'.*rD- -, a,, THE WESTERN TOURIST AND EMIGR,ANT'S GUIDE THROUGH THE STATES OF *; A OHIO, MIOHIGANT, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, v IOWA, AND WISCONSIN, AN'D THE TERRITORIES OF MINESOTA, MISSOURI, AND NEBRASKA. BEING AN ACCURATE AND CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF EACH STATE AND TERRITORY; AND CONTAINING THE ROUTES AND DISTANCES ON THE GREAT LINES OF TRAVEL. ACCOMPANIED WITH A LARGE AND MINUTE MAP, EXHIBITING THE TOWNSHIP LINES OF THE UNITED STATES SURVEYS. THE BOUNDARlES OF COUN TIES, AND THE POSITION OF CIYIES, VILLAGES AND SETTLEMENTS, ETC., ETC. NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY J. H. COLTON AND COMPANY, NO. 172 WILLIAM STREET. 1855. = 1 77 - — a I L)/ / F - ~ { Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1850, BY J. H. COLTON, lh the Clerk's Offlice of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. PUBLISHER'S ADVERTISEMENT. THE great region of the North and West, comprehended in the states of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, and Wisconsin, and the territories of Minesota, Missouri, and Nebraska, is daily becoming more and more important and interesting. Its vast resources are in a state'of rapid development. Industry and enterprise, aided by enlightened legislation, are calling forth its energies; and the prophetic declaration, that "w vest eard the star of em2npire takes its way," is advancing to fulfilment. A few years ago this region, then denominated the "far west," was regarded as the outskirts of civilization-it is now (at least the greater portion of it) the residence of an active, vigorous, and intelligent population. The steamboat, railroad car, and telegraph have become its great movers. Cities have sprung up in the wilderness as if by the will of the magician; agriculture, manufactures, and commerce flourish; literature, science, and the arts are extending their healthful and invigorating influence throughout the country. Blessed with a soil unsurpassed in fertility, and a salubrious climate; and possessing, by means of its great rivers and lakes, advantages for trade and commerce, it enjoys all the influences that can render a country prosperous and a people happy. The object of the present publication is to give a succinct account of the states and territories into which it is divided, and exhibit to the reader such information respecting their present condition and prospects as is necessary to a right understanding of the great interest of the region; and also to supply the public with abook of travelon which theymay rely. Great experience, and no little expense have been employed ADVERTISEMENT. in its compilation, and it is confidently anticipated that there will be found in its pages more extensive information, and a more accurate and far fuller list of routes than in any like publication. Both departments of the work have been compiled from entirely new material, and are adapted to the present state of things, and the extended facilities of travel by railroad, river, lake, canal, and stage-road. Under the head of each state and territory will be found its respective boundaries and extent-its physical aspectan account of its rivers, lakes, and internal improvementsits industry, as applied to the development of its resourcesits natural products-its manufactures and commerce-its educational condition-descriptions of its chief cities, towns, and villages, and a sketch of its history and progress. This information is followed by "Tables of the Routes" in each state, which are indexed for convenience of reference. To the tourist, commercial traveller, and emigrant such a work must be especially desirable,-eembodying, as it does, a vast fund of information necessary for his convenience, and without which it is impossible to proceed understandingly on his journey. The map accompanying this work has been carefully drawn from the government surveys. It exhibits the county and township lilies; the location of cities and villages; and the tracks of railroads, canals, and post-roads, &c.; and is the most complete general map of the north-western states yet published. 4 5 CONTENTS. Page . 7 INDEX TO ROUTES...................................7 INTRODUCTION.-Situation and Extent of the Western States.-St. Lawrence Valley or Basin.-Mississippi Valley or Basin.-Valley of the Ohio.-Valley of the Upper Mississippi.-Valley of the Missouri.-Valley of the Lower Mississippi.-Inundations of the Mississippi.-Face of the Country.-Climate of the Mississippi Valley.-The Public Lands, &c. &c............................ 9 THr STATE OF OHo.-Situation and Boundaries.-Physical Charac ter.-Antiquities.- Agriculture. - Manufactures. - Commerce. Railroads and Canals.-Education.-Counties.-Chief Cities and Towns.-History, &c....................... 27 THE STATE OF MICHIGAN.-Situation and Boundaries.-Southemn Peninsula.-Northern Peninsula.-Productions.-Industry.-Rail roads.-Commerce.-Education.-Counties.-Principal Towns. History, &c....................................... 30 THIE STATE OF INDIANA.-Situation and Boundaries.-Physical As pect.-Minerals.-Industry.-Railroads and Canals.-Education. Principal Cities and Towns.-Historical Notice, &c.............. 34 THE STATE OF ILLINOIS.-Situation and Boundaries.-Surface. Productive Industry.-Railroads and Canals.-Colleges.-Chief Towns.-History, &c... 37 THE STATE OF MISSOURI.-Situation and Bouldaries.-Physical Features.-Rivers.-Natural Productions.-Productive Industry. -Minerals.-Education.-Principal Places.-History, &c. -.......40 THE STATE OF IOWA.-Area.-Situation.-Boundaries.-General Aspect.-Rivers.-Climate.-Products.-Industry.-Commerce. Cities and Towns.-History, &c......................... 43 1* Page THE STATE OF WIscONSIxm.-Situation and Boundaries.-Physical Characteristics.-Agricultural and Commercial Capacities.-In dustry.-Improvements.-Schools.-Chief Cities and Towns. History, &c........................................ 46 THE TERRITORY OF MINESOTA.-SituatioQl and Boundaries.-Gen eral Aspect.-Rivers.-Climate.-Soil and Prod-acts.-Animals. Settlements.-Prospects.-History, &c.......................... 49 THE WESTERN TERRITORIES-NEBRASKA AND MISSOURI.-Their General Character and Prospects.-Indians, &c................ 54 Routes in Ohio......................................... 56 " Michigan.....................................66 " " Indiana......................................... 69 " " Illinois....................................... 74 H H Missol'i............................................. 79 " "Iowa -......-................................... 83 " " Wisconsin *.....................................-.84 " "Western Territories................................... 85 rable of United States' and Foreign Moneys..................... 89 6 CONTENTS. ............................................... *~~~~~~.............................................. to New Orlean.............15...14 St. Pau, Min., to Falls of St. Anthosy 195 to New Orleas.................194 Salem, Ill., to Carmi......................128 -toChester......................129 Sandusky City, O., to Beaver......... 42 to Buffalo.......................44 to Chicao...................... 43 to GCincinnati.................... 41 Shawineetown, Ill., to Cape Girardeau. 130 to St. Louis.......................131 to Mandaia.....................132 Sheboygsat, Wis. to Neeah.........193 Southport, Wis., to Beloit............190 Spring field, 1., t o BurligtoI....... 19 to Chicaio.....................121 - to Cincinnati................... ll3 -ito Covington.................222 to Golcon da....................114 to Keokuck...118 to Lewistown 120 to Naples 1...................76 -Wto Q.ucy 11 7 -to St. Louis....................... 115 Terre Haute, Ia., to Crawfordlsville...10...........9o to Logansport....................... 107 Vincennes, Ia., to Alton..............125 — to Chlicagro.........................126 to St. Louis..!.............14 to Shawneetown...............1. lS23 theelin, Va., to Baltimore........... 47 :o New York....................... 47 ,?2hiladelphia...................... 47 ~~ ousle, O)., to Warren................ 26 Zanzesville, O., to Marietta........................ 94 --- to Maysville........................ 23 -to Wooster.................................. 85 - l Mh noOliac.....................63 La Porte, Ia., to Joliet 1 1 1.............. 11 Lawrencebur ia., to Ma ison.. 97 Loansport, Ia., to Toled............109 LoUisvi-le, Ky, to Orleans...........100 - to V i cenn es....................99 Madison, Wis., to Galena 1 19 t o Green Bay.................... 18 Madison, a., to ndianapolis l2 - t. 67 TraHne n,O ewndela. Mto LoTisvillt e p....................8 Madtison, Wis., to ae........181 t o Rockfoad....................180 Madison, ia., to Terre HSaute 13......... Maramec, Mo., to Sprilfiel........169 Marshall, Mich., to Centreville 8...... 8 to Coldwater........................ to 67 Michigan City, la., to Inldianapolis...119 Milwaukee, Wis., toChicayo.........183 - to Fonl du Lac.................186 to Ja.esv.ille.........................184 P- to SheboyWoan...................187 to Sheboyan... 188 to White 01Vater....185 Monroe, Mich., to Ann Arbor... 58 to Chicano.......................57 Mount Carmel, III., to Fairfield......127 Mouth of Wabash River to La Fayette 105 Museatinle, Iowa, to Davenoport....176 New B,ffalo, Mich., to Chicago...... 78 Niles, Mich., to St. Joseph 73 Ottawa, Ill., to St. Charles.42 Painesvile, O., to Beaver.3 to Canton.32 Peoria, 111., to Albany 142 to Bullington..........141 to Chicago....................143 Peoria, I11., to C;ovington.......,.......;140 9 INTRODUCTION. TiiAT portion of the United States to which the designation of" Western States" is applied-the vast countly delineated in this work-is occupied by the new and flourishing states of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, and Wisconsin, and the territories of Mlinesota, Mlissouri, and Nebraska. This immense region is situated between 3C0 30' and 490 N. lat., and between 80~ 35' and 1140 W. long.: and is bounded N. by British America, and Lakes Superior, hIuron, and Erie; F. by Pennsylvania and Virginia; S. by Kentucky, Arkansas, aid the Indiani Territory; and W. by the ridges of the Rocky Mountains. Exclusive of the area of the great lakes, the superficies of these states and territories is estimated to contain an area of 1,150,000 square miles. The country within these limits is comprised in the two great valleys or basins of the St. Lawrence and Mississippi rivers. THiE ST. LAWRENCE VALLEY OR BASIN.-Regarding the St. Lawrence as a general name for the connected line of that great river or water system that unites with the Atlantic ocean in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, its remote source will be found to be the St. Louis river, an affluent of Lake Superior, rising in the table-land of Minesota territory, near the sources of the Mississippi and the Red river of the north. It receives different names in different parts of its course: being, as ahbeady seen, at first the St. Louis; between Lakes Superior and Huron it is the St. Mary; between Lakes Huron and Erie, the St. Clair and Detroit; between Lakes Erie and Ontario, the Niagara; and from Lake Ontario to Montreal it is called the Cataraqui or Iroquois; its course hence to the sea being the St. Lawrence, properly so called. Considered in this point of view, its entire course may be estimated at upwards of 2,000 miles. Lake Michigan, and also some smaller lakes, are includled in the basin of this magnificent river-a basin containing an area of over 500,000 square miles, and enclosing the largest collection of fresh water to be found on the surface of the globe. The source of the St. Louis is about 1,200 feet above the tide-level, but on account of falls and rapids, its elevation on reaching Lake Superior is only 641 feet. Lake Superior, the largest fresh-water lake in the world, has alength of 420 miles, and a mean breadth of 100 miles. Its INTRODUCTION. average depth is 900 feet. Into this reservoir are poured upwards of 50 rivers, none of which, however, are of large size. The area of the basin of this lake is 90,000 square miles one-third of which is covered by water. It forms the upper division of the great basin of the St. Law rence, and is 45 feet more elevated than Lake Huron, and 410 feet more than Lake Ontario. The whole mass of these waters, composing a large river, is forced through the Strait of St. Mary, a distance of 60 miles, into Lake Huron. Sault St. Marie, a fall of 122 feet 10 inches in half a mile, is the largest of the rapids that obstruct navigation in this river. The second or middle division of the basin contains Lakes Michigan, Huron, and Erie, and has an area of 160,000 square miles. The waters of these lakes rest in the lowest depressions of the section, and differ with themselves only 35 feet in elevation. Lake Michigan is 340 miles long, and in mean breadth 58 miles, and has an area of 10,000 square miles. Its elevation is 600 feet, anid its mean depth 900 feet. This lake communicates with Lake Huron through the Strait of Mackinaw. Lake Huron is an expanded triangular body of water, divided into two unequal portions by the Manitoulin islands and a peninsula projecting from its southeast shore. The smaller and eastern portion of the lake thus separated is called Georgian Bay, and is 120 miles long, with an average breadth of 45 miles. The dimensions of Lake Huron are 270 miles long by 70 mean width. Its elevation is 596 feet, and its area 19,000 square miles. Besides the waters of Lakes Superior and Michigan, this lake receives a large number of streams from the N., E., and W. These accumulated waters are discharged from its southern extremity, by St. Clair river, into the small lake of the same name, and thence into Lake Erie by Detroit Strait. Lake Erie forms the most southern part of the middle section of the St. Lawrence basin. It is elevated 565 feet above tide-level, and 31 feet below the level of Lake Huron. Its form is elliptical, but much elongated, being 240 miles in length, and only about 38 in mean breadth. It is the shoalest of the great lakes-averaging only about 120 feet in depth. The lower section of the basin now commences. The waters are precipitated over the Falls of Niagara, and after a course of 14 miles expand and form Lake Ontario, having by falls and rapids in the Niagara river made a descent of 334 feet, of which 164 are contributed by the great cataract. The area of this lake is 5,400 square miles, and its mean depth 492 feet. The length of Lake Ontario is 180 miles, and its average width 40 miles. At its eastern extremity the river proper begins, and after a course of 692 miles connects with the Atlantic. In magnitude it is the second river in America. It is 100 miles wide at its mouth, and navigable for the largest class of ships for 400 miles from the ocean. The water surface of the whole basin of the St. Lawrence is about 73,000 square miles, and the solid contents of its lakes and rivers ar o 10 INTRODUCTION. timated at 1,547,011,792,360,000 cubic feet of water, being sufficient to envelope the entire earth with a covering of three inches in depth. The watershed that defines the boundaries of this great basin is no where of great altitude: so low, intleed, is it in some places, that the wa ters falling into the Mississippi frequently interlock with those of the St. Lawrence basin, and the same remark is applicable to those falling into Hudson's Bay antd the Atlantic ocean. In other cases short porta ges intervene, but oppose no substantial barrier to commercial inter course. On comparing the St. Lawrence with the Mississippi we find no cor respondence in their respective aspects. The St. Lawrence is as re markable for its uniformity throughout the year in the diurnal and monthly expenditure of its waters, as the Mississippi is for its continual change. A rise of three feet is a more remarkable phenomenon id the former than a rise of 30 feet in the latter. The two rivers differ widely also in numerous other particulars. The waters of the Mississippi are turbid-those of the St. Lawrence and its lakes are highly transparent. In the course of the Mississippi few lakes or enlargements occur, its banks are low, much of the surface within its basin consists of open grassy plains, and before it disembogiies it divides into numerous chan nels. The It. Lawrence, on the contrary, consists in great palt of a chain of vast lakes; as its bed enlarges, it has shelving or precipitous banks, generally covered with primeval forests; and instead of a delta, it forms at its mouth a large estuary. TIlE MIIsSISSIPPI VALLEY OR BASIN.-WVe have already seen that no considerable rivers run into the lakes of the St. Lawrence; and this may prepare us for the fact, which is obvious on inspecting the map, that many of the streams which empty into the Mississippi rise very near to the lakes. Take for example the Ohio, which rises within five miles of Lake Erie, and there are many similar cases. It is a remarkable fact, that no mounitains or grounds of considerable elevation, divide the tributaries of the lakes from those of the Mississippi Valley, On the contrary, the waters of Lake Michigan are so nearly on a level with the Des Plaines, (a continuation of the Illinois,) which flows into the Mississippi, that in seasons of great flood their waters not only mingle, but boats have been known to pass from the one into the other. The Valley of the Mississippi embraces all that part of the United States lying between the Alleghany or Appalachian Mountains, and the Chippewayan or Rocky Mountains: the waters of which are discharged through the mouths of the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico. This great central valley may be divided into four parts. First, the portion between the lakes and the Alleghany Mountains; this is traversed by the Ohio, and its numerous confluents. Second, the portion between the lakes ana the Missouri; this is traversed by the Mississippi 11 INTRODUCTION. proper. Third, the portion occupied by the Missouri itself, including the course of the River Platte. Fourth, the Valley of the Lower Mi. Bissippi with the Arkansas and Red livers. THE VALLEY OF THIE OHmo.-The Ohio Valley is subdivided by the river into two unequal sections, leaving on the right or north-west side 80,000, and on the left or southeast side, 116,000 square miles. The Ohio river flows in a deep ravine, which forms a common recipient for the waters drained from both slopes. The length of the ravine, in a direct line from Pittsburg to the Mississippi, is 540 miles, but by followinrg the serpentine course of the Ohio, is a distance of 948 miles. "The hills are generally found near the rivers or larger creeks, and parallel to them on each side, having between them the alluvial valley through which the stream meanders, usually near the middle, but sometimes washing the foot of either hill. Perhaps the best idea of the topography of this region may be obtained, by conceiving it to be one vast elevated plain, near the centre of which the streams rise, and in their course wearing down a bed or valley, whose depth is in proportion to their size or the solidity of the earth over which they flow. So that our hills, with some few exceptions, are nothing more or less than cliffs or banks made by the action of the streams, and although these cliffs or banks on the rivers or large creeks approach the size of mountains, yet their tops are generally level like the remains of an ancient plain."* The tributaries of the Ohio which flow from the Alleghany Mountains, are from their sources nearly to their mouths mountain torrents, and have their comuses generally in deep channels, and often through deep chasms with perpendicular balnks of limestone; those flowing from the northwest rise in the table-land forming the dividing ridge between the waters of the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi, with a slight current, but increase in their velocity until they unite with the Ohio. In its natural state, the valley of the Ohio was.pr the most part covered with a dense forest, but the central plain presents an exception. As far east as the sources of the Muskingum commence open savannahs, covered with grass and devoid of timber. Like the plain itself, those savannahs expand to the westward and open into immense natural meadows, known under the denomination of prairies. The Ohio, from Pittsburg to the Mississippi, a course of nine hundred and forty-eight miles, falls only about 400 feet, or about five inches in a mile. This river and its princi pal branch, the Alleghany, are in a striking manner gentle as respects currents; and from Olean, in the state of New York, to the Mississippi, over a distance of 1,160 miles, following the streams, at a moderately high flood, it meets (excepting the rapids at Louisville) with not a single serious natural impediment. The Monongahela, more impetuous, is let Bourne. 12 INTRODUCTION. navigable far into Virginia. On the north-w~st side of the valley the rivers are extremely rapid. Rising on a table-land from 300 to 400 feet above their months, and in no instance having a direct course of 3(0 miles, the streams, though falling gradually, are almost torrents. The Big Beaver, Muskingum, and Hockhocking, have direct falls; but the Sciota, Miami, and Wabash, though rapid, have no falls that seriously impede navigation. THE VALLEY OF THE LUPrER MississiPPi.-The Mississippi rises in lat. 470 10', N., Ion. 950 54', W., surrounded by an immense marshy plain, indented with'small lakes abounding with fish and wild rice, and elevated 1,500 feet above the Gulf of Mexico. It is a circumstance peculiar to this river, that the physiognomy of nature around its head bears so strong resemblance to that of its estuary. A difference of 19 degrees of latitude precludes much similarity in vegetable or stationary animal production. "But," says Mr. Schooleraft, who visited the sources in the month of July, "the migratory water-fowl found there at that time of the year, are very nearly the same which flock in countless millions over the Delta in December, January, February, and March. It is also deserving of remark, that its sources lie in a region of almost continual winter, while it enters the ocean under the latitude of perpetual verdure." On a view of the particular valley of the Mississippi, its gen eral samneness first strikes the eye. No chains or groups of mountains rise to vary the scene. Over so wide a space as 180,000 square miles some solitary elevations exist, which, for want of contrast, are dignifiled by the name of mountains; but few continuous tracts of equal extent afford so little diversity of surface. The upper part of the Mississippi is traversed by numerous falls and rapids of inconsiderable extent, until, after a meandering course of 420 miles. it precipitates its waters down the Falls of St. Anthony, 16-' feet perp)endicular; and nine miles below receives its largest confluent, the St. Peter's, which rises among the sacred red-pipestone quarries of the Indians. The Mississippi, from the St. Peter's to some distance below Fever river, flows in small streams, (with the exception of Lake Pepin, an expansion of 20 miles in length and 5 in width,) curling among a mul titude of islands, which in the summer season are clothed with grass, flowers, and forest trees; and so thickly covered, that it is said there are but three places between Prairie du Chien and St. Peter's river, a distance of 220 miles, where you can see across the river. The bluffs which bound the river are delightful to the eye, running frequently in high and continuous ridges, then divided by valleys and streams en tering the river; and are covered to the summit with the same splendid verdure as the islands. The Mississippi, after a distance of 990 miles from its source, and receiving in its course from the east the Chippewa, Wisconsin, Rock, 2 13 INTRODUCTION. and Illinois riv,-:, and many smaller streams; and from the west, the St. Peter's, Up,, r Iowa, Tutrkey, MAakoqueta, Wapsipinecon, Iowa, Des Moime, and SalL - ivers, and many others of less note, unites and mingles its bright waters with the dark Missouri. TIE VALLEY OF THE MISSOURI.-The Missouri rises in the Chlippe wayan or Rocky Mountains. As viewed from the course of this river, the mountains rise abruptly out of the plains, which lie extended at their base, and tower in peaks of great height, which render them visible at an immense distance. They consist of ridges, knobs, anid peaks, variously disposed, among which are interspersed many broad and fertile valleys. The more elevated parts are covered with perpetual snow, which give them at a distance a most brilliant appearance. They are covered with a scattering growth of scrubby pine, oak, cedar, and fuirze. The MAissosri rises far within the bosom of the mountains, and is divided by a single ridge from the waters of the Columbia, which flow into the Pacific Ocean. In its early comuse it flows tlhrough small but beantiful and fertile valleys, deeply embosomed amidst the surrounding heights, and forms a variety of islands in its progress, till at length it assues from these verdant recesses by a rocky pass, which has not unaptly been called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains. * " For five and three quarter miles these rocks rise on both sides of the river, perpendicularly from the water's edge, to the height of nearly 1,200 feet. The river (three hundred and fifty yards in width) seems to have forced its channel through this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it given way, that, during the whole distance, the water is very deep, even at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the waters and the towering perpendicular of the mountains. The convulsion of the passage must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn from the miountabls, which are strewed on both sides of the river, the trophies, as it were, of the victory. This extraordinary range of rocks is called the'Gates of the Rocky Mountaias.' At the junction of the Yellow Stone and the Missouri, the river by either branch has flowed more than a thousand miles. A few miles below the influx of the Yellow Stone, the Missouri has reached its utmost northern bend, in N. lat. 480 20'; and curves, by a regular sweep of 200 miles, -to the Mandan villages. The Platte and Kansas are two great confluents of the Missouri, rising in the same mountains, and( flowing eastwardly, the former 700, and the latter 600 miles. The Platte derives its name from the circumstance of its being broad and shoal; its average width being about 1,200 yards, exclusive of the islands it embosoms, with a rapid current, and is fordable almost every * Lewis and Clark. 14 INTRODUCTION. where. The character of the Kansas is nearly similar, being navligable only in high freshets and then not exceeding 200 miles from its mouth. Grand and Chariton on the north, and Osage and Gasconade on the. south, (nav igable streams,) are tributaries of the Missouri. After a direct course of 1,870 miles, and a meandering one of 3,000, the Missouri unites with the Mississippi. The valley of the Missouri occupies an area of 523,000 square miles. Three remarkable features exist in itfirst, the turbid character of its waters; second, the veiy unequal volumnes of the right and left confluents; and third, the immense excess of the open prairies over the river lines of the forest. In the direction of the western rivers, the inclined plane of the Missouri extends 800 miles from the Chippewayan mountains, and rather more than that distance from south to north, from the southern branches of the Kansas to the extreme heads of the northern confluents of the valley. * "As cending from the lower verge of this widely-extended plain, wood be comes more and more scarce, until one naked surface spreads on all sides. Even the ridges and chains of the mountains partake of these traits of desolation. The traveller in those parts, who has read the descriptions of Central Asia by Tooke or Pallas, will feel, on the higher branches of the Missouri, a resemblance at once striking and appalling. Hle will regret how much of the earth's surface is doomed to irreme diable silence, and if near the Chippewayan heights in winter, he will acknowledge that the utmost intensity of frost in Siberia and Mongolia has its fuill counterpart in North America, on similar, if not on lower latitudes." But of all the characteristics which distinguish the Mis souri and its confluents, the few direct falls, or even rapids, is certainly the most remarkable. Between Dearborne's and Maria's rivers, the stream leaves the Chippewayan range by rolling over ledges of rocks for a distance of 18 miles, after which this overwhelming mass of water, though everywhere flowing with great rapidity, nowhere swells into a lake, or rolls over a single cataiact, in a distance of at least 3,500 miles, to the Gulf of Mexico. If, therefore, the Amazon is excepted, the Mis souri and its continuation, the Mississippi, afford the most extended, un interrupted line of river navigation which has ever been discovered." THE VALLEY OF THE LOWER MissIssippi.-After being joined by the Missouri, the Mississippi makes a direct course of 820, or following its meanderings, 1,265 miles, to the Gulf of Mexico. In no circumstance is the physical geography of the United States more remarkat le than in the extreme inequality of the two opposing planes, down which are poured the confluents of the Mississippi, below the influx of the Ohio. The western inclined plane, falling from the Rocky Mountains,sweeps over upwards of 800 miles; while the eastern, sloping from the Appa * Darby. 15 INTRODUCTI'ON. lachian, has not a mean width of 100) miler. The rivers which drain the two slopes are, iin respective length proportionate to the extent of their planes of descent. Althouglih RE(l river exceeds a comparative course of 800 miles, the Arkansas of 1,IJOO, and White river of 400, the longest stream from the opposite slope fills short of 200 miles. The alluvian brought down by such volumes ot' water as those of White, Arkansas, and Red rivers, explains satitfactorily the reasoni why the Mississippi infringes so often on the eastern, and nowhere below the Ohio touches the western bluffs. The lower valley of the Mississippi is the most variegated section of the United States. * " Every form ol landscape, every trait of natural phy siognomy, and an exhaustless quan tity, withl an illimitable specific diversity of vegetable and metallic pro ductions, are found upon this extensive region. It is flanked on the east by a dense forest, and on the west by the naked ridges and rpires of the Chippewayan mountains; while the deep entangled woods of the Mississippi stand in striking relief against the expansive prairies of the Arkansas and Red rivers." INUNDATIONS OF THE MIssissirPPI.-The spring floods to which the Mississippi is subject, are remarkable for their long and steady contin uance; a circumstance highly favorable to inland navigatioti. It is ob vious, on a glance at the different regions from whence the waters are drawn, that the rivers must be high at different periods of the year. It is evident, also, that in the breaking up of winter, the water in the sanme valley is drawn fromn its sources gradually; when, as in the case of the Mississippi, the river flows from the poles towards the equator. Similar remarks apply to the Ohio and the Arkansas; so that the duration of the flood season is thus lengthened, while the quantity of water in a given time is moderated. Generally, the Red river flows out in February, or early in March. The great flood from the Arkansas, the Ohio, and the Upper Mississippi, commences early in March, and attains its full height il the middle of June. Abating from the latter period, it has nearly subsided by the first of August, when the retarded flow of the Missouri arrives to complete the annual iniundation. FACE OF THE COtINTRY.-The surface of the Mississippi Valley may be arranged under three natural divisions-the forest, or thicklytimbered, the barrens, and prairie country. The timber most P.bundant in this territory are the oak, of various species, black and white walnut, ash of the several varieties, elm, sugar-maple, honey-locust. birch, buckeye, hack-berry, linden, hickosy, cotton-wood, white and yellow pinie, peccan, mulberry, sycamore, box, sassafras, persimmon, with several others. The undergrowth consists principally of red-bud, paw-paw, sumacl, plum, crab-apple, dog-wood, hazel, spicebush, grape-vines, * Darby. 16 INTRODUCTION. breen-brier, &c The trees are very luxuriant in their growth, and alo frequently found of a stupendous size. Barrens are a species of country of a mixed character, uniting forest and prairie. They are covered with scattered oaks, rough and stinted in their appearance, interspersed with patches of hazel, brushwood, and tough grass. The appearance of this description of countly led the early settlers to suppose, that the scantiness of the timber was owing to the sterility of the soil, and hence, the title thus ignorantly given, became of universal application to this extensive tract of country. It is ascertained, however, that these "barrens" have as productive a soil as can be found in the Western States-healthy, more rolling than the prairies, and abounding with that important requisite, good springs. The fire passes over these "barrens" in the fall, but owing to the insufficiency of the fuel, is not able to destroy entirely the timber. The farmer may settle, without hesitation, on any part of this land, where he can find timber enough for his present wants, for the soil is better adapted to all the purposes of farming and changes of the seasons, than the deeper and richer mould of the prairies. The next, and far most extensive surface, is the "openings," the rich level, or rolling prairies, interspersed with belts and points of timber, and the vast sterile prairies of the Far West. And first, the " oak openings," so termed from their distinctive feature of the varieties of oak which are scattered over them, interspersed at times with pine, black-walnut, and other forest trees, which spring from a rich vegetable soil. The surface is ordinarily dry and rolling, with trees of a moderate growth. Among the " oak openings" are found some of the most lovely landscapes of the West; and for miles and miles a varied scenery of natural growth, with all the diversity of gently swelling hill and dale-here, trees grouped or standing single; and there, arranged in long avenues, as though planted with human hands, with slips of open meadow between. Sometimes the "openings" are dotted with numerous clear lakes, and form scenes of enchanting loveliness. They are fed by subterraneous springs, or the rains; and few having any apparent outlet, lose their surplus waters by evaporation. Michigan and Illinois abound with these oak openings. The rich "rolling prairie" forms the second division, which presents other features, anid in a great degree another vegetation. These prairies abound with the thickest and most luxuriant belts of forest, or, as they are termed, "timbers," scattered over the open face of the country, in bands or patches of every possible form and size, generally following the meanders of the watercourses, sometimes at short distances, at other times miles and,miles apart. They present wide and slightly undulating tracts of the rankest herbage and flowers, many ridges and hollows filled with purple thistles, and ponds filled with aquatic plants. In Missouri they occupy the higher 2* 17 INTRODUCTION. portions of the country; the descent to the wooded "bottoms" being invariably over steep and stony declivities. The depth and richness of the soil on these lends are almost incredible, and the edges of the tim bered strips are the favorite haunt of the emigrant settler and back woodsman, in quest of game. Over these rolling "prairies" the fire commonly passes in the autumn, and to this cause is attributed their want of trees; as, whenever a few years elapse without the fire touching a district, the thick-sown seeds of the slumbering furest, with which the rich vegetable mould is laden, spring up from the green sod -of the prairies. The surface is first covered with brushwood, composed of sumach, hazel, wild-cherry, and oak; and if the conflagrations be kept out, other forest trees follow. The third division is the vast boundless prairies of the "Far West," unbroken, save by the forest, rising on the alluvian of some water-course below their level, or by the skirts of knotted and harsh oak-wood, of thick and stinted growth. The prairies occupy the highest part of the table-land, towards the sources of the great rivers and their tributaries. They abound with abrupt and pecu liarly shaped flinty hills, swelling up from the general level; great salt plains, and occasionally with isolated rocks rising from the surface, with perpendicular sides, as though cut by the hand of man, standing alone in the midst of these prairies, a wonder to the Indian and the trapper. They are seldom perfectly level. As you advance, one immense sea of grass swells to the horizon after another, unbroken, for miles, by rock or tree. They are the home of the bison, and the hunting-ground of the roving banids of the red men of the VVest. CLIMATE OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.- * "We may conceive four distinct climates between the sources and the outlet of the Mississippi. The first commencing at its source and terminating at Prairie du Chien, corresponds pretty accurately to the climate - between Montreal and Boston, with this difference, that the amount of snow falling in the former is much less than in the latter region. The growing of gourd seed corn, which demands a higher temperature to bring it to maturity, is not pursued in this region. The Irish potato is raised in this climate in the utmost perfection. Wheat and cultivated grasses succeed well. The apple and pear-tree require fostering and southern exposure to bring fiuit to perfection. The peach-tree has still more the habits and the delicacy of a southern stranger, and requires a sheltered declivity with a southern exposure, to succeed at all. Five months in the year may be said to be under the dominion of winter. For that length of time the cattle require shelter in the severe weather, and the still waters remain frozen. The second climate extends over the opposite states of Missouri and Illinois in their whole extent, or the country between 430 and 370. *Flint. 18 INTRODUCTION. Cattle, though mich benefited by sheltering, and often needing it, here seldom receive it. It is not so favorable for cultivated grasses as the preceding region. Gourd-seed corn is the only kind extensively planted. The winter commences with January and ends with the second week ill February; the ice in the still waters after that time thaws. WVheat, the inhabitant of a variety of climates, is at home as a native in this. The persimmon and the paw-paw are found in its whole extent It is the favored region of the apple, the pear, and the peach. Snow neither falls deep nor lies long. The Irish potato succeeds to a certain extent, but not as well as in the former climate; but this disadvantage is supplied by the sweet potato, which, though not at home in this climate, with a little care in the cultivation, flourishes. The grandeur of the vegetation, and the temperature of March and April, indicates an approach towards the southern regions. "The third climate extends from 370 to 310. Below 350, in the rich alluvial soils, the apple-tree begins to fail in bringing its fruit to perfecLion; apples worth eating are seldom raised much below New Madrid. Below 330, commences the proper climate for cotton, and here it is the staple article of cultivation. Festoons of long moss hang from the trees and darken the forest, and the palmetto gives to the low alluvial grounds a grand and striking verdure. The muscadine grape, strongly desig nating the climate, is first fotmd here. Laurel-trees become common in the forest, retaining their foliage and their verdure through the winter. Wheat is no longer seen as an article of cultivation, but the fig-tree brings its fruit to fall maturity. "Below this limit to the gulf, is the fourth climate, the region of the sugar-cane and the orange-tree. It would be, if cultivated, the region of the olive. Snow is no longer seen to fall, except a few flakes in the coldest storms; the streams are never frozen; winter is only marked by ighlits of white frosts and days of northwest winds, which seldom last longer than three days in succession, and are followed by south winds tnd warm days. "In such a variety of climate and exposure, in a country alternately covered in one point with the thickest forests, and in another spreading )ut into grassy plains, and with almost every shade of temperature, there must necessarily be generated all the forms and varieties of disease that spring simply from climate. Emigrants will always find it unsafe to select their residence near stagnant waters, and the rich and heavy timbered alluvions; yet these, from their fertility, and the ease in which they are brought into cultivation, are the points most frequently se lected. The rich plains of the Sciota were the graves of the first settlers, but they have long since been brought into cultivation, and have lost their character for insalubrity. Hundreds of places in the West, which Mere selected as residences by the first emigrants on account of their 19 INTRODUCTION. fertility, and which were at first regarded as haunts of disease and mor tality, have since become healthy. Wherever the' bottoms' are wide, the forest deep, the surface level and sloping back from the liver, and the vegetation rank-wherever the rivers overflow, and leave stagnant waters that are only carried off by evaporation-wherever there are in the' bottoms,' ponds and lagoons to catch and retain the rains, and the overflow, it may be assumed as a general maxim that such places are unhealthy. Emigrants have scarcely ever paused long enough, or taken sufficient care in selecting their residences as a place of salubrity. A deep'bottom,' a fertile soil, the margin of some navigable stream, are apt to be the determining elements of their choice. The forest is levelled, hundreds of trees moulder and putrefy about the cabin, the stagnate waters which, while shielded from the action of the sun by the forest, had remained comparatively innoxious, exposed now to the burning rays of the sun, and rendered more deleterious by being filled with trunks and branches of decaying trees, and all kinds of putrid vegetation, become laboratories of miasma, and generate on every side the seeds of disease. lWhen it is known that such have been precisely the circumstances in which a great portion of the emigrants to the western country have fixed themselves, in open cabins that drink in the humid atmosphere of the night through a hundred crevices, in a new and un tried climate, under a higher temperature, a new diet and regimen, and perhaps, under the depressing influence of severe labor and exposure, need we wonder that the country has acquired a character of unhealthi ness. Yet, where the forest is cleared away, and the land has been for a sufficient time under cultivation, and is sufficiently remote from stagnant water, it generally may be considered as healthy as any other country. It is a very trite, but a true and important remark, that in proportion as the country becomes opened, cultivated, and peopled-in proportion as the redundance and rankness of natural vegetation is replaced by that of cultivation, the country becomes more healthy." Dr. Drake remarks-" The diseases of this portion of the great valley are few, and prevail chiefly in summer and autumn. They are the offspring of the combined action of intense heat and marsh exhalation. Those who migrate from a colder climate to the southern Mississippi states, should observe the following directions: 1st. To arrive there in autumn, instead of spring or summer. 2d. If practicable, to spend the hottest part of the first two or three years in a higher latitude. 3d. To select the healthiest situation. 4th. To live temperately. 5th. To preserve a regular habit. Lastly. To avoid the heat of the sun, from ten in the morniong till four in the afternoon; and above all, the ni,ght air. By a strict attention to these rules, many would escape the diseases of the climate, who annually sink under its baneful influence." Mr. Peck observes-" The same causes for disease exist in Ohio as in 20 INTRODUCTION. Missouri; in Michigan as in Illinois; in Kentucky and Tennessee as in Indiana. All those states are more infested with maladies which depend on variations of temperature, than the states farther south. All have localities where intermittents and agues are found, and all possess extensive districts of country where health is enjoyed, by a large proportion of emigrants. There is some difference between a heavily-timbered and a prairie country, in favor of the latter, other circumstances being equal. Changes, favorable to continued health, are produced by the settlements and cultivation of the country. In fine, I am prepared to give my opinion, decidedly, in favor of this country and climate. I would not certainly be answerable for all the bad locations, the imprudence and whims of all classes of emigrants, which may operate unfavorably to health." THE PUBLIC LANDS.-Nothing can interest the American citizen or in tending settler more than the history and origin of the title of the Uni ted States to the public domain, of which the general government has the sole disposal. It is a matter of deep importance to all; and as fre quent inquiries are made in relation thereto, and as there is but little if any information on the subject generally disseminated, a brief sum mary of its more prominent points will not be out of place in this con nection. The public lands belonging to the General Government are situated: 1st. Within the United States as defined by the treaty of 1783, which terminated the Revolutionary War; and are embraced by the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, and that part of Minesota east of the Mississippi river, all of which have been formed out of the Northl-western Territory, as conveyed with certain reservations to the United States —by New York in 1781, Virginia in 1784, Massachusetts in 1785, and Connecticut in 1786. Also the lands within the boundaries of the states of Mississippi and Alabama, north of the thirty-first degree of north latitude, as conveyed to the United States by Georgia in 1802. 2d. Within the territories of Orleans and Louisiana, as acquired from ,he French Republic by the treaty of 1803, including that portion of the states of Mississippi and Alabama south of the thirty-first degree of north latitude; the whole of the states of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, and that portion of Minesota west of the Mississippi river, the Indian Territory, the district of country called Nebraska, the territory of Oregon, and the region of country north of the forty-second and south of the forty-ninth degree of north latitude, which lies between Oregon and Minesota. 3d. Within the state of Florida, as obtained from Spain by the treaty of 1819; and 4th. In New Mexico and California, as acquired from the Republic of Mexico by the treaty of 1848. 21 INTRODUCTION. Within the limits recognized by these treaties and cessions oir publ)lic lands embrace an estimated area, in round numbers, of 1, 584,000,000 of acres; of which, up to 20th Sept.. 1849, 146,000,000 had been disposed of; and consequently we have remaining, unsold, an area of 1.438,000,000 acres. These lands, in large bodies or detached tracts, are found in the states and territories mentioned within our wide-spread Republic, now stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, and from the British Possessions on the N., to the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican Republic on the S. After the eventful struggle which ended in our national independence, the establishment of a system for the disposal of the public lands at tracted early attention. A committee for that purpose was appointed by the Continental Congress, consisting of Messrs. Jefferson, Williamson, Howell, Gerry, and Reas, who on the 7th May, 1784, reported an "o dinance for ascertaining the mode of locating and disposing of lands in the Western Territory, and for other purposes therein mentioned." The chairman of the committee was Thomas Jefferson, of Virginia, then a delegate in Congress. This ordinance required the public lands to be divided into "hun dreds" of ten geographical miles square, and those again to be subdivided into "lots" of one mile square each, to be numbered firom 1 to 100, commencing in the north-west corner and counting from W. to E., and from E. to W. continuously-and also that the land thus subdivided should be first offered at public sale. This ordinance was considered, debated, and amended; and upon the 3d May, 1785, on motion of MAr. Grayson, of Virginia, seconded by Mr. Monroe, the size of the township was reduced to six miles square. It was farther discussed until the 20th of May, 1785, when it was finally passed., Our land system thus founded has gradually grown up to its present perfection, having been modified from time to time, as the condition of the country and the wants of the people required. This system, tho work of our republican fathers-so simple in its theory and practice, so certain and admirable in its results-is now operating upon the organized land districts of the United States, as found in the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan,Wisconsin, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, and in the newly-formed territory of Minesota. The principles of surveying are uniform and very easy of comprehensiol..Ieridian lines are established and surveyed in a line due north from some important point, generally firom the junction of some important water-courses. These are intersected at right angles with a base line. On the meridians the "townships" ale numbered north or south from the base lines, and on the base line "ranges" are numbered east 22 INTRODUCTION. or west of the meridian. There are sixprincipal meridians used in the isirveys of the western states and territories. Tile "first" principal nmecridian is a line due north from the mouth of the Great Miami liver to the old northern boundary of Ohio, with a base line extending due E. on the 41st degree of north latitude. The "- second" principal meridian is a line due north from a point on the Ohio river to the northern boundary of Indiana. The "third" principal meridian is a line due north from the junction of the Ohlio and Mississippi rivers to the northern boundary of Illinois. The base line for the second and third principal meridians commences on the Ohio at 3580 30' N. lat., and extends due W. to the Mississippi. The "fourth" principal meridian commences on the Illinois river, at a point 72 miles due north from its mouth; (here also commences its base line, and runs due west to the Mississippi river.) The meridian continues north (crossing and recrossing the Mississippi river) to the Wis consin river, with an additional base line on the north boundary of Illi nois for the surveys in Wisconsin. The "fifth" principal meridian is a line beginning at the mouth of the Arkansas river, thence through the states of Arkansas and Missouri to township 54 north, where it crosses the Mississippi, recrosses into Iowa, and continues to the Mississippi river near Cassville. Its base line ex tends due west fromn the mouth of White river to the western boundary of Arkansas. The "sixth" principal meri - dian is use(i for the state of 6 5 4 3 2 1 Michigan, and begins on the - - south boundary of the state in 7 8 9 10 11 12 a due north direction from the junction of the Manmee and Aui-Glaize rivers to the Straits 18 17 16* 15 14 13 of Mackinaw, having a base - - lisle crossing the peninsula in a 19 20 21 22 23 24 d,,e west line from about the center of Lake St. Clair to Lake 30 29 28 27 26 25 Michigan. When a meridian and base lin,e have been laid out, town- 131 32 33 34 35 3o ship lines are run (at a distance of six miles) parallel to the meridian and base line. These form townships of six miles square, con taising an area of 36 square miles. Each square mile is afection," and contains 640 acres. The sections are numbered from 1 to 36, be ' The 16th setion of each.ownship is appropriated for school purposes in all tlhe new staes. 23 INTRODUCTION. ginning at the north-east corner of the townshi), as seen in the annexed diagram. Sections are subdivided into half sections of 320 acres, (see diagram No. 1;) into quarter sections of 160 acres, (see No. 2;) and half quarter sections of 80 acres, (see No. 3.) Prior to the year 1820 no person could purchase less than a quarter, but in that year legal authority was given for the division and sale of the sections into eighths. And in 1832, a further accommodation to settlers, they were divided into sixteenths, or 40-acre lots, (see No. 4.) The following diagrams will illustrate the plan of dividing adopted in the smurveys: No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. — I —... I The privilege of having them thus minutely subdivided was, by act of Congress, 1846, extended to all purchasers at private sale. The corners of townships, sections, and quarter sections, are designated by monuments established by the surveyors on the field. After the lands have been thus surveyed, they are' proclaimed by the President for sale, and offered at public auction at not less than $1.25 per acre; and such as thereafter remain unsold are subject to be purchased at private sale at that rate. As only a small portion of the lands thus offered are disposed of at public sales, our own citizens, as well as emigrants from all parts of the world, have at all times an opportunity of select.ng and purchasing at private sale rich and fertile tracts possessing every requisite for desirable farms. The security of titles emanating miuder this system has greatly contributed to the rapid settlement of the public lands. The positions o all tracts are shown by the surveys on the ground, in strict conformity with legislative direction; so that even when the monuments, by which they aric indicated, perish under the consuming influence of time, they can still be identified, and their boundaries determined with unerring accuracy. In conveying these lands to purchasers, the brief designation of the number of the lot, or its position in the section, with the number of the section, township, and range, will as fally and certainly convey the title as could be done by the. most critical detail of boundaries and labored description of courses and distances. This is fully shown by the fact, that although this system has been extended over hundreds of millions of acres, including every variety of soil and climate, occupied by people 24 INTRODUCTION. from almost every civilized portion of the world, litigation, as to boundaries, has been so inconsiderable as to place the superiority of this national system in striking contrast with those of the older states of the confederacy. Indeed, where there has been litigation, it has been mainly caused by frauds, and not by any defect in the plan of operation. In reviewing this subject in all its details, the mind is forcibly impressed with the sagacity and foresight of the great public men who organized our institutions, and who, in this, as in all their public acts, have left imperishable monuments of profound wisdom, pure patriotism, and enlarged philanthropy. Under this system the wilderness of the West, in less than half a century, has been transformed into fruitful farms, and filled with flourishing cities; and settlers from the original states, and from all parts of Europe, have there secured homes for their families, and rich reward for their industry. That the benefit of education might be extended to them and their posterity, the sixteenth section in each township, or one thirty-sixth part of the public lands, has been set apart for the support of schools, besides munificent donations being froin time to time made by Congress for colleges, seminaries, seats of government, county seats, and internal improvements. Indeed, our government has always exercised a prudent and patient care over the interests of settlers, and secured to them thi advantages of an enlightened system of political and social existence. Iii many cases persons have settled on the public lands without purchase, as "squatters," and have made improvements on their clandestine occupations. To secure such settlers from injury, Congress has passed a pre-emption law, which gives them the privilege of.purchasing at a minimum price to the exclusion of all others, who previous to the passage of that act, were entitled to purchase and drive away the original improver without recompense for his labor. The management of the public lands is vested in a Commissioner, who is subordinary to the Secretary of the Interior. The General Land-office, of which he is the head, is located in Washington City. For the convenience of purchasers, and the easier transaction of business, however, local offices are established in different places, to each of which a surveyor and receiver is attached. The following are the localities of the offices of all the land districts in the Western States: In Ohio.-Chilicothe and Defiance. Iii lidiana.-Jeffersonville, Vincennes, Indianapolis, Crawfordville, Fort Wayne, and Winamac. In Michigan.-Detroit, Kalamazoo, Genesee, Ionia, and Sault St. Marie. In Illinois.-Shawneetown, Kaskaskia, Edwardsville, Vandalia, Palestine, Springfield, Danville, Quincy, Dixon, and Chicago. In WVisconsin.-Mineral Point, Menasha, Milwaukee, Stevens' Point, La Crosse, and Willow River. 8 25 INTRODUCTION. In Jfissotur.-St. Louis, Fayette, Palmrnyra, Jackson, Clititon, Springfield, Plattsburg, and Milan. In Ioiwa.-nDtbuque, Fairfield. Iowa City, Fort Desmoines, Kanesville, Chariton, Northern and Missouri River. In Jlfi72esota.-Stillwater andi Sauk Rapids. It is at these offices that all sales of the lands are made, and all business between the government and the settler transacted. Tle following table will exhibit the area of each of the Western States in acres; the number of acres disposed of by sale, donation, grant, &c.; :cud the ntumber of acres of public lands remaining at the disposal of the General Governiment on the 1st January, 1849.* Date of Area. Sold. Donations to Donations to Schools and Universities. Acres. 713,~308 1,115,348 696,397 1,024,835 l,"45,219 951,224 1,004, 28 6,751,359 Area. Acres. I 25,576,960 35,995,520 21, 637,760 35,459,200 43,123~,200 32,584,960 34,511,360 228,888,960 Date of ;first sales. States. Ohio............ 1787 Michigan........ 1818 Indiana.......... 1807 Illinois.......... 1814 Missouri......... 1818 Iowa............ 1838 Wisconsin........ 1844 Total....... So ld. Acres. 12,490,215 9,071,223 15,477,629 15,040,145 9,726,361 2,361,0)22 4,567,095 68,7,33,690 Total 228,888,960 68,733,690 6,751,350 (Table continued.) Grants forInteralRemaining with Gra nts for Internat Other disposals General Government tImprovementst.oe States. __ Acres. Acres. Acres. Ohio............. 1,181,135 10,384,436 807,566 Michigan........5.... 00,000 251,245 25,057,704 Indiana.......... 1,609,862 582,141 3,271,731 Illinois.......... 500,000 3.895,282 14,998,938 Missouri............500,000 2,214,678 29,436,942 Iowa............. 825,078 79,199 28,368,437 Wisconsin....... 858,400 650,107 27,431,030 Total --—........ 5,971,475 18,057,088 129,372,348 the quantity of swamp land, as reported by the Surveyor-Geeteral, in each state is as follows: Ohio, 303,329 acres; Michigan, 4,544,189 acres - Indiana, 981,682 acres; Illinois, 1,833,413 acres; Missouri, 1,517,287 acres; Iowa, 33,813 acres; Wisconsin, 1,259,269 acres. - The aggregate disposals of land for the nioe months ending 1st Oct., 18.9, was 3,706,296 acres. Including "grants to individuals and companies "'+rants for seats of govern. ment aed putlic huildings " "mi litarybounies " "reservations-Indian, and military aa naval;" private claims cofirmed," &c. I I I I 26 27 DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES. THE STATE OF 010. area 39,964 square miles.-Population 1,980,829. Tiis flourishing and populous state is situated between 380 34' an(i 420 N. lat., and between 800 35' and 840 57' W. long.- and is bounded N. by Michigan and Lake Erie; E. by Pennsylvania and Virginia; S. by Kentucky, and W. by Indiana. The Ohio river runs along its southern and the greater part of its east6rn boundary for 462 miles, separating the state firom Virginia and Kentucky. Thie northlern part of Ohio, bordering on Lake Erie, and the interior, are generally level, and in some places marshy. In the E. and S. E. the country is much broken, often rising into rugged and abrupt elevations, but nowhere becoming mountainous. The whole state may be said to be susceptible of cultivation, and certainly it is one of the most product. ive and fertile in the Union. In the valleys of the Sciota and the Great and Little Miami, are found the finest portions of the country. In a state of nature, Ohio, with the exception of the central prairies, was covered with dense forests, to which the fertility of the soil gave stupendous development. The most extensive prairies are those of the central table-land. The principal rivers, besides the great and beautiful river which gives its name to the state, are the Mahoning, Beaver, Muskingum, Hockhocking, Sciota, and the Little and Great Miami, which flow south into the Ohio river; and the Maumee, Sandusky, Huron, Grand, and Ashtabula, which fall into Lake Eriec, which forms the northern boundary of the state for 160 miles. The climate is one of the most healthy. Free from the extremes of heat and cold, it is peculiarly adapted to agricultural and other outdoor employments, and to this fact is no doubt owing the general prosperity of the inhabitants. Numerous remains of former and extinct races are found in various parts. These consist of tumuli or mounds, and ancient forti.ications of WESTERW STATES. earth, articles of earthenware, &c. To what people or time these are to be referred, is questionable; but it is evident that the race of Indians found in these territories by the first explorers, have had no connection with them: indeed, they were entirely ignorant of their origin, nor were they acquainted with their use or economy. Ohio is extensively engaged in all the great branches of industry; btit agriculture is the chief employment of the inhabitants. All the cereals, fruits, and other products of moderate climates, are cultivated; and in the rearing of live-stock, the state is pre-eminent, and for this no state has better facilities. Of hogs alone, about 600,000 are annually slaugh tered, and the yearly production of wool amounts to near 11,000,000 lbs. The mineral wealth of Ohio, consisting of iron, coal, salt, &c., is im mense, but as yet only partially developed, and building material is abundant. Gold is said to have been found near Lisbon. Manufactures are carried on with success, and are daily increasing in importance. The exports consist of wheat, pork, wool, and other agricultural staples. These find outlets at the lake ports and the portt on the Ohio. Internal communication is provided for by a splendid system of raihroads and canals. Every element of prosperity indeed is here in active operation. The length of raihroad now completed is 2,100 miles, and the length of canal nearly 900 miles. Education is munificently provided for. There are in the state 12,279 common schools, with an average attendance of 437,000 children. The school fund owned by the state amounts to $1,5f,6,931. There are also about 130 academies, twelve colleges, six theological seminaries, one law school, and two medical schools. The number of private schools is also very large. The state also supports an Asylum for the Insane, and a Deaf and Dumb Asylum. The state is divided into 87 counties. The principal cities and towns are-Columbus, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Sandusky, Springfield, Portsmouth, Marietta, &c. COLUMBUS, the capital, is situated about the middle of the state, on the E. bank of the Sciota, immediately below the junction of the Whetstono river. The streets are laid out rectangularly; and in the center of the city is a fine public square. The great national road iRtersects here, and is carried over the river by a bridge, which also unites the city with Franklinton. Population 17,883. CHILICOTHE, on the W. bank of the river, 60 miles south, and PORTSMOUTH, at its mouth, are places of considerable importance and population. In the neighborhood of Portsmouth is a large number of furnaces. COINCINNATI, the "Queen city of the West," is situated on the north bmnk of the Ohio, near the western border of the state. It is the largest city in Ohio, and in point of population the fifth in the United States. Its public buildings are numerous, and equal to those of any city of like 28 THE STiATE OF O01110. population. In manufactures, trade, and commerce, it is pie-eminent. Population in 1810, 2,540; in 1850,115,I3t. It is connected both by canal and railroad with Lake Erie, and with the whole east and west by the noble Ohio. SPRINGFIELD, on the E. fork of Mad river, 84 miles north by railroad, is a rapidly increasing town, engaged in manufactures, and has considerable commercial connection. The other towns on the Ohio deserving of notice are GALLIPOLlS, an improving place, and capital of Gallia county-population X1,6S6- COALPORT, the chief depot of mining operations; POMEROY, a place of extensive traffic-population 1,631; MARIETTA, on the E. bank of the Mu. kingum, at its mouth, noted for its minlls-population 3,133 STEUBENVILLE, the center of a rich and populous country-population 6,140 &c., &c. ZANESVILLE, on the E. bank of the Muskingum, 80 miles N. of Marietta, is a manufacturing town of about 7,791 inhabitants. Anthracite coal and a clay suitable for earthenware are found in the neighborhood. The national road passing through the town, makes it a great thoroughfare, and, by the improvements in the river, navigation is opened to the Ohio, while the Ohio Canal unites it with Lake Erie and the Sciota river. COSHOCTON, NEW PHILADELPHIA, BOLIVAR, MASSILLON, and FULTON, are also on the Muskingum, N. of Zanesville. AEKRON, 34 miles S. of Cleveland, and about 10 miles N. of Fulton, is an important canal center. CLEVELAND, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river, and the northern ter, minus of the Ohio Canal, is the most important of the lake ports. It is excellently situated for commerce, and has now a population of 19,000. SANDUSKY CITY, situated on the S. sidle of Sandusky Bay, about three miles from Lake Erie, is a point of importance. It is united with Cin cinnati by railroad, and also with Mansfield and Newarkl. The port is continually thronged with vessels during the open season. Population 5,085. TOLEDO, near the mouth of the Maumee, and on the Wabash and Erie Canal, is the eastern terminus of the railroad to Adrian in Mi chigan, and possesses superior advantages as a commercial depot. It is constantly progressing, and must eventually, with the natural and artifi cial means at its disposal, at no distant period become one of the most important places on the lake coast. The present population is only about 4,000. PORT CLINTON, PAINESVILLE, ASHTABULA. &C., are also places of great commercial importance, and are rapidly increasing in population. Previous to 1788 the whole of Ohio was a wilderness. In that year a settlement was made at Marietta, and in 1789 the country was placed under a territorial government, and called the "~Western Territory." This designation was applied not only to Ohio, but to all the district north-west of the Ohio to the Mississippi river, and included the states of Inq,iaaa, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and pait of the territory of 3* 29 WESTERN STATES. Minesota. At a subsequent period it was known as the "Territory iorth-west of the Ohio." The ordinance by which this territory was established forbade slav'sry in any future state that might be formed within the district. The Indian wars in Ohio were terminated by Wayne's expedition in 1794. In 1802 this state was received into the Union. ince then no state has increased so rapidly, and it now ranks as third :n population and wealth. THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. ,Irea 56,243 square miles.-Population 397,654. NMIcHtn.N lies between 410 48' and 470 30' N. lat., and between 820 90' and 900 10' W. long.: and isbounded N. by Lake Superior; E. by St. Mary's river, Lake Huron, St. Clair river, Lake St. Clair, Detroit river, and Lake Erie; S. by the states of Ohio and Indiana, and W. by Lake Michigan and the Menomonee and Montreal rivers. The state consists of two distinct peninsulas. The " Southern Peninsula," or Michigan proper, contains an area of 39,856 square miles. The surface is generally level, but has a gradual ascent from the shores to the center of the country, where it attains an elevation of 600 or 700 feet. The coasts of Lakes Michigan and Huron have high and steep banks, and along the former are bluffs and sand hills from 100 to 300 feet elevation. The interior is mostly covered with fine forests, interspersed with prairie and openings. The country is drained by several large rivers and numerous smaller streams, which rise near the center, and pass off in an E. and W. direction. The Cheboygan and some small streams, however, flow N. into Mackinaw Strait. The larger rivers are navigable almost to their sources. Raisin and Huron rivers flow E. into Lake Erie; Rouge into Detroit river; Clinton and Black into the St. Clair; and Saginaw, formed by the union of several streams, into Saginaw Bay. But the largest rivers flow into Lake Michigan. St. Joseph's, Kalamazoo, Grand, and Maskegon rivers are all navigable by steam. Several lakes are found in the northern part of the peninsula. The quality of soil is very various: in the north there are considerable sandy tracts and marshes; but on the whole the coun. try is not unfertile, and not much inferior to the fine lands of the South for agricultural purposes. No part of the Union is better supplied with fish, game, and wild fowl, and the climate is remarkably mild, being tempered by the large bodies of water by which it is almost sure rounded. 30 THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. The "Northern Peninsula," between lakes Michigan and Superior, occupies 16,387 square miles. Portions of it are the mere development of sublime scenery. Mountains and plains, lakes, rivers, and forests spread over it with a boldness of outline which may be said to constitute almost a peculiar type in North American geography. This division embraces the "mineral district" of Michigan. Much of it falls under the influence of causes which render it of little value in an agricultural point of view. The northern shores of lakes Michigan and Huron are exclusively limestone, and abound in gypsum and saline springs. The interior abounds in small lakes, and enjoys a singular advantage of intercommunication by its streams and portages. The length of coast navigation is about 750 miles, and in this distance are embraced several large bays and excellent harbors. About 40 large, and some 60 small streams, discharge their waters into the lakes constituting portions of its boundary. The whole peninsula is eminently distinguished for the value and diversity of its minerals. Copper exists in vast beds in the neighborhood of Lake Superior, and is frequently found in its native state. In some of the river beds large boulders of this mineral are frequently met with. Iron of a very superior quality is also found; and recent surveys have developed the fact that it exists in an almost pure state, and in larger bodies than even in the state of Missouri. The copper mines are now being worked by a number of Eastern capital ists, and large amounts of ore and reduced metal are finding their way into the markets. The favorable situation of Michigan, having immediate access to four of the great American lakes; its fine soil and climate; its mineral re, sources and other advantages, must eventually make it one of the most prosperous of the Western states. Its industry is as yet only in its in fancy, and its capabilities only partially known. The farmers raise almost every staple of temperate climates, and are lich in live-stock. The chief cereal crops consist of wheat, oats, and Indian corn. Barley, rye, and buckwheat, are raised in small quantities. Maple sugar is a never-failing crop. The products of both wild and domestic animals are large. Manufactures are progressing, but as yet are confined chiefly to articles of immediate necessity. Michigan is perhaps better situated for commerce than any other inland state. It is now accessible from New York and New Orleans wholly by water, and with those places main tains considerable traffic. Canada overlooks its eastern shores, and in several places is only separated by narrow straits. With regard to its inland trade, every facility is enjoyed that navigable rivers and excellent roads can afford. Already the exports amount to an important sum. Flour, wheat, corn, pork, beef, fish, wool, leather, &c., constitute its chief exports. Taxable property in the state, real and personal, amounts to $2-9,908,769. The railroads in Michigan have a total length of 474 31 WESTERN STATES. miles, the main lines running across the southern part of the lower peninsula. The University, founded in 1837, is located at Ann Arbor, and has three departments: viz., for literature and the sciences, law, and medi cine. It is supported by a fund arising from lands appropriated to its use by Congress, and is governed by a Board of Regents. No charge is nmalde for tuition. Provision is made by law for 26 professorships, and al]o for the establishment of departments for female education, for the education of teachers, and for agricultural science; but the institution as now organized consists only of seven professors, and the three de partmelts as above named. Primary schools are established through out the state, and governed by local boards, supported by taxes and a general school-fund. There are 435 townships in the state, in 270 of which school libraries are supported, and provision is also made for dis trict libraries. The number of school districts in the state is 2,869, and the number of scholars 97,658. The amount expended annually is about $140,000. Instruction is under the general supervision of a superintendent. The Catholic college of St. Philip's, near Detroit, was foundcd in 1839, and in 1849 had four professors and about 37 students. A state normal school was established at Ypsilanti in 1849. ilichigan is divided into 64 counties. The principal cities and towns * are Lansing, Detroit, Pontiac, Monroe, Ann Arbor, Ypsilanti, Tecumseh, Adrian, Marshall, Kalamazoo, Niles, New Buffalo, all in the southern portion of the state; Grand Rapids and Maskegon, on the rivers of the same name; Saginaw, on Saginaw river; Port Huron, at the N. entrance of St. Clair river, &c. LAN-SING, the capital, is situated in Ingham county, on Grand river, 117 miles from Detroit, and has been the seat of government since Dec. 1847. It is centrally situated in reference to the settlements. Though but a few years have elapsed since the place was a wilderness, it now contains upwards of 400 houses and several large hotels. The State House is a spacious and handsome building, in the'center of an enclosure overlooking the town, and on an elevation of about 50 feet above the river. Several saw and flouring mills, propelled both by steam and water power, have been erected, and there seems to be every prospect of its becoming a flourishing place. Pop. 1,229. A stage communication is maintained to Jackson, on the Central Railroad. DETROIT, the formner capital, and the largest and most flourishing town in Michigan, is well situated for trade on the W. side of Detroit river, seven miles S. of Lake St. Clair, and 18 N. of Lake Erie. It stands on an elevated site. about 30 feet above the water. It is regularly laid out, and has many excellent public buildings and private residences. It enjoys great facilities for an extensive commerce, and few cities have better prospects for future eminence. Pop. 34,436. The Central Rain 32 THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. road extends hence to New Buffalo, 221 miles, and another to Pontiac, 25 miles. Detroit was formerly a military post of the French, and a great dep6t of the fur-traders. PONTIAC, 25 miles N. W. from Detroit, on the N. bank of Clinton river, contains the county buildings of Oakland, and is a flourishing inland town, containing several manufactures. Population 2,819. It is connected with Detroit by railroad. SHELBY and MT. CLEMENS, on the same river, to the E. of Pontiac, are considerable villages. ST. CLAIR and PORT HURON, on St. Clair river, occupy excellent commercial sites, and with the progress of settlement must become important. MONROE, 39 miles S. of Detroit, is well situated, both for manufactures and comrlerce, at the lower falls of Raisin river, and is accessible for the largest vessels from Lake Erie. Population 8,646. Here commences the Southemrn Railroad. ADRIAN and TECUMSEH, also on the Raisin, are populous villages, the former of which is a station on the Southern Railroad. HILLSDALE, on same road, has 1,067 inhabitants YPSILANTI, the seat of the State Normal School, and ANN ARBOR, the seat of Michigan Uni versity, are towns on the S. bank of Huron river, and on the line of the Central Railroad. The population of each is about 4,870. DEXTER, JACKSON, and MARSHALL are towns on the same railroad. Marshall, which is situated on the N. bantik of Kalamazoo river, is an important place, with a population of about 2,823. KALAMAZOO, on the S. bank, has great commercial advantages, the river being navigable to the lake. It has long been an important point of travel, and has especially in creased in prosperity since the completion of the Central Railroad. A large trade centers here from the neighboring country. Population 2,507. NILES, on the E. side of St. Joseph's river, at the head of steam navigation, is an important place on the Central Railroad. Population 2170.! NEw BUFFALO, opposite Chicago, on Lake Michigan, is the WV. terminus of the Central Railroad, and distant from Detroit 221 miles. It has much of the busy aspect of its great prototype of the east. ST. JOSEPH's, at the mouth of the river of the same name, has a good loca tion for commerce, but hitherto has not realized the expectations of its founders. GRAND RAPIDS is situated on the S. E. side of Grand river, at the rap ids, which have a fall of 15 feet in a mile, and afford immense water power. A large number of splendid saw and flouring mills have been erected here. The village contains the public offices of Kent county, and has a population of about 3,200. A canal round the rapids would se cure navigation to steamboats many miles further up the river. It was founded in 1833, and promises to become one of the most important places in the state. MASKEGON, on the S. bank of the river of the same name, is also a large village, and well located for commerce. It is the natural outlet of an extensive back-country. Pop 404. 33 WES i'ERN STATES. SAGINAW, on the WV. bank of Saginaw river, 23 miles from its mouth, sands on an elevated site, and contains several substantial public build ipgs. It has long been an important village, and has considerable com merce. It is the chief outlet for the extensive country watered by the numerous tributaries of the Saginaw. Pop 917. AIACKINAW, on Mackinaw Island, which forms a part of the N. E. bank of the strait of Mackinaw, is a village of some 800 inhabitants. It is an important military station, occupied by the U. S. forces. The fortifica tions are built on an eminence, 160 feet above the surface of the lake. The Indians resort to this station to receive from government their anlnitities, and are here met by the traders. Steamboats call here on their passages through the strait. Few villages exist in the northern peninsula. Those occupied by the miners are only of a temporary nature. SALILT ST. MARIE, however, is an exception. This village, 90 miles N. WV. from Mackinaw, is situated near the rapids of St. Mary's river, between lakes Superior and Huron, and at the head of steam navigation. It is proposed to connect the two lakes by a canal round the falls, and thus secure a continuous navigation between the lakes, and form an outlet for the vast resources of the upper lake country. The first permanent settlement within the bounds of Michigan was made by the French at Detroit in 1670; but at the peace of Paris in 1763, the country was transferred to England, and at the close of the Revolutionary war reverted to the United States. In 1805 it was erected by Congress into a separate territorial government. During the last was with England it fell into the hands of the enemy through the cowardice of Gen. Hull, but was retaken by Gen. Harrison in the following year On 13th of June, 1836, it was admitted as a state of the Union. Arkansas was admitted on the same day as a slave state. THE STATE 0O INDIANA. .drea 83,809 square miles.-Population 983,416. INDIANA lies between 370 45' and 410 52' N. lat., and between 840 42' and 880 12' W. long.: and is bounded N. by Lake Michigan and the state of the same name; E. by Ohio; S. E. and S. by the Ohio river, and W. by the Wabash river and Illinois. The physical aspect of this state is generally similar to that of Ohio. In no part is it mountainous; but that portion bordering on the Ohio ;34 THE STATE OF INDIANA. river contains much broken and hilly land. The interior is unlulatiD.g, and in many parts clothed with timber. The river bottoms are alwa