SCENES
AND
ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY:
OR
8ntmancd aZ f ihtatr    fifes
BY
P. ST. G. COOKE,
LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SECOND DRAGOONS, U.S.A.
PHILADELPHIA:
LINDSAY & BLAKISTON.
1857.




Entered, according to Act of Congress in the year 1856
BY LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON,
III the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
C. SIIERMAN & SON, I'INTERS
19 St. James Street.




" I ADDRESS not, then, the shallow or hurried worldling; but the friendly one, who, in the calm intervals
from worldly cares, grants me the aid of a quiet and
thoughtful, and, if it may be, a poetic mood."








CONTENTS.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
A. Journey Westward in 1827-A  Merry Company-Kentucky
Horse-race-Scenes on the Ohio-Arrival at Jefferson Barracks,...........13
CHAPTER II.
St. Louis in 1827-Scenes at Mess-Anecdotes-A Large and
Lively Garrison-Military Balls,...16
CHAPTER III.
Departure up the Mississippi-Open Boats and Storms-Scenery
-Rock Island-Prairie du Chien,.. 22
CHAPTER IV.
Scenery of the Upper Mississippi-On a Bluff by MoonlightNight Sail, and Prairies on Fire-Lake Pepin-Arrive at Fort
Snelling,..........28
CHAPTER V.
Falls of St. Anthony-Departure-Night Scene with IndiansFall Overboard-Lady in an Open Boat-Galena in 1828Breakfast on Gin-A Gambling Scene-Arrive at St. Louis,. 32
CHAPTER VI.
Jefferson Barracks in 1828-Further West-Fort LeavenworthMarch on Santa Fe Road-Prairie Scenery-Buffalo Hunting, 39
1*




vi                       CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII.
PAGE
Caravan Attacked-Night March, Wild Scenery-A Desert and
a Sirocco-Return to Chouteau Island-Man Killed-Dreadful
March-Camp Attacked by 500 Camanches-Night Alarm,. 46
CHAPTER  VIII.
Life in the Wilderness-Another Indian Fight-Funeral and
Wild Storm-Prairie Animals-Adventure with Wolves,. 55
CHAPTER IX.
Prairie Evening Amusements-Indian Love-story related-Shawah-now-(Indian Battle, Flight, and Massacre),... 62
CHAPTER X.
Another Indian Romance-Mah-za-pa-mee,  5.                      5
CHAPTER XI.
Adventures, and Narrow Escape of an Expressman-His Comrade Killed-Return of Caravan-Escort of Mexican Troops
and Indians-Attacked by Arapahoes —Indian Dance and
Night Scenes,...                                          82
CHAPTER XII.
Part with Mexicans-March for Home-Multitudes of Buffalo
-Prairie Afire-Arrive at Fort Leavenworth,... 89
CHAPTER XIII.
Beautiful Scenery-Amusements at Fort Leavenworth-Trip up
the Missouri-Dangerous Flood by Night-Fine Country,
Hunting..........93
CHAPTER XIV.
Prairie Musings-Platte River-Deserted Indian Town, by Night
-Indian Houses Described-Dangerous Crossing of the Platte
-Ruins of Fort Atkinson, Council Bluffs-Canoe Voyage
down the Missouri-Deer Chase in the River,... 100




CONTENTS.                            Vii
CHAPTER XV.
PAGE
One Hundred Pawnees at Fort Leavenworth-Characteristic
Dances-Sketch of I-e-tan, Otto Chief-His Romantic Life,
and Tragic Death,...109
CHAPTER XVI.
The Indian Character and Customs-Medical System-Superstitions and Ceremonies-Tradition of Migration and Divisions
of Winnebagoes-Agricultural and Hunting System,..115
CHAPTER XVII.
Contains no "Romance"-A Plea for the Indians-Incapable of
Christian Religion —How First to Commence their Civilization
-Plan for their Management,....122
CHAPTER XVIII.
Sketch of Black Bird, a Celebrated Chief-Power acquired by
Using Arsenic-War Chief and Prophet-His Extreme Despotism-Contest with a Rival-Death and Romantic Burial,. 130
CHAPTER XIX.
Sketch of Hugh Glass, a Missouri River Hunter-Their Manner
of Life-Trapping the Beaver-Combat with a Grizzly Bear
-Desperately Wounded and Abandoned-Crawls Forty Days, 135
CHAPTER XX.
Glass's Recovery-Escape in a Surprise and Massacre-Deadly
Combat with an Indian-Rejoins His Old Party-His Revenge, 142
CHAPTER XXI.
A Solitary Walk-Afternoon Repose of Beautiful Nature-A Daydream of the Ancient Indians-Orders for Another Frontier, 152
CHAPTER XXII.
Black Hawk War-Brought on by the Militia-Embark for St.
Louis and Illinois River-Join Head Quarters-Old FriendsVolunteers Organizing-Queer Scenes-March  for Rock




viii                     CONTENTS.
PAGE
River-False Alarm, and Rations thrown Away-Unaccountable Panic at Night-Army Marches North,...     156
CHAPTER XXIII.
General Stampede of Horses at Night-Camping in Wet Weather-Battle of "Wisconsin Heights"-Scenery of Wisconsin
River-Trail Found-Ridiculous Incidents,.... 168
CHAPTER XXIV.
March in a Dense and Dark Forest-Painful Responsibility of
Commanders-Sufferings of Indian Retreat-Forced MarchA Dead Warrior in His Paint,..                     174
CHAPTER XXV.
Battle of Bad Axe-Descriptions of Battles-Report of this
Battle-Steamer Arrives, Firing Grape Shot-Indians Shot
from Trees like Squirrels,......180
CHAPTER XXVI.
Sac Band Broken Up-A  Dandy on the Battle Ground-Embark for Prairie du Chien-Indian Hags-Cholera in General
Scott's Army-Night Adventure,... 187
CHAPTER XXVII.
General Scott's Division Arrives at Rock Island-Brings the
Cholera-Indian Fighters most Afraid-Recklessness-Black
Hawk a Prisoner-Winter at Jefferson Barracks,...192
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Recruiting for Dragoons in West Tennessee-Adventures ThereA Baptist Sermon, and Life at Perryville-Electioneering and
Horse-swapping —Jackson, Tennessee — David  CrockettNashville,.....197
CHAPTER XXIX.
New Regiment at Jefferson Barracks-Cavalry Ill-appreciatedCauses-Instances of Great Cavalry Success-Its Services in
Our Old Wars-The Indian " Long Knives,"... 204




CONTENTS.                            ix
CHAPTER XXX.
PAGE
Winter March to Fort Gibson-Value and Cost of Militia System-Changed Character of Western Frontier-March without an Object-Indian Fear of Regular Troops,... 215
CHAPTER XXXI.
Hot March on a Desert-Great Mortality-Reach Toweash Village-Exchange of Prisoners-Regiment Returns to Fort Gibson, and Missouri and Mississippi Rivers,.. 225
PART II.
CHAPTER  I.
On the " Grand Prairie"-Book-making —A Botanical WalkDialogue-Indian Anecdote,..228
CHAPTER II.
Dialogue on Books and Authors-Discovery of New MexicoCouncil Grove-Splendid Sunset-Gold Mines-Wet MarchThoughts on the Murder of Chavis,. 236
CHAPTER III.
Another Squadron Joins-Dialogue on Newspapers and BooksAn Alarm-News-Pawnee Rock-Buffalo Charge the Camp, 250
CHAPTER IV.
Indians About-Jackson Grove-A Buffalo that could not be
Killed-Dialogue on Indian Tactics-Where shall the Winter
be Passed?-Wolf Howling, Music and Romance-Meet
Mexican Escort,...... 261
CHAPTER V.
Return March-Splendid Elk Chase-Dialogue and Soliloquy- -
Buffalo Chase-Criticism of J. P.R. James-r-Prairie on Fire
-Snow Storm-Fort Leavenworth,.....272




x                       CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
PAGE
March for the Rocky Mountains-Emigrants-Pretty SceneryDialogue-A Prairie Marriage-The Little Blue-A Hurricane-Pawnees-Attacked by a Dog-Splendid Sunrise on
the Platte,..........282
CHAPTER VII.
The Platte-A Phenomenon-Thoughts on Cortez, and Conquest of Mexico-A Picturesque Funeral-Beautiful Camping Scene-Bad Grass-Buffalo, and the Chase-Scene at
Crossing of the Platte-Dialogue-Day-dreams-And a Real
Dream in Ash Hollow,...                           293
CHAPTER VIII.
A Ridiculous Buffalo Chase-A Narrow Escape-Creole "Engages"-Dialogue on Poetry, Astronomy, and Natural Philosophy,...........309
CHAPTER IX.
Wonderful Mirage, and Beautiful Scenery-A Sioux VillageDialogue, Women Compared with Men-Poetry and Romance
Favorable to Women-Verses,......318
CHAPTER X.
Scott's Bluff, Romantic Scenery-The Prairie Animals-Motives
of Emigration-Dialogue, and Night Thoughts,... 328
CHAPTER  XI.
Fort Laramie-Mongrel Population-The Sioux in CouncilMarch for the Mountains-A Lost Squaw and Children-Man
Shot-Night Scene,....335
CHAPTER XII.
Grizzly Bear Chase-Volcanic Desert and Epsom Salt-Buffalo
Chase There-Independence Rock, and Sweet Water-Devil's
Gate, Sublime Scene-Chamois, or " Big-horn" Chase-First
View of Snow Peaks,.. 344




CONTENTS.                            xi
CHAPTER XIII.
PAGE
Halt in a Beautiful Valley-Dialogue on The Beautiful-Tyranny
of Society and Fashion-Golden Sands, Palaeontology-One
View of Niagara Falls,.......353
CHAPTER XIV.
South Pass, Camp in Oregon-The Spring of the Sweet Water
~Moonlight Soliloquy on a Mountain Peak,... 362
CHAPTER XV.
Homeward Bound-Poor Lands of Oregon-Prairie Pet Animnals-Fourth of July Thoughts, Independence, Liberty, and
Equality-What Nations have them-Indian Romance, and
American Literature,..      365
CHAPTER XVI.
Farewell to Sweet Water-The Emigrants-Magnificent Scenery
First Seen by Whites-A Romantic Night Watch, DialogueEpisode of the Florida War,...373
CHAPTER XVII.
Was it a Dream? Watcher's Soliloqu —Singular Disease, Fortunately no Physician-Cub, a Tragedy in Three Acts-Great
Fire and Escape-First March Southward-Evening Meditation,......385
CHAPTER XVIII.
Romantic Cheyenne Village-Adventures There-Our Few
Wants Unsupplied in the Wilderness-March Without Water
-Lost Squaw Restored to her Friends-Long's Peak-Arrive
at South Platte,....395
CHAPTER XIX.
A "New Style"-Dialogue-Lost Hunters Return-Mount Pike
-A Charming Mountain Valley-Night Scenes and Adventures-Storm in the Mountains,....404




Xii                      CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX.
PAGE
The Storm Discussed-Daily Showers in the Mountains, sometimes Snow-The Arkansas, Bent's Fort-Mexicans, Donkeys,
Indians-A Medicine Lodge-Indian Customs,... 412
CHAPTER XXI.
Our Daily Labors-Reverie-Botany-Language of FlowersLast Buffalo Chase-Hard and Hot March-Reach Home,. 421




SCENES AND ADVENTURES
IN THE ARMY.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
MY furlough was past! What varied emotions did that
reflection excite! Strong were the regrets at parting
for an indefinite period from devoted relations; and the
young heart yearning with romantic hope, might well
shudder on the threshold of the real life.
The stage-coach was at the door.
Those sorrowful partings over, with happy elasticity, I
was soon enjoying the rapid motion of the coach-always
exhilarating-but then severing me from the safe haven
of home affections, and hearts which trembled painfully
as I was thus launched on life's perilous voyage.
For at careless eighteen, impressions are fleeting; and
the world, aye, the western world, was all before me, and
bright with the anticipations of novelty and enjoyment:
and the freshness and adventure of travel, were to be
shared by the warm friends of my academical youth.
With a number of these, who, like myself, obeying the
calls of duty and inclination, were to make a long journey westward, I had planned a meeting at a village in
2




1-t        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
Maryland.  And never was appointment better kept,
than by my before widely-separated comrades; and eager
and warm  were the greetings of that midnight hour!
But we were hurried, by an unsympathizing driver, to
resume, together, our night-ride; we had the coach, fortunately, all to ourselves; but right soon, in darkness, came
the reaction of our exuberant spirits, and we began to
drop off into wonderfully confused and uneasy postures,
and the sleep of careless youth.
And thus we journeyed on; joking and joyous by day,
-at night, snarling from unceremonious slumbers.
At Wheeling we made a halt for some days: we had
been jolted and jumbled enough for lovers of variety, and
" la belle riviere" tempted us to embark our fortunes, or
rather persons, on its shining currents; but, in truth, its
beauties were too superficial; and we were assured that
the lightest bark would make but a tedious progress
through its deceitful shallows. So we were fain content,
with our ranks further swelled to a most lively number,
again to take stage, and thus pursue our journey to Cincinnati.  I remember the numberless black squirrels
which we saw the first morning, sharing the rich fruits of
those many corn-crowned hills; and the number which we
found in a tree in front of our breakfasting house; and
how, after being routed out of its topmost branches, the
poor fellows were forced to make beautiful leaps to the
ground.
From Cincinnati we went by steamboat to Louisville.
There we mustered twenty strong; and remained eight
rainy days, waiting for the river to rise. Our time passed
pleasantly enough in that hospitable city, which would
seem to be a favorite with the army, for many of its
officers have formed the tenderest of ties there. During




IN  THE ARMY.                   15
our stay, we shared in the most popular sport of the sportloving Kentuckians,-a horse race. The course is several
miles from the city; but we were all there, and beheld
seven long-legged colts contend for the prize; and that
Kentucky spicing to such pleasures-a fight or two-was
not wanting to complete the day's experience.
In due time the river did rise, and we embarked for
Jefferson Barracks, the new "School of Instruction."
The boat seemed to be chartered by the military; we
filled the cabin, and the deck was monopolized by a detachment of recruits.  The passage was a long, but
merry one; and that cards were played, I am too faithful
a historian to deny.
Many years have elapsed, but I have now before my
eyes the vivid impression of a night-scene near the mouth
of the Ohio. The moon was a graceful crescent, and the
glassy waters, glittering with its beams, reflected, too,
many a lovely star, and caught the soft azure of their
airy depths; and this beautiful reflection of a bright and
starry sky, seemed to tremble at the mysterious and
thorough gloom of the primeval forests.  And another
boat passed by, with its brilliant lights, magical motion,
and solemn, echoed sounds; its bright path, too, and its
long succession of regular and polished waves, each a
mirror for the lovely moon.  There is something startling, if not awful, by night, in those hollow but sonorous
echoes to the escape pipe, which the lofty forests of the
western river-bottoms give out; they seem the angry bellowings of wood demons, aroused by this intrusion of
man and his wondrous works.
Right well do I remember, too, a scene different as
possible, though by night: a western storm  upon the
waters! The boat was, fortunately, moored under the




16         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
verge of one of those immense Mississippi bottoms,-in
itself, by night, awful as the wastes of ocean. The rain
fell as if nature was dissolved: the caverns of earth are
never darker than it was then; the roar of waters and
darkness were the universe. I was alone, and enjoying
its sublimity, forgot that my poor body was exposed to
the tempest.
The boat touched at dawn of the eighth day at Jefferson
Barracks.  Those who had slept at all, had risen; an
adjutant, mounted on an immense black horse, and having
for suite, a whole troop of dogs, received us on the bank,
and proceeded with us to report to his chief, Colonel L.
We were exhilarated in our walk over that delightful spot
by three bands, striking up from different hill-tops and
groves, the familiar, beautiful, but never so charming
reveille.  The Colonel, evidently just out of bed, received
us with great kindness and frankness; and readily consented to our proceeding in the boat to St. Louis; and in
a few hours we were all on shore, exploring the terra incognita of that rising city of the West.
CHAPTER II.
THE characteristics of St. Louis, in 1827, which first
struck me, were the muddiness of the streets-the badness of the hotels-the numbers of the Creole-French,
speaking the French language-working on the Sabbath
-a floating population of trappers, traders, boatmen, and
Indians-and finally, an absence of paper currency.
These were all very distinctive; and in truth, St. Louis




IN  THE ARMY.                   17
had very little of the Anglo-American character. Rowdyism was the order of the day-the predominating influence
of the street population of Indian traders and other
northwestern adventurers.  These men, in outre dresses,
and well armed, were as characteristic in their deportment
as sailors; exhibiting the independence, confidence, and
recklessness of their wild and lawless way of life. All
this was food for my companions on the qui vive for
novelty; they were to be seen in all directions, on voyages
of discovery through the mud, and seemed suddenly to
have become a very homogeneous element in this rare
compound: and parties of officers from  the barracks
daily galloped into the town, which they enlivened in a
sort of sailor-like style. Fun and frolic then prevailed
in St. Louis.
But our duties at the barracks did not permit us to
remain long in this attractive city; so after a punctual
call upon a certain army official, who cures that most
distressing of human afflictions, a consumptive purse, and
after receiving a quantum of hard dollars (not sufficient
to produce a plethora), we bade adieu to the lively town
until-the next time.  Some of the party, like children
pleased with a new toy, had already purchased Indian
ponies, upon which they shuffled off, after a most unmilitary fashion, to their post.
None of the actors in those scenes can fail to recur
with some pleasure, to the gayeties of 1827-8 at Jefferson Barracks.  One of the regiments was in cantonment
on the south side of the first hill; a quarter of a mile
farther on, another, the 6th infantry, was encamped; on
the crest of the next hill, were extensive stone barracks
in progress; and still lower down, on its southern declivity, were encamped the 1st infantry; some staff and
0n "~




18         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
other officers, with their families, were in huts in various
detached situations. Two of the regiments had, a few
months before, arrived from a remote outpost. There,
cut off from the world, and dependent on their own resources, the officers had not failed to make themselves
what amends they might, and to cultivate the most
friendly intimacies, on which were founded a thousand
practical jokes and endless adventures; and the pleasures
and incidents of this, a kind of golden age, they had in
truth, the least disposition in the world to consign to
oblivion.
A day or two after joining, I, with several friends,
dined at the regimental mess of the 6th. It then was a
mess indeed-in numbers and in spirit, a delightful mess,
such as few regiments now have. Noble spirits! brave
friends! How devoted, how social were you then! How
modest, yet how ardent, was your esprit de corps! whereever active service was to be done, on the borders of
Mexico, or in the far North, you were there! And have
you not led the "moving battery" to victory, and poured
out your life-blood, like water, in Florida? You are
scattered and gone, but well I "remember the regiment
to which you belonged."
But the past and the present must be kept distinct. I
thought them  a glorious set at that first dinner.  The
president was Capt. -, with his splendid whiskers and
mustaches, dignified and easy in his manners, he seemed
a type of the old school; and from that, the inference
may be drawn, that he took wine freely when in such
happy company; to the life of which, indeed, he gave a
constant impulse.  And the caterer was Adjutant J., a
noble fellow, whose looks alone could make a friend; and
R-  delighted us with his endless sallies, his jokes and




IN  THE ARMY.                   19
merriment. I have now before me his immense whiskers,
and his twinkling, deep-set eyes, lost nearly in incessant
laughter-and his dance, too, upon the dinner-table,
which was the finale.
Capt.  ~, soon after became in low health, and being
of impatient temper, his spirits sunk under it. His life
was in danger; and as a last resort, Surgeon G. prescribed a singular mode of treatment-a novel kind of
excitement-which was intrusted to Lieut. R. He
paraded daily around the Captain's tent with a long face,
whistling the dead march; and it so happened that, being
first on the list, the Captain's death would cause his promotion. But Capt. -, taking this view of it, very
seriously waxed wrathful, and swore he would not die for
his tormentor's sake; and the cure was made.
What would thirty young officers be at? Not much
time was consumed in considering such a question; in all
intervals of duty we gladly resigned ourselves to the influences of chance or impulse, and sufficient to the day
were the pleasures thereof; none thought of the morrow;
to the many all was new, even the service itself-a new
country and manners, and there were some new Beauties.
Daily, numbers of us would be surprised by the dinnerdrum at the camp of the hospitable 6th or 1st, and then
it was useless to attempt an excuse; go you must to the
mess. Many and delightful were those dinners at mess!
Right joyous was it to mingle with those officers, whose
minds and manners had received a fresh mould from their
life in the generous, the open-hearted, daring and adventurous-the frank and hospitable far West; and what
stores of anecdote and right marvellous adventure had
been laid up in seven years' service at the famous Council Bluffs! Wine flowed freely, our spirits overflowed.




20         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
What other could be more delightful than this favored
spot, with its gently-rolling hills crowned with lofty forest
trees, without undergrowth, save grass and wild flowers;
and a river, the noblest in the world, running by? Such
is Jefferson Barracks. On a level space just upon the
bank of the river, shaded and adorned by clumps of venerable but vigorous trees, oaks and sycamores, was the
grand guard parade, generally enlivened by the music of
a full band-a delightful resort! Ay, and other attractions were wont to fill the measure of its popularity;
beauty added its spell to the charming scene; the young
and lovely came often there at an early hour of rosy
morning, when nature is in her happiest mood.
But how can garrison life be dwelt on?  It cannot,
unless, indeed, we descend to all those trifles that fill the
precious hours and steal away the days. A soldier is all
his country's; his irregular though numerous duties
divide his time, distract his attention, and defeat his
plans. How difficult, then, to avoid the fate of becoming
the mere soldier. A knowledge of the world, a graceful
carriage, easy manners, general but superficial information, with lofty aspirations, bitter repinings, and habits
of idleness-these are his inheritance; the light and easy
garment that he receives in exchange for the mantle of
eminence.  But why now question the seal of fate?
The middle of December found the 6th still in camp.
Our log-fires in front of tents had become centres of attraction; but the smoke was a great enemy to our comfort.  It was amusing to observe a gathering round a
fire; the little circle seated on stools, boxes, or logs;
some one was continually attacked, and would run for his
breath, and forming his circuit, his enemy, less quick,
though airy, seeming to follow at first, would leave him




IN  THE ARMY.                   21
for another, who, in his turn, uttering broken maledictions, would make his circular retreat, seeking another or
the same seat, ere long again to be routed.
The sporting tribe might be seen here and there examining a horse, or physicking a dog, or restraining
vociferously the vagaries of a whole pack of them. A
few sly ones would find their way to old Capt. -'s tent,
which had a brick chimney, together with the luxury of
a mantel-piece; and this mantel-piece had notoriously a
remarkable capacity for holding sugar dishes, whole
battalions of mint phials, not to omit a great julep pitcher,
which was commonly well filled.  Oh camps! with your
exposures and privations, how you encourage and excuse
the solid comfort of a julep!
Before Christmas, the 6th were in the stone barracks,
half finished and uncomfortable, and were crowded several
in a room; and it was our lot, after turning into bunk, in
the " small hours" of the night, to be saluted at day-dawn
with the din of hammers overhead, an occasional shower
of dust and mortar, with a sprinkling of brickbats, which
fairly bade us, at the peril of our heads, "sleep no more."
On new-year's morn many were they who found themselves at that log temple of hospitality, the mess-house of
the 1st, and paid their devoirs to a half whiskey barrel
in the middle of an immense table, foaming to the top
with egg-nog.  The 6th regiment that day entertained
all at the post at a dinner, and midnight found us still at
the table.
On the 8th of January, the 1st gave a splendid ball in
an unfinished barrack; a noble display of flags was above
and around us, with hundreds of bright muskets with a
candle in the muzzle of each. Many from St. Louis were




22         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
there; and Louisville, too, had several beautiful representatives.
Thus flew by six months on the wings of pleasure.
But the time came when the 1st and 6th, long associated
as a band of brothers, were to part; the former being
ordered to the Upper Mississippi.  Their furniture being
packed up, the whole of them for several days messed
with the 6th. Our last dinner I shall never forget; we
sought to drown the bitter regrets of parting in the extravagant enjoyment of the last fleeting minutes. At the
winding up, Capt. G. delivered from a table, in an Indian
language, a characteristic farewell speech, which, as interpreted, began-" Our great Father has long smiled upon
our fellowship; his councils now are bad, a cloud is before
his face," &c.
The summer came, and was passed pleasantly enough.
At its close I was well pleased to be ordered on my first
active service.
CHAPTER III.
ON the 27th of September, 1828, I left Jefferson
Barracks, to conduct a detachment of about forty recruits
to Fort Crawford, at Prairie du Chien. There was no
officer with me. I embarked in two " Mackinaw" boats,
as they are called; they are of about three tons burden,
without deck or box, sharp fore and aft. Mine were old
and leaky. I found it tedious and laborious for eight
oarsmen to force them against the current in many parts
of the Mississippi; and, according to the custom of the
country, took advantage of bare sand-bars and open banks




IN  THE ARMY.                   23
to use the " cordel;" that is, to send ashore ten or fifteen
men to tow the boat by means of a long rope attached to
the head of a small mast. In doubling the points of bars,
and in other shallow places, these men would wade along
with the cordel on their shoulders, sometimes for a mile,
perhaps half-leg deep; it was "working a passage" with
a vengeance at that season.  I made my first camp on
Bloody Island, near St. Louis. While I was in the city
next morning, getting a barrel or two of hard bread, my
sergeant, who was an old hand of the 6th, made, with no
other tool than an axe, a very good rudder, from a standing tree.
The morning after, I passed the mouth of the Missouri.
This river, after draining the valleys of the Rocky Mountains, and receiving tributaries throughout a course of
three thousand miles, precipitates its turbid currents right
across the placid bosom of the Mississippi, to which,
losing its name, it imparts its character.
A few miles above the junction is the mouth of the
Illinois, itself a great river, navigable for steamboats
some four hundred miles; but little known to fame,
eclipsed, as it were, by the grandeur of the West.  I
encamped at Portage de Sioux; it was a moonlit night; on
the opposite verge of a noble sheet of water-the river,
placid and calm, but giving to the ear the solemn, distant
music of its currents-stood lofty and fantastical rocks,
of the height and a little resembling the Palisades of the
Hudson; but these were cavernous, and there were arches,
pilasters, and isolated turrets. They appeared the ruins
of a castellated city; the soft light of the moon helping
out the imagination, with a most perfect clear-obscure.
Some dozen miles below Clarksville, in company with
my sergeant, I went on shore, as I frequently had done,




24         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
to hunt.  We had moved leisurely along an hour or two,
when we began to find ourselves a little out of our bearings, or rather had become entangled with the sloughs of
the river; after much fatigue we found ourselves in the
edge of an immense level prairie bottom, where the grass
was seven or eight feet high.  A high bluff rose beyond,
and I confess that, left to myself, I should have made for
it, firmly believing that it was the opposite bank of the
river; but my companion, an excellent woodsman, knew
better, and saved me a seven or eight miles' trudge through
this prairie sea. But the best he could do was to strike the
main river at night; opposite, as it happened, to Clarksville.  We crossed in a crazy canoe; and I found the
boats had not passed or arrived! What a predicament
for a young commander!  I was much annoyed, but
made out to take a good night's rest in bed, with philosophical resignation.
My men arrived next morning, to my joy and surprise, with nothing amiss, save numerous red eyes, and a
broken demijohn,'which it was plain had been well hugged
before being subjected to such ill-treatment.
Some fifty miles below the Des Moines rapids, when
weary of our slow progress, and with our store of pork
very low, it was reported to me early one morning that
some of the men were in pursuit of wild hogs.  They
soon after brought in two immensely large black ones,
which they assured me were selected as the smallest of
the herd, which had rushed at the men and forced them
to take refuge in trees.  A  settler or hunter of the
vicinity had joined in the sport. They were a seasonable supply, and were forthwith skinned and salted.
While thus employed, a steamboat hove in sight below.
On its arrival I had my boats taken in tow. My recruits




IN THE  ARMY.                   25
soon gave me a spice of their quality; they were enlisted
at Natchez, and were as precious a set of scoundrels as
were perhaps ever there collected; they were drunken
and mutinous from  this time until after we quit the
steamer at the rapids.  One of them, whom I had tied
up with a half-inch rope, repeatedly gnawed himself
loose!
At the foot of these rapids was a passenger barge in
tow of a steam keel-boat, with about twenty passengers,
who had already waited some two weeks with Turkish
resignation, for fate, or higher water, to forward them on
their journey.  Genius of railroads! spirit of a travelling
age! Think, ye eastern locomotive bipeds, who, spirited
over the earth at the rate of 600 miles a day, snarl at
the grievous detention of a minute-think of this, and
learn moderation.  These said travellers spent their
nights, I discovered, playing at cards; how they got
through with their days passes my comprehension.
On the rocks of these rapids I abandoned one of my
boats, having a second time overhauled and attempted to
caulk it. I left it bottom upwards, giving it at parting,
out of pure malice, several gashes with an axe. It was
soon afterwards seized by a wrecker as a lawful prize,
sold for five dollars, and again for ten; and the last purchaser, by sawing it in two and planking up the stern,
had a very good make-shift craft for down stream work.
I had now to leave a party on shore, with orders to
march as much in sight of my boat as they could. Night
came on, and nothing was to be heard or seen of the
detachment.  Until 10 o'clock we kept on, firing signals,
but to no purpose. We encamped on a miserable island;
and in the middle of the next day we found them at a
hut near the shore. All this was occasioned by the im3




26         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
mense number of islands; the main shore had not been
visible for thirty miles on either side.
I was now about three weeks out, and this point was
fifty miles below Fort Armstrong, at Rock Island. Our
provisions were exhausted; nothing but a few potatoes
could be had at the house.  I heard that there was a
trail to Fort Armstrong, which cut off much of the distance; so I immediately ordered my adventurous land
detachment to take it, while my naval affairs went on as
usual, save "that our faces had become longer, and our
belts contracted."  My rifle was sole commissary, and a
deer and a few birds were all it supplied. We reached
the vicinity of Rock Island next mid-day, in a heavy
gale. I had previously ripped a wall-tent, and converted
it into a sail. It was exceedingly cold, the wind almost
ahead, and the waves very high; but I did not feel like
standing on trifles, under the circumstances, and so near
to port. A flaw struck and would have swamped us, but
for the frailness of our tackle; in an instant a great hole
was blown through the sail, then every rope snapped, and
the old tent stood straight out from the mast-head. My
men from numbness, fear, or ignorance, gave me no assistance, so that necessity suddenly made me a tolerable
fresh-water sailor. All arrived safe; but my land party
spent another night out, as the ferrymen at the fort were
afraid, or so pretended, to bring them across to the island,
although they had such a boat as mine.
The next day but one, having taken in supplies, and
been treated with true hospitality by the officers, I proceeded on my voyage.
About this point in ascending is observed a change in
the river scenery; the solemn and drear "bottoms," and
the falling in banks of the lower Mississippi, are scarce




IN  THE  ARMY.                    27
observable above the mouth of the Missouri, where the
river assumes very much the appearances of the Ohio.
At this point again (marked by the passage of a great
rocky chain, developed in dangerous rapids, and in this,
the first, rocky island above the Gulf-and a beautiful
one it is) the shore scenery becomes, like that of many
smaller clear streams, variegated with rock and hill,
pretty valleys, grassy slopes, and gravel beaches.
I arrived at Fort Crawford, 180 miles above Rock
Island, and about 600 above St. Louis, on the 23d of
October, and having marched my party into the fort,
"Where is your order?" quoth the officer in command.
"In my trunk, sir."
"Get your orders, sir, and I will then receive your
party," was his answer.
After this was complied with, no point of ceremony
was wanting; but I was ordered to proceed with the detachment to Fort Snelling. My orders had been to return
from this point "forthwith;" a steamboat was in "port,"
a rare chance, and the gaieties and other attractions of
my post, and St. Louis, arose on my youthful imagination,
only to embitter my real prospect of winter quarters in
the frozen region of the St. Peter's; but,
"I am a soldier, and my craft demands,
That whereso duty calls, within earth's
Compass * * * I do forthwith obey."




28         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
CHAPTER IV.
THE commander of Fort Crawford fitted me out liberally; gave me two more boats, one of which had been
made as comfortable as possible for a lady; and luckily
there were ten disciplined soldiers to go up. To crown
all, I was intrusted with a monthly mail-bag, tied up, the
papers and periodicals of which I was recommended to
read.  I dare say I felt, the first day, as pleased and
comfortable as a new-made commodore.
The scenery grows still more interesting as we ascend
beyond the mouth of the Wisconsin; the bluffs, or small
mountains, always rising from the water on one side or
the other, assume a thousand picturesque shapes; some
are clothed with forests, others with grass-are now
rocky, and again are perfectly smooth.  Perfect cones
are to be seen, and then two such, connected by grassy
plains. Frequently the interior structure of rock is exposed by the action of rains, and art could scarcely
fashion more regular walls than you see; at places they
are vertical and lofty; again, they recede in steps, like
the terrace-walls of a falling garden.
It seemed that all the millions of migrating water-fowls
passed me in review; they appeared to follow the course
of the river, and I ascertained, I thought, that they
stopped regularly at nightfall. How many posts of refreshment a squadron of them  would make from the
Lake of the Woods to the Balize, was not so easily
settled; but our repose was frequently disturbed by the
deafening clatter of their myriads, that happened to
anchor for the night in some neighboring bay.




IN  THE ARMY.                    29
I encamped one evening in a narrow but lovely valley
between a towering massive bluff, covered with oaks, and
a lofty prairie hill. After night, I walked to its grassy
top; the moon was just full, and a long path of smooth
water glittered with its reflected light. Very far, on
either hand, the river was seen amidst the hills, which
it reflected like a polished mirror.  The little valley,
softened by the mellow light, wound its graceful curves,
until lost to the eye in the dim primeval wastes. My
camp was out of sight and forgotten; and after a long
view, full of admiration, a sense of utter loneliness crept
over me, and added to the excitement of many rushing
thoughts. I felt as a wandering being, cast upon a new
world, that beheld from its summits lifeless but strange
beauty.  A light air rustling, made me aware how awful
a silence had reigned, thus gently stirred as by a spirit
voice, uneasy at the first intrusion of a mortal. I could
hear the beating of my heart; the spell which bound me
became painful, and I ran at speed along the narrow
summit; I stopped, and would have uttered a cry, but in
very truth my voice refused to obey me; at last it came
forth, but so unnatural and shrill that it seemed a
mockery. I rushed down from this hill, where white man
had never trod before, and was soon in the midst of those
beings plainly insensible to the stamp of quiet beauty on
all around-the rugged pioneers in these new regionrs of
a race who would willingly mar it all, and plant here, too,
the seeds of care, of strife, and of misery.
Nature, like the character of man, is full of contrasts;
the elements are often stilled, as here, in the calm repose
of beauty, to soothe and soften our earthly passions; and
anon are stirred up to fearful conflict, and seeming to
3*




30         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
threaten the world with wreck, inspire man with the
dignity of strong emotion and lofty thought.
The next evening I was tempted by a favorable wind
to ease the labor of much rowing, and sail long after
night.  As I advanced, I found the prairies of all the
surrounding country to be on fire. It was a dark and
cloudy night; the winds at length blew boisterously-the
world seemed on fire, and there was a lurid reflection of
flames from  water and cloud, and tossed columns of
smoke: it was awful.  We sailed on in spell-bound
silence, we scarce knew whither; the other boats of my
little fleet, now seen and now disappearing, like phantoms
in the horrible obscurity.  How many objects of sublimity! the storm contending with the waters, and darkness wiTh the dreary light of a general conflagration!
At one point we saw a long mountain bluff, which was
partially separated from a lofty prairie hill, shaped like a
sugar loaf, by a narrow and precipitous ravine.  The
bluffs had been charred black as a coal, but so lately that
spots of fire still shone, brighter and scarce larger than
stars; the ravine, its steep sides densely timbered, was
like a blazing furnace; the grass of the conical hill
adjoining was just on fire, and the flames ascended in
graceful spiral curves to the top!
This is an accurate description of the most singular
contrasts and beautiful sight I ever beheld. I had never
imagined mountains in masquerade; but here was one by
which NIGHT was accurately typified.
It came on to rain very hard; it was midnight, and
utterly dark. I steered, I knew not whither, but to touch
land. We did not strike the shore, but an island; it was
covered with rushes, those vegetable files, which I can
hardly think of without having my teeth set on edge.




IN  THE ARMY.                    31
My recruits spent some hours in kindling a fire; but,
wrapt in my cloak, I resigned myself to sleep in the
bottom of a boat.
We lay a day, wind-bound, at the foot of Lake Pepin.
This is an enlargement of the river, about twenty-seven
miles long, and from two to four broad; it is very deep,
and is bounded by mountains and rocky shores; it is
subject to high winds; and lofty waves and sunken rocks
render it dangerous.  While staying here, I witnessed
(and was exposed to some danger from) the burning of a
"prairie bottom," the grass of which was very tall and
luxuriant. I have read a description (I believe in " The
Prairie") which is very accurate, of its wonderful rapidity
-the flame leaping forward with almost the wind's
velocity, the stems of great weeds exploding like pistol
shots. Only under these circumstances, very rarely upon
the rolling prairies, are these fires dangerous.
The wind lulled at sunset, and the lake being notorious
for boisterous weather, I determined to row through in
the night. So, hoisting a light in my boat, in which I
had a Creole pilot, we took our departure. A long and
dreary night it was, and very cold; the water froze upon
the oars.  We arrived in the river above soon after
sunrise, landed and took breakfast.
When my men flagged, and the progress was slow and
weary, it was my custom, on this voyage, to make long
races, offering for prize an extra gill of whiskey to the
crew of the successful boat.  To judge from their extraordinary exertions, a greater prize could not have been
offered; it was a double stimulant.
On the 2d of November I arrived, all well, at Fort
Snelling.




32         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
CHAPTER V.
AT Fort Snelling I found old friends and officers with
whom I had served at Jefferson Barracks: but independent of the most hearty hospitality-which I have ever
met with on these occasions-an arrival, a new face, at
such an outpost of civilization as this, is a bright link in
that nearly severed chain which connects it with the world,
gives an exciting impulse to its small society, which reacts upon the visitor, and is the source of unwonted
pleasure to all.
The defences of this fort are high stone walls; it stands
on an elevated point, the confluence of the Mississippi
and St. Peter's rivers. In the rear is a prairie, nearly
level, and many miles in extent: an agreeable circumstance, when it is considered that chasing wolves and
racing are almost the only resource for amusement and
exercise. I rode over it nine miles, to the Falls of St.
Anthony.  The Mississippi here falls twenty-two feet
perpendicularly; in places, immense masses of rock, disjointed and fallen from immemorial abrasion, add to the
scene a sublime confusion and roar of waters. I heard
that evening at the fort the sound of the falls very plainly.
They are said to mark the 45th parallel of north latitude.
During my stay of two days, one of the Mackinaw
boats in which I had gone up was condemned, and sold
at auction (for $5!) to an officer of the fort, an old friend,
who decided to accompany me on my return.  We took
our departure in the afternoon, having for crew my pilot
and a discharged soldier, with a negro lad for " cabin
boy;" one of us was always at the helm. Some eight or




IN  THE ARMY.                   33
nine miles down, my friend discovered that he had unluckily left a well-stored liquor case. We landed in consequence, near an Indian camp, and despatched two Indians with a note for it; they went in a canoe. We encamped, and were somewhat annoyed by the intrusion of
our red friends.
While waiting for the messengers, let me give an account of our messing. There was abundant store of cold
boiled ham, of the true Virginia flavor-of corned beef,
and of chickens: and the buffalo tongue should not be
forgotten. Our coffee-not used with the stinting hand
of a frugal housekeeper-was made after the most approved method, and with extreme care and attention; it
was drawn with boiling water, like tea, and not suffered
to boil afterwards. But who shall do justice to the venison, roasted in bits on a stick, with alternate pieces of
salt pork? First, the pleasing toil of the hunt, and the
triumph of success; then the labor-inspired appetite, after
the long fast which excitement forgot; then the lively
fire at night, under majestic forest trees; and oh (climax),
the pieces of venison, bitten with nature's weapons-not
profaned with cold dull knife-and reeking hot from the
wooden spit!  "0, let me die eating ortolans, to the
sound of soft music!"  Bah!
About midnight I was awoke from  a sound sleep; a
candle was just expiring in the tent; I looked up and
saw two dark forms almost over me, uttering with violent
gesticulation the loudest and most uncouth sounds. I had
instinctively grasped my rifle, and was very near putting
it to its natural use, but it was our messengers, with the
liquor case, who were half drunk, and making an ill-timed
speech to my companion: seeking, I suppose, to raise the
means of completing their happiness.




34         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
The next morning early, while steering, wrapped in a
pea-jacket, the currrent "took a sheer" on the rudder,
and quick as thought precipitated me backwards into the
river.  I got out without much difficulty, but it was a
rather rough adventure, when the freezing weather is
considered.
True to its character, we passed Lake Pepin with a
tempestuous wind; we had a large sail up, but so deficient
in tackle, that any sudden flaw of wind would have sunk
us. The waves were very high, and I steered with a man
holding my leg, to prevent my being thrown overboard.
But the wind was steady, and we went through safely and
right speedily.
The next day, while sailing with a high wind, we beheld
another Mackinaw boat, making its way to meet us, rowed
by six or eight lively Frenchmen, dressed cap-a-pie in
red. We boarded her in the middle of the river; in
doing which, I unluckily snapped in two our best oar, in
endeavoring to lessen the concussion. We beheld a friend,
Mr. T., an Indian agent; and, surmounting a vast pile of
furniture, &c. &c., his newly-married wife-a rough introduction to the Northwest, she thought, no doubt. I had
passed this party at the Des Moines rapids.
We sailed late, seeking a fit spot to encamp.  The red
light of burning prairies reflected in the troubled clouds,
and again from the waters beneath-the sombre forests
of shore and islands-the winds, now rushing in fearful
gusts through the mountain passes, now heard in the
moaning of distant forests-presented a wild, dreary, and
fearful scene.  The  boat, scarcely manageable, was
tossed and driven, stern foremost, on a mud-bank, where
in shoving off, I further reduced our scanty stock of oars,
by leaving one firmly imbedded. My companion lost his




IN THE ARMY.                    L5
temper; we made a landing, kindled a small fire, and
wrapped in our cloaks, sought repose in moody silence,
each upon his blanket.
We arrived at Prairie du Chien, early on a cold and
frosty morning, and found the troops drilling.  That
drilling, before breakfast, is not a fine thing in practice,
if it be so in theory, either in cold or warm weather. I
well remember at the Military Academy, mere lads as we
were, that fasting and exhausted, with feet thoroughly
soaked with dew, we found such drills almost intolerable.
They no doubt looked very interesting  to the Board
of Visitors, or others, strolling out for a few moments for
fresh air, on gravelled walks, between rising and breakfast.
We luckily found a steamboat at the Prairie, and the
next day took passage for Galena.  We arrived off the
mouth of Fever River at the same time with another boat
from below, and a spirited contest took place for precedence, as the river is too narrow to admit of two passing
at the same time; several skilful manoeuvres were executed by both vessels, and all hands became much excited.
We plainly saw them loading a swivel, which they loudly
threatened to fire into us.  We gave them the go-by,
however, without loss of life or limb. They had loaded
with potatoes, it afterwards appeared, and I believe we
were well contented with escaping the test of their efficacy.
Galena (so appropriately named) is eight miles from the
mouth of Fever River, narrow, deep, and sluggish to this
point; above, it is a shallow and insignificant stream.
This is the depot for the mining district; and though
destined to importance and wealth, it was then merely a
place of business, and as rough and lawless as new. Our




36         SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
stay there was rendered particularly disagreeable by constant rain; and it seemed that no other mud in the world
possessed so nearly the tenacity of glue: so that the town
was rendered nearly inaccessible from the boat by the
high bank.
The Galenians, jealous of the reputation of their town
for health, or discontented with an ominous name, contend that "Fever" is a corruption of the French name
FPeve, or Bean River. (Prairie du Chien, or Dog Prairie,
is said too, to be properly P. de Chene, Oak Prairie.)
I was politely invited to breakfast with a young merchant, with whom I had formed a slight acquaintance
above. So the morning after my arrival, at a seasonable
hour, I abandoned, with some misgivings, the scene of
very comfortable arrangements for that meal in the cabin;
effected an escalade of the bank (of mud), and after much
difficulty in ascertaining the whereabout of my intended
host, arrived at a retail store in a log hut, and was shown
over the counter, into a cuddy of a counting room. Here
I was allowed ample time to make a survey of the dirty
void around me, and to wonder at an alarming delay of
any sensible sign of preparation, or any mention of the
meal, which the damp air and the late hour constantly
conjured to the imagination, before my considerate host
chose to find time to offer me his salutations. A new
period of anxious doubts was then passed in the most
commonplace remarks, which an effort of politeness
seemed to extract from us. At length my kind friend
seemed posed, and seized the desperate expedient of
offering me a glass of-heaven knows what — gin-or
whiskey.
Of the three meals, commend me to my breakfast;'tis
the one I love, and linger over, with silent and grave




IN  THE  ARMY.                   37
complacency; but now, all desperate in prospect, the
matter could no longer remain in suspense. A conviction of the unaccountable folly of having put my trust
in a bachelor establishment, in the new and dismal depot
of the mining district of Northwestern Illinois, or the
savoir-faire of its Yahoo head, flashed over me:-an explanation was demanded; and I believe Mr. M. took the
trouble to intimate that he boarded at a certain eatinghouse, distant a quarter of a mile of chaotic mud, where he
had satisfied the cravings of nature, as well as he could, at
some indefinite antecedent period of that gloomy and illfated morning I No apology being offered-I believe the
fellow had forgotten his ridiculous invitation-I made him
my politest bow, and escaped from his den, vowing never
again to accept an invitation to breakfast; a vow I have
seldom broken, and never, I believe, without regretting it.
That evening, for the sake of a nearer view of men and
things at this Ultima Thule of civilization, I accompanied
an acquaintance to a tavern; and I had in my mind, I
confess, a distinct conviction of the basis of the developments of character which were expected in these miners,
adventurers, and outlaws.  I was ushered into a large
barn-like room, the common scene of eating, drinking,
smoking, lounging, and sleeping; and it now presented
strong evidences, as I expected, of still another appropriation, to wit, gambling. With little delay, and less of
ceremony, I found myself one of seven (I had reason to
believe, the most respectable citizens of the town), around
a table in a corner, and the "papers" in motion; every
man " bragging" according to his " pile;" and I emphatically, on my "own hook;" for I was a stranger in a
strange place. I was more intent upon my observations,
than the matter before me, and it was not long before I
4.




38         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
could count eight or ten different tables, each surrounded
by players, say fifty men, all swearing or talking loudly;
many intoxicated, disputing, and quarrelling.
My interest in this characteristic display might be
thought a little exciting, when it is borne in mind that of
this large and turbulent assemblage, very few were above
my suspicions of any particular accomplishment, from the
slipping of a card to the cutting of a throat.
Being careless, fortune seemed to favor me; and as my
"pile" grew, so the force of circumstances seemed in a
strange manner to increase the visible protrusion of the
handle of a trusty dirk-pistol from the left breast pocket
of my overcoat.  Perhaps it was an instinctive action
upon the maxim, " do at Rome as the Romans do."  My
apprehensions, however, on the score of the silver, were
premature and groundless; I was spared the dangerous
responsibility of guarding home any extra amount of treasure; and in fact, trying to persuade myself of a quid
pro quo, I very philosophically congratulated myself on
a specific gravity lessened by a few pounds avoirdupois,
as I made my soundings through the street, on the dark
errand to my steamboat berth.  The next morning-a
stranger may be allowed to remark it-a man was found
at the river edge, quite dead, from a wound of his carotid
artery.
Mining, or rather the search for veins or "leads" is, in
itself, a pursuit dictated by a restless, unsettled spirit of
adventure, of the same character as that which finds vent
in gambling; and in a new pioneer settlement of adventurers thus attracted, and of lawless, licentious workmen,
a decided prevalence of this and its kindred vices might
be calculated on with certainty. But the same, in a less
degree, is the character and spirit of the inhabitants of




IN  THE ARMY.                   39
all new States; and accordingly, gambling is found openly
to prevail in the West. That indolence, satiety, and a
natural thirst for excitement, debarred from more honorable outlets in old established and formal societies, lead
to the clandestine indulgence of this vice, and to excess,
in the old States, is very well known; but it is concealed
carefully beneath the smoother surface of affairs. In the
West it was almost universal, and is open and unimpeached.
It was not uncommon for traders or farmers on the way
to a market, to adventure.their produce at the gamingtable, then, but happily not now, so universal on the
steamboats.
We were fortunate, so late in the season (the end of
November), to obtain a passage in a steamboat to St.
Louis; so, after a stay of some days at Galena, we gladly
embarked for more congenial scenes.  Cards were the
order of the day, and of the night; it was nothing strange
that the captain and other officers of the boat should be
thus almost constantly engaged; but it was remarkable
that the former personage should be rather more than
suspected of cheating, a circumstance that was very publicly and plainly insinuated by my companion, Lieut. H.
We arrived in St. Louis, December 2d.
CHAPTER VI.
ANOTHER winter was passed at Jefferson Barracks. It
has left little impression on my memory; and I lament,
that I may say, less on my mind. It is a confession that
many might make, under the unfavorable circumstances




40         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
of the service. I had determined to throw up my commission, and to seek a more stirring and exciting profession. At the very crisis, Fate-it is a favorite word with
your soldier, or your Turk-decided differently, inasmuch
as I was ordered on active service, which I did not consider it honorable to decline. Four companies of the 6th
infantry were ordered to be filled up-officers and men
by selection-and to march as the first escort of the
annual "caravan" of traders going, and returning, between Western Missouri and Santa Fe.
May 4, 1829.-We were embarked; the steamer was
aground. I stood on the gunwale of a flat-boat lighter,
filled with men; the scabbard of my sword (fastened to
the belt by a ring) unaccountably became detached, and
fell into the river and disappeared, leaving the blade still
more strangely suspended: it was an omen. Thenceforth
I was devoted to the service of the Republic.
It was remarkable how large the proportion of married
men was among those selected to fill- our companies (but
not strange-for your bachelor, when a little "old," is
good for nothing but to take care of himself). The boat
swarmed with their wives and children; the deck was
barricaded with beds and bedding; infants squalled, and
chickens cackled; the captain was at a nonplus; the
quartermaster was in a fever of contention and official
opposition, and voted all contraband; our commander was
wroth, and stuck for the "free bottom" principle, where
the Government and its servants were concerned. General
A. had to interpose to restore peace; and in the guise of
the founders of a colony, we set forth for our adventures
in the western deserts, where we were destined to see no
woman for near half a year.
In ten days we landed at Cantonment Leavenworth




IN THE ARMY.                   41
(then abandoned by the 3d infantry for unhealthiness).
It was the quickest passage that had then been made.
We were not to march for a week or two; a day for meeting the traders at the "Round Grove," some fifty miles
west, having been agreed upon.
Probably in consequence of most of the oxen having
been bought and conducted to the river opposite Fort L.,
it was determined to commence the march on that side,
and cross back to the right bank above Independence
(thus avoiding the Kansas, where there was no ferry).
We had twenty wagons, laden heavily with provisions,
and four ox-carts for camp equipage.
The battalion marched on the 5th of June. I had
breakfasted and mounted guard at 4 A.M., and at a much
later hour brought up the rear; and it was dark night
when, having marched seven miles, I found myself in the
miry and dreary bottom of the Little Platte River, where
half the baggage train were fast stuck for the night. I
passed on with my men to the ford; the companies (and
my mess chest) were somewhere beyond. So, hoping that
my next breakfast would be as early as my last, I lay
down in my cloak and went to sleep.
Next morning, one of my guard, "an old soldier,"
brought me a nice broil.  " Left'nt," said he, touching
his cap, with a suppressed grin, " will the Left'nt have a
piece of cub?" But, verily, if I had been a Jew, I was
hungry enough to have eaten it.
After a laborious march of five days, averaging some
seven miles a day, through the Missouri and its creek
bottoms, we had again crossed, and encamped on the verge
of the " Grand Prairie." After delving so long in lofty
but sombre forests, we felt highly exhilarated to view from
a light and airy grove its green and flowery expanse,




42         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
which seemed to return the smiles of this sweet month of
June.
Here was delightfully situated on the edge of the
grove, with the advantage of the seldom-failing breezes
from the prairies, like those from the sea, the house (and
the last we were to pass) of the sub-agent of the Delawares-the hospitable old Major C., who, with-ready joke
and julep, did his best to make our long farewell to the
settlements, a lively one.
The next morning we struck out boldly into the great
prairies-a constant succession of rolling hills-here,
and for more than a hundred miles beyond, variegated
and beautified by wooded streams, running first to the
right into the Kansas, then to the left into the Neosho; or,
like that, into the Arkansas River.  This first day's
march was twenty-six miles, and after 11 o'clock we met
with no water; I was scarcely able to raise a foot from
the ground when we arrived in the evening at the Round
Grove, the rendezvous, where we found the "Caravan."
The traders were about seventy in number, and had
about half that number of wagons, with mule and a few
horse teams.  They organized themselves into a company
and elected Mr. B. of St. Louis, their "'captain," an
office that experience had pronounced indispensable, but
was nevertheless little honored; for danger itself, uncredited, because unseen, could not overcome the selfwilled notions and vagrant propensities of the most of
these border inhabitants-self-willed and presumptuous,
because ignorant.
I expected to be so sore as to be scarce able to march
next morning, but was most agreeably surprised to find
myself as supple and fresh as ever. After marching fifteen or twenty miles a day, for five or six days, crossing




IN  THE ARMY.                   43
two or three timbered creeks daily, we arrived at the
Council Grove: it is a beautiful piece of timber, through
which runs the Neosho River, though here, indeed, merely
a fine broad creek, about forty feet wide. Here again,
we were delighted with a change from hot prairies to a
cool and beautiful retreat; where we wandered about
under a lofty dome of verdure, breathing the fragrance
of the luxuriant grape vine, and listening to the songs of
birds; there was nothing to remind us of the ocean of
prairie around, save the pleasures of a delightful contrast.
After leaving the Grove, the vast sameness of the prairies was seldom relieved by a fringe of trees, even on the
creeks.  Cow Creek, though much further on, is an exception, a fine stream, skirted with pleasant forest glades;
it abounded with fish, which, of several pounds weight,
were caught as fast as the line could be handled. And
near here-the era of the expedition-was first heard
the exciting cry of "Buffalo!"  Many pleaded for permission to pursue; our few horses, about a dozen, were
in great demand, and several went on foot. We dashed
over the hills, and beheld with a thrill of pleasure, the
first stragglers of these much-talked-of animals; pellmell we charged the huge monsters, and poured in a
brisk fire, which sounded like an opening battle; our
horses were wild with excitement and fright;-the balls
flew at random-the flying animals, frantic with pain and
rage, seemed endued with many lives. One was brought
to bay by whole volleys of shots; his eyeballs glared;
he bore his tufted tail aloft like a black flag; then shaking
his vast head and shaggy mane in impotent defiance, he
sank majestically to the earth, under twenty bleeding
wounds.
The " Cottonwood Fork" (of the Arkansas) is a pretty




44         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
stream, and relieves the eye, wearied with resting on
nought but prairies: its banks are high and rocky. At
the crossing there is a lofty bluff, near the Arkansas
River, which we had now first approached; but making,
as we ascend, a great southern bend, the trail taken in
wet seasons strikes it again eighty miles beyond; in this
distance, we several times approached it for water. We
encamped the night after leaving the Cottonwood on Raccoon Creek, which is the last that we saw; not a tree or
shrub was on its banks, though abounding with the animals
which give it its name: they live on fish. We were thus,
and often after, dependent upon buffalo ordure for fuel.
Next day we passed (we had seen it from afar) an isolated, abrupt, and rocky hill or mound, perhaps 100 feet
high; an extraordinary feature in this region of country;
one that might suggest the idea of Bush's elevated camp
in the "Prairie;" a novel, as remarkable for its absurd
plot, as for the fidelity of its description of scenery and
scenes, which the author had never visited or witnessed.
Prairies are much alike in their main characteristics;
though in the region which we now approached, their
immense extent made them, compared to those of the
Western States, as the broad expanse of ocean, to the
land-locked bays of its margin; and losing the fertility
and the variety of hill and dale, of murmuring streams
and pretty groves, which adorn those lake-like prairies,
these further resemble the ocean in its dreary and unvarying aspect.
We marched about 130 miles, always in view of the
Arkansas (or its adjoining scenery), and in all this distance saw only here and there a tree, immediately on its
banks, and a few others on the frequent flat and grassy
islands, which present to the eye of the hot and weary




IN THE ARMY.                   45
traveller, a most delightful and inviting appearance; not
so deceptive as the mirage, which here, as in Asia, is frequently observed, but as unavailing and tantalizing. The
valley of this upper Arkansas is about a mile wide; the
river flowing generally at the foot of a lofty bluff, winding its course from one to the other side of low, flat,
luxuriant savannas.
More than once, from  the tops of these high sandy
hills, we saw far away, in almost every direction, mile after
mile of prairie, blackened by buffaloes. One morning,
when our march was along the natural meadows by the
river, we passed through them for miles; they opening
in front and closing continually in the rear, preserving a
distance scarcely over three hundred paces. It is known
that when enraged, or when there is the slightest appearance of being cornered, the buffalo rushes blindly forward
at any opposition, as furious as a Malay "running a
muck."  On one occasion, a bull had approached within
two hundred yards without seeing us, until he ascended
the river bank; he stood a moment shaking his head, and
then made a charge at the column.  Several officers
stepped out and fired on him, and two or three dogs
rushed to meet him; but right onward he came, snorting
blood from mouth and nostril at every leap, and with the
speed of a horse and the momentum of a locomotive,
dashed between two wagons, which the frightened oxen
nearly upset; the dogs were at his heels, and soon he
came to bay, and with tail erect, kicked violently for a
moment, and then sank in instant death,-the muscles
retaining the dying rigidity of tension.
About the middle of July, from high hill-tops-the
Pisgah of our pilgrimage-we descried the promised rest
from our far wanderings-the limit of our march-Chou



46         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
teau's Island, on the Mexican border. Weary and athirst,
on the sandy hills, under a scorching sun, we beheld, amid
the waves of the broad river, this beautiful island; its
green carpet of grass and umbrageous groves, inviting us
to the cool shade and pleasant breezes.
CIHAPTER VII.
THE Arkansas River is here the boundary of the United
States and Mexico; it is above 23 degrees west of Washington City. Our orders were to march no farther; and
as a protection to the trade, it was like the establishment
of a ferry to the mid-channel of a river.
Traders had always used mules or horses. Our oxen
were an experiment, and it succeeded admirably; they
even did better when water was very scarce, which is an
important consideration; and it may be mentioned here,
that a pair were sent on some 400 miles further, to Santa
Fe, and maintained their superiority, and that they have
been generally used since.
A few hours after the departure of the trading company, as we enjoyed a quiet rest on a hot afternoon, we
saw  beyond the river a number of horsemen riding
furiously toward our camp. We all flocked out of the
tents, to see, and hear the news, for they were soon recognized as traders. They stated that the caravan had
been attacked, about six miles off, in the sand-hills, by an
innumerable host of Indians; that some of their companions had been killed, and-they had run, of course,
for help. Major R. hesitated not a moment; the word




IN  THE ARMY.                  47
was given, and the tents vanished as if by magic. The
oxen, which were grazing near by, were speedily yoked
to the wagons, and into the river we marched. Then I
deemed myself the most unlucky of men; a day or two
before, while eating my breakfast, with my coffee in a
tin cup-notorious among chemists and campaigners for
keeping it hot-it was upset into my shoe, and on pulling
off the stocking, it so happened that the skin came with
it. Being thus hors du combat, I sought to enter the
combat on a horse, which was allowed; but I was put in
command of the rear guard, to bring up the baggage
train. It grew late, and the wagons were slowly crossed,
for the river unluckily took that particular time to rise
fast, and before all were over, we had to swim it, and by
moonlight. By doubling the teams in succession, some of
the animals could touch and pull, whilst others swam. I
was thus two hours in the river, mounted on a horse, with
my lame foot across his neck. When safely over, I found
that three companies had marched on, and we slowly followed. Awkwardly mounted as I was, I was seized with
an invincible propensity to sleep; and once having mistaken a sand-hillock for the rearmost wagon, and halted,
I took quite a nap before my men discovered the state of
the case. We reached the encampment at l o'clock at
night. All was quiet, and remained so until dawn, when,
at the sound of our bugles, the pickets reported they saw
a number of Indians moving off. On looking around us,
we perceived ourselves and the caravan in the most unfavorable defenceless situation possible-in the area of a
natural amphitheatre of sand-hills, about fifty feet high,
and within gun-shot all around. There was the narrowest
practicable entrance and outlet.
We ascertained that some mounted traders, in spite of




48         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
all remonstrance or command, had ridden on in advance,
and when in. the narrow pass beyond this spot, had been
suddenly beset by about fifty mounted Indians; all fled
and escaped, save one, who, mounted on a mule, was
abandoned by his companions, overtaken, and slain. He
was a Mr. Lamb, the largest capitalist, and owner of the
company. The Indians perhaps equalled the traders in
number; but notwithstanding their extraordinary advantage of ground, dared not attack them when they made
a stand among the wagons; and the latter, all well armed,
were afraid to make a single charge, which would have
scattered their enemies like sheep.
Having buried the poor fellow's body, and killed an
ox for breakfast, we left this sand-hollow, which would
soon have been roasting hot, and advanced through the
defile-of which we took care to occupy the commanding
ground-and proceeded to escort the traders at least one
day's march further.
These " sand-hills" compose a strip of country found
occasionally a few miles off, on the Mexican side of the
river, and where its valley has no abrupt boundary; they
are irregular hillocks of the loosest sand, seemingly
formed by the sport of the wind. There is scarce a sign
of vegetation, and they present an aspect as wild and
desolate, and as little American, as possible.
Emerging from the hills, we found ourselves on the
verge of a vast plain, nearly level, where it seemed
nature had ineffectually struggled to convert a sandy
desert into a prairie. There was a scanty and dwarfish
growth of wiry grass, brown and withered, amid the white
sand. On we marched, under a fiery sun, facing a burning wind. Not a tree, not a shrub, nor the slightest indication of water, could be seen in a view apparently




]N THE ARMY.                   49
illimitable in every direction. Thus we struggled on
until noon, when the panting oxen, with lolling tongues,
seemed incapable of proceeding. A halt was made, and
they were taken from the wagons, but stood motionless.
The wind blew a gale, a true sirocco. We sought every
cover to avoid it. A  messmate-one of those unfortunates who prefer the dark side of a picture, and croak
when a cheerful word of encouragement is needed-gave
vent to his despondency, and sought to engender discontent and fearful apprehensions; he predicted we would
lose our baggage train, if not our lives, in the desert.
Indignant, and without a better answer, perhaps, I undertook to -prophesy, and actually foretold the exact
event, viz.: that, pushing on, within ten miles we would
find water and grass in some hollow, and buffalo too.
After marching about that distance, we came to the
sandy bed of a dry creek, and found in it, not distant
from our course, a pool of water, and an acre or two of
fine grass. On the surface of the water floated thick the
dead bodies of small fish, which the heat of the sun had
that day destroyed.  After encamping we saw a few
buffalo, attracted doubtless by the water; and several
were killed.  Beyond our hopes, all our necessaries were
thus ministered to; it seemed a special providence.
Next morning Major R. determined to march no further into the Mexican territory.  The traders held a
council, and nearly half of them at first determined to
remain likewise, and spend the summer with us. To
combat this pusillanimous resolution we took the utmost
pains; it seemed that we were about to lose our time and
property, and be disgraced, and not themselves. They
were finally talked and shamed out of it.
The sirocco still continuing, by enveloping a tin bucket
5




50         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
with cotton cloths kept well wetted, we converted a hot
and disgusting fluid into " ice-water;" and with the further comforts of a buffalo hump and marrow bone, we
passed a pleasant day in the little oasis, and the sufferings of yesterday were forgotten. Fortunate constitution
of the mind —happy life, where pain but gives a greater
zest to the fleeting pleasure!
At the first light next day, we were in motion to return
to the river and the American line, and no further adventure befell us, save a night alarm, occasioned by a
sentinel firing at a noble setter dog, which luckily he did
not hit; the men turned out and took their places with
the quiet precision of veterans, as they were.
The vicinity of Chouteau's Island is further remarkable
for a timbered bottom, which stands opposite its foot on
the American side. We had seen none other after leaving
Council Grove, 300 miles back, although now and then
we had passed pleasant open groves on the river bank.
The battalion encamped immediately on the river opposite
the island, a few hundred yards above the timber.
While here, the terms of service of four men expired,
and they were discharged; and, contrary to all advice,
determined to return to Missouri. After marching several
hundred miles over a prairie country, and often on high
hills, commanding a vast prospect, without seeing a human
being, or a sign of one, and, save the trail we followed,
not the slightest indication that the country had ever
been visited by man, it was exceedingly difficult to credit
that lurking foes were generally around us, and spying
our motions. It was so with these men; and being armed,
they set out, on the first of August, on foot, for the settlements.  That same night, three of the four returned.
They reported that, after walking about fifteen miles, they




IN THE ARMY.                   51
were surrounded by thirty mounted Indians.  A wary
old soldier of their number succeeded in extricating them
before any hostile act had been committed; but one -of
them, perhaps highly elated and pleased at their forbearance, or led by some blind fatality, insisted on returning
among them to give them tobacco and shake hands. In
this friendly act he was shot down. The Indians stripped
him in an incredibly short time, and as quickly dispersed
to avoid a shot; and the old soldier, after cautioning the
others to reserve their fire, did fire among them, and probably with some effect. Had the others done the same,
the Indians would have rushed upon them before they
could have reloaded. They managed to make good their
retreat in safety to our camp.
On the 2d, Captain W., myself, and fifty men, were
ordered to take a guide and proceed to search for and
bury the body. We marched about fifteen miles; our guide
became bewildered, led us several miles from the river, and
could not find the body. We were then suffering much for
water, Dr. N. particularly, who vomited frequently, and
seemed to think he could neither stand, walk, nor ride.
Our course was then directed to the river. So great was
the suffering, and the eagerness to reach water, that the
party became strung out, according to their strength, in
quite a sauve qui peut style.  The river water was very
muddy and very warm; the Doctor could not drink-his
stomach would not bear it; but he threw himself in, and
lay a long while, to relieve nature by absorption. We got
to camp from our unsuccessful expedition about ten o'clock
at night, as weary a set of fellows as ever marched.
August 3, 1829. This morning a large party were sent
out, with the same object, under Lieutenant I., who took
other guides. The battalion was encamped in the order




52         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
of the Regulations, with the rear on the river opposite
Chouteau's Island; the prairie hills skirted the river for
miles, at a distance of about 500 yards; along its banks,
above, were trees enough nearly to conceal the prairies
beyond. I was officer of the guard of forty men, stationed
about 150 paces in front. About 2 o'clock, when all the
cattle and our few horses were grazing about a mile off
above, under a charge of five men, an alarm of great
uproar and yelling was suddenly heard. I and my guard
sprang into ranks, and looking to the left, saw the cattle
rushing towards the camp, followed by between 400 and
500 mounted Indians, who, decked in paint and feathers,
uttering horrid yells, brandishing spears, and firing guns,
and riding at full speed, seemed about to make an intrepid
charge. At the first instant I conceived I was entering
into a very doubtful battle, and reviewed in thought all
the actions of my life; in the next, seeing that the "light"
company (armed with a kind of rifle, unloaded) was
ordered to advance, to oppose the first onset of the
enemy, I reflected that they might easily be cut to pieces,
and that the cattle-guard, too, were exposed to instant
destruction, and I asked for permission to advance with
my command, with loaded muskets; it was granted, and
I set off in double quick time to meet the Indians, and endeavor to avert these calamities. As we were about to
meet the foremost, they branched off, firing on us as they
ran, which, in view of the main body, I scarcely noticed,
but kept steadily on, until I found they were all playing
the same game; and the whole opened out at a respectful
distance, like buffalo, and fled, or charged far clear of
my flanks, except a body of them which seemed stationary,
more than a half mile in advance.  The company to my
left had met the cattle-guard, and they were saved, with




IN  THE ARMY.                  53
the exception of one man, who had received eleven wounds.
I looked back, and saw the camp surrounded, at a respectful
distance, by the Indians, all in rapid motion, a part still
in pursuit of a body of cattle, rushing along the sandbars and island, and heard two companies, formed in rear
of the camp, firing at them regularly by platoon. I then
marched round towards the front of the camp, which was
wholly exposed; the 6-pounder, as we passed, threw a
round shot over our heads, and I saw it strike just in the
midst of the body of the enemy which remained above,
perhaps a mile from the piece; it made a great commotion amongst them. The piece was then directed against
the enemy galloping four or five hundred yards off, along
the hill-side in front; the grape-shot struck like hail
among them, but seemed to hit but one. I then saw a
company advancing in pursuit far beyond the right flank,
and a bugle-signal, "double-quick," was sounded from
the camp; but of course they could not overtake a
mounted enemy, but entered the woods to their right.
The Indians were now beyond fire, though to be seen in
every direction over the country; but they gradually
drew off, assembled on the hills beyond the river, fired a
volley, gave a general yell, and disappeared.  They
carried off their dead, afterwards ascertained to be nine
in number.  Our loss was one man mortally wounded,
and fifty oxen and twelve horses killed or driven off.
On my first advance I saw an Indian handsomely
mounted on- a gray horse, gaudily ornamented with
feathers, conspicuous for his rapid action and loud commands. A corporal on the right of my detachment was
so much struck with him, that, unobserved, he came to
a halt, and took a deliberate shot, but, I believe, came
much nearer hitting myself. The Indians who dashed




54         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
by the rear-their left flank exposed to a sharp fireextended themselves along the right sides of their horses,
hanging by the left foot and arm; this last, with a bull'shide shield attached, passed around the horse's neck,
from beneath which they rapidly discharged their arrows
-the shield covering arm, horse's neck, the head, and
right arm below! Excited as they were, they seemed
the best of horsemen; and rushed up and down places
which few persons in cool blood would think of attempting. A number of horses and cattle were killed. An
Indian horse was at one time in our possession; but a gun,
bow, quiver, and shield remained the only trophies of a
doubtful victory.
We now felt some little uneasiness for our detachment,
though well commanded.  It soon returned, having
heard the cannonading; they were hastened on, but unluckily could not arrive in time to meet the Indians retreating from the right flank.
These Indians, who thus, from education and on principle, avoided our bold opposition, had we wavered or
fled, would have proved the fiercest and most formidable
pursuing enemy perhaps in the world. Their plan seemed
to have been to cut off the. cattle and their guard by a
combined movement of two divisions; the one moving over
the hills on our side of the river, the other hidden by
trees, from beyond the river, to meet the first. It was
in a great measure disconcerted.by the first party making
its appearance too soon; but it was still a surprise.
Late that night, I received a report from the rear that
the Indians were gathered close by for a rush upon the
camp; a sergeant was ready to swear to it, as he had
distinctly heard hundreds of horses crossing the river to
the island, which was near by, and the water very shallow.




IN-THE ARMY;                   55
I instantly proceeded to the spot with a platoon: whilst
patrolling up and down through the high, rank grass,
leading the men, with a pistol in one hand and my sword
in the other, I felt conscious of a want of prudence in
being clothed in white, while all the men had greatcoats,
and expected at each moment to receive an arrow or a
shot;- but no discoveries could be made in a quarter of a
mile along the bank. I then heard myself what I thought
must certainly be the noise of horsemen fording the river,
and the battalion was quietly put under arms; but nothing
happened, and it was afterwards ascertained to be wolves,
which were crossing to the carcasses of horses and cattle
which had been killed. I am certain I could not now distinguish their motion in shallow water from that of horses.
CHAPTER VIII.
AFTER the attack of August 3d, our camps were
formed in an order more suitable to our circumstances:
in a square, open at the corners, a company in a single
row of tents on each side, and across the angles, slightly
masking the flanks of each company, were rows of wagons,
the whole forming a kind of octagon. The cattle, always
yoked, were grazed at a more cautious distance, and at
night were tied to the wagon wheels.
We were instructed to wait here for the return of the
caravan, expected early in October. Our provisions consisted of salt, and half rations of flour (besides a reserve
of fifteen days' full rations), and as to the rest we were
dependent upon hunting. When buffalo became scarce,
or grass bad, we marched to other ground, thus roving
up and down the river for eighty miles. The first thing




56         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
after encamping, we dug and constructed, with flour
barrels, a well in front of each company; water was always found at the depth of from two to four feet, varying
with the corresponding height of the river, but clear and
cool. Next, we would build sod fireplaces; these, with
network platforms of buffalo-hide, for the purpose of
smoking and drying meat, formed a tolerable additional
defence, at least against mounted men.
Hunting was a military duty, done by detail, parties of
fifteen or twenty going out with a wagon. They threw
out three or four hunters, and remained under arms for
the purpose of protecting them, &c. Completely isolated,
and beyond support, or even communication-self-dependent in any emergency that might arise, and in the midst
of many thousands of Indians, whose concentration our
long stay seemed to invite, the utmost vigilance was
maintained. Officer of the guard every fourth night, I
was always awake, and generally in motion the whole
night. Night alarms were frequent; when, all sleeping
in their clothes, we were accustomed to assemble instantly,
and with scarcely a word spoken, take our places in the
grass in front of each face of the camp, where, however
wet, we sometimes lay for hours.  I never failed for
months to sleep in pantaloons and moccasins, with pistols,
and a loose woollen coat for pillow; my sword stuck in
the ground in the mouth of the tent, with my cap upon
the hilt; and although I have often slept undisturbed at
the firing of a cannon thirty paces off, here, always after
the firing of a musket, if 500 yards off, in less than ten
seconds I was out and prepared to perform my duty.
August 11th.  We were encamped in our new order, a
few miles below Chouteau's Island. An alarm was given,
and we were under arms for an hour until daylight.




IN THE ARMY.                   57
During the morning, Indians were to be seen a mile or
two off, leading their horses through the hollows. Captain P., however, with eighteen men, a wagon and team,
was sent across the river after buffalo, which we saw half
a mile distant. In his absence, a large body of Indians
came galloping down the river, as if to charge the camp;
the cattle were secured in good time. Captain W., with
his company, of which I was Lieutenant, was ordered to
cross the river and support Captain P. We waded in
some disorder through the quicksands and currents, and
just as we neared a dry sandbar in the middle, a volley
was fired at us by a squad of Indians, who that moment
rode to the water's edge. The balls whistled very near,
but without damage; I felt an involuntary twitch of the
neck, and cried out with a great laugh, "Did you see
that Wick? I dodged, by -." Wishing to return the
compliment instantly before they fled, I stooped down,
and the company fired over my head; with what execution was not perceived, as the Indians immediately retired
out of our view. This had passed in half a minute, and
we were then astonished to see, a little above, among some
bushes on the same bar, the party we had been sent to
support; and we heard they had abandoned one of the
hunters, who had been killed. We then saw above, on the
bank we had left, a formidable-looking body of the enemy
in close order; and hoping to surprise them, we ascended
the bed of the river: in.crossing the channel we were up
to the arm-pits, but when we emerged on the bank, we
found that the Indians had detected the movement, and
retreated. We then rested on our arms, and observed
the fire of cannister from a six-pounder nearer camp,
upon Indians who were galloping by, beyond musket
range; one was shot down,-when instantly, two others




58        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
stopped, remounted him, and rode off, sustaining him on
either side. Casting our eyes beyond the river, I saw a
number of the Indians riding on both sides of the wagon
and team, which Capt. P. had deserted, urging the animals rapidly towards the hills. I counted the Indians on
that side, and there were but eighteen. At this time
Captain W. received an order, through the Adjutant, to
cross and recover the body of the slain hunter. On
reaching the ground, we found it within the distance, as
we were told, from whence the party, by order of Captain
P., had made their precipitate retreat, although the cries
of the poor fellow had been repeatedly heard, that they
should not desert him. He was an old soldier, and a
favorite,-bugler K. He was brought in, with an arrow
still transfixing his huge chest; the scalp was gone.
We were then surprised to see the wagon and team at
a distance, and no enemy near; and on approaching,
were astonished at finding the oxen unwounded. I then
begged, but was refused, the independent command of a
platoon, with which I wished to try some experiments
with the Indians, who were still in sight above, and near
a cover which might have concealed my approach. I was
stung by the contempt which these well-mounted savages
showed for our powerlessness, on foot, to avenge the disgrace which they had inflicted on us; and to descend too,
at such a moment, to the guard of butchers and a meat
wagon, —for a buffalo had been unluckily killed there,was a bitter pill.
And now a storm approached; and angry clouds settled heavily amid the shades of evening, while portentous
columns of smoke rolled up, far and near-the answered
signals to unseen foes; and on the high hills, motionless
horsemen were revealed like spectres against the sky, by




IN  THE ARMY.                  09
the glare of lightning; a stricken corpse lay in our midst.
Nature's gloom, with all its wildness, was infused into the
spirits of our little band; for fearful whispers of a sacrifice passed like a panic to men in groups; a voice for the
vengeance of blood seemed moaning in the winds.
And then, with darkness so dense as seemed to hush
the very winds to silence, came a falling flood, the roar
of whose approach appalled our shaken hearts.
August 12th. The brilliant sun of a serene morning,
followed this awful night, and cheered somewhat our
wretched plight in a flooded camp. More calm at noon,
all fell in the silent ranks for the solemn duty of consigning, with all honor, our fallen brother soldier to his last
wilderness home; a week before, the beautiful but mournful notes of the dead march, had-first in all timepealed on this desert air; and now again, but far more
gloomily, was heard this martial requiem.
It was a humiliating condition to be surrounded by
these rascally Indians, who, by means of their horses,
could tantalize us with the hopes of battle, and elude our
efforts; who could annoy us by preventing all individual
excursions for hunting, &c., and who could insult us with
impunity. Much did we regret that we were not mounted
too; and I believe nearly all prayed that the enemy would
become bolder, and enliven us with frequent attacks; but
this was their last, though they were frequently seen hovering around; and the running of buffalo was a sign of their
vicinity, frequently observed on our hunts. It is known
that they crawl to the tops of commanding hills, and
using the head and skin of a wolf as a mask, spy out the
motions of an enemy, with little or no risk of discovery;
but despising us-wholly on the defensive-they now
took not this trouble, but appeared openly on the hills.




60         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
We learned afterwards, through Mexican traders, that
our motions had been watched the whole route from
Council Grove; whilst we, concluding from appearances,
scarcely conceived that a human being could be within
hundreds of miles of us. The spies who had watched us
reported our coming in great force, and with white buffalo.
It would seem that these Indians had never seen the ox
before.  We saw a singular proof of the ignorant interest
with which they regarded this animal, a few days after
the action of Chouteau's Island. One of the oxen that
had fallen into their hands somehow escaped, and appeared
on the river bank, opposite to our camp, making its way
to water. It was secured, and I was sent across to search
for others in the country around. After going some
miles, we found carcasses among the sand-hills, with all
the white spots carefully cut out from the rest of the hide.
T.lese pieces of white were doubtless taken away by the
Indians as trophies.
Unfortunately, but few books had been providedShakspeare, a copy of the old Regulations, and but one
or two others; all of which I read regularly through, and
the first-named more than once. Hunting, except by
detachment, was dangerous, and forbidden; but occasionally an antelope or a deer was killed.  Of that singular animal-the antelope-we saw great numbers; and
in the fall, once or twice, many hundreds in a gang, which,
all of one accord, would dash hither and thither with
wonderful swiftness, looking at a distance, like the shadow
of a moving cloud. There was a remarkable species of
hare, near twice the size of the Eastern; the fleetest of
the prairie animals, though in very tall grass they were
easily caught. I had a nearly tame one, which fed on
rushes, which would disappear in its mouth as if pushed




IN THE ARMY.                    61
through a hole.  Badgers were common; and prairie
foxes of light and elegant proportions. We met with
many prairie dog "villages;" whole acres of their burrows, with entrances in a small mound; the animal more
resembles a ground-squirrel than a dog; being of the
same color, and not more than thrice the size. They are
very shy, and quick as light in their motions; they come
to the mouths of their holes, and bark at intruders; it is
a bark, in manner of utterance, but of a treble intonation, more resembling that of a bird than of a dog.  Of
wolves, there were thousands, of all kinds and sizes, except the large black wood wolf; never an hour of a night
passed without the accompaniment of their howls, even by
day they were to be seen around. One dark night, being
officer of the guard, I advanced some two hundred paces to
a spot where there was an excavation and a small mound
of earth, and where garbage had been thrown; from the
mound, I saw perhaps a dozen snarling over their unclean
food; sword in hand, I sprang down among them; they
scattered, but I did not stay long to see how far. Rattlosnakes were very numerous, and dangerous; we lost
several horses by their bites. Wild horses we saw frequently, but not many. A horse which we lost August
3d, was recovered from a gang a month or two afterwards.
We only saw elk once, about two hundred together.
Buffalo, wolves, rattlesnakes, and grasshoppers, seemed
to fill up the country.
But to return to our occupations. We fished a little,
hunted, and read a very little; and the only alternative
seemed the manufacture of buffalo powder-horns.  Hundreds were made in the camp, and some very beautiful;
the horn is quite black, and receives a fine polish, and
being exceedingly thick, admits of much carving; with
6




62         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
the laborious and patient care of Chinese, some were
carved and inlaid with bone; but many other articles
were made-spoons, combs, cups, buttons, wine-glasses,
&c.; some very pretty pocket-combs, with white handles,
were made by one of the men.
CHAPTER IX.
BUT little occupied,-so limited in books and amusements,-the time passed heavily enough; but happily our
little society,-there were just a dozen of us,-was harmonious and cheerful.  We were accustomed, in the fine
summer nights, to form a little circle,-lying in easy attitudes upon the grass,-and thus to hold communion of
thoughts and speculations upon the past and future.
Gazing like Chaldeans, on the stars, our imaginings and
discourses were ever of the distant and unseen. The
telling of stories was, of course, a favorite resource. Here
is one which I wrote out with some of the reporter's
accustomed license; although from a youthful source, its
accurate descriptions of Rocky Mountain scenery, as well
as some Indian traits, induce me to record it.
SHA-WAH-NOW.
Late in the afternoon of a spring day, and many years
ago, a solitary Indian might have been seen toiling at the
dangerous ascent of one of the Rocky Mountains.  He
followed the deep-worn chasm of the mountain torrent,
where often the flood of waters bore in awful confusion,




IN  THE ARMY.                   63
earth, rocks, and trees. Now, with the nerve of a chamois hunter, he cleared a fearful space: a moment's contemplation of the void below, bounded by the naked jutting rocks, must have disturbed the brain of the most
hardy.  And now, he traces the projecting ledge of the
mountain precipice ('twas never meant for a path); below
him is death; a look must cost his life; above him vertical granite; not a vine nor twig to help him to life; his
fingers grow to the rocks! his eagle gaze, if a moment
averted, were dimmed; that step may save him! it is
made; he is safe!
Sha-wah-now was safe; the last difficulty was behind
him, and he stood upon the mountain's brow. Brave was
he, and distinguished for success in war; his person bore
about it the aegis of dignity, which commanded the respect of the men, and the fond attachment of the women,
of his tribe.  He was dressed in skins of the purest
white; his bust was bare, but for a furred robe which was
folded beneath his shoulder, leaving his right arm freed
for action. He wore at his back a bow and well-stored
quiver, and in his belt was a tomahawk.
He leaned his lofty form against a rock, and contemplated the dangers he had passed-the valley below and
the mountains beyond, with mingled feelings of simple
devotion to the Great Spirit, and admiration at a view
where beauty and sublimity were mingled in the happiest
proportions.  The sun in mid-heaven is but a tame
spectacle; his effect, though dazzling, is simple; there he
is something alike beyond our ken and thoughts, merely
useful. But when he approaches, as it were, our earth in
setting-is surrounded by the horizon's mist-it is then
that he is the glorious father of a thousand beauties; a
hemisphere blushes red as roses; a mountain structure of




64         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
calm and motionless clouds, seems a palace of fancy
adorned with every heaven-born hue. It was such a sun
that shed its divine influence over that valley.  The
ground swelled into slight undulations; a stream wound
its way in the midst; its banks were dotted with trees;
all was rejoicing in the influence of spring; all was covered
with the most delicate hues of green. The soft light of
the sun's lingering rays fell upon some spots only to contrast the richer shade, and the surface of that valley appeared as fair, as soft, as a maiden's cheek; and its contemplation filled, for a moment, as large and tender a
spot in the heart of the Indian, as did the thoughts of his
beloved, his beautiful-the lost Ayeta.
And Sha-wah-now mused on, and to his excited mind
came swelling tumultuous thoughts. Untaught by man
and his vain books, he had drank deep of the inspiration
of Nature in her majestic solitudes. Amid mountain
stbrms he had ever rioted with wild joy. Amid the warring elements his spirit had ever sought fellowship of its
own creations; and then the pent-up broodings of his
heart had fierce and loud utterance. His aspirations were
wild, and turned on a nation's wrongs and their revenge:
" Oh! that I could clothe myself with the wings of the
northern blast, and sweep with desolation the oppressor's
race."
And Sha-wah-now mused on, and perhaps grasped
with intuitive perception the dim future of ages. He saw
in mountain and valley, fresh from the hand of the
Creator, the rise of a pastoral race, and beheld its glad
youth delighting in the health and innocence of athletic
games, whilst afar the generous earth smiled, o'er all the
boundless plains, with the green promise, or the golden
fruit of the husbandman's noble toil-the "Father of




IN  THE ARMY.                   65
Waters"-master of old, turbid and fearful-was now
the humble slave of man, subdued by a kindred power,
his offspring, kindled by the fire genius' spark set on.
His ever-heaving bosom now seemed whelmed by a world's
supply, commanding the undreamt perfections of slavish
art. His Mentor, the genius of the valleys, pointed to
this fair picture with a smile of godlike youth.
His aspect changed, and lo! there stood a graybeard
stern! He waved his arm-another hundred years rolled
by.
Sha-wah-now saw now a new world grown old.  Simplicity and innocence had shrunk, or fled, or changed.
No poet now invoked the forgotten goddesses of his art,
nor lover in green solitudes could mingle his sighs with
nature's soothing music. The granary of nations had
become a smoky workshop of myriads of coal-begrimed
men.  He saw numberless dusky clouds that ceiled the
dens of vast hosts, called cities-hotbeds of seething vice
and crime, like foul insect swarms, in burnt earth and
iron cells; promiscuous they lived, but under slavish rule,
finding in crowd-created and encouraged pleasures, sensual and oblivious, sole refuge from despair.
Sha-wah-now long and intensely gazed.  He saw no
red man's face. But ere the simple question which his
look betrayed, the demon mocked him, and was seen no
more.
The chief aroused him from this horrid dream, and
sought the calm of communion with nature.
The sun was now gone; but oh! how far on every side
were mountains, some of majestic naked rock, some softly
clothed with evergreens, clearly revealed in a flood of
yellow light, or sharply outlined, to the earth's very
border, it seemed, against a sky of purest air.
6



66         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
The solemn twilight was settling fast in the deep valleys; the last rays of the sun were reflected from some
distant snows, which, like hope to the dying, rose over
the deathlike gloom below, pointing toward heaven.
The universe, it seemed, was a solitude, where silence
profound awaited a new creative voice.
And now, to those faded snows, the new moon and
evening star began to beam, like an answering sign; and
now, too, a sound of praise was heard in a gentle breeze,
which stirred the mountain firs, as with a spirit anthem.
Sha-wah-now was softened into prayer.
Yes, the Indian prays!-prays in these sublime solitudes, where he feels the Great Spirit very near!
Sha-wah-now thanked aloud the great Wah-con-dah,
that he was there, firm in soul, and strong in arm, and
asked but guidance in his desperate purpose.
But what was the motive of Sha-wah-now's perilous
journey?
Though fierce and inexorable in war, eloquent and
profound in council, he, like some of the greatest men,
had reluctantly at first, and then with enthusiasm, yielded
to the heart's ascendency.
Ayeta was the daughter of a brother chief. Early had
she been marked as an extraordinary child; one of retiring modesty, and fond of pensive solitude. Her eye
was remarkable, as different from almost all her race; it
was blue, whilst the long lash and brow were of glossy
black. Owing to youth and little exposure (she was the
favorite and pride of her father), her complexion might
have been envied as a clear brunette.  Her mind was
well fitted to so superior a mould. Sha-wah-now had
marked her with a tender interest as early as her twelfth
year. Before her sixteenth, he had wooed and won her




IN THE ARMY.                    67
heart. She admired him for those qualities which made
him the pride of his nation, and which seemed to mark
him as alone worthy to win so great a prize; but more
from hidden sources had sprung that holy sympathy of
love which bound their hearts.
But "the course of true love never did run smooth."
War, relentless war, at once the scourge of love and pride
of lovers, had fallen upon the tribe with unusual severity.
Some of its governless, ambitious, and ever-restless youth
had been unequal to a temptation to steal horses from
their vagrant neighbors, the Chians; reprisals were made;
at length a scalp was taken; the tribe was aroused to
revenge; the warrior put on his red and black paint,.and
struck his battle-axe into the war-post.  Cupid was
frightened from his summer bower; the maidens trembled
for their lovers; but each brave rejoiced in the confusion
-in the storm which each aimed to direct.
But, for Indians, this war had been conducted with extraordinary severity.  In the absence of a very large
party, conducted by Sha-wah-now, the Chians made a
daring irruption, and took many women and childrenand, what was unusual, some warriors-prisoners, with
whom they were now on their retreat.  Returning, and
unsuccessful, he learned the unhappy truth. The nation
had suffered severely; his reputation was at stake; but
his inmost soul confessed, that worse than all, was his
Ayeta a prisoner! Great within him was the conflict of
rage and despair; he retired from all witnesses that might
discover his weakness. He deemed that a curse was on
him; and, entirely alone, spent the night in fasting, and
rude chants and prayers.  He then made a vow to the
great Wah-con-dah that he would not again enter a lodge,
nor commune with his people, until he had avenged their




68         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
honor, and rescued his betrothed from the hands of the
foe; this he would do, or offer himself a sacrifice to the
offended Deity.
Such was Sha-wah-now's desperate errand.  He that
night allowed himself but little rest, for as he approached
the probable vicinity of his enemies, caution and concealment were necessary to that safety through which alone
he could succeed. The next day in the trailed grass he
discovered the fresh sign of a large party, the one, he
was induced to believe, which he sought; ere dusk he had
gained, by untiring exertions, a high point, from which
to make a close survey of the surounding country. After
a long and anxious examination he thought he had detected a slight appearance of smoke rising from a spot
not very distant. But then it was most improbable that
his enemies would thus betray their night-camp.  He
watched the spot until, to his strained eyes, the "sign"
became wholly uncertain, and when nearly in despair of
making so soon the much wished discovery, his keen and
practised ear detected the sound of horses. He no longer
doubted.  He was prepared, mind and body, for every
risk, and commenced his noiseless approach.
Hours were thus spent, but at length the whole truth
was before him. He beheld, in a deep ravine below him,
the camp of his foes, with the bound captives in the
midst. The war-party, elated with success, and tired by
the long and rapid excursion, had ventured, in their
partial concealment, to light fires for better refreshment.
Their dusky forms were extended in sleep around the
dying embers.  The horses were picketed almost in contact:  Though eager for action, he made a deliberate
survey of his enemies, and of the ground, both near and
far as the eye could penetrate, by bright starlight.  His




IN THE ARMY.                    69
plans were formed; but an obstacle to probable success
was presented in the wakefulness of an Indian who sat
near the captives, gnawing at a bone. What must he
do?  Wait till he should sleep? It was absolutely necessary.  It seemed an age. And would not another take
his place and watch?  He knew that although they keep
no sentinels, with all Indians in such camps, some one or
a few are nearly always awake, generally eating. But
at length his feverish anxiety was relieved; the unconsciously tantalizing Indian sank apparently into deep
sleep. Now was his time or never.  He commenced his
stealthy approach, crawling flat on the earth, and was
soon in the midst of those whose highest ambition was
his scalp.  He discovered his Ayeta; she was sunk in
deathlike sleep.  Sha-wah-now touched her form; she
uttered a low murmur; he whispered in her ear, " Be silent
or die." She opened her eyes, and beheld the warning
face of her lover; his finger was on his lips, enjoining
silence.  By an effort of a well-disciplined mind, she
suppressed any audible emotion. He cut the thong which
bound her, and those of the other prisoners, but with the
utmost caution not to arouse them.  He then slowly extricated himself from among his sleeping foes; she as
cautiously followed.  He had cut loose a horse; he
clasped the maiden to his heart, and sprung upon its
back.
The first sounds of its motion, and the alarm was given.
The Chians sprung to their feet. A moment for astonishment, a moment for discovery, and the next, an astounding yell of rage burst from the lips of all.
Some rushed forward on foot with uplifted tomahawks,
others hastily strung their bows, whilst the first cares of
the many were to secure and mount their horses. Favored




70         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
by the obscurity, the arrows flew harmlessly by the fugitives. They could only be arrested by horsemen; and
Sha-wah-now  had chosen one of the best. Doubtful
was the pursuit.  Shame and rage stimulated the pursuers to desperate efforts. Darkness and the winding
valleys favored the flight; but the enemy were widely
dispersed, and all could not mistake the direction, though
many were at fault.  Encouraging shouts occasionally
marked the point that all aimed at. Blut it would not
do; the pursuers dropt off, until, at last, one, who had
outstripped all the rest, was left to his efforts. This
Sha-wah-now soon discovered; and right glad was he that
it was no worse, for his jaded horse had begun to fail
under its double burden. He was fast losing ground, and
something must be done.
Sha-wah-now was one of those whose faculties seem
inspired to the mastery of great emergencies where the
multitude are confounded; and such men are known only
in times of great or general calamity. Thus calm, he
was prepared to meet the danger to which he considered
his precious charge, rather than himself, was exposed.
Practised in strategy as he was, a happy thought was soon
suggested by the circumstances, which he hastened to
execute. He spoke encouragingly to the half senseless
girl; explained his intention; told her to sit firmly, and
to continue to fly; and then easily slipping from the horse,
suffered himself to fall flat upon the ground. As expected,
the change was not noticed by his pursuer, who rapidly
approached straight to the spot.  The bow was strung,
the arrow was notched, and when he was within a few
paces, it whizzed through the air. By the time the horse
had reached the chief, who stood tomahawk in hand, his
reeling foe fell headlong to the earth. He gave a signal




IN  THE ARMY.                   71
yell of triumph, hastily took the scalp, and having
mounted the horse, was soon by the side of Ayeta.
Sha-wah-now now slackened his speed; but continuing
steadily on, corrected his course as landmarks were recognized, with the view of reaching his village by the
nearest route.
Soon after the sun had risen, they suddenly found
themselves in full view of a large and mounted body of
men. The chief was much alarmed at the new jeopardy
in which he saw placed his beloved Ayeta, now well-nigh
exhausted with such unwonted efforts. His first impulse
was a new retreat, the chances of which he endeavored to
scan, by rapid glances at the country around. But he
soon perceived that such was impossible; that he had been
discovered on the instant, and now about a score of them
approached at full speed. But Sha-wah-now's practised
eye had not failed ere they reached him, to penetrate
their true character. They were friends, and of his own
peculiar band. The delighted chief, exulting in his fortune, uttered the loud and swelling cry of triumph, in that
well-known voice which now electrified this band of eighty
devoted braves.
The first greetings over, the chief recounted to his
brave friends, in the loud and rapid tones of eloquence,
the incidents recorded; and announced to them his readiness instantly to lead them to pursuit and certain victory.
His address was received with peals of applause, tinctured with that enthusiasm, with which master-spirits can
never fail on occasion to inspire the multitude. Ayeta
was intrusted to the care and guidance of a friend; and
the chief, without further delay, set forth at a rapid pace,
in the direction whence he came, at the head of the war
party.  The swift motion of fresh horses, and by day



72         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
light, carried them in a short time over the ground which
he passed very slowly, after the pursuit had ceased.
Within two or three miles of the enemy's camp, the troop
came so suddenly upon a footman as to endanger his life
in their bloodthirsty excitement; but he was instantly
recognized. He was one of the captives whom Sha-wahnow had so thoughtfully released from the restraint of
his bonds, and who, in the subsequent confusion, by large
drafts upon that store of cunning, agility, and presence
of mind, which Indians generally possess, had made good
his escape, so far as to reach a neighboring place of concealment; and there he lay perdu, until the enemy had
taken their departure, which they did at daylight, with
some indications of haste, if not confusion. This was a
fortunate rencontre in two respects: for it so happened,
the -fugitive was one of the best guides of the nation, who,
in the spirit of that habit of observation, which was the
foundation of his skill, had watched critically the course
which they took, and remarked those general features of the
country which must necessarily modify it.  He was
mounted by direction of Sha-wah-now, behind one of his
followers, and undertook to lead the party by a near route,
which would intercept the retreat of the Chians.
His judgment was verified by the result; for the sun
had not passed in his course to the meridian, through
many more than that number of degrees which we designate an hour, when, on issuing from the defile of two
abrupt hills, upon one of those high level" table land"
prairies, the enemy were exposed to view. The leader,
by a powerful effort, suppressed a yell which was incipient
in so many open throats, and led them at a sweeping, but
little noisy gait, a good space-which was all gainedere, owing to these precautions, they were discovered.




IN THE ARMY.                    73
The instant that was ascertained, he ordered a charge,
and set them a powerful example in one of those shrill
outbursts of sound, of which the object, intimidation or
panic, is often attained. It has an awkward effect upon
the nerves, the sudden salute of fierce and quavering
yells, especially when you see its accompaniment of extravagant and threatening action; the flourishing of arms,
the brandishing of spears, and the glaring colors of paint
and feathers.
But the Chians made efforts at organized resistance,
honorable under the circumstances-of surprise, and the
furious onset of rather superior numbers; and their
leaders too, were absent. Its only result was the loss,
upon the spot, of some of their bravest men. A superstitious anticipation of misfortune (to which Indians are
subject), seemed to have taken hold upon their minds from
the moment of their disaster in the night. The natural
result was a panic, which soon led to a flight of desperate
disorder.  The scene which ensued, the East can never
witness; and its stirring interest, the regular shock of
embattled thousands can scarcely equal. A race, a fox
chase, an ordinary battle, are but in comparative progression toward the intensity of excitement, which the sight
and sounds of that flight and pursuit inspired! And it
was witnessed by two spectators, under peculiarly painful
circumstances.  The Chians had been led by two " partisans," who, at the moment of the surprise, were separated from their command, together on a hill, for the
purpose of reconnoitring. For a few of those moments,
big with results, they seemed paralyzed by their misfortune; but quickly recovering, their minds were intensely
wrought upon to decide upon the alternatives-death or
dishonor.  They decided differently.  The one, with a
7




74         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
devotion unsurpassed in ancient or modern times, rushed
onward to certain death.  He charged furiously into the
midst of his foes, and all alone, bravely fought and fell!
His enemies, full of admiration, spared his scalp!
The Chians, on the verge of the prairie, found themselves rushing down the descent of what seemed a valley,
and congratulated themselves with the hopes which uneven ground inspired; but their cruel fates had decreed
them  unlimited misfortune.  The valley soon fearfully
narrowed, and finally ended in a ravine or immense gully,
at the bottom of which was a stagnant pool; into this
the wretched fugitives were precipitated by an impetus
which was irresistible, and all found their death. Their
other leader, the only survivor, returned in safety to his
tribe, and was suffered, by a species of cruel mercy, to live,
thenceforth, the life of a despised and miserable outcast.
Sha-wah-now entered his village in an imposing procession of triumph; in which, after the liberated prisoners,
all of whom he had safely rescued, the most imposing
spectacle was seventy reeking scalps, borne aloft on
spears, the bearers of which chanted triumphal songs.
But were not his thoughts busy with the humble Ayeta?
Her safety he esteemed the happiest fortune of that
eventful day. The grateful and devoted maiden thenceforth graced his lodge.
Sha-wah-now had performed deeds that day, that could
add lustre to even his name; and long he lived, ever sustaining his reputation and unrivalled influence. But at
the festival, he ever recounted the rescue of his cherished
Ayeta, as his greatest action.
It is recorded, with the subsequent victory, upon a
buffalo robe, in rude hieroglyphics, which were explained
to me by an old chief, as a proud record of his tribe.




IN  THE ARMY.                   75
This romantic story did not escape some good-natured
ridicule, in which the words " love-sick" and " unnatural,"
did not fail to be heard. After some discussion, Phil.
assured the critics that all the circumstances of the battle
and massacre were true and accurate: and this advantage
gained, he began a serious argument to prove the hightoned, intelligent, and even romantic character often exhibited by the better Indian,-when suddenly he bethought
him, rather to demand of one of the critics, a story of
his own; when D., a little to his surprise, promised to
comply, so far as to give us, some other time, an account
of some incidents which had really happened to a Punca
woman.
CHAPTER X.
THE next evening, accordingly, we were all assembled
on the grass in expectation of the story, when D., after
a little rallying, delivered himself as follows:
MAH-ZA-PA-MEE.
The Punca Indians are a reduced band; their warriors
amount to no more than one hundred and fifty.  They
are invariably friendly to whites; and are noted for
bravery and swiftness of foot.  Their village is at the
mouth of the L'eau-qui-court, on the Missouri, a thousand
miles from the spot where that river mingles with the
Mississippi. In the spring of'14, a calumet party of
about twenty Grand Pawnees paid them a visit in their
villages; the two tribes being on as good terms as Indians




76         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
ever are. These are called by us, begging parties; but
with a desire always to make the best of human nature, I
would ascribe to them less degrading motives; for though
custom decrees that presents be made on such occasions,
all in turn give and receive. The visitors were " smoked"
as usual; feasted on fat dogs; and then they sang,
danced, and " counted their coups." What a simple but
powerful incentive to virtue (Indian virtue), is this custom!
and how innocently is ambition thus sated! The time is
night; brilliant fires burn around; the stately chiefs are
seated with all the cross-legged dignity of Turkish Pachas;
the animating music of the song peals forth; the exhilarated braves dance with emulous ardor and activity;-for
a moment they cease;-one of them  recounts a coup,
deposits some article of small value, and tells the actor
in a greater feat, to take it as his own. The dance is renewed with increased animation, till at length another
relates his superior adventure;-his form seems to swell,
his eye glistens with delight, as he removes the prize and
lays it at the feet of the chief. Long they continue, but
with endless variety; until finally the chief distributes
the simple honors, and thus adds his sanction to the merit
of the prizes.  Fashion decides that modesty is not wanting in this self-praise; but it also requires and has the
most powerful means to enforce, that the recital be the
strictest truth.  Thus does the red man of our forests
closely imitate the noblest customs of Greece, in the day
of her virtue and renown!
Thus were the visitors treated; but a faithless return
was made for open-handed hospitality.  A young brave
of their number, being very unceremoniously entertained
by the principal chief, Shu-da-gah-ha, and his family,
easily discovered an unfortunate difference; a jealousy




IN THE ARMY.                   77
between his two wives; and, struck with the appearance
of the favorite, Mah-za-pa-mee-for she was a pretty
woman-he determined to improve a temporary advantage, and engage in an intrigue.  His affections, and
ambition too, became engaged in the suit, and he warmly
urged it. His good looks and eloquence combined to persuade her that nothing could equal the Pawnees, and the
delightful life they led: he told her that they killed more
buffaloes, planted more corn and pumpkins, and had
more scalp dances than any other nation; and above all,
they stole more horses too, and their squaws never walked.
How could she resist so happy a picture! She did not:
she consented to fly with him to the promised paradise.
His arrangements were easily made; and the next night,
like Paris, the beau ideal of beaux, he escaped triumphantly with this modern Helena. Mah-za-pa-mee took with
her an infant son; and, guided by her lover, in due time
arrived at the village of the Grand Pawnees, on the Riode-la-plata, Anglice, the Big Platte.
On discovering the flight, the chief was quite outrageous: it was too late for pursuit: they had taken the best
horses; but the sacrifice of the remaining Pawnees, until
then perfectly ignorant of the proceeding, could well
appease his ire; and, though innocent, they had paid
with their lives the forfeit of the indiscretion, but for the
active influence of Manuel Lisa. They were dismissed
without presents, and with dishonor. But Shu-da-gah-ha
had more pride or policy than Menelaus, and war did not
immediately result.
Not long after this affair, a small party of Dahcotahs,
probably to prove the truth of Hobbes' theory of our
nature, by carrying on a war, " whereof the memory of
man runneth not to the contrary," directed their foot



78         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
steps to the village of the Grand Pawnees; and there
prowled about undiscovered, until at length they killed
and scalped a son-in-law of that very distinguished chief
Car-ra-ra-ka-wah-wah-ho, whom the whites called Long
Hair. This was done in darkness, and very near the village. A trail cannot be followed at night; but very early
the next morning, eighty braves were in pursuit as fast
as their chargers would carry them. During the night,
the Sioux had not been idle. An Indian afoot can travel
as far perhaps in twenty-four hours, as another on horseback. The next morning, the sun arose upon them near
fifty miles from the Pawnee village; the Pawnees perceived from their trail, that their enemies were but five
or six in number, which induced them to continue in untiring pursuit for three days. The Sioux, in their flight,
passed by the Punca village, simply because it was in
their nearest direction home. The conscience-stricken
Pawnees had, from the first, suspected them to be Puncas;
but on perceiving that the trail led directly to their village, doubt yielded to certainty in their minds, and they
continued the pursuit-not to attack the Puncas, but in
the hope, if failing to overtake the party, to cut off some
straggler at a respectful distance from the village. Accordingly, when arrived within two miles of it on the
fourth day, they were delighted to discover two young
Punca hunters; they instantly engaged in hot pursuit.
But the ground was much broken, and the young Puncas
were determined that the reputation of their tribe for
swiftness of foot, should not suffer on this occasion; so
they ran like heroes, for their lives were at stake. The
Pawnees did not dream of their escaping; nor did they,
which was more important, perceive how near they were
approaching the village, so warmly were their imagina



IN THE ARMY.                   79
tions engaged with the idea of the two scalps that were
careering before them. But the Puncas did escape, and
soon did they make it known; for never, till then, was
heaven's conclave saluted with such horrid discord. The
braves all yelled like devils; each squaw howled for ten,
and wolf-dogs were ten to their one, and gave distinguished
proof of the power of their lungs. The luckless urchin
that disturbs a nest of hornets, is not more warmly assailed, or sooner put to his heels, than were the panicstruck Pawnees by this nest of fiery Puncas. Those that
could not lay hands on horses, sallied forth scarce the less
swiftly on foot. Away! away, they went! with what a
sublime confusion of sound and motion! a mighty chase,
with life and death upon the issue! On! on they go!
now they dash into that bushy ravine, and how the awful
din is mellowed. But the hill is gained, and they burst
pell-mell into view with that astounding shout! Away!
away! Now, Pawnee, do thy best! Hear that cutting
sound, that shrill war cry! sweet music to the Punca; to
the Pawnee, the jarring signal of his doom. Six times
was heard that well-known yell of Shu-da-gah-ha. He
was avenged. Noble feats of horsemanship were that
day performed by the best of riders; feats which made
one shudder to examine in cold blood. But most of the
horses were run down and abandoned, and Punca and
Pawnee ran on foot. The latter threw away their guns,
and strewed the prairie with cumbrous finery; and to this,
many were indebted for their safety. The Puncas ceased
to pursue at night, more than twenty miles from their village; they had taken eight scalps, and captured many
horses and guns.
Thus we see two tribes fairly in a war, originating in




80         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
the indiscretion of Mah-za-pa-mee, which led to the mistake
which caused the war.
But, to return to our heroine and the Pawnee village.
In due time, the foremost of the scattered messengers of
misfortune arrived: it was in the night. Fortunately,
Mah-za-pa-mee had made a warm friend of an old squaw,
who hastened with the first news of the disaster, to warn
her of her impending danger; for then no one could
doubt the fate that was in store for her; she and her son
would be sacrificed to Pawnee revenge. The old woman
furnished her with moccasins and smoked meat, and she
immediately escaped from the village, alone and on foot;
and she took with her her son.
This was late in June; and she determined "to strike"
for the nearest waters of the L'eau-qui-court, hoping to
meet her band, who usually followed up that river on the
summer buffalo hunt. Her meat was soon gone, and roots
were her sole resource; and she was without any means
of kindling a fire. Thus she journeyed, carrying on her
back her child, now two years old, enduring the scorching heat of the shadeless prairie by day, and chilled by
its cold dews at night. Thus simply are the facts narrated. But who shall paint to the senses the full horror
of her sufferings of mind and body!
She reached the L'eau-qui-court, and found that her
entire tribe had passed many days before. Mah-za-pamee did not despair.  She could not hope to overtake
them; but for days, she searched their trail and camps,
endeavoring to find something left or "cached" that
would serve for food: but all failed. She then resolved
to follow down the river, and, if able, to reach the village;
she would find there green corn and pumpkins, always
planted before the annual hunting migration.  More than




IN THE ARMY.                   81
a hundred miles were before her, starved and burdened as
she was, wasted by the extremes of the weather, and ever
assailed by that maddening pest, the musquito. But her
life was prolonged by the small fish which she caught in
shallow streams and pools, and they of course were eaten
raw!
Late in August, Mah-za-pa-mee reached the vicinity of
her village on the Missouri: and she found it-oh! last
stroke of unrelenting fate!-occupied by hostile Indians,
before whom the last vestiges of vegetation were fast disappearing. She hid herself, but yielded to despair.
Mah-za-pa-mee and her son were discovered the next
day by a white man of Mr. Lisa's company. He was of
a small party that had been left in charge of a storehouse, some distance below: provisions having become
scarce, they had ascended the river to see if the Puncas
had returned with a supply of meat. Their appearance
when found, was described as emaciated, wretched, and
even horrible. And, indeed, if there were room for it,
who would not doubt the possibility of their surviving?
Under no other circumstances does poor human nature
show so much its weakness, become so much degraded, as
when assailed by starvation. Famine! nought but thou
canst reduce proud, gifted, noble man, to the level of the
wretched beast.  Thou shakest his reason from  its
pedestal! Thou makest him yield all to revolting appetite! But, no more.-Mah-za-pa-mee, well and hearty,.would probably have terminated an existence then worth
preserving, rather than meet her husband thus humbled,
and a petitioner; but now, suffering worse than deaththe loathsome picture of famine-true to the singular
nature of her species, clinging the more closely to life



82         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
she seeks to offer herself before her injured lord, for a
mouthful of food.
Mah-za-pa-mee at length rejoined her tribe, and sought
to throw herself at the feet of her husband. Pity is allied
to affection; and much was she to be pitied: but chiefly
was she to depend upon her child, that inseparable link of
union, for forgiveness. It was that which succeeded: for
surely the chief, Shu-da-gah-ha, did not believe her, that
the Pawnee threw " squaw medicine" (love powder) on
her; that "he bewitched her."  She was forgiven, grew
apace in flesh and favor, and has since been, as has her
son, healthy and happy.
CHAPTER XI.
ONE day, about the end of August, to our utter astonishment, we saw the approach of a white man, on foot,
and in tattered garments, and so poor he seemed scarce
able to walk.  He was instantly surrounded by a crowd,
and recognized to be Corporal Arter, whom we had left
at Fort Leavenworth. The following is the substance of
his story. He had been sent with another man, about two
months before, well mounted, as an express, with some
order for us from General L. After striking the Arkansas in safety, they were one day suddenly surrounded by
fifteen mounted Indians, armed with bow and spear; they
did not offer immediate violence, and the Corporal succeeded in extricating himself and companion; when the
latter, in good feeling produced by their forbearance, re



IN THE ARMY.                    83
turned, in spite of the Corporal's remonstrance, if not
orders, to give them some tobacco; and while in this act,
was wounded by the thrust of a spear in his breast; the
Indians instantly scattered to avoid a shot from the Corporal, one of them dropping his bull-hide shield; and the
Corporal, at the expense of horses and baggage, rescued the
wounded man, and judiciously reserving his fire, stood over
him, keeping the Indians off for several hours, and receiving a slight arrow wound in his wrist; they seemed particularly anxious to recover the shield, which he gallantly
defended.  After the Indians were gone, Arter helped
the wounded man to the river, and constructed a rough
shelter for him.  He had lost his ammunition, and was
compelled to sustain life by eating a part of a diseased
ox we had left, and snakes, frogs, &c. Soon after his
adventure, he left the wounded man, Nation, as well provided for as possible, and followed our trail to the point
of our crossing the river, and then gave it up for a time
as hopeless, and returned to his charge. Afterwards he
had heard, he thought, the sound of cannon, and soon
after made this successful effort to find us. A command,
with an ox-cart, was immediately sent after Nation; they
found him twelve or fifteen miles below, and brought him
to camp that night; but the poor fellow lingered some
weeks, and then died.
The 10th of October had been named by the traders,
and agreed to by the commanding officer, as the very last
day of our stay waiting for them. The time approached
-the weather was growing cold.  We had frosty mornings, and the summer clothing of the men was nearly worn
out. The 10th came, and no caravan; it was determined
to wait one day longer; and accordingly, having waited




84         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
during the 11th, the next morning, at sunrise, one gun
was fired, and we turned our faces homewards.
About 9 o'clock horsemen were seen following us at full
speed; the battalion was halted, and disposed for action,
covering the baggage. As they approached in view of
this preparation they drew rein, and the commanding
officer and his staff advanced to parley, but soon discovered that they were white traders; the caravan was a
few miles beyond the river: our cannon shot had been
heard, and these men sent on to overtake us. We proceeded to the nearest fit camping ground, and established
our camp. We learned that the caravan was accompanied
by an escort of a company of regulars, and a body of
Mexican militia, or Indians. Major R. had written to
the chief of the province of Santa Fe, requesting this cooperation in the protection of a trade beneficial to both
countries; and Colonel Viscarro, Inspector-General of
the Mexican army, happening to be there, had volunteered to conduct a command accordingly.
A day or two before, they had been visited by several
hundreds of Ar-ra-pa-hoes and Camanches (our old
friends), who were on foot, and seemed to be on a horsestealing expedition. They pretended friendship, as the
best way, doubtless, of effecting their purposes. A guarded
intercourse took place, and Col. V. was warned by some of
his Indians, and the traders, not to trust them: at last, as
Col. V. was talking to their chief, the latter, being a few
feet off, presented his gun and fired. One of the Colonel's
Indians, who had been most suspicious, and stood by
watching, with heroic devotion, sprang between, just in
time to receive the ball through his own heart. He had
a brother near by, who, as the Indian chief turned to fly,
sprang upon him like a tiger, and buried his knife to the




IN  THE ARMY.                   85
hilt in his back. Almost at the same instant another
chief fell, by a shot from a trader, who had marked him
in anticipation of the result. The Indians fled, and many
of the Mexican militia and the traders pursued them on
horseback.  The ammunition of the Indians soon gave
out, and their pursuers would overtake them in succession,
dismount, fire, take the scalp-without being particular
whether the man was dead or not-reload, and pursue
again; several of the traders were mentioned as having
killed three or four in this manner-like turkey shooting
-and perhaps nothing but nightfall saved the whole
party from destruction. It was not ascertained that the
Mexican regulars shed any blood on the occasion; but on
the other hand, we were assured that the cruelty and
barbarity of some of the Americans disgusted even the
Mexicans and Spaniards; that they scalped one Indian
at least, who had life enough left to contend against it,
though without arms; and they undoubtedly took the
skin from some of the bodies, and stretched it on their
wagons.  I, myself, saw several scalps dangling as ornaments to the bridle of a trader.
Several of our officers returned with a trader to conduct the caravan to our camp; they arrived in the course
of the day, and encamped near by. That evening Captain W. invited Colonel Viscarro, Captain Obrazo, and
another gentleman, secretary, and since Governor of
Sante Fe, with whom he became acquainted before they
arrived, to sup at our tent. I distinctly remember the
feast we gave them. Seated cross-legged around a green
blanket in the bottom of the tent; we partook of bread,
buffalo meat, and, as an extraordinary rarity, some salt
pork; but to crown all, were several large raw onions,
for which we were indebted to the arrival of our guests;
8




86         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
a tin cup of whiskey, which, like the pork, had been reserved for an unusual occasion, was passed round,followed
by another of water.
Col. V. was a man of fine appearance, and of perfectly
dignified and gentlemanly manners. His horsemanship
-extraordinary for a Spaniard-had been witnessed that
day by Captain W.: an immense drove of horses, &c.,
which they brought, was frightened, and disposed to run;
he rode at full speed to prevent it, and seemed in many
places at once; stopping his horse, with the aid of the
unmerciful Spanish bit, in full career, more suddenly
than if shot, and throwing him on his haunches, he would
whirl him around, and cause him to plant the fore foot,
with equal speed, in an opposite direction. On the march
he had pursued a noble wild horse, which baffled all
others, and both being at utmost speed, had thrown his
lazo, for a fore foot, and caught it! Unfortunately the
shock broke the poor animal's leg, when the Colonel drew
an arrow, and shot him through the heart.
The next day we had time to look about us, and admire the strangest collection of men and animals that had
perhaps ever met on a frontier of the United States.
There were a few Creoles-polished gentlemen, magnificently clothed in Spanish costume; a large number of
grave Spaniards, exiled from Mexico, and on their way
to the United States, with much property in stock and
gold-their whole equipage Spanish; there was a company of Mexican Regulars, as they were called, in uniform,-mere apologies for soldiers, or even men; several
tribes of Indians, or Mexicans, much more formidable
as warriors, were grouped about with their horses, and
spears planted in the ground; Frenchmen were there of
course; and our 180 hardy veterans in rags, but well




IN  THE ARMY.                   87
armed and equipped for any service: four or five languages were spoken; but to complete the picture, must
be mentioned the 2000 horses, mules, jacks, which kept
up an incessant braying. The Spaniards and their attendants were in motion, throwing the lazo, catching wild
mules; and others dashed off after buffalo, which seemed
disposed to send representatives to this Congress of the men
and animals of two nations. I remember, too, that some
Camanche dogs came over the hills into camp, from a
direction opposite to that of the march of the Mexicans;
but this strange circumstance was hardly noticed, though
I did hear some one ask, " Where the d-l did those wild
geese come from?" as a pair of them were seen dodging
about.
The battalion was reviewed and drilled for the edification of the Mexican officers; and then a company of light
infantry at the old tactics (which being admirably suitable, and truly American, has been dropped).  Afterwards we visited the Mexican camp, when their motley
force was drawn up: to judge from the appearance of
their arms, &c., a volley from the regular company, at
fifty paces, would have proved of small consideration.
After their dismissal, we fell in with a group who were
singing, and introduced, in some way to their conclusion,
the name of GEORGE WASHINGTON; whereupon one of
them advanced, hat in hand, for a collection. Their officers were much mortified, and kicked him off; while we
considered it laughable to be thus called upon, in consideration that a single piece of money was unknown in
our camp, where the very existence of "a circulating
medium" had been so long useless as to be almost forgotten.
I saw a characteristic exploit of one of the southern




88         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
mongrels-a camp follower.  He rode a blindfolded, unbridled donkey in pursuit of a buffalo, at which he continued to snap an antique firepiece, until it was almost
out of sight.
We all dined, by invitation, with Colonel V. and his
officers; his tent was very large and comfortable, oval
in shape, and quite roomy. We sat down, about sixteen,
to a low table, all the furniture of which was silver; which,
however, we scarcely noticed, in view of their inviting
contents, among which was fried ham.  This course was
followed by another of various kinds of cakes, and delightful chocolate; and there were several kinds of Mexican
wines. All had been brought, no doubt, for the occasion,
direct from Santa Fe.
In the dusk of evening, a large group of the Mexican
Indians came into camp, bearing aloft on spears the
scalps which they had lately taken, and singing Indian
songs; dark figures, with matted hair streaming over
their shoulders, uttering the wild notes of their deep-toned
choruses, they resembled demons rather than men. Suddenly one would enter the circle, and indulge in an extravagrant display of grief, beating his forehead and
breast, and howling like a famished wolf; and then dashing the scalps to the ground, stamp on them, and fire his
gun at them. After this propitiatory lament to the manes
of a departed friend, or relation, he would burst forth,
with the others, into the wildest and most unearthly song
of triumph and exultation.
The Indian who had lost, and avenged his brother, as
related, had been in camp in the day; he was a fine fellow, and seemed inconsolable.  He made us speeches,
unintelligible of course; but expanding his bare chest,
and striking it forcibly with his palm, he would end them
bv exclaiming, "Me die for the Americans."




IN  THE ARMY.                   89
CHAPTER XII.
ON the 14th of October, having relieved the Mexicans
of their charge, we took a very friendly parting, and
again marched early on our return. Soon after, we saw
smokes arise over the distant hills; evidently signals, indicating to different parties of Indians our separation and
march.  Of what purport, whether preparatory to an
attack upon the Mexicans, or ourselves, or rather our immense drove of animals, we could only guess.
The passage over prairies with horses or cattle, while
it is free from all money expense for forage, is attended
with the trouble, risk, and delays of grazing. There is
always danger of horses straying off, being frightened by
accident, or driven by an enemy. To provide against
trouble and danger in our case, with our few cattle, a
plan of camp for the return march was adopted, which
inclosed them in a space large enough for grazing. The
tents of three companies were pitched in single lines
around three sides of a square, the parallel sides of which
were equally extended by two rows of wagons, while the
fourth company, on guard, completed the parallelogram.
For these places of camp, and many other benefits, we
conceived ourselves indebted to our Adjutant, the lamented
J. F. IZARD, who fell gallantly in Florida. As an humble
tribute to the memory of so brave, so talented, so accomplished a soldier, I can truly say, that, on this expedition,
he was never known to fail in the zealous, thorough, and
exemplary performance of any single point, important or
minute, of any duty that could possibly be construed to
be his; besides frequently volunteering to perform  the
8+A




90         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
arduous details of others.  He is gone-but has left us
the bright example of his life and his death.
Unhappy Florida! Thy soil has drunk the heart's
blood of the army!  Thou hast robbed her and the
country of IZARD, and LANE, and BROOKE, and a host
of other brave spirits, whose loss is irreparable.
Our march was constantly attended by immense collections of buffalo, which seemed to have a general muster,
perhaps for migration.  We found them much further
eastward than we had met them.  Sometimes a hundred
or two-a fragment from the immense multitude-would
approach within two or three hundred yards of the column, and threaten a charge, which at best would have
proved disastrous to the mule-drivers and their charge.
Mounted flanking parties of traders were then kept out.
The weather was very cold, and we had generally black
frosts. One day it snowed a little, and seventy mules
were abandoned and left, being overcome by fatigue and
cold. It must not be supposed that the prairie-grass was
now fit for grazing; on the contrary, so dry and rigid
had it become, that it wore the feet of unshod animals
until they bled; and we had to make buffalo-hide shoes,
or rather moccasins, for many of the oxen; but in the
river and creek bottoms, particularly where there was
timber, or where they had been burned early in summer
(which can always be done when they escape the previous
winter), we always found green and tender grazing, sufficient for our wants.
It is surprising in what fine training our campaign had
put us all (to say nothing of our fine health; and, among
the men-unable to commit excesses-not a case of sickness had occurred). One day an immense gray wolf had
the audacity to trot through the lines of wagons, and I




IN THE ARMY.                   91
set off afoot in pursuit, regardless of the laughter of my
companions, who derided the idea of outrunning a wolf.
I nevertheless did overtake him, and brought him to bay,
when he jumped and snapped at me, with a disagreeable
clatter of tusks. I was only armed with a pistol, and
unluckily, owing to a very high wind, it snapped repeatedly, and I left the gentleman to take his course; but, in
returning, I saw a camp-follower take my place, with a
rusty sword, with which he attacked him. The wolf
rushed at him, and received several blows over the head;
when making a motion to turn tail, his antagonist as
gladly seized the opportunity of doing likewise, and they
exhibited the extraordinary and laughable spectacle of
enemies running away from each other with all speed, at
the same moment.
After passing 110-Mile Creek, we marched twenty-five
miles without water, and then found the little branch, on
which we depended, to be dry. A hole, filled with water,
was however discovered six or eight hundred yards to the
left; but for some unaccountable cause we were marched
near two miles further, and encamped where the country
was as dry as tinder; and, in fact, we were threatened
with fire;-a long line of it, extending across the immense
prairie, was gradually approaching. I was ordered, with
some fifty men, to secure the camp, by burning round it,
when a wild fellow, with a blazing brand, ran along firing
so much at once that the matter was like to be made
worse; it rapidly approached in a great sheet of flame
to the ammunition wagon, and would have swept the
camp but for the greatest exertions, to which I set the
example, in the sacrifice of a cloak, and some damage to
whiskers and eyebrows.
To my astonishment, my mess was that night supplied




92         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
with a keg of water, for which two of my men had gone,
unasked, near two miles. But about midnight it commenced raining hard and steadily, and it continued for
eighteen hours; and, but for this, it seemed impossible
that the cattle could have got on; they were few in number, and had suffered much before, and, indeed, the men
were required to assist in pulling the empty wagons for
several days' march. The piece of artillery which had
been pulled out in fine style by six mules, came back
with a yoke of oxen.
The next day we marched twenty-five or thirty miles
through a hard rain; and, bearing off to the left, struck
a bold creek and encamped.
In our long absence from the world, and with so little
occupation for the mind, it seemed that our imaginations
had become disordered, and we had lost the power of
forming a just estimate of the most familiar objects. I
saw a group of officers examining, with seeming admiration, a brass-mounted rifle which they found in the hands
of an Indian hunter; and when the friends of the traders
met them with fresh horses from  the settlements, I
thought them, at a little distance, splendid stallions,
when they were, in reality, work mares, though in fine
order.  Such questions as, "Is the President dead?"
were asked of these men.
The day after the hard march mentioned above, I
walked twelve miles in three hours, without the slightest
fatigue.  We returned by the Agency on the Kansas;
and the log-houses there, were the first habitations of
men we had seen for five months.
Under the friendly cover of the shades of evening, on
the 8th of November, our tatterdemalion veterans marched
into Fort Leavenworth, and took quiet possession of the




IN THE ARMY.                   93
miserable huts and sheds left by the 3d infantry the preceding May.
CHAPTER XIII.
FORT LEAVENWORTH was re-occupied by our battalion;
a " fort" by courtesy, or rather by order; it was in
reality but a straggling cantonment, but on an admirable
site. The Missouri, in an abrupt bend, rushes with wondrous swiftness against a rock-bound shore; from this the
ground rises with a bold sweep to a hundred feet or more,
then sloping gently into a shallow vale, it rises equally
again, and thus are formed a number of hills, which are
to the north connected by a surface but slightly bent, to
which the vale insensibly ascends; every line of every
surface is curved with symmetry and beauty. On these
hill-tops, shaded by forest trees, stands Fort Leavenworth.  On the one hand is to be seen the mighty river,
winding in the distance through majestic forests and by
massive bluffs, stretching away till mellowed to aerial
blue; on the other, rolling prairies, dotted with groves,
and bounded on the west by a bold grassy ridge; this,
inclosing in an elliptical sweep a beautiful amphitheatre,
terminates five miles southward in a knob, leaving between it and the river a view of the prairie lost in a dim
and vague outline.  How feeble are words! how inadequate to give a general idea, much more to paint this
rare scenery, where grandeur is softened by beauty, and
the beautiful enhanced and dignified by a magnificent
outline.
Blessed with an harmonious and congenial though small




94         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
society, the days, the months, flew by. Our duties performed, and studious improvement not neglected, the
pleasures of female society gave the greater zest to diversions and exercises. Often the whole of us, in a party,
would canter for miles through prairie and grove, and
spend the day on the shady banks of a pretty stream;
there, where the world had never made its mark-forgetful of its very existence-we gave our whole hearts to
sylvan sports, to feast and merriment, to happiness. A
week seldom passed without dancing parties, to which
rare beauty and fine music lent their attractions. Sentinels on a distant frontier, ever ready to throw ourselves
in the face of savage enemies, though severed from the
world with its selfish jarring interests, its contentions and
tortuous intrigues, its eternal struggle for dollars, we continued, amid our books and social pleasures, with hunting
and the chase, to pass happy years. We always enjoyed
the contemplation of Nature in her untamed beauty, fresh
as from the hands of the Creator. The greatest danger
of our situation was that lethargy and rust of mind, so
naturally induced where no exciting motive, no necessity,
urges on to the labor of exertion. It is not in human
nature, in such passive circumstances, long to escape their
impression. But some of us strove hard to improve those
faculties which an unhappy world would not always, as
then, suffer to slumber.
But we were not without our visitors from the world,
who sufficiently refreshed our conceptions of its existence
and nature; nor, from the regions of our far West, the
then accomplished officers of the Indian Department, from
agencies between us and the Rocky Mountains, and some
members of the Fur Company, fresh from natural scenes,
and full of racy anecdote of adventure; they were fre



IN  THE ARMY.                   95
quently an enlivening addition to our small society. The
memories of these years come back as in moments of
tranquil enjoyment some happy dream steals on our rapt
senses-a past too kindly for reality-gilded by loving
thought.
In the summer of 1831, wishing to extend my knowledge of the country, and weary of inactivity, I obtained
leave of absence, in order to accompany an officer of the
Indian Department on an official visit to the villages of
the Otto and Omahaw Indians, and the Old Council
Bluff in their vicinity. We took with us a French servant, or engage, named Godfrey, and had a pack-horse,
which carried a tent and provisions. Our route was to
be by the south side of the Missouri.
The first day we rode but a few miles, our hired man
being very drunk, as is usual with these fellows on such
occasions, when their services are most needed.  He fell
from his horse on some tin-cups, and mashed them nearly
flat; and I discovered with some surprise that they could
not be restored to any approximation of their original
shape.  The pack-horse, at the camp-ground, turned his
pack, and succeeded in kicking a small bag of crackers
very nearly to the original state of flour. A good start
is worth a day's journey.
Next day we got along more comfortably. Our course
lay altogether over prairies, but in view generally of the
timber of the river, and always of some small tributary.
This night we encamped on one of the miry creeks, very
difficult to cross, which here abound, indicating a country
as rich as it is beautiful. This was about fifty-six miles
above Fort Leavenworth.
Tuesday, June 14th.  We got over the boggy stream
by 6 o'clock; after riding about twelve miles over rolling




96         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
prairie, we suddenly beheld before us the beautiful valley
of the Grand Nemehaw; far below us stretched out, a
mile and a half in width, the level prairie bottom, studded
with numberless flowers of every brilliant color; the
margin of the river was fringed and relieved by stately
trees; five elks, disturbed by our approach, slowly galloped away along the hillside. But our attention was
withdrawn from this beautiful scene; for, rather suddenly,
half of the heavens were obscured by an immense black
cloud; reaching from the horizon on either side, it culminated dark as night.  All thoughts were turned to
securing ourselves from the storm, and, placing the river
behind us; we hastened on, and fortunately struck its
bank where a large tree had been felled across. Removing our saddles and pack we carried them over; Godfrey
swam his horse across, the others following. We mounted
to seek drier ground, and about half a mile above encamped on a small prairie: we were near the edge of the
bank; along and below it grew scattered trees, enough
to conceal the course of the river, which made a bend
above; the "bluff," or prairie hill opposite us, was half
a mile distant. By the time the tent was pitched and
the horses hobbled, the storm broke over us with an awful
crash of thunder and lightning, which seemed close above
and around us. It rained in showers from midday until
dark-then it wonderfully increased; for hours it fell as
violently as I had ever seen before in storms at the
moment of greatest force.
We remained sitting up in the tent, our provisions, &c.,
raised on the saddles, and covered with blankets; our
candle was put out by the rain about nine o'clock. Near
eleven we determined to lie down, though the ground
was thoroughly soaked, and we were wet to the skin. In




IN  THE ARMY.                  97
about an hour the rain began to fall more steadily and
moderately, and I fell asleep.
About three o'clock I was aroused, and found myself
lying in water. A conviction that we were flooded was
soon forced upon our minds, for the water rapidly increased in depth. The darkness was palpable. We were
overwhelmed with astonishment that the river could in
that time overflow its banks, and attached an importance
to our awful situation which those who must see us alive
and well can never appreciate..Various plans of escape
or safety were now proposed. Godfrey thought we would
have to take a tree, and "live on one of the horses."
Fortunately daylight began to dawn, when we discovered
our horses close by, trembling with fear. The water was
now near knee deep, though not over the grass. I observed a remarkable bank of fog, I thought, along the
foot of the hills. We had to fish for our bridles, &c., at
arm's length in the water. The white fog sensibly approached, and we discovered it was water-the river in a
new channel! Our preparations were hurried-the tent
was left standing-I abandoned a blanket. Mr. B. was
at length mounted, and tried the depth of water in several
directions. I proposed to follow up the margin of the
bank, knowing it was there the shallowest. I mounted
my trembling horse, when he mired, plunged, and seemed
incapable of exertion. I got off, and left him loose to
follow. The water was half-thigh deep; I became much
exhausted, and stopped and pulled off my woollen pantaloons, and threw them over my shoulder; my companions
had stuck to their horses, and were far ahead; I feared
to step over the bank and be swept off. At the bend I
discovered the bluff, three hundred yards off. It was
now quite light; I made for the hill through a swift cur9




98         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
rent above my waist, and at length reaching the new
shore, offered up my thanks.
I threw myself on the ground, and was soon pleased
and surprised to see the approach of our pack-horse,
which Godfrey had left to take care of himself. I
stopped him, and finding a bottle of brandy had been
saved, took a hearty drink.
On the hill-top we made a fire, and unpacked everything to dry. The cries of drowning fawns were heard
the whole forenoon, and many deer swam out in our
neighborhood.  The river had risen now about twenty
feet perpendicular: perhaps four of which, on an average, was over an expanse of two miles. I believe it
had not rained over any part of its course earlier than at
this point.
June 15th. After having dried our clothing, &c., and
recovered the tent, about mid-day, we were mounted, and
rode some ten miles west, endeavoring to " head" a
little stream, emptying into the Nemehaw just below the
camp; which, though now impassable, and three hundred
yards wide, might the morning before have been almost
stepped across. The country presents a uniform succession of prairie hills, jutting out from the more elevated
ridges toward the larger creeks. On arriving at the top
of one of them, we saw some hundred yards distant two
deer. I instantly dismounted, fired my rifle, and one of
them fell dead: it was a doe; its companion, a buck,
stood gazing at us for some minutes, while Godfrey, slowly
dismounting, aimed and fired; it then moved slowly off,
untouched. I was well pleased, admiring the apparent
chivalry of the poor animal, deliberately standing fire
over the body of his unfortunate mate.
June 16th. A few miles took us around the fountain



IN  THE  ARMY.                   99
head of the small stream, and after passing a very high
prairie, the dividing ridge between the two Nemehaws,
and two very boggy branches, at ten o'clock we struck
their main creek, which presented a very formidable
aspect; the bottom, a half-mile wide, was flooded, two
feet deep; we rode through to its bank, and found it evidently impassable, there being no timber-retraced our
steps, went on a half mile, waded again to its bank, felled
a tree across, led in a horse, which, swimming to the opposite bank, endeavored in vain to mount it. Notwithstanding our assistance, the poor animal remained in the water
for hours, whilst we all, standing in the mire, worked
hard to get it over, hoping to save its life; at last we
tried the same side it had entered, which was apparently,
that is, above water, much the most difficult, and succeeded in helping it out. We then once more returned
to the hill, and encamped near by. I began to think it
an exceedingly unpleasant pleasure trip, but consoled
myself with shooting a curlew, sixty yards, off hand, with
a rifle ball; its bill was more than four inches long, and
of the size of a rye straw.
17th. Passed three hours in making a third and successful attempt to cross this vile stream at a new place.
Went E. of N., and soon came in sight of the Little
Nemehaw River, which in its scenery most strikingly resembles its " Grand" namesake, though we thought, after
wading our horses for a mile through its rich bottom, that
it was a "little" larger.
This is a beautiful country between the Nemehaws,
about twenty-five miles over; a strip of it, ten miles wide,
along the Missouri, has been appropriated as a reserve
for the Otto and Omahaw half-breeds.
In two hours we had crossed this stream, in the same




100         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
manner as the other, and were in motion to the N. W. on
a fine prairie ridge, and did not reach "' wood and water,"
a suitable camping-ground, until nine o'clock at night.
CHAPTER XIV.
18TH.  Proceeded early a little N. of west, crossing
an endless succession of prairie hills, between which were
generally gutters filled with clear water, with vertical
sides, and so deep that the horses had to leap them.
After two hours' rest at noon, we ascended the "divide"
between the waters of the Nemehaws (or Missouri) and
the Great Platte River.  This, the highest ground between two mighty rivers, is an immense prairie of table
land, impressing the senses with the idea of an elevation
far greater perhaps than the reality, owing to the extraordinary circumstance of there being no higher object
visible-no distant mountain, hill, or inequality, not even
a tree, to restore by comparison a juster estimate. I was
thus, for the first time, out of sight of woods; far away, in
every direction, not even a shrub was to be seen-a green
sea waving in the breeze! An American poet, gaining
here a new idea, might add a line to these of Byron:
There is a pleasure in the pathless woods;
There is a rapture on the lonely shore;
There is society where none intrudes
By the deep sea."
Verily I then felt
"I love not man the less, but Nature more
In this my interview."




IN  THE ARMY.                  101
A thousand unuttered thoughts filled my mind; I almost
fancied I could hear the music of the spheres, of which
old Spenser must have been thinking when he wrote,
"A solemn silence first invades the ear."
It was a vast solitude; but, in my excitement, I found
in truth "society" enough.  Then, how easy for the
mind to restore the scene so lately passed, though gone
forever; and though dwelling upon the unhappy fate
of the fallen race, to people it anew with those bold
hunters of the plains. Amid the traces of reality-the
bleached bones around me-my mind was filled with
images of the Indian and his occupation: war and the
chase. A  short thirty years ago, and from  this spot
thousands of buffalo might have been seen, and the wild
red man rejoicing in the pursuit, the slaughter, and the
feast.  The uncontrolled, the untrammelled, the freefree and happy, as God created them, ere they were
robbed, enslaved, poisoned, withered by the pestilence.
Alas! for the gift of civilization. The "long-knife" came,
and brought with him the "fire-water" and the small-pox,
and completed his work with paper treaties, construed
and explained under the gentle auspices of the sword.
But lo! the alarm! A tribe is roused to arms! As
the sun arose, a bold and bloody deed had been done. A
whole tribe and their enemies! A thousand wild horsemen rush in pursuit, mile after mile-a long, a wonderful
chase, all in sight, over the level prairie-thundering on,
the heavens rent with yells, quavering in a thousand
throats, the appalling cry for the vengeance of blood.'Tis scarcely fancy-I have seen those who have witnessed
such a sight.
9*




102        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
But the Indian was gone-the buffalo was nowhere to be
found;-there seems a sympathy between them, and the
poor animal flies not from the Indian as from the white;
their fates are alike: the buffalo has receded about ten
miles annually for 150 years, and we find them together,
lingering on the barren verge of the great valley. A
short tarrying place was the Father of Waters, the dark
flood of the Mississippi, fit boundary to the mighty empire,
the vast, the beautiful regions to its east; a limit which
an Alexander had scarce wept to cross. But our grasping, restless borderers, o'erleapt it at once, wandering ever
onward through a wilderness of unappropriated riches.
And I, too, a pioneer, was I not here, in this awful though
beautiful plain, full 500 miles beyond, on the verge of
the great American Desert, which caravans of weary
pilgrims will soon penetrate, defying its thirsty poverty,
and the arms of its poor nomad tribes-battling feebly
to the last, for their starving inheritance-scaling the
precipices and eternal snows of the Rocky Mountains, to
seek new homes in that weeping climate of the Columbia
and the Pacific, deprived of every vestige of the comforts
of civilization-that civilization which understanding not,
and sharing not, they will forswear, and abandon forever.
As these thoughts passed through my mind, a dark
thundercloud had slowly arisen in advance of us, and
approaching nearer and nearer, had assumed palpably
the appearance of a vast spread eagle, perfect in shape,
save the head, which seemed averted and hid behind a
bank of cloud. We could but look and wonder in silence,
till the imminent approach of the storm  banished all
thoughts of eagle, Indian, buffalo, or squatter, and making
an anxious survey, I beheld far away a solitary oak,
which, experience had taught me to believe, stood sentinel



IN THE ARMY.                   103
like, the guardian, or rather offspring, of a fountain.
Patiently we rode toward it, and our faith was rewarded,
for such was found to be the case.  We prepared our
night camp in time to escape the worst of a drenching
shower.
June 19.  Pursued a W. N. W. course, and in a few
hours came in sight of the Great Platte River, and made
a halt at the Little Saline; it is twenty yards wide-a
shallow stream, running swiftly over a rocky bottom: the
water is brackish. We remounted at twelve o'clock, and
following up the course of the river, passed over a low,
sandy, sterile district. There were many trails leading
to the Otto villages.  The Indians, moving like the
buffaloes, in single file, make, like them, deep paths. We
passed, in succession, the " Old Village" and the "Lower
Village," oppressed by heat and thirst, and somewhat
sorrowful that all signs, or absence of signs, indicated
that the Indians had all gone on the summer hunt. At
sunset we reached the Upper Village, which, accordingly,
we found utterly deserted.
Finding nothing but stagnant water, and hoping to do
justice to an intolerable thirst, I seized a bucket, descended a lofty and very precipitous bluff on which the
village stands, crossed the flat meadow bottom (having
been deceived by appearances as to the distance of the
river, which was in reality half a mile), and at last found
that the water was exceedingly muddy and quite warm.
It was now growing dark, and I turned back over the
wild flats, in the midst of a thunderstorm.  Gusts of
rain and wind rendered my steps unsteady-the lightning's
glare, revealing in the tall rustling grass the many pools
of water, seemed actually to play around the bright
bucket which I held in my hand.  I found my party
had selected qtarters in a "lolge."




104        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
These dwellings of the Indian are more comfortable
than the common houses in the frontier States. Around
a circular excavation about three feet deep, and forty in
diameter, a conical edifice of poles rests upon a strong
framework; this is covered three or four feet thick with
wattled bushes, &c., and earth-leaving at the apex
about twenty-five feet from the floor, a small opening for
light and the escape of smoke; in the centre of the hard
dirt floor the fire is made; a stout stick is planted, with
an inclination over it, to hold the kettle; around the
wall are very comfortable berths, rendered more or less
private by matting screens; there is but one entrance,
through a rather low-pitched passage. Cool in summer,
and warm in winter, they are never troubled with smoke.
Many are much larger, but this is the usual size, in which
several families live. The village consists of about fifty
of these lodges; close by are pens of wattled canes, for
the security of horses by night. There are fifty or sixty
acres in corn on the fiat below, with the slightest attempt
at fencing, but distinctly divided, where it is not in
patches.
June -20th. I was awoke last night by the thunder reverberating around my subterranean abode, and beheld
the lightnings seeming to play around a hole in the sky
of utter darkness; between asleep and awake, my sensations were the more strange and pleasing, as I could not
realize my unwonted situation.
Finding the river too high to cross, we concluded to
send Godfrey to a trading-house, thirty miles above, on
the Missouri, for assistance. So we set to work to make
a small raft of the logs we could find. He seated himself, paddle in hand, astraddle on one end, near waist
deep in water, but with some articles dry on the "bow."




IN  THE ARMY.                  105
We lost sight of him near the other bank, and a mile
lower down.
This is the largest tributary of the Missouri, and, like
all other rivers entering it (or the Lower Mississippi) from
the S.W., is turbid. All those from the other side are
clear; and this extraordinary rule holds with respect to
the tributaries of the Arkansas and Red Rivers. The
Platte, in most of its course, has a perfectly level bottom,
without timber, and from  two to twelve miles broad.
Rising at the base of the Rocky Mountains, near the
source of the Arkansas, the waters of the two springs
mingle, after flowing in a devious circuit of 4000 miles.
The scene in the village to-night is imposing. The
stars shine brightly-it is a perfect calm; the crescent
throws a doubtful shadow. I wander among the earth
mounds, more like ancient tombs than the abodes of man;
far below, the swollen and mighty river, "dark heaving,"
sounds a- melancholy and awful monotone; the poetical
whip-poor-will alone breaks the dead oppressive silence
with the music of a living sound. Far in the wilderness,
we feel doubly alone amid these deserted dwellings of
man.
June 21. At 4 P.M. three horsemen appeared to our
anxious eyes beyond the river; it was Godfrey with aid,
and we were directed to the village, three miles below.
He got over late and with much difficulty, bringing with
him a half-breed and the old Frenchman, Barada, the
semi-amphibious, universal interpreter, and father of forty
children.
June 22.  About sunrise, in a cold drizzle, we were on
the river-bank, looking on with some curiosity at the
doings of our savage friends. Two elk skins united were
gathered round the edge, and distended with willow




106        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
boughs; then called a bouco, it was ready for the launch;
but that a Frenchman seems to make it a rule, if he find
no holes, to punch some through and then tie them up.
Dressed in woollen, and a blanket thrown around me, I
shivered as I looked on, and then most reluctantly stripped myself-save a cloth vest-to take my place in this
strange and dangerous aquatic experiment. In the bouco
was placed all the baggage, and Mr. B.  Godfrey took
charge of the horses. Half swimming and half wading
in quicksands, the two others, rope in mouth, took this
leather tub in tow, while I steadied it behind. The river
is half a mile wide in a direct line; we had chosen a
point where there was an island in the midst.  We
reached it in safety; but I was almost convulsed with
cold, and nearly speechless. I wrapped myself up on the
sand in two blankets, and in twenty minutes was much
recovered. The men had fashioned the butts of two green
willows into the semblance of paddles, when Mr. B. and
myself both entered the bouco-the stout Maugrain leading, old Barada behind. This side was worse; the water
ran in great waves. We paddled with all our strength.
At last Maugrain faltered, and would have sunk us, but
fortunately he found himself in depth. With a brave
heart he put out his utmost powers, and reached the bank,
silent, but evidently much overcome. The paddling had
quite restored my circulation.
After a short breathing-time, our horses being saddled,
we left the banks of the Platte; crossing the level
prairie bottom, without other adventure than miring
a horse, we approached the Elkhorn, six miles distant. This, like the stream of the same name in Kentucky, is a beautiful one; it is about fifty feet wide, of a
sandy bottom, limpid and deep waters. After taking




IN  THE  ARMY.                  107
here a cup of hot coffee, we pursued our ride, and eight
miles brought us to the Papillon, a small and muddy
stream mouthing in the Missouri; the Elkhorn empties
into the Platte from the left, so here is a remarkable instance of the extraordinary rule applying to the Western
waters before mentioned.
On approaching the Missouri, the country assumes appearances of more variety and interest than the prairie,
distant from water-courses, where there is great uniformity; here are to be seen  abrupt hills, partially
covered with trees, and nearer the river on either side,
conical in shape, with jutting rocks.  Having ridden
twenty-five miles in an E.N.E. direction, we arrived this
afternoon at Cabanne's trading-house, which is a few
miles below old Fort Atkinson, on " Council Bluff," and
were delighted in having accomplished the last of our
difficulties-which had their origin and aggravation in
cold rains.
June 23.  The Missouri having risen three feet last
night, there is a probability of the Fur Company's steamboat, Yellow Stone, getting down from  above; where,
having been long detained by low water, preparations have
been made for passing the year.
The Ottos had left their village ten days; they fear
the small-pox, which is here reported to be at Liberty,
Missouri. Four or five hundred of the Pawnees have died
of the influenza, which has passed through this region as
an epidemic. Winter, spring, and summer, the weather
is very damp and cold.
An old acquaintance, a resident of the country, arriving to-day, we rode together to view the localities and
ruins of Fort Atkinson.  We found but melancholy
memorials of the long occupation of the post by the gal



108        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
lant, the "marching 6th;" soon the luxuriant blue grass,
will alone remind the wandering traveller of the former
existence of this post, " renowned in stories."
After remaining in this vicinity a few days, we procured a canoe-rather out of sorts-of which the rising
waters had deprived some owner above; and sending
back the horses by an Indian, embarked on our return,
still with Godfrey for our only assistant. The only store
of meat which we took for a descending voyage of about
300 miles, was five pounds of salted pork.
In a few hours we passed the spot where the Great
Platte impetuously discharges itself by several channels
right across the current of the Missouri, thus causing a
turmoil amid the waters rather dangerous to our primitive
navigation.  A  change is here observed in the river
scenery, and a great improvement: it now resembles that
of the Ohio, or Upper Mississippi; and it is remarkable
that the bluffs rise from the river only on the right bank,
for 200 miles below this point; they are here crowned
with forests.  On the north side is a wonderful bottom,
perfectly level, and averaging about three miles in width;
about half a mile of this, nearest the river, is almost invariably a lofty forest,-beyond, a beautiful savanna.
About 400 square miles of exceedingly rich and beautiful,
level, and well-watered ground in a body!-Thirty-five
miles lower, we passed the mouth of the Rivibre de Table,
running from the south; five miles lower, there is a remarkable pass, where a bluff of vertical rock projects into
the river, where it is not above 150 yards wide. We
encamped near sunset, having run eighty miles (by French
count, thirty-two leagues) in eleven and a half hours, with
but one paddle, and stopping to kill a deer.
The next day we passed the mouth of the Little Neme



IN THE ARMY.                    109
haw, just below which is apparently a fine place for building-a bluff handsomely sloped, and sufficient timber;
and, it is said, a vein of stone-coal close at hand. About
three miles lower is the most beautiful spot I have seen
on the river. Not far from here, as Godfrey relates, the
Ottos last winter killed forty elks in deep snow with their
tomahawks.
Finding a deer in the river, this forenoon, we gave
chase; it was nearly a mile below, but the poor animal,
alarmed at our rapid approach, became confused, and repeatedly changed its course; all paddling our best, the
canoe shot like an arrow; we got within twenty feet,
when my rifle, for the first time, missed fire. I then tried
a shot-gun with no better luck.  Godfrey's rifle also
missed; the deer was close to land, when at another trial
Godfrey's gun went off, and deer too; but poor fellow, with
a ball through his neck. The deer are driven to the bars
by musquitoes by the score; we have only to give the
canoe a good direction, partially conceal our bodies, and
suffer it to float, to get within a few feet of them; in this
manner we killed to-day a fat doe.
The third evening we arrived safely at Cantonment
Leavenworth.
CHAPTER XV.
WE were often visited by deputations and treaty-parties
of the many wilder tribes of Indians, varying as much
in dress and personal appearance as in character and pursuits.  The celebrated Shawnee Prophet was once or
twice at the post, and I have heard him speak in council;
he was an old man, but little distinguished in appearance.
10




110        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
One hundred Pawnees paid us a visit, on business with
their agent; Capot Bleu was at their head, a chief remarkable for dignity and suavity of manners-a born
gentleman.  Reared wholly in prairies, they seemed
almost lost in the little woods around us. We all attended one evening at a dance among their camp fires; of
their entertainments, one was very remarkable, resembling, indeed, an institution of Classic Greece. Of a
sudden, a fine-looking warrior sprang into the circle,
stuck an arrow into the ground, and then, in the most
animated language, recounted one of his deeds in arms;
closing with a call upon any performer of a greater action
to make his claim to the prize.  He said, in substance,
that he had ridden alone to a Spaniard's (Mexican's)
house, shot down the owner, scalped him, and driven off
sixty horses and mules. After a pause, another brave
arose; described an action which he deemed more brave
or reputable. He had, on a certain occasion, struck'a
man in battle: and then removing the arrow, laid it at
the feet of the presiding chief. Others in like manner
offered articles, some of more value, until many had, in
their finest style of oratory, proclaimed their proudest
deeds. These recitals are always strictly veracious; and
fashion, or custom, decides that they are not immodest.
At the close, the chief adds his sanction by a distribution
of the prizes. Opinion has settled the comparative honor
of many of these feats. The highest is, to take a warrior prisoner; the second, first to strike a dead or fallen
man in battle: there are several reasons given for this
singular honor; one perhaps is, that it is most likely to
fall to the person who has slain the enemy. A wounded
man is dangerous to approach, and will generally have




IN  TIIE  ARMY.                 111
friends near him; and it is a frequent stratagem to feign
death to draw  on  an  enemy-seeking this honor-to
almost certain destruction. I once saw a warrior rushing
too eagerly to strike a foe, who certainly was quite dead,
killed by an accidental shot. Next to this feat is, to
strike an opposing enemy in battle.
We were frequently visited by parties of Ottoes, from
near the mouth of the Great Platte; they were a brave
and interesting people. Their principal chief, I-e-tan,
was a distinguished man, of great prowess, and profound
judgment, or craft; perhaps his most remarkable quality
was, a close observation and penetration of character and
motives.  I heard a gentleman, who knew him well, and
spoke his language, say, that he had known him to form
judicious if not accurate estimates of men, from a half
hour's acquaintance, and without understanding a word
that was spoken. But deep beneath the calm exterior of
his character burned a lava of impetuous passions which,
when strongly moved, burst forth with a fierce and blind
violence.
I-e-tan had the advantage of a fine and commanding
figure; so remarkable, indeed, that once at a dinner on
a public occasion at Jefferson Barracks, his health was
drank, with a complimentary application of the lines"A combination and a form indeed,
Where every god did seem to set his seal,
To give the world assurance of a man."
There was a passage in the life of this chief which has
been so perverted by an Indian story-monger, that I
cannot refrain from giving it rightly. In a deep carouse
which took place one night in the village in 1822, his
brother, a fine fellow, named Blue-eyes (that color being




112        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
very extraordinary in an Indian), had the misfortune to
bite off a small piece of I-e-tan's nose.  So soon as he
became fully sensible of this irreparable injury, to which,
as an Indian, he was perhaps even more sensitive than a
white man, I-e-tan burned with a mortal resentment.
He told his brother that he would kill him; and retired,
got a rifle, and returned. Blue-eyes was found leaning
with folded arms against a pillar of his lodge, and thus,
with a heroic Stoicism which has been rightly attributed
as a characteristic of the race, without a murmur, or a
word, or the quiver of a muscle, submitted to his cruel
fate. I-e-tan deliberately shot him through the heart.
Then was I-e-tan seized with a violent remorse, and
exhibited the redeeming traits of repentance and inconsolable grief, and of greatness, in the very constancy of
the absorbing sentiment. He retired from all intercourse
with his race, abstaining wholly from drink, for which he
had a propensity; as if under a vow he went naked for
near two years; he meditated suicide, and was probably
only prevented from committing it by the influence of a
white friend; but he sought honorable death in desperate
encounters with all enemies he could find, and in this
period acquired his name or title, from a very destructive
attack which he made upon a party of the I-e-tan tribe.
He lived a year or two with the Pawnees, acquired perfectly their very difficult language, and attained a great
influence over them, which he never lost. After several
years of such penance I-e-tan revisited the villages of his
nation; and, in 1830, on the death of La Criniere, his
elder brother, succeeded him as principal chief.
I-e-tan married many of the finest girls of his own and
neighboring tribes, but never had children.  Latterly,
one of his wives proved to be pregnant; and, while wa



IN  TIE ARMY.                  113
vering between love and revenge, a male child was born
with teeth.  Vanity now proved the strongest passion;
he feigned to believe it his son, and pronounced it a
special interposition of the Great Spirit, of which this
extraordinary sign was the proof. I-e-tan was the last
chief who could so far resist the ruinous influence of the
increasing communication of his tribe with the villanous
-the worse than barbarous whites of the extreme frontier, as to keep the young men under a tolerable control;
his death proved a signal for license and disorder.
Intemperance was the great fault in I-e-tan's character
-the cause of his greatest misfortune and crime; it led
to a violent death. The circumstances of this tragedy
are worthy of record, if only that they develop some
strong traits of aboriginal character; they are as follows.
In April, 1837, accompanied by his two youngest wives, at
a trading-house near the mouth of the Platte, he indulged
in one of his most violent fits of drunkenness; and in
this condition, on a dark and inclement night, drove his
wives out of doors; two men of his tribe, who witnessed
these circumstances, took the utmost advantage of them,
and seduced the women to fly in their company. One of
these men had formerly been dangerously stabbed by
I-e-tan.  Actuated by hatred-calculating perhaps on
the chief's declining power, and the strength of their
connection, which was great-the seducers becoming
tired of outlying in hunting camps, &c., determined to
return to the village and face it out. Such cases of elopement are not very unfrequent; but, after a much longer
absence, the parties generally become silently reconciled,
if necessary through the arrangement of friends. But
I-e-tan said that it was not only a personal insult and
injury, but an evident defiance of his power, and that
10*




114        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
he would live or die the chief of the Ottoes. His enemies
had prepared their friends for resistance, and I-e-tan
armed himself for the conflict. He sought and found the
young men in the skirts of the village, near some trees
where their supporters were concealed. I-e-tan addressed
the man whom he had formerly wounded: " Stand aside!
I do not wish to kill you; I have perhaps injured you
enough."  The fellow immediately fled. He then fired
upon the other, and missed him; about to return the
fire, he was shot down by a nephew of I-e-tan's, from a
great distance.  I-e-tan then drew  a pistol, jumped
astride his fallen enemy, and was about to blow his brains
out, when the interpreter, Dorian, hoping even then to
stop bloodshed, struck up his pistol, which was discharged
in the air, and seized him around the body and arms: at
this instant the wounded man, writhing in the agony of
death, discharged his rifle at random; the ball shattered
Dorian's arm, and broke both of I-e-tan's; but being then
unloosed, he sprang upon and stamped the body, and
called upon his sister, an old woman, who, with an axe in
hand, came running like his nephews and friends from
the village, to beat out his brains, which she did. At this
instant (Dorian being out of the way) a volley was fired
from the trees at I-e-tan, and five balls penetrated his
body; then, his nephews coming too late to his support,
took swift vengeance: they fired at his now flying enemies, and, although they were in motion, near two hundred yards distant, three of them fell dead.
I-e-tan was conveyed to his lodge in the village, where,
being surrounded by many relations and friends, he deplored the condition of the nation, and warned them
against the dangers and evils to which it was exposed.
He assured them most positively that if he willed it, he




IN THE ARMY.                   115
could continue to live; but that many of the Ottoes had
become such dogs, that he was weary of governing them;
and that his arms being broken, he could no longer be a
great warrior.  He gave some messages for his friend,
the agent who was expected at the village, and then
turning to a bystander, told him he had heard that day
he had a bottle of whiskey, and to go and bring it; which
being done, he caused it to be poured down his throat,
when being drunk, he sang his death-song and died.
CHAPTER XVI.
AMID the quiet inactivity of an infantry outpost, I
could scarcely fail to inquire into and learn much of the
manners, customs, and traditions of the aboriginal tribes,
with many of which I was much in contact.
The Indian is still misunderstood by bookwriters and
readers.  Lately we have begun to discover that the
apathy and insensible sternness of disposition ascribed
to them, are a mistaken exaggeration of their manners
before strangers.  It originated perhaps in an overwrought copy of the cold dignity and hardness of the
reputed Roman character; and served-while it misledto give a factitious interest to the red hero of a romance;
but the world may rely upon it that those whose pursuits
have led to intimate acquaintance with the native character of the aborigines, have not been writers.
The Indian, so reserved and dignified in council, and
in his intercourse with strangers, at home with his tribe,




116        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
and in domestic life is eminently social; full of merriment and laughter, and fond of a practical joke, he seeks
lively company; attends feasts and amuses himself with
ludicrous narratives, or listens to the marvellous stories
and traditions of the olden time; he frequently passes
the night in singing and dancing; or, in romantic mood,
serenades with his flute, and sings praises to some red
beauty who holds the vigils of love.
The Indian learns to control his passions in consequence of the absence of a protecting law; they fight
only with weapons, and the taking of life leads to bloody
family feuds, to factions, and sometimes to civil war.
He knows no moral restraint upon lying; and his life
is spent in the study and practice of deceit, as a means of
aggrandizement; and for the attainment of petty ends, he
uses it with a liberality only limited by the fear of detection; this, as with the Spartan theft, is the only crime.
Frequent exposure only brands him with the character of
fool.
On the women, of course, falls the domestic drudgery,
as it does on most white women, with the only difference,
that it is of a harsher and more laborious kind; a consequence of their wild mode of life, which, too, of course,
hardens the women and fits them for their duties.  Some
of these would unfit the man for hunting, in which he
has his full share of the curse of labor. On his return
to his lodge after days of exhausting exposure and exertions for the support of his family, his wife is happy in
every care for his comfort; removes his stiff-worn clothing; hastens to cook and set before him the best food
which she has; offers him  a pipe; unpacks the meat
which he has brought; and willingly, if her little son has
not done it, takes care of the horse.  The husband




IN  THE ARMY.,                 117
strives to obtain wealth in horses to relieve his family
of travelling on foot and carrying burdens. The wife is
contented and happy.
The men are fond of their children, and playful in
their intercourse with them; parents give them lessons
of prudence and good behavior; but the boys soon throw
off the restraint of their mothers, who, when they become
seven or eight years of age, begin to stand in dread of
the bow and arrows of the young warriors; at ten or
twelve, the boys begin to rebel also against their fathers,
whom they are apt to strike on provocation with the first
thing they lay their hands on; the father then goes off
rubbing his hurt, and tells his neighbors what a brave
warrior his boy will become.
The daughters, under the maternal eye, are very generally chaste, as a matter of policy: after marriage they
are less so; but perhaps not less than among the civilized.
Some tribes, however, hold this virtue in small esteem.
The Indian eats when he is hungry, and at no regular
times; so that the members of a family seldom eat
together, and the women very seldom  with the men.
They are almost equally irregular in their hours of sleep
and rest.
They have no distinction of vulgar and polite language,
and feel no indelicacy in using all expressive words in
every society and presence.
The men all choose some animal, bird, or fish, as their
own peculiar patron, to which they offer a kind of worship, much like that of patron-saints: it is their "totem,"
a sort of coat-of-arms, and from it they frequently take
their name. An Indian will seldom kill or eat of the
chosen animal; he deems it his guide and protector, and
addresses to it speeches and prayers.




118        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
They have physicians, who administer a few simple
remedies; as an emetic, for instance, they use a tea
made of the leaves of the white willow; their treatment
of most local disorders is scarifying, and the blister by fire;
and in addition they are much in the habit of sucking the
seat of pain, and even the most disgusting wounds and
disorders.  They commonly combine the office of physician with that of priest or'prophet;- and their French
appellation has been anglicized into "medicine men."
They endeavor to hide their ignorance, or artfully assist
their remedies by inspiring confidence in their patients,
by using much religious mummery, and the common resorts of quackery-a great instrument in which is their
" medicine bag," which is held in much awe and respect;
it contains a great variety of articles esteemed for one
reason or another; among which some portion or symbol
of the patron-animal always finds a place: one might
imagine they have copied from the veneration and uses
of saintly relics!
The remote Indians almost hourly worship the Supreme
Being; but tinged with the materialism of uncultivated
minds, and the absence of revelation, recognize his presence or attributes in the most striking features of nature;
in the most fearful or beneficent elements of the scheme
of creation.
The first puff in smoking, with an ejaculation, they
direct upwards; and always sacrifice to the Great Spirit
before eating; they cut off a portion of meat, offer it
to the heavens, as his dwelling-place, and then to the
earth, as the mother of all things; after which they
burn it.
In the spring-time parents send out their sons, and
men go forth to lonely places and hill-tops, with their




IN THE ARMY.                   119
faces and persons blackened with mud, as in mourning,
where they fast and pray sometimes for days together,
and sing rude chants in praise and adoration.  With
minds thus exalted and wrought to enthusiasm, they
imagine that they hold intercourse with the Almighty.
In stormy nights, and in tempests, the warriors generally
go out and seek this intercourse of prayers. Prophets
thus arise; fanatics who, perhaps, deceive themselves as
much as others.  With some notable exceptions, the
women never sacrifice, or pray, or worship.
The Indians, at times of impending calamity, sometimes give away their children, as a humiliation and
atonement to propitiate the Almighty.
Many of their ceremonies, beliefs, and traditions strongly
resemble those of the Old Testament. They have prophets
who seem to believe that they hold discourse with the
Supreme Being; they prophesy, and pretend to give his
very words; they make sacrifices, observe feasts, and
fast and pray-not in sackcloth and ashes, but covered,
as a mortification, with mud;-they inflict on themselves
wounds, and have many other modes of penance; they
have traditions of animals speaking, and believe that in
former days men were sometimes turned into animals.
The following nations or tribes of Indians occupy the
middle ground between the most savage and remote, and
those who have been whelmed by the hitherto irresistible
tide of migration, and debauched by their intercourse
with the whites, viz.: Ioways, Ottos, Omahaws, Kansas,
and Osages. Their fate is in suspense, but seems about to
take an unfavorable turn.  They have preserved this
tradition of their origin.
Several hundred years ago, a branch of the great
Winnebago family commenced their wanderings from the




120        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
great lakes westward. The motive or cause of this division
and migration is not assigned; faction, the exigencies of
war or dearth, may have given the impulse.
It would be interesting, if it were possible, to trace
their progress; to inquire whether their advance was
peaceful; if the regions passed over were in the possession
of other tribes; or, if this may be inferred, whether they
resisted, were destroyed, or driven forward on the territories of others. It might afford a partial solution of the
great problem of the origin and history of the savage
tribes found by our ancestors in possession of this vast
country.  We daily discover the monuments of a more
civilized, but perhaps soft and effeminate race, who were
supplanted by these savage warriors-the hardy children
of the North-as were the Southern Europeans in the
fifth and sixth centuries by innumerable hordes of barbarians; so overwhelming in their course as to leave but a
germ  of Southern civilization, which in nine centuries
after had scarce attained its ancient growth.  Cortez
found in Mexico such a race, perhaps their descendants,
constituting a great monarchy.
After the arrival of the Winnebagoes on the bank of the
Mississippi, the tradition assigns the cause of another
division.  The son of one powerful chief seduced the
daughter of another, and refused, when called upon, to
take her as a wife. This gross injury caused a violent feud
between the rival leaders, their dependents and friends;
and it became so warm as to extend to the great mass of
their followers. A bloody conflict between the two factions was averted by a timely compromise; the followers
of the offender's father, though much the most numerous,
withdrew from the rest, crossed the Mississippi, and continued their migration.  The partisans of the injured




IN  THE ARMY.                  121
chief remained in the vicinity of the river; their descendants are the Ioways.
Other causes of division, the greatest of which was
perhaps the scarcity of game, subsequently scattered the
main body, or emigrating party, over extensive districts.
Their descendants are known to compose the four other
tribes before mentioned.  Of these, the Ottos, Omahaws,
and Kansas have permanent villages on the Missouri
River, and two tributaries, the Great Platte and Kansas.
The Osages, formerly extending far south, even beyond
the Arkansas, are now confined to a small district skirting
the west bank of the Neosho, or Grand River. They all
speak dialects of the present Winnebago language, and
bear a strong resemblance in person and customs. The
men of all these nations are of extraordinary size; but
the Osages are the largest, and, I think, exceed the white
Americans.
Their numbers have been much reduced, principally by
small-pox.  They are brave, and fond of war, but have
seldom shed the blood of whites. They are independent
and bold in their intercouse with us, and are also lively
and intelligent. They have fine heads; and their symmetry of person, activity, and powers of endurance, are
remarkable.
Early in June, after planting corn, they are accustomed
to move by whole tribes to the great plains frequented by
buffalo; then they enjoy the chase, and feast for months,
but are also provident enough to dry and smoke a stock
of meat, and return with their horses loaded with it, to
their villages of spacious and comfortable dirt houses.
They now pull much of their corn while it is in the milk,
and dry it carefully in the sun; it is then called " sweet
corn," an excellent and almost universal dish with them;
11




122        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
it keeps well, and, when boiled, swells, and recovers the
tenderness and sweetness of a roasting ear; it is superior
to hominy.  After gathering their crops, they again remove to the game country in October, and there pass the
winter in skin lodges or tents.
CHAPTER XVII.
I CONFESS myself warmly interested in the fate of these
four nations, and one other, the Pawnee, whose condition
is much the same. Their location has been until of late
sufficiently remote to have allowed them, in a great mea —
sure, to escape the degradation of the vices of civilization,
which the depravity and avarice of the pioneers have
always introduced among neighboring Indians. As a
sample of their treaties with the government, I can state
that the Osages ceded about 2,000,000 acres of arable
land to cancel claims which were not to exceed $4000,
made against them by meddling renegade whites, who
have been the bane of their happiness.
Suffering a miserable decay from the horrible diseases
which we have introduced among them without a remedy
or alleviation, they do not complain; and driven nearly
to despair by their contracted limits and the destruction of
game, they have not lifted the bloody hatchet against the
aggressors.
The buffalo must soon fail them; the restless white has
wandered beyond, and is fast exterminating these animals,
essential to the existence of many tribes. Every year at
least one hundred thousand are slain for the skins and




IN  THE ARMY.                  123
tongues.  The American Fur Company takes the lead in
this destruction.
Their near prospect is starvation, with the only alternative to follow the buffalo by a gradual desertion to the
wandering robber tribes of the great prairies. Thus, if
left to their fate, they will cause great disorders on the
frontiers, and miserably linger until they disappear from
the earth; or, losing character, language, and name, sink
the last gradation to utter barbarism, and become the nomad outcasts of the great American desert.
To endeavor to avert this fate must be an object with
every philanthropist.  Any American, of but common
humanity, must feel interested in such a good work; we
have been the source of their injuries and evils, past and
present. But it is evident the Government only can give
an effectual impulse to the most beneficent plans of amelioration; and it could be easily shown, that, leaving out
of consideration the humane policy which it professes,
these tribes have matter of fact claims upon our justice,
so great, that a mere pittance in comparison, if expended
in an enlightened and judicious manner, would perhaps
accomplish all that can be done to save them; and at
the least alleviate their sufferings and soften the hardness
of their sinking fortunes.
In this cause of justice and humanity, I propose to
consider what may be done to reclaim them from barbarism, as the only possible way of preventing their total
extinction.
All the efforts of Government and of charitable and
well-meaning individuals, or societies, have hitherto failed.
The Government, in bargains little better than robbery,
has with a close and sparing hand sold them benefits; has
paid them in promises of assistance in improvement; has




124         SCENES AND ADVENTURES
told them that the introduction of cattle, mills, ploughs,
&c., would be greatly to their advantage; caused them
to assent; and engaged itself to furnish them. But these
engagements, really advantageous if fulfilled in a faithful
manner, have been sometimes neglected, and always, if
performed to the bare letter, been paid in the same spirit
of the bargain; without any further effort for their advantage, without care that they should be taught to reap
any real and lasting benefit; in a word, the United States
has by its functionaries and agents, grossly neglected its
duties and moral obligations. Its " agents" have often
been selected with any other motives than a careful regard to peculiar fitness, an intelligent and paternal interest in their welfare, a devotion to duty. Unprincipled
traders have been ever allowed to reside with the tribes,
and gain an unsalutary influence,* ever exerted for intensely selfish ends; they have been allowed to persuade the
tribes to demand their annuities in specie, in preference
to such goods and necessaries at cost and transportation
prices, as they sell them at an enormous profit. On the
other hand, all private efforts to reclaim and teach the
savages, have been unwisely directed, and often, I grieve
to say, faithlessly applied. Missionaries have often been
incompetent and selfish depositaries of sacred trusts; in
their establishments, the leading principle seems to have
been their own substantial and permanent comfort; or
their measures, founded on mistaken views, have been
executed in an unwise and unconciliating spirit. Their
* This influence, founded on a gratification of their evil passions, is
irresistible. Even in Washington City, deputations of chiefs and principal
men, in treaty councils with the Secretary of War, after receiving his
propositions and advice, delay their decisions and answers for a nightas usual-and then make those dictated or advised by some obscure
trader, or trader's agent, who will always be found to accompany them.




IN  THE ARMY.                   125
efforts have been worse than vain; lasting prejudices have
been created; and in their most successful efforts, the
cases of individual scholars, the effects of an unnatural
advance in science-unaccompanied by the moral restraints
of our religion, which their natures are incapable of receiving,-have but resulted in the exhibition of an increased capacity for vice. All such efforts have been
radically wrong. All history proves that simple Theism
-the conception of the idea of a superintending mind,
capable of directing all the operations of nature,-has
been an attainment beyond the powers of man, in the
early stages of his progress.  Then, he imagines a distinct controlling spirit, or deity, in every natural object
of terror; or of peculiar beneficence, in every effect of
which the cause is concealed from his untutored faculties.
Thus, even the civilized and philosophic Greek worshipped
a multitude of gods; and, to aid his conceptions, clothed
them with human passions and attributes; and, like the
Romans, rejected for ages our holy religion revealed to
the Jews; but only after that nation, under the protection and guidance of the Almighty, to prepare them for
its reception, had ages before been taught by Him, a religion of symbols, forms, and magnificent ceremonies,
which, appealing to the senses of an untutored race, could
engage their imagination, sway their passions, fix their
attention, and ever renew their recollections of past signal
and miraculous favors.
To attempt to teach savages letters and the mysteries
of the Christian religion (not even intelligible to the
most cultivated intellect), is evidently to contemn the experience of all nations. But taking for our guidance the
gradual advances of Europeans, whose histories we possess,
let them first be taught step by step the lessons of civili11*




126        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
zation; let us endeavor first to make them herdsmen,
which alone will be found a difficult and most important
advance; afterward direct their attention to agriculture,
and the simplest mechanic arts. The mental endowments
of civilized men seem inherited like physical distinctions.
Let us not then shock the natures of savages, by attempting to force upon them at once the manners and customs,
the acquirements and the creed, which the gradual progress, the recorded lessons of eighteen centuries have
perfected for us, and in our natures.
Having condemned the systems for civilizing the aborigines hitherto attempted, in pointing out the causes of
their total failure, my efforts in the same good cause would
prove certainly fruitless, unless a more specific practical
plan be added to the general principles which have already
been suggested.
I have already stated, that the failure of the many
treaty stipulations, made with some view to their improvement and permanent welfare, has been the result
of their spiritless or faithless execution (even the letter
of the law has not always been fulfilled); and in part to
an injudicious or incomplete scheme. Mills have been
built, and no millers provided; domestic animals have been
furnished, but with no systematic provision for their preservation and proper uses; farmers have been appointed,
but with so little attention to a good selection, and regulations for their government, that they have proved farmers
for their own profit, instead of that of the Indian; but
above all, the agent, on whom so much must depend, has
but too often been selected without regard to peculiar
fitness. If there is any office under Government, in the
appointment to which it is essential to be actuated by pure
and disinterested motives, and which calls for a most stu



IN  THE ARMY.                  127
dious and judicious selection-, it is this.  The " agent "
must be the soul of the system I would propose.  It
should be an office not to be sought for; but the search
must be for a man possessing these three qualificationsexperience, ability, and devotion to the welfare of the
Indian.  He must be selected as would be the guardian
of one's children.
Assistants should be appointed, whose duties would be
the preservation and management of the domestic animals
furnished by Government for breeding.  Honest men
and good Christians must fill these stations; and they
should well understand in advance, that they are put there
for the benefit of the Indians, and that they are to earn a
livelihood by devotion to their duties; and that therefore
the proceeds of cultivation by Indians, must go solely to
the Indians, who should never be required to labor but for
themselves.
Mills and blacksmith shops should be built, and millers
and blacksmiths appointed, for their immediate benefit
and permanent example.  Log huts should be built for
the chiefs; sheds, inclosures, &c., be constructed for the
protection of cattle, domestic fowls, &c., and farming
tools furnished.  But, in everything, a view should be
had to their instruction, and encouragement to learn the
use of tools, and to work and provide for themselves; and
with this object, pains should be taken to discover and
foster the inclinations or aptness of individuals for the
arts exhibited or practised for their benefit.
Too much restraint would be injudicious; but the possessors of herds might gradually be persuaded, that the
search for far distant buffalo was laborious or disadvantageous. The excitement of war and the chase should be
substituted by all manly amusements, by all means pos



128        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
sible.  Let Government now  prove its sincerity by a
change of its policy, and as agriculture is encouraged,
grant titles in fee, with restriction of alienation to whites:
the advantages of property in severalty would speedily be
apparent, and would turn the scale in favor of civilization.
As a substitute for their vicious traders, factors should
be appointed to sell at the villages all suitable articles at
cost and transportation prices. Barter for peltries should
be discouraged; and on the other hand, liberal prices be
given for agricultural productions: these might be advantageously used for the supply of military posts with forage and rations.
Physicians should be appointed to live with them; to
be compensated in part by regulated and very moderate
charges.
Individuals thus employed with the tribes should, for
their confort and in part compensation, be allowed farming and grazing privileges; but all of them strictly limited to the production of articles for their use.
Unless the trade be strictly confined to factors, treaties or arrangements should be made by which the
distribution of present or future annuities should be uniformly made in equivalents best adapted to the plan of
civilization, and if practicable, be so varied as to offer
encouragements to such courses of conduct as may be
deemed conducive to this general object; and donations
should be made for the purpose of rewards or prizes.
But, above all, a military force at convenient stations,
should maintain by the terror of summary punishments, a
complete non-intercourse with white men.
The world has seen herdsmen, agriculturalists, artisans,
painters, sculptors, generals, and great monarchs, ignorant




IN  THE  ARMY.                 129
of letters; but never a literary savage, ignorant of the
most simple and essential arts of civilized man.
Indian hypocrites have been heard of; but there was
never a Christian savage Indian.  The Almighty, with
wise but inscrutable purposes, has seen fit that the religion
of his Son should make a gradual and slow progress
through the human race: first introduced amid the only
civilized nations, and who had attained every excellence in
literature, its meliorating progress seemed long of doubtful success.  God has not implanted in the savage
nature a capacity of receiving the lesson of Christian
humility; or of conceiving of its being taught in the
person of Omnipotence; He hath ever worked by means;
and the first lessons of Christianity are to be taught in
the humanizing influences of the most simple and laborious arts.
After three centuries, the civilization of our Indians is
yet a problem.  But I have confidence that the plan I
have described would succeed even with the wild tribes I
have mentioned, and a few others, not more distant, and
in a similar condition.
Who will say, that it is not the duty of the American
people to do all this, and more, for these helpless remnants of races which we have slaughtered, oppressed, and
driven off from all the best of the land-the homes which
they have loved and freely bled for?  Unless something
be done, they will soon share the fate of the many free
and brave tribes, whose deeds in defence of their country
have been illustrated in our choicest literature, but who
are gone, and have left no other memorial.
If all should fail, we would at least be able to contemplate their " melancholy " fortunes with more equanimity,
conscious of having done something to smooth their rug



130        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
ged decline, to alleviate the sufferings of want, and to lessen or prevent the miserable and degrading effects of the
vices of our own introduction.
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE most remarkable personage that has appeared
among these tribes was Blackbird, chief of the Omahaws.
This tribe, though now reduced to about 1200 souls, in
his time numbered, perhaps, quite as many warriors.
Blackbird (Wah-shingah Sawby) was born about the
year 1750, in the Omahaw village.  It stands on the
south bank of the Missouri River, ninety miles above
Council Bluff.
The dignity of the principal chief or king-for the
language rather indicates the royal title-among the
Omahaws and most other Indian nations is hereditary,
but subject to frequent irregularities. Blackbird was of
undistinguished parentage; his earliest pursuits were
those of a doctor. To this character he soon added that
of religious juggler; he became a "medicine man."  His
ambition then began to be developed, and he sought by a
habit of austerity to obtain the respect of his fellows;
he rendered himself remarkable for the frequency and
duration of his fasts and religious ceremonies. He next
ventured to appear in the character of prophet; and
whether from unusual foresight, from cunning and management, or perhaps some instances of remarkable luck,
soon became a very distinguished one. Abut this time he,made a fast of great duration, and sat motionless for




IN THE ARMY.                  131
several days and nights on a high white cliff; which was
in view from the village; this over, he gave out that the
Great Spirit had appeared to him face to face, and told
him that he should become a very great man.
Having acquired by these means the importance and
influence of a principal man, Blackbird's ambition was
further excited to follow  the only remaining road to
honors and powers-that of arms; he became a partisan
leader against the Sioux and Pawnees, with whom the
nation is ever at war. le did not mistake his capacity,
and, indeed, became highly distinguished as a successful
warrior.
Greatly respected as a war-chief, and feared as a
prophet, he was now nearly at the pinnacle of Indian
ambition; but Blackbird was not contented: he could not
brook a divided rule; his ambition was boundless.
An extraordinary circumstance now occurred, which
moulded his further fortunes, and, infamously used, led to
fame and despotic power. This was the solitary instance
known of an introduction of arsenic into the Indian
country; it is not known by whom, or for what purpose it
was done; but certain it is that, perhaps accidentally,
the poison fell into the hands of Blackbird, and with a
full knowledge of its qualities and use.
Blackbird had no conscientious scruples to overcomefew of his condition would have had; he soon resolved
on the most judicious and fatal application of this terrible
agent. It was in his character of prophet that he determined to sate his relentless ambition, to rid himself of
enemies, and to become the object of the fear, and even
adoration of the nation.
He at once boldly prophesied the death of the rival
chief: and took measures that it should be fully accom



132        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
plished by means of the poison. The chief suddenly died,
as had been predicted, and the tribe were full of terror.
It is needless to follow him in this sure and terrible
course; he sacrificed a great number;-his enemies, and
those who stood at all in his way. His religious mummery-by which he pretended to hold interviews with the
Almighty-was frequently practised in his lodge; it was
done with much noise and ostentation. The nation heard
and trembled.
When he was known to be angry,-or in times of great
distress and calamity, the people would fearfully enter,
and seek by all means to propitiate his favor: prostrate
on the ground, they gently raised his feet, and placed
them upon their necks!
One of his wives eloped with a Pawnee; he shut himself up, and did not speak for several days:-the whole
nation were in despair:-the parents of the most handsome girls took them to him, and humbly offered them
for his acceptance.
The following instance is given of Blackbird's despotism. The nation were on their return from the summer
hunt; near the heads of the Platte, they were forced to
cross a sandy plain, in which no water was to be found
nearer than a long day's journey. By some means-perhaps by their setting off before he gave the word-he was
offended: he said nothing during the day, but rode on in
advance until he came to the brow of a hill in view of
water; the poor people had suffered exceedingly on the
hot plain, and came straggling on; each pressing desperately forward with all his strength to quench a raging
thirst. He allowed them to get in full view of the water,
and then commanded a halt! The nation obeyed; and
threw themselves on the earth in an agony of fear and




IN THE ARMY.                   133
suffering. Blackbird himself sent forward for water and
drank.  The whole people seemed in danger of destruction.  There was a white man among them, named Barada; after some time he went to the chief and told him
he was killing his people:-he could do so if he chose;but as one of the whites, who held Blackbird in great
friendship and respect, &c., requested to be allowed to go
on. The tyrant then relented, or was glad of an excuse
to give way: he gave his gracious permission that the nation should drink; and accordingly with shouts of joy and
thanks they ran off in a great race to the stream.
Blackbird was in the habit of seizing traders' boats,
taking, or distributing among the people every article of
goods without any account of them;-after the next fall
hunt he would generally make any or all go and throw
down their furs and skins in a great pile before the trader,
until he should say there was enough.
There was one warrior who quailed not before the
terrible power of Blackbird. This was Maundahe Ghingha,
-the Little Bow.  He had become so distinguished that
the chief was jealous, or held his character in some dread;
accordingly, on an occasion of his absence on a hunt,
Blackbird's influence prevailed over his wife, and she consented to poison him on his return.
Agreeably to her instructions, on Little Bow's arrival,
she was particularly attentive and affectionate in her usual
offices: and setting before him a tempting bowl of food,
invited him to eat. I know not if in this case his death
had been foretold,-but from some cause Little Bow was
distrustful: he requested her to partake of the meal;
and on her declining, positively commanded her to eat.
His wife then threw herself at his feet, and with many
12




134        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
tears confessed her crime and revealed the secret of Blackbird's power.
The Little Bow dashed his tomahawk into her brain.
He then threw on his war-dress,-seized his arms, and
mounted his best horse. He galloped through all parts
of the village, proclaimed the villany of the murderous
chief, and endeavored to stir up the people by violent
harangues; he paraded in front of Blackbird's lodge;
accused him of his crimes, uttered every abuse, and defied him to manly combat.
But Blackbird's power, founded on the ignorance and
superstitious fears of the people, was scarcely to be shaken;
the result was that Little Bow raised a party of about
three hundred-including families-with which he seceded,
and built a village about thirty miles above. Here they
lived many years, until they were nearly all exterminated
by small-pox. Little Bow himself survived his great
enemy.
Blackbird, or Tow-wan-ga-hi-Town-builder as he was
also called,-died in 1803, about a year after this event, of
the small-pox. He was buried on the point of a high bluff,
immediately on the river, at the head of Blackbird Bend.
He was placed sitting on his horse; and over him was
erected a lofty mound; it can be seen for more than
twenty miles on the river. He chose this spot, that he
might see the white people-he told his tribe-as they
passed on the river.
Blackbird's memory is still held in reverence and fear;
Indians as they pass, are still in the habit of stopping to
smoke, and make offerings at his tomb.
I would give in connection with the subject of Indian
character some account of a class of self-exiled wanderers
and hunters, whose restless or savage natures, lead them




IN  THE ARMY.                   135
to sever every tie of kindred and country, and to prefer
the privations and dangers of barbarism, among even hostile Indians, to the comforts and most exciting pursuits
of their kind. A sketch of one may answer for the class.
CHAPTER XIX.
SOME INCIDENTS IN THE LIFE OF HUGH GLASS, A HUNTER
OF THE MISSOURI RIVER.
THOSE pioneers, who, sixty years ago, as an advanced
guard, fought the battles of civilization, for the very love
of fighting, may be now recognized in the class of the
hero of my sketch, who 1000 miles beyond the last wave
of the troublous tide of migration, seek their pleasures
in the hunt of a Blackfoot of the Rocky Mountains, a
grizzly bear, or a buffalo. It must be difficult to give
even a faint idea of the toils and risks of a set of men, so
constituted as to love a mode of life only for these attendants; who exist but in the excitement of narrow
escapes,-of dangers avoided or overcome; who often,
such is their passionate devotion to roving, choose it in
preference to comfortable circumstances within the pale
of civilization. Little has been reaped from this field, so
fertile in novel incident that its real life throws romance
into the shade.
The class of people above mentioned, excluded by
choice from all intercourse with the world of white men,
are at different periods very differently occupied:-at
times, as trappers; at others, they live with Indians, conforming in every respect to their mode of life; and often




136        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
they are found entirely alone, depending upon a rifle,
knife, and a few  traps, for defence, subsistence, and
employment.
A trapping expedition arrived on the hunting grounds
is divided into parties of four or five men, which separate
for long periods of time; and as the beaver is mostly in
the country of hostile Indians, in and beyond the Rocky
Mountains, it is an employment of much hazard, and the
parties are under great pains for concealment. Trappers,
and others who remain in these regions, subsist for years
wholly upon game. They never taste bread, nor can they
even procure salt, indispensable as it may be considered
in civilized life.
To take the beaver requires practice and skill. The
trap is set, and then sunk in the stream to a certain depth
(when the water is too deep for it to rest upon the bottom)
by means of floats attached, and a chain confines it to
something fixed or very heavy at the bottom. This depth
must be such, that the animal in swimming over it, is
caught by the leg.  The "bait" consists of some strong
scent, proceeding from a substance placed directly opposite upon the shore; an oil taken from the body of the
animal is generally used. The greatest care is necessary
to destroy all trace of the presence of the trapper when
making his arrangements, which, if discovered by the
most sensitive instinct of the animal, it carefully avoids
the place; they therefore wade, or use a canoe in setting
the trap.
The solitary hunter is found occasionally thus employed,
for the sake of the trade with those who visit the country
solely for that purpose; getting for his skins the few
necessaries of his situation,-blankets, powder, lead, &c.
The white, or more properly, the gray or grizzly bear




IN THE ARMY.                   137
is, next to the Indian, the greatest enemy the hunter
meets with in this region; it is the lion of our forests;
the strongest and most formidable of all its animals. It
is about 400 pounds in weight; its claws more than three
inches long; the buffalo bull, perhaps stronger and more
active than the domestic, is a certain victim to its strength.
If a grizzly bear is reported to be in the vicinity of an
Indian camp or village, fifty or a hundred warriors turn
out (as in the East for a lion or tiger) to hunt to its death
so dangerous and dreaded a neighbor.
The grizzly bear never avoids, very often attacks a
man; while on the other hand, the hunter, but under the
most favorable circumstances, carefully avoids him.
In the summer of 1823, immediately after the desertion
and conflagration of the Arickara village, consequent
upon its attack by the 6th Regiment United States Infantry, a party of eighty men, under the direction of
Major Henry (that had volunteered in that engagement),
left this point of the Missouri River, intending to gain the
head waters of the Yellow Stone to make a fall hunt for
beaver. The party had journeyed four days in the prairie;
on the fifth we would introduce our hero (who has been
rather backward) to the attention of the reader-v-if, indeed, it has not been already lost in the rugged field prepared for his reception.
On the fifth day, Glass (who was an engage in the expedition) left the main body accompanied by two others,
to make one of the usual hunts, by which, while subsistence is acquired the party is not detained. Having near
night succeeded in killing buffalo, they were directing
their common course to a point, near which they knew
must be the position of the camp for the night; it was on
a small stream, and as they passed near one of its curves,
12*




138        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
Glass became somewhat detached from the others, intending to drink of its waters; at this moment his progress
was arrested by the sight of a grizzly bear issuing from
beneath the bank opposite to him.  His companions,
overcome by their fears, which no obligation to share with
him his unavoidable danger could resist, profited by their
more favorable situation to attempt escape by flight,
leaving him to his destiny.
A contest with a grizzly bear, more tenacious of life
than a buffalo, is always dangerous; to insure a probability of success and safety, all the energies must arise in
proportion to the magnitude of the danger; and they
must be shown in perfect coolness; the slightest falter,
which with the many would result from a loss of this presence of mind, would render the case hopeless and insure
destruction.
Glass would gladly have retreated, but he knew all
attempts would be useless. This desperate situation only
nerved him to the combat. All depended upon the success of his first and only shot;-with an aim, cool and
deliberate, but quick, lest greater rapidity in the animal
should render it more uncertain, he fired his rifle. The
shot was a good one; eventually mortal; but its immediate effect was only to raise to its utmost degree, the
ferocity of the animal, already greatly excited by the
sight and opposition of its intended prey; it bounded
forward with a rapidity that could not be eluded, in pursuit of its flying adversary, whom danger, with means of
defence, had inspired with deliberate action, but now only
gave wings for his flight. But it was unavailing, and he
knew it;-an appalling roar of pain and rage, which
alone could render pallid a cheek of firmness, chilled him
-to the soul; he was overtaken, crushed to the earth, and




IN  THE ARMY.                  139
rendered insensible but to thoughts of instant death. The
act of contact had been two blows, inflicting ghastly
wounds; the claws literally baring of flesh the bones of
the shoulder and thigh. Not sated with this work of an
instant, the bear continued to pursue, with unabated
speed, the flight of the two other hunters:-the chase
was to them awfully doubtful:-every muscle of a hunter's
frame strained to its utmost tension-the fear of a horrid
death-the excitement of exertion-together producing a
velocity seldom equalled by bipeds, had been unavailing in
contest with that of the superior strength and fleetness of
the raging animal. But, fortunately, it could not last;
-it was expended in the distance, from loss of blood;its exertions became more feeble;-the sacrifice of a
deserted comrade had saved their lives; —they reached
the camp in safety.
When sufficiently recovered, they reported the death
of Glass, and their escape from the pursuit of the wounded
grizzly bear. A large party was instantly in arms. It
had gone but a short distance when the bear was discovered and despatched without difficulty. Glass, they
found, was not yet dead; they bore him to the camp, still
insensible from the shock of his dreadful wounds. They
were considered mortal, but, of course, bound up and
treated as well as their circumstances would admit.
A question then arose, how he should be disposed of;
to carry him farther was useless, if not impossible; and
it was finally settled that he should be left. Eighty dollars were subscribed for any two men who would volunteer
to remain with him, await his death, and then overtake
the party. A man named Fitzgerald, and a youth of
seventeen, accepted the proposals; and the succeeding
day the main party continued its route as usual.




140        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
For two days they faithfully administered to his wants;
then their imaginations began to create difficulties in their
situation; at least their inactive stay became very irksome; and as they considered his recovery as hopeless,
they equally agreed to think their remaining longer useless.  Thus wrought upon, and from innate depravity,
they conceived the horrid idea of deserting him, overtaking the party, and reporting his death: —and they
determined upon the prompt execution of their design:nay more, these most heartless of wretches, taking advantage of his first sleep, not contented with the desertion of
a sacred trust, robbed him of his rifle, knife, and, in
short, everything but a small kettle containing water, and
a wallet on which his head rested; and which fortunately
contained a razor.
On awakening, how  could he realize his situation!
Helpless from painful wounds, he lay in the midst of a
desert. His prospect was starvation and death. He was
deserted by the human race.
But this act, which words cannot sufficiently blacken,
perhaps gave a vital excitement. He muttered a mingled
curse and prayer:-he had a motive for living!  He
swore, as if on his grave for an altar, his endless hatred,
and if spared, his vengeance on the actors in so foul a
deed.
Glass, when his water was exhausted, for fear he should
become so weak as to perish for want of it, succeeded
with great difficulty in crawling to the edge of the stream,
where he lay incapable of further exertion for several
days.
Few are aware, until tried, of their capacity for endurance: and the mind seldom shrinks from an exertion that




IN THE ARMY.                  141
will yield a single ray of hope to illume the darkness of
its waste.
Glass did not despair; he had found he could crawl,
and he determined to endeavor to reach a spot where he
could better hope for succor. He crawled towards the
Missouri, moving at the rate of about two miles a day!
He lived upon roots and buffalo berries. On the third
day he witnessed near him the destruction of a buffalocalf by wolves;-and here he gave a proof of a cool
judgment: he felt certain, that an attempt to drive the
wolves from their prey before their hunger was at least
somewhat appeased, would be attended with danger; and
he concluded to wait till they had devoured about half of
it, when he was successful in depriving them of the remainder: and here he remained until it was consumed,
resting and perhaps gaining strength. His knees and
elbows had, by now, become bare; he detached some of
his other clothing, and tied them around these parts,
which must necessarily be protected, as it was by their
contact with the ground that motion was gained.
The wound on his thigh he could wash; but his shoulder,
or back, was in a dreadful condition. For more than
forty days he thus crawled on the earth, in accomplishing
a five days' journey to the Arickara village. Here he
found several Indian dogs still prowling among the ruins;
he spent two days in taming one of them sufficiently to
get it within his power: he killed it with the razor, and
for several days subsisted upon the carcass.
Glass, by this time, though somewhat recovered of the
effect of his wounds, was, as may be supposed, greatly
reduced; but he continued his weary and distressing progress, upon arms and knees, down the Missouri River.
In a few days he was discovered by a small party of




112        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
Sioux Indians: these acted toward him the part of a good
Samaritan.  The wound on his back was found in a horrid condition. It had become full of worms. The Indians
carefully washed it, and applied an astringent vegetable
liquid.  He was soon after taken by them  to a small
trading-house about eighty miles below, at the mouth of
the Little Missouri.
CHAPTER XX.
GLASS slowly recovered from  his wounds.  He had
been greatly reduced; he was, indeed, when found, a mere
skeleton: but a vigorous frame and strong constitution,
inured to constant exercise and rough labors, thus rendered iron-like, with little encouragement, quickly recovers
from shocks that would be fatal to men of different pursuits. While in this situation, his curse, his oath of vengeance on the authors of half his misfortune, had not
been forgotten.  When in his feverish dreams he fought
his battles o'er,-entrapped the wary beaver,-enticed to
its death the curious antelope,-when the antlered buck
was arrested in his pride by his skill, and weltered before
him,-and when the shaggy strength of the untamable
buffalo sank beneath his fatal rifle, the bear, the grizzly
bear, would still disturb his slumbers; a thousand times
would be imaged to his mind the horrid, the threatening
grin of its features; now its resistless paw was suspended
over his head, with nought to avert the death-inflicting
blow-and now its bloody teeth mangled his vitals. And
again it would change, and he was confronted by mortal
foes;-and he felt a spellbound inactivity: goblin-like




IN  THE ARMY.                 143
they danced before him; retreated, advanced, in mockery
of the impotence of their intended victim;-and then he
would see them afar off, with demon countenances of grim
satisfaction, in leaving him to a fate they could easily
avert, of studied cruelty, worse than death. Awaking
with convulsive start, the " Great Nemesis" ever invoked
by the unfortunate, would seem to whisper him, " Hast
thou forgot thy oath?"
His oath of revenge was far from  forgotten.  He
nourished it as an only consolation; an excitement to
hasten recovery. Near two months had elapsed, when
Glass was again on his feet. Nor had his ill fate in the
least dampened the hunter's ardor: he the rather felt
uneasy quickly to resume his adopted habits, which he
had so long, so unwillingly foregone.
The pleasures of this roving, independent, this careless
life of the hunter, when once tasted with relish, the subject is irreclaimable, and pines in disgust amid the tameness of more quiet occupations.
Glass had found sympathy among his new friends at
the trading-house.  Who could withhold deep interest
from the story of such wrongs? He was destitute of
clothing, the rifle, butcher-knife, &c., the means of the
support, and even existence of the hunter. These they
generously supplied him. A party of six of the engagees,
headed by one Longevan, had occasion about this time
to ascend the Missouri, in a Mackinaw-boat, with the purpose of trading with the Mandans, about 300 miles
above; these Glass resolved to accompany; he was
anxious to rejoin the trapping expedition from which he
had been cut off; a great object, it may be readily conjectured, was to meet the two wretches he was so much
indebted to.




144        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
The party set out in their Mackinaw in October; and
near a month did they tug against the stubborn current
of the Missouri: so slow is the progress of all boats but
those impelled by resistless steam, that hunters have the
greatest leisure to subsist a party thus employed. At
the Big Bend, a half hour's walk across reaches the point
gained in three days by the boatman's labor. Among the
hunters, Glass was, as usual, conspicuous for patience and
success.  Many fat elk fell by his hand.
The Arickara Indians, driven by armed forces from
their extensive village, had retreated up the river to the
Mandans for relief. They had been overpowered but not
vanquished; and their immemorial hostility to whites was
but aggravated to fresh deeds of outrage.
Late in October, the Mackinaw had reached within
twenty miles of the Mandan village. Nor had its party
been more cautious than is usual on the river. Late in
an afternoon, at this time, they unsuspectingly landed to
put ashore a hunter; and, as it happened, at a point
nearly opposite the spot chosen by the Arickaras for their
temporary abode.  Ever on the alert, the boatfull of
white men had in the morning been descried by one of
their out-parties; and a runner had informed the tribe of
the glad tidings. So all was in readiness for the destruction of the unconscious objects of savage revenge. Scarce
had the boat left the beach, and Glass, as the hunter (his
lucky star still prevailing), gained the concealment of
willows, when a hundred guns or bows sent forth their
fatal missiles, and on the instant rose the shrill cry of war
from a hundred mouths.  Had a thunderbolt burst from
the cloudless heaven upon the heads of the boat's crew,
greater could not have been their astonishment, or its
destruction.  The appalling din was echoed from hill to




IN THE ARMY.                   145
hill, and rolled far and wide through the dark bottoms;
and it was such as to arrest in fear the fierce panther in
the act of leaping upon the now trembling deer.
But few guns from. the boat sent back defiance to the
murderous discharge; the shouts were but answered by
the death-cry and expiring groans.  The Indians rushed
upon their victims, and the war-club and tomahawk finished a work that had been so fearfully begun. They rioted
in blood; with horrid grimaces and convulsive action
they hewed into fragments the dumb, lifeless bodies;
they returned to their camp a moving group of dusky
demons, exulting in revenge, besmeared with blood, bearing aloft each a mangled portion of the dead-trophies
of brutal success.
Glass had thus far again escaped a cruel fate.  He
had gained the almost impervious concealment of drifted
and matted willows, and undergrowth, when the dread
ebullition of triumph and death announced to him the evil
he had escaped, and his still imminent peril. Like the
hunted fox, he doubled, he turned, ran or crawled, successively gaining the various concealments of the dense
bottom to increase his distance from the bloody scene.
And such was his success, that he had thought himself
nearly safe, when, at a slight opening, he was suddenly
faced by a foe. It was an Arickara scout. The discovery
was simultaneous, and so close were these wily woodsmen,
that but the one had scarce time to use a weapon intended
for a much greater distance. The deadly tomahawk of the
other was most readily substituted for the steeled arrow.
At the instant, it flew through the air, and the rifle was
discharged; neither could see the effect produced, but
they rushed into each other's grasp, either endeavoring
to crush his adversary by the shock of the onset. But
13




146        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
not so the result; the grappling fold of their arms was
so close, that they seemed as one animal; for a while,
doubtful was the struggle for the mastery; but Glass,
not wholly recovered from his wounds, was doomed to
sink beneath the superior strength of his adversary, by
an irresistible effort of which, he was rolled upon the
earth, the Indian above.  At this instant, the effect of
his unerring shot was developed. The Indian's last convulsive exertion, so successful, was accompanied by a
shout of victory; but dying on his lips, it had marked
his spirit's departure. It was as if his fierce'soul, sensible of approaching feebleness, had willingly expired in
the last desperate effort and the shout of triumph, with
which he would have ushered both their souls into the
presence of the " Great Spirit."
Redeemed unhoped from death, Glass beheld at his
feet his late enemy, not only dead, but already stiffening,
with hand instinctively touching the hilt of his knife.
Brief was his breathing-time; he was soon rendered
aware that the report of his rifle had been heard by the
Arickaras; that his escape was discovered; he had instinctively reloaded his gun, and he renewed a flight of
which his life was the stake. Concealment from his pursuers having become impossible, he used his utmost speed
in the hope of soon gaining a shelter of such a nature,
that he could end a race which could no longer be doubtful. Horses had been called into requisition.
We may suppose his hurried thoughts now turned upon
his late narrow escapes, which he feared were of little
avail; that the crowning scene was now at hand; or that
he prayed that That hand, so often interposed between
him and death, would again extend its protection.
Horses were of little aid in the thick bottom; but




IN THE ARMY.                  147
shouts, uttered at occasional glimpses of his form, announced to Glass that his pursuers were thus excited to
efforts that could not much longer fail of success; and
his thoughts were intensely turned upon some desperate
stratagem as his only hope, when a horseman suddenly
crossed his path. In his present state of mind, any Indian appeared to his eyes, a blood-seeking enemy. He
felt his death now certain, and was determined not to
fall single and unavenged; he was prepared for his last
mortal strife. But fortune, which apparently delighted
to reduce him to the narrowest straits, but to show her
freaks in almost miraculous reverses, had thrown in his
way a friend.  The horseman was a Mandan Indian on
a visit to the Arickaras. Attracted by the noise of the
pursuit, he had urged his horse's speed to witness the result; and, coming suddenly upon the object of it, he, at a
glance, became aware of the state of the case; a hundred
in his place, or he a hundred times to this once, though
of a friendly tribe, would have sacrificed the white; but
taking one of the sudden and unaccountable resolutions
of an Indian, or, perhaps, thinking his interposition of
almost impossible avail, at once entered into the excitement of the trial. Be this as it may, he motioned to
Glass to mount behind him; it was instantly complied
with,-when turning his horse's head, he urged it to its
greatest speed. Better ground was sooned gained; and
avoiding the Arickara camp, they that night entered the
Mandan village in triumph.
Here Glass was well received; for the announcement
of his presence was naturally accompanied by the recital
of his escapes, which nought but the greatest prowess
could have accomplished; and nothing is better calcu



148        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
lated effectually to engage the interest and admiration
of Indians.
And often are acts and events, which are set down to
the score of fortune or good luck, the result of superiority
in qualities immediately conducing to the result. Fortune
is not so far removed from the agency of man, that a
genius may not, by a happy effort, insure its favor and
apparently dictate to fate. A true knowledge of all of
Glass's career leaves a first impression on the mind, that
it is a rare combination of fortunate escapes, of lucky
accidents; but much of it may be explained as the more
natural result of physical strength, cool intrepidity, and
untiring patience.
After remaining a few days with the Mandans, Glass,
nothing daunted by his past dangers, and equally regardless of new ones, resumed alone and on foot, his journey
up the Missouri.  The Mandan village is on the left or
the northeast bank of the river; it was on the same side
he commenced his journey, intending to leave the Missouri at the mouth of the Yellow Stone, about three
hundred miles higher up; his object in following watercourses, being to meet with white men, and to run no risk
of missing the trapping party under Major Henry, he
was so anxious to regain.
His arms were now a rifle, small axe, and the ever
necessary knife; his dress, a blanket capote, perhaps a
flannel shirt, leather leggins and moccasins and a fur
cap: he was, in addition, equipped with a blanket, spare
moccasins, and a small kettle, composing a bundle suspended on his back.  His route lay through a country
infested with the Blackfeet Indians.  The Blackfeet
muster eight or ten thousand warriors; they live north
of this part of the Missouri, and extend west to the




IN  THE ARMY.                 149
mountains; and they are frequently upon the Yellow
Stone. To their east live the Assinaboines, Mandans,
and Minatarees; to the south the Crows and Sioux; and
north and west the Mountain or British Indians. With
these tribes they wage perpetual war; and to the whites,
incited by British traders, they have been more dangerous than any other Indians. It was through the grounds
of this people that Glass had to make his solitary way.
The country on the Missouri, from the L'eau qui-court
up, is nearly bare of timber; the river bottoms are narrow, and on but one -side at a time, changing at intervals
of twenty or thirty miles, and sometimes there are none
at all, the ground being generally high bluff prairies.
This open, bare country is at times, as far as vision extends, in every direction blackened with buffalo; it is
within bounds to say, that a hundred thousand may be
seen at a glance.' One of these vast herds, all taking
the same course to cross the Missouri, detained Glass for
two days, declining the perilous attempt to penetrate a
mass, which, when in quick motion, is as irresistible as
the waves of the ocean.
In two weeks he reached the mouth of the Yellow
Stone, having met neither white manior Indian; here
he crossed the Missouri on a raft made of two logs tied
together with bark, and continued his journey up the
Yellow Stone. This is a wide and shallow stream, emptying into the Missouri from the south; it is even more
muddy and rapid than the latter river, to which it is
believed to have considerable agency in imparting these
qualities.
It was more than three hundred miles to the forks of
the river, nearer than which he could scarcely hope to
meet with any of the party, since it had set in very cold,
13*




150        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
which would cause the small detachment of trappers to
be drawn into that point, where he knew they were to
winter. Right weary did he become of his journey, inured as he was to the toils and dangers which surrounded
him. Almost in despair, and having at times nearly resolved to retrace his steps and winter with some of the
most friendly Indians, one morning in December he was
overjoyed to discover a hunting party of white men. On
reaching them, long was it before they could make up
their minds to believe their eyes; to believe that it was
the same Glass before them, whom they left, as they
thought, dying of wounds, and whose expected death was
related to them by two witnesses. It was to them a mystery; and belief of the act of black treachery, which
could only explain a part of it, was slow in being enforced upon their minds.  Overwhelmed with questions
or demands of explanation, it was long before he could
ascertain from them in return, that the party had rendezvoused for winter at the Forks, which was but a few
miles distant; that Fitzgerald was not there, having deserted; and that the youth was still one of the expedition.
Fiercely excited with conflicting feelings,-the escape
of the main object of his just revenge,-chiefly for which
he had made so long a pilgrimage,-and the certainty of
soon facing the accomplice of his crime, Glass hastened
to enter the encampment.
Nearly the first person he met, was the unfortunate
and guilty young man; and it so happened they came
upon each other suddenly. All attempt must fail to describe the effect of his appearance upon the youth. Had
he awoke from a deep sleep in the embrace of a grizzly
bear, or been confronted at noonday by the threatening
ghost (and such he believed of him) of a deeply injured




IN THE ARMY.                  151
enemy, greater could not have been his fear. He stood
without power of any motion; his eyes rolled wildly in
their sockets; his teeth chattered, and a clammy sweat
rose upon his ashy features. Glass was unprepared for
such a spectacle; and well was it calculated to create
pity; for some moments he could not find words, much
less the act of his purpose. He leaned upon his rifle;
his thoughts took a sudden turn; the more guilty object
of his revenge had escaped; the pitiful being before him
was perhaps but the unwilling and over-persuaded accomplice of his much elder companion;-these, and other
thoughts crowded upon his mind, and he determined upon
the revenge which sinks deepest upon minds not wholly
depraved, and of which the magnanimous are alone capaable; he determined to spare his life.
With dignity and severity, but great feeling, he thus
addressed the petrified youth, who but expected immediate
death: "Young man, it is Glass that is before you; the
same that, not content with leaving, you thought, to a
cruel death upon the prairie, you robbed, helpless as he
was, of his rifle, his knife, of all with which he could hope
to defend, or save himself from famishing in the desert.
In case I had died, you left me to a despair worse than
death, with no being to close my eyes. I swore an oath
that I would be revenged on you, and the wretch who was
with you; and I ever thought to have kept it. For this
meeting I have made a long journey. But I cannot take
your life; I see you repent; you have nothing to fear
from me; go-you are free-for your youth I forgive
you."  But he remained mute and motionless; his reprieve, or rather pardon, for such it must be considered
in a country where the law has never reached, could
scarcely allay the awe and fear of an upbraiding con



152        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
science.  He was taken off by some of the witnesses of
the scene, in whose breasts pity had begun to take the
place of wonder and resentment.
Glass was welcomed as one recovered from the dead;
one whose memory-such is our lot-had already been
swept far upon the gulf of oblivion. His services, ever
highly appreciated, were again engaged in the company,
where we leave him, employed as the rest, in the sole
labors of supplying provisions, and of self-defence from
the extreme coldness of the winter. Only adding, that
his determination of revenge upon the more worthy object of punishment from his hands, far from being abated,
was rather confirmed; and that, what he considered a
sacred duty to himself, though postponed to a more convenient season, was still nourished as a ruling passion.
CHAPTER XXI.
THE varieties of human character, though infinite, yield
to a grand division of the race into two classes,-those
with much and those with little sensibility.  It is impossible to tell which is the more fortunate organization:
the one class chafes and frets at all it sees wrong, and
experiences positive pain at every exhibition of selfishness, cruelty, or turpitude; but, with a lively perception
of every natural or moral beauty, it has various capacities
for pleasure and enjoyment.  The other class is seldom
troubled with emotions of any kind, and passes through
life in a routine of sensual pleasures and animal pains.
This mental and moral torpor I eschew, and prefer to




IN  THE ARMY.                  153
hold intercourse with nature; to walk forth alone-nay,
friend reader, if you are in the mood, bear me company.
Let us take a stroll together this sunny afternoon;'tis
glorious October, that, with its gorgeous mantle of purple
and of gold, sheds a " dying glory" on the parting year.
Here is a deer-path through the hazel thicket: see how
generously unfolded are the ripe nuts! Stop-listen a
moment how the monotone of that gurgling waterfall
harmonizes with the repose of nature! Here it is. Let
us cross by that moss-grown log. We have no longer a
path, but we will go up this noble hill; it is a natural
park, and often graced by antlered buck, but in the
majesty of freedom.  Here we are out of sight of the
"improvements" of man; so let us sit on this velvet
moss; mind not the rustling lizard, it is harmless. What
a glorious solitude is here! Before us is " a prairie-sea,
all isled with rock and wood;" and beyond, like an ocean
shore, a vast bluff, rocky and forest-crowned. And yonder
is a glimpse of the river, mighty in repose; a zephyr
hovering on its bosom sports with its tiny waves, which,
dancing, reflect the dazzling light through those red
and golden leaves. But the charm over all is a perfect
REPOSE. Even the winds, whispering anon, seem to have
folded their wings: and see yon leaf, in its "dying fall"
-if there be a poetry of motion, behold its gently
circling descent! That gray squirrel detached it.  And
look, he seems to slumber. Nature is taking a sunny
sleep.
Oh, there is an invisible, unknown, mental link, connecting all sweet, and calm, and beautiful things. Who
can view such a scene without hearing a natural music,
or an echo of some long-forgotten tone, which thrilled
the heart, without recalling the few blissful moments which




154        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
shed a secret, selfish joy o'er the dreary void of life-the
first conception of love-its tone from beauty and young
innocence-the awakening from some sweet sleep to the
sound of soft music, which was deemed to be not of earth.
Behold the thin blue smoke floating above those distant
tree tops! It is the type of the little present, hovering
between the great past and the mighty future. What!
you too are asleep? Unkind! But'tis well. Alone let
me knock at the doors of old Time, and challenge the
shades beyond. The spell is potent. I see dim figures,
as in a dream; but they assume the forms of palpable and
warm existence.  They are paler than the Indian, but
are not white. They seem to worship at a mighty altar,
and it bears the emblems of war.  How strange is all!
Unknown animals are there, crouching among the multitude; beneath the white drapery of a vast pavilion, with
flowing red streamers, the grave elders are seated in
council.  See, a noble youth arises; he seems'to speak:
he addresses the fathers.  How graceful! how animated!
His robe falls back, and he shakes aloft his arm. His is
a voice for war: for behold that eager and trembling
maiden! She drinks those flowing tones, inspired perhaps
by thoughts of her. Love and ambition have carried him
away.  His spirit seems caught by the multitude.'Tis
ever so. Genius and enthusiasm possess a master-key to
all hearts. The elders wave their arms, and seem to deprecate the rashness of impulse; but in vain; there are
times when it is prudent to be rash, and they must lead
or follow; for all seem resolved, and the assembly breaks
up.
But lo, a change! They go forth to war.  Song and
shout uncouth, and strange forgotten instruments fill the
air. Huge animals shake their heads, and bellow to the




IN  THE ARMY.                  155
din of rattling arms. There is a band of horsemen, with
shield and spear, and waving streamers: they seem clothed
in white cotton mail. The orator is there, in highest
command.  His countenance now is filled with thought,
and proud and stern resolve. See the mighty host slowly
disappear, winding among the far hills.
Another change! Behold a vast multitude, "vast beyond compare," with signs of mingled mourning and lofty
triumph. All bear loads of earth, and deposit them on
that beautiful spot. How fast it grows. It has become
a mighty mound. And now they disappear.  But one,
of all, is left. The same maiden; her face is spread with
pallid woe; she weeps, and will never be consoled, till her
ashes mingle with that monument of victory and of death
-the tomb of her lost idol.
" As swim
O'er autumn skies the fleets of shattered cloud,
So swam these scenes and passed."
What a moral was there! Not the air-built castles of
the hopeful and ambitious of the extinct race have fallen
into more immemorial oblivion than have their proudest
and soberest realities. Their mountain tombs are their
only monuments.
But the charm of this quiet existence, which had extended through several summers, was rudely broken.
Even then the holy calm of nature was disturbed by the
noisy bellowings of steam, which I had strangely imagined
those of living monsters; and its echoes among the hills
around me had a power to banish the sylvan ministers to
my solitude. I felt my Arcadian dreams dispelled forever. I beheld the conquering struggle of man with the
mighty Missouri, and felt that the type of a more active,




156        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
troublous existence, in which the world demanded the
performance of my part, was before me.
Soon all was activity and stirring preparation. Half
of us were to go to another frontier, where alarms and
bloodshed had aroused every element of commotion. But
I was not included in the call. Nevertheless, I had felt
that I was to go.
CHAPTER XXII.
A YEAR before-in 1831-there had been a military
expedition to the Upper Mississippi, to remove forcibly
the Sacs and Foxes from their old country in Illinois
(their birthright, which they had sold for a mess of pottage): and now again, as if irresistibly and fatally attracted to the homes of their youth and the graves of
their fathers, they had revisited, but peaceably, the forbidden land east of the Mississippi.  The militia (that
prosopopoeia of weakness, waste, and confusion) had been
called out; about three hundred, well mounted, had left
an encampment on Rock River-it is said in a kind of
frolic-under a Colonel S.; they came upon a few quiet
and inoffensive Indians, and murdered several of them in
cold blood; they afterward came in contact with a large
body which they attacked; they were repulsed, and retreated at speed in utter confusion; sixteen Indians pursued them many miles, and speared eleven of their number;
the rest, throwing away their saddlebags and flying before
this force, did not draw rein for about forty miles: they
reported that they had had a bloody battle with 1500
warriors! After bringing on the war in this style, the
militia under Brigadier Whiteside retired to their homes.




IN THE ARMY.                   157
To Brigadier-General Atkinson of the army, had then
been assigned the conduct of the war, and the organization of an army of volunteers to co-operate with his
regulars; he had established his head-quarters and rendezvous near the head of navigation of the Illinois
River; and had sent an order for two of the four companies at Fort Leavenworth to join him there, with a view
to their junction with six other companies of the same
regiment then in camp on Rock River.
The two named companies of'our battalion were ordered
to embark as soon as possible. Believing that the time
had come when gunpowder would be burned, I offered my
services as a volunteer; and they were accepted.
We departed within twenty-four hours after the arrival
of the steamboat, and in forty-nine more, were in St.
Louis, taking on board arms and provisions: the next
day we departed for the Illinois, and, in two more, disembarked at Gen. A.'s encampment at the rapids.
It is these rapid and exciting changes, with their uncertainties and hopeful anticipations, and these sudden
and unexpected meetings with old friends and companions,
under novel and enlivening circumstances, that lend a
seductive attraction to the service, even in a time of
peace: and, to that happy law of our natures which
causes us to forget pain, and to remember and dwell on
the bright points of the past, we doubtless owe those
regrets and repinings which are said generally to haunt
the minds of officers who resign their commissions for
other pursuits.
~However eligible and pleasant had been my situation
at Fort Leavenworth, a seclusion of two and a half years
had produced a longing for the unseen,-a desire for
change; and what had not five days brought forth?  A
14




158        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
visit to a city,-the rapid motion of nine hundred miles,
-and, contrasted with our former quiet, the bustle of a
camp of several thousands of men on the eve of a campaign; —and above all, the unexpected meeting under
these exciting circumstances, with many very dear and
long absent friends! Those five days,-and above all,
that last evening of my arrival, were worth years of humdrum existence:-over the long interval of years,-over
the chaos of events, it comes back warm and bright with
a pleasure which causes me to linger as I write 
Next morning I was in the midst of the multitude of
citizen volunteers, who were as active as a swarming hive;
catching horses, electioneering, drawing rations, asking
questions, shooting at marks, electing officers, mustering
in, issuing orders, disobeying orders, galloping about,
" cussing and discussing" the war, and the rumors thereof.
Here was a fine harvest for the humorous;-and one
might have passed the day in giving quizzical answers to
absurd questions; —there was no immunity; the General
in his tent could not escape the intrusion of these raw
fellows, who had no more idea of the first principles of
military respect and subordination, than they had of
Frederick's campaigns.  "Are you Colonel of the artillery?" asked one of them of Lieutenant A., who was
acting ordnance-officer.  "No! I'm  commander of it."
"Beg your pardon, General."
There was an unfortunate circumstance attending the
organization and services of the Illinois militia;-important elections were pending; all candidates of course took
the field, and unfortunately were candidates there; and
in the execution of their duties, the enforcing of disagreeable regulations and constraints, were the subjects of this
mistaken extrinsic influence.  The strict and impartial




IN  THE ARMY.                  159
performance of duty, is the basis of all military popularity.
A remarkable exception to the general censure, was
the brave and indefatigable Colonel E., who, stern, exacting, and even harsh when it was necessary to be so,
was a model of energy and endurance:-~happily I can
add, that he soon after received the highest of those civic
honors, which so many aspired to: he was elected a
senator in Congress.
My services as a volunteer were in the market; and I
was offered the appointment of aid-de-camp to one of the
three militia brigadiers, with the somewhat tempting rank
of major; I did not fancy the connection: but I lent my
unavailing assistance to one of his staff, who spent
several days in abortive attempts to produce a morning
report: he was then furloughed for the duration of the
campaign (and doubtless has been well paid for his ardent
services).
The organization of the volunteers was painfully slow,
notwithstanding daily information of Indian ravages.
But at last, on the 19th of June, one brigade was reported ready for service: it was very complete-on paper
-for they even had paymasters and their mates;-it
being well understood that they would never handle any
but their own pay. The same day, this brigade and our
two companies of infantry, marched with a provision
train for Dixon's Ferry on Rock River: we were commanded by the gallant old General Brady; who had come
as a volunteer, and was soon after assigned to the command of a division.  We passed over a fine country of
woods and prairie interspersed; but the soil was rich and
soft; and our progress with heavy laden wagons was
tedious.




160        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
The volunteers on this short march, gave us a fine
specimen of what was to be expected of their services.
They had been ordered to take on their horses some
twelve or fifteen days' rations; on the second morning's
march they raised the cry of "Indians! Indians!" when
several hundreds without orders, or the least order, galloped out of the column, and scattered at full speed over
the prairies;-on joining again several miles beyond, it
appeared that they had all thrown away the incumbrance
of provisions: it was said to have been a manoeuvre for
that object. We arrived at Dixon's June 23d. Here we
found entrenched on the north side of the river, six companies of the 6th, four of the 1st, and two of the 5th
infantry: the volunteers encamped on the south side, and
we joined our regiment: I then received a staff appointment.
Here was another delightful meeting with my own
regiment, and old 1st infantry companions at Jefferson
Barracks; though delay was irksome, it was to me a delightful camp.
Rock River, here about one hundred yards wide and
not fordable, is a beautiful stream; its glassy waters glide
over white sand and pebbles; its rich and verdant banks
present every variety of natural beauty; savannas, slopes,
gentle hill and rocky bluff, prairie and grove, presented
a varied picture, beyond all imitation or improvement of
art.
It was not strange that such a country, bound to the
very heartstrings of the Indian by all native associations,
and all the pleasures of his free, sporting, and untrammelled life, should possess for him fatal attractions; fatal,
when the dollar and cent interests of the unsympathizing




IN TIlE  ARMY.                 161
whites demand the letter of the hard-driven, if not fraudulent bargain.
This was the point of final arrangements for the campaign; five days after us, arrived Alexander's 2d brigade,
which encamped with the 1st on the opposite side of the
river; the next day Gen. A., with his staff, and Henry's
3d brigade also, arrived.
The night after this junction, about nine o'clock, a
heavy and continuous discharge of firearms took place in
the militia camp; and soon after its commencement the
horses broke loose, and more than a thousand of them/
ran scampering over the prairie hills. The roar of the
firearms, and the flashes of flame which they gave out in
the darkness, and which lighted up the river between us
-the noisy rush of the horses over the hills-and the
other adjuncts to the scene, which any one may well
imagine, made us believe, as we hurried together, that the
devil was certainly let loose amongst our militia friends.
The firing was redoubled and became the regular discharges of battalions; the General, astonished and uneasy, despatched a company of regulars in a Mackinaw
boat to ascertain the cause; the officers on reaching the
camp witnessed a singular scene; a whole brigade was
regularly paraded and firing in the air as regularly as
they knew how, while their General, mounted on a tall
stump, was endeavoring to argue them  out of it; but
their perseverance was not more extraordinary than their
commencement; and neither was ever explained: their
General finally damned them to all posterity, and resigned
his commission in violent disgust. The firing came to an
end, as all things must.
The next day was spent in hunting horses: many of
which were injured by rushing in the darkness against
14I




162        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Dixon's fence. The Brigadier was induced to resume the
exercise of his commission.
About this time, Galena was the scene of some extravagant proceedings; it was much exposed, and might with
little difficulty have been captured and destroyed by the
Indians, had they possessed a little more enterprise and
daring; the inhabitants present were in a state of complete panic, and the most unbridled disorder; martial law
was declared by the notorious Col. S., or one of the companions of his Hegira: but it may be presumed that the
martial law entered as little as the civil, into their crude
conceptions of order.  They owed their safety to the
timid inaction of their enemy.
Brigadier-General Henry having marched north to form
a junction with Col. Dodge, who had raised a mounted
battalion of the miners, the 1st and part of the 2d division of the army were put in march before the end of
June, and ascended the left bank of Rock River. A day
or two after, we passed the ground of Stillman's defeat
and race; we saw parts of the scattered garments of the
slain; in front of the creek on which the Indians had been
posted, the ground was boggy; a circumstance peculiarly
unfavorable to the action of horsemen; but militia, or
Western and Southern militia, though they never become
cavalry, will never turn out, it would seem, otherwise than
mounted.  The horse is an incumbrance in warfare, unless his rider is ready and skilful in the use of the sabre.
The army marched northward about a week over a fine
prairie country, intersected by many bold streams, skirted
with woods; crossing many well-worn old Indian trails,
and passing the ruins of several ancient villages; seeking,
I suppose, the fastnesses of the enemy, without any very
definite information of his actual situation; although the




IN  THE ARMY.                  163
mounted men were scattered far and wide by the General,
in efforts to make discoveries.
At one time, indeed, some of the staff seemed to believe that they knew the exact position of the enemy;
and on the information of certain guides, actually sketched
a map of his stronghold, intrenched among swamps and
morasses, the approach through which marvellously resembled the schoolboy puzzle of the walls of Troy.
About the 9th of July, at the noonday halt, the
General called an informal council of war; having received information that Black Hawk and his warriors
were strongly posted some eight or nine miles in our
front; he proposed, we understood, this question: whether
the army should then advance in the expectation of arriving much fatigued before the enemy, and near nightfall; or encamp, and advance to the attack very early
next morning?
The army advanced; and performed a march of near
ten miles, without passing water on the prairies; the sun
was fast sinking, when we approached an extensive wood:
and so soon as the advance had struck it, we heard and
saw an irregular discharge of fire-arms; our pack-horses
were immediately picketed in a body, and left under a
guard; and the infantry hastened to advance in column,
while we all were in the very pleasant belief that we were
marching into a decisive combat: never were troops in
better spirits, when it is considered that a minute before
many seemed exhausted by fatigue and thirst;-on entering
the woods under these circumstances, it became known that
the fire had proceeded from a body of irregulars-chiefly
Indians, in front of whom  a deer had run a kind of
gauntlet. Every circumstance had conspired to assure
us of an approaching action; and slowly and unwillingly




164        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
were all convinced of the truth; so that in the dispositions
for the night-camp-which was established very soon
after near a pond-some, in the blind obedience which
discipline exacts of the most eager, only recognized the
preparations for battle; and when I assigned to a company
commander of the 6th his camp-ground, he inquired of
me the position of the enemy!
We were afterwards strongly confirmed in a belief then
held, that the Sacs and Foxes were that night encamped
within two or three miles of us: in fact, two of us on this
occasion offered our services to the General, to proceed
on foot and endeavor to discover his position; but it was
not approved of.
In this camp one of the militia sentinels was so
nervously vigilant as to shoot a friend. This is not a
very uncommon occurrence among them; and they are
supposed by some ill-natured persons to be generally more
dangerous to their friends than to their enemies.
Being near the enemy, and in the vicinity of his favorite retreats, the infantry next day moved to better position, which was near at hand, and the volunteers were
detached in force in different directions to seek him: but
they met with no success.
The day after, the army marched by Lake Koshkonong,
and took up a strong position beyond on the bank of
Clearwater Creek, not far from  its junction with Rock
River.  Opposite was a very extensive and almost impenetrable tamarisk swamp: nevertheless a substantial
bridge was commenced next morning; and evidently
under the observation of the Indians, for two of our men
were wounded.
Riding that day alone in a wood, a little distance in




IN  THE ARMY.                  165
advance of a column, my discipline was sorely tried; a
noble buck approached me and stood several moments
within pistol-shot; my hand, almost before I knew it, had
grasped a holster pistol; but I resisted the temptation,
only to hear, immediately after, some of the irregulars
popping away at him as he ran past.
One day was spent in camp on Clear Creek; but the
bridge was not quite finished, when the next morning the
march was resumed; our course was up the Clearwater,
as near as swamps, bogs, and some very difficult miry
branches would permit.  When these occur in a low
prairie they require much labor to render them passable:
if not bridged, the banks are dug, and much brush and
long grass deposited; over these trembling causeways,
each horse seems to consider his passage an adventure;
and many a rider, too; their awkward mishaps repay in
amusement the pioneers for their extra work; the streams
are very deep, with abrupt quicksand banks, covered to
the verge with sod. One of them I attempted to leap;
but mistook for my point of departure, a tuft of grass for
a substantial sod, and of course tumbled headlong in. I
then, wet as I was, committed a double imprudence; first,
in riding at a very slow pace-which was no exercise at
all; and then, on getting into my tent, changing all my
clothes; the consequence was a very violent cold; —almost the only one I ever took in camp.
I observed to-day a fair specimen of the great advantages which the front holds over the rear of a column
of march; we passed some remarkable springs; —little
grassy mounds in a savanna; the first comers drank of
crystal and very cold water bubbling over the rim of
something very like an immense emerald bowl; but before
the last arrived, they had become mere mud-holes.




166.       SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
The whole march of some twelve miles was in view ot
the tamarisk swamp.  Our camp was pitched on a slight
elevation near the Clearwater.  A council of general
officers was called, and it was decided not to cross and
penetrate the swamp at this point; nor to move further
in this direction.
Accordingly, on the following day, a countermarch was
made; and the army retracing its steps, passed beyond
the mouth of Clearwater, and encamped on the shore of
Lake Koshkonong, which is an enlargement of Rock
River.
The provisions of the army were very nearly exhausted,
and the consequence was a temporary suspension of operations, until a further supply could be drawn from the
nearest depot; this was Fort Winnebago, distant about
sixty miles.  The division of mounted volunteers was
ordered to march thither and draw fifteen days' rations,
which they were to transport on their horses: whilst a
convoy was to be despatched to our camp.
A slight breastwork was thrown up round this camp;
and the troops were also employed in building two blockhouses, and a connecting picket-work to serve for a depot.
I do not attempt to give more than a mere sketch of the
actual operations of this campaign: for, not having been
on the General's staff, I was not "in the secrets of the
cabinet:" I did not harass myself in seeking by crossquestions, scraps -of intelligence; or, in eternally discussing and criticising operations founded on intelligence and
exigencies of which the critics were generally in profound
ignorance; or, in volunteering advice to any of supposed
influence who would listen, as some one or a few officers
did, and seemed to suffer as much uneasiness as if they
had borne a load of responsibility equal to that with which




IN THE ARMY.                   167
many adverse circumstances seemed to overload our commanding General.
It was, however, impossible to mistake the causes of
this delay, when a prudent General and an able staff were
evidently blameless. It was generally reported, and not
contradicted, that the volunteers had been improvident
and wasteful to the degree of leaving in certain camps
rations that had been issued, by the barrel in unbroken
bulk! And again, the militia convoys were incredibly
timid and unmanageable; provision trains could not be
got on; one was abandoned by guard and drivers, within
two or three miles of our position here, in consequence of
their having imagined that they had seen an Indian or
two: thus were good plans thwarted in despite of the
great exertions of the quarter-master department; which
was indebted to the militia for an active and energetic
head.
Whilst the infantry lay here under these circumstances,
I well remember reading in a National Intelligencerwhich some express-man had brought to camp-a speech
made by a Western senator, who branded the regular
army as the "sweepings of cities," &c. &c., and extolled
the frontier men-militia-rangers-(our friends, the
volunteers), as infinitely superior; men who would be
"here to-night, and to-morrow fifty miles off " who would
"subsist themselves," &c. Verily, your politician excels
in humbug!




168        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
CHAPTER XXIII.
AFTER a delay of four or five days in camp on Lake
Koshkonong,-waiting as before stated for a supply of
provisions,-and for the mounted volunteers to supply
themselves at Fort Winnebago,-a provision train arrived
under the conduct of the indefatigable Quarter-mastergeneral March, and we were joined by one brigade of the
militia.  Next morning the army marched once morein a heavy rain-over the same ground of its former
march and countermarch. At night we had not advanced
so far as on the first occasion, and we were forced to encamp on a piece of ground of slight elevation-a sort of
island-amid the creeks and their swampy and overflowed
bottoms. We were soaked to the skin; the rain still fell,
-and fuel was scarce: I was in a small tent with the
commanding officer, in rear of one of the regiments
composing one front of the encampment; it was late and
very dark; I had fallen asleep on my blanket. Perhaps
soon after, I was aroused by a rushing, rumbling sound,
as of an earthquake,-and quite as quickly as the consciousness of the dangerous cause, found myself standing
astride our little fire, with sword and cocked pistol in
hand; and saw,-hemming us in on all sides-the glaring
eyeballs and arched necks of hundreds of horses, wild
and trembling with excitement, and crouched almost in
act of dashing over us; I stood at desperate bay, with
finger on trigger: it was indeed a moment of great peril,
-but it was passed in safety; and the horses became instantly calmer as they heard the voices of their masters;
many of whom came boldly among them.  They had




IN  THE ARMY.                  169
been picketed in the other end of an inclosed parallelogram;-Indian yells had been heard, when they took
fright, and rushed in the direction of our regiment, which,
at the first alarm, had formed their line,-and as they
came thundering on, had faced inward among their fires,
which, glittering on their arms, had served to arrest their
course, which had not acquired its full momentum; they
were thus thrown round our tent, which, mistaken for a
more solid barrier, they had managed to avoid in their
first career, and we were saved. It was the custom in
like cases to spring to a wagon or tree; neither was near us
on this night: but an officer told me that he had sprung up
one of the latter just in time to save himself, as the horses
rushed under him and against his legs as they hung down.
Next morning many horses were missing, and others
injured. In the course of the night, an express, which
had pushed through under its cover from the depot at
Koshkonong, brought to the General important information; and a second countermarch was ordered at daydawn. The General had been informed that in returning
from Fort Winnebago, Brigadier Henry, in command of
his brigade, and Dodge's mounted battalion, had discovered the fresh trail of the whole body of the Sacs and
Foxes moving northward, and had marched in pursuit.
This day we passed Fort Koshkonong, in a cold and
beating rain, and forded Rock River below the lake,-it
was nearly swimming,-and half dead with cold and
fatigue, encamped on the right bank.
This encamping after a weary march,-particularly in
a rain, or when it is late,-is the most trying part of a
soldier's life; the day's labors would seem but then
commenced; every earthly comfort has to be worked for,
as much as if they had never been obtained before; and
15




170        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
one's labors are retarded, and depend upon the will and
motions of others;-details are to be furnished; guards
mounted; camps laid out; baggage unloaded,-and how
often is it to be waited for!-delaying everything; tents
are to be pitched; wood to be cut; water to be brought,
frequently from a great distance; rations to be distributed, then cooked; arms to be cleaned; inspections
made; but, above all,-with cavalry,-forage to be procured, issued, and fed; and horses to be groomed, and
watered often in almost inaccessible places.
After urging my poor horse over all kinds of obstacles
-assigning their ground to the companies-communicating orders to their commanders, and hearing the snarls
of an occasional grumbler-I had still before me the
duties of the regimental and grand guard parades. What
wealth is there in a cheerful spirit! A good soldier
never grumbles (if he can help it); —when his rights are
invaded, he pursues the most quiet, firm, and effectual
mode of redress.
Next forenoon we met expresses, who bore the news of
an action on the banks of the Wisconsin, where the enemy
was overtaken, and said to have been roughly handled;
a gallant fight it was represented to have been. That
evening we formed a junction with the brigade and battalion of spies, at the Blue Mounds; whither they had
retired, after their glorious victory, to meet us. It would
be difficult to give a full idea of the proud, but modest
complacency with which they all agreed-for they must
tell the truth-in extolling the intrepidity and coolness
exhibited in the battle; how they had, for example, cried
out in the midst of it, " Come forward, boys, and draw
your ponies!" by which they had playfully expressed
their intention of appropriating to themselves those little




IN THE ARMY.                   171
animals; (which the Indians found so useful that we
could not learn they had.been persuaded actually to part
with any of them.) " Wisconsin Heights" fairly promised
to prove a watchword, before which " Tippecanoe," &c.,
might hang its head;-" Pity it was, we had not been
there; —but they could not help it,-how could they, if
the Sacs would allow themselves to be used up?"
After all their boasting, the simple fact was, that Black
Hawk, although encumbered with the women, children,
and baggage of his whole band, covering himself by a
small party, had accomplished that most difficult of military operations,-to wit, the passage of a river,-in the
presence of three regiments of American volunteers!
And they were now gone-the victors could not tell us
whither.
The next day the whole army marched to resume the
pursuit and cross the Wisconsin; it encamped at night
at Helena, on the left bank of the river. Here a delay
of a day or two occurred; arising from the extreme difficulties encountered by the commissariat of so large a
force in an uncultivated country; and one very deficient
in the means of transportation; and the only calculations
that could be made as to the next operations were, that
they would be in an almost impassable wilderness!
Between Rock and Wisconsin Rivers we marched amid
the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld; a varying
succession of prairie and forest; of hill, vale, and mound,
so various in form, abrupt yet smooth and green, that it
might be imagined the sudden petrifaction of an ocean
storm. Again, the soft face of gentle slopes, with groves
and trees in the semblance of parks and orchards, and
little prairie fields, presented the picturesque and peace



172        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
ful appearance of a highly cultivated district, whence the
dwellings of man alone had unaccountably disappeared.
On a nearer approach to the Wisconsin River there
was more wildness and sublimity; we marched along
lofty and narrow ridges and beheld everywhere broken
and jagged peaks-dark and profound abysses (bearing
evident traces of volcanic action)-vast rocks disjointed
and scattered;all seemingly in the confusion of some
great catastrophe.  But amid this sterile grandeur, we
caught glimpses of green and sunny landscape, which
seemed warmed and brightened by the effects of contrast.
Descending as we approach the river, we followed a remarkable prairie valley, straight, level, with steep green
sides or banks, presenting an extraordinary uniformity
for five or six miles. Again, very near the river, we saw
many isolated sugar-loaf hills, towering several hundred
feet in the air; covered with grass; dotted with pines,
tnd showing in places their rocky structure. Their summits commanded noble views; the bright and swift river
winding among rugged mountains; and beyond, far away,
its wide savannas and noble forests; all, in this wild and
scarce explored region, filled our minds with the exciting
ideas of the discovery of a new country, which, in its
summer dress, seemed to greet our approach with smiles.
Such is the scenery of the valley of the Wisconsin,
from which it was our ungracious errand to drive the original possessors, who, like spectres haunting the scenes
of their nativity and warm attachment, were destined to
atone in blood for their only fault or misfortune, that
they loved not wisely but too well.
A  post was established at Helena; and the army
crossed July 28th, and marched in a northern direction,
in the expectation, doubtless, of soon falling upon traces




IN THE ARMY.                   173
of the retreating enemy. If so, they were soon realized;
for we were still in the low grounds of the river, when,
being with the van, I witnessed the discovery of the trail,
which led to a singular and amusing little scene;-suddenly I saw Colonel D.,-who was riding in advance
with the General,-draw his sword and spur forward with
great animation, riding hither thither-gazing on the
ground, and uttering unintelligible exclamations;-the
General, though evidently quite ignorant of the inspiring
cause of this eccentric proceeding, in a kind of blind sympathy, galloped after the Colonel, following him quite
closely in his course, which became a series of circles,
narrowing down to a point, where, sure enough, was the
plain fresh trail of the whole tribe. Imagine a pointer
circling in search of the hole of a ground-squirrel with
a young one following, nose to tail, in an attempt at imitation, and then imagine them metamorphosed into horses,
and on their backs,-of one, a portly and grave Colonel
sword in hand-and of the other, a dignified and still
more portly General!
The column here turned to the left, following the new
course, which led down the prairie bottom of the river.
We had now a good laugh on one of the General's staff
(a fine fellow and a great favorite he was!) who, absorbed
in geological researches, or in search of the picturesque,
had ridden far in advance, and continuing the course
which we had first taken, passed without knowing it, so
large a trail (which we were seeking); and was then to
be seen a mile or two off, on the summit of one of the
singular conical hills of this country.
15*




174        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
CIAPTER  XXIV.
Now followed a march over a country which we found
to present almost insuperable difficulties to the passage of
an army; a march which was perhaps as trying to the
perseverance and endurance of the troops, as some we
read of as remarkable before and during the Revolutionary
War, though, doubtless, surpassed in these respects by
some performed by that "Hannibal of the West," General George Rogers Clarke. It was through a district said
to have been unexplored by whites; and certainly remarkable for a combination or juxtaposition of the primitive,
alluvious, and other formations, almost unheard of in
geology. It lies between the Wisconsin, Pine, and Kickapoo Rivers; and was said to have been entered by Black
Hawk in the belief that the army could not follow him;
if so, he paid dearly for his mistake.
All but provisions and baggage of the first necessity, being left with every wheeled carriage, and taking, as it were,
a temporary farewell of the sun and his cheerful light,
we forced our way into the bramble and thicket of this
gloomy forest.  We followed the narrow trails made by
the Indians through undergrowth which could only be
passed by patient and painful effort. The first day we
forded Pine River, all but swimming for horses, and in
the face of such other obstacles that an ambush must
have led to great disaster. Afterwards for several days
we toiled over a seemingly endless succession of lofty
hills, so precipitous, that it was frequently necessary to
use the hands to assist the feet. After ascending such a
hill, perhaps three hundred feet in height, we would find




IN  THE ARMY.                  175
ourselves on the verge of an equally abrupt descent; then
a valley from a quarter to a half mile wide, to the foot of
the next hill; but in the valley we invariably found a
bog, and a miry creek; half the army as pioneers would
then, with axe, hatchet, and spade, labor at causeway and
bridge; over which horses and mules struggled, making
desperate but not always effectual efforts to extricate
themselves.
At night our encampments, or places of rest, were on
all manner of ground, and in every shape; fortunate the
individual who found-if any did-a spot not too steep
or rugged to lie on with comfort;-and the nights were
very cold, though midsummer; once there was a frost.
I have not mentioned the flankers;-so necessary when
the column was lengthened out, as if in a forty-mile defile;
-their obstacles, which the instinct of the Indian avoided
in making the trail, I will not enlarge upon.
What a situation-to which there seemed no end-for
an army! How differently considered by the General and
the subordinates who could laugh at personal difficulties
and dangers; and who, if life even were endangered,
were involved in no harassing responsibility, threatening
reputation and honor!
How unenviable is rank and power thus (in our Indian
wars) continually struggling against obstacles and the
oppressive sense of responsibility! The exalted consciousness of well-used power, warming and ennobling the mind,
is denied him; or is overpowered and depressed by a
struggle against disheartening difficulties, which he knows
his government and his fellow-citizens will not, and cannot appreciate. Even the pomp and circumstance of arms,
-flattering to the minor feelings,-are denied him.  To
this picture there is no brighter side.  Fame, glory, are




176        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
not accorded to the conqueror of Indians! How substantial then, should be the government rewards of so much
labor and suffering, in the cause solely and exclusively of
the country! A leader of an army in a fair field of battle
with a civilized foe, exalted by the hope of glory-which,
like a bright spirit of the air, seems to beckon on!-by a
happy effect, or a happier accident, occurring amid the
confusion of battle, and beneath the smoke (which, oh!
how often, obscures and veils forever the deciding stroke
of some inferior), achieves a victory, and becomes famous.
But Black Hawk and his band! Unhappy tribe! Flying from their foes, did the warriors witness with stoic
apathy their wives and little ones famished, exhausted,
diseased, and left to die on the roadside! Every earthly
tie severed-all humanizing feelings, attachments, and
sympathies, outraged, embittered, destroyed;-every hope
and passion merged in revenge;-why did not a desire to
end a wretched existence in a glorious death, halt the red
warrior on the hill-top? Appealing to the avenging spirit
of his tribe, why did he not on his NATIVE hill-tops, make
the acceptable offerings to liberty, of blood and of life?
Is this wretched love of the most wretched existence implanted in the human heart, an evidence of Unchangeable
Omnipotent Will?  Not so:-for the more elevated by
faith, patriotism, love of glory, and the many ennobling
sentiments of our most tutored and exalted state, then
the less does this selfish influence control us.
But my subject;-do these fancies and fine words belong to that?  Alas, I know not:-when the memory of
that unhappy flight was recalled;-when I saw again all
the evidences of suffering and starvation;-the corpses,
not of warrior only, but of poor women,-lying as they




IN  THE ARMY.                  177
fell by the trodden path,-how  could I confine my
thoughts, or their expression, to unmoved description?
Why did not the Indian chief leave a chosen body in
these fastnesses, where natural obstacles could well-nigh
defeat the progress of an army?  That he had scouts
that marked our progress, can scarcely be doubted; but
why he did not avail himself of their information that we
had, or act upon the strong probability that we would,
venture among these morasses, dense thickets, and precipitous defiles, and oppose to us some small force, seems
inexplicable:-at the Wisconsin he had covered well his
passage; and when we overtook him on the Mississippi, we
were met by a small body of keen warriors, who accomplished much with a similar object. Here a small force
could have retarded pursuit at every step; could have compelled us to condense our march, and continually make deployments on ground almost impracticable for any manner
of military manoeuvre, and where the horses of the volunteers would have proved a great embarrassment; endless
coverts must have kept us in constant ignorance or uneasiness, as to the amount of his force; an ambuscade
might have been formed every mile. It may have been
that he had calculated, with supposed certainty, our inability to overtake him east of the Mississippi; a want of
provisions may have been an obstacle; may have rendered it impracticable to leave a large force;-though he
certainly had many horses (some of which were eaten);
and a dozen good men could have effected the purpose.
An ill-judged confidence of security is the stumblingblock of warfare. But there was certainly a great deficiency of natural abilities for war continually manifested
by the Sacs. There has been many an Indian warrior



178        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
unless they have been greatly overrated in our histories
-who could with their means and opportunities in this
campaign, have made us pay dearly for every success.
(Though doubtless had regulars been opposed to them at
the passage of the Wisconsin, a fatal blow would, have
been struck.) A Philip, a Guristersigo, a Tecumseh, a
Keokuck or an Ietan, would have destroyed Galena;would have taken Fort Winnebago; —would, on many
occasions, have run off and captured the horses of the
volunteers;-would have taken or destroyed provision
trains guarded by these gallant knights of the whip;and finally, would have brought to this pass, a force sufficient to have fully covered a retreat of their families and
all their baggage, far beyond the Mississippi River; if
not to have inflicted a severe check to our arms. Very
incapable would I have pronounced that captain of our
army, who with a hundred men, could not have repeatedly
thrown our army into great confusion, and have disputed
for weeks the passage of these fifty miles.
It was stated that the General, for the four days during
which we contended against these dangerous obstacles,
with the whole Sac force but a few miles in our front,
was in a state of great anxiety and apprehension for the
result; and was anything but desirous of an opportunity
of striking them on this ground.
We emerged on the 31st from these gloomy forests into
the gladsome light of the sun, in an open pine grove, on.
the bank of a fine little river, which we scarcely knew
then to be the Kickapoo.  No great change of circumstances ever had a pleasanter effect upon the spirits of an
army; vast high prairies were before us; the sun shone
brightly, and gleamed from the crystal waves of the
pretty river; the refreshing prairie breeze whistled mer



IN  THE  ARMY.                 179
rily through the leaves of the pines; there were indications in the enemy's deserted camps, that we were close
upon him; and probabilities favored the belief that we
would engage him on the prairies; and in a fair field and
open daylight, settle with him the long account.
And here it must be confessed, that all were in profound ignorance of our whereabout; as individuals, we
were certainly all "lost;" and perhaps none knew the
distance or direction of the nearest point of the Mississippi; but as an army, we were in high spirits, and only
wished to find the Indians whose trail we were on.
Next morning we early commenced what promised to
be a forced march; our course lay over high prairies,
with but little timber in view; but they were broken
by deep and abrupt, though grassy valleys; and in
these ran streams and springs, bold, transparent, and of
almost icy coldness; beautiful brooks abounding with
trout, which we could see everywhere darting about in
frolicsome security.
This march did indeed turn out to be a long and weary
one of full twenty-five miles. We saw several corpsesin every-day dress-lying by the trail in the open prairie;
and where pack-horses had fallen exhausted, they had
been slaughtered; and nothing but the hoofs and the
paunch were left. It was clear that the Indians had suffered from hunger; but could not have famished, while
they retained horses-as they did-to take off much baggage. At sunset we arrived on the ground which they
had that morning abandoned: the fires still smoked.
Here I saw a dead warrior, who had been placed in a
sitting posture, with his back to a tree; he had been
painted red as if going to war; and-his arms foldedhe seemed to bid us grim  defiance even in death.  Few




180        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
might look on unmoved,-none could ever forget that
dead warrior in his paint!
We learned that the magnanimous volunteers, being in
advance and having discovered an old Indian in this camp,
had extracted some information from him, and then coolly
put him to death.
An army which in summer encamps at the going down
of the sun, eats dinner and supper together about 10
o'clock at night; at 11, on this occasion, we received
orders to march at 2 o'clock in the morning.
CHAPTER XXV.
AFTER three or four hours of rest, we were roused on
the 2d of August, and marched at dawn of day.  The
order for the early march had been received by the volunteers after they had turned out their horses: this explanation was made of the circumstance that they did not
march this morning for an hour or more after the mounted
spies and infantry.
The sun found us marching over very high prairie hills
in view of a vast extent of country; there was a mighty
valley, and the forests of its lower level indicated the
great river.  Soon we saw a long and devious bank of
fog rising white as snow in the sunshine, and evidently
marking its course. A bright rosy summer morn shone
over this scene of beauty and repose-as quiet and as
peaceful as if man had never been there: at the creation,
there could not have been less indication of his presence,
save the measured tread of an armed band, speeding on




IN  THE ARMY.                   181
to awaken the echoes which had slumbered from eternity,
to the sounds of confusion, strife, and bloodshed.
Soon we saw a staff-officer gallop past towards the rear,
and heard him report that the enemy was drawn up in the
open woods in front to receive us; immediately the men
were ordered to leave their knapsacks, with the baggage,
under a small guard; and the infantry were formed in
one line in extended order, and again advanced.
Perhaps to the uninitiated no battle was ever intelligibly
described; and perhaps none such ever gathered from
a description, aided by drawings, a clear and full idea of
the manoeuvres and main incidents of a battle;-the greatest difficulty is to preserve the unities of time; but in
fact, it is beyond the power of genius-whose main attribute is expression-to express that which was never fully
formed in idea. Let us consider the obstacles in the way
of the commanding general, who must generally have
much the best opportunity of seeing or conceiving all the
acts and scenes of these great tragedies. First, the extent of the lines-of the field of battle; second, intervening woods and hills, which must almost always conceal much that occurs; third, the smoke, the dust, and
the distance; fourth, the simultaneous occurrence of distant and unconnected events, confused and complicated
in their action; fifth, the impossibility of conveying an
idea of the shape of the ground: and then there are many
difficulties in making his description (report) of what he
has seen or conceived;-a disinclination to tell the whole
truth, which, in matters unimportant in the result, might
be disagreeable to himself or others; details might render his narrative inelegant, or might establish a connection between unpleasant causes and agreeable effects.
How many actions are decided by the original acts of subi f!




182        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
ordinates! It is a merit in all commanders of corps to
improve sudden opportunities or openings, which, it may
be, there is not a possibility of the chief commander's
seeing.
As to those officers who are more engaged in the fighting, it is next to impossible that they can have even a general idea of proceedings beyond their immediate sphere.
The General arranges and directs the first blows: but
then amid the noise, the smoke, the dust-the thunder of
cannon-the deafening rattle of small arms-the rushing
of squadrons-the thousand commands, all uttered as
loudly as possible;-in a word, the darkness and confusion of the combat, generals, colonels, captains, and
sometimes lieutenants, sergeants, and even privates themselves,-all more or less act a part of their own;-the
soldier in battle, is something more than a mere machine.
Gen. Henry Lee was a man of genius; a good scholar,
a fine perspicuous writer; he had studied his profession,
and was one of the best soldiers bred in the revolutionary
war; he commanded an independent legionary corps;
and yet he fails to give a definite idea of Greene's battles,
in which he acted a conspicuous part-and where only
two or three thousand fought on a side. Gen. Greene
gives his account of them  in his reports:-his enemy a
materially different one; Lee differs from both; whilst
the editor of his work-his son-undertakes to correct
him, and differs from all.
The following is substantially an extract from  the
report of the skirmish which now occurred (2d August,
1832), on the bank of the Mississippi, just below the
mouth of the Bad-axe; and which closed the "BlackHawk war:"
"And at dawn I marched with the regular troops under




IN  TIIE ARMY.                 183
Col. Taylor and Dodge's battalion, leaving Posey's,
Alexander's, and Henry's brigades to follow, as they
were not yet ready to mount-their horses being turned
out in the evening before the order to march at 2 o'clock
was received by them. After marching about three miles,
the advance of Dodge's battalion under Capt. Dixon,
came up with a small party of the enemy, attacked and
killed eight of them, and dispersed the residue; in the
meantime, the troops then with me were formed in order
of battle, the regulars in extended order, with three companies, held in reserve; Dodge's battalion was formed on
their left. The whole advanced to the front, expecting
to meet the enemy in a wood before us-Posey's command
soon came up, and was formed on the right of the regulars;
shortly after, Alexander's arrived, and was formed on the
right of Posey-a position, at the time, considered of
great importance, as it would intercept the enemy in an
attempt to pass up the river. Not finding the enemy
posted as anticipated, I detached Capt. Dixon, with a few
of Dodge's spies to the left, to gain information, and at
the same time sent one of my staff to hasten the march
of Henry; soon after, another was despatched with orders
to him to march upon the enemy's trail, with one of the
regiments of his brigade, and to hold the remainder in
reserve; finding the enemy to be in force in that direction, his whole brigade was ordered upon that point.
The order was promptly executed by the brigade, having
in its advance the small body of spies under Dixon, who
commenced the action, seconded simultaneously by Henry.
" The enemy was driven across several sluices down the
river bottom, which was covered with fallen timber, underwood, and high grass: the regular troops, with Dodge at
the head of his battalion, soon came up and joined in the




184        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
action, followed by part of Posey's troops; when the
enemy was driven still further through the bottom to
several small willow islands successively, when much execution was done.  The main body of the enemy being in
the bottom, and adjoining small islands, Alexander was
ordered to move with his brigade to the point of action;
but from the distance of his position, he came up too late
to participate in the combat, except two companies of his
brigade, that had previously joined the brigade under
Brigadier-General Henry.
"The small body of spies of Dodge's battalion and
Henry's brigade, from their earlier position, shared more
largely in the combat than those who, from the distance
they had to march, consequently, came late into the engagement.  As soon as the enemy were slain and dislodged from the Willow Bars, the regular troops under
Col. Taylor, and a company or two of volunteers were
thrown on board of the steamboat Warrior that had just
arrived, and were landed on two adjacent islands to scour
them of the enemy, assisted by a detachment from Henry
and Dodge's commands on the river bank.  Some three
or four Indians were found and killed."
This report shows, that sometimes in military affairs,
"the last shall be first;" as witness Henry's brigade:
while " Capt. Dixon, with a few of Dodge's spies," were
looking for the Indians, the line of regulars-who were
in the utmost impatience-were halted in the open woods
near the edge of the bluff, for more than half an hour (it
seemed an age): this was the ground where the Indian
scouts, or rear guard, had been defeated and slain, as we
saw.  When we were at last ordered to advance, we threw
ourselves down the high bluff, which was not quite perpendicular; and in the act of descending I saw the In



IN THE ARMY.                   185
dians below, scampering through the woods, and occasionally firing. After crossing on logs, and wading several
sloughs, with a general discharge of firearms in our front,
a halt was ordered, and a very difficult change in the
order of the column commenced; for what purpose
heaven does not know. During this strange delay, a staffofficer of this column-finding his words or advice had
no good effect-went on, accompanied only by a bugler;
following a path which soon led him to the river bank, he
there found two mounted officers of high rank, of whom
he inquired where the enemy was?  He was told in an
island opposite, and was further informed, that the water
was fordable; this officer immediately ordered the bugler
to sound " Relieve skirmishers;" hoping thereby to attract
the brigade of regulars: and soon after he saw it marching past 200 paces from the river; he moved toward it,
and with much difficulty made himself heard by its commander, to whom he gave his information; after a slight
pause, he was told " it was too late now" (he was afraid
of another countermarch), but was advised to take in the
reserve which followed. And on he went due south. The
staff-officer succeeded in securing the reserve-three companies led by a major-whom he conducted to the bank,
and jumped in; and, though a tall man, found himself
breast deep: the battalion threw themselves in after him,
and waded to the island, where we lost five killed, and
several wounded;-the best set-off possible to the claim
which the militia were inclined to make, that (in consequence of our long halt) they had done all the fighting.
The army just then was not popular.
In this island I rescued a little red Leila, whom I found
in very uncomfortable circumstances. I felt some rising
16*




186        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
symptoms of romance; but the fire, mud, and water, or
rather I believe her complexion, soon cooled them, and I
sent her by a safe hand to the rear.
I was as much interested in a keen lad of a soldier (of
the 6th), whom I had known of old, and had seen jump
in upon a wolf at bay, when its eyes shone like balls of
fire; he had now picked up a glaring Indian sash, and
put it on; and behaving very gallantly, was probably
mistaken for a captain, and was shot through. Six or
eight weeks after receiving this dangerous wound, he left
a comfortable hospital without leave, and joined his regiment six hundred miles off!
And now, above the incessant roar of small arms, we
heard booming over the waters, the discharge of artillery;
and lo! the steamer Warrior came dashing on! It was
a complete surprise, and had a very fine effect; we had
not dreamed of a steamboat, wandering so long through
unexplored swamps and forests, where nothing so bright
as the idea of steam had ever entered; nor had the party
on the boat the slightest expectation of finding the army
here.  A captain went to the shore some distance below
and waved a flag, when he was saluted with a discharge
of grape, which covered him with a shower of limbs and
leaves.
The fog had stopped the boat, or the whole tribe would
have been in our hands; and wo had been unto them!
I saw a wounded infant wailing over the dry dugs of a
slaughtered mother.
At 3 o'clock, after breaking our fast with some crackers
and butter, which we found aboard, the steamer was
crowded with troops, and we steamed among the many
islands, which result here from the mouths of two rivers
-the Ioway being opposite;-and how well had Black




IN THE ARMY.                   187
Hawk chosen his point of crossing, being destitute of
transports. After dispensing grape and cannister right
and left very impartially into the islands, we landed on
the largest, and scoured it completely in extended order.
Large numbers had evidently just left it; but we found
only two men, whom the cannonade had driven into the
branches of large trees. Instantly without orders, the
volunteers commenced firing, and a hundred guns were
discharged at them; I saw them drop from limb to limb,
clinging-poor fellows-like squirrels; or like the Indian
in the "Last of the Mohicans."  A fine young Menominee, who was by my side, ran forward, tomahawk upraised, to obtain the Indian honor of first striking the
dead-I lost sight of him; —a few minutes after I saw
him stretched upon the earth;-he had been shot in the
back by a militia friend! It was hard to realize; a moment before he was all life and animation, burning with
hope and ambition; now, there he lay with face to heaven,
with no wound visible,-a noble form, and smiling countenance-and but a clod of the earth!
He was buried with honors in the same grave with our
soldiers. Our total loss was five killed, and eighteen
wounded, including two officers; that of the Indians was
reported " about one hundred and fifty men killed"-forty
women and children, seventy horses, &c. &c., captured.
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE poor Sacs and Foxes were now the martyrs of a
peculiarity of nature, generally attributed to dogs, but
common to men.  They were going down hill, and might




188        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
have looked out for bites or kicks. The Sioux followed
them after this defeat, and slaughtered one hundred and
forty! The General very humanely issued orders to stop
the further effusion of blood.
It was singular, but'tis true, that the regular brigade
had been unaccompanied by an army surgeon, since the
opening of the campaign; a citizen physician alone attended us; fortunately, in the Warrior, came up Surgeon
B., who immediately had his hands full; and an Indian
child with a broken arm or finger was turned over to our
doctor, whose treatment of it was laughed at.
It is to be hoped, that the women and children fell by
random shots; but it is certain that a frontiersman is not
particular, when his blood is up, and a redskin in his
power.
The Sac band was broken up, root and branch; with
their horses, very much of their baggage was lost; their
valuable copper kettles; their knapsacks or "kits" of
private effects; even their sacred war-gourds, containing
the teeth of the drum-head fish, were left on the ground;
a volunteer found $500 in specie in a bundle; taken probably from Stillman's men, in the saddle-bag retreat.
The steamer Warrior returned to Prairie du Chien, and
again came up, before we left the ground of the action:
it brought up, among other rarities, a stray dentist from
the East; who gathered a rich harvest of teeth taken from
the Indian dead;-doubtless some very fine Eastern personages now rejoice in savage ivories.
Never was a fine-dressed man so out of place-not to
say out of countenance, as another passenger, whom we
saw tripping about over our dirty and rugged encampment. It reminded one of the lordly messengers to Harry
Percy: for, though few of us smarted with "wounds




IN  THE ARMY.                  189
grown cold," the "outer man" among us had suffered
terribly from brier, brake, and bog. " I say, Fitz, what'critter' is that?" "It's Major -'s nephew." "D-n
Major —'s nephew; what business has such a thing
here?"  How very ridiculous is a dandy in the woods!
Would that a Carle Vernet could have sketched our
Indian pony auction;-the background of this picture,
a Mississippi bottom, for such a pencil, would prove a
rare and worthy subject: but the student of the human
countenance —of passion, of suffering, despair, could
possibly never have such an opportunity as in some women
prisoners which I saw. I shall never forget the unmitigated expression of despair in a face at the same time in
some sense utterly impassible. I verily believe she heard
or saw nothing around her; her mind seemed to wander
over a past and future, where all was blank or fearful.
On the third or fourth day we embarked, nothing loth,
on the Warrior, for Fort Crawford, about sixty miles
below. We had several Winnebago Indians on board;
one I remember was a bit of a dandy, and had a taste for
personal ornaments; he wore, for instance, crooked over
his forehead, the finger of a fellow savage, secured round
his head by two strips of skin which had once connected
it with a hand and arm.  As we rounded to, at Prairie
du Chien, we saw some dead bodies, which had floated
sixty miles, when one of these fellows was so eager as to
discharge a rifle-ball close by the faces of a row of us
standing on the guard; and among others, the General's,
who exhibited a strong disposition to have him pitched
overboard; the patch struck and blistered an officer's
face.  And then followed the exhibition of an awful
specimen of human nature (if the nature of an old bloodthirsty squaw can justly be placed in that category): we




190        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
saw several canoe-loads of these red fiends contend in a
race to reach these dead bodies, for the satisfaction of
taking the sodden scalps of corpses four days in water.
All knowledge being founded on experience and comparison, I believe the Infinite beyond human conception;
but its nearest approach might be found in the contrast
of a fair and refined woman to one of these hags;-one
of these beastly excrescences of Nature, which for our
sins, to teach the lesson of humility, or for some inscrutable purpose of the Almighty, are suffered in some
slight semblance of humanity, to exhibit on earth the
deformity of sin and hell.
We pitched our tents on the inhospitable sands which
here abound, and awaited as patiently as we might the
progress of events.
General Scott arrived with an aid.  He had been sent
from the East with a small division of regulars to reinforce
and take command of the army in the field; he had met
with terrible disaster and loss from cholera, on the lakes;
and though not very distant at Chicago from our position
at Koshkonong-when he announced to us his approach
-he had magnanimously refrained from  assuming a
nominal command, which would have deprived General
Atkinson of the credit of closing the war; of which the
impracticableness of the militia, and the intrinsic difficulties of the campaign-for which no allowance was
made by an impatient chieftain, wrought upon by the
ignorance and criminal folly of demagogues-had thus
well-nigh robbed him.
Hundreds of brave soldiers fell before that terrible
scourge, the cholera; at that time many northern physicians confessed a total inability to afford relief. Gen. S.
was on the lakes in a steamer crowded with troops, when




IN THE ARMY.                  191
the pestilence raged among them; and this confinement
to a comfortless boat must have rendered it tenfold more
trying; surgeons and officers alike-all that were welldevoted themselves to the care of the sick. Thus to face
deliberately inglorious death, to avert which no exertion
of courage or abilities can avail, tests more severely
heroism of character, than the fiery trials of war.
The unavailing loss of so many good soldiers reminds
me of the speech of an Indian. About ten years ago,
the Pawnees of the Platte lost nearly half their popula4ion by the small-pox: they were visited by their agent,
Major D., who witnessed the most horrible scenes. The
poor wretches were utterly ignorant of any remedy or
alleviation; some sank themselves to the mouth in the
river, and thus awaited the death which was hastened:
the living could not always protect the dying and dead
from the wolves! Their chief, Capote Bleu, exclaimed to
Major D., " Oh, my father how many glorious battles we
might have fought, and not lost so many men!"
My old Colonel and myself were destined to another
luckless adventure in our little tent on these treacherous
sands. A violent storm of wind and rain rose one night,
and aroused me by a severe blow on the head from a
green ridge pole-and him, by blowing a wet tent in his
face by way of counterpane.  We thought it after midnight, and the prospect was blue enough. The Colonel
fumbled for his cigars, and swore he would smoke off the
rest of the night (the Colonel was a smoker). "It will
never do," said I.  "But it must do; we could never
raise a light.  Confound that tent pin!  William!"
(William, lucky dog, was at the fort, of course, gambling.)
"But we could find our way to the barge."
"D-n the barge-not military-we should break our




192        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
necks or be drowned. I tell you, sir, I shall sit here and
smoke till morning." (The Colonel was a little Turkish
in his philosophy.) I left him, not to his fate, but to
seek the steamboat barge. After running over a sentinel
(I forgot my own countersign), and falling down a sandbank, I gained at length the barge cabin, when I found
it was only ten o'clock. I ordered a berth prepared, and
returned with a decanter of brandy; meeting with no
difficulty in finding the Colonel, who was puffing away
at a segar, which blazed like a beacon; my report, and
the first fruits of my success, so mollified the old gentleman, that he suffered himself to be conducted to a comfortable bed.
Soon after, the regulars moved by steamboat to Fort
Armstrong on Rock Island,. where they encamped.
CHAPTER XXVII.
HERE, after a short interval of rest and comfort, we
were destined to face suffering and death in new forms,
and infinitely more trying than any other to which we
ihad been exposed. By the approach of the remnants of
the eastern division, we were well convinced that we were
to be exposed, and unnecessarily, to the fatal ravages of
the cholera. In vain were arguments multiplied, as to
non-contagion-conviction did not follow; and all we
could do was to resign ourselves with what grace we
might, into the hands of fate. After the pestilence had
exhausted itself among these troops, they had been put




IN THE ARMY.                   193
in motion across the prairies for this post; when, the
campaign being over, they could serve to swell the command of the new general commanding, and add to the
pageant of the treaty, or settlement of the affairs of the
now subdued and humbled Sac band.
They came; and soon after their arrival, the terrible
disease broke out with new virulence; it was uncontrolled; there was no shield from the danger; science confessed itself at naught; temperance shrank appalled at
its impotence, while drunkenness and exposure met swift
destruction; all felt its effects; but to be seriously attacked was certain death: the first forty died to a man.
Fort Armstrong was converted into an hospital, whence
all that entered were soon borne in carts, and thrown
confusedly-just as they died, with or without the usual
dress-into trenches, where a working party was in constant attendance; and it is a fact that an officer in charge
of it, making inquiry as to some delay on one occasion,
was answered that there was a man who was moving, and
they were waiting for him  to die.  Your messmate at
breakfast-you heard with little concern for him-was
buried at the going down of the sun.
A calm, unappalled heart,-a moderate use of brandy,
with an unchanged diet, were proved to be the best reliance of safety. The first sensible check to the ravages
of the disease, was occasioned by a man's escape alive
from the hospital, to which he returned, and died, a day
or two after; his appearance in camp-terribly shaken,
and half flayed as he was with rubbing-by restoring
confidence, had undoubtedly a most salutary effect.'Tis strange how soon in such scenes the heart of man
becomes callous. Self-love dries up the sources of sym17




194        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
pathy, which under ordinary circumstances of bereavement, are ever ready to overflow.
As I wandered one evening among the half deserted
tents, I saw two friends, who, about to retire, were bathing their limbs with spirits, and bid a jesting defiance to
the king of terrors. Over one the angel of death then
hovered, and had marked him  for his shaft! Brave
heart! that night were you stricken in the pride of youth
and promise!
I remarked that certain men who had spent much of
their lives amid the trials and dangerous adventures of
the farthest West,-men who, led into such scenes by
their enterprise, and there hardened in their bravery, and
schooled to meet the worst emergencies with calculating
firmness, now, when exposed to the cholera, were among
the most timid; they found terrors in this new foe, which
no bravery could defeat, nor skill could elude; to which
the accustomed discipline of their lives could offer no barrier. One of these, who bore a character for insensibility
to danger, was offered a high-flown compliment which he
did not appropriate: "Mr. G. you are the bravest of
the brave; you are under no obligation or restraint,
and can fly if you choose; but you do not." " General,"
-was the candid reply-" you are very much mistaken;
I am devilish afraid to stay here; but more afraid to run
for it, for if I should be taken on the way, I should
stand no chance."
A certain Doctor from the mining districts, who happened to arrive here, fancied that he had cured many
cases of the cholera, and could do so again. Well, he
had certainly brought his talent to a good market; and
General A. sent him with me to the hospital; he went
boldly in, and, doubtless, was very ingenious and con



IN  THE  ARMY.                  195
fident in his belief; but never was a poor fellow so suddenly undeceived, or quickly induced to confess an error.
He was aghast; his nose seemed to grow blue, and his
jaws to collapse; the use of his feet and hands was alone
preserved to him; with one of the latter he seized his hat,
with the other the door, and the benefits of his science
were lost to us.
He is not deep in human lore, who will be shocked and
surprised to be told that ere these scenes had ceased,
their impression could not prevent nights being passed
by parties over cards and brandy, amid all the exposure
of irregularity and dissipation in a cold tent. Care for
self, or for others, could not prevent the recklessness
which grows out of such circumstances.  And what is
there so terrible or so painful, to which we do not soon
become reconciled by force of custom?
General A. had offered a reward of twenty horses for
Black Hawk; and accordingly he was soon captured by
some Winnebagoes; and the old gentleman, with some other
chief men, about this time came down in irons aboard a
steamer. Great preparations were made to receive such
distinguished personages; but the managers of the steamer
had no taste for the Rock Island latitude; its atmosphere
was not agreeable; and after much puffing and backing
in mid-river, they gave us the go-by, and were off for St.
Louis.
The Indian war and the cholera over, I felt a longing
for other scenes.  Fort Leavenworth again had attractions; and leaving the grand army to play its part at
Indian councils, and to witness the usual one-sided treaty
(in which the Sacs and Foxes ceded the best slice of Iowa
territory as an indemnity for the expense and trouble of




196        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
exterminating their friends, Black Hawk's band), in company of some others, I took boat and departed.
And now the accursed disease seemed to have spared
me, when there was a chance of medical aid, only to seize
me when there was none; its symptoms fast grew upon
me; and there was not even a medicine-chest aboard. I
hunted up some chance doses of medicine, and scraped
out all that had the appearance of calomel, and swallowed
it; but to little purpose. I landed in St. Louis in rather
a precarious condition; one of the first persons I met in
the streets was a physician, who was struck and seemed
alarmed at my appearance; he immediately prescribed
an immoderate dose and sent me to bed. Next morning
he repeated it; he seemed bent upon trying his hand;
and probably thought, that, kill or cure, it would be well
to put a period to symptoms of cholera in a city with a
clean bill of health.
However, I escaped from him  and the disease,, and
quickly departed, having strictly charged a negro servant
to burn all the woollen clothes which I had brought with
me. This good intention his cupidity probably defeated,
as I afterward accidentally learned he was one of the
first victims to the visitation of the pestilence which soon
followed us.
Returning from my visit to Fort Leavenworth before
the end of autumn, I once more found myself with new
duties and old friends, at Jefferson Barracks; a post,
which the ever-varying policy of the government had
shorn of its original glory, when it was a " school of instruction" (rather a reserve station) for several regiments,
and had now cut down its garrison to a battalion of one.
The society this winter was small; and unfortunately
some of it Bhad found such attractions or connections at




IN  THE ARMY.                   197
St. Louis, as to destroy the unities of sentiment, motives,
and pursuits, which constitute the happiness of a small
community.
The winter quietly passed, and with the spring of 1833
new views, and the opening of a new career for some of
us were the occasion of a severance of the old and happy
ties of association and attachment to a regiment, whose
fortunes for five years I had shared; among whose members I had formed and enjoyed the warmest friendships.
It seemed the signal for a general breaking up in that
honored regiment.  Not long after, many, weary of the
inactivity of peace, or disgusted with mismanagement,
favoritism, and the discredit thrown upon them from
sources whence they should naturally look for support
and encouragement-mortifications and evils which they
shared with the army-resigned their commissions, and
entered the lists with the active world around them; and
they failed not to meet with prizes; among which may
be mentioned the station of General-in-chief in a sister
republic. Wherever our fortunes carry us, few will cease
to cherish recollections of our ancient association as members of the 6th regiment of infantry! And many have
since shed their blood like water, and died upon the battle-fields of Florida; —their memories are embalmed in
the hearts of their old comrades!
CHAPTER XXVIII.
EARLY in the summer of 1833, I was among the hardy
sons of West Tennessee, seeking to infuse an ardor for
service in a new regiment of Cavalry, one destined, we
17*




198        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
believed, to explore far and wide the Western Territory,
and bear the arms of the Union into the country of many
Indian tribes. It was a prospect that did not fail to excite the enterprising and roving disposition of many fine
young men, in that military State.
Having previously met with indifferent success at Columbia, Dover, and Clarksville, I purchased a horse at
the last place, in order to ride into the western district;
having been advised to move in the " direction" of Reynoldsburgh, visit Perryville, &c. There was no road
to Reynoldsburgh; but a candidate for Congress was kind
enough to furnish me with a pencilled map for my guidance, in which he embodied a knowledge of by-paths
gained in his electioneering explorations: he gave me
also a letter of introduction to the hospitable Judge H.;
whose house, distant about forty miles, I expected to
reach the first day.
I found the country rugged and barren; abounding in
iron ore, with perhaps wood enough to smelt it; in spite
of the map, I repeatedly lost my way among paths scarcely
discernible, on the hard and stony hills. Just as the sun,
which had been all day obscured by sullen clouds, managed
to give me a smile, as if to bid me good night, I had the
good fortune I thought, to find a wagon road; and which
without consulting the cardinal points very closely, I
struck into right merrily; it soon led me to a rude dwelling, where I was informed that I was going exactly
wrong; with reluctant conviction I turned about and was
soon lost again. It was fast growing dark, when I descended a hollow way which the woods rendered exceedingly obscure and dreary; my hat was struck off by limbs,
and I could but trust to my horse to keep the track; it
soon led to a large creek, which I forded; but in going




IN THE ARMY.                  199
out naturally missed the road; and in attempting to ascend the bank, myself and horse tumbled back in reversed
order. I succeeded in leading him out, and encountered
a high fence, which forced me to turn to the right or left.
I took the right, which I found to be wrong: we scrambled on through the brush between the fence and creek,
until I heard the bark of a dog, and looking carefully, I
espied a light very high and far to the left; this light I
resolved to make my polar star, and to go to it, despite
of all obstacles; the first was the fence, with lofty stakes
and riders, which I patiently pulled to the ground and
passed through; then another-and another, I know
not how  many; but each I laboriously  overcame,
ascending the while over ground, which I could but
wish had been more smoothly cultivated. At last I
reached a snug-looking house and sought admittance;
but, directed by the sweet sounds of a piano, I unceremoniously pushed on into a parlor, and recognized the
daughters of Judge H. I had lost my letter; of which I
informed the Judge, when he soon after came in, with a
manner which indicated that I attached but little importance to it, under the circumstances; and related to him
my own misfortunes and those of his fences; with which
I suppose-as an hospitable man and careful farmer-he
equally sympathized.
I certainly passed an agreeable evening: and listened
to the sweet music of an accompaniment of the flute by
the father to the piano of his daughter.
My kind host, after a good breakfast next morning,
gave me particular directions for my further journey,
which, however, was not performed without being repeatedly at a loss for my course. As the sun set, I found
myself on the bank of the Tennessee River at Reynolds



200        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
burgh, whose " direction" I had carefully sought for two
days; this I considered quite sufficient; for a more miserable hamlet I never saw; a half dozen houses composed it, and their occupants seemed victims to fevers;
the river, which gushes from the Virginia mountains in
swift and beautiful streams, here, like a sickly sluggard,
had lost its youthful promise; but even the springs, I
was told, are here poisonous; I took boat, crossed the
river, and slept in a tavern on the southern bank.
The following day, by selecting such bridle paths as
promised the best direction, I reached the neighborhood
of Perryville, and slept in the log-house of a small farmer; who, like all his class in this country, entertained
travellers without the expensive formality of a license and
sign-board.
Next morning early, I arrived in Perryville, the county
seat of Perry County, and situated a few hundred paces
from  Tennessee River.  Soon after, guided by a horrid
cacophony to a brick court-house in the centre of this
wretched village, I there witnessed an astonishing scene.
The room was filled-a stand of some elevation in the
midst was occupied by a Baptist preacher, who addressed
the audience in the most impassioned manner-ever turning and inclining lowly his person to the dying cadence
of his song: for in a kind of monotonous tune he delivered himself of a wild rhapsody, of which the constantly
repeated words, "morning star," were almost alone intelligible to me: but the painful part of the exhibition
was, that he totally exhausted his voice or breath at every
sentence which he sang out; and caught it-as he raised
his body-in a prolonged, shrill wheeze, like that of persons with the hooping-cough; or like an exaggerated
paroxysm  in a broken-winded horse.  I got no further




IN THE ARMY.                   201
than the door; and asking some one why they did not
take the poor wretch away, I escaped, full of wonder that
so many reasonable beings could complacently witness so
painful an exhibition of disease and unintelligible fanaticism.
At my tavern I was duly installed, as a mark of distinction, in a separate chamber; this was a space about
twelve feet square divided from a large loft, by a partition of thin boards which reached a little higher than my
head: above, was the roof, which proved a sorry protection from the heat of a scorching sun.
Terrible was a week's sojourn in Perryville. The only
inhabitant who-by virtue of a title of lawyer-laid claim
to intellectuality, was in reality a loafer; he had by one
act, established here a lasting reputation; this solitary
and distinguished achievement should be commemorated;
he had in some quarrel, thrown at his adversary's head a
pitcher!
I once sought relief in a walk to the bank of the river;
but the sight and stench of its green slime caused a precipitate retreat. I next tried gunning; and returned
covered with thousands of the almost invisible seed-tick.
They could only be removed by undergoing the martyrdom of a thorough fumigation by burning tobacco.
But I succeeded in engaging some hardy recruits,
whose imagination inflamed them with the thoughts of
scouring the far prairies on fine horses, amid buffalo and
strange Indians; so much so, that they scarce listened to
any discouraging particulars, which they would persuade
themselves were only given for discouragement sake.  A
man's wishes can always blind and deceive him: these
fellows, in some after moment of disappointment and dis



202        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
content, would be ready to accuse another of what their
own folly had caused.
I next visited the pretty village of Lexington, where I
remained three days. The evening before my departure,
in paying my bill, I perceived an extravagantly dishonest
charge, made in consideration of my having endeavored
to insist on a separate room.  I gave mine host a piece
of my mind, which led to some altercation. Immediately
after, an elderly personage whom I had never seen before,
called me to a private place, and saying nothing, very
mysteriously commenced baring his breast, and directed
my attention to certain scars, which there and elsewhere,
told of many a wound; upon my showing signs that his
pantomime was a riddle, he found his tongue, and thus
addressed me-" I came to this country, like you, young,
fiery, and impatient; and these are the consequencestake a friendly warning."  Verb. sat. I had heard of
" eloquent wounds," but perhaps never before had realized
the full force of the expression. The morning after, I
was to set out very early for Jackson: I was so much
disturbed, long before daylight, by noise, that I arose and
dressed myself.  I discovered that it was made by a gentleman, who, it appeared, was on a circuit electioneering
for the office of brigadier-general; he had taken the
rather extraordinary method to recommend himself, of
getting drunk before daylight: but as I afterwards found
him a very intelligent person, I have no reason to doubt
that he understood his own interest.
It proved we were to travel the same road; and probably owing in a measure to some sympathy between our
profession and pursuit, a kind of intimacy grew rapidly
between us. As we rode off together before sunrise, we
saw a splendid horse ridden at a little distance, which I




IN  THE  ARMY.                  i03
had before attempted to bargain for: the temptation
was now  strong, and  my companion  aggravated it.
"Look at him, Lieut.," said he: "take him Lieut.what's a few dollars?  I'll lend vu the money, if you
hav'n't it to spare," &c. &c.  It was irresistible; and at
sunrise of a Sunday morning-I grieve to say-I changed
saddles and bridles-and exchanged horses and purses,
mine being much the heavier-and rode on my way
rejoicing.
At breakfast my new friend, from force of electioneering habit, over-persuaded me to join him in a glass of
whiskey, which our host recommended as particular; saying, " Good G-, stranger, don't drink that, this is three
weeks old;"-of a truth it was detestable; and proved I
believe de trop for my companion; for after riding a
very little way, in a terribly hot morning, I observed him
attentively examining the landmarks for a certain fine
spring; and his discourse turned upon the virtues and delights of cold water.
In a sequestered spot, beneath the cool, dark shade of
a noble forest, we found it; and his praises were all faint
in describing that glorious fountain. There it was before
us, with its crystal and icy waters welling over the brim
of a moss-grown gum; delicious was the draught we took!
and renovating the bath to our fiery temples! Had the
romantic old De Leon found such a one in Florida, he had
cried Eureka! and asked no proof that. the fountain of
eternal youth was before him!
Much refreshed, we pursued our ride; and after the
privations of some weeks, my companion, without great
difficulty, persuaded me to make a divergence of a few
miles to the house of his father-in-law, who, I found, was
the father of an old army friend.




204        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
I spent there several very pleasant days; it was a noble
plantation, and had a most hospitable owner. At parting, my friend, the brigadier, and myself, exchanged
tokens of our singularly commenced friendship, and have
never since met.
I found Jackson a lively, thriving little town: I observed it under the exciting circumstances of a Congressional election; and the successful candidate was no other
than the celebrated Davy Crockett.
Having accomplished my mission, I set out on my horse
for Nashville, and made the journey in three days. I
spent about a week enjoying the hospitalities of this pleasant and flourishing western city; after which, with
another officer, I departed in a keel-boat with our company of recruits: this tedious mode of navigation was
occasioned by the lowness of the water in the Cumberland.  At Paducah we took a steamboat for Jefferson
Barracks, where we arrived without other incident than a
detention and change of boat; the consequence of a
boiler being worn out: so much so, fortunately, that it
would not bear a pressure sufficient to lead to a dangerous
explosion.
CHAPTER XXIX.
THOSE persons who may at times have felt symptoms
of envy at the fortunes of officers preferred to new regiments, might console themselves if they could but realize
the amount of labor, care, and vexation, attendant upon
the task of enlisting, organizing, disciplining, and instructing a new corps,-of producing order from chaos: and




IN THE ARMY.                   205
much the more with cavalry, where the amount of duty,
instruction, and responsibility, may safely be considered
as doubled in the comparison with infantry. And this,
without consideration of the extraordinary fact, that
cavalry tactics were unknown in the army; and, with the
whole theory and practical detail, were to be studiously
acquired-in a manner invented-by officers, before they
could teach others.
It is not a little astonishing, that our government should
have so long deprived the country and the army of the
services of so very important an arm as the cavalry; that
it should have suffered all knowledge and experience of
its organization, equipment, and manceuvres to have become extinct.
Circumstances have ever been unfavorable to a general
and just appreciation of the power and importance of this
arm of military organization.
The insulation of Great Britain has been there an
obstacle to a fair test of its uses and capacities; which,
otherwise, their fine breeds of horses would seem to have
much favored.  An inferiority in this respect, and other
reasons which might be easily shown, caused it to be
neglected in France and other nations of the continent;
while in Egypt, in Asia, and in the Ukraine, the nature
of the institutions have, for want of instruction and discipline, rendered in some degree abortive the individual
pre-eminence of their armed horsemen. (Not forgetting,
however, that the Moslem  cavalry conquered half the
world, and were only checked at the gates of Vienna by
the Polish cavalry of Sobieski.)
In the decadency of chivalry, the first introduction and
improvement of that essential arm of infantry (which in
reality is the body, of which cavalry and horse artillery
18




206        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
are the arms), led to such extraordinary, though natural
success, that in the progress of reaction-with the common use of gunpowder-men naturally fell into an opposite extreme.
The great warrior of this age perhaps over-estimated,
in the comparison, the importance and effects of artillery,
which he brought to great perfection. But in Egypt, the
undisciplined Mamelukes extracted from him an exclamation of admiration; and after a pause of far-reaching
thought, he gave utterance to a deep regret that he could
not render himself irresistible, by the command of such
men, disciplined!
Biut the discouragements to the excellence and use of
British cavalry (which must be transported by sea, to be
used), have not prevented the truth from forcing itself
upon the minds of some of their officers; and Col. Mitchell, who, with all his prejudices against Napoleon and
his warriors, and the use of the bayonet, may come to be
considered a military reformer, has proved the irresistible
though unappreciated power of cavalry.
In support of these views, and of this assertion, I shall
here give some extracts from Col. Mitchell's " Thoughts
on Tactics," which may prove acceptable to the reader,
who has not an opportunity to examine that interesting
work.
" Though cavalry formed, in general, the strength of
the armies of the middle ages, yet as the genius of
chivalry tended more to acts of individual prowess and
exertion, than to combined efforts, from which striking
results could alone be expected, little or nothing is left to.glean from that dark period.
" The introduction of firearms, which by degrees brought
infantry back to the field, diminished even the efficiency
which the cavalry derived from  the energy of knightly




IN  THE  ARMY.                   207
spirit and enterprise; for they not only took to the use
of the pistol and arquebuse, instead of the sword, their
only arm of strength, but gradually covered themselves
with such heavy armor, that a dray-horse alone could
carry the weight of a man-at-arms completely accoutred.
Thus mounted, the cuirassier was just able to sport his
clumsy and unwieldy figure, as if for show, up and down
the ranks of war, to exchange a few miserable pistol-shots,
or, at most, to run a course, with lance in rest, over some
hundred yards of perfectly level ground.
" At the battle of Hohenfriedberg, the dragoon regiment of Baireuth drove over twenty-one battalions of
infantry, took 4000 prisoners, 66 stands of colors, and
five pieces of artillery-an action, of which Frederick
says, truly enough, that it deserves to be written in letters
of gold. At Zerndorff, Seidlitz decided the fate of the
day, by hewing down with the cavalry the masses of Russian infantry, before which the Prussian infantry had
already lost ground; thus gaining one of the most sanguinary victories of the Seven Years' War. At Rosbach,
twenty squadrons,* led by the same heroic commander,
headed and crossed the French line of march under cover
of the hill that separated the two armies, wheeled up in
front of the hostile columns, and then,'Like ocean's mighty swing,
When heaving to the tempest's wing,
They hurled them on the foe,'
driving the whole of Sonbise's army, 50,000 strong, in
utter'confusion from the ground.'
"'At the battle of Belgrade,' says this great soldier
(Marshal Saxe),' I saw two battalions cut to pieces in an
*Three thousand men at most.




208        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
instant. The affair happened in the following manner: A
battalion of Lorraine, and one of Neuperg, were posted
on a height that we called the battery; and just where a
breeze of wind dispersed a fog which had impeded our
view, I observed these troops on the brow of the hill,
separated from the rest of the army. Prince Eugene
asked me if my sight was good, and who were the cavaliers coming round the hill? I replied, that they were a
body of thirty or forty Turks. These men are lost, said
the Prince, measuring the two battalions, though I could
not perceive that they were attacked, or likely to be so,
as I could not see what was beyond the hill. But I galloped towards it at full speed, and at the moment I
arrived behind the colors of Neuperg's regiment, I saw
both battalions make ready, come to the present, and, at
thirty yards, fired a volley at a body of Turks who were
rushing in upon them. The volley and the closing, were
one and the same thing; the two battalions had no time
to fly, and were all sabred."
"Combat of Avesne le Sec, Sept. 11th, 1793.
"A  corps of 8000 French, mostly infantry, having
marched out of Cambray, in order to make a demonstration in favor of Quesnoy, then hard pressed by the allies,
were overtaken near the village of Avesne le Sec, by
Prince Lichtenstein and Count Belgrade, at the head of
four Austrian regiments of cavalry. The French, seeing
that an action was inevitable, formed two large squares,
between which they placed the whole of their artillery,
consisting of twenty-guns, and thus posted, they firmly
awaited the charge. The Austrians realized everything
that could be expected from brave horsemen, for without
awaiting the infantry and artillery, that were still far
behind, they instantly charged, and though saluted with




IN THE ARMY.                   209
grape by the French artillery, and received with a volley
of musketry, fired at less than fifty yards, they overthrew
both the squares at the first onset. Two thousand men
were taken, and most of the others cut down, for only a
few hundred stragglers reached Bouchain and Cambray;
the twenty guns, together with five stand of colors, also
fell into the hands of the victors."  Austrian loss, "only
two Officers and seventy-nine men."
"Action of Villers-en-Couche, 24th April, 1793.
"On the 23d of April, 1793, the French, to the number of 15,000 men, advanced in three columns from Bouchain towards the Salle. They were met on the following
day by General Otto, at the head of ten British and four
Austrian squadrons. While part of this force dispersed
the French cavalry, four of the allied squadrons, two
British and two Austrian, attacked the infantry, consisting of six battalions, who had formed themselves into an
oblong square, broke them, killed and wounded nine hundred men, captured four hundred more, together with five
pieces of cannon; the allies themselves losing only ninety
men in killed and wounded."
"The following is the account he himself (Blucher,
then colonel,) gives, in his journal of the campaigns of
1794, of the affair near Kaiserslautern:'As soon as I
had assembled about eighty hussars and dragoons, I commanded, march! at the very time when the enemy's infantry, at least six hundred strong, were crossing the
plain.  The officer who commanded the enemy's battalion, showed much countenance; he was on horseback,
and kept his men well together. But nothing could intimidate our brave horsemen; we stormed in upon the
enemy, and though he opposed us with the bayonet, and
made a most determined resistance, we nevertheless broke
18*




210        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
in, &c.' "The entire of the French party were either
killed, wounded, or taken."
" Action of Garci-Hernandez, 23d July, 1812.
"Captain Riegenstein, who commanded the second
squadron, finding the French cavalry had already been
defeated, and hearing of the gallant and successful charge
made on one square of their infantry, proceeded immediately to attack the other, which was as completely overthrown as the first, and with considerably less loss-a
brave example once set, soon finds followers."  "In following up this success, the third squadron, under Captain
Marshall, together with half the squadron, came upon a
third square of infantry. Victory ruled the hour, and
these new foes were no sooner discovered than charged
and broken."... "Properly stated, the case stands
thus: four squares of the best French infantry, for a
rear-guard would, of course, be composed -of the best
troops, amounting at least to three thousand men, were
attacked by three squadrons and a half of cavalry, that
could not, at the most, count three hundred men, and
three of the squares were defeated with a loss to the infantry of nearly two thousand men, while the victorious
cavalry lost only one hundred men.
" If the cavalry, in charging infantry, do their duty,
one of three things must follow as a matter of course;
either they must fall by the fire of the musketry, be arrested by the bayonets, or they must overthrow the opposing ranks. Now, without again reverting to the few
musket-shots that tell, as shown in the first part of this
essay, we know very well, that, to the utter astonishment
ofmany officers present, entire volleys were fired at Waterloo and at Fuente-de-Guinaldo, without apparently bringing down a man, however many might have been hit. We




IN  THE ARMY.                  211
also know, that not a single one of the enemy's horsemen
perished on the bayonets of the kneeling ranks in either
of these actions; and it is, of course, perfectly evident,
that a horse at full speed, if killed even by the projecting
bayonets-which is possible, though not probable-must
still, by his very influence, overthrow all the files opposed
to him, and thus make an opening for those that follow.
" It is no doubt a splendid sight, when bugle-sound and
trumpet-clang send onward to the charge a gallant line
of horsemen: their plumes wave, their sabres gleam, the
very earth is shaken by the thunder of their horses' hoofs,
and, like the tornado in its progress, they seem destined
to carry everything before them in their way. But the
infantry to be attacked is prepared; the close and serried
mass, bristling with arms, from which the fires of death
are every moment expected to flash, is imposing; and
the motionless stillness, with which tried soldiers wait the
attack, has an air of stern and confident resolve that is
chilling to ordinary assailants. The horsemen, not expecting to succeed, see only death before them; and busy
fancy pictures at such times, even to the most wretched,
stores of future happiness about to be sacrificed in a
hopeless contest.  The heart cools, and the speed is
gradually slackened, instead of being augmented as the
charge advances.  If the dread of dishonor still keeps the
men from turning back, the belief in certain destruction
also prevents them from going on; but the middle way,
so dear to mediocrity, whether of talent or of courage, is
at hand, and no sooner does the firing begin than the
whole of the plume-crested troop, vanquished before a
shot has told, open to the right and left-fly, with brandished sabres, in wild confusion round the square, instead
of rushing down upon it-receive the fire of four sides to




212        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
avoid the fire of one, and, without striking a single blow
for victory, resign with loss and disgrace a contest that,
by courage and confidence, might have been successfully
terminated at the expense of a few bayonet scratches.
"I appeal to the officers who were present in the
squares at Waterloo, Quatre Bras, and Guinaldo-whether this is not an exact history of the best of the charges
made by the French cavalry in those memorable actions.
I say the best charges; for, on many occasions the horsemen actually halted, or turned, as soon as the fire began,
leaving a few individuals to dash forward and shake their
sabres at the adversaries with whom they dared not close.
And yet this is called charging, and by such foolery is the
power of the cavalry to be estimated, and the infantry of
England, the gallant and the brave, must still trust for
victory only to the chance of similar conduct on the part
of future foes, instead of trusting to those high qualities,
that, backed by an efficient system of tactics, would insure them success in every species of contest."-(From
pages 76 to 107.)
In no country of Europe, nor in Asia, can horses be
so numerously and so cheaply supported as in the United
States; and our plains and prairies plainly indicate that
cavalry is the most suitable military force. In the Revolutionary War we had a small force of admirable cavalry
on the plains of the Carolinas, to oppose that of Tarleton,
which was the terror of the whole country; and it was of
paramount importance.  General Greene's celebrated retreat before Earl Cornwallis, but for Lee's legionary
corps, could scarcely have been attempted; they were at
once the shield and the right arm of his army.
Whoever has studied the American military history,
knows that cavalry have been the scourge and peculiar




IN  THE ARMY.                  213
dread of Indians. Not to mention the conquest of Mexico-how wonderful were the achievements of De Soto,
with his little band of Cavaliers! They outdo romance.
He encountered numberless brave Indians, but his horses
gave the victory. The Indians triumphed greatly more
in the death of a horse, than of his armed rider. Infantry never could have accomplished his march.
Near the close of the war of the Revolution, the powerful nation of Cherokees made an irruption into South
Carolina.  In "Lee's Memoirs of the War" we find the
following account of its results: "Pickens followed the
incursors into their own country, and having seen much
and various service, judiciously determined to mount his
detachment, adding the sword to the rifle and tomahawk.
He well knew the force of cavalry, having felt it at the
Cowpens, though it was then feebly exemplified by the
enemy. Forming his mind upon experience, the straight
road to truth, he wisely resolved to add to the arms, usual
in Indian wars, the unusual one above mentioned.
"In a few days he reached the country of the Indians,
who, as is the practice among the uncivilized in all ages,
ran to arms to oppose the invader, anxious to join issue
in battle without delay.- Pickens, with his accustomed
diligence, took care to inform himself accurately of the
designs and strength of the enemy; and as soon as he
had ascertained these important facts, advanced upon
him. The rifle was only used while reconnoitering the
hostile position.  As soon as this was finished, he remounted his soldiers, and ordered a charge: with fury
his brave warriors rushed forward, and the astonished
Indians fled in dismay. Not only the novelty of the mode,
which always has its influence, but the sense of his incapacity to resist horse, operated upon the flying forester.




214        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
"Pickens followed up his success, and killed forty Cherokees, took a great number of prisoners of both sexes,
and burned thirteen towns.  He lost not a soldier, and
had only two wounded.  The sachems of the nation assembled in council; and, thoroughly satisfied of their
inability to contend against an enemy who added the
speed of the horse to the skill and strength of man, they
determined to implore forgiveness for the past, and never
again to provoke the wrath of their triumphant foe."
Page 383, to which there are the following notes: " John
Rogers Clarke, colonel in the service of Virginia against
our neighbors, the Indians in the Revolutionary War, was
among our best soldiers, and better acquainted with the
Indian warfare than any officer of the army. This gentleman, after one of his campaigns, met in Richmond several of our cavalry officers, and devoted all his leisure in
ascertaining from them the various uses to which horse
were applied, as well as the manner of such application.
The information he acquired determined him to introduce
this species of force against the Indians, as that of all
others the most effectual.
" By himself, by Pickens, and lately by Wayne, was
the accuracy of Clarke's opinion justified."
" The Indians, when fighting with infantry, are very
daring. This temper of mind results from his consciousness of his superior fleetness; which, together with his
better knowledge of woods, assures to him extrication out
of difficulties, though desperate. This temper of mind is
extinguished, when he finds he is to save himself from the
pursuit of horse, and with its extinction fails that habitual
boldness."
I will only add, that, after all the terrible inflictions of
the whites, the Indians have almost invariably expressed, in




IN  THE ARMY.                 215
two words, their sense of the most dreadful peculiarity of
the superior race, in naming them-from the sabres-the
"Long Knives."
CHAPTER XXX.
WE found excellent stables at Jefferson Barracks, and
everything convenient for the prosecution of our laborious
undertaking; and we looked forward with pleasant ardor
to the formation of a uniform system of tactics, and of
the various duties connected with this new arm of the
service. No one dreamed that the government could waver
in this obvious policy of concentration and quiet preparation, so essential to these important objects; (the more
so, that many'of the new appointments were not military
men.)
The result was, that, before all the companies were
mounted, an order was received to march some five hundred miles, to Fort Gibson.
If the reader will imagine six dreary months to have
passed-so painful and cheerless that I shrink from reviewing them progressively even in thought,-and will
wing his mental flight over the rugged Ozark Range,
he will find me beyond, under a canvas shade, on the
verge of boundless prairies; their cool green adorned
with rich unknown flowers, and waving to the breeze,
which had wandered, unobstructed by hill or forest, from
the snowy summits of the Rocky Mountains.  Thus, in
the sweet month of May, 1834, I sat in my tent, giving
the fresh impressions of the bleak interval, amid the
pleasant scene to which I have introduced you.




216        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
I wrote as follows:
" The distractions of a camp are so manifold, that it is
an effort of no small fortitude to undertake a subject,
which a feeling of slight, but just excitement, so fatal to
comfort in this burning climate, clearly indicates will
swell under my hands.
" One of our first military writers has made the reflection, in substance, that it costs more blood and
treasure to defend a country by militia, than to maintain
a standing army, sufficient at all times for its defence.
This position I believe to be incontrovertible, and indeed
unanswerable.  Now, far be it from me to wish to make
deductions unfavorable to the contrary policy, originating
with the sages of our Revolution, adopted by the wisdom
of their successors, and sanctioned by a nation's voice.
But it stands an abstract truth, modified in practice by
considerations which it is not my intention to discuss.
" In 1829, owing to the absence of the garrison of Fort
Leavenworth,-who were protecting the Mexican trade,a necessity arose, owing to the conduct of the Iowa Indians, of calling out the Missouri militia. In 1831, owing
to the smallness of the regular force on the Upper Mississippi, a large draft of Illinois militia were called into
service. In 1832, under the same circumstances, about
3000 mounted Illinois militia were for months in the field.
" What amount of treasure has been thus expended,
the guardians of the treasury can best answer: those
conversant with militia claims, can perhaps estimate:-to
what purpose, with what gain to the nation, military men
might answer if they pleased; but all conversant with
figures can demonstrate that the militia operations of
1832 cost a sum that would support the regiment of
dragoons for ten years; to say nothing of an immense




IN  THE  ARMY.                  217
loss arising from a general neglect of business, more particularly farming. Now, none can doubt that the regiment of dragoons, had it been then in existence, would
have prevented, or would have been fully competent to
carry on this Sac war, without the aid of a single volunteer, or even, perhaps, the regular infantry.
" Guided by the sober light of experience, Congress,
acquainted with the most prominent results of this course
of affairs, and with the necessities of the emigrating
system further south, have taken a course founded upon
a very few simple principles of political economy. The
first symptoms of the adoption of a true policy, was the
passage, I believe, unanimously by the Senate, at two
different sessions, of a bill to mount a portion of the infantry. Experience, here still in advance, made new demands on the witnesses of the proceedings of the Black
Hawk campaign of 1832.  Congress answered by the
creation of a corps of mounted rangers. Of this corps
(in justice not so formidable to its friends, as a certain
brigade of Illinois volunteers of notorious memory), after
a few remarks on its personnel, none more readily than
myself would pronounce its requiescat in pace.
" There was a time when our frontier's-men were the
most formidable light-troops,-to speak technically,that the sun ever shone upon.  But what made them
such?  The constant exercise of arms; the stern necessity of untiring vigilance; a capacity for endurance,
resulting from ceaseless exercise and warlike toil. These
prime requisites of the soldier were created amid scenes
of real danger, whose experience exceeded infinitely any
result of the drill, or the mimic war of regular soldiers,
by which they are prepared to become veterans. These
were the scenes of the.'dark and bloody ground,' and
19




218        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
these the actors, whose type was Daniel Boone (the sire
of our worthy captain of dragoons).  These were the
unaided pioneers of an infant nation; these were the
antagonists of the untamed Indians of the woods; who,
singular enough, are as much more formidable than those
of the prairies, as were the ancient Gauls and Britons
than the slothful nations of the Asiatic plains.
" Where, now, are we to look for such a class of men?
The government, gathering strength like a young giant,
has taken these matters into its own hands. The strongest
nations of Indians have been subdued to utter helpnessness; others, awed and controlled. They have felt the
strong hand of the government over and among them;
they have been tamed.  The infantry at outposts have
long since succeeded to the heritage of border men.
These last, from the slayers of Indians, have become the
foes of timid deer; from the hunters of the bear and
panther, have degenerated to those of the playful squirrel.
" But, it is the old-received,-once well-founded,notions concerning this class, which naturally linger in
the minds of a succeeding generation. To these we must
look to account for the apparent preference of Congress
for irregular troops, and their reluctance to substitute
dragoons. It is on such foundations that, in moments of
excitement, members have indulged the remark, that a
company of men on the frontier are worth more than our
whole army,'composed of the sweepings of cities.' A
twofold calumny! That member had every opportunity
of knowing, when he uttered it, that a regiment of infantry had been, for near ten years, stationed three
hundred miles beyond the most remote settlements, in
constant contact with the Indians.
" Under these false impressions, did a certain honorable




IN  THE ARMY.                   219
and intelligent Senator from the West, state during the
discussion of the Ranger bill, and the campaign of 1832,
that the frontier men, then out in the field, soon destined
some of them, to become rangers, were infinitely superior to the army, to the poor infantry (whom he would
seem to reproach for not being mounted): that they could
subsist themselves,' be here to night, and fifty miles off
by morning.'  What must have been the feelings of
officers on reading this, as they did, inactive in a wilderness-a swamp-delayed by these same boasted volunteers, who had marched to a fort for provisions,-it being
notorious that they had thrown away their rations, to
avoid the trouble of carrying them.
"Convinced by the experience of late years, of the
necessity of a mounted force, to cope with mounted and
other Indians, Congress passed the bill to raise a regiment of dragoons, on the 2d of March, 1833.  The
officers were forthwith appointed from the infantry and
mounted rangers.  They were immediately ordered to
recruit for the regiment, and were restricted in their enlistments to persons between twenty and thirty-five years
of age; native citizens who, from previous habits, were
well qualified for mounted service. The officers were
authorized to inform candidates for enlistment that they
would be well clothed, and kept in comfortable quarters
in winter. Five companies were soon completed and concentrated at Jefferson Barracks..The recruits had generally disposed of nearly all their clothing, in anticipation
of their. uniforms, on their arrival at that station.  In
this they were destined to be sadly disappointed. At the
approach of winter,-in November,-before any clothing
or their proper arms had been received; before two companies had received their horses; just at that season when




220        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
all civilized, and, I believe, barbarous nations, even in a
state of war, suspend hostilities and go into winter
quarters, these five companies received an order to march
out of theirs,-to take the field! By great exertions, and
numerous expedients, a quantity of clothing nearly sufficient to cover them, but of all qualities, colors, and
patterns, was obtained.  The march to Fort Gibson was
commenced on the 20th of November. On the third day,
they encountered a severe snow-storm.  On the 14th of
December, they reached their destination, having marched
five hundred miles.  Here they found no comfortable
quarters, but passed a severe winter for any climate
in tents; the thermometer standing more than one day at
8~ below zero. There were of course no stables, and but
very little corn, and the horses were of necessity turned
loose to sustain a miserable existence on cane in an
Arkansas bottom.
" In what originated this march? Was any important
public end to be attained? Was it to repel an invading
foe?  Was it to make a sudden and important attack
upon a foreign enemy?  Did the good of the service in
any way call for it? To these questions there is but one
answer-No! There has been assigned, as the only and
great motive, that the corps having been raised for the
defence of the frontier, would be disbanded if it remained
inactive so far in the interior as Jefferson Barracks.
What! has it come to this?  Has Congress so firmly
established a character for illiberality, inconstancy of
purpose, want of intelligence, that the true public interest is to be sacrificed to appearances glossed for their
eyes?  Is their ignorance of military affairs so great as
to become a matter of calculation? Is it attempted to
flatter them with the possession of magical attributes?



IN  THE ARMY.                   21
that, at their mighty fiat, the laborious and tedious process of enlisting, clothing, equipping-of discipline, of
dismounted and the doubly difficult mounted drill, that
has hitherto been considered the labor of a year, nay, of
years, is all to be accomplished in a day? It is difficult
to say; some mighty object has doubtless been in view;
for men have been caused to suffer such hardships as
the defence of country and liberty has not always been
sufficient inducement to endure.
" The question may well be asked, has the Government
of the United States constancy of purpose equal to the creation of a single regiment of dragoons? Our legislators
must be aware that the officers appointed in the dragoons,
were of necessity, infantry officers; that they knew nothing of the service of cavalry; that time is necessary to
overcome these difficulties, and the opportunity of peace.
The service of cavalry had become with us a forgotten
and unknown branch of military knowledge; something
to be read of, as we do of the Macedonian phalanx.
There are but two copies of cavalry tactics, founded on
the system followed, in the possession of the dragoons:
the officers have been drilled in squads, in order to teach
the men.
" Jefferson Barracks was doubtless originally selected as
the station, where the regiment was to be set up after a
uniform system, before it was to be thrown into actual
service, operating in detached bodies among widely scattered tribes of'Indians.  This might have been done
nearly as well at an outpost,-if the people are really so
anxious that their lot should be cast beyond the pale of
civilization-and they would have been spared the disasters of a change of policy.
"Rome was not more rigidl in exactions from her armies
I  I.




222        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
and their commanders, than are the United States-this
most pacific of nations!  Rome, whose very birth was
amid the throes of a measure of military violence, whose
population, wealth, and power were, step by step, the
growth of military success, whose fame and history are
but military annals. Marius was thought to have taken
the first great step towards the ruin of the republic, when
he permitted the richest and most powerful citizens to
serve by substitute in his African wars-the first instance
recorded. Such a nation might well exact of its armies
immediate action and success, when every individual had
been raised to arms.
" It is unnecessary further to waste words, on a subject
that enforces conviction on every reflecting mind. The
great change I have shown to have taken place in the character and habits of our frontiers-men, those pioneers of the
civilized, was in part attributed to a corresponding change
in the character of the Indians. But let it be here remarked, that all those who have had the opportunity have
observed, as a trait of character common to all Indians,
that none so instinctively appreciate the advantages of regularity, obedience, &c., in regular troops; it is apparently combined with a superstitious feeling, which inspires
them with awe at the sight of a completeness and uniformity, so superior to themselves, as to appear mysterious.
Owing to this, and the great changes in the circumstances
of the Indians, and our relations with them, it were
easy to clearly demonstrate that the regiment of dragoons
is better calculated for service among them than any
irregular troops, even of the old border caste, did they
now exist.  In the first place, it is well known that the
Indians, having been driven back generally to the plains,
the prairies, act now almost universally on horseback; of




IN  THE ARMY.                  223
course; all operations of attack against them must correspond; now our border-men, rangers, &c., use their
horses for the sole purpose of locomotion; they dismount
to use their rifles: thus encumbered with the preservation
of their horses, it of course is left optional with the Indians to attack him with advantage, or to avoid engagement by an indefinitely continued flight. But the main
object of our troops, as I understand it, is in these times,
to awe the Indians,-to prevent depredations and war;
and to repress their morbid inclinations for internal aggressions; topreserve peace, and further the design of
civilization. An irregular, ill-armed force, composed of
individuals who have never acknowledged the common restraints of society; who confound insubordination with a
boasted equality; who cannot endure the wholesome
action of discipline, or even obedience, cannot be considered comparable for these objects, with a force whose
perfect discipline insures an absence of all offensive irregularities, whose complete and perfect arms are the
tokens of strength; whose accurate evolutions, responding to a guiding will, are emblematic of power; whose
very uniforms have an imposing moral effect, investing
them to Indian eyes, with the character of direct representatives of a great nation which they dread.
" It has been intimated in the national legislature, that
the dragoons can and must build quarters and stables.
There seems to exist a great want of information on every
point of this subject. Now every officer of dragoons,
every intelligent man acquainted with cavalry service,
will unhesitatingly pronounce, from the force of an honest conviction, that this is impracticable, without great
deterioration, beside a total loss of their services for the
time being.  Do gentlemen reflect that the dragoon is




224        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
almost constantly occupied with the care of his horse?
of the horses of the sick? of absentees from all causes?
and until stables are built, his horse is tenfold an object
of attention?  To come to facts at once;-the dragoon
horses at this post are held out to graze the half of each
day.  This, with watering, grooming, and feeding, the
care of his various accoutrements and arms, and the drilling absolutely necessary to keep up but a moderate degree of perfection in his duties, occupies nearly every
moment of the time of a dragoon soldier.
" The PERSONNEL of the army has heretofore been complained of; called'the sweepings of cities,' &c. Young
men, fit for the service required of dragoons, cannot be
enlisted, with any such prospect of building, of hard labor,
held out. If they are inclined to work, they can easily
obtain at home double and treble the wages of dragoons.
Some experience has been had on this point; and it was
readily discovered, that the main, if not sole inducements
of those enlisted, were a craving for excitement, and romantic notions of the far West, &c., operating upon enterprising, roving inclinations.
" The Regiment of Dragoons has had, so to speak, bad
luck; which on some points is a charitable conclusion.
The winter at Fort Gibson has been one of unexampled
severity; the corn crop of last season had been swept
away by an unparalleled rise of the Arkansas River.
This was, however,' or might have been, known before
they were sent here.
" The river has been this spring, and is now, unusually
low.  Some of the clothing arrived in February; after
having been, with the sabres and pistols, sunk in a steamboat.  The guns made for the dragoons, and some of the
clothing, have not yet arrived.  Their sabres and pistols




IN THE ARMY.                   225
are not those intended for the regiment; but of a very
rough, inferior quality."
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE other five companies of the regiment were enlisted
in the course of the winter, and afterward organized at
Jefferson Barracks. They were then marched to join us
at Fort Gibson; they arrived in June; and were hurried
off like the others, on the 18th of the month, quite unprepared for an expedition. Nevertheless the regiment
marched full six weeks too late, when it is considered that
we were to traverse the burning plains of the South: and
the thermometer having previously risen to 1050 in the
shade, there was every prospect of a summer of unexampled heat.
It is painful to dwell on this subject. Nature would
seem to have conspired with an imbecile military administration for the destruction of the regiment. On, on they
marched, over the parched plains whence all moisture had
shrunk, as from the touch of fire; their martial pomp
and show dwindled to a dusty speck in the midst of a
boundless plain; disease and death struck them as they
moved; with the false mirage ever in view, with glassy
eyes, and parched tongues, they seemed upon a sea of
fire.  They marched on, leaving three-fourths of their
number stretched by disease in many sick camps; there,
not only destitute of every comfort, but exposed with
burning fevers to the horrors of the unnatural heat-it
was the death of hope.  The horses too were lost by




226        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
scores. In one sick camp, they were in great danger of
massacre by a horde of Camanche Indians, who had established themselves near by; and were in all probability
only saved by the judgment and determination of the officer in command, the lamented Izard: and he was fortunately indebted to his experience on the Santa Fe expedition. In the face of overwhelming numbers, he kept
every man who could possibly bear arms on constant
guard: and opposed at the point of the bayonet the passage of a single Indian over their slight breastwork.  He
knew the influence of dauntless boldness over Indians,
who dread every loss, and seek the attainment of their
ends by cunning and management: thus on friendly pretences they sought admittance singly, with a view gradually to obtain the power to crush the small force at a
blow.
General Leavenworth and his aid stopped. They both
lost their lives. Colonel Dodge, with 150 of the hardiest
constitutions, persevered and overcame every obstacle;
they reached the Tow-e-ash village, in a picturesque valley, amid mountainous precipices and rocks; such he discovered to be the name of a numerous tribe, who altotogether with Camanches, Kiawas, and Arrapahoes had
hitherto been confounded under the name of Pawnees.
There, perhaps within the boundary of Mexico, was
made this first though feeble demonstration of the power
and ubiquity of the white man.  Some breath was expended in an effort to mediate peace between these wandering savage robbers and their red neighbors of our
border; as availing as it would be to attempt to establish
a truce between the howling wolf of the prairie and his
prey.
But in return for two female prisoners which the Osages




IN  THE ARMY.                  227
had captured, and by some accident had not killed, and
which we carried with us, the expedition had the merit
of rescuing from barbarism and restoring to his mother, a
lad whom the Tow-e-ash had captured a year before.  On
that occasion the Indians had killed his father, a Judge
Martih; who thus paid the forfeit of a very vagrant disposition, which must have led him to intrude upon these
savage regions.
The shattered and half famished remnants of the regiment were gathered together at Fort Gibson, in August.
The thermometer had risen in the shade to 114~. There,
in tents and neglected, many more suffered and died.
After a short breathing-time, the larger portion of the
regiment marched for two other posts, distant many hundred miles, on the Missouri and Upper Mississippi; and
this last, they had to establish and build. Thus, in three
distant positions, the reader must imagine that the squadrons of this illtreated regiment, found some leisure to
invent and practise as many different systems of tactics
and duty.




PART  II.
CHAPTER I.
OH reader! "gentle" or not,-I care not a whit,-so
you are honest-I will tell you a secret. I write not to
be read, and I swear never even to transcribe for your
benefit, - unless I change my mind.  All I want is a
good listener; I want to converse with you; and if you
are absolutely dumb, why I will sometimes answer for
you.
Hundreds go and come at my word; none are my
"equals," so none are my social friends. I have much
to do; very much;-if I nod at my post, some one, or
some interest suffers;-nevertheless, the race of hermits
is extinct, and man requires companionship; there are
some moments unoccupied, sometimes even hours, and you
shall be my Friend, and I will talk to you.
How dreary must be a great Commodore,
Alone in the cabin of a seventy-four!
Be not alarmed! I make a rhyme but once a year;
the idea came in that shape, and you must take it as it
comes.
Oh, wide and fiat,-shall I say "stale and unprofitable"-prairies! I have traversed thy loveliest and thy




SCENES AND ADVENTURES.                229
most desolate wilds for three lustres; and I am not weary
of you, but of the terribly monotonous jingle of the rusty
accoutrements of Mars! Here Venus never smiles; nor
Bacchus grins; nor beams the intelligence of Mercury.
Oh, gentle Herald, that I could fly with thee! Well!a pretty salmagundi I shall have of it! But amid my
flights, I shall often be sober, serious, if not sublime. We
will talk on all subjects, from the shape of a horseshoe
to that of the slipper of the last favorite-say the " divine
Fanny," from great battles, or Napier's splendid pictures
of such, down to the obscurest point -of the squad drillfrom buffalo bulls to elfin sprites.
"So," said he, "so there is not a bandit on the road;
we are going for nothing,-to wait on these ragged-rascal
greasers. It will ruin the regiment! There has been expense enough for the trip already to break it down. I
had rather be in the infantry." At that moment I was
in a small prairie "island," "reposing from the noontide
sultriness," reclining in that choice part of the shadow of
a fine oak that the bole casts; had been reading about
the hot red rays of the sun not being reflected by the
moon; — gazing listlessly through the gently rustling
leaves into the sparkling depths of ether, and wondering
why the sun himself could not dispense with some of these
same red rays in such very hot weather. " Suffering for
country," thus, in the easiest possible attitude, I could
not grow angry, and the very idea of talking, then, was
heating; so I only thought.  "Friend," thought I, "to
obey orders is duty; and it is honorable to do duty.
I would not undertake to think for my superiors, if it
distressed me so much. Doubtless, there is expense, and
if you, and some others, had your way, you would try
the experiment of feeding the regiment on a straw a day;
20




230        SCENES  AND  ADVENTURES
and, gazing complacently on the skeleton, I doubt not
you would expect praise or promotion for your services.
I can even imagine you addressing twenty millions of
people (who all eat meat three times a day) as follows:' Behold, how faithful a servant am I; how much expense
I have spared in this terrible regiment of dragoons!'
And the'sovereigns' would growl out,' You had plenty
of money; why did you spare anything to make them fat
and efficient; we want to be well served; if we had noticed at all, we would have had several more regiments.' "
Oh! ye hypocrites,-demagogues, -who swallow  a
million squandered on a fraudulent contract, or an Eastern palace, and strain at a cent for the protection and
peace of the simple border States!
I received a letter from the old General, who said, " If
in the discharge of this duty you should find rough and
perilous work, the meritorious services of your officers,
and your men, and yourself, shall be affectionately remembered by every true-hearted soldier and statesman of our
country; and more especially of those great and growing
States of the Valley of the Mississippi, and more especially by your General and friend." I read this to another:-" Meritorious services," said he, "to stag after
these negro Mexicans; what falsehood, what folly!" I was
struck all aback.  "Have you no merit in doing your
duty?" "No, none!" Oh, Truth! thought I, how often
wilt thou forsake the mighty, and choose companionship
with folly! Surely, a man will seldom estimate his own
value too low.
Where were we? Did I not tell you, my prairie friend,
we should talk " de omnibus rebus et quibusdam aliis."
Do not be frightened at the latinity (I hope it is right).
I seldom offend in that way,..I am like the " General"
in this, and was never very deep beyond Cesar. " Gene



IN  THE ARMY.                  231
ral," said he, "you forgot the Latin;" the General took
off his hat, made another bow to the multitude, " E pluribus unum, sine qua non!"-" That will do, General."
So much for Major Downing.
"Beyond Caesar!" What a singular schoolboy phrase
for a soldier! I take Caesar for my model in dealing with
savages; —seriously, he was the greatest warrior that
ever lived-up to the period when Alexander Hamilton
is reported to have said, " The greatest man that ever
lived was Julius Caesar."
Where were we?  Where are we?   We are on a
pretty hill near the spring and grove of a nameless
tributary which meanders the beautiful valley of the
Kansas River;-a hundred miles from any place; and
it is in the dog days of 1843, and there have been three
of the hottest I have felt; the unusually light breeze has
been right behind, and only felt in bringing with us our
dust.  "Dog days?"  Oh Sirius! thou brightest and
nearest sun;-the centre,-it may be of many a more
happy planet, "more social and bright" than this;how, bright star, didst thou get thy name?
Talking of the dog star, on the Santa Fe Road, reminds me of a General, who, a longer time ago than I
would care to tell a lady, sent an express to a command
out here that I belonged to; and when an old woman at
Leavenworth remonstrated at the danger (the man was
killed), replied: "No! every Indian, from the Mississippi
to the Rocky Mountains, shall tremble at my name."
On hearing this, I made the following impromptu (the
only one in my life):
"Immorlal man, brave General!
The darkling dog star at thy birth
And fiery comet,-portents of fame.Gave warning that thy awful name,




232         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Uttered in wrath in valley plain,
In echo should the mountains gain,
To teach each man of Indian race,
From river bank to mountain base,
To TREMBLE!
The idea of publishing a book is terrible; no military
reputation could stand it; we, who of all things, seek
distinction, should be most careful how we mingle with the
vulgar herd of-book makers! But, if some " kind friend"
should ever introduce thus my scribblings unamended to
the world, I warn him to trust them only to an artist of
the press; let one art help out another; not one in a thousand can venture in the guise of the "cheap literature"
of the day, unless, indeed, it be a newspaper extra (subscribed for in advance).  There is virtue in fair wide
margins, and pictorial embellishment.
Truly, the Republic of Letters has become a rank
democracy! In the olden time when literature was more
exclusive, none wrote who felt not the call, and the inspiration strong upon them; and whatever is very difficult,
and rouses the energies to accomplish it, is better done.
Compare Eastern agriculture with that of the Great Valley! Compare the flower gardens of Nashville (city of
elegance and hospitality), which is built on a rock, with
those of any city on a rich soil!
Friend.-But you were talking of books.
"True, but I have none-Macaulay's Miscellanies,
Stevens' new  book, pshaw! even my manual, Napier,
were forgotten and left; so it is necessary to make one;
that is, fill up with our conversations this blank bound'book.' "
" After all, it would be ridiculous to publish Irving in
the cheap form, in the brown paper style; (won't the




IN THE ARMIY.                  233
time come, when a salesman will wrap up a parcel-say
a pound of tea-in a new novel, thrown into the bargain?)
They have spared Irving: his liquid sentences flowing
through glittering margins of fairest typography,-to
what can we compare them, but to a crystal streamlet
purling amid flowery savannas and sweet shady groves;
and anon delving into cave-like clefts,-romantic recesses,
where, of old, the fairies sought shelter from the glare of
day.  "And the smooth surface of the Bay presented a
polished mirror in which Nature saw herself and smiled."
Were I an Eastern monarch,-who had stuffed the mouths
of poets with sugar and gold-how could I have rewarded
such a writer?
"Could all the private wealth of England,-could all
the hands of Birmingham  and Manchester multiply the'Last of the Barons,' for instance, as in the days of the
polished and literary Greeks-in manuscript-to equal
one week's supply! Published in London-and in two
months a wanderer in the Rocky Mountains will pass the
sultry noon, poring over its pages! Oh, Steam!"
Friend.-Let us take a walk.
"With all my heart.
"Behold! the prairie, which late I saw in its fresh
and budding, yet immature beauties, has now put on a
golden garniture; and its green velvet is decked as with
precious stones; the fair rose-like virgin's blushes-has
faded from its cheek; but here are its pink apples, that
look like the cherry lips of beauty. Look at these magnetic weeds; from their young green leaves have sprung
stout stalks as high as your head; and they have put
forth other leaves which point, or edge, more truly to the
poles, than the first; they have a yellow flower.  See
these beautiful red blossoms-but here is the queen of
20*




234        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
flowers! a sensitive plant; its leaves are as beautiful as
diminutive; and its tall stem is full of sweet flowers of
the most delicate yellow; it is the type of modest Beauty!
even its slender, smooth, translucent stem is pretty."
Friend.-What is this, so like the locust, but which
seems a bush or shrub?
"I am convinced that it is the Mezquit; which is
not known to exist in our prairies; their frequenters have
no name for it that I have heard, except perhaps,'bastard locust.' Here is the milkweed, with its small white
blossom; —and here the'red-root;' it makes a good
tea; soldiers all over the Far West know and use it.
Yonder the prairie is golden with tall but miniature sunflowers-how rough the dark green leaves; turpentine
is oozing from them, and from the stalk; the polar plant
is full of it too-it may be a species. At the joint here,
you see a collection of white foam; remove it, and there
is an embryo fly;-yes; the true, troublesome horsefly;
look, it is no longer an egg, but the little wretch has motion.  Whence this moisture, and its mysterious continuance for days in the hot sun? Was the plant punctured
that it might flow out for the protection of the egg? This
turpentine seems necessary to produce horseflies; the triangular looking earfly is hatched on young pines.
"Botany-like all knowledge ennobling, what a treasure were it here! But how many are there who penetrate the pedantic surface? I care not for a little more
or less. I know that'male and female created He' also
the flowers and plants; and I have seen some admirable
hybrids. Ah! if I could go forth with Zanoni, and could
penetrate the hidden virtues and the vital mysteries of a
single square foot of the boundless waste around, then
could I rejoice above all other men!"




IN  THE ARMY.                  235
Friend.-You are wandering again. What could have
caused that strange circle in the grass there?-it is forty
feet across, and, sure enough, it is of the rank sun-flower.
" Why, my friend, if you were imaginative you could
people it with the fairies which have been frightened
from the old continent by the clink of gold, and have
here found refuge-pretty far too from the sound of dollars."
Friend.-But seriously-it cannot be accident; in fact,
there are many of them; could they have been caused by
the circular dances of the Indian! The desert here is
scarce a refuge for them.
" True!-you remind me though, how one might have
been caused if that weed is fond of Indian-trod ground.
When the cholera, girding the unhappy earth, reached
Council Bluffs, a friend of mine was there and some
Indians whom he knew;-Big Elk, the distinguished chief
of the Omahaws, and his party fled from the houses, where
they saw it, to their native prairies, and fell upon this
plan to puzzle the fiend-to throw him off their trail.
They trotted around in a circle of about this size, uttering
songs and incantations, until they wore a path; then, as
agreed, one flew off with a wide leap in a tangent, and
with steps as'few and far between' as possible, disappeared; soon after another at a different point made his
eccentric exit; and so another and another-all-the
brave and sagacious chief the last, fled howling over the
far hill-tops-the pestilence fiend was baffled and never
found their trail."
Friend.-But was I right?  Are these supposed to
be memorials of the poor Indians?
"No;-of their friends, the buffalo; when the wolves
audacious from famine, threaten the calves, their mothers




2.36       SCENES AND ADVENTURES
huddle them, and circle round on the defensive; and thus
stirring up the ground with their hoofs, excite the growth
of particular weeds; of this there is little doubt. So
much for travelling for knowledge!
"But I am sure here is buffalo grass! —it is indeed;quite a patch of it;-but close to the road where it may
be trodden: which seems a condition, I mean a proviso,
of its growth. I thought there was none so far to the
east;-but look into my'journal' for that subject.  The
dew is falling fast-let us get some of those fine plums,
and so end our walk."
CHAPTER II.
SEPT. 1.-A fine rapid clear stream this  Six miles
from Council Grove-famous as Council Bluffs. It is a
tributary of Grand River, more prettily and distinctly
called by its Indian name Neosho (water-white or clear;
the Indians, like the French, give you the adjective last).
We will wait here in this shady grove, and let the
horses eat the luxuriant wild pea-vine until the wagons
come up. This baggage is to an army what a wife and
children are to a man-a soldier at least-a necessity and
a comfort, whilst a trouble and an embarrassment.
Oh, my books! my favorite authors, how I miss you!
My call is to "spirits from the vasty deep." Not even
Shakspeare; and Walter Scott,-what a camp library
would his works be. Professedly an imitator of the great
and philanthropic Edgeworth, he dated a new era, built
up a new school, and then-ruined it: for he reduced




IN  THE ARMY.                  237
authorship to a trade. Yet, who can but admire his enthusiasm of old age; his faith (and industry) which did
remove a mountain-of debt!
And James, his follower,-his almost rival in the race
of usefulness and fame; he never equalled Ivanhoe, but
has written perhaps more books, and never descended to
the level of Castle Dangerous and some others.  The
author of Attila and Philip Augustus must rank with the
first.
Friend.-Do you not think his Black Prince and Last
of the Barons may be classed together, whether as historical or romantic?
"Decidedly so, without pronouncing on their comparative merits; the last, though admirable, is too voluminous
and heavy for a romance. Your remark might have been
more just if the philosopher, his daughter, and her plebeian lover had been left out; and the work better for a
more artistic unity."
" And D'Israeli, the younger, the sparkler! whose first
book is his best and immortal. I read an odd volume of
Vivian Grey every year.
" And Lever!-the bright coiner-so they say-of
other men's ore!
"And Cooper! the American Scott, who still more
than his model, wrote his brain as dry as a broken inkstand!
"And Willis! the Irving of'periodical literature,' and
the poet.
"And thou, immortal creator of Little Nell! whose
genius could make classical the name of Twist!"
Eriend.-He, too, founded a new school-of "serial"
writers.
" And it bids fair to complete the work of literary de



238        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
terioration. Oh, Dickens! the Atlantic was thy Rubicon;
on its broad waste thou didst shipwreck much fame and
honor. Wonderful indeed that thou shouldst, in a day,
turn two millions of admirers, friends, into despisers 
Whilst the arms of millions were outstretched to receive
thee, and their eyes glistened with welcoming pleasure,
in thy heart thou betrayedst them, and sold them to a
publisher!"
triend.-A dip into a good author, old or new, is often
a mental shower-bath; it sets one's ideas in motion; is in
some sort a substitute for the active emulation of the
world!
"But that is essential to real progress.  Something
may be learned from every one we meet; an ox-driver
may teach us some point of philosophy."
Friend.-Not mechanical philosophy; for all wagoners
live and die in the belief that small fore-wheels make a
wagon run lighter!
" By meeting and conversing with new people we gain
new ideas, and are set a-thinking; that is the greatest
benefit of travel. It is the throwing the ideas and experience of a multitude into a joint stock, that make such
world wonders as London."'riend.-Allow me to say that you are to-day quite as
interesting-as original.
"Well, shall we' talk prairie' alone? Shall we discuss
whether this beautiful purple flower, the bulbous root of
which overflows with balsam, would bear transplanting into
a flower-garden-a lady's bower! No?  Well, give me
another trial for something new on my subject. Man's
improvement depends upon his being gregarious or not;
which circumstances control; in Mexico, Peru, &c., where
kinder climates multiplied the Indian, I attribute their




IN  THE ARMY.                  239
great advance in civilization solely to their living in
crowds, villages, cities.  Our sparse hunter-tribes seem
incapable of improvement; our own race, when they have
fallen into the same circumstances, have grown barbarous."
Friend.-True enough, perhaps; but New Mexico, to
which you are wending your weary way, owes its name to
its superiority, when discovered, to savage tribes to its
south, which long kept back its Spanish colonizers; they
were then manufacturers of cotton cloth, and in fact improved very little on the slight Spanish infusion to the
date of this trade.
" Which is of precious little advantage to any one else.
I will give you a better than the usual answer to a
stumper — the exception proves the rule.' Their circumstances were very peculiar.  Nearly isolated by wide
deserts on every side, their arid and barre( country only
admitted the occupancy of valleys, where they must have
congregated; and, in fact, were found. in villages; excluded from these shelters, wild animals were repelled
from their country, and they then became, perforce, herdsmen, instead of hunters.  So much for these native
Americans."
Friend.-" Americans."  Can that name continue to
distinguish the citizens of the United States? It has
been suggested, that even now the name of the continent
may be (and should justly be) changed to Columbia, and
that we may thus secure our appropriate title.
"It is impossible to give so general and pervading a
motion to the human mind as to change the name of a
continent! Could vast bodies be easily set in motion,
their momentum would soon overwhelm the world?"




240        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Friend.-Are you reading there the Book of Regulations?
"Yes; they are changed and added to so often that it
seems no one pretends to know what they are. Here is
something on courts-martial; it is copied from  the
British."
Friend. —Do young officers become your judges as well
as jurors, by instinct? I believe no examination into
their qualifications is required before they are allowed to
sit in judgment?
" No-it is a sore spot in our system.  Something
might be made of your idea."
Friend.-The Attorney-General (or a Judge Advocate
General), an  Inspector General, and a Professor of
Ethics, might make a good Board?
"We have no Judge Advocate General; there is a
Judge Advocate, I believe; but there being no law for
his appointment, he keeps as close as a mouse. I rather
incline to a radical change; the trial of all important
cases by a kind of Circuit Court, of few members;
officers of rank and experience, selected and appointed
to perform this duty exclusively for a term of years."
To-day we arrived at Council Grove, and were received with "presented arms" by a company of dragoons-which makes a fourth.  What a collection of
wagons! there are hundreds, and nearly all have Mexican owners; look at their men! they show ivories as
white as negroes; they are Indians, but New Mexicans
as well, and speak Spanish. There are herds of mules
in every valley, on every hill, and hundreds of oxen too.
It is unhealthy here; many who have stayed a week are
sick; the dragoon company has been waiting three days,
and they are already suffering.




IN  THE ARMY.                  241
The sun set this evening with a phenomenon of marvellous beauty; from purple and blue clouds, gorgeously
edged with gold, or rather celestial fire, shot up a "glory"
-a fan of pencilled and colored light, expanded to the
zenith; and joining there, another in reflected symmetry
converged to the eastern horizon!
Council Grove is a luxuriant, heavily timbered bottom
of the Neosho, of about one hundred and sixty acres; and
there are several rather smaller in the vicinity. I can
perceive no trace of fortifications, or other antiquities,
which some fanciful writers have discovered here, though
the ground is very uneven.  It is a charming grove,
though sombre; for we love the contrast to the vast
plain, hot and shadeless.
Here we shall fairly launch into the green waste of the
" Grand Prairie." Behind we have had a sparkling rivulet every few miles.
Friend.-Yes, far sweeter than this dark forest, fit
haunt for Druids!  There, were bowers, fragrant with
rich wild blossoms, vocal with the songs of birds! Under
their arching vines the eye enjoyed a picture where the
light danced upon bright leaves, shaken by gentle airs,
and which the smooth green hills and distant groves completed!
" No fancy picture either! But I am not in that vein.
How long will the bowers, scanty though they be, escape
the Vandal axe?  How long will law, the parchment defence of the weak red man, resist the Saxon? I foresee
that agriculture will soon make here its mark (and perhaps just here it may pause again). The migratory wave
will extinguish the prairie fires, and corn-fields and young
forests will make these beautiful prairies a memory!
September 3.-Diamond Spring.  A true "Diamond
21




2-42       SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
of the Desert," a Pearl of the Prairie-were pearls but
as transparent as its cold and crystal waters!
Friend.-You were too busy yesterday at the Grove
to ride with me and enjoy the beautiful scenery; there is
an unusual variety; even rocky cliffs are not wanting. I
saw, too, much wild flax, with its pretty blue blossoms,
and sage, and sun-flowers twelve feet high, but with very
small flowers.
" Buy! Sixteen hours of labor! I only chanced to
notice the extraordinary repetition of the same strange
and beautiful sunset, but not so brilliant as the night
before: lightnings played among the darker clouds, and
with rolling thunders gave portent of the stormy night we
had, and the slippery roads to-day."
Friend.-Yes, truly, and when will all those five-ton
wagons come up?  I saw, that in the midst of your work
of organization, examining papers, writing last letters,
&c., a committee of Mexican owners waited on you.
"'I told them  that I must and would come to-day.
Many of their men-half-starved wretches!-are ill.  It
was time for action, to escape the malaria of those bottoms which were lately overflowed. They said they had
some expectation of meeting an escort, but that we would
be well received, if we went to Santa Fe, which is more
than doubtful."
Cotton-wood Fork, Sept. 6.
Marching this morning in a dense fog, about 7 o'clock,
before the caravan,-as I thought-I soon discovered,
like spectres, the dim outline of a seemingly endless column of wagons which had glided ahead of me; nine
miles it took me to get in front, on the well-beaten road.
The breeze now rattles merrily overhead through the




IN THE ARMY.                  243
tall cotton woods-which shade my tent; the light clouds
of the broken storm fly like shattered fleets before a gale;
now and then are heard distant cheers, or unearthly yells,
and volleys of whip-cracks from the Mexicans, who are
driving their overwoked mules up the steep bank at the
ford.
I find Mr. Robidoux here, with a dozen light horsecarts; he has a trading house three hundred miles beyond
Santa Fe.  The snow-storm of the 8th of last November
fell upon him in this vicinity; more than a hundred horses
and mules perished, and indeed one man; he had lost his
only axe, or he could have cut down cotton-woods for
food to save his animals.
Robidoux undertakes to give me the boundaries of the
buffalo grass, which extends to the Missouri River, and
within eighty miles of the State boundary; he says,
" that throughout New Mexico, where the buffalo do not
keep it down, it grows a foot high; his cattle and sheep
live on it exclusively, and keep fat in winter; and improve in size on the original breed; the mutton is superior
in flavor to ours."
This man prays for the annexation of New Mexico, as
necessary to develop its mineral riches: he asserts,
"that he knows districts where, for twenty miles, it is
impossible to find a handful of dirt without gold."
"Why in the world have you not made your fortune
collecting it?"
"I sunk," he replied with a true Frenchman's shrug,
" eight thousand dollar."
September 8th..Friend.-You appear to be uncomfortable?
"To ride in rain is common enough, and a man or
woman either, can stand it without much inconvenience;




244        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
but this cold September rain is doubly unpleasant, when the
reflection is made that it is twenty miles to the first tree
or bush for fuel, and that heavily laden wagons must bear
one company; but it is the villain musquitoes that fill the
measure of'discomfort;' you perceive they take refuge
from the rain within my greatcoat collar, and beneath
the pent-house of my regulation visor, although it is not
large enough to cover the end of my nose."
Friend.-Perraps they seek its atmosphere? it looks
fiery.
"True: from yesterday's sun and high wind. This'Turkey Creek,' which I left this morning, should have a
truer name; it is a cold and rainy place, without fuel,
and no turkey or other living thing did I ever see there,
save a squad of horse-stealing Indians, which we once surprised at dark, after a forced march. Three months ago
we had nearly frozen there in a rain; and I observed last
night,' we shall not find it as cold here in September as
in June,' when suddenly a north wind belied me."
Friend.-But this grumbling! it is worse than your
late discussions of mules, oxen, sheep-but above all
buffalo grass!
" Bah! one cannot sink the shop; but you must know
that this grass is my hobby. I have attempted to introduce it at the East. Yesterday's infamous roads and this
rain are worst in the prospect of the great detention they
will cause to the caravan; it will prove equal, I fear, to
the Walnut Creek loss of twelve days in June; but now
every hour counts, and is one nearer to frost and snow."
Friend.-You got some orders to go to Sante Fe and
winter in the Rocky Mountains at your first camp; was
additional clothing all you sent back for?
" Sir, I saw how matters would go, and the moment I




IN  THE ARMY.                  245
was put in charge, some twelve days beforehand, I took
measures to double the outfit which had been ordered.
I knew the Southern Department would not furnish an
escort capable of relieving me. So, against advice and
opinions of -, and protesting quartermasters and other
small fry, I kept my steady course."
Friend.-But what if you had complied with the letter
of the order; which could only have been expected, considering you had just come back from a long and tediQus
march, and with " worn down horses," as even those acquainted with such matters thought?
"Nearly three-fourths of the horses are the same.
But I will tell you what would have been the consequence-I should either have had to march back to
Fort Leavenworth when I got the new order, and attempt
to make a new outfit, or have come on and utterly failed
of means to accomplish the objects of the expedition. I
am now certain that the first alternative was impossible;
for as it was, I was just in time at Council Grove."
Friend.-Well, failing to accomplish the object of the
escort, you would have pointed to your orders?
" Yes, but success is the military test, touchstone, talisman! If disaster had occurred, a thousand judges with
goosequill in hand and printing press at elbow,-if they
had noticed,-would have condemned me unheard: the soldiers of a Republic have a narrow path to follow, and answer to two tribunals-the Government and the people."
Friend.-What are these beautiful animals.
" Antelopes-the first we have seen.  There are four
of them; two are this year's fawns.  What fidelity in
brutes! They are a family. It is here we first saw some
in June, —I dare say they are the same."
21*




246        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Friend.-What singular tails! They look like bunches
of cotton as big as my hat.
" It is two bunches or spQts of white hair adjoining the
tail which you see.  They are a rare animal; I have never
seen them in the States! they are the link between deer
and goats."
Friend.-Have you ever eaten their flesh?
" Often: it is venison with the least taste of mutton;
they are the fleetest of prairie animals; but are so curious, and so faithful to their young, that they are easily
killed.  An Indian brought one into our camp near
here, in the summer, a singular-looking little pet, with
a spoon-shaped nose and muzzle and a black tongue; its
bleat was exactly the note of a penny trumpet; its legs of
the size of your finger, ridiculously long; but the eyes
were beautiful as those of the gazelle; it sucked sugar
and water and flour; but we turned it loose."
Friend.-It is a wonder how these young animals, not
to say the old ones, escape the wolves.
" It puzzles me; the wolves cannot be numerous here;
even as much so as near the forts and settlements. Poor
devils! like the Indians, they follow the buffalo."
Friend.-What! are they their victims?  Will they
attack a grown buffalo?
"Not in prosperity.  I have observed numbers of
the largest wolves familiarly mingled with buffalo, which
were utterly careless of them; but besides accident and
sickness, how many are killed and crippled by hunters!
but when the wolves are famished, they do attack and kill
stragglers; they eat also grasshoppers."
Friend.-What a beautiful plant with the striped white
and green flowers!
"Those are the leaves; the flower-look closer-is




IN  TIE ARMY.                   247
diminutive and of a delicate white; it is a species of milkweed, and is called, I believe, the variegated euphorbia.
But yonder is land to leeward,-as a sailor would say(the flat, wet prairie is usually like the sea; a little further on, and it is salty).  It seems a city! those white
sand bluffs and forests mingled; a beautiful city with
spire and dome, and cottage too! all white, and mingled
with shade trees.  How pleasant the first far-off view of
the Arkansas! for there are its hills of shifting, impalpable sand.  Those dark green spots far in front, are a
few trees on the Little Arkansas: a big name, in fact, for
a branch a few feet wide and inches deep; it imitates the
Great, however, and is treacherous at bottom."
Friend.-Look at that gentleman! he has an ague;
what a day, and what circumstances for a sick man!
"Bad enough; I must force him to get into a wagon;
it is hard to make him  give up: he has caught the accursed disease by his four nights at Council Grove. And
that too puts a 2d Lieutenant in command of a squadron.
I was years a Captain before I commanded one even on
exercises."
Friend.-That was pleasanter than this: and what is
the honor here?
"Pleasure and honor are somewhat matters of imagination or fashion; but there is danger here;-danger of
dishonor,-that is, disaster, at least."
Friend.-'Fore Heaven! what from?  Can't you see
the' ends of the earth,' and all a plain, naked as barren?
"You are a novice on the prairies, and I hope will remain one, as to its dangers, whilst in my company; but
Cooper could tell you better than that.  Why sir, an
Indian will personate a wolf, and spy out your weak
points over a distant swell of the seemingly level surface.




248        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
In'29 it was so; and we saw nothing-marching for
months. Few would credit that there were human beings
within a hundred miles. Well-one day four discharged
men set out for home; they had gone about twelve miles
when they were surrounded and one slain on the spot.
About that time, a little off our guard, the cattle were
suffered to graze a mile from camp, when lo! 500 Indians
ready mounted sprang forth as from the earth and captured most of the cattle and horses, slew a man, and
were only beaten off by grape shot and our determined
face. The prairie is very deceiving. Kendall tells of a
chasm, 800 feet deep, and not very narrow, which they
did not perceive in open prairie, until within a few yards."
Friend.-I remember that; it was on the unfortunate
Texan expedition against Santa Fe.
" Yes: they might easily have captured it, as there was
great dissatisfaction against the government, if they had
only had discipline. It shows the difference between the
bravery of bowie-knife broils, and that high courage which
supports one amid a long train of difficulties and disasters
-which braves the wear and tear of adverse circumstances, famine, fatigue, and continual dangers: these
only inspire the veteran with heroism! They had one
such among them.  Armijo has confessed that he could
have succeeded well backed by a hundred men; or, as
Robidoux said the other day,'if they had fired three
guns.'.Friend.-Is there no end to this trudge through mud
and rain? It seems to me we are always the same,-in
the centre of a great circle of dank, flat, and changeless
prairie.
"I have been thinking very seriously to what this infernal march may lead us.'Circle,' indeed! and having




IN  THE ARMY.                   249
escaped from that of incessant fierce winds, we have duly
fallen upon the'third circle.' "
" della piova,
Eterna, maledetta, fredda a greve."
Friend.-Of rain eternal, accursed, cold, and heavyit is a wonder Dante left out the musquitos!
"Yes; but our Cerebus has three hundred wolfish
throats which bark and howl at us."
Friend.-Well, I think it won't do; you have fetched
hell too far.
"Only come here in the dogdays, and if you can't
imagine yourself around the edges of a more than poetical
hell, it will be because the eternal winds are scorching,
instead of cold."
September 9.-All day it has rained again.  We have
been lying still, trying to keep dry and warm, on the bank of
the Little Arkansas. There are a few green trees and
bushes, but little fuel. Worst of all is the case of the
poor horses-they are starving and freezing before our
eyes, for the grass is very coarse and poor; they have
shrunk very sensibly in twenty-four hours.
Fiercer and colder rages the storm; faster pours the
pitiless rain: it does us more injury than a forced march
of sixty miles;-and the traders! where are they? What
obstacles are in their way! What a great detention there
must be!
Late at night. —The cold north wind, laden with ceaseless rain, moans dismally through the dank cotton-woods:
dark, deep beneath, through its slimy banks creeps the
sullen stream; the earth, our bed, is soaked; the tall,
rank grass seems to wail to the watery blasts.'Twas
here that a cry to God, wrested by human fiends from a




250        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
brother man, fell unanswered,-echoless on the desert
air. It was here, in this solemn wilderness, where man,
it would seem of necessity, must sympathize with his
fellow,-that human beings, eight or ten, fell upon a
fiiendless one, and for vile pelf slew him! Here, without
a tear, a word, a look of human sympathy, was poor
Charvis deliberately murdered.  The famished howling
wolves do not tear their kind! Ah! it was enough to
freeze into palpable shape the ministering spirits of the
air.  Oh! methinks I hear his spirit moaning in the midnight storm.  Yes, moaning for his kind.  One tear of
sympathy! there, you have it!-may your spirit rest.
Oh! how much better to die thus, than that there
should enter into the soul, the hell which must accompany
the conception of such a deed!
CHAPTER III.
SEPTEMBER 11.-If " time waits for no man," heaven
knows what this chronic rain stays for.  We wait on it;
but if anathema or any kind of curses, sacred or profane,
could avail, it had inevitably gone to-the driest place we
read of.
A squadron of dragoons came last evening from the
South; according to their order, to relieve us; but they
are broken down and on the back track. Having pretty
thoroughly exhausted  the prairie plum  crop, and the
buffalo being washed away to far hilltops-they were now
prone to the land of pork and beans.
What with inspections, reorganizations, writing reports,
&c., I have worked sixteen hours to-day; and it is the




IN  THE ARMY.                  251
least in the world singular, that I should be now writing
for my own amusement; for any other's, quite absurd!
There must be something dry about it for recommendation.  Oh! expressive and honest Saxon monosyllable!
-dry!-thy very sound is pleasing-the idea rapturous!
Only think, though it be extravagant, at this hour of inevitable repose, of a dry blanket! think too of dry wine!
September 12.-Even until this morning did the cold
rainy weather hold out. Now, it is gloriously clear, and
the wind settled at the northwest. The Falstaff company
have gone, except a platoon I have retained; and after a
general forced contribution, one of them lacks a wool
jacket.
This is the fifth day that the caravan has been coming
forty-three miles, and I know not where they are, but
have sent to see.
I set all hands to drilling this morning, and took an
invigorating gallop along the bluff tops of the Little Arkansas; beautifully fresh and green looked the groves and
trees on its banks. But ah, the killing frost must soon
come; and then, where shall we be?
Strange, indeed, that of ten young officers, not one
brought a Don Juan into the wilderness. Is it possible
that already the torrent of steam literature has cast
Byron into the drift? How many verses of the sublime,
of the beautiful,-of love, of hate, of joy and grief, of
pathos and most comic bathos, does that name bring
crowding on my memory.
How wonderful is the contrast of true greatness and
even sublime genius. Washington stood among mankind
as the Apollo among statues.  No other man has exhibited his perfect proportion, his sublime symmetry of
character, of public and private virtues, of mind, manner,




~25 2      SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
and person. (Too perfect, I imagine, for the sympathy
of human love.)
September 14.-Owl Creek.  A  bright noonday, a
fresh breeze rattling among the shining green leaves overhead, belie the ill-omened name.
Having built for them a causeway, the traders have
managed to bring up to the Little Arkansas about onefourth of their wagons: forty-three miles in six days!
A wintry prospect.
Friend.-You have neglected me since your new friends
have come.
"Excuse me; they have helped much; two came at
Council Grove, and two more the other day; and men
with heads. But, in truth, this inactivity stagnates my
faculties; and you forget I have still newspapers to read.
I am bringing up, as from daily mails, the daily news of
some two weeks, which I had not time to read at the
Fort.  I have them  snug in layers-strata-as to date
and character too.  What a study-if one stopped to
study-a detailed history of the world for a fortnight!
One hour I read the National Intelligencer, full of sanguine Whiggery —grave, dignified, with an occasional
streak of cream in an ocean of milk and water. In the
next, I am attentively perusing the abusive, yet vigorous,
the self-important Globe, which has got a way of late of
frequently stumbling upon truths. Again, I am absorbed
in the able and interesting columns of the New York
American; but there is a certain obliquity about the paper
I do not like.  Sometimes I am amused at the Herald;
that strange compound of originality and enterprise,
weakness and strength, and egotism so excessive as to
reach within one step of the sublime! I read, too, occasionally, a St. Louis Republican, which ranks high from




IN  THE ARMY.                   253
age and commercial support; it resembles the Intelligencer, substituting a little abuse for a little ability. You
see, sir, I read both sides and neutrals, and promise to
become a knowing politician-for the Prairie!"
Friend.-Admirable!-in one quality,-their fondness
for the sound of their own voice.
" Frank as a bear hunter! Let us change then the
subject."
Friend.-No! I tried to get in a word, some time ago.
Do you call severe cavalry exercises twice a day, and an
almost daily change of camp, inactivity? a reorganization of your command too! I fear it is slothful inactivity
of mind, which has made you neglect me in the leisure I
admit you have had.
" It may be so; but it is a tempting recreation to recline against the shady side of one's tent, to smoke, and
watch the curling cloud ascend with fantastic grace, until
lost in the blue ether-to dream dreams too transparent
and airy, or too selfish for other's uses."
_Friend.-Bah! Better continue your catalogue raisonnee of newspapers.  What immense sheet is that?
"The Weekly Louisville Journal; an excellent farmer's paper.  Prentice has a characteristic quality which
now needs a name-better than repartee writer.  But,
heaven and earth! he is the best abuser too of his time
-an exotic in a genial soil."
Friend.-I like a man hearty in everything; and he
seems a favorite of yours-though hard to please.
"Bad luck to him! I don't know why he should be;
he lost for me my last copy of a political pamphlet I
wrote when I was a lad."
Friend. When a lad! What was it?
" Oh, some Utopian scheme for curing the dishonesty
22




254        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
and rancor of national politics; but masses cannot reason,
though they may grow corrupt.  The idea, I remember,
was for each party to elect three: no, it was to elect three
persons to draw lots for the Presidency; but the most
interesting particulars I now remember are, that it cost
me half a month's pay."
Friend.-And not even thanks in return.
"I read the other. day in the Journal, a very pretty
account of a ramble or voyage to the Falls of St. Anthony.
I even remember an idea, or sentence-' a new and virgin
moon was just hung out like a coronet of pearl on the
brow of evening.' "
-Friend.-Beautiful!
"We frequently meet with a gem amid newspaper rubbish. It sends a modest ray to tremble a moment in a
troubled atmosphere, and then vanish forever."
Friend.-May not the figure apply also to books?  I
read one a long time ago called the Vestal, which pleased
me very much; but never have I seen it since, or heard
it spoken of. An author of renown writes on the same
subject-borrows largely, for what the world knows-and
produces "The Last Days of Pompeii," which the world
is fully prepared to laud in advance!
" Here is another newspaper gem: N. P. W.'s letter
about Glenmary."
Friend.-Yes! by-the-by, he has imparted of late a
spicy flavor to the National Intelligencer, which must
have increased its readers, if not subscribers.
"Willis has an inexhaustible fund of novelty and
originality in him; he is a sparkling and polished writer
-but sometimes of nonsense."
Friend.-" The Adventures of a Younger Son," by
Trelawny, is another instance; a book which I have read




IN THE ARMY.                   255
twice with delight; but it is out of print; I know no one
who has read it.
" Excuse me, but I have,-and laughed till my sides
ached. What a keen sense of the ridiculous. An original
work altogether."
Friend. —And how superior to the sentimental tribe of
heroines, is the Arab bride; and Van Scalpvelt is a
jewel.
"Yes, the eccentric and inhuman martyr of science;
he is food for much laughter."
Friend.-De Witt and the nameless hero, are every
inch sailors and soldiers too.
"Do you remember the Malay chief and his red
horse?"
Friend.-Remember them! It is a splendid picture of
glorious bravery-of heroic action!
"And now, sir, your eloquence must not detain me
from'drill.' There are a half-dozen fine young fellows
here who have not had even so good an opportunity as
this to put in practice their theoretical knowledge."
September 17.-We have had some luck in incidents
on this desert; or, the " trace" is growing a frequented
highway.  The day before yesterday eight horsemen approached the camp from the west. I thought they were
Indians, or possibly, part of a Mexican escort. Before
they were recognized, another column of horse, apparently, rapidly approached. I was much urged to prepare.
" To horse!" was just breathing into the trumpets, when,
catching sight of wagon tops, I prevented the "alarm."
They were the spring caravan on their return; and a
drove of mules were the column of horse. They bring
the first certain news of their having reached Santa Fe
in safety. They returned by Bent's Fort, and so can give




256        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
us little information of the dangerous part of the direct
route which the present caravan is to follow. They had
unexpected success in disposing of their goods, the Governor of Chihuahua having brought to Santa Fe a thousand troops in consequence of the alarm of the Texans
in June. No escort to relieve me had been heard of; and
so my going on seems settled. They departed yesterday
morning, as I marched hitherward; and one of them will
offer five wagons for return freight, which would relieve
some of the overladen wagons in the rear.
Soon after leaving Cow Creek we saw buffalo; and
on our approach to Walnut Creek-where the camp now
is-they were, as usual here, numerous. One was chased
and killed by an officer. Very sweet, after a nine hours'
ride, was the meat; it is certainly superior to beef.
Last night, for the first time, was warm; and I bathed
in the stream, which is four or five feet deep. This morning the wind came rushing down from  the north as the
sun rose, and instantly it was quite cold.
A careless poor fellow of the guard, just before I
marched from  Cow  Creek, shot himself; his carbine
chamber was sprung and thus it was discharged as from
a pocket pistol; the ball was deeply buried in the shoulder, and it is feared has injured the joint.
I have been reading an article from the London Literary Gazette, excusing Americans for using the expressions, "a tall time," "a loud smell," as stated by Dickens;
it gives instances among the English and French of somewhat similar misuses of words, as a long man, for a tall
man, &c. The English it would seem cannot understand
us. (Dickens had no disposition to do so, or report us
correctly.) It is very probable he heard many such expressions, but he criticises with ill-natured seriousness a




IN THE ARMY.                   257
mere fanciful exuberance of spirits, or slang affectations
intended as small wit to amuse. An Englishman judges
the well-fed, careless, jolly, poor American by the standard of his overworked " operative," for whom to be alive
to small fun of this sort, in sober moments, would be
almost a miracle indeed; there is very little joke, I imagine, in his composition.
September 18 (Arkansas River).-Friend.-Ah, why
so dull? For a good half hour you have sat in your tent
under the cotton-wood, with book at your knee and pen
at hand, ready to take down in short hand a conversation,
yet have not had life enough to bid me welcome.
" True, most welcome friend! true all-I am as dull as
the leaden wheels of the motionless caravan. What on
earth is there here to excite anemotion, or even a solitary
idea?  A vast expanse of prairie bottom with clouds of
mosquitoes; there is a river close by, but it cannot be
seen for tall grass; these half dozen trees would not, to
a stranger, mark its vicinity. The day is warm, not a
creature, not even a solitary buffalo dots the flat surface of
the earth. I waited five days, and in five more, marched
but forty-five miles, and still the traders will not come
up; the clouds and northeast wind this morning threw
me into despair. Another rain, and they peradventure
would never cross this soft bottom."
Friend.-Pshaw! Cheer up! You will soon have new
scenes; perhaps will be able to give a picture of the much
talked of Santa Fe.
" That is the sore point; if I had got my present roving commission in my spring campaign, what a pleasant,
easy matter to have gone there and returned; but now if
I go I shall stay until it sickens us to the heart of its
barbarous dearth of all mental and creature comforts;
22*




258        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
for five or six months would some of us think of little but
home! No! I shall accomplish all the public objects of
my mission, and return by some hardworked expedient."
Friend.-But still you will see the Rocky Mountains.
"At a respectful distance Pike's Peak perhaps. I had
a terrible disappointment yesterday! My daily allowance from the strata of newspapers, turned out I thought
a prize, a number of Chuzzlewit; with the accustomed
anticipations of pleasure or amusement from his writings,
I lay down to read it. Martin had just arrived in New
York; never were my feelings so revolutionized; on the
dull prairie I could have relished novelty or wit at the
expense of my very friends; even moral poison, if it were
tart; but, lo! it was dull and disgusting; I could scarce
wade through it; as the essay of a nameless author it
could never have paid the printing; it has proved the
very Muzzlewit to Dickens."
Friend.-Talk of dulness! and you are half asleep,
and have just made a pun; which I consider deliberate
and malicious dulness.
" You remind me of an excuse once made for shabbiness,-that a patch was premeditated poverty.  But I
plead guilty; to what can I attribute so extraordinary a
circumstance? Perhaps, it is extreme fatigue, from an
attempt to chew the coating of the hump rib of a late
bull; or more likely it results from having read through
a Philadelphia weekly.
" Farewell! We shall see the Pawnee Rock to-morrow,
and perhaps have a cow chase!"
September 21.-Coon Creek. Phoebus! what a name.
There is a tribe of them: long, crooked, shallow beds,
with a string of pools in each, and if it be a dry time,
they are rendered undrinkable by the buffalo; this is the




IN THE ARMY.                   259
" same coon" where there was no grass in the summer;
but now it is better; it is buffalo grass, and has taken its
second growth since the fall of the grain in July, and the
late rains.
Friend.-Ah, please describe no more this barren
region with a solitary animal and vegetable production
-buffalo and buffalo grass.
" Prairie dogs and grasshoppers?"
Friend. —Pray, do not interrupt me.  You described
it more than sufficiently in your last journal. You dismissed me abruptly three days ago?
"In the accursed camp of swamps; it made us all sick;
and next day, in a.mile-of the best road we have hadthree wagons broke down; singular that? One was repaired and sent home empty; so I had letters to write,
yesterday, at the Pawnee Fork."
Friend.-You forget the Pawnee Rock!
"True —it is a natural monument inscribed with the
names of all the fools that pass this way."
Friend. —But its name? —
-"Came from a siege there, once upon a time, of a
small party of Pawnees by the Camanche hordes; the
rocky mound was impregnable; but alas for valor! they
were parched with thirst, and the shining river glided in
their sight through green meadows! They drank their
horses' blood, and vowed to the Wah-condah that their
fates should be one. Death before slavery! Finally, in
a desperate effort to cut their way to liberty, they all met
heroic death; ushering their spirits with defiant shouts to
the very threshold of the happy hunting grounds! The
Camanches, after their melancholy success, were full of
admiration, and erected on the summit a small pyramid
which we see to this day."




260        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
Priend.-Pure fiction!
" Inspired by a supper of two pounds of the fattest cow
that ever-"
Friend.-And worthy of its source.
Do you really think this meat better than fat beef?
"As superior as a young grouse to a long-legged
chicken; and I might as well say infinitely at once."
Friend.-What is that! it seems an echo to your
Elysian shouts.
"Ha! another; something is wrong out there! By
heaven, those buffalo will be on us! and the squadrons
are just unsaddled:-here they come! shout! fire your
guns or our horses are gone! They stop on that swellthey turn to the right.  Here they come right on! A
general shout and discharge of some arms —again they
pause. One shake now from that veteran's shaggy front
and they will dash over us:-a new movement, see! to
the right and left; that bull has lost the lead;-how they
roll at us their fierce eyeballs as they pass-the very
earth trembles.  The horses are frantic-the men can
scarcely hold them! But we have escaped!"
Friend.-That's right! pepper them  well; a lucky
shot! that fellow will pay us for our fright. I assure
you I did not breathe!
" They caught us at the weakest moment; though the
videttes should have been out. What a tremendous momentum! We are fortunate. I have repeatedly seen a
single bull charge through men, horses, and wagons."
Friend.-Is not this near the scene of your wonderful
bullfight in June?
"Yes; a few miles back; wonderful it was to think
that a bull, after being wounded and stunned by a twelvepound shell, should rush upon a great column of horse,




IN  THE ARMY.                  261
and heedless of a hundred shots and twenty wounds, with
a bull-dog to his lip, should toss a horse and rider like a
feather! They all fell of a heap! Before the dust cleared
up the man, who had hung a moment to a horn by his
waistband, crawled out safe —the horse got a ball through
his neck while in the air, and two great rents in his
flank."
Friend.-And then ran off! It was time! But you
have told me this before.
"Well, good night!"
CHAPTER IV.
SEPTEMBER 22.-Delightful, truly, to escort two hundred wagons with twelve owners, independently disposed,
and sharply interested in carrying out different views of
emergencies; the failure of water, grass, or fuel.
Want of water pushed us yesterday far ahead of them;
want of grass set us in motion this morning. We had
not made much headway,-against a beating winld,-when
it was made known that Indian dogs had been in camp,
and a rather doubtful horseman seen. Fifty sabres and
a howitzer were immediately sent back with a roving
commission, as whippers-in of these tardy merchant-men.
We were then on a very brown and very smooth
desert; a table land with just enough of the hill about it
-insensibly curving out of sight, with nothing below the
sky to relieve or correct the eye by comparison-to
create the sensation of immensity, and of vast height,
as well; it is a very rare conformation, and the effect
difficult to describe; the beholder suspects an illusion, but




262        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
he is doubtful whether optical or imaginary.  We were
passing for ten miles, apparently over this hill-top, before
a shallow pool, which we might dispute with the buffalo,
enabled us to encamp.
Alas for hungry humanity! Alas! that the blood of
six fat bulls cries in vain from the prairie against stomachs
without consciences.  So it is-the Saxon soldier goes
that " entire animal," and still craves a piece of the hog.
Sept. 23.-Here we are opposite Jackson Grove; a point
near unsurveyed and unmarked national boundaries:-it
was named by an officer who was called upon very suddenly to decide to which of three nations it belonged;
there depended much individual, if not national interest:
-some half a million of property and the amount of
blood that might be risked for the capture or retention of
so much.  The decision was right (by some four seconds
of longitude, as it has proved in 1844): the act was to
dash across the wide river, swimming in places, and with
quicksands nearly everywhere, in the face of one or two
hundred Anglo-Saxon prairie rovers (to soften two consonants into one) armed to the teeth.
Oh, Mark Tapley! thou strange brain-conception.
To-day wouldst thou have been content, and have taken
credit for cheerfulness. Caught twenty-five miles from
fuel in a thirteen hours rain-" such rain as is rain,"-for
fifteen miles we soaked, and mayhap sulked; in vain was
excitement offered in the shape of the most convenient
herds of buffalo; cows, calves, in fat family groups,
kicking up the mud as they ran past almost into our
faces:-a cape saturated to board-like stiffness, thrown
back-a sodden holster-cover half raised-a horse urged
to a deeper splash or two-and then, reaction brought us
to the cold stage again!




IN THE ARMY.                   263
Fifteen miles!-and flesh and blood-mule fleshcould stand no more; the column's head, followed by all
its drill-cemented joints, was turned to a quarter where a
"woodman's" faith in the "mariner's" compass was confirmed by the greater convexity of the treeless plain, that
it would more suddenly dip to the hospitable meadows of
the Arkansas; I knew, too, the hydraulic paradox, that
in the low, flat bottom we should find dry ground; for
it is composed of sand; but for fuel, the poor fellows,
after their wet, cold ride, had to wade waist-deep, and
over tedious quicksands, a quarter of a mile through the
river to the grove, and return with the soaked sticks upon
their shoulders; and the weather has turned cold. Pleasant
passage, that, of military life!
Sept. 26. —riend.-You neglect me! and for several
days past you have had little to do.
" True; but how depressing the circumstances!-rain
and frost, in a desert without fuel;-forage fast going
the way of all grass; and no power to recede or advance,
for the caravan is again stuck in the mud."
Friend.-I have heard of winter marches, but always,
I believe, when the poor soldier with his single blanket,
could have a good fire.  Was there really a frost?
"Last night there was a severe frost, and the winds
are very high, and low enough, as you see, to flare the
candle under the tent, and cover me with dust; but let
us change the disagreeable subject. You should have
seen our buffalo-hunt yesterday as we marched up the
river-bottom; or rather bull-baiting; an officer chased
him toward the road, and gave him with his pistol a
fatal wound; the column halted, and eleven officers
approached and commenced firing, and two had carbines; the animal was at bay, and would dash at any




264        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
one who came within fifteen or twenty paces; the fire
was kept up for near a quarter of an hour; I was practising my new  horse, but took deliberate aims; the
furious beast must have weighed as he stood two thousand
pounds.  He had many wounds through the lights; one
ball struck his spine or paralysed it, and he trotted
dragging his hinder parts! but he recovered from that.
Never did I see such a picture; his eyes glared terribly,
his compressed breathings were snorts of excessive rage;
every muscle of his body was rigid, or working with effort
to vent his anger; his tufted tail stood like an iron rod;
the blood from lung-wounds spirted from  his sides at
every breath-at least fifty balls had struck him,-he
never flinched! deliberate shots were fired at his eyes,
he seemed not to feel them; at last he sank upon his
knees, and after many unavailing efforts to rise, as an experiment, I shook a great-coat over him; his rage then
inspired him with strength, he rose and dashed after me!
Several more wounds were inflicted before the poor brave
beast fell and expired.  How strange! I have not exaggerated. Usually on receiving a single wound, such as
first given in this case, if undisturbed, they will lie down
and soon die; whilst now and then such an animal as
this is encountered, that seems deathless; of course the
excitement must give strength and keep them alive."
Friend.-The excitement and motion prevent a fatal
coagulation; are not the cows the best game now?
"Yes, but we seldom get them, they herd separately;
the men are on half allowance of flour and bull meat; the
bulls are now most dangerous; by-the-by, one of the
young officers fell and dislocated his shoulder the other
day; his horse, at speed, trod in a dog hole-that spoils
his sport for the season."




IN  THE  ARMY.                  265
Friend.-Are there no signs of your old friends, the
Camanches?
"The animal itself; a vidette on the little hill behind
the camp, saw this afternoon a horseman in the sand hills
over the river —seeing is believing, but few will believe he
saw him."
Friend.-Unwilling men —for it gives them  trouble
and labor —will only believe what they see, and while
they see it; such have constantly to be taken care of.
"And grumble at the care."
Friend.-To be constantly on the defensive, and the
strongest, is not the best school for strategy or military
caution.
" True enough, though cavalry is always weak on the
defensive, and peculiarly so without grain; on the offensive also, our town-bred soldiers can only be efficient on
the prairie through speed, bottom, and superior strength
or audacity. A surprise or concealed manoeuvre, would
scarcely be a practical method; a forced night-march
would be their nearest approach to it."
Friend.-What then becomes of the common idea that
a level plain is the ground for cavalry?
"It is mere ignorance; of practicable ground, a flat
plain is perhaps the worst for an attack by cavalry; and
it is an arm that always strikes-even when it shields a
retreating army. I would choose hilly or rolling ground
on which to attack infantry; but especially if I was unsupported by artillery: —and this ground  serves for
shelter from the enemy's artillery; and cavalry cannot
rest under its fire."
Friend.-The Indians then have advantages in attacking?
"Decidedly, in their usual method by surprise; their
23




266        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
perfect knowledge of the ground enables them to use the
concealment of long swells which we would scarcely perceive; they have no roads, and are never in danger of
wandering from their object; their knowledge too, enables them to form ambushes, a favorite resort of partisan
cavalry; they have nojingling arms, their horses are
better trained, and will endure much more; and they lead
them without tiring when concealment is necessary."
Friend.-And they can operate better in the night!
" They could-but the prairie Indians never do attack
in the night; and foolishly enough, very rarely, if ever,
attempt to drive off our horses, or even merchant teams."
Eriend.-Nay! to the D-1 his due; that is chivalry!
September 28.-" The' Caches.' "
Yesterday we marched here for fresh grass. I expected a part at least of the caravan; but lo; this morning an express to Taos for mules! It reports the whole
caravan still water-bound at Cow Creek.
Friend.-And I think you are getting into deep water,
as Oily Gammon says.
"A sea of troubles at least.  What is to be done with
Uncle Sam's cavalry? the elite of six companies of her
sole regiment of mounted dragoons.  I was ordered since
I marched, to go on to Santa Fe, then leave New Mexico
and winter somewhere about the head of the Arkansas.
I replied, you know, that I would either winter in New
Mexico or return to Fort L."
Friend.-With an eye to the Senoritas!
" To save expense; I calculated on an average season!"
Flriend.-And it is an extraordinary one.  So much
for penny-wise notions.  Capitalists great enough to be
self-insured, must be "pound foolish," in appearance to
you small-fry operators.




IN  TIE ARMY.                   267
"Who could possibly have foreseen when I last wrote,
that in seventeen days we should progress but ninety
miles! Now will the rations come?"
Friend. —You have made it a question, and you must
answer! You may starve man as well as horse, or be
crippled in your power to act, in circumstances as changeable as the weather in this desert, where the fickle winds
have never a bush to stay their fury!
" When one, after close calculation, has announced an
undertaking which wiseacres pronounce impossible; then
to find the scroll of fate unrolling obstacles which experience could not anticipate, is a severe trial; and almost
with anguish we anticipate the triumph of folly!"
Friend.-And the eternal, "I told you so, uttered
-by friends, those prophets of the past."*
" I have sent an express back to the officer in command
of the company with the caravan, to learn if they will
demand escort beyond the boundary; and how far?"
Friend.-Well, keep cool.
"A cool mind in a wet body! only a free translation."
October 1.-The night before last was, to the human
body, almost freezing cold; there was a storm of raw,
searching wind, from which blankets seemed no protection; the fires were all blown out-off-extinguished!
Bent has come and has ten loads of rations behind, but
anxiously awaits my decision, whether I shall give him
the required notice to reduce his contract in a great portion of flour and beef, not yet purchased. Yesterday
afternoon the express returned with a letter from the
traders, answering me, that they require my escort to
"Red River"-nearly to Santa Fe.  Immediately after
came their interpreter, with a confidential message that
See quotation, Don Juan, canto xiv, stanza 1.




268        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
they could dispense with it much nearer, provided Bent
and his people could be kept in complete ignorance of
any intention of returning; fearing it would be communicated to enemies; nests, they say, of semi-trappers
and semi-brigands, who harbor not very far from B.'s
establishment, and not far from a point of their route.
Now, during this conversation, Mr. B. (and suite) walk
up impatient for my final answer, for which he had very
inconveniently waited a day, involving more or less this
very point!  A  writer of scenic representation of the
burlesque, could hardly contrive a prettier comic climax,
than this pinnacle of the difficult!
My detachment has rejoined; Bent has gone.  Some
of the caravan are in advance of others,-none can say
when they will come.  And now shall I despatch an
express to Fort L. for a light load of medicines and other
necessaries for eight months in the wilderness,-time
being precious,-or shall I wait for the small chance of
the Mexicans dispensing with the escort at the Lower
Semaron Spring, sixty miles in their country, in which
event the command should certainly return?
Fair and bright dawned the first of October! The
fierce chilling blast has sung a fit requiem to the infernal
September; with its cloudy wings it has taken its eternal
flight-may such another never revisit poor people so
helplessly exposed to its dreary influences! Seven of the
Mexicans have died under its inflictions, and twenty more
of the comfortless wretches are prostrated with disease.
October 5th, 9 o'clock, P.M.-There has just gone forth
from the hilltops, on the wailing north wind, the wildest
chorus that I ever heard; a swelling unison of many
tones and a dying cadence! It is music-natural concert
music-performed by brutes under the influence of this




IN THE ARMY.                  269
dark hour, which heralds the dread footsteps of winter.
And did you not know that wolves howl in concert? Did
you never see them under the pale moon sit in circle
watching their leader as bipeds do?
All nature is musical; the birds hail the dawn, and
when the god of day touches with his pencil of light the
lovely landscape picture, their glad voices swell to harmonious glees of praise. In evening twilight, or when the
silvery moon (like Memory) casts the homely in shadow
and brightens every point of beauty, that Beauty finds a
voice! Like a sigh of happiness, Zephyr swells, and
falls, and rises again, till the answering foliage rustles
with music; the myriad insects-whose life is a songled by sweet katydid, hum a mellow and soothing concord.
Now and then this monotone is relieved by the dreamnotes of some happy bird, or solo of whip-poor-will,
whose song expresses the very Poetry of Night. Ah!
then, how happy those who hear that music of all,-the
voice of love!
Nature is full of music, and for every ear-that harmonizes with all smiles and tears:-the sounds attuned
by man can only accord with the transient mood; he can
thrill the victor with the brazen-mouthed voice of triumph,
or echo with plaintive flute the lover's sigh.
The wolves then harmoniously howl their plaints to
Nature, and soothe their pains with music; it is the
natural expression of the hour and its influences, and it
strikes in the human breast the chord which they have
strung.
It may be singular-I can scarce account to myselfbut I never heard without pleasure this voice of the Night
-the more if it be stormy and threatening-whether in
the "witching" midnight hour, or in the lonely morning
23



270        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
watch by the feeble guard-fire,-their wild and mournful
howling has been ever welcome. This instant! listen! It
comes to my soul far more intelligible music than those
extravaganzas of sound triumphantly "executed" by men
and maidens.
* * Blessed IDEAL! rosy realm! Welcome resort of
sad and weary souls! welcome, as to the fainting, lost wayfarer, struggling in darkness, the rising sun.
Dear friend!-spirit oft invoked!-Sweet Inspiration!
that leadest me ever with winged joy from the dreary
present to the fountains and groves of Memory-Beautiful Presence!
A voice. —Dreamer, awake!
"Scoffer! Who art thou, so near?"
Friend (entering the tent).-Thy monologue I endured,
whilst it touched of earth; but when self-forgetting,
thou transformedst thy true friend to a spirit minister of
hardly dubious sex,-who methinks, would wander here,
from no comfortable abode of earth or sky" Enough! And may not the actor be dreamer too?
Ah! dreams, dreams! And why not thus live o'er the
few rosy hours?-taste again, if may be, the one sparkling drop of'misery's cup?' 
Friend.-Pshaw!  That cup, if you please, at your
elbow, and let's have a drop of creature  comfort.
Things are changed?
"Yes; destiny has now shuffled the cards of our small
fates; they had been stocked by some attendant imp,
who was leading us (and tickling us the while, with exciting chimeras), to the d-l."
Friend.-Nay, stick to the surface now; only " to the
d —l" with your double-refined poetry and romance.
"Well, I must submit, to please you, and attempt a
lower level."




IN THE ARMY.                   271
Friend.-Where I fear you will scarce be at home tonight. But do give me the news?
"Two nights ago, I at last got together the caravan
merchants; they insisted upon my going on —so I marched
fifteen miles next day; and as I approached a camp
ground on the river bank, a man ran out and told me that
there was a Mexican escort, waiting a few miles above, at
the crossing! This sudden and-of late-wholly unthought of news nearly took my breath. Joy, and disappointment-of wild and dreamy adventures-had an
agitating struggle in my breast; but home-feelings soon
reconciled me to Destiny; the brain-"
Friend.-Can master every passion?
" Cool and philosophical as a woman (of whom it may
be true); but the passions not only increase in force
with the power of the brain, but in a higher ratio."
Friend.-No mathematics either, if you please, they
are infernal.
" I assure you (it is a secret of mine) that nothing else
known among men can cope with feminine logic; but that
is magical; the d-1 can as well resist holy water. Well,
at this news, it was remarkable and quite a study-speaking of ratios-that the faces of the married men were
lengthened in proportion to the length of their married
life."
Friend.-Scoffer!
"Fairly hit! Return we then to our sheep,-I should
say our Mexican escort.  They were 50 lancers-an advance party, a' forlorn hope' of 150 more, who would not
trust their carcasses on this disputed ground further than
the Cimerone. They all left Santa Fe a few hours after
the arrival of a courier from the City of Mexico.
Next morning, leaving the baggage, I marched to the




27~        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
crossing in my best style; on our approach we saw the
Mexicans beyond the river saddle and mount; but on our
dismounting they were dismissed.  The adjutant rode
over to make inquiries and invite them to cross and spend
the day with us.  Their commander declined, with the
pointed excuse that he was ordered on no account to cross'the boundary.' There can be no doubt that the Mexican
minister, seeing General G.'s published letter, announcing
our return and intention, for'free trade' sake, to visit
Santa Fe, hastened to inform his government; and that
President Santa Anna sent the express with orders to despatch an escort'within an hour' after its arrival in Santa
Fe.  They were just in time!
"Receiving their hint with a good grace, as soon as
the caravan was over, we mounted in order of battle, and
as a significant salute, fired a round from the howitzer
battery; the shells were directed in ricochet down a fine
reach of the river between us, and after a dozen of beautiful rebounds, exploded under water-to the manifest
astonishment of some of the aborigines amongst our suspicious allies. Then, turning our faces homeward, we
filed off,-returned and slept in the camp where we had
left our baggage."
Friend.-Which to-night is twenty-five miles behind
you: it is a subject for gratulation, for you will accomplish your undertaking!  I leave you to your slumbers,
and-your wolves.
CHAPTER V.
OCTOBER 7.-If I can write with gloves, here goes!
for the sun has risen only high enough to illume the




IN  THE  ARMY.                  273
crystals of frost with which the grass is studded-and
here and there a glassy pool.
Yesterday I left the road-which we will not strike for
several days-to follow more closely the bend of the
river: I had to leave the " bottom" but once; when, with
a direct course of several miles over the hills, I struck it
again at the extremity of a beautiful, level, and smooth
savanna three miles by two in extent; the hills forming the
chord of a graceful sweep of the river,-its whole course
marked by its sky-reflecting waters, or an irregular fringe
of cotton-woods; what a glorious spot, we exclaimed, for
a chase   And we had one, worthy of the scene.
Far in the bend of the river, we soon saw a large herd
of elks. Several officers made a wide detour to get between them and the water: I had just run my horse over
broken ground in the hills after four does, which seemed
to glide away from  me like spectres, encumbered as I
was with great-coat and sabre; but the previous night
-singularly enough-I had read in the Spirit of the
Times an account of the habits and peculiarities, and best
manner of chasing the immense herds of these animals,
found far to the north;-so, I saved my horse, edging
down quietly, expecting a part of them at least, in their
confusion, to run toward me.
The noble creatures, with a whole forest of antlers,
taking the alarm, first began to trot round loftily, with
heads tossed high in air-the men swore they were wild
horses; now we see the officers, putting spurs, suddenly
dash among them; we see two, three, four little blue
puffs of smoke, and hear the explosions; but no elk falls!
Now there is a rush for the river,-they have turned
again!-some are in the water;-see! a hunter is following there that immense buck, the patriarch of the herd!




274        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Bravo! I was not deceived; the herd has dispersed in
confusion;-one gang has taken the wind, and quarters
on our coast;-one hunter follows at a goodly distance!
-he is firing into their rear, but does not appear to gain
on them; these elks, without much show of motion, scud
along at a telling rate, and keep a long while at it. Now,
I tighten my belt, and lightly costumed, brace myself in
high excitement; yet cool enough still to manoeuvre on
their flank at a sweeping trot:-Now, to work!-And
somewhat late, for I soon find myself in their rear. Exquisite the excitement of race-horse speed, and the near
approach to these grand animals, straining every muscle,
in powerful motion, their cloven hoofs sharply rattling!
-and for the first time! What novelty of sensation!what astonished curiosity!-my horse snorts, and shares
my joy! Thunder we on! Now, my noble Brown, take
the spur.  Wildly excited he dashes into the herd, and I
am rushing in ecstasy in their very midst, their large
eyes flashing fire, their antlers sweeping the air above
my head.  But Brown reminds me he brought me not
there for fun alone; and so I fire my pistol into the nearest
buck, and take a pull on the willing horse.  My elkpoor fellow-seconds my intent, and soon we are motionless on a profoundly silent plain.
Now, my fierce excitement subsides. I observe curiously
-almost timidly-a magnificent animal, large as my
horse, but of a loftier crest. Ah! what beauty and what
suffering! With majesty in all his bearing, he violently
grits his teeth in pain or defiance; but in his beautiful
eyes I imagine that rage is yielding to a mournful reproach.
And now I suffer a reaction. We are alone with'Death,
which my hand has summoned to this peaceful solitude.




IN  THE ARMY.                  275
The still erect but dying animal faces me at six feet,
and painfully heaves.  I stare dreamily into those fascinating eyes: his dignity of suffering seems to demand
of me an explanation, or, a conclusion to the fatal scene.
At length, with a sigh, I finish my work; and with
another ball end his pains forever!
After supper.-The hunter in the mouth of his tent
reclines, with a pipe, upon a glossy bearskin;-before
him, a desert expanse of grass and river; — his attention is apparently divided between the moon, suspended over the western hills;-the flickering blaze of a
small fire, and the curling smoke which he deliberately
exhales. His friend stirs a toddy, reading with difficulty
a crabbed manuscript.  Loquitur.  "When I saw you
yesterday, beside your usual duties, acting as guide, surgeon-(for you have effectually cured the snake-bitten
horse)-as hunter, or butcher"" Say commissary!"" I conceived hopes of you,-that the poetic spirit was
laid; and when at supper to-night you ate so heartily
of the elk-steak, I little thought you had been indulging
again in such pathetic""Pshaw! it serves for a gilding to life's bitter pill!
The delicious supper should have mended your humor:
for I stake my reputation on it-as'guide, surgeon, and
hunter' "Friend.-And butcher— " That the flesh, cooked as it was with a little pork,
cannot be distinguished from that of the fattest buffalo
cow that ever surrendered tongue and marrow-bones to
hungry hunter."
Friend.-Bravo! I have hopes of you! Kill your
meat with a good conscience, and, daily labor and excite



276        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
ment over, solid indeed is the hunter's comfort! With
grass and bearskin bed, his toddy, and his soothing pipe
-the musical ripple of the river sparkling in the moonbeams-I mean"Fairly caught! I little thought when I heard you
abuse my pathos over the noble beast that had yielded
his life to my sport, that mere creature comforts would
thus inspire you! Dear critic, and lover of bathos! hast
thou found poetry in a full stomach?"
Friend.-The devil's in the moon.-And there goes
another wolf " concert"-' "With the thorough bass of a thousand bulls."
Friend.-All as thoroughly musical as the donkey
braying in the caravan camps. I wish you a very good
evening,'and a little better taste.'
The hunter, gazing apparently upon his ascending
smoke-as if of incense-indulges in soliloquy.
"My Friend leaves me to the silent Night-and solitude as profound as when' the Spirit of God moved upon
the face of the waters.'
" Incomprehensible scheme! Oh! thou beautiful and
wonderful Nature!-mother and moulder of the forms,
and minds as well, of our wayward race. Now, she smiles
in brilliant moonbeams on the grassy meadows, which
wave with answering gladness to the whispering air. And
the strong river flows as gently as an infant playing on
the young mother's breast; — its murmurs as softly
musical as that infant's voice! The air, methinks, is
fanned by seraphic spirits on their winged errands of
Peace! My heart swells in adoration and beats in harmony with the holy eloquence of the hour.
"But strike another chord.
"Lo! floods burst their bounds with cruel wreck.




IN  THE  ARMY.                  277
Darkness appals, and  Storm  howls o'er its victims!
Passion, Vengeance, and black Crime rear their crestsDismay and Chaos rule the hour."
Oct. 7.-Mark this day with a white stone!  After
travelling sixty or seventy miles off the road-encamping
each night on the river in comparatively good grass, and
with driftwood fuel too, I this morning, as guide, took a
course for the crossing of the Pawnee Fork, and struck
it to a degree!  Then, in the beaten dry road, the
mules were much relieved.  As we passed over the
hills we saw to our left countless buffalo:-last night
we heard them crossing the river incessantly, in single
file-which indicates their migration; with a constant
utterance of their very peculiar sounds, which may not
be better described, than as something between the grunt
of a great hog and the low bellowing of a bull. This
afternoon, as we approached a beautiful camp-ground, on
Ash Creek, a large herd came rushing by our front. Five
of us dashed after, and each killed a cow, or young bull;
and all within a mile, and as near to our camp ground!
Mine I shot with a pistol at six paces, at full speed:-it
fell as if struck by lightning, and never moved. Very
rarely does that happen! Glorious sport it is! To rush
along in the very midst of herds that blacken the earth
with numbers, and shake it with momentum; and richly,
too, it rewards the skilful hunter's hungry toil!
This has been a true October day-delightful and
magnificent October!-and with but little of the high
wind, which here so generally prevails. But this was all
too sweet, and must have its bitter. A luckless wretch
of the guard allowed his horse to escape-" all accoutred
as he was," and he has not been recovered, or traced.
24




278        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Diamond Spring, Oct. 17th,'43.
Ours is a true retreat!-a retreat from frost and starvation,-the starvation of horses and mules.  Water has
frozen a half-inch thick almost every night; and sometimes there was no fuel:-horses have begun to drop by
the roadside.
At Cow Creek I made my last buffalo chase, which
had a singular incident. Just as I was closing on eight
large bulls, on the level bottom, they utterly disappeared,
without my seeing or conceiving whither! Nothing could
equal my astonishment whilst I ran twenty yards;-then
my horse, by a powerful effort, which very nearly precipitated me over his head, stopped on the square brink of
a deep slough, where my phantoms reappeared,-and in
great bodily power, were making desperate struggles to
clear the mire, and the opposite bank, equally vertical,
and set to the edge with tall grass. This narrow chasm
could not be seen till right over it; and the bulls had
pitched in, whilst-I suppose, without knowing it-my
eyes were for an instant averted.
We encamped on the Little Arkansas, in a high wind:
the grass was tall; and I gave a very special warning to
all to beware of fire. Nevertheless, about the time we
were fairly settled, I heard a sharp alarm! All rushed
to the spot with blankets and whatever they could lay
hands upon; a hundred men fought it desperately-exposing themselves without stint-for provisions, baggage,
everything, depended on success; but, it was a doubtful
struggle, until happily, a barrel was found, to roll over it.
And this fire had not spread thirty yards! Such is our
sole forage,




IN  THE ARMY.                  279
Friend.-Very interesting, this dry grass and frost!
Has the idea of home banished me from your thoughts?
" Ah, no! I am a bit of a philosopher; and take this
October marching very kindly-particularly, after thawing of a morning; and riding ahead, I kill a grouse occasionally with my pistol."
Friend.-What would you give to see a late paper?
"You have me there! I have a weakness for a damp
newspaper;-let me see-it is now eight weeks since we
have had news. But I discovered a copy of Jatmes's False
Heir with my baggage; that, in my mental famine, has
been quite a feast."
Friend. —Do you like it?
"I think he has exhausted his best powers: the plot
turns solely on a worn-out incident; the real or pretended
substitution of infants. James has at last committed the
folly, which, first or last, all the British authors seem to
fall into-I mean a sneer, or slander, on us Americans.
Strange, indeed, that a writer who has made friends of
the readers of a great nation, should without any good
object turn their finer feelings into contempt or anger, by
a few motions of his pen.  Ah! deliver us from  the
temptation of a sneer! But this is coolly and deliberately
done."
Friend.-And what is it?
"I say Americanism advisedly; for republicanism is a
very different thing, and does not imply a rejection of refinement in the higher classes of society."
IFriend.-He pins his faith then upon the mercenary
class of tourists; for he has never visited us.  Did you
ever remark that his valets are often the most intelligent
and quickwitted of his characters?
"It is the case in this very work.  The hero is a lad




280        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
of seventeen; old enough to fall in love, and but little
else.  St. Medard is a mere abstraction, De Langy a
cipher, Artonne a riddle, Monsieur L. a man in a mask
who puts himself in the way sufficiently to give some
interesting trouble and help out the plot. In the most
commonplace manner, he has thrown the hero and favorite characters into difficulties for the transparent object
of a final triumph; he disinherits the hero, shipwrecks
his best friend, St. Medard; confines Artonne in prison
for murder, and last, not least, sends his best-drawn
character, Marois, to the galleys!"
Friend.-James has an extraordinary habit of making
his spokesmen repeat the first sentence of their speeches,
thus-" I don't know, sir; I don't know, sir,"-" That's
a pity-that's a pity!" Since I have noticed it, it always
makes me nervous!
" One of the last announcements I read before I left
home, was, that he had engaged to write a'serial' for
the Dublin University Magazine; sorry I am, but such is
the accustomed drivel of exhausted minds."
Friend.-After all, James has been a most effective
moralist; and we owe him much.
"It is excessively cold! And if I sleep to-night, I
shall say, blessed be the man that invented-wool!"
"110 Mile Creek."-Welcome as palm groves to the
desert traveller,-as the bearer of glad tidings to the
anxious soul,-welcome as home to the troubled and
weary spirit,-so welcome thy forests, thy waters and
grassy glades, oh, " Hundred-and-ten!"
Thus far safely, over the desolate and bleak prairies;
but with what pains! How pleasant to regain, one by
one, the summer camps, homeward bound! But how




IN THE ARMY.                   281
mournful the blackened plains, and the freezing winds to
which the solitary trees bend with shrill complaint.
I have risen after midnight where there were noneand with a few fragments of barrel staves, kindled a
little fire in a hole, where some one had managed to heat
a coffee-pot; and with a blanket over all, sought a renewal of vital heat!
With what extreme care have we nursed our horses and
mules! sharing our blankets with them, and giving them
flour mixed with the dead grass chopped with our knives.
At the hospitable shelter of Council Grove, a few of the
most broken down horses and teams were left to rest, and
await the succor I had long written for; the first of which
-a  wagon-load of corn-we have met here-forty-five
miles on.
Leaving the Grove, as we passed over the lofty prairie
hills, all the world seemed afire! The unresisted winds
seemed to riot with fire, which they drove to madness!
Black clouds and columns of smoke were wildly tossed in
the tempestuous air; whilst the flames now darted with
lightning speed and glare,-now flickered with baleful illumination and stifling effect over our hurried path. Thus
desperately I pushed on for two days-regarding nothing
-with a will fixed upon this haven of shelter and relief.
And now, our horses browse at will throughout the
forest; our log-fires crackle under the noble arches of
boughs and foliage; we read our letters and news; our
repose is home-like; and as we gaze at our forest-roofs so
cheerfully illumined, we indulge in extravagant anticipations of winter enjoyment at Fort L.
Fort L.-Two nights and a day were thus spent; and
when, almost unwillingly, we ventured forth again from
the pleasant forest, the scene and the actors were changed!
24*




282        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Autumn-so long our tyrant-pursuing us with frosty
breath on wings of flame,-in the last act had met a
master; and shrieking over the desert had fled-like a
blusterer-to the south. Stern Winter had come with his
pure winding-sheet of snow, to cover the blackened scars
of the conquered and dead year.
In three days we reached our homes, and our aircastles have sobered down to highly-appreciated comforts.
But dear "Hundred-and-ten!" we shall never forget
thy hospitable oasis;-there was little more poetry in it,
than in thy singular name (and thus both were highly
satisfactory to my matter-of-fact Friend, with whom I
there parted, with hopes of a future meeting). But, with
charred deserts behind-and forgotten; and. snow-storms
before, but unforeseen,-we embalm  in memory thy
friendly shelter, and the calm repose of thy homely
forest!
CHAPTER VI.
1845. A RIGHT pleasant company we are! Duty has
borrowed the attractions of novelty and adventure. All
are bent joyously upon scaling the crest of the broad
continent; leading and protecting those pioneers and
missionaries of civilization, the Oregon emigrants; the
rude founders of a State. Self-exiled and led by a human instinct-inspired, and superior to reason; neither
pilgrims nor of broken fortunes, but unconscious workers
of National Human Destiny, they seek the perfect independence of savage life, aided by some invented powers
of civilized art.
They scorn all royal paper claims to this virgin world




IN THE ARMY.                   283
of ours! The best diplomatists of us all, they would conquer the land as easily as,-Adam lost Paradise.
Such military expeditions as ours will sufficiently protect this migration of families; intermediate posts could
be maintained only at an immensely disproportioned expenditure: for nature has furnished no facilities for
transportation through this wilderness.
On a bright May morning, turning our backs upon
lovely Fort Leavenworth, we set forth to march twentyfour hundred miles before we shall return. We followed
for two days the trails of previous marches, guiding us
through the intricate and broken, but picturesque grounds
which border the Missouri.  Right beautiful scenery it
is; with its winding green vales, its irregular but grassy
hills, all dotted and relieved by dark oaks and cedars; in
the distance, some bold blue highland of the great river,
-or, itself revealed in far off silvery sheen. The third
day we struck out boldly into the almost untrodden prairies, bearing quite to the west. The sixth day-having
marched about ninety miles-we turned toward the south,
crossing a vast elevated and nearly level plain, extending
between two branches of the Blue River: thus, without
an obstacle for fifteen miles, we reached and encamped
upon its bank.  We had the company of an afternoon
rain, which lasted the night.  Thus to sleep wet is
"perchance to dream," for young campaigners.  In the
morning something was heard of the joke of " seeing the
elephant;" but an amateur, whose horse had disappeared
in the night, was understood to have expressed the opinion that it was a poor one.
We had fortunately struck the Blue where it was fordable; and the pioneers soon prepared a way for the
wagons.  This is a serious undertaking, to lead three




284        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
hundred heavily armed men beyond communications, for
three or four months.  It is not thus the European
marches, or goes to war. Foresight and experience is
necessary; and we are encumbered with seventeen wagons, although the rations are shortened, cattle driven,
and some dependence put upon buffalo.
The seventh day, leaving the Blue, and turning to the
northwest, between two tributaries from that direction,
we soon espied on a distant ridge, the wagon-tops of the
emigrants-dim, white spots, like sails at sea. Gradually
converging, in a few hours we met.
Here was a great thoroughfare-broad and well-wornthe longest and best natural road perhaps in the world.
Endless seemed the procession of wagons; mostly very
light, and laden only with children and provisions, and the
most necessary articles for families; and drawn generally
by two yokes of oxen; some three hundred wagons or families, they said, were in advance. Here was some cause
to tremble for our sole resource for forage: for the grass
is backward and scanty, and these foster children of the
Missouri bear, as we know, like all partially civilized
nomades, are accompanied by herds of cattle; and we
cannot, like Abraham and Lot, take different courses.
Having marched about twenty miles, we turned off for
water and a camp, to a small branch of the Blue, where
we found our friends ahead had made their mark. There
we had a frost.
That little stream had made a section of about twenty
feet through a bed of yellow adhesive clay; at the base
was found a mammoth tooth: there can be little doubt of
the skeleton being near; of the grinder being —to borrow
a mineralogical expression-nearly in situ.
On the 26th we were off betimes, highly desirous to




IN  THIE ARMY.                 285
"head" the very leading " captain" of this vast migration, for we found that, worse than the myriads of locusts
we saw east of the Blue, they would make a clean sweep
of the grass near all the spots where it is necessary to
encamp for water.  After a very long march a campground was sought at a small branch-fringed as usual
by a few trees, which seldom indeed deceive the waterseeker upon prairies. But the grass. was consumed, and
we were forced to retrace our steps for a half mile. Then
had the soldiers, weary with the long, slow march, in
addition to the usual toils of tending horses, unloading
wagons, pitching tents, cooking, &c., &c. (making their
extemporaneous settlement in the wilderness), to go afoot
this long half mile and return burdened with wood and
water.  Such is a peace campaign; but cheerfulness
makes all light. We had halted at noon at one of those
crystal streamlets, which in meandering, protect and
foster little green islands in prairie seas; sweet groves,
where every shrub, and vine, and flower seem to seek
refuge, and joyously to flourish, in defiance of the flamestorms which subdue all around:-like fairy bowers they
are in summer season; their cool recesses are vocal with
happy birds; they refresh and charm every sense, which
fatigue and privation make keenly alive to enjoyment.
An hour-almost of happiness-passes, and we take up
our burdens and part forever! Our camp mayhap will be
an inhospitable waste,-and such is the type of a soldier's
life. Indeed, it gives it all its zest: the excitements of
change and uncertainties; the unlooked-for pleasure, and
the difficulty overcome.
_Friend.-Never was there such an escape!  In fact,
you did not quite escape, and nearly spoiled your honest
but faint description of natural beauties by a lamer flight.




286        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Your " almost happiness!"-and " burden," of life did
you mean? for I never saw one lighter mounted on a
finer horse! But I really congratulate you on arriving
so safely in a sober " camp" in the midst of this very flat
earth.
"Amigo mio! Didn't you desert me on the eve of a
snow-storm, like many another friend of so honest mouthing! And is a touch of poetry a bad companion in difficulty and trial? Never a bit; it was the boon of a God
-Wisdom was ever feminine."
Friend.-Phew! The fit is on! Sorry I said a word!
I supposed frost and starved horses,-the sight of poor
women to-day trudging the weary road,-the driving poor
beef instead of the spirit-striving chase, would have tempered you to the philosophy of a very materialist (male
or female).
"Poor women, indeed! Three weeks ago they parted
from  every comfort-severed ties of kindred, even of
country, and their journey is scarce begun-a short 150
miles with 1800 more before them! What privations are
here; what exposure to bad weather, cooking unsheltered;
they must unsex themselves and struggle with all the
sterner toils which civilization happily casts upon the
harder and rougher male."
Friend.-Is it possible that many of them willingly
follow thus their life's partners for all the "worse?"
"Heaven knows! we passed an old lady of sixty
whom I have often seen kindly dispensing a comfortable
hospitality, and I cannot believe that she is content to
give up the repose which her years, her virtues, and her
sex entitle her to; but strange! she wore a cheerful
smile, and said her health improved."
Friend.-And that child-that poor little boy, who




IN  THE ARMY.                  287
barefooted limped along, holding to the wagon, how pitiable he seemed.
"Ah! but he may be one day the'gentleman from
Oregon,' who arrived in last night's cars, and to-day
takes his seat in his arm chair in the Capitol."
Friend.-Did you hear of the wedding last night?
"Between three days' acquaintances! a fine girl she
for a new country! Such are our best diplomatists for
Great Britain."
Friend.-But how cool you are; I thought it would
kindle your romance.  I'll wager my meerschaum  to
those Sioux moccasins, that you make a goose-quill flight
of it yet.  We shall read of a wild and wilful-a brighteyed nut-brown maid of the prairies, and her loves with
a bold horseman of the mountains,-of the eagle feather
nobility, whose love-tokens are scalplocks-perhaps a
dusky rival.
" Hold! I accept the wager; hand me the ink-horn;
here goes for the poetry of matrimony (writes):' Marriage on the Prairies-A  driver of oxen-a homespun
matter-of-fact lad, not a " leather-stocking," but clad in
dirty woollens,-having for sometime observed with longing eyes a fair friend of the /company-that is, for three
nights they had made their solitary beds on the banks of
the same streams,-and that she was the possessor of a
red blanket, an extra blanket; and he, the wretch, all
cheerless, and cold o'nights (and that accursed frost!)
with nothing between them  and the damp earth but a
worn and well-singed  rug; —forlorn and tempted by
such splendid attractions, and struck too with the obvious truth that two can sleep warmer than one, bluntly
proposed; the kind she consented, and their fates (and
blankets) were united!' As usual, a marriage de con



288        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
venance, and I defy you, friend critic, to make more or
less of it."
Friend.-Well done! But I can make more of it; did
you not hear the sequel?
"Upon my word I have not; what can you mean?"
Friend.-Pshaw! This actually occurred. It seems that
they had no taste for " stars for nuptial torches," and had
no "cave for bed," and so, unluckily converted a wagon
into a marriage chamber. Well, they had hardly gone to
rest, when they found the wagon in motion!-faster!faster!-which, all in the dark, threatened a crisis; and
sure enough, down it went, all topsyturvy into a great
hollow. A scurvy trick that of the young Oregonians!
May 26th.  We quitted early our camp-ground, and
soon approached the western and longest branch of the
Blue, which seems to fulfil its destiny, in leading the Missourians by its hospitable waters and fuel, in the direct
route of their new West; and, having ministered to their
necessities, turns them over-the "divide"-to the like
friendly offices of the Great Platte.
The muddy and shallow waters and treacherous quicksands of this river, are apt types of the political hacks
of a late day, who would make it, under its better Indian
name, Nebraska, godfather to an iniquitous new territory;
hastening without a shadow of the excuses of " destiny,"
necessity, &c., to break all the last and most binding
pledges of their country's faith, her voluntary and most
solemn and plain obligations to the congregated remnants
of many defenceless tribes of Indians, who own every
acre of its arable land.
We were struck with the beauty of this other Blue;
its bold hills are indented deeply with narrow vales of a
thousand forms, their soft green pleasantly relieved by




IN  THE ARMY.                  289
oaks. This, by way of introduction-for the road led us
hastily away again to a high plain, where we were for
hours out of sight of all of earth but its grass. But we
did overtake a long line of wagons, and a great herd of
cattle. Passing as rapidly as we might, we learned that
several such companies were still in advance.  The cattle
were grazing like buffalo on the prairie, and by estimate,
I hit upon their real number, of one thousand; and then,
by comparison, was assured that I had seen at once a
million of buffaloes. We descended at evening into the
wide savannas of the Blue to make our night-camp.
A few hours after I had written the last sentence, a
hurricane passed over us:-it was midnight, and intensely
dark, the rain falling in torrents; there was an unceasing
and strange roar of thunder; and the furious wind, rioting with the wet canvass of many tents, sounded a deafening accord.  The sublime does not frighten, and I was
filled with a joyful excitement. I imagined mammoth
and mastodon revived, and rushing to repel the invasion
of their ancient haunts,-exciting to madness by their
roars attendant multitudes of buffalo and wild horse.
Next morning a warm sun set us to rights by 9 o'clock.
We still ascended this western Blue; crossing now and
then the feet of the hills protruding into the bottoms;at times, winding through some great ravine or sandgully, washed by the rains of ages.  The bottoms are
sensibly lessening, but still a fourth of a mile wide; the
grass is still deficient from  drought; —but at evening,
turning short down from a high bluff, we found a sweet
little valley, of which we seemed the first discoverers;
and which, with its grove, was fresh and beautiful from
the night's rain.
May 29.  To-day-as yesterday-we marched some
25




290        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
twenty-two miles, following the stream, and passed near
night an emigrant company.  A cool wind has blown
from the north; pure and invigorating; such as it is a
pleasure to breathe.  The hills are diluvial-mere sandwith a soil that scarcely supports their sod. As the hills
break off near the river, they are washed into many singular shapes; and being white, stand in bold relief;
bright green generally prevailing. Many slopes beyond
the stream still show their old growth of grass strongly
resembling ripe wheat; adjoining are weed stubbles and
dead trees, which together are the picture of corn-fields
in new clearings.  These surround green meadows and
hills, with groves and shrubbery, which we easily imagine
conceal tasteful dwellings.  Such beauties, to be seen on
the stream  in a day's ride, must deceive no one; for
beyond, all is barren; and the vast territory, from near
the rivers to the mountains, has scarce a tree to the square
mile; and much of it is little better than a sand desert;
even game is seldom found.
Marching rather late next morning, with no expectation of parting from the pleasant guidance of our little
river, we found after a few miles, that we were ascending
very gradually a high plain; the " divide" of the Blue
and the Platte; no water was then to be found for twentythree miles, unless pools of the late rain. We found such
a pool at mid-day-and an emigrant party: this, for a
specimen, was ascertained to be composed of thirty-one
men, thirty-two women, and sixty-one children; twentyfour wagons, and two hundred and twelve cattle.
We also met, on the ridge, Pawnees with some two
hundred horseloads of dried buffalo flesh, which they were
conducting to their village, perhaps seventy miles lower,
on the Platte. This is a temporary supply. After get



IN  THE ARMY.                   291
ting their corn fairly growing, the whole tribe moves off
on their summer hunt.  On the summit, a rather singular
incident happened to me.  I fired a pistol at a troublesome dog, which was then chasing some loose mules; it
resented this attempt on its life in a quiet, but ferocious
manner; absolutely fastening its teeth in the ham of the
horse I rode; of course he kicked and plunged with great
violence, taking me by surprise,-for I did not know at
the moment the cause-and very nearly throwing me: I
then fired again and killed the brute. It happened that
the head of the long column was then about to meet the
Pawnees; and a report was just received of their having
robbed and maltreated some straggling emigrants'; altogether, they had a technical "alarm," of which-with
the excitement of my pitched battle with the dog-we, in
the rear, were profoundly ignorant; and a little while
after, I was astonished at a rebuke for my contribution to
it, of the two shots; the Colonel being equally ignorant
of my reasonable excuse, and of our private emeute.
We arrived, near sundown, on the hills of sand bordering the remarkable valley of the Platte. Between us and
the river lay two miles of level green savannas; the wide
expanse of the great river was in part concealed by Grand
Island, and its woods. It was a beautiful sight! —the
squadrons were gliding, two abreast, along gentle curves,
over the fresh green grass, which was brilliant in the slant
rays of a clear sun. The horses had a gallant bearing;
-fifty blacks led; fifty grays followed; then fifty bays;
next fifty chestnuts-and fifty more blacks closed the procession: the arms glittered; the horses' shoes shone
twinkling on the moving feet. It was a gay picture, set
in emeralds. Just then a hare, of the large black-eared
species, bounded away from the front, pursued by a swift




292        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
dog; it was a beautiful chase for a mile over the greensward, which we insensibly halted to witness.
The broad bottoms of the Platte are nearly level, and
but from two to six feet higher than the water; they are
composed of sand, through which the river expands to its
level from  bluff to bluff,-often ten or fifteen miles.
There is no rising above the universal flatness; and it
resembles the ocean mouths of most great rivers. You
have a horizon of green meadows, and sometimes of
water.
We encamped on the bank.  We had, in twelve days,
marched two hundred and fifty miles; and partly as explorers.
May 31.  The trumpet sounds of reveille called us
forth this morning, as usual, under arms; and we instantly
witnessed a scene of beauty and of sublimity, which the
wanderer over the earth sees now and then when least
expected. Above the river, and the unlimited plain to
the west, dotted with white wagon-tops and vast herds
grazing, densely black clouds, driven by a strong wind,
came thundering on wrathfully; the lightnings crashed
from mass to mass; from beneath, the muddy and troubled waves, almost black with shadow, seemed rushing on
in league with the Storm-Power, to overwhelm us.
But turn to the east! The sun is calmly rising over
a glittering expanse of water, and shedding a rosy glory
o'er half the heavens; but the west, from amid intenser
shadows, gives but a reflection of baleful hue! It seemed
a rebellion of the Powers of Darkness against the Spirit
of Light. As if to interpose, three hundred men in arms
then rose up in the very midst.
This was a wondrous reality, breaking, all unprepared,
on eyes that had been closed the still night long, and




IN  TIE ARMY.                   293
minds suddenly aroused  from  dreams of quiet homescenes.
How singular, that now, as I write on the same spot,
we have this scene reversed! The sun is sinking serenely
on the western wave; while in the east, a black cloud
mutters a menace of its power in the coming night. Sad
types of the world's doings, and ever varying but unceasing warfare of good and evil.
CHAPTER VII.
HAVING rested a day, the march was resumed up the
bank of the Platte.  A strange river and country it is!
You may ride all day without encountering an object to
break its sameness;-not a tributary-a ravine, a tree.
To-day the river formed again a portion of the unbroken
horizon;-is this the case with any other inland river in
the world?
A south wind-on our left hand-blew so fiercely as to
make it difficult for horses to keep the road; nevertheless,
we marched twenty-six miles-hoping to find good grass,
but in vain; and there is no fuel nearer than a mile from
the camp. At this point it is scarcely-strictly speaking
-a "bottom," for there is a rise of about four feet in
one thousand, from the water's edge: and the soil and
grass have the characteristics of hill prairie.
June 1.-The wind continued,-a perfect gale —nearly
all night; covering everything with a penetrating dust,
which it raised from the prairies, so lately soaked. There
is a breeze now from the northeast. Last night, sandbars




294        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
in the river on our windward side were bare: this morning they are covered with water; while others have appeared on the other side, now the windward: this phenomenon must result from the wind; its forcing the shallow
water of the very wide river from one channel to another;
they being divided by very extensive islands and bars,
which must assist in continuing such an effect.  Most
provokingly, we found this morning good grass extending
for ten miles.  After all, this strange river has its
beauties; nay, there is all the variety consistent with
the prevailing flatness. For miles, this forenoon, it was
charming: there was a labyrinth of islands adorned
with tree and shrub of every shape; some very long,
forming vistas,-others, mere dots of verdure, like emeralds set in silver: from thence, the bright summer day
was saluted with songs of birds; the cheerful and chatty
blackbird, the whistling curlew, the gay lark, and-queen
of songsters-the mocking-bird. Then, I observed a view
as strange as beautiful: long narrow islands were fringed
with tree-tops, through and above which I could see
extensive strips of water; then came the opposite bank
with trees just alike, which were relieved against the sky:
but water and sky appeared the same!-thus there were
two horizons of beautiful trees, which the eye could not
distinguish! This novel illusion extended for miles.
But the prairie does not always charm the eye or the
imagination: often its sameness and the monotony of
slow motion, lull us to dreamy thought; then happily, we
create of solitude a world of our own; or people it with
the loved absent, or the long dead. To-day, by an easy
association, I dreamed of the old warrior explorers from
Spain-ere her glory died-of De Soto, Cortez, and
others. Hernando Cortez! What a name is there!




IN THE ARMY.                   295
What hero of antiquity excelled him? None but Caesar.
His military genius resembled Alexander's; but-as in
the comparison of our Washington with the world's captains-with an allowance for the scale of action and of
means.  (His passage of the Delaware, and subsequent
campaigns, gave indications of what he might have done?)
The master-stroke of the career of Cortez, was his desperate march to Vera Cruz, and his attack and defeat of
the braggart Narvaez and his vastly superior numbers.
Truly, his were enthusiastic genius, energy, and constancy,
beyond all proportion to what Providence implants or
requires in man in ordinary times. In the world's story,
among all wondrous events, in Mexico alone History and
Romance form  a unity.  And Cortez, like Columbus,
was self-made; he forced his way over great obstacles,
with which that age heaped the paths of aspirants from
the low classes.
About noon we saw a company of some fifty wagons,
winding a toilsome way to the high grounds: it was
a proceeding as inexplicable as unusual, and gave rise
to much conjecture: at last it stopped; we came up
abreast-far to their right: then soon we learned the
truth: they were burying an infant!  It is Sunday;
forty-seven wagons and families form a procession, which
so slowly and painfullly leaves far its course to reach
that grassy hill which poetic affection would choose for a
place of sepulture. There they solemnly consign to the
unblessed earth,-to the howling wilderness-the father's
hope-the mother's love and her pride.  Pity her! it is
no common loss! Wonderfully must the outward pressure of hardship, severance from the world and its distractions,-the solitudes of wild Nature, the want of
kindred sympathies-strengthen the bonds of family love!




296,       SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Pity the mother! who bears a burdened heart to encounter
her rugged and unkind destiny.  Honor those hardy
woodsmen for their attentions! their hearts are right.
But "march! march!"-shift the panorama!  The
sandhills approach the river; they are elevated and picturesque; and here is the first prairie-dog village (and, as
I expected, their inseparable buffalo-grass): the dogs are
in great excitement, and never saw such sights. See that
old gossip with eager and important bustle, rushing with
the news from door to door! but she is now excusable,
and may tell the truth: behold hundreds of horsemen,a hundred wagons,-hundreds of cattle,-and sheep too!
But these marmots are a hackneyed subject. There are
beautiful antelopes too, which excite the hunters.  It
had turned sultry; white clouds shut in the warm atmosphere, and reflect back the heat like an oven lid: ahead
of us, for a wonder, is a creek-bed, fringed far into the
hills with tree and shrub; we pass on, and turn into a
sweet green bay (or bend) of fresh grass, and skirted
with trees: they are on islands, to which we must wade
for fuel; but are close by. Here we make our camp: the
sun shines out brightly, but muttering thunders marshal
forth black clouds: instantly the wide greensward is alive
with horses, rolling and neighing with the delight of release and welcome food: next rises, as by magic, a canvas
city: the men run over the islands for the driest sticks:
curling smokes soon give token of supper. We turn and
look back; at a little distance is a long line of wagons,
attended by lowing herds. Just now an antelope dashes
between, pursued by greyhounds; shot after shot are
fired; the poor animal is hit,-falters,-is pulled down.
What an animated invasion of this primeval solitude: the




IN THE ARMY.                   297
prairie nymphs must shrink in amaze! Since the world
began, this beautiful meadow was never peopled thus.
June 2.-There has been a hard rain in the night and
its quiet was disturbed by yells from an emigrant camp,
half a mile off: why they should thus play Indian, is beyond my comprehension.  We march early: the bottom
widens much, and is very barren; sand-hills, washed into
picturesque shapes, and partially green, invariably bound
our view to the left; and to the right, the river variegated
by islands: they nearly all have groves-not regular,
forest masses; but each tree has had room to develop,
and reveals against the sky, untrammelled beauties, and
in infinite variety.
We touched near midday the river, and found-which
is rare-a good watering-place; the banks are only two
or three feet high-are generally vertical; and the horses
then can scarcely be forced into the opaque water, which,
if only an inch deep, looks bottomless. It is surcharged
with mud, and millions of odds and ends of all things
near, which its great swiftness keeps suspended. Here
too, was found clear, cool water in a well only two feet
down; just above were the remains of many Indian fires,
and buffalo bones, and the willow frames of old wigwams.
We are too early for the backward grass season; but
here it has been swept off by ten thousand buffaloes.
After a fatiguing march of thirty-two miles in eleven
hours, we encamped on a spot which, having escaped the
annual fires, the buffalo have neglected. There is no fuel
but bois de vache.
June 3.-We have rain at camp every night; but it
seems to extend little further; and the dust, when there
is not a side wind, is so annoying, that we sometimes
abandon the road. This morning, at marching, blue-black




2' 8       SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
clouds overhung the sand-hills, to which they imparted
their hue; and their irregular sketchy outline presented
a singular and beautiful appearance; but it must be a
very desert that is not pleasing in early summer morning! And if this flattered us with hope, of even the
picturesque, we were this day disappointed.  We had
once, however, an unbounded water view up the river; and
the fast growing signs of buffalo gave some excitement to
the dull march.
When it was time to stop, there was great difficulty in
finding any grass. We turned at last into a long strip
of meadow, between trees and bushes-so very rare on
shore-and the river-bank: the buffalo has been before
us, but we have found some scant grazing;-it is buffalograss,-very backward, and looks like curled gray horsehair.
Three fine horses were picketed beyond the screen of
bushes, out of sight of camp, or any other animals; as
usual in such cases, they were uneasy; imagining, perhaps, something fearful in the bushes; or more likely,
were excited with the fear of being abandoned in these
unwonted solitudes: be this as it may, about sundown
they broke loose, and scampered off for the hills: some
men were hastily mounted and sent in pursuit; but they
have returned late, unsuccessful.
June 4.-Ten men were sent at daylight, on a new
search: I feared it would be unavailing, as horses will
join and run with buffalo; but fortunately, the trails of
their ropes were discovered in the heavy dew, and they
were brought back in two hours.  Meanwhile, two empty
wagons were sent back to Missouri, with a small escort,
with broken-down horses: "all flesh is grass," and the
grass is very poor.




IN  TIIE  ARMY.                 299
This proved the great day of such excursions: the day
of meeting buffalo.  It was toward noon that they appeared in large numbers on the hills at our left. Immediately the fever rose; and as party after party prepared
and rode off for the chase, the coolest heads became
affected: we knew that even better opportunities would
certainly occur; but the first fresh view of the chase became almost irresistible to all but old hands like myself.
We see them charging helter skelter, up hill and down,
without prudence, skill, or regard for horse-flesh: the
perverse wind brings from the rear clouds of dust, which
adds confusion to excitement.  Let me attempt to describe a fragment of the scene: a horseman is seen dashing at a gang of twenty or thirty; he appears to penetrate their close order, and they are dividing into two
parties; he has selected his victim: a puff of smoke appears; the report is heard; then a wounded buffalo rushes
forth alone, but followed by the hunter, who is reloading,
and loses ground: now he gains again; is very near; we
eagerly expect his discharge; but no! they are diverging
rapidly! the horse has shied in affright, and the buffalo,
too, has dodged: the horseman pulls up and tries again:
now he regains his place near the flagging animal; the
smoke is seen again, and the report follows more slowly:
they have stopped; the bull is tired-enraged and desperate: he is at bay: with a toss of his vast head, he makes
a sudden and fierce dash at his enemy!  Our hunter
stops not to show his skill, but flies with prompt good
will: fifty yards is all, and both again have halted:
another shot! and now the bleeding and baffled beast
turns to fly again; and there! they have disappeared over
the top of that far off hill.
An hour or two after, a horseman is seen gradually




300        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
nearing us; he approaches very quietly, and puts on an
air of business-like coolness.  Oh! nothing extraordinary
has happened; he even appears unconscious that a tongue
is conspicuously dangling to his cantle.  It is his trophy!
and, when green, to my taste, good for little else.
Meanwhile, the " Forks of the Platte"-the junction of
the "North" and "South" branches-has been passed,
and few but the guide has known it. Cheated of knowledge and view of a principal point of note! too bad!
We have got far out from either river, and can just see
the water of one, and a fringe of trees beyond, which,
no doubt, mark the course of the other. We are ascending the South Fork, but shall cross over in a day or two
to the North. Now we stop to water at a small running
branch, the first we have seen; it is without a tree; a
buffalo calf approaches, and is evidently trying to join our
cattle; but some men turn it off: there is the mother,
which a hunter pursues up the steep hills: it is exhausted,
but his horse refuses to go near; he has fired-probably
ineffectually: we pass on. At 3 o'clock, we encamp at
some ponds, in the middle of the bottom. Many horseloads of meat are brought in: the buffaloes-nearly all
cows and calves,-are not yet fat.
We pass continually companies of emigrants; they all
have many breeding cattle. The girls must consider us
a lively feature of this dull region (or they are not common girls). For our part, it is reported that one of them
has been seen actually-that is, evidently, invested with
a " tournure;" who would believe the tyrant Fashion held
so wide a sway!
June 5.-This morning at daylight the buffalo had
approached so nearly among the horses, that the officer of
the guard sounded an alarm: they were driven off with



IN  THE ARMY.                   301
out accident. We were soon abreast of the point of bluff
between the two rivers: it is eighteen miles above the
junction; we are 30~ west of the meridian of Washington
City.  We are now fairly on the buffalo grass: its sod is
a near approach to wooden pavement. This branch is not
half so large as the main river; but the general character
is exactly the same; near the bluff, but extensively winding, is a kind of slough; the river water soaking through
the sands here, rises perfectly clear: there is a new feature-large bare spots, white with salt.
Again to-day-and it was very warm-we had buffalo
chasing, chiefly by officers, who killed an abundant number.  I now first indulged; mounting my led horse-too
spirited and fractious for ordinary use-I passed forward
to meet a herd that had just forded the river, and I knew
would cross to the hills a little forward of us, against the
wind, as their instinct invariably leads them: it was given
them, it is supposed, for their protection; but they carry
it to an extreme, which I have often observed, led to
their destruction.  But my buffalo are in motion, and
will not wait a discussion: as I passed the head of the
column, a friend thrust into my hand a six-barrel pistol;
taking it almost mechanically, I dashed forward after the
herd, which are now at desperate speed: my noble Brown
is in his element, and goes joyfully to work; he soon
places me alongside a fortunate bull, whose destiny it is
to test the value of this patent plaything.  With some
difficulty, I succeeded in snapping it twice, and then consigned it, indignantly, to the uttermost depths of my off
holster: I now  draw  my old Harper's Ferry "buffalo
slayer," and select a barren cow-round behind as a
barrel-and at five paces-all at full speed-deliver my
fire; the shot soon stops her; she keeps her head toward
26




302        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
me, and I fire several times before her quick motions
allow me to strike her full through the lights; the blood
instantly spirts from her nostrils, and she is soon out of
pain-cut up and in a wagon.
We passed this morning an emigrant camp; they were
lying by,-had lost oxen, frightened off by buffalo,several persons were sick,-a poor woman at the point of
death.  This Oregon should be a paradise!
The hills beyond the river are wilder and more elevated
than before-all there looks arid, sandy, desolate; this
side, we wade through sand; all is strange: prairie-dog
villages; antelopes; large gray wolves; buffalo attract
but little attention or remark; but of all, how strange
seems the eternal wind-the high south wind; to what
purpose does it day and night so fiercely blow-blow!
A flat muddy river, sand, buffalo, and wind, are the universe! But no; ungrateful; three rose-bushes bloom in
my tent, and I have almost ice-water from a hole in the
sand close by: and that beautiful hare so gracefully
bounding over the plain, was it not made for man's pleasure? or food for wolves?
June 6.-The clear stream on which we encamped last
night, is a very singular one; it rises in the flats near the
river; but does the river supply it? it is clear and cold,
has quite a current, and contains fine large fish, which
the river does not.
It was a sultry morning, but soon arose the south wind,
which has blown a gale with most unpitying persistence
all the day. After travelling a few miles, the guide bore
down to the river; on the way, we were diverted by the
pursuit of a young hare, by a number of men on foot;
it was captured after many laughable tumbles, occasioned
by its doubling.




IN THE ARMY.                  303
The column marched right through the river; it was
about eight hundred yards wide, and from eighteen inches
to three feet deep; the quicksand made it laborious and
tedious. The regiment then dismounted, and the horses
were held to grass wherever it could be found. I passed
over alone to a long island near the shore; it was grown
up with grass, young willows, and the most delicate and
beautiful rose-bushes, in bloom, and very fragrant.
I stood on the point of the island and gazed down the
river, from whence shone the morning sun; our wagons
were slowly making the winding passage, followed by
cattle and sheep; to the right was a vast meadow, which
insensibly swelled into green hills; on its bosom, like a
string of white beads, were seen extending to dim distance, the tops of Oregon wagons; a few buffalo seemed
calmly looking on; the hills gradually melted in perspective, to a faint, blue horizon, terminating in the water
view; for the river here, adorned by many green islets,
and sparkling in the sunlight, extended below, as far as
the eye could wander; on the left was a vast range of
sand-hills, on which, for ages, the rains and winds had
worked their pleasure; exposing, at places, great masses
of white marl in fantastic shapes; in the foreground,
armed men and horses lounged or grazed at ease in picturesque groups.  The high wind, though monotonous,
gave music to the foliage, to the tall grass, and to the
rippling waves; these waves, and the unbounded reach of
river, reminded me of the ocean; that ocean, whose
visible grandeur expands the conception to compass the
vast earth,-whose ceaseless motion types the moral unrest-the troublous action of the toiling world.
The music of the wind, which hushed or softened to
accord all other sounds-the happily mingled beauty and




304        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
majesty of the view-my pleasing and isolated position,
and the repose,-snatched from  that action which now
was only pictured to the eye,-had an irresistible charm:
I fell into that dreamy state, in which, while the senses,
keenly alive, are intoxicated with pleasure, the soul is
soothed to happy thought; is winged by beauties to the
high and abstract sphere of its nobler elements; or,
skimming the fairy arches cast by Memory to the oases
of the desert life behind, there meets in rosy bowers the
absent loved! then, blissfully oblivious, we soar again
with flattering Hope, to fall, with sudden shock, in the
darkness of the land ahead.  For, alas! while thus we
dream, stern Care plucks us by the skirts: we shrink, and
struggle, and linger, to drain the cup of happiness; but
our earthly element drags heavily; a voice, trumpettongued awakes us to the REAL.
Truly, the trumpet had sounded; the men, the horses,
had gone from careless rest to labor; all the living elements of the scene had disappeared; the sun himself was
veiled; and I was now in a wilderness, as tame and dull
as it had been to every careless mind-to every untutored
eye.  But the fleeting beauty, so faintly described, was
real! and its enjoyment was mine!
It is wonderful how many go through the world with
eyes shut, with minds unawake; but without the keen
relish of the beautiful, without souls sensitive of lofty
emotion, they have the enjoyments of animals, and are
dull to painful reactions.
June 7.-A winding valley, a hundred paces wide, is
overhung by a lofty white cliff on one side, and by the
thick and most glossy foliage of ash trees on the other;
a crystal streamlet murmurs amid the grass, over its
gravel bed; a crescent silvers just the top of the preci



IN  THE ARMY.                  305
pice; whilst between it and the tree-tops, the stars look
down through this pure dry air, with a wondrous lustre:
here and there camp-fires, dying out, cast an uncertain
and pale light upon white tents; the horses, hungry and
grazing in the obscurity, doubtful of this strange spot,
make uneasy sounds, always answered by the rest. Since
nightfall, an emigrant company, belated like ourselves in
the passage over to this Northern Platte, passed at random through our straggling camp-blinded by the lights
— in much danger of upsets, at which women and children were plaintive, and to the detriment of picket ropes,
and discomfort of our horses and tired men.
I was lying on the grass by a small fire, greatly
fatigued, but with face upturned in dreamy enjoyment of
all this beauty, so strange to the long wanderer on treeless plains;-a sentient beauty! —of the heavens and
earth,-which seemed to look down upon me as a longexpected guest! My Friend joined me.
Friend.-Ah! gazing at the stars? The three mortal
hours we passed on the verge of the table land, whilst
the guide sought a clew to this strange labyrinth of hills,
or mountains"And found it; much thanks to the buffalo, and to
the aid of their paths"Friend.-Were enough, with an empty stomach, to
evaporate an ocean of romance.
" Considering too, how dry it was; we had not drank
for thirteen hours."
Friend.-Considering too, you slipped off alone to the
island yesterday, and " fell asleep;" but, as I verily
believe, only dreamed; for, in our silent ride to overtake
the regiment, you were still rapt, past all observation.
26"




306        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
"What on earth was there to observe? there was sand,
wind, and ten miles!"
Friend.-And nothing more?
" There were wild hills to our right; and I remember
a great ravine, a torrent bed, which I thought would
make an excellent ambuscade: nothing more."
Friend.-Then you overlooked something strange, and
twenty times repeated, a natural paradox; a miniature
and extravagant illustration of the formation of all our
Western valleys, where the banks are always the highest
ground; namely-little ridges of sand and gravel, only
four or five feet over, all coming from ravines, and crossing the bottom to the river, and evidently made by water;
little aqueducts, with scarce a rim  to hold the water!
The wind changed, too, and a whirlwind on the river
raised the water in a column of steam.
"Ah! I dare say, I was still half asleep; the wind
and waves, and monotonous cries of cattle-drivers on the
river, were very composing, a regular lullaby. But what
a mighty table land was crossed to-day, the very top of
the earth! While no sense was cognizant of anything
higher, this plain seemed to slope away! The total absence of forest is essential to this grand illusion, and I
doubt if Europe present an instance of it."
Friend.-They seem favorite resorts of buffalo; we
observed it on the Arkansas. Those were grand chases
we had this morning!
"To be so unsuccessful; the buffalo run down a slope
at racer speed; their strength is principally before, and'they let go all holds.' "
Friend.-This oasis is truly beautiful! and with a
surrounding wildness and desolation which have a real
grandeur; for miles, we seldom see over a gunshot in




IN  THE ARMY.                  307
any direction; it seemed that nothing but water, which
had everywhere riven the sides of the steep hills-could
have found the outlet, which, in fact, it made; then the
thin column, far winding, now disappearing in part, and
next seen in the most unexpected positions; the grizzly
bear alarm, and the strangely echoed shouts; the clouds
of dust bursting through the gorges!-nothing gave promise of the quiet nook which delights the senses, while it
ministers to every want.
" Thanks, for the broken wagon which kept us here,
whilst the rest went on to the river."
Friend.-This must be a kind of Indian Post-office:
we found arrows and lance-poles singularly marked and
disposed; and various colored strips of cloth with evident arrangement; a record by symbols, which no doubt
is plain to them.
"As I gaze up from this deep vale-now so dark-on
that planet so serenely bright, the little opening between
rock and leaves seems but the gateway to a path of ether,
never so short and inviting! Methinks I see a pitying
smile, which reveals the hollow littleness of all our eager
struggles."
There are times when the lethargic soul shrinks even
from itself; is numb, nothing can excite it; we forget to
hope! And with some such answer, or soliloquy, to
which I remember no reply, I must have slumbered,
and dreamed; but my acts and troubled thoughts were
lifelike, and of which the stars were certainly no portion.
I would not repeat it, but I was tortured by a dear friend,
who seemed to know me not, or to be estranged; and
there was a spell as in a nightmare-which always made
me powerless to clear up the cause or exact nature of
the calamity. This heart-pain half aroused me; but I




308        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
scarce knew where I was: there was a sense of something
wrong; but my apathy, or a kind of ennui of sleep, was
so profound, that I lay wondering whether or not I still
belonged to the world; and so, must have slept again; for
then I surely dreamed. A night alarm in an ancient castle
led me to the gate. And though all were then dumb with
fear, I knew that a flood was coming down far slopes and
threatened death; but beyond, I looked and saw, on a
plain which was a lofty mountain top, a vast multitude;
the earth's habitants, mingled, I thought, with celestial
visitants; for their faces shone; they sat motionless on
horses, and wore helmets and bright mail; but Terror
was on the multitude, and a baleful and uncertain light
shone from their midst. Then, there was a rush downward of strange animals, like elephants and horses; which,
I thought, would trample down all that stood in their way:
next, the mailed warriors charged, with lances set, upon
flying men on foot, who were like no others I ever saw;
of pale red countenances, and strange garments and
mien; they too were armed, and resisted, but many were
slain; and, as they drew near, the warriors fought too,
with each other; and thus was supernatural war brought
with awful reality, to the very door, which I struggled to
maintain against them  all.  Suddenly I was in a hall
with several of those who had fled on foot, and asked
them in the Spanish tongue, who and whence they were?
and was astonished that they knew such language, when
they answered, "From Egypt."
Next I was conscious of flickering gleams of light,
which seemed reflected from cavernous arches, and of
rumbling reverberated sounds. I was half awake with
awe, which fancy again was softening, when a glare of
light-a crash, as from the crags over head, and a sudden




IN  THE ARMY.                  309
fall of water, recalled me to life, and my aching limbs to
motion; and I stood upon my feet in'Ash Hollow.' "
CHAPTER VIII.
JUNE 8th.-The excessive fatigue of yesterday's interesting march,-the mournful and wild dreams, and the
storm of the bivouac, having all passed away with the
night, the sun rose with dazzling beauty upon the romantic glen. Nature, as if in the freak of a most smiling
mood, has there assembled in the desert the admired features of her favorite regions: the contrast is delightful at
meeting; painful at parting.
Thus, wander where we will, man is at best,
" A pendulum betwixt a smile and tear."
But sometimes our frail mechanism goes all wrong; the
tear is a shower; and the smile, but a ray of fleeting
light.
Leaving then only too early the most sparkling and
rich foliage, the white cliffs and the crystal streamlet of
that narrow valley-which some wretch has named Ash
Hollow-we were soon monotonously clanking our rusty
sabres over the flat sands of the Northern Platte,-this
twin offspring of mountain and homely plain.  But truth
to tell, just here, for fourteen miles which we marched today, this bank of the river is broken into hill and ravine;
the white sand scarce shaded by weeds, and the bluffs,
near by, deeply washed by rains, were wild and desolate;
and there were cliffs of marly rock; and one of indurated




810         SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
clay, under which we marched, was honeycombed by thousands of swallows, which gaily circled and twittered over
our heads.
We passed also two gravel beds of streams, now dry,
that were positive ridges; and actually, on one side,marked by a slight margin of grass,-without a bank!
Amid all the arid desolation, as usual, were some beautiful delicate flowers; honeysuckles, and the white and
fragrant bloom of mosses. I thought they redeemed and
softened it-as sometimes Pity the desolation of heart.
It was the fate of a melancholy buffalo, whether misused and misanthropic,-shunning the vulgar herd,-or
exiled as an old and hardened sinner to this solitude, to
encounter us here; and it was the unhappy destiny of a
very Nimrod amongst us, defiant of scorching sun and
sand, oblivious that no centaur, he rode a hapless horse,
and taking to his eyes the " scales" of this ancient beast,
to give him impetuous chase. The bull truly fled with a
lean and hungry speed; but followed, like a manifest
destiny, the beaten track careless of all evasion, right on
-on! Seduced, perhaps by this facility, my friend, the
Nirnrod, pursued thus mile after mile, straight on!-disappearing at times, to be marked again by the shining
sand he ever scattered to the air; and finally we saw that
he had fired, and the chase disappeared. This unerring
and deadly shot after so long and pertinacious a pursuit,
gave him credit with us all; until at last, we came up;
and there surely lay the bull: but, strange to say, no
scrutiny could discover a wound! —and soon the marvel
was, how he had lived so long; he had only closed a longstanding mortgage to the crows;-the ardent hunter was
not there to dispute possession  He had suddenly be



IN  THE  ARMY.                  311
come interested in some undiscoverable object which happened to lay far from the road.
June 9.-The country is rather less wild in appearance, and the bottom smoother; but there is still much
bare sand; limestone rock occurred in the dry bed of a
wide water-course.
The pest of a light dust-bearing breeze from behind
may be noticed, as giving a color to one's thoughts, as
well as linen; although, in truth, both are habitually
chequered. Pity it is, that petty annoyances muddy so
much the current of our lives.
"'Tis the vile daily drop on drop that wears
The soul out (like the stone) with petty cares."
Happy his philosophy, who weighs them as dust in the
balance! iFor my part I manage generally to laugh at
material troubles; for those that attack the soul, I commend as a remedy such a chase as another friend of mine
took this morning.  He was following at the heels of a
small herd of buffalo with that reckless rush, to which in
glad excitement we then abandon ourselves, when a great
bull, just before him, popped into a gully; the horse
plunged on him, sending his rider sprawling, but with
accuracy between the bull's horns! The first of this interesting group to recover his legs, was the horse, which
ran off with alacrity several miles. Next the bull rose,
and shook himself, very much with the astonished air, I
imagine, of the lassoed Kentuckian, who "liked to know
how that was done."  Meanwhile my friend is on his back
at the bull's feet; "imagine his pheelinks."  I once
threw a bone at such a beast, who, "smarting with his
wounds grown cold," reared up and brought down both
hoofs with a precision and force, that mashed it to powder!




312        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
This bull, perhaps, took the affair for a practical joke,
and giving the gentleman one good look-which he will
remember-with great good nature ran off. Had he been
wounded, or distressed and enraged by the chase, he had
killed him!
We met here a number of boats laden with buffalo
robes; and although drawing but eight inches of water,
they had been some two months descending the hundred
miles from  Fort Laramie; the hardy boatmen, who are
also the trappers, hunters, &c., of the Fur Company,
spending perhaps half the time in the water.  Only for
a short season in favorable years, is the river navigable
at all.  This attempt was now abandoned; and wagons
and carts had been sent for to transport the packs back
to the Fort!
These men, called Engages, are generally French Creoles-and form a small class as distinct in character from
any other, as is the sailor from his fellow-bipeds who dwell
upon shore. But with, if possible, less of forecast, he somewhat resembles the said sailor-isolated on the prairie
desert, as the other on the sea.  He has a patient and
submissive obedience, with a seeming utter carelessness of
privations, such as would drive a seaman to mutiny; with
the same reckless abandon to some transient and coarse
enjoyments, he is a hardy and light-hearted child of nature
-of nature in her wildest simplicity: and in these, her
solitudes, he receives a step-mother's care, and battles
with a stout heart against her most wintry moods. He
resembles the Indian, too, and is generally of kindred
blood; he possesses his perseverance, his instinctive sagacity, and his superstition. A very Gascon, he has the
French cheerful facility of accommodation to his fated
exigencies, and lightens all by an invincible and conta



IN  THE ARMY.                   313
gious mirth.  He is handsome, athletic, active; dresses
chiefly in buckskin; wears a sash and knife; lives precariously, generally on flesh alone; is happy when his
pipe is lit; and when he cannot smoke, sings a song. He
is armed and vigilant while at his severest labors.
He joyously spends his ten dollars a month in alcohol,
tobacco, coffee, and sugar, and in gaudy presents to some
half-breed belle; paying the most incredible prices for
these extravagant luxuries.
June 10.-The nights are cold; the mornings warm,
until about 9 o'clock, when a breeze springs up, ending
generally in a very disagreeable gale. We came in sight
early this morning of the "Court-house," a hill, or
immense mound, which strongly resembles such a building, with wings; it rests imposingly on a bluff; the sides
are near a cream color, with apparently, a black roof.
The country is much smoother and pleasanter, and we
passed to-day a tributary to the Platte, some sixty yards
wide, and resembling it in its characteristics.  Our camp
is on the river, and without wood fuel. The Court-house
appears a half mile off; in reality it is four or five. We
came in sight to-day, also, of the Chimney Rock, at a distance of thirty miles; it had the appearance of a tall post
seen a mile off. These celebrated formations seem the
frames of lofty hills, which the elements have wasted
away; they seem formed of marl, or a conglomerate to
which the sand gives the character of mortar.  I discovered to-day the most beautiful species of cactus I have
ever seen: it is a single sphere resting on the surface of
the ground; the inner leaves of the flower have the most
delicate shades of pink and flesh color, and the outer a
pale lilac. A small and delicate species of ground-squirrel
abounds: it is remarkable for cheerful and exquisitely
27




314        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
musical notes; resembling, but clearer and pleasanter
than any bird's.
Those of us with any anatomical pretensions, are in a
regular puzzle over a skeleton head of a small quadruped,
which was found here; it seems totally deficient in holes
or sockets for eyes: the verdict is, I believe, that it is a
nondescript.
Friend.-And how do you like "A Glimmering Light
on Mesmerism," which I perceive you have been reading?
"It shows a research quite extraordinary for a soldier
-generally exposed to much literary privation; his inquiring and sceptical mind has been excited and puzzled
by the strange developments, or pretensions of this magical philosophy."
Firiend.-In our day the deep searcher of the unknown,
the wonderful, the occult in science, or religion, fears
not persecution, but rather neglect; he cannot interest
the public mind; it is the mechanical age, and the greatest triumphs of science are the most practical: it is the
age of steam.
" Only too true! Other works of genius are scarcely
recognized: poetry is as dead as astrology: life is exhausted, and the mind overpowered in the attempt to master a vast accumulation of facts."
Friend.-Poets have turned cosmogonists; and the
arcana of nature present the only field for speculative
science; and there truly is infinite room for observation
and study, to form synthetic solutions of these mysteries,
still the dreams of " our philosophy."
"But even science is at fault-philosophy at a discount. The public mind is occupied with the theorism of
demagogues and infidels, who, abandoning themselves to
licentious speculations on human destiny, attract multi



IN  THE ARMY.                  315
tudes of fanatical followers, whose minds they bewilder,
and whose morals they debase."
Friend.-What you say can scarcely apply beyond
those hotbeds of vice and folly —the great cities; their
immense command of the press, which taxes all the powers of steam, should not deceive you by its clamor-as it
does themselves-as to their real magnitude and importance to the world.
" Has it never occurred to you, Friend, that we ought to
be astronomers?-the science came from desert plains."
Friend.-Yes, and botanists too; I think no one can
be on the prairies without observing much, the motions of
the stars.
"I believe that nearly all think only of eating, drinking, and sleeping!  But nothing perhaps, has been so
universal a subject of thought and conjecture, in all ages,
as these beautiful mysteries. What food for poetry, they
have ever been! What strong imaginations were required to invent the constellations! But, as if our true
links to a higher sphere, they have led the human mind
to a grander reach,-to a more profound and brilliant
success, by far, than in any other science."
Friend.-Do you believe the stars are inhabited?
"Yes! I hold with Dr. Chalmers there; although the
Book of Genesis has it, that they were set in the firmament to give light upon the earth; it is not credible that
the scheme of creation, with all its wondrous economy,
-with its infinity of microscopic life, should include
globes far vaster than our earth, and destitute of life."
Friend.-Perhaps microscopic life may be an essential
element of the mysteries of life, death, and reproduction.
And may not those immense spheres be the balance weights
of the machine called the universe? necessary to all the




316        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
conditions of that wonderful problem of the essential motions of the earth; their creation cost but the word of
Omnipotence.
" The thought might have force, in view of our planetary system  alone; but how with the innumerable other
suns and systems disposed irregularly at a distance that
the mind cannot conceive; telescopic stars that give us
no light?"
Friend.-What sort of beings then, do you suppose to
dwell in these innumerable worlds?
" Men! Are we not told that we are in God's likeness?  Human intelligences, emanations from Divinity,
and partakers of God's nature, can differ in myriad worlds
but in degree: there well may be a greater or less perfection and prevalence of nobility and beauty of form;
just as is the case of our different races.  I imagine that
in other spheres, the souls of men have new trials, and
also rewards, in other stages of existence; progressing
toward the infinite, in intelligence and happiness. Shall
we sleep in death many thousand years? Scripture indicates a suspension of our final sentences, until the day
of judgment."
Friend.-Some astronomers tell us that no planet is
fitted to support life; they are too hot, or. cold, or soft.
"Perhaps the reflection escaped them, that the torrid
zone would be fatal to an Esquimaux, or a Polar bear!
Astronomers would do well to confine themselves to the
limits of exact science; their theories are no more reliable than those of other men; they are too prone to clothe
their sublime though naked framework of discovery; with
a poetical drapery of mere speculation, which-being little
more astonishing-is apt to be confounded with fact."
Friend.-Well, yes: stick to facts. Can you not, from




IN TIlE ARMY.                   317
these unknown solitudes, from this virgin soil, contribute
your mite to the cause of science?
" Undoubtedly there is opportunity: but the soldier,
like others, to succeed must devote himself (and oftener,
is compelled to confine himself) to his profession. But
my eyes are open; perhaps I have at times observed
something new.  But how much knowledge is necessary
to decide what is new? For instance, it may have been
observed and recorded, for what I know, hundreds of
years ago, that the slightest culture-the mere disturbance
of the soil-in barren regions, excites new growths. About
the gardens of our prairie outposts, spring up weeds,
shrubs, bushes, and trees, far away from any the like.
But it is my observation, and inference, that the earth
everywhere contains the germs of growths suited to the
climate; that these germs or principles of vegetable life
are a part or property of soils, lying dormant, in some
cases for ages, ready for an exciting cause and the proper time to be developed for the use of man, or other
animal."
Friend.-I have heard that the plantain and Jamestown-weed have followed the footsteps of the pioneers of
our continent,-making their progress from  ocean to
ocean.
"And it is true, so far as I have had opportunity to
observe; and I have heard the same asserted of the partridge and bee, and certainly with a color of truth. But
a very great obstacle of science, is an impatient proneness to theory, leading to a hasty assumption of doubtful
facts.
" It would now be easy and comfortable to assume, that
my guard and sentinels are vigilant; nevertheless, by
27



318        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
your leave, I shall, as philosophically as possible, betake
myself to its investigation."
Friend.-But a last word-you should fail not to note
in your diary, however dryly, all natural phenomena;
they may come in play, and serve another if not yourself-au revoir!
CHAPTER IX.
JUNE 11th.-We marched ten miles over the smooth
level, and turned to the river for water. While there, I
sketched on my knee a striking view, including the Chimney Rock, still in front of us. Mounting my horse and
riding on at the signals, immediately the scenery which I
had admired faded from thought and memory; there had
been rain in the night; and the rare atmosphere and the
heat of the bright morning, gave rise to a soft and varying mirage,.which was thrown, like a gauze veil, with a
charming grace and exquisite illusion, upon scenery of
strange beauty: truly"At airy distance with majestic motion."
Although as indescribable as the dream structures of
uncontrolled fancy, the ever varying and fantastic beauties seen this day, leave a vivid impression; and I attempt
faithfully, however feebly, to paint them; for they must
surprise, if they give not pleasure.
On the left and front, was the continuous hill range, of
infinite variety of shape,-the wild sport of the elements
-and of coloring too: the white and yellow marl and
sand; the green grass; the dark blue cedars on the tops
of mound and cliff; and the moving procession of shadows




IN THE ARMY.                   319
from the light mist clouds; for the life and grace of motion pervaded every element of the scene.  On the left,
the square bluffs were like the Hudson Palisades, with
here and there a pilaster of silvery white; right in front,
stood the lofty white Chimney Rock, like the pharos of a
prairie sea; beyond, were white cliffs with green domes;
broken in places into cones and pyramids; still further,
but towering, was a majestic mound, in the shape of our
national Capitol; more to the right, and looming afar
over river and plain, was "Scott's Bluff," a Nebraska
Gibraltar; surmounted by a colossal fortress and a royal
castle, it jutted on the water; thus sharply defining from
the pale blue horizon, of the unbounded river beyond, a
vast bright bay, reaching fifteen miles, nearly to our feet.
We are moving on: a mile is passed; the pillar seems
no nearer; GibraTtar has now its vast sides shaded a
beautiful blue; but a low bank of cloud from the right,
extends before it like a belt. We move on: the Palisades
seem to advance and retire; to rise; to darken, and shine
again like silver! Another mile: Gibraltar sinks; the
cloud increases and grows black.  A mile on,-and this
cloud has suddenly become a prairie-hill close by! rising
on the river flats (as I never saw one before), extending
to the water, which it actually overhangs seventy feet!
Refraction cannot now flatten and obscure it, and show
us-as it did-the mirage sea with its lovely shore beyond; and, joining that in front, make it an island, or
suspended cloud.  Gibraltar is eclipsed; but to the left,
now is seen a bright river, flowing amid groves, into a
great city: noble buildings are there; turreted cathedrals; colossal ruins: certainly we shall soon be at its
gates! A  mile on;-the mound is now behind; the
mirage river has vanished; the city fades from view; but




320        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
the mountain fortress looms again, far round the bright
waters of the bay; mighty bulwarks now appear; bastions and turrets; all of bright colors: the summits positively swarm  with guards and sentinels!  Can they
possibly be cedars? Is it near and real, or very distant?
Where are we?  The mountains are in masquerade and
mazy motion! Cannot the expanded eye detect phantasma?  Is it the common earth?  What magic is here,
to new-fashion the solid hills into fantastic forms! Fairy
fingers weave the shining mists into robes of air-born
grace and beauty-which the sun illumes, but not elucidates!
It is the simple truth.  I know  now, that the vast
bay was not river alone, but not how great a part was
mirage; and that strange mound, which, though so close,
at first appeared not, and was then mistaken for a cloud!
But we move on; the pillar of Pale Rock is at length
passed-a mile to our left-grand, solemn, stern-like a
monument to Time-the silent desert record.  Still on!
Yonder to the left, a vast palace appears; it is no ruin,
-the roof and chimney stand; a near hill had hid it.
And now, we gradually ascend a smooth plain to a great
elevation; and scenery grand and beautiful without illusion opens to view; there is an amphitheatre of five miles
extent; a semicircle ends near our left at the." Capitol;"
every variety of shape and color too, which the earth
contains, seems assembled round: there, is evidently a
Titanic brick-kiln, with no particle of verdure; pyramids;
white hills, with domes of green; cliffs crowned with funeral cedars: in front, majestic Gibraltar,-far distant
still-strangely colored gray, and blue, and white; and
above all, the top of Laramie Mountain-ninety miles




IN THE ARMY.                  321
away! Just then, an antelope was chased, far through
the amphitheatre.
We begin to descend toward the river, as dark clouds
gather; and we discover beyond it, the white lodges of a
great band of the Sioux; the master-spirits and terror of
the plains; their horses-a numerous herd-are grazing
in the meadows. We hasten to a camp-ground at the
water edge; for the wind rises, and thunders reverberate;
our tents are raised just as vivid lightning sends the first
big drops pattering to the earth. The Indians are now
mounted and shouting; and with their robes and long
hair streaming in the gale, dash fearlessly into the broad
waters of the river, which look black and threatening
with the shadows of the storm.
This day, whose light has shed such wondrous beauty
on these wild scenes, is nearly done; and the exhilarating
thunder-shower over, I cast my looks around, eager to
enjoy some glories more; and, lo! a shining pillar, far
away among the clouds! All the outer world is lost in
misty shadow, save this prairie pharos: of all the visible
earth, the sun shines only there! It stands a pillar of
silvery light amid the dark shadows of cloud and rain,
and coming night. And now it fades to gray, and appears strange and phantom-like, amid the solemn clouds.
Night.-In the silent camp the friends are lounging in
the mouth of a tent looking out upon the starlight.
Friend.-This is a memorable day; and we might pass
here, perhaps a hundred times, without being greatly
struck with the scenery, which the elements seem to have
combined to adorn for our delight; but it must be the
most picturesque on the river. I see you have been making copious notes?




322        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
" Yes; do you apprehend that any effort of enthusiasm
can add embellishment to the subject?"
_Friend.-I must confess, not.  There are natural
beauties; such as the coloring of sky and cloud, which
painter or poet scarce dare attempt to express; nevertheless, there may be in the effort, an ill done or apparent straining for effect, which may deceive a reader
into the suspicion of exaggeration.
"This'Scott's Bluff, is a wonderful mountain; we
are miles off yet (we saw  it at fifty); and to the last
moment of light, there was the same chameleon change of
coloring; the guards and sentinels still!"
Friend.-One view of it, I am told, resembles strongly
some picture of Stirling Castle.
"In the excitement of the visit of the Sioux men and
women-did you see the'Chimney Rock' suddenly reappear?"
Friend.-Admirable! A lofty pillar of fire amid the
dark clouds! its base was hidden by distance; but I was
as much struck by the sunset, or rather with the strangeness of its apparent renewal after almost darknesswhich the clouds must have occasioned; when they broke
away-but it was at the north-what a startling but calm
beauty and splendor of coloring appeared; and how long
it lasted.
" I saw it all; there were still dark clouds at the northwest, where the sun went down."
_Friend.-Our friends, the Sioux,-of the Oglollah and
Brule bands,-came in with the thunderstorm, with a
fine, indeed startling effect; but for the women, I should
have imagined they were dashing through the river to
attack us. I was delighted with their fearless and hearty
bearing; but the contrast of the men and women is painful.




IN  THE ARMY.                   323
"The Sioux are rather my favorites: their freedom
and power have imparted to the warriors-the mensome gentlemanly qualities: they are cleanly, dignified,
and graceful in manner; brave, proud, and independent
in bearing and deed. Their misfortune, their deep stain
-the law of barbarism-is their treatment of women;
they apply to them the brute law of the stronger!
"Woman, the martyr! who rises only, and rises ever,
as mind feeding upon knowledge, ascends to the throne of
humanity!  Oh! how powerful is education with its first
impressions; how strong the harness of association and
habit-despotic mental habit, which chains the very soul!"
Friend.-Truly, these squaws bear the mark; brighteyed as some of them are, a few only seem really to have
souls. But, do I understand you, that you esteem woman
equal, or superior to her mate?
" I have made that ever a question to myself. We say,
Nature has given her an inferior part to play; that is,
has assigned to her duties, which we choose to call inferior: but there, she actively exhibits beautiful and high
qualities, which we seldom possess, and underrate; how
magnanimous is their patience, their self-denial and devotion! They are different from  men.  How generally
in society, with the audacious but seldom denied claim to
civilization, do men (alas! uneducated), like savages look
upon them and treat them as drudges, —laborers in their
service and ministers to their pleasure. And what ever
saves them  from  this common treatment, and the real
degradation which it inevitably entails?"
Friend.-Religion?
"Religion truly, elevates mankind; but, compared to
women, how very few men indeed are religious.  It is a
proof of her naturally superior refinement; and doubtless




324        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
her recompense for many ills; but it exaggerates her
virtues to a humble resignation, of which the obtuse and
hard hearts of men only take advantage. No! the remedy
is the appreciating refinement of mental culture, delicacy
of taste, a high sentiment of the Beautiful-in a word,
the spirit of Poetry! How palpably did the Providential
romance of an otherwise barbarous age-of chivalryrescue her from slavery and place her so near her proper
level!"
Friend.-All must observe that the noblest, and in
general the most eminent men, evince the highest regard
for women; that a profound and deferential respect for
them is the first characteristic of a perfect gentleman.
But would you, like the knights of old, convert love into
worship? Do you advocate the blind devotion which led
to violence and bloodshed?
"No; you mistake a concomitant for a cause; the redeeming virtue of those ages was this romantic devotion,
but tinctured, of course, with prevailing rudeness and
crime. Love, always powerful, was ennobled and purified
by martial romance; and, thus allied, was successful
against barbarism.  Worn out by change, romance is
gone; but poetry, its vital element, is left; and its refined spirit alone can save love from materialism and
degradation, and elevate its objects, so that man can bow
with respectful devotion. I view woman as born superior;
and often nobly sacrificing herself for our sake; the
minister to, and our only hope for happiness. Striving
always to make us more worthy of ourselves, and of her.
How apt is vain man to undervalue those powers and
qualities which he possesses not, or cannot understand:
-as rude workmen despise the physical weakness, or the
untutored hands of the student, who ennobled by science,




IN THE ARMY.                   325
pities the lowliness of their mental estate. Woman generally lacks that mathematical element, which in man,
makes him often a little superior to some admirable machines; but she possesses instead, intuitively, certain
delicate and refined perceptions, which to my mind are
the'impress of divinity.' We admit her mind develops
more rapidly than ours, and call it precociousness; we
choose to forget that this superiority lasts while she is
receiving the education, which we cruelly stint. She is
our superior in those qualities of our cultivated nature,
which are so high, that the mass not only possess them
not, but do not recognize them; but this is only the case
when our physical advantage is forgotten in the poetical
refinement of a just appreciation; —the homage which
makes, if it do not find her worthy.
"Ah  at humble distance, with all my soul, I have
sought to study and understand some of these pure and
beautiful natures, whose beauty was a subtile essence-a
divine revelation through features that charmed not vulgar souls; a beauty that inspired a poetic-a pure and
lasting worship at its altar.  How earnestly then should
woman cultivate and encourage, by every means, this
romantic devotion, which is so essential to place and sustain them in their proper sphere. They have to combat
in the world the sneers, the vices, the sensuality of fallen
natures; but man's loss of their just appreciation, is a
sure step towards degradation and crime, which involves
poor woman too.  All honor, then, to Poetry-the aspiring effort to admire, to develop and to praise, the Beautiful,-the Noble,-the Grand!"
Friend.-There are noble minds, who would pronounce
much of that extravagant-too double-refined for any
application.
28




326        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
"And there are ingrained conventional prejudices,
which warp the views of the highest natures."
Friend.-You believe, then, that human happiness is
to be found in some reformed and higher state of civilization? Have I not heard you envy the fate of these red
sons of nature-some wild chieftain-with two or three
slavish wives!
"I might envy his freedom  from factitious laws-the
tyranny and fanaticism  of society.  But as for'human
happiness'-ha! ha!-suffer me to laugh, I pray you (if
you will not call that happiness). Happiness would be
the infraction of an immutable law; that all sin, is certainly not more inevitable, than that all should be unhappy; those who suffer as little as they enjoy, have a
calmness which may deceive. I prefer at times to disturb
the philosopher's equilibrium, and to brave his fated reactions for the joy which for the moment sublimes both
soul and sense.
"Strange! that laughter, man's lowest attribute, is
distinctive; while the smile, which seems borrowed from
Heaven, and which can confer rapturous joy, if not happiness, is shared, I think, in a slight degree by brutes."
Friend. —Heaven help you of your mood!  I give
it up.
"My mood?  I was never in a more sober mood; I
feel as cool and practical as any downtrodden woman."
Friend.-Then your antitheses are rather overpowering!
"Yes, he that follows where truth may lead, will ever
startle; I am still at my theme. I attack this semicivilization, which halts when woman is only no longer like
these brutish squaws; and, with the help of the faithful
drudge herself, builds up a conventional system which




IN  THE  ARMY.                       327
defies the powers of human reason; nay, with an infernal
perversity, resists the very light of heaven. But it is a
law  that we ever seek  happiness.  And it is this free
desert air alone, that emboldens me in the search, to
question the dogmas which society holds so precious.'But let me quit man's work, again to read
His Maker's spread around me.'"
Friend.-Nay, I go; luck to your prairie philosophy.
It is the hour of rest. May your dreams be rational!
My old friend has been patient to-night; but I trembled
lest he should discover the verses, at which his coming
surprised me!  And with all his prosaic affectation, he
had nearly forestalled them by his tribute to the close of
this day, which indeed might, altogether, have inspired a
buffalo. And if so afraid of his ridicule, how shall I
venture to record  them?   Well, three verses may be
overlooked, as it is a first offence.
The sun set in clouds;-but this glorious day
Parts not in gloom; the thick veil is rivenAnd river and sky in lovely array,
Are radiant now with the light of heaven.
Like an aurora, or the flashing trace
Of an angel's flight, to the utmost north
The glory shines: unwilling to deface
The Beautiful, Night hovers o'er the earth.
Gently the chameleon colors fade,Slowly ascending to the zenith's height:
Till lingering darkness buries all in shade,
And Light and Beauty bid the world good night.




328        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
CHAPTER X.
JUNE 12TH,'45.-It had been determined, rather than
cross the river, which deepens as we ascend, without
losing its quicksands, to take to the hills and turn Scott's
Bluff: accordingly we this morning marched three miles
still nearer to that mysterious mountain-and, without
being disenchanted of its colossal ruins and phantom
occupants, turned toward the left, and ascended the wild
sandy hills. I anticipated a dull ride over ground as
uninteresting as barren: but a new surprise was in store
for us: having ascended about sixty feet, we saw before
us a plain, more than a mile wide, but narrowing, winding, and walled in: the ascent was slight, and it was apparently a river-bottom; in fact, it was marked everywhere with drift, cedar-logs, &c.-the thought, " Can this
be the Platte bottom?" came intruding on us with its absurdity. Thus we continued, winding round "Gibraltar,"
ascending insensibly this smooth inclined plain, mile after
mile, thirteen, fourteen miles!  Then, before we were
aware, or we hardly knew how, we found ourselves riding
above-looking into-a deep glen, with large trees, cedars,
shrubbery, rocks, and crystal waters! And where is its
outlet?-nowhere, but high up, too, on the smooth grassy
plain, on which, in flood times, it had cast its drift; yes,
all over its twenty square miles. We had got very high
up, without observing it; but to complete even a faint
idea of the remarkable scenery, I must add that this
singular flat valley is walled in everywhere by lofty bluffs;
their gray sand, and clay, and marly sides, often vertical;
their tops crowned by cedar forests. This ravine is very




IN  THE ARMY.                  329
precipitous; our horses could with much difficulty be led
down to the water; wild fruits grew luxuriantly amid its
rocks and trees. It heads very near the mountain top, at
a spring of icy coldness, and without exaggeration.
Thus after winding, as one might have thought, through
a strange opening around Scott's Bluffs, the surprise that
we were at the top of a mountain gap came with an almost
boundless view;-on our right-to which we must now
direct our course-far below and twelve miles off, were
the grassy meadows of Horse Creek: beyond, its blue
hills-then, far away above many a treeless hill and
plain, rose to view the famous "Black Hills," and Laramie
Mountain, their highest peak, towering at eighty miles.
We turned then to descend another plain, of twelve
miles, inclined to the southwest; a puff of air from the
west came now and then cool and refreshing; but the
reflected sunshine was literally scorching; without sensible
perspiration, great blisters were burnt over our faces. It
was paying dear for the avoidance of a little quicksandso thought, doubtless, all the animals. We pitched the
camp in the pleasant meadows of Horse Creek, near its
mouth; it is sixty yards wide, and resembles the Platte,
but has clearer water.  We are enjoying the rarity of
good fuel, from some dead cedars.
Seeing to-day an antelope with a young fawn, some
three hundred yards from the column, I rode to the spot
to endeavor to secure the little creature for a pet; they
are famous for their fearless attachment to their young,
and their skill in concealing them. This noble animal
had another enemy afield: an immense dog, greyhound
and bull, came rushing to attack her; the coward expected her of course to run; but maternal instinct had
conquered fear; she coolly stood her ground, until with
28*




330        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
one judicious and vigorous spring, she received him with
a butt that sent him rolling over and over! And he feared
to repeat the attack, but followed her a little, at a respectful distance, as she leisurely moved off. Now, hundreds,
perhaps, had seen the fawn there a minute before, in the
open prairie; but she had hid it, so that three of us
searched it for half an hour, in vain!
These antelopes are second to the buffalo in numbers:
of the first, we saw none to-day; they are disappearing
like the elks, which are said however to have migrated
permanently northward.  Fifteen years ago, they were
found close to Fort Leavenworth; now we have come over
five hundred miles without seeing one. Can we wonder?
I have felt on this march, as if still among the settlements;
continually amongst emigrants with their herds; meeting
one day boatmen, the next, villages of Indians: and this
migration, which here, where streams or springs are so
rare, must necessarily follow these great water-courses
(which seem providentially disposed to lead it on) unfortunately meets on them the great mass of buffalo; for
they too must come to the water;-their day is passing.
We are now in advance of the whole emigration; two
of their men are with us this evening; they speak of the
great discouragement of the women, who even wish to
return; and many men have been at times of the same
disposition; they have lost many cattle in this first
quarter of their journey.  They scarcely know where
they are going; and these men eagerly question our
guide-who has been in Oregon-on the simplest and
best known points.
I have read of small animals, marmots perhaps, and of
our squirrels, migrating in vast bodies: overcoming with
patient energy but great loss, every obstacle which they




IN  THE ARMY.                  331
blindly encounter; moving ever onward, impelled by some
inscrutable instinct, or destiny.
This migration severs the ties of home and country;
leaves lands of exceeding richness, which may be purchased after years of free occupancy, for a dollar and a
quarter the acre, with navigable rivers throughout, and
pushes on with women and children, to the dangers and
exposures of an immense journey-they hardly know
whither-but that it is beyond the advantages and comforts of society. Is it a providential instinct? And was
it the same that three hundred years ago impelled its
many thousands of victims to the dangers and diseases of
the new American world?
It must be so. Should we then admire as praiseworthy
the energies and the sacrifices of these first laborers in a
great work?  Or can we, regardless of prospective results, deny them magnanimous or patriotic motives; attribute all to the wantonness of discontent,-a diseased
appetite for excitement and change,-to a restless habit
of vagrancy?
I hope I am not uncharitable, if I incline to this last
opinion.  Are we not taught to recognize in the history
of man, that God shapes evil to good results?
There is a comet at the northwest; and a sudden and
violent norther threatens the overthrow of our frail habitations; and so, to lightning and thunder, we have a
rattling accompaniment of mallets and tent-pins.
June 13th.-Twenty-four miles to-day, over a desert!
hills and river valley equally a desert! In this last, we
have seen many large cotton-woods, seemingly the wrecks
of a blasting tempest, mere limbless or distorted stems of
trees; and others, the bleached and desolate drift of a
flood.




332        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
We came over a lofty bluff almost overhanging the
river, which commanded a view over vast and sternly
sterile plains, breaking up at last into confused mountain
spurs, and dim blue peaks beyond; but to this gloomy
grandeur the river, far winding amid white sands and
green islands, and the foot of many another precipitous
bluff adorned with evergreens, lent an element of softening beauty.
Friend.-What oppresses you? You seem in mournful
harmony with these silent wastes!
" Behold those spectral ruins of trees, strangely white
and gleaming in the starlight!-they are melancholy.
But no-it is a day that ever, since it first gave me unhappy life, leaves its influences upon me."
Friend.-But better resist such a mood.  How do you
succeed with your diary now? We are passing remarkable scenery; most wildly picturesque; and there is
always some incident.
"What is written, may always chance to be printed, if
not read: how charming then to the busy denizens of the
world, whose very brains have received an artificial mould,
to read such incident! Now if I could only introduce
the word'dollar,'-good heavens! it was never heard
here before! tis enough to disturb the ghosts of the grim
old warriors, who, I dare say, have fallen here in defence
of this narrow pass: fighting for what? at Ambition's
call? not, I hope, of intriguing diplomatist-better for
Love, or mere excitement sake.
"Whom then shall I address?-the mock sentimentalist? and begin the day:'Our slumbers this morning
were gently and pleasantly dissolved by the cheerful
martins, which sang a sweet reveille with the first blush
of Aurora, at our uncurtained couches.'  Or the statist?




IN  THE ARMY.                   33'Not a sign of buffalo to-day; it were melancholy and
easy to calculate how soon the Indians, deprived of this
natural resource, and ignorant of agriculture'-but I
should soon get too deep."
Friend.-But this soil is devilish shallow.
"Few will follow me pleasantly or patiently through
these solitudes, though sometimes'pleasant places.' I
care not at all,-but that I feel I may fail to awaken the
sympathy of any, while, like an artist retouching with
kindled affection his painted thought, I linger to answer
the appeal of Wasted Beauty to so rare appreciation."
Friend.-This profoundly silent desert-like a world
without life-awes and stills the senses: but the soul is
excited to speculations on the origin, the history-if it
have one-and the destiny of these boundless wastes.
" Or surrounds itself with the airy creations of fantasy;-or, mournfully wanders back among the dim
traces of joys and sorrows gone. I address not, then, the
shallow or hurried worldling; but the friendly one, who
in the calm intervals from worldly cares, grants me the
aid of a quiet and thoughtful,-and if it may be,-a
poetic mood!
"Ay de Mi! Our life is a sad struggle;-our material
nature with its base cravings,-its cares for animal comforts, and all the ills of the flesh, preys upon and tethers
the soul, which yearns for the Beautiful, the Noble, the
Exalted;-essays to soar in that sphere, whose types are
the bright stars of heaven! Or, clings to that electric
chain of Love which binds humanity-and in the olden
time drew down angels!"
Friend.-A false and self-consuming fire! that sometimes burns to ashes the hearts and hopes of proud men,




334        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
and leaves but wrecks, mournfully floating upon the dull
currents of life.
"And welcome, then, the rapids and the final plunge!
Yes: the struggle is ever, and leads us sorrowing to the
dark portals which shut out the life beyond.  There may
this holy fire from heaven find more happy sympathy.
Here, amid ages of pain, it grants us but moments of
felicity.
" Methinks, amid those bright stars, studding the blue
ether of this moonless summer night, I see a seraphic
face, that smiles with more heavenly light to rekindle the
wasted torches of Life and Hope!
" Fond traitor! constant friend-blind guide-beautiful
Hope! that leadest us wandering ever,-heartless, but
living still.
"Yes! Time, the inexorable,-Time, the physician and
the conqueror,-Time, the hopeful, rolls on, dragging us
at his chariot wheels, wounded, suffering, unpitied,-but
living still!
"Ah me! We are not only chained to the rock, but
galled by all the thousand links,-the petty cares of life!
Therefore, I love best this desert wandering, where we
are free of all tyrannies; and our wants are simple and
few. Nature, our beautiful mother, enthrones us on her
bosom,-and to elevate our thoughts and aims, displays
all her wondrous and harmonious ways and works; or,
with sublime simplicity, points upward to the stars!
" There is nothing petty here. When we hunger, we go
forth to the spirit-stirring chase; when we are weary, its
furred trophies give us welcome rest; and our rude beds
have a starry canopy, whose beauteous mysteries fix our
wandering thoughts, until blessed sleep draw the curtain
of oblivion."




IN  THE ARMY.                  335
CHAPTER XI.
JUNE 15th.-Near Fort Laramie.-Ten miles over
desolate hill and plain brought us yesterday to the Fort,
on the west side, and a mile above, the mouth of the
pretty little river of the same name; the water is clear
and rapid: the Platte,-here, about one hundred yards
wide,-is not much larger, and more resembles it, than
itself as found below. Fort Platte, belonging to a rival
company, stands near the confluence.
I came on in advance, and spent an hour at Fort Laramie; it is about two hundred feet square, with high walls
of adobes, made of the clay and sand soil, just as it is
found; the dwellings line the wall,-which is a part of
them,-and have flat adobe roofs, and wooden galleries.
The Fort swarmed with women and children, whose language-like their complexions-is various and mixed,Indian, French, English, and Spanish; they live nearly
exclusively on dried buffalo meat, for which the hunters
go at least fifty miles; but they have domestic cattle.
Here, barbarism and a traditional or half civilization
meet on neutral ground; but as a struggle, it is certain
that the former has the best of it; although it has the
disadvantage of being represented chiefly by femalesboth softening and impressible: but their credentials are
ill-looks, dirty, and revoltingly coarse habits, &c. &c.;
while the male representatives of civilization have the
orthodox, although questionable aids of alcohol and gunpowder, avarice, lying, and lust.
The struggle is at close quarters; civilization, furnishing house and clothing; barbarism, children and fleas.




336        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
The Colonel had sent a staff-officer ahead, to examine
the grounds for a camp: but arrived before he had completed his labor. The rival companies, anxious for the
reflected importance of the military vicinity, rivalled each
other in praise and misrepresentation of the merits of
their respective rivers-as to grazing.  The result was,
that the Fort Platte scale at first preponderated; and up
the Platte we marched,-two miles, without discovering
the grass; then it struck the beam, and we passed over
an immense and very steep bluff into the Laramie scale,
-I mean river-bottom; where we did find good grass,
and camped three miles above the Fort: but the extra
two miles over the lofty dividing-ridge, was terrible work
for wagon mules; and it bruised, I fear, fatally, a pet
antelope fawn, which I had in a wagon:-it lies now in a
neighboring tent, uttering from time to time cries and
moans, which are distressingly similar to those of a suffering infant; said its soldier-nurse, with real pathos, " It is
thinking of its mother."  I purchased another at the
Fort; and a goat foster-mother.
We meet the Sioux to-morrow in council; about nine
hundred warriors are expected to be present.
The weather is very cold: fires and great-coats are
comfortable.  The dwellers here —who, however, lie in
emulation, give discouraging prospects of grass toward
the South Pass: this staple of the country is so scarce,
that our three hundred horses, moving daily, can hardly
subsist. The trade of this post is principally for buffalo
robes; nine thousand were lately sent off by the American
Fur Company: and how many by the other company I
do not know.  They get about two thousand pounds of
beaver skins a year.
June 16th.-Colonel Kearney with an escort, and at



IN  THE ARMY.                  337
tended by the officers, rode this morning to the plain
between the forts, and there met the Sioux in council.
There were about twelve hundred, of both sexes: three
flags on lofty staffs, first caught the eye; two were our
national flags,-the third was said to be of Indian design;
it was crossed diagonally by two bands, said to represent
the winds; beneath were clasped hands; above, disposed
in a regular curve, were nine stars; a little beyond, the
people of Fort Platte had prepared chairs and benches,
backed by a curtain of elk lodge-skins; and the ground
was carpeted with buffalo robes; the Indians, all seated,
faced us in a great semicircle, behind which was another,
of women and children, who, in fact, also completed the
circle in our rear.
The Colonel made a short plain speech, which hinged
on the Oregon road, which the Government determined
should be kept open.
Bull's Tail, the principal chief (the buffalo, be it remembered,-for this confounded name needs some apology,
-carries aloft his tufted tail in combat, like a black
flag!) Bull's Tail, then a gentlemanly and mild-looking
man, made a short and sensible reply, which promised
well that the Colonel's advice would be obeyed; and turning to his warriors, addressed to them  some words to
increase its impression. Presents, then, were placed in
the centre: and the chiefs selected seven Indian "soldiers," who, receiving equal portions of every article, distributed them at their own discretion: their awards being
final. I looked back over the screen at the distribution
to the women, of strouding, beads, &c., which, of course,
was very interesting: the mirrors were given, however,
to the young men! Now, this unsophisticated trait will
probably be interpreted as a compliment to the women at
29




338        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
the expense of the men; or, the reverse: it was, I think,
a mere exponent of the relations of the sexes; their
women work and drudge; their men are idle, and have
more use for mirrors in self-adornment: just the reverse
of the picture of a certain stage of civilization.
In the midst of these proceedings, a squaw commenced
a chant, in which she was soon joined by many women
and some men, with a very fine musical effect; it was expressive of satisfaction and thanks.  The Sioux,-they
call themselves Dahcotahs,-are large, fine-looking men;
wear their hair long, and are cleanly and showy in dress;
adopting our fashions when they can; a great many wear
our fur cap.
Several shots were then fired from a howitzer, to their
great satisfaction: and the Colonel told them that at
night he would send up stars to the heavens, which should
" tell the Great Spirit that they had listened to his words;"
meaning that some rockets would be fired. We then returned to camp.
It is still very cold; some snow is said to have fallen:
the latitude is 420 15'; altitude above the Gulf, 4470
feet: but they say that the winters are mild, with very
little snow. Fort Pierre, a trading post on the Missouri,
three hundred miles distant, is the nearest point of navigation.
The emigrants are overtaking us: but to-morrow we
march, leaving one company to await our return.  My
poor little antelope is out of pain-it is dead: and it is
rather singular, the other, at the Fort, was killed to-day
by the kick of a horse.
June 17th.-We set out this morning in a cold drizzle;
about ten miles from camp, at the Warm Spring, I left the
regiment to make a detour of several miles to the Platte,




IN  THE ARMY.                  339
to examine a point which had been spoken of as suitable
for a military station; the river there emerges from the
most advanced spurs of the Black Hills; a little below
muddy and tame, it here gushes a sparkling mountain
stream from a pass which it completely occupies, between
precipices of bright red sandstone two hundred feet high.
Standing a little lower, over the water boiling through a
still narrower passage which it has worn through a ledge
of rock, I could see through the gap many loftier hills or
mountains of red sandstone, all, far and near, crowned,
shaded, or dotted with dark cedars; beautiful it was,and even grand, with its wild confusion.
The squadrons marched thirty-six miles to Horseshoe
Creek; so far, because although they repeatedly touched
the river, water and grass together could not be found
nearer. Wearily I followed them all day over this broken
and desolate country; its gray sterility unrelieved by a
single and mournful growth of gray artemisias. There
were now and then striking views of mountain ridges,
covered with cedars, which sometimes dotted them  as
regularly as hills of corn,-and walled with red rock
precipices; and through which it was hard to believe the
river passed, so utterly invisible at a little distance was
any opening; but the picturesque it seemed had not
tempted any unfortunate wild animal into these barren
wastes.
Right pleasant then at last it was, to see down a slightly inclined and singularly smooth plain, two miles wide,
the camp, and horses grazing, in a horseshoe bend of a
creek with green trees.
June 18th.-We had a thunder-shower last evening:
and the stream, which we found with a very little clear
cold water, soon ran boldly, nearly a blood red. After




340        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
some half dozen miles winding over high prairie hills,
they admitted us to the river meadows; but soon confined us to a narrow pass, which we threaded pleasantly
enough, through cotton-woods, willows, and rose bushes;
and these now generally mark its locality; and then,
rather than again ascend these precipitous bluffs and remain among them for several days, and perhaps without
grass, we forded the river at a swift rocky place; and
were near losing our beeves,-to say nothing of the drivers.
At four o'clock we discovered a narrow grassy bottom,
where we gladly encamped under some fine trees; and
have plenty of dry drift for fuel. It seems a settled matter now that we should have two hours of great heat at
midday, with the other twenty-two cold and boisterous.
We saw to-day a great quantity of cotton-wood sticks,
which had been cut about three feet long, completely
peeled of bark; no doubt by Indian horses: they might
be called Nebraska corn-cobs-and are particularly scarce
too.
We saw two deer and some hares in the course of our
day's wanderings; the result perhaps of some eccentricity,
or misfortune. This last explains, at least, the presence of
a famished squaw and two children, whom we surprised
hiding from us near our camp ground.  Some animals
have an instinctive fear of strangers, but not of their
kind,-this human fear of their kind-this natural mental
impulse,-mark inferiority of mind to instinct? Or, that
mind makes us more fearfully savage than brutes?
But to their story,-which without a word of language
in common, we gathered from the language of signs;
(perhaps other animals do the same). The children, about
eight years old, are the daughter and nephew of the squaw;
she is an Arapaho, but married among the Arickaras;




IN  THE ARMY.                   841
her husband with four lodges of that nation were attacked
near the Missouri River by the Dahcotahs; the men were
all slain, and their families made prisoners, or slaves; but
she, from friendship to her native tribe, was liberated
eighteen days ago; and was provided with a small pack
of provisions, a dog to carry it, and a fire-steel; (now
that is a scale of outfit that would please the most stingy
quartermaster, or travelling husband extant!) Her provisions being exhausted, she fell upon a military expedient, of eating the "transportation"-generally oxen and
mules with us, but the dog is quite as good; (I once knew
a sergeant to starve three days before he could make up
his mind to kill a favorite mule which he had ridden a
thousand miles: a kind of prejudice or instinct-often
the same thing-which I admired).  The dog, then, was
killed for food; and some of it is still on hand; and
since we have fed them to an amount that would be dangerous to a white, they have returned to the dog, which
is certainly well singed, but rare to a fault-usually the
case with the game course. If they survive such high
living, they will be sent to-morrow to Laramie, in the
charge of a dragoon.
June 20th.-We marched yesterday but fifteen miles:
being greatly impeded by the stout artemisias, and little
hillocks of rubbish washed by overflows or flooding rains
about their roots and stems.  We passed a wonderful
place, apparently a great basin, near a mile through,
where an adventitious mass of white clay and sand, granitic sandstone, trap-rock and friable conglomerates,black, yellow, and gray,-had been the sport of rain and
flood; there were all shapes, mathematical and fantastical; among ruined towers and pyramids, we passed over
hard smooth plains, level and inclined, of a dazzling
29*



342        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
whiteness; which, with the infernal heat and dust, had
quite a dizzy and bewildering effect; there was no token,
not a reminiscence there, of animal or vegetable life.  If
any but a dragoon or an Indian in great straits has ever
been there, or shall ever return,-and it shall have the
slightest use of a name,-that name I give and patent,
"The Devil's Adobe Yard."
Our progress was suddenly arrested by the unfordable
river, and a precipitous bluff, which was pronounced utterly impracticable for wagons. It was a nearly cubic
mass of iron ore one hundred feet high; but as it was
necessary, we got over; and enjoyed too, a fine view of
the Southern Mountains and their majestic Laramie Peak.
The country began there to show a tinge of green, which
attracted some straggling buffaloes and antelopes: and
there we first saw a bird unknown to us, but called here,
we find, "sage-hens;" they are fine game, and probably
a species of grouse; but they have a much longer tail,
carried differently, and are so large, that we at first mistook them for turkeys.
A poor fellow shot himself in the arm that afternoon,
and suffered amputation.
This morning we left our surgeon and a small party to
return slowly to the Fort, in care of the wounded dragoon.
We then crossed back to the south side of the river,
and have had a long march; enjoying an unusual variety
of scenery and incident. We were forced into the hills
again, which were smooth, and found ourselves near the
forest clad mountains at the south: we came down to a
fine stream, with groves (so beautiful for their rarity);
and here some buffalo came dashing down a long slope
beyond, and to the pleasure of this unlooked-for change




IN  THE ARMY.                  343
of scenery, was added the excitement of lively action,for many dashed off to the chase; the game took various
directions, and ran long and with much incident; and in
this vast wild amphitheatre we watched them with intense
interest.
There are times thus, on the dullest march,-and in
the dullest life elsewhere,-when, as by accident, a general excitement comes as the sudden whirlwind when the
sun is reigning with the calmest tyranny; delightfully
refreshing, like a shower to drooping flowers, they give
our souls new spirit and power to rise from the moral
drought of routine and dull material life.
But our creek had little grass; and so we ascended to
high hills again, while over the mountains to the southeast rolled dark thunderclouds, which threw a purple, a
strange and mysterious light, on the wild scenery; the
storm seemed to pursue us; but suddenly, in a bright
gleam of sunshine, we looked down upon the welcome
river, and struck at last the welcome road. But then we
saw another storm, coming from the northwest, and this
gave us some dashing rain; but soon all was bright and
calm again; and at length we were gladdened with the
view of Deer Creek, whose little forests made it doubly
inviting. And on entering them we surprised two deer,
which were shot as they ran.  And fat deer they were,
poor fellows!
It is half-past nine at night. The storms, the labors,
and the excitements of the day are over; all have enjoyed the food which toil has sweetened; and many the
soothing pipe; the horses graze quietly around at the pickets; the camp-fires burn irregularly through the woods;
weather-beaten troopers are grouped about them, silently
drying their fresh meat on little scaffolds and boughs;




314        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
-leafy domes, supported by natural pillars, which art has
imitated, are illumed here and there by the fitful firelight;-some sprays of foliage now and then catch and
throw back bright gleams from the solemn obscurity;the broad moon has risen and begins to silver some tree
tops, which are gently stirred by the light airs, that waft
over the deep azure the fleecy fragments of the shattered
storm-clouds; harmonious now is the tree-frog's monotone,-in all this is the spirit of beautiful repose; the
true harmony and economy of Nature, which at night
renovates her creations by universal sleep.
Sleep has its fearful dreams,-Night its storms,-man
his passions: God over all, in all has wonderfully mingled Good and Evil.
CHAPTER XII.
JUNE 20th,'45.-We marched to-day twenty-seven
miles to the crossing-place of the Platte River. In all
this distance there was grass but at two spots; and few
buffalo were seen.
I was riding near the head of the column, over the bare
prairie, when suddenly, within twenty yards, up sprang a
grizzly bear! He ran about eighty paces, threw himself
about, and stood some moments gazing at us with his head
high raised.  "Grizzly bear!" was shouted down the
column, and gave an impulse to the true hunters, which
strongly tested the punctilios of discipline: a half dozen
of us spurred to instant pursuit: away we galloped,
toward the mountain, at greater than buffalo speed.




IN THE ARMY.                  345
That bold hunter, Capt. M., the foremost, headed and
turned the bear-round a slight swell-when some of us
suddenly met it; whereupon, a dragoon's horse, in great
fright, gave its rider a tremendous fall; his danger added
new excitement,-several shots were instantly fired, and
a ball fortunately striking its shoulder, turned off the
furious beast toward the river; near it, he took refuge in
a very small hammock, where Capt. M. very rashly followed. The bear then came at him with expanded jaws
and a savage roar, which sent the horse about with a
desperate leap, which made the saddle pommel tear open
the Captain's vest to his chin! The bear then dashed
on, into the river, where, at twenty paces, a load of large
shot was fired into the back of his head, with no apparent
effect; three men followed him there, and might have
killed him, as he ascended with difficulty the opposite
bank; but he escaped into an almost impenetrable thicket
of plum bushes, where, it being very extensive, we sought
for him in vain.
It was a singular thing, that the moment the bear
sprang up before us, near the same spot a very large and
perfectly coiled rattlesnake began so loud and threatening
a rattle as to divide the attention of many with his bearship.
A hare shot to-day, although quite poor, weighed seven
and a half pounds; the legs were twelve inches long. I
supped on a " sage-hen," which I shot with my pistol; its
quality and flavor seemed to partake of both the grouse
and chicken.
June 22d.-Independence Rock.-Yesterday we forded
and left the Platte, to turn confused masses of mountains
with picturesque red-rock precipices, which there begin
to wall it in; it is called the Red Butes. We passed one




346        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
spring, with a little grass, about half way of our march
of twenty-seven miles to another.  The last half was the
most desolate and wild region we had seen: high plains
where there was nothing but clay or sand, and a few
stunted, dusty artemisias, interspersed with great rockhills of dark volcanic appearance.  We had to dispute
possession with buffalo, of the small well-cropped oasis
where we encamped; and with another grizzly bear,
which we routed out at dusk, after it had greatly alarmed
the horses.
About five o'clock this morning we were in the saddle,
anxious-with the famed Sweet Water for our goal-to
finish the remaining twenty-five miles of desert.  We
passed several springs, with a little grass, bog, and some
plum bushes; as we neared the river, the country grew
more wildly barren; there was a great plain of white
sand, and here and there, of glittering Epsom  Salts!
Amid the mirage and white dust, and the dizzy glow of
reflected light and heat, which nearly turned the brain,
I have still in my mind's eye a kind of vision of the indomitable hunter, Capt. M., scudding over far black
slopes, which seemed themselves in wavy motion, fiercely
pursuing flying buffalo: it was a rivalry of all the
German extravagance of their favorite legend of the wild
huntsman.  The facts seem simple, but there was an unnatural strangeness, a suffocating, alarming heat in the
dazzling plains, and the black hills, that gave a dreamy
confusion and doubt to realities. Did then the strange
mirage cheat the senses with apparitions of a desperate
hunter, on that wonderful gray horse, pursuing black
monsters, far, far, and indistinctly into the glowing haze?
After all, we knew it was Ben. M. or the devil! But
it had always been said that he would follow a buffalo to




IN  THE ARMY.                  347
the abode-left to that imagination which here seems
realized.
But onward moved our silent procession; each followed
the whitened horse before him; nothing more could then
be seen; and expiring fancy and distressing fact were
shadowing forth together the prospect of numerous equestrian statues of salt-and none of us looked back-which
might figure in our unhappy history; when, presto, a puff
of good-natured air blew pain, and dust, and doubt away!
We were on a verdant sod, laved by a crystal stream.
Close at hand was Independence Rock-a little mountain
of granite.
Ah! not long, bright Sweet Water! did we refrain thy
tempting embrace: thou wert a Lethe to the desert behind; all illusion faded from the delightful realities of
thy bath.
The rarity and dryness of this air is proved in an
ancient buffalo skull, with the ears an inch thick, hide
dried and preserved.
It is near midnight.  Silence reigns in the desert; but
now and then come the cries of wolves from the mountains. They give an almost supernatural tone to these
solemn solitudes. The repose which twenty hours of excitement and toil demand, is banished. Hark! how they
howl! Be grandly dreary, and ye will be attuned to the
heart!  Yes, never better to a sentimental girl the
gentlest breathings of an ZEolian harp. Ah! how very
doleful is that plaint! Never, never, the doleful! Give
me the placid calm in which the soul may revel with fairy
creations, adorned by all the flowers of thought-or proud
action, the storm of wild and passionate will. The gilded
and painted memory, or fierce oblivion.




348        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
Come, 0 sleep! thou luxury to the happiest; thou
matchless blessing to those that may not be comforted.
Come deathlike; profound as Adam's first. Fated progenitor! Then from near thy soft heart, sprang its resistless enemy, evermore armed against the peace of thy
unhappy sons  Nay, the very angels surrendered Heaven,
and trembling, yielded to her arms.
June 25th.-Independence Rock, which we left yesterday morning, is about one hundred and twenty feet high,
and a thousand long; it is the first appearance of a strange
ridge of granite masses, near a hundred miles long, which
stand in the midst of a great plain, in a direction perpendicular to that of the Rocky Mountains. The Sweet
Water for nearly half its course, from the South Pass to
the Platte, runs near its southern base.
Some of its dome-like elevations are about 1500 feet
high; apparently no tree or shrub,-no beast or bird relieves its stern and lifeless gray; its monumental solemnity.  For how  many ages, since its upheaval by the
primitive fires, has it stood-changeless in summer heats
and wintry storms-in untrodden solitude; in awful
silence!
But the " Rock" is isolated; and I rode ahead several
miles over a plain, yesterday morning, hoping to surprise
a chamois or "bighorn," at the "Devil's Gate," the actual
extremity of the ridge.
So named, perhaps, by some earnest believer in Satanic
grandeur, it is in truth the gateway chosen (for its
romantic beauty, I should say) by that fair and gentle
offspring of mountain dell, the better-named Sweet Water;
for, we practical mortals led our martial train with peaceful ease by a much gentler portal to its valley-a smooth
gap of prairie hill. Whether thus formed in the cosmical




IN  THE ARMY.                   349
throes of nature-river and sundered rock together-or,
whether the waters dammed and falling, wore away the
softer trap-rock vein through the granite, less resisting
than the hill of stubborn argil and gravel-so it is, the
stream here finds an outlet through a profound and narrow chasm in vertical granite.
There are vegetable and mineral attractions and repulsions. The elm-twig distorts itself, turning short back
to avoid the contact of the locust: the parasite selects the
noblest oak, which trails its tender foliage high over the
many self-dependent neighbors, as the tenderest woman
oft chooses the most sturdy and rugged mate; and certain
it is, this merry little river, whose sparkling waters often
demurely purl over golden sands, this very coquette of
all the mountain offspring, if it ever approaches the firclad mountains of soft, inviting blue, turns suddenly back;
leaves, too, the grassy bed of the valley, and cleaves to
the stern rocks: nay, as if for love, or strong excitement
sake, now and then it enters their very heart, which seems
to open to embrace it; and thus, careless of the dry and
melancholy plain, goes sporting through their stony bed
in fierce or joyous triumph: and then for change again,
it comes quietly forth, more deep and staid and with an
innocent smile to the bosom of the tame and neglected
valley. But I have left the " Gate" to describe the walls
and interior.
My first delight being calmed, I secured my horse and
slung my rifle-that I might better clamber with both
hands, and alone with Nature ascended instinctively to a
happily selected niche of this her favorite temple. Alone!
0, who among men would choose more than one witness
to such an interview!
I was a hundred feet up, and well within the crooked
30




350        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
chasm: all breathless, I cast my eyes first upward to the
grand walls, still three hundred feet above, and approaching in dim perspective; for crowning evergreens formed
nearly an arch; as if offering a link of beauty to the stern
masses, frowning gloomily above the abyss which had
sundered them forever.
Below, the waters roared as if to gather courage to
dash amongst the shapeless rocks; boiling angrily, they
increased by their misty spray the dizzy awe of the downward view.  With a slight pause or two, they reflect a
gleam of light, which relieves but heightens the majestic
solemnity of effect; and then seem to hurry forth from
the dread labyrinth, to meet gladly again the light of
day.
I have stood on Marshall's Pillar, overhanging New
River nine hundred feet; I have studied Harper's Ferry
from every point; but Devil's Gate, with its solemn calm
profound, enrapts the mind with a spell which no glare of
day comes to break; and has so striking a unity in its
grandeur, that it must receive the meed of sublimity.
From the granite range, five or six miles to a parallel
mountain ridge at the south, is called the " Valley," of
the Sweet Water; it is, in fact, chiefly one slope of barren
hill, whose sands and gravel are only redeemed from nakedness by melancholy artemisias and absinthia; to the
north of the granite, the country is flat and more valleylike; I should say then, that the granite was erupted in
the centre of a valley in the very course of the Sweet
Water.
This afternoon we stopped in the opening of a romantic
pass, where the river was narrowly confined by little
mountains of rock, to leave a small party with the weakest horses to await our return. Two hunters, who had




IN  THE ARMY.                  351
been sent after buffalo, joined us there with trophies, but
with the uneasy haste of a retreat: they had found a
grizzly bear with three cubs, and had managed to kill one
and had taken a second alive; but then the furious dam
had given them a chase, which they dared not stop to encounter, on ground broken by large sage bushes: so they
had gladly brought off, as a compromise, the two cubs;
-the live one, exhausted by-the chase and the excessive
heat, seemed dead, and they laid it in the edge of the
water; a crowd of men were gathered closely around, when
suddenly the little beast assumed vigorous life with so
fierce a growl, as to disperse his spectators like a bombshell.
We had left the road of loose sand, and now attempted
more directly to pass the defile: above us, six or eight
hundred feet, great shapeless rocks, piled loosely, or suspended on inequalities' of the parent mass, threatened to
fall, as many had done before; these, scattered about in
the sparkling rapids, and among the rosebushes of the
narrow bank, nearly barred our passage; but we fortunately accomplished it. Soon after we emerged on a little
green level-still between the mountain precipices-we
surprised a flock of chamois passing from  one to the
other: before we were well recovered from our own surprise they had accomplished their object; but immediately
several hunters were scaling the granite in pursuit; and
a lucky one reached gunshot distance,-when his carbine
awoke from silence echoes which had never found a voice.
Wounded or not, the goats, which on reaching their native
rocks had regained an easy confidence, seemed now winged
by terror, and skimming the almost vertical slopes and
fearful precipices of smooth naked granite, with a daring
velocity which was wonderful, admirable, incredible! I




352        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
cannot express the thrilling and delightful surprise it
gave us.
We ascended then a long, sandy slope, still between
granite; the reflection was blinding-the heat scorching;
there was no sensible perspiration, owing to the rapidity
of evaporation; but clouds brought shadows to our relief,
and never too was toil sooner forgotten. At the top we
paused insensibly, and all gathered there, first to behold
and gaze excitedly at the glittering summits of the Rocky
Mountains.  Their sharp pyramids of snow seemed to
penetrate,-or all sun-lit-were sublimely relieved by the
dark clouds. We descended to find a level camp ground
on the Sweet Water; and the telescope now reveals faintly
many more pinnacles penetrating dim, airy space, beyond
the eye's power to catch the bright reflections of their
snow mantles.  Like phantoms they seem, mysteriously
shadowing forth an unknown land,-a new world.
Near the camp, rising from the greensward, stands a
solitary rock of granite: it is two hundred feet high. I
ascended and sat long musing there-not alone, for I
found company in a single shrub which strangely flourished near the very top.
I am little curious in little things, and seldom in any
manner "play the devil" (to which they often lead so
wonderfully); but in this stilted position, I was a daylight
Asmodeus: the doings of all the little world below were
open to a glance; and owing to the strangely ascending
quality of sound, which I had observed before, I could
hear all their uttered thoughts; at four hundred yards
remarks came distinctly, to which the person addressed
at twenty paces, answered " What?" I lingered until the
torches of some ex tempore fishermen, with spears or gigs,
warned me that my descent was becoming perilous.




IN  THE ARMY.                   353
CHAPTER XIII.
JUNE 27th.
"Reposing from the noontide sultriness,
Couched among fallen columns""How pleasant thus to repose at high noon, of the
long hot day, on a bearskin in the deep shadow of our
willow; and in full view of the eternal snows, which send
this crystal tide with its delightful verdure!"
Friend.-This green valley gave us all the pleasure of
an unlooked-for discovery-the charm of a surprise.
"Pleasure generally flies a studied plan. I like too to
take misfortune at short notice."
Friend.-As the poor buffalo yesterday did theirs; so,
their last mouthful of grass was sweet!
" Did you not regret to dispossess them! They seemed
to leave with a real reluctance; but so great a herd must
soon have finished our forage."
Friend.-I cannot remember when we rested before!
but we had all the trouble of a march, to come three miles!
Well, it gave us a good appetite for breakfast.
"Not very necessary after the frosty night. But our
quiet discussion of trout and buffalo steak, was a good introduction to repose and a pipe.
"How beautifully those light clouds float along from the
east, wafted by the gentle airs that just give music to the
leaves over head. Ye far wanderers! are ye messengers
from that busy world?  If so, pass on; and those white
summits-those representatives of Nature's simplicity,
will receive you quite unmoved!
30*




354         SCENES  AND  ADVENTURES
" What is the world to us? Not much more than we to
them!'Let the wide arch of the ranged empire fall!
Here is my space.'"
Friend.-Well, the poet for once is right; so I feel now,
at any rate.
" Is it possible, Friend, and he in love!-for, listen,he adds,-'Now for the love of Love, and her soft hours,
Let's not confound the time with conference harsh:
There's not a minute of our lives should stretch
Without some pleasure now.'"
"I rather think there is nothing worth living for beside
Love, Music, and War."
Friend.-And a pipe; for what content, you heathen,
does it not now give you! And the beauty of this sparkling but calm morning is something to live for, and gratefuily too.
"Beauty! I worship beauty!  I enjoy it in the tiny
flower-it charms me in the bright spring landscape,
where Nature has kindly played the artist, or in the sunset.clouds which methinks good angels paint in heaven's
own colors; it enchants me in smiling eyes and lips
wreathing their divine intelligence into a halo of love!"
Friend.-Bravo!
" Thus love at last, as love at first-all absorbing-feeding upon music,-sporting with war;-love, the link of
earth to heaven,-love is all in all!"
(Friend.-He must have been reading Saint John!)
" The beauty, then, which now soothes me momentarily,
is but a sweet minister to the soul-to which absence is
the doomed evil, but space immaterial —and leads it with
a melancholy joy, to the imaginative communion of love."




IN  THE ARMY.                   355
Friend.-You are a monomaniac, by Jove! incapable
of argument, or even conversation.
" I detest argument  it is the favorite resort of fools,
to convince-themselves.
"I am only in a mood; buoyant and bitter; tameless as
the Arab coursing his native desert; free as yonder soaring
eagle! it's this wild mountain air! Let us have a fling
at the world,-the poor dollar-dealing sinners, cooped
up in their great dens-"
Friend. —But you began by a fling at me" Only a love tap, Friend; my way of argument. Let
us with the desert's freedom joyously flout convention and
opinion-upstart usurpers!-let us make mocking sport
of the prosaic solemnity of ignorant prejudice;-let us
shoot popguns, at least, against the solid bulwarks where
folly and selfishness sit enthroned!"
Friend.-Then fire away-though hang me if I know
what you would be at.
" You are so practical! Well, I mean that fanatics,
hypocrites, and malicious gossips generally rule society:
sometimes under the cloak of religion, sometimes as envious, presumptuous censors, they intimidate the true and
innocent, who resist not, nor despise,-but slavishly cower
before their unblushing falsehood: thus, all pure simplicity of manners, all the most private and sacred relations
of life are blurred by their foul intrusion. I mean, too,
that life is burdened with a thousand artificial cares and
anxieties; the growth of envy, jealousy, and folly, the
prolific brood of another arch-tyrant, fashion."
Friend.-Well! what care we in this honest wilderness! Care for nothing you cannot help, is the sum of
my philosophy.
"But who lives who may not be wounded through an



356        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
other!-Then so be it! let us treat the whole world as it
has done us, and-forget it! I dare say, that beyond
some family ties, there is not upon the wide earth a heart
in sympathy with our good or ill; whose even beat would
be as much disturbed, were this wild sod to cover us forever, as at the most ephemeral of the trifling cares which
make up their petty lives."
Friend.-At last you have struck a chord that answers
as to the touch of truth! And as for love,'tis but the
poet's wildest fancy,-or passion's thin disguise: it soon
tires; or, lasts so long as interests bind.
" Too bad! too bad!-I say it is the divinity within us!
warmed indeed by heaven-bestowed beauty, and humanity's
other noblest attributes,-but clinging to immortality with
earnest hope.
" There is a pure soul love,-a deathless friendship,
which all life's trials and worldly baseness cannot soil or
sap.
" If that were truth, better never to look into her Medusa
face; better to cherish illusion: blind credulity would be
heroism! ay,-and policy,-like that of the great Cortez,
who burnt the proofs of a conspiracy, rather than foster
damning doubt."
Evening.-In this day of rest, each has followed his
bent; some, headed by Capt M. of course, have wandered
to the stony and hot hills, seeking the excitement of hunting;-others fish; (still worse, but de gustibus;) others
sleep away the day.  As for myself, with my pipe and
pen, and my plum bush-my occupation appears.  Nothing disturbs me, but that a luckless brood of magpies
inhabit my plum  bush.  Heavens! how they chatter!
How  querulously and fiercely they chatter! No girlschool could equal it. I shall assuredly skin, and stuff, at




IN  THE ARMY.                  357
least one of them; or slit its tongue-which might make
the matter worse.
This same plum bush is a singular affair: its stems are
three feet through,-so closely wound together, that little
is wanting to a solid mass: but the half are dead,-and
on their dry limbs hangs the wool of buffalo, rubbed off
yesterday.
The bright Sweet Water, giving in the morning strong
indications of a devious and capricious course, we yesterday reluctantly resigned her cheerful company, and betook ourselves to her companions, the hills; in the hope,
however-which was not disappointed-that we should
find something new and pleasing in their more serious
company.
After a delightful drink of the water of a little green
bog, which has masses of ice near its surface (and without
accounting for this strange fact, I will merely mention
that hot as it is by day, water froze last night in my tent),
we gradually ascended what seemed a vast plain; —the
granite masses began to disappear;-to the left, the blue
mountains became prairie hills; the snow-clad Wind
River Peaks were steadily before us.  We exchanged
loose sand for a gravel soil; for some soil there is, with
a scant yellow grass;-but mosses are more common: the
universal wild sage is thinner and smaller;-heathcock
and hares have nearly disappeared-there is, instead, a
brownish rabbit,-and curlews too, whose wild cries are
well atone with the scenery.  About mid day we were
ascending a very dry hard road-as it seemed-when we
met a stream of water!-making a deliberate, but very
sure progress.  It was not much, perhaps, "for a new
country," but I thought it remarkable. Then we found




358        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
buffalo, and had a good old-fashioned and successful chase.
We were on very high ground, and the scenery was
noble; far away toward the left, to the south of the Pass
— that giant gateway to the western continent-the mountains rising again in forbidding grandeur; —great plains
in front, which might lead to the new ocean, but in part
relieved by towering mountains, glittering with snow down
nearly to our level;-while more to the right, a majestic
table bluff seemed there to bound the earth.
But suddenly, with a delightful surprise, we looked
down into the smiling face and bosom of our little coquette, Sweet Water, all renewed in grace, and blooming
in a glittering dress of green: absence gave appreciation
and zest to the meeting. She was now in a sweet secluded
valley, three miles long, on which high stony hills, everywhere walling it in, frowned in vain. She only smiled
the more!
And its attractions had gathered there a vast herd of
buffalo, which surprised us as much-so unusual have such
become. But here comes my Friend again:-well, rest
is evidently not a time for dull narrative.
Friend.-Most industrious of scribblers, I give you
good evening! How charming, for a change, is our old
friend, Siesta! I hope the beautiful nymphs of this
happy valley-if they suffice you-hovered over your
dreams. But, in truth, I think you dream all day (when
no wild bull is afoot). Hast thou, most favored mortal,
tempted an Egeria from her sacred fountain and grove to
meet thee, where others groan in very spirit, in the hot
and dusty stony barrens!
" You are quite overpowering!  Your dreams surely
were spirituous. But a truce to day-dreams; light as




IN  THE ARMY.                  359
they are, the whole world granteth them not a foundation
spot!"
Friend.-(He has turned the tables.)  Well, the Captain has got back; and has had an interesting excursion.
He went a dozen miles over-or down-to the Wind
River (or a branch), which he says is a thousand feet
lower than this; and that the mountains, to which it gives
its name, appear from thence far more lofty and grand.
"I am sorry I did not go! Is it not water of the
Yellowstone?"
Friend.-Yes; but first of the Big Horn, which takes
its name from your "chamois"-they are all goats-that
is a fork of the Yellowstone. But is not this a sweet
valley! I have bathed in the beautiful little river, where
it is five feet deep; the sands seemed of gold,-and on
the bank I found ripe strawberries.
"They have a story of Capt. B., whose travels this
way were published, that he spent a day or two here, collecting the yellow mica sand, in the belief that it was
gold. But while you have been indulging in the beautiful, which I hope stirred somewhat the poetical element,
-which exists perhaps in all, and is dormant in few elevated minds,-I have found in the rugged hillside food
for thought at least;-the impression of a sea-shell in
limestone; —this, at the top, or rather at the base of the
Rock Mountains (for this South Pass, sixty miles wide,
has not the characteristics of a mountain,-is merely the
highest steppe of the continent), is a fruitful subject for
paleontological research, if such be not without the pale
of your practical system."
Friend.-Bah! your modern geognosy is a humbug!
or, too deep, at least, for a wandering dragoon. Now,
would you go about determining the age of the formation




360        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
from your knowledge of the shell? or give it physiological
gradation from your profound knowledge of superposition
of strata?
" I might do either; for knowledge throws a reflected
light.  If I know this to be a mollusc of an existing
species, could I not infer that it was a comparatively late
eruption that threw up this mountain and the incumbent
limestone?"
Friend.-I am  decidedly non-committal; but it is
enough to ruffle one, to have such a long word thrust at
him, amid all the charm of a complete laisser aller in a
glorious wilderness, a thousand miles from all.the schools
of pedantic, groping, and guessing philosophy.
" But, good heavens! do not condemn a word for its
length.  Palseontology is an almost poetical triumph,
which throws an attractive grace over the sterility of
geognostic investigation. As we eagerly decipher the
inscriptions and symbols on the human tombs, which
throw beams of startling light over the obscurity of fabulous antiquity;-so, when we discover the traces or remains of the extinct life of the old world, their natural
tombs-the fossil rocks-are monuments by which Time
thus records their relative ages."
Friend. —Allow me then a few years of devotion to
the study of the analysis of primitive zoology and botany,
and I will then, if possible, give you my speculations
with all the boldness of poetical science upon the formation and age of the continent-all by the light of your
chronological, fossiliferous, infernal shell!
"I understand you:-Ne sutor ultra crepidam."
Friend.-You do, indeed; for it is my decided opinion
that you have a profound-smattering of the subject.




IN  THE ARMY.                  361
"Candid! Would you prefer discussing' sacred fountains and groves?' "
Friend.-That, ingrate, was only to flatter a little, fgr
once, your humor, your " mood,"-which, in all its tenses,
I should call the doubtful.
"Well, Diogenes, let us meet on middle ground; did
you notice yesterday that grand level-topped bluff? others
perhaps scarcely looked at it,-to me it was sublime! I
cannot tell why,-but even with the snow-peaks in view,
it seemed the summit of the earth."
Friend.-Perhaps it was the strong impression of massiveness, which its great extent added to its really grand
elevation!
"There may be something in that.  To tell the truth,
it reminded me of a feature of Niagara; that scene of
hackneyed sublimity, of which it is supposed that nothing
new can be said or written. But it was the rapids, and
not the falls,-whose smooth descent the eye measures by
the banks, that impressed me most, and with an effect
that I certainly have not heard or read of. Standing on
the Canadian side, much below the falls, in full view of
the rapids, in all the foaming majesty of their long rocky
descent, I could see nothing beyond-nothing between
them and the sky, whose glittering light clouds seemed
blended with their bright foam and spray. Then came
with the strong semblance, the sublime idea that the
mighty flood was rolling forth continually from the high
heavens!"
31




362        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
CHAPTER XIV.
JUNE 30th, 1845.-Camp in Oregon.-In three days
we have come but thirty-seven miles through these lofty,
barren solitudes, with no very remarkable features differing from those already described. Too barren to attract
many buffalo, we find in the pretty little green valleys of
the Sweet Water, where we occasionally touch it, fresh
buffalo-grass, on which our horses are sensibly recruiting.
The stream rises daily, after noon, about six inches-from
melting snow-and falls as much at night, when we generally have a black frost. Every day showers of rain or
snow fall on the mountains, the former far down the great
slopes.
Willow bushes still abound in the little bends of the
Sweet Water; but we have not seen above half a dozen
trees since we left the Platte. There are a few antelopes,
which are very tame; and heathcocks: several have been
killed weighing five pounds.
We make it 281 miles from Fort Laramie, and 850
from Fort Leavenworth: the country from Laramie here
I would describe in general terms, as a sandy and very
hilly desert, difficult for loaded wagons, and with scant
grazing for the teams.
At noon to-day we left the Sweet Water, and came
over the South Pass: the ascent is gentle and quite
smooth, to a slight gap in the prairie; to the west the
descent is rather more rapid, two or three miles to a
spring branch, which runs into Green River, a fork of
the Colorado.  We are in camp on the edge of a narrow
trembling bog, which scarcely bears a horse; but he must
venture for food.




IN  THE ARMY.                  36-3
There is a lofty bluff rising from the camp, whose level
top extends to the actual pass, and slightly commands it:
from it, the view west is extensive, and over a decidedly
champaign country; it resembles the figuration of drifted
snow: more to the north, the white-topped mountains can
be seen for at least a hundred miles: they make near us
a turn eastward; and just there is the spring of the
Sweet Water, which thus rises at the west of some of the
highest peaks: to one standing on the spot, its undecided
course seems much inclined toward the Pacific.
A kildeer and sparrow are the only living creatures
which we have seen in this mountain edge of Oregon.
To-morrow we march to return; thus drinking, two
days in succession, both of the Atlantic and Pacific
waters.  We have now the 5000 emigrants to meet; and
worse, their 5000 cattle, which, we fear, have left little
for our horses.
Night-on the lofty bluff overlooking the South Pass.
How solemn is the night! Silence and solitude-eldest
born of time-reign unquestioned.
Calmly sleeps the moonlight on the gray earth, which
no green thing proclaims is not a wreck,-a monument of
life extinct.  The winds sleep too; their wings are
motionless,-there is no whisper in the air: shadow has
taken to her embrace the unhappy wanderers that sleep
below.  Those mountain pyramids of gleaming snow
point mutely to the stars, which, radiant in solemn motion,
alone speak of Life and Hope!
Oh, Life! thou unsought mystery, that springs from
nothingness, to grasp at Eternity.
Eternity! Awful shadow! incomprehensible Dread!




361        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
On whose black threshold the spirit shrinks shuddering,
-till Hope comes,-like the star in the east.
A continent is spread beneath me: a new world in ocean
midst: the great ocean, at whose ever-heaving surgetyping infinity-man trembled and forbore many thousand
years: but at the appointed hour, Fate led him by the
hand; he came-and truly found all new: the perennial
life and death of changeless vegetation; and the new red
race. For three hundred years he has labored to subdue
the untamed vigor of the primeval curse.
And now, he who of old would scale Heaven with a
tower, climbs here with his burden of discontent, vainly
seeking rest in timeworn deserts. Yes! now he would
scale these venerable heights, which storm and rain have
furrowed-fructifying other lands: the continent's hoary
head, the mark for battling thunders, since Lightning
brooded over the great deep!
How oft, 0 Moon! has yon snow-shining spire marked
its shadows on this lofty dial? How long since erupted
from ocean, they were cast upon the face of the waters?
And how long since the plains arose,-in whose warm and
gaseous slime grew monster forests,-now whelmed and
burnt to coal.
Speak! thou pale and silent witness; tell of Earth's
throes,-when a continent had birth: tell when the Stormpower chose these solemn mountain-towers, piercing the
sky-mists, for his throne? and his sublime laboratory of
river-feeding rain; his fire-created and blasted, but icy
throne!
Tell when Nature's poor red child came, and with
dawning mental light, obscured by superstition, first
trembled at the feet of these granite monuments of the
new creation!




IN  THE ARMY.                  365
Calm, and beautiful, and serene! thou floatest on unanswering, with thy bright companions,-the starry hosts
which sang together before the face of God, ere Earthtime began; but twin-born with earth, chained thou art
to her,-though-like hope-thou soarest with the stars!
And, sweet companion, goest thou?  Must Earth's chill
horizon hide thy heavenly face? must the icy barriers of
destiny now break-mayhap forever-the strong spell
which bound us? Must my solitude, whence I worshipped
thee afar, be so darkened?
Nay, inconstant! how smilingly thou wilt shed thy
light on happier ones!
And lo! She kisses the icy mountain; and now, the
farewell ray, comes calm-careless-cold.    *      *
And strong Darkness reigns! How awful her presence,
here on the Storm-throne!
Child of clay! descend to the humble valley, and
seek with thy kind sleep and forgetfulness.
CIIAPTER  XV.
JULY 1st.-Not reluctantly we turned, this morning,
our backs upon Oregon, land of promise and fable.
"Homeward bound!"  "Lives there a wretch"-never
so much a vagabond,-whose tongue was taught to lisp
that honest, noble Saxon word-Home-whose heart it
stirs not with an emotion which distance increases, and
time cannot chill.
But to retrace one's steps is dull: dull even to the wilderness wanderer, to whom the face of Nature is all in all;




366        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
who seeks, by change and novelty, to charm  away the
sense of mere routine, fatigue, and privation.
The very trustworthy Mr. Fitz Patrick, our guide, has
been much in Oregon; and he asserts that the country
we have passed through, and consider uninhabitable, is less
forbidding than it: some narrow river-grounds excepted.
It seems the rule, that in very barren lands, the exceptions
-very striking of course-should really make great
amends: how far they lend imagination to general descriptions, depends upon veracity, judgment, and interest. The truth will out some day. It is certainly very
difficult to return from Oregon: and the tales that are
told may be like the blarney of the curtailed fox. It is
said they remove thence to California; which would prove
not much; for movers they will be to the end of the
chapter.
We have collected numerous pets; beasts and birds;
horned frogs, or lizards; plants and minerals; heathcocks-one weighing seven pounds-and hares have been
skinned and stuffed: unfortunately, we have no arsenical
soap; and since we left our surgeon and his stores,-not
even corrosive sublimate: there is but one shot-gun-an
unlucky one!-and the shot is expended; and we have
had little opportunity: the expedition is military, and
most rapid; and though less so for a few days past, uncertainty has prevented the gratification of the great
desire of some of us to ascend a. snow peak.
We came but thirteen miles; and in approaching our
pleasant camp-ground on the river, surprised some buffalo,
and slew four or five; poor beasts! they are now between
two fires.
This upper Sweet Water needs not, I think, the grim
hills for a foil, to be pronounced charming: with what




IN  THE ARMY.                    G67
gentle music does its swift waters-now o'er glittering
sands, now amid rocks-break the dreary silence around!
In what graceful curves does it sweep round, here a
garden spot of currants and gooseberries, strawberries
and clover; there, a little densely shaded thicket of
willows.  Heaven knows what Naiads may nestle there,
in rarely disturbed enjoyment of beauty; but other airy
-at least not imaginary-occupants are there, who rejoice in blood!  Mosquitos of marvellous size!  But
fortunate we are in blanket-enduring mornings and evenings, which silence their war-notes and chill their wings.
July 2d.-We have marched twenty-two miles to-day,
over the hills of sand, and gravel, and rock, and sleep
once more in that sweet valley which had so extraordinary
attraction, that we made two camps in its three miles. A
west wind, fresh from the snows, was cool; but the dust
of many horses' feet, which it bore with it, was a serious
annoyance. I caught, at a little stream in the hills where
we made a short stop, two half-grown heath-cocks: this
was too good fortune to be thrown away; so we set to
work immediately, and constructed of willow-twigs a very
respectable cage: I shall try hard to get them home.
The Sweet Water enters this valley through a deep,
narrow pass of several miles; the scenery very fine: but
the "groves of cotton-wood and beech," of which we read,
are but a sprinkling of birches and cotton-woods; the
river is there inaccessible; but we vary from our old
track, and now and then come upon something new, and
pretty, too; and some wild horses this morning were the
first we have seen.
Our valley is still brighter than before; the mountain
showers have visited it: what could resist its attractions!
July 3d. —Anlost with reluctance, we turned our backs




368        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
this morning upon the smiling meadows, the plums and
willows which surrounded the camp; and although our
faces were homeward, we were rather dolefully absorbed,
as usual, with present littleness-I mean with the twentyfive miles of dreary, hot hills before us-when suddenly
we met our friends, the emigrants-the foremost company;
they were well and thriving, as the foremost generally
are-but had "slept out"-of water; having travelled
thirteen hours without reaching it.
I saw a poor woman weeping. The sight of our return!
the home! the friends behind! the wilderness before!
We have received a favorable account of our party left
with the poorest horses and beef-cattle, which are but
eight miles below us this evening.  We have been solely
dependent upon game since we left them.
July 4th, 1845.-The parole is Independence-countersign, Liberty.  Glorious words, and a glorious day! It
was glorious in the "Continental Congress" to declare
the colonies independent, and sign their names to it:
more glorious than some of the after-conduct of the constituent States.  There was a great deal of baseness, of
intrigue, of money-seeking; a great deal of faltering in
the revolutionary war: and the more glorious was it to
those who withstood all; and particularly in the South,
where they were fewer, and had to resist the Tories and
the slaves, added to British power. But to Connecticut,
of all the States, is due the fame of preserving from the
beginning, her chartered democracy; the others surrendered theirs, and became subject to the will of the
base Stuarts.
Our independence achieved was due-first to Washington-be his name and memory freshly embalmed, ever on
this glorious day! Secondly, to the infatuation and irl



IN  THE ARMY.                  369
becility of British generals; and thirdly, to French aid.
Let those who ignorantly think that we would have succeeded without the assistance of the hereditary fool and
despot-our friend Louis-turn to Sparks' Washington
for convincing evidence to the contrary, as well as the
Great Man's decided opinion.
Independence, Liberty, Equality,-brave words! Most
nations now enjoy the first, but not in a commercial or
social sense: Paraguay, barbarous and insignificant, under
the late Dictator did, and Japan now, alone possesses it
without this qualification-necessary to civilization. Other
nations,-as England,-possess the first and second; but
her liberty trenched upon, not by the monarch, but by
the aristocracy, who make and administer the laws.
France enjoys the first and third: and this blessing of
equality in as high a degree, perhaps, as our boasted
Republic; where a love for the distinction of titles is remarkable among all nations.  And the Turks, too, have
equality; —they are all equally slaves.  The Russians
are totally deprived of liberty and equality. (Why do
not the fanatics of England make an abolition crusade
against the white slavery there existing? Their interests
do not prompt it;-we must address her fear.)
In China alone the government is ministered-theoretically at least-by an aristocracy of learning and virtue.
Portugal and Spain are remarkable for their imperfect
enjoyment of independence, while liberty and equality are
both wanting.
But the Oregonians, and these emigrants thither,-pure
democrats all, and independent as woodsawyers-are preeminent for equality and love of liberty. Last night,
they asked the Colonel to fire a "big gun" this morning.
He readily assented; they were delighted, and their




370        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
spokesman exclaimed, "Do, and I will treat you all!"
The Colonel replied, he drank nothing but Sweet Water
(not even eau sucre).
Accordingly it was fired! and awoke echoes from the
granite mountains that never had startled before the chamois themselves; and the shell exploding amid the far-off
answers of rock to rock, produced a glorious confusion of
sounds-more rare, if not more windy than all the orations of the day combined, and the inebriate, but hearty
shouts of excited multitudes.
Then we marched, and as usual on this day found it
exceedingly hot: the sunshine everywhere reflected by
rock and white sand, might have barbecued an ox,-or at
least killed a horse,-if exposed long enough.
We found our party where we left them; their horses
a little, and the beeves not at all improved: but two buffalo had been killed, and two big-horns: one of the
former, " the largest that ever was seen," received twentyone shots; they have cured its scalp for me; no cushion
is deeper or denser; it would make a fine winter saddlecover, were it not too cumbrous.  We came eight more
miles by meridian; when, finding grass, the heat drove us
to encamp.
Speaking of governments, Oregon is now, perhaps, the
only pure democracy existing in Christendom  (I have
heard nothing of late of San Marino), and is practically
independent:-may she so continue! The fear is, they
cannot do so without us (as well as we without them).
Let us only proclaim in their behalf-" Hands off, gentlemen!" in our biggest capitals of diplomacy; and, if needs
be, fire the big guns too; —but in heaven's name let us
fight on Christian ground; Oregon would be worse than
Florida, and our contest with those Swamp Parthians, the




IN  THE  ARMY.                  371
Seminoles. The only-quasi-colony we have is Liberia;
and that is nearer than Oregon-in time.  The Oregon
railroad is, and will remain for half a century, a notable
humbug: that over the Isthmus of Panama, or the Nicaragua canal, is the great hope, or work of our generation.
I have now visited the regal province of Canada;-the
domain of democratic Oregon (three feet deep in the
boggy "bowels of the land"); also the problematical
regions of Texas (to whose revolutionary war my military
"countenance" was willingly lent).  I have visited, too,
Mexico (horrid compound despotism of priest and soldier).
I hope Texas will revisit her "province" of New Mexico,
and give us an opening; for I long to have a hand in relieving the Mexican millions of the galling yoke of her
grinding oppressors; a crusade worthy the banners of
Liberty! (But the poor, ignorant devils, could they
understand and keep freedom?  Liberty, like manhood,
requires education to be worthily worn.)
I have also visited the courts of very many " sovereign
nations"-of Indians (where human nature is nearly as
sophisticated as at other courts). Thus I am quite an
American traveller, and might one day give the public
the cream of my adventures; but as a titled and hirsute
foreigner is the exclusive pet of us republicans,-so
America is a subject that can in no way excite, interest,
or tickle us, but through foreign malevolence and ignorance, or the delightful praise of cockney condescension.
If the book be European, and larded with sonorous titles,
-treat of antiquities (venerable in guide books),-of the
stereotyped romance of ruins, converted by a prurient
imagination from dens of robbers to seats of chivalry, and
abodes of beauty,-then, all success to it!
How stale, flat, and unprofitable in comparison, the




372        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
primitive grandeur of our native land; —the sternest
frowns and sweetest smiles of virgin Nature;-our beautiful prairies,-and sublime as ocean, on which the sun
rises and sets in solitary glory;-our own glaciers and
avalanches, cataracts and volcanoes-unknown, unnamed!
And our independent red men (gentlemen, that never
work), our Indian chieftains, who rise to power and influence solely by mind and daring; —democrats, but not
the less distinguished by knightly bravery in numberless
combats.  They have genealogies too, beyond all record
(older than William the Conqueror;-how often was England conquered?). Truly our never-conquered Indians
offer noble subjects; it is a rare mine of romance, not
wholly unworked. And the proud, dignified, and eloquent
Indian-even surpassing the old knights in the romantic
vigils and penal vows of religion-seldom  falls so far
short of romance as his white brother, the tame subject of
civilization. But, alas! he does lack a vital elementdevotion to women! But nature seems at fault, in so
generally refusing them beauty; and gives him a poor
excuse,-which white millions have not,-for the same
beastly conduct.
All this shakes not our mental dependence-our foreignfashion loving public taste. And then the infernal trashmuch of it from the stews of Paris and London-utterly
undersells us, to the almost total suppression of native
labor; and to the robbery too of the best foreign authors,
whose works would command a copyright.
So much for the Fourth of July,-and a dry one!




IN  THE ARMY.                  373
CHAPTER XVI.
JULY 5th. —We have paid to-day for our short ride
yesterday; twenty-eight miles mostly over sand, ground
to impalpable powder by the innumerable emigrants,
whom we are meeting.
About four miles from the camp, we took a lingering,
farewell look-at eighty miles-at the glittering snowpeaks.
I more particularly examined, this afternoon, the remarkable geology of the vicinity of Devil's Gate. The
granite masses erupted for forty miles above, from the
very bed of the river-but throwing it always to the
south of the principal chain-here turn to approach the
forest-covered ridge which bounds the valley on that side;
but in thus leaving the river, they had stopped its course,
but for the chasm, or "Gate," in some parts not more
than forty feet wide.  The road leads over a very narrow
gap, a hundred feet high, commanded by the lofty
granite;-on one side a chaotic pile of boulders, ten and
twenty feet in dimensions, through which is a great vertical
vein of trap-rock.
Thus liberated, the river enters a vast sunburnt plain;
and, as if to take a last farewell of the romantic ridge,
runs five or six miles to the foot of the solitary Independence Rock, thrown out like a grim  sentinel upon the
desert's boundary; then, as if warned of the salt and
lava desolation beyond, turns again, and hastens to join
the Platte, to aid in the evident struggle before it, with
all the rocky powers of chaos and volcano.
Having thus, as from impulse, surrendered name and
32




374        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
identity, and the excited contest over, they emerge from
the secret and sublime mountain passes, in dreary unity,
upon the boundless flatness of barren plains,-though
some fleeting enjoyment of flowery savannas succeedsbefore both are lost in Missouri's dark and turbid flood.
Farewell to thee, then, sweet daughter of Mountain!
Thou smile upon our mother's melancholy face! Go,with thy bright and blithe innocence,-like many another
victim; —go purling merrily when you may, ignorantly
happy, to the dark course of thy destiny. Thus do the
Fates spin our warped life-threads,-thus do we weave its
chequered or sombre web!
The baggage to-morrow takes the road which we came,
through the desert; and we are to explore our way to the
most accessible point of the Platte, and thence follow it
through the wild, romantic Buttes.  We hope to find
grass,-almost hopeless on the wagon route.
My poor heath-cocks are dead! They had begun to
eat a little, and every care was taken with them; but
they were untameable;-they seemed to pine for their
native freedom, and to die broken-hearted.
I have got an ancient "big-horn," or chamois skull,
with the horns, weighing eighteen pounds; but they are
said to be quite small.
The emigrants are unexpectedly thriving. I saw, however, one poor woman, who had within a few days lost her
husband, now driving a wagon.  But it was somehow
understood, that she was particularly desirous of an immediate successor to said husband and driver deceased;
or, for a conveyance back with us;-perhaps both boons
would have been accepted.
I am told, that by the time our rear passes their companies, toward what they will ever consider their homes,




IN  THE ARMY.                   375
the women generally are seen to weep.  Heaven help
them!
July 6th.-We took a course over a desert plain, and
soon after found ourselves ascending a gentle slope; and
so we continued for twelve or thirteen miles,-reaching
insensibly a great elevation; and then-unexpectedly as
suddenly, arrived at a precipice.
Then all press forward to the brink, absorbed or uttering exclamations of astonishment and delight. The nerves
are thrilled with the sublimity of depth and space;sight, without a barrier, seems to lead us over a just-discovered world.  Recovered a little from  our giddy surprise, the first object beyond the void of a thousand feet,
which compels attention, is a rose-red wall of mountain
height, to which a profusion of cedars gives a softening
shade of beauty: then we begin to observe a circular
amphitheatre, twelve miles over, where Nature in pleasant
mood, seems to have scattered lavishly as carelessly,
objects of beauty and grandeur; mountain and rock are
colored as a flower-bed;-evergreens have been showered
over them.  Silvery gleams attract our sight-there is
water-it is the river! In the midst of its secret, fierce
course, a sweet glen has tempted it to a gentle pause on
its soft bosom.
It is then a river valley! Truly, close to our right,
through an unsuspected chasm  of wondrous depth, the
happy Platte, having been somewhere secretly united to
Sweet Water, has come to meet us, as witnesses to its
triumph, or sharersin the excitement of a pleasure tour.
Lowly, but bright and joyous in its life of motion and
cumulative power, it advances, courting first all sweet
and quiet recesses-yet daring all opposition to its wilful
course.  How we watch it now! Yonder, it sweeps in




376        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
curves of beauty;-but suddenly lost, we gaze conjecturing where it may next appear; unexpectedly, it has paid
a smiling visit to a grim mound, that stands modestly far
aside; satisfied, it comes forth to new discoveries;-a
determined barrier seems opposed; but carelessly yet, it
sports in some little meadows which can scarce be seen.
Then it advances more seriously to a green hill, which
seems bent in homage. But no! Nothing less than the
loftiest mountain of proud rock, must give it passage! and
through a narrow-a sublime chasm, it fiercely rushes
forth to new labyrinths beyond. That is the Hot Spring
Gap; was earthquake then called to its aid?
I was charmed,-and lingered;-what time I know not.
The guide had sought some possible winding or zigzag
descent. The Colonel was at my side. I had heard him
exclaim, "Poor Mac ought to have seen this!" When
he called me to action, we dismounted and led our horses
to follow the guide. I cannot tell how we got down;there was a rocky chasm of a dry stream, or waterfall,a ledge of rock now gave us a giddy path-the roots and
branches of cedars now lent us support;-there were, momentarily, dangers, surprises-new beauties.
I was thinking why Nature had hid away since creation,
as if in a secret storehouse, such treasure for sight and
soul.  We were discoverers: it is certain that white men
had not been here.  But then, her favored, untamed
children! Ages back, their leading spirits had drunk in
here the inspiration of noble thoughts, for eloquent expression or high resolve!
When fairly down,-near the river bank,-I looked
back and saw the moving picture of men in long file,
leading horses down the bright-colored face of the precipice.  Beautiful!  Now dapple grays are passing in




IN  THE ARMY.                   377
front of blood-red wall, and blacks are relieved by white,
or light gray rock;-parts of the long procession would
disappear,-or, be dimly seen amid shrubbery; or would
suddenly emerge from the concealment of some nook of
clustered evergreens.
We had struck the river too high up;-and had soon
to ascend again; and it was at forty-five degrees that we
scrambled up one ridge of loose round stones, from the
size for street-paving, to two feet in diameter;-then for
miles along the face of precipice, by the narrow paths of
buffalo. Soon after, forced to cross the river, nearly
swimming, we came suddenly to a high steep mountain,
sundered to the base, forming a chasm where the torrent
forced to break desperately on shapeless rocks, gives ever
to the sublime walls the echoes of its torment.
Unwillingly we turn away, to seek a circuitous outlet,
guided by buffalo paths over a lower mountain of confused
and many-shaped peaks.  At the highest part two monstrous buffaloes suddenly met us in the way: the gaunt
keepers of the pass paused in astonishment, and seemed
to stare the question, "What did we there?" or, "Where
are we safe?" thought they-if buffaloes think. But they
were spared! Our pleased excitement as explorers brooked
no interruption, or needed no addition. There we trod
our path on beautiful feathery crystals of gypsum in red
clay; and white and gray varieties resembling lava. Safely over, we again had to cross the river: it was very deep
and muddy; for the sublimity of our passage through
these fastnesses, where white man has rarely, if ever trod,
was heightened by black clouds, thunder, and rain.
Then we were in another circular opening, or valley,
fifteen miles wide, quite surrounded by mountains-the
chosen abode of desolation and grim silence!
32*




88        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
At the eleventh hour of our toils,-generally leading
the horses,-we stopped for the night in a little open
space by the river, where we rescued some dry grass from
a gang of hungry buffalo; one of which maintained his
ground until slain. We have had to-day, five alternations
of cloudy coolness and rain, and oppressive heat.
I was joined, after our frugal supper of dried meat, at
the watch-fire of the bivouac, by my Friend, who came,
I suppose, to while a dull hour; but to give him his due,
he brought up some coffee, and we made in tin cups refreshing and strong sleep-dispelling draughts.
" Heaven knows," he said, "why guards should watch
in this valley of desolation, with world-forbidding battlements; we might sleep a month, safe from  aught save
grizzly bears."
We discussed our day's adventures;-disappointed of
grass for the poor horses; but delighted with unexpected
beauty and magnificence of scenery.  We had evidently
struck the Platte too high; much above where our only
known preceding party had passed.
A busy time, he thought, for journalists; and wondered
how I mustered industry or energy to write after great
fatigues.
It was a pleasure, I told him:-often it occupied me
while the difficult preparations of supper went on; or
passed the dull hours of a night-watch; and of bright
mornings I sometimes wrote, when others slept perhaps,
the hour or two when horses were tended, breakfast got,
and baggage packed.  But new and beautiful scenery,
though never tiring to the eye, I began to think dull to
describe, or duller to be read-the pen lacking so much,
even the feeble pencil's power.
Friend.-Ah! it is very true! Tell me to-night some




IN THE ARMY.                   379
story of men-not matter: a military one, I suppose, it
must be.
"Men!-they are my aversion.  It is an unpleasant
animal:-the female, however-"
Friend.-Ah! no more of that, Hal, an thou lovest
me.
"I love Nature best;-nature in her virgin wildness.
But I have been reminded somehow, of a very pleasant
day's service in the Southwest; of scenes, or scenery, in
which men took a part; and being in action, were a suitable and picturesque addition."
Friend.-It may do then; let us abstract ourselves
from this sad gloom, and cheat the leaden hours.
"It was three years ago;-an episode, or more accurately, a sequel to the Florida War. We were in camp
near Fort Gibson; an express came in the night with
information that three hundred Seminoles, lately landed
south of the Arkansas, had become rebellious, and crossed
to the forbidden side. At reveille, while a thunderstorm
was bursting, the squadrons received orders to march at
eight o'clock.  Eight miles down, we ascended with
difficulty the Menard Mountain, where it abuts on the
Arkansas; then, after a few miles of fine open forest, we
found ourselves passing through large prairies fringed
and beautifully interlocked with oak groves. There was
little sign of man; the rich Cherokee had been careless;
in twenty-two miles we saw but one dwelling, and an unfinished house,-which promised, however, far to excel in
comfort those of the western whites. We encamped at
dusk on the river bank, under the leafy domes of a majestic forest.
"Early next morning, the leader of the Seminoles,
who were near, was induced to appear in camp.  The




380        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
colonel, by interpreter, asked him what he had to say for
himself. The proud chief wore a sash, which we believed
had belonged to some officer slain in the unfortunate
Florida War; and in it was thrust a great dirk, which
he freely fingered; he had not been asked to sit. He
answered,'In Florida we were promised to be sent to
Fort Gibson. This promise is broken: we are now forbidden. We shall go.  Our friends Alligator and Coacooche, and their bands are on this side. We shall meet
them here in council.  In Florida we were treated with
more friendship and consideration. I am accustomed to
sit, when I have business to transact.'
"The colonel replied,' If you received this promise, it
was unauthorized. You shall not go! This day you shall
recross the Arkansas, and set out for your lands on the
Canadian.'
" The chief, at last, had met his more than match. He
endeavored then to temporize; he was astonished, but
with skill felt his ground, to be assured if boldness and
cunning could fail him  now. And so it seemed;-he
promised to obey, and was dismissed;-the colonel taking
measures to be informed of any unnecessary delay.
" Soon after noon, the trumpet called,' To horse!'
The squadrons were speedily arrayed; the Indians had
refused or failed to obey.
" The colonel said to us, in his cool way,'If we come
to blows, put your sabres well in; but on no account
strike woman or child;' then we marched. My squadron
led. Two miles down on the skirt of the Indian camp, a
lad, who was mounted, attempted to pass us; the colonel
himself seized his rein, and gave him in charge to two
dragoons, but such was his indomitable obstinacy and
boldness, that he persisted in efforts to elude this arrest,




IN THE ARMY.                   381
utterly regardless of the sabres flashing about his head!
Until, seeing that but few men remained in the camp, the
colonel, rather than that the boy should be sacrificed,
commanded his release. We found on the Illinois River,
at its mouth, the chief, and about a dozen men and their
families. Nothing but their weakness saved them. Their
tents were torn down,-they were seized and forced to an
Arkansas ferry, close by.
"It soon appeared that the Indians had taken possession of the flat, and had been crossing the Illinois River.
An armed party was sent over in a canoe, loaded the
boat with their baggage, returned, and took the chief and
party over the Arkansas.
"Very near sundown it was ascertained that the band
were nearly all beyond the Illinois River-a hundred
yards wide, and booming full; and I received rather a
singular order to cross it with my squadron;-with discretional powers beyond.
" If I had stopped to reason on it, I should soon have
pronounced the order impracticable; for the full banks of
the river were vertical; there was only a small canoe;
the sun was setting. However, it was to be done; I had
faith, and-perhaps the colonel too; and so-in half an
hour I was over with above half my horses and threefourths of my men."
Friend.-Come now, no romance; you must tell how
that was done.
"A mounted Cherokee made his appearance at that
moment; how it happened, I did not stop to inquire; I
learned from him that a mile or two above-through the
dark forest-there was a trail and a ford,-in low water.
I sent a division of the squadron under an energetic officer
who took him as guide-to cross there, if he could risk




382        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
it. I immediately sent a party to the Arkansas to find
and bring round the flat-boat; and meanwhile, crossed
over a dozen men in the canoe: just as it was upset on
its third trip-losing some arms, and very nearly some
lives-the flat was brought; I rode into it, followed by
as many horses as could find room; filled up the interstices with dismounted men; pushed over, and landed
safely.
" I found that a Cherokee lived in the vicinity, and he
told me that the woods were full of Indians. There was
little daylight left; but ordering him to guide me, I advanced with my few horses, and the dismounted platoon
following: for a time we only picked up a straggler or
two, and found scattered baggage.  Then I met my
mounted division; they had swam the Illinois-loaded
with arms and equipments-in military array!
" Soon after the guide pointed out a little bushy prairie,
where, he said, a large number of Seminoles were concealed: it was nearly dark: I threw out my mounted
division as skirmishers, and soon after signalled the'charge, as foragers:' when the'rally' was sounded,
they with difficulty found their way back to the foot reserve, and not an Indian had been flushed!
"Then, of course, we marched back to the river bank;
and lay down in our cloaks, supperless. But this is all
introduction; I have tired you before the day is begun?"
Friend.-No, it is not very late; I was rather amused
at your account of those spoiled Seminoles.
Your bivouac was marvellously like this present one!
But go on; and-if you do not stop at a dream or twoyou will doubtless soon come to the cream of the story.
"Amigo mio, my dreams are-not what they were!Well, the night passed quietly enough, though I was dis



IN  THE ARMY.                  3S3
turbed by the coming in of women and children; and
right early I got over my other horses and men, and-a
breakfast.
" I sallied forth then, ripe for adventures. I' scoured,'
as was right, the three miles of open forest-we have to
borrow this word from the scullery, while the French say,
euphoniously, eclairer-then emerged upon prairies,.and
soon reached a lofty hill-top.
" 0  how beautiful and fresh was all before me! It was
a surprise; not a trace of man blurred the expanded view,
where free Nature had tried her genial hand. It was the
year's prime; sparkling under the early sun, were meadows and murmuring streamlets; glades, where sported
herds of deer; grassy slopes swelling to smooth hillocks;
old oaks, here expanded in solitary magnificence,-there,
disposed like garlands on the gentle hills; and again,
gathered in imposing groves. Strangely beautiful in the
midst were two hill-cones, rising like a triumphal gate,
from forest bases. Far extended hill and dale and plain,
until lost in the blue slopes of a mountain range; and
about its airy outline clustered the rosy morning clouds.
" A free and exultant feeling of power-a joyous buoyancy of spirits-a rising romance, was then fast swelling
my heart, and sending the blood in happy currents, when I
saw my advanced guard galloping over the plain below,
and received by the escort of fifteen captured Indians, a
report that their main body was in a wood which was
pointed out; it was at the foot and on the side of a bluff,
which sent an arm —like that of an L-to be merged in
the eminence on which I stood; the wood was on the
outer slope, and extended round the angle, out of view.
" Ah! then I was transformed to a General, with my




384        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
four admirably instructed powerful platoons for regiments,
and my trumpet signals for field and staff!
" I immediately sent another platoon swiftly to search
the woods of the near slope-approaching always the advance guard-whilst I hastened with a division round the
hill-tops to head the Seminoles, and gain a commanding
and central point of observation. Excitement and rapid
motion only increased my enjoyment of the rare scenery
of that secluded district, where every moment new combinations of beauty enchanted the eye. It was thus that
my only half warlike operations and slender means, were
magnified to a charming effect.
"My detachments were then lost to view-engaged in
the forest below: passing slowly round the brink of the
precipitous bluff, I faced the more distant and longer side,
-and, having waited a proper time, led my men in extended order abruptly down the descent; how steep it
would prove we could not see, so dense was the undergrowth; blindly we forced our way; the horses maddened
by tangled vine and brier, leaping uncontrollably downward.
"The wood had been abandoned, and a fresh trail led
into the prairie beyond; the advance guard had taken it
rapidly, and the support had more slowly followed. Soon
I saw the first gallop along elevated ground, to disappear
in the forest toward the Arkansas, and thither I directed
the latter by trumpet signal. When I reached the wood,
I found they had charged through a camp, whence every
soul fled to a near swamp: while they were entangled
there, I ascertained that these fugitives were Seminoles of
an earlier migration; and soon drew out my skirmishersnot without some captures.
" Our spirits were all up; and returning to the prairie,




IN THE ARMY.                   385
I made other combinations-managed by signals-amidst
its hills aid groves; we overrun many miles of country,
and made numerous prisoners, giving but one sabre
wound.  But-'I will not tire
With long recital of the rest.'
"It was dark again when we returned to the Illinois."
My Friend! he was sound asleep.
CHAPTER XVII.
THE desert trulyis here-moral and natural wastes.
Gray stunted trees in wintry mourning-draped with
moss.  Chill winds wail, —wild beasts howl,-and my
heart echoes, "Far-lone-forgot."
But those rosy hours will be reflected on the gloom of
all years. As, in a day of sombre clouds and wintry
winds, suddenly the sun sends athwart the earth and sky
a dazzling beam,-so comes a smile out of the dreamy
Past, like a ray of heavenly light.
Did I dream?-Had I slumbered at my post?-I did
dream.
And why not tell my dream?-Life is little better;
nay, it is little different. We wander at most in the
dark-stumbling on temptations,-walking on the thorns
of passions; in an awful but obscure light, refracted by
the cloudy medium of philosophy.
Sleep on, my Friend! Though I would question you if
I could, in this dark hour, if sympathy may ever pass the
33




386        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
mysterious boundary of dream-land; —if that deathlike
seeming calm  were of careless oblivion,-or of some
divine despair.
Wondrous contrasts, at times, have dreams to the
actual life around.  Alone with death in bloody guise,
and tossed on ocean in its hour of storm and darkness,
with the roar of breakers in my ear,-I have fallen asleep
and dreamed of home and happy scenes!
But when our bark glides smoothly to summer airs,
when the rough sea of trouble and of toil is for a moment
calmed, and we lap  ourselves in  hopeful repose,then mayhap, some demon, born of darkness, harrows our
defenceless souls with images of hellish torture!
My watch is lonely and fearfully silent.  There is a
power in profound silence, especially in the reaction of
strong excitement, that is full of awe. Silence!-then
every sentiment of my soul has ears, in which air-spirits
supernaturally utter distracting sonorous thoughts! in
darkness, with long unrest, it verges madness.! ever splendent stars, which float along the sparkling blue and boundless ether, calming with its deep serene
the poor desert watcher;-0! immeasurably far, to whom
no struggling ray of earth-light can ever reach,-are ye
the abodes of happy beings, guarded from ill by flaming
swords of seraphim?  May soul of man aspire to the
beatitude of reunion there, with the last loved of earth?
O! spirit ministers, are ye hovering near, radiant with
pity divine, on guardian errands, to touch with hope the
sinking hearts of myriad men?  And can no mortal eye
behold thy subtilty supernal?
Are these wild mountains impassable barriers, that
must prison all sympathy from earthly communion?
In vain, in vain! Dull tyrant space wears its stoniest




IN  THE ARMY.                  387
frown;-there is no whisper of life or motion in the air;the elements but echo a human sigh; and thus,
"I live and die unheard
With a most voiceless thought."
July 7th.-But now, "the morn is up again," and we
have marched many miles fasting, and have been attracted
over the turbid river by the sight of grass, and have
stopped and breakfasted under some cotton-woods; and
in their shade my pipe and pencil are struggling for exclusive attention;-but pipe has it! —for here comes my
sympathetic companion of the night, looking as discontented as if he had not been luxuriously talked to sleep.
"What's the matter?"
Friend.-O, confound the bivouac! the dew or frost
has got into my joints.
"Delicate, indeed!"
Friend.-I believe this the very Valley of Acheron!
in fact I had bad dreams,-of midnight incantations,infernal revels.
" Pshaw! it was a calm and beautiful night; and never
shone the stars through purer air, into the dark mountain
vale.  Listen to that sweet bird! it is piping now of
some dream of love."
Friend.-Nay, there, we have agreed to disagree.
"Thou pitiable exempt from love's misery, thou believest in beauty?"
Friend.-Yes, thou unintelligible lover of antithesis,
not to say plagiarism.
"Is anything so beautiful as unbounded faith?"
Friend.-Listen! that's " to horse."
" Answer me then!"
Friend.-Pshaw!-Of course it's beautiful; or rather,
sublime.




388        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
"It is the very attribute of human love!"
July 8th.-After remounting yesterday, we threaded
the labyrinth before us by aid of the river, and old paths
of the buffalo. One would say there had been war there,
among what our fathers called the elements.  Earth,
when nearly defeated by water, as a last effort detached
at a defile, a little mountain-of red and warlike rockto throw itself in the "heady current of the fight " the
shock must have been great; but River soon recovering,
then very coolly had recourse to the manoeuvre of turning the enemy; and by the ground he had thus so
weakened.
As we wound our difficult way-leading for the most
part our horses-through this grand outlet to the confused mountain valleys behind, some grizzly bears were
seen climbing the rocks of the mountain-side, and stopping frequently to give us a savage gaze:-and that was
all we could well do in return.
At last we emerged on a great barren prairie slope,
where the mountains,-to keep up the figure-rallied from
their confusion and retreated in regular masses toward
the east.
Some of the elements, however, made us pay for this
invasion of their battle ground: the Colonel and quite a
number of others had been seized with excruciating pains
in back, limbs, head, and the bones generally, accompanied by fever; and a party was left to prepare a litter
for one man who was totally helpless.
A few miles brought us to the old trail at the regular
ford; our route from  Independence Rock was a little
shorter than the road.
We remain to-day in camp: fortunately, perhaps, there
is little or no medicine,-nor a physician. Nature, with




IN  THE  ARMY.                   3S9
only rest for a nurse, will do well; she will not be thwarted
by pretenders, whose only sure means of relief is the
strange faith which they inspire!*
This afternoon Mr. Walker, whom we met at Independence Rock, and who is now on his way to California,
visited our camp: he has picked up a small party at Fort
Laramie; and wild-looking creatures they are-white and
red.  This man has abandoned civilization,-married d
squaw or squaws, and prefers to pass his life wandering in
these deserts; carrying on, perhaps, an almost nominal
business of hunting, trapping, and trading-but quite sufficient to the wants of a chief of savages. He is a man of
much natural ability, and apparently of prowess and
ready resource.
The party left with the sick man arrived at sundown;
he was brought in a litter made of two poles suspended
over saddles at the sides of two horses, one placed before
the other: it is almost incredible that a man could be thus
carried, however painfully, over those rocks; in fact, the
men had frequently to take the place of the horses.
July 9th. —To-day,-the sick having been much benefited by rest,-we found a shallow ford and crossed the
river. We suffered much from heat, which the white sand
greatly increased. Some large emigrant companies were
met: one had six or seven hundred cattle; they left the
road insupportably dusty. We abandoned it —preferring to
encounter the sage bushes.  At Deer Creek we found
our pleasant old camp ground converted into a very cattlepen; and so, after our long march, had to wind a weary
way, a mile or two up the creek, seeking more virgin
ground.
* This disease was probably the dengte; and as an apposite commentary on the text, I have heard a physician of Iigh standing say, that he
did not iknIw vitat wovuld cure it; —le had tried everything!:;hA




390        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
In crossing the Platte this morning, the grizzly bearcub came on the scene in his final act.
It will be remembered by the patient and attentive
future reader of this dry and methodical narrative, that
its first appearance on any stage, was in "high" tragedy
-that the first act embraced an unusual amount of sanguinary incident-that an innocent brother (or sister)
being ruthlessly slain, and the baffled lady-mother left
(unceremoniously) full of towering and demonstrative
rage,-the imprisoned hero himself sank overwhelmed,or in a well-acted counterfeit of death (and was borne off,
remember, on a "real" horse).  That in the iext act
(and three acts shall do for the tragedy of my bear,originally they had but one,-but that was at the sacrifice of a goat), he came to life in a manner that might
very well have been criticised as an overdone piece of
stage-effect,-but that in fact, the spectators were much
moved, and gave full credit to the dangerous passion of
his howl.
To-day, then,-for I scorn anachronism-was performed the final act.  The stage (wagon) was on "real
water."  Enraged at his wrongs, his losses, and his galling chain, the "robustious beast" acted in a ridiculous
and unbearable manner; ay, " tore his passion to tatters,
to very rags,"-splinters; the stage (wagon) could not
hold him: and finally, in despair, he "imitated humanity
so abominably," as to throw himself headlong, and so
drown-or hang himself: (the author cannot decide which
-even after a post-mortem examination;-and so leaves
the decision of this important point to the commentators.)
My tragedy is all. true,-and if not quite serious, has,
as is proper, its moral;-but rather, as I have alluded to
the primitive tragedy, let that "future reader" here




IN  THE ARMY.                  391
imagine the entry of Chorus, and their song to Freedom!
That dumb beasts prefer death to slavery! Liberty lost,
they can die without the excitement of the world's applause, or hopes of a grateful posterity!  (It is not
possible, I think, that the cub could have known that I
would immortalize him.)
July 10th.-We took our old trail in preference to the
road: the weather excessively hot.  At a short noon
halt, we saw a mile off, five Indians wading the river:
they shook a blanket-the sign of friendship; as it was
not immediately returned, they ran off; they felt guilty,
perhaps, of levying black mail upon the emigrants.'Tis
strange they are so moderate. In this country all parties
who feel weak, become unusually circumspect on discovering the vicinity of others:-man being an animal of
prey, if without strength for attack or defence, the necessity for concealment is felt.
After coming nineteen miles, we turned into a great
horseshoe bend of the river; where, fortunately, we have
good grass, and also some fine large shade-trees.
On the sandy shore we find here numerous petrifactions of the thick bark of trees, and also some fine cornelians.
We have had all the formalities of a thunder-shower,
but with a mere sprinkle; and now, after the gale, under
a tree, with dark clouds before the sun, it is hot: ten or
twelve days ago, water froze in our tents!
July 11th.-Last night we were three miles from a
Sioux camp of seventy-three lodges: a half-breed came
to us; he stated they were going to the mountains for
lodge-poles.
We found also, near our camp, petrified logs and




IN  THE ARMY.                  393
The poor soldier who lost his arm, suffered a second
amputation: he is, however, now doing well.
Our Arapaho squaw and the children, we find, are fat
and flourishing: the young ones are unusually handsome
and intelligent, and are quite petted by the soldiers. She
will go with us south to her parent nation.
July 14th.-The wagons are late in returning. Meanwhile the fire progresses toward our little river bend and
camp; and it is raging among the ancient cotton-woodssome standing-some dead and leaning-many pitched
and piled at the sport of time, the winds, and drifting
overflow: black billows of smoke roll forth-now tossed
overhead in threatening, cinder-scattering clouds; now
rising in palpable columns to the sky;-then a fierce
gust or a whirlwind,-as is its wont in this region of lofty
irregular hills,-makes all roar again; while the eager
flames dart impatiently on, or overtop all the ruin.
It has crossed the stream! A company has rushed
from the dreadful circle, tearing away their equipage in
desperate haste; all preparations are hurried on; wagons
scarce loaded, go lumbering forth: some saddle-some
mount in haste:-and now the flame has reached the dry
grass of the central camp. The trumpets blare, and we
gallop forth to leap the girdling flame, and pass the blackened but still fiery space beyond.
I look back in admiration:-but now, over the moving
mass of horsemen, artillery, and baggage, I see the
flaming wreck involve some noble old trees, which, cheery
in their solitude, had so long made their smiling presence
felt amid the gray wilderness around: but greedy flames
do their work, whilst the lurid smoke hangs like a pall
over their high green heads.




IN  THE ARMY.                  393
The poor soldier who lost his arm, suffered a second
amputation: he is, however, now doing well.
Our Arapaho squaw and the children, we find, are fat
and flourishing: the young ones are unusually handsome
and intelligent, and are quite petted by the soldiers. She
will go with us south to her parent nation.
July 14th.-The wagons are late in returning. Meanwhile the fire progresses toward our little river bend and
camp; and it is raging among the ancient cotton-woodssome standing-some dead and leaning-many pitched
and piled at the sport of time, the winds, and drifting
overflow: black billows of smoke roll forth-now tossed
overhead in threatening, cinder-scattering clouds; now
rising in palpable columns to the sky;-then a fierce
gust or a whirlwind,-as is its wont in this region of lofty
irregular hills,-makes all roar again; while the eager
flames dart impatiently on, or overtop all the ruin.
It has crossed the stream! A company has rushed
from the dreadful circle, tearing away their equipage in
desperate haste; all preparations are hurried on; wagons
scarce loaded, go lumbering forth: some saddle-some
mount in haste:-and now the flame has reached the dry
grass of the central camp. The trumpets blare, and we
gallop forth to leap the girdling flame, and pass the blackened but still fiery space beyond.
I look back in admiration:-but now, over the moving
mass of horsemen, artillery, and baggage, I see the
flaming wreck involve some noble old trees, which, cheery
in their solitude, had so long made their smiling presence
felt amid the gray wilderness around: but greedy flames
do their work, whilst the lurid smoke hangs like a pall
over their high green heads.




394        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Quoth Fitzpatrick: "Another such expedition, and
there will be no wood left in the country."
Six miles are passed: we have come up the Laramie,
over high hill and valley; we are in a fresh green
meadow; the bright stream seems to pause in welcome;
-the horses graze earnestly at their luxuriant repast:
quietly goes on preparation for our long march southward;
the winds cease; the sun goes down with brilliancy amid
the clouds,-which now too, have found repose.  The
clear river mirrors all; the green banks-the varied camp
-the bright sky.
What, on the troublous earth, compares with the summer sunset!
It is the welcome signal to the weary world to cease
from toil, and seek the happiness of rest and refreshment:
as if in honor of the occasion, the heavens are illumined
with a grandeur and beauty, to which the greatest monarch's most glaring fete is a poor mockery.
Slowly the glowing honors fade; the gorgeous red
yields to more modest beauty;-now, growing fancy sees
airy structures, in which the presence of angel messengers, resting, has shed a beauty not of earth; the hues
are more delicate and lovely and heavenly to the last!they calmly ascend, while reluctant Night draws his curtain of gray.
What heart so earthy, but is calmed and softened to
meditation! So perfect loveliness, slowly ascending to
the parent skies, seems to draw with it our souls heavenward.
Slowly, solemnly, surely, come the shades and darkness of night! Night! that type of death!-but death,
as thus, mercifully preceded by the beautiful promise of
a happiness beyond.




IN  THE  ARMY.                  395
CHAPTER XVIII.
JULY 16th.-Yesterday, marching early, we soon left
the beautiful Laramie River, and turned more to the
south. We next struck the dry bed of the " Chugwater,"
-a small tributary which is graced by a few trees: fourteen miles over lowland prairie, brought us to a higher
point of it, where there was a little water; after a rest
we turned-with the stream-eastward, and encamped
ten miles above; —but there was little grass.
To-day, we still ascended the Chugwater; the immense
table-lands, or steppes of the piedmont, abut on its narrow
valley; the vertical section exhibiting a sandstone conglomerate resting on clay. After marching about seven
miles we saw Chian lodges before us on a level meadow
of the stream.  While the horses grazed, the officers
walked over:-it was a neat-looking, merry little encampment; all seemed lively and happy; and their hunters
were then approaching with horse-loads of meat.  We
were struck with their numerous wolf-dogs, which were
very large, and looked formidable; but they are not so;
but rather the faithful drudges which civilized man finds
in graminivorous animals.
Their masters, and mistresses too, though living like
gladiators chiefly upon flesh, seemed remarkably mild and
amiable, as well as good-looking.  We found a bevy of
red ladies sitting around a white, well-dressed buffalorobe, extended on a frame; they had shells containing
different dyes, with which they were ornamenting it, in
many quaint or regular figures: either from  native
modesty, or possessing the boasted easy self-possession of




396        SCENES  AND  ADVENTURES
civilized refinement, they did not interrupt their embroidery at our approach, or exhibit any of that curiosity
or excitement which we might flatter ourselves our sudden and warlike visit had inspired.
We were introduced into the lodge of the interpreter, a
young white man; it was neat, and lately pitched on
fresh grass; but I must describe a Chian lodge:-a dozen
or more slim, white pine or cedar poles, above twenty feet
long, are set up, crossed and secured near their upper extremities; fitted around and pinned to the ground, is
a weather-proof envelop, constructed of about twenty
buffalo-cow robes, dressed without the hair. More than
twenty of us sat comfortably within this lofty pavilion;
its mistress, who appeared to have no rival-was a remarkably pleasant, comely woman, and well-dressed, as
were many others.
How enviable is the Chian! Such is his simple, clean,
comfortable house; so cheap, so movable!  When his
summer carpet-of green velvet-wears out, how easy to
move to another; to select some still pleasanter spring or
valley, and enjoy the change of scene and air; free of
the curses and the cares entailed by civilization.
After refreshments, we found that a large semicircle of
robes had been disposed on the green without, and shaded
by awnings of skins, stretched on tripod frames.
We met in council: the Colonel addressed them much
to the same effect as he had the Sioux, and then distributed liberal presents: this largess was garrulously
acknowledged by the patriarch of the band, who, with
the shadow of the authority which had descended to a
grandson, endeavored to impress the Colonel's advice.
What heart could be so artificially moulded as not to
be deeply interested in this happy, secluded community!




IN THE  ARMY.                   S97
They were a family! a patriarchal family numbering two
hundred; all descended-save those joined to them  by
marriage-from this old chief, for whom Nature, in her
pleasant mountain valleys and forests, had gently tempered
ninety-seven winters: they were truly children of Nature;
and her bounteous and beautiful gifts-even in this
sterner clime-her balmy breezes, her crystal streams,
her gorgeous morning and evening skies, her gently succeeding seasons, her voices of praise or of warning
thunders, and mountain storms, had sunk into their
hearts as the only and sufficient revelations of a beneficent Great Spirit.
This grandson-the quiet moving spirit-was a remarkably handsome, mild, gentlemanly man; the interpreter
said he was " one of the best Indians in the world;" children were very numerous; like the Arabs, they indulge
in a plurality of wives.  They wear their hair long, and
are partial to our caps of fur: happy for them, if they
remain far distant from whites, and follow no less innocent
fashions than that of a head-dress!
But whilst engaged in the formalities of the council and
distribution of presents, we were startled by shouts and
laughter so vociferous and continued as to excite great
curiosity, and induce some of us to retire to satisfy it: a
merry and comical confusion reigned without; very infectious, but difficult to understand: it seems that while
the young squaws were so gently engaged at their painting,
a certain bachelor captain, whose countenance at home is
considered quite mild and engaging, but whose wont is now
to give of it but an uncertain view through a vast bunch of
reddish hair, had the curiosity to take a closer view-he is
near-sighted-of the colored design; —possibly he was artlessly examining a natural model;-a matter of highly34




398        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
civilized precedent and practicability:-be this as it may,
the belle sauvage of intent and downcast eyes, suddenly
raising them, was startled by this hairy apparition hanging over her shoulder; so much so as to indulge in a shrill
succession of those shrieks so successfully practised by
unfortunate heroines of the boards, and natural, of course,
to very young or pretty ladies: attributing it to his uncouth looks, for, according to his experience, no imaginable offence had been. given, the captain's confusion was
natural and complete; and so too was the astonishment
of many, when this lady-like screaming was repeated
by one and another,-all the young girls toward whom
the hapless and blushing captain directed his appealing
regards.  They ran, shouted, hid, laughed; his own
puzzled and innocent laughter was the most ridiculous;
for an explanation soon began to be whispered about,
which did not much abate the merriment.  The captain
wore spectacles; and we learned that these girls, lamentably ignorant of optics-as of science generally-were
full believers in a little theory of their own, upon the
subject of the mysterious glasses; and it was no less than
that they enabled the fortunate spectator to penetrate
opaque bodies; and consequently-although unusually
w ell and completely dressed-they supposed that, to his
eyes, their modest garments were no protection!
Two hours and a half had flown by, when the shrill
trumpets called us away.  We mounted and turned our
backs to our new friends and their pleasant valley, perhaps forever.
We were soon on the high steppe again; but clouds
and smoke obscured our view; the prairie was on fire in
our front; in three hours we came to a small stream;
there was no grass.  Now, grass, if green, is a very




IN THE ARMY.                   399
pleasing thing to most people; but many simple souls
might consider us hard to please, if we complain of its want;
but if " all flesh is grass," so grass is flesh, to us; and
flesh, which is muscle, is more intelligibly appreciable. We
have but three wants,-so remote is civilization, which
counts them by the thousand,-water, grass, and fuel,
and wonderfully little and various in kind of the last;
and we find the Earth a " step-mother," for she seldom
grants us more than two of them, and when in an illhumor, denies us all three.
After an hour's delay, and consultation between the
guiding and deciding powers-how anxious is power, well
possessed!-we marched on.  In four or five miles over
burned and toward burning prairies, we came to another
little stream, and in a thunderstorm; and here, per force,
we sleep on uneven sand-bars and gravel-beds (better than
the rocks each side); but our faithful steeds are mocked
with a scant supper, but a very civilized show of green
bushes bearing gooseberries,-as if for dessert.  How
like to some feasts!-at which I have fasted!
July 17.-The morning was very cold; but as usual
our promise of rain was broken, and ended in appearances.
We came many miles over a burned district; one
would say such hills as these would boast, if they could,
of producing grass enough to burn. We passed two bold
branches of Horse Creek: a gentleman told me he saw
bees hiving their honey in holes in a clay bank; they are
rarely seen so far away from plantations, or from trees.
After grazing an hour, we mounted and pushed out into
the trackless plains: the day became very hot; and we
began anxiously to look for water. We ascended many
long smooth slopes, to which the descent was less, and




400        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
steep, until we reached the topmost ridge of all,-tne
highlands between the two Plattes,-then gently down
again, with abrupt ascents;-as if two sets of long
sweeping waves had met.  After marching ceaselessly
eighteen or twenty miles, we became uneasy, as well as
exceedingly thirsty; the guide, too, lost confidence and
changed his direction to the east; which made us more
thirsty still;-we were looking out for Pole Creek: " The
next hill, and we shall see it!"-the next and the next, interminably, until some almost despaired. We came at last
to a level plain, which was very unpromising; but soon
after, we saw hill knobs, and from this I presaged the
creek;-and was not mistaken.  We passed several dry
branches; the sight of them  would give strength and
spur to the poor suffering horses.
In all. such passages in my life I have been reminded
of Sterne's pious and happy expression, " God tempers
the wind to the shorn lamb;" always there is some redeeming circumstance: thus here, the ground was hard
and smooth; also it became cloudy, and the freshening
breeze was a great relief; it rained a few drops, and we
almost prayed for more. At last, after thirty-four miles,
we espied a green flat, which alone greatly revived horses
and men.  When, at last, we reached the creek, there
was no water to be seen! Some went up a mile. With
a large tin cup, I dug in the damp sand and gravel two
feet down, and then was rewarded. Three hundred yards
below, soon after was discovered a very fine spring.
Meanwhile night came on; and four hunters and packmen, who left the camp before us this morning, came
not; an elk or two and a solitary badger were the only
habitants we had seen in the half million of acres over




IN  THE ARMY.                  401
which our eyes have ached this day. Now, at 10 o'clock,
they are setting off several rockets.
July 18th.-The hunters did not come in the night.
Pretty early we saw a small party coming down the
creek; but they proved to be Arapahoes, from a camp of
sixty lodges, ten miles above; they had seen the rockets.
These are countrymen of our poor squaw and the two
children;-they were three men and a woman; and singular enough, one of them was a young man named Friday, whom Mr. Fitzpatrick, our guide, had discovered
when a mere child, lost and almost dead in a wilderness:
he saved him and brought him up: the woman was quite
comely, and in her fat cheeks the blood showed itself in
a blush. The elder of the party embraced Fitzpatrick,
and expressed gratitude to him and the whites for their
protection and hospitable care of the woman and her
children, and alluded too, to Friday and the singular
coincidence; they received their countrywoman affectionately. But they were strangers; overwhelmed with
misfortune, she had found good friends, with whom she
now trembled to part.  She wept and went with them.
Two discharges were madb from the howitzers for the
benefit of the hunters, and then we marched. We soon
ascended a level plain, unbroken for twelve miles; we
were in view of the Black Hills, far to the right, and,
about ten miles to the left, of the prairie mountain, Scott's
Bluff.  The plain was gravelly, scantily covered with
short, crisp, buffalo grass, much like curled gray horsehair; the south wind came over it as from the mouth of
an oven: only three buffalo gave an interest to the dull
scene, and one antelope, which seemed intent on death;
it came running into our midst and was riddled with balls.
Content to-day with sixteen miles progress, we have




402        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
encamped on Crow Creek, which is very like the one we
left this morning: its name was given from the number
of crows which are found on it, lower down where there
are some woods; and that reminds me that for forty miles
we have seen but one tree-five miles off-and not a
bush or shrub; our sole fuel is bois de vache. The hunters have arrived safely; they say they struck Pole Creek
twenty-five miles higher than we did, descended it until
nine at night,-when, unable to see our fires from a hilltop, they bivouacked without suppers; they rode down it
this morning for two hours, until they heard the cannon.
A beef has been killed; the first for four weeks: we
have now only flour for twelve days, and a few cattle:we are about seven hundred and fifty miles from settlements: our only other resource is the subsistence stores
sent two years ago to Bent's Fort for Captain C.'s command; rumor is rife of its being used, spoiled, &c.,-for
rumor penetrates the prairies, delights in trading posts,
where its every tongue becomes double.
The atmosphere has been so smoky to-day that only
a few saw, among the clouds, the white top of Long's
Peak.  It is famous among mountains.  In its valley
recesses are the springs of the Platte, the Arkansas, it is
said of the Rio del Norte, and certainly of a main branch,
called Grand River, of the great Colorado of California.
July 19th.-Twenty-six miles of Crow Creek! Flat
and desolate, with but a few low hills of clay and gravel;
where we touched it, if we found a little grass, there was
no water; if water there was no grass. We were in view
of snow, but the "sweet south" blistered our faces.
Long's Peak, which from  this view is double, is seen
towering above the mountain range, but sometimes was
hardly to be distinguished from surrounding clouds.




IN  THE ARMY.                  403
Here at camp, we have a little grass and a little water,
hot and brackish; it just comes to the surface of the sand,
as if to be resolved if this crust of earth were worthy of a
redeeming struggle; I think the sirocco has settled it,it is surrendered to the crows. Clouds too, fresh from
the mountain summits, have made a hasty visit, as if on
the same errand of mercy; but after shedding a few
drops-of tears I thought-they passed on muttering.
The scene is not wholly bare, but its gray vacuity has a
strange relief. There is a grave, and on its little mound
has been piled the skeleton of a buffalo; and near by is a
little pyramid of twenty horses' skulls 3-how long the
tireless wind has bleached these grim  mementos-who
can tell? But they seem to whisper still of a tale of blood.
But even at Crow Creek, the heavens have smiled upon
us in beauty! Just as the sun was sinking-apparently
in snow-the sky was spanned by a rainbow-a double
one-of wonderful brilliancy; for all within was deep blue
cloud.
After all, I have had the fortune to see a dozen far
more desolate tracts in our boundless territories; and
they begin to be estimated, but never will be sold by the
acre.
July 20th.-We marched again over flat, barren ground,
and in view of the great mountain range, hid to the snow
line or above, by the secondary but lofty Black Hills;
our course was still down Crow Creek for twelve miles:
before we left it we got water by digging; then after ascending, we came in pleasant view of the South Platte;
but before us, apparently two or three miles, down a
smooth gentle slope, was Cache la Poudre; but it proved
to be seven.  Very warm  and dry we were, when we
arrived at the bank of that beautiful crystal stream-as




401        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
large as Laramie; several elks scampered off at our approach,, abandoning some luxuriant grass, the very sight
of which was refreshing; but much more so was a bath
which a number of us enjoyed, whilst the horses grazed
with a most excusable avidity.
Then we rode six more miles over a weary, dusty, level
road to the Platte; forded it, and encamped under some
pleasant cotton-woods, with more green grass. Long's
Peak, though above sixty miles off at the southwest, rises
proudly above all.the fine view of mountains: its outline
as seen here makes an angle at the apex of 120 degrees.
We have had two hunters lost since yesterday morning,
and the howitzer was once more discharged this morning.
CHAPTER XIX.
YET unstained, bright and cheerful, gayly splashing'mong the rocks,-merry river, knqwest thou, surely, where
thou rushest in such haste?
Art careless now, in thy morning, of these pleasant
green trees' shade?
Ah! be happy while thou mayst, round thy mountain
parents' feet; smiling thou, and reflecting every hopeful
smile of theirs!
Yes, whilst they shelter, dance in sunshine, now thou
maystFriend. —Hillo! what are you about?  Writing in
tune with the merry cotton-wood leaves? You will have
to "frankly confess you have invented a new style."




IN  THE ARMY.                  405
"Upon my word I was becoming as curious as yourself; a first unfortunate line set the jingle agoing, and I
could not stop it; my'feet' got into such a measure
that they were running off with me,-and my discretion
(somewhat like an extraordinary leg of which I once heard
a clown sing).  Shall it stand?-to be laughed at one of
these days?"
Friend.-You are wonderfully given to personification;
particularly of rivers. I suppose you were thinking of
the desolate flatness, the choking sands, and the profitless
end, the now fair and promising river comes to?
" Exactly-and it led to melancholy thoughts.
"Well, these dreary steppes, where the mountain
streams, fresh from springs and snow, are the chief objects of interest, must account for it; they have at least
the motion and music of life;-if they are not persons,
there are none other, and I believe they answer me about
as well."
Friend.-You have reversed the figure;-decidedly.
Shall I call it a personality? There is only a subject or
two on which we cannot meet, but unfortunately they are
your especial favorites; I have been fortunate in escaping
them now.
" And that is the reason you did not ridicule my literary
pastime! But I shall not answer for myself till the moon
sets to-night.
" By-the-bye,-what, my Friend, do you think the moon
was'invented' for?-to assist that other invention of
sleep?"
And thus we whiled the hour away.
July 21st.-We marched south, following the river, here
rapid and clear, —a mountain stream, running at the foot
of the Black Hills.  We were on a hard, level road, over




406        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
prairies, and river-bottom too, of great barrenness; the
effect being heightened by ruins of several adobe trading
forts: I only wondered that man could be tempted to tarry
here, where animals come not even for security.
We have had a true prairie day, with its incessant
fierce south wind. As we approached our camp-ground,
a black and threatening thunderstorm was gathering unusually far down from  the region of snow; they had
seldom reached us,-but now the first big drops, mingled
with large hail, were falling as the wagons came trotting
recklessly down the bluff to the low grounds which had
been selected. With haste the well-experienced men got
out the tents; and just as the fourth corner-pin of mine
was in hand, and I could slip under its shelter, down
came the hard rain! and it has continued for two hours:
some of my neighbors, I suspect, know more about it.
The Snow Mountains looked grandly to-day; we are
so much lower than at the South Pass, and on Sweet
Water, that their height, comparatively, is much greater
than of the mountains there. Long's Peak, which from
this view is sharpened to 600, is now almost behind us;
while Pike's Mountain, which is more lofty, begins to rise;
it looks blue, with the distance of ninety miles; it is at
the southwest, and we pass near it. It is said that for
above four hundred miles we shall not cross a stream!
This is the first good rain we have had since May.
Some say this country has a soil, but that the difficulty
lies in its dry climate: all effects have some cause; it is
certainly a barren, desolate country: we come hundreds
of miles, and see scarcely an Indian, or an animal; it is
in fact a desert.
The two hunters have come in; they have been lost and
without food for three days; they say they have ridden




IN  THE ARMY.                  407
to-day above fifty miles. A fine range for elephants,
this!
July 23d.-Yesterday we left the Platte and encamped
on Cherry Creek. The hottest day we have had; and no
bracing nights, as on the Sweet Water. Strange too to
us, to pass in view of wintry snows and suffer thus, and
just after a hail-storm. The country is the same-desolate and devoid of life: there have not been buffalo here
for years.  Pike's Peak, as it is called, raises its lofty
dome of granite as we advance; it is bisected far down
by a vertical white stripe. How distance and the familiar
word, belittle a vast chasm of frozen, changeless snow!
To-day we still followed up Cherry Creek, or its dry
sands; but towards noon, it came running to meet us;
and there were the patronymic cherries,-or rather the
bushes; and of the sort called choke-cherries.  We are
again encamped on it; but the highland is before us, and
adorned, as the nearer hills, with pines; and with grass
too; and the prospect is more homelike than any other,
since we left the Little Blue, near the Missouri line.
July 24th.-We marched early, still up Cherry Creek.
From  Mount Pike a spur of mountains runs out to the
east in a vast table,-the highland between two great
rivers,-the Arkansas and the Platte.  This stream has
its spring where the table-land mountain breaks off into
promontories, and these are crowned with lofty pines and
rare and welcome oaks.
Following it up, at last we were rewarded by discovering the long valley's highest secret chamber, its court of
fountains; these gave an emerald verdure to its gentle
grassy slopes; and shrubs and rose-bushes were in blossom,
majestic firs and oaks gave arches which excluded the
sun's heat and glare; all was fresh and pure; man had




408        SCENES  AND ADVENTURES
made no mark, and doves alone were there. Look back!
-nought but blue or snow-white mountains meets the
eye.
The sudden transition from long, dreary marches to
this matchless spot, gave it a heightened, inexpressible
charm.  I threw myself on the soft sod-apart-and felt
like a worshipper of Solitude in a beautiful temple dedicated by Nature.  Silence, as of ages, was only broken
by natural music,-a wild but matchless harmony of
three voices: of the winds, gently breathing through
IEolian pine leaves-of the babbling and murmuring
fountains-of the cooing doves.
All were melancholy, and one was of love.
How dissonant here the clamor of rude troopers and
the clang of arms!
Civilization ever advances sword in hand, with poisons,
pestilence, and crime in her train.
Alas, how short and few are these pleasant pauses in
life's journey!  Then, oh Memory! guard thy scant
treasures well!
We were marching over the flat highlands; the novelty
of forest trees diversifying the prairie was still delightful:
-there was no water; for fifteen miles we marched
on; but a cool breeze fanned our faces, and a pleasant
screen of clouds befriended us.  We came then to the
heads of another lovely valley, which could not be
greener.  The camp is in a pleasant dale; very near it
rises a great hill-a knob of the mountain-with grass,
and granite rocks, and fir trees: the many springs send
their crystal tribute to a little lake, as if to linger here
before they wander forth together to the dull plains, and
to be lost in the turbid Platte.
July 25th.-Last night I was moody and sleepless, and




IN THE ARMY.                  409
so witnessed several sublime and beautiful changes of
weather and sky, accompanied by a startling incident.
The labors of the day, the duties of the evening, all
over, sleep had followed, as the laborer's luxury: lights
had gone out; the little fires had sunk and paled; sounds
gradually died away; the tents gleamed strangely in the
moonlit solitude.  I would have taken refuge from my
thoughts in sleep; but sleep often flies us when most
invoked.
At last I wandered forth alone, and ascended the
mount.
The moon, not yet full, was high in heaven; the deep
shadows of the pines slept on the grassy mountain top;
the little lake below brightly mirrored the glittering sky;
now and then came deep breaths of air,-like sighs from
the gentle heart of Night. Long I reclined motionless
upon a rock: there was no sight or sound of past, or present life; but I had no thought of loneliness,-it was a
luxurious oblivion! I seemed to grow a portion of the
pure and beautiful elements around.
At last,-so strangely then and there!-there came
stealing on the night, a strain of soft music!
I sighed, as this heaven-bestowed key to all hearts, and
to all moods, aroused within me some of that life, which
silence and solitude so profound had absorbed. It was
like an exquisite dream, closely following the last weary
and oblivious sense.
But soon the music changed to a joyous air; then
Memory awoke to make it an echo of the Past, and ever
vigilant Hope stole forth trembling, like the moonbeam
on the little lake.
0, seductive combination of the graces, the brilliancy,
the joys of loveliest life!-that givest grace to loveliness,
35




410        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
poetry to motion, and gala gloss to all surroundings-that
charmest by music, that expandest all hearts, and exaltest all souls to the power of love-the thronged, the gay,
the glittering ball!
O, soft viol, and tinkling guitar-last echo of old romance!-to this solitude you can bring bright memories!
Methinks I see a "high hall," whose lights might
shame the day; the many white-robed fair,-the farreaching couples, floating in that fairy dance,-revolving,
like the moon around the sun, in circling circles.
The rosy summer dawn is lovely, and sweetly the birds
sing in its praise;-but lo! the sun appears, and gives a
magic brilliancy to all,-scattering diamonds and pearls
upon the dewy green;-so, always to such pleasant scene,
the smile of one, must give the light of enchantment!
If it be not there,-or if it be clouded, no winter twilight more dismal then, than that glaring ball-room
mockery.
My unconscious voice had brought the cynic to my
side, who had wandered forth like myself: but just then,
too, from the cold north, and from a dark cloud, which
had glided there unseen-like a brooding secret evilcame the hoarse breath of a storm, and its far-echoing
solemn voice.
My Friend smiled.  It was a smile that seemed a part
of the faint flash which revealed the now gloomy night.
"You are answered," he said.
"Why ever look behind, and cherish the unhappy,
profitless past?  Why hug delusion and disappointment
to the soul?"
"Ask the pale plant," I replied, "why it stretches
forth in darkness, toward the ray of light."
We watched the storm amid the mountains, somewhile




IN  THE ARMY.                  411
in silence;. but I had not escaped so; my Friend said
solemnly: " The present only is ours; but we should turn
from sad experience to the future, there to lay hopeful
plans, with good resolves."
"Labor and care and depravity are our curse: but
blessings too are the faculties by which we struggle above
the Sensual;-perceptions of the Beautiful, and the Sublime,-all the elements of the Ideal realm, where, Fancyborne, we draw the materials of highest art; they elevate
poor grovelling man, and' Make his heart a spirit-'
Thus to poetry, and much-abused romance, we owe the
cherished oblivion of our animal natures.
"Thus Music, whose source and power are in these
faculties, is the divine art. If art it be, since the first
words spoken by woman upon earth,-as often now,were rapturous music"
But the storm which had followed the higher range,
now came sweeping on, sporting as with fierce joy amid
the mountain tops; and here, and there, and far, the
spectral peaks seemed rising to the capricious gleams,
and many-voiced Echo swelled the glorious diapason.
Sport and music of the Gods!-O! it was joy unspeakable, to stand thus on the very throne of the storm, whilst
its fierce wings hurtled the mountains around,-and the
wanton thunderbolts made the elements to tremble!
But suddenly, with a direful crash amid the Titanic
rocks, there came a wondrous glare, that revealed through
a vista of the black array of clouds, Mount Pike, splendent, sublime, serene, amid the chaotic war!-like a Fata
Morgana, turned to stone.  I was speechless.  I heard
my companion uttering,




412        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
" Oh night,
And storm, and darkness, ye are wondrous strong,
Yet lovely in your strength."
Awed and chilled, we descended the mountain in
silence.
CHAPTER XX.
JULY 25th.-For about three miles we passed an open
pine forest on the top of the highlands between the Platte
and Arkansas; and seven miles from camp we drank at a
small stream flowing to the latter.  When we emerged
from the woods, a very extensive view opened to the east
and south: no more forest was to be seen; the prairies
had a shade of decided green, which was a pleasing
novelty; but this great slope has a southern exposure,
and is high enough to share the mountain showers. Be
this as it may, it is the most promising country we have
seen since we first came to the Platte near its mouth.
We have actually passed Pike's Peak to-day,-within
ten or fifteen miles.
My Friend and I rode together, and had much wonder
and admiration to express upon our night adventure,-our
happy fortune to witness so much beauty and sublimity.
I remembered then, his omission of "the light of a dark
eye in woman," in the only quotation of poetry I had
ever heard him make.  He said it was introduced with
beautiful expression, but all the poet's audacity, to illustrate an Alpine storm.  "Does it please you?"  I love
storms, I said, but not those that gather in woman's eyes;
they are fearful, and so must have strength, if not loveli



IN  THE  ARMY.                  413
ness; if, by dark, he mean black, their light is seldom
pleasing to me; their brilliancy seems to extinguish expressions,-or, their color to veil it.
Friend.-Well, that's a novel theory; what do you
like?
"Blue!-in man or woman.  But there is a rare kind
-the loveliest and most expressive of all-which are
changeable, from gray to blue, as intellect or love for the
time prevails-the beaming mirrors of a lovely soul!"
Friend.-Let me once more astonish you, and quote
from the authorities you acknowledge.
"Oh Love! no habitant of earth thou art!
An unseen seraph, we believe in thee;
A faith, whose martyrs are the broken heart."
"T'hat, skeptic, convinces me now, that you, at least,
have loved!"
Friend.-Let us talk no more of woman.  Angel she
is thought, but oft a devil known-a pendulum that trembles betwixt heaven and hell.
Just then, I thought there ran a shudder through the
air! the sun was veiled, and there came a fierce shower
of hail, and rain, and snow. We were under Mount Pike,
and within the sphere of its elementary laboratory.
We have been all day on the verges of these perennial
showers, which the cold cloud-attracting and condensing
mountain-tops send forth from their bases, as ceaseless
streams through the far plains. Thus Nature, as with a
high-pressure engine, carries on its vast scheme; the surplus steam  from  the hot valleys giving motion to its
rivers. The lofty mountain, which, far as it was, seemed
almost above us, was enveloped in snow-clouds the most
of the day.
35.^




414        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
Our camp is on the stream  of the "Fontain qui
Bouille." We should have much liked to visit the spring,
which was but fifteen miles from our course; but " March!
march!" and thirty-one miles we have marched to-day.
The stream is fringed with groves; and the horses fare
well upon luxuriant rushes and blue grass.
July 26th.-We followed the Fontain qui Bouille seventeen miles, and then left it for a more direct course, over
the hills to the Arkansas. We found it a weary sixteen
miles, without water; broken and barren, and not at all
green, was all the prospect there; cactus and Spanish
bayonet had claimed it as their own; but there was animal life,-creatures which must be assimilated to these
desolation-loving vegetables; there were very extensive
villages of those queer "prairie-dogs," and they seemed
to have formed an unusual association, and with little
nearer approach to the most accepted standards of taste,
than their well-known one with rattlesnakes and burrowing owls: it was now ants; and there were thousands of
their hills,-some two feet in height.
But the most singular things were hundreds of smooth
sugar-loaf mounds, varying in height from five to twenty
feet; but these stand near the foot of the hills, on the
alluvial plain. We had no time for any satisfactory examination.
The morning was distressingly warm; and as usual,
the thunderclouds gathered about the mountains,-Pike's
Peak behind us, and a range to our right beyond the
Arkansas; and, as usual, they sent forth, as if for battle,
their cloudy squadrons, thundering over the plains between. 0, beautiful were they, in constant motion, with
ever varying combination, as if in glorious sport! But at
times they seemed to unite, and threaten us with fire and




IN  THE ARMY.                  415
flood; then, from the dark array would issue thunderbolts and fiery gleams; —but our silent ranks moved
steadily on;-and suddenly the sun would brightly interpose; the baffled clouds would break off muttering, with
pelting discharges upon all around.
Across the river,-but we cannot see it for trees and
bushes,-is Mexico, or Texas perhaps; and sixty miles
within the disputed ground are the Spanish Peaks, which
we have seen. It seems strange that Spain should have
left memorials so far inland;-so far north. How rapidly
did she degenerate! So must think at least all believers
in militia, and call hers cowardly; for they ran away
from every battle which they should have fought,-and
in defence of their native land; except for harassing the
enemy's escort, " the Duke" accounted them as so many
sheep. I attribute all that to want of capable officers and
discipline.
And what news are we to hear when we reach " the
States?" (when we complete this march, which in some
respects, may be unparalled in history.) When it began,
there was every prospect of war with Mexico, and even
with England. But we consider a war with Mexico so inevitable, that our distant march at this time has been
criticised in camp; and we have some idea of meeting
orders, to keep our course south to Santa Fe.
Sixty-four miles in two days! Wonderful in the last
quarter of 2400 miles, on poor grass; dragoons-with
carbine, sabre, pistols, cartridges, two blankets, a great
coat, picket rope, and iron pin, &c. But it must break
down anything but a cast iron horse to march thus incessantly for a hundred days!
There is no game. We have not seen a herd of buffalo
for sixteen days, and shall not probably for five days




416        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
to come: and yet this has been considered the buffalo
country. And the Indian country too!-and where are
they?  The very road we have followed answers. It
connects a chain of trading posts, where whiskey and
gunpowder are bartered for robes and tongues; it destroys soul and body,-man and beast together. Verily
the golden calf of civilization has been raised far in the
wilderness!
July 27th.-We have had the pleasure of marching today twenty-two miles over a baked white clay surface,
accompanied under the broiling sun by a breeze which
very gently enveloped us,-as in a secondary atmosphere
-with dust, which gave to all a semblance, not strictly
defined, whether of millers or hodmen. This charming
promenade was adorned solely by a dry and repulsive
sort of bush, which served to remind us that any comfortable vegetation could by no possibility there exist.
We crossed early a nameless stream,-supposed to be
generally dry-which was absolutely a torrent of mud,
twenty paces wide, and near three feet deep; it was
almost dangerous to ford. The river for some miles lower
was almost as muddy.  Here, it is unusually clear: the
current is very great, frequently over stones and gravel:
its immediate valley is generally several miles wide: the
bluffs with little grass have frequently abrupt geometrical
shapes.
Again we have thunderstorms around us, but escape
with a sprinkle. It is said to be forty miles to Bent's
Fort. Our provisions are nearly gone.
July 28th.-After coming an hour or two this morning
due east, as yesterday-and over the same white clay,
facing a blistering sun,-suddenly a charming north wind
came to breathe a new life into us, and drive off our dusty




IN THE ARMY.                   417
infliction. The valley is here very wide, the river clear
and very swift; it is about three hundred feet wide, and
deeper than it is far below.  It is, too, continuously
adorned by groves on the banks and islands.  The soil
is still very poor,-of sand and gravel; but we crossed
one fine meadow of six or seven hundred acres.  The
river once forced us for several miles to pass over the
hills; but nothing like mountains were visible on either
side.
A singular animal has been caught here; in fact, it
made no effort to escape. A naturalist, who joined us at
Fort Laramie, pronounces it a "gopher rat;" but it
seems unknown to the dwellers of this wilderness.
Having marched twenty-one miles, we encamped rather
early, at half-past two o'clock. Now,-at six,-a dark
thunderstorm is bursting over us.
July 29th.-A pleasant day, with a cool breeze, which
made all comfortable. As we passed on this morning, we
saw, a half mile to our right near the river bank, a small
party with a wagon moving westward;-whereupon it was
visited, some barrels of alcohol destroyed-men and wagon seized and brought with us.
Over a smooth, gravelly, second bank prairie, we
caught sight, at several miles distance, of the national
flag, floating amid picturesque foliage and river scenery,
over a low dark wall, which had a very military semblance.
Very gradually and tediously we approached; and then
were we more surprised, at the fine appearance and
strength of the trading fort. An extensive square, with
high adobe walls, and two large towers at opposite angles;
and all properly loopholed. Our near approach was saluted by three discharges from a swivel gun; the walls
being well "manned." The Colonel and suite were most




418        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
hospitably greeted at the sally-port, by Messrs. St. Vrain
and C. Bent.  The regiment marched on, and encamped
at the first grassy meadow, a mile or two lower down. A
number of officers partook of a good dinner at the fort.
Amongst a few luxuries which we here attain, are
several newspapers, of later date by some weeks than we
have seen.  The commissary reports the provisions in
perfect preservation-especially the hard bread;'tis a
pity there is no flour. We arrived with rations for a
single day.
This afternoon a party of a dozen Mexicans passed our
camp,-being questioned and allowed to proceed; they
have a trading venture for the Chians. The majority
of the hands at the fort are Mexicans; and the Spanish
the prevailing language; but with English, French, and
Indian additions and combinations, there is no slight confusion of tongues.
We have been visited, too, by a kind of double animal,
not exactly a centaur, but a form of Mexican humanity,
appearing to grow from the caudal extremity of a donkey;
furnishing the concern however with an extra pair of legs.
The head wore a white cotton cap, and one arm flourished
a stick or wand, which seemed a cause of dread and perplexity to the foreparts, which were without appendage
or ornament. Between was a bag of wheat of Taos.
There has been quite a lively exchange of broken-down
horses for ponies and mules; and very much "unsight,
unseen;" a horse was a horse, if he could stand up; a
pony was only expected to go. Two young antelopes
were presented to an officer, who then purchased a mule
and cart for their conveyance.
Here we lose sight of Pike Mountain, after journeying rapidly in view for nine days. It is said to be visible




IN  THE ARMY.                  419
from some river bluff, eighty or ninety miles further on.
We have found it about four hundred miles from Fort
Laramie, and the route we have followed is the best natural road we have yet seen. There is nothing to prevent
a light carriage from passing it, twelve miles to the hour;
and this so near the mountains, and in view of perpetual
snow.
August 3d, 1845. —Our march was continued from
Bent's Fort, July 30th:-following the river eastward
with our wonted pertinacity of progression; next day we
passed by what is called the Big Timbers. It is a narrow forest on islands and low bottoms, extending fifteen
or twenty miles: it is known and important as a wintering place, and refuge from storms. Here, beside fuel,
those who can have no better, find shelter from the wintry
winds which sweep with a furious swing over these vast
plains, which themselves shrink beneath the dismal protection of an unbroken sheet of snow. As my once
anticipated wintry refuge, it possessed for me an unusual
interest.
That day too we encountered a large party of New
Mexican Indians, the Apaches,-with some Kiawas in
company. They were large, handsome men, of a frank
and pleasant bearing. The faces of some of them resembled rather the Caucasian than the Indian caste. Their
hair was long, occasionally clubbed behind, in our delectable female fashion. All were mounted, and their equipage had the profuse silver and steel adornments, of which
many a rich Mexican would gladly have confessed to more
than the style. They embrace in the graceful and pleasant Spanish and Mexican manner; and they fail not to
reveal eloquently the true Indian trait of " mucho ambre."




420        SCENES AND ADVENTURES
In what tongue, unknown, did ever Indian conceal his remarkable hunger?
They had with them a Mexican youth, who had probably
been captured many years before: a very slender, singular being-with yellowish hair, pendent from the temples
like two long queues. He spoke Spanish but poorly,as did our interpreter-but we thought we made out two
points, viz.: that he liked the Indians, and that the Mexicans were afraid of them.
These fellows gave us to understand that they had been
on an expedition against the Pawnees; and this indicated
some contempt-possibly ignorance-of the small matter
of boundaries; but no doubt, it was in retaliation; for
the hand of the Pawnees is raised against all men.
This day we first came in sight of the drifting white
sand-hills, which border the southern side of the river for
one or two hundred miles; of fantastic changing shapes,
often dazzling white, and supporting a few stunted cedars
and plum bushes: their air of desolation does not at all
prevent them from pleasing the eye, whilst a certain wildness in their appearance excites the imagination. Indeed, I know them as the refuge and ambush of beasts of
prey, and of wilder and fiercer men.
A few hundred paces below this camp were the framework remains of an Indian "medicine lodge," looking
like a dismantled circus. We found in it four buffalo
skulls, with the eye-holes stopped with dry grass; tied
overhead were a bundle of rods, a bow, pipe and stem,
and some wild pumpkins.  " Medicine man" is the literal
meaning of the Indian designation of the individual who
always unites the professions of physician and priest; he
deals in vegetable medicines, in relics, charms, and incantations. On solemn occasions, many superstitious cere



IN THE ARMY.                   421
monies are performed, and mysteries which at least
remind us of those of ancient Greece and Rome. Sometimes superstition becomes so extravagant that many horrors of physical suffering are eagerly submitted to. I
will mention a single one, repeatedly witnessed by a
friend: the fanatic, having a sufficient band of skin
divided from the back, and a rope tied to it, drags thereby
a buffalo skull, until, from natural decay, the rope tears
loose!
The braves, the aspirants to renown, before undertaking
some martial exploit, each imposes on himself the most
extraordinary fasts and vigils; sometimes on a rock or
lofty hill, in unchanged posture-like the brahmin-for
days together chanting songs or hymns; their natures
thus etherealized by fasting,-their imaginations unnaturally excited,-witnessing in their solitudes, solemn or
sublime natural phenomena,-these poor savages then
reach a spiritual exaltation or ecstasy, in which the Great
Spirit favors them, they assert, with direct communications,-of approval, of promise, or of warning.
A few miles lower is Chouteau's Island,-an old crossing of the Santa Fe road; and known also as the scene
of several Indian engagements, first with traders, afterward with our troops; (and on this day sixteen years ago.)
CHAPTER XXI.
AUGUST 4th.-We marched at half-past 6 o'clock.
That means that two hours earlier a trumpet had called
us all from sleep to sudden labors; first, arms in hand,
-there is an inspection; —then a "stable call," which
36




422        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
the poor horses know well, although they have perhaps
forgotten what a stable is, or have despaired ever to see
one again; possibly they retain a vague memory of the
grain, which, on a time, was served to them at that signal.
Now, they whinny a morning greeting to their masters,
and seem grateful for a little rubbing of their stiffened
limbs, and removal to fresh grass.  Meanwhile, the cook
of each mess (of six or seven men) has been preparing
hot coffee; and offers it with the unleavened cakes which
were baked over night against a spade or board, and some
boiled or fried buffalo meat for breakfast: as a rarity, he
gives them a morsel of fried pork. Then,-at the signal
for the new guard to saddle,-baggage is prepared and
packed in the wagons; the ceremonies of guard mounting
over, the assembled trumpeters sound "boots and saddles," when,-in a quarter of an hour-all bridle, saddle,
and arm, and the last preparations are completed; then,
"to horse," and the regiment is almost instantly in
" order of battle;" and at the "advance!" each squadron
in turn ahead, we all ride forth to "battle" with space,
with fatigue, perhaps with great heats and dust-with
saddening wastes,-with thirsts and fears of finding no
haven of refreshment and rest.
In the heat of the day, if there be water, we wait
wearily, generally unshaded, about three-fourths of an
hour, for horses to rest and take a luncheon of grass, and
for the baggage to come up. After eight or ten hours,
happily finding water and grass, at the climax of fatigue,
with the energy of necessity, we commence the settlement
of a canvas village in the wilderness. The horses are
first to be attended to; but generally with a skirmishing
accompaniment,-a slight scramble for that scarce article,
fuel; this is sometimes amusing-sometimes leads to un



IN  THE ARMY.                    423
pleasant excitement. The baggage is then unpacked-if
fortunately it have arrived-and fires are lit, perhaps in
a rain,-water is brought-generally as far as it happens
to be from the best grazing: issue of provisions is made,
-and this may depend upon still absent hunters, or the
slaughter of a beef; and the cattle, although trained for
several months with unfailing exercise, are not always
"up to time;" cooking then goes on.  We eat with an
appetite; but of the coarsest and simplest food. The
guard then commences the labors of the night; but the
many enjoy with rest —the single luxury of a pipe! (Its
apology, is it not written?) The few also, a fine sunset
or moonlight, and scenery, which may be tame, may be
desolate,-but is generally new,-sometimes beautiful, or
grand.
Well! —I have long been a wanderer, and-I rather
like it.
Yes! it has its pleasures.
It is easy to turn aside to perfect solitude, when
" ~ the twilight soft comes stealing on,
With its one star,-the star of Memory,
Pale,-pale,-but very beautiful!"
A gentle air rustles the grass or leaves; the running
waters too, give music: and then, they seem the voices of
gentle spirits, which may, in this hour of calm and loveliness, awake to Eden memories. As sometimes suddenly,
the innocent prattle of children falls as music on the
mother's ear,-banishing happily, vexing  care,-so,
nature now seems soothed, and harmony reigns.
And as the mother, first musing in loving mood, then
timidly questions her happiness, - so too, to the eloquence of this sweet hour, my heart first beats a pleased




429        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
response; and then, in reverie, my soul wanders over
space and time, until all sense is wrapt in a thought,-a
memory.
Then ever I awake with a convulsive sigh, which comes
unbidden-like an echo.'Tis the answer to the summons
of the REAL.
The mortal sound has banished the happy whispering
spirits; I am recalled mayhap to find the tone, the coloring, the vitality of the scene all gone:'tis a dismal prairie
now.  It is dark; the winds are hoarse.
And so we wear on-like all the world. But often in
the broad field of labor and care, which in prospect, was
all barren, —we find that heaven has provided for us little
flowery valleys of rest, where our souls are strengthened
and our hearts refreshed.
Here Friend came in.
" I saw you wandering off, at sundown; have you been
attempting a photograph of the calm scene?"
" Ah! no bantering to-night; there is a dreamy art of
more pretension still;-that would paint the heart;that would fix the wandering thought;-that would delve
for discoveries in the deep mine of man's nature!
" But I have been writing, my Friend, something for
your especial approval; I have been setting forth grim
realities,-and most philosophically. I did strike at last,
but most naturally and truly, a little vein of-"
Friend.-Poetry, perhaps? by the merest accident in
the world.
"Nature is poetry! For what are sunsets often gorgeously beautiful, or delicately lovely, beyond all representation? For what, the endless variety, the exquisite
combination of resplendent colors, of tints and hues of
beauty, in flowers and birds? Not for utility, my Friend;




IN THE ARMY.                   425
but to soften our hearts-to refine and elevate our thoughts.
Poetry is Worship!"
Friend.-Well, let me hear your specimen of "grim
reality." That you could only realize the charm of simplicity!  For poetry I generally go to Job, David, or
Isaiah.
I read to him my day's experiences. He listened impatiently; and at last broke out"You are incorrigible! Do you call that abstraction
the real?"
" Surely it has a mournfully same, and daily reality!"
Friend. —And how easily by a mere turn of expression, you could have given it the interest of a simple
narrative!
" Well, I'm too indolent; for, if commenced, I might
imagine myself bound to keep it up; and I scribble by
no rule, and with no object but pastime; and, to compare
in some future day the old with the new tone of mind."
Friend.-And a rather singular acquaintance will the
old gentleman make! Pray, why then did you trouble
yourself with this dry abstract of our daily doings?
" Thank-ye for having solved-in your complimentary
way-a question of my own! I will tell you: I am convinced that written descriptions, not only from carelessness or design, but from inherent imperfection, invariably
paint very feebly; and from  consciousness of this, are
dashed with discolored exaggerations; they deceive more
than they enlighten the imaginations of those who are
unable to apply the conventions and the tests of some experience; you perceive, then, that I was experimenting?"
Friend.-I should say, and without dropping the figure,
that the difficulty lay in the impossibility of all coloring;
it tires a reader too much, to attempt more than outlines:
36*




426        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
and all action-even military-is so essentially irregular,
and depends so much upon individuality, as not to be
described.
I find you guilty of " carelessness" certainly; and, bythe-by, you have not a word of our detour over the beautiful plain of Chouteau's Island! Then, indeed, your
everlasting " Memories" seemed strong enough; and what
was better, almost tangibly real; I could almost see the
five hundred painted and yelling Camanches charging at
full speed to surprise your camp. And then an inexperienced youth of twenty years" Nonsense!-a mere instinct-"
Friend.-Led by a military and saving instinct then,
-went forth with thirty men to meet them half way"Well, well,-I wrote what pleased myself; and,another object I have, which I did not mention: with
scarce a book to read, if one did not write, I fancy the
beef and pork and beans would in time form a coating
round his brain;-turn it all perhaps to thick and solid
skull! How is it with you, my Friend? Does yours retain a slight softness?"
Friend.-Don't you think a slight quarrel would help
your case? There is excitement in it at least.
" Never say that! I remember once I was told the
same,-threatened, I thought, in jest; but there soon followed a storm of pain to me!"
Friend.-And did you suspect that what was death to
you, was fun for another,-as in the fable?
"No; I could not."
Friend.-But the healing of the wound was an equal
happiness.
"Inexpressible!-but-"
Friend.-Left a slight scar, perhaps.-Those are beau



IN  THE  ARMY.                   427
tiful flowers. I would not have believed that the prairie
could now furnish such a bunch.
"Their modest beauty is scarcely noticed when seen;
but if you are interested enough to assemble them thus,
you are rewarded by a charming surprise. And how pleasant a study is each! I have an untiring love for flowers.
How perfect and refined a delicacy they possess! Examine these blossoms; how pure and delicate a white!
See the different stages of their mysterious vitality: some
of the corollas are like fine pearls, and are set in an emerald green; some are just expanding and reveal the beautiful life within; others with full-blown petals, which, like
fairy shells, still gracefully guard and adorn the stamens
now crowned with golden pollen; and their fragrance!
what other sense is capable of so refined an enjoyment as
it yields!"
Friend.-With what strange complacency does the
mass of even the "educated," ignore the charming mysteries of botany! They may be surprised into admiration
of a fine flower; but it is a mere sensation;
-" the smallest part
Exceeds the narrow visions of their minds."
"And they lose half the beauty, which, such is their
perfection, they reveal only to minute examination.
"Did you ever reflect how enthusiastic an admiration
for them, is expressed in the language,' Solomon in all
his glory was not arrayed like one of these!'"
Friend.-The lily!-the queen of flowers! And yet,
all the world admire them. Are they not generally personified?-credited with a language?
"The language of flowers! —The language of admiration and of love, rather. Charming symbols indeed!most eloquent offerings!"




428        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
Friend.-What myriads there are here"born to blush unseen,
And waste their fragrance on the desert air."
It is strange. What earthly purpose do they serve?
"What know we of the attributes of their wondrous
and miraculous life?  But how admirably do they fulfil
their divine appointments in the unfathomable scheme of
Nature! More beautiful, more fruitful,-even less ephemeral, than myriads of animal existences! Truly they
may have a language;-and are at least an eloquent incense to the Creator -by them,'the hills are joyful together before the Lord, and all green things upon the
earth praise Him.'"
August 13.-We have come on regularly, above two hundred miles, since the 4th, and with no very extraordinary
incident; we have had some grand thunderstorms at night,
and yesterday-the first time for months-rode several
hours in rain. We have passed many buffalo; but none
for several days, and had despaired of seeing more.
Several merchant trains for Santa Fe have been met, and,
which was something new, one of them was accompanied
by a few emigrants —women and children. Are the Anglo-Saxons breaking out in a new place?
Two marches back, our eyes were first gladdened by
the view of green prairies; the regular Missouri grasses;
beautiful, indeed,-but not so nutritious as some dryer
sorts farther West.
After marching about five miles this morning through
the  savannas of Walnut Creek, where we had encamped, and of the Arkansas, which we are about to
leave, we saw to our surprise a large gang-perhaps a
thousand-buffalo on the hills to our left.




IN THE ARMY.                   429
Soon about a dozen of us might have been seen very
deliberately diverging from the road, whilst the column
moved on; what would stop it! After riding a mile or
two, we gained a slight hollow, quite near, and to the leeward, of course, of the unsuspicious herd; then we allowed two still-hunters to creep on for deliberate shots,
while we inspected our appointments, and made our plans;
-never had I been so deliberate! and it was bad luck to
me as will be seen.
Now, mount and away! The long hill on which the
chase began, ranged directly in the course of the march,
and there we expected to drive the game; the wind was
from that quarter; and they almost always run against
it; the attack of course was towards the desired direction; and carbine men, who fire best to the left, dashed
for their right flank, and those with pistols for their left.
All would not do: whether to return to their more usual
haunts,-or for their advantage in running down hill
(arising from their great strength of shoulder), they
turned right on us, charged and broke our centre, and
went rushing down the long slope whence we came,about twenty abreast;-the dense column reaching about
a quarter of a mile, and like a great black serpent! And
thus I found myself on their right flank, where I could
not so well use my pistols: down we all went recklessly
hugging their flanks; and I penetrated their column, and
gained the other side: for this manoeuvre they assist, by
diverging from behind you-by which at first you are enclosed; they were so thick, that one or two falling, it was
only by a powerful effort-very discomposing to his rider
-that my horse was able to avoid tumbling over them.
There was now a rattling fire, and a slight whistling of
balls; and the fun "grew fast and furious." I shot a




430        SCENES AND  ADVENTURES
fat cow while in the jam, and I only know I did not see
her fall, and immediately lost sight of her; then I bore
down upon another very large one, and whatever the
cause, my down-hill shot was a bad one, too high; then
reloading, I got in pursuit-with another officer-of a
detachment of about thirty, determined this time to powder-burn my game.  My noble horse soon bringing me
alongside, I perceived on lowering my pistol to the aim,
that the cap was gone! I replaced it-losing ground:
again I was close alongside, when, with indescribable disappointment, the same thing occurred! Just then my
companion, by hard spurring, got near enough behind the
buffalo to cripple one by his fire. In my over-care, I
had on the hill unnecessarily replenished my cap-pouch,
from a friend's, with caps which were slightly too large.
And thus little advantage did I take of having the best
horse in the field, which was still infinitely eager for the
chase.
Thus, unexpectedly, we got about eight hundred pounds
of the very best meat we have had. But what a weary ride
this hot afternoon, following the regiment about twenty
miles!
Aug. 24th.-Twenty-two hundred miles in ninety-nine
days!
We left the Kansas River this morning, with a blundering Shawnee guide, who called it eighteen miles to
Fort Leavenworth.  Passing first deep dales and very
broken hills, well clothed with forest, we then emerged
upon prairies. We found Stranger River eleven miles (it
had been called six)-still we marched on through rank
grass, and weed, and bush, hopefully; as home was the
busy thought that engrossed us. After eighteen miles
we were forced to halt at a branch for rest for the animals;




IN  THE ARMY.                  431
the heat had become excessive; but just before stopping,
we had seen, we thought, afar off, Pilot Knob,-a landmark, four miles below the post.
At oneo'clock, we moved on again;-forcing our way
wearily, through the rank grass of a wet season; rising
and descending continually, hill after hill of rolling
prairie; like a stately ship which has weathered with
narrow escape a mighty tempest, and strained every joint
laboring heavily on the swell, which seems endlessly to
defer the eager hopes of a haven almost in sight.
But now the Knob, familiar to many a chase,-on
horses which the curb and strong arm with effort checked,
-rose in full view; the eye was pleased; but the known
distance realized the certainty of a killing march to attain
the goal. When we struck the military road, ten miles
from home, our poor steeds were a moment animated by
pleasant memories, and tossed their heads, and champed
the bit.
But, good heaven, what clouds of dust then rose from
our feet, enveloped us, and followed us like a destiny!
And how scorching was the sun in this artificial calm.
We dismounted, and some horses then staggered as they
were led: we walked an hour, the perspiration raining from my brow, and my brain throbbing; we walked
right through streams, dashing the water to the face with
our hands.  Still on: the endless last mile of disappointment and fatigue:-the sun went down;-but now the
houses and stables, white and beautiful amid the green
trees, animated us to press on. At dusk we entered the
portal, and staggering to the usual parade, renewed the
line, which ninety-nine days before we formed in the
pride of prancing horses: how many a gap was now! but
the half stood there!




432  SCENES AND ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY.
And there was, perforce, a silent but eager suspense;
then came words of commendation from the Colonel. I
can only remember some sounds breaking monotonously
a dead silence-like the vague impressions of a dream.
And then the ranks dissolved,-the spell was broken, and
-we were home!
THE END.