I I      Ex. Doc.
d     No. 66.
L E T T E R
FRONf
THE SECRE TARY OF WAR,
An etngineer relport of a reconniaiss(nce of the  Yellowrstone  River in 1871.
APiIL 18, 1,l72.-Referred to the Conmmittee on Printing.
WVAR  DEPARTIENT, Ap)ril 17, 187 2.
TI)e Secretary of AVar has the hoiior to submit to the  Uniited States
Seinate a report of a Fecornnaissa,ince of thie Yellowstone River, Ilmade in
1871, by Captains Barlow and( Hea p, Corps of Eiigiiieers, u1u(ler orders
of Lieutenant GTeneratl  Sheridan, aitd to suggest tl)e publicationt of the
same.
WM-. W. BELKNAP,
Sccretary of  Ir.
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEEPS,
T(st,hiingfton, D. C., Apr'il 13, 1872.
Sir: I ha-e resl)ectfully to transtJlit hlerewitlh a report of a reconnaissaice made iduring thie siumtner of 1871, of the sources of thieYellovwstone Piveri, 1y Captaiii J. AV. Barlow, assisted b,  Captaiii D. P. Hleal),
of tlle Corp-)s of ELgineers, und(ler the ord(lers of Lieuteailliit  General P.
H. Sheridaii. coiimmandintg MIilitarv Division of the Mlissoiri.  A  niiip of
the region traversed accompaniies tle report, aid it is suti,,ested that
they- be trainsitiitted to Conigress withi a view to thiit publi(catioii.
Tle iial) l.ha.s been d(rawii- uipol  stoite, in this oflie, ali( shouil(l Coilgress direct'the puiblicaition of a considerable iniuhber of copies, tra,lsfers ca,ii be rea.(lily p)repaire(d   d i tiurnisiled the Coiigressioiial Priniter.
Very respectftilly,  your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMIPHPEYS,
Briga(die? Genieral a?id Chi i(,oj' o   Enyiieers.
The Hon. the  EECRETARY OF AWAR.
HEADQU-ARTLERS?  [ILITARY l)ITISION OF TIHE M[ISSOURI
OFFIICE OF TilE CHIEF ENGINEER,
Chicago, Illinois, Febritary 28, 18S72.
GENERPAL: I have the ihonor to transmiit a copy of imy report of a reconnaissaunce to the sourees of thle Yellowstone River, made by myself
aissisted by Cal)taini D. P. Heap) Corpl)s of Enginieers, durinug the sum
42D CONGRESS,
2d Sessio)n. f
SENATE.
t
ACCOMIPAN-YI-NG 
,R'FCON'NAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
ner of 1871.  Accoumpanying  this is Captaill HeaI)'s report uI)oI the
ntiiiiier of Inalkilg the mIa,ps.
I transiiiit, also, a copy of a map  parepar-e(d ii) this office, nunder my
(!i1ction, froiii Itii ouitline ftirniislhed by Captaliii Heapt).
'ei1'y lres)ecttully, y-ouir obedient servant,
.J. W. BAI.IT)LOW
C(ipt(ain? of EjgiJieei-s.
BiigadIier CaGeneral A. A. H-uIPHlREYS,
Chi(j. Qf E??gileeis, U. S. A., ll ishington, D. (C.
RI EPORT OF A RECONNAISSA-NCE IN WYO-MING AND MIONTANA TERRITO RIES. 1 71. BY CAPTAIN J. W. BARLOW, ASSISTED IIY CAPTAIN D. P.
UEAP, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, UNITED STATES ARM-Y.
OFFICE OF CHIEF ENGTINEER,
HEADQUARTERS -IILITAARY DIVISION OF TIIE BIISsOURI,
Chicago, Jlli1zois, Decemiiber 8, 1871.
GE'R-EIAL: I have the honor to submit the followilo  report of lly
reconlaissaance through a portion of AIontania,l and -Tyoijiing Territories.
In pire enting this report I feel constrained to offer a few words iij explanatioii of its many palpalble deficiencies, and atlso regardlig the form
in wbhich it appears, viz, that of a journal.
Since my return, other duties, mainly growing out of the destruction
of my office, have so constantly occupiedi  my timie and attention, that
careful stntdlv and proper revision of my field-notes have been i14)l)ossible.  B-ut ]knowing the desire of the Lieutenant Geieral to be informed,
at the earliest possible moment, upon the nature of the country examinied by me, to save tine I have found it necessary to retaill the form in
which niy notes were originally taken, and in some instances to copy
portionls witli little revision.
Uinder these circumstances the report is, perhaps, as accurate, though
less sa,tistfaictory to the writer, tlan a1 naore studied composition would
have beeii.
- m.k p of the route traveled, together with several charts of special
points Of interest, are being prepared as rapidly as pos,ible,,and will
be prcsented as soo50.1s they are finished.
Very respectfully, -our obedient servant,
J. W.  BZAIILOW,
Ca((Ita in of Egiyifleei-s, Uteite(i States Army.
Lieutenant Colonel JAMrEs B. FiRy,
Assistaitt Adjutaitt Gene)-al, -Ifilitary Dir ision of the ]fissoitri.
Oi-dei.s   alid    iiistr)ictions.
[Special Orders No. 149.]
HEADQUARTEIRS MILIT.ARY Divi.,io. OF TIIE AIIS.SOu7RI.
Chicago, Illinois, Jtily 1, 1871.
(Calptain J. W. Barlow, chief engineer Military Division of the MNissoulri, with two
assistantsm  will proceed via Coriune. Utah. to Fort Ellis, M.ontana; fiotii the  last      post ihe will make an exploration of the sources of the Yellowstoije.  Captain
Bai-low will be guided in his duties b)y thle special instriictions frt)m the Lieutenant
General. conillnandinu.
The Quartermaster's Department will furnish the necessary trallsportation for thiis
party. instruments, and ba-gage.
By comiaind of Lieutenant General Sheridan.
JAM,NIES W. FO ASYTH.
Liciitenaant Co'onel, Aide-dc-Camip, J. I. A4. G.
2 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
HEADQUARTERS, MILITARY, DIVISION OF THE MISSOURI,
Chicago, June 26, 1871.
SIR: Captain J. W. Barlow, chief engineer of the Military- Division of the Missouri,
accompanied by a small party, has been directed to proceed to the head-waters of the
Yellowstone River, Montana Territory, and he is hereby authorized to call on you for,
and you are hereby authorized to furnish him, thirteen ridinlg-animals fully equipped,
and fifteen pack-animals fully equipped; also such commissary supplies as he may
need for this party.
Should you not have the pack-mules at your post, and they can be procured from
Camp Baker, you are authorized to procure them from that post. If they cannot be
obtained from Camp Baker, then Captain Barlow will make his own arrangements for
the pack-mules.
It is Captain Barlow's intention to accompany the expedition of Professor Hayden,
taking advantage of the escort ordered for him, but as he may desire at times to make
side surveys you will furnish him with one non-commissioned officer and five mounted
cavalrymen, to be under his special orders for the expedition.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. H. SHERIDAN,
Liettenant GenoeaL
Captain D. P. HANCOCK,
Seventh United States Infantry, or Commanding Officer, Fort Ellis, Montana.
This reconnaissance was made during the months of July and August,
1871, for the purpose of examining the sources of the Yellowstone, Mis  souri, and Snake rivers, and the valley of the Yellowstone Lake.  To
assist me in this duty, Captain D. P. Heap, Corps of Engineers, engineer
officer of the Department of Dakota, with his draughtsmnan, Mr. W. R.
Wood. were ordered to report to me. I also employed Mr. HI. G. Prout
as assistant topographer and recorder. Mr. Thomas J. Hline accompanied
the party as photographer.  These gentlemen rendered efficient service,
and I am greatly indebted to each of them, particularly to Captain
Heap, for astronomical observations. The records of these observations,
together with notes of the trail, were taken by Captain Heap to his office
in Saint Paul, and thus, fortunately, escaped the conflagration of Chi  cago.  The meteorological records were, however, less fortunate, having
been destroyed in my office, together with the numerous and interesting
specimens I had collected, and which had only arrived in Chicago just
previous to the fire. The photographer, also, lost his negatives, consist   ing of nearly two hundred beautiful views of lake and mountain scenery,
including photographs of some of the largest geysers, taken while in
action. Sixteen prints were made the day previous to the fire, which
Mr. Hine saved.  These will but serve as a sample of those destroyed.
The party, as above enumerated, left Chicago on the 2d of July, and
were provided with the following instruments for use in the field, viz:
two sextants, one artificial horizon, one sidereal chronometer, one mean
solar pocket chronometer, two mercurial cistern barometers onLe thermo   barometer, two aneroids, two prismatic compasses, three pocket com~:- passes, one clinometer, two odometers, one pair odometer wheels, and a
~ box of tools.
Leaving Chicago at 10.45 a. m., we were carried by the Chicago and
t Northwestern Railway over the prairies of Illinois and Iowa to the Mis   souri River, where we arrived on the following morning.  After crossing
the ferry in a drizzling rain, and calling at General Augur's headquar   ters, we proceeded on our journey, over the Union Pacific Railroad.  An   other expanse of prairie lay before us, with the broad and sluggish water
of the Platte River on our left.  After passing Cheyenne, the elevation
rapidly increases, and the country becomes very barren. The soil, dry
and parched from want of moisture, was in a, condition closely apploxi   mating a desert, yielding sustenance only to the hardy sage-bush, which
seems to grow almost literally without water.
~
268487
3 
4       RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
We celebrated the 4th of July in crossing the main divide of the
Rocky Mountains.  Why these mountains are called Rocky is not evident until after reaching Sherman and commencing the descent toward
the Salt Lake Valley. From this point, however, to the valley, no exception can be taken to the name, the descent being through Echo and
Weber Canons, with rocky gorges, whose walls, in many places, it is
said, tower thousands of feet above the river's bed, retaining their snow
covering even during this excessively hot July weather. Many of these
prominent mountain tops still show evidence of Mormon efforts to resist
General A. Sidney Johnston's march upon their territory in 1857. Rude
walls occupy their almost inaccessible heights, from whence these people
had intended to launch rock upon the advancing troops.
The descent from Sherman to Great Salt Lake Valley is nearly 4,000
feet.  On arriving at Ogden, we took the Utah Central Railroad for Salt
Lake City, passing through the highly cultivated fields and gardens of the
industrious Mormons, over a perfectly level stretch of country lying between the Wahsatch range of the Rocky Mountains on the left and the
blue Salt Lake on the right.
After spending a part of the following day in this interesting, as well
as beautiful, Mormon city, we returned to Ogden, and thence by the
Central Pacific Railroad to Corinne, at which point we changed our
mode of traveling for the Montana stage-line.
Another day's delay occurred owing to the difficulty in obtaining
accommodation for the whole party and baggage. It was, therefore, on
the morning of the 8th, after a refreshing rain of the night before, (very
unusual in this region,) that we fairly began our stage ride to Fort Ellis.
Two passengers besides my party, seven in all, with 800 pounds of baggage, made a heavy load, and occasioned loss of time during the whole
stage-trip. A stage ride, at best, is a cheerless experience, but the Montana route particularly has.usually been considered almost unendurable. The heat, the dust, the crowded condition of the stage, and above
all the loss of sleep for three or four nights and days, it is said, reduces
the traveler to a state bordering on insanity.  We were more fortunate,
perhaps, than others, inasmuch as our first day was cool, the air being
purified by the rain and thunder of the previous night, and by occasional showers during the day.
The second day proved more tedious, our route dragging wearily
across the large desert of Idaho, the only interesting occurrence being
our arrivals at the successive post-stations at intervals of from twelve
to twenty miles. On the third day we crossed the Montana line, in the
morning, near Pleasant Valley, where we partook of the best meal upon
the whole stage-route. During the day we crossed a divide, separating
the tributaries of the Snake River from those of the Missouri.  Passed
on this day's route some bits of pretty scenery, the Red Rocks and
Beaver Head Canion being the most noteworthy.
After several changes of conveyances, generally for the worse, we
were finally introduced, during the third night, to a "jerkey," a two-seated
covered wagon drawn by a single pair of horses. At this point (Moore's
Junction) Captain Hleap and Mr. Wood separated from the party, taking
the road to Helena, while the others, including myself, continued our
course to Fort Ellis via Virginia City. Spending the remainder of the
night and part of the next day in the "jerkey," we reached the latter
town at 10 a. m.
\irginia City is situated in a mining gulch, and huddled together in
a heap, with small houses and narrow crooked streets-the people being
American miners and Chinese in about equal proportions. The mines 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
here were formerly the richest ever discovered; they are now, however,
much less so, Ind are worked principally by the Chinese, who are content to earn but a small proportion of what would satisfy the American
miner.
The route from Virginia City to Bozeman', though generally good,
crosses some exceedingly steep divides between the Jefferson, Aladisol,
and Gallatin rivers.  These valleys are all handsomne, fertile regions,
and will, without doubt, eventually be peopled by a thriving population.
The valley of the West Gallatin is peculiarly inviting. Beautiful green
foliage extends along the bank of the river, while majestic mountain
ranges shut it in from the outer world, giving it an air of peaceful and
home-like security.  Already many farms have been cultivated in these
valleys; and though irrigation is rendered necessary by the dryness of
the climate to insure good crops, yet it is found that the added quality
of the grain and the certainty of a good yield counterbalance the extra
expense of irrigation.  It is reported, also, by residents, that the rainfall is becoming yearly more abundant as new land is brought under
cultivation. This being the fact, the necessity of irrigation will in time
cease. The mountain slopes are usually well timbered with heavy pine
forests.
Three days were occupied at Fort Ellis in active preparation for the
field.  Instruments were unpacked and put in order, camip-equipage and
subsistence stores selected, and provision made for transportation upon
pack-animals.  It was ascertained that the quartermaster's and commnissary departments could furnish nearly everything tlhat was require(l, in
addition to thearticles I had brought with me.  I increased my party
to eleven persons by hiring three civilian packers, two laborers, and one
cook.  To mount this party I made requisition for twelve ridinig-animals.
For conveying instruments, commissary stores, and other baggage, ten
pack-animals were obtained.
Professor Hayden, in charge of a geological expedition, destined to
the same field of operations as myself, had been at Fort Ellis for some
days, organizing and equipping his party. His was a much larger party
than mine, andi a company of the Second Cavalry, from the fort, had
been ordered to accompany it as an escort, under the protection of which
my expedition was also to be made.  A guard of onie sergeant and five
men were, however, assigned to me specially, in case I desired to leave
the larger escort at any time for making side surveys.  Dr. Hayden proposed to transport his material as far as possible on wagons, then dividing the stores, and leaving with his wagons a portion-to be sent for as
might be required-to push on with pack-animals, carrying only the
remainder and his other necessary baggage. This idea was good and I
adopted it, estimating that ten pack-animals would carry thirty days'
rations formy party, besides the other baggage required. This arrangemenit did not work well, however, when carried out, from the fact that
the roads would not permit wagon-transportation sufficiently far, we
being only able to reach Bottler's Ranch, on the Yellowstone, with our
wagons, a distance of thirty-five miles from Fort Ellis.  The passage of
our heavily-laden wagons to this point was attended with much inconvenience and labor, and consumed three days' time.
Dr. Hayden was ready to start by the 15th of July, but owing to a delay
in the arrival of a portion of my baggage from Virginia City I was
unable to move until the morning of the 16th. The escort, company F,
Second Cavalry, Captain Tyler and Lieutenant Grugan, also moved at
the same time. With the exception' of my special guard of six men,
the escort took the advance and were soon out of sight, expecting to
.5 
6       RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
reach a good caniping-place,sixteen miles distant,before night.  Owing
to the hillv nature of the country, I soon found it necessary to devote
the whole attention of my party to the wagons, assisting them over bad
places and keeping them upright along many of the steep hill-sides.
Notwithstanding our labors, one of the wagons was eventually upset,
its contents having to be reloaded after righting and replacing the
wagon upon the road.  A still more serious  accident happened a few
miles farther on, in the breaking of the same wagon just at the foot of
a steep acclivity, which rendered further progress impossible. Night
now coming on, dark and rainy, I decided to go into camp at once, only
eight miles from Fort Ellis, and to await the arrival of a new wagonreachl, for which I had sent back to the fort. Our cook having followed
the escort to the camping-spot which we expected to make, some eight
miles farther on, our chances for either dinner or supper were unfavorable.  Improvising a lunch from what we could find, and stretching our
tent-fly from one of the wagon-tops to the hillside beyond, we rolled
ourselves in our blankets, and decided that our first day's march, owing
to wagon incumbrance, was almost a failure.
The following morning the march was resumed, but another misfortune occurred at the outset, in the sliding and -almost upsetting of the
wagon containing my baggage and instruments.  It had finally to be
unloaded, after numerous efforts to right it had been made without
success.  Our accidents were now happily over, the mules and drivers
behaved better, and the road became less dangerous. At 3 p. nm. we
reached the point where the escort had awaited us since the day before.
We  had made but ten miles in two days.  This being a fine campingspot, I decided to remain here until morning, when, by making an early
start-the animals rested-we would be able to push on to Bottler's
Ranch in one day.
The country thus far passed over was wild and mountainous, generally well timbered, with plenty of good grass and water in the numerous valleys and ravines. A mine of bituminous coal has been opened
a few miles from Fort Ellis on this route, and has already yielded a fair
quantity of fuel of good quality, some of which has been used at the
fort.
At this place we pitched our first camp, consisting of two "A" tents,
and a wall-tent fly, with a third "A" tent for the cook and his stores.
Our cooking utensils and mess furniture were simple, though sufficient,
consisting of two camp-kettles, one bake-kettle, a frying-pan, and a
broiler, for cooking; knives, forks, iron spoons, tin plates, and china.
cups, and a table, completed our mess equipments.  The cups, however,
became broken from time to time, until all finally disappeared.  iTHere
the photographer obtained his first view, with our camp in the foreground, and the thickly-wooded bank of Trail Creek, a beautiful trout
stream, as a background.
Our general course to the Yellowstone River was now southeast, down
the valley of Trail Creek, which we crossed and re-crossed several times,
avoiding dangerous side-hills. The road, however, was generally good,
with some sharp ascents, requiring the doubling of our teams. By.
allowing my horse to graze while waiting for the wagons to close up,
the beast took advantage of his liberty, ran off; and followed the main
escort, which, as usual, was some miles in advance.  I saw no more of
him until I had reached Bottler's Ranch.
At diffirent points on the road from Fort Ellis, beautiful vistas of
majestic ranges of mountains, lying to the east of the Yellowstone River,
were obtained; and now, as we emerged from the winding valleys of 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
the mountain region through which we had been traveling for three
days, these lofty peaks, from across the river, seemed almost directly
above our heads.  Conspicuous among them stands Emigrant Peak,
near 11,000 feet above the sea, and about 6,000 above the valley. This
peak is so named from the mining region lying near its base, called
' Emigrant Gulch."    The Yellowstone here is a broad, swift streani,
some 300 feet wide, and not fordable.
Our course now lay up the west bank of the river, nearly due south.
The road, following the nearly level river bottom, was good, except at
the crossing of numerous streams flowing into the river at short intervals. These streams would afford convenient means of irrigation, should
this valley ever become settled. Several antelope were seen as we came
up this valley, none, however, sufficiently near to allow of their being
shot.
Opposite Emigrant Peak, a thriving ranch has been established by
two brothers, named Bottler, who have several fields alfeady under
cultivation.  Their crops of wheat, potatoes, and many other vegetables
yield an abundant harvest, while in the raising of stock and making
of butter and cheese they have met wits remarkable success. A ready
market for their produce is found in the mining camps across the river.
Above this point the valley becomes much narrower, rocky spurs shoot
out from the mountain ranges on each side, rendering it impracticable
to move with our wagons beyond Bottler's.  Here it was therefore
decided to leave the train with a portion of our supplies under a small
guard; and with saddle-animals alone to continue our progress up the
river.
Dr. Hayden had only arrived the day before, as much out of patience
with the wagons as myself, and, like me, delighted with the idea of
leaving them at this point. One day was spent in arranging materials
for packing  and taking  astronomical observations.  We  suffered
intensely from musquitbes during our stay at this camp. The nights
beiung warm, with occasional showers without wind, there seemed to be
no way of avoiding their incessant annoyance.
We had located camp on the second terrace from the river-the
broad stony plateau or table-land affording good grazing at this
season, though yielding also an abundant crop of a small variety of a
very prickly cactus. Stretched out below, the broad bottom-lands of the
Yellowstone, with the river running near the foot of the hills on the
east, present a wide view to the north, east, and south: while to the
west were vast mountains forming a divide between this valley and that
of the Gallatin. Our little camp, on the morning of the 20th, presented
a scene of great activity. The wagon-mules were being taught another
duty; many of them submitted with patience, while others became restive
under their packs, and nearly unmanageable. Our pack-saddles did
not prove to be just what we needed, being too narrow for the backs-of
the mules, and thereby greatly increasing their natural restiveness. The
packing was eventually accomplished, each mule carrying about two
hundred pounds.  By 7 a. m. we had started just in advance of Dr.
Hayden's partyf. which, however, came up soon, and traveled in company
with mine.  Our route lay up the valley of the Yellowstone, nearly due
south, for ten miles over a good trail which could easily be made into a
passable wagon-road, except at one or two points where some blasting
and cutting would be requiired.
Some very picturesque rocks were passed, many of them standing
out like turrets from the ruins of old castles. These rocks are
generally volcanic; some fine specimens of basaltic columns were ob
7 
8       RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
served. The river now bends to the eastward; a fine, rushing stream,
called Trail Creek, joins the river from the west just at this curve, and
caused some delay in crossing. The trail now enters the second or mniddle canion of the Yellowstone, and becomes very rough, obstructed by
masses of volcanic rock, in some places rendering the footing of the
animals very insecure.  One pack-animal, belonging to the general escort, made a misstep and rolled down the hill-side a distance of some 50
feet, completely demoralizing his pack, but without serious injury to
himself. Just beyond this dangerous pass the' canion widens somewhat,
disclosing a grassy valley of several acres, watered by a mountainous
stream fed from mnelting snows above.  We had marched but sixteen
miles and it was now only 1 o'clock, but as the animals began to show
signs of weariness and hunger, Dr. Hlayden with the main escort decided to halt in the valley for the night.  I was told by one of my
packers that another valley, similar to this, with better grazing, would
be found a mile and a half farther on.  This information led.m e to pro
ceed to that spot.  A still more difficult and rocky pass than the one we
had just encountered led to this valley, and I was therefore desirous to
get through it while the animals were in good marching condition, and
less restive than on first starting out in the morning.  Here we found
a valley as beautiful as the other, giving abundant pasturage for the
animals, while a growth of cottonwood on the river's bank afforded a
pleasant camping spot.  The surrounding mountains shot up almost
perpendicularly to the height of from two to three thousand feet; their
lower slopes bbing wooded, while their peaks were usually bare  The
formation here is principally granite rock, with a preponderance of feldspar. Here we caught trout by dozens and found them of excellent
flavor and very large; they would bite at almost anything, taking the
artificial fly with great activity.  I enjoyed a bath in the river, but
found the current so swift that I could make no headway against it iu
swimming, while in standing upright it would almost sweep me off my
feet.
There are no practicable fords along this portion of the river except
during seasons of low water, in the fall. The night passed at this camp
was very refreshing; no mosquitoes nor other troublesome insects disturbed us, though a large rattlesnake was killed in camp soon after our
arrival. Following up the Yellowstone Valley, tall mountain ranges
continue on either side, the river falls off somewhat in width and depth,
and. flowing near the eastern range, leaves a broad spread of rolling
country on the right. Several rocky spurs intersected the trail, causing
much inconvenience to the animals, and necessitating the dismounting
of many of the horsemen. One mule met with a mishap and fell from a
steep bank. The odometer wheels slipped at the same place, but without injury.  These wheels are drawn by one of the saddle-horses; the
saddle, taking the place of harness, supports the shafts, which are lashed
thereto. The cart being very light, made of velocipede wheels, and
weighing but thirty pounds, is no impediment to the horse or its rider,
and can be taken wherever the other animals go. Two small and beautiful lakelets were passed soon after leaving camp, one hearing a perfect
resemblance to the figure seven.
Some few miles further on a remarkable mountain, known as Cinnabar Mountain, also as "The Devil's Slide," was passed on the right.
This is a curious and strange freak of nature. The upheaval had carried
the strata. of which the mountain is formed into a nearly vertical position, with their edges standing out toward the valley, a slight twist, or
wrench, at the time of the upheaval, giving the strata a curved appear
!.....
I 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
ance.  Several stand out a hundred feet beyond the general face of the
mountain, and extend, probably, a thousand feet upward, leaving rocky
depressions between, and giving rise to the name of "The Devil's Siide."
There is ample opportunity for him and all his attendants to find amusemenit here. A deep-red tinge, fromnt salts of iron, distinguishes this imouiitain from all others in its vicinity.
On reaching the mouth of Gardner's River, or Warmn-Streamn Creek,
as it is also called, coming in from the southwest and joining the Yellowstone fifteen miles above the middle canion, we left the trail and followed
this valley without crossing the stream.
A few miles above the mouth of this river. a boiling-hot torrent or
water. some six feet wide, and a foot in depth, pours out of the hill-side,
perfectly clear, though steaming hot.  It is. probably the outlet of a
vast subterranean reservoir of hot water, which supplies the numerous
boiling springs upon  the mountain-sides above.  Near this hot brook
are several warm mineral springs, beside which a few invalids had
formed a camp, for the purpose of testing their healing properties.
A system of hot springs of great beauty, flowing from the top and
sides of a large hill of calcareous deposit, and called Soda Mountain, is
found five miles up the left bank of Gardner's River.  Here, at the foot
of this curious white mountain, we encampedl, and remained until the
24th, examiniing the wonderful spring formation of this region, and the
country around it.  The central point of interest is the Soda Mountain,
occupying an area of a hundred acres, and rising like the successive
steps of a cascade, to the height of over 200 feet above the plateau at
its base.  The upper surface is a plain, composed of many hot springs,
constantly sending up volumes of vapor slightly impregnated with sulphurous fumes.  The sides of the hill down which the waters of these
'hot springs flow have become terraced into steps of various heights
and widths, some twelve inches in dimension, while others are as many
feet. In each terrace there is generally a pool of water, standing in a
scolloped basin of gypsum, deposited at the edges by the water as it
becomes cooler.  These basins are often tinged with pink, gray, and
.yellow colors, giving to the whole a very beautiful effect.
The rock in all directions has evidently been deposited in the same
manner as the Soda Mountain is now being built up. When the formation ceases from a change in the course of the water, the rock becomes
friable and disintegrates.  After a time vegetation springs up and cov ers the surface.  Many of the basins have the size and shape of bathtubs, and were used by members of the party for bathing purposes.
The temperature varies in the different pools from fifty degrees'all
the way up to one hundred and eighty, so there is no difficulty in find
ing a bath of suitable temperature. Afew of these springs are strongly
mineral, though most of them are sufficiently pure fop cooking and
drinking purposes. Near the base of this hill a remarkable column of
rock is seen standing 60 feet in height, and nearly vertical; this is
probably a defunct geyser. Iu many places small upheavals have occurred, the rock has been rent openi, allowing an escape of steam and
gas jets, whose formations in the hot regions beneath can be heard
through these openings.  The action of these subterraneous waters has,
of course, worn out caverns in the rocks beneath, leaving the crust
sometimes thin and frail; caution should therefore be exercised in ex ploring these places. Numerous caves and holes were found in the
adjacent hills. I penetrated to the depth of 50 feet in one of the former, and found myself in a vaulted dome 30 feet across and 40 feet high.
On the far side was a deep well, dark and gloomy, into which I threw
':   @.vA*      e.:e:
* * e~a 
9 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
masses of rock, but did not venture to explore it personally. The views
from this camp are extremely picturesque, combining every variety of
mountain scenery, having rocky gorges, in which are usually found
mountain streams breaking into cascades and falls at frequent intervals.
The opposite bank of Gardner's River is very steep, nearly precipitous,
and surmounted by a wall of basaltic columns.
During our stay at this camp I made a circuit of the high red-topl)ed
mountain to the west of the springs, near wliich Mr. Everts, who was
lost in the Yellowstone Basin the previous summer, was picked up by the
men who went in search of him.  The motuntain stands in a fork of a
branch of Gardner's River, having a caion on two sides, through which
these streams flowin beautiful cascades, with oneortwo considerable falls.
I made this trip in company with Dr:. Hayden and one or two others.
Though our climbing over rocks and through thickets, and crossing
mountain-torrents, proved very fatiguing, we felt well repaid for our
labor in observing the grand scenery upon our route.  Many fine specimens of geological formation were observed, one of the most beautiful
being fan-shaped basaltic formations in great abundance.  Skirting the
canon to the south of the mountain for two miles we crossed, but found
the ascent so steep that we were compelled to cling to projecting rocks
in many places to prevent sliding back to the bottom. On reaching
the plateau beyond, our breath and strength were nearly exhausted.
We now ascended to the top of the mountain, leaving our horses
about half way np, and continuing the journey on foot. Here a magnificent view of the Yellowstone Valley was obtained, with its mountain ranges stretching away in the distance, southward, to the limit of
vision  Also of the country lyifig west toward the Gallatin River.  In
that direction is a valley almost level, slightly rising toward the mountains on either side, with a beautiful, clear stream winding through
the center. whose current was so gentle that its direction could not, as
yet, be determined. Grass and flowers covered the hill-side, interspersed
with occasional groves of balsamn, cedar, and spruce.  High cones of
volcanic origin rise here and there iii all directions, some of them probably fifty miles distant.  The lofty peaks directly west, beyond the valley
just mentioned, were probably near the sources of the West Gallatin.
This region appears almost inaccessible.  Continuing the circuit of the
mountain, we returned to camp by way of its north side. Here we encountered another cation as wild and precipitous as the other, and affording still more beautiful scenery. A clear cut, hundreds of feet in depth,
through the mountain's base, allowed the passage of a small stream,
which about midway rolled down a slightly inclined and rocky slope,
then spread out into a pretty cascade of a hundred feet in height. More
desperate climbing followed, and we reached an elevated plateau whose
side to the east had, at some time, dropped off; leaving a sheer precipice
of seven or eight hundred feet in height upon which we were now standing. Passing further northward we encountered, previous to reaching
camp, several spouting hot-springs, throwing up boiling water to the
height of several inches.
On reaching camp I learned that one of the cistern barometers had
broken while hanging upon a tree, without apparent cause. Toward
evening I enjoyed a bath among the natural basins of Soda Mountain.
The temperature was delightful, and could be regulated at pleasure by
simply stepping from one basin to another.  They were even quite luxurious, being lined with a spongy  gypsum, soft and pleasant to the.
touch.  I walked over a part of the hill by the faint light of the new
moon, which gave to its deep-blue. pools of steaming water a wild and
10 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
ghostly appearance. The photographer has taken numerous views of
these springs and the country in their vicinity, which will serve to convey a much more definite idea of their beautiful formation than can be
given by any written description. A special survey was made of this
locality, and careful observations taken of its latitude and longitude.
While at this camp one of the men killed a large brown bear and
three cubs.  The latter were brought in and served our mess with delicious steak for several meals.
July 24.-Resumed the march, following up the southern branch of
Gardner's River. The trail for the first four miles proved very rough, the
sides of the valley coming down close to the stream, and very steep. At
the end of this gorge a fine water-fall was discovered about 75 feet in
height, beyond which the valley became less rocky. I ascended the
ridge on the left, hoping to reach the summit of the divide overlooking
the Yellowstone Valley several miles to the eastward. After reaching several summits I still discovered higher ones beyond, but finally ascended
the last one, and was rewarded by a grand view of an immense extent
of mountain scenery. In all directions were seen sharp basaltic peaks,
beautifully set off with large fields of snow lying in their upper gorges;
quiet, secluded valleys, well timbered hill-sides, pretty lakes and mountain streams. Over the whole the sun was shining with great brilliancy,
but never oppressively in these elevated regions.
I fell in with Dr. Hayden, whom I found examining this ridge, and
together we continued in a southeasterly direction parallel with the valley below, through which our trains were moving. We had proposed
ascending this valley as far as practicable, then to strike across the
country and meet the Yellowstone opposite the mouth of the East Fork.
While we were pursuing. our investigations, one of the doctor's assistants came up and reported that his train, with the general escort, had
gone into camp some two miles south of the point where he found
us, but that my train had not come up.  I went to the doctor's camp
and learned than none of my party had arrived except Captain Heap
and Mr. Hine, who had followed the trail of the doctor's party.  A
messenger sent by Captain Tyler came back, finding no traces where my
party had left the trail. I then decided to go myself in search of them.
After considerable examination it was discovered that they had obeyed
their instructions, deviated from the direction taken by the doctor's
party and followed the course of Black-tail Deer Creek to the eastward,
and had struck across toward the valley of the Yellowstone. It would
appear to be an easy matter to find where a train as large as mine had
departed from the main trail, but in this case no tracks were left in the
prairie grass to indicate the point, and it was only after an hour's search
that the spot was discovered. Following the trail was in many places
difficult, the country being intersected at various intervals by ravines
and water-courses, with here and there a meadow, over which the animals had apparently become so scattered that all traces of their footsteps were lost. The country, until we near the river, consists of rolling
prairie, dotted with groves of spruce and pine, and well watered with
numerous cool streams finding their way northward into Black-tail Deer
Creek.  The ridges are unusually stony, limestone rock cropping out at
their summits. Continuing eastward and passing into a small canon,
rendered gloomy by approaching night-fall, and following over a divide
for a few miles, we emerged upon a height overlooking the valley of the
Yellowstone.  A plain though rough trail led down the mountain-side.
The descent was steep and long, through groves of poplars and other
small trees, along a nearly vertical hill-side, apparently over frightful
11 
12     RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTrONE RIVER.
chasmns, rendered wierd and gloomy by approaching darkness.  We be gan to despair, almost, of ever finding thercainp, and felt there might
be a possibility that we were following a fresh Indian trail. We were
soon set at rest, however as a short time after dark we reached the foot
of the mountain and found camnp located in a pretty meadow, with
a clear stream running through it. The river was about a mile and a
half distant. I had ridden thirty miles though the train had marched
but seventeen.
The next day was spent in a trip across the Yellowstone, by way of a
pack-train bridge recently constructed for the accommodation of parties
visiting some new mines about forty miles to the east of this point, oni
the head-waters of Clark's Fork. The banks of the river here are one
hundred feet apart, while a pier resting upon a ledge of rock jutting out
from the west side divides the bridge into two spans, the main one being
about sixty feet, and composed of heavy pine timbers of that length.
A path on either side has been graded down to the bridge: that on the
opposite side having been cut from the face of the cliff, the rock of
which is composed of soft, shelly, and partially disintegrated slate. The
bridge is located just above the mouth of East Fork, a considerable
stream, and in seasons of high water is not far below the magnitude of
the main river.  It finds its sources many miles to the east and south east, among some of the loftiest peaks of the Rocky Mountain range,
and drains, with its numerous tributaries, a vast extent of country.
From its extreme source to its mouth, it is probably fifty miles in length.
An elevated, rolling country, several miles in extent, lies in the angle
of the two rivers.  It is intersected by numerous streams fed from the
melting snow in the mountains above. In this area were three or four
small lakes or ponds literally covered with ducks.  Near its center
stands a mountain of remarkable appearance, nearly square, with precipitous sides, known as the "Square Butte."  I crossed the river, and,
passing south along its bank, obtained a view of the canion of the
Yellowstone, which here is very beautiful.  Its walls are composed of
volcanic conglomerate capped with basaltic columns. Many of the pinnacles remain, towering hundreds of feet in height, having about the
proportions of an ordinary sewing-needle. In many places below are
observed steamjets rising friom near the river's edge, while indications
of sulphur deposit are very numerous.  Farther up, I was able to descend to the river's bed opposite the mouth of Tower Creek, coming in
from the west. This stream is named from numerous tower-like pinnacles reaching up many feet above its bank.  Here were some fine specimens of brimstone deposit from hot sulphur jets along the banks of the
river.  On the other side were numerous warm springs, which I did not
visit.
The trout in this part of the river are exceedingly fine and added
much to the variety of our mess. Back from the river to the east the
country rises rapidly andl soon becomes extremely rugged. High barren
peaks are seen rising one above the other, far off to the east and south.
I ascended the range to the height of 3,000 feet above the river, and
judged that many of the peaks beyond were a thousand or 1,500 feet
higher. On these mountains I picked up numerous specimens of petrifactions and some fine pieces of agates and rock crystal. On returning
to camp I learned that the other party had passed during the day and
had proceeded on as far as Tower Creek, some four miles above.
I broke camp on the morning of the 26th at half-past 7; sent the
train over the trail taken the day before by Dr. lHayden, ~nd then, in
compainy with Captain Heap, I made an examination of the river's bank 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
and the falls of Tower Creek. The views from the bank of the river on
this side were even more interesting than those obtained yesterday.
The fall is exceedingly picturesque, and, when seen from below, the
stream appears to drop from among a number of tower-like rocks, some
of them extending upward more than a hundred feet above the crest of
the falls. The fall itself is a sheer descent of 156 fbet into a shallow
basin.  The water then rushes away through a rocky and rapidly descending channel, forming numerous cascades in its course to the river below.
A thick growth of pine and hemlock covers the sides of this gorge.
Regaining the trail, which led through moderately open timber, Captain
Heap) and I pushed on as rapidly as possible, but soon losing all signs
of the advance party, Captain Reap returned to pick up the trail; I went
forward and soon regained it. I then continued over a beautifully undulating country covered with rich verdure and decked with wild flowers
of every hue, many of them unknown in the Eastern States.  Yet the
elevation here is so great (7,000 feet) that frosts occur every night during the year. The vegetation does not seem to suffer from these summer
frosts, the effect upon grass and flowers being apparently but that of
dew. The path led to still higher elevations and eventually crossed a
mountain range called the " Elephant's Back," forming a part of the rim
of the Yellowvstone Lake basin. It is this ridge which, cut through by
the Yellowstone below the great falls,  forms that stupendous caiion,
2,000 feet in depth. A road could easily be constructed through some
one of the numerous passes in this range, avoiding the severe climbing
necessary by this route. Much timber would have to be removed, however, from these passes before even pack-animals could get through.
On this expedition the most annoying and sometimes insurmountable
obstacles met with were masses of fallen timber. The trail led within a
mile of the highest peak of this range, called Mount Washburne. I
wished to obtain a view from this eminence, and with some difficulty
succeeded in leading my horse to its extreme top. The summit is composed of broken mAasses of volcanic rock, literally smoothed or leveled
off by the force of the wind, which sweeps with terrible violence over
these elevated regions. I had observed large areas of snow several
hundred feet below the summit of this ridge, but, upon the peak, I doubt
if, even in winter, the wind will permit snow to remain.
From this point mountain peaks were observed in all directions, while
the:Yellowstone Lake, though twenty miles distant, seemed to lie at my
feet.  The valley of the river can be seen following the general direction
of the mountain-chain to the east, a stern volcanic range of sharp peaks,
many of them having the form of the Egyptian pyramids, though, of
course, of much greater magnitude. One large mountain of this range
had been a landmark for two days, bearing a strange resemblance to a
human profile turned toward the zenith.  I named it " Giant's Face."
The summit of Mount Washburne is 9,000 feet above the sea, while
many of those to the east of the Yellowstone are apparently 2,000 feet
higher. I intended making a sketch of the horizon line of country, as
seen from this mountain, but so fierce a gale was blowing at the time
that I found it utterly impossible to use my drawing materials.
I descended by the opposite side into a precipitous gorge or canion a
thousand feet deep, having to drag my horse down some of the worst
places. There was no vegetations no soil, nothing but volcanic rock, in
some places solid, but much of it loose and broken, affording no footing
whatever, and compelling the horse to slide for several yards at a time.
On one occasion I discovered that i was following the trail of a bear to
his den. Soon after emerging from this cation I became ingulfed in an
1 3
0 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
immense pine forest which seemed interminable. In this forest were
many oplen glades covered with grass and flowers. In one of these?
quietly reposing, I discovered three fine elk, which, upon my approach,
disappeared into the thick underbrush before I could bring my carbine
to bear upon them.  I had descended the mountain far to the east of
the trail, and now taking the direction of the sun I succeeded in trav   ersing the forest and regaining the trail which I had no difficulty in fol   lowing.  A ride of some five miles soon brought me to camp.  While in
the forest I came upon a valley of chalk-white rock, evidently an old
system of warm springs; several small ones were still in operation, giv   ing a perceptible warmth to a small stream flowing through the valley
and filling the atmosphere with an intense odor of sulphur.
We had now reached the vicinity of the great falls of the Yellowstone,
which should be classed among the most interesting and beautiful of
the earth. Lieutenant Doane minutely and graphically describes them
in his report, and compares them most favorably with all others on this
continent. I viewed them both by moonlight after arriving at camp,
and on the following morning. I should describe the upper fall as the
embodiment of beauty, the lower one that of grandeur. At the crest
of each the river narrows to less than a hundred feet, while its depth
correspondingly increases. Above the utipper fall the river rapidly de   scends over a series of cascades, gaining great velocity, whence, upon
reaching the brink of the precipice, the whole volume is thrown outward
and divided almost at once into drops which aggregate' into conical
shapes, their apexes projecting forward, not unlike an array of gomnets.
These soon lose their individuality and gradually blend together, form   ing a dense white mass, which descends in a fall of 115 feet, spreading
out at the bottom with the grace and beauty of a lady's ball-room cos   tume. A point of rocks jutting out just in front of and slightly below
the crest of the fall, affords a convenient spot for observation, whence
the whole beauty of the scene can be taken in at a glance. Here the
canon of the Yellowstone finds its beginning in a beautifully wooded gorge
between two and three hundred feet in depth, through which the river
flows swiftly, though smoothly, over its rocky bottom to the crest of
the lower fall half a mile below; the river then emerges fromn between its
rocky banks and makes its prodigious leap of 350 feet into the depth
of the great canon. It is no small undertaking to descend the steep
%    and slippery side of the cafion, even to the crest of the fall, while the
yellow, volcanic and nearly vertical walls of the gorge beneath bid de   fiance to the most expert climber. The depths below are filled with hot
springs; the rock is soft and crumbling, affording no secure footing,
while the river rushes away in a perfect torrent over innumerable cas   cades and ripples5 causing eddies and whirlpools which would dash to
atoms any unlucky adventurer who should be so unfortunate as to find
himself ingulfed in its waters.
About 400 yards below the lower fall a fine view is obtained fromin a
high projecting promontory. Comning in from the west between the
upper and lower falls a small stream flows over several ledges of rocks,
giving rise to a number of beautiful cascades, from which the creek de   rives its name. These are extremely beautiful, though insignificant in
comparison with the greater wonders so near at hand. One of these
little falls drops into a cavern nearly concealed by overhanging cliffs,
thence descending from a low ridge of rocks into a pool of great depth.
A portion of the water passes through a crevice, or small tunnel, and
darts out through the main fall of the cascade below, giving it a most
singular appearance.
14 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
After regaining the trail I hurried on up the river to overtake the
traiin on its way to the Mud Volcano, some ten miles above. I soon calme
to the wreck of a pack-mule, which had made a false step in getting
over a fallentree, and had rolled, end over end, down the hill. His pack,
consisting of the photographer's apparatus, escaped without serious injury.  The scenery along the river above the falls is quite tanie, compared with the wildness and grandness of the regions I had just left.
The river, a broad, smooth stream, flows over a sandy bed, with gently
sloping banks, generally well wooded.  No noisy cataracts break the
S-tbbath-stillness of this region.  No volcanic agencies seem to have
been at work here.  One would expect to find farm-houses and hamlets
in so quiet and peacefull a valley.
Many small streams, coming in from the distant mountains, and a
rollingprairieofseveral miles extent, was crossed during this day's mnarch.
I discovered a hillock composed of pebbles of obsidian, somewhat resenmbling coal-cinders.  Toward the western verge of this prairie a hill of
white rock was discovered which, upon investigation, proved to be
another of the " soda mountains," as they are called by the hunters. Approaching nearer, I found jets of smoke and steam issuing from the face
of the hill, while its other side was hollowed out into a sort of amphitheater, whose sides were steaminig with sulphur fumes, the ground hot
and parched with internal fires. Acre after acre of this hot volcanic
surface lay before iue, having numerous cracks and small apertures at
intervals of a few feet, from whence were expelled, sometimes in steady,
continuous streams, sometimes in puffs like those frqm an engine, jets
of vapor more or less impregnated with mineral substances.  I ascended
the hill, leaving my horse below, fearful that he might break through
the thin rockl-crust, Which in many places gave way beneath the tread,
revealing caverns of pure, crystalized sulphur, from which hot fumes
were sure to issue.  These crystals were very fine, but too frail to transport without the greatest care. A large boiling spring, emitting strong
fumes of sulphur and sulphureted hydrogen, not at all agreeable, was
also found here.  The water from this spring, over-runninig its basin,
trickled down the hill-side, leaving a highly-colored( trace in the chalky
rock.  Upon the opposite side was found a number of larger springs.
One, from its size and the power it displayed in throwing water to the
height of several feet above the surface, was worthy of notice. Near
this was a spring having regular pulsations, like a steamn-engine; giving
off large quantities of steam, which would issue forth with the roar of
a hurricane. This was, in reality, a steam volcano; deep vibrations in
the subterraneous caverns extending far away beneath the hill could be
distinctly heard.  In searching through the thick mnass of limber west
of this region for other curiosities, Captain Heap and I became almost
locked up in a labyrinth of fallen timber, so dense, and so inextricably
interlaced, that it was with the greatest difficulty we finally found our
way out again.  The country, from this point to the Mud Volcano, was
mostly rolling prairie, intersected with several streams flowing into the
river, some of them having wide estuaries and adjacent swampy flats
covered with thick marsh-grass in abundance.' Ducks are usually found
in these sluggish streams, as well as in the little lakes so numerous
throughout this whole region. We camped olu the bank of the river,
in the immediate vicinity of the mud geysers. These being the first
specimens of the true geyser yet seen,'we examined them with much
curiosity.
July 28. —Remained at this camp throughout the day examining the
springs, and crossing the river on a raft for the purpose'f ascertaining
15 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
if the same phenomena existed on the opposite side, several steanm-jets
being visible among the hills beyond.
The cential point of interest here is the Mud Volcano, which has
broken out from the side of a Well timbered hill. It has' a crater 25 feet
across at the top, gradually sloping inward to the bottom, where it becomes about half this diameter. Its depth is about 30 feet; the deposit
is gray mud, nearly a pure alumina, and has been thrown up by the action of the volcano at no very distant period. The rim of the crater on
the down-hill side is some 10, feet in height, and trees 50 feet high and
100 feet distant are loaded with mud thrown from this volcano.  The
surface of the bottom is in a constant state of ebullition, puffing and
throwing up masses of boiling muds and sending forth dense columns of
steam several hundred feet above the surrounding forests. This column
of steam can be seen for many miles in all directions.  Some 400 yards
from this crater are three large hot springs of muddy water, one of
which proved to be a geyser having periods of active eruption about
every six hours.  The p)henomena attending these eruptions are as follows: Soon after the violent period passes, the water in the pool gradually subsides through the orifice in the center, the surface falling several
feet. The water almost entirely disappears from sight, when it gradually rises again until the former level is reached, during which occasional ebullitions of greater or lesser magnitudle occur; great agitation
now ensues; pulsations at regular intervals of a few seconds take place,
at each of which the water in the crater is elevated higher and higher
until finally, after ten minutes, a column is forced up to the height. of
30 or 40 feet. During this period waves dash against the sides of the
surrounding basin; vast clouds of steam escape; a noise like the rumbling of an earthquake takes place; suddenly, after about fifteen minutes of this commotion, the waves recede, quiet is restored, and the
waters sink gradually to their lowest limits. They soon rise againi and
repeat the same operation. The water from this geyser does not flow
away, as the spring occupies the center of a basin 60 yards in diameter
and 12 feet in depth; a channel from this basin, however, serves to conduct off any excess of surface-water that may flow in from the hill-side
above.
The supply of water is diminished by a constant loss of vapor, and,
if not re-supplied, the spring in time dies out.  Evidences of extinct
springs are quite numerous in this vicinity. Close by are a great many
very small boiling-mud pits, a plastic material resembling mortar in
color and consistency, worked smooth by constant mixings which it has
received for an indefinite period.  To the north of the geyser are
numerous sulphur jets, small rills from which were depositing a sulphurous slime along their channels., The warmth and mineral properties of this material give rise to a rank vegetation.
At the head of a small ravine still further to the northward is a cavern
extending fifteen feet into the side of a hill, and about six feet across
at the opening. It is lined with variegated colors deposited from the
vapor constantly issuing from its extreme depths, while the channel of
the small stream leading down the ravine is also colored by a similar
deposit from the escaping waters. The amount of steam forced out
from this cavern was immense, causing great agitation of the water
within, and giving rise to a roaring and splashing sound as of heavy
waves breaking upon a rocky shore.
There are many ponds, varying in size from an ordinary sitting-room
to a half acre in extent, all warm or hot, some of them boiling and giving off dense nidsses of steam, usually in regular pulsations. I enjoyed
16. 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
a steam bath at the mouth of the cavern-spring.  The water was much
too hot for bathing, and the stones upon which I stood would have burnt
mv feet but for the precaution of keeping on my shoes.
A slight pungent odor, not strong enough to be offensive, pervades
this entire region.  I found little of interest to repay me for the labor
of crossing the river.  The raft was swept rapidly down the current,
and soon got beyond the depth of our poles, and only by dint of severe
paddling were we able to cross and return.  Captaiiin Ileap and myself
were the only persons who ventured upon the raft, and upon our return
no one followed our example.  Four or five small mud(-craters were
discovered giving off  steam  and  occasionally  sending  up  small
quantities of thick mud, some of which was sufticiently pure and fine
to serve for the manufacture of porcelain or china ware.
July 29.-Sounds resembling a human voice calling for help were
heard at intervals through the night; it is supposed they proceeded
from the throat of a species of panther, called the Americain lion.  I
saw the skin and claws of one of these animals at Bottler's Rtanch,
which had belonged to a formidable specimen of this genus.  I judged
that an encounter with one would not be altogether safe.  In size it
must have been somewhat under that of the lions usually seen in
menageries, though from the appearance of its head and claws it must
have nearly equaled them in strength and fierceness.
After witnessing the morning eruption of the mud-geyser, which
occurred at 6 o'clock and lasted nine minutes, attended with the usual
phenomena, we continued our march to the Yellowstone Lake, about
eight miles distant.  The trail proved generally easy, skirting the
river, which now becomes much broader, with gently sloping banks
and broad grassy meadows.  It seemed almost incredible that so tame
and quiet a scene could be found in the midst of a region usually so
wild and terrible.  Just before reaching the lake we crossed a broad
prairie extending several miles to the northward, and a continuation
of the one met with on our march from the falls to the mud-springs.
WVe crossed this prairie after emerging from a fine grove near the
river, and found ourselves near the beach of the Yellowstone Lake.
A beautiitil picture is this clear blue sheet of water nestling among
the snow-peaks of the highest mountain-range on our continent.  The
rim of this lake-basin is composed of a mountain range varying from
nine to eleven thousand feet in height above the sea, and inclosing an
area of about one thousand four hundred square miles.  Beyond this
rim the water-slopes descend in all directions, and furnish the sources
of the principal rivers of the continent.  Four of the most important
tributaries of the Missouri, viz, the Big IHorn the Yellowstone, the
Mad(lison, and the Gallatin, carry the melting snows from these mountains northward, and then through the Mississippi Valley to the Gulf of
Mexico, more than three thousand five hundred miles.  The Snake
River, having its sources actually interlaced with those of the Yellowstone and Madison, traverses in its westward course nearly a thousand
miles before it mingles its waters with those of the Columbia on its
way to the Pacific Ocean.
Again, the Green River, rising but a few miles from the sources'of
the others, seeks the deserts of Colorado, and after innumerable windings in those deep canons, at length, after a course of one thousand five
hundred miles, reaches the Pacific through the waters of the Gulf of
California.
The dividin2o point in this central region of the continent is Union
S. Ex. 66 —: —2
l 7 
18     RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
Peak, situated south of the Yellowstone Lake, its extreme height being
nearly 14,()000 feet above the sea. 
We located olur camp at the edge of the bluff, some 20 feet ablgve the
beach below.  A cold stream fumriished lus with water, and numerous
fallen tiees affor(led us pI)lenty of wood, while the fine meadows of the
adjacent prairie supllied excellent grazing for tire aiimals.  The lake
is very iriegular ia outline, and about, twenty nmiles across.  Several
lhigh promontories projec(t from tlhe southern and western shiores far out
into thle lake, greatly (linlinislin-g its app)aren,t extent, and forming
sevxeral large bays and inlets.  With the exc(eption of the northeastern
angle, heavy masses of tiiiiber cover the lake shores quite (lown to tlhe
water s e(l,ge, ren(ldering its circuit attended with great difficulty.  On
the eastern and southern sides the mountain ranges are continuous,
while to the soutlhwest and west breaks app)ear, tlhroughl which issue
niy4iiv ot the sources of tlhe Siake River.  Ii the latter direction, some
tell niiles from tihe lake, stands a very conspicuous peak, its outlines
sharp niid conical, and at this distance appeariug almost covered with
snow.  This proved to be, upon subsequent investigation, 10,500 feet
in height.
The water of the lake is cool and tolerably pure at this point, but,
beiig somewhat impregnated with vegetable matter, we l)reterred the
mountaim  stream for elrinkilng anld cooking.  Thle fish foulid in the lake
above the falls are very numerous; all of the samine tvariety, namely, a fine
large species of trout; but as many of them have long white worms in
tiieir flsh, we discoltillnued catching them.  The fish did not seem to
suffer from the effect of the wormrs, whose existence was probably due
to the influence of warm or chemical springs fouiid in many parts of
the lake.
July 30.-The party rernmained in.camp at the lake.  I attemipte(d to cross
with a small force to the opposite side of the river for the purpose of exallinting the eastern shore of the lake, and had a small raft constructed
of pinie logs sufficiently buoyant to sustain four men and as mnaly horseequipments.  Tlhe horses were expected to swiin.  The river here at the
outlet of the lake was deep, 400 yards wide, and  the current swift.
After several iieffectual attempts to get the atiimals across, the exploratioii was made on toot, the raft aiswering its purpose very well.  We
went as far south as Pelican Creek, about one mile from the mouth of
the river.  A long sandbar here reaches out into the lake, the resort
of numerous water-fowls.  A  large portion of the side of the inountaim  to the east is coin posed of white rock, evidently another vast warmspring formation.  One of our horses was taken sick to-day, with indica+llioiis of poisonling.  The attack, however, (lid not prove to be fatal.
The nights are beautiful iii this valley.  This evenling's full moon,
as it rose above the mountains beyond the lake, was reflected across to
my ca np in a broad belt of golden light as brilliant as the moon itself.
Ti.e thermometer descends from six to ten degrees below the freezing
point, and yet the morninig's sun melts the frost-work on the most delicate flowers without causing their bloom to fade or their leaves to
w it lier.
July 31.-I started to-day at 8 a. in. for the valley of the Madison, to
examine the bas;n of the great ge. ysers.  From the representations of
one of my packers I had determined to retrace my steps on thle trail,
back toward the Mud Springs about five miles, and tien crossing the
open prairie ten niles to the west, and after examlinlig a system  of
boiling sprinlgs oll its western verge, to strike directly over the dividing
ridge, and through the unknown forest lying beyond.  By this route I 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
would have oi)en coluntry more than half the way, while by taking a
more direct course the route would be through deiise forests the entire
distaitce.  Dr. Hiayden, with two or three ot his party, proposed to
accolnpany mne, but, just before startilg, chlanged( his Inidld, andl, piloted
by two hunters whomn we had Inet the previous  (lay, and who were
journeying towards the head-waters of the Madisoll upon a trarpping
expe(dition, started an hour betore I was read(y, by whlt they sul)posed
to be a shorter route, enterinlg the woods at once.  On leaving the trail
along the river's )bank, I crossed a low rid-gt and entered uLpon a broad,
smooth valley, leading nearly (iue west. This valley was occasionally
intersectedl by raviles, in which were usually found cold mountainstreallis of pure water.  It was covered with grass and wild flowers in
great I)rofusion.  Twentyv-sevTen varieties of  the latter have been atready coulted.  Teii miles west of the river we came upon a very hot
streani, forlmed from the overflow of a large systeln of springs in some
resl)ects more ilnteresting thani any we ha(dl yet encountered.  One, with
a curious crater, was constantly throwing  up boiling water to the
height of several feet.  The crater is of calcareous rock, 6 feet in diameter  and bears a strong resemblance to a human ear.  A  beautiful
branch joils this stream from the northwest, cool, and highly itll)regnated with alum.  The water fromn these splings is remarkal)ly clear and(l
colorless, excel)t that from a single onle which had the brighit color of
gamboge.  On both sides of the hot stream the ground is a soft, hot
marsh, very dangerous to examine, and it is only in the immnediate
vicinity of the largest springs, where a rocky deposit has beenl formned,
that one is entirely safe.  A  steanm-jet flowing beneath the surface of
tlhe water into the streanm, at olie point presented a very interesting
appearance and gave off a very novel sound, something like that made
by the spindle of a s)piiining-imaclhine.
Beyond these spritns our course lay through a small but wild and
pretty caiion, having five gates fifty feet in heighlt, at intervals of about
one lhundred feet.  Continuing two miles further up this willditg ravine
we reached a forest, where we encountered some difficulty from und(lergrowth and masses of tallen timber. For the first three miles, however,
the wool was comparatively open  and our progress easy.  Then we
came upon ant immense area covered with sulphur-vents, each hill-si(lde
containing thousands of these little crystal chainbers,which, upon being
brokeii into, sent forth quantities of suliphurons steam.  In passing
through the orifice from below, this vapor ha(l been sublimatel into
beautiful crystals of pure sulphur, varying in dimensious from the size
of a nee(lle to the thickness of the finger, while some were even larger.
The country presented thle appearance of a vast lime-kiln in active coinmbustion.  The crust of soft white rock was exceediugly thin, requiring
great caution in picking a route for the animals. WTe were soon on the
crest of the divide between the waters of the Yellowstone and. the
3Iadison, and it became necessary to push on iii order to reach water
and grass before night-fall.  The thick un(lerbrush ai(d fallen timber now
became almost impassable, while the rough surfcee of the mountain, cut
into sharp gorges, with rugged, precipitous sides, rendered  anything
like a straight course out of the question.  The  paick-aniinals suffered
terribly; their packs were constantly. disarraiiged an(l frequently torn
open trom severe contact with trees, and it often became  necessiry to
cut our way through somhe of the worst piaces.  Toiling oil iin this lilanier fbr five miles, but still inaking so'ie progress towa,rd the Madison
Valley, we were overtakeii by Dr. Hayden.  Iii coiiipany we descended
the mountain and eventua,lly reached a branch of the Malison, where
19 
20      RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
we camped for the night.  This stream, we afterward ascertained, joins
the Firehole River-the main eastern fork of the Aladisoin-some eight
miles further down.  It is lhere fifteen feet wide and four feet in depth.
The divide crossed to-day was not high-only about a thousand feet
above the valley on either side.  The distance was twenty-five miles.
August 1.-We discovered a brimstone valley about two miles up the
stream, in which were a great many hot springs flowing into and raising
the temperature of the creek.  There are many of these brimstone
basins, their general characteristics being about the samne.  I took the
temperatures of many of the springs in this one, which were recorded as
follows: Small white sulphur spring, temperature 1280; another, 5 feet
across, with black deposit, 172; a small bubbling spring, 1790; the
hottest found in this basin, 1990.  One beautiful spring, with light
yellow deposit, 1820.  These were the principal springs found in this
basin.  In addition to the springs, and covering the side of the valley,
were numerous  steam-jets issuing from little apertures, which were
always found to contain beautiful specimens of crystalized sulphur.
I moved camp in the afternoon at half-past 4 o'clock, following the
course of the stream in a southwesterly direction, passing numerous
hot springs from 1400 to 190~ of tenmperature, impregnated with various
mineral salts, principally iron, alum; and sulphur.
A lmile fromt camp we passed two very large springs, 20 and 40 feet
across respectively.  Another mile brought-us to a warnm creek, which
I followed up, thinking there might be geysers towards its source, but
found only another of the numerous brimstone basins.  We soon struck
a good trail, which led down the stream, crossing and recrossing as the
necessity of the country demanded, and finally passed through a deep
cafion with steep rocky walls on either side.  After traveling about
eight miles we came to the junction of the valley with that of another
stream coming in from the south, which subsequent investigation
proved to be the Firehole, or, more properly, the river of the geysers.
Near the junction of the two valleys was a sharp  conical  butte,
evidently of spring formation, as were also the extreme heights of the
ridges between which we had been traveling.
Just beyond this butte the nearly level valley of the Firehole River
appears some two miles across and three, miles in length.  At the
southern extremity of this plain a high terraced hill was seen throwing
up vast clouds of steam with occasional jets of water, while in many
other directions, among the trees and on the sides of the valley, numer ous steam columns were visible. The plain was covered with a whitish
spongy soil, checked into squares in drying, showing evidences of having
been recently overflowed.  As it appeared boggy we passed around it
to the eastward. and ascended the large white hill composed of cal careous deposit, our horses occasionally breaking through its thin
covering.
In returning to the point from which we entered this valley we
rode directly across the plain, and found that it was marshy only in ap pearance.  Half a mile back from the valley I found the train just un packing in a beautiful park of firs with a broad meadow just in front.
No artificial arrangement of- trees could have been more perfect. I
learned that one of the escort, (Private Canter,) had not come in with
the rest and was probably lost.  As I had given instructions to the
* whole party that, in case any one lost his way, lie should return to the
previous camp and there wait to be sent for, I did not feel very anxious
regarding him.  I gave. the sergeant directions to return at daylight to
the previous camp, where the man would undoubtedly be f(l)n~d. 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
Aitgust 2. —Canter did not come in during the night; Sergeant Blade
and Private McConnel went in search of him at daylight, and found
him at the old camp.
Thie group of hot springs or geysers forming- the terraced hills of the
south is very interesting, consisting of a large number of springs, ranging in size from a mere point to a hundred feet in diameter.  Some are
geysers having regular periods of activity, throwing up columns of
water to the heigt, ill some cases, of 30 or 40 feet.  Many of the small
ones seemed constantly active, but eject water only a few feet above the
surface.  One small geyser has periods of action every fifteen minutes,
throwing a column of water 30 feet high.  Another, with an irregular
but beautifully formed crater, gave off occasional bursts of steam and
water, shooting the latter to the height of 20 feet. The whole system,
however, furnish at this date but a small quantity of water, forminig a
stream oinly 2 feet wide and 3 inches deep. A beautiful feature near
this hill is a mud-spring, 150 feet across, containing about a thousand
little jets of steam, each shooting up minute particles of fine, soft clay,
worked ready for the molder.  This clay was pure white, and capable
of producing the finest porcelain.  The cl-ay of several other springs
near by was beautifully tinted in pink and orange colors.  The water
froim the geysers is nearly pure, though holding in solution silicates of
lime and magnesia, which are slowly deposited at theiraters in beautiful
bead-like drops of infinite shape and variety.  The craters are all low,
showing their recent origin, being elevated but from 2 to 6 feet above
their orifices, thoigh the hill, which has been formed by the united
efforts of all, rises 100 feet above the plain below.  There are about a
hundred thermal springs in this- system, the largest being at the extreme
height of the elevation.  It is of a brighlt-blue color, 30 feet in depth,
with rocky caverns beneath, the temperature being nearly utip to the
boiling-point. This is a geyser, having periods of action every twelve
hours.  Previous to an eruption the surface of the spring gradually rises
about six inches, and expands over an adjacent pool, the whole covering
about half an acre.  Steam-bubbles issue from the caverns beneath, the
temperature rises, larger jets of steam escape, accompaiiied with the
bubbling up of the water. After an hour's preparation of this character
a sudden rush of an immense and powerful mass of steam occurs, which
carries with it a column of water to the height of 30 to 60 feet, spouting
out in all directions, and descending ill a shower upon the surrounding
rock to the dist'ance of 30 or 40 feet from the crater.  The eruption lasts
three-quarters of an hour, and a large quantity of water is dischlarged.
Between the present camp and the Firehole Va,lley is a group of beautiftl springs, which in a country where these curiosities are not so common would receive much attention. One 4 by 5 feet in diameter, and
50 feet deep, is surrounded with a hard rocky rim.  The water was a
clear blue, whose temperature was 1900.  Close by was a large spring,
10 by 20 feet across, having a soft slimy deposit ilnpreg(rated with salts
of iron, its temperature  1260; another, having a, similar de)posit, but
formed in large sheets resembling raw hides in a vat.  Across the plain
to the west were found several mud-springcs in a ravine near a small
pond.  Here tracks of deer, elk, and buffalo in great abundance were
seen. Farther to the north was found another system of hot springs,
shooting up plastic mud of a light gray color, lhaving the consistency of
thick cream.  Oiie of these springs was 100 feet across and contained
ten craters, which threw up mud 8 feet high.  The Firehole River at this
point is a broad shallow stream from 100 to 200 feet in wi(dth, and about
2 feet deep. The bottom is hard lava, through which boiling springs
21 
22      RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
bubble -ip in malny places.  The banks are often swampy, though in
many placQes covere(l with calcareous rock deposited from warnl springs.
The creek upon which I e(,caml)ed makes a bend to the north and enters
the river a luile below.  I descended the river six  niles to ascertain at
what point another bralch, sul)pp)osed to colne in fromt the west, joi it.
I founid no streiams euterilig this river from  either side in that (dista,ie.
The valley gradually conltralts, and, after four miles, becomes a catlon
difficult of passage.  I was now satisfied tlhat I liad entered the Firehole Valley below or to the niorth of the gleat geyseis, i,iid decided to
move to the southtl in searchl of thei.  Leaving directions for camp to
move across the p)lain about two and a half miles and locate near the
gey-ser-hill before mentioned, I ascended the river a distance of a nmile
turtlher, and came upon  anothler group of interesting sprinigs, in soime
respects niore beautiful than any yet discovered.  A hill, slo)ing 50 feet
up froin tlhe river's bank, down wlhich five streaims of boilitng water in
porcelaiii channels of variegated colors, varyilng fromn bright saffron to a
deep vermilion, rip)led over ca,si Cles wornt iii the terrace formation of
the rock.  Upo,t the crest of thlis hill, firon which the riock slope(d iii all
directions, was found a spring or sinall lake just evenii with the crest,
200 yards in diameter and nearly tiin exact circle.  The middle waters
were deep ultramarine blue, while its coiicentii(, rings varied through
nearly all the colass of the rainbow, being green, yellow, oralige, and
red.  The edges for some distance down the slope were a bright vermilion.
MIasses of vapor were constantly rising fromn the surface of this lake.
Between this large spring and the river a huge chasim in the rock was
found 100 feet long and 30 feet broad, revealiing another spring of most
astonishing beauty.  The rock had evidently tfa,llen in and disap)peared
in a cavity of great depth, as the sides of the chasm, some 15 feet high,
were rough and ragged(l, showing quite a recent fracture.  The depth of
this spring was immenise toward the center.  The waters were as clear
as cry-stal, and the color of turqiiois.  The caverns seemed lined with
silver, and these extended in several directions beneath the hill.  From.
the surface of the water a vast cloud of steam was constantly rising,
producing an effec,t upoii the mind of something terrible and unreal,
and at the same timne very fascinating.  Another large spring, of a clear
green color, and several smnaller ones, were found in this group.
Auigust 3.-About teni miles west of our camp, beyond the river and
across several opeli pathesle3 of meadow containing numerous hot spliings,
where the water in] manay places spreads over low suniken ground, causing
deep and dangerous warm miarshes, stands a singular pair of buttes,
almost identical in size and general appearance.  A narrow ridge rising
half way to their tops connects these mountains together.  They are
called the "  Twiii Buttes."  Iii company with I)r. Hlayden I ascendecd to
the top of the first one, frinom whichl   a fine view of the snrrounding valley was obtainedl.  These mountains are volcanic in their origin.  An
orifice at the base of a huge rock near the crest of the one I ascended
still ejects a current of hot valpor, with a loud, hissing sound.  The top
of this butte was tfoul  to be 600 feet above the plain.  I was disappointed in inot obtaining a more extended view to the west, the trees in
that d(irection growing quite to the top of the butte, allowing but a
glimpse of the mouiitain range beyond.  The west branch of the Madison
is undoubtedly just over that range, a high, precipitous, and densely
wooded ridge 1,500 feet in height, and very difficult of passage.   To the
east the view was less obstructed, and I was able to take in at a glance
uearly the whole of the lower geyser basin, with its huiidreds of boiling
springs scattered through the valley, over an area of four miles in length 
RECONNAISSANCE OF TIHE YELLOWSTONE  RIVER.
by about two and a half in width.  A steep precipice was observed to
the southl, its fitce looking exa(ctly north, fromvl whose crest a tiny streami
descended in a narrow and graceful fall.  [ determined to visit this filll,
and after a great deal of roughl climbing over rocks, through deep and
thickly woode(l ravines,reached its foot.  Here were sonie of tle largest
pintes I had seen, towering upward a hundre(l feet, as thotugh amiibiti(ou
,~~~~~~
to reach tlhe crest fair above.  The fall proved upon measurement to bo
a clean descent of 250 feet, and dropped into a shallow and pretty'I)asin
at the foot by the cliff.  I named this fall the'1 Fairy."  (Jn clitnl)ing to
the crest I picked ulp some beautiful speciimetns of jasl)er aiid agate, and
plucked some lovely flowers of an unknown variety on the brilik above.
I had a severe climb up a nearly vertical rock, and oil reachinlg the top
was completely exhausted.  I found a more easy p)oitit by which to descend.  A very pretty cascade was discovered a few yards above the
brink of the fall.
August I.-It rained last night, which is very unusual.  The shower,
however, was only a slight one, accomnpalnie(l with a good deal of wind. A
dense fog lay on the ground early thlis niorniig, but was sooii dispelle(d by
the rising sun.  I sent the train up the river, with directions to lproceed
six or eight miles and go into calij), thus giving me an opportunity to
explore the adjacent (country for other thermal phenomcela.  A ravine
to the southeast of the geyser.hill valley coitains several large springsr
which I had not yet examitied.  I took them in my route.
A lake of hot water, 100 by 20() feet in extent, was disecovered; also,
a fine geyser, throwing water to the height of 50 feet. Beyon(ld, was a
vast hot marsh,,which I was obliged to skirt for a long (distalnce, it being too soft to bear the weight of a horse.  Here was discovered( a very
beautiful spring, having a scollope(d curbing of rock 12 feet across, and
surrounded by numerous pockets, in which were deposited a quantity of
little pebbles as smooth as polished marble.  I procured quite a nuinber of these; also some other specilliens of deposit, enamele(l with sili ca.  In the center of this plat, about two miles in area, stands a crater
15 feet high, upon a basin of about the same height.   This is an ijter esting crater, throwing a small streamr to the height of about 6 feet.  It
is rapidly going, to decay, the supply of deposit not equaling the amount
expoliated by the action of the elements.  It is soft and crumblillg, and
steam issues fromin its sides in many places. Around this plaii the trees
have been killed. by the action of hot water, often overflowing the
basin.  Their trunks, for several feet from the ground, are denlided of
bark, and are crusted with a white deposit of silicious rock.  ConitiLiu ing on to the southwest, through thickly timbered and broken coulntry,
Captain Heap and I reached the river at the site of the beautiful group
of springs seen two days before.  From this poilit onward(, the mount ains, from 800 to 1,200 feet in height, close in near the river, larrowing
the valley to about a quarter of a mile, many beautitful  and curious
springs and small geysers were found at frequent intervals all along the
banks of the river.   Any one of these would be a study in itself, was
there none other to demand attention.   A  pair of twin geysers was
particularly noticeable, one throwing out sudden gusts of steamn, the
other responding regularly withl a spout of water, 20 feet in height, at
an oblique angle.  Following the trail of the party in advance, occa sionally losing it in the marshes and fallen timber, we hurried on, cross ing and re-crossing the river in several places.  The stream here has a
fine rushing current, from 6 inches to 3 feet in depth, 50 yards wi'le, and
flowing over a smooth, rocky~ bottom.  The valleylis;well wooded  wlth
23 
24      RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
spruce, pine, and cedar, and is intersected by several cold streams as well
as inumerous warm ones.
Three miles beyond the twin geysers was found a system of hot
springs and geysers, extending across the river and covering an area of
several hundred acres.  One of the most interesting of this group is a
minute geyser emitting jets of water at interyals of every three min uLtes, in two or three convulsive puffs, to the height of 30 feet.  The
peculiarities of this crater are very marked, it having an entanglement
of roots just at its opening.  These have become  incrusted and par tially petrified with silicious deposit, causing them to resemble frosted
silver.  At the west side of this river at this point are ten large springs,
three or more geysers, and numerous smaller springs, some of which are
probably geysers.  One of the large springs was exceedingly beautiful,
being 15 by 18 feet across and gradually decreasing in diameter toward
the bottom.  The transparency of the water, though of a deep-blue
color, rendered every outline of its sides as clear as if it contained but
air.  At the center the depth must have been 40 feet or more.  Around
and near this spring were dozens of little springs sputtering and hissing
upon theirown individual account. Oneh undred yards south of this transparent pool is a remarkably fantastic crater, consisting of a huge fissure
in the rock, around which has been formed by deposits a most curiously
wrought net work of white mineral, resembling delicate tracing of frostwork. The riverflows to theeast, across which can be seen numierous steamjets, while on this side are more than twenty between the large spring
and the river.  Many of the springs have double or twin craters.  The
rock in many places is thin and friable, and, upon being broken through,
dark, smoking holes filled with boiling water or mud are revealed.  It
is not uniiusual to find springs within a few feet of each other, standing
at a great difference of level; where both are boiling this is very remarkable.  A triple geyser constantly in action deposits a substance
resembling sponge, both in color and texture.  Continuing  up the
stream we passed many single springs with lovely blue depths, also
many steam-jets.  In one large spring a pine tree had fallen, its whole
top being submerged; the branches, cones, and needles were all com)letely incrusted with a rich coating of mineral, like frosted silver.  It
was fast becoming petrified, the wood already having partially changed
into stone, being yet soft, having about thle consistency of lard.
The valley now becomes wider, and soon another basin, containing an
immense system of geysers, was entered.  From their nltumber and magnitude it seems probable that we had reached the Firehole basin, described
by Lieutenant Doanie.  Subsequent investigation proved this to be the
case. This basin is two miles in length by about one-half mile inll width.
the river traversing it in a winding course, whose general direction is
from southeast to north west. The stream is very rapl)id, having a smooth
bed of lava; is about 30 yards in width and froiom 6 inches to 3 feet in
depth.  The hills on either side are rocky and heavily wooded, rising
front seven to twelve hundred feet above the valley, and nearly inclosing
it. Thle scene, as weentered fironm below, was grand and iinmposinig. Along
both banks, and extending back iiito the forest, were numerous steamjets risilng in soft masses of cloudy vapor to the altitude of several hundred feet, while dotted over the whole extent of the basiln were seen
numerous columns of water in the form of fountains playing at various
heights.
I found the camp located on the east side of the river, near a small
pine grove, with good grass in the bottom. Soon after arrivilig a shout
was~iheard near the hill-side, a hundred yards distant, and upon rushing
i 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWVSTONE RIVER.
out in that direction a huge mass of steam was seen issuing from a
crater at the base of thie hill, accompanied by a column of water rising
to a height far exceeding that of any geyser 1 had yet seen. This grand
fountain continued to play for several minutes, when dying down, I
approached to obtain a closer view of the aperture whence had issued
such a powerful stream.  A sudden gush of steam drove.me away, following which the water was again impelled upward and upward, far
above the steam, till it seemed to have lost the controlling foree of
gravity, and that it would never cease to rise.  The roar was like the
sound of a tornado, but there was no apparent effort; a steady stream,
very graceful, and perfectly vertical, except as a slight breeze may have
waved it to and fro. Strong and smooth it continued to ascend like
the stream from a powerful steam fire-engine. We were all lost in astonishment at the sudden and marvelous spectacle.  The proportions of the
fountain were perfect.  The enthusiasm of the party was manifested in
shouts of delight. Under the excitement of the moment it was estimated
to be fromn three to five hundred feet in height. Comparing it with the
Fairy Falls, seen the day befbre, which measured 250 feet, I have no
hesitancy in stating that this geyser pIlay,ved to the height of over 200
feet.  It commenced at 5 p. in., and continued( twenty minutes.  Three
days were devoted to the examination of the sprinigs in this basin, viz,'
the 5th, 6th, and 7th of August, during which period a splecial survey of
the valley was made, and the height of some of the important geysers
measured.
The longer I remained the more firmly I became convinced that a
thorough solution of the wonders of this valley can only be obtained by
long and patient investigation during the whole season, by a corps of
observers stationed at several points in the basin, whose duty it shall
be to accurately record every phlenomnenon attendinig each sl)ring. During
my stay I was only able to study the most general features of a very
few.  There may be many geysers, some perhaps mnore powerful than
those I saw, whose period of action failed to occur while my party were
in the basin.  Indee(l, the'Giantess," described by Lieutenant Doane
as being the most wonderful geyser in the basin, was not seen to play
by any of nmy party; while the fine geyser near my cauip, named by
me the " Comet," was entirely unnoticed by the party visiting the valley
last summer.  I made careful preparations to measure the height of the
latter shlould it play again, but though I remained three days, priicipally for that purpose, the following displays occurred in the night,
the intervals of rest being about twenty-eight or thirty hours.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF TiHE GREAT GEYSER BASIN.
Entering the basin from the north and following the bank of the
stream, whose direction is about northeast, a series of rapids near together is encountered where the river makes a sharp bend to the southwest, at which point is found a small steamjet upoii the right.  A warm
stream comes in from the left, falling over a bank 10 feet in height.  A
short distance beyond( a second rapid is found, an(a then another about
100 yards farther on, where the gate of the geyser basin is entered.
Here, on either side of the river, are two lively geysers, called the " Sentinels."  The one on the left is ill constant agitation, its waters revolving horizontally with great violence and occasionally spouting upward
to the height ofr 20 feet.  Enormous masses of steam are ejected.  The
crater of this geyser is 3 feet by 10. The opposite " Sentinel" is not so
constantly active, and is smaller. The rapids here are 200 yards in
25 
26      RECONNAISSANCE OF TIlE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
lenigthl, with a fall of 30 feet, following the baink of the river, whose general course is from the southeast, thouglh with many windings. Two ihundred andl fifty  tyards fromi the gate we reach three geysers acting inll concert. WVhen in full action the display firom them is very fine. The waters
slp'ead out in the shape of a fanl, in consequence of whli(ch they  have
betni named tlhe " Fan" geysers. A jldateau opposite the latter contains
fifteen hot spriigs, of various chiaia( teristies. Some aIre of a deep-)-blue
color, from siull)hlate of copper held in solution, and have fai(,iftll caverns, d(listinctlv visible below the surface of thle water.  The ol)eniiiigs at
thle suiface are often beautifully edged with delicately wrought figures
of scolloped rock.  One variety delposits a red or brown leathery substanice, partially adhering to the sides and bottom of the caverin, and
waving to ain(l fro in the water like plank.  The size of these sprinigs
varies from 5 to 40 feet in diameter.  One hundred yards firther up the
east side of the stream is found a double geyser.  A streami from one
of its orifices plays to the height of 80 or 90 feet, emittilig large
volumes of steami.  From the formation of its crater it was narmed(
the "Well" geyser. Above is a fine swamp of cold water, opposite
whichb, and just above the plateau previously mentioned, is found some
of the most initerestinig and beautiful geysers of the whole basitn.
First we came upon two small geysers near a large spring of blue
water, while a few yards l)eyond( is seen the walls and arches of the
"Grotto."  This is an exceedingly intrticate formation, 8 feet in height
and 90 in circumfereice.   It is hollowed into fantastic arches, with
pillars and walls of almost indescribable variety.  This geyser plays
to the heiglht of 60 feet several times during twenty-four hours.  The
water as it issues from its numerous ap)ertures has a very striking
and picturesque effect.  Near the " Grotto" is a large crater, elevated 4:
feet above the surface of the hill, having a rough-shaped opening, ineasuring 2 by 1(0 feet.  Two hundred yar(s farther up are two very fine,
large geysers, between which and tihe  Gi'otto " are two boiling springs.
Proceedi lg aliii lhidred and fifty yards fartlieraiand passing two hot springs,
a reuiarkab)le group of geysers is discovere(l. Onie of these has a large
crater, 5 feet in diamieter, shalped something like the base of a horn. one
side broken down, the highest point being 15 feet above the mound on
which it stands.  This provedl to be a trenienidous geyser, and has been
called the " giant."  It throws a column of water the size of the opening to the imeasured altitude of 130 feet, and continues the display for
an hour and a half.  The amount of water discharged was immenseabout equal in quantity to that in the river-the volume of which duirijg the eruption was double(d. But one eruption of this geyser was
observed; its periodic times were not, therefore, determiiled.  Another
large crater close by has several orifices, and, with ten small jets surrounding it, formed, probably, one coiinnected system.  The hill built up
by this group covers aii acre of ground, a(nd is 30 feet in height.  Five
hundred yaids to the right, and partially concealed by an intervening
growth of pines, stands a cone of white rock 40 feet high, which sends
forth putffs of steam froom a smiall oritice at its apex.  It has probably
been a splendid geyser, but now nearly extinct.
The deposits constantly form' Dg at the mouth of the craters must
eventually close the openilig, necessitating the discharge of the water
at some other point, and the geyser then becomes either a warm spring
or a steam fountain.
Froni the cone a valley radiates westward, in which a number of interestiug springs are fould, one having a bea&ltiful curbing of rock,
built up in delicate scollops of a perfect pattern.  Another has a basin 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THIE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
15 feet deep, its sides covered with obsidian pebbles, while a third has
its cavity extending beneath the surface of the ground in the form of a
cavtern.  In the timber between the latter spriugs andl the river are
found numerous evidences of extinct geysers.  The rock is of the same
formation, and broken here and there into sharp ravines and fissures,
from whlence steamy and heated gases are constantly issuing.  Two hulndred yards above the " Giait," a(nd near the river bank, is found a fine
hot spring of deep water, 15 by 25 feet in diameter. Between the latter
and the river are six small steam jets, with bubbling water beneath.
Inmediately opposite, on the east bank, is a broad plateau containing
five large and small s)rings and two boiling springs, one of the latter
40 feet in length.  This throws a fountain from one end to the height of
60 feet, at irregular iiitervals, for the slpace of ten minutes.  Just above
the latter, on the edge of the river's bank, are three minute springs, furnishinig pretty rilis a few inches wide, rippling in tiny cascades through
tinted channels down to the river, some 5 or 6 feet below.  A hundred
and fifty yards west of this are seven hot springs, from 10 to 20 feet
across.  In the river at this point is a, small island, 100 feet in length,
withl a few pine trees at either end.  Between the foot of the mountain
and the river the east plateau widens out to 600 yards.  Near the large
bend in the river, on this plateau, sheltered by a small grove of pilne,
our camp was located.  To the east is situated a very large blue spring,
deep and clear, and in the vicinity are found numerous small holes,
some bubbling, miany discharging steam, and others quiescent.  At the
base of the mountain, farther south, is situated the "' Comet" geyser,
whilch gave us the grand display soon after reaching the basil.  The
crater of this geyser is very beautiful, though  but slightly elevated
above the general slope of the plateau; it might easily be overlooked(l,
should it not happen to play during the visit of an examining 1)arty.
There are three openings, all of which are apparently connected with
the reservoir below.  One, a very small aperture, emits puffs of steam
similar to the exhaust-pipeof a steam-engine. The large one,in the center; 6 feet across, boils violently during an explosion, but does not
throw water to a great height.
The third openinig is the geyser proper, from which a towering column
ascends to the astonishing height of 200 feet.  It is 12 by 18 inches in
diameter, somewhat narrowed as it descends, and is of great depth,
smooth and straight.  These cavities are all lined with delicate deposit
of rock, beantiflly enameled with silica, in appearance as delicate as
frost-work, but hard and strong, requiring the assistance of a hlammner
to detach fragments obtained as specimens. This deposit usually as sumnes a spherical form, the outer sutrface being incrusted with minute
beads.  Just south of this geyser are three large hot springs nearly in
the same line.  SNear the river's bank, on this part of the plateau, are
found eight hot or boiling springs, differing in temperature and appear ance.  One of these occupies the extreme point of a projecting prom ontory, and is in a state of constaut ebullition.  It deposits a saffron colored crater 6 feet in diameter, of rare iltricacy and beauty.  A small
one close by, 6 inches across, bears a strong resemblance to a shell.
Opposite the latter is a small pearly-gray spring, 4 feet in diameter.
Above the promontory the river flows to the northwest for 3()0 yards,
above which point it again changes its course. The second point is
marked  by all old water-worn cone, fast crumbling away.  Between
camp and the large blue spring to the eastward is a curious mud-spring,
the surface of which is 4 feet below the ground. It is 4 by 6 feet in
diameter.  The mud: is a, fine variety of blue clayng boiling-hot.  A
27 
28      RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
curious system of steam jets issues from the marshy ground just beyond.
Directly opposite this at-d across the river is a violent little boiler, con stantly shooting up water to the height of from 3 to 6 feet.  Between
the two angles of the river, deep, wide channels are being worn in the
surface of the rock by streams of hot water flowing from the " Comet"
geyser above.  The second angle is also a promontory, and contains
two geysers near its extreme point; also two large boiling springs,
havi-,ng saffron-colored curbs, rising several inches above the surround ing rocks.
Covering an acre and a half between the "Comet 7 and the river is a system of fifteen geysers and eight hot springs, varying from 6 inches to 6
feet in diameter; one of which is usually in action, there being scarcely
a moment wlien all are quiet.  Two or three of them are very beautiful
fountains, with perfect basins of pure white rock, almost as fine as
alabaster, while graceful jets of water shoot from their centers, 20 to 60
feet in height.  A yellow stream from one flows through a golden-colored channel, from its orifice to the river.  Exactly opposite the second
pronmonotory a small cone, 5 feet high and 6 feet in diameter, emits a
steady flow of steam.  Across the river, and 10 feet from its edge an
active geyser is seen, its crater3 feet by 6 at the surface, and lined with a
saffron-colored deposit: One hundred and fifty yards west of this spring,
situated upon the crest of a hill, 40 feet above the river, is located the
largest and most imposing crater in the basin.  Its resemblance to a
ruined castle or tower is wonderfully striking. In ascending this hill to
the castle-crater the surface of the rock is found to be much broken,
crumbling away and worn into channels by the water flowing from the
geyser during its periods of action. The base of the castle-crater, on
the east side, is 20 feet above the slope of the hill, and, on the west, it
is even with it.  It is 325 feet in circumference, and composed of partially disintegrated strata of calcareous roik.
The turret on the tower is 125 feet in circumference, and rises 20 feet
above the base.  Broken and crumbling masses of rock at the top give
a good idea of the battlement turret. The whole structure is graceful
ill its proportions and details, resembling an old castle somewhat dilapidated.  Even the appearance of port-holes is giveni by small apertures
at several points in the turret and base.  This geyser has frequent
periods of eruption, throwing off a large quantity of steam. The discharge of water is not great, being but a small stream  rising to the
height of about 60 feet.
At the base is another crater, 8 feet across, having a probable connectiol with the main vent, and serving to decrease its force.  Another
small jet is found about 10 feet distant.  Fifty yards east of the castlecrater is a beautiful deep spring of very hot water, of great depth, havimg a raised and scolloped rim a few inches in height, and 20 feet in
diameter.  This cavity contains perfectly transparent water, though of
a blue color, and appears to be a hLunlred feet in depth.  A soundingline'Was found to descend 45 feet. Several small steam vents are found
near this spring.  To the eastward, and lying between the castle and
the extreme end of the valley, the ground is swampy an(1 incloses a lalee
nearly 75 yards in length.  The plateau on the eastern side of the river
rapidly converges to a point between the river and the timbered hill-side.
liere a small st,ream comes in, fed from a large spring in the mountainside a half mile to the east. Crossing the stream, another large geyser
system is fould, an ud consists of a hill 50 feet high, deposited from the
waters of four geysers, situated close together upon its conical apex.
These craters are elevated a few feet above the general surfaceof the
6 
RECONNAISSANCE OF TIHE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
crest, a,nd are in a constant state of ebullition, sendingforth clouds of
steaini and, occasionally, jets of boiling water.  One hundred yards to
the south is a smnall hill, containing but one crater at its summit, very
irregular and intricate, and leading to an imnmense cavern beneath the
hill. The waters below are quiet. This spring has probably undergone
a change from a geyser to a simple hot spring.  In timne the dome above
will crumble and fall in, revealing one of those deep-blulie hot springs
so numerous in the geyser basins.
Between the two large hills are three small active hot springs, or
geysers, from I to 3 feet in diameter.  Fifty yards beyond bubble and
sputter five or six others-of about the same magnitude. In, this part
of the basin new springs are apparently forming; the crust is thin and(
brittle, rendering investigation somewhat difficult. Here is a large
spring of very irregular shape, about 60 feet in diameter, withl a thin
crust extending several feet over its edge.  Passing east and leaving
the river 200 yards to the right, several small bubbling springs are
foun(l, while uponI the crest of the next hillock, 150 yards distant front
the group of four geysers called( the Chimneys, is another dead geyser,
having a high dome and crater, which covers a quiet spring below.
Continuing east, over a thin treacherous crust, a fine boiling spring is
found on the left, and oni the crest of another elevation; fifty yards
farthler is an active boiler, 6 by 10 feet across, with a curbing 1 foot
hio,h and 3 feet thick built around it.  On the same hill, and forming
with this geyser the angle of a triangle, are two other deep springs,
with craters, one 5 by 12 feet, the other 20 by 30 feet.  One Of these
three is the Giantess, described by Lieutenant Doane as the most aston ishing geyser in the basin. It did not play during either of the three
days my party was in the valley, although it may have done so in the
night.  I amn almost certain it played the last night of my stay, as I was
awakened by the eruption of the " Comet," and heard during its action,
heavy concussions accompanied by vast bodies of steama rising from
some point in its direction. Although the rock about this spring shows
none of the bead-like deposit that is usually found at the geyser craters,
yet from deep and wide channels reaching off to the river it may be
inferred that heavy streams nmust at times flow down its surface. Eighty
yards east of this group is a deep spring, 6 by 8 feet at the opening,
filling a rocky cone 20 feet high and 400 feet in circumference.  This
has been a violent geyser, but seems to be so no longer. The cavity
beneath is very wide, extending in all directions.  The covering is of
rock, a thin surface, iii the form of a domne.  There are a great many
other springs in this part of the valley, a description 8f which would be
nearly a repetition of what I have said regarding others. No two,
however, are exactly alike.  One large spring has a natural bridge
across it in the center, the rock on either side having broken through.
The banks of the river here are steep and high, and have been ele vated by the deposits from sev,eral springs still flowing, the water from
which trickles down the sides in pretty rills of variegated colors. Upon
the opposite, or western, side of the river, some three hundred yards
from its bank, stands one of the most interesting craters of the entire
basin.  This magnificent geyser is the last of the system on leaving the
valley to the south, and is situated upon a high eminence overlooking
nearly its whole extent.  The hill has been built up nearly a hundred
feet above the river. The crater is a wonder of beautiful formation, ris ing by successive steps, or terraces, from its base, 480 feet in circumfer ence, to a central apex 18 feet higher, where a huge fissure in the rock,
2 feet by 7, allows the escape of steam and hot water in a jet of grand
29 
30     RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
and beautifiul proportions.  The forination of.the surface of the upper
part of the hill is a net-work of beads deposited upon curved surfaces
of intricate desigii and beautiful coloring.  The la(ce-maker might here
find designs for his most exquisite fabrics in the delicate tracing formed
rou,id the edges ()f numnerous pools of hot water, renewed every fifty
minutes by the action of the fountain.  These little pools are blt a few
inches in depth, are of various sizes, an( lined with delicate gray on
saffron-tinted  porcelain.  Around  their edges  are  wrought  shell shaped scollops, which project over the water, having usually a con trasting color with the lining of the cells beneath.  This deposit, so
delicate and frail in appearalce, is really as hard and strong as nmarble, and can be walked i1l)on without  inijury.  The opening of the
crater is also very beautiful, formed of spherical masses of beads
cemented together, and( having the color of ashes of roses.  These beau titul incrustations, from 12 inches to 4 feet in diameter,  ha'f way
surround the c(rater, presenting a very beautiful aspect.  The contiluation of the aperture may be traced for 20 yards along the crest of the
ridlge, eastward, although now almost entirely closed up. Between its
periods of action the crater remains eml)ty for some time, but emits
quantities of steam, with a rumbling and hissing sound.  Just before
the display occurs the water rises in the crater, a few convulsive gushes
of water are thrown out, when, with an exhibition of migihty power, a
colniun of water the size of the orifice majestically rises to the height of
13, feet. I obtained this measuremenit during one of its periods of action,
though perhaps not its highest. The display lasts fo)r five or six minutes,
wheni the column becomes gradually shoiter until it sinks entirely away,
leaving a flood of hot water flowitig down the hill-sid(le to the river. Near
by are two extinct geysers, their cones dilapidated and decaying under
the inifluences of the climate, being no longer renewed by the hot-water
deposits; one is entirely dead, while the other still emits some traces of
steamin from a small al)erture at its apex. These cones are 250 feet in
circunmference and 10 teet high.  Looking down the valley to the west,
from the crater of "Old Faithful," the view is superbly beautiful, andc
covers nearly the whole area of the geyser basin, with its thousand steanmjets and giaceful lountains scattered so lavishly along both sides of the
river, a,nd surrounded with high inclosing hills clothed with rich foliage.
No other locality, I think, canl ble found which combines so many attractions, both of climate and scenery.  To the southward is another
small valley, through which flows a stream one-half as large as the Firehole River, and which it joins two miles below.  In this valley are also
found numerous hot springs.  These are not so remarkable as those
already described.  Among the most noticeable is a group of eight
beautiful sprinlgs inclose(l in a single rimn of scolloped work 140 feet in
length. The interior of this basin is lined with a rose-colored deposit.
They are found upon the crest of an eminence, the si(les of which have
become incruste(d with rocky deposits in all directions, and extending
off into the adjacent forest, whose dead ai(l withered trees bear evidence
of the deadly effect of the hot water which has flowed among them.
i= Lieutenant Doane, fiom Fort Ellis, overtook my party while in this
valley, bringing orders for the return of the general escort, except the
six men  previously detailed to acconipany me, and six othe,rs, with Lienteinant Doanie in command, who were to remain with Dr. Hayden's party.
As we had seen no signs of rJndians, this escort was coxusidered quite
sufflcienit.. I had remaiiied a day longer in tills basin than I had at first
intended, hoping to again witness a display of the Comet geyser. and to
obtain a)photograph of this wonder, and also its exact height.   I was 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
disappointed, however, as the periods of action, after the first, occurred
ill thle night-time.  "Old Fai    thful" and the "Giant" were both measured
au(l photographed whilein action. By coipl)aring thlese with the "Comiet'
the height of the latter can be approximately estimated, and  was  uindoubtedly, 20()0 feet.
On the morning of the 8th I resumned the journey up the valley of the
Firehole River, iiitendiing to reach the Yellowstone L,-ke and join Dr.
Hayden, who had started the day before.  The route above the geyser
basin soon became very rough; the ba,uks of the river colverged to a
caioni whose sides were nearly precipitous, and covered with a (ldese
growth of pine springitig from  anioug  masses of rock.  As we were
leaving the valley "()ld Faithful" gave us a splendid display by way of
a partilig salute.  We followed thle eastern bank of the river. as it seemned
less densely wooded, for three miles along the edge of a steep, rocky,
and entangled cation.  We now came Ul)oI two lovely cascades flowiig
through a wild cut in the mountain.   From a projecting rock IMr. Hine
obtained a view of this beautiful gorge and cataract. The country gradually becomes elevated as we advance, and thickly timbered with pine
and spruce, intersected with mountain streams of pure cold  water.
About mid-day we passed a pretty little lake, 5()0 yards lobg and( 150 yarrds
wide, surrounded with high overhanging hills, their wooded slopes extending down to the water's edge.  We fi)und game and Inliall trails
during a part of the way, but as they usually bore too mnuch to the westward we had to select our route across the country by the coInpass alone.
At one time we ascended the back-bone of a sharp ridtlge, covered with
small obsidian pebbles.  From the crest of this ridge,ea  a,gnificeut view
of the surrounding country was obtained.  The suimmit was 9,500 teet
above the sea, and 800 feet above the valley below. Into the valley beyond we now descended, atid-soon reached the shore of a lake, probably
the Madison, some six miles in length by fouriii width.  We followed the
stony and narrow beach about two miles, as far as it afforded a practi cable footing tor the aniimals. The rocky mountain side now coinitig quite
down ilnto the lake itself, necessitated our leaving the shore andl ascending the mountain to the eastward.  After severe climbing, the hei,ght
was flially gained, and proved to be of about the same elevation as the
ridge crossed just before entering the lake valley.  After a ted(lious and
weary march, or rather scramble, through thick forests, over rocky ridges
and swampy ravines, our course usually to the eastward, we  finally
reached a more open valley, leading toward the lake.  Upon following
this for five miles we were gladd(lened by a glimpse of the lake through
an opeuing between the hills.  Night-fall now approaching, the sight of
the lake was very grateful.  Pushing on with renewed energy we soon
heard two shots, somewhat to the left of our route. We changed our
course to that direction, and, crossing a spur of hills, came out at Dr.
Haydeii's camp, near a group otf warm springs onil the Yellowstone Lake.
We had traveled twenty-five miles in the mountains, probably ten miles
farther than the direct distance. Here we fotund.some letters, brougrht
by Lieutenant Doane from Fort Ellis.
August 9. -I sent one of the packers and a member of my escort
back to Bottler's Ianch this mornilng, with three pack-mnules, for the
remainder of our provisions left there on our way up.  These menll are
to return by the eastern shore and meet me in the Upper Valley of the
Yellowstone, sout,h of the lake.  We are camped at the lake's south.
west angle, near a large system of warm spriligs, and find ai abundance
of trout in the lake, which,-like those previously taken in its waters,
contain largecwhite worms, rendering them unfit for eating.   The hot
'.' ""
31 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
springs here cover an area of forty or fifty acres, and extend 400 yards
along the lake shore. They are similar in appearance to those hereto fore described, though, in point of magnitude and number, generally in ferior to those found in the Firehole basin.  Their waters contain salts
of iron and silica. One large spring, with an opening 5 feet by 7, is
seen beneath the surface of the lake, near the shore, affording an op portunity for warm baths, which some of the party enjoyed. A small
boiling spring near the shore is remarkable ill having a bar across its
opening, dividing the aperture into four equal parts. This arrangement
served as a convenient clothes-boiler; the soiled articles being carried
under the bar on one side, would come out washed at the other.  One
hundred yards back from the lake is an exceedingly interesting and in tricate system of miud-springs, similar to those found in the Firehole
basin. There are twelve or more craters, formied from the d(eposit of
mud, varying in color from that of cream to light pink, the consistency
of which is about that of soft putty.  On exposure to the air the clay
soon becomes as hard as chalk.  It seems to be nearly pure alumina,
containing small crystals of silver.  Besides the active springs, there
are found numerous hot-mud pools.  There is great variety in the color
and temperature of the warm springs forming the same group. This is
general in all systems   The iron springs often deposit a reddislsh-brown
substance, in flat sheets, floating on the water, and are generally less
warm than the clear blue ones.  The lake shore opposite the springs is
composed of calcareous rock, brittle and easily acted upon by  the
waves, which have worn out deep eaverns into which the rock is constantly crumbling.  Few of the springs in this valley are nsow boiling,
and no geysers are seen, though, from the appearance of several cones, I
am led to believe that a number existed here at some previous time.
The morning was rainy and clouds prevented astronomical observations
at noon.  Soon after the weather became clear, and I decided to move
camp across the next pe:,insula and reach before night the rim of the
lake beyond.  Following the beach three and' a half miles and fording
two small inlets, the water of which reached the sides of the animals,
we left the lake and struck across to the southeast through the forest,
finding the timber quite open.  We encountered two parallel ridges, between which was a system of small lily-ponds very difficult to cross.
They are probably connected with a long, narrow lake still further to-'
ward the end of the peninsula.  Near these ponds I found Dr. Hayden's
trail, who left the previous camp early in the day.  The country now
became much rougher and obstructed with fallen timber.  The slope
leading to the lake on the opposite side of the peninsula was found to
be very abrupt and the descent somewhat difficult.  It was accornmplished in safety, and we found ourselves in a charming valley at the
head of a sharp arm of the lake, several miles in length, and bounded
by high, rocky bluffs on either side, the one beyond rising in a yellow
volcanic ridge, fifteen hundred feet above the valley, the upper portion
to the north being a sheer precipice.
Atgust 10.-The weather last night was intensely cold, the mercury
falling to 260. The sunI coming up bright and warm soon rendered the
temperature  agreeable.   Dr. Hayden  and  I decided to separate
here for a few days, he to take the line of the lake shore, while I purposed moving farther to the west, then following a course fifteen or
twenty miles south of the lake, to meet him in the valley of the Upper
Yellowstone.
To obtain a view of the country I was about to investigate, I determined to ascend the Yellow MIountaiin, towering iiummediately above our
l..t... 
32
.I 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
heads. Leaving Captain Heap to move the train in a southwesterly
direction up the valley, and with directions to camp on the shore of a
small lake supposed to lie about ten miles away in that direction, I, in
company with Mr. Wood, set out to ascend the Yellow Ridge.  The
attempt was made from the north, and proved laborious, owing to the
broken nature of the surface of the mountain, and the thick timber
growing upon its lower slopes. It required two hours of tedious climbing to reach the summit, which was tfound to be 1,500 feet above the
lake. A fine view, of many miles in extent, to the north and west, was
obtained. This mountain forms a portion of one of several promontories
jutting out into the lake. The great basin of the Yellowstone Lake lay
spread out before me.. Several other lakes, three or four miles in
diameter, were observed to the west and southwest.'There were four
of these in sight from this mountain.
I now formed the opinion, which subsequent investigation strength.
ened, that all these small lakes are tributary to the Snake River, which
drains the territory lying southwest of the Yellowstone Lake nearly up
to its verge.  To the southwest is a very conspicuous mountain, a
sharp, bold peak, rising fir above all others in its vicinity, its sides
whitened with numerous fields of snow, while immediately at its base
lies one of the pretty lakes just mentioned. The Yellowstone Lake, with
its many indentations and its several islands, was spread out at my feet.
The lofty volcanic range of mountains bordering its eastern shore rose
almost from its waters, while the valley of the river stretched far away
to the north, disappearing behind the "Elephant's Back," forty miles
distant.  Immediately beneath the mountain was the long narrow arm
of the lake, at whose extreme point we had camped the night before,
while just beyond lay the broad peninsula which we had so recently
crossed; its two ridges and the inclosed lake and ponds were plainly
visible. The dtscent to the southwest was difficult, over masses and
fragments of volcanic rock, sharp and in some places treacherous to
the tread, greatly demoralizing the horses, which were of course led
and sometimes driven down the worst places. Before reaching the trail
of the party we encountered, in the valley below, dense masses of fallen
timber. It was near this valley, last year, that Mr. Everts became bewildered on losing his horse, and wandered for thirty-eight days in the
great basin before being picked up, subsisting upon roots and insects.
The trail, after it was found, was not very plain, being so greatly scattered in some places that it was almost impossible to trace it. It led
over a low divide, separating a, small stream upon which we had camped,
and which flows into the Yellowstone Lake, from the valley, descending towards the south, and whose waters flow into the Snake River.
This valley eventually joins another coming in from the northwest,
through which flows a warm creek supplied from a large group of
springs along its borders. This stream is 20 feet across, 18 inches in
depth, and empties into the small lake at the base of the high snowcovered mnountain seen in the morning.  The lake is about five miles in
length and three in breadth; and from its shape is called "Heart Lake."
Here I found the remainder of my party except Mr. Hine the photographer, and one enlisted man.  These two had gone back upon the
trail of the previous day to find the tripod of the camera, which was
missed on arriving in camp.
August 11. —Mr. Hine did not come in during the night.  I fear that
he was unable to follow the trail and has therefore returned to the
lake. I directed one of the best men of the party to go back there and
show him the way to this camp. Taking Ms. Prout with me, I climbed
S. Esx. 66    3::..":..:
33 
34  -  RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
the mountain near whose base we were encamped. Just at the foot of
this mountain, near.the lake shore, are foitr or five boiling springs, one
of which is a geyser of considerable importance, throwing jets of water,
at frequent intervals, to the height of 15 feet. The mountain is well
timbered about half way to its top, the remaining portion of its
slopes being bare, broken masses of rock, in many places rising in vertical walls of several hundred feet. We succeeded in taking our horses
1,600 feet above the lake; then leaving them at the base of a nearly precipitous ascent, several hundred feet in height, climbed to the summit
without their assistance.  Soon after leaving the horses I was obliged
to abandon my carbine, the steepness of the acclivity requiring the aid
of both hands. The rock of which this part of the mountain is composed was constantly disintegrating and sliding away in avalanches to
the valley below. Immense fields of snow filled the gorges of the mountain, from which flowed icy-cold streams in torrents through the lower
ravines. In reaching the summit, which was 3,000 feet above our
camp, a wide stretch of country was visible in every direction. This
mountain occupies about the center of the great basin. On the opposite side of the crest is a line of peaks, forming with this one nearly a
circle round an immense conical valley, having the appearance of an
extinct volcano.
The most striking object seen from this point of observation was the
Teton range of mountains to the southwest, about sixty miles distant.
This range rises high above the broad extent of intermediate country,
which is drained by the numerous tributaries of the Snake and the Madison, and extends southward in an almost unbroken wall of steep and
rocky cliffs, terminating in three sharp spires, so tall and slender that
one is reminded of the mast of a ship. To the north the Yellowstone
Lake, the mountain ascended yesterday, and the valley at its foot, were
all distinctly visible. The outlets of the numerous small lakes in this
portion of the great basin seemed to flow to the southward into the
Snake River. The geology of this region is volcanic.
I gathered several specimens of rocks from this peakl to take back
with me.  The western slope of this mountain is wooded with a
scraggy growth of dwarf pines, bent nearly to, the ground by the force
of the west winds, and extending up the slope to near the crest, terminate in a line exactly parallel therewith. I passed westward along the
connecting ridge to the nearest adjacent peak, where additional observations were taken. A fierce storm was now gathering among the
peaks of the Tetons, which would probably soon cross the valley in
this direction. I therefore determined to return to camp, descending
obliquely across the face of the mountain, over immense tracts of snow,
lying in some instances 1,500 feet below the summit. These snow-fields
do not probably entirely disappear during the summer, and are replenished again early in September. This mountain I have named Mount
Sheridan.
Aner, the man sent in quest of Mr. Hiine and private Lemans, returned
without finding any traces of them.  I was now a good deal alarmed for
their safety, and determined to dispatch the whole available party early
in the morning in search of them. The night came on wet and gloomy,
an unpleasant prospect for men lost in the forest.
August 12.-After a stormy night, the morning proved wet, cold, and
dreary, with torrents of rain still falling. The day was spent in an organized search for the two lost members of our party. captain ileap,
witht two men, went back upon the trail to the old camp, with directions
to follow their tracks, if possible, until they came up with the men. With
* *"..... ~ 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
two others I took a northwesterly course across the country, hoping to
find their trail, on the supposition that they had gone to one of thelakes
in that direction.  I followed the valley of the warm creek flowing into
the lake near our camp. This stream has a rapid descent for two miles,
and is fed by hundreds of hot and boiling springs of the Same general
character as those previously described.
I saw some traces of sulphur, and also indications of geysers, though
none were playing. Through the day we had cold and sleety rains with
occasional squalls of snow or hail. Continuing round the mountain to
the lake lying at the foot of its westerly slope, I examined the beach
carefully for signs of the lost people, but found none. This lake is
about four miles in length, north and south, and two in breadth; is pearshaped, with an outlet at its southern extremity. After continuing the
search until near night, without finding any traces whatever of the lost
men, it became evident that they could not have wandered so far away
from the previous camp, and that the other party would probably find
them.  This supposition proved correct, as upon returning to the camp
I was greatly relieved to find the whole party assembled again; the lost
men having been recovered by Captain Heap's party at the other camp,
to which they had just returned, after wandering two days in the woods.
They had suffered very little, having killed a deer the second morning,
which supplied their immediate necessities.
The following four days were occupied in making a circuit from this
point around to the valley of the Upper Yellowstone. During this
journey the route lay entirely among the various tributaries of Snake
River. The ridges were invariably timbered, except the highest peaks,
which were bare and rocky. The valleys, in many places, spread out
into fine meadows, but were often contracted to narrow canions, with
steep and rocky walls, rendering their exploration difficult and often
impossible. The first day but eight miles were made and our camp
located at the confluence of two fine branches of Snake River, their
united currents flowing to the southwest.  This was a trout stream, the
fish being very excellent, though shy and difficult to catch.
A broad swampy fiat, covered with willows, extends across the angle
formed by the two streams, with very little good grazing. The next
day we followed down the stream to the southwest for about three
miles to its junction with another branchjoining it from theeast. We then
followed up the valley of the latter,which led in the direction of a prominent mountain, from whose summit I obtained an extensive view of the
country far to the eastward. To the north of this mountain lay a sharp
ravine, from which ran the branch of Snake River which we had left
that morning, and flowing nearly due west at this point.  Farther up,
to the eastward, the valley of the stream widened out into a beautiful
meadow, which point I proposed reaching that afternoon. While I was
makling these observations, however, the train passed directly across
the ridge into the valley below, where it went into camp for the night.
This was a mistake, by which I lost the trail and nearly cost me the
unpleasant experience of spending a night alone on the mountain, for,
upon descending from the summit, and after searching for the trail in
the direction I supposed the train had taken, and finding no traces of it,
I was beginning to realize that either the train or I had become lost.
Just then I observed a light smoke curling upward from the deep ravine
three miles below. This served to guide me to the camp.
While upon the summit of the mountain, which I named Mount
Hancock, I enjoyed an unparalleled view.of a vast extent of country,
bounded by the Gallatin Mountains and "'Elephant's Back" on the
:i-I.
o.**.!.
35 
36      REC6NNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
nortl, the Yellowstone range on the east, the Wind River range on
south, and the Tetons on the west. Thus the whole of the great basin
was in view from the same point. The summit of the mountain, which
is 10,400 feet above the sea, is composed of large masses of lava, as
sharp as though just broken, and showing no signs of disintegration.
From our camp, at the bottom of the ravine, we proceeded up the
narrow valley of the creek upon the following morning, finding the
trail exceedingly rough, winding over projecting mountain-spurs and
frequently disappearing in the forests. We were often obliged to follow
low the rugged bed of the stream at places where the nearly vertical walls
of the canon were inaccessible.  The bed-rock of this streami is fine
gray sandstone, and resembles the Ohio building-stone. The stream is
one of the principal branches of Snake River, has a rapid current, and
is subject to severe freshets.  At this season it was about 200 feet
broad, and generally about 12 inches deep. The banks are from 1,000
to 1,500 feet in height and densely wooded, principally with spruce and
pine. Traces of bituminous coal were found along this stream. Six
miles of rough traveling brought us to a much higher elevation, where
the ravine widened out into a fine valley; the same that I had seen from
the top of the mountain the previous day.
From the ridge upon the left I obtained a view of the Yellowstone Lake. This ridge seemed to be the divide between the waters of
the Yellowstone and those of the Snake.  A' small pond which I
observed upon the ridge, when full to overflowing, would probably furnish water to both rivers. This ridge is about 1,500 feet above the
lake and twelve miles distant to its nearest point. A column of smoke
was observed several miles to the northeast-arising from burning forests,
showing the whereabouts of Dr. Hayden's party.
The animals of my train, particularly the horses, were now becoming
a good deal worn, showing signs of breaking down, while the mules
were severely afflicted with saddle-galls.  The condition of the animals
made short daily marches necessary, though the grass was generally
good and water abundant. Continuing eastward we crossed some very
fine valleys on the 16th, and began the descent of the mountain range
separating the waters of the Snake from those of the Upper Yellowstone. This range, upon its lower slopes, is thickly timbered, though.by
following the crests of radiating ridges less timber was encountered
than in the ravine. Glimpses of the Tetons were observed to the southwest from time to time, though until the crest of the ridge was reached
but little of the surrounding country could be examined, owing to the
intervening timber. On reaching the summit, however, some 1,100 feet
above the last camp, the view in all directions was grander and more
impressive than any I had before seen.  I was completely surrounded
with wild mountains, whose sides were precipitous rocks 1,500 to 2,000
feet in height.  The valleys were canions.  The summits of the mountains spread out into rolling prairies in many places, bearing grass and
flowers.  Small lakes were seen at frequent intervals, their waters supplied from immense fields of snow, which undoubtedly remain during
the entire summer. Signs of game abounfid, among which were found
tracks of the grizzly and the black bear, mountain-sheep, elk, and deer.
Descending the valley to the east we found a small cold stream flowing northeast, which joins the Upper Yellowstone a few miles below.
Here we went into camp, and with Mr. Prout I ascended the opposite
mountain on foot. This proved to be a spur from a vast plateau reaching back to the south, between two branches of the Upper Yellowstone.
From this plateau the Teton range to the southwest was distinctly
..:.. 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
visible, also a high basaltic wall on the south and east.  To the northwest a distant view of the Yellowstone Lake was obtained, through a gap
in the mountains.  To the northeast stood a remarkable tower, crowning
the crest of a very high mountain and bearing a striking resemblance
to a castle. The valley to the north is a broad open plain, nearly level
with the Ye]lowstoine River, winding among masses of dense willows.
A small sheet of water, which is called Lake Bridjer on the old maps,
was seen in this valley. Returning to the camp across the plateau we
encountered a large grizzly. bear and  cub.  Not being armed or
mounted we made a safe detour of the monster, and returned to camp.
On the 17th we moved down the valley, over a swampy and difficult
country.  The stream rapidly descends over a rocky bed, and finally
plunges through a canion, by which it enters the valley of the main river
below.  Passing to the left of this canon, and descending a steep but
thickly wooded terrace, we entered the valley of the Upper Yellowstone.
This valley is nearly level, surrounded by conglomerate rock, so worn
by the elements as to give them the appearance of basaltic formation.
From this point to the Yellowstone Lake the distance is about eighteen
miles, the valley being two and a half to three miles in breadth. The
river here is, however, half as large as the Yellowstone below the lake,
and is formed by the junction of five streams, which unite their waters
near this point.
This part of the valley I nanied Five Forks.  Between these streams
are radiating mountain spurs rising 2,000 feet above the valley, adorned
with upright columns and projecting terraces of great architectural
beauty. Crossing the valley are several broad trails, which, it is said,
were formerly used by the Indians in passing from the head-waters of
Clark's Fork, on the Stinking River, to the valley of Snake River.  It
was my intention to have explored at least the principal branch of the
Upper Yellowstone as far as practicable, but the condition of the animals was now such that I feared they could do little more than make
the return march to Fort Ellis. Our provisions were just exhausted,
but the arrival at this point of fresh supplies, sent for from the west
side of the lake on the 9th instant, relieved my anxiety in that respect.
These stores would, however, be no more than sufficient to last us to
Fort Ellis, traveling as slowly as the poor condition of the animals rendered necessary.
From observations on the march through these mountains, and from
information derived from the packers who accompanied me, I am led to
believe that a practicable road possibly a railway can be constructed from
the Yellowstone Lake south to Snake River on the direction of the Tetons.
The connection, however, of the valley of the Upper Yellowstone with that
of the Wind River would be attended with great difficulties. An attempt to
follow the Yellowstone to its source, then to cross the lofty range of mountains separating it from the Wind River, would, I think, with pack-animals
in good condition, be attended with success; and although no pass
through this range in this vicinity has yet been discovered, it is possible
that a narrow one may exist. A glance at the map will show a natural
route for a railroad, connecting the Pacific lines, by way.of Wind River,
to the Yellowstone, were it not for the difficulties to be met at this one
point.
The 18th and 19th were passed in marching from the valley of Five
Forks down the Upper Yellowstone to its mouth at the lake. This valley becomes wider as we descend, and continues nearly level, the riverwinding from side to side among dense willows and swamps, and ren
dering it necessary in traveling to keep along the base of the mountain
Z" C"::'
37 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
The hills and the mountain-slopes above are all thickly clothedwith
timber. The small streams flowing into the river were invariably obstructed with-numerous beaver-dams, which form a continuous chain of
ponds through the smaller valleys.  About half way down the valley I
descended the ridge to the east, crowned by the castle-topped summit
above mentioned.  The walls of this rock were about 400 feet in height,
vertical, and in some places inclining outward. I spent an hour trying
to find a fissure through which I could ascend to its top, but without
success. The elevation of the mountain at the base of the tower is
2,000 feet above the valley. The height of the loftiest pinnacle of the
tower is probably 10,500 feet above the sea. The rock is composed, for
a distance of 20 feet above its base, of conglomerate, the same as the
material of the ridge below, while farther above are strata of fine hard
sandstone, the extreme top being of lava. In the east side were two
large caverns with arches supported by a pier of fine proportions. A
rain-storm now coming on, I descended the mountain (this mountain
was named Mount Humphreys) and encountered a small lake on the
way. The storm increased, rendering the passage through thick undergTowth anything but pleasant. I finally reached camp on the lake-shore
just beyond the mouth of the river, thoroughly drenched.
Autgust 20.-We experienced last night the singular sensation of an
earthquake. There were two shocks, the first one being quite severe,
accompanied by a rumbling and rushing sound. The morning broke
clear and bright. I was anxious to overtake the other party, which
had already moved northward. 1 learned from Barouch, who brought
up my supplies, that the doctor's party were now probably near the
outlet of the lake, twenty miles beyond. As this distance would be a
long day's march in the present state of the animals, I concluded to
divide it into two marches, and started at 1 o'clock with the intention
of moving about eight miles on that day. Leaving the train in Captain
Heap's charge, to be conducted along the shore of the lake, I ascended
the mountain-slope rising to the east.  Upon this slope I found numerous evidences of warm sulphur-springs, though none which were particularly noteworthy.  In overtaking the train six miles from camp, I
learned that the party were laboring under great excitement regarding
Indians, the feeling being that a considerable party were in our vicinity,
but were concealed in the forests awaiting a favorable opportunity to
attack us. Although I had little apprehension on that score, having
seen no evidence of Indians whatever, I deemed it prudent to continue
the march along the lake-shore, and make a junction with the other
party as soon as possible. This march was made hurriedly. The
country was not, however, remarkable, being thickly timbered and
rising rapidly from the lake to the mountain range beyond. Several
streams, of no great magnitude, rising in the mountain range, were
crossed during this day's march.  We found the doctor's camp within
four miles of the outlet of the lake, situated near a small rocky promontory called " Steamboat Point."  This name is derived from a large
and violent steam-vent, throwing out a vast volume of steam in heavy
and regular concussions.
August 21.-Remained in this camp during the day, allowing the
animals to rest after their hard march of the day before. A small party
returned upon the trail to recover a mule which had strayed from the
train yesterday. In this search they were successful, and returned with
the mule toward night. Besides the large steam-vent, which is the
distinguishing feature of this locality, there are many smaller ones
and several sulphur springs.  The rock is of volcanic origin, immense
... -fsw;  
38
i 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
masses of which are distributed in wild confusion along the shore.
Frequent earthquake-shocks were felt by the party while at this camp.
At such times the large steam-vent became more active, sending forth
increased masses of steam with the roar of a cataract.
On the 22d I left Dr. iHayden's party continuing their geological investigations at Steamboat Point, and moved down the east bank of the
Yellowstone as far as the falls.  The course lay along the lake beach
for about two miles, upon which I gathered several interesting specimens
of mineral. Leaving the beach, we crossed a small prairie to the northwest, and entered a dense wood. Here the fallen timber delayed our
march about ten hours.  Beyond this we crossed Pelican Creek. a small
stream coming in from the northeast. Beyond this stream I found the
country more open, with occasional groves and parks of meadow-land.
On reaching the bank of the Yellowstone a fine broad trail was found,
upon which, through shady avenues of pines, our train traveled without
difficulty. About 1 p. m. we arrived opposite the mud-springs and volcano, seen on our route up the river. The volcano was still sending forth
its vast columns of steam far above the surrounding hills. Here on this
side were several small rills of icy cold water, pouring from the side of
the mountain jn rapid streams as from a hydrant.  On reaching the
falls we went into camp on a small grassy plateau, fifty yards from the
brink of the upper fall, and immediately above the rapids. Just below
the fall I descended to the bottom of the caion, 200 feet in depth.  In
this little cafion, just between the upper and lower falls, were caught
some very fine specimens of trout.  During the night the concussion
caused by the falling water reminded me of the earthquakes felt on the
lakes a few nights previous.
August 23.-I determined to remain over here to-day for the purpose
of exploring the grand canon below the lower falls.  I expected this to
be an undertaking of great difficulty, and attended with some danger;
but entering a sharp and narrow gorge or fissure in the side of the canion,
immediately below the great fall, I found the descent much easier than
was anticipated.  It proved to be very steep; but the rock being solid,
,with projecting angles, there was little danger to a careful climber. A
slope of loose and finely broken rock, a hundred feet in height, moist from
the falling spray, terminated the descent. Sliding to the bottom of this
slope, I stood on the foot of the great fall, 350 feet below its crest,
the walls of the cation rising 700 feet.  My first impression on beholding this fall from below was one of disappointment; it did not ap.
pear as high as I expected.  The fall, however, was grand, and presented a symmetrical and unbroken sheet of white foam, set in dark
masses of rock, while rainbows were formed in the spray from almost
every point of view.  The steep rocks near the falls, constantly wet
with rising mist, were covered with vegetation of an intensely green
color. The'river below runs with the velocity of a torrent, rushing down declivities, spinning round sharp angles, and dashing
itself into spray at every turn. The walls of the canion are composed
of soft disintegrating rock, the prominent color being yellow, intermixed
with various shades of gray and red. The rocks are constantly crumbling down, leaving steep ridges and sharp pinnacles hundreds of feet in
height, standing out from the walls I found it impossible to follow the
bed of the stream, the steep and slippery side affording no footingwhatever, and crumbling at the slightest touch. A view of the cafion from
any point is very impressive, particularly so from the foot of the great
fall.  After ascending from the cation I followed its eastern crest several miles down, findingg that the depth increased rapidly, owing to the
rising ground on approaching the cut through the'"Elephant's Back,"
39 
40      RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
and also to the descent of the river, down niumerous cascades along its
channel.  The views at all times were grand and magnificent.
August 24.-We have suffered a few days past from the buffalo gnat,
a small fly, which attacks men and horses, causing severe swelling and
itching. We encountered them in the greatest numbers near the outlet
of the lake, and brought some of them with us to this camp.  They are
the first insects that have given us serious annoyance.
From our camp at the falls we struck across to the northeast toward
the valley of the East Fork, making only nine miles the first day, owing
partly to a late start, caused by the straying of several animals just be.
forepacking. Our course was along the valley of'" Sour Creek," so named
from its perceptibly acid taste. The country was at first generally open,
though soon after passing a ridge and valley covered with steam-jets
the hills become more heavily timbered.  On reaching a fine valley with
cold streams coming in from the southeast, I went into camp for the
night, and early on the morning of the 25th resumed the march toward
the East Fork, continuing in a northeasterly direction. Very little was
known of the intervening country, though it was generally understood
that a high mountain range would have to be crossed; that there were
deep and rugged ravines, with masses of heavy timber to be passed
through. The animals were nearly worn out, and I almost regretted this
detour from a straight line to Fort Ellis. We followed up for two miles
a branch of the creek on which we had encamped, through groves of
spruce, with open parks at intervals. The whole region is filled with
signs of warm-spring formation and brimstone basins, with occasional
swamps of volcanic mud.  Onleaving the open valleythe woodabounded
with game-tracks, several elk and deer being seen just in advance of our
train.  We now entered a forest of fallen timber, and ascended a high
ridge about 800 feet in elevation, thence across a swift stream flowing
over a bed of yellow lava.
Beyond the next ridge was found another pretty stream, having a
white chalky bottom. Both flow into the grand cation of the Yellowstone.  Steaming sulphurjets were discovered on the banks of White
Creek. We now began the ascent of the mountain-chain, following up
the valley of a small cold stream coming in from the east. The banks
on either side of this valley are 800 feet in height.  This ravine led
far up the ridge, where, after climbing a short steep ascent, we found
ourselves on the crest of the divide between the Yellowstone and the,
East Fork, 10,000 feet above the sea and 2.000 feet above the valleys of
these rivers. The descent of the valley of the East Fork was over a
rolling country, a good deal cut -lp by ravines and water-courses.
The distance from tlhe crest of the ridge to the valley was about six miles,
and the difference of elevation 2,300 feet. The last two miles were very
steep and rocky, and severely worriel the animals.  The horse of one
of the escort gave out before ascending the crest of the divide, and had
to be abandoned. We entered the valley at the junction of two branches
of the East Fork, one coining in from the east, the other from the
southeast. The valley at the forks of this stream is four miles wide,
and is a rolling prairie, with groves of trees and thickets of willows
along the river banks. The larger branch forks about three miles up,
and still a few miles above breaks into numerous small streams, finding
their sources in the high mountain range to-the east. Many peaks of
this range- are distinctly seen from this part of the valley. They are
very ~onspicuous, rising probably more than 12,000 feet above the sea.
I expected to have met Dr. ilayden's party in this valley, but saw his
train depart down the river just as I descended the mountain.  Numer 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
ous bands of antelope were seen skipping over the prairie while we remained in the valley.
Aitgtst 26.-I had intended sending the train down the valley and
across the Yellowstone River to-day, while I would overtake it, after
ascending one of the moulntain-spurs in this vicinity for obserwvations
upon the surrounding country. But as the morning broke dark and
rainy, the latter part of my plan was abandoned, and I accompanied the
train on its march down the valley.  We kept along the foot of the hills,
on the southern side of the river, Lvoiding swamps and  stoly places
nearer the stream.  The valley is from two to five miiles wide, the soil
generally poor, except immediately along the river's banks, where many
of its terraces are fertile, and would probably answer well for general
farming purposes.  The mountains on either side continue down to the
Yellowstone Valley, though broken by ravines, through which issue
small mnountain streams.  The largest of these joins the East Fork near
its mouth, coming in from the northeast, and is called "Slough Creek.7
We crossed the Yellowstone upon the bridge noted on my route up the
river, and halted near the old camp at Meadow Brook. Here the tents
were pitched and we remained over the following day, allowing the animals to obtain food and rest.  Two packers crossed the river and returned the next day, bringing with them the carcasses of an elk and
deer. We were now provided with fresh meat for the remainder of the
journey.
August 28.-We set out upon the return to Fort Ellis by the same trail
over which we passed more than a month ago.  Ascending the mountkin's side, familiar objects met the view at every step.  We soon reached
the little canion at the cre.st of a mountain 1,400 feet above our camp of
Meadow Brook.  Making a cut-off here, we passed over a hill literally
covered with agates, many beautiful specimens of which I gathered as
I passed along.  Thence across Black-Tail Deer Creek, down the canon
of Gardner's River, and, arriving at the "Soda Mountains" camped at
the foot of its eastern slope, in a small ravine containiiitg, a spring of
cold water.  A luxurious bath-tub has been hollowed from the slope of
the rock, having both hot and cold water conducted to it, in which I
took a delicious bath. My impressions of this mountain of springs,
formed a month ago,.were not quite realized now; still, it is very beautiful, and should be. classed among the first natural curiosities of this region. As we passed down the valley the following day, to the little
cation of the Yellowstone, the trail seemed very easy. The hill sides are
barren, the grass dried Lip, and the contrast from the luxuriant vegetation of the lake basin was very marked.  All the objects were very familiar; the Devil's Slide, its parallel walls extending out a hundred feet
beyond the mountain's side, and rising upward 800 feet or more.  Further on the trail winds along the river's bank, passes lake " Seven," and
descelnds into the cafion, where we camped on our route up. I passed
by this spot and entered the farther valley, hoping that the grass there
would be less withered, it being traversed by a mountain stream.  We
here halted for the night.  Another of the horses which had been filing for several days, was abandoned a few miles back, near the " l)evil's
Slide."  Our progress was not rapid on the return, owing to the exhausted condition of the animals, and we could make but twelve or fifteen nmiles a day. It was fortunate that the route was not extended further, fo)r in that case I should have lost several more horses. The mules
endured the march much better, and, had they not suffered fromi sore
backs, caused by too narrow saddles, would have returned in as fine
condition as when they started. The horses were too large for such ser
vice; ponies would have endured the hardships much better.
S. Ex. 66- 4
41 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
Another day's march brought us to Bottler's Ranch, and in two
more we reached Fort Ellis, where we arrived about noon on the 1st of
Septemnl)er.
Through the courtesy of Major Forsyth, quartermaster at Fort Ellis,
I visited with him the Crow Indian Agency on the Yellowstone, thirtyfive miles from Fort Ellis. The entire Crow Nation and a portion of the
lTez Perces had just come in to receive their annuities from Major Pease,
the agent of these Ind(lians. The agency consists of a large stockade
containing several store-houses-quarters for the agent and his assistants, the trader, and:inlterpreter. A school for teaching the Crows has
been established under the charge of Mr. Ainsworth.  The Crow Nation
numbers about three hundred lodges and musters eight or nine hundred
warriors. The men are generally fine-looking, tall and straight, many of
them six feet in height.  The "Iron Bull, one of the most important
chiefs, is a good-natured and genial fellow, and was not afraid of having
his p)hotograph taken. Several of the others submitted to the ordeal
also, but most of them had superstitious ideas against it.  We forded
the Yellowstone, going to and returning from the agency, at one of the
several fo)rds which are found about seven miles above it. These fords
are all difficult, the current of the river being very swift and the bottom
covered with large boulders.  At this season the depth was about three
feet at the fords. In high stages of the river a ferry is used.
Immnediately after my visit to the Crow Agency I bade good-bye to ort
Ellis, where I had been most kindly received and hospitably entertained 
by Brevet Colonel and Major E. M. Baker and the other officers of the
post.
I left Fort Ellis on the morning of the 6th, taking the stage for ilelena.  I followed the general course of the West Gallatin for twenty
miles to Gallatin City, at the junction of the three forks, viz, the Ga,1latin, Madison, and Jefferson rivers, whichl unite at this point and form
the Missouri.  Beyond, the stage-road passes over a rolling country in a
westerly direction, the Missouri appearing in view at several points along
the route.
Eighty-five miles beyond the Gallatin I reached Hielena, arriving there
in the evening.  This city, like all mining towns, grew up by accident,
and is crowded into a narrow gulch at the foot of the mountains.  A
fine open country stretches northward to the Missouri River.  I remained
over here one day and visited the gold mines at Unionville, a few miles
farther up the gulch. These mines are in active operation, and, to judge
front the amount of treasure carried over the stage-line to Corinne, they
must be yielding good returns.  Leaving Helena on the 8th, a tediotus
stage-ride of four days and nights brought me to Corinne, when I itmmediately took the cars to Chicago, where I arrived on the 15th of September.
REPORT OF CAPTAIN D. P. HIEAP.
IHEADQUARTERS DI)EPARTM3ENT OF DI)AKOTA,
Saint Pctul, Minnesota, January 23, ] 872.
CAPTAIN: Agreeably to your request of January 13 I have written a
concise account showing generally how the survey of the country
explored by us last slummer was conducted.
Owing to the fact that everything taken on this reconnaissance
had to be transported by pack-animials, we were limited in our choice of
Purveying and astronomical instruments to those which could most
easily be carried and be least likely to get out of order. Our astronom
42 
RECONNAISSANCE OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER.
ical instruments Were two sextants, an artificial horizon, and two chronometers-one mean-solar and one sidereal.
The instruments for keeping the trail were two prismatic compasses
and an odometer-cart, drawn by a horse; it was so narrow it would go
wherever a horse could, and consisted of a pair of shafts, a steel axle,
and two velocipede wheels; it was light, but strong, and answered the
purpose well. 
Observations for latitude were taken at every camp if the weather
permitted.  From Fort Ellis to camp at Meadow Brook, near east fork
of the Yellowstone, the same trail was taken both going and returning,
thus giving opportunities of correcting errors made the first time going
over it.
From camp at Meadow Brook to Yellowstone Lake the trail was on
one side of Yellowstone River going and on the other returning, this
enabled us to plot the river quite accurately.
At our first camp, on Yellowstone Lake Mount Sheridan could be seen
due (magnetic) south of us.  The difference of latitude between this camp
and a camp near the foot of Mount Sheridan gave the distance between
the two camps.  From the top of Mount Sheridan bearings were taken to
Yellow Mount, Mount Hancock, Mount Humphreys, camp of August 8
at Hot Springs, and at various prominent points in the lake.  From Yellow Mount and mount near Mount Humphreys these same points in the
lake were located and from this latter mountain Mount Hancock could
also be seen.  The latitude of camp at Steamboat Springs was carefully
determined by several observations, and bearings taken to Mount Sheridan and numerous points in the lake.  Then there were a large number of well-defined points nearly all around the lake, and the bearings
were so taken that their relative positions were mutually interdependent.' From thence the general shape of the lake was well defined, iinportant points in it well located, and many of the minor details put in
with considerable accuracy.
The trail was kept as carefully as possible, but the ground was so
broken, the road so winding, and the country generally so difficult, that
many unavoidable errors were made. The latitude obervations were particularly useful in correcting these, as the general direction of the march
was north or south, the tract of country explored being included between
the one hundred and tenth and one hundred and eleventh meridian
of longitude and extending from the forty-fourth nearly to the fortysixth parallel of latitude. The observations for latitude were generally
on Polaris off the meridian or by meridian altitudes of the sun; when
possible both kinds of observations were taken at the same camp, the
latter being preferred, and as a rule they agreed quite closely. Observations for time were almost always on the sun, occasionally on a star,
Arcturus being generally selected.  My assistant, Mr. W. I. Wood, and
myself each took about the same number of observations during the
trip.  The trail was kept by Mr. W. H. Wood and Mr. iH. G. Prout.
The astronomical computations were made and the work plotted in
the field.  On my return to this office the computations were re-examined
and the work replotted by Mr. Wood and nmyself.
Inclosed is a sketch showing the principal points and the bearings
taken from them as stated above.
Very respectfully, your obedient sergvant,
D. P. HEAP 
Cap)tainq of Enigineers.
Captain J. W'. BARLOW,
Corps of Engineers, Chicago,? Illinois.
C
43