THE
NEW SYSTEM
or
OF
EDUCATING HORSES
INCLUDING
INSTRUCTIONS ON FEEDING, WATERING, ETC.
ALSO
HOW SHOEING SHOULD BE DONE;
WITH
SIMPLE PRACTICAL TREATMENT FOR DISEASES.
ILLUSTRATED.
INCLUDING A
LARGE NUMBER OF VALUABLE RECIPES
NOT BEFORE PUBLISHED.
BY D. MAGNER.?V   This work is written by the Author, for the use of his Subscribers.
Ninth Edition, Revised and Enlarged.
BUFFALO:
WARREN, JOHNSON & CO., PRINTERS.
1870.




Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1870,
BY D. MAGNER,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
TO PURCHASERS.
This Book and my System being copyrighted, purchasers have every right of
using, but no right of teaching or transferring to others the Book or its contents. Those doing so will render themselves liable to prosecution.




PREFACE.
THE present (ninth) edition of my book will be
found by far the most practical and valuable of any I
have yet published on the education, reformation, care,
breeding and diseases of the Horse. Since my former
edition was issued, I have had a large experience in
the treatment of diseases-have spent considerable
time and money in studying with the best veterinary
practitioners in this country to obtain the latest and
best methods of treating all the common forms of diseases of horses which are here given. The Medical
Department of this work will be found particularly
valuable, as in it are given remedies and simple treatment for diseases, many of wvhich have never been
given to the public, and will be found invaluable.
The success and satisfaction with which my previous
editions have been received by my former patrons and
pupils, gives me assurance that the many new and
valuable features contained in this work will be duly
appreciated.
D. MAGNER., Inquiries for this book, or concerning other business,
should be addressed to D. Magner, Jamestown, Chautauqua
County, N. Y. Price of book, $5.00.








EDUCATION OF HORSES.
THE IORSE, by nature, is averse to the control of man,
and, of course, knows nothing of the various ways by which
he is made to serve the wants of man, except as he is taught.
THE THEORY of subjection and management which has
been explained and illustrated to you in my class, however
valuable and effective it may seem, can prove so to you only
to the degree that you are patient, careful and prudent in its
application, and with the hope of being able to aid you still
further in correcting some of the grave faults in common
practice, 1 wish to call your attention to a few of the common
causes of trouble and failure arising from ignorance of the
peculiarities of disposition in horses, as well as imprudence
in their management, which should be very carefully guarded
against. It must be admitted that our present THEORY, both
for general and special resistance, is by far the most scientific
and practical that has yet been discovered or brought to
notice, and that we can now produce results in the subjection
of horses, which were regarded as impossible a few years ago.
We have shown how easy it is to control the most powerful
horse, and how readily the most vicious animal will yield
perfect obedience to every command when properly treated.




6                INTELLECTUAL NATURE.
But these and all other principles are only 9rules, by the use
of which certain results are to be secured, and their chief
value in practice must depend upon the judgment used in
applying them.
The horse has an intellectual, as well as a physical nature,
and both are governed by fixed laws. He is an animal of
great strength and acute sensibilities, and since it is through
the sensibilities that the mind is excited to action in calling
the strength into play, it is highly important that the nervous
system  should not be exposed to influences which would
excite its undue action, and tend to increase resistance when
once aroused.
7V,'induser
ToMMIY-one of Prof. Magner's noted trained horses-the best trick pony in
the world.
The mind, or BRAIN, controls the actions of the animal, and
it is to this that our efforts must be directed, as the key
through which success is to be achieved in training and educating the horse. It is through the brain that the horse
understands and obeys, and it is by subjecting the brain, or
nervous system to bad impressions that resistance or fear is
excited.  If fear is excited and the will aroused in securing




PRINCIPLES OF MENTAL CONTROL.              7
obedience, the resistance of the animal is stimulated, the legitimate authority and control of the driver weakened or neutralized, and the necessity for force greatly increased. If,
however, physical resistance is overcome without arousing
the passions or creating fear, no resistance being excited,
obedience is easily secured. It should therefore be the first
andr constant care with every one, as it is one of the great conditions of success, to guard against causes of excitement,
which always increase the difficulties, not only by so confusing the mind that it cannot act clearly, but by increasing
the amount of resistance which it is so important to prevent.
The physical powers of man are so inferior to those of the
horse that controlling him by mere force is out of the question, nor is it necessary. The superiority of mind over matter has been fully demonstrated. We find, by studying the
horse's weak points, and taking him at a disadvantage, the
impression can be made upon his mind that-man's strength is
superior to his, and when once he is thoroughly convinced
that resistance on his part is entirely-useless, this impression
answers the same end for all practical purposes, as if man
were really the stronger party.  We have already shown
you how this impression may easily be made, and in the
reformation of horses with confirmed bad habits, this is the
first point to be gained; but-great care and good judgment
is necessary, or there is danger of exciting renewed and desperate resistance, sometimes producing a reckless disregard of
all restraint, bordering on insanity, or a stupid indifference,
which is quite as difficult to overcome.
As soon as the horse yields to the treatment and submits
quietly to what is required, we must hasten to secure the
cooperation of his affections by kindness, and by giving him
something which he likes. This course must'be continued,
rewarding for obedience and punishing in the way which you
have been shown, for disobedience, until the character becomes
fixed.. This is important, and must never be forgotten.
Many of the characteristics of man have their counterpart
in the horse, and we also find a similar diversity of organization. As in man, so also in the horse. The more the lower,
coarser, or animal characteristics predominate, or the more
the bad nature is excited, the more unreliable and obstinate
the character, and the more difficulty will be had in securing
obedience.




8           DANGER OF HARSH TREATMENT.
Th6 grand point to be attained is to overcome the animal's
natural opposition to restraint, and render his will entirely subservient to that of his master, and the great lesson which must
be thoroughly impressed upon the mind of the horse is that
" disobedience will be punished with pain, but obedience will
be rewarded with kindness. The general theory and principles by which this is to be done have been sufficiently illustrated to you, and it is my" purpose to give in this book only
such suggestions and instructions as will enable you to apply
my system successfully to the various cases and different
subjects necessary in the training and subjection of horses.
From the very commencement, I would caution you against
pounding, kicking, yelling and jerking your horse under any
circumstances, as such treatment can only irritate and confuse
the animal. You must be very patient and thorough in first
getting the horse to understand what you wish him to do,
taking great care not to excite his fear or resistance, as that
will surely involve you in a contest for the mastery, which
should be avoided if possible; for, though you may gain the
victory, saying nothing of other dangers, the probabilities are
ten to one that the disposition of your horse will suffer in the
struggle. Remember, if you would have kind and reliable
horses you must cultivate the better part of their natures,
inducing obedience by kindness, without arousing the bad
nature, and continue this treatment carefully and patiently,
until prompt obedience to your every command becomes a
habit firmly fixed.
Importance of Uniformity in Language.
Horses cannot understand the meaning of language except
so far as associated with actions. To teach a colt to stop at
the word "whoa," we must first pull upon the halter or bridle
at the same time that we give the command, and continue to
associate this action with the word until he will obey the
word without the action. In the same manner we must
teach the meaning of "go on," or any other signal to advance,
by first using a motion of the hand or a touch of the whip in
connection with the command. So the meaning of the word
" back," and all other words used to express commands, must
be carefully and thoroughly taught, one thing at a time, until
clearly understood. Since the horse cannot obey two commands at once, and has not the power of reason, it seems as




ALWAYS BE UNIFORM IN LANGUAGE.             9
if the necessity of being uniform in language when addressing
the horse,'would be felt and appreciated by every one. That
is, always use the same words in giving the same command.
Do not say wzhoa, when you wish your horse to go on; or go
on, or get up, when you mean stop; but always say just what
you mean, and then require your horse to do it promptly.
Have a certain word or signal for every different command,
and always use that and no other. Carelessness or irregularity in giving your commands will make your horse careless
in obeying you. Now it is a common fault with most men,
in training and using their horses, to talk and act so carelessly in managing them, that it is absolutely impossible for
the best trained horses to understand or obey their commands.
Of course it is not intentional, and is the result of thoughtlessness rather than lack of judgment.  To illustrate, the
word " whloa" is the generally accepted signal for a horse to
stop when he is going ahead, and it is evident that if used
when the horse is not moving, or for a different purpose, the
word loses the force of its meaning, or has no significance
whatever.  But how many men cry whoa, ohoa, when they
merely wish their horse to go slower, stop shying, change
from a trot to a walk, stop pulling at the halter, hold up the
head, cease gnawing a post or the fence, stop shaking the
head or switching the tail to relieve himself from the annoyance of troublesome flies, and a dozen other things which a
horse does so frequently.  The same word, more or less
sharply uttered, greets the horse on nearly all occasions.
No wonder that the best disposed horse should fail to obey
a command which is used for so many different purposes, and
should finally become regardless of words which thus become
as meaningless to him as Chinese or Choctaw.
Another foolish habit of many drivers which should be
avoided, is that of commonly speaking to their horses in a
loud or harsh tone of voice. For all ordinary purposes the
voice should be rather low and mild, but clear and distinct,
and the horse should be taught that when a command is given
more sharply and with greater force, he is to obey with so
much the more energy and promptness, and unless every
word and action used in giving commands, and the degree of
force with which they are given, all have a definite and fixed
meaning, the horse cannot understand and obey with certainty
and readiness.
1*




10        GIVE LESSONS SHORT BUT THOROUGH.
In training horses, too much must not be attempted at a
time. The lessons should be short but thorough, always encouraging obedience by kindness and little presents of apples,
or something that the animal likes.  Special care must be
taken to thus caress and reward a sensitive, high spirited and
courageous horse, particularly after he has resisted control,
and been forced to yield.
Extremes of Intelligence and Disposition.
In studying animal nature, we find a general law that the
larger and-more active the brain, the more intelligence and
docility is exhibited; and the smaller and more sluggish the
brain, the less intelligence is
possessed, and the more determined  and  active the
resistance -to control. Consequently we have great
extremes and all intermeunfequently fd m d  diate modifications of disposame faily. Forsition and characer, e ao  diit.obe        ing to the quality and
almot  e y hramount of brain and the
- j~?'"~/iJ ~     different predominating faculties. Each type of charct act er  is in harmony wvith
this law, in the wild and
more savage of the lower
Intelligent and Gentle. animals as well as those of
the domestic classes. We not
unfiequently find marked extremes of disposition, even in the
same family. For instance, one dog is a model of docility and
obedience, while another is surly, cross and savage. In
almost every herd of farm animals will be found one more
wild or vicious than the others. One cow, one ox or mule is
more timid, or ugly, or difficult and dangerous to manage than
therest; and by a similar law we find these various dispositions accompanied by greater or less degrees of vitality,-it
being usually the case that those naturally wild and vicious
animals are much more hardy and enduring than others.
The HORSE affords perhaps the best illustration of the
diversity of these characteristics. We find that in proportion




EXTREMES OF INTELLIGENCE AND DISPOSITION.      11
as there is predominance of the lower
and more savage
characteristics o f
animal nature,
there is stubborniess of character
and power of en-\
durance; and to
the degree that
animal intelligence
and fine sensibility
are in excess of tlhe
co arse and stubborn traits, there
wvill be tractableanesso ob and dfocility-  Dull and Treacherous.
to msanage.
though perhaps the hardiness and vitality may be soanew, at
less, yet this is not'necessarily the case.
Thee lama, having but little of this coarse nature, will not
bear abuse, but will
lie down discouraged and die, if
overloaded and not
relieved. The camel, of a less sensitive type, will toil
patiently and nohly
under the heaviest
7,:~'~          ~ burdens, m e e k ly
-/f\\Yy(       submitting to al-'  \/.,l  ~   most any extreme
"~~'T~i~!  ~of abuse. The ass,
mule anid mustang,
having a larger
share of the coniSensitive and Flighty,      tive disposition,
are more obstinate and willful, and are usually more difficult
to manage.
Where there is great predisposition to resistance, more
vitality and endurance may be anticipated, but proportion.
ably more skill and judgment will be necessary to secure
obedience and docility. This is also true with regard to other




12         TREAT ACCORDING TO DISPOSITION.
animals.  Those of a nervous temperament, with but little of
the coarse nature, do not need the whip, and will most readily yield obedience to kind and gentle treatment, while those
of high courage and strong will, resist control with greater
violence and more obstinate energy. The slow, cold-blooded,
dull horse, may work kind and gentle from the first time he is
harnessed, while the quick, warm-blooded, sensitive horse, is
usually nervous and excitable, and must be "worked in"
gradually, and managed with more skill and patience to insure perfect submission to the restraint of harness and wagon.
This class of horses, more frequently found among thoroughbreds, when fully aroused or greatly excited by fear, are terribly reckless and desperate in their resistance, and require
not only very careful, but very thorough treatment, and must
be made to yield prompt obedience to the control of the bit
and every word of command.
aindications of Character.
Fiery-Needs watching.
Character, in its general features, is indicated by certain
peculiarities.  The size, color, coat, shape and size of head,
eye and ear, expression of countenance and density of texture,
are each an index of greater or less significance. Size alone is
pot a certain indication of strength, but must be taken in connection with quality of limb, form of build, and texture of muscle.




INDICATIONS OF CHIIAACTER.             13
Compact form, strong limb and heavy muscle indicate great
strength, and combined with a fine dense texture, denotes activity and great endurance. A large, prominent, bold, eager,
but mild and pleasant eye, full, broad forehead, distance short
from eye to ear, ears short, tapering and active, indicate great
docility and intelligence, while small, round eyes, set well
into the head, or eyelids heavy, forehead narrow, long from
eye to ear, ears long and flabby, or drooping, indicate a mean,
treacherous disposition.  Between these extremes there are
almost unlimited modifications, developing new  phases of
character, which call for more or less different treatment in
the efforts at training or subjection.  To the practiced eye,
the exact type of temperament or disposition becomes at
once perceptible from these and other peculiarities in the expression of countenance, density of texture, shape of head,
size, color and expression of eye, and general appearance.
Rules and Care ill Breeding.
There are many remote causes which greatly affect tle
character of the horse that deserve the serious consideration
of the intelligent horseman, ancd without a knowledge of
which there cannot be a correct understanding of the subject,
and every effort at breeding must be more or less uncertain,
and perhaps unsatisfactory in its results.  However apparently trifling first causes may appear in themselves, it is certain that they often lead to consequences which the most
careful and thorough subsequent treatment will partially or
wlolly fail to overcome. It is an inviolate law of nature that
" like produces like," and it is therefore evident that to raise
good horses good horses must be bred from. This is not only
true in regard to size, form, soundness and quality of texture,
but in disposition. As much care should be taken in selecting horses for good disposition as for size, speed, form and
strong constitution.  In studying causes which positively
affect the character and disposition, if we would get at the
source we must go back to the time the parents were brought
together, and ascertain the condition of their nervous systems,
for it is undoubtedly true that the condition of the sire or dai
at the time of connection, and the condition in which the
]mare is kept, a-nd ]her treatment during gestation, lhave a powerful influence upon the character of the colt. If a stallion of




14                CARE IN BREEDING.
the most gentle character is greatly irritated and angry
when used to the mare, so marked is the effect of the excitement, that the colt is almost sure to prove of a bad, irritable,
temper. If the mare is subjected to a sudden and extreme
shock of fear while in foal, the colt is very liable to prove
nervous, irritable and unreliable in character.
Bad Effects of Fright.
In other ways, marked extremes of viciousness, approaching
sometimes almost to insanity, may be produced by more direct
and perceptible causes. To illustrate this, I will refer to one
out of many instances which have come under my own observation. A three years old colt, which was noted for gentleness, it having been raised a pet, was allowed to run at large
and trespassed upon a neighbor's premises. Dogs, chasing and
shouting, had lost all influence in keeping the colt away, so,
in a spirit of vexation, the boys tied a tin pan to the colt's
tail and then set the dogs after it. At first the colt did not
seem to notice the pan, but when pressed by the dogs, and
the pan began to rattle and pound against his heels, alarm
was excited. The most frantic efforts to get away from the
terrible object were resorted to, by kicking and running, until
the colt was exhausted, and so powerful was the effect upon
the nervous system, that ever after the stirring of anything
near or touching the hind parts, would excite the greatest
fear and most reckless kicking. The fear thus produced
became involuntary; the nervous system was deranged, and
the colt spoiled. No matter what may be the cause of the
excitement, if greatly frightened, the effect upon the nervous
system is always the same, and the greatest care should be
taken to guard against causes of fright or unusual excitement,
especially in colts. The most careless observer cannot fail to
have noticed that when horses which are afraid of a robe, an
umbrella, a top wagon, the cars, or anything else, are at some
time suddenly frightened by the object, break loose and get
away, the impression of fear becomes so strong, that that
object is ever after a source of the greatest terror to them.
Once breaking loose, running away and kicking, or in any
way successfully resisting control, under such circumstances,
leads to the habit becoming fixed. It is the brain by which
the animal understands and is influenced, and it is the effect
produced directly or indirectly upon the brain, by rousing the




COUNTERACTING EFFECTS OF FRIGHT.          15
fears an.d passions, which excites resistance. The efforts
should therefore be so applied as to weaken or neutralize that
effect by diverting the attention and winning the action of
the mind in an opposite direction. This end you have seen,
can most easily be attained by my treatment, and with prudence and careful management the worst horses can usually
be reformed by my system in a short time.
Whipping Dangerous.
I would caution those who train or use horses upon another
point, viz.: that of exciting-the ill will of the animal. Many
think they are doing finely, and are proud of their success in
horse training by means of severe whipping, or otherwise
rousing and stimulating the passions, and then, from necessity,
crushing the will, through which the resistance is prompted.
No mistake can be greater than this, and there is nothing that'
so fully exhibits the ability, judgment and skill of the real
horseman, as the care and tact displayed in winning, instead
of repelling the action of the mind. Although it may be
necessary to use the whip sometimes, it should always be
applied judiciously, and great care should be taken not to
rouse the passions, or excite the. will to obstinacy.  The
legitimate and proper use of the. whip is calculated to operate
upon the senseoffear almost entirely. The affections and
better nature must be appealed to in training a horse, as well
as in training a child. A reproof given may be intended for
the good of the child, but, if only the passions are excited,
the effect is, depraving and injurious. This is a vital principle, and can be disregarded in the management of sensitive,
courageous horses, only at the imminent risk of spoiling
them. I have known many horses. of a naturally gentle
character, to be spoiled by being whipped once; and one
horse that was made vicious by being struclk with a whip
once, while-standing in his stall.
I have referred to these instances to show the danger of
rough treatment, and the effects which may be easily produced
by ill usage, especially with fine blooded horses and those of a
highly nervous temperament.  Many other cases might be
cited, as such are by no means uncommon. Sensitive horses
should never be left after they have been excited by the whip
or other means, until calmed down by rubbing or patting the
head and neck, and giving apples, sugar, or something of
head and neck,      0       1   C, 7           0~~~~~~ —-— b-' —




16             CAUTION IN WHIPPING.
which the animal is fond. Remember the whip must be used
with great care, or it is liable to do mischief, and may cause
irreparable injury.
Courage in Ialndling Horses.
Many men boast that they "are not afraid of'any living
horse," &c. To a really experienced horseman such assertions betray ignorance and inexperience. Very many of the
most lamentable accidents that occur with horses are the
result of this foolhardy imprudence. It is almost impossible
to convince a man who has never been run away with, that a
horse could run away while he held the reins, or that he cannot drive a kicker safely by any care that can be used; and
when such men are run away with, or have a horse kick the
wagon to pieces and get away, they will declare that they can
drive and manage any horse but that one.
Any horse that has learned to' resist the bit successfully,
cannot be held or safely controlled by the reins when under
great excitement, and it is idle for any man to pretend that it
can be done. I have found hundreds of horses which would
run away every time they were driven, regardless of the most
severe bits, though pulled upon by several men. I have seen
horses that, on a walk, would pull two and even four men, by
the reins, though tugging and pulling as they pleased. Of
course it is the most senseless imprudence to talk of driving
and holding such horses, when there is almost certainty of
being unable to retain control should the animal become
excited.
While it is highly important to appear fearless and confident when approaching and handling horses, it is not to be
assumed that a horse will not bite, strike or kick, because
courage is shown. An Irishman, who supposed a horse
would not attack or injure him if he would stand still and
show no fear, walked into the enclosure of a vicious stallion.
The horse rushed upon him, bit and struck him down, and it
was with the greatest difficulty that he was rescued, even at
the cost of a broken arm, three ribs and a leg, with serious
internal injuries.
I once encountered a terribly vicious mare, and having
purposely been kept in ignorance of her bad character, I'went
into the yard without sufficient precaution, and had to jump
for my life to get away from her. When she rushed for me




SHOULD BE COURAGEOUS, BUT NOT RECKLESS.       17
I instantly saw that escape was my only alternative, and
sprang head foremost over the high enclosure. It was a
trick to defeat me, as all my would be pupils laughed, and for
the first time I discovered that they were all over head and
out of all possible danger. This was one of the most desperate and dangerous specimens of the horse that I ever saw.
She would run at a man with all the ferocity of a mad dog,
and would no doubt have bit and trampled me under foot in
a moment, could she have got hold of me. But in thirty'
minutes I made her perfectly gentle, and safe for any one to
approach and handle.
The horse always reveals his intentions by the action of
his ears and expression of his eye, as plainly as could be done
in words. In approaching a horse; the notice should be carefully directed to the head for an understanding of the intentions. If danger is discernible, and is not too imminent,
stand still. It will not do to show, by the expression of the
features or faltering of the voice, that fear is felt. When a
bad horse must be encountered, especially if a stallion, the
eye must be kept steadily on that of the horse, and the will
must be inflexible. Adroitness and firmness in diverting the
attention, will hold some horses of a dangerous character in
check, when the least exhibition of weakness or fear would
precipitate a calamity. Some horses, stallions in particular,
seem to read the feelings of a groom, or any one handling
them, as plainly as could a man, and any indication of timidity
will encourage them to resistance. Whatever the feelings or
apprehension of danger, there must be no evidence of fear
exposed in the language or actions.  There is a peculiar
acuteness of perception acquired by long experience and observation, that cannot be explained, but which enables one at a
glance to see how far it is safe to approach and handle a horse
of a dangerous character. Indeed, I do not know of any profession or calling which requires more acuteness of perception,
or firmness and judgment, in directing and controlling the efforts,
than that of the professional horseman. Discretion is sometimes the better part of valor, and the courage shown should
always be according to circumstances. No one should recklessly expose himself to the fury of a vicious horse, and when
necessary to handle such, it should be done with the greatest
caution and judgment, always taking care to first confine the
horse in some way, until the bridle or other means of control




18       ADAPTING EFFORTS TO CIRCUMSTANCES.
can be securely attached.  It is well, perhaps, to remind in
this connection, that the subjection and successful reformation
of some horses will often call for much resource of prudence
and skill. Horses having small, round eyes, set well into the
head, or heavy eyelids, gray or sorrel color, denote the hardest cases.  They will sometimes show the obstinate recklessness of a bull dog. Young horses, too, are often the most
trying.  Do not be discouraged because such are obstinately
persistent.  My principles of subjection will enable, with
anything like ordinary effort, absolute control of any horses.
First, if you anticipate the animal to be plucky and determined, work quick, until there is submission, putting through
the regular routine of subjection.;When you have cases of
this kind, if possible make your point before the horse can
become warmed up to any considerable degree, as greatly
heating the blood blunts the sensibilities and stimulates resistance to an extraordinary degree, and instead of the subject
working in easily and gently when attempted to be driven in
harness, he will be more likely to resist restraint.  Skill and
tact in this will add very much to your success in working
the horse into good character. The second method of subjection is your principal reliance, in extreme cases. If necessary,
disabling in driving, by the foot trap, is often useful. After
making your point, hold it by driving and handling until the
animal is entirely cool and gentle. The impression should be
fixed by rewarding liberally with sugar and salt, &c., when
there is submission. Remember the character is not always
set and made reliable by the animal being made to yield, and
drive gently once or twice. Handle cautiously for a few
times, expecting resistance, and ready to combat it until tile
character is made reliable. This prudence is the more necessary if the animal is valuable.
Reference to the different heads in another part of this
book will give details for the proper management of different
peculiarities of disposition and habit. In studying the laws
of equine subjection and education, many striking truths are
forced upon the mind. The wisdom displayed by the Creator
in adapting the different domestic animals to the wants of
man, the ease with which they can be subdued and controlled,
when subjected to proper and reasonable treatment, is truly
wonderful, and the inevitable consequences of every act of
imprudence committed in their management is strikingly clear
and positive, reminding us that it is not only our duty, but




CORRECTING OUR ERRORS.                   19
economy and wisdom     in us to correct the errors of imprudence and ignorance which have been so long and so extensively practiced by the masses. This duty addresses itself
at once to the reason and all the higher faculties of the mind,
and, in its true sense, is in every way inspiring to a higlier
feeling of responsibility and elevation of character.
CD If the owner wishes, he is at liberty to read the foregoing part of this
work to others, it not being in any way an infringement upon the secrecy
imposed.




TRAINING THE WILD          COLT.
THE opposition and resistance of a colt is natural, and is
induced by fear and ignorance of what is required of him.
Colts of a highly sensitive or positive nature will often resist
being handled or controlled, with the most reckless perversity.
When much obstinacy is anticipated or shown, the first thing
to be accomplished is to overcome such sensibility and resistance as will ensure safety to the operator in handling the
animal as he desires. If this point be thoroughly made, the
colt will be sufficiently plastic and submissive to ensure
safety in his management and certainty of control. To produce such results, much prudence and skill is often necessary,
and the reader must bear in mind that his success in training
and educating horses will depend upon the discrimination and'judgment "with which his efforts. are adapted in applying my
Thzeory of Macnagement.
If-:;possible, the operator should have a good room or training yard, about twenty-five or thirty feet square, or even
larger. See that all causes of injury are removed, and get the
colt into this enclosure very quietly; if he is wild and nervous,
see. that no hens, dogs, etc., are in the room. Say to your
fiiends, it is necessary to your success, and is a condition of
your instruction, that you must be alone.
Of course the colt must first be haltered. If not very wild,
this will not be difficult to do. But if very wild or vicious,
this may be difficult and perhaps dangerous, and you should
always carefully guard against injury to yourself as well as
your horse, and at the same time you maay accomplish your
object just as surely, if not as easily.  Take a light pole ten
or twelve feet in length, or as much longer as you can use to
advantage, if the colt is very wild or dangerous, and drive two
nails into it, about eight inches apart, the first about an inch
from the end, with the heads bent a little outward from each




TRAINING THE COLT.                21
other. Take a common rope halter with a running noose,
pull the part which slips through the noose back about two
feet, and hang the part that goes over the head upon the nails
on the end of your pole nicely, keeping hold of the hitching
part, which must be as long as your pole. Your halter is now
so spread and hung upon the stick as to be easily put on to
the head. If the colt is not excited or frightened, as you
extend the halter towards him he will reach out his nose to
smell and examine it, and while he is gratifying his curiosity
in this way, you can bring the slack part under his jaw and
raise the pole high enough to bring the halter over and back
of the ears, when, by turning the stick half way round, the
halter will drop from it upon the head. This will frighten the
colt a little and cause him to run from you, but this will only
cause the slack part passing back of the jaw to be pulled up,
and the halter will be securely adjusted.
Haltering the Colt.
Being haltered, the colt must now be taug~ht to submit to
its restraints and yield to control. Take a position at the side
of the colt, on a line with his shoulder, but at some distance,
and give a quick, strong pull towards you, instantly letting
loose on the halter until you -get the same position again. You
have the greatest advantage from this position, and by
adroitly following it, never attempting to pull when he runs
back or from you, the colt will soon learn to yield to the
slightest pull in that direction, and will follow your every




22           TEACHING THE COLT TO LEAD.
movement on that side without pulling scarcely at all. Should
you pull slow and steady, he will learn to resist and pull
against you, and might throw himself down; but this you will
avoid by giving a quick pull, bringing him towards you, and
letting loose instantly. As soon as he will yield and come to
you promptly on one side, get on the other side and repeat
the lesson in the same manner, until the colt will follow you
readily and quickly on either side without pulling. Be careful
not to pull ahead until there is prompt submission sidewise.
You can then gradually pull a little more on a line with the
body until the colt will come to you promptly in any direction,
and yield readily to the slightest pull upon the halter. If the
colt is intelligent, and of a quick, tractable disposition, he will
soon learn this lesson thoroughly; but if very young, or of a
slow, sulky disposition, great resistance is likely to be shown.
If the resistance is very obstinate or reckless in character, you
must resort at once to a thorough course of subjection, which
will soon compel obedience. This you have been taught how
to do; and here I will only say that in most cases with colts,
a short course by the second method is sufficient, always being
careful not to tie too short;  With older horses, and with
colts of certain dispositions, the first method is usually very
effective.
Whenever there is submission you should encourage and
fix it by appealing at once to the affections.  Rub the head,
pat the neck and scratch the mane and tail until all excitement and irritation subside. The eye will now be mild in
expression, and there is an apparent indifference to being
handled. A coarse, harsh or loud voice is terribly irritating
to a sensitive or spirited horse or colt, and must by all means
be held in check. Speak in a gentle and natural tone, and let
your voice be softened by kind expression, for it will do much
toward securing the confidence of the animal and repressing
his fear. With some colts it will be necessary to repeat the
lesson in leading'two or three times, to fix the point of prompt
obedience. In every case the lesson should be made very
thorough.
HIitching.
When the colt will lead kindly and promptly, he may next
be taught to stand hitched. To prevent the possibility of his
learning to pull at the halter, take a piece of strong cord,
about a third of an inch in diameter, sufficiently long when




TRAINING THE COLT.                 23
doubled to be a little shorter than the halter when hitched,
and tie it in the following manner: Find the middle and- put
it under the tail; bring both ends forward, cross and twist
them three or four times over on the back, do the same in
front of the breast, pass them through the ring of the halter
Hitching.
and tie to the manger or post. Hitch in this way until the
colt refuses to pull back, even if frightened a little, and after
two or three days the halter can be depended upon with
safety.
Bitting
Is the next step in educating the colt, and implies not only
teaching the colt to submit to the restraint and control of the
bit, but giving as much style to the carriage of the head and
neck as the form and temper of the animal will bear. If the
bitting is imperfectly done, the horse may acquire habits of
resisting the bit, such as lugging upon the check, pulling too
hard on the bit, pulling on one rein, refusing to back, etc. To
do this thoroughly and properly may seem to be a difficult'
task, but it, is a simple matter and very easily accomplished.
The colt's mouth should first become accustomed to the bit.
To do this, put on a common bridle with a smooth snaffle bit,
without reins, and allow him to go as he pleases, in a yard or
field, for half an hour or more, which may be repeated once or
twice.  Next put on surcingle with check and side reins,
buckling the reins at first so long as to bring but little
restraint upon the mouth. After being on thirty or forty




21                TRAINING THE COLT.
minutes, remove, and at each repetition buckle the reins a
little shorter, until the desired style of carriage is secured.
The colt should have at least one lesson each day, but never
more than two, as it is better to proceed slowly and thoroughly.
Bitting the Colt.
It seems needless to introduce details of a bitting harness.
Any simple construction of the ordinary kind will answer
very well, and the style is so generally understood that a
description here is unnecessary. The object being to bring
such restraint upon the bit that the head will be held up and
back most naturally and easily, without giving freedom to thb
head except in the direction of the reins. Care should be
taken to have the throat latch loose enough to not press upon
the throat when the colt is checked up, and the gag-runners
should be well up near the ears. Care must be taken not to
bring too much restraint upon the bit by buckling the reins
too short at first, as it is liable to excite such resistance that
the colt will rear up and fall over backwards, which would be
almost certain to result in death. Colts should not be checked
up too long at a time, as it becomes tiresome, and the colt
will learn to rest his head upon the bit and thus form the very
disagreeable habit of lugging. If, however, the colt should
fight the restraint of the bit or check, it should be left on till




HARNESSING THE COLT.               25
the fit exhausts itself and he shows a disposition to submit to
its restraint.
The bitting bridle should not be kept on very long at a
time. Short lessons at first, and gradually longer as the
mouth becomes hardened by the bit and the colt will bear it
without fatigue, is the proper course for bitting in this manner.
But simply subjecting the mouth to this course of discipline
does not teach submission to the restraint of the bit, nor does
it cause the horse to throw his head up and back when the
reins are pulled upon, as he should, or at least to only a
limited extent. Hence it is that many horses acquire a disposition to lug against the bit, throw the head down on the
breast, pull sidewise, throw the head forward, or some other
peculiar form of resistance in consequence of this imperfect
mode of bitting. All these tendencies I easily overcome by
the following simple treatment:
After the usual course of bitting is completed, or has been
in progress several days or a week, take a piece of cord
about eight or ten feet in length, of the common sash or
clothes line size, as strong and pliable as you can find. Tie
a large hard knot in one end, and about twenty inches from
this knot make another tie, passing the knot end around the
neck so it will just fit the neck forward of the shoulder. Pass
the other end of the cord through both rings of the bit, back of
the jaw and back through the loop around the neck, and draw
up the slack. Now stand in front of the head, holding the
cord tightly with both hands; give a quick, short pull downwards, which will cause the head to be thrown up and back.
Repeat this little jerking, downward pull, until the head is
given up and back freely at the slightest pull. Now, when
the reins are attached to the bit and pulled upon, the restraint
is precisely the same as before; and after repeating this lesson
a few times, the head will be freely submitted to the control of
the bit, and a beautiful carriage of the head secured, even
without a check.
Harnessing.
The harness may now be put on, and the next step will be
to teach the colt to be guided, right or left, and stopped at
pleasure.' No attempt should be made to teach the colt to
back, until he has learned to drive well to wagon; for if first
taught to back, there is danger that he will acquire the habit
of running back when confused or frightened.
2




26                DRIVING THE COLT.
If the colt is sensitive, and you wish to be very thorough,
after putting on the harness carefully, you may tie up the
tugs and let him run about the yard for half an hour. Now
put on the reins and gradually teach him to go ahead, turn
right or left, or stop, as you please, by the restraint of the bit.
Too much must not be expected of a colt at once, and the
trainer should always be careful not to excite the animal, or to
get excited himself.
Hitching to Wagon Poles.
If the colt is at all uncertain, it will be policy to work slowly
and carefully, as one mismove now may cause serious mischief,
by the colt becoming nervous and unmanageable, and, should
he be able to resist restraint, will easily cause a loss, by damage
to wagon, of from five to fifty dollars. To guard against this,
get THREE SLENDER POLES, two of them about twelve feet
long each, the third about seven feet in length. Lay down
the poles in the form of shafts, the front ends about twenty
inches apart, the back ends about six feet apart. Lay the
short piece across about six feet six inches from the forward
ends, and tie on with pieces of cord. Hitch the colt into
these poles, attaching the tugs to the cross pieces by tying
with small cord, and drive the colt around until there is
perfect submission to them. Driving to poles is an advantageous step, for two reasons: they cause less noise and excitement, and consequently are less likely to cause resistance; and
should the horse kick, no damage can result-whereas, one
kick against a buggy would be likely to cause serious damage
and loss.
Before attempting to drive a colt to the wagon or shafts,
all danger of resisting anything striking the heels should be
thoroughly overcome by the course of subjection. It is
always the safest and best method. Anything like a suitable
cart or two-wheeled sulky can be obtained by but few, and the
cheapness and ease of constructing poles into the form of
shafts will enable any one, at a trifling trouble, by this
means to easily supply that want.
In driving to poles or shafts, the horse should be made to
submit to touching against the hind parts in every manner
possible, without offering resistance. When hitched, let the
colt move off moderately, at first, gradually requiring him to
go right and left, back against the cross piece, etc. But
mind, do not commit the error of making young horses, when




DRIVING TO WAGON.                 27
first trained to harness, go back too freely, as it leads to the habit
of running back at the slightest causes of excitement in front
of them. Great care should be taken not to drive the colt too
much at first, and at no time sufficient to produce exhaustion.
Neither should his strength be taxed too much by driving up
or down hill, until he has become accustomed to the noise and
restraint of the wagon and learned to use his strength as
required. Let his drives be moderate at first, both in gait
and distance; about a mile or two on a walk first, gradually
increasing the distance as he will bear without fatigue. After
he will go nicely on a walk, let him trot a little, gradually
letting him out faster and a little further, as nice, smooth
pieces of road give opportunity; but be very particular to
restrict these little outbursts of speed at first to the limits of a
few rods, and never allow the colt to become exhausted. Let
him dash out a short distance, then gradually slacken to a
walk, speaking kindly and encouragingly as you would if
talking to a boy. After a while, let him out again, pushing,
perhaps, a little faster and further, being careful not to crowd
him to breaking. It must not be expected because your colt
is perhaps a good mover, that he will be a fast trotter. But
if he is a really good stepper, it is so much the more necessary
for you to use judgment and prudence in his training. There
is usually too much anxiety to try a colt's speed and bottom,
and he is often pushed, overdone, and spoiled perhaps, before
his powers are half developed.
A colt must not be crowded too much in educating to
harness. It is evident that he cannot be expected to submit
quietly to the irritation and excitement of harness and wagon,
or drive quietly like an old horse, without experience. He
must grow into familiarity with these things from usage and
contact with them. The trainer must be particularly careful
in the outset to overcome all fear from things TOUCHING the
HIND LEGS and parts of the body. This lesson must be very
thorough, and as each progressive step in educating the colt
is attempted, this point must not be lost sight of; and if each
successive point is clearly and thoroughly accomplished,
patient, careful labor will be rewarded in the possession of a
kind, gentle, trusty and well-behaved animal, whose services
will always afford pleasure to his owner and driver.




28                TRAINING THE COLT.
Double Driving.
It is generally the custom to drive the colt at first in
harness by the side of a gentle horse accustomed to harness.
When this is to be done, the colt should be put on the off
side, and to guard against danger, a short strap, with a ring
on it, should be put around the fore foot, below the fetlock.
Fasten the end of a piece of rope or strap about eight or ten
feet long to the ring. Pass the other end over the belly-band
of the harness and back to the wagon. The strap is to be held
with the reins to insure the utmost control, should the colt
become frightened and attempt to break away or kick. The
whip should be held over the old horse, to keep him up to
the movements of the colt in starting, but the gait should
be kept moderate.
In breaking the colt to drive double, after driving well on
the off side, he should be reversed to the near side, there
being less danger of becoming frightened from getting into or
out of the wagon, or of seeing things while being passed to or
from the wagon, by being more from view on the off side. To
lessen the probabilities of fear and resistance, the off side is
preferable at first. The limited understanding of the horse
seems to require that the same impressions and understanding
should be given of the character and appearance of things
forced to his attention on both sides. If not, when driven
alone, or on the near side, he may become suddenly frightened by the moving of.a robe, umbrella, the rustling of a
lady's dress, etc., from that side. (See Causes of Fear.)
Let the driving be moderate, and the load light, and, by
all means, if the colt is of a sensitive or nervous temperament,
the greatest mildness must be observed. Loud "yelling" or
cracking of the whip should not be permitted. A little imprudence of this kind is often the cause of very serious mischief with timid, young horses.
Backing.
After learning to drive well, teach the idea of backing by
pulling on the reins steadily, and saying "back." If there is
resistance give a quick, sharp, raking pull, which will move
the colt by the pain and force of the bit backward, repeating
until there is prompt obedience. If there is much resistance
put on breaking bit, which will soon secure submission.




TRAINING THE COLT.                 29
Riding.
If the colt is not of a very bad character there will be no
resistance to being rode after the first lesson of subjection. If
there is, attach a short strap or a piece of rope to the off fore
foot, throwing the other end over the back. Take a short
hold of this strap with the right hand, while the left grasps
the near rein of the bridle firmly. As the head is pulled
around,, the horse is made to step sidewise, and the instant
the foot is relaxed it is held up by the restraint of the right
hand on the strap, which is instantly drawn upon. The colt
is now on three legs, and. unable to resist. Jump lightly
on the back, press the feet
against the belly and flanks.
As there is submission release,
the foot, taking a firm hold of       /
the reins, which should be
held short.  Move the colt 
forward, and as there is an  -
indication of resistance pull
upon the strap and reins, 
which will disable and dis-            Biding
concert the horse from further opposition to being rode. If the
colt will not move forward, request an assistant to lead him
by the head for a short time. So long as there is any indication of resistance, keep on the strap. One thorough lesson
is usually sufficient, though some colts may require a repetition of the lesson.
When it is desired to mount, let the left hand rest lightly
on the mane, a little forward of the withers, holding the reins
between the thumb and fingers. Throw     the right hand
lightly on the back, -the body close to the horse. Now
spring lightly upward and forward. The instant of doing so,
let the right hand glide forward until the elbow strikes the
back bone, when the weight of the body is to be instantly
balanced upon the right arm, which will enable sufficient
strength to make the spring continuous, and thei body is
easily brought into a sitting posture. This is a slight undertaking, and a little practice will give the ability to mount the
highest horses with apparently wonderful ease. To, mount
on a saddle, stand by the side, a little back of the stirrup, the
face exactly towards the horse's head. Take a short hold of




30                TRAINING THE COLT.
the reins between the fingers, grasping into -the mane at the
same time, put the left foot into the stirrup, throw the right
hand over the saddle and press it against the off side, throwing the weight of the body on the left foot, and you can lift
yourself into the saddle easily.
Iiandling the Feet.
If the colt is of an ordinary good disposition this can be
done without resorting to special means. Stand well up'to
the shoulder, put the left hand on the shoulder, pressing
forward gently, which will relax the muscles controlling the
leg, with the right hand, instantly grasp the foot below the
fetlock and lift it up, removing the left hand and bring under
the foot to aid the right hand, or wholly liberating the right
hand. To handle the hind feet, let the right hand glide
gently from the shoulders back to the hip. At the instant it
passes the point of the hip, bring the left forward upon the
hip. While doing this, the right hand is being glided down
the leg gently, until it strikes the fetlock, when the left hand
is pressed firmly against the body at the point stated, which
will relax the limb, as before, and the foot is easily brought
up by the right.  At the instant of raising with the right,
the left is lowered and passed down the limb on the back part
of the fetlock. Or the foot can be raised and lowered a few
times with the right hand, while the left balances the body
by pressing against the hip until there is perfect submission.
If there is resistance, take up the fore foot, request an
assistant to hold it up for you, while he at the same time
holds the colt by the halter or bridle. Tie the end of a rope
or strap around the hind foot, above the fetlock, at the instant
of doing which let the hand glide along to the opposite part,
until six or eight feet from the foot. At the same time request
the forward foot to be let loose, the assistant holding by the
halter. Now pull upon the strap, which will bring the foot
forward, and at the instant of attempting to kick, let go, and
so repeat until the foot is submitted to the restraint of strap.
Then slip behind and pull the foot back, and as before yielding at each effort to kick, let go, until the foot is submitted
freely. Now take the foot from the control of the strap to
the hand and handle gently.
If there is very determined resistance,-tie the end of your
long strap around the neck, near the shoulders, pass the other




HANDLING THE FEET.                 31
end back between the fore legs, around the hind foot, but
under the strap around the neck and draw up on it, at the
same time holding him by the bridle or halter. The colt may
be frightened and jump to get clear of the restraint.  Should
he act very much frightened, slack up on the strap until the
foot is almost back to its natural position. Then as he will
bear, again pull a little shorter, at the same time pulling him
round in a circle by the head, until he ceases struggling to get
the foot loose. You may now pull the foot farther forward,
and hold it as before, until he will stand quietly. Now step
back a little and pass the hand down the hind leg. Slap the
hand upon the leg a little until there is no resistance, then
take it in the hands. If there is no resistance, undo the end
of the strap and allow the foot a little more freedom; at the
same time while holding the foot by the strap, pass the hand
from the hip down the leg quietly, rubbing and caressing
until able to take it in the hands.
Handle the opposite legs in the same manner, until there is
perfect submission. There is a natural tendency to do nothing
more as soon as the feet can be handled, and if there is trouble
in shoeing afterwards, it is not assigned to the real cause.
It must be borne in mind, that in all cases to insure perfect
submission, the feet should be repeatedly handled in the stable
or wherever kept, until there is no fear or resistance manifested. This end may not always be accomplished by handling
once. The character of the colt is sometimes so sensitive and
positive that as much depends upon handling a few times
gently after forcing submission, as in the treatment that may
be necessary at first.
Fears
Directly or indirectly, is the principal cause of danger and
resistance in horses, and to successfully educate young horses
requires that there should be perpetual precaution in preventing such excitement from any cause as would induce fear
of any object or sound. The horse's mind, or nervous system
is so liable to be thrown out of balance by sudden causes of
great fear, that very much -of their successful management
must depend upon the tact and judgment in preventing
such consequences. One of the most remarkable features of
this peculiarity, too, is the persistence there is in resisting the
object or cause exciting a sense of danger. Thus a robe,




32                 OVERCOMING FEAR.
umbrella, or other object once exciting an apprehension of
danger, is likely to become a source of the greatest terror.
When there is the least appearance of an excitable imagination, the most positive sense of control should be fixed upon
the understanding, so as to lessen the tendency, and at the
same time give power to force obedience to the extreme necessary.  The great difficulty in the management of horses predisposed to sensitiveness, or those becoming afraid of some
object or causes with which their use requires contact, is want
of sufficient power to coerce. I would not imply that gentleness is not an important essential; but it must not be to the
mind of the horse the actuating motive, while the fear of disobedience must be so fixed upon the mind, that the disposition
to resist control is neutralized.  This is the point to make
first, if possible.  (Which is now seen to be easily done.)
Then gently and carefully bring to the understanding a clear
conviction of the harmless character of the object or sound,
whatever it is. If the colt is wild and sensitive, the first step
to be taken is to give him a thorough course of subjection.  If
the habit is very bad, it becomes absolutely necessary to do so.
There is in some colts a natural predisposition to extreme
sensibility and fear of the most ordinary causes' of irritation.
A small brain, denoted by -a narrow forehead, or a clear,
sharp, open, restless eye, indicates this character.
But we see, too, that colts of the very best disposition are
easily spoiled by ignorant, imprudent treatment.
It is very remarkable, also, that many colts of the most sensitive and excitable character, by one or two lessons of careful,
thorough treatment, become as tractable and obedient as old,
gentle horses. I could refer to very many interesting cases in
proof of this. One of the most marked in my recent experience,
(Oct., 1868,) to which I will refer, was a six year old horse,
owned by A. Smawley, of Petroleum Centre, Pa. This horse
was of so remarkably wild and desperate a character that he
was known by the name of " Wild Pete."  He would scringe
and jump at the least touch or appearance of anything strange;
he would not stand to be cleaned, could not be harnessed, and
to attempt putting him in shafts would excite the utmost desperation, jumping and kicking clear of restraint at all hazards.
He was one of the most desperate acting horses of the kind I
ever saw. Indeed, anything touching him   belind, even a
touch of a whip, would make him jnmp and kick regardless of




OVERCOMING FEAR.                   33
consequences. Yet, after subjecting him to two or three
energetic lessons of less than an hour each, I could drive him
to my buggy with perfect safety, and he could not be made to
kick or resist control. So perfectly docile did he become, that
he was let for driving in the livery, and has proved a very
superior and safe carriage horse. As a rule, however, constitutionally timid horses yield slowly, and require careful as well
as thorough treatment.
Colts of the gentlest and apparently most fearless disposition, are often made so nervous and excitable by being once
greatly frightened in some way, as to become of the most nervous and dangerous character, or are really insane so far as
certain particular objects in certain positions are concerned.
This is illustrated.by the number of otherwise gentle, young
horses that are frightened at some particular object, or cannot
be driven in harness. When the cause is traced out it will be
found in every instance to have been the result of being
greatly frightened or excited in some way. Sometimes the
most trifling causes will derange the horse in this manner.
Even the accidental moving of a piece of white paper will
sometimes so excite a previously docile colt, that he will afterwards be a flighty, unreliable animal, always on the alert to
Jump, and possibly kick at the least appearance of such an
object. Incidents of this kind are common to the observation
of every one in the least familiar with the peculiarities of
equine nature.  Now unless the colt is made perfectly obedient and docile, to bear handling and the restraint of harness,
and the rattle of the wagon, this being suddenly frightened at
some imaginary or trifling cause, is at any moment possible.
The first object of the efforts should. be to see that every step
of progress is made so thoroughly as to preclude such a possibility, which can be easily done by making the colt familiar
and submissive to the restraint of the bit, and fearless of the
contact and rattle of the wagon, etc., before hitching.
The great difficulty with most people is, they are too harsh
and too hasty. They undertake to do, and require more
than they have power to enforce, or than the horse is able to
understand.
In educating the colt, the rule should be to do and require
only so much as he will bear and understand, by commencing
slowly and gently repeating, and following up one advantage
after another, to the end of inspiring entire disregard of the
2*




34                 OVERCOMING FEAR.
causes of excitement. The horse's principal mediums of understanding are seeing and feeling with the nose.  Through
these he examines things new and strange to him. If in
approaching the colt you reach out the hand gently, he
will smell and feel of it with his nose. Every other means
of understanding seems to be subordinate to this, consequently in handling the colt we should always commence at
the nose, then gradually work back, as there is submission.
The same care should be taken to overcome fear of being
handled about the feet, etc.  Commence at an insensible
part and work to the sensitive. In educating to harness, the
same prudence should be exercised by bringing the object to
the nose, or leading the horse up to the object, and allowing
him to feel and examine it in his own way.
We must be satisfied with our ability to guard against and
overcome these difficulties of fear as we can, or as circuinstances and opportunity will offer. The great point of success is in guarding the horse from being roused to a great
sense of danger from any cause, and gradually, as he will
bear, force the mind to an understanding of the innocent
character of the object or cause of excitement. Familiarity
with any kind of danger blunts the sensibilities, and this
should be the object sought, after insuring the greatest possible
control over the animal.  The better to convey an understanding of my meaning, I will give directions for overcoming
fear of the most common objects, usually objectionable to
horses, which will indicate the treatment for anything else
not specified.
A RIobe.While held under careful restraint, let the robe be brought
up gently to the colt's nose. After smelling and feeling of it
in his own way until satisfied, rub it gently against the head,
neck and body, the way the hair lies, as he will bear. Then
stand off a little and throw it across the back, over the neck
and head, gradually stepping farther, until you can throw the
robe upon him as you please. Repeat the lesson several times.
An Umbrella or Parasol.
While holding the colt by the halter or bridle, as may be
necessary, bring the umbrella.to his nose gently, rub it
against the head, neck and body, as he will bear, spreading




OVERCOMING FEAR.                 35
it a little, repeating the process of rubbing, and so continue
gaining little by little, until you can raise the umbrella over
the head, and pass it around.the animal as you please, without exciting fear or resistance.
Sound of a Gun.
First, commence by snapping caps a short distance from
the. horse, gradually, as he will bear, approaching nearer, until
you can snap caps while the gun is resting upon the back,
over the head, etc. Then put in a little powder, and at each
repetition increase the charge until you can fire off a heavy
load without exciting fear.
Railroad Cars.
Let the animal see them at rest, then gradually lead or
drive him up to them, even to smelling them with his nose.
Now, as you have an opportunity, drive the horse around
while they are moving, working up nearer as you can, and
at the same time turning him around so that he can see and
bear them from different directions. This lesson should be
often repeated, being careful not to crowd beyond what the
colt will easily bear, until they cease to attract his serious
attention.
Objects Exciting Fear While Riding or Driving.
Should the horse show fear of a stone or stump, or anything of the kind, he will naturally stop and stare at the
object in an excited manner. Should the cause of fear be
great and sudden, he may attempt to turn round and run
away. This is to be guarded against, by sitting well forward
on the seat, and taking a short hold of the reins, at the same
time speaking calmly and encouragingly to the horse. Bear
in mind the horse has a great advantage over you, that his
excitement is liable to precipitate his whole strength against
you at the least sense of freedom, or additional cause of
excitement; that once resisting control in this position, he will
try to do so again at all hazards, under like circumstances.
Speak encouragingly to the horse, but keep a close watch
upon his actions. In a short time the extent of his alarm
will not only be perceptibly lessened, but he will become
calmer, and almost disregard the object. Then drive nearer




36                OVERCOMING FEAR.
as he will bear, exercising the same patience and care. At
each effort to get nearer, the horse will become apparently as
much frightened as at first. Keep pushing a little at a time
in this way, as the horse will bear, until you can drive up to
the object, or by it, and you not only leave no bad impression upon the mind, but gradually overcome the disposition to
become frightened.
Sometimes a horse will dislike a wheelbarrow, baby wagon,
turkeys, etc., but the treatment is the same.  When the
excitement is not so great as to endanger successful resistance, and the horse is disposed to "play off, or soldier," it
may be advisable to apply the whip a little sharply, but this
is to be avoided when it is seen the resistance is wholly
induced by fear, and the animal is not lazy.
Some horses while driven to carriages, will not bear the
noise and excitement of other horses being driven up behind.
This is principally on account of the'horse's inability to see
and understand the cause of the excitement, or it may be
owing to the fault of the driver. Some one drives up rapidly
behind, perhaps wishes to "go by," to prevent which the
colt is hallooed at and whipped up to prevent such a result.
This may be repeated a few times, and the consequence is, if
a spirited horse, the habit is acquired of rushing ahead to
avoid the punishment expected under such circumstances, and
very often, too, a horse is forced into this habit by being run
into from behind.
Using Blinders.
It must be remembered that the blinders in general use so
cover up the eyes as to make it impossible for the horse to see
things plainly sidewise, or at all from behind, which tends to
increase the fear, as we are convinced, when we see that
to overcome the animal's fear of any object, the first and most
obvious point is to give him an understanding of its appearance and character. Blinders are admissible only when there
is a desire to conceal the defects of a large head, and to cause
a naturally lazy horse to drive steadily, by preventing him
from seeing when the whip is about to be applied.
Mlust See the Object from Different Positions.
It is one of the peculiarities of the horse to understand and
be reconciled to an object or cause of excitement only from
its position and circumstances as brought to his notice. This




OVERCOMING FEAR.                  37
seems to be on account of the horse's reasoning powers being
so limited as to be unable to retain the same understanding of
the object beyond the position from which it is brought to
notice.
Every progressive change of position requires almost the
same care and patience as that preceding.  For example, if
in teaching a horse to submit to an umbrella, if it were shown
only from the near side, upon carrying it to the off side, would
inspire nearly as much fear as at first from the near side, or
there may be an aversion to some particular object, or resistance may be inspired only under certain circumstances. You
may succeed in getting a colt gentle to be rode from the
near side, but an attempt to mount him from the off side,
would in all probability be resisted.
If a horse is afraid of an umbrella while in harness, he may
be taught to care nothing about it out of harness, but if not
taught to feel and understand its character in harness, would
be apt to be as much frightened at it in that position, as if he
knew nothing about it.
This seems to puzzle many well-meaning men, and is often
the cause of much disappointment.
A horse that is afraid of an umbrella, is brought forward to
illustrate the management of such habits. In a short time the
horse will bear the umbrella over and around him in any
manner, without seeming to care anything about it.  The
owner is pleased with the belief that his horse is broken, when
in harness at some future time, he raises an umbrella behind
the animal, and is astonished to find him almost as bad as
ever, and he naturally condemns the instructions as of no
account; and indeed this would seem to be correct. But when
it is seen in the first place that it is often necessary to repeat
the treatment, that expecting the animal to be broken of the
habit by a single indirect lesson, only tends to defeat success.
For without ability to control the horse, every attempt to
force upon him the object of aversion only inspires greater
resistance, because taught to a still greater degree to resist
control, and a sense of freedom always tends to increase the
animal's fear of the object. Now the efforts of the owner to
control the horse directly in a position of so great disadvantage, may produce exactly this result, and then from  an
ignorance of the cause of failure, believes it is impossible to
make the horse gentle.




38           TREATMENT IN EXTREME CASES.
The lesson must be repeated as long as may be necessary
to the end of perfect success, or the horse once excited is
liable to drift back to being almost as bad as at first.
Special -Remarks on Subjection.
It must be borne in mind that horses of courage and spirit
will resist any attempts to overcome their resistance, with the
greatest persistency.
If there is great strength and bottom, and the color gray or
sorrel, you may look for a horse that will resist you at every
point. If the eyes are small and set well into the head, or if
the eye-brows are heavy and the expression of the eyes stolid
and reckless like those of a mule, you will find pluck of the
most determined type. In the management of such, push
them as rapidly as you can, subjecting to the first and second
methods of subjection as may be found necessary. If the
animal is warmed up very much, your difficulty will be
increased; and if very reckless, hold your point as well as
you can until the system becomes cooled, when the treatment
is to be continued, doing so much as the animal will bear
until successful.
It is always necessary to success to encourage obedience by
the greatest kindness. Indeed, the most severe abuse will be
forgotten if as soon as there is submission the animal be
caressed and given sugar and salt, apples, or anything of
which it is fond. In reforming character, the mind must be
toned down by careful, gentle treatment, after the animal
yields to the subjective course.
As I have illustrated to you before the class, it is rarely
ecessary to resort to extreme measures, as my simple treat
ment is so effective as to enable the successful submission of
even horses of a very bad character at most in an hour's time.
Remember, too, that by the almost absolute control given
by my system, you could easily, if imprudent, do harm. I
have not only before the class, but in other portions of this
book, tried to impress upon the mind the bad consequences of
thoughtless force.
If an ignorant, coarse-tempered man were to be given the
use of a finely constructed but powerful machine, how soon
might he get it out of order and injure it for want of a little
patience and care in attending it! Want of oil would in a
short time, perhaps, cause it to run hard, and if forced without




PRUDENCE AND JUDGMENT NECESSARY.           39
looking to the direct cause, would only produce greater inj ury.
A little oil in one place, a little readjustment where needed in
another, would repair a derangement which perhaps violent
force would only increase to an irreparable degree.
While the subjection of horses requires resources of power,
the finer faculties of the mind must be brought into play, in
determining just where and to what extent this power is to be
directed; and remember, the greater your prudence and skill in
doing this, the less appearance of violence.
The great point in reforming a horse is to change his character, without BREAKING HIS SPIRIT or in any way INJURING
HIM. Nowr my system of subjection will enable all this, if
ordinary prudence is used in its application. I would earnestly
urge upon the reader to keep in mind the fact that it is to the
strategy based upon the exercise of reason that gives man his
position of supremacy, and that to be a really good horseman
requires its exercise in directing the efforts in the performance
of this duty.
Safety Shafts.
Get three scant'lings or poles of good tough timber of about
four inches in diameter and fourteen feet in length each. Put
down two of these, so as to bring them two feet apart at one
end and thirteen at the other. Now lay the other pole across
on the ends of the others widest apart, about six inches from
the ends. Mark and halve them together. Then bore a hole
through both pieces at each corner so fitted, and bolt them
firmly together. To fix the other ends, get a piece of tire
iron four feet long, and bend it in the form of a breast collar,
the rounding side in, so as to have each end extend back on
the inside of the holes ten or twelve inches, and fit up nicely
to the wood; have two holes punched or drilled through each
end of the iron, by which to bolt it firmly to the poles. Then
drive staples into or near the ends.
To finish the other ends, take two pieces of iron about a
foot each in length and an inch in diameter, flat one end and
punch through two holes. Work down the other ends to a
sharp point; bend down the ends so sharpened about six
inches, in the form of a half circle; bolt these irons under the
ends of the poles, the sharp ends pointing down and back,
forming dogs, something like those on the ends of sleigh
runn1rs, to prevent the sleigh running back. Now harness




40              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
your horse into this arrangement, taking the precaution to
wind the irons across the ends with an old piece of cloth, and
strengthening the harness if at all likely to break, by tying a
piece of rope around with a piece of breeching, and around
the body as may be thought necessary. Though perhaps the
best way to hold the shafts, as we call them, nicely up to the
neck, is by bringing a strong rope or strap over the neck, and
fastening around the iron near the wood. This is a very good
means by which to drive unmanageable horses towards such
causes of fear as cars, etc. Hitch the horse into the shafts,
let the reins run back through the lugs; get behind and
drive around, touching up with the whip as may be necessary.
If the horse is valuable, and it is desired to take unusual precaution in overcoming fear of cars, or any other greatly
exciting cause to drive up to or by, tihe shafts are good. It
is impossible for the horse to run back or sidewise, or rear
over back. The horse is almost helpless, so far as being able
to run back or sidewise.
ItRuning Away.
This habit may be induced by a great variety of causesprincipally by becoming frightened in some way, though often
by the horse learning to pull against the bit so hard as to
defy control, and is therefore at the least cause of irritation
disposed to pull ahead and run away. When actuated by fear,
the resistance is usually so sudden and violent as to induce a
degree of resistance to the restraint of the bit we have not
power to prevent or control. Sometimes, too, the horse will
spring sidewise, or turn around in doing this, and will so
learn the trick that at the least excitement he will sprinig
into a sharp run. All this resistance, it is seen, results from
defective traiining of the mouth, and is virtually surmounted
when able to force so great a degree of control by the bit as
to break up all disposition to resist restraint when excited.
Running away is a very serious and dangerous habit, and
all such predispositions should be thoroughly broken up when
manifested. If very bad, tone down resistance by subjecting
the animal to a course of subjection; after which put on the
breaking bit and force tie most thorough submission to the
slightest restraint of the reins.
Let this be very thoroughly done. Then hitch to wagon,
making the horse stop whenever called upon or pulled upon




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.               41
by the reins, until there is no disposition to resist, though
subjected to the greatest excitement. Some horses subject to
this habit will yield readily to the use of the four ring bit. The
foot-strap is also a valuable auxiliary, but the breaking bit is
in advance of anything else in overcoming this habit. Horses
of this character should be made thoroughly manageable
before being trusted.
Turning Around.
If the horse turns around, drive first with harness, whip up
sharply, then make him stop, always pulling in the opposite
direction from that the horse usually turns, until there is not
only the most prompt obedience to the commands in going
ahead, but ready submission to control, right or left, or in stopping, as may be required. Sometimes the habit is contracted of
pulling so hard on the bit as to resist control. In this case all
that is necessary to do is to train the mouth once or twice
with breaking bit, or use the four ring bit, and the habit will be
broken up. If one rein is pulled upon, pull sharply on the
opposite rein, and repeating at each indication of such a purpose until the head is yielded freely and evenly.
In reviewing the common causes of this habit, we see that
two objects must govern the efforts. First: To overcome or
neutralize the exciting cause of resistance-usually some
cause of fear. Second: To make the mouth perfectly submissive to the most delicate restraint of the bit; it being essential
that the exciting cause should be removed, while the power
to control resistance must be increased.
I will in this connection add, that there is no part of the
training of horses which should be done more thoroughly, or
tested more carefully, than this of teaching a proper submission of the mouth to the bit. Yet I will venture to assert
none is more imperfectly or ignorantly attempted; and that
the more experienced and intelligent horsemen should regard
doing this difficult, when there is so much to indicate to the
most ordinary observer the method of doing it with ease and
certainty, seems strange. And yet, perhaps, this is not so
strange, since it has been very much of a puzzle to do this
at all, and really in its true aspect shows more real science
than can be illustrated in any other feature of my treatment,
since upon this must depend ultimately the readiness and




42              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
success with which the horse can be guided and controlled in
harness.
It is essential in training a horse well to the bit, that the
idea is given correctly of submitting the head up and back
when pulled upon. Also, that the horse should be made to
understand exactly the meaning of every signal of guidance
and restraint. In training the mouth, the exact idea can he
conveyed by being particular in repeating the same kind of
reproof, by pulling sharply whenever there is an attempt at
pulling hard. There is soon not only prompt obedience to
restraint ff the bit, but there is no disposition or confidence to
resist control. Remember a horse cannot understand the
object of such restraint, if there is not uniformity of action
and language.  Yet most people talk to their horses in the
most careless manner. If there is an intention, of approaching
a horse, the usual word is " whoa " In driving, when it is
desired to make the horse go slow, " whoa" is the usual
word, and the consequence is the animal does not know what
is meant by " whoa."  Every action and word should have a
special meaning, and they should never conflict, that the
understanding may not be confused.  "Whoa" should be an
imperative command to stop. To go slower requires the use
of some other word. Even every motion of the whip should
have a special meaning. If the horse is managed with care
in this way, he becomes almost a machine, that yields submission to the slightest touch or word of command.
Running Back.
To break up this habit, there must be established a thorough
fear of the whip, so as to induce going ahead when commanded. Put on harness, and tie the tugs into the rings of
the breeching rather short. Drive around with the reins,
giving a short cut with a good bow whip around the legs
once in a while, if not prompt. As the horse learns to spring
ahead when commanded, pull a little on the lines, gradually
repeating until he will pull quite hard on the bit to'go ahead.
Make this as thorough as possible. In driving, repeat and
carry out this, going ahead promptly, whipping up sharply
once in a while if necessary.
The main point to make with horses of this character, is to
create a thorough fear of the whip. To do this well while
driving with harness, whip around the hind legs sharply,




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.             43
until the horse will start ahead promptly when commanded.
Now, attach to wagon, and gradually work up with whip
until there is prompt obedience. The foot strap may be put
on if there is any possible danger of the horse running back
when hitched. A much surer, though more complicated way,
is to use the safety shafts.
Kicking in Harness.
This is apparently the most dangerous and difficult habit to
overcome, to which horses are subject; yet it is a habit that
yields readily to my treatment, but requires care and thoroughness and a large share of common sense in determining
how much must be done and when to stop. This cannot be
learned by any fixed rule, since there is such a great difference of extremes shown in this habit that it is not safe to
venture a limit of what and how much must be done. I have
often broken horses of kicking, of apparently the worst
character, in twenty or thirty minutes. Then again, one
scarcely confirmed in the habit may require very much more
time; and a few extreme cases, of apparently a mild character when not excited, would call out all my resources for
hours, to make the subject yield safely to control. I broke a
horse in Maine of the worst character, of kicking, by a few
pulls upon the war bridle. At all events, the owner informed
me months afterwards, that the animal remained perfectly
docile. This horse would kick at anybody or anything.
But I found a horse in Mississippi, which was perfectly gentle to ride or handle, would only kick when to wagon, yet he
was the most terribly persistent kicker when in harness I ever
saw, or ever expect to see. All ordinary treatment was only
as play to this horse. Circumstances made it necessary to
break up the habit, and I felt compelled.to do so, and succeeded only after three lessons. Never did a horse resist
more bravely, but I succeeded in making the animal so gentle
as to submit the wagon against the heels going down hill,
and he was driven by me a week after being broken, in the
presence of a large concourse of people, proving safe, and
gentle afterwards.
Breaking of kicking, as with most other habits, requires
thoroughness in what is attempted. If there is more fear
than willfulness, the fear must be thoroughly overcome. If
based upon willfulness, that must be mastered at any hazard.




44              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
In either case, put through a careful but thorough course of
subjection, exciting resistance by rubbing a stick of some kind
against and between the legs until there is no resistance; now
put on harness and breaking bit, and compel perfect submission
to its restraint. Let the hind legs be touched as before, and
at each indication of resistance, punish sharply; with the reins
back the animal against a rail fence or anything convenient.
If there is perfect submission,, back into the shafts of the
wagon, or bring the shafts over the back gently. This is a
step requiring much caution and firmness.  Stand at the left
shoulder, grasping the rein near the bit firmly, and as the shafts
are brought forward, and the cross-piece comes in contact
with the legs, if there is much sensitiveness shown, give
him a sharp, quick jerk upon the reins, which will at once
disconcert the horse, and at the same time throw the head so
high as to make it difficult for him to kick. Force this point
well, until the contact of the wagon is borne, when the harness
may be attached. Now drive around gently, stopping and
starting repeatedly, carefully observing how much forcing
the horse will bear. If there is no indication of serious
resistance, follow up by driving around, until there is perfect
submission. At each repetition of being hitched to a wagon
for a few days, let the horse be backed against the cross-piece
several times until it is borne without flinching.
This precaution of testing repeatedly is absolutely essential
to prevent and overcome any growing sensibility or confidence
of ability to kick when driven, until there is not discovered
any disposition to indulge in the habit.
If this will not do, repeat the lesson of subjection which
the. reader has been shown, and if there is any doubt about
submitting to the shafts without danger of an accident, get
two poles about twelve feet each in length; lay them down
on the ground so that the small ends will be about twenty-two
inches apart, and the large ends are six or seven feet apart.
Next get a piece of pole of the same size, lay across and tie
firmly to the side poles just far enough from the forward ends
so when the horse is hitched in the tugs are tied to this crosspiece with pieces of cord. Hitch to this without holdbacks, and drive around, repeatedly stopping and backing
the horse against the cross-piece until there is perfect submission. This driving in poles may be repeated if thought
necessary, remembering that it is absolutely necessary to
make every step sure before the next is attempted.




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.             45
^ great advantage of repeating the lesson is, that the sensibility of the mouth is so greatly increased that the most
plucky horse will scarcely dare resist the bit after being
severely punished a few times. If the horse yields, but is
doubtful or appears touchy and sensitive once in a while, you
may be able to make your point by putting on the foot strap,
as directed under that head.
It must be borne in mind that much depends in making
subjection thorough, as the peculiarity of treatment is, that no
matter how good or proper the treatment, the horse must be
made to yield unconditionally, or failure is not only probable
but almost certain.
If, however, the horse will not yield to this treatment, it
will be necessary to resort to more complicated and slower
treatment, by which to counteract resistance, with more
severe reproof.
Kicking Straps.
To do this, have made four straps, like common hame
straps; two long enough to buckle around the hind legs
above the gambrels, and two a little shorter, so as to be in
proportion, to buckle around
just below the gambrel. The
straps should be an inch and     - 
a quarter wide, good thick            / 
leather, and the buckles 
should be heavy.   Now 
have made two D's, just
twice as long as the straps
are wide. This D should
have the straight part a
little rounding, and the corners not quite to a sharp point, Put a long and short strap
on each D, and buckle them around the hind legs of the
horse; the long strap above and the short one below the
gambrel, bringing the D in front of the leg. These we designate KICKING STRAPS.
Put a strong well-fitting rope halter on the head, tie a
strong two-inch ring on the end of the hitching part, which
should be of a length to extend between the fore-legs, over
and just back of the belly band. Then take a piece of strong
manilla rope, long enough to extend from the ring on the end




46            CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
of the halter back to each hind leg. Pass the end of this
through the ring to the center, and tie each end carefully into
the D's on the straps, the whole so arranged in length that
the horse can travel easily and naturally. Now as soon as
the horse kicks, the most severe punishment must result upon
the nose. No quarter is to be given until there is perfect
submission. The harness may be' put on after the horse
ceases kicking, and drive around as before.  These straps
should be kept on until there is no disposition to kick.
If the mouth is hard, use breaking bit and force as before,
with the reins, until there is perfect submission. The horse is
to be treated with the utmost kindness when he yields. Bear
in mind this rule must not be disregarded, of addressing and
winning the cooperation of the affections as soon as there issubmission. The foot strap may be used as a precaution
when hitched to wagon, until submission is made sure.
If the mouth is naturally sensitive, and the horse is docile
but quick and irritable, a different policy must be adopted, as
the horse may drive gently for hours, or even days, and yet
may kick at a real or fancied cause of annoyance. This
mode of treatment would not work well with such, as they
soon become cautious by throwing the head down when there
is such an intention, and there is not persistence enough to
make reproof sufficiently positive to cure the habit.
The OVERDRAW CHECK will now be just the thing. But
care must be taken to apply it right, or there will be cause for
disappointment in its use. The object is now to simply disable
the horse from his purpose at the least attempt to kick, which
we can easily do, especially while in single harness. Probably
the best way to do this is as follows:
Get a small steel bit and hang it loosely above the driving
bit in the bridle. Put the bridle on the head; now provide
yourself with a fine, strong piece of hemp or cotton cord,.
about three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and sixteen feet in
length. Cotton plow line is just the thing, or that kept at
hardware stores for hanging windows, will do.  Put the
center of this cord back of the ears, run the ends back through
the rings of the small bit and through the gag runners, which
should be close up to the ears. (See cut.) Pass them now
through the terrets and back through a ring, which must
be attached as far back upon the crouper as possible, and
attach the ends to the shafts on each side of the hips. At
first this check should be drawn short, to bring the head as




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.              47
high as the horse can bear.  The head is now not only
high, but the least effort to kick will thwart itself by
drawing the check tighter, thereby preventing the horse
from doing any mischief. As there is manifested less dispoOver draw Check for Kickers.
sition to kick, give more freedom to the head. When the
animal proves safe, change and use the common check rein,
at first rather short. A nicely rounded strap may be used
instead of the cord. I would here add, that I am aware very
many will fail to break up the habit of kicking, if the horse is
confident and persistent, for want of judgment and firmness.
Many of those who use horses, and who think, too, that they
are good horsemen, as the term is, are so confoundedly ignorant, rude, and wanting in energy to do anything more than
half right, or do more than perhaps half what is necessary,
that it is no cause for surprise that they should often fail.
Look first for the cause of resistance, second for the type of
disposition, and try to make the treatment such as will prevent and overcome the habit in the most direct and positive
manner, always striving to be cool and careful. Treat the
horse kindly, even with marked proofs of affection, as soon as
there is submission.
Kicking while Harnessing.
Put on the war bridle (small loop,) and work up with it
sharply right and left a few times, then pull down tight,
and tie into a half hitch. While holding the cord in the left




48              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
hand, step back and pass the hand from the shoulders to the
hind parts gently. If this is borne, take the harness in the
right hand and work it back gently over the back.  As this
is borne, untie the cord and tie down, so as to give the mouth
a little more freedom. Now go back and handle as before,
being careful to be gentle; if there is resistance. punish
sharply, tie down short again, and put the harness on. When
there is submission, untie, then work back as before; at the
least indication of resistance, tremble on the cord until the
horse will bear the harness while free from restraint.
Kicking while Grooming.
Some horses are so thin skinned that they can scarcely
bear a currycomb on the flanks or legs, and when excited by
rough treatment and too severe use of the currycomb, are
easily made vicious to handle or groom. Put on the war
bridle, and after working up with it, hold tightly, and with
the left hand use the currycomb on the back, gradually working to the sensitive part; as there is submission, give a little
more freedom to the mouth, and work back lightly. If the
horse seems unable to bear the currycomb, use the brush
instead, and that, if necessary, lightly.  Work lightly and
indirectly to the sensitive part, at the same time speaking
gently. It is almost impossible to overcome this habit if
there is not gentleness and kind treatment.
The currycomb is used too much by most grooms. A sharp
toothed, brass currycomb, must not be used on a thin skinned
horse; use a brush. I should want a horse to kick a man
out of the stall who would use a currycomb with needless
severity, or be otherwise needlessly harsh.
aKcking awhile Shoeing.
Some horses have a peculiar aversion to having their feet
handled, and if once aroused to resistance, from any cause,
are apt to become pretty determined in their habit. If the
foot is pulled away when taken up, or the horse is excited
and injured in some way while the foot is held, the fear of
injury is produced and associated with the requirement, which,
by the usual pulling, hauling and kicking practices of the
shop, makes the horse worse. The least appearance of ability
to resist, after being taken in hand, always inspires the horse
to renewed confidence and resistance, and if there is not




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.              49
ability or perseverance enough to enforce perfect submission,
after trying to do so, the horse is only made more determined
in the habit. As the object, is to break up the habit, the
energies must be concentrated as directly and forcibly as pos
sible, until the horse is so disconcerted and shaken in the confidence of his powers of resistance as to yield to restraint, and
submit the feet as required, when submission must be made
permanent by patient, gentle treatment.  If only a little
irritable and restless at being shod, put on the war bridle, draw
tight, and tie in a half hitch. The foot can now be handled.
Untie in a few minutes, and let the cord be pulled upon a
little when disposed to resist, which will distract the attention
and cause submission. If the resistance is determined, take
up the fore foot and have it held by an assistant; tie the end
of the long web around the hind foot above the fetlock. This
done, request the assistant to let go the foot and hold by the
head; while standing opposite the shoulder, pull upon the
strap until the foot is brought well forward, giving eloose the
instant there is an effort to jerk or kick.  Repeat pulling
and letting go, until submitted freely.  Now step directly
behind and pull back, giving, as before, until submissive;
then bring the web over the back around across the breast,
pulling short enough to bring the foot well forward; pass the
end back under the part over the back, and pull tight.
Let the assistant now grasp the web, holding firmly as
ever, with the left hand holding the head by the bridle.
This brings the leg forward, where it can be handled at will.
If this will not do, tie the end of the web or rope around the
neck, near the shoulders, in the form of a running noose; pass
the other end back between the fore legs, around the hind
leg, below the fetlock and back through the loop, around
the neck, drawing it through short enough to bring the foot
well forward.  Pass the end back under to prevent sliding,
and retain in the hand. The horse will now be very likely
to struggle to get the foot loose.  Should his resistance
be so great as to endanger injury, you can give loose on
the end of the rope. When the horse ceases trying to get
the foot loose, rest the left hand upon the hip, with the
right pull upon the foot forward and outward. If there is
great resistance, pull around by the head, which will enable
you to keep him in such limits as you wish. When the struggle ceases, go back and handle as before.  When the foot is
3




50             CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
submitted to the hand, while held to the restraint of the
rope, put the cord well back upon the neck, draw it down
tightly, and tie it into a half hitch.  Then pull upon
the foot with the hand as before. If not resisted, untie the
strap and take the foot in hand gently. Put it down and
take it up, rubbing and handling until-there is entire submission. Then carry it back with the right hand, keeping well
forward out of danger, by resting the left hand upon the hip,
and pulling and yielding to the foot until manageable. Now
pass the left hand down the inside of the leg, take it from the
right and carry it back gently; put it down and take it up
once or twice. Hammer upon it lightly, gradually increasing,
until the foot is submitted as required. -Now untie the cord
and tie it a little longer; go back and handle the foot as
before. If submitted, untie the cord, holding the end in the
left hand, and handle as before. If there is'an intimation of
resistance, tremble on the cord, which will keep attention on
the mouth, and remind of the previous control until the foot
is submitted without restraint. Manage the other hind foot
in the same manner, if necessary. The feet of such horses
should be taken up and' pounded upon repeatedly in the
stable, until submission becomes habitual. It must be borne
in mind that the smith shop is no place to more than prevent
resistance while shoeing, and it must be expected that a very
bad horse of this character will not be made more than temporarily submissive by the treatment usually necessary to
enable handling the feet to be shod. Indeed, such efforts are
well calculated to excite aversion to a shop and being shod,
and hence a horse of courage and sensibility is liable to be
confirmed in the resistance by such temporary treatment.
Let the horse be handled thoroughly at home, and if necessary put through a course of subjection, handling the feet
repeatedly until perfectly gentle. When taken to the shop,
if necessary, simply remind that submission must be yielded,
and treat gently-caressing and rubbing head and neck the
way the hair lies. Colts should not be taken to a shop to be
shod uniil thoroughly accustomed to have the feet handled.
Balking.
This habit is usually caused by confusing and overloading, or
trying to force too much by whipping when exhausted, or when
the draught from some cause becomes too great for the horse




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.               51
to manage, thereby exciting and discouraging the horse -before
able to settle down to a steady, determined pull. When a
horse, and especially a young one, becomes mad, and will not
pull when commanded, there should not be a word or an
action that would betray an understanding of the resistance.
Change position-take up time in some way by fixing the
harness or walking around, whistling or singing, if in the
mood. There must not be any appearance of anger. Give
the horse time to get over the irritation and become willing
to use his strength against the collar. Any characteristic of
willfulness denotes spirit and sensibility, consequently not disposed to submit to being rudely and injudiciously forced in
harness. If double, get both horses to start evenly. This can
be done best, and greatly lessen the weight of the load in
starting, by standing directly in front of both horses, catching
the bits with the hands. Now move the horses gently to the
right or left, until the wheel almost strikes the side of the
wagon-giving them time to become steady. When you see
they are ready, speak with cheerful, encouraging voice, "come
boys." If this precaution is taken, there will be no further
trouble; but bear in mind that the horses must not now be
permitted to go to the limit of their strength. While they are
still pulling with energy, at the first favorable place stop them.
After ample time to recuperate, speak to them gently to go.
It seems to be natural for a horse to go ahead and draw all he
can, and it is only when confused, excited and abused in the
most unreasonable and imprudent manner, that the disposition
is excited to balk. When once the habit is acquired, it is
liable at any moment to be persisted in if excited or much
force is used.
If there is any treatment to which horses are subject in.
educating to harness that is unreasonable and needlessly harsh,
and should be corrected, it is that of pounding or whipping to
make them go, when perhaps the animals are confused and
discouraged, and not in a condition to make much of an effort.
The first and most fatal cause of this perplexing habit is
the common practice of harnessing horses and attempting to
drive them, and make them draw heavy loads, before the
mouth is even trained to submit to the guidance or restraint
of the bit. I get out of all patience with men who say they
are good horsemen, pride themselves for perhaps owning many
horses, and always having more or less to do with them, who




52             CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
talk and act as if all that is necessary to do is to "vwhip the
animal through" at all hazards. If this would make the horse
go when commenced, it would be pardonable; but it is well
known, or ought to be, that whipping in harness, if there is
not certainty in forcing obedience, is just what should not be
done. The palliative treatment of patience and means of
encouragement, if there is not a knowledge of proper treatment, should always be adopted. It is only reasonable that
the horse should resist and become fixed in the habit when
needlessly excited and abused.
The whip is too irritating, without giving sufficient
power to force obedience, and as the will is stimulated to
increased positiveness and sensibility it becomes blunted in
proportion to the degree the blood is warmed, this advantage
of force by the whip decreases, while the resistance is
increased, and hence is often a direct cause of failure.
If the whip is to be depended upon, the horse should be
driven around in harness, when it should be made to crack
keenly around the hind legs the instant after "get. up" is
spoken, until the horse learns to spring ahead when commanded.   When' there is perfect obedience, attach to the
wagon and imove gently, stopping and starting often, until
obedience becomes habitual.  To prevent this habit the colt
should be driven around in harness, touching up with the
whip, until the idea of starting at the touch of the whip, and
guiding and submitting to the bit becomes prompt and habitual.  Then drive slowly and gently for some time after
being attached to the wagon.
If the habit is formed, and especially in single harness, it is
usually more from resistance to the bit than collar, and if the
horse is young he will yield readily to simple treatment. Put
through a careful but thorough course of subjection. Then
put on harness and breaking bit. Drive around, whipping
sharply the instant the horse does not start when commanded,
guiding right and left, and stopping at the control of the bit.
If there is a habit of LUNGING AHEAD, regardless of the bit,
or of not standing as desired when hitched, be positive and
thorough in requiring instant obedience to the command
zwhoa. Drive around until there is perfect obedience. Then
hitch to wagon, gently start and stop the horse repeatedly,
gradually becoming positive and commanding in action, until
the obedience is made certain. The lesson of driving to har



CORRECTING BAD HABITS.              53
ness should be repeated, if there is any disposition to resist.
But if the resistance is so positive that tlis treatment will not
do, try the war bridle, pulling right and left, until the horse
yields promptly to the least restraint upon the head. There
must be kindness and flattery for every act of obedience, and
the most positive-reproof at each effort of resistance. But too
much regard cannot be paid to the value of affectionate treatment when there is obedience.  Talk kindly, give apples,
oats, or anything the horse likes.
Effect of Kindness.
The impression of kind treatment, gradually showing and
encouraging the animal to yield obedience, is certainly very
effective, when carried out well in practice. During my
early experience I traded'horses very often. In this way I
became the owner of a pony mare, eight years old.  She
proved balky, and on inquiry I learned that she had been
traded round for years, and had been owned by nearly all
the sharp jockeys in the country, being entirely unmanageable. She would neither go down hill or move on a level in
harness. Neighbors advised me to prosecute for being imposed
upon with such a good-for-nothing animal. Making it a rule
not to find fault if cheated, I declared myself satisfied, and
concluded to try what I could do with her. I first filled my
pockets with apples, led the mare to a secluded piece of
smooth, slightly descending road, hauling the buggy by hand;
hitched her to the buggy, but did not urge her to go; read a
paper the better to show indifference.
After a while she started on a run. To try to make her
go slow by pulling, would be equivalent to making her stop,
and so let her go until she wore off the sharp edge of her ambition. I now gradually pulled her back, as I could see she
would bear, when I reached a descending piece of ground,
made her stop, got out of the wagon, talked gently, gave her
an apple, then moved forward a little, saying "come Jennie,"
(her name,) gave her another apple, rubbing her head, as before, and so repeated, for about half an hour. Then would
get into the bnggy and make her start; after going a few feet
or rods making her stop, but always getting out and rewarding her with an apple. The result was, that Jennie soon not
only would start and stop when commanded, but became
anxious to obey me. Drove her home; treated her with the




54              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
utmost kindness; next day hitched her up gently; made her
start and stop a few times before getting into the buggy; got
into the buggy; soon made her stop,. but rewarded her as
before. The result was that I soon could depend upon her
starting and stopping when commanded. Of course I carried
this treatment from a descending to an ascending grade, teaching the mare gradually to use her strength. The result was
that she became one of the most willing and pleasant little
working animals I ever owned. Sold her in a few weeks.
She became the property of a rough, bad man to horses, who,
by needless abuse, made her balk on his way home, and she became spoiled. This mare was of a sanguine nervous temperament, naturally willing to do.all she could when shown and
treated kindly, but would not bear whipping and abuse. Her
will was so strong that she would,stand bravely, regardless of
the most severe whipping. I struck her with the whip but
once, when she threw herself down in the harness. There
cannot be too much care and patience with young horses that
are learning to drive. If a little stubborn, putting through a
short course of subjection and teaching to move forward, as
before explained, will soon produce perfect submission.  If,
however, the habit is thoroughly formed, it must be counteracted by direct means. To do this best, hitch the balker by
the side of a gentle horse. Attach a strong piece of cord in
the form of a crouper, under the tail of the balker, bring
forward through the terret and tie to the hame ring of the
gentle horse, just short enough to give freedom so long as the
horses are even, but the instant there is a disposition to refnse, the whole power of the gentle horse is brought to bear
upon the tail, which will cause the horse to jump forward
instantly. Stop and start repeatedly, until there is no disposition to refuse moving forward when commanded. Should
pulling on the tail irritate and cause kicking, at once remove
the cord; tie the end of the hair into a knot; tie the cord to
the hair by this knot; bring forward between the legs and
attach the cord to the hame ring or collar of the gentle horse,
as before.  The restraint is now on the tail lengthwise,
which has a remarkably disconcerting influence, with great
power to force the horse forward when the gentle horse starts.
If this should fail, there is but one' resouice left, which I can
here describe, but which is very effective and valuable if
properly applied.




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.              55
Put the war bridle on; bring the part over the neck for.
ward to the ears; now jerk sidewise and ahead, and finall)
ahead as there is submission, until there is prompt obedience
in coming ahead when pulled upon. Hitch to wagon by the
side of a true horse.  Have prepared a smooth stiff pole
about the length of the wagon tongue. Bore a hole a few
inches from the large end, and about a foot or more forward
of the head bore another. Lay this pole over that of the
wagon, the end over that of the true horse's whiffletree, and
tie firmly on top with a piece of cord. Now step forward and
Pole applied for Balkers.
tie a piece of small rope from one hame ring to'the other of
the horses, under the pole, so as to be just taut when in posi-.
tion. Pass another piece of the same sized cord around the
pole and tie it into the true horse's hame ring short enough to
hold the pole in the center. Tie the cord on the head now to
the pole through the hole, just long enough to give freedom,
so long as the horses keep even; but as soon as there is
refusal to go, the strength of the true horse is brought by the
pole on the head, which will compel going ahead, (see cut.)
Start and stop the horses often, until obedience is secured.
This pole may be used so long as there is any disposition to
balk.
The horse should not be required at first to use much strength
in drawing. Let this be required gradually, as there is obedience and willingness inspired to work. It is a grave fault
to try to make the horse work immediately. This must not
be attempted. First, create a willingness to start when commanded, then gradually increase the load until it becomes
habitual to draw when commanded. I am aware very many




56             CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
will have- much trouble, and may wholly fail with horses of
this character. It is presumed that there is tact and intelligence enough to appreciate and' understand the necessity of
being patient, prudent and thorough in adapting the efforts
skillfully. Those who will not have or have not mind enough
to feel the responsibility and value of being governed by
reason in the' treatment of habits, not only of this type but
of any other, must expect a possibility of failure with some
very bad horses.
A very good way to work a single balker is to drive first
by the side of a gentle horse with the pole, then hitch to
single wagon, using two small poles instead of reins to the bit.
Now, if the horse does not move promptly when commanded,
a little push on the poles will cause him to start, and soon
cause prompt obedience. But I would remind again that
patience, delicacy and skill in carrying out the principles
taught, are the primary and grand essentials to insure success.
I would therefore remind, that to illustrate the full value of
my theory, it is indispensable that all the firmness, skill and
patience possible should be used in directing and controlling
the efforts, since without a judicious applicatton of the efforts
the advantages may he so far neutralized as to prevent or
greatly diminish success.
Kicling in the Stall.
This is one of those habits that, require great caution,
judgment and care in guarding against danger. Let the
horse know by some signal or command, of your presence
and intention to approach. Many horses of the gentlest character would kick if approached suddenly and unexpectedly';
and again, many horses that are gentle but a little peevish,
will not bear being approached without a little care in attracting attention. The motion of the ears and lips, and expression of the eye, will always notify of danger. And here let
me warn the reader that however careful he may be in not
going too near the horse, there must not be a semblance of
fear. shown in language or actions. The commands must be
low and positive, indicating power. If the horse will not
move round and seem to be distracted from a positive intention, stand still, and if the animal does not yield, walk off,
carelessly whistling, in such a way that the horse does not
see that you feel defeated.




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.              57
If you have his attention, repeat the words "get around, or
over," with a positiveness that must be obeyed, looking-at the
eye as if you could and would crush all opposition. When
you see the horse shrink from your gaze, glide up to the
shoulder, before the mind can be made to act, and the next
instant let the left hand be passed along the neck and down
the head to the nose-piece of the halter, and yoiu are safe, as
the horse cannot now kick, strike or bite you. I have repeatedly got to the -shoulder of horses in this way that would
kick and strike the stall just after I passed, yet not be struck;
it is a feat, however, that must not be attempted unless necessary. In going out, the rule is the same-pull the head
towards you, looking at the eye sternly; this will throw the
quarters from you, and at the instant you let go, glide out
and you are safe.
If the horse is dangerous, the safest and best course is to
put on the war bridle and make him feel your power by a few
sharp jerks of it. Lead the animal into the stall, then step
back opposite the hips and say, "get around."  If there is
not prompt obedience, give a sharp jerk, which will throw the
hind part from you. Repeat this, and in a short time the
horse will learn to step around promptly when commanded,
and allow being approached. If the horse is persistent, leave
the cord on, the small loop being left larger and passed above
the nose-piece or through. the rings of the halter. As you
now step out, retain the cord in the hand and hang or tie the
end to a nail on the post, leaving sufficient length to permit
the horse entire freedom to the halter.  Now when you
desire to go into the stall, if the horse does not step around
when commanded, untie or unhook the end of the cord and
give a jerk upon it, which will bring the animal to his senses.
Leaving this on a few days, caressing and giving presents of
sugar, apples, or anything of which the horse is fond, will
soon not only break up the confidence, but so enlist the attention that your approach will be looked for, and eagerly invited
to him by stepping around, and endeavoring to reach toward
you for the present.
I would here observe that there are very many men who
are not fit to have anything to do with a sensitive, well-bred
horse. They are either so coarse and harsh as to excite
resentment, and hate, or so dull and ignorant that they cannot
or will not see that they must both conceal fear and avoid
3*




58              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
danger.  They will not do either. They abuse and show so
much fear as both to excite and encourage resistance, and
without the genius or tact to correct the cause of mischief
they attribute all the trouble to the natural viciousness of the
animal.
I would caution also against teasing horses in the stall, or
while cleaning, by pinching, pricking or whipping, to "show
off," as the term is. Gentlemen who own fine horses should
be very particular about this, and a man who would in any
way persist in such treatment, or in any manner excite
resistance by annoying or abusive treatment, should be at
once discharged, whatever his other qualifications.
Pulling on the lEalter.
It is the disposition of the horse to persist in what he learns,
and this is remarkably so where the habit is one of resistance
to the restraint of the halter or bit. If the halter strap is
broken once or twice, there is a determined purpose to pull
loose at all hazards when hitched. This is sometimes only in
the place the habit has been learned. Thus a horse learns to
pull loose in the stall-he will resist being hitched in stall, but
will submit to be hitched anywhere else; or the horse has
learned to pull loose in the street and resists there, but will
submit and not pull in the stall. This habit is taught either
by being tied by the halter before knowing or being taught to
submit to being tied, or accidentally breaking the tying
strap. If from the first cause the animal becomes frightened,
pulls, and if successful in breaking loose, the habit is established; or the halter strap is so weak that the least jerk upon
it causes it to break, the habit becomes fixed.
Put on the war bridle, and train the horse about until he
will come to you readily. Now bring the part over the neck
forward to the ears, and pull more on a line with the body,
repeating until there is prompt obedience to the least pull
forward. Wind the cord once around a post, keeping the end
in the hand,' so as to let it loose a little if necessary. Excite
the horse to pull a little, which he will soon fear to do, as
there is great pain induced-by the purchase of the war bridle
in this way. Repeat until he will stand, and let the whip or
any other means of excitement be used, without trying to pull.
Should this fail, try the following method:




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.               59
Get a strong half-inch cord sixteen feet in length; put the
center under the tail like a crouper; twist them a few times
as you bring them forward over the back; pass forward on
Treating a Halter Puller.
each side of the neck, through the halter ring and tie to the
post or manger same as a halter; excite by any means that
will make the horse pull until the habit is overcome. To
insure safety, would hitch so for a few days, or so long as
there is any predisposition to pull on the halter. Same
treatment for pulling on the bridle.
Biting and Striking.
There are many habits which to break up successfully
require not only good judgment but the highest order of nerve,
and this is not only one of that class, but one that requires
perseverance and caution. The least want of watchfulness
will encourage this propensity; and however thorough the
training, if there is not this care, the horse will be encouraged
to become aggressive, and once allowed to do so successfully
the point gained is lost. Hence the necessity of being able to
see the intention at a glance, and disconcert the mind from its
purpose before being fully developed. The horse must be
made to yield the most perfect submission. If a stallion this
is an absolute necessity. If the war bridle will not enable
this, put through a course of subjection, and follow up with
either the four ring bit or war bridle, punishing sharply. In
approaching afterwards, speak sharply "get roundI " or any
signal that will attract attention.  Let the left hand be put on




60              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
the shoulder, (near side,) glide it up the neck to the head,
then down to the nose-piece of the halter. If there is an
attempt to bite now, the hand is carried up before the head
and held out of reach, while you can keep the head from you
with the greatest ease.
An old horse subject to this habit must be watched closely.
So long as there is disposition to bite, the horse must not be
regarded safe. Carelessness and timidity, especially if subjected to harsh treatment, may be regarded as the primary
cause. I have known horses to become inveterate biters by
being whipped once or twice.
A gentleman informed me lately that a horse he formerly
owned became terribly vicious by being struck once with
whip in stall. He was, up to that time, as gentle as any
horse could be. One of the most vicious horses I ever
handled of this character, was made so by being whipped
once severely. He jumped at his owner and would have
killed him if not driven off with clubs. He had run in his
stall seven months, and would jump at any one with the ferocity of a desperate dog. I made him gentle in less than
twenty minutes, and he remained of a good character afterwards. If the horse is young and thoroughly treated, there
will be but little trouble in reforming the animal. If old and
bad there is no hope of success, unless there is unusual nerve,
and genius to make every move just right, and follow up the
treatment until the mind relaxes from the purpose, and the
affections are won. The habit is clearly a mania when once
thoroughly formed.
If the horse is allowed to bite without instant and positive
reproof after training, no matter how thorough the training,
the predisposition will be again so strongly developed as to
make the animal watch for an opportunity to bite. After
forcing obedience, encourage every act of docility. Be continually on the watch for danger and lunish energetically for
aggression, but immediately encourage obedience by kind,
affectionate treatment.
Cribbing
Cribbing, so far as we are able to learn or judge, is a habit.
There may be constitutionally predisposing causes, but it is
certain, whatever the pretentions of any one, I have never
been given any proof of ability to break up the habit with




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.               61
medicine. Horses will not crib on anything that is lower
than the knees. Hence the treatment of tearing away the
manger and feeding on the floor, or in a basket.  Sometimes
sawing between the teeth will stop the habit.
There is but one practical plan of breaking up this habit,
and the success of that will depend very much upon the skill
displayed in making the adjustment.
The act of cribbing induces considerable contraction of the
muscles of the neck, and the larynx is forced down much beyond its natural position. This then is the key through which
we must act. Have the throat-latch of the halter hang on a
line with the top of the head to the junction of the neck with
the head. Take a piece of strap, (good firm leather,) about
five inches in length, and as wide as the throat-latch. Drive
ten ounce tacks in a row along the center of this strap, threeeighths of an inch apart. File the points sharp and of an
equal length.  Lay this strap on the inside of the throatlatch where it crosses the larynx, wind a piece of waxed thread
around both, at the center and ends of the short strap.
Buckle the throat-latch just long enough so that it will not
touch the neck when-eating or drinking, but will press sharply
at the least attempt to crib. The result is that at every
attempt to crib the tacks will stick into the neck, which will
hurt and disconcert the horse from doing so.
The point of success will really depend upon the perfection
and care with which this is kept adjusted. If there is large
muscular development on the neck or thick necked, the strap
must be buckled shorter than when the neck is well cut out,
as it is termed. Make the reproof severe at first. Then
keep it so as to touch sharply when a repetition is attempted.
If the throat-latch is not on a line with the top of the head,
the tacks will rest against and cut the jaw, a little below the
junction of the head with the neck. If this is kept on a few
days or weeks, and then put on carelessly or taken off, there
is likely to be failure; for if the horse finds he can crib once
after this is put on without hurting himself, he will try to
repeat the effort at all hazards, and will punish himself severely to do so. But if punished at first and this kept where
it will sting at the least attempt, it will be likely to cure the
habit. It is to be kept on from a few weeks to as many
months, according to the age and persistence of the habit.




62              CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
Getting Cast in Stall.
Drive a staple into a beam, or the floor directly over the
horse's head, as he. stands in the stall, to which attach a strap
or piece of small rope of sufficient length to extend within
fifteen inches of the floor. Before retiring for the night,
attach the other end of the cord or strap to the top of the
halter, making it just long enough to allow the horse to put
his nose to the floor. Being now unable to get the top of
his head to the floor, he is prevented from rolling.
Putting the Tongue out of the Mouth.
Have fitted a piece of thin sheet iron, about two and a
half inches wide, and five inches long, with the ends made
rounding, and the edges filed smooth. Drill two small holes
about half an inch apart, near each edge at the center. Fasten it through these holes on top of the bit with a piece of
small annealed wire. Shorten the cheek pieces of the bridle,
so that the bit is drawn well up in the mouth. This piece of
iron is now over the tongue, making it impossible for the
horse to get the tongue over the bit. Keep'this on the bit
for two or three weeks, when the horse will become habituated to carrying the tongue under the bit and keeping it in
the mouth. The tongue is sometimes, but not often put out
under the bit, which indicates a confirmed persistence in the
habit, and is sometimes impossible to prevent. The following
treatment will work admirably in most cases, and is the only
treatment worth explaining:




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.               63
Get three middling sized bullets and hammer them out to
about an inch and a half in length.  Drill a little hole through
the end of each. Tie one to the center of the bit by a little
piece of wire through the joint. Attach the others to the
bit about an inch from the center, (one on each side,) so as to
play loosely. (See cut.)
When this bit is now in the mouth, these extra arrangements will so disconcert the horse that in his struggles to get
them out of the way, he will forget to put the tongue out.
Jumping Over Fences.
Many farmers assert that this alone is worth the entire
expense of the lesson. Certainly if this will prove so valuable, the instruction on Taming and Changing Habits must be
invaluable. If a horse or mule, put on a halter that fits well
to the head-a five ring halter is best. Next find a piece of
thin leather, (an old boot-leg will do,) about as long as the
head, and from four to five inches wider than the head is at
the eyes. Form it same as cut, with
a string attached at each corner. Attach the upper corners by the strings 
to the halter where the brow-piece is /K
attached to the cheek-piece. Tie the
cords attached to the lower corners
back of the jaw  (being careful to
leave just freedom enough to masticate easily.)  Let the ends now pass    The Jumper.
over the throat-latch, and make fast.
iThe horse is simply disabled from looking ahead. He can look




64             CORRECTING BAD HABITS.
sidewise and back, but cannot look ahead or over the nose
forward, which will disconcert sufficiently to prevent the
animal not only jumping, but throwing the fence down.
If an ox or cow, attach the upper corners to the horns, and
pass the strings around the neck instead of over the throatlatch. I find that cows will not attempt to jump after this
has been used two or three weeks.
Horses and mules a much longer time,
and in some cases must be used for
months. Of course farmers should keep
fences in good repair to keep stock from
being tempted to jump them. It is fallacy to suppose that means, however
valuable, can be wholly relied upon for
success, so long as the cause is permitted to continue. The leather.should be
at least four inches wider than the head
at the eyes, but five or more will be
much better. This will bring the leather
outside of the eyes when on, from two
The Jumper.   to three inches, and around the side of
the face to prevent working over the nose. There may be
failure with this, but if properly applied exceptions will be
rare, as it has proved so far almost infallible.
Pawing in the Stall.
Get a piece of chain about ten inches in length-run a
short strap through one of the end links, and' buckle it around
the foot above the fetlock; or a piece of light chain can be
fastened to a small block, and attach it to the foot in the
same manner. When the horse attempts to paw, the clog or
chain rattles against the foot; and prevents a repetition of the
practice.
Kicking the Stall.
The same treatment used for preventing pawing may be
used; or a piece of plank may be attached across the stall
over the hips about an inch higher than the hips. At each
effort to kick now, the hind part will strike this plank and
prevent ability to do so. If the kicking is with one foot
against side of stall, attach some brush to the side of the
stall, or hang down loosely over the part kicked at.




CORRECTING BAD HABITS.             65
PULLING TOO HARD ON BIT, TURNING AROUND WHILE
DRIVING, OR RUNNING BACK, were sufficiently explained in
tile article on Running Away; which, with the illustration
given in teaching, will give sufficient knowledge of the
treatment necessary for these and other habits not specially
mentioned.
Kickinag Cows.
Put on the war bridle, (small loop,) and pull a few times,
right and left, then go back gently and attempt to milk. On
the least resistance, hold with the bridle and punish sharply,
so repeating as may be necessary until the cow learns to
stand quietly and becomes afraid to kick. Effectual in every
instance.
Of course due attention must be given to the condition of
the animal. Sometimes the teats are sore, and the pain
caused by milking is very severe.  Scolding, kicking, or
pounding with the stool should not be permitted, as it only
increases the mischief it is desired to avert. One or two
lessons have proved effectual in every instance used.
The War Bridle.
This is simply a fine threaded cotton cord of the best material, twisted hard, of about three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and twelve or fourteen feet long. Tie each end into a
hard knot, just as you would do to prevent its raveling, with
the difference of putting the end through the tie twice. Then
pull down tight and hard close to the end. Now tie another
knot about twelve inches from the end, but before-drawing it
tight, put the end through. (See cut.) This will make a loop
that will not slip or draw)hrough. The great simplicity of this
form of knot, and the ease with which it can be untied, gives
it preference to me over all other forms of knot I have ever
used, and is, in my judgment, the best form of knot, all




66           APPLIANCES FOR SUBJECTION.
things considered, to be recommended for general use. The
peculiar power given to this means of control upon the mouth
is liable to cause accident, when used upon a quick, sensitive
horse or green colt, with too much energy in such a manner
as to bring the restraint directly back upon the mouth, which
would in many cases cause the horse to rear up and possibly
fall over backward upon the head. Of course a horse is liable to get killed by such an accident, and it must and should
be guarded against. This loop should be just large enough
to go over the lower jaw, back of the bridle teeth of the
horse it is intended to be used upon. The other end can
now be formed into another loop in the same manner, with
the difference of being large enough to go over the head and
fit tightly around the neck near the shoulder.
Applying the War Bridle.
There are two ways of applying and using the war bridle:
1st. While standing forward of the shoulders on the near
side of the horse, throw the small loop over the neck and
take in the left hand. Then with the right put the large
loop through from the top side. Now pass the left hand forward to the mouth, adroitly spreading the loop in the same
position over the thumb, second, third and fourth fingers, at
the same time the right hand is to be passed under the neck,
around the head, upon the nose, which is to be grasped gently
but firmly, while the loop is put over the jaw back of the
bridle teeth with the left.
By standing near the shoulder and giving a sharp pull,
you will find the horse will come to you easily, by repeating
which the horse will soon learn to follow. This is a powerful
means of controlling by the head; is particularly valuable in
teaching to lead, controlling the head, for forcing, in bridling,
harnessing, grooming, or even in shoeing, if simply a little
irritable. Drawing down tightly and tying into a half hitch,
will sometimes have a powerful effect. It is not, however, to
be regarded as an infallible means, but is a really good, simple means of restraint, and must be used with care. When
the horse is of a stubborn, positive character, especially if
unbroke, it will be found that there will not always be sufficient power to force obedience with it, though in the majority
of cases it will be found to produce very fine results.




APPLIANCES FOR SUBJECTION.           67
2d. Take the large loop between both hands, and while
standing directly in front of the horse, slide it over his head
well back upon the neck, about where the collar rests. The
loop should be made in size to fit tightly around this part of
the neck. Now put the other end down between the loop
and neck. Put the loop this forms into his month back of
the bridle teeth, then draw down upon the end until the slack
is taken up. This method of using the war bridle, enables
more power sidewise than the first, but does not like the first
give power to pull ahead.
Four Ring Bit.
This means of controlling the mouth and head gives great
power. The knowledge of its use alone, if properly applied,
is worth the expense of the lesson and book.
Get a short snaffle bit-steel is best; heat one of the rings
and slip over it two inch and a half rings-common malleable
rings found in harness shops will do-then bend the ring into
form. You have now a common snaffle bit, with two rings
on the mouthpiece. (See
cut.)  Buckle into a common bridle.  Get m a d e
next two straps, one two
feet in length and three-quarters of an inch wide, made like a
hame strap; the other about three feet in. length, narrower
and lighter. Run the short strap through both rings and
buckle double, in the form of a nose-piece, buckling just long
enough to fit around the nose closely. Bring the long strap
around the short one at the center, pass up and through a
little loop left in the bridle between the ears and buckle, just
short enough to let the nose-piece come straight across the
nose. It will now be found by standing in front of the horse,
putting both thumbs through the rings and giving a little jerk
down and backwards, that the head will be thrown up and
back easily. The stop across the nose acting as the fulcrum
when the rings on the end of the bit are pulled upon, the two
inside rings slide towards the center, forcing the joint upwards
against the roof of the mouth, which causes so much pain that
the horse will not try to resist after being pulled upon a few
times. By tying the end of a small cord around the near ring
of the bit, then pass the other end behind the jaw through the




68           APPLIANCES FOR SUBJECTION.
other ring, then over the neck and down between the cord
and jaw, (let the part over the neck be set well back,)-now,
by pulling sidewise upon the cord, the horse will be found to
yield very promptly to its restraint. As a driving bit this is
very powerful. After being pulled upon a few times, there
are but few horses that will try to resist it. It overcomes
pulling on one rein or throwing the nose upon the breast.
The effect of this bit on some horses is very great. It does
not cut or make the mouth sore like other bits, and would be
specially valuable on horses that pull hard and get the mouth
sore, as it does not touch the lower jaw, yet forces perfect
submission.
Foot Strap.
Any piece of strap
or rope of about twelve, — 2/1/1 ins< %or fourteen feet in
<7X i   ^     elength, simply tied
around the fore foot in
\a I  1     most any manner, will
\t L I       i!.~[.~ — answer on an emert l   gency. But simply
\\ I'f      tying or knotting
around the foot is objectionable on account
of the danger of chafing and preventing circulation, or possibly
untying at some critical moment. When necessary to use a
foot-strap much, it should be specially adapted for the purpose
by making as follows: Have a smooth strap made, about
twelve inches long and an inch wide, with a buckle on one
end and buckle holes punched in the other. About one inch
from the buckle should be fitted, under the lap passing around
the buckle, a ring or D stitched in nicely. The edges of this
strap should be dressed down smooth; or much better, cover
the part coming in contact with the foot with a piece of
soft leather. This strap is intended to buckle around the foot
below the fetlock. Into the ring fasten the end of a strap
or web fourteen feet long and an inch and a half wide.
Buckle the short strap around the near fore foot below the
etlock, then pass the long strap over the belly-band on the




TRAINING IN THE TROT.              69
near side back to the wagon, and hold as a rein. This gives
control of the foot- at will, by which the horse can be disabled
and disconcerted. instantly, while driving. If the horse
attempts to kick, simply pulling the foot up throws lim off his
balance. He can neither kick or run back, and if he attempts
to go ahead it must be on three legs, in a manner that makes
resistance quite limited. It is especially valuable when training colts to drive, by neutralizing the animal's power to resist
should he become frightened and attempt to kick or back.
The foot-strap is also valuable as a means of enabling control
of horses that will not submit to being rode, and is very
effective.
Trotting.
A good walking gait should be the foundation of the training. Continue this walking lesson until the colt is thoroughly
gentle and submissive, and has learned to walk with energy.
Now gradually let out on a moderate trot, holding up often,
gradually letting out a little faster, as the strength and education will bear, but never so as to cause fatigue.  Those
muscles that are brought most into use are most largely developed, and bear in mind also that a colt has neither the strength
or bottom of an old horse, to bear either much exertion, or to
be pushed in his gait, and cannot at once act the part of a fast
going, well trained horse.
Let this jogging be continued, gradually as there is ambition and the road is smooth and descending; but let out only
so fast, or to the point that the gait is held. even and square;
and at first should be pushed only a short distance, after which
pull back to a walk and speak encouragingly. This is to be
repeated, gradually going a little faster, but never to the point
of exhaustion, always encouraging with a kind word or two
after doing well. I would here caution against hitching the
colt to a heavy wagon or sulky. The weight must be reduced
as much as possible, and the better to facilitate the object,
always let the bursts of speed be on a smooth, slightly descending piece of road. By this precaution you will remove all
drag, and the horse is able to use all his powers to the best
possible advantage.
This careful driving and gradually teaching the animal to
push forward when commanded is to be continued, but how



70              TRAINING IN THE TROT.
ever promising, the risk should not be hazarded of trotting a
race, or a long distance, before the system is thoroughly
matured and hardened to bear prolonged exertion. The gait
of many fine trotters is ruined by too much haste and harshness in training. A horse has not his growth until five years
old, and should not be put to severe work before six or seven
years old. It is proved by experience that much greater age
is necessary to attain great speed. Flora Temple made her
fastest time of two minutes nineteen and three-quarter
seconds, when she was fifteen. years old, at Kalamazoo.
Dexter is constantly increasing his speed, we are informed, by
age and practice; and so it will be found with all the best
trotters. They were grown into great speed by careful, persevering work, by which the system is highly developed, the
muscles are strengthened and hardened, and useless foul matter
that would obstruct the free action of the heart and lungs, and
increase the weight, is removed.
Should the horse break when pushed in his gait, he should
not be pulled up too suddenly, which would slacken his speed.
Rather encourage him to go faster, and by gently and firmly
pulling right and left bring him to thetrot. The horse has
now no disposition to resist control, and he must be taught to
rely upon with confidence, as well as yield submission to the
control and restraint of the bit.
To Force on the Trot.
There are many promising steppers that will break and run,
and will not come down to work again, when much excited;
and unless there is power to prevent such a habit and force on
the trot, the horse cannot be relied upon in a race, at perhaps
the very instant pushing is necessary. There is not power to
do this by the bit, and consequently horses that step freely in
private become foolish and unreliable when urged in company
with other horses. There is but one way of overcoming this
trouble, and that is by the use of the following means, the
conception of which has been original with myself, and
brought to the notice of trainers by me for several years, and
has proved in skillful hands a valuable adjunct, to the end of
making flighty, nervous horses come down to fast, reliable
going.




TRAINING THE TROTTER.              71
Have made first four straps
long enough to go around
the hind legs above the                  <    
hocks, and from three quar- 
ters to an inch wide. Obtain
next two D's or rings, in
size to admit two each of
these straps to be run
through. Step in front of 
each hind leg and- buckle   -,- -
these straps around the leg,       e f 
X     )    Cure for Breaking.
one above and one below
the gambrel, the ring or D in front, bringing the straps to an
acute angle. Put on the head a light well-fitting halter.
Attach a strap to this, which must be in part double to regulate the angle, and must be long enough to extend from the
head to the back edge of the girt. On the end is to be
attached a small, nice, easy running pulley, fitted to run a
half-inch cord. The strap is to pass back from the halter,
between the legs, over the belly-band, just back of which
must come this pulley. Take next a piece of firm, hard cotton
or hemp cord, from three-eighths to half an inch in size. \Run
it through the pulley to the center, and tie the ends into the
D's or rings attached to the hind legs; the whole to be so
regulated in length that the horse can walk or trot easily.
This is similar to the kicking straps described on page 45.
(See cut.)  One leg going forward to the degree that the opposite one goes back, brings no restraint on the cord or head,
but the instant both feet go back as in the act of running,
the cord is shortened, the head is drawn back, and the horse
is taught that he is helpless.  He soon learns this and
becomes afraid to break, though subjected to any reasonable
excitement. With this "rig " on, move the horse on a walk
until accustomed to it, which will usually require but a very
short time. Then let out on a moderate trot, and when
thoroughly accustomed to it pushing to a fast gait. This
must be repeated. In fact this arrangement should be kept
on until the horse is.made reliable. Should be driven and
thoroughly practiced with other horses, and excitement made
as if in a race. Of course all this requires ingenuity, patience
and care.
This will work best on some horses by attaching to the




72            SUGGESTIONS ON BREEDING.
collar, or around the neck. The restraint is simply more positive by, this change.
One gentleman in Ohio, two years since, came one hundred
and fifty miles to get this treatment of me, and in three
months afterwards he informed me that he had since sold a
mare for fifteen hundred dollars which he had bought for three
hundred and seventy-five dollars. She would break when in
the least excited, and could be made nothing of, though a fast
stepper.  He bought her, made the experiment, and in less
than a month had her down fine, and could hold her under the
whip regardless of yelling and the excitement of competing
horses.  This gentleman informed me he then had a horse
that promised equally good results by this treatment.
Breeding.
One of the primary points
of success is to start right,
and in no respect is this more
essential than in breeding.
raise good horses, good.horses
must be bred froml.  Many
farmers who are otherwise
are singularly thoughtless and
imprudent in this. If a mare
is broken down and unfit for
labor, no matter how coarse,
badly formed, or what the
Intelligent and Gentle.
Intelligent an Gentle evidence of constitutional unsoundness, she is reserved to breed from. Again the cheapest
horse, no matter how coarse if sleek and fat, is selected and
employed to breed from. The most ignorant farmer is particular to select the largest and soundest potatoes, the cleanest
wheat and oats, for seed, etc. He has learned this is true
economy. Yet there seems to be the most utter disregard of
this law of prudence in the breeding of horses and farm stock
in general. During my long experience before the public, I
have endeavored to impress upon farmers, when I could, that
this sort of economy is like paying a quarter for a chicken,
and giving a dollar to have it taken home.




HINTS ON BREEDING.                 73
It costs just as
much to raise a poor,
coarse blooded colt, as
a fine blooded one.
The cost of feeding
and care is really the
same, the only differthat of the use of the
horse. The first will
possibly sell when fivea
years old and trained
to harness, for from a
hundred to a hundred
and fifty dollars. The
otheris, breedings worth                 from
horses is wso muh fa d m    Dull and Treacherous.
three hundred to a
thfosand, and possibly more.  The first will scarcely sell for
the cost of feeding and care. The second ensures a large
profit, and this for a little additional first cost. And then the
satisfaction of having fine valuable animals that can go along
if necessary, able
to do any kind of
work easily, and
saleable for a larger price, is a source
of no ordinary
pleasure and eucouragement, if./P/''//'',,',";"~  ~from no other feeling than that of
contributing so
largely to increased economy and
wealth. The fact
Naturally Sensitive and Shy.  pi or,  ng ond
horses is so much a detriment, that it would be a damage to
any one to be compelled to breed from such stock, if given
for the purpose. If you wish to raise horses, select good sized,
well-formed, sound, fine blooded, good stepping and good
colored mares, even though at an extra cost. The stallion
4




74                HINTS ON BREEDING.
should be free from all taint of hereditary disease. Spavin,
ringbone, splints, poll evil, heaves, broken wind, contraction
of the feet, weak eyes or blindness, are more or less constitutional; consequently there will be predisposition to such.
Strong characteristics and constitutional vigor should be undoubted. This is of course in a general sense.
To be successful in breeding any particular variety of
horses requires first decision as to the purpose for which infended. To be particular requires first, intention as to purpose
for which intended. If heavy draft horses, evenly trotting
roadsters, or ponies are required, select both dam and sire with
special reference to the kind of stock wanted. If the mare is
light boned or defective, select a heavier boned horse, one that
possesses the contrast of greater strength or better points in
that respect. But to ensure much certainty of what you would
have, the mare and horse should be as nearly the type desired
as possible, though not related. I would be very particular
about disposition and intelligence. The head should be broad
between the eyes, muzzle small, short or middling short from
eyes to ears. The smaller and rounder the eyes, the more
positive will be the temper. (See cuts.) To have a horse
sensitive, intelligent, courageous, and naturally docile, there
must be large brain, the eye must be large, standing well out,
and mild in expression.
Of course it is understood that BAD TREATMENT WILL SPOIL
THE BEST TEMPERED HORSES, AND GOOD TREATMENT WILL
MAKE GOOD SAFE ANIMALS OF THE WORST.
The Miare.
The mare is said to go with foal eleven months or three
hundred days; but it is not uncommon for mares to have
fully developed foals in much less time, and in many instances
mares have been known togo four or five weeks beyond this
time. Time should be so arranged in putting mares, that the
colts will come at a time when there is some grass, as the
mare will do better not to be confined to dry feed.. The
virgin mare, or one that has not had a colt, for one season,
must be put when she is found in season.' The mare that
has had a colt will be found in season, and should be put on
the eighth'or ninth day after foaling; some prefer the eighth,
others the eleventh. Good judges claim that it is dangerous
to go'beyond the tenth, as the mare is apt to come off her




HINTS ON BREEDING.                 75
heat soon after, and if allowed to go to a later period, the
sucking of the colt is likely to reduce the mare too much to
allow conception to take place, and thus a year's service of
the breeder is lost.
After putting a mare the days for trial are the ninth after
service, the seventh after this, the fifth after this again.
Some commence again, commencing with the ninth day and
follow up as before, making forty-two days. Twenty-one
days being the period elapsing between a mare's going out of
heat, and coming in again, making her periodical term thirty
days. Twenty-one days is claimed to be sufficient to prove
a mare.
After conception, the mare, if allowed to go free' will stand
by a fence or tree in a partially dormant position until after
the heat passes off. If at this time she is overworked or
frightened, she will be likely to cast the conception, and will
require to be served again.
After the mare has been a few weeks with foal, moderate
work will not only do no injury, but will be of service to her,
but at no time when she is with foal must she be placed in a
situation where she will be at all likely to receive severe
jolts, kicks, or any other violence. Another great preventive
to conception, is turning mares out with string proud or badly
castrated horses, as they are a cause of positive annoyance to
them, and greatly endanger the certainty of conception.
A fine mare was put to a horse, she was proved on the
regular trial day, and showed all the signs of conception.
Three weeks after being served she stood quietly by a fence,
and the owner coming up, thinking her sick, started her suddenly. The fright so shocked her nervous system that she
sickened, lay down and cast the embryo. Another in the
same neighborhood aborted from a horse teasing her.
A gentleman put a mare that had bred, several colts, and
after being served to the horse she was illowed to run in a
pasture adjoining one in which a string proud horse was kept.
She was teased by him, and the consequence was she had no
colts for two years. The cause of mischief was finally mistrusted, the mare was put in another field away from the
horse, and she did not fail to breed afterwards.
It is a well-known fact also, that if a mare is near food
she likes, and is denied being given some of it, there is danger of abortion being produced. I might enumerate a great
many cases illustrative of the fact that causes in themselves




76               HINTS ON BREEDING.
slight may produce abortion. Much care is necessary. Persons owning mares that have failed to conceive, should be
unusually cautious, as mares having aborted once, are predisposed to do so sometimes from the most trifling causes.
It is a noticeable fact, also, that subjecting the mare to
abuse, or great fear from any cause, affects the character of
the colt powerfully.
Calling the attention of a class to these causes of mischief,
one of the gentlemen corroborated my assertions by making
the following statement: He and a neighboring farmer owned
two cows. His was extremely wild and intractable; the
other was very gentle. The informant said he treated his
cow with 6are and kindness. The man owning the gentle
cow was in the habit of making his dog drive her up to milk,
the dog causing her to run and be much excited. The cows
had fine bull calves. The owner of the wild cow bought the
calf of the other, and in time broke them to work, and he
said that the barking of a dog or any noise, would make the
steer he bought act wild and foolish; that he was naturally
wild and untamable, while the other, which he raised himself,
from the wildest animal, was as gentle as any steer.
I could refer to many interesting instances of colts showing the marked effects of abuse and excitement on the mother.
This is not to be wondered at, since it.is seen that the brain
controls and regulates the action of the developing brain and
nervous system of the fcetus or colt. Such causes should be
carefully guarded against.
A stallion of a known vicious character, should not be
bred from. The horse should be in vigorous health, and this
implies that he has been subjected to moderate but regular
exercise, during the season. A horse, however, that is driven
and hurried from place to place, over-heated perhaps, and
made to cover from three to seven mares, should be regarded
as unsafe. They are not sure, and the progeny of such are
liable to lack vitality.
After the colt comes, the mare should be allowed to stand
idle for three or four weeks, until she gets her milk and has
time to regain her strength; and the foal also requires time
to acquire strength. It is injurious for the colt to run with
the dam on hard roads, to an extent at least that would strain
or exhaust. Above all other times in the life of the horse,
at this period, and during the first winter, bad treatment is




HINTS ON BREEDING.                 77
most injurious. The mare and colt should be well fed, and
protected from storms. The theory of working a mare hard,
and half starving the colt, is the poorest kind of economy,
since the mare needs generous feed and rest, to renew her
strength and make her milk, by which of course the colt is
nourished and made to grow. When size and strength will
indicate that it is time to wean, which is usually in five or
six months, put the colt in a quiet pasture, away from the
mare, where it should be closely looked after. A little oats,
(better if bruised,) should be given daily.
The conclusion of careful breeders is, that it is much better
for a colt to run in pasture, than to be confined in a stable.
If the colt is intended for farm use, castration may be performed when six months old; if, however, the withers are
light, it should be postponed until the head and neck fills up
to the degree required, and this may require from one to two
years, or even more. If the head is large and heavy, early
castration is advisable. Colts should be generously fed, and
protected from  the inclemency of the weather in winter.
They should be treated gently. May be broken early to
harness, if treated gently and with care. This, however, is
hazardous, as there is danger of over-driving young colts if
they are driven at all. Many seem to take pride in trials to
which they subject two or three years old colts. It is not what
they can do, but what they ought to be required to do.
To become well posted on this interesting subject, the
reader should get the works of different authors. A little
money employed for books on this as well as kindred subjects,
will be found to be wisely used, but they should be read carefully. The limit of my space, even if more competent to
develop this subject, will not admit of more than a few general remarks.
Feeding.
Hay, corn fodder, oats and corn, constitute the principal
food of horses in this country. Hay and oats in the Northern States, fodder and corn in the South. The food should
be in quality and quantity to impart strength, vitality and
elasticity, and this requires some discrimination and care, as
the food should be harmonized both to the condition, and the
severity of the labor to which the horse is subjected. As a
rule, the stomach should not be distended with food when




78                 HINTS ON FEEDING.
prolonged, energetic effort is desired, as the heart and
lungs would thereby be much impeded in their action, and
congestion and rupturing of or enlarging of the air cells of
the lungs may result. This is to be especially guarded
against in the feeding of hay. Greedy eaters can and-will
gorge themselves by eating so much hay as to be unfit for
active labor, and is usually shown to result in heaves or
broken wind. Heaves are always found in the teamsters' or
carters' stables, where there is no care in feeding. This disease is always found among horses of the above class, but
never found among racing horses, from the fact that the
utmost prudence and care is used in selecting the food, and
feeding in smaller quantities, or in adapting the food more
perfectly to the wants of the system.
It has been demonstrated beyond doubt that the reason
horses improve so much in wind by eating prairie hay is, that
it is so coarse that horses cannot eat it fast enough to overload the stomach. The quantity of hay should be carefully
regulated, and never as much given as the horse will eat if
at all voracious. The majority of owners pack a large rack
full, allowing either liberty to eat too much, or making it
unpalatable and unhealthy, by being breathed upon. From
eight to ten pounds is about the average quantity for an ordinary roadster to be allowed in twenty-four hours, more or
less, according to size, the kind of work, and the quantity of
grain given. Dusty or mouldy hay should not be fed, as it
is liable to produce various forms of disease.
All food should be clean, and in quality perfect. Hay is
most perfect when it is about a year old. Horses would perhaps
prefer earlier, but it is neither so wholesome nor so nutritious,
and may purge. When it is a year old it should retain much
of its green color and agreeable smell.* The blades of corn
pulled and cured in the summer are unquestionably much
better than hay. I should certainly prefer this kind of fodder
to any kind of hay, for fine horses. It is strange that it is
not prized more highly in the North.
Oats make more muscle than corn. Corn makes fat and
warmth. Hence, the colder the weather, the more corn may
be given, and the harder the work, the more oats.  Oats
should be a year old, heavy, dry and sweet. iew oats will
* NOTE 1.-In packing or stacking hay, salt should be slightly sprinkled
through it so as to destroy insects. It also aids in preserving it bright, and
makes it more palatable and healthy for the horse.




HINTS ON FEEDING.                 79
weigh from ten to fifteen per cent. more than old ones; but
the difference is principally water. New oats are said to be
more difficult to digest, and when in considerable quantity are
apt to cause flatulency and derangement of the stomach and
bowels. The same may be said of corn. If not sound and
dry, it may be regarded even much more dangerous than oats,
and should not be fed. Doing so will be at the hazard of the
consequences above mentioned.
The quantity of oats given daily may vary from eight to
sixteen quarts. If the horse is large, and the work is severe,
a little more may be given. Corn should be fed in the ear,
and like oats must be regulated-in quantity to the size and
labor of the animal; from five to twelve good sized ears are a
feed. I give a larger proportion of feed at night, and less in
the morning and noon. There is ample time for digestion
during the night. There is not during the clay, if the labor is
severe. Experience proves that some mildly cooling laxative food should be occasionally given. A bran mash, made
by pouring boiling water on eight or ten quarts of wheat
bran, covered over until cool and fed at night, from once to
three times a week, is the finest and best.
Carrots are a good laxative and alterative before frost, but
are too cold and constipating during cold weather. They
may be fed in October, November and December, but in the
Northern States not later. (I am governed by the judgment
of one of the best veterinary surgeons in the United States,
based upon careful and critical observation of effects on a
large number of horses, on this point.) I feed Irish potatoes,
from one to three quarts, with the usual quantity of grain,
from two to three or four times a week, and would recommend their use. Think their value cannot be over-estimated.
Feeding a small quantity of roots and giving bran mashes,
keeps the bowels open and the system in a uniform, healthy
condition. Without them constipation is probable, and this
is one of the primary causes of diarrhcea, colic, or inflammation of the bowels. If it is desired to make a horse fat in a
short time, feed corn meal and shorts, with cut straw, to
which add a pint of cheap molasses. Nothing like this for
recruiting and filling up a horse that is out of sorts or poor.
If the horse eats too fast, put a few round stones in the feed
box. He must now pick the food from among the stones,
and thus he is compelled to eat slowly.




80                HINTS ON WATERING.
If the horse is exhausted, or when sufficient time cannot
be allowed for him to eat and partially digest a full meal, he
may be greatly refreshed by a draught of warm gruel, or in
summer, of cold water containing a small quantity of meal.
To give some idea of the routine of feeding and watering
when great care is necessary, I include the system of feeding
and watering Mr. Bonner's famous trotting horse, Dexter.
"At six every morning, Dexter has all the water he wants,
and two quarts of oats. After eating, he is'walked' for half
an hour or more, then cleaned off, and at nine has two quarts
more of oats. If no drive is on the card for afternoon, he is
given a half to three-quarters of an hour of gentle exercise.
At one o'clock he has oats again, as before, limited to two
quarts.
"From three to four, he is driven twelve to fifteen miles;
after which he is.cleaned off and rubbed thoroughly dry.
"He has a bare swallow of water on returning from the
drive, but is allowed free access to his only feed of hay, of
which he consumes from five to six pounds.
"If the drive has been a particularly sharp one, he is
treated as soon as he gets in, to a quart or two of oat meal
gruel; and when thoroughly cooled, has half a pail of water
and three quarts of oats, with two quarts of bran moistened
with hot water.
"Before. any specially hard day's work or trial of his
speed, his allowance of water is still more reduced."
Watering.
If a large quantity of cold water is taken into the stomach
while the system is agitated and sensitive, by the circulation
being so increased as to open the pores of the skin freely, it
is liable to so chill the stomach as to derange the circulation
and close the pores of the skin, and thus excite some one of
the common alimentary derangements of colic or inflammation of the bowels. Hard water, especially cold well water,
is more liable to cause mischief in this way than soft water.
Hard water will derange some horses, so much as to show an
almost immediate effect of causing the hair to look rough or
stare, the appetite deranged, if not indeed preceded by colic
or inflammation of the bowels; also, horses'that are raised
and worked in the country, where the water is strongly impregnated with lime, are troubled a good deal with intestinal cal



HINTS ON WATERING.                81
culi, i. e., stone in the bladder. Hence soft water should be
given, if convenient; and if well water, especially while
warm, it should either have the chill taken off or be given
very sparingly.
The best time to water is about half an hour before feeding. While driving, the rule should be little and often.
None, or only a swallow or two, should be given at the close of
a drive, until cool. If very warm, the horse should be walked
moderately where there is not a current of air to strike him,
from ten to thirty minutes, as may be found necessary. If,
then, any danger is apprehended, the chill should be taken off
the water if very cold and given sparingly a few swallows at
a time. The common custom is to give about a half bucket
of water. The safest course would be to give less and repeat.
The rule should be, for ordinary use, to give small quantities
often during the day, and the animal to pursue his journey or
labor immediately after. If allowed to stand, the system may
be chilled. The absorbents are closed, which is the common
cause of Laminitis or Founder, although this disease may
not develop itself until twelve or twenty-four hours afterwards,
and any cause which will chill the system-either cold winds
-or cold water-while the animal is warn, will be almost sure
to produce the above disease.
d %




TEACHING TRICKS.
Do not hurry a horse too fast in his training. If you undertake to teach too much, or too fast in the start, or indeed at
any time, you only confuse or discourage. Do only so much
as the horse can comprehend, and make daily progress.
Teaching to Follow.
If it is desired to simply teach the horse to follow promptly
with halter or bridle on, apply the war bridle, (small loop;)
when he comes round promptly, stand off a short distance
and say, "Come here, sir." If he does not come to you,
give a sharp pull, gradually changing positions and going a
little farther. If he comes to you promptly, caress him; if
not, pull sharply, repeating in this way until you can make
him come to you promptly, in any direction, at the word.
To Make Follow with the Whip.
The simplest and easiest way of doing this, is to work up
sharply with the war bridle, and when the horse comes to you
promptly, take a short, blunt whip, step up to the shoulder,
and while holding the bridle loosely in the left hand, pass the
whip gently over the shoulder, and tap lightly with the end
on the off side of the head. This will annoy the horse and
cause him to move the head a little from it, toward you;
instantly stop and caress, then repeat the tapping again;
should he attempt to run from you, hold him by the bridle.
Repeat in this way until the horse will step toward you
promptly. Then touch the whip over the hips and say,
"Come, sir." If he comes up to you, or shows the least disposition to do so, caress, and so continue until he will come
up promptly. Now step a little sidewise and ahead and say,




TEACHING TRICKS.                83
"Come, sir." If he should step after you, caress, if not,
touch the lash over the hips. In a short time the horse will
learn to step to you, and follow promptly. When he will do
this, stand him in a corner of the room, stand a little in front
of him and touch him lightly with the whip on the fore-legs
and say, "Come here, sir."  At the least intimation of coming, stop and caress. Then repeat, touching with the whip.
If he moves to you a little, stop and caress, and in this way
repeat until he will come to you promptly. Then get a little
farther from him and repeat in the same manner until he will
learn to hurry up to you, to get away from the whip. Should
he bolt away, put on the bridle, and hold the end in the left
hand. You can now hold him by the bridle when he
attempts to run, until lie finds he cannot get away, and will
come up promptly.
This lesson should be made very thorough before there is
an attempt to take the horse out of doors, and then in a small
yard. If this is not convenient, put on the bridle, having
good length of cord, and hold in the left hand loosely.
If the horse is of a bad character, the following method
may be used: Turn the horwse into a room or small yard well
enclosed. Provide yourself with a good bow whip. The
horse will feel uneasy and look around at you, and then perhaps for some place by which to escape. Walk up to him,
and as he runs into a corner apply the lash sharply under his
flanks, following him up, making the whip sting keenly around
the hind legs. When he stops or turns his head toward you,
stop instantly, reach out the hand, at the same time approaching gently. Should he run or turn around to kick, whip
instantly as before, and so continue until you can approach
and caress the head and neck a little. Then say, "Come,
sir," at the same time touching the whip lightly over the
hips. If he comes, or shows the least disposition to do so,
caress and speak encouragingly. If he runs, whip as before,
and so repeat until the horse will come up promptly when
touched by the whip.
As the object is to make the horse honest in following, it
is necessary to make him feel that you whip him only for
resistance, encouraging and flattering for every intimation of
obedience, until he realizes his safety from the whlip to be in
coming to you.




84                TEACHING TRICKS.
To Lie Down.
Tie the bridle reins into a knot back of the neck. Throw
your strap over the back, under the body, and tie to the near
foot, below the fetlock. Now pass the right hand well over
the back and take a short hold of the strap. Cause the horse
to step toward you and pull the foot up. Then pass the left
hand around the reins and pull back and down upon them in
such a manner as to turn the head a little to the off-side, at
the same time pulling down steadily but firmly on the strap
over the back with the right hand. As the horse goes down,
gradually pull the near rein, so as to bring the head to the
left, at the same time pressing down and from you firmly.with
the right, until the horse will lie down.' Pass the end of the
strap now through the ring of the bit and draw through
gently, step over the neck, and as the horse attempts to get
up, pull him back, until he lies quiet. Rub and caress him,
and after lying a few minutes, say, "Get up, sir."  Repeat
in this way for a few times until the horse will lie down
readily. Then while holding him on or near the knee with
the strap, hit him on the shin of tile other with a little whip,
until he will bring it under and lie down. After awhile he
can be made to come on his knees and lie down by simply
pulling the head down a little and hitting the shins with the
whip, at the same time saying, "Lie down, sir," repeating
until the horse will lie down to the motion of the whip.
This is about the easiest and most practical way of teaching
a horse to lie down.
To Sit Up.
When the horse will lie down promptly, put on him a
common collar, and while being down take two pieces of rope,
or anything suitable, about ten feet each in length. Tie the
ends around the hind feet, carry them forward between the
fore legs and bring them once around the collar. Now step
on his tail, take the bridle reins in the right hand, while you
hold the ends of the ropes firmly in the left. Give a little
jerk on the reins and say, "Get up, sir." When the horse
throws out the forward feet and springs to raise himself on
the hind feet, he finds himself unable to complete the effort,
on account of the hind feet being tied forward under him,
and so he brings himself in a sitting position. Instantly step




TEACHING TRICKS.                 85
forward, holding the ropes firmly, rub and caress the head
and neck a little for a few seconds, then as you see the effort
to keep up becoming tiresome, let loose and say, "Get up,
sir." By repeating in this way a few times the horse will
soon learn to sit up when commanded without being tied.
To lMake a Bow.
Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and
fore-finger, stand before, but a little to the left, of your horse,
and prick him on the breast lightly. This produces the sensation of a fly biting, to relieve which he will bring down his
head, which you will accept as yes, and reward for by caressing and feeding as before. Then repeat, and so continue until
he will bring his head down the moment he sees the least
motion of the hand toward his breast, or you can substitute
some signal which he will understand readily.
To Say No.
Stand near the left shoulder, holding the pin in your hand,
with which prick him lightly on the withers, which will cause
him to shake his head. You then caress as before, and so
repeating, until he will shake his head at the least indication
of touching him with the pin; you can train your horse so
nicely in this way in a short time as to cause him to shake
his head or bow by merely turning the hand a little, or
moving it slightly toward him.
To Kiss You.
Teach him first to take a piece of apple out of your hand.
Then gradually raise the hand nearer your mouth, at each
repetition, until you require him to take it from your mouth,
holding it with the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss
you. He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth;
first to get the apple, but finally, because commanded to do
so. Simply repeat until the horse understands the trick
thoroughly.




86                TEACHING TRICKS.
Teaching a Horse to Dance.
Put on the war bridle; hold the cord some four or five
feet from the horse's head, and with a whalebone whip tap
him on the shin or ankle until he lifts his foot, then caress
him, and do the same with the other, making him raise first
one foot, then the other, then stop and caress. Next, make
him raise them several times, until he moves his whole body
by the motion of the whip to the time of music. Caress and
encourage frequently.
Teaching a Horse to Waltz.
After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his
chest and fasten the bridle-reins to it, the left rein much the
tightest, bringing his head well round to the left side. Then
make him move forward, when he follows his -head, and every
time as he is turning his head from you give him a sharp cut
with the whip, which will make him jump round quickly until
his head comes around to you again. Then you should caress
and encourage him by talking kindly, patting and feeding him.
He will then be slower to move his head from you, but you
must continue with the whip every time the horse's hind parts
are toward you and his head from you, caressing every few
minutes until he understands to move at the motion of the
whip. Patient and careful practice in this way will make
your horse prompt and graceful in his movements.




SHOEING.
THE hoof of the horse, in a state of nature, is adapted only
to a grassy surface. Here the natural wear and tear of the
hoof is just compensated by its growth. When the wear is
made greater than this, by driving on hard roads, the horn is
worn down so rapidly that the vascular part of the foot would
soon be exposed, and the horse would in consequence become
lame. To prevent such a result, much attention has been
given to the'art of protecting the feet from increased wear
and injury.
The first step towards shoeing horses was by fastening a
sort'of sandal to the foot by means of straps or strings, and
as experience brought improvements, plates of metal were used,
but fastened to the foot
in the same clumsy manher. Itis supposed fet h
plates of metal, or shoes, 
were used and attache    ud     d    I i n    k 
to the feet in this way    prov     t     m, or 
for nearly a thousand
years before it  was found
practicable  to  fasten
them with nails. The
first effort to  fastenh 
shoes to the feet by
nailingr as by driving the nails own through the crust and
shoe and riveting on the under side. It is not known by
whom or exactly when this improvement was made, or when
the: present system was introduced.
The Icelanders form a piece of ram's horn into shape, and
fasten it to the foot by means of horn pins. The antlers of
deer are used for the same purpose, according to the accounts
of travelers, by people of other remote regions. In Japan
sandals of plaited straw are used, fastened with straw bands




88                 REMARKS ON SIHOEING.
around the fetlocks. The Arabians use a simple plate of
iron, with a hole in the center, nailed on.
Shoeing includes, first, the duty of preparing the feet for the
shoes; second, forming the shoes to the feet, so as to be most
exact in size, weight and fitting to that part of the hoof, and
that only, that is shown by experience to be best able to bear
the pressure and strain of the shoe without injury, and preserve its form and bearing best; and, third, that when injury
and lameness results, the cause, at least, should be removed,
and a reasonable effort made to restore the parts to a state of
health.
That part of the foot which is visible, and to which the
shoe is fastened, is called the hoof.  It is simply a thin covering of horn to the delicate but powerful mechanism     of the
internal structure of the foot, and for convenience of description is divided into three parts, the wall, sole and frog.
THE FOOT.
(No. 2.)                  (No. 1.)
a a The frog.   a The external crust seen at the quarter.
b  The sole.   b The coronary ring. c The little horny
c The bars.   plates lining the crust. d The same cond d The crust.  tinued over the bars. e e The two concave
surfaces of the inside of the horny frog.
f That. which externally is the cleft of the
frog. g The bars. h The rounded part of
the heels, belonging to the frog.
There are other minor points, a full description of which is
not essential to our object here, such as the toe, heels, bars,
commissures, &c. The outer crust, or wall, is a simple piece
of horn, of from a quarter to three-eighths of an inch in thickness, increasing in thickness from  the quarters to the toe,
where it is thickest and grows fastest, in order to bear the
increased wear upon this part.    If this horn were cut into
and examined with a microscope, it would be found to be




STRUCTURE OF THE FOOT.               89
made up of a large number of little tubes, or hairs, cemented
together; that they can be split apart like the fibers of wood,
and that the horn increases in hardness and density from the
inner surface to that of the outer, the inner surface being
quite soft, while the outer surface is hard and smooth.
(No. 3.) Interior of a Healthy Foot.
(No. 4.) Sole of a Healthy Foot.
If we now look at the sole, we will find it from one-eighth
to three-sixteenths of an inch thick, a little arched, of a dense
yielding texture, joined firmly to the lower and inner edge of
the wall. At the center, occupying the space between the
heels, and extending well forward to a point towards the toe,
is a softer and thicker formation of horn, admitting of great
elasticity, which is the frog. (See cut No. 2.) Between the
frog and its connection with the sole, on each side, is a little
strip of hard horn, extending from the heels forward, called
bars, which are a continuation of
the outer wall. From the outside
there seems to be a deep notch, on
each side, cut down between the
bars and frog, which are called commost admirable   arrangement for
strength and elasticity. The frog,
being of a soft, elastic nature, acts
as. a cushion in protecting the sensitive parts over it from being bruised
or injured, while the direction of the
bars make them braces for keeping         (No. 5.)
the heels in place. Connecting the   a Coronet.
internal parts of the foot with the   b Sensible lamellae.




90              STRUCTURE OF THE FOOT.
hoof, is a strong muscular structure, arranged so as to affoi
great expansion, as well as strength.  That connecting wit
the wall of the hoof is named sensible laminae, and th;
between the coffin-bone and sole sensible sole and frog.  Th
muscular structure has mingled through it a complete 
network of nerves and bloodvessels. Hence we see that
in any way producing pressure or restraint upon the
wall or sole, so as to bruise
this soft structure, will cause. i  inflammation, and result in 
soreness, change of structure
and lameness, to a greater or
less extent, in proportion to 
the extent of the injury.          L
The healthy foot is the
(No. 6-)   best model for guidance, and 6
View of the Arte- the object should be in preries of the Frog paring the foot for the shoe, 
and Sole, injected.          to simply bring it back to
its natural form, and bear- View of Vesselsofth
ing.  If the toe is too long, or the heels too  Foot, injected.
high, or there is an unusual accumulation of  1. Plantar vein.
old horn on the sole, remove so much as. Plantar arterth
will restore the foot to its natural propor- coronary substanc
nds earing,                               and lamine.
tions and bearing.                          4. Posterior divi
If the shoes have been on a month, cut sion of plantar ar
tery.
away the horn grown more or less, accord-   5. Perpen dicula
ing to the length of time the shoes have branch.
6. Anastomosi,,
been on and the quantity of horn grown. with opposite plan
If the foot is in a healthy condition, it is tar artery.
seldom necessary to interfere with the sole and frog.  The sole
and frog throw off horn by a natural process of expoliation;
but sometimes the shoe extends so close and so far over the
sole as to prevent this old horn from either wearing or scaling
off. When this is the case, it should be dressed out, particularly at the heels, at the angles formed between-the bars and
crust. The buttress is usually so large and square edged as
to make it unsuitable for doing this. Even with the greatest
care, it is difficult, with such an instrument, to prevent cutting




HINTS ON SHOEING.                  91
away too mnuch at some points, while
there cannot be enough cut away at
others. An English shave, with the
end turned back, like that-'of an instrument with which to mark boards,
is just the thing for this purpose.
While the object, in the first place,
should be to reduce the hoof to its
natural size, care should be used not
to cut away too much of the wall;
for, bear in mind, cutting away too       (o0. 8.)
much must bring the shoe against A Sound Fore-foot, prepared
th3 sole, and forces driving the nails  for the Shoe.
too deep into the wall of the hoof, if  a The heel of the crust b
not into the vascular part, inside, The toe cut out to receive the
clip. c c The quarters of the
which would not only cause lame- crust. c  The bares f they
ness, but be liable to induce the should be left, with the full
bt b a,,   u. t frog between them. e e The
secretion of matter, and very serious angles between the heel and
-consequehces would follow.   (See bars, where corns appear.
consequences would  lff The concave surface of the
Causes of Lameness.)  And besides, toe. g g The bulbous heels.
As The cleft.
forcing so many nails into this thin  T  cleft
horn weakens it so much that by a few repetitions of such
shoeing it becomes difficult to nail on shoes with any certainty
of being held to the foot very long, and, of course, the more
re-nailing the more the mischief is increased.
The bearing surface should be leveled down carefully ani
left a little higher than the sole, so that there can be no bearing of the sole upon the shoe. If the foot is flat and will not
bear this, then the shoe must be lowered inside of the part
coming under the wall, so that the sole will not touch it. No
definite rule can be given by which to explain just how much
to cut away, or the limit. If the heels are strong and upright,
they should be cut down so that the bearing will be level and
the hoof appear natural. (See cut 8.)
The next aim is to form and fit the shoe so as to approximate it to the size and bearing of the foot and work of the
horse. If the hoof is thin shelled and the horse is not worked
much, the shoe should be light; but if the work is hard, more
weight will be necessary.  No general rule will apply here.
The sheer is to understand that if the foot is properly prepared
as directed, the shoe must be made big enough to just come
out even with the edge of the hoof from the toe to the turn of




92                 HINTS ON SHOEING.
the heels, becoming a little wider at the extremity of the heels,
for as the foot enlarges by growth, the shoe is brought forward under the heels until it loses its original proportion and
becomes too short and narrow, to allow for which the shoe
should be as much wider and longer than the foot at the heels
(about a quarter of an inch) as it is supposed the foot will
grow in the time it is intended to keep the shoes on before
being re-set. The bearing surface of the shoe should be perfectly level, and only so much of the shoe as comes under the
wall of the hoof should touch the foot.
Either the foot must be prepared co that
the shoe cannot come down to the sole,
or that part of the shoe coming inside
the wall of the hoof must be so hammered down that the sole cannot possibly touch the shoe. (See cuts 8 and 9.)
This requires being exact, no guessing or coming "pretty near" the thing
(No. 9.) Shoe inner s- and nailing on. The shoe should be so
(No. 9.)   Shoe, inner sur       -,
face beveled to prevent fitted that when laid on a level surface
contactwithSoleofFoot. every part of the bearing surface would
touch, and it should fit equally well to the foot.
If the shoe as usually fitted is examined, the bearing surface
(No. 10.) Shoe Properly Fitted.
at the heels will be found concave or the inner edge of each
heel much the lowest; not only this, but often the heels are
carried back too far, or the'shoe is so wide that the heels rest
on the seating inside of where fitted to support the heels.




HINTS ON SHOEING.                 93
It is evident that if the bearing surface at the heels is concave, there is a natural tendency as weight is thrown upon
the foot to have the heels crowded together.
With the foot properly prepared and the shoe properly fitted
to it, the next important consideration-is nailing it to the
hoof. As the hoof is continually growing and becoming proportionately larger than the shoe, this must be done if possible
so as not to bring lateral restraint upon the quarters, and this
implies attention to the location of the nail holes. If the
smith were to examine the thickness of the hoof of an ordinary
(No. 11.) Bearing Surface Level.
well-bred horse, he would perhaps be surprised at its thinness,
and he would see the importance, in the first place, of making
the holes near the edge well forward in the toe, and of not
putting the shoe so far under the shell as to compel his driving the nails too deeply into it, or of having the nails so large
as to split and shatter the hoof. If the nail holes are made
well into the shoe, and the shoe should be a little narrow or
short, and be set well under the hoof, the nails must be driven




9.4                HINTS ON SHOEING.
very near, or into the quick, which must result in serious
lameness or injury. Two points, therefore, must'be.kept in
view by the smith in punching the nail holes. First, making
them so far forward in the toe as to prevent needless restraint
upon the quarters.  Second, so near the edge of the shoe as
not to endanger driving the nails too deep in the crust.  The
nails should not be large, nor a greater number driven than is
barely necessary to retain the shoe.
It must be remembered that, at best, the hoof is greatly
shattered by the nails; that the horn is thickest at the toe,
(No. 12.) Ground Surface-Position of Nails.
and the nailing well back to the quarters not only exposes to
greater danger of pricking, but causes an injurious pressure
upon the heels. If the horse is not used much, and the heels
are rather square and upright, the quarters must be kept free.
Have the nail holes made well forward on both sides, three
on the inner and four on the outer side, or nail well back on
the outside quarter, but well forward in the toe i-nside. As




HINTS ON SHOEING.                  95
the foot now grows, the shoe will be carried to that side and
forward, leaving the inside quarter free, thereby making both
quarters as independent of the restraint of the shoe as it is
possible to do. Any increase in the number of nails to retain
the shoe more firmly must not imply freedom to drive them
back in the quarters. Let the holes be punched closer together
in the toe.  Care should be used not to file too deeply under
the clinches, as is common; and in finishing off, the file
should not be touched above the clinches, and below only
enough to round the toe a little. There is a penchant in most
smiths to improve the shape of the foot by rasping and filing
the whole surface to the hair. The outside of the hoof is much
more dense and hard than the inside, the small spaces between
the fibres of the horn are filled with a soft substance-the
better to prevent a too rapid evaporation of moisture. If the
whole surface of the hoof is rasped, the best part is not only
likely to be cut away, but too rapid evaporation takes place,
and the hoof is not only thereby weakened, but becomes dry,
hard and contracted.  If the horse is not used much, and
stands on dry plank, this condition must be produced.
(No. 13.)                        (No. 14.)
Foot properly shod, and a foot that has been rasped down too much, in order to
fit the shoe, which is too small for it.
There is a very grave fault in the fitting and nailing of
shoes, namely: if they happen to be too short, of setting
them well back from the toe, which not only necessitates
driving the nails so deep into the hoof as to prick and lame
the animal, but also destroys the proportion of the foot by
cutting down the toe too much.    (See cuts 13 and 14.)
Smiths seem to think it necessary to cut the hoof down to
the shoe, no matter how far under the shell it may be. This
is wrong, as the shoe is now pressing upon and nailed to the




96                HINTS ON SHOEING.
inside or soft part of the shell, which of itself leads to soreness and'derangement. (See cuts 9 and 10.) In the first
place the hoof should not be cut away too much in preparing
for the shoe, but should leave plenty of strong, hard horn,
through which to nail. In the second place, the shoe should
come out even with the hoof; and third, the nails should be
driven deep enough to hold firmly. Some shoers have a,.~
(No. 15.)                        (No, 16.)
Nails driven too straight.         How to nail the Shoe.
faculty of going from one extreme to the other by driving the
nails so near the outer edge of the crust that there is almost
certainty of breaking through. (See cuts 15 and 16.) Illustrative of this see cut 15; the hold of the nail is not deep
enough; whereas in 16 the nail is started deep and comes
out low, getting a good, strong hold, and not endangering
driving into the quick. There should be no effort to cut
down the hoof in any way that would weaken it, or destroy
its natural appearance and bearing.
Contraction of the Feet.
If we examine the foot in its natural, healthy state, it will
be found almost round, and very elastic at the heel. The
frog, broad, plump, and of a soft, yielding character.  The
commissures open and well defined, and the sole concave.
The outside of the crust, from the heel to the toe, increased
from a slight bevel to an angle of about forty-five degrees.
In a state of contraction the heels are narrow and high,
the commissures closed and the frog small, and from bad shoeing a marked change in size and form. Corns, or bruising of
the sole at the heels, or any difficulty causing lameness, is
induced by inflammation. Now, any cause by which the
sensible sole or muscular structure uniting the coffin-bone to
the wall of the hoof is bruised and inflamed, leads to either




DISEASES OF THE FEET.                97
decomposition and the formation of matter, thickening of
cartilage, or growth of unnatural bony matter.
The most common cause of inflammation, producing change
of structure and lameness, is contraction. It is evident that
the more horn is grown the wider and longer the foot becomes,
and the more cut away the narrower and shorter it is made.
If a shoe be fitted accurately to a foot after being trimmed
and prepared carefully, it would be found in a few weeks to
be much too short and narrow or too small for the same foot.
The foot is continually growing and losing its original proportions with the shoe, which in four or five weeks becomes
at least a quarter of an inch wider and longer than it was
when dressed. Now there must be not only special provision
made in nailing for this increased enlargement,- but the greatest care should be used not to permit any lateral, mechanical
pressure upon the quarters that would restrict their freedom.
It must be observed that shoeing first raises the frog
from contact with the ground, which, of itself, removes an
important auxiliary to health in the foot; second, that nailing
the shoe to the sides of the hoof brings direct restraint upon
the quarters with increased force, and to the degree that this
nailing is extended to the heels and the foot increases in size
by growth, is the foot contracted by the restraint thus unavoidably produced.
There' also is another cause of derangement requiring
special notice, namely: the bearing surface at the heels is
usually inclined inward, or the inside edge is much lower than
the outer edge, often quite or more than a sixteenth of an
inch, which alone is sufficient to cause serious contraction.
In addition to which the increased absorption of moisture,
induced both by inflammation and by keeping the feet dry,
tends directly to this end, since the dryer and harder horn
becomes, the more lessened in size.  Of course, if direct pressure is brought upon the foot by which the vascular structure
beneath the shell is bruised and inflamed, lameness and ultimate change of structure must ensue, which, if permitted,
may cause serious or even incurable lameness.
There is one peculiarity about contraction that seems to
puzzle even good practitioners, which is the increased growth
of the heels. The heels grow down rapidly, and the shell
becomes very thick, while the frog becomes small and hard.
If cut No. 16 is examined the sole will be seen to be
5




98              DISEASES OF THE FEET.
arched. Now it is evident if the quarters are pressed
together this bending of the sole upward is increased, bringing increased pressure upon the suspensory ligaments and
coffin-joint, and force the coffin-joint upwards and forward
against the hoof at its upper edge.
Now if you look at cut No. 5, you will discover an
artery passing down on each side of the leg. which divides
above the hoof into two branches, one forward around the
edge of the hoof, and another back to the heel, which again
throw off innumerable branches. - The office of these arteries
is to supply material for the growth of horn. Now the pressure induced upon the coffin-bone by the pressing of the sole
against it as before explained, forces the coffin-bone against
the upper edge of the hoof, and thus presses directly upon this
artery, thereby obstructing the flow of blood to this part, and
forcing it back into those supplying horn at the heels. Hence
the forward part of the hoof grows slowly and becomes thin,
while the heels grow down rapidly, becoming high and thick.
The first and important object in curing disease is, to
remove the cause. We must do more than this in the cureof contraction by removing the surplus horn accumulated and
applying mechanical pressure in such a way as to gradually
spread the foot back to its natural form and condition as it
will bear.
To do this we must first thoroughly soften the feet by poulticing. Next cut down the heels to within an eighth of an
inch or a little more of the line yielding horn of the sole,
trimming out the sole thoroughly. Cut down carefully between the bars and frog. If not careful you will cut through
and bring blood at the extreme of the heel, while.you have
not cut deep enough farther forward. Follow the curve of
the sole, aiming to cut out an average depth until the heels
will yield easily to a little pressure.
The next object is to gradually force the heels outward.
There are three ways of doing'this:
First, form the shoe of an equal thickness all the way
round, with nail holes punched well back in the heels, and fit
accurately to the foot, so that it will come out even with the
edge of the hoof. Now drive the nails carefully, so that they
will be deep enough into the horn to hold firmly without
endangering pricking, leaving the points stick down straight.
After all are driven down, pull them out again. Heat the




TREATING CONTRACTED FEET.              99
shoe and spread it about one-eighth of an inch, more or less
according to what the foot will bear, and put on again. Now,
drive the nails again, each a little at a time until driven home,
and clinch firmly. It is seen that the shoe must now exert an
outward pressure upon the heels equal to the increased'breadth of the shoe. Keep the foot reasonably soft. In a
few days or a week the clinches can be carefully drawn, the
nails pulled out, the shoe made wider and nailed as before,
which can be repeated so long as the nails will hold well.
A  simpler method is
that of the convex shoe,
(cut 17.) The foot is prepared as before, with the
difference of not cutting
away the bearing surface 
so much at the heels. The
shoe, instead of having the ji
bearing surface level,
should be made convex,
the outer edge from an
eighth to three-sixteenths 
of an inch lower than the
inner edge, running out. at 
the toe. This surface
should be filed down care-  (No. 17.) Convex Shoe for the cure of
Contr action.
fully, and so fitted to the          ottio
foot that the heels will rest on these inclined surfacea, the
shoe being a little wider than the heels, and nail on. Now
there is a continued slipping outward of the heels when weight
is thrown upon the foot. Remember one point here. Do not
commit the error of cutting down the heels very close. You
must have horn enough to keep the shoe from possibly coming
in contact with the sole. If it does, the.inner edge pressing
upon the sole forms a shoulder which will not only prevent
expansion, but bring pressure upon the yielding sole, bruising
the sensitive sole above, and acute lameness will result.
The third, and by far the best, is that of Tyrrel's patent shoe,
(cut 18.) By this shoe, if properly fitted and applied, the
foot can be expanded as little or as much as may be desired.
It will also enable expanding one or both heels as may be
desired, and is unquestionably the best form  of shoe ever
invented for the cure of contraction. The only difference




100              DISEASES OF TILE FEET.
there is in this shoe from the.common form is: first, the inside
edges of the heels are turned up into little clips; second, the
shoe is so cut out at each side of
the toe as to enable bending the
quarters outward, by putting the
tongs or a screw  between theheels and pressing them   outward. The clips at the heels
extending up inside of the bars
at the extreme of the heels press
the heels outward just so much
as the shoe is spread, which can
be done every few days at will
until the foot is expanded as
much as may be -desired. This
(No. 18:) Tyrrel's Patent Shoe for is the great consideration in the
the cure of Contraction.  cure of contractions so far as
mechanical pressure is concerned, and of all the shoes I have
seen for the purpose, this is the best, and in my judgment
is unrivaled.  With its use contraction can be cured in a
short time. This shoe has been thoroughly tested, and is
shown to be the best for the cure of contracted feet ever
brought into use. Gentlemen desiring shoes of this form,
with full instructions in relation to their application and permission of use, must address the owners, TYRREL & FERREN,
Batavia, New York.
This shoe is also the very best for the cure of splitting of
the hoof, as it enables pressure upon the quarters outward,
and thus keeps the'parts pressed together.
Corns
Appear in the angle of the hoof near the heel. They are
generally caused by the shoe being worn too long, causing
the shell of the hoof to grow over the shoe, which throws
the weight upon the sole, or the angles between the bar and
crust are not properly dressed out. If the descending heel
of the coffin bone meets with too much resistance by want of
elasticity in the sole at this place, the sensitive sole is liable
to be so bruised and injured as to'produce corns, which
are simply a contused wound of the sensitive sole. If of an
ordinary character, upon cutting away the horn, there will




TREATMENT FOR CORNS.               101
be found a red spot; if very bad, the color will be a dark
purple and deeper seated.
If in this condition it is neglected, matter may be formed, or
the inflammation may cause
the lateral cartilages which
are attached to the heels of           I      7
the coffin bone to become
ossified, or even the accumu- 
lation of large, bony deposits,
which would destroy the mobility of the foot and cause  (No. 19.)      (No. 20.)
considerable deformity.      New Corn.  Situation and appear
All pressure must be re-              alce of an old corn.
moved from the part.  First, dress down the part bruised
until quite thin. Put a little sulphur on, and burn in pretty
well with a hot iron, or put
on buttyr of antimony, which
will stimulate a healthy
growth of horn.
If there is much inflammation, poultice; and if there is
a cavity or the sensible sole   i.
is exposed, put on a little
pitch and tallow, over which
spread a little tow. Put on
the shoe so fitted there will         (No.21.)
be no pressure on the part.        Testingfor Corns.
To do this a bar shoe will often be necessary.  (See cut No.
22.)  The shoe should be re-set frequently until cured.
Quarter Crack.
When the hoof is dry and hard it is easily split. A piece
of glue when very dry splits and breaks very easily if
pounded upon, but if softened by moisture would only bend
and be bruised. The hoof partakes of the character of glue.
If very dry the fibres become dense and hard. If while the
feet are in this condition the horse is driven fast on hard
roads, the hoof is liable to burst. If the hoof is thin and
contracted, there is great danger of the inside quarters splitting.
Cut down the hoof back of the crack, so that there is no
pressure of that part of the bearing surface upon the shoe,




102            CORNS AND INTERFERING.
put on a bar shoe, cut across the split deeply at the edge
of the hair with a firing iron. Next cut down the edges of
the hoof so far as. split extends, to the quick. Then soften
and grow down the hoof rapidly by applying any good,
stimulating ointment. A mixture of
equal portions of tar, lard and turpenm!   -    GAB     tine, is excellent for this purpose. The
fitting of the shoe should be carefully
attended to, the hoof grown down as
rapidly as it is safe to do, and the
part kept clean by covering it with a
little tar, or a mixture of resin and
tallow. There will not be a cure
until a new hoof is grown down,
A        A       which will take about six or eight
(No. 22.)      months.
Bar Shoe for Corns.
Interfering.
Some horses travel so close that the least neglect of having the shoe well under the quarter, and the part nicely
dressed down, would cause a bruising and cutting of the
B                        A opposite ankle. If you do
not know what part of the
hoof strikes the ankle, wind
C   the ankle with a piece of
bandage and daub it with'
(No. 23.)         some coloring matter; then
Interfering Shoe.   trot the horse until some of
this coloring is found on the hoof, which indicates the part
that strikes. The shoe should be so formed and fitted as to
come well under this portion of the hoof. To do this well,
that side of the shoe should be made rather straight, with the
web narrow, and the nail-holes well forward in the toe; at
all events there must be no nails driven into that part of the
hoof that strikes, as the clinches will be likely to cut. If
the toe-cork is set well round, on the inside of the toe, and
the foot is so pared, or the shoe is so formed that the bearing
of the inside of the foot is raised somewhat, there will be a
tending in the ankle to be thrown out when borne upon.
But the great object isnto have the shoe fitted and filed
smoothly, and set well under the part hitting, so that after the




SIIOE1NG AND CARE OF FEET.           103
hoof is rasped off all it is prudent to do, and rounded down
carefully, the shoe sets far enough under not to endanger its
cutting, yet supports the hoof, and gives a natural bearing to
the foot. The chief danger
will be that some portion of 
this part of the shoe; will be
made to extend beyond the
hoof, and the shoe be fitted
and put on so roughly that
it can scarcely be said to be
fitted any smoother or better than is usually done,.
(No 24    without regard to such a     (No. 25.)
(No. 2ter          It is alay. bs A Leather Boot to
Interferig Pad. purpose.  t is always best  protect the Ankle.
to keep the bearing natural
by trimming the foot level, and making the shoe of an even
thickness, but set it under and file smoothly. If this will not
do, raise the inside a little. Driving young horses to sulky
will often cause interfering; getting a horse in good condition will often overcome the difficulty.  If the ankles are cut
or sore, they should be protected with pads until well. If the
owner values the animal highly, he should give such shoeing
his personal attention.
Pricking.
If the smith should happen to drive a nail so deep into the
crust as to strike the sensitive part, he should by no means
drive a nail into that hole again, so that if matter is formed
by the injury there will be an outlet for it. If the horse
becomes lame after being shod, examine the foot carefully. If
pricked by driving any of the nails too near the quick, there
will be heat and tenderness in the hoof easily discovered.
Have the shoe taken off, and cut down to where the nail
strikes the quick, enough to make room for any matter that
may have formed to escape; then poultice with flax seed
meal until the inflammation is reduced, when a little tar, resin,
or tallow, or something of this kind, should be put on, and
the opening filled up with a little tow to prevent gravel or
dirt from getting in, and the shoe put on again.




104          SHOEING AND CARE OF FEET.
Weak Eseels.
Cutting down too close and fitting the shoes roughly, so
that. the horse wears and breaks down the heels, will cause
them to be low and sensitive. Such feet should be simply
leveled down with the rasp carefully, and the shoe fitted to
touch every part of the bearing surface at the heels.
Shoes.
It should be borne in mind that that form of shoe which
accords with the foot in making the bearing natural, preserves
its elasticity and protects it from injury,
~A ~    is best. If we examine the foot it will
be found concave. Tjlis is the best
form to enable a fulcrum that will prevent slipping. If we would imitate
and carry out in -the form of the shoe,
that of the foot, it should be also concave, or thick at the outer' edge and
beveled upward to the inner edge on
the ground surface. Such a shoe will
not ball, prevents slipping, is lighter,
and would certainly enable more speed
(No. 26.)   on a track if at all wet. Amateurs
who have an opportunity should see my models of shoes of
different patterns.
Shoes for summer wear should be level, of an equal thickness from toe to heel. If the roads are soft, this is certainly
advisable, to give the frog pressure. If shoes are made with
corks, the inside ones should be rounded, so as not to cut the
feet. The outside ones will prevent slipping. My "Maine
Snow Shoe " is undoubtedly the best for winter use; will not
ball, and prevents the feet most effectually from being bruised
or injured.
The bearing surface of all shoes should be level, and come
exactly under the wall of the hoof all the way round. The
nails should be as small, and as few, and as far forward in the
toe as will retain the shoe safely, the object being to protect
the foot and keep it healthy. When from any cause there is
an undue absorption of moisture, making the fiog and hoof
dry and hard, either from inactivity by standing on a dry




SHOEING AND CARE OF FEET.             105
floor, or driving on dry hard roads, or both, it must be supplied by artificial means. Stuff or fill the feet with flax-seed
meal, to which has been added a little wood ashes mixed with
water. It will stick. Or wet cloths may be tied around the
hoof.
If there is soreness of the feet, put them in water as hot
as canl be borne, for an hour each day, for one or two weeks,
or blister mildly around the coronet, repeated two or three
times.
If there is a dry, hard condition of the feet, apply moisture
around the coronet by tieing wet cloths around the hoof, or
poulticing, stopping the feet with flaxseed meal, as before
explained; after which, apply some of the preparation for
softening the feet and stimulating the growth of horn.
The usual palliative means of rubber cushions and such
means, put between the hoof, to cure soreness and lameness,
are of no account, since they do not reach the cause of difficulty. The nailing of the shoe must necessarily be so tight
as to press out all the elasticity there is, and, in addition, the
heels cut through such means so quickly that they will not
prove of any real value.
Shoes should be re-set once in from four to six weeks.
For light, occasional use, not more than seven nails should be
driven-four on the outside and three on the inside-well
forward. The shoe should come well out under the toe, so
that there is no necessity for more than touching the edge a
little to reach the shoe, and by all means do not allow that
reckless rasping of the outside of the hoof so general with
shoers. If the shoe is short it should not be a reason that
the hoof must be cut down to it. Even rasping under the
clinches should not be permitted.  A thin shell can be easily
ruined in this way; besides, this rasping of the whole surface
of the hoof not only removes the strongest and hardest part,
but permits too rapid an evaporation, which causes the horn
to become hard and brittle. It is much better, easier and
cheaper to keep the feet healthy than to cure them. It is
wise in shoers to be patient and do thework well, and owners
should remember that extra care and skill deserves extra
compensation. It is hoped that the few explanations given
will aid in a better understanding of this duty.
5*




106     LAMENESS FROM INJURIES OF THE FEET.
If the horse shows sudden lameness in the foot, especially
after being shod, examine it carefully; strike the hoof lightly
with a small hammer; put the hand first on one foot and then
on the other, that you may discover any increased heat. If
a nail has been driven too deep, remove the shoe. If much
inflammation, poultice-usually necessary for twenty-four hours
or more-when cover the part with tow and a preparation of
tar and resin, or pitch and common grease. If a nail has
been driven into the foot, get the horse to the stable as quick
as you can, take off the shoe, poultice the foot, and give a
sharp dose of physic, and let the animal stand quietly. The
object is to keep down inflammation. No hot oils or anything
stimulating is to be applied.
I would by all means keep the wound wet with callendultc,
which should be reduced one-half by adding soft water. Second
best treatment, digestive ointment. Next, any of the digestive
remedies. There is liable to be tenderness if the sole should
strike the ground afterwards, as there may be inflammation of
the periosteum, to relieve which, put on a high-heeled shoe
and blister around the coronet. The sole is sometimes bruised
by the shoe pressing upon it, causing much inflammation and
lameness. Take off the shoe, poultice for twenty-four hours
or more; fit the shoe so as to remove all pressure from the
sole; if sore yet, continue the poultice; if matter is formed,
treat as you would any such ulcer, with a healing astringent.
Several good preparations are given in another part of this
work.




DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT.
THE treatment and remedies given in the following pages
can be used with confidence. While the treatment given is
the.very best, there are many special remedies, of the greatest
value, never before published, worth from ten to fifty dollars
each to any horseman. The author has spent thousands of
dollars and much valuable time (devoting one year to special
study and practice with one of the best veterinary surgeons
in the United States) in acquiring the knowledge imparted
here, besides including all the favorite remedies, prized for
their great curative powers, gathered by him, at a large cost,
during his long experience before the public in his profession.
Colic-Spasmodic and Flatulent.
Colic is one of the most common as well as most dangerous
diseases to which the horse is subject. There are two forms
of this disease, namely, Spasmodic and Flatulent Colic.
The first is wholly of a spasmodic nature, and if not
relieved, will, in severe cases, run into inflammation of the
bowels, causing speedy death.
The second, while exhibiting the same general symptoms,
shows marked enlargement of the belly, from generation of
gas, which, if not checked and neutralized, results fatally by
rupturing the diaphram, causing suffocation and death.
I will first give the simplest and safest treatment for each;
after which I will include a remedy which is almost a specific
for both, and cannot be too highly prized.
The common causes of colic are, application of cold water
to the body, drinking cold water when in a heated condition,
costiveness, unwholesome food, &c.
First-Spacsmodic Colic. Premonitory symptoms are sudden. The animal paws violently, showing evidences of great
distress, shifting his position almost constantly, and manifest



108             TREATIMENT OF DISEASES.
ing a desire to lie down.
In a few minutes these
an  the horse is ea sy.
As the disease advances the symptoms become more severe,
the animal at tiBut te sorame uneasi/ ~~l~ ~~~~ hness              soon returns,  in-. creasing  in  severity
until the animal cannot
belbe kept upon his feet;'  the pulse is full, scarcely altered from its norm- al condition; a cold
sweat breaks out over
First Stage of Spasmodic Colic.  the body; temperature
of legs and ears natural.
As thie disease advances the symptoms becomemore severe,
the animal at times throwing himself down with force, regardless of cohsequences, looks anxiously at the sides, sometimes
snapping with the teeth at the sides, looking anxiously at the
belly, and striking upward with the hind feet, showing almost
the same symptoms as in inflammation of the bowels. There
are, however, strongly marked characteristics peculiar to each.
The better to point them out, I will tabulate them, by which
the difference and peculiarities of each can be easily determined.
COLIC.             INFLAMMATION OF BOWELS.
Sudden in its attacks.       Gradual in its approach, with
previous indications of fever.
Pulse, in the early stage of the  Pulse much quickened, small,
disease, not much quickened or and often scarcely to be felt.
altered in its character.
Legs and ears of a natural   Legs and ears cold.
temperature.
Rubbing the belly gives relief.  Belly very tender and painful
to the touch.
Relief obtained from motion.  Motion increases pain.
Intervals of rest.           Constant pain.
Strength scarcely affected.  Rapid and great weakness.
This disease being wholly of a spasmodic nature, it must
be counteracted by antispasmodic treatment; bleeding being
the most powerful method of relaxing the system, taking
from six to twelve quarts of blood from the neck vein, more
or less, according to the size of the horse and severity of the




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              109
extract the blood as quickly,
as possible.                      lls
If not bled, give from two
to three ounces of laudanu/ll /  l
and a pint of raw linseed. oil.
If not better in an hour, give
two ounces of laudanum -and
the same quantity of oil.     Second Stage of Spasniodic Colic.
The peppermint and ether,
as recommended for flatulent colic, will sometimes work admirably in this, and may be tried at first, if at hand.
Aconite, belledonna, coin doses of friom five to ten
drops, in a little water or             il
sugar, given   Upon  the
tongue, repeated every fifteen  or twenty minutes,    -
will often cure colic promptly.  This is homeopathic 
treatment, and is very good.  Third Stage of Spasmodic Colic.
Flatulent Colie (Tymlpaultes.)
Symptoms same as spasmodic colic, With the difference of
there being so great an accumulation of gas in the stomach
and intestines that the belly is swelled. This disease will
often prove fatal in from one to three hours. It is generally
very sudden in its attack, often occurring while the animal is
at work, particularly during warm  weather or changeable
weather from cold to
heat; but is generally
caused by indigestion,
producing gases in the
stomach or bowels.
The horse is violently
swollen along the belly, flanks and side
generally. There are
sometimes  belchings
6f gas throungi tfh        First Stage of Fliatulent Coilc6




110            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
esophagus or gullet.  Pulse is rarely disturbed until the
disease advances, when it will become quickened, running to
its height rapidly, and receding as quickly if fatal. If to
terminate fatally, it will become weaker and slower until it
is almost imperceptible.
In this case, bleeding must not be attempted, neither must
any fluids be forced into the rectum. The animal loses
strength rapidly, and to bleed prostrates too much and checks
perspiration, without lessening accumulation of gas, and death
must almost surely follow.Treatment.-Blanket warmly, in order to keep up perspiration as much as possible, and give the following immediately:
Two ounces sulphuric ether, two ounces peppermint, one pint
of water; to be taken at one dose. If not relieved, repeat in
thirty or forty minutes. Keep the animal as quiet as possible, and give a good bed to lie on.
Note.-The ether disturbs the breathing, making the horse
apparently distressed-breathes laboriously-but will pass off
in a few hours.
If- much bloated, do not let the horse lie down, as the
shock might cause the diaphram to be ruptured, when of
course all hope of saving the animal would result only in
disappointment.
The above treatment is the best and most reliable perhaps
ever used for this dangerous disease. I have never known it
to fail when given in a reasonable time.
It is seldom necessary to repeat the dose more than once
to cure.
ANOTHER GOOD REMEDY FOR COLIC.
The following remedy, if at hand, will be found invaluable
for the cure of spasmodic or flatulent colic. It will afford
almost immediate relief if given soon after commencement of
attack, and is almost a specific for this dangerous disease:
Sulphuric ether, 1 pint; aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pint;
sweet spirits nitre, 2 pints; opium, 4 lb.; asafcetida, (pure,)'k lb.; camphor, Y lb. Put it in a large bottle, let it stand
fourteen days, with frequent shaking, and it will be fit to use.
Dose: One ounce, more or less, according to the severity of
the case, once in fromtthirty minutes to an hour. Should be
given in a little water, which may be sweetened.
Owners of valuable horses should keep a supply of this
medicine on hand ready for use.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              Il1
Inflammation of the Lungs.
Any cause by which the circulation is obstructed and
deranged may excite inflammation of the lungs. The- most
common are, exposing the animal while warm to a cold wind,
or becoming chilled from driving fast against a cold wind, washing with cold water immediately after exercise, changes from
heat to cold, or from cold to heat, removing from a warm to
a cold or from a cold to a warm stable, or cold applied to the
surface of a heated animal, by which the blood is driven from
the skin and extremities to the internal organs, may cause
inflammation of the lungs (pneumonia), pleurisy, congestion of
the lungs, inflammation of the bowels (enterilis), founder (lami.
nitis), or other difficulties of a similar nature.
~When the lungs are involved, the severity or mildness of
the attack-and the part inflamed indicates the extreme and
character of the disease..Thus: When the pleuro, a membrane that surrounds the lungs and extends between them
and the walls of the chest, is inflamed, the disease is called
pleurisy. When the inflammation is located in the lungs, it is
called pneumonia, or inflammation of the lungs. When the
action of the capillaries is greatly lessened from their being
weakened, or the blood being so forced through them that
they are obstructed and clogged, the difficulty is called congestion of the lungs.
There cannot be inflammation of a part without there being
more or less inflammation of the other parts surrounding, and
there cannot be inflammation without congestion, as there is
always obstruction of the circulation where there is inflammation.
As pleurisy, inflammation of the lungs and congestion of the
lungs are only different types of the same disease, excited by
the same general causes, and the treatment for each is almost
the same, I will include their treatment under the same general head. The better, however, to guide the reader, I will
give- the symptoms of each.
PLEURISY
iray be sudden or gradual in its attack, the horse showing
indisposition sometimes for days previous.  The horse will
be dull and heavy in action for a day or two, unwilling
to fie down, pulse not much disturbed, or there is a chilT,




112             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
which lasts from one to three hours, when fever sets in;
breathing at flanks a little accelerated, countenance is anxious,
the head is sometimes turned towards the side, does not lie
down. As the disease advances the symptoms become more
mafked. The ears and legs become cold; the pulse, from
being a little accelerated, grows quicker, hard and full; the
head is hung forward, stands up persistently, breathing hurried, the membrane of the nose and eyes red. Turning the
horse short round, or hitting against the chest, back of the
shoulder, will cause a kind of grunt.
Treatment.-Blanket warmly, and put in a comfortable
stall, where there will be pure air, and give aconite, prepared
as follows: Tinc. aconite, 1 oz.; -water, 3 oz. Of this give
from fifteen to thirty drops every twenty or thirty minutes,
on the tongue, giving more or less according to the severity
of the case. If the case is severe apply some strong stimulant
to the legs and on each side of the body and breast, such as
mustard, made into a paste and rubbed in thoroughly, or a
liniment composed of aqua ammonia, reduced one-half with
water; or any strong stimulating liniment should be applied.
The aconite should be repeated every twenty or thirty minutes
until relieved, lessening the dose both in proportion and frequency as the condition of the animal improves.
Note.-If you give a few doses of aconite about the time
fever sets in, or before, the horse will be relieved next day.
INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS
is first noticeable by the horse having a severe chill or shivering fit. He refuses his food, hangs his head between the
fore legs or upon
the manger, will
not move or lie
down,    breathing
quick  and  short,
panting like. The
nostrils are expanded, the head thrown
forward; the countenance  expresses
pain and great prostration. (See cut.)
The Commencement of Inflammation of the Lungs. The pullse is some



TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              113
times full a-nd quick, but generally quick and weak, scarcely
perceptible; the membrane of the nose and eyes bright red,
tending to purple; ears and legs very cold; a choking noise
sometimes coming from the throat.
Note.-In severe cases the horse may be very restless, lie
down and get up very suddenly, resembling colic. Here the
practitioner may be deceived if not careful to observe closely.
In some cases a little blood may be thrown from one or
both nostrils. Extreme prostration and laborious breathing
and bleeding from  nostrils shows severe congestion of the
lungs. In this case relief plmust be prompt, or
the horse may die froma
suffocation. 
Trmueat not e git.ven ins the treatment of any of the forms of
first object now is to 
reduce the congestion, 
it will be necessary to          i           i 
take fromn four to sixwar 
quarts of bloo    d from f t  h   w 
thae neckveni. Stimu-      W    h te p   e 
late the sides and legs      Con estion of the Lungs.
as for pleurisy, and give
aconite, prepared in the same manner, every ten minutes until
the fever subsides, when small doses are to be repeated at
intervals of a few hours as the case improves. Oil or physic
musrt not be given in the treatment of any of the forms of
inflammation- of the lungs, as such so intensifies the inflammation asv.to often make the cpase terminate fatally.
In all ordinary cases of inflammation of the lungs all that is
necessary to do is to put the lhorse in a well ventilated stall,
blanket and give aconite.  A few swallows of water should
be given occasionally, and if the horse will drink, the medicine
may be given in the water.  Watch the pulse ind the condition of the animal. In health the pulse is about 40 beats to
the minute, regular and full. In inflammation of the lungs it
may run up to 70 or even 80 beats, and so light as to be
scarcely felt even by the touch of the experienced practitioner.
Improvenment will be denoted by the pulse becoming fuller
and more regular, and the countenance Will become more
lively. I have known maniy cases to apparently resist treatment for days, the condition of the animal continuing about




114             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
thfe  sampue, and then
yield readily. Usualth, alt e    y the improvemrent
is marked  from the
start.  Of course it
is desirable when the
case is severe to resort to active counter
irritation, to excite
the blood to the extiremities. The inustard,  ammonia   or
Position Assumed by a Horse During a Severe  other  stimulating
Attack of Inflammation of the Lungs.  preparations recomprudence, is almost sure to cure.ecomended should be used three or four times a day.
If the pulse is high and obstinate, and does not yield to
the above treatment, alternate by giving tincture veratrum,
in the proportion of about ten or fifteen drops in a little water
on the tongue, repeated every thirty or forty miinutes until
there is a noticeable effect upon the pulse. It is also sometimes advisable to alternate with a few doses of'belladonna,
given in the same proportion.
It is hardly safe to recommend any complication of treatment that would possibly confuse or mislead. This is perhaps
the safest and most practical treatment ever given to the public and if used in a reasonable time, and with any degree of
prudence, is almost sure to cure.
After improvement, diet should be low for some timee
grueleand bran mashes, not much at a time; a few carrots or
potatoes, and no oats or corn, and but little if any hay.
TYPHOID PNEUMONIA, OR A LOW TYPE OF INFLAMMATION
OF THE LUNGS.
This disease sometimes assumes an epidemic form, and is
both dangerous and treacherous if not anticipated and properly
treated.
Though a comnmon and fatal disease, it is not laid down in
any veterinary works I have seen, and in consecpuence of
ignorance of its nature and improper treatment, is very fatal.
Symptomns.-The horse is dull, off his feed, disinclination
to move, pulse about 50, weak or low; will sometimes eat a
little hay; will not lie down; niot much cough; barely any




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              115
discoloration of the membrane of the nose or eyes; urine
scanty and high-colored; fieces hard and coated; after two or
three days the membrane of the nose and eyes a little more
discolored or red; pulse quicker; there is a discharge from
one or both nostrils, usually one; the breathing is quicker;
about the sixth or seventh day there is a large flow of urine,
is more clear and watery in appearance; the legs swell and
there is a watery secretion under the belly, after or during
which there may be lameness, usually in one of the fore legs,
which may soon change to the other.
The main point in treating the disease is to keep the fever
down without lowering the strength.  Bleeding or physic
must not on any account be resorted to. Give aconite as for
the other cases, observing the same care in blanketing and
putting in a clean, well ventilated stall. Nurse and tempt
the appetite by giving warm gruel and such mild delicacies as
the horse will eat. If the pulse is above seventy, give more
aconite; if below that, less. This fever will run its course
in about seven or eight days. Nurse carefully; the animal
will show great prostration, and recuperates slowly, and must
not be put to work until fully recovered. Do not give any
physic or attempt to bleed. A fatal result will almost surely
follow depletion. On the contrary, it is often necessary inl
critical cases, where the system is low and the strength is
reduced, to give.tonics., The safest and best course for the
reader to pursue is to keep and build up the strength by careful nursing. Give all the feed, at all times, the horse will
eat. It is highly important to keep the appetite good and
keep the strength up.
Catarrh, or Cold.
Cold is of common occurrence, and may
lead to very serious consequences if neglected. If looked to in time, with a little
rest and nursing, the system will soon 
resume its normal condition. 
The usual symptoms are, a little increase of pulse, a slight discharge from
the nose and eyes, the hair roughed; not
much appetite, and some cough, which is 
sometimes severe.
Blanket warmly, give aconite as for   Effoct of a Cold.




116            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
fever. Nurse by giving bran mashes, &c. If
the case is serious it may run into general
inflammation of the air passages, as bronchitis
or laryngitis. Would aim to keep up the
strength, giving fever medicine, alternating
~? 2   t    with belladonna. Put on a bag, made of
coarse, loose cloth, into which put some bran
1       on which throw an ounce or two of turpentine. Now pour on some hot water. Hang
the bag on the head, same as in cut, being
careful not to have it so tight around the
I    nose as to heat or scald and be oppressive.
Steaming the Nose A few repetitions of this will cause the nose
of a Horse having to run freely. Rest and care will usually do
Cold.        the rest.
MI 7
If there is obstinate inflammation of the throat and air
passages, any good liniment may be applied around the chest
and throat and bandaged, as shown in the cut. The object is
to stimulate the surface, and this would be an easy, practical
way of doing it.
Strangles.
Tlis is another form of sore-throat, familiar to every one.
Its design seems to be to throw some poisonous matter from
the system, and the object should be to -keep the strength of
the animal up and hasten suppuration.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              117
Tile horse is out of sorts; the
neck becomes sore and stiff; an
enlargement appears which is. first
hard and tender; there is some
discharge from  the nose.  The
case usually grows worse, if very
severe, often threatening to cause
suffocation; horse unable to eat or     Strangles.
drink but little, and strength is
lost rapidly.
Use freely a poultice made of wheat bran and warm
vinegar, changing as often as the
poultice becomes dry, using the
eight-tailed bandage, until the enlargement becomes soft and can be
opened, when relief will be prompt.
Or the following treatment may
be adopted, which is similar, and
if the alteration is not good, is
preferable:. Take spirits of turpen- Applying an Eight-Tailed Bandage
in Strangles.
tine, two parts; spirits of cam-       in traes
phor, one part; laudanum, one part. Put this on the neck
with a brush, if convenient, or any
way to apply it without exciting. 
pain, three or four times a day 
until soreness is caused. After
each application have ready three   Eight-Tailed Bandage.
or four pieces of flannel, which should be a good thick article;
Opening the Abscess in Strangles.




118             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
put these over the parts and bind on with the eight-tailed
bandage. When the tumor points, open it, and be sure that
the matter has a thorough outlet. Sometimes the inflammation is so deep as to cause serious soreness and swelling of
the throat. In this case the horse must be nursed carefully
by feeding with warm gruel; the drink should be warm;
grass or anything that will tempt the appetite should be
given. Physic must not be given.
Inflammation of the Bowels.
This disease is generally caused by constipation of the
bowels, hard driving, over-purging or looseness of bowels, or
drinking cold water when warm. Constipation is, however,
the principal cause of the disease, and when this is the case,
the first and most important condition of relief is to get an
action of the bowels..,~~a ^Symptoms.-For the first
few hours the horse is uneasy,
paws, looks around at the side,
7'  r   tthe pulse is slightly accelerated and wiry.   As the
disease advances the intermissions between the attack
become less, pulse quicker,
Symptoms of Intestinal and Abdominal g   fm   s       
Irritation, as Shown in Inflammation  running  from  seventy to
of the Bowels.              eighty beats in a minute, in
some instances even faster; lies down and gets up, shows
much pain, no swelling of sides. Now begins to exhibit fever,
bowels constipated, urine highly colored and scanty.
Remedy.-Give a quart of raw linseed oil.
Note.-If constipation is very great, add from four to six
drops of croton oil.
If scours or over-purging, give an ounce and a half of the
tincture of opium with six ounces of water. But in order to
suppress the inflammation it is necessary to bleed immediately
from the neck vein from six to ten quarts of blood, according
to the strength and size of the animal. In extreme cases
bleeding may be repeated to the extent of four to six quarts
in three or four hours. If much pain exists in constipation,
give from one to three ounces tincture asafcetida. Feed lightly
for a week at least, giving gruel, roots, grass and bran mashes,
and keep quiet. No exercise for several days if there is danger
of a relapse.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              119
Inflanmlnation of the Kidneys.
Inflammation of the kidneys is generally caused by hard
work, by slipping, throwing the hind parts so suddenly under
the belly as to produce undue tension of the lumbar vertebrae,
or from sudden colds by being exposed to rain and cold, the
eating of musty hay or oats, or unhealthy food of any kind.
Too powerful or too often repeated
diuretics produce inflammation of
the kidneys, or a degree of irritation and weakness of them   that
disposes  to  inflammation,  from
causes. that would otherwise have
no injurious effect.
Symptoms.-Less or more fever
of the system generally, and unwil- 
lingness to move, particularly the
hind legs, dung hard and coated,
very sensitive to pressure on the
spine. The horse looks anxiously
round at his flanks, stands with his Appearance of a Horse Sufferhind legs wide apart, straddles as  i1g from Diassesof the Uri
he walks, shows pain in turning;
the urine is voided in small quantities, and is usually
high colored, sometimes bloody; the attempt to urinate
becomes more frequent, and the quantity voided smaller,
until the animal strains violently, without being able to pass
any or but very little urine. Thepulse is quick and hard, full in the
early stage of the disease, but
rapidly becoming small, though not 
losing its character of hardness.
Introduce the hand into the rectum.
If the bladder is found full and hard            /
under the rectum, there is inflammation of the neck of the bladder. 
If the bladder is empty, yet on the
portion of the intestines immediately
over it there is more than natural 
heat and tenderness, there is inflammation of the body of the bladder.
H, I  1111  *,r-;* eTest for Inflammation of the
If the bladder is empty and there is     Kidneys.




120             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
no increased tenderness and heat, there is inflammation of the
kidneys.
Treatment.-If the pulse is high, about sixty, take five or
six quarts of blood and give a fever ball; to be repeated in
three hours if not better.''Fever ball: 4 drams Barbadoes
aloes, 1 dram tartar emetic, 2 drams ginger, calomel about
the size of a bean, molasses sufficient to make into a ball.
Counter irritation must next be excited over the seat of
the disease.  The loins should be fomented with hot water or
covered with mustard poultice, or, better, heat a peck of salt
in an oven, place it in a bag, and put it over the part affected.
If the case is severe and protracted, a sharp blister may be
used. No diuretics are to be given, as they would simply
aggravate, and make the disease worse.  After the bowels
are open, give aconite, and treat as for fever. After recovery
the horse should be kept very quiet for a month, and if in
season, turned out to grass. If in winter, feed with light
mashy diet; exercise lightly by leading, if the animal be
valuable and it is desired to aid recovery by extra care.
Inflammation of the Bladder.
Symptoms almost the same as those of inflammation of tle
kidneys.  Frequent voiding of urine in small quantities,
quick pulse, looks frequently at flanks, paws violently, tender
when pressed upon under the flanks.
Here the principal object is to lower inflammation and
relax the muscular contraction of the neck of the bladder.
Bleed largely, almost to fainting; give physic as for inflammation of the kidneys, or a quart of' linseed oil. A dram
of powdered opium, made into a ball, or given in drink, every
two or three hours, and blister over the loins. - Give aconite,
as for inflammation of the kidneys.
Infammnation of the Brainl or Staggers,
Is first noticeable by dullness or sleepiness of the eyes, an
unwillingness to move, general heaviness of the system. This
disease is frequently called megrims, fits and mad staggers;
but in part only one disease, according to the extent of such
disease as the animal may be affected wittl.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              121
In my opinion, there is but one cause for staggers, that is,
an undue flow of blood to the brain, which rarely or never occurs in any animals except those in a plethoric (fat) condition.
Some writers and practitioners assert that there is a disease
known as stomach staggers. I have never seen a case where
it was necessary to treat the stomach, but always direct
attention to the brain, as being the seat of this disease,
which may be properly called head staggers.
In cases of megrims or fits it is merely a lesser attack, or
pressure of the blood-vessels on the brain, and mad staggers
is a greater pressure of the same vessels on the same part.
The brain is divided into two parts, namely, cerebrum and
cerebellum, which occupy a horny box in the head. The
blood-vessels passing over the brain and coming in contact
with the skull, become distended by an increased quantity of
blood, and produce the feeling, which is thus exhibited.
There is but one cure for this disease, and that is, remove
the cause. Bleed largely from the neck-ten, twelve or
fourteen quarts, or until the symptoms of fainting. After the
horse is convalescent a sharp dose of physic should.be given
to regulate the bowels. I would advise owners of such horses
to dispose of them. Once taken with the disease, they are
subject to a repetition of the attack when the blood-vessels
become filled again.
Note.-Small doses of aconite (of the quantity for fever)
may be given three or four times a day as a good preventive.
Turning horses to pasture that may be liable to this disease
will prove both injurious and dangerous.
Founder, (Laminitis.)
There are two stages of this disease, acute and chronic.
The first produces a high state of excitement and inflammation of the sensible laminae of the foot. The second, a morbid or insensible feeling of the parts generally. The first is
invariably cured if properly treated.  The second is not curable, but may be palliated to a limited extent. Acute founder
is easily detected.  The animal invariably extends the fore
feet as far forward as he can, and brings the hind ones in the
same position under him. There is so much pain in the fore
feet that he endeavors to throw his weight on the hind oVes.
(See cut.)  The common causes of founder are exposing the
animal when warm to sudden changes, usually produced by
6




122            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
the following means, namely: Standing in cold air when
warm, after being driven, driving through a river while warm, or
giving cold water to drink while warm, washing the feet when
warm and neglecting to dry them, &c. It is generally supposed that feeding a horse while warm will produce founder.
This is an error, unless it is such food as will chill the system,
which may be done by giving a large quantity of cold wet
mixed feed, whereby the circulation would be checked, as
before explained.
The Horse as he Appears when Suffering from Inflammation in the Feet, or
Founder.
To come right to the point, founder is simply inflammation
in the feet, whatever of general disturbance of the system is
caused by the pain and soreness in them, and the correct
principle of cure is to lower and remove this inflammation
before change of structure or sloughing can take place.
Treatment.-As soon as the disease has developed itself,
bleed from the neck, according to the size and condition of
the animal-from six to twelve quarts. Then give a sharp
cathartic ball-7 drams aloes, 4 drams bar soap, 1 dram ginger. Make into a ball and give immediately. After the fore
shoes have been removed, poultice thoroughly with bran wet
with cold water. This poultice may, while on the feet, be
kept wet by dipping the poulticed foot into a pail of cold
water, or pouring some on. This poulticing should be kept
up from four to five days, when the shoes may be tacked on,
and the animal exercised a little. Cloths wet with cold water




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.             123
should be tied around the coronet and the soles stuffed for a
week or two. The horse should have tepid water to drink
and warm bran mashes during the operation of the medicine.
If the disease should be stubborn, which is rarely the case, a
second ball may be given after an interval of five days.
Nothing can be done for a sub-acute founder, or case badly
treated. If the sole is broken down do not pare the sole.
Fit the shoe so as not to press on the sole. Stuff the whole
bottom with oakum and tar, and apply leather over. Put on
the shoe carefully. Cure is impossible. If warm fomentations are used, instead of cold, a relaxation of the sensible
laminae on the wall of the foot is liable to take place. This
throws the entire weight on the sole, through the os pedis,
forcing it through at the toe.
There are but few who will attempt to bleed as directed,
and fewer still who will give a ball, (special directions for
doing which will be found in another chapter.) If you cannot bleed or physic as directed, bleed from the toes, if you
can, standing the fore feet in moderately warm water while
doing so, and give aconite as for inflammation of the lungs.
Keep the feet wet by poulticing or standing in cold water
until relieved. Use cloths and stuff as before directed.
This treatment even will cure, but the first treatment given
affords prompt relief. No dependence can be placed upon
pretended sure cure for founder.  The treatment here given
is specific, and can be relied upon.
Heaves, or Broken Wind.
Heaves produces increased action of the flanks. The inspiration is natural, but the expiration requires two motions to
expel the air. There is always a short cough, or grunt, and
at the same time expels wind while coughing. Heaves are
never found in the racing stable, where horses are properly
fed. They are always found among cart or team horses,
where the owners suppose they must feed a large quantity of
coarse food or hay.
The seat of the disease is located in the air cells of the
lungs, causing enlargement and sometimes a rupture of these
cells. This disease is often produced by forcing too large
a quantity of food into the stomach and bowels, and the
greedy animal, not being even then satisfied, eats the bedding.




124            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
He is then taken out and worked or driven hard, the bowels
and stomach pressing on the diaphram, thereby not allowing the lungs to expand by being filled with air, and by
this increased pressure the air cells are enlarged or ruptured,
and the horse is said to have the heaves. Much has been
said by different authors regarding the curability of heaves.
Some advocate one means and some another, among which is
that of feeding on Western plains, or prairie grass, or feeding
prairie hay, which is said to contain resin weed, that will
effect a cure. Prairie hay is only a palliative, affording relief
so long only as used. Prairie hay or grass is more laxative
than timothy hay, and the animal cannot eat half as much in
a given time of the former as of the latter, consequently it
not only promotes a condition favorable to respiration, by
stimulating the bowels, but does not cause that pressure upon
the lungs that the timothy in consequence does. While
prairie hay-has a decidedly beneficial effect in alleviating
heaves, there are several other kinds of food equally as
good, or better, than prairie hay or grass. One is, cornstalk
fodder. As it is the amount of saccharine matter that food
contains which makes it valuable, and the less compass it
occupies in the bowels the better, we must arrive at this conclusion, and experience proves it to be correct. One quart of
oats is equal to an armful of hay, and three pounds of corn
leaves contain more sugar than six times the bulk of hay.
The cause, the cure and treatment is marked in these words,
that heaves is produced by pressure on the diaphram, by too
much food in the stomach and bowels, and is cured by lessening the quantity of a better quality of food, to occupy the
same space. If horses are turned out to grass, after a few
days heaves will generally disappear, from the fact that the
bowels are generally relaxed by taking exercise and having
pure air.
The only treatment which will prove in any degree effective is as follows: first give one of the following balls:
Ginger, powdered, 2 oz.; capsicum, 4 oz. Form a ball.
This ball to be given three nights in succession; then omit
two or three nights, and one or two balls may be given again
in succession; or eight or ten drops of tincture of phosphorus
may be given in drink several times a day for eight or ten
days. The horse should have regular exercise, be watered
often, (small quantities at a time,) and have straw instead of




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              125
hay to eat, (corn fodder would be much better.) Under this
treatment heaves will disappear.
FAVORITE REMEDIES OF GREAT VALUE FOR HEAVES.
1. Spanish brown, 2 oz.; tartar emetic, 2 oz.; resin, 4 oz.;
ginger, 2 oz. Mix and give two teaspoonfuls twice a day in
the feed.
2. Vegetable tar, in mass, 2 oz.; gum camphor, 1 oz.; tartar emetic, 1 dram. / Form into a ball, one of which is to be
given once a day. If proper attention is given to feeding,
this will cure the heaves in three days, unless very bad.
3. The following prescription is one of the very best remedies known for heaves, and will in many cases cure: Take
indigo, 1 oz.; saltpeter, 1 oz.; rain water, 1 gallon; mix and
give a pint twice a day in the feed.
Tetanus, or Locked Jaw.
This disease is wholly of a nervous character. A description of the symptoms is scarcely necessary, but in the first
stage there is a disinclination to move; then the tail becomes
erect and quivers, the ears set back, aid the conjunctina
(hair) is thrown over the pupils of the eye, and the head is
elevated.
As the disease advances the muscles all over the neck and
body become stiff and rigid, and the legs have the appearance
of a four-footed stool. The animal has little or no power to
move.
For the first few days the teeth remain apart, hut as the
disease advances the muscles of the jaw become so contracted
as to bring them close together. Hence the name of locked
jaw.
The causes of this disease are numerous, but it is generally
produced from a wounded nerve or bunch of nerves, pricking
the tail, and very often from docking, punctured wounds in
the feet from glass or nails, and sometimes from severe exposure to cold, and I have known one case to occur from
fright. As to the pulse, it is almost normal for the first few
days. As the disease advances the pulse quickens, and the
animal is compelled to stand on his legs until death, if it terminates fatally. If favorably, a relaxation of the muscles
begins from the fifth to the seventh day. This disease is
more common in the extreme South than in the North.




126            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
Treatment.-First, as the disease is of a nervous character,
quietness is of the greatest importance. The animal should be
put into an isolated place or box, by himself, and the cause of
the disease found. If from docking, the next joint should be
taken off the tail. If from a wound in the foot, the wound
should be opened up and made new, and an application of
digestive ointment inserted, so as to produce a healthy flow
of matter. When the irritation has ceased from the wound,
a pail of gruel should be placed before him, in which is mixed
half an ounce of tartar emetic. This medicine should be
given daily, and the spine rubbed well with a strong liniment,
composed of one part of aqua ammonia and two parts of
sweet oil. This embrocation should be employed daily until
the back becomes sore.
Tetanus never arises from a wound until about the period
that it may be considered healed. Bleeding about four quarts
daily for four or five days has cured several bad cases. Think
if the bowels can be regulated, quietness has more to do in
producing a cure than all other remedies.
Spavin and Ringbone.
There are two kinds of bone spavin, namely: Jack and
ocult, or consolidated joint. The first is located at the upper
portion of the metatarsal bone at its juncture with the
cuboid bones. The second is usually located higher up and
more on the inside of the astragalus bone at its junction
with the cuboid bones.
Spavins of either of the above classes have the same origin
and same causes, namely, inflammation of the cartilage of the
joint in the first instance, and extending to ulceration of the
bone, consequently bony matter is thrown out, uniting more
or less of the bone of the hock and excess of matter and
ulceration of the bones from the enlargement.
The causes of spavin are numerous, but principally of one class, such
as sprains, hard work, blows, and, in
fact, any cause exciting inflammation
i  of this part. But a common cause
and a great fault lies in the breeders
of horses, as very often the colt is
bred from  spavin sire or dam, or
Showing the Changes of Struc- both, and the colt is certain to inherit
ture Caused.   the same predisposition.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              127
The symptoms at the commencement are treacherous. Very
often horses are treated for hip lameness, before any enlargement makes its appearance.  The horse, at first, is very lame
while laboring under acute inflammation of the
hock joint.  He will not wear out of the lameness as he does in the more advanced stage of
the disease. The tumor generally makes its
appearance from the fifth to the eighth week.
Sometimes, however, the lameness is very
gradual-scarcely perceptible at first-getting
worse until there is marked lameness at starting,
which will soon wear off as the horse warms up.  one pavin.
The method of curing is varied as there are hundreds of
different remedies and applications.  Some men go so far as
to pretend they can remove spavins. To a skillful practitioner this is absurd. It will be seen that if such quacks
can remove the external tumor, they can' >
not selarate the bones  j/'
which are united, and
horses maybe spavined          "
without any visible enlargement.
I can  simplify all
this to gentlemen in- 
terested, by illustrating
what I mean, by my
specimens, a good collection of w hi c h I     Natural Action.  Effect of Bad Spavin
carry for the purpose.                     -Leg not Brought
Sublimates,  muriatic
and sulphuric, and nitric acids form the basis of the different
ointments that are applied to remove this formidable disease.
They always make a bad sore and blemish the animal for life.
The only reasonable treatment for bone spavin is counter
irritation and rest. If there is heat during the first few days,
apply cooling applications, such as an ounce of sugar of lead
to half a pail of ice water. Keep the leg wet for about two
weeks, when it may pass off. A dose of physic should be
given. If this stage has passed, repeated blistering with a
preparation of iodine or cantharidine will be necessary; but
much better would be the actual cautery in an operator's




128             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
hands. Clip the hair closely over a large surface four or five
inches above and below the enlargement, and then out to the
middle of the back and fore parts of the leg. Any of the
strong blisters recommended for spavins, for which formulas
are given in another chapter,' are to be used. If a blister, rub
it in well with the hand for ten minutes or more. In two days
put on some grease. When the inflammation goes down, wash
with warm water and castile soap, and when dry put on more
blister, and so repeat, keeping up just as much irritation
as you can without destroying the hair. In the mean time,
the horse must be kept in a comfortable stall, for one of the
conditions of cure is rest. Keep up the inflammation in this
way for four or five weeks, after which give a run to grass.
It is sometimes necessary to blister lightly, if the lameness
does not disappear in six or eight weeks, which may be
repeated a few times, with iodine ointment in the proportion
of one part-of'iodine to two of lard.
Work should be light, if any, within
three months. This treatment will usually
cure without leaving a blemish.
Treat ringbones on the same principle.
Trim off the hair and blister in the same
manner, observing the same condition of
i ^^^y    rest. As regards taking off the enlargement, this treatment is as effectual towards
2               that end as can be used.
Several of the very best recipes for the
cure of spavins and ringbones will be found
Ringbone.   in another chapter.
BLOOD SPAVIN, THOROUGH PIN,
Soft enlargements upon the hock. Treatment the same. If
not of long standing, the following will be found very
effective, though simple: Rub
on soft soap at night, and.  wash off in the morning, repeating until cured. Two or
three applications will cure, if
l recently caused. If of long'duration, blister two or three
Thorough Pin. times, clipping the hair as for  Bspagviol.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.               129
spavin. If the enlargement is very great and of long standing, it is difficult to do much.
SPRAIN OF THE BACK SINEWS.
The animal becomes suddenly lame, and by use grows
worse. Pass the fingers down
on each of the tendons back/.j. 
of the knee.    A   little enlargement, if there, with considerable inflammation, will be
discovered. Use cooling astringent liniment until the acute
stage passes off. If not better
t h e n, blister, observing to
give the animal rest.   It is
give te aim   r. I  is Enlargement Caused by Sprain of the
sometimes very obstinate.               Tendons.
SPLINTS.
This is an enlargement between1 
the cannon and splint bones, show-               3
ing itself on the inside of the fore 
leg. The same treatment as for
spavin.
Changes that may  Splint.
be Produced.
CURB.
Clean Hock.       Curb.               Curb.
This is an enlargement of the integument, and in some
cases of bony deposit, usually caused by a strain. It is situated
6f




130              TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
on the back part of the hock, just below the cap.    Same
treatment as for spavin.
Coffin Joint Lamseness
Is often mistaken by those who are not. capable of locating
the diseases of horses' feet to be lameness of the shoulder, from
the fact that generally after the shoe is removed, and no ex-ternal injury is discovered in the foot, some distant part is
selected as the location of the disease.  Navicular disease is
ldangerous and treacherous in its progress and development.
It is commonly caused by violent sprains of the navicular joint,
although sometimes,'and, in fact, very often, may be induced
by a contusion of the frog; and again, there is a disposition
to have this disease from hereditary causes.
The coffin joint is composed of three bones: the os pedis,
the navicular and small pastern bones. The navicular bone
answers the purpose of a support in
allowing great elasticity of motion. The
flexor tendon inserts itself into the os
pedis, and passes immediately over the
navicular bone, so that at each step the
navicular bone is thrown upon one part
of the os pedis and small pastern at the
same time.    It will be seen that in all
cases of lameness of this joint, as well
as in any other joint lameness, that the
cartilage of the bones is inflamed, and
Section of the Parts En- as the disease progresses ulceration takes
tering into the Composition of the Foot, and place, and consequently ancholosis.  It
the Fetlock and Pastern is almost striving against hope to be
Joints.
able to explain to the general reader the
ac Os suffrvginis  b Os
corone. c Os pedis. dO symptoms to enable ability to locate the
Os naviculare. e e The disease with any degree of certainty.
perforans and perforatus
tendons. g Inferior sesa- Corns or bruises of the sole, contraction,
moideal ligament. 7 Cleft or almost any cause exciting inflammaof frog. i Side of frog
cleft. j Sole. k Crust. tion in the foot, may cause similar lamel Coronary substance. 
Coronary sstnce.  ness, and to an ordinary observer there
cannot be that fine judgment-necessary to trace from certain
peculiarities the location of the trouble.
Horses having navicular disease invariably travel more on
the toe than on the heel, consequently the shoe is always
worn more at the toe than at the heel.  The hoof rarely or




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              131
never is malformed, but the disease commonly occurs in healthy looking feet contraction of one or both heels, which will in
many cases interfere with the outer cartilage of the joint. In
cases of long standing the frog appears to recede, and does
not have a natural appearance. If the horse is taken suddenly lame, sometimes scarcely putting the foot down, and
only presses upon the toe, feel of the foot carefully. If there
is heat around the top of the hoof and tenderness-even a
little at the heel-there is probably strain of the coffin joint.
In in.cipent cases (first stages) there is fever and tenderness
to motion of the joint, which is noticeable by catching the
foot in one hand, the ankle in the other, and twisting a little.
The animal will show pain and resist.
As to treatment, in the first stage, the shoe should be removed, and have the toe of the shoe hammered down. The
heels should be raised, and applied again so as to remove all
pressure from the frog, and a cloth or rug saturated with cold
water applied to the coronet. The bottom of the foot should
be stuffed with oil ireal or some adhesive substance.  If this
is done for a few days, with rest, the first attack will generally
pass off.
In the more advanced stage of this disease it will require
thorough treatment. The shoe should be formed and applied
as before, and a severe blistering applied to the coronet, whicli
should be continued for from one to three weeks, with rest.
At a still more advanced stage the frog seaton may be used,
but this must be done by an experienced practitioner.
In all cases of this disease the animal will require considerable rest.
I would here remark that in an advanced stage of the
disease the horse is a little lame, sometimes worse, at others
better; rough road and down hill worse; is no worse to be
at work; usually no apparent change in the hoof; will go
better when the heels are raised by using high-heeled shoes;
worse by bringing heels to the ground.
S-weeny.
This is an affection of the muscles of the upper part of the
shoulder. It is characterized by a shrinking of the shoulder,
with lameness. It is called atrophy, or wasting away of the
muscles of the upper part of the shoulder. The cause of
sweeny is dependent upon some other difficulty. Contraction,
corns, etc., or any cause preventing a proper use of the limb.




132            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
Examine the foot carefully, discover the cause, and, if possible, remove it. Next, take oil of spike, 2 oz.; oil of organum, 2 oz.; aqua ammonia, 2 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.;
sweet oil, 2 oz.; alcohol, 2 oz.; mix. This is to be applied
freely to the shrunken parts and well rubbed in every other
day. Four or -five applications will cure.
The usual method of cure is by a seaton. The needle is
passed through the skin at the upper border of the shrunken
part and passed down under the skin and out at the lower
border. The tape is then drawn through and the ends are
knotted together. The tape should be smeared with Venice
turpentine or a little blistering ointment, or fifteen or twenty
drops of tincture of Spanish flies may be dropped into the
opening. The seaton should be washed every day. In fifteen or twenty days the seaton can be taken out, and the
sweeny will be cured.
Retenltion of Urine.
The most common cause is keeping the animal at work, not
giving time to urinate, and a spasm of the neck of the bladder
or gravelly concretions; any cause of irritation may cause
spasm. Symptoms are the same as' in inflammation of the
kidneys, except standing very wide behind, and when walking, a straddling gait resembling a cow with a very full bag.
The most prompt treatment is to use the catheter, and
scarcely anything more is necessary. But if one is not obtainable, bleed freely and give a strong-opiate. 3 oz. tinc.
opium, in half pint of water.
Scours or Purging.
This disease is generally produced by two causes: change
of food or water, or unhealthy food, and sometimes through
nervous excitement.
Cure.-Neutralize the acids in the bowels by giving an
ounce and a half of prepared chalk and a dram and a half
of prepared catechu, mixed in a pint of water. Give once or
twice a day until purging ceases. Keep the animal without
exercise, and do not give much water to drink.
The treatment given in the following pages will be found
very valuable, as it is written up in plain language, and the
very best treatment given. There are single remedies given
here worth far more than the cost of the book.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.             133
Spasmodic Action of the Diaphragm, (Thnmps,)
Is caused by severe and long-continued driving and hard
work. Horses of a nervous temperament having too much
cold water given to drink on a cold morning, nervous irritation, or excitement from any cause, may excite this trouble.
Symptoms.-A sudden jerking or twitching of the muscles
of the sides and flanks; pulse wiry, quick and low, more or
less fever; extremities natural.Cure.-This disease being of a purely spasmodic character,
but in this case wholly of a nervous nature, bleeding must be
omitted, and must be treated wholly by giving spasmodic
remedies. Give asafcetida, in a dose of from 1 to 3 ounces
of the tincture, mixed in a half pint of water. Given as a
drench will stop it almost instantly.
If necessary, the medicine may be repeated in two hours.
Keep the horse well clothed, and keep all exciting causes
away from him. The bowels should be kept loose and regular, by giving bran mashes and moderate exercise.
Worms,
The symptoms of worms are debility, feebleness, sluggish
movements, emaciation, staring coat, hide bound, skin covered
with blotches, irregular and capricious appetite, tucked up
belly, pallid appearance of the
liningmembrane of thelip, badly  i iil
digested faeces, rubs the tail, and
where fundament worms exist a
whitish substance will be found
about the fundament..bB
Give of calomel, 3 drams;
tartar emetic, 1 dram. Mix and    Symptoms of Worms.
divide into three powders; one
to be given at night for three successive nights. To be folfowed, in twenty-four hours, with a good purging ball.
Taenia, or Tape Worm.   Different Kinds of Worms.




134             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
Bleeding.
For general bleeding the jugular vein is selected. The
horse is blindfolded, or his head turned away; the hair is
smoothed along the course of the vein with a moistened
Raising the Vein.
finger, then, with the third and little fingers of the left hand,
which holds the fleam, pressure is made on the vein sufficiently
to bring it into view, but not to swell it too much. The point
to be selected is about two inches below the union of the
Bleeding from the Neck Vein.
jugular vein at the angle of the jaw. (See cut.)  The fleam is
put in a direct line with the vein at the center, when it is to




TREATME-NT OF DISEASES.             135
be hit sharply with a stick. See that the 
fleam is large, sharp and clean, for if rusty or
dull, inflammation of the vein might result. i
It is of great importance that the blood be
drawn quickly. When sufficient blood has been i
taken, the edges of the wound should be
brought closely together, and kept together
by a small sharp pin being passed through
them. Around this a little tow or a few hairs
from the mane of the horse should be wrapped, A pin is first stuck
throughi the lips
so as to cover the whole of the incision, and  of the wound;
the head of the horse should be tied up for  t portion of
tow, thread or
several hours, to prevent his rubbing the part  hair is then
against the manger. When the bleeding is to  thped round
be repeated, if more than three or four hours
have elapsed, it will be more prudent to make a fresh incision,
rather than to open the old wound.
Physicing.
It is always best, if possible, to prepare the horse for physic
by giving a bran mash twenty-four hours previously, as the
medicine will act more favorably and there is less danger of
superpurgation. Five drams of aloes (Barbadoes aloes are
always used for horses) will act as forcibly after a mash as
seven without. Again, the quantity of physic should be
adapted to age and size. The rule is to give one dram for
each year up to seven. Eight drams is the largest given at
one dose.
Physic Ball: Barbadoes aloes, pulverized, 7 drams; bar
soap, 4 drams; ginger, 1 dram. The usual way is to mix the
ingredients in this proportion, then reduce to the weight intended and give.
One ounce of tartar emetic is used by some practitioners
for physic. It is more easily given.
For Alterative Balls simply give from one to two or three
ounces of mass, as above prepared, two or three times a week,
for a week or two.
For Worms: Give 4 drams aloes, 1 dram tartar emetic, 2
drams ginger, about the size of a bean of calomel, and molasses
enough to make into a ball. To be given every morning for
three days.




136             TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.
CONDITION POWDERS: Sulphur, 2 lbs.; fenugreek, 4 lbs.;
cream tartar, 1 lb.; liquorice, 1 lb.; niter, 1 lb.; black antimony, Y lb.; gentian, 4 lb.; aniseed, 4 lb.; common salt, 1
lb. Dose-One ounce daily, for two or three weeks.
CUTS OR WOUNDS-REMEDIES FOR.
If the cut or wound is very bad, trim the hair off close
around the edges, and wash out carefully with warm water
and castile soap. The object next is to produce a granulating
process. There is hardly any use in sewing up cuts, as the
stitches will sluff out.
Simple tincture of marigold, called callendula, has the best
healing action of anything I have used. It will heal by first
intention, and if a contused wound lowers inflammation and
soreness. For man it is unrivalled, and I have found it
equally good for horse flesh.
A fine healing lotion is: Tincture myrrh, 1 oz.; tincture
aloes, 2 oz.; water, 1 pint. Mix, and apply two or three
times a day.
For Thrush or Canker: Burnt alum, 4 oz.; sulphate of
iron, 2 oz.; sulphate of copper, 1 oz.; camphor, 2 drams. Mix.
Blue vitriol, in the proportion of two drams to a pint of
water is an excellent application for wounds. If a caustic
effect is desired, increase the quantity to an ounce or more,
and it will be found a fine preparation to rouse old ulcers to a
healthy action.
For a healing ointment the following is unrivalled: 22 lbs.
palm oil, 2 lbs. lard, 2 lb. gum turpentine, 4 lb. beeswax, 1
lb. calamine. Simmer all together over a slow fire, and it
will be fit for use. Put a little in the wound once a day.
Wash the w6und with warm water and castile soap before
applying the ointment.
Wash for EReducing an Inflamed Wound.
One oz. sulphate of zinc, 1 oz. crotus martes, 2 oz. sugar
of lead, 1 pint water. A sore will not smell bad when this
wash is used.




TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.               137
Wash for Fresh Wounds. A Favorite:Remedy of Great
Value.
One teaspoonful white vitriol, 1 teaspoonful -copperas, 2
teaspoonfuls fine gunpowder; add to 1 quart of boiling water,
and let it stand until cool. If the wound is deep, apply with
a syringe. One of the best of remedies for the purpose
recommended.
Liniment for Open Wounds. A Fine Preparation.
Take sulphate of copper (copperas), 1 oz.; white vitriol, 2
oz.; muriate of soda (salt), 2 oz.; oil linseed, 2 oz.; Orleans
molasses, 8 oz. Boil over a slow fire fifteen minutes, in a
pint of urine, all of the above ingredients. When nearly
cold add 1 oz. of oil of vitriol and 4 oz. spirits of turpentine,
and bottle for use. Apply to the wound with a quill, which
will soon set the wound to discharging, and perform a cure in
a few days. Be careful to keep the wound covered either with
a bandage or a plaster. Should be applied once or twice a
day until it discharges freely.
Magic Healing Preparation.
Burnt alum, 2 oz.; prepared chalk, 1 oz.; pulverized gum
camphor, 1 dram; calamine, pulverized, 2 drams. Mix.
Sprinkle on the sore. Its effect will be apparently wonderful, healing a simple wound in a few hours.
It is well to mention that matter in deep wounds always
lodges or runs to the bottom. IIence, in treating such they
must be either opened up to the bottom or syringed out carefully. First sponge out with soap and water, then inject the
medicine from a syringe. If there is proud flesh, sprinkle on
blue vitriol, powdered, or any caustic.
Great latitude is necessary in the treatment of wounds. It
is assumed the reader is capable of using some judgment. I
give remedies of the greatest value, and if any prudence is
shown in their use success must result. I would caution in one
respect: do not doctor a wound too much. As a rule, do not
dress a wound but once, or at most twice a day.




138             TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.
To Cure an Indolent Ulcer.
Take the green scum that gathers on the water in the frogponds in the spring and summer; boil over a slow fire; then
add fresh butter to the consistence of an ointment. This
is an Indian remedy; cured an ulcer of seventeen years standing that had resisted all other treatment.
Liniment for Foul Ulcers. Good.
Sulphate of copper, 1 oz.; nitric acid, 12 oz.; water, 8 to
12 oz.
Cooling Liniment for External Inflammation. Good.
Goulard extract, 1 oz.; vinegar, 2 oz.; spirits of wine, 3
oz.; water, 12 pints. Apply with a bandage.
For Inflamed Legg Galled Shoulders or Back. A Really
Good Thing.
Sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; vinegar, 4 oz.; spirits of wine, 2 oz.;
tincture arnica, 2 drams; water, 1 pint. Mix, and bathe
with it often and thoroughly.
A Very Active Blister.
Two drams corrosive sublimate, 1 oz. lard, 2 oz. tar, 2
drams cantharides. Rub and mix well together. Good for
spavins, ringbones, curbs, &c.
Powerful Absorbing Blister.
Equal parts of beniodide of mercury and cantharides, three
parts of tar and lard each. Rub in well with the hand for
three mornings, and use lard after to soften and take off the
scab, when it may be repeated if necessary.
For absorbing enlargements, use beniodide of mercury, one
part; from one to three of lard, according to strength desired.
One of the finest remedies for the above enlargements.
The following liniment, taken from  " Stuart's American
Farmer's Horse Book," is highly extolled and used so generally
for blistering, counter irritation, spavins, ringbone, splints,
curbs, corns, thrush, canker, foot rot or weak heels, bruising of




TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.               139
the soles, &c., that I am induced to include it in this part of
mv work:
Corrosive Liniaent.
Take a pint of turpentine, which put in a good strong bottle, adding an ounce of finely pulverized corrosive sublimate
and an ounce of gum camphor. Shake well, and let the mixture stahd for twenty-four hours, when it will be fit for use.
The value of this liniment depends greatly upon the fineness
to which the corrosive sublimate is pulverized. Grind it as
fine as possible in a druggist's mortar; pounding with a hammer will not answer. The object of this pulverization is to
get the substance in such a form that it will-ie readily dissolved by the turpentine.  There are comparatively few
liquids which will dissolve corrosive sublimate, and we claim
to have discovered that turpentine is one of these. Corrosive
sublimate is well known as one of the most violent poisons.
Its combination with turpentine constitutes one of the most
powerful of medicines, increasing in its active properties by
keeping. We believe it to be the most penetrating liniment
in the world. It reaches the seat of disease through any and
all obstacles. It destroys all infection, putridity, ulceration,
old running sores, proud flesh, and all skin and bone diseases
of the horse. It will cure big head and jaw, grease, thrush,
scratches, swelled legs, hoof rot, foot evil, corns, ulceration of
the foot, (navicular disease,) fistula, poll evil, ringbone and
spavin, in their first stages.
In the human subject this liniment has been known to cure
repeatedly those troublesome affections known as tetter and
scald head; but it is to be used with great caution in these
cases, and not at all unless at least ten days old.
Method of using.-Always shake the bottle well before
taking out the stopper.  Pour the liquid into an earthen
vessel, as it corrodes vessels of metal. Apply with a little
mop of soft rag. In all bone affections the liniment is to be
thoroughly dried in by means of a hot iron held close to the
medicated spot, but not close enough to burn the animal.
Particular directions are given, in connection with the description of diseases, how to proceed in reference to quantity and
manner of using the liniment.
Caution.-Keep the materials for making out of the way
of children, as it is a violent poison. Persons unacquainted




140             TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.
with it are sometimes alarmed at the severity with which it
acts upon the skin of the horse.  It inflames, corrodes and
puffs out the skin. For cracked heels, spavin, ringbone, curb,
windgalls, grease heels and all purposes of counter irritation,
Stuart recommends that a little be spread on with a little
sponge or mop. For corns, weak heels, tenderness of the
feet, a diseased condition of the frog and sole, showing want
of healthy secretion, or want of growth, bathe the parts
thoroughly with it, and heat in with a shovel, repeating the
application once a day. He says it is a specific for big leg if
applied once a day.
Note —This is-an active remedy, strongly poisonous.-D. M.
SPRAINS AND BRUISES.
It must be borne in mind, the first object in treating acute
inflammation caused by injury of any kind is to lower the
inflammation. Cold water, or one ounce of sugar of lead to
a pint of water, would be better, and is a remedy of great
value, to be used repeatedly until relief is afforded.
The following is excellent: Saltpeter, 4 oz.; sugar of lead,
1 oz.; muriate of ammonia, 1 oz.; common salt, 1 pint; cold
water, 2 galls. Mix and bathe the parts affected; or keep
constantly wet with the following, which is good: Tincture
arnica, 2 oz.; cold water, 1 quart. This will prevent inflammation or swelling following a bruise or sprain.
Anodyne Stimulating Liniment.
Spirits of hartshorn, 1'2 oz.; sulphuric ether, 1 oz.; spirits
of turpentine, 2 oz.; sweet oil, 3 oz.; oil of cloves, 1A oz.;
chloroform, 1 oz. Put into a strong 8 ounce bottle and cork
tightly; keep in a dark place, or wrap with paper. This liniment relieves pain, and is good for lameness, etc., and for all
cases of strains and soreness. To be well rubbed in.
Oil of turpentine, 1 oz.; tine. opium, 1 oz.; soap liniment,
1 oz.; tinc. capsicum, 2 oz. Stimulating liniment; good for
rheumatism, sprains, etc.
M!tagic Liniment.
Used very generally; good not only for sprains, bruises,
etc., after the acute stage, but a fine counter-irritant for pleu



TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              141
risy, inflammation, etc.: Oil of spike, 2 oz.; organum, 2 oz.;
hemlock, 2 oz.; wormwood, 2 oz.; sweet oil, 4 oz.; spirits
ammonia, 2 oz.; gum camphor, 2 oz.; spirits turpentine, 2 oz.;
proof spirits, 1 quart-90 per cent.  Mix well together, and
bottle tight.
Sweating Liniment for Windgalls, Etc.
Strong mercurial ointment, 2 oz.; camphor, 3 oz.; oil of
rosemary, 2 drams; oil of turpentine, 1 oz. Mix.
Very Strong Sweating Blister, for Windgalls, Curbs,
Splints, Etc.
Beniodide of mercury, /2 to 1 dram; powdered arnica
leaves, 1 dram; soap liniment, 2 oz. Mix.
Very Strong Blister for Spavins, Ringbones, Curbs, Etc.
Finely powdered cantharides, 1 oz.; powdered euphorbium,
2 drams; lard, 1 oz.; tar, 2 oz.
Cough Powder.
Fenugreek, ginger, licorice and bloodroot, equal parts.
Half proportion lobelia and camphor may be added. Dose,
tablespoonful twice a day. For heaves, add more camphor.
Farcy-Cure of.
One-quarter pound sulphur, 34 pound saltpeter, 1 ounce
black antimony. If acute, give one tablespoonful twice a
day. If sub-acute, once or twice a week.
The sum of $50 was repeatedly paid for this prescription.
It is undoubtedly the best preparation ever published for this
dangerous disease. Have been informed repeatedly by subscribers of their curing bad cases of farcy by this remedy.
Cracked IHeels.
Two ounces resin, 2 ounces copperas, 2 ounces alum,
1 ounce beeswax, 1 pint tar, size hen's egg of tallow; boil
over a slow fire, skim off the filth and add the scrapings of
sweet elder a handful; when cool, fit for use.




142            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
This is a remedy of great value; have used it with the
most marked success. This is the best remedy of which the
writer has any knowledge for the cure of cracked heels. It
is a splendid healing preparation for scratches, saddle or collar
galls, or any inflammation of the skin, and is worth many
times the price of this book.
Cure of Scratches.
Four ounces tincture arnica, 4 ounces glycerine. If heels
are cracked badly, add: 1 ounce iodine, 2 ounces tincture
myrrh, X ounce gun powder (powdered fine.) Put all into
a bottle and shake thoroughly; put on two or three times a
day.
In treating scratches, first give a dose of physic, or a few
bran mashes.
Cure of Grease Heels.
One-quarter pound bar lead melted, mix in sulphur while
hot; let it burn until pulverized. Then add a tablespoonful
of hog's lard. Wash the parts and rub on the ointment once
or twice a day. A favorite remedy, and claimed to be very
effective. Given by a physician.
To Reduce Swelling of the Legs and Strengthen the
Tendons after Hard Driving.
A favorite remedy on Long Island. One pint alcohol,
1 ordinary sized beef gall, 1 ounce organum, 1 ounce oil of
spike, 1 ounce gum myrrh, k ounce camphor gum. First
wash and rub clean and dry. Then bathe with the liniment
and rub dry. Then apply again and bandage the leg, being
careful not to bandage too tight.
This is the best liniment for the purpose recommended I
have ever used. It should be kept in every stable.
To 1Recruit a Horse HSide-bound or Otherwise Out of
Sorts.
Nitrate potassa (or saltpeter), 4 ounces; crude antimony,
1 ounce; sulphur, 3 ounces. Nitrate of potassa and antimony should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur and
mix the whole well together. Dose: A tablespoonful of the




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.             143
mixture in a bran mash daily, for a week or two. This is my
favorite preparation when I wish to get in a condition. Its
effect upon a horse out of sorts is sometimes wonderful.
Condition Powders.
Take 1 pound of ginger, 1 ounce of anise seed, pulverized,
1 ounce of fenugreek seed, 2 ounces of ginseng root pulverized,
1 ounce of the seed of sumach berries pulverized, 1 ounce of
antimony; mix it with one pound of brown sugar. This is.
excellent for coughs, colds, or to give a horse an appetite.
To Cure Cough-No. 2. Excellent.
Put all the tar into alcohol it will cut, and add one-third in
quantity of tincture belladonna. Dose: From one to two
teaspoonfuls once or twice a day. Very good.
To Cure Cough-No. 3.
Take tartar emetic, 1 ounce; resin, 2 ounces; bloodroot,
1 ounce; salts of tartar, 2 ounces; ginger, 2 ounces. Mix,
and give a teaspoonful three times a day, in the feed.
For Fresh Strains, Etc.
Carbonate ammonia, 2 ounces; apple vinegar, 2 gill. Rub
in well. An excellent remedy.
Preparation to Kill Lice on Horses.
One ounce of arsenic to a pail of soft water. The horse
should be washed thoroughly in some warm place. It is not
known to many that hen lice and common human body lice
grow on horses with great rapidity. This remedy is a sure
cure, and is invaluable.
Healing Ointmnent for Cuts, Galls, Etc. Good.
Oxide of zinc, pulverized fine, 4 drams; carbolic acid, 6
grains; lard, 1 ounce. Melt the lard and stir in, the zinc.
Add the carbolic acid and mix thoroughly. Apply once or
twice a day to the cut or injury. Will cause a healthy discharge from a foul ulcer.




141             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
Healing Ointment for Thvrushl Saddle Galls, Etc. A Good
Thing.
Two ounces blue vitriol, 1 ounce white vitriol, powdered
finely as possible and rubbed down with one pound of tar and
two pounds of lard.
Opthalmy Simple.
Inflammation of the eyes frequently occurs in young horses
soon after stabling.
Symptoms.-A watery discharge from    the [eye, eyelids
partly closed, membrane of lid on under side much reddened.
Treatment.-Give the following ball, and bleed from the
angular vein under the eye, allowing it to bleed until it stops
from the coagulation of the blood: Barbadoes aloes, 6 drams;
nitrate potassa, 2 drams; tartrate of antimony, 1 dram. Mix
with molasses or honey in one ball. Bathe the eye with a
solution as follows: Laudanum, 1 oz.; rain water, 1 pint;
mix. Or: Acetate of lead, 1 dram; sulphate of zinc, 2 dram;
rain water, 3 pints. Mix for use. Either of the above may
be applied With a soft sponge two or three times a day.
Specific Opthalmy, (1Ifoon Blindness.)
Symptoms.-Membranes of the eye reddened, opacity, or
white film over the eyeball, watery discharges from the eyes,
which are partially closed. This disease is seldom  cured
effectually, but the eyes may be cleared up and the attacks
warded off for some time by the following treatment: Open
the bowels with the following ball: Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz.:
gentian, pulverized, 2 drams; niter,'pulverized, 2 drams. Mix
with molasses for one ball. Give night and morning one-half
dram doses of colchicum root in the feed, which should be
mashes, and bathe the eye with the following wash: Laudanum, 1 oz.; rain water, 1 pint. Mix, and bathe the eye two
or three times a day. Or: Extract belladonna, 1 dram; rain
water, 1 pint. Mix and use in like manner.
Eye Wash.
Take three hens' eggs and break them into a quart of clear,
cold rain water; stir until a thorough mixture is effected;
boil over a slow fire, stirring every few minutes; add half an




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.              145
ounce of sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol;) continue the boiling
a short time, and the compound is ready for use. In this
preparation a solid substance, or curd, is precipitated or thrown
down, and a liquid solution rests upon the top. This is the
best wash for the sore eyes of either man or beast that was
ever made. The curd applied to the inflamed eye at night
will draw the fever and soreness nearly all out by morning.
After two or three days the water should be strained from
the curd and put into a bottle for future use. This eye wash
is invaluable. No physician or druggist has ever discovered
a medicine of the kind equal to it. When applied to the
human eye it should be diluted.
Hoof Liniment for Contracted or Sore Feet. One of the
Very Best Remedies.
Venice turpentine, 2 pint; aqua ammonia, 2 oz; salts of
niter, 1 oz.; benzine, 1 oz.; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to the
edge of the hair and all over the hoof once a day for a week;
after that, for a week or two, three or four times a week, as
may be necessary.
Grease Heels.
This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge from the heels
of the horse. The skin becomes hot, tender' and swollen.
The acrid character of the discharge often causes large portions of the skin to slough away, leaving an ugly sore behind.
Treatment.-Open the bowels with the following ball:
Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz.; pulverized gentian root, 2 drams;
pulverized ginger, 1 dram; water sufficient to make the ball.
Wash the parts well, and poultice for two or three days with the
following: Flax seed meal mixed with a solution of 2 drams
sulphate of zinc to a pint of water, which keep clean, and
bathe frequently with glycerine, or the solution of zinc; or a
solution of the chloride of lime may be used; or the bichloride of mercury may be used in inveterate cases with good
results, provided it is not repeated oftener than once a week.
Thrush.
This is a rotting of the frog, with a discharge of matter
from the cleft or division of the frog, occasionally producing
lameness. The treatment is simple and effectual..  ash the
7




146             TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
parts well with soap and water, then apply powdered sulphate
of copper to the parts, and fill up all the cavities with cotton,
packed in so as to keep out all dirt. This process should be
repeated in a few days if necessary.
Cankler.
This is.a more aggravated form of thrush, often proving
very troublesome to manage. It is a continuation of the
thrush between the horny frog and the internal structures of
the foot, causing separation between them.
Treatment.-Cut away all the horn which has been separated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply the following ointment: Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, melt
over a slow fire, and add sulphuric acid very slowly until
ebullition (boiling) ceases. Or use: Collodion, 2 oz.; castor
oil, 1 oz. Mix and apply to the parts. The foot must be
protected from dirt by a bandage or a leathern boot.
Warts.
These fungous growths appear in the horse most frequently
about the mouth, nose and lips, but they are occasionally found
upon other parts of the body. They ase sometimes found in
large numbers about the lips of colts, and are generally rubbed
off or drop off. If, however, they grow large and become
deeply rooted, they may be cut off by passing a needle
through the center; armed with a double thread, and tied
tightly around the neck on each side. This prevents the possibility of the ligatures being rubbed off. Or they may be
painted over with the per-manganate of potash, a few applications of which will entirely destroy warts of a large size; or
they may be removed with a knife.
Profuse Staling.
The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diuretic
medicines, as saltpeter, resin, &c. Unwholesome food will
sometimes produce it.
Treatment.-Give one of the following balls every night:
Powdered opium, 2 oz.; powdered kino, 1 oz.; prepared
chalk, 1 oz. Mix with molasses, and make six balls.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.               147
Bloody Urine
Is generally the result of injuries of the loins, unwholesome
food, violent exercise, &c.
Treatment.-Give plenty linseed tea to drink; if the animal
refuses it, drench him. Give internally, once a day, one of
the following pills: Sugar of lead, 1 oz.; linseed meal, 2 oz.
Mix with molasses, and divide into eight parts.
Quitter.
This is a formation of pus between the hoof and the soft
structure within; a sore at the coronet or upper part of the
foot, which at first is a hard, smooth tumor, soon becoming
soft, and breaks, discharging quantities of pus.
Treatment.-Poultice the foot for several days with flax
seed meal. As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut away all
loose portions, but no more, and inject with a syringe either
of the following once a day: Chloride of zinc, 2 drams, dissolved in a pint of water; or, sulphate of zinc, 12 drams, in
a pint of water; or, nitrate of silver, 2 drams, in a pint of
water; or glycerine may be used with advantage. Before
using the wash have the foot well cleaned with castile soap
and water.
IMange.
Take the horse in the sun and scrub him thoroughly all
over with castile soap and water, then wash him well from
head to tail with gas water, in which put 2 drams white hellebore to the gallon. He must now be put in another stall,
distant from the one in which he has been standing.  Thus
treated, it rarely requires more than one washing to effect a
permanent cure. The harness should be thoroughly scrubbed
and put away for six or eight weeks. These precautions are
necessary to success in this otherwise troublesome disease.
No. 2.-Oil turpentine, 4 oz.; oil tar, 4 oz.; linseed oil, 6
oz. Mix.
A Shoulder Strain.
This is caused by severe blows, strains or falls, &c.
Symptoms.-The animal drags the leg, with the toe on the
ground, and cannot raise the foot.




148            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
Treantent.-Local bleeding is very effectual, with a purging ball. Fomenting the shoulder with hot water will be
found useful in two or. three. days. The following liniment
should be applied two or three times a day: Laudanum, 1
oz.; spirits. camphor, 1 oz.; tincture myrrh, 1 oz.; castile
soap, 1 oz.; alcohol, 1 pint. Mix for use. Or: Linseed oil,
1 pint; oil turpentine, 2 oz.; spirits hartshorn, 3 oz. Mix,
shake well, and use'once' a day for three or four days.
Nasal Gleet.
This is a chronic discharge from one or both nostrils, of a
whitish, muco-purulent matter, the result usually of neglected
catarrh. The general health of the animal does not seem to
suffer; he looks well, feeds well and works well, yet we have
this discharge, which is caused by weakness in the secretory
vessels of the lining membrane of the nose.
The successful treatment in all cases where this disorder
has existed has been on the tonic principle. Bleeding and
purging are positively injurious. Give one of the following
powders night and morning: Seaquin-chloride of iron, 2 oz.;
powdered cinnamon, 1 oz. Mix and divide into four powders.
Or: Carbonate of iron, pulverized gentian and pulverized
quassia, of each 1 oz. Divide into four powders. Or: Nux
vomica, pulverized, 2 oz.; linseed meal, 2 oz. Divide into
eight powders.  Another good preparation is: Muriate of
Barytes, 2 oz.; linseed meal, 1 oz. Divide into eight powders.
Caustics
Are substances which burn away the tissues of the body by
decomposition of their elements, and are valuable to destroy
fungus growth and set up healthy action.
Corrosive sublimate, in powder, acts energetically.
Nitrate of silver is excellent to lower granulation.
Sulphate of copper, not so strong as the above, but good.
Chloride of zinc is a powerful caustic. It may be used in
sinuses, in solution, 7 drams in a pint of water.
Milder Caustics.
Verdigris, either in powder or mixed with lard, as an ointment, in proportion of one to three.




TREATMENT OF DISEASES.             149
Butter of Antimony.-For corns, canker, indisposition of
the sole to secrete healthy horn, wounds in the foot not
attended by healthy action, and for every case where the
superficial application of a caustic is needed, the chloride of
antimony (butter of antimony) is one of the very best.
Sticking-Plaster, for Cuts or Wounds.
Burgundy pitch, 4 oz.; tallow, 2 oz. Melt the articles
together, and spread on linen or cloth while hot. Cut in
strips of proper length and width, and draw  the wound
together; warm the strips and apply them. Clip the hair
short where the plaster is to be applied.
To Abate Swielling Caused by an Injury.
Take common wormwood, 2 oz.; New England Rum, 1
quart. Steep the wormwood in the liquor and apply thoroughly.
I enclose the following receipt as one of reputed great value
for the cure of RINGBONES and SPAVINS. Will take off the
enlargement. One hundred dollars could not buy this recipe,
and the owner deemed himself in possession of the best remedy
in the world. It is one of the best of this class of remedies.
Rlingbone Liniment.
First.-Alcohol, 14 oz.; iodine, 304 grains; bichloride of
mercury, 150 grains. Let stand in a sand bath twenty-two
hours, then add 230 drops croton oil; let stand in sand bath
twenty-two hours longer, then bottle for use.
Powder for Spavins and ISingbones.
Quicksilver, 14 oz.; nitric acid, 7 oz.; stir one minute;
cantharides, 7 drams; stir five minutes; sulphuric acid, 7 oz.;
stir three minutes; 50 drops of the above liniment.  Let
stand five hours, stir every half hour, then add 7 oz. prepared
chalk.
First shave the hair off the "bunch," then apply the lini7*




150            TREATMENT OF DISEASES.
ment with a lather brush. Sprinkle a little of the powder on
paper, and rub on, after washing with the liniment. When
the bunch is reduced two-thirds, wash with warm water and
castile soap. In twenty-four hours grease.
This will cure, but it is sure to blemish.




CONTENTS.
PsaE.
Adapting Efforts to Circumstances...... 18
Appliances for Subjection................ 66
Appyling War Bridle..............  66
Anodyne Liniment............  140
Absorbing Blister — Powerful.........  138
Active Blister......         138
Applying Bandage..............117
Be Uniform in Language..............  9
Bad Effects of Fright..............  14
Bitting.......  23
Bitting Harness...................  24
Breaking Kickers......     43
Balking................  50
Breaking the Halter Puller..   5
Breeding..........   72
Bonner's Plan of Feeding Dexter............  80
Blacksmiths' Faults................ 95
Bar Shoe for Corns................  102
Broken Wind................ 123
Bone Spavin...............  126
Blood Spavin....  ~..........128
Bleeding..............34
Bog  Spavin..................... 128
Bloody Urine.........    147
Care in Breeding................  14
Counteracting Effects of Fright.............15
Caution in Whipping........ 16
Courage in Handling Horses.............. 16
Correcting Errors.................. 19
Correcting Bad *Habits.................  40
Cure for Balking................ 54
Cribbing...................  60
Cure for Cribbing..................  61
Cure a Trotter of Breaking................  71




152             CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Carrots for Feeding................... 79
Cuts Showing Formation of the Foot......... 89
Cuts Showing Formation of the Leg...........90
Contraction of the Feet.................96
Convex Shoe for Contracted Feet............. 9
Corns........................100
Care of the Feet....................105
Colic.........................  107
Colic and Inflammation of Bowels Contrasted......  108
Congestion ofthe Lungs................  113
Catarrh or Cold....................  115
Cure for Cold......................116
Cure for Inflammation of Bowels....... 118
Cure for Heaves....................124
Cure for Locked Jaw................  126
Curbs...................129
Coffin Joint Lameness................. 130
Cure for Sweeny...................132
Cuts and Wounds...................  136
Cure for Indolent Ulcers.................  138
Corrosive Liniment...................  139
Cough Powder..................... 141
Cracked Heels.................. 141
Condition Powders.................. 143
Cure for Cough-No. 2................ 143
Canker......................        146
Caustics...................148
Driving the Colt.................... 26
Driving to Wagon................... 27
Double Driving.................... 28
Diseases of the Feet................... 97
Different Forms of Shoes................ 104
Diseases and their Treatment.............. 107
Education of Horses.................  5
Extremes of Intelligence and Disposition.........  10
Extreme Cases of Fear................. 38
Effect of Kindness..................  53
Eight Tailed Bandage.................  117
Eye Wash-Excellent................. 144
Fear..........................31
Fear of a Robe...................  34




CONTENTS.          153
PAGE.
Fear of Umbrella, or Sound of a Gun..........  34
Fear of Railroad Cars................ 35
Fear of Objects while Driving...........  35
Four Ring Bit....................67
Foot Strap for Driving................  68
Food and Feeding................  77
Fitting the Shoes....................92
Faults of Blacksmiths..................95
Flatulent Colic....................  109
Founder........................121
Favorite Remedies for Heaves.............  125
Good Remedy for Colic............... 110
Grease Heels-Cure for................. 142
Grease Heels......................145
Handling Vicious Horses....       17
Haltering  the Colt.....  21
Hitching the Colt...........    22
Harnessing the Colt..................  25
Hitching to Wagon Poles................  26
Handling the Feet.................. 30
Hints on Breeding...................73
Hints on Watering................... 81
Hints on Shoeing...................  91
How to Nail a Shoe Properly..............  96
Heaves.................... 123
How to Bleed a Horse...............134
Heave Powders...................  141
Healing Ointment for Cuts, Galls, etc.......... 143
Hoof Liniment for Contracted or Sore Feet..... 145
Interfering..................1... 02
Interfering Shoe...............  102
Interfering Pad.........'........... 103
Inflammation of the Luigs...............111
Inflammation of the Bowels...............118
Inflammation of the Kidneys..............119
Inflammation of the Bladder........... 20
Inflammation of the Brain............... 120
Kicking in Harness..............  43
Kicking Straps...............  45
Kicking while Harnessing...............  47
Kicking while Grooming.............. 48




154             CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Kicking while Shoeing.................  48
Kicking while in the Stall...............  56
Kicking against the Stall..............  64
Kicking Cows..................   65
Laminitis....................... 121
Liniment for Open Wounds...............137
Liniment for Foul Ulcers..............138
Liniment for Inflammation...............138
Liniment for Galled Shoulders and Back......... 138
Lameness from  Injuries of the Feet...........  106
Must See Objects from  Different Positions........ 36
Mounting a Horse.................   29
Make Follow with Whip...............  82
Mad Staggers................      121
Magic Healing Preparation...........137
Moon Blindness............      144
Mange........................47
Nailing the Shoes.............  94
Navicular Disease...................  130
Nasal Gleet...................     148
Overcoming Fear..............     32
Overdraw Check...................   46
Oats vs. Corn for Feed.................78
Opening an Abscess.................  117
Preface................           5
Principles of Mental Control............  7
Pole Applied for Balkers...........  55
Pulling on the Halter...............  58
Prevent Getting Cast in Stall...... 62
Prevent Jumping Fences.............  63
Putting Tongue Out of Mouth....... 62
Pawing in the Stall..................  64
Pricking in Shoeing...............  103
Pleurisy..................... 111
Physicing..................  135
Preparation for Wounds................  136
Profuse Staling.................... 146
Powder for Spavins and Ringbones............149
Quarter Crack..................101
Quitter......................... 147
Rules in Breeding.............  13




CONTENTS.           155
PAGE.
Riding the Colt..................... 29
Running Away.....................   40
Running Back.....................42
Remarks on Shoeing..................88
Ringbone.......................   126
Retention of Urine...................132
Reduce Swelling of Legs after Hard Driving...... 142
Ringbone Liniment..................  149
Short Lessons, but Thorough............... 10
Special Remarks on Subjection..............  38
Safety Shafts......................39
Suggestions on Breeding...72
Shoeing....................87
Structure of the Foot..................  89
Symptoms of Colic.................  107
Spasmodic Colic...................107
Symptoms of Pleurisy.112
Symptoms of Inflammation of Lungs........... 112
Symptoms of Pneumonia................114
Symptoms of Inflammation of Bowels...... 118
Symptoms of Worms.........        133
Strangles...                       116
Staggers........................ 121
Spavin........................126
Splints........................     129
Sweeny....................... 131
Scours, or Purging..........   132
Sprains and Bruises................  140
Sweating Liniment for Windgalls, etc.......... 141
Sweating Blister for Curbs, Splints, etc...... 141
Strong Blister for Spavins, Ringbones, etc......   141
Scratches, Cure for.................142
Simple Opthalmy..............144
Specific Opthalmy...................  144
Shoulder Strains............      147
Sticking Plaster for Cuts, Wounds, etc...........  149
Treat According to Disposition.........12
Training the Wild Colt.................20
Turning Around...................   41
Test Kickers Repeatedly............... 44
To Work a Balker Single................ 56




156           CONTENTS.
PAGE.
To Cure Biting and Striking............... 59
The Jumper......................   64
Training in the Trot................. 69
Trotting........................ 69
The Breeding Mare..................74
Testing Brood Mares................75
Teaching Tricks....................  82
Teaching to Follow..........82
Teaching to Lie Down.................  84
Teaching to Sit Up..................   84
Teaching to Make a Bow...............  85
Teaching to say Yes and No..............  85
Teaching to Kiss You.................  85
Teaching Horse to Dance........86
Teaching Horse to Waltz...............  86
The Hoof, Cuts of....................88
Treating  Contracted Feet................  99
Tyrrel's Patent Shoe for Contracted Feet......... 100
Treatment for Corns................101
Treatment for Sore Feet...............  105
Typhoid Pneumonia................  114
Treatment for Strangles...............  117
Treatment for Founder.................  122
Tetanus, or Locked Jaw................ 125
Treatment for Bone Spavin..........  127
Treatment for Ringbone.................  128
Thoroughpin...................... 128
Thumps.................... 133
Tape W orms..................... 133
Thrush...................    145
To Abate Swellings from  Injuries............ 149
Using Blinders.................. -36
War  Bridle...................... 65
Weak Heels..................... 104
Whipping Dangerous................ 15
Watering......................  80
Worms....................     133
Wash for Inflamed Wounds...............  136
Wash for Fresh Wounds...............137
Warts......................  146