through a
succession of taro plantations, by a path so narrow as to
require a cautious step to avoid falling, either on one side
or the other, into the water and mire in which tt vegetable
grows.
The first entire novelties we met, were a couple of
tamarind trees, the property of Mr. Marini. The tamarind is among the most beautiful of the larger productions
of tropical climates.  The trees were covered with
blossoms of a light yellow, tinged and sprinkled with red,
and with fruit in every stage of growth, from the bud to
that which was perfectly ripe.
As we proceeded up the valley, the ground became
more uneven and picturesque, and the variety and
luxuriance of vegetation rapidly increased.  At the
distance of two miles from the village, the hills near us
began to be clothed with shrubbery and trees, and the air
became sensibly more cool and sweet: a note from a bird
also occasionally reached the ear, while the babblings of
the water-courses, leading from one taro bed to another,
and from one side of the valley to the other, were exchanged for the heavy rumbling of the mountain torrent.
After an hour's walk, the valley had diminished from a
half to a quarter of a mile in width, and instead of the
gentle swellings of the hills at its entrance, our path was
overhung by mountains, almost perpendicular, and covered
with a variety of the richest and most beautiful foliage, interspersed with bold ledges or single projections of rock
dripping with moisture, and gracefully mantled by vines
and creepers, growing in all the brightness and luxuriance
of perennial verdure.
At half past eleven o'clock, we reached the head of the




SCENERY AT OAHU-.


223


glen, a place where it branches into two narrow ravines,
one on each side of a mountain jutting from the east.
We here found a delightful resting spot, in a clump of 
lime trees planted by Mr. Marini. They are eight in '
number, and stand in a recess of rocks in such a manner,
as to form a large and beautiful arbour, impenetrable to
the sun, and filled with the fragrance of the blossoms and
fruit of the trees.
We remained two hours at this spot, during which I
secured the outlines of two or three of the most striking
scenes around us, a sketch of our bower among the rest.
I will send one of these, to illustrate this part of my journal.
After a cup of coffee, we prepared to ascend the mountain immediately on the east, by far the most arduous part
of our excursion, our path being an uninterrupted but
winding ascent, of the steepness of an ordinary staircase,
for near two miles, through the thickets and cliffs, which
had been so much the objects of our admiration. About
three o'clock we reached the summit, and found ourselves
more than a thousand feet perpendicularly above the place
of our refreshment, and not less than three thousand
above the level of the sea, surrounded by scenery as
enchanting as it was novel and picturesque. Not an
object, simply natural was wanting for the perfection of
woodland beauty in the spot where we stood; while near,
and apparently on a level with us, almost on every side,
were the narrow ridges and pyramidal peaks, which but
the hour before we hadlseen intercepting the clouds, that
were hurried along by an impetuous trade wind, The
valley, too, through which we had passed, lay like a map
at our feet, the ocean looked like a blue wall built around
us, to the skies, while the old fortified crater near Honoruru, was scarce distinguishable from the level of the
plain; and Diamond Hill, an object approaching to sublimity in almost every extensive view we had before
enjoyed on this island, though still conspicuous and beautifully unique, was so diminished and softened by height
and distance, as to appear only like the dark ruins of
some stately castle jutting into the sea.
The whole forcibly reminded me of the descriptive correctness and spirit of an effusion of one of our American




224             SCENERY AT OAHU.
bards: and had the author himself been of our party, I
believe he would have forgotten the ramble and the objects which first elicited it, and with me have exclaimedOahu!-In thy mountain scenery yet,
All we admire of nature in her wild
And frolic hour of infancy is met,
And never has a summer morning smil'd
Upon a lovelier scene, than the full eye
Of the enthusiast revels on-where high
Amidst thy forest solitudes, he climbs
O'er crags, that proudly tower above the deep,
And knows that sense of danger which sublimes
The breathless moment-wihen his daring step
Is on the verge of the cliff, and lie can hear
The low dash of the wave with startled ear;:In such an hour he turns -and on his view
Ocean-and earth-and heaven burst before him.
Clouds slumbering at his feet, and the clear blue
Of summer's sky, in beauty bending o'er him.
From   this place we turned our steps homeward, by a
path leading directly along the top of the mountain, as it
stretched towards the sea, and gradually softened down to
the level of the plain at a distance of three or four miles.
In several places, there was barely room for us to pass, one
by one, on the very ridge of the mountain, while on either
side there was an almost perpendicular descent of many
hundred feet. We were surrounded by a variety of beautitil shrubs and flowers of most exuberant growth.  The
brake was of astonishing size, I never saw any in America more than two or three fee     h, but here its long
leaves nodded gracedfilly over our heads, and in many
places arched and overshadowed our path. It was near
six o'clock when we reached home; but we felt much less
fatigue than we could have expected, and were more delighted by the excursion than we had even hoped to be.
The only trees and plants known to us, which we saw,
and, which I have not yet mentioned, were the koa, (an
acacia,) a large and beautiful tree of dark, hard wood, of
which the canoes of the natives are formed; the Ohia,
(eutenia malaccensis,) bearing a beautifully tufted crimson
flower, and a fruit called by foreigners, the native apple,
from its resemblance to our fruit of that name, juicy and
refreshing, but rather insipid to the taste: and the castor




FUNERAL OF AN AMERICAN.


225


tree, (palma christi.) Of fruits, besides the tamarind,
Malacca apple, and prickly pear, (cactus ficus indicus,)
which grows to a large size here, we met with the banana,
plantain, lime, lemon, pine-apple, and musk and water
melons: and saw of vegetables, potatoes, principally, the
sweet, though some few commonn mrerican or Irish, yam,
taro, pumpkin, cabbage, Indian corn, onion, bean, cucumber: and pepper, ginger, mustard, and tobacco.
The bread-fruit is one of the finest of our vegetables.
A full-grown tree is about the size of an ordinary hickory
in America, or an ash in England. The fruit, when
flourishing, is larger than a pine-apple, and more circular
in its shape; when perfectly ripe, its colour becomes yellowish, and its taste sweet, but not pleasant. We eat it
before it is ripe, when it is a light green colour. The
outer coat, or peel, is thin but hard, though not shining
like the rind of a melon, and is entirely covered with
slightly marked, and small pentagonal sections.  It is
cooked, by throwing it directly from the tree, upon a bed
of coals, or into the blaze of a fire. The outer coat
immediately becomes charred, while the inner parts only
roast like a potatoe. When cooked through, the rind is
easily removed, leaving a beautifil, light-coloured, smoking
loaf. Its general consistence is that of a fine Irish pota.
toe; but more spungy, and, towards the centre, quite
porous. In taste it is very like the hard-boiled yolk of
an egg.
Tuesday, 22. The hip Sultan, Captain Clark, of Boston, last from the North-west Coast of America, came to
an anchor in the roads this morning. Shortly after, I
received a note from the consul, requesting me to attend
the funeral of a passenger, who had died on board, the day
she made the Islands. His name is Prescott, first officer
of brig Frederick, of Boston, which has been sold on the
Spanish coast, and her captain and crew brought to the
Islands by the Sultan. 'here was a very respectable
attendance; the procession moving from the consulate,
where the religious services were performed. It will be a
consolation to the friends of him thus called into the world
of spirits, far from the tender sympathies of home, to
know that he has found a resting place, though in a hoa~




226      VISIT TO MR. AND MRS. ELLIS.
then land, near a Christian chapel, and not in the dreary
caverns of the deep.
June 23. Were you sitting with us this evening, my
dear M —, you would scarce believe yourself in the
torrid zone, and that too in midsuimmer. The wind howls
around us as boisterously, if not as coldly, as it does
through the colonnades of your own mansion, when a
northern storm sweeps down the lake on a winter's night;
and we have been obliged to close all our doors and windows, and resort to woollen garments, to keep us comfortable. The whole day has been blustering, gloomy,
and wet, similar to the weather of March in America, and
such as in this climate, especially at Lahaina, is seldom
known. There is a heavy swell of the ocean from the
south, and the high surf occasioned by it, though near a
mile distant, has been the object of constant attraction
from its varying beauty and tumult. The interest of the
scene in this direction, is much increased by the appearance of the Sultan, still outside of the reef. She labours
at her anchor in the violence of the gale, with a stateliness
of motion becoming the proud name she bears.
There has been so much of a tempest at sea, that Governor Adams, who sailed for the windward on Saturday,
returned this morning with the loss of a topmast and yards.
Thursday, 15. Mr. and Mrs. Ellis having become
partially established in a new stone cottage, gave a special invitation to the Mission farni to spend the day with
them. We were happy indeed    Iee our valued friends
so comfortably accommodated-after having been subjected for eighteen months to great inconvenience, from
the want of a suitable residence-rendered doubly desirable by the extreme ill health of Mrs. Ellis.
Seated at table with none but dear companions and confidential friends near us, we could almost fancy ourselves
again at a family party at home; and in the illusion, for a
moment find a melancholy pleasure.  After the cloth was
removed, we passed the atternoon in listening with lively
interest to the journal of the deputation which explored
the island of Hawaii last summer, and which Mr. Ellis is
preparing for the public. We also again examined the
drawings which are to accompany the work, copies of




KARAIMOKU S NEW PALACE.


227


which I have taken to accompany the manuscript for the
American Board. The originals will go to the London
Missionary Society.
After tea we held the customary weekly prayer meeting
of the Mission family: when Mr. Ellis gave a warm and
affecting address from the words, " Bless the Lord, 0 my
soul; and all that is within me, bless his holy name""Bless the Lord, 0 my soul, and forget not all his benefits"-in which he recounted the various dealings of Providence towards himself and iamily, since his arrival in
the Islands, and testified to the unlailing goodness, mercy,
and faithfulness of God.  Many circumstances conduced
to make the hour deeply interesting; we felt the high and
holy ties by which w;e were united to each other; and
could any one have looked in upon us, while the lively
sympathies of our hearts entered into all the feelings of
our associates, though strangers till we met on pagan
ground, he might with truth have exclaimed, "Behold
how these Christians love one another!"
" Lone exiles, on these northern isles,
Placed far amid the melancholy main."
It is a happiness inconceivable to any one not of our number, or in a similar situation, to meet here those we can
tenderly love; and to find in them the refinement, the
intelligence, and the piety, which in any place give thle
highest zest to the enjoyments of social life.
CHAPTER XII.
KARAIMOKU'S NEW PALACE.
Mission House at Honoruru, &Friday, 16. Dined to-day
at the residence of Captain Ebbetts, of New-York, in
company with Mr. Crocker, American consul; Mr. Small,
a Scotch gentleman, recently from South America; Mr.
Bruce and Mr. Halsey, of New-York; Mr. and Mrs.
Ellis; and Mr. and Mrs. Loomis, and H —, of the
Mission.
Tuesday, 20. This evening, at 8 o'clock, Karaimoku




228       IMPROVEMENT IN BUILDING.
sent to request us to attend prayers with himself and
household at his new house, in which he sleeps for the first
time to-night. We passed a happy hour with him, and
consider the circumstance a strong evidence of the interest
he takes, and the importance he attaches, to the exercises
of family worship.
This building will bear the name of palace.  It is of
stone, plastered and whitened, two and a half stories high,
sixty-four feet in front, and forty in depth; and externally,
except in the roof, is not unlike Mr. J. Fenimore Cooper's
house, at Fenimore.  The second story, the front doors
and windows of which open on a covered piazza or verandah, is that in which the regent will live.  It consists of
one very large apartment in front, upwards of fifty feet
long, and proportionably wide, designed for a saloon, in
which to entertain strangers-commanding, from its elevation, a fine view of the island and ocean-and a small
neat room at one end for a cabinet, to be furnished with
an escritoir, &c.  Thd rest of the floor is divided into
sleeping rooms for himself and one or two confidential
attendants.
The expense of the building, exclusive of the stone, is
estimated at six thousand dollars. It stands in an enclosure of several acres, which is to be planted, and kept in
a state of cultivation: and the whole establishment will
give quite a new aspect to Honoruru, from whatever point
it is viewed.
Kaahumanu has also had a new house built during the
year; it is of wood, and was prepared in all its parts for
erection, before it was brought from America.  It is well
papered and painted, and, in its dimensions and general
appearance, similar to some of our best wooden houses at
Cooperstown. These two buildings, with the consulate,
which is also a two story frame house, a smaller one belonging to Kaahumanu, and the two Mission Houses, give
quite an European aspect to the town; and while they
render it more picturesque, by the contrast with the native
huts, afford evidence of the civilization to which the nation
is approaching.
21. This morning the ship Jupiter, Captain Leslie, of
New-York, anchored in the roads: and in the evening,




REBELLION AT TAULI


229


most of our friends in the village, to the number of fifteen,
including Captain Leslie, took tea with us.
Monday, dug. 9. Yesterday morning, at day-break,
B --- tapped at our door, to announce the arrival of the
long anxiously expected Taraahmaah of New-York.
Captain Meek politely sent up one letter before breakfast,
and a packet of twenty-five or thirty, in time to be read in
the evening.
Tuesday night, Jlug. 10. We had just completed every
preparation this afternoon, for our return to Maui to-morrow, in the Tamaahmaah, and were making a farewell
visit to our friends Mr. and Mrs. Ellis, when the pilot-boat
New-York was seen approaching the harbour from Taui.
She had scarce come to an anchor outside the reef, when,
instead of welcoming Karaimoku and Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, as we had expected, the whole town, as well as our
families, was thrown into agitation, by the cry of " ua
Taua!-ua Taua!"-" it is War!-it is War!"-the intelligence of a rebellion and battle at that island, and of the
necessary desertion of the station at Waimea by Mr. Bingham and Mr. Whitney, for the safety of themselves and
families, having been brought by the schooner.
G. P. Tamoree is at the head of the insurgents; they
attacked the fort at day-break on Sabbath morning, it was
with difficulty saved; and not till ten of the assailants and
six of the government party were killed. Karaimoku, im.
mediately after the repulse of the rebel party, a part of
whose plan was to cut him off at the same time they seized
the fort, sent for the Missionaries, to return thanks to God
with him, for his deliverance; to inform them that the
pilot-boat would sail immediately to Oahu for assistance;
and to urge their departure with their families by the opportunity, assuring them that he would protect them with
his life, as long as he lived, but intimating a fear that,
from the weakness of the party with him, they might all
perish.
Our friends have suffered much from the horrors of the
scene they witnessed at the storming of the fort, and on
their visit to it after the battle, while it was yet filled with
the bodies of the slain, and echoing with the groans of the
wounded and dying; much from anxiety for the safety of
20




230        FATE OF A REBEL CHIEF.
Karaimoku; and much from fatigue and privation, having
embarked without taking any refreshment, or preparing any
thing for the voyage, which has been forty-eight hours long.
They were all completely drenched with the surf, in getting off in a canoe to the schooner, and had not the means
of changing the clothes, even of the two infants with them.
The evening has been one of intense interest, while we
have listened to the narrative of our friends; and rendered
our devout thanksgiving, that they have been brought safely
to our arms from amid " the ragings of the people," and
the scenes of death.
One of the rebel chiefs, a fine-looking young man, was
made captive when his party were repulsed. He requested to be shot; but was bound hand and foot, according to
a custom of the country, and carried on board the pilotboat. Mr. Bingham saw him in the evening after they had
put to sea, seated against the timbers of the vessel in her
main hold. In the morning, the prisoner was gone; and
on inquiry, the captain, without speaking, but by very significant pantomime, Ymade known his fate; he had been
thrown overboard in the dead of the night, with his cords
upon him, when midway between Taui and Oahu! This
is the manner in which, since the abolition of the tabu,
those guilty of high offences against the government, have
generally been despatched. In the period of idolatry,
they were devoted in sacrifice to the gods.
A thousand men are already ordered to be prepared to
embark, at sunrise to-morrow morning, for the relief of
Karaimoku; and scarce any thing is heard, but the rolling
of the drum and the discharging of muskets, by way of
trying their fitness for use. Chiefs and people have entered fully into the spirit of the occasion, no one is to be
seen without some of the insignia belli, caps, feathers,
cartridge boxes, swords or muskets, while every step and
every look is en militaire.
Thursday, Alug. 12-on board the brig Tamaahmnaah.
Yesterday morning, at sunrise, a messenger from Captain
Ebbetts and Captain Meeks informed us, that the Tamaahmaah would sail for Maui immediately after breakfast. At
nine o'clock, after having parted with our friends at a
throne of grace, we came on board, accompanied by Mr.




VISIT TO TAUI.


251


Bingham. Mr. Ellis, and Mr. Chamberlain. At 11, they
left us with the pilot, the brig having gained the open sea;
after-which we fired a salute, and filled away with a fresh
breeze. There never was a finer day. Under a cloud of 
bellying canvass, our rapid bark leapt from billow to billow,
dashing every opposing wave in banks of foam, back upon
the deep, while the sportings of the porpoises, the hurried
motions of the flying fish, and the bright beauty of the
dolphin below-and the lofty soarings and shrill cry of the
tropic bird above-hurried our recollections through the
voyage of two oceans.
We had the prospect of making a very short passage,
but at eight o'clock, were becalmed off the south-west
point of Ranai, where we still are. The delay is unpleasant, but with the elegant accommodations of the brig, and
the polite attentions of the gentlemen to whom we are
indebted for a passage, We do not feel impatient. All the
windward islands are now in sight. Immediately before
us, at a distance of eight or ten miles, are the lofty precipices of Kohola on Ranai; still further to the north, the
more elevated summits of Morokai appear, with Oahu in
the distance, almost lost in a bed of light and graceful
clouds. On the east is Maui, more romantic in its outline than any of the others-and on the south, Tahurawe,
far behind which, rise the sublime mountains of Hawaii.
Ten o'clock at night. We are still on board the Tamaahmaah, the calm having continued till within the last
three hours. The disappointment of not spending the
night at our home, has been more than made up by the
uncommon loveliness of the evening, while a fresh and
balmy breeze hurries us forward with animating rapidity.
A full moon riding through a sky more serene and lucid
than is often seen in ruder latitudes, throws shades of softness and beauty over the wild features of the islands, and
crowns every heaving billow with a silver crest. The ship's
company presents one of the happier sketches of sea-life.
The courses are hauled up, that the helmsman may steer by
a landmark on the top of the mountains overhanging Lahaina, which leaves the view of the whole deck unobstructed.
The captain and officers are silently walking their respective stations, while an occasional loud laugh and




2f2                SCENES AT SEA.
exclamation from the forecastle, signify the manner
in which the watch below are enjoying their partial release from duty. The rest of the crew are variously
grouped-some leaning over the bows, watching the dashing of the waves, as they are furrowed by our bark, or the
transient illumination of the water by a sudden movement
of one of the larger inhabitants of the deep-others are
lounging on the gunwales or against the long-boat, while
a still greater number are mounted on their favourite station, the windlass. One of these last is playing with skill
and taste on a clarionette, in which he is accompanied by
three or four good voices, singing many of the more modern and fashionable songs, occasionally relieved, perhaps
by way of kindly remembrance of former scenes and distant friends, by one or two verses of "i Juld lang syne."
This may be called a domestic scene at sea, and answers
to the happy fireside at home, when the business, the duties, and the cares of the day, give place to the indulgences
of a leisure hour, and the joys of social life. I could not
contemplate it, without admiring the wisdom and the goodness of God to all his creatures, in denying to none the
common sources of contentment and happiness, and in so
constituting man, that all the ordinary situations of life
have pleasures and joys for those to whose lot they fall.
But, though interesting and pleasant, it has not been, like
some of the happy evenings at sea we once knew, whilst
floating on the bosom of the Pacific. No, I have no reason to believe that the Spirit of God is here-but the decks
of the Thames did, at least at times, give evidence of his
presence.
Saturday, dlug 14. Afterbreakfast yesterday morning,
we once more entered our humble habitation, and met the
warm embraces of our beloved Mr. and Mrs. Richards.
Lahaina never before appeared so beautiful: nothing but
necessity could induce me to exchange the fresh sea
breeze and foaming surf that rolls almost into our door, for
a residence near the dusty plain, and stagnant marshes
and fish ponds, about the Mission House at Honoruru.
Notwithstanding this, Oahu is unquestionably the most
fertile and most beautiful of the islands, and from the constant prevalence of the trade winds, is among the most
healthy.




FESTIVAL.


The state of the people here, in reference to spiritual
things, was never more interesting than at present. The
chiefs are making rapid advances in religious knowledge,
and the subject of salvation is evidently taking the highest
place, in the hearts and thoughts of many of the most powerful persons in the nation. For many of these we feel a
strong personal attachment-and you yourself, my dear
M ---, would with us love them, could you but see them
as they are. Their looks of affection and gratitude to us
-the starting tear, at the open and almost daily declaration, "4 we do love the word of God, we do I yve Jehovah
and Jesus Christ, we do rejoice in this day of light, this
time of good tidings and of salvation," &c. &c. would
melt a less tender heart, would touch a less susceptible
bosom than belongs to my sister. If we do not find in
the scenery of the islands all the variety and beauty of an
American landscape-if we most sensibly feel the loss of
our friends, and with them the elegance, the refinement,
and intelligence, of civilized society —if we are daily conscious of a fenderness and intensity of affection for you
and for all our friends, which we cannot describe-still
we are happy in our work, and would not leave it without
a call in providence, the most clear and indubitable.
Sept. 6. From a mistake in the calculation of time, or
from some other cause, this day instead of the 16th inst.
has been considered by the Prince and Princess, as the
anniversary of the death of their mother Keopuolani. And
has been distinguished, according to the former customs
of the people, by a festival, to which we were invited. We
witnessed the commencement of it, partly from curiosity,
and partly from respect to the prince and princess; but
finding that the whole arrangements were under the direction of persons least calculated to conduct them with
propriety, and perceiving that the more innocent ceremonies were giving place to songs and dances of
licentiousness, evidently offensive to the more enlightened
of the chiefs and people themselves, we took our leave,
with feelings of grief that the memory of one they so
justly honoured, should be perpetuated by scenes of dissipation and debauchery. Many thousand persons were
assembled to witness the celebration, and to join in the
20*




234


FESTIVAL.


most heathenish part of it. The place selected for the
occasion was the very spot where she died, the grove in
which she had so often worshipped God, and from which,
after the exercises of a Christian burial, she was conveyed
to the mansions of the dead.
The spectators, forming an immense mob, were kept
several rods from the low fence inclosing the grove, by
sentinels and a file of armed men, leaving an open passage to the gate of a fort, recently erected a few rods distant. When we reached the grove at 11 o'clock, the
processions were nearly ready to move, the principal
chiefs, Kaahumanu, Hoapiri, Wahine, &c. were there, but
without any preparation of dress, for which they gave the
reason that it was only " the play of children," referring to
Nahienaena and the prince.
A long mahogany table, with circular ends, was spread.
and well set with china, and glass, for thirty persons,
having sofas covered with purple at the head and foot for
the princess and her brother. The rest of the seats were
large crimson chairs from Canton. Behind the sofa of the
little girl, fine mats, covered with beautiful native cloth,
of a variety of colours, were spread, on which Nahienaena
and the queens were to be set down from the processions.
Eight fine looking men, in the best style of the native
Costume, stood around, each bearing a kahile, about
thirty feet high, and two feet in diameter at the feathered
end,-of crimson, green, black, and white feathers. On
the north side of the table was a platform, two feet high
and thirty feet long, covered with a vast quantity of native
cloth; —of which also a kind of throne was formed in the
middle, as another seat of honour for the princess. At a
short distance from the table, on the south side, the stewards and servants, amounting to fifty or sixty persons, were
regularly arranged, with immense quantities of provision,
in calabashes handsomely ornamented with green vines and
leaves, nets and tassals, of white, crimson, green and
yellow cord.
Groups of dancing and singing females, including
many hundreds, surrounded the grove, to whom the servants and others, within the enclosure sung in response.
Kinau, a daughter of Tamehameha, and one of the queens




FESTIVAL.'               235
of RihoRiho, was the first important personage, having a
part in the sports, who made her appearance. She was
wrapped in such quantities of native cloth, as not to be
able to move a step without assistance: having a supporter on each side, and a number of attendants preceding
and following her, bearing the ends of her drapery. As
soon as she was seated, Kekauonohi, another of the queens
of RihoRiho, came very much in the same manner; after
which the gates of the fort were thrown open, when the
prince, preceded by a guard and drum, appeared in a
handsome suit of purple cloth, trimmed with gold, and
wearing a dirk. Next to him came a young female chief,
singing and dancing, dressed with much taste in the native style; and immediately after, the princess, also, in a native dress, seated on native cloth, of more than a hundred
thicknesses, and borne on the shoulders of a dozen of her
chief men. She was shielded from the sun by lofty Chinese
umbrellas of rich damask, and surrounded and followed by
several of the larger kahiles, as the insignia of her dignity.
She was thus carried from the fort to the grove several
different times, after slight alterations in her dress and
attendants, while the air rung with the shouts of the multitude, and with songs in her praise. Many became much
intoxicated before they left the table, which was not till
five o'clock. All the chiefs, of whose religious character
we entertain a favourable opinion, fully condemned the
proceedings of this day. Many of them were evidently
much dispirited by them, but said, " The prince and
princess had no superiors, and could not be controlled in
their amusements."
Saturday, 11. On the 7th inst. all the chief women,
except the governess Wahine Pio, the queen Kekauonohi,
and the princess, left Lahaina for Kairua, on a visit to
Governor Adams. The news of the war at Taui, and the
absence of the most powerful rulers, have excited in the
farmers and common people throughout the district, a
more general spirit of drunkenness than at any time since
our arrival among them. For the last few days, by far
the greater portion of the whole population have been in a
state of intoxication; and given up night and day to
gambling, riot, and fighting, and every species of revelry.




236         MIOU-MOKU-MOKU, O  BOXING.
Almost the whole of our scholars have been sent to Taui,
as soldiers, or taken off to Hawaii; so that, just at present,
we are in rather discouraging circumstances.
Drunkenness is one of the most common vices of the
people. Intoxicating liquors are imported in large quantities; but the principal means of indulgence among the
inhabitants in general, is a species of rum, the production
of rude distilleries of their own; and a fermented liquor
of inebriating quality, which they manufacture from the
sugar-cane, the sweet potatoe, and the baked root of the
draccna, an article exceedingly saccharine, and capable
of being formed into a very strong beer. For the art of
distillation, and for that of brewing also, the Islanders
were early indebted, I believe, to the skill and vicious
thirst of two or three citizens of Port Jackson, who found
it convenient to exchange the place of their exile; and
secured a passage from Botany Bay to Hawaii.
It is scarce possible for the inhabitants of a civilized
country to imagine the scenes presented at one of these
periods of general inebriation, when men, women, and
children are every where met, under all the wild excitement of liquor; especially when to this state is added the
singing, dancing, shouting, and fighting of heathenism.
At the present time, a favourite sport, mokut-moku, or
boxing, has been revived. It is a national game, regulated by established principles; to secure an adherence to
which, managers and umpires are appointed, who preside
over it, and determine points of dispute. The champions
usually belong to different chiefs; and enter the ring
inspirited by a pride of clanship, as well as by the ambition of personal distinction. When one has been prostrated, so as to yield the contest, the victor paces the circle with an air of defiance, challenging any other to a trial
of strength and skill; and thus, in the course of half an
hour, a dozen may successively lose an ultimate triumph, by being themselves knocked down by some combatant of greater tact, or muscular power, who at last
clears the arena.
A well directed blood starting or levelling blow, is followed by unbounded applause from the surrounding multitude, testified in the most appropriate manner, by yells and




NATIVE GAMES.


287


shouts of barbarity, that make the whole welkin ring;
while the tossing of thousands of arms into the air, jumping, dancing, and clapping of hands, prolong the expression of delight.
These boxing matches often lead to wagers among the
spectators, and not unfrequently end in violence and death.
At almost every shout from the ring, the natives of our
household exclaim, " Taha  taha! mamuri nake!" —Ah!
ah! by and by murder! —and inform us, that many are
killed in the moku-moku; and that only a few years ago,
forty men were murdered at one time, on the very spot
now occupied by the exhibition.
The games which are the principal means of gambling,
and at which the natives spend much of their time, are
chiefly, the uru maita, the pahe, the konane, and the buhenehene. The two first are similar to each other in their principles. The turut maita consists of the bowling, by two
individuals or parties, of a circular, flat, and highly polished
stone, two or three inches in diameter, and an inch thick,
swelling with a slight convexity from the edges to the centre. The art consists in sending the stone, so as to pass
between two short sticks driven in the ground near to each
other, at the greatest distance; or in the driving of one
party by the other, by bowling the stone farthest.
In the pahe, short blunted darts, of very hard and highly
polished wood, from two to four feet long, are used in a
similar manner, instead of the stone. The konane, is a
kind of drafts, played with small black and white stones,
on a board marked with a great number of squares. It
appears to be an intricate and tedious game. The buhenehens, is on the principle of the childish amusement of
hiding the slipper; and the art, on the one side, consists
in hiding a stone so adroitly, in the full gaze of all present, under one of five loose bundles of native cloth,
placed on the ground, between the parties for this purpose,
as to lead to a mistake in the guess of the seeker for it;
and on the other side, of so close a watch of all the muscular motions of the arm, chest, and shoulder, in the individual secreting the stone, as to lead to a discovery of the
withdrawing of the hand from it, and thus to a knowledge
of the tapa under which it lies. The two last games are




238


PENALTY ON DRINKINGO


played principally by the chiefs, and in them, the single
wagers of RihoRiho have sometimes risen to forty, eighty,
and even four hundred dollars. The common people not
unfrequently become so much excited at games of the urit
maita and pahe, that the greater number of thousands collected around, will be themselves betting on the different
parties; though in doing it, hundreds stake the very last
article they possess in the world, even to the maro or pau
they are wearing at the time.
Wednesday, 16. T'he state of things referred to, in the
preceding paragraphs, continued to become more and more
dreadful, till the governess herself, who has never been
very friendly to our object, felt it necessary to interpose
with the arm of her power. On Saturday afternoon, when
the boxing-matches threatened every moment to lead to
scenes of unrestrained violence and murder, and stones
and clubs began already to thicken in the air, she ordered
an armed band from the fort to disperse the people by
musket and bayonet; and, immediately afterwards, heralds
were sent through the district, to proclaim a law against
all farther drinking of rum or beer, against all boxing and
fighting, and against every breach of the Sabbath, on
penalty of the displeasure of the government, and a fine
of a hundred dollars for each offence. Since which, the
whole settlement has been in perfect order and quietude.
JMonday, 20. For some time past the chiefs have
expressed their determination to have instruction in reading and writing extended to the whole population; and
have only been waiting for books, and an increase in the
number of suitably qualified native teachers, to put the
resolution, as far as practicable, into effect. A knowledge
of this having reached some of the maka ainana, or farmers of Lahaina, who did not enter into the recent dissipation, including the tenants of our own plantation, application was made by them to us for books and slates, and
an instructor; and the first school, consisting of about
thirty individuals, ever formed among that class of the
people, has, within a few days, been established in our
enclosure, under the superintendence of B —, who is
quite familiar with the native tongue.
This event we regard as very important: believing that




INSURRECTION QUELLED.                      239
the introduction of books and slates among the common
people, will prove, as it did among the chiefs, the most
effectual means of withdrawing them from their idle and
vicious habits; and of bringing them      more readily under
the influence of our teachings in morality and religion.
Thur'sday, 23.   T'he leading female chiefs returned on
Saturday fron Hawaii, and sailed again this morning for
Taui, to visit Karaimoku, who has been iuccessful in putting down the insurrection; and has called a council of
the chiefs, to sanction his arrangements for the future government of that island.     George Tamoree, who has escaped death, will be brought to IHonoruru, and kept as a
prisoner at large.    The principles of Christianity have
been most happily exhibited by Karaimoku and his chiefs,
in the prosecution of the war: it has been conducted with
as little as possible of the former sanguinary spirit of their
conflicts. The rebel party proved small in number and
weak in power, all avowedly pagans, with George, a professed sceptic, at their head.
* Although George Tamoree, or HwNuehuma, as he was denominated
by the people, headed the rebels, the war did iot probably originate with
him. A day or two before his death, Trauilarii, his late father, made
his will. I was present on the occasion, and heard him distinctly and
explicitly state, in the presence of the assetr.i n i chijefs, his desire that,
at his decease, the ships he possessed, the fort, and arms, and ammunition, together with the islands of Taui and Nitau, should be given to
Karaimoku for the king RihoRiho, then absent in England. When Karaimoku, with about forty followers, event down to fix the future governnent of the Islands, many o the chiefs brought him presents, thereby
paying him homage as their ctlief  Among otetrs, 4 eorge was proceeding down the river from his district, with it canoe laden with provision
and fruits for Karaimoku, who by Tauruarii had been appointed his
guardian.  Tiaimakaui, who was the most. artise promoter of the war,
with several other warrior chiefs, met hit, stopped his canoe, and said,
"You shall not pay him homage, neitllhr will we; come with us, you
shall be our king; the Island- are yours, as '.i cy were your fathers; you
shall be king, and we are the nae koa warriors. Much will fight for you."
George carried not his present, united with mietr, formed a party, and
took a principal share in the attack and subsequent war. Tiaimauki, after committing an act of most barbarous and treaclherous murder in the
onset, was afterwards slain, and his body treated with great indignity.
Among the friends of Karaimoku, who were slain in the attack on the
fort, there was a fine tall intelligent young Englishman, whose name was
Trowbridge. He had left the ship in which he reached the Islands, and
commanded one of the vessels belonging to Karaimoku, by whom he was
highly respected.-W. E.




240


PROCLAMATION OF LAWS.


The whole result of this commotion promises to be propitious instead of adverse to the cause of Christianity.
The chiefs have felt their dependence on the Mission for
right counsel in a time of anxiety and emergency; have
experienced the happy consequences of our instructions
in meliorating the horrors of warfare; and have, apparently, fixed their confidence and affection upon us with
fresh warmth and firmness.
Before leaving Lahaina, Kaahumanu gave orders to the
head-men of all the districts of Maui, to have the following laws proclaimed by herald to all the people. First,
" There shall be no murder —referring especially to the
crime of infanticide. Second, " There shall be no drunkenness, no boxing, no fighling."  Third, " There shall be
no theft."  Fourth, c "ll the people must regard the Sabbath."  Fifth," When schools are established, all the people
must learn."  Her departure, this morning, was among
the most interesting scenes we have yet known with the
chiefs. A messenger requesting an interview before her
embarkation, called us early to her dwelling. At the
weekly lecture, yesterday afternoon, she appeared deeply
interested, and wept much, during my sermon from the
text, " Thy word is a lamp unto my feet, and a light to my
path." At the close of the exercises she was asked why
she wept; to which she replied-"' Oh! it is so true that the
word of God is a lamp and a light. In former days, we
were all in thick darkness. We wandered here, and we
wandered there, and stumbled on this side and on that side,
and were all hastening to the dreadful precipice down
which our fathers have fallen! But now, the word of God
has come to us, and I now see the darkness and the light.
I now see the path that leads to heaven! And I weep because God has been so good as to send the light of his
word to us poor people!" She seemed to be still in the
same softened state of feeling, and in her countenance,
manners, dress, and whole deportment, appeared more
like a Christian, than we had before seen her. Almost
immediately after our first salutation, she requested to
have worship by a hymn and prayer; after which she called
forward three young men belonging to her private school
-informed us she had appointed them teachers for her




KAAHUMANU.                 241
people on the windward side of Maui-and desired that
they might be supplied with books sufficient for large
schools. She then addressed herself to the headmen of
that district who were present, commanding them to have
good school-houses erected immediately, and to order all
the people in her name to attend to the palapala, and the
pule. She also commended us, with Pupuhi, and Taua,
the Tahitian, to the protection and care of the governess
of Lahaina, who was of the company, charging her to supply all our wants; and finally turning to us, said: " Great
is our affection for you. Whatever we have is yours.
Want for nothing that we have. If you are hungry, ask
the governess, and she will send you food. Want for nothing:-for great is our affection for you."
Her sister Hoapiriwahine then joined with her in calling
for another hymn and prayer, at the conclusion of which,
parting salutations were exchanged, and they hastened to
their boats. We could not avoid remarking the effect of
this interview on Puaiti, our blind friend. He seemed
ready to kiss her feet, for gratitude and joy at the decided
stand this powerful Regent was taking in favour of Christianity, and would not let go his grasp of her hand till her
barge had pushed off from the beach, and he was mid-deep
in water. Taua, too, seemed equally elated, and repeatedly exclaimed to us, " Itaita roa e Kaahumanu-itaita
roa!-itaita no! laakhumanu!"  "Very strong (firm,
zealous, decided,) is Kaahumanu-very strong! decided
indeed is Kaahumanu!"
Jan. 1, 1825. My first note at this date, my dear
iM. —, must in part, at least, be retrospective. Since
October, I have kept brief notes only of passing occurrences; owing principally to an unexpected visit at Oahu,
to the full occupation of my time with other duties while
there, and to the accumulation of business during my absence, which required immediate attention on my return,
We have also been much engaged, during the last month,
in making preparations to go to that island, by the first favourable opportunity, to spend the winter. The duties of
the station at Honoruru, since the embarkation of Mr.
Ellis for England, including at present the formation of
one or two new books, and the superintendence of the
21




242           EXCURSION TO OAIIU.
press, are such as to make it desirable that Mr. Bingham
should have an assistant preacher, at least for a few
months; and several circumstances combine to make it
most proper, that myself and family should be the persons
to remove there.
My passage to Oahu was in the whale ship Enterprise,
Captain Weeks, a gentleman among the most esteemed of
the friends we have met in the Pacific: and in whose officers and ship we have taken a lively interest. Nothing of
particular importance occurred while I was at Oahu; and
after a visit of three weeks, I returned home in one of the
native pilot-boats.
Thus, you have a hasty. outline of the last six weeks
with us: and to the present date, when we all enter on
another of the larger divisions of time. Not one word of
all that has befallen you and yours, during the whole year
just past, has reached us-though, doubtless, much has
taken place within your own walls, and the circle of our
immediate family friends, of deeper interest to us, than
any thing we have transmitted, or can transmit, from the
loneliness and almost unchanging sameness of these
dreary abodes.
I have just had a more serious debate in my own mind,
than at any former time, as to the advantage of continuing
to write to you in the form I have thus far done, or not.
I have thrown little that can interest into my past journals.
All that I have said of the scenery and natural productions
of the islands; of the people; their general appearance,
manners, habits, &c. &c. has been so very incidental and
commonplace. I have been led to continue them thus for
a time, only from the hope that they might become more
worthy your attention in these respects; but experience
teaches me to fear, that my duties as a missionary will
compel me to write to you hereafter, even in a more hasty
manner than I have yet done; and necessarily cause all
that I say to be of the same desultory and imperfect character as the past.
You must remember, that the situation I am in, and the
various and constant calls on my time and attention, place
me in very different circumstances from the visiter of a
few months, or a year, at the islands, or of the voyager




CONTEMPLATED EXCURSION.


243


who comes only to explore them. These have nothing to
confine them day after day, and month after month, to the
narrow limits of a single settlement or village, but are at
liberty both in body and mind, to scour the country through
valley and over mountain, till they have filled their note
books with observations, and their port-folios with drawings:
whereas we are so situated in a variety of respects, as to
make an excursion of a day, a matter of consultation and
considerable previous arrangement. For instance, we do
not think it proper that Mr. Richards and myself, should
both be absent from the mission houses at the same time,
except for an hour or two: the duties of the mission almost daily call one of us away more or less; and the
other, of course, feels it necessary to remain near the premises.
Impediments of this kind are so various and almost
constant, that I have never yet had a convenient opportunity of visiting even the mountains that rise within three
miles of the sea side, and whose winding glens, dark forests, and towering summits, as seen from our enclosure,
promise a rich compensation to the lover of nature, for the
toil that would accompany a visit to them. This would
not have been the case however, were a walk of an hour or
two, or of an afternoon or morning, sufficient for the excursion. A long day, at least, wvould be necessary to enable one to ascend the nearest, and reach home again before night. In going, there must also be a choice of time,
for it very frequently rains on their tops, at all times of the
year, and nine times tut of ten, they are covered with
clouds. A guide would be necessary, and persons to carry
water; &c. &c.; so that you must not condemn me for a
want of curiosity and taste, in having lived for eighteen
months in full sight of some of the most picturesque
and lofty mountains of the Pacific, without visiting them,
till you have taken into consideration the preparations necessary for the undertaking; besides the want of leisure
and the difficulty of leaving home, even for a day, in continuance. Every deep valley, and every elevated peak,
about " the sources of the Susquehanna," can testify to my
love of rambling; and were it equally accessible, the
finest scenery of my adopted country should bear witness




244


EMPLOYMENT OF A DAY.


to my love of  the sublime and beautiful:" but were I
again with you, I could cross and recross one half the
hills that encircle your lovely lake, in less time and
with less fatigue, than I could pass up the nearest ravine,
or ascend the lowest of the mountains in our vicinity.
Should we live, Mr. Richards and myself design, in the
course of a few months to make the tour of Maui; in
which case, I may have it in my power to give you a full
description of it, with a variety of other matter. It has
also been proposed that I should make the tour of Oahu,
in company with Mr. Bingham, during my anticipated visit
this winter, which will also afford subjects for the pen and
pencil: in both cases we have a double object in viewobservations on the islands, and the preaching of the everlasting gospel to their numerous population.
The blessings of a new year meet us in circumstances
of more than ordinary quiet and regularity, and the order
of our little cabin is more systematic than it has been since
our establishment on the islands.
The sketch of a day at present will give you the regular
engagements of a month; and in its peaceful progress, I
can assure you, we find no inconsiderable degree of contentment and happiness. We generally rise with the sun,
and spend the first hour in religious and devotional reading; breakfast at eight o'clock, a frugal meal, as we are
entirely without butter, sugar, and coffee; and immediately
after have family worship. The hours from nine to twelve,
Mr. Richards and myself devote to the study of the native
language, and to the preparation of exercises for some one
of the native religious meetings. At ten o'clock in the
morning, and at five in the afternoon, Kekauonohi, the
youngest queen of RihoRiho, and one of her favourite female friends, an interesting and intelligent girl of fifteen,
come with their retinue to study, under the direction of
H ---; while the young princess and another scholar
visit Mrs. Richards for the like purpose, at the same
hours.
After dinner we devote an hout to miscellaneous reading,
of which the periodical publications sent trom America,
and our united libraries, form a tolerable collection. I
then visit the schools, call on the chiefs, and afterwards




DOMESTIC SCENES.


245


walk to our garden, about a half mile from the beach, on
the plantation given us by Karaimoku, on our first arrival
at Lahaina. This I have succeeded in reducing to a
regular form, have enclosed it by rows of bananas, planted
the grape, pine-apple, orange, and tamarind, besides a
variety of vegetables, and some choice shrubs and flowers;
and in its cultivation and improvement have great amusement, and much promised future delight. In these walks
I am often accompanied by H ---      and C —, while
B-     is engaged in a fine school kept by her every afternoon, in the chapel adjoining our yard.
As to our evenings, though it is now our winter, they
are ushered in with little of that lux'ry of confori, which
the Christian poet must often have felt, before he could so
sweetly have sung,
Now stir the fire, and close tile shutters fast,
Let fall the curtains, wheel the sofa round,
And, while the bubbling and loud hissing urn
Throws up a steamy column, and the cups
That cheer but not inebriate, wait on each,
So let us welcome peaceful evening in:
Still evening is the pleasantest portion of the day. Our
yard is no longer crowded by noisy natives, whose chiefs
are lounging about our writing-desks and work-tables.
C   - forgets his mischief and his play, in the sweetness
of infantile sleep; all out of doors is silent, except the
restless surf; and we are left without interruption, renewedly to apply ourselves to this unformed language, that
we may be qualified for more extensive usefulness in the
stations we occupy.  At nine o'clock, we turn to the
Bible, which we are studying with Scott and tlenry's
Commentaries, and, after an hour spent in reading, and
in passing an examination on the portion which occupied
our attention on the preceding night, we again have family
worship, and retire to rest usually between ten and eleven
o'clock.
Our regular public duties with the natives are, two sermons on the Sabbath; a weekly lecture every Wednes- 
day; a meeting for conversation and prayer every Friday
afternoon; and the monthly concert on the first Monday
of every month. We have worship in English every
21$




246       SACRAMENTS ADMINISTERED.
Sabbath, but only read a sermon, unless there are ships
at the anchorage. Such is the employment of our time
in this heathen land, and such the routine of duty which
our little cottage in a greater or less degree daily witnesses; and had we, in addition to our present sources of
happiness, only a ready, were it but an occasional, access
to the society of those friends, around whom, far as they
are from us, our warm affections are daily hovering, I
could most sincerely exclaim,
" 0 blest seclusion from a jarring world,
Which we, thus occupied, enjoy!Had we the choice of sublunary good,
What could we wish that we possess not here!"
Sabbath evening, Jan. 2. Though I wrote so fully
yesterday, I would not pass over the present day without
at least one word of notice. Like the first Sabbath of
the last year, this has been distinguished to us, by the administration of both the sacraments of the Christian
church. The exercises of the morning were divided between Mr. Richards and myself, by his preaching the sermon, and my baptizing the infant daughter of Taua, our
Tahitian assistant, and afterwards distributing the elements of the Lord's Supper to the little company of disciples; who, in the seclusion and darkness of this island,
are from time to time, permitted to eat bread and drink
wine, in remembrance of their crucified Redeemer. Hundreds of the natives, chiefs and people, were present, and
formed a most orderly and attentive audience. The exhibition of the broken body and shed blood of Jesus
Christ, was uncommonly solemn and affecting, and drew
tears, not only from those who had a part in it, but from
the eyes of many who were only spectators of the scene.
Several of the chiefs, Puaiti, the blind man, and a young
English sailor present, wept almost convulsively.
The exercises of spirit manifested at this service, in
our humble chapel-the tenderness, the solemnity, the
peaceful enjoyment, evident in those, who in attempting
to trust themselves beneath " the shadow of the wings of
the Almighty, drank from the rivers of his pleasure, and
were satisfied with the fatness of his house;" theseriousness, the attention, the tears of those who witnessed the




HEAD AND NECK ORNAMENTS.


247


affecting ordinance-all combined to make it to our souls
a happy beginning of the Sabbaths of another year; a
beginning well calculated to strengthen our faith, to excite our hope, and influence our zeal in the discharge of
the duties which crowd upon us, in this region of darkness
and of the shadow of death. I think the present has surpassed every Sabbath we have yet attempted to sanctify
with the heathen. Oh, my sister, how much do I wish,
that the friends and supporters of missions to the Pagan
world, could be present at such scenes as we are permitted here weekly and almost daily to witness. Many, very
many of the hundreds, who crowd to the worship of
God to-day, seem, at least by their actions, to say
" How amiable are thy tabernacles, 0 Lord of Hosts!"
And the decency and order of their behaviour, the motionless posture, the fixed eye, and flowing tears, as they
hung on the lips of the speaker, as if to catch the words
of eternal life, must have touched the sensibility of the
man, while they would have melted the heart of the Christian. The love and gratitude too, that they manifest as
they press round us at the conclusion of the service, the
many anxious inquiries they make, when any one of our
number is indisposed, all prove that " the feet of them
that publish,Yood tidings on these dark mountains, are indeed beautiful in their eyes."  May the Lord bless his
truth to their everlasting salvation.
Thursday, 6. The young queen Kakauonohi, has just
sent a little present to H —, which reminds me of saying something on a subject, which has often attracted my
observation-the fondness of the natives for ornaments of
the head and neck; and how much in their view full dress
consists in proper attention to these. The present is a
neatly formed triple wreath of orange coloured flowers,
the blossom of the ilina, (gardenia;) a handsome shrub
from two to four feet high, which, on account of its bright
hue and delicate perfume, is cultivated on almost every
plantation, expressly for the purpose of wearing on the
head and neck. Though so simple in its character, it
probably cost the persons who made it, almost, if not
quite, as much time and patience as many a more valuable one has an expert milliner, in more polished nations.




248    HEAD AND NECK ORNAMENTS.


It is about two yards in length, and is formed, not by arranging the flowers together in the state they are in when
broken from the bush, but by carefully separating the
calyx and corolla of every blossom, and stringing the latter through the centre, so closely together that nothing is
seen, when the wreath is completed, but the edges of the
petals, which at a little distance have the softness and
richness of feathers or velvet. I have seen the princess
with eight or ten yards thus formed, on her head and neck
at one time; and though each wreath is half an inch or
more in diameter, the effect, as an ornament, was light
and graceful.
These wreaths form the most common ornament of the
head and neck, and every high chief is furnished with three
or four yards of them every morning.
A kind equally common among the chiefs, but more
highly valued on account of their stronger perfume, are
formed from a part of the fruit or berry of the IIala (a
species of the Palm.) These also are of a bright orange
colour, but much more heavy, and less becoming than the
former. On public occasions, the chiefs generally wear
feathers only, both for coronets and necklaces. These are
generally yellow, but often formed of successive clusters
of red, yellow, green and black feathers. An ornament
for the neck, formerly much worn by the high chiefs, but
now confined almost entirely to those of inferior standing,
is the paraoa. It consists of a greater or less quantity of
finely braided human hair, fastened together so as barely
to encircle the neck, having a hooked or highly polished
ornament, made from the tooth of a whale, attached to the
middle in front. Some of these contain sixty or eighty
yards only of the braid, while others consists of four hundred and more; they are all hereditary badges of rank,
and are only worn by those who have some claim to chieftainship. The use of this last is principally confined to
females; but all others are worn indiscriminately, by both
sexes. Another favourite wreath for the neck, from the
king to his pipe lighter, is composed of loosely arranged
clusters of the maire, an aromatic vine, found in great
abundance in the mountains, not unlike the myrtle in the
shape of its leaf, &c. but of a more lively colour.




IIEAD AND NECK ORNAMENTS.          249
The handsorst wreath I have ever seen, not entirely
of feathers, was one worn by Kaahumanu, the morning
she last left Lahaina, in September. It consisted of yellow feathers, among which the blossoms of the purple globe
amaranthus, were ingeniously and tastefully disposed. I
have seen a few necklaces of shells, both land and sea.Those made of whale's teeth are very common. The
only kind of bracelet that is worn, consists of two shells
of various degrees of beauty, fastened on the back of the
wrist by a small cord of cotton or silk, formerly of grass
or hemp only.
The common people are as fond of ornaments of these
kinds as the chiefs, and you scarce see the poorest of
them of either sex, or of any age, without them. You
seldom meet any one at work on his farm, bringing water
from the interior of the settlement, or wood from the
mountains, without witnessing some exhibition of his
ingenuity and taste, in the arrangement of a wreath for
his head. There is scarce any thing in the vegetable kingdom produced on the islands, that is not made subservient
to this purpose, either in root, branch, flower or fruit; and
so great is the variety in the construction and combination
of them, that on almost any public occasion, with but
little aid of the imagination, one might at a single glance,
recognise all the boasted crowns of republican Rome,
from the rude civica, and humble obsidionalis, to the more
dignified and graceful triumphalis.
Red peppers, tomatoes, the blossoms of the sun-flower,
various arrangements of common Indian corn, either parched or in the state in which it is shelled firom the cob, as well
as the rich flowers of the amaranthus, and ohia leihua, (a
species of eutenia,) form a decoration for the head. The
American manner of dressing the hair is becoming common among the females of the higher ranks; but among
the lower classes, especially among those advanced in
years, the more customary mode is to wear the hair short
in front and on the sides of the head, and to turn up the
edges on the forehead and temples, with a wash made of
white clay or lime.
The manner of wearing any thing on the head is universally the same, being immediately on the top, from the




250    TEMPERATURE AND CLIMATE.


upper line of the forehead to the outer edge of the crown,
like the circles of light often seen in engravings of Saints.
These bandeaus and necklaces, and the bracelets of
shells constitute the entire dress above the waist, in which
the females generally appear, unless there be the addition
in some cases, of a silk or cotton handkerchief, tied round
the neck like a sling, and to which are suspended a small
circular or oblong looking glass set in wood, and a copper,
brass or silver mounted tobacco pipe.
Thus ornamented, with a new pau, of plain crimson or
orange, or of a variety of figures and colours, they walk
out with as much pride of dress, as a modern belle at
home in the full costume of fashion.
Jan. 13. WVe cannot write even at this season, from
these mild latitudes of "nipping frosts" and " drifting
snow;" still, even here winter comes
- - - to rule the varied year,
Sullen and sad, with all her rising train
Of vapours, clouds, and storms."
In the summer, scarce a cloud ever floats in the brightness
of our glowing skies; but in the winter, especially thus
far in the present season, we hlave much dark and lowering weather, with occasional heavy rains. For several
days past, all without doors, has been exceedingly gloomy;
and when I first rose this morning, while a green and
chilling surf was tumbling and flaming the whole distance
between the reef and shore, such impenetrable darkness
overspread the whole sea. that a vessel could not have
been seen, a dozen yards beyond the breakers.
The climate of the Islands is far more cool than might
be supposed, judging from the latitude in which they are
situated. This is partly owing to the vast unbroken body
of water by which they are surrolnded, but principally and
more immediately to the prevalence of the north-east trade
wind, which, during the larger portion of the year, sweeps
over and about them with great velocity, and, from the
direction in which it comes, and the surface over which it
passes, possesses no inconsiderable refrigerative power.
In the trade-wind, the mercury in Fahrenheits thermometer (in the shade) seldom rises higher than 80 and
82 deg., during the summer, and 72 and 74 deg., during
the winter.




ARRIVAL OF BRIG BECKET.           251
From the very great height of the mountains, however,
there are places and districts on the leeward or western
sides of some of the islands, which are inaccessible to the
regular wind, except when it becomes a gale, breaking
over the lower hills, and rushing in strong eddies round
the points and promontories, which at ordinary times form
a barrier to it. Lahaina is situated on one of these spots,
and probably is the hottest district in the group; the
mercury usually rising as high in winter here, as it does
in mid-summer where the trades prevail; and in summer
frequently to 88 and 89 deg.
During the summer months, or from March to October,
when the trade-wind is most strong and most regular,
Lahaina enjoys a pleasant, and often fresh sea-breeze;
but even then, there is not circulation enough to give it
the ventilation received wherever the former wind reaches.
In winter, when the trades are generally light, and often
interrupted entirely by calms and south-westerly winds,
the sea-breeze also becomes light and variable, and a
much greater stagnation of air takes place, rendered
doubly impure by exhalations from the taro beds and fishponds, which are numerous throughout the settlement.
These circumstances cause the climate of Lahaina to be
rather unfavourable to health.
As to clouds and rain, from March to October the at.
nosphere throughout all the Islands is usually clear and
bright, similar to your finest June weather. On the windward or eastern parts, however, there are almost daily
showers, and in the mountains not unfrequently continued
rains, from the lodgement of clouds against their tops and
sides. In most places on the leeward sides there are also
occasional showers; but at Lahaina scarcely a cloud, except on the mountains, is during the summer to be seen,
and a drop of rain during those months seldom falls.
From September to April the atmosphere is more or less
hazy, obscure and cloudy, with frequent light rains in
some places, and in others heavy storms of two or three
days' continuance. We have had three storms only, at
Lahaina, since our residence here, and they have been in
in December, January, and March.
Mlonday, Jan. 17. Yesterday morning the native brig,




252           MR. CHAMBERLAIN-*
Becket, arrived from Honoruru, and at twelve o'clock,
our friends Dr. and Mrs. Blatchely, and Mr. Hoffman,
mineralogist on board the Russian discovery ship, Captain
Kotzebue, now at Oahu, landed at the Mission House.
Mr. Hoffman is an interesting young man, apparently not
more than twenty-two or twenty-four years old, of highly
prepossessing appearance, and agreeable manners. He
makes his home with us while the brig remains; and we
feel ourselves happy in entertaining a guest of so much
intelligence and good breeding.
Wednesday, 19. At noon yesterday, we discovered the
pilot-boat Astor, bounding before a fresh breeze, over the
waters of the Morokai channel, and, in the course of an
hour, welcomed Mr. Chamberlain to Lahaina. lie is on
his way to Hido, on the east of Hawaii, with supplies for
Waiakea, and will spend a few days with us while the vessel is taking in a cargo of salt.
Mr. Chamberlain, in his station of Agent of the Mission, with the superintendence of secular concerns, is a
most indefatigable labourer, the servant of us all, and
literally (" a hewer of wood, and drawer of water."  In
entering the situation he now occupies, he relinquished a
partnership in a mercantile establishment of Boston, successfully engaged in business, with the most flattering
prospects of affluence, placed his capital in the stocks,
devoting the interest to the Missionary cause, and, in contrast to his former situation, may now almost daily be seen
at Honoruru, with a cheerful face and happy heart, driving
a team of oxen, or drawing a porter's barrow, from the
Mission House to the village; or in a coarse carman's
frock, toiling among the barrels and boxes of his storehouse.
For the last two days, Mr. Hoffman, attended by Mr.
Richards, has been scouring the country, in search of
specimens in mineralogy; and this afternoon I accompanied him in a walk to the foot of one of the mountains
immediately to the east of our settlement, for the same
object, but without meeting any thing new or particularly
interesting. The mineralogical kingdom here presents
little variety in its exhibitions; every thing is almost exclusively volcanic, and in forms long familiar to the scien



MR. HOFFMAN, MINERALOGIST.


253


tific world. The arrangement and combination of these
forms, however, are frequently such as to create admiration and astonishment; especially on Hawaii, which in
this respect, taken as a whole, including the sublime and
fearful exhibitions of the great crater of Kirauea, is among
the greatest phenomena of the Pacific.
The Becket sails for Kairua to-morrow, and carries
from us all our visiters, excepting Mr. Chamberlain.
While at my writing-desk this evening, Mr. Hoffman left
on a sheet of paper the name of his ship, and a list of her
officers, as a little memento of his visit.
This gave rise to some remarks on the character of
Captain Kotzebue; among other things Mr. Hoffman
stated, that he was a great admirer of Washington. During the morning, in looking over some papers preparatory
to my visit to Honoruru, I had found in the folds of one
of my pocket-books, a sprig of evergreen plucked from a
tree on the humble tomb of our illustrious countryman,
when I visited Mount Vernon, in 1821. I immediately
handed it to Mr. Hoffman, saying, " If Captain Kotzebue
admires Washington, even this trifle will he thought acceptable by him;" but the moment he knew its origin, with
enthusiastic earnestness, though not without evident embarrassment at the liberty taken of directing it from the
person mentioned, he exclaimed, " JVon, non, Monsieur,
non Kotzebue, moi-menme, moi-nmne;" " No, no, Sir, not
Kotzebue, not Kotzebue; myself! myself!"-to which
I most readily assented; and added as a testimony of my
personal regard, what I had before designed for that purpose, a neat pocket edition of the Testament in French,
the language in which we had attempted to hold most of
our conversations.
Saturday, 29. The Becket came to anchor yesterday
afternoon, from Hawaii, and we are again favoured with
the society of the interesting young naturalist from the
Pretpriatie. Tuesday next is the day fixed for sailing for
Oahu.
Monday, 31. For a year past, except in one or two
instances, we have scarce heard the sounds of the native
songs and dances.  But an expected heir, in a high
branch of the Pitt family, has filled the minds of some of
22




254


DREAM OF PUAITI.


the chiefs and people, not particularly interested in the
palapala and the pule, (learning and religion,) with a desire
for the renewal of former expressions of joy on such
occasions-among which songs and dances, in honour of
the young chief at his birth, were some of the most
favourite. These persons have for some time had pieces
in preparation for the event. The rehearsal of such as,
technically speaking, are thus " getting up," disturb the
peacefulness and quietude of our nights; and the groves
around us, especially since an unclouded moon has been
on the increase, are filled till daybreak, with the dull and
monotonous drumming of the calabash and musical sticks,
accompanied by the more piercing and equally rude and
inharmonious intonations of the voice.
Our governess, Wahine Pio, sister of Mr. Pitt, (Karaimoku) is the grandmother of the expected chief. She
has never been distinguished for her attachment to the
new system of things, and is supposed to have ordered
the practisings of the hura. The common people, desirous of having the dances, have sedulously encouraged a
report in circulation, that Karaimoku, still at Tauai, has
sent orders to the windward islands, to have all attention
to the palapala and pule, except the observance of the
Sabbath, suspended for the present, and to have all the
people engage in the dances, as was formerly the case,
when thousands joined at one time in the same performance. These circumstances have given rise to one or two
anecdotes, which have just reached me, shewing the light
in which the palapala party view the subject.
Kekauonohi, the youngest queen of RihoRiho, (a pupil
of H —,) is the daughter of Wahine Pio. She has
been indisposed for a few days, and her mother has lodged
at her house for a night or two. Before sunrise this morning our warm friend Puaiti, who is ever awake to every
thing that interests the cause of learning and piety, came
to our houses, and said to Mr. Richards —" I heard a voice
in the night, when all were asleep, in the house of Kekauonohi; it was" (proceeding to repeat a dialogue between
the daughter and mother) "thus"-K. "Ha!-Wahine
- Pio-Wahine Pio!" to which W. P. replied, "what is
it "  }K. "I am the daughter, and you are the mother-I




LETTER OF KARAIKOA.


255


am a child, and you are an old chief-it is yours to command-it is mine to obey-it is yours to speak-it is mine
to listen: but I am wise and you are dark hearted-you
do not fear God nor regard his word, therefore hear mehave no hura in Lahaina-the hura is not good."  W. P.
" I have not commanded a hura!" K. i "Then forbid it."
W. P. " Karaimoku may desire it, and may send orders
to have a general huma."  K. " Karaitnoku will not desire
one: if he does, do you not comply: 1 will make your
peace. with Karaimoku."  W. P. " It shall be so, I will
not have a hura, I will attend to the word of God."
Karaikoa, who has prepared a communication for Karaitoku, to go by the Becket, thus introduces his letter" Love to you Karaimoku. We have heard a report at
Lahaina; we have heard that you have had a dance. I
have a question to ask you-is it true? If it is, I will say,
that I am not glad. Will you send to us to have a dance?
If you do, we will not regard your order; for the song
and the dance are not good-they belong to the darkness
of former days. We sung and danced enough then, in
the ignorance of our hearts; the light has now come-let
us do so no more, but let us attend only to the good word
of God."
We are satisfied that the report in reference to Karaimoku is false, and that he has not commanded, or even
countenanced, the spirit of dissipation existing in some.
CHAPTER XIII.
HONORURU.
Mission House, Ionoruru, Feb. 4, 1825.  We are
again, my dear M —, visiters at this station.  We
embarked on board the Becket, on the evening of the 1st
instant, and arrived here the next morning to a late breakfast. Although the night was very cool for this climate,
the thermometer standing at 64 deg. Fahrenheit, we all
kept the deck, in preference to enduring the confined air
of the cabin.
H —    was extremely ill, as were C. and B.  Could




256


VISIT TO THE PRETPRIATIE.


you have seen them lying on the open deck of a dirty
native brig, and witnessed their extreme illness, with no
attendant but myself during the whole night, you would
have thought with us, that the passages we are obliged to
make in such vessels, are among the greatest trials of our
missionary residence at the islands.
We are delightfully situated, for Missionaries I mean,
with our invaluable friends Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, in the
stone cottage built by Mr. Ellis.  Oahu never before
looked so beautiful; for the first time since we arrived at
the Islands, the whole of the extensive plain, on which
Honoruru and the Mission Houses are, is covered with
verdure, and appears like one continued field of grain, in
the early months of the spring; the grass being coarse,
and of a light green colour. The greater purity of the
air than that of Lahaina is also very perceptible, and
makes us feel that Oahu, so far as we are capable of judging, is the JAonipellier of the Sandwich Islands: owing
to the prevalence of the trade-winds, which sweep over
the mountains-not here, as on most of the other islands,
so high as to form a barrier against them. Every part of
the island is thus constantly ventilated, and preserved from
any degree of the stagnation to which Lahaina is subject.
Our young friend Hoffman, a fellow passenger from
Maui, was met on the wharf with warm embraces byhis
friends of the Pretpriatie. The handsome dresses and
gentlemanly appearance of these voyagers of the enterprising Czar, give an additional aspect of civilization to
Honorurt. Mr. Hoffman, with some of his friends, visits
us every day. He takes tea with us this evening; after
which we are to go to an observatory erected for astronomical purposes on shore, with the special design of
viewing the planet Saturn through a fine telescope.
Monday, 7. On Saturday, Mr. Bingham and myself
took tea, and passed the evening on board the Pretpriatie.
She is a well-built, substantial, and fine ship, of twentytwo guns, constructed under the direction of Captain
Kotzebue, expressly for the voyage she is now performing.
Her deck is remarkably handsome, and the accommodations of the officers and crew very convenient. The Captai's cabin is large, airy, and well, but not handsomely,




DESCRIPTION OF PRETPRIATIE.


257


furnished-no carpets nor drapery. The chairs, sofa,
tables, and sideboard, are of plain mahogany, with one or
two large mirrors. The most ornamental article is a richly
painted half-length portrait of Alexander of Russia; to
which may be added a smaller engraved likeness of the
same noble character, exquisitely finished, and said to be
much more correct than the former. It is the production
of a French artist, executed at the time the Emperor was
in Paris.
The officers' cabin is separated from the captain's by the
companion-way, and is fitted so as to afford, besides a
comfortable dining and sitting room, a large state room for
each of the lieutenants, midshipmen, and naturalists. Immediately forward of this, is the forecastle, where the
crew, one hundred in number, are neatly and conveniently
accommodated. One end of this apartment is used as a
chapel, and furnished with an altar, a shrine of the Virgin
Mary, a tolerably executed Madonna, one or two crosses,
and a painting of our Saviour, surrounded by portraits of
the Apostles, in twelve compartments of the same frame.
Every Saturday evening there is a public service, and
we were gratified by the opportunity of witnessing the
ceremonies of the Greek church. On this occasion, they
consisted of the servi es of the rubric in Sclavonic,
prayers, lessons, chants, the offering of incense by the
priest, who officiated in an embroidered mantle of green,
crimson, and gold; the kissing of the Bible and of a
cross, at the close of the service, held by the priest to
each individual, after the benediction. There was no
exhortation, nor any thing in the form of preaching. During
the ceremonies, which occupied more than an hour, the
crew stood six abreast, three on the starboard and three
on the larboard side, in regular lines from the altar to the
bows, observed the greatest order, and seemed to listen
with suitable solemnity to the worship. The officers,
among whom we took our places, formed a group immediately behind the chaplain, and, by their apparent reverence and devotion, set a commendable example to the
crew. Their full, deep-toned voices, and, in some instances, good taste in singing, added mucho t he effect of
22*




INTERVIEW WITH KAAHUMANU.


the chants and anthems, the choruses of which, in two or
three instances, were very fine.
Though, in the whole, there was a striking want of that
simplicity, which we believe, characterized the primitive
church of Christ, still we could but regard with tender interest and complacency, a scene in which so large, so
youthful, and so noble a company, publicly and solemnly
testified their remembrance and fear of God; rather
than in uniting in the shameless exhibitions of wickedness, which too often, by day and by night, scandalize the
Christian name, of ships at anchor at these islands.
Within the last two days. there have been arrivals both
from the leeward and windward stations, and the very animating letters received by them from the Missionaries and
chiefs, promise a more interesting state of things in the
Mission, than we have yet known.
Wednesday 9.  Yesterday morning, Mr. Hoffman and
myself, after an early cup of coffee, visited the salt lake,
of which, I have already given you a description. The
morning was so fine, the air so pure and bracing, that
without any exertion or fatigue, we returned in time to
dine with the family at 1 o'clock. Before reaching the
village, we descried a sail, coming from Tauai; it proved
to be the native brig Ainoa, which came to anchor just
after dark. Shortly after, a messenger from the royal
family arrived, requesting a visit from us to Kaahumanu,
who had been absent some months to the leeward, and had
just landed.
Our interview with her and the heads of the nation, was
uncommonly pleasant and interesting. We found them
in one of the upper rooms of her new house, on the point.
The room was well lighted by several handsome glass
lamps, and was furnished with a neat Chinese sofa, under
a large and richly framed looking-glass; two mahogany
card-tables covered with expensive cloths of orange and
blue, and three large field bedsteads hung with drapery of
beautiful figured yellow merino cloth. On the floor, in
the middle of the room, which was spread with new mats,
of the finest and handsomest kind, the group was seated;
consisting of Kaahumanu, in the centre, Karaimoku on
one side, the queens of RihoRiho on the other-while the




PLEASING REFLECTIONS.            259
sisters of Kaahumanu, Keariiahomu, her husband (a son
of Taumuarii) Laanui, Tahitona, a Tahitian, (private tutor
and chaplain of Kaahumanu and Keariiahonui) and two
or three confidential attendants, made up the circle. They
were all well dressed, and apparently most happy in the
arrival of the regent and queen.
The first salutation we received from Kaahumanu, was
in these words-" We are saved by Jesus Christ," or " Je
sus Christ is our salvation;" and the whole conversation
of the evening was on the subject of religion alone, which
seemed to be the only topic of their thoughts and desires.
When I recollected what they once were, noisy, drunken,
debauched, disgusting idolators, and observed the sobriety
of their appearance, the mildness of their manners, the
piety of their conversation, and the tenderness and affection of their looks and expressions to us, while my heart
deeply felt the power of the contrast, and most sincerely
blessed God for what my eyes saw and my ears heard, I
was most forcibly reminded of a little circumstance which
gave rise to a happy train of thought and feeling, during
our first voyage to Lahaina.
Shortly after our arrival at the islands, as you know, we
were almost immediately separated from the rest of the
mission family, and sent alone to Maui. Not yet familiarized to the noise, the rudeness, and the nakedness of
the natives, and in a degree ignorant of the general mildness and harmlessness of their character, for the first few
hours, at least, on finding ourselves surrounded by 200 of
them, we naturally felt, in some respects, exposed to trials
and dangers; we knew that the " tender mercies" of the
heathen are " cruel," and felt ourselves completely in their
power. While indulging in reflections of this character,
I accidentally raised my eyes to the main top of the barge,
and very much to my surprise, in the device on the top
cloth, found a subject of meditation, that totally changed
the character of my feelings, and so effectually lulled
every apprehension to rest, that I have never known one
of the kind since. It was a sketch from Isa. xi. 6. " The
wolf also shall dwell with the lamb, and the leopard shall
lie down with the kid; and the calf, and the young lion, and
the fatting together; and a little child shall lead them."




`260     DEPARTURE OP PRBTPRlATTE.
After a half hour's general conversation, they requested
to hayve a hymn and prayers; at the close of which we
retured home, greatly pleased with our interview, and
withl the happy prospects which the engagedness of the
chiefs presents forthe nation at large.
After breakfast this morning, the whole company, including the young prince, who had not come on shore last
iBight, came to the chapel to return public thanks for their
Tafe return to Oahu, and happy meeting with their friends.
Saturday, 12. We were last evening called to part
with our Russians friends of the Pretpriatie, which left
the harbour early this morning, and now looks only like a
lofty spire in the midst of the ocean as she is gently securing an offing from the island before night. We have
formed a pleasant acquaintance with several of her officers,
though only one, besides Captain Kotzebue, speaks much
English. But none has taken such hold on our hearts as
the interesting and accomplished young Hoffman; he has
been so constantly in our family, has so greatly commended himself to our love by his intelligence and good
breeding, by the warmth and polish of his manners, by the
tenderness of his heart, and by a thousand evidences of a
virtuous and amiable spirit, that our parting embraces
were more like those of long beloved and bosom friends,
than of strangers whose acquaintance has been only of a
day. In company with his friend Count Hayden, he took
tea at the Mission House, and spent his last hours on shore
with us. We feel sad at every remembrance of him, and
our prayers hover round the ship that bears him from us,
as we see her fading from our sight forever.
Feb. 24. Kaahumanu does not enjoy very good health,
and by the advice of Dr. Law, her private physician, has
retired three or four miles up one of the valleys, east of
Honoruru, for the benefit of the mountain air. Those
unacquainted with the attention and respect required by
the chiefs from their inferiors of all ranks, would scarce
believe the bustle which this movement of her majesty has
created. The removal of the court of Great Britain from
St. James' to Windsor Castle or to Brighton, would not
produce half the change, in the " West End" at London,
that is perceptible among the fashionables of our metropolis.




1iOVEL MANNER OP RIDING.          261
The road leading to the retreat of the queen, has been
almost constantly marked by the equipages (two or three
single horse waggons) of the nobility, and by crowds of
more humble gentry on foot, with hundreds of attendants
and servants, bearing furniture and provisions and a variety
of luggage.
Karaimoku and his family, which since the absence of
RihoRiho, has included the young queens Kekauruohi,
Pauahi, Kinau, and (at present) Kekauonohi, are the only
grandees that remain at Honoruru.  I he etiquette of the
Court seems to demand their presence, at least occasionally; and though Kaahumanu only left on the morning of
the 22d, they have just returned this evening from spending the day with her.
We were quite amused with their appearance, as they
approached the ]Mission House.  Karaimoku lead the
cavalcade, in a neat yellow waggon, drawn by a fine, and
well harnessed horse: his wife, the queens, and his trusty
and confidential friends, were on horseback; while their
respective retinues, making a large crowd, ran after them
on foot, bearing the badges of their distinction, and spittoons and tobacco boxes, the inseparable appendages of
their persons.
The queens were objects of special notice as exhibiting
something entirely novel. The horses they rode were gay
and spirited, and being unaccustomed to riding, and accommodated with men's saddles only, they rode astride, instead
of being seated as females usually are in America and
in England. Being very modestly dressed however, there
was nothing particularly objectionable in their attitude;
especially as it seemed requisite to the safety of their
royal persons. They wore handsome slips of a variety
of colours, made close in the neck, and deep pays, or
native female dresses over them. As usual, when coming
from* the country, their heads, necks, and indeed almost
the whole of their figures, were covered with garlands of
flowers, and wreaths of evergreens; which had a pretty
effect, especially those that were gracefully entwined in
their black hair, which hung, from the exercise they were
taking, in loose and careless locks on their necks and
shoulders. They sat and rode well, and as far as we
could see them, came on a full canter.




262    DEATH OF THE KING AND QUEEIN.
March 10. The ships Peru and Almira came into
port this morning. They are directly from America, and
have brought letters and papers from some of our friends,
and considerable supplies for the Mission. But every
other feeling is lost in the melancholy intelligence of the
death of our friends Kamehamaru and RihoRiho. The
truth is a shock to us;:< much so, that we frankly confess,
our tears are mingled with those of the chiefs and people,
who are almost overwlermed by the bereavement.  We
feel that we have lost those in whom we had a very deep
interest, if they did not possess our warm and tender love;
and there were circumstances in their embarkation, the
recollection of which witl always cause us to sigh, that
they were denied, against their own strong wish, and
against the wish of the Mission and of the nation, the privilege of having a pious teacher, interpreter, and guardian
with them.
We think it probible our friends in America will feel
some solicitude, lest the death of the king should prove
an occasion of insurrection and bloodshed in the islands;
but of this we have scarce had a thought, much less an
apprehension.  So long as the Prince Keauikeaouli lives,
the right of succession is indisputable. RihoRiho, in his
council with the chiefs, previous t, his embarkation, formally and publicly appointed him successor, in case he
should never return; and from the time of his departure,
the lad has been regarded, and officially addressed by the
chiefs and people, as their king. This has been more especially the case of late; so that the intelligence has produced little or no chance in his standing in the government,
and none in his title, except the assumption of the name
of Tamehameha III., as the official signature of the successor of RihoRiho.
In every respect, a kind Providence seems to have been
preparing the way most happily for the arrival of tfle tidings; and the chiefs in power were never before in a
state so favourable to political integrity and peace. Auspicious as the whole history of this Mission has been ever
since its establishment, still the last three months must be
regarded as the commencement of a new and more happy
era in its progress, than had previously been known,




GENERAL STATE OF NATION.          263
We have every reason to believe that the principles of
eternal truth, with the sanctions from which they are inse.
parable, which for near five years have been enforced on
the minds and the hearts of the leaders of this people, are
beginning to have their destined and desired effect on their
characters and lives; and that many of the most powerful
of them, from the fear of God and a sincere love of his
righteousness, are ceasing in heart to do evil, and learning
to do well.
The young king, and every chief of any importance,
have regular family worship with their respective households morning and evening, never take a meal without
thanksgiving, observe the Sabbath with becoming propriety, attend all the religious instructions, and studiously
avoid every kind of amusement and pastime, not consistent with strict sobriety and Christian decorum. Their
whole minds and their whole time seem given to improvement; and so far from becoming weary, they appear more
and more desirous of making night and day profitable, by
the acquisition of new light and a new knowledge of the
word of God. Such is the state in which the melancholy
tidings found them, and the effect is apparently such as
might be expected; it was a dreadful blow, but we have
seen and heard none of the extravagant expressions of
heathen grief. For the first day or two, their sorrow was
evidently keen and deep, but it was quiet, humble, and
Christian; their tears fell silently and rapidly, but they
manifested no disposition to indulge in the loud wailing
by which they were once accustomed to vent their feelings. 
Sabbath evening, April 3. This afternoon, Mr. Chamberlain and myself, accompanied by Richard Karaioula
(one of the lads educated at Cornwall,) walked to a valley
about four miles west of Hlonoruru, to hold a religious
service with its inhabitants. A messenger from Karaimoku had preceded us, giving information of our design,
and in obedience to his order, an audience of seventy or
eighty were assembled at the house of the headman or
overseer of the settlement, to whom I preached from the
words, " Jesus Christ came into the world to save sinners."
The attention to the exercises was very orderly and re



264      LOSS OF THE ROYAL GEORGE.
spectful, and we made an appointment to meet them again
on the ensuing Sabbath.
Mr. Loomis for some months past has gone on horseback, every Sabbath, to two or three villages, several miles
distant in the opposite direction. Kearuahonui and Kaiu,
the husbands of the queens dowager, Kaahumanu and
Tapuli, attend a meeting at two places, at Waititi, and Mr.
Bingham preaches twice in the chapel here-so that beside
the English service, which devolves regularly on me, public worship has been held seven times to-day, in six different places, along an extent of coast little short of fifteen miles. It is probable that hereafter, this will, in a
greater or less degree, be the systematic distribution of
the labours of this station on the Sabbath. And thus a
good portion of the leeward side of Oahu will be blest
with the proclamations of that word, by which alone c" the
eyes of the blind shall be opened, and the ears of the deaf
shall be unstopped."  By these " Sabbath day'sjourneys,"
an inroad will be made, as we hope, in the pollutions of
the land, and an "highway" formed, which shall be called
" the way of holiness," where " the unclean shall not pass
over," but where the redeemed shall walk, and the ran.
somed of the Lord shall return and come to Zion with
songs of everlasting joy upon their heads.
Friday, 8. I was roused this morning by the exclamation, " the Royal George is lost!" and on reaching the
window, regretted exceedingly to see the fine English ship
(formerly a sloop of war) of that name, high on the reef;
a mile or two west of the mouth of the harbour, a complete
wreck, without a mast standing. It appears she was run
ashore through the carelessness of the first officer, while
the captain was on board another vessel. The night was
not very dark, and the wind fresh off the land; so that the
person having charge of the ship, seems to be inexcusable.
The vessel, with every thing she contains, will be entirely
lost. Stripped of her loftiness and her pride, and high
among the breakers, she looks lonely and desolate indeed.
The sight has deeply impressed my mind with the meaning
and the force of the figure of the apostle, taken from such
a scene-the shipwreck of faith. If the destruction of a
noble but perishable piece of human workmanship can




NAHIENAENA'S LETTERS.


265


thus fill the mind with gloom, ah! what will be the thoughts
of those who at last find themselves making an irrevocable
and everlasting shipwreck of the soul, amid the billows of
eternity!
Wednesday, 13. One of the native schooners arrived
yesterday, bringing letters for the mission and the chiefs,
from Lahaina. Among others, were two from our little
friend, the Princess Nahienaena, which I have seen, and
a translation of which I will give you, as a specimen of
her composition. They are entirely her own, were fairly
and handsomely written on gilt-edged letter-paper, correctly folded, and sealed with wax; you will recollect she
is only nine years old.
The first, addressed to Karaimoku, by his favourite
name, Paalua, is as follows:
"Lahaina, Maui,./perila 7th, 1825.
Very great love to you, 0 Paalua, sick at the place
where you dwell. We have heard of the death of your
foster son, our king. We know it from the letter of Boki,
brought by an English ship, now here. Also the death of
your sister, Kamehamnaru, our queen. Your sovereigns
are dead. both of them: RihoRiho with Kamehamaru.
Great is my sorrow, for great was my love for them!
Great also is my love for you. You are sick; think of
God. From God only is health; from Him also cometh
every blessing, both for the body and for the soul.
Love to you from NAHINAENEA."
The second letter begins with a salutation to Kaahumanu and Karaimoku; but, after the first paragraph, is
addressed exclusively to her brother, now the king.
" Lahaina, JMaui, JIperila 7th, 1825.
Love to you two, Kaahumanu with Paalua, ---reat
sympathy for you, both in your sickness and your grief.
My wish is, that you two should be the parents of us (herself
and brother;) it is not good for us to be without parents.
And where art thou, my brother? The Lord of us
(RihoRiho) will never return-he is dead! But the word
of our true Lord remains, and let us regard it. Listen
thou to the word of our eternal Lord.
I pray to God, let us both pray, that Jehovah may cause
us to be good through Jesus Christ, the Deliverer from
23




266       ILLNESS OF MRS. STEWART.
sin, the eternal Lord. Be not deaf to me: it would be
an evil thing; but listen to my advice.
Love to you, O Kauikeauli, my brother I Dead is our
king at Lonadona (London;) dead also is the sister of us,
Kamehamaru!                      NAHIENAENA."
They do credit to her mind and heart, and we rejoice to
see them breathe so much the spirit of her lamented mother, Keopuolani; she is a lovely and promising child, and
her brother is scarce less so.
Sabbath evening, April 17. Nearly two years have
elapsed since we landed on these distant shores. In all
my communications since, in recounting the dispensations
of Providence to me and mine, I have been called to
mention only " blessings undisguised."  We have endured
many petty privations, felt some anxieties, known some
sorrows and shed some tears; but they were all such as
to be classed among the " lighter afflictions:" too trifling
to be mentioned, in connection with the general prosperity
and over balancing happiness we have enjoyed. During
the last few days, however, the hitherto unclouded sky has
gathered blackness, till this morning our fears were made
exquisitely awake to apprehensions of an overwhelming
calamity. But the darkness of the day has in much mercy
been scattered, and the rainbow of promise and of peace
is depicted on the blackness of the averted storm. You,
my dear M —, will not think the figure I have thus inadvertently introduced, too strong, when I tell you that Hhas been restored to her husband and her children, after
having seemingly trod on the borders of the grave.
She has been ill ever since the birth of a daughter on
the 7th of March; and this morning was thought to be
dying. The family were assembled, and prayer made to
God for the light of his countenance, as she should pass
through the dark valley; but in the course of an hour, a
happy alteration in her state took place; every symptom
became decidedly favourable, and she is now, for the first
time in forty-eight hours, sleeping, with a prospect of
refreshment.
Tuesday 19. Since the Sabbath our alarm for the
safety of our dear H —, has, at two or three times, been
even greater than it then was; but we are again encoura



ILLNESS OF MRS. STEWART.


267


ged by hope. It will give you happiness to know that,
when we were most fearful as to the event, we had the
high consolation of seeing imparted to her, by her covenant God, not only a spirit of resignation and peace, but
thoughts of brightness and of joy, from a good hope
through grace, of entering on " the rest that remnaineth to
his people."  The atonement and intercession of Jesus
Christ afforded her subjects of comnf;rting and delightful
meditation; and in trusting the -afety of her soul on
them, she could say, that she found the Son of man to be
indeed unto her spirit, " as a hiding place from the wind,
and a covertfrom the tempest."
lpril 30. This month closes upon us, as a family,
with a darker light than any we have yet known on missionary ground. Serious illness is at any time, and in any
circumstances, an affliction; but far from the comforts
and resources of civilization and Christianity, far from
the sympathy and services of kindred and friends, far
from all "' the sweet charities of life," it is doubly so. I
have at times given you snme of the brighter of our domnestic scenes; now, had I a skilful pencil, I could give
you one of darkness, a sketch in which you would see a
young and beloved wife and mother, languishing on a bed
of unchecked disease, an only son necessarily banished
from his home, and made an incumbrance on the family
of another; an helpless infint daughter, cast for nourishment and life, on the breast of a capricious pagan; and a
husband and father. with an humble friend, worn out by
the unceasing attentions of the day, and the unrelieved
watchings of the night. Such is, such has been, and such
we have too much reason to fear still will be, the state of
our little household.
But though the outlines of the picture are dark, in
the kind providence of God, with them may be blended
touches of light, not found in the cases,of many fellow
missionaries in similar circumstances in various parts of the
world. We are in a comfortable habitation, and in one
of the most salubrious of climates: and though destitute
of many articles, which at home would be deemed necessary to comfort, by a recent supply of medicines have at
hand every desirable prescription; and through the kindness of some of our visiters are furnished with many




268   ARRIVAL OF A BRITISH CONSUL.


things which are luxuries both in sickness and in health;
and thus, in the midst of chastisement, are enabled to
speak of the increasing goodness and mercy of the Lord.
CHAPTER XIV.
ARRIVAL OF A BRITISH CONSUL.
May 1. The brig Active, from London, arrived some
days since, bringing Mr. Charlton, lady and sister, as future residents of ) ahu: Mr. Charlton having been appointed, by the British government, Consul General for
'the Islands in the Pacific. They left the Blonde frigate,
Lord Byron, at Valparaiso; she was to sail in a few days
after the Active, and is hourly expected with the survivors
of the party; again diminished by the death of Naihi Tutui, or Captain Jack. He died suddenly at Valparaiso,
from an inflammation of the brain.
Monday, 2. The Spirit of the Most High, my dear M.,
is not only breathing, as we hope, on the spiritual chaos
of this dark and unformed land, but is also, we now and
then have reason to believe, moving on the face of the
waters, by which we are surrounded, agitating and new
areating the hearts of some of the many who traverse
their surface, by the irresistible mandate, " Let there be
light." Every season for the return of the whale ships
to the islands, brings to our knowledge the cases of some,
at least, who, amidst the general and unexampled dissoluteness of their companions, are groaning under the galling chains of sin and guilt. and sighing for the liberty and
blessedness of the gospel, or who are rejoicing in the
hope of having already been brought, through grace, into
all the freedom of the sons of God. Within the last
week, besides having two or three personal interviews, I
have received two letters from an interesting young man,
an officer on board a ship now in the offing, in the former
situation. He came to the islands a month since, a perfectly careless and thoughtless sinner; but it can now be
said of him, " Behold he prayeth;" and he is about commencing his voyage to the coast of Japan, with a bosom




ARRIVAL OF TIHE BLONDE.


269


filled with thoughts and emotions never known before.
In one of his letters, he says he has found it a fearful
thing for a guilty, convicted, and altogether prayerless
soul, to venture into the presence of a just and holy, and
justly offended God: a feeling experienced, perhaps, by
all, in greater or less degree, who have attempted to pray,
after being suddenly arrested in their sins by the convictions of the Holy Spirit.   May he so improve, and so appreciate the inestimable privilege, that his language, with
that of the thousands of Israel, shall speedily be" Sweet the moments, rich in blessings,
Which before the cross I spend!"
Tuesday, 3.    In confirmation of the truth of the statement above, I will mention an incident which has just
taken place.    While at dinner, to-day, a common sailor
called, as he said, for " a word of coiusel for the good of
his soul."  The ship to which he belonged did not intend
anchoring, but he obtained permission to visit us for a moment, while the captain was transacting a little business
on shore.    They had been on their voyage nearly two
years, and it was now fourteen months since, to use his
own expression, " he left off the life of a vagabond, and
began to work out his salvation."    He had one friend like
minded on board, and thanked God he could find " teachers of righteousness" in this dark corner of the world.
Friday, 6. Yesterday a pilot-boat came express from
Maui with intelligence that the Blonde frigate had just
anchored at Lahaina.?     This morning at sunrise she was
* The following account of the Blonde's arrival at Lahaina, given by
Mr. Richards, was published in the Missionary Herald.
At 5 o'clock, the vessel was becalmed about six miles from shore. I
soon perceived that a boat was lowered, and filled with men. The people
being still quiet, and suspecting nothing, I walked along the beach to
ascertain who was on board the boat; but lhad not reached the landing,
when I heard a cry from a canoe that approached the shore, " It is Boki,
it is Boki."  Hoapiri beckoned me to follow him. As I walked along,
the princess caught my arm, saying, " Stay by me." Hoapiri took his
seat in a chair upon the beach. I stood at his left hand, with the princess leaning on my side. Thousands collected around, some of whom
began to wail. As the company approached, a passage was opened for
them into the centre of the circle. The wailing increased, though it was
not considerable until the company arrived within about four yards, when
Hoapiri rose from his chair, threw back his head, and with a roar which
scarcely resembled the human voice, he spread out his arms to receive
Ilis daughter. In an instant, all the chiefs present, except the one which
23*




270


ARRIVAL OF THE BLONDE.


to be seen off Diamond Hill, and between nine and ten
o'clock rounded to, immediately opposite the Mission
House. On dropping her anchor she fired a salute, which
leaned on my side, and all the thousands are und, set up a screaming,
which drowned the roaring of the ocean, and thus summoned to the
scene of grief those who till now had not heard the alarm. The princess, in utter neglect of all their ancient forms, sprang forward, and,
with a delicacy that would not have disgraced a Charlotte, threw herself
into the arms of' Tuini; and the latter drpped into the sand, while the
tears of the little girl were falling on her breast. At this instant, Hoapiri fell on the ground, literally plunged his whole face in the dirt at Boki's
feet, and thus gave the signal to all the old veterans of barbarism, who
instantly followed his example, and for several minutes scoured their
sable faces in the sand. Boki and his company were far more calm
than the rest, and could scarcely be said to wail. After a few minutee,
I said to Nahienaena, it would be well o thank Jehovah for this meeting.
She immediately spoke to Boki and Tuini. They appeared pleased, and
immediately reached me their hands. Boki said, "Where shall we
pray?" This was the first word, that was spoken by any of the company   Hoping that it might stop the confusion and noise which now
prevailed, I proposed to remove to a neighbouring yard. They approved,
and as we began to move, the wailing in a good me.,sure ceased. Several minutes elapsed before the mats were spread, during which time
messages were despatched to the Blonde, which was now furlin# her
sails. Afier prayer, I conversed a while with Boki and Tuirif. She
spoke in the strongest terms of the good things they had seen, and the
kindness with which they had been treated. They express great love to
Lord Byron, and say he has been exceedingly kind to them. We were
awakened at an early hour this morning, by the roll-call on board the
frigate, which was anchored directly in front of our house, and nearer
the shore than I have ever seen any other vessel. When I reflected on the
benevolent errand, on which she had c, me, ii was a pleasant sight; and
I listened with satisfaction to her band of music, which I could distinctly
hear, and which lost none of its charms by being removed a little distance
on the water; it was a pleasant morning. All was still and quiet on
shore, and the countenances of all beamed with joy.-It would occupy
quite too much room to tell all that Boki has already said of the people,
respecting his interesting voyage. At 9 o'clock, I called on him, found
him and his wife, Hoapiri and Nahienaena, in a house by themselves, prepared to wait on Lord Byron whenever he should arrive. A
messenger soon reported his boat to be on its way. Boki went out, and
conducted him to the house, in company with several of his officers.
The easy and unaffected familiarity of Lord Byron, and the interest he
manifested in the welfare of our mission, were gratifying beyond expression. I accepted his polite invitation to dine on board the Blonde, and
spent several hours in answering hislordship's numerous inquiries respecting our Mission, the former state of the Islands, and their recent improvements. I have rarely spent a lew hours more pleasantly in the
society of any man. At 5 o'clock, the frigate weighed her anchor, and,
with a pleasant breeze, loftily retired from our shores, and soon was only
a speck in the distant horizon.              WILLAM ELLIS.




RECEPTION OF BOKI.             271
was answered by each of the forts; that on the point
within the harbour, and that above us on Punch Bowl Hill.
Shortly after, Mr. Bingham, Mr. Loomis, Mr. Chamberlain, and myself, accompanied the chiefs to the point near
the fort, to receive Boki and party on their landing from
the Blonde.
A more touching scene I have scarce ever witnessed.
The chiefs, all well dressed in full black, arranged themselves in front of Kaahumanu's frame-house, within a few
yards of the water's edge. As the well-manned barges
of the Blonde approached the low quay, Kaahumanu, her
two sisters, and the young queens of RihoRiho, slowly
advanced from the body of the chiefs, towards the place
of landing. All was silent, except an occasional burst of
grief from some one of the multitude, who were kept at a
distance, and prevented thronging the beach by a file of
armed men. But when Governor Boki's barge came near
enough for the parties to recognize each other, the queens
" lifted up their voices" and wept aloud, with that melancholy tone of sorrow which we have all heard, at least in
soime: few instances, from a heart deeply touched with
grief. A small house immediately on the wharf intercepted the view of the barge at the moment of landing, perhaps
to the more powerful effect of the attitude and expression
of Boki and his wife, as they burst on the sight from behind
it, wringing their hands in agony, and exhibiting the strongest marks of an overwhelming emotion of mingled grief
and joy. The parties stood thus for some minutes, without approaching each other, while the whole air was filled
with lamentation, and the ground shaken with the thunderings of the minute-guns, which reminded the nation of
the fate of their king and queen. They then rushed into
each other's embrace, passing from the arms of one to
another in a continued paroxysm of weeping, for an hour,
while some of the more humble friends of those who had
returned, embraced and kissed their feet, and bathed them
with their tears. Liliha, or, as now called, Mrs. Boki, at
last sunk to the ground from exhaustion, and was under
the necessity of being assisted into the house.
I never was so deeply affected with a wailing scene, and
few have ever taken place, I suspect, in which there was




272       RECEPTION OF LORD BYRON.
a more general excitement of; the sorrows, joys, and sym.
pathies," which when thus awakened, testify to the " high
capacities" of man. After an hour or two, the whole company proceeded to the residence of Karaimoku, who was
too unwell to go out; and shortly afterwards to the chapel
to attend prayers, and tender thanks to God for the interesting incident of the day.  Before leaving the chapel,
Governor Boki delivered a short but excellent address, recommending, as the result of his observation and experience abroad, a renewed and devoted attention to the palapala and the pule-letters and religion.
Saturday, 7. Last evening the government gave information by letter to Lord Byron, that they would receive
himself and officers this morning, at the residence of Karaimoku. Arrangements for the interview were accordingly made, and the occasion has been one of great interest. The landing of his lordship about twelve o'clock,
was announced by a salute from the fort. The firing was
the signal for attendance at court, and Mr. Bingham and
myself proceeded to the place appointed. Mr. Pitt'hose
to receive the company in his grass-house, rather th iin
the fine stone building lately erected by him. That fixed
on, however, is one of the largest and best built native
houses on the island, and being new, was as pleasant, and
perhaps more appropriate than the other would have been.
The whole apartment was floored with new and handsome
mats, and made a pleasant and spacious room of audience.
There are four doors, one on each side, and one at each
end; that at the south was appointed for the entrance on
this occasion. Every thing was in readiness when we arrived. At the upper or north end of the house, on an
elevation or platform of mats, the top one of which was
of very fine texture, and beautifully spotted and striped
with stained grass, stood a Chinese sofa, on which the
young king and the princess his sister, who came from
Lahaina in the Blonde, were seated, both in plain suits of
black. Between them, and partly round the princess, lay
a splendid garment of yellow feathers, edged with the vandyke pattern, points alternate black and red, and lined
with crimson satin.
This article, nine yards long and one yard wide, was




SUPERB NATIVE COSTUME.


273


made at great expense of time and labour during the past
year, and designed to be worn by the princess as a pau, or
native female dress, at the reception of her brother RihoRiho, on his expected return. It was the desire of the
chiefs that she should wear it, with the wreaths for the
head and neck, necessary to form the complete ancient
costume of a princess at this interview; but as it was
necessary, in order to this, that she should be naked to the
waist, nothing could induce her to consent. To escape
importunity, she fled to the Mission House early in the
morning. She wept so as scarcely to he pacified by us,
and returned to the chiefs only in time to take her seat,
and have it thrown carelessly about her over her European
dress, with one end cast across the arm of the sofa. To
have seen her in so superb a native costume, would have
no doubt been gratifying to the company; but we could
but commend and admire the feeling, which led her to
object, and to persist in her purpose.  Behind the sofa,
and partly inclining over it, were four of the largest kahiles
of S    the national insignia of their royalty.
3l ach side of the sofa the chiefs were arranged
according to their rank; forming two closely filled lines
along each side of the house, entirely to the door of
entrance; Kaahumanu and the rest of the queens-dowager occupying the places next to the princess. Mr. Pitt
sat in a large crimson chair opposite these last, near dhe
king, but out of and before, the line of chiefs. On his
right were two chairs of the same kind, for Lord Byron
and Mr. Charlton, and on his left two others for Mr. Bingham and myself   On the opposite side, chairs were
arranged for the officers of the suite. The prime minister's dress was of black silk; the upper garment, on
account of his age and idipoosition, being a very full and
loose gown. Shortly after we had taken our seats, the
procession from the Blonde made its appearance; Lord
Byron in the full uniform of his rank. supported by Mr.
Charlton in his consular costume, and by Governor Boki
in a rich military suit. All the company, except the king,
princess, and Mr. Pitt, ups, ards of a hundred in number,
received him standing, and, being well dressed in full
black, made a very respectable appearance.




274     PRESENTATION OF LORD BYRON.
His lordship was introduced first to Mr. Pitt, and immediately presented each of the gentlemen in his suite, about
twenty in number, and then in the same manner to the
king, princess, and the queens, and after a general salutation to the rest of the chiefs, to MSr. Bingham, and myself.
Among the persons I now recollect, were Lord Frederick
Beauclerc; the Hon. Mr. Talbot, a son of the Earl of
Shrewsbury; the Hon. Mr. Keith, a son of Lord Keith;
Mr. Gambier, a nephew of Admiral Gambier; the Rev.
Mr. Bloxam, the chaplain, and Mr. Andrew Bloxam, the
mineralogist, nephews of Sir Thomas Lawrence, the celebrated artist; Mr. Davis, the surgeon; Mr. M'Rea, the
botanist; Mr. Maiden, the surveyor; Mr. Dampier, the
artist; and Mr. Wilson, the porser. As soon as they
were thus introduced, Lord BIyron, through Mr. Marini,
as interpreter, presented the salutations of the King of
JEngland, and his sympathy at the fate of the King and
Queen; and then ordered a boat's crew in attendance, to
bring forward the personal presents of his majesty to the
heads of the nation. They consisted of a compi tsuit
of the Windsor uniform, for the young king, w  the
splendid decorations peculiar to the sovereign's dress.
The buttons are of solid gold, having the impression G.
R. in the old English character on them, and the lacings,
embroidering, and epaulettes, superb-chapeau and sword
to match. 'he coat. hat, and sword, were immediately
tried upon his majesty, and being found to fit most per.
fectly, Lord Byron, partly by way of pleasantry, led him
to Karaimoku and Kaahlimanu, and presented him as their
king; and patting his hand on his head, bade him to be a
good boy, attend well to his studies, and mind all his kind
friends the Missionaries said to him..4.iFor Karaimoku
there was a first-rate gold hunting watch, having the royal
arms of Britain richly engraved on one side of the case,
and the regent's name on the other.  Xnd for Kaahumanu,
an elegantly finished silver tea-pot, marked in the Came
manner as the watch, with the royal arms and her name.
As soon as these articles had been delivered and examined, much to our gratificatior, Mr. Pitt, entirely of his
own will, without the slightest suggestion from us, proposed that we should have prayers of thanksgiving: to0




LORD BYRON.


275


which Lord Byron and his company most readily and
cheerfully agreed; and Mr. Bingham made an excellent
prayer, the first part in English, and the latter in the Hawaiian language: at the close, we were happy to receive
the congratulations of the party, not only on the degree of
civilization and refinement manifested on this occasion,
but also on the evidence of Christian belief and practice,
which the request of Karaimoku, and the appearance of
the assembly in this act of worship, exhibited. It is an
example which I fear the most Christian courts in Christendom would blush to imitate on a similar occasion.
After this, a side-table was spread with biscuit and fresh
butter, cocoa-nuts and melons, wine, brandy, and other
liquors; and the company left to choose the time of their
departure. On leaving the house, several of the gentlemen renewedly expressed their astonishment at the respectability of the levee, arind congratulated us afresh, on the
prospect we had, as teachers and preachers, to so interesting a people.
The tjmpet of fame has made the title, genius, character, and even person of the late Lord Byron so familiar to
you, that I am satisfied the little information I may have
it in my power to give, of the successor to the hereditary
honours of the family, will not be uninteresting. At present I can only say, that the impression made by a first
interview, are most favourable to him as a man and a genm
tleman. In his person he is tall and slender, fine dark
eyes and hair, with strongly marked but open and interesting features, no particular resemblance to his cousin, except in what is usually called a family likeness, unless it
may be in the nose, which is of the same style, but not so
finely formed as that in engravings of the poet. His eye
is inquisitive  penetrating, and shows him to be a man
of a decisive and energetic character. In manners he is
plain, frank, and cordial; and in conversation perfectly affable and familiar; no affectation of dignity, no hauteur,
nothing in looks or expression of countenance, indicative
of a trait of character, which, ever since I saw the likeness
of the poet, I have best understood by the term, " Byronic
curve of the upper lip."
On hearing of the illness of H —, he requested Mr.




S^i       FUNERAL PROCESSION.
Davis, the surgeon, to visit her; with the apology to Mr.
DaviS, that he knew he would be happy in giving his advice to Mrs. S., and with the assurance to me, that the
most unlimited confidence might be placed in the professional ability of Mr. Davis.
Wednesday, 11. Suitable arrangements having been
previously made for the landing of the bodies of the king
and queen, at 11 o'clock this morning, the minute-guns of
the frigate, with a procession of barges moving from her,
became signals to us to be in readiness on the point, to
take the places assigned to us in the procession which was
to escort the remains of our friends and pupils to a temporary mausoleum. All the chiefs, except Mr. Pitt, who was
too much indisposed to have endured the fatigue, with
every foreigner of respectability in the neighbourhood of
Honoruru, were on the ground some time before the barges
reached the shore. Mr. Charlton improved the period in
forming them in the order in which they were to walk. At
twelve o'clock, the procession began to move through a
double line of native soldiers, formed on each ide of the
street, from the fort to the chapel, a distance of near half
a mile, in the following manner:First. Twenty men in the native costume of black,
some with the addition of rich feather cloaks, each two
bearing an immense feathered staff of state, about thirty
feet long, and from one to two feet in diameter, some of
black, some of crimson, others of green, and others again
of yellow feathers.
Second. The marines of the Blonde, arms reversed.
Third. The band, playing a dead march.
Fourth. The gentlemen of the Mission, with the surgeon and chaplain of the frigate; Mr., Bingham, Mr.
Bloxam, and myself, walked together, thaplain, in his
full canonical robes; Mr. Bingham and myself in plain
dresses, with white scarfs and hat-bands.
Fifth. The Coffins. These are highly finished and
splendid; being covered with rich crimson Genoa velvet,
studded with gilt nails, and having the corners of each
compartment of the sides, ends, and tops, as well as the
massive handles, filled with devices of the cherubim.
They were placed on two cars, with black canopies, and




FUNERAL PROCESSION.


277


each drawn by forty of the inferior male chiefs: it is cus.
tomary to have all services to a dead chief of high rank
performed by chiefs only, in European dresses of deep
mourning.
Sixth. The young king, in his Windsor uniform, with
crape on his arm and sword-hilt; and the princess his sister, in full black: the former supported by Mr. Charlton,
in his consular character and costume, and the latter by
Lord Byron, in full naval uniform.
Seventh. The rest of the high chiefs, according to their
rank and relationship to the deceased, two abreast, with
an officer of the Blonde, in full dress, on each side.
Eighth.  The inferior chief women, in European
dresses of black.
Ninth. The foreigners, mercantile agents, residents,
and sea-captains in port.
3ind lastly, about one hundred of the men of the Blonde,
in a uniform dress of white jackets and trowsers, white
hats, and shoes bound with black, and black handkerchiefs
and hatbands: the whole making a most respectable, and,
for the Sandwich Islands at least, a truly splendid appearance.
The great weight of the coffins, each body having three,
one of lead, one of mahogany, and one of oak, rendered
it almost impracticable to have them taken into the chapel,
which had been hung in black for the occasion: on reaching the door, therefore, the procession, instead of entering
the building, fell into a circle around the cars, and Mr.
Bloxam read a part of the burial service of the Episcopal
Church, and Mr. Bingham made an address in the native
language; after which the procession again formed, and
returned down the street a few rods, to the gate leading to
Karaimoku's residence, situated in a cultivated enclosure
of some eight or ten acres. Here, as it passed by a circuitous way, it showed to the best advantage.
On reaching the door of the house, the feather-bearers,
marines, and band, opened to the right and left, and Mr.
Bloxam, Mr. Bingham, and myself, entered the habitation
about to be converted into a tomb. I scarce know when
I have been more tenderly affected. It was the audience
room, in which but a day or two before, Lord Byron and
24




278           FUNERAL CEREMONY.
his suite had been presented; but how greatly was its
whole appearance altered I A low and well-defined arch
had been thrown over its lofty roof, converting it into a
long vaulted hall, every part of which, even to the pillars
running through the middle, was entirely covered with
black. Its only furniture was a large platform at one end,.I which was to be deposited all that remained of Kamehamaru and RihoRiho: and the only person in it was Karaimoku, standing to receive the lifeless bodies of those he
had ever called and loved as his children. His dress was
the same as on Saturday; but his appearance even more
venerable and interesting. He received our salutations
in agitated silence: the trembling hand, the quivering lip,
the hasty and disturbed pressure of his handkerchief to his
eyes and forehead, all expressing deep emotion of heart.
He permitted himself to be led to a seat, while the coffins,
each borne by twelve men of the Blonde, were placed on
the platform. Immediately after, the rest of the company
entered, and formed numerous groups around the apartment, while, accompanied by the band drawn up on one
side, we sung the native funeral anthem to the tune of
Pleyel's Hymn, and Mr. Bingham made a short prayer in
the same language. This scene was by far the most
striking incident of the day. The sable drapery of the
room, the full mourning suits of the majority, interspersed
and relieved by the rich and glittering uniforms of the officers, the handsome half-mourning dresses and white plumes
of Mrs. Charlton and sister, Madam PBoki, and one of the
young queens-dowager, who has lately become a bride,
with a variety of other becoming and appropriate dresses,
the melancholy tones of the instruments, and the solemn
truths of the chant in the chamber of the dead, combined
to make it a truly interesting and affecting moment.
Thus, under the mournful reverberations of the minuteguns, have been received, and peacefully deposited on
their native shores, the king and queen of the Sandwich
Islands, whose short reign has been marked by epochs no
less momentous than the abolition of a cruel system of
idolatry; the introduction of the elements of literature,
and the arts and usages of civilized life; and, above all,
the promulgation of the Gospel, with all the bright hopes




FUNERAL CEREMONY.              279
and eternal retributions of Christianity! To these dark
monarchs of this western archipelago, in the gloomy mansion of their repose, I gave one more tear; one more
tear, in remembrance of the better characteristics, which,
not unfrequently, shone through their follies and their sins;
one more tear for the attachment I had felt, and the prayers
I had offered, for them; one more tear for the early disappointment of the hopes I had entertained, that they would
return to their rude subjects, from the bright regions of
Christendom, only " to point to heaven, and to lead the
way."  I shudder to think, that, so imperfectly instructed,
so partially reclaimed, and, as it is to be feared, so little
prepared, they have been launched into eternity, and have
stood before their God.
Sabbath evening, 22. Governor Boki, as a member of
the church of Christ, joined us to-day in the breaking of
bread and the drinking of wine, in remembrance of Him
who died that sinners might live. He was baptized six
years since, by the chaplain of the French discovery ship,
the corvette Uranie, M. Freycinet, commander, and received the communion in England, and on board the
Blonde. So far as we have information, he is a sincere
friend to Christianity and practical piety, and is without
reproach in his moral character, though once exceedingly
dissipated. We had a most interesting religious interview
with him and his brother Karaimoku, this evening, and
cannot but hope that the last, who was also baptized by
the Rotnish priest, has, in this emphatically the eleventh
hour of his life, been baptized of the Holy Ghost. It is
now six months since, according to his own statement, he
forsook all sin, and has lived the life and indulged the hope
of a Christian. After a long and most pleasant conversation on his own case, his words were, " You tell me what
the belief and the feelings of a real Christian are, and my
thought is, that I now amn one-but I do not know: look
you at my life and actions, and tell me whether I live, as
well as think and feel, rightly; watch me in my life, and
then tell me what your thought is."
The confessions he made of his former habits and sins,
were a shocking testimony to the pollutions of the heathen,
and would have crimsoned the cheeks, and for ever silenced




280


KINDIESS OF LORD BYRON.


the tongues and pens of those who are so enthusiastic in
their enconiums on the purity, simplicity, and innocence of
untutored nature, and so lavish in their censure of those
who attempt to interrupt their primeval felicity, and destroy their peace, by the precepts of Christianity and the
doctrines of salvation!
Thursday, 26. The physicians having recommended
a change of air, as most likely to benefit H —'s health,
Lord Byron has most kindly assigned uis accommodations
in the Blonde, for a trip to the harbour of Waiakea, at
Hido, on Hawaii, where he is going for a month, to refit
and explore the windward of that island, with the intention of
returning to this port again. It is uncertain on what day
she may sail, though probably in the course of a week.
The very favourable impression of the character of this
nobleman, made at the first interview, has been greatly
strengthened and deepened by after-intercourse. To the
apparent quickness, vigour, and cultivation of intellect,
which you would naturally expect to see in a Byron, he
adds a kindness of heart, and benevolence of disposition,
that would secure your respect and affection with any
name. Few men of his rank, and indeed any rank, would
have completed the objects of his mission to the Islands
in so condescending and unexceptionable a manner; and
the influence he is exerting, is calculated to open more
fully than ever to this people, a way for the introduction
of all the illimitable blessings of civilization and Christianity.
It is with no inconsiderable pleasure, that I anticipate,
from the excursion to Hawaii, a prolonged intercourse
with himself, and some of his immediate friends, with
whom I have become more particularly acquainted.
Nothing I have yet known on Missionary ground, causes me so deeply to feel the sacrifice of our situation, as
the occasional society of such men. The lowliness of
our habitation, the plainness and poverty of our table, the
known and unknown inconveniences and privations of our
whole establishment-never rouse the recollections of
mind and heart, excited by the intercourse of a week, a
day, an hour, with the polished, the intelligent, the amiable, the virtuous; those who have heads to think, hearts




TlHE BLONDE FRIGATE.             8 1
to feel, characters to respect, and conversation and manners to win. When I meet and when I part with such, at
this extremity of the globe, I feel that I am cut off from
some of the choicest enjoyments of life.
Sabbath evening, 29. It is possible the frigate may sail
before the return of the Sabbath: and designing to leave
both the children at this place, with B —, and a native
nurse, we thought it advisable to have our daughter baptized to-day. It being impracticable for H —   to go to
the chapel, she was removed to a sofa in the front room of
our little cottage, iminediately after the English service in
the morning: the members of the mission, joined by the
British consul's family, and two or three gentlemen of the
Blonde, who had permission of absence from worship on
board ship, assembied to witness the solemnity. Mr.
Bingham administered the orditnance, and by the name of
Harriet Bradford, consecrated to the service, and commended to the guardianship and salvation of our covenant
God, the germ of immortality committed to our arms.
May she inherit the prayers and the piety of the ancestor
whose name she bears, and if spared to years of maturity,
may her praise, like his, be in all the churches. The very
critical state of the mother made the scene tenderly interesting. It is not improbable that this may be the last,
as it is the first, act of duty and piety she may ever be
permitted to exercise towards the helpless object of her
love.
On board II. B. AJ. Ship Blonde, June 5, 1825. At
eleven o'clock yesterday morning, a messenger from Lord
Byron came to inform us that he was in readiness, on the
point, to take us on board the frigate in his boat.  H-.*was carried down in an arm-chair, and his lordship's gig
being in waiting, we were immediately rowed off to the vessel, a distance of two miles, in the open roads: the possibility that H — might not live to return to Oahu, made the
separation from her children a severe trial. We left them,
however, with the persuasion, that they will receive every
kind and affectionate attention from our faithful friend
B —, and from the ladies of the station.
The anchor was not taken up till four o'clock, uniil
which time, H —    remained on a sofa in Lord Byron's
24*




282          LADY BYRON,
cabin: but beginning to be slightly affected by the motion
of the ship after she was under sail, before we sat down to
dinner, she was removed to her own cabin, adjoining the
dining room. The captain, and all the gentlemen of the
ship are exceedingly polite and attentive; and our whole
situation is made, by them, as pleasant as possible. We
shall feel ourselves under very lasting obligations to Lord
Byron, every development of whose character increases our
respect, gratitude, and love. He is at all times affable
and communicative; but while at the tea-table this evening, where we were joined by the chaplain, Mr. Andrew
Bloxam, his brother, and Mr. Dampier, the artist, he exhibited powers of conversation which must make him a
charming companion to his intimate friends and family
circle. He is a great favourite with the chiefs; and in
order most fully to secure every attention and service to
himself and ship, Kaahumanu, her sister Hoapiriwahine,
accompany him to Hawaii. Mr. Goodrich of the Mission,
who has paid a short visit at Oahu, improves this opportunity also, of returning to his station at Waiakea.
The Blonde is a forty-six gun ship, of fine model, and
perfectly new, this being her first voyage. Lord Byron's
accommodations consist of an after-cabin, fitted up as a
reading and sitting room, in which tea is served; a forward
or large cabin, used as a breakfast and dining room; and
a sleeping and dressing cabin. The whole are substantially and handsomely finished and furnished, particularly
the after-cabin. In this there is a beautifully engraved
likeness of his majesty George IV., from a full-length
portrait by Sir Thomas Lawrence; a half-length portrait
of the present Lady Byron; and one of the same size of
Moore, the poet, who is an intimate friend of the Byron
family.
Of Lady Byron, we have heard an admirable account.
The expression of countenance in her portrait is uncommonly ingenuous and prepossessing, and, in addition to all
that is amiable and benevolent in disposition, she is said,
by those whom we have heard speak of her, to be eminently pious; the plainness of her dress, and whole appearance, indicate a mind and heart little devoted to the
vanities of high and fashionable life.




LOUD BYRON.                 283
The library is in the after-cabin, and is of a character you
would more expect to meet in a clergyman's study, than
in a post-captain's cabin; consisting principally of the
British classical writers, with standard works on morals
and religion.
Saturday evening, 11. After being delayed all day
yesterday between Maui and Hawaii, we this morning
succeeded in doubling the north point of the latter island,
and have been delighted with the romantic and verdant
scenery of the windward side of Hawaii, including the
precipices and waterfalls in the neighbourhood of the
beautiful valleys of Wai-Pio, and Wai-Manu. One cascade, of which we had a fill view for some time, could
not have been less than six hundred feet in height, extending almost from the top of a mountain to its base. The
quantity of water was small, but sufficiently great to be
very beautiful, as in its descent it foamned from cliff to
cliff, and from precipice to precipice. The windward, or
eastern parts of all the mountains, are much more picturesque than the leeward, and abound in romantic and
beautiful scenes, peculiarly refreshing from their verdure,
to an eye long accustomed to the parched and dreary
aspect of the opposite sides.
Lord Byron and myself are usually alone at the breakfast table, and his conversation then is less general, as to
subjects, and often more interesting than at any other
time. It was particularly so this morning, happening to
turn on his late distinguished predecessor in the barony of
the Byrons. He had often before spoken of him as a
writer, and, in reference to his later publications, in terms
of unqualified reprehension; but now his remarks regarded him as a man, and a member of his own family. They
were of the same age, same education, and on terms of
the closest intimacy, till after the poet's marriage.
The conversation also embraced Newstead Abbey, the
ancient family mansion of the Byrons; in the appearance
of which, although the death of its late celebrated possessor has given it a new master, no change whatever has
taken place. All its ancient baronial character is retained, with as much reverence for the memory of the noble
lord, as if he had consecrated it to the Muses, and inter



28f4                 IMPROMPTU.
dicted every kind of alteration. The extraordinary genius,
popularity, and whole character, of its late proprietor, has
thrown an interest around it that few private mansions can
boast; and it will, ever hereafter, be an object of curiosity
to the scholar and traveller, if to no others.
Lord Byron has an estate in the vicinity of Newstead,
and was kind enough to say, if I should ever visit England,
he would be happy to see me in Nottinghamshire; with
the promise of accompanying me to the abbey.      The additional if, puts the event, humanly speaking, among the
improbabilities of my life; but should such a thing lake
place, I am sure the gratification I might receive from
treading the halls and cloisters of Newstead, would not
arise from any feelings of veneration or respect for its
former master. I admire the powers and brilliancy of his
genius, less than I abhor their later monstrous perversion
and prostitution.
Our nearness to the land and mountains gave us a beautiful sunset scene and evening, so much so as to call into
exercise the poetic talent of our friend Mr. Bloxam, and
secure the following edffsion, which I found enclosed in a
polite note on my writing-desk, on our return from the
after-cabin.
Coasting along the ISLAND OF HAWAII-Saturday evening,
June 11, 1825.
Eve, gentle Eve, the mourner's friend art thou
Calming his lonely heart, his alter'd brow;
Bidding again his former pleasures live
With added charms, which thou alone canst give.
Seen through thy misty veil, the years gone by
Are dearest far to pensive memory.
When thy soft blending hues, along the West,
Calmly reposing in their tranquil rest,
Strew Hesper's cradle with their rosy light,
And shed bright tinges o'er the brow of night,Then let me hail thee! for thy dewy star
Opens the gates of blessedness afar;
And shining bright, and brighter from above,
Tells of a land where all is peace and love.
Fairest is Eve, where mild Ausonia's sky
Owns her bright hues;-and where the Zephyr's sigh
Breathes the sweet tones of melody or song,
Or bears the fragrance of the groves along.




IMPROMPTU.                        285
Lovely is Eve, where Britain's western cloud
Throws round the sun her purple glowing shroud,
While even childhood, ere it sinks to rest,
Turns its blue eye enraptured to the West.
But brightest, most sublime, is Evening's reign
Where Hawaii links her seven-fol chaind,*
And where the leader of her giant bandt
Flings his broad shadows proudly o'er the land,
And soaring seeks among the snow-charged cloud,
His time-worn forehead's haughty height to shroud.
He sees the twilight sled her softening dyes
On Maui's mountains that contiguous rise;
While his hoar brow is bright with hues of day,
And glowing radiant 'neath the sun's last ray,
With timid hand, may evening scarcely dare
O'er his dark breast to draw her mantle fair.
But who at this soft hour is gaining now
The heights that frown o'er yonder vale below,
Who-winding down the craggy pathway there
In shadowy distance-seems some form of air!
'Tis he-the Pastor of the numerous flock,
Who wait his coming under yonder rock;
Where (far from mild Religimn's soothing ray)
Pale superstition late held direful sway:
But now-mysterious words —He speaks of Heaven,
Of Mercy-Hope-and Love-of sins forgiven:
He speaks of HIM, omnipotent to save,
Who died-who lives triumphant o'er the graveE'en now the savage, with unlifted eyes,
Drinks the sweet words, " Christ is our sacrifice."
No more (for past omissions to atone,)
He bows to forms of wood or gods of stone;
But bends the knee, and humbly hopes to trace
Some glorious tidings of redeeming grace:
While gently stealing o'er th: twilight dim,
Falls the soft cadence of the E ening FHymn.
Now allis peace. Each sound has died away;
The savage seeks his couch-till break of day
Again shall summon him, hes vows to pay.
0 blest seclusion! Solitude hov blest!
Yes-soon on Mounakea's shaggy breast,
(Unless I idly dream) a Fane shall rise
To HIM, the great TRIUNE, who rules the earth and skies.
The whole is creditable to the writer, as an impromptu;
and the latter part is a pleasing and lively picture of our
ordinary evening worship with the natives.
i ev n Ilns                          onka


* Seven Islands.


t Mounakea.




286               BAY OF HIDO.
JMlssion House, Hide, Monday, June 13. Yesterday
morning, at the break of day, we were farther from the
harbour of Waiakea than we had the evening before expected to be; and Lord Byron gave orders to stand off the
land till the usual worship of the Sabbath was performed.
The whole crew, in clean dresses, occupied seats fronting
the quarter deck, where chairs were arranged for the officers. In addition to the morning service of prayers, at
different parts of which the band played pieces of sacred
music, Mr. Bloxam gave us a very excellent sermon on
repentance. The whole was marked by much order and
solemnity, and attended to by many with great devoutness,
especially by the captain and our friend the surgeon.
As we approached the land after church, we were
greatly delighted with the verdure, luxuriance, and beauty
of the landscape opening to us, in the neighbourhood of
the bay of Ilido. The shore had lost in a great measure
the abrupt and precipitous character of the coast along
which we had been sailing on Saturday, and was only
edged by a low cliff, richly mantled with shrubbery and
creeping plants, and ornamented with several beautiful
cascades. These, in connection with the breakers, which
ran high upon the rocks, often dashing their spray many
feet in the air, gave the cliff an incrommnmly picturesque
appearance.  Tho land rose gradually from the cliff, to
the distance of ten or fifteen miles, to a heavy wood encircling the base of M ounakea. Though in a state of
nature, this large district had the appearance of cultivation, being an open country covered with grass, and beautifully studded and sprinkled with clumps, and groves,
and single trees, in the manner of park scenery, with a
cottage here and there peeping from beneath their rich
foliage.  The mountains were entirely covered with
clouds, or the prospect would have been rendered more
delightful from their sublimity. Such was the scene on
our. right, as we sailed close along the breakers to the
narrow channel forming the entrance to the harbour, the
gentlemen of the Blonde exclaiming " This is more like
English scenery than any thing we have yet seen!" and
we equally ready to say, " This looks something like America, it has some of the features of a civilized land!




VISIT TO MR. RUGGLES.           287
The channel is formed by the cliff on the right, and a
sunken coral reef on the left, the point of which comes
within two or three hundred rods of the shore, making it
necessary for ships to pass so close to the breakers, as to
appear in a dangerous situation. Seamen, however, consider it perfectly safe. The reef runs in a curved direction, from the point at the channel, about half a mile to the
east, where it joins a romantic little islet covered with
cocoa-nut trees; from that fact, called i" Cocoa-nut Island." A small channel runs between this and the main
land, which is low, and sweeps round to the western cliffs
in a beautifully curved sandy beach of about two miles,
making the form of the bay that of a flattened horse-shoe.
The beach is covered with varied vegetation, and ornamented by clumps and single trees of lofty cocoa-nut,
among which the habitations of the natives are seen, not
in a village, but scattered every where among the plantations, like farm houses in a thickly inhabited country.
The Mission Houses were pointed out to us, pleasantly
situated near the water, about the middle of the curvature
forming 'the head of the bay. At a very short distance
from the beach, the bread-fruit trees were seen in heavy
groves, in every direction, intersected with the pandanus
and tutui, or candle-tree, the hibiscus and the acacia, &c,
The tops of these rising gradually one above another, as
the country gently ascended towards the mountains in the
interior, presented for twenty or thirty miles in the southeast, a delightful forest scene, totally different in extent
from any thing I had before witnessed on the Islands.
The Blonde anchored in the centre of the bay, and
shortly after dinner the barge was lowered, to carry us to
our friends on shore. After rowing half a mile, we entered
a beautiful fresh-water creek, which winds its way close to
the Missionary enclosure, and in a few minutes were welcomed to the cottage of Mr. Ruggles, where Mrs. Goodrich had resided during her husband's absence. They
were greatly rejoiced at our unexpected visit to them in
their remote and solitary abode, though their sympathy
was deeply excited by the cause, and by the evidence of
deep-seated disease, visible in the countenance and person
of a beloved friend.




288          VIEW OP MOUNAKEA.
The gentlemen who accompanied us were so much
pleased with the freshness and verdure of the shore, the
simplicity and rural beauty of the gardens which surrounded
the humble dwellings of our companions, that they permitted the barge to return to the ship without them, and
spent the afternoon and took tea with us.
Besides a visit from the chaplain and surgeon to-day,
we have had the pleasure of a call from Lord Byron, and
the first lieutenant, Mr. Ball, an amiable and kind man,
and a particular favourite of the captain.-They remained
to tea with us, and expressed themselves highly delighted
with Hido.
Tuesday, 14. The sunrise view of Mounakea yesterday was so charming, that I made an exertion to have
HI --- witness the same this morning, before he should be
enwrapt in his daily robe of clouds. The morning was
delightful, and the whole atmosphere perfectly unobscured.
The extensive region of upland country intervening between us and the base of the mountain, was gleaming in
the brightness of the early sun, with all the freshness and
verdure of an American landscape in June; while the
mountain, in its whole extent of breadth and height, glowed
in the richest purple, except where a broad line of ice and
snow, still resting on its sides and summit, added a cresting
of silver. This scenery on our left, the bay with its cliffs
and islands, and beautifully defined beach, and the Blonde
at anchor immediately before us, and the ocean in the distance, made a picture highly calculated, in connection
with the purity and brightness of a summer's morning, to
revive the spirits and strengthen the nerves of one who,
for more than three months, had scarcely seen any thing
but the dreary walls of her sick chamber. After breakfast, supported by my arm, she, with the same feeble and
tottering step, walked through the garden which separates
the two cottages, and was charmed with a variety of flowers, shrubbery, herbs, and vegetables, which Mr. G. and
Mr. R. have collected and nursed, till they are beginning to flourish exuberantly. Among the flowers, I saw
many, the seeds of which I brought to the Islands; that
which is most prized by the natives, is the purple globe
amaranthus. They form beautiful wreaths from it, and




CASCADES OF WAIRUKU.             CAJ
you scarcely pass a plantation without seeing a bed of it
cultivated for that purpose.
This afternoon I joined Lord Byron and party in a visit
to a large fish-pond, of which the creek or river is the outlet. It is a pretty sheet of water in its natural state, excepting strong stone dams, to prevent the escape of the
fish. These are tabu to all but high chiefs; and no one
of rank having lived here lately, the whole pond is literally
alive with the finest of mullet; the surface of the water
is almost in a constant ripple from their motions, and hundreds can be taken at any time by a single cast of a small
net. Expressing our astonishment at the sight, Sir Joseph
Banks,* who, from understanding and speaking some
English, has been appointed by her majesty, interpreter,
caterer, gentleman in waiting, &c. to Lord Byron, very
seriously says, " O dis noting, sir —noting-I see him
before now;-he so full fish, I see one man, he fall backwards in him, he no sink at all!"
After satisfying our curiosity here, we rowed down the
creek and across the bay, to another stream on the western side of the harbour, called Wairuku-river of destruction-where the ships get their water. The entrance of
this river is highly romantic and beautiful, the banks being
precipitous and rocky, and covered with a variety of vegetation. About a hundred yards above the beach, it opens
into a still deep basin, encircled by high cliffs. Into this
basin the whole stream is projected by two cascades, the
upper about twenty feet, and the lower about eight feet,
both rushing over their respective ledges of rock in unbroken sheets. A rude bridge crosses the stream just above
the falls; and it is a favourite amusement of the natives to plunge from it, or from the adjoining rocks, into
the rapids, and pass head foremost over both falls, into the
lower basin. Some of them were engaged in this sport
when we arrived, for the gratification of Lieutenants Keith,
Talbot, and Gambler, whom we found there. The accession of our party collected a greater crowd, and the cliffs
and rocks were quickly covered with men, women,
and children, many of whom not only passed over the
falls in the manner described, but jumped also from a
* A native so called.
25




INHABITNTS OF HIDO.


height of thirty, forty, and fifty feet, into the basin, which.
though small, is of very great depth.
The inhabitants of Hido are in a state of much greater
simplicty than those in many other parts of the Islands,
owingto the infrequency of the visits of ships, and a less
degree of the corrupting influence of foreign example in
vice. More of the primitive character of the Islanders,
its artless diffidence and timidity, is perceptible, than
in the natives of Maui, Oahu, &c. And though these
traits are far from being unmingled with licentiousness,
and many of the abominations of heathenism, still they
are more pleasing than the impudence and unblushing
vulgarity observable in those who have had long intercourse
with the abandoned seamen and vagabonds, who frequent
the less remote parts.
We passed near the chapel on our return. It stands
almost midway between the Mission House and the watering place, close to the beach, and although small, is well
built, and neatly thatched. The thatching of the houses
in general, here, is altogether more neat and beautiful than
at the leeward islands. It is made from the leaves of the
padanus, and so put on as to conceal all the rudeness of
the timber and sticks on the inside; while on the outside, a
deep edging of fern, along the peak and ends of the roof,
and down the corners of the house; having something of
the effect of the cornice and pilaster, give a finished and
ornamental appearance, not seen in the common grass
huts.     ease with which stout timber can be procured
here, enabes them also to build their dwellings much larger thanat Lahaina and Oahu, where the wood most
accessible is small and crooked.
Wednesday, 15. The religious instructions, &c. at
this station, are similar in their forms to those given at the
stations with which I have been most familiar; but owing
to the small number who have hitherto attended them, all
the meetings, except preaching on the Sabbath, have been
and still are held, in one of the houses of the brethren.
Kaahumanu is very zealous, here, in promoting the interests of the mission, and will doubtless do great good by
her example. The people are astonished at the change
in her character, and a good evidence of its extent is,




SACRAMENT ADMINISTERED.           291
that she is every where called by them, the new Kaahumanu.
At the usual Wednesday afternoon meeting to-day, at the
close of the sermon, she delivered a very animated address,
prohibiting all wickedness, and exhorting those present to
follow the teachings of the missionaries.  She always
appears desirous of exerting her influence in favour of the
new system, and of a rigid conformity to all its requisitions: and her authority is so unbounded, and her example
so powerfil, that doubtless wherever she goes she will be
instrumental of great good.
Sabbath evening, 19. Between the native services today, I administered the sacrament of the Supper to our
little number, all of whom, excepting Mr. Goodrich and
myself, had long been denied the enjoyment of that high
and holy ordinance: H —  from her long confinement,
and the members of this station from the want of some
one qualified to break unto them the bread of life, and
pour out the waters of salvation. The occasion proved
highly interesting and refreshing, especially to our afflicted
friend. Many natives attended, crowding the corners of
the room, and with seriousness and propriety seemed to
be inquiring what these things meant. Poor creatures!
may the time not be far distant when multitudes of them
shall not only witness, but partake, with saving knowledge,
of these rich streams of mercy and of grace.
Monday, 20. On Saturday evening, while with the
gentlemen of the Blonde, Lieut. Maiden, the surveyor,
who shortly after the arrival of the frigate, c rtered o e
of the native schooners for the purpose of falitating the
operations of his department, arrived from Oahu, bringing
letters, with the unwelcome and afflicting intelligence of
the death of Evarts Bingham. The news was hardly a surprise, for we left him very ill; but it was melancholy and
oppressive: especially, from the magnitude of the bereavement to our invaluable and warm friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Bingham. He was their only son, and from his birth had
been the object of fond solicitude and unwearied care.
Mr. Bloxam happening to have a blank book of mine in
in his room, wrote the following interesting lines on the
event



EXCURSION TO THE VOLCAN@O


" Weep not, thy son liveth."
Sweet stranger, scarce thy laughing eye
Had hailed the rising sun,
With that soft gaze of infancy
Which tells the enraptured parent nigh
'hy playfulness begun;
When other scenes than gave thee birth
Were thine-fair vanished son of earth.
The white robe o'er thy limbs was spread.
Meetvesture, saint, for thee,
Whose soul to brighter scenes was fled,
To form the train of holy dead,
The dead of infancyWho washed in their Redeemer's blood
Have early sought their parent God.
The flowers which love had gently strewri
Around thee-still so dearThose flowers were not so fully blown
As that bright palm branch now thine own,
Which 'tis thy lot to bearOh! in the last great day, be mine
A chaplet but as fair as thine!
CHAPTER XV.
EXCURSION TO THE VOLCANO.
Saturday, July 2, 1825.    A party was formed a few
days since to visit the great volcano of Kirauea, and set ofl
early on   gnday, the 27th ult.   I was happy enough to
be one of    e number; and while the incidents of the excursion are fresh in my mind, I hasten to give you an account of them.-Every preparation having been previously
made, we left the harbour shortly after sunrise. The uncommon beauty of the morning proved a true omen of the
delightful weather with which we were favoured during the
whole of our absence.    The rich colouring of Mounakea
in the early sun, never called forth higher or more general
admiration. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the
air, the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, excited a buoyancy of spirit favourable to the accomplishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between us and the object of our journey.




EXCURSION TO THE VOLCANO.          ZYD
Lord Byron had invited Mr. Ruggles, who was also of
the party, and myself, to an early cup of coffee with him,
that we might all proceed together from his lodgings; but
besides the inconvenience of crossing the river, it would
have considerably lengthened our walk. We therefore
chose to take some refreshments at home, and at an appointed signal we proceeded up one side of the stream and
great fish-pond, while the gentlemen of the Blonde followed a path up the other. We met on a rising ground at
the end of two miles, and found the company from the
opposite side to consist of Lord Byron, Mr. Ball the first
lieutenant, Mr. Maiden the surveyor, Mr. Bloxam the
chaplain, Mr. A. Bloxam the mineralogist, Mr. Davis the
surgeon, Mr. Dampier the artist, Mr. White, a son of the
earl of Bantry, and Mr. Powel midshipman. Lord Frederick Beauclerc was to have been of the number, but was
detained by sickness.
Maro, a principal chief of Hido, had been appointed by
Kaahumanu caterer general; and about one hundred natives under his authority attended with our luggage and provisions. Sir Joseph, or, as more familiarly styled, "Joe
Banks,"8 was also in attendance, in his diversified capacity.
The regent had left nothing undone to render the trip as
comfortable as her authority could make it. Neat temporary houses for refreshment and sleeping, had been erected
by her command at intervals of twelve or fifteen miles,
and the people of the only inhabited district through which
we were to pass, had, the week before, been apprized of
the journey of the British chief," with strict orders to have
an abundance of pigs, fowls, taro, potatoes, and fruit, in
readiness, for the supply of his company. When assembled, we formed quite a numerous body, and from the
variety of character and dress, the diversity in the burdens
of the natives, bundles, tin-cases, portmanteaus, calabashes, kettles, buckets, pans, &c. &c. with two hammocks by the way of equipage swung on long poles, borne
each by four men, (one for Lord Byron, in case the fatigue
of walking should effect his leg, recently injured by a
kick from a horse at Oahu, and the other for the chaplain,)
made, while marching in single file along the narrow wind25~




294      EXCURSION TO THE VOLCANO.
ing path which formed our only road, quite a grotesque and:
novel appearance.
For the first four miles the country was open and uneven,
and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, and single
trees of the bread-fruit, pandanus, and candle tree. We
then came to a wood, four miles in width, the outskirts of
which exhibited a rich and delightful foliage. It was composed principally of the candle-tree, whose whitish leaves
and blossoms afforded a fine contrast to the dark green of
the various parasitical plants which hung in luxuriant tfstoons and pendants from their very tops to the ground,
forming thick and deeply shaded bowers round their
trunks. The interior was far less interesting, presenting
nothing but an impenetrable thicket, on both sides of the
path. This was excessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of loose and pointed pieces of lava, which,
from their irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore
our shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles.
The high brake, ginger, &c. which border and overhang
the path, were filled with the rain of the night, and added
greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleasantness of the
walk. An hour and a half, however, saw us safely through.
and refreshing ourselves in the charming groves with which
the wood was here again bordered.
The whole of the way, from this place to within a short
distance of the volcano, was very much of one character.
The path, formed of black lava, so smooth in some places
as to endanger falling, and still shewing the configuration
of the molten stream as it had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, led midway through a strip of open
uncultivated country, from three to five miles wide, skirted
on both sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered
with fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of
the whortleberry. The fruit of this, of the size of a small
gooseberry, and of a bright yellow colour, tinged on one
side with red, was very abundant, and, though of insipid
taste, refreshing from its juice. There were no houses
near the path, but the thatch of a cottage was occasionally
observed peeping from the edge of the wood, and here and
there the white smoke of a kindling fire curled above the
thick foliage of the trees. Far on the right and west,




EXCURSION TO THE VOLCANO.


295


Mounaroa and Mounakea were distinctly visible; and at
an equal distance, on the left and east, the ocean, with its
horizon, from the height at which we viewed it, mingling
with the sky.
We dined thirteen miles from the bay, under a large
candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by a
party of people who had been waiting by the wayside to
see the " arii nui mai Perekania mai,'-" great chief
from Britain."  About two miles farther, we came to the
houses erected for our lodgings the first night. Thinking
it, however, too early to lie by for the day, after witnessing
a dance performed by a company from the neighbouring
settlements, we hastened on, intending to sleep at the next
houses, ten miles distant; but night overtaking us before
we reached them, just as darkness set in, we turned aside
a few rods, to the ruins of two lhuts, the sticks only of
which were remaining. The natives, however, soon covered them with fern, the leaves of the tutui, &c., a quantity of which they also spread on the ground, before spreading the mats which were to be our beds.
Our arrival and encampment produced quite a picturesque and lively scene; for the Islanders, who are not
fond of such forced marches as we had made during the
day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, and
proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations for the
night. The darkness as it gathered round us, rendered
more gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty
of our situation still more striking. Behind the huts, in
the distance, an uplifted torch of the blazing tutui nut,
here and there indistinctly revealed the figures and costume of many, spreading their couches under the bushes
in the open air. A large lamp suspended from the centre
of our rude lodge, entirely open in front, presented us in
bolder relief, seated a la Turc round Lord Byron, who
poured " to each the cup that cheers but not inebriates;"
the more curious of our dusky companions, both male and
female, were in the mean time pressing in numbers round
our circle, as if anxious to " catch the manners living as
they rose."  A large fire of brush-wood, at some distance
in front, exhibited the objects of the foreground in still
stronger lights and shadows. Groups of both sexes, and




296      EXCURSION To THE VOLCANO.
all ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped
up from the chilliness of the evening air, in their large kiheis or mantles, of white, black, green, yellow, and red;
some smoking, some throwing in, and others snatching
from the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of food;
some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call of a straggler just arriving; others wholly taken up with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our supper; and all chattering with the volubility of so many magpies.
By daylight the next morning, we were on the road
again, and shortly after met Lieutenant Talbot, Mr. Wilson, the purser, and Mr. M'Rea, the botanist, with their
guides and attendants, on their return; they having preceded us three days in the same excursion. As they intended to reach the frigate in time for dinner, they stopped
only long enough to say the volcano was in fine action,
and highly worth visiting. At nine o'clock we passed the
last houses put up for our accommodation on the way; and
at eleven o'clock had arrived within three miles of the object of our curiosity. For the last hour the scenery had
become more interesting, our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves and clusters of trees, and fringed with a
greater variety of vegetation. tHere also the smoke from
the volcano was first discovered, settling in light fleecy
clouds to the south-west. Our resting place at this time,
was a delightful spot, commanding a full view of the wide
extent of country over which we had travelled, and beyond,
and around it, the ocean, which, from the vast and almost
undistinguished extent of its horizon, seemed literally an
" illimitable sea."  The smooth greensward, under the
shade of a majestic acacia, almost encircled by thickets of
a younger growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to
take our luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried
but a few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object before us.
The nearer we approached, the more heavy the columns
of smoke appeared, and roused to intenseness our curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of this
excitement, we hastened forward with rapid steps, regardless of the heat of a noonday sun, and the fatigue of a walk




ARRIVAL AT THE CRATER.


297


of thirty-six miles, already accomplished. A few minutes
before twelve o'clock, we came suddenly on the brink of
a precipice, covered with shrubbery and trees, one hundred
and fifty or two hundred feet high. Descending this by a
path almost perpendicular, we crossed a plain half a mile
in width, enclosed, except in the direction we were going,
by the cliff behind us, and found ourselves a second time
on the top of a precipice iour hundred feet high, also covered with bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept
off to the right and left, enclosing in a semi-circular form,
a level space about a quarter of a mile broad; immediately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our
search, emitting volumes of vapour and smoke; and labouring and groaning, as if in inexpressible agony from
the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom.
We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance,
then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height,
and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater.
There are scenes to which description, and even painting can do no justice; and in conveying any adequate impression of which, they must ever fail. Of such, an elegant traveller rightly says, "the height, the depth, the
length, the breadth, the combined aspect, may all be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will remain untouched by the emotions of admiration and sublimity which
the eye-witness experiences."  That which here burst on
our sight was emphatically of this kind; and to behold it
without singular and deep emotion, would demand a familiarity with the more terrible phenomena of nature,
which few have the opportunity of acquiring. Standing
at an elevation of one thousand five hundred feet, we
looked into a black and horrid gulf, not less than eight
miles in circumference, so directly beneath us, that, in appearance, we might, by a single leap, have plunged into its
lowest depth. The hideous immensity itself, independent
of the many frightful images which it embraced, almost
caused an involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But
when to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various unnatural and fearful noises, the muttering and sighing, the groaning and blowing, the every agonized strug.
gling of the mighty action within, as a whole, it is too hor



298     DESCRIPTION OF THE VOLCANO.
rible! And for the first moment I felt like one of my
friends, who, on reaching the brink, recoiled, and covered
his face, exclaiming, "Call it weakness, or what youplease,
but I cannot look again." It was sufficient employment
for the afternoon, simply to sit and gaze on the scene;
and though some of our party strolled about, and one or
two descended a short distance into the crater, the most
of our number deferred all investigation till the next
morning.
From what I have already said, you will perceive that
this volcano differs, in one respect, from most others of
which we have accounts: the crater, instead of being the
truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in an upland
country, near the base of the mountain Mounaroa-approached, not by ascending a cone, but by descending two
vast terraces; and not visible from any point at a greater
distance than half a mile, a circumstance which, no doubt,
from the suddenness of the arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from the brink.
It is probable that it was originally a cone, but assumed
its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, from the falling in of the whole summit. Of this the precipices we
descended, which entirely encircle the crater, in circumferences of fifteen and twenty miles, give strong evidence
they have unquestionably been formed by the sinking of
the mountain, whose foundations had been undermined by
the devouring flames beneath. In the same manner, one
half of the present depth of the crater has, at no very remote period, been formed. About midway from the top,
a ledge of lava, in some places only a few feet, but in
others many rods wide, extends entirely round, at least as
far as an examination has been made, forming a kind of
gallery, to which you can descend in two or three places,
and walk as far as the smoke, settling at the south end,
will permit. This offset bears incontestable marks of
having once been the level of the fiery flood now boiling
in the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, by
some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, and
sunk the abyss many hundred feet, to its present depth.
The gulf below contains probably not less tan sizte



NIGHT SCENE.


299


fifty-six have been counted-smaller conical craters, many
of which are in constant action. The tops and sides of
two or three of these are covered with sulphur, of mingled
shades of yellow and green. With this exception, the
ledge, and every thing below it, are of a dismal black.
The upper cliffs on the northern and western sides, are
perfectly perpendicular, and of a red colour, every where
exhibiting the seared marks of former powerful ignition.
Those on the eastern side are less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, of a delicate and beautiful
yellow. The south end is wholly obscured by the smoke,
which fills that part of the crater, and spreads widely over
the surrounding horizon.
As the darkness of the night gathered round us, new
and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after
fire, which the glare of mid-day had entirely concealed, began to glimmer on the eye, with the first shades of evening; and as the darkness increased, appeared in such rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty lighting of the lamps of a city, on the sudden approach of a
gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters nearest
to us were in full action, every moment casting out stones,
ashes, and lava, with heavy detonations, while the irritated
flames accompanying them, glared widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides of the ledge and upper cliffs, richly illuminating the volumes of smoke at the
south end, and occasionally casting a bright reflection on
the bosom of a passing cloud. 'Ihe great seat of action,
however, seemed to be at the southern and western end,
where an exhibition of ever-varying fireworks was presented, surpassing in beauty and sublimity all that the ingenuity of art ever devised.  Rivers ot fire were seen rolling in splendid coruscation among the labouring craters,
and on one side a whole lake, whose surface constantly
flashed and sparkled with the agitation of contending currents.
Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued, it
was near midnight before we gave ourselves to a sleep,
often interrupted during, the nirhl, to gaze on the sight
it reaewed wonder and surprise. As l laid myself down




300       DESCENT INTO THE CRATER.
on my mat, fancying that the very ground which was my
pillow shook beneath my head-the silent musings of my
mind were,-" Great and marvellous are thy works, Lord
God Almighty! greatly art thou to be feared, thou King
of saints!"
On Wednesday, the 29th, after an early breakfast, our
party, excepting Lieutenant Malden, who was ill, Mr.
Dampier, who remained to take a sketch, and Mr Ruggles, who chose to stroll above, prepared for a descent into
the crater. One of the few places where this is practicable, was within a rod of the hut in which we lodged. For
the first four hundred feet, the path was steep, and, from
the looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required caution in every movement. A slight touch was
sufficient to detach these, and send them bounding downwards hundreds of feet, to the imminent danger of any
one near them.  The remaining distance of about the
same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path having
turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, which ran
off in an inclined plane till it met the ledge before described, more than a quarter of a mile west of the place
where we began the descent. By the time we arrived
here, the natives acting as guides with the Messrs. Bloxam and Mr. Powell, had preceded the rest of our number
too far to be overtaken, and we became two parties for
the rest of the morning; the last into which I fell, consisting of Lord Byron, Mr. Ball, Mr. Davis, Mr. White, with
Lord Byron's servant and my native boy, to carry a canteen of water, and the specimens we might collect.
Previous to our descent we had provided ourselves with
long canes and poles, by which we might test the soundness of any spot before stepping on it, and immediately
on reaching the ledge we found the wisdom of the precaution. This offset is formed wholly of scoria and lava,
mostly burned to a cinder, and every where intersected by
deep crevices and chasms, from many of which light vapour and smoke were emitted, and from others a scalding
steam. The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation; retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and
so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice, While the




DESCENT INTO THE CRATER.            Mtl
hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, sufficiently
assured us of the unsubstantial character of the whole
mass. In some places, by thrusting our sticks down with
force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep
fissures and holes, apparently without bottom. These
however were generally too small to appear dangerous.
The width of this ledge is constantly diminished in a
greater or less degree, by the falling of large masses from
its edges into the crater; and it is not improbable that in
some future convulsion, the whole structure may yet be
plunged into the abyss below.
Leaving the sulphur banks on the eastern side behind us,
we directed our course along the northern part to the western cliffs. As we advanced, these became more and more
perpendicular, till they presented nothing but the bare and
upright face of an immense wall, from eight to ten hundred
feet high, on whose surtace huge stones and rocks hung,
apparently so loosely as to threaten falling, at the agitation
of a breath. In many places a white curling vapour issued from the sides and summit of the precipice; and in
two or three places streams of clay-coloured lava, like
small waterfalls, extending almost from the top to the bottom, had cooled, evidently at a very recent period. At
almost every step, something new attracted our attention,
and by stopping sometimes to look up, not without a feeling
of apprehension at the enormous masses above our heads,
at others to gain, by a cautious approach to the brink of
the gulf, a nearer glance at the equally frightful depth below; at one time turning aside to ascertain the heat of a
column of steam, and at another to secure some unique or
beautiful specimen, we occupied more than two hours in
proceeding the same number of miles.
At that distance from our entrance on the ledge, we
came to a spot on the western side, where it widened many
hundred feet, and terminated next the crater, not as in
most other places, perpendicularly, but in an immense
heap of broken slabs and blocks of lava, loosely piled
together as they had fallen in some convulsion of the
mountain, and jutting off to the bottom in a frightful mass
of ruin. Here, we had been informed, the descent into
the depth of the crater could be most easily made; hut
26




302           EMOTIONS EXCITED.
being without a guide, we were entirely at a loss what
course to take, till we unexpectedly descried the gentlemen who had preceded us, reascending. They dissuaded
us most strenuously from proceeding farther; but their
lively representations of the difficulty Pnd dangers of the
way, only strengthened the resolution of Lord Byron to
go down; and knowing that the crater had been crossed
at this end, we hastened on, notwithstanding the refusal of
the guide to return with us. The descent was as perilous as it had been represented; but by proceeding with
great caution, testing well the safety of every step before
committing our weight to it, and often stopping to select
the course which seemed least hazardous, in the space
of about twenty minutes, by a zigzag way, we reached
the bottom, without any accident of greater amount than
a few scratches on the hands from the sharpness and
roughness of the lava, by which we had occasionally been
obliged to support ourselves.  When about half way
down, we were encouraged to persevere in our undertaking, by meeting a native who had descended on the opposite side, and passed over. It was only, however, from
the renewed assurance it gave of the practicability of the
attempt; for besides being greatly fatigued, he was much
cut and bruised from a fall, said the bottom was " inoino roa-ka wahi O'debelo!" —" excessively bad, the
place of the devil!"-and he could be prevailed on to return with us only by the promise of a large reward.
It is difficult to say whether sensations of admiration or
of terror predominated, on reaching the bottom of this tremendous spot. As I looked up at the gigantic wall which
on every side rose to the very clouds, I felt oppressed to
a most unpleasant degree, by a sense of confinement.
Either from the influence of imagination, or from the
actual effect of the intense power of a noonday sun beating directly on us, in addition to the heated and sulphureous atmosphere of the volcano itself, I for some moments
experienced an agitation of spirits and difficulty of respiration, that made me cast a look of wishful anxiety towards
our little hut, which, at an elevation of near fifteen hundred
feet, seemed only like a bird's nest on the opposite cliff




APPEARANCE OF THE BOTTOM.


303.These emotions, however, soon passed off, and we began,
with great spirit and activity, the enterprise before us.
I can compare the general aspect of the bottom of the
crater, to nothing that will give a livelier image of it to your
mind, than to the appearance the Otsego Lake would present, if the ice with which it is covered in the winter, were
suddenly broken up by a heavy storm, and as suddenly frozen again, while large slabs and blocks were still toppling,
and dashing, and heaping against each other, with the motion
of the waves. Just so rough and distorted was the black
mass under our feet, only a hundred fold more terrific,
independently of the innumerable cracks, fissures, deep
chasms and holes, from which sulphureous vapour, steam,
and smoke were exhaled, with a degree of heat that testified to the near vicinity of fire.
We had not proceeded far, before our path was intersected by a chasm at least thirty feet wide, and of a
greater depth than we could ascertain, at the nearest distance we dare approach. The only alternative was to
return, or follow its course till it terminated, or became
narrow enough to be crossed. We chose the latter, but
soon met an equally formidable obstacle in a current of
smoke, so highly impregnated with a suffocating gas, as
not to allow of respiration.  What a situation for a group
of half a dozen men, totally unaware of the extent of peril
to which they might be exposed! The lava on which we
stood was in many places so hot, that we could not hold
for a moment in our hands, the pieces we knocked off for
specimens. On one side lay a gulf of unfathomable depth,
on the other, an inaccessible pile of ruins, and immediately
in front an oppressive and deadly vapour. While hesitating what to do, we perceived the smoke to be swept round
occasionally, by an eddy of the air, in a direction opposite
to that in which it most of the time settled; and watching
an opportunity when our way was thus made clear, we
held our breath, and ran as rapidly as the dangerous character of the path would permit, till we had gained a place beyond its ordinary course.  We here, unexpectedly, found
ourselves also delivered from the other impediment to our
progress; for the chasm abruptly ran off in a direction far
from that we wished to pursue. Our escape from the




304             BURNING CONE.
vapour, however, was that which we considered the most
important; and so great was our impression of the danger
to which we had been exposed from it, that when we saw
our way to the opposite side open, without any special
obstacle before us, we felt disposed formally to return
thanks to Almighty God for our deliverance. But before
this was proposed, all our number, except Lord Byron,
Mr. Davis, and myself, had gone forward so far as to be
out of.call; and, for the time, the external adoration of
the Creator, from the midst of one of the most terrible of
his works, was reluctantly waved.
At an inconsiderable distance from us, was one of the
largest of the conical craters, whose laborious action had
so greatly impressed our minds during the night, and we
hastened to a nearer examination of it: so prodigious an
engine I never expect again to behold. On reaching its
base, we judged it to be one hundred and fifty feet high, a
huge, irregularly shapen, inverted funnel of lava, covered
with clefts, orifices, and tunnels, from which bodies of
steam escaped with deafening explosion, while pale flames,
ashes, stones, and lava, were propelled with equal force
and noise, from its ragged and yawning mouth. The
whole formed so singularly terrific anl object, that, in order
to secure a hasty sketch of it, I permitted the other gentlemen to go a few yards nearer than I did, while I occupied myself with my pencil. Lord Byron and his servant
ascended the cone several feet, but found the heat too
great to remain longer than to detach, with their sticks, a
piece or two of recent lava, burning hot.
So highly was our admiration excited by the scene, that
we forgot the danger to which we might be exposed, should
any change take place in the currents of destructive gas,
which exist, in a greater or less degree, in every part of
the crater; till Mr. Davis, after two or three intimations
of the propriety of an immediate departure, warned us in
a most decided tone, not only as a private friend, but as a
professional gentleman, of the peril of out situation;
assuring us, that three inspirations of the air by which we
might be surrounded, would prove fatal to every one of
us. We felt the truth of the assertion, and notwithstanding the desire we had of visiting a similar cone, covered




PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE*            305
with a beautiful incrustation of sulphur, at the distance
from us of a few hundred yards only, we hastily took the
speediest course from so dangerous a spot. The ascent to
the ledge was not less difficult and frightful than the descent
had been, and, for the last few yards, was almost perpendicular; but we all succeeded in safely gaining its top,
not far from the path by which we had in the morning
descended the upper cliff.
We reached the hut about two o'clock, nearly exhausted
from fatigue, thirst, and hunger; and had immediate reason to congratulate ourselves on a most narrow escape
from suffering an extreme danger, if not from death. For,
on turning round, we perceived the whole chasm to be
filled with thick sulphureous smoke; and within half an
hour, it was so completely choked with it, that not an
object below us was visible. Even where we were, in
the unconfined region above, the air became so oppressive, as to make us think seriously of a precipitate retreat.
This continued to be the case for the greater part of the
afternoon. A dead calm took place both within and without the crater, and from the diminution of noise, and the
various signs of action, the volcano itself seemed to be
resting from its labours.
Mr. Ruggles, during his morning ramble, had gathered
two large buckets of fine strawberries, which made a
delightful dessert at our dinner. The mountains of Hawaii
are the only parts of the islands on which this delicious
fruit is found. A large red raspberry is also abundant on
them; but even when fully ripe, it has a rough acid taste,
similar to that of an unripe blackberry. The flavour of
the strawberry, however, is as fine as that of the same
fruit in America.
Towards evening, the smoke again rolled off to the south,
before a fresh breeze; and every thing assumed its ordinary
aspect. At this time, Lieutenant Maiden, notwithstanding
his indisposition, succeeded in getting sufficient data to
calculate the height of the upper cliff: he made it nine
hundred feet; agreeing with the measurement of Mr.
Goodnricf and Mr. Chamberlain some months before. If
this be correct, it is judged that the height of the ledge
cannot be less than six hundred feet; making the whole
26~




.iUti     ERtPTION OF THE VOLCANO.
depth of the crater, that which I have stated in the preceding pages, fifteen hundred feet. On similar grounds, the
circumference of the crater at its bottom has been estimated at a distance of from five to seven miles; and at its
top, from eight to ten miles.
Greatly to our regret, we found it would be necessary
to set off on our return early the next morning, all the
provisions of the natives being entirely expended. We
could have passed a week here with undiminished interest,
and wished to remain at least one day longer, to visit the
sulphur banks, which abound with beautiful crystallizations, and to make some researches on the summit. We
would have been glad, also, to have added to the variety
of specimens already collected, especially of the volcanic
sponge, and capillary volcanic glass, not found on the side
of the crater where we encamped. But it was impossible;
and we made preparations for an early departure. Just
as these were completed, in the edge of the evening,
another party from the Blonde, consisting of about a
dozen midshipmen, arrived, with whom we shared our
lodgings for the night.
The splendid illuminations of the preceding evening
were again lighed up with the closing of the day; and
after enjoying their beauty for two or three hours with
renewed delight, we early sought a repose, which the
fatigue of the morning had rendered most desirable. The
chattering of the Islanders around our cabins, and the
occasional sound of voices in protracted conversation
among our own number, had, however, scarcely ceased
long enough to admit of sound sleep, when the volcano
again began roaring and labouring with redoubled activity.
The confusion of noises was prodigiously great. In addition to all we had before heard, there was an angry muttering from the very bowels of the abyss, accompanied, at
intervals, by what appeared the desperate effort of some
gigantic power struggling for deliverance. These sounds
were not fixed or confined to one place, but rolled from one
end of the crater to the other; sometimes seeming to be
immediately under us, when a sensible tremor of the
ground on which we lay, took place; and then again
rushing to the farthest end with incalculable velocity. The




ERUPTION OF THE VOLCANO.           307
whole air was filled with the tumult; and those most
soundly asleep were quickly roused by it to thorough wakefulness. Lord Byron sprang up in his cot, exclaiming,
"We shall certainly have an eruption; such power must
burst through every thing!" He had barely ceased speaking, when a dense column of heavy black smoke was seen
rising from the crater, directly in front of us, the subterranean struggle ceased, and immediately after, flames burst
from a large cone, near which we had been in the morning, and which then appeared to have been long inactive.
Red-hot stones, cinders, and ashes, were also propelled to
a great height with immense violence; and shortly after,
the molton lava came boiling up, and flowed down the
sides of the cone, and over the surrounding scoria, in two
beautiful curved streams, glittering with indescribable brilliance.
At the same time a whole lake of fire opened in a more
distant part. This could not have been less than two
miles in circumference; and its action was more horribly
sublime than any thing I ever imagined to exist, even in
the ideal visions of unearthly things. It surface had all
the agitation of an ocean; billow after billow tossed its
monstrous bosom in the air, and occasionally those from
different directions burst with such violence, as in the concussion to dash the fiery spray forty and fifty feet high. It
was at once the most splendidly beautiful and dreadfully
fearful of spectacles; and irresistibly turned the thoughts
to that lake of fire, from whence the smoke of torment
ascendeth for ever and ever. No work of Him who laid
the foundations of the earth, and who by his almighty
power still supports them, ever brought to my mind
the more awful revelations of his word with such overwhelming impression.  Truly, "with God is terrible
majesty"-" Let all the nations say unto God-how terrible art thou in thy works!"
Under the name of Pele, this volcano, was one of the
most distinguished and most feared of the former gods of
Hawaii. Its terrific features are well suited to the character and abode of an unpropitious demon; and few works
in nature would be more likely to impose thoughts of terror on the ignorant and superstitious, and, from their




308         RETURN TO BYRON nBAV.
destructive ravages, lead to sacrifices of propitiation and
peace. It is now rapidly losing its power over the minds
of the people; not one of the large number in our company, seemed to be at all apprehensive of it as a supernatural being.
After an almost sleepless night, we early turned our
faces homeward, not without many "a lingering look
behind," even at the very entrance of our path. It was
precisely six o'clock when the last of our party left the
brink. Never was there a more delightful morning. The
atmosphere was perfectly clear, and the air, with the thermometer at 56 deg. Fahrenheit, pure and bracing. A
splendid assemblage of strong and beautifully contrasted
colours glowed around us. The bed of the crater still
covered with the broad shadow of the eastern banks, was
of jetty blackness. The reflection of the early sun added
a deeper redness to the western cliffs, those opposite were
of a bright yellow, while the body of smoke rising between
them, hung in a light drapery of pearly whiteness, against
the deep azure of the southern sky. Mounaroa and Mounakea, in full view in the west, were richly clothed in purple; and the long line of intervening forest, the level over
which we were passing, and the precipice by which it is
encircled, thickly covered with trees and shrubbery, exhibited an equally bright and lively green.
On gaining the top of the first precipice, the distant
view of the crater was so strikingly beautiful, that I stopped long enough to secure a hasty sketch, though most of
the gentlemen had preceded me. A copy I hope to send
with this account of our excursion. We walked rapidly
during bhe morning, and by twelve o'clock reached the
houses built for our accommodation, about half way between the harbour and the volcano. We determined to
spend the night here, and, after a refreshing nap, washed
and dressed ourselves for dinner, which we took at four
o'clock, on a bed of leaves, spread on the shaded side of
one of the houses. We set off before daylight the next
morning, and about one o'clock arrived at the bay,
H —    was more ill than when I left her; and for the
last twelve hours, the family had become so much alarmed, as to think seriously of sending an express for me




ILLNESS OF MRS. STEWART.


309


XMissiom House, Waiakea, July 4, 1825. Lord Byron
informed me on Saturday, when dining with him, that the
Blonde would leave this harbour, now called Byron Bay
in honour of his lordship, on Wednesday of this week, for
Kearakekua, on the opposite side of the island. We are
seriously apprehensive that TH —   will not be able to go
in the frigate. She is exceedingly ill, and every hope
seems again to be threatened. Mr. Davis called me aside
on the Sabbath, and told me he thought nothing but a
speedy removal to a more bracing climate could save her,
and urged an immediate departure from the Islands as soon
as she might gain strength to undertake a voyage. Mr.
Bloxam, who has been deeply interested in her situation,
after a short visit to-day, during which he was particularly affected by her appearance, sent home an album belonging to her, with the following lines, written on returning to his lodgings.. I am sorry to say to those who love
her, but from whom she is removed too far to receive
their sympathy and their special prayers, that they only
express the general sentiment, as to her present state.
"Hark-they whisper-angels say,
Sister spirit, come away."
" Hark! from realms of rest above
Steals the hymn of peace and love:
As the enfranchis'd spirit flies
To her home in yonder skies,
Strains which Eden never knew,
Guide her untrod pathway thro' 
" Sister-ransom'd spirit-come 
Exile! seek thy native home!
Come-the Spirit bids thee-here,
Never falls the parting tear;
Spread thy wings for speedy flight,
To the realms of love and light!"
On board the Blonde, Wednesday, 6, 11 o'clock, P. JM.
H-       was carried from her bed to the barge, which
brought us off at four o'clock this afternoon, and is now
quietly reposing in the after-cabin, far from the noise of"
the ship.  When we came on board, we fully expected to
proceed to the leeward of the island for eight or ten
days; but when Lord Byron saw how very ill H-     is,
partly that she might meet her children as soon as possi



310             LAND AT OAHU.
ble, and partly on account of a letter he has received respecting a piratical squadron, he, an hour since, determined to bear away directly for Oahu. This is joyful
tidings to us, for we had much reason to fear that H
would not have survived to see Honoruru by the other
route. We are overwhelmed by the kindness and affectionate attention of Lord Byron. He has insisted upon
relinquishing his own private accommodations to us, that
we may be free as possible from all the inconvenience of
shipboard. Mr. Davis, who manifests deep solicitude for
II-, on hearing of the determination to proceed immediately to Oahu, said to her, " In his Lordship, madam,
you have really met a brother; he is one of the kindest of
men."  He has our warm gratitude and affection..Mission House, Oahu, Saturday Vight, July 9.  We
passed Diamond Hill this morning at sunrise, and at eight
o'clock came to anchor. Soon after breakfast, the barge
came alongside, to carry us on shore. H —  was removed to the deck, and lowered to the boat in an arm-chair,
where a mattress and cot were ready to receive her. On
reaching the shore, the crew of the barge carried her in her
cot to Mr. Bingham's cottage, where she was safely placed
in her own room, less exhausted than we had feared she
would be. It was thought advisable that she should take
an apartment at the Mission House, on account of the
greater quietude of the upper rooms, and accordingly,
this afternoon at four o'clock was removed. Meeting the
children in good health, &c. has produced an excitement
of spirits which makes her appear rather revived this evening.
Tuesday, July 12. A report from the Spanish main has
hastened the departure of the Blonde. Yesterday some
of the gentlemen, who did not expect to be on shore again,
paid us a farewell visit. Among others, Lieutenants Ball
and Talbot, and Mr. Wilson the purser, all of whom requested permission to say farewell to H —.  This morning I met Lord Byron, Mr. Davis, and Mr. Bloxam at
breakfast, at Mr. Bingham's, after which they came over
to express to Mrs. S —, for the last time, the interest
they felt in her situation, and leave their best wishes for her
recovery. Immediately afterwards, they went to the Point,




SUCCESS OF THE MISSION.          31 
where the captain's gig was in waiting. Gratitude for their
very polite and unwearied attentions, led me to accompany
them to the beach, where, with affection and sincere regret,
I gave them the parting hand in this world: and in the
course of an hour, the frigate weighed anchor under a salute from the fort, and early in the afternoon faded from
our sight for ever.
FOR nearly three months after the departure of the
Blonde, I was confined, almost exclusively, to the sick
chamber of Mrs. Stewart; and kept brief notes only of
passing events. Incidents of a most interesting character, in reference to the success of the Mission and the
state of the people, were daily taking place, incidents
which testified to a change in the intellectual and moral
condition of the nation, almost beyond credibility. The
number of schools was multiplying as rapidly as books
and teachers could be furnished; and already contained
fifteen thousand pupils, ten thousand of whom were supposed to be capable of reading intelligibly in their own
language: while the population of the whole group were
calling for the means of instruction. Drunkenness had
become a public crime: and the manufacture of intoxicating drinks was prohibited by law. In the region of every
Missionary establishment, the songs, and dances, and
games, and dissipation, once so universal, had entirely
ceased. Theft was becoming unpopular and disgraceful;
and proclamations against every vice had been made by
order of the government through all the Islands. The
Sabbath was extensively regarded as the day of God, and
two-thirds of the whole population in the vicinity of the
Missionary chapels, regularly attended the preaching of
the Gospel; forming congregations, at all the principal
stations of three thousand, four thousand, and even five
thousand hearers. But to fill out the Journal with the
proof of these data, would be to extend the volume,
already enlarged beyond the promised size, to an undesirable length; and I can but briefly add, from a record of




*312         ARRIVAL OF THE FAWN.
a later date, the closing scenes of our residence in the
Pacific.
The apprehension excited, during the visit of the Blonde,
of the necessity of a removal from the Islands, for the
preservation of Mrs. Stewart's life, was deepened soon
afterwards, by the professional opinion of Dr. Blatchely
of the Mission: and in the course of a few weeks, became
the settled conviction of all who had a knowledge of her
situation. As early as the first of September, we consi.
dered the certainty of our return, to rest entirely on the
fact of her surviving, in a state to undertake a voyage, till
an opportunity of leaving the Islands should offer.
That we should meet with a suitable opportunity, at a
period sufficiently early, was very improbable. Three requisites were essential, which we could not expect to find
united in the same ship in so remote a part of the worlda physician attached to the vessel; accommlodations sufficiently large for a family; and a ship homeivard bound.
Indeed, our whole expectation of making a voyage, after
the departure of the Blonde, rested on a visit from Commodore Hull, in the frigate United States, which letters
from the Secretary of the Navy had led us to anticipate.
But Commodore Hull might not arrive for months-might
not come at all-and if he did, even in time for our purpose, it might not be in his power to accommodate us with
a passage.
Such was our attitude, when the ship Fawn, Captain
Dale, of London, touched at Oahu for refreshments in the
early part of October. Mr. Short, a surgeon attached to
her, soon visited Mrs. Stewart; and added his opinion to
that of others already given, that her rescue depended
solely on an early removal from the Islands. From him
we learned, that the Fawn was bound directly to London;
ascertained that her accommodations were large, and superior to those of most ships navigating the Pacific; and
immediately afterwards had proffered to us by Captain
Dale, in a most kind and delicate manner, a passage to
England, with every comfort his ship could secure; but
only on condition of its being accepted gratuitously, as an
expression of his friendship and good-will. Mr. Short,
at the same time, made a similar tender of his profession-: *




FAREWELL VISIT TO MAUI.


al services to Mrs. Stewart and family. I could only ac.
knowledge myself deeply affected by the unmerited kindness and generosity of those, who till then were entire
strangers; and refer them to the decision of my associates for an answer.
A meeting of the members of the Mission then at Oahu
was called, and the subject submitted to them in two pro.
positions: 1st, —" Whether it was my duty, under the existing circumstances of my family, to return, at least for a
time, to the United States?" and, 2d,-" If so, whether
the kind offer of Captain Dale, of a gratuitous passage to
London, should be accepted?" both of which were fully
and unanimously decided in the affirmative: and we began to prepare for embarkation at the end of eight days.
After the first emotions of a decision so important, my
thoughts and affections were hurried to Maui; a spot interesting above all others to my heart, and which I could
not think of leaving, without the farewell visit of at least
an hour. This, through the very great kindness of a principal mercantile house at Oahu, I was enabled to do by
express, in a small vessel, under the command, for the occasion, of Mr. Elwell, of Boston; a gentleman connected
with the establishment, to whom I have often been indebted for similar marks of friendship. We arrived at Lahaina
at midnight, and, as we had been delayed three days, by
head winds, on a passage usually made by such vessels in
one, and no time was to be lost; in despite of the great
darkness of the night, and the danger of the surf, I landed
immediately.
The Mission House had been removed from the place
on which it originally stood, but familiarity with every spot,
enabled me easily to grope my way through the luxuriant
plantations by which it is now surrounded. But how great
was my astonishment, at the peculiar circumstances in
in which I found our inestimable friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Richards. Instead of being permitted, unobserved, to
break their slumbers by the salutations of friendship and
affection, how was I surprised to meet, at my first approach
to the house, the presented bayonet, and to hear the stern
challenge of the watchful sentry, " Who goes there?" and
when assured that it was a friend, how inexplicable to my
27




~14      HEROISM OP MRS. RICHARDS.
mind the fact of receiving the cordial embraces of my broa
ther, not in the peaceful cottage of the Missionary, but in
the midst of a garrison, apparently in momentary expectation of the attack of a foe; and to find the very couch, on
which was reclining one, who to us has been most emphatically a sister, surrounded by the muskets and the spears
of those, known to the world only by the name of savages!
My first thoughts were, that a revolt of the island against
the general government had taken place, in which our
friends had been seized, and were guarded as captives;
or that some formidable party of unfriendly natives had
risen with the determination of destroying them, and from
whom they were protected by the higher chiefs; but, as
soon as an explanation could be given, I learned that their
peril was not from the heathen, but from the degenerate
sons of a civilized and Christian country! The seamen
of a large British ship at anchor at Lahaina, exasperated
at the restraints laid on their licentiousness, through the
influence of the Mission, had carried their menaces and
open acts of violence, against Mr. and Mrs. Richards, to
such an extent as to cause the chiefs to arm a body of
men, and defend them at the hazard of life: and at that
very hour, three armed boats' crews, amounting to near
forty men, were on shore, with the sworn purpose of firing
their houses, and taking their lives before morning!
Only two days before, after a succession of fearful
threats and gross insults, the same party, countenanced
and upheld by their captain and officers, and armed with
knives and pistols, had landed under the black flag of
death, and surrounding the Missionary enclosure, then unprotected, offered life to our friends, only on condition of
their retracting their instructions to the people founded on
the Seventh Commandment. The firmness with which
they were met by Mr. Richards, only made them doubly
infuriate; and, as they seemed ready to fall upon him, to
execute their horrid threats, Mrs. Richards, with the spirit
of a martyr, rushed between them and her husband, exclaiming, "My only protection is in my husband and my
God; I had hoped, that the helplessness of a female, surrounded only by heathen, would have touched the compassion of men from a Christian land-but, if such cannot




RESOLUTION OF THE NATIVES.          315
be the case, know that I stand prepared to share the fate
of my husband! When I left my country, I took my life
in my hand, not knowing when I might be called to lay it
down; if this is the time, know that I am preparedsooner than disgrace the character I sustain, or dishonour
the religion of my Master, by countenancing in the people
we have come to enlighten, a course of conduct at variance
with the word of God." For a moment the heroism of a
refined and lovely woman appeared to shake the firmness
of their purpose, and they retired from the ground: but it
was only to return with a more relentless determination,
and the interference of the natives took place in time,
barely to rescue the lives of their teachers at the hazard of
their own. So resolute were they, however, in the defence, when once commenced, that three thousand men
were armed, and in readiness to seize the ship, and to
make prisoners of her crew, should another outrage of the
kind be attempted.
The statement of these circumstances, with the unfolding of the character and object of my visit, made our interview most deeply affecting; and the remainder of the
night was spent in thought and conversation, of unmingled
sorrow at the termination which was about to take place,
of that union and intercourse, which, for near three years,
had been the source of some of our highest and sweetest
enjoyment.
A first resolution, on the mention of our embarkation
in four days, was, to return with me to Oahu, for a last interview with H —; but, after beginning to prepare for
the visit, it occurred to them, that, under existing circumstances, it might appear like deserting their post; or, at
least, might afford an occasion to their enemies to say,
that they had been driven from their station; and with
sadness, but with firmness, they determined, from a sense
of duty, to forego the melancholy satisfaction they had
contemplated.
At sunrise, Mr. Richards and myself visited the spacious, well-built and finished chapel, lately erected by the
chiefs: and in the pulpit, from which we had fondly hoped
jointly to proclaim the glad tidings of salvation, in tears
and in prayer we looked to God, the arbitrator of our des.




US lti    DEPARTURE FROM MAUI.
tinies, for his blessing on our future divided labours in his
cause. And, in the course of an hour, after having bade
a hasty adieu to the chiefs and such of.the people as were
best known to me, we sorrowfully interchanged embraces,
which we had great reason to fear would prove our last in
this world.
I can never forget the last words of Mrs. Richards,
especially as connected with the scenes through which she
had just passed, and which then might be renewed at any
moment-" It is true, I weep, and shall weep again and
again. A heavier affliction could scarce befall me, than
the removal of your family from the Islands, leaving us
alone on Maui, in the midst of twenty thousand heathen;
but I weep not at my own loss only, I weep also at yours;
I have always been contented in my situation, but I never
knew the happiness of the Missionary life till within the
six months past. It seems but yesterday, that we went
forth weeping with the precious seed of eternal life, and
now we are returning from our work daily, bringing our
sheaves with us, and shouting the harvest home!"
Never did the field of labour I had hoped to occupy for
life, appear so truly desirable: and I found my heart clinging closely to every object included in it, from my associates, and the thousands eagerly desirous of my instruction, to the very trees and shrubbery I had planted and
nurtured in our garden. The struggles of strong affection filled me with sadness and gloom, and during the passage to Oahu, I had almost fully determined, to permit the
Fawn to depart without us, and venture a delay till the
United States should arrive. How great then was my
surprise and satisfaction to hear before landing, that there
had been an arrival from South America, and that a packet
from Commodore Hull was waiting my return. That
gentleman could not know my peculiar situation. Still I
was persuaded, that his communication would, in the pro.
vidence of God, make my path plain, and remove every
doubt then resting on it. And such was fully the case; 
for on breaking the seal of a long and kind letter from
him, though utterly unaware of the importance of thle
information to me, he gave the most unqualified assurance
that it would be impossible for his vessel to make the




EMBARKATION FOR LONDON.           317
proposed voyage to the Sandwich Islands. This was all
that was necessary to render our duty clear as noonday, and we prepared cheerfully to follow the path we
believed pointed out of God.
Still, warm affection for our companions, some of
whom, besides Mr. and Mrs. Richards (especially Mrs.
Bingham) were in circumstances of affliction greatly to
aggravate the sorrow of a separation-love to their work,
and to our work, and the highly encouraging state of the
people, thousands of them delighting in our instructions,
and tens of thousands perishing, from a want of more
labourers, in a field ripe for the sickle-all caused us to
bid farewell to the Sandwich Islands with feelings of
the most painful depression. Rude as was the throng
which covered the beach as our boats shoved off, unlike as
was the whole scene, except in the murmur of sympathy
and the salutations and tears of affection, to the enlightened and pious multitude, and the beautiful and classic
ground on which our eyes rested, as we waved a last adieu
to the American shores-it was scarce less affecting, and
caused an agitation of heart far more oppressive, than any
we experienced, ON THE 19TH OF NOVEMBER, 1822,


'ITHE END.




318


ADDENDA.
DURmN   a visit to Philadelphia some months since, I
presented to Professor Green of that city, a few specimens in conchology, which I had brought with me from
the Sandwich Islands for that purpose. After an examination of them, he was kind enough to transmit to me, for
insertion in my Journal, a description of two. A point of
delicacy, arising from the friendship with which he honours
me, is involved in the publication, as will be perceived
from the article. But, I do not feel at liberty to withhold
from the lovers of science, the result of his investigation;
and trust I shall be excused for acknowledging, in this
manner, the unmerited politeness of the distinguished
naturalist.:
Description of two new Species of AcHATINA, from the
Sandwich Islands.  By J. GREEN, A. M. Prof. of
Chem. in Jeff. Med. College.
ACHATINA Stewartii.
A. testa sinistrorsa-ovato-oblonga.lutescente, minutis.
sime striata-colore varia, nunc unicolore, nunc divertissime fasciata-columella rosea-labro tenui-intus
albido.
STEWART's ACHATINA.-Shell Jheterostophe-conical
— oblong-about one inch in length and half an inch in
diameter-whorls six or seven, rounded and marked wifth
numerous oblique and delicate stria —apex rather obtuse
and not eroded-a deeply impressed line along the upper
part of the whorls, parallel with the suture, periostracha
smooth and very glossy, colour and markings exceedingly




ADDENDA.                 ~19
various, the ground colour is usually greenish or some
shade of yellow, sometimes a single blackish coloured
band accompanies the suture, sometimes this band is
double and of different shades, and on many specimens
there are two bands, one at the suture and one in the middle of the whorls. In some varieties the base of the
body whorl is dark brown, the rest of the shell being of a
dark fawn, and not unfrequently the whole shell is without
any markings whatever; in which case the colour is yellow, the aperture, when inverted, is ear-shaped, the truncation of the colunella is rounded and thickened in a
remarkable manner at its edge; along the inner margin of
the outer lip there is a strong callous ridge, as in the most
of the species of this genus, which gradually attenuates
towards the edge of the lip which is thin and sharp inside,
white and pinkish round the columella.
This splendid little ACHATINA was brought from Oahu,
one of the Sandwich Islands, by the Rev. C. S. Stewart.
He informs me that it is found in considerable numbers in
the deep valleys of Oahu, at all seasons, adhering to the
under surface of the large leaves of a plant called, in the
language of the natives, Ti, and from the roots of which
they brewed an intoxicating liquor, which was in general
use before the arrival of the Missionaries. Though the
leaves of the ti are the favourite resort ofthis ACHATINA,
it is by no means confined to that plant. The Islanders
sometimes eat the animal which inhabits this shell, as they
frequently do fish, without cooking; but a favourite mode
of preparing it, is to tie up, in the large leaves of the ti
considerable numbers of them at once, bake them thus
with heated stones, and then pick out the animal with a
small pointed instrument. The beautiful and shining colours of this ACHATINA, and the manner of their arrangement, forcibly remind us of the HELIX nemoralis or hortensis, so common i the woods and hedges throughout
France and England.
~ There are two very distinct varieties of A. Stewartii,
Foe dextral, or with whorls revolving from right to left.
In the numerous specimens which I have received, there
is no individual of single uniform colour, they are all
greenish, with a single brown band at the sutures. The




ADDENDA.


columella in this, as in the first variety, has, the remarkable thick plait or callosity resembling the TORNATELLA
fasciat. The other variety is more globose, and much
depressed, being three-fourths, of an inch in length, and
half an inch in diameter  this shell is almost always dextral, and of a light yellowish colour, and the callous ridge
along the inner margin is peculiarly striking. The contour of this variety resembles that of the YOLUTA fasciata, Linn.; the lip of that species, however, is reflected.
ACHATINA Oahuensis.
A testa obloga-tenuissime striata-colore ferugineo rufescente-columnella rosea-apertura alba et rosea-labro
tenus.
OAHU ACHATINA-Shell dextral-oblong-about threefourths of an inch in length, and one-fourth of an inch in
diameter-whorls seven or eight, slightly rounded-sutures
deeply impressed and crenulated-periostracha finely striated, and of a light dirty reddish brown colour-body whorl
with an obsolete carina-apex chesnut colour-collumella? plaited, as in A. Stewartii-outer lip thin-inside pi'kish,
darker near the edge.
This ACHATINA is a native of the Sandwich Islands.
It does not appear to be so common as the A. Stewartii,
which it resembles a little; but it differs from that species
in being much more elevated in proportion to its diameter,
in the number of its whorls, in the absence of the impressed line near the suture, and in mny other characters.




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