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W i A. '.I.. V.ls '. THE THREE GREAT NAVAL HEROES OF THE WAR WITH SPAIN Rdr0 q X00 kXge 1A eXeIwy w inkI Spi Pfle l atWniR Ai t WI r o,IIIILII eaplureof Set V ani 'I;': I: r x~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~,.8.S. i~..... t~ ~~. r is:e ~ * rr | ~~~~plannledl tlle capture. of Cervera's, fleet: ait Sanftiago- alll Retlar-Admi3ral Y~~~~~~~W S. scllev~ vllo superbly exectted that plan. MEETING OF MILES AND SHAFTER AT SAN JUAN HILL G neral Shafter's telegranis to Washington after the first few da fihtin efr ati plailv that he waas o tver the t;ati al iles sted to u ad his resene was af tret service tSt t nttr contc ncetlance I Attention Patron: This volume is too fragile for any future repair. Please handle with great care. UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN LIBRARY - CONSERVATION & BOOK REPAIR l OUR NEW POSSESSIONS.....FOUR BOOKS IN ONE.... A GRAPHI(C' ACCOUNTI, I)ESCRIPITIVE AND IHISTORICAL, OF TlE TROPIC ISLANDS OF TIE SEA WHICHl HAVE FALLEN UN)ER OUR SWAY, TIIEIR CITIES, PEOPLES ANI) 0CM1MERCE, NATURAL RESOUI(RES AN) TlE OPPORTUNITIES THEY OFFER TO AMERICANS. Book I.-The Philippine Islands. Book II. —Puerto Ro. Book III.-Cuba. Book IV.-The Hawaiian Islands. SPECIAL CAIIl'TERS ON TROPICAI, CII,TIVAT[ON, SUfAR, CO)FFEE, ETC. THE LADRONES, THE CAROLINES, AND OTHER ISLAND iROUPS OF THE PACIFIC, aND THEIR COMMERCIAL RELATIONS. TRUMBULL WHITE, THE WELL KNOWN AUtIHOR,. HIST(RIAN, WAR (CORRESPONDENT AND TRAVELER-AUTHIOR OF "OURI WAR WITH SPAIN FOR CUBA'S FREEDIOM," ETC. ETC. ELABORATELY ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOORAPHS AND DRAWINOS FROM ALL, THE COUNTRIES INCLUDED IN THE WORK. NATI)NAL EI)I TCATIONAI, UNI()N, Ct('ICAGO(), [I,I, - - -- ~ I ~ ~- I- - - - ' ' — - I. Cotyrighlteld Iby TRUMBUITL \V IT'1' i 98 All Amittrtans Bh*o Gio ~Atonccting in Our:Acrw wossesstons and o Tfxe wlopEt Who ArCe 1hhicvc Refeto Sghm. I ,to7, A-"" /- /3 -193 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page INTRODUCTION......................................... 15 BOOK I. —THE PHILIPPINES. CHAPTER I. How THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND.......................... 33 CHAPTER II. THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.................... 46 CHAPTER III. AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION............................... 55 CHAPTER IV. DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY....................... 60 CHAPTER V. GENERAL MERRITT AND THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA.... 83 CHAPTER VI. COM[PLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS.......................... 106 CHAPTER VII. AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA............32 ".., ' CHAPTER VIII. A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO......................... I56 CHAPTER IX. MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON.............................. 65 CHAPTER X. ILOILO AND THE VISAYAN ARCHIPELAGO........................ 88 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS......................... 205 CHAPTER XII. MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS...................... 211 CHAPTER XIII. THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO...................................... 222 CHAPTER XIV. THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES............................ 231 CHAPTER XV. FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES......................... 242 CHAPTER XVI. MINERAL WEALTH OF THE PHILIPPINES......................... 249 CHAPTER XVII. NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS......................... 257 CHAPTER XVIII. THE COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES............... 263 CHAPTER XIX. THE LADRONES AND OUR OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS..A........ 271 CHAPTER XX. WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES............................ 291 BOOK II.-PUERTO RICO. "THE HEALTHIEST OF TIHE ANTILLES"............................ 309 CHAPTER XXI. PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY...................................... 314 CHAPTER XXII. THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO...................... 324 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIII. STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR................................... 34I CHAPTER XXIV. PUERTO Rico, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE......................... 359 CHAPTER XXV. TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO...................................... 372 CHAPTER XXVI. THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO.......................... 392 CHAPTER XXVII. LITERATURE, TIE DRAMA AND THE HOTELS....................... 401 CHAPTER XXVIII. TIHE AGRICULTURE AND PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO................. 414 CHAPTER XXIX. CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO............................. 421 CHAPTER XXX. THE FINANCIAL SYSTEM AND CONDITIONS OF THE ISLAND.......... 426 CHAPTER XXXI. AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO...................... 436 BOOK III.-CUBA. "THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES"................................. 455 CHAPTER XXXII. A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY................................ 46? CHAPTER XXXIII. FROM COLUMBUS TO W EYLER................................... 473 CIIAPTER XXXIV. INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA....................................... 482 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXV. OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN.................................. 496 CHAPTER XXXVI. HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA........................ 503 CHAPTER XXXVII. THE END OF TTIE WAR IN CUBA............................ 5'2I CHAPTER XXXVIII. REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR............................ 534 CHAPTER XXXIX. CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA........................ 55I CHAPTER XL. A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA............................. 568 CHAPTER XLI. COMMEFRCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA......................... 582 CHAPTER XLII. THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES........................... 598 CHAPTER XLIII. CUBAN CONDITIONS, RESOURCES AND THE FUTURE................. 607 BOOK IV.-THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. "THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC".......................... 629 CHAPTER XLIV. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII.............................. 632 CHAPTER XLV. UNDER TIE AMERICAN FLAG................................... 646 CHAPTER XLVI. D)ESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.......................... 663 A~ - w -~"; aiO cil~-d Q5 ~~~~~~~I na " ii~~~a~"i~~~~~~ ~ ~ GE | ll EI W _gc -~I~ r Ii-t E. ~~~~ia i~,... *III i _.. ~~~~~ i m XEr -ll l r~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~" '':".~l i v it::~~0_ ". r~~~ xr_ a~ iT ~ ~ ~ ~ ~._ E ~p~~ -I~~i~~Y X I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_ ~~~=- _1 - W ',S 8?~~~fj<1S L, L ~gFc.r S |E| ''}8, O -; -, x t~E da_ X lair ~9= sI II tUX to ld "~~~ l.' LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The Three Great Naval Heroes of the War with Spain. Meeting of Miles and Shafter at San Juan Hill. Admiral George Dewey in the Battle of Manila. Birthplace of Admiral Dewey, Montpelier, Vermont. Spanish Naval Coaling Station, Santiago de Cuba. Siboney, the Military Base in Cuba. BOOK I. Emilio Aguinaldo. Group of Insurgent Officers. Meeting of the First Congress of Filipino Insurgents. Insurgent Soldiers in Pondo. Native Children, Molo, Philippine Islands.-Group of Natives Near Iloilo. Typical Street in Jaro.-Street in Iloilo. Santa Ana, One of the Suburbs of Manila. Common Mode of Punishment in the Philippines and Ladrone Islands. Execution of Insurgent Soldiers.-Cock Fighting in the Philippines. Filipino Girl, Middle Class.-Filipino Boy, Upper Class.-Water Carriers in the Philippines. Ia Insular Cigar Factory, Manila. Village on the Island of Camaguin. Cordage Factory of Santa Mesa, Near Manila. Street in Native Quarter of Iloilo.-In the Suburbs of Iloilo. Native Harpist of the Philippines.-Negritos in the Island of Luzorr. Native Houses in the Suburbs of Manila. Cathedral Within the City Walls, Manila. On Corregidor Island, Entrance to Manila Bay. A Freight Train in the Philippines.-A Harrow in the Philippines.-How the Fields of the Philippines are Plowed.-Hauling Bridge Timbers. A Public Reader in Manila. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A Native Cab in Manila. Rural Scene in Luzon. Roadside Shop, Interior of Luzon. Cigar Factory in Manila. Interior of a Cigar Factory, Manila. Typical Scene in Luzon. Joss Rock in the Philippines. Mouth of the Pasig River, Manila. Bridge Across the Pasig River. Church at Town of Antipolo, Philippines. Cebu, Philippines. Village of Pampanga, Luzon. Laborers in Tin Mines, Mindanao. Village of Sacloban, Island of Leyte, Philippines. Scene on the Pasig River. Sugar Drying in the Philippines. Street Scene in Sampoloc. Native Wedding Festival. Transportation in Albay, Philippine Islands. Volcano in Albay. Native Carriage in Luzon. Typical Residences in the Outskirts of Manila. Grinding Sugar Cane, Philippines. Type of High-Class Woman of Manila. A Native Padre of the Philippines. Mestizo Children in Manila. House of General Aguinaldo. General Pilar and Staff of the Insurgent Forces. Insurgent Fortifications Near Cavite. John Chinaman in Manila. A Farmer's Cart in the Philippines.-A Social Group. Filipino Policeman with Prisoners. A Group of Spanish Mestizos. Native Fishing Boat, Manila.-River Pasig in the City of Manila. Arsenal of Cavite.-In the Stocks Three Days, Manila. A Bathing Pool in the Philippines.-Native Women of the Philippines. Native Huckster of Manila. Spinning in Manila. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Woman of Batangas. Agriculture in the Philippines. Theatrical Performance. Tropical Vegetation in the Philippines. Peasant Homes in Luzon. Moro Women in Mindanao.-Fishermen in Iloilo. A Native of the Caroline Islands.-Native Man and Woman of Mindanao. Grinding Corn for Bread in Luzon.-Native Chiefs of Mindanao. Moro Weapons from Mindanao. Native Hut Near Calamba, Laguna Province.-Filipino Laborers Stripping Bamboo. BOOK II. San Juan de Puerto Rico from the Sea Wall. Cemetery, San Juan de Puerto Rico. City Hall and Public Building, San Juan de Puerto Rico. A Hillside Street in San Juan de Puerto Rico. Landing-Stage for Small Boats, San Juan de Puerto Rico. Scene on a Cattle Ranch, near Barceloneta, Puerto Rico. Street of the Cross, San Juan de Puerto Rico. Poultry Seller of Puerto Rico. How Market Supplies are Transported in Puerto Rico. San Justo Street, San Juan de Puerto Rico. A Colored Belle of Puerto Rico. Confection Venders of Puerto Rico. The Governor's Palace, San Juan de Puerto Rico. View of the Harbor, San Juan. The Paseo, a Favorite Promenade of San Juan. Government Offices in San Juan de Puerto Rico. Belles of Puerto Rico.-Cathedral of Guayama, Puerto Rico. BOOK III. Tomb of Columbus, Havana. Palace of the Captain-General, Havana. The Indian Statue in the Prado, Havana. Bananas in the Botanical Garden of Havana. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Summer Cottage of the Captain-General, H-lavana. Mule Cart, Havana. The Cuban Village of El Caney. Courtyard of Cuban House, Havana. The Cathedral of Havana. Havana of the Past, Barracks Erected in I573. Cathedral Street, Santiago de Cuba. View of Matanzas, Cuba. Church of Monserrate, Matanzas, Cuba. The Plaza, Matanzas, Cuba. Suburban Residence Street, Matanzas, Cuba. Plaza de Armas, Havana. Drive to Caves of Bellamar, Matanzas. Interior of Caves of Bellamar. Sugar Mill near Culea, Cuba. Passenger Boat Landing in the Harbor of Havana. BOOK IV. The Annexation of Hawaii. Sugar Cane Plantation, Hawaii. Main Street, Honolulu. The Atherton Residence, Honolulu. Native Grass House near Pearl Harbor. Luau, or Open Air Feast, Hawaii. An Island in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. American Engineers in Pearl Harbor. Planting Rice, Hawaii.-Pineapple Ranch, Hawaii. Natives of Hawaii Making "Poi." President Dole and Senator Morgan at a "Luau."-President Dole of the Hawaiian Republic. "Off to America. - Sailing Day at Honolulu. -- American Congressional Party at a "Luau," Honolulu. INTRODUCTION. Kipling's Toast to the Native-Born-New Lands to be Ruled by American Law or Dominated by American Influence-Problems of Colonial Government to be Solved-The Philippines, Puerto Rico, Cuba and Hawaii, Each Its Own PuzzleAmerican Possessions Extending Half Way Around the World-The United States and the Eastern Question-Poverty of Information Available Concerning Our New Island Possessions-Opinions of the Secretary of Agriculture on the Importance of the Islands to American Farmers, Merchants and Mechanies. I charge you charge your glassesI charge you drink with me To the men of the Four New Nations, And the Islands of the SeaTo the last least lump of coral That none may stand outside, And our own good pride shall teach us To praise our comrade's pride. -Rudyard Kipling. ITHIN the measure of a single year, there have come into the possession and under the sway of the United States of America, four splendid colonies. Two have been captured by force of American arms on land and sea; one has been aided to her own experiment in freedom with an assurance of American assistance, advice and dominance in the organization of her new life; one has come to us of her own free will, to join the western republic and obtain greater measure of prosperity, progress and security. So far as political relationships are concerned, all remain with an element of doubt. It is impossible to presage exactly the forms of government which wisdom may prescribe for Puerto Rico and Hawaii; it is impossible to know in advance the details of transfer of the Philippine islands from the power of Spain to the nation that is to inherit 15 16 INTRODUCTION. them; it is impossible to be assured what measure of peace, what outlines of government, and what American relationships are to be the immediate sequence of affairs in Cuba. The Philippines have been cursed by Spanish influence since the day of MagelPROBLEMS THAT lan's discovery, and with their swarming millions of ARE TO BE SOLVED. orientals present a problem not to be solved hastily. Concerning them intuition must wait upon logic and experience. We have found the islands in the midst of their own effort to throw off the yoke of Spanish oppression, and we have lifted the burden from their shoulders. Cuba comes to her freedom through centuries of oppression and misrule, the last three years, with all their horror and suffering, perhaps the happiest, because they were years during which patriots were fighting for the liberty of their own land. Hawaii comes under the banner of the stars and stripes, of her own motion, as the ultimate solution of her own island puzzle, a puzzle in which romance, commerce, history, tragedy and farce shared former years with restlessness and revolution leading to the republic. Puerto Rico, the only one of the four in which violence of late has been at rest, has suffered hardly less than her neighbor in the Antilles from the blight of Spanish dominion, and her people rejoice not less over the change in their station. "Our New Possessions." It is these things that justify to all alike the phrase, "Our New Possessions." Islands are no less in possession merely because political rule may not extend to them. If responsibility for the liberty, the peace, the commerce, the education of a people are not to imply a measure of possession without the additional link of political affiliation, the use of the expression will have to be revised. If we possess the commerce andl the friendship of our neighbor islands it is enough to explain the word. To dominate in commercial influence and in all things for the uplifting of a swarming population of alien races, is a function as worthy and of more interest and consequence to most of our people, than the mere detail of official sway. The Philippines, Puerto Rico, Cuba and INTRODUCTION. 17 Hawaii, all by moral right and manifest destiny are the noble fruits of victory and the rising power of the great American commonwealth. From the eastern capes of Puerto Rico to the westernmost of the Philippines is half way 'round the world. NO SUNSET ON AMbERI-CANJ When the sun is sinking in the western horizon, be- SHORES. fore the eyes of the American citizen of Manila, it will be dawning again in the east for the American citizen of Puerto Rico. Its rays will gild the hills of the Spanish islands of the Caribbean, flash over the hills of our own eastern states, the prairies of our middle west, the mountains of Colorado and of California, and without an intervening moment of darkness will pass on over Alaska, the Hawaiian islands, the extremest of the Aleutian chain and the Ladrone islands to that most eastern of all-or most western, according as one journeys around the World-to reach the Philippines. The sun will never set on American possessions. For good or ill, the United States has entered upon a colonial policy, a policy of expansion, a policy which forces us into the position of a world-power, deep in the complications of international politics and the Eastern Question. It is now too late to turn back. Once having reached this position, it is unnecessary to argue the importance of obtaining all the adequate knowledge available on the great questions involved. American citizens, with the welfare of their country at heart, are endeavoring to familiarize themselves with the details of conditions in these new dominions and in the countries adjacent to them. Without experience or precedents of our own in a colonial policy, we are forced into the position of creating one, without time for experiment. We must learn while we govern and govern while we learn, and this too in close comparison with our neighbor nations in the Orient which have spent hundreds of years in the OUR NEW NEIGHBORS IN government of colonies and the methods of coloniza- THE ORIENT tion. Great Britain, Germany, France, Russia, Holland, Portugal and Spain will be our European neighbors in the Orient; Great Britain and France in the West Indies. For intelligent development of our new possessions and in order to make of them the best lands possible for ourselves and for the millions who inhabit them, we must know of the sphere of commercial and political influence 18 INTRODUCTION. of each of these colonial powers and their relations with Japan, China, Korea, and the islands of the Orient in the Pacific, as well as with the Central and South American republics that border the Caribbean. The purpose of the accompanying volume is suggested in the foregoing outline of an evident need. It is such an obvious necessity to obtain and command the information on the subjects outlined, that the effort of justification is beyond question quite superfluous. But the subject itself is so ponderous and of such enormous consequence that it would be presumptuous for any author to cherish aspirations toward perfect success. The four books here included are but four books, and if there be found in them omissions of consequence, they must be charged to the material limitations of paper and covers rather than to the desire of the writer. So far as inadequacy of treatment within these limits is concerned, a generous judgment is hoped, the hope based on this same consciousness of the intention to afford accurate, conprehensive and entertaining information of an important and valuable sort within the limits here available. It is worth while, in the beginning, to call some attention to the exceeding poverty of information at present at command in printed form, concerning the subjects which are to be treated herein. First to mind come the Philippines, a group of islands the MEAER INFOR- name of which was hardly known to Americans a MATION ON THE SUBJECTS. ear ago. Says one of the most recent writers, jocularly but pertinently, "By the victory of our fleet at Manila bay, one more of the world's side-tracked capitals has been pulled from obscurity into main lines of I)rominence, and the average citizen is no longer left, as in days gone by, to suppose that Manila is spelled with two l's and is floating around in the South Seas somewhere between Fiji and Patagonia. The Philippines have been discovered and the daily journals with their cheap maps have at last located Spain's Havana in the far east. It is indeed curious that a city of a third of a million people-capital of a group of islands as large as New England, New York, Delaware, Maryland, and New Jersey, which have long furnished the whole world with its entire supply of Manila aemp, which have exported some 160,000 tons of sugar in a single year and which to-day produce as excellent tobacco as that coming from the EMILIO AGUINALDO;ienceral Aguinaldlo, commander-in-echief of the insurgent armies in the Philippine tslanlds a president of the newrly organized government of the Reptblica Filipino'" is a ntaof Stlght phl sicute but great ability as an organizer and commnander of men. N,~ ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ 3J II)~~~~~~~~~~b 17"777~~~~~ L"' Aw INTRODUCTION. 19 West Indies-it is curious, I say, that a city of this size should have gone so long unnoticed and mis-spelt. But such has been the case, and until Admiral Dewey fired the shots that made Manila heard round the world, the people of these United States-with but few exceptions -lived and died without knowing where the stuff in their clothes-lines came from." Until the imperative demand for more explicit information concerning the Philippines brought out a new crop of literature within the last few months, there has been but one book of any particular consequence regarding that island group. It so happened early in the present year, that the necessity arose for me to gather for newspaper publication such facts as were obtainable regarding tihe islands then rising into American prominence. I was anxious to fortify and supplement my personal knowledge of the POVERTY OF LITERATURE ON subject with such other sources of information as T THE PHILIPPINES. could find, in order to verify my own impressions, opinions and recollections. I began by searching the encyclopedias under all headings which could refer in any way to the islands and the cities of the Philippine group, the natural resources of the archipelago and the native races. Then I turned to the published volumes in one of the greatest American libraries and searched through the works of Spanish, German and English authors who had written on the same subjects. Periodical literature was the next source of information, and with the aid of Poole's exhaustive indices I drew on every inagazine which had printed a paragraph about the Philippines within the last fifty years. When all was done and all the matter resulting col. lated, there was a total yield of bullion from the great quantity of ore which had been run through the stamp mill, not more than enough to fill a half-a-dozen newspaper columns with authentic, serviceable information. Since then there have been printed in the newspapers of the United States hundreds of columns of matter of variable reliability, written by the most casual observers with the utmost speed. The magazines have printed reminiscences from every traveler who has visited Manila. Three or four volumes of varying value have been rushed from the printing presses. The offerings now are larger, but they have not all been of quality sufficient to satisfy the demands of 20 INTRODUCTION. the American public for real information. The writer who wishes to formulate anything of permanent service must turn again to his own private sources of information, or collate and discriminate with the utmost care. If there is any value in such work it must be in its accuracy. It is well enough to be interesting when interest and a.uthenticity do not conflict, but the former must be sacrificed to the latter in every case where they do not harmonize, if such work is to be of any service to those who read and rely upon it. Of Puerto Iico, exactly the same things are true as those suggested concerning the Philippines. In spite of the proximity of this island of the Antilles to our own shores, it has been an unknown land to our people. Spanish policy has (discoluraged the developPUERTO RICO ment of natural resources in Spanish colonies by the AJLMUOST AiN UNKNOWN LAND. investment of outside capital, while at the samne tinme the people of the colonies have been so oppressed that they have not dared to develop at their own expense for fear of overwhelming taxation. Tourists have visited the English colonies on either side of Puerto Rico by hundreds, for every one who has visited the Spanish island. Communication from the United States to San Juan or Ponce has been infrequent and unattractive. The works of travelers and scientists who have written about the West Indies have contained chapters on the little islands of the Windward chain where they contain paragraphs on Puerto Rico. Even those things that have been written concerning the latter island, whether in Spanish, German or English, have been in great degree inaccurate and valueless for any practical purpose. A similar search made for material on Puerto Rico, just prior to the outbreak of war, resulted like that search for facts about the Philippines, in a meager and unsatisfactory quantity of uncertain quality. It was a satisfaction to me, which I am sure will be pardoned, that I was able to spend sufficient time in Puerto Rico during the last few months to make careful personal study of every phase and condition of island affairs, with the purpose of obtaining satisfactory material for the present work. In whatever else the following pages may fail, I pride myself that they do not lack accuracy in matters of fact. Cuba has had a larger measure of attention from writers and trav INTRODUCTION. 21 elers than the other Spanish colonies, but the necessity for work of another character is not yet obviated. Warfare has taken the dominant place in all recent works on Cuba, to the exclusion of matter which would relate to the works of peace. Travelers of the past have visited Hlavana and a few other cities of the island, and have written picturesque descriptions of tropical scenery and life, without paying much attention to commercial and indus- PEACE SUCCEEDS WAR trial affairs. The writers of the last few years have IN CUBA. been compelled by the conditions within the island and by the direction of popular interest outside, to treat of the progress of insurrection instead of the works of peace and prosperity, which were forbidden by that very insurrection. But peace has its victories greater than those of war. The sad history of oppression and insurrection in "The Pearl of the Antilles" seems to be ended, and with Cuba at peace the riches of the island and the marvelous opportunities for its future progress rise into view with an imperative demand for attention. It has been my privilege to know alike the Spanish, the insurgent and the American leaders in Cuba on both coasts of the island. I have studied the industrial, agricultural, commercial and social conditions of Cuba with some care, and I cannot deny the conviction that in some degree this study has been productive of worthy results. In the Hawaiian islands my study of affairs has not been less careful. It has been directed into like channels concerning the industrial, commercial, agricultural and social conditions, with special attention to the solution of those problems which intermingle the history of the Hawaiian natives with the dominance of American civilization and the influx of Asiatic immigration. My last journey to the Hawaiian group ended just in time to begin another to the Spanish colonies of the West Indies, at the outbreak of our own war with Spain, during which I renewed the associations and the study which had ended in Cuba less than a year be- ROMANCE OF HIS fore. The Hawaiian islands, with their revolution WAIUN ISLANDS. and their republic, have occupied much attention in the public prints, but the subject has been by no means exhausted, and with the change to American possession, interest in the matter and INTRODUCTION. the importance of it to American readers have been greatly multiplied. Agriculture in the Tropics. Not the least important of all the relations in which American readers will have practical interest in our new possessions, is their conditions in agriculture. We are pre-eminently an agricultural people, and except for the bonanza seekers who settled California and Colorado, most of our pioneering has been done by our farmers, who have sought new homes and have made the waste places of the west to blossom and bear rich fruits of husbandry. The Hon. James Wilson, Secretary of Agriculture in President McKinley's cabinet, emphasized an important truth in a speech made a few weeks ago to an audience of Indiana farmers. He said in part: "What does all this mean to you and me —we producers, we fellows who cultivate the fields? It means that we will begin to educate those people, and the moment you educate a man he wants to dress better and eat better, and as you give more employment to the factory people we fellows have better customers. That is what the immediate result will be. The men who rule the world eat beef and wheat bread and they want to put creamery butter on top of the bread. Where will that beef come from? Why, it is you people who produce that beef. They don't produce bread. They don't produce dairy products. So that the result of this war is going to be more customers for the products of these magnificent pastures of yours. We western men, in the Mississippi valley, will have more customersmillions more customers and millions more profits. I have been watching your rich soil. I have been looking at the cornINTEREST FOR fields and the animals grazing on your pastures. You THE ANMERI.- CAN FARMER. see the possibilities, the benefit coming to you farmers of this great state from intercourse with people of the twentieth meridian, 'way down in those insular possessions." It has been my special pleasure, as well as care, in all my tropical journeys in the West Indies and in the islands of the south and west Pacific alike, to study the methods of tropical agriculture and the care INTRODUCTION. and profit of crops strange to farmers of the United States. In all of these islands one finds sugar and coffee and tobacco, with a host (f products of lesser importance but equal interest and sometimes greater profit. Explicit information on these subjects, for the benefit of American inquirers, is a feature of the accompanying volume which is not duplicated in any work of similar sort, so far as my knowledge extends. I would be reluctant to close this introduction without full acknowledgment of my indebtedness to the travelers and the writers who have gone before me, in their works on subjects kindred to those included in the present volume. Whether it be on the Philippines, Puerto Rico, Cuba or Hawaii, nearly every recognized authority and many of obscure fame have been read and studied in order to insure a greater measure of accuracy and a greater fund of information. It is impossible to name the entire list of those to whonm I am frank to own indebtedness, in the ranks of Spanish, (erman and English authors, as well as American. But after all such obligations are recognized, I cannot refrain from recalling that most of the essential facts and conclusions are the result of my own researches and travel. To the extent that I have drawn upon the fund of information of others, I still have squared it by my own opinions and information and therefore have made it my own. For it all, therefore, I am willing to accept judgment, asking only what leniency may be expected from a generous public always ready to recognize a. worthy purpose, however far short it may come in fulfilling its own desires. IIT I Book I. C1~ Philippine Islands. N i W~~~ G C11,i sowsJa < | | 11 is o~ El SIBONEY, THE MiLIT ARY BAS IN CUBA This open roa)lsteaL, several mile Hearer Santiago than was Baiquiri, becane te landhitg-plare for the greater part of thre American arsy of invasion. Frof here the (iicult x aate was made On the Althe sitk andl wouided were trought back to) "SU-Ie, "llere file kelneraf~ll ho-1nit~lil Kl tte fever hopital ere established, I iio -= —D7 - - - 200 1250 I5 'Wnt. ' 1' ".H.d-Ifo"mgo Lolgtude East fmm Greenwich ORIMOS (To Japan) ( k v 4;Q4 Takaua Pelam [_2 O; -K < 4.tlEBOTDL a I igBM B L.M. an au!J0,,<,>,^a -;l;0 -,J _ lo = # = _rP - -'ag ISLL A D OAntonio Bay 0Taboan PBAGtYn Su SaaipastsatogiO Pt. 0 - a' Bali 'Mg N n ONN I&a CA YA:N 'os^ LL co Ab 011.S orucd cL. ags [ Abal a aru0 Y Sta Mari L laz NN OOayo ~-.B t130JaN' h CAP!,%.^ 3/ I - ' Ipny aO' Seraxogali. ^0R N ^0p CIOAYA~~ -:- "COPS-rrAr:'iiIT..DT:!' _N. BrT: —L'W7ii ii... ibai1a ra 11I50 ol l Brnu~~~~~~ru II, "J,'~~~~~~~~ OUR NEW POSSESSIONS. CHAPTER I. HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. The Trackless Wilderness of the Pacific Ocean-Its Wonders of Science, Adventure and Romance-Neighbors a Thousand Miles Apart-"The Milky Way of the Pacific"-Voyages of Magellan, Cook and Byron-The Pacific Islands in Literature-European Colonies in the East Indies-Some Details of Geography -Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia-How Magellan Entered the Service of Spain-The Search for New Spice Islands-Mutiny, Wreck and DesertionFirst Sight of the Philippines-A Welcome from the Natives-Treaties of Peace, Brotherhood and Allegiance-Death of Magellan-Return of the Expedition to Spain-Philip II. Sends a Conquering Force to the East IndiesLegaspi's Invasion of the Philippines-Success of the Spanish Arms-Manila Declared the Capital-Legaspi and Weyler. xW x ESTWARD from San Francisco lies the lonesomest ocean of the earth, except those unknown icy seas in the Arctic and Antarctic polar regions. The Pacific ocean, stretching ten thousand miles north and south and varying from four to eight thousand miles from east to west, is so stupendous in its area and so comprehensive in the wealth of its interest, that science and commerce have barely begun to discover what may be found within these limits. It sweeps from Behring strait to the Antarctic icebergs. On the east both Americas bound it, from Alaskan shores to Cape Horn. Westward the limits are the coasts of Asia and Australia. In its deepest abysses -the most extreme ocean depths ever sounded-are forms of life found nowhere else. Ranging through every zone from north to south and including, as it does, those portions of the earth which are alike the geographical and the ethnographical antipodes of European and American civilization, it contains material for a hundred books on a hundred subjects, without exhausting the things of consequence and interest. In the great triangle of which the corners may be assumed to be 33 34 HO W THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. Easter island in the southeast, Sumatra in the southwest and the Siberian island of Saghalien in the northwest, are included thousands of islands hardly known to geographers, and peoples whose characteristics have never been studied. The distances are far greater than usually comprehended. Some fanciful writer with a capacity for apt phrases, has called the central portion of this great sweep of islands "the milky way of the Pacific." By the chart the phrase is justified, for the islands on a small map seem dotted as thickly as the stars in heaven. One must stop to measure the scale in order to realize that these groups are separated, not by intricate channels difficult of navigation, but by hundreds or even thousands of miles of deepest ocean. Neighborhoods in the mid-Pacific are measured even more generously than among the prairie farms of our western plains, and the white settler on one coral reef feels less lonesome when he learns that there is another within three or four days' sail of his schooner. There are names famous in the exploration of the south seas which will occur to every reader's mind. Magellan discovered the DISCOvERIES Philippines and Cook the Hawaiian islands, as we in OF COOK sist on saying when some one from our own circle of AND civilization finds something of which we did not know MAGELLAN. before, although the people who lived in the adjacent regions may have maintained a commerce and a primitive civilization of their own for hundreds of years without ever realizing that they had not been discovered. Magellan sailed through the straits between Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, which still bear his name, reaching the spice islands of the Pacific. Legaspi, the next great Spanish explorer in the East Indies, named that notable group for his own sovereign, under whose patronage he was sailing-King Philip of Spain. Captain Cook in the voyage which brought him first to the Hawaiian archipelago, where he was afterwards slain by the natives, found a civilization, crude it is true, and even cruel, but it was their own, and he was as presumptuous as the other explorer in naming the newfound islands for his own patron, Lord Sandwich of the British admiralty. It is a strange contradiction of the ideas usually accepted regarding the stability of Spanish and English impress upon the lands reached by those influences, that the Spanish name still stands where HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 35 it was first supplied, while the name of Sandwich is almost forgotten in connection with the more eastward island group. Lord Byron, the uncle of the poet, was another who explored those seas, while in an earlier day Tasman and Van Diemnen and many another whose name is preserved in the geography of the south seas, cruised about to find the remote lands that were then new to European knowledge. Masters of literature have found material for the delectation of their readers in these far-away waters. Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stevenson, Charles Warren Stoddard and Mark Twain, Louis Becke and Joseph Conrad are those who have written the descriptions, the romance and the fiction of the south seas in most attractive form. Scientists have studied ethnology in the islands and marine life at sea. Yachtsmen have cruised for the pleasures of the picturesque life of the islands. Now commerce is coming to the fore. It is only by studying the charts that one can have accurately placed in mind the relative locations of the distinct groups in this great stretch of ocean. The Hawaiian ISLAND GROUPS islands, although more than two thousand miles THE CIFIC southwest of San Francisco, are but the eastern boundary of the volcanic chains. Tahiti of the Society islands, the Friendly islands, the Samoan or Navigators' group, Raratonga, Tongatabu, the Marquesas, the Fiji islands, the Carolines, the Ladrones, the Pelew islands, the Radack chain and the Ralick group, are but names in most minds, and yet each has its port, its commerce, and its picturesque scenery and life. If one go farther westward into the Orient, where the islands are larger and richer and more populous, he will come to the Philippines and Java, Celebes, Sumatra, Borneo, and others whose names even are unfamiliar but which support populations of millions by productions of untold value. Every nation of Europe which has ever maintained outlying colonies has shared in the profits and the government of these islands. Portugal, Spain, Holland, Germany, France and England have divided the spoils between them. Until military exigencies sent Dewey to Manila during the early days of the Spanish-American war, our country had had no sphere of influence in the islands of the south and HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. eastern Pacific except in the two groups of Hawaii and Samoa. For many years the United States has been the dominant influence in the Hawaiian islands. In less degree, but to an extent no less well defined, the same influence has been dominant in Samoa, sharing this position with Great Britain and Germany, but clearly leading them in the mind of the natives. Geography of the Pacific Ocean. In the enormity of the lPacific ocean it is necessary to be more explicit in one's geography than the mere characterization by points of the compass. Geographers have named the island groups and the seas which surround them according to the natural characteristics of the natives they found or the fame of the explorer who visited them or the conditions of language, fauna and flora. That little bit of ocean between New Zealand and Australia, only a thousand miles square, is called the Tasman sea. Between New Guinea and Australia is the Arafura sea. That torrid body of water bounded by Borneo, Sumatra, Java and Celebes is the Java sea. Between Indo-China and the Philippines is the China sea. South of the Philippines and between that group and Borneo and Celebes is the Celebes sea. These bodies of water are as well defined in their boundaries and in their physical characteristics as the Caribbean or Mediterranean. They and a dozen others that might be named, which are contained within the outer limits of the same great Pacific ocean, are the highways of thousands of vessels bearing commerce of enormous riches among the islands of the Orient. Geographically, the island groups of the Pacific are divided into three great classifications, Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia. Their limitations are not exact, because to some extent they POLYNESIA, have been based on the kindred languages of the naMICRONESIA, AND eL MELANESIA. tives in various island chains, and these by shipwreck or daring explorations in their own canoes, have scattered about the Pacific until sometimes a Polynesian people may be found thousands of miles from the parent stock of the race. Speaking generally, however, Polynesia includes the southerly and easterly islands which are inhabited by a race of savages of far higher type HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 37 than usually realized by those who have not examined into the question. It is among them that tlhe nearest approach to American ideas of civility and friendly wel(conle of strangers is found. Northwest of the Polynesian groups are those classified under the general name of Micronesia. Tlhey include New G(uinea, tle Sfolomon islands and others where most ferocious savages of low and warlike types are found. Of these many island(s are still unexplore(d and avoided by navigators because of the thlleaLt of daniger from tle natives. In the northern part of this division are in(lludled tle Caroline, Ladtone and Pelew islands, which have been unler Spanish dolminion and which are inhabited by natives of a milder type than their savage neighbors to the southward. Westernmost of all is that division of tropical islands known variously as Melanesia or Malaysia, including Sumatra, Java, Celebes, Borneo and the Philippines. With this preliminary information to freshen the memory of the reader concerning the geography of the great trolical sweep of tlhe Pacific ocean, we may apply ourselves more specifically to the immediate subject before us. It was but twenty-seven years after the first voyage of Columbus that another voyage under Spanish auspices began, the results of which are now intertwined with our own history. The period of exploration which made the fifteenth OFTABLEPEIOD century notable and which was crowned by the EXPLORATION. voyages of Columbus, stimulated the navigators of Spain, Portugal, HIolland, England and France to the utmost rivalry in their search for new lands and new seas. Balboa's discovery of the Pacific ocean induced many efforts to find the passage which presumably would give access to it from the Atlantic, but venture after venture ended in failure. Spain was to profit once more by the work of an alien, who, like Columbus, had turned from his own country to a strange monarch for encouragement and means. Ferdinand Magellan or Iernando Maghellanes, as the name stands in its original form, was a nobleman of Portugal, who had campaigned for his king in wars at home, fighting bravely and winning fame. Jealous companions attacked him to the king, discrediting his service and the wounds which rendered him a cripple. Resenting the bitterness of his sov 38 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. ereign's ingratitude, Magellan left Porltugal, became a citizen of Spain and finally won the favor of King Charles I. In those days monarchs were not exemlpt from the commercial spirit, and an agreement was lmade by which Magellan undertook the discovery of new spice islands. The king provided five vessels fully equipped and was a partner in the venture to the extent of sharing the larger part of the prospective profits. It was on the tenth day of August, 1519, that the explorer set sail with his modest fleet, and four months later the first stage of the voyage terminated with safe arrival at TIio de Janeiro. Magellan had to undergo an experience like that of his illustrious predecessor and face a. mutiny. Sailing from the Brazilian capital southward, in the endeavor to find a passage to the EXPERIENCES Pacific, he encountered severe cold weather and reOF MAGELLAN. sultant restlessness. The commnlander planned to enter one of the rivers which came down to the ocean from the interior of South America and there pass the winter, but his officers and crews disagreed on this proposition, some wishing to sail for home, some willing to follow their leader's plan, and others anxious to form plans of their own. It was the captains themselves who were most difficult to discipline. One of them was executed, in punishment for an attack made upon the commander, and another was set ashore in irons. Then the fleet entered the river as Magellan willed and passed the winter there in safety and comfort. The expedition moved slowly southward after spring opened, losing one ship by desertion and another by wreck, but on the 28th of October, 1520, the remaining three reached the straits separating Patagonia from Tierra del Fuego, which ever since have been known by the name of this first European commander who passed through them. Sailing westward and northward for many weeks, on the 16th of March, 1521, Magellan discovered what we now know as the Ladrone or Marianne islands. Magellan gave them a more musical name, calling them the Islas de las Velas or islands of the sails, because of the resemblance of some of the sharper hills, from a distance, to the sails of his vessels. After a short stay on these islands Magellan sailed fHOW TIHE PHIILIPPIfNES WERE FOUND. 39 southwestward, reachling for his next landfall the north coast of Mindanao, the largest island of the southern Philippines. Like Columbus in the West Indies, the explorer found the natives friendly and glad to furnish the Spaniards with plentiful provisions. Tlie local chief, who was, perllaps, the king of the island, related enticing tales of the riches of the other islands in the archipelago, particularly of (Ctebu, and off ered to pilot the expedition there because the king was a relative of his. Naturally this generous proposition was accepted with alacrity, and Magellan, MATAE after taking formal I)ossession of Mindanao in the MLNDANAO. name of his Spanish patron, sailed away for the neighlboring( islands. ile reached Cebu on the 7th of August, his arrival spreading alarm among the natives who saw from the beach the strange craft. The chieftain from Mindanao, however, gave them assurance that the strangers were but seeking food and were without any hostile design. The king of Cebu thereupon proposed to make a treaty with Magellan with botll Spanish and native ceremony. This proposition was welcoimed by the Spanish commander, who brought his men on shore, where imrpressive ceremonies were performed. The Spaniards erected a hut and celebrated mass in it, much to the interest of the impressionable natives. The members of the royal family and their retainers and other influential men were baptized and swore allegiance to their new master, the King of Spain. Then the native custom followed and the ceremony of exchange of blood in token of brotherhood was celebrated. No time was lost in beginning the activities which were to follow this offensive and defensive alliance. The king was in the midst of war with some of his neighbors and' Magellan entered into the conflict with his own men and arms with apparent pleasure. The result was fateful to him. Within a few months he was fatally wounded during an unimportant skirmish on the little island of Mactan, and died there in a short time. Spanish Slain by Treachery. Once the dominant force of Magellan's personality was absent, the expedition found its troubles multiplying. Trouble rose between Spanish and natives and twenty-seven of the former were slain by 40 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WIERE FOUND. treachery at a banquet where they had been the guests of honor. The total number of men for the three ships was now reduced to one hundred, an altogether insufficient number for the long homeward voyage. As a measure of prudence, one of the vessels was burned and the other two sailed westward again, this time discovering the large island of Palawan and touching a. part of north Borneo. At Tidor a cargo of spices was taken aboard, but one of the vessels sprang a leak and had to be abandoned. The other continued the voyage and finally reached Spain again, after undergoing many more hardships and adventures for her crew, thus completing the first circumlnavirgation of the globe. Although the results of this notable voyage were sufficient to stimulate King Charles to the organization of two more expeditions, neither of them accomplished anything commensurFURTIONR ETHE ate with the expense, labor and time involved. It was PHILIPPINES. not until more than forty years later that any serious attempt was made to reduce the lands to possession. Although the Philippines were nominally a part of the Spanish realm, their value was a matter of doubt, no commerce with them was organized, they produced no revenue, and there was not even a Spanish officeholder in the whole of the archipelago. It was Philip II., in whose honor the islands were to be named, inspired by religious zeal, who set out to conquer and convert to Catholicism the millions of islanders. The expedition was equipped in the American colonies of Spain, four ships and a frigate being made ready on the west coast of Mexico. Four hundred soldiers and sailors were gathered as an armry of invasion under the famous leader, Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, with six Augustine monks to introduce Christianity and look after the spiritual welfare of the native races who were to be conquered. The date of this expedition was 1563, but its progress was slow and some years intervened before the islands came under extended influence of the Spanlards. Legaspi took possession of Magellan's Islas de las Velas on the way, changing the name to the Ladrone or "robber" islands, as a tribute to the expert thievery of the natives, who adroitly stole a boat from one of his ships. Legaspi reached the Philippines first at Camaguin, and after - -. ---- - -- ---- - ------- 2 tS 1 1 X i ~ MFTE O iSiOET I~sfN Q T i III i;:RS% G t<1S~v:ei Of E 'II,IIi f, t1 19 ~ 'Ii >,i,~~~~ i% 1M' Ni -II t Iorce u W. 0.~:.., - te tli;i4 l )>;a~~& lt t(-tik 9laXt 0~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 0~~~~~~~~~~~~~ L 0 ~i F ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~t~ 2~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~Q fl~~~~~~~ 0~s ~~~~~ 6~~~~~~ TYP ICA TFREET IN JARO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.h' is ~l exuln rel,,.,,l,. i~l to m,.,~,,,.,. STFELT IN ILOILO Volum of- 1rl 1 c~itb: g g =t 4?l~gm~ 1fIi~ P ~~l~t~pini _I _ y -_ " (" 1X 5)tn~all~UI tral Is,~ 'E5 3 ~t1 9 It HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 45 touching at Bohol and sending one of his boats at Mindanao, decided to begin his invasion of Cebu. The ruling monarch, who had succeeded the king of Magellan's time, was much exercised upon the arrival of the squadron, and, selecting one of his bravest subjects, sent him as a spy to report on the Spaniards. The man came back deeply impressed by what he had seen, to assure his sovereign that the ships were manned by giants with long pointed noses, who were dressed in magnificent robes, ate stones, drank fire and blew smoke out of their mouths. With such a report as that filed for his official consideration, the king could do little but make ADVENTURES OF peace with the powerful strangers. When Legaspi LEGASPI. landed on the 27th of April, 1565, to take possession of the town, he met a welcome, but the natives soon became suspicious of his motives and made energetic attacks upon him. At one time his force was in great danger of extermination, but he held on bravely while the people grew accustomed to the new conditions. Then the Portuguese appeared on the scene and set up a claim for the islands, but they were soon driven off and the pacification of Cebu and the neighboring islands proceeded steadily. In 1569 Panay was invaded and the next year Legaspi's grandson, Salcedo, was sent with an expedition to subdue Luzon. June 24, 1571, the first city council of Manila was established and forms of government were enacted. One year later Legaspi died. The remarkable energies and abilities of this first conqueror of the Philippines cannot be ignored. His achievements were almost incredible. In Spain to-day he is still named as one of their notable heroes of conquest. Strange enough ENERGY AND ABILITY OF seems the coincidence that General Weyler, who was LEGASPI. himself the governor-general of the Philippines three hundred and twenty years later, should be the individual most responsible for the cruelties in Cuba which led to American interference in the affairs of that Spanish colony. Another detail of coincidence is that the Spanish gunboat employed by General Weyler in Cuban waters for his personal use between ports and as his personal dispatch boat, in which service I have seen it many times in Havana, was the Legaspi, named in honor of that first governor-general of the Philippines. CHAPTER II. THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES: The Chinese Invasion of Luzon-A Mongolian Colony in the Philippines-Massacres of the Chinese by the Spanish-Insurrection and Revolt in the Archipelago — Uprising of the Natives of Bohol, with the Causes of Outbreak-Revolution in Mindanao-Trouble at Cavite-Expulsion of the Jesuits-Five Thousand Killed in One Week-A Premature Explosion of Fire-works-Revolt Engendered by Spanish Friars-The British Capture of Manila-The Difficulty of Letting Go of an Undesirable Capture-Asiatic Cholera in the PhilippinesMassacre of Foreigners —A Period of Merciless Peace. T HE Spaniards were hardly more than comfortably settled in possession of their easily acquired new domain, when troubles began to brew. The rulers of China and Japan both claimed rights in the archipelago, and the former made a strenuous effort to enforce his rights and expel the rival conquerors. Between 1573 and 1575 ten separate attacks were made upon Manila by fleets from Canton and Amoy, with great loss on both sides, although, as might have been expected, the Spaniards ultimately were victorious. The most desperate of these attacks was that under the Chinese general and pirate, Li Mah Ong. The records are somewhat confusing as to his identity and status. At any rate he chanced to fall in with a Chinese trading junk which was returning from a trip to Luzon. This he captured and forced her crew to pilot him to Manila. He brought with him a formidable fleet of sixty-two armed junks carrying 4,000 men and 1,500 women. Hurried preparations were made for the defense of Manila against the threatened raid. The Chinese attacked the city immediately upon their arrival, forcing their way within the walls of the citadel itself. Hand to hand combats lasted for several days. The Spaniards fought with bravery, finally repelling the Mongolian invaders. Many vessels of the Chinese fleet were destroyed and large numbers of the soldiers and sailors killed. 46 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 47 Li Mah Ong next landed on the west coast of Luzon, establishing a settlement at the mouth of the Agno river, where he remained undisturbed for several months. Then a strong force was sent against him and again he was driven out. With the larger part of his force he left the archipelago for good. Many of the soldiers, however, were driven into the mountains as fugitives. With characteristic Chinese philosophy they settled in the fer- SPANISH WARS WITH tile valleys of the interior and started communities THE CHINESE which are still flourishing at the present time. They took wives from among the savages and to-day their descendants are hardly distinguishable from other Malays, although they take deep pride in their descent and look down upon their neighbors as being of an inferior race. The Spanish conquerors did not forget their antagonism to the Chinese, and at various times there were general massacres of the Mongolians which cost them thousands of lives. One of the more notable massacres of the Chinese took place in 1662. There was a Mongol chief in China who refused to yield at the time of the Tartar invasion in the middle of the seventeenth century. Instead he sailed to Formosa with his troops. At that time Dutch settlements had been founded in the island and 2,800 of the Europeans were attacked by about 100,000 Chinese and were forced to surrender. Word reached Manila that the Chinese were contemplating a descent upon the Spanish colony and the governor of the Philippines accused the Chinese among his own subjects of conspiracy in the contemplated attack. All the available forces were concentrated and when everything was ready the Chinese were incited to rebel and a general massacre followed. Men, women and children were killed indiscriminately, the Spaniards at first intending to kill every one of the Chinamen. Before they had carried out this intention it fortunately occurred to them that the resulting lack of tradesmen and mechanics would cause inconvenience, so those who remained alive were graciously pardoned on condition of laying down their arms. Some of the Chinese escaped to Formosa. In 1709 another massacre of Chinese occurred, this time only a few hundreds of the luckless Mongolians being killed. The rest of them, however, were deported and after the fashion that had been estab 48 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. lished, all their property was confiscated and divided between the church and state. Between 1628 and the middle of the next century nine attempts were made by the Spaniards to conquer the Sulu islands, but in every instance they were repulsed with heavy losses. The history of insurrection and revolt in the Philippines does not begin with the current one, of which General Aguinaldo is the leader. Although our interest has not been sufficient to be directed to the Philippines until recently, the population of those islands have had to contend with oppression which they have resented by BEGOINNGS uprisings frequently and as energetically as at the OF INSURRECTION. present time. The first noteworthy uprising was made by the natives of Bohol in 1622. The causes which led to it were the same which have provoked many of the more recent revolts, namely, the tyranny of the church and the burdensome taxes levied by church and state alike. The rebels were dispersed by troops under the governor of Cebu. So far as the causes of the outbreak of insurrections are concerned, they do not need to be reiterated in the successive revolts. Sometimes some special feature of oppression stimulated the outbreak as its immediate cause, but the seeds of discontent always lay dormant under Spanish dominion ready to germinate at the slightest signal. The people of northeast Mindanao broke out with another revolt in 1629 and were promptly suppressed. Twventy years later, the people of Samar rebelled on account of an attempt to force them into military service. Under the leadership of a chief named Sumoroy they killed a priest and sacked the churches along the coast. The governor of the island dispatched native emissaries to bring in Sumoroy's head, but they sent him instead the head of a pig. The revolt spread and troops were dispatched into the interior to quell it. THE REVOLT TEOLT They failed to take Sumoroy, but found his mother CHIEF SUMOROY. in a hut, and, true to Spanish traditions, literally tore the defenseless old woman to pieces. Sumoroy was at length betrayed by his own people. This uprising spread to other provinces and trouble arose in Masbate, Cebu and Mindanao. In the latter island things assumed so threatening an aspect that a large force of infantry was sent against the rebels. The officer in command, being THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 49 a diplomatist, first published a general pardon in the name of the king. He then made prisoners of the crowds of insurgents who flocked to his camp and sent them to Manila, where a few of them were pardoned and others executed, the majority, however, being made galley slaves. The natives of Pampanga province grew weary of being obliged to cut timber for the Cavite arsenal without pay, and in 1660 they revolted. Neighboring provinces joined in the rebellion and a native named Malong was declared king. He organized an army which was recruited to the number of nearly 40,000. Many Spaniards were killed, but the natives were finally defeated and scattered by a force ridiculously inferior in numbers to their own. The Jesuit priesthood in the Philippines was the stimulus for one of the more successful insurrections. In 1744 the despotism of a Jesuit priest caused an uprising in Bohol. The priest had not only ordered his parishioners arrested when they failed to attend mass, but had directed that the body of one of them should be left unburied to decay in the sun. The brother of this man organized a force, captured the priest and paid him in his own coin, killing and exposing his body for four days. The rebel forces were rapidly augmented by men who complained that while they were risking their lives in military service for the government, their homes were wrecked and their wives and families maltreated to secure the payment of tribute. The insurgents maintained their independence for thirty-five years, at the end of which time the Jesuits were expelled from the colony. The famous revolt led by Novales and Ruiz occurred in 1823. Under these officers a body of native troops tried to seize Manila and place their leaders at the head of the government. It is DESPERATE WORK needless to say that the attempt was an utter failure, DESPERTE ORK but it was very fierce and bloodthirsty, although TE REBELS. short, and is said to have cost the lives of 5,000 people within a week. Among the other uprisings which may be mentioned are one in Cebu in 1827, and one in Negros in 1844. The latter is said to have resulted from the governor's compelling state prisoners to work for his private advantage. Until the rebellion of 1896 broke out, the most formidable insur 50 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. rection occurred at Cavite in 1872. There were conspirators both at the arsenal and in the capital and it had been agreed that when the opportune moment arrived, the Manila contingent should signal the fact by discharging a rocket. The Cavite insurgents mistook fireworks sent up at a local celebration for the expected signal and began operations prematurely. They were forced to retire to the arsenal and all were eventually killed or captured. Hostility to the Spanish friars was at the bottom of this uprising also. A certain Dr. Burgos had headed a party which demanded fulfillment of the decisions of the Council of Trent prohibiting friars from holding parishes. These provisions had never been carried out in the Philippines, and the various orders were steadily growing more rich, powerful and arrogant. It is commonly believed that churchmen were the real instigators of this revolt, desiring to involve Burgos and his followers in treasonable transactions and thus bring about their death. However this may have been, the friars insisted that they should be executed and were able to enforce their desire. In the latter half of the eighteenth century, when all Europe was at war, the Philippines did not escape the consequences of those far-away hostilities. Great Britain declared war against France and Spain in 1761. Havana was captured by the British, as will be related in the portion of this work which treats of Cuba, and a fleet was dispatched under Admiral Cornish with orders to take Manila. On the 22d of September, 1762, this fleet arrived before the doomed WHEN DRDPER city, and land forces were disembarked under comMANILA. D mand of General Draper. After a stout resistance upon the part of the Spanish garrison, which was brave but far inferior to the English force in numbers, the city finally fell. The terms of capitulation were drawn up by Draper and the archbishop of Manila, who in the absence of a governor-general was serving in a double capacity. The agreement called for freedom in the exercise of religion; security of private property; free trade for all the inhabitants of the islands, and the continuance of the courts for the maintenance of order. The Spanish were to pay an indemnity of $4,000,000. In harmony with a custom then sadly common among victorious armies, THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 51 the city was given over for pillage. The English troopers are said to have shown moderation, but the Sepoys, of whom Draper had brought 2,200 from India, outraged, robbed and murdered the inhabitants in the very streets. On the following day there was a similar scene, whereupon the archbishop protested and Draper restored order. The surrendered territory included the whole archipelago, but the English never occupied more than that part of it which lay immediately around Manila. Even there they were not left undisturbed. One of the justices of the supreme court named Simon de Anda escaped in a native boat to the province of Bulacan. He declared himself governorgeneral and raised an army, but the desultory fighting which ensued between his forces and the British had no decisive results. A conspiracy to assassinate Anda and his Spanish followers was discovered among the Chinese in Pampanga province and a massacre of the Mongols followed. Anda was so enraged with them that he issued a proclamation declaring them all traitors and ordered them hanged wherever found. Thousands who had been in no way concerned in the conspiracy are said to have been executed. The war indemnity which had been agreed upon was not forth. coming. The British forces were harassed by attacks from without the city and by fear of treachery within, and at last the officers fell to, quarreling among themselves. Meanwhile the war had come to an end in Europe, and the evacuation of INDEMNITY COLLECTIONS Manila had been provided for by the terms of the ARE DIFFICULT. treaty of Paris concluded on the 10th of February, 1763. Anda, however, refused to consider the war ended until his authority was recognized, and hostilities in the Philippines continued for some months. Finally a new governor-general came from Spain. The British commanders were quite ready to turn the difficult problem over to him, and they promptly evacuated the city and sailed away, although a considerable portion of the indemnity still remained unpaid. It is more than likely that England would have kept the Philippines at that time if the European war had continued much longer, but Spain and France both sued for peace and the same treaty which ended the French and Indian war, as it wass known in the American c6lonies of 52 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. Great Britain and of France, provided for the restitution of Manila, to the government at Madrid. A crisis of another form came to the Philippine islands in 1820, which almost destroyed civilization in the colony. For the first time in its modern history the archipelago was invaded by Asiatic cholera. It began at Sampaloc, near Manila, spread to the capital city and thence went into every part of Luzon. The mortality THlE FATA E Swas frightful, some records declaring that over oneFATAL SCOURGrE OF CHEO~IERA. half of the population died from the disease. In the height of the epidemic the ignorant Spaniards and natives were seized with the idea that the disease was the result of a wholesale plot to poison them in the interests of the foreigners of the community. Mobs rose all over the island and massacred Chinese, French, English, Americans, and finally the Spaniards themselves. Houses were burned, citizens robbed and buildings looted. Ultimately the disorders were quelled. Since the revolt of Novales and Ruiz in 1823, the career of the Philippines has been comparatively calm and quiet except the Burgos rebellion at Cavite in 1872. There have been many minor uprisings, riots and revolts, but the policy of the government has grown sterner with the years and merciless measures have been put in effect. The smallest riot has been the signal for martial law. Small gunboats have made it possible to rush troops to the scene of every insurrection and not too much care has been taken to be sure of the guilt of those arrested. Every one involved or suspected usually has been tried by court martial and shot without delay. It was this condition which led up to the Aguinaldo revolt of 1896 and was in effect at the time of that outbreak. Beginning with that revolution the history of the Philippines has an American point of view to be considered.,. t. J IiC ATPNSM N IN ~~~~e exz~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~c UE-D~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~lr ~;;0" CII~ ~- Z = *"7..il~ i_:CI .: BI~:i~~ vl, Z ' a~ aq:, 8~ ";*1:~~ 4 g.% . ii1-3 a~": a x: al ua c igi w "T r~~ 1Zh c" Bs, II, s~ a yn 3 icL a ai,:i4Fs.-i sc LC ii x ~$~ ci, m~ 9 2 c::~~ W g x; r 0:i; Z iii -~-,p birii. .; ":~ -e i~ 9,~,1 Z z 111 ~blS? I RI I~i ~rK: LI ct 69 ~'i. " E.F:: il""i eE~ ib, i-E I —. iS. sr3 ai Li (3 Q o r3 %~ t;r 86~ 3 u u EL d.a 2 ep: i ~si sri n_ P CHAPTER III. AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. Restlessness of the Filipinos-Outbreak of Insurrection-Characteristic Spanish Policy-Bribery and Treachery-The Treaty of Biyak-Cubans and Filipinos Saffer Treachery Alike-Terms of the Treaty-Failure to Declare AmnestyGeneral Rivera Rewarded-Proclamations of the Junta Patriotica and General Aguinaldo-Antagonism Directed against the Friars and not against the Catholic Church. T O THE people of the United States, the most familiar name of all the native insurgents of the Philippine islands is that of Aguinaldo. His title in full is Don Emilio Aguinaldo y Famy, President of the Revolutionary Government of the Philippines and Generalin-Chief of the Army, but his signature is usually the single word by which he is known to us. Although we have known little of the progress of the insurrection against Spanish rule in the Philippines prior to the arrival of Admiral Dewey, yet the Philipinos have been making history for their islands long before that time, and their leader had not reached his position of eminence by accident, but by his own energies and abilities. For a long time the native inhabitants of the Philippine islands had been restless under the oppressive yoke of Spanish cruelty. Finally, under the advice of the organized Junta Patriotica an insurrection was begun, the principal strength of which was centered in the island of Luzon, as a threat against the city of Manila, the seat of Spanish government, and in the island of Panay, in which is situated the city of Iloilo, second in commercial importance in the archipelago. After a surprising series of insurgent successes, the Spanish government decided that bribery and treachery would SPANISH ATTEMPT TO BUY be more effective defenses for their possessions in the PEACE. East than would military operations. They began by offering a large sum of money, $800,000, to certain of the leaders of the 55 56 AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. insurrection on condition that the latter use their influence among the people to arrange for a treaty of peace and a termination of hostilities. This treaty of peace, according to the stipulations made by the Spanish, was to contain every concession for which the Filipinos had been fighting, except political independence. It is impossible to judge harshly the Filipinos who had been reared under the tutelage of Spanish rule, for their failure to draw fine ethical distinctions when such a proposition was placed before them. The examples and practices to which they had been accustomed might easily have demoralized men of sturdier moral fiber than these. Be that as it may, these leaders took the position that if their people could obtain everything for which they were fighting without longer warfare, there would be nothing wrong in accepting such generous payment for bringing about that desired consummation. Peace would follow with its attendant blessings. There would be no more loss of life and property, with the other suffering which always accompanies war. Their coulitrymen would have all the concessions for which they were striving and no one would suffer by their own acceptance of an attorney's fee. Therefore the proposition of the Spanish authorities was accepted and the treaty of Biyak was signed with great solemnity. Then came the time to test the sincerity of the parties to the agreement. It is well known that theFilipinos were ready to renew insurrection under the same insurgent leaders before the outbreak of war between Spain and the United States, the period of peace being but a short one. The $400,000 which had been paid to the insurgent leaders was being used advantageously for the purchase of arms and ammunition to carry on their warfare, with the result that the Filipino forces were equipped as they never had been before. It was an immense aggravation to the Spaniards, and one readily understood, that their own cash could be turned against them in this fashion. Some of the former insurgent leaders were still in the neighborhood of Manila, while others remained at Hongkong, where they continued to provide the munitions of war for a more hopeful insurrection. This was the condition when Admiral Dewey sailed from Hongkong to Mirs Bay, and thence to Manila for the fight that ended in the destruction of the Spanish fleet in thePhilippines. The whole justification or blame for the Filipinos rests on the AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. 57 question whether or not the Spaniards, the other parties to the treaty of peace, kept their part of the agreements so carefully made. The facts seem to show that Spain followed exactly the course which she followed in Cuba in 1878 to term- SPAIN'S SHAMEFUL POLIC, inate the Ten Years' War. The programme as carried OF DECEIT. out in each case, provided first for the bribing of the insurgent leaders to use their influence for peace; second the promising of whatever reforms were necessary to induce the insurgent armies to cease fighting; third the immediate punishment of all the insurgent leaders on whom they could get their hands as soon as peace was actually established and matters in their own hands; fourth, the renewed and redoubled severity of treatment to the pacified colony; and fifth, the utter ignoring and repudiation of every detail of the seductive promises they had made. A natural consequence of this chain of circumstances was the renewal of insurrection in each case by the deceived insurgents, as soon as new equipment and new organization could be arranged. It is impossible to blame them for responding to treachery after that fashion. In order to do no injustice to the insurgent leaders, concerning the money to be paid to them, it is but fair to state that there was no secrecy about it, nor did the men who formed the forces of their armies consider that any impropriety was involved. In the stipulation of the treaty it was declared that the Spanish government was to pay the insurgent government a war indemnity of 800,000 pesos, in payment of the arms, ammunition, depots and forts which were surrendered, and in order to indemnify those who were obliged to live abroad during the armistice. These facts were known to the insurgent armies, and consequently involved those to whom the money was paid in no charge of unfairness or bad faith in their dealings. By the terms of the treaty an armistice of three years was established and the natives were to lay down their arms and turn them over to the Spanish authorities. The REFORM PROMISED BY THE Spanish authorities on their part bound themselves SPANISH. to grant certain reforms, of which the most important were the restriction of the power of the religious orders, the representation of the Filipinos in the Spanish Cortes, the future impar 58 AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. tiality of justice and law between Spaniards and natives in the Philippines, the participation of natives in the office-holding of the islands, and the liberty of the press. It was agreed that the governor-general of the islands, General Primo de Rivera, should remain in that position throughout the three years of the armistice as a guarantee that the reforms would be established, and that a general amnesty should be proclaimed. The Spanish authorities were so far from carrying out their agreements that it would seem almost as if they had studiously endeavored to go as far as possible from tile terms of the treaty, and for the further irritation of the Filipinos. In the first place, General Rivera was removed from his post very soon, thus withdrawing from the islands the one who would have been best informed on the demands of the natives. The general amnesty was never declared, although a few pardons were given. Only half of the offered indemnity was paid. Instead of establishing the reforms, the very things which were most SPANISH PROMISES irritating to the insurgents were aggravated. The MAI)DE TO BE BROKEN religious orders were given increased power, two vacant bishoprics being filled at once by priests of the very orders that were the first cause of the insurrection. In the short time intervening between the signature of the treaty and the removal of General Rivera from Manila, he denied the existence of the agreement and executed many of the very persons whom he had promised to protect, endeavoring by this means to destroy the nucleus of the revolution. In Spain he was given the decoration of the grand cross of San Fernando, as a reward for the peace he had established. By all of these things the Filipinos believed themselves absolved from any obligation to Spain that had been assumed by the mutual agreements included in the treaty. Since the American invasion of the Philippine islands, numerous proclamations and documents have been issued by Aguinaldo himself, and by the Junta Patriotica, which are of great interest as showing the trend of thought of the Filipinos. Some of these are addressed to the people of the islands and others very evidently are intended for reading by Americans. One of the more notable of these is an injunction to all the natives of the islands to maintain peace and patriot AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. ism. It outlines likewise the desires of the islanders for their country. They declare for a stable government elected by the people, with laws enacted by those who are to live under them, and taxes levied fairly and honestly. They declare for honest and economical civil service in the charge of natives of the country, and such others as can serve as tea:chers of proper administrative methods. They declare for the liberty of business affairs, the construction of PROCLAMATIONS OF means of transportation, and the establishment of a AGUINALDO. system of pablic instruction. The people are enjoined not to fear any antagonism to the religion of the Roman Catholic church, under which they live, because of American dominance, recalling that the Catholic church in America shares the same freedom that is given to all. In every proclamation issued by General Aguinaldo he has enjoined upon his people the obligation to be peaceful, honest, and generous with the Americans. It has been an encouraging sign that these proclamations have been conservative and intelligent in their tone. The Filipinos draw a very clear distinction between the Catholic church as an organization and the religious orders to which the Spanish priests in the islands belong. They claim that they are themselves Catholics and that they honor the church and welcome its ministrations. For the priesthood, however, they have nothing but blame. They assert that the friars of the various orders, Jesuits, Dominicans, Franciscans, Augustines and Recollects have been the worst enemies of the people, prospering from their miseries, and traitors to their welfare. The priests must go, they assert, because they are mischief-makers and disturbing elements in the population. So deeply do they feel what they assert, that it is to be doubted if any mercy would be shown the Spanish priesthood should the Filipinos obtain authority sufficient to execute them. They desire their ministry to be made up of people of their own races, who are in sympathy with them. This condition is one that cannot be ignored in any plans for the future of the islands. CHAPTER IV. DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. Departure from Hongkong-Plan of the Battle-The First Shot-The American Fleet Off Cavite-The Flagship Olympia Begins the Fight-Daring Sortie of the Beina Cristina-Torpedo Boats Attack the Olympia-Spanish Vessels Burning-The End of the Battle-Condition of the Spanish Wrecks-Strange Conditions After the Battle-Insurgents Organize Their Provisional GovernmentFighting Between Spaniards and Insurgents-Waiting for the Army of Occupation. T THE time of the outbreak of war between the United States and Spain, the Asiatic squadron of the United States navy was lying at anchor in the harbor of Hongkong, the little British island colony near Canton, China. On Sunday, April 24, while the fleet was still lying at anchor off Hongkong, Commodore Dewey received pretty definite information that a state of war existed between Spain and the United States. He was notified that the British secretary for the colonies, Joseph Chamberlain, had decided that war had virtually begun, and that all British ports would be compelled to observe strict neutrality. The American squadron was given until 4 o'clock Monday afternoon to leave the harbor. The Boston, Concord, McCulloch and Petrel left Sunday afternoon at 2 o'clock. The Olympia, Baltimore and Raleigh left at 10 o'clock Monday morning. The scenes and incidents attending the departure of the warships were quite impressive. Promptly at 10 there was a simultaneous movement forward by the three ships, and then the band on every war vessel struck up "Hail Columbia." The British soldiers on board of a British troopship cheered as they passed, and the American sailors answered vigorously. Little steam launches puffed alongside the Olympia and the crowds of Americans on them waved handkerchiefs and cheered until the mouth of the harbor was passed. The Raleigh had unfortunately broken her air pump the day before 60 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 61 and the speed had to be kept down. At about 3 o'clock the vessels dropped anchor in Mirs bay, which is a little land-locked harbor thirtyfive miles north of Hongkong. The four other warships, which had gone the day before, were at anchor, and the two cargo boats, the Nanshan and Zafiro, were lying off a short distance. The combined fleet seemed to be very formidable. The American Asiatic squadron, consisting of the flagship Olympia, Baltimore, Raleigh, Boston, Concord, Petrel and McCulloch, and under command of Commodore Dewey, accompanied by the transports Nanshan and Zafiro, left Mirs bay at 2 P. M. April 27 for Manila. The fleet proceeded in regular formation across the China sea, 640 miles, and sighted Cape Bolinoa at 3:30 A. M. April 30. This point is about 115 miles north of the entrance to Manila bay. The Boston and Concord, and later the Baltimore, were then sent in advance of the fleet as scouts, and to explore Subig bay for two Spanish warships, reported to be there. This bay is thirty-five miles north of Manila bay. At 5:15 o'clock on the afternoon of April 30 the squadron came to a stop, and was rejoined by the Baltimore, Boston and Concord, which failed to find the Spaniards. A conference of commanders was held. It was decided to run past the forts of Corregidor island in the mouth of the bay, which was said to be strongly fortified, that night. The ships were ordered to conceal all lights except a faint stern light, which could be seen only from the direct rear, and slip by the forts in darkness.* About 11:30 the entrance to the bay could be seen. Two dark headlands-one on either side of the entrance-showed up gloomy and absolutely darkened against the shifting, uncertain clouds. In the space between a smaller mass showed where the dreaded Corregidor lies. A vivid patch of fire came slowly out from the black background and the squadron bore down directly toward it. It proved to be Greek fire, and was probably a night life buoy dropped by one of the ships. It danced and darted on the face of the water and until it was discovered what it was. there was a lot of suppressed excitement among the crews. At Corregidor it was understood the heaviest guns of the Spanish were located. The entrance was also said to be planted with mines, and it was known that there were torpedoes waiting for the ships. Let the approach and the battle be described by an eye-witness: 62 DEWIEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. The Olympia turns in and steers directly for the center of the southern and wider channel. The Baltimore follows and in regular order the rest of the fleet glide on through the night toward WENTEMENT the entrance. Still there is no firing from the forts, EXCITEMLtENT WAS INTENSE. and it is hoped that the daring maneuver may not be discovered. The excitement at this time is intense. The somber Corregidor and the big mass of hills at the south are watched with straining eyes. About this time the soot in the funnel of the McCulloch caught fire and this circumstance may have revealed the movements of the fleet to the enemy. The flames shot up out of the funnel like the fire of a rolling-mill chimney. For a minute or two it burned and then settled down to the usual heavy black rolls of smoke. A faint light flashed up on the land and then died out. A rocket leaped from Corregidor and then all was darkness and stillness again. The nervous tension at this time was very great. Again the flames rolled forth from the McCulloch's funnel and then again they gave way to the smoke. There was grinding of teeth on the McCulloch, for of all times in the world this was the most fatal time for such a thing to happen. While it burned it made a perfect target for the enemy. Still there was no firing. Now we are almost in the strip directly between two forts. The Boston is 200 yards in advance of the McCulloch, but the Concord, Petrel, Raleigh, Baltimore and Olympia are well in the harbor. Suddenly, just at 12:15 o'clock, a flash is seen on the southern shore, a white puff of smoke curls out, and the sound of a screaming cannon ball is heard. It passed well clear of the McCulloch, toward which it was fired. At the sight of the flash of flame and the subsequent dull report we waited in keen anxiety to see whether the ship would be struck. Now came an instant order from the bridge to load the after starboard six-pounder and fire five shells at the point where the smoke was seen. There was a short lull and the order was countermanded. Then there came a sound like the crashing of thunder and from the Boston went an eight-inch shell from her after gun. This was the first shot fired by the Americans. Immediately there came a whirring, singing shell that seemed to ~~~I,. i = G "- rs " "" Z ~:: o ro r?Z 31 5 r: -f; I i:;r z W "d *-* -i CL, iil d % m rZj " = C19? ar x ra ;stp D*i;Cr" — ;L" Q Ic —t V1 1-1 c CR = - " s c: d z rl ~i ~r3 m vl 133 s C: "C:: Z c c T ~1 i"TS ~r? 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L stoc, L; o il r~~r*~~ir p u L:r R-( )I* a ti tJ: di: r ~ bi & a m~,; -.m ~ .~Id.,, d tl ii, J 14 ii -ia: U I jl ii ," D J-r ii; " " " u R ' ii~~i r =-=i w i " = rxl i;~~ i i ~~ sia: ~It$~ 118;."; Si ~,w ~, c: k "~:i n: " :-~:_ i.. a,i i8(~~.rfi~f,~j, i~ 9Lf "J s J~~ I j: ~CR; n %.~.~ r: ~ -(ur:-a*rrlluss111%~11111,.: ~;~o u -~ ""o i ~ i: a i 1,e (=p 777, " - -7 - =- - -f. * -* - - * VILLAGE ON THE ISLAND OF CAMAGUIN PHILIPPINES This island occupies a position directly between 1indanao and B hol. It is not very large but is exceedIngl mountanous, and active volcaoes are fo Its highest peak is 338 feet in eigl. TIs was the first landig place of egap ou his oy age of onqlest 76 ~i. ~ ~~.~ ~ — ~. ..; 1 5, a 6 (1 ~i-" 17) ~~-~ "w U Ilr a i bd —" C~i-~ ri,, I,, ~ i o "C EU 3, T. (d * ~- 'C-" m ~i FL in BBb CI a " fl;]i O 14 "- nJ r, i: resl, ~ — m c f ~ Y Cc"l ea, fz;f " IIIEPI;P' "" 4 i I & ~a i; s 2"C ~e -r3 j V: . i-i % i, 41 n, E? i* I/Yi. O, o"-~ d (ltZlk -* Ir C: LCI i; '-"u J: 0 c a, a ~:i i nr? s '" ~z: dBi & c oo c c, tc W?i i C C3 - a C d 9: LFas — E =U" i~ +i r C131r 61 U 6111 L"" BLI irr ~iJ ~:r L dI) o r~i.. 8 a, I- P aii: a;b a."" Ed b:i * t DEWEY AND TUE BATTLE 01 MANILA BAY. 67 go a little ahead of the McCulloch's bow. The McCulloch now stopped and sent a six-pound shot at the battery, following it a minute later with another. The Spaniards answered this and once more the McCulloch sent a shot toward the vague, indistinct cloud of smoke showing against the dark hillside to the south. The Concord at this point fired a sixpound shot. All this time there is no sound from Corregidor, and it is a matter of surprise that shells have not been coining toward us from both sides. Then there comes quiet and the squadron gradually steams down the bay toward Manila. The Nanshan and Zafiro hug close to (Corregidor while coming in and escape being fired on. During the firing there was the best of order on the McCulloch, and no one seemed to lose his head. Chief Engineer Rlandall was overcome by a nervous shock, probably apoplectic in character, and at a few minutes after 2 o'clock he died. The orders have gone out from the flagship to proceed at a four-knot speed toward Cavite, the naval station, which is seventeenl miles away at tlle head of the bay. This will put the fleet close to tIhe Spanish squadron and the great battle will take place in the morning. Tlhe men are now stretched out everywhere on their arms trying to sleep. It is remarkable to see how little commotion is caused by the death of the chief engineer. Tlhe great dangers and thrilling events about to happen so completely overshadow the passing away of one man that the sad incident has created no stir. The body is sewed up in canvas and lies on a bier on the quarterdeck and will be buried at sea later in the day. At 5:10 in the morning, just as dawn is breaking, the battle begins. By this time the American fleet has arrived off Cavite and the brightness of the approaching day reveals to both sides the position of the enemy. The Spanish immediately begin firing, but at a distance of nearly four miles. At the sound of the BEGINNING OF first shot the Olympia wheels and starts straight for MORNING BATTIE. the enemy. From every mast and every peak of the American squadron floats a flag, and the sight of all these fluttering emblems arouses an enthusiasm that never was experienced before. As the Olympia steams over toward the Spacnish the Baltimore, Raleigh, ,8 DEIIT'Ei AND THE BAT7I ()1' ALiNtL,4 PIAY. Petrel, Concord and IBoston follow ini linle (.f lmfattle. The M1Cl(locl(1 is left to protect the tranlsl)orts. Tlhrough the ldimnless of the early llorning light tle Spaliiish vessels canl hardly be seen, but as minute after llinute plasses the shilps and for'tificatiIons becomlie (iore d(istinct. The Span)isl are eetilc'ill the adlvances of lthe sq(iildroill with continullos l iring fro(ll t.e sllil)s alild the forts. So far there have been no answering shots fromIll tle A eric'll shiips. They are stea, ming on, grim and delermined, and makillg directly for the Spanish pJosition. At 5:2:: t:le 1()ly lpia tired I he first slhot, and at 5>:t() the firing became incessant. A battery at thl e t iole, inl Manila,:lnd it rly lfive liles to the east, has inow begunl firing, and tlhe IBostoon is occupied witlI shelling a fort on the llainlalnd beyolndl thle arsenal of (Cavite. 11The leill Cristilna, lwichl is the Stp)anish t faigshlip, shows 1up bIlacIk an ti fircei in front of tlhe enemy's fleet. Tlie C( astilla is nearly al).rea;slt of 11lher 1and is protected by large barges, whiclh makes it illpossible for se1hlls to penetrate below the water line. The )on Antonio Ide lioa is a little behind the other two vessels. Froln Bkor bay, the naval anhlor.ae, cones the fire fromll tlhe Do)(n Juan de Austria, a, cruiser; tle Islat 1de Luzon and Isla de (Cuba,1 protectted (cuise'rs, ani1- d the Mlrq(ues del DIuc)ro, Gen. Lezo, El Corre() ant Velasco. Trlrse laltter v(essels st;e:an baclk aind forth fromn the l)rotection of thle walls of tlie arsenal. ( tlter smaller' vessels, evidently torpedlo boats, can be seen occasionally coninig into view and then retreating behind thle arsenal. The American fleet now fornms in a. line, and, st(eaming in a wide circle, pours shells fronm tlle port and. bow guns as thle vessels Iss. Then the ships swing around, and, continuing in the long ellipse, tirnI loose the guns of tle stern 1and tlhe starboard side. In this way all tlie guns on both sides of thel warships are kept in action part of this time and the vessels are constantly moving. The fleet makes three complete circ(les, each time going, in to shorter range, until a rlange of about 1,50() yards is reached. There are numberless exhibitions of daring shown by the Spanish. At one time the Reina Cristina alone steamed out at full speed in the very face of the combined American fleet with the intention of running DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 69 the O)lynipia down. All the Ailerician vessels concentrated their guns on her and poured a perfect rain of shell through an(d around her. Still she camne on. As she approached nearer the terrible storm of projectiles becatnme too() severe atlll realizing that the ship would ble annihilated, the Adlmiral swunlg her slowly a1rol11nd alnd statrted( for tlthe protectionll f the navy yar(l. Just at 1tlis nioit(ent.an eitgilt-incl shell from{I the Olymlpia struck thle Reilna (ristmina in thle, stern and went riglmt throo-ugh her. In a few inuI11les. (1(us of white simoke. were seen coing frot the shiIp. Thel vewssel was bleing lpoundedl to ldeatli by the shells. Ier whole insifde seemed afire, but still sie kept on throwing sllells. It seemed for a while thiatl she lmust go dw)(1 1, or tlIhat th-e Spanislh flag must be lowered, but at; the very end t1hroliglh th le smoke tlhei pennantt waved b)ravely from her mflain peak, 11nd slhe (col ninued tof belch fortlh flashes *of flame andli billows (of smioke. Next two little torpledo) boaIts sttart{ed out in a (lesperate attempt to torpe'do the Olynmpia. They calme on rapidly, exposedl to the fire of the Allerican sllips, andl stopped to wait for the advancing Olympia. At tlis time the excitement on board BRAVE ASSAULTS ON THIE theI flagshlip was the greatest during any part of tle OLYMPIA Iengagement. The ()lympia. kept steaming on until within eight hundred yar(ls of the torpedo boats and then, as tle latter showed no signs of retreating, the flacgship stopped and signaled the fleet to (concentrate tlheir fire on those little terrors. Tlhe hail of shell was fearful. Finally they turned and retreated. At this moment a large shell struck one of themn, and it was seen to dive headlong into the sea, entirely disappearing from view. The other sucteeled in regaining cover. A little while later when the American fleet is at the farthest point in its circle of evolution, a gunboat slips out from the Spanish strongholfd and starts for the Mc(ullochl, hoping evidently by this bold move to destroy the transports. As soon as this move is seen by Admiral Dewey the fire is immediately directed on the gunboat, and it returns to a safer place. During the battle there are times when the American vessels pass between the Spanish forces and the McCulloch. This vessel protecting the transports lies about two miles from the fort and the Spanish ships. '70 )iI'EVIY AND Tl' TA iLATTLEI (O)F MALNIA.BHAY. At te tiie s tille tlle ci 'Iul(llc10(l) is in direct range of tle enemy's fire. Shots sereamn tliroluh'l tlHie ri'gging alnd fall into th-le water ll around her. One shot strikes alboult fortlv feet in fronlt of he11r bow. Durinit all this fearfull cannonalding Adl tiral IDewey witl Flag (pt allaii LlIlbertoI silan(ls oIl tle brid(lge o(l the )ilot house, a.)solutely exIposed, whlile tHlie OlypiNapm goe's throlugl thle stiormi of sliells comingl from thle Span!ishl ships. Now there are two vessels burnino, the lheina (Cristinm adl thlie (astilla, aelthough bot il hallve thleir flags flyillg. Tlef tirillg tflroll thllese slips seems to be decreasillo but whlenever tlie lhope arises tlihat tlhey are coimplet:ely disabled t-ley seem to ren'ew it withl greater( vigor. Tt is impol-ssible to d(leterlilne what dam(iIage is being done to eitller side. Th'lpere seems to be nIo great destructiol amonig the Amlierican vessels, for each timne they revolve (o t1 t th;tt eadly e 1 lipse t1hel vessels all show 1 up witil flying (colors atnd i(linillislied lire. 'leThree times thlley 1t;llmake the dleadly rou)nd, )passiln live\ tilnes befo(re tle SIpanish f((:ces, e.ach1l ime drawing in closer ad 1 closer. Now tlhe Olymp)ia hlas etlased tirlillong lll it is said her after tilrret is (l 1:amaged. S le w;ithldrlaws 11and is followed bl I v e res( rst o(f t the s(Il droL. The Spanish keep on iriing with almost as muclh vigor as ever. Iv t is now 7:45 o'clock, and lie fighlt lias laste( two a1d ( a hal f A MOMENT 0. OA GMOM0ENT hours. During all this timlle hliere lias been ilncesstat OF GjiLOOM TO TIE AMERICANS. fitlli I(] t-le wlole sky is hazy witll smoke. The tremendlius resistance andn striking, (olrageli( of lthe Slpainish is a reivelaltion. A f(eeling of )profound glooml come"s over us as lte American fleet wit-ldraws for co:sulsltation. HI(ow 11ui(I (lainage hlas been done is yet iunklownt and wlhetller their {ldecls are swilllig in blood a1nd t1(hir cakbins clioked witlh tlie wound(ed ani(d diead and11 Ileir guns battered arle tlhings tlhat ('annlot be (determli(ned ulntil tlle c(mnmanders return froml tlie colnflerenc(e. Thlenl there cot1Ies a long wait. At last, after feverish anxiety, thle marvelous news conies that not a single life lIas been lost and not a single man is seriously hurt. Not a single boat is badly injlred and hardly a scrap of rigging is cut tlhrolugh. At 10:45 o'clock, after a conf'erece of tle1 con11ilanding-( o(ffit(cers, it is decided to attack again. The object in withdrawing, it transpires, DEIWEY AND) ITI.1E BATTLE OF MANILA Bz Y. 71. was to allow the snioke' -to clear away and to enablel the A dlliiral to dletermlilne whlt (1danage had lbeeI ( di(e to t tle( fleet. WVlhen tle astollndliing rtepo'rt ctamle tlihat tIhere wvere no lives lost a n11(1 1o vessels dalnage(dl tllh entll1hsilasmn on the (lifferenlt shipis was vwonderful, andl ringing che(1(sl ran- tIllNtr loimt touo the fleet. Thei Baltilllir(e Io1w lheaded for (1avite, rushini g on at- full speed, a(nd (lid not. stlop until almlost ill th]l(e shadow o()f thel( forts. Then s1e be(ran to lire w it her lbig;11ns, mowing mai I sts avway anll tearilng holes ill {,v('~'vtll i itl,, in si,,'l~I. in everythillng in sight. 'lThe l( O)lymipia followed and joined in the bombard-n - Iient. T'11 little l'etrel caetiie{ clo)se behi nid, then the (Concord, and li:st tlhe aleigh a'lid P>)os'ton. Thei firing was in:cessant. TI e Spa Iniirtlds aniswered vig rously and tl e dull, nluffled tlhun(der of the ctiannon caame withl. the regularity of drumll beats. '1The n-avall stltiol n was full of burning vessels. The Span isl flag still IIlo (ted from the( fortl, but the Spanish tirin'g' alt noon had neiarly ceased. The'lI, 'eina Cristima was red witlh flames and tlhere was an explosion on 1er tallt nllst hav1e b)ee11 caused by) tlhe tfire realchingl, one of lher anmmunit'ion magazines, leaving herl almost a c(oml)lef te wreck. At 12:5 t1(e Alllcricanls ceasell firin,:nd fo~ fifteen minutes the bay wals almost. siilent. It wav-s believed tlhat the battle waNs over, al It Ii]ough one Spanish flagl l,' was still flying above 'a sm1all fortificaltion. 'The altimore, whiclh had (lone uc1(h vnali.ant work during the last (action, slp)eatdl fortl t.li largesl flaL ill tlIe service. ('rders were nmow selit out to eniter the small bay back ()f the arsenal in (Cavite 1 and finish t1he work. The little Petrel, whlose galllant,cntidluct in ithe face o.(f all l)tose lbi','uls thalt blaze{d awayv at her (diuring' il lo, hours of flying havoc, was so nota- GXALLAN WORK OF THIIE ble, steamed bravely on towardls the very heart of thl TI: Sp1anish stroiighold, occasionally spiittin forth a shell as she went. At 12:-45 it was signalled fromi shorei thlat the Spanish hadl surlrelldered. Then tethere was greatt clherinig oil tlhe victorious ships. The rigin1 was 111 1ann1]ed, banltners flutterel(, and every man's face sl1howed t1e joy andO exultation tlia.t 1he felt. Duris181 s pri(linillo f (f applallse d(illilng t1esit delivervl. Thle Vget - r1 ll ws8 os t lt pr(l selt 1t t11 tinle41. It. N8ws, iot (colsidlered t1 ise to Sexi)ose hill to t1he possibilitvy, of beil(, 1 ssas88sin.It(ed, a11(d so) 11e ' l rel i lls e(ql i i l 'll(' S itl('. ('IlIrS I I il N 'S( IIN' (I' ' 11' Ios>1 olI aII American armyitv (1ice)r, who is n1ow ill <|OV EIM 11ZNTEI. '4'l;'f1;fl~-; 1( (,r tl';1I111 iltlIlfb 4l111(41 \Il l 1 1 I O (IiZEI1. comia1id (f t1we (o(nance of I le insmirigentl forces, wiiia rexi x 1 tf,II. l I,, ' 1 i )I, 1 ~, t'( ) I1,! Ii- l iI it t 11.\ l (reeted w'Al ith le '1(r(atest enth111s5ias1. lIe \\-was bor1e aloft on the shoul dePs of delmlostrial-tive at1181ives, and on aIc11C(ount of4 his 11a1tionality was taikll to smbllbolize tlie (4O- o)pe rtiin 4, tlil tnit l Statls ie l t11 l oew" m1toveme(iit (l f ilnde)pendence. Mal ia1n1 It(o Trias was electe( 1 CJ (ic-pl1 esdenti, anld II inlro Aui Is 'll('1( dee 'llilin s lister of finlane. I)a - iel P'ir lo was mdtlle lit ilistelr of war. D)uringil thie forenooll Geller Al: i: 1(.(held (I,18 reception at (1Cavite to tie d(elegates of the pl-lrovi1ces a1I1d1 t1o prolliiiient ()1fiers of hlis army. Tilhe in11su11et11t ()pl(eti0ons1 wer-e still l)(eil c arlied1 onl wit14 tlhe '-(lreates1t- virO 141d,I \ vaii i lln v;ried successs. Sa 1i Fern1ando a(,ll1 Macta(1)ebe, ill Pa1i)a118a5s plrovilnce, wlas clptllredI afte (r a laong a1ld ob)st inlate resistl(e. ( I eneral Ricanrd( Moel, o(I4 (4 t 1 est lfighters oi. tlhe Spailislh side, was Lilled. Fortv o1('ficers1 -8lld s4o(li(e's of hllis force vwere a1ls killied ( Ind bet weenl 1,(00 ad4 1,)OO) (c1l 11pied. Tle(e ilislurgel n lt l1ss was less a8lld was 1)t 1rivenl oul it Ao't Alin18(1's lhel1adquliatetxs. The wife: T111 c1 ilfd(l(e f ('Ieiler('l i1-oel t W(elf (, ll r prisoll(erl. \ 'I'lis ldeisive li'rlit resulted ill thliae 8bs(it overto 1 ) o all tei S Spanisli f orce in 1it(a plTvillce (1lld its (oIlple'(te aclisiti0o (1r tlin i inls l!turl ents. The0 subject ion o(f I lte Spaniairds in l 11P11)8pligaas pov(ince took 1arl8 thivlree WOeels of Ilard h1''lit1ill. Thi isllsllr'enits liunder com(01nllill1d (f Maxilnlo Ilissonll defeated the Spanish forces ait AnIlgreles and Blacolor 8(d fill s181 V 11 ulnded the(il ill tlie -t\() townils o(f Sat- F ri'0V11814()o 81ll1 MaIc(aba8b1)e8. Thle l1tter place (0as 8assailed 1( 8) vigorously 118 t h le f(orce ttaclel atltempilted 1t) joinl tie 4t lherl forlce ill 8141 FIeral1()do. The decisive b1attle took place on Wednesday,, tlhe I-51!, 4)11 t11e 1r(oad bet ween 11these two ilaces. The wife i1nd fi-(ve chil(dren of G(overnor-Oeeral Aurusti were captured 1el08r MA-cablaebCe. The is1u11sIrents felt tl8t iuiinder the cir cuitstlances there would le SOt AXl)/1l'1li') 1 / 1) '111 /7'. /111 () 1' 1 I /IA 1 / I P,)'. (cessati(on (f Spanlish cruelty to( insurogenlt plisoinerts of wvar. (xoverli 1 -telieral \ llA st o i (oilld li esitate l t inflallli Ie the Filipinosll(S )by 111111'('essari crell ltv so lokil als the i fate orf is hi. vife and c ildreni rests wvitih tie insur(ent', lewader. (leneral Ai inaldo sa(lid ilhat t le kindest tre atl ient, would bllie )l(rded(l ti'hese plrisonesl, 1land just ilfied is 1,'elf iii detallninlg them blyt teil thlolught. t;hat tlhe Spalliailrds wvill be Im re e ll(lrc(ifull to( Iilipin os pisoIelrs hiereafer. l Ie aIld seIt voI (II Io I ore tiaI oII e Ic(c - sitn011 tht 11 wonIld kill oa Spanish officer fol eve'ry instlnrgeVt l1prisoner xeciuted i( y thlre Spa lialrds in ManIilial, uilt It is tlI rea I lt1Is n, ot bee' l effectiive. Syplllath1izers withIt t11( rebels have been e(ec'uted ill Manilila wti s h]ardIlv any prtmoca l(ti. The u111ce (of...%Agivelo, on of A1oli1i(ldo's staft, was sh1t ini Ton(do a(ln (as l co1sequenc(l e the feeli n; far ainst; tIi ( Spal nirdst iwas very bittel at (1i i itsi (ur itl. li1l(d 1c l tities. On tlie evelninig orf Itne ) tlie isurueilns sc11 ceeded( inll thakil" somtie twre e n(e', Ile11( alate. 1llis plsit iolll w ts asslai led1 for several (ays,: Ind fas it, (10111 ia tls li e a lh a l lllpO:rl(d ind es at e1p folt:s. tlewas of (v^eat itmlporta(nce'. It, was ( 1,VIe oti tlChat. all ille inisultrl Ie t fol c o1Ildl a t Ita k TIla(od,. sub11) 1f Iatila, l iie samie d(18\ woIl( Wisldt be mept bin t,00 Spanish troopl)S. T'llis ('eng1a1ement wvas nlot foought. General Ar uinaldo remioved his hleadpuartll ers from ll where he first established(1 t 1hei to larger an d 111ore co(1111(lodi)1s ones. The 11 buildlillg he fnow occupellic asiiniis waf: tslh' oici fv tl esidelnce f if lthle gov( of avite. Iit is a becatn iful pt1lac(, witl hi an imle tlns-e courllt arl. \hien (le go1veIrnor occupied it Agnuinaldo wvas en11aed in a 1bus)18lwhackin warfare againXist1 Spain ont111 in tlie conidtrv bhack of ( avite. The conlditions were now l reversed. ''The ( novernor, Brigadier-( enera1 l s, was a. prisoner 1vonly a few doors from where thie insurgent healdq(l arters are, while the formlter rebel leatder sitS ill tilie (overllnor's ptalace, i'surl'ounded by his staff 1and1 followers. The -goveior-geeral aIt Manilat relfused to treat wAit i Agjinaldo ill aDiv WOy Or ack11(-owle(,dge( his le(adershiip o()f tlie instrgenls. An11 instalIce of his pride and haut1111 Ighti (ess was shownI. Ie wish ed A(GUINA II) to have the1 wounded Spaniards illn ( avitl e removed ANI) THE SAANISH to MAn,111lta, 1nt li (i( not^ wish to be put in Ile posit (ion of askig a fIvorI of Aginfald()o. So lie rof the B11 it ish consul a11t Manila to miiiake tIe reqluest in h11is ownl )/It '.\ X 'I) \ '11//1 /;71i/ Ti 1 ()L' i /..\/IL 1 i?.. S1 nae:11{(',:11, andI sent1 threle('l-.111<4}( 1 11s( I on I I( I t 1 ('a c SS fl;.1:lll4l \\wi 11 tlhis (11de1 t1 O ( t vile. IJAvwo st (1ll 1:11111 ches( tl(wi iL w() cr1es (ame f11(o Ma ali1 1(to Cavite. The Spanlisli doc(tols ill c(lih-re of I' le 111ission1 weve )Doi J11a11 Domniiues.ml(rjtN, D oI Jose BaeI Illa 111a;4 nd I on) L I I sLedesilma. The'lir crews, w1''e Spmlishi, -lld(l i:ll ive(eIr1(o iIII 1 (eflsii I o,' t ive te 1iI il 11 issiol 1: i (lt i'il1 (1,l ir8l cte r. I I, tinally agreed, Iowxtevr, aifter a. long (lisclissionl, to sd 14 1lie wXoldiledl S1paniards barges a 111(1 prepla'at ionls11 were made 1( ]ret io to etl 1to Mail a. It vwas tlhein disovered(l tllt:. all 1 Spafllishl ll adl:ltivse cews I1:t1 leserl'l, plrolb8l14 v with thle iIIltet II i()o of ji i11I11 t1 he iIIsSIIe, 1 IIts. T IIey l1 1a(1 1I( eiloughl o4f Manila, for itl(e stilfl eingl ii t lle citv liad lbecm(le extremle since tlhe rebels l1ad slrr1 louded Il ti e ci tV. I 1Ie Spans11 d(0tors8 were ol (liged to( ret11 1(4 Maila. witllhoit theil (c1ews. It waVs futlewl 1ioticedl tIlIlt ollv lie mlliost d(esperatl ely wounlded were a1llow-ed to be( tlakell, lld tlhosef -\ho l ave \ prm'iset (o1l 11 eat \ \\leioverv wer held] ill C('avite. O()II Jlllne!9 lie (gov'erlnr t' (l Htl s wlas captled. At -lt'he sameIr tilllm (o4lol 8la( deS a1d1 e c1( o ldant, 1)a) ffic1ers and( 00 soldiers laid dowil their 8111arms t-o lie Filipinos. This surrenider is re8ieiarkaIble froml ) tle fact 111hat; (ilvy 240 ilnsur'gents, d11(1e C.olonel E'Illtt'lri Maltai siga II, et IectI ed I Ihe c(8a11 ture. ThIree n11 11t ( red a (l11 tiVtiy-nine of th-Iese 1p4s18iso1es were tals18r)(ted(1 to C avite (oi11 ie rebel sti1eames11 1uu1111sa1 11(d1 Fnal eeNl o.i nl1 Paivipana tilhe're was', i i. 'oo( l (1lt (i l i(,llti'. I iThe Sipnliish foirele( of,0()o men avs ir(i ven fr(m11 An Ieeles a1d( IHl(1o1, I1nd retreated(1 ) San11 ' Feiai 11(1() 41(1d M(AInc(8b)ae1be. \When H(vl let V Jel c1l( 41 they( 1 burned( tfie -town. At Aiig'(eles Itie Splaniar( plla(cel womilel and small children il flront of I heir pranks 14 revenlt. tlie i lsiutrgeliits lill ( oII theill, bullt t hey weA(re eveitillaliv 1Y(4t1 (ed. 1li all tio s en(4I111t 1is l1 ti is dist I ict there hiave been ionly 200 118e1111n 'tits ell-ared(. I'lte toI m (mander (f tlls force is Colonel Maxinio lisson. Aceiord1in to (eIeral1 A\ninaldoI s statelmenIt (on June111 14 there were s2 DEIV+.X/) Tfll, I&T1.II OF 0 A1 \ 1 I.VIi PAY. (,)(),00 iisulr(elts u111(1ne hiis,(1cmnl(and1. Of tisi 11111('1 (n,0(0() ('''e al'1(1ed with rifles til(dl 00( withi mall 't(es. Nearlvy,0)00 w(ere in till nl'iilbor11ood,( of Manila, (anld 4all Il)1 fil tii l as ols ('i1(' l o t at I) t1 pl ointr. IThl city V Was p'a!ctica lly surrIIonlll(l, t and very little, if an1y, fool was en1ttingu thrilloll ihe raiks a8111d reta(l(lillg tihe I)(el-)jl ill Manila. Tle insiirgnlts' f{', orc: ar'o I Mial n 1d ila ad t11' tlalproaI''ll's 1t it n1111n1)ered1 lIeal'ly, 4,000 iliien. Sucth we're 1th-1( c(lnitiolls whlich led 1ip) to tle tille of tilhe Iarrivall of the 'arlily Of (oc(l)pation bl t- lie Ir()l)psllis lichll stliled(l from S.an Fr1ancisc(, blriging tlhe en1 who were( to do 1the land liglting, nd tlake the citilv f Manila. CHAPTEIR V. GENERAL MERRITT AND THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. Appointment of a Commander for the Expedition to the Philippines-Conditions in the Blockading Fleet While Awaiting the Army-Germany Sends a Strong Squadron-Arrival of the Transports-American Soldiers in Cavite-Spanish and Americans in Night Battle Near Malate-Demand for the Surrender of Manila-Reply of the Captain-General-Beginning the Battle-Brave Deeds of Our Soldiers-Surrender of the City-The Insurgents-General Merritt's Report. ITIl little delay after tile recfipt of news of Admiral I)ewey's \ /1,V victory, Major-(leneral Wesley Merritt was app)oilted to the commandl( of the mnilitary expedlition to the Philippines. San Frainlcisco was chosen as tlhe place of rendezvous and departure for tlhe forces to be sent awcross tlie Pa-cific (ceanl. General Merritt desired that as large a part as )possible of his force be made up of regulars, as it was known tlat thle Spaniish soldiers in tlie Philippines were the pick of the Castilian army. Neverltheless, the need of picked men of our regiments for the Cuban campaign was equally ilmperative, so in the end, volunteers preldominated amiong those wll wo ere sent to San Francisco. In the city by tlhe Golden Gate thousands of men gathered during May and June, encamping in tlie beautiful military reservation known as tlhe Presidio, Twhere they were drilled energetically and instructed in atll details possible of the service that was to be required of theIm. Most of the volunteers assigned to the Pliilippine expedition were those in tlie regiments from the western states, in order to shorten the railway journey necessary to bring them to the port of embarkation. The Pacific ports were ransacked by quarternmasters-general in order to find transports for the long voyage; but at last all preparations were complete andl the expeditions began to sail to the support of Dewey. 83 S I 7 //1i i'-I" tt,.N1 (.',. (S)(I.'C:' t'.q 7''l/(:\ ()/;:l/1T-ON/1A 1LA.1 \\W hile I( w 11iti1i II, Ol e tllhe arll y to r'a'11h MallilaI, t wo, tlp01)i(s I ls)0l)'t1d all curitsiv a1 d ()i the Amellltrican ships. (ne v was the arrival ol tle (Charlestlon and the troompSipJs fromll San Francisco, the othler the grad (ial coI IceItr 1t1 o0 of a pw I e flll ( erman 11 fleet. il Manila btay. Seve n ( eI'n1 I w11 rslipsli s ollt of eigllt that (xera ilny T, ONI h asOlias in tlhe flar east were' tlthere, with l \ice-Admiral Von THE BL1OCKAA dli i e STATIWX. Diederich, who) comm'tland's, dS the Asiatic squa1drlon. The Sillitilgnificace of tiis tdetlollnstrat ion created L a ' ood deal ()f sIpecu'lation 1 an11d c(ncern. Wl'en it ilt is considered that l( 1y, Anria1 anId l Prtul al al, ye (l thelir (expressions (If 1neutrality to an alar1ii611ig limit, the mInassing of Ge1a1 ships ait this (critical tine was regarded as being signiical t. According to Il 1111 lwrittell law (of initernational courtesy it is uIIs;,Ial for 111(moe t1I1a 1 W() )1 t11hree s11ips (f a foreiign )Wer( to-() gather in blockad d pl )rll-t. 1 11ern 11 interests in Man ila are no t so xteinsiv ass to reuire l Ii'a reat4 f 1(or to p)otect t lhen. It was equally ilmprob)able t halt tlhe G{erlnans were Ithere m erelv t)o witlness thel last a ct of Admiral D )ewev's brillianfi tracgedv. he tiitweory (If curiosityv col)Id hardly uiistvify t hem inll leaving Kiou-( Choi at a time' wheIlI tilte Rlussian and( Elnglish relaltions are so strai.ned. \Vice-Admiral Von )iederichs saidl ((e-11illliVy Wa1S making' a d(lemllstration here in Manila. bay for thle p1)lurlse (f benefiting -the itradle relations between Manilta and Itis o>wn1 c()uitry. The exact connectlionl between cause and effect in this instance' is soiewlhat obscure. The Spainiards in Manila, acc(ordi-1ng to the I)iario {de( Manila, looked (ln the (lernlans as bein their friends an-d syll)athizers, andI the advent of (er1man's llee(t 8 enctrageeni(t to Spanllish interests. ThIe (Gler111Ilans su1t-'ed tlhe Spalishl flag ()I S'evera'l o1 ccasio1ns after' Admiral I )ewy exst 1:lbliSlled his blockade. This was e(itlher an evidence of tfriendliness te Spain (I' an exhllibtilon of great. indifferenlice to propriety, for all foreig'n ships in a. blockaded ploIrl are a llowedl to )('Itel' and remlain throiugh tile sufferaince and (courtesyv (ot the adilniral commanding, tlhe blockad'(in)g fleet. Ne(itlher t1l1e El:lg-lisli 11' Frenc('h saluited tli'e Spanish 1ag, and o(nly i l one insltalicell tdid {1 Jatpan(ese, salute it. T1ie sto-ry v f a day in a blockaded lport is aln interesting, one. Sometimie's it ra11v beco'mie (11111 1lld molnotolnous, but there always exists thie STREET IN NATIVE QUARTER OF ILOILO The group of cocoalut palms at the right, with the pectliar ox-carts beneath themI adl of native ohiidren on the leift stamding by the e wperhc props their h aise, are striking features of this Philip pins tantdscape. IN THE SUBURBS OF ILOILO PHILIPPINE ISLANDS ' winding village street Iere pictured is characteristic of many in th East Indian Is and The ga |a t tote cemetery antears ist beyond a hon1se OXr r lft, NATIE HARPIST OF THE PHILPPINES NEGRITOS IN THE ISLAND OF LUZON itilo Fftrlinial,6 Cal, to ittell~eiv Musicali~l 1X1 their tasltes, flatl tile harp~it is olle Thl~ese are types of tile abjoriginal silv,,es of tile Philipines, sh1ich o-f thlei ftwe6 iIIit, l<.t lxltx1<}-af b>eo-ilg esxiirt with] ((t il tli e ( ve( iIt, I ttIlIer I])(' w IIitii^. All (Idrililig ll 114 hI lv wok() is s11s1)eIldled ill the lleitl(lle ()oI t lie (lay 0( 1 81('(4)11t1 f t1 ' li( lieat. 11(xv('erv(, tlie wveat l' lhas nott een d)( isalgreeably wa1liii (1111irinlg tihe last tov() weeks, 11but tfile exertiol of cfarrivin:g heavy Sjlpriitnfields ad dill accntes 11 1 dwo4'i'ItIc'ltt AO1 uld be vev Irvin(1 on men who a1e io1t ('tequipped14(1 with t light 10tr(pical utnifotrm'is. A liuIndued IllOr more tenlts 'Ialve beel,1 1') 1 111)t )I 1 (ie sid(le of the I)(l';l'e,lrotllnd to d11ry alnd clear,: (ilt I ihe I IIust. E vertvi hing becoiltes itustv 8 1141 li ildewed here ill a ay1,r I a v, ld11(1 clillles l1111st be ('()conslltllv tlir'edl to prevenI''t 1heir spo)ili)ng." T'l'e ilrst ('las11 o,f arills bletweeVl '1 Spanliisli a11l AIlllerictan landl forc)es il t lle IlPhilippines resulttled inll tlhe killing of t-len Americanls and(1 t-he woudiig li 1f fort-yN-three. The 8)panish s5s wt8as 1t ktli(NoIl. 'I'The co(IIflict l(curred la te iln the 1ni1ht, of July 3.3. ft was; tihe result o-f a reputed efl frt oil the plart of the enemy vto 1 ait k the Almerican relcll(es neal' Mallate, l '1an effiot whii(ch failed, if, in- FIRST i",..,. '~,~ /,. ~ LANI) FIHTING e(1(ld, it was ('Ve' iti s ltnIdel. The(' thlitl was a vlicio118 AT MAlIAlT oIie-, but tlie menll who weIre hlavingl th lleir bapltisll of tile never tlii(ncell(]. li(ey slhowed (le stufl of which they were tmade, a5s truly Vs ts ty id (two w( eeks later wlhen Manilat was l le objective l)(pin:t. Whenll( fiallv tle.11en (uf thle Ihr(ee fleets (r) Ioopsllips we(re dise1nbarllked a1ld1 l)laI('( (ln p)siti(nli, ((ene(ral MAlerri t (' calcull(ed that tle( time(e 11Id( (c1le fo fr inal lactilon. Il(e hlad aloit S,>00 men1( illn )position to atta('k tll(e ity (f Manila. i14' and \ldmirall D)(we( unlit(led in a j(int lettel' t) itlie Slpaishl (co)llllllmn(l(l'-il-('li ief, u11(1l('r ( f;lt( of August 7, n4tifvinll himlil that o)pera:iolls tlii(h t be('il alt tllv time(' after fortv-ei(hrl hiourls, or <)2 l2I '/I1 i' I 'IW('.I.i. ( ) C'(.' I 1. I I( ) i\A () /' i 1 I v \ 4 I I. S o(( leri if aiiidte ]i(nect 'ssaiv b1y,I.,ttlil ('! () II o his part)t', an1d( tIhat aIll 14)11 -co0aIIIl)Bats mii'li tt it lcore fib lbe reli moved1ro toml the city. III replvijf,., G()X l -(eln.;l ( audenes s * aid in ptart: 'As your 1notice is sent 1 f the puriose of piovidi g ftor I the safet of oi-com( -,1t1t s 8, 1 i 1e thte 3iS fu t1.I i l'X 1 c l ( i c i I.x l 1e11 l1 1 11('x seit nti in( c i t 'yol i have s 11i\l, ll i stl t, st ait t liti ii' 11111 i -Sl S111' )lllu(l el by insurrectionalit \ forces, I a l it lionit pli'ces of relfuie t o t'lie inclreased Ilnlill - ber (of woii ilnded, sick, woeni1i a111(1d children w11ho are 1iow lod''edl withint tlle' walls." Tw() ahs later a second leltter was sent Ito iie aI t (, i) ii-gesneral by Admiral D)ewey amnd i enen ra IMel It, reae dini as follows: "The (ovel eri() r-(el(nller and (a Itai-IIeI -leller Itf t lie Jiii l pil ies. women, and chil dren, i i I i e l1t th i t I e oes our, du tiy to re1duc1 It he NMFl CAir^S Idefensells (t hie Availed tiowul in which l e t'are oat IIW'lMl:, ) (,l'(.edl, will, we fe(e1: 1,'l,4sled, ppe))(ai succe',ssfulylI ( tI il( MsanTIaN/IdFt. si, iiympathiies ot genlleral crapable (11f m(1 iakiig thlie let e. - miined 1 anid pr)olon I II(ed re sist aniice which (I 'Yo l exce(ltlec\ has e'xhibie('d after the loss of voni, iavali' f rces aid wit out holpe of sUccO r. We t herefore su Il) it, wi tiout prejudice ) lthe hi h sentiments of oiio adlil d(ty whlich-li o11r xelle tertainis, thatl, slsuro]liundedl (ll e(vel' Sidlt8,asoli are by a (!oSta fl8 il'I ' ii(( ~'desitg florce, w\itlii a plowefltii fleet ill youil' frolt) and deprived 4o1 all pr)oSpect f 1reinfiiorceient. aind a ssist 114e, 1 lmst '1 1useless s1tcrifice of lir fe w1 ld resullt in ilihe event. ofl a11 at tack, 81(1 thlierefore every conside-ratl io of humn'1anit v makes it. implerative, i tlt, you sloi'uld iot siubject otMil cit-y to thlle lhorrors, of a, IomiI)bardmentlf. Accordilo, AVe dxma1 ie surrender o(f lie cit-y of Man1ila anlld thlie Spanlish forces 1nudelr your c(mmiiiniandih." As th-ie lime aflp rol(cle(d 1a rkiinlg Uli e xpirtid of 4) in' fo)rty-ei'litIoi, r'espite gallt('e 1 to anlali b (b'y'1"11al Maiiritf and Admi4.ll Dewey, iefolre th i e d tcl 111' cut liuisiasiI (411 114' sliis wjas W` tIrelmend)is. Men on( ihe sick list lc'((ed to be tI1akenII off and41 t11hose w o) were t1{ fit Ifor heavy work asked ) 1) assiged( lig)ht ci l (I i-es. 1. Men who would ha Ive bee(1 hlloplelssly ill if itIie shipl waso 1) ) be coeld 11(w devel(oped1 1 wond erfuil vitalitoy a 1nd onvalescene. A Lfew I t oug ti til of1 s 0 'ot- tlheir fatrewell lettiers writenl, but th,:lreafit ajoity'i pl'paed for:a picnic. ITt- was o aiod nctd 1lit the navy 81141 a1li wxvould hI g(et u iide. headvway Wedn(4esdIav noon, Al iigust 1 II. (titm)o.iuges, a fitIds, s\vnip iS, s treams l i)EFEN'SES WE11 PIANN)EI. nl 11s{] sl'lallle'd1 pickets (1:adI to 1 e lp)assed 1)before reachi ng t lie Spanllislh linle. The t:lkliiln' (of tllhe trelllies land fort at MalalIte 1)v the Ist C(ol(orado wa s thIe Imost br illiant a nd spectaciuilalr act of tl(he d:ay, but a savage a'1111buls'caIde over at Sin ^ 'lo, 1near t blockhouse 1 4, was t 11e mos1 t ( dead(1ly, f or four men were kiilled in the Astor battery allnd 183th Minnesota anld 23d1 ilfauntry, while nearly thirty were wounded. had it not been for tlhe tlimnely advance of the1 -13th Minnesota a('1d( 23'1 artillery the Astor bal tt(erv would have been almlfost wiped omit. TIlE 1 1AME RICAN OCCJUIAi 4TION OF MANILA. 9r~ The 1mostl stiililg f(leatr l'tSs a1(out l l the c'llar llct(,i' of tlhe land t igllt o f Aug ust 13 w(,rc te a1 va( nce ( Iofll X Amel('i c(al t Irollg' the l, IlI t tiplaslso ISiable coliliry, tlie ( roi,itillr o(f tile Spa)tlliardls froim tihe trell ces tla(l the dlrivin of tlhe latte' b;ac ilnto t(he cit inl face of a hosellt-to- liousl olltsltl resistai lnce, a1( i a tll I he stai taken bly the Aewllica Is an Spaniards to pirevent thei insIi eni('lts et(ei g ie city. There p1)ba' bly was eIi'vei' a. (ase iin history 1)efore where I \)1)'two t ppoin forces co()IIbinied ()II til(,' overt lial.row of oe to mitake a co(mli i dee dclh('se( againIst a th ird. lEally iI tit he lioriling te two bri gadesl be 1 t;i ad l iIvanct e ftromlI i;l}c'Ix { II]; t a; (\ ' (fIE ' ii( 1I i i,'(1 rat 1 )11 8 ( ' )( 'll t ('l ille 111(1wilt l i ']'d a(p 111i n a v1)'ewe v. Elve'y ma caiid lations fo oe daI and wentr in flliayt I arclhi ll or(lers. The stior told by Majori ell of ten bulreau o(f information, wV]) acted Is o01 ()f ( Iienr8 ( areene's a.ids 41d d ing( the day, aives a (oo(d idea of t e 01 e i t io 1)n ()f t I ( 'Il t ( l (,t(, i a e. le men( in tlie (1camnp wereA up at 5 oclock, rIeady for tile start. General Babcock arrived from tlie Newport soon after the main body of (roops had s( (1dvanced(l fromn the c('amp, anld l'e (and lfMaj or Bell followed on 1IorsebI(ck, so011 1assing th troops. Major Bell, shellitere( by (clumps of baiiboo, crept, ip fromi tlie fartle(st Aniericani trech, wher e tle talI ait 1 Ile ry, thle 1st ( orado a nd:a bat talion of tlie 3d artillery were waiting tle order to atlt I, t,a 1a (II he leach to a position bC(a el 500 1 yar fro t lie foI a Ma i ate, tol o mae i re IonIssa ce rof the Spanishl iins. liwo days before he hd(l( dioe( tl i sme aind had r11(1 o - portcd that one of the Spanish gulls had bceen removed. On this latter Ieco108issance it was his oibject to detleruin me where that uoun had been Or1ders were thelln iveln for fourl comInilllies of tlhe 1st Cdolorado to be-in a 8ll (1vance. Two compiallties, (C ald 1), w-ere sent out in front of tle t-ellencies, and two otiels, T1 and K, were seit along thle beach ndlelr cover of tlhet fire of (coi)aiie(s C and ). CAs C and ) took thleir p)laces out in a slkirmishl line in front of tIi(e t-rench, T and K, (advancing f(rom)l thle rear of tlie tlrenlch'es, proceeded along' in the surf at tlhe bea(ch, wadiig all interveniing streami alnd boldlv entering tlhe fort. Companies C and D fell inll behind; RA('M then c'ame the 2d battalion of the 1st California, un1der SPANISH FLAG. XColonel SmiithI and(1 MaIjor Sime, who were in reserve behind the firiniLr line, but who a(dlvance(d directly behind the Colorado iH 71 1t11, Il1'C-l OCC[ '. ()( 'A' 1l l I M IANILA. t'roops. Aajor l ell wvas ahe'ad of thet ( 'olo(ado sodiers, bent o reach ingl, the fio:t first to tlake (dow the Sipanish il, l'l ut, the1 Spanlish op)elninl tire fromll their ilitlenchllenllllts, lie was called back to allo tle (Colora(os to tfire several v(lle(vs. This (o()st lli tt i li (lig, for ( (olo1el 5iC ov land Adjlii t an I (ookts, iin tlie van of t ltei trl'(oops, r(eached t e l S)panlish ]positioll, (lashed over'tl tl trei ie ll(s, foll \ towedl 1) 1 Ia ruslhiuig oIasS oI f (Co 1oradt Im'en, pluigted ilnto tihe ( f1ort and ook (1owl th1(e Spanish fla and laluled,(l pl t ll( A\meri(can. Just l ehi tlt(he I ()lrado ml() n cai, i t(lle regimelntlal band, vadig the stream aind p)aivingll their inlstruments with wvol(iderfl )erlsistel(-ce and(1 e(stioniah le hiiiro(ii. T1ri, 1)lbla ibad made thle llt of thl( e (da. 'The (,olordo troolps tIhel l(beg'an ii ad( tvalitce toward)l the city, but the 1st (California, by not sto)lpping at the folt, d 111 passedl th1e and were arrin eertv ing I bere Ihem in a rush d4 own thrioll gh MaI 11, wit ti1 Sl paitiard s,i t, l lreatl ill in lokei l order a tiring f rom tldooil Ids and vid(llwv al f1o() tIle pr otectiolt of lhouses. A heavy tir e in et t1e I st C( ) rad s a ft er pa ssin t lie f ot l l111 sn ele1 I to cmlle from tfhI marshes1I over s tot}vhe right (f( the o1(ad1. It was inll this tire that (. 1al es P1wln ix (d (cm)p1 a 1 I was killed a Il s everal others were T111e fo(il (oill)anlies (h, th st e a( l'tlit'(ilia pr (eeded( 1 )1 tl1roug'(h tlhe Calle RIeal ill aMlalite, ( ( olol(el Smithil (1d.,1o)pp11 i' g'uards at e(ver'' 1 11use, flying( the Engl1ish lag, ito prot ect it fr(mll thi1e ilisuirgents, Iwho werec scranIlli lihmg ablg il th1 wake o( t( e i ( 'aliforli.ials' victopious adlvanc(e. The, inslurgenlIts were firingl as thely ae alon'. It. Itwas liere llhat Major.Jo15s of tlhe transpslort1ation (lepartllient and liiterpreter FiiIhla v distinlullished tl hemsel ves. The i1ns111 rget f iiiig 11(ad bec( ome I ot for even tlhe Ai\erie.anls, ald(1 Mal jor Jonel s ook an American tl182, planIted himself inl tlie mliddle of tle 1oald anld with dri(awn revolver stopped theentire adlvan (ce of the insurlLent ls. (apt a)in ( )' lon or, wil a s l, l ard, a I e ' to1 1 he e v citiy walls inl the( fae of lfare - (lies (If nSpanish s01(11 an d vposted hi-mself on the Pliente Espalna, tlhe prillcipal l'idlge of tlhe citv, leading from tlhe bussiness, sectio)i to tl(:e walled cit y. Tle (Califorlianits aldvanced(l t t-lhe road leading,, around tlhe walled c ity and] intercepted the insurgents who were locking in alon t1 road frml' Sati1;a Aia. The latter we're tiring' on ti(e:retreating Spanliar(ls, ON CORREGIDOR ISLAND, ENTRANCE TO MANILA BAY E 'the little islandt ef Corregidor lteeare falmii/r to all readers of newsppers during the progress of the war iT tie Plitp)le Ir s ts Isti at the moithti Of the tr harbor of AXa.n a rade It of great inottrttnle (lurring the operations of Admiral Dee in tihose -ttets. A FREIGHT TRAIN IN THE PHILIPPINES Piiiemthods of tranpo ttion sillpevi in he isns ao here is amtple oppeetodrtu~t fr American develiopmet of this iudlustrr, A HARROW IN THE PHILIPPINES An observation of the rude agricultural methods employed iu these islauds is couvineing of the fao that even greater riches await the development of the industry by modern improved methods. 1THE AM1ERICAN OCCUIPA,41ON ()tl MANILA. 99 and the Californians came in direct line of the fire. The Spanliards were retiluriing tlie illstlrgent fiir, alldl the Atlericans were between the two forces. It. was here tllat Private 1)1n11r1() of c()olany B, Ist California, was killedl and IL. AmliIerson wou1nded. The California men held their fi(re, lIad by dloing s() avo)ided a gene1lral conflict which would have been as (lisastrolls as it woxuld 1lave been useless. The insurgent advance was stopptedl. Colonel Sliitll then advanced to the roads leading froml P'aco aind stolpped atotllher troop of insurgents who were att4IipI, ting to enlt(r t11ie wllled city. ()Oie )olll)opous insurgent in a )orgeous uniiforli aninlllced tl;hat thlley were (roi()iI LNSURGENTS on, but when Major Btell (lrevw his revolver' and tlhreat- l ETS ened to kill anly o(ne atetelmtitng to pass,, the insurgent SOM ATTENTION. officer becanme submissive ll(l lpjlite. The Americans then formed in line and f(rce(l tlhe islurglents tpl the street and into a side street. They next attemptted to get in by another street, but were forestalled. General (re~ene callle up ul(ndelr a scatter(ing fire with his staff and nme(t a Spanish official w\\ho awa ited hill at one f te gt of teat f the city. 1The general entered the city alone with tlhe Splaniards and the arrangeinents for the occupation were iialde. Over to the north of tlhe city there was hot fightilng between tle. insurigents lan the Spaniards, but the latter held them back. The Spaniards in tlhose trenches remained at their gills, resistingl tli' illnsurgenits, ultil 7 P. I. tlle following day, and were anmongI the last who gavNe iup their arms. They complained at being compelled to filgt after tlie c(ity had surrendered. General MacArthur's bri(gade was having a. hot fight over in the Singalon district. The Spatllisl (desertel their trenches at the advance of tle Americans, but retreat(ed to (dense (clumiI)s of bamboos anld ambuscaded the Americans as tlie latter adlvanced. It was in. this ambuscade that August Thollen of tlie( 2.3d infantly, Sergeants Cremins and Holmes of tlhe Astor battery a11d( Archie Patterson of tlie 13th Minnesota were killed and a great number woulnd1ed. Tlle Minnesota men, the Astor battery a1nd tlhe 23d infantry did brilliant work in this section, and their record in the fight is tlie most brilliant of the day. As MacArthur's briglade in regular order swept the Spaniards out of blockhouse No. 14 and tlit Engllisl c'em(etery, driving theni baclk, the 100 00 TIi A JlERII I(i. N.( t ' lION ()' L.iNIA. )rigade l fell in behind eneral1 ('ene's b'ioatde and entered Malate froil thlie east. The Assault as Seen from the Ocean. At 9 o'cliock slharp tlie O()lymiia's eng llies bean lto tlhrob, andl as the flaship lmoved slowly forward the, k;notted balls of bunting Ohat clu11g close to t the topiiiost ilast head andl 11 pe1( lk of a11l thle SItip)s were bro,)kein )out ad11( tlhe1 national (1ensi'1n lburst forth in all the ra;diance of new lI(l \virlill color. The Chtarl'lston, vlhicih 1,l(al been lyiving nelar Malaite for s eve ral d1 ays, steam-ed slowly over a 111 jo)ined i te sql adlron, anld a few inillltes lmore'' saw the Olyp(1lia, BaIltiimorle, Motmey, alest t on, lBost on, Pet vrel, alliLgI, MI ( Ill (I, (181 Cr180, BICtrcl(, ZafiIro aind the Kw(Nlhoibi bet'arirg off toward iMlalat. It1 wNas a itagnifticien t sight, 11(1 the big leadcoloredI 511is 11ip 111ane1verin;l for ( heir pema11i1t11ent foriiation, witli thleir' st Ieain 11g b1)anerS, nsl have flurnlished tj)pics for the Spaniards in Manila, to write home liabout. W11hen thle Olympia palssed(l the Immortlalite the band on tlie latter stmruck lup a fevw ltars of' "See, thlie (Conqiierilng Hero Comes," swiun, into) the(, swell (of "Star-Spang1lel w./11Ban1ner":ll andl tlwen bro)lk ilt o tfhe lively, intispiritin FOREIGN SlHll'S MANEUVEREIlI "El ("1)apitl11." It was grealt. As t liie Americtan shipsl left the ships in the (8avite ancm lt(orage tlie Immort alite andl Iphigeniial rot lin(ler' \wa:y, 11, ste('iligN swift lv across to th tl' Gernan and Frenchl slhiIps, tookl lup t:heir sttations dlirectly between the 1iler111111 flagship and( Ad(iiral Dewey's shlips. Tle G (l,erman admniiral as pr(mptly got lundler way,:1nd toolk a. place in line( with the Englislhmiei. It waTs only ai inicident, but the significance of t1h1e Britislh move was tremendously a; parent. At 4,000 yards tlhe order came t to (.om ience, firing wlhen ready, and at 9:35 o'clock the ()Olympia. open(ed with a six-pounder, an1d almol-st simultaneously on(, of tlle forward eight-inch guns c(rashedl and every glass was tlurned toward the t'arget. 'The( slhots fell short, dtue to a mistake in the range, whlich was caused by a miiragic effect, making the shore line appear closer. iThe order was then given to get the five-inch guns ready, andl thle range was madel for 4,200 yards. Two five-inchl guns from Ensign Taylor's battery blazed out, then one of the Stokely T /'li.11'AII('. N OC VI ' I' 1 TON ( ()' A I / I, 1J. 1 1i. Mor11.';1l, ('itl -ilct'] '\ foi a '\\I' i1111us 11(1 t l,en aiother live-inlli,l'111). 1heI came the orer to, c(as Ie III i(.I p t ( t tI I 1i 1) -)1):-. I0 (1 k -t lIe Spialia rds ha.d 1n( io t rel I'lled tlhe tir'e,:1 l( it was,uspecsl, ted( ti h t tle l y v 1'' 'e tes'rvill it fr c1os('r 1r'.1"e, 01' else, 85 i'pea'ed 'obable, Io e'se, l ite foil,ad hee desei'rted. '11The Ial:~ei,"ll I l '(1ed 1Prl (1 jOilleij l ili, tie a ig'l''s 1litagillfi ('cent bl tt ( o'l' f (quick-fir'ing five-ilch.uilis 1and le Petrel',s six-inchi g.u.ns plowing 11oles hea;ii tii lla, l id 11(w' le si;t ( f lr(')ro tlhe'ir' vlIeys I 1 2w ill whitIe cl('11 over their position. Five imiites later t' I here was allmosto incessaniii!ilril.' r1(11 1 t(i':ar111, 1(1 iall 4tI1( { Il(' S1-1,>1s(' 1l'()lil tilf'il' A ()11('\.S 1, 1l i1)11 '( ef a I<,ll/l IIowx faI111eni ilto(l a steadlv drizzle, aInd te Admi \ l l a11(14 Lieif utenant rt11 ti 1111v.lild t oi 11111i its a d lli, lel ) lle e' Ichaltig '(' ( his niaval c'ap flr' a t tl1( Iira eli g, ca p.1 At ltl o'chlock the C(l1a ao, lverl close in shore anit 1fmovilg aalong ldoil1' wonl dertll woik with tlhl little nboat, and sev l eral Spainisl 1 oe vs w(e're (ired o)11 Im aliis the vessel adva iced. A itnlltm1ber (of blullots st lck her, but 1, one was huit, and she kept p with, a steady grin ligII ouMI, f roM her Nd en f1el (I an I d l (otc ()hkiss. The lit le l1aircelo, close bellhinl(d, was pulipig her la 1l]chine gnUIS in Nwithi miagnificent] effect iv.eIo it I thl e Olie l.pia Hle liovellelntls (of thIe landi forces now le 'iamte (list iig('uishlable. Where, few Imo lents before their piositil:on was mar:1lk(ed only by the slimoke which rose ablove the trees from tlie batleie's anl volleyI firino, w 11( it waN-s plainly seen Ihat a great lumlhber (If soldliers were boldlly advtlanlcillg the open beach and stragi,lig forvdt ill tI(e heavy surf. I was 1a -allalnt sihlt to see tlie lon lineI 1 ()2 THE 2 T f IIIlIA/ (CCUlI'1A'1ON )1; IMANIL.i (1fl'4 l r l iil'w 1 I i'io is stel's ainiSt ig IIp the l eatli, o,( I nel' waist (Ideep ill l the s rf I(nd dashill:'g of8;lii' thie in)1pro'(tectled Stiil) of sa'1141 whichl lay bet wee('l them and the old foil, where the Spanish guims were (GA L4ANTY 1Y APLIANIRi expected to blaze oit, aniy millut e in tIleilr faiees. A IY S1l lOlRS. siscatterilig tire came troimn the Spanish trenvhes, a1( at I it 1:471 (eolok (ck le I troops o II the blealch st oppped andI a11s11SWeed( wvith tIhlee vollevs. Whlien t hey cossed the liittle st 'reai' labout 100) varlds in front of I ie t ior, o110llili'g 1(1'hei', lS hihs l int tlie air to keel tlhem ton i 1bein1 s,' 1ked, wit tii he regiIIiei tl Ia Ia a' id nI:tiona eI si( g i lvi. iI' bI! a'I el v at ilie fore, wi t Ii, i re''ieital a:a ld valiiantly t'(1followilg' and playingl for d(a life, there were, thoisaids )of eves watching then from lte ships I vit hi si entit, alotI I (s breath less, a nxiel v. Sl wl t hey d(Irew nearer ithe folrt, with thle Ma u1sers sljpatteeli 'll almong before theil and the band i)l!aing.ll The Adlliral said that it was he mlost gallant advance lhe lad ever seen. Th''e fl 1orad(l regi ''mental band was playing "There'll Bexl a u lot T ime 1i i tie Old Town To-nilt Junst before tl ihe, ps 're leiiepowiv.der mli'aazine there wais ai I remendois explosion and a dense co111111 of black smoke spil, ilg ip behind the fort. It was thought that a. mine concea'led il the ro1ad had( beenl explodedI. The smoke rl hun 1in I t.i air 11 it was seen that thlie explosion was followed by a tire. The fort, was now deep in siioke from ether explosions anid the Spanish firinw. As the troops advanced a long i he beach and approachied nearer the fort the army siginaled hle flteet to cease tiriii The forit was still silent. At 1:)S a siorimi of cheers broke out from the ( )Ilvmpia, for I the so(diers had passed I'he zone of fire and ( were claI-berio" over t he Spa nish tIrencheli4s a11(d swaviiing into Ilie fott. I Iar Idly a 1110)111(1e passed before the yellow 84nd 14d fiag, xvas seeni to be comiiitg dow(viI', and il tle next minutile thAe A'lerican flai was rIaised in its place. This was evidenlllv the flie agreed liponi for I'lie city v 1o surI'render, for an oider was at o(nlce given by tlie Admlniral to tlxT omr international signal,,vo yon surrender?" At 11 o'clock it was f ogttering from the forward signal ihalyards of Ilhe flagship. With thle hoisting of this signial calne a general shiftiing of twe 10sitions of the fleet, and all the vessels, with the e:xception of the Callao, C(nco(d anid Barcelo, look T1il'.I1|/ 'I/ / A.V ()'CC( ''t /(),\' (O)F I. l i/L./l 1)0:S t1heir posi tions elle 1,1 i el Il;e a ba iltt 'ri(s ofl MAa ila. I Fle Mlonlte rev ste8,alied to(: a v(ery (close ral ngel anlld wait( ed. Ev1ey,e in t ile fl eett tlhalt oud1(1 be traill(n(l ill that ilirec(ti3onl Was lpoiltl((ed on tlhe Manila Igilus. If atiy one (,f ti )S(, f tour 9.2-inc 1( I ontoia g Iuns had let loo se at least aL Iillusdred shells would (1have been hi iuched i ot in 1 1o hte in less I imie I han it takes to read about it. A 1hu1e Spalilish l ag wIas floatillg bravelv over t ihe cit v walls neal oeI oif tlile l(eaNvv bat teries ali1(1 it. did iot steem 1 t ome dlown wl vitil iIanyV particulair hasl l(. Neal;. (I vey ov Is (ia Ie v wtliig tIaat gIoI,^I Ills piie(e of bullltig a nd Ilopilg tlat1 it wolild 1 be ll, h It tl ill, bt i its plersistelt wa veriig there was certainlvy no m indictation of survurender or weakenin 1g. Tt IIe Za1iro, tl xwi Ith (a peera evil f ", ro i lached i lte Oll ymipia, and as if by a preconcerted (agreemient lie hlag!stlip signaled(1 that I.Flag LieiutelXItant BrI b 1111v wold re1 i(t. on boiard Ithe Zafiro. At 11:43 the tAdmial til't ltel b('St I 'lde 'tlII Iteet (Co l A e1, 11 t(e Belgian re1le1( lls ative whose a11111ch hiad juSt ireaeltdIc I Ie tla gshp IJI. lien tenanI I Brn I by took ilie largest Aierican fla i on the ship (and went SUIlRlENDEIE 'ittls stlaff came over from I he ZAti'ro in a pulling boat, S U 11AM). a11(1d calso went. aboard 1 tlle lancilih Truleno. A. few nminutes Liter 4the lankch siteaitied awav iowward Manila, 1,3)00 yards awa y. city. 'I'l ell follon-cltl t. 1()on- n-.lity. w 1ait. Lunch was rive(n 1 hlel f)i(cenr- a1ndl mllenl city. Soo(n alftelr 2 (o'cloc(k t1( 1(l,],,r'ia l c(11,nsu's boatl was seetn to be retn uing. Thiis seele(ndl 1( iclan t thait,IIan a1,lgreement hail not been reache(d, for tli1e presence I' T f tilhe Spanlislh c(lor's ce'rtainly dil not lookl like ca litl lat i ()n. At: 2::2/> io'lock Li{iute(1liant lBruhbv, clim!iig,' ll) t the sea laddler at the Olultipia qlatlelrdeck, called oult to t le Ad\dliral-: "Well, they've surreIdlered all right." 1)04 7('11,',T-I1/ 1,I ('. 1. (I;('(i ['IIiI- V't 1(P ()1T AF11.N i i 1.-I. 'The A(lIIrlll l Ill ickly llS answe'red, "W\\hiy ldo't they!hau,ll dl Il Id I t " l 'I 1 1 (1 o t 11;t a Is soo as I I e'r1iti,{ st oet GO)O or' T 00I Ime ] i l t IIre t o p't'c t tehem III," (, explaill Ied Lieut II t11t1It 1P i IIby. lThe Admii'al the lnl slaid: 'Vell, YoU "o ovel a.l tell eileral Mer'itt il;it I;ir,,L'1"' to an tl in '.i ' As Ithe news pi'Issed t( tt1h1 lie (it!' hll'l (i iider'd, (lise l'i'i'L f!;i's 11ninil(d 1 Id t1n(1 ' ou'liidi)ll s (cli(',s broke olt. over tie (11111 sen. A11 lithe sli.ip1s of t lI( flet ( I I ee ( cleel l iL 8 l s the 1 e s W;IIS si al-1(. At 5:.the Spiinisli 11(o iln tIhe cit v wxaIs seen slow1ly (coline down, aid l ii nill1t e te t!e oiioriiou es Ilivic tll tla a oistd i;' its 1. Just a1s tlhe lime tlt W8 wei' l, the tlfhey were taking a. -cheap means of stoIppiing iDnsurrection by br1)iig tI le l eaders. dtu f Aguinaldo indl Iiis associates close tho (onsidler it a trust 1 ) fnd o be held as a uiaranilitee of Spanilishl good faithl. Of tie promiisel llmoney,.;4 100,000 AiUiALO'iSE.lllGI SENSE Nwas 1lpaidl into a t11bank iln 1lo-ngkong A la;wsuiit soon OF LATRIOTISM. (arose betweenl A gi n111o a 1 one of h is subordilnate lchiefs allled Airtaio('1, whli(ch i.> itllr,1estill' on11 a(('ccot of 1le1 very hoii()rable posit ion t1aken Ay glluinaldo. A t ach) sued for a division of III(e money 1m11ong II lie(" insur-gOents accordi inlg to r1ank. Agiuinal((o c(laimled Itt t Ill(ie Ilmloney Nwas a. trust fundii and 111 was to) reimail 1()1 deposit until it wa:s seeSn whether the Spa)niards w)ouldl carry ot their proposed refornms, a1nd if they failedl t:o do s4) it was to be nse(l in defraying the eXl)'ellse of a new1 insurre'ction, as afterward actually was tIle( case. Tihe suit- was set tled out of court' by )pavig Artacho) 8,000. On thell 24-1t d(ay o)f A\)ril, Aguinaldl o nmet thle lUnited States consul alld ot)1(hers a-t Singaporel a1l offered to begin a new insurrection in coni jl1unctio witll tlhe oIerations of tlie United States nuavy at tManila. Tilsi, 1 ws telegr'taphled to( Admiratll Dewey and, by llis consent, or, at his 'req(1uest, \Agnuinaldl left Singalpore for l longkong nl Alpril 2;, ad, when thle M(.Culloh11(.1 wellt to llongko)ng early in May tov) carry the news of Ad(miral ){ewey's victory, it too)k A guinaldo and seventeen otiler revolutionary chiefs on lboard and brouoght hem to Manila: bay. They soon aIfte 'landed at Cavite, n1 the Admiral allowed them to take such gu1ns, anlllllunition and st]ores as lhe did n l(ot require for hi inself. With tllese aInd s()me otlierl arms whlich hle Ilad brought from )lla ngkong, Aguinaldo armled liis foll{owers, who rapidly assemblled at (a 'vite and, in a few weeks, he began mnoving against thle SIpaniards. Part of tlhemi surrendered, giving hiim more( ais, airms the others retreated t) Manila. 1 0S ( COMPIJC TI S I TI T Et 7 T E I STlIt (; L: N ''TS. So1I wt fter walr s w i slips t, wli. were e 8 Ili e p )' ropeit y of SenorI A4( mci( I lo aIId )t (her ilIs IurIeiint symvpat 111izers, were (convetled ilito( cuI1liserIs an adi4ress was issued to foreigni (roverumenlts, statiig that the rev(olutilonary government was in ope(ralion a1(l control in fifteen provinces, and that. ill reslpo(llse to thlle petition of thle du11v electedl chiefs of these proviices, recogn0111ti of belligerency a11 in(lepenlence was requested. In this addriess it wa5-s annoullncell that the revolutionary grovernment rule(l in fifteen p)rovinces and( l1a(1 tlie city of Manila besieged. Order and tran(quillity reignedl. Nine thouslandI prisoners of wvar were held by thle insurgents, and an army of 30,000 was declared to be under arms. (C'OI LIC l'41'IOXS 1117' 11 'I INS'C(,I/'I\'17S. 1 09 In t lite 1prvinlce of (Cavit;llel I Ihat liort ioll of the i rovince l of ManIila o01tsi(le (of t1he city and of its subur1)bs, wNiicl wai; s occU pied1 by the ilnsllrge.lt tllro(p]s as twell as 1those of tfie United States, tleir ililitairy for(ces, lilitll'y ]X' 1la]dqullrl(at S, lsC, t v'., very l iiil' ill evidlcelte, occupy i g tI i le pri cipa(11 l )us11e Xs a11(1 (.11111 11cic iI e very village and (ha 1let, hbt. it Ieie we(e 10,o,sigs of civil goi I() veilme t o( admii isit rat ion. It was rep(ort ed1, 1however, t t A u i inall I I(s a tigeit s were 1 e ving ta.xes or forced( cltilt ti ls it oi)y ini tllhe outlside vill:ta es, lbut (aifter tthe Almericans ( 1 entered Man ila) by I ieas of secre,'t agents, in tie n a'1ket place of the.cit v its lf. \i AI 'i11i 1 's eaIild atual trs, i1l B1 kor, tilerle were Siigns of activi t V d11(I lbulisiless, 81141 lli; c4 1.billet 0icel(s wvere il (cosltanlIt se5ssioll t erlie. Agui,'illtldo lnever liliiself ft'1iledl to 'lat i all l prerogall ives due to his fale((t(l 10psit ionll a1s th.le (d f11c)to i'11leI of t lle (co lt rv. 'Thle only geiieiral (otli(er Nvlio saw lin or 1zid any die11et cm illmIllicatiotn wIith hilm was ( eneral Anderson. I e did Ich to hw tIx( ti ls ofilicer in organizilmg a 11ntiive Nwago()i trainii 81d41 otpleowise plovidit ng for liis tri(ops, al( lie vwelit iso far, ill a letter of JVll 23, A(xl NALlt) A N i) TH i E as to 1 1walil (1eeral A 1\dlersol not to land Alli'ric.a 1 AMERI('AN ARIMY. trloo)ps (n lhliilpine ' s;il witlhout liis conlsent —a 114)tice whic, it is lhardflv lece.ssayv to say, was ignored. The day before Ithe attack ()on Mantilia 1he se(lt staff ffiicers to, tle s1ame general, asking for t le A\llel'ric(an 1)plas (f ltt:(k, s, tlhat lte 1i ) troops (could (, eter Manila Vitl t('111hem. A\ginaldo d(id o! t adll (8eel 1 1,ienela l M(errenitt n01 his arrival, and tlis (1ena1bledIl tlie 1ltter to avoi(l ay clv e imminicaltion with htim, either (iirect 01 indirect, IInt il fter Maili lid beei taken. Genmeral Merritt t111ll 1e'ceived ee] (11 o(,f Ago'llinaldo's sttafl oftficers in lhis office as military governor. Then illterviewN las81(1ed ore tlhan an11 hour. C(eleral Merritt refe(red, to liis proclal(1llltiol 1 s sllhwingll tlhe conditions under which thie American troops 18(ad (ol(e 1, MaI ila and thle nature of the military governmS(l ent-, lwhilch wnoul1l be Ilai lntaiined uintil furthler orders from WashlVingti (on. lie agree(1d upon the ilies outside of thle city of Manila, ll) to which the insurgent troops could come, but no fturther, with arms inr their hans. ITe ask(ed for possession of the water works, which was given, and, while expressing our friendship and sympathy for the Philip 11() C0 OI:l iC'-\'1T)O\'s /I'ITI! 1 I\SURG(1VIN7'S. t)itIe peop)le,l( lie, stated v'ery p]siivl t h ivelN I at Ilie t nitedl States governnentt. had placed at his d(isplosal an a111pl,'e fI'oe for carr'ying oult his instructlions, land( even if th(e s1rvices (of iAulliilll)dos for'ces had been needed as allies the slI,(hould not hI ave felt at libertv to taccelt tlhelm. IFrom tile first it wasN; seen tlhat tle prJoblenl of 1ow to deal with,ay -llillld( s )S erl1lllll t Iandw tri'(ps l ould nl~{ecessal'ily b~ice saccoli, 1{arllaiedll wnith embarrassment all sll nd dililculty, and wvo ild require'll' IIuch tf'act- andl, sk ill in its sollit-ion. 'lte I llited States goverun 'let, t! lroghli its naval t. 1 commain der ', I (ad1 to som(e ext ent ade 11( 1use of I tem for a d istinc t mliiitay piiIpIose, to telrass a 111, l 1 sy Ie lllispa1is to 'l to s1 wearl t, hemw(' out in the trenches, to blockade Manila oi he hand side, and to 410 as to tllake the arms (1(and iinin11it iis wvlichi he h1 d ci a ('ptlu edl t1 ( tl aite, andl their ships to ipass iln d iwit of Maul hila vby ini thell exl peit-los lagaist( (otter prlovince. lutl tille Admil a1 s a svery ca(lref 1pi t ive Auic Iilllol- 1no assurances of re(ogiltiton and no pledg'es (o lprloises of any d(escrij)tionl. '1The1 servi-ces Iwhlich Agu(linatldl i and his adel Il(entls rendered ill elp arin ug tilie way foln at on )10 MaiiJ 1a -are certaild t (lititledl ) o consideration bult, aIfter all, they were siall in vcomparisoin with what was done by our fleet and arn]y. An American Government in Manila. Our 1armv entered Mantila on tohe aftern1oon (if August l. ()i On thle 14th tlie (a) itula lion waNs signedj, anld the11 s11ame day ( 1eneral MeAri vttI isslledl his )wproclamation establislhing a militarv government. On the 15th General MacArtlir was aplploWilted inilit arx (comnnaldl(ler of the walled city aid provost-niarslial-ei^eral of thie cit.y of Manmila 1and its suburbll s, a1d(1 o01 t1he 1711 u `1 enea(l Greene- was appoiTnt ed to l(take charge of tlie (ldlties perforuiled by Ilie ini i ister o(f inall ce, and all fisca l a( 'lirs. }l'>epresentatives of tlhe postoffis e de)(1part lent 1hlad arrived (on the steXamship-) China in July and tlhey i nlediat-lely toi) k c( a.11 ge (if t lie ManIila postoffice, vwhiich wa s 5opened (o business (on tie I(tli. Tlhe (lstomi 1house wats open-iled on the 18th, wit-l) TLieutenanit-Colomnel Whitftier as collector, and1( the in-teina l revelnue office, w\itll Maj-orileient as collector on the 22d. Captain (BaIss of the navy was appointed captain of the C(O)AI1(ICAT1'I()NS \ IT'1/ lI1 JE INA4SUl(;,JNTS. 'S. 111 po o al, (w 11av:11 cdlicv andI hmlook charii-e oidf 1' the i o,Aist', 19th. The c(olecti(o 0s8 o ( cl!sto(InS 1111i Ilo t IIi list tell (1das (x'eoded -1 00,000. T Ie collect ion () ilitel:l 1(evenuIlle ws sim11ll owin, to the diti lciltv and d1lay ill ascert aillin'g what perJS(11s had ( 11l(d Ilot p)id1 tlii taxes for Il(Ie currenll t year. TlI a(1dlilnistration ()1f waIte w1ks was pu1 il t in ('lcarge of LieuItenate t I(oIII Iuo, ()of thIIe eIIn'ineers, oin A Iugn 1'st r25; Ithe )r()ovost cIourt w ith Lieitena it-( olo-el Jewet, judge,adoaIate iiited St aes voiin1(e1rs, sittling aIe jIeI(Ie, was (a- pl))illted a8111 11] ld41 its first sessiot) ()11 Au\ gust 23. Tl'le il)'vos\t-l1 l-(118 ^lra a-g 'le,l 11.1 (h1l1- (' tof tl lie police, ti, il healtitiI ad1(1 street (cleanlinr delp,1atJe1slits, 1and1 111t issuing of licenses. The Ilar1diat civil, oP01,'e idale11.lie o(f i ie city, ' jmIn (il nitl,let pl(roi inefIicientl, thev w'ere 1lis1. IIled a11nd( d(isallded(; tile 1t II Miint nesota regimient was detlailed foir 10(lic, (liItvy, a l(1( one o 'r r 'otm)nies sta)tioned ill each l)()lice stati oi, fi'l wlli(ch lp atlrollllel w'ere sent out on the street ', to l take t le place of t he sentri es wlo 1a( constani Iy pa rolled 111iell froml the 1ho1l of enlterilngl tile city. The slhops vwere all clsed1 ont, Saltlr ildaty afteilrnoon, tlhe 13tlh; on AMInday Iso(Inl o(f thllem (, oped l la by W\e( ll le(lnsd t lihe bankls lha(1 resumed, busilne8ss, tile newslal)e8rs were pl)lblishlld, 11d tlie merchants were ready to (eclar ^c )(o8ds t tle1, tlsl l eotase;i tlet trn aml cars were t'lrun i,ingl atn(l the reta il shop.f) w ere al1 pl pen and PROMIT IItN ' illst.~~~~TO PEACE(1oiIg a8I ltare busine(ss. Therl e i(was 1( (disol(der or pil- F OUTINE lags(e of any kild in tlie cit v. 'lie co011I(1t- of the troops was simply adm 11iralible, and left 11f),'1(ou11d forl criticism. It was noted ad 111(1 col(mmnltd up11) by t1e( for(eign iinaval fic(Pers in the mnost favorable (Perms, i1lnd it so sulrpris,{ed the Spa)11misl sold(iers that- a considerable nulnber o)f them i appliied for permi4iI issioI lt en li st in t lIe AmIeric1an service. A total of ab(tl '90000()) of puIblic ftmids beloiininc to thle various govereininleit (depat11 (11(nts was lakeln in ch(11 re by) G(leneral Greene to be appl)lied I)pol)erly ill ipublic service. Onll tlte day after the bailttle of) M ila, 11(dl c((ose(lleiently on Augu'lst 14, General Merritt, issued 1hhe follo(wing pi)roclamation to thle Fililinos: 112 COAMPLICAL11)OXS 1 '1171 1 THE 1NSl'URGI(NT''S. "1lea(liate''s l I )el )rt illIentl of t le P'acific, AuIglists 14, 189i(S. '1To the Pe-1ople of the Phlilippi les: '. \War lIas existted bet\\ le'l t il he lit(ed Stllit s alllt Spainl silnce' Aprlil 21 o(f thlis yea1r. Silvnce thliat i;date ouil hlavre w\\itnessed tlhe dest llliction br1 an An('eri caii fleet' otf tll' Spanllish lia Ilval I)\(er' ill tllese iislandtIs, the fall of the plrinlcipal city, Ma1lil a, and its deflenses, andl t he sur'reidler of) the S)paniislh arliv ( l ccupallltion t t he I nited St ttes. "I I. TIIe Icoindi II;lil I( t I le ni te (1 Sl Iate('s, forces iow in Ipossession has insI I Ict cions from his oveIi IeII t 14t assure t lie people t I h( lie as not co I) I to wa e war ( i 1 ) I t I hem I I, Iio, 11 1) l 1)i p i 0 1 t. l act ion a I on llti,ll butl to p),otect t h(ell ill t l'il' lo l('s, ill tlieil' em'lllol!menl( ts, al lnd ill t leilr pe)so'lltal;1n1 l 'eligiols I'iglts. 1Al llperso(l' wli, l. active aid or hol)el(,st sllulllissill, co-olpe-Iate( withl ltle Ti tedl Sttes ill its ''eorts to) give effect t) tilliis lbentliceni(t puli)l}se, will Ieceiv'e ill(, rewal'l {)of its suplpolt d114 TI plot (ectioll. "III. ThltIe goveriIellililet est illabl ised. ll by tI Ihe UnI TI it 4 4 States is (1 o''overnl'lllent of Ililtilltar occup(lil i; an4l fl'' thle p'l (estltl it is o1r(deried tIhat tlhe lilllniciilpl laws. hS a11411 s aIflee't 1i'ival t.e 'igtlls f 1 )('1pe'sos an1114 propellrty, Ir('gll' lte l()ocal instlititiols alid pl'x ovidle fti' the lpulisllhenltll of clrilm, sha ll l1 be c s(')i jil 'iled' s c in(' u11illlill ill 1f''((c, St frll s1 'coiipatible Awith tile purposes t)' mIiilital govt"e(lili en t, a llt I haIt ti I(-hey e adllm iliistered tillro(11li l tle (ordsilla!arv tlriilnal lls sblstaIluti a1Jl I as be( 1 (ie occuplltioll, but by officills appollinted Iy thlle gover ml lt o!l occupat 11ion. "IV. A pr)vost;-lnarsiial-gen(.al1 will 1( al 1)1 it lI1ed fl' It IIe c4ily (of Manila. andlil its )lutlying' distri Ists. Thlis t(el'iitol'y will bie dlividdll i1tii, sub-districts, adt(l thflee, will be 1assigied( to eac(l a deputy-provostmar.lal. Trl1e duties o(f (lie lprovostl-larsl;lal-gtener.l lnd lhis dleput ies will be set fortlh in ldetail in futllue ol(d'ers. In al genea1ll way tihey ar charged witll the duly of malking arrests o1f i militarv, as well as 4civil EEWRAIT MElt- offenlld e('lse i senli]g 114'11 if I 1he fot1iier' c(lass ass a 1re RITT'S FIRST trible l ) (cofits-matilial to thlr i (011llla ll1d.s, PROiCLAMATION. PROLAMATION with] statemllents of t1l(ir otft{ls(es aniil namel s of witnesses, a114 de1 l 4ainilg i ll (custodly all otiler otl'eld(rs for trial by lililary co1111issiolts, plovst irs, n:tive c'iinal courts, iln a(ccordan(lce witil lalw alnd1 the iistrl iltiols hereaftler to b)e issu ed. "V. Trle p(ort of Mallnila, 11fld:111 Illier po})rls nlld 1 pl 1aces iln ithe Philippines wlhi(c'l mal;y be) inl the actual possession of our land alnd naval forces, will be open, wHllil(e our mllilitlIarv occupalion may continliue, to the coiImmlerce of all lnelutr:l nations as well as our own, in articles not contraband of war, and u1l pol payment of fthe prescribed rales of (dut-v which may be in force at 1-he lime of the imliortation. "VIT. All (liurelies an 1)l lace.s dlevoted to reliogiols worship, an1 to the arts and sciences, all educaitional institlutions, libraries, scientific COAlPLICA TI NS I VIlTHI TlHE lV.S'IR(; -N7'TS". 11;I collect1ions, I 1a(1nd Iiuseiuiiis ae1, so far as possible, to) be pro1t(eted; and ('f histo( riill 11)11Iio1nt1(lits '(, a l ivS, ( (chives, r o' ks o( f s(,i ie e 111(I,11'(, iS fP1'(oIlibited se ave l wl,n ll'elequi 'll by t) i genllf it Iilitary,1('lcessity. Seve' e pll'I)t1?' f~lliltl) I'i 1' I('I ll(' lltS, z111' ~l'liX (' li()1' 7(3 f 1'v )1,8('i( 'l, ~(' (11 11 t', Il 1X z1 ishl (lenti will e (',111 ted I(llilt ' 11' ll vi(o l l lalio s (o1 ' this e ('S '.l ati ti ('. Ii i e l '(', st4,l1a11'flls atf I ('ll ro t of 11 l 11, al tel' 111'110tioll ( ed ill this (lcha al('cte('1 (l l 1 ( alio, I1i l (I ll'Oi d(Yilt si ll( o!l t (lcmII' 1(, 4ll tio) is 1a Ih11(v mav liiink po)l()er fol t le fill pr(oection (o lie pro) prti' es iundelr 11eir cae a011(1nd c('sto1d\, IhaI1t1 p01p(1 ordersI mav issue enjo1inj2in'r Hwe c(o-opetr-a tion ofi both mili11' (1 and civil a8144( ri4 88 811t(11I ies i seu ri SVchl protect ((iont. (i1'(lif tar ()'lltc ir lient.I'la d il e('11teril' n 111upon Il( s dl(1t casl mil' itary r ( ov l'\lt e pacr 111 p r('forl ti, i11 l(e (I i ltis o I'rd(1 Ili'e 1'otprel' ' t,.sItitilv l(s f le er't, l( 1pt ill s(l faull 18 1s i be uilnd l ecessai f)o tle l' id of tHie seivice( of til(e UnTited Sta1(- I11d ( l ie 1(benet it of th q ie ol o Philip)i IIE S. Looking forward to the se(in1nd hio,v(,f ] nle 1bes t collditions possible fopr dir's c tiont, Auilaldo lostf titirs in ssnil::illr hia cmr lissie to Aaslhingon cto, repreient the Fili ilnos. iSenor V(elipe Aronc(illoi w'as assigleI 1o0I tInS 1lol}soii 1 1lis1si8ll8 111, llid( 11 l( 01lTeved t( San Frai111o(8 b)v -ie 0 e 1110' steae1111' whlich cl r (l8i(ed (llenerall G(1eene. G(eneral MAerritt a1 he sbame 1 r tile st8 art0]ed for ParIis t) be presenit at the meetinr of the ti'eaty com'1111issionles tierse. 'Froml tieh( ille of I lie ariival o(f lad foii r(es, AIi-tall(h) hi1d been exercis'(eld 1s to whalt sha'1re ill ile baNttle (f MIil would be1 allow1ed the( insutigens. lIe was (1elluctiant t1) be put a(sidel, 811(1 re01s(1nted the request tIliat 11ie ev('1.18t0 hlis trellches and )perllit Amlelricaln s011diers1 to take po.)sition Ilihere. Aft-er tIlat tiiew, when (xIINALI)() he and his government were refusel d any pa't i tue 1WEtL1MS direction of affairs in Manila aid his arnmy was turnedil back when enldeavolring to eniter the (city wit-l the vict(orious Americ'ans, he became more restless under tlie restraint and comnplications be-ran to arise. One of tle most imnportl1111t 1fmoves inl tlhe effort to oHbt.iil an aljust 114 M '()i/JC I' I'( A'S TII T lH/I: INASUk(;L/ NTS. met ol, e Ih alti osllips I )I tii p he Filipi uns was t I ( iiss(ue 1) Ilir jlunta iil -Iloglong o:f -an alppeal to thie Amlleric Ins. It recite&d ( their (omplainlts, sonie of tlle alleoItiolls ti wevs, 1 er, beig ovler rawn, an begtted for redress. This appeal, issued November ]5, was as follows: "\e, the IIong1k eprsentative lsli i's of our coullntry11en, a!ppleal to the great and g()(d judllent of l'P'sideAnt 3lcKinl1ev an.ll tlhe slpirit. of f:airness and justtice of tlle Ainerican p)eopl e as always slown ili their regazird for tlhe petitious of tle (eak aL 1(1 ll)plessed. "While lthe ate( (f tlle isl.an(1s is still lundecided, and vwe arve (loilg all in our plower to 1)prevent a c(nilict t(et\\w'ti ll te Alerlicatis a'11(1 'Filip)iI1os —w\aitiln l)paieitly- f or tlle cclutsion of tlie lris confrenc --- we impll(e tile initer'vention of tle l'Presildell, supported by tlIe Awill of the people, to e(ld thlie sliItIs shown our leaders, oflicials, soldiers andil ]eolle by somle of tile A\rillicali Ililitl'y';1la(1 n;lava! altllhities and solldierls. "X~e d() Iot w ihI to (do A 1dmiral Dewel I ( ev l ( elllea1 ()tis w vroIg, blit we presume thalt- rep lls, lunder lpress cen(soirslhip, wvill b1), as tl hey have beeln, slent blradcl'ist, allegingl thalt all tlie mnistakes ar ll )'111 d thllat the Americans are trealting) us lmost kildly. But- wAe must telll the 1 trth for thle best inlterests of bot ll ]arties, (ldelpending uplon the Amuericanl President and Ipeolle to see thllat jlstice' is done to orl le e:li's, Aguinaldo especially, lhav'i g full confiidencetin 11i utillma tel' re'(iviiIg justice from Amiierica. "What have we do(ne tlhat we s11uld experienlce unfriendly t eaItment? Are tle Americalls our friedls? ''lle te(sion becol es (, great c daily, and any moment a slhot lmay be tired by ai'i: irresponsible Al ie1' icean or Filipino soldier'. And ili fllael(t t Ius starltel can only be quenclledl witlh bloold ldea to us botli. "We beseech tlo Almerican President and people to help) us to control our own people by diriecting tihe (otficialls at MIanila to temlpet their actions with frienlslhip,l justice andl fairll(ess. "\\e s5lg'gest, thalt Admira'l i)cwey and (leneral PETIU UNENT Otis anld (eneral lMerritt, in P.1ar1is, be ask1ed: QUESTIONSS TO BE ASKED. If, from( thie (ollilenleeItllIt, o)f lo(stiltlies to the r1)esent illime, have not A\u uiald1o anid tlh Filipinos unlder hlinm a.cceded in eve(try re(pilest, o(f tlie Amelican officials? l'te Filipinros h uave a surlpre iwiitillg theln in the iltrodtletioro (Af Aiierioal agrinultural inmplenment n rthia; itote the motive o)ver i ) tninore pritmiivti thgit thle 1)u1oS,1 i i HAULING BRIDGE TIMBERS IN LUZON, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS oe ough carts employed for freightllg iin the Pthiippntes and the peculiar draft-cattle Used for draw* ing theml, cUi bear heavier Ioads tlhan one might believe without knotleilge. A PUBLIC READER IN THE CITY OF MANILA In the Philippne Islanids it is the practice for )public readers t ta e their tation a av place and read the papers andi hoks of the day to soch as wisshk to patronize their industry In the a actories, as in those of Cuba and Puerto Rico readers are employed for the entertainment of the eigarmakers while the latter are at work. COMPLICATIONS WIITH THE INSURGENTS. 117 "When Manila was captured, although the Filipinos had driven the Spaniards into Manila, completely investing the city and occupying some of the roads commanding in part the approaches to Manila, in advance of the Americans, were Filipinos not entirely ignored and even not notified of the intention to attack, or of the time or part they were expected to play, even if such was to stand aside? "When the Filipinos, seeing the intention to attack, went to the assistance of the Americans, were they not stopped by an armed body and faced about, instead of being informed by friendly, peaceful request that they were not wanted? This unexpected action would have placed the Americans between two fires, Spanish and Filipino, if shots had been exchanged in the excitement of the moment had not then the Filipinos restrained themselves and obeyed the Americans, although deprived of the fruits of victory and participation in the final triumph after fighting all the way to the very walls and bearing the brunt of three months' campaign. "After remaining a month on the outskirts of the city, where we had been stopped, quietly, as a garrison, we were ordered away. Did not we cheerfully obey, although having no assurances that the Americans would not give back the Manila posts, vacated, to the Spanish? When located for several months still farther out, we were ordered even beyond the suburbs of the city, where no quarters or shelter existed for troops and where supplies were difficult to obtain, did not we obey? "Can the cruel allegations that we would murder, loot, steal and commit incendiarism if given a free hand be supported, when we conducted a campaign throughout Luzon, capturing all the important points outside of Manila and taking FILIPIEOS MODERATE and treating humanely a thousand Spanish prisoners I WARFARE without being guilty of such acts, beyond what accompanies any military campaign, as the work of irresponsible campfollowers? "We beg that the American officials be asked also if all the Americans visiting the Filipinos' headquarters at Malolos, traveling in the interior, visiting the camps and lines or seeking favors of our officials, were not uniformly politely treated? 118 COMPLICATIONS W'ITH THE INSURGENTS. "IB a friendly manner we invite the consideratioit of other points. Groundless and harmful rumors are being constantly circulated by Spanish sympathizers and malcontents, which are often believed without investigation. Our protests are not heard. "All our launches were seized because of foolish rumors that we would attack the Americans. We asked for an explanation in seeking their recovery, and were not even given an answer. "Our enemies were delighted, thus encouraging further rumllors. "Should not some logical reason, other than mere repori, be given for suddenly seizing our property in Manila? "The Spaniards, the late enemies of the Americans, are shown every consideration, and the Filipinos, friends and allies, are often treate(d as enemies. Does this satisfy American ideas of justice? The Filipino people cannot understand it, althoughh their leaders tell them not to protest and that all will end well. ",We are asked by the Americans to restralin our people and avoid any outbreak pending the decision of thle( )epace( commission. This we gladly do. But we beg that similar instructions be given to the Americans by the XVashington government. "From the beginnlin of our relations, when Aguinaldo was urged in Singapore and llongkong to return to (avite and assist the Americans, until Manila fell, we acted under the advice and with the knowledge of the American officials. During that time we conquered (all of Luzon outside of Manila and were informally recognized -lnd ( encouraged by the Americans. When Manila was captured t1eir chief end was attained, we were no longer recognized andl were even treatel as untrustworthy. Is this just? "We can only attribute this suddlen change from friendly encouragement and co-operation to an order from Washington to the officials at Manila to avoid compromising the American government by any recognition of the Filipinos or their government. They have endeavored to carry out these instructions literally, believing it the proper course to ignore the Filipinos entirely, losing sight of their former friendly intercourse and assistance and of the assurances the American officials made to our leader Aguinaldo, who in turn communicated the same to his followers. COAMJl' (UrlTI()NS WlITiI THE INS(JURG 1NTS. 119 "In conclulldiln our f1ll lble but lt earn(st aippeal to thle 'President and tile people of tIl e great Am:erlhican lRel)pulic we wish to emphasize our absolute confidenlce in him and 1lien1 t o Ilake it plain thall ou(r protests are not prolpt(d by any feelin FRANK (TITl)E n TO THIE of a1ni1osity, but are directed against the conditions AMERICANS. AMERI(CANS. exis at ig alt M ila, Iand n10ot ainst the American goverlnment or people(, to aIckn(lowledge oullr gratit de to the AtVlerican arms for (lestr(oying Spanish powern in the 'lhilippine(s and permitting the return of Ag iiialdlo, anid to express t lie lhope that Anmerica will stand by iher det(erliinali(on not to return the islands to Spain. "rWe await tlhe arbitlnamlll(nt of thle peace conmmission, for whose good judgm(llent we hlave profound respect, witll eveln greater interest tlan tllhe Al(meric'anls, b(ecal11use it concerns our native land, our happinesS, o11r free(doim a-lld '()ul homes.]1. "IIn tie tman(illtime w(e prlaly for peace and a perfect understanding withl li l(, Am('erica11s." By l is tme (leneral M1erritt was in London on his way to the IT11it(ed Sta1'tes a111( e 1( I'e r1( witl a grea(t deal of interest thef long letler of com)pla-int,fagainst Am(erican o(ti(ials in the Philippine islands a(ddressed by the Filipino junta of Iliongkono to President McKinley 111nd tlie pPeople. In (dis(cussingl the Filipinos, the American general refe(rred to tlle as "chiildren," a(nd said it would be iinpossible to estlablish Aliiericain,governmient in tlhe islanlds. lie:added that they must have some form o(f colonial government simcilar to the British colonial g(overlllllllts. Rl-zegardling tle com1( dlllits of the Filipinos the gen(eral said: "It 1as impolssil)le to recogtnizet the insurgents, and I made it a poilit not to do so, as 1 knew it would lead to complications. Admiral l)Dwey after mly arrival lpursued the same course. What was done (efore is not for nme to coniment on. I purposely did not recognize Aguinall d or his troops, 11nr di(l I use them in any way. lAguinaldo dlidl not ask to see me until ten dlays after my arrival. After that I was too much occupied to see him. "In talking with leading Filipinos I told them the United States had no promises to lmake, but that they might be assured that the government and people of the United States would treat them fairly. 120 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. This was because the ITnited States is in the habit of dealing fairly with all stru,(gling l peoples, and not because I had been authorized to say anything of the kind. "We purposely did not give the insurgents notice of our attack on Manila because we (lid not need their co-operation and d(id notp: purpose to hl(ave it. W rV e wer oved,by fear that they might loot and plunderl and possibly miurtder. Agninaldo's subordinate lead(rs, in conversin' withll All(ericlan officers, frequently said thl'ey intenlde( to cut the throalts of all the Spaniards in Manila. "Agulinald(o liimself wrote a comp lainingf letter saying the insurgents liad been denied 'their share of the booty,' walltever hle may have meant by that. I took no notice of this letter nor do I think the subject now raised is a matter for discussion between VAglinaldo and any representative of the American government." General Otis, then ilte coimmander of the American forces in the Philippines, proposed to A guinaldo t rels that he friars and civilians held in captivity throughout the provinces. The insurgent leader dlenied their maltreatment and. refused to release the prisoners, claiming that the civilians had enlisted as volunteers and therefore were legitimate prisoners of war. Aguinaldo also denied that women and children were detained, but said some women and children had voluntarily accompanied their husbands or fathers into captivity. As to the friars, Aguinaldo argued that they are prohibited by the pope from accepting parochial appointments; that they are only permitted to follow monastic life, and that the parFRIARS RETAINE) islhes are intrusted to ministers of the independent AS FILIPlrNO PRISO FIINO monastic orders. But, he added, the Philippine clericals have deliberately and systematically deceived the pope, pretending that the country was barbarous, unfit for the regular ministry and that it was necessary that the monastic orders should administer the parishes. Therefore, Aguinaldo continued, he considered it necessary to detain the friars until the pope is undeceived. Newspapers in the Philippines began to publish inflammatory and aggressive articles regarding the Americans. The most threatening complications of all were centered about COMPILICA1TIONS [I TH TH f/A IVSC(RGA1N PS. 11 121 Iloilo, the seo ii Y of thle iShlId(1, Oh1 thle ishllld of Jaiiy ni les south of Manila. This is one of the grroup known as, the Visayas islands. Iloilo was besieged by the insurgrents a-nd So closely encircled that the Spanish ga(rrrison. which was stationied there, linally was unable to hold1(1 oit. any longer. Several thiousand soldiers wNerer surrndB~ered to the native forceswt ag atte fam n ainmunition, onl the 24th of IDecemnber. Three (lays later an Americani expedlit ion, which had be~en hurried southiwrard from Mlanila mln(ler thei coiinandl of ( enercal Marciis J). Millearriv~ed fat. Iloilo, and found that thie San iiir(Is hado evacua-ted the place. The( steamer (Churuca, trlansferredl the S8planish forces to Mindianao. I-n a~ccordance wil I an agrree- FIPNO CAPTURE CITY ment the relbels entered the city and trenches" Onl OF ILOILO. Monday at noon. They immediately estabilishedl a nilnicilpul goverunment. (4 uardls were lplaced over foreign property. Everythingr was quiet and orderly. There was somle looting' during the night, but five natives were shot, and this had an exemplary effect. The only foreigni ship in the harbor was the (Itermnan cruiser Irene. TJhe Filipinos assured the Ainericans that they might, land unarmed, but that if the latter landied armned. the natives would be. uncontrollable. Every prelparationl was imaLde, forl resistance upon the piart of the rebels,.and re-enforcemients were arrivingr from -Negros and the neighboring islands. To define the position of thet Am-erican authorities ill the Philippines, President McKinley 'Issued a letter to tile secretary of war, with instructions that it be transmitted to General Otis and by him embodied in a public proclamation to the Filipinos. The letters was as followvs: "Executive Mansion, WXashington, D. C., IDecember 217 1898.T'o the Secretary of War. Sir: The (lestructionl of the Spanish fleet in thle harbor of Manila, by the United Stiates naval squadron coinAid nedl by Rear-Admiral lDewey, followed by the reduction of the city "and the su —rrendler of the Spanish forces, pr~actically effected the con(luest of the Philippine islands,,- and the suspension of Spanish sovereitrnty therein. "With the, signature of the, treaty of peace between the, United ESlates and Spain by their respective plenipotentiaries at Paris on the. 10th inst., and as the result of the victories of American arms, the future control, disposition. and government of tile Philippine islands, 1 '2'2 cO lrIci'CA1TIONS ItiIP TIHE INSURGENTiS. are ceded to tlhe United States. Ini fulllfmlenlt ofr ihe rii'ts of s(ver eignty thus acquired iandl tthe ' responsible obligationls of g')ve'(lll111'tlt thlus lasslu~ i ed thle act iI)'Sal occulat ill()o )(t ( l ad a ist at ion (of tt he1 1entire group of the Philippine islan(s becolmes immediately necessary, and t(he ilit a I oei t ary ovl(,ri llt (l ]heretoflore n)mi llaillti(ed by Il tIle ('ited StatesI) ill the city, hall)o a11(1d bvay of Malilla is Ito be ext11ded Iit lll; t ill possible dispatch to t lie whole o(f I ll(e ceded'i( i tel i itor,. "In pe)erfol llgi] this: tlll tvlhes ni.litall'y co i m1ader )of, te United States is enjll oilled to make lknown to the iiuhlabitait s of ( flie lPhilippine isi il(l s a s th:i, in SucOi o lill t(i t h)r(e)li) i il'i (i f Spa til, ill sevenrillg t hie forimer politicnal relationls o(f thle iiihahlbitants anlld inll est ablishillig a Il(eV political power, the atlithorita ( o, tthe Ulitted Statles is to) be exertedl t'o the sovereignlt of lthe personils a1141 pro( rty of ithe people -the islanlds 1landi for tlhe confirmationl oft all t1('i private ri(gh'ts a11nd relat ('iolns. "It will be 1t li (the (lI - ot I I (co) Ian il er of l(1 e '( )1('(1 olt O 'C I I ti(411 to( anlloulce and(1 procila i in ll e most pu bl'ic i()n nmauer I ha t,1('i we com'e'( it, oa inv.dfiers or conIeror'(s, but. as friends, l to prf (ctx i1 t ie nti ves il t1t4iri hotlles, in l i t ell r e ilplom ie s (d,11(l illi l: l their ) 'll Id reliiol ls rights. All persois who\v, eit(her by active aid or honeIst submiiJssion, (o-ora)ti t (e wit t e g ()vern mn (nt f tlie Uni t( t S 1s, t o s (ive Ife th ( th tese benefi ti IIId pur1 o s)11, will t re( (ee t re 1 ( wa of l its si uppt l r11 1 lrol ectte in. All. (othes w(ill be ro(ll o itt wihil, I 1e law'n l Irle we hve assumeld ith firmness, if need be, bult withloutl sevelrit s far alls mayi be possible. "Withi'i: tn e aralh ors lt((a1. I (1)0ivt r o, 1i tli rt1 t tlri t, fwhich (1 i Ssail is as.nll be 1-aid r hein siupreme illn thesl ceded a eritr vl until o l leIjslat M^^1(110 of tilie Tnited (States shal(1 lierwise proPRES'T. cTKIN-EY te 111(111 icipal aws of lie tIer0ritory i respect o() WRITES vide, t'll I i; 1(4 private 1ir L lit5s ",d( property a1l(d 1 lie iepr(1118ssio1i of A LETER ci (imii(,e are to be considered as comitlilning inl force anid to b)e aI(lminiistereld by the ordlila i ry t1ribIua111s So( fllar as possible. TIhe' operationlls of civil anl municipall l governiment a1re t1) b1 p)rfolti1rmed by1\ such oflicers as may accept tllhe slupremqiiacy o(f tihe IJitjed States by taking the oath of allegiance, or by officers c(hosen as far as may be practiclable from the inhabitantis of tlie islandls. "7Wh1ile thle control of all tlie public property a( d the revelnues ( of the state passes with thle eeSSion anTd whl ille the use a8-d 111a11i1,i(agelenllit of all publie means of trallnsl)ortaliolln are neI-lcessaril v reserved lo the authority of thle iUnited Staties, private l)proTe1ry, wietheer belongin to idivi-idlluals or corporations, is to be respected( except for caullse fully establ.ishe(l. Tlie taxes and duties lheret-ofore palyable by tie( inhlabitants to the late governinlIt becomle )lpayable to t1he authorities of the TUnited StatePs unless it be seen fit to substlitute for thlem other reasonable rates or Ino(les of contriblution to tlie exptenses of fovernliment, whether general or local. If private property be tlaken for military use it shall be paid for when possible in cash at a fair valuation and COMPLICATIONS WIT7H THE INSURGENTS. 12:I z.d, when payment in c(aslh is not practicable receipts are t1() be given. "All poirts 1anld 1)la'es in t-ll( Phlili)pp)ile islands in the actual possession of tlhe land and Inaval forces of tle United States will be openled to thle commtierce of all friendly nations. All goods and wares, no-t prolliibitled for military rea.)sons by ldu1e aninu(cement of the military laitlhority, will be aldinitte(d ul)oln paymllcnt of such dluties and other cha}rges as shall be in force at the tilme of their irmpl)ortation. "Finally, it sh1ould be tlhe earnest and paramtiount aim of the miliI11ary ad(illistral'ti to win tlhe confidence, respect and affection of the inhllalbitants of th:e Ph'iliIpines by assurin to ttlenm in every possible waly tllhat fill me1l(,asure of in(livi(lial rights and liberty which is the lleritiage of free )peo Iple anld )by proving to th-lien tlhat thle mission of tlle Un lit.ed Staltes is one of beneIvolenIt assinlilaltion, substituting the mlild swaly of jlltii.e and rilht for arbit-rary rule. In the fulfillment of thlis hilgh mission, suplrting the temllperate administration of affairs forl tlhe greal-tst good of thle governed, thlere Imst be sedullou sly mainhtoin~ed tle( strong a'rm of authority, to repress disturbance and to over(o111t( all o1)sl:4acles to to te Iblsto-)wl of thlie b)lessing(s of good andl stable goverun' (1m lient ulpon Ie 1((people of the lPhilippine{ islllnds under the free flagS o-f i-1(h ITnit{edl St ates. \ILLIAM M'K(INLEY. (11111omentinglr I1lo)ln Presilent McKintles proclamaltion to the Filipilos isslued by (nl(eral Otis, t lie InTldependelcia, a nati i(ve paper, dec(lre(}l tile pr)oblemli presented ]most grave.. It aldmittedl tlhat tIelle w(lre only two sollutionls possible.-namely, tlhe Aillmerican abandonmlllentll of tlheir ainnexation p)olicy, claiming that tlie people lhere are not desirous of al)sorption in tlheir nationality, or a prolonge(d andl bloody war. It cit-ed te example of tlie "noble patriots of Iloilo dlefy'ilng G(eneral Miller," expressed hope for a pacific termination ()f tllei crisi, but hinted of trouble. Within a few hours of tlhe proclamation issued bly Major-(leneral Otis in behlalf of Presilent McKinley tlie agents of A(guiinld)o billed Maflila. withl a mlanifesto which attracted( considerable attention. The re-volutiol.nary president protested agGainst (lenerall Otis si gnin hilllself military governor of tlle Pllilippine islands. TTe declalred he had ]never a(greed at Singapore, ITlongIkong or elsewliere to recognize' tlhe sovereiglnty of the Americans here and insists that llIe reAGUINAL)O turned to thle Phililppines on an A.nerican ship solely AGUI ISSUES to conquer the Spaniards and to win inldependence. REPLY. lie insisted that botlh his proclamations of May 24 and June 12 stated this fact officially, and lie claimed that Major-General 124 124 COMPLICATIONS WiTH THII INS! CGENTS. Mlerritt coinfirined tins by a proclamtation several days before the Spani-ards capitulated, stating cleairly antI1I defiiiitely thiat thie Amecrictan forces came to overthrow the Spafi sli Yovermut, and liberate t lie Filipinos. The revolut lolidry lea~lder then calle1 111)1on all his followers to workd together withi force and assuredl themi hie was convinced thtat they wvold obtain labsolute inlependenee, 1rgiing -themn never to return "fromi the alorious roadl" on winch they have "alreatidy so far advanced." W'hile military affairs were in this straitied condhition, a. newv Filipino cabinet was forined, comnposed as foIlows: President of the cabinet and minister of foreign affairs, Mabini. Minister of the interior, Teedoro Sandico, l, civil enginleer, eddutcated in England and Belgiutm and taken to Manila from Hlongkong by BtearAdmiral )ewvey. Minister of war, Gen. Baldomero Agninaldo, a cousin of Aguiiintaldo and a leader of the insurrection fromi the beginnilig, lie is a. lare Landowner of Cavite. Minister of finance, General Trias, a close ally of Aguinald)o. Minister of public works, Gregorico ({onz~ag-, a lawyer, until rccently the Filipino agent at Hlongkong and formerly Spanish att orncygeneral in the Yisayas. The cabinet was honmogeneous, every miemiber being pledlgedi to resist the American military occupation of the Philippine -s. Mabini claimed recogynition of the independence of the Philippine islands and would not consent to the release of the Spanish prisoners, but was willing, to come to an understanding with the Americans, "as allies," for the surrender of the Spanish military and civil officers and others on the following conditions: "The negotiations to be opened formally between Spcaain and1 thle, national Filipino government, Spain nominating a delegate to treat therewith. "Exchange of prisoners and Spain to repatriate, firstly, all the Filipinos held prisoners; secondly, all prisoners of war condemned as traitors, revolters or deserters, and Spain to grant amnesty to all Filipinos and Spaniards accused of conspiracy in the insurrection. "Spain to defray all the expenses of repatriating the Filipinos and also the cost of maintaining and repatriating the Spanish prisoners held by the Filipinos. A NATWE CAB IN MANILA O eance aout th streets afer the fashion we know at hoe by eas of orses s common enough but in additio to that, a ge omber of cabs, sh as ere son are enplyed and find patronag The vehicle suggests a whetar w of the prinitivesort. A~~~~~~~~ r~~~~ I RURAL SCENE IN LUZON PHILIPPINE ISLANDS Tllmts I'leture 1,;As {a Been.llfrelq appyar~ fro li ` t o fe wueld find it L farmitig country in tle Un it~e States, and yet there are X t I li _ -,. iIe t t.E. s - 04 o t z u ot, 0 / i~ ii ii I8 -CIGAR FACTORY IN MANILA zl~S SeA-,D*, I- >Iele ote greitte m3nuf~torie, Of cigars ihe Philipjpine Tslands shkx- Lie -na(lml, W~Ad ' I I. Chide of t '.3.tAS~gt><>Xlt Sbfali <-3a~f W t:()Nilc e3fdtv Aft wSell a,c thlf h}lr-i.lllel. Adhita1Srate-,-I I}'eeabAte iu t-~~ti, - f 0S;)^la COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 129 "Friars taken prisoners will not be includedl in the exchange, seeing that they acted as papal agents (1uring the war; but their surrender would be made on the condition, firstly, that tlhe CDITION apo)stolic delegate will ask their liberty in the nalme F LLTACE of the po1i; secondly, that all bulls and pontifi(cal (le- OFFER crees granting special privileges to tlhe religious or(ters be revloked; t]irdly, that all rites of the- secullar clergy be respe'eted; folrthlly, thlt no friar hold ay parislh, cathedral, episcopate or diocesan preferrments; fiftlily, that all such preferinents be held by native or naturalized Filipino clergy, and, sixthly, that rules for the election of bishops be fixed." (Conditions around Iloilo became more critical. The streets were barricalded and many buildings prepared for defense in the event of attack. The insurgents threatened to destroy the whole business quarter of the city at the first shot of bombardment by the Americans. The banks sent their funds aboard ships in the harbor. President McKinley's proclamation had to be typewritten aboard ship, as the printers on shore declined to do the work, and when the text of the proclamation was read to them they ridiculed the notion that conciliation was possible. Senor Agoncillo, the Filipino representative in Washington, had made repeated efforts to obtain diplomatic recognition from the President and the secretary of state, always without success. They had received him personally and lhad listened to his presentation of affairs, but had given him no official recognition whatever. In his communication of January 24 to tle secretary of state, Senor Don Felipe Agnocillo called attention to the fact that on January 11 lie addressed a letter to him upon the question of recognition, forwarding with it a memorandum demonstrating that according to all American precedents the Philippine republic was entitled to recognition, and in the same letter invited the attention of the secretary to the present strained conditions at Manila, where overzeal on either side might create a condition resulting in grievous loss of life and urging the necessity of an early and frank communication between SEEKING RECOGNITION IN the representatives of the two countries. He further WASHINGTON called attention to the fact that since his letter was written the very circumstances he feared have brought the two countries to the edge of war. 1:30 CO0APLIC.A TIONS i IT7'H THlE INSURGENTS. lefferringl to thle n(ltilnuall movement of ships and troops to the Philippines, A goncillo says lie is unable to conceive of any reason why the army and ntavy of thle Tnited St, tes, lately employed against a commolln enem(y, should be turned against America's recent associate. rThe Uniteid States, h1e says, lhas no active enemy in the orient, having )roclaimed an armistice with Spain. It is true, he continues, that Spain a]1s 1und11erltaken to colvey to thle TUnited States its allteoed claiml against the Ph'lilippines, a. claim which Sp-ain was not capable of enforcing' anid whlich ntever found its origin in the co)nsent of the )teople of those islands. Ile inquires: ";Are my government and peolple to be left t o slplIlsel thlat it b is becaulse of some ('lesir e p'on lie art of the American govertnient: to enforce agaillst its late assocUiato this cxp)lol(ded claim tlhat tlte UtTited States is nassilig its forces at the late capital of thl P'lipl)pine islands?" lie is sure tlhe secretary of state will applreciate, in view of the cir'listlances Idet:ailed, tle qutiellg, reassuring effect upon the minds of his count rymen to result fiom a (lisclaimer up)n the part of the Aliler'ica:n g{overnnient of any inten(tion to attack their liberties and in-lut )by thiis tilim t here were tw)o delelgaltions of Fililinos in Washingt on. One was flhat hieaded by Agoncillo, representing' ANvguin;aldo and the insurg(ents; the othler, wealthy merchants, also Filiilns, who were ol))pposed to Agiulillaldo and reglarded him as an adventurer. lP'esidelllt McKinley decided upon the:appointment of a coimmission to visit tlle P'llilippine islands and confer with the leading people, both Slpaniards:1a insirgenlts, concerning the 0org'amnization of a goverInmenit. lIe be(lieved it woiuld be taking great risks for Congress or himself or anyloldy to at:t lemptit to frame a go'vernmlent for the FIilipinos without knowing' thior(ougihly the sentimienlts and the requiremnents of the people andl the conditions in whichl tley are situated. Altihonugh lie probably knew as much on this subject as any Iman whio 1Vll W T has not personally visited the archipelago, he (did not PRESIIDENT McKINNLEY. feel nompl)etent to makle any recommendations. HIe believed that we should go very slowly. He wanted also to forlnally assure the Filipinos of the friendly intentions of the United States. lie wanted them to understand that the purpose of this COMPLICA i lTIVONS ItI TI TlE INSURGENTS. 1_31 governIllelt is to) give tIl(' ais ltrg' a; share of self-government as the circun 1istances will j ist ify, and I1he wouldl like to 1ave the views of the peop()le of importalnce, the intell igent (clsses, tlhe property-owners and taxpayers as to tl(h fojrl o(f g''oveir'llent most suitable. This commlllissi{on was coimposed of Admiral l)ewey, G(enoral Otis, Colonel C(harles Denby of Evansville, Ind., who was for tthirteen years minister to Chinal; Presidellt Schlurtmann of Corne1ll University and Professor Dl)an C. Worcester of Michligan University, Ann Arbor. Te'le latter is tlhe author of exhaull stive alIl( va1luablle scientitic work on the Philippine islands, drawn from info)rliiation which lie gained in sci(entific exploration and study in thle archipelago through a period of nearlly tllree ye(ars. N ative plapers alndl inslrgent ladlers gave little credit to the appointment of the commission, (claiming tflait it was but a ruse of the Americ(ans to gain time anld strengthen their )osition. This rwas tlIhe state of;lffairs at tlie end( of JaT lary, 1899, wlhen Amierican men-of-war and American soldiers swere being sent as rapidly as practicable to add to the forces already in the far-away islands of the east. CHAPTER VII. AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. Value of Personal Recollections and Impressions-Stories Told by Correspondents and Artists in the Philippines-Manila in the Early Days of the American Occupation-Americans, Insurgents and Spanish Soldiers and Officers-Friction Begins-Manila Enjoys a Boom-Songs of the Philippines-Soldiers Learning Spanish-First English Paper in Manila-Stories of Sailors and Soldiers. ASUAL impressions and memories of life in strange countries are always of interest, for they are likely to touch upon the more ordinary and personal things which concern all people. The facts of science, politics and commerce are of highest importance, but they become more readable when mixed with tales of the lighter things of life. Into the far-away islands of the east thousands of young Americans have journeyed within the last few months, selected from every walk of life, to do the duties of soldiers and sailors. To their friends and families they have written letters filled with anecdotes and impressions of the things they saw. Some have told of battles on land and sea, some of life in camp, some of peculiar habits and customs of the natives, but nearly all are alike interesting. John T. McCutcheon, the artist-correspondent, accompanied Admiral Dewey from Hongkong to Manila, saw the battle of Manila bay from the deck of one of the American vessels, watched the progress of events till the army came, saw the capture of the city and then remained with army and navy to watch the end of Spanish rule in the Philippines. Hie witnessed all the events and the life GRAPHIC STORIES of that campaign from a most advantageous point OF MANIA. of view. His stories of Manila in the days of change from Spanish to American rule are exceedingly interesting. They are of special value because they outline the life of the city during the early days of American occupation, and 132 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 133 lell the same things that were seen by the soldiers and sailors themselves. It is quite worth while to quote a succession of Mr. McCultcheon's letters, graphically written by one who saw with the eye of an artist the salient and picturesque features of the events that 1passed before him. Some of the paragraphs will show by what they relate that they were written several months ago, but they are none the less interesting on that account and dates are not essential for the present Ipurpose: "Manila has been in a strange condition since the capitulation. Military rule of course prevails and the streets in all quarters are patrolled by big, rough-looking soldiers in brown. "Down in the business district where the great Escolta runs, with its modern shops and its throngs of people, the scene is marvelously interesting. Shops which have been closed since the 1st of May have now hurriedly opened to gather in AMERICAN SOLDIERS the floods of money being spent by the 12,000 new ON DUTY. arrivals in the town, and the new arrivals are busy buying everything in sight. Soldiers march back and forth in the Escolta, Spanish soldiers and insurgents crowd along the narrow sidewalks, the carriages of the aristocracy are beginning to venture out and Spanish ladies who for weeks have sought security in the walled city are riding back and forth. American officers, German sailors, Filipinos, Chinese, Malays, Japanese and English sailors; officers from Admiral Dewey's fleet, Spanish officers neat and well groomed, hungry and emaciated Spanish privates, carriages and carromattas and coolies, all drifting along this great business artery of Manila, combine to form a kaleidoscopic picture which can hardly be equaled in its cosmopolitan character anywhere in the world. "The Spanish officers by virtue of the conditions of the surrender retain their sidearms, but the insurgents entering the city are compelled to leave all arms with the guards at the outposts, for the uncertain attitude of the latter makes it extremely problematical what they may be meditating. The Spaniards, particularly the officers and civil officials, are afraid as death of the insurgents, for they know well that there are many old scores to be settled and they fear assassination or assault unless under the immediate protection of the American troops. Conse 1,34 4 AMIIERICA4N RIEMINISCENCES 01O AIlNIL 4A. (quelly tlle Slpaniards (do not1 ventulrel far fromi thte walled city or the crowded business districts in RinoIndo, jst across the Pasig river. The cafes are always jaml nedl and in the big Alhamibra, which reaches fro the avenue to the river, tlhe scores of little tables are nearly always filled with the flotltilng p)oplation of Man1lila. "A\ mong l the soldiers and sailors there is a prevailing g(rood(fellowslhip that reaches far over any political differences which mllay separatet them. Spalish offli(rs and American officers sit t(gether drinking and smoking, andl talkling. Big, roughl, lhealtliy-l)ookilng soldlicr bo ys from the Stlates and thin, hunigry-l:)()king Sp)ianish privates fraternize{ w\it-h such g(oodt feeling a11nd spirit that it; is 1lhard to thinkl tlat ten da(ys ago,, pelrhaps, each was crotuching behild eart lhen breast works 1,000() yards apart, the one with a Mauser, the o)ther a Springfield, trying to I)i(ck each other off. (Gernman sailors and American soldliers are as brotherly as if weeks an(l weeks were n(ot spIent (listrulsting o()e an:otlher. "lImmaedia.tely after the armty of occllpation settled( (ldown in Manill. hundreds of chuck-a-luck gaines sprung up on the sidewalks and in the little shops throughout th thtown. Every one of t-lese was cro(wded(l with natives, Chinrese and Anmericanl soldliers. Tlhey GXMsBLING gave interest and excitement to the generial life o(f tlhe LBEG UN ANDI SUPPRESSEI. street, but (teneral MacArthur started omit on a wildl career of refolrm a few days ago and ltey were all suppressed. Severald dozen offende(lrs were(l (lragged(l before ('()conel Jeweltt, the judge advocate, and given ten days' work on the st:reet(s. "In spite of all the vatrie(l character of the pleoplel in the city, tllhre is c(m)paratively little (lisr()der. Thlle so(l(liers at first fell by t-lhe waI)ysilde in llarge numbe(rs fro() the r(1su1lts of the native gini, lbult tlh(: s;ce(Ies of g)ood-linatured intoxicati)on that were so comlllon a-t first Sare grow;ing fewer. lThe first (day tlle (Germnan ships,ranted s-ho)re liberty to tIhle( crews the streets were filled with reeling, (lizzy Teuton tars, but the best of feeling and order prevailed. Several lit tle clashes occurred be. tween the insurgents and Spaniards, and one( case of shooting has beemi reported. An insurgent officer, wearing his shoulder-straps, encoun. tered a Spanish officer, who attempted to tear the straps off. A strugr gle resulted, in which the Spaniard shot the insurgent through the leg The Spaniard was arrested. AMERICAN REMIJNISCEiINCES 01 I MiANILA. 13. "During these first few d:lays (of iliitary ()(ccllpatio(, every (effort hlas been made by tlhe provost marshal, (lGene(ral Mac'Arthur landl lis ldeplu ties, Colonel Srnlth and Colonel OvenshlineI, 1)roperly to patirol and11 )pro tect property, but the district to be guarded is so (ext elsive I lit thlt cases of pillage that have hapIpened could h(ardly halve b1een plrevented1, 1The off icers and soldiers have taken possession of all the )public andl oflicial residences for headquarters and barra cks. IMainy bea.itutiftil private residences, whlici have lon, been uin(cculpied beclause of their owners fleeing within the walled city,, have be)(en ii)pressed, but in ttlese c(ases reasonable rental Ihas been paid. (lGen(ral Merritt at once took possession of thlle governor-gneral's fli(cial palace or capitol buildling within the walle( city:as the headlquattell rs ol ()f hlilself aid(l staflt. The country palace( of the Spanish gove(rnor at Malac(anani was first occ()ipied by thle oflice(rs of the 1st Californi.a regl(;iumen1t, tblit G( ene4ral IMieritt later established lhis official residenlce tlerel. Tle 1st (alifornia tllen tlranisferred to the admniral's palace in tle saite fashionable sl!)urbs, but (lGeneral (reeneI and his staff, wh1o were teml)porarilvy qu(artere-d at t:he Ilotel de Orieiite, moved out; and sup)l)lanteod the 1st Californians, -1who then ioved into) thlle p)alace( of one of the secretaries, whlich ladjoins tlle go\1lveror's pIalace. 1This is perhaps more desirable tlhan eitlher of tle others, but the 1st was unfortunate, for General Merritt trat usferred( tlihe nilitary co1m1iand to ( (General Otis, who took possession of thle palace in tlih wall(ed city, and General Merritt moved\ hi olhices an11 official headquiarters (it into the secretfary's 1)alace. "General Anderson, between whom and (G ene(ral Merritt thlere has been a well-defined breach of mlany years' standing, is established over in Cavite with a handful of Imen. i is is rather a l1Iuliat ing deail for Anderson, and( has caused a good deal of lquiet talk in armly circles. 'Tlie Cavite ldetail was considered tlie least desirable of any of tlhe posts and the least important, but subsequent events lhave advanlced itt to a place of considerable promninence, since the insurgents have come to be regarded as a doubtful factor. "The relations between the Americans and insurgents are thought to be considerably strained and the situation is very delicate. Nothing can be determined by interviewing Acguinaldo, who is hard to see, and who says nothing when he talks. In the number of interviews which 1 36 AIERICA1N REMINISCENCES 0' L MANILA. I have had with hint he has never said anything which had the slightest value. On one occasion he did give the distribution and strength of his different troops, but this informaIltion AGUINALD) vwO as so ilaniflestly wrong that it was useless. In the A MAN OF SI1ENC(E. lresplect of keepling his own affairs and thle m1ovlements of his troops and hIis selltiments regarding the Amlericans strictly to himllself, Aguinaldo is a conspicuous success. "It is iwell known that the insulrgents have been sullen for sone time. General Merritt paid no attenti(on to theml when he camel, and Agu.inaldo in turn ignored the general. There has never been any coloperation between the two forces. The insurgents by carr-yilng on:a successful guerrilla walrfare hlave acconmplilislled great results. They have completely t a ken all tlhe Spanish outlying p)ositions, one' by one, Iand capltured several houllsand lhal f-lhearted, unl}aid, l iscouraged Splallish soldiers. Grad ally Aguinal pressed the SEpaniards 11) to t.he very limlits of the city. lie took tlte water-(workl s and cutt off tlhe water supply. There is no denying that he accompllislhed a valulable service in his caml:)paign against the Spaniards. lie could not have done it, of course, had not t:le Amlleric'anl fleet blockadedl the 1ort and cut off slupllies and re-enforcenients, but ie,(ot, the Splaniards corralled and limited the fighting zone to a comparatively small area. With all tlhese successes the insurgents got te impression tllhat tley were a grand army, and each week sawI thle self-esteemn of tle Filipinos grow greater and greater. Instead of wanting an American protectorate, they wanted absolute independence. "When, a little later, a series of rumlors began an industrious circulation to the effect that Germany was preparing to recognize the belligerency of the I'Philippine insurrectionists it was considered that a formidable breach was coming between the Americans and Filipinos. The next chapter relates to a spirited correspondence between General Anderson and General Aguinaldo, in which the latter said that the Filipinos were acting under the belief that the Americans were fighting the Spaniards in order to give the islands to the natives, just as Cuba was being freed for the Cubans. Anderson, who had previously in an outburst of friendliness, stated to Aguinaldo that America had been a great nation for 122 years and had never taken a colony, and that Aguinaldo 1<77Ng~ ~INTERIOR OF A CIGAR FACTORY MANILA Rasing tobacco and making cigars ar dstri of the hilippiies alost as itortat as in Cuba. Manila has scores of great cigar d cigarette factories, of which te accompanyig illustration gves an excellent ea Tte cigarmakers are mostly Flpinos tiougl a few Spanish are employed The dress for comfort rather than for pubaic Vew aid the annual clothing bill s not a heavyr TYPICAL SCENE IN THE ISLAND OF LUZON, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS XThis picturtesqule view is a fair representatsionl of a peasan.t llome tin Lutzonl. The thatchedl cottage with~ its fenc3e of irregularX stakes, t woan'LOL E t t S ' > < <. B < t t l l t < X. Ie~l-by, ei rtt7 1>-1il.i- (le vvell as t +eir 'ri 1 ft, a n( te - itt e 1 i1 t Aiing s I Ie I I I e I the background,,;ij -mnivdod Ir o g, V~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-,tA~w~al 1' m ii —,: iiu o~ '- y o- at-",~t"~,- t~-tet-vIoruIi"j)iiil AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 139 could infer from that what the American attitude would be, now said that the disposition of the islands depended on Washington. Immediately Aguinaldo suspected that the Americans were preparing to retain the Philippines and he at once made overtures to the Spanish governorgeneral to persuade the latter to surrender the city of Manila to the insurgents, thus forestalling the Americans. One of Aguinaldo's aids, Iegardo, was intrusted with the mission of communicating with the governor-general, but when Legardo reached Manila he deserted to the Spaniards and negotiations practically ceased. Then Aguinaldo began a most aggressive campaign, looking to the capture of the city by his forces. HIe was unsuccessful, and doubtless never would have been successful, considering the strength of the Spanish positions. "When the Americans entered the city the insurgents swarmed in after them, looting and pillaging. They established armed barracks on the Calle Real in Malate and extensive headquarters in the Calle Observatio. The chief work of the Americans began with the presence of the insurgents. The Americans and Spanish were practically allied to prevent the insurgents getting into the city. Then came an order prohibiting insurgents entering the city armed, and a force of about 300 were disarmed by the Americans. This aroused considerable feeling, and it was noticed that Aguinaldo, who still had possession of the water works, refused to let the water in the city. There then followed a long parley of negotiation, in which Aguinaldo demonstrated that his rights as governor-general were just about the same as those of General Merritt. The latter had AGUINALDO AND) THE the city, but the former had the country. It must have WATER WORKS. been rather humiliating for the American governor to find himself in a position where he could not direct affairs a half-mile beyond the city limits. "In securing the water works, a number of Aguinaldo's demands had to be satisfied. Ile sent in several conditions which had to be fulfilled. Among them was that his troops should have control and surveillance of the water works, and as long as the Americans remained the water should be supplied through his indulgence, but as soon as the Americans left, if the islands were to be relinquished or given back to Spain, he wanted to be in a condition to renew the conflict against the 1.40 41MERICIAN REMINISC-ENCES OF MANILA. Spanish with the same a ldvantages as he had before the Americans camle into the city. For the samel reason he demanded that the troops be allowed to retain their arms until it was definitely decided that the Spanish had forever and beyond (doIubt been banlished from control of the Philippines. lie also wanted a specified numiber of convents within tille city to quarter his troops in, he wanted the Spanish police wh(om Merritt had retained relieved frolm duty, tan(l he wanted (lefinite lilles established within which the Americans were to cont'rol and beyCoid which he was to control. lie demanded that the officers be allowed to wear their sidearms when entering the city, that lhe hillself be given the go)ver'nor-g'eneral's sumlmer palace at. Malacanan, inow occlupied by General Merritt, and that all the products of Filipino labor be aIll\owe( to leave the islands firee of duty. "Some of these demands were pr'eposterous, but somne were reas(onable and logical. Ie had a. right to ask the retention of his armls as long as the ultimate position of the islands was in doubt, so t:lat if tlhe Spaniards ever regain control he will be prepalred to renew his figlit. The result of his other conditions is in doubt. It is llerely knowni tlhlt outside Manila Aguinaldo's troops are sll)remle, and that in some (luarters Americans are prohibited fronm going. lie also has tlwo stlron'l barracks within the city limits, with big bodies of armed troolps. Witinll a mile of General MacArthur's headquarters it is estimated that. thlere are at least 4,000 armed Filipinos. lie also retains conltrol of the water works, but allonws them to be operated. Ite has not been given a pala,(ce in the city, and it is not thought that his products will be exemtlpt from duty. The Guardia Civil, which is the local constabulary, comIpose(l of men who have served at least eight years in the Spanish arlmy a(n are past masters of every form of corruption and extortion which their long post-graduate course has taught and fitted them for, are relieved and Americans assigned to take their places. So the matter rests, and will probably remain this way until the disposition of the islands is determined." Under the American military regime, Manila at night is very dull. After 10 o'clock the city is dead, and only the sentries are seen on the streets. There is no theater here, and it has been several months since the opera has been on. The soldiers are not allowed out of A AIlllC'N JlEiCNl 1ISCE NCES )01' IA1JNILA. I |11 (lj-til'ers alfterI 1( o'clock uIlless oni (lilty; thlie saloonis are closed and te i(ii. ll,lite( (l, Mai.lila is behin(l close( dool(rs. It is a;llolst. iImpossi)le tl) illlaglIe.reaIt c('ity of 0()0,000 being as quillet,a Iaila is aXt llnirh l. Thel Spalnia;rds Iretire to t he ir ITY OF 3IANIA IS 1)DU, L 1lll('s a;1(n tlhe Aicricas to (heir barracks. The fe(w rA NIG IIT. for('eign residents w\lo slpend their evenings alt t1he clu nIbs return home 1gl before()( the small hours. Most )people here go to bed caily becat use nearly a1ll the city's business is done in tlhe forenoon, 1d1 p)(eojdle get up plretty carly l)o do it. At 1(oo11 all theli stores are closed(l 101 two hoins, ad in HIte alfternooi those who can do so seek refu]i e f'Iomi t1he1 s8n beilea(;11 tile' spreadling bal colnies of their homes and d(o Iot appe.ar in lthe lsco.lta lunless it is necessary. And if it is necessary Ihey 11 It it o 11' IIti tI-I 0rr1lOW. h'11e( A\Ilierical sl(li1(rs,Iar keep(inll up a regu1lar routine of drilli,. In tIh eve'liniig at;ab1t)11 ( o('llck tfll (listri'lts of the city aind si1iburbs a11re 1el1ivelied by thle sndIi1(1 of 111martia1 music, It li shuffle of lsliiillUredl f(ootstleS;ll1u til(e 'rattl o(,f 11ar8s. IIIIIdeds( (of natives a1nd SpaIliards uri sually gaother to vatclh I hese dail d11i lls, which are in a way exhibition 1drills, ld(1 tilley d(1b11t1less wondl er at a 1ilit ary disl)l8y which I he S1pallisl l lpredlecessolrs tvidellly never1 inlllllged(l in. It dI()es a, Americanl citfizen )ood( to see (how superior in phlysique an11d how slrong' i leoltlhful devel)lpmen t le soldiers of his country are. They a;rte 11sally s( 111u1(ch taller tlln In tlle Spanllisll and1 insurgent soldiers that, thereo1 is 11 compar111son. The uniforms worn by the Amiericans arle sconimiewihat ugitly aniid unuiilitary looking, but there is always such11(11 a suggestion of hiealth ii aid st rentth aboutmi them that the offeise to stllhletic id(eas of beaut('t is iot noticed. The blu e shirts iand rou'gh blrownl breeches and slouch hats ive tlhell tll(he appe.arance of stag e co,\wb\os or( front iersime. Some(tin(es in ll e (venlling there are compaties of soldiers d(rillilg (11 thell( Luetta, 1and ait these times the sides of tlile parade p g1round are( (crow(ded. Over in the banldstand a couple of O(0egon soldiers occ(asionally give exblibit infs (of boxing. Thie cro)wd tlIht throngIs al'(roundllI the Iarenaltl duriiing th-ese(- displays of manly strength;1 i' cleverness of splarrino' ae a lways big and very apprlciati ve, altIughl tl(he )e(,ole here lusuilly marvel at anything thlat involves voluntary exertion, 142 AIIERIC.A'N REMINISCENCES OF lMANILA. Early in October Captain,iini of the commissary department was ordered home and left on the transport Peru. There are a number of circumstlances connected wiitl the (cas(e, leading to his delrture, that are exciting at good deal of discussion here. Tlhe story, briefly, is this: Wthen the city was taken it became necessary to invoice all public property. Tlhis included church property. Colonel Brailerdl, acting undel r (enleral Otis' authority, detailed Calptainll,inn to visit the ecclesiastical institutions and make a list of all tlhe val ilable articles us(ed il the churches. This he started to do, but in one cIhurclh he was deniell entrance to a certain room by the priests. lie explainetd as ldelicat.ely as possible that he would have to be admitted in order to follow olut his instructions. The fact that several articles of silver belonling to the church service were missing convinced him that they iwere being, concealed, or else were withinl tle room to whichl COMPLICATIONS admlission was denied. The priests still refused to IN A SPANISH CIIURVIWl. op)en tthe d(oor, saying tlhat it would be sacrilegious for him to enter. They snufgested t:hat lie go to another door leading from the street, and in tlhat way gain admission to the rest of the building, but in doing this lie w\ould have to skip the particular roomll he wished to enter. Captain Linn then sent for instructions fronm Colonel Brainerd, whlo sent a corporal's luard. On their arrival the priests opened the door. Several pieces of silver were found and inventoried, and Captain Linn then went on to the next church. He was treated with courtesy. In some of tle convents he would examine two or three of the rooms of the sisters, note the contents, and accept the statement of thle motler superior that the rest of the rooms were similarly furnished. In a very short time a. flood of protests came in upon (eneral Otis regarding Captain Linn's behavior in tlhe church mentioned. Chaplaiin Doherty, who was brought here by General Merritt, and who is a friend of the archbishop of Manila, wrote to General Otis a long and bitter letter. There were many things in it which displeased General Otis, and Chaplain Doherty was sent home. This only increased the protests that came to General Otis, until at last he ordered Capt.ain Linn to return to America and report to Wasliinlgton. This order was AMRIftICAN REIAMINISCEINCE S iOF MAi I,.jiLA. 1 t; the first intia iI.tio)l ()aptItai)l,iin h1ad t lIhat the incident was eW.ven un1 er discussion. lie natlurally feels hurt that no opportunity was given ]iml to offer his side of the story, but lie takes with him to Washiington p)ersonal letters from thel mother superiors of the two convents he visit(ed, whichl are high tributes to his courtesy and considleration. lie feels that he, last of a ll men, shulil be accused of acting discourteously towalrd a Catlolic ilstitution. lie was educated in Notre hDamet luniversity, and was gradllated fro() that celebrated( Catholic school. IIis sister is at Catholtli(, and his neXwspaper in Wabash, Ind., has always been marked( in its friendly relations with the (Catholic lchurc(h. Th(ere is a comradneship between soldiers whichi bridges all petty difficllties involving nations. It is a flamiliar sight to see' American and Spanish sold(iers fraternizing in the most friendly way. At the gates (of thte walled city, whelre there, atre rgards constantly posted, a little group of Spanislh soldiers, who have nothini g Inuch to do but kill time, mnay Inearly always be found. The Americani s-oldliers are trying to Sl)eak Spanish and the Spaniards are trying( to llelp themn ont, to tlie orea't aanusement of both. Between the insuirgents and Spaniards tlhere is no interch(ltange of friendliness, for eachl despises the otler, anil takes no) pains to colnceal the fact. Iomesickness is tle great and almost unanimous complaint. It is sweepii n like a s(courge fr(om one end of tlhe armIv to thle other, sparing none. ()fficers and soldliers lavte it with e(qual force, and it is thought that nothing will cure them exc(ept the WHIEN THE siglht of thle (olden (ate and perll)has a glilmpse of S''IEIIS.l~ll.SOLDIERS certain good American girls waiting to meet thelm 1ECAME IIOMESI(K. andl welcome thlem lhome. The realization hlas come to all with terrific forcei tllat they are misssing tlte pumpkin-pie seasoi]n, and the tli oulght is lusually followed( by a relaplse. In addition to this dlistressing reflection comes the proslp)et of Thanlksgiving day with no cranberry sauce and no football ganes. When all the Americans wlho are here or who have been in the campaign in the Philippines reach home they will have carloads of souvenirs to show their friends. Nearly everybody is picking up little Inementos of the war. Tlhe majority run to small trinkets, such as empty cartridge shells, flattened bullets and other things easily car 144 4 I1I 1OFCA I( REMINISCENCIiCS (O) M12NI LA. lied, but a few have con(ducted their looting witl Napoleonllic vigor. These past masters of pilla;ginlg will start hol)e wit clltsts and tlbxes packed with beautiful and w-onldeiful things. Tlihle Igreat prize tIlhlt every one seeks to oblaini is a genuine Spanish filag wclilch has been ill use. There hlave been vIery! few of tlhese obtainable. Spanllishl swords are also eagerly solgl.ht. l 'llhe coime 11Ma us ritles, a11) ribbl)os, pieces of shells, chairs, Spinlilislh crests, n1 tive Liies and( weapols, Spanish stationery, maps, books, pict lres, soldliers' bilttons aInd caps, paper weihlits, inkstanillds, 1marble tiles, medals, decorations and scores of otiler things. In somte cases tlhe loote{rs lhave cartried their lllllnderill propensities into the churches, but these installnces, ftortilllately, arc very few. AmIong the things which will be most interestingll tO t he people at home are tlle native weaponsl111s a 1d e tlna ive womii nll's wondell f ll needlework. There is a c(loth here wilich is Iantllllfactl tred of p)ill(nellapple fiber, andl is called pina clothl. The texture is as delic(ate as a spider's web and in the hlands of the women faslionled into most wonlderIful designs. I have seen small andkerclhiefs whlich c{ost $100 ) a])iece, and lace sleeves which run as high as.820 a piece. Wie a l Philippine lady of the better class gels Iall'ied(l shoe i1s(1li es wea-.rs as 1h(e wedding dress a costullme of native tlanufa ctulre tat reaches in value up into four figures. It takes lmonths to nake a l.ndkerchief or a. sleeve or a neckerchief, so nlicroscop)it anld (lelicate'(' is the fabrice. Considering the costliness of the filer kind of Iltive needlework, it is hardly probable that the soldliers will tlake home mlany trunkfuls for exhibition purposes. The great work of Americanizing1 Manlllila, is goingt br avely on. It is interesting to see how the hlnlumble na1tiNve is ad(aIptii)ng himnse'lf to I lie customs of his con(querors. Already -lite signs in tllhe AMERICANIZING streets are being painted( in Englisl, several An1erPROCESS ' IN MANTLA. 'eian papers are inr the entllsiasmn of infancy, every third house sells American beer, and tlh Escolta it the busy morning hours, wlen it i is boonming with traffic, has such a:u American activity tlhat one forgets he is so far awvay from home. T'1l' Spanish business houses are printing their advertisements in Englisbl, and that sterling American institution, pie, was among the first. AMEI'RCANV REMINIASCENCES OF A3l[NlI.l-A. 14., signs that Manila was being brought under Anglo-Saxon influence. In the streets near the barracks of the soldiers the e.vide.cels of invasion are mlost; frequently seen. The Filipinos h1ave b)eenl (quick to detect the opplortunities of the occasions, and the nulmber of (rillking placesx tllat have sp)ru ulllp, ] ill tlie last few weeks maks Maks anila 1,look like a I "booni town" inl its first yeSar. )ozells of littl(e b)as, e:( CM o11 a;lvecltisinlg thle presenlce of Aeliieri(cai b()everages,.are now il actlive (opera tion wlherever tle soldiers are. The bill-post (er, also, is b1)usy, and. it will inot take many monlthls of AmeI(:ricani occuplationl t)o mlakle the beautiful lEunetta,gay with big, noisy signboards, such as C(111cago lias 0o the lake shore road north of Liincoln park. I;Even now evel(vr fcic(e, lias its poster adve(rtisinlg so(me new Amierican ilnlllstry calc(ullated to sulpply 1a long-felt want. SanlCdwichl men bearing pla(calrds ariec also seen here( niow, moving in lo(ng, solemn, single file throl h l tie principal t horough fares. The i( artial fever is capturing all the children ill to)wn. Every niglit, whlile tlhe big regime llntal ipatrades sare wlheelling and 1maneluvering on the P'1laza ((de IBlagulbavan, the band pllaying, horses pIrancing, and1 the1 Lunetta,ga witl thr(ongs of carriages, tle little side streets 1ave thleir eveningi dr(ills in miniiaturel. The juvenile Filipinos, arIled witlh )anll)boo sticks anl( ranging in age from about three to fourteen, (are mlar(ching ulp aln down l and rilght and left with as much serious iltntnt as tlhe( great battalions on tle PIlaza. Nearly every boy in town knows the Amiericlan bugle calls, and the "retreat" andll "tattoo" are whistled at all hours and places. Batseball gaines are now a regular thing. A letaguet li as been folrmed, and on three afternoons of the week, wea-tlher )perilitt:inl,, a game is played (out on the (dianlonl of the P.hlaza (de EBagunibayan. Ev(erything sho()y happens on thlat i)laza, tlhe seal front of whichl is c;lled tlhe Lunetla. (Gre(at cro(wds always,gatlher to watch tle contests, andll the hurri.cal ( of cel(ers wh(ich greets a three-baglger, at a criiic(al l)oint is g(reater far tllan. tllose ch1eers -tlat gr'eetedl the plantin of tlhe Anmerican fltag in:Manila. Fo(r 1a momenl(lt tile blue-shirted man a tll e b:at is a greater h(ero tlanl Ad(liral Dewey, and there lhave been one or two gamnes played at the terminiation of which the star players were carried off in triumph on the shoulders of their admirers. The 14G t AMERICA,4N IREMINISCENCES ()1 IF MANILA. Filipinos gatlher arounl(l tlie fringe of i)people at thle edges of the diainond and wonder what's happening. If the time ever comes when the Filipinos appreciate and cheer the game America can claim them as faithfull allies and patriotic citizens. An exhortation heard on the ball ground the other day illustrates how the American soldiers are geltting on with the Splanish language. The coacher was talking, and what- lie said was sometling like his: "Take a lead, take a lead, there off second-get off the base —hurry up-there you go-take a lead-go, go, go-brunli, run, slide. Ah, malucho bueno!" The other day a funny thin, haIppened to the (olorado regiment. It was just after the regimental parade in the Plazal de Bagumlbayan and the troops were marching off the field. Up in a window along the street stood an officer. As the C(olorado boys came along this officer began to discuss with a small Spanislh boy in thei street the inerits of the celebrated Rocky Ford watermlelons of Colorado. The effect was electrical. A broad grin swep)t along the A MEMORY F CEMOLORA regi ment, or everybody who lhas ever I)assed through OF COLORADO '" WATERMELONS. Colorado knows what delicious nwatermelons come from Rocky Ford, and the thollght of watermelons to the Colorado boys was deladly to discipline. The regular formation became irregular, solliers were tlurning ar(ound to hear more of the conversation, and it seemled that there was imminent danger of the whole line being broken up. To tlem it was like sitting out in the middle of an endless desert reading about good things to drink; but the officer in the window kIept up his tantalizing (discussions with the small Spanish boy, who had no idea what he was talking about. "Rocky Ford watermelons in las estado Colorado, North America, nucho bueno. Grande watermelons, fruta de agua, mucho dulce.' As each company passed the officer worked in the mention of Rocky Ford watermelons, and each company became demoralized. When last seen the troops as they straggled down the street were looking back laughing, with their ranks and rifles in an outrageous state of irregularity. The same officer suffered for several days with blistered feet. This complaint has been a very common one here, a great mnany of the -- -------- - ----- hg. l 1| << ~~~~~BRIDGE ACROSS THE PASIG RIVER, CITY OF MANILA.d ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ '.~".. X,,5 This river, which flows-utto Man-la Bay, d-vidIg thre acityt the i;terlarbor wfhich shelters mnaty of the smaller craft. The harbor > X fi-. resenlts a bjusy aene ld the britige itself is employed bSy thoulsand~s of: p~-ople dalliy itl passi1Ag fromra one part of th1e city to another. This is the prinlcipal bridge across thxe river. _ I: ~ I *l I*_:;: l: I~~~~~~ CHURCH AT TOWN OF ANTIPOLO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS Thii placew fifteeP niles fitollm nalliIam is tile center of a eonsideratlie Spanishi settlement aol consequent comntuerce, The chief lbe- godsh lm.' ire':4, t'rel r, lsin of hem fortt)1 rope, n thef custlt1tivation o st)igAlr apl( tol AIIC1 I'.-tN R]1EI'iHNISCLVENCELS 01 MAINIL AJ. able in Manila are being sent. It is a lpopular fad to be photographed in uflniPor, with a ritle in a threlatening position. Many of the men h1ave grown m11 ili taryl must(aches and goatees, and look like dashingl soldiels, but t11hey slhave o the wliskers after beilln phlotogra.phed. 1In1 taklillg polssession of the l n isands in IPacific and Asiatic waters the United Stlates has acq(lired some new nationlal airs and songs to add to its limllited repertorvy. The Illa.waliilans have had a natiolnal llhymn of their own, and in addition thereto must be counted the large nlllbe1r otf native smongs which are indigenotmus to the islands. The Fiilpinos hlave a naiti{nal 1marchl, which was written by Antonio Comllias, Iland is the tune w\llich the insu1rgents lhave usel to inspire theni in tleil battles lagainst tlhe Spanish rulers. 1The llmelod(ly i, as asitmple as that of "Yankee ])(oodle," but it lhas plenty of animiation and swing, and thli chianlge of 1key in the refrain gives it variety. Problabvly it thas served the Filipinos' Ilpuroses wvell enough,, and if the islandl s are to be annexet d will mNake another patriotic anthe for the Unitedl Stlates. The new Ilarch dloes not appeIlar to have any racial chlar;ctcer, but n10 (lle tune could evenl su81'ggest all1 tlie v\;arios kinds of music whlichl the I'lPililpine peo()lels m1ust possess. 1lhe sp1cimens of native Asiatic mnusic whilch wer(e displlayed at the W(orl(l's Fair w(ere not of a kindl to tempt civilized comlipos1e1s a(s tile 1raw ma,,telrial out- o(f which to ntake natiolnal 11i -tis. T'le '"l'llilil)pine Na;tional AI ' 1'(h11 is tlhe tile only )of the inls]'urgents a;I11l of tlhose oAf tlic Fililpinos who have come under tlie influelnce of Sptalish civilization far enough to have ladopted tlhe IEurpetli system of lnotation. If tlie domlinan.t 1and iintelligenlt (elelment inll Luzon>, V\.isatas (and Miilidalao (onlinues I-()ito gro)w -aId acq(ui(5's c(lt 1('l of tlhe archipelag, lhoever, thle march 1ay have to be ac'ceptedl as the re)presenlt live tulle for all the islanders. Sonie of tille A\l'uericain soldiers at ManLila, however, lhave not been coiitent to:pass their tille listening, to the music of otlher people. A "Souvenlir Slong B3ook," published in Manila, contains twenty-five original songs and poems written by members of tli( SON(S OLF THIE Eighlth arny corps. The authors are men of tlie AMERICAN I SOLDIERS, lreolgular and volunteer recgimients of all branches of the ser vicec. Tle songs are strongly suggestive of the te(lium of the soldier's life in far-away camps and of the straits to AMEiRICAN REIMAINISCENCES' O! li, LiN il. 153 which lhe is reduced for aiIuise(ment. It may be notedl, also, as a uniqllue (ch1racterisitic of the iAmerican army that its men should have eitlherl the inclination or the ability to amu se themnselves in just this way. 'ITll verses are often roulhl alid imiperfect, but tthey illdicatie ta lil)be'al lac(llaint(1ance w\ith thle kild of verse which passes current( ll ill pop1))1la' song's ad111 1io littie knlack of ilit.ation. The colmpilationll eins \itl (a song 1),b (.larles C. Webster of thei Astor batter'y, whlo l;has xwritten Vnew worlds to thle popu)l)lar (fl,1,ege air of tlhe "'rodligal SL." I Iere tlare sollte of tlhe stlzals in \\hic(1h hi desribes the achllievemlent of "IDew) y, the King of the Sea^(: "A torpedo boat came out with a dash, It did, it did. It started for Dewey like a flash, It did, it did. Not a man at his post was seen to flinch. The commander gave the button a pinch, Let go his twelve-poulnders-olh, what a cinch! Sang Dewey, the king of the seas. (Repeat.) "All this took place on the first of May, It did, it did. Troops in ships were hurried away, They were, they were. Re-enforced by batteries -I and K, John Astor's battery sailed away, And they hurried them on to Manila bay, Sang l)ewey, the king of the seas. "Now, the four expeditions came in safe and sound, They did, they (lid. Intrenchments the Spaniards were planting around, They were, they were. Since the thirteenth of August they're planting no more, They've learned what they never knew beforeIntrenchments can't stop the Eighth army corps, Sang Dewey, thle king of the seas." The popularity of "A 1 Hot Time in the Old T'own To-Night" is attested by Burt D. Carrier of the Thirteenth Minnesota volunteers, who writes: 154 A 1AMERICAN RiMAINISCENCEIS oi 4. ANILA. "Come along, get you ready, for we're going to the war, But it's nothing new to Minnesota, for she's been there before. We're going to lick the Spaniards, who are anxious for a fight, But for some unknown reason they keep quite out of sight. CHORUS. "Please, oh please, Mr. Spaniard, (lo not run, For now that we are started we are bound to have some fun, And when we reach the Philippines we'll put you on the bum, There'll be a hot time in Manila that night." Sentiment and Parodies. That the American Tonmmy Atkins hlis a sweetheart at home there are several songs to show. George WX. Moulton of the First South Dakota writes: "I am lying in my tent, sweet Marie, And my soul with rage is pent up in G, For I know almighty well You have caught another fel, And your thoughts no longer dwell, love, with me. "When we kissed a last good-by tearfully, You but worked a girlish guy off on me. Oh, you sweet, bewitching jade, What a clever game you've played, For your tears were ready made, sweet Marie. "When I donned the soldier blue, sweet Marie, Like a picnic woodtick you stuck to me, And the smile you used to wear Was as full of gleaming glare As a sunbeam on a tear, sweet Marie. "How your cunning head you'd lay, lovingly On my bosom, while you'd say things to me. There you'd rest in loving pose, Right beneath my very nose, Swiping buttons off my clothes, sweet Marie." Some of the verses are frankly sentimental in a bluff, boyish way, like the poem by William H. Doyle of the First Montana regiment, who writes eloquently of "A Girl with Dark-Red Hair" who was left behind. AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 155 Others are merely versified "roasts" of tlie conditions inflicted upon a soldier by camup life. A member of the Utah battery dedicates a poem to "The Petrified H:ardtack": "There was hardtack from wars of the past generation, Which remained unconsumed till this late Spanish war. 'Tis rumored that some, which defied mastication, Were marked 'civil war,' or the stamp 'B. C.' bore. What a triumph this is for the skill of the baker. Indestructible product, defying time's tooth, But it could not resist the assaults of our grindersThe grinders we had in the days of our youth. CHORUS. "There was 1812 hardtack, And '62 hardtack, The old army hardtack we ate in our youth." A few of the verses are concerned with descriptions of the soldier's heroic a(:chievements, but as a, general thing the army poets refuse to take themselves or their deeds seriously. # * + * ** CHAPTER VIII. A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. Means of Travel in the Philippines-Primitive Methods of Communication-Native Sail Boats, Water Buffaloes and Coolies-Number and Size of Islands in the Archipelago-How the Seasons Are Divided-The Dreaded Typhoon-The Climate of Manila-How to Retain Health in the Philippines-Fever, Malaria and Other Diseases-Earthquakes and Volcanoes-Mountains and Lakes of the Archipelago-The Rivers and the Forests-Vegetables, Fruits and MineralsIndustries of the Natives. \M /\OST travelers who have visitedl tile l'1ililp)in)es and l-ost autlhors who have written about them, have confined( themselves in their own journeys and for their sources of information to parts of the islands that are quite as accessible as any Oriental city. Usually tlhe travelerl's limit has been a visit to Manila and a few trips into the interior of Luzon. If the tourist extends his journey to Iloilo and Cebu, with a few excursions into the country in the neighborhood of these cities, he departs with complacent satisfaction and the feeling that hle has pr(etty well exhausted the sights of the archipelago. Thlis, however; is far from the truth. There are more than eighty distinct tribes of the natives who form the bulk of the eight million inhabitants of the island. They are scattered over hundreds of islands, large and small, and wide travel is necessary if one wishes really to know something of the country and its people. It is true in the Philippines, as in every other country, that the traveler who confines his observations to the cities and towns will fail to gain intimate information and knowledge of the essential characteristics of the whole people. In the Philippines, more than most other places, it is necessary to turn one's back upon the cities and towns and turning from the beaten path, push into the almost unexplored regions where the wild tribes are to be found. In the study of these primitive peoples and in the wonders of the tropical forests one 156 A R, PI) GI.ANCIE T7' TI I Il-', CIJI 'L t., ()..-)7 wIill find T1111iple rl payIlient for the risks a:nd 1(1ardships 1he cert1il, iiy wvill be ftor(ced t)o lnd(lergo. Amlong tlhe islandsl, means of ('( llllllli'ti on i l 'ln'r lilllit('l 11ld( il!ia81]Iy ilistaneI (es prillitive(. letwn(' ('(' l e 111 ()r1'(' illll))l'tilll (cilies of tlhe, gr(o1il) thllere a1re ( illes of Spanliish m1ail 11( i 1 Ille'l'rcliit Sit(1 er('l's, iwhil;ltr'('d olerablil freiqulien]tl d11 ( ' eve(' ll c()1forili (' cmi('11111 il ic tio, buti til(le (li ilcni'1tieis II)]ti l y whe ('I1 o -ie alte I( 1)S to visi t1I he ite(i0' ofw ( le ] h i t'rer: d(1 less exp)lor(d( isla11(ls on to( r1ea ('ih lpo)ts where v(esselis d(o not (call. Nart ive( salil ols l s t 11 1151 lito II*ec leT1O,1 service '1i(d exl tree] disc(omllfort somlieltllies lnIder"on(ie. MAtNS T A V IELj. Thle c(17i1'ae rg0(18, (ev'(11 ill the VicinitV y o()f thle largerl towns, are usually in bad1) condilion, i1]mpasstable inll the 1 raiiy se;s (11, 1(1 little iliprlovedi ill tle dr1y. On many a. paiit, (called by (co tesy t ()t, (one finds it, illmpossible to trave(i even onI h(orse)bacl(k. Bridges are few a\lld fords frequently infested byy nlman-eating crocodil(es. Every traveler in the Phlilipl)ine(s has ultiniately to ellli)lo, thle Wlatel lbil'ffalo01 (0oo0lies5 lo carry himself and his ba.,ggage r to, or ct, oi(e, f or.) gcater co( n fort. lThe n1umber of islanlds in the archipelago lias:bee(n,givnii all the way from six hundrle( to two tholsanld, a surplrising varianllce of informaition which should be approximately a(ccura t(e. Tl e larer estilmate is extravagant unless the Carolines and Laldrone isla1nds 11are included in the count with tlhe Plilippines proper. If they are ex(clillded, the number of islands remaining certainly cannot count more ltIan twelve hnd(red, even if every uninhabited rock an1d salnd-spit that proj(cts tabove sea level be reckoned. The following is a list of the more import ant islands, witl their al)pproximalte area in square miles: Luzon.............. 41,000 Leyte................... 3,090 Mindanao................37,500 Negros................. 2,300 Sainar................... 5,300 Cebu................... 1,650 ana.............. 4,600 Masbate................ 31_,5 Palawan............... 4,150 Bohol................... 925 Mindoro................. 4,050 Catanduanes............. 450 The following islands have areas ranging froii abolut 100 to 250 square miles: Basilan, Busuanga, Culion, Marinduque, Tablas, Dina 158 A4 RAIPID GLANCE,T THE AJRCIIPIELAGO. ga"t, 8ull, (ulllilllras, Tatwi Tawi, Siqullijol', lalab"ac, Sibl)yani, Planaon, Ca(liguin, TI()lIblol, 1Tio(8), Bu rias, l ili rla, Siargo, aIld Polillo. 1llte t(tal lautd (areal is Iap)l'oxillmaltely 11-4,(000 squa(;re mliles, Iuzon an11 lMidanao includiilg m1ore than lhalf of it. Too ( IImucl( EXTE NT (I dl)eIllpenlllcnel ca nlllnot b1e 1plac:ed u 1ponl the foregoi> it ig )OF TIE AII..P.LA.(0 urs,11 even tllhough thley are tlaklen fromln Spa1)lisl o1iliial A2R11.(,1 H LA{O.,- estiiluates..The l'P;cific oceian side of the archcleiI-)laglho is so little known tlhat an accurate statement of area is hlard to be tmade. The extreme extent of the archileClago from north to south, counlting all the outlying islands and including the Sulu archipelago,l is about 1,300 mIiles, and the extreme breadtl about half that dislance, the limits of latitude being from five to twenty degrees north of the equator and of longitude from 117 to 127 degrees east of Greenwich. It is difficult to advise as to the best season for a journey through the provinces, for this varies with the locality to be visited. The whole archipelago except the southerly islands is affected by the trade winds. The southwest monsoon, beginning in April or May, blows for about five months. Then, after a short. season of variable winds and calms, follows the northeast monsoon for a similar length of tine. The southwest winds usually bring the rains, but the local conditions of locality, altitude and surrounding mountain ranges affect this nmatter to an extent that rules are hard to apply. A high range of mountains may makel weeks of difference in the beginning of the wet season. Rivers often overflow their banks during the months of the rains and extensive( floods occur, but even these are much less feared than the destructive whirling storms of wind and rain known as typhoons. The more outhlerly islands are virtually exempt from these storms, but those islands and channels where they do occur suilfle VIOLENCE great loss of prolperty1 all life flrom the violent hurr iOF TIlE TYPHIOONS. canes. The force of tlie wilnd is almiost incredible; huge trees are uprooted, houses are unroofed or calried away, and tlie stanchest ship may suffer destruction if it be in lt1e vortex of the stortm. In an ocean igroup extending thlrough such a dlistance, it is nece(ssar;ily true that tll e con(litions of climate vary considelrablyl, a;,nd it i. imp)ossible to gnieralize with accuracy. There( is but one p1)ace il ti!' ~~~~~n Y C~CU1L~I ^\\~~ X^~JOSS ROC, IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS Spain has not been able to eradicate Eastern forms of worship in the Philippines, in spite of efforts to convert the native.s by either peaceful or violeiti means, as seens most practicable. The religion of Confucius ilourishlies amiong tlhe large Chinese spo>lation, ad ther joss h ouses are maintaorned swith the same care as in Chilna. This is one of the more picturesqe.i ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ iiiiiiiiiiiii ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.,: S l __.............M1 '. ":''~ ~........... ~',:I'" ~A ~l _ ~~~~~~~~~~m..2. ~"ul l;~% " _ tX'X' 0'' 0 i. ~l! _ | I r~~~~~ 2 W g: gE WU a, l ii! ~ ~ ~ txl 1IWUL'"l6n I ~~~~~~~i~i!l- 11!11Iixiw~ulfMlll * ' tI g 0S W D 0s M aab * S l I ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~111111SE 1.......... EU,.,. I |,|IlWa i a a E g~~~~~~~g, g.,, W. a W'~1 * u. 1 saE wM Zay Welz,2Sr X. W>- e.X_ ~',,, ecI I iira-Ci. 'iaaX if i u, er. ~va. XX aat u Xjr. _2.X.,, S, IX ii az X2.XK.B............. W X~~ia.....,.r _.................. jX S. i|,,aV.........-i, ~g ~:!.... waa.,.*Wi......'i ea.,...;Cej g~a>ls X I* -I*jat xlElla:1l N Er.ala i<'gw,,., aEX * X X t' "' jXfi iX 2-.z0 '- 'i illl I~~il_ - iEVXsl~l~iil- _..1111 X -I WI t W _ i ' jE Xja H R 11 E lr ' SE,>11 W~lliSCX2 0>g-r, g..,r mr. l,v i,r,,,,,, l,_ v~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~ l _ _ gg RE, ~:e r~ ~ ''j gjgi~ ~ l.j r _.i a~l~r:~ i.Mi..:,ii 3 j j' _ jiri j - 2 j~.,.j, j 1 1 1 _ _ _ Illilil, r~ -! __6 1-~~~~~~~~~I ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sc-'~, ~ A I RxPIDI) G(,INCI' T17' TIlE,11RCHllIlitAGO. 161 islands wxlere reliablee templerature records have been keltl, (aLtd it is frio tihe observalions of tlle Jesllit observatory, in Manila thllt the followiing st altistic(s are taken: The lmeanlt an llml l tpelllra tlre il the capiteal is 80 degrees, tle tlllermloeter;alI(St. (nver risilng above 100 in the1 sliIade nor falling be(low (O. There is 11 1I1ntI in the year d1uring whiich it does not rise as high as )1, wlile tle itean onitlhly temperatures are as follows: Janlary 77, Februairy 7 S, brarchlr $1,,April 83, lMay 8, Juie 82, J11y 81, Auigust 81, S(8pteiber 81, (October (80, Novecnber 79 and D1)ecember 77. In addition to the fact that lthe lmean temlI0per-;at1re of the year is 80 degrees, falling to only 77 in the coolest months, it. mlust be relmemlbered that during mlost of the time tlhe humidity of tlle atmo{sphelre, is great, whiclh makes the hleat doubly trying. rThroigh tl he winter nlmonths thle nights are usually fairlly cool, but during the hot season thlere is little relief from one week's end to another. 1The clim11ate of the Philippine islands mly be wholesome or trying to AmIlricans, according to the place selected for residence and the local conditions, as wrell as tlhe care that the indivi(dual mlay be able to take of himself. Malaria is very 1prevalent in somei of the islands, I(ntalbly in Mindoro, lalablac and lportions of Talawan, Mlindanao and luzoi, )ut tlhere are 1many localities entirely free fromi it. ()Oe who has malde a sl)ecial study into tlle climatic condlitions as 1 1(he interest Amieri(cans speaks con(cerning those things as follows: "'I l;hve never yet experienced alt sea level a day HOW TO wh'en a white nman (11(1 enldure s(evere physical ex- RESERVE irtion without sufferilen frol tle h(eat. If onle is per- GOOD HEALT. manetntly situated in a g(ood locality wh1ere lie can s((cureI suitable food ant(d ood drinking water-; if he is scrupulously careful as to lhis diet, avoids excesses of all kinds, keeps out of the sun in the iuddle of the day, and refrains froml sever(e all longl-continued physical exertio,ll lie is likely to remain well, alway1 s Sl)upp)osingl that he is fortuIaite( (loiugh to escaple lmllarial infection. I knew an o(1 Spaniard whlo( at the end of a residence of tlirty-nine years il thle Philippines was able to boast that hle lha( not been ill a da y. Tie lad( always been so situated that he could take care of himself and lie had( d(one it. Blut 1(how is it with the explorer, the engineer, the man wlho would fell tilmber, cultivate new ground, or in some other way develop tle latent 1 G2 Z1 RAtI, I),A(;,l.VCl''I A2T 7TIfE.. IC.l',: U;O. r'esor11(:es of tlie cout' rllti? Any olne really exposed to tlie tcli mate llnder sucth circu'('stalatices will (ind it. severel.( ('lie cnot 111111101' hiS (di(etiVC atIl1 what tlle collIlly 'tv i ffordIs, and le will ' folirtiiate iideed if soon() r or later li.e 1does not stiffe' severely fi'omiw bowel illoI. lie will be I( 11e t 11ha( fortu, 11 fe it lie escapes 11181 (1 i 1, which is especi ally p elI( I -i lent. wher''e forest. 11nd is bei c ('1a rId 1o Xl tIew. ouv lId bi ( oke It. "(O)r work soimeti11(s m1ade it necess'ary for I us to visit localilils where fever was kniown to be prevalent. a11(d we came to look upon it as lone 1f' thlle Ile'tsslarli (vils f(' exisltence. A\ tlemplleraltlle' of 1(I0.5 was liot fo'il 1 able,' but it d1i ni t t'occa8si)l 11s aly al8'111. Af'te'r oI' thlird tip t to le 1eieahro I ole t I eperi 11' o 1e( 'lllbe'r of )our 1par.ty tocl{ tllthat. ial'k,oil tell c(onsecuitive, (lays; and I ay add thaIt, al1hullow,1 I have vrisited Alilndor 1-e teeilmes wit o11t-11er ite 1men tand have eachl tilme, had consideriable iiiuln'beris of 11natives il m11y eImploy, 1 have 11(,vt' yet. e's' (1)l 1 td Ialaria nor 1)'as ay lII other memn:ber of o)ur pa)rity, white or 118ative, 111O1' fortuniale. The traveler 1 soo1 l t 1 1 i t e 1 X 1 ts t r i X (, sev er:X 1I tI I, t l X 1e 3il MALARIT 5)01y lea' iis to reoglize( se've'al type('s of fever: o01e IN ThlE PIILI PI'NES Lr'('111'5s etvery t111 ird dlay, 8a1t01 1(r tevery secOfid day and a third. d(aily. If prop 11 ly 8 1(d el(er1etiI ally tak1 inl Itll (, allny f t 11les, liiay be sll 'et otll 1,t, but!l t 1 chll d eaded cll 11 -t iat ea l't i1 i8)sat is v riy t1 ligntll l d!t 4 ise;ase8, 1 1111 ill,, its coutl'se in a few hours amnd f'(requlentl 1 te1minalt in li wit hi black vomit, and deat.l i. Forltula'dlt-(ely lhI pelrn' i'is))5 i s V(','V 14('1 i l itl is occu',lil'' ', and th(ie plac,'es wIlere it i4s kI3own1 to exist a.I1e s 111111(ed l)Iby n at i a\ d 1 w 111d WlitIes alike. "it has been shlmowi in a niumber of instances t11at 111laria was due( 10 causes that could be rn(emedlied(1. Before Ihe timiie of (General Arolas, Sulu. was a fever (:e-ter. By iprl)i'o vinig tle drlainae, of the town Zandl by filling in low places with i 1 coal s511(1 1s(, succeed(ed in almost co('0 pleftelv stapt111nil' ou lt he dlise(se8. Still more strikil,' r('sults 'ere obtaiedl al - taa, il Tawi Tlawi i, bNv a-l oftfice(r1 wh(o 1ll1ad workedl uiideir General Ariolas in Sulti. 'I'lle Calison at. this poiltl had1 su-ffered telriblvy andt( t(wo (e(roveils ll8l dliedl 1l'hre, b1)11t after tihe forest was (1, leared away for half a, mile( around the blo}ck house and( the glround ll tilooiughly cle(an'ed l up, fever alino)st 'completly d(isal)peared. "It is 1unfort u11t1ely I rue t lliti (lie cliillate of thie Phiilipplilles is esq)-4 ,~! R,,I/VI~ (,'1.,t,\:(.'1',1 'I/' 7'1t/lI tN('tflI'I'i...t(,'(~. 11;:~ cially s'evere' il its 'eff''ct on white wl o ell n'llll a childrell. It is verv d1o1y ltfl 1ii il y juidgiment if II iaiI v sulccessi ve genlerati0ons of EuoIpa ioir A rical''ll ch('ildre(' cmlld be ea.(red tlhere. \"We 11s1t8 thell' ll I t hilik Iilecessarilv a 1dilliiit1 1 ( lo.(-I we la(vie ( here I s1rio s thlo ls It 1(ot, licessarils iit l~isulriioitalle, I1bst -11I 1o t Ie developmeo11lnit of tI ie r( uIt resoil t Ices Iof tis Iemarhkable (I1 lcouIr v. MA hir ia a i id otOWS( (1 no wherille 11awa 111 are ver y 1rne11 d and 11 uch resemiible the Ailericani lockies. In luzon and Milldanllo Ihere are fresh-waer lakes aiiid riivers (If considlerable size. T lIe 11a- via-l ioI)n of thIe rivers is Ir Iatlv iIiipedIed 1by shIiftilIg sIIand barIs at tll'heir oI()Iths, so tIt vesse fiiai ]e(lii,' 1Z or eI(),leven f'eet ica('l 11ist safelv eniter the1(11m. Vast area ts iiin ma v f th il( nds a,1re still covered (lswith Im iagili(cent virginl forests, 1l I lie iiat tl ion of, tlie c(untiv is miig ol1 st ea(lily. When a na ive Ivislies tio sit a1 1 fari lie c1lea Is a1 t 1v I he tirees on a tract (If the desired size, brnrus t4 heit, auid cultivates ( li "111round1 tlhus ltaid bare. So)ner o r laer h1is plIantation is illnvalded Iby a, tall, rank rass known as coon. \Vitih t-he( siilple iipllemlllents at lis (isosa lie cannot kill o 1 this stol O1' (^'viO 0 pes1, ho he aba il(1dons5 his oround (and clears imore. When the cowmi once gets a bold 1ting c(a8 (cmillpe e wit ( it, lanld the rIes ult is TKe great a(lt1ea1s kowlw I;as (o11tonales are (overgrown withi tihis alist useless 18rass, which lias little utilitarlial Vi(,alie. T10 Simel extIent it- is (of Service for t4ha4tch al1ld fil firewood, whlile at tlie (lose (Iof thle (dry season, whenll the 1natives bu1)111 ()V(e the cogonales, the freslh green sIhoots which spring up after the first showers providile forage for cattle and horses. Tlie a4stonishingly fertile soil of 1 Vmany of the isala1ds produces crops vei 11 after year witmhoot t-hiougll1 of art tifcial enrichment. CHAPTER IX. MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. The Fortifications of the Walled City-Within the Walls-The Foreign QuarterThe Beautiful Drive of the Lunetta-Execution of the Filipinos-Spanisl Society on Parade-Expenses of Living —Bull Fighting and Cock FightingMusic and the Drama-The American Circus-Horse Racing-The Water Front of Manila-Hotels and Their Characteristics-Windows Made of ShellsThe Lottery of Manila-How the People Dress-The Homes of ManilaEnemies of Woodwork-The Stores and Shops-The Cemetery of Manila -Around Luzon-The Farmer of the Philippines-When the Insurgents Left Manila. M ANI LA lis far 1 ltgrV\1 its oligiil(l b)ollindlrie(s as thltey we\\'r wlienll tlie (iit was 11allIled. The a(llciell walled city (oil te l( soull ti01n bank of( tfhe Pasi' river still complriSes thlle origiial liiits as tiey ere lolated 1 t 11(1llciel (11e1111S. l(Here tl('ere is I su11 e('Sti(oll of thle bsolete ortst ft iticl1 iof the lliddle a1'esn, the \wa1lls of iray1 stlone witli lp)al1rap(ets and bast ions, illmilOsilig e(ou1lgh a- d picturesque, but utterly 1111va ess,4aiilnt 11 derl art illevy. Fortunate it was. for tlie spanliards anld e(quallyf fortulllIe t or tlhe tourist who, is to coile, tlat Admliral I)ewey did i1i find it ile'e.ssarv to bombard th)e plae on thllat Aiunust day wheii G eneral Merritt's forces entere(d t he city. Oil thle nobthern side o( Ilie walled city the river serves as a mnoaIt alnd llon ( west v i ll(e wat'ers of lMal nila bay al)pprl.ch ll(l wIalls. ( )I tlhe oiler two sides oats have beeli (n stiru ted which can bei iilled with watler iil h11e event of an atiac. The last ime liev were emi1lo(yedXt was ill the-l ar withi reat lrit ai ill 1 2, whenl (eneral Draper 4'11])tr111( tIll(, city. T'e walls altoirether encircling the city mi1(esre 1110(1'e t11111t two Imiles in le('1it'l 11( ld re frol'ml to t)'wenllt feet iliick. A\11ciellt (c811111Oll o)f pic(tlresqu (111' Iltern 'lae 11i' 11moilt1d )II to)l, sol()1 of thllell dlatinl froml the end of ti he Il thilrt l 't'l c urv. 'The'e a, h1w ever, }. few ll(lmodern 'n1 1Us. 1;15 I G(1!l ff.-l?. JL.t tlNVI) TJ.' I SL.NlY ) O t 1.ZON. T/!e IImasoltv ry N >3\COLONY. N'S7 there bei' ng o professionals inll the co(uIIItr v. The atniittls a'tre very s1 l11 1, 1111ch1 afterl tlhl fashion of Almeric('in p( o 1)p>o nies, butl thle rtaces are popular alnd aftord excellent sport for the sociaEl world. Tlhe c lub ente t-, ins lilberally du ri'ng Ile race week. The wLater front of Manil;a affordjs int('erest(i and lpitures(qu sights for the strangl'er. The anc'111orale is usually crowded wit l st.eamers an1(l sailing vessls. In the riverl, u1e ar1go blarges or lighters m1ove slowly up streal1I1 conveyin freig ht frol tlhe vessels in Ithe ihaIrbor to t1he warehous(es on shore. AlongI' tlhe 1)an1ks of tie river are the smaller steamelrs, s(,llchooneIls and ot'her:raft fron the islanld provinces, -which are of suilliciet:ly light dlraft tlo cross tlhe bar and reach the docks. Then there aire 1111ge c(aloes, snmall d(lu-outs, ferryboats for Cavite and Iplaces up the river, so( tIhat tllhe scene is always a busy one. WhIen the )passenger lanls there is the same clamor for r tle privilege of driving lhiii to-) the lot els thI at results froml ca>bmeln's rivalry the world over. There are tlr(e styles of carriages for rent in Manila. These are the two-horse c'arrluae or bI)aro(,cle, tlI1 quelis and tlhe caroinata. The carruage is the eminently prope) r thing to take. The quelis is a little square t-wo-wheeled traip, with lthe driver perched up in front:and seats for four inside. Thle (aromata.a or native cart, with its one (dlapida ted pony and rope harness, is a top-heavy, two-wheeled institulion which continually threatens to overturn. Thle driver ri(les inside with the passengers, somletimes sitting in their laps. AIlNI/li AAN) Ti/,: 1/.,AL ') 0 )I 1.FZ O '. There tre N -1n1ions hotels in MAnltil; INithII varvinl,' dee,!es of exc(11le1ce, ilit 11t1 110m11i ' o \ s isIf t11 (a'X ( e i r Al Ileric' tI 'rv('i'le' whloI is Il i lvi liig to i) Illt lip witlh Filipino cust1mlls,. No 11doubt all Allet icial l1otel vill be olle orf Illte earlislt 8114 l im ost prlll, l ibei vent11,ells a ftl r,p4'ace, is 'I ss ir,1 (ed. ''lte,best hotels, ilft II O l S AN) thei1 city v a're t 1 II oh.] d, Oriente and Hotel d!I (1< 1 Fu<,1 QUA l'ITY ('iffilr (of whlich wvill lsv(T il onsw HI( somhlinL' bethte is:iS Iotol d 1, Ml!id, II, 10(ote 'l( lTUiiv',rsat 8l( La C, atalantl 8, 1I1t' tl(I l,ext II Ti' 1('o Io('r a141d l ldliy to be considerd l le( A]li(,ic(a 1 llt rave'lr. A\s,a resumt oIf 1th thre at of ('artl 1hqua1ks, oIe s('14doll 5'5)s lildiwn-s imlore Ibait wo sIN oi('5 hiI a111d the Ihavy Mile roofs forimteriv il use haI ve 144 '11 rola (Uced b1 1 IV i (1 o onesI (If 4fal v anIize d i ro II. The conse(i( I oIl'nc f o I! iis is tl i t ell ll'll within the h! lse,, radialed from the, 1oos, slSometimes'11 beco1'1es inte1se!'o'. 1Window livi,8S i litle used' il te o11' ses'. Litlle s ( Ires of tra 1sil (It oyxsl er sh ells '(',de II iSteaId, wict 1 soft en t1 IIe 8 Ire of Ite t 11rop1a 8S1. 'I'e sides of upper stories il tihe houses are ofteni construtel'd al1most1)1 eit ielyL- of frames filled xwith 1115se lit14' se11(11 so 8 a1',11 g(ed I 1 tdhat 114)II(Ie c(1 1) sli d bIack, 11118s I I Irowing varialblv in Iite s)co11d story, the girolid flo4 bein 1 ugsed for servanis' 1q1a11 els, s118hops, ofhices or st1oe-ro1msI)S. Most of -the streets of Manila 8r1 wre-tch(d'i paJved or not ptaved at even by vi']ks s1spei1ded in disies of 'cocoan1t oil. lThere is, lowever, an electric sli vslt svst', which will (clL, STREET is,' t1 (lIHAIR'TERhe exfended ra"pidllv. Dim in utiive set r c('lls, each It (rIawin by a siltgle pon1y, 11111 on tw vo differe'l1t lines into i teI I, 1) '1,rbs. T'i'l' lprilcilpal busitless st4reet is 11t'I Es' 'olta, wvleI'r' I te 8148ani sit, "French c nd111 (eirmtan stole1s are 144It'd. Thl(e have cV(11ried' lair a5 s'sorttlments of 1u1op'an 1oods, bu) ithe prices have been hith on '0ccou1l-t, of 1('e excessive' ilmpor d'i. (Tliei's. Ic' ( 'IT i IIiese shops, on1 ill' t other h1nd, ar' most18lyV f 4ound1 o tIle ari, ono1(1r it'1r'lita 118 uilsiness sI reel. T'll cit YV is 'lItirely wit t ad e11 ('plilatie systei( of d' ailtagoe. (anlalsk i'a1radia'e 110o11 14he Plasig rivO'r in variiou1s diret ions and iItto thIIese I 7-(.A.L\./I VI1) 17/11 / I.S..IJV) 0F L.UZON. the tilt i t t e i v ci isdumped wheneve 11( ii it is 1t41 allowed o 1() 1((accIIIla e about mt e h1 i I. The 1an1ila lot(erv is onie o)f Itie Ino1a l)le i nstit ut tio11I of tI e islands. The SpJal' ishll e 1oveIinme'it i;ias dlerivedl irloml it an an u(111 ~:l;prfit of half' -i milliol,1 (d(8lars, while t he ic(kets have been distributed 1it only, hirowil,4)t,1 the archipeolago, but in Iolmlk(mon1;anl( aloig the (lhinuia c(oast. The iln, or1n l:lal i lllll) ist in('S t (i f 1 Ie ililiio, I is thus I fsteredl aIid; ian a poor fellow sjpedls his lsi (cenIt for lottlery tickelts a11(d tlihei g^oes 1( jail for illt pavig his alxes. Es;matei( of ihe ippulatio of Manilal v oste f tv e' varie l 8;11( doubt;'fuIl. The IIIos It 1Ili' he'', i lc() I illlast (!t'(1 ss i however, places I he I totaI 81 lppulat jion:It about I800,000, (4 which 11atI ives 'i:I'iuber 2 00i000.s Thlle Chiiel e c',reditedi wit il 41,00' ('1 1 l lh reiainde,-i I 'the: l 'i: ese ha It-breeds 1 '),000, IIhe Sp l lis 111 Spa 'sh ll'el l )ii, lt, ' thIe Spanish hal 'f-cstes a140111, 88 s IaI,), 8m1vn(I tihe E: I:o.)peaIIs and,: A, Ieiichans o1iler Ilhan Spanish about. 400. Most. of the Spalishai ale ariv 8,1141d navy oflicers, who must dress in uniform, but i unldess thfiere is somnle go(4(1d r1a8sonl to the co1trarv all E1urp1ea0s1 wear white dulch suits over very thin ii iulei 'vear. The (h i 118 Iman st icks to his nat ioal os ((4t1 mIe, while I I peopIle (41 Ii xed 114)lood 811110s8 in vaiaIVblv ado(jpt I the 11811 VdcIress, wIi f(or 1441 (11 (e44111818 s 1t o haI, shirt, pa1)1aloo1n,,s 811(d slippers. The dress (of I liae 1 om11i wlen is verv preltv when I -ood 1a81 tera ls a1e used, 11d so) well 8141pted I( the climte thot 1Imany ELlo4)eIan 11141 A;tericain,women adop()., it I'mo their home attire. It co1sist1s (41 -a t1hin wa ist, 1 le thl, i 1 wc1 114 (III iI 8,With I ii i ge 114it ' sillg leeves DRESS OF 8 111(1 4o W or (ss Iuhihlv e(IIIlbr'oidlere(d white chemise THFE NATIVE FILIPINOS. showing ho i h(-1g 1 am81a; 8 large kerchief folded 8a1ou1 1 lie heck wih en 1ds (18(14ossded anid pi11ned on (11 Tbreast; 8. gavly (co(l(ed skirt wvi ith 1mlog train8 and a s8.(11re181 of black c(o)1 i diawin tightlv aroullid t1he bodv from1)11 waist to knees. St oc0k(iIIs are 11(o1I worn as a. I- he a111d t he sli ppers \v IIicI t ake hI le place of shIes IhIave \iio heels a1( 11(d Io11 )ppers exIeptc for Ia 1 1(4naow s1ri leai (4 er I 114 Ivev the 1440s. 11 is 811 It-l 1( walk iI I Ihese wito i it losing Ithem, 1)1t t he natixe bel los contrive Io da(1811 iC 111(11 he8 11 Ad4ee great IIlv caglilledh if i Ihev 1(s4 their fool-gear i 1 (4le 14pera8t ioI. MlanI of I lie Mosta oI r 01 h1lf-ca1ste Nolmilen and girls ar.e xverv alt rat AL.NII,,A ) 7111' 1KXS.l'!) (F IJ/)N. 17 7 li n, 1(1, li;ke the IIai ive vwoime, tl hey hae bea( t if IIl h aiar, wvli ch t i nfr lleq ently 'reacs'l'l t lIlheir h 1eels land (i w lich tllhey alre illo'dillately proli1. hl'lev a1lso( take lpride if] s flel t 'el, ii ty hap 1el,)} to possess i ell, and it is 1(t 1 t f all IInIsIal to ) see slippers wIlich are (quite t(oo simiall for their owxer\\ s andi l'eave so1iii (If tlle t(os ldanlin 1 helplessly (t1 Iside. OI a1 c((4)lII 1 ( l1( (i he lim1 f, w i i o n i e ie I ii.( l i( iII i ii; (l l if( ll(, ni"Ily11', e 1avyblo(lX w1 1 1 (ll(a I f lr 1h li lakes a ip 41 sista ill the lliddle ot thile dav. e1(als a1 1 -Ind busil(ess alilke are arrai edl tIo suit ilis cuI(lst a11i1 thie holirs (of labor aire notit burdensom1 1 ill an1y cllin. C(offe)l and fruil are served iII thlie earl x'y m1oriuninu. Al exceediigy Hg li'll breakfast. several liot (disi(s, is taken at Inoonl, 1and diniler is served atI S o'cl-ock in ihle evenilng. In defeence I lI he ear II( iale a- d Ihe tphIvoon, aIrchi ect Iure i I llt >'( q ('l ti~;ll~l~ tIIl l t X!,l,(,,,x ll; f, II Ilj'(1 With 1 I ltt iV S ('111d, (C'1 t ~t -l0r 3 >11 iMAXIA)I*S. wis. ian('(lt wyitli mntives, a ld a grat many prioiinllet I'lili])plin mIerc'llants al(l lIwyters were on boarl. Aboult eih tiv representaltives flrom ditfferent parts of ite P'hilippine islilds were iln 3I;Malolos to re'pres'ent their various (istricts. The tow vi waNs (de(oralted with inslrent flal's of all colors. Any (design thlat remotelly Iapproached(l tle rel1d and 111blue of tllhe true1 tf1ag was Imalle to serve, a1nd everyt lipa llht 1ad its rudely siiledl flag flo)atitngl out fromi tlle blananai. an(d p1al11 tees. (Clg're.ss was heSld ill a (.lh1chli. rTle first session 'was short lan(l not imposing. Agutiiialdo ( iln s\allow tail wial inid a dlizzli sliit frsht, t called the meeting to order, rea(ld is address andl t hen retired. The session 0was adjourned unlitil the followiIng d(lay, taml timlme given the neemnbers to di(s(cuss the articl.es of thle new c(onsti lttion. 'Through() the courttle-sy of (lther A neriitcanls were rivenl ianl albundant luncheon. Speeches were nmde by prominent. members of the coong-ress anld every expression of friendlship \waos malde. It was lhard to realize tfhlat tlhe( day before the American forces had hlilust the insurgents out of the city of Manila. Trlerl( were loudl "Viva An(ericanos," i andl the guests were made to1 feel that they were am)ong friends. No peop)le are more hospitable than the Filipinos. At one time during t lie lunchleon a Spaniard from Manila, who was co')nnected with a business house there, was arrestedl on the street near whlere the Americans were located for attempting to arouse public feelingl against the Americans. He had been circu A.I/l. I /..\7I) 7'//11, /.SL7t,/\'/ ('I l. / /` V' 1 sir ltini wild storie(8, teidin 'l( to i)inillii thl e o i re iniioran It naItivxes a "a i lii tlie visitos, s, t Isb iiisI i i tt ides (ii l Ii is immei idil, I ( a IIiS t. The lasii' ballnd was in Ma1 lo(l.ds, and tI he cit v looked a ill tll' exI reine. I veilrted init a plhii l' of 4onisilderaib, l le l g-al11deur. IIere he 'lic(lil eeived del(4a11(tes11 1i1 a II (1i(1s with tilhat seleile, iii]p jhicatl1e loi lic 1h 5 is So p(eiiIl'it lr ll (11(1 i;d ( tf le vi'll vi l i(' (I e l d 'runlls out into Ma1lila bayl ill a lon, ipeiti nslaf i N,hlichl iii I 111'11 li vidl( s ilt()N t\w ) smna (lle'I ' Ones| poit i towardl the, ma,, t 11nlant 11d. This is Hie site( 1 *1i01 E; ANI) TOWN O1' of the (it y of ('avit'e, whlichl, besidles b, 'il,' 111the capital T,;]( 11' (, t llie p ovin;ilIce, a lso li, s been I tlie, i,tli er1 naval sti aiion of itle Phililppinlle gov(-lrllienilt. Ilere was 11he' Scele of t' le, str111tion of the Spalish fleet by tihe Auiieruic"ani squadlonl 1111 der A diilral l)wey. 'I'The (ity ov (,avite is laboit six miles allnl ai lhiilf i'lfom MIllanila allnd is connected with t lle capitall by freque11 t fel-ly)(boaltls. Lizmni, wAitl an ailea of( 42,)000 square milnes, ili'lldes ni(ore thall a tIhili-d of ilie it.al exit ent of lithe land siuriface of t hle lPhilippine isladilds. In its Illotherl(n pollion a:re extensive ihaillins of lofty iv Illlointails withl ma;i i1 v(lc;,llc( l )l(ks, acl tive a1, l illnterestill(. O)lle (f till eil, tOelie Malv ti v\Ola o111,) iii Albay prl'vil('('c, is a peri'fect co('( (' 'silln to a heig'it!()' Illl( llail t(l tilIolIsandl ( t. T'IlIe vo lalla o of 'Ta'll, I on tile ot ilI,I lIliall, iiI Iie sa; llii, i s i f ( I I of t lie lowest actlive v 1 olca noes I k ) own. l I u 1zon are r1iver and b1le svst (111s seconld oll v to t hose of 4 Alidillndanao. The!io (Irallde de Ca (,'a!vaZlll whlich ll ises neat11' llcenter (' of lle island, flows illto tilhe )((iI at. it e ll( n lit(lllrn exiletiit andl lldr ills 3ll ifilliels ae Of "Ie ferl it v. I lee is irown thle be'st toba cci 18ised in the alrclipelagio. The rivir is na vigable for' soile distailce, ltholi(.nllOh e the r aI lithe l o1111th1 ollstr'licts the (ent111(ance forl st'.lea1lers of N, (1all tlen fee(t ll laft. lThe Pant11( Iriver als)o rises ill Soullli 'alaballo mIotllltalill, but t1o1ws ill the i, (oliosite direct ion, empiit!viln ilnto Manila bay by Ca (delia withl more thal twent v mliolits. 'he' low groi ( uldl Al \'l /..l. I\/) ll Is XI.. \) Ol l, AZ)ON.:lon, l its Ibal;ks is 'extensivel ' llt l lcultivt 1 ld produce(ls 'ood crops of l'ice 'd suall ' (a le'. The Laellilua de IPlV,, lhlicl is but a few miles illlailll t'rol'l Malila, is the la est o I of I ies I I t e iI I t Iie a( 1c h i I, al t oug l (e of the Alilldawo lakes al)pproachl it closhely, ill size. I ts ILAKE4S ANDl "! Iat4est, leii:ttli' is t\weiltv-li\e mile(s andl its (gre1at'est LIVUZON 41SN). OF breadth It t( wetl -one. I t emlpt jies uint o Mailali bay by It l ' asbi 4 I, i, e IIhi rli s eparates thlt I,e l r (' p t, 1 (io' 1 f tIlie c(aiital 11111 fil (1 l, tan isi I nall i a- le1 o te4 Il( I lake flor s111ill, I1;at1 )' tlitilels. l ike t,ak~ loiiio l o,!iltl tli e I!4(o1 1 1,(1)' 1 o f liicli risesi l f t i,,l Iii Idl lt 111( IIsI i ('L f'll t(4I(c, i1 tby 1('(l.o ich bielil'ls Thi(e natItII ra I res ( 11r s I. IJf11iizo a1le (I11)11Mio115s. ich d posi)1 s1 of L 0 ld and (otier valuable miuierals have 1m)Ig been known to exist. The s'oil is very,ipod('ive ai1 111 i ields Ithe gIreaI l, p1,art iof t1,he s,(;ar raised inl the arc(hipelago, tI(ogther wt( ith I ieip, coffee, ((ac(ao, vice, 4to1bacco, adl i fa c, all 11(1e I1or import ant staple pIod uc(ts o;(f the (olon1.1,u11zon t is the Imot popllous islaid of all tlie Philippine artchipel go, s;ole estimalt es aos t)he tln111ers of its inIhabita'Its 1runningf as high as >,000,1000. The most inmportiant of thle itnumerous tribes into) wTieli' tilhe Ipeople are divide(l are the Talalo(s and the 1loc)anos. 4)Both are civilized( and as a. ule olrderlly, although Iri alildage is 114 1111(1111o11mon ill lie TaI 'alog territory. It is fro)lil this t ribe tihat- t ile greater part 41 A guiInalldo's sultpporlt inl tllhe( inisu Irrecet ioI ol lIe Filipinos lias been draw n. In a Later cohapiter on the people of the IPllipijpil.nes, miore detailed illnforlmation wAill be ilncllided o(n the aces ilnhabitilg tIShis island. rllThe absence of 1proper railwav flacilit ies is 11(41 aS oreltl a hlandicap in thile Philippilnes as it might be ill soile othiler (l ilit ies, for t1he relimark-.1ably irreu da rll coa st-lille and11 tlhe extendedl interior waterl syst-t(e11s enable tIhe traveler to r a1til the greaIter part- of tIhe arclipela)go) by boat. There are little, lilit-dr a ft siealboats whic 11 o a( liost every where11 and whic chare ver low fares, while uipo every 1na viable streaml, lake and btay are simall boats whi( can(ll be hired for anll inllsignilificant A st eaimer runs from Manila northward aloI r the west coast of Luzon 11(nearly to (1Cape Bojead(41or. At any one1 of several ports iew traveler who is willilln to Ifl undero (liscomforlt may be 'i nI excursionl AI.JtVII V i I./I) 1'/11A ISl 1.\ 1) () 1, li 'ZON(.)V. 18? intllo t:il' ilteiil f t he islall! (, X 1where scenery tof ("ireatt: I Ity v will Ibe follild 111Il a1rliv8 11181111e('sos 811d (1 lstf0ll1s 111; 1 st Slludlied in ti lii,ios1p il|itiive,^ <01(1idt0Ion. TIlhere iS V(TV lit t]( (1dl8 111 to, the 11( t eler i tll xte eoxt len Ie 101 il tlle co1ast, COe18ITIi N(S fori tli1e nitiv(, s;1re lispitblel t, to the limieit of tll il T!VV' E il. il('i ls;111 (ld ite d(l iloe. T' e c'011111 Y is little cultit(d I b1 civiliz iedet(s excep(t ill thle 1111e "c(cessible Jrtions, Ind (lppot l'l il i 'ms f l' develo'e'l nlt. by A \ ''ine n' (c pitll and e' '''gy a'e e,'noous. CHTIAIITEII" X. ILOILO AND T-HE VISAYAN ARCHIPEI-LAGO. l 1tandlids of the Visayaln Group —llsurg1en t Compli:cations at Iuoilo-The Journey 'from IlManil a to PIanay —Arl-ival at the City-Critical Conditions-.Cormlllerll of Iloilo —Neighboiingl Townis of Panay-Cebu alndl It; Hisntory —Nat ur.l Features oi' Painy-The Island of Negros and Its Products-Siquijor ---Sama', the Third of the Philippines-The Town of Catbalogan. TI N ll I:l ' oga,1ph8lilcli:l '1Upi, 1 (L ofIl tl'e P'llilippilie islalids, tile' \is:ayal al'llila(lgo lias I ill'.' p tlce ofis WI, its u a i it a;e' tfo{liul the secondi 81nd t(111(1 (olfleric(1ial cities of tle Pliilippinies-Iloilo a1n(1 ( 1ehu. The Visvaaili oill le( s dietl y othi of( thie $'reat is'ilad( of Minlida( o 1 dll sotih of Luzlon, 8ltlloiLmhl it is I(ot cllsi(l(ed 0( ilu 11 all o(f t lie islalIl(1ds dil ectlv sot thi f tlhe wester' 1 Il,tioll o(f Luzoil. Th11 Il)ost ilpjolt alit isillds of the r l1ojll) ai ('l aalliy, t onll whichli is Itlle city of Iloilo; GuiinIorks, Neguos, ('elu, Poliol, S minar aid Levte. its ilmplI)rtalcet in tll Spancish-iis',g'elt A p(lli ' fiatirs. After tthe (8 cpt ume o((f M ail ca by the America) fir 1 ces, 1 oil( )1 <8 s, he se t of S) 8 isl govern,' ent in e ll il i ilippines. It was t len sllrroI'illded by it1le inslur en"rts, who b)esieged Itl(e citvy uinil tlie Spfnlisl collllltider sur11 renldered( t{o the ml. lThis situltioll01 was a colsilderaltble piuzzle to t1-lh A melilrican authfoitifes inl tfie islald-11 It placed tle inIsullgeint forces in io"'ssse sioll of 4lle$ secom( ld c'ityl ill (lhl;licilipil, ()1,, ', \itll;n11 arts ofthe Phlfvilippine Islanlds is nlot bly an fvearn,, devoid of omlfortsX T di gtlix I to thfe fi -ArwHi)ll Sirt "i S, thle 1be-lltie, -,f t}<-pic- foliage 5-4tz vegetnfti~l Ifre 'I'lled t if its tttr< ti..r Whe r ugar ne is cultivated. ther in the isand of theE or West Indes the proes f reparing t fo market is virtuaty e some, The cone most be run through he mavy si i hich irush it and ra the soee iot of whicsi maoe, leaving a dry o"" as rfu Tse i rrr as ~~~~~g *iiqnFj |,.S j.CflII11j0 X j0., 0 j X,:..:,ithiCE' '; Ii~ I i i g I - 1 IS!1.i''' i:>;:;-t1a' 5 lx'';wX:sI ~ ri: X f '~~ "i Or, 4 A"i,'l,,S,,_gII I X~~~ai * 4:; S,g't.C W;0A: 0Mt tX0 S 5 9 i| '"CI~i 'i,E _ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~? ~li~ "~"-:;:,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ _ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~E I~1~1 ~ SY1Ft3E3~~~~~~~~;gF; tso]t[L8~ M (14i X~~~~~~~~~~n~,,, Th tsi~l~tftX thp Malav trlh~s are delleate of form an~l feature atld ulore attractve tll"1 t~lseoFMogolax tpeofwhrt f~aly refoll31 n ll llkilppile*:rre tl 3~ ~i rIsi w s 4 *vllose potralt appers tlerevvth tlas al autllstr Ot,, ~t3res Ot I1. O()11.0.,AD iV) 71':II '' l 'S'I.n i'.t,, IH( '1tl'il..I(;(). I}I'. tIhat tanl obj,(tioIl lla( beei a{lv(1 rV'eall'ille ' 1 oi r llldlillg. 11re Spaniards on boa'rd, who were dela yved in laiidling, regardednl us wi th p)1011011UC(' disfa. The ('cIptaill t1ien came to 11s and throul,(gh Mr. Ballfour inlforlied us 1that wet would WEN AMERICANS IV!E.RE lhalve to plohlu(ce passl)88'ts aI(l official clerlelntials UNWELCOIME frDnom1 (1eneral Otis. As we liad itnone, and~l, in fact, (ad nlever even(Vei Ibo(ll tLo hat ta helre In ig t1 be a necessit v for suchl th-li-s, w\\(' beg(IanI to entliertli tt t lie Is)"'pec(t f lein i1L c(411lhle(dl 1(t o gIl la N-c to aXlila. without landing..A ste('lll 11111(c11 finiall1( caeli ll 1ot of tIlie river a1d1 bore lowIn oi (o I lie BuIlit ail. PI(1'se Itly It Siptalisih (llic(r ' (calle a.0oaud1, andl 8a lolt,' l1d (eare'st co(vesation ( as held8 1 betweein him a1 H ie (81 iept8ill. A ft er somite Ilinutes we -twev infomi 'l(' bly 1 1'. Balfo(ur t hat it wo1uld be nellcessart for 1us to get "( )(pliilmission frmll Ihlle goveror-general allow11 ing usl to 1a 11(d. I eI h1(11 111N1-(I elerel(1 1f S(ee I Ie I ( lli StI ((e )1 111 i1s lo s (I ( lea vIl) to obtain i t liat p I 1ii 1 1. The lan. I I I I I I I e I st ea l ed t o I te ci t y withl hilml 0 1b)ard, 111 it ws i('iced with smoie i ntelest tlat am,1 le c.arabiniero(s were left- onI the slhip, two posted at etachl ganlrway. There wNas a, terrific wait. At nearly v (; o'lck the vexsseIl gt pelrriission to proceed, and about (:3() she drew up at the wh1arf in Ilo)ilo( river. \We weret tllen illforlmed that w-(\e woulll be lpermlitted to 11 lald and thtat thlle ove'rno-(elllral ished to see 11s at once. We wsere allowed to land ou(r smallll o'(ao', ' and1 thr ()ull'gh tl(he (o'(lrtesv (f Itle 1)ort (oftciails it w as not examine(ld. Our cards were at once sent to the govern'or and we wvere asked to come to lhim early ill thle luoruililg. There were 11 hotels in I oOwn, bu t the Eln lish residents to(k us in wit I a kiidness ad 1 hospitalit v t I hat ) verwhelted us. Early the follo)wino, 111(r1 1il, a sil l dele((gatioI o)f OAf evric(lan was a ushered into thle pr('eselcet' of (oloveror-(enl(eral hlios at tlhe )ti(1,i:ial palaIce. The 'general is a lari'e 111a11 (If inll')msing imiilitary pres('1Cl(', and wa s courteous in the ex t rei(l. It was explained thlrough aln linterpreter that thle visitors were Amnerical newslpalpe r('lrese(tativ's, wVho were charmed with the beauty of the islands, a1d who wished Ibefore returningr to America to 11a1e a trip amonl thie s)outher( islaids. The general volunteered every courtesy (and 1offered letterls (of illtrod(Iuction to various ((overno ';n Mi ndanao and tle Silu 1 roup, but lie 1)9( I!()II.O AN'D Ti / VISA )' A. J II I.(;O. texplaille( that steaiiiers were runi very irreglllill ' il''''l;ll'l, a11nd that he didl nIl:t \watlt. 1S t1( \velltr1ll illt-) t 1ie ilitelrior, llitt of reogalrd f(,r our Ipe'sot I safet t. ( onditio)ns iIn Illilo) wevre 'critic'al. The inhalllhitallts were alm 1 )()0(,00( Mexicanl d(olla'os ()II tIhe Tlan. The Spanuish antlithoi'ties' exalmlledl tis shiplmei(lt vel( closelv. I)1' several v'ea s ther( Iials e1t1en a 1 la\ prolibitiing tlie circulatioln of tMexicanll d(llirs tof' 1ahle' lite 1han 177TT, and as:ilmong' the plresenlt shlipll(lit werl'e somle(d of a lat'ei dhite foi. awhile thlee was 5lgeat (18 anger tihat the shi1)(pmentt woild41 1be (c1fiscated by1 h tie a t Iorit ies. A ft er somite (1isc( 11ssioI1, suIppot) ted 1 v tI lie hih st anding of'I MI'. Ballfoir witr the S4paliili(ads, tIhe shipmeilt was Ireleased(l 1nd selit ba('k to Mlanila. There is all IE]nlglis i ('llub1 wit hi:1. Il lemblerslilp) o(f altulit twxienty-livxe, fouri or fiv:e 4f wotl1l11 01'' (a:111e a lls, six 41' ei'lt Englislh a111 tile 1'('st Sco)tch. Nea(l'ly all till,11 it'i(11s in Iloil(o lalpn 1 e Scotch. On1ly onlt (cafe of ali1 lwetenllsiolls c'14ld be fomnd, an111 (1 11a is purebl a Spaii isl ('cfe(, wlee dashli1l ( astilian oicers t t"'s en ('l t wvelve hours a (ld t t1(1 il how SagIast Ia ought -to have run 1 ltin' 1 About five mllles (ot from l, 111(4 is Jaro, )bunt it isili' )1' 1t (unced that way. It sounds as if it xwere spelled -arrow, and for the first day I.IfI.() 1,t I)! 111n I1,7. 1 F iy 1'AN. (i/'ll _I i.,.(,(). 19 ). two 1 I IiI4,lit. p)p'Ijvle w re l II' 1 i 11 o 111 t (he' i l isli s l' prepll'; r I ',V sclihol. L the i1o ), il t is Iw to f ilt it IIIi iI I I I t )oi(c1 l s lendorl, 1 111 il h'e blid14e' j Ohi (vi;l m is b e dw ad o a oowd waxlk in tlhe blizi1ng sinshlinie before 1a pe(1sol (al cquires [ w1 leso(me Il('1 fear of the mi61i 11 iO AND ITS.,The lohwal foei 1 resie (I I ts( eve e e -( ei r war — (,,,1 I II I W LV. '.I 3 1A I I 0 A iE ) IT P A C( '. ilg's (l txioi-,s '(,-ili ' o ll1' s11"I, ii i b utlit 1 ''e iFst. 1( 11i ll'tlt. is d l e wii' 1141l w t liW <1 141'I I t i I I L s I I ' II I1,1I w I i ( l I h i ('1 ' Wese mles 1 II' [('411 1 p o i; V 111 l oil ill J;ll h.1 (', I c re w\-,,)s ie ve I i II I rsdI v I Irl oI iI ' ir wlIeI we rlached lll il( ovl. A\ dlistlriclt ive,, siix 'cre:,S il exte(ni t wx Is l:idl (It inl irre l1I I aI 1laIes of 1 sl l1 s e( lt er lioise;s a di 1 S, e( e.l I 1 s 1 I Ieal 1de 1 ti \vc(iv s were lI'l() ' IIil' ). 8.1141 l) nd d w t lies(' lalne,,< I l(','Iliiill,':1 (1i SI O sok1 iln' '1I 'lmendl(l s Th('i, "r1'0.( e'(et1 1 ll4,sl ( \v:; iallis!:i 1 4 i' ilt n il (t' tlite dis(i '( ltoltl ot' it tle ex peliele v, t' ila I ' le most, l (l1 a', odleWrf11 wNe i'( ds, ot( es II e I'sd t( h b wol-ven( illn to I (lelo't I, 40 1)e',s Io fishll tLa] t', evetlr ], bee (n 111'OiI. w (')' 11 ) 5:l'4't 1 )11(5 W(1 i,(' (': 4,ie )'4 (]')1 i tir ('(]h ~( '1011] (4',t' ( )4441):('11 1 0' 1' (411111:t''i I t 'i t e ' t~'U)',l:0i i] 1 (' '41 1TM w:~,~ 41( IaI ke j,11 Iilk, I ( sup ies, aI s e,,_ s ii (,. I 5, tob'cco I l el s 44 ()f her (at 10, ive oIiIIlllo)41i ies. '114 weople weie exi,ewi 4' io iifrest' e, 8a114 mani of lie vounn I 4irIs were vei'y beaIti if Il. It was siran2e to see how general i ts ft as fo le woen I I 1 smo ke a lI to see tI what I a tic ci 1 1 gars t i r ftllci y 1a11. The ciars werei m f t 8u11 irof Ied a 's occasio) delll llded a oll,cf toba(lc(() co l b il wouindll:tboul t wit II a sI Ii ll', 8 d1 l t1lle (esu Il was, i I t.t the(' ('ext-mpo(ized( (i]'1 l )ked1t 1 lill(ke a( 1 ' i, 11', ed tor(II. The a1118 rle't lasted;ill 1d4'i;t(1e e ni and te(nll tl1e tJ1 liV4on be_411 14) 4o1wi1dle(' away,.r' 10112$ l o\\s4 W ltull at)I1titus 811d caoaliitis s8(t1 -tele(l otf t iro IIg'li tIs I Ii It Iv y, I11( at I I ' 'I iw th s ('cele I f (I r fIn ItaII ial o ) sits '8 wa q W iet ( 111le 8 11 'p v141 iand 1'l I that '11d paplh rolfts of I lie nlipa Shelters slumbered iil tili' 4eadl8 i li(8a 4t1 m1I' idil4 aIv s Iun. 11Jaro) is w1v('re the a itvi('s i ('. It tpas.ilpolationl of aboiiut 10{),000, 111id |here iae Ili uropea1ns excep4't the (>lfis soldier's o4)()CC11-)i11T it. I:Molo ---Iwhii'ic, stII range as iI may see I i, is II l,'I I( Iiced s8 it is spe(1lled lies offt folm Ili1) i a111otht1lr directionl. This is wliee4 1(' lisiz(tos, 14 Iil al (f-caste('s, live(. (Chillese who 11. ii8v 11a11 '4ried India 1118,iiss 1ma1ke MAol teirl o. 11. is, like.Jaro, a 18l24' set t hle tlull, 11d1 8 411t ea II numiber (of \w4ealthi (Chill'ese liave bu)il it ill) to quite 8 1respecta(tble 1i1nd1 siubstailtial 21)0 111()11.() AIXI) 7'/ 11. 1'1 ) kICl'1111'Il. ). lllappelarllce. There are a. niiumber of factolries tl(here lh(e di fe'l'tt native fabrics are wv'en, t bltt the ll1ilippile ildea ) a factol)y ie f a r s ol()t possesses t-hemIll. A pluchaser del sirilln& a cl(itl i of a patllcult n col. c,1 an hlave it luuadle (acco((li ' to 1his ()ow lN desi ln. It takes s mie timel, beca1 us in this ml sitnan1ltla ] lCand( the natives ltever believe inl dotl()i') a til lii,, toI )orrow tllhatl ci an be put olT until day afte'r to-imor)row. C.ebu is 11ow thlle tli'rdI (llloli('cial city of the Plhilipilnes land thle capital of tlh island bealrinl, the same m1C e. A line (of stlcam ters 1 l111S lfrotl lloil to (lo ebl il a111ibout tlwentI hours, lS wlil 1aitre a lpre tenlti ols ill('e ]llls flroln AMlanil.a t (bll (lCebdiect. Fo(r ima nIll y(ea1rs this clit v ranked('(l nextt to Ma5lila i co ercial imil('otanlce, b1)ut I lilo (C1It AN ITS fi allyv plasse(1 i itn t1e race a' 1( d (1 w sta.lls sc('(tid. (C.1M 1 ERCIA 1... IMPORTANCE. 11 ow(ever, nli til t ite recelit i nsurl' rectio (ldist ir)bedl all co(llil(erce and lag ricultulre, it vwas still t lie shippifiIg' center for mc111 of tl(he hemp raisedl in t lil Visay v-lan islanlds. Th1 e iplilation is tabout, 1000t() ati(l tl(e for)leig'ln o')1 milii lit' i(,)olsisls olb of, agen{cies of tV(wo En111lish, o)n (('l1erma II and t hlltee SpalIniSil busi Iss hII)uses. )One man ()l(ls aill tllhe for(i, con('(sulaltes anI(l tlhe busilne'ss houses represent all the insurtance c('ml)01paie, s aand ba1anks:as we(ll. As thle site of the firs-t Spaitisli set t lem(ent ill t(he lPhilippilnes C(ebu is a place of s)ome l.ist:(ri i ntet 'rest. Fi ()l t 1 i; It '1 71 it wa;s t lle ( c )ital of a( colony. Up to 1759) it, contilnued t4(o ha]ve a lliil11 ' governlnent, which was thlen abolishle(1 bec)tause tlhee W( s butt (111( 81mSpalia'dtl in the phic, capable of beiIlg a, city co(incilor, whlile tlie 11mayor lIlad recently been tur(ned out of (oflie for attemptllipng to extort money froiil Ia (Chillnaman by pu)ttilln his helad in tle stocks. The municipall govern(lIment was not restore(l until 1S90. The islands of thle Vistavyan t,'roulp tare I(ore tI llhn vatl ei(d in I ii r characteristics of soil, (liiiate 11(1 products. IThey 11(e ei(I' (lo'lli one another that navigation for sIImall boats is easy aId( f11'((1lreqIeti even though( somtle of the (channels bet wee(n (,tl islands are roU()'l. ('uimaras, for instance, which lies opp(site lloil() atcross a chlannel but six miles in wi(lth, is (xt-remely health-lifl. It is rou(h and hilly, )but without high mounttains. The whole island is covered witl- a cap of II-C)ILO.1111%,I) P I /,I /I, /S, I ), " I X " II1k CI / I I I / " LI I GO. 21)1 limestone (and I lle, s()il is l llapparent ly po'omr. Ne(' r tllie sea, ('C'(1111iiut p)al s1 (111,;are a IIMIdan t,;a IIl t(e nu' Ilts, wit 1;I li ild i ilt, xia(';cit i a1('de i'omn the sap of I lI(e blossomil-stalks, are! the prinlcipal proldIct|s of the littlle islalnd(. The islae d of Plaly it(self, FA(IS AI)IIT,,THE ISLANI) (Ine Oi t e, largel'' (rf t the a;rcipelago(, li as been allimostl I E N dlenIIldeld (I tlie t rees wvlicli once co, verel it amll in t lIe viciliity of its pric ipal ciitiy Op lial ciy lly sW4aiIl)ps, clilt ivated grol'nild, 111d iIesI elll( 1 O(' O (,ales. The sava'ge tribbes have disaplpeared with t lie 11(orst, (ither yiel(lillg to civilizationl ol b(econ( ing extilc(11, but i Ilie hiti IIllouii]taiiis ito l lieih liothwestl whlichli are little explored, somile wooIiland alld Soile wild meni may yet be fouind. There have been 11 valuable miniieral deposits discovered in Patia v. 'The soil is fairlly fertile over lare areas eand ii soiie legiols is vir rich. There are extenlsive sg'1ar pla)ntatlionis ill the (C1oncepcion district. NeaN r ( api)iz large qlantities ()of al(ohol are iia(le froti the jlice ot the nlipa pailli. The bh)lossoii-stalk is cut offT and thle flovwiig sapl caught, placed( il ltarg-e receptacles to f 'erment and, finally dist illed. Tlie1 I'p1Ocess is iliexpensive and111 id l, p1'4)(111t(. of (excel'lent qluallity. Although (l 1Cebu is l;ie tir(1 citv of (oiminercial im liportate14.e tll lie islands, tlhere are other native c(ities (of largler populationx which ar'e importalit imarket townls for a griculi.t'ral p1)rml icts. (1apiz, for ilnstance, on the lll rt liast c lst f l);Iana', hlis:a olpulationi of i11)e th11an 25,00(), withI a Spanllish colony of nea'ly 100. The next neighlbor island to tlie sotleastwarld (If Planav is Negros, the principal towns of Nwhich are Duiiiag"Iiuete, Bais 8(and H1acalod. Negis 1 is )probat)ly v tlhe richlests islII ad ()f its size i thII e a I 'liirciel:a go a d(1. ihe fertile lowlanids along the coast are exte nsivel, cultivated, altlihoIIghi 11111cli go, (d l1and still lies idle(. F'iie 1)tobacco is gro,,wvii illn the Esca.llante region, but sar1 isl the most important. as a crop. Alt hougl tl(he most prinlitive mlethods of cultiv;atilng the ca;le1 and e'xtractili (, jili(', ('a)rl)T v eiil)l( ved,1!10R, l l 'H'E exrat tie ice anr~ co~mi~mo~ eI'mpo!ed there I ).I'I, SE. are a number o(f tine estates on which compilarat i 1velmoderllnl machinery is used. Tlhe most southlerly island of the Visaya group, except the southIi'rn extremity of Negros itself, is Siquiijor,, whfichl lies somile fift(,een m]iles to the soulliteast. of D)illln:,'maglete. One town is nal(med t1ie s5ailie ns tlie 202 I/i )II.() IA)I ' IlI 1 V IA 'lI G 11a111e(. of IlI' isla ll(1 a 11(I 11 l) 11h('1e is ('a11(1 Slail Aii l onlio(, tI 1e foril(Ier on, itlie s asIsI(or('e:1(I d 1 ihek( ItI e (lall on t i hlieI( t s l ro(l1d(1 il the ill. Li lke i()ost of tlihe limiuestolne islandII(Is o t ll( ilipp Iliies, Si(qullij ' is (lIIiit'e f'(1 fro111 ma111iai. 1Inasu11(ch1 tas it 1produce( s a laIr':ge (qu1alltity f (X(celle(lit food ()( l11(products and th1 |)e p ()ple( tI( llot 1able) i lli I il i i ll(ip fs tl(1 thenii il ii stI y, it is a so{ Ilewhat de. si )abl plac( fo'(i 8 shor ()t visit. lThe islald (o1 (e1)11 lies directIv east (of N(eIros. Th e cit, which is the cap)if tl oif tlhe islandl(, lis beel l a bishopll's see, as wel! l as i the resi(ldence of the goverlor a(d a8! ge eail l of 1r igale commandin' (he ov(r'l)'s of all tlie \ 'isWa nd.i iaslnds. ('1)1b h s 114) lhiih 'll mo)l tlills, butl the s111''rce' o its it( i is s l'brokell!'b st('lep and ll '( l ( l ils. T'ill I islltanld l1as tbee((' a;limost (den('I led('1 (of tree((s, di1t(l 1i1:'I a;' ea(s are' go'wu i 111 ill ('o nIl(e. Tl 1( Slie s Noil, w\\iic 15 is 1(t1n sallalow, lies vov er. I eill'eslt olI ro cks. There is ver y little' ilalia, indI tl ielad i 1 is, on hle (wholt, ((except io(llally lealt lhlful. Thlere aIe no wild tr ibes ill ( 'bu. ri'i'ndls iilifesft so1e) dist'icts, l}int as ia le1 11 ( {pleople ae odly anld ot(!ed for thei ai - (ll)ililt,11 4 1 n lld sp itllity. Sam'ar, aiotlt'er of thel( lager(, Visayvlals and, il fact, tlil lli'rd isl1ll(1 ill siz'e of all 1 l( l'leili ll, iles, lih s fori its c('piital a t \own c1l led (Cat.baloga'. It is a small, clean town lvill' on the 'TII1 l I) M1L } N1A i) IN S17FA bu1,silnss is tI e clmivina, (inand b1 8( allug oI he lp. T hlere are s everal f ai ly I g ooIdl sIhop(I)s i IIi 1e pIIla e, I t1II it is liflficllt 14 obtaill ((oo1 t lee, 8s f Iruit, poultry I 811(1(ios are s(c1(rce a11d1 delarl. Fish is very abun1dant, Ilowever, '11 1 milk (81b 1)(e (l)t;aiIIil ol|ilY.-...1 1'a1'r' luxury in tlie Phlippi]lies. There'l'' is a fine 1 'beach ill friot ( ftill( towxtn whe, re tlhe surf batlhill, is ldeli,'ltfll. e1('lmp is thle chli'',rodu(llit of tles isihill nlld is raised ill co(siderable (fplant lfieis. T'I('re js also} l immellstse a1o111mnlt (If valuablel} ti iltber still stIand lil. I e ll islatiold is wit hout hihi 11omo taint s, IbuIt O wee are several rivers of some importalice. T1ll clima llae is 11ealthIiful. These( are' lilt islali,!s il( ncludedl ill t(l(e Visxaytan er1public, or)gallized vith I Io ilo s a c( ital, wnlll til( l'e Spanish commander there surlende'red his tlroops)5 to 811 i 1nsrlloenlt. force. *7ff Y.i " ~hi r; .njiQI L 5 1;~" ~L~ ig i, d rjU ""IF:2 x ii;i 2, ~ pia aJmJ aa ~~~;,,r ~i~ s, B iFi i g, v: ai": 1.~ Li I i --- ": ~"I~ u ai- 11 R isr~~a ~~1 ~;i"r:sJr Ei~n a,~o, 1~ 'S"i II"" IfEr88~ Ilii~,E Blr I t: c j; m C";" L 9~1,FF R;i r;rpie E IIiI,, a 9, ltla /i -" U:'~"E ai,f p;~~ e jP8~~iI;,~~,~I "s m~~ii" ~:"YMn 111 E.,"B nEaLw, ~-~ I"~Blrr,,;l.r;s~j B ;".5~"I 1;1-7 I IBi LI~Ei"gS iii Zji? i:, Friil~i~ Zu ii;IL IiI. CL4;Cj iri $ 11 a ~~rP:,,,1 i iOlB!I r -3 _,,""~~i~ * Hb ii; i;Bi ib,~j" r~ % n s,, ~,DE r "Bj'~ 83 9~'~ all ":" ""1 M ii ; a~- " ~ ~i r I~i, ^ F lis D,IF. -~ 3 P" J" i' rxr 1, 13, s ~I- ~::~ I~i;:'i4" t;~ ( IE Znll cl"kl V3 $ F 5. iP a n i:s "" i, 1.~ "I r O" II: O i"'": i~ e+ r -( I? i; II IxPi. II: %i s i v, x cc;, . P:Il rci t E Era~ u r j" Liia,i,, rr, i"i D indji...s,, sC a giP:d m ti cr: i f ~~ n I~I'O (ri H; -ri 8~ Li+ ~1' a, j p J~;Ifx-~,I ;.6 *r 6" iSi di I rb I rli r uh~ —i ~,,, I uB iB~ tA r,,,:d -n~iii;~~; i " %I~ i~ " rs[l glii 3, w ~ J s~~,,;I $ =i a n:i~ CS 9 rir" ~I ~s s9 cJ ~ib a w ; i "-;~.p,, Fo i;'c~s g loi; ":~I. 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I~:"..~::.:. "W'~lg~:j: "~, D"d r; Il'liii i~i~.:E' ~"" 6;;:i;l; ff 88;a~~:~'~,.:ia s0 a i'"""":~iii ii.:~~ I-: rEli i"'::i~~; I;, '~ ~.~'~:.,: ..'~':""" 1 h d;wi -a:s In ~'~;~~~ ~II Illri;l o e8806~il.l~~;ii ~i,,E 18 i:~,,~~ii: D D O I;l:B x G, I ~r;~~~, ~iitll$iil~lillllo.ii......: II....:;;....I...I.li...IP1 +-I rn 1SiE~ ":":.1*, iP $ LliEI Bl;;a, a,a c _i: ~i,~;":8iil:8,8;;;lxl~x:i:2sAn.ii~ilr; c3 IBIP'"":"" "i" ~'"";" rpA,slliP,,,,, B~ Lzi r~, ~n:ilP;ll$l;grlx ai~~i: ii ~~ix;BjJ;, '" I;j;ii8-*i 'BBBEr I 1681RIa: ~"i"''illi3iii s; iii; rii; CHAPTER XI. PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. The Sulu Sea and Its Boundaries-The Journey to Palawan-The Town of Puerto Princesa-A Gift from the Sultan of Borneo-Wars with the Moros-Efforts to Induce Immigration Into Palawan-Establishment of a Penal SettlementManners of Life in Palawan-Transported Convicts for Servants-The Savage Native Peoples-Interesting Facts About the Tagbanuas-Products of the Island-A Discouraging Effort to Develop Agriculture. AR to the southward of Luzon lies the Sulu sea, forming a great, diamonl d-shaped body of vater, of which tlie angles virtually coincide with the points of the comlpass. The southwestern side of the figure is bounded by lBritisl North BIorneo; the southeastern by the Sulu archipelago, where the Moros have their stronghold, and by the island of Mindalnao, second in size of the Philippines; the northeast by Negros, Panay and Mindoro; and the northwestern by the island of Palawan and its neighbors. This latter island, the fifth in size of all the Philippines, with the smaller ones,adjoining it to the north and south, forms one of the greater divisions of the whole archipelago, known by the Spaniards under the name of Islas Adjacentes. Palawan is the native name for the island and the one which is considered geographically correct, although the Spaniards long have dubbed it Paragua. The other islands properly included in the same general division are Busuanga, Calamianes, Culion, Nengalao, Linapacan, Cuyo and Dumaran in the northeast, and Balabac in the southwest. The traveler for the Islas Adjacentes sails from Manila on one of llhe inter-island steamboats which carry the mail, passengers and freight throughout the archipelago. The first stop in the journey usually is at the Calamianes islands. The same name is applied to one 205 4XD THE ADJ,,x1CEN1' ]SLzINDS. of the 1 prov1ince, which iniclutdes tlie nu1i1eI1rou1s islands lying betw.eenl Palawan, Min(ol(o) anld Plaay. (C1yo is tlhe ca)ital (f HlOW TO REACLH lthie saIIe pIrovince andti( tll(' second lport o(r l(he jouiirniey. PALAWAN Fi')M MlANILA Ie1tre, strangcely enou)llh, the,poplahti on is com(i'osedl alnmost alt(ogetlher of women, wlto conse(11en 1tly 'm!o 1 ])olize, all thle tIrale. T'lhey c(olme off to the pl)asse(ln ster stel(iiimter s witli frlii1, pr)lisions1S and curios andl( a 111it1 is seldom lS(een( by the traveler. It iS so (liffcillt to gain a1 livelihood ill this island tihat the boys a youn llXlmen make( their escape 1t() llmore favolrable islanll as soon as t (he'y ae big el()nough to shlift. for tlleliselves allnd tlh result is thllt nilnel per centt of the pl)oulaitiion are wocilln. IPalawan is onl e of the less knoln)ll and less sett led islanlds of t he Philippine arclhipel)ag(o, ()f whichli, excelpt for solme littl(e nleiglibors to tle soutlhwarldt it is thle Avestern'I'ost. The islaidll is nearly,0()() 0 il(s in length, its breadthll rangingl, from six to tlhirt y-five milles, withl an averlage( of twen(llty miles. The( (apit:l is l'Pert) lricesa, whic is sit lated on the el(astern si(lde (about i mid;wayv betwleen the nort 1he1(1 and solth-l ern extremities. The townl is a fairly' pr(,Sp)er'ou)s p)lace, situ-1at(ed1 on aI go)(od-sized bay, whilch aifor(s safe lanchortage. There is a lighltll~h se( which marks the entran'ce to the excellent llharbor and a little slip 'for rep)airing vessels. Two Spanish gunboats have mallde headqu(rters there and as a result tle p)lace h' libs abee(n known as a naval st-atiol. The island of I'alawan formerlly belongedd to the sultan of lBor1'(e). Early in the eighteenthl century the 1)paiardI(s began to( settle its 11O'1th — (ern end, and in o(rder to protect tlhem from) the w:arlike )Mor)os w )ho lived in its southern third', a garrison was establlised. After beui' ma:intained for a. few years, it wais left witlhout the necessary supllies and was finally abandoned ab e fter 1any ou f tlhe troop( s 11a1d perishl(ed miserably of hunger and want. A few years lait ' A (OIFT FlROM the sultan gave the island to the Spanish. Trool()p TIHE SULTAN OF BORNEO. were sent undler a ca.ptain to take formal possession. All of tlhemn died ultimately, some from eating rotiftn food a.nd others in war with the Moros. Still later a third garrisonl was establislhed at T.ay Taly. At first a little settlement grew lip arouIlll it, which ultinmately slaredl tlle fate of its predecessor. After centuries of effort to settle the island alnd protect the set L'.1I I I'IN 1INJ) 1' 1 1 4/i A)JCENT ISL.ANI)S. 207 Iters, a le(i el(,wed a;lltt ('lllt iw s llil(l ()lo t ple' i)arlt *of tlil S)lpanlislh aIil lito)iIies. 'Il n1SS>. it l was l, videl, d bly lroyal orderl that 1 ilitl tary posts should b)e esitallslished in Palawlan for tie plotect (ton of prioslpective settlers. All 1Spaish slbje (s whlo slhold i l ig'rate from Spain), as well as all civilizedl 11atives w'lio shoi)ldl setltle in ll thes isltnl!s were'( pro'lisedl (X(t1111)ion frti' 11 f lil a, l Iymenit of triblte t'(f six years. Tely were also of'te''e flree I l:ra sportlat l ion 10 I i,i'i dest inil(ti n a w11(1 v(r I prolvilded with seed a11(1d iplemenlf ts. IAs I lis (offe tl f(ile t:o 1' 1ve Ii d eesi( l t it (f lt, it WvIs laer pIovidled that1t the (over(li'5os of ne11(i 01)oin' prllovillce'(s s)l1ould promote the vollntlarv 1i(1graltion of iatlive families b1 v still lmoe generous offers. Twenty1ive fa'lili i s Awere t (o be s( from (each o(f Ille neiglboring provinces aina1ill. A ll ((11 debts owed tille L' 1 overmet l 1!'by tI1es fai ili es 1were( to be I cl(( 1(1. TlI,y w ere, to 'receive freie tlillnallv (lividl(l inlto ir vi\icel(,S, Slpanish 1altllroit, has l)llen ei'ffecltiv e, s oa Im llattel of faclt, onl1y i ll narrow l 1111and o(r ltss isolated stripls aIlo]pn tlhe sea'l anlll lle'lar a, few of t lie' rivers wllicill aforId ti e tonl i(ic'ilans ofi (co11 X 111 ulica tion ' itI tlie fl s it we ior. Pran ofessor Worcistler l ts an i t rest ig ci st ce cI Iec ted with Spalni forces insh tl( iie ishi'iis, ci, wl l cn totl(uces as its clie r ctoir one whose name lIas been very faiiiiliar to Amleaicas. lie sa: vs t iI Milndanao there atre nio roa(ls a.nd tle fi utiilit of atl itempltini to llove tlroos i iltlilall wls bea'u11 tl'ln dil, emit' btl r y Ge,(I1 (, v er1al l \ Wevrla ert d11 ritll (oIr secon visit. For Someii rea(sonk best kiiowi to hiiisel k, he sa1w fit to selld illn anl exped(ition againllst tIlle Morls. It was veryl broad(lly lIin I ted(l by his cosiI u tllme tfhat lie had atl ists ig fr11 tl e rank of mnarIshal aini ho)p1ed to w i it. Whatever' t', h c(ause1], tall tlhe atvailable forceIs in thle archipelago were conlcelltted and marchled into the Mindanaoll forest. Anl otificier w accolllmanil 1 lie eX1peditionl t1(ld me tlbat tthe enemt sl t ill v ts ' s lv ier1 fawt aal tley wereever Al o oviertake thells, while (eigbit per (ilt of tllhei owl t ilml were W dlisabled by stl arvation and fever. Although l t lle starvat lio n i lut hae'l ellt aIe 1 avoided, it. is tolerabl cerltin l hat- the fever was inevitable. hle Ilortalit v was certainly terrible. We saw the wreck of the ex)pedition(1 come back,,and in spite of tlie( ftaict tthat thie priests frrontI alll the11 A TYPIcAtL towns neaIIr Ziamboaiana were ( called illn, thley could UN1)E1RTAKIN. not shrive thle soldiers as fast Ias they died (. Sick n1en we(t e sent away by tlie s511i) lo(ad. Mea.1whlili Weyler was directin'- olperations from a very safe distantlce, spetndiiL' much of his time oil a (dispatchl boat. We learned later tlia t several glorious victories were announce(ed at Manila and wevre ce('(l(lbrateled i wit processions, fireworks and grea( t rejoicings." The natural charactleristics of Mindlanao are sucl as to lllake it interesting alike to the traveler a.1d( tlhe pssible settler. Its resources are, perhaps, less developed thlan those of any other of the larger islands of the archi)elago*. The soil, especially in tlie river and( lake regions, is exceedingly fertile and rep)ays abundantly the labor (expended upon it. Valuable mineral wealth is known to exist, althoughl1 few details are recorded. (lold( is found in paying quantities at a number of points, among others Misamis and Surigao, where the natives A NATIVE PADRE OF THE PHILIPPINES 'The pilipiros e t i ( (elarrel owith the Ittholh ic citireh tor with tle pIriets of teir oRte 'IlTheir Lalimositv is d(ire l tedl agiist the spainisl )ietw, whoir l thley chirrge with im'lity, viecious Illbtits and an ove'rwrlhetlming greeid fr the Ipriestly fee Cs / ' e *'' " I-. MESTIZO CHILDREN IN MANILA rccfmlicUll7y t;ile wo()l w es Mt1izi bt a natrrowe~~r signiflcance~, but ini prlacc pi*es it is: i1p'iie t ( y half-caste person. These l. thle piture.Le IL mixture of-!fli "i `>s' atn(,e In 1 dia alli sh d i.gl ii dFil ipi h(h - frl 1a:g( elemenlt i tlie popi atio aniln~sf. tLlTt 111Filplf}hi-C1t5 i n ug tIl.I 111 3.l t ~-~ ~i ,.~ tW '~4 i: j +I L .-~ u;L_" r= iab a.: m "~i I, "i 81 L;,L~ R~,:. i~I .~r;R L~~,~." E?;a^~ B:^1 f : IClrr , ~r"":H ~~~,:i: ct a ~*"g* ;g iR,p i:-I,~~. a -i 9";"""""e~li;~b~~ 5 " " ~n~r:i ~- " c; IElib ICBI r i~;Ia:n a;s, E zs~- liP w IiiSj:Ej2t:j~,i": """ , FIe Lt r — s ~r~ii r.r I;; cr Cid ~ E ~~ R~;"u ~J: gP ZH c. 1,. _8, " Vnl ~: ~%:.. i Lu ~ — 3113" r: i,,i::i~'.IQ~ Is:,i ~" "d:~a~i 4: ~x: E c~ ~ ~"ai i;~Bi,pi~ tli -"~; "" iB m r: .P~ I"~.~* Bb ~i~,,ii ax -~ llldk w.a* TJ iII i- i cj ".:~;al:-r~ ilr a B GENERAL, PILAR AND STAF'F OF' THE INSUJRGENT ARMY * ~ ~~~1,, ~ 1 nc, tne n~~ os: a( t z 1 ntS. \S i X. X l i 0 t >: 4 t Ii l i >9 W g it. }.t. | I. 0. j | sf,L i |,. S 1 i. X 4g ). fi. X.+. x vi x a.N. t. X X> ki < x tt.l }. A* iA t1 |L.l fi. Et 1(b i).t. \ 811CA i.U l2S 1 >$ E< +>< f6S i s& tW> s. t...\ } sR E.-,w.~ g WEi F.s t> *k MIND/ ANAO, ITS RESOUI) IRCS A NID) (ONI)IT I()N S. 217 have worked thle dliggings profitabl)y by tl(ir crudle nietlliods for Iany years. Misailis is a port on tlhe north shore of the island in Ili;gan bay, while Slirigao is at the northeastern extremllity of the island. The na1lle of Mindanao signifie"s "lraln of thej like, thle natives exsllaining that tihe name was given because the island is so well Nwatered. Its river and lake systems are even more important than th1ose of Luzon. The largoest river, the Butnan, which rises near tlie southeastern extremity of the island, runs north througll a great valley of remarkable fertility, traversing the whole island and flowing into the sea that bounds the north shore. NATURAL 1RESOURCES OF The Rio GrIandte, on the other hand, rises near the TIIE ISLND. north coast and flows south and west, while there are otlier rivers of lesser importance. Both of the rivers namned have the1ir sources and tributaries in large lak es and there are many others which lfin(1 an (exit to tlie sea by 1smalller streams. Tlhe forests of the islands are of greatt extent, tle splendid trees ilcllldin(g nmany of great coiminercial value. Beside tle valuable prodll1ct of the forest which Minldanao has in coimmon wllt itllh most of the otlher islands, guitta perclha is abundant in certain localities. The scenery of Minldanao is notably fine. There are several mounta(in chains separating tlhe river valleys and the peaks include a number of active volcanoes. The most famous of these is Mount Apo near the port of Devao on the south coast. The summiit of this volcano rises to a height of nearly,000( feet. Extinct volcanoes are numIerous. The oldest of tlhe Sp)anish settlements in tlhe island is the inmportant town of Zamnboanga, which is the capital of a province bearing the same name. This port is situated at tlhe extreme southwestern point of the island and consequently nearest the Sulu archipelago and the domain of the Moros. It was taken and fortified in tlie early days as a place of operation against the Molhallmedlans and still has an old stone fort to which the inhabitants miglt retreat if attackeld. The town is large and clean, with a pier extending into moderately (leep water, although vessels of large size have to lie in the outer lIarbor. The steamers sailing fromn thle Australian ports of Queensland for Hongkong and Yokoharma, pass between Mindanao and Borneo on their direct course, not mnany mliles froim Zainbo()Canga. In former times '2A1 I:).:/'LVJ(, ITS t'SRESOULIRCES A1. CO()' i.)/ )NiS. h lIese st1 aImers 111ade )por(t.t this city as a, reglai. sto)pl)iog poinlt on thleir jouelll, Ibut the excessitve hlarbor fees ai(d agg'avatilng cstolls restrictions long, ago caused tllhem to shlnu it. A FUTUi E PO)Ll Th is is one of the Iiolre notable lanes of passenger lMPOT i 2. ad fitl freigh1lt traffic between Australia and Asia. Under an Am.ericaan reolnine Zamllbolanga no doubt would b(ecomile Iport (of ('call, and a welcome one, for these same vessels, and it woumld be ian illpolrtlanlt citv illn l t taffic of tle archilclag,'o. Thl'is part of the island of Mindanao hlas been quite thoroutghlyv under Spanish control and in the neighborhoodl of Zamboangla. are villah1es of decent civilized natives, restiilg J conitet niiler the alien auth.orlit. Such villages are picturesque anl interesting to tie traxvelr, althlough they offer no accommodat lios foi' one whlo is exacting. E\ve'y suchl villal'e has a churc'h, which is the most pretenttiou1s edifice in tlhe p1lace, a house for tle priest, and an ilstltu:ltionll (f tlie islinds knowin as tli. te tlribunal. This is a sort: of town-lall where the head men of tile vill;age Imeett to transact businless. It contains a1 liair of stocks or' s(0m1e o(lter contrivalnce for tle detention ot f pris(oners. W1hen trops ta11e qu(llrtered there, the place is used as a barracks, antd most imlportaut of all to tlhe stranl(er, alnyl traveler who chooses to do so has a rillt. to lput up there. lTangingl on tlie wanll is ordilnarily to be found a list of tIle proper local prices for rice, fowl, egogs, meat.an:(l oth-ler articlels f food, as well as for lhorse h1ire, bufflalo litr, carriers, etc. e objet of tl is list is to) po:,t (ct stralners flrll extortion. lHere il the neighborhool d of Zalmboanga is an excellent place to observe the manners of life of tle civilized natives and the relationship they have held to the Spanish authorities of the l'Philipines. TIlie native houses there are like those of tlie poorer civilized natives -throlughout, tile (rchipelag'o. Tlie tIypic(al P'liliipp)ine houlse rests on four or more ]heavy timber(s, which are ftirlvy set in the ground, andl its floor is raised front flive to ten feet in the air. There is not a nail or a peg in the hIO( V'TH whlole structure. The frame is of ballmboo, tied toNATIVE I li)lUSES ARE Ct(NSTiIt(1rE!). h(,tilter with rattan. The sides and roof are usually of nipa palm, althoughl the former mav be made by sp)litting green bamboos, poundingl the halves flat, and then weaviu!. MIND,1NAiAOi, 1T'S RESO URCI S AND CON DITIO c)NS. 2 19 ihelt t4ogelher, while if liipa is very sc1arce, ti I roof may be 1 ta,f1tche wiilt the g li(,' 'IrlIss ciled coo. Te floolr usually is le of b boo strips vitl their cl(i vex sildes 11i). They:iare lied firmly ill place ill SIll h,a way\ I tlt wide (cril cs Iare let bet we(i. TF11(e windts provide \\i:i swi X ll'ill'g sladildes whuicl h (c'an be plropped(i pen ur)l)(iig {tl l'll e,. l O e()i h-as to climib a a1dde1v ti etler tlhe( house. Oftenll tIllere is but one room0 fir(, (oohilg,,altillg 11(d sl(leepilg'. 'Tll(e ookinl is: (.done over ai opt fie bulilt I 011, l h ap of (earl 1 inll ( e c( l(er'. Ill the better (dwellinil s I here is a place I t i ti oned of() for c oki Ig I, I I ally jlust at the hI( lead of lhe latlder, while the body of tI le house is (d ivi d ed into two to 1iore Natll(' iS huses ol is s)ort havel' m1ch t(o recofml' ilu enid themll. If sl1lk.(1ie1 lotw by l an elartl(lu(ak, or' blown over by a typhioon(, ln) its lurt, for th le im telrils 1usd are to(o lill'lit t sl lia l] sdt w ien t(he t'Ill. The velntilationl is perfect a(lnd the air k'eeps 1i('1ch c('ooler thanll i a iily tilo 1 v t1 tsedi 1lbuildlinig'. W ealt Iy nat ives so It( i 11( btuiltl 1i (, ses o)1 hoJlards ithl gilvaliz(ed iron roofs:111(d liliiesttotne f(ouilat iols, I1Iut; 11hey are very iu1ch l11iore elpe)nsive anil ldecidedlly less com fortlble tillo:a tlle 111ll11ble)l('l- lwellill 's'.. 'Tll e syIste (ii of ovel'lr11ielIt o(f tile native villages thlirollulglot Mill(I Ins Ind'l),I INi:tdana:io, (and a:s well ill tI ie other islaiidIs of thle archplll)ela,, where Slpanllish 1le:has extllended, is of 'colsiderable intelrest. It will be (df greatecr i (ell(st Ito wA titch ti e tIe deveql )1p ellt of A.\meri' ca:1 inlfl 11 uice anli a utlti (Viy il ] tihe i.sliand!s a1:nl ito s(e to Iwht xt:it it'11111 e Span) lishi sstel is fol1 twed. A gv)1)1erlatdorcil(), lllit-cvallv "little governotrl1 is to 1)be founlild ill v,(ery Ph'ilillppine t)xownl or village lanld he is a very: imllp(ort;ant personge. le is v 11 t i a a ()always 1a native o l a half-caste and is the SYSTEM OF lo(a l I 1repres enttive of the goverl1or tf his pl)o1vinl(e, i IF lIA t''oil whIZ01 —LL ok il/k l/iiJI1VIS. TJihle T 'l' ll s a'er thle ]pI I pl lIe otf I he' Phli i n) s wl a likl to comlil' illost closely iI clOt 8(,t vitll Am\eria'i11' if]n itie lbe'ilmll ii,, 1)(ella se it iS tHlwy who liave beei( Im)ost (active inl the i11nsl'rect ion a.iainst tlhe lSpanishl ill I ZIi aI'r 111( Iila. In i tlo e lil. ippine I 'S:f's are, l )perhaps, live Il illionl ci v\ili ized nati ves, belo ul ill i foir t lihe llost! OF JIi E \ isa \-.1s. \\lhileh tlie tribes liiffer and t 'here:are evel 111 a11,11T IN ES. litl (erencess wit Iill 1H1, sal me t11'il}be 1der' v"I 'vi II co( di iolls, still t lhe civilizedl 11a tives a're sntfliciently silil iill o 1 (), consilde(ed( as a singile class( ill lookiIgI towvard t1 h1e ftit ure (otf I he islands. 1 11 best stlde nts (of the islaniderf s felieve that the n1ative"'s a.re nat1 -ra1h1v fair1 intlliet el'enl and often I most- anxious for Ian opport ili i to,'et some (411llt ionl. The fact thall tll ret llss of thlle 1people are i.Iolra1nit al'0('1!s o lproof itht tlhey,ure st- llpid, tfo tlhel1y I've bleeil ldelibeiate lvy kelt ill i ilrl'la'ce from, tihe lime (,f th1( SlpaIlish disc'oveurv 1il ot i110W. The m1110ral odlilationl to (ell tell( truitIl (1(es( not weill 'lifleavilv uponl the Filipino. l.The (civilized(I nat ives ofteil lie to conlceal'l t I most t rivial s!l'tcomiiii,,, o'r eve( witholt 1any1' ex'cse whatever, amd1 the d(eteci l11 of a. 1tfalselioodl l lillIs 1 () eIet '(1 excet lci(t- I e i t, 1 1 t Ie i s Iot 1been 1llmore dext e1osls v carried out. 'I,'e Filipilno ca('111ot ulider-llstd(1 plunllishimient for falsehood, l1e(auise it is nol tIo his mindll ( (411fells. For. a filt wI1ich lie recogni, z, however, lv 1( lie wil1 subtlll )t t ipisllhmenlt withollt a1 111rilumauitr, tlld(1 i(l(eed lie t1(inks llmore of (a 11iasterl vwho a4pplies tihe raIittian for puiishililent wNhenl it is deserved, than1 off oie w1lo (d(oes iiot. Ou tilhe otilier 11d, he is qulick to reselit whalt lie (olsid(l(s to ) 1 illjlstic('(e nd will lide l1is tiIte inl s etilence ti his vel eal8.( 11ce is (certai l. l1The 11atives of the 'lPhilippilnes have iot Illadle (eiillenlt co IIt l biltionts t oward 1 the adlv1alce of science, literatle a atb tIIre a t, hut that proves littlel as to their capalcitv u11nder a regimel of dev'elopiient. Even tas it- is, the TaiLaloo- rac.e ias dlevelopled IO(SS11111 IES,1e paitil.er of merit, one atllor of excellent abilitvy, ONATIrIf (tT1rU1E. 11d sme, wood-coavers whlo have do}ne admniraable 'work. But the average native, sit ated as lie is, could not be expected to maIke aly a avancemient along such lines. Within his own sphere. ~n~.Vihnhsonshr ;.) s I fIlli ' ). I.i OP T111.ii' J!' Il.I i'' I VN 1S. he is certlainlll y iun'eniouss al(nd ever rreadly w\ithl a reIlmedyl for aly slislha which m1ay oc(:cr. Thlle il'ili)in() tfrequllenltly slIhoWS hilllself irrtesponlsible illn inanciall affairs, Spenldillg lmoney tlhat hle shlould save tand brrowilg wlhat lhe is not likely to 1be able to replay. ()I1 the (otllher' la11ln, I lie seldomll r'epldiates his debts, alnd if c1alled 111)po t(o meet t(hem (dos lis:best. Thle chlarge that the Filipino is ildollent does nlot wei^1h heavily 11po))11 those who know the condlitions. The 11an wIo wouxld exert hliimlself unnecessarily inl s1uc a cliiiat e, whether whlite (or nallive, A(would be subject to miiich curiosity. No) (1w (cal work t here as hle would in a temp)ertate climate a11nd live. Natllre lhas d((ie so( 11111(ch for her childirll ill Ille'se ishilds latl -f tlt- dren in t1ese islands that hey have n) need to labor hard in order to su1pply thleir few and simple walnts. Spanish d adminiist ration has not, been such as to enco(urag(e t he nllatives to p)ile up 1mo)ney f(or the tax-ga(-ltherer and the villa(ge friar to m1nake, way wilti. Once t(heV are made to realize new wants of their own, thlley will wrk to satisfy them. In Siquijor, Bohol and other islhands where hard natural conditions mtake it diffi(cult to eallrn aI livelihood, tlhe pe( le larle no)ted for tlheir ilndustry 1and arre, consequently, il (demlan(l as labo)rers. It is w(ell to( el'mp)lhasize that ]the( c:ivilizedl Filipino lias inal,i )oo)(l. qualities to offset his bad ione. lie is IospIitble) to tlhe limit: of hlis means, and will go to' any a0m) t of tnrouble to 1(cMINS E eoDlmmodall(late SOml perfect stlr ll,r'lr w-ho ]las 11not the QUALITIES OF TIHE FILiPItNOS. ^sligltest claim on himl. Every villa( lihas its tiI1-11 and t1he people are no(tal)le for their pers''onal cleanliness. The l(home)s are well r('eg lat(,d(1 and tl(e family life is )peculiarly happy. The children are orderly, respectful and )be((lient to their I)arents and( respectful 1t stranl',lers. Wivtes are aIllo(wed an Iamolltit of liberty hardly equaled in any (other astern colllltry, nl they selldoml abuse it. They hlave their share of tle( w'ork to (do, but it is a just shlarle and they lperforlm it: witlh(olt (IlleSt-itot ioll and wiithout 't1mbllinl. Thie civilized native is self-respectiing a n(l s( lf-l'restrl aiied to ": remarkable, (le(ree, platient n d(ler mi sf(ortune a1nd for)bel,:ar' in 1 1(1t provocation. lWhen lie( does give way t(-o an811gre, lhowever, lie is as like(ly as not to become for the inonment a maniac:nd l to o some one a flatal injury. H-e is a kind father and a dutiful son. His aged relatives are TIlE PEOP' I.l 0P TIHE PHIILIPPINES. 239 iever left inl want, but are blrougllt to his home to shlare the best thlat il:Iflfds o to te end of hlleir days. Amongr his fellows the Filipino is,2ti;ll( and sociable. lie loves to sing and dance. lie is a born musi(iitl and his performances upon the inst ruiments at his disposal are,>f ten very remarkable. lie is naturally fearless and admlires nothing s) 111Tu(l as bravery in others. Under g(rod officers he makes an excellit- solldier, anll lh is ready to fight to the deaklth for his honor or his l11)1 (1C. Ollt of t(he rinmany wild tribes of thle Philiplines )otlher than those lwhichl lhave b(leel lmelntion(led il con(nection with the descriptions of llhe valri(ous islands, it is necess1ar to mention here but a few more, tli(,e names( of wllich will becon(e familiar to American students of co(iilitio)is in tlhe, PIllililppines. Tlhe wordl goir-rote, which(l was o(rigi;nally the name of a single( tribe, was IEAD-IIUNTERS (exlt('l('(ne to in(clude (all tthe hea(d-lhuti(ngr- tribes of IPL ARCHIPELAG0O. lzion, an(l later became almost syntony1 ous witl wild, so tlhat wh11en one ses of the Igo'irrotes at the present day he I(fe(rs to() a Ilnum11)er of fierce( hill tribes whlich (liffer widely. IleadImuting is practicel by the bGaddlanes, but is for the most part contfiid to ttle sealson wlien the fire-trlee is in bloom. It is said to bet illmossil)le for a vyoung manl. of this tribe to filndl a bride until he hias at least. one head to his credit. There.are a number of otler head]Iunlt-in peoiples, a111ong( whom may be mention)ed tlhe Altasanes and Aplayaos. Not all of th wild eop e wrili eol es are l, (owever, the Tinguia(ies, for instance, beilng a peaceable, well-(lisposed ra1ce. Tlie large island of Mindoro, whllichl lies (lirectly south of Manila )bay, is the least known island in tle nolrthern lPhilippines and is alltost universally avoi(led by white men. The natives frequently refer to it significantly as the wlite man's grave. At the l)resent time it is ce-l(ebrated chiefly for tlie unsavory reputation of its people, tlhe heavin1ss of its rainfall and the deadliness of the niasmla in its fever-slnitt1(11 lo(wlands. Once MinFdoro was famous for its splendid crops of rice and its 1)('(op1(' were peaceable Tagalogs. Tleir prosperity attracted the atteniil of tlihe Moros, wlho raided tlheir towns. Then an epildemic exterIinlated the buffalos, leaving the natives without means of tilling their 240 7 1TiE PEOPLLE OF THEll Pi1 LIPPINElXS. 1 1(n, 1(d cholera didl thie test. Now tlle few poverty-stricke villatges (II1 thle east c(oast which are supp)losed to be 1undertl S8l)alisht l)rotection and controel, alnouniit to little. It is unsafet for whlitce ml to visit in the villages on the wvest coast. The (nce rich fields h ave rO iwn1 up i foremst land and the island is a rendezvous forI dt(espra(It crimin;als wh\ esca pe( fIrom the ncighbol)rilg lpovinces and seek refllug in Mindooll, whelre thley are sItafe IfrOlm pursuit. In tll( iinterior of M.ind(oo l'are a num11'ber of loftNy mountains, til,( hlighest pe'ak a1tltainin,' a 111 alt itlude (of linearly 9,000 fieet. lThese 1mo(1)1 taills and the adjacent lowlads are clotlted in lia tMINl)lORO, Hlf+ij nIfiiet forests which the hand of 111l lias never 1isilTTLE-KN10VN0 I 1S\ NI). tilleurld. Bet wenll the molintaiis and tihe wNe'st: c:toas are 1 extensive plains covered withl lii1 i(' g;rass. IEst (of the ImountIais are lheavily timbered lfowlands ('r)ssed b) Ilm(,(LSI'ls ri vers. There are no) maps or charts of this isla 1d suffic(iently accurlte tl bhe of any value to travelers. The rainfall is (enorlmous for niill monttls1 of the year, and even duringl, the dry s(aso(, from March to May\, vexploration in tlhe inte rio is fl requently inter 'lruptled by the hlavy 'The prnlcipal town (of 1-tie island, considered to be the cap til, is Ca( lap.an, and (thier settlements arlund the co(ast are Manga1tilt, Matn-,sala ( and iNaujanti. (Calapllan is (on tllie inot1lelast (ost, 0ll)0pp)ite Liuzn. The'rie is Io1 anlchora"e and tlle surf runells so fe'vil g (1dig ill" tfhle a(lltilml iImonts thalt steamIers are o()ften forced to carry tlIe mails by without la:din(i. Tlhe only IEulropeans at the c(apital are the nece(ssary ot'(finc iIls a11(1 a few shlo(l-keeplers, while olt:side( (of (alapan hal f ta (1(zen friars form{' tlie entire, Splanish popIulation of tlhe is]la1d. Thlere is a tribe of primitive savages dw(ellinfgl ill Miind(oro, entirely distinct from any found elsewhere in tlhe archipelago. They are (ca1led Manglyans and lbear a very 1)ad r epii-tation for savaagery to strangers. Th'lle -lost exlhaustive exploratioll of Minidoro was mad(e y Professor Worc(ester, who declares tlhat tlhe bad replutation of the Mainl-yans is 1by no imeans justified. Instead of beinl, tlie dreaded hlead-lhunters 1tand (cnnnibals of whomi such alarnin, reports are circulated, they prve1(l to be as harmless as children. Thlle h1ouses of the Maii'vans are of tlie cruldest sort, hnuts wlhi't 7TH11E iE1(0 ) 1,'1 0o TfI 1I7 IJ PPnINVS. 241 iI're ttl'Cre plaltfl lorms of pIles wiilt slieltlers of lealves at)bov tlhem(l. Nativ\s w-(,ar W llut little clothliing a1id livei ill the rudelst fiashioll ill the depl)tll of ilhe florlest. The Matl, yat s are TIr E AN NATIVES 1,olnl1 1)01l1 ill the lowliduls andl ill the mllou-ntaiiIs, the OF MINDORO. 11it ail eers bei ng in every way Superior to the loW 1 Indel( lrs. Thely a l re physic.ally welle devellop(ed aid coimparatively filee frol') dlisease. Tllheir nosess are( very fllt. Their (headls 1fre coverdc withl g,'ret s]hocks of black hlair, often showing a te(l(ency( to curl. Professolr Wor(ceste'r repo'~lrts tlhat tlhe( talle(st of tlhce men was five feet andl ole-liallf inch iln heighlt. Ap\art fron t1 he v(egetables and grain lwhich their cle(arings alffford, tlhcy ecat certailn roots and1 tlubers which growv in tlhe jungle(, as well as aIy birds 11 tell( (c Il (get, ci vet -cts, r.Its, 1mlevsI s akes, lizt1 rds fisll. C(rocodiles they c nsidler a l reat luxIury," talltio, talllhey are seblom1 ta le to (-. "tel 1 otIIc. I II 111111tillo' 111(i ' 11X(' 1)(l\lS e111(1 I});S()IIe (1 I {?.1t1(1 able to caitcli one. In lhuntinrg I hey use bows and poisoned arrows, aniid occasionallvy manage( to b1, ing)II do()n a wild h1og. All of t:he M.Ingyan, vIIs Awl()o 1ae (e(eI (I qu(estlionedl, e('tplatict;ally dleny any 1be)lie(f in;a fluture, life. They do not sl1ow the slight(est (vi(dence of idolatry or any wo\rship or religion of any sort wIT at soever. They are, lIow(eve(r, mo1al in tlheir piersonal relations an(id lio(est in tlle extre(me. Professo(r AW( rcester says: "On tle wholle, aIfter naking sormet-lhat exltesive obse ( rvatio)ns amo:cng the Philippine natives, I am inclinedl to formullat(e tl l'aw thatIt their moIrals ilmprove s tlie sqjlare of itie dlistance from clhurches 1and otlIer so-cailled civilizing' influenc(es incrl(ases." Mjindoro is infested with many lanidits known as Tulisanes, who hunt. in p)arties, robbingo and lmnurdering in tlhe boldest manner, after ti(e fashion o(f busi-ran (gers in tlhe earlier history of Australia. They malke travel in Mindoro exceedingly TUIASANESq THE " BUSII-RANGIN(G (ldangrous. The natural resources of this. island Iare IMITS ldobuliedly gr(eat, but tlhe combination of its ldati-,(ger'()s Tulllis-ales an(1 its exceedingl unlwholesomeness makes it far from a;ttractive for the American traveler. CHAPTEI 1 XV. FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES. Novelties in Animal and Vegetable Life-House Snakes in Place of Cats-Water Buffalo as Beasts of Burden-Wild Buffalo and Deer-Cattle and Goats-Few Carnivorous Animals in the Philippines-Enormous Colonies of Bats-A Field for the Ornithologist-The Source of Birds' Nest Soup-Land and Water Reptiles-The Fish Markets in Manila-Pearl Fisheries in the Sulu IslandsExuberant Vegetation-Rose Bushes Become Trees-Fruits with Strange Narnej and Stranger Flavors-Wealth in the Forests of the Philippines-Beautiful Woods of Great Value-An Opportunity for Enterprise. Tl IE alnilmal and veg:etable life of the Ihlilii lleSppi o(fes a, subject T of enidless interest to the traveler. Nature tlakes strang'-(e forms so) iniverstally that one sees larlldlv a single falliliail lig' in a Phlili)l)ille lad(scape. The trees are d(ifferentt, ilil iowers are (l i fferet, the birds an1(1 aninals are different, while (een tlhe illnsects 11u(po tithe ear.lth a(nd tlhe fish within the sea are altoge(ther inovel. Par(ties of Americall zoologists who have trveled there h(ave f (1ound le islalnds alllmost a. virogin i(eldl for their lal)ors, so little ]h-ave( the Sp)anish (do11( to investi,'gate sc(ielltifically. Not all of the surprises are pleasant, nor does one l]have to be:t z(ooilogist to come early into contact with the animnal life of the Phiilippines. It is necessary if one is to enjoy any comfort (lluring, his residence in tlhe islanls, to rise superior to such trivial things as armies of cockroaclhes and plleltiful mosquitoes, aI(nd rats. The cockroachles grow to a size whic(ll justifies them in being classified as beasts of prey, those three or four inches in length being quite comnmon. They Tlar annoy()ing pests for their destructiveness, playingl halvoc with evelrvthing of leather and paper. Books, shoes and everything of the sort suffer from- theiir attacks. In order to counteract the attacks of the rats, nearly all of tllue older houses inl Manila possess lwhat are c(alle,(d houise-snakes. These 242 A FARMER'S CART IN THE PHILIPPINES Bringing riIe frmn til ai to imarket at Clitalntm. A SOCIABLE GROUP American aaldliers in Mlanila fratternizing with native Filipinos., _ 7-i Xr, < _ II 1-:. r i *~ I r,:"b. HG;~~ ^ -i ICI[~ IR1)3" _.~.mticr sodt_~~r it llaiii frltrizng 3u,& X.Xe?~F~lpjltOL g g I I '~~~~ FILIPINO POLICEMAN WITH PRISONERS Tlie policenain, uniiform iS ot a very distiguisloing oei bit it wilt le seeC i that ire cart % rattan whip for minor punishment or persuasion and a iMalay knife for more urgent use, The prisoners are tied together by the armis. l.'INA ANVD:.) h()A'.I 1 1()I; ' 1 TiI 11'/ 1tll'l'lI S. 24.T,-e lhallilless lbut 1 llre lrepliles, g'enlerall tiwelv(e Or 'foirteenl feet loI, atiit ler aine:i ntly relside ll) ill tilhe ro f land livc ()In il th rI ts. 'lley live betlween til e clot I e (eililin's an11 wxalls o' f the SNAiES Louses 1and tl(e raft ers, lever leaviI ig their at IS 1L)d(As. SNK ES IA 1LXOUSlIIHOII The''1( na:tives ~c.Parry tll(,nhem about Manliila 'for sale,, NEC'ESSITIES. (c1rled l ll ) arolld ba oollltl,(1 poles, to) llic l heir ie.Ul s aIle tied. Tr e PIIisIilip1j1 iIes (iIiII s (I ii(s otai e l va iti of 1)1118lo I I lwhich arv not. fo 1N1( e'lll sewh 'ere. 'Thy ar(e ti r1'i' ll llw i' e i i t ' llo le(' ()' the lilatives;as IaIIbd 0S. ThIlese water buffaloaes aire fom11nd wild il Imost of the larier islands. They are often c(8ught ymoii and t1 amed, after which they are emii ploved for beasts (f burden. rhlley d(1 iiost of the heavy haiuliin and cartinug ot lie coutrvy and atre ve'v e ( dcile, althou.gh11 extravagt;ltly slow. Tley 'reqllire a ldaily uidl t)lathl and will not workl without it. rThe price (of tlie fuill-growin carlabalo lbroken i(to w-rk is not more tI an t l-irt- l d(ollars at tle outsidle adlll s(ineti lles as low as ten dollars. There is a silaller Ibuffalo, ftoutld on111 ill tllt' islanld of Mindlloro, \ wherel it litves in tite (lie,sest j ingle. rlis little a(11illli, called the, lillarall is.la cre(atutre of mIostt icio(llS telipl)per adl apparently untltlajable. It is g-racefull ill shape and mioveielt ilad runs very swiftly. IlFlir Ild( skiln are black and hornss large andt extrelmlelv shlarp. The tiill;arall if trallpped wlill usually kill itself in trying' to esclapei, and in l.V (vent( will ref use( t1, eat. It voluntarily atttacks and kills t-Ie ui(1ch!a rg(er c( ra)lbao. Severall species of deer arle foindl in tIhe archlipelago, ill some localili( es sufici(ent ll 1(' ieiro to become a val t.1 ible addition to tlie 11meat sp1)1 ply. (11One species is h.iardIl lar1ger tlha l a )oat land allnother is still smaller. It is knoM.wn as tlle ANIMAS F;FU1NIVS1 FOOl) clev(vot.ain )r 1 im()ose (leer and is excee(linlv rare. ) MARKET. Wild pig,?s are found ill tlhel isll(ls in g1(reat abuntda lce. T heI Ie live on f00d which prod lices very daiinty flesh andd tli(e nieat is mu11111ch fav(red in lA17OTi. Ther(e Pre 1', n w*olves oPr foxes in the islands and no wildl dl(os. ('attle are extensively ra;ise(l foir beef oil some{ of t11e islan(ls. The Iy are o{f a small humped variety, a1nd in t11he Visayan islands bu1}llocs are otl, en useI(l a;s drafti allimal s. Milk is a;lwa;ys very _2 1; I.'.\.. I. I.\ I7 I.T().! 0i l 7; 1 /I l lI II' iS. S(1tre, XC while fr es h butter ad1 c (leese 8r le t to1 b lIe Iial at 1lany price. (14ll1s allte c'mili 11 11d alie pril rizi'fed lotlh( flo heir lll' ili 1lk alu their flesih. 'Thl e 'iiililplil',s ll't to l i rvll '11'1iv(' ill. iA smallsll willdcat 8 11d t N ) S iseci,s of c iv vet-(. - tS.; 1e 1e t le Io )st ct')11 1 Ui ' )i l 8 I's'ep('re'sentl 11 Vi es of t lle order. 'JThe iimarsulpials whlich 81e so n1e111i'us ill the Aistral1818ai1 colonies atire not ollndi here. In Lizoi anZ1d somite of tile other( ia llids a1'te Ii tlIle(olis', vallietiis o It'f ' lbats ill l'( lir t 11 t 'ers. At tligitfall in soile lace tso s Ihey ae so IiieroIs 8t8 1to resemble a l(^lt flight. of( birds. Th11 lil t l \atillutpire is tIhere who1 pIefers blood o 1 his dliet. Tli eII i he aIre fruiit -bat s oc(ur in eI'oro1111Is colonies. ilieir fur hia~s sm11,!toe' lialt( tvll it-l aliSd (l( e l is ilcl i ca11s1118iol11llv ea't lthem ill. S81llT se; l (11ll8i'v;o b[ s S;1ats a 11 e11a iieois. Natiire has btei as 8 etler1(O1us to lie 1Iilippiles i irds (1 s;8lf 1Ie la I(b ( ll l vi,'lli'11vS ill anll i alls. Sm, ile.;!)(I^ ) Slpecies ]L8lve beeiii ide ( 1tlti 1 l, o liril o li(lgist s. Soni of tf(em a*r4 of Itreat vlll<, I 'liln F UI;D I;is ( n I(( l 11 t l i tlft l', t l '(s l I Itllel) for tIlheir b)ea lt v. 'lTie alre phea11 s( } 'tN t i )i,)ts, pi e'gles, l illr|o{tst, dlclis a 1dl sonl!il'ds of ulreat vairit^. Ilnere illn thl Philip's ils is found tlhat slpecies of swift, or sea-swallow, lhich builds the FIst So favorvted bv thie (Chiiinese as a1 fodI. These nlests are f(omiud at tie piropr season ill caves or pon almost 1ace11 (ssible', i s, i {s 11 till, i;eailii;: li ei i thell is (-te(llided withi (csiderbl)le risk. llThey are mad oli a sail vaI V secretl'ioll wlhich rpidly iaridels o exposure to tili, tir iut a( sl1ubstaM e ieseliblinito white (lu1e ill 1app1earatice. Thle best of 1he tiest l 1Iinilt. almtost t heie wVeiglht in g'old from (le C 1hinlese eic1eS. 'll(The rlelptile's of tlie 'llilippilles are abulIndanllt i va!'ri(ety Vlldl 11mi11 -b e(T. ( No odiles are fo1(1d in i lie freshiN-wat-er lakes andl streams, whe1re they riVow t lrealft size. 1 vev year tlhey kill 11111many1 m horses, buffa;1oes anlld sluliller 'anillill. Thell thlere are i11guanas or1' lare'o lald iandt iXa rsli lizards,.ie larg 'West of w(1 ich ( row somnetiiet eigilit feet in lelniglt. rhlets(e hllwever, ale e 1l togeti),tI harlmlessll, al I(Vhey are c'I 'lsi(lere(l ve'V,(.Il81 (atiig llb- t lset w 1(1 are(.e willinlo ti ) t ry thellm. I1lguana egs aT' al 1}1slt (eX- l' v like urtlle e('Is., tlere e otherll e ( si elll; varieties (If lizards, soule of t11tem living mon thle ground and others in trees, while ill tll holuses ()f Matlila the littlest ones are very commllon and are ti)1 t(o1sildel(ed to be 1 ll nno1anle. l(l( t'' A fYI)I"LC)l^.ORA 01. THI U!/T '/ L /li!': 217 Soie omf1 thle s811cies of SIlakles a0re very ven oI)0MOU1s. aI t Inni 1i loss,iof li0 frolli salle l bile is lo "t eat. L Pvthio)s ad oih lier I Ils of lthe cos (tricoil r l 1(1 ll1 1f1Ii ar very plentifil, but,8 Itheyv a10re Iot po8isoous Ithey aVe Mi 1o wIN V d(reade(,,' r ed Thec skinl's (f tllese. mae a cap)irits xlot~rr at the 1)atllis ARSENAL OF CAVITE the S)lt sni1 rlhd stoimed Uleii stle ck o! tlmlitil"; ot v;Lri, when I)ewev cnmle (down from H1ongko(glr;dl(i drolve tihela (llt IN THE STOCKS FOR THREE DAYS, MANILA with. a p;tive gtlrd. ' 0hS.|f....:X~~~~~~ rI i L c: i Lii~?~i!1 r" o arl Ep X iii?iiiii i A: i i _iiiitiiiiii:.i z z a H (D C O K 2 a tt:bO W.O~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:: I CIAPTER XVII. NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. People of the Islands Not More Indolent Than Might Be Expected of ThemExtreme Age of Some of the Native Industries-What tle Chinese Iave DoneFabrics Made from Pineapple Fibre-Novelty of the Shell Industries-Pearls Made to Order-WTindow Panes of Oyster Shells-The Indispensable BambooThe Cultivation of Cacao —Cocoanut Palms and Their Products-Cotton Cultivation Discouraged by the Spanish-Corn and Potatoes-The Value of RattanRice the Staple Native Food-How Rice is Cultivated-Native Hemp Industries. A ASLAS bewen said in ni earlier nlhape, thfle lntiive Filipilos are by Io 1e 11(1 as ild(olllent s t hey ale. eealll.11 credited w ithi beill, and a1re (lite:s iildust.riolis as thely c(011(ol b)e (xptei d,o b1(o in s811('1 a ('lilmate and uIleIr such a: ovmernm('1:1 entl eim as lI.as existedl (luringll the lSp)anish llla;iistlrati(i. The Fl'TJill(ms 1a:v (' telr(i(' 1wi' atitive ildllullStl'ies,' which ire q1 11 lliile istilt from hlel( co w( ercial indilsrie is which de(lpelid o( the ritst,f tIlle world kor t1hel(r pospelit y and heir liIarlket. It is true tiaft Ilmai of the li native iniwd sit ies have tcalken n011 a comelliri(cial for11i in laite v(1es. Ill 111a a11 se I -thelir product of,(ie sort and 1anot her hlas beeln such as to wvin fav or for it self by proving" its merit. follund inferior races in thleir illlig'raltti0ns. It is to the C(inese that anly of tlhe leading i ndl(lustries, t herefore, are (red itiedl. 'The- mIost illlpolrlttll of tIelse1( i1d(ll1stiwies, from a coi.l(ler(tial point l1 ie, is ve le Isanf. alis olf ll f,l be(aiwn vril flabric flinom he lfibre if tlie pine(apple- leaif. This cloth,-11 klown variously as 1 4 pilla a1 li)e, C..), y.v. 1i7 t,7 I.vl )[.sl 7't\) J.S ()F 7[f- 11 1 I.l,[)v ().'. x\ini s lavor \w 1( ee, (, 1( 1 it is slow,, 1,11 t 11 1,,o 11 it is little Iknwll1, ill the ln i t ed Stts. 't ' lftl l sl t t 11 i tlhe brillia 'ciy:1d1 st lre gtll of silk, ( )1 - lbining. beauty with,Sxcellence i wearinlg q(llilities. HOW PINFAPLE T I rI Iie I ildki; (if t(he ot i ot nt coI pliate d process. Is MilA 1)1. '1'e leave rs are' Ittt(fed der 111 w' a\- llt' 11(1 ill fl( 51, ill 0',tli'r to s'leplaate' the lo)ng tllhea1ds alnl free( thllem foili gu11111, s,1p a1n(d forleig-in 1matter. 'lbe se tihreatd(s (or 8irs are veiv fillne, varyillg illn col ' f'o111i Wit e to;viishl ad yell)owisli Alit(. Aftel beinlg; (a'(fuly washlld by te d l tive e w)ome, n, (lhey arae wovein u11lo a silml( lo)e hlal-lo(1)1 wIl iclh beIar's a strolg (1 reseIlblalnce to the nal i v'( 1Ilos used il (China. The l (fab ric 1'(sult ig is ((l )nsid(lered he nosi ex qhuisite t111t (a11 be lad for IwomanIl's dress in the P1 hilippiies. TilI saime ftabrl'i iS p1roded iI ("Ilba, where it is t(qallr pop1)ll. it is Ilhe c'(sto(mill(, loweve(, isoelo instead of weatving theI clol locally, to shilli tlhe fibirei ill 1b11(es ti SpIlailn, wlihere it is woveln O(l nlilol( pel)rfect loomiis. In Spain and in 1'France til(, fabric is co()silderd one of the mlost beaii]tifIll tlhat cani be o)l)ta;inet(, 1and1 tIho1se A ellrican lwoimenl who have seen it (tui(te ag'ree with di I:et, jildl'llellt The shelll industrll'ies ()of tlit(, il ipils()s arle pecu)( lialrlv inlterestinl' a;(1 altog(thler novel. Nattre ( as furnis'hed iateia in endless quanitity;and varie(ty. The si)1-plest form o(f sthell wAor is to I]ake bracelets anlI rec(klllces out of lit tll e slhells ()f lreaIt vari(et, some no larg(er tlhan ciilldren's 'lass )eads. L.iv shells a(e p]eferred( ( l(eadl shells in al1l 1,le wo()rk and brinl m1uc1h high(er' I'ic(s, live slells of course mleaninlg tlhose( inll which the animal is livin, wIhetn t(aklen from tlhe water. The ovst(e(r shells of mnant species aroe utilized for this work. Some are ('rfectly flat, while others are deep and large. (Co)nclhs are found in numerous variety, widely varied in color and:.sh ape. From small sle8lls s)poos() ()f all sorts arte IaleI. a The bowl tilayve of 1 a brigolt g(olden (clor witlI < l ighlt u1st.e, Ilie ou1lside beiig pel)(a'l-lay or pink. rlhese spoons a1r very 'cheap and (can be1( bouglht in any size for a few cents a (oztn. Fro()m tlhe conch) shellls are niadle ha lndtis(oie bowls, tureens, veget.able lisllhes, sacl)s s, sp1(',1s, dlatles, pIin-boxes, jewel-c:ases, cardl-rec'eivers, ash cu11pS a1111 )(tob(cc() jars. ()One f tI(e iiost- in(testin, itlulest i ilstlries is tlli( utilization of t1ih l'Itilippinel freshl-watelr nuiiss(, l) prloduce plearls and pearl-coverled \ /, ^ lIr/' I) I'. IIA l i )' 17'11 /' / ' XrX )S. Oltili m1,lt' S;-,i will. '!TIlis lm sl:'(d exceed' s ev('en tlhe' ov'st'er ill tllle qlallily t 1 i;l l 2 llu iti l( (IllEalit, of t lie' liq( Or which bV (e'v lp01'ation or,9ff91\.sep sltarati produceal{ (ss mol~the II r -of- 1ea. 'I'lle introductioll o1f a b it (f sallln illt t( fIe m11sstc l will rlesult in tlhe1 I'EAIRI IMAIIADS pr1oduI('t i1o)1 of a 1p(e111 11 cl few weeks, poor inl qtalitv.,, m11411^. o4.f (oullse, but1) st ill s1a I)(1. Ljittle imI(eIs lre p)licl d t in 1111 lussel in the s:!.e wny1,:all l t!1taki enot to be sdod after they arej coale((d withl pea"Il. T'Ihe im'll(ges tlois ohtailed tare 8s0(1d to Bl1uddlliistXs, wlho 1t1ieasillre Illet as,ex('ellelt ' relpr'esentllltiols of their,reat te(aclher. 'Tleo prepa).at io(n of window p ) Sa fp Tho t Ihe filat Manila oyster shells is i1 Ill a ' l' tl 'lde l1 Imol Ii 'l l'i t, llti es. ' she lls lit ( le1n cui t inil t sia I s11sares anI n d o I(he r regular shapes, formin g an ' excellen, 1I t 1 1)I S It i - ile fo g1ass.. ' The shut (l, p(elap)s, half Il(e ligAht, which is not 1an1 ojeci o i( n s c a iltl 8 1 8 (11 1)e, 1141 ill oiaddit 1in 1 ve the q I lity o)f 1lica( of shullti lg' ouIt Iall of t 1he heal..\ \t, lille m1ll;lities (f shell are emplopmyed, the resullillt, tiIits e11 (' truly I 1(lllutit II l, iIl fti ilg, a s1 esI 'ti)on of (eniuill 4(;pa lescelice. ( )n 4l)t II va -i'ti 8 of e11'11 s eXlixil si te enng'ravin is done in low relief, i'lepeseltig laillldscal)pes 1nd igures, with a. most nea II i I 1I di splIy o()f deli icat e( tI I its o(e re I1 wAl 1) e. ( ow1ie slhells, catsyevs, liltlie i1111"(ges of lal tive fiurlies illd shell cai(li(811. are a1( 1 ils 4ph1s)1es kOF THE sidil 11nativ shmlel lies even Ioolil1 or his louse, t.l d MIBOO fronl it lhe falslliols nrats, out-iies for his boats, ^l n ile frilts l implementl s I le'ilin y sorts, llanc -. ads, t bows,i' 1be ~ 111(ins11is. l, s]ool, ()foi s vi bl 1t)ap, water pipes, cupl s is to tlfences, 1 (Ies utr i c 1l it grows,. n I a I ost a I bs-e tt l eed ltly indispednfsabl e. frnislm s to SOO Iluts per ye will rowe siti Za s11(1e te,1 tel(1 (ovn e(1ti1, for ii is providil o(ccuption f1 '14(11, it h Ie f; sl i(l flI t, a(d e I -sied s()oI''IIe at i oi 1 1)( a fts,-,1,,' dentifriclrat-ee' o ae.ie e(, bw w The cakalao I)reet, which p g od'ws1ce tll, chocolte (l, ai1,rl ucs loi' nitseI A,\/ It7 i: /.' x S\'A7, I ttt 1I ///;/' tV.S'. in (hle 'iliilnlesi1, sillce ilt w 8s iitlljl4llt',1' 11 1 4M xico 41l\ i11 tlhe 8"eve1 l t (ent c(lit r lil. T e111 ri c, ii 11 te'd are 1 )4 ille ill hirl 1 1 (lles i ll p,ls. 11: se1,SI atle a isled tlel2 i lie ):,ill ae ll(1 11i (,1vid be rlle tl,'olth ve l, r(ecl(llil )i l tlilil, 1. t 1w 1e S i];te, \ h \ w i(il 1 iw1hi I 11e h)Ive 8itf;1 1111, i 1 f:)' )1 0 I 1 1 len feet. The * lid n(dY sip I' IIOIIK suip)ion, but tho iliIiulSt'y iv lils nlot1 ViI |'1 l;4l4ll l.1 (4'll< (1i] ' 1''1itl I. Ili 1(' lls. I 'I ( l(t)ill(l iiifo14 1(11It ion ii)o 111 ti N 1 t I t i vn 1 I a1 11 4 I <; i I i I l I a 1l l i I V 11 it T(11:1}(1H ili thlis o'i), il (1 c Ii ection with11 the iricuIltilit l c( 1 ditieains NiU J4,,0 8 leii1411 tl onrIW. tlWll '~, i ~lsi 3'n l,:t t 11!llPhililppine is 11dil1s, fflfle IA l~I~H. I T I (1Wt VS le l ri I)I 1 ' I it be 1 1 THEr nionth. The rip rit is 3iARd(1 i nto Ia l rafis Ie(d1o$("S. There is n s(41eldv 1o)51l den4 (1118 1 I,()1 t li1 (1i, Xwliiicl is thlelil il]i1ilillnnt 81i448;t invli-i;illlV 1vlsed 1bv thie naItives 11(] is: t(11(1iilllcs 1 ls i iiill ph ce (, i' of t l '(l 1 1(r (l4i (oo i, ' 111pe' s. 4i (f )1,I:1ns tl1 ri( 'ie'4l t1ie i t i 111led, 1i, s (ex ) t(lle i, 4c lsid(lral le' (1118111iti to) 1,111'il1])( ( '(]Jl.- i is 1,8(41 144,1 111l;.i 'ill" so(4l])s d11tl c(8t)slieti cs. 'I'le (c.i5st1,1 4,il te4111,1'rowS \V il] (411 1118 11V (of tilhe isla llI4s,: d1141 its Iil is ext 1 14(1 in i1 1. 1118 \Nl V o( r 11i 1ht 1m. 1 14 de. I is lIot 1 1;8it icle (11,exp1olr. A specie',l s oi' I1,f 4 )1 1,11 1,.ows wvildl ( 11;11 1 V o4f the isl, 1111s. I'!e iber l ' is t fii s tol f 1) I ), v1 V iel' f'l' w'- ' vi 11', I 111 it i is 118used fo stliftil'l5 ])i11ows 11(1d like 1im'14(os<8s. Lou'15-s5lpie cot4oI (4I1 v I t <(1 1 lute s1l^('e'ssfi11V l's:ise l t1 il 1 o), bil t itls 41 11iitliv(11 Won (tt di( )11tsco t1 l)V the a1 tl li l t fe\ to 1 (h, w It 1 iv\ i I I tol)](l',ll is oI~l;iiKisl, li, Mi-(l va',,'illn fpro 'l, l tifiv til ll dll'r1~d foll. The 4i1h (hi11d vice i is of in lerior px laihi, lite lh l l(ooAt i8r11(iolion. TI'te yi(eld is:1bout 1]l f t s, ls, 11111 sl a l i; tlt] t1 i, lt>lt u -"wo or!hv o' 1 ( o' ])s 'lll 1>fI IW 'iisE,41 in II ea r. l ' lie Imlothods sed it l rice cul llre i d lld flmrtlvest i tv^ of the < v llfndcsl. i xwith Imick rake(s ldriwni liv (ci1(ibtos,. I1 I i I 1. i ri 1e sliools a,e cutll o,.l t, ! Iv im nll s of wooden 11 ils. 'Illl e 12ra-:i; is I'rt' e froill the ]hns-ly hv polildlilo in a wooden oiaelilori aind hlat baskets ae used Ior wiiniow11i0. Veiw r-arel one li(1s s1111plde ioe-iide1 machiielry for ]olllid14 11 ' 11(11 W 1 1112il 1 8,' i1, Iii' il ve is itlii 11 of tle soiit ill 14orli'iI llis.!patlv Span;ishl. The all, ives i l earnl,IlirIeI1l ihe virt is i1 hemp lol i,'foei tIhie Spliisi discoverv of the isla Ils. 11 1 m( d8( e a811 excellelt opi'e, (e1mploviv 14 (l v n 1 a r ll of t(if fle princi les whii-li aire lsedl to-day i i1't mal; '1111fa'tl Ie.! leside's t wistiig 1hle tlii -.als;, t( o ' cod(1s a1 nd I!I N.-t1T11! I 7 A'IO ST1 /ASII ()1' 771I;: II. II'l/.\ )*OS. stlrands, b1Sy 11lso I, (i e d I t l II IId wv ithi Inl r.1it ds in t 1 11i11 11 <11 stlirand ls ) twistin1' anld a1 (ecoid balidi (lil. Thie brtided rlopes wee., ()often quite flat an1d were pract ic ally sl t,1( I. They e1, still utilized as harness for their ponllies a11ld buffaloels (iand fo ii llon tiihei p)rililive water clart. Ile,s:mt 1(whempe s1( p ar used Iom tihe malll, in saiIdals and t rude 1 s a1d4 for learly e1veir pipose to which (Ie leatlli thioum o1r strap is ut by s '(vage races. A\ llIl l( rci l 1t In' s (f Fran l(,c ( crmainy and Englaond. ('111-Al"I'EJU -XVf11. THE COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES. The Land Where Our Ropes Come From-How Hemp is Grown-The Principal Hemp Ports of the Archipelago-Extracting the Fibre from the PlantWasteful Methods of the Natives-Sugar Land and the Crop It YieldsMethods of Extracting Sugar from Cane-Manila Tobacco and Cigars-When Tobacco Was a Government Monopoly-Value of the Export Trade-Great Cigar Factories of Manila-The Coffee of the Philippines-Gutta Percha in Mindanao-European Firms Control the Export Trade-How to Reach the Philippines-Inter-island Communication. T TI HE miost notlable and lprofitable illdustry of tle l'lltilippielt islali(ls, the one o which1 is actually essential to t}ie world's convelniellce, is the production of Manila liem 1), froml which our r e()S re llmad(e. TiShis archipelago has longI furnished tle who1le wowrld with its entilre su:pply of the fiber. T]e only attempilt to rodulllce lheimp outside of tli( l'l ililppuines which ]haqs mlletf with any success whllatsoever, is olle recenlitl iln North Borlneo, Ibut this lhas not beenll cintiltued lolng enlouIgh to affect the indlistry iin the P'lilippinles. The product is somethilng enormous. The average number of bales exported for the years 1888 to) 1897 was 6518,97, but the output lias beeI steadily increasing and in 1897 it reac(ed a total of 82of,028 bales. Manila hemp, known in the Plililpp ines as abaca, is lie filber of a \ild plantain. Its plants so closely reseilible (ilthse of tilh1 edlible h;annana that only an expert ca:n distinguish thlem. Abaca- will nlot live( atl swampy land, yet it requlires considerable moisture, so must 1(, sllthaded by trees which can resist the sun. The best Iplants are grownl IIt a moderate elevation, on hlillsides from which only the smaller forest1tr'es halve been cut. The best thus far grown 11as been raised in Leyte,.5i:idtuql a:nd Ihe d (list-ric'ts of Sorsgon and bat in Luzo. 2063 ll( )6l (.1/, I,,C(/, I L /.1 / ) ' / ( i 1, ' 4 /i I1 I V I'/l ls. Elx'j t MXaiia its(elf, th1e priil pal)l m ll l porlts '11 i ill(he (('lentrll a11(1 sott 1ert1n islandil's (of ithe airc(lIipe.laio. I Ioil1) is oie of smilte ill8mpo-;(t ance. The gIvea te(st, I ( hever, is (,, lebn, an Id otilhelt.; 1i.M1 1 011I's ' lfll' 1r o ('(111iliI(''(ce in il1 p a(' 1 li).e ( tbaloll 11 ()an, loit SOlUI'IIEIN ISIANSisl(Iinl (if ^8i1^l'a 81n1 Taclobai, oI the islind of Levt. (,o iiit in iii \l, 1 iip ii)dill stlv. Sihi^, at ( t' ilv 'igao, a xlie (iIo11 l( asteii eXl'iinitv (of Alind Ia o is. 1 i ao llar'e oli, sl1et it ships ()li(' o o l( t s b(sit l hei p tislt (clil'. s inlito i ll Ala il la liai'rket alll' it is l,of oise(fll(i lt ii1po)lr' t al lt{ il t1he isliands. ''ltle sl'1indlrl st1'( 1 t f il( 1' x( 'l li'i ilal ailli is t'll(ve 'lop"d iliy o 'lj1 1 ll lwill', hlifi'!-'itlitl le liles, h 1,' I Ii 11 ll 'liie (It Ill' lile 1ib. sIn oldlt l tI c 'xtl l 'lt ' it i111 plat t is cl t and l lli l f-sf1 ( m 1 e11 i s(epll arlld lan.Sd a illowled' to wilt If' a shlot t iii(1'. E1lach is I: w ', l detl',awi Iet n a b'lock of wood and a1 knife hi lolled to ( lie i}l( \ l 'oc, a provided wih i at lever ( 11(1 l t al read so that it (.1can be v il 'held dow'i on,lie s lit' i. -l! tlis means -the pulp is icrapeil from tihe fiber, l iicll is woullid alo'11 illd1 a slic;k as fast' as it is d(rawni from dlelr tt(lie 11i i fe. The wh 11ole litl I illiachille is so absll dl yiv simple, wit I its 10)12h1 c(1ving knif e ami 11ite levers, ihat it 1haI II l ( iseems l t e to o e o d wit It l t(: la boraIlte 1 a nsforiati ol thai t aIkes p)1lc' )om11 the tall ti(. es to the slender wlite fiber. t One an (ll )ca'8' tcile l ol 11t''nv-ive pl1) ds I 11(, ofIt'IIle p a (,day. W lieii i is 'reliembered t118a it le( arvest Imfor 1T was tiore than 82,l ba( It, weil1in lli" 240) poiunds ea;1ch, it seems t l o'e io(e retiia,kable lha t so rude inn iistruiitiii soldtl have1 suili an iipoltant patil t) pla. After Ibeingll drawnl flroml Ihe lealves -tlt h11tllip is nlext siprea1d illn W sun fr( at least live hIolurs to drv, whien if (.ali) le immedilatelv baled. Most of he1 liemi p p1esseAs it 11e lv Itman pvower'. Aba.ca is usually propagatled by t nsplaiit in' tlie suckers thalit spliini" ftroum its (oolts. It itachI ts li luIii iy i I1 t lutee veals fioml IIell(SE (c Itt ilg s atil inill four yeais romil seel. It- shoiul hI 1*IlL ot\ whlt eI i t l I o ers, as I'liu i itig wea' lens th le iher. XOKK T'i'(here arie no ils"ect pests t ha t injure1 thie gvrowini, plilt to aiiv extient. It is uecessarvy to implov nat-i\ve laboireis aiid tIl hex must be clos'ls -elv wateled, ais 1lhex are inclilnel 1t all)ow h I'e petioles Io) irot a1m to I-use se11r1aed LiivieVs iil (11dawinig HH" NATIVE HUCIKSTER OF MANILA oInal ForuuBs of the Orient aond miany of Europe and Spanis i Am rica, th mrket supplies for ioisehold use are carried through the streets,- by hucksters, who rry their wares energetically, SPINNING IN MANILA a~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ II~V Tack el-Anninglw-neeilt s ais looffi; usec In the anufacture of Textile fiab -iss in the Ph;Iiil)plinr-ei.~:ls -I ( tee f~ i Yl()wtaiis~ c 1t *f~o ';~ivilt, z ai- ill Pretax tYi C0U3 try. NeeV-3rdlelscsr the C-:shiaese merchants anldj ofe-ratilves. tam Ages {rt 'Nlit2Ila be1 l.3 TV.1 -]tx xllrt Xfiltt} > v>l tl3*11 u osist~ fr{)n~ fisi~AIt)~' COiMME lIIC AIC,, 1 INf)(7i TSTIJ.S Q)J, '[I J IIIII I fJPIN.ES3. 2C7 liber, 1111 s l'lecreasilg,i tll e 11)41 of extlractil" it lbult sacriiit-ilg its, s tren gt. Aboult tllirty p1er cent of tll1 fibter is wasted ll y 1 e t p)reset illet tliol (of extraction and a fortunlle 1ulndoubt)l(ly avwaits the manll il'genious lnol(ugh to devise a suitable labol)r-savilg iachllie to ltake tle pltace of the simple (levice at present ulse( for (rhawing it. Nliiielerou s att(epiits 1o nmeet tis wanlt lhayve tIeen made ilt thle past, lbut t]ie various co(ntrivances have all failed t lhrollo glh ithier b1reakinll thlie fiber o r r (is(colo}ri,1g it. To be of lra(tlic.al valule la 111:.cil(nie l1ll sti e ti liglht enoul(ug to) be rea(dilv carried ab1ou1t by a few i ien. ITid(ler existi,,' co(1i t ions:l) abaca plantahltions are estiiiatedl to vield i1ider c4a reful maiinI iageiuenl. 11 a-ll 1411l returnil of thirty per (ceii on t nhe iIIvestimienl. lThe se((il(od com()melrcial ilndustry o(f the Philippilnes- in its imll)rtilace as an export is suga;r g1o'.witng'. The best sugLar l;1(1 is founlll in the island of Neogros andl n(ot umi(e, 1tI an lIalf of it is under cu1livai(onl. G(ood uncleared landil sells for 50) )(per ac(re( and cleared land fo,; IT5. TI'lhe value of la1(! sllitedl to raising sugar varies with t-le facilities for drainage and the distancet fromi mianrket. Partially exhausted l1and near Manila brings as mulch as.-$115 anl acre, while Luzon land producing a third lmore sugar, but at a (listlan(e from t-le capital or a;ny other g(ood lport, sells at $30. All o)f thl(ese values are estimated in the silver (.urrenc' y ()f itie islands. TheI construction of railways w(ould (lo 11much lo open lup) new co.untry and readjust values. The sugar estates in the lPhilippine isla-nds usually are small, not itiore( than a dozen of Ilthe( produ(cing( al)bove 1,000( to(ns eactl per annum.. In spite of this fact, the cr'o(p has 1(,been a large one. In 1888 exports re(ac:,hed their mlaxilnumn w itlh mlore tlhain 200,000 to(ns. Since that tiime tlh(,y have falllen off, )owilg to tlie incl(reased plrodulction of beet sugar and the c('onsequcll't (l('lepreciation )of tlhat )tb tained fronm cane. There are l(cal variatlions in thle production of sugar in the Philippine(s, althoulgh thl( e(sseutti;l )pr(cesses are abolut the samne as in oili(er countries. Tahiti c(llane is lpante in iLuIzon, and Java C.an1( in the southern islands. Nearly all the Negros KINI) OF SU(.ll.. MACHINERY,grinding mills are of European nmake. Antiquated si) w(oo)den or stone crushers, run by buff:alo power, are ('xtensively us(ld in the ()tlier sugar-prolducing (listricts. TraiSlorlt a 2'(8 I C I(::. C.. 11, 1\. '' )LS1't IS 01,' '1111 1'1J11 I'I'll1NES. tion to thell coast is lby )litffalo clart (r by wIat er. Ntegr1os lIas II Iport, which will admliti larg'Ce veNssels, anld suIgar s s sIst b)e slip)pd1 t l oil o ill sill 111 Ste(lIll('ers (}r scht'1()o iers. I]l the nlortherln Philippilles thie syrup f1rml t1 i( bo)liilg panis is porlled( into pololis (althlien pots, liolditng about i &() p)outilds each, and is thetn all(owed t(o draii. le mll(asses, wlhich is ca'llht ill jars is soldl to distilleries for makiig alcoolii. lln Neoos the mllethodl is different. The syrup i il l is billyed ioiler alod is Iiiialiy plurteil i1%) 1lai e wxoo(detI1 troughlls a(l stirre(d witlh shovels until it (cols, formilig a dirv suga"I whlich is ready to pack at once. TIe sugar pimi dced by ile 11etho1d first delscriled is ca llt'li "'(I '(cl" siL1ar. It 1tmst be b1roke( ip 1l1(1 stl-11-d(ied befor)e it can e11 sitilSipped. lTlhe cigarl factories (of Manila are lie ct liief l(ocal iiidustryv of t lie (.it v. The 111anufactture (If tobacco( plroduicts ias been ( t1le chief sorlce of revenue 11under the Spanishi regime, (to chu(111rch and stlate as well (as to thle mlerchalits. Iicludiigv the raisilg of( the tobacco) by field labor(ers o( thle pilailitations andlll the 111takers of the trIade supplies, tilh industry gives enployment to several hundred tIousanid peoPle. The fallous Manlila tobacco() is a de'sce(llnallt (}f p)lalts Ibroullt flrom Melxic( tol the Philippiines by Illissionlaries ill theli latter part of i lie seveint eetlt hi c-(itfury. T1 v e ph1lants thoi;rished l ii their new home ad11( t he natives s00 becalme exceedingly fold( ()f tobacc(. Duringt, the first two centuries of Spanlish rule, little (attenlltion was paidl to tille c(1ltiva-itioln ()f tobacco,'( bt il 781 a 'Lvall d(Iecre(e of Spai, i declared the entire ttobacc(o busiliess of LuzoiI to 1(e S'PAIN AND a v11 eII t 111 11ono()ol. T1e atives were comTIlE MONOIPOLY~ 0o1 TOB1AO((:O. 1 11pelled to rais5e it lagainstlls lthe'ir will, olutItrage()l1s II})sei,('s arose and rioting ouftlen r'esulted. By on, e exlpedlieit after anLot(her llnd laws of rem(larkablle cruelt v, t:he Slpais succeeded in raising, the revenue froml a1l)(llut two mlilliois iln 1S40 to five milliions in 1t859 and eighlt millions in 1870. Natives were comlpelledl to ra'ise( tobacco whtere before they pllanted ('orn and ri( ce. Finally another law was passed lwlereby any lland not cultivatedt in tobacco was tappropriated by the governmient and given to ny appointee who ouldl devote it to tihat pl)rpose. Under tyrannly and starvation the natives rebelled and grleat violence was shown by the soldiers who ( put (lotvnt C'( 1il/lI V'(c./. I./\ '1)( '1 " II:'Y () 'I i1 /l /)'ii / /.1 /' /:I. 2D (hle' i slill'"'('l il1. I'3ll i hist (l iv i' odi L';-<2,f 1SS, I (11 llmo op ly, \vas1;it las a1olil itshed!bi!l ' 1a)w le i th whole dis', ' 'ael 'fi'l'll bl I I easil 'II \4 s hrmlought to an enditi. AI' tho11< I11 t I t i) ti! is1 (iii(. is I ci si he choices'(' t t1(' 1 o, 11 ' i( isl' verill!esxxs cill e!,1. 'I' I alsl coptlli l ral'; - tiv ly i tI I t'i t I 1 I tI I 'l't'it,! I it (i isil i l! i prov (I I I 1 iiy. 'i'l 1i, is \\( i 11 'Sfi i i l ilit 1t l. '' i 11t i t(IJ!s11 il, i ti.,l l e 0 411.!it!I J() ' ci( i S 1,, NV, II.Ie It ti I I II I i l i l e. 'il' l,11~l 10 (ll hl iiiil ls 1l il(I'i'f ' I t!,ly \ Smokeslli l;' ill lleI' ishlilds, Il;Ili\i'v ;I:11'es'!l: ill( I iv'llX tllo s"1dsl \ Vii f ll i ral v lll-s. The I C \ il ( e ll( tl\'( P( ro llo V il i i st, wel Il'N1 l' I I:I II1 \v i I II c(^xc,ItIli t per'; It i v s('. ( i ) i(' o f x(' I I IIt (i IIm lit. is I'( 1:idI ]II' N ill t he' Plhliilippilles, i coI s ide al I, t ) I 3 ( I 1 1 I I " I I t, wt I n i 4, (-I I -I I w;r ( te if 1p4. n I o s I I t ( I vf '< t;l t r(, l'(i lli ' l ' ( ('!)lt: cnq) () el r jl ' r i's - 'i a11n VI tll.I Y <31pO,'('.('\('111! fI i<''. t'(XS t'.lill ('liil~'ll. rl'lif' [}1181k{':i l *) ill CONDITION'S I:st(, are *,i( c,.(l frol,I l l ll\e t lllrees by( h d 'll, ea d 1 d OFC iFTll"E \l for l I few\l dayi~ s, a:d tI ('1'4iwll wa1sheidll' t-o < t o lof I i J1 K^.. ro il \t'(i: to1 t' lI. TJ: lImost ext es;i ve planat I.ions arIe ear( i I','altl a s' 4~~~~ ~ 'IIT'iE 7 C2T (). 1i:iJ/./I'c7..:\7.iS AI/'11: (1 1'F /1 1'll// II/77 iV/IS. ill ll1e 4 is o fll11 i ( L z11n 1:,- l. 'I'lle co le;i 1 ill the Ph1'ilippiles ixs 41' 1(1e,salllm v\ 10:.ieties a1l4d qa llities ' s (tIV II oI ti e\l Dutch l as Il llilndiall 1),s-e S io]s:il (a a; e j ti:i fvo a l ii)(':'X l),:is ili~' lw ~, ~,l' i1::':;!:,,, I~:: i' ~i~':ll i[: il lxl t( IkI'l l l,i (1>iK f14\\ ol 1,)18s 1 14iK I \vo o t S14' -li \4 'li l \ 1 1 1114' it bi o1 war. \^} T heir ' 'li: cxi:tir' t! rt,'l t, i! i:':l'|m, s ji t~,:i { (',,!~! |. |.: il;il ill\( h f(,~tl ~ l'<(,ltl ooIi (1h(eIT. T'lie native t11( ('1' were' then illfo fl1ed that tilbe would lnotl be takeln prisoers. Their joy alt lieavillg this was 111bo11ull(led. Thev (Xhiitiled the ildest; ('(t, llsias 1 delilht, te(ar ill" ()Tt their Spanlish unifoiliirs cand )lbutlis11 andi welcomiling tIle att1 t e welilr eyl\ he l(relizyeved of Span1)lish rile. They were:assured thaiti they would be well e(ared for. T1he Awllri''an sliips sailted on tthe llorniliilng of Juile ''22. lwThe onlv American residenit at Gu 11111 waS a inatl furalized (itize(1L of Spanlish)ll birthi, l1a1illed rra 'ctis51 o rthsah l. Hlie was gi ven temporary cltar,' of the reils of go'vernei 'l by ( Captainl (1lass iand was left tlheres in lhis sulpremac('ll 1(l 'd lorli, oulr first ('colonial governor. Tlie next infora'tliton1 which reache 'ld lthe United( States concernn1, (G1/1u'm was (Ion thel( last dtay of l)ecember, six ll(ontlhs ft(er til( go elrnor lald 1)(bee installed, M in plow(er. The Brit ish schooner EIs eralda, whlie]h arrived at ManIiila, reported that after l tihe ('1larlesto:( left tlhe island in June, the Spanli:ards refused to recognize Iflie tatlhorit:y of Fra-lncis PoIlrtlusa.li, 1an-d Jose Sist o, a forme'r l)public ad(mlinisttrator, was dleclaIe d goverIoIl(r'. Ie afirilled piart of tihe nllat ive,1ard4s, (collected a ta-x (f G8 a man All 1nd sec(rete(d fifteenl ton)s (of powderi and a small stock of otilher 8 miuunit:ionl whlen the island was taken by the A eri(ans. Franicis Port 1a8(1, lwhomi tllhe offi(ers of tIlie nllited Stante(s cruliser (1Charleston left i. chlarg'e of tlie isla1(nd of (C1ua, beinlr the only Anieri.can (citizen there, is a. natiive( of BFarcelona, Spaini, where lie was born about tlirtly years go. He took out his (,itizenship papers in Chlicagr during the veatr 1.488. Portlus8(11 (calne to Clhic(ago in 1SSMG. IIe was the son of:a wvealthly merhi''a]nt of Barcelona, Spain, wAio hlad nunierouls -tradingr vessel(s inl th-ie P]hilippines and othler islands of tl(e Sou{th Seas. While a l)ov Portussnflch traveled cofnsidera()ly on his fathler's ships. 'ji X,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Ii~ THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE NEAR MANILA dranma aas its d ev otees i n t ie Phlippines the sant e as elsewtiere and the Span ish theatrs in Matilta provid e Europeman plays af idc peras wi: tle nat- fie uich of terettneniioeartet-ofkteoeiutae their eitllertainmerlt ill OpDensair tlieaters like tlie Onle iii astrated; LL z~ wsrr zs d 031 H.-~ $1;~ il~ 0 I PEASANT HOMES IN THE INTERIOR OF LUZON, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS Tthe gorgeous luxurianee of tropical ve etatio i5s wvell slhowil in thre acconifaanving ililtstratiton. Cocoanut palms grs3w Qll everv hand and be vold doutlt are nature's best gift to the people of these islands. The nuts provide foodl and drit, The trees ltoibrd grateful shade. Frotl the bark nattines Neaure ctttlting, wlatS and wall hangings for their Ihouses wlhi1 often are butlt of the trees aod thatclted srtth the satne barl or the great leaves, The cocoanut palm hias been called aptlv, I ThILe Giraffe of Vegetatiotl. .~ ~I~ — s~~~i~~- ~ 8 _w. rr 'i #r Brt_ iI 11 [ t ~ i 1~i6aqn. A 't'r A 'lhe~~rs~~ ette wx 4al~ tla ~iC3turt ~~i ]ihl clad Fll piu)eitm(os ltdnltdayn1r lbre e 'ill' L..JD AADRONES AN)D 07tI '111,lAC 1.!). -1 \ )S. 279 A fter liis flIat her'ls l(eatli ald be(lo'(:re(i 11( la1 reached l( ( lis inaljol'iy IraLncis Plorllusach left loelln:, wh'ich hadl bee]I n ml) lad u Ibeal)'rable by tie ty'rannllly of a( elder bro her, lie sippe1 a a sal ir before the 11mast, aInd visite all arts o(f the globe, 1fil8ly l1i1(1ng in Ai erica. Soon( after lie becaite a citizen of tlie I iteldl Stlte(s lie left (i(.cago() an(ll (.went o t ille i I'ific: (oast. lie w.as II ere lost track of by vlis (l(hiago friends, bt t was known lie intelnded to sail for tlhe Soutll Se(as and finally ret]urn lhome.1and clainl Ilhe fortnune left by his father. Whiile tl(e go()ver\nr of Gluall was having trouble( with lhis (o)istitllnls s tlie:t(dlilllistlral i()l iI tIlle lniit:(ed States wav;s airrlnging pl)l:tls for liis rel(ease alndl the (llpel l(ellt (of t-li( latlent,reM!0AKICi, FORMAL source(s of the.1 (,colo)ny. O() D)ec(e(i)mber 2:' ordrs were AI SIORAl POSSESSION sent to (olllllander T'laussig of tle Belnnington at Oly lUAM. 11lonolulu to) p'roceed with tll (dispatchl( to totle ladrlonle islandis, ad( assume l)pssessioTn, illn tlhe namlle of tlie JUnited States, of 11a property )l o thl islllland f (G1am whic belonged tle Spanish crown. Plans were made to establlish suchl works as ws tld be nlecessary for tlie creation of a naval stationl for lnit(edl Stiates vessels, land it was decided to begin work as proimpt:ly as possible. A few days later Catlptain!:ichliard P. eary,. S. N., receiv (ed official orders of hlis tassi(nmlent a:s naval,gover'or ()f Guam. Captain Leary is the tlird officer fromI Charlestown undler orlders to go to that place. Lieutennt-Colon(l Pope is to colmmand tle marine garrison force, with First Lie(utenant Lo-ng, I. S. AM. C., as lis assistant. Thle greater portion of tlhe marine del-ail will also gro from tllhis station, nearly fifty men _now1 being included iln tle list of volunteers Awv li;have asked for duty withl tle detachment. It is evident that tlhere is going to be a great bo)om) at (llaml a 10oomn such as never was knowln b)efo1{re anywhlere in that lparlt o f the wworld, for the secretary of thle navy is about to maklle a conltract witli a New York firmn for tlie c(onstruction of an extenlsive and 1 co1l lmlle naval station, including repair shops, barraclks, supply stalt.ion,:arsenal, c(aling docks and the most modern and (onvei(ent facilities for 1-oading, unloadin and i ng an reaiin si. Tlie first (ontract will amount t about $300,000, and as all the nllterial and the men will have to be 2S0 TI/ /L..-Ifo?(),S i. T) I 07jf.-R PIC/LC L -lTIV)S. t1akle( frolll tllis (c'11ntr1 ' 1.)' steaelll'l', e'verx'y i ll( f i ( 1' t ie ill tber and a111 tI IIe iiichliier and11(1 tools aind eve tihel( 11(1 amd 00 or O workmiln, arlll'ill'es 11( Illi'lelilani', t ll( lp) lillltioll (f t l11( isllandl will 1be (doubil ied tald its wealt I Will 1 its I Ict ill;e 1 )dS( i! a deo(ree l( bevoI II all precedelt There are between 600 and 7OO sonls on the island of Guamil all 1(,d. Most (f lthem1 ' are tives. 'I rle remiailldelr are llllalIn drif1t1 wood() tI hat lias st1ianded t (here dlmilnoii tIheI' last It) or 0l ree centuriit s and frow1ii Nlp wit il tlie ( 0ilrv. \Ailol' t1lie otlelr liilig's {,ail'(ld for. by ltle, Sle'iticatiolis is a buIilding llat will fIlr Iisli suit able l, ia rt' rs for a nal iK1i it eli'l rdf ^0() n(,l lI)lit t li1 molst eXIpesive pice' ( of wvork will b1e:t11 ir'o l pit'' 11<':a ly a ln ill(!l,'. II 0 InI4l Lieut iht IIIa t 1. II. INI ill of it h O I onrteIIth II IIIfaiitr w as w it I ll Ie tiIst 'X l,(li tii to Al I ilia a lI d r elat:l i tcrs( (l it iII i i' idelits ( I' - itcl witi 1s i jtl onrle\\l. In a l ot1('l to his iot lir Lie iitelIat M Iullx '1 slll])s(( vyo waniit to) Il1e ' afll lboult Illte great I baitlle of (inani. Well, IwO CaIne aiiroii0 d lie l 1(o I1theri' pa11t o t ihe islaild very (arly yesterda 1uiorl; lil,, *lnll(e 20. 2 The ( Ch;iarlesti o wenit into lte( bi(ay t(an ir ed a sIhot t It tl fort, butl if (dli d not aiiswIX v er. Soon), lhowWHA L A S ever, ( l>)o1t (11 iie fiomi shore brinmriui a representaSAW IN T1IlE? IS YDRWNFS ltv^ e l (,heovernolr, whio miade thie imost. pro)fuse apol-,o)i.jes fo) not anuswelring tlie, stalute and t iving as the reason tlhat hle had no ) owd(er. Th'}at's a1ll, so far, of th1e battle of (Gua11. The governor's reIpres(entative was ilformled of tlhe existence of war and that -they would lhave to s111relller 111d ( ome on bo.)ard next day at 9 o)'lo)ek; also tiat if thy lmade aiyv resistance we would s ack the t own. Th iw i (li( iIot (0le 11 i he a-lIlhointed l ilile, so soml1e ariells fromll i ie CII arleston a nd somn e ( )r(eon tIroops from the Australia were loaded inito boats. S0(il titis, lhe Sp)al11iadt(hs L11s1111(;11 I si S1i"' ordetl'1 'l' inl sailiing for (1 8I1i1 directed lhimi to ind \ae islandi, 2,001) mile('s vest of Hloolm 11111 111u l1,J0) 0ioles ea.st of ( v18 1. le w8as to0 take possessio of thii's lonlely sot Splin mid-c( "'lll and fo11111;'1' a ll i ex it,'!'" to t he 1 111 li Slates. This i d 41a Iiove1d al s8oe 1 of I.ars ago by I Iom maI inIer \Ylkes Iwhile (1 silrveyl ig' expedit i 11. It is ulilnliinlbited((, bIIIt a few.tcrI'e ill ext'lit, bl t it IllS;11 'tX lli t 'axc I lt I 'll i ', wh ayl w Iell 1ll ' 1 v ' fon'lldl 11f5(l o1e0111' day as a8. (coalillg' base, a1dl i iXs ad1111ai1blyv sit Iated1 fom. c(able 88 1 i ion to break iti e tl300-,1il e si tretch bett1 1 ) wee1 l tI 11 Ol1l1 1 an ldt (irani, Wlilic, Ii 11;ccoU1nt of itiN exceediL11 lIetlt11, wll 1l,ilake a sutl1tlaritel,,( libl, vel'y d1iliui11t, if 1it i pli osi5 lel1,; t1) ope)41 te.. IThe islan d,f K1s8'e, or Stron^'s isla1Id, Nw,1ich ltie I ited Stlates wants li3to sec(1111re 1 (l coilg ad(1 cable s8itioll lies18 in 4110e mid-I4c-lf4ic. -a 11 of I 11he ( 1 1( i oles d111 lea l v. 1 t eI ot l(ei is l111dS THE ISLANI) I 1 I he I' ( 114 aie o:al iisladls-aere stris 1' r E i tKEN If 18i11 lxvilg o.1' t1 e (04:8 l's bosom1l like a ('I'xcu'ed rib1'(o11. ult _KIssie is almost roud1l, Awitlh hiih lills;111n a Iat A-1riet v of ve'eta,)io. Thieie 810 c(leek S a14d1 s8ma1 ll lakes nest linl in bet wen 4I1 e iils,; 108t 8 I veS 1144 1 1 ek fro b 0 808seIe a 81d ill tI hose eaves t1oumsaInI1ds of )a (tS s8l((ee)p at (1 ayi mIIe. Their rushilng out -t sunse1 tt i,8 like otal), 10( nring lof e scping wind. All a1'1illd the island, excep(]t oppos'(Sit ihie hlllabo l lilolitlx, is a hie oi f coa ll reef, whlere til se)break (1s 81r e blo ken inlo 811 waves 11tt c I 81111ot do Il1e d181.lge ((1 shore thait wo11'Nld 1 e wrou11211gt by Ile openl s8a0 if it- ever reachled t1'1)e8101. Tf the proposed coaling st i tion is b tilt it will 1111(doubtoedly be o)1l Ih'e norlthIi 81d1 wesI sid(e of Wea (Itlher a rlbor. At t-is point Illre is 1 1br)1(ad(1 s1(4ech o1f cop ((1 * P1t ivelV low' e., lve gjd and ae 1 or for d(1Ii ting pulrposes.1could b1e l)piped f-rol t'll little lakes u)p allong the hills, if the creeks emplting' ilnt the bay did inot supply enoughl. On1e Cnnot T7/I1,!. IJl)/l )A\li. S. \!) ()7 /J,,/t A PT IC // ItC J L. L. I2S )S. 2;.> 4xpilet! a itI l i 1 o1 l ' I i', t ] 111(( s i;. I1'i 1 ' I'-1.1,t' 2 1e11 I,v l't W8 I(''e s'p111p1t, I lll FoI' ihe pull-p ses('; of a i -4 1le a1 nd4 coalinig st'al i4 t 11re is ai si. ciei c i, I, ] II o; t I4, o l ali V 11 ch be tl ( s t e: tst t 11 han, e t wa er Itln11(1 (,] 11ost i (,i e1' sl8t-sea; islallnds. I'('lThere;a e i a, tis,I o' t( l is ll W 1, i1 (oi)1118s'< foW (Vei l(lie siiiallesi i sl't i II tie s I IlI'i 1.' 1188 11 1)1 Iit< s, 1 i):e otlv 4V,1 i )l'l 2l!0( of (' 1 1i',,cth of the Pasig river was swuing' into t1-le town and routed thle Filipinos after a lively battle. Before the men were in the field, however, shells were thrown from the guns of A(ldlij l I)ewey's ships for a full half-hour. The natives were badly demlor;alized and had lost he-avily before the real fighting began. The tAmerican land forces were hurried forward at 3:40 in the afternoon and vwitlhii tw(o hours tlhe (enemly were utterly routed and the village was redllced to ashes. The next stronghold where the insurgents mlade a stand rwa Malabon, out of whlicl pllace they were driven by the American troop'I TWAR AND PEACE IN TIHE PHIIIIiPINES. 295. olnl Feb'tlullary 1 1, S'etti llg lire to the townll as t lhev retretel. Tl llonllit 0r Iollna dllock amld the cruiser Charleston shelled the insulllrget'1 o(lutplsts andl drove thell t)\ward the 1moun- AEN-OIAk t il s, \while lthe Amll(erican colun was advxancing. In TlE INSUIGETL S. TIlE INSURGENTS. tlhe at{talck the Ailierican iarmly sutlffre'd a loss of tw() killled:nlld nine woul(ndedt, the insurgl'et loss was heavy. After the retrleat of ll he inslll'urgetil forces, plains showillng a ilieditated attack up1on Manila \ were 4dis(co(ver(,d. Filghting be tfore Manila, was now illterrullltedl for a f{ew days, except for uniiiMport lant skirmllishes between outposts (f the o)pposing armies. Thle Auiericaii aut11horities in Manila, howwever, had quite enough to do to g lardl t l'e cit-y from t threatened uprisings. It was believed at one timel thallt tlhere was a plan to burn the city and many alleged conspiriatorls were arrested. It was well understood that the peo(ple of (lie city and the suburban villages were in sympathy with the insurlentts and would take any chance to assist thelm. On February 14, somlle of the{ rebels haiving taken possession of houses near the outlposts, a skirmiish follo(wed aind nine mnmn in a Califonia 1regiimen t were kil led and wounded before lie enemy were driveni out-. A gunboat. shelled ilthe villages, drivillng tle Filipinos toward lle fam(ouis lake(, Lagu,,~na de Blay. By this tirme thle Amellrican (outposts were exteli(ded to a losition twelve mliles beynd1 thle city. Another skirmish (:occurred o{n the Tariquina roadl on February 18, in which so()me twenty Almericans were k1illed and woundedl. A day later wortd a(.ine that the ('aliforniai volulllteers hiad abantdonedl Guadaloupe church, setting it on li1t, and rel tire( tI() SLan P'edro Mac(ati. The rebels still heldl tlit country Il tlie viciniit y of (uadalloupe, Pasig and Patero, despite tlhe efforts of the gunbolats to ldislodge themll from the jungle on both sides of tle river. The lheat wals intense and increasing daily, so tl tiat tle iNmericaln soldiers were sufferinglo great-l fro()t thle weather to which they were not accustomlied. There was a daily list of casualties 'able(d to tlie war deplartillent )by 3Majo(r-iGeneral Otis (ASUALTIES 1T TIlE AMERICAN nd(1 tile list of killed, (wounded, and those dylin, froll FORCES dise(,ase Orewr steladily. At IIoilo (conditions were equally strained, but llostilities had not PIogressed to sucll an extent. After weeks of waiting in tlie harbor 296 26 WAIR AND PE.4CE IN THE PIHILIJPPINES. (erneral Miller filally disellbarl'ked lis forces in the face of the insirglents' protest and occupied the city. On Februlary 12, (eneral Miller ordered a reconnoissance iln force to ascertaill t1ile enely's positi(on. Between Iloi olo ad o nd b(eyond no h( ostile forces were encountered, but Imidwlay between Iloilo and Jaro a large b(ody of the enellly was encountered1, occupying both sides of the r(oad. Tleyl met the( advanlce of the Amllerican troopIs with a severe and well directed fire. The Amlerica(ns deployed a1nd returned the fire with a numllber of volleys. Supported by tlhe Ilotchliss and (latliln- gI1uns the enemly was driv(en thro:ugh Jaro to the open country b(eyond. Tlle Americans lost four men slilghtly wounded, the insurlent loss was severe. While the Ameri(can arimy was moving agaiilst tlle insurgents in the Philippines, tle Filipinos were not without their suplporters in the United States. Agoncillo and his fellow-members of tile Filipino embassy left Washington for Montreal the night l)efore tlie first news of hostilities was received in the United States. It was evident tlhat he had been warned by cable of Aguinaldo's intentions. From) that time he made his headquarters in the Canadian city, keeping inl tollch with the Filipino Junta in Paris, London and ITonlgkongl The policy which had been adopted toward the Filipinos met with strenuous opposition from a large and influential class in the United States. The McEnery resolution passed the United States senate, declaring our ultimate purpose was not to annex the Filipinos. It becamle evident that the sentiment of the country was )by no DIVIDED O)PIIIONS Ill'lle unanimous for annexation. The military opIN TIHE UNITED STATES. erations which had resulted in the death of thousands of Filipinos who sincerely believed tlhey were fighting for the freedom of their country, aroused a great (leal of feeling. In the United States senate the fight was strenuous against the ratification of the treaty of peace, and when that carried, the effort beclame equally strongu on tlie part of tlhose who wished to adopt new policies in the settlement of affairs with the Filipinos. Some senators maintained that the Filipinos had a right to their freedom, and that all the bloodshed would have been averted if a more generous policy had been pursued toward them. A NATIVE OF THE CAROLINE ISLANDS NATIVE MAN AND WOMAN OF MINDANAO T is otec isd gl(up which has bee left to stin in ie ll In the tropics whereinfluence of civilizati as not ee too settlemtzt tt f terms t f Beadl strong, clothes oare still wort for titlitarian puirposes otly. N~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ GRINDING CORN FOR BREAD, LUZON Natries of tte Ph iippines depelIld )n tIllS Soitifi of implee1te s intet dl (of g istflnills t()t tleir flu r ltil mllezili NATIVE CHIEFS OF MINDANAO, PHILIPPINES This island; second in sine of all the Archipelago, is still largely under tle sway of native rulers, 1F ~i N|z~Tr _Y_~f~ Clfk. fr~~r,~raaks Prl s1al>~ i~ "I~injirriscrif nsz fa5Lt ~r~~p~tc,i ~l -B-gll Pllf 11 Sat~ ~~~~~~~~~oll aabe ruea WAR /NI) AND PEACE IN TIIE PIIIP1IP'INElS. )27 The natives attempted t bn o tnle ('it-y of Manila on the light of Februalry 22. In three different sections of thie city flaltes burst forthl.at tlhe samrte hour, and thle tir(s spreadl rallidly in all directions. 'I'le Amelricans fought the flamess cou rag>eously, but were MANIILA im1peded in their efforts by the insurg(ents who (it MANILA IN thel fire hose, shot at tl (1em from dar(k cornelrs, as they FAMES stood exposed in tll glar(,:and startle(l new conflagrations in the unprotected sections of' tlle towln. lBoat loads of artied Filipinos crept 1up the swamlpy creek(ls of tlhe Vita;s district, pre(paring for an attack on the re(ar (of thle Allwelican troops. T'hey lurked at the edges of the creeks 1anll. amid tlhe salt niarsihes,,galtlering thelir forces to(letlher froml thle city and t-Ihe bay, until they, werc ready for seriouls work insidel the American lines. At dawn the signal forl tlie attaclk was giveiin by tle isulrgent (cannon on the north opening fire oM, (' aloo(1an. T1ihe A\merican cannon resp(lonidedd prosilptly alnd soon silence(ld the insurgents' guns. In the neantiihe the Filipinos had issued from tlihe marshes in an effort to bre(ak the Amlerican line. Gen. Ilughes, hoNwever, attacke(l themn strongly from tlie city, drawing off such illlel as lie (ouldl slpar fronm I)plice work and fire fighting. Meanwhile other bandls of natives were being fought off at, Santa (Cruz and San Nicolas. Indeed, tley evqen a.ttemnipted to invade the oultskirts of the city itself in the vicinity of thle turbulent Tondo district, with its teeming native populatio(n. There was every indication of a desperate movement having been planned to include every conceivable form of annoyance to the Amlerican forces, inside the city and( out. It is evident that incendiarismn was designed to throw the invaders ivnto confusion, -and that if our soldieqrs had not been so promlpt to mleet the enilergenevy an attemipt would have 1)(een made to capture the city and lput thle foreign residents to thle sword. The spirited attackls all aloiig tlhe line were a part of thlis sclheme. 'T'lat it failed in its object was due{ to Americ;an g enralshilp and( Amnric(1n pluck. On March 7, tlhe insurgent forces, to the niumber of several thousand( wer(e driven from their position at San Jua del Monte with great loss. ( eneral I1al]cs brigade, which had been holding tlhe water works L. ll.t1A'.INI) l'l.ACI IN T111E IP'11.l/ I'I P INES. agaillst I le reIl)eateld att l a cks oft the 1' Fililpi l)s, sweplt fo( rwarl(I in the f)ormIi of a V, with the open ll endstl towalrdsl thl Pacl'sig river. T''lis forml of alvance inclhosed th1(e rebel poisition c('lplll)letely an(1d permlit:ted( al terrible oncIentrationl of ilre. In thle wvoods tithe Filipinos were scat'teved into small bands aml driven along tlhe river fronlt. The loss of the iIsurgent's was very heavy, the accurate fire of the gunbolat creatillng palnli in the fleeingl lines. Th o)nl casiualty to the Almerica'i f''orces w\s t1(' \\ie w(,nlllli f rl'rivat l Speach of the Nebrlaska regiment. At (dayhlig ltMarch 1, a (letera'l W\\llaton's divisional brigade w;as LdrawI'11 on 1 a ridlge behind San lPelro lMacati, Ca Illile sout-l of t lhe towi. Th'e ad(lvalncle was1 sounlldedl aIt i::30 al.., t11 (lvalry lea(ding the,column1 at at a satrot acrot0ss tle open to the right, evelntually reachingr a clullll co('mnandingli the rear of (Ouadal(ope. Supprll) te(d by the )Oregonl voll;unteers, the a(dlvance force loened a. heavyv fire o(n tlle Filipinos. ThI' response was feeble alnd desultory, allpalently 4coning firom snmlll groups of m1en1 in every covert. While tlhe right co)lumn wats swilnging toward the town of Pasig tlhey advatncled, louring voll(eys into the bush. A snall body of natives made a determined st.anl at (Aluadltoupe c(hurch, but was unable to withstand tlhe;assault. By this time the enemy was in full flight along a fine over a mile, long, and after a, short rest (:eneral Wheaton resunmed the attack o;n Pasig. Scott's battery, supported by two companies of the Twentietlt Regiment, advanced on (iuadalolpe by the road alonlg THIE TQOWN ^the river bank, the lremlainder of tlhe Twentieth ReIgiOF IASIG TAKEN. inlnt aind the Twenty-secon(d Regiment following witl the reserve of the Oregoon voluinteers. At- 11:30 a. m. the columin ciame in colta:ct with tithe en(emy, a1nd aI gunboat steamed to the firing line and cleared tthe jungle on both sitles, while the battery took lup a position on a bluff at the riglht. The first shot from the American field pieces, at 1,200 yards range, dismlounltel a gun of the ene.my at Pasig. After the town l had been shelled tlhe Twn1 -tieth IRegiment linled lup on the bluff and the Twenty-Second took up al p)osition oil tlle left of the pla(ce, w itll thle cavalry in tlle (' enlter, whereupon then elnemlsy retreatedlf to the t (-ow. llThe gunbotl) t then lmoved ilint a 1bend opposite, andli a 10ot- finl ( n tile Filipino J)ositionii wa^As maliillntained( 1I|'..A'..I; N) I' 1:..t( I7 7711 / I'I 1 / / '/ //V'/tS. 2i) 1 ()11g, ti lhe whVo()i(l A ell(,(i, liel IIi '. T1 t1 1 y >l' t I(, illsll',,'its, Wef( e kill, '(, sixt'l t e l (I'I kel 1)'iso)ll('1', illfl( ttl'e A ll 'ric' ll lo(St Si ix lI(ll w X() l N ll( l. All a11ttp'lll)t 1 w1 ls tXellill' to1 ) su('lie l'(,; l,~l8' ' la' )ge a,ss t1ll' riveit' to 11ii' isl81d( on whi(h U he townl of 'asig is blilt, Itl. it was a failure ad inl (ollseq(jlenee t ihe ins e, taking ad1va itage of t(e 41arikness of1 1 lhe!Il t, l (sI rlet1,e i ll ( 'c' t, I 1 it 1he to l. rli The te i v l r ll oul11( t1e t1, following' II I orli s tro n gly ii 'rencIl edl, n1 d 8 des eI 'r t1e light, i o ti Ig fo seveit hours, was made a1rainstf t hem by the t0roops of (iera Il Wheat (4o1's b)riga lde. I' le left v'ill ofi1 tIthe Americ'11I forcesl consist81 I'fl' of thle TwIltiet hI 111nd Twen1t v-second((I( i1nfantr'v, (1'0SS(e1 t hle lriver and.1( 11lde de1itl our( t1he re r o( f I asi '. Mea, t li te i \\ l ii i 'tl, t1 X( 1shi toe volunteel s i theri It ip 1 ll1 -tI red T 'ligriI' i 811( to0ok.3l)0 J p1'ison)'ers. ',The troops of tlle brigade whlich were (not ('i1n'-l'ed( ill crossing the liver tired volleyS 'ro)il t lhe shore,, slweepiit t f1g I l i, pino t'renches l11w( 11 ri r, I i' lii' I Ibllllet S. umeroie s oS1 creeks fl owingl t hrllougl ti lit 1181t and I11ddvI countryv greatlayth d1ielaye thlie,41 )\essi ofi t(Ie Ai lia(inl troopl, this8 a,(ffordl ll 0 oophole for t1 ie s I IIS ge I 1t1, xv it I lI e leslI, lt i II l lt l -v 4)f t 1 hem estael)l d. Three i1thousld 11 ilipinos tlook part ill this 1action. Foul 111111 dred( of tlhie1i were killed. 'liere was fierce stireelt lihlti ll illn Plsig before the last of the e(11(111Nn VW(s drive1l ou( t or c1 ('1t11rel. I'1tero14s 11had bee ll rec cup l)iedl by the1 i1l surgt ill s, an1( this town Nwals 81so c,8ptu 11re(i after severl t i ltinm. In thils ti84o101 one, Allevictal' w8as killed t1and five were wounded. 8evere fligltin' \g asW8 be-n onl li tlhe morllilng of March 25 ini tlhe vicillit o)f ( Calooc1 a (lL1, whe1I tihel Americai( t(1oops, t) flie nullmber of a1obmt 1,)000) menll, Iet th le e('eitV's fo1ce'S, \vlIo() ver'e 'stroglV (lntrencheII(dl ill dleslse jlllgles, prepared(1 for aI desperate resistaIince. Our 1) 1oops adivnced on Ilie double quick, velling 1; T f1', r(el v. (Oc)(asionllliv tihe dropp1led ill tIie r18ss for tFGTINUES. ill illstiant, liringll by vollevy, adop)ting Aime'ia ta1(is o,4l tlhel first time. The Filipinos. reserved t1heir tire niiit il we were vwi tlli 1,000 yards v of tlIenl. rT I Ie t-hey suI(ldelilv rel)lied t-(o 0)111 r volleys Xvi tl a >ilini fire ( 0oss tlhe open strlIet(ch we A\ver1'e crossill. The1 eiienimi's fire was thIe more g1a:lling for the rasI'll thlat their 1aim W.r. 'N.I/VJ/) "1I't(' 1,/' 7,i/IL lIII /II'tI IN11s. was btte t il hall i II jplexvioillS el'lngag(lements. They tired lowelr, their bullits drivin, a cud1!( of d,1 llst intll thle ~faces of ()11 advaIllcinlg Itrlre (4 P erto Rico is small and cheap, but lie loe, qu lte as much rs cou(Xrlld be expected of one of his size. SAN JUSTO STREET, SAN JUAN DE PUERTO RICO T} ire Atle f city arl ltectr, S thile eapital of this island is very well shown in tte accolpalyinlt picture. The streets itte arrow i Motl~t.....; R i nort CIIAPl'TEr XXIII. STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. Conditions when Peace Interrupted War in Puerto Rico-Brooke and Macias Lxchange Messages-Scenes on the Road from the Playa to Ponce-The Discovery of a Desperado-A Lesson in American Administration-General Brooke Begins His Journey across the Island-Passing the Spanish Outposts and Rifle PitsAmericans Enter Cayey-A Stop at the City of Caguas-Brooke Enjoys the Hospitality of Macias-What the Americans Learned of the Spanish DefensesDifficulties of an Advance through the Mountains of Puerto Rico-Arrival of Admiral Schley and General Gordon at San Juan-Exchange of Official Courtesies between Spanish and Americans-Transfer of Authority from Spain to the United States. W\'\ IIIEN oin l li( 12111 of August S(ecretanry of State Day and Monsieur C( 1(ambon, tIlie Flrench ambassadlor, adic g for Spain, (affisxed tleir signatulres to a pr{otoco'l whlich formlled thle basis of peacte nego-tiations, it- left 'Puerto 1ic) )ccupi(d by the Sanishl forces throughllout the llorthl lhalf of tlhe island, whlilel lthe Amlerictan~ troops faced. lie by every a venue of ad vance from the south coaist. In t heir camlips}, (lie A meric ans set tledl downi to a wtait (ldevelopllents. No pro)gress could be 1adl.e, under i le terlnls of ( the protocol, until p)ace ( couImlissiollners were a1pointed( to negotialte (ldetalils. President AMcKinle~y;a lppoin ted no t only colmillissioners to negotliate a final tre:aty of 1)(peace in l'aris, Ibut otlers to Tdeal witlh the local coInditions in Puerto Hic.) and (Cubba. For Puerto llico, Major-(GeWneral John.t. Brooke, Adniral Wintieldl Scott Sc(liley andl Bri gadier-(leneral AW. AW. Gordon werel allpointtedl forl thlis service, to lmeet suchl officers as Spain should apploinit. 1 tllt itile ((lGeneral Broo!;ke was in colillnd of the division, with heladlq-l rters at (4luIuyanmI, lwhile tAdmliral S clevy al11d (General G)rdon were in the United States. It twas understood tlhatl the two latter 11lilllbcrs of the c(0111ission( would Lreaich Slan Juan, the 341 342 STO5NIES' OF PIEAICE iND IARK. capital of the islallll, wherel they were to mlleet tll( Spallisl conllllissioners, by a vessel which would salil directly tlhere flrom the United States. (Gene11(atl Brooke was in (ldoubt at first whether lew would sail aroundl the island from Arroyo to San Julan or cr(oss itl(, isla;ld 1)b the great;l liilitarv road. To do the latter it wlould be necessary GfENERAL BROOKE to obtail permission froml tlle Spanishl, as by the terlms PLANNINGI IIS NJOUNEY. of the protocol no advaince (coul(1 ble tmadle froml tlhe positions held at the time of its signature. General Brooke ca(ime to Poncei to disculss, tlhe a11ttelr itlh (('eneral Miles. I I tlhen telegraphled Capltain-(lenert'l Ma'1 ias for p(er111issio I to coime across the island and received an affirimative reply. leturnning to (Guayamia, lie settled dlown in his own headquarters, del1aying hlis start northward on the impollrtanto jolurlney until sucl a time tlllt he wo(uld arrive at;8Ia Juan silllltaneoIslv witlh thlie o111lte' mem'lberts of the comm11ission. War was ended, but tlhe operations of Iptcle wtere quite as iiiteresting to me and I did not lack for occlll;ation duriigi this lerilo of waiting. I happened to be in Ponce on the day of the receipt of peace news and remained there for som tie tihere.after, looking into industrial, agricultural and commercial con(litions, the chlaracter of the p]eople and their possibilities, andll( such other thlings as would interest Americans. Some off tlhe clhlaterIs which follow contain portions of tlle result of tlhe imqlliry thatl I dlirectted from Pouce a lld AN UNPLEASANT throughloutt t(he surromll inl, country. Let this chapMEMORY OF IPONCE. tet be a mixture of history and rellilliscence. Among lly mlemtranda of tlhose days I indl one relating ai iucident which caine l),efore i:y obserivation during that delay at Ionce, and shall quote it here as a contribution to the reminiscences of tlie camilaign in Puerto Itico. Object lessons to the peoplle of this island are expected to be of great value in teaching llenm the cllaracter of their new fellow-countrymen, "los Alinericanos." (xeneral Miles hopes that there will be a marlcl.across to the north coast on the several lines of advance planned forl the military movement in the beginning, in order that the Puerto Iicans may see the American soldiers and their equipment, the American horse, and, not least important, the American army mlule. It is be STORIES 01 PEA1CE A.iND 111' AR. 343 lieved that the result: of thlis m11arch, withl its aconllpal.yiig featilres, alid the fact that the arnmy is )paying for tlie food it gets, instead of confiscating it, will d o nuch to colnvince the people that they 1may exp)ect fair tlreatment from the Almerica lns, but that tle latter are apiilly able to maintain pelace, anal public safety if there be any disturbing elemelllnts still doubtful of tlhat fact. T'e rtesullt of this will be of value it encourage the llpeaceable and idulllstlrious at the same time dlis(coulrag'ing the other kind. 'luertoriquelaills are stilll suspicious, ad t.lhey are but children in their reasoning. It is worth while, for our own sake, to treat. them carefully. About noon yesterday I was driving from tlie Playa to Ponce, over tlhat splen(lid road which tle army of invasion found waiting for it. All tlhe way it was clrowded with oxcarts a1nd armiy wagons h;auling supplies froll the port to thle city for the (ien att tle front. O() either side at iltervtals wNere (cap1ps of our men, wlhile the street was lined all the way wilth t]le little houses of lPuertorilqu,itans, wholse cane fields or kitcheltn gardens extended back frotl tlhe shade trees surroIidling, them. Nearing towl, one 1reIa( es tle ice flactor, at tloe left of the road and but a few yards back of the fence and wago(n-gate.l Some excitement appeared there and a small,cro)wd was gatllering about the gateway. As my c(arriapge caie( o)pposite the gate into tlhe fact(ory yar, mioving slowly to avoidl the ta!llo (,f 1en11l, 1mul te(ams ( ian(l oxcS:rts, a queer sight appeared. Out of the gateway camlle 1an oxcart of tlhe usual plrilitive sort borne on but two wheels, heavy and lumbering, tlhe oxen yoked by their horns, as is usual in Spanish islands, tlie driver walking ahead and guiding the animals by means of tlle prod, with which lhe jabbed them in tlie shoulders at intervals. In the middle of the he]avy cart was t black nman. hlis arms were tied behind his lback, drawn together with rope so tightly that his elbo)ws ne~arlv lmet. Ilis le(gs wlere tied, together, well lashed for miost of their leng11t. lie was laid flat on his face, with his head toward the tail of tlie cart and his feet toward the oxen. There was notling between hilm and the boards of the cart. Around the edge of the vehicle were the usual stakes which prevent a load from falling, and to these the man waq: lashed by ropes from hlis armls and from his legs, so that lie could n'(t 3, 44 STOR'.IlS (): 1 '1iiCi.1O.liN) IA 11AR. r'o1 or slide about ill the cart. lie was holdiing heisha up as best he could il the elffort to keel) his nose 1and( cliln froni AMEIICAN llha;merig llt aist t-he rIough boards of the cart when BIRUTALITtY a n TO tA PR1'}SOM. it rolled over tllhe drainaige ditchl at the sidle of the TO A PRi-SONElR. ~n street or ovler ie little rults andl lul1111) whiclh tllla eventl this 1 1road. Aftelrwalrd I learnied, whlt was not apl)arcllt ati tlle Iiol(ient, but which explainedl wlhy lie w;as silent, that the man was also gaggeod'(. AVt citiher side of thle cart as it turied toward thle Pl aya iiarcIhed two A\(ericain soldiers with rifles and behind it ca(me anoth(er, also fully arilled. 1My errand inl the otle( r direct ioi n 1 I it ilpossible tIhat at tlh omt111enit I sould 11follow tihe cavalcade or,cout ltiue an11 i nquiry as to ti crimeI of Awich l the 1}n (gro t liis triced 11p ad 1 been guilty. Eviden l t l it wasN a m 1:atter of sull-icient. weigiht thalt it wo111ld not vallis'h out, of knowled(l1,(' so I left it till tiftelilrnool. Tis will explal iN why but olle si(l of the sltory is told lherel. A.s ot ler carriages or 1hors('(emen passed Inc 1 asked various soldiers, officers andl civilians whalt was the offlense of whlich tlihe black man lhad been guilty and wlo) he was. TllerL wer* v arious answ(ers. Onme told mito tlhat he hi Iad beeni cauglht. in thle tact of 1lleft. Anotlhler s'aid tllat hle Ilad insulted ani o(ficerl,. A third said thllat ilie prisoller wa;. 'gullerrilla who thad slhot Amiericllan s0oldiers after peace was declared. 'The la]st explanation was tlhat he had been prodding Ihis oxen (c11ru1lly, clbein tl(h dlriver of a (,art, and had refusled to stop whlien warnled. Tihre explaniations were( discussed bly soi}ie of us wlhio lhald seen the affair withl varying opiniolns. Frolm what we knew of tl(h island sitlatiion the oullrrilla sl1'ge'(stion was discredited. If he Iihald prodded his oxen as; vicioiusly:as in s(ome Isltances was obse(rve(( the l)llnishmemnt should liave been moro lo)gi'cal and should have con(sisted of a sim1lar case of proddingll the 111man himself. Theft s(eem'ed lhardly,a sufficient, explanation. 'Thlere were1 not wanting those ir(reverent ones w11) argue(d that if tl(he offense was insullting an officer the circumistances should be very carefully exanined on ac(count of thle grave difficulty that had( been (xpIerience(d by more than one to refrain from committing that offenlse tl(emnselaves. It was finally agreed that if the prisoner had been (ca'ulit in the act of rolbbing or mutilating thIe deadl, and had fought STORII.S (O) I'l iCl 1.V1) IV 1'.R. '34r vici Ioull y IN']I'i a1'1 '(%reste'd1, t here llillt, I) /L..iAn ) itVlAR. tli 11lel at the l(g o,118 "Wll(l be ab)soliltely concealed alld exempt. from even a tlhrea1 t of ldaiiger iln lIia illslinll ces. The systemil of rifle-lpits:land earthwllolrks of all sorts gnardlingr tie iilitlary ro(ad tlhrough']1 tllis ralinge o( f lllmountains was so per)(. fet as to comllel the adllliralt.iol of tIh Americ'all soldiers a1lnd DEFENSES OF officers who cail1gi lt t;a baire glimlpse of it. It was EFENSES OF TIlE ROAI) ACROSS frankl, y a(lndit tld to 1me by oficers )f (General Blrooke's THE ISLAN). staff who tli(l stiitil.altionl tlhlat tlhe (lifficulties of ani advance ( acro)ss lie island by this road would have b)ee( te(rrlific. '1T c(' ai'npaign as far asl it was carried was simple an(d edasy. We lhve realson to be t llankfi l that peace 1'( illtervened before it became)( eclll e 1((ss;ry to force a passage iiito Aibonito and ('ayey. If the Americ(an advtnce had successfhlly passed the fortifications in tie inoullains, there wou(ld hlave been no otlher obstacles of great c(onsequence until the city of San JuTan itself was approached. rThen, ho(wever, unless an Americ(an fleet lhadl reduced the city by bombardment and made its fortifications untenable, tlhe Americans woul(l have met a resistance exceed ingly dlifficult to ov-rclome. In anlother clapter I shalll ldescribe- tle (lefenses {of this per(fect exallmple of an ancient wall(dl city in mlore detalil. H(ere it is to be sa;i( onl y that the city is on ant isllndl willt but one app)ro(alch avalilable tfor forces ( ladvancinglr by 1lml. Th]1e rifle-pits and fortlresses uardiing the bridges are of the most perfect cllaracter and Awould formi an obstac.le, Awheln well mllanned, almost insurmountablle for inlfantry anrid cavallry. It is a question even if sufficient artillery could lave been brought. across the island to make an adequate assault on tle city's defenses to tle east. Iere again, then, 1thre must have been great loss of life before tle city couldl be taken. Two or three (lays after Generafl rookel reached 1i(o Pied(ras, the lralnsport Seneca, with Adii(iral Schilev and (en1eral G(lord{on and I ltei' statffs, arriTve(l in t le hafrbor of San Julan. 'e United States cruiser New Orleans by this timel was lying ini thle harbor, near the Spanish glunboat Isabel Segunlda. alutes SPANISH AI) ~ AMERICANS EXwere exc(halnged between these vessels and Morro (CIANGE SALUTES. castle. Thle New Orleans fired an admiral's salute of l lIirt een guns, to which thle Isabel Seg(unda responded(. Then the New (rleans set tlie Slpanish flag at the pea an1;: saluted it witll thlirteen STORIES 01 PE,4ACE A4TD 1WAIR. gluns, wlhich salllt: WS' e'8l repliied. to (y Ir ler (f (aptai-ulleneral M acials ifrom11 Morro castle. Du11ring tle aft e ooi Adhiralz Scldey alld (Genleral Gordo(n caitme 1lashorelll'(' l io)k. tlhir (luarters at llo(tel Ingglaterra, to remain (luriing tI sessions o)f the militar1y (commission. Abmout three o'cloick in tlle afternoon ((eneral Brooke arrived at the Inglatterral from llis lhea(dqIiart ers iln Rlio Piedras a1nd 1t(l tlhree coimissioners were ogeth-ler for tlhe first time. In 1my San Juan llmemoranda for September 7 I findo tlhel foill!owi,'ng accounTt Awhic I wr(l ot thnll of an incident whlich may be of ilt'serest: "Splanisli and Americaln officiails ill tllis island have excli (xhan(e preliminatry formailities and assur'ances of llheir i1uiulalll distingllisl(, d consileration and( reglard. All that is left to (1() is t(:) settle the arranglenmints for evacuaition by tlie for(mer for the p1lace( to become tle pe roperty of tlhe lTnitedl States in fact-. T'lie new tlenant is not dis)psed to) be p}ressinlg in askinge the ol((1 oe to m)ove ou()t t-oo hurriedly, but tlie I)r'cet'ss w-ill not be long dela (ed. "For the last few d(ays I lave been about the pal~ace of the captaingeneral a good de(al, oni variouls l)elrsoial and of(icial errands, and it has been impossible no(t to feel the patlhos of the situation as. it affects many p)erson(s -when (oe stlops to c'nsider the personal equation in it. This phase o(f tlie lmatter was broughlt most forcibly to inild yester(lay, when the first formal call was 1made, the victors seeking, tlie vanquishl(ed in thle lhalls tlhat were so soo)n to be transferredl. Not imaly were favored(' with a sight of this particular event in lthe progress of tlIe history of reconstruction, and those who wer( present will not forget it. "About half-past three I went to tlie p)a-lace to have a cable nessage passed by the censor, a privilege which the Spanish officials still reserve. The official interplreter first reads the mecsDEAsINCGS NWITIH sage s when tlhis forir is to be gone through, and, havTIlE SPANISH CENSOR. i:l flamiliarized himlself with what is desired to 1be senlt, t-akes it to tlle se(cretary of the local island governll lnent, vii tlually a (a cabinet minister-l in l)ocal affairs, and reads it to) hint in Spanislh, tranislatt-ing as lie go)es. Once approve(d, tlie menssag( is stamped () tt lie bt(ack of (1eac slhieet( over whlichl it extend:ls, tle last (on(' is signed b1y tlhe sec'retry, atnd( 11 le' folll'ality is ()vr. Tl(e s((cretary iS not exact(ing nIow, atldI li(t (le is flor)i(ll(en to be( s(ent, lllt the lao)()r of ST'ORIIE:S O' I'EiACCE AND VAtR. the journey to the p.alrac:e alld tle deldltys of waiting there are soiletimes annoying. "Yester(lIay the inlt erplretler told me( tlhat tl(he Britishl consul was \vith tle secre t ar andl it; wouldl be l(,(ecessaI'v to wa( it. Mealilwhile we tadlked of thlosel tlillgs ill thlle Unitted States;.lad thll{se books ill E11llish wvhich thie interpret(er kivew from hIis travel ai st iludly, and I we were ihal;ving verty plei'asallt little visit, of o1i' 11 \\vown he th1e ita 'Itle off cariage, VlI(eel5 s 11(sheaIrd on()II the pavemlent. oultside. It ^was thle arrival of tlhe IAmeric(i 11 col)'lllliissioler('. "()ut of tlle (offi('e bolted the secretary(' down the ll, and u11 t he styailrs, ) (rea1ch llt( g-ralllld saollln all(xbov(e b)efore the A\eii'icatlIl slhould lt(er. The iliterprete r followe (dI ill ha.ste. Tr e clerks ad ll tlhe 1ltderlS(lcret;-llies liledtl 1up in tile e'lntra1llcel haill to( scee tlile dlistillnllislhed visitors, wlio w(ere hIaltiing alt tilie ent 1lran(ce lltil itthey 11should all be out of t1heir (,.arriteI'(ges and aI'raged ill proper oder of precedence. The lndl(ler-se(cretlary turiited to miel in haste. "')o you(t ktnow which is Alldmiral Schley?' he asked hlurrielly, anxious, like all tlhe others here, to) see tlie 1all8 wl(o (letroye(l (/ervera's fltet. I pointed out thle admxiral, tanl tlhen the other n]embers of the c(m011111ission land the distinolulishled officer(s wlio( accomlppanliedl tlhenll. As thet last of thle score of A 1er+l- WARM INTEREST icans in uniform p)assed do-wn tie 111l and turned AMIRAL SCHLEY ulp the stairs, the sentries closing, in le'llinld tlhem to prevent the entralnce of 1an' onle else to, 11he p)alace, lie turned to me again with a signal to advanlle, ltnd we wa;llh{l Iup the stairs behind tlhem. t llenl. "The suite of rooms in which tlhe (captain-g(ene(ral received the eminient callers consisted of three lofty chambers, (oninecting by wide archled doorways and extending all the way (across tlie west face of that wingl of tle palace. The first was an ante-room, into which we were ushe(redl, and froml it tle (colllll issioliers, witl tleir staff officerts and int(erpreters, passed into tlle mildle one, where Cap(tain-(General lacias awaited them with his own staff. There was a significant circumstance visible at once. The moment tle Spanish officers saw tlhe tlrong of Americans crowding the ante-room, I)reparaltory to enterin, tlhe next lapa1rtllment, they moved on into the next room, tle third and last of the 354 S'TORlILS Oh; I'EIiJC'1,AND IV'AR. suite, 1nor did they lagain enter the chamber where the call was actually "Captain-General Macias waited atlonc with his interpreter in t ll middle room of the thr'ee for the.Americtants to advance. They welet ushered t oward him1, t he introductions were IlImade formally, but rapidly, andl the crowd forlmed inlto gr lulps for conversationll. O() tlhe, wvest wxall of the chamber, and betweenl two wilndowsN, hlig;a gr(eat port trait of1 the queen regenlt of Spain. 1Under thlis stood a softa witl room(l enoughl1 for three to be seated on it, and this wvas the c('e'enter of atlract(ion. Major-l( eneral Brooke sat in the centler, with ( 1(atain-( lenral Macias at his left and his own ilterlpreter ait the righlt. Il EMINENT MEN EMINENT MEN a chllair at tlhe (it(l of the sofa,:lnd so 1n(xt to~ thle EXCIIANGE COURTESIES. Spanllislh c(Olll1 l'de, was (IS ea-Ad l.tira'l Shlelvy, lrigadier-(eneral ichael Slerida, enel I 1-BIrokl;( s chief of sta ' l', le xt: be!)(odtl. ll riga(li( 'l-('iel;Il (I l rdIIIon was seatedl at thie riight (it (G el[ral B1,1 k,,c' i IIt el pret er, a41, wit1 1I is c(rT scelit zas a center of itere st, te other Alllericas were seatted faciln them. "During the fifteen minut(es throll)lg whli(cl thei call ext (enlded, tli' lantIe-l'roonl was oc(cul)ied b3y half a (ldozen S1paiiislh oftfic(ers, wlho slrro)lliued me anid sought iformlatlion c(ncler''illg tlhe identity of t he variouis Am ericans. Scliley wats thle one1 of great est- ilnterest to them, allid he was s tlliel I endy1II (11 eno( ugh tha.t t Ihey wIill all know hiim iI tle next tiiiie. T'hetle r'('e litedl l dlt ( a)111 (1fter ll (0l\c(1 verstl tioll wvi thil'lill, IIvhia they thoughllIlt of t(he relative work of Americanl ships ill thle (ldestr-li(t 11il of the fleet of (Cervera, i(ndl t]he pllace wihere tlhe cred(it 1),eloIged. lThey were exceTedingly ilt('erestled, too, t-o know tlhat (1:enelral Sheridan is tlhe brot(her of tlie Pl'hil Sheridan woll se ame ihey knew so well. TIhey were generous''1)11s ill tl(ir com)lplimenl( ts (')ll('cel'lil tIe file-look-ilg menl ill the staff and w(ere ill evervy way civil land friendly. One( of thle officers sail to me tlhat lie felt s01\orry for thlose wllo 111ad withli';awn into thlc Ihird room10, (because they 11lad no olle( in reachll w Clo could 11nalle to tl the different Americains in tlhe party. "It seems fworth whlile to say ]lere tlhat thile only other American present at tlie ceremony except tliose of oficers tf h1e army and navy in the coimmission or on tile staff of tlie commllissiollers was Mr. T. l)'t STORIES OF 1'l:,.ICEi.I1ND WAR. 355 Walker, hle special artist for IIarperl's Weeklly, who was able to obtain an excellent sketch of the scene. No otler newspaper correspondents were in the palace." A day later Captain-(G'teneral M11acias returned the call of the American comlllissioners andll then ( ll work 01 of drawinlg 11) tile plans for t(he Spanish evacuation of the island be(gan. At the en( CA! - IAI-(,ENERAJL of one week ithere was percep(ible p)rgrss and every- I RA MACIlAS thing was runnlin, as smIoo)thlly as could be expe)ted. IES CALL M. 31AKES A CALL. At last the labors were compl)leted and fiially the day was fixed for tlle hoistiIng of thle Ameri(can fla1g ove San Juan and the complete and p1)er('anel t o()('Cl)pali() of 1lie island b)y the mlilitary forces of the United States. American I me(n-of-\wr llad Ailllri(;all tr;llsi(orts by this time hal entered the harbor of the (calital to t(1ake part in tlie quiet and lignifiet ceremony. ()On Octlober 18, at eleven o'clock, tlie 1llth infantiry, with two Ibattlrie(s of t( e, 5tli arItillery, l;ill(,ed. r11e latt(cr pri)c((l(eed to Morro castle, which was to be occ(uplied as a fortress, while tlhe infantry lined up on the docks. It was a holilday for San Juan and there were many people on tle streets. Rear Admiral Schley and General Gordon, accompanied by their staffs, proceelded to tlhe governor's palace in carriages. The 11th infantry regiment and band, with troop) I of the 6(ih United States cavalry, the(n marched thlroughl tile streets, and formed in the square ol)i)site tl(e palace. At 11:40 A. M. (General BrookLe, Adnmiral Schley and ( (eneral ( Go1don came o)lut of the l palace with many o(ffic'rs and form(ed on tlie, right silde ()f thel slquare. The street )behindl the soldiers was thronged with townspeoplel, whlo sto~l waiting in dead silence. At last thel cit-y clo(ck struck the 1hour of 12, a(l I(l t ('e crows, almnost breathless, and with eyes fixed l)upon the fl1ag p(le, w atchedl for developments. At the sound of the first gun fromn Morr(o, Major Dean and Lieutenant Castle, of Ge(nral AMEIvIC.AN FLAG DfRAISEI) IN Brooke's staff, hoisted the stars and stripes, while the PUERTO RICO band played the "Star-Spangled Banner." All heads were bared, and the crowds cheered. Fort Morro, Fort San Cristobal 356 STOAVIEiS O(I7 ltJJC7h JA.I-IJ) I 'I\A'. filed twenty-one gmns each. bIlll til ' (tll{vtl S;lrttg s I'tl'\{~ tt'li{ ls (I11' t' l{' l i illi~ ill,1lf' l{ll'l)3 rl Senor Mni>oz Ki ver1a, who was president of tlle recent alit onomiistl coinilti o(f s(ecretarieis, iand othller otfficials of (lie late isular g(,overmie.t WIere npesenit at ttthe proceed li Is. ((ongIIat118 I.ulti(11s a11(1 hadIsl iIaki I 1i IIt (12 I he A IericaI I ofli(cers fo1 -(low e (. E sigi I 1 1 ( lois t (ed I s t ars aI n I s I, i pes ( on I te Iendencia, buIt all otI(heIr f tla's on t lie various( public IOilidings vwere hoist e1 b1y mIiliiarlx oflicers. Siimultaileoiislf withi thlle raisino of thlie (l2f over tlhe captain —en ra's ]palace nan111 othiers were( hoisted il difTerent parts of thle cit v. lX'eneral( ( u v V. IeI rII thIe Iiilitarv "overnor of lPIuIerto Uico, tlook clhiarLe of thlie aldmillistration of iland atffairs witlolimit (delay, enilistill' li'e people of promiliience locally iln the; duties (of goverilenm t as fully 1as possible. Welcoming [ uth Am1 iuericanI 1 inifllence as heartily as they (didl, Ite 1eopie) looked forward l to iie to ime whllell they P'rERTORIII SUENAS s1,ild be dI(;ll( dletillitely 14to l relti{ons of citiz(11 -11A ~E IIAYE8F, ASPIRITIONS. shlip. A c(n1ventiolnl wasX'8 eld(1( illn San Juan at the c('all of ( eI e 1 ra1 I Ileav It hI (-Iich d(elegat I es were lpresent fmi n all te ta the 1 1tant 1 wi 1s of tle( i sl 1 d. TI II ( declared( (t ethusiaIsticall fo fortcf i, rad e w\itli teli( 1 it i edI1I Stat8e s, {OlciiilulsorV ed(liucati1ol 1and11 territol ial lga lizal )on, wi t 1i 1 ( Ily V statehood ) I t li illnhait-ants {on tlohe sat8ime 1,bsis as 1ti]1 citizens of ti1e otiler states of the Union. Exscep t for a s.light f(eelintg of irrlit t.t ion ai.mionl tlhe peop(sle of Puerto ic at w t a t Ilat t hey (olsii 1fI ed I le unn1 liecessarily proli ged 1,t vingeincl of tlle mililitarx rule, tltiis was tie (o.d1itio( of alfltairs in Puerto ilici froml tie ti ime p-eaceee amle uiuil, m eitr (1(1illile fo4il1l of gsovernment was 1111(der (discussioll bv co(lgress 14) be enacted for lthe( island. A COLORED BELLE OF PUERTO RICO 11ii!x tur of0 Africa n with spia nishi bliood is not fiolld ilt i ail lo f }e peoppieo f t 1is i sl anid Tiie o: e,,if wh1i te people hold viei {,mse:ives 'as strictliiyi iiitheir io wn iiso iev si;i ii ii,other coun it ry, c'~ ~s been no business and no town developled on its slhores. Its ceonvenience and depth would su,,gest that soe.ay an ilmportant bl)siness center would be established there. The lport of (luayami a at lpresent is AIrroyo, whi'ich is little more than an open roadstead wheet e tlhe surf always washes. The only ports of any cnsequencee onI tihe east coast are Fajardlo, wllre two little islands (lose th(e nmoutl of the bay anld offer complel(te slelter to vessels, and humacao. Tle climaite of tPu;erto Rico is, perllaps, the lillest of all tlhe islanllds of th lie WIest Indies. The temperl, atulre, as woum(ld be expected in t he tropics, is hiiigl both sIIumm1er and winter, in comil;arison, with tihat of Ilmore nortlhern lands. Nevertheless, IEL LIMATE OF it is not so severe as to be t ryilg pon any except those pUETO ~,", I'URTO R I(O. whl, suffer especially from hot weather. The north c(;:st has an advantage over the south coast in tlis, as in the matter (, rains and rivers. All summer it is swept by the northeast breezes fIrom the north Atlantic ocean, thus moderating its heat materially. '!'Te south coast, on the etlier hand, gets its breezes from the Caribbean sa a(nd farther into tle tropics. For myself I can afirnm that the sum 'tJi''( A'RIC(, ITS 1 C T7'I5S V ITS) |,I S O.l ( r)1I. 1ll'e' s( stls(oli ill ln l(' l i() i ll'() (qi ail m le 1 1 ('oe co lll('o t Ilit h t lie (c()'r(spld()Il'lio slln' 5etIoll il (lhicago l(ias d(oie Ia1, allylll t1illesS. Ill Sanl Juan tlle telperattlllre rairely rises above eigh'ty-six degre'es ill tIll shade, nor domes it sillk belovw Ift 'v-nine de(re(es. The higlesl l))ii(t ev reachedi li' last ist es i is ltie-two decreelst. The hot seIason sets ill am)u11t Jully 1 tland lasts till lie lattc'r p.art of Septemiiber. 'The rainy s(eason co( ienlices one m o('S 11i(tli later ]t and lasts two 11mllonths l1,,iger. Ev'en ealr'li(ier th.lill thllt, l1(w\ ('ver(, r'11ill s egi'i sIlltcie'itly to water the crops and stim ulate atut ure to rieiiarale p hroductiveness. I)Durillg te hot l sei1sii( ti(e imoiiiirng Iuoiiios aie tlie ll1,st tr yil tig palt of I lie day. Iv teln o'clock, however(, the se('a bre(ze bring's re(lief a111d life becomes tlhorouighly conlfortale again. Even iii tlie rainy season the sIhowes IIare t 1 t ls (.111 1 as is ay llll )(1people( ilmagille. Thiee are1 frelquenlt brief rain storinls of con sidera ible violence, CHIARAEt RTISTIS a111i thlenI hell sk clears again wit1 h surprising rapidOF THE RAINlY SASON.t ily..s thei, island is (n uiass of lill s and the{, natlural drazil l(,ge is (pertect, tle tlorre(lts of a inl (lisalppear i;1lo hI lt waster courses as as slddl(ly as liey l cal e a Ill evelrything is (1d.,,aga ti]ln well as greener land freslher for thle shower )l'atl. A wetti il,' from such a sihower in sucli a (cliiate bring's no chill and if a change o)f clothing be ilmpossible the lilht garments dry quickly on the body, and there is no hlarmit done. PIeople pay vepry littl(le atiention aliogetl(er 1o the ralins ili Puerto lUic(o. I have been sl)pe-tlaking o)f tihe clilate( inll the cities and along tllhe coast, where Alleiri(can:s ale l(most lik(ely to be. It is ilmpossille, lhowever, to 'generl'lize on the subject (f climllte, evenl in an island no lo argel llhanl Puerto lHico(. In the l(ouitails the illnhlabit.aits enljoy the coollness (f spring the (eal around, tlanks to their altitnde, even when tlhe valleys are the hoftest. This difference of elevation mlkes it possible to select a residence in allost any temperature (ldesired all(] tIhe agricullurlal industries of tlhe islanld aire so varied that there is something suitable for ev(ery egl(iborhool, d. Puerto IK llico( is one of Itie lmost hliealthful islands in tle world. Withl ordinary cau(tioln and diet, parti(cularly as to the eating of tropical fruits, and if care is taken nolt to sleep in a draught, no fears need be enterlail(ued of fevers a1l(d oIlier diseases p)(culi8ar to the tropics. Al Pi'IU'RT'O R1IC, 1ITS'( CITIES AND ITS i'IOI'LE. though 1l( e wolluld slllp)lose that Ill tle llarge islands inl thle tlo)pics eljoy the samie (liualte, yet Jamaica, Sanlto I)oiingo and Cuba exp)erience a muich higher mortality than that of 'Perto Rico, and that is the best test. 'Thlel slmall islands of the West Imldies, solrle of them destitute of wood and hlighnl mounittains, which l11ave a p owerful effect in attract.ing clouds, suffer lluch ftrom d (rlol. BLESSINGS The land-breeze is an advantage which the large LD) BREEZE islands delrive fromi the inequality of tleir surfa(ce, for as soon as the sea-breeze dies away, the hot air of tllhe valleys, beiiig rarified, as(ends toward tle top of tle moiuntainls and is there coindensed by the coldl, mn;alking it heavy aain. It then descelnds back to the valleys on botl sides of the ridge. lence a night wind, blowing on all sides, from tlih land towarld tlhe shore, is felt in all the lolunttainlous countries within the toirrid zone. Violent wind storms and hurric{anes have been unknown in Puerto Rico for many years. The last one of any consequence was that of 1825r, whlichl (lestro yed several townls alld caused 1u1111ch d111amage to agriculture. The hurric(anes of tile West Ildiles, which are so dreladed by mariners and by the people on shore alike, seem to have left 'Puerto Rico almlost exempt. Earthquakes are solnewhat frelquient, but not violent or of grleat (onselquence. Raiin stormms inl tle midst of the rainy season are sometinies veryet viollent, dalallgino bridres and growing crops along the streams into wlich they drain. This is almnost the only exception to nature's kindness to the( inhlabitalts of Puerto lico. The pleasantest time of year for an \Allleric:an's visit to the island is after the rainy season ends in the late fall. At that time the weather begins to be (lear and fine and every condition is favorable to the most colmfortable travel in tlhe island. Puerto Rico is by no means rich in minerals. (alena is mined at La Rosita, in the province of Guayamna; g(old is washed in various streamls, lignite is found, and there are various salt ponds which are worked commlllercially. Colper aI11tl 1 I)EVEL)OPEI) MINERAL iron are reported to exist. Thlere are various miinrall WEALTH springs of llealing virtue, particularlyl tlhe famous Banios de Coamo. The sulphur baths of (ulintana, near Ponce, and the springs of Juana Diaz are notable locally among the islanders. PI'l R TO) RIC() I'S C I T/iS AND) 175 I1S /1()1):. There 1are seve.ra1l 1aIves of co'lsid(erable size. The l ollstl Ilotablle o1ne is tlhalt of Agullas ]lnas, Awlilch slhovs coiclusively tl.e volcanl'llic (rigin of t hlletisland. t is tortos, w itl dee' recesses, )11t thle iyriads of bats inhabiting it ren(ler a visit far from plel(asant. 'llThe natimes of1 (other caves a1re, v the I he l ead' in UtIdo; Consejo cave, i Arecibo, and tl]e cave of ( iales. Adljacentt to P'lerlto lico )on tlhe lest, west atii south l ar1 several little islands which belong to tle colony geographically and the ownersllip of ntwhich we- inhlerit from the Slpa-ish. The 1arest of tliese is Isl:i de1 Vile(nes or (Crab' islldl, w\\ichl lies dir'ecttly (east o1f lPulerto l ic(, thlirl teen niles fromi tl(ie port of Ilnumacao. ThIis island its itv wenty-one wlile(s long atnd six ilmiles wi(de, with a ch (ain of ioultai lils (liviiing it thlro(>ugh its entl-ire length. T(he higlohest of these iountai:ns reaches an (ele(vati;on of 1,000 feet, 5Mount Pirata alt tihe west tend, bu;t this is a sutficientl elevation to protect the valleys from the tropical] storms tilat so)11etiles re1(acl the island after they lhave sweplt throughl thle (aribbee(s. lTheI soil is very fertil(e. All tle fr";its anl vegetal)l(s Vwhich:ma 1)' g'rown in the West Indies will flourish llere, and even now, under extremnely adverse circuinstlances, 1su1 gar is cultivated and cattle raised with profit. Tlhe nmountlains are covered with forests of timber. 'Tle produllts of tlhe island would find markets at Ponce and St. lThomas if not in tlhe United States. About 6,000 persons, white a(nd black, coll)pos5e tflie population of Vieques. The capital, Isabella Segunda, is in tlhe 1mid(dle of tlie nortlt coast, its harbor, Port Mulal, being tlie extreme northern lpoint of tlhe island. Like all hlarbors on this side it is unsafe for anchorage during northerly gales, but Port de Arenas is only a short distance to thle west around tlhe end of tle isl1and, lwhile on the sou-th are tlie inlets of Ferro, Tosqulito and 1l(al. Some years a-go there were two im)porlting and expolrting houses of imlnortance at IsaFACTS ABOUT bella Segunda, and the now vacant warehouses are THE ISLAND OF VIEUES. 1in goodl repair, awaiting the advent of some enterprising American, who will buy them for a song. Business was ruined on the island because of a long drought and under the pressure of enormously high duties on foreign imported goods the trade has decreased to local consumption only. For some I'UIERT() RICO, ITS (IfTIPS' AND ITS PEIOPLEI. 3; j (' - 3 )# ) bitne past all si1t)plies havetN1 lyeeii brought' from1 KSan Juian and Ponice, the niaJoIrity behing of Ainericanm origin. T'hw (lilflate of Vileques, is g)ood and contacgious disea-ses have never been known on the i-sland. The sea ai ds(elightfully br~acing andi the thei-nometer is ever at that comfortable mark which periiiits the wearing of duck clothingf all IhIe yve~ar around. C1ulebra, eight nilies nrorth of Vieques, is an islan(I eight miles b~y three anid a halt miles aii extent, to thie east of Which is the fa s([nt lg iseto i lbria.rlie highi house is here mdanlL bealutiftill har11bor is to be found(j in the nlarrow chcanniel 1)etweenl. TO( the Nvest o)f (1nlebrta is the isle, of 1fl'olominos, but a, fewv nu1les froil Ftajardo), oni the main island of Puerto l~ico, and well jprot ectdb h hars a, Stretch of water, from which rises the stately white lighthouse of Cabeza de San Juan. 1Here the. waters of the Caribbean sea, playing at, hidle and seek amnongr the reefs, and shoal-s which fringe the east coast of Puterto Rico, jOin the helavy swells of then Atlantic and strive for mlastery a t each chiange of the current. On the southern coa-st, of Pulerto) Rico), oppJosite the harbor of Ponce and buat five mniles from shore, is Caja dle Muerto island, where there is good anchorage. Its coasts abound 'in fish and are surrounded by quays. To the west of Cape Riojo, off the western coast of Puerto RICO, is the island of Mona, of volcanic origin. Its coasts rise perpendicularly to a great height above the sea level. It is inhabited by a few fishermen and abounds in wild cattle, goats and swine. It is this island that gives the name to the Mona passage, the channel separaiting Puerto Rico from Haiti. Monito is a very small island north of Mlona. Besides these there are many islets and quays along the east coast of Puerto Rico from Cape San Juan southward to Hlumacao. The total population of the island of Puerto Ri1co is, perhaps, 900,000, although there is no census sufficiently accurate to afford definite figures. The island is known as "the whitest of the Antilles" because the negyro population is less domi- POPULATION AND RACES OF nant. there than in any other of the West Indies. PUERTO RICO.Probably 150,000 of the inhabitants are peninsulares, as n r the natives of Spain arermed throughout the colony. Froim 12,000 to 1.4,000 are foreigners, mostly Frenchmen, Germans, Italians and I P /t/11 J RuoCI'JC, uS C1ihXS, 48 Ii'S' PPOPLV. 4 ) )1 1' 12 [io-lishmieni. The native pul)(1)i1l ion is compomsed ot about two-thirdIs whifi es, who are dlescendanits of Span~iards, an(1 one-thirdl nefrroesaiI those of mnixed blood or kalf-castes. Maniy of the blacks come from li)arbadloes, Jamiaicai St. rlhlEnlils an11d the other A1ntilles. It is evidenit flizit the (lensity of popuilattion of heic isla 11( is gr-eal, the nearest estimat"Ies calculaiting~ a bout '2.50 per squmare mile. This far outranks the jpopullaItion of C~uba, for the( Litter isl~and, althougoh some thirteen thiiiiS' ais hrlar-e as Puerto Meico contains not nearly twice as largre a poptulalionl. Trhis,, fact. must be kept in min d in cacllbgthe possibilitie o)f the( commnercial and agri ctiiiura~l developuient of the 'ountry.. rlhx west erii ptart, of tite island is far more (ilensely popullated. tlmia the eastern. The reason for this probably- lies in the fact, l.' tht the ea..st. coast is" onl the winidwa-rd side anud oilers less protection for shipp~ing, consequienl~ty it-, isiot so coiiveniently situated for trade. All, cf the larg-er towns of the east are situated inlanmd or at. least some (listance fromn the coaist. They are in the hilly portion of the island~ aiiil1 are surroiundedl byrch co ffee, p]lantations and] grazing~ land of consider~able extent. The inha,(bittants of Puerto Bl~ico) are scattered all over the country and there is no unsettled district. In slpite of the fact that they have many townis and villag~es, some of them of considerTHlE ENTIRE able s~-ize, yet there is no) road so lonesome that the T ISKLAN ETE).native cabins (10 not appear at frequent intervals surrouned by their own little fariun and garden. Within time last tifty years, however, while the population has beena steadlily increasn,1111 there has been a drift into the towns and citieN so that thiese have grown more rapidly than the rural districts. San Juan, the capital of Puerto ilico, with a population of somie 233,000, is one of the imost picturesque examples of the walled city of antiquity that can be found anywhere. It is situated on the northern coast, on a long and narrow island separated fromt the main island of Puerto ilico by a shallow arin of the sea. At the western extremity of the city the island site (-ends with a rugged. promontory and b~luff mnore, than 100 feet in heio'ht, facing, the sea and the harbor entrance. Thsis (crowned with the principal fortification of the city, the famou AmoTro castle. The form of the castle is that of an obtilse anglie, wit hi PltJI'RO RICO, ITS Cill'1i' is ) 1'S l1 ()l11i+. I 1elcc titers of batteries, placet(d Oll above i lie ot (lher, to(wardll tllhe seai, t heir fires crossing o(ne anothler. Toward the city it has a wall flanked bv two bastions of helavy artillery, which dlo. inate all the interniediate space, covering tlle city thorouglhly and indicating an intent to prep)are for troublet fronl the landl side, as if danger was to be fearced fromn the people whlo( professed allegiancet to th(e Hag wlli'hl floated froIn its staff. The usual barracks are here, large water tanks may be seen and several warehouses. The cross on the spire of a small chapel shiiiiliters in tlhe sunlight. A mine dlescenids from the castle to tlhe seashore thlrolugh the (lentranc'e of tlhe port, its issue being defen(ded by a battery. Troops may enter and learve tle works byt t llis (Iiieains, plro(Iectedl from( the fire of an enemy. The site of this fortification lIas always been regarded withl preference by officers detailed to constriuct defe(nses for tlie city. Originally it was but a single battery, although as far back as MORRO CASTLE 1584 tlie plani of the fortress was dIrawnI and grad- MRRO AS AND nally developed until reaching its present state of SN IOBA perfection. When renmo(leled and armed witlh m1odern rifles, behind which are stationedl Amterican artillerymelln, it will be impregnable. On the top of tlis castle is a revolving liglht rising to a height of 170 feet above tlile level of the sea and sending its rays eiglteen miles across the waves of tlie Atlantic. About one mile eastward from tlhe harbor entrance and Morro castle, still facing tlhe sea and northeast of the city, is the castle of San Cristobal. It defends San Juan on tlhe land side, occ(upying nearly the whole width of the islet froml tl1h bay to tlle o('N1ean n111d pointingr its fire in all directions. Its structure is acco()nllm odatl(,ed to{ thle lalt-ure of tlhe ground, whlich is uneven. Thle ca(stle has two larg-e bombl-proof barracks and everytlhing necessary in tlhe way of offices and store rooms. Above the barracks is erected tlie Caballero fort, wiith twentytwo cannon, whose fire dominates tlhe city and its vicinity on land and sea. Below the castle is the drill ground, witlh batteries directed toward tlie sea, the land, an(l tie drlawhbri(dge. Three large ravelins follow the schelme of defense: San Carlos, occupying the hilltop; Principe, on the slope of the Ceusta, and Principal, where is the drawbridge of the second fosse, giving issue to 3f(6 PUERTO RICO(), ITS C 17'1:1S AIND ITS PEOPLE. (colllter t-re('les, t thlc irevcclrsl t field ral e, l lrolui,'l thelate of Sainttiao)o. For thle m.ost pl'it all thlse fortifications are clut fromll solid rock, a1l1( tlle tiers of batteries as viewed frol the sea give the.imlpressioll of iillllenlse power, allthough we know that tlhey areTI I'ldequat ideate 'n mode'lrn warfare. San (ristob:al castle is connectedl with Morro castle on the nortl by a. wall of miiodern construction, tlherle lhavilng b)een othiln on thlat side until thle end of thel past ce(ntiury, excep)t a few batteries, owillng to ill(e k1;iiNowled le Ilat l( le ro1g'llness of illte (')tost rendered unnecessary a! llNy l'igreatler fiortifl ica(ii(ls to previent;i l;anlil 1g. St;lartill frl'o( llle soulltilhe part ol f Sall C(l'ist(obal castle and following- tlhe ed(lgt f tllebay a ll. line obf lb)lwarks is lencountered, being tlloste (of Salltiaglo anld San1 ( lPedll, ithe cllrtain being inlterrupted by tlhe lEspana gatlet, a fter wiich follow the bulwark of San Justo andl a galte of the salle na1i~me, whliclh formlls an larch l 1u(der the c('urtain. Then lcii(es tlle ]alf-bulwl lks of San Jlusto, tlie bullwark IWETAILS 1OF HE o ^ f la Pl'.1111a San.I( Jose(, t pla ltforlml of (?oTlnepciMl, SAN JUAN FORTIFICATIONS. t)o Ilie hallf-bulwarkl a1nd fofrtr-ess of Santa Catalina. From here to the lhalf-bulwark of San Akgustin to the west is the gate of San Juan and then tlhe platf)ornl of Santa Elena. These fortifications were begunn in 1,30 and finished in 1641, but not until 1771 were the castle of San Cristobal and the outworks built. These latter consisted of rifle-pits and loop-holed batteries between the town andl the San Antonio bridge. At the liead of the bridge is situatel t-le San Antonio fo)rt. It is lthis bridge tllht connects tlie island with thle ain lalnd, a;dll over which every one approaching the city must pass. (Guarded as it is, it would have been a most difficult task for infantry and( cavalry to force an entrance into the city. On tlhe extreme east of the islet and near the San Antonio bridge, is the small fort of San Jeronimo, which also defends the passage. Between Morro eastle and thle opposite shore, thus virtually in the middle of the entrance to tlie bay from tlle outer ocean, is a small fort called Canuelo. It is oblong, well fortified, anm by its position obliges vessels attempting to force an entrance to the fort to pass actually within rifle range of its fire and that of Morro castle. Formerly, in PUERTO RICO, IT S A]i3S 1 NVD 15' PE'I OPLJE.:' f!) case of war, a (llaill was flhrlown out between tl lis and MO To1, calstle to( (clos( the (itiran(ce to tle 1)ort. San JillaIl islanild, (n which thlle city is built, is shape'd muc1( like ian armll and( a hlandl. The1 gre at(st wvi(tll at tlie west(eri extSrellllity is half a mile, aid hee(l, on tlle s,l)in tiiills, tlie tvernT1It CITYV An'!I illent buildings, as well zas tle l1business tland residence THE CITY AND ISLET OF (listricts, are establislhed(. \When one dtlives east- SN JUlAN. ward, lhe finds tlhe islant cointinu;lly narrowing until, as lie lpasses San1 (0 istoball ca.lstle (oI tlie' w\:V to S>ani Aitonlio bridLSge, 1I1e bea(llltiful bo)levar)11 is 'il'rcu scribed be een bay ani sea, whereltl ie total widlti o(f tHie isllandl is less tla one-quarter of la liil('. The public builldigs (f Sani J1ai111 a re in tlle ii(lst (,f thei city, near tlhe western end of tlhe islet. Thely include t!l( necessatry instituttions ()f chlarity, the captain-general's palac(e and tile g(vernment offices, the balrracks, thospita ls, tle (at hedl, tll( town iill, tlhe educational institute, the priests' semlinary, Ian(l Ile cou(rts. Ilere, too, are th-e prin(cipal business streets, (coltaining tl-e banks, steamnshlI) offices, stores and lotels. There are several small plarks and plazas embellished withl statuary and tro{pical sllrubbery. The tlleater is in tle other end of town, almost under tlhe shlad(ow (of San Cristobal castle. In spite of llie tr aditinal tiltIt of cities under SpIanishl administration, I 1ami c(lilelle(l(1 to, say tlhat the lusiniess and residence section of San Juan wo(uld entitle it to be c alled a marveloulsly clean city. I know no city in tile United States except Washington which compares with it in the cleanliness of its streets. It is paved throughout witll vitrified brick andl tlie paving is kept in the best condition. The cleanliness must be credited in great degree to the hilliness of the city. The streets are on such an incline thlat there is little wheeled traffic to iiair lhe paving, and the frequent SURPRISING CLEANLINESS showers of rain wasli all the dlirt off and down into OF THE STREETS. the bay. In passing, through the poorer quarters, lhowever, one gatlers facts which compel the admission that, however clean the streets may be, the inside of the houses is not kept as well. An American would prefer the street in many cases. San Juan is lighted by gas and electricity. There is good telegraph and telephone service throughout the city and the island cable 31-0 i 87() IJULIRTC) RIC0O ITS (i/l.IPS,IA I) I'SJIO~E service to the rs.of the world is excellent. Ice in anufactuiredl ii, suflicient. (Jilan11tity. The wai~iter supply is obtaiLned entirely foiumi cisterns, but it seeins to be wholesome anrid sehiont responsible fo-I. sickness. Ponc, te lages ciy of Puetirto Rico anmd the uimporta nt port oil Ihe sou1th coa-Cst, is by no iiieans as5 afttractiv-e or interesting a, city as, San Juan. The population of Ponce is, perhiaps, 40,000, although this maty be a "'eiiieroiis estimate. Tfle city is uot~ one of the older settleintiets of the island, but its port and the spleud~id agrlicUltural countr~y tributarv to it have stimuilated its ogrowth,And commerce. The citv is iiot. built. iii(Nar the seta, but three miles inlandl. At thle port, whereI all the im1port 811(1 ex port tradek cent ers, atre many of thie mnore, impor,taut croveruilneit oftices. Mayagui'lez, the jprincipall city of the wvest coa'st, has a population of 12,000 or 1-5,000 and is one of the iiost Ipicturesqule places in the island. It is a clean, well-kcept city, hand'somiely built land modern. Its exportis include sugar1, coff ee and OTHER (ITIES. fruits. It has lhospittals, a mre place, a theater and a public library, besides various public building's that are highly creditable to the place. Mayaguez is connected withi Aguadilla lby rail. AVreciho is the p)rincipal towin on the north coast, west of the( capital, with which it is connected by rail. It has a tine p~laza and cathedral, a town hall and a theater with mnany lpretentious residences, and excellent stores. The territory tributary to Arecibo is exceedingly fertile and easily accessible by t he north coast railway, so that it i~s certain to be the sceien of inve'stiment anl (levelolpment under the Amnerican regiire-. The inost important town of the east coast is Ilimacao, which.1 does a considlerahle local tradle and is the. center of a rich agrricuiltural district. Guayama, on the south coast, which was the starting poinit for General lProoke on his journey across the island, is an attractive town with a fine clathedral a-nrd plaza. In the country behi~nd Guayaniia aend in the, mountains which bound the valley are hiirge sugar plattaitions and coffee plantatious of great value. There are many other towns of local importance ~nd large trade, Jl),/TkT1VI1O RIICO, ITS CITIS',SIV) 'ND JTS tPE'OPLlLE. 37 t(:he lIaeill(s i a1 hadll lly )wnlJll W toI Am'el'ican )1s8:, Ilbut which will b"o('()l1(e famlliliair' (11(ough11 wheI 11 1()o'e i1ntili(ate c(0mlli'l'ce(' b(,eilts. In tle west l(orimig'li(lros, San11 (lerian lan(1d n al Se(batianl, Lares and Anas'o imust be named. In tlhe south (uanica and Yauco are certain to (lcvelop). The il('i(rI' o)f tlhe island lias any 1 Iprospero)('(us towns whlich tre the center of agicllltll ral (listl i(ts (f lgr(eat ferltility. Among these are Adjuntas ad(1 UItIal(do bet-xween P10Ic(1 an{ d Arecilbo, and C( moam, Aibonlifo, (Cayex and 11(1ag1as o11 n tl( IRIOR TOWNS OF nmilitary roa(1 between\\(l I'ce a('(d S1a Juan. Haa- UERTO RKCO. morl, Rio edi 11,l1s a (nd! 1a)oli l 'a a, ('(elntlrs of s1garr' cu(ltivation not far fro' Sat.Juani. There is 1ha,(11 (one of these towns lthat does not offer intetreslillg novelties to the traveler or coinercial o(I)polrtunities in its vi('ility () tlte il\vest(r. As to the c(haliactelristi s o(f ite I)u'rtonr(iquei'ilans, we have some interesting t(estil(lmony. from one whlIto (ouglit. to be an aluthority. I have a little text blook of g,)eorally, writteln by a l(oc(al elducator, and usedl in the schools of Puelrto Rico. I find i it a lpararap in wllhich he answers his own lquestion, "W\\ltat is tile c(.l;ara:cl(ter o(f the Pl'erto(riqueflans?" "ilis lmalner is affable( alnd a(coom(ll(dating. Ilis (,olp)lexiol1n usually is slightly pale, his alpearance agrleeabtle, his figure graceful al ld his bearing dignified yet alert. Thle IPu11ertri(que(ans are honorable, valiant and hospitable. Their constitti ion, like that of most inha.bitants of hoIt countries, is frail anT(d subj(ect to sickness, ye (t titer'e are nany1l individ(luls, particiularly tliose( w( alre (1en' (I(ed in p1 ysical lalbor, who Jre st rong, agile 11(1 robust. Against 1 suc testilllnly as:I this it wouldl be impossible to off'er (denial. As a matter of fa.ct, Sen(or S(oler has very we ll outlined the facts as they are. Througlhout the ch;lapters of thlis book 1are relate(l incidents whicl may be o(f service in POSSIILE AMERICANISM estilmating charact(ristics of the people. It is suffi- OF TIlE PEOPLE. cient to say here that, like tliose of otller ((counlties, Ili(y have mingled good( a1(1 batd q.l alllites iln fair p)roportion. There is, however, nothing about te lpeople of this island wlichl mlakes the prospect of adapting them to American lmet llods and 1 tmanners a dubious one. CHAPTER XXV. TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. How Tourists Will Journey About the Island to Visit the Attractions It OffersHow the Railway System Was Designed and Built-Business Methods of the French Contractors-The Country Reached by the Railways-Tram Lines and Private Railway Lines-An Opportunity for American Capitalists and Engineers-The Great Military Road Across the Island-Re:narkable Bridge and Road Construction by Spanish Engineers-A Five-Mile Pash Down HillSugar and Coffee Plantations-An Avenue of Poinciana-Primitive Roads Through the Remoter Parts of the Island-The Methods of Spanish DriversAcross Puerto Rico by Diligence. EW visitors to the island of Puerto Ilico will be content to end their journey with a (glimpse of the island cal)ital and the south coast metropolis of Ponce. The scenery of the interior, with its commanding beauty, and the attractions of island agriculture, will draw all but the most casual tourist to explore for himlself tliese varyinog conditions. IIe will find available for his travel, first the great mlilitary road which crosses the island, and next the railways which were planned to encircle it. ITe will utilize the railways for lis visit to tle coast cities, except where they are yet unconmpleted. lie will travel by carriages over the military road, and it mnay be necessary for him even to employ horses and ride inste.ad of driving into some of the mlore attractive mountain regions. The most desirable destinations are not in every case the most easily accessible in Puerto Rico, any more than they are in other countries. In the reorganization of the railway system of Puerto Iico, some American promoter and some American capitalist should find profit. In the whole island there are not enough railway l)ossibilities to mnake fortunes for many rival manipulators, but a few will find a field awaiting them, or one "Napoleon of finance" may discover RAILWAY OPPORTUNITIES FOR even a bonanza. Just now the service is in a thorAMERICANS. oughly disorganized condition, not likely to be remedied( until Americans become interoested. The indications are that this time will not be long in coming. 372 T'RAVEL IN PUERNTO RICO. 3173 Some years ago, this island, in its capacity as a provinlce of Spain — not a clolony-realized that railways were essential to the levelopiient, of the country and its future prosperity. The military roadls built by the Spanish government gave fairly goool comnmtunication across; the island, andl through a region where the expense of constructi lol of a railway woouldl be so great as to be almost prohlibitive. It was planned, therefore, to construct a line around the island, followvingr the coast aJpproxiniately, andi tapping the valleys by means of spur lines wherever business (lenlan(ledl or the character, of the country peCritted. All the largest cities were on the c(olast and thus would be coflfle)111clenfd wli liel capital. The line consequently w-l~ould combine the aNl-antaiges of laro-est business and easiest construction. it is at pity that time has not served to complete the system as plannedl. Bids were requested from capitalists in Europe and] America for the construction of a circuni-island line undler favorable condlitions offered by the government of Puerto P1ico, but the responses were slow to come and far fromt numerous. It is hinted that tNew York anl a LondIon and Frankfort andl the other centers of railwa-ty-bui dintR c1jl4ia11 did not care for a concession which wN, as to be comiplicated with Spanish authority and micglht involve large expenses other than the ones to) which they were accustomed in othei.r -- countries. However that miay be, but one bid came to Puerto Hico, that one from a French company, with which the provincial a utliorities finally niaid ale ternms. There were two essential features in the, chiarter as it wvas dlraw1n and accepted by both parties to the agreement. rfThe railway comipany promised to complete the line completely encircling time island withihusix years, anl the government ga-ve to the cupny an exclusive franchise for all railway construction in thie FRENCHMEN TRY RAILWAY island for ninety-nine years, and uarate intrest NSTRUCTION. of eight per cent on the cost of construction. Neither promise has been kept, and the (efforts to settle are now in aL state of chaos. After the usual fashion in such affairs, the French g'raInftees organized two corporations in Paris, one companyriv to hold tIhe stock of the road and operate it after completion, the other to construct it and be paid in construction bonds. There is a, distinct reminiscence of the ') -.t 7'ATRNV>'.II. IN I'JF U'.T() 7 WC(). ( red it Mohilici' in t(lhe mat 1er. Work on the surveys for ile whole Hite wdas n1(ar'ly iendetd 1)efore the cr(ash caie Tl'. ra ying progressed fairly wl'11 at. thies, whlle tlle perl;i(ml of i lterest pay,Ient drew Inear, so tIlt ih t was wo \\ li ile to d o somet l 1 f r I ti le sake of eI Ira( I 1 lement. 'Three il t(llant (portions of thell line were co( (1( let'( ed 1ad pu it ()o)pera1tion 11ltder the It( eIms (f tlhe flra(lchise. T'1he first-:llnd lo ilgest is f romt Sa8 Juanl to (.Camu1, a few miles west of Arecibo 1)( the north c()oast. In its course of 1()00 kilomelters it passes tirioihrm ih eihlt statimols, so1me of then1( towis of ill(mportance. The ciliountry is as well developed an1d Ias suscletiblle (of cult ivat ion als any iI tlie island, wlihile thIe t 1-iransverse valle ys throl llugh which many m11oulntalin streamlls coimle down( to tlhe (ocean11 aret. richl, landl wou()ll 1b tap)l)ed( eaisily Iby wao (I roalds. o(i ra 'ilwaly t)bran cl( es. There is one thr-Iough train a (day each way bet(weeii Sati Juanlil (1t.ll auI!y, tbesides tw whichl co(erli part( oItf (f till (list;t.l(c. lFroI (amiluv w(estward there( is ta,ap1) in ilie svstem11, 11til A(ladilla on tle Awest coast is re1achedl, where the ]illne begills 1aIaill. lrnomii tIhis polint. it. ext ends sotllllwalrd to I: 110111 goi eros, palssilng tfll()lrough Maagiuez, which is (one of the mlost I ttf ra (i xtiv anl )I '(),l rogressi ve 1:TENT OF TAIIOWAYlY S IN W IIws itl l e islaiId, tIlirdt in siZe. This line li1s a, PUEiRTO n1-ICO. lengthlt (of 58 kilom(eters. Then comnes an.(otlher lliahius until Yau11(co is reached(, ()on the so)utl coast, where the line begins 'which Ilas its (tolerl termtinuls ea.lstward at 'Ponice, a tlisti(anc of 35 kilometers. The' Compania Francesa has built- ls() a. line froml tl capital (eastward to Ca(o11liila, 283 kilomneters. 1The( tllree lines first nalllmed hiav e )(eefn c()ompIleted, (equippedl) a1(! set to lrunning within t;lhe t.ille and( in a(cc'(or'(ldailce with. tll(' term's of I thl francllise, as distinct sectio-ns of the,nltire( system. The plroi)vin cii. goverInlilent las 1accepl),te(ld thilem un1der tlhose terils anl( the groverniml(e]t. ob)ligalti)on t) larant ( tl -ilt ler ((e igt cnt int:erest oii their i ()ost (f co()struction la s ((been reco'ized. T1I l(in runill ill to) ( 'arliln, lhow(ever, hlas I()t. bee (( cepted('t( by the government a(s co(mp)l'yi wit thel time( and S()ol(I otl(hr (c1(onitiollS, andl co('nsequelnlitlV is cmontinueld unlder th(e operatl)(ti of (f tie constructio(l (c mlpally. Ever since tlle first section of tlie line was a tcceptedl )y tlh(e gover'lmenti, the island tre(asury li as b)(een payiIlg Imo()lney anllll11lly t(o settil t I' defic(its an(l brling, tihe( intcres't e(arning up1 to eihlt per cli. At t l ~~~~~~'l _~ I )lt! ),' ((~I A;s F77 —~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~: h ' -!:' * * ' '' * ' * ' * -:'' * '**i~~::i-::: i-:; Th prjci md gro.d costu ofiete i fronm the drdigof the h br On it arde b lttleice "**.. ' "^/ ~~~~~~ ~~~docks, gesWorks-, adtehonsof iylbres EI M _ _ 011 — | | | | | 6b~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~b l l I _t~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ — ---- eggl I BY* 2 M 1 1 dI n!1s T1H[E P ASEQ, SAN JUAN DE PUERTO RICO. Ts r i.; btttt; - 1d tilts f'rni } ' Fo th,. "'"r ojslitd t h i~l e~..I ~ ~ ~ ~ 'i t i h l,,,-l 1, n tlL TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 377 Ile time came when the people protested that the railway company had some obligations of its own, to build more line. Then the paylient of the interest deficit stopped, with the result that the island treasury is now about $60,000 behind in that item, and the French investors are in trouble. Iowever, their trouble had begun long before that. Both the colmpanies h(ad failed, and were getting along very comfortably with eight per cent on what they had invested. There was no governrment minister of railways or any other high officer to watch their laimus. They would render accounts of the amount they had spent and the volume of business done, and after a perfunctory auditing the government would settle whatever seemed to be the deficit in earnings at the rate named. For the last year, the Compania Francesa has been threatened with real difficulty. The charter long ago lapsed by its own terms, but it has not been declared forfeited. The home government of Spain retained a sufficient hold on the authority to require itself to be consulted on matters which might make OFHRFEITER S complications with foreign capitalists. But at last THREATENED. the province of Puerto Rico made a strenuous demand on the mother country that a forfeiture be declared, in order that the system might be turned over to some other capitalists, if any such could be found under the existing circumstances, who would complete the lines so badly needed. If the war had not come when it did, it is likely that this request would have been granted, and the Spanish high courts would have taken action. The company which owns the railways makes no report for public information, so that no statistics are available as to the volume of its business. Cars; of first, second and third class are run, with ticket prices per kilometer respectively 5, 3 and 2 centavos, silver. Freight rates are so high that transportation by ox-carts is found to be cheaper, and all along the railway from the capital to Camuy, for instance, the wagon road at the side of the railway is busy with the freighting of crops and supplies when the trains are half empty. The reduction of freight rates to a fair price would add this traffic to the railway company's business and stimulate trade at the same time. All the lines are in fairly good shape as to road-bed and equip 378 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. ment, the one from Aguadilla to Hormigueros being the best. The engines and cars are French, light of course, but sufficient for the light grades and light traffic on a narrow gauge line. The gauge of the track is one meter and twenty centimeters, or forty-seven and one-fourth inches. Speed of trains is regulated by the government, and ranges from twelve to twenty kilometers an hour. The staSGOERNMENT tions are sufficient for the traffic, and altogether, so OF RAILWAYS. far as the line extends, it may be considered a very fair railway system for the little island. In addition to the lines named, the same company has built a branch from Anasco on the west coast, a station half-way between Aguadilla and Hormigueros, to San Sebastian and Lares, 35 kilometers northeast into the hills. It is of one-meter gauge. Then there is a local tram line, operated by steam, of the same gauge, from San Juan to Rio Piedras, through the popular suburb of the capital, Santurci. The length of this line is eleven kilometers. Another tram of the same sort starts at Catano, a suburb just across the harbor from San Juan, and extends to Bayamon, ten kilometers distant. I have been thus explicit to name every mile of railway in the island open for public service, because the maps of Puerto Rico are totally unreliable in this detail, and many of the descriptions equally so. With a fine confidence in the promises of the construction syndicate, every map issued since the charter for the circum-island line was granted has shown it completed, and even the latest maps are following the same blunder. In addition to the ones I name, tram lines may have existed at one time from the city of Ponce to the Playa, its port, and from Guayama to Arroyo. At any rate, along the roads connecting those places, at intervals one may see outcroppings of a vein which lead to the belief that by excavation other rails might be found. It is not likely that isolated rails would appear every half mile unless they were connected with some others under the surface. Some of the large sugar "contrals" have railway lines to bring cane to the mill, with locomotives and freight cars in abundance, but they are not for general traffic. Some one will have to reorganize and complete the railway around the island of Puerto Rico. TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 379 The great military road across the island of Puerto Rico is a work of the highest credit to the engineers who built it, but of very little to the Spanish government. It was built for no love of the people, not to assist the development of commerce and facilitate easy access to the sugar and coffee plantations, THE FAMOOUS MILITARY ROAD but only as a military affair in order that troops OF PUERTO RICO. iiight be rushed to any point when insurrection was tlhreatened. This does not alter the fact that the road would be praised by any traveler who journeyed over it, as one of the finest of such works. There is a total of some 250 miles of government-built highway in the island, of which two-thirds is included in the portions connecting Ponce with Guayama, San Juan and Utuado. The construction of this through such a mountain region has been a work of great expense. There have been mountain passes and defiles to thread, chasms to cross and marshes to fill. The construction of these roads begins with the grading, which is done as carefully as for a railway, although, of course, much heavier grades are permissible. There is then put on a heavy layer of crushed rock and brick, which, after having been well packed and rounded, is covered with a layer of earth. This is well packed also and upon the whole is spread a layer of ground limestone, which is pressed and rolled until it forms almost a glossy surface. This makes a road perfect alike for carriages, footmen, cavalry, or bicycles. It is not muddy or slippery in rainy weather nor is it dusty in dry seasons. No freshet is sufficient to wash it out. The bridges throughout the entire length of the road are of solid masonry, built on arches to the full width of the highway and paved over the bridges exactly like the road itself, so that one does not dis. cover any difference in passing over such bridges. The roads are carefully ditched and drained on both sides. All along these highways, at intervals of about SHELTERS FOR six miles, stand substantial buildings erected for the THE SOLIERS purpose of sheltering the civil guards of the island, the Spanish constabulary which has served as an island police force. These houses are constructed of solid masonry, of uniform and suitable architecture and of varying size, according to the demands likely to be 380 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. made upon them. They are not post-houses for travelers, but are intended entirely for government purposes. When soldiers were sent across the island on account of threatened insurrection, these were the barracks at which they stopped during their marches. The first fine road which the American army found when it came ashore in Puerto Rico was that from the Playa or port of Ponce to the city itself. Here the way was crowded with traffic between the cities. Thousands of American troops had advanced into the island by roads extending beyond Ponce, and they had to be kept supplied fromn the provisions and munitions of war landed at the port. lundreds of ox-carts traveled up and down that highway day after day, bearing the heaviest traffic that could ever be concentrated on it, and yet the road showed no signs of deterioration. More than anything else in the island, it was the sight of this perfect road to welcome them, with the excellent docks and town of the Playa at one end and the city of Ponce at the other, that sent the American soldiers on their way feeling that they had come to a favored isle. The first impression of Puerto Rico was very different from the first impression they received of Cuba. One may cross the island from Ponce or Guayama to San Juan, either by diligence or by public coaches. In times of peace coaches leave each city daily, connecting at Cayey and exchanging passengers and mails, making the trip between San Juan and Guayama in sixteen hours and between San Juan and Ponce in twenty hours. These coaches, however, carry so much local business from village to village and run at such unpleasant hours, day and night, that SPEED OF TRAVEL they are by no means the most comfortable method ACROSS THE ISLAND. of travel. By choice one should travel by diligence, which is by no means expensive, thus gaining time, comfort and the pleasure of a daylight trip. The carriage for a journey from Ponce to San Juan would leave the former city at five in the morning and at eight that night would be in the capital. When it is remembered that a large part of the way is up hill, through a mountainous country, this does not seem bad driving for a distance of ninety-seven miles. Horses are changed four or five times and sometimes oftener during the distance, accord TRAVE EL IN PUERTO RICO. 381 ing to the progress being made. The native drivers are altogether merciless and lash their little horses constantly, so that the pace is always a run. There is no slacking of speed up hill until the strength of the team fails, and down hill it is a mad race to see whether horses or carriage will arrive at the bottom first. For those who are not in so much of a hurry, the journey can be pleasantly broken and extended to two or three days. The saving of speed, however, does not do the horses any good, for they are urged in the same way until the halting place is reached. The passenger is brought to his destination that much sooner and has a longer time to wait than if he were going to continue his journey on the same day. Our immediate party, which drove from Ponce to San Juan by way of Guayama while yet the island was under Spanish dominion, was composed of Messrs. Root of the New York Sun, Millard of the Ilerald, Dill of the -Tribune, Thomp- A CAVALCADE OF WAR son of the Associated Press, Walker of Harper's CORRESPONDENTS. Weekly, Mrs. White and myself. We left Ponce at three in the afternoon of a beautiful August day, and at six o'clock that night were at the beautiful Balios de Coamo, twenty-six miles away. Strangely enough, the first mile or two of the road, within the outlying parts of the city of Ponce, is abominably rough and ill-kept. This is because it is in the city, and, consequently, not a part of the Spanish royal road through the island. Once the city was left behind, there was no further interruption in the perfect pleasure of the drive. Without ever a jar from rut or pebble, the carriage whirled on, leaving the kilometer posts behind so rapidly that one could hardly keep account of them. Iere was a stone arch bridge spanning a dashing mountain stream of clearest water; now some children scattered to the sides of the road in order to give us right of way through a little village of a dozen native houses. The fields were fields of sugar-cane in every direction, the plantation-house showing among the hills, some distance from the road, with a picturesque lane leading back to it. A grove of cocoanut palms or royal palms shaded the plantation-house and the sugar mill, with its tall brick chimney. Bananas, mangoes, 382 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. and other tropical fruits surrounded every little cabin by the roadside. The Spanish engineers had looked forward to the health of tlhe soldiers and the speed of their marching, even if they cared notling for their comfort. Mile after mile the road was shaded by a perfect network of leaves from the trees on either side, whose branches met in the middle above our heads, forming an umbrageous arch through which the cavalcade sped on. There was color effect to a(dd to the other beauties of the scene. Iapid of growth and dense of shade, the trees selected for this arch were the beautiful ones known in America, when one can be seen, as the royal poinciana. In AN AVENUE the Spanish tropics the tree is variously known as OF FLOWERING i OTREES. arbol flamboyant, flaming tree, or arbol de fuego, tree of fire. It bears blossoms of the most gorgeous crinson, in such profusion that the tree itself seems a mass of flame, justifying whatever name is selected for it. It would be impossible to conceive a more picturesque avenue than one thus shaded. Song birds were all about, and for a background to the whole scene, one could choose to look back at the sea or forward to the mountains. Dusk comes suddenly in the tropics, and it was beginning to darken when we drew into the dooryard of the famous old hotel at the baths of Coamo. The mineral baths of Coamo are not immediately adjoining the city of the same name nor even on the military road itself. Two or three miles before reaching the city the carriages turn sharply to the right along a little river, and, wandering down the slopes of a wood road into the valley for two miles more, reach the most famous resort in the island. For hundreds of years the healing properties of these mineral springs have attracted visitors from a long distance. For at least a century facilities have been provided there for the wayfarers who sought relief from their maladies and desired hospitality convenient to the springs. The present hotel and bath-houses date back thirty or forty years, but remain in excellent condition and offer comforts and even attractions to the most exacting tourist. The hotel, with its colony of stables, servants' quarters and other necessary buildings, occupy the plateau perhaps 100 feet above the river. The bed robms, parlors and great TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 383 verandas, where guests make themselves comfortable in all weathers, are on the second floor, above any threat of dampness from the ground at nilght. All rooms open to the wide galleries or verandas and the guest can take his choice between outdoor and indoor parlors. The kitchen and dining-room are in a sep- ND BATH HOSE arate building, connected with the main building by OF COAMO. a covered way. To reach the bath-houses one must walk perhaps 200 feet through a series of roofed galleries, paved with stone, and gradually descending by scores of stone steps worn smooth by years of use, almost to the level of the river. At the bottom of this picturesque passage way is a bath-house so well equipped that it would find favor in the most famous watering-place of Europe. The floors and walls are of solid stone, kept immaculately clean. The tubs are hewn out of single blocks of stone and the larger bathing pools are tiled throughout. Such bath tubs are never seen in America. They are four feet deep and of the same width, and in some instances eight or ten feet long. Nearly every room has two of these tubs, so that one may step immediately from a bath of hot water to one of cold, both tubs being filled by the attendant before the patron is called to the room. Every form of bath that ingenuity has devised can be found here, the most modern and complicated needle showers adjoining that most simple and primitive appliance of all, the big tub. The springs here utilized so successfully flow in considerable volume and the supply has never failed in any season. The hot springs have a temperature of 117 degrees Fahrenheit. They hold in solution sulphur, iron and lime and have proven of equal value for baths and for internal use. They are of special service in skin diseases and rheumatism. The service at the baths is thoroughly satisfactory and no one need fear any lapse of cleanliness or attention. AN ALL-THE. For fifty years Coamo Balios has been a favorite YAROUND ' YAR.RO UND resort throughout the summer, not only for the people RESORT. of this island, but for those of Cuba, Haiti, Jamaica the Caribbees and even Venezuela and Guiana, who have sought relief from their own hotter climate. The hotel is arranged to accommodate about one hundred guests, and summer after 384 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. summer its capacity has been tested to the limit. If the same tide of tourist travel from the south can be maintained there during the suimmers under the American regime, and a new stream turned there froin the United States during the winters, it would seem as if the proprietor had in his possession that most desirable thing, a business whose season is all the year around. The newspaper colony regretted that it was hardly possible to take more than two baths each, between six o'clock in the evening and eight o'clock in the morning, when the next sta:le of the journey was begun. For the next day's drive we were compelled to abandon the military road, for the unimproved country roads of the island. Between Coamo and Aibonito were the mountains where Spanish forces still held the passes, facing the American troops, who were resting in their camp. It would have been a longer drive in miles, but an easier one, to reach Guayana by way of Aibonito and Cayey, but we had to yield to the exigencies of military law and not attempt a violation of the protocol. There is a country road extending southward from Coamo to Santa Isabel, near the coast, and that was the route of the next stage of our journey. The distance was ten miles and we had been taught to dread it by the stories we had heard of its roughness. As a matter of fact, it had been much more abused than its character deserved. Those of us who had been accustomed to the country A C ENUEAD roads of the United.States at all seasons of the year COUNTRY ROAD IN PUERTO RIO. saw nothing bad in this. The mud holes were no worse than the mud holes on the main roads near a prairie town of the central states. The hills were not as stony andl not as steep as those to which we were accustomed. This was in the deep woods and the least cultivated part of the island, but the foliage of flowers and trees gave novel scenery as we drove and the day was a beautiful one. The road direct from Ponce to Santa Isabel along the coast is mucll of the same character and we could have driven it without great difficulty. It was a matter of choice the day before to take the longer route by way of Coamo Bailos. From Santa Isabel to Guayama the road follows near the coast TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 385 all the way, a distance of some eighteen miles. There is but one town worth naming in the distance, the village of Salinas. Salinas and Santa Isabel are towns of, perhaps, 500 each, with no business houses except the little shops and markets necessary to supply the daily wanmts of the people. There is the inevitable church with the cr{oss and chimes, Santa Isabel being favored with a new one not yet completed, work on which had been interrupted by the war. The drive from Coamo to Guayama being consideredl a hard one, we were treated to a change of horses after we passed Salinas. The system by which the change of horses was assured was a novel one to me. We had come from Ponce to Coamo with a driver whose conltralct ended at that point. At the baths we dealt with the hotel-keeper, who agreed to put us into Guayama without difficulty in spite of the roads, which he declared to be execrable. About two hours before daylight he sent forward a team of fresh horses, in charge of a boy, who rode a third, and they spent the morning leisurely reaching a half-way point on the road. Then they were turned into a field to graze and when we came along a few hours later, our team pretty well spent, the change of horses was ready for us. In times of peace post horses may sometimes be found SYHTEI OF awaiting such demands, but it is quite a customary POST HiORES. practice to conduct the business in this way. Those of the party who did not stipulate so carefully for fresh horses on the journey were taken through without a change, with a great deal of discomfort resulting to themselves and the teams. The week of waiting at Guayamna was not an unpleasant one in spite of the fact that we overcrowded the small hotels and had to forage for ourselves in the shops and markets to supplement the hotel bill of fare. It was a never-failing surprise to us in the hotels of the smaller towns, that the people took no advantage of the excellent fruit and vegetable supplies available. With little difficulty we were able to obtain delicious melons and other fruits, which were never served in the hotels unless we brought them. In addition, we found French, Italian and German preserved fruits at the grocery stores, and, altogether, were able to combine a very satisfactory bill of fare. The drive from Guayama to Cayey was the slowest on record 'TRliAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. among the Puertoriquellan drivers. General Brooke and his staff, riding ahead, set the pace, beyond which none of us could go. Marching cavalry finds a steady walk quite rapid enough for the horses, and so our drivers for the first time in their lives found no opportunity to use the whip. Inasmuch as no noonday halt was expected, the newspaper contingent carried its own provisions for the journey and feasted on bacon sandwiches, cheese and cantaloupe, washed down with water from the cold mountain springs. A few of the stone bridges through the mountains had been partly dismantled by the retreating Spaniards, by the removal of the keystones from the arches. The fact that they had done no more to destroy the highway seemed to prove that they had a sentimental pride in the beautiful road and did not care to wreck it even when they were abandoning the island. There were a score of places where THE M1ILITARY the bridges spanned great chasms or the road was ROAD IN ' THE MOUNTAINS. built on a shelf hewn out of the side of a precipice, where a charge of dynamite would have so destroyed it as to make an interruption of (lays necessary before any progress could be made. At such places the possibilities of defense against an American advance were beyond estimate. As it was, the squad of engineers ahead of our party required but a few moments to bridge the little gaps left where arches were broken, so that there was no perceptible delay. From Guayama to the highest point in the pass through tllh mountains, the road winds upward through a splendid valley and along the slopes of the mountain peak caled El Torito. For miles it is possible to look back through the valley to the sea, the view comprehending one of the most beautiful tropical landscapes imaginable. Sugar plantations in the lowlands and coffee plantations on the hillsides show a high state of cultivation, all beautified by tropical foliage and roofed by the tropical sky. After passing the crest of the range and starting A VIEW ACROSS on the descent into the central valley of the island, THE CENTRAL VALLEY. it was possible for the cavalry squad and General Brooke to make better speed and we looked forward to increasing our own pace. By a mischance of the road, however, andl TRAtVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 387 an ill-timed yielding of the right of way to some wagons of the army train, our carriages found themselves pocketed with a dozen of tlihe six-mule teams and ponderous wagons ahead of us. Mile after mile we crawled along at what seemed a snail's pace, the road following the very edge of the precipices, with no space to pass on either side. A thousand feet below and miles away, we could see the town of Cayey in a smiling valley given over to sugar plantations. Across the valley rose the second range of mountains, a lesser chain which separates from the main ridge, and far away beyond these was a glimpse of the blue north Atlantic ocean. At last a little plateau grown up to small shrubbery gave the road more width and we made haste to pass the wagons. By this time the cavalry had left us four miles behind and almost had reached the valley which lay far below, with only two or three miles separating tlhe squad from its prospective triumphal entry into Cayey. We must not miss the sight. All restraint was removed from the impatient drivers. The horses were fresh after their slow journey. The road was perfect without an irregularity sufficient even to jar the wheels. We could not see more than fifty yards ahead on the tortuous highway winding down the mountain side, but we must get to the bottom. Down went the lashes and then began the maddest race that the hills of Puerto Rico ever saw. There are traditions of such driving by the mountain stage-drivers of our own west, but I am unable to believe that there was ever a wilder A FIVE-MILE DASH dasli for five miles down hill than this. When we DN HIL DOWN HILL. reached the foot of the long descent and caught the cavalry just in time to join them in the procession, we looked at one another in exhilaration, but frankly admitting that we were glad to be safe on the level. The march from Cayey to Caguas crossed the interior valley, which includes the northern half of the province of Guayama, through a succession of highly cultivated sugar plantations of the most pro. ductive character. There was picturesque scenery to insure the day's pleasure, but no such mountains as those between Guayama and Cayey. We reached Caguas about 2:30 in the afternoon and found it a larger place than Cayey, with a beautiful plaza, in which Spanish 388 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. troops were swarming. Two thousand were quartered in the barracks of this city. The hotels of Caguas proved to be the worst we had found in the island and the smallest. For himself and his staff officers, General Brooke obtained a fine private residence for headquarters, while his cavalry escort and army train went into camp near the city. It remained for the newspaper contingent to find quarters for theimselves. One hotel accommodated three of the men and then overflowed. Mrs. White and I found quarters in a servants' room, with two cots. Then, as a special concession, the proPRIMIrTIViTnE prietor offered her a cot in a room with his wife, in ACCOMMODITIONS AT CAGUASS order that the rest of us might all sleep on the stone floor of the little room. One of our men was sick with malarial fever contracted in Ponce and it seemed imperative that better accommodations be found. Four hours of daylight remained and we decided that the flesh-pots of the capital, twenty-six miles away, would suit us all better, if we could reach them. It was a delicate matter to suggest such a thing as preceding the commanding general through the enemy's country into the enemy's capital. It was delegated to me to broach the subject, with a stipulation that if by so doing I lost favor with General Brooke, thereby destroying my sources of information, my colleagues would divide with me everything that came to them, so that my work would not suffer thereby. Before the choice was made I attempted to convince them that any one could execute such an errand better than myself, but as each one took exactly the same position it was finally decided that I should offer myself for a victim to possible military displeasure. It was indeed suggested that the discomforts which Mrs. White would undergo should be used as an argument with General Brooke, but that was the one argument impossible for me to use. It was Mrs. White's pride throughout all of her experiences, alike in Cuba and Puerto Rico, that no one had ever been able to suggest that she was a handicap in any undertaking. She took the difficulties with the same spirit that others took them, recognizing the unusual privilege she had to witness the operations of war. She would have resented promptly the use of her presence as an argument why special privilege should be granted. As a matter of fact, we realized quite well that TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 389 to offer such a plea might properly draw the query from General l'Iooke why she was there at all, if she was to cumber the movements of himself and the correspondents. I found the commanding general dining with his staff and put the question bluntly to him, if it would be permissible, now that we had passed the enemy's advance line and were within their territory, for the newspaper contingent to precede him on the T o * i 4-i 4- i 4^ f f A COURTESY FROM way. I explained that no accommodations for all of COURTES MMANO us were available in town, even of the most primitive NG GENERAL. sort, and that Mr. Millard's sickness demanded better shelter than we could find. We do not forget his courtesy in the reply. Without hesitation he said, "By all means go to where you can be most comfortable. If you can get horses on such short notice, go ahead until you find a place where you can get proper shelter. I don't want you to undergo any more discomfort than is necessary, after all you have seen in the Santiago campaign." I bolted down stairs to the little group of correspondents waiting anxiously for the verdict. The news was reassuring. In ten minutes we had our drivers searching for horses and by four o'clock our carriages were loaded again and we were starting on the last stage of the journey. We knew, if General Brooke did not, that the phraseology of his permission meant that we must reach the capital that night, for there was no place which would serve for shelter until we reached the city. The journey began hopefully enough, with a five-mile dash through the cane-fields. The military road was perfect here, as it had been throughout the earlier portion of the trip. Then we came into a country of hills and my team began to fag in spite of the energies of the driver. It was evident that they had not been fresh when we started. We had been leading the procession of three carriages until that time. This position was chosen for me by my companions, because no one knew what sort of a reception we might meet from the Spanish soldiery along the road, and the others of the party had no knowledge of the Spanish language. The threat of early darkness began to trouble us and it was evident that our team could not take us into the capital in many hours. 390 TRA,4 TEL IN PUERTO RICO. \We drew to (one side of the road an(l to(ld t:he oth(rs to go( a heal. They were reluctant to leave us thus, abandoned near nightfall in tIhe heart of the enemy's country, but there was no 1elp A S(OMEWHAT for it. We waved good-by to themi and saw tlhel( IONESOMEl EXl'EIENCEE disappear down the road anlong the trees. Our progress continued slowly for several mniles fartller, durinii which we did not see a single soldier. Then at the top of a long hill, in spite of our protests, the driver lashed his horses into a run and we went careening down the slope. At the bottom was the longest briidge in Puerto Rico, a stone-arched structure perhaps 3()0 feet in lengtil, spalnning a stream which wandered through the valley nearly a 1hlmdred feet below. This splendid piece of masonry, the most difficult of all the military road, was built -many years ago and remains in p)erfectt condition. In the niddle of the bridge the team came to a dead halt;, unable to stagger another step. "Muy malado, muy inferilo," said the driver, shrugging his shollders, "very bad, very sick." lie took the harness off the horses, led them to the end of the bridge, opened a convenient gate that led into the neighboring field and turned them out to graze. We sat on the rail of the bridge and looked into the stream below. After awhile a little boy came along and the driver g1ave him some instructions, which started him up the road in the direction we had been traveling. More time passed and we saw two Spanish soldiers coming toward us on the road. They came to the middle of the bridge and halted to question us. One was a corporal, the other a THE ENEMY private. They were fine, big fellows, armed with PROVES TO BE HARMLESS. Mausers, and apparently fine soldiers. They questioned us closely, extracting no information whatever, for we assumed to be ignorant of a single word of Spanish. We shrugged our shoulders, smiled, looked pleasant and puzzled, but could answer nothing. The driver was evidently scared. The corporal wanted to know who we were, why we were there, and where we were going. He wanted to know when the American general was coming. We were unable to tell him anything. Finally, Mrs. White noticed that the soldier had a bandage around TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 391 his right hand and that his hand was badly swollen. She motioned a question and he unwrapped it, showing a very bad bayonet wound. It was dressed with some green leaves and no other attention had been given it. Mrs. White sought her modest stock of simple relned(lies, dressed the wound with witch hazel, bound it in clean linen, and gasve him the remaining portion of the liniment. There was no fulrther trfouble. They bowed their thanks, expressed their gratitude with tlie utmost politeness and went on their way. Strangely enough, we heard of this little incident afterward in San Juan. It was circulated there as a subject of interest for gossip among the Spanish forces, and we were told that the soldiers were exceedingly grateful, saying that no Spanish woman would have done for them what the American did. After a wait of two hours on this lonesome bridge, our driver declared his horses sufficiently recovered to continue. We made slow progress through the dusk, until at last a mile or two before reaching Rio Piedras the youngster who hlad gone ahead long before met us with a fresh team of horses. To ex- AT LAST A TEAM OF change required but a few moments. The exhausted FRH HORSES FRESH HORSES. team, according to the practice of drivers, was turned into the adjacent field to graze until their master should pick them up on his return journey a day or two later. It was but a short drive then to Rio Piedras. We stopped at a little hotel to inquire if our companions had gone on to the capital, and, finding no word left for us, we continued toward our destination. The road was level nearly all the way, so that, although darkness had fallen, there was no cessation of our speed. The nine miles were covered very rapidly and it was only nine o'clock when we clattered along the paved streets of the city in a sudden shower of rain and drew up at the door of Hotel Inglaterra. Prompt inquiry at the hotel office developed two important facts: dinner was not ended and our friends had reserved a room for us. It was the end of our journey across Puerto Rico. CHAPTER XXVI. THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. Similar Agricultural Conditions in All Our Newly Annexed Islands-The Institution of the Sugar "Central"-A Scotchman in Puerto Rico-Heavy Investments by London Financiers-How the "Central" Deals with Each Farmer-Scientific Sugar Cultivation as Contrasted with More Primitive Methods-Plantation Sugar Mills of the West Indies-The Home of a Sugar Planter —Wages of Unskilled Laborers in Puerto Rico-How the Laborers Live and Work. T MAY simplify the problems of colonial government for the United States to some extent, that all of our experiiments are to be tried in island( groups of sinmilar climnate and agricultural conditions and approximately the samne latitude. What one learns about sugar or coffee or tobacco or minor agricultural products of the tropics in one island, mlay therefore apply with almost equal accuracy to the others, except as Inodifield by peculiar local conditions which must be noted in their proper place. Consequently, altholug this chapter relates specifically to the cultivation of cane sugar in Puerto Rico, most of the essential facts may be transferred to apply to the same industry in Cuba and the Hawaiian islands, in each of which the cultivation of sugar is the principal industry, as it is in Puerto Rico, and even the Philippines, where the same industry is by no means a minor one. In the chapters on agriculture in the Philippine islands, already I have called attention to the matter following in these pages, and again in the chapter on the same industry in Cuba and the Hawaiian islands, I shall refer back to this chapter for detailed information upon the cultivation and marketing of cane sugar. In the modern system of sugar cultivation in this island, where that is the greatest of crops, the "central," has been an important factor, and is be'coming more important all the time. It is the great 392 —_I m cb r: c-r, 11 I Is" O I" ; CD cS ~ ~i"3" a, ri I crrl~ n d, ii i "-"3 c: O LI: r, rr -~- CJR ~ m r *-L( 6wlCPB"if alll m ',9"ie.,1.(~~ rl c rrT; P?j D ~;;L '-"~ p " BJ P: M ~I I CE-ii3 i~?~ —I O rt;=:r:ilS f ux ii -;t:~ rrt e" c-3 'iJ r M:-i * ---i 1~ -~i r rr r.:: F 5~ il~~r~~rr;:';s;"k;i(Ft: -~Da~ -~;?: -~ 1~"C""3""-`E"t~- J =Lr i 1'""~""""""""""""~""14:BK116'~i41 tl, i -- r ieil iig BI~rJiLr I --- —:i r~ c. -3 Irm ; ill i:I_ ~-~ 0 1. ~cc c i i;:j tN~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE. AN JUAN DE PUERTO RICO Int, a- ~ft,: — m~ir,-n6 i s h ap ilg e E alc -' aly c'm lCpi: IV THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 39 3 ( 9 05 mill for grvildinuin canI(, ownved by a colicern which makes that function hsspecialty, relieving the gro)wer from the necessity of gindiniiig his (oNfl1 prodluct. P1repa(.redl for the work of a whole re'ioninseadof a single planiat ion, it, is po0ssi1ble for 4,E'RALS1 FOR (d{1INDING iitch 'an institution to take adlvantage of every hn- SU(;AR-CANE. p~roveineit in miachine~ry and equipj the mill with the most perfect applliances. Scienitists can ber elnployedi to study for improved nletllodls of extr-acting the juice fromi the cane with gYrea test rqidt arid niost compIJletely, arid then of brinlrino" it into the best (Ofldit ion for the various processes thiat l)1e((Ne slhipment to the refineries. Wh~ere the central has been introdluced, it- hias won favor an1d. profit for all concerned. Whereitsknwtsfedseeo more nee(d. of argumnent for it than does the owner of a flour mill in our wheat reg'ionls. I hiave haid the I)Ieasllre, of an acquaintance withi Mr. W. ~S. Mcarr o)f Puerto R1'ico), a Scotchiman who has 1)een for a few years the g-eneral manager11 of thie Central die Ca novanas, the largest sugar factory in tfie island. It is not far fromt Carolhin, some twienty miles east of the cap~it~al, on the north side, of the island, and in one1 of the best, Sugar countries of Puerto R.ico. Mr. M.arr has been g-oodl enough to grive me sMIne of the essentialI facts about that enterprise and the central as a ge(neral prop~osition, which will make, imp~ortant information for anyone, who looks towardl sugar investmnents. here. His information, with lthat of other specialists in sugrar whomn I have questioned, is of the highiest authiority on the local conditions to be met in this island. The Central de Clanovanas is owned by the Colonial Sugar coinpaniy of Londlon, or, rather, by an inner corporation made up of inemnhers, of that great concern. The Colonial com-pany 'is kno)wn throug-hout thie sugvar islands of the West THlE LO0N'DON In t7N ~~~~~~~COLONIAL In1dies, large and smal11 alike, as well as in Demnerara COMPANY. or British Guiana. Its interests, sweep in a great circethrmyliCub Santo Domuincyo Puerto 11ico, the Windward and -Leeward islands, all the way to Trinidad and then into the continental Cane fields of South Ainerica. It was not to be expected that it would `1 11glect such a rich openingr as Puerto Rico Th~e Central dle Canova~nas was built by the investment of local 396 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. capital, stimulated by the energy of some Puertoriquenans who had lived in the United States, and by some energetic Americans who had moved to this island. The investment was a large one and the profits were not well husbanded in the beginning, so that the time came when a debt had to be met and the Colonial company took the property into its own care for administration. The equity of the original owners is not wiped out, but it is not in their hands at present, the English company having a sufficient amount of the stock to control it. The capacity of grinding in such a mill is about twenty-five tons of cane an hour, or, more specifically, the product of 3,500 acres. Up to the present time, the acreage of the plantations adjacent to the mill, which depend upon it for their grinding, is but 2,000, so that the mill has not had to run to its full capacity except at times of special haste. A considerable increase in the acreage was expected within the last two years, but the unusually high price of cattle intervened to stop it. A large amount of pasture land which was expected to be turned into cane fields, became more valuable in its present form, and so was not planted to sugar cane. If shifting values change this condition or new areas are opened to cultivation in the neighborhood of the central, undoubtedly it will have all the work to do that it can accomplish. The company buys the sugar cane outright, paying for it on the fifteenth and thirtieth of each month according to the average price of sugar in the San Juan market for the fifteen days preceding. The farmer hauls his cane to the door of the central, has it weighed, and on the day of payment gets his money without any further concern. Almost all authorities in Puerto Rico agree that all interests are served by the separation of grinding from the growing of the crop. The farmer gets more for his cane when he sells it SPECIALIZING to the central than he would if he ground it himself. MAKES PROFIT. By its improved methods and perfected machinery, the central gets so much more out of the cane that it is able to pay the farmer more than he would get otherwise, and still make a large profit for its own stockholders, when properly administered and handling such large quantities of cane. Centralization proves its economy here as it does in industries at home. Further THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 397 more, the farmer can raise more cane upon a given acreage when his attention is concentrated on that one branch of the industry than he can when diverted first to the running of a small mill for the grinding of his own crop and then to the marketing of it to best advantage. Scientific Sugar Cultivation. In the whole island there are but four or five centrals of any consequence, that of Canovanas being much the largest and best equipped. In it are employed the best sugar experts to be obtained, ile chemists being men of highest training and education, to say nothinog of salaries. Their studies are productive of constant improvement and increase of sugar obtained from a given amount of cane. Their tests are all absolute, by chemical rule and formula, no "rule of thumb" being countenanced. In this field of labor here, no less than in Hawaii and Cuba, many a young American just from the universities will find an opportunity within the next few years to prove that he is a practical chemist, and, if he becomes a sugar expert, to earn a large salary. Such centrals are going to multiply rapidly. On the hundreds of plantations where sugar mills are run for the grinding of their own crop, and even in some of the smaller centrals, one does not find such a scientific system of manipulation. As Mr. Marr puts it, "The foreman watches EXTRACTING THE JUICE FROMIv the color and the flow and the crystallization till SUGAR-CANE. things seem right, and then the next process is begun. Our results show that where scientifically correct methods are employed, the product is enough larger and enough better to pay well. It is this condition that will make plantation mills obsolete and drive the grinding into the centrals when the latter are in every community where sugar is raised." In the Central de Canovanas, all the employes and hands are Puertoriquenans except the chief engineer, who is a Scotchman. The company owns and operates about twenty miles of railway, the lines radiating from the factory into the adjacent plantations, for the purpose of hauling the cane to be ground. The tracks wander in and out among the cane fields just as they do in the great Ewa plantation near 398 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUI'RT7() RICO. Pearl Harbor in the Hawaiian islands, and thes scene is lch tiche same. But here in Puerto Rico all the locomotives are run by native engineers and firemen, as is the case on the passenger railways of the island. They seem quite competent to do the work, have few accidents, and under the supervision of the chief engineer are able to repair their loco. motives almost as handily as an American. In going about the island, one finds the sugar imills of the plantations everywhere in sight. Usually they stand with the other houses and sheds of the little realm of the sugar baron, a THE HOME few hundred yards from the highway, the lane leadOF A SUGAR BARON. ing to them winding through a field of waving cane, and ending in a grove of royal palms or poinlciana or some other tropic tree. From the field or factory or somen place comes a whiff of sweetness to the nostrils that reminds one of the breeze fromn a candy factory. The air is impregnated with sugar. The big brick chimney of the mill towers above the trees and roofs, not as picturesque as the old windmlills that serve a similar purpose in Blarbados and the other islands of the Caribbees, but perhaps more utilitarian. The little houses of the plantation hands are at a distance from the great house of the magnate, usually at the other side of the factory. The big houses have been quiet of late. Those of them owned by Spanish citizens, or many of them, have been empty while their owners were seeking pleasure in San Sebastian or some other Spanish resort, in preference to a possible blockade with discomforts in Puerto Rico. They left in ship-loads during the few months just prior to the war. But the places are there, many of them great, rambling structures of Spanish architecture, modified by island conditions, broad verandahs all about, low roofed, with tiles of red to keep the house cool and vines over all. These houses are not barren of comfort. They are lightly furnished as they should be, but easy rockers abound, hammocks are there, and a piano is sure to be found. In front of the house the shade oomes from the arbol flamboyant, the royal palm, the cocoanut palm, or any one of half a dozen almost as beautiful. In the house yard are bananas, cocoanuts, oranges, limes, pineapples, mangoes, and a dozen other fruits whose names would be strange, while the kitchen garden will raise delicious vegetables and add melons to the list of fruits. THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 399 With a winter climate as perfect as could be imagined, and a summer far pleasanter than that of our northern prairie States, surely one could imagine things less pleasant than to be a sugar baron in Puerto Rico. Wages of the unskilled laborers employed in the canefields of Puerto Rico-unskilled at any rate except for the knack of handling the machete and doing the simple work of the fieldhave been from 50 to 63 centavos a day, varying with WAGES RO THE FARM the demand for labor, the strength of the laborer and LABORERS. the location of the plantation. Mr. Marr, the Scotch manager of the Central de Canovanas, tells me that wages never have fluctuated with the fluctuations of the rate of foreign exchange, nor has the manner of living practiced on the plantations varied from the same cause. The exception to this has been in the cost of rice, which is a staple food of the laborers and largely imported. As exchange became hiTher, the price of rice rose and the ability of the laborer to purchase it diminished. Just about enough corn is raised for the local demands, some years producing enough for export to Cuba. This staple food therefore has fluctuated but little. The cotton goods, from which the plantation laborers make their clothes, have to be imported and vary slightly in cost with the fluctuations of exchange. But they do not wear many clothes, and if cotton becomes too expensive, it is not a great hardship in this climate for these people to economize rigidly in its use. The regular wage-day on the plantations is at the end of the week, but laborers are permitted to draw their earnings daily if they choose. They are improvident in the extreme, and often have to obtain advance orders on the stores when they come to work in the morning, in order to get food for the same day's breakfast, breakfast meaning here, as in other Spanish countries, the meal just before midday. The early cup of coffee answers till that time. The work day is only seven or eight hours long, and, measured by the SHORT HOURS AND energy of the man, the demands of his house and CHEAP LABOR. table and the faithfulness with which he skips a day whenever one of the multitudinous holidays and church days gives him a chance, the rate of wages is probably enough. "Cheap labor" really 400 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. is not cheap according to its productiveness, any more than it is in other countries where similar conditions exist, Mexico for instance. Mr. Marr has some ideas on the local labor problem which may sound strange at home. "The Puertoriquenans could make more money," he says, "if the whole family would work in the field. That is the practice in the English islands of the West Indies, among negro and coolie labor alike. Father and mother and son and daughter work side by side on the plantations. But here the women will hardly go into the fields at all. A laborer's wife does hardly anything but her household duties, and she teaches her daughter the same thing, and even the sons do not go to work till they are almost grown. As a rule, HOW PLANTATION the blacker the man, the better the laborer. This is LABORERS LIVE. true except as to the English negroes who are here, from Demerara and the Caribbees, they being just about the worst labor we have. But there is no doubt that plantation labor here needs the black infusion in it to be effective. What the fact would be if we had to deal with white labor of some other race than Spanish, I am unable to say, for there are none such here. But we don't care for much white Spanish blood in our hands." Plantation laborers on the sugar estates do not have barracks or houses furnished them on the place, but live wherever they like. Sometimes the owner of the estate sets aside a bit of land where the laborer may build a house and plant a -little garden patch. The house always lTelongs to the hand, however, even though he may vacate it and move to the next plantation. Such titles are not valuable enough to worry about, as the houses under such circumstances are apt to be but a frame of poles with a thatch and walls of wattle. When a man builds a better house on a sugar estate, he is considered one of the faithful retainers, and a fixture. CHAPTER XXVII. LITERATURE, TIE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. Book Stores and Publishing Houses of Puerto Rico-Spanish Translations of American Novels-Local Production of Literature by Island Authors-The Public Library of San Juan-What a Geographer of Puerto Rico Thinks of His Island and His Fellow-Citizens-The Theaters of Ponce and San Juan-American Enterprise Not Far Behind the American Army-"Uncle Tom's Cabin" in Spanish-The Hotels of Puerto Rico-The Rooms and the Food-Two Meals a DaySpanish Cooking and Island Markets-Inns in the Country Villages-The Tourist Resort of Coamo Banos. T HE printing offices and book shops of Puerto Rico rather surprised me by their excellence, after I had been disappointed in the newspapers. Senor Otero of Ponce apologized for his meager stock of books in English, with the explanation that the officers and men of the American army had bought almost everything he had. But he was the agent for the New York house of the Appletons, he continued, and his stock would be replenished by the first steamer. As it was, several well-known books were on the shelves, and if one wanted to read Spanish the selection was a large one. I found a very good edition of "El Prisionero de Zenda," by "Antonio" Hope, and it was in this same Bazar Otero that Richard Harding Davis and Stephen Crane were confronted upon their arrival with posters advertising "Soldiers of Fortune" and "The Red Badge of Courage." Book Shops of San Juan. In San Juan, the capital, there are at least three or four book and stationery stores of note which are more than creditable to the place. They are connected with printing and publishing concerns in most cases. They carry stocks of imported goods from Madrid, Barcelona and Paris, most of the books being in Spanish or French. All of 401 402 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. the classics of Spain and France are carried in both languages and the modern French novel occupies a prominent place on the shelves. The novels of lingo and Dumas are very popular in FRENCH NOVELS the island. Few books in Italian are sold, but tle ARE POPULAR. Italian classics are carried in Spanish and in French translations. Beautiful editions of the "I)ivina Colnmedia" of Dante were for sale in either language, but the translations were in prose instead of verse. No American poets appeared in the stores, but Byron's popularity was evidenced by the imultitude of his works on sale. "Don Juan" seemed to be the favorite, partly, no doubt, because of its Spanish subject and partly because of its literary pulgency-a favorite quality among Spanish-Americans as amlong the Spanish themselves. The poem suffered, however, like that of I)ante, by not having the metrical translation, and it is hard to understand its attractions in this form. German literature was confined to the works of Schiller and Goethe and the booksellers said that not many of those were sold. Of course the larger part of the stock on the book shelves is made up of the work of Spanish writers, classic and modern. The people read Cervantes with as much avidity as if he were satirizing the faults of others instead of their own. Local production of literature has taken utilitarian forms in most part, although there has been some modest fiction and a little creditable verse written. Historical monographs relating to the island are numerous and political pamphlets of various sorts even exceed themi in number. The historian of Puerto Rico, in the future, will find Imuch valuable matter in the little books that have issued from obscure presses throughout the island. The public library of San Juan has a collection which will be of value to many a student. HISTORICAL It contains rare works on old Spanish voyages, early LIBRARY OF SAN JUAN. maps of the West Indies, showing the progress of discovery, manuscripts and documents that will gladden the heart of bookmen, and old plates and engravings of equal interest. Some of these things may have decayed from inattention, but not from careless use, for they have been studied but little. The book shops and LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE 1-i0 TELS. 403 the private libraries, like the public library of San Juan, may be depended upon to repay research. Among the books written and published in Puerto Rico, the text books used in the island schools are notable. Many of these-all, in fact, of the primary and intiertlmedliate grades-are local prodluctions. One of that sort is before me:as I write, "Elementos de (CosmlograI;phia y (leographia Particular de la Isla dte Iuerto R1Lico." It was written by Felipe Janer y Soler, who is a bachelor of arts and an tupIper professor in the schools, so the title page explains. This elition, the seconl, was printed in San Juan in 18))0, the work having been decreed a text book for the schools of the province by a governmental decree seven years earlier. The book gained a medal at the Paris exposition of 1889. This little book of less than a hundred pages, about the size of an American primer, contains some excellent information about the island as well as some very entertaining( things. Its first part is devoted to geometrical definitions, "indispensable for the study of cosmography." Then comes the part devoted to definitions in astronomy, which gives almost as mnuch attention to the heavens as the rest of the book does to the earth. Finally, after several pages devoted to general geographical definitions and the grand divisions of the subject, there cones an excellent little map of Puerto Rico and the portions of the work devoted to the island itself. We are informed that Puerto Rico was discovered by "the cele brated Genoese mariner, Don Cristobal Colon, aided by their Catholic majesties," that it was conquered by Don Juan Ponce de Leon in 1508, who in the next year foundedt LOCAL OPINIONS OF the first town under the name of Caparra, and that PUERTO RICO. the island belongs to Spain, "to whom it owes its discovery, its conquest, its wealth and its civilization." The natural beauties of the island, and the curiosities which tourists ought to see are named, including the caves of Aguas Buenas, the great cavern of Pajita in Lares, that of Cialese, not far from the capital, "the cave of the dead" near Utuado, the cascade of Santa Olalla, near Bayamon, one called "the leap of the Cacique" near Guanica and a natural foun 404 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. tain near Aguadilla. The geographer declares that the climate of Puerto Rlico is very salubrious, although hot, like other intertropical countries, but that Adjuntas, Aibonito, Cayey, Utuado, Lares and the other mountain towns have a cooler temperature. lie credits the island with but two seasons-the dry, during which the heat is greatest and resultilng sickness is most likely to occur, and the rainy seasol, when the great tropical storms occur at times. The hottest montlhs are those from June to September, inclusive, and the rainy season is from August to December inclusive. The author omits to place the other months. The prevailing winds, except from November to January, are from the north, consequently bringing cool, fresh air fromn the north Atlantic ocean. It is concerning the aspect of the island and the people that the geographer becomes eloquent. Of the former he says: "The aspect of the island is the most beautiful which can be PUERTO RICO offered by nature; its fertile and exuberant fields, A BEAUTIFUL ISLE. its beautiful sky, the multitude of rivers which flow through all parts, the great numbers of gay-plumaged birds which inhabit its wooded hills, and its climate, modified by the sea-breezes, give to our isle a magnificent appearance, presenting to us picturesque vistas and unrivaled landscapes." "What is the character of the Puertoriquenan?" asks the writer, then proceeding to answer his own question. "His manner is affable and expansive. HTis complexion usually is slightly pale, his countenance agreeable, his carriage erect and his manner dignified and graceful. The people of Puerto Rico are honest, brave and hospitable. Their constitution, like that of most inhabitants of hot countries, is rather frail and inclined to sickness, although there are many individuals, particularly those who devote thiemselves to manual labor, whose physique is strong, agile and robust." The little book contains detailed accounts of the physical characteristics of the island, the mountains, lakes and rivers, the crops, the cities and all other details. It has tables of distance, descriptions of the roads and railways, and much other information which the children in the island schools need to know. Altogether it is a right encouraging sign to see as good a text book as this is produced locally t, LITERA.TURE, TIHE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 405 in an island which we are likely to think by no means equal to such things. I have been impressed by the excellent work in lithograpihy, done by certain engraving houses in San Juan. Those houses and one in Mayaguez lhave( made a specialty of map work and their maps of P'lerto Rico are by all means the best that can be obtained. The worllllanship is good in every detail and the maps would do no discredit to the best map mlakers in the United States, in spite of the fact that their style of lettering, with some other points of difference, makes themi seem peculiar. If there is merit in the old saw that printing is "the art preservative of all arts," it is an excellent thing to see the printers' craft with its kindred branches flourishing in Puerto lico. Places of worship and places of amusement alike in Puerto Rico have been less frequented of late than might have been expected. In Havana last year, it was not strange to find that the people did not care to go much into public, when ANLCHURTERS nearly every one was mourning the loss of some EMPTY. friend in the insurgent army. But Puerto Rico has not suffered in the same way as Cuba and I could not overcome a surprise to find churches and theaters alike almost empty. In Ponce the opera house is an excellent one, built with some attention to classic architecture, with a fine Greek portico in front and constructed of masonry throughout. Within, the audience room is arranged much after the fashion of our own theaters, except that a greater part of the space is given up to boxes and stalls. The seating arrancgements are good, as are also the acoustic properties. I judge the house to seat about 1,200 persons. The balcony connects directly witll the upper rooms of the leading club-house of the city, so that members have a private entrance to the theater and a promenade accessible to them for refreshments between the acts, removed from the rest of the audience. The stage is well equipped with fairly modern scenery and accessories so that no American company journeying there would suffer for accommodations. The first time I went into the theater was in the afternoon, my errand being to secure seats for the evening entertainment. The performance was to be that of a troupe of Japanese jugglers and balancers, 406 LITERATURKE, 'THE DRI,4AA, 4AND TIlE HOTELS. with dancing and other features. Inasmuch as this was the first company of any sort to appear in the theater for nearly two years, except some amateurs of a local organization, it seemed that the house would be full and I wanted to see a genuine audience of the people of Ponce. Furthermore, the town was full of American officers who were likely to welcome the opportunity for a little diversion and would help the crowd in size. At the door I asked the price of seats for the evening. The man at the door looked a trifle puzzled at the question and I repeated it. "Oh, you want tickets," he said. "I don't speak Spanish. IIey, Billy, come here." And when "Billy" came, it developed that the proprietors of the company were Americans, taking the TRIALS OF first opportunity to play a date in the newly acquired AN AMERICAN TROUPE. territory. They knew Clark street in Chicago and their Japs had played "the IHopkins circuit" and the "Olympic" more than once. The trip was not proving a profitable one. They had been in the tropics for several months, traveling as far south as British Guiana and covering all the Windward and Leeward islands. Now, on the homeward bound journey, they were trying the island of Puerto Rico during the American occupation and had hopes of reaching Cuba before they returned home. "Only five of these 'manana' dollars for a box that will hold six people," wailed "Billy," "and then we don't seem to be selling many tickets." A Theater Audience in Ponce. That night there may have been a dozen Americans in the parquet and a hundred people of the island. In the balcony the number was less. In the gallery above there was a crowd of delighted, noisy men, seeing wonders of which they had never dreamed. The tricks of the Japanese needed no translation to be intelligible, so that everything was encored to the limit, including those feats which include the releasing of the American flags from the ceiling of the theater. Nevertheless there was no money in that sort of business, and after a "run" of a few nights in the theater the company secured a big tent and began a tent-show down the road toward the Playa. LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THIE HOTELS. 407 San Juan, the capital, has a very good opera house facing the plaza of Columbus. The night after I reached the city, the house was well filled to see a one-man performance in imitation of the work of the Italian Fr^goli, with quick changes of costume and an accompanying drama. Except for this, there was no other performance while I was in the city. There was a hope, however, that a conipany advertising in Ponce might be induced to extend its journey to the capital. The play they were offering was advertised as "El Gran Drama Americano, La Cabana de Tio Tom," LA CABANA )DE and as I had seen it a year before in Key West, per- TIO TOM." formed by an amateur troupe of negroes, under the more familiar name of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," with a "Little Eva" who was as black as coal and whose hair was as kinky as wool, I cherished a tender memory of the play and regretted not to see it in Spanish. Most of the foreign entertainments reaching Puerto Rico are those on their way to Havana and Mexico from Europe. They stop over one boat and usually do pretty good business in the capital. Fregoli has made that trip, and several well-known Spanish and Italian opera companies. Loie Fuller has danced there and I believe Patti once sang in this same theater. Hotel Life in Puerto Rico. Hotels of Puerto Rico, like olives, must be classed as an acquired taste. They are all right after one learns to like them, but until that time they are far from enticing and the process of acquiring the taste is for some people an impossible undertaking. With few exceptions they are all alike, barring minor differences of little consequence. In Ponce, the principal hotel at the time of the American occupation was the Frances, a name which one finds applied to the most pretentious hotel in most towns of the island. It is intended to indicate traditional French excellence of cooking, but, like the Iotel du Commerce of St. Thomas, the best thing about it is the name. The landlady of the Hotel Frances, Ponce, was a bustling little Frenchwoman, with too much work for her own strength and time and a husband who was as much of a superfluity about the house as 408 LITERATURE, TIE DRAMA, AND TlE H OTELS. is usual in such cases. When the business began to multiply beyond all calculations, with the influx of Americans, Madame became more distracted than ever. She kept no books, or none HOTEL CONDITIONS that were of any service in settling amounts, apparIN PONCE. ently depending on the honesty of each guest when he departed, to remember how long he had been a lodger, and to inform her of that essential fact. The cafe was crowded at meal time, until Madame was compelled to take thel great salon of an adjoining house and turn it into a dining-room. For guest rooms there was no improvement she could make. The house was boxed inl between the walls of the two adjoining residences and every room but two or three was an inner clamber, without window to the street. This in a tropical climate is almost intolerable and( no one, however able to adapt himself to strange circumstances, could pretend to be satisfied with it. Poor ventilation, inadequate bathing facilities and( extreme heat form a difficult combination to face with equanimity. The meals served by Madame, like those in almost every hotel of the island, consisted mostly of meat. The beef of Puerto Rico is tough by nature, and, cooked in a way to intensify its toughness, it becomes by no means palatable. Pork, mutton and veal were little better and it was to chicken that we had to turn for relief. As for vegetables, they were seldom served. It seems that potatoes cannot be grown in the island and few are imported. At any rate we did not see potatoes served at meals half a dozen times in all the weeks we were in the island. In the market places we used to see fresh, green vegetables of many sorts, including tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, lettuce, radishes, beans and others strange to our sight, but they never reached tlhe table of the hotels throughout the island. Instead, MEAT FOR EERY a dinner of seven or eight kinds of meat would be DINNER SERVICE. offered, with soup and fish, the latter usually impossible because of the high seasoning of rancid oil. For dessert there came no sweetmeats or pudding or custards of any traditionally dainty French sort, nor even fruit except rarely, but always and regularly, twice or even three times a day, the ever-present guava paste with cheese of goats' milk. I yield to few in my relish of that dish, but even I must confess to a sense of growing monotony LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 409 in eating it twice a day, at luncheon and dinner, every day for several weeks. As is the custom in most countries other than our own, the early morning meal as offered to guests of the hotel, was not a real breakfast, but merely coffee. Now, that does not mean, as it does in other countries, coffee and rolls, or coffee and boiled eggs, or coffee and toast and bacon, but actually only a cup of black coffee or coffee and hot milk. It is true that the American visitors, after an effort, established the precedent that they could have boiled eggs and bread and even sometimes a banana, but the innovation was not approved by the people of Puerto Rico, who looked on and marveled that one could eat so heartily at such a time of day. After these strange conditions of trade had burdened Madame for a few weeks, she began to confide in a few of her best customers that she had the intention of improving things. Then she got out a roll of architects' drawings and showed elevations, perspectives, plans and specifications for a handsome new hotel. There was a tract of land, she explained, which she had owned for some time, and on which she wished to erect a handsome, modern hotel building, after her own ideas. These were not new plans, but she had them in readiness pending the time when she could carry them into effect. It was then that we began to feel sorry for Madame. She was a nice little woman, but she could not run a hotel that would suit Americans. It was a certainty that she would put all her money into the wrong kind of a building, expecting a monopoly MADAME OF PONCE of the rush business that was crowding her rooms M IHS E and her coffers then, and when it was all done and ASPIRATIONS. the hotel opened, some American who knows how to run a hotel to suit Americans would come to Ponce and take all the business with a new place of his own. Madame would do better to make hay with the old hotel while this year's sun is shining, and then stick to the sort of local trade among local travelers that had been hers before the Americans came. Another hotel opened in Ponce while I was there, to catch the trade of the American rush, naming itself Hotel Washington. There was quite enough business for it and all the others in the city, so they all made money as they had never done before. 410 LITERTURE, TIE DR.AMA, AND TIE HOTELS. In (11Uayvailllia. tlreie WTere tlire hotels of about equal merit, thll( Frances and t lhe Esmller(alda in one-story buildings, and the third, -tl1 name of whllichl escape ls Im(e, on tli second floor of a business bulllilin. Until the American occup'ltion lthey illust hlave been more1' thian adlequate to tlie lenllellltds of local travel, but1 when 1the American occup)'ation reachled tlie hotels tlhey became lmore thtal fill. Tlleret, lhowver, in Ilotel FI'ran(ces, we found more variety5 of foodl tllan in P'oce. Veetables appeared on tle table a little o(ftenelr andll evenl one or two novelties inl tlhe way. of local island (dishes. Ilesi(les tlhat, we lad e(stablislled t-lle habit of catering for ourselves to somle extent, for food less Iheatinig in a t rolica('l miidsimiul'ter, Iand \were patro(iziing FINE IMELONS the markets. Melons were rip, though one woul IN PUER1TO RICO. ni1t discover tlie fact int tlie hotels, and( tlhey becamel a stapIle. The m(1 elolis of l'l(uerto K) ico are a sort of canteloupe, l;rger 1111111 o Allur mericlan nut lmeg melon, but not 1as large as 1he yellow calNte(lolupe. rl ey re lt (lelicalte in flIavor, swe-t, film, and a great tIreasure' in tlle Iroplic's, especially in (tl uayam.la and from llhere to San Juan, w\lile no ice can be lhad. On the road from)n (1uayama to tlie cal)ital, over tlie splendid military highway, one passes tlhe towns of Cayey, C(aguas and l'io Piedras, besides some smaller villavges. Tlie three named are tlie only ones where accom(o(lationls for travelers can be had and tlhey ar1e mneager in quantifit a 11 quIlity. Not more N ltan three or four rooms can lbe found at Ilie (lispl)(sal of tlie casual traveler ill any one o)f tho()se pla(ces. Th1e comlfolrts tlhey provide are iaml)le for tlhose whno areI not (exacting and wlIo ]fave work(ed up to them gra dually, but they wrould s,,(e very )pimitive to one coming directly from a modern hotel in tlle United States. San Juan, the capital, is better provided than any other city in tle island, with hotel accommodatlions. The Inglaterra, like the Ilotel of tlie same name in Ilavan, is the leading house, but there are otllers sufficiently comfortable. Te Inglaterra occupies the HOTEL IN(FiATERRt, SAN IJUtN se(ond anI d third floors of a three-story building iln TER.RA, SAN JUAN D)E PUERTO RICO. one of the principal streets, withl its (.coffee-room (i the street floor. On the next foor tare tlle littli office, the parlor and about two-thirds of the guest ro(oms. More thl GOVERNMENT OFFICES, SAN JUAN DE PUERTO RICO T thebuidn whci lthe treasury department of the Spansh ony nade iS he ad iaters t exten s ba a long tan e he pIaza Yhiit s is ighted byeeteti Th building f ire s ten it. ha, il th0 one beond is the judicy bilding I I LITEIRATUIRE, THE DRNAMA, AND THIE HOTELLS. 413 half of these open into the sqiare parlor, like it having no winlows to the outer air. The parlor, however, is virtually a rotunda, extending to the roof with a great sky-lilght and ventilators above. On the third floor the dining-r omn o(cupies the east side of the house, with a beautiful outlook over ocecan and harbor. A gallery encircles the parlorrotunda at this level and the most desirable guest cllambers are on this floor, extending from gallery to the outer wall, with windows and private balconies overlooking the harbor. If one is accustomedl to the Spanish style of cooking and serving food, the meals at the Inglaterra are excellent. The table is amply provided, vegetables and fruits forming a nuch larger part of the bill of fare than in any other hotel in the island. There is European style at the meals, which is not true of any other hotel in Puerto Rico. People dress for dinner, there are flowers and silver and whlite linen, and, altogether, no one need complain of life there unless the detail of Spanish cooking inakes it impossible to him. There is one other hotel on the island which is entitled to be named. It is tite summnner and winter resort of the Cotno baths, a place to which the people of Spain and South America have been coming for centuries, for the sake of their health and the baths in the splendid springs of hot and cold mineral water which flow from the earth there. The hotel is Spanish, but it is excellent, and no traveler will regret a little journey there as a part of his visit to Puerto Rico. CHA'PTE R XXVI II. THE AGRICULTURE AND PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. Where the Greatest Opportunities Will Be Found-An Agricultural Experiment Station in Puerto Rico-Cotton and Its Possibilities-Conditions of Rice Cultivation-Cacao and the Chocolate Bean-How Coffee Is Cultivated-Sugar and Its Profit-Corn-Cocoanuts-Oranges, Lemons and Limes-Pineapples and Their Possibilities —Pepper —Bananas the Universal Fruit-Tobacco-The Vanilla 1Bean-Mahogany-Poor Quality of Domestic Animals. INDI) IuSTIA, l'luerto luic() l(evotes itself ailmost altogether to agri(culiltre 1t alill; killd(reil Il1i'slluits. Tlerle are fe\w Illanufact oies excelpt those sipplyiiig soitie illillledialte locall wanN t of the peoplle. In tli larger towns tlhere alre ice ffacltories. At San Juan the Standardl Oil conmpany has a small refilnelry, wher('e crude (oil broughti; froi the Unllited States is rectifiedl. Shoes 1are llade!by 1hand by native workmeln and (other m-lecihani3ical traldes ar le repr.resnted everywhere, but they dlo iot Ireach the imp)ortance of a comlllercial lpursuit. It is the forests aIn the fitel(ls of the island tlhat will fulrnislh to Amnerican investors,andl possible immlligrantSs their ol)ppolrtunities for profit 1and thel development of tlhe tropica l weallt of the islnld. Not only is tllis true, u)lt the same pur'suits offel'r' mo'(re aIttractilons in tlie manners of life they l)ermit l ot a uot othler I)ossibil) i ties of lie islaInd. governliuienit of Iullerto lI'Zic(. A) successfull experiIentil al station i4 m118i1 -tained( a-t Ihi) P'iedlras, tlie iesiills of wrii(ih lhave mollre tliaii justifie(d its stiablislment. The recent director of the stattion OFFICIAL INFOR- I^i ernand(io ( l,)(ez Tuero,, has been considered t le best MATION ON AGRICULTURE. tc(thIli(tcl a ltho(rity on tlie products of tlhe island, m1d1 his statemlenltis are the s}ource of muc(h of the infiornli-tion which 1 1lave o(bt;ained )on alriculltulrll a ffairs. As a part of lis work, he has issued a series of monographs on tropical agriculture 414 THE I'RODUCTS '01 IPUERTO RICO. 415 whicl are of great value to anty one interested( in such subjects. IThey a;)11ply s]eclifically to tlhe isl;an(l of P'uerto lico, but in mllllch of their informalion 11hey may be applied alike lto any tropical ishland of simiJla climallltl and soil. Tln( l)r((lldcts w!hic(' h MrI. 'T(ero (liscusses are cotton, rice, (calll 1or, (ca;(c';, ( ()flf(e, sciiglr,, c colr, coco)'anullt, pineal)I)le, pepper, h1,.1va111ilol8a and several veg(etable dye prolduc(ts. The list indi(aC(tes thle variely of p)ssililities in island agriculture. Iis estimlates are a1s co(Inse(rIvative as those of aliy autihority to( be found and m1ay b)e acceplte(l wit 1 consid(rable( cInfidence. Practical men wiih whloml I hlave tillked iln alll)st 1ll of the (lifferent lbran(lches of island ag riculture, 1s1pport his cal'culations ias fairly correct. Con(cerning cotton, Mr. Tuero says that it requires land of goodl lquality, lldeptll anIl( substanlce, whlich wvill cost about (0 pesos an acre 01or n ann(ual re11t al1l of 83.3: pesos. This annual re'ntall, or a correspondling, interest on t11 investment if tlle 1lad is puilrchased, is incl(lded in his estilialf:t of 11 (: aninial cost of c(iltiivatiioi, w\lliclh he c(alc(:ulatles to be 41 p)esos an a'cre:. I'Fromt tlle cotttn s((d a11(d tle cotton sehe exp)ects an annlual return of 53.50 pesos, or 1an annual profit per acre, above the 5.5 per c('ent ite(rest on tile investmlent, of 12.50 pesos. Conditions of rice ('ultivat i(on are som(ll ewait different in lPuerto 1lico from those found in otiler countries. 'l ere is a peculiar but excellent variety, which aloes not relquire irrigation_l__I('E THAT mloluntain rice it is locally nlamed —so that all the 1RWEHAT expense of ditclles and the dis((omfort of worlkin in Ml LANID. a swamp are obviate(l. The rains furnish sufficient watler for tle growing cri)l, ndl( tlhe local demand for consumption in the island alwaysl is (greater than the supply. AWith these advantages it is estimaitedl tlhat the profit on rice, in addition to t-lle ilterest on 1the investmellnt, should be abou( t 14.35 (psos an acre. Cult ivatl ion of ( ca1;ca, 1out of whiich t1e chocollate an(d coc(oa,: of comie(:rce e 11re 11ad, is a1 iiatter less famliliar to IlAmeric(ans tlhzan allmost any other )rod(uct cof I'Puelrt(o li (ico. Thet tree 1under favorable conditions grows to a, height sometimles of forty feet, bearing slmall red flowers land great quantities of po(ds, containing each from twenty to forty alumond-shaped beans, which are the object of the industry. Most of I1H( c(1acao( for colnsui111)t io in. t1 Ie Tit cd States is grown in Eiculador 416 THEI ILPRODUCTrTS 0I I'lI,/RT>O RICO. and Bolivia. \\it-h 'Puerto 1ico 11 palrt of tle IlllitTdl States Iland lo lduty to pay on wrhat is shilpled to 11u froll there, thlle t(dvantage iln fiavol of the island will be a notable one. As it is, altllogllill the crop requires several years to co(mile to the fulll m1easure ()tof beari, still it is oll, of tle most attractive possibilities of tlel islilnd. It lhas tle alddlitionall a(lvaniltage'f tlat the comp)etition is likely to be l1,ss thllan ill coffee auld sugari, which are attracting the greater 1number of iAmerictan invest ils. A cacao plantation requlires eiht years' to (coe to full bea;rilg. At the end of the eigltlit year, accor(linl t to tlie estiilmates of Mr. 'lTuer), tlhe plantatioln has cost, i iinterest and expesse, a total of 208 pes(os aln acre. In the same time there should be a ret ll EARNINGUS OF onl the crop of 104 plesos ll a.re, m1ost of vwhiich, A CACAO PLANTATION. however, would come (luring the last year of the calculation. The deficit, tlen, for the whole term would be 104 pesos an acre. But from that time forward, during wiat the authority calls the normal period, the annual sexpenses and interest are estimated at 49 pesos ani le and the receilts froml the pl)rilIction at 130 pesos, or a net Irofit of 81 pesos. Coffee and sugar have had the greatest t amot(lunt of attention frlll tlhe scientific f"arImers of Puerto lico, as thelir most valuable crops. The estimates 1made on them hlave a large amount of accurate (lata behind them, based on years of experiment and practical knowled(ge on the part of manyl pllaiites. (Coffee is credited with reaclhing its period of full lbiearing in tlle isla;nd in six years from thle establishmentl of the plantation. Witlhin th1is time the pI)lntation slhould cost ii interest or rent and expense a total of 1(62 pesos an acre and should return from the crop, mostly in tlte last year, 86i pesos, or a net deficit of 76 pesos. After that, lduring tlle period (f full production, tlhe cost should be annually about t6 p)esos an acre andl the return 9)0 p(esos, or an annual profit, above interest on the investment, of 24 pesos. Before planting coffee a plentiful sllade must be provided. 'or the first two years a temlpolrary sllade is furnished by banana trec(s, and after that larger trees are planted and trained to give a permlanent shade. The coffee trees grow about eight feet high and send out new shoots from the ground in different directions. The stems arl about the size of a srmall l(ead pencil and they are lined fromn end ito T,,,,, 1) 7,11111, PROM" ( 7. W, 11!E,'RTO RIC""O. 417 nd w1 ithll I (th b>tel-i,, a;l' l c o ( which conllills ItNo of lthe c(d'e 'raills. 'llhe berries are (lark green uIntil tIihey approach ripelingl tillme, late in Septleilber, wl'lln tllhe tllrn a 1P ARATO bright, rich redl. Betlween i the slkin nd tlherains i s i MAKE a kind of jelly, which' is washedll oft after the skin is broken by a llmachine. i The cof)lTee is t he1( dried on racks or cctenllt floors in tlhe open;ir and1l is readly for the iimarket. 1Thel1 coffee of Puerto lico) is as goo(1 as that grwn anywhere, and in the London market usually c (mman111111ds the highest price. 'lle mountltai coffee planlttations aI( sour111ces f grealt weall1 to their owners, and (even the po(orest (f the nat ives hlas a fewl coffee tr Ices.nelTar his house. Sugar is the Ilext Imost ilmllp)(tallt crop in I'Perto li)ico. Sefior Trl11ll'1)s estiliiates h1ave been 1ad1e Aith grlleat calre (on this produc4t and(.y be accepted as c(rr(ect. The first investlent cha'ged in the estiimate(s on1 sugarl is at heavy 11e. It iprovides for tlie erectioln of buillings and the plr:lhase of imachlinery for a Iplantation o(f 250 acres, to a total of 52,5r(0 )esos. T'e ilterest n Iis inllvest lllent, h owever, is (c1arg1ed c(arefully inl the fables of exenlse. ThI l tot1al cost of interes.t, ')prepar)ltion1 o)f hllandl, cu(lfivatioll, p par)l ation oft crop anld marketingI i is c'alcullated at. pesos and Sh111 e anl('lIlll return frolll the cro)p at 170 pesos, or0 a total liet profit otf 1S i)pesos an a('cre. AWitll the t(ltfics (11 11sugar impllorte(t into the Tnitci StIa.tes 1O lo)nger charged agai ist tlhe cr(qo of Puerto lico, this p)ofitl, like tlhat on otlier crops, slholul increase. T11(e discoura,gin con(diions in tlhe islalnd for t ie last few yealrs lhave affectted tlle suigar"r indlustr more tlhan any otler. I'uerto Iic o (las suffered with Jamaica and the.otaribbees beciause of tllhe legislation of tle UTnited States in regardt to thle sugar tlariffs a1nd 1DIFFICULTTIES bounties. T'o-day there are many file fplantltiols I, OF THE lyingl idle, with the mlills and o(toIlr buildiigs falling (AI INi)USTRY. to doecay. IMuc(h o( the sugar land Ilas been g'iven u11 ) (alttle-l-raisig1 biecausel of tlle glereater p4)rofit promIlis'edl tfhereb. ()orn is a crop whlichl will le 1more familiar to o1stl of the A \ me~i(811 flarmers wlio try tlheilr -ot -1une in Pl'uert(lo ico 1d 11dl it is (one withl 1) rlisk whatiever involved. T'l, c(rp1)s iarel always go.I 1d and there is t lelmIand lo(callv for m1lost )of tlie vicld, while tle surilis, if any, can 418 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. be sold to adlvantage in the neighboring islands of the West Indies. The cost of the crop is calculated at 33 pesos an acre, includ(ing ilt(erest on the investment, or rent of the ground, and the value of the crop alt 49 pesos, or a (net Iprofit of 1(6 1esos ani acre. For one who1 canl wait for his incoilte, or who lias other interests to occupy lhis tihlle whilte waiting, the plantation of vocoanut palms offers lmany attrlactions as well as a prom)ise of remarkable profit. The trees comel to full belaring in from seven to ten years fromll the date of planting,, and tlhey c(ontinule to yield a full (ropI) llnil they are fifty years old, wiithout any cullttiovation or attention exc(ept to gather tlh nuts. Thlen they bl(egi1i to diminisl in tl(eir bearhing captacity. Tlih (cost for iinterest and labor upl to the lime of bearingl is recl;one( lo be 152 lpesos t1n.cre. Whene the c(rop (1es, it shouldl bring a return of about 320 pesos aln ac re annually, witl Itujt little expentse for at(teltion to the trees, the extermination of vermin whichl1 1may attack th(emi and the gatlhering of th e crop. Citrus fruits lhave not been cultivatedl witli n1m1uc c(arle in lPlerrto Rico and no attention hlas Ibeen paidl to impnlroviing thle varieties. Orange and lemo(I trees bear in abo)ut flour yelars. Tlie CITRUS FRUITS frwlit is as goo(( as would 1(be expected whi(en t1le littl]e ARE NOT THE FINEST. car it 1as Iiad is relmemlbered, and witlout doubt an industry co()111 b)e built lul) pro)Iitably. Limes, ]however, are much more used in Puerto lio than lemons, answeringi all purposes quite as well. A pineapple plantation in Puerto Ric) comes to bearing the first. year of cultivation at a total expense of 40 pesos an acre. It is claiimed that the crop will bring in return 200 pesos an acre, leaving a profilt of 160 pesos a year. The figures are affirmed on all sides by men lwhol ought to know, iand, if so, it should be )one of tlie most telmpting inliistries of tle, country. TUnder those (ircumlltances it seems1 strange tliadl tlie pine is not mo(re generally raised in the island. Pepper colnes, to what may be called its full bearing term in tlie( fifth year of cultivation, but the increase still is constant and rapl)id until the twentieth year. Then begins a slow reduction in the annual vield, which makes it run out altogether in the fortieth year after planting'. The industry is not yet general in Puerto Rico, but sfiti THE PRODUCTS 1OF PUERTO RICO. 419 cient experiments have beein Ilade to prove that it will be a valuable part of the island's i)ro(duction. The profit for the middle thirty years of the period of forty is calculated to be 13O pesos annually, on an annual cost of 100 pesos. Spanish colonists from Manila introduced tile cultivation of pepper into I'uerto Rico. In Mr. Tiuero's estilmates, bananas are credited with an annual expe-se of 45 pesos and an annual return of 160 pesos an acre. In IPuerto Rlico, however, this crop is not raised commercially to any great extent. It is found all over the island, at every roadside, on every hill and in every valley. Its broad leaves shade the huts of the native peasants iand its load of rich fruit feedls them. It h1ol(1s,Cbout the salme relation to tlhe bill of faret in lluerto Rico that potatoes do to us. There are llmany varietiesvarvaryin in size, color and flavor. Somre are eaten raw, others are dried and made into BANANAS OR THE flour, while others are cooked as a ve'getable. Inas-AMERI(AMARKET much as the climate and soil enable every one to grow bannans enough for his own use, there is no occasion for the establishment of a plantation to grow them for local consumption. For the American mlarket, however, I'uerto Riico should offer considerable profit in th-e (llltivation of this favorite fruit. Tobacco in l'uerto Rico is a paying crop and is cultivated much as it is in the United States. The estimates on profit allow an annual cost of 79 pesos, including, as usual, interest, rent and all details of cultivation. The return is figured at 144 pesos, thus making an annual profit of 65 pesos per acre. The tobacco is hardly equal to the best Vuelta Abajo of Cuba, but improved methods of cultivation and curing oughlt to bring it up to the highest quality. The best plantations are in Ilte vicinity of Coamino and Aibonito. The vanilla bean has the most (generous claims of all as to the profits to be expected from its culture. It is claimed that the cost of raising tle crop would be 94 pesos an acre yearly, most of which would go for manure and irrigation and that the annual return per acre would be 652 pesos an acre. The wealth of Puerto Rico in mahogany has been little used, that industry not appealing to Spanish planters. The result is that Haiti and Santo Domingo have had the monopoly in that line, which Puerto 421) 4~~) TJL U PIROD)VCT,9 OP Pt 1UIRTO RICO. JU'i co' i j u.1I tI ha veS IIare(l. Ihe mnahiog)aliitly fo(rests are 1iisiiiilly ()II the 1mounitain 'slolpes facing the sead, front which 1og~s could be rafted downi thte little streanis to the railw~ay aogthe north coast. The most o-rievous tliiwr I learnedl about mnahogany during imy MAH1OGANY work. aniong, the islands, was that in St. Johns and BURNED) FORl. FIR WOl). the other obscurer islands of the group of which 81. Thomias foriin-m a ptart, the inarketis are so scant and( ile he l)b,~l So idilfllerelit to the wve~alt Iiat their (loor8, that they actually burn nin aooga ny for firewood witho:_ut the s~lightest c ompunctioi o)r realization of their act. Sonici one ought to (Yo down there and tealch them better, tO his own Profit and theirs. In connection with thet, rural 'ilIdUstIies of Puerto Rico, it is necessary to say here that farmers must (lepend upon draft oxenI and not uponl horses. Of cattle-raising im the islandl, I have spoken in an earlier chiapter. Thme horses are pioor anld smalli], so that there will be an oppI)oV tunitY to imtprove theni by then introduction of American stock. Thie otherdomesic aimalsfoun in the isla nd seemn to be dwarfed as the(, horse. is, and need new blood to imike themi large enough for usefulness. Gfoats, sheep, hogrs and poulftry are all too smnall and almost w"orthle~ss,-, measured by American standtardls. In all of the calculations of possible profit in agriculture in this chapter I have used pesos ins-tead o)f dolflars as the unit. The purpose and sigiiiticance, of thisg I shall discuss in the next chapter, in connection with th~e finances of the island. Until a financial system is devisedl for Puerto Rico as a, substitute for the one now in effect it would be impossible to make estimates in dollars with any degree of accurac-y. After that timle, it will be at,simple matter for time reader to calcemlate the estimates here given in terms of dollars instead of pesos. CHAPTER XXIX. CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. Successful Industry of an American Pioneer in a Spanish Colony-A Great Cattle Ranch-African Stock in the West Indies-Draft Oxen and Beef Cattle-Varieties of Pasture Grass in Puerto Rico-Some Peculiar Cattle Pests-Spanish Violence to an American Citizen-Public Land in Puerto Rico and How to Obtain It-The Land Transfer System of the Island-Life on a Cattle Ranch. A N INDUSTRY of interest to many Americans, and one which llas not been necglected in Puerto Rico, is tie raising of cattle. Among the cattle ranches of the island, the largest but one is owned by a gentleman who had to leave at the outbreak of the war on account of his American citizenship. Mr. Wencislao Borda is a cosmopolitan, but he is a good American and one of the sort who develop primitive countries and leave them habitable. Ilis experience in pioneering may be of value to others who are calculating on similar industries. His parents were residents of the United States of Colombia, both of-them natives of Bogota, the capital, and of the most prominent families of that republic. They removed to London, where my friend was born. When he was nine years old, the family came to New York, and from that time they have been Americans, the father by naturalization and the children because they were minors when they came to America. Mr. Borda was educated in colleges in New York, and, after his law studies, practiced as an attorney in New York city for several years. Then he went to the United States of Colombia for a few years, and at last turned his attention to Puerto Rico, where his father had large interests in cattle and sugar. Hacienda Esperanza, the Borda. cattle ranch, is near Barceloneta, 421 422 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. a small station on the north-coalst railway, a.bout thirty miles west of the capital. The tract of land1 lies along a river, which comes down from the neighboring mountains, and flows into the AN AMERICAN CATTLE ASEH N ssea at this Ioint. It extends rilht down to tlhe ocean PUERTO RICO. and includes lands of all sorts, suitable for ranching as well as for crops. The pasture grasses are excellent in quality, nutritious and plentiful. The cattle from this ranch have commanded prices as high as any in the island, which is saying a good deal in a country where cattle always have been high. The stock has been carefully bred with the best strains of blood introduced into the herd. American cattle fornmed the nucleus of the herd, and to that start were added some choice ilmportations from South Africa. The African bullock is a favorite here for draughlt purposes-the chief use of high bred cattle here. The trace of the African hump is seen in almost every animal under the yoke, something of a puzzle till the explanation is offered. Where all the freighting is done by ox-carts and the treatment of them is severe enough to require the best stock, it is not strange that the price of bullocks for the yoke should be an essential in the calculation of profits on a cattle ranch. It means a good deal that draughtoxen are worth from 125 to 200 pesos a yoke, according to the quality of the stock, the excellence of the match and the care with which they have been broken to the yoke. Before the war too, DRAFT-OXEN there was a big demand for beef-cattle, the prices AND BEEF-CATTLE. ranging as high as three and a quarter or three and a half pesos for the arroba, or 25 pounds. During the war, and just after, the market was low because money was scarce, there was not much work being done and the laborers were unable to buy meat. Several well-known varieties of pasture grass grow well in Puerto Rico, Guinea grass, Para grass and gramma amlong others. The first does not require a rich soil, but does well in sandy soil, high on the slopes of the hills, without much regard whether or not it is a wellwatered region. Cut and chopped it makes an excellent green fodder. Para grass requires better land and lower, and consequently is selected for those places where there is an alluvial soil to give richness. Such CA7,4TTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. a p)asturle usually occupies nieaiic ow hflalontg the streaiis. Grammna requires less richness than (toes the Para grass and wviii do well in similar soil to that where the Guiinea grass, flourishes. Para grass makesfat raipidfly, but. the beef-caffIc fatelte(1e on it (10 not weigh as i-ici for the samut lapparecut, size, as d(10 those fattenied on the other pasture. Difficulties of Cattle Menlo Two pests, have to be foughlt by the cattle-raisers here, which woul(I be altogether strange, to, a, fa-rmer of the northi. One is the guava, and ibe other is a, peculiar plant (cailed by thie local people "'mori vivi."1 The (raliva, where it, is,, welcoiiiedl,is usedl as ta wor-thy fruit andl furnishes the unliNersal dessert, for the. dhinier in C ulba antid this island-guava, paste with cheese. But on the cattle ranch it is anathemna. 'Wherever the, guava grows, cate at tefruit wi'aiiy hey scatter the seeds all about the ranch, and the energ-etic guava multiples. It is of rapidl o'rowth and ahuost impossible of extermination except by the closest (,are. Like the thistles of some northern farms~-, it overwhelms nature, and] man and takes the place for its own. The, other pest, which by a free translation may be calledl "it lives an(I it (lies," isa sensitive lplant in its action, but extremely hardly in its ability to survive attack. Thme center of the little weed is surrounnde( by a series of very sharp an(l stiff spines which lie flat on the ground when thte plant is not disturbed. OM PASTULIRE At the first touchl, however, they rise erect and bristle PESTS. wi'th points like a porcupine on a. small scale. As the cattle graze about the pasture, they comne to these armored weedls, and~ attemnpt to eat the, teinptingl bit in the center. Then the spines rise to stab thle tendler miose of the, (lestroyer, and lie retreats- in hias.,te. It (toes not take, long for cattle to learn the( wisdom of not, poking their noses inlto the mori vivi. Then the lplant mulmtiplies unmolested until it. m1ay e"ven overrun a, pasture,. It not only protects isl in this fashion, lftl it" prevents the cattle from reaching other grasses that maly be grrowingr witIh it. These two pests are- worse enlemlies than thle spaniards to a planta.lio~n which has lbeeii left to catre fo)r itse(1f for a thiiO. 8omiiitimues they -4 '2 4 (C147' 17./, A'..ll 'IlN( IN >I'1 1/7'1() A'1((). cltaim1 a whole past irie So complelt elyv ti hat it Iiiiist. be abad)inonid for a season while the itnterlol)pers ai'e extermlninal edi l c. These are some of the reasons why Mr. Borda was in doubt what condition lie woull find wlhen he could return to his place a,,gain in safety. When the war broke oit, or t t-l ttinie when it. bleclamc necessary for American citizens to leave Puerto Rico, Mr. IlBordla went 1to New York where his parents an(l brother live, to wait. for the ca'tii)aign. At the opening of the calmpaign he caile itlh xeneral Brooke in an unofficial caplacity, and w:oys a id 14S for g,,irls. Alt(ogetrtlli tlihere are in attel(ndalce luplils to tlhe i uumber of 27,938S, of wlhom 119,074 are boys and S,8i64 lre girls. ''1e negl(ect to take a(lvantalge of what schools there aIre, is shown by the flact tihat, a(ccordling, to tihe l]ast ce((lsus, t lhere are 65,3(5 boys of school:age in the islall( a(nd (i0,')30 girls. lii 1S)7 the islanlll sp)ent )n its s(chools.a total of 332,836,7 pesos. In tlhe island (cabinet, uIl(l(er the auIto(lo()mln s governlllenllt whliichl was granted by Spa)in too late to save Itlie colony, there is a minister of education and public wolrks nnd(er whose special (clare It he schools are intended to be. The orlganization is not a complicalted one, for, though strange termns a1re used in the nomenlclatutre, tlhey are arranged in grades quite simiilar to our oiwn. There are, first, the primary sc(hools, for.children less th1l flive ye(rs of ae. Next come the auuxiliary schools, andi then tlen, elelmental, or1 gramm ar, 'grades. rTe lliig school is called the sul)er('ior s(lcool. Tlleset divisions 1are pre)tty werll maintained in the cities, bult in the country tlie "rurales" I1re schools which contain all the grades iin on(, just as 1ourl lit tle whllite schlloollhouse does at home in the north. It is an index of manyt otlher c(olllitio{ns of the islalndl to know that in the schools there is no association of the sexes, girls land boys being taught in differlent plac-(es alt)ogetherl. Not only ar e -tlhere no inixed s(chools, but boys are alw ays taughl t by men a(lnd girls by wiomen tteach 446 AMkERICA4N OPPORTUNZITIS IN PUERTO RICO. l's. The only exceptioll to tllis is tlhat (chlildlrel ldll(ler five( y'lears go) to mixed schools, and tlle teachers of those sclools are women. Children of the poor, who are unable to pay the cost of SEPARATION tuition an(d school books, Ire not charged for either OF SEXES IN THE SCH(OOLS. ~of these. B it- tll(e a re lreuiilredl to bring to the school a certificate froml thlte maylor of the town, stating the condition as to their ileaIns. 'rle school law 1 provides frankly for tlhe two classes under tlh(e wordls "riclh" anld "poor." I find that 4,868 of tlhe childlren ill scholl 1ar1e c'lassified as "los lpobres," anl, conseq(uiently, do nlot hale to pay for b1)oks )or tlintion. All others p]ay tuition for their ed ucat ionl inst ead of schllool tiaxes, this being( the wa in whichl the systenll is sullpport(,d. After tlhe yloung folks finish the work of the superior scllools, which (1do not carry themll as higlh as do) our hiolgh schools by at least two years' work, there relminas for Ithem in Puerto!'ico but one thing hlig'lher-the institilte. Tle e gvi( erunlent supports a collegiate institute ili t(he. ctalital, whichl!, frnom all I (ca learn, seemns to be a very good school. It give(s to its gra';l(ilates the degree of 1. A., but that degree does not Illean as u111( educa(tion as it is presiui(ed to mean in an American colle'e. It would be, perhaps, a fair cornEDUCATION parison to say that it indicates studies about on a OF THE YOUNG WOMREN. level with those of the sophomore year in a college at home. Tlle entering class each year usually numbers about 100 students, and the graduatinig class, after four years' sRludy, usually turns out from fifteen to twenty with the degree. But t Ihree y()ung wolmen ever have v radatted fromn the institute, though the coU'(se is open to men and women alike, on eqlual terms. The three wlto graduated were much admired for their }ersistency, -for, as iiy informnant put it, "Girls do not care much about such things in this island." The course of study requires that the student shall take one modern language —French, German or English, as he may elect. Most of the graduates whom I met had chosen French, and now are regretting the fact that they did not learn English. Among the branches taught are latin and (reek, chemistry, geology, botany, physics, algebra, geolmetry and history. The sciences are taught in rather elc AMERIfCA1'N OPP~OR TUNITIIES IN PUERTO RICO.44 447 mental fashion, 11owever~ as the ilistittite is iiot very well pirovided Wvilli latboratory facilities. A ti~titioti fee of two,( and oine-1Iialf pesos a yer for each branchi studied is charged in the instit iite. The usual age of stuidents at g(rradujalionl is 1S or 19 yea ils. If they dlesire education beyond that 1)oilt-, they nitist. g"o abromad for. it, asPulerto Rico offers not hing miore. Spanish 1itniversit ics receiv lu)s of those who seek to be phIysicianus or Lawyers. Me~(l1ical dle(Viees ftoni colleo-es 1111 the Unite(d States have iiot been recogn'ized inl the isla iid1 anid did not give, the righit to pr-actice, which of cournse btat're(l lieni oIi The Ile al education one woul(l ()et in ain Americ-an uini versit Nvwould be of little service in, prtactice in Puecrto Ri-o, as I he courts hiav-e beenl org-)anized. Studlents in dentistry gro always to the Uiiited States, and in San Juan the Amuerican (lentist is at the toji as trufly as lie is in London or Au2stralia. I fouind two youivg imen whlo had graduated inl dental,,schools in the north, both of thein thorouighly collpJetelnt, 811(1 employing the nmost m1odlern un-ethodls. Students of nll~ineerhiu, and knrdIlo fessions alm-ost all gro to the United States for their. education and rank high when they return. There TECHINICAIL STUhas been no false notion here, about the excellence of DENTSEIN TH Amierican sc-hools. My friend did the vomil women of the island. same injiistice as to their (lesire for education. Mal,nyv( of themn have gone to the United States to attend school, and tile advantatve they have had is recognized frtankly tamong their friemis. The church schools have been included in the foregoing statistics, inl which they (10 not formt as large a. par~t as the general impression has it. lloman Catholic sisters teach some of the gvirls' schools and that is abouit all. But there is ta p~riests' college for the instruction of candi(lat~es forthe 1l)riestllood. I ami told that it has been a frequent p~ractice for young, men to enrter this institution for the puirpose of becomingr priests, renma iii long(, enough to fret their education, and then leave without enteringr the ministrv. The chiurch does not (lomninate the schools,-, here as fully as it. d1oes iii Cuba. In the other cities of the islandl they are not so well providefl, but. iin the capital city there is an excellent public library of several thousand volumes, well selected andl well arranged, with good realileg room a'nd facilities for consulting the books,,, It jjas little recent literfatujr( 448,JIMEL RICAIN ( 'OPPIORTUNITIES IN PUEIRTO RICO. except Spanish and French. But the historical collections are very,goOd in all langai' s, anldl no doubt the savant who TREASURES O0 m lmiglht burrow there sulficienltly would find in the obTHE OLI}D BOOK1 S'TOR)ES. sllest selves t somlie trelasul' e of eiarly SIpanish printing or one of the first editions of famous maps and voyages into the Spanish mnain, if indeed there were not Caxtons. It is worth the search of solme one who has time and lpatience. The book shops of the island, too, would repay a scrultiny. Thley are numerous and well kept, with excellent stocks of current literature in Spanish, French and German. Commerce of Puerto Rico. The Estistaistica (1(llenetl del (e Comercio EJxterior, Puerto Rico, 1897, gives the following figures (the latest published) in regard to the trade of the island in 1S895: IMPORTS OF PRINCIPAL ARTICLES. Articles- Value.* Art icles --- Value.* C oal............................. $119,403 F lour........................... $982,222 Iron...........2................. 224,206 Vegetables...................... 192,918 Soap............................ 238,525 Olive oil........................ 327,801 M eat and lard.................. 1,223,104 W ine............................ 305,656 Jerked beef...................... 133,616 Cheese.......................... 324,137 Fish............................. 1,591,418 Other provisions................ 171,322 Rice......................... 2,180,004 Tobacco (manufactured)......... 663,464 EXPORTS OF PRINCIPAL ARTICLES. Articles- Value.* Articles- Value.* Coffee...........................$8,789,788 Sugar...........................$3,747,891 Tobacco................... 646,556 Honey........................... 517,746 The value of the total illlports as.$16,155,056, aglils $18,316,97 for the preceding year. The exports were valued at $14,629,494, against $16,015,665 in 1894. The principal increases in imports, as compared with the preceding year, were in meats, fish, olive oil, and tobacco. Decreases were noted in flour, vegetables, and wine. The exportation of coffee diminished, and that of sugar and honey increased. * United States currency. AMERICAN OPI'OR 'I'UNI'l'IIS IN PIUERT() ICO. 449 The trale of the IUnit-ed States witll Pulerto Rico du{lrinl, the last seven years, as given by Uni tates Treasury fgre, was: Description. 1891. 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1896. 1897. Imports: Free......$1,856,955 $3,236,337 $3,994,673 $3,126,895 $375,864 $48,608 $101,711 Dutiable.. 1,307,155 11,670 13,950 8,739 1,131,148 2,248,045 2,079,313 Total.... 3,164,110 3,248,007 4,008,623 3,135,634 1,506,512 2,296,653 2,181,024 Exports: Domestic.. 2,112,334 2,808,631 2,502,788 2,705,646 1,820,203 2,080,400 1,964,850 Foreign.. 42,900 47,372 7,819 14,862 13,341 21,694 24,038 Total... 2,155,234 2,856,003 2,510,607 2,720,508 1,833,544 2,102,094 1,988,888 The (Icommerce' of Spain witll l'llueto lRico froml 1891 to 189G) was: Description. 1891. 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1896. Imports from Puerto Rico.... $3,260,650 $4,428,891 $4,108,654 $4,164,964 $5,824,694 $5,423,760 Exports to Puerto Rico...... 3,305,243 3,929,186 4,653,023 5,535,027 8,572,549 7,328,880 The tratde of P'llerto V ico wit other coulitries of impl!ortance in 189 (;(ccordlling to the Esta(listica (neneral del (Clonlercio Exterior) was: Country. Imports. Exports. Cuba.............................................................$ 808,283 $3,610,936 England......................................................... 1,765,574 1.144,555 France.......................................................... 251,984 1,376,087 Germ any........................................................ 1,368,595 1,181,396 Italy............................................................ 19,619 589,045 Holland......................................................... 325,301 3,246 Denm ark........................................................ 26,565 236,418 British W est Indies.............................................. 1,709,117 521,649 Danish W est Indies.............................................. 600 40,434 French W est Indies............................................. 55 62,927 The principal exports in 1896 were: Articles. Quantity. Articles. Quantity. Sugar........................tons.. 54,205 Tim ber......................tons.. 30 Coffee........................do... 26,655 M olasses......................do... 14,740 Hides........................do... 169 Tobacco.......................do... 1,039 Cattle.......................head.. 3,178 I I * if 7-K~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~1 Lc~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~. O~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~t"I.wn Ttn Thol Brr Iri~ ~8nd Tie,ay ~ R k~~~~~<~~~~B~~~g ~* 6""" rs ~~~~~~~~op~~~ O rn Usoa Drs tssgas INiii C.,s I 'key AJ ~ v e ~,4 y L ID;Ift V I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~U ili. ' c ie 1 i&lli A,6 a -" BRB La: n~ I;P ~~~~~ ~~~FiyOii *j Si i "i'i Si Gc Siii Fi ii~r uu )~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~4 I /uui Sii~yf 5 rrtt goa$ai: S~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~S0 i4~ ~ ~~~~lss 5555 "esO5 4~~t~ sii ~ nEx Ciii 15Ir-V5iir E~rr -oi b a,-~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~, ~:~~~~~~~~~~Va W ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~iilss UZI ssrPlh~F i ~ - A, v RB 3,L~,O. Mx V~ki 1; C- P s I ii K ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~,g~~~555551ss5i55 it i/;~ \* ul- A-tign 4" AAIr"Oc ~ ~ l"2 C I J R A. dt t1 s/ 5 -i tel S s Sits E.l f u V-q~ ~~~~o co~feissssi tisais iii ~a~tioii~ C C1, C~i~o dltA~~~~~~~~~ Ji~~~~~~t~~~~r~~~~aaj,,,i,~~~~~~~~~~~~~31 dB~lu A, & STATUTE MILES (Bd R 6~~S I. )~B1~ O el "j~ f~~~~~~~~~~ (' e-%Pp~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~a, ~ ~ ~,, l. 1 "wi; Ib A C SAAro. "THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES." T HIlE greatest island alnd tlhe greatest city:)f all the West Indies, discovered by C(ollumbus on his first voyage, are now for the first tinme looking toward intiImate conmmercial and social relations with the United States of America. It is 380 years since the city of Havana was founded to begin its history of commercial importance. With more than 200,000 population and enormous nmercantile interests, the city has been considered the capital IMPORTANCE capital OF HAVANA of all Spain's West Indian colonial possessions and TO SPAIN. of consequence to the peninsular kingdom no less for its strategic and defensive value than for its commnerce. It was thrmough centuries of Spanish misrule, warfare and oppression, that the island and the capital of Cuba reached their proud station. The "Spanish main" was the scene of strife for hundreds of years after the first voyage of Columbus, between those nations jealous of the riches which were to be won from the natives who peopled the islands and the coasts of the Caribbean and tle Gulf of Mexico. Now, after insurrection, there has come peace, with a promlise of prosperity to rest upon the island of Cuba, the fruits of which shall go to those who earn them instead of those who prey upon them. The island of Cuba is our next-door neighbor to the south, just within the north torrid zone, and within a few hours' run of the ports of Florida. In latitude, climate, physical characteristics and resources it has many things in kindred with the other islands of our new possessions, the Philippines, Puerto Rico and Hawaii. The meridian of Washington crosses the island at its widest part, about 250 miles east of Havana and 200 miles west of Cape Maysi, the most eastern point 455 4-); " T1E l"l PEARL OF TIl A1NT1 1 l.S1,1'. (f ( 'lba. I lavana is a trifle north of Ilonolilu and on almost exactly tlle s-alie larallel of lattiilde as HIong Kong ian( Calcutta. (1Teo1)a1ically, tihe islland of Cuba is containled between meridilns 4 and 8.5 west of (Greenwichll, tie whole lelngth of the island, front r'a!)e Alayvsi to Calpe San Alntoniio, beinlg alouit 7T(0 miles. In latitude it extenlls fromll a trifle so)util (f 2() to a. trifle nolltll of 23 degrees northl of t*i e equlator. Tihe narro(west part of the island, which is in tlie vicinity of hIavana, measures but thirty miles, while a.t the widest part, measured north and south throiugh the city of Manzani o, its breaIdt h is 125 miles. The island is nearly as long, therefore, as an air line from New York City to (Chicago. TIle geographical location of the cities of HIavana and Santiago{1() de C1ub1a ma11lkes themI of great service in dominating commerce in soutlhern waters. Vessels from tle Atlantic ports of the UBAIN CITIES TUnited States and all European co'untries tradilln OCEAN COMMERCE. with Mexico and the cities of tle Gulf of Mexico, pass thie very dloor of l!iavana. Santiag{o is equally se(rviceable as a port on the soutllerln side of the island for vessels sailing from our:tl1:ntic po()rts to Central America, P:'anana, and tIhe )nortli coasSt of Souith America. With Cuba under our conmmercial iilmu1ce Illand Puerto tico in our possession, we shall be ab1 le to do(Iillate the coilminerce of the C( aribbet,11an andl the (Tiulf. The compleltion of the;Nicaragua canall will be the final stroke to guaranftee )our prominen(ce in those waters. FroInll avana to Key West, the near(:st port of the United States, t-le distance is but ninety miles, and to Iort Tampa on the mainlanll of Florida, less than 300 miles. Fronm Havana the distance to New( Orleans is 600 miles, to Galveston 800, to Vera Cl(ruz 800, to New York 1,300, an(l to San Juan de Puerto -ico about 1,000 miles. From Santiagro to Port Antonio, in the British island of Jamaica, it is but 100() miles, and to tle Mole St. Nichlolas in tle republic of Ilaiti but a little more than tlhat distance. From Santiago to Greytown, the entrance to ithe Nica.ragua canal, it is biut 700 miles iand about the same distance to (olon, the initial point of the Pan1Iama railway. It is impossible to know at this writing wlhat will be the ultinat{e solution of the politica('l relatlionshipT)s tbetwteenl t-1e Ullitted States,of TOMB OF COLUMBUS IN THE CATHE DRAL OF HAVANA Thle buirial-place of Ch:lristopher C;olumbulils has bieenl dispultedl for ~atlly Y cars, betweenl the `1Y Sauto Domitigo anid Havania Each claimr~ant has maniy supporters. Otle olf the last ac~ts of A Nh atithority bit Cubla was to remrove the bones wehich puriportedl to bie those of t~je great idiscoverer (" 'ei r septillcre alldt convey tbenm to -;3paiii for re-interniepxt on Splaliiih soil ~i ~ -v \i i " ii I I i a! > 'jl E: i t;;r -:I..,-; 91': -:-: -0,~ i:: -:::::.:: ' -:R.!i. 0 0;: '; - V a;.;-: ~ 0 - ~ PALACE~~~~~~ 0F-E-PTJGNRAiVN E... 1'..s }.S\ttEtlt+ ~~ t I e1 eo lec:~lsgelr1( 1t rxllX Xs lfe e e e~l+-Xlolltis(st t;; t.S s6 ti~t.tli't~~ (~ >l181 Je>T11tx \&c~ 1 1 1(AR x a 31X l~~l-{ tft= l g~T~( rStIe/s plls1e: ~ -S> THE INDIAN STATUE IN THE PRADO, HAVANA CUBA Whatever else tle palsi have filel to o in aaa they hae not itt to or tthe cit in tht xe uar d any ecelent stlatues, Ttis one stands in the rado One of the fiest club Ihouses of Havana stands ins the backg rotund. i f E 1 2~! J 9} E.a:~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | || ~ _ -- lrN g * * __ ____1 g ~~~~~~~~~~P! I i lli ~~~~~~ X 1tH. 1* x 1w~c E r _ 1 X = < ~~x~~i~~i iN,.I,ILtf~!!2 mJz i1 0 1~~~~~~~~~ ~~... ~~ z.!1X1 ~... ~ ~, X f "'11e!I IARII. 0, I I.i NT'I.1.11 '. 4 )1. America and tle islantiI of ( 1lba. 'lle primary fact is that (Cuba will ino lo(nger be under tl(he dolmilnance of thll obsoletle power of Spain. After tlhree yenrs (f illsurrection and a sunml er's catlmpaign by Armeric'an forces, tlhe island la is been freed. Now it must wor(k ut its o(wn problemsl of governierlitllt, witll the fri{endly aiid lnld dllin(oition of the JUnlited States It( assist. It, is Illmanlifest d(estiny titha t il ( cmimierce andl the progress of the island shall follow Amlericilan c(llImaneIls Ind addop)t NuAmerican formnIs. Sentiment and MI'ANE DOMINANICE )roximity alike point to tlhat concluiision. Iow inti- LN CUBA. mate the political affiliatioin rmay be, it is too soon to know. Alr(eauly Ame1ri(can capiital and energy arel flowing into the island to developI its r(emarkable laten't wealth and resources. Wsitlin tlhe next few yelars it slhould h1ave a 1me asurl'e f pI)rgri'ss scar(cely conc(eivatble at this time. 1lThere lar( olpportlnities foir many Americans, waiting to be utilized ill tllhe "I'earl of tle Altilles." lThere is no phlevase of inforlmation aboult tllhe isl:nd of Cuba that fails of interest. Its hlistory froTll t1 (h very dys of disc(('ov(ry is full of romance. rThle (descril)tion of its resour(ces andl its phl sica l conditions, plIrased in the sim1llest terIms, is a surp)rising array of (lntertlaining iand picturesquel fac(ts. If one loks t: tlhe fut ure, roman iand interest imultiply (and t-lihe subj(ect. becomes fone{ for the i ),ost exuberant prophecies. It is of this island tat tie following (cl apters are to treat. I CHAPTER XXXII. A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. Bones of Columbus Removed from Havana to Spain-Injustice to the Explorer-How Spain Gained and Lost a Magnificent Colonial Empire-Aborigines of Cuba a Tractable People-Columbus Enchanted with the Beauties of the IslandProgress of Settlement in Cuba-Founding of Havana-A Letter from the Great Discoverer. o NE of the last official acts of Spain, in abandoning her rule in Cuba, was to remove from the resting-place in Havana cathedral, where they had lain for many years, the bones which purported to be those of Christopher Columbus, the famous discoverer of the island which was their proudest colonial possession. It is impossible to ignore the sentimental side of the loss of Cuba to the Spanish. They yielded to the strength of the very American nation, which was born as a result of the pioneer voyages of that explorer, who began his discoveries under Spanish auspices. Cuba and Columbus are names inseparably connected. This largest and most fruitful island of the Spanish main was discovered by the great navigator himself, on the 28th day of October, 1492, only a short time after his first landing upon the soil of the western hemisphere on the island of San Salvador. There is a sentimental association to Americans in the thought that the discovery of our own continent was due to the expeditions sent from Spain. But any regret in one's mind that SPANIuSH aanimosities have arisen between the two nations, INGRATITUDE TO COLUMBUS. may be mollified by tile memory that Columbus himself was an Italian, that it had required years of his efforts to induce sufficient interest on the part of Spanish monarchs to father his undertaking, and that his life in the service of Spain was marred by the basest ingratitude on the part of those whom he had served. 462 A GLANCE AT CUB,AN IHISTOR1Y. Upon the handsome monument erected( to the memory of (olumbus in Seville by Ferdinatnd and Isabella, is the simple inscription, "A Castile y Leon, nuevo mundo dio Colon" —"to Castile and Leon, Columbus gave a new world." This was the tardy recognition granted to the discoverer by those to whom he had made the marvelous gift. Ilecognition had been denied him in his life, except after years of persistent urfing, second only to those years he wasted in his effort to arouse Spanish interest and enterprise. Once lie was removed from his West Indian governorship and returned to Spain in chains. The titles and honors which had been promised him before, were deniced after he had earned them. He was a victim of foul ingratitude, and no American need permit sentiment to blind him for the sake of Columbus. The splendid new world which Columbus gave to Spain, was the most marvelous addition of territory that has ever come into the possession of any nation upon earth. It included tlhe whole of South America, except Brazil, which was acquired by Portugal, and the smrall colonies known as British, Dutch and French Guiana. It included the whole of Central America and Mexico. It included the whole of what is now the Jnited States west of the Mississippi river. It included the whole of the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and the peninsula of Florida to the southern limit of Alabama WHAT SPAIN GAINE) ANDT and Georgia, and except for a few scattered islands, NOW HAS LOST. it included every foot of land in the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean sea, all the coral rocks, as well as the greater. islands of the West Indies and the Antilles. To-day not a foot of all that enormous possession remains to Spain. These hundreds of thousands of square miles are inhabited by a free and peaceful people, most of them as republics, and the few exceptions under civilized and liberal colonial policies. Spain could not preserve thle gifts of Columbus. Tile logic of events and the progress of civilization liave cornlnanded that Spain should witlldraw from her possessions in the western hemisphere. Never has there been such a record of ferocity and barbarity in conquest as that which blackens the pages of Spanish history in connection with Spain's acquisition and subjection of her newly discovered territories. Whlether it was the peaceful Indians of 404 A GLANCE AT C/UBAN HIISTORV. the Antilles, the highly civilized Aztecs of Mexico, or the Incas of Peru, the policy pursued was always the same. First, treacherous friendship, then robbery and nmassacre, then slavery, and finally extermination, was the unvarying programme. And so, instead of winning favor and loyalty with their consequenlltappiness an(l prosperity from the native tribes, Spa;nish conquerors ilnI)ltlnted in tlhe possessors of the country an overmlasterintg landl illerad(lic all e lhatred, which grew with association, until in colony after colony the bonds were burst by violence. When Great Britain lost her American colonies by reason of her misgovernment and oppression of them, it was a lesson which her people never forgot. From that day, the colonial policy of thle British governmlent was altered, and the spirit of liberality and generosity began to dlominate. To-day, every colony of Great Britain that enjoys representative government-Canada, Australia, (Cape Colony and many others, owes to the United States the liberty which Great Britain grants. But Spain could learn no such lessons. Hler cruelty and Inisgovemrnment aroused colony after colony to rebellion ending in freedom, but her policies remained unaltered. One by one possessions of fabulous wealth dropped away until at last this old crone of nations hlas been left to shiver alone by her fireside, abandoned in her misery by all the children whose memory of her is nothing but that of viciolus cruelty. The only pity to which Spain is entitled, is the pity that is due for her ignorance and her mistakes, not pity for the penalties that these have brought upon her. Spain was once the intellectual leader of the world, as well as the pioneer of discovery. Spanish universities were centers of learning long before northern Europe had its intellectual birth. Spanish mariners sailed every sea and Spanish adventurers explored every land. If learning and advancement bring obligations, as they WHEN SPAIN are admitted to do, it was Spain's obligation to be a WAS A GREAT NATION. leader in strife for liberty of mind and body, but the two most notable things in her history are the Spanish inquisition against freedom of thought, and thle Spanish ferocities which enslaved a new world for many a year. Now she has reaped thle harvest of her own misdeeds. A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 465; Every One knows thiat (Cololimlblus was not looking for a western hemisphere, but for the Orient, an(1 that when lie found. Cuibal he believedl he had reached the East liflies an(1 the islands of gold and spice which had been reportei from tlint. mysterious hind. His first island. discoveries. hie believed to be the outlying, portions of that eastern archipelag() afld wlien the niatives told him of a goreater lali(1 near by, which lie reached a few days later, hie believed that at last hie had rettacied. Cipanui(O, as JaIlani tVPlIi was called. The first nDane given to tMe island was Juiana, in honor of Prince Juan, the son of Ferdin,:nd and Isabella of Aragoii and (Castile. After Ferdlinan(1's death in his honor the -name was chtan-e(1 to Fernandina. Still later it received the name of S8antiago, as a mark of reverence for the patron saint of Spain, and another change~' was uimade a few years afterward, -when the inhlabitants, as a proof of 41wi iety, called it Ave Maria, in honor of the Iloly Virgin. In spile of all thtis (4for~t at establishinig a Spanish name, thie origintal Indi-4an ntamne o)f Cuba, wvhich it bore when the gfreat navigator first landed on its shores, h1'as asserted itself triumphantly through all tlihe centuries awli is now ineradicable. Aboriginal Inhabitants of Cuba. Acordino- t(* tlit accounts given by Spanish writers who were contemporary with the (Iiscovery, anmid the century imim mediate!v following, the aboriginal inhabitants of Cu'iiba were aI prenerous, crentle, hospitable people, by no means ener?'eti(, but heartily cordial and courteous to the strangers who reached their shores. The muilduess of their climate did not stimulate them to much activity in cultivation of the soil, because tropical fruits,and vegetables carme with scarcely an effort on tile part of the natives. Their implements andl utensils were crude and their life siumple. The systemi of government wAas b)y no means comp icated. The island was divitded into nine independent, p~rincipalhities, each llnrler a Cacique, all living in hIarniony, and warfare being almost unknown. Their religion was a peacef ul. one, without huniuan sacrifices or cannibalism, but the priests had great power through their pretense of influence with spirits good and evil. Of all the people discovered by the Spanish in their colonization 4 6`6 4(i6 ~A GLANCE AT CUBA,-N HISTORY. of the western hemisphere, the Cu"Lbans were the most t~ractable to the( influeirces of Christianity so far as thieir willingrness to accept the doetrines was concerned. Christianity, as practiced l~y ORIGINAL CIUBANS the Spanish couiqd-erors,," wNa's' 'sc-arcely thiat of the highlTOTALLY ~ EXTERMINATEI). eSt ty~pe of the falith, anil the hidullcelileIts to aiccept itwere somiewhat violent. Neverltheless it inist-'t be( noted that it is frofl Sp~anish sourices this test uniony -as to the (lociIit y of the Cuban natives coiiies. Under these circuw staii-ces it becomes,, at magfnified crime that the Spanish conquerors absolutely exteruunai-tedl the hundreds of thousands of native Cubllas whioni they folund a[t thie time of ther discov-ery, tand lthat within 1it tie mibre 4I hai a. century there, was absolutely not a trace of ntativ-e stock -to be fouind tanywhere inl the island. When (Co0111n11)u5 -first, resi ed 11 is evNes on the i'sland of Cuba it. seetedl to him i an enchanilted 10ind. IeC walls charm111ed with it's lofty mountains, its beaultiful rivers, an(l its biosso()Iuiino grove's, adin his account of thevoae he saidl 114Wrtin sgreen as AIpril inl Anvoyage "Eert1ifln i1 dlaluisia. The sino-ing of the birds is such lthat it seems tas if one Would never desire to (lepart. TIhlere are flocks of parrots that- obs~cure thie sun. There are trees of a-I h~ouslaud slpecies, each hiavinco its pcarticulair frulit, and] all of marvelous fla-vor." Columibus was first of the opinion that hie h'ad fouind an islaunl, but:, after followi1ng the shores for many miles he, concluded that it wvas (a continent, Ilie retained the latter belief until his delathl for, it was iiot until 1508 that the, island wias circumnavigatted, when it was discoveredI that it was of about the same area as England. In a, subsequient exp~edition lie reached the coast of Soutlh America, but lie had no apprecitation of the magnitude of that continent, and to him Cuba was tfie grandest of his (liscoveries iii the New World. Cuba was t ~vice, visited byr Columbus after is(liscovery, ill Aj1)11, 1494, and agtainl in11 150"2, -,and these visits but confirnied his first. o1)iIni(l regarding the salubrity of the climate and the we-alth of the soil. His sailors wrested from the natives large sums of gold and silver, and this led to the mistaken belief that mines of great richness were within their grasp. Biography furnishes no parallel to the life of Columbus. Great A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. inen there have been who have met with injustice and disappointments, but there is perhaps no other instance of a man whom disappointments and injustice did not dishearten and (lisgust, who had his greatness recognized in his lifetime, and yet was robbed of the rewards that it entitled him to. It is probable that before his death Columbus confided his belief in the wealth to be found in Cuba to his son l)iego Columbus, for in 1511 the latter fitted out an expedition for tie piirpose of colouizingr the island. This company consisted of about 800 inen, under Diego( Velasquez, who had accompanied the great explorer on his secondl voyage. The first settienient was made at Baracoa, in the extremiie eastern section, and this village was tregarde as the capital of the colony for several ye:ars. In the meantime exteilsive settlements had been nladle by the Sp1aniards iii tIle GROWTH OF SETTLEMENTS island of Janiaica, ln(l in 1,511 the towns of Santiago IN CUBA. atnd Trinidadl wer founded on thie southlernt coa~ist of (Cuba, in order that the inh;abitants of the two colonies, mighAt he brought into closer coinimluicaltion. As, irumi cfrat ion i icrealse(1 otthe'r lowns of imtportance spra-ng 1'up, and] the island became tile base for the various operations against 1exico. Iaracota grew 1arelv in population, and the towns of P uerto Princmi e anl Sanct IEspirilus were estabhlishel in the central section, andi San Juan (le los iteniedios oni the north coast. In July, 1515, tIme city of San Cristobal de, la Hiabana was planted, derivingr its nimaimne froul thme great (liscoVerer, but this ianie was transferred in 1519 to the present capital, and the original lown was called B3atabano. In 1518 the capital was fixed at Baracoa, which had by this tinle become a city of considerable imiportance and the diocese of the colony. In 1522 both tie seat of government and the bishopric were remtoved to Santiago ie Cuba. In 1538 Havana wTas reluced] to ashes bya French privateer, and to prevent a. similar (lisaster in future, _the Castillo de la Fuerza, a fortress which still exists, was built by Feriiando de Soto, governor of Cuba, and afterwards famous for his explorations in the southern and western portions of North America, as well as for the discovery of the Mississippi. Using a modern expression, this gcreat fortress, added to her almost A GL4:ANE T17' C.UBAIN HISTOR1 Y. lpwrfect harlbor, gav, e II avalia a w(onlderful b"I(ml," and( the city ex perienced a reinarkable gro(wtll. The Sl)anisli lnerchlltntmeln were a-l tively empcil)yed ill ("i1ca'ryilln thlte wea(l ()f Mc.xico( to (lthe Penilsula, and HI 1a- Vatia was a coi(ilvenieiilt po)rt for themll to secure supplies of )provis ions andl water. In 1549 ( 1onzales Perez de A\gulou) was at. ppoi)lt.ed (governo(r of the islaid, an1d lie was impressed with tllhe beauties tof tlhe city, tll;t (he clhose it. as hlis residence. Severail l of his successolrs follo-wed his exap1111le, anid in 1)589 it was le gally II made thle capital of (Cuba. Thlie early records of the isllid wlere kept in so imlll)erfect a IIIaIIIer that it. is not possible to,give all;ccurate( a(IccouLt f tlhe elarly gov(ernorIs andl tIheir liteutenants. It is ce(rain, 1wever, tl(hat Ill(e seat of go(vlf illino i1)0mota1li\(ce were rlle(l by lieut f ealuts. I; 1 15381 I Ieran dol de Soto, adelantald(o of Floridall, andl als)o governolr of( (FAMOU) S N dAMES ^NA S 'Cubn, landed at Santiago), and remained a few days IN ' CUAN IISTORY. l)(before l e pr(ceedling I le mainland. On his departl(re Ihe left tlhe (() (,vlerllt' 'lt f lthe island in clhalrge of a lad v,!)onia. Isa;bel de Iobadill a, and (gave her for a colleague o111.1Juan (de IHoj;s, who11() hl t )on tilll( been liulltenant governor (of I h1 -Iva na. It is from I this date1 tihat thle g11l traIlsfetrence of the seat of pow(er from Santiago, to H Iavanna niav be said io have, arisen. Don Ant onio de (Chavez aissunmed thlie 'governmnent in 1054-7, an11d lie it was wl\lo gae IIavana11 its first regular supplyl f water, bringingl it. a distance of abolut six miiles from tlhe river ( Chorrera. The early setttlers (ldevoted tllhenselve(s pri(nci)pally to thle raising of cattle, paying vesry little att(fention to agricultural pursulits, or in f;act to any nmeans (f livelihood thalt called for manual labor. Much tiimi' and money were wsasted in exp)lorations for gold andl silver, but tl(hese were invariablly unsucc(essfll, for lwhile thlie p)recious met.als have occasionallhy been found in t-ie island, lie (llantity lhas never been sluficient to r1epa)y tle lab)or ()f tlie search. Notllhing more1( intetxrestingm for the conclu.sion (f th1is chapter c(lt be1 offt'ered tIhan C(ollumbllus' own account of his first view of the island of Cuba. It is as foll(ows: "'bWhen I reached Jluana, T followed its coast to thle westwar(l, ai(d found it so large lthat I tlhought it lmulst be maainland, the provin(le of I(__ I_ "i"~" $ ~ It, , rr W;"P"ii A ~ssrr L ra n Y I ~1 Z c. rl o F-i a ~1L:-~-L* F,II a — ~ e, E i;~2 4fI i -i; E""~~~iir W"+~ a Z" ";i,i rt) U1, ~~ Ed )sl ct, " e Icr o a ~Cj d r cr g WX ff k =1 LIIW,. "I-~~i.~ir i~ O I:: E$ I~fi: n sasr ~rr I o II d ~-~ F-~ j~:~ r~ i~ il ~v C" ~i~ll 1"..,111 QB31 E631 ~I; V 2Xi~I 35: a~~~ ~ ~ rrJ ~" v F.. E; El - LI) c;,, ak I t I Elr n 'c" %~B.e W rj, C3c E LJw r.. ";I o v: "' ~~-~ 4 Os3 u i-i ~e a b (;S;t QI O" ii rrlr PC *i 13 50 r mli:, 1 dv RI;: CiiBL "r" +1 ~~p 31 3~" $ ~I a:~a.~-~~:; ~i' il L1 % C1 or d, i;, 9..~~;:sPI -~-~~r-s:~-*~-~~~s~~-,n~~~ I bll " + 1 ~sr~:; rs,. i ~Q": ~ii4 l Ug ~ rlL, ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ I4;~ii~~~~ 4,I aI4.~~~111~ ~ Q",I ~ ~ ~ V 44 ~~~~'~,~~~~~~~ V A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 471 Cathay; and as I foundllll( neitlher towns nor villages on the sea c(ast, but only somle hlamrlets, witll thew inlhabitlants of wlli(ich I could not 111o(1 c(nversation, b(ecause tll( y all imlm'edialt(y lied, I kept on thlle salme' route, thinking tliat I coulld not fail to liglht u11pln soJse large cities or towns. At lengthl, after tlle p1o(ce(eding' of mlllan Ieagues, asnd fitlfindig that notlling new prles(nte(d itse(lf, ald I1that tl (e coast was lealdinlg n e no rthwarlds (which I wislled to avoid, beclause~ tll wilter hitad alr(ealdy set in, antl it was m11i intcntion to Io( southlw;ards; andl because mo(reover tlhe wind(ls wvere (ontrary), I resolved not to wait for 'a chlange, in thlle we.atlher, but to retlrn to a cer'tain liar- WHAT colJMBlUS TIIOU4IIT bor which I had remarked, and fr>om wlhich I s(ent two OF CUBA. men ashbore to as1'certain wheth-er t(here was any king or large cities in t lat part. 'Tey jiourneyi e for t hree days, an( found countless snmall hamllets, witlh nulll brless inhabit;ants, but with lnth-l ing like order; they therefore returne(d. In the meantine I had learned from somet othllr Indianis, wll om I lad seize(, that this lan was certainly an islalnd; acc'r(lingly, I followed the coast eastward for a distaince of 107 leagues, wllere it en(led in a cale. Fronm this cape I saw another island to the eastward, at a (listance of eighteen leagunes from tlhe forimer, to whlic(l I gave the naIme of -,a Espanola. Tlither I went and followed its northtlern coast (just the( satme as I liad done with the coast of Juana), 118 full miles (due east. Tlhis island, like all others, is extraordinarily larg(e, and( this one extremiely so. In it are many seaports, with 1lwhich nIne tlat I knowv in Christendom can bear conmparisonl, so good an(l c(lapa(lio s tlat it is a wonder to see. T]the latnds are higlh, and the-lre a11(e llany loftly 1mountains, withl whliclh (he islands of Teneriffe clannot be compl)ared. They are all most beautiful, of a1 thousand different shalpes, (accessibl), anld covered with trees of a thousand kinds, of such( greatt lheight that they seem to reach(1 he skies. I am told that tlhe trees never lose their foliage, and I can well understand it, for I oblserved li tht they were as green and luxuriant as in Spain in the montlh of May. Some were in bloom, others bearing fruit, and others otlherwise, accordlimg to their nature. The niglitiingale was singing, as well as otiler little birds of a thousand different kIinds, and tliat in Novenber, tie month in which I Swas roaming amongst them. There are 1)alm tr:es of six or eight kinds, wonderful theni. palm ciol~~~~~~~~~~~~~tn knswnl 472 A GLANCE AT CUBAN H1ISTORY. in their beautiflll variety; but this is the case with all other trees and fruits and grasses. It contains extraordinary pine groves and veiry extensive plains. There is also honey and a great variety of birds, anl many different kinds of fruits. In the interior there are many mines of metals, and a population innumerable." No one can be absolutely certain where the bones of the great discoverer, Christopher Columbus, now rest. What purported to be his remains had been removed from Santo D)omingl() many years ago( by tlle Spanish for intermnent in Hlavana. But otlher excavations ill Sallnt Domingo at a later time seeIned to prove conclusively that the coffin thus removed was not that of Columbus. What was identified as his own coffin was found in a neighboring tomb and according to the people of Santo Domingo, and the best students of such affairs, still remains in that city. The casket purporting to contain the ashes of Columbus was received in Spain with great honor and given interment there. Cubans and Americans alike can well afford to permit Spain any sentimental satisfaction she may get out of her conviction that the dust of the great explorer rests in Spanish soil. CHAPTER XXXIII. FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. How Spain Gained Her Hold on Cuba-Failing Efforts to Change the Indian Name of the Island-First Settlement Made by the Spaniards-When Santiago Was the Capital-Rapid Increase of the Population and Commerce-The First American Siege of Havana-Disastrous Losses in the British Army and Navy-Capture of the City-Restoration of Cuba to the Spaniards-When Oppression and Misrule Multiplied-The Slave Trade Flourishing-The Beginning of Insurrections-The Ten Years' War-The Murder of the Students-The Treaty of Zanjon -The Coming of Weyler. T HIIE history of Cuba, from the tilme of its discovery to the day whetl Spain surrendered by compulsion her claim to the island, has been one long record of oppression and crime. The peaceful inhabitants who were in possession when the explorers first touched the soil were slaughitered and enslaved, and this was the commencement of a rule where might was master, and a government that claimed all and gave nothing in return. For over 400 years Spain retained her hold on this beautiful land, and by her short sighted policy of oppression she succeeded in bringing misery and death, not only to the original inlhabitants, but also to the descendants of her own people, who, under kindlier rule, would have been loyal subjects of the crown. Juana was the name given to the island of Cuba at the time of its discovery by Columbus. This was in honor of Prince John, the son of Ferdinand and Isabella, under whose patronage the great navigator made the voyages which resulted in giving to Spain new countries to conquer and new peoples to despoil. When the Spanish began to colonize the island, they changed its name to Fernandina, and again a few years later to Santiago. After- CUBA TIE NAME GIVEN BY wards, probably to demonstrate their great piety, THE INDINS. tley called it Ave Maria. But while the conquerIrs succeeded eventually in obliterating all trace of the original 473 474 FROM COLUMIB3US TO() (I EF LER. inhabitants, the Indian naime still clings to the island, and as Cuba it will probably be known to the end of time. The Sp)anish explorers found in Cuba a race of inoffensive and friendly people, who received tlhem( witil every mark of confidence and regard. They took possession of the island, ilurdered and enslaved the inlabitants, and in little 1more th1an a cenltury from the time of the landing of Columbus, the adventurers who followedl hi hi had waged a war of extermination so successfully that in all Cuba there was hardly a native to be found. The first permanent settlemlllenlt nade by tlhe Spaniards was at tle town of Baracoa, not far from the extremne eastern point of the island, and for many years this settlement was reg4allrded as the capital of the colony. In 1514 the towns of Trinidad and Santiago dte Cuba were founded on the south coast, and in 1.522 the seat of governmlent wtas removed to the last lnamed city, which by this tine had greatly increased in population and iwealth, Iand was the mnetrolpolis of the island. A settlement was made where the town of Batabano now stands, in 1515, and was called San Cristobal de la Iavana, in honor of the great discoverer, but four years later the name was transferred to the city on thle north coast which is now the capital. The island increased rapidly in population, the wonderful fertility of the soil, and the unlimited opportunities for acquiring wealtl malkilng it a Mecca for thousands of emigranlts from the motller country. During the time of the conquest of iMexico, Iavana was an outfitting point for the expeditions, and immense profits were realized from the sale of provisions and supplies for the armniy of invasion. During the early history of the island, tlhe cities of the coast suffered great losses from tlhe continual and deterlined aLttacks of pirates, whose ships infested the West Indian waters. At one tine Santiago was almost depopulated on account of the depredaDEPREDATIONS tions of thlese rovers of the seas. In July, 1762, the OF TIlE BUCCANEERS. English Armada, commanded by Lord Albemarle and Admiral Pococke, appeared off tle coast of Cuba witl] an armament of nineteen ships of the line, six frigates and nearly 200 transports and slave ships. The object of the expedition was the capture of the city of I-avana. FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER.45 475 Jame Trubul, inhis"1 Istoy of Conlnecticuit," gives the followlug account of the siege of the city, and incidentally mnations the part taken by Amierican soldiers in the war: Lord Albemiarle was app~ointedi to com~mand the operations by land. His lordship, had been trained to war fromt his youthl, under the coinmand of the duk-e of Clummberland. The fleet dest ined for time service was under command of Admiral Pococke, wvho had lbefore colmmandled with such suiccess iii the East Indlies. The object of the expedition was lHav~ana. -In this city centeredl tbe whlole, trtade anld navitga-tion of the Spanish West indlies. 'IThe fleet, sa,(iled( froim Por-t silmi)th onII the 5th of Marc. Tis ws t bereiifored y a squadron fromn Martinique, unuder commnitand of Sir Jamtes Douiglass18. On thle 27tli() of-1 My, two, fleets formed a junction aIt Cape, Nicmhoa, the nortliwe"st point o)f ILispainiola. The fleet (consisted of thirty-s even shiips o)f war, with nearly an hundred and fifty transports. The land force o)ii bolard was about ten thousand mnen. Fouir thousand regular troops from New York~ were ordered to join them at thet( Ilavana. A cous,-,id1erab1le numberl of })rovincials enlistedl under their own oAttcers, anel served iii this ard-uous enterprise. The whole land force, when collectedl, would amount. to about fifteen or sixteen thousandl men. The admiral was not insensible how muhthe success of the expedition depended on (lispatclh, that it might lbe carriedl into execution before the comingr on of the hurricane mnonths. Therefore, instead of keepingr the( commnon traick of the gyalleons. DANGEROUS NAVIGATION TO to time north of Cuba, which was maucl the,safest, REACH HAVANA. thoughl far the most tedious p~assagre, lIe( determined to lplr-sle hIs!; (course fromt east to west, thirought the Straits of Bahania. This is a narrow passagre, about s-,even huindred miles inl length. It is bounded on the right and] left with so many shoals amid sands that the, navigration is (lallgerous for sillsips. Yet such were the cautions adn( admirable dispositions of the( a'(llui1ral thcat he carriedl this fleet of nearly two huniired sail safJely throtigh this lperilouls passage. On the 5th of June, Havana, the object of this longT voyagle, aInd of so many anxious hopes and fears, ipresented itself to the view of the fleet and army. On the 17th the troops were landled, andl for more than two months every exertion of courage, every art of war, with the most in 476 FROAM COLLUMBIt( T TO I'tEYLER. vincible p)atiencle andl )perseverance, l under a:lllost insllsperable dific(lilties, wiere unitedly emllployed by offilcels;1nd soldites, by the fleet and llarmy, for the relductioln of this ilmportant islalnd. Tie 11fortresses we(re strong by natlre and art. The en'llly nllllae a gallal(t and noble defens-. '1lle climlate was lburnillg, land tlle wallnt of water gtreat a1nd almlost iI'iufferably distiressing. Never were Britisl valor and( resolution )1'p to a severer trial. SoimeI of the soldiers droplped o down dead(, i1:rler' tlhe prelsslure of ieat, thlirst and fatigue. IBefoe thle ni(ld(le of Juily the Iarmy, in this unwholesome and burning region, an(ld l' iier tlhe rigor of sucl ex(xtraordinarl services, was lreducedt to half its original nll111brs. Fie( thelosalid soldiers and thlree thousx1and seam11en were ill at one ti;1ie. '11e lheairts of tilh most sanguine sunk within them whlile t lhe' s; t his fine army wasting by disease, and they could not but treomble for that noble fleet whicih l1ad so long b(een expo)sed along thIl. otpei slhore~ and ullst, in all human probability, suffer inevitable ruin should the hurric'ane seas()n c(e on e o before the reducttion (;i tlhe place. As the season adrvanced the pro(spect grevw mio'e anJ mo1re uInfavorable. lBut when tlhe troo)ps were onl tle point of total desipondenc'y tllhe arrival of troolps flrom North America revived their droo)ping spirits, gave fresl vigor to their o)perations, n11d wa\s of 1lte m(ost sigiial servic(e. Suchl was the, zeal of the New EIglan(ers in his majesty's service, that not only mtany of t l(em e(nlisted withl a ptiarticular viiew to the reduction of Havana; but such of thlem as iad assisted in NOTABLE ZEAL tbte conqu(est of Martinique, and by reason of sickness OF EARLY AMERIO(N SOLDIERS hlad( set off in three ships for their native country for their recovery, soon finding their healtl restored, ordered the sliips about, and steering dlirectly for lavrana, shared in the Langers and honors of tlhat glorious enterprise. In tlhe acquisition of Havana were combined all the advantages that coul(l be procured in war. It was a military victory of the first magnitu(de; it was equal to the greatest naval victory by its effects on the marine of the Spaniards, who lost on that occasion a whole fleet. The vast quantity of tobacco and sugar collected at ITavana on the Spanish monarch's account, sold on the spot, exclusive of the slips and merchandise sent to and sold in England, for seven hundred thousand pounds, which was dividedl amongst the conquerors. FROM COLU CMBUS TO WEYLER. 477 Had England pursued the policy at this time which has since imade her the greatest nation on the globe, and retained possession of Cuba, the map of the western worldl, and of Nortl America in particular, would undoubtedly present a different appearance from what it does to-day. Iut the men who shaped the conduct of Great Britain's affairs at that date did not take advantagt, of the victory, and the peace treaty of Paris was signed, whlichl gave back to Spain, Cuba and the Philippines. Ih'll Ipe'ac(' havinig b(ee( co(ncludlle in 1T(;', the Conde de Ricla arrived at I avana on the }th of Junell, brillging tlhe powers conferred by the treaty for tile restolraltinl of the Britishl conquests in tlle island of Cuba, a111d Iac'(compialn led bl y 'en(eral 1 ()l illy, witll four ships of the line, a numnber of transports, and 2,000 nmen for tihe supply of tlhe garrison. O)n their arrival they were received by the English with every demonstration of respect. On the 7th of July the keys of the city were formally dlelivered up to the Conde d(e Iicla, on whom the government had been confelrrle, and the Einglish garrlison was embarked on its return to Europe. Tlme restoration of the island to the Spaniards is regarded by the native writers as the true era from whence its aggrandizement and prosperity are to be dated. For a time the island was governed in a manner that called for slight criticism. Public assemblies of citizens were held to elect the members of the corporations; free and bold charges were made and sustained against governors; and no WHEN CU WAS HONESTLY taxation was permitted which was not sanctioned by GOVERNEI. these bodies, who exercised the same prerogatives in the Spanish peninsula, during the long suspension of representative government. Cuba, on her part, repaid the liberality of the mother country by an unwavering loyalty. Unseduced by the alluring prospect of independence, and undismayed by repeated invasions from foreign powers, she shut her eyes to the former and resisted the latter, at the liberal expense of the treasures of the island, and the lives of the inhabitants. But gradually the liberties of the people were curtailed, while the demands of their rulers became more and more oppressive. In 1834 478 4,)()f[ C[()I), lM,, h( '17s'() I 'E,11 IJR. (leeneral Ta'on was apploilted captai-general of (llub~a, and arrived iln I a allna. to assui e the d(lti ies of the ofice. lie was o0ne of the Spanish fficers who 1(had l suffered defeat in the war for tlhe independence of the Spanish colonies in South Anmerica, and was a mtlan of narrow views, unrea;sonable prejuldices, a1d ul ncommonlo stubbornness of character. During his terl of office le lwas as severe with the ('ubans as he was lenient witl the old Spaniards, who alone were ' lappointed to offices of honor and profit under tle govlernment. Such a policy worked out a breacll between Cubans and Slpaniards, wid( enollg to p)revel t hltem combining:against misrule. Taxation igrew lhelvier flro')m ytar to year, an(ld Cul)a pers'ecution increased, lno by 1sun1 ary ex)pulsion of Slus{pected parties, )now tlhroughl tiall ofthers by court-nlartial, underl a royal d(lecree which declaeired tlhat the kingl of Spain, "for tlie iim)ortant end of ipreserving in tltat precious islkandl (C(uba) his legitimate sovereign ABISOLUTI E W aE lhority and public tra (1quillity through proper GILVEN TO THIE (CAITAIN.-GENE I{AL. m1leans, h1ls resolved, in accordance with tlhe opinion of his council of miinisters, to give to your excellency the fullest authority, bestowing upon you all the powers wlhich by royal ordinances are granted to the governors of besieged cities. In consequence of this his majesty gives to your excellency the most complete and unbounded power." The slave tradle continued to flourish between Africa and Cuba, to the great advantage of tlie Spaniards who controlled that concession, and who, in the face of their enormous profits from it, did not complain;f the growing taxation. A case of Cuban court-lmartialing occurred during the year 1844, 1when, in consequence of the report of a plot among the African slaves of the sugar plantations about Matanzas for a rising against the white people, several officers of tlhe perlnanent military commission at Ilavana for tle trial of political offences, were detailed to form a courtmnartial undler the presideincy of Brigadier-General Salas at Matanzas, in order to trace out the reported plot and punisl the culprits. Many persons were arrested and closely examined, but as by the usual modtl of examination no clue to the alleged plot was found, the pros.ecution d(eterlmlined to resort to torture, the unwilling witness being flogedl while stretched face downward on a ladder. This process of elicitirng, FROM CO7I'LV O 1 U+)7 4 "M evidence, first a1p1)1ied to African shi yes, was 80011 extelldedl to free (0-(I oreCl creoles., anti then into the, circle, of A-k~ti to peop~le. Ouit of 3,0O76 prisoners placed on tri~al, 1,846) Were found guiilty, and punished by (leath, baihmn, orsentences to hard labor for varyingr terms. This affair was only oiie of many instances of outragres on them j)eople of Cuiba, which finally led up to the insurrections of 1849-18051, and the bloody ten years' war, which conmmenced in 1868. In this latter revolution some of tile most hor- BUTALITY 01 rible, crimlles ever Iperlpetratedl by peo.ple who claim.1 TILE VOLUNTEER SOLDIERS. 'Coiiiectioii with aI civilized nation were, committed by I lie homle gcualrds. These Were o)rganlizations of Sptanish residenits o)f t he istland, who volunteered to assist in p~utting downIi tile insurrectlion. Their first feat of tarms at H avana, was to fire volley after volley iipoii the maul entr-aice, of aI theatere, and on the polas i hey caine out at -the end of Ca pla y, perfornlmedl, it was supposed, for the benefit o)f the insurg-ents, the performllers beingr Cuibans. Their next exploit, was an assault upon then residlence of a promidnenlt Cuban grentlentanl, who happened to be away with his fauiily att the timie in onie of his suglar estates, fortunately for their ipelsonal safety; but their rich houisehdold go als were despoiled by the miscreants. Later on, they deposed CcaptainGeneral Dulce and constrtained him to return to Spain, smartinog under the, indfignity offered him and the homne groveruntuent, which had appointed Miml only a few mionths previous to his l-awless (leposition. But the authorities at Madlrid submitted to the outragoe, an(1 this emboldened the volunteers, who soon deposed BrDaie-t nrlLpezPinto fromt the grovernorship of Mlattanzas, a~nd be~gat-n to turn o)ut in force throughlout the country, wihere many i'lnnocent men,~ woV en11(1 ld chlildrenl were wantonly murdered by them. Hundreds Of Cubans11,8 were torn from their families and shipped off under volunteer escort to distant penal colonies of Spain. In November, 1871, forty-three medical studleuts THIE STORY OF I ~~~~~~THlE UNFORTUNATE of the University of Havana were arrested a~nd sub- STUDE)NT~S jected to trial by court-martial, at the demand of the volunteers. The cause allegyed was that these boys while at the greneral cemetery had scratched the glass plate of a vault containing the remains of a volunteer. The students were defended by an officer 480 FROM COTlJIBUS 7) Il EYLER. of the S:panlish larlS, anld tlhe trial resllltted inl their acquittal. But:lhe volunteerls d(lellatllled a new triall, atd the capt.ain-general coImplied with their wishl, by ordering a court of five army officers with nline volunteer cal)t.aii s landt a mlajor of the army to conduct the prosecu. tion. These o(1iceris, organiized iiito a court-martial, soon condemned eight of the unfortun-ate 1b)ys to deaIth, while their remaining comn. planions were sentencled to hard llabor. ()n the following day, NovemIber 27, 15,000 volunteers turned out n11der( aliIllrms and11 thlle dleatll-dl)oo(ted boys were slhot by a detac'hment froim i tat forceT. This lhlinous (1eed Iproduced consternal tio tlhroughout Cuba, ld11(1 elicited( a l) urst o{f inldigniltion from) every c'ivilized natlion on the face off tle globe. ]Evenl the Spanish parlia'llent execrated lie I avana volinitmeers, bult requiredl no 11 tollneillent fr thlie crile. The ten years' war was endled in February, 1878, by what is known as the treaty of Zanjon. By this treaty the Spanish government promised mlany refolIrms, but subselluent events showed tlat the painful lessonl of tile war wa\s entirely lost (on thle tmotlher country. Instead of inlaugurating al redeeitiig,policy tllat would i eail the recent wounds, allay publlic anxiety, and (l-uenchl tlhe thirst for justice felt by the people, who were desirous to enjoy their natural rights, the government, while lavish in promises of reform, persiste(l in carrying on, unchanged, its old and crafty system, the groundwork of which continued to be the same, namely: To exclude every native Cuban from every office that could give him any effective influence and intervention in public affairs; the ungovernable exploitation of the colonists' labor for the benefit of Spanish commerce and Spanish bureaucracy, both civil and military. To carry out the latter purpose it was necessary to maintain the former at any cost. Under these circumstances it is not surprising that the people of the island who had taken part in the heroic struggle for their liberty soon began to make preparations for another rebelBEGINNING PREP- lion. They had had enough of promises that were AmATIONS FOR ANOTHER WAR. made only to be broken, and were determined that when the time was ripe for them to again take up arms against their oppressors, they would continue the contest until the last trace of Spanish rule was banished from the island forever. FR()AM C() I IJAI [/S I() 'I V EYLR. 481 During, t lle period ilnnellildately pr(eceding the outbreak of the last. Cubanll insllrrectiontl, tlhe islanld tldvancedl( in.ariculture and coiimmerce with reI'iarkable rallpid ity. Even tlie loppression of Spanish rule and the enolrltoius volnume of money drained fromn the island by oppressive taxation ald dishonest officiials froil Spain were unable to prevent progress. By nothing is 11 ti( Iarvelous fultlt re of tlhe islIad m-ore) plainly iprophesied than by a1 stl(ly of Iliese facts. The fruitfulness of the island was such thlat. its pro(luction wnas lable to outstrip even the rapacity of Spain. Individliails sulffere(d poverly and (o)opression by this drain upon tlhe isl;land,:d11 still it struggledf( folr rwardt into a wilder commlerce an(d itore iIlut ilte associationll with the rest of tlie world. Finally, driven by every Selt ienl ll llt t1t akes (len strive for riglhteo usnes(s, j usl ice anl fr(eedo)lm, the p)eople rose against thlleir oppressors. So began the revolution of 1S95. (ubbans (f all cla.'sses flocked to the standlards of the leaders. Spain realized that this was to be the supi-en(e effort of the revolutionists, and sent Campos, her greatest general, to cru1sh them. lie failed and was recalled. Then came WeylerWeyler tlhe "butcher." For over 400 years Cuba had been under the heel of Spanish cruelty, but tlhe coming of Weyler was the begiinnin of the end. CHAPTER XXXIV. INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. No Peace for the Oppressed Island-South American Patriots Attempt to Free CubaThe Work of Filibusters-Outbreak of the Ten Years' War-Cubans Adopt a Declaration of Independence-Progress of the Insurrection-Sympathy from the Republics of South and North America-Years of Blood and Warfare-Capture of the Virginius and Execution of American Citizens-General Martinez Campos in Command-A Treaty of Peace between Spanish and Insurgents-Abolition of Slavery in the Island-Cuban Patriots Continue Active-Outbreak of the Last Insurrection-Uselessness of the Trocha-Mlaceo's Campaign in Pinar del Rio-Weyler Succeeds Campos-The Reconcentration Decree. F OI 11Oea111R 1 tll llundr(d years there hlas been 1no tniIe in the island of Cuba when there was absolute peace. Occasionally sonme years would elapse without active warfare, but even then revolutionary leaders were constantly at work planning rebellion against Spanish domination. For a long tite the better class of citizens of the island was not in sympathy with these insurrections, preferring to bear tlih ills of Spanish misrule rather than to wage a war in which they recognized their own inability to carry it unaided to a successful close. JUnder tlhese circumstances, failure was the inevitable result of each succe(edino, effort. After the Spanish colonies in the western world had gained their liberty, under tle leadershiI) of Simlon Bolivar, that hero of South American independence determined that Cuba also should be free. Ie used every means in his power to secure the support of the United States in his undertalkin,, but in this he was unsuccessful, and the Spanish authorities having put to death a number of coummissioners who had been sent by himl to Cuba for the purpose of inciting rebellion, he was forced to ablandon the attempt. Bolivar converted some of the leading men of the island to the home rule idea, however, and they took up the task of bringing others to their 482 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. views. Fro'i 18S48 1854 a iinuliber of uprisings took place, and in these the Cubansl were assistel lby mlen froml tlhe southern portion of the United States, who were l IE1 scheminig for (Cubal ann1xation. The prin(cipal move- 1O) 1 m11ent of this chlara cter as under ws ( command (of Narcisco Lopez, a native of Veinezuela, who hlad bee( a genIeral ill tih Sp1anish army. Thes scco (nd in com()mlland was W. S. (Crittenden of (KeIUtucky, a X'est P'oint gra(duate, and thou(gh but twlenty-eigh(t years of tage, a hero of ll( Mexican war.ll They set sail froimi New Orleans witlh; forc e of abolt;0OO men, an1d captured the town of (Ctlrdenas, on tlle north coatst of (Cu1ba. They Imet with no encourageuent from the peop)le of the island, however, and realizing thalt witlout tlhat sIupport tlhey (cou111 not hope to accomplisl any lasting results, the inlvaders returne(41 to thle Unitled Stlates. Shortly aIfter this fiasco, lopez and (1rit(ctnden orgalnize(d alo(tlhlr expedition and set sail for (7uba, landing(l at 11ahia IIoondal. They mlrclhed a few miles into the interior, where a det;c.l hiiient of i Fle Spanislh armyl commannded by (xeneral 1Ieina met tlheli and( gave blttllie. T''1l force under Lopez gained an easy vi(ctory, and tlhe Spanish general was killed. But this smuccess was only mIollentary, for they were in a section of the island whlere, the SpIanisl forces ere the strongest and thle revolutionary sentiment t-he weakest, and(1 Lopez soon found himself overIpowered. Crittenden Ii1ad remai;tedI at the coast for the purpose of formring a base of operatilons, and (hearing notlhing from Lopez he realized thlat tlhe movement was a failure. lie attempltEXECUTION (ed to sc'ape' ly, t- akilng to tli e s;e ii op(l'n 1)o)llts, llbut (I was calptulred, with fifty of hlis enout, by the Spanislh admiiral, Brecstillo, and all were executed Inderl the walls of the fort. Lopez found soiiie sympl)athizers, but there was no demnonstration in his favor as he hlad expected, and his armiy was easily dispersed. lie was captulred and put to deatli with the garrote in Iavana. There were a number of unimportlat uprisins (lrilng the next few yeaSrs, but none of any consequence until after tlle civil war in the United( States. On October 10, 1868, an insurrection broke out which was tlie coin 484 INSURREICTIOAS IN CUBlA. mencemenet of the bitter rTen Ye1ars1'. rThe fact t lhat the lnotlher country was in the midi(st of iInternall dissensions wlhic'h thllreatened to( overthrow the governmlent, caulse(d the revolution{:ary leaders in Cuba1 to hasten the movemnent, anld gave tlhenl h1ope of success. A declaration of independence was issued (ated d a Manzanillo, October 10, wwhich thus stated the reasons for and tlie object of the mnovelenlt: "In arming ourselves aga"inllst the t-yra.ncal gr:ic overirnl1entt of Splail we must, according to precedentl in 1al civilized cou)1t ries, proclaim before the world the caullse that 11 illlels us to tlake tlli: step, whicll, tholgl likely to entail consi(lerable disturbances upon tile pWelsent, will insutre tlhe halppiness of tlhe future. "It is well known that Spain Y goverIns tle islai(nd of Cubl)a withl anl iron and bloo(lstained hand(. The fornmer h1oltds tlhe la;ttier dleprived ' political, civil, and religious liblerty. 11(ence tlie uInfortunate Cubans being illega-lly prosecuted andl thrown ilnto exile or execute(l by niitPtary coImmllissionerls in times of peace,; hence their being kelpt from( public tneetings and forbidden to speak or write o1n alffairs of statel; hence tIheli relmonstrlances against the evils that atflict tlhem bei)ngl lookeld on as t.lhe proceedings of rebels, from tlhe fact that they are bound to keep sile(lt and obey; hence the never-ending p)lgllea of hlungry officials froml Sp)ai to devour the product of their industry and labor; THE FIRST CUBAN hence their exclusiton froml public stations and want of DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. opportunity to skill thetnmselves in tlie art of government; hence the restrictions to which public instruction with them is subjected, in order to keep tlhemL so igoruant as not to be able to know and enforce their rights in any shape (or fori'i whatever; hence the navy and standing army, which are kept upon1) their country iat an enormous expenditure fromn their own wealth, to m1nake the1mn bend their knees and submit their necks to the iron yoke that dlisgraces theill. Hence the grinding taxation under which tley labor, and which would make them all perish in misery but for the marvelous fertility of the soil. "To the God of our conscience and to all civilized inations we submit the sincerity of our purpose. Vengeance does not nislead us, nor is ambition our guide. We only want to be free and see all men with us equally free, as the Creator intended all mankind to be. Our earnest belief is that all men are brethren. IHence our love of toleration, orlder, 1NSi1'\1'\iC7'i'ON'S1 IN CU( './l. 4iS, andl justfice* in every respect. W\e desi i1 t le gIluIl al )l litiol to shi vel-y, with illdemnificaltion; we admire liniversal Sliffirage, as it illsIr'Ies! the sovereignty of the p)eople; we demand a religious regard for the in.alien able riohlts of ialn as tle basis of freedom 1and nationall grealtness." The mnoveeniet spread ratpidly over tle whole of the ealstern and central departmnents. Ten days later, the gelneral-in-chief of the Cub.in forces, (Carlos Manuel (lespedes, and thle inmebers of the provisionial,gv(1ernTILent ad(lressed a, let ter to the gov)ernmlent of thle United( Stat(es, il Alwhich they Iaskedt for recogiit.ion as belligerents, a11ld gave the i foll\owi11 accolunt of their strl'e(1ng1: "We now h1old iiuch 1more thlan fifty league(s of Ith(e iit(eriio of( thlis island in the eastern (dlepartlIeent, uamong which are the 1pe(ple) (or co(mnunllities) of Jilgani, lTunas, Ilaire, YaIra, 1BarranIcas, l)alil, ( til lt(, lt 11 -barcadero, Guis;a, aIl( Ilorno, besides the cities of BIayvaio and Ilolguin, in all numberino 107,85.3 hiinhabitants, who (bey us, and have swoJrn to shel to le last drop) of blood ill ou01 (callse. ()Nl)IrlOS In the mentioned city of l'Bay:amuo we Ihave establishel a p1)rvisiona l g'ovternment an (l formeil'tl (our general Ivltl (lniarters, where wl e 11old1(1 ore than.1' o0() f thle enellvy prisoners, taken fromni tle S)paniishl;armvy, imong, whom are generalls an;l governors of highl rank. All this ]ias been acco(mpllished in ten (ldys, without other resources tlan tliose offered by tile country we lhave passed throuhl, without othler arms tlhan tlhose tak(en from, the enemy, and without other losses than three or four killed and six or eight wounded." Front the beginning of this luprising, the C(uba1 insurgoents Illet with the Imost cordial sylmlpathv in South Almerica. Tl'le g(overnnllll( s of Chili and 1)eru forlmally recognized the revoluitionists. A letter wr'itte by the president of tPer to Genera l Cespedes, "Caf tie Liberating Army of Cuba/," conltained the followingl parlagrall: "The president of Peru sympathizes deeply with tle noble cause of whiclh your excellency constitutes hinself the worthy champion, alnd hlt will doI his utmost to mark tlie interest which that island, s worthtll of talkinl its place with the civilized nations of tle world, inspires him witl. The Peruvian government recognizes as belliogerents tlie party which is fighting for the independence of Cuba, anld will strive its ltost to secure their recognition as such by other nations; and likewise that the t184<; A'.S'A I'AAI'L7( 'I().\S ' I N ( ) 7'/-. 'wlv i soi)ll1d e I( lper1'l N, eL' III (,e11 l ie it (o['IIo\'imit 'y wi' 11 iileti(, I tioilial tlS;I I S (1 11 ]: I S. Tile sy. plati| lty i I ttll t I e o I t r re i ll ) is wa s (p ialli 01spl | 5 oke. I t t li. I l1itted Slatc s, lIublic o()illio I.s v8 'l r sto I()1 ill \r o( 1' f t ( ilstli'h Its, t111(1 SId stItved itself ii, lare InIieilieI of *1 iass 1I1(I lleetinls, ill n 'so()]lutions ill clon I l-tess, alnd i11 thlII littilt o t11 of t a II liIil b('l ~>1s'(,1 11}1 l'Sr11t 'itir~ 2~c iitJut 10118 111 ( (, 1(1i iit I lieii. 11.$ (nil 0 8 iii i.iil i 1H rSII)lsEN (Gr ANT; ex)1 pedit ions. T('llis symipalil lv was also) expressIed ill IN\Sl!fm ~jz inhuumui COURTYARD OF CUBAN HOUSE, HAVANA Like the houses inl ost Spaislh Amiericau countries the residencees of Cb are I eourtyard or patio i the ceiter Th1is i ornamented with all sorts of tropica flowers sd f becomnes thle geueral resting-place asd living rmo for thle family asid teier giests. INSURRECTIO-IO\'.S IN C(UBA. 489 intendedl to land mllen IIl an(1arms in ('Cubl>a for thll( insurgetnt army. The crew vwas tak(en to Sanllliaglo (e Cuba, where fifty-tllree of thieir nunlmbe, incluliing C(;tIain F1rye(, were sllauglt- Tl FAMOU CASE OF TIlE cred. Tlceir relaining companions, to tlhe nurmber of II. sollme 130, would lhave shared the same fate, but for the sutdden altppearance of the British sloop-of-war, Niobe, llnder (Comnmand(er Lorrlin, whllo pereptorily re( uired tlle governor (f the provine. to stopl hlis llood(ly wAork. Thle 'l livers;sl excitietllent in tle TUnited States at thle conlduct of the Spanish atllt( ritices in this affair, for a time appIeared to mlake a war let:ween the Unit(d Staltes and S)pain inevit able, and the Cubans hoped thllt 1su1h Ia war woutl (lll ause tle imlme(diate expulsion of the Spania.rdls frolm the islalnd. Thl'e Ilhol)es tihus rised( were, however, doomed to disappi)ioilntent, as the dipi)lomatic negtic n( titons opened between the United States and Sp)ain led to a peaceable settlement of thee whole( difficulty. ID)luing 1874, fresh troops from Spain took tIle field by thousands,;the Slanish forces h ving sistained( very heavy losses in thle preceding year. A lull ensued inl tlle insurrecotionary districts, with tlle exception of Canilaguey and eastern Cuba, lwhere the insllrgents attacked every now and then the Spanish cuolumns escorting hea(vy trains of war materials and pro visions, which were usually captured by tle Cubltan forces. Lutt meantlime partisan strife raised its ielad amiong tie struggling Clubans, and eventually their numbeiii r was reduced to barely 5,000 men, sc(attered in bands of a few hundlred each. But even tlese fenw mnen were1 enabled by their mnighty ally, thle climate, to cause tlhe Spanish troops severe losses by steadily hlarassilng them. Such losses were nevertheless amply covered with 25,000 men, who arrived from Spain under the leadership of General Martinez Campos, who was given tlle command of the Spanish forces in Cuba. TIe deployed his troop as he deemed best for a decisive camipaign, but seeing ithem frequently baffled in eastern Cuba and constantly harassed in the central portion of the island, CUBIANS AND SPANISI[ TIRE he finally resorted to negotiations with insurgent OPANS TFARE OF WARFARE. chieftains to bring the war to an end. Success rewarlded his efforts in this direction, for early in the year 1878 an armistice was agreed to between the belligerents in Camaguey, where 490 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. the seat of the insurgent government was at the time, and here the Cuban chamber of deputies held a session to consider the overtures of General Campos for peace. The chamber appointed a committee of nine members to wait on General Vicente Garcia, who had been recently chosen president of the tottering republic of Cuba, and arrange for a meeting. This meeting took place shortly afterwards at Zanjon, in the district of Camaguey. There appeared on the part of Spain, General Campos with a few officers of his staff, and on the part of Cuba, President Garcia, with the committee above mentioned. At that meeting the remaining insurgent forces in war-torn Cuba capitulated, conditional upon the introduction of various government reforms throughout the island. This war, which lasted for ten years, cost Spain 300,000,000 pesos and 100,000 men, many of whom were victims of yellow fever. Its cost to Cuba in the lives of her sons cannot be accurately stated, but Cuban authorities place the number at from 40,000 to 50,000. Slavery in the island was abolished in 1880, and this caused fresh disturbances, as the majority of the slave-holders received no compensation. The introduction of the Spanish constitution in 1884 brought little benefit to the people, and their condition continually grew worse instead of better. The Cuban exiles in the United States and in Costa Rica, Honduras, Santo Domingo, and other parts of Spanish America, continued to plan for the freedom of their beloved island. They organized clubs, collected a war fund, purchased munitions of war, and laid plans with their colmpatriots in Cuba for a new struggle for independence. There were 140 revolutionary clubs in North and South America, Cuba, and the other West India islands, affiliated under the name of the revolutionary party, ready to support an uprising with financial and FORMING PLANS moral aid. There were fire-arms on the island that FOR A ~EW ISURRECTION. had remained concealed since the former war, some had been bought from corrupt custodians of the government arsenals, and many were smuggled in and hidden away. An expedition that planned to sail in the yacht Lagonda from, Fernandina, Florida, on January 14, 1895, was broken up by the United States authorities, General Antonio Maceo, its leader, with Jose Marti, INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 491 the political organizer of the new movement, went to Santo Domingo, where they could confer with the revolutionist leaders living in Cuba. The plan of the revolutionists was to rise simultaneously in six provinces on February 24. The leaders on the island and the organizers abroad had(. a thorough understanding. The insurrection broke out on tlhe appointed dtay, but only in Santiago, Santa Clara, and Matanzas. The latter two are comparatively populous provinces, in which the national troops could occupy strategic points and begin effective offensive operations; but in the wooded, mountainous province of Santiago the insurgents knew plenty of hiding places from whidh they could harass and graldually exterminate the Spanish troops. During the Ten Years' war a Spanislh engineer conceived the idea of separating that part of the island where the insurgents were in active operation from that part of it where there was no insurrection. For this purpose he proposed the construction of a line between Jucaro, on the south coast, and Moron, on the Junico river, near the north coast. By this line it was proposed to confine the insurrection to the east, where it had begun, and thus prevent its spreading. This line was termed a trocha, which simply signifies a way or path across a country, without regard to its topography or other roads, such as is often cut through a forest to designate the limits of a territory or to make a boundary. The military authorities entered upon the establishment of the line at once, and such stress was laid upon its CONSTRUCTION OF THE TROCIA AND construction by the Spaniards that it came to be con- ITS FAILURE. sidered as impregnable as the great wall of China. But when numerous insurgent chiefs had crossed it and re-crossed it, and the old warrior, Maximo Gomez, had crossed it in company with his wife and servants, the military authorities began to wake up to the worthlessness of their trocha. Although it was condemned by both Captains-General Balmaceda and Campos, when the latter returned to the island in 1895 and found that the insurgents had entered Camaguey, he hastily distributed nearly 50,000 soldiers along the old line between Jucaro and Moron, hoping to keep the enemy from entering the province of Santa Clara. Forts were rapidly constructed, and trees and undergrowth cleared away for 200 yards each side of the railroad track which ran along the 492 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. line; and thus came into existence for a second time the old trocha as a military line. Scarcely did Cainpos get his boundary line into effective shape before Gomez, with his retinue of Camaguey recruits crossed it into tlle jurisdiction of Santo Espiritu, where he immediately began a series of movements wvith tile object of bewildering andi tiring the Spanish forces without risking any real engagemellnts. The success of tllese movements was crowned by the treasonable surrender of the Spanish garrison at Pelayo, with fifty rifles and 23,000 cartridges. For this act the Spanish authorities sentenced Captain Feijo, the comlmand ing officer, to life imprisonenlt in chains. The inslurgents c(onstaIntly receive(l recruits to their ranks of Cuban youths and negro field-hands, who, encouraged b)y the success of the movement, hesitated no longer to take the field. The banditti who had always claimed to lhave been carryinig on a war RECRUITS FOR Et lglinsts Spain, in most cases hastened to join the revoTHIE INSURGENT 7. ARMIES. lutionists, and their leaders were given rank, as were all others who presented themselves with any nunmber of recruits. Those bandits who did not proclaim for the rebellion and many free lances, who imagined that the opportunity had come to reap a harvest of plundler on their own account, were shortly wiped out by the insurgent chiefs, who hanged themn wherever captured. Early in 1896 CGeneral Goinez united with General Antonio Maceo near Punta BL3rava, not many miles from Havana, and the concentrated force numbered 11,700 men. Iere it was decided that Gomez should keep upI his tactics of moving about with his escort, the bulk of the force should return and distribute itself over Matanzas, while Maceo with 4,000 men should continue into the westernmost province of Pinar del Rio. This plan was immediately put into execution. The Spanish leaders were unprepared for any such movement, and while a columnl under the command of General Garcia Navarro was sent in pursuit of Maceo, others were sent after Gomez. Maceo's advance into Pinar del Rio was eminently successful. So rapidly did he move that Navarro's column could not get up to him, while the surprised garrisons in front of him surrendered to his surging horde, which was continually being increased by the Cubans, who looked upon the multitude as already having won Cuba's freedom. INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 493 Maceo's rapid movement continued along the north coast to the very last towns of (ituane and Mantua, where his raids became more like a trilllluphal procession, the people rising en masse to welcome him. From Mantua lie swept southward to the vicinity of the city of Pinar del Rio, and1 tlhelnce lie continued his march along the southern highway 1back to HIavana. At Paso l{eal he was taken by surprise by the column of (leneral (llque, and the famous blut indecisive battle of Paso Iteal ensued. Whlile the Spanish remained in possession of the city, Maceo marched away, and with colors GENERALSMEO AnND LUQUE flying entered the town of San Cristobal, where he was I BATTLE. received wiith demonstrations of joy, even by those people who did not favor his cause. General Sabas Marin had hastily formed another trocha across the narrow part of the island between Mariel and Majana, to prevent Maceo's forces joining those of Gomez, and had stationed 8,000 troops in the vicinity of Artemisa to intercept him. Maceo with his usual skill avoided an encounter, crossed the line, and was again in Havana province without having fired a shot. Tle political policy of (Campos was one of conciliation with a promise of reform in thle adminiistration of the affairs of the island. Tis military policy was to meet the insurgents on the field of battle and with superior numbers and resources end the rebellion. Seconded by officers who had learned the science of warfare at home, by planning battles on paper, and with boy soldiers who scarcely knew how to carry a gun, his operations in the field were as great failures as were his attempts to bring about peace by diplomatic lmeans. The begoinning of 1896( saw tlhe entire island, except the cities, in the possession of tlh insurrents or else in a turmoil. The very people who had protested against the uprising now hailed the chiefs as harbingers of their independence. Gomez was marching back and forth, distributing his bands tlroughout Matanzas and Havana provinces. The great mass of peasants who inhabited tlhe rural districts would not fight, but the Spanish soon discovered them RECA1AL OF in coalition witl the insurgents, and they misled the MARTINEZ CAMPOS soldiers of the crown on every possible occasion. The 1rmly called for their punishment, but Campos refused to make war on noncombatants. Tlie Spaniards in Havana, astonished at the rapid 494 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. rlarch of the insurgents and tlle inability of the army to check thel, with destruction going on at every lhand, demanded the recall of ('ampos. The hl(,1e go()vernmenlt t Madrid (lllplie(d ith the command, an(1 the man woi) had been considered Spain's greatest general left Cuba, lha]ving failed complletely to chei the rebellion. The man chosen by the Spanish government to succeed Clampos was CGeneral Weyler, who arrived in Havana on lebruary 10, 18!). ile had been in Cuba before, having been in colllllmand of the provine of Santiago during the Ten Years' war, where he gained for himlself a reputation for wholesale butchery, and it was probably on account of this reputation that he was selected to quell this later rebellion. With the troops already in the field in thle island, the force at General Weyler's command at the opening of the fall campaign of 1896-97 was not less than 200,000 men, and he decided to take the field in person. He proceeded toward the mountainous region of Pinar del Rio, and lmade his headquarters near the line of the main railway from Tavalna to Pinar del Rio city. Thence he sent out columns to search for tle rebels, but he was not successful in finding them in force, nor did he fight any decisive engagement. While he was in the west Maceo met his death at the hands of Spanish troops. When General Weyler finally gave up active operations and seated himself in the palace at Havana he announced that Pinar del Rio was practically free from rebel bands. It was officially announced by General Weyler on January 11, 1897, that three provinces were practically pacified, but, by a seeming paradox, he took the field again on January 19. The bulletins issued from the palace announced sweeping victories for the Spanish in Matanzas and the other provinces which he had declared pacified, showing that the insurgents there were still active. The last personal campaign, like the first, was one of destruction, and the torch played an important part. When the captain-general left Havana, he did so with the avowed intention of GENERAL WEYLER meeting General Gomez in Matanzas, but there was HIS POLICY. no engagement of consequence. Gomez eluded the Spanish forces, which outnumbered his own by several thousand, and there were only a few skirmishes. In all of these tlle INSURPRECTIONS IN CUBA. 495 f()iials ill t lll pal.ce iin 1I hvla cllilmled victorie's for I81)ain, witlh 11(elv losses to tlihe insurgents. Tlhe most illfaltioiis (at of Weyler's admlinistration was his recolncentration ordler, wllichl colnpel lle( tle Iloncomllbatallts to abandon their ]o(}n11's in tlhe irall dlistricts alld llerd like sh(eep in the c(ities and towns which were still lhell by tlle Sp)anislh:rirns. This imeant starvation for thousands of inoffensive wonlen andl (hllildllr'nl, but tnotwill stanldill the horrible sufferinlg an( deatll w1lilc followed, tlle "b'htcller" continued the enforclement of thlle edict, in tlie face of tlh prottests of the civilized world. In April, 1S9)(, a clhange of United States consuls at Ihavana excited commenrt. rl'lhe a)ppoinltmenl t of (General Fitzhugh Lee to succeed (Consul-General Williams, was regarded by Americans as well as by the authorities at the palace, as an androit way of sending La military colmlissioner from thle 'United States to CONSUL FITZlHUTH LEE {fOES TO Cuba. When tlhere was an intimation that Mr. Cleve- HlAVANA. land contemplated sending a commissioner to learn officially what was going o(i, the officials at Madrid said very plainly that no military or other conmmission would be accepted by them, or permitted to pry into affairs in Cuba. There was, therefore, some curiosity as to how (General Lee would be received, and as to what facilities would be accorded llimi for learning what was transpiring outside of the city of Ilavana. The American residents of Ilfavana welcomed General Lee with open arms, anld le soon demonstrated that he was the man for the position. Throughl his determined efforts, citizens of the United States were afforded a protection that had been denied them before his arrival, and more tlhan one American owes his liberty and his life to the courage and determination of General Lee. CHAPTER XXXV. OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. The Destruction of the Battleship Maine-Legislative Preliminaries of the WarVerdict of the Naval Court-American Citizens Leave Havana-Mobilization of the Army-The President's Call for Troops-Congress Declares War-Blockade of the Cuban Coast-Many Prizes Captured-First Engagement of the WarThe Affair of the Winslow-Cervera's Fleet in Santiago Harbor-Destruction of the Alfonso XII.-Minor Naval Engagements. N THE mind of the American people, the signal event which caused our war with Spain was the destruction of the United States battleship Maine in Havana harbor, and the beginning of hostilities is dated from 9:40 o'clock p. mi., February 15, 1898, when the explosion took place that sent the noble ship and many of its brave crew to the bottom of the sea. But, in fact, the war had been coming for some time before this act of Spanish treachery. Senators and representatives in congress had been agitating for the recognition of Cuban independence for months, for both of the great political parties had adopted planks in their national platforms declaring for the freedom of the island. Some members of congress were in favor of armed intervention, and tangible substance was given the pro-Cuban feeling on February 8, when Senator Allen of Nebraska, Senator Cannon of Utah and Senator Mason of Illinois introduced Cuban resolutions in the senate. Senator Allen offered, as an amendment to the diplomatic and consular appropriation bill, a resolution recognizing the belligerency of the Cuban insurgents; Senator Cannon offered a resolution urging the president to notify the kingdom of Spain that if it (id not recognize the independence of Cuba before March 4, 1898, the United States would recognize the belligerency of the Cubans and within ninety days thereafter would assert the independ496 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 497 ence of the Cuban republic; Senator Mason (offered a resolution reque{sting the president to notify Spain that the Cuban war nmust cease aund declare the intention of the United States to restore and maintain pea(ce in the island of Cuba. When the naval court appointed for the purpose of inlqiring into the cause of the catastrophe to the Maine finished its work,;and foundl( that the ship had been destroyed by the explosion of a mine, the responsibility of the Spanish government for the crime could not be questioned. Patience ceased to be a virtue. CONGRESS ANI) PRESIIDENT MOVED "Remeinber the Maine" became a national watchword rT ACTION. and Congress was overwhelmed by the war spirit. War and Cuban resolutions followed each other in Congress in rapid sequence, and President McKinley, who was watching every move and at the same time putting forth almost superhuman efforts to postpone aggressive action until such time as the navy and army were in better shape, was compelled to give way. On April 3 Fitzhugh Lee, the American consul-general at Havana, was ordered to come home and bring with him all American citizens in the Cuban capital. Hie left Havana April 9, arriving in Key West the next day. When President McKinley was assured tlat all Americans were out of Havana he sent to Congress the long-expected message April 11, asking authority to take measures to secure a terriniation of hostilities in Cuba and to secure in the island the establishment of a stable government and to use the military and naval forces of the United States as might be necessary to carry out his policy. le recommended the continuation of the distribution of food to the starving people of Cuba. There was no reference in his message to Cuban independence. In anticipation of war, the regular army was ordered to mobolize at Tampa, Mobile, New Orleans and Chickamauga. On April 21 General Woodford, the American minister to Spain, was given his passports by the Spanish government and left Madrid, and the next morning the American fleet, under Admiral Sampson, sailed from Key West to begin a blockade of Havana and the northern coast of Cuba. President McKinley's ultimatum to the Spanish government demanded a reply on or before noon on Saturday, April 23, and warned 4.98 498 ~OUR HOLY WVAR WITH SPAIN. thein tlat. at t~hat. fiinie their op)portulnityV for at peaceful settlement of the difticuilty would, en(L At the expiration of thesse FIRSTr CALL FOR ay's of grace, the P1resident saw that Spain was dieY~,O OUTE terininedl on war, amd Ilie begfall. to ma,-ke prepa railmus, SOLDAIIERS. t. I for t he conflict. Ile iminletliately issued a lproclallnation ca,11llng for 125,0 0 0troops, to serve for two years or as long as, the wtar lasted. Thins procltamnation was in thet following- terins: BY THE PRESID)ENT OF THE UNITED STATES8: A PItO(I'-_AMATION. XWhereas, by a. joint resolution of Congrress, approved the 22d of April, 1-898, entitled "Joint resolution for the recogmuitioul of tile hildepenldenice of the people of Cubta, deinlandhng th~at the governmient of Sptain relinquish1 its an1tliori ty andl goverunient in the isLalld of Cuba:,i to wvithdraw its land and naval forces, from Cuba and Cubtan wNNaters, t i 1aiid (lirecting, the Plresidlent of the ITnited] States to use th e land and ntaval forces of the United States to carU-ry these resolutions into eff ect" amid,~ Wh~ereas, by anl act of Cong-ress, entitled "Ani act to provide for the increasing10 of the military estcablishiment of thie 1,nit-ed Statfes In tilme of war tand for othe(.r purposes," approved A pril 22, 189,8, the Presiuleit was an1tilhorize(l in ordler to raise a volunteer armiv, to issue1 his, proclaimation c~alling, for volunteers to serve in the army of the, unlited Now, thlerefore, I, William McKinley, President of the Unitled States, by tlim power vested in ine by the constitution and laws, and( dleemliiig su1flicient occasion to exist, have thought fit to call for auenl hereby do cal for volunteers to the aggregate number of 125,000, ill ordler to carry into effeoct the purpose of the saidl resolution, the samIle to b~e,apportioned, as far as practicable, amiong the several states awlie territories andl tied District of Columbila, according to popul ati on, anrid to serve for two years unless sooner dischargedl The d]etails for this,, object will be Immediately comnmllnicatedl to the proper authoritie's througoh the, war departmecut. In witness whe1-reof, I have hereunto set my hand, and clause(l the seal of the United States to be affixed. Done at Washingvton this 23d day of April, 1-898, and of the indeI (pendence of the United States the one hundred and twenty-second. By the President: WILLIAM M'KINLEY. JOHN SHERMAN, Secretary of State. OUR H1OLl'7 tL4R [Vt!T[I S7PAINT.49 499 War ibetwee'n the, Unitedl States and Spaini was (leclared by Congiess in a, joint resoluition lllrriedlly lpassedl through both houses andl himnd ja tely sigfledl by President McKinley on the afternoon of A prilI 2.5. This was the formal d(leclaration of war, but as a matter of fact wNar existed from April 21, for on that (lay the first shotted g-un wtas fil-ed, throwringra, six-pound shell from the United. States gunboat NashN-ile across the bow of the Spanish steamer Buena Ventu~ra-, the first piHze taklen by Admiral Sampsoni's blockading fleet. Following is the d~eclar~ation of war adop~ted by Congress April 25: A bill (leclaringe that war exists b~etween the United States of Amkjerica <11(1 the kinoldoni of Spain. Be it enactedl, etc. 1. Thait war be alld the same is hereby declared- to exist and i hat war has (existed snethe 21st (lay of April, A. 1). 1898, inclu1.dingr said da-ty, lbetween the United States of America and (O10'N' 'I I ES S the kinrdmni of Spain. FTREWA 2.That the President of the United States be AGAINST SPAINT. and lie hereby is directed andl emlpowered to use the entire lauid and naval forces of the U~nited States and to call into the,actual service of the U~nited S-tates thie milnitia of thie several states to smch (extent as may be necessary to carry this act into effect. The states responded enthusiastically to the call for volunteers, and if tall the men who showed a desire to volunteer had been acceiptedl, no nation in the world could have boasted a largyer army. W\Tlile the troops were massincr at Chickaniauga and at Tampa, the two principal places for m~obolizingr the army, the navy had placed a- picket line of warships along the north coast of Cuba, all the way from IBahia Hondla, west of Havanra, to and beyond Cardelnas,, east of ILavana, more than 125 miles, blockading the pornts of Bahia Honda, Marie], h-avana, Matanzas, and Cardenas. Cruisers and gunboats swept thie Florida straits with long-distance eyes glued to powerful glasses, on the lookout for Spanish colors. Prizes (Irawn from the Spanish gTrabbagr soon grew common in Key West, and the arrival of a merch.antmatf n belonging to the enemy soon became such an everyday occuirrence thiat it failed to attract any particular attention. When a prize was captured, it was taken to the flagship New York and reported. Then it was brouc'ht to Key West to lie alongside 500 OUR HOLY TWAR IVITH SPAIN. the other trophies of war. The prizes were knownI ill Key est as "reconcentrados,, and the name was well given, for the United States was compelled to feed the crews and passengers until they could make arrangements to leave the island. The people aboard the prizes were not held as prisoners of war; but were at liberty to leave as soon as they liked. The first actual engagement of the war was on April 27, when the cruisers New York and Cincinnati and the monitor Puritan of the blockading squadron steamed into the bay of Matanzas and drew tlhe fire of the forts. It was returned by the gunners of the flagship, and the Ccicinnati and Puritan soon joined in a vigorous cannonade. After twenty minutes' fire the batteries were silenced, and our ships withdrew. The target practice of the New York was an inspiring sighlt. At every shot clouds of dust and big pieces of stone showed where the Spanish fortifications were suffering. Not a shot from the shore batteries struck the mark, and not the slightest damage was (lone to any of the ships that took part in the bombardment. The first loss of life on an American warship in Cuban waters occurred in the bay of Cardenas on the afternoon of May 11. Three vessels-the gunboat Wilmington, the torpedo boat Winslow and the revenue cutter Hudson, which had been taking soundings-tried to sink or capture some Spanish gunboats and were fired on by the masked shore batteries. The Winslow was disabled, and was drifting towards the shore, into the very mouths of the batteries, when she signaled for help. The Hudson, 150 yards away, ran up to tow the torpedo boat out of range. While passing a rope both boats FIRST AMERICAN were struck several times, and the Winslow's funnels LOSS ON THE WINSLOW. anld ventilators were shot away. Most of the projectiles were solid shot, but just as the Winslow got under way again, a heavy shell struck on her forward deck, and, exploding, killed Ensign Worth Bagley, three firemen and one sailor, an(l wounded Lieutenant Bernardou, the commander and four others of the crew. When the shell exploded the hawser parted, and the Winslow's helm went hard to starboard, and, with its steering gear smashed, the boat floundered about in the water at the mercy of the enemy's fire. The OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 501 Iludson quickly threw another line to the disabled torpedo boat and pulled it out of the Spaniard's range. The war had not been long under way when Commodore Schlev caged the Spanish armalda, under Admiral Cervera, in the harbor of Santiago, and the scene of battle shifted to the south coast of Cuba. On this account it was not until the 6th of July that another engagement of any imoii(ent took place on the north shore of the island. On that (late tlree boats of the blockading fleet, the Hawk, the Prairie,nd the Castine, plut to flight two ullnboats of the enemy, beached and burned the Alfonso XII., a transport of 5,000 tons, loaded,with allmuiition, and silenced the batteries that joined in the fight. The battle began off 1lavana, to which port the Alfonso XII. was leaded from the west. Lieutenant HIood of the Hawk was cir(clilng about with his boat six miles west of Morro, when the forward lookout sighted a huge four-masted steamer creeping along in the shade of the shore. Ilis "sail ho" warned the captain of the steamer that he was discovered, and he turned at the cry and steamed rapidly westward toward Mariel. The Hawk did not lose a moment, but immediately gave chase. Twenty miles from Morro, Lieutenant IIood fired his first shots. The gunners of the Ilawk poured six pounders upon the flying steamer, and she ran for the harbor of Mariel, where she struck a bar on the west side of the entrance and stuck fast. With wild cheers the IIawk's crew attempted to board the prize, but her rails were lined with riflemen, and they were driven back to their ship. They guarded their prize till morning, and then, seeing her fast agrullnd, they returned to tie fleet to secure assistance in taking her. The Castine was sent to aid in the work, but the shore batteries opened on them, and after two hours' fighting, they were compelled to send for re-enforcements. The Prairie was S8ARP FIGHTING ON A BIW dispatched to engage the batteries, and soon succeeded SPANISH PRIZE. in silencing them. The infantry in the rifle-pits supporting the batteries were driven out by the Castine, the Alfonso XII. was taken and added to the long list of prizes to the credit of the blockading squadron. Of so much greater importance were the events transpiring before Santiago, that the progress of the war along the north coast of (_Cu;t ")(2 OUR HOLY IVAR IVITHI SPAIN. lan1l else\wllere oni the south coast was given but scant attention either by writers or readers of the news. It is necessary to say, however, that not only during the Santiago campaign, but during the weeks following the surrender of that city, up to the very day of the signature of the peace protocol, the navy was active in maintaining the blockade. Several daring efforts were Imade by Spanish blockade runners to coilvey relief to the beleagluered cities, but in every case the effort was frustrated. The "l(mosquitlo fleet maintained the blockade after thle big lihllters had gone to Santiago in a malnner that was highly creditable to officer, men and vessels. Tug boats, torpedo boats and pleasure yachts (co(lverted into gunboats, all arlled with rapid-firing guns and capable of traveling at a high rate of speed, mlade the waters of the channel between the Florida Keys and Cuba untenable for anything flying the Spanish flag. Once in awhile a Spanish gunboat would make a sortie from the harbor, only to be driven back disabled. M1any such encounters resulted in the destruction of Spanish boats and the capture of others as prizes. On the south coast of Cuba similar events were happening. At Maanzaillo, Trinidad and Cienfuegos there were sharp little naval battles quite worth describing if they were not so overshadowed by the greater events before Santiago. Blockade service off BRAVERY OF THE the Cuban coast in small boats is an experience quite COAST BLOCKADE SERVICE. as trying as any sailor can undergo, and it would be an injustice not to acknowledge the character of the service as it was conducted during those long weeks. The officers and men thus occupied were out of reach of the glorious victory of Santiago, but their work was just as essential and credit should not fail for it. CHAPTER XXXVI. HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. Cervera's Cruise to the West Indies-Hobson and the Sinking of the Merrimac-The Marines at Guantanamo Bay-Desperate Fighting Day and Night-Voyage of the Transports from Tampa to the Cuban Coast-Landing at Baiquiri-The First Battle of the Rough Riders-El Caney and San Juan Hill-Surrender of Santiago Demanded-Admiral Cervera Attempts to Escape from Santiago Harbor-Total Destruction of the Spanish Fleet-Splendid Work of American Ships and Sailors-General Miles Arrives in Cuba-Surrender of the Spanish Forces and the City-Santiago in Possession of the Americans. XXT HEN Admiral Cervera-, commlandling the Spanish armada, sailed for the West Indies, his destination was San Juan de Puerto Rico, where he expected to put in for coal and supplies. This intention was learned by the naval authorities at Washington, who immediately ordered Admiral Sampson to intercept him at lhat point and destroy his fleet. When Cervera touched at Curacao he heard of Sampson's bombardment of San Juan, and ihe turned towards the south coast of Cuba. At this time Commodore Schley's squadron was closing in on Cervera from the east, cutting off escape in that direction. It was believed that Cienfuegos was the destination of Admiral Cervera, as railway communication between there and Havana would enable him to send guns and ammunition from his ships to CaptainGeneral Blanco for the defense of the capital. Instead, however, he took refuge in the harbor of Santiago de Cuba. Commodore Schley discovered that he was guarding an empty harbor at Cienfuegos and moved eastward to the older city which became the center of operations. The combined fleets of Commodore Schley and Admiral Sampson, the latter in command, then began a close blockade of the harbor of Santiago, which lasted for several weeks, until Admiral Cervera attempted to escape. 503 504 HIERO()S () S. INTIJ(ACO ON L.JND A)ND SEA. 1On1 the mll'liln" of June 3, eiglit men o{ the navy perforin1ed the imo st darigL deced of tile war by sinkiig the steami collier Mlerriimac in the harbor entrance to Santiago de (Cu ba ullnder tle lire of the Spanislh battrs. iltet.teic t lehmond P. 1 obson, naval TIlE (MOST constructor assiignled to tlie flaigsllip N ew York, withl I)AIRIN(, DEEI) OF T'l'E vWAR a (cr''ew of seven', to tloo ' le bi- coal-carrier' illto the challnnel just before the dawnv, pushed her thr(lough t(he guarding line of torpedoes, and under a perfect lhail of shot and sh(ell sunk tithe vessel in a position which, it was hoped, would prevent the out (0o1i ig of Adniral (1ervmera's s(1i (adron. Thle laffair was an exhibition of calculalting courage and indomlitable (energy, the mnen who perforlnede the t/ask entering upon their worlk in th(e tirmn belief that. death and,glory would be the end of their endeavor to performl a signal service to tohe country. These were the heroes: Lieutenant.liclhmond P. II obson, naval constructor, flagship New Yorkm; ID)aiel IMontague, master-at-arls, flagship New York; (to)lge C('lI 1rlt'e, gnn111111I's niate, flagship Ne-w York; J. C. [Murphy, cockswaiUl, I(owa; Oscar Deignan, cockswain, Merrimac; John P. Phillips, 1machinist, AMerrimiac; Johln Kellev, water tender, Merrimac; 11. C~lauseii, coc(kswa in, fl agshlij) New York. tNaval Cadet( Powell of the New York, with a p)icked crew of six men vlolnteered( from. various shil)s, also shares in thle glory, for IIe( went close il to thle mouth of the harbor in a steamll cutter, awaiting al opportllnity to rescule any of the lmen who might escape alive, and r(leaell 'd lpluc.kily at lhis post until dlaylight, when lie was driven away by a terrific fire from shore. It wass lobson's ideal to block the lharbor by sinking a ship across tlie channel. IHe submitted his plan to Adiniral Sampson, and, after luch consultation, it was decided to allow him to try. Death to those englaging in the(' enterprise seeme(l certain, and, after great hesitancy, it was decided to reldce tie number of imen participatinTg to the minilmum. Having formulated the schemle, volunteers were called for tlhe service. But eight men were required. Two thousand offered themselves. Not only did Anmerican sailors show that they were ready at a moment's notice to answer any call, but they pleaded, begged andl ' ifa tu old( etlplt of pi lttlclerellglous zarcbitectlt SO tlliIllCuba, stla in ti 1e lower piart of the,(I c tysI is any hun1edss of y lars old anld hias been tie seseof state ceremonies il Havasll, odurIg the entire peeiod of Sps, ish tdminion is that islatni Dig "*. -X,; ],:**,:.an.,...*. HAVANA OF THE PAST BAACKS OF LA FU A ECTED 1 573 Ace Growtt me yagt d of ttf hd pted ul e IIlHROES OF SArNTIiGO ON LAND AND SEI. r) T importln)()tllI c(IliImmal ildnig (oflic'ers to use t1heir iInflueIce (to secli'1le tlle desiperate but covetedl d(letail. Those who were chlos(en co(isildel'edl t i(elselves lucky. 'Those, who were refused declined to be co(llifoil-t,d, land openly averred that tlley were being treated badly and tllat tle lnavy.wais no place for a ma111n1 who wvislled to get alhe1ad. Three meti f)omii t lie flagship New York siwaii from their ship to tl e Merrim.iac after lbeiln denied permission to enllist, were allpp)rehended antd returned to () 1p 11 -ished because they violated a discipline whichl intlerfelred itl t1iheir wish to be numbered as part of a forlorn hole. llar(lly less remarkable thanl the act itself was t1he ne(ws tllat Illobson and his men (escapedl alive, a Imessenger from the 1Spaishl atmiral, under a truce flag, advising Admiral Sampson that every one of the eight was alive, well, and being trea ted as im(en who follow tlie profession of arms treat prisoners whlose bravery they are compellled to adllil'e. Ilobson and his crew were e(lentlally exclhanged for SIpanIish prisoniers held by the Americans, a truce having been established(( for lthalt purpose. The fighting qualities of the A(merican soldier Iand his adaptapbility to new conditions Awere shown in tl e five (lays' fit betw(een Iiieutenant-Colonel I luntington's battalion of marines and the Spanish forces at (Guantanamo. The marinaes THE FS FORE I ANDEI) landed from the transport IPanther on Friday,A June N u 10, and on the following day a rush attack was ilmade on th(em by Spanish troops. The S)paniards fought from cover until mnidnight, discoverable only by flashes fromn their guns, at whichl the marines fired volleys. Sunday brought no rest, iand a mo(Iment of wetakening or of panic would l ave resulted in thle aniiliailt ion of tlie corn mnand. The arrival of re-enforcements o-f (Cubans lunel(r Lieutenant Colonel Enrique Thomas on Monday brought a goo(l supplly of native guides, placing it witllin the power of the belealguered corps to take the offensive. The battle upon the hills of (Cusco tle following ldy resulmted, *and the result was decisive victory for the allied A\m(eric;ans and Cubans. The scene of the final engagement is reacledl by a long, tortuolus footpath extending in a generally soutlern direction from tlle camlp. tangle(l brush of cactus, briers andt thorny viles, imllInetrablle x(cl)t 508 HEROES OF SA,-NTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. with the aid of a machete, aiid so dense that an object ten ytrdls away caiinot be distinguished, p)ushes in from either side, often hang1(ingo so low that it is lpossilbleto 1)ass only by bending to the knee~s. For a-bouit three miles the trail doubles back and forth throtighl this tangled skein of seiiii-trolpicalC1 folia ge, keeping to rocky ojulches, but asceeI(1ing grradItally to the first ridg-e of the Cusco hills. The pass here is aibouit 8350 feet. highl 200 feet above the summnit, of them hill, upon -which. C'amp Mc.alla stands. Froml this on the trail extends three miles f~arther south, between two rangges of lofty~, buslh-grow mviiounta ilis 450 feet highl to the seashore, where once stoodi the Clisc() pl~latat11ion, which1 has given iiame and Identity t~o this rough promontory. The general plan of the battle was, in brief, a quick nmoveinent, about the enenty's left flank, turningr it a'nd geltitig into ta coiumau-11ding( l)osition in the rear. The enemiy had. olpened the a'tta.-ck u1pon ouir fortified camnp at 8 o'clock in the morning off June 14, with,An atd v anc1'e columin comiprisingr the 3(1, or Principe, regiment of the, Spanish infantry aimd one regiment of guerrillas, Ilie Ecliadea's of MARINES AND (Iuantanamo. Coming down the nimain pass to silpCUBANS IN THlE BATTE O CUCO.port them were t he (64th, or Snuancas, amid the( 835tf, or Toledo, regriments of Spaimishi hinfa mtry. Twvo ni ore regiments of Spanish regulcars were on the wiay froni 0Muanta-,namio overland, expecting to arrive in time to re-entforce the assauilt upon the camp. The Spanish were in full retreat before they arrived. Lieuitenant-Colonel II untinglton ha id already strongly intrenched himself upon the hill, and, had his, men been fresh, hie might have safely stoodl upon the (lefellsive against almost any force. 13int the, fight-iingo had already been going on for four days. Lack of sleep had weakened th nrous strength of the men an indications were not wa ntingr the night before to show that the marines were in no( condition to (10) themselves justice in the trenches. Undler these circumnstances the colonel decided wisely to put it onl the offensive. Immediately after the attack was begun upon the froiui, of the camip he detached Captain Elliott of Company C, a hardy old soldier and fighter, to turn the enemy's left wing. Leavinge the canill) undler the bluffs of the shore at the western side, lie miarched his, coininand at quick time along the narrow path skirting the shore sevefl IlEROES 01; SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SE1A. 509 miles around the outer slope of the niountain in the elnely's left and rear. Captain Spicer of Company D followed, his objective being a point on the ridge on the left of Captain Elliott. Each was assisted by detaclhmlents of Cubans, fifty in all, who were to get around in the eneiny's rear. The plan of attack was almost completely successful. The eniemy did not discover the flanking movement until Captain Elliott and his comminand were a Umile on their way toward the miountain top. Then the race began for the lofty position-six miles through tangled brush and cactus, two opp)osing forces rushling at lbreakneck speed up opposite sides of the mountain, and victory the stake! It was a race to the (leatl under a torrid sun that threatened the same penalty to victor or vanqluished. Ilappily (Captain Elliott, despite his (0 years, had the lead and won the position. Ile gained the suInmit of the mountain just as the enemy reached the top of a round knob in the center of the main pass at its base. The enemy immediately betrayed its inferior Iposition by an irregular fire, and he answered with fierce volleys. In the meantime Captain Spicer arrived just in tinme to receive the enemly's hottest fire as lie appeared on the crest of the hill. It was the signal for the men to lie down and to augment (aptain Elliott's regular volleys. Torrent upon torrent of burning hail swept t le knob where the enemy paused. The marines, confident in tlieir position, shot with no more excitement than if tley were engaged in regular rifle practice, sometimes commenting and( advising upon the range and the conditions of the shooting. The enemy fouglht stubbornly from behind rocks and bushes, but resistance in the inferior position was useless. IHe began to retreat slowly up the gulch to the eastward. Just then a company of Cubans appeared in his rear, shouting curses and execrations upon Spanish oppressors, and, brandishing machetes, charged tlhe fleeing colulnn like a pack of savages. A second later Lieutenant Magill, witlt one platoon of Company A, appeared on the ridge over the gulch, having forced the enemy's front back over the first range of hills. From this moment the enemy's retreat became a rout. lie was caught upon three sides, and his only escape was up the steep sides of rc1o HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. the mountains at the head of the gulch. The slaugllter here for a few minutes was frighltful. Volley upoln volley was hurled OFBRTE VEWORIIK into the scattering ranks froin lieutenant Magill's OF THE AMERICAN "JOLLIES. commllland, scarcely 8300 yards a1'way, aInd thle wondler is that any escaped. But, unfortunately, at just this instant, when the enemy was all but caught within a pocket lined with rifles, the Dolphin, stationed near the shore, began to fire straight into the gulch. She wasv in no position to get the right range, and all of her shells went wild, striking much nearer our own ranks tlhan tlhe (11C111 VS. In the face of this fire it was impossible to pursulle the ileeing enelly. As lie disappeared over the mountainls manliy were caught on the run at long ralnge and brought down like scurrying lhares. IBut, once over the ridge, he was safe. In the meantime the Cubans liIad driven out the last Spaniard from the old Cusco house and set it on fire. In the neioghborhood tlhey captured Lieutenant Francisco Batiste, a commllander of guerrillas, two of his conparlny and fifteen Spanish soldiers of tle three regillents engaged. At a well fifty yards beyond the house the Spaniards attempted to make a stand, and a lieutenant and several soldiers were killed. Later an old windmill over the well was raked by shots from the Dolphin, and the well was filled up. By this means the supply of water upon which the enemy had relied in making his attacks upon the camp was cut off. The extent of Spanish losses, as estimated by the Spanishl and by Cuban scouts sent out immediately after the battle, is 68 killed and about 150 wounded. Our loss was but two killed, and these were Cubans who fell in their last intrepid charge for the Cusco house. Both received wounds in the breast and died shortly after hell reached them, uttering with their last breath the dear words, "Cuba libre." As soon as it was definitely known that the Spanish fleet was entrapped in Santiago bay, the work of transporting the troops to that section of the island was begun. The fleet of transports, with its guard of warships, left Egmont key, at the entrance of Tampa bay, just before sundown of Tuesday, June 14. The fleet stretched out on its course almost due south in three lines of ships, the battleship Indiana HEROlES OP SiAN7TIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 511 leading the rightt line, the gulnboat Castine the ceniter andI the gunboat Annapolis the left. Far to the right and left, at times so far from the main body as to be below the horizon, were the scout ships, which not only flanked the moving A FLEEIT O,column of troopshlips, but steamed far ahead and fol- VOYAGE TO CUBA. lowed behind tle triple line of transports. On board were 16,000 fighting men, besides the men on the warships. The voyage to Cuban shores was uneventful, and on the morning of June 22 the first of tlhe troops landed at Baiquiri, twelve miles east of the entrance to Santiago bay. Before the boats started for shore with their loads of blue coats, half a dozen warships opened on the underbrush and hillsides with solid shot and shell. For twenty minutes the rapid-firing and machine guns beat the long roll, with the heavy ones coming in with booms and thumps like a great bass drum. The shells ripped through the trees, sinasling the cliffs, uprooted great palms and tore up the earth with a vindictive vigor which delighted the soldiers, many of whom had never heard the roar of an eight-inchl rifle before. This shelling was simply a precalution. The Cubans had sent word to the flagship that the Spaniards had left the town as soon as the first transport swung into view. Over 8,000 rounds of Mauser rifle ammunition were left behind; many official papers were found in the house that had been occupied by the Spanish commandant. The enemy left several souvenirs. To thle soldier the most interesting were the rifle-pits, which ran in every direction, and the dozen little forts which dot the hills surrounding Baiquiri. When the tacticians of the 5th army corps came ashore and saw the natural defenses of the place they breathed hard for a minute, for they saw at once that a more energetic enemy could have held off the whole expedition, warships and all, with a comparatively small force. But luck wa.s with the Americans from the day the last transport left Tampa. Tle surf ran high, and it would have been ticklish business to have attempted to land a few men; it was real peril when it (cmne to landing a boat crowded with heavily armed soldiers. Many hoats were swamped. Yet only two men were drowned, and only one was injured seriously enough to get him a billet to the hospital tl2 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. ship, the Olivette. When taps sounded that night scores of little campfires showed that the invaders had pushed straight out into the hills, so that no Spaniard could creep up through the underbrush and pick off a northern man by shooting at him behind his back. On June 24 eight troops of the "lRough Riders," four troops of the 1st cavalry and four troops of the 10th. cavalry, less than 1,000 men in all, met 2,000 Spanish soldiers in the thickets five miles from Santiago, and a bloody battle ensued. The "Rough HlOUGl[ RIDERS Riders" were given their first taste of war in Cuba, HAVE THEIR BAPTISM OF FIRE. and s'howed the stuff of which they were made. They rushed into the dense thickets, regardless of danger; they crouched and fired, or rose and ran with a grim intentness of purpose that left nothing to be desired. There were many old soldiers among them, but one could not tell a veteran from a recruit. Those who were hit in many cases refused assistance rather than take their comrades out of the fight. On the extreme right the 1st and 10th cavalry were executing their part of the contract to perfection. The Spanish position was originally formed in a double crescent and the regulars had driven the left wing back until it was well on the left of the valley road. There it was making a hard stand, knowing that unless the persistent Yankees were held in check the Spaniards would be hemmed in, with no avenue of escape. This negative success they achieved-no more. In a short time the final charge up the hill was made, with Roosevelt leading the left and Wood in the center, and the last remnant of the Spanish force fled before the impetuous assault. After a week of comparative idleness the campaign was reopened on the night of June 30, when the regiments forming the three divisions marched to their positions through the darkness. Those who were held in the road by blockades of pack mules, wagon trains and artillery took to the sides of the road, where the men snatched a few minutes' sleep. It was a march that tested the endurance and tried the nerves of the officers and men. Late in the afternoon a heavy rain flooded the roadbed and turned the stiff clay to slippery, mushy mud, which clung to shoes, growing in bulk and weight at every step. Some of the regiments began moving before supper, and until morning their soldiers were HEROES OF SAN7IAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 513 forced to quiet rebellious stomachs by nibbling hardtack. It was known that the road to the front was lined by Spanish sharpshooters, who roosted in trees at a safe distance, ready to slide to the ground and take cover in the underbrush. Canteens were emptied early in the march, the men takling the chance of an opportunity to refill them at the streams and small rivers which cross the road. But the leading regimients muddied the waters, and the cry, "Move to your positions as rapidly as possible," gave the thirsty men scant time to pick up) a supply of water. So it was that thousands of men stretched themselves flat on the ground, their clothing wet through with the tropical dew and their tongues so dry they were dusty. Scores of men in each regiment "fell out" on the march with reeling brains and throbbing temples, choked by the suffocating heat and humid- BIVOUAC BEFORE -LI ~n- \.. C -,.THE BATTLES OF ity. Men threw their blanket rolls away, cast canned JULY 1 AND 2. meats, hardtack and haversacks into the bushes, rid themselves of everything save the 100 rounds of ammunition, rifle, canteen and mess kit-the most precious belongings of the soldier. The Cubans reaped a full harvest, for they went foraging early and laid in clothing, blankets and provisions such as never before gladdened the eyes of the irsurgents. The morning reveille on July 1 found almost the entire 5th army corps in assigned position. Capron's battery opened the ball against the blockhouse near El Caney, and at eight o'clock the first gun of Grimes' battery sent a shell toward San Juan. All this time the cavalry, infantry and Gatling gun battery were slowly making their way over sunken roads and obscure trails, through Spanish bayonet-the wickedest of vegetation-finally arranging themselves into an irregular crescent-shaped line, with wide breaks here and there, the bow of the crescent toward Santiago and each end almost touching a battery. The Americans advanced by rushes from the first firing line and gave the Spaniards a distinct shock every tihue. Every rush meant a gain of from ten to fifty yards, and the only check to our advance during the day came when the 6th and 16th infantry and rough riders tried to carry Marianoje hill. After the first unsuccessful trial the Gatlings were brought forward, and, a while our boys were rushing up 014 HEROES OF S,4N7TIAGO ON LANVD AND SEA. the slope, the Gatling guns swept the intrenchnlents, weakening the Spanish fire materially. The Spanish ran down the slope back to their rifle-pits when our men got close to them, and scores of them were shot in the back by our Krag-Jorgensens. Over sixty-five dead Spaniards were found in the rifle-pits and many wounded. In the course of the fight General Wheeler, who was carried to the field on a litter, rode by, sitting erect on his bay horse. He was one of the few who did not deign to stoop to the flying shells or pay the least heed to the bullets that whistled thick about him. He seemed particularly in his element. At one time he called: "Keep at 'em! The Yankees are falling back." Then he corrected himself. "I mean the Spaniards," he said. But a great laugh went up and the good old general joined in it heartily. When night fell the enemy had been driven back from the line of intrenched hills, El Caney and San Juan hill had been taken, and the last hostile gun on these advanced lines of the Spanish had been silenced. But the cost of the victory was terrible. Seventeen hundred and fifty-two of the brave boys in blue had been either killed or wounded. On July 3 General Shafter sent the following communication to General Toral, the Spanish commander in the province of Santiago: Headquarters of United States Forces, Near San Juan River, Cuba, July 3, 8:30 A. M.-To the Commanding General of the BOMIBARD1ENT Spanish Forces, Santiago de Cuba-Sir: I shall OF SANTIAGO be obliged, unless you surrender, to shell Santiago IS THREATENED. de Cuba. Please inform the citizens of foreign coun. tries and all women and children that they should leave the city before 10 o'clock to-morrow morning. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, W. I. SIIAFTER, Major-General, U. S. A. General Toral made this reply: Santiago de Cuba, July 3, 2 P. M.-H-is Excellency, the General Commanding the Forces of the United States, San Juan River-Sir: I have the honor to reply to your communication of to-day, written at 8:30 A M. and received at 1 P. M., demanding the surrender of this city; on the contrary case announcing to me that you will bombard the city, and asking that I advise the foreign women and children HUOES 01F SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 5153 thlat thely limist leaiei thect cily before 10 o'clock to-morrow morning. It is l.ly )Ilty to Say to yovu that this city will not sUrrelin1er7 and that I will infoun the forel'oren ( 1onsuls and inhabitaints of the contents of your iniessa.ge. Very re'psiectfiilly, JOSE r,(-)It-AL onmmI ander-in-Chief, Fotirth Corps. The British, P1ortugu ese, Ch1inese, and Norwegian Consuls requested thiat non-combatantts be allowedl to occupy the town of Caney and railroad points, and asked until 10 o'clock of the next day for them to leave Santiago. They claimed that there were between 15,000 and 20,000 people, many of them old, whose lives would be endangered by the bombardment. On the receipt of this request General Shafter sent the following comm unication: The Commanding General, Spanish General, Spanish Forces, San tiago (le Cuba-Sir: In consideration of the request of the Consuls aln1d officers in your city for delay in carrying ont iiiy intention to tire oil the city, and ill the. interest of the poem, wonifen and children who will sufferi igreatly by their haisty and enforc(ed deparfture from the city, T ha1Wve th1e h1onor to announce that I will (IelaS s uchI action solely in their interest until noon of the 5thj, providin g (luring the interval your forces i-make fl( (lefininstiration whatever upon those of my own. I am with great respect, your obedienit serva'1nt W. R. SIh'kFi1A1TER, Major-General, U. S. A. In order that General Toral mighlt have time to consult with the Spanish authorities at Madlrid, this truce was further extended until four o'clock on Saturday, July 9. On the morning of July 3 occurred the event that hastened the conclusion of the war. On that day the Maine was remembered in thle complete annihilation of the Spanish fleet at Santiagro. Admiral Cervera and his officers were taken prisoners, 600 Spanish sailors w0re killed, 1,200 more surrendered SCHILEY'S GREAT VICTORY and nearly $15,000,000 worth of maritime property OVER CERVERA. was destroyed. Our loss was one man killed on the flagship Brooklyn. The long, monotonous blockade off Santiago de 0uba ended in one of the greatest of naval achievements which history 1t'eords. The unexpected happened when the enemy came out of the ha:,rbor. It was met by the expected-the valor, steadiness and won(lerful gun fire of the men who wear the colors of Uncle Sam and fight ,51 I-IEROIW)S OF SJ4NTIAGO ON LANI) ND V) S)lA. his ships. The navy simply obeyed orders and the flag which knows no defeat floated proudly in the breeze on the evening of the great national holiday. "Two bells" had gone when the New York, flagship of Admiral Sampson, signaled "pay no attention to the movenments of the coimmander-in-chief," and, accompanied by the torpedo-boat Ericssoii, steamed eastward toward Siboney, leaving, the fleet in command of Commodore Schley. It was just 9:35 o'clock in the morning when the Infanta Maria Teresa cleared the harbor, fired her forward battery and started to the west. Our ships were bunched some distance to the west of the harbor entrance and the Sund(ay inspectioins were in progress as the land batteries opened. Almost instantly came the signal from the Brooklyn, "Clear ship for action," the buglers sang the thrilling call which sends brave men to quarters, where is gained ever-living fame or heroic death, and the fight was on. Into the open sea, their big guns playing under the turtle-backed turrets, rushed the Maria Teresa, Colon, Vizcaya and Oquendo. Coming to meet them, slowly at first, but rapidly gaining speed, were the Brooklyn, Oregon, Iowa, Texas and Indiana. The converted yacht Vixen was ready for any emlergency, andl the Gloucester cleared for the fight. Four great battleships began to hail a terrible tonnage of twelve and thirteen inch shells, the eight-inch ammunition of the Brooklyn shrieked, and wailed, and howled as it flew on its awful course of destruction, and the starboard side of Commodore Schley's flagship was a continuous line of flame. As the great ships of the contestants raced away to the west, pounding at each other as ships have never pounded before, the sea churned into inmmense geysers as the projectiles plunged into the water, the sky darkened by smoke, the atmosphere heavy WAINWRIGHT, with saltpeter, out from the harbor steamed the torEXECUTIVE OFFICER OF THE AINE. pedo-boats Pluton and Furor. The Gloucester alone was on guard. Her guns seemingly too heavy for her, the chances were favorable to the escape of the long, low black craft as they sped toward the yacht whose unprotected sides and decks appeared to make her easy prey. It was 10:02 by the clock when Wainwright "rung up" and started HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA.,517 for his adversaries. Before his intention was lunderstood by the enemy he was in between the boats, starboard and port broadsides playing furiously, while the Colt machine guns were swung so as to bring their continuous discharge of missiles upon the decks of the enemy. For ten minutes a running, fight was kept up, during which time the Spaniards made half a dozen ineffectual attempts to torpedo the (:loucester. The shells from the land batteries fell all about, heavy, black and gray clouds of smoke hung low on the decks, spray covering everything as tile projectiles exploded in the seas and sent up great columns of water on all sides. At 10:25 the enemy was silenced and had been driven on the rocks. At 10:35 one torpedo-boat exploded and sank, while the magazine of the other blew up at 11:02. In one hour Wainwriglit completed his work and furnished proof that his memory was good. lie had remembered the Maine. With the giants of the opposing squadrons the battle, though comparatively short, was furious throughout. Steaming to the west, Commodore Schley had seen to it that the Brooklyn's mark was indelibly stamped on every cruiser of Spain. The flagship alone had five-inch guns, and the scars of their projectiles on Spanish armor plates indicate how well tley were aimed. Leaving the Oquendo and Maria Teresa to be handled by the battleships, he sent the Brooklyn speeding toward the Vizcaya. Closing in, the Brooklyn started half a dozen eight-inch shells toward the ship, which was rated her superior by some, following them with tons of metal from five and six inchers and one-pounders. Half a ton of steel a minute was hammered against the Vizcaya's sides, the Spanish gunners, unable to withstand the terrible fire, were driven from their pieces, and an evident attempt to ram the Brooklyn proved futile. The Oregon came on the scene early, adding to the punishment which proved to be so destructive that the Spanish colors were lowered shortly after 11 o'clock. From the wrecked and helpless Vizcaya the Brooklyn sped on toward the Colon, which was making a desperate effort to escape down the coast. The chase was astern and the chances appeared to be in favor of the Spaniard. Skillful maneuvering, however, and the loyal, energetic work of the stokers enabled the flagship and the Oregon to overtake the enemy, which surrendered some sixty miles beyond the 518 IHEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND ANDZ SEA. starting point, at about the place where the never-to-be-forgotten Virginius tried to land its expedition. While the Brooklyn and Oregon were pursuing the Vizcaya and Colon, "Fighting Bob" Evans and good "Jack" Philip were busy. The Iowa, Texas and Indiana, slower than the cruiser commanded by Cook or Clark's speedy battleship, devoted their attention to rounding up the Oquendo and Maria Teresa. Nine miles west of the harbor they encircled the flying cruisers. Outclassed from the SPLENID WORK start, the Spaniards fought like demons. Brave men AND SAILORS. were serving the guns, and, had their aim been as effective as their courage was sublime, some of our men might have missed their mess numbers and a ship or two charged to the price paid for liberty. At 10:15 this particular part of the battle started in vigorous fashion, the enemy attempting, to turn about and retreat to the harbor. The fighting was fierce until 10:40, when both ships of the enemy were set on fire by shells from our ships, driven ashore and wrecked. White flags were displayed ten minutes later. Spanish sailors from all the ships attempted to swim ashore, and some of them reached the land. The majority of the officers, including the Spanish Admiral Cervera. were taken prisoners, together with 1,200 sailors. Six hundred of the enemy were killed. When the fight began the New York was bound eastward. She put about when.ten miles away and returned to the scene, although not in time to participate in the battle. Admiral Sampson reached the Brooklyn just as Commodore Schley signaled that the victory had been won, and soon after sent a dispatch boat to Guantanamo to file the first official bulletin of the event. General Nelson A. Miles arrived at the front on July 13, and by his presence added an effective force to the army around Santiago. Negottiations for the surrender of the city had been going on for several days, and on the 16th, after various conferences, terms were concluded. The place chosen for the ceremony of surrender was a gentle slope a little way in front of the Spanish intrenchments and about 200 yards beyond our picket line, on the main thoroulghfare leading eastward from Santiago and known as the Sevilla road. The cavalry was drawn up HEROES OF SANTIA'GO ON LAND AND SEA. in line extending to the left of the road, (Gleneral Shafter and the escorting generals taking position at the rillt. Their horses were hardly brought to a stand before General Toral appeared at the head of a Spanish columnn on the road. The Spanish commander and his escort reined their horses opposite (General Shafter, and a battalion of Spanish infantry, with buglers at their head(, inarched before I im and on down he1 line of American cavalryilen at iquick-ste1p to thle music of the SIpanish blugle salute. When at the end of tlhe line they countermarched, and our buglers chimed in with their salute. It was an odd medley of blariln notes, but extremely thrilling, that lasted until the Slpanish were formed in line facing the cavalry. General Shafter rode forward a few paces and wass met by General Toral. A few words of greeting, with the aid of an interpreter, and tlle aid holding tle latter's sword was sumn-moned to restore it to its owner. General Toral then presented his junior in command, GCeneral Escarol, and General Shafter )preselnted in turn the generals of thle corps. The bugle salutes were repeated and tile Spanish columln marched back to the city, General Torl anl ad his staff following. General Shafter's entrance to the city followed immediately, and he, with his escort, was welcomed to the palace by General Toral, where the local council and other civic officers were in waiting. It was now near 11 o'clock in tlhe morning. The governor, seeking to do the honors properly, had prepareed a luncheon for the general and his principal officers. Members of the staff put in the time strolling about the capture(l city. At 11:45 every one was at his station for the raising of the stars and stripes where no flag SURRENIDER OF nll SANTIAGO BY save Spain's had ever before floated. Rafferty's THE SPANISH squladron of the 2d cavalry stood in a formidable line before the palace. On the broad flag walks bisecting the little square were marshaled all the commanding and staff officers in the order of their seniority, General Shafter standing at the front. Behind was the 6th cavalry band and two battalions of the 2d infantry in line in command of that tall, grizzled Indian fighter, General McKibben. Back of the square in the narrow street in front of the cathedral the remaining battalion of the 2d infantry was drawn up. All stood at attention. The hands on the clock in the cathedral 520 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. tower indicated five minutes of 12. Lieutenant Miley, Lieutenant Wheeler and Captain McKittrick were at the base of the flagpole, Lieutenant Miley, tall and commanding, in the center, holding the halyards and ready to hoist at the first stroke of 12. It was a moment of thrilling suspense which can never be forgotten by any one who witnessed the scene. Every window and portico at every side and corner of that little quadrangle was filled with dusky faces; the great stone steps leading up from either side to the wide portals of the cathedral were packed, and yet not a sound could be distinguished. It was the hush of awe, and the crouching Spaniard in the shade of the street corner must have felt instinctively that a great power was moving there before him. The clock struck. The flag jumped to the top of the mast above the legend "Vive Alfonso XIII." "Present arms!" came from the throat of General McKibben. There was a rattle of saber links and rifle locks. The opening strain of "The Star Spangled Banner" filled the air. Every hat came off, and our handsome banner floated in the breeze, the world's token of a people's government. Then came the merry notes, "Rally Round the Flag, Boys," and the soldiers of America eased their full hearts with rousing cheers, repeated again and again. CHAPTER XXXVII. THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. Spanish Government Forced to Sue for Peace-Preliminary Demands of the United States-Spain Yields to the Inevitable-Full Text of the Protocol-President McKinley Proclaims the Suspension of Hostilities-Blockade of Cuba and Puerto Rico Raised-Evacuation Commissioners and Peace Commissioners Appointed-The Treaty of Peace Agreed Upon-United States Senate Ratifies the Treaty-Losses of the War-War Investigation Commission and Its ReportCuba Evacuated by the Spanish-United States Assumes Authority in the Island. D 1 RIVEN to sue for peace by its succession of disasters, without a single victory, great or small, to encourage its hopes, on Tuesday, July 26, the Spanish government took the first welldefined step to bring about a cessation of hostilities. The French ambassador, acting under instructions from his government, and at the request of the Spanish Minister of Foreign Affairs, called on President McKinley and announced that Spain was ready to consider terms. Nothing was said at this conversation suggesting what the terms might be, the proposition being confined to the one essential point of an earnest plea that negotiations be opened for the purpose of terminating the war. After prolonged cabinet discussions regarding the concessions which should be demanded from Spain, Monsieur Cambon was notified that the President had formulated his ultimatum. The demands made by the President in brief were as follows: 1. That Spain will relinquish all claims of sovereignty over and title to Cuba. 2. That Puerto Rico and other Spanish islands PRESIDENT in the West Indies, and an island in the Ladrones, to McKINLEY OFFERS be selected by the United States, shall be ceded to AN ULTIMATUM. the latter. 3. That the United States will occupy and hold the city, bay and 521 ,-,iOA.A. TIHE END OF T711E1- IVAR' IN CUBA. h.arb)or of Manila,penliltg tlhe c(,clulsionl of fa treaty of,peace, whilch shall determline tlhe (coitl, dlispositionll t11n1 goverllmllent of the Philippiltes. 4. Thatu ('11lba, llPue'lo lico an(l otll'er Slanishl islaiiids ill thle West Indies shall be illlelte(liate'l. evac(l;lt('l, 1Ildl thlat c()olimissiners, t(o ), lapl)poinlted witliiln ten days, sliall wvithinl t hirity days fromII thle signiilu of tlie )rotocol nIeet at HI avana a111d San Juan, respectively, to arara1lge tl1d executet tlle detlails of tlle (evaclllat ion. 5. Tlhat tle l nited States tad(1 Splaill will each aIl))oinlt not mo'e t4-a111 five commlilissioll'rs to negotiate and coniclude t I reat('y f 1)(peace. The coi mmiissioners to meet a t PaIris nlot lalter than Ocl(ober 1. (3. ()On tle silgnin' f ti )e )ro1ocl('1 lhStiliti(s will be slspended(, and notice to t1lhat etfect will be given (s soon as l)possitle 1)' ea(,icl gove'rtn:ent to t]lie co(,()lmnianders of its militlar'v an(l navalt force(s. After an effort onl thle palrt of Ilie MadI(lrid (liilol)lalts to so smodify the terms of these (ldemands as to relieve tlhe Spa'nisll overnment of lat least a portion of tlie Cuban debt, Ambassador CaiI)bon received official notice from tlie ladministration at Madrid that lie was authorized to sign the protocol. At 4 o'clock on tlie afternoon of August 12 lie therefore visited the President's mansion, wrhere signatures and se(l1s were attached to the important document. The full text of the protocol was as follows: Ilis Excellency, M. Cambon, lAmbassador Eixtrlaordinary alnd Milister Plenip(otentiary of the FrencIh l eilublic at \ashington, anld M31'. William Day, Secretary of State of tlie United States, hiavingi received respectively to tlhat effect plenary powers from tlie( S)panist h govern1illn mit and tle governmient of thle United States, lhave estalblislhed Iand sigedl the following articles which define tlie ternms o1n wh1ich1 tlhe two rgovernments have agreed with regard to the questions enumierated below and of which tlhe ob)ject is tlhe establishmlent of peace between lie two coun tries-namrel y: Article 1. Spain will renounce all claim to all sovereignty over and all 1 er rights over tlhe island of Cuba. CESSION, OF TER- Article 2. Spain will cede to tlie United States RTtrrOY TIF the island of Puerto Rico and the other islands wliichl rIITIF)T aTTHE nre at present under thle sovereignty of Sp;in in l the UNITED STATES. Antilles, as All s1 a n island in Ladrona archipelago,. to be chosen b)v the Uniited States. Article 3. The ITnited States will occupy and retain tlhe city a1i bay of San Juan de Puerto Rico and the port of Manila anld bay of Malnila pending thle conclusion of a treaty of peace lwichl shall deiermine the control and form of government of the Philippines. ~~ ---- ~ ---- ~-i~i i —i-; —; —;i --- —- ---— ~ ---~ — - - -:_- ir4 CATHEDRAL STREET~ SANTA 0 DE CUBA FROM THE AREPLC Thipitur~k ft ft i~mnctccp:lw n tn lyt aro~ t~A i f flinoc cc tcnmithusnTicciia icci r4ttd of fttnct acstwacery.I hn akrad r h ma anso ua U o"'"* ' 0,I -I~ '.:: ' 70 777_ 7_ Jlill _m22 l ~~~~~~1i31 1 _1>., x~~~~~~~~g Xo~~~~~~b:.g."'',~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~t:,:; "_ 11 t7 f'f B 00 1 I I 2 EOX~~~ I' j ' i 2: 0 i '-r- 1 1 W XlS~~~~~~i I 4. _ - l l _1 7#3 g~~~~~~~~~~~~ms '.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ i_ rr 7'111E END 1F J11'E IIA11 IN CUBA. ) 1 -2 A/rti(l'I 1-. >'jaini \wtil iii1m ed1iatel ev 11acitte (211)4, Puleto() ico,() lanltdl li( (e l(rl isla lllds 11i(w n11 tll '1 ' ) isli s ve S re'l iglty ill ti(' \I illi hs. 'To t1Ilis fttec't (1 ct-i (, 111t 1\iW tIewo gove\'!lllIelts will alllp int c(I lllsllliSioell ''S w\it liil t('ll ( ays i1(' t tile siniiiLi ()1' this p 0ro)t( 1, andll thliese (c)lill1lissio)1le 1rs s 11 1 1 I1. an w, tt It I v a1 I I. t I i I I 1 i i I t. I y aol e ' thie s ig n ii Ii 1 l is ) t o )(( hl e \i I o 1 l (the i ) II i I Inin I ) 1 (, e I I I( I t, I aheeln re 1 ir I t heI tca i; v 1 n ( t ( ft he detai ls (f 1e 1 fores aid evacIat ion of CI nt t 4t)f1i1 tL j1l('lcet Sl)lpal;s1l isl1ad1(ls; 11(d (achlt oftl the \- 4) l!OVrl' ll('11ts shail like('wise ail pl),I ilit wi)liiln tW i l;11 S afltl t el(' (' l '1;11 itl'' ((P ii'r til1 s 11 i tl' )lt,( tliIi'1rV 41a S te the signa r or I Si liptile (t tios i )O f'JI, 1u oIl' ('( )lJ tI tie (1 dtalils (f thIe evac('latio of( Puerto Hico a11d1 other islands MOW Undler Spa unis sli o s(4'4ee i( Ivt y i I1 he A It i Iles. Ar'ticle 5. S inl11 ' 1ad t11k ll1ited States sa1111 iali)4lt 1o trealt for peace ii.l~lle l issi(ollls a:t ' et l ill'tl. tfo)l e iltle(r (o l ir.!The c(itl issi)lnersS sli111 14meet iln Paris o1 (cto)el:1 at the latetst t1l 4p1)(o-eed t1o I!(e otia tio) 115s l11a t1 o11c4 ki o teaty!i ( (f (ea '1e. V ) T hisi te1a.tV slItal be a Itified i11 (co1nfo'1t111 w ith tile ct ( slt t itstioial laws of e(a1 ch of li4, 1 W,) (i' )111111' S;. sIfiall be sstp'edled, ad ll il( t1) t IIet 1 ii the tw)) 4)co1t ies orIlers shall 11(e (i \ven bv e(il le' ghvr n 1't1(li ftI t 1il ( il01111llilll(ers of its 1a1lf1 alld s(ea for'1e as sp 1'ledily;s p1)ossiblel'. Dl)ol in d111plic('te 11It W\ shill tont, 'ea illn e('nch a11] illn n lishl by the lllldelrsilled, whNXo af-ifx att thlle foo(t f tlle d(cillulent their sil!at 1114's a11( 4'11,s A itIus 2, 1S9S..JUII'S (\IAMOi)N, WILLIA[M H. DAY. The President- iissued(lialtely iss1e the follmxilrg p)Ioclamat 4tio:ll lBy the President (4f 11' e Ulitjed Sttates of Am-erica ---A Pr l(4kam111 ion. WXhe1'eas, 1 (a)1 4oool (o 0c(lu4ded a1 sie41 dl August 12, 1S4S. by Williamll I. Da)y, Se(retar.y of State (If t11e rtuil('1 States, 8l114 Ills I'x. 4ell ec Jil J Ies ( att ou,1 A a i lssad or Ext ra (o di narv,1 141 Plenipoten ti a11'y ~of Ille {eplublic of 1 Fral4lce atl Wa1lslilltt011, respectl'tivel'x repr'es('nltii for t]his l4'l)purpose( te }v{'('i~i.]t of tlle litled ( lStats 14nd th-le sgov'rllt of Spin, tle( Iit I d Stalt es a nd Sp27 without alteration by the United States Senate. The treaty in full is as follows: The United States of America and Hler Majesty the (1ueen eRegent of Spain, in the namle of her aulgust son, D)on Alfonso X11I,.lesirillg to edl the state of wr n)ow existilng between the te to countries, have for t.hat )pllrl)ose apjpoiiltl as plenilpotentialries: Thie Plresidlent of thle UIltqiedl Staltes, Willi;tam 1. l)ay, (ullsllman K. l)avis, WilliatJI P. l'Frye', G( )'eorge G(Iray an1d vWhitelaw leidc, citizens of the United Stat es. A dl 11er Ml;j'estl, tl'(e Queen IUtegei It of Spail, i)Don EuLgenic Montero lios, prl'esilen1.t of t1 ilie Seiazte; D))ot luueuauventulta (de AbarzmIza, Selna to ol ( tle i ilg(lol al1 ex-m i nister (o lieI crown; l)on Jose Ide ( arnica, ldepiltv to tle (C1jortes anld associale justice of the Sulpreiie Court; Don X\eiccslao IK(amlirez (de \illla Firt tia, enllvoy ext-l)aolrdillnary alnd lminlister tple11 i \ t!.po t e ia i — (Issl sI, )on a ( c r roener l Itf (livisio; ph 1J( ), 1i.i i 8 >.1S iv l tliel i }1( 111(1 I 11(1i,.(l thi c iro, lo X 1 1 Whiio, halving assemibled in Paris alnd having exchlanged their full powers, which were found to be il dlle andl proper form, have, after iis(tussion of thle ilatters before thlie, a.greed upon the followitn 1arti(cles: Article 1. Spain rclinqushel s all claim of sovereignty over and title to (1Cb. All as8 tihe is1lald( is, 11poln ils evac(tuationl by Spain, to be oc'cupliedl by the TlUnited States, tll United States wAill, so long' ais such o)'c'cltioain shiall last, assulme and discharge the obligalions that n ay, dler interlatial onal law\, resullt froml tle fact of its occupation, for the pr~otec(tion of life tlnd I(1)l) elty. Article 2. Sp.ain ce(l(les to t le Unit(d St ates the islan(ld of P'erto Rlico and olt er islandis now inder Spanish sovereignty in the West Indlics and I(te island of (GIut in tlhe Mariantas, or LaIdrones. Article 3. Spain ced(es to tlhe United Slates the archipelago knoiwn as thle l 'ilillppinel islandls, and collpIlrehen(lillng the islands lying within lihe following line': A line running from west to east along or near tlie I wentietit l)aIrallel of norll ti ltitlude iand tihrough thle middlle of tlhe navigable channel of l:achli, front tile one Ihndred andll eig'hteeiit (11 1St) to the one hundred a-11d twenty-seventh (127th) degree nmeridian o lolngitude east of ireenwic, thlence a!lonr tlee te one i TItT lundred and twent-y-seventil (127th degree meridian of longitude east of G(1reenwich to tlie pa'ralle of four O IHIE de(grees and forty-five minutes (4:453) nort-h latitude, IIIIME. th(en(e along thle plarallel of four de'grtees and forty-five minutes (4:45) ior-th latitude to its intersection with the meridian of longitude one lhundred and nineteen degrees and tlhirty-five minutes (119:35) east of Greenwich, thence along t-lie mernidian of longaitude one hundred and nineteen legrees and thirty-five minutes (119:35) east of Greenwich to the parallel of latitude seven degrees and forty minutes (7:40) north, ~-1-~~C~~c~C~-LI \~ L~~-*~~CL ~~JU~r~~r~Lr 1-~ FI~~CJ _~~LM/ LJ ~~Ln r) >2 t LTHE END O; T1HE IAR IN CUBA. thvence: allolg the pl arllel of lat itudle sevell ldeltgrs anlld forty lilnutis (7:40) nlorttlh to its ilntersection Awithl the onlie 1lull(r11d a11(l sixtee('lntt (11tll(t) deg'ree mieridlian ()f loInlitliude cast of (IGreelwivich, thll(ece by a dlilectt lile 1) t te illtelsecti(lln of thel' tentl l (10thll ) (legr(e,ll'arllel oI n(orll la.titude w\ith the one undiled and eighll(teent (IIst 1l) (tdleg'1ree ridial l of lonlgitlde east olt (o Gir\\'vich',;1(1. tlle'1('e loig ll the 1( d11111re'(.111a1 cig,'teeli It 1 (It Sth) ((degr e' meridialin of lon)litude east of ( reenwich to tIle, point-t of begrilililln. 'The 1tilted l State(s will p11a to p81ill tilte 11111 Of twe\lty Imillio(l dl1llais (2 )0,00i)0,000) wxithill thlice i(ionlths kalt er tlhe1 ex'lag1,1(e of the rlltiic'ltationis fi l t eilh p e"sel i t I teavlI. Ar 1t ie 1. The t lit ed(1 Staltes will for the I rl ( of 1 en years fl(omi ilte daIte of he (xclaige o4f J l e razihs oIt icaIItItis tof Iie 1preselt treaty, a1v iit( Sp:iii sli ils 1 l 1(,1.ll: merch(liIllise to tl1e lports (of th lPhllilil)pine islands on the saie. termlls as shipil s 111 11erc14(lan11ise (of the IUllit(ed Staltes. A l i (le 5. The I llited Satet ((s will, 1 l))ll tie sill'gnature o)f e ti) lprsient t realy, s(1ld Iback t I Spalin, (Iat its o)Al (co4st, t( he S )anishl s1ld4 i rs a1 ke as pris(o1tIers (f war on Itlie (cap) t Ire of Ma I: il a 1) b the A\ (IIri (caI fi( Ice s. T'lle i 'ills of it (e sol die (rs ill (qt1(sti(on sitall 1)be resto4)red(l t tl( hem. Spain A-l 11wilttol e X lll, 1e (If lthe rat itif.calions o(f i lthe prles(,l( (e-ti, lt t eed 1) (oev:acuat the lllippi)ies, -as w ell as ilth islam)1 ()f Ii uaI<, l on t1erms simil ar i tlhose 1agreeld ips4n11 bl I ie th ( )1 iloissiollers Oap(oi)ei tedo ( arra lnc, e for (hie eva(.1c ti( on (l Puerto I'li(.(); a1i1 o(fl( er islan ls in tlhe West l(dies l nejl(e]. t1l( 1plrtoo)('(l (f Au\,gust 1^, SS wlicl is t() c(111.t ill n f11 or(e t ill its prl)visi(ns 1re( (c )lpletel( ly <,execilt o(l. The 1(-1im withiin which lthe evacia Ition11 of the Ph'lippine islahindss 1d1 (11a1111 sha11ll be (')1completed(1 shall1 be fixed by ( le tw()o ol()ermV(1} t 1 s. St 811(s ()f (co4)rs, ln(capl)(ule(l war v\(essels, sima8111 a:')is, gu'lis ()f 11ll c(alibe)rs, with tl(heir c(arria(ges a1(l at((ccesse()i(s, po(wd1 l(itI, 8) iIIII11, live s(1-ock and1 I11nateria.Is 1 s1 sulpplies of,all 1kidils, belongling, 1) t 1(he 1at1d and 11a val forces (oft Snain in the Plllilil)lpiles 1d(1 (Glam, (1remain lle propert(, y of Spalin. rpROPERTY V ]Pieces of (heavv o(ldlilce( exc( llsive (of field artill ery. TINSFElRE> BYr in 1 tl, flIt'oitific.tio1)s:1111 (o(ast (ldefenses, slhall rem(11ial Tl1E THEAlelnls for tlihe t1erm of six itontltlhs, to E be rlec)kolnedl from the exchliane, (f ra titica'tiolls of tlse t reaty v; and(1 thle Untiil (ed States may, in the ianit ilme, lpurchias(e sili ma)terial from Spl)ain, if a satisfactorly a-'greemelnl t l between the two gov(111111'n(nts on tile sbl)ject shall be re(ac(led. Arti((ce (. Spain will, upon Illie signa tlr(, ()f thle presenlt treaty. releasoe all prisoners of war and all persons (letained or iimprisoned fo> p1)lit ical offenses, in (col(nectiolln with tl1(, insiurrections in Cuba andl thi Ph'lilipp-ines and til(e war with h]ie United States. 11e(ilprocally, the United States will relea(-se all persons made prisoners of war by tlhe Americaqn forces and will n(ldertalke to obtain 'tht(' release of a1ll Sp)anish prisoners in the hands of the insunrgents in Cubli.'d1 (lle( Philippines. '1till ]IX (O)I TIlIL i I'.1 1 (j lU.v 'i',T,' ove, tnl'ill(,ilt (, i h t I'l itcd States wiill, t its 'vII co.)s,!i et,!llu'n to Spaill, 11 l tie( (liego er)v'lil 111 (, of Spli will if l, lt It its own, t l ble relasiel by thle(m, (res)pect l ivel), nde(l.'r this lartice. ill(, sit.llei (ii of, Ill('it' l'r~(.~qc,(i v(, l()l>1lts, 1)'i s,(llel-'s ~'; l('lxl(, (l (i' ~;'lisc '(l 1[() c(lims fo io i ((:1 (1 it, uti(ial aid t i l dividual, of eve-y 1. I, o eit o(er(l1'o111( o it' Is ) 0' iS citizj("I ()1' sitje('c't, lagalillst. tlie otih(lr he \ govern( i et ithat, may have 1tarise 11 si ce i the beoi 111 lo of t1 late 1 ilsurctlioll i ( 0 t1b)a a1l1 Iprior to Itbe ex ae of ratiicat11 1 o1 s of ihe 1 lpreseti t(et ilncludillng all lfcaiis for iIIdemh IIit v for I lIe cost of lite wart'I. T'e U llited Statl(es will adj(li ic ateli( 11 settle the l( c'f lils ( ils (Iitizenls:~agailst. Spaini r(linqltlished ill thiis a'ltic(e. Art i(cle S. In c('l011 oliit v w-it th i le 1jplovisions of Articl(s 1, 2 8ld1 (of thisi t; reatv, Spain rieli 11i1 ishles ill ( l Cuba, a nd cedes in Pu, t l ) Ki 111 ot llll (l' iislaids(l i ln t lie \\est 1 ll( lie,$ inl tlhe is1lal(d o ft ( lu:111 anll1 i l tiet l'li pilii ii a tlrchipela o, al l te bIildiilgs, wlv le" ti, baIv'l1 aclI I s, l(t:I,'l, stirullcti s,! puliic hii ihw Vs 1(ll id ot (1r i oliii able Ip)l'(p 1( t1y I ii l, i ' cO lilfo`i l ii t w ii law I, betl;gl( to Ilhe l ic ()1c 1 ill ali aln as s (l su l o lI3li, o1) til(, c'(ow li of Sp1)ain. A t1(l itt iS is IeIeby decla(Ied tt that lie( relinllu(isl(hmenlt (r ce(ssionl, as illt( c(ase 1ll Ve, 1(to w ic.I - li tie(' pr'ecedig p( 11'arap i es'(, cannolt iII al v respect-, impatir th-1e propertv ow ri'dits Awlhich bv law PPOPE r i'(Sle('tl illlill li' l lie J(l')( ei't Vll 01' 'ii glist W lii 'li 1) 11 w ki lds, of prlovillces, 111111li(.ii lliiics, 1)pub)lic(' o01 privIat(e: I i i1. establiishliiients, e('(cclesiastic'al or ('ivic bo(d(lies or alnly (1li,'e ass0cialtiions lhaiviig l (']'ai ('c(pacity I a'( c lire 11(1 possess pr)elit(l in the ('aforesaid teitores (eiioiiced i 1( cleded, or ii(f private isl.s{(lve1idlslty, of whatf soevel 1}i:tl ationallt s)ch i it sidivid111 1 1ay, be. TIne aforesaid relinqlislieilt: o ces(' sio-t i, 8as t i'ase ei 11,v be, in-: cluides all d01uienis exclisivelyv refrcrvii II o fiie soveeit relinqo uishell(l ' Cided itha,' t 111is v elit ill hlwe ahSpiives on f ithe peli inisuli. aI(ere any docuimelit il suc(1 8Vrchies'ic olv inl part1 re1 laoes i( sallid so erei g ilty acop l of suci pt( ) will be fi ni i ished ilwl en eve(' it- sal fl be requeste(d. Iike mr es 811811l be lredi' y o il 0()served inl fa o (of Sa aill in reSpqect of docwllimeats inI tihe ar(1c1iv(es (of the islands above refei'ied (to. In tile 8aoresam(1eid relinquisimei(t'1 or c('essioli, a8 th le case 1118av 1e,1 are also included Such rights as the crow- of Spain a1( its authorities <'lted copies of thle eonn(tracts, wills and oilier instrllllulents forming part o(f notiaria l protoeols 1 o files, or whlichl may he (contailed(1 in t}he exec t iv ( (l jludicial archives, be the l atter in Spain or ili the islands aforeisaid. THE END OF THE W;fAR IN CUBA. Article 9. Spanish subjects, native s of the peninsula, residing ili the territory over which Spa il by the )pesent treaty relillquishes or cede., her sovereigl ty, illmy remlaill in such territ ory or ulllly remove therefromll, retainillg iln either ev\ent all tlleir rigllts of property, includingl t he riglli to sell or (lispose of such prop)erty or of its proceeds, and they shall also have the riglt to( crry on their industry, commerce and professions, being subject in respect tlereof t:o suc1( laws as are alpplicable to othll foreigners. Inl case tlhey remaini ill the territory they lmay )preserv'e their allegiance to tlhe crown of Spain by lmakling, before a court of record, withiiin a year fromt tlie date of the exchange of ratifications of tlhis treaty, a declaration o f 1their decision to preserve such allegiance; in default of wlliclh dleclalratiol thley slhall be iheld to hIave rlenounced it andl to have( adopted Ille natilnality o(f tlhe territory in wllich tley lay reside. The civil rights anld political status (of the native inllabitants of t1h territories lherein ce(ledt to hle United State-s shall be determined by 1 he congress. Article 10. The inhlabitants of tlhe territories over which Splain relinquishles (or cedes her sovereignty slall be securedl in the free exercise of their relioion. Article 11. Tlhe Spaniards residing in the territories over whicll Spain by thtis treaty ce('des (or relinquislhes lher sovereignty sllall be subject, in matters civil as well as criminal, to the jurisdiction of tle cou(rts of tlie country wherein they reside, lpurs1uant to the ordinary laws governing tlle same, and they sihall thave e tlriight to appear before s1ic( courts anl to pursue tlie same courrse as cit izens of tlie country to whichl the courts belong. CIVIL POITIC Article 12. Judicial proceedings pending at the CIVIL, POLITICAL r IAX JUDTICIL time of tlie exchange of ratifications of this treaty in COn)ITION. tlhe territories over whicll Spain relinqulishes or cedes I her sovereignty shall be determined according to tlhe following rules: 1. Judgments rendered eitler in civil suits between private individuals or in criminal imatters before tlie (late rmnentioned andl with respect to which thlere is no recourse or righlt of review under tle Sl)anisl law shall be deemed to be final and( shall be executed in duel( form by competent autlhorities in the territory within whichl suchli judgments shouldl be carried out. 2. Civil suits between private individuals which may on tlhe date mentioned be ulnd(eterlinledt slall be prosecutedl to jludg(ment )before tlie court in wlicl they may theln be pending, or in tlle court that may be substituted therefor. 3. Criminal actions pending on ttle (late mentioned before the supreme court of Spain against citizens of tlhe territory whvich by tlis treaty ceases to be Spa nishl shall continue under its jurisdiction until final judgment; but such judgment l.having been rendered, the execution THE END OP TIIE WAR iN CUBA. thereof shall be com( nlitte(dl t: 1 ( com(lpetent authority of the place in \whlich thle case( a'rose. Artlil( 13. 1 (,The rights of property secure(d by coplyrighilts and patents aclqirel(d by Slpanliards in tlh, Isllandl of (Clba alll P'uerto lico, the l'lhilippiil(es an1d olther ceded territories at the tillle of the exchlange of tlie ratific(lations of this trleaty sliall conltilue to be respected. Spanish sci(entific, literary and artistic worlks not subver'sive to Ipublic order in thel terrlitories iln question shlall c(onlinuel to be aldnitt(ed free of duty into sulch terrIitories for tlhe leriodl of tel yeasrs, to Ib) reckoned from the date of thle exc(11hange of tlhe rati-ficlations of thlis treaty. Article 14. Spain will tlhave the power to establish consular offices in tIl(e l orts alld pla (es of the terrlitories the sovereignty over which has bee(n i eithlier re(lilislied or ceded by the )reselit treaty. Article 15). The govern111ent of ea ch country will, for tlhe termI of tell years'1l, accor'do to thle ilmercliant vessels of t1le otiher coluntry the saiie treat(lient in respect of all port clarges, inclul1inlo entranc.(e and clearanIIice (dues, liglit (1(dues and tonnage duties as it accords to its own mer(ichliant vessels Inot enga;ged( in tlie coatstwise trade. This artiicle lmay ait any tile be terminlated on six months' notice given by (itllher goverinment to the other. Article 16. It is understood that any obligations TRADE AND asslimi(l in tlhis trteaty by tlie Ilited States witl re- (M spect to ('llba atre limited to tlhe time of its occupancy STIPULATIONS. therelof, but it. will, upon) tlhe term1inalti(on of su(ch occulllan cy, a(lvise any government establislied in tlie island to assume the samne obligations. Article 1i7. Tle present treaty shall be ratified by the President of tle 1lUited States, by and witlh t1le a(1lvice andl consent of the Senate tllereof, and by Iler Majesty tlie 2Quee1 of Splain, and tlLe ratification sli:ll be exchanged at Waslington within six months froln the date thelreof, or earlier, if possible. In faitll wl(ereo((f, Twe, tlie respective plenipotentiaries, hIave signed this treaty and hlave hereunto afhix(ed our seals. Dol)ne iln dlplicate at 'Paris, tlhe 10(th day of December, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and ninety-eighlt. WILLIAM R1. DAY. C(USIIMAN K. DAVIS. WILLIAM P. FRYE. GEORIIGE GRAY. WIIITELAW REID. EUGENIO MONTERO RIOS. B. DE ABARZ1UZA. J. DE G ARNICA. W. 1R. DE VILLA URRUTIA. RAFAEL CERRERO. )r, ^ TIlE END OF THE WVAR IN CUBA. lit thle a1111111;l mlessagle of lPresildenlt McKinfley, slubl)litte(l to ( )oii'ess atI the l peli g of i lie session ill Deelber, 189), lie recapitulates tlie losses to A elicaIn arI s during the war. The( total casualties of the arlIy was as follows: O()fleficers kl illed, 2 2; lte en klle total, 28(. Oti('(l's w)1ound1led, 11:; eiilist(led tmel woundeld, 1,464; total, 1,577. Of tlie navy: Kille(td, 17; oun,; oud ( died as a result of wolunds, 1; invalided firomi service, (; tot/al, 9(). Il the entire campaign by land and sea, we did Iot lose a gu,11 or a olag, or tral)sport, or a Ship exce)t the Merrimlac, sunk by our own choice and by our own men; and witlh the exception of the crew of the Merrimlac, not a soldier or a sailor was taken prisoner. The foregoing statement of casualties makes no mention of d(eaths resulting flrom siclkness il the arI', a. aIl tter on \which tile sta.tistiics never can be c(omllete unitil aiiiple tile has elapsed to trace tlhe hlealth conditions of the men who (have comie holle from the war. It is possible to sa-:1 lhere dolys tha;t the (l(ealt s iln CubIa1 from) ty)l(hoid, yellow fever Iand malarial fetl f e(1 ver a ver(y 1arge nu1ber in 1the aryiv, a11d that in Puerto Rico typhoid and nalarial fevers claimed many victims. 11ul(dre(ls of othliers underwent illness which did not BLAIME FO{ TIE e(ndl in death, but left the men wetakened in constituSUFFERING OF THIE ARMY. tion. The 1)repl;ar'ations made by, tlie War I))epartment authorities for lned(ical and surg'ic(.l attendance in the hospitals and for foee(ling tlie arm1y were so shockingly inaldequate and inefficient that the country justly holds that service to blame for the enormous amount of 1unnecessary and s perflulous suffering. Early in tlie fall a comlmission of in(jquiry was appointed by the President, in response to the national clamor that an investigation be made as to the managemlent of the war. There was a universal feeling that the responsibility for the culpable mismanagement of many essentials slhloul be fixed, kand the gllilty punished. The commissionl traveled all about tlhe country, holldin sessions and hearing testilmony. For some reason it failed to establish itself very firmly in the public confidence, and the feeling existed that a congressional investiga"tion rwuld be required before satisfactory judgment would be pronounlced on General Shafter's management of the Santiago campaign. Tlie Presidential comIlmissiion left an impression wherever it traveled tlat THE END OP THE ' WAR IN CUBAI. it was nmade up of attorleys for the (lefense inst;ea(l of those taking:t judicial position and seeking for the trulit, let it blame whom it might. Whenrl finally the conmmission made its report, it was found that mlild rebukles were distrilbutled rigll t anId left with consid(lrable freedom, but that thl blale was not centAer(ed in such a way that any Ipunishment colld be visited upon thle gilty. It. is sufficient to say here that popular jlludglent did not 2agree with the coml(' issioners as to the culpability forl the Ilnnecllcssary suffe:ring that; liad been undergone by our army an tlhat the opinions of most people were very well defined. As tih( end of tle year drew nigh and the time of transfer from Sp)anisll to nlerican rule in Cuba approached, conditions in iavana becamite miore aind more unsettled. Several American Ien-of-war were (ordlered to the city in ordler thlat their marines and jack-tars would be on hland to )preserve lp)(eac( in the vetllnt of an eruption between tle departin' SIpaniisl sollldiers:ndll t1l whe eixulta lt Cubans. Finally, lhowever, on the lst tlay of Janualry, 18S!)!, the Spanish yoke was lifted fromn Cuba andl the Americans assumed( full SPANISH SOVEREI(INTY IN coInt-ro. I1avana was th-e scene of tlhe mlost significant CEUIA E1ED). events of tle transfer of sovereignt-y. In the tlhnder of a hundred guns Ilie red an(l g(ol stanlllard(l of Spaiu dropped from the flagstaff at noon andl. (aptain-( (leral Ca.stellanos, tihe last viceroy of Cuba, surrendered tthe island and all it coltaiire(l to Generall Wa(de and ~(leneral Blntler of thet Amnlleric(an evacuation commission. Cuba was freed from the Spanish yoke. CHAPTER XXXVIII. REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. Value of Personal Reminiscences of the War-A Soldier's Diary of the Campaign Before Santiago-Disembarkation at Baiquiri-Rainy Weather in Camp-A Day of Awful Fighting-The Surrender of the Spanish-A Guard in the Yellow Fever Camp-Arrival of American Troops at Havana-In Camp Near the Cuban Metropolis-Christmas Festivities-A Journey from Havana to Cienfuegos. A S A preliminary to a series of personal impressions and recollections of the soldiers and sailors who served in the Cuban cantpaign, it is necessary to say that one tling must be remembered always in reading such wherever they are printed. Though invariably interesting, they are not always accurate. This comes from no fault of the men who tell the stories, but from the peculiarity of the conditious. The soldier serving whlere his regiment is stationed, or the sailor on a single ship, has but a limited point of view. What lie tells of tlhe progress of a battle may be perfectly correct as far as it applies to ai incident passing under his own notice, but utterly mnisleading in re(lation to a general engagement. Ilis perspective is at fault. Again the same man's judgment on personal characteristics of natives, or their manners of life and their merits as soldiers, may be based on exceedingly limited opportunity for observation. These facts do not impair the entertaining interest of such recollections, but they are to be kept in mind when one is seeking for definite sources of information on actual conditions in foreign lands. The selection of personal remilliscences which follows has bee'l made from letters and newspaper interviews in order to give an idea of the service afloat and ashore in t1h Cuban camiaigl as judged by the men who did the work of destroying Spanish power in the island. 534 REMINISCllCEiS o0P 771'12 CUBAN WAR. T'hey were brave men, fighting for their country, doing whatever duty caine to hand and nlaking a name for the United States suchl as it had not before among the other nations of the world. All honor to the IiIen of the arniv land n1avy. One of the ALLiNR DUE TO THIE MEN mIost interesting personal accounts of service in the WilO FIGIT. calmpaign before Santiago is that taken from an officer's diary an(ld extendlin fro (l the day of disembarklation at Baiquiri to the surrender of the Spanish forces. It is so characteristic of the service that many men saw that I give it in full herewith. "June 24-B-egan ldiscnblarking the regiment at Baiquiri, Cuba, early this morningi, cand before noon the entire command was on shore. WTe brought our sllclter tents and tlree days' rations, and to-night we are bivouacked along t:le road leading eastward to Siboney. To have escaped alive froml tliat transport seems to me like a release from prison. The day's labor of bringing off the men in small boats has been immense, and I am nearly exllausted. Still I aml delighted to set foot again on land. To have been cooped up for two weeks on a transport in this climate is nothing less than torture. If we had been able to sleep in our staterooms we mightt not have had so great cause for complaint. But they were mostly below decks, and we were lucky to find a dry place on the hard upper deck where we could lie down in our blankets. The men have had to sleep in bunks three tiers deep. "June 25-Marched with the regiment to Siboney, a hard tramp, over a rough road. We are encamped to-night on the side of the hill above the town. It is a filthy spot; but the water is good. Siboney is only a group of single-story frame houses, but it is the terminal of the Juragua railroad, that brings ore from Juragua, five miles in the interior. There is a roundhouse and one or two machine shops and lumber mills. I hear that Wheeler's division has had a lively skirmish up the road and drove the enemy back. "June 26-Marched twelve miles, over a bad trail from Siboney. Suffered intensely from the heat. Regiment halted repeatedly, but arrived here in bad condition. Rations low and no more in sight. Have eaten the last of my bacon and had to borrow a hardtack from the ser geant. Regret I was not with Wheeler. Rough riders seem to have been hard hit. Poor Capron! Too bad he fell so soon. REIn' i. [\Vi sc( ITL CI,( S O- 1111 CUBANi, WAR. "Jutie 28-T'1'(o dys eiC('iali)( pe in lliS I) pl(c. All lst; Iligt was on0 outjpost duty, landl aplproachl(ed very nlear to elnel(1y's (oultpo)(sts on t.le ralnge of high hills running parall(el to tlhe valley t:llrough, which we are inarching. Camle back soake(l to the skin; but I was able to take non() of ily 1):ibggagt ()fT til tl ranspIolrt, anld will lhave to weanr Iliese Vet cl()ll(es until they are dry. It was a hard night's dluty. After 1)1SCO )MY;Oh TS OF IF IN sytati()ltingi t twoa1 lldthree m1en tog)(ether at intervals in WET (CAMI. A the mllanner ()f (Cossack pickets I ha(d to visit them from timle to title. Could not get throug(l tlhe brush wvithlout a great nloise, except by crawlingr, ai(ld iy legs and face and hands to-dlay are raw with scratches. T'ricket almllost inlpenetrable in the daLytiiine. lRepeatedly caulght glimplses of eneminy, but did not rouse thelu; only observed tlhir I.lovemlents. "Jule 29-Soaked aain. Campll is like a imudl-puddlle. Some of the men have built cots out of bambboo p1oles to keepl tlhem off the wet ground. I awoke this morningl to find nmyself surrolun(lded b)y water, lmy blanket wet and1 not a dry spot in siglt. Tlis afternloon the sun shone for a fewn minutes; but tlme rising va,(por ml(ade us ()nly more wretched. Got a ration of white beans to-(lay, and had one goo(l meal. 'Don't eat umangoes, either raw or stewe(l, is tle advice of a imian who has ex(perimented an(d feels the consetquences. "Julne 300-Tlere's trouble aheadl to-mllorrow. Broke campl suddenly, this afternoon, and have been marching forward along the main trail leading to Santiago ever since, and it's midnight now. Am told that the enemy's out)osts are only a few hundred yairds ahead of us, at El Poso, though I believe tlhey will not make a stand there, and we shall easily drive tlhem into -tle city. A moure difficullt malrclh 1 have never heard of. Wee were told to comiie along the mtain trail, and ever since we started we hlave been jammed iirst on one flank and then on the other by regiments pu)shilng ito tlhelt trail and tryingl to advanIce at the same time. IRo(ad miuddy alndl confusion frighltful. Snatched a few minutes to write this, because can't tell whalt may happen to-morrow. We rest here, getting wlhat sleep we can on the bare ground, for two hours. At 3 o'clock we take uIp our advance, expecting to engage tlie enlemy at daybreak. "July 1 —A N (ay of awful fighlting. T wr ite( this while TI wat cl a REIINISICIENClES O'1 THE CUBAN WAR. r^t'0'. & dletail of mlen tllhroN 111) itlreilnchellllnts on tlhe lill w(e took this after11011, tlh.ouh we are mTore talial dt(,ecimatl (c. I amn tlhe olly collmmissione(d (oillcer left in I1ly c(mlpany-tlhilnk of it; but thbree wee(ks away from the Poinit, and I hve a compal)y! ()c(casional slhots cole froml enemly's lines. I can just mllake them (olt in the moonlight-a tlini, yefllow linie al11ng a low ri(lge btwteen 11s aInd thel outskirts of Santiaglo. \Ve 1have lbeen viclori i ous, bt at a. frightfil cost; and after ( arcling since( early l(orningl lying for two hours in E BATTLE....,,I t SAN JUtAN a cr(eek up1 to our waists and chlarging, at double timie N AFTER Ipll tlis hill we thave nothing to eat. General Kent has julst sent over to borrow twoo hardtacks of Captain --. lleally 1 ldon't see 11ow we are 't get rations up here. The roadtl as far back as I IIhave seen it is kne(-deep w.it1h mud.l1( "July 3-All ri-ght again,}1 thou-lh it was near enough(. Early Salt(r(day 111rninlg I was standing behind the trenchles when a s}hot passedI:;c(ross the small of lmy back. It grazed my 1backbone and knocked i (, dlown. I was taken back to the hospital, but only a very little treatment was necessary. I rested yeststerday and walked( back to rejoin comlllmandl tlhis afternoon. I am becomingl horriblyl tireld and feel wetak, but otherwise I lam well. Lattilions are' still short. I ulnderstallnd slhalrpslhooters a8te keeping back our 1packl-tr'ain. (Cervera's fleet left tlhe hIlrbor yesterlay, a1(1, I nnl(Ierstland, it was smasllhe. The enemy attacked ti e lines to tlhe righlt of us last nigtli, but only t)wo men were hit. "ulv 4 —Thl(ere is sooie lprospelt of sl(eelp to-niglht, for the first time si1c(e Friday, wIen we took liis liill. To-dl-ay Shafter sent in a (demandt for the surrender of the city iunde' a fl;hg of tiruce and1 the answer will be imade to-morrow. (lot a can of tomiaitoes and some tobacco from tlhe (co(lmslissary to-dly. AWe ar'e a1 still sil slhort raltis of bacon, hardtack and coffee. HIaven't e slee s fugar for a week. "July 5 ---Went dowAn 1ito leadqlualters, wllich is located near where ure calmped a. week ag80o, and broughl t up some rations. Enelmy's shlarpslhooters pay no iee(dl to truce (ori tihe redl cr(osVs.. As I crossed a creel satw one of them in our uniforml lying on branch of tree over road. IIe was trying to get a shot ft soldiers who were filling tlleir canteens and didn't see me. I picked hliim off willth my revolver. Wa1s slhot at several tilles on tlie way back.. Now tlhe safest place is on tle firingl line. REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN IVIAR. "Lielltenat - of tlhe Ninthi tells iie( olr slharpshooters 11havle niot been idle. I e s1ays one of his seI'reatsII picked the Slpalnishl ene' Linares off a. white horse yester(day at 1,200 yards. "July 6-Toral, the Spanisll,generall who 1succeeded Linares, seetms to want fight. They say his answer to Shlafter was a sharp refusal to surrender, alnd a remninder that the fever and climlate inight soon weakle us. There has not been much si(ckess tllus far, and yet after what we have been 1 trough since landing in (balll) there are plenty of leien who look as if a very little (more )wouldll lay tlhei( out. "July 7 —Tlle rain has found us again.. Trenches are ll of water, but we have to stay in them, though ve, are soaked to the skin. The.arnny poncho is a fraud. A good slhoer wvets it throlghll wiithin fifteen mninutes. Last nigt it Ilie w)orst electricall stormll I e ver witlne(ssed stlruck us. Liiglttiing llaved albout the summiliit of the liill lhere for hours. It was worse tihan beiing udller fire. It fact, my sensations under fire am)ount to nothing, except wien a t battery is around. I can't help ldodging every titime a field piece is (lischarged. ",July 8 —Still it rains. I haven't lhad a change of funderclothing for two weeks, and I see no prospect of getting these I have on washeld. The sun shines only a half-hour in the morning, anld I)ItE:NCIEDI) 1Y I have nothin to wear while these aIre drying. We are TIlE I)OW'NPOUR OF ]RAIN.,,getting rations slowly now. But this truce is becoiming tiresome. I hear the enemy offers to evacuate if they can march o(ut with tlheir arms andt thel honors of war. The wvhole army raves at the propo(sal, but it hias been referredl to Was\ingliton. "July 9-Still it rains. I 1ad a touch of malaria last night, but was given some (quinine and feel better. I believe thle truce will end tomorrow. "July 10-Bombardment of Santiago began alt 4:30 this afternoon. Enemy replied at first with spirit, but several of their batteries were soon silenced. Two modern guns to the right of us cause(l no end of trouble until our guns found tlie range. We shortly shut them up. Enermy's rifle fire was also heavy. But it was clouly when the firing, began, and shortly darkness came on and put a stop to the fighting. The enemy is quiet, but a movement at any time would not surprise me. I will get no sleep to-night, for I am on guard. REMINIVSCJENCES OF TIlE CUBAIN IWV,AR. 539 "July 11-lThe elnelll(yi is eitllher (ishleartened or is lying lohw for anlothelr assault. Tlhey lhave scarcely rejplied to-day to our artillery lire. It is really too blad we have not brlouglit l lup thle rest of General Rtlanlolh)l',s ligllt artlillery alnd tlhe siege guns. It will cost tmanlly lives to (get the Slpanisl olut of their intrenchllents, and then to comlpel themll to surredller il tl(h city. I have seen from our hill the barricades they have la 1( It Il ]I'ea(S1 of tlhes streets, and the stone holluses of Santiago ca1n .1() A1/I\I l I. 1 IS'i \ l t X C I' ( )/' 7i/'I CI I.Vi I.\^ I t,. tA tlI thle Iu 1 (ht fo1 IIthd th l (1,1 da I nineI-tee(ni i II4 nI from ea I tcm lpIInY ( ) \l i11 l ( 1 ( F I I I * ll (i it ', I I I t I ' 1 ll (I '4;1 i' 1 t I I ' v f I I \vt (o1 oP ie\iimtent wveire closeit to form1 414 detachment 14 i"11t 11'le evllow,',1tever pe'stlhlolst, thlite('ell iiles to the ta'rl', I1('; Sibloiey'. M.lily ()of tlt1( noin-comitiiiissioniied 4)1114i)1s rtitefsel 1)po int 11a111k to go, 1learlog t Ie fevel wor1seI talIl Spailislt bullets. I was tlhell deltailedl a1s atlien se 1,eatl With 19S boys frm)11 the Fi St and four c(4iiissiionedi I o4i(cers we too()k '1(1lir 1( of (lie',estlp 1i4)lls. A\s tilte tI11ii s,1rolle ill x \Iwe l(l tal];ei t.ali ft've\(' ]); telits 411 ()111' Slo(Il(eI'' S;111( (';11'!! t1('111 itl() tl e c' 11111. D)eat';ll were so fo e pitent HIt nt w e 'i walvS dii se' (veii ir,tv s in advaice'('. oT a vwee'lk o() dt11 (l t'acl(lll e I t (t (l ' 1(, 1 'i. ' allt. '1111e sevel' tee wl11e(e ( ak'1(' i'l (ldo ' ill o(e1 (!la(, l if(tee'(1 thl e t ext, t we(ity-li (ive the nei xt alndl s( )11 il thlil Tpr')(i' tiiol i tJ (ii l t mllll l iSSi('sio ld (IliterlS;lll ld men wee 1 e (itell( 1e1ad orl 1'(' (ove(l save live 4' 1 isv. As \'e d' l supe11 ior(t' o() ( S11 t11t, we 'l'the)'led 11i) tle ('ctall thliitg's 1It infected 1and( 11m ved a(ay several miles. ()It tof ia deaaet det akttof (I98 f ort v-1ine d ied, aIttdl i t tle (eaer numIber o(t survivo's will never be lit tlor atltiv inin, i I it his li 'f. I di(ldni't ',et sick att tlie lie;, a I((,oo osd ( sdli 01,'1 il, id folt e,' ii e(1)b. leid 111 to) (esc(a11). I a e111 d to jo(i, n' n egi I, Iu'it ib I I nd I,, wa I II... s AaleII. "iNe0t I (ilter1d l lt oslpital ait S'ibtV, 1441e 1i a litI.de losp(ital ste1 - a(l( oI a((11ccint (f ixl previous klnodwle(d (I a1s ait pharmai1ist. It w\ 4s 1' (ci41( 11I se11(1d a lot o(f 4c Iva4Ileis4cetils to 'N Ne(v \Y tik. \We were pil(ed ill o()(e11 ( ts a;i111] s('eltt t11 (1ind by w;vay () Ag Iadoi(es 1 to( S;antiao((. s(111f tVawful 1)u11nd1(1e'l te i ill \\':s si(dl'-t1l4ked a(111d fo'(r ix hli)111 we lIay i a11 blaziJ'g s111. A ( 111Iia, sl e i o( ( ilxie" ) 1 1mi' t', pi4't111(ed wate'l, ilito) vlwhich h1e s(1'eezi' 'l s(} lielq'1<. ilttlnd s8(ld tlle pli'ecioulls flidl ti, ('l1 ce its a dilpper'. Anotiher ("ub11a1nl lli8d1 litil lo()ves (o, vt(l li'ti w lh (lie offered aIt 5 (cents /)apieee, bui tl- 't perceiving hlvow l gi' 'i- e boys were (lquickly ]aiised' tl e price to 10 celit1. Onle (soldie liioev fodl m,1 far1 tia igute, 1ii,er a.n1 d t11 1o(1(1id ll4t11, 4()1tte(d lis o)nlIv nic el-e] for i(1 la);f. Th1e a varicious (11uba)l 11e(Is1 Viimi. Wit I 1114 st eit rli of I espa4,r 11ie I, IIftI 1 lik te i banI in I tlie s )i (11 eli 11141 a 1'11 i ll ' It le sItt. tie o,ii1er solliers'l po(uce 1 1d')11 tilhe bread and de(114(Oured1 itI liike fal I si ed41 \Io11w ves(. I lnever believed menl could bte, S( lil stered b1y li uger. MI ll1V 4)t illt, ((eonv(alsce(elts becameil de(1liriou(l 81141 111(tir under ll 1 ilat sc1c lhigi sun waNlis awfil. Finially, aft-er wve had (t sIfflrel t lie to r-( e I s (if tle d1I e111111(1, I tl(e I 1istake, I w s d iscove()r d,(1, (1ie elIgiIIe (I Itate back 1 ad we were pu ( 1 4) to iiii ltil If Sa tia.i II 91 ;:w;:n:"" ;:BRI % i';l ~;;;~;i~i: I;ls~~"" 65.8811" (g~pljl'""""; ""';ii;i cl~l~~i Hn Blpi i,,,;i Ili g:~- iiF",, I iii,,,,, 4;i ~ ~ "~r rl~~:""~~ci.:,:.I'~:'~,l:~':i:l;.r~ -i~ S sr~ li;~i~ ~I~iii:I~gCiica -riRjj" 8isiew lill-riii.fll ~a: sll-:'E,,d~ iliW,, r:; R- 'IH;r~,;;e i~I ~rxe~ c~~~".~""~ ~".I~,, I.:c~~j~ '":,i,, a 9' ~~6 g ii~ c ii4 6~ 17~ *:..ii~~ ~1 ~;li~ ~~, L~; 6 i;.181 " i*; I-iiiiilf ii:i"~s' B'';-Bi ~r; ,ll~:i~iiir:1 '" " ~u ~II; ~;~~'~Y~IE.,;.,.~: ui "- "I ,.iH I C1 r ;~ 11 1:'E", sr ~j,. I :~~ ~~ L;~::~~ ~",~;i,;~ ~ie ii i' ? i rr: II ..~lai r~~1 triJ r~ri.;aB;I' ~~;ill '~"' "r~~ri.iila' t r i;B ~I iS~~!~ 4"W t;d 191 i.!:I!~i il.:::::~ r!;:il~i::l~:.:i!l"' IIII;;I; g.~~~ jg( 9 1.,:,~~,: ~~:~ 1 iP:i I:::,~,, a ~IBi. iv t;,,, "s~ ~"" Irr.$~ sir: ~Il~~::lg: I~~~;i~ qtl "f~i 'l;""ci i B I,.,,,i,.,.,,:Ir,,, ~iiB; ~,ic ill: pi;~TCB~.Q ~~81;~11, ~ll~I ~1 ~~.;~~~~11 ~~I;:'~:~,::~~' "1' '~~~~;I:,~:: I"ilw; 1~~i:;;;;"''~''" 6'1,~~~pE~l';l I;E ~~~cr~r~,;~~',~.;d~,,,,';;r,,., aCr ~r~~~~;~a:, ~~. ~ll~;ijB~l ii;" ~n~; 'In~llr D ~,~;s ~ i~l~~.;% ~i~~n~i~ B ~~ I1W" I' rrr 4a:I~;,~;~ g1~18111 ~:;:.~,i~ iglA',,~J ii: ~n Lia I 'l".".~~~ji i '";~~;;;~"; ~-:;i ii~a:;E~: F;1 ""lIBi,; "!;i"':l;iRnrE;~:ii~ I;g i, ilnA;;"""' ",,r as; c:_::I:l;r:,;,,, xl"ll?'rl;l""'-r 1-:";:1-;l;nill1.,rili;ll lill':ll"~lp:':,,,,,!,xl,,,,l,,i.,,i,llii lii i THRE PLtr influlence, wNe will find a form of yegetatiOn -altogether noe af th f)oolboys at rece(ss. (Cuban fliags were flying from every hollse, Ibut iost of theim liadl a Unit(ed States flag above the Cubanl l colors. Major l)usenbry raisedl Ih first American htag i this city. over tle( cuisto(t-l)holse. C Iaptalin BIarker (f tle navy hoisted the flag over( tie lpost(ofice anld Lieuitenant lBrns of CompanyI) F over tlle (city 1ha;ll." Says olle visitor (o 1 1avana after the American occiupa ilion was co m - iplete, regarding tlle cndit:ions o livitng in the c(,ity: "Amlerican ()offlcers -lwho colme to 1 lavana and are 1ot: co(mpelled to live in the field w\ill filndl thell expe'ns(e f living in tlhe city snomething greater tlhan t:llhey want to stalndl. Trle officers now here with the peace comlnilissioll and thlle nlilitarv board have been lookilng into tlle i mtter, and tll sa(y lr that army officerls, after a little experience, will object to )being' assigned( to( Ilavana. Those who are now attached to thfe peace colmmlissioln, of lwhichl General WaVde is chairman, have all their expenses paid. The entire restaurant is at their disposal, they are pIermitted to order everythino from wine to douglhnuts, and the go)vernmncet pays the bill. With Colonel Lee's military board the conditions of living are just what they will be when officers are sent (lown here in the future. Each man pays his own bills. Incidentally, his bills are consuming all his pay. Hotels are expensive in Havana. Ordinary com(forts and conveniences are extravagantly high, and they are getting higher every day. Tle Spaniards t hink that the comin, of tlie Americans in bodies will create an extra demand for all goods and provisions and that it is easy to command higher prices. "Some of the officers now here will probably have to remain a year or more. laving had intimations to this effect, they are looking around for living accommodations. They have found that a house that might be available for an officer with a very small family cannot be rented for less than $1,000 a year. This rental does not include furniture or even the ordinary utensils that go with an American house. Tousehold furniture, moreoxver, is very dear in t$is ciit. it $1,000 for rent, added REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. to the cost of putting the house in order and-the expense of provisioning his establishment, life in Havana is placed almost beyond the reach of an American colonel, and what a captain or lieutenant would do can only be imagined. "One of the officers who is to remain here is making arrangements to build his own home. lie is waiting for the government lumber barges, and with the lunmber which they bring he will erect a 'shack,' in which he will sleep and lhave his servant do his own cooking. This is al) right for a gray-haired bachelor who has to be around storehouses all day, but would hardly suit the wife of an officer down here on special staff duty." My own memories of life in Iavana are exceedingly pleasant. In spite of dirty streets in the older and poorer quarters of the city, there were novelties and attractions enough to counterbalance such discomforts unless one were compelled to stay in tliose disagreeable places. In Iatvana I relmember many congenial associations, among Spanish officers, Cuban plotters and Americans alike. It is true that during the years of insurrection one felt it necessary to be cautious in his actions and speech, owing to the constant suspicion that even the American or the Cuban at one's elbow might be a Spanish spy, but in spite of all, there were gaiety and life to be seen. Under the American regime all this is improved. From the first night I slept on the rough dining table of the officers' mess in the marines' camp at Guantanamo bay, I felt the strong rTHE AMERICAN impression that a new era was dawning for the unINFLUENCE INFIUENCE lhappy island, with the first landing of American forces on Cuban soil. Baiquiri, Siboney, Santiago all verified the impression, and to-day the people of Cuba are resting happy in the bright outlook before them. CHAPTER XXXIX. CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. Places Where the Attractions for Travelers are Greatest-Centers of Commerce and Industry-How to Reach Havana-Fortifications of Havana-Morro CastlePoor Sanitation Responsible for Yellow Fever-Picturesque Streets and ShopsHotels, Theaters and Residences-Matanzas an Important City-Guantanamo Bay a Pirate Rendezvous-Santiago de Cuba and Its Morro Castle-When the American Fleet was There-Other Cities of Cuba. W A ITHIIN the last year, Americans have become familiar with the names of many important towns of Cuba which were unknown before. Warfare sometimes teaches geography as well as patriotism, and the knowledge which our country has obtained of the islands of the East and West Indies during our war with Spain has been an evidence of that fact. Havana, the metropolis of Cuba, has been well known because of its commercial relations with the United States and naturally should have first attention in the description of the cities. It is not, however, the only one of importance and the others are in some instances hardly second in interest. In spite of the little encouragement which American tourists have had for visiting the city of Havana, for many years it has been a popular place of resort for the few who have tried it or have been recommended to it by their friends. With the attractions it has had during Spanish administration, when an air of constraint and suspicion marked the intercourse with every American, it will not be surprising if under changed auspices and in an atmosphere of genuine freedom, Americans will find it one of the most delightful and easily accessible places possible for them to visit. It is not all pleasant, but the unpleasant things are sometimes quite as ATTRCIOST ATTRACTIONS interesting as the pleasant ones. If the traveler forms OF HAVANA. his judgments according to the actual comforts he may obtain, he will be pleased from beginning to end of his stay. If the 551 .,52 CITIE'S AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. ilmeasure of llis good opinion is whetlhe r or n(t things are like those to wllich he is accustollled, lie will be disaplpointled, because novelty reignls, BIt no(ve-lty dloes Ilot necessarily 111can discomfort. Hlavana may be reached by a sea voyage of three or four days from New York, on any one of severaSl excellent steamers under the American flag, and even in winter the latter portion of the voyage will be a pleasant feature of the journey. Or the path of the American invadingsqluad(ron may be followed, and the traveler, after passing through Florida by rail, mlay journey front Tamni)a by the mail steamers, and touching at Key \West for a few hours, reach lavana after a voyage of tw() nlights and a day. The Florida straits, between Cuba. and the Florida keys, which were the scene of the first hlostilities of the war, are but ninety miles wid(l, and tlie voyage is ma11lde froml Key West in a few lhours. Tle current of the gulf stream mlakes tlhe channel a trifle reliniscent of tlle English (1cannel, but once under te lee le of tlie Cuban coast the water is still and the harbor of the old city offers slielter. In the, days before the war, Morro castle liad an added interest to the traveler from the fact that behind its frowninrg guns and under the rocks on which it is built were the cells of scores of sad prisoners, some of them for years in the dungeons, whose walls could tell secrets like those of the inquisition in Spain if they could but speak. Between Morro castle and its neighbor across the way, La Punta, the vessels steam into that bay, foul with four hundred years of Spanish misrule and filth, where three hundred years of the slave trade centered, and into which the sewers of a great city poured their filth. Once inside the harbor, Cabafia castle frowns from the hills behind Morro, and on the opposite shore rise the buildings, of tlle city itself. The harbor always ihas been a busy one, for the commerce of the island and of the city has been large. In times of peace, scores of vessels lie at anchor in the murky waters. The American anchorage for mail steamers for years has been in the extremest part of the bay from the city of Havana itself, in order to avoid the contagion which was threatened by a nearer anchorage. Until the Maine was guided to her ill-fated station by the harbor master, it had been long since any American vessel had stopped in that part of the harbor. CITlI S /AND [PORTS OP, THlL ISLAND OP' CUBA. 55 'lihe shaiilowv harlbor of Ilavatian has its5 entrance-~, from the oceani thrug a. chaiie hry inore thaum three hundred] yards, wide, a11( nearly ha,,lf a mile longr, after which it broadens an(l raiiii~fies until its tare~a be-oniis severail squlare miles. D)ANGRUS No fresh w-vater strea Rin, large or sia-i'1, flowNIS into it to OF THlE HARBOR. 1)ur11fy~ thle. wcalers. The ha1-rbor enftiance, is so narrowN,.111(1 the tidie's along. that coast. I hve so little rise a nd fall, that the, level of wter n th haror hrdlyshows p~ercepitible chanige (la y after day. The result of this is that. thel constant, inflow of sewa~ge fromi the great. city pouL'ingIJ into the harbor'r is nevecr dilntedl, and through the sijititer, is siIUJly a. festering nssof corrupltion, fronting the whole. s-ea, wvill afld throwiniig a stenc-h into the a ir which must be breathed byeve~ryolie )II ship~boar(l. There, is (die part. of the harbor known as "dead m 1an's7 Ihol," fromn which it- is, said no shipl a ee stailedl after anl m,1imch1or-age( of miore tihan one, day, withlout bearing- the infection of yellow fever amrong its crew. Along- the shores of I his verry harbor are. great warehouses for the sug~ar an(l tolbacco shipped into ihe Unlitedl States by the thousands of ionis eveiry year. To lpreserve, ouar national health, our grovernmnent has nina~iltainedl an exp)ensive ma~rine hospital service and quarantine syste~ni aogour souithern Ilorts which trade with. la-vana, in addition to,11 [(portingr a atin hospitald service under t le eminent Dr. Burcr'ess in IHavlana itself. To1 the rig-id enforcement of this system, andh the untiringr vigilance of lDr. Burgress, must. be credited the immunity w~hich. the United States, hias, had from -annual epidlenics of yellow fever and smallJIOX. The Measure of Spanish Misrule. The gu~ilt of Spain in permitting this shocking condition to continmue, cannot in any way be pia~liated. For four hundred years she has had swa~y in the island, free to work her own will, and drawing millions o)f dollars of surplus revenue out of the g(-,rindingr taxes she has imposed. The installation of a sanitary system of sewage, which should discharge into the open sea instead of into this cesspool which lies at the city's feet, would have been the first solution of the difficulty. The threat of 554 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. danger would have been finally averted by the expelnditure of a few hundred thousand ldollars, which would open a channel from the further extremity of the harbor to the ocean eastward. The HOW TO CIEAN distance is but a few miles and the engineering probHAVANA ' HARBORl. le1 a simple one. This and the construction of a jetty nortlhwestward from the point on which Morro castle stands, would divert a portion of the current of the noble gulf stream into the harbor entrance, and the foul pond of to-day would be scoured of its filth by a, perennial flood which could never fail. Vera (Iruz, on the Mexican coast, has proven that it is possible to exterminate yellow fever, and it is a duty owed to civilization that Havana shall follow along the same path. If all other excuses were to be ignored, the United States for years has had aniple cause for intervention in Cuban affairs, as a measure of safety to the health of her own citizens, as truly as one man may complain to the authorities if his neiglhbor maintains a nuisance in the adjoining yard. Once anchol(ored in the safest place in the harbor, the mail steamers are surrounded without delay by a fleet of peculiar boats of a sort seen only in the bay of Ihavana. For a bit of silver, the traveler is taken ashore, the journey to the landing stage being a matter of but a few moments. The journey through the custom house is not a formidable one, for unless there is suspicion of some contraband goods, the customs officers are not exacting upon travelers. At the (loor of the customl house, or adulana, wait the cabs, whilch are cheaper in lavana. than in any other city of the new world, and they serve as a conveyance to the hotels, which are all grouped in the same neighborhood. The streets through which the traveler passes are picturesque, but hardly practical, from the American point of view. Sonme of them are so narrow that carriages cannot pass, and all traffic must go in one direction. Nearly all of the business streets have awnings extending from one side to the other, between the roofs, as a protection from the tropic sun. The sidewalks on some of the most pretentious streets are not wide enough for three persons to walk abreast, and on others two cannot pass. On every hand one gets the impression of antiquity, and antiquity even greater than the four hundred years of Spanish occupancy actually measures. Spanish architecture, however modern it CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 5> may be, somietimes adlds to tlhat ilmpression and )one iligllt believe himself, with little stretch of the imaginaltion, to be in one of the ancient cities of the old world. The streets are paved with blocks of granite and other stone, roughly cut and consequently exceedingly noisy, but upon these nIarrow streets front some shops as fine as one might expect to discover in New York or Paris. It is true that they are not large, but they do not need to be, for nearly all are devoted to specialties, insteadf of carrying stocks of goods of the American diversity. The one who wants to shop will not lack for temptations. The selection is amIple in any line that may bo namned, thle styles are modern and in exquisite taste, and altogether the shops are a considerable surprise C( ATREETS to one who judges them first from the exterior. Stores AN) SIIOPS. devoted exclusively to fans, p)arasols, gloves, laces, jewels, bronzes, silks and the beautiful cloth of pineapple fiber known as nipe cloth, are an indication of thle variety that may be found The shoes and other articles of men's and woilen's clothing are nearly all direct iInll)ortal ions fro(m Paris, and where Parisian styles dominate one may be assured that the selection is not a scalty one. Clerks are courteous even to the traditiolnal poinlt of Castilian obsequiousness, and alltopgether a shlop,)ing expesdition along this Obispo street is an experience to be reneereered with pleasure. You notice that everything is made to serve comfort and coolness. Instead of having panes of glass, the windows are open and guarded by light iron railings, and the heavy wooden doors are left ajar. You see into many houses as you pass along, and very cool and clean they look. There are marble floors, cane-seated chairs and lounges, thin lace curtains, and glimpses of courts in the center of each building, often with green plants or gaudy flowers growing in them between the parlor and the kitchen. You find much the same plan at your hotel. You may walk in at the doors or the dilinng room windows just as you please, for the sides of the house seem capable of being all thrown open; while in the center of the building you see the blue sky overhead. Equally cool do all the inhabitants appear to be, and the wise man who consults his own comfort will do well to follow the general example. Even the soldiers wear .5;(i CIT'IES AND L'0RTl'S 01;OF 71E ISL.AND 01 CUBlA. stravw hats. Tle gentleen ae la(l in iuderwear of silk or lisle thread and suits of linen, drill or silk, and the ladies are equally coolly appareled. Havana is a dressy place, landl ll iyou ll be astollisheld at the neatness and style to which the tissue-like goods worn there are mnade to conform. Details of Home Life. But come and see the apartment you are to rest in every niglit. Ten to one the ceiling is higher than you ever saw one in a private house, and the huge windows open upon a balcony overlooking a verdant plaza. The floor is of marble or tiling, and the bed is an or(l'ate iron or brass affair, with a tighlttly stretchled shleet of canvas 11OW THE HOUSES ATE. or fine wie nellting in place( of the alttress you are FURNISlIED. used to. You could not sleep on a mal ttress with any proper degree of comlfort in the tropics. There is '* canopy with curtains overhead, and everything abouIt the room is pretty certain to be scrupulously clean. Conspicuous tlhere antd everywhere else that you go is a rocking chair. TRockingc chairs are to be found in the houses, and in regiments in the clubs. Iavana is the metropolis of the West Indies. It hlas more life and bustle than all the rest of the archipelago )pt together. If you are (erman, English, Scotchl, Dutch, Alllerician, FreInch or wlhatever you are, you will find fellow countrynien among its 250,000 souls. There is a public spirit there which is rare in these c(limes. Tlhe t-.heaters astoiiish you by their size and elegance. The aristocratic club is tle Uniion, but the popular one is the Casino Espanol, whose club house is a marvel of tropical elegance and beauty. Nearly all these attractionls are on or near the broad, shady and imposing tlorollughfare, the Prado-a su:cession of parks leading from the water opposite Morro castle almost across the city. Band Music in the Plazas. In one or anotllhe of t:hese p)arl.s a militafi'y bald i:lays on tlhree evenings of the week, and the scene on such occasions is wholly new to CITIES AN1D PORT'S OF TIlJ 1S1.,INDI OF CL'UIA. 557 English eyes. It is at such times that one may see the beautiful Spallish and Cuban women. They do not leave their houses in the heat of the day unless something requires them to do so, and ATTRIACI^TION^S OFY wlen they do they remain in their carriates, and are ATT lACTINS O accomnpanied by a servant or an elderly companion. IN CUBA. So strict is the privacy with which they are surrounded that you shall see them shopping without quitting their carriages, waited on by the clerks, who bring the goods out to the vehicles. But when there is music under the laurels or palms the senorias, in their light dralI)elies, and wearing nothing on their heads save the picturesque mantilla of Old Spain, assemble on the paths, the seats, the sidewalks and in their carriages, and there the masculine element repairs and is very gallant, indeed. Here you will listen to the dreamy melody of these latitudes, S);pnish love songs and Cuban waltzes so softly pretty that you wonder all the world does not sing and play them. On otther nights the walk or drive along the Prado is very interesting. You pass some of the miost elegant of the houses, and notice that they are two stories higih, and that the family apartments are on the upper stories, so that you miss the furtive views of the families at meals and of the ladies recliling in the broad-tiled window sills that you have in the older one-story sections of the city. The city of Havana may be said to stand in the same relation to Cuba that Paris does to France, for in it are centered the culture, the refinement, and the wealth of the island, but there are several other towns of considerable importance, and many of them have beclome places of interest since the struggle for liberty has attracted the attention of the civilized world. Chief among these is Matanzas. This city, with a normal population of about 60,000, is situated fifty miles east of Havana, with which it is connected by rail and wvater. Its shipping interests are second only) to those of the capital, as it is the outlet of many of the richest agricultural districts of the island. The city is situated on the flats on both sides of the San Juan river, which brings down large quantities of mud and greatly impledes inland navigation. As an offset the bay is spacious, easy of access and shel 5058 CITIES AND PORTS OF TlHE ISLAND OF CUBrA. tered fromil tle violentIl ilf stlorms which prevail at son)m seasons. This makes thle )lort a favorite with mariine mlen. A large amount of money lhas been spenlt by tlhe go(rvernmelllt to fortify and protect't 1lle city, and( it lhas b(een cionnected by rail witl all tlhe princil)al town1s antd Ipo()(ll(ilc centers of thle p)rovinces. TIlls it is a part icullarly favorite lolrt of ent'ry for all tlle slppl)lies I reullireill in tile pllantations-fool d s stles and lmlchinery. Its expl)olts consist principially of sugar, coffee, molasses, t)obactcon, hncy, wax and f'ruits. The city is built prilncipally of masonry and in a most slbstantaltjl manner, though little (fflot has been iniade to secure archlitectural beauty. Tl1e pride of the cit y is the new theater, whiich is pointe oult as the hanldsomest buildlilig in Cuba. The Emlpresa Acatdey also takes rank equal with any for the excellence of its educational facilities. There is no more charlilng spot in Cuba tian Matanzas. The bay is like a, crescent in slhiap(, a11d receives the w\at(ers of 1the YLumuri and Matanzas rivers, two sn.iall innavig'alble strelams. A hiih ridge se'arates them. On thlis ri(lge b1ack of tHle town staflls a catlhedlral de(dicated to the black virgin. It is a repl)ro(dction of a calledral in tllhe alearii islands. The view from its steetple is magnificent. Loolking b1ackwair( the valley of tlhe YXumuri stretches to tlie( righlt. It is AN\ITANZA.S about ten miles wide and sixty miles long, (ldo teld with AND) ITS - SURROUNDINGS. p)alms, and as level as a barn floor. The Yumuri breaks through the mountains 1nelar Maftanlzas bay something like the Arkansas river at Canon City. Carl'petd iwith living green and surrounded with mountains this valley is. one of thle gelms of Cuba. About ten miles from, Maltanzas, on tlhe left of tlie road; l, stand what are known as the Breadloaf Moluntains. The(y rise fromn the plain like the Spanish peaks in (olorado. These mountains are the lheadquarters of General Betancourt, who commands the insurgments in the province. The Spaniards have offered $1,000 reward for his head. Several efforts have been made to secure it, but in all cases the would-be captor has lost his own head. In accordance with the Weyler edict 11,000 reconcentrados were herded together at Matanzas, and within a year over 9,000 of them died in the city. In the Plaza, under the shadow of the Governor's residence, i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1 SUBURBAN RESIDENCE STREET, MATANZAS, CUBA Architecture in the Spanish-American islands is very strange to tee eyes of travelers from the snorth. Somnetimes there is a reminiscence of the classic cotumns and porticos ef ancient Greece and Rome. Masonry is employed everywhere, the decorations usually being of plaster PLAZA DE ARMAS, FROM THE PALACE, HAVANA it is eaxssto dik~riic form thle acompauying picture, that thel Spanish ooctttpatitni has not eft Hlavasea svid tf p lhhe ihpraovemnts sta lttractivel leasuve-grounds in thle place", *hlere their own cowti~ts dtlld bie served therebyt. This A tTs is a faS eat i p.Nt ift UAVNtfiiia. (CIT17 's I.INI)P I'T()i S11U O 'Il/ 11f 1' I..I/l) 0 1O' C(' h'i..:,il t ewl'lty-tll ee dole' d)(lied f irol stl arvt l i(l ill,I (ia. 'I'll. e ipr,,ovil(c (ft Mat anitias is inot lzaie inll arai 11han111 tili state of 1 Delaiwar, vet 5,000 peop )Ie ia1ve periislhed fromil stiarvation amd i(ncident dise (1ses silltce thlIe lorder went. ilt 1 (1'fec,t. mlatanzlas liald hle 1((honor of beinl, the scene (f to he firsts act al IbomIIa ( I rdIeIt o f any fort f I a if it i, iC I ( IIba I (I I in our war wit i S pain. ()On April '2 thll'e th1ashlip ( f Ai\dlliil'l Samlll)S()Ii's tl'eet, t I' New YNoL, the il1110mit ort I1;1ri ta aiid tIhe crui ser (Cin ciniinati opeed( t el fiwi p) thlon for(ts. iThe Spaniards ha-Id b)eenl actively tat w(ork o)n tJe foil i licatiois iat. P111 nta ()ord(a and it was ilhe kSnwl(edg(e ()f this flact t hat ld Adm lira1l Sa1ptsl)son to s11(i1 1h I( 1ace((, tlie plrplose bill)(, to) preven(1t t(heir coln1)1(1 tio. Il less thai. twenty minutes Aldmiral Sampson's warships had silenced the SSpanish batleries. A ppr aching ( CIba0 as C(olumblis (1 did —across thie I1narrow o st (retch of 'Sa, frml San 1o iito-on tirst sit te Io, low promontory )f the eastcern tip, wlhic(hl Il t ldiscoverelr lnaiclled Point MayT vsi. So( difterent is thle prosl)(eclt flro' tlhat s1een t t1ie 11 (ther Lend of lthe islandl, as Vy,11 ('co 1down ill tlhe usual rolite rom i New York o Florida, that vol can hardly1 )believe it- is tIhe sa111e smtall counlrvi. Froml Mavsi 1PoiiIt clie lan11 rises il sliarp l ter'a'(.ces, bac'kel by high lhills and l ighlr Ioitains, all s, vague ii mist aMi, (10111 t had t t oh i (10d not know wNhere 4land nd111 11(1d skyv be gils. ( 1C1,11mng iteer, 'ray rildges are evllved, wih ltok like cowlted AND ant11d st]ile sho)i'oes, 811 S1]'r(e-be)ll' cali ffs 'overes d with secreand til' set bi]ird. At.: rtnre i-tervals 811 l)pentin(~ in th(e ] rock-bolfnd coast betrays a iniy Iarbclo, b)rtlev(rid cocanut pla1is, so f guareell ane io ncealed by, h1ils, a(n1 its asotdle'n revelationt, hen lose ui pon it, astonishes you as4 it t Accortling ltoe, t aliion, everyUone of these wasl once l,