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PAGE CHAPTER L... 1 Important effects of the first intercourse between civilized and uncivilized men-General notice of the Sandwich Islands-Geographical extent and physical peculiarities of Hawaii-Elevation of the principal mountains-Portion of the soil capable of cultivationSituation and extent of Maui-Tahaurawe-MorokiniRanai-Morokai, and Oahu-Celebrated pass in the mountains of Oahu-Gods of the precipice-The town of Honoruru-Situation, extent, etc. of Tauai, Nihau, and Taura-Climate, temperature, soil-Physical character and number of the islanders-Natural historyBirds-Reptiles-Fish-Vegetables-Fruits-Early intercourse between the natives and foreigners-Discovery of the island by Captain Cook-Effects produced among the natives by the arrival of the vessels-The impressions received by the voyagers corrected by the residence of missionaries among the people. CHAPTER II...... 27 Arrival of British ships in Kearakekua Bay-Impressions produced by the event on the minds of Captain Cook and his companions-First intercourse with the natives-Captain Cook declared to be one of their gods by a priest-Captain Cook arrayed in the sacred cloth, b CONTENTS. and a sacrifice offered to him on board his ship-The natives prostrate themselves before him as he is con. ducted to the temple on shore-Captain Cook seated amidst the idols of Hawaii-A sacrifice and prayer offered by the heathen priest-A Christian sabbath-The encampment on shore rendered sacred, or prohibitedArrival of the king of the island-His visits to the ships -Presents to the captain-Ceremonies at the interment of one of the seamen-Abundant supply of provisions furnished by the natives-Departure of the ships —Their return in consequence of damage in a storm-Thefts committed by the natives-Attempt of Captain Cook to convey the king and queen on board-A chief killed by one of the ship's officers-Attack upon the party on shore-Death of Captain Cook-Manner of disposing of his body-Feelings of the natives-Divine honours paid to the remains of Captain Cook-Present state of the inhabitants of Kearakekua Bay-Subsequent intercourse between the natives and foreigners. CHAPTER III...55 Conquest of Maui and Oahu, by Tarnehameha-Frequent visits of shipping to the islands-Notices of Obukahaia, and George Taumuarii, son of the king of Tauai -Appointment of a mission to the Sandwich IslandsState of the islands on the arrival of the mission-Difficulties removed by the previous abolition of the tabu system and idol worship-First view of the islandsAppearance of the country —Intercourse with the people — First sabbath among the islands-Visit to the ruins of a temple-Introduction to the king and chiefs-Native amusements-Landing of part of the missionaries on Hawaii-Establishment of the mission at Oahu-De2 CONTENTS. 'Vii scription of native houses-Mission premises-Domestic accommodations-Return of Prince George to his father -The king's reception of his son-Appointment of a mission to Taui-First letter from the missionaries to the Missionary Society-Letters from the king and queen of Tauai-General state of the mission at the time the first communications were forwarded to America. CHAPTER IV...... 94 Account of the general state of the people, from the time of their discovery, to the abolition of idolatry, and the arrival of the first missionaries from America-Government of the Sandwich Islands-Monarchy absolute -Rank and offices hereditary-Political divisions of the country-The king sole proprietor of all landTenures by which land is held-Mode of levying taxes -Punishment of offences-Description of their cities of refuge-Courts of justice-General effects of the former system of government in the islands. CHAPTER V...... 111 Idols formerly worshipped by the Sandwich Islanders -Description of the images of Keoroeva-Mode of presenting offerings-Privileges of the sacred hogsMooarii, king of lizards-Karaipahoa-Tradition of the origin of this idol-Its supposed power over human life -P6le, the goddess of volcanoes-Account of her appearing to the chief Kahavari-Imagined effects of her anger-Universal dread of the gods of the volcanoesA visit to the great volcano-Native account of the god by whom it was supposed the crater was inhabited CONTENTS. Interview of the missionaries with a priestess of the volcano at Hawaii-Visit of Kapiolani, a chief woman, professing the Christian faith, to the volcano-Her descent to the crater-Engaging in the worship of the true God-Description of the visit of a priestess to the chiefs-Notice of the ruins of some of the heathen temples-House of Keave-Practice of sorcery-Methods employed by sorcerers. CHAPTER VI..... 139 Former frequency of war in the Sandwich Islands — Preliminary arrangements-Employment of diviners to ascertain the will of the gods-Offering of human sacrifices-Ancient arms, weapons, feather helmets, cloaks, and other war dresses-Tairi, the Hawaiian god of war -Idols carried before the armies going to battle-Conduct of the priests of the god of war-Notice of the last war in Hawaii, occasioned by the abolition of idolatryDeath of the idolatrous chief and his wife, on the field of battle-Treatment of the vanquished-Intimate connexion between the wars and superstition of the people -Usages observed at the death of chiefs-Cutting off the hair, knocking out the teeth, cutting the ears, and tatauing the tongue-Elegiac ballads-Introduction of the rites of Christian burial-Belief in a future statePrevalence of infanticide-Reasons for the commission of the crime. CHAPTER VII..... 159 First establishment of schools-Meetings for religious conversation and prayer-Study of the native language CONTENTS. ix -Fitting up a place for public worship-Arrival of the king at Oahu-Description of missionaries requiredLetter from the governor of the Russian settlement of Kamtschatka-Injurious reports respecting the objects of the mission, circulated by foreigners-Proposed voyage to the Society Islands-Visit of Rihoriho to Tauai -Public interview between the two kings-Establishment of the printing press-First printing in OahuVisit of the deputation from the London Missionary Society, with native Christians, to the islands-Detention of Auna, a native teacher-Invitation to Mr. Ellis to join the mission-Departure of the deputation-Return of Mr. Ellis and family-Fraternal correspondence between the missionaries-Religious service, in connexion with the public commemoration of the death of Tamehameha, and the accession of Rihoriho to the throne. CHAPTER VIII...... 190 Appointment of a reinforcement of missionaries for the Sandwich Islands-Services connected with their embarkation-Beneficial effects of their labours during the voyage-Approach to the islands-Description of Hawaii-Appointment of a mission to Maui-Embarkation-Attention of the king to his mother-First sabbath at Lahaina-Retrospect of the first week-Reflections of the missionaries-A deputation from the missionaries explore the island of Hawaii-State of the peopleCharacter of their idolatry-Amount of populationEligible stations for missionary efforts-Illness of Keopuolani-Her baptism and death-Observances connected with her interment-Notice of her character and deportment. CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX..... e 218 Recommencement of the mission at Kairua-Population of the station and neighbourhood-Favourable appearances among the natives-Proposal of Rihoriho to visit England and America-Council of the chiefsEmbarkation of the king and queen-Their attendants -Objects of the voyage-Their arrival in EnglandAttentions paid them by the government and nobilityVisits to places of public resort-Illness of the king and queen-Death of the queen-Death of the king -Interview of the survivors with his majesty George iv.-Character of Rihoriho-Character and disposition of the queen-Affecting circumstances attending her departure for her native islands-Appointment of the Blonde frigate to convey their bodies to the islandsFirst intelligence of their death received by the natives -Commendable conduct of the regent on the occasion -Political state of the islands-Arrival of the Blonde -Landing of the survivors-Interview of Lord Byron and suite with the king and regent-Landing of the bodies-Funeral ceremonies at Oahu-National council-Departure of the Blonde. CHAPTER X.... 248 Introduction of the rite of Christian marriage among the people-Commencement of a station at Byron's Bay and Kaavaroa-Death of Keeraumoku, the governor of Maui-Removal of his remains to Kairua-Illness of Taumarii —His experience of the supporting influence of the gospel-General lamentations among the peopleInsurrection in the island of Tauai-Preservation of the CONTENTS. mission family and Karaimoku-Removal of the missionaries to Oahu —Fearful out-breaking of immorality -Defeat of the insurgents-Clemency of the Christian chiefs towards the vanquished-Letter of LanuiMurderous treachery of one of the idolatrous warriors -Revival of religion after the war-Admission of native chieftains to the church at Oahu and Lahaina-Account of Buaiti, a blind man-Progress of educationLetters from the regent and the prime minister of the government to the secretary of the American Missionary Society-Hostility and violence of foreigners against the missionaries-Progress of improvement among the people-Departure of Mr. Loomis and Dr. Blatchley for America-Enactment of laws by the chiefs. CHAPTER XI...... 284 Prosperous state of the missionary stations in Hawaii -Visit of the regent Kaahumanu to Kairua-Her tour of part of the island-Recollections of TamehamehaEmbarkation of missionaries for the islands, on board the Parthian-The cordial welcome of the king and chiefs on landing-Visits to the islands of Ranai, Morokai, and Kahaurawe-State of the schools, and numbers under instruction-Efforts in favour of temperance -— Death of Mrs. Bishop-Notice of the first convert at Kairua-Attempts of Roman Catholic missionaries to introduce popery among the people-Visit of the Rev. C. T. Stewart to the islands-Religious state of the people at Byron's Bay-Native residence of the kingCommunications and presents from the American government to the king and chiefs-Judicious advice of Captain Finch-Proclamation of the king, in favour of morals and the observance of the sabbath.-Extent of XI1 CONTENTS. education-State of the schools-Meetings for religious improvement-Celebration of the ordinance of the Lord's supper-The station at Kaavaroa-Operations of the press-Arrival of additional missionaries-Improved system of education. CHAPTER XII.... 327 Enlarged preparations for printing the Holy Scriptures-Enactments of the chiefs in favour of temperance -Conversion of the priestess of the volcano-Improvement of the social condition of the people-Laxity of parental discipline among the people-Progress of temperance-Discontinuance of the use of tobacco among the native Christians at Lahaina-Attention to religion among the seamen-Increase of native churchesDeath of the regent Kaahumanu —Sketch of her character-Important effects of her death upon the nation -Establishment of normal schools-Brief mission to the Marquesas-First newspaper in the Sandwich Islands-Comprehensive view of the state of the mission in 1836-Congregations, churches, schools, and printing. ... HHHHHM-.............. MIIHHH--... .. MISSIONARY RECORDS. SANDWICH ISLANDS. CHAPTER L.!mportant effects of the first intercourse between civilized and uncivilized men- General notice of the Sandwich Islands- Geograp hical extent and physical peculiarities of Hawaii-Elevation qf the principal mountains-Portion of the soil capable of cultivation-Situation and extent of Maui* Thauaw -Mroini-Raai- Jiirokiand Oahu- Celebrated pass in the mountains o~ Oahu -- Gods of the preecipice- The town q/ Honoruru-,Situation, extent, etc. of Tauai —Ni hau, anid Taura — Climate, tee peratrec, soil-Physical character and num ber oj the i. lan ders-Natural history-Birds-P 'eptiles - Fish - Vegetables - FruitsE~arly intercourse between the natives andjforeiqners-Discovery of the island by Captain C~ookB fects3 produced among the natives by the arrival of the vessels - The rnprcssions received by the voyagers corretetd by tie residence of missionaries amsong the people. IN ti e historj of every nation there are periods which, as beinsg oreo than usually marked with events affecting the character and cirecu stances of the comrn isnty, are, regarded with deep arid deserv ed intecrest through smcce cdinggc~encrations. The comparativ importance of the changes'which L. 2 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. a nation may undergo, must depend very much on the rank it holds in the scale of general civilization and intelligence, and its relative position towards other nations; but in the annals of every people, seasons in which ancient and venerated institutions are insensibly superseded, in which the opinions and manners of the society are in a state of rapid transition, but especially in which its religious doctrines and usages sustain essential alterations, must ever merit an attentive regard. The history of the Sandwich Islands, towards the close of the last, and the commencement of the present century, is, on these acco unts, fraught with peculiar interest. It will be in the recollection of many, that, to a large proportion of existing political communities, the era referred to was an era unusually eventful; but it may be fairly questioned, whether among any people its progress was marked by changes more striking and important, than those which occurred within the interval to the Sandwich Islanders. All opinions respecting the time when the Sandwich and other islands of the Pacific were first peopled, rest upon mere conjecture; yet, from the extended genealogies of the reigning families, preserved by tradition among the islanders, as well as from other evidence to the same effect, there are strong reasons for believing that the present race have inhabited the Sandwich Islands from a remote period, perhaps for several centuries. Whatever may be the opinion, however, entertained on this subject, it is certain that both the islands and their inhabitants were unknown to the civilized world till discovered by 3 cXAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 3 Captain Cook, in 1778. They had indeed been seen by Spanish ships traversing the Pacific, between Acapulco in South America, and Manilla in the Philippine Islands, and had been visited once, at least, by foreigners; but, until the period under review, no account of their existence had been given to the world. The period of their discovery was the commencement of a new era, in the annals of geography and nautical science in our country; and the peculiarities of their state and circumstances gave rise to new speculations among the literati of Europe, respecting the perfection of what was called the savage state. By all the intelligent and inquisitive, they were regarded as constituting valuable additions to our knowledge of mankind It would be interesting could we form, in return, any correct idea of the strong emotions of wonder, and awe, and mysterious apprehension, which attended their first intercourse with civilized man. There can be no doubt, that, in general, the islanders at first regarded their visitors as superior beings. This impression was not weakened by the fatal experience of the new and terrible powers of destruction which the strangers brought with them; and which, on more than a single occasion, they most wantonly and murderously exercised. The possession of such powers could not fail to inspire their minds with emotions of superstitious dread; while the abundance of iron, clothing, etc. with which the ships and their crews were supplied, was fitted to act no less powerfully on their desires and hopes. It was only when the strangers, impelled by unbridled and vicious propensities, 4 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. reduced themselves, in seeking new gratifications, to the level of the savage, that the islanders changed their opinion of them, and found that however superior they might be in some respects, in others they were their equals, and even their inferiors. Whether intercourse of a kind such as now described, would have yielded the natives of the islands any benefits, at all commensurate with the certain evils they derived from it, is a questionable problem. But in the wise arrangements of the Supreme Ruler, by whora the course of nations, as well as that of individuals is directed and controlled, the visits of the first discoverers of the islands, and other subsequent navigators, were preparing the way for the arrival of visitors of another order, and actuated by motives of a very different kind; men who were influenced by the most sublime benevolence, who sought to ameliorate, and not increase, the sufferings of the ignorant tribes they were introduced to, and to lead them to the only true source of happiness in this world and the next. It will be easily perceived that reference is here mdade to the arrival of the missionary band which, in recent years, proceeded to the islands; and whose pious, judicious, and persevering efforts have, under the Divine blessing, been attended with a measure of success scarcely equalled in any scene of similar labour. To preserve a memorial, to the honour of Divine faithfilness and mercy, and encourage the people of God in other efforts, of which the good effects may be longer delayed, the following record of the progress of truth among the Sandwich islanders; of its effects :CHiAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 5 ulpon their character, pursuits, and prospects, has been prepared. But, before proceeding to this, sorme account of the geographical position and extent, and chief physical peculiarities of the islands; of the circumstances of their discovery; and of the general state of the people prior to the arrival of the missionaries, will, it is presumed, not be unacceptable. Although ten in number, only eight of the Sandwich Islands are inhabited; the other two being barren rocks, principally resorted to by fishermen. IIa-wai-i, (Owhyee,) the principal island of the group, resembles in shape an equilateral triangle, and is somewhat less than three hundred miles in circumference; being about ninety-seven miles in length, and seventy-eight in breadth, covering a surface of four thousand square miles. It is the most southern of the whole group, and, on account of its great elevation, is usually the first land seen by vessels approaching the islands. Its broad base and regular form render its outline different from that of any other island in the Pacific. The mountains of Hawaii, unlike the Peak of Teneriffe, in the Atlantic, or the mountains of Eimeo and other islands of the Pacific, do not pierce the clouds like obelisks or spires, but rise comparatively unbroken from the sea beach to the loftiest elevation. The whole appearance of Hawaii is less beautiful and picturesque than that of Tahiti, the principal of the Society Islands, but is, at the same time, more stupendous and sublime. On approaching the islands, the mountains of the interior are often B3 2 6 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. seen, long before the coast, or any of the usual indications of land are visible. On these occasions the elevated summits of Mouna Kea, or Mouna Roa, appear above the mass of clouds that usually skirt the horizon, like some stately pyramid or silvered dome, distinguished from the clouds beneath only by their well defined outline, unchanging position, and the intensity of brilliancy occasioned by the reflection of the solar rays from the surface of the snow. The height of these mountains has been computed, by some navigators who have visited the Sandwich Islands, at twelve thousand, and by others at eighteen thousand feet. Their base lies at the distance of a few miles from the seashore, and is covered with trees; higher up, their sides are clothed with bushes, ferns, and Alpine plants; but their summits, which are formed of lava, though this is partly decomposed, are yet destitute of every kind of verdure. The greatest part of the land capable of cultivation is found near the seashore, along which the towns and villages of the natives are thickly scattered. There are a few inland settlements on the east and north-west parts of the island, but, in general, the interior is an uninhabited wilderness. The heart of Hawaii, forming a vast central valley between Mouna Roa, Mouna Kea, and Mouna Huararia, is almost unknown: no road leads across it; but it is reported by the natives who have entered it, either to be " bristled by forests of ohia," or to exhibit vast tracts of sterile and indurated lava. CHAP..] SANDWICHI ISLANDS. 7 Hawaii is by far the largest and most important island of the group. Its population is about eighty-five thousand. Until within a few years, it was the usual residence of the king, and the frequent resort of every chief of distinction in the other islands. Foreigners, however, having found the harbours of some of the leeward islands more secure and convenient than those of Hawaii, have been induced to visit them in preference, and this has led the king and principal chiefs to forsake, in a great degree, the favourite residence of their ancestors, and, excepting the governor and the chiefs of Kaavaroa, to spend the greater part of their time in the other islands. Separated from the northern shore of Hawaii by a strait, about twenty-four miles across, the island Mau-i (Mowee) is situated, in lat. 200. N. and long. 157~. w This island is forty-eight miles in length, in the widest part twenty-nine miles across, about one hundred and forty miles in circumference, and covers about six hundred square miles. At a distance, it appears like two distinct islands; but, on nearer approach, a low isthmus, about nine miles across, is seen uniting the two peninsulas. The whole island, which is entirely volcanic, was probably produced by the action of two adjacent volcanoes. The appearance of Maui resembles Tahiti more than the neighbouring island of Hawaii. The southern peninsula is the largest of the two, and the mountains in it are lofty; but though their summits are often seen above the clouds, they are never covered with snow. The high land is steep and rugged, and * I 8 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. IL frequently marked with extinct craters, or indurated streams of lava; yet, wherever the volcanic matter has ndergone any degree of decomposition, the sides of the mountains, as well as the ravines by which they are intersected, are covered with shrubs and trees. In the northern peninsula there are several extensive tracts of level and well watered land, in a high state of cultivation; and, although this part of the island is evidently of volcanic formation, the marks of recent eruptions, so frequent in the southern peninsula, are seldom seen here. The population of Maui has been estimated at eighteen or twenty thousand; and the real number of its inhabitants does not probably fall far short of that amount.; To the south of Maui, and only a few miles distant from its southern peninsula, is situated the small island of Ta-hau-ra-we, about eleven miles in length, and eight across. It is low, and destitute of every kind of shrub or verdure, except a species of coarse grass. There are but few settled residents on the island, and these are considered as under the authority of the governor of Maui. MJ-o-roki-ni, a barren rock, which lies between these two islands, would render the navigation of the strait exceedingly dangerous, were it not so much elevated above the sea, as to be at all times visible from vessels passing between the islands. Morokini is only visited by fishermen, who on its barren surface spread their nets to dry, and for this purpose it may be considered a convenient appendage to the adjacent islands. CHAP. i.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 9 Ra-nai, a compact island, seventeen miles in length, and nine in breadth, lies north-west of Tahaurawe, and west of Lahaina, in Maui; from which it is separated by a channel not more than nine or ten miles across. Though the centre of the island is more elevated than Tahaurawe, it is neither so high nor broken as any of the other islands: great part of it is barren, and the island in general suffers much fiom the long droughts which prevail; the ravines and glens, notwithstanding, are filled with the roots of small trees, and to these many of the inhabitants of Mani repair, for the purpose of cutting posts and rafters for their small houses. The island is volcanic, the soil shallow, and by no means fertile; the shores, however, abound with shell fish, and some species of medustc and cuttlefish. The inhabitants are but few, probably not exceeing two thousand. 3llgr,2 a- is a long irregular island, apparently formed by a chain of volcanic mountains, forty miles in length, and not more than seven miles broad; the mountains are nearly equal in elevation to those of Maui, and are broken by numerous deep ravines and watercourses, the sides of which are frequently clothed with verdure, and ornamented with shrubs and trees. The population is greater than that of Ranai, though it does not probably exceed three thousand persons. O-a-hu, the most romantic and fertile of the Sandwich Islands, resembling, in the varied features of its natural scenery, several of the Society Islands, lies nearly north-west of Morokai, from which it is between twenty and thirty miles distant. This beautiful island is about forty-six 10 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. miles long, and twenty-three wide; its appearance from the roads off Honoruru, or Waititi, is remarkably picturesque. A chain of lofty mountains rises near the centre of the eastern part of the island, and, extending perhaps twenty miles, reaches the plain of Eva, which divides it from the distant and elevated mountains that rise in a line parallel with the north-west shore. The plain of hnri6iiu 'exhibits, in a singular manner, the extent and effects of volcanic agency. It is not less than nine or ten miles in length; and, in some parts, two miles from the sea to the foot of the mountains. The whole plain is covered with a rich alluvial soil, frequently two or three feet deep; beneath this, a layer of fine volcanic ashes and cinders extends to the depth of fourteen or sixteen feet; these ashes lie upon a stratum of solid rock, not volcanic, but calcareous, and apparently a kind of sediment deposited by the sea, in which branches of white coral, bones of fish and animals, and several varieties of shells are found. The base of the mountains which bound the plain of the interior, appears to have formed the original line of coast on this side of the island; but probably, in some very remote period, an eruption took place from two broad-based, truncated mountains, called by foreigners, Diamond Hill and Punchbowl Hill, evidently extinguished craters; when the ashes and cinders thrown out, and wafted by the trade winds in a westerly direction, filled up the sea, and formed the present extensive plain; the soil of its surface having been subsequently produced either by the decomposition of lava, or by the mould and decayed CHAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 11 vegetable matter washed down from the mountains during the rainy season of the year. Across this plain, immediately opposite the harbour of Honoruru, lies the valley of Anuanu, leading to a pass in the mountains, called by the natives Ka Pari, "the precipice." The mouth of the valley, which opens immediately behind the town of Honoruru, is a complete garden, carefully kept, by its respective proprietors, in a state of high cultivation, and remarkably productive. The valley rises with a gradual ascent from the shore to the precipice, which is seven or eight miles from the town. After journeying through varied scenery, all exceedingly rich and beautiful, for about this distance, the valley becomes gradually narrower, and the mountains rise more steep on either side. The scenery is romantic and delightful: the bottom of the vailay is gently undulated; a rapid stream takes its serpentine way from one side of the valley to the other, sometimes meandering along with an unruffled surface, and at other times rushing down a fall of several feet, or dashing and foaming among rocks which interrupt its progress. The sides of the hills are clothed with verdure; even the rocks that project from amongst the bushes are ornamented with pendulous or creeping plants of various kinds; and, in several places, beautiful cascades roll their silvery streams down the steep mountain's side into flowing rivulets beneath. The beauty of the scenery around increases, until, at length, after walking some time oh a rising ground, more steep than usual, and through a thicket of hills, the traveller suddenlv emerges into an open space, and, turning round a small 1'2 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. 1 pile of volcanic rocks, the Pari all at once bursts upon him with an almost overwheAming effect. Immen.sc masses of blac 1and ferruginous rock, many hundred feet in nearly perpendicualar heights, are piled up on hoth sides; while, immediately before him, he looks down the fearful steep several hundred feet, and beholds hills and valleys, trees and cottages,,streams and paths, cultivated plantations and untrodden thickets; in short, a varied landscape, many miles in extent, bounded by lofty mountains on the one side, and the wihite-crested waves of the ocean o n the other. From this, howver level the ascent is at first gradual and easy, but, as the highest edge is approached, becomnes more formidable, especially in two plaees, where the volcanic rocks appear to rise perpendicularly, and present an even arid app'arently prqjeeting front, which it seems impossible to surmount. The elevation of the upper ridge, over which the path leads, is from fbir to five hundred feet bov-e the lansd below. Still the native~s not ornly pass and repas witho ut sin h diffiealty hit often ca rry heavy busdens front one side to the, other. Withisis a fbw yarsd of the upper edge, of the pass, unudes ti e I ade of srr~ounding hr hes and trees, two rde an d shapeless stone idols were formerly fixed, one o il aeh s ide of the path., whi h the saivese 1 cile Alma no ha iPari, godo of the prec~ipce." They wese usnaily covered with pieces of white tapa, (native cloths,) and eve~ry r tivc who pas sed by the preeipije, if he intended to dIescend idha a gecu bouglis bcfore tIesee idols eniced them vith a gpziallad of CHAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 13 flowers, or wrapped a piece of tapa round them, to render them propitious to his descent; while all who ascended from the opposite side, made a similar acknowledgment for the supposed protection they had experienced. On this subject, one of the missionaries, writing within recent years, remarks:-"This practice appears universal, for, in our travels among the islands, we have seldom passed any steep or dangerous paths, at the commencement or termination of which we have not seen these images, with heaps of offerings lying before them. Until very recently, it is evident the influence of superstition was strong in the minds of the great mass of the people; for, although the natives who accompanied us on our excursions, either from a conviction of the absurdity of the notions of their countrymen, or from mere wantonness, usually overturned the idols, battered them with stones, or rolled them down the precipice, or passage, which they had been supposed to defend; yet, on passing the same paths, only a very short time afterwards, we have invariably found them replaced, or, if broken, their places supplied by fresh ones. This conduct of our native companions was never the consequence of our directions, and seldom received our approbation; for we were not ambitious to become iconoclasts. Our object was rather to enlighten the minds of the people, to convince them of the absurdity and evil of idolatry, and to lead them to the exercise of a better worship and faith; well assured that if, under the blessing of God, we sueeeeded in this, they themselves would, wTith the adoption of the Christian C 14 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. system, not only remove idolatry, but abolish the observances by which it was upheld." Immediately south of the valley of Anuanu, are situated the town and harbour of Honoruru. The harbour is the best, and indeed the only secure one at all seasons, in the Sandwich Islands, and is more frequented by foreign vessels than any otherx; seldom having less than three or four, and sometimes upwards of thirty lying within it at the saime time. The town has, also, since the number of shipping has increased, become populous. It is one of the largest in the islands, usually containing six or seven thousand inhabitants. It is the frequent residence of the king and principal chiefs, who are much engaged in traffic with foreigners visiting the islands, or residing on shore for purposes of tradee There are twelve or fourteen merchants, principally Americans, who have established warehouses on shore for foreign goods, principally piece goods, hardware, crockery, hats and shoes, naval stores, etc. which they retail to the natives for Spanish dollars, or sandal wood. On the eastern side of the basin is a strong fort, one hundred yards square, mounting sixty gans. It was begun by some Russians, who were, however, expelled, and the fort finished by the natives, from an apprehension that these foreigners were in connexion with the Russian settlements on the northwest coast of America, and were about to take possession of the island. Here also, in the month of April, 1820, an American mission was commenced, which, under God, has been the means of producing a most happy moral and domestic cHAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS, 15 change in the character of many of the people, whose advancement in the arts of civilized life, as well as in Christian knowledge, is truly gratifying to witness. About six miles to the west of Honoruru, and nearly as far from the village of Eva, on the Pearl River, there is a singular natural curiosity-a small circular lake, situated at a short distance from the seashore, so impregnated with salt, that twice in the year the natives take out between two and three hundred barrels of fine, clear, hard, crystalized salt. This lake is not only an interesting natural curiosity, but an important appendage to the island. It belongs to the king, and is not only useful in curing large quantities of fish, but furnishes a valuable article of commerce. The population of Oahu is estimated at about twenty thousand. North-west of Oahu, and distant from it about seventy-five miles, is situated the island of Tauai, which is mountainous, and exceedingly romantic in its appearance, but not so fertile as Oahu, or the greater part of Maui. It is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-three in breadth, and covers a surface of a hundred and fifty square miles. The population probably amounts to nearly ten thousand. The principal settlements are in the neighbourhood of Waimea River, the roads at the entrance of which are the usual resort of vessels touching at Tauai. Near the mouth of the river is a strong fort, in excellent repair, mounting twenty-two guns. It was erected several years since, and is well adapted for defence. This, and the neighbouring island of Nihau, were not invaded by Tamehameha, by 16 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. whom all the other islands of the group were subdued. Taumarii, the late king, however, rendered a tacit acknowledgment of dependence on that ambitious prince, and paid annually a nominal tribute both to him and to his son, the late Rihoriho; and shortly before his death, which took place in 1824, he formally ceded the islands which he had governed to Karaimoku, the regent of the Sandwich Islands, for the king, who was then absent on a visit to Great Britain. The son of the late king and several old warriors, dissatisfied with the conduct of their sovereign, took up arms, to rescue the islands from the dominion of the chiefs of the windward islands; but, being defeated in a battle fought in a valley near Waimea, the island is now under the authority of the young king, Kauikeouli, the successor of Rihoriho, and the present sovereign of the whole of the Sandwich Islands. The inhabitants are, in general, a hardy and industrious race. It is remarkable, that in their language they employ the t in all those words in which the A would be used by the natives of the other islands. Ni'hau, a small island, twenty miles in length, and seven miles wide, politically connected with Tauai, lies in a westerly direction, about fifteen miles distant. The inhabitants are not numerous, and in the general features of their character they resemble those of Tauai. These two islands are celebrated throughout the whole group, for the manufacture of the finely painted or variegated mats, so much admired by foreigners, and which the chiefs in all the islands prefer for the purpose of sleeping 6n to every other kind. CHAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 17 These mats are sometimes very large, measuring eighteen or twenty yards in length, and three or four yards in breadth; yet they are woven by the hand, without any loom or frame, with surprising regularity and exactness. They are made of a fine kind of rush, part of which they stain of a red colour, with vegetable dyes, and form their beautiful patterns by weaving them into the mat at its first fabrication, or working them in after it is finished. The natives of these islands are also distinguished for the cultivation of the yam, which grows very large, both at Tauai and Nihau, and contributes essentially to the support of the inhabitants. As the yam is not cultivated to any extent in the other islands, many ships are induced to visit these, principally for the purpose of procuring a supply of it. It is not only an excellent root, but will keep a long time at sea without deterioration. Taura is another small island belonging to the group, lying in a south-western direction from Tauai; but it is only a barren rock, the resort of vast numbers of aquatic birds, for the purpose of procuring which it is occasionally visited by the natives of the windward islands. Adjacent to the shores of most of the islands, small reefs of white coral, common throughout the Pacific, are occasionally found; but they are not so varied in their kind, so frequently met with, nor so extensive, as in the southern islands. The climate, though warm and debilitating to an European constitution, is et salubrious' c 2 18 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. there is no winter, and the principal variation in the uniformity of the seasons is occasioned by the frequent and heavy rains, which usually fall between December and March, and the prevalence of southerly and variable winds during this season. The tabular account, on the opposite page, taken from a meteorological journal, kept by the American missionaries, will show more fully the state of the weather for a year, from August, 1821, to July, 1822: the thermometer was noted at eight A. M., three P. r., and eight P. M. Rain falls but seldom on the western shores of any of the islands, excepting in the season above mentioned; though showers are frequent on the eastern or windward side, and in the mountains they occur almost daily. The soil is rich in those parts which have long been free from volcanic eruptions; but the general appearance of the country is scarcely so inviting as when first discovered; many parts, then under cultivation, now lying waste. The natives are, in general, rather above the middle stature, well formed, with fine muscular limbs, open countenances, and features frequently resembling those of Europeans. Their gait is graceful, and sometimes stately. The chiefs, in particular, are tall and stout, and their personal appearance is so much superior to that of the common people, that some have imagined them to be a distinct race. This, however, is not the fact; the great care taken of them in childhood, and their better living, have probably occasioned the difference. Their hair is black or brown, - -. I iI I ri7 A z 12 rpr Months. August. September October.. November. December. January, February March. April.... May... June.... July... deg. 88 87 86 82 80 80 77 78 81 81 84 84 2 deg. 74 74 73 71 62 59 61 66 62 72 71 74 deg. 14 13 13 11 18 21 16 12 19 9 13 10 deg. deg. 75 to 85 76 -84 76 - 83 75 -80 70 - 78 68 -76 68 -75 71-75 72 -78 75 -80 76-81 76 - 83 aPdeg. 79 78 78 76 72 70 71 72 73 76 78 78 9 -N. E. N. E. N. E. IN. E. N.& N.E. Variable N. E. N. E, Variable N.E. N. E. N. E. General state of the weather. -- Clear; rain but once Rained on 5 da3s Clear; rain but once Clear; rain but once Clear; rain twice Rain 1 day; 7 others cloudy Rain 4 days; 10 others cloudy Rain 5 days; 8 others cloudy Rain 5 days; 12 others cloudy Rain 4 days; 3 others cloudy Cloudy 6 days Rain 4 days; 7 others cloudy - - I Resul the 1;-14 -4 spl~! It for rear 88 61 27 70 to 80 -75 N.E. Rain on 40 days; generally clear at other times. s --- —------— t ---- I -------------------- 20 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. strong, and frequently curly; their complexion is neither yellow, like the Malays, nor red, like the American Indians, but a kind of olive, and sometimes reddish brown. Their arms and other parts of the body are tatooed; but, except in one of the islands, this is not so common as in many parts of the Southern Sea. Compared with those of other islands, the inhabitants may be termed numerous. They were estimated by their discoverers at four hundred thousand. There is reason to believe this was greatly above the actual population at that time; though traces of deserted villages, and numerous enclosures, formerly cultivated, but now abandoned, are everywhere to be met with. At present it does not exceed a hundred and thirty thousand, or a hundred and fifty thousand, of which eighty-five thousand inhabit the island of Hawaii. The rapid depopulation, which has most certainly taken place within the last fifty years, is to be attributed to the frequent and desolating wars which marked the early part of Tamehameha's reign; the ravages of a pestilence, brought in the first instance by foreign vessels, which has twice, during the above period, swept through the islands; the awful prevalence of infanticide; and the melancholy increase of depravity and vice, particularly of the ruinous habit of spirit drinking. The natural history of the islands, as it regards the animal kingdom, is exceedingly circumscribed. The only quadrupeds originally found inhabiting them, were a small species of hogs, with long heads and small erect ears; dogs, MIAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 21:lizards, and an animal larger than a mouse, but smaller than a rat. There were no beasts of prey, nor any ferocious animals, except the hogs, wIhich were found wild in the mountains. There are now large herds of cattle in Hawaii, and some tame ones in most of the islands, together with flocks of goats, and a few horses and sheep, which have been taken thither at different times, principally from the adjacent continent of America. Horses, cattle, and goats thrive well;, but the climate appears too warm for sheep, unless they are kept on the mountains; which, in consequence of the keenness of the air, are seldom inhabited by the natives. Birds, with the exception of those which are aquatic, and a species of owl that preys upon mice, are seldom seen near the shores. In the mountains they are numerous; and the notes of one kind, whose colour is brown and yellow speckled, are exceedingly sweet, resembling those of the English thrush. Several are remarkably beautiful; among which may be reckoned a small kind of paroquet of a glossy purple; and a species of red, yellow, and green woodpecker, with whosesfeathers the gods were wont to be dressed, and the helmets and handsome cloaks of the chiefs ornamented. But the feathered tribes of Hawaii are not, in general, distinguished by the variety of their plumage, or the melody of their notes. There are wild geese in the mountains, and ducks near the lagoons, or ponds, in the vicinity of the seashore: the domestic fowl was found there by the first discoverers, and, though now seldom used as an article of food, many are raised for the supply of shipping. 22 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. In common with the other islands of the eastern part of the Pacific, they are entirely free from every noxious and poisonous reptile, excepting centipedes, which are neither large nor numerous. Fish are not so abundant on these shores as around many of the other islands; they have, however, several varieties, and the inhabitants procure a tolerable supply. The vegetable productions, though less valuable and abundant than in some of the islands both to the west and the south, are found in no small variety; and the most serviceable are raised with facility. The natives subsist principally on the roots of the arum esculentium, or taro, on the convolvolus batatus, or sweet potatoe, called by them udra, and uhi, or yam. The principal indigenous fruits, are the uru, or breadfruit; the niu, or cocoa nut; the maia, or plaintain; the ohia, a species of eugenia; and the strawberry and raspberry. Oranges, limes, citrons, grapes, pine apples, papaw apples, cucumbers, and water melons, have been introduced, and, with the exception of pine apples, thrive well. French beans, onions, pumpkins, and cabbages, have also been added to their vegetables; and, though not esteemed by the natives, are cultivated to some extent, for the purpose of supplying the shipping. Sugar-cane is indigenous, and grows to a large size, though it is not much cultivated. Large tracts of fertile land lie waste in most of the islands; while sugar-cane, together with cotton, coffee, and other valuable inter-tropical productions, might be easily raised in considerable quantities. This will probably ';HAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 23!be the case when the natives become more indusatrious and civilized. The local situation of the Sandwich Islands is 4important, and highly advantageous for purposes of commerce, etc. On the north are the Russian settlements of Kamtschatka, and the neighbouring coast; to the north-west, the islands of Japan; due west, the Marian Islands, Manilla, in the Philippines, and Canton, in China; and in the east, the coast of California and Mexico. Hence they are so frequently resorted to by vessels navigating the Northern Pacific. The establishment of the independent states of South America has greatly increased their importance, as they lie in the track of vessels passing from thence to China, or Calcutta and other parts of India; and are not only visited by these, but by such as trade for skins, etc. with the natives of the north-west coast of America. The period of the discovery of the Sandwich Islands was, as we have said, the year 1778. Whilst pursuing his third voyage of discovery in the Pacific, Captain Cook, on the 18th of January, in that year, first descried the islands. In honour of the Earl of Sandwich, then first lord of the Admiralty, and patron of the undertaking in which he was embarked, the captain bestowed on the group the name which they now bear. The following is our navigator's own account of the circumstances and events of his first visit to them. 'On Monday, the 19th of January, the ships approached an island, which was found to be named Atooi, (Tauai,) and some natives coming off in canoes, our people were agreeably surprised 24 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. to find that their language was, with very little variation, that of Otaheite. They readily exchanged fish, potatoes, and pigs, for nails. It is a remarkable fact, and very greatly in their favour, that they cared not for beads, but set a great value on iron, which they asked for by the name of toi. At the same time, their great astonishment at the sight of the ships, and the things on board, was a proof that no European had visited them before. Some of them repeated a long prayer before coming on board, aid were at first afraid of giving offence; but afterwards they attempted to seize every thing they came near, and one man made off with the butcher's cleaver, and gained the shore with his prize. At one place, where Lieutenant Williamson, who had been sent out with three armed boats, attempted to land, the natives crowded upon him, attempting to seize oars, muskets, and whatever else they could reach. It is to be regretted, that in attempting to repel this violence, the natives were fired on, and one man unfortunately killed." From the following account of the captain's disembarkation, it will be evident that the natives regarded him at first as a being more than mortal. C On the first landing of the captain, the whole of the assembled natives fell upon their faces before him, and continued to lie prostrate until he made signs for them to rise; when they presented to him a number of young pigs and plantain leaves, with much ceremony and long prayers. A. friendly trade for hogs and potatoes was then established, and the watering party filled their casks at a pool without molestation. On a iAP. I.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 25 subsequent day, the captain, in company with!lessrs. Anderson and Webber, enjoyed a ram| into the interior, when they had an opportu4'n ity of observing many of the customs and superstitions of the natives: the graves of some of he native chiefs were, on this occasion, pointed it to them, and in every instance the square enlosure which contained the sepulchre, enclosed i;also the grave of a human victim. The party!discovered also, with deep regret, that cannibal-:ism was not unknown here: a wooden knife or:!Siaw, armed with shark's teeth, and used for cut-:iing up dead bodies, was amongst the articles?'t|hey purchased; the natives acknowledging the uise that was made of it, and affirming that human flesh was savoury eating." |': An event so important and surprising as the!jarrival of the ships and the foreigners, the:i:colour, dress, arms, language, manners, etc. of the latter, so powerfully affected the minds of the natives, that the ordinary avocations of life were:ifor a while suspended. The news of such an event rapidly spread through the islands, and i multitudes flocked from every quarter to see the return of Orono, or the motus, (islands,) as they:called the ships. The whole island was laid under requisition to supply their wants, or coni: tribute to their satisfaction; hence the immense; quantities of provisions presented, the dances, etc. with which they were entertained. The effect produced upon the minds of the visitors, by iwhat they saw during their transient stay among t:the islands, heightened as it was by the attrac-:tions of novelty, and the complacent feelings of D 26 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. I. discoverers, was highly favourable. The almost primitive simplicity, natural vivacity, and fascinating manners of a people, who had existed for ages unknown to the rest of the world, the mildness and salubrity of their climate, the spontaneous abundance of delicious fruits, and the varied and delightful appearance of the scenery were so enchanting, that many began to imagine they had discovered a sort of elysium, where the inhabitants, free from the toil and care, the want and disappointment, which mar the happiness of civilized communities, spent their lives in unrestrained enjoyment. Far different were the impressions produced on the minds of the missionaries, after they had resided many years on the island. They then could dispassionately testify, that, after having acquired the language of the people, observed their domestic economy, and become acquainted with the nature of their government, and their principal civil and religious usages, they were led to conclusions far less flattering to philosophic speculation; conclusions in painful accordance with the humbling declarations of Divine revelation. We shall soon see that events occurred not long subsequent to those above narrated, which tended materially to alter the estimate of the condition of the islanders, formed even by the first visitors themselves. We allude to the well known catastrophe which afterwards befell them, in the loss of their enterprising commander, in the island of Hawaii, and which has invested that island with so much of melancholy interest. iCHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 27 CHAPTER II. Arrival of British ships in Kearakekua Bay-Im. pressions produced by the event on the minds of Captain Cook and his companions-First intercourse with the natives-Captain Cook declared to be one of their gods by a priest- Captain Cook arrayed in the sacred cloth, and a sacrifice offered to him on board his ship- The natives prostrate themselves before him as he is conducted to the temple on shore —Captain Cook seated amidst the idols of Hawaii-A sacrifice and prayer offered by the heathen priest-A Christian sabbath- The encampment on shore rendered sacred, or prohibited -Arrival of the king of the island-His visits to the ships-Presents to the captain- Ceremonies at the interment of one of the seamen-Abundant supply of provisions furnished by the natives-Departure of the ships- Their return in consequence of damage in a storm- Thefts committed by the natives-Attempt of Captain Cook to convey the king and queen on board-A chief killed by one of the ship's officers-Attack upon the party on shore -Death of Captain Cook-Manner of disposing of his body-Feelings of the natives-Divine honours paid to the remains of Captain Cook-Present state of the inhabitants of Kearakekua BaySubsequent intercourse between the natives and foreigners. IT was on Wednesday, January 6, 1779, that Captain Cook, after exploring the north-west coast of America, returned to pay his second visit to the Sandwich Islands. When both his ships, the Discovery and the Resolution, had been supplied with provisions from the natives in their canoes, they anchored in a bay named 28 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. Kearakekua, where they were visited by not fewer than a thousand canoes, most of them crowded with people, well laden with hogs, fruits, and roots. Into this bay the ships were taken to refit; and whilst they were at anchor there, Captain Cook appears to have felt great interest in surveying the novel assemblage before him. 4 I had nowhere," he says, in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place; for, besides those who had come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fishes. We could not but be struck with the singularity of the scene; and, perhaps, there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most important which had hitherto been made by Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean." Such are the words with which this enterprising man closed his interesting journal; words that remain an indelible monument of the fallacy of all trust, which reposes merely on the emotions and appearances of a moment. There were not, indeed, wanting circumstances, even at this early period of the intercourse of the ships with the natives, which must have materially modified the feelings of satisfaction with which the latter were regarded. One of these was the insatiable thirst for plunder, which CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 29: induced the people to crowd around the ships, so::as to retard the transaction of necessary business. This was partially restrained by the interference of some chiefs who attached themselves to Captain Cook, and, at his request, soon cleared the " vessel of all troublesome intruders, by driving some into their canoes, and forcing others into the sea. The chiefs, however, were not altogether proof against temptation themselves; and Koa, in particular, a little old chief, would sometimes introduce common persons as of the same rank, with a view to get possession of presents made to them. Koa, who was a priest as well as a warrior, seems to have been the first who honoured Captain Cook with a kind of divine adoration. When he was conducted into the cabin of the Resolution, he approached the captain with great veneration, threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, the sacred cloth in which the idols of this country were arrayed; then stepping back a few paces, he made an offering of a small pig, which he held in his hand, while he uttered a prayer of considerable length. After dinner, when Captain Cook, with Messrs. King and Bailey, accompanied Koa on shore, four men, carrying wands tipped with dog's hair, sacred wands such as were used in tabuing, marched before him, making loud proclamation respecting Orono; upon which the whole crowd on the shore retired, except a few, who fell prostrate on the ground. The procession went on, as directed by Koa, to a large moral, on the south side of a village called Kaka, which stood at the head D2 30 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. of the bay. Here was a heiau, or temple, a solid pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height, with a flat paved top surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the skulls of the victims sacrificed on the death of chiefs. In the adjacent area were some buildings, and on one side were five poles supporting an irregular scaffold. On arriving at the temple, the party were led towards two large wooden images, to which Captain Cook was presented by a tall young man with a long beard, named Kaireekeera, who, along with Koa, chanted a hymn. They were then led towards the five poles, at the foot of which were twelve images, ranged in a semicircle, with a whatta, or altar, in the middle, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of fruits and roots. Koa, having placed the captain close to the whatta, took down the hog, and held it towards him; then making a long speech, or prayer, he let it fall to the ground, and led him to the scaffold, which, with some difficulty, they mounted together. And now approached, in solemn procession, ten men, carrying a live hog and a large piece of red cloth; on drawing near they fell prostrate, and Kaireekeera meeting them, received first the cloth, and then the hog; the former being handed to Koa, was wrapped round the captain, while the latter was offered before him. The two priests now began to chant, sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately; and, after this service had continued for some time, Koa let the hog drop, when he and the captain descended from the scaffold. He then led him to the range ECHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 31 of images, at which he snapped his fingers, with some sneering words, as he passed; till, reaching the central figure, which was covered with red cloth, he prostrated himself, and kissed it; after which the captain, at his desire, did the same. From thence he led his guest to a sunken area in the morai, where he seated him between two wooden idols, Koa supporting his right hand, while Lieutenant King supported his left. At this time a second procession of natives arrived, with a baked hog and some fruits; and Kaireekeera, heading the procession, presented the pig before Captain Cook, with solemn chanting, to which the rest made responses, closing with the name Orono. The natives then sat down fronting the captain and his supporters, and while some cut up the baked hog and prepared the vegetables, others engaged in brewing ava: and when the ava had been handed round and tasted, morsels of the flesh were also distributed. A chief named Parea fed Mr. King, and Koa tried to feed Captain Cook; but the latter, remembering the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel. This closed the ceremony; and the captain, after distributing amongst the natives some trifling presents, which pleased them much, returned on board, attended to the beach by the men with wands, and honoured by the prostrations of all whom he met. It is easy to see, from this narrative, that the natives ranked the navigatori among their gods; regarding him as the deity whom they styled Orono, or Rono. This Orono had, according to their tradition, governed Hawaii, or 32 MIESSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. an extensive district in it, during what may, in its chronology, be called the fabulous age. Having on some account become offended with his wife, and murdered her, he was afterwards visited with such poignant remorse for the act, as to induce a state of mental derangement. In this state he travelled through all the islands, boxing and wrestling with every one he met. He subsequently set sail in a singularly shaped canoe for Tahiti, or a foreign country. After his departure he was deified by his countrymen, and annual games of wrestling and boxing were instituted to his honour. As soon as Captain Cook arrived, it was supposed, and reported, that the god Rono was returned; the priests clothed him with the sacred cloth worn only by the gods, conducted him to their temples, sacrificed animals to propitiate his favour, and hence the people prostrated themselves before him as he walked through the villages. It has been well remarked, by the biographer of Captain Cook, that "it is deeply to be regretted our illustrious countryman should, in this instance, have allowed his curiosity to overcome his sense of duty. However eager he might have been to become acquainted with the religious rites of this people, he ought not to have allowed them to offer their idolatrous, though ignorant worship to him. As a Christian, he was bound both to refuse adoration to their gods, and to reject it when offered to himself. He.acted honourably at Tahiti, when he condemned the human sacrifice, which his curiosity induced him to witness and now, when he saw plainly that CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 33 these wretched idolators mistook him for a god, he ought to have remembered the conduct of Paul and Barnabas at Lystra, on a similar occasion, and have shuddered at the idea of accepting divine homage. Even if the strength of his curiosity might be pleaded in extenuation of his allowing this idolatry once, no such plea can be advanced to excuse his permitting its repetition, which took place a few days after at the house or temple of Orono, with equal, if not greater solemnity; not to speak of the more common tokens of adoration, almost daily offered him by the priests or the people. It might possibly be thought good policy, to encourage this veneration of his person as a means of ensuring his own safety and comfort, and that of his men; but if such was his object, the last page of his history proves how completely he miscalculated. On the 17th of January, he first accepted adoration and sacrifice, and on that day four weeks, he fell a sacrifice himself, and was torn to pieces; while Koa, Parea, and other natives, who were chief actors in the idolatrous scenes, bore a principal part in the bloody tragedy that followed." It remains to be noticed, as a further subject of regret, that the day alluded to was the sabbath, when the officers and crew, instead of participating in the idolatries of the ignorant and superstitious heathen, would, it might be supposed, have been employed in grateful worship of the true and living God. The delusion of the natives, in mistaking Captain Cook for their god Orono, produced in the first instance advantages to the British. They O 34 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. EII were allowed to select a field for erecting their observatory and tents; and, to prevent intruders from disturbing them, the field was tabued, or rendered sacred, by having sacred wands fixed around the wall that enclosed it. After this ceremony, no canoes durst land at the spot, no native would enter the holy ground without special invitation, and no females could be prevailed upon to approach. When persons were urged to entice the latter, they invariably replied, that the Atua and the king would kill them if they entered. Provisions of every kind, and in abundance, were, however, daily brought for their subsistence; while canoes, also loaded with provisions, were sent as punctually to the ships. This was done by direction of Kau, the venerable high priest, grandfather to Kaireekeera; and nothing was asked or expected in return, it being considered as the payment of a sacred tribute. The priests, indeed, continued warm friends of the British during their stay; and, with the exception of old Koa, took no part in pilfering their property. While the crews of the vessels under the command of Captain Cook were busily employed in efhecting necessary repairs, and preparing provisions for their protracted voyage, the navigator received a visit from King Teraiobu, who had, till now, been from home. On his arrival, the whole bay was tabued for more than two days; no canoe visited the ships but by special licence, and no female was to be seen. On Monday, the 25th, the king, with his wife and children, paid a private visit to the ships, and was found to be HAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 35:the same aged chief, who, when the Resolution first touched at Maui, had gone on board with some of his family and attendants; on which occasion the English were not aware of his rank. On Tuesday, the 26th, he came off to the ships in great state; he and his chiefs dressed in their rich feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers. The royal party occupied a large canoe, which was followed by a second, containing Kau and the other priests, with their gigantic and hideous idols displayed on red cloth; and after this came a third canoe, filled with hogs and vegetables. The priests sung hymns with great solemnity, while the canoes paddled round the ships; but, instead of going on board, the royal and sacerdotal companies made for the shore, and landed opposite the tents, where Lieutenant King and the guards were ready to receive them. Captain Cook arrived presently, having followed them in the pinnace; and when the royal party were seated in the telt, the king rose up, and, in a very graceful manner, threw his own cloak over the captain's shoulders, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into his hand. He spread also at his feet five or six other valuable cloaks, and exchanged names with him; at the same time four large hogs, and a quantity of fruits, were brought by the attendants. After this, a procession of priests advanced, followed by a long train of men, leading hogs and carrying vegetables. Kau, the chief priest, who headed the proeession, and had been from home with the king, was now, 36 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. Ir. for the first time, introduced to Captain Cook. He brought a piece of red cloth, and after wrapping it round his shoulders offered a small pig in the usual form. Kau being then seated next the king, Kaireekeera and the other priests began chanting, while Kau and the chiefs joined in the responses. The king and several of his retinue then went on board with the captain, who arrayed his majesty in a linen shirt, and girt his own hanger round him. When the king went on shore, the tabu was removed at the captain's request; at least so far as to permit the natives to trade with the ships. The behaviour of the natives continuing friendly and inoffensive, the gentlemen of both ships carried their confidence so far, that they took frequent excursions into the country, and would occasionally remain all night. At these times the boys and girls, at the different villages, amused them with songs and dances, and all whom "they met were ready to serve them. On one oceasion, when a large party from both ships went several miles into the country, to examine its productions, Kau sent provisions after them, and gave orders to the inhabitants to assist them. The bounty of Teraiobu, also, continued; and when Captain Clerke, who had been in ill health, visited him for the first time, he received him very honourably, and gave him thirty large hogs, with a vast quantity of fruits and roots. On the 20th, the natives entertained the crews of the ships with a boxing match, and other athletic exercises, in which however they were much inferior to the Friendly islanders; they HAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 37 iwere repeated at different times. Captain Cook, i his turn, entertained them with a display of Iireworks; at which they were greatly astonished. 'mongst other proofs of the good undertanding kept up between the natives and the;English, it is related that, on the death of a gunner, who had long stood high in the captain's esteem, the king desired he might be buried in the marai. The funeral service was attended by.,;Kau and others, in solemn silence; when the?grave was filling up, they threw in a dead pig,: with some cocoa nuts and plantains; and for.'three nights following attended at the grave, sa 'rificing hogs, and chanting hymns and prayers, ':'which continued until daybreak. As the resources of the country were now be-:;:ginning to be drained, by the vast supplies required for the ships, the natives made frequent:inquiries about the time of their departure. They - fancied that the English people had come from a country where provisions had failed, for the pur-::pose of satisfying their hunger; and gave broad hints that they had now got pretty well filled;:t stroking the sides of the sailors, whose looks were much improved during the stay, and tell-:ing them, that if they would return next season, they should then be feasted liberally. The king's:bounty, however, was not exhausted; for having summoned his people to bring in their tribute, to enable him to give a parting offering to Orono, a public assembly was held, on Wednesday, February 3rd, when the ships were about to sail; and large quantities of hogs, vegetables, 1E 38 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. and cloth, were brought before the king; together with a great assortment of red and yellow feathers; and the hatchets and iron-ware which had been obtained from the British. Teraiobu selected about a third part of the feathers and iron-ware for himself, with a few pieces of cloth, and then presented the rest of the cloth, with all the hogs and vegetables, to Captain Cook and Lieutenant King; who were astonished at the magnitude of the present, as it far exceeded even what they had received at the Friendly Isles. Mr. King was supposed to be the captain's son; and both Teraiobu and Kau, who were warmly attached to him, begged that he might remain and live with them. Early on the following morning the ships sailed out of the bay. Many natives accompanied them in canoes, in their progress northward; and the king, as a last proof of regard for Captain Cook, sent after him a large present of hogs and vegetables. Koa, who had changed his name to Britannee, accompanied the captain to a large bay called Tawaihai. When the ships were off the bay, on the 6th, a storm arose, which continued for nearlythe whole of three days; to the imminent peril of the natives sailing near them, some of whom were saved by the humane exertions of the seamen. In this storm the foremast of the Resolution gave way, which made it necessary to go into some harbour to repair it; and the adjacent bay, affording no safe anchorage, while it remained uncertain whether a safe and good harbour could be found in the island to leeward, CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 39 Captain Cook determined on returning to Kearakekua, little thinking to what fatal result this decision would lead. On returning to the place of their former anchorage, the vessels were repaired, and the tents and observatory were again set up; the priests having again tabued the spot, in order to prevent interruption. Teraiobu paid a friendly visit to Captain Cook on the 12th; and his nephew Maihamaiha, or Tamehameha, had previously visited Captain Cook, and spent a night with his attendants on board the Discovery; but some of the chiefs seemed less friendly than before. Parea interfered unkindly in a bargain that was making for a hog; and, on the 13th, several chiefs and other natives annoyed the watering party bf the Discovery, and showed some appearances of hostility; on which directions were given to the guard to load with ball. The natives now began to reassemble in the bay, and crowded the ships, watching for opportunities to pilfer. One of them, being detected stealing the armourer's tongs, from the forge on board the Discovery, was flogged, and sent out of the ship; yet, in the afternoon, another snatched the tongs and a chisel, with which he jumped overboard, and, swimming to a canoe, was paddled on shore. Parea, who was then on board the Discovery, hastened after him to recover the stolen goods. The thief, however, abandoning his plunder, fled into the country; and when the master and a midshipman, who had been despatched after him in the small cutter, approached the shore, 40 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. IIT they met some natives in a canoe, bringing the articles back. The Resolution's pinnace, with five men, joining them, the master thought his force sufficient to insist on having the thief surrendered, or the canoe which took him on shore. The thief being out of reach, the master was proceeding accordingly to seize the canoe, which was hauled up on the beach, when Parea appeared, and claimed it as his property. Finding that his claim was disregarded, he seized the officer, and held him by the hair, on which one of the sailors struck him with an oar; the chief, quitting the master, then snatched the oar, and broke it in two across his knee; and presently after the multitude, resenting the insult offered to their chief, attacked the British with stones. The latter, after a short resistance, were obliged to abandon the pinnace, and make their escape; the men swimming to the small cutter, the two officers to a rock near the shore. The natives would have followed, and killed them; but Parea interfered, and checked their violence. The officers begged him to remain until they got their boats off; but he refused, and left them. The master was then proceeding towards the tent for help; but Parea meeting him, constrained him to return; and the chief, finding the mob plundering the pinnace, beginning to pull it to pieces, and insulting the midshipman who remained by it, again dispersed them; and, having thus saved the boat, desired the gentlemen to return on board, bringing them some of the oars which the crowd had seized. They were glad to escape in safety; and Parea CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 41 soon overtook them in his canoe, and eagerly asked if Orono would kill him for what had happened. Being assured to the contrary, he joined noses, in token of reconciliation, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa, or Kaavaroa, on the north-west side of the bay. During the above proceedings, Captain Cook, having observed that some muskets were fired after a man from the Discovery, and supposing that he had taken something of consequence, had landed with Lieutenant King and a marine, and pursued the thief, ineffectually, a distance of two miles. When he returned, and was informed of what had passed, he felt much uneasiness; and observed, on going aboard, " I am afraid these people will oblige me to use some violent measures, for they must not be left to imagine they have gained an advantage over us." He immediately ordered all the natives to be turned out of the ships. Lieutenant King posted a double guard at the observatory, where a few natives were seen to approach during the night; but they retired when they found themselves observed. Mournful sounds from the adjacent villages were heard by the guards, and supposed to be the lamentations of women. Notwithstanding the vigilance of the ship's crew, it was found, in the morning of the 14th, that the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy of one of the anchors, had been stolen by the natives; a theft which they committed, as was afterwards ascertained, at the instigation of Parea. When apprized of the robbery, Captain Cook resolved, according to his E2 42 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CRAP. II, usual plan, to endeavour to get the king on board, with a view to ensure the restoration of the cutter; and, at the same time, gave orders that none of the canoes in the bay should be allowed to depart, that he might make reprisals on them if necessary. About seven o'clock, having sent Lieutenant King to take charge of the party at the tents, and try to quiet the minds of the natives there, he left the ship, with Lieutenant Philips and nine marines, in the pinnace; the crew of which were also armed, under the command of Mr. Roberts. Foreseeing that danger might arise, he took the precaution to order Lieutenant Williamson, who commanded in the launch, to leave the station which he occupied at the northwest point of the bay, and come to support the pinnace. On his landing at Kaavaroa with the marines, the captain was received with the customary honours, the natives prostrating themselves before him. He wag joined by Kaneena, his brother Kuourua, and other chiefs, who kept the crowd in order, and inquired if he wanted hogs, or other provisions. The king's sons, two boys, who had often been his guests in the Resolution, also joined him. When he said that he wanted Teraiobu, he was conducted to his house; and the king, having been awakened from his sleep, came forth to meet him, and readily accepted his invitation to go on board. He accordingly went with the captain towards the water side, and his boys got to the pinnace, into which the youngest, Keoua, presently entered; but, when the king was within about ',; CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 43 thirty yards of the water, his people, conscious of what had been done, crowded around to detain him. His wife, Kanona, besought him with tears not to go on board, and two chiefs taking hold of him, made him sit down. The captain, unwilling to give up his point, urged him to proceed; but the natives, alarmed at the firing of guns and musketry in the bay, by those who were detaining the canoes, crowed more closely around; and Lieutenant Philips, finding his men pressed closely together in the crowd, led them out, with the captain's consent, the natives opening a passage for them, and drew them up in a line along the rocks, close to the water's edge. The king, who was seated beside a double canoe, which had been hauled up, was again urged to rise, and accompany his friend on board; but the chiefs insisted on his staying; upon which the captain relinquished the attempt, observing to Mr. Philips, that he could not take the king on board by force, without the risk of killing a number of the inhabitants. Hitherto the person of the navigator appeared to be in no danger; but when he was quitting Teraiobu, and walking towards the boats, a serious tumult arose amongst the crowd. A man, arriving in great haste from the other side of the bay, exclaimed, "It is war!" and informed the people that Kareemu, a chief, had been shot by one of the Discovery's boats. Upon this, the arming of the natives, which had previously begun, became general, the women and children were sent off and the men proceeded to acts of violence and hostility. The captain had been 44 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. annoyed by an old priest, who repeatedly offered him a cocoa-nut, with loud singing and noise: and now old Koa approached with a pahoa, or dagger, under his cloak. Mr. Philips proposed to shoot him, but the captain forbidding it, he only struck him with his piece, and made him retire. A man now seized the sergeant's musket, when a blow from the lieutenant made him quit his hold. Another native, throwing a stone at the captain, the latter, who carried a piece with two barrels, fired one at him, loaded with small shot. The fellow, wearing a thick mat, was scarcely hurt, and brandished his spear to dart it at Captain Cook, who, being still unwilling to take his life, knocked him down with his piece, instead of firing with ball. At this time Mr. Roberts, not aware of the impending danger, suffered Keoua to be put on shore; whereas, the detention of the prince might have operated powerfully in restraining the hostility of the islanders. And now, a man, behind a double canoe, being seen in the act of darting his spear at the captain, the latter fired his other barrel, loaded with ball, and killed another who was active in the tumult, while the man who had aimed at him was presently shot by the sergeant. Upon this the natives gave back a little; but, being pushed on by those behind, returned to the charge, and poured a volley of stones amongst the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it with a discharge of musketry, while the seamen in the boats began also to fire. At this Captain Cook expressed his astonishment, and, waving his hand, called to 4 CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 4:5 the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. His voice, on account of the noise and confusion, was indistinctly heard; and while the pinnace came close in, Lieutenant Williamson, with the men in the launch, through some strange mistake or neglect, moved farther off, at the very moment when their support might have saved their brave commander and the marines. The natives now rushed on with dreadful yells, and four of the marines, who had no time to reload, fell a sacrifice to their fury; four others were wounded, including Lieutenant Philips, who saved his life by shooting his antagonist, and then, with the surviving marines, got into the pinnace. The captain, now left alone on the rock, was making for the pinnace, when a chief, named Karimano, followed him, and, after some hesitation, struck him on the back of the head wjih a large club, and then precipitately retreated. Stunned by the blow, the captain staggered a few paces, fell on his hand and one knee, and then dropped his musket. As he was rising, a native, called Nooah, stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger, and he fell into the sea, which, at that spot, was about kneedeep. Here the natives, crowding upon him, endeavoured to keep him under; but, struggling powerfully with them, he got his head up, and cast a look towards the pinnace, which was only five or six yards off, yet was unable to save him. The natives again pressed him down in deeper water; he was able, however, to get his head up once more, and, turning to the rock, tried to cling to it, when another blow with a 46 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. club at once deprived him of life. They then dragged his senseless body upon the rocks, and, snatching the dagger from each other's hands, showed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. This fatal event occurred about eight o'clock in the morning, only one hour after he had landed. "Such," observes his biographer, "was the lamentable end of the most illustrious of navigators. It is painful to think, that he, who had done so much to preserve the lives and increase the comforts of the islanders of the Pacific, should thus have fallen by their hands; and that some of the improved implements with which he furnished them, should have been employed in destroying him. Keneena had purchased a large dagger for a hog, only the day before; and this dagger was probably used in the bloody tragedy. It is still more melancholy to reflect, that a commander, who had made it his constant study to promote the welfare of his officers and crew, should have been deserted by some of them in the hour of peril, and left to perish before their eyes by the hands of barbarians, when a vigorous effort on their part might, perhaps, have saved him. Even the recovery of his lifeless body was an object worth contending for; and five young midshipmen, who arrived in a small boat at the close of the fatal business, saw the beach almost entirely deserted by the natives, who had been dispersed by the fire of the boats, and some shots from the Resolution, so that the body might have been recovered without much difficulty; yet the lieutenant returned on board without making CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 47 the attempt. Whether the late order for substituting beer for spirits, had somewhat alienated the affections of the seamen from their otherwise beloved captain; or, whether they were seized with a temporary panic, confusion, or infatuation, amidst scenes so appalling, the fatal result will ever be remembered with the most poignant grief." When the first paroxysms of the natives' rage had subsided, their feelings immediately became those of lamentation for the captain's end. They paid his remains all those honours which they were accustomed to show to their deceased chiefs. His body was taken from the beach, and deposited in a cave above the village, from whence it was removed to an adjacent height, and there cut in pieces, and the flesh, after being separated from the bones, burnt. The bones were preserved as the objects of veneration. This kind of funeral, however barbarous in our view, was regarded in the islands as the most honourable. The spot where the body was burnt, is a small inclosure, about fifteen feet square, with a kind of raised hearth in the midst, where fragments of charcoal still remain. It will naturally be supposed, that the fatal result of the sudden dispute, in which the captain had become embroiled with the natives, must have somewhat shaken their opinion of his divinity. When, in the attack made upon him, they saw his blood running, and heard his groans, they said, "No, this is not Rono." Some, however, after his death, still supposed him to be Rono, and expected he would appear again. Hence it 48 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. was, that some of his bones, the ribs and breastbone, were considered sacred as part of Rono, and deposited in a leiau (temple) dedicated to Rono, on the opposite side of the island. Religious homage was there paid to them, and from thence they were annually carried in procession to several other temples, or borne by the priests round the island, to collect the offerings of the people for the support of the god Rono. The bones were preserved in a small basket of wicker-work, completely covered over with red feathers; which, in those days, were considered to be the most valuable articles the natives possessed. There are a number of persons at Kaavaroa, and other places in the islands, who either were present themselves at the unhappy dispute which terminated the valuable life of Captain Cook, or who, from their connexion with those who were, are well acquainted with the particulars of that event. With many of these the missionaries have frequently conversed; and though their narratives diffir in a few smaller points, they all agree in the main facts with the account published by Captain King, his successor. The foreigner," say they, 'was not to blame; for, in the first instance, our people stole his boat, and he, in order to recover it, designed to take our king on board his ship, and detain him there till it should be restored. Kapena Kuke' and Teraiobu, our king, were walking together towards the shore, when our people, conscious of what had been done, thronged round e Captain Cook's name is thus pronounced by the. natives, 'CHAP. II.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 49 the king, and objected to his going any further. His wife also joined her entreaties that he would; not go on board the ships. While he was hesi-: tating, a man came running from the other side of the bay, entered the crowd almost breathless, and exclaimed, It is war; the foreigners have commenced hostilities, have fired on a canoe, and killed a chief.' This enraged some of our people, and alarmed the chiefs, as they feared Captain Cook would kill the king. The people armed themselves with stones, clubs, and spears. All the chiefs did the same. The king sat down. The captain seemed agitated, and was walking towards his boat, when one of our men attacked him with a spear: he turned, and, with his double-barrelled gun, shot the man who struck him. Some of our people then threw stones at him, which being seen by his men, they fired upon us. Captain Cook then endeavoured to stop his men from firing, but could not, from the noise and tumult. He was turning again to speak to us, when he was stabbed in the back with a pahoa; a spear was at the same time driven through his body; he fell into the water, and spoke no more. After he was dead, we all wailed. His bones were separated, the flesh was scraped off and burnt, as was the practice with regard to our own chiefs when they died. We thought he was the god Rono, worshipped him as such, and, after his death, reverenced his bones." Many of the chiefs frequently express the sorrow they feel whenever they think of the captain; and even the common people usually speak v 50 MISSIONARY RECORDS. [CHAP. II. of these facts with apparent regret. Yet they exonerate the king Teraiobu from all blame, as nothing was done by his orders. Karaimoku, and several other chiefs, were once with one ofthe missionaries, looking over the plates in the folio edition of Cook's Voyages: they were greatly affected by the print which represents his death, and inquired the names of those who were slain on that occasion. Karaimoku more than once wiped the tears from his eyes, while conversing on the topic: he said, he recollected Captain Cook's visit, though he was at Maui at the time of his death. More than once, when conversing with the missionaries on the length of time the mission had been established in the Society Islands, others have said, '; Why did you not come here sooner? Was it because we killed Captain Cook?" The natives have sometimes been asked, what inducement they had to steal the boat, when they possessed so many canoes of their own. They have generally answered, that they did not take it to transport themselves from one island to another, for their own canoes were more convenient, and they knew better how to manage them; but because they saw it was not sewed together, but fastened with nails. These they wanted, therefore they stole the boat, and broke it to pieces the next day, converting the nails thus obtained into fish-hooks. There is every reason to believe that this was their principal, if not only object in committing the depredation. They prize nails very highly; and, though it is not known that they ever went so