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THE BIBLE IN THE LEVANT;
OR THU
LIFE AND LETTERS OF THE
REV. C. N. RIGHTER,
AGENT OF THE AMERICAN BIBLE SOCIETY, IN
THE LEVANT.
BY SAMUEL IRENLEUS PRIME.
NEW YORK:
SHELDON & COMPANY.
BOSTON: GOULD & LINCOLN.
1859.




Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, b3
SHELDON  &  CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.




DEDICATION.
-0TO THE MOTHER
WHO FREELY GAVE HER BELOVED SON
TO  THE  SERVICE  OF GOD  IN  A  FOREIGN
LAND
AND DID NOT REGRET THE GIFT WHEN HE DIED
FAR AWAY,
Wbis B3ook is  tputefultI XI trinbtI,




PREFACE.
FEW words of preface are required for this unpretending
volume.
A man's life is not to be measured by the number of his
years. It has been well said that some die old at thirty
and others young at fourscore. The subject of this sketch
was formed for high accomplishment, and to all human
appearances was destined to do a great work in the service
to which he was called. His early removal was a sad blow
to the host of friends who were looking to his future with
high hopes. But the thoughts of Infinite wisdom  are
higher than ours. And while we bow with resignation to
the will of Him who called our friend and brother so early
to himself, we find a mournful satisfaction in preparing
these memorials of one whose name and virtues will long
be fragrant in the hearts of all who knew him.




CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
The Author's First Meeting with Righter-General Character-Striking Features-A Sea Voyage with him,.   7
CHAPTER  II.
Parentage, Birth, and Early Education-Conversion and
Religious Exercises-Revival in School,...  12
CHAPTER III.
Choosing a Profession-Struggles and Decision-CollegeTheological Seminary-Letter from Rev. George E. Hill
-First Preaching,..  18
CHAPTER IV.
Hindrances-Failure of his Eyes-Goes Abroad-Crosses
the Ocean-First Impressions of England-The Continent,......                                        24
CHAPTER  V.
Extracts from his Journals-Paris-Meetings with Christian Friends-Switzerland-Chamouni and the Alps,.  29
CHAPTER VI.
Travels through Italy and Greece-Into Turkey-Syria and
Egypt-Returns Home and is sent back as Agent of the
American Bible Society,...                      42
CHAPTER  VII.
Mission to the East.......  4




Vi                   CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
PAGIS
Visit to the Crimea,...                          61
CHAPTER IX.
Bible Labors in the Crimea,... 
CHAPTER X.
Bible Labors in Turkey,.                          89
CHAPTER XI.
Letters Home,........                   102
CHAPTER XII.
Visit to a Ruined City,.                        110
CHAPTER XIII.
Visit to Greece,.... 122
CHAPTER XIV.
Visit to Egypt,....                       137
CHAPTER XV.
Visit to Palestine,.                             154
CHAPTER XVI.
Bethany and Bethlehem,....         177
CHAPTER XVII.
Jordan and the Dead Sea,..                 191
CHAPTER XVIII.
From Jerusalem to Damascus,....203
CHAPTER XIX.
Journey to Nineveh,....              216
CHAPTER XX.
His Journal,....246
CHAPTER XXI.
Last Illness and Death,..                        297
CHAPTER XXIL
Tributes to his Memory,... 319




CHESTER N. RIGHTER.
CHAPTER I.
THE AUTHOR'S FIRST MEETING WITH RIGHTERGENERAL CHARACTER-STRIKING FEATURESA SEA VOYAGE WITH HIM.
SIx years ago, in the spring of 1853, the writer
of these pages, a poor invalid, was lying on a pile
of trunks at the end of a pier in the East River,
waiting, with many others, for the steam tug that
was to take him and them to a ship in the stream.
Worn out with long protracted sickness, embarking without a single companion for a year of
foreign travel, he was sadly despondent and half
inclined to abandon the voyage. At this moment
two young men were introduced to him; both of
them ministers of the gospel, both of them just
about to embark for foreign travel, both of them
intending to make the tour of Europe, and to
journey into the East. One of these gentlemen




8          TRAITS OF CHARACTER.
was the Rev. George E. Hill, of Boston, the other
was Chester Newell Righter, the subject of this
sketch. A mutual sympathy seemed instantaneously to unite us. In a few moments the plans
of the year were compared, and without any further concert or agreement, it fell out that we
joined our fortunes, and together made the journey, with scarcely any separations till we returned
home, in the same vessel, in the spring of 1854.
Righter was a genial, warm-hearted, noble
young man.  A  good scholar, a fluent speaker,
ready in conversation,-full of ardor, enthusiasm
and energy, buoyant and hopeful, never doubting
or afraid, never sick or weary, with exuberant
spirits and inexhaustible powers of enjoying or
suffering, he was just the companion one wants on
land or sea, in desert or city, by night or day.
His eyes had failed while he was pursuing his
studies for the sacred ministry, and he had been
wisely counselled to spend a year in relaxation
and travel. On shipboard the fine points of his
character were soon developed. A week at sea
brings out the weaknesses as well as the strength
of men. He was with me in all weathers, and in
various lands and seas, in times to try the patience, and the faith, and every virtue of the soul;
and during all the time he was with me, I never
knew him to be other than a high-minded, honorable, faithful, Christian gentleman and friend.




ON THE SEA.               9
When others were sea-sick, when every passenger on the steamer was stretched out in helpless
distress, victims of that malady which everybody,
except the victim, laughs at, but to which almost
every one succumbs, Righter would stride the
deck, swinging his arms and rejoicing in the
storm-fearless of danger, and strong in his exemption from the falling sickness to which all
around him were a prey. This was a fair type
and exhibition of his character.  What was to
be done, he was ready to do; what was to be
borne, he was ready to suffer. Prompt in his decisions, tenacious of his purposes, self-sacrificing
and obliging, when the feelings of others were
involved, he was the first in every movement to
promote the general comfort of the company, the
last to yield when difficulties were to be overcome.
His principles of right and wrong were intelligently settled, and he had no occasion to be
"making up his mind" as to the path of duty.
The way was always plain, and he pressed straight
forward in the fear of God, and without any fear
of man. Religion was a well-spring of life and
joy in his soul. In all places and times he was
the'same earnest, outspoken, uniform Christian;
never obtruding his opinions on those to whom
they were not due, but never ashamed, afraid, or
unable to give a reason for the hope that was in




10              ASPIRATIONS.
him. Yet he was modest with all his self-reliance, gentle with iron firmness, easily to be entreated, while he was bold as a lion.
With such a rare and beautiful mingling of
elements in his character, I marked him out as a
man who had a work to do for his age and the
world. Often we lay on deck as we were traversing from land to land the Mediterranean Sea,
and when the stars were looking down on us we
would while away the hours with long and wandering talks of the future, and then I found that
the aspirations of his soul were in harmony with
my hopes and prophecies of his career. He was
burning to be what I was sure he would be, if God
had work for him on this earth. No matter what
it was, if the mountains were to be brought down,
or the wilderness to be reclaimed by human
agency, he was ready to do what the Lord would
have him do. And more; he was anxious to be
at work.  I do not know that the fires of an
earth-born, selfish ambition, a paltry spirit of selfglory, ever burned for a moment in his manly
breast.  He must have been ambitious-it was
part of his nature.  But it was a noble, baptized, holy ambition, to do something for God
and mankind.  He longed to see the world, to
know it, to take the measure of it, to compass its
wants, to study the ways and means to meet them,
and, with a full consciousness of his own inherent




A BROTHER.               11
physical and mental adaptedness to labor, he was
willing to give himself as a servant, a soldier, a
follower, or a leader, to be used as the Lord should
appoint in the field of the world.
This was the man with whom I became acquainted under circumstances of peculiar interest,
and in a few days, from a stranger, he became a
friend and brother beloved. He grew close to
my heart. He was with me in times of trial and
peril; in seasons of rich enjoyment; the wonders
and glories of nature and art, in the course of a
year's travel in Europe and the East, were shared
together, and when he went out again into the
foreign field to do a mighty work, and there died
in the midst of his labors, I mourned his death
as that of a brother, and cried with David over
Jonathan, " I am distressed for thee, my brother:
very pleasant hast thou been unto me, thy love
to me was wonderful."
And this tribute to his memory is but a feeble
memorial of one of the purest, noblest young men
it was ever my joy to know.




CHAPTER II.
PARENTAGE, BIRTH, AND EARLY EDUCATIONCONVERSION  AND  RELIGIOUS  EXERCISESREVIVAL IN SCHOOL.
HE was born September 25, 1824, at Parsippany, in New Jersey.  His estimable parents
were among the most respectable people in the
rich agricultural region of Morris County. His
mother was eminently a devout woman, full of
faith and prayer, and consecrating her children
with all the ardor of a mother's love and the confidence of a firm belief in the promises, to the
service of God.
All the children-there were two daughters
and four sons-had the best opportunities of
early education, and one of the sons studied a
profession, and is a successful lawyer in the city
of Newark, N. J.
Chester, in very early life, disclosed a fondness
for books. Apt to learn, and ambitious of excelling, he made rapid attainments in learning. At
the age of twelve he was sent from home to a
classical school at Wantage, N. J., under the care
of his uncle, Mr. E. A. Stiles, where he pursued




THE REVIVAL.               13
his studies with great success, and was fitted for
college. One of his cousins, who was in the
same family, has furnished me with a sketch of
the character and progress of the boy, and it is so
like the man that I must copy the portrait here:
"Even then, when he was only twelve years old,
were largely developed that fearless assurance
and determined purpose which distinguished-him
in after life, and formed him' for action in so wide
a field. After a few months' study here, the
school was suspended; Chester returned home
and remained there two years and a half, and
when his uncle, Mr. Stiles, resumed his school
again at Wantage, Chester joined him, and remained under his instruction until he was pre
pared to enter college.
" During the second year of this period of study,
a series of religious meetings was held in the
Clove Church, about a mile from the school, by
the Rev. T. S. Ward. The pupils were allowed
to attend the services, or to stay at home, as they
preferred.  Righter was one of the few  who
attended them  from  the beginning regularly.
The interest in the meetings increased. On the
third evening all the teachers and pupils attended.
The house was thronged, and the audience deeply
solemn under the preaching of the word. Many
were powerfully impressed by the truth and the
Spirit. The next morning young Righter went
2




14               CONVERSION.
to his uncle with the great question'What must
I do to be saved?' That night on retiring to his
room, he found his brother, who was a teacher in
the school, sitting at his table writing, and he exclaimed,'0 brother, how can you sit still and
write while I am  perishing in my sins?' His
brother invited him to repent of his sins and turn
to Christ with all his heart. He bade him kneel
with him and give himself up to the Lord Jesus
Christ for time and eternity. They knelt, and
prayed together; wrestled long and earnestly on
their knees, till the awakened, anxious, convicted
sinner submitted to God. Light broke in upon his
soul. Peace was shed abroad in his heart. He
arose a new creature in Christ Jesus.
"The next morning as he entered the parlor
where family worship was to be held, his countenance reflected the calmness and joy of his soul.
His teacher and uncle said to him at once:
"'Chester, I trust you have found the Saviour.'
"' Yes, uncle,' he replied,' I have given myself
away to be his for ever.'
" The interest of the whole school in the subject
of religion was so great, it was thought best to
suspend the usual studies and hold a prayer meeting in the parlor during the forenoon. Nearly
all the pupils attended.  Young Righter was
called on to offer the first prayer. A mere boy
of sixteen, in the midst of his companions, it




THE HAYSTACK.              15
might have been feared that he would hesitate
when thus suddenly summoned to stand up as a
Christian.  But he was ready.  With equal
modesty and decision he rose and began with
humble confession of sin, grateful acknowledgment of his joy and gratitude on account of sins
forgiven, and then he prayed that all his associates might come to Christ without delay and
share in the blessings of salvation.' His words
were fluent, for he had ready command of language, and his prayer was heard with deep emotions by his companions, and, we may believe, in
heaven also, for the work of grace went on and
others were brought in. With them he organized
a prayer meeting, which was held daily, at noon,
behind a haystack, in.the midst of the winter
season. If the daily noon prayer meetings were
held earlier than this, I have not seen any account
of them. These boys kept them up, with great
interest, regardless of the weather; their young
hearts being warm and their petitions earnest for
more and more of the Holy Spirit. This was the
beginning of our friend's Christian life. In March
of the same year, 1841, with thirty others, he
made a public profession of religion, uniting with'the Clove' church, in that neighborhood. Now
he was a professed follower of Christ, a soldier of
the cross, young but strong in the Lord. His
face was set toward heaven, and so was his heart.




16             HIS EXAMPLE.
" Grace begun in his soul wrought a great and
decided change.  With the resolute will and
energy, which I have mentioned, he had also an
irritable temper, and these traits of character
made him often overbearing. He had been the
leader in the sports of the school, and many had
found him  too fond of having his own way.
But it is the testimony of those who knew him
then, that from the time he became a child of
God, he was indeed a new creature. Patient
perseverance took the place of fitful haste, decision in the right succeeded to a desire to have
things to suit himself. Moral courage was soon
revealed in his unbending opposition to all that
was wrong in the school, even when he was compelled to stand alone. His example was thus a
powerful aid in the discipline of the school, and
his influence was felt in-doors and out, upon all
who were with him. The secret of this great
change, and the rapid progress of grace in his
soul, was his invariable habit of prayer. Without
ostentation, he led a life of constant communion
with God; seeking, day by day, the help he
needed to overcome indwelling sin, get the victory
over himself, and to be qualified for the service
of the Saviour.
"During a school vacation, he was at home. His
father was not a professor of religion, but Chester
was encouraged to conduct family worship, which




HIS PRINCIPLE.             17
he did with readiness. One morning he had
made arrangements with a friend for an excursion
that required them to make an early start. The
horses were at the door. His friend was impatient, and reminded him that his hurry seemed to
be over, asking him why he delayed. Righter
simply remarked that the family were not quite
ready for prayers, and he would start as soon as
they had had morning worship. This friend was
a neglecter of religion, and never had been in the
habit of attending'family prayers,' but without
saying a word, he took his seat and remained,
apparently interested in the service.
" Such an incident serves to show the early decision which Righter had made to be prompt and
faithful in the performance of Christian duty, and
the habit thus formed grew with him till it became a part of his sanctified nature, an abiding
principle which governed him  at home and
abroad, on land and sea. He was a praying
youth and a praying man. He obtained strength
in prayer. Great trials and strong conflicts were
before him. Few men have been so soon called
to make such sacrifices as he made and to endure
such temptations, and if he had not been strong
with God, the world and the flesh would have
prevailed.  Then this record had never been
made."
2*




CHAPTER III.
CHOOSING A PROFESSION-STRUGGLES AND DECISION-COLLEGE-THEOLOGICAL SEMINARYLETTER FROM  REV. GEORGE E. HILL-FIRST
PREACHING.
RIGHTER was now at a point in his history
where the choice of a profession or pursuit must
be made. In the ardor of his first love for Christ
and his cause, we would expect him to look at
the ministry as his field, and that he would throw
himself, heart and soul, into the work of preparation for that high and holy calling. Why should
he not?
There were two reasons, at least, that he must
meet and answer before he could decide the question that now pressed itself home on his conscience.
He was naturally of a jovial disposition. Fond
of fun and frolic when a boy, he did not lose his
love for innocent amusements when he forsook
all that he knew were sinful. This was now in
his way when he thought of entering the hallowed walks of the ministry. His fondness for
pleasantry might degenerate into levity. Cer



A GREAT QUESTION.             19
tainly he was now far from having that sobriety
of manner which befits the clerical profession.
If he should become a minister, and then dishonor the name and office, by his inconsistent deportment, to the injury of the cause and the ruin
of souls, it were better that he had never been
born, or that he had turned the current of his life
into some channel where his example would be
less conspicuous, and so less injurious. But this
was not a fatal objection. He had found, by his
own experience in the divine life, that grace could
overcome nature, and his own good sense assured
him that cheerfulness was far more desirable than
austerity in the minister of the gospel. He was
willing to trust God for help to subdue all that
was positively wrong. While he would be a
joyful Christian, he did not wish to appear to be
anything else. This objection was, therefore, laid
aside, but there was one more serious.
The father of Righter, if a Christian, was reserved in regard to his feelings, and made no
profession, even to his nearest friends, of being
interested, personally, in religion. Possessed of
an ample property, and being largely engaged
in business, he was a man of the world. Safe
in his judgments, but enterprising and successful, he had several distinct branches of business, agricultural, mercantile, and manufacturing,
in which he was engaged, with the aid of his




20               HIS FATHER.
sons. It was against his wishes that his son,
Chester, began to turn his thoughts toward the
ministry. It would be far more to the father's
taste if the son would enter into business with
him. It was easy for Mr. Righter to set before
his son inducements of a worldly nature, that
would compel him to pause, and think twice and
long, before he threw them aside, as unworthy
of his pursuit and love. Righter has told me
that this was a temptation and trial.. While he
justly regarded the gospel ministry as the wide
field for usefulness that he burned to enter, he
was not ignorant that he must sacrifice the prospect of wealth and future ease. But the trial
was greater when he saw his father advancing in
years, and earnestly anxious to secure him in
such pursuits as would make his son the companion and comfort of his old age. To become a
minister he must leave houses and lands, father
and mother, for Christ's sake. This was the
alternative. He has assured me that he was
able without much of a struggle to forego the
attractions of the world, but he desired greatly to
please his father, and his mind was long in the
balances of doubt as to what was duty in these
circumstances. But the Lord was calling him,
and the call proved to be irresistible. To his
young and buoyant spirit no pleasure on earth
was more alluring than the joy of publishing glad




IN COLLEGE.               21
tidings of salvation. No wealth was' more precious in his sight than the unsearchable riches of
Christ, which one who called himself less than
the least of all saints was permitted to preach to
perishing men. And when he saw in the gospel
that, in this very connexion, he was told by his
Master to leave father and mother for the sake of
the work to which he was called, he resolved in
the dew of his youth, to give himself to the ministry of reconciliation.
With this purpose once formed, he went forward steadily to realize the desires of his soul.
In the fall of 1842 he entered Yale College,
and after completing his course of study there
and graduating with honor, he pursued the study
of theology at New Haven and Andover.  One
of his classmates in College, who was afterwards
an intimate friend, and our companion in travel,
the Rev. George E. Hill, has given me a few
memoranda of his literary career which I here
employ.
"He entered college with high resolutions to
lead a life of devotion to study, and to such discipline of heart as would prepare him for the profession which he sought. He was regarded by
his associates as exceedingly reserved and diffident.  His reputation was that of a diligent
student, rather than a social companion, and
rarely did he mingle in the sports of college life.




22            MR. HILL'S LETTER.
With his fine talents and this exemplary diligence, it was a matter of course that his standing
as a scholar was high. Modest and retiring, but
always a gentleman in his bearing and address,
he was universally respected and esteemed. Indeed I never knew that he had an enemy.
"We were together again in the closing year
of our theological studies, and then for the first
time I began really to know the value of our
friend. He was still the same diligent student,
but his soul was now  glowing with a warm
ambition to be useful in the service of Christ.
His former reserve had melted away. He was
ready to speak for his Master, and earnestly engaged in winning souls for him. This strong
desire was seen and felt in his labors in a Bible
Class connected with the Centre Church, New
Haven.
"I well remember too, the ardor with which
he entered upon our first preaching enterprise, in
the little brick school-house at Hampden, five
miles east of the city. Here we held religious
service every Sabbath evening, in the winter's
cold, but we were warm for our hearts burned
within us, as we walked by the way. It was
then and there, in speaking for the first time as
an ambassador of Christ to his fellow-men, that
his tongue was really loosed, and his whole soul
glowed in his earnest face as he besought men to




HIS CHARACTER.               23
be reconciled to God. How often on the vessel's
deck, and in strange lands beyond the sea, as we
have sung together those familiar songs of Zion,
has he spoken of the meetings in the brick schoolhouse, as among the happiest memories of his
student life.
" Of the subsequent character and career of our
friend and brother I have no need to write to
you, for you knew him  afterward, even better
than I. But his uniform  benevolence, his unselfishness, his tender regard for the interests and
the feelings of others; his unaffected modesty,
coupled with a manly heroism that despised danger and never felt fear; his fervent and consistent piety; his powers of endurance and his
willingness to do and to suffer in the service of
his Master, all this and more you know, and will
portray, if you put your pen to the delightful
work of perpetuating the memory of our beloved
Righter."




CHAPTER IV.
HINDRANCES -FAILURE  OF  HIS  EYES- GOES
ABROAD-CROSSES THE OCEAN-FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ENGLAND-THE CONTINENT.
DURING the latter part of his course of theological study, Righter was afflicted with weakness
of his eyes. The usual remedies were resorted
to, and temporary repose was tried without benefit.
He was advised to spend a year or two in foreign
travel, that entire cessation from study for such a
length of time might give his eyes a fair opportunity to recuperate. Such a prescription was not
disagreeable to the patient. It fell in with his
own predilections, and finding in his friend Hill,
whose letter has just been given, a congenial
companion, he made arrangements at once for a
journey into foreign lands.
His journals during this tour were kept with
great regularity, and a daily record is made of
every event of interest that occurred, every place
that he visited, every object that he studied, every
notable person that he met. But these records
are the briefest possible-often mere catchwords;
for the use of his eyes, even to make the entries




GOING AWAY.                25
in his diary, was a trial to which he was afraid to
subject them. He designed, if it were right for
him to do so, to correspond with some newspaper
while'he was abroad, but after a few attempts at
writing he was obliged to desist, and confine himself to short notes in his journals, and occasional
letters to his friends. These manuscript records
of travel, going over the same ground that I traversed with him, are now lying around me, and
they awaken a thousand pleasing recollections, as
I turn over the pages and find my own name so
often among the incidents of that varied year.
His parting with his parents at the wharf, with
other friends who went with us down the bay,
his feelings in view of the separation and hopes
of the future are hinted at in terms that are easily
intelligible to the eye of affection, and disclose
the warmth of his love. The voyage is to him a
succession of joyous days and charming nights.
In the morning he is getting up athletic sports
for exercise: in the afternoon he is reading or
talking French with the ladies: in the evening
some literary exercise is'on hand for the entertainment of the passengers. Sabbath comes, and
he is holding religious meetings with the seamen.
Others are stricken down with sea-sickness, and
I find that he mentions me as the first victim,
while he flatters himself that he will escape altogether. He does not. A  slight attack knocks
3




26                AT SEA.
him over, and teaches him that he is not more
than human. But he was speedily on his feet
again, and that was the last of his maritime disasters. All the way over the sea he was rejoicing in the beauty, the grandeur, and glory of
the ocean. In the storms he was confident, and
delighted to fix himself in the bows of the ship
that he might see and feel the power and majesty
of the waves. And if he had been compelled to
say with the Psalmist, "All thy billows have
gone over me," I think he would have been
calm and trusting, for he knew that in the uttermost part of the sea the hand of the Lord would
lead and uphold him. He was not anxious to
reach the shores of Europe. Our voyage in a
packet-ship, Capt. Hovey, with a pleasant cabinful of passengers, was made in sixteen days, and
Righter was one of many who would have been
glad to extend it a week longer.
On landing at Portsmouth, on Sabbath morning, he walked to the Parish Church of St. Thomas,
where we united in thanksgiving to Almighty
God for his care over us while on the deep.
The next day he was wandering over the Isle of
Wight. At Ryde he calls on the Rev. Dr. Ferguson with whom he is greatly pleased, and the
gratification would seem to have been mutual, for
he acknowledges the gift of a volume of sermons
from the Dr. as a token of his regard. He ad



ENGLAND.                 27
mires the lovely scenery through which he passes;
the smooth roads, the hedges and flowers, and
green fields, a vision of rural culture and widespread taste in the order of nature, which he had
never enjoyed before. The ancient Carisbrooke
Castle impresses him deeply with its walls and
battlements, its remarkable well, its romantic history. But even more does his spirit find refreshment and delight in a pilgrimage to the grave of
the Dairyman's Daughter in Areton Church-yard.
He notes the tolling of the bell and the funeral
procession that marked his visit there. He gathers flowers from  among the tombs to send to
friends at home; for his heart was with them
always, and when enjoying things abroad the
most, "he was always thinking of ways and means
to share it with those far away.
He hastens to London and records his "first
impressions" of the great city. Lost in its vastness, he seems, from his brief notes, to be overwhelmed with a sense of the extent and power of
the great metropolis, so that it required time to
adjust his mind to the new world by which he
was surrounded. But he was soon studying it
systematically and thoroughly, visiting its great
benevolent. institutions, finding access to public
men, enjoying the private hospitalities of many
kind friends whom he found or made.
He pursued his journey to France and Swit



28              ENJOYMENT.
zerland, ENJOYING everything with a heartiness
refreshing to his companions, and making notes
in his journal, giving glimpses of his own character that will present him pleasingly tG the reader.
We will make a few extracts from his note books
which are before us, to the number of a dozen or
more.




CHAPTER V.
EXTRACTS FROM HIS JOURNALS-PARIS-MEETINGS WITH CHRISTIAN FRIENDS-SWITZERLAND
-CHAMOUNI AND THE ALPS.
FROM MR. RIGHTER S JOURNAL.
SUNDAY, June 10th, 1853.-In the afternoon
we receive an invitation to attend a little prayer
meeting of Americans at the house of a good lady
resident here, and we hail the opportunity with
joy; we go, and find a delightful little gathering
and union of Christian hearts there, and it indeed
seems like the house of God and the gate of
heaven to our souls. It is proposed, as the need
is peculiarly felt by those present, to make an
effort to establish an American Church in Paris,
where service will be performed for their benefit
especially; which shall be attractive to them, and
will make them feel at home in their church in a
strange land. It meets the approbation and earnest prayer of all present, and I trust may result
through the effort and prayer of that little meeting in Rue d'Astorq. In the evening we hear
Mr. Bridel in his neat little evangelical chapel.
The tones of his voice are very touching, and
3*




30             HIS JOURNAL.
much effect is produced on the audience. The
singing in French, by the congregation, is very
delightful indeed to us who have been so long
from heart-felt devotional worship.
MONDAY, June 11th.-In  the evening we
attend another meeting to consult in reference to
the expediency of establishing an American
Church in Paris. The need is felt deeply by all
present. Rev. Mr. Bridel, the protestant evangelical French minister in the city, gives an affecting account of the cases in which young men
from America, entire strangers, have written to
him in times of sickness, to come and visit them.
And how far more grateful and useful to them in
such cases, would be an American Christian
brother from their own native land. He would
be the medium, also, between the Americans and
French, the religious ambassador here. There
are two hundred American families resident here,
and five hundred or two thousand persons constantly here for business or pleasure. All these
might be attracted to a house of God. I trust the
movement will meet with a cordial response from
America.
WEDNESDAY, July 27th, 1853.-At length we
arrive in the lovely vale of Chamouni with the
summit of Mont Blanc before us, and the mer
de grace and mountain peaks around. It is a
lovely spot in a clear summer evening, as the last




CHAMOUNI.                31
rays of the setting sun are lingering on the
monarch of mountains rolled in clouds with a diadem of snow circling his brow.
In the evening we go out to take a view around
from the church steps near by, and here we fully
realize the poetry, and yet the truthfulness of
Coleridge's hymn written at Chamouni. The air
is clear and cloudless now, a light is shining midway up the mountain; the fire of a party who are
making the ascent, and have encamped there for the
night, and Jupiter, bright and beautiful, is shining
just above the summit. It is indeed a most sublime view. We gaze and admire for a time, then
return to our hotel, engage our guides and mules,
and make all our arrangements for the ascent of
the Jardin on the morrow.
THURSDAY, July 28th.-The morning breaks
bright and clear. We rise at six and mount our
mules provided with guides, provisions, thick
shoes, Alpine stock, green vails, spectacles, and
thick coats, for the journey to the Jardin. We
cross the green meadow, the Arve, and ascend
the mountain side. A party of ladies are before
us winding their way up the mountain side, a
picturesque view. We soon overtake and pass
them. Then we have a party above, and these
far below, in connexion with the valley beneath,
the green mountains far above, the lofty range on
the opposite side, the silver-threaded cascade




32               THE JARDIN.
winding adown it, the mer de glace, the swift running Arveiron at its base, all form a panoramic
view, the most sublime and beautiful. We cross
frequent Alpine  torrents and pass fountains
gushing from the mountain side. At one a company of Swiss girls tempt us with water and refreshments for sale. We take a hasty draught,
and mount up, until at length in three hours we
reach the Montanvert, the best point for viewing
the mer de glace, and the surrounding scenery.
Here we take a little wine, leave our trusty mules,
and commence the ascent to the Jardin on foot.
We pass along the steep mountain side, clinging
with our hands and pointing our pike, where a
single slip would precipitate us hundreds of feet
into the chasm below. Yet so great is our excitement and courage for the moment, and, moreover, so faithful are our guides that we have not
the least sense of danger. Now we reach the mer
de glace, a sea of frozen waves, with deep crevasses
and gorges, worn by the melting snow, and waterfalls rushing down the mountain side.  This
seems, indeed, frightful, accompanied with the
roar of the water far below, the fall of the
rocks, and the avalanches from  the peaks on
either side. ~ Yet we advance, leaping the chasms,
and guarding  against the covert pitfalls till
we have crossed a portion of this frozen sea and
reached an intermediate point of rocks and




GLACIERS.                33
stones, borne down by the winter's avalanche.
We look back and are amazed at the dangers we
have passed, yet, there are still more before us.
The view  is now grand indeed; the summits
around are covered with snow; numbers shoot
up far into the sky of solid rock-massive, and
of purple hue, while one just before us, is clad
with green grass and blooming flowers.  We
strengthen ourselves by a draught of cool icewater, and advance over a still more dangerous
path, till we reach the base of this peak, two hundred feet high. Here the sun shines in the rarified air with scorching heat.  We put on our
green veils and spectacles, and begin the toilsome
ascent. So bracing and exhilarating has been the
air thus far, that we scarcely feel fatigued; but
we have now passed from winter to midsummer
heat, and begin to feel quite exhausted, and we
sit down here among the violets and Alpine roses,
and refresh ourselves with the beautiful view of
summer and winter, side by side, and rocky
snow-capped grandeur all around-perhaps the
most impressive of all, the sea of glaring ice
spread out in front. We toil up this steep ascent,
cross another belt of snow and ice, and at length,
reach the Jardin-a beautiful little oasis of green
grass and flowers, amid a desert of rocks and
snow around. A  stream of cool water gushes
from the rocks, and flows through for the refresh



34               CLIMBING.
ment of the weary traveller, and the sun shines
here with warmest ray. We find a lady has
reached here before us, and is beautifully basking
in the sunshine-(where will not enthusiastic woman go?) We pay our compliments to the fair
lady, then bestow ourselves on the grass for rest,
refreshment, and enjoyment of the scene. How
excellent we relish our cold food-ham and wine 
but the panoramic scene spread out around must
not be lost; we must pluck some flowers, as souvenirs of the place and day, and we cannot remain here but a half hour, yet we have been
walking five hours in succession, over snow and
ice; clambering rocks and climbing the mountain
peaks, and we throw ourselves down upon the
rock and enjoy a few moments of refreshing sleep.
Now we begin our return-three hours again over
the same dangerous path, to Montanvert. The
day is clear and almost cloudless, and we enjoy the
most perfect view of the sublime scenery, all the
way in clear sunlight. Frequent rocks and avalanches are falling and roaring around us, to give
effect to all, and we return unharmed, through
the guidance and protection of our God, to the
mountain where our mules are waiting to take us
again to Chamouni. We refresh ourselves again
with a cup of milk, and begin the descent. This
seems more dangerous than all (though our mules
are most trusty), for a single step would plunge




GETTING DOWN.              35
us down a steep precipice and dash us to pieces;
and the path is steep, jagged, and winding zigzag down, yet we are so excited with the scene
and situation, that we do not fear the danger before us. How beautiful the green valley of grass,
and grain, and trees, stretches below, as the sunlight falls upon it; how the last rays of the setting sun play upon yonder summits, till at last
they have gone from all save Mont Blanc-still
they bathe the monarch's brow with purple and
gold, and finally are gone from view. The whole
view seems now  more picturesque than ever.
The water courses of the avalanches above, now
clothed with green, the meadow, the silver cascades, the mountain peaks, the mer de glace-all
in the mellow light of sunset, are surpassingly
beautiful.
At length we safely reached our hotel at Cha
mouni, after fourteen hours of climbing up and
down on foot and on mules-feeling that we had
never enjoyed such a day before, and full of gratitude to our God that he has brought us thus
happily to its close.
Though the sun has been intensely hot, and the
reflection from the ice and snow very great, yet
our green vails have protected us almost entirely
from sunburn and blister, so frequent and so distressing in such cases-let me recommend it to
all. Thus passed a most memorable day of my




36             COL DE BALME.
life, in ascending the Alps to the "Garden of
Flowers," and returning to the vale of Chamouni.
A refreshing supper, a warm bath, and bathing
also the face and feet with cream and brandy,
prepared us for a good night's rest.
SATURDAY, 30.-The morning dawns clear,
and betokens a fair day for the mountains. We
mount our mules at an early hour for Chamouni, a ride of eight hours across a difficult pass.
As we pass through the valley we meet peasant girls riding " stride their mules," at full trot,
with morning provisions for the village.  We
choose the most difficult pass of the Col de Balme
for the benefit of, by far, the finest views, in a
clear day. We mount up the mountain side four
hours, passing many cascades, mountain torrents
and courses of the winter avalanche by the way;
also villages where the peasants live in some
sunny spot on the mountain side. Here they
cultivate their little patches of grain and potatoes, and grass for themselves and cows, in store
for winter, while they drive their cattle far up in
summer to pasture. The scene of the herds on
the hill-side, and the tinkling of a hundred bells
as we pass along, is most delightful. At length
we reach the top, where is a comfortable house
of refreshment for the traveller. Here the finest
view of Mont Blanc and the vale of Chamouni
is obtained, and we realize, as never before, the




MONT BLANC.               87
majesty of this monarch of mountains, and still
more of Him who made this mount glorious as
the sun, clothed him with rainbows, and spread garlands at his feet of loveliest hue. We invert our
faces as we have done before, and it changes all into
a fancy Alpine scene; we recommend the experiment to all. Here, also, the coileau alone wings
his flight above the clouds. But the air blows
cold and chilly from Mont Blanc and the snow
around, and I dismount my mule, and descend on
foot. The scenery is grand and beautiful-of
Alpine summits pinnacled in clouds above and
below me, and the mule path I am to follow, winding far through the valley. I am above the limit
of trees or vegetation, save two months in summer. I pass a little chalet where the shepherds
keep their cattle, and make abundance of cheese
and butter in the summer months and pass a
pleasant word with them. The Swiss peasantry
are most sociable and polite to strangers, always
bidding you good morning, and giving civil
answers to your questions.
I gather flowers as I descend; the number, and
variety, and beauty of these Alpine flowers, growing wild upon the mountain side, is almost beyond
conception. I find two little kids sleeping in my
path; I approach them gently, and caress them,
and they return the attention as kindly as if I
were their guardian friend.  How magnificent
4




38               THE SWISS.
the view in this clear full sunlight, amid these
crags, and peaks, and flowers, and waterfalls, as I
descend alone, in advance of my party, the zigzag
path down the mountain. I had experienced such
emotions of sublimity, and power, and grandeur,
as I have never felt before.
In two hours I reach the base, and rest at a
sweet little cottage in the valley, for my friends
to overtake me. The family soon gather around
me-father, mother, daughters, children and all.
I tell them I am from America, and invite them to
sing a Swiss song. To this one readily consents,
and the music is most beautiful in the open air,
and in the magnificence and beauty of nature
around me. A little girl brings me flowers, and
they set out fresh strawberries, creatm, and wine,
for my refreshment; and under these circumstances I appreciate and enjoy the view of the
valley, cascades, clouds, sky, and mountain grandeur, as I had not done before.  How much
the presence of human nature, however humble,
adds to the beauty of nature herself, however
grand.
My friends soon came upon their mules, and I
join the party, bidding farewell to the pretty little
Swiss demoiselle with twinkling eyes, with whom
I had formed a surprisingly romantic glancing
acquaintance in so short a time. We ascend two
hours, and descend two hours more, amid the most




GOITRE.                 39
sublime of scenery; viewing the valley of the
Rhone, the road of the Simplon, and the vale of
Martigny, lying below us; and at six in the evening reach our hotel, quite satisfied with the romance of mule riding, for the present. But this
is a low alluvial valley, filled with stagnant water,
and infested with malaria and damp; and all the
women as well as many of the men, have the
goitre-a large conical or circular swelling in the
throat, six or eight inches in circumference; numbers also have the fever and ague. It is the hotbed of disease; we cannot think of spending the
Sabbath here. We take a little refreshment of
strawberries and cream, and engage a voiture for
the baths of Larey, two hours and a half distant.
Little girls meet us at every turn, with flowers,
cherries and strawberries for sale; the women and
peasants are bringing home upon their heads large
bundles of hay and grain from the mountains; they
are too poor to keep mules or donkeys, and they
carry everything, wood and all, upon their heads,
most enormous loads. The air blows damp and
pestilential through the valley, yet we must open
our carriage windows to see this beautiful cascade,
falling hundreds of feet from the solid rock. How
splendid is the white dashing spray in the evening
light! We ride on, and in one hour reach the
baths of Larey; here a worthy host and good
hotel receive us for the Sabbath. The evening




40               SABBATH.
scenery is beautiful; of a rocky amphitheatre
around and a quiet valley below, while the turbid Rhone roars swiftly through. Many ladies
appear in front to greet our arrival. It is a
French watering-place, and a party of Americans
are quite a novelty here. We, however, take a
mineral bath and bestow ourselves to bed, much
fatigued by the mule and foot mountain travel of
the day.
SUNDAY, 31.-The morning breaks again, clear
and balmy; it is the Sabbath and our hearts in
unison with nature around, join in praise to God
for this sweet secluded Sabbath in a vale of Switzerland. The whole scenery around seems in harmony with the day; the sky is more pure, and the
clouds float more gently on the Sabbath, and I
read my Bible with more spirit and unction than
since I left the shores of America. Service is
held in French, in the saloon of the hotel. It is
evangelical and devotional, and much we enjoy it.
The singing is touching to the Christian heart.
After service we sang several of our American
hymns. After dinner I walk out alone, and enjoy
the beauty of the scene and hold communion with
God. It is a most lovely Sabbath to me; the
clouds resting far down the mountain sides, and
clinging round the summits, or floating high above
all, are beautiful indeed.
In the evening we have service in the private




SERVICE.               41
parlor of Mons. Deprezenski, and afterwards have
an American service by ourselves, apart, and
much enjoy the Sabbath in spiritual devotion. In
the afternoon I walk up to a little summer house,
and there hold fellowship with nature and God in
his sublimest goings forth.
4*




CHAPTER VI.
TRAVELS THROUGH ITALY AND GREECE-INTO
TURKEY-SYRIA AND EGYPT-RETURNS HOME
AND IS SENT BACK AS AGENT OF THE AMERICAN
BIBLE SOCIETY.
IT would be more than pleasant to me to follow
him, or rather to go again with my friend through
the remainder of this year's journey, revisiting
the scenes that had such a charm for him, and are
now to me invested with a sacred interest associated as they are with the memory of one who has
"passed into the skies."  Hand in hand we visited
Genoa and Turin, and Milan, whose Cathedral
Righter admired more than any building he saw
in Europe; and he climbed to its roof before sunrise to see the first glory of the morning break on
the distant mountain tops; and Venice where he
was in a dream of delight in the silent streets and
decaying palaces of that mysterious city; and
Florence, in whose galleries of art we studied day
after day, and at night enjoyed the society of
friends from  our own land; and Rome, once
called the Eternal city, now the city of the Past;
and Naples and its environs-the sepulchres of




IN CONSTANTINOPLE.          43
cities. And here we took ship again and touched
at Malta, and then passed into Greece and climbed
the Acropolis at Athens, and sojourned with Drs.
King and Hill, and their families, and the Buels and
the Arnolds, devoted Baptist missionaries there;
and then we passed across the Archipelago and
touched at Smyrna, and then went up the Hellespont into the Sea of Marmora, and visited the great
city of the Orient, on the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. What impressions this visit made upon
him I would give in his own words, but his journals, during this tour, were never written up, and
although voluminous, they are not complete.
The sentences are imperfect and mere catchwords
often used that were sufficiently suggestive to
himself, but quite unintelligible to others. His
visits among the families of the American missionaries in and around the city were delightful.
He rejoiced in their work, and his heart was burning to be engaged in the same blessed labor.
One morning during our stay in Constantinople
we were visiting the Bible House, where the Holy
Scriptures, in fifteen or twenty different languages,
are kept for sale. Righter and Hill were the companions of my walk this morning. While we
were in the store, two Armenians, native preachers,
came in and made a formal appeal to my two
young friends, to remain in Constantinople and
devote themselves to the Missionary cause. Or,




44            A SUDDEN CALL.
if they could not now remain they were implored
to take the subject into serious consideration, and
if possible to revisit the East and spend their lives
in this work.  They received this appeal with
much emotion. It was an unexpected and extraordinary call. It was not easy to respond to it at
once, but they thought of it long and earnestly,
and often recurred to it as one of the most interesting incidents in the East. It was not long
after this, before Righter, obedient to clear manifestations of his duty, was on his way back again
from his native country, to distribute the Word
of God among the Armenians and Moslems, of the
Levant. The coincidence is striking, that the
call was first given to him in the BIBLE House,
and in the specific work of BIBLE distribution he
returned to Constantinople and laid down his life
in Asia Minor.
We shall be with him here again and will not
linger now. He passed on by steamer to Beyrut,
and thence by land to Sidon, Tyre, Nazareth, and
down to Jaffa. The unsettled state of the country
rendering it unsafe to travel in the interior, we
sailed from Jaffa to Alexandria, visited Cairo and
the Pyramids, and then came home by way of
Malta, Marseilles, Paris, London, and Liverpool.
Just one year had been spent in this journey.
The great benefit to his eyes, and decided mental
improvement he had received from the year of




THE BIBLE CALL.             45
travel, gave zest and interest to the labors on
which he was determined to enter. He would at
once seek a pastoral settlement, and give himself
wholly to the work.
The American Bible Society had for some time
past been looking out for the man to take the
place that had been so filled with so much efficiency and ability by the Rev. Simeon H. Calhoun, its agent in the Levant.  Attention was
drawn to the two young gentlemen who had
just returned from the East, and had made themselves well acquainted with the field. There was
work for both of them, and the subject was laid
before them. Mr. Hill had already made up his
mind to enter a field of labor at home, and he is
now the faithful and able pastor of a church in
Sheffield, Massachusetts.
Mr. Righter was urged to take the office and
return at once to the Levant. There was but one
objection that seemed to him insuperable-and
that was his filial desire to remain and comfort
his parents, now far advanced in life. He visited
me in the country, and laid the whole case in my
hands, begging me to tell him what was his duty
in the premises, and declaring himself perfectly
willing to go or stay, if he could be assured of
the mind and will of his Father in heaven. That
was more than I could show him; but I was
strongly impressed with the conviction that his




46              ORDINATION.
duty lay in the foreign field. His piety was
above doubt. His energy with perseverance, and
his zeal with prudence, were well tried and known.
His heroic fortitude and his high enterprise would
make him ready for bold and noble deeds of
moral daring in the great work of giving the
Bible to the Orient, and I confess I had strong
desires that he should undertake the service.
He accepted the appointment, and was ordained
by the Presbytery of Newark, in the city of
Newark, N. J., to the work of the ministry.




CHAPTER VII.
MISSION TO THE EAST.
MR. RIGHTER left this country, for the last time
as it proved, on the 30th of September, 1854. He
sailed in the steamer Pacific, which was lost in
the following year, having never been heard from
after leaving port. A large number of his friends
were on board to bid him farewell, in the confident hope of greeting him again after an absence
of three years. He departed cheerfully, joyfully,
to enter upon the great work that had been committed to him, that of disseminating the Word of
God throughout that part of the world where it
was first published, and where the gospel had its
earliest triumphs. The voyage across the Atlantic was pleasant and prosperous. He writes to
his mother, on board the
"STEAMER PACIFIC, Oct. 7th, 1854.
"MY DEAR MOTHER: How well I remember
the last look of friends at parting, their farewell
adieus on the wharf! How they linger with me
still, by night and by day, as I sail upon the ocean,




48        LETTER TO HIS MOTHER.
assuring me, in tenderness and love, that I do not
go alone, but the Spirit and prayers of friends encompass me round in all my way. Though far
on the wide waters I am not alone or lonely-the
same stars gleam nightly in the sky as at homethe same moon shines out to cheer us on our
voyage-the same God, who upholds the pillars
of the land, doth likewise plant his footsteps in
the mighty deep, and place around and underneath us his everlasting arms. He commands the
winds and waves concerning us to bear us safely
over the sea, and we thus go on our way rejoicing.
" I enjoy much the purity and poetry of the sea,
the ideas of grandeur and sublimity it inspires,
constantly mirroring to us God in his attributes
of infinity and eternity, and lifting the soul away
from  earth to heaven.'Whither shall we go
from his presence, whither shall we fly from his
Spirit? If we ascend into heaven he is there; if
we make our bed in hell, behold, he is there; if
we take the wings of the morning and dwell in
the uttermost parts of the sea, even there shall
his hand lead us, and his right hand uphold us.'
Above, beneath, around, all speaks to us of him,
the same ever-living, ever-acting, wonder-working
God.
" We have had a delightful passage, speeding
on through the ocean day after day, calm and
tranquil as a May morning. Varying incidents




LANDING AT LIVERPOOL.           49
are constantly occurring to interest and entertain.
Now, we see a steamer in the distant horizon;
now a vessel with all sails spread to the breeze, a
splendid sight upon the wide ocean; and now a
whale spouting the water high in air; and then
an iceberg, an hundred and fifty feet above the
water, resplendent as the sunlight falls upon it
from afar. Then new and pleasant acquaintances
are formed on board; new entertainments invented-games, concerts, and lectures-all to make
the time flit quickly by, yet as the sun sinks in
liquid, golden glory, behind the western wave, our
thoughts ever turn toward home, and those we
love in that far-off land. Indeed, the ties that
bind us there seem to grow, at once, stronger and
more tender as time and distance intervene the
more between us."
Landing at Liverpool on the eleventh day, he
proceeded the next morning to London. Here
he called upon the officers of the British and Foreign Bible Society, who received him with great
cordiality, promising to co-operate with the American Society in giving the Bible to the Eastern
nations. He found that the British institution
was printing an edition of five thousand copies
for circulation at Constantinople and in the vicinity, and that it had a number already on deposit there, which could be brought into imme5




50            ISLE OF WIGHT.
diate use. The cordial reception which he met
with from the friends of the Bible in London was
very animating to his spirits, which were always
buoyant and hopeful.
Here he spent one or two days in company with
his friends, Rev. E. I. G. Prime, and Mr. D. E.
Hawley, of New York, who had left home with
him, and who were to be his travelling companions until they should reach Rome, where they
were to separate. At Havre they were joined by
Mr. Richard C. McCormick, Jr., Corresponding
Secretary of the New York Young Men's Christian Association, who went with him to the Crimea, and subsequently left him at Constantinople.
The time that they spent in the Isle of Wight was
passed delightfully among the scenes of beauty
and of interest with which that charming spot of
earth abounds, the most interesting of which are
the sacred places that have become familiar to the
whole Christian world, through the sweet pages
of Leigh Richmond's "' Annals of the Poor," the
cottage and the graves of the " Dairyman and
his Daughter," and the home and burial-place of
" Little Jane." In a letter to his brother he says:
" We made an excursion to the Isle of Wight,
which we saw in the full perfection of autumnal
beauty. Here we visited the grave and cottage
of the'Dairyman's Daughter;' saw the room in




ON THE CONTINENT.            51
which she died, and the old Bible she used to
read, with her name inscribed by her own hand;
and then we went and stood beside the grave of'Little Jane,' the young cottager, and felt our
piety quickened and strengthened as we called to
mind the life and death of these lambs of Christ's
flock, who are now clothed with all the purity
and holiness of heaven."
At Paris Mr. Righter, keeping the objects of
his mission constantly in view, called upon several brethren interested in the Bible cause, from
whom he learned many encouraging facts, not
only relating to the circulation of the Scriptures
in France, but especially in reference to the supply of the army going into the Crimea. The government had placed no obstacles in the way of
furnishing the soldiers with the Bible, and the
opportunity had been readily embraced as far as
the funds in the hands of the Paris committee
would allow. Dr. Grand Pierre, M. Presence, and
Dr. Frederic Monod were especially interested in
the objects he had in view.
At Geneva, in Switzerland, where he paused
for two or three days, he called upon Dr. Cesar
Malan, whom he had met on a previous visit;
upon Dr. Merle D'Aubigne, and Col. Tronchin,
who gave him much interesting information in
reference to the efforts making for the spread of




52               GENEVA.
the Bible in Sardinia, in which the friends of the
cause in Geneva were aided by funds from the
American Bible Society. Here he also found the
Rev. Mr. Whiting and his wife, missionaries to
Syria, who had been spending the summer in
Switzerland for the improvement of their health,
and whom he had once met, and expected again
to meet, on missionary ground. The Madiai family, who had well nigh proved martyrs to the
reading of the Bible in Tuscany, were also sojourning in Geneva at the same time. Having
been acquainted with them on his former visit to
Europe, Mr. Righter renewed the acquaintance
with heartfelt pleasure, sympathizing with them
in the persecutions which they were called to
endure, and as a representative of the friends of
the Bible in this country, tendering to them the
sympathy of Christians in America. This is, perhaps, the most appropriate place in which to insert
a letter addressed to him by these exiled and suffering servants of Christ, in reply to one he had
written from Constantinople about two months
after this visit.
" RUE ST. ANTOINE, MAISON BOERI,
"Ancienne route de France, Feb. 2d, 1855.
"MY DEAR SIR: I feel most grateful to you
for your kind remembrance of us, and very much
obliged to your dear mother for the beautiful spe



THE MADIAIS.             03
cimen of the silver-weed, as well as for the very
appropriate verses which accompanied it. I shall
preserve it carefully in my English Bible as a
memento of Christian kindness and sympathy
from the New World. It touches me much that
Mrs. Righter should have given such an honorable place to such an unworthy gift.
" I regret to say that the Bible, in question, was
taken with many other books by the Tuscan Government, and we have never been enabled to
recover them; so that you see it is quite out of
my power, unfortunately, to grant your request.
I hope you will be so good as to mention this to
Monsieur le Docteur Brigham.
" Two months back I took the liberty of writing to Mr. Cook, encouraged to do so by his having desired me, should I want anything, to address myself to him; as through the Lord's goodness I had not any personal favor to request, I
ventured to ask his aid for an object which I have
very much at heart, namely, the educating of four
young girls (children of parents who have suffered for the truth), and who are to be afterwards
employed, if the Lord will, as teachers in schools,
in order to disseminate the pure light of the glorious gospel in this benighted land. I also asked
his help to get some tracts printed in Italian, which
have been already translated, and which we would
have distributed in the mountains as well as in
5*




54                 TURIN.
the towns of my native land. The funds we have
are quite insufficient to complete either of these
objects, they are more particularly under the direction of the Count Guicciardini, who is a wellknown Christian, and extremely generous for
everything which tends to promote the glory of
his Lord and Master. A letter addressed here, to
the Poste-Restante, to him, or to the Doctor Malan, at Geneva, would be sure to find them.
" My husband joins me in every kind wish for
you and your mother, Mrs. Righter, and he desires me to salute you both in the words of the
sixth chapter of Numbers, verses 24, 25, and 26.
" And again cordially thanking you for your
welcome letter and acceptable present,
" I remain,
"Your humble servant in the Lord,
" FRANCESCO and
"ROSA MADIAI."
After pausing in Geneva Mr. Righter proceeded
on his journey reaching Turin on the afternoon
of Saturday, and left immediately for the Waldensian valley, where he spent the Sabbath, together with two friends, who were his travelling
companions, Messrs. Prime and McCormick. This
visit was one of deep interest to all who shared
in its opportunities of Christian intercourse. The
party arrived late in the evening at La Tour, but




WALDENSIAN WORSHIP.           55
upon calling in the morning on the professors of
the college they were warmly received, and the
Sabbath, spent in communion and in worshipping with the Waldensian Christians, was one
never to be forgotten. They were invited in the
morning to walk out some two or three miles to
one of the mountain churches, where they found
the young. men of the parish drawn up in martial
array, fully equipped, as for an engagement. This
had been their practice since the days when their
fathers had to worship God in the constant apprehension that their persecutors might the next
moment be upon them to silence the voice of
prayer and of praise. It was a touching sight,
on entering the little mountain chapel, to see the
aged fathers and mothers assembled for the morning worship waiting in silence for it to commence,
and with a devout and humble spirit entering
heartily into the service. As one and another
entered they stood for a few moments in silent
prayer, and then sat down t6 unite in the service.
Near this chapel, upon the mountain side, was a
rock overhanging a precipice, from which, in the
days of persecution, many victims of papal malice,
chiefly women and little children, were thrown
and cruelly murderedt-a spot which awakens
memories and emotions thrilling to every Protestant heart. But it was a pleasure to these Protestants from the New World to find the children




56          TURIN AND FLORENCE.
of the persecuted, and the children of the Most
High, enjoying such peace and prosperity, where
their forefathers had suffered the most inhuman
cruelties, and where myriads had suffered martyrdom, for no other crime than that of rejecting
the idolatries of the Romish Church.
In the afternoon these friends attended the parish church at La Tour, and in the evening met
the professors and students of the college, and
enjoyed some hours of most delightful Christian
intercourse, which was closed by addresses expressive of the mutual interest which this interview had afforded.
After spending the following day in pleasant
intercourse with Dr. Revel, then Moderator of
the Waldensian Synod, and with other Christian
friends, the party returned to Turin. Here Mr.
Righter was visited at his hotel by a number of
Italians, who, having learned that his visit was
in behalf of the Bible, earnestly importuned assistance in circulating it throughout Sardinia and
other portions of Italy. Thus, at every step in
his journey, he met with encouragement in regard to the great work upon which he had set
out. The same,'to a limited extent, was true
even in Florence, wherlthe imprisonment of the
Madiai had suppressed all public efforts to circulate the Word of God. Even at Rome he was
not without encouraging evidence that the Word




REACHES CONSTANTINOPLE.         57
of God was circulated to some extent, and that it
was desired by many more.
Touching at Malta, on his way East, he had
conferences with the English residents in regard
to the work and its progress. Hearing that the
cholera was raging at Athens, and that he could
not accomplish anything material toward carrying out the object of his mission until the next
season, he determined to sail directly to Constantinople. On the voyage, November 26, he makes
the following note in his journal:
"It is a lovely morning. We have an hour of
communion, and social worship together in our
state-room, McCormick, Wortabed, and myself.
The Assyrian seems to have a tender and warm
Christian heart. We had a pleasant converse
together. Read Psalms xci., xcvi.; John xiv.;
Rev. i."
Mr. Righter spent a day at Smyrna, where he
saw several of the missionary and other brethren,
and reached Constantinople December 1st. It
appeared as if the time of his coming was not the
most auspicious, owing to the existence of the
war, and the disturbed ste of the Eastern world
in consequence. But he soon found that a spirit
of inquiry was beginning to prevail extensively
among the people of the country, and that the




58            BIBLE MEETING.
presence of four large armies of itself opened a
vast and interesting field for the circulation of
the Bible. Mr. Barker, the agent of the British
and Foreign Bible Society, had already commenced the supply of the soldiers and sailors connected with the British army and shipping, and
those in the hospitals, both sick and wounded.
Mr. Righter at once entered with him into this
work, visiting the hospitals, anrd having access to
those on their way to the Crimea.
On the 6th of December a meeting of the Constantinople Bible Society was held. The American minister, Mr. Spence, presided, and made the
opening address, urging the circulation of the
Bible as the most effectual means of promoting
peace and good will among men.  Rev. Mr.
Thompson, the Secretary, read the report, from
which it appeared that much had been accomplished in the supply of the English and French
armies, and even of the Russian prisoners of war.
Addresses were alsomade by American and English clergymen present, and officers of the English
army and navy, and by Mr. Righter, as a representative of the American Bible Society, who assured them of the cqdial co-operation of that Society in giving the Bigle to all the dwellers and
sojourners in the East. The meeting was held in
the hall of the principal hotel, and was attended
by a large assembly of ladies and gentlemen, who




VISITS THE HOSPITALS.          59
listened for three hours with unabated interest to
the proceedings and addresses. The effect of the
meeting was to give still greater encouragement
to all engaged or interested in the cause.
On the 12th of December a meeting of the
Committee of the Auxiliary Bible Society was
held. Mr. Kumberlach presided, and made some
very interesting statements in reference to the
Russian prisoners. They received the Testaments gladly, and one officer in particular, who
had killed a number of English, earnestly besought the gift of a Testament, and others joined
in the same request. This led to a motion recommending the publication of the Old Testament in modern Russe.
Mr. Righter describes one of his visits to the
English hospital, where the wounded, some having lost arms and others legs, and others wasted
with long sickness and suffering, were lying in
great numbers, but all at length well provided
for. He says, " The Testament is placed within
the reach of all, and I saw many of them attentively reading it as I passed. I called upon the
chief surgeon, who gives his sanction and encouragement to the circulation of the Bible, and then
upon Miss Nightingale. Was delighted with her
benevolent expression and gentle spirit. She received me very kindly, and thanked me for the
interest that is felt in America in her benevolent




60        FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.
enterprise, and in the suffering English soldiers.
She has distributed many Testaments. The Roman Catholics receive them gladly, but the priests
interfered. She requests the Douay version for
them. They have 3,000 sick and wounded here,
and are expecting 1,000 more from the camp."




CHAPTER VIII.
VISIT TO THE CRIMEA.
HAVING accomplished all that required immediate attention in connexion with the Bible cause
at Constantinople, Mr. Righter determined upon
making a visit to the camp of the allied armies
at Sebastopol4 to ascertaih by personal inspection
what opening there might be for the circulation
of the Holy Scriptures among the troops. Accordingly he called upon Admiral Boxer to obtain an order or permit to visit the Crimea, which
was cheerfully given as soon as the object of the
visit was made known. Mr. Righter hastily packed
up about a hundred Bibles and Testaments for his
own personal distribution, and in company with
his friend, Mr. McCormick, on the 21st of December, went on board the transport steamer Medway, bound for the Crimea.
An account of his visit is given in his own
words, taken from a letter to the editors of the
" New York Observer."  It is a graphic description of the horrors of war, and of the desolation
which it leaves in its track.
6




62                 LETTER.
" CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, December 24, 1854.,
"MESSRS. EDITORS: It was thought desirable
that I should visit the Crimea for the purpose of
making arrangements to supply the English and
French troops with the Bible. We are in camp
before Sebastopol, on the field of Inkerman, within
the roar of the enemy's cannon, and in the midst
of shot and shell flying and bursting on either side.
The officer who entertains me was engaged in the
battle, and he walks with me a few steps upon the
hill and points out the field.'This,' said he,'where we are now standing is the famous sandbag battery which was taken and re-taken three
times in the engagement, and here the Russians
and English lay in heaps together. There the
Cossacks came up the valley at half-past six in the
morning 60,000 strong to surprise our little band
of only 8,000 men, and we fought them, hand to
hand, with sword, pistol, and bayonet, for four
hours, when we began to feel that we must soon
be overpowered by numbers and entirely cut off
to a man; but the timely relief of the French,
under General Bosquet, revived our drooping
courage-we charged down the hill-soon put
them to flight and drove them from the field, and
the French closely pursued them even within the
walls of Sebastopol. But what a terrible sight it
was the afternoon and evening after the battle, to
see the dead and dying strewn over the field,




HORRORS OF WAR.             63
mangled and cut to pieces! and then to hear the
moan of the wounded and suffering as it sounded
in our ears. Our tents, too, were all riddled and
torn by balls and shot from their cannon and
musketry, and our poor fellows were groaning for
assistance. And we scarcely dare walk among the
wounded, for the savage Russians, just able to
crawl, would bayonet and shoot our men, as they
were giving a cup of cold water to their suffering
comrades. They even fired upon us from their
batteries when we were burying their own dead
upon the field. The next day we buried a thousand Russians in one grave, and when we came to
one Englishman, our men said, "He must not go
in with the Cossacks."  I said, "Yes, they will
now surely sleep quietly side by side," and we put
him in too, and one grave closed over them all.
I never saw a battle before, and never wish to see
another. It was awful beyond conception.'
" Such is the description given me by one who
was eye-witness and took part in this terrible conflict. I then proposed to walk across a little ravine
to an adjoining height, where I could have a good
view of Sebastopol.
"'Yes,' said he,'I think it can be done now
with safety, there is less firing than usual this
afternoon, I would go with you, but I am on
double duty and cannot leave the camp. Be careful and not get beyond our entrenchments. Lord




64          VIEW OF SEBASTOPOL.
Dunkellin was taken prisoner by a party of Russians just below this.'
" After a refreshing cup of tea, I retired for the
night. There had been cheering along the lines
in the evening, and we thought it might be a
signal for the assault which was daily expected,
and as you might well imagine, my dreams were
filled with sounds of cheers, and charge, and all
the excitement of battle. Nor was it all a dream,
for the Russians made a sortie upon the trenches,
and there was a heavier cannonading than usual
that night, which shook the ground and tent
around me. In the morning I was aroused early
by the notes of the bugle, and beating of the
morning drum  to order and to arms for their
daily drill. The music sounds beautifully through
the encampment. The whole camp is soon astir,
and formed in line, and as we ride along four
miles in front, it presents a brilliant scene, with
all the pomp and circumstance of war. We have
now reached the extreme left of the English defence, and another officer wishes to accompany us
for the purpose of giving us'the best possible
view of Sebastopol and the entrenchments.' We
walk a few steps to a height above the camp, and
thence, with a good glass, can look directly into the
town, the fortifications and batteries in front of
the walls, and it indeed seems as if the Allies had
not made the least impression upon it. As our




VALLEY OF DEATH.             65
friends themselves assured us,' it is stronger now
than when they first began the siege, for the Russians have speedily repaired every damage, and
have even erected mud batteries outside the walls
to fire upon our lines.'
"' Now,' said they,'if you will walk half a mile
farther in front we will give you a still nearer
view.' So we descended into a deep ravine called'The Valley of Death,' and here the shot and
shell, thirteen inch, and twenty-four and fifty-six
pounders, lay like hailstones covering the ground,
most of Which, we were told, had been thrown
from the Russian batteries during the first day of
the bombardment, but now occasionally one is
added to the number, not a very comfortable announcement. We then ascended the height, and
here we could not only see the streets and buildings of the town, and the whole line of fortifications and entrenchments, but also the flash of the
evening guns, and could hear the shells whizzing
through the air and bursting around us. The
English were firing from their battery a few rods
below, and the French had just opened a new battery a short distance to the left; and the Russians
were answering their fire from the town. I asked,'Is it not rather dangerous here?''Yes,' said
they,'a chance shot might strike us, or it would
not be surprising if the Russians should direct a
shell toward us, seeing a little company together
6*




66           THE FRENCH CAMP.
with spy-glasses in our hands.' We then rode
across a large ravine, and came to the French
camp. They occupy the extreme left or south
side of the town, while the English hold the position to the right and north. The French have advanced much nearer the walls with their trenches
than the English, and say they will be the first
to make the assault and enter the town, and
that they will even go in alone if the English are
not ready to join them. * From this point we had
a fine view of the allied fleet lying off Cape
Chersonese, watching the movements of the Russians, though they do not venture to enter the
harbor and risk a hand-to-hand engagement with
them.
"So I set out alone to cross the valley and
ascend the hill; and then I saw another hill beyond, where a still better view might be obtained,
and having gained this, I could see the Russian
fleet, Fort Constantine, the narrow entrance of
the harbor, where they have sunk their ships, the
walls and fortifications of the town, with perfect
distinctness. Yet I saw another height beyond,
still nearer, and was advancing toward it when I
suddenly came upon a dead Russian lying beside
his horse upon the field, and then another near
by, and cannon balls and shells were now scattered thick around, and the dogs, preying upon
the dead horses, began to bark at me, and the




SUFFERING SOLDIERS.           67
battery opened its fire, sending large shells whiz
zing through the air. Just then, too, I looked
down into the ravine below, and saw a suspiciouslooking party of men, and all at once it flashed
upon me that I had probably gone beyond the
English lines. I immediately beat a retreat and
hastened back to the camp, where I related the
adventure to my friend. It was wise that I had
returned, for, said he, the enemy's advance battery
is just there, and the Cossacks frequently come
over the hill, in reconnoitring parties.
" It is now evening and quite too late to return
to-night to Balaklava, seven miles distant. I
therefore accepted my friend's kind invitation to
spend the night in his tent. We have very plain
fare, cold salt pork, hard sea-biscuit, and coffee
that is picked green and roasted, and pounded
fine with large stones, and this at the table of a
commissioned officer in the English army, yet I
relished it well since it was most heartily given.
As it is clear moonlight I spend an hour in visiting the soldiers in their tents. I found one or more
sick and suffering in almost every tent, wrapped
in blankets, and lying on the cold, damp ground.
They complained of want of warm winter-clothing and suitable provisions, having. nothing but
salt meat and no wood to cook it, stale pilot-biscuit, and green coffee, and no fire to roast it, and
no medical attendance whatever, and yet they




68       VIEW OF THE ENCAMPMENT.
are obliged to lie out in the trenches at night
exposed to the wet and cold, and in constant fear
of attack from the enemy. The night before six
had been frozen to death there, and the night before that the Russians had made a sortie upon
them and bayoneted ten others.' Our sufferings
are very great,' said they,' but we are ready to
meet the Cossacks at any moment, and die for the
glory of our country.' I could not but have a
great sympathy for the poor, brave fellows. I
spoke a kind word of encouragement, and distributed a few Bibles and Testaments to them, which
they received with much gratitude and thankfulness of heart.
" As I returned home to my tent, the view of
the encampment, stretching for miles along the
hillsides and in the valleys around, and the watchfires blazing upon the heights afar, were picturesque and beautiful. My worthy host meets me
at the door of his tent,'Do you see,' said he,'that smoke curling in the distance? You see,
then, how near we are to our enemies. That is
the smoke of the Russian camp. They have a
battery just across the ravine, and they frequently
open their fire upon us, though they have been
silent for some time past. Their men and ours
often go down to this stream  and water their
horses on opposite sides.'
"I then proceeded to head-quarters, and called




CALLS ON LORD RAGLAN.          69
upon Lord Raglan in behalf of the American
Bible Society. He received me very kindly, and
invited me to dine with him  on the following
day. At his table I had the pleasure of meeting
the officers of his staff, and an English lady, the
Hon. Miss Derryman, who had come to the Crimea to visit her brother, a young officer wounded
at Inkerman. His lordship asked me many questions about America, and was much interested, as
they all were, to know the feelings of Americans
in reference to the war.
" His Lordship lives in a large house appropriated to the purpose, about two miles from the
front camp, and maintains grand style with his
suite of apartments, and silver plate and service.
The houses and stables for his grooms and horses,
the large marquees of his officers, and the guardtents pitched around with flags floating from them,
form quite a military settlement and a gay scene.
" But it was now getting late, and his Lordship
inquired,'If we certainly knew the road to Balaklava, five miles distant,' saying,' the path was
quite uncertain at night.' We replied with some
degree of assurance, took leave of his lordship,
and set out on our way. But we had not proceeded far before a thick fog arose, and soon darkness closed around us. My friend, who assumed
to be the guide of our party, said it was now all
confused to him. He knew not whether we were




70           LOSING THE WAY.
going right towards, or right from, our point of
destination, and we were beyond the line of tents,
and saw camp-fires far in the distance. As we
rode on, however, we saw an object just before
us that appeared like a sentinel at his post. We
knew not whether he was Cossack or friend, yet
we ventured to hail him with the watchwords,'Who goes there?' ('Qui vive') and no answer
was returned; but as we advanced still nearer,
we found he was a stray horse, and could, therefore, give us no direction in the road. We rode
on another half hour, and then saw a company
of men on the hill above us, yet were in doubt
whether they were friends or Cossacks; we slowly
drew near and listened to their voices, and could
not distinguish whether they were speaking Turkish or Russian. But we had lost our way, and
must summon up courage to hail them. Happily
they proved to be French, on their road to the
camp, and, with the politeness of Frenchmen, directed us in the right path. We had not proceeded a half hour, however, before we found
ourselves again in the brushwood, quite out of
the path; but fortunately, we once more heard
voices in the ravine below, and this was a little
company of Irish soldiers, who had also lost their
way, and were pitching their tent for the night.
Said I,'Can you direct me the way to Balaklava?' One of them at once accompanied me




THE ROADS:               71
up the hill, and said,' This is the road, sir.''Are
you quite sure?' I asked.' An' faith, I am certain, sir, for I have just come it myself.' Thus
encouraged, we rode on with lightsome hearts;
presently the moon shone out in clear sky to
cheer us on our way, and then we saw the Highland camp in the valley below to guide us forward, and in one hour more we reached Balaklava and our good ship in safety, with much
rejoicing and gratitude of heart.
"It is impossible to describe the state of the
roads and country trodden and trampled down in
every direction. The work of war. The landmarks are removed, the trees cut down, the houses
torn down, and the furniture, even chairs, pianos,
and sofas, everything consumable has been used
for fuel by the army. It wis indeed a beautiful
country when the Allies first landed, abounding
in vineyards, cultivated fields, and lovely country
residences; now it is a waste of perfect desolation.
The heavy rains and dragging of artillery, have
made the mud half knee deep, and the horses, by
being overworked, are dying by hundreds in the
fields, and even the men are sinking down by the
roadside, and dying under their heavy burdens,
for as the horses have failed, they are obliged to
transport their provisions, and even their heavy
fifty-six pound shot and shell, to the camp on the
backs of men. There is great suffering too in the




72            SOLDIERS DYING.
front camp, for want of stores and warm clothing.
They are dying there at the rate of sixty per day,
and coming down sick to the Hospital at Balaklava
more than a hundred a day. And with the Turks
it is still worse.  It even amounts to a plague
among them. They are dying by fifties, emaciated
and loathsome in the extreme; you see them lying
dead and borne on litters in every direction for
burial; cast in pits, and loose dirt or stones thrown
upon them. It is dreadful to behold.
"The French, on the contrary, are better furnished with clothing, provisions, and medical
attendance; they have fresh bread every other
day in their camp, warm tents and fires, yet such
is the severity of the season here, and so great is
the exposure in the trenches at night and from rain
and snow, that the mortality among them is also
very great.
" Thus the Czar has likewise two powerful allies,
winter and disease, which are making fearful ravages among the allied troops. Reinforcements
are rapidly arriving from France and England,
but the new troops are dying faster than the old
ones, who have been.longer here, and are hardened
to the exposure. The Allies occupy fifteen miles
of defence, constantly exposed to attack from the
Russians, who are near their lines on all sides, and
have free communication with the fleet and fbrtress
of Sebastopol, as well as their provinces l'y the




TREATMENT OF TURKS.           73
way of Perekop on the north. The Allies have
100,000 men and 650 heavy guns, while the Russian army has 150,000 men, and 700 guns of
larger size than the Allies, as well as the advantage
of strong fortifications, and ammunition for two
years. I also notice that the Czar has just issued
a ukase for a new levy of one man to every
thousand in his empire, which will increase his
army more than a million. So that there must be
terrible fighting yet, and there is every prospect
that Sebastopol will not be taken at least before
next Spring.
" The most perfect good feeling exists between
the French and English on the part of soldiers
and officers; they salute each other with the common term,'buono Inglese,''buono Francese,'
good English, good French, and both equally detest
and despise the Turks, kicking and beating them
like Turkish dogs, as they themselves formerly
treated the Christians. I myself saw a Turkish
officer, with his face all cut and bleeding from the
sword of an English soldier, who escaped with a
slight reprimand, whereas if the offence had been
committed against an English or French officer, by
a Turkish soldier, he would have been immediately
shot.
"I would also add that my esteemed friend,
Mr. Richard C. McCormick, Jr., Secretary of the
Young Men's Christian Association of New York,
7




74             MR. M'CORMICK.
who has been my travelling companion from Paris
to the East, likewise acompanied me to the Crimea,
and has been of essential service to me in my.
efforts in behalf of the soldiers. His health still
continues good.
" Most sincerely your friend,
"C  N.. RIGHTER."




CHAPTER IX.
BIBLE LABORS IN THE CRIMEA.
THE letter given below was addressed to the
Secretary of the American Bible Society, and
contains a deeply interesting record of the perseverance and the success of Mr. Righter in his efforts
to secure the distribution of the Bible in the allied
armies of England and France.
"CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, Dec. 26, 1854.
"MY DEAR BROTHER: As I found that all the
avenues for Bible distribution among the soldiers
and sailors at Constantinople were occupied by
the agency of the British and Foreign Bible
Society, I decided with the advice and approbation of our good friends, to make a visit to the
camp at Sebastopol, for the purpose of ascertaining the demand there, and making arrangements
for the supply. Accordingly I was kindly presented with an order from Admiral Boxer for a
passage on board an English transport ship to the
Crimea. It was a lovely afternoon as we sailed
from the Golden Horn through the Bosphorus out




76              DIFFICULTIES.
to the Black Sea, and thence two days upon its
stormy waters to Balaklava, the fine little harbor
for English shipping and stores for the army of
the East. I took a hundred Bibles and Testaments with me, and on my arrival was received
by Mr. Matheson, agent of the Soldier's Friend
Society, who gave me a cordial welcome, and remarked that my visit there at the present time
was most providential, and I could have brought
nothing more acceptable than Bibles. He said,
however, there was great opposition on the part
of the chief chaplain to any religious effort in behalf of the soldiers. He himself had been forbidden the camp by this authority, and whatever he
was able to accomplish must be done in the most
clandestine manner possible. And as I accompanied him in his benevolent work, I soon found it
was but too true. He seemed afraid to let it be
known that he had tracts or religious books. He
kept them concealed under his coat and in his
pockets, and as he met the soldiers singly or in
little companies off duty, he would secretly slip a
tract or religious book into their hands for them to
carry to their tents and read. Yet I was glad to
notice how thankfully all received them at his
hands.' bon't you see,' said he,'how guarded
I must be not to attract attention from the officers
or chaplains in my work, or I would be immediately expelled from the field; yet I am daily dis



THE CHAPLAIN.             77
tributing my hiundreds of tracts, and they are
doing their good work in the army and navy.' I
asked if it were not possible for me to obtain permission from the officers for the distribution of the
Bible among the troops.'There is not the least
possibility of it,' said he.'I would not advise
you to call upon them for that purpose, it will
only excite their opposition.'
"I then called upon Rev. Mr. Hayward, the
chaplain of the royal forces at Balaklava. He received me very kindly, and said that Bibles were
much needed by the soldiers, but to how great an
extent he knew not. He had received a small
supply from England, and had only given them
sparingly, and thought many more might be
wanted. I found him to be a man of excellent
Christian spirit, denying himself the ordinary
comforts and enjoyments of life,'and laboring
night and day for the spiritual welfare of the suffering and dying soldiers. And it was delightful
to see how kindly these rough soldiers received
his visits, and listened to the words of love and
Christian admonition he addressed them.  He
seemed fully imbued with the spirit of our Savior,' who went about doing good.' Yet when I proposed, in accompanying him on his visit, to give
a few Bibles and Testaments to those who desired
them, he replied at once,'It is contrary to general orders, and I would not dare give my consent.'
7*




78          DISTRIBUTING BIBLES.
I then asked if it were not possible to obtain such
authority from the commander-in-chief. He said,' You may make the effort, but I am quite sure
you will not succeed. I should be right glad if
it were so.' Notwithstanding, I set out next
morning early for headquarters at the camp, four
miles distant, putting a few Testaments in my
pocket for distribution by the way. As we were
trudging along through the mud half-knee deep
(it is impossible to conceive the state of the roads
which the heavy rains and artillery wagons have
made), I saw the wife of a soldier, in the midst
of the din and confusion of the scene, stopping to
rest by the wayside, and her interesting countenance attracted my attention. I stepped forward,
spoke a pleasant word to her, and asked her if she
had a Bible or Testament in her tent.'Oh, no,'
said she,'we have just come from Varna, and if
you could give me one I should be very thankful;' and an old soldier coming up, said,'If you
could give me one, too, sir, I would think very
much of it. I belong to Captain Frazer's battery,
and we have no Bibles there.' So I gave them each
one, and went on my way rejoicing. In two hours
we reached the headquarters of Lord Raglan. Here
I called upon General Estcourt, his principal secretary, and stated the object of my visit, in the
name of the American Bible Society, to obtain
permission to supply the soldiers of the army with




LORD RAGLAN.              79
Bibles and Testaments. He received me very
kindly, and said he would at once present the subject to Lord Raglan, who would undoubtedly
grant my request.
"I then proceded to'headquarters' of the
French General, Canrobert, for a like purpose in
reference to the French troops, stating that the
Emperor had given such permission for the camp
at Boulogne, and in France Bibles were stamped
for general circulation by authority of government. His aide-de-camp kindly offered to take the
matter in charge, and send me the General's answer next morning. Subsequently I called upon
Lord Raglan in person. He gave me a very gracious reception, and invited me to dine with him
on the morrow, when he would have a written
communication prepared. Accordingly, the next
day I had the pleasure of dining with his Lordship and staff, and of receiving from his secretary
the following letter:
"'CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, Dec. 28, 1854.
"' SIR: I have this afternoon seen Lord Raglan,
and have communicated to him the desire of the
American Bible Society, and the purpose of your
visit to Balaklava at this time. I am directed by
his Lordship to express the thanks which are due
from the army to the.American Bible Society for
their benevolent intentions, and to say that his




80     GENERAL CANROBERT DECLINES.
Lordship can have no objection to the distribution
of Bibles to the soldiers of this army; quite the
contrary; but he thinks it desirable that it should
be intrusted to the chaplains of the army attached
to the different divisions, or at any rate, that it
may be done in concert with them, so that they
may be made acquainted with all that is done.
"  If it should happen that the Society should
wish to send a gentleman of their body to watch
the distribution of their bounty, I must request
that he will first call on me, bringing with him
the authority of the Society for acting in their
behalf.
" I have the honor to be, sir,
"'Your most obedient servant,
"'J. BUCKNALL ESTCOURT, A. J.
"'The Rev. C. N. Righter.'
" The Society understand, I hope, that the distribution of Bibles cannot be allowed to entail
any sort of ministration to the soldiers. I have
to add, that I received yesterday evening a note
from Major Clairmont, attached to the headquarters of the French army, and he begs me to say
that your views in respect to the French army
would be contrary to their rules, and therefore
that the General Canrobert must decline to give
his sanction to your request.
" His Lordship likewise remarked he was very




ENTERS ON THE WORK.          81
happy such a benevolent work was designed on
the part of the American Bible Society, and hoped
it would still further have an influence to promote
good feeling and Christian fellowship between
England and America. Whereupon I took my
leave, thanking his Lordship cordially for his kind
expressions and entertainment. I then proceeded
at once with the letter in hand (having'War,'
and'on Her Majesty's Service,' printed upon it
in large capitals) to the advance camp in front of
Sebastopol, there to ascertain whether the soldiers
really needed Bibles, and how they would receive
them. It was evening when I arrived. The cannonading from the town was unusually heavy
that night, and shot and shell were firing and
bursting on either side of us, though providentially none reached our camp. In the course
of our conversation, the officer who entertained
me remarked, he had lost his Bible that he
brought with him from England, and a good
lady at Constantinople had given him another,
which he valued very much. I then said, that
was the object of my visit, to learn if there were
not other officers and soldiers who also wished
the Bible. He did not doubt I would find many
such. Thus encouraged I set out by moonlight
to walk around our little cluster of tents, comprising one division only, while the whole encampment stretches fifteen miles along the hill



82        SOLDIERS ASKING BIBLES.
sides, and through the ravines around. In the
first tent I entered there were three soldiers, and
when I inquired if they were all supplied with
Bibles and Testaments, one poor fellow, lying on
the damp ground wrapped in his blanket, raising
himself up, said,'I would like very much to
have one, sir;' then the others expressed the
same desire; and as I gave them each a Testament they thanked me with heartfelt gratitude
for coming so far to give them the Word of Life;
and would not let me go without receiving some
gifts of nuts and almonds from them in return.
In the next tent I found three others, and one of
them shivering with the ague; and upon repeating the same question, he roused up, and said,' I
would like very much to have a Bible: I had
one when I left England, but I lost it at the battle of Alma; and since then I have had nothing
but a prayer-book, which I plundered from the
knapsack of a dead comrade at Inkerman.' I accordingly offered him a Bible, remarking that it
was our custom to sell to those who were able to
buy, and give freely to those who were not.'I
have money,' said he,' and would gladly pay for
it: I should value it the more. How much shall
I give?' I said,'Whatever you choose.' He
handed me at once 3s. 6d. sterling, or seven shillings in our money. I gave him back twentyfive cents, saying it was too much for a poor sol



A SOLDIER'S OFFERING.          83
dier to pay.' Oh, no,' said he,' keep it all. I
give it all as a free-will offering to the American
Bible Society.' I gave the others Testaments, and
as I left they pronounced many blessings on my
head, for bringing them the Word of God, saying,' the last thing they would throw away again
on their march would be the Bible.' In the next
tent I met with a like reception. One soldier
said he wished to have a Bible,'and,' said he,' I
rather think I will take two; for I am quite sure
my brother, who is out on duty in the trenches,
would like to have one also;' and he handed me
out 4s., or one dollar of our money, saying he
was very thankful to receive them for that; and
one, sitting beside him, politely took off his cap
to me, and said,'Now I can enjoy the Word of
God too; for though I cannot read myself, I can
hear it from this man, and it will do me as much
good as him. We have been in all the battles
together, and, thank God, we have both been preserved. But can you not come to-morrow night,
when the others will be in from the pickets? I
am sure they would all like to get Bibles of you.
Oh, sir, if we could only have the like of you
to come and see us in our tents, and speak a
kind word to us, how thankful we would be!'
I was pleased, too, to notice the respectfulness as
well as kindness with which they received me, a
stranger, bearing the Bible. I remarked,'The




84           STOCK EXHAUSTED.
medals voted by Parliament for those engaged at
Alma and Inkerman are coming soon.''Yes,'
said they,' and we will be glad to get them; but
we would rather have your Bibles.' I said,'Then
I hope you will read and treasure them, as the
Word of God which maketh us wise unto everlasting salvation.''Never fear that,' says one,' I have a sister at home, who sends me a good
tract every time she writes to me; and I have
read and kept them every one, and now I have
the Bible, which is better than all.' As my little
stock was thus so soon exhausted, I returned to
my tent, rejoiced that I had been privileged to
distribute Bibles and Testaments to those noble
soldiers in camp on the field of Inkerman, and
prayed that God would abundantly bless his
Word to their spiritual good.
"In the morning early, at the beating of the
morning drum, I hastened down to Balaklava,
where my good friends were delighted to hear of
my unexpected success, both with officers and
soldiers, and they heartily thanked God for it.'Rev. Mr. Hayward said at once he would take
1,000 Bibles and Testaments for distribution, and
would send us in return a part of his stated collection at the church service. Rev. Mr. Campbell also wished 600, and many more would be
required by the other chaplains. Mr. Matheson
also begged that he might be constituted agent




RUSSIAN PRISONERS.           85
for the work, as he regarded it even more important than distributing tracts, to circulate the Book
of God.'And,' said he to me,'we have the
Word; now we only want the Spirit; we must
have earnest prayer for that.'
" I then called upon the chief of police, for the
purpose of obtaining access to the Russian prisoners, and supplying them with the Bible. I found
the officer himself was out, but his deputy was
sitting behind the desk, and it seems he had received intimation that I was coming, for he asked
immediately,'What is it you wish, sir?  Is it
anything I can do as well? I rather think it is
something in the missionary line, isn't it?' I replied,' Yes; I wished to see the Russian prisoners, and give them the Bible, if they desired it.''Well,' said he,'I always like to help on the
good Cause, and will be glad to accompany you.'
" We accordingly took with us an interpreter,
and proceeded to the guard-house. The sentinels
on duty demanded our business. He stepped
forward and said,' We wish to see the Russian
prisoners. This man is a missionary: this is Mr.
Upton, and I am deputy-provost; and whatever
is done well, or whatever is done ill, I will be
answerable for it.' The sentinels immediately
stood aside, and we entered the guard-room.
Here were eleven prisoners, only one of whom
could read; and upon asking him if he would
8




86      RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
like to receive a new Testament, he expressed
great desire to have it, and when I gave it in his
hand he manifested much thankfulness, and said,
he would not only read it himself, but would also
read it aloud to the others that the Word of God
might be multiplied. The officer insisted upon it
that he must receive and value it as the Book of
Salvation, and he replied with many expressions
of gratitude for so precious a gift. And when I
thanked the officer for his kind assistance in the
matter,'Not at all,' said he,' these things do me
as much good as you.' And I am happy to add
that I have received the same generous aid, in
furtherance of my Bible efforts, from all the English officers in every department of the service.
I then obtained an order from the commissariat
for a return passage, and in two days reached
Constantinople, where I gave a full report of my
visit before the committee of the Auxiliary Bible
Society, which held its meeting on Tuesday last,
and so great was the interest manifested, that it
was at once voted that we jointly send a colporteur to labor in that important field. I have also
written to Paris, to gain permission from the Emperor for a like work of Bible distribution among
the French troops, which I doubt not will be
readily granted."




DEATH OF MRS. EVERETT.          87
"CONSTANTINOPLE, Jan. 4, 1855.
"This morning I have sent a small supply of
Bibles and Testaments to the chaplains at the
Crimea for immediate distribution, instructing
that they be sold, in each instance, where the
soldiers are willing to purchase, and only given
in special cases of need. I find Mr. Barker, agent
of the British and Foreign Bible Society here, a
most excellent and efficient man; with whom I
can entirely harmonize and co-operate in all my
Bible movements.
"Yesterday I received a letter from Dr. King,
at Athens, giving an account of the terrible
ravages of cholera there for the last two months,
and fully approving the wisdom of my decision
in coming directly to Constantinople, as besides
the great exposure of life, I could have accom-.plished absolutely  nothing there.  He adds,
moreover, that the work of issuing the modern
Greek New Testament has been delayed at least
two months by reason of the scourge. I deeply
regret to announce the sudden death of Mrs.
Everett of this mission, since I last wrote, cordially beloved by all who knew her-taken from
us in the midst of youth and active usefulness,
and leaving a bereaved husband and tender, sorrowing family to mourn her loss. Such are the
inscrutable ways of Providence to man. Yet we
bow submissively to his afflictive hand, and feel




88       DEATH OF MRS. EVERETT.
to say,'He doeth all things well;''The Lord
gave, and the Lord hath taken away, blessed be
the name of the Lord.'
" Most sincerely yours,
"in the bonds of the Bible,
" C. N. RIGHTER."




CHAPTER X.
BIBLE LABORS IN TURKEY.
MR. RIGHTER reached Constantinople, on his
return from the Crimea, on the last day of the
year 1854. Besides attending to the distribution
of the Scriptures in the hospitals and among the
various classes in the city and vicinity, he commenced an effort tb obtain a depository for Bibles
and other religious books, which was soon successful. In a letter to the American Bible Society,
dated April 19th, 1855, he speaks of the opening
and of the encouragements to the circulation of
the Scriptures as follows:
" The principal feature of interest in connexion
with the Bible cause at Constantinople, during
the present month, is the opening of our new depository to the public, for the sale of Bibles in
various languages, in Pera, the Frank quarter of
the city. We have obtained a large magazine in
the main street, and erected a sign over the door
with'Bible and Religious Book Depository' in
large capitals upon it, and suspended another in
8*




90              DEPOSITORY.
front with five different languages, English,
French, German, Turkish, and Greek, upon the
two sides; and placed the open Bible in various
tongues in the windows, announcing to the multitude of every nation, who throng this crowded
street, that'here each in his own language can
buy the Bible.'  And it is most interesting to
notice them stopping to read a moment in passing,
and then coming in to buy the Word of God. A
few days since four Bulgarians came and purchased the Psalms in Russian; then came a Jew
and bought a Spanish Bible, and another the Old
Testament in Hebrew; then an Italian called for
the Bible, and a Greek, and Armenian, and German, and several French officers also wished for
Bibles; and all freely gave their money in exchange for the Book of Life. We have likewise
included other religious books, and connected a
small reading-room with the establishment, in
order to bring more in contact with the Scriptures, and thereby increase their sale; and this
has operated thus far most successfully.
" The whole is under the direction of a committee, of which Count de Zuylon Van Neyvelt, the
Ambassador of Holland, is president, a man of
most earnest and excellent Christian spirit.
"We have received a letter from the British
and Foreign Bible Society, expressing their willingness to pay a reasonable proportion of the ex



TURKS INQUIRING.             91
penses of the depository for the sale of their
books, and the committee have voted that they
be requested to grant the sum of ~50, as their
proportion of the expense of the institution for
the present year. I have already written to the
American Bible Society upon the subject. Thus
a new and most important agency is established
for the spread of the Bible in this great metropolis,
and incidentally to the various cities and towns
of the Ottoman empire."
In the same letter he makes mention of the remarkable spirit of inquiry after the Word which
had sprung up among the Turks:
" In my last two letters I have spoken of the
remarkable interest the Turks are beginning to
manifest in the Bible. This is increasing. Three
Turks recently came to the depository at Stamboul, and bought each a Bible, saying that'they
regarded it as a treasure above price;' and two
others, upon receiving the Bible, kissed it devoutly, and pressed it to their bosom, to express
their love for it as the only true revelation from
God, and opening to them the only true way of
salvation. And another, as he bought the Bible,
remarked that,' it was a very excellent book, but
it came from the Turks.' They still persist in
believing that nothing good can come from the




92         ENGLISH AMBASSADOR.
Christians. Said he,' Many hundred years ago,
when we conquered the city, we found this book
here in one of the magazines, and we did not
value it very much. A short time afterwards an
English traveller came along, and we sold it to
him for a trifle. He took it home, and translated
it into English. And this is the same Bible in
Turkish, which you Christians have brought to
us. It is our book, and we prize it highly.'
"Also another Turk has, of his own accord,
proposed to open a shop for the sale of Turkish
Bibles and Testaments in the midst of the other
bazaars of the city, which would attract the attention of all. This is surely very wonderful, when
we remember that, according to the Mohammedan
law, for a Mussulman to receive the Bible and
become a Christian, is still punishable with death,
which penalty has been executed within the last
year at Adrianople, only three days' distant from
the capital.
" A few days since I called upon Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, English Ambassador at the
Sublime Porte, who has always been the firm
friend of the Bible Cause and Protestantism in
the East, and expressed to him the acknowledgments of our Society for the aid his protection
and influence have always afforded us in publishing and distributing the Bible in the Ottoman
empire. He received me very kindly, and re



AN AGED TURK.              93
plied:'Our cause and interest are the same.
We are always glad to protect Americans and
American missionaries where our consular authority extends, and yours does not. The American missionaries are most excellent men.' Said
he,'To what church do you belong?' I said
that'I was a Presbyterian, but that our Society
embraced  all evangelical denominations.''I
wish,' said he,'that we could all adopt the Apostles''creed,' and have no further divisions into
churches and sects.' I replied,' That was precisely the creed and spirit of the American Bible
Society.' "
Under a later date he writes:
"The Turks still continue to manifest a remarkable interest in the Bible and New Testament, and are calling for these at our magazines.
As I was sitting in the depository a few days
since, my attention was attracted to an old Turk
with a long beard, who was reading very intently
in the open Bible through the window. He afterward came in and asked to have one showed
to him, saying,'Eyi, chok eyi' (Good, very good).
"Also a Softa, one of the readers of the Koran
at the mosques, came and begged that a Bible
might be given him, which was accordingly done,
with the prayer that his eyes might thereby be




94          ORDERS FOR BIBLES.
opened, and he be led to renounce the corrupt
system of the false prophet, and embrace the truth
as it is in Jesus."
The same inquiry came from various parts of
the Turkish empire, and from various tribes and
tongues. In a letter, dated in April, he says:
" The old depository in Stamboul has also sent
increased supplies to the interior. I will mention one order for Kharput in Asia Minor, where
Mr. Dunmore has recently been stationed.
182 Armenian Bibles and Testaments,
73 Psalms in Ancient and Modern Armenian,
32 Turkish Testaments and Psalms,
36 English Bibles and Testaments,
6 Italian Bibles,
18 Greek Bibles and Testaments,
12 Graeco-Turkish Bibles and Testaments,
6 Armeno-Turkish Bibles,
365 Scriptures in different languages, and
1,462 various religious books, making together
1,828 volumes.  Similar orders have likewise
been received from Trebizond, Erzroom, Marsovan, and Tocat; all of which proves that the
Word of God is beginning to run very swiftly
through this land."
Under date of May 22 he writes:




TURKISH GOVERNOR.            95
"I have been attending the annual meeting of
the Armenian Mission at Constantinople, during
the last week, for the purpose of becoming acquainted with the missionaries from the interior
and enlisting their interest in the Bible Cause.
They report an increased demand for the Scriptures at their various stations, and many interesting incidents of the great influence in some instances of even a'single Bible or Testament in
their fields of labor. I will mention one from the
report of Rev. Mr. Clark, of Arabkir, respecting
one of the stations in his field.
"' The Turkish Governor of the city obtained
from us a copy of the Scriptures, which he is said
to read openly, and discuss its truths with Turks,
Koords, and Armenians. And his banker, an
Armenian, the teacher of the Armenian school,
and some others petitioned us some time since to
establish a regular Protestant service on the Sabbath.
"'Light has also spread in the villages around
and in the region beyond, among the wild Koords
of the mountains. A copy of the New Testament which found its way into these wilds some
four or five years since, having fallen into the
hands of a Koordish chief, he has made it the
law of his tribe. All matters are tried by the
rules of the Gospel. Not only this, they seem to
have received the Word in its spirit. They be



96              RUZZEL-BASH.
lieve in Christ; have a kind of church organization, and celebrate the Lord's Supper in commemoration of his sufferings and death.'
" Mr. Clark also says:'There is a large population in our field of Turks, called Ruzzel-bash.
They seem to be a distinct party or tribe, and constitute the majority of Mussulmans in all this region. They are all ready to receive the Gospel;
they believe in Christ; they observe not the great
fast of the Mohammedans, neither do they use
their forms of prayer, or practise their various
washings.  They pray extempore; they meet together once a year, make bread, and eat it, and
say this is for Christ.
"'Two copies of the New Testament in Turkish,
not long since, were carried to one of their villages. They were eagerly read and listened to.
The villagers were amazed at the wonderful
truths, and many joyfully received them. At
length the villagers became divided among themselves, and many separated from their Mollah,
and declared they would receive the truth at all
hazards. And these men have already been subjected to much persecution for the Gospel's sake,
one of them at the same time being the chief man
of the village.
"' In another village, eight hours from Arabkir,
a Ruzzel-bash has a Testament which he reads
and preaches to his people; and he also is suffer



BIBLES FOR TURKS.            97
ing much persecution. He.is a Turk of some influence.' It is the Lord's doing, and it is marvellous in our eyes."'
" Thus are the Bible and the Gospel spreading
among the Turks throughout the empire.
"We have received the following order for
Scriptures from the Jewish station at Salonica:
100 Hebrew Bibles, 25 Spanish Bibles, 100 Hebrew Psalms, 100 Hebrew Pentateuch; indicating
that a good work is also springing up amongst
the Jews. And from Adrianople comes a call
for 25 Turkish Testaments, and 80 Hebrew
Psalms.  May the Lord yet more abundantly
bless His Word at all these stations, and in all
these lands."
Some extracts are made from his correspondence, showing what an inviting field the camps
and hospitals of the allied nations at Constantinople presented for the distribution of the Scriptures and how readily it was occupied.' 1,176 Bibles and Testaments have been sent to
the English army in the Crimea. Lady Canning
has generously purchased 200 Bibles and 500 Testaments, to be distributed among the British soldiers and sailors in the hospitals at Constantinople.
Seventeen Russian prisoners have been supplied
with Testaments. The visits of our colporteur were
9




98            FRENCH SOLDIERS.
prevented for a time by authority of a sub-official
who had charge of the prisoners; but he applied
at once to Lord William  Paulet, commander-inchief of the forces of this station, and received
the following order:
"' SCUTARI, March 31, 1855.
"' Mr. William Sellers has permission to have
access to the Russian prisoners of war confined at
the Turkish arsenal, for the purpose of supplying
them with books.
" T. W. PAULET,
"B. General Com'g Troops."'
The French soldiers seemed no less anxious
than the English to obtain the Scriptures. He
writes from Constantinople, May 22:
"The twenty thousand French soldiers encamped upon the heights above the Bosphorus, a few
miles from the city, have furnished an interesting
field for the distribution of the Scriptures during
the last month. We had just begun fully to obtain access to them, however, as they were all
ordered to the Crimea for the war; yet many
will carry their little Testaments not only in the
camp but also on the field of battle, and will find
these their only consolation at the hour of death.
" I visited the camp a few days since, in company with a son of the Rev. Mr. Schauffler, for




ARMENIAN SHOP.              99
the purpose of obtaining a general authorization
from the commander-in-chief, to distribute Bibles
and Testaments among the soldiers. On the way
we stopped at a shop of refreshments kept by a
Protestant Armenian, where a few Testaments had
previously been deposited, and inquired if he had
any remaining on hand.'Not one,' said he.'Soon as the men found that New Testaments
could be had here, they came and called earnestly
for them, and my little supply was gone almost
at once. I could distribute hundreds, if I gave
them to all who wished. A commanding officer
called here yesterday,' said he,'and asked where
these Testaments -came from.  I told him, a
benevolent society had sent them.' He replied,'Present my thanks to that society for so good a
work.'
"This store, however, was not within the lines,
and, according to camp regulation, the sentinels
will allow no one to pass without a written order
to that effect. And I wished a general permission
for distributing the Bible to the soldiers in their
tents, where a kind word might also be spoken
accompanying the Word of Scripture.
" We called at head-quarters, but unfortunately
found the General absent at Constantinople. On
our return through the camp, however, we gained
the following written permission from a dolonel,
stamped with his seal, freely to enter the lines of




100           COLONEL'S ORDER.
his regiment:'32d Regiment of Infantry. It is
permitted to a colporteur, by the present permission, to circulate freely in the camp of the regiment, to bring there works for the use of the soldiers.'
" Works were of course interpreted to mean
Scriptures, and we immediately sent a large supply
of Testaments to his soldiers, who received them
most gladly. While we were gone, two soldiers
came from  the hospital to the house of Mr.
Schauffler, and begged for medicine and Testaments. One had previously received a Testament
from there, and now he had brought his sick
friend for one also; and as Mr. S. gave it to him,
he said, with tears in his eyes,' This is beyond
all price to me. It will go with me till I die.'
As there was yet one day before the troops were
to embark, and the permission to visit one regiment susceptible of rather a general interpretation, we sent two colporteurs to enter the camp
wherever this would admit them; and they thus
distributed 300 Testaments to the soldiers, who
manifested the greatest thankfulness at receiving
them. Also, at the point of embarkation, on the
following day, another was stationed to place in
the hands of all whom he could reach at this last
moment, the Word of Life, the way of everlasting salvation. Likewise, as they came from camp
to Pera, a gratuitous supply was furnished them




LITTLE DISTRIBUTORS..       101
from our depository; and those who received Tes
taments sent their friends for the same bon ivre,
and when others went to Bebek, there they received them by the roadside from the hands of
Mr. Hamlin's little daughters, replying, with much
gratitude,'Merci, Mademoiselle, merci beaucoup, c'est bon"-Thank you, Miss, thank you
much, it is good.
"More than a thousand Testaments have by
these means, within a few days, been distributed
to the troops. Thus, during their short encampment here, much good seed has been sown amongst
them which we trust will not fail to spring up and
bring forth fruit an hundredfold in the hearts of
these poor soldiers, hurried away to die in a foreign land upon the field of battle. And we hope
to gain still greater facilities for supplying with
the same divine treasure the twenty-five thousand
other troops now on their way from France to
occupy this camp."
The seed thus sown will produce its fruit.
Many of these soldiers died before leaving the
Crimea, but many returned to France, bringing
the Bible with them.
9*




CHAPTER XI.
LETTERS HOME.
"CRIMEA, Dec. 25th, 1854.
"MY DEAR FATHER: I wish you'merry,
merry Christmas,' from the shores of the Black
Sea. Here I am at the seat and centre of war,
within the roar of the enemy's cannon, and in the
midst of all the martial excitement and display of
the camp, yet my thoughts and remembrance today fondly turn to those I love in the far off
Western land. I am  reminded of the many
happy Christmas days I have spent at home,
around our own fireside, and in our little family
circle; I am reminded of the last we enjoyed
together, when we were all gathered home and
mingled in delightful social intercourse, my mind
suddenly runs back through all the past years.
I remember a father's kindness, tenderness and
love, ever ready to grant my every wish and supply my every want; all this comes gushing up
in mind to-day, and from the fulness of my heart
I thank you for it all. None but he that feels it
knows the gladness of such memories to a
stranger in a strange land.




CHRISTMAS FARE.            103
"But you will ask how I am spending Christmas here. First, we have excellent accommodations on board a transport ship in the harbor of
Balaklava, the place of landing English stores
for the army. We have roast goose, roast turkey,
roast beef, and pork, for dinner, and right good
cheer at the social table. As this is the first day
(except Sabbath) that we have spent in the Crimea, we go up to Captain Frazer's battery upon
the heights, above the town, to have a view of
the camp-and it is indeed a brilliant scene.
There are the Highland tents upon the highest
hill; then a company of French Zouaves; then
the Turks and English, and so on, for miles
through the valleys; and along the hill-sides
stretches the encampment, far as the eye can
reach. At intervals the batteries are placed with
sentinels to guard them, and a strong line of entrenchments the entire distance; and far in front
are stationed the pickets on horseback, to give
the alarm at the first approach of the enemy;
just opposite, too, we see the Russian outposts,
and they themselves, fifty thousand strong, are a
few rods behind the hill. And here are foraging
parties coming across the plain, French, Turks,
and English, infantry and cavalry, on foot and on
horseback, nobleman and commoner, prince and
peasant, officers and soldiers alike mounted on
horses, mules, donkeys, and dromedaries, driving




104           TO HIS MOTHER.
carts, ambulance, and artillery wagons, bringing
down the sick and marching up the new recruits;
meeting and passing, shouting and hurrying each
other forward; sticking fast in the mud and
again moving on, all to the sound of martial
music-fife, drum, and band.  This forms the
first picture, and gives us the first impression of
all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war.
But I must close. Farewell, dear Father.
" Your affectionate Son,
" CHESTER."
"CONSTANTINOPLE, Jan. 1, 1855.
" My DEAR MOTHER: I wish you a happy
New Year from the far East, my oriental home.
The skies are bright and sunny here, and the air
mild and genial, as I fondly trust they may be in
the distant West, where'the loved ones abide.'
I have much enjoyed the day; in our American
chapel we had a union meeting of Christians
of every denomination in the city-the Evangelical Alliance of Constantinople. It was to me a
delightful occasion, coming as I did directly from
the seat and sound of war, and all the marshaling
to arms and military excitement of the camp at
Sebastopol, to enjoy this scene of peace here,
where we met together in the name of the Prince
of Peace, to hold sweet communion and fellowship with our Saviour and our God, and sit




UNION MEETING.            105
together in heavenly places in Christ Jesus. It
was indeed good to be there, with our devoted
Missionary friends and excellent English Christians, forgetting the distinctions of church and
country, and becoming one in Christ Jesus our
Lord. I was called upon to address the meeting,
and though without preparation I felt strengthened in mind and spirit to give expression to the
emotions which the time and place inspired. It
seemed peculiarly appropriate to hold such a
meeting at the opening of a new year, when the
wheels of God's providence are rolling forward
with mighty power in the East, preparing the
way for the spread of the Bible, and preaching
the Gospel of the ends of the world. This calls
for renewed consecration to our Master's work at
the beginning of the year. Another voice, too,
spake to us in solemn tones. Just as the last
year was coming to its close, the hand of death
entered our little missionary circle, and suddenly
took from us one who was beloved by all who
knew her (Mrs. Everett), leaving a bereaved husband and tender sorrowing family to mourn her
loss. The little children only whisper her name,'Mamma's gone, mamma's gone to heaven!' Her
voice spake to us that day,'Be ye also ready, for
in such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man
cometh.' "




106              MEETINGS.
" CONSTANTINOPLE, Feb. 4th, 1855.
MY DEAR MOTHER: In my last I wrote you
of our Union meeting of English and American
residents here, on New Year's day, which we
all enjoyed so much in its spirit and influence.
The next day was a full meeting of our Bible
committee, which was of equal, if not greater
interest to me. The next week there was also a
meeting of all the Evangelical of the city, which
I enjoyed very much; a Prussian presided, and
the services were conducted in French, but there
was one Lord and the same Spirit. There, too,
we have such excellent preaching on the Sabbath
in our American chapel, from all the good missionaries in their turn. They have kindly included me among their number, and I enjoy all,
both the preaching and hearing, more than ever
before. They are not only good men, but men
of rare talent and ability at this station; and it is
a delight and honor to be associated with them,
and labor side by side with them in the same
great cause. I likewise much enjoy our social
family and singing meetings; they remind me of
those we occasionally had at home, which linger
still in mind with pleasantest memory. What is
more delightful than the sound of familiar homelike music in a strange land?
" But I have just come from a meeting which
has suggested to me this train of thought. It is




TO HIS FATHER.             107
the Sabbath, a mild and lovely day, and we have
heard to-day a discourse on the occasion of the
recent death of one of our missionary circle, the
Rev. N. Benjamin. The text selected was from
John xiv. 2, 3.'In my Father's house are many
mansions, if it were not so I would have told
you.  I go to prepare a place for you,' &c., and
the subject was the preparation of the mansion for
the disciple, and the disciple for the mansion.
Both were done by Christ and through Christ.
He was all, and in all, and above all, God blessed
for ever.  The preacher vividly portrayed the
glory of the divinely-fitted mansion, and the still
greater glory of the entrance of the redeemed
soul within it, clothed with the righteousness and
immortality of Christ.  It was indeed a scene
which every Christian should anticipate with
rapture, and long to enjoy, desiring rather to
depart and be with Christ, which is far better."
"CONSTANTINOPLE, April 29th, 1855.
"MY DEAR FATHER: It is the Sabbath, and
my thoughts from this Moslem land are turned
toward home, and those I love across the waters.
Mingled with  thoughts of home are likewise
those of heaven, our home above, where I trust
redeemed, purified, sanctified, glorified, in the
image of Christ, we shall all meet in our Father's
house, around his throne, where sin, sorrow, and




108         THOUGHTS OF HOME.
sighing never enter, and parting shall be known
no more for ever. This thought alone can sustain and cheer the soul, as separated from each
other in distant lands we labor on, each in our
own sphere, doing our appointed work, till our
divine Master call us home, having overcome,' to sit down with Him on his throne, even as He
also overcame, and is set down with his Father
on his throne.'
" My meditations were divided thus as I sat
down to write you this afternoon, and also such
thoughts and questions as these passed through
my mind. Winter has passed, and gladsome
spring has come-the season of life, and bloom,
and beauty. How have father and mother enjoyed the winter? how are they at this returning spring? True, I have their open portraits
before me, with lineaments and feature unchanged
since I left (which I value above price); yet these
are not sufficient to satisfy the fulness of the
heart. I would know more. Have they grown
old at all since I have gone? have the infirmities of age begun to gather upon them?  Oh,
that I could visit home but for one short hour, to
see and speak a word with each, and feel assured
that all were well as when I left; I could then
return and press forward in earnest duty, with a
firmer step and warmer heart. But why should
I distrust? Do I not daily commend them all to




THOUGHTS OF HOME.          109
the guardian care and loving kindness of Him
who is Omnipotent and Omnipresent, who doeth
all things well, and whose tender mercies are
over all his works.
*    *    *    *    *    *    *    *    *
10




CHAPTER  XII.
VISIT TO A RUINED CITY.
THE following interesting account of a ruined
city was sent to the " New York Observer" with
which he corresponded from the East.
"BROOSA, June 27th, 1855.
"MESSRS. EDITORS: In company with the
Rev. Dr. Hamlin, I came yesterday to visit
Broosa, the scene of the recent earthquake in the
Orient.  We left Constantinople in the early
morning, on board of a Turkish steamer, and
sailed out upon the Sea of Marmora, past the
Princes Isles, and coasting along the shores of
Asia, crowned with cypresses, myrtles, and pines,
in six hours we came to Moudania, a small Greek
town on the Gulf of Nicea. Here we landed, and
took horses for a ride of six hours more in the
interior. Our horses were equipped in the oriental style. Mine was mounted with a saddle of
blue cloth, and wore a band of colored-beads, and
cloth worked with sea-shells about his neck, and
dangling brass ornaments upon his bridle.




PASTORAL SCENES.           111
"Upon leaving the town, we rode a short distance along the water-side, and then through the
rich vineyards and olive groves of the country.
Ascending the hill, we had a lovely view of the
valley before us, covered with green pasturage,
and fields of ripened grain ready for the sickle.
Wild flowers, the woodbine, blue bell, and hollyhock, were in bloom beside our path, and the hum
of locusts, and singing of birds filled the air with
music. We crossed a small ravine, and came to
another summit that commanded a still more extended and picturesque view. We looked over
the whole plain of Broosa, twenty miles in length,
cultivated with wheat fields, the olive, mulberry,
and the grape. The river Ulfar wound its way
in the centre, and herds of cattle and flocks of
sheep were feeding by the river side. Shepherds
were attending these, and the reapers were in the
fields, gathering their grain.  In the distance'the minareted city' rose before us on the mountain slope, and Mount Olympus towered above,
piercing the clouds: the whole combining the
grand and beautiful with most impressive effect.
Descending upon the plain, we forded the river,
and refreshed ourselves at a small caffee station
under two large oak trees. It was most pleasant
to receive the good-natured salutations of the
Turks,-Rhosh gueldiniz, safa gueldiniz, chelibi:'You are welcome, very welcome, gentlemen,'



112            EARTHQUAKE,
at each stopping-place, and by the roadside as we
passed, indicating a remarkably favorable change
of feeling toward the giaours in these latter days.
"As we proceeded on our way, suddenly a
dark cloud rose from behind Mount Olympus, and
came advancing toward the plain. The lightning
flashed from it, and the thunder rolled fearfully
down the mountain side. It drew near, and the
rain and hail came like falling columns upon us.
Our horses whirled round and trembled with fear,
and we knew not but another earthquake was just
at hand, so great was the commotion of the elements. Yet the scene was one of the sublimest
in nature, filling the mind with awe. The storm
continued only a few minutes, and sweet indeed
was the sunshine,'when'twas past.' It diffused,
too, a delightful coolness in the air, and cleansed
and purified the face of the landscape. The approach to Broosa, under these circumstances, was
exceedingly beautiful, as the clear sunlight was
gilding the shattered minarets, domes, and towers,
and painting the rainbow upon the dark background of cloud that passed behind the city.
" We began to see the effects of the earthquake
immediately upon entering the suburbs.  The
plaster was shaken from the sides of the houses,
the tiles and timbers from the roofs, the walls
were cracked.  Some buildings were entirely
thrown down in a mass, the domes of the mosques




ITS EFFECTS.             113
were crushed in, the tops of the minarets broken
off, and piles of stone and rubbish filled the
streets.  Here, huge boulders came tumbling
down the mountain, and crushed everything before them, and a little beyond, we passed by the
ruins of a large silk factory, where forty girls
were buried in the fall, and some of them crushed
instantly to death by one of these large masses of
rock rolling through the building, though others
lived for several hours, screaming for help. Their
bodies are still lying under the heaps of rubbish.
The terrified inhabitants fled from the earthquake
at once upon the plain, but after the first shocks
had passed, returned to the city, and gathered
materials to build huts and tents for safety, entirely deserting their shattered houses. They had
just begun to return and repair them, however,
when a second earthquake came upon them, more
destructive than the first, laying waste the city,
and forcing them to flee again for temporary protection to their huts and tents. They have now
begun to return a second time and prop up their
houses, and build little wooden stalls for trading,
and some are erecting new residences. The silk
factories, most of which were but slightly injured,
have commenced operation, and quite a new spirit
of activity and enterprise is springing up in the
city. Yet they all live in constant dread of another shock without a moment's warning.




114             HOSPITALITY.
" It was sad indeed, as we wound through the
streets, to see such marks of ruin and desolation
on every hand. We arrived at the house of a
Protestant Armenian, just as the sun was setting
and flooding the sky with golden glory. How
delightful it is to receive the cordial welcome of
a friend in a strange land, and that too from the
hand of a stranger, when a spirit of Christian love
fills the heart.                            *
" We came drenched with wet and exhausted
by our journey. They at once provided us with
dry clothing, a neat room, and a mangal of coals
in the centre; sent a servant with a basin of warm
water to wash and rub our feet, as is the oriental
custom; gave us Armenian cloaks lined with fur,
to prevent our taking cold by the exposure; prepared us an excellent supper from the well-cooked
dishes of the country; brought pipes and tobacco
for a soothing influence, and then sat down and
talked, till a late hour in the evening, of the Gospel
and the love of Christ. I remarked:
"'This was far greater kindness than I ever
expected from a stranger, far in the interior of
Turkey.'
"'Oh,' said they,'when our benefactors from
America come to visit us, we love to express to
them the fulness of our gratitude for sending us
the Bible and the Gospel of salvation. We pray
you to receive it all as coming from our heart.'




MOSQUE OF BAJAZID.           115
"I said to them,'It seemed like Bunyan's Pilgrim at the palace called Beautiful, who was received and entertained simply because his name
was Christian.'
" We too slept in'the chamber of Peace,' and
awoke to sing hymns of praise and thanksgiving
to our Lord and Saviour.
"In the morning, after accomplishing my official business, I set out to explore the ruins of
the city. First I visited several of the old khans
or large public buildings, with an open court in
the centre, let to merchants and travellers. These
were all filled with ruins, so that it was quite impossible to occupy them. Then I came to the
Mosque of Sultan Bajazid, the largest in the empire. Its principal walls are still standing. I
readily obtained admission by giving a backshish
to the keeper of the keys.  The architectural
effect of the immense columns, and the twentyfour domes supporting the roof, and the sense of
vastness within, surpasses any of the mosques I
have visited at Constantinople. It is adorned
with inscriptions in golden letters from the Koran
on the walls, and the high altar is elaborately
wrought and gilded in the arabesque style. A
fountain is still playing in the centre, though the
domes are so much shattered and crushed, that it
is not used for Moslem worship. Through some
I could see the clouds passing, and the clear blue




116      VIEW FROM THE MINARET.
sky above. It seemed dangerous to remain long,
as the least agitation would have precipitated the
broken cornices and columns upon us. I therefore hastened out, when an old Turk stepped up
to me at the door, and asked with an air of great
satisfaction:
"'Well, Chelibi, have you any such great
buildings as this in your country, where you
came from?'
"I said,'Yes, this was very grand, but the
Franks had Cathedrals much more splendid.'
"At which he expressed much surprise and
said, Allah mashallah,'God is merciful,' and
walked away.
" I then with much difficulty gained permission
to ascend one of the minarets and take a view of
the city, perhaps the first time this was ever granted to a European. The Moslems guard their minatets with special care, and allow none but Muezzims, or criers to prayer, to climb them, and these
are often selected from among the blind, lest they
should see any of their women unveiled as they
walk out into the private gardens. The panorama
around was beautiful beyond description. Mount
Olympus towered above in rugged grandeur;
Broosa, with its khans and mosques, its fountains,
factories, and palaces, partly in ruins, partly active
with life, stretched along the mountain side; and
beyond lay the lovely plain, planted with the mul



MOSQUE OF ORKIHAN..          117
berry, walnut, and oak, and cultivated with fruitful vineyards and fields of corn and wheat, rejoicing in luxuriant beauty; while the whole, like
an amphitheatre, was encircled by a chain of hills,
which circumscribed and fixed limits to the view
that the mind might fully comprehend and enjoy
the scene.
" Descending thence we took a cavass, and visited the mosque of the celebrated Sultan Orkhan,
who conquered Broosa iir 1326. It is splendidly
built of white marble, and ornamented with much
carving on the outside walls.  The interior is
decorated with Persian porcelain of variegated
colors, and the Mirah curiously wrought in antique style. At a side altar are two large copies
of the Koran in golden letters, executed with
much artistic effect. We also entered the Salamlik, or Sultan's station for performing prayers,
apart from and above the rest. This was richly
finished with porcelain and gold, and beside it
was another closely latticed, for the Sultana to
join in her prayers at the same time; the first of
the kind I have seen in any mosque. He must
have had a higher regard for the sex than the
Turks generally. The whole is so shattered by
the earthquake as to be rendered unfit for use.
The same is also true of all the three hundred and
sixty-five mosques of the city; not one of them is
entered by Mussulmen for prayer; a severe blow,




118                TOMBS.
indeed, to their religion. They regard their places
of worship with most devout reverence, resorting
to them five times a day to repeat their prayers.
And now the curse of Allah rests upon them.
"We then went to the tomb of the Sultan, a marble mausoleum, in which he and six of his family
are buried. It is situated in a large court filled
with shade and fruit trees, and built with much
magnificence, but it is also tottering upon its base,
and just ready to fall and bury them again deep
in the ruins. The great conqueror has selected a
lovely spot for his last resting-place,-at the base
of Mount Olympus, enshrined in sculptured marble, surrounded by wide-spreading shade trees,
and overlooking the charming plain of Broosa.
We then descended from this elevated point of
table land, and threading our way through the
dilapidated streets, came to Daoud Monastery,
once an ancient Greek church, but subsequently
converted into a mosque. In proof of which we
saw a cross of colored marble worked into one of
the columns, and another carved with the chisel
upon a capital. Here Osman, the founder of the
Ottoman empire, lies buried. The whole is one
mass of broken ruins.  The earthquake at this
point seems to have spent its greatest force. Solid
marbles and granites have been rent asunder by
the shock, like cords of tow, and thrown together
in confused heaps. Never before have I seen such




FACTORIES.               119
broken fragments.  Our cavass now gave us a
description of its effect. Said he:
"' There was first a deep, rumbling noise and
a loud explosion upwards, and then the whole
mountain and earth surged to and fro and trembled as if shaken by the wind. The shocks continued all night. The buildings were falling on
all sides, and the women and children shrieked,
and fled in every direction for safety. It was a
scene terrific beyond conception.'
"We then ascended to the castle hill, and took
a last view of the city and country around. This
point in front marks the track of the great rocks
that were precipitated from the mountain-side, and
spread desolation in their path to the plain; there
on the right the flames burst forth and laid waste
a whole district of the city, and we saw marks of
destruction on every hand, though much that was
beautiful still rose above the ruins. On the left
were several large silk factories, apparently quite
uninjured, and we descended through the old castle gate to visit one of these establishments..I
was much surprised to find it worked entirely by
steam and machinery, attended by factory girls,
well dressed, and exhibiting all the enterprise and
activity of a Lowell or Lawrence mill. We learned
there were twenty-four factories in the city, and
only two or three were destroyed by the earthquake. The remainder are now in active opera



120             DEPARTURE.
tion. Indeed, these and the silk-growing business, form the only dependence of the people.
"We then rode through the Olympian valley,
thickly overgrown with vines, and watered by a
mountain stream, and around the walls of Castle
Hill, built in the massive Byzantine style, and
came to an old burial-ground deeply shaded with
cypresses and venerable trees. The tombs were
ornamented with large turbans and swords, and
some with the round crowned hats of Dervishes,
telling both of the warlike and fanatical spirit of
those olden times. Passing this, and winding
through the ruined streets, we at length arrived
at the house of our Protestant friend, Baron
Bedros.  After an excellent dinner in native
style, I bid the family a friendly farewell, and received also their cordial salaams at parting, and
then set out on my return journey, accompanied
only by a Surigi, or Turkish guide, to lead the
way. We came down directly upon the plain,
and passed along a well-shaded road, through
thousands of acres of mulberry trees, and fields
of corn and wheat, and pasturage for cattle. At
length we reached a village entirely destroyed by
the earthquake and deserted by its inhabitants.
A large number of storks, however, had taken
possession, and built their nests among the ruins.
Here I am joined by a Turk as travelling companion, and we gallop together on our way. The




TURKS SMOKING.             121
road is well made and in sections paved or macadamised, but there are no bridges, and we must
ford all the streams, some of which are deep and
dangerous. There are caffee stations every few
miles, at which it is the custom of the country to
stop and refresh with coffee and chibouques. But
this was not sufficient for my Turkish friend. He
carried his long pipe with him, and filled it, and
smoked on horseback as we rode along, which
seemed to me decidedly the pursuit of pleasure
under difficulties.  We climbed up the hill-side
and enjoyed a combined view of the mountain,
city, and plain on the one side, and a valley of
vineyards, olive groves and fig trees stretching to
the sea on the other, while the clear sunlight was
resting on the whole landscape, like a picture before us. It was a scene of beauty I shall long
remember.  The old Turk exclaimed,'Guzel
tchok, guzel chelibi,''Pretty, very pretty, sir!'
and drew a long puff from his pipe with peculiar
delight that this was the land of the Moslems.
Descending thence along a winding road, in two
hours we reached Gimleck, and set sail on board
the Turkish steamer again for Constantinople.
"Sincerely yours,
"C. N. R."
II




CHAPTER XIII.
VISIT TO GREECE.
IT was the intention of Mr. Righter on leaving
the United States to visit Greece, on his way to
the East, for the purpose of ascertaining the condition of that country in respect to the Bible, and
to prepare the way for its supply. But, as has
been already mentioned, on reaching Malta, he
determined to defer his visit on account of the
prevalence of the cholera at Athens, and because
he had acquired much of the information that he
desired. This visit he made the next fall, leaving
Constantinople for Athens, October 1, 1855.
In a letter to the Secretary of the American
Bible Society, he gives the following account of
his voyage and his visit at Athens:
"ATHENS, October 20, 1855.
"MY DEAR FRIEND:-Feeling that I had too
long neglected Greece, in consequence of the superior importance of Constantinople as a centre of
operations, I determined on the 1st of October
to make a short visit to Athens, in behalf of the




AT SMYRNA.               123
Bible cause. On my way I called at Smyrna,
while our steamer was remaining a few hours in
port. I found the work there going forward with
increasing interest.  Three depots are established
for the sale and distribution of the Scriptures:
the mission depository in a large square opposite
the great mosque of the,city —they sell many
Arabic Bibles to caravans from the interior, and
have much demand for the Armeno-Turkish Testament: the depot of the Church Missionary
Society, under the direction of the Rev. Mr.
Walters, in the business part of the town-they
sell many Turkish, Modern Greek, and GracoTurkish Scriptures: and the depot of the British
and Foreign Bible Society, containing Bibles
and Testaments in all the languages of the East,
and used as a magazine for supplying the interior
stations. In addition to these agencies it is
thought that a colporteur is much needed to supply the sailors in the port, and to sell and distribute the Scriptures from house to house.
"A private gentleman, Mr. Richard Van Lennep,
has recently had printed 1,000 copies of the Gospel of John, in Greek with Roman characters, for
the benefit of the islanders who speak the Greek,
but do not understand the Greek letters. More
than 200 of these have already been circulated at
his own expense. I also learned an interesting
incident with regard to the Bible, at ancient




124             THYATIRA.
Thyatira, one of the seven churches of Asia,
where a new Evangelical church has lately been
organized. Considerable opposition was excited
against the Protestants on the part of some bigoted
Greeks, and they devised the following plan at
once to crush the infant church. They sent to
Smyrna, and bought a large Bible, and presented
it to a Turk, the chief man of the village, that he
might publicly condemn the book in which the
Protestants believed. He began to read in the
New Testament, and instead of finding anything
to condemn, pronounced it all good. He became
more and more interested, and invited a number
of Turks to listen to the reading of the Gospel.
All gave it their approbation, and the Christians
were triumphantly sustained. It is hoped that a
good work may spring up among the Turks there,
through the defeat of this wicked device of the
Evil One.
" Thence I proceeded on the voyage to Athens.
We were unfortunately detained six days in quarantine, at the Piraeus, as a case of cholera was
reported to have occurred at Smyrna, while our
steamer was lying in the harbor.
"Immediately after my arrival in the city I
called upon Dr. King, and had a full interview
with him in regard to the Athens edition of the
modern Greek Testament, and the prospects of
the Bible Cause in Greece. He informs me that




OPENINGS FOR THE BIBLE.         125
the edition is very well received, though the style
is somewhat elevated for the common people in
the country.
" Dr. King considers it a most favorable time,
at present, to make a new effort in distributing
the Bible among the Greeks. The bishops and
priests have lost their old prejudice against the
Scriptures, the government are entirely well disposed, and the people ready to receive the Word
of Life. He has a class of eight theological students, devoted, pious young men; four of whom
are anxious to spend their vacation as colporteurs,
travelling in Macedonia, Thessaly, and Albania,
to sell and distribute the Bible. This seemed to
me a most excellent enterprise, but I did not feel
authorized to warrant the expense of three or four
hundred dollars, without first referring the matter to our Committee at New York. Also, the
doctor is very desirous that a new Bible and Religious Book Depository be opened in the central
street of the city, on the plan of that at Constantinople, which would also be a centre of religious
influence and discussion. This likewise meets
with my cordial approbation, and I would at once
refer the question to our Board, whether they are
disposed to sustain their proportion of the expense
of such a depository at Athens. The whole expense of the establishment is estimated at $500
per year.
II*




126              DR. KING.
" I also visited the small d6pot which Dr. King
has under his charge, at his own house. He has
sold and distributed from thence during the last
year 368 Bibles and Testaments. I was quite
astonished at the number of Scriptures that have
been circulated in Greece, through Dr. King's instrumentality, since his residence in the country:
They amount to an average of three or four thousand each year, for a period of twenty-five years,
making between 75,000 and 100,000 copies, that
have thus gone forth through all the land, in
their mission of mercy and love.
"I also held a conference with the Rev. Dr.
Hill, in relation to the Bible interests. His views
agreed substantially with those of Dr. King, with
regard to the Athens edition of the New Testament, and the favorable prospects for the distribution of the Scriptures at present. He said he
knew that' five, at least, of the archbishops and
bishops of the Greek church were favorable to
the circulation of the Bible among their people,
and the government were quite ready to have
the Testament introduced and taught in all their
schools.'
" Dr. Hill kindly gave me an introduction to
the Director of Public Schools, who expressed an
earnest desire to have their schools supplied with
the New Testament. He stated that there were
550 government schools in Greece-400 for boys,




DR. HILL.              127
and 150 for girls, embracing 40,000 children;
and if we gave ten Testaments to each school,
they would consequently need 5,500 copies to
meet the demand. Dr. Hill, who was present, at
once offered to superintend the distribution of
whatever number I might choose to designate for
that purpose. I then called upon Mr. Nicholaides, the Agent of the British and Foreign Bible
Society at Athens, under whose direction the
new edition of the Testament was published. I
stated to him the arrangement I had previously
made with the officers of that society, in London,
that the books should be printed expressly for
us, and sold to us at cost price. He informed nme
that 5,000 had been published, and 2,000 were
already disposed of, so that 3,000 only remained
on hand. Of these, I have ordered that 1,000 be
placed in the government schools, and 300 in the
school under the direction of Mrs. Hill. He states
that a second edition of 5,000 copies can be published here, if desired, in three or four months.
"I was much interested in a visit I made to
Mrs. Hill's mission school. She has under her
charge between three and four hundred Greek
girls and children. They are regularly and thoroughly taught in the Scriptures. Indeed, I was
quite surprised at the promptness and entire accuracy of their answers to Bible questions. She
desired 400 New Testaments and 100 Bibles for




128             THE SCHOOLS.
her school, Dr. and Mrs. Hill have been engaged
in this mission for more than twenty years, and
have done a noble work in the religious education of the daughters of Greece. They are now
reaping the reward of their labors, in seeing their
pupils occupying positions of honor and usefulness in all the land. I also visited, in company
with Dr. Hill, the government schools of Athens,
for the purpose of ascertaining whether the Scriptures were taught, and if they desired a further
supply. The first we visited was a school for
boys, numbering 450, conducted on the Lancasterian principle. The New Testament, Evangelia,
is introduced into the regular course of instruction, and taught morning and evening. I said
to the principal, that' we in America were much
interested in the Greeks, especially in the schools
of Greece, and were desirous to furnish them with
the Bible as the basis of all true education.'
"' I am well aware of this,' said he;' the Americans have always done us good, and we feel
particularly grateful to you for the Bible.' I was
much pleased with the order and efficiency of
their system, and the. bright, intelligent countenances of the boys. He requested me to send
him  twenty-five or thirty New Testaments for
his school.
" Then we made a visit to a government school
for girls, situated in the ancient Agora, where St.




UNIVERSITY.             129
Paul preached. This numbered 350, under the
superintendence of an excellent lady, and was
most admirably conducted. It was truly cheering to know that they were all instructed in the
Word of God, and taught the way of everlasting
life. One of the teachers remarked to me that' their Scriptures were quite exhausted, and they
much needed a new supply.'
" We then visited the Normal School for the
education of teachers. The instruction here is
given by lectures from professors, and one lecture a week is devoted to the Bible. One of the
professors spoke English very well, and said to
me:' You must be very much encouraged by
your visit. The Scriptures now have free circulation in Greece.  All that we need is a full
supply.'
" The university, also, which numbers 650 students, has a course of lectures in Biblical theology. Indeed, a far more liberal and evangelical spirit now prevails in Greece, and it seems a
most favorable moment to commence new operations for placing the Scriptures in their schools,
and distributing them throughout the country.
This is the only hope for the future of this ancient classic land. I was much encouraged by
the kind and friendly manner in which I was received by all in behalf of the Bible Cause.
"Having thus fully accomplished the object of




130          SABBATH AT ATHENS.
my visit, I determined at once to return again to
Constantinople.
" Most sincerely your friend and brother,
"C. N. RIGHTER."
He gives, in his correspondence, the following
account of a Sabbath at Athens:
"ATHENS, Oct. 14, 1855.
" In the morning early, I went, in company
with a friend, to attend the services of the Greek
church. The first we entered was very small and
humble in appearance, designed for the poorer
classes, yet it was fully attended. They seemed
very degraded and bigoted in the observance of
form, devoutly kissing the pictures of the Virgin
and saints, and pressing them with their foreheads,
holding lighted candles, and crossing themselves
incessantly. Their worship is very like that of
the Romish church, consisting of reading the liturgy, and nasal singing by priests and small
boys, burning incense, swinging the censer, and
various outward rites. They have the lower forms
of the Roman Catholics without their soul-inspiring music and splendid cathedrals.
" We then sought out the large church of St.
Irene, in the central street of the city. This is
principally attended by the higher classes. It is
massive and finely built, though still unfinished.




PROTESTANT WORSHIP.           131
A high gallery above is.assigned to the ladies.
The paintings of the Trinity and saints were conspicuous above the high altar. The service was
similar to the former on a more elevated scale.
The priests and bishops were engaged in consecrating three loaves of bread, by burning lighted
candles, and swinging incense over them. This
was afterwards passed around and received as
the body of Christ by the multitude. Such is
the superstitious ceremony and observance of the
Greek church.
" I then went to attend the Protestant Greek
service at Dr. King's chapel, which is built upon
his own grounds, and has recently been opened,
after being closed for a period of seven years.
The audience consisted of forty or fifty persons,
assembled to enjoy the worship of God in spirit
and in truth. Though it was a strange language
in a land of strangers, yet it was delightful to feel
that there was the same spirit of faith and love to
Christ our common Saviour. The Doctor took
for his text these solemn words:' To-day, if ye
will hear his voice, harden not your hearts.' His
manner was earnest and eloquent, and the truth
reached the hearts of his hearers. Never did I
see a more attentive congregation. Every eye
was directed upon the speaker throughout the
discourse, as though all were listening for their
lives.




132          DR. KING'S LABORS.
"And much, indeed, did I enjoy this scene
and influence of spiritual worship in contrast with
what I had just witnessed of dead and soulless
formality. Dr. King is greatly encouraged in his
labors at present, so that he cannot feel it his
duty to return home while such a work is springing up around him, though he spoke with tears
in his eyes of his desire to go out and gather his
separated children in one family, that he might
give them a father's counsel, and blessing, and
die in peace.
"He has a class of eight Greek students in
theology, sent to his house, and supported by the
Western Asia Missions' Aid Society. To them
he delivers three lectures a week on biblical interpretation and systematic theology. They are
thus abundantly qualified for religious discussion,
and to exert a favorable influence upon all with
whom they come in contact. Indeed, it seems a
remarkable providence that has brought them
here just at this time. I have no doubt but it is
the dawning of a better day for Greece.
" He is not molested at all in his work, but,
through faith and perseverance, has overcome
every form of persecution. A Greek priest came
to him a few days since, and said,' I believe you
preach the truth. We must return to the Bible.'
The lawyer who was engaged on his trial has become his warm friend, and the government is no




MARS HILL.              133
longer hostile. The truth of his life and preaching
has thus triumphed over all opposition. Great,
indeed, must be his joy in living to see these fruits
of his labors, and reap the reward of his faithfulness and devotion in the service of his Divine
Master.' Be not weary in well-doing; for in due
season ye shall reap, if ye faint not.'
"In the afternoon I went out with my Bible
in my hand, and ascending the steps cut in the
solid rock, stood upon'Mars Hill,' where Paul
preached eighteen hundred years ago, and there
read the sublime discourse of the Apostle'to the
men of Athens,' wherein he set forth to them the
Unknown God, whom they ignorantly worshipped, and declared to them that the Maker of heaven and earth dwelleth not in temples made with
hands, neither is the Godhead like unto gold, or
silver, or stone graven by art and man's device,
for we are his offspring: in Him we live, and
move, and have our being.
"Standing here upon the very rock where he
stood, and in sight of the ruined temples to which
he then referred in all their magnificence and
beauty, I realized as never before the boldness
and impressive eloquence of the great Apostle to
the Gentiles. Around him was the high court of
the Areopagus, the Epicurean and Stoic philosophers, and the idle crowd that had followed him
from the Agora to hear what' this babbler would
12




134            REFLECTIONS.
say.' Before him were the altars of many gods,
goddesses, and heroes of Pagan mythology, and
above him rose the Acropolis, crowned with marble temples, and devoted to heathen worship, and
filled with statues and idols of gold, silver, and
stone, exhibiting all the refined art of Greece in
the days of her proudest glory. And in the
midst of all Paul stood up and preached to them
Jesus and the resurrection, repentance and judgment to come, while'some mocked, and others
said, we will hear thee again of this matter.' As
-I stood alone amid the memory of such scenes as
this, and saw around me these splendid ruins of
human greatness and power, I felt that God only
was great, and man and his works were mortal
and perishing. I felt, too, the truth of the same
resurrection that Paul preached, and our need of
the same Jesus that he declared, to deliver us
from death and the grave, and clothe us with immortal life.
"I remained long in contemplating the scene
and holding communion with the invisible God,
and then returned at evening through the crowded
streets of the city to my room, filled with impressions of the Sabbath that will never be forgotten.
"The following Sabbath we attended church
at the English chapel connected with the British
embassy. The Rev. Dr. Hill performed the ser



DR. HILL'S SCHOOL.          135
vice, and delivered a very excellent discourse
from the words of Paul,'I press toward the mark
for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ
Jesus.'
"It was indeed most cheering and encouraging
to the Christian heart far from home, thus to join
with the people of God in his house of prayer,
and sit together in heavenly places in Christ
Jesus. In the evening I was invited to be present at the religious exercises of Dr. Hill's school.
The smaller girls were first assembled, and Scripture exposition, singing and prayer conducted in
Greek. Then the older pupils were gathered in
the parlor, and their devotions held in English.
I was much interested to see these Greek girls
listening with earnestness to the reading of the
gospel and the words of exhortation the Dr. addressed to them, then joining in singing an evening hymn of praise, and all bowing in prayer and
thanksgiving to the Father of Mercies, from
whom  cometh down every good and perfect
gift.
" The school at present numbers between three
and four hundred Greek girls and children, under
the efficient and systematic direction of Mrs. Hill.
It has been in operation more than twenty years,
and has exerted a wide and lasting influence upon
the educational and spiritual interests of Greece.
"Through such agencies as these at work, and




136          DR. HILL'S SCHOOL.
the Scriptures introduced and taught in all the
government and public schools, there is much
hope for the future of this ancient classic land.
" Most sincerely yours,
"C. N. R."




CHAPTER XIV.
VISIT TO EGYPT.
AFTER completing the object of his visit to
Athens, Mr. Righter returned to Constantinople,
reaching the latter place Oct. 30th. He resumed
his labors here with the same earnestness with
which he had pursued them before his departure;
and, having made arrangements for the prosecution of the work of Bible distribution during his
absence, with the advice of friends who were
interested in the cause, he determined upon making a journey to Egypt and the Holy Land, to
inquire into the condition of those countries with
reference to the Word of Life, and to provide for
the supply of their destitution as far as it could be
done. Accordingly, having all things ready, he
took his departure again from  Constantinople
Dec. 27th, on board the steamer Emily, bound
for Alexandria. The account of his voyage is
given in his own words.
"In company with an American friend, I set sail
from the Golden Horn just as tie sunset was gild12*




138             DEPARTURE.
ing the domes, minarets, and palaces of Constantinople. On our right was the wide-reaching Bosphorus, lined with kiosks and country seats,
stretching far to the Black Sea; on the left, the
Golden Horn, spanned with bridges, and filled
with the shipping of all nations, winding to the
valley of sweet waters; before us was Pera, the
chosen residence of Franks, crowned with the Russian, French, and English palaces; on one side
was Stamboul, the old Turkish city, crowned with
mosques, minarets, and monuments, and fronted
by the Seraglio Palace, the proud home of the
ancient Sultans, ornamented with gardens and
evergreen shade trees; and just opposite, Scutari,
in Asia, overlooked by its immense military hospital, and forest cemetery of cypress; and the
Princess Isles beyond, standing out in the sea of
Marmora, as a citadel to guard the entrance to all
of these.
"We sailed all night across the Sea of Marmora,
and in the morning were passing through the
Dardanelles, with the shores of Europe and Asia
on either side. We glided by the modern castles
of Europe and Asia, and the ancient Sestos and
Abydos, where Leander was wont to swim the
Straits to visit his Hero; and came to the ruins
of old Troy, on the shore, and the island of Tenedos, near by, and on past the picturesque shores
of Mytilene, the landing-place of the Apostle




POLYCARP.              139
Paul on his voyage to Athens, and cast anchor
for the night in the broad and beautiful harbor of
Smyrna.
"The next day was the Sabbath. We called
upon the Rev. Mr. Ladd, American Missionary,
and attended his Turkish service at the chapel in
the morning. Though the language is a strange
tongue, yet the gospel always sounds delightful to
a Christian traveller in a strange land. A little
congregation of the natives, Armenians, Greeks,
and Jews, were assembled, and listened to the
earnest discourse of the preacher with marked
attention. It is pleasing to find the good work
prospering here under the faithful labors of our
missionaries; and Armenians, Greells, and Mussulmans receiving the Bible and the faith of Christ
in simplicity and in truth, thus rekindling anew the
pure light of the gospel in the ancient church of
Asia, which had centuries since gone out in
darkness, whose golden candlestick has long been
removed out of its place.
"'The next morning, accompanied by the Rev.
Mr. Morgan, we visited the old Greek Church where
the Bishop Polycarp is said to have preached.
Over the door, I read the inscription in ancient
characters, POLYCARPION SE THEION POMENA
(Polycarp the divine shepherd). It is elegantly
decorated within, and nine silver lamps are kept
burning night and day. A large screen stands




140           HIS MARTYRDOM.
before the high altar, elaborately carved in oak,
representing all the various scenes in the New
Testament, connected with the birth, life, death,
and resurrection of Christ,-the work of many
years of diligent labor, all cut by the hands of
one who was deaf and dumb. Then we mounted
to the old Genoese castle upon the hill, which
commands a view of the city, harbor, mountains,
and country round. Here, underneath a tall cypress tree, stands the tomb of the good Bishop
Polycarp, and near by is the amphitheatre where
he suffered martyrdom for the witness of Jesus
and the Word of God. How inspiring it is to
the Christian faith to visit such a spot sealed by
the blood of. one who bore such testimony to the
truth as it is in Jesus. When called upon by the
slaves of the Roman Emperor tb curse Christ and
do sacrifice, he replied,' Eighty and six years I
have served him, and he has done me nothing but
good; how can I curse my Lord and Saviour?'
Then he freely gave himself up to his persecutors
to kindle the flames around him. Mussulmen
now come up to this place every year to offer
their sacrifice of sheep at the great festival of
Bairam. Within the bounds of the amphitheatre
we saw the caverns whence the wild beasts were
let loose upon the Christians in the arena, to tear
them  limb from limb, and we could distinctly
trace the outline of the seats where the Pagan




THE SEVEN CHURCHES.          141
multitude assembled to witness this bloody spectacle.
" From a ruined tower of the Castle we enjoyed
a lovely panoramic view of the villages, valleys,
and surrounding country of Asia Minor. Here
is the site of ancient Smyrna, the Crown of the
East, and near by the River Mylis flows to the
sea, on whose banks the ancients claimed that
Homer was born; beyond lie the valley and
River Hermes, celebrated in classic song, and the
broad Mediterranean stretches far in the distance
-all spread out like a picture before us. From
this point, too, we could trace distinctly the location of the seven churches of Asia, in the precise
order in which they are mentioned in the Revelations: Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamos, Thyatira,
Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea, whose ruined
sites still remain to attest the truth of Scripture,
and the terrible fulfilment of the prophecy of'Him that liveth and was dead, and is alive for
evermore.' Descending thence we visited a large
Armenian church in the centre of the city. It
was newly built, and contained a painting of the
Trinity, the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit, and
the single Eye of Omniscience over all, to guard
the purity of his house and worship, much fitted
to impress the ignorant and bigoted multitude.
"On the following day we embarked again on
board our steamer for Alexandria, and in the




142                 PATMOS.
evening passed the celebrated Island of Scio,
another reputed birth-place of the great poet,
Homer.
"'Seven cities claimed the birth of Homer dead,
Through which the living Homer begged his bread.'
" Then come Nikaros and Samos, just beyond,
and now we sail among
" The Isles df Greece, the Isles of Greece,
Where burning Sappho loved and sung,
Where grew the arts of war and peace,Where Delos rose, and Phoebus sprung,
Eternal summer gilds them yet,
And all except their sun is set.'
Here is Tinos and Delos, Coos, Naxos and Paros,
all famed in classic history and poetry. The
morning sun rises over the isle of Patmos in the
distance, and in two hours more we are passing
just beside it. With a good glass I could discern
the houses in the village, and the convent that
marks the  place  where  the beloved disciple
received the sublime revelations of the Apocalypse.  It indeed filled the mind with sacred
emotions to feel that we were gazing upon the
precise spot where angels and the Saviour himself descended to reveal' the things which must
shortly come to pass.'  Here also a door was




REACHES ALEXANDRIA.          143
opened in heaven, and the future glories of the
spiritual world, the golden streets of the New
Jerusalem, the City of our God, the great white
throne and Him that sat upon it, whose face was
to look upon like a jasper and a sardine stone,
and cherubim and seraphim, and a multitude that
no man can number, out of every kindred, and
tongue, and people, and nation, with palms in their
hands, clothed in white robes, washed and made
pure in the blood of the Lamb, were all made to
pass in heavenly vision before the mind of the
inspired prophet. I took my Bible, and read
again and again these divine scenes, and realized as
never before their full and glorious truth and
power.
"At evening we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset in
the sea, such as one rarely sees, even in the orient,
as if to give effect to the impressions of the day,
ever changing ever new, such as no artist can
pencil. Rising just above the horizon yonder,
Patmos seems floating in the distance, like an
island of the blest. Two days more of sailing in
the open sea brought us safely to our destined
port, Alexandria.
"At Alexandria I called upon the Rev. Mr.
Br, on, missionary of the Free Church of Scotland, and conferred with him in reference to the
interests of the Bible Cause. He informed me
that there was no Bible depot established in the




144          CONVERTED GREEKS.
city, and until recently very little had been accomplished in circulating the Scriptures. Within
the last three months, however, a zealous young
man from Beyrout, Mr. Spillman, had labored
with much success as Bible colporteur, selling the
Scriptures in the streets, from house to house, and
among the shipping of all nations in the harbor.
Mr. Spillman gave me the following list of Scriptures he has thus sold in twelve different languages:
27 Arabic, 39 Italian, 25 Greek, 8 French, 6 Hebrew, 4 Turkish, 6 English, 2 Swedish, 2 Coptic, 2
Armenian, 2 German, 1 Danish; making together
124 copies, for 960 piastres. He has also the
encouragement that his labors are attended with
immediate good results. He related to me, among
others, the following interesting incident: A Greek
of Damascus, living at Alexandria, became convinced, by reading the Bible, of the errors of his
church and the truth of the Protestant faith. He
immediately began to instruct others, and through
his influence six were persuaded to renounce the
Greek religion. They suffered much persecution
from the bigoted Greeks, and one night, while at
their devotions, they were attacked by a party of
forty or fifty, armed with knives and sticks, but
were delivered from their hands by the Turkish
police. He has since sold eight Bibles in that
very room; one of the first persecutors has himself become a devout believer, and now a goodly




UP THE NILE.             145
number assemble there to read the Scriptures
together, and have prayers in the name of Jesus
Christ. Through the humble labors of this one
colporteur, so much interest is beginning to be
manifested in the Bible work, that Mr. Brown
thought the time had already come for opening a
Bible depository in the central street of the city,
similar to that established at Constantinople,
which would bring the Scriptures in every language publicly before the notice of all, and thus
greatly increase their sale and circulation. Alexandria has a population of 150,000; say Moslems,
110,000; Greeks, 6,000; Jews, 4,000; Europeans
and other foreigners, 30,000.
"I also visited the ruins of the Alexandrine
Library, where our Septuagint translation of the
Old Testament was made by order of Ptolemy
Philadelphus, two hundred and eighty-four years
before Christ, and the spot where it is said St.
Mark the Evangelist suffered martyrdom, now
occupied by a Turkish mosque of a thousand and
one columns.
"Learning from the American Consul that a
steamer would sail on the following day from
Cairo for the upper Nile, accomplishing the voyage in seventeen days, which requires sixty in a
Nile boat, I decided to improve this favorable
opportunity for exploring Upper Egypt, as a field
for circulating the Scriptures, and also to investi13




146             THE COPTS.
gate the confirmations of Scripture history and
prophecy, found upon the sculptured monuments
and tombs of this ancient land. I accordingly
provided myself with a small supply of Coptic
and Arabic Bibles and Testaments, and took the
morning train from Alexandria for Cairo, where
we arrived the same afternoon, and embarked
immediately on board the steamer for Assouan.
" I had been much interested in the Copts, the
descendants of the ancient Egyptians, who never
embraced the Mohammedan religion, though
threatened with death, and suffering great persecutions from  the Moslems; and thought they
might afford an encouraging field for Bible distribution. They trace their descent to Copt, one of
the four sons of Mizraim, the son of Ham, who
settled in Egypt, and gained possession of the
whole country. Egypt is styled, in Arabic, Misi,
which recalls, the old Hebrew Mizraim (Mizrim);
in the ancient Egyptian language it was called
Khemi, or, the land of Khem, answering to the
land of Ham, or rather Khem, mentioned in the
Bible.
" My first effort to introduce the Scriptures
among them was at Girgeh, two days' sail from
Cairo. As I was walking in the street I met two
of them, distinguished by wearing the dark turban. I inquired for the church, and they at once
conducted me there. It is neatly built of brick,




THE CHURCH.              147
has a matting covering the floor, and a gallery
for the women above.  I inquired also for their
balas, or priest, and they soon brought him and
several other chief men to see me. They asked
me if I were Catholic.  I said'No.''Taib'
(good), they exclaimed. I told them I was a
Christian.'Taib keteer' (good many times).
I asked them  if they wished the Scriptures.'Eriva' (yes). I told them I had some at the
steamer. They volunteered to come down in a
body, fifteen or twenty, to receive them, and expressed the greatest delight when they opened
the books, and read the Psalms and Gospel in
their own Coptic language.  I gave them six
copies-all I could spare from my little stock,
and still they urged for more. Two Mussulmans,
who had followed us to the church and steamer,
now came forward and commended the Christians,
saying,' Gepti taib keteer' (Copts are very good).
It was pleasant to receive this testimony from
Mohammedans, and to find such a spirit of harmony existing between them, instead of a feeling
of hatred and persecution. I asked if all the
Copts could read, and they took me to their
school, near the church, where thirty or forty
boys were diligently reading and studying from
their plates or squares of tin, written with ink,
which they use instead of printed books. I was
informed that they number 2,500 in the town,




148                ESNE.
and are the best educated and most intelligent
portion of the people.  In fact, they are the
money-changers and secretaries of the Turkish
officials, and without them the business of government could never be conducted.
" My next visit to them was at Esne, ih Upper
Egypt, where our steamer called for the passengers to view the ruins of an old temple. I was
guided by one of them, whom I met in the street,
to their principal church. They sent directly for
the balas (priest) and several of the chief Copts.
I asked if they had the Scriptures. They produced a copy of their liturgy in Coptic and Arabic, and expressed a great desire to have also' Tourat and Ingil' (the Bible and Gospel). I
tell them that I have some at the steamer if they
wish. They answer,  Taib,' and say they will
come immediately to the river for them. They
invite me first, however, into a large house near
by, where several of their elders are seated. I
join their circle after the Oriental manner, and
tell them that' I am American Inglese, that we
love the Bible and the Copts, and I have come to
give them this Book of God.''Taib keteer,' they
exclaimed,'Americani, gepti Christiani, sawa,
sawa, sawa' (the Americans and Copts are Christian brothers), said they, putting the forefingers
of their two hands together to express close friendship.  I could speak but few words of Arabic,




THE SCULPTURES.           149
and one or two of them could speak only a few
words in Turkish, so that we were obliged principally to employ the language of signs. As I
spoke still to them of the Bible and Gospel, one
of their number remarked,'Allah var' (God
is here). They then brought me coffee for refreshment, and the whole party came with me to
receive the Scriptures. They formed quite a little
procession of venerable men, headed by their old
priest, Abraham, and his young assistant, John,
and followed by a number of their children, I
gave them a Bible and two Testaments. They
expressed much gratitude, and said they would
both read it, hide it in their hearts, and teach it
also to their children.  The priests, unlike the
Catholics, were very desirous to have their people
receive the Bible, and thanked me cordially for it
in their name. An intelligent little boy, ten or
twelve years of age, now came forward, and
entreated me for an'Ingil' (Testament).  I
asked if he could read it. A Testament was
handed him, and he read it as fluently as a grown
person. He kissed my hand, and begged me for
a book by holding out his two hands before me;
but I had no more to spare, and was obliged to
refuse him.  I thought, however, a'backshish'
would satisfy him as well, and placed a small
piece of money in his hand. He at once gave it
back to me with a smile, and put out his hands
13*




150               CUSTOMS.
again entreating me for a book. I much regretted that I must deny him and others begging for'Ingil Tourat,' and could only promise that I
would send them more from Cairo by the first
opportunity.
" Their priests are illowed to marry, and the
Copts have one wife, and live together in families
as Christians. They do not worship images, pictures, or saints, or pray to the Virgin Mary, as the
Greeks and Catholics, but only to God through
Christ alone. They have four churches, and number 1,500 in Esne. More than one-third, or 500,
are able to read. At Assouan, the ancient Syene,
I found the acting American Consul was a Copt,
and twenty or thirty others resided in the village.
They have no church or priest among them, but
have a service every Sunday, and an address or
sermon from one of their number. They desired
much to have the Scriptures, and I gave them
two copies of the New Testament, for which they
brought me presents of ebony wood to express
their gratitude in return. I requested the Consul
to assemble them all at his house in the evening,
and in company with several English and American friends made them a visit, and told them of
our faith and worship in England and America.
They heartily assented to all, and were delighted
to receive instructions from us as Christians from
distant lands. They had never before received




COPTS AT THEBES.           151
any visit from missionaries or Christian friends,
and it was indeed encouraging to preach the Gospel to these simple-minded Christian people, and
give them the New Testament, far on the borders
of Ethiopia. May the Lord bless his Word, that
the desert may in truth bud and blossom as the
rose, and Ethiopia stretch forth her hands unto
God. 
" On our return I learned that at ancient Thebes
there is a large community of Copts, and a bishop
living among them.  The American Consul,
though a Mussulman, said that his family and the
bishop's were like brothers, and he would immediately send for him  to meet me at his house.
The bishop very soon came, and I was much
pleased with his venerable, patriarchal appearance. I spoke to him of the Bible and Gospel,
and related to him what I had already done for
the Copts. He thanked me sincerely, and said,' It is very kind in the Americans to remember
the Copts; and I am exceedingly glad to have
my people receive the Scriptures.' I then made
an appointment to visit his church with him on
the following day. The next morning I called
upon him at his house. He gave me the Christian salutation and a welcome to his home. After
the ordinary Oriental entertainment, we visited
the two schools for boys which the bishop has
instructed in his house, and then set out for the




152           CONVERSATION.
church. Having crossed the Nile, we rode on
horseback for an hour across the sandy plain,
quite to the base of the Lybian mountains, and
came to the ancient Coptic church that stands
alone on the edge of the desert. Here they were
driven by Moslem persecution, and here they now
toil up every Sabbath to worship God. It is a
plain and simple edifice, built of plaster, and supported by old Corinthian columns from the ruins
of a Christian church of the age of Constantine.
As we sat upon the matting, resting from the
heat of the sun, I asked the bishop what was the
belief of his church respecting the Bible and
Saviour.  He answered,'We believe that the
Bible is from God: Christ is the Son of God.
Glory be to the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost.
Amen."  I said to him that we would be glad to
have him come to America, and tell us all about
his people. He smiled and replied: "Yes, the
Copts are very poor, and I would like much to
visit America, and get money to build another
church in the village, as it is so far to come across
the sandy plain under a burning sun."  We
then returned, and at his house I found a number
of the principal Copts assembled to meet me. I
presented them with a copy of the Bible, and told
them that we loved this Bible in America, and I
had come to give it to those who have it not in
the East. They gathered around me, and ex



EVANGELICAL ALLIANCE.         153
claimed,' Mashallah' (God be praised). I asked
the bishop if he wished to have American missionaries come and live among his people, to instruct
them in the Scriptures and preach the Gospel, as
they had done among  the Armenians.  He
replied,'I would be very happy to welcome
American Christians among my people.'  He
then gave me his parting salutation, as they all
did, in the name of God; and I returned on
board our steamer for CGiro. I have thus been
much interested in exploring the Coptic field, and
distributing the Scriptures among this ancient
Christian people."
At Constantinople Mr. Righter had become
interested in the objects of the Evangelical Alliance, of which he was made the Corresponding
Secretary, and he was charged with a special commission to advance the objects of the Alliance, by
organizing similar associations in other places.
He makes frequent mention in his notes of travel
of organizing committees among those who loved
the cause of Christ, after having explained to
them the purposes aimed at in the Alliance.




CHAPTER XV.
VISIT TO PALESTINE.
MR. RIGHTER'S stay in Egypt was short. The
principal part of his time was spent in Cairo and
the vicinity, and having accomplished all that
seemed immediately practicable he returned to
Alexandria, and took passage for- Jaffa in company with Mr. and Mrs. Wm. C. Prime, whom he
met in Egypt, Mr. De Leon, United States Consul to Egypt, and several other friends whom he
had met since leaving Constantinople. It was
quite a remarkable coincidence that he should be
the travelling companion of three brothers in
three separate years. When he left home for the
first time in 1853, it was in company with Rev.
S. Irenseus Prime, who was leaving to spend a
year in foreign travel to restore his wasted health.
Mr. R. was with him during that whole year of
travel. When he set out a second time in 1854,
it was in company with Rev. E. D. G. Prime, who
was leaving to take charge of the American chapel
at Rome, where they parted after being together
nearly two months.




JAFFA.                155
On reaching Egypt, in January, 1856, he very
unexpectedly met with Mr. William  C. Prime,
with whom he afterwards travelled through the
Holy Land and to Constantinople.
Arrived at Jaffa, Mr. R. says:-" I made a visit
to the so-called house of one Simon, a tanner, by
the sea side, where Simon Peter lodged, and as he
went up on the housetop to pray, saw heaven
opened, and a vision of four-footed beasts of the
earth, and wild beasts, and creeping things, and
fowls of the air, as it had been a great sheet knit
at the four corners, and let down to the earth,
teaching him that what God had cleansed, he
should not call common or unclean; but that'on
the Gentiles also would be poured out the gift of
the Holy Ghost,' and henceforth he became a
preacher of righteousness to the Gentiles as well
as the Jews.
"Thence I proceeded directly to Jerusalem,
passing across the plain of Sharon and over the
mountains of Judea. It was with peculiar emotions that we entered the Holy City, around
which cluster so many hallowed associations,
whence we received both the law and the Gospel;
where our divine Saviour lived, taught, and died,
rose from the dead, and ascended to the right
hand of the Father, where'he ever liveth to
make intercession for us.' From the New World




156              JERUSALEM.
we have come to bring back the same Bible and
Gospel in its purity to this distant land, whence
we had received it through the apostles and
primitive Christians 1,800 years ago."
He records his impressions more at length in
his letters from which large extracts are made.
The following letters were addressed to the editors
of the "New York Observer:"
" At length'our feet stand within thy gates, O
Jerusalem.''Beautiful for situation, the joy of
the whole earth is Mount Zion. Pray for the
peace of Jerusalem: they shall prosper that love
thee.' How rich and thrilling are the associations
that throng upon the mind as you enter the Holy
City. The abode of the prophets, apostles, and
Saviour himself; where the sublime scenes of our
faith transpired, atonement, resurrection, ascension; where the Holy Spirit descended on the
day of Pentecost, to the disciples, in cloven tongues as of fire, and all spake in strange languages
the wonderful works of God. Next to walking
the golden streets of the new Jerusalem, to stand
within the earthly city, and gain a vivid, realizing sense of these spiritual scenes, yields perhaps
the highest joy to the Christian heart. To look
upon Mount Zion, Mount Moriah, and the mountains round about Jerusalem, Gethsemane, Cal



WORSHIP.               157
vary, the Sepulchre, and the Mount of Ascension,
where the heavens were opened, and the Saviour
received into glory, quicken one's faith and zeal
in the service of his Divine Master, as no other
influence can, save the movings of the Spirit of
God upon the heart.
"The first day that I spent in Jerusalem was one
of the most deeply interesting of my life. In the
morning (though not the Sabbath), we attended
service in the English church upon Mount Zion,
an elegant Gothic building, and a fitting sanctuary to worship God in his ancient chosen dwelling-place. The Scriptures were read, embracing
the preaching of John the Baptist,'Prepare ye
the way of the Lord, make his paths straight.
Every valley shall be filled, and every mountain
and hill shall be brought low; and the crooked
shall be made straight, and the rough ways shall
be made smooth: and all flesh shall see the salvation of God.' Also the baptism of Jesus, when'the heaven was opened, and the Holy Ghost
descended in a bodily shape like a dove upon
him, and a voice came from heaven, which said,
Thou art my beloved Son: in thee I am well
pleased.' The Gospel comes to us as the oracles
of salvation from the lips of the earnest preacher,
and the songs of praise, and the voice of prayer
ascend as incense before the throne, to call down
the blessing of heaven upon the worshipping
14




158          FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
assembly. Surely,  this is none other than the
house of God, this is the gate of heaven,' to our
souls, and here we do sit together in heavenly
places in Christ Jesus.
"It was a scene and impression never to be
forgotten.'They that trust in the Lord shall be
as Mount Zion, which cannot be removed, but
abideth for ever.''As the mountains are round
about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about his
people, from henceforth, even for ever.' After
service, we were introduced to good Bishop Gobat, and an excellent circle of Christian friends,
faithful watchmen on the walls of Zion. Then
we went forth in company with Dr. Bonar, of
Scotland, and Dr. Tyler, of America, to gain our
first views and impressions of the holy city, and
the sacred localities around.
"We first examined the town of David, a
quadrangular fortress built in the walls upon the
western side of Mount Zion. It is partly of
modern, and partly of ancient construction. The
lower stones are large, and leveled in the ancient
Jewish style of workmanship, which is as distinctly marked as the Roman or Grecian. The
foundation must therefore undoubtedly be referred
to the time of David when he took the fortress of
Mount Zion from the Jebusites, and strengthened
it, and made Jerusalem the capital of his kingdom.
Then passing beyond the Jaffa gate, and ascend



VIEW OF THE CITY.         159
ing a flight of stone steps, we climbed to the top
of the city walls.  They are built of square
masses of limestone, and strengthened with towers
and battlements in the Saracenic style. A wide
space is left upon the top, and a parapet upon the
outer edge gives security to the walk that commands a beautiful view both within and without
the city. From this point at the northwest angle
of Mount Zion, we looked westward to the upper
and lower pools and valley of Gihon, that terminates in the valley of the Sons of Hinnom. It is
recorded that' Hezekiah stopped the upper water
course of Gihon, and brought it straight down to
the west side of the city of David.' This aqueduct is still traceable, and conducts underneath
the walls to the pool of Hezekiah within the city.
At this fountain of Gihon, Zadok the priest took
an horn of oil out of the Tabernacle and anointed
Solomon king of Israel.'And they blew the
trumpet, and all the people said, God save king
Solomon. And all the people came up after him,
and the people piped with pipes, and rejoiced
with great joy, so that the earth rent with the
sound of them.'
" As we looked down upon this valley, and the
reservoir still remaining, around which the anointing of the Wise King was celebrated, the whole
scene was vividly impressed upon the mind.
From this point also we traced the course and




160                TITUS.
direction of the ancient walls of the city, and the
whole was spread out as a physical map before
us. Turning to the right we saw the gardens of
Bathsheba within the walls now planted with
green growing grain, and portions of Mount Zion
under the plough of cultivation.' Zion shall be
ploughed like a field.' Also piles of ruin and
rubbish were heaped around, and an air of desolation prevailed, like a city overthrown.' Jerusalem shall become heaps, behold your house is
left unto you desolate.' The whole not only
forcibly illustrated Scripture history, but also the
terrible fulfilment of Scripture prophecy pronounced against the covenant people for their
transgression and unbelief. We now continue
our walk upon the walls, and come to the Damascus gate on the North, that forms the great public
way to Samaria and Galilee. Before us on the
left is Mount Scopus, where Titus pitched his
camp and displayed his army to the Jews before
attacking the city, thinking they would at once
surrender at the sight of the Roman legions, but
they were doomed to a more fearful destruction,
that the Saviour's prophecy might be literally
fulfilled.' And they shall fall by the edge of the
sword, and shall be led away captive into all
nations; and Jerusalem shall be trodden down
of the Gentiles until the times of the Gentiles be
fulfilled.'' And as some spake of the temple,




GETHSEMANE.              161
how it was adorned with goodly stones and gifts,'
he said,'As for these things which ye behold,
the days will come in the which there shall not
be left one stone upon another, that shall not be
thrown down.' Titus was most anxious to save
the temple, as one of the noblest monuments of
ancient art. But the'holy and beautiful house,'
says the Jewish historian,'was destined to destruction,' and through a'divine impulse,' a
Roman soldier seized a burning brand and cast it
in at the golden window, whereby the whole edifice was soon wrapt in flames. Titus hastened to
the spot, and finding all attempt to save the
building hopeless, entered the sanctuary and
directed the removal of the sacred utensils of
gold, some of which afterwards graced his triumphal procession, and were sculptured upon the
arch that commemorated his victory at Rome,
where they may be seen to this day.
" Continuing our walk, we reached the northeast
angle of the wall. The valley of Jehosaphat is
below, and the course through which the brook
Kedron winds its way. There, too, is the garden
of Gethsemane, enclosed within a wall, and containing six ancient olive trees (supposed by many
to be the same that were standing in the time of
our Saviour), where he fell upon his face and
prayed, saying,' O my Father, if it be possible
let this cup pass from me; nevertheless, not as I
14*




162          MOUNT OF OLIVES.
will but as thou wilt.'  Here, or at least not far
off, the Saviour endured that'agony and bloody
sweat,' which betokened that the redemption of
a sinful world rested upon his soul, and well nigh
crushed the human nature with its weight.' And
there appeared an angel unto him from heaven
strengthening him.' Beyond rises the beautiful
Mount of Olives, the favorite place of retirement
to our Saviour and his disciples, from the noise
and distraction of the city for divine meditation
and prayer.'And  in the day time he was
teaching in the temple, and at night he went out
and abode in the mount that is called the Mount
of Olives.' Here, also, upon this hillside, just
without the walls of the city, was doubtless the
scene of the crucifixion.  It was outside the
city in a public place, for'they that passed by
reviled on him, wagging their heads,' and saying,' Thou that destroyest the temple and buildest it in three days, save thyself. If thou be the
Son of God, come down from the cross.'
" The high road to Huathoth runs near this
place. And just across this little valley, on the
slope of Olivet, the women may have stood ahd
beheld afar off.'And many women were there,
(beholding afar off,) which followed Jesus from
Galilee, ministering unto him.'
" The sepulchre, too, was probably here. This
was a place of gardens and private tombs of




THE SEPULCHRE.             163
wealthy Jews. The hillside is still filled with
sepulchres and tombs, cut in the solid rock.'Now in the place where he was crucified there
was a garden; and in the garden a new sepulchre,
wherein was never man yet laid. There laid
they Jesus, therefore, because of the Jews' preparation day! for the sepulchre was nigh at hand.'
"Here, then, our Saviour suffered on  the
cross and made atonement for the sins of the
world. Here he was laid in the grave, and burst
the bonds of death, that all through faith might
walk in the newness of life.  Here, then, our
hopes of salvation and immortal life centre and
cling, waiting for the manifestation of the sons
of God, knowing that when Christ appeareth we
shall be like him, for we shall see him as he is.
"How  greatly was our faith strengthened
and  zeal quickened by looking upon these
scenes.
" We continued our walk upon the city walls,
and came to St. Stephen's gate, and the wall of
the harem, that surrounds the court of the mosque
of Omar.  Beyond this, Moslem  bigotry will
allow no Christian foot to tread, without special
orders from their Pasha. Descending thence we
passed through the gate, and beside the rock
where the first of martyrs for the Gospel suffered
death.' He, being full of the Holy Ghost, looked
up steadfastly into heaven, and saw the glory of




164        THE MARTYR STEPHEN.
God and Jesus standing on the right hand of
God.  And they stoned Stephen, calling upon
God, and saying, Lord Jesus, receive my spirit.'
What a halo of glory surrounds the death of this
devoted preacher of righteousness so soon after
the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ; whose
earnest zeal in the service of his Master caused
his face to shine as it had been the face of an
angel; and whose triumphant faith saw the heavens opened and the Son of Man standing on the
right hand of God. Pursuing the path across the
valley and bed of the brook Kedron, we walked
up the old footpath toward Bethany. Here are
ancient steps cut in the rock over which our
Saviour often walked to visit Mary, and her sister Martha, and Lazarus whom he loved. Just
at the right are the large stones on which it is
said the disciples slept, when Jesus withdrew for
prayer in Gethsemane, saying unto them,'My
soul is exceeding sorrowful, even unto death:
tarry ye here and watch with me.''And he
cometh unto the disciples and findeth them asleep.
And he went away again the second time and
prayed, and he came and found them asleep.
The third time also he cometh to his disciples
and saith unto them: Sleep on now and take
your rest; behold he is at hand that doth betray
me.'  A granite column marks the spot, it is
said, where Judas betrayed his Master with a




MOUNT OF OLIVES.            165
kiss, and delivered him to the multitude with
swords and staves, who came from the chief
priests and elders of the people, to take Jesus,
that they might put him to death.
"Passing on and ascending the side of the
Mount of Olives, we reached the place where our
Saviour beheld the city, wept over it, and predicted its ruin, saying:' For the days shall come
upon thee that thine enemies shall cast a trench
about thee, and compass thee round, and keep
thee in on every side, and shall lay thee even
with the ground, and thy children within thee;
and they shall not leave in thee one stone upon
another, because thou knewest not the time of
thy visitation.' How literally was this accomplished by the Romans under Titus. The historian tells us'the folly of resistance was so clear
to Titus, that he became exasperated at the unpleasant task which their obstinacy imposed upon
him. He raised around the city a strong wall of
circumvallation, strengthened with towers, resolved
that none of them should escape but such as surrendered to him.' Thus Titus became the unconscious instrument of accomplishing that doom of
the city which Christ had nearly forty years
before denounced. The whole city lay extended
like a map before us. We could see and distinguish the streets, and the whole interior to the
inner ride of the farther wall. First and most




166       TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS.
conspicuous are seen the walls of the harem, the
court and the mosque of Omar, upon the broad
summit of Mount Moriah, the site of Solomon's
temple.  The grounds are covered with greensward, and planted with olive and cypress trees,
that form a picturesque feature in the view. Beyond stands Mount Zion, crowned with the American convent and the English Protestant church,
and on the right are the domes of the church of
Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre; while the
Moslem minarets, rising at intervals between, tell
us that the followers of the false prophet still
bear sway in the holy city. It was indeed a
lovely view, when we remember the divine glory
manifested and the wondrous scenes that have
transpired here.
"We then ascended still higher the side of
Mount Olivet, and visited the cave or tombs of the
prophets. They consist of chambers and passages
that extend far in the mountain. In some places
they are very narrow and explored with much
difficulty. Returning thence, we walked through
the Jewish burial ground upon the side of the
mountain looking toward Jerusalem. The Jews
love to be buried here, because they say their
Messiah will come and stand upon the Mount of
Olives, and they will then rise to dwell and reign
with him in the restored city and kingdom of
Israel. Then we came to Absalom's Pillar in the




ABSALOM'S PILLAR.           167
valley of Jehoshaphat. It is cut in the solid rock
of the mountain, to which the base is still attached, and is in the form of a circular pyramid
upon a pedestal ornamented with sixteen Ionic
columns. A large hole has been broken at the
side, and Jewish children are taught to throw
stones into it, in contempt for the unnatural rebellion of Absalom  against his father David.
There is very little evidence, however, that this
is the identical pillar that'Absalom reared up
for himself in the king's dale,' because he said,'I have no son to keep my name in remembrance.' In the rear of this monument is the
tomb of Jehoshaphat, said to be filled with ancient manuscripts of the law. And just below is
the tomb or grotto of St. James, extending into
the side of the Mount of Olives. Here, it is said,
the apostle took refuge in a time of persecution
and distress. Just below  stands the so-called
tomb of Zechariah, who was'slain between the
temple and the altar.' It is also of pyramidal
form and hewn out of the solid rock. Each of
its sides is ornamented with six Ionic columns,
and a broad cornice runs around the shaft. No
visible entrance to the interior has yet been discovered.
"It is doubtful whether any of these monuments
can be truly assigned to the persons whose names
they bear. They appear to be of the Egyptian




168       FOUNDATIONS OF TEMPLE.
style of architecture intermingled with Grecian
ornaments.
" We now crossed the valley and ascended again
to the walls of the city. Passing underneath the
golden gateway, now closed, we observed the
beautiful columns of verd antique and marble
thrust into the wall by the Turks, and examined
the immense blocks of stone on which the foundation rests, some of which measured twenty-four
feet in length by four in thickness, and are doubtless a portion of the outer wall of Solomon's temple remaining in position to this day. They are
dressed and beveled in the peculiar Jewish style
of workmanship, and no cement is used in joining
them together.
"Turning the southeast angle of the wall, we
discovered an inverted tablet inserted near the
top, containing a Latin inscription partly effaced,
to Hadriano Diro Augusto, etc., probably a slab
from the temple of Jupiter, which that Emperor
erected on the site of the Jewish temple. Ascending the south side of Mount Zion, we looked
down the valley of the Tyropoeon to the pool of
Siloam, and the king's gardens that are watered
from this fountain. Beyond is the well of Nehemiah and En-rogel, where Jonathan and Ahimaaz waited to bring intelligence to David when
he was driven from the city by the rebellion of
Absalom. Higher up in the valley of the Son of




MOONLIGHT VIEW.           169
Hinnom is Tophet, where the children of Judah
built the high places to burn their sons and their
daughters in the fire, for which sin the Lord
brought signal judgments upon his chosen people.
" The sun had just set behind the mountains of
Judea, and the moon rose beautifully over the
Mount of Olives, as we entered Zion gate and
returned to our home within the city.
" We have thus' walked about Zion and gone
round about her: told the towers thereof, marked
well her bulwarks, and considered her palaces;'
and rejoice to say with the Psalmist,'This God
is our God for ever and ever; he will be our
guide even unto death.'
"In the evening we ascended to our house-top
on Mount Zion, and enjoyed a moonlight view
of the city,-the Mount of Olives and the mountains of Moab in the distance. The sky of the
Orient was pure and bright, the moon and stars
were shining with celestial beauty, and in the
presence of the scene we could not but call to
mind the exclamation of the Psalmist:'When
I consider the heavens, the work of thy fingers:
the moon and stars, which thou hast ordained:
what is man that thou art mindful of him? and
the son of man that thou visitest him?'
"We rose early this morning to enjoy the sunrise view from our house-top on Mount Zion.
The morning star was in the east, and the dawn
15




170           TOMB OF DAVID.
lovely with purple and rosy light. Then came
the reddening rays as the sun shone glorious over
Moab, lighting up Olivet, the minarets of the city,
the domes of Omar and the Holy Sepulchre, flooding the streets with golden light, falling upon
Gihon and the mountains of Judea beyond, and
filling the entire landscape with new life and
beauty. The moon was just sinking in the west
as the sun was rising in the east, and the whole
formed a scene of transcendant beauty, such as I
have never before witnessed in the Orient. In
the language of the Psalmist,'The heavens declare the glory of God, and the firmament showeth
his handiwork. In them hath he set a tabernacle
for the sun, which is as a bridegroom coming out of
his chamber, and rejoiceth as a strong man to run a
race.' We then went to visit the tomb of David
upon the southern summit of Mount Zion, without
the walls. It was formerly a Christian church,
now converted into a Mohammedan mosque, and.
is regarded by Moslems, Jews, and Christians as
enclosing the sepulchre of Israel's king. With
some difficulty, we succeeded in gaining admittance to the room where the tomb stands. It is
built in the Mohammedan style, covered over
with a green cloth, and filled upon the outer
surface with the names of Jews in Hebrew characters, who have been privileged to visit the
place. It is greatly venerated by the Jews, as




THE "UPPER BOOM."            171
occupying the precise spot where the royal dust
of David reposes; and they frequently resort to
the next chamber, near as Moslem bigotry will
permit them, to weep over their fallen condition.
"In an adjoining part of the building we were
shown the large'upper room,' where it is said
the Saviour celebrated the last passover with his
disciples. They also point to a recess in the wall
as the seat occupied by Jesus on that occasion.
The room is now used for religious services by
the native Christians, and the Moslems also have
a praying place here, looking towards Mecca. It
is remarkable that Mohammedans hold many of
the localities connected with the patriarchs and
prophets of Old Testament history in even greater
veneration than the Christians and Jews. But
they seldom reverence any that pertain to the
life, death, and resurrection of Christ, though they
regard Jesus as the last and greatest of prophets
before Mahomet. Upon leaving the mosque, we
passed a ruined stone wall, where it is said the
Virgin Mary lived with the beloved disciple,
John, in his own house after the crucifixion. It is
greatly venerated by the Latin, Greek, and Armenian pilgrims, and several were here, crossing,
prostrating themselves, and kissing the stones of
the wall.
"Then we visited the American convent near
by which they tell us occupies the site of the house




172            SACRED PLACES.
of Caiaphas, the high-priest, where they led away
Jesus the night after his arrest in the garden of
Gethsemane. The place of the Saviour's imprisonment and mocking is here, shown, also where
the Apostle Peter denied his Lord, when the
cock crew, and Peter went out and wept bitterly.
Likewise behind the altar, they have a large,
rough block of stone, which is said to be the
identical stone that was rolled before the door of
the Saviour's sepulchre.  The pilgrims kiss it
with much devotion, and bedew its surface with
many tears. Though Protestant travellers, overcome by the emotions of the place and hour,
frequently yield implicit belief in all these sacred
relics and localities, I am rather inclined to conclude, that for wise reasons, for the most part,
they are entirely lost. Yet one cannot but have
his faith strengthened, and devotion quickened,
by visiting the precise spots where tradition relates that these scenes of the Saviour's mission
upon earth were witnessed.
"Entering Zion gate, we now pass the lepers'
quarter, a few miserable hovels near the city walls.
They live apart by themselves, are outcasts from
society, and are obliged always to intermarry
with each other. Consequently, not only themselves but their children are all afflicted with
this loathsome disease. No sympathy seems extended to them, and they are suffered to live and




JEWS' WAILING-PLACE.         173
die in filth and wretchedness, the most pitiable
objects in the world.
"Continuing our walk, we came to the outer
walls of the haram or court of the mosque of
Omar. Here we examined the immense stones
forming the arch discovered by Dr. Robinson,
that spanned the valley between Mount Moriah
and Mount Zion.  They bear marks of great
antiquity, and were doubtless connected with the
works of Solomon's temple.
" Then passing through the filthy Jewish quarter, we visited the wailing-place of the Jews opposite the large stones of the old temple wall.
Here fifteen or sixteen old men and as many women and children, were standing opposite the wall
reading the Hebrew prophecies, weeping and wailing over the desolation of Jerusalem, and praying
that their long-expected Messiah would come and
build again the wastes of Zion. They bowed
down with their faces to a hole in the corner of
the wall, and as they turned away their eyes were
wet with tears, and their faces filled with sorrow
and grief. It was indeed an affecting scene, yet
I was more than ever impressed with the stubborn unbelief of the Jews, who still reject the Saviour before the very ruins of the temple whose
destruction he predicted eighteen hundred years
ago.
"  eturning thence near St. Stephen's gate, we
15*




174           VIA DOLOROSA.
met with an old Franciscan monk, who walked
with us along the'via dolorosa,' and pointed out
the various traditional localities connected with
the trial and death of Christ.'Here,' said he,'stood the palace of Pontius Pilate the Roman
governor, where the chief-priests and elders of
the people led away Jesus bound from the house
Caiaphas, and delivered him up to be falsely accused and condemned to death. And when Pilate found no cause of death in him, but would
release him and let him go, the multitude cried
out, His blood be on us and on our children;
crucify him! crucify him!' Just upon our right
is the chapel of flagellation, wher6 the soldiers
scourged Jesus, arrayed him in scarlet robes, platted a crown of thorns and put it upon his head,
spit upon him, and mocked, saying,' Hail, King
of the Jews!' An old arch standing across the
street is called Ecce Homo, where Pilate said unto
them, as Jesus came forth wearing the crown of
thorns and the purple robe, Behold the man!
Then he delivered him unto them to be crucified.
And they took Jesus and led him away, and he
went forth bearing his cross. As we walked along
this mournful way,' Here,' said the monk,'our
Saviour cried Salva Mater, and there by that granite column they laid hold upon Simon of Cyrene
to bear his cross. This upon our right was the
house of Lazarus, and that yonder the palace of




CALVARY.               175
the rich man of whom our Saviour spake in parables.' We then ascended the hill to the churches
of Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre, both included
under the same roof. It is a large and imposing
edifice, entered from an open court fronted by
two broad towers in the semi-gothic style. The
centre is crowned by the dome of the Holy Sepulchre, and upon the right rises the smaller dome
of Calvary. We first ascended a flight of twentytwo stone steps to the top of Mount Calvary.
The floor is laid with marble, and just in front
of an altar dedicated to the Virgin, a hole is cut,
through which you see where the cross stood, and
also a deep rent in the rock underneath made by
the earthquake at the crucifixion.
"Descending thence by a long passage and another flight of thirty-one steps, we visited a dark
chapel dedicated to St. Helena, where, it is said,
the three crosses were found, that of our Saviour
and the two thieves who were crucified with him.
Upon our return a marble slab is shown to us as
the stone on which the body of the Saviour was
anointed previous to burial. Then we enter the
sepulchre itself under a marble canopy richly decorated with lamps of silver and gold, kept burning night and day. In a small inner chamber
stands a marble sarcophagus in which, it is said,
our Saviour was laid, and from which he rose
from the dead. Two black-veiled nuns entered




176            TOMB OF ADAM.
just before me, and kissed and bedewed the marble with their tears. It is profoundly reverenced
by the Latin and Oriental Christians, though it
bears no evidence of being the true sepulchre.
In front also stands a small marble block, on
which they say the angel sat who announced to
the women first visiting the sepulchre the resurrection of our Lord. Upon the right as we came
out, the Greeks have a marble pillar fixed in the
pavement, surrounded by a railing, which they
say occupies the centre of the earth, and marks
the precise spot whence the earth was taken, of
which Adam was created. In a side-chapel upon
the left, the Latins also point out the stone column to which our Saviour was bound, and the
block whereon the Roman soldiers cast lots for
his vesture. Just behind the sepulchre are likewise shown the tombs of Adam  and Joseph of
Arimathea, hewn in the natural rock. It is now
the time of Easter pilgrimage, and multitudes of
devout worshippers are crossing and prostrating
themselves before these sacred localities. Such
are the absurd and idolatrous superstitions that are
believed and perpetuated year after year (through
their bishops and priests) by the thousands of
pilgrims who visit the churches of Calvary and
the Holy Sepulchre.
"C. N. R."




CHAPTER XVI.
BETHANY AND BETHLEHEM.
"As we had now visited the principal-places
of interest within and around Jerusalem, we proposed this morning a visit to the village of
Bethany. Walking out at the Damascus gate on
the North, and continuing along the city walls,
we came to the grotto of Jeremiah, an ancient
cave or quarry, hewn in the limestone rock!
There is now a neat little garden enclosed by a
wall in front, and a Mohammedan dervish has
built a mosque and praying place within it. We
refreshed ourselves at the well and then con-'tinued on our way past St. Stephen's gate, and by
a winding path to the valley of Jehoshaphat and
the brook Kedron, and at length came upon the
high road to Jericho. This is the same road our
Saviour was often wont to walk on his visits to
Bethany. But how changed the scene. Then
the ancient covenant people filled the Holy City,
and the splendid temple of Herod crowned theheight of Mount Moriah.  Now the Moslem
mosque of Omar rises there, and we hear the




178               BETHANY.
Muezzin cry to prayer as we ascend along the side
of Olivet.  Jerusalem  is trodden down. of the
Gentiles, even of the followers of the false prophet, who curse alike the name of Jew and Christian. Yet she shall rise again. Thus saith the
Lord,'Rejoice ye with Jerusalem; I will extend
peace to her like a river, and the glory of the
Gentiles like a flowing stream: for the law shall
go forth of Zion, and the word of the Lord from
Jerusalem.'
" In a half hour more we came to Bethany, the
town of Mary and her sister Martha, with whom
Jesus loved to dwell. It is beautifully situated in
a quiet little valley at the base of the Mount of
Olives, and seems a fitting place for our Saviour's
retirement and social enjoyment. With this one
family more than any other on earth, he held personal communion and fellowship, and his affectionate tenderness flowed forth to them in all its
blessed fulness. Here it was that Mary anointed
the feet of Jesus with precious ointment, very
costly, and wiped his feet with her hair, to testify
her love for the Saviour.  And when she was
rudely rebuked by Judas Iscariot, Jesus replied,'Let her alone; why trouble ye her?  She hath
wrought a good work on me. Verily I say unto
you, wheresoever this gospel shall be preached
throughout the whole world, this also that she
hath done shall be spoken of for a memorial of




TOMB OF LAZARUS.           179
her.' Here also Jesus raised Lazarus from the
dead. We at once sought out the grave of Lazarus, and were pointed to a large tomb excavated
in the natural rock and bearing many marks of
antiquity. Descending a flight of twenty-seven
stone steps, we came to a dark room eight or nine
feet square, which conducted to a second arched
chamber. This was doubtless the place where the
body was laid and the stone placed upon the
door of the sepulchre.' It was a cave and a stone
lay upon it,' says the Evangelist John. Here,
then, at the entrance of this very cave, in all
probability, Jesus wrought the gTeat miracle of
raising Lazarus from the dead. How sublime
was the scene. Jesus said,'Take ye away the
stone.' Then they took away the stone from the
place where the dead was laid. And Jesus lifted
up his eyes and said,' Father, I thank thee that
thou hast heard me; and I knew that thou hearest me always; but because of the people which
stand by I said it, that they may believe that thou
hast sent me. And when he had thus spoken,
he cried with a loud voice, Lazarus come forth.
And he that was dead came forth, bound hand
and foot with grave clothes, and his face was
bound about with a napkin. Jesus saith unto
them, Loose him and let him go.' I was nowhere
so impressed with a sense of the divinity of Christ
as when standing beside the grave of Lazarus,




180                OLIVET,
He spake and the departed spirit heard his voice,
and returned to bring the dead body from the
tomb, and restore the brother to his loving sisters.
Surely this was not the work of man, but of God,
even the God-Man, Christ Jesus.  He wept at
the door of the sepulchre, to testify how tenderly
he loved him. He prayed to his Father in heaven
to signify that he came forth from the Father.
He called the dead to life to manifest his dominion
over the spirit world, that' all might see the glory
of God,' and believe that he was'the resurrection
and the life, and that whosoever believeth in him
shall never die.'
" We loved to linger long around this sepulchre
and feel our faith strengthened that we, at last,
through the same divine power, would triumph
over death and the grave and rise to immortal life.
The air was mild and lovely, the birds were
singing sweetly, amid the blossoms of the almond
trees, and all things were in harmony with the
scene.
" On our return we took the foot-path across the
side of Olivet, where Christ so often walked, and
ascended to the summit of the Mount. Here tradition has falsely located the place of our Saviour's
ascension.  Whereas the Evangelist Luke expressly declares that' he led them out as far as to
Bethany. And he lifted up his hands and blessed
them. And it came to pass while he blessed




VIEW FROM OLIVET.           181
them, he was parted from them and carried up
into heaven.'  Now this point is perhaps only
half the distance from  Jerusalem  to Bethany,
and manifestly cannot be the place of the ascen
sion, yet the oriental Christians have erected here
a church and piously consecrated the spot. The
Moslems have converted the church into a mosque, and guard it with zealous care. We are permitted to enter, however, and are pointed to a
footprint of our Saviour on a rock under the centre, the last that he left on earth when he ascended
to heaven. It is much worn by the kisses of pilgrims. Ascending the minaret, we enjoyed a
splendid view of Mount Moriah, Mount Zion and
the Holy City on the one side, and on the other the
beautiful valley of the Jordan, the waters of the
Dead Sea, the Mount of Temptation, and the
mountains of Moab beyond, all forming a panorama of nature in the verdure and bloom of early
spring.
" Such scenes as these, filled with all their sacred
and hallowed associations, yield the highest joy
to the Christian traveller. He seems in his journey to have reached the Delectable Mountains,
whence he can well-nigh see the gates of the
Celestial City.
"We passed the night in Bethlehem, the birthplace of the sweet singer of Israel and the Saviour of the world-what sacred associations
16




182             BETHLEHEM.
gather to the scene, and what hallowed memories
will ever cluster around it! In the morning
early, I was awakened by the sound of singing,
and hastened to attend high mass of the Armenians in the Grotto of the Nativity. It consisted
of chanting by priests and small boys, bearing
lighted candles, bowing, crossing, prostrations and
kissing of the pavement by the pilgrims-similar
ceremonies, though even more corrupt than the
Catholic church; and as I stood by and witnessed
this heartless worship, I could not but breathe
forth the prayer that the time might speedily come
when the gospel in its simplicity and purity will
prevail in all the lands and languages of the Orient.
" What a cloud of darkness will roll away and a
weight of ignorance and superstition be removed,
when the day shall dawn and the day-star arise
anew in the East.
" Returning thence, we were served with a comfortable breakfast by a Latin monk, and then set
out upon our journey to Hebron. The country
around Bethlehem is beautiful and well cultivated.
The soil is fertile, and the hillsides and valleys
are covered with olives, figs, pomegranates and
terraced vineyards, which afford a picturesque
view in the morning sunlight. In one hour we
reached the pools of Solomon. They are situated
upon a sloping hillside that forms the entrance of
a valley winding eastward toward Jerusalem, and




POOLS OF SOLOMON.           183
are immense in extent. They consist of three
grand and deep basins walled with square stones
and lined with cement, while the bottom is formed
of the natural rock. The whole is so arranged
that the stream from each flows into that below,
and the lower pool is connected with a strongly
built aqueduct that conducts to Jerusalem and
the cisterns of Solomon's temple. A large fountain of four springs continually supplies them with
pure and living water. It is indeed a splendid
work considering the age in which it was constructed, and remains almost entire unto the present day.
" The pools were probably connected with pleasure grounds and a country palace of Solomon
built upon this site. As he himself relates in
Ecclesiastes:'I made me great works; I builded
me houses; I planted me vineyards; I made me
gardens and orchards; I planted trees in them of
all kinds of fruit. I made me pools of water to
water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees."
"Josephus also doubtless alludes to these pools
in the following passage:-' There was a certain
place about fifty furlongs distant from Jerusalem,
which is called Etham. Very pleasant it is in
fine gardens and abounding in rivulets of water.
Thither did he (Solomon) use to go out in the
morning, sitting on high in his chariot.' In their
full and pristine beauty, surrounded by houses,




184          VALLEY OF ESHCOL.
vineyards, gardens, orchards and fruit trees, they
must have been truly magnificent beyond description. Our path now winds over a rough rocky
road, and barren, desolate country, though bearing evidence of former cultivation. We pass two
ancient wells and tombs cut in the rocks by the
wayside, and then come to a beautiful valley
planted with vines carefully terraced upon the
hillsides and filled with lodges and watchtowers
to guard them in the season of vintage. This is
the valley of Eshcol. And these luxuriant vineyards apparently still produce clusters of grapes
equal to that which the spies'cut down and bare
between two upon a staff' unto Moses and Aaron,
at Kadesh, in the wilderness of Paran, when they
returned from searching out the land. Pomegranates, figs, and.olives, also abound in this fertile
valley at the present day.
" Just beyond, commanding a lovely view of the
plain in front, is Hebron, called by the Arabs ElKhulil,'the Friend,' marking it as the dwellingplace of Abraham,'the Friend of God.' There
is perhaps no city in Palestine so rich in ancient
Scripture history as Hebron. Here the patriarchs,
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, lived and walked with
God: and here with their wives by their side,
they all lie buried in the cave of the field of
Machpelah, before Mamre; the same is Hebron
in the land of Canaan. Here Abram when he




MAMRE.                185
separated from Lot'removed his tent and came
and dwelt in the plain of Mamre, which is in
Hebron, and built there an altar unto the Lord.''And when Abram was ninety years old and
nine, the Lord appeared to Abram, and said unto
him, I am the Almighty God, walk before me and
be thou perfect. And I will make my covenant
between me and thee, and will multiply thee exceedingly. Neither shall thy name any more be
called Abram; but thy name shall be Abraham;
for a father of many nations have I made thee.
And I will establish my covenant between me
and thee, and thy seed after thee, in their generations, for an everlasting covenant; to be a God
unto thee and thy seed after thee. And I will
give unto thee, and to thy seed after thee, the
land wherein thou art a stranger; -all the land of
Canaan, for an everlasting possession; and I will
be their God.'
"And the Lord appeared again unto Abraham'in the plains of Mamre, as he sat in the tentdoor in the heat of the day,' and announced to
him the birth of his son Isaac, in his old age, in
whom all the nations of the earth should be blessed.
Here also Abraham pleaded with the Lord to save
the guilty cities of the plain from destruction, and
not to slay the righteous with the wicked, until
God promised that if peradventure ten righteous
were found therein, he would not destroy it.
16*




186              HEBRON.'And Abraham gat up early in the morning to
the place where he stood before the Lord; and he
looked toward Sodom and Gomorrah, and toward
all the land of the plain, and beheld and lo! the
smoke of the country went up as the smoke of a
furnace.' In Hebron also Isaac long dwelt, and
Jacob, after his years of service in Padan Aram,'came unto Isaac his father, unto Mamre, unto
the city of Arbah, which is Hebron, where Abraham and Isaac sojourned.' From hence he went
down with his sons unto Pharaoh in Egypt, and
became a great nation, and when Jacob was about'to be gathered to his fathers' he commanded his
sons saying,'Bury me with my fathers, in the
cave that is in the field of Machpelah, which is
before Mamre in the land of Canaan; there they
buried Abraham and Sarah his wife; there they
buried Isaac and Rebekah his wife; and there I
buried Leah. And his sons did unto him according as he commanded them. And Joseph went
up to bury his father, and with him went up all
the servants of Pharaoh, the elders of his house,
and all the elders of the land of Egypt.' A grand
funeral procession across the sands of the desert
to bury the embalmed body of the aged patriarch
in the land where his fathers dwelt and died and
were buried.
" Hebron likewise became the capital of David's
kingdom, where he reigned seven and a half years




NIGHT IN HEBRON.            187
over Judah, and was also anointed king over all
Israel. Here, too, he doubtless composed many
of his sublime psalms, that have in all ages penetrated the soul and lifted it from earth to heaven.
How vivid and thrilling were all these sacred
associations, as just before the hour of sunset we
passed through the vineyards of Eshcol, crossed
the plain of Mamre, and came to the city of
Hebron.
" We spent the night at the house of a Jew from
Holland, who represented himself as the American consul of the place. The steps and floors
were as neat as Dutch scrubbing and scouring
could make them, but the fleas and other small
animals were as abundant as the grapes in the
valley of Eshcol in the most fruitful season. I
found it convenient to go out upon the house-top
at night and meditate, and the view in the clear
starlight, of the plain, the valley, and the hills
stretching far away, was beautiful indeed. There,
too, I experienced a peculiar delight in holding
communion and fellowship with the God of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, who had here often appeared to them and talked with them as friend
talketh with his friend.
"In the morning we set out to visit the great
mosque that is built over the cave of Machpelah,
where the patriarchs are buried. This is regarded
as one of the most undoubted localities of the




188               MOSQUE.
Holy Land, and is also esteemed one of the holiest
places by the Mohammedans, who have the highest reverence for Abraham and the patriarchs;
and on this account Christians are rigorously prevented from entering it. They were formerly not
even allowed to approach near the outer walls of
the harem.  We were, however, unmolested in
examining the exterior of the edifice. The structure is exceeding massive and has in all respects
an ancient appearance. The walls are built of
large stones levelled in the peculiar Jewish style,
and similar to those around the court of the
Mosque of Omar at Jerusalem. A number of
square pillars, half imbedded in the wall, also
extend around the building, and these are surmounted by a kind of cornice which gives to the
whole an imposing effect.
" We then called upon the sheik of the mosque,
Hadji Halil, to gain admittance, if possible, into
the interior. He is a venerable, amiable-looking
Mussulman, with a long, flowing white beard.
He received us very kindly, and at once admitted
us through the large gate within the outer wall.
As we were about to ascend the broad steps that
lead to the mosque, however, a crowd of bigoted
Moslems gathered around and declared in the
name of the prophet, that we should not be permitted to enter. The old sheik then conducts us
in a very friendly manner to his own house




THE SHEIK.              189
within the court that overlooks the building and
the grounds around, remarking at the same time,'I myself would gladly admit you.  There is
nothing in my religion to forbid it, Mohammedans
and Christians are all children of God and brothers
together (most liberal sentiments to come from a
Moslem sheik), but I dare not do it. My enemies
would at once excite opposition and create an
insurrection in the town.' Meanwhile he gives
us a very hospitable entertainment of coffee,
raisins, fruit, &c., in oriental style, and favors us
with many interesting items of Mohammedan tradition in regard to the lives and history of the
ancient patriarchs. It was most pleasant to find
such a spirit of enlarged kindness and liberality
in a Moslem dwelling in Hebron, where they are
reputed the most bigoted and fanatical in all Palestine. Departing thence, we rode a short distance from the town to visit the large terebinth
tree called'Abraham's oak.' We found many
acorns upon the ground, and also some upon the
tree. It is of immense dimensions, very venerable
and of great antiquity. Returning on our way, we
soon came in sight of Nebby Jonas-' the grave
of the Prophet Jonas.' Here the pilgrims have
erected piles of stones, as is their custom, to mark
their first point of view of a prophet's tomb.
Then retracing rapidly our course, we at length
come in sight of Mount Moriah and Jerusalem.




190        RETURN TO JERUSALEM.
And we are reminded of the journey of Abraham
over the same path, from Beersheba to the land
of Moriah, at the command of the Lord, to offer
up his only son Isaac upon one of the mountains
there.'Then on the third day Abraham  lifted
up his eyes and saw the place afar off.'
"As we approached, the sun was gilding the
mountains of Moab, the summit of Olivet, the
domes, minarets, and towers of the Holy City
with purple and golden light, reminding us also
of'the New Jerusalem,' with its walls garnished
with precious stones, its gates of pearl and streets
of pure gold,' wherein shall in nowise enter anything that defileth; neither whatsoever worketh
abomination or maketh a lie; but they which are
written in the Lamb's book of life, and the glory
of. God doth lighten it, and the Lamb is the light
thereof.'
" How constant and lasting are such scenes to
the Christian traveller in the Holy Land, and how
they fondly linger in memory like a spiritual
vision to elevate the soul from earth to heaven.
"C. N. R."




CHAPTER XVII.
JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA.
" WE made our next excursion from Jerusalem
to the Jordan and the Dead Sea. Passing out of
the Jaffa gate, and crossing the aqueduct from
Solomon's pools, we rode along the valley of
Hinnom, and passed Aceldama, or the Field of
Blood, filled with caves, sepulchres, and dead
men's bones. This was long used as a burialplace for strangers, and is at present entirely
neglected and despised. The brook Kidron now
flows in from above, and winds through the valley. Our path stretches over the hillside, and we
enjoy the beautiful views of Mount Zion in the
distance, which the Psalmist describes,'Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth is
Mount Zion, on the sides of the north. Viewed
from this point in the morning sunlight, Zion
rising majestically on the north, seemed worthy
of the fullest praises of David's harp.
" The country around presents a pastoral scene,
and reminds us of patriarchal days. Sheep and
goats are feeding upon the hillsides, and the




192          CONVENT OF SABA.
shepherds' tents are pitched in the valleys. The
road, however, is not entirely free from danger
of attack.  An armed Bedouin sheik accompanies us as guide and escort on our journey. In a
short time we come to an encampment of black
tents. Several armed men mount their horses as
we approach, and much alarm is excited in our
party. But they prove to be government soldiers in search of robbers, looking more like the
robbers themselves, of whom they are in pursuit.
They gallop around in Arab style, and make
many warlike demonstrations, as they cross over
the mountain.
" We now come to a vast gorge winding through
the rock, several hundred feet deep, wild and
grand beyond description. At the end of this
natural chasm stands the rock-built convent of
St. Saba, on the borders of the wilderness of
Judea. Here a company of forty or fifty Greek
monks spend their time in watching, fasting, and
prayer. A more desolate and dreary spot could
scarcely have been selected. The walls are built
high and strong around to guard against the
attacks of the Arabs; for the monastery is possessed of immense wealth, the gift of pious pilgrims. They let down a basket from an upper
window to receive and examine our letters of
introduction, and then admit us through a heavy
iron door below. We visited the church, rich




MIRACLES OF ST. SABA.         193
with paintings, golden crowns, and gold and
silver lamps, where vespers are chanted every
evening by the monks. The principal then conducts us to a side chapel, in a cave, wherein are
gathered 14,000 skulls of Christians, slain by the
Moslems in the Holy Land.  Afterwards he
points out to us the primitive cave which St.
Saba entered when he came here to found the
convent.  It was inhabited by a lion, but the
saint ordered him to retire, which he did at once,
and faithfully kept guard fourteen years at the
entrance of the cave.  The rough walls are
covered over with the crosses of pilgrims who
have travelled here from afar, and fully believe
the story.
" He also opened for us the chapel tomb of the
saint. This is hung around with pictures of his
prayers and miracles. One of these represents a
pillar of cloud showing him the place to found
his convent, a gazelle directing him where to find
water, and the lion pointing out a place of safety.
There are several small gardens in the grounds
of the monastery, and one tall palm tree, planted,
it is said, by the hand of St. Saba. The rooms
for the entertainment of visitors appeared neat
and comfortable, and we would gladly have spent
the night within the walls. But there was a lady
in our party, and the monks resolutely refused to
grant her admittance, saying,'if they did so, an
17




194           THE DEAD SEA.
earthquake would shake down the monastery,
and there would be a famine for a year throughout the land.'
"We were accordingly obliged to remain in
our tents; and there, commending ourselves to
the protection of God, we slept peacefully through
the night, awaked only by the ringing of the
convent bell that summoned the monks to their
midnight prayers.
"In the morning our friends of the monastery
manifested their hospitality by bringing us bread,
dates,' and cheeses, as is the oriental custom, and
we gave them of our stores, in return. Two Bedouin sheiks now join us as an escort on the
journey, and we set out for the Dead Sea. Our
path winds up the mountain side, and from the
summit we have a commanding view over the
Sand Mountains, even to the wilderness of Engedi, where David fled from the pursuit of Saul,'among the rocks of the wild goats.' The mountains rise around like Alpine summits, clothed
down their side with verdure, where sheep, goats,
and camels are feeding. The Arabs point out
the tomb of Moses on our left, and yonder stretch
the dark waters of the sea in front. Descending
thence, and crossing a small plain covered with
stinted shrubs, we came to the shores of the Dead
Sea. Nothing can equal the aspect of desolation
that reigns around, showing the terrible convul



JORDAN.                195
sion of nature that manifested the wrath of God
from heaven, in overthrowing the wicked cities
of the plain. The mountains give evidence of
volcanic irruption. No fish swim in the waters
of the sea; no wild fowl float upon its surface;
no living animal inhabits its shore. All is solitude'and death. The water is of a dark-green
color, and exceedingly acrid and bitter to the
taste. We tested its peculiar buoyant qualities
by the experiment of a bath. It was well nigh
impossible to sink. We found that we could
stand, sit, or lie in any position without the least
effort. Indeed, I was surprised to find that I
could walk erect in the water without reaching
the bottom. We experienced no particular inconvenience from  bathing, except an adhesive
oily deposit left upon the skin, and to those who
were unfortunately submerged, a most disagreeable, irritating effect in the throat and head.
" But we must not remain long in this burning sun and heated air. We soon mounted our
horses and rode across the barren, salt-crusted
plain to the banks of the Jordan. In a half hour
from the sea we arrived at the bathing-place of
the Pilgrims.
" There is scarcely any spot in Palestine I had
so longed to visit as this upon the river Jordan.
It is so interwoven in our hymns and sacred poetry with the borders of the promised land, the




196          CHRIST'S BAPTISM.
heavenly inheritance, that we seemed in a peculiar sense to be standing on the confines of a better land above.
"Here the children of Israel, following the ark
of God, passed over on dry ground.'The waters
which came down from above stood and rose up
upon an heap, and those that came down toward
the sea of the plain (even the Salt Sea) failed and
were cut off; and the people passed over right
against Jericho.' Here Elijah and Elisha came
and stood beside Jordan.' And the prophet took
his mantle and wrapped it together, and smote the
waters, and they were divided hither and thither,
so that they two went over on dry ground.' And
just beyond, Elijah was caught up with' a chariot of fire and horses of fire, and ascended by a
whirlwind unto heaven.' Here also came Jesus to
Jordan unto John, to be baptized of him.'And
Jesus when he was baptized went up straightway
out of the water; and lo the heavens were opened
unto him, and he saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove and lighting upon him, and lo a
voice from heaven, saying: This is my beloved
son in whom I am well pleased.' As we stood
thus on the banks of Jordan, at the hour of sunset, these scenes all passed vividly before the
mind, and we realized as never before their divine reality and power.
" Then two men came down to cross the river.




MOUNT NEBO.              197
One passed firmly over, but the other, an aged
man, trembled in the centre of the current, and
his companion returned to his assistance and conducted him safely to the opposite shore. This also
reminded us of the angel coming to strengthen the
trembling pilgrim, as he crosses the dark river,
and guide him triumphantly to the gates of the
celestial city.
"We bathed in the rapid flowing waters, gathered a few mementos from the shore, and then
unwillingly departed for our tents near the site
of the ancient Jericho. I shall long remember
that hallowed hour on the banks of the river
Jordan.
" We rode from the Jordan across the plains of
Jericho, at the hour of sunset and twilight. The
valley is well watered, covered with wild flowers
in full bloom, and, uncultivated by the hand of
man, is still the garden of the Lord. Behind us,
rising above the other peaks, is'Mount Nebo,
at the top of Pisgah,' where Moses, just before
his death, went up from the plains of Moab.'And the Lord showed him  all the land of
Gilead, and all the land of Judah, and the South,
and the plain of the valley of Jericho, the city
of palm  trees, unto Zoar.'  This view of the
promised land, spread out like a Paradise before
him, must have been lovely beyond description
to the inspired lawgiver, whose'eye was un17*




198        OVERTAKEN BY NIGHT.
dimmed and his natural force unabated.' How
beautiful an emblem, too, is it of the last hours
of the faithful Christian, who is summoned to die
upon the earthly mount of vision, with the
heavenly world full in view; and angel messengers are waiting around, as for Elijah of old, to
bear his triumphant spirit swift to the glories of
the New Jerusalem.
"As we are thus enjoying the landscape and
contemplating these scenes, we suddenly find
that we have wandered from our path. And it
becomes a matter of no slight anxiety, as we are
unguarded among these hostile tribes. Evening
came on apace, darkness gathered around us, and
the lights from the Bedouin watchfires gleamed
out from the mountain side.
"Our dragoman shouts and sounds his whistle,
but no answer is returned. At length we fired
a signal gun, and were rejoiced to hear the echo
come back from our tents in the distance. We
hastened thither, and found them pitched near
the ruins of the ancient Jericho. As we drew
near we were met by a company of women from
a neighboring village, who had seen the American flag floating from the tents, and hearing that
a Sultana would arrive, had come to greet the
lady of our party (Mrs. Prime) with a welcome
song. It was truly a remarkable specimen of
native melody. They also demanded a backshish,




FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA.          199
and at the same time insisted upon being admitted to the tent that they might see the unveiled
face of their fair sister. Thus gratified, they
retired and left us undisturbed for the night.
"In the morning we walked out to search for
traces of ancient Jericho, and discovered the
remains of an old fountain and finely wrought
mosaic pavement, indicating that a city of some
magnificence had formerly occupied this site. An
old dilapidated ruin is also pointed out as the
house of Zaccheus where'our Saviour abode
with him and brought salvation to his house,'
when he passed through Jericho. We then set
out to visit the fountain of Elisha, a half hour
distant. It bursts forth from underneath a large
mound at the base of the mountain, and is a
beautiful fountain of sweet and pleasant water.
Its stream produces vegetation and flowers in
luxuriant abundance as it flows over the plain.
Originally the water was quite unfit for domestic
purposes or irrigation, causing death and sterility,
until the fountain was miraculously healed by the
prophet Elisha, who'went forth unto the spring
of the waters and cast salt there, and said, Thus
saith the Lord, I have healed these waters: there
shall not be from thence any more death or barren land.'
"Thus according to the word of the Lord, it
possesses peculiar virtue in producing vegetation,




200        MOUNT OF TEMPTATION.
and spreads fertility and verdure over the plain,
well nigh as far as the eye can reach. Indeed as
the waters were bubbling forth, the birds singing
in the trees, and many wild flowers were in
bloom around, it seemed quite like an earthly
paradise. We were then viewing the scene of a
perpetual miracle, reaching from the days of
Elisha to the present, and yielding to these
deadly waters a life-giving power to make the
barren land bloom with beauty and rejoice as the
garden of the Lord. I could not but feel that it
was greatly fitted to confirm and strengthen our
faith in the miracles of Scripture history.
" Then we rode along the base of Mount Quarantana, a bold and precipitous peak that rises twelve
or fifteen hundred feet above the plain. This is
described as the point where'Jesus was led up
of the Spirit into the wilderness to be tempted of
the devil,' and when he had successfully resisted
the assaults of the Evil One,'behold angels
came and ministered unto him.' The mountain
side is filled with grottoes and caves cut in the
rock, the dwelling-places of pious monks who
formerly fled here from the temptations of the
world. They found, however, that the old tempter was in this wilderness, still seeking whom he
might destroy, and that we must escape the
world before we can escape the wiles of the
ad /rsary.




BROOK CHERITH.            201
"Next we came to a wild rocky ravine that
opens through the mountain.  Down this the
brook Cherith winds its way to the valley, and
here the prophet Elijah'hid himself at the command of the Lord by the brook Cherith, that is
before Jordan.''And the ravens brought him
bread and flesh in the morning, and bread and
flesh in the evening; and he drank of the brook.'
We were thus viewing the scene of another
miracle of Bible history, and felt the presence of
the God of Elijah beside the waters of the brook
Cherith. An old monk has cut his cell high up
in the rock, and dwelt there in imitation of the
prophet. Ascending thence by an ancient paved
road, we reach the mountain summit and take
our last view of the valley of the Jordan, the
Dead Sea, and the mountains round about. On
the way the place is pointed out where'a certain
man going down from Jerusalem to Jericho fell
among thieves, and the good Samaritan had compassion on him, and set him on his own beast,
and brought him to an inn.' The road here certainly appears as though it had always been infested with thieves and robbers, and on this
account was doubtless selected as the scene of the
parable. Four armed Bedouins now came suddenly upon us in the pass, and we at first feared
the fate of the former traveller. We, however,
made the salutation of friendship to them, and




202           BROOK CHERITH.
they immediately returned it and acted as our
guard by the way. Thence we came to Bethany,
and crossing the Mount of Olives, entered once
more within the Holy City."




CHAPTER XVIII.
FROM JERUSALEM TO DAMASCUS.
MR. RIGHTER left Jerusalem March 10th, having on the same morning met a number of Christian friends at Bishop Gobat's study, and having
persuaded them to form a Committee of the Evangelical Alliance with Bishop Gobat as Chairman
He gives the following account of his journey to
Damascus:
"BEYROOT, April 8, 1856.
"From  Jerusalem  we journeyed northward,
and came to Bethel, or, House of God, where
Jacob saw in his dream a ladder set upon the
earth, and the top of it reached to heaven, and
behold the angels of God ascended and descended
upon it, and behold the Lord stood above it, and
said:'I am the Lord God of Abraham, thy
father, and the God of Isaac: the land whereon
thou liest, to thee will I give it, and to thy seed..
And Jacob awaked out of his sleep, and he was
afraid and said, How dreadful is this placeI this
is none other but the house of God, and this is the




204         GERIZIM AND EBAL.
gate of heaven... And he called the name of that
place Bethel.'
" Passing by way of Shiloh, where the ark and
tabernacle long continued, we next arrived at Nablous, the ancient Shechem. Near by is Jacob's
well, where our Saviour sat wearied with his journey, and as the woman of Samaria came to draw
water, he discoursed to her of the water of everlasting life. \On the right rises Ebal, the Mount
of Cursing, and on the left Gerizim, the Mount of
Blessing, whereon the Samaritans built a temple
and worshipped God, in opposition to the Jews at
Jerusalem. And here the small remnant that is
left still go up four times a year to offer sacrifice
and worship. They live entirely distinct; and as
of old,'the Jews have no dealings with the Samaritans.'
"In the morning we ascended an eminence,
and, looking to the east, saw Ramothgilead beyond Jordan, where Moses set before the Israelites'a blessing and a curse,' and charged them to
place the blessing upon Mount Gerizim, and the
curse upon Mount Ebal.'Are they not on the
other side Jordan, by the way where the sun
goeth down, in the land of the Canaanites?'
This Joshua afterward did, when they entered in
to possess the land, placing'half of them over
against Mount Gerizim, and half of them over
against Mount Ebal,' as Moses, the servant of the




NAZARETH.              205
Lord, had commanded before.'And he read all
the words of the law, the blessings and the
cursings, according to all that is written in the
book of the law.'  And all the people answered
Amen. It was most interesting to view and realize this whole scene, spread out like a picture
before us.
"We then journeyed on, and in half an hour
came to the hill of Samaria. Here stood Herod's
ivory palace, and this sensual monarch reigned in
all his ambitious splendor. Here the daughter of
Herodias, Herod's brother's wife, danced before
him on his birthday, and pleased Herod. Whereupon he promised to give her whatsoever she
would ask, even to the half of his kingdom: and
at her request Herod sent, and beheaded John in
prison, and his head was brought in a charger,
and given to the damsel. More than sixty massive columns, that formed the long colonnade in
front of Herod's palace, are still standing on the
hillside of Samaria. Thence, crossing the great
plain of Esdraelon, and ascending the steep hill side
that bounds it on the north, we came to the town
of Nazareth. It is beautifully situated in a basin,
encompassed by hills that command a fine view
of the country round. Here the angel Gabriel
was sent from God to predict unto Mary the birth
of an infant Saviour,' who should be called great,
the Son of the Highest. And the Lord God shall
18




206             MISSIONARIES.
give unto him the throne of his father David, and
he shall reign over the house of Jacob for ever,
and of his kingdom there shall be no end.' The
fountain is near by, where it is said the annunciation was made by the divine messenger.. After
the flight into Egypt, we read that' Joseph,' being
warned of God in a dream that Herod was dead,
arose, and took the young child and his mother,
and came and dwelt in a city called Nazareth; that
it might be fulfilled which was spoken by the
prophets, He shall be called a Nazarene.' Here
our Saviour spent nearly thirty years of his life,
and these scenes were all familiar to him. To
Nazareth also he first came after his baptism and
temptation, and entered into the synagogue on the
Sabbath day, and from the book of the prophet
Esaias preached the acceptable year of the Lord.
"There are two missionaries of the English
Church Missionary Society established here. They
have a school numbering forty-one children, of
whom thirty are Protestants, six Greeks, four
Latins, and one Armenian. The Scriptures in
the Old and New Testaments are used as a textbook.  During the last year fifteen Bibles in
Arabic and six in Italian have been sold and distributed among the people. They have now decided, however, to confine themselves entirely to
the sale of Scriptures, and no longer give them
gratuitously as heretofore. Since, about twenty




SEA OF GALILEE.           207
Arabic Bibles have recently been collected in the
convent, and burned by the Catholic priests. As
the leaves were crackling in the flames, they shouted,'This is the voice of the devil.' Notwithstanding, there is an increased desire for the Scriptures
among all classes. Even the Catholics would have
the Bible, but for the prohibition of the priests.
Nazareth has a population of about 4,500, as follows: Moslems, 2,300; Greeks, 1,000; Latins,
500; Maronites, 200; Greek Catholics, 250; Protestants, 100.
"We set out on our journey the next day,
crossing the summit of Mount Tabor, and in the
evening arrived at Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee.
" This was, to me, one of the most interesting
localities in the Holy Land. Around these shores
the Saviour loved to dwell, and here most of his
mighty works were done.  Simon Peter, and
Andrew his brother, James the son of Zebedee,
and John his brother, were fishermen of this sea,
and were called thence by our Saviour to follow
him. On this lake he came walking to. them on
the water; and here, when the winds and waves
arose, he stilled the tempest with his word, saying,'Peace, be still;' and suddenly there was a
great calm. On a mountain near by he miraculously fed the multitude of 4,000 men with'seven
loaves and a few little fishes;' and upon another
delivered his sermon on the mount to his disciples.




208          TRANSFIGURATION.
Here stood Capernaum, Chorazin, and Bethsaida,
whose terrible overthrow the Saviour predicted
because of their unbelief, and their ruined sites
only remain to attest the truth of his prophecy.
We spent a delightful Sabbath on the shores of
the Sea of Galilee, and joined in the worship of
our Divine Redeemer, who walked here clothed
in humanity. Tiberias is one of the holy cities
of the Jews, and they are miserable and bigoted
in the extreme.  No missionary lives among
them, and no Scriptures have been distributed.
I called upon a Greek priest, and had a pleasant
interview. He wished a few copies of the Scriptures for his people.
" In two days more across the hills and along
the valley of the Jordan, we came to Banias, the
ancient Cesarea Philippi.  Here we traced the
last footsteps of our Saviour in the north of Palestine. It was pleasant, also, to leave the Holy
Land with the scene of the transfiguration impressed last upon the mind; for it was doubtless
upon one of these mountains near by that this
sublime event occurred.' When Jesus came into
the coasts of Cesarea Philippi, he asked his disciples, Whom do men say that I, the son of man,
am?''Then he showed unto his disciples that
he must go unto Jerusalem, and suffer many
things of the elders and chief priests and scribes,
and be killed, and be raised again the third day;'




DAMASCUS.              209
and he also spake of his coming' in the glory of
his Father, with his angels; and then he shall
reward every man according to his works.' Immediately following this conversation as related
by Matthew, it is said:' And after six days Jesus
taketh Peter, James, and John his brother, and
bringeth them up into a high mountain apart, and
was transfigured before them: and his face did
shine as the sun, and his raiment was white as
the light. And, behold, there appeared unto
them Moses and Elias talking with him.... Behold, a bright cloud overshadowed them: and behold a voice out of the cloud, which said, This is
my beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased:
hear ye him.' Such was our last view of the
Saviour in the Holy Land-transfigured, glorified, as he will come again to judge the world,
and bring his redeemed ones to reign with him in
heaven.
" Then we crossed the Anti-Lebanon range of
mountains, and in two days more reached Damascus. Here I met with two missionaries of the
Irish Presbyterian Church, the Rev. Messrs. Robeson and Porter, and three American missionaries
of the Associate Reformed Presbyterian Church,
Dr. Paulding and the Rev. Messrs. Frazer and
Lansing. They are laboring harmoniously, side
by side, in the same field, to spread the Bible and
preach the Gospel among the vast multitudes of
18*




210               SCHOOLS.
this city. Miss Dales of Philadelphia, is also associated with them in the missionary work. Damascus is said to contain a population of 125,000;
viz. Moslems, 100,000; Greeks (speaking Arabic),
8,000; Jews, 5,000; Greek  Catholics, 8,000;
and a few Armenians, Maronites, Druses, and
Syrians.
" There have been sold during the last year 259
Arabic Scriptures, and thirty-seven copies in Hebrew, Turkish, and English. The-school for boys
numbers thirty-seven, principally from the Greeks.
I was much gratified in attending a Bible class of
Greek boys instructed by the Rev. Mr. Porter.
He examined them in their regular course of lessons on the seventeenth and eighteenth chapters
of Isaiah, upon the subject of the burden of Damascus and Egypt. They appeared very intelligent and much interested in the Scriptures. I
also visited the girls' school under the charge of
Miss Dales: they repeated portions of the Psalms
and New Testament very readily and well, and
seemed delighted to study their lessons from the
Bible.  The Greek Patriarch has also a large
school, in which the Scriptures are taught. I
called upon him in behalf of the Bible cause, and
he appeared much interested to hear of the Bible
work and the progress of religious liberty at Constantinople.
"There is a new interest with regard to the




THE BIBLE.               211
Scriptures springing up at Damascus. A resolution was taken at their last station meeting to
establish a Bible depot in the principal street of the
city. This surely is encouraging in the ancient
stronghold of Moslem intolerance and fanaticism.
"Returning by way of Baalbeck, the ancient
temple of Baal, I arrived at Beyroot in time to
attend the annual meeting of the Syrian mission,
and present the subject of the Bible interests before the brethren of all the stations assembled in
their general council. They gave me a very kind
reception, and assigned a special hour for listening
to statements respecting the Bible work at Constantinople, in Egypt, Palestine, and Syria. They
also, on their part, presented encouraging reports
from each of their fields of labor.
"The population to which their missionary effort is directed, in the towns and villages on and
around Mount Lebanon, consists of the following
classes: Moslems, 51,000; Greeks, 45,500; Maronites, 24,000; Druses, 15,500. Their principal
success, however, is attained among the Greeks.
They have established Protestant schools at the
different stations, in which 550 boys and 250 girls
are taught the Scriptures.
"There have been distributed and sold by this
mission during the last year, 532 Arabic Scriptures, five Turkish, nine Hebrew, and two Syriac,
The American Bible Society have in press at Bey



212       DR. SMITH'S TRANSLATION.
root a new and complete translation of the whole
Bible in Arabic, by the Rev. Dr. Eli Smith. The
printing of the Old Testament with references has
proceeded as far as Exodus, and the New as far
as the eighth chapter of Matthew. The work must
necessarily progress slowly by reason of the extreme accuracy of the translator and editor. Dr.
Smith gave me the following account of the
thorough system he pursues with regard to it:
" The translation is first made directly from the
original by one of the native helpers, to give the
style of the Arabic. This Dr. Smith works over
with all the critical assistance of books he can command. He then calls in another native helper,
and they criticise together. A fair copy of this is
made. He then goes over the whole de novo with
the assistance of a third native helper; after which
another copy is transcribed, and the work is put
in press. Twenty or thirty proofs of this are
struck off, and sent to the bishop of Jerusalem, to
Cairo, Damascus, to all the stations in Syria, and
several natives for examination. By this means
the translator learns what words or phrases may
not be understood in any of the sectional dialects.
In twenty or thirty days these proofs are all
received, their suggestions examined, and a corrected copy prepared for printing. Two important points are thus gained-the correctness of the
version, and the approbation of all the different




DR. SMITH'S TRANSLATION.       213
societies concerned.  The Arabic, like other
Eastern languages, has both a classic usage and
modern dialect. The doctor follows the classic
style in language and grammar, but only so far
as it is intelligible to the common people. It
will, consequently, be understood by the immense Arabic-speaking population  of Syria,
Egypt, Mosul, Bagdad, and India.
" He places various readings in the margin, as
in the English version. Such is the carefully
elaborate and accurate system pursued, to make
this the most perfect translation of the Bible in
any language in the world. The first translation
has already been made of the Pentateuch, the
seven minor prophets, and the entire New Testament. It will, however, require five or six years
to complete the whole at the present rate of progress. Yet the demand is so urgent, that a resolution has been taken to suspend for the present
the Old, and hasten forward the New Testament
as fast as possible. I deeply regret to inform our
Board that the health of Dr. Smith is very much
impaired by his arduous labors, so that he will be
obliged to discontinue his duties for the summer.
The earnest prayer of all is that he may be
speedily restored and spared, by the blessing of
God, to complete this great work of his life.
" I also had the pleasure of meeting with my
excellent predecessor, the Rev. S. H. Calhoun, at




214               MISS DIX.
Beyroot, and conferring with him in regard to the
Bible work. He sends his kind remembrance to
all his old friends.
"My visit to Egypt, Palestine, and Syria, has
thus been of the greatest interest, and I trust will
be productive of the most lasting and important
results in behalf of the Bible Cause in the East."
"Affectionately, yours,
" 0. N. RIGHTER."
On Thursday, April 19, he notes in his journal,
"In sight of the domes and minarets of Stamboul,
and thankful for a safe return from a long and
happy journey."
The spring and summer were spent at Constantinople in the work of Bible distribution, and in
laying and carrying out his plans for spreading it
over the East. He visited the hospitals as before, taking with him the word of life for the
poor soldiers. There was no difficulty in gaining
access to them, and his visits were most gratefully
received. On one of these occasions he accompanied the philanthropist, Miss Dix, who was
then in the East, on her mission of mercy to the
asylums of the unfortunate. During the month
of August he had an attack of fever which confined him to his room for many days, and pre



MR. SPENCE.             215
vented much active service during the month.
The physician pronounced the seat of his disease
to be his liver, and it is impossible to say what
connexion it may have had with his subsequent
fatal illness.
During all his residence at Constantinople his
intercourse with the missionaries was a source of
the highest mutual pleasure, and his relations to
the Hon. Mr. Spence, Minister from the United
States to Turkey, were of the most friendly and
agreeable character, as will appear from the letters which will be found in the concluding part
of this volume, and which bear the highest testimony to Mr. Righter's worth, and to the estima.
tion in which he was held.




CHAPTER XIX.
JOURNEY TO NINEVEH.
ON the first df September he became acquainted
with the Rev. Mr. Jones, Secretary of the Turkish Missions Aid Society, who was about to visit
the interior stations of Asia Minor. Mr. R. almost immediately determined on joining him in
furtherance df the great object which had called
him to the East. Accordingly he made his arrangements for the departure, which, owing to
the detention of the vessel, was deferred until the
16th.  In the meanwhile he mentions in his
journal, under date of September 14, attending
at Pera the baptism of the first Christian Mohammedan child, Henry Julius Williams, by Rev.
Dr. Goodell, at the chapel of the Dutch Embassy,
as an occasion of deep interest. He took his
departure from Constantinople for the last time,
as it afterwards appeared, September 16th. A
beautiful rainbow marked the morning on which
he set sail, and hastily bidding his friends farewell, he went on board the steamer Imperial
Eagle, with the Rev. Mr. Jones.




MEETING.               217
Mr. R. gives the following account of his
journey:
" We left Constantinople on the 16th and sailed
two days across the Black Sea to Samsoun upon
the coast. Here we took horses and rode three
days to Marsovan, for several years a missionary
station of the American Board. The Protestant
pastor, Hohanes, and one of the native brethren
came out to meet us two hours before our arrival,
and gave us a cordial welcome. And as we
reached the city, many Armenians hastened to
give us their salutations as brethren in Christ. It
was most pleasant to be thus kindly welcomed as
Christians in a strange land.
" In the evening a special meeting was held, and
I stated to them the object of my visit-to furnish the Bible in every language to all who desired
it in the East. They expressed their thankfulness
very sincerely, and wished me to convey their
gratitude to the American Bible Society for giving them  the pure Bible and Gospel in the
modern Armenian language, which all can understand, that each one for himself may read God's
Word and be instructed in the way of everlasting salvation. The next day I visited the booki
store, near the bazaar, in the central street of tHi
city. Here the Scriptures are publicly kept for
sale in Armenian, Turkish, and Greek. There
19




218                SHEIK.
have been sold during the last year, twenty-four
Armenian and eleven Greek Bibles and Testaments. The demand for the Scriptures is also
increasing. I received an order for the following: Sixty Graco-Turkish Testaments; twenty
Turkish Bibles; twenty Turkish Psalms; thirty
large Armenian Bibles; thirty Armenian Testaments; forty Armeno-Turkish Testaments, making 200 copies of the Scriptures for the ensuing
year. We then visited the Protestant school,
which numbers forty children. We found them
reading and studying the Scriptures. At morning and evening prayer also, the Old and New
Testaments are read and explained. I likewise
made a visit to the native Armenian school. The
teacher received me very politely, said he had
the Bible and Gospel in the Armenian language,
which he taught daily to his pupils; and also,
that he desired an additional supply.
" We afterwards enjoyed a very interesting visit
with a sheik or chief of a sect of Dervishes (Mohammedan monks), who have a convent near
Marsovan, to- which many pilgrims resort. He
received us very politely in his library room, and
first presented his little boy to us, in token of
mutual friendship. He says he has the Bible and
Testament, and has carefully read and studied
both. He himself copied the gospel of Matthew
in manuscript several years since. He borrowed




INTERESTING CONVERSATION.       219
it by night from a friendly Turk in the seraglio,
wrote it as he could, and returned it in the daytime for fear of discovery. I asked him,' What
is your opinion of the Bible?' Said he,'It
would take me two days to tell you. The Word
of God is everlasting. You cannot cut it, cannot
burn it, cannot destroy it. It is in the world for
ever. It teaches Christ, the Gospel of love-love
to God and love to man. In Jesus we love one
another as brothers. There are three kinds of
love: first, common friendship; second, to lay
down one's life for his friends; third, to love
your enemies. All these are taught in the Bible.
There is a hidden treasure in the gospel that will be
brought to light more and more in coming time,
till it is known and prized by all the world.' I
told him that many Mussulmen in Constantinople are at present seeking for the Bible and
valuing it much, and we hope soon all will have
it. He replied,'I must not speak publicly my
sentiments now, or my head will be taken off at
once.' It was most gratifying to find him so enlightened and imbued with the spirit and love of
the Gospel. He says,' I love the gospel of John,
the beloved disciple, who fully unfolds the tender
love of Jesus. That iron yonder is cold, but
when you put it in the fire it becomes warm and
heated. So when we come together we may be
strangers at first, but our hearts soon grow warm




220              MARSOVAN.
with the love of Christ.' And as we came to
separate he embraced and kissed us affectionately,
and with tears in his eyes expressed the hope
that we might meet in heaven. He is but one of
a large class of Mussulmen in the East who are
becoming enlightened by studying the Scriptures,
but are kept from embracing Christianity through
fear of persecution and death.
" In a town named Soungoloo, twenty hours distant from Marsovan, a hojah, or Turkish teacher,
not long since became possessed of a copy of the
Scriptures. He continued to study it with much
interest, and then began to explain it to others;
and now, it is said, as many as one thousand are
interested in seeking after the truth. As we left
Marsovan, the pastor, the children, and the native
brethren accompanied us some distance on our
journey, and then took leave of us with much
thankfulness and gratitude for our visit in behalf
of the Gospel and the Bible Cause. We arrived
the same day at Amasia. Here I called upon the
Armenian archbishop, and stated to him  the
object of my mission-to furnish all, who desire
it, with the Word of God, without note or comment. He received me with great politeness, but
said that all his people were supplied with the
Scriptures.
"In two days more we reached Tocat, and
were again welconed by a delegation of the mis



TOCAT.                221
sionaries and the native brethren an hour before
our arrival in the city. This is in many respects
the most important interior station of the mission.
The Rev. Mr. Van Lennep has here a theological
seminary, in which ten pious young men are preparing to preach the Gospel. In vacations they
go out into all the towns and villages round about
and labor as Bible colporteurs and Scripture
readers among the native population. In a city
ten hours distant they remained up all night, on
one occasion, in arguing from the Scriptures and
establishing the truth by the Word of God.
The next day is the Sabbath, and I was much
interested in attending their native services in
Armenian and Turkish. In the evening a special
meeting was called, and I explained to them the
object of my visit, and the desire of the American
Bible Society to aid in supplying the Scriptures
in all the languages of the East. I also gave them
an account of my visit to the soldiers in the Crimea,
to the Copts in Egypt, and of my journey in Palestine and Syria. They were deeply interested,
and desired me to thank'that great and good
Society for remembering also the Armenians in
Asia Minor.' The Protestant Church numbers
twenty-five members, and the congregation usually
from forty to sixty. There is also a Sabbath
school and day school, in which the Scriptures are
taught to the children. The next day I visited
19*




222      GRAVE OF HENRY MARTIN.
the Bible depot, a large room in the principal
street of the city. There have been sold during
the last year, ninety-seven copies of the Scriptures
and parts of Scriptures in Armenian, Greek, and
Turkish. One hundred and ninety-three copies
have also been distributed by the colporteurs in
the city, and the towns, and villages around.
Here, likewise, the demand is increasing: two
hundred additional copies have just been ordered
from Constantinople to supply the depository.
" In the afternoon I made a visit to the grave
of Henry Martin, who died at Tocat, in 1812. It
was most interesting to stand beside the tomb of
that devoted missionary, who' labored so' many
years in the East, and translated the Holy Scriptures into Hindostanee and Persian.' The East
India Company are about to erect an elegant
monument to his memory, in the grounds of the
American mission, where his remains will be removed and deposited. I have just held an interview, this evening, with a converted Mussulman
from Aintab. He obtained a copy of the New
Testament at Beyroot some years ago, became
convinced of the truth of the Gospel, and has
since distributed more than one hundred copies
among the Kuzul Bashis Koords and Turks
around Arabkir. He has changed his name from
Mohammed to Kreker, or Gregory, and gone into
all the towns and villages of that region, every



LETTER TO HIS MOTHER.         223
where preaching the Word.  I inquired his
opinion of the Bible.' I believe it to be the Word
of God,' said he;'and Christ is the Son of God,
who took upon himself our nature to save sinners.
This he did by his atonement and resurrection,
and afterward he sent his Holy Spirit to renew us
unto newness of life.' I asked him whence he
obtained this knowledge? He replied,'By studying the Scriptures alone.' Such is the power of
the simple Word of God, to make even a follower
of the false prophet wise unto everlasting salvation.
" He is now on his way to Constantinople, to
be baptized and fully embrace the Christian
religion.
"Faithfully and affectionately yours,
" C. N. RIGHTER."
In a letter to his mother he speaks of his visit
to the grave of Henry Martin, in a manner which
shows that he was not unprepared in thought to
find an early grave near this precious dust.
There is something deeply touching and almost
prophetic in the thoughts which he expressed
on visiting this spot.
"TOCAT, Oct. 2, 1856.
"I am now upon a journey to the interior stations of the Armenian Missions in Asia Minor,
and have time this morning only to write a hasty




224       HENRY MARTIN'S GRAVE.
note from  this most interesting place.  Here
Henry Martin lies buried-that devoted missionary in the East, who in India translated the Holy
Scriptures into Hindostanee and Persian, and died
with fever at Tocat, on his journey to Constantinople. I have this afternoon made a visit to his
grave. It was just at the hour of sunset. A
mild and mellow light was shed over the scene,
and I could not but feel my devotion quickened, and faith strengthened beside the last resting-place of this man of God, cut off in early
manhood, in the midst of his active labors, in a
far distant land. Again a voice came to me-'What thy hand findeth to do, do it with'thy
might, for in such an hour as ye think not the Son
of Man cometh.'
" Tocat is beautifully situated at the head of a
fertile valley, abounding in gardens, vineyards,
and fruit-trees of most luxuriant growth. The
missionary brethren came out to welcome us in
the name of Christ; and after we had spent a few
days with them in delightful Christian intercourse,
sent us on our way rejoicing. My travelling companion is the Rev. Henry Jones, secretary of the
Turkish Missions Aid Society, a man of devoted
piety, and an excellent Christian gentleman. Our
object is to visit all the missionary stations in
Asia Minor, to witness the work of the Lord in
connexion with the Bible cause, and the cause of




PILGRIM'S PROGRESS.          225
missions, and to establish a branch of the Evangelical Alliance as far as may be practicable at
each station.
" From Tocat we traversed the bold and rugged mountains, constantly viewing picturesque
and beautiful scenery, and in two days came to
Sivas, a second missionary station of the American Board. We were somewhat alarmed by the
reported attacks of robbers by the way, but
through the good providence of God, arrived in
safety.  The missionaries and native brethren
came out on horseback, two hours in advance, to
give us a cordial welcome. Indeed our whole
journey seems more like Pilgrim's Progress than
any I have ever yet made. The land is beautiful, and the climate most delightful. Though
there are occasional perils and dangers in the
way, yet all is'the King's country,' and must
one day be converted to Christ. At each station,
too, we hold such sweet communion and fellowship with our Christian brethren in this far off
land, as can only dwell in kindred hearts. We
are entertained in the'palace called Beautiful,'
and sleep in the' chamber of Peace,' as at times
we repose two or three days from the fatigues of
our journey. Here, in Sivas, we administered
the communion of the Lord's supper to the little
church gathered in the name of Christ, and we
did indeed sit together in heavenly places in




226               ARABKIR.
Christ Jesus, with his elect ones in this Moslem
land.  On the morrow we went on our way,
escorted by our good friends some distance on
the plain, where we parted, commending each
other to the blessing of heaven in all our labors.
" In six days, over mountains, through winding valleys and extended plains, we reached the
missionary station of Arabkir, in the borders of
the ancient Cappadocia. It is a city of gardens
in the midst of the mountains, and exceedingly
beautiful for situation. Here we were received
again by warm Christian hearts, and rejoiced to
witness their good work, and cheer them in their
arduous labors.
" We also joined in celebrating the communion
with them  and their native church, and much
enjoyed the season. The hearts of the native
converts are overflowing with love and gratitude
to those who have sent to them the Bible and
missionaries of the gospel of Christ. They crowd
around us, and shake our hands with tears in
their eyes.
"Again we pursued our journey, and at the
close of the day came down to the river Euphrates, one of the four rivers that flowed from the
Garden of Eden. It runs here with a swift current, through a narrow gorge in the mountainsa broad and noble stream. And inspiring indeed
were my first impressions in looking upon this




KHARPOOT.               227
ancient river that flowed from the paradise of our
first parents.
" Crossing the Euphrates, we spent the night at
the town of Maden, on the opposite bank. Here
also we joined in a social prayer meeting with the
little Protestant church that has received the pure
faith of the gospel through the labors of the
American missionaries. They were delighted to
be assured that we in England and America believed the same Bible and gospel with them, and
that we could hold fellowship together in the
name of a common Saviour.
" The next morning we rode on our journey
(we travel entirely on horseback in this land; there
are no roads for carriages, only mountain foot and
bridle paths), and came to Kharpoot, situated on a
fortress rock that commands a splendid view over
a wide extended plain. This is one of the more
recent missionary stations, and no church had yet
been formed. Our visit was considered a favor
able occasion for organizing a church, and we
were glad to assist in examining the candidates,
and admitting them as members of the church of
Christ. One of them was the father of a family,
with his young daughter, and another a converted
Armenian priest, who seemed to receive the truth
anew with full simplicity and sincerity of heart.
" The next day we continued our journey over
the plain, and across the rugged mountains, and




228              DIARBEKIR.
in three days reached Diarbekir, a large walled
city, situated at the head waters of the Tigris, on
the borders of the plains of Mesopotamia. We
spent another delightful Sabbath with the native
and missionary brethren here, and held sweet
communion and fellowship together. One of the
latter was an old friend of mine in college, and
we enjoyed much our visit in the recollection of
former scenes, and in relating our various experience since we separated.
" The climate is mild and genial at this season,
and the scenery varied and picturesque. Through
the kindness of the American Ambassador at
Constantinople, I have a large firman from the
Sultan, bearing his great seal, which secures us
the particular attention and entertainment of all
the Pashas and Governors on the way, so that we
are exceedingly enjoying the tour. In addition
to this, we are cheered in our visit and encouraged
in our labors at each station, and thus go forward
rejoicing in the Lord, and giving thanks at the
remembrance of his holiness.
" On the following day we took our departure
for Mosul. We are now mounted on a raft of a
hundred inflated goat skins, and glide beautifully
down the Tigris, the Hiddekel of the Scriptures,
another of the four rivers that flowed from
the Garden of Eden;'that is it which goeth
toward the east of Assyria.' A neat little house




ON THE TIGRIS.           229
of poplar poles covered with wax cloth, to protect us from the sun and rain, and fitted up with
poplomans and lined within for our comfort. A
guard of soldiers have volunteered to accompany
us, free of expense, and sleep round us at night.
Thus we float on with the current. It is the perfection of travelling without the rattling of
wheels, without dust, without steam even. The
stream floats us on night and day, and at intervals we whirl past rocks, and dash swiftly down
the rapids.  The mountains and rocks rise in
grandeur and sublimity on either side, as the
noble river winds its way through.
" We spent the Sabbath at Hassankeefa, a city
hewn out in the solid rocks like Petra in the land
of Edom. It is now crumbling to ruins, and the
miserable population live in the tombs of the
former dwellers in the rock.  Yesterday we
passed the river Chabur, the ancient Chebar, that
comes down from the mountains of Chaldea, and
flows into the Tigris. Here the Prophet Ezekiel
saw his sublime visions in the land of the Chaldeans, by the river Chebar, when the heavens
were opened and Jehovah manifested to him his
peculiar presence and glory.  I enjoyed anew
these spiritual scenes as we gazed long upon the
banks of that ancient river.
Nov. 9.-To-day at noon we are in sight of
the walls and minarets of Mosul, and Nelly
20




230              INCIDENTS.
Yonas, the tomb of the Prophet Jonah, that
covers the ruins of the ancient Nineveh,'that
great city of three days journey.'
" Thus the Lord has protected and prospered
us on our way, and followed us with goodness in
all our journey. In the words of the Psalmist
we would exclaim,' Bless the Lord, our soul: and
all that is within us, bless his holy name.'
"Yours, &c.        C. N. R."
Below are given some of the incidents of the
journey, communicated to the American Bible
Society:
" As we left Tocat, Hagop Agha, the he-ad of
the Protestant community, and all the students
of the seminary, in a body, accompanied us on
our way to a hillside that overlooks the city.
They then gathered around us in a circle, and
we commended them to God and the Bible as
their rule of faith, and the Guide of their lives,
and exhorted them to show forth the light of the
Gospel of Christ in this dark land, and -be faithful unto death, that they might receive the crown
of life at his right hand. One of their number,
in return, thanked us cordially for our visit, and
our societies for sending them the Bible and the
Gospel of salvation, and prayed that the peace of
God might abide with us on the journey, and the
blessing of heaven rest upon all our labors in the




SIVAS.                231
East. We then traversed a rugged, mountainous
region, and in two days reached Sivas, a second
missionary station of the American Board. The
brethren, as before, came out on horseback, one
hour in advance, to welcome us in the name of
Christ. The city is beautifully situated upon an
elevated plain between two ranges of limestone
hills, with a stream  of pure water flowing
through.  It contains a population of nearly
50,000; of whom 36,000 are Turks, 12,000 Armenians, and 300 Greeks. The Scriptures are
kept publicly for sale at four different points in
the city, and a new depository is about to be
opened in front of the principal bazaar. There
have been sold during the last year: Armenian
Bibles, twenty-three; Testaments, thirty-five;
Psalms, sixty-seven; Turkish Testaments, twentythree; Grseco-Turkish Testaments, ten; making
158 copies of Scriptures.
"They likewise wished a large additional supply for the coming year. I then called upon the
Armenian bishop at the monastery. He is an
amiable, venerable-looking man, and received
me with the greatest politeness:' Safa guelduig; khos guelduig;'-(You  are welcome;
most welcome). I explained to him the object
of the American Bible Society-to furnish the
Bible in all the languages of the East; stating, that'in America, every family who desires




232          PUBLIC MEETING.
it has a copy of the Bible; and American Christians desire that every family in the East may
also receive the Word of God.' He says,'This
is a very good work. Every family of my people also has, or can have the Bible if they wish.
They can receive it both in the ancient and
modern languages.'
" This was regarded as a most important
admission by an Armenian bishop in the presence
of the missionaries-that the Bible should have
free circulation among his people.
" In the afternoon a public meeting of the Protestant community was held  at the mission
chapel.  The Rev. Mr. Jones, from  England,
addressed them in relation to his society, and I,
from  America, in behalf of the Bible Cause.
They were greatly interested in the account of
our new Bible House at New York, and all the
operations of the Bible Society, of which they
had never before heard. And it was most pleasing to receive their warm expressions of gratitude
for thus receiving the Bible and the Gospel of
Christ at our hands. The next day was the Sabbath. We attended service in the native languages, and then administered the communion of
the Lord's Supper to the little church gathered
here; and it was an occasion of deep interest to
sit around the table of our Lord with these
brethren in a strange land.




KOORDS.               233
"In  the afternoon, two of the Kuzelbash
Koords, from  a village twelve hours distant,
called upon us. One is the son of the sheik, or
chief man of the village.  They expressed a
desire to become Protestants, and embrace the
Gospel of Christ. I asked them why they wished
to change their religion. They replied: we formerly worshipped a cane, or staff, with which the
sheik, or priest, beat us, to drive away our sins.
We used to meet once a week and receive this
beating, and repeat certain incantations.  Then
we confessed our sins to the sheik, and once a
year offered a sacrifice of sheep to this cane. We
no longer believe that this can save us. A kitab
(good book) taught us better.'
"' Whence did you receive this Book?'
"'We know not,' they say.'It teaches us
that Christ is alive, and the other prophets are
dead. It teaches us to love our enemies, and
pray for them. It is ten years since we began to
learn these truths.'
"' What is the name of this Book?'
"' We call it Boyurook' (book of authority or
command), they answer.' A khojah, or teacher;
reads to us from this Book, the sheik explains it,
and we then pray to God through Christ, as his
Book teaches.'
"I tell them we also have the same Book in
America, and call it' Ingil " (Gospel of Salvation).
20*




234            CONVERSATION.
" They answer,' We would be delighted to
have a good missionary from America come and
live among us, to instruct us in this way of salvation. We are called Protestants by the Koords,
and our enemies beat us and drive away our
flocks because we will not worship idols as they
do.'
" We tell them they must expect to suffer persecution for believing in Christ; but if they are
faithful, God will deliver them from the hand of
their enemies; that they must return to their village, and preach this same Gospel of Love and
Salvation even to their persecutors.
"' Inshallah' (God be praised)! they both exclaim. They tell us that 500 others are ready to
receive the Gospel with them, but for fear of the
savage Koords. We then promised to call and
represent their case of persecution to the Turkish
authorities, that they might enjoy liberty of conscience to believe in the Bible and Gospel of
Christ, as the late firman of the Sultan declares
to all the subjects of his empire. Such is the
influence of a single unknown Testament, to
teach these poor Kuzelbash, in the interior of
Asia Minor, the folly of their idol worship, and
lead them:to believe in Christ as their only
Saviour from sin. On the morrow we set out on
ourururney. The brethren accompanied us some
distance on the plain, and then bade us farewell,




SOWING SEED.             235
commending our way to the Lord. We spent the
night at the small Armenian village of Oolash.
The priest and chourbagi (chief man of the village) called to see us, and the conversation soon
turned upon the Bible and Testament.  Our
dragoman, who is a zealous Protestant, at once
enlisted, and preached the Gospel to the little
company for two hours with much earnestness.
We trust that some fruit may spring from the
good seed sown by the way in that quiet village.
In another village where we passed the night, the
moodir, or Turkish governor, inquired if we were
travelling through the country to make all the
people Protestants.  We answered, that'our
object was to give the Bible and preach the Gospel to all who were willing to hear and receive
it.' To our great surprise he replied,' This is
according to the Sultan's decree.'  We were
delighted thus to find that such liberal ideas were
gradually penetrating into the interibr of the
empire.
" In four days more we reached Arabkir, a city
of gardens in the midst of the mountains. It contains a population of 30,000, of whom 20,000 are
Mussulmans, and 10,000 Armenians. There are
also 300 enrolled in the Protestant community.
This is a most important centre of missionary
operations. Twenty-two native helpers are employed; of these, six are preachers, two are en



236            THE SCHOOLS.
gaged at the Bible depots, two are colporteurs,
and twelve are teachers.  All are more or less
engaged in the work of circulating the Scriptures.
There are six schools, containing one hundred
pupils, in which the Bible and Testament are
made the chief books of instruction. I also visited
the Bible shop in the midst of the business bazaars
of the city, and found there a large Armenian and
Turkish Bible lying open, that any who passed
by might read the Word of God. There have
been disposed of from thence, within the last five
months, eighteen Bibles and one hundred and
three Testaments. I likewise visited two of the
schools, and found the children diligently studying the Bible and Testament,'and learning the
way of salvation.. Then I called upon the chief
vartabed of the Armenian Church. He received
me very cordially, and said,'he taught all his
people that they must have the Bible and read it.
He had a copy of our Modern Armenian Bible,
and would examine it, and if the translation were
correct, he would at once recommend it to his
people.' He was desirous also to have the Word
circulated among the Kuzelbash. It was our
duty to endeavor to enlighten and Christianize
them. He wishes to preach only what is found
in the Bible, and prays that Koords and Mussulmans may all receive the truth as it is in Jesus,
and be made happy in the love of Christ.




NATIVE PREACHER.            237
"As I leave, he presses me warmly by the
hand, and says,' If we both live in the faith of
the Gospel, we will meet again in heaven.' He
seemed to be a man of excellent liberal spirit for
a chief ecclesiastic in the Armenian Church.
"We afterward visited the school under his
direction, and found a class of larger boys translating the Bible from the ancient to the modern
language, which  they  can understand.   The
teacher says that ours is a correct translation, and
does not differ from the ancient version. Thus
the Bible is penetrating among the Armenians
in their schools and families, and we trust will
soon bring them from the darkness and deadness
of superstition to the light and life of the Gospel
of Christ. I was much interested in the experience of one of the ilative preachers. He first obtained a copy of the ancient Armenian Bible at
Aleppo: with this he retired to a cave for two
years, and fasted and prayed. Then Christ revealed himself to him, and told him to go forth
and preach repentance, and keep the Sabbath day
holy. In obedience to this command he would
hold up a serpent, and in the name of the Lord
beseech all men to repent. At that time he suffered much persecution; now, these old things
have passed away, and all things become new.
He is an earnest and devoted preacher of the Gospel in all the towns and villages around, and,




238         PROTESTANT CHURCH.
from his faithfulness and zeal, is called' the Apostle to the Gentiles.' I was greatly pleased to find
the Bible work of so much interest and importance at Arabkir, on the borders of the ancient
Cappadocia.
" The next day we set out upon our journey,
escorted on the way by one of the missionaries
and several of the native brethren. We passed
through a finely cultivated country, abounding in
ploughed fields and growing grain, and in six
hours came down to the river Euphrates, one of
the four rivers that flowed from the garden of
Eden. It here runs with a swift current through
a rugged gorge, winding among the mountains,
Crossing the stream in a primitive scow, with a
long rudder that sweeps through the current, we
reached the town of Maden, picturesquely situated
on the opposite bank. Here a little church of
Protestants is gathered through the labors of the
American missionaries, and they have a small
depot for Bibles and Testaments in one corner of
their chapel. It was the evening for their social
prayer meeting, and they soon all came in to bid
us welcome. Then their native preacher conducted the service, reading from the Scriptures
and offering prayer. And afterward we addressed
them in behalf of the Bible and Mission Cause.
They listened with deep interest, and seemed
greatly encouraged to feel that Christians in Eng



KHARPOOT.                239
land and America received with them the same
pure Bible and Gospel of Salvation.
" It was a peculiar delight to join in the worship of God with these brethren on the banks of
the river Euphrates.
"In the morning early we rode over the mountains filled with silver ore, and came to a fine hill
country abounding in springs of water, and villages perched upon the hillsides. Thence crossing
a fertile plain, and ascending the steep hillside,
we reached the fortress-built town of Kharpoot,
that overlooks the whole plain and the hundreds
of Armenian villages around. The view  was
most beautiful, as we arrived at the hour of sunset and twilight in the East.
" Kharpoot is one of the more recent missionary stations of the American Board, and is in the
centre of a large Armenian population. There
are thirty cities within this field, and 366 villages
on  the plain, containing 100,000 Armenians,
20,000 Koords, and 5,000 Kuzelbash, all accessible to missionary effort. The city is the seat of
the pashalic, and a mart of traffic from all parts
of Asia Minor. I was glad to find the Scriptures
kept publicly for sale, in various languages, near
the principal business bazaar: here Turks, Armenians, and Koords from the mountains, come
to purchase the Bible. There have been sold,
during the last year, twenty-two modern Armenian




240             BLIND BOY.
Bibles and seventy-one Testaments; five Ancient
Armenian and two Turkish Testaments; eight
Koordish Gospels; fifty Armenian and five Turkish Psalms; and four English, one Arabic, and
one French Testament; making 169 copies of the
Scriptures. I visited the two Protestant schools,
numbering thirty-three pupils, in which the Scriptures are daily taught. Their system is to commit verses of Scripture, and repeat them on the
Sabbath. One little boy, five years old, recited
for me nearly the whole of the first chapter of
Matthew correctly and well. Also a blind boy
seemed quite in advance of the rest in his knowledge of the Scriptures. It was interesting to
know that the Bible is likewise taught to the
blind in this far off land. Thus the children are
instructed to meet and overthrow the corrupt
doctrines of the Oriental churches, and defend a
pure faith from the Word of God. It is worthy
of remark, that the Bible is always made the
standard of appeal in every discussion among the
common people. In the evening we attended the
examination of candidates preparatory to organizing the first Protestant church at Kharpoot. Ten
presented themselves for admission. I was much
pleased to find all not only sound in doctrine,
but also spiritually acquainted with the Scriptures.
"The next day was the Sabbath. In the morning we attended service in the new chapel near




ORGANIZING A CHURCH.          241
Castle Rock. It was filled with a large and attentive congregation; and after sermon, I briefly
addressed them in relation to the Bible Cause, enforcing upon them the duty of circulating the Bible and preaching the Gospel in all the towns and
villages around. In the afternoon a still larger
audience assembled in the Mission Chapel, to witness the formation of the first evangelical church
in the city. The ten candidates then came forward, gave their assent to the confession of faith,
and were all baptized and received into membership of the Church of Christ. Among the number was a converted Armenian priest, who became
convinced of the truth by studying the Bible, and
now received the Gospel anew, in full sincerity
and simplicity of heart. Afterward the Rev. Mr.
Jones and myself administered to them the communion of the Lord's Supper; and it was a peculiar delight to sit down for the first time with
these elect ones around the table of Christ, and
partake of the emblems of his death and atonement for the sins of the world. We trust and
pray that this may be the beginning of kindling
again the pure light of the Gospel of salvation in
all this land. In the evening a Turkish effendi,
wearing a large white turban, called to see us.
He said,'I have a Testament, and am reading it
with much interest; but I cannot understand the
doctrine of the Trinity.' We said to him, that
21




242           BIBLE BURNING.
we first proved that the Bible was from God; and
as this doctrine was revealed in the Bible, we believed its truth; though it might be above the
comprehension of our finite minds. He received
the remark in silence, and went his way to read
again this wondrous Book. The Rev. Mr. Dunmore has also a class of ten young men, to whom
he is giving a course of Biblical lectures, and preparing them to go forth and distribute the Bible,
and preach the Gospel in all the region round about.
We were much interested in the encouraging developments of the missionary work at Kharpoot,
and both remarked how entirely it was begun and
carried on through the instrumentality of the Bible.
At Diarbekir the native brethren called in to
see us, and one of them related the beginning of
the good work in the city. A case of Bibles was
first sent to Mardin. There they were seized by
a rich Catholic merchant, and locked up to keep
them from being circulated.  The pasha afterwards executed this man in order to obtain his
property, and the Bibles were thus set at liberty,
and brought to Diarbekir for sale. A  Syrian
dyer bought one of them, and began to read it
aloud at night. This interested one of his workmen, who also obtained a copy, and commenced
reading it; then others of the people, till the
bishop became alarmed, and ordered all the
Bibles to be collected and burned. Still, some




PERSECUTIONS.             243
were not given up, and the good work went forward, until one of the Syrian bishops himself
renounced the errors of his church. lie afterwards went to England, and brought out a large
number of Bibles, and put them in circulation
among his people. Much persecution followed;
still the work advanced, in the providence of
God, till many were awakened to the truth, and
some have remained firm to the end.
"It was most interesting to hear these persecuted ones themselves relate their simple story,
and tell what they had suffered for the sake of
the Bible and the Gospel of Christ.
" I also called upon the lnenian bishop. He
was a venerable old man, with a flowing white
beard, and received me with-thy greatest politeness. I expressed to him th   sire of the American Bible Society to furnish every family with the
Bible in the modern languagiehich all can understand.  He replied,'It is eyi, chok eyi,good, very good.' The bible teaches us the way
to heaven. There is one Saviour for English,
Americans, and Armenians. Through the blood
of Christ we all find salvation, and we are brothers in Christ Jesus.' He says,' It is a shame if
every family who can read does not have the
Bible.'  As we leave, he presses us warmly by
the hand, and remarks,'In Christ, I hope we
may meet in heaven.'




244             BIBLE CLASS.
"It is pleasant thus to find that more enlightened views are beginning to prevail among the
patriarchs and bishops of the Oriental churches, in
reference to the circulation of the Bible and fellowship of the Gospel.  On the Sabbath we
attended the large Bible class held in the mission
chapel. There were 140 present, seated upon
their knees in Eastern style. After the lesson, I
addressed them  in behalf of the Bible Cause.
They listened with tears in their eyes, and then
crowded around to shake me by the hand and
thank me and our Society for sending them the
Bible and Gospel to teach them of Christ and the
way of eternal salvatin; and it was a scene of
deep interest, as Syrians, Chaldeans, Greeks, and
Armenians, all came forward to express their
gratitude in the Uame, and for the love of
Christ.           a
" In the afternoon, we celebrated with them the
communion of the Lord's Supper, and truly sat
together in heavenly places in Christ Jesus, calling to mind his sufferings and death upon the cross
for our salvation.
" One hundred and sixty copies of the Scriptures
have been sold and distributed from this station
during the last nine months. They also send out
native helpers to sell and distribute the Scriptures
in the towns and villages around, and to make
tours in the mountains of Koordistan. Thus,




CITY OF ROCK.             245
through various means, the Word of God is having free course and is glorified in this ancient
land.
"At Hassankeifa, the city hewn in rock, I
counted seven large mosques, in the finest style
of Saracenic architecture, now crumbling to ruins
near the city. As I sat among these ruins reading the Bible, one of the Turkish soldiers, who
had taken passage with us upon the raft, stepped
up to me, and asked if it was the'Ingil Sheriff'
-the holy Gospel. I answered,'Yes, and I also
have one in Turkish, if you wish.' Immediately
upon my return he came to me, and begged a
Testament; and as I gave it to him, he began at
once to read it aloud, that all his companions
might hear; and every day since, upon the raft,
I have heard him reading his Testament aloud to
himself and his fellows with much earnestness.
Our earnest prayer is that it may lead him to renounce the religion of the false prophet, and sincerely receive the truth as it is in Jesus.
21*




CHAPTER XX.
HIS JOURNAL.
MR. RIGHTER kept a journal or diary, containing brief notes of the events of each day, during
all the time of his second absence from home,
until his last illness. Several volumes of such
notes were returned to his friends, but they are
so brief as not to admit of being transcribed.
They were more full on this last journey than
they had been before, and it is the source of very
deep interest to those who were acquainted with
him, and it will be to all into whose hands this
volume may fall, that his last records were so
full.  They show more conclusively than the
testimony of others, how truly his heart was devoted to the great work in which he was engaged
-how untiring he was in its prosecution, and
how cheerfully and even joyfully he arose each
day to enter upon its duties and toils.  This
journal is given entire from the day of his reaching Mosul.
NOVEMBER 8th, 1856.%
"A splendid clear morning, and are rejoiced at




MOSUL.                 247
the prospect of reaching Mosul in a few hours,
and meeting with our excellent Crhistian friends
there.
"At noon we came in sight of the minarets
and walls of Mosul and Nebly Yonas, the tomb of
Jonas covering the ruins of ancient Nineveh, on
the opposite side of the river. It is beautiful in the
distance, under the clear sunlight of an oriental
sky. The shores are clothed with green; the
river flows with a broad and majestic current;
the walls rise grandly in front, and I greatly
enjoy the scene as we float on quietly toward
both the ancient and modern city. See several
of the native women on the banks of the river,
their long black hair flowing down their shoulders
in graceful style. The shores are also planted
with watermelons that are just gathered for the
market.
" The city now stands out fully before us with
its walls, battlements, minarets, and towers, in
stately oriental style. Sail beside the city walls
-count 300 women washing and beating clothes
by the river side. Come to anchor near the
bridge of boats; are received by a mingled crowd
of turbaned natives; a guide directs us through
the muddy streets, like Stamboul, towards the
house of the American missionaries; meet Mr.
Marsh and Dr. Haskell coming to meet us on
horseback-insist upon our mounting and riding




248             THE SABBATH.
-streets, coffee-shops, quite like Eastern cities.
Arrive at the mission house-large court with a
large tree and singing birds in the centre-cordial
welcome; see Mrs. Marsh and Mrs. Lobdue and
the children. Ride out upon the plain outside of
the city; quite like Egypt in the sky and view,
and mild, mellow light. Excellent Arab horses;
fnuch enjoy the ride, also a fine walk on the
housetop and.view over the city. Have a delightful social prayer-meeting with the missionaries in the evening.
SABBATH, 9th.
"Am awaked by the cheerful singing of birds
in the court. This morning see Kos-ma-chiel who
was formerly a Catholic Nestorian priest, and
was in Rome five months where he became a
Protestant.
"Attend the Bible class in the chapel; fifty
or sixty were present, seated on their knees in
Eastern style-venerable, fine-looking men wearing large round turbans.  I address them  in
behalf of the Bible cause, visit to Egypt, the
Crimea, and the Kuzelbash.  They listen with
much interest, and then come forward to shake
me by the hand and thank the American Bible
Society for sending them the Bible and gospel of
salvation. It was an impressive scene as these
Syrians, descendants of the old Assyrians, in




EVANGELICAL ALLIANCE.         249
sight of the ruins of ancient Nineveh, thus expressed their gratitude for receiving the word of
God at our hands.
"I was much pleased with the neat chapel and
intelligent congregation. In the evening have a
meeting for organizing a branch of the Evangelical Alliance.  After hearing of the Turkey
branch of the Alliance, and discussing the matter
with much interest, they unanimously and cordially expressed their desire to form a branch,
and thus be linked with Christians in all parts of
the East and the world. It was a meeting of
much interest. They cheerfully came forward
and signed their names in Arabic to our rules
and regulations-fourteen members, all who could
write.
"The women wear a black mask upon their
heads, which, when it is drawn, entirely conceals
their face.
MONDAY, 10th.
"Another very delightful morning. Ride on
horseback to the Pasha's palace. Very pleasant
reception by the Pasha in his audience room,
overlooking the Tigris. Hamdi Pasha, a finelooking gentlemen of the modern school, heartily
shook hands with us, and bid us welcome. He
had not often the honor of a visit from English
and Americans; entertains us with chebouks,




250                PASHA.
preserves, and coffee in oriental style. He hoped
that a friendly intercourse with each other would
increase; it would be to our mutual benefit. He
remarked that now Mussulmans and Christians
and Jews were becoming brothers. My friend
said we have one Father.'Yes,' he replied,' Allah
was Lord of all the earth; not only the God of
the mountains but also of the plains.' I remarked
his views were the same as the Sultan's, as declared in the Hatti humayoun.' Yes,' said he,'the Firman was read in Arabic and Turkish in
the grand court of the palace to all the people,
and it would be his object to have it fully carried
out.' He greatly rejoiced in it. In comparing
the present with the past great advance was
made. The meaning of the word Koort was
originally wolf, and it was now  dog, and he
hoped they would soon make it sheep.  He
pressed us to take a guard of his soldiers that we
might pass with honor through the country. He
rose as we left, and took leave of us with friendly
salutations,' salam safa guelding Khosh guelding,'
-welcome, much welcome. He would do us the
favor of returning our visit. Then we call upon
the Deftudar Kyiah, who received us in a similar
cordial manner, entertained us in the same style,
and expressed the same enlightened views in regard to English and Americans. The Pasha had
been six years from Stamboul, and his secretary




POPULATION.              251
the same. We were greatly delighted with our
visit thus far, in the interior. Call to visit the
Bible depot, at the large new Khan of the English consulate, near the two principal gates of the
city.  Bibles in Arabic, Syriac, ancient and
modern-a very public place and well known in
the city. Copies of the Scriptures sold during
the last year; 217 books, of which 34 were Scriptures and parts of Scriptures. Call upon Mrs.
Rassam, wife of the English Consul; fine house,
large court, garden in the centre, slabs from
Nineveh in the pavement, and beautiful sedab or
alabaster underground apartment below. Then
visit the dispensary and see Dr. Haskel in his
labors of love, prescribing for the crowd of patients of all classes, Moslems, Christians, and
Jews, women, men, and children, who daily come
to him. They average forty or fifty each day.
The system is first to preach the gospel to them,
and then give them medicine for their diseasesArabs from the desert, Koords from the moun
tains, Moslems and Christians from the city.
"Mosul has a population of 45,000; Moslems
36,000; Christians 7,500; 1,500 Jews; about
two-fifths ancient Syrians or Jacobites; two.
fifths Chaldeans or Papal Nestorians; one-fifth
Papal Syrians; 180 enrolled in the Protestant
community; fifteen church members; attendance
at service (average fifty-five); language used




252             TEE PASHA.
entirely Arabic. A  Bible class of twenty or
thirty; two boys' schools numbering sixty pupils;
three natives are employed in going from house
to house to teach the men and women to read the
Bible in the families; have three preachersJeremiah Shemmas, deacon, Kos Machiel (formerly a Papal Nestorian priest), Behnan, from
the seminary of Aleih; three teachers; have
three out stations at Jezerch, a village near Nahauan, where the Nestorian priest and his people
are Protestant, numbering 100. He teaches the
people to read the Bible.
" Spend a very pleasant evening with the French
Consul, his adopted daughter, and Mrs. Rquite like an American evening party-save
the variety of languages spoken, English, French,
Italian, Turkish, Arabic, and Greek.
TUESDAY, 11th.
"After the rain it is mild and genial this morning.  This morning  the Pasha, according to
appointment, calls to visit us, accompanied by his
defterdar and an interpreter. He brings his own
chibouque and fingaw, says that one American
friend has brought him two others, and he is now
rich. I tell him that I hope the ships sailing from
America on the chart before him will bring him
many more. He smiles approbation and says
that he felt in his heart that there was something




A RIDE.              253
good near him, but he was not aware of so great
an affair so close beside him. He remarked that
some physicians give a medicine to cure one disease, others give a medicine to heal and renew
the system. So a good government should seek
for gradual reforms. I remarked, his views entirely coincided with the ideas of the Sultan, in
the Hatti Sheriff. I told him that we were so
much pleased with his liberal sentiments we would
be happy to present him with a copy of the Bible
that he might learn what we in England and
America believed. He expressed his thanks, and
said it would be valuable in two particulars; it
would always remind him of his true friend; and
it would be good for instruction, as being the book
of God. He was exceeding affable and gracious
-remarkably intelligent, and ready at reparteea good specimen of an active-minded Turk.
"The conversation continued for a half hour
more, and he took his leave in Oriental style.
His Secretary, when we inquired with regard to
fine Arab horses, said, the son of the Pasha had
one, and his own were the best in Mosul.
" He invited us, in the court, to see his, a noble
animal of full blood and breeding, whereupon he
gave us the favor of riding her to visit ancient
Nineveh, and he himself volunteered to accompany us, as he was acquainted with Mr. Layard and his excavations. We rode out in grand
22




254              NINEVEH.
style, six in our party-crossing the floating
bridge over the Tigris, we galloped across the
plain and along the line of the ancient walls
which are distinctly traceable to the mound of
one of the palace gateways. Here we dismounted
and descended into the trenches under ground.
I was amused to find here one of the largest
human-headed winged bulls standing in its original site at the entrance of a temple. And near
by was a full length figure of a priest, holding in
his hand the sacred cone in offering sacrifice to
the deity before him.  Both were cut in solid
stone, and were of huge dimensions.  On the
opposite side stands another of similar size to
guard the porch of the temple. Then we walk
in and examine the sides of the room. Slabs are
inlaid, exceedingly interesting. We then walked
to the exterior top of the mound and traced the
line of the ancient walls of the city seven miles in
circuit. Yonder is the buried ruin of the temple
palace of Koyunjuk, and beyond the mound and
tomb of the prophet Jonas, over which a splendid
Moslem mosque is now erected, and a little Moslem village built around it, which has not been
excavated underneath. Descending, we mounted
our horses and galloped within the city walls. It
is now a ploughed field, as the common houses
were of sun-dried bricks, all was consumed, and
crumbled to ruins. Then we came to the palace




RELICS.              255
mound of Koyunjuk. This has been extensively
excavated, and here the most valuable articles
were found. We descend into the trenches, and
come to the grand hall of the palace; here were
splendid column pedestals, a finely wrought slab
of pavement, and slabs and remains of ancient
art and skill extending far. Then we walked
over the mound, saw various shafts and trenches,
and at length descended and came to another
temple-four huge bulls at the gateway; one of
them at the side covered with cuneiform inscriptions, and in the hall slabs of battle and triumphal
scenes, attacking a fortified town, casting up a
mound, battering-rams, hurling stones; arid another represents ancient Tyre, palm trees, fish, a
man carrying a banner, etc.; another represents
a hill country, etc. Also we see the instruments
of music played, cymbals, tamborine and harp.
We could have wandered a whole day here. Next
we rode to the village of Nebly Yonas. Ascend
to the Mosque. The dignified old Moslem admits
us to the Mosque. It is elegantly built in a dome
style, and richly carpeted within. We walk to
the tomb of the prophet underneath a small
dome; here we look through a grated window,
strung with many-colored pilgrim  rags.  Then
we ask to enter within to the tomb itself. After
some little hesitation, they light their long sacred
candles, and unlock the heavy door. Solemnly




256           FRENCH CONSUL.
they advance praying to Allah, and bow on
the knee as we come in front of the tomb. It
is richly carpeted with  Persian carpet.  We
descended six steps and walked around the tomb.
It is covered with rich green silk, and above
a splendid  gold cloth, given, by the Pasha
of Busru. Then we came into the court of the
Mosque, and ascend the beautiful glazed brick
minaret. The view was magnificent, in the clear
sunlight, of the ancient city; its walls and gateway,
towers, temples-the winding Tigris stretching
afar-the gardens opposite-the flocks and Arab
tents, and the mountains of the Kurdistan rising
majestically behind, a scene of vivid interest I
shall never forget. Then we descend, mount our
horses and gallop over the plain and across the
river to Mosul.
" Make a pleasant evening call upon the French
consul, at his house, a good specimen of French
politeness.   Learn the news, political crisis
coming on, and the prospect of another Congress
at Paris.
"Have a beautiful moonlight view from the
housetop of Mr. Marsh. The pure and mellow
light shedding over the scene. Venus just setting
in the west and Jupiter shining clear in the sky,
like the views of moonlight scene from the housetop in Jerusalem. Talk late in the evening with
Mr. Marsh on various interesting matters.




ARCHBISHOP.              257
WEDNESDAY, 12.
Call first upon our friend, the Pasha's defterdar, a Christian.  He receives us in a most
cordial manner, entertained us with narghile, sherbet, coffee, and preserves, etc., in oriental style.
Then he introduced his wife, a fine-looking, tall
woman, splendidly dressed in figured silk skirt,
gold embroidered vest, golden  necklace, and
golden head-dress, inwrought with precious stones.
Express our pleasure at seeing a native Christian
lady in a social call at Mosul, far in the East.
We call our wives in America our better half,
but Moslems degrade them. Thinks a Moslem
would be killed by the people for becoming
Christian, but not by the government.  The
authorities would execute the murderers.  He
himself wears the decoration of Mejedie, the
first ever conferred on a Christian. Three papal
Syrian priests were present, who had been to
Rome, and assisted in the entertainment. They
spoke Italian.
Then the son of the Pasha sent his Arab horse
for us to see.  A  large iron grey, splendidly
formed, strong, a noble creature from the Shummur tribe.
Afterward call upon the Syrian Archbishop, a
venerable man with a long, flowing beard, intelligent and affable; received us with great courtesy;
says he makes the Bible the only rule of faith,
22*




258             ARCHBISHOP.
preaches from the word of God alone; read us
one of his sermons in Syriac, beautifully written,
on the new heart-except a man be born again
he cannot enter, the kingdom of heaven. If a
sinner came to inquire the way of salvation he
would show him the word of God. Thy word is
a light to my feet, etc. He seems thoroughly
evangelical in his views, and wishes to publish
them in a book. The word of God is like a net
to catch sinners, and pull them out of their sins.
Tell him we hope he will become the Luther of
the Syrian church-one-third of his people sympathise with him in these spiritual views-we must
walk by the word of God. The heavens and the
earth pass away, but the word of the Lord endureth for ever. He is a thorough Bible man. Tell
him I am glad to hear that he founds his faith on
the word of God. I ask him if he wishes his people to have the Bible in their families, to read and
learn the way of salvation. He would rejoice in
it, and he himself will distribute and sell the
Bible to all who desire it. He wishes Syriac,
Arac, and Arabic in Syriac character (gershuni).
He prayed that himself and the missionaries
may all be one in their spiritual labors for
their people, and that the time might soon
come when they would preach in each other's
pulpits, and partake of the communion of Christ
together around the table of Christ.  Imme



DR. GRANT'S HOUSE.         259
diately after he wishes the Dr. Haskell to prescribe
for him.
Then call to visit the house of Dr. Grant, now
occupied by a Syrian family. The two women
are at home, one of them knew Dr. Grant. He
had healed her of a disease.  The Lord have
mercy on him.  The other was very beautiful
and dressed in a profusion of gold ornaments,
nose jewels, and bracelets and anklets. They
were exceeding polite. Saw the room in which
Dr. G. died, looking out on the Tigris, with stained
glass windows above. (May our last end be like
his. See the man who saw his death scene.)
Here is a beautiful view from the house-top
over the city. Mr. Laurie and Layard afterward
lived here.
Then call upon Mrs. Russan, visit the Protestant school of twenty-seven Syrian boys. Answer Bible questions and one of them read from
the Testament very fluently-nine years old.
Mrs. Marsh and Mrs. Lobdell have a meeting
one day in a week, in which the Scriptures are
read and explained to them and prayer is offered.
The average number of twenty attend, also a Bible class on Sunday of fourteen members. There
is also a Bible society organized among the church
members, appropriating a fund of a hundred piastres a year for distributing the Scriptures to the
poor.




260            BURIAL GROUND.
" Ride outside the city walls at the hour of sunset to see the (American) missionary burial-ground.
Visit the graves of T)rs. Grant and Lobdell, Mr.
Laurie, Mrs. Mitchell and Williams, Mr. Hinsdale, and the children of the missionaries who
have died here.  It is beautifully situated on
a slightly elevated ground, one mile from the
city, in sight of the gardens, river Tigris, Jonah's tomb, and the snow-crowned mountains
of Kurdistan in the distance. Blessed are the
dead that die in the Lord.
"TIIHURSDAY, 13.
"Have a very pleasant call from the Syrian
Archbishop Behnan (3Maphrian, see Mosheim). He
wishes our assistance to secure justice to one of
his Syrian people. We tell him there is an Evangelical Alliance at Constantinople, formed for this
very object, and we would be glad to have him a
member. Read to him  the list of officers, the
Dutch ambassador, Bishop Gobat, Mr. Nicolayson.  He replies, it is very good, and he will
think of it. He says the Papists have much opposed his work. I answer they have also opposed
us in circulating the Bible. No Papists are members of this Alliance, only those who receive the
Bible as their rule of faith. He says woe to him
that standeth alone, see Jeremiah.  We are one
if we are born of the Holy Spirit, one in Christ




THE PASHA.              261
Jesus. Tell him our desire to introduce the Bible
into his school.  He will be very thankful to
have them. A very excellent, evangelical, intelligent, and interesting Archbishop of the (Oriental) Syrian Church.
"In the evening have a meeting of the teachers
of schools, and the boys who go from house to
house to teach the natives, both men and women,
to read, and instruct them in the Scriptures. A
chapter is read in the Bible, questions asked, and
an appropriate prayer offered by one of the teachers, and then we both addressed them on the importance of their work.
" FRIDAY, 14.
" In the morning the kiljah of the Pasha calls.
He is a very affable and courteous man. Tell
him  that my name originally signified Richter,
Judge, cadi in Turkish, and English it is Righter (Daha Dogree). He says, we love you yourself and still more for your name. I ask him for
his name, and its signification. Ismidt (Glory).
Tell him I am happy to see that the glory of his
name has not departed. His ancestors won glory,
and mine justice and right. He was a fine specimen of a complimentary Turkish courtier.
" Engages to send us a bourneti and cavasses
for our journey in the mountains.
"Then we arrange with our katergio. After




262                  RIDE.
we had finished our arrangements, to our great
surprise, one of these rough muleteers burst forth
with a volley of English words that perfectly
amazed us.
" Ride out with the ladies just at sunset and
golden twilight. The evening star, the purity of
the western horizon bounding the desert afar, and
Jupiter brilliant in the blue sky, formed a scene
of picturesque beauty I shall never forget, more
like heaven than a scene of earth.
"In the evening the Syrian Archbishop sends us
his servant to bear his Christian salutation and a
sermon on the Word of God, saying that his mind
has been spiritually stirred up by our visit, and
he is more desirous than ever to be zealously engaged in the cause of Christ. The discourse was
translated to us, and was an excellent scriptural
sermon.  We wrote his Grace an epistle in behalf of evangelical Christians in England and
America, and requesting a copy of the sermon for
publication; also the Archbishop's views on the'all important doctrine of justification by faith.'
"SATURDAY, 15.
"In the morning we ride across the floatingbridge on the Tigris, and then gallop on and
around the walls of Nineveh. We set out at the
tomb of Jonah, and riding upon the top of the
wall, we came to the angle of the wall that com



WALLS OF NINEVEH.            263
mands a view down the river, at the south, toward Nimroud. Then we rode on, passing by the
gateways at the sides, and came to an angle on the
east that looks toward the snow crowned mountains of Kurdistan. The walls are still 20 feet
high, and steep, wide enough for a horse to gallop on the top, though built of sun-dried bricks,
and subject for two thousand years to the action
of the elements and the hand of man; at the bottom they are at least forty feet wide. Passing
northward, we observed at the side traces of an
outer wall, forming a wide trench between. We
also distinctly marked gateways at intervals upon
this side. In the centre a river flows directly
through the city. On the northern angle there
is a large mound, and also a palace gateway at
the west, where huge winged bulls were found
and sculptured slabs. The view from this point
is beautiful, up the winding river toward the distant mountains, as well to Mosul and the desert
stretching far beyond. Then we rode to Koyunjuk, filled with excavations, and returned to our
point of starting Nebly Yonas.
" The river originally, in all probability, flowed
near the walls, and the gates were more frequent
on the river side. The walls are now ploughed
and sowed with grain, and Nineveh is also a
ploughed field, and used as a place for spreading
nets to catch birds. It was most interesting thus




264            LAST SABBATH.
to circumvent the walls, and behold the complete
desolation of this ancient city under the judgment
of God. We occupied an hour and a half in our
ride of eight miles. The air was pure and bracing, and much we enjoyed the scene.
"Returning we held a conference, by special
appointment, with the Syrian Archbishop, at the
house of the English Consul. He expresses a
willingness to join the Evangelical Alliance. He
also desires to leave the errors of his church, and
unite with the Church of England, if he can meet
with sympathy and support. Or he will give up
all, if need be, and hire a chapel and there preach
only the Gospel and the Word of' God. He seems
to be very sincere, and we trust and pray that the
Lord will abundantly strengthen him to do his
will. It was a deeply interesting interview. In
the evening made our final arrangements for departure on Monday.
"SUNDAY, 16.
"Attend Arabic service early in the morning,
at the hour of sunrise. Mr. Marsh preaches on
the third commandment. It is a pleasant hour to
meet together for the worship of God. At eleven
Mr. Jones gives us a sermon in English,'My
heart is fixed,' etc. Then we call upon the Archbishop and find him quite ill. He is unable to
enter farther into the subject of the Evangelical




LEAVE MOSUL.             265
Alliance; wishes it to be carried forward in writing through Mrs. Russam. He seems very sincere, and entirely disposed to take the Bible alone
for his rule of faith, and the Gospel for his hope
of salvation. I tell him our prayer will be that
the Holy Spirit may guide him in the way of all
truth, and that we may meet in heaven at last.
In the afternoon we have the communion service
when Mr. Jones and I address them. It was a
most interesting and solemn occasion. In the
evening the native brethren meet at the house of
Mr. Marsh, and he questions them upon the preaching of the day, and conducts prayers in Arabic.
Again they thank us for coming from England
and America to visit them in the name of Christ.
" MONDAY, 17.
" The Pasha sends his salaams, and regrets that
himself, defterdar, and suite could not escort us
out of the city, as the post had just arrived.
" At noon the katugi and his animals come,
and the cavasses, ready for our departure. We
set out in due time, a highly respectable party in
numbers and appearance. Dr. Haskell joins us.
The native brethren "on foot accompany us, and
our friend Houaza Yohanna, wearing his decoration, and mounted on his fine Arab mare, beautifully caparisoned, escorts us across the river and
some distance beyond. A cavass from the Pacha,
23




266               JOURNEY.
and four zabtiers as a guard, accompany us. My
Arab steed, Emir, is in full spirit, and we gallop
on beautifully over the plain. The snow-covered
mountains are in front, tinged with purple light,
and the whole western sky is flooded with golden
light. The air is mild and genial, and much I
enjoy it. Mr. Marsh also joins us for the first
night. Just at twilight we reach Tell Kef, a
large town of 2,000 inhabitants, all Papal Nestorians or Chaldeans (Mussulmans and Christians).
We are most comfortable, in a large, well-finished
room, with a good fire, and an excellent dinner.
"TUESDAY, 15.
"Have a comfortable night. The view from the
country is beautiful. Gallop on over the plain
past two Syrian villages, and in four hours arrive
at El Rosh. It is beautifully situated just at the
base of the mountain range.
"The fig, pomegranate, and evergreen trees are
growing beside the fountain and stream that flows
through. This was the birthplace of the Prophet
Nahum and the Elkoshite. He has often ploughed
these fields and looked upon these scenes. We
are very cordially received by the Kahyah Yusef,
a Chaldean. He says that English, Americans,
Chaldeans, are all one in Christ. Christ is our
Master and Head.
" He speaks in the highest terms of Dr. Grant;




GAZELLES.               267
says he was an excellent man, and has been in the
village and in this very room.
" After lunch, visited the tomb of the Prophet in
a small church underneath the mountain. It is
a small round tomb, covered with Persian cloth.
We then ride on to a Yesidi village. It is very
neat and comfortable. A woman runs down the
hill to the doctor, and begs for medicine. Then
we ride over a stony road past several Yesidi villages. There were two large mounds on the
plain. Oleanders are growing by the brooks.
We start up gazelles near the mountain. They
are beautiful creatures as they nimbly leap among
the rocks. Just after sunset we reach the Yesidi
village of Baadri. It is situated in a little valley
with a stream flowing through, and planted with
green trees. It is very neat and thrifty in appearance.
"IIassein Bey, to whom we have letters of introduction, receives in very gracious manner, shaking us cordially by the hand, and bidding us welcome. He is a young man of amiable and agreeable address. The village contains a population
of 500.
"WEDNESDAY, 19.
"Have a very comfortable night. In the morning our chief calls upon us and takes a cup of
coffee. Then we call the Moolah, and present




268              THE BIBLE.
him with a copy of the Bible. He receives it
very reverentially, and his priest began to read
both in the Old and New Testament of the Creation and Christ. Tell him we love this much in
England and America.  That we have much
money, but we value this above all. That comes
from the earth, this from God. He says he will
read in it every day, and also to the people of his
village. Tell him this speaks of Jesus Christ,
who came from heaven, and through faith in
Christ we hope to reach heaven. It was a most
interesting scene.
" Then the Bey walks with us to a hill that overlooks the village. Here is the ruin of his father's
Palace, destroyed by Raroudoz Bey. The view
is beautiful. Over the plain are sixty villages of
Yesidis. As we come down we enter a native
house. It is very neat and well constructed.
Now we mount our horses, and the chief, with
twenty horsemen, his son, Hassan, accompanies
us. As the word is given, and the horses gallop
on, the spears glitter in the sunlight, the music
sounds. It is a gay and brilliant scene. Two
are richly dressed in gold-embroidered red suits.
The sheik is dressed in a light brown suit, neatly
embroidered, and mounted on a fine black horse
of Yesidi breed. Hassan, his son, is dressed in
scarlet, and though only seven, rides a grey mare
beautifully. It is a beautiful view over the hill




DEVIL WORSHIPPERS.           269
as they gallop around in circles, and then close
around their chief. In one hour we come to a
white pointed tomb; they dismount and kiss a
flat stone in front, repeating a short prayer, and
then ride on, singing as they go their native song.
In another hour we come to a small ravine,
through which a clear stream flows, and it is
planted with oleanders and green trees.
We now move on in single file for a half hour
-come in sight of the white spires of Sheik Avi.
Descending to a small valley they all dismount
and pull off their shoes, and walk up to their
sacred shrine. The chief folds his hands in front
and walks barefoot in solemn style. It is a beautifully shaded place-green olive trees, oaks,
with autumn tint and various shades; the brook
rustles through, and the birds are singing in the
branches. I walk beside the Bey, and we enter
the outer court of their temple. He and his men
all walk around and kiss the sacred stones, and
then we sit down under the shade of a large overspreading vine to lunch. A stream of clear water
is running through, and birds are singing beautifully.  The blacksnake and hatchet are upon
the wall outside. It is one of the most interesting visits I have ever made, and all are so amiable and courteous I cannot realize that we are in
the midst of the hated devil worshippers. Then
the door of their'temple was opened, and we
23*




270             NESTORIANS.
entered. A large fountain of water is in one side,
and at the other two tombs with curtains drawn
before them. One is said to contain the devil's
head. Lamps are kept continually burning before them. I then presented the sheik with a
copy of the Bible, in Arabic, to be kept in their
temple and read at their festivals, and whenever
any one came who wished to read it. We then
gave our cards to Hassein Bey and gave him our
parting salutations. He was exceedingly gracious
and gentle to the last.  I was greatly pleased
with him, and trust our visit will do good to the
Yesidis. He gives us two horsemen, with spears,
and one footman, as a guard and guide. The
valley is exceedingly romantic and beautiful,
planted with the fig, the olive, and the oak, and
resounding with the notes of singing birds. We
now pursue a hilly winding road-past black
Koordish tents and small villages, and then come
to a wild ravine with a stream dashing over the
rocks and the mountain rising steep on either side
-a scene of great wildness and beauty. The
road is rough and steep. In two hours more
climbing up the mountain side, we came to the
village of Bebosi, all Chaldeans or Catholic
Nestorians.'THURSDAY, 20.
"Sleep well in a warm native house. The views




SPINDURA.               271
at sunrise from the housetop in the midst of the
mountains are beautiful. The reddening and the
rosy light. The village is partly in ruins. Ride
on through a rocky wooded glen, where figs and
olives grow in the valley, and oaks cover the
mountain side, and rest at an angle of the road in
a shady spot refreshed by the cooling breeze. In
a half hour we come to a point that commands
a view over a fertile valley with villages at the
side, and a wild deep ravine winding through the
mountain. Descending thence, we lunched under
a wide-spreading oak, with this scene stretching
before us. We rode on over steep, rough, rocky
mountains, and in four hours arrived at the village of Spindura, upon a sloping hillside. There
was much excitement upon our arrival; nearly
the whole village turned out on the housetops to
witness the important event. The population is
three hundred and fifty, entirely Moslems.
"FRIDAY, 21.
"The patients come round in the morning to
show their diseases and receive their medicines
with much gratitude. We ride three hours over
a very rugged mountain, and lunch in a quiet
little valley by a clear stream flowing down the
mountain. Then three hours more over a rough
road intersected by ravines and come in sight of
Amadia, perched high upon the rocks.  We




272               MOODIR.
toiled up the steep hillside late in the evening,
and find the large gate shut. We rap at the gate,
and they hail us from the wall to inquire who we
are, and where we came from. Our cavass replies,
that he is Achmet Effendi, the Pasha's man, and
a distinguished party had arrived. They, however, had heard our guns of salute fired and suspect us of being a party of robber Koords, fifteen
in number. The cavass says we have come from
the Pasha, and have a firman from the Sultan.
The capugi replies, I do not know who you are;
and thus we are kept waiting an hour in the cold
and dark. At length the Moodir and several of
his principal men came with lanterns, and the
gates were opened with great carefulness and display. How great was our delight when our good
friend Shemmas Jeremiah of Mosul, embraced us,
and bid us welcome. The Moodir also extended
both hands, and bid us welcome. He had walked
down from his palace to receive us, and his suite accompanied us to the Serai. There his largest room
fitted for our reception, and a warm fire made
us most comfortable. Immediately he ordered an
oriental dinner of six or eight courses, rice,
chickens, mutton, cakes, preserves, etc., and closes
up with chibouk, coffee, and sherbet. He gives
us also a warm cloak of fur. Our room is hung
round with various arms, swords, pistols, guns,
for impressive effect.




A PRIEST.              273
"SATURDAY, 22.
" A beautiful, clear morning of pure air. The
Dr, has many patients, the Moodir's wife's sister,
the Usbashi (Major), etc.  One of them says he
is not sick, but wishes to get fat like the Moodir.
Go to see three full length sculptures of kings,
cut in the rock outside the wall, very ancient, now
much broken and defaced. Then we make a call
upon the Usbashi (Major), at the barracks. The
Pasha's commissioners are there. They rise as
we approach, and receive us upon carpets and
cushions in the open air. The sky is pure, and
the air delightful, and the view of the mountain
ranges, the valley and villages, and the whole
panorama around is magnificent.
" The priest from D)eirra, a Nestorian village,
one hour distant, calls to see us, population fifty.
Six can read, have the Bible in the church, and
have Testaments in the village; wishes all to have
the Testament. He preaches when they have the
sacrament, twenty or thirty times a year. He
preaches repentance, has a congregation of forty;
has prayers every day, morning and evening,
and two services on  Sunday.  Just now  a
band of the Moodir's Koordish soldiers return
from one of the mountain districts, armed with
guns and swords, on foot and on horseback, with
the music of drums, in great style. They had
been out to gather taxes from the villages around.




274                DARE.
Then we call upon the Moodir and Commissioners,
in his reception room, and have an audience with
them; very pleasant. In the evening Shemmas
Jeremiah relates his history and experience. He
was a Catholic Nestorian or Chaldean monk, in a
convent near Elkosh. He was directed to the
1st of Tiinothy, 4th chapter, first three verses. He
reflected upon this, went to the missionaries at
Mosul, Dr. Perkins and Mr. Stocking, from
Oroomeah. He went with them and taught in
their schools, and there embraced the truth. Amadich has a population of 2,500, of whom 2000 are
Moslems, 350 Syrians, 100 Nestorians, and 50
Jews; formerly it contained 14,000, and was the
residence of the Sultan.
"SUNDAY, 23.
"This morning the brother of Osman Bey,
Abuzed Bey, the Koordish chief, calls to see us.
We then receive a call from the Moodir. He
offers us his horse to ride out and visit the Nestorians in Dare.  We descend the steep hill-side
without the walls. On the right is a beautiful
valley, planted with trees and gardens. In a few
minutes the priest, on horseback, and a number
of his people come out to meet us, and escort us
to their village. We climb a steep hill and then
come down to Dare, a beautiful little village under
the high mountain rock. A pure spring of water




INTERESTING PEOPLE.          275
gushes out and flows down the valley. Trees and
fertile gardens with nuts, pomegranates, figs, and
grapes are in front. WAe visit the church, a large
stone building with three arched rooms. They
have cotton, nuts, onions, and various fruit offerings given to support the church. We send to
call the people, and they assemble, old men,
women, and children, priest and deacon, thirty in
number, when we all preach to them the Gospel
of salvation, through faith in Christ. They listen
with much interest and reverence, and respond
frequently to the word of everlasting life.
"Then we sit out with them in the open air,
they gather around on their knees in a circle, and
say they will put a chain upon us to keep us long
with them.  The summer retreat of the Mosul
missionaries is here.
" There are no pictures in the church but a
small cross, which they say they kiss from love
to Christ. Then they bring us a lunch of pomegranates, honey, nuts, eggs, and bread, which we
eat in the shade, and much enjoy it together.
After which'we talk further of Christ and his
cross, etc., and then ride down to Komani, past
fields of rice, cotton, wheat, tobacco, and gardens
of various fruit trees. Komani has a new, neat
church, and contains a population of 300, all Nestorians. The people are delighted to see us, and
salute us with much respect and reverence. We




276              DR. GRANT.
called them into the church, and spoke to them
of their sins, Christ, repentance, and eternal salvation. They listened with intense interest and
frequently responded, and seemed greatly to enjoy
the truth. They desire much to have an American missionary to come and live among them, to
teach them the Bible and to preach to them the
Gospel of salvation. Eight in the village can
read and they have no Bible. It was a Sabbath
of great interest among the mountain Nestorians.
They are a simple-hearted, pure-minded people,
and entirely ready to receive the Gospel.
"We also visited the house where Dr. Grant
lived in Amadia. There he spent some time in
the midst of his labors of love and mercy to this
people. The owner of the house, a venerable old
man, lived with him. He says since the days of
Adam in the flesh, there was never such a man.
He prayed much, read his Bible, and preached
the Gospel to all. The Holy Ghost was with him
in all that he said and did.
"MONDAY, 24.
"This morning the Moodir calls upon us, and
the Usbashi, or commander of the fortress, and a
number of patients came for medicine. Then a
Moslem sheik and the Usbashi, or Major of the
troops.  Afterward the Commissioners of the
Pasha came in to smoke a chibouk and take cof



OSMAN BEY.              277
fee with us, and then Osman Bey, the Koordish
chief, a very bold, fearless man in appearance,
and having much of the fierce spirit of his native
mountains. See also the woman, a widow and
her daughter, who had been stripped of all her
possessions by a plundering Koordish chief, and
listen to her tale of oppression and wrong.  Saw
also one Jew, a probable descendant of the ten
captive tribes. He says there are 500 Jews in
Amadia. They have been waiting 1800 years for
(Christ) the Messiah, and he has not come yet.
"TUESDAY, 25.
"Aalam Effendi Moodir, of Amadieh, a very
kind, hospitable man.
"A cold foggy rainy morning. The snow is
on the mountains. The Moodir, mounted on his
Arab horse, with a band of his attendants and a
band of music, escorted us out of the city, and then
he gives us his salaams in parting. We ride over
to the Nestorian village of Bibudi. The villagers
all gather on the housetops to welcome us; they
are exceedingly friendly. It is a wedding day,
and they are all dressed in their gay clothing.
The church is a very neat stone building with a
low door. They all come around, priests, deacons, men, women, and children, and we preach
the Gospel to them; tell them to believe the
Bible, trust in God, have faith in Christ, and
24




278         NESTORIAN VILLAGES.
pray for the Holy Spirit to dwell in their hearts,
and guide them to everlasting life. They heartily
respond, and greatly desire a missionary to live
among them, and teach them the way of eternal
salvation; they wished that we should stay with
them. The village is beautifully situated under
the mountain range, and overlooking the valley.
We then pursue our way. The fog rests on the
mountain, and clears from the landscape before
us. The sun shines out underneath the clouds
upon the white waterfalls and snow-capped peaks,
like a scene of resplendent glory, more beautiful
in its effect than any I have ever before seen.
Pass through two Chaldean Catholic Nestorian
villages, and arrive at evening at Daoudich. The
Moodir Achmed Effendi, a very pleasant gentleman, receives us with much hospitality and gives
us a cordial reception in his palace castle. The
landscape to day was most beautiful. The fields
are cultivated with grain, rice, and olive trees.
The mountain ranges rise on either hand, and the
valley stretches before us in picturesque and
varied beauty.
"Daoudich contains a population of eighty
Catholic Nestorians. A small Nestorian village
is about one hour distant. We have a very animated conversation in the evening with  the
Moodir, on the subject of religious liberty. He
says there is the same God over Moslems, Chris



NERESHKO.                279
tians, Jews, and Yesidees, and all should be
brothers.
"WEDNESDAY, 26.
"A fine view from the castle fort, of the rugged
snow-crowned mountains and  beautiful fertile
valley around.  The Moodir, with his attendants~
on horseback, accompanies us a short distance
on the way.  WAe ride on three hours over a
hilly country well cultivated, growing grain and
grapes. Guards receive us on the road in military
style. Then we come to the village of Baroski;
300, all Mussulmans, very neat. We lunch in a
comfortable place, Nice dried grapes are brought
to us.
" We take a guard of five men, and travel over
a similarly cultivated country, and arrive in two
hours at the village of Nereshko for the night.
There are sixty inhabitants, all Moslems; the
women go unveiled.  Our room  is filled with
wheat, rice, and barley, in sacks piled to the roof.
The situation is elevated and beautiful.  Fevers
seem to prevail in all this region, resulting principally from irrigating the rice and tobacco fields.
"THURSDAY, 27.
"We ride over a hilly country planted with
wheat, grain, and cotton, and in two and a half
hours come to the Koordish village of Tel Akro,




280               CHEBAR.
about fifty inhabitants, situated under the hillside.
Then we pass across a branch of the Kabour, and
beside the large river itself, flowing with a rapid
current. The strong castle of a robber chief rises
alone on the rugged mountains of Kala. We
lunch in a rocky glen beside a little stream of
pure water.
"Then we continue on our way and come to a
Koordish encampment, cochers, robbers, in a little
valley of black tents. Afterward we ride along
the river Kabour, the ancient Chebar, and in
two hours come in sight of Zakho. A  large
tower castle rises in front, and two bridges across
the river; the first called Del Ali, pretty woman, so
called because a Koordish chief saw her there. We
arrive at 4 P.M. at Zakho, and are received very
respectfully at first by the Moodir, but a Catholic
insists upon having us put in a shabby room.
We send for the Moodir, and assert our rights
with the Sultan's firman, and he then gives us
the first place and good attention. The Moodir
is Shemdin Agha, a fine-looking Koord with a
black beard. Zakho has a population 2,000;
1,500 Jews, 500 Moslems, 40 Christians.
" The Moodir very politely brings grapes, figs,
pomegranates, etc., for our entertainment, and we
spend a very pleasant evening, smoking chibouks
and drinking coffee sociably together.




DIARBEKIR.              281
"FRIDAY, 28.
"We are now in the Pashalic of Diarbekir.
After breakfast the Moodir calls and brings his little
son, a fine boy, with his sword girt on. Then go
to visit the Jews; find them in the synagogue at
their prayers; see the Rabbi, a venerable old
man with a white beard; have been here 200
years; show me their Hebrew books, and a copy
of the law rolled up like a scroll. They gather
around me with much interest; are pleased to
know that I have been to Jerusalem; they come
from all lands. A very interesting visit. The
Moodir mounted on a fine Arab mare, with his
guard of honor, escorts us on the way. We cross
the bridge of Del Ali, and one hour'and a half
along the plain, come to the village of Durnoc,
now Moslem, formerly Christian. There is here
a deserted church now used as a stable. Now
we ford the deep river, and ride over the plain
one hour, and lunch beside a running brook.
We gallop on over the plain, see forty or fifty
gazelles, and large birds like ostriches. Here the
great battle between Darius and Alexander was
fought. In two hours we arrive at the village of
Narhawur. 50 population, 25 Protestants and,25 Catholics. Stop at the house of Shemmas
Paulo, Deacon Paul, a Protestant, who receives
us with much rejoicing. The priest, a Protestant,
calls in to visit us, and many of the villagers
24*




282           EZEKIEL'S VISION.
gather around. He is in the employ of the missionaries, and teaches school in his own house; is
a pleasant-looking man with a black beard.
"The situation of the village is beautiful, on a
little mound, near a stream of water, overlooking
the plain. The sunset scene is lovely from the
house-top, the deep, golden light in the west, and
the rosy tint resting on the snow-capped mountains, and the whole landscape stretching before
me of unusual beauty. The river Kabour flows
through, and here doubtless the Prophet Ezekiel
saw his sublime visions of Jehovah most high.
In the evening fifteen or sixteen of the Nestorians
gather in the room of the Kahyah, seated on their
knees in a circle, and we speak to them of Christ
and the Gospel of salvation. They listen with deep
attention. They then tell us of the oppression of
the Moslems. There are twenty-two men, and
they pay one-tenth of their grain, 1332 piastres
tax, and soldiers are quartered upon them, from
two to twenty every night without pay, and as it is
on the high road, it is a serious grievance. Every
forty-four Christians must pay 5000 piastres for
one soldier.
"SATURDAY, 29.
"Sleep in the same room with our horses, three
apartments, harem, male sleeping-room, and stable.
The sunrise view from the house-top is magnifi



THE TIGRIS.             283
cent, over the eastern mountains. Yonder comes
the powerful king of day rejoicing in the East.
What golden glory gilds his chariot wheels, shedding over the snow-crowned mountain tops. We
ride on two hours over the plain, have another
gazelle chase, and then we come in sight of the
Tigris again.  It comes flowing down with a
whirling, eddying current. We ride two hours
beside the river, and lunch in view of the blue
mountains, stretching far in the distance. Soon
we come upon an eminence near the Tigris, to the
castle and minarets of Jesireh, and then in two
hours along the river-side, we arrive at Mansoira,
a Nestorian village of 300 population. It commands a fine view of the river, the mountains,
and the plain around. The Kahyah comes out on
foot to receive us, and politely kisses our hand.
He quarters us in a spacious native house, with
two large rooms, and a stable attached, separated
by a hall.  Here we expatiate in grand style,
much entertained by the habits of the natives,
baking in a round oven; a young girl of sixteen
pounding bulgoar in a stone mortar, with a huge
mallet. They gather in our room in the evening;
have no Bibles or Testaments in the village. A
Koordish chief, Ezdesher Bey, came and plundered the village, and carried away all their Testaments and religious books.




284              VILLAGERS.
"SABBATH, Nov. 30, 1856.
"Mansoria, a Nestorian village. A clear and
cloudless morning. Have a splendid view over
the river, and the hills round about from the
house-top. The priest calls to see us, a pleasant,
amiable man. Present him with a copy of the
Ingil in Chaldean and Syriac. Shemmas Eremiah
reads and explains it to him. He says it is very
good and he receives it with much gratitude and
thankfulness.' Then we assemble the villagers in the church
with the priest, and give them the open Gospel,
and tell them to read it, and follow its teachings
to guide them to heaven. Tell them to believe
the Bible, have faith in Christ, and pray for the
Holy Spirit to dwell in their hearts and sanctify
them unto everlasting life. They pay most devout
attention and frequently respond'Yes, yes, it is
true.'
" It is most interesting to preach to these poor,
oppressed Christians, who believe in Christ, on the
banks of the ancient Tigris. Entreat them  to
pray that Moslems, Nestorians, Jacobites, Yezidees, all may receive the same Gospel and become
brothers together in Christ Jesus. The dress of
the women; white head-dress, loose robe, long
braid to the hair, bracelets and beads on their
arms, and anklets on their feet, and many silver
coins on their head and neck. The men wear a




MR. STODDARD.            285
conical felt cap, bound around with a red figured
turban. In the afternoon they came to the Hakem
for medicine, and are very friendly. At sunset
see the ground where the great battle between
Beder Khan Bey and Reschid Pasha was fought.
A Koordish chief, who plundered the Christian
villages, and was taken captive by the Turks, is
now a prisoner in the island of Crete.
" Also look over to Mount Judy, where Noah's
ark is said to have rested, a high mountain,
covered with snow.  Beyond, near Elkosh, is
Am Sifna where tradition relates that Noah built
his ark.
"In the evening the priest comes from Shah,
the bishop feared to come because he thought we
might make him Catholic or Protestant. Isaac,
the teacher, comes with him, who has been instructed in Oroomiah by Mr. Stoddard; give to
Isaac a Testament to carry to Maraha, a Nestorian
village, two hours distant, about 150 population,
fifteen can read; they very much desire a Bible,
send also a Bible and Gospel by the Priest Isaiah
to the Nestorian bishop, Mar Joseph, at Shah, a
village six hours distant, 200 population; send
also a letter to testify that American Christians
love much the Nestorians and desire them all to
receive the Bible and Gospel of salvation. We
dine upon a young kid of a goat. A girl sits at
the outer door with a dish of porridge in her hand




286         NESTORIAN PRAYERS.
to give some from  a spoon to all the poor who
come to receive it. Shemmas Eremiah is very
entertaining in conversation. Koordish proverb,'If he see me I am friend, if he not see me I am
thief.' Nestorian prayer in church, glory to God
in the highest, on earth peace, good will to men,
then the Lord's Prayer.  Cry from the minaret,
Alla hou achbar, twice repeated, Allah la il Allah,
etc. The Catholics come in the evening and we
preach the truth to them.
"MONDAY, Dec. 1.
"Attend the Nestorian prayer in the morning
before sunrise. The priest alone, in a dark room,
repeats them from memory; two prayers and five
or six psalms. He can repeat all the Psalms by
heart. One old woman comes, none of the people. We ride to Jesireh, have much detention in
crossing the river; find there a new Moodir, Sadik
Agha, a fine-looking, energetic man, who receives
us with much politeness. The Medghis come in,
Cadi, and various dignitaries, ten in number;
2,000 population, 1,500 Moslems, 500 Christians.
"Meet with Lord Henry Ker, of the English
embassy to Persia, travelling by post, and bearer
of despatches to Diarbekir and Aleppo. He dines
with us in Anglo-Turkish style. We then bid
farewell to our friends, Shemmas and the Doctor,
and ride in company with his Lordship two hours
upon the road. He is a very affable and pleasant




MOUNT JUDY.              287
gentlemen, twenty years of age, and has travelled
much in the East. We ride two hours longer
over a very stony road, and arrive just at sunset
at the Koordish village of Hemdik; 10 houses,
50 population; situated in the midst of the plain,
bounded by snow-crowned mountains.; TUESDAY, 2.
"Have a splendid sunrise view from our housetop over Mount Judy, where tradition relates that
Noah's ark rested, and the dove plucked the
olive branch from the plain.
" In one hour came to the village of Babin, an
old ruined town. The Onbashi refuses us a horseman. We continue our way past two small
Koordish villages, over a wretchedly rough,
rocky road, and lunch at noon on a little green
spot in sight of the village of Ainser. Just before
sunset arrive at Deir Ona. The Moodir is holding his medghis in the open air, clothed in a scarlet
cloak. He is very civil-says he will give me
horsemen, and begs me not to report the Ornbashi
to the Pasha, who dishonored the Sultan's firman
-One hundred and fifty population, Moslems and
Jacobites.  Hadji Suleiman Agha, very civilcomes himself on his fast horse, one half hour, to
make ready a konak for us.
"We spend the night at the Koordish village
of Atim-forty population; ten Jacobites.




288                VIEWS.
" WEDNESDAY, 3.
"We are in the saddle at sunrise; in one hour
we cross the plain with the Sinjar hills on our left
and the Marian mountain on our right, and the
vast (chul) desert stretching before us, we come to
the village Bannet, on a little mound-one hundred and fifty Jacobites, Armenians, and Moslems.
The villages are all upon raised mounds; peasants
are ploughing and sowing in the fields, and the
land is productive.
"The white church of Nisilin is seen in the
morning sunlight far away.' "We lunch at noon in sight of the snow-crowned
mountains just rising above the wide spreading
plain like peaks of light and purity exceedingly
beautiful. A raised mound gives us a splendid
view in all directions; stop at the village. The
Kahya Shukuro is very polite and cordial in his
greetings and attention. We then gallop on across
the plain, passed several mound-built villages,
and in two hours come in sight of the large barrack of Nisilin. Mule falls sick on the way;
treatment and tears of muleteers. Meet several
troops of soldiers, a Koordish chief with his guard
-see the women coming to the wells with their
rope to draw water; arrive at sunset across the
river Chebar at Nisilin. Again we see another
river where the Prophet Ezekiel is said to have
seen the sublime visions of Jehovah and his glory.




ROMAN RUINS.              289
We find a curious room full of soldiers seated
round a good fire, smoking and drinking coffee.
Call upon the nakie of Moodir; send for the
Usbashi, and dispatch two horsemen for our
mules. Have a long konak, and comfortable
quarters for the night.
" THURSDAY, 4.
"See the ancient river Chebar from the housetop winding far through the plain. We ride two
hours over the plain. On the left partly desert, on
the right cultivated land, and arrive at the ruined
barracks, Russer Sercha Rhan. A few miserable
Arabs are quarrelling over their measures of
barley; a half dozen stone huts filled with women
and children are inclosed within the ancient walls.
" We lunch to-day upon the open plain. Then
in two hours we come to Dara. It is well situated
on a hillside in front of the great plain, and beside
a stream of pure water.
" Here are extensive old Roman ruins, temples,
theatres, bridges, immense blocks of hewn stone,
and all the marks of their ancient power. Also
many tombs and sepulchres cut in the rock. Two
hours more over hill and valley bring us at sunset to the village of Harin; three hundred and
fifty population-all Arabs, who spend the winter in their houses here, and in summer take their
tents and flocks, and go out into the desert. The
25




290               PATRIARCH.
Kahaya Seid Hassein is a good specimen of the
Arab character; invite him to come to England;
have a pleasant talk with him in the evening.
The Shammar Sinjar and Anasee, occupy the
whole of the desert to Baghdad and Damascus.
He says the Sinjar are no more; they have become
Yezidee.  The village is situated near an old
mound, and beside a well and running water.
See a large caravan of camels coming in the evening to rest here.
"FRIDAY, 5.
"Beautiful morning; see women and girls drawing water from the well with their own ropes, to
water the mules and camels, as in Scripture days,
in ancient Mesopotamia.
"We then ride across the fertile plain to the
mountain side. Mardin rises high above us with
a castle fortress higher still. The air is pure and
bracing. The son of the Kahya, mounted on his
fine Arab horse, performs feats of horsemanship
in curves and circles around us. Climbing over
the rugged, rocky ascent in one hour, we come
to the convent Deir Zafetran, the residence of the
Patriarch of the Jacobite Church, in the East,
Patriarch Jacob.* It is beautifully and securely
situated, commanding a wide view over the plain
and desert. There is good water, cistern, well,
fountain, springs. Grapes and figs are cultivated,




RELIGIOUS SERVICES.           291
and wheat and barley. The Patriarch and his
vakel are absent. Two of his Rahab and Shemmas,
Priests and Deacons, receiye us very kindly and
provide us with eggs, cheese and bread for refreshment. They show us through the convent, and to
the church. It is adorned with red-colored paintings of the Saviour, the Apostles, Saints, and the
Virgins upon the walls. They do not worship
these as do the Catholics, but pray to Christ alone.
They have a large silver gilt Gospel before the high
altar. I find a copy of the Bible in Arabic and
Syrian here.
"' They pray seven times a day, and spend the
remainder of their time in writing manuscripts.
They pray at midnight and before sunrise, midday and sunset; three times in the church. The
wooden bell, struck with a large stick, sounds the
hour for prayers at noon. We attended the service in the church. They cross themselves, bow
down, chant their prayer from a book, then draw
aside the curtain from  before the high altar,
where a lamp is burning, then cross and prostrate
themselves, and chant a short prayer again.
The chapel is hung round with glass and gilded
lamps. They all go forward and kiss the cover
of the Gospel and the stone of St. John. They
listen with much interest and with tears in their
eyes to our spiritual conversation, after service.
We tell them  they must pray for the Holy




292              MARDIN.
Spirit to guide them in the way of all truth.
The Saviour promised to his disciples to give
them the Comforter, to dwell within them unto
everlasting life. They must pray not only with
the lips, but with the heart. A very interesting
visit. We then came into a smooth winding path
among the hills (stone churches cut in the rocks,
rise high above), and in one half hour we arrive
at the Jacobite village of Kala Mora (Woman
Castle). High above is a strong castle held by a
woman against Tamerlane the Great, until he retired from its walls. A few minutes more bring
us in sight of Mardin, a strong walled city on
the mountain side, overlooking the plain and
desert that stretches 280 miles towards the south.
A  strong fortified and strongly guarded castle
commands the whole. Mardin has a population
of 10,000; 5,000 Moslems; 2,000 Jacobites;
2,000 Armenians; 400 Chaldeans; 500 Assyrians;
100 Jews. We are met at the gate by a cavass,
who conducts us to the house of Howadji Yuseph,
a Catholic Armenian of large wealth. He receives us very hospitably into an elegantly carpeted and cushioned room, and makes every
effort to contribute to our entertainment. The
Pasha also sends his Usbashi (major) to meet and
accompany us to the Ronak, and inquire what is
our wish. Then we pay him a visit at the house
of Suleiman Agha (Caimakan). Aali Pasha re



BISHOP.               293
ceives is with great courtesy.  He is a noble,
soldier-like man, of much personal presence. He
was engaged in the war on the Danube and at
Kars. He is a great friend of General Williams
and the English. We tell him that our journey
thus far in the Turkish empire, from Stamboul,
has been very agreeable, as we have a great firman from the Sultan. We have been treated
with much politeness by all the Pashas, Moodirs,
and officers of the Sultan.  Only one Usbashi
have we met with who said he did not know the
Sultan Abdul Medjid or his firman; neither did
he care for the Pasha, and he would give us no
guard. He immediately sends for his usbashi,
(major) and orders the corporal to be removed
from office, arrested, and brought to Mardin in
irons. Thus summarily is justice dispensed in
Turkey.  He was dressed in Frank style, and
very cordial in his manner.
" Returning thence, the Jacobite bishop (Matran
Joseph) calls upon us. A fine-looking, benevolent, venerable man, very like the archbishop of
Mosul. He loves much the Bible, is well in.
structed in the Scriptures, and desires all his
people to have the Bible. It comes from God,
tells us of Jesus Christ and the Gospel of salvation, and guides us to heaven.
"We tell him if we both pray for the holy spirit to
dwell in our hearts, we may hope to meet in heaven.
25*




294               PASHA.
"We then go out to take a Turkish bath. Our
host has it all made ready, clean, and scented
with incense. We are greatly refreshed, and return with a good appetite for dinner. Our host
dines with us at his round table, loaded with
various and excellent dishes, pilaff, meats, peaches,
etc. We have pleasant spiritual conversation at
dinner; he seems to be a true Christian at heart.
He is a noble specimen of an Armenian gentleman, dressed in a fur robe, with black hair and
eyes, intelligent and affable. He wishes to send
his children to America, or England to be educated. He is an adopted son of the Sultan, and
all his property falls into his hand when he dies.
He is also the head of all the Rayahs in the
city.
" Our beds are made in comfortable style, and
we retire very agreeably for the night.
"SATURDAY 6.
" A magnificent morning. The Aali Pasha and
the Carmakan Suleiman Agha call upon us this
morning at our konak. We have a very pleasant visit with his Excellency; he is exceedingly
courteous and polite. A fine, commanding man.
Our host accompanied us on horseback without
the walls of the city. The road is more steep,
rugged, and rocky beyond description. In two
hours and a half we lunch on the sunny mountain




LAST LETTER.            295
side, near a stream of cool water, and have before
us a wide-reaching view of the surrounding landscape."
These were probably the last words that Mr.
Righter wrote. On this day he complained of
being unwell, and in a few days he was no more.
The following was found in his coat pocket
after his death, and was broken off like his own
career, in the midst:
"MOSUL, ASIA MINOR, Nov. 14, 1856.
"MY DEAR MOTHER: How greatly we have
enjoyed our visit to this distant missionary station, on the river Tigris, near the city of Nineveh,
to which Jonah preached at the command of the
Lord; and they repented in sackcloth and ashes,
and'God repented of the evil that he had said
that he would do unto them and did it not,' but
afterwards overthrew the city for their sins with
terrible destruction.
" The good missionary brethren have given us
almost an angel's welcome in this far-off land.
Yesterday we rode out to visit the ruins of Nineveh, that was destroyed by fire, and is now buried
beneath the crumbling earth of sun-dried brick.
The gateways, palaces, and temples have been
excavated in deep trenches. We descended underground into these, and there saw the huge,




296          RUINS OF NINEVEH.
human-headed winged bulls, standing where they
were worshipped, at the entrance of the palace
temple.
" We saw also the battle scenes of the ancient
Assyrians traced upon the walls of their temples:
the king in his chariot, the discharge of arrows,
the conflict and victory, and the captives brought
from far. The siege, too, of a walled city, the
towers, battlements, and palm-trees of ancient Tyre,
that was conquered by the Assyrians. The cuneiform, arrow-headed, ancient writing, describing
these scenes, was also traced upon the blocks of
stone underneath. It was most interesting to see
with



CHAPTER XXI.
LAST ILLNESS AND DEATH.
WHILE Mr. Righter was making the entry in
his note-book with which the preceding chapter
closes, he was suffering from the attack of disease
which terminated his valuable life. No account
of this last illness could be given in such fitting
and expressive language as that which is contained in the letters of his travelling companion,
Rev. Mr. Jones, and of the missionaries at Diarbekir, where it pleased God, in the great kindness of his providence, that his life should be terminated. Nowhere upon the face of the earth,
save in the home of his parents, could he have
breathed out his life with more tender evidences
of the loving-kindness of his heavenly Father,
into whose home he was taken. He died literally in the midst of brethren and sisters, and all
the offices which long love could have performed
were bestowed upon him. The letter of Dr. Nutting, at whose house he died, gives a full account
of his last illness, and this is first quoted:




298               LETTER.
LETTER FROM REV. DAVID H. NUTTING, M.D.
" DIARBEKIR, ASSYRIA, December 16th, 1856.
"To the Parents, Brothers, and Sisters of
"the late Rev. C. N. RIGHTER.
"DEAR FRIENDS-A sad duty now devolves
upon me: I am to undertake to give you an account of the last sickness of your son and brother.
You will have learned from the letter of Rev.
Mr. Jones, his companion in travel, that Mr. R.
did not consider himself sick until the 6th instant,
the day they left Mardin, a city about fifty miles
south of this, although he had for two or three
weeks previous had little appetite, and sometimes
complained of chilliness. At their noon lunch
that day, when he made his last entry in his journal, he complained of being very chilly, although
he had three coats on, and was sitting in the sun,
and had his servant hold an umbrella to protect
him from the wind. From  that place they had
ridden on only about two hours, when, as Mr. R.
still felt cold and somewhat ill, it was thought
best that they turn aside to a village, called Zahnkir, to spend the night and Sabbath. They hoped
that by taking some thoroughwort or sage tea to
induce perspiration that night, and resting the
next day, he would be well and able to proceed
to Diarbekir on Monday the 8th. But Monday




MR. JONES.              299
came, and he was not well: had suffered much
pain in right side and shoulder, and had some
feverishness. Mr. Jones administered some medicine to him (very suitable to his condition, I think),
and it operated favorably, and the next morning
he was much better. It was decided that Mr.
Jones go on with one servant and zabtier to Diar
bekir that day (and inform me of Mr. R.'s sickness, so that I could go down to meet him),
leaving Mr. R., with the other servant, and zabtier, and carterjees, to start on two or three hours
after sunrise, when the morning frost would have
disappeared. He hoped to be able to proceed
five or six hours that day, and the following to
reach this city. That evening Mr. Jones came,
and to our great surprise Mr. R. came not with
him. He immediately told us that he left Mr. R.
ill a few hours out, but that he was much better
that morning, and hoped he would be able to.
come easily the one day's journey in two.
"In the morning, after breakfast, with our
good Deacon Shimas, I rode down the river on
the road to Mardin, hoping to meet Mr. Righter
three or four hours from the city. It was a clear,
lovely day, like pleasant October days in N. E.,
and the road was excellent. We had proceeded
about three and one half hours, when we met
Mr. Righter's servant, carterjees, and baggage.
We asked where Mr. R. was. They said he had




300            MEETS MR. R.
gone on, before with the cavass or zabtier, and
were surprised that we had not met him. We
concluded he had taken another road, and turning, followed on after him. At the village of'Cahby-kir' we overtook him. He had stopped
to rest a few moments, and was standing before a
house with a crowd of natives around him. As
I rode up I was struck with his unusual slowness
in greeting me. He did not seem particularly
weak, but spoke and moved like a man benumbed
with cold. He said he had come very easily, and
was not much fatigued. He was sipping a little
brandy and water, which he said he found much to
refresh him. I asked him if he would not go into
a house and lie down awhile before proceeding.
He thought it unnecessary and not desirable, particularly as it might make us late in reaching the
city. Soon we mounted and rode quietly on.
He was on an Arab horse, which he bought in
Mosul, and which he said carried him with very
little motion and jar. He was very glad to be
informed that several letters for him had arrived
since he went to Mosul, and said he had anticipated having a feast of letters when he reached
Diarbekir. When we were about a mile and a
half from the city we were met by Mr. Walker
and Mr. Jones, whom he was much pleased to
see, and thanked for coming to meet him.
"It was nearly four o'clock when we reached




AT DIARBEKIR.           301
my house. We took him immediately up into
our parlor, and he sat for awhile by the stove in
the rocking chair, before having his overcoats,
riding boots, and hat taken off, fearing he might
take cold if his outer clothing was removed too
suddenly. He then walked about the room a
minute or two, and, at my request, laid down
upon a lounge. Soon I brought the letters to
him, and he looked them all over, and said he
knew from whom each one came, by the handwriting and postmarks. He then laid them aside
saying he was then too much fatigued to read
them. Mrs. N. then brought him a cup of tea
and soda crackers, and he sat up by the table. I
had brought to him also a wash-bowl, etc., but he
seemed not to have resolution sufficient either to
wash, or take the tea even; and requested me to
allow them to stand by him a little while. After
sitting awhile he seemed to revive, washed, drank
his tea, and proposed to go down to dine with us,
but did not go, as I thought it would be too
much for him in his exhausted state. Soon I
asked him to the bed-room adjoining the parlor,
and he laid down saying he felt very grateful for
such a comfortable bed and pleasant room. I was
with him all the evening, and though he did not
sleep, he seemed to be resting. He had considerable fever, as he said he had had for three or
four nights previous. At 11 o'clock he thought
26




302       o      ROWS WORSE.
he needed nothing more and should sleep: and as.vir. Jones was to sleep in the same room, and his
servant in an adjoining one, he said it was entirely
unnecessary for me to sit up longer, and he
begged I would retire. I did so.
"Early in the morning (Thursday) I went to
his room and he seemed much better, had slept
considerable, and his fever had abated. He continued thus till 10 o'clock, when he began to have
pain, first in his side, then in his back, and then
all over. He said,'Doctor, something is wrongsomething has given way within.' Soon he was
relieved of the pain, and seemed quite easy. I was
with him all the forenoon, endeavoring to ascertain as definitely as possible, the nature and state
of his disease. I at first suspected it might be disease of the liver; and upon examination I found
there was a slight enlargement, just below the ribs
on the right side. Not long before now, as I was
sitting by him, he said,'Doctor, I think I ought
to tell you I am deranged; but you need not
mention it to others.' I thought that perhaps
want of sleep and nervous exhaustion had brought
his mind into such a state, and that it would soon
pass away. A little before noon I had occasion
to leave the room for a few minutes, and upon
returning I found Mr. Jones sprinkling water into
his face. Ile said that Mr. R. was taken with
shivering and trembling, and seemed to faint.




ENGAGED IN PRAYER.          303
As I came up to the bed, I saw he was still trembling, and his lips were moving as if in prayer.
Just then he seemed to faint, saying,' I am going,
I am going.' I applied some spirits of camphor
to his nose, and he revived, saying,'Lord, I will
repent.' The servant told me that while I was
out before noon, Mr. R. was much engaged in
earnest-prayer. For six or eight hours from this
time he answered none of our questions, although
he turned his eyes sometimes towards the person
who addressed him. All this time I was with
him, and felt exceedingly anxious for him. I
looked upon the shivering I had seen as an indication that the inflammation of the liver had resulted
in suppuration, and an abscess was being formed;
and then he could not probably live many days.
I thought that he probably, too, had a presentiment that his time was short, and that he was endeavoring by meditation and prayer to secure a
preparation for the great change that awaited him,
and during these hours, many, many were the
prayers I offered that our heavenly Father would
be near to comfort and sustain him as he approached the valley of the shadow of death. In
the evening he had several naps, and each one in
succession longer than the one preceding.  At
nearly ten o'clock he awoke from a quiet sleep of
more than half-an-hour, and seemed to be himself
again. He said he had been in a trance. He had




804               LETTERS.
known all that we had said to him but was unable
to answer our questions.' We then moved him
into the parlor, where we had prepared a bed for
him. He sat up nearly a half hour, and conversed
quite freely, and then laid down. He seemed
very comfortable, and said,' All is peace and joy.'
At a late hour I left him, with one of his faithful'servants to watch-with him, and Mr, Jones sleeping in the same room. He had not as much fever
as the previous night, and slept considerable.
Next morning (Friday) at five o'clock I went in
to see him, and he said,' Doctor, I have had some
refreshing sleep, and am much better, will you
please to bring me those letters from my dear
friends, I think I am able to read them now.' I
brought them, and he opened and read them all,
excepting one, which he said he knew contained
nothing but a draft on Baring Brothers, I think.
In the letters from his two brothers he seemed
much interested; and he told me they contained
good news from his far-off home-which to him
was like cold water to a thirsty man.  After
breakfast, we had family prayers in the parlor,
and he seemed to enjoy the season very much.
A portion of Scripture having been read, he united
with us in singing the 402d hymn of the' Temple
Melodies,' commencing:
"' How firm a foundation, ye saints of the Lord,
Is laid for your faith in his excellent word.'




BETTER.               305
As he sang the last verse I could but feel that
no one could sing it with the heartfelt confidence
he evinced, unless he had in exercise a strong and
living faith in Christ. That day Mr. R. appeared
so decidedly better, that we began to hope that
my previous conclusion in regard to his disease
was incorrect, and that he would recover. I think
also that he had hope that he would soon be well.
Mr. Jones was very anxious to prosecute the journey as soon as possible; and he asked Mr. R. if he
should contract with a muleteer to be ready to
start with them on the following Monday for Aintab. He replied,'Yes, I think it would be well
to do so.' That night he had more fever than
during the day, but not as much as the first nights;
and during the greater part was in a gentle perspiration; yet he was rather restless and did not
sleep, as I hoped he would. Saturday morning,
instead of finding him better than the previous
day, he did not appear quite as well, and our
hopes were somewhat lessened. In answer to Mr.
Jones' inquiry, he said that the contract had better be made for Tuesday instead of Monday. His
fever began to appear more like a hectic than a
remittent fever. Still he seemed very cheerful and
hopeful. That evening, thinking that it was very
important that he should sleep, I gave him a
powder of morphine.
"Sabbath morning, when I asked him how he
26*




306               WORSHIP.
was, he replied,'much better, Doctor, I slept a
part of the night, and oh! it was such a refreshing sleep! I am all right now, Doctor-all right.'
Not long after this, as he was apparently waking
from a nap, I heard him utter these words,'Who
doeth all things well.'  He slept considerable
during the A.M. In the P.M. he said he thought
a warm bath would do him good. I was then
just going to meeting and told him that, on my
return, I would see about his having a bath.
When I returned from our place of worship I
found he had ordered the servants to bring hot
water, etc., and had taken his bath. He told me
it was the most delightful bath he had ever taken,' Such pleasurable physical sensations.' Mr. and
Mrs. Walker called in after meeting, and he
seemed very happy to see them. He said that
that had been the happiest Sabbath of his life-'So quiet, so peaceful, so joyous, so glorious.'
Soon after he heard us inviting Mr. Jones to
preach that evening to the members of this station, and he said,' O yes, friend Jones, do give
them a sermon!'
"Mr. Jones, Mr. and Mrs. Walker, Mr. and
Mrs. Knapp, fMrs. Nutting and myself, met in our
dining room at 7 o'clock; and after the usual introductory exercise conducted by Mr. Jones, he
preached a very excellent sermon from the seventh
verse of the 57th Psalm. After that we sang




DELIRIUM.              307
several hymns, accompanied by the melodeon.
In the meantime Mr. R. was attended by the two
servants. At nine o'clock I went up to his room
and found him apparently very happy and inclined to talk much. I told him we had enjoyed
our meeting exceedingly, and felt sorry he was
unable to be with us. I asked him how he had
been.'In a delightful state, Doctor; oh, such
glorious views as I have had' Soon he began to
sing"  Awake my soul, stretch every nerve,' etc.
and parts of several other similar hymns. I noticed that he appeared very much excited, and
threw his arms about in a restless, nervous way,
and I was not long in coming to the conclusion
that he was delirious. We tried to keep him
calm and quiet, but he grew worse for several
hours. Mr. J. and Mrs. N. were up till after
midnight, and (with two servants) I was standing
by him all night. Frequently, after a few moments of sleep, he would break out in singing, or
would speak as if preaching, or making an address. Once or twice he said,'Oh, I see the glory
of the Divine Nature, nearer and nearer it comes
-how beautiful-how glorious!' The latter part
of the night he began to be more quiet, and in
the morning, Monday, he slept considerable; and




308               SINKING.
during the day he seemed nearly free from delirium, and always answered our questions intelligently. His pulse was quicker and weaker than the
preceding day, owing, I thought, in part, at least,
to the excitement of the night before. Towards
evening, Mr. Jones having gone over to Mr.
Walker's, Mr. R. requested me to send for him,
and said he had something to tell him.' I want
to tell him of the glory of God.' In the evening
Mr. Walker came, and kindly offered to sit up
with Mr. R. that night, and give me an opportunity to rest. Having given direction in regard
to the medicine to be given, before 10 I retired.
Just before Mr. R. requested Mr. W. to wind up
his watch. During the night he was somewhat
delirious, but not nearly as much so as the preceding night.  He was in a gentle perspiration
most of the time, and in the morning, at 5 o'clock,
when I came into the room, he seemed very quiet,
but extremely sensitive to cold, and frequently
repeated the words-'keep me warm-keep me
warm.' I found his pulse much weaker than it
was the preceding day. He said he had no pain,
and was very easy and quiet. After breakfast,
as I was by him, I inquired whether any of the
letters he had just received were from his father
or mother; and he said there was no letter from
them, but two were from his brothers, and when
he became stronger he would write to them. I




DEATH.                 309
told him I would not tire him with questions, for
he needed rest.'Yes,' he replied,' after I have
rested awhile, I shall be better.' Sometimes he
would say-' God is good;' and several times he
prayed —'Lord, deal gently with thy servant.'
He continued quiet, and sleeping much of the
time till half past-ten. I was with him all the
time, and knew he was gradually growing weaker,
but did not think he would leave us so soon as
he did. I found at that time his pulse no longer
perceptible, and his breathing was short though
easy. I went and told Mr. Jones that I feared
he would not be long with us, and when I returned to the bedside, I found his eyes open and
fixed. I spoke to him, but he made no reply,
though he continued to breathe till about eleven,
when his spirit quietly left the frail body, and
soared away to the blessed mansion where sickness, suffering, and sorrow are no more. So his
prayer was answered. The Lord did deal gently
with him, and his end was perfect peace. I have
not time now, my dear friends, to write more. I
deeply sympathize with you in your loss. I, as
well as the others of our station, became very
much interested in Mr. Righter; we loved him
as our brother. We still love to think of him as
our brother-a brother not lost, but before us
gone to a happy land, where after a few years,
at longest, we hope again to meet, and never part."




LETTER FROM REV. GEORGE C. KNAPP.
"DIARBEKIR, TURKEY, Wednesday, Dec. 17, 1856.
"DEAR AFFLICTED FRIENDS: You will learn
from the particulars of accompanying letters from
other members of this mission station of the Board
such intelligence as will cause your heart to bleed!
Dear friends, it is a sad as well as an unexpected
task that we are called upon, by the inscrutable
ways of Providence, to perform, while we think
what must be the anguish of spirit we shall occasion to each one who reads! May the Lord grant
you his grace to comfort and strengthen your
hearts under the present bereavement.
" Yes, your beloved son and brother, Chester
N. Righter is no more! This day it has been
our mournful duty to commit his remains to the
grave!
"Little did we think eight weeks ago when he
spent several days with is, the very picture of
health, exhibiting so freely his characteristic cheerfulness and resolution, that we should ever be
called to perform so sad a duty! Here ended his
earthly pilgrimage in a twofold sense. How true
that the Lord's ways are not our ways, and it is
not in man to direct his steps.
" In anticipation of your wishes to learn the
particulars respecting the burial services of our




FUNERAL.               311
departed brother, I will endeavor to give you
them as faithfully as my time will admit.
"Our brother died about noon of yesterday;
and we chose to depart from the established custom of this people of burying'the dead on the
same day of their decease, that we might make
the desired arrangements without confusion.
" Owing to this mission station being in its infancy no Protestant burial-place has been secured;
but our good deacon, Shemmas Sulleba, kindly
offered us a space owned by him in the Syrian
burying-ground. To feel secure from my fears
of dissatisfaction the bishops and patriarch of that
church were consulted, and they had no objection
to his being buried there, if Shemmas was willing.
"Two of the best carpenters in the city were
furnished by the English Consul, by whom they
were employed, who made the coffin of unusually
fine boards from Erzroum, which, fortunately,
Brother Walker had purchased a year ago. It
was made of the same shape common in America; and, according to the English custom, covered with fine black cloth. The inside was trimmed with white cambric, very tastefully plaited by
our ladies. In this the body was deposited, and
becomingly attired, according to the American
custom.
" And now imagine yourselves seated with us
in Dr. Nutting's spacious sitting-room. It is one




312              EXERCISES.
o'clock. P.Mi. In the east end of the room, seated
on a sofa, is H.B.M.'s Consul, Mr. Holmes, who,
with his lady, had come to mingle his sympathies
with ours; Major Gardin, an English officer, but
now a tourist and the Consul's guest; Mr. Mattrass, the Consul's Secretary, and Dr. Nutting;
while at their right is Rev. A. Walker; Rev. Mr.
Jones, from England, and Secretary of the Turkish Missions' Aid Society, and myself; and opposite us three are the ladies, Mrs. Holmes, Walker,
Nutting, and Knapp.
"This number probably constitute all the
Franks speaking English in this city. Nearly in
the centre of the room stands the table upon
which are the sacred remains; and the other half
of the room is crowded with the Protestant brethren and others. In the spacious court before us
are several hundred persons, as also many are on
the roofs of the house, all anxious to witness the
funeral of a foreigner.
"The religious exercises were as follow:
" 1. Singing the first twelve verses of the 90th
Ps. to a chant.
"2. Prayer by the writer.
"3. An excellent and appropriate address by
Rev. Henry Jones, based on Ps. xc. 12.
"4. Address by Rev. Mr. Walker in Turkish.
" 5. Prayer by Rev. Mr. Walker in Turkish.
"6. Singing,' I would not live alway.'




BURIAL.                313
"The above exercises occupied a little over an
hour. The remains were then borne on a hearse
by sixteen of the most prominent men of the
Protestant community. These were preceded by
two cavasses furnished by the Pasha as a mark
of respect; after the bearers were the Consul's
two cavasses. Then followed on horseback Rev.
Mr. Jones, the Consul, Maj. Gardin, Mr. Mattrass,
Rev. W., myself, Dr. S., and Harji Hargoss, the
Consul's Interpreter, and member of our church.
Then followed a large concourse of people, as we
proceeded through the main street leading to the
western gate. The ladies had taken another street
more retired and unobtrusive.
" Twenty minutes brought us to the gate, and
passing through we turned to' the left, passing
along some ten or twelve rods under the high
walls, after which, a sharp bend to the right,
winding our way mostly among the prostrate
tomb-stones about twenty rods, brought us to the
newly-prepared grave.
" The weather was mild and serene, and there
being no snow to be seen, the heavens being clear,
it resembled a genial day in spring.
"The exercises at the grave were:
" 1st. Singing,' There is an hour of peaceful
rest.'-Tune, Woodland.*
*'These three tunes we found in the " Temple Melodies.'
27




314                GRAVE.
"2d. Prayer by Rev. Mr. W.
" 3d. Prayer in Turkish by one of our church
members.
"4th. Benediction by Rev. Mr. W. in Turkish.
" The grave of ample dimensions, between seven
and eight feet deep, in the hard, red-clay soil, then
received its sacred trust. Under and about the
coffin, upon which was placed a firm construction
of boards, was deposited a large quantity of charcoal, to render more feasible disinterment should
it ever be desired.
"There were several hundred spectators, and
throughout the whole day there was perfect
order.
" Our task was done!  But oh! what an impressive lesson to mortal man! Here is one, who
a few days since had as good a prospect of a long
life as any of us, possessing apparently a firm,
robust constitution, but now numbered with the
dead! Let this teach the frailty of man. Let
this people, as they reflect upon the noble mission of our faithful departed brother, in furnishing them the lamp of eternal life, consider how
much efforts for their salvation do cost, and likewise the additional guilt of refusing that Gospel
thus costing so much sacrifice of life. May we,
who are permitted to remain here awhile'longer,
improve by this sad event, seeking to have our
hearts sanctified, becoming more faithful in'our




DR. SCHAUFFLER'S LETTER.         315
Master's service, and better prepared when he
shall summon us hence.
"Your affectionate
Brother in Christ,
"GEO. C. KNAPP."
LETTER FROM REV. DR. SCHAUFFLER.
" BEBEK, CONSTANTINOPLE, January 15, 1857.
"MR. RIGHTER-Very Dear Sir: The relation
which I sustained to your beloved son, now no
more among the' pilgrims and strangers' of this
world, leads me to send you an expression of my
heartfelt sympathy with you in your heavy bereavement. Your son was our next door neighbor, constantly in our family circle, of which he
was almost a regular member. In days of sickness he knew he could freely call upon us, as for
parental sympathy and care; and in his many
and useful labors, he consulted with me as an
older laborer in this field. When he left us, he
committed to me the Records, etc., of the Evangelical Alliance, of which he was the first Secretary, and it was my solemn duty to convoke the first
committee meeting after his decease-to communicate to them the intelligence of our sad bereavement, and to propose the resolutions relative to
his death, and the choice of another secretary.




316               LETTERS.
Your dear son was beloved by all who knew
him, and his usefulness, his zeal for the glory of
God and the good of souls, was manifest to all.
Even the Greek family with whom he lived (a
plain poor family), appreciated his worth, loved
him as a member of their household, and served
him, especially in days of illness, with a tenderness which showed that their hearts, not their
pecuniary interest, dictated their conduct. I was
the more delighted to see this, as it is so rare a
thing to get the true, heartfelt affections of this
nation. When the news of his death came, our
servant girls, returning from their humble habitation, remarked'They are crying themselves sick
over there, because Mr. R. is no more.' And so
I found them afterwards, sorrowing as for a brother. Perhaps you may improve, some time, an
opportunity to send them some trifle of an object as
a recognition of their kindness to your dear son.
A small thing would be of great value to them,
given on Mr. R.'s account, and lead them to feel
that their humble and unostentatious affection for
their friend was appreciated, and encourage them
in cultivating the better sensibilities of human
nature. You will excuse this suggestion, which
is made under the impression that such small
gifts are a blessing to him that gives, and to him
that receives, far, far beyond its pecuniary value,
which in such cases quite vanishes out of sight.




LETTERS.               317
"We have been in the room of your son to see
what he left behind. We find that he lived as'a pilgrim and stranger on the earth.'  There
are, however, objects enough that will interest
his parents and other friends, and they shall be
sent to you faithfully-viz. his remaining clothes,
and the articles he made daily or frequent use of,
and some curiosities he had gathered. I found
three books written full with pencil, like notes
by the way, or diaries. I have not examined
them, nor shall I do so, as they may contain
subjects of a private character. You will receive
them unread by any one, if Providence brings the
box to you in safety.
"And now, my dear sir, feeling somewhat
acquainted with you and Mrs. R., from having
seen several times your daguerreotypes (now
with several others in my keeping), I cannot but
express to you that this affliction may be so blest
and sanctified to you and your dear family, as that
you shall, one and all, devote yourselves to the
same Saviour whom your departed son loved and
served, and whom he now beholds and will behold forever. I am  sure, no member of your
dear family will take it ill, if an old missionary
friend of their sainted son and brother beseeches
them to prepare by faith in Christ, for a happy
meeting with the dear one they will never again
see on earth, in a better world, where,'those that
27*




818              LETTERS.
meet shall part no more, and those long parted
meet again.' Be ye likewise ready, for in an hour
when ye think not, the Son of Man will come.
How happy, if on that day, when the Lord Jesus
shall make up his jewels, you will be found then,
none wanting, an unbroken, undiminished family,
never to weep again. The Lord that gave him
grace, grant it to you all, and thus magnify in you
all the riches of his grace.
"With kind, sympathizing remembrance to
Mrs. R. and every member of your family,
"I remain, yours truly,
" W. G. SCHAUFFLER."




CHAPTER XXII.
TRIBUTES TO HIS MEMORY.
SOME of the tributes which have been paid to
the memory of Mr. Righter will form an appropriate close to this volume. Those who have
read the record of his life, as it has been sketched,
will need no farther testimony to the strength of
affection with which he was regarded by those
who were intimately acquainted and associated
with him, and to the loss which was sustained
by the cause to which he had devoted himself.
But it is proper that some of this testimony
should be preserved.
The following letter was addressed to the Secretary of the American Bible Society, by Rev. Dr.
Dwight, one of the Missionaries of the American
Board in Turkey:" CONSTANTINOPLE, January 10, 1857.
"MY DEAR SIR:-By the last post letters were
forwarded from this place to New York, and I
think one at least to yourself, communicating the
deeply afflictive intelligence of the early and sud.




320               LETTERS.
den departure of our dearly beloved brother and
fellow-laborer, and your Agent in Turkey, the
Rev. Chester N. Righter. I find it impossible to
make it appear a reality to my mind, he was so
recently among us; was so young, so ardent, and
energetic in his work, and apparently so necessary to all the good enterprises going forward in
this land. But it is, alas! too true. We shall
see his face and hear his voice no more, nor will
he any longer aid us in bearing the burdens of
the' day (not' night') of toil' in this land. He
has been called to a higher service, and we would
not that he should return to us, if that were possible. But we are permitted to mourn over our own
bereavement, and over the loss that has been sustained by the good cause here, in consequence of
his removal. And we are called upon to humble
ourselves before the mighty hand of God, and
confess our sins, that call for such rebukes and
chastisements. We will also pray that He will
soon send out other laborers to take the place of
our dear brother and of others who have fallen
in these whitened fields.
"I hope that your Committee will be early
directed by Providence to another man, to appoint to fill the place thus vacated.  Of its
importance I need not speak, except to bear testimony, as one upon the ground, that there is
plenty of work for such an agent to do.




LETTERS.               321
"But to return to Mr. Righter: I think you
will fell that your loss is a great one. This is
the universal feeling here in regard to ourselves
and this land. We had all become exceedingly
attached to him. He was so kind in all his ways;
so gentle in his spirit; so gentlemanly in his
manners; so active, energetic, and persevering in
every good word and work, and especially in his
great work on which his whole heart was set, of
disseminating as widely as possible, among all
classes, the pure Word of God; that everybody
admired and loved him.
" I am personally unacquainted with his parents
and friends, but I beg through you to offer
them my sincere condolence; and if it will be
any comfort to them  to read these few lines
which I have penned in the sincerity of my
heart, I beg that you will give them the opportunity.
" I take the liberty of enclosing for you and
also for them, if you think it best, or for any
other use you may think it proper to make of
them, two letters received by me in reference to
our dear young friend's death.
" It became my duty to announce the event to
the Hon. Carroll Spence, our Minister at the
Porte, and also to Rev. Horace M. Blakiston, the
very worthy chaplain of the British Embassy
here, and these are their replies. They will tell




322             RESOLUTIONS.
you in what esteem your late agent was held in
this country.
"I remain, my dear Sir,
"Most truly and sincerely yours,
" H. G. O. DWIGHT.
"To the Secretary of the American Bible Society."
At the meeting of the Board of Managers of
the American Bible Society, held March 5th,
1857, soon after the intelligence of his death was
received, after appropriate remarks by ithe Rev.
Dr. De Witt, the following minute and resolution
were unanimously adapted:
"Intelligence having been received, since the last
meeting, of the decease of the Rev. Chester N.
Righter, the Society's Agent for Tuirkey and
adjacent countries, the Managers would here
record their deep sense of sorrow in the loss
of this valued helper in our great Bible work.
Their hopes of his usefulness, which were strong
in the beginning of his labors, have been more
than realized in his subsequent history. His
communications from the Turkish capital, from
Greece, from the Crimea, from Egypt, Palestine, Asia Minor, and lastly from Mesopotamia,
all exhibit a union of good judgment, prudence,
and industry, united with a modest, catholic
piety, which have greatly endeared him to the




RESOLUTIONS.             323
Board, and rendered his loss a trial. That the
Board have not overvalued their deceased friend
is made apparent by the sympathy manifested in
his death at the various mission stations which
he visited, and by other classes of men around
him, both in public.and private life.
"While the Managers, therefore, record their sorrow at the death of their worthy Agent, they
would at the same time be grateful for the good
which he was permitted to accomplish; also for
the many kind attentions which he received in
his last illness, and for the manifold expressions
of regard for his memory in that ancient land
where his labors and his life ended.
"Resolved, That a copy of the above record be
transmitted to the relatives of the deceased, and
to those missionary and other friends at the East
who have shown so deep a sympathy in the loss
sustained.
"COPY OF RESOLUTIONS PASSED AT A MEETING
OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE CONSTANTINOPLE
BRANCH OF THE EVANGELICAL ALLIANCE,
HELD IN PERA, JANUARY 13TH, 1857.
"Resolved, That the news of the sudden death
of the Rev. C. N. Righter has filled us with sor



324            RESOLUTIONS.
row and dismay, and that we deeply deplore the
loss of so useful a laborer in the Bible cause, and
so active a member of this Committee.
"That while we bow with humble submission
to the Divine will, we would express to the
afflicted parents and friends of the deceased our
sincere sympathy, commending them to the consolations of Divine Grace, and praying that they
may all meet in Glory an unbroken family.
" That these resolutions be forwarded to the
parents and friends of our lamented fellow-laborer in America."
The above resolutions were moved by the
Rev. Dr. Schauffler, of the American mission,
and after an expression on the part of the various
members of the Committee present, of their high
esteem for Mr. Righter, they were unanimously
adopted.
Attest,
EDWIN E. BLISS,
Secretary.
CONSTANTINOPLE, Jan. 23, 1857.
FROM HON. CARROLL SPENCE, UNITED STATES
MINISTER FOR TURKEY.
" CONSTANTINOPLE, Jan. 7, 1857.
"MY DEAR SIR: I have just. received your
note informing me of the unexpected decease of




LETTERS.               325
Mr. Righter. The very kind personal relations
which have existed between Mr. Righter and myself, since his stay in this empire, causes me to
lament sincerely his untimely death. My intercourse with him for the last two years enabled
me to form a correct opinion of his worth as a
man, and his piety as a Christian; and while his
bland and amiable manners secured for him my
friendship, his zeal and energy in the prosecution
of the pious task in which he was engaged elicited
for him my sincere respect. Pious, without being austere-a sincere believer in the doctrines
of the religion professed by him, without being
intolerant-he gained the friendship and esteem
of many, and avoided the enmity of all. His
good common sense, his winning manners, his religious zeal, tempered by Christian charity towards all, his energy and perseverance of character, peculiarly fitted him to discharge the duties
of the calling to which it was his intention to
have devoted his life.
"Although his stay here has been short, his
efforts in behalf of Christianity have been untiring, and the good he has done here, by the distribution of the Word of God, will remain behind
him as a monument of his pious exertions, and
will, as it developes itself in coming years, keep
alive his memory in the recollection of those who
were witnesses of his Christian labors.
28




326                LETTERS.
"If it be a consolation to his relatives to learn
that, in fighting the great battle of Christianity,
he died upon the field of his struggle in its behalf,
still longing to continue the conflict, that consolation is theirs; and may the knowledge of that
fact, if it does not reconcile them to his loss, at
least soothe them with the hope, that their loss in
this world will be his gain in heaven.
" I beg you, should you write to his relatives,
to unite my condolence with your own upon this
melancholy occasion, and to express to them the
deep regret I feel at the death of one for whom I
entertained a sincere friendship.
" I am, my dear sir, truly yours,
" CARROLL SPENCE.
" Rev. H. G. O. DWIGHT, Constantinople."
Rev. Henry Jones, his travelling companion,
writes:
"There was everything in his life and death
calculated to afford comfort. He was a faithful
and zealous servant of God, sincerely and earnestly desirous of promoting His glory and the
salvation of souls by disseminating that gospel
which is the power of God. As an agent of the
American Bible Society, no one could labor more
devotedly or with more untiring zeal. Wherever
we journeyed, in every village, or city, or by the




LETTERS.              327
way, however wearied I might be, he lost no opportunity of promoting the most blessed object,
so dear to his heart. Scarcely had we arrived at
any mission station, when his inquiries would be
for the Bible store, if there was one, and what
arrangements could be made for the distribution
of the Word of God, and his anxieties would
never cease until he had accomplished his object.
Nor did he confine his labors to those who were
likely to appreciate them. He would spare no
pains to obtain an entrance for the Bible when
all others had failed to procure one. Well do I
remember his dragging me over many weary miles
to give the Bible to the Yezidees, or Devil-worshippers, and when he had succeeded, by dint of
most judicious management and prayerful anxiety
in obtaining a promise from the Yezidee chief
and his priest, to read the Word of God, his joy
was unbounded, and his prayers most fervent that
God would bless it to the conversion and salvation of that benighted people. Such was his life;
and his death, though it occurred in a far-off land
and far away from the home of his fondest earthly
affections, was attended with many circumstances
which cannot fail to afford satisfaction and comfort to the friends who loved him so dearly."
The correspondent of the London Christian
Times makes the following record of the event in
a letter to that paper:




828               LETTERS.
" CONSTANTINOPLE, Jan. 8, 1857.
" News has just reached this city of the sudden
death of the Rev. C. N. Righter, at Diarbekir, on
the 16th ult. He was the Agent of the American
Bible Society in Turkey, and the Corresponding
Secretary of the Constantinople Branch of the
Evangelical Alliance. He left this place in September last, in company with the Rev. Henry
Jones, Secretary of the Turkish Missions' Aid
Society, for a tour in Asia Minor and Armenia,
for the purpose of visiting all the missionary stations of the American Board. They proceeded
as far as Mosul, and came, on their return, to
Diarbekir, where Mr. Righter sickened of fever,
and died within a very few days. He was, in
many respects, a rare man, and his loss will be
most deeply felt in this country and in America.
He was, emphatically,'a burning and a shining
light,' laboring with untiring zeal, for the spread
of God's Word among all classes of the population of Turkey, and at the same time endeavoring, by all means, to promote throughout this
land the great objects of the Evangelical Alliance. And I may mention, for the interest it
will excite in Britain, that during the war Mr.
Righter was unwearied in his endeavors to furnish the soldiers of the allied armies, and also the
Russian prisoners, with the Bible in their own
vernacular tongue; and with this end in view, he




RECOLLECTIONS.           329
even went to the Crimea, during that first winter
of horrors, and was the means of administering
comfort to many a poor, sick, and dying soldier,
thus literally inheriting the'blessing of him who
was ready to perish.'"
The following was furnished to the New York
Observer by Wim. C. Prime, Esq., Mr. Righter's
travelling companion in Syria:
" RECOLLECTIONS OF RIGHTER.
"MY DEAR BROTHER: —I feel deeply the loss
of our friend Righter, and I cannot avoid giving
you some of my personal recollections of him, as
the companion of my last year's wanderings. He
surprised me one evening at Thebes, by entering
the cabin of my Nile boat, when I did not dream
of an American being within a hundred or many
hundred miles. My beard and bronzed face were
as strange to him as his to me. We did not
recognise each other.
"' I saw an American flag, and came over the
river, hoping to meet an American,' said he.
"' You are right. I am from New York. My
name is Prime.'' Is it possible? and mine is Righter.'
"I need not tell you my delight at this meeting. He passed the evening with me, and we
talked over his adventures with you two years
28*




330            RECOLLECTIONS.
before, as we strolled by moonlight through the
vast corridor of the temple of Luxor, under the
side of which my boat lay.
" I met him again at Cairo, and he went with
me to Jerusalem. It was not till after our arrival
in the Holy City that he made up his mind to
accept our invitation to join us for a few months
of tent life on the hills of the Holy Land. He
did at length join us, and was one of our little
family of four who went wandering in the footsteps of the Lord and the Apostles last spring,
and whom, as the companion of many thrilling
scenes, I shall never forget until I forget Jerusalem.
" We bathed together in the Jordan, and in the
Dead Sea; we studied together the page on
which Abraham read the number of his children,
as brilliant nowhere as it is above the oaks of
Mamre; we were together cast away by a gale of
wind on the Sea of Galilee; snowed under three
days on the side of Mount Hermon; went to
Damascus, to Baalbec, Beyrout, Tarsous, Rhodes,
Smyrna and Constantinople together: and during
all this time of constant hourly intercourse by
day and night, there was no one word of jarring,
no difference of plan, nor anything that I can
now recal of him, other than the most entire
amiability, warm-heartedness (if I may use the
word), and earnestness of desire to make all of




RECOLLECTIONS.           331
us happy. You will not think it strange that
M     and myself formed a warm attachment to
him, and feel this affliction, as you said last
week, like the loss of a brother.
" I remember with the utmost pleasure his
constant cheerfulness.  Nothing  oveicame it.
First up in the morning, he would always make
the air around the tents ring with a pleasant
morning song, and when, as not unfrequently,
our position was perilous or disheartening, he
was never discouraged.
" His frank, hearty piety was always before us.
He never yielded in a matter of duty one hair'sbreadth. I remember especially the day of our
approach to Damascus. It was Saturday. We
had been under snow three days on Hermon, but
determined this morning to reach the plain and
the city if possible. As the sun was setting, my
chief muleteer informed me that the mules could
not go on. It was still eight miles to Damascus, of
which the minarets and domes were shining in
the red sunlight above its groves and gardens. I
ordered a halt around the baggage, and soon
found that it was probably impossible to reach
the city. Righter alone differed from me, but
solely on his own account. He had told me in
starting with us, that he could not travel on Sunday, and such was my own intention also. I
now regarded it as my duty to remain with the




332           RECOLLECTIONS.
baggage, and come on to the city early on Sun.
day. There was none such on his part, and he
hired a guide and a fresh horse, paying a guinea
for the two, and set off alone for the city. I remember right well his cheerful face as he rode off
that evening across the magnificent plain, waving
his hand back to us as long as we could see him,
and riding his horse as if he were born on horseback. He was the best horseman, for an American, that I have ever seen, riding always freely
and gracefully.
" You have said nothing of your adventure at
Nablous, in which he saved you from Bedouin
spears. There was nothing in all my journey
that pleased me more in Righter than his modesty
at that spot. The Bedouins were again in commotion when we were there, and the Governor
of Jerusalem, with two hundred men, was a close
prisoner in the walls of Nablous, not daring to
venture out to go to Jerusalem, on account of the
state of the Arabs. We were unmolested here,
though we had to show our pistols the next day
near Samaria. But his account of your adventure, on the ground precisely where it occurred,
modest as it was, gave me a more thrilling idea
of your danger, and of his noble interposition,
than any previous descriptions had given. It
was characteristic of him. He was impetuous in
his feelings and actions, frank, faithful and noble.




RECOLLECTIONS.           333
"This journey to Mosul he had in mind when
we were at Damascus. M. and myself intended
to go on from Damascus, across the country, but
the state of the interior forbade a lady to attempt
this, and we reluctantly abandoned it. Still we
talked with him of accompanying him this winter,
a plan that was forbidden by our sad call to return to America. When we read his letter last
week in the Observer, describing his voyage
down the Tigris, we again and again expressed
our regret that we were not with him, and the
very day that you sent me word of his death, M.
had been saying'Don't you wish we were with
Righter on the Tigris?' I have often before me
the pleasures of that journey, yet to be made, but
I know no spot in all the East to which I shall
direct my steps with so much of interest and
grief, as to the grave of our friend. You have
already printed much that has been said by those
who knew him as a missionary, perhaps it will
not be out of place to print these memories of
him by one who knew him as a companion and
friend.
"W. C. P."




334                  TRIBUTE.
From the Bible Society Record.
ON THE DEATH OF THE REV. C. N. RIGHTER.
THE PILGRIM AT REST.
AND he is gone, the young, the noble hearted,
Who tenderest ties for his Redeemer burst,
And strong in faith, the Word of Life imparted
To those who for its precious tidings thirst.
Yes, God was good;* for by his mercy cherished,
He walked unhurt, where countless thousands bled;
And where his suffering fellow-creatures perished,
The " strong right hand" his steps in safety led.
Beside the bed where dying ones in anguish
Appealed for aid to light them on their way,
And where the weary in their sadness languish,
He stood, "a gentle presence," day by day.
I see the failing eye his face exploring,
Which, like an angel's, beams with lucid light;
I hear his voice, God's precious words outpouring
And holding Christ before the sinner's sight.
Not the mere form, oh, not the sculptured image;
Not the carved ivory, nor the senseless wood;
Not the racked form, the marred and blood-stained
visage,
With pierced hands extended on the rood I
* Mr. Righter " especially dwelt on the goodness of God:' How good
God is: 0 how good He is.' "-MR. WALKER.




TRIBUTE.                   335
Not this, but as a God of rich compassion,
The trembling sinner waiting to forgive;
Ready to wash him from each past transgression,
Receive him to His arms, and bid him live.
How many an eye, the mists of death o'erfilming,
Has brightened at thy words of gentle power I
How many a heart has opened glad and willing,
As to the rain, the parched and dying flower I
Glorious thy mission in that field of sadness,
And well fulfilled, until thou journeyed on,
With constant heart, upborne in Christian gladness,
To other lands, by Christ already won.
And as in devious ways thy feet were turning,
The Book of God still scattering by the way,
How brightly in thy heart His love was burning,
A fire by night, a sheltering cloud by day.
God was with thee, when o'er the current slowly
Floated thy raft, borne on with praise to Him;
He never left thee, pilgrim pure and holy,
In morning sunshine, or when day grew dim.
God was with thee! and when amid the mountains,
And in the glens, gleamed forth His power divine,
He gave thee there to quaff the living fountains,
Sweeter and purer than earth's costliest wine.
His goodness led thee till thy feet had entered
The little " Tadmor" where his children dwell,
And gave thee rest where his dear Church has centred,
Within the music of the Sabbath bell.




336                 TRIBUTE.
And then He called thee-oh, that voice so thrilling,
All that it said we cannot learn below;
But that with triumph all thy heart was filling,
Thy broken words have taught us well to know.
Oh, what a Sabbath of intense communion
Was that which God bestowed upon his child!
And, with his Saviour what a perfect union!
Oh, with what brightness the Deliverer smiled I
God's glory there was round about him shining,
His holy presence all the place imbued,
More and yet more the dying saint refining,
While round him crowds of weeping brethren stood.
As o'er her darling's couch a mother bending,
Lest fright or pain should make the loved one weep,
So by his couch his Saviour was attending,
Until He gave " to his beloved sleep."
Yes, thus He comes, and with his sweet caressing,
Soothes the dear child that He had died to save;
Lays hands upon him richly filled with blessing;
And guards his ashes in a foreign grave.
H. A. L.
February, 1857
THE END.