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11




THE


PHILIPPINE
ISLANDS
ILLUSTRATED
By
WILLIAM D. BOYCE


PUBLISHER OF "TIHE SATURDAY BLADE," "CHICAGO LEDGER,"
"THE FARMING BUSINESS, AND THE "INDIANA
DAILY TIMES."
RAND McNALLY & COMPANY


CHICAGO


NEW YORK




COPYRIGHT, 1914
BY
W. D. BOYCE




3C   f t c.  *
c,2'  J  Ic
INTRODUCTION
FEW citizens of the United States, I believe, fully appreciate the fact that the Philippine Islands are made up of
3,14I separate islands, and contain 76,800,000 acres of land.
Few of them wholly realize, too, that this vast acreage is largely
made up of valuable timber and good soil for the production
of sugar, tobacco, corn, hemp, rice, fruits and other sources of
wealth and sustenance for the human family. They are also,
I believe, only vaguely aware of the fact that this splendid
possession is just as much a part of the United States as Kansas or Alaska, and, further, they are only partly awake to the
truth that, to gratify political party promises, there is a movement under way to hand this vast property of theirs back to
the ignorant natives of the Islands, free and without cost.
Comparatively few people in the United States, in my opinion, have ever seriously weighed the fact of our ownership
of these Islands and what that ownership means and what it
has cost us. In the first place, the Philippine Islands cost the
people of the United States a pro rata share, amounting to
many million dollars, of the enormous expense of the Spanish-American War; second, upon taking over the Islands we
paid Spain $20,000,000 from the United States Treasury, and
paid for the transportation of the Spanish soldiers back to
Spain, all of which was contributed by the taxes of the people;
third, in order to hold the Islands, we spent $170,ooo,ooo in
stamping out the Aguinaldo rebellion, besides a payment of
hundreds of American lives. The cost of local government
and improvements has been paid by the people of the Islands,
the same as any State or city in the Union pays its separate
expenses. Then, unquestionably, the Philippine Islands are
the property of the people of the United States, and I protest
against the legal or moral right of any political party or group
of men to hand over the people's property to others, unless upon
receipt of full compensation or the voluntary consent of all the
owners.
That the public may have a fuller realization of the magnivii




viii


INTRODUCTION


tude of our Philippine possessions, of the scope of our work
there and how great would be the folly of intrusting these
people with self-government, has been my object in publishing
this book. It is my belief that if readers will carefully weigh
and consider what follows in these pages, they will be aided
to a larger view of the value of the Philippines, and realize
how unwise and unjust it would be to cut adrift these halfcivilized children of nature, trusting alone to luck that they
may swim rather than sink in the sea of difficulties that surround the most hazardous of all human tasks-self-government.
Because of the importance of the matter and the fact
that invisible influences, political and private, are working in
both the lower and upper houses of the United States Congress in both parties to force these valuable Islands out of the
hands of 'their real owners-the American people-I am
reprinting in this smaller form the Philippine section of my
larger work, United States Colonies and Dependencies.  In
that are gathered the results of my observations and investigations in Porto Rico, Alaska, the Hawaiian Islands, Guam, the
Philippines, the Panama Canal Zone, and interesting matter
relative to our dependencies, Cuba, Haiti, the Dominican
Republic and the Republic of Panama. The gathering of this
material involved a special trip of 8,ooo miles to Alaska, visits
to Porto Rico, the West Indies and the Panama Canal, and a
journey around the world.   Altogether, I traveled about
50,000 miles in securing the photographs and information used
in my complete work, United States Colonies and Dependencies.
The matter herein contained first appeared in The Saturday
Blade, one of our four publications. If widening of human
knowledge and a better capacity for the solving of our national
problems are in any degree the result of this or my larger book,
I shall count myself well paid. It certainly has given me a
broader and more certain understanding of the world, and a
larger love for my own country.
Very truly,
W. D. BOYCE.




CONTENTS
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
OHAPTER
I. SOME STRAY PACIFIC ISLES
II. DOCKING AT MANILA
III. MANILA, TITE LAYER CAKE
IV. OUR WORK IN MANILA
V. AMERICAN LIFE IN MANILA
VI. AROUND TIE GREAT LAKE
VII. DOWN IN BATANGAS.
VIII. THE TAIL END OF LUZON
IX. HISTORIC CAVITE 
X. OUR LITTLE NINE-MILLION-DOLLAR ROAD
XI. THE DOG-EATING IGOROTS
XII. TIE CHAMPION TERRACE BUILDERS
XIII. THE HEAD-HUNTERS OF LUZON
XIV. WHERE EVERYBODY SMOKES
XV. MAKING CONVICTS INTO MEN
XVI. COASTING THE VISAYAN ISLANDS
XVII. WHERE MAGELLAN WAS KILLED
XVIII. MINDANAO.   -
XIX. ACROSS MORO LAND 
XX. THE DATOS OF MORO LAND
XXI. BLOOD-SOAKED JOLO. 
XXII. THE SULTAN OF SULU
XXIII. WHAT WE SHOULD DO 


IZAGE


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39
48
57
64
74
83
91
99
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117
126
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141
15
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ix




I




THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


Number of islands 3,141, total area I20,000 square milesPopulation, 1913, estimated, 8,831,000; 25,000 Americans
and Europeans (including troops), 40,000 Chinese, balance
mostly Malayan, with some tribes of Negritos-Dominant
religion Roman Catholic, with many Mohammedans and
725,000 Pagans-Chief resources rice, copra, hemp, sugar,
corn, tobacco, timber, with some gold and iron-Total imports, 1913, $56,327,533, exports $53,683,326; imports from
United States, $25,646,876; exports to the United States,
$I9,970,642-Cultivated area, I913, 5,717,598 acres, with
crop value of $77,456,471-Forest area, 40,000 square miles
-Capital, Manila, population, 250,000 -United States
troops in Islands, I2,ooo; native infantry, 5,ooo-Governor,
Francis Burton Harrison.
CHAPTER I.
SOME STRAY PACIFIC ISLES.
ONOLULU, the Hawaiian capital, faded into the distance as we stood watching on the steamer's deck. Then
the Island of Oahu dropped out of sight. The long, waveplowing course to the Far East had begun. I thought I had
seen the last of the Hawaiian group when the captain, a jolly
old salt-British born but a naturalized American-surprised
me by remarking:
"We'll pass Laysan Island in a couple of days. It's 700
miles to the west and belongs to the Hawaiian archipelago.
Then there's Lisianski Island. Ever heard of it? Well, it's in
the reservation, too. Uncle Sam has been annexing stray
islands in the Pacific for a number of years. They are all sizes,
from mere coral reefs to real food producers. They'll all come
in handy some of these days. An assortment of islands is a
fine thing to carry in stock. We use one of the Midways and
Guam now as cable stations."
"What do they raise on Laysan?" I inquired.
I




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6


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


from the start, for the Spaniards, besides "marking them for
life," brought them rats, flies, mosquitoes, and a batch of
strange diseases and made the place into a penal colony.
Guam was a Spanish possession until June 30, I898, when
it was captured by Captain Glass of the United States cruiser
Charleston. On his way to Manila with several troopships, he
had been instructed to take Guam. He had been told that the
island's seaport was protected by two forts and on its arrival
the Charleston fired a number of shots to unmask the batteries.
At last a small rowboat, flying the Spanish flag, put out from
the shore and landed the commander of the forts on the cruiser.
He begged pardon for not having returned their salute, as he
was out of powder. We had not hit the fort. The poor fellow
nearly lost his breath when Captain Glass informed him that
the United States was at war with Spain, and that the Charleston would wreck the forts, if need be. As soon as he recovered
from the shock he surrendered. At the close of the war the
island was formally ceded to us and Spain held out the rest
of the group. Being in need of ready money to clear away
the wreckage, she sold the lesser Ladrones to Germany for
$2,500,000.
In taking over Guam we secured the only island of the
group with a good harbor. When we counted noses in I9go
we found there were Io,ooo inhabitants. Ten years later there
were 12,000.
The title of Governor was well established, for from the
time it was colonized by the Spaniards in I668 until the
beginning of our rule, exactly fifty-seven varieties of Spanish
Governors had held sway on Guam. Since then we have sent
over ten Governors, but all of one variety, all high-class naval
officers who have done everything in their power to promote
the health, wealth and prosperity of the people. The Government has put up liberally, for every year's naval appropriation
carries quite a sum for the upkeep of Guam.
Our chief object in taking the island was to secure a landing
place for the trans-Pacific cable. The cable is still its excuse
for living, for today four lines land at Sumay, not far from the




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CHAPTER II.


DOCKING AT MANILA.
E AMERICANS discovered the Philippines on a fair
May Day in I898, when Dewey sailed into Manila Bay.
Before then we did not even know where our clotheslines came
from. Now Manila, capital of our possessions in the Far East,
which we no longer spell with two l's, occupies the center of
the stage.
If you are working for Uncle Sam, you came to the
Philippines on a U. S. army transport for $I a day from San
Francisco via Honolulu and Guam. It takes you about twentyeight days. If you are just an ordinary traveler, you come via
Japan, the voyage, including port stops, averaging twenty-six
days. Some steamers go via China, which means five to seven
days longer.
Sailing from Nagasaki in southern Japan on a Friday
night, you enter Manila Bay on Tuesday morning, unless you
are delayed by a typhoon. The typhoon season on the China
Sea begins in June and lasts until October. September is the
worst month. We got into the tail end of a typhoon on the
voyage to Manila and, from the sample, we were not eager
for the full exhibit. The wind howled about the ship as though
all the lost demons were loose and the great craft pitched and
creaked in alarming fashion.
The first you see of the Philippines is the light on northernmost Luzon, and it is then a twenty-four hours' journey to
Manila.
The island of Luzon on which Manila is situated, is the
largest of the Philippine group, Mindanao being second in size.
There are over 3,000 islands in the archipelago and only about
I,6oo of them have been named. The main ones, going south
from  Luzon to Mindanao, are Mindoro, Masbate, Samar.
10




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


II


Panay, Negros, Cebu, Leyte, Palawan and Bohol. Between
Mindanao and Borneo stretch the islands of the Sulu archipelago, included in the Philippines.
The Philippine archipelago as a whole is about opposite the
coast from Vera Cruz, Mexico, to the Panama-Colombian
border in the New World; and it faces Indo-China and the
Malay Peninsula in the Old World. The Philippines are only a
few hundred miles from the Asiatic shore and are really a
broken-off fringe of that continent. In area they are nearly
twice the size of the New England States and larger than the
British Isles.
We hear of these Islands first through old Chinese records
when Mongol junks sailed over here in the thirteenth century,
about the time that Marco Polo visited China. Magellan, with
the flag of Spain, came next in 1521, meeting death as the price
of his discovery. Del Cano followed, also in the name of
Spain, but only looked in and sailed away. The Islands were
named for Philip II., and the Spaniards spell it with an "F"Felipe, hence the Spanish word Filipinos. We Anglo-Saxons
spell the country with a "P"-Philippines, and the people with
an "F"-Filipinos, with our usual irregularity in such matters.
Legaspi was the real conqueror of the Islands. He sailed
over from New Spain (Mexico) in 1565 and it was a case of
the sword and the cross as in Latin America, for with him
came Urdaneta, the priest. On the island of Luzon they found
the most civilized of the many Malay tribes occupying the
archipelago. They were the Tagalogs, a trading people, who
had developed quite an enlightened form of government, and
these are the Filipinos who form the dominant class today.
Spanish conquest spread over the Islands and these alone of all
the people of the Far East, were Christianized. Today there
are eight so-called Christian tribes numbering, in rough figures,
7,000,000. About one-sixth of these are Tagalogs of southern
Luzon. There are 360,000 pagans, known as the "Wild
Tribes," and 275,000 Mohammedan Moros.
These, then, are the Filipinos we first came to know in
1898:




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I4


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


neared the breakwater, protecting the inner harbor, too late to
be received by the port doctor, so had to lie off the city all
night.  Its sparkling lights, festooning the shore, looked
alluring, although some of the passengers were disappointed
that the lights did not climb the hills as in Hong Kong, where
the incandescents meet the stars. Manila was evidently a
flat city.
Next morning, after the American doctor, clad in khaki,
had looked at our tongues, we steamed past the breakwater and
straight up to one of five great docks. The ship drew thirty
feet. This then was American work, a mighty work which
impresses the newcomer. In I906, the transport Logan was
laid alongside one of these new piers, the first time a vessel of
equal draught had tied up to a port in this part of the world.
Manila Bay is now considered the best in the Orient, a haven
from the severest typhoons. We have spent $5,ooo,ooo on
harbor improvements in this port alone, and it is worth it.
Think of Uncle Sam owning the best port in the Orient!
A park-like expanse along the waterfront, a breathing space
between city and sea, also pleases the visitor. This is all
reclaimed land, a stretch one and one-fourth miles long and
one-third of a mile wide, extending from the Malec6n Drive
to the bay.
"What is that fine new building in the midst of the park?"
I asked.
"That is the New Manila Hotel," some one answered. "It
is a year old and cost $450,000. Uncle Sam advanced twothirds of the money and took a mortgage. A good many
Government officials live there, and army folks."
Manila is the only port in the entire Orient without a charge
for tonnage, harbor or light dues, but you cannot get past the
customs. They need the revenue. Many are under the impression that articles made in Europe on which duty has been
paid in the U. S. A. can be brought into the Philippines without
payment of extra duty. But this is not the case. Philippine
duty must also be paid. And again, in going the other way,
duty paid on articles here-Japanese purchases, for instance



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If you arrive with ti e f ar that the Americans have effaced
all the local color, you ar immediately reassured, for right
alon side th calesas and ca romata are art drawn by carabaa, the oxen of the Orient, great clumsy water buffaloes which
look, for all the world, lii e cousins of the hippopotamus. They
waddle along at a snail-like pace and their drivers, quatting on
the produce, are scantily clad, brown-skinned Malays, not a
jot changed since Magellan crossed the ocean In fact, I think
the same type lived here in 300 B. C.
The New Manila I otel was the fine t-lookYig hostelry I
had seen in the tropical On ut. The room are big and airy
and the dining room overlooks the bay There is also a splendid
roof garden. Th most distinctiv features are the hardwood
floors and shell windows, both typical of the Philippines and
most artistic. The windows consist of hardwood frames, contaming many small latti ework squares into which thin, flat,
translucent seashells have be n fitted. These windows slide in
grooves on the railings. shuttng out rain and heat and temper
ing the lare of the tropics. It is estimated that 5,,ooo
4
ii
4
OUS SHOWING TII HELL WINDOWS MANILA




i8             PHILIPJ'I ~ I L NI)
IJE AL VAULTS, PALO C MET RY  ANILA.
shells are used for this purpose in Manla alone each year
TI e supply is diiWnishing.
Before starting out to e the city, I took bird's ye view
from the hotel roof. XV stward sparki d the Bay of Manila
thirty ships afloat in its 'un r harbor and a great "Jap' liner
tied up to one of the piers. Southward vas the fan ous
Luneta, the playground of Manilans as popular now as during
the Spani h reg e; society gathers here in the late afternoon
to Ii ten to the music of the constabulary b ud, Eastward
tretched the city, built in part and beautified by Am ricans.
But the Mecca of mo t travelers lies to the north in Old
Maui, the romanti town of Spanish days, surrounded by
hoary wall




CHAP ER IlL
MANIlA VHF LAYIR cAKE.
M ANILA is a layer cake. The caramel-colored Malay
form the bottom layer. The next fill r is sixteenth
century Spanish. 1 hen comes the blend of these, Spanish
and 1\lalay, with a strong dash of Chinese the upper-class
ilipino. The tol) layer, indnding the c earn, is good old
men an. And this is what makes Manila so interesting to the
traveler-the diversified scen s and custot is A a city xvhich is
Oriental, Europe n and Yankee, thirte nth sixte nth and
twentieth entnries combined.
Let us start out in ondo, the section ii cluded within the
city limits which has changed least since Spanish ships sailed
into Manila Bay just 343 years ago. Under the very same
name, ondo then formed an independent territory, as did its
n ighbor, 'Maynila 'across the Pasig River, Today, as then,
it con ists of a motley array of sha ks, built of woven bamboo

STRE T IN NIPA S AC ECTION OF ANILA
19




20~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ PHIIPIN  ISLANDS
an   p pa_ L on bambo fr rnes,: th whl tied wit vines
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ma s f coase har*floing ver hr:bron/sholder s he
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22              PHIL IPPINF I LANDS
el yen o'clock at night until four in th mornin, while
watchmen guarded the leepn city. Through one of the gaps
in the wall ade by the cannon British t oops entered the
town in 1762 to aid and de pol it. I have heard that many
people expected just such terrible treatn ent in 1898 and were
amazed at the attitude of the American soldiers Formerly a
moat surrounded the wall,but t was a egular pest hole and
we have filled it n, replacing it by a wide trip of lawn which
sets o the fine old battlements. We have been wse n preerving the w Ils. They are the most a tistic touch in the city.
I  wide avenues and parks, many splendid pubfc buildings
nd airy bungalows outside the walls you see the American
imprint Throughout the city, wthin the wall an ii the
outskirts a well as in the newly built section, we have cleaned
and beauti ed, without spoiling the "local color." Honolulu
has be n A n icanized into monotony, but Manila, with all its
sanitafon, is still pi turesque. A/e can only hope that it may
retain its beauty as it grows into
the great commer ial port of the
Orient
The Pasig River divdes the
city into two parts. One side,
etween the rver and the bay
the Walled City and the N w Manila, being built on plans laid
down by the late D. H. Bu uham,
f mous as an a chitect of "Cities
Bea tiful.' There ar also several re idential ect ons which
were suburbs in the Spani h day
On the othe side of the river are
the etail bu me s str et and the
native and Chinese quarters, be
ides some n re idential di -
trict Several bridges span the
Pa ig, chi f among them the his
toric old B idge of Spain
TYP OF wix ow IN F WALLED
CITY, MANILA 




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


27


and delivers his messages. This Filipino "boy" often has a
wife and five or six children, but his wages are only 20 pesos
($Io) a month. His chief concern is to keep the master's
shoes from mildewing.
Everything mildews here in the rainy season, which lasts
from July to October. No one stays in for the rain. They
wear clothes that will wash and never go out without a mackintosh.
Canopied mosquito nettings, carpetless floors and sliding
seashell shutters become commonplace affairs in Manila.
You soon cease to stare at the little Filipino waiters with their
shirts hanging outside their trousers. You grow accustomed
to the pantalooned Chinese women, the nursemaids of the
Orient, trundling fair American babies, and to the huge, turbaned Hindus who serve as night watchmen in this part of the
world.
I was impressed with the fact that the best of the Filipinos
have Chinese blood. Mongol junks have been crossing the
China Sea for 700 years, according to history, and probably
much longer than that. Chinese men have married Filipinas
and the cross is the best native type, more intelligent than the
Malay, stronger physically than the Chinese. Rizal, the greatest of the country's heroes, was of this blood. So is Aguinaldo.
So are many of the foremost Filipinos today.




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30


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


and have stuck to it through all these years, drawing heavily on
our stock of pluck and patience. It is little wonder that the
men who have played leading roles in this "Uplifting the Filipino" have pride in their work. It is only fairly launched, yet
many real achievements are now ready for inspection.
When we took charge of Manila, about three-fifths of all
the children born died before they were a year old. And no
wonder! There was hardly an attempt at sanitation and men
of the poorer class earned so little that mothers of newly
arrived babies were not properly nourished. Cholera had claimed
over Ioo,ooo victims in a single year. The great bulk of the
natives in the city had intestinal trouble, due to parasites which
sapped the vitality, the result of infected drinking water. We
pitched in.
First we speft $2,000,000 on sewers and enforced sanitary
regulations. We invested $I,ooo,ooo in a reliable water system.
We paid living wages to working men. Today the rate of life
insurance is the same as in the States.
We improved the streets, laid out new avenues, turned
swamps into parks. We built model hospitals, displaced fireflies and kerosene lamps by electricity, modernized the fire
department and ran trolley lines in every direction. Today
Manila, the unsanitary, dreamy city of old, is transformed into
a clean, healthful, up-to-date capital. It is the head and heart
of a nation we hope to "Manila-ize" throughout.
In the old days there was no such thing as free speech or a
free press. Men who talked about liberty, or wrote about
liberty, were executed. If a man complained about governmental corruption, he went to jail. Now, unless he incites riot
or rebellion, a man may say anything he pleases. He may
criticise the rule of the Americanos or talk about Philippine
independence by the hour.
We replaced fluctuating money with staple currency on the
gold standard. The small size of the Philippine paper bills has
proved, so satisfactory that Uncle Sam has adopted it for the
States. The dollar of the Philippines is the peso, worth just
50 cents of our money.




PHJLIPPIVF ISLANDS                   31
The postal service was a joke. Now it reache nearly every
town and village nd there is ev n a rural delvery. The
parcel post system he e s excellent Packages may b
sent C. 0. D. and, i the merchant's consent is attached the
contents can be looked over before the mon y is pa d. The
post I officials coIl ct the money and return it to the sende
The postal savings bank was in operafon here before we had it
over on our sid The tel graph, cable, telephone and wireless
syst ms are marvel, a network of comm nicaf on to the far
corner
The coast line of the Philippines s greater than that of the
United States (not including AIaska and about nine t nth of
the people lve within sight of th sea. We have charted mo e
than half the coa t line, install d 150 lights and n ouraged the
oper tion of man  steamer V nes
Befo e the Stars and Stripes went up, the Flipnos h d
absolutely no part n th overnment The Spaniards were
FIL PINO A MINISTRAT ON UI fiN MANILA




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


33


interests. They have a voice in the House of Representatives,
but no vote. The Commission selects one of these delegates,
the Assembly the other. The Commission chose a man not in
favor of immediate independence, but its last selection had a
"change of heart" on reaching Washington. In the Assembly
the "Immediate Independence Party" is in the saddle, so its
delegate is a worker in that cause.
The police judges are all Filipinos. So are half of the
twenty-four "judges of the first instance." In the Supreme
Court there are three Filipinos and four Americans.  It is
plain therefore that we have not kept the Filipinos out of the
pilot house. In all branches of Government service, Filipinos
are given positions as fast as they prove themselves capable.
In the Government printing office over 94 per cent of the
employes are natives. There are over 40,000 employes of the
Philippine Government and only about 300 of them are
Americans.
Education is the keynote of the whole situation. We found
go per cent of the people in absolute ignorance. Eighteen.days
after we captured Manila we had seven schools in operation,
and ever since we have kept education in the foreground.
"The schoolma'am follows the flag," and in I90o we brought
over,000o teachers, scattering them from the island of Batan,
which lies between Luzon and Formosa, to Siasi, away down
in the Sulu archipelago, a stretch of over I,ooo miles.
Today there are 9,ooo teachers in the Islands, but less than
700 are Americans.  This is a great pity, but the insular
Government has a limited revenue and native teachers, while
much less efficient, will work for $Io a month. There are
4,600 schools and 700,000 pupils. Only about one-third of the
children have the chance to go to school. Uncle Sam should
put up the money for more schoolhouses and many more American teachers. The Philippines are now self-supporting. We
pay for keeping up an army here; the men would have to be
kept somewhere and colonial training means everything for
them, as our soldiers must know how to live and fight in the
tropics. The school work is a big subject, a story in itself; so




i^^;'4                   PHLIP    NE ILAND
s the army; and the con tabulary, the greatest institution in the~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.:.*.;
^^'^^^Isans;a ^      te ealy   onerfl rion y    m
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^^^^(amniraio.Wih heapontenAuus 2,193,o
i~~~iHo         Frncs   uron   ari n o te     ovrnrsiipofth




PHIL IPPIAT   ISLANDS                35
tration The mist ke inheres in th
policy its If, which consists of hurt
ful economy the displacement o
experenced offlcal by nexperieuced men, t e placing of a maorty power in the hands of the natives, and the weakening of our
civilizing influence in the Island by
holding out to their people the
promise of entire independence in
the near future. How ver, I will
speak more fully relative to thi
important matter in a later ch prer.
One of t e finest bui dings in A N I E WARD POLITI IAN 0
M nila is that of the Bu eau of MANII A.
Science, an institution of wide
scope. Science and the Philippines have not been acquaintances very long, but the e was one cientific man here on our
arrival who has remained in our service. He i at the head
of the veather bureau and we cannot ud Ms equal. Fifty
years ago learned Jesu't priests established a weather bu eau
in Manila, and Father Faura began the study of the typhoon.
This most terrible of all sea storms is nat e to the China Sea
xvhich borders the Philippines on the wet. Father AIg e
who continued the work, ha kept on und r our administ aton
and one of the great scenti ts of th world. From hs st
tion comes accur te information as to th location, progre s
and duration of the typhoon, and word is telegraphed to
mariner in cv ry part of the Islands nd a hed by wireles
to ships far on at ea. Fven in China and Japan they dep nd
on wo d from Manila.
Even the n wsboy in Manila I now the meanng of the
storm signals display d on the tall mast at the weath r bureau.
The day sgn I are composed of varion con bination of black
blocks and ones and at n ght red an white lanterns arry the
message The mon ent signal No x s n n up, the e i a stir
in shipping circles. It means "Distant storm, d'rection




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PH/LIPPINE ISLAND  37~~~~~~~~~~~~~_
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Manila ~ i oedsatfo hUtdSae hnam 
WO:s~  5  I hLPIl ETAL0 OPNMNL
4               39 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~;



40              PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
Amer can, ust in from China who ru hed into a drug store on
Calle F colta,  ani a, the moment his ship had docked, and
gobbled five chocolate ice-cream so as without stoppin The
policeman you ee on a treet corner is probably an IrishAmerican The three newspapers in English have "1 ye"
h a lines over the latest cable news from the States.
"What do you think of our new hotel " every other Ame -
ican asks you. They came to town, even fro ii the ungle,
wh n J. I. Dickinson, then Se retary of War, laid its cornerstone, and many consider it the crowning Amercan achievement.
It certainly is a magnificent-looking building, none finer
in this part of the world, and fills a long-f lt want for those
who like to drop in for afternoon tea on their way to the
I uneta, or attend the weekly dances. For the tourist, however,
forced to rely on the hotel menu, for instance, it is quite another
tory. Here in the Fast everything on the bill of fare is given
I
A

A P0 TION 0 TII MANILA AS cOMPANY's PLANT




PHILIP IN    ISLANDS                4
S AU USTINE C U C, MAN LA, T OLDEST CHURC
UNDE THE AM RICAN FLAG, BUILT 1599
a number and there is a formidable array of them froi I to 40
You name the numbers of the things you vant and the x aiter
gets the ord r straight. But when the food is ampled, you
realize you are a long way from bread and pie "like mother
u ed to make." There isn't much excuse for this The
market is full of good thin s to eat. It is poor cooking and
poor service
The situation of Manila's new hotel, on reclaimed land by
the sea, is ideal, so perhaps one pay for the sea hr ze nd the
view. The Luneta is to be moved over next to the hotel and
again hay ts old position as a easide drive In t me many
fine build ngs will occupy this portion of the waterfront,
between the VaIled Cty and the bay
There are about 250,000 people in Manila and probably
,ooo of them are Americai s. Fi e years before the Spanish
American War, tI ere were two, a lone duo of busin s men.
The English colony was as influential then as it i today and its




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


43


club the center of foreign social life. This club, the Manila, is
still one of the important ones of the city, having, besides its
spacious building in a residential district, an annex in the business section. It is the fashion in the Orient to transact business
at the luncheon hour, "tiffin,"' as it is called. The staff of club
servants moves down town for the noon hour, returning to the
main clubhouse in the afternoon to greet the arrivals for
before-dinner cocktails.
The club means much in the East. It is the place where the
Anglo-Saxons gather, apart from the Asiatics among whom
they work. The Americans formed the club habit as soon as
they reached Manila. The Army and Navy Club was organized
first, followed by the University and the Elks. Anglo-Saxons
have no monopoly in this line, however. There are German
and Spanish clubs as well as Filipino and Chinese.
The Spanish Club, Casino Espafiol, was recently the center
of a celebration in honor of Santiago, patron saint of Spain.
A special dispensation was secured from the authorities for a
bull fight, with the understanding that the bulls were not to be
killed, just distracted a bit. Flaring placards announced the
coming event. A wax figure of a matador with the stuffed
head of a bull appeared in a show window on the main business
street and admiring small boys fairly blocked traffic. The
Filipinos forgot all about the Americanos and were all for the
land of El Toro. Then came a cable from one of the southern islands stating that they had been unable to corral the bulls
in time to catch the steamer. So the bull fight was postponed.
There is one club in Manila which deserves special mention
-the Columbia-where young Americans find their recreation
and social life. There is no cocktail hour at the Columbia, for
it is a strictly temperance institution, but there is a fine clubhouse, with a gymnasium and a swimming pool.   The club
habit in the Orient undoubtedly encourages drinking. A
popular postcard out here carries a sketch entitled, "The Call
of the East." It depicts a tall, thin club man reclining at full
length in a big bamboo chair, calling "Boy!" to a Chinese
waiter, pigtail flying, who is rushing a bottle of "Scotch" to




44


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


those in need. The combination of good fellowship, exile from
home and the "chit" system has been the undoing of many a
young man in the Far East.
The "chit" system is the curse of this part of the world.
In the early days, bulky Mexican dollars, brought over on the
galleons from Acapulco, were the leading currency. As they
were too heavy to lug around in the pockets of thin white
clothes, people never paid cash for anything, but signed an
"I. 0. U." or "chit" for the amount of the bill. At the end of
the month all the "chits" were sent around for collection.
This system is still popular and a man wonders how he ever
came to sign so many "chits." Sometimes the method of payment is about the same as in the light opera, "The Yankee
Consul," where the comedian remarks, every time he signs a
"chit," "Thank Heaven, that's paid."
It was to guard against the evils of club life that Bishop
Brent, of the Episcopal Church, founded the Columbia Club.
The Bishop has spent twelve years in the Philippines and had
just been on a visit to the States. Last year Harvard College
conferred an honorary degree upon him for his valuable work
in these Islands.
A man who lived in Manila prior to I898 says that all the
foreigners used to dress for $2.50. White suits cost more
nowadays, but every one wears them in the lowlands at all seasons of the year. The costume worn by the men at dinner
looks ridiculous at first to the "pilgrim." It consists of black
trousers and a very short white jacket, a low-cut white vest
and a black tie. It corresponds to the American dinner coat
or Tuxedo. The regulation evening attire, or "full dress," of
the Orient is white throughout.
Americanization has made many radical changes in the
everyday life of the Filipinos, but it has not been able to divert
traffic to the right, as in the States. Here it is "Keep to the
Left" with all methods of locomotion, the European custom
installed by the Spaniards. This has bothered many newly
arrived Americans who essayed to drive automobiles, a collision often being the result of "having learned in the U. S. A."




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


47


and the cock fights are held just out of town. If they were
abolished altogether, it would mean a real revolution. Americans attend about one "to see what they're like."
For amusements, outside of a delightful social life, the
Americans in Manila have motion-picture shows galore and a
light opera company from England twice a year. This Bandmann Opera Company, which appears in India, Ceylon, the
Straits Settlements, China, and Japan en route to the Philippines has quite a repertoire. Last season, in July and August,
it included "The Pink Lady," "Gypsy Love," "The Count of
Luxembourg," "The Geisha" and "The Sunshine Girl."
At home we picture Manila as an outpost and pack about
everything we think we'll need. The fact is you can find
almost anything you ask for in the shops on Calle Escolta, for
American goods have followed the flag. There are Indian and
Chinese shops where foreign articles are sold and, on Calle
Fernando, Filipinos sit in tiny tiendas, mere holes in the wall,
surrounded by native wares, mostly cloth of country weave.
In the books I have read on the Philippines very few writers
have told the difference between pifia, jusi, and sinamay. Piia
is made from pineapple fiber; jusi is pineapple mixed with silk;
sinamay is woven from abaca, the cousin of the banana plant,
which produces the Manila hemp of commerce. Besides these
three fabrics, the Filipinos weave cotton cloth. Tourists buy
pifa and jusi. Sinamay is coarse and only the poorer class
wear it. The piia centerpieces, elaborately embroidered, are
very beautiful and, being altogether of Philippine manufacture,
can be taken into the United States free of duty.




CHAPTER VI.


AROUND THE GREAT LAKE.
N LEAVING Manila for our trip around the great lake,
Lagyna de Bay, which is connected with the Bay of
Manila by the Pasig River, we had a choice of two routes-by
river steamer up the Pasig, or the railroad. We decided to
go by rail and return by river.
Boarding a train at a station on the outskirts of the city,
we were at once in a country which looked very primitive.
Uncultivated meadows, covered with tall cogon grass, skirted
the track.  Now and then we passed nipa shacks, and rice
fields, deep in water.  Many carabaos wallowed in muddy
pools, a few at work in the paddy fields, their masters often
mounted on their broad, ugly backs. I wondered why so much
land was uncultivated and asked an army officer who sat across
the compartment. He said it belonged to the Friar Lands,
purchased by the Government and now on sale on the installment plan.
The Friar Lands have been one of our greatest problems
in the Islands. Under Spanish rule, different orders of Catholic friars owned immense properties, over Ioo,ooo acres of
the best land in the country. In the turbulent years of I896 -I898, the people grew very bitter against the friars and many
of them were killed. As soon as we took over the Islands, our
trouble with the Friar Lands began. Many of the priests were
afraid to return to their parishes and the tenants, occupying
church lands, refused to pay rent. The different ordersDominican, Augustinian and Franciscan-appealed to the Government. To make a long story short, we finally purchased
these lands for $7,000,000. But now the trouble really began!
When the insular Government tried to market its valuable
48




PHILIP? IN? ISLANDS                  49
property, t was attacked by those who declar d that these were
public lands and could not be sold to a corporation, or, in large
tracts, to an individual. There are no small tenants to whom
this enormous tract can he sold and no big company wants less
than lo, a res for sugar cane. Filipino poltician say th t,
if great Amercan nterests are allowed to come in, their Independence Day xviii nev r come. People taking the other side
believe the Government hould be allowed to sell the lands to
those who will develop them. Others think tI at, 4 the 'poxxers
that be" in Washington will not permit the insular Government
to dispose of the property n the only way it is salable, the
United States of America should pay the nterest on the
$7,oooooo, for which the Filipinos now are taxed.
At Alahang we passed a Government agricultural station
where they are carrying on a cm ade a ainst rinderp st, the
disease whch killed off most of the ca ab as some seasons ago
At that time the United States Government gave $3,ooo, to
the Islands for the purchase of carabuos from Asia he
Philippine Government is now making a study of the disease
to ward off future ravages.
The carabac, or water buffalo, is absolutely e sential in the
boggy rice fields, as the lipinos will not do the manual work
perfor ned by the Japanese. The animal are very slow nd
A CARA AO ENJOyING IIMSEL




o             PHILIPPINE I I ANDS
clumsy and seem more Eke hippopotamuses than buffaloes.
P hey cannot live vithout daily nmd and water baths and in the
hot, dry s ason become very ii rc and unruly. 1 hen the
native say they have gone 'loco' (mad or crazy). I here are
several different varieties in the Philippin s, som with long
horns but slightly curved; others with long horns curved back,
and a sma ler kind with shorter horns, curv d back, which I m
told a e of native tock At alamba we changed cars for I os
Banos and I had a look at the village where Jose Rizal, the
A LON - ORNED CARABAO.
great Filipino p tfot, xvas born. Jos 's father was a hinese
Filip'no of ome mean and the boy was well educated going
from the Jesuit School in Manila to the Madrid Univer ity in
Spain Later he studied in France and Germany nd mastered
a number of languages. Although a Cathofc, Rizal was not
n ympathy with the attitude of the Spanish Church in Government matte s nd, hoping to awaken his fellow-countrymen
to the true conditions, he wrot a novel, while in Germany,
called "Touch Me Not" The book told the mi ery of the
ilipii os and att cked the religion orders. After publishing
a se ond book on the same lnes, Dr Rizal, who bad become a




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS                   5
well-known oculist, went to Hong Kong to pract ce his profession. ummon d to Manla, he was tried and exled to the
Island of Mindanao. Three year later he was allowed to
start for Cuba to serve as an army surgeon, but was recalled,
on reachin Port Said, brought to Manila and t ted by courtmartial on vague charge. On the morning of December 30,
1896, h was shot.
I izal's martyrdom hastened the Philippine revolt against
th Spaniards. Today he is best beloved of all his country's
heroes, and Decemb r 30th is a publi holiday, "Rizal Day."
His statue, the work of a Swiss s ulptor stands on the Luneta
in Manila I learned that an enduring monument is to be
ere ted to him in the town of his birth, a fin public school
called " he Rizal School" This valiant son of Calamba did
not in vain.
W left the train at Los Banos, two and one-half hours
from Manila on the south rn shore of the great lake, Laguna
de Bay, twenty-five by thirty miles, a shallow she t of fresh
water.
There i a comfortable little hotel at Los Banos and the
place is celebrated for its hot springs, discovered by a Francisan
priest in I67J. Ever since then there has been a hospital her
Franciscan, Spanish, and now United State army hospital
occupying the fine old Spani h building On the hills, ju t
back of the town, is Camp I Idrid e a small iilitary post Two
miles away is the College of Agriculture of the Univers ty of
LOS ANO WIT CAMP ELORIDGE ON TI E IIILLS




52             PHILIFFI B I LANDS
the Philippines, a mo t m rtant branch of our work in the
Islands, a the very best we can do for ti e Filipino is to teach
him to be a good farmer
From the Spaniards the Filipinos got the dea that manual
labor is deg adin and ti at farming belong to the taos, the
peon Ia s. We are trying to change this deplorable state of
affal s. The Philippines are primarily agricultural lands and
ntellgent farmers are needed as well as students on other line
I I ad read about the great variety of fruits in the Philippines
and expected to find a fine assortment out here in the country.
At he hotel in Los I3anos we had canned pineapples from
Hawaii for breakfast!
"What on earth' the matter?' I asked the man at the next
table. "Haven't you any native fruit in this country " "Oh!
it's between seasons," he said. "Mangoes bout gone; nothing
else due; w ather bad, so they dont bring bananas into town.
Then we have had bad luck down here with fruit. As soon as
~                             ~
M BOYCE EXAMINING IIILIPE NE co N




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56


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


sustained character of road, $7,500; province with greatest
new mileage of good road, $5,ooo; province transferring greatest per cent of funds for roads, $2,500.
From Los Bafios we went by rail along the southern shore
of the lake to the village of Pagsanjan to see the Pagsanjan
gorge and falls, famous throughout the Philippines. This is
the greatest "show trip" for excursionists from Manila. We
telegraphed ahead for bancas, or native dugouts, and the
banqueros, or canoe men, met us at the station. The round
trip to the falls takes about four hours. Each passenger has
two banqueros. My boys spoke English and sang and whistled
as they paddled merrily along. They knew quite a number of
American tunes and it amused me to hear these brown-skinned
Malays, in impromptu bathing suits, singing "Good Night,
Ladies!" Evidently army folks and other Americans patronize
Pagsanjan.
The trip is one of marvelous beauty. At the village the
stream is wide, its shores lined with giant bamboo in great
emerald plumes. As we went on the river narrowed and cliffs,
hung in verdure, towered on either side. Kingfishers of brilliant plumage seemed the only tenants of the shadowy gorge.
The lower fall is Ioo feet, the upper fall only 6o feet, but of
greater volume.
The great sport is shooting the rapids on the way back.
Canoes are very often upset. A man told me he had seen
twelve people in the water at once. We came through without
mishap, but the canoes shipped so much water we were as wet
as though we had gone overboard.




CHAPTER VII.


DOWN IN BATANGAS.
T'H    OW did you save your life?" The new arrivals had
captured Charles Martin and were trying to get the
story from him. But Martin, the Government photographer,
is a modest chap and not inclined to brag about risking his life
for pictures of the eruption of the famous Taal volcano. Taal,
the "Cloud Maker," as the natives call it, is the great scenic
asset of the Philippines-an active volcano on a low island in
the center of a lake seventeen miles long and ten and a half
miles wide, in Batangas Province, southern Luzon.  The
Americans call it Lake Taal and the Filipinos call it Lake
Bombon. Some geologists say that Taal is in its death throes,
but people in this part of the world thought it was much alive
on the terrible night of January 30, I9II.
On the 28th news reached Manila that Taal was in eruption
and Photographer Martin grabbed his camera and took the first
train south. His wonderful photographs, taken during the
days which followed, are proof of his skill and courage. Up
to the night of the 29th he took pictures at close range on
Volcanic Island and, if his plates had not given out, he would
not be alive to tell the tale. As it was, he crossed the lake in
the evening on his way to a village on the railroad for a fresh
supply of plates. That night the mighty eruption occurred.
Thousands of people, all over southern Luzon, witnessed
it, for they had been living in dread for two days and nights
because of the constant earthquakes. A man, Ioo miles away
from the lake, told me he saw the flames shoot up like a gigantic
balloon, and the electrical display which followed was seen 250
miles away. In the twinkling of an eye, 1,400 human beings
perished. The extraordinary part of it is that they were not
57




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


grazing lands attracted the attention of the Spaniards, who
stocked the fields with their best breeds. Some thirteen years
ago General Bell, who until recently was the ranking military
official in the Philippines, imported fine Arabian strains. Australia also furnished some hardy animals. Before automobiles
became popular, Manila was a splendid market for matched
teams, 2,000 pesos ($I,ooo) not being an unusual price. Now
a "matched Batangas team" can be bought for a low figure.
I rather questioned there being 35,000 inhabitants in Batangas; the place did not look large enough. "Oh, they're here,
all right," an American told me. "These sardine towns are
bound to fool you on size, when you first come in. But if
you'll shake up one of these straw shacks, you'll be surprised at
the assorted mass of humanity that will pour out!"
My informant was an officer from Camp McGrath, the big
military post on a hill overlooking the city, an ideal situation.
Six companies of colored troops are stationed here. A colonial
company has 150 men, so, with the white officers and the band,
the camp has close to I,000 soldiers. The black soldiers are
fine-looking specimens; several of these companies were at the
front in Cuba. Some of the men were playing baseball when
I arrived, and the officer told me that McGrath has the champion team of the Army League.
"What supports Batangas besides the horse trade?" I asked.
"Well, our soldiers help some, but it's a farming country around
here, much rice being raised. Coffee used to be the leading
product, but a deadly bug, or something, came along and killed
it." "Yes, that's Mindoro across the way," he said-"the
island there is so much talk about. You can go over in a big
launch in about three hours, if the strait is smooth, but you're
apt to be caught in a baguio-that's a big wind-and marooned
over there for days. Ward, the American who takes parties to
Taal in the dry season, went over last week and couldn't get
back until yesterday."
I decided to "take a chance" to be able to say I had been on
Mindoro, as the steamer I was to take south to Cebu and other
islands would not touch at Mindoro ports. Until recently




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


6I


Mindoro, containing over 4,000 square miles, has had a bad
name. "The most unhealthful place in the Philippines," they
called it, and very little was done to develop it. Nowadays you
hear a great deal about the vast tracts of valuable hardwoods
on the Islands, and Mindoro will soon have an average of more
than one and one-half inhabitants to the square mile.
Puerto Galera, my destination on the northern coast, is a
little landlocked harbor, noted for the remarkable transparency
of its water, like that of Catalina Islands, off southern California. The marine garden is a wonder, coral of every color and
variety, and all the fish they try to catch for the aquarium-red,
green, yellow, pink, lavender-every shade and combination
you have ever dreamed of. I saw one fellow striped like a
tiger and another which looked like a peacock.
A few miles inland is Mount Halcon, 8,504 feet, one of the
highest peaks in the Philippines. This is an ideal camping spot
-fishing, sea-bathing and the best sort of hunting in the
interior-deer, wild hogs, wild carabaos, ducks pigeons, jacksnipe and the jungle fowl, which looks like barnyard Leghorn.
One of the rarest animals in the world is found only in
Mindoro, the timarao, a small cousin of the wild carabao, very
difficult to obtain and very dangerous. The man who goes
after timarao must be sure of his nerve and his aim.
Former Secretary of the Interior, Dean C. Worcester,
hunted the Mindoro timarao in the eighties, when he was connected with a college in the States. The expedition with which
he was connected brought out the first specimens of this wary
animal. The only timarao in captivity, and possibly the only
one ever captured alive, was recently on exhibition in Manila,
before being sent to the European or American zoological
garden which offered the highest price.
Gordon, a well-known hunter, captured the eight-monthsold timarao calf not long ago. The Manila papers published
columns about it, how it followed its keeper about and would
not sleep without a light in the corral, a regular " 'fraid baby,"
although its father and mother terrified the hunters before
they were killed and the little one was secured.




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


63


embryo duck is boiled in the shell. At the railroad stations you
see the women, with trays on their heads, crying "Balut, balut!"
Very old men earn their living by lying on these eggs, but we
failed to get a photograph of any of these human incubators.
Immense fruit bats, three and four feet across, are relished
by many. A man told me they catch them with kites, fishhooks attached to the lines. He said he has counted forty kites
on one night in a nearby field. At an army mess, not long
before, two or three big bats were served as a joke and some
of the men thought they were eating chicken. When they
found out about it they were "good and mad."
"I don't know why they made such a fuss," said the man
who told the story.  "The bats live on fruit and aren't
unwholesome."
Chewing the betel is a common habit among Filipinos of the
poorer class. Their Malay ancestors chewed the nut from
time immemorial, not only for the narcotic effect, but because
they considered the black stain on the teeth a mark of beauty.
The nut-of the areca palm-is plentiful in the Islands. The
husk is about the size of a hen's egg and the nut within is a
deep rose red. The natives chew it with slaked lime and a
certain leaf found here. The combination relieves hunger and
thirst, and acts as a "bracer." As the nut is chewed it stains
the lips a brilliant red and, with constant expectoration, it is
altogether a disgusting habit. Besides chewing the betel, the
women smoke cigars and cigarettes.




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


69


"and we'll astonish the world. A few seasons ago our product
was only used by confectioners and soap-boilers. Soap?
Well, rather! Coconut-oil soap is the only kind that will dissolve in salt water. And table butter? Just the thing! It
makes first-class butter and the bulk of our copra now goes to
France and Germany to be turned into 'Vegetaline' and
'Cocoaline.' This, in turn, is shipped to Holland and Denmark
and comes out as 'Dairy Butter.' And I don't see why coconut milk isn't as good as cow's milk. What do you think?"
I acknowledged that all such canned butter is a godsend in
the tropics where dairy products spoil without ice. Still, in
spite of the opinion of the coconut grower, I believe there are
a few cows left in Denmark and Holland.
A considerable amount of coconut oil is used in the Philippines in house lamps, for street illumination and as a hair tonic.
Like the Hindus and other Oriental women, the Filipinas oil
their black tresses faithfully and this, with the native bark they
use in washing it, may account for the luxuriant growth.
There is a future for the manufacture of oil here on a large
scale. The residue of the mill could be used as a stock food
and as a fertilizer, ranking with cotton-seed cake for either
purpose.
Copra-making is a crude process. The husks are stripped
by hand, an average operator handling I,ooo nuts a day.
Halved with a big knife, or bolo, which every native in the
country carries about with him, the meat is dried by the sun
and the kernel drops out. Another drying over the fire, and
the copra is ready for sacking. The husks, now burned and
returned in ashes to the soil, could be made into coir fiber, in
demand for packing lubricating journals on railroad cars.
To reach the "tail" of Luzon, including the isolated provinces of Ambos Camarines, Albay and Sorsogon, I railroaded
to Lucena, not far from Batangas, sailed over to the town of
Pasacao and motored to Legaspi, capital of the flourishing
province of Albay, heart of the hemp industry. The voyage
from Manila to Legaspi can be made in two or three days on an
inter-island steamer.




70             PHILIPPIN     ISLANDS
MOUNT MAYON IN ALI3AY PROVIN E, TIlE MO T ERE T
CONE ON AUTH.
Visitors to this part of I uzon and all who reach the Ph lip
pines on United St tes army transports which sail past Albay
on th&r way to Manila, are greatly impr ssed with Mount
Mayon, con idered the most perfect con in tI e world. It
towers 7,943 feet above the plain and is an active volcano
having been in ernpfon as late as 1897. The late D Paul C.
Free, director of the Manila Bureau of Science, I written a
lowin account of his as ent of Mayon, coiupari ig the view
fro u its summit with the gr at o es of the world.
"I ave be n high up on the slopes of Etna," he says, "at
the entranc of the Val del Bove, from wlfch many travelers
maintan th finest view in the world is to be obtained; but I
think the vita from the ummit of Mayon stir asses the one
from ts si ter volcano in Sicily"
The ashe and du t of thi majestic volcano h v formed
the oil of the richest Mania hemp provinc he Philippine
Islands have one great monopoly. In the production of hemp
her t ey rule the world. There at other varieties of hemp
on the market but they are all outdistanced by th Philippine




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The native s Idom plows th ground before planting, just
burns it over and ets the plants ten or txx clx feet apart. A
a rul the owner works on shar s with the workmen, wi o strip
ti e fiber from ti e plant. Twelve to twenty stalk grow from
one root and thes are spl't, the layers separated and drawn
between a block of wood and a sharp knif The fiber is th n
hung ov r bamboo poles, exactly I ke a wasl in put out to dry.
I have s ei it twelve feet long, looking like spun glass in the
sunlight The drying takes day or two and then the hemp
is tied in bundles and shipped to th nea est marl et, often
traveling by carabao cart The exporter sort it into comm rcial grades, p cks t in 275-pound bales and off it goes to the
fo r corner of the earth. he o-called Manila pape is made
from old rope.
The Department of Agriculture here makes the statement
that a young man with $5,ooo to nve t, willing to live in the
tropics, can make money in growing hemp. Th industry seems
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:  \. ~PHILIPPJNF ISLANDS                     73 ^:'^:^::'ii
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CHAPTER IX.
IIISPOtIC CAVITE.
C AN ITE is histori Long befo e the Spanard came the
Malays called the place 'Kawit," or fishhook becan e the
lender penin ula, curving out into Manila Ba', Luzon islan
has the exact crook of a fi hhook Wth two sharp points at the
end To one of these sai d pts the Chinese, or 'Sangley,"
came with their tradin junks as far back as ioo A D.,
acco ding to history, and probably centuries earler. Today
thi is known as Sangley Point.
On the twn tip of the fishhook, just across the little Bay
of Canacan, ti e Span sh dons built their town in the sixteenth
century calling it Cavite, whi h was as near as they could come
to the native "Kawit' I om h re the alleon set sail every
year for Acapulco, Mexico laden with silks from China and
ware from India-the only r gular means of communi ation
for 300 years between Asia and America
And here in Canacao Bay, o Old
Cavit, on that m morable May morning in
18)8, Dew y sank the pani h squadron
and Amen an history in the P1 ilippnes
bean.
he town of Cavite, which has population of bout , and is the capital of
the province of th same name, is about
eight miles southwest of M nila There
are three ways of reaching it from Man Ia
-by steamer in an hour; by road for
twenty six miles alon the coast; or by
ail We chose the I st route. It took us
through the town of Pasay, past the Manla olo Club and to the sleepy little
A AVITE A
74




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76


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


The approach to Cavite Town is unique. The train creeps
along a narrow strip of land with the Bay of Manila on either
side and pulls up at the village of San Roque where travelers
take carromatas and drive over a neck of land, hardly wider
than a boulevard, to the old walled city of Cavite.
Passing the hoary fortifications we came on to a shaded
waterfront where the old galleons were fitted out and I was
just conjuring up a picturesque troupe of Spanish adventurers
when a man in the United States naval uniform pointed across
Caiacao Bay and said: "There's our naval hospital, and beyond,
on Sangley Point, is the coaling station. The naval station is
here in Cavite at the extreme end of the town, at least that part
of it which hasn't been transferred to Olongapo, up the coast
in Zambales Province. Yes, this is the very bay where the
Spanish fleet lay asleep sixteen years ago May Day, when we
sailed in."
"Any men around here who were in the battle?" I asked,
and the officer produced a jolly old salt, who told me "just
how it happened."
"We were over in Hong Kong, Dewey and the rest of us,
when war was declared. The British gave us just twenty-four
hours to quit port, so, having our orders to destroy the Spanish
fleet, we cut out for Manila Bay. We had only four cruisers,
two gunboats, a cutter, collier and supply ship, not much of a
fleet, you'd say, but it was plenty. When we sighted 'em at
dawn, we just went to it and pounded them with the best we
had.  We circled in front of 'em, landing broadside after
broadside, until we had 'em wiped off the sea. Do you know,
those Spaniards fired twice as many shots as we and did us no
damage excepting on the Baltimore, where six men were
wounded by a shell, but back on duty almost immediately.
We killed and wounded hundreds of the enemy."
I asked about an old hulk lying in the bay. "Why, that's
the Cyrus Wakefield of Thomaston, Maine," he said. "She
was a champion, a 3,000 tonner, held the world's record as a
sailing vessel. Made a voyage from Frisco to Liverpool and
back in less than seven months, Captain Hibbard in command.




PHILIPPI VP ISLANDS                  77
They say she came from the equator to Frisco n eleven days
and you can bet that' going some! Now he lie here a a
store ship, hut it s 'Flats off, mates!' to a chai ipion, ex en if she
is a 'has been'"
'I here is a lot of Chines blood in cavite Every other face
se ms to have a Mongolian ca t. For centuries Chinani have
b en marrying the native women nd the isolation of the place
has tended to preserve the type The town s panish in
appearance narrow streets, ma sive doorway s, overhanging
A coc PIT, TE IPL OF TEMPL 5 IN EVERY P IILIPPINF TOWN
balconies. There are one or two nit re ting old church and
a pad c who I as the history of the town at his finger tip
Wh n we drove ck to San Roque to board the tra n, we
met a care-free crowd returning from th cock pit. The win
ncr were in carramata, but the losers were on foot.
Every village, or ban a, in the Philippines has it cock pit.
The cod fi lit is till the prin&pal diversion of th masse
and, in spite of American frowns, retans it drawng power.
Undoubtedly introduced from M Nico by the early Spamards
it has tliri Ted and today the only means left tI e Filip no to




...~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-  ~'*.:.',I'..**:,,:/Ill,.. I ''
78  PHI LIPPIAT  ISLANDS~~~~~~~~~~~'*^y;
af fy his pass ot for gambling  WW~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~e banished f tom the  '.''.'.
c ty of Manla cock  ghting is carri 4 on in t over the muni-~~*':.''..'.::-..
cia budayo       vrlSna adI lda.Te             oe mn
^,,:;'',,:;siderable:-,:*  mon y*. chn  shns tth  i, n  i sfrmt:'y:^^comm        on- on"-. all;*bets p1 ed as well as:from the:admission
^:^^^7fee and''   reer ds tal, ha         hemaagmetde ys t
l^^.^^'profi enalin                                             hist, to nee th  ihlcne
One point in connection with co k  hting mpressed me * **
t:^^1)'^-,. gre. tly the hoet whic   chr teie the:iiin'ni
gambling venture.  Mon y ~~~~~n all amounts is tossed into, 'the
betting booth and no tick t are issued. When the n ath is~~~~~~~~~~'* *,,*
decided the winner calls at the booth, states the amount of th
^I.M^^'f'- bet and ree  shswi iis        eri    ee    qeto     bu
it No Flipin would dreamof lyhi as t the amountof his*',
i~~i~~lbe:::"':.:




PHILIPPINE I LANDS                     79
12 (
SELL ii or COAL On AVITL
Old ta\ ite, x here mo t of the people earn a livin by fishing
for windon-pane Shell takes the place of glass in Philippin
wndows and with good reason. In this tropical land, th oft
Ii ht whi h comes through the shell is v ry grateful to the
eyes Then these thin wafer-like shells are better able to me t
the typhoon's blast.
In some of the old churches, h 11 window, exposed for
enturies, are still in service. YV hen broken the shells are
easily replaced. Above 11, they are cheap. " Vhat do they
sell for?' I al ed a Kax it merchant. He had three prices, he
admitted-S pesos per it, fo the Filipino; ito p a for tI e
Spaniard; it pesos for the A neric n.
Two sizes of shell panes are placed on the ma ket thre
inches squax e and two ai d one-half 'uches square. hen
found the shells are almost ready for use, a one side i flat and
t sin ply requir s squaring in a crude machine, such as i used




PHIL IPPINL I LAND~~~
n- cut i lg oacoTe a ehl o heselw
~~~1~on xiso lttevau
Th swinow hll s fond hrouhou thIslns u h
largest ~ ~ ~ ~  ~  -~~~-B bes r-nMaia ay ea K~. Miiialn
use 5,oo, hel paes nnul y th Kait ishrme ar
kept busyThey gathr about ~,  h us ai~eek, wali ~g ou
to thir w  sts  t lo  tideand  eelig forthe  hellswithth r
to    hnterbset r ul h    e aeahr n
tunteac oet h       oen h etrosyoe h
shel  mveth  cntnt,  ndpie  he atshIIupfo
cuti  Teytodmethreweeiooo time sels n n
basetredyfo sipen aros Mnia ay Al hene
hulinsinMniath me ancthdal h opia, h
Y.M.C A B'di, heNw   ail Htl n others~
have shell indow
I  aes  iqi   egrigs p   tt  heS  n
I      ht200  onso  hllpn  eesntt   e   r
liastya fo  n o h ouhr ilns Bidr o ug
alw  eal nClfrimytk ohl idw 
time.  They  are certainly  strong, cheap  and  attr ctive. I~~~~~beev thyae  uueto n cens apshd     n
con ervatory windows
~W




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CHAPTER X.


OUR LITTLE NINE-MILLION-DOLLAR ROAD.
Y, t, OU aren't going to take all that paraphernalia over the
I  mountain trails in the rainy season?"
"Indeed, we are," I said, "cameras and plates are our long
suit just now, for we're after photographs."
We were bound for Baguio, the summer capital, in the great
Mountain Province of Luzon.
The Americans in the Philippines were not the first to build
a summer capital, a mountain seat of government up in the
pure air of the pines. I have visited Simla in India, Buitenzorg, the hill city of Java, and Petropolis, high above Rio de
Janeiro-all places where officials can keep on working, while
recuperating from the ills of the fever-laden lowlands. But,
among such highland capitals, Baguio, in the mountains of
northern Luzon, is unique. It has cost $9,ooo,ooo to build
and maintain the Benguet Road which leads to it!
March, April and May are the months, the very hot months,
when the Government packs up, bag and baggage, and takes to
the tall timber. While only 9oo Government employes are
moved up to Baguio, about 4,000 relatives and friends follow
the procession, and the little town is at its gayest. I saw it
when the hot season was past, at a time when storms play
havoc with the road.
It is a long way up to Baguio from Manila. First there is
a seven hours' railway journey across the great central plain
of Luzon, through five provinces-Rizal, Bulacan, Pampanga,
Tarlac and Pangasinan.
Rizal is the province in which Manila lies. It is named, of
course, for the Philippine patriot. Rice fields border the track.
We passed the grounds of the Manila Golf Club.
In Bulacan we came to the town of Malolos where Agui83




84


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


naldo had his capital for a short time during the insurrection.
There are iron deposits in this province worked by a Tagalog
woman, Dofia Marie Altesa Fernando. From her little furnaces in the jungle, the molten metal is poured into molds
forming plow points. Slung on bamboo poles, they are carried
down to the valley and on by ox-cart to the neighboring
provinces.
Coming in sight of the Zambales Mountains, rising between
the plain and the China Sea, we entered the interesting province
of Pampanga.
You have heard of the Macabebes who fought so valiantly
with our forces against the other Filipinos?  They came
from the town of Macabebe in Pampanga. Above all the
Christian people of the Philippines, these Pampangans have the
martial spirit. They fought with the Dutch army in Java in
the seventeenth century; with Simon de Anda, the Spaniard,
here in the Philippines, when he met the invading British in
the eighteenth century; with Ward and Gordon in China
in the nineteenth century. The Macabebe is a born fighter.
Today he is an important element in the Philippine Scouts. It
was at San Fernando in Pampanga Province that the final
battle between the American and Philippine troops was fought.
In Tarlac we came to a big irrigation plant. They raise
sugar here, rice, and a little tobacco. Over on the east I saw a
most curious dome-shaped mountain, rising abruptly from the
plain, not another mountain, or even a foothill, in sight.
"It's Mount Arayat," some one said. "It's over 3,000 feet.
The people around here have many legends associated with
it."
The Agno, second river of Luzon, flows through this part of
the country. Much of the land was under water and the
people were out in the fields, waist deep in the muddy tide. I
saw a number of boys taking a bath with their carabaos.
We left the train at Dagupan in Pangasinan Province, on
the coast of the China Sea. In the dry season travelers bound
for Baguio can go within twenty-two miles of the capital, to
Camp One on the Benguet Road. The railroad is strung along




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


85


the river bed for quite a distance and when the season's traffic
is past, rails and ties are taken up. Otherwise the river would
"get 'em."
The Manila-Dagupan line enjoys the distinction of being the
first railroad constructed in the Philippines. It was the only
one in existence when the American troops landed. It is a
"dinky," narrow-gauge affair with British officials and Filipino
crews. It was built originally with English money, but the
Speyer Syndicate of New York has taken it over. The British
officials still hold down most of the desks and operate the line in
the "same old way," which has proved profitable. Filipinos
love to travel and the management gives them a nice long ride
for their money-long in the point of time! The average
speed of automobiles here is just twice that of trains!
Three classes of tickets are sold and most of the natives ride
third class. The management seldom discharges an employe,
finding that a system of fines works to better advantage. The
crews and station hands receive small wages, from $15 to $30 a
month, but it sounds and is twice as much in pesos.
The railway has been continued about thirty miles up the
coast beyond Dagupan and in time will reach the prosperous
Ilocos provinces, on the northwest coast.
A Swiss engineer had just arrived on the ground to construct a branch from this main line, connecting Aringay with
Baguio. It will be a scenic route, twenty-four miles in length,
including nine miles of cog or rack, and will displace Luzon's
greatest advertised feature, the Benguet Road.
This bit of road, thirty miles long, climbing 5,ooo feet, has
been a bone of contention between the insular Government and
the Philippine press. The Filipinos were not in sympathy with
the summer capital idea, and they knew the difficulties of building and maintaining a road up a river gorge in this country,
where earthquakes, typhoons and the heaviest rainfall on earth
are to be battled with. American engineers reported that the
work could be done at a reasonable figure and were told to go
ahead. It was to be a scenic route and scenery comes high, but
no one connected with the Government dreamed that it would




V                                                    0~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I  
z,
NI




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


87


pines! About $6o a foot, $5 an inch! A case of "climbing up
the golden stairs!"
"Just wait till you see it," said the engineer. "I tell you it's
'some road.' You'll realize, going up, now the rains are on,
what we are up against!  Why, in I909, the most severe
typhoon ever experienced by white men in the Benguet country
struck the road. It raged all night and there was a rainfall of
twenty-three inches in ten hours. The Bued River rose sixty
feet and tore out over Ioo bridges. One of them, Number I42,
made of steel, was just twisted into a knot. You'll see it up
the line. We lost seven men in that blow and it took us over
two months, working day and night, to get the road open again.
Every season it's about the same thing. When the rains come,
we have a bunch of slides as hard to control as was the famous
Culebra slide at the Panama Canal. And bridges! We are
just sticking them in the whole time."
It is generally admitted now that the building of the Benguet Road was a mistake. The route which the new railway
will follow would have been much cheaper for construction and
maintenance. When the mistake was discovered the investment was considered too great to be abandoned.
Since the road was opened, five years ago, it has been the
prize automobile trip of the Islands. The Bureau of Public
Works has charge of the transportation and has an assortment
of machines in service, the bulk of the passenger trade being
hauled by six-cylinder, low-geared French cars, although some
American "steamers" have given good service.
I paid ten dollars for my auto ticket from Dagupan to
Baguio and seven cents a pound on baggage. We rode out
over one of the finest highways I have seen in any land, for
Pangasinan Province won the prize last season for its roads.
There seemed to be a continuous town for miles, a row of
"grass" houses on either side of the glistening white highroad
and every one hanging out of the windows to see the Americanos go past. There were only a few passengers in the car,
as traffic was then light going up. The chauffeur was a
Filipino.
7




UNITE STAT S GOVERNMENT CENTER BAGIJIG




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90


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


residences, one for trade. There are several rather imposing
official residences besides the municipal buildings. Ex-Governor Forbes has a fine private home called "Topside," which
he will probably retain. The roads through the town-they
are all roads, rather than streets-are excellent. In time, when
the place builds up, it may really look like a city. Now it is
more like a first-class frontier post.
Camp John Hay, which is really a part of Baguio, is the
military camp, above all others in the Philippines, where our
soldiers go to win a new lease of life. Its amphitheater, of
which General Bell was justly proud, is the most attractive feature of the mountain capital-carved right out of the hillside
above the pine-clad valley-tier on tier hedged by flowering
plants.
Will the Benguet Road be abandoned when the new railroad
is finished? Most people here say "No!" The army will take
it over, they tell me. As one man said, "The army doesn't have
to itemize the cost of everything. It is all charged to the general up-keep."
The Filipinos have begun to come to Baguio.* If, in time,
it becomes the place where people from the tropical plains gain
health and strength in the crisp mountain air-if it leads to the
development of a hardier type of Filipino-then perhaps the
millions sunk in the Benguet Road will not have been spent in
vain.
*As this volume goes to press I am informed that the Government has abandoned, for the present, the custom of going up to
Baguio during the hot season. Surely this is false economy, since
life and health are worth more than dollars, or has the present
Philippine policy produced official poverty?




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9               PHJHPPINP I LANDS
dreds of T orots come dox n the trail to Bagnio, the men clad
n old coats and "ge strings," the little brown vomen in ho ne
spun skirts and blon e, aden baskets on their backs, held by a
thong over the forehead. The women come to sell a little
produce. They are not th shopp rs. Dog-buying is a man's
wok,
The Igorot doe not decide hastily. He examines dozens
of brutes before finding one exactly to his liking. Most of the
dogs are of the thin, "skin-tight" variety, wth very littl hair.
"Yes, they like 'em best when they're thin. They'll fatten
'em up with ri e b fore killing," said a man who knew all about
it. "You see a dog should have very little hair They say
hair flavors the meat. That fellow has ust paid three pesos
for one."
Two pesos (one dollar) seemed the average price. The
Igorot ga ed admiringly at his purchase, as he dragged it away
at the end of a bamboo stick.
'He's come twenty miles, most likely, to buy that dog.
He'll take two week to fatten it and then there'll be a feast.
 They take a long, harp rattan and
run it through the live dog. Then
they tie the rattan to posts on
either side of the fire. They
swing the dog round and round
for about fifteen minutes and,
wb n he is half cooked, they cut
him up in small pieces and eat
everything but the fe t and tail.
The tail is considered fit only for
an enemy. When the meat s
eing serv d, they all sit around
the fire with their bolos upright
between their toes, and tear the
meat into smaller bits on the edge
of the sharp knive, scorching it
a am before eating. It is anything but a pleasant sght.
TWO LITTLE IGOROT RID
WDDEDATT AG
OF WLV.




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


93


"But hasn't the Government done anything to stop this dogeating?" I asked.
"Oh! It will pass in time. We've interfered as little as
possible with their established customs. They're fond of dog
meat and it's cheap. At one of the Government stores for
Igorots, they stocked up with some novelties-canned salmon
and that sort of thing-but sales were slow. Then a consignment of bologna sausages arrived and they went like hot-cakes.
I'm not saying what was inside those sausages, but it looks as
though there are dog markets outside of the Philippines!"
The Mountain Province of Luzon, through which we made
an extensive journey, occupies the whole of the central mountain region of the island. It is divided into seven subprovinces,
each with an American Lieutenant-Governor and a small force
of constabulary. The constabulary officers are Americans, but
the soldiers are recruited, for the most part, from the inhabitants, known as the Wild Tribes. In three of the subprovinces
-Benguet, Lepanto and Bontoc-the Igorots live. The other
wild people on Luzon are the Ifugaos, Kalingas, Tinguians,
Ilongots and Negritos, the two last living outside the Mountain Province. All of these people were head-hunters not very
long ago, but the practice has been effectively checked in most
of the territory since the Americans arrived. The capital of
the Mountain Province is Bontoc, about 130 miles from Baguio,
and for Bontoc we started, over the famous mountain trail.
I hired Igorot carriers, six men, for fifty centavos (twentyfive cents) apiece per day, each to carry fifty pounds and supply his own food. In Africa I had paid ten cents a day per
man for porters who carried sixty pounds apiece on their
heads, we furnishing one pound of meal a day and all the
game each could eat.
We started out over a carriage road which ends in the
Trinidad Valley, three miles from Baguio. Here the Bureau
of Agriculture has an experimental farm. Now we began to
climb over a trail where there is no telephone or telegraph communication with the outside world. The Government, however,
has established rest-houses along the way, three in a distance of




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96               HILII'PINE ISLANDS
Igorot ate classed as one and are docile I do not think they
re included in the Ii t of head hunters. For many year they
hay been n contact wth the Spaniards and th Christian F 1 -pinos of th plain. Their stincfve feature i a cloth, worn
about the head like a semi-turban. The women wear wa sts,
which shows the Christian niluence, but away f rot the mis ion
schools of Baguto and S gada, and the influence of the whites,
they are a dirty, squalid lot but well put up.
The fourth evening out we rode nto Cer Tantes, a Christian
town with Igorot trimmings, rathe an i portant place in Spanish days. From here there is a cart road to the seaport of
Tagudin, two days away. TWs is sually the way people come
in to Bontoc.
Before crossing over from Lepauto to Bontoc, we came to
the piscopal Mis ion School at Sagada, which is certainly
xorthy of notice. Father Staunton and his wife heard of this
pagan villag with 4,000 souls and decided to move up there
R5. STAUNTON AND E UP 5 Ei? SCO AL 5510N C 00L SAGADA




value';,  of'**  soap over dirt *' l^^ ptros er  oerge  trgs  ee oe
strated*;'. '.*.i t o t'i her gorots T he  ae  eredtlsetesa  n
the,;.';:   pln nsedofteprmtvea.Thyhvebe tuh
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', ~  Ter isa amilatSg       hih uple lmert
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eletrc igtig lata acin sopan ap nf pes




98


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


remote parts of the province, but, on the whole, are pretty well
under control.
The men wear clouts, the women strips of cloth tied about
the body below the waist. Both are tattooed, both have large
holes in the lobes of the ears into which all sorts of weird ornaments are stuck. The women prize dog-tooth necklaces and
the men bang their hair and let it grow long in back, thrusting
the stringy ends into a little rattan basket-like hat, tied on the
back of the head. They make head-axes and lances, earthen
pots and rather artistic pipe bowls of clay and brass. Some of
the women weave serviceable cloth from the thread of a bark
fiber.
Thousands of people huddle together in a small village,
which would hardly seem to hold a hundred. The usual type
of house is simply a peaked roof, squatting low on the ground,
a row of boards serving as a side wall, a dirt floor. The pigpen is attached to the house and I thought the pigs much
cleaner than the people.
Bontoc, capital of the Mountain Province, has a neat American quarter with thirty citizens from the United States. They
have fine brick buildings-a clubhouse, constabulary post, hospital, churches and municipal buildings. There is even a prison
for the "wild" ones of the Wild Tribes.
"We are 3,000 feet above the sea and pity the coast people,"
they told me. "There are enough of us here to have quite a
little social life." I recalled this later, when a lonely constabulary officer, far off on the frontier, spoke longingly of Bontoc.
"It's a great place," he said. "They have afternoon teas
and dances. Oh, it's quite a city! If you want to be talked
about just go to Bontoc."




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100            PHILIPPINE I LANDS
K      K
IFUGAGS, W 0 AVE BEEN DANCING AROUND THEIR IDOL.
Simple necessity inspired this mighty work. Orginally a
lowland people g nerations ago the Ifugaos vere driven to
this mount in stroi ghold by other Malay tribes. Raising ice
at an angle became their specialty They built ter aces encircling the mountains, support ng them with strong stone walls
They graduated as hyd aulic engineers, carrfng water for
miles and feed ug it to the rice patches, the retaining walls
llowing about a foot of water to flood the crops. Then they
went a step in advance of civilized races by fertilizing the irrigating streams with a hes and decayed vegetable matter. Old
Gravity did the rest. After spendin day among these people
and riding across their country I decided that, considering
their primitive condition, no ricultural achevement in the
world can compare with theirs!
When we rode nto If ugao from Bontoc, these acrobatic




frmDf rs wer pEprn thi terae forpafn           Prt the:X
0~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:* 0;:f.::*.'*.:::/ Ti:
Goo      Sprt whohe guard.'' the:, growing: riems  e se o
above the canyoncond     the''*' ceremony  Thi tal spears
hung00R: f~f:D~;of on a stick  Of course th  Good Sprt lhv
frenl asitac of the.. tal red      lant, reemblng fathe
Lou clos retabo n  nao They    showed*** the belonged.**;'
to**. the"uperse" y tei onaiens-arg       errngs nck
laces wth copper charms,*'"..:  b acelets"***'.  of*'':  heavy-* brass wire' in''^^




I02


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


hair was cut in an outlandish fashion. It looked as though a
bowl had been clapped on the head and the hair, sticking out
in the back, chopped off evenly with a bolo.
A little farther on we came to some women toiling up the
almost perpendicular hillside, where yams are planted in systematic rows. Oblong baskets, filled with these big sweet
potatoes, were balanced on their heads. When they saw us
they were afraid of the horses and slid down the trail.
In clothing the women are about as poverty-stricken as the
men. A very short skirt, beginning below the waist and ending
at the knee, is their sole garment. They, too, wear necklaces,
and beads in their hair. They are about the best-looking savages I have ever seen.
We came to a cluster of huts on a knoll. The Ifugaos do
not live in villages like the Bontocs. Their houses are grouped
in tiny hamlets like sentinels on the mountains.
An Ifugao house is a great improvement over the home of
the dog-eating Igorot. The Ifugao does not feast on dog and
he does not eat with his fingers. He uses a carved wooden
spoon about the size of our tablespoon. He sets his house up
on four posts, with great circles of wood about each post to
keep the rats out. All about the house he hangs rattan baskets
with sliding doors, into which he puts the chickens at night —
also to fool the rats. He climbs up into his castle on a ladder
and has a storeroom, as well as a living-room, but no windows,
unfortunately, and pitch-pine fires make a lot of smoke.
A wealthy man, who owns several rice fields and a number
of pigs, sometimes has a carved wooden seat underneath his
house. This is a tagabi and is a "sure sign" of luxury. There
are a very few household belongings. The women weave
material for skirts, clouts and blankets, the big, black deathblanket, being an important feature.
The Ifugaos, like several of the northern tribes, have a most
unpleasant custom of keeping a dead person in state, while
they hold a feast in his honor. They set the departed upright
under his house, dressed in his best and draped in his deathblanket, while they eat up all his pigs and chickens. This goes




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':r:-'':,PHILIPPINE ISLANDS^
*.'.'AN T",; A;:  COSTBUAR  P0's T  MN  T  OUTI
'. ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~  ~ RC   T.,,*".. '" *:,, ''*,*..";*...:'.'K ~ ' RRA~ES.^
cosume with a" dash. of omehin loal o peas th naiv
Beie the p0 t at. Banuethee i on onthefrotie a
Maaya:ndalagr na Quanan the prvnca caia,.'^;':.:* "':*A:
with a*'  ful comau of fifty soldiers and two officers':.   ~     niaga is mor preentou tha Baae  Ther isth
house of;"  the Lieu nant-Gov:'i:.' rno, aCaholc mssonbe de
the-;,   cosablr post an a*\ schol b*dng ad Gvermen
House jutbig o p td        hchaeteeodwodro
Ifugao'',*  Th nd  ralshola   uinanhscetilygn
a on wy n ain svaestoar ctienhi.           hep'il
haxe     uarid  he  toe  nd ercte  to  asiv  ^buildinlgt^,';;^ ':'*'l:':^
which::..  wol b  cei i nylndTe aetrmndul
proud**:!  oftei  ok n  el hy   a b,     t rconr




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
thes buildings occupy about the relationship of the capitol at
Wa hington to the poorest hanty
In If ugao we saw a native ca tao, or dancing feast. Dancm is the leadin div r ion throughout the Philipp nes with
the Christians a well as pagan Among the &vilized tribes
the e affairs are much the me as with us, but the d nces of
the wild man are of very different variety. The Ifugaos
A WEDDING IN IFIJGAO.
ance in a circle, first extending one arm and then the other,
and do ome skillful foot work. 'I hey keep t up continuously
the whole nght through, dropping out from exhaustion and
then jumping in a am as the spirit move th m The spirits
have material form in the shape of b bud in big Chinese jars.
Bubud i a fairly mild alcoholic drinl mad from ri e and
the chi fs, young and old, guzzle it freely and consider it very
bad form to leave a ca ac, or feast, sober.




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


Io7


The musical instruments are brass gongs, called gansas, of
Chinese origin, like the bubud jars. They are of various tones
and their harsh "ding-ding-ding-o" stirs pulses and toes. The
dance of the women differs from the men's. They keep their
feet on the ground and move toes and fingers in a strange
fashion.
Long narrow strips of white paper, distributed among the
dancers, are tied in the hair, a special insurance policy against
some kind of a demon. Meanwhile the pig is being roasted, the
main event of the evening, and feasting takes the place of dancing for a time.
In spite of all this savagery, the 20o,ooo Ifugaos are not
blood-thirsty creatures today. A few years ago it was a very
different story. Then they made war on other wild tribes and
lay in wait for the Christian Filipinos of the nearest plain.
More than among any other primitive people, I noticed
in them an appreciation of the fair treatment of the Americans.
They are glad to have better trails. They rather like the idea
of a "White Father" who speaks their language, as the Lieutenant-Governor does, to settle all disputes. They have found
from the beginning of American rule that they will get "a
square deal."
I have spoken of the Ifugaos all through as savages, and I
suppose they are. But when I think of their wonderful terraces, climbing the steep slopes for thousands of feet, I feel
that they can teach us a few things about ingenuity and industry.




0~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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^^v'''^"^'PHILIPPINE ISLANDS^^
alm t..   unexplore terior where he Sirra Mare Montain
slope..':'   int thPcfc   Hr    hyhv      ot,.come'\in:contatte.
with/ the Chritia Fiipn or-:.. the';''-',*; white.' man.'^^;'.- ~   ac  year it:'  is' dered at'  Negrito family must take the:^?
head'1   of*;  aneey  rscns      il oet     h   os.Te
chop" off the**  hed w/th blosan bury he bodes nndr thei
homes      or  the  devi  will catch  thlem..:l*i.',:/-.  *f;^.**,*:'**::."*::'::5^;:*'
'~~~       mad the acuinac of** a* soeha es     aag   rieo
Nerio in th        rvi     fBaan     hih:tsotitoMn
*:;. 'Bay.;:It. seemls 'stranlge indeed.thlat.whiepol  rgvn
*   cart hals and atenin avato meets' inManilanother
race *us across th     alvsa tdd huad           fyasao
Th       Negritos ar  wrs nsaurwt very drk 'brown,;,.',,';:',:*:.:".'
or. blac skin,     hei hai is; wooly, iketheAfrcansose
'**:::'flat, lips thickam  eyln  n  peie Lk   epeo     h
Da k,*:   Cont.'* netthy isgue her odeswih casthnkn
'*"....f::A QUA TET OF NEG'.     ITO.-'7.  AIDENS:^



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I I ~     HIIPNEILND               1
fe      o  the nort  wr bog.  t  the lowlands t';'-o? 
'*;1"."We' bhavebaptized them,"theysv
our own..  nam   Th i  sou  are*/ saved'.:!"'**'''*^;;:- y.  *'*':*:/ "^.' —'
',-.;.T*  ver  mate  of slvr  ha  h en;^ the*. subject of a recent1:::':^:'TYE  OF NE  ITS  PI1IL1P1JN  ISLAND




I" Q11
I - ~0,jcggg,~




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


II3


they have "evened up" the count with a neighboring enemy.
According to the official scorer, the other fellows are forty-six
heads in the lead.
The Ilongots are almost as primitive as the Negritos. They
use the bow and arrow as well as the spear. Only about six
years ago an American scientist was killed by them. Dr.
Jones of the Field Museum, Chicago, ventured alone into the
Ilongot territory. At first, according to his own report, found
after his death, the savages were friendly and assisted him in
collecting articles for the museum. Trouble came when two
old men were pressed into service as boatmen when they
wanted to remain at home. Then the sons of these men killed
the Doctor. A force of the constabulary went in search of the
murderers and captured them, but on the long journey to jail
across forest and plain, two of the prisoners escaped. The
guards, it seems, shot a deer and unfastened the handcuffs on
the Ilongots that they might bring the game to the trail. Like
a flash all three jumped into the underbrush and two got back
to their own country. The man who was recaptured is serving
out his sentence in Bontoc and I went to see him there. He
did not look very fierce and was quite a young chap.
Two constabulary expeditions have gone into the wilderness
to bring out the men who escaped, but so far they have been
unsuccessful. The Ilongots live in an almost inaccessible territory. Only a few of the tribe on the western frontier have
made friends with the white man. The trail to the outlaws'
village is among giant bowlders on the bed of a river, dry only
a few months of the year. On the last trip, the constabulary
found the village and burned it, but the people had fled. A
messenger sent out to interview the chief brought back word
that Dr. Jones met his death by violating Ilongot tribal laws,
and that no penalty should be paid by his executioners. Now
it is "up to" the constabulary to climb over the bowlders once
more.
The policy of the departing Secretary of the Interior has
been based on fair play. He has been the Great Father and
friend of the savages, spending much time among them, pre



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*'..*S    p '   0     pti  P"1'




CHAPTER XIV.


WHERE EVERYBODY SMOKES.
CAGAYAN was about the first name I memorized in the
Philippines. At the Manila Club the night of our arrival,
I was given a cigar with its end twisted into a "pigtail."
"You'll like it," said my host, "no paste used in its making.
Leaf best in the Islands. Grown up in the Cagayan Valley."
It was good and, as it gradually turned to ash, I repeated the
name of its birthplace.* Later we learned more of this valley
and, at last, a visit brought us into close acquaintanceship with
the peculiarly fertile strip of earth.
While tobacco is grown in virtually every province of the
Philippines, no one disputes that all the high-grade leaf comes
from a very limited area, the famous Cagayan tobacco valley.
The original Negritos didn't have anything to smoke. The
Malays, who followed, were content with chewing the betel.
It remained for the Spanish friars to introduce tobacco from
Mexico, soon after they landed on these shores. From the
Philippines it spread into China, where its use was so general
at one time that its sale was prohibited under penalty of death.
In 1781 the Spanish Government made the sale of Luzon
tobacco a state monopoly, and this condition lasted for a century. The very best land was selected and each family forced
to set out 4,000 plants each year, or pay a fine. Every leaf had
to be turned over to the Government, not one could be reserved
for home consumption. When the crop was all in, the best
quality was laid aside and all the rest burned-not in the form
of cigars or cigarettes, but in a good old-fashioned bonfire. As
the Government paid only for leaves which escaped the bonfire,
the poor farmer was encouraged to improve the quality of his
*Note:-I now have sent to me to Chicago each month 100 of
these cigars, by Walter E. Olsen, a former Chicago boy, now a successful tobacco manufacturer's agent in Manila, and my friends declare them "fine." Personally I prefer them to Havana cigars.
I 17




i 8  PHILIPPINE ISLANDS~~~~~~~~~~~~~4R~
le f. The Government ran the price up to one dollar gold a~~ H~W
pound, so it is littl wonder that a "Manila smoke" was held in~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Q~ k
hi h esteem in th  Orient. The Spaniard gave th farmers~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~0




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


II9


monthly service between Cadiz and Manila, via Suez, loads up
with tobacco on the home voyage.
Not all of the tobacco raised in these Islands gets away,
however. To see the people smoking, you would think every
leaf stayed at home! The cigarette consumption is 500 a year
for every man, woman and child, and no record is kept of the
cigars, made at home by the smokers out of masses of tobacco
grown in the back yards.
Everywhere in the country I was impressed with the
fact that tobacco is a necessity, rather than a luxury, to the
Filipino. The merest infants have the habit. When the baby
cries, the busy mother doesn't look about for a rubber nipple.
She sticks a big cigar into the baby's mouth and goes on with
her weaving. Children of five puff away at cigars as big as
candles and strong enough to knock a man down.
In the Cagayan Valley the family saves lost motion by
making cigars about a yard long and two inches in diameter.
These are fitted into metal sleeves and suspended from the
ceiling by a cord. Father, mother and children all take a puff,
as they pass by, and the baby is held up for his turn.
If the Spaniards deprived the natives of tobacco for one
hundred and one years, they have certainly caught up. They
all keep at it pretty steadily now, excepting when they are
sleeping.
This magic valley, producing practically all the export
tobacco and nine-tenths of the factory-made tobacco consumed
in the Islands, is in northern Luzon. The headwaters of the
Cagayan River are in the isolated province of Nueva Vizcaya,
on the eastern side of the Cordillera. From the mountain
slopes, the streams flow through green meadows and dark
forests into narrow canyons, flanked by the purple peaks of the
Pacific Coast range. A third of the way down its course, the
main stream emerges into a valley, about forty miles in width,
and flows to its mouth, in the extreme north, through the provinces of Isabela and Cagayan.
But why, you ask, is this a magic valley, richer than all
others in the Philippines? Just because Mother Nature does
9




120            PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
 4
 <1;
44
A CEN N APARRI, TIlE C AT TO ACCO PORT, NORTHERN COAST 0 LUZON
the fertilizing. Every season like clockwork about the
fteenth of December, the bottom lands of the valley are
flooded. The trong winds from the China Sea, known here
a the monsoon, hold the river ack. For ten day the valley
looks like a lake. Then the waters subside, leaving a rich
coat ug on the overflowed land. It is a Heaven favored valley,
like the Nile. Men out here call it "The Valley with a
Future," for its agricultural po sibilities, other than tobacco
ulture, are great.
A number of companies hay bought up tobacco properties.
One American nd two German companies are in the field
besides the big Spanish "Tab calera," organized in 1883. The
bulk of the land, however, is owned y natives In Ca ayan
Prov nce there are 2, property holders out of 150,000
inhabitant, 0, allowing <x to a family, every man own a
p ece of I ud. The same condition exists in Isabela Province,
where the richest land Ii
The best grade of tobacco cannot be grown near the sea,
so tli estate egin about twenty-five miles p river. All the




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS                  121
crop co es down stream to the town of Aparri, at the river s
mouth from wh re it is shipped to M mia. The Tabacalera
Company has a e t of a do en steamers op rating betw en
Manila and tobacco ports, and the most of them are I ept busy
with the Aparri trade. '1 he head of this con em owns the
Spanish Steamship Company ope atmg in 11 part of the
world, with a line between Manil and New York, via Spain
When th tariff bars between th Philippine and the United
State were let down, millions of poor cgars flooded the
market. Exporters soon saw that the oos which lay the
golden egg wa being killed and a better grade of ci ar now
reache our shores. We even get the be t Cagayan variety
The orders have gone beyond the c pacity of the giant factorie
in Manila.
No longer can an A nercan say, as he puffs aix ay at a
Philippine ci ar. "Well, this certainly is made of Manila
rop!"
We sp nt on e time in the spar ely populated se tion
known as Nueva Vizcaya, w tered hy th headstr ams of  the
Ca ayan. Many of the inhabitants, like those in he gre t
*> 7>
SC OOL CHILI) EN 0 NUEVA V1ZCAYA PROV1NC




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124^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.:,' * "'*V
^f^^^.-'nails     Thi,'.,  gin i*  pi stert              of com  *ece.Isa
over 200 feet n length. It often  rows to a length of 500 and~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~0ffft0:fD~t;0:
^.*/' —;,;'''''.feet.:  here.*.This  rata   c  ne  h*sad  hiso  h
'"*^~:''ii**.;'-.;..*'their anlsto a pswihrtacodafrmabdfI to          *.*.**':.''".:. v.*;.the'. carabao.'stable beow  whl  h*ohrwn  nwt  e
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or six' inches in; diameter' are used for.b ngin waterfromthe
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ATTAN, ONE OF T  MO5T USE UL 0  T E 1SLAN~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ P ODUCTS: T 




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I25


well. Bamboo musical instruments are in use here. I saw a
whole band equipped with bamboo horns in a remote village,
and the strange part of it was that the music wasn't bad!
Any little barrio in the Islands can shake up at least one
band. Often, as the sweet strains of Spanish melodies have
reached me, I have said: "Music is their best inheritance from
their conquerors."
To reach Nueva Vizcaya from Manila means a long saddle
journey from the end of the railroad. To go on to the Cagayan
Valley one cannot follow the upper river of the Cagayan,
excepting in a canoe, and even then with great difficulty. The
trail lies across the pasture lands of Nueva Vizcaya, rich cattle
ranges of the future, to Echague in Isabela Province, from
where the Cagayan River is navigable. The easier way to the
tobacco country is by steamer from Manila to Aparri in two
and one-half days and up the river by launch to the towns of
Tuguegarao and Ilagan. There are more Spaniards left here
than in any other part of the Islands, for the tobacco business
is still virtually in their hands.




CHAPTER XV.


MAKING CONVICTS INTO MEN.
NCLE SAM deserves a big gold medal for his prison systemn in the Philippines, which ranks among the great
missionary efforts of the world. "Success" should be stamped
on one side of the medal with a big "S"; "For Bravery" in high
relief on the other side. It required courage of no mean order
to bring this system into being, and the "daring experiment,"
as other nations termed it, has proved an unqualified success, in
spite of dire predictions. The world's progress has gained
more from intelligent experiments than from accidental discoveries. Away off here, on the other side of the world,
Americans have patiently worked out a new penal method, step
by step, recasting criminals into citizens, making the skulking
convict into the industrious man.
How was it done? you ask.
You have read of the Walled City of Manila, with its
age-scarred gates, narrow streets and fine old churches, but
my story begins in a smaller walled city there, built also by the
Spaniards-Bilibid Prison-which came into our possession in
I898. I have heard that the soldiers had to use smelling salts
to get within gunshot of the place in those days. The United
States army gave the prison a first-class cleaning and turned it
over to the civil Government in 19oI. From that date real history in Bilibid has been made.
My interview with Mr. M. L. Stewart, director of prisons,
was most interesting.
"How long have you been engaged in the work here?" I
asked.
"Nine years, the last three as director."
"What is there about the prison that is unusual?" (I had
126




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overd3~"
Ve passed through the gates, which slid open at our~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~::
a~appoah and-!:I eneedte ra idstil eatmns hc
cover~~~~~~~~~~~~~~; most of he tweny acres ithin te walls
~~~-'X3hen a a     neste rsnh       uti urnie
said th dreto. H  s red f ntstna praitsvhc
are-=  th i so rpca onreadleae u hrogl
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X". *  h i' *  '
ma        r,:.  tismt  talr cabi ta maker, capntr mason silver-:.:.'
are..   treated jutst as they *wouild' be.in'.fitst-class'factre i  h. the barr ks  Ihey workaeven nd on     alf hurs a ay an
the prso    wal.Peeae 2          rsnr in. each' dormnitory".-:;..,;'**^."v'.;' ~      ase   if* ther was a schooll"  inc: thise  edan  to...1."   gh    new-fangle prison.;
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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I3I


bamboo and rattan.   The chairs were especially attractive.
"We send the big one known as the 'Bilibid chair' all over
the world. It's the best known article we make. Sixty dollars
gold for an office desk," pointing to one in the beautiful Philippine hardwood, "and we can't supply the demand. Carriages
and wagons? Yes, we make all kinds. Any poor farmer can
have a pair of wheels, paying for them by working on the roads.
We're trying to save the roads."
Canes and swagger sticks are listed in the sales catalogue,
and they make special swagger sticks, which are very British,
"dontcher know," for the United States Marine Corps, the
Order of Carabao, etc.
Prisoners receiving sentences of five years or more are sent
to Bilibid. The women make lace, embroider, and assist in the
splendid hospital, erected entirely by convict labor.
"Four-thirty! Time for retreat!" said Mr. Stewart.
We climbed to a tower in the center of the grounds, representing the hub of a wheel. From it the dormitories radiate
like spokes to the great circular wall which forms the tire.
All at once the band trumpeted out the call and the triangular
yards, separating the dormitories, sprang to life. Three thousand men lined up like soldiers on parade. A silence, a signal!
Then each prisoner removed his hat, brought it down to his
right side, then up and across to his heart, as the sweet and
inspiring strains of the "Star Spangled Banner" filled the air
and the flag over the tower was slowly lowered. There was a
lump in my throat. This salute from thousands of men of an
alien race, deprived of liberty, to the glorious banner which
stands for freedom and justice and equality must pull at every
man's heart-strings.
After a rhythmical drill the men marched to the kitchen
door with their dinner pails, and in seven minutes every man
had received his portion and marched on with it to his
dormitory.
While Bilibid is the penitentiary of the Islands, there are
many provincial prisons, thirty-four in all, caring for 2,500
short-term convicts. At Bontoc in the Mountain Province there




132            PHILIPPIN     ISL lAWS
is a pri on for the Wild Tribes and one for the Moros at ai
boanga on the island of Mindanao. Here as at l3ihbid, the
opportunity for an industrial education is eagerly embraced.
So far my story has been of prison and pi isoners und r the
hadow of the walls, w thin range of the guns of the guards.
Now we'll shift the scene for the trong third act, the act that
many predicted would end in a bloody tragedy.
As the curtain ris s, we see a tropic i le, Palawan 3O miles
southwest of lanila. This island is isolated from the others
of the Philippine group, ly in nea r ti e China coast.
When the plan for e tablishing a unique colony for l3ilibid
prison rs on Palaw n was brought to the Governor-General,
h looked it over doubtfully. The best conduct men v re to
be moved to the island and a town founded, whi h they x cre
to rule th n selves. They were to elect their judges, select
ti eir juror, and ppoint their policen en. Tb y were to be
without guard.
"Wh n I looked over th Ii t of crimes committed by the
prisoners chosen to start a colony, I was a bit staggered," aid
the ex- overnor-C eneral, Jame Smith, now lving in Mashington, D C. But the plan was started and the American
prison a sistant s wife bravely went with him to Pda i,
Today the Iwahig colony, across the bay from the town of
GOV RNMENT 0 FICIAL AT PEN. CO ONY, I LAND OF PALAWAN




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.


133


Puerto Princessa in Palawan, has I,200 prisoners, and there is
not a firearm on the place. There is a reservation of forty
square miles. Here the original twenty-five convict colonists
hewed their homes from the wilderness. As this most daring
experiment showed symptoms of success, more credit men were
sent down from Bilibid. They were taught agriculture in
many branches-all about cattle raising.
In I9I4 there isn't a town in the Philippines that can compare with Iwahig for law-abiding citizens, for honesty, or for
sanitary conditions. The spotlight on this scene is "The
Helping Hand."
After a six months' trial, the prisoner is given five acres of
land which he may improve after working hours and on holidays. If he makes good, the Government steps in and helps
him, loans him money for farming implements and for a home
with furnishings. This loan he will repay out of the products
of the farm. If he is married, the Government brings his
family from any part of the Philippines and takes care of the
wife and children until the farmer can care for them. When
a man's sentence expires he can leave Palawan or remain in
the colony. Over eighty families have remained. Iwahig has
its own currency, its cooperative stores, its baseball league.
Since the success of the work is now proved, the town is to
be moved to a better site on higher ground, well away from
floods. It is to be a larger town with a civic center, parade
and athletic grounds, a theater, library, schools and churches.
All the buildings will be erected by the colonists and I,oo,ooo
bricks have already been burned. Palawan is out of the earthquake belt, so brick buildings are practicable.
At Iwahig Uncle Sam has brought criminals through
imprisonment into the glorious light of day. He has made
convicts into men. And which is the better method? The old
one of opening the prison doors to men broken in health, forever lacking self-respect, branded as convicts? Or this last word
in humane treatment to our weaker brothers, this evolution
into industrious, upright citizens? Do you think the Filipino
would continue this work? I don't.




CHAPTER XVI.


COASTING THE VISAYAN ISLANDS.
LL aboard for the Visayas! Manila may be the capital of
Philippines and Luzon the largest island, but forty-six
per cent of all the Filipinos live on the islands known as the
Visayas, halfway down the archipelago.
Panay, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, Leyte and Samar are the big
ones of the group, surrounded by innumerable islands and
islets. Here live the Visayan people, speaking one languageif you allow for differences of dialect. Here are the best sugar
lands and some of the best hemp lands in the Philippines.
Here are the busy cities of Cebu and Iloilo, rivals for second
place after Manila.
Iloilo is our first port, 300 miles southeast of Manila Bay,
on the island of Panay. Summer seas, this voyage! It is like
sailing on a lake. Yet within a few weeks, or even days, this
coast may be lashed by the typhoon's fury.
Iloilo looks flat and uninteresting from the sea, but we have
two days in port, while the ship loads sugar, so there is time
for a more favorable impression.
"You pay one centavo a minute for your rig," said the
captain. This is equal to one-half cent in the States. On the
waterfront was a vehicle which looked like a diminutive omnibus. It was drawn by an ox.
"What do you call this sort of a carriage?" I inquired of a
fellow passenger.
"We call it a tartanilla down here," he said.  "Up in
Manila there are a few of 'em left from Noah's Ark, and they
call 'em the quilez. You can't fall out, but you're always sliding backward. Don't take the ox-cart. Here comes one with
a pony."
The pony-cart was about half the size of the tartanilla, but
'34




^l'^'^PHL-PI         ILADS13
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thi is: th  chie market* fo h;ientv  coh  sadp*::-.*****curb, w^hose state  it  was.
*****'*'.,*.''* ^It  's'Josie R  esr" h  nweead i  intdw




136


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


upon me until some time later that he meant Jose Rizal. Our
enlisted men are not much on Spanish pronunciation.
The patriot of Luzon, then, is beloved throughout the Philippines. As a rule the Visayan has very little use for the
Tagalog. In this division of interests lies the stumbling block
to the unity of the Filipino people.
A well-paved road connects Iloilo with the suburb of Jaro,
where we went. Passing a hoary bell tower in the plaza and
other marks of early Spanish rule, we came to the market
gate. Here many carabaos and oxen drowsed under a shelter
after hard toil in country roads. Clumsy carts, covered with
straw awnings, lined the highway. In one of them sat a girl
weaving a hat from a fine grade of Manila hemp.
In hundreds of little booths the produce and wares of Panay
were displayed, everything from the finest piia cloth to the
coarsest basket. Here was a dainty American woman, dressed
in white, bargaining, in broken Spanish, for a flimsy piece of
jusi; there a dark-eyed Mestiza examining a long row of tortoise-shell combs.  The Mestiza was evidently of SpanishFilipino blood with a dash of Chinese. She wore the native
costume of the Filipina, but had slippers and stockings instead
of the floppy chinelas and bare ankles. Through the whole
market was the odor of coconut oil from the women's heads
and the even more pungent odor of ilang-ilang, the popular
perfume made from the native blossom..From one booth hung Manila hemp like strands of golden
floss;Iin the next sat a wrinkled old witch chewing the betela seller of lamps, which were heaped on the ground in front
of her. The lamps were simply old bottles of every size and
variety, fitted with wicks and tin stoppers. These, filled with
coconut oil and sometimes with kerosene, illuminate the homes
of the masses
"Well, I thought a Visayan would look altogether different
from a Talalog of Manila," said my companion. I confessed
that I could not see a marked difference.
"I think they do look a little more like pure Malays," he
added. "There isn't so much Spanish blood down here."




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140            PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
cry tallizes into s gar
Then it i p eked in
palm-leaf ag tied with
rattan. This is called
"mat sugari
Another old method
borrowed from the phinese, con ist of boiling
the cane juice down to a
heavy mass which is
poured nto big earthenware jars called pilons.
The plo has a hole in
the bottom, like a flower
pot, thro gh which the
molasses drips.
The Payne tariff bill
started the u ar plantr of the Visay s on the A TYFIAT FIS IL M N VI AVAN
up hill He was able to
pay his debts and higher wage with the increased pr e of
sugar, and to impo t  any carabacs. In fa ing the n atter of
free sugar f eight is expensive from her to the world'
great markets, on the other hand, Ia r is cheap and much
cane is grown without fertilization.
In coa ting the Visaya, the traveler's attention is often
c lIed to watch towers on the shores reminders of those turbul nt ye r when pirati al Moro fleets infested these wat r
TI e bloodtWrsty Mohammedans swooped down on the p aceful
V ayans, carryng them off to slavery in Mindanao and Job.
Sailing n a roundabout way from the island of Negro to
Cebu, we passed Leyt and Sama to the east, with little Masbate to the north. All these island re rich a riculturally
And now we come to Cebu, econd city of the Ph lippines
on the sland of the same na lie. Cebu i the oldest Furopeat'
ttl ment in the I land the place where v agellan landed.




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142           PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
AUGUSTINIAN C IU CH C U CONTAININ THE "HOLY CHILD
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~~PILLPN IT laNDS               143-:Xf?
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44             'HILIPPINE ISLANDS
I
CE U ISLAND OF CE U, OLDEST SPANISH CITY IN TIi PIJILIPPIN
tr nger's ears uperior Tahng Tin Eoncepcion Au Fin
Roberto I o Lung, etc. There se m, however, to be some
love for the motherland across the China Sea, for a short
f me ago, when the new President of China was in ugurated
the multi colored flag of the new republic waved on every street
in Cebu. The Chine e here do not speak English, but know
Span sh and N' is yan quite as xvell as th ir own tongue
I vas surp s d to find so little English spoken an ong the
Visayans. fhe reat bulk of the peopl speak only their native
tongue. Some of the older men and von en know a little
Spanisi At the two motion-pi ture theaters the titles to the
films are r t in English, then in Spanish The isappointng
4
4
A YICAL TFETINCEBU




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS                  145
part of it is the childrcn's not knoWn En Vsh. After our
sixteen years of tol over her, I xpe ted that every youngste
wonid be ble to carry on a conver Won n 'the language of th
flag" I asked an Am rican teacher 'n Cebn about it ud he
said
'Yes, I know the children on this i land are bac ward, in
spite of Cebn being the second city of commercial importan e.
his part of the country x as very unsettled when the Amen
CALLI7 COLON CFI3U T ir OLD T T FET IN TIlE PIIILiPP NE
cans can e over. There were a lot of lawless people at larg
and the school, out of town, have only ji st gotten a t rt I
think, anyway, that the isayans are more primitive than th
Tagalogs or Bicols p in Luzon. I ye worked with them all.
Still, these Visayan are more faithful Tb y make the best
se vants in the Islands."
I bel eve that the trouble s deeper seated. It date back to
the time when the Anti-Imperialists in th States frightened tl e
ins lar overnment into b ing self-supporting. Our orig nat




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148              HILIPPM[F I LANDS
tue 'Qr at fire protection. I ots put aside for a 'ra niess
day'2
The "Osmen Water Work 7 ye read on the sign, and the
'Osmena Fountain" o t on the new avenue. Senor Osmena is
ebu's most distinguished citizen Speaker of the National
Assembly in Manila, he is slated for the Presidency of the Filipino republic by the Visayans.
"What would yot do" I asked a native of C bu who speak
Spani h, 'if you had md p ndence and a Tagalog became
P esid it?"
'We would go to wa," he replied Osmena is the only
Fifpino entitled to be first President,"
The Philippine Government has a model leper colony on the
island of Culion, between Mindoro and Palawan, and Cebu, it
se ins, has be n ts hief sot rce of supply. I asked a health
officer about it
'Well, a hundred years ago, th Spaniards established a
le er hospital here and the afflicted were shipped in from all
CULION LEPER OLONY. CETiU AS S NT 4,000 L PERS TO TUE OLON




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS                 149
part of the isaya The hosp tal overflowed and a lot of th
lepers moved out, settling on the outskirts of the city nd over
on ti e little island of Mactan. They were never brought in
and the disease has flourished. We ye sent over 4,000 lepers
to Culion, over 400 last year. M ny of them have died
only about 2,500 there now'
The people in ebu tell you that the cfmate i more healthful
than in Manila, much drier here were too many mosquitoes
to suit me and not enough sewers. Some of the nexver home
are on high ground back of the town toward the range of
n ountains, which forms the city s attractive background
Dance hall are very popt lar h re and seem quite e pect
able om the hot I bal ony I could look into one across the
TI! LOMP 0 MA ELLAN




I5o


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


way, where young men and women waltzed, two-stepped and
"ragged" to the latest American music. The men pay 20 centavos a dance and the girls get half of this. All Filipinos love
dancing better than anything on earth, but how the women
manage to keep the chinelas on their stockingless feet as they
whirl about, is the deep mystery.
The traveler's Mecca in Cebu is to the island of Mactan,
reached by launch in half an hour. At the village of Opon,
where there is a new Osmefia pier, I hired a young Filipino to
drive me to Magellan's tomb. The vehicle was a remarkable
affair, called a flecha. You sit on a rattan-covered cart, with
legs hanging out behind, and hold on hard to the railing. In
about an hour we came to the end of the island, where coconut
palms form a shady grove. Here, gleaming white in the sunlight, is the tomb of Ferdinand Magellan. His tomb, I say —
it is his monument, rather, for his bones bleached on the nearby
shore, no man knows just where. But to this point he came
in the combat with the savage Malays and just over there
he fell.
The monument was erected in i866 by a Spanish Governor,
but lapsed into decay. An American merchant, living in Cebu,
recently restored the pile at his own expense, since the Government seemed disinterested. It is a landmark which should be
reverently preserved for all time in remembrance of the greatest navigator the world has ever known.




CHAPTER XVIII.


MINDANAO.
INDANAO, the second largest island in the Philippines,
is just beaten by a nose, in the race for size, by Luzon.
In fact, it took the judges some time to decide which was
entitled to first prize. Both are eight times as large as Samar,
winner of third place.
Mindanao, with over 40,000 square miles, is as large as
Cuba and a little larger than the State of Maine. It lies 500
miles south of Manila, with which it is connected by a number
of steamer lines. One of the Government's first acts was to
provide transportation between these islands. Seventeen coastguard cutters were purchased and given the task of preventing
smuggling and promoting legitimate trade. Many towns which
had never been visited by vessels large enough to carry cargo
were put on regular routes. When the small planter found
there was a market for his products he brought them to the
coast. As trade developed commercial steamer lines took the
place of the Government vessels, which steered off to search
out other routes in need of service. Freight and passenger
rates on all lines are fixed by the Bureau of Navigation in
Manila, a control greatly appreciated by the shipper and the
traveler.
On reaching Mindanao we were surprised to see the name
spelled "Mindanaw" on the side of a British firm's warehouse.
The British take great license in the spelling of foreign names
in every port of the world, performing a surgical operation
whenever possible. A traveler once asked an American why
the Burmah of our schoolbooks is now spelled "Burma."
"Oh!" replied the Yankee, "you see the British took it, and
they drop their h's."
Authorities agree that, while undeveloped, Mindanao is the


11


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I54


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


Visayan Islands from whence these people came. The most
imposing building is the Government school with a manual
training branch.
In Luzon, rice is the leading article of diet. The hulling is
the woman's work and every traveler remembers the thump!
thump! of the heavy pestle in the crude wooden mortar under
the house.
Farther south, in the Visayas, corn becomes the staple and
each house is provided with its primitive grist mill, usually
operated by men.
In Mindanao, the sago palm is the meal ticket. Nature is
kind and raises them by the thousands. Each great palm produces one hundred pounds of sago, which is scraped out,
washed and dried in the sun. The whole family "gets busy"
here.
In Misamis I saw hanging baskets filled with rare orchids
at the window of every humble home. Each house has its own
squad of policemen, noisy little lizards, which scamper over
walls and ceilings. Their clicking 'That's so!" in the night
hours sounds loud enough to have come from a crocodile, all
out of proportion to their diminutive size. These little creatures are never molested, as they are the insect traps of the
country. They sally forth at dusk to satisfy their magnificent
appetites on mosquitoes, ants and flies and any other insects
not too large for their mouths.
One of the great pests in Mindanao, as on other islands of
the group, is the rat. There are many local varieties not found
on other islands, but having the usual annoying and destructive
appetite. Hordes of hill rats enter the village houses at night,
leaving at daybreak. When the crops are in the field they do
not enter the houses in such large numbers, but when outside
food is scarce, it is really necessary to anchor one's shoes. I
speak from first-hand knowledge, as I lost mine.
Some years ago the Government, realizing the economic
loss to the farmers and the great hazard from bubonic plague,
offered a bounty on rat skins. Some crafty Chinamen went




c~.^ —'''*by: '.the wholesale, s  te  out
was bolihed
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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I57


Our Government has done splendid work in uplifting these
savages. We have stopped their being imposed upon by the
Moros. Trading stores have been opened in Agusan Province,
where the natives sell basket-work, wood-carving, native cloth
and articles of ornamentation for a good cash price and buy
foreign goods and provisions. We operate experimental
farms where seeds and plants are distributed, and encourage
the people to take up the forty-acre homestead allotted each
male by law.
Many Manobos who used to build their homes up in the
trees, far away from their neighbors, now live on the ground
in farming communities. The Agusan Farm School Settlement has over Io,ooo banana plants under cultivation and an
equal number of papaya trees.
The progress toward civilization has been greater among
some of these wild tribes of Mindanao than with any other
people in the Philippines. They have the longest road to
travel. There is much work of this nature yet to be done, as
some of the tribes are still very savage.
Some years ago a Government scientist was killed by the
natives while collecting geological specimens.  Professor
Ickis was making his way across the island from the south with
only one constabulary soldier as guard. In the wilderness of
the headwaters of the Agusan River, the two men were
attacked by Manobos. The Professor was felled by a blow on
the head, but the Filipino soldier was frightfully tortured
before being killed.
It has since been learned that the wild forest folk misunderstood the gathering of so many rocks by the scientist. They
thought he intended to stone them. They claimed their right
to kill the soldier, as a Filipino had once mistreated a Manobo
woman. After many efforts the authorities succeeded in capturing the murderers. Professor Ickis' remains were recovered and sent to the States.
This is the only case of which I have heard where an
American has been killed by the pagans of Mindanao, a great
contrast to the bloody record of the Moros.




CHAPTER XIX.
ACROSS MORO LA TD.
"AAJ IY don t you go overland across Mindanao? Much
VV more interesting than goin by boat Good automobile road part of the way and the army will provid an
e cort for the saddle trp th ough the jungle."
This adv ce fro u an American ex-soldier sounded good to
us, even though our informant owned the automobile line and
bad come aboard at Iligan to hu tIe up passengers.
he Unit d Stat s army has char e of the road across the
Lanao district in the Moro Province from Iligan, on the Sea of
find iao, to Malabang, on the Celebes Sea. The road follows
the coast to the army po t t Ca up Overton. fhen it trikes
inland, el mbng 2,300 feet in twenty-three mles, to Camp
'<
M LANAG MO 0
158




PHILIPPINE ISLANDSL


I59


Keithley, on the shore of Lake Lanao, dropping down from
Camp Vicars, on the other side of the lake, to Torrey barracks
at Malabang. The country, you will note, is well fortified and,
although there has been no trouble with the Lanao Moros for
over a year, an armed escort accompanies the few travelers
who pass through.
In the Moro Province, where the Americans have met with
their greatest difficulties in the Philippines, the Government
positions are mainly held by army and constabulary officers.
The Moro Province is divided into five districts. Four of
these, Lanao, Zamboango, Cotabato and Davao, are on the
island of Mindanao; the fifth district includes all the islands in
the Sulu archipelago.
Lanao has long been cursed by the lawlessness of its Moro
inhabitants and it is not yet considered safe to travel away
from the ports unarmed. Major Gilheuser, Governor of the
district, is a constabulary officer, a splendid type of American,
and to his wise efforts in pacification the traveler crossing the
beautiful Lanao country is indebted today. It was not long
ago that wild Moros, armed with rifle, kris and barong, lay in
wait along the highway.
The road from Camp Overton to the lake is through a
majestic forest. It follows the foaming Agus River, leaping
from highland lake to sea. Here lies a great source of hydroelectric power. At the Maria Cristina Falls the river drops I9I
feet over a fern-hung precipice. We can estimate 30,000 horsepower at the falls and probably 500,000 horsepower between
Lake Lanao and the coast. Some day a fraction of this force
will be utilized in carrying freight and passengers to the plateau. Above the forest belt we reached an open, grassy plain
where Moro ponies graze. Thousands of head of cattle could
be pastured here. It certainly is a white man's country, if we
can civilize the inhabitants, and I am of the opinion a Christian world demands their civilization or extinction.
On the highway we met our first Moro, a strange creature
with long black hair twisted up in a rakish knot on one side of
the head, while a gaudy cotton cloth, worn like a turban, slid




111111^^HIIPI            ILAD
down toward the opposite ear.  He wore a ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ersey-1ike shirt, **:.*
Illl~ly'^ski i tgh  touer  ad  ashaefotd. usfiur  w  sim
ahnol^^^'   t irihth  on  hi ad  o hear f eni  it, u
the'^  expres. io  f  i  fc  a  er  m.Th  olrofh
~^|f^(^;:;- kinn wa  owlietato  t  ilpns  a te  nrh
Of late tI e wi ked Lanao  Moro  have turned o ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~*;er* a'new/
^y:^*::^leaf.  Thyh  i  ose  ht  nl  't st4schahd  hp
^y^A^.:^^- after- all,:"' I  raste  arya  bid  odras  ra
^jij'mroemntovrrokytrilThy r pyig herod a
l;!!:^''':',of- two peso  and.; th  edl  txof$.' itot  ium r
^^I^^VT;athrtis     av  rrngda  atvecutt  hchmet
ll~y^^'fCweekly to<'.' ettl  all petty  disputes,:'': an''***,' at./; rangement: very  satisII?^^.^factory toth  o1 Th  outcossto  fv  ws  ne




PHILIPPIN JSL4NDS
Datos were the obles of the country and their pow r is still
great with the mass s. Many of them have n ade the long
pil rimage to Mecca and have the proud titl of "H dji"
In Dansalan v met wealthy Dato, just hack from
Mecca, who was enthusiastic over the journey. He owned a
pony and art and wanted to buy an automobile, but was dis
couraged fi the Governor, who was afraid he would rt n into
ev ry one on the road.
When his fin nees permit, the Moro takes unto himself the
four wives p rmitted by the Kor n, for II re faithful follow
rs of the Prophet and believers n his act ed Book. M ny
Datos have t ye ity Wi es, assuming that the "quartet law"
appli s only to common Moros. Som of thes wom ii of the
up er- lass har ms never go out of the house and are quite
fair, hardly resembling lalays A on tabulary of er, ii ho
saw one of them after a omb t with the Moros, told me that
th woman was no dark than a brunette in the State and
quit pretty.
Moro women do not fill an important position in the house
hold. lie men never forget that ther Koran de lares women
have no souls. Men on the other hand hax e only to die on
14
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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I63'


and two knives for a very nice girl and was still "shy" a carabao. Along came a rich man, who offered a big price for the
damsel, and the suitor lost ponies and knives along with the
lady.
The wife's position is never certain. Her husband can
divorce her in three seconds if he is a fast talker. All he
has to say is, "I divorce you!" three times, with his fingers
crossed, and the separation is final. The woman does not lose
standing, however, by being divorced, and may join another
syndicate of wives, if the opportunity offers.
The military post, Camp Keithley, adjoins the native village of Dansalan, on the shore of Lake Lanao. This marvelously beautiful sheet of water, thirty-five miles by seventeen,
surrounded by wooded hills, lies in an ancient crater. Scenery
and climate combine in making it a most desirable place for an
army post, a rival of Camp John Hay, near Baguio.
There is a full battalion of scouts stationed here. Native
troops, under various names, have been employed in the Philippines since the beginning of American occupation. In I901
Congress authorized the organization of the Philippine Scouts,
the limit being placed at I2,000. So far only 5,000 infantry
are enlisted. These men form part of our regular troops and
are under United States army discipline.  Privates receive
$8 gold a month, the Government furnishing quarters, food
and uniforms. The scouts are a highly trained body and have
done excellent work in our battles with the Moros. Besides
the 5,000 native scouts, we have I2,000 American soldiers in
the Islands. At one time we had 60,000 men under arms.
The command of the Philippines is considered the second
position of rank in the service.
Camp Keithley was named for an American hero-an
enlisted man, who, although wounded, fought his way through
the Moro ranks to give alarm of night attack. He died as he
reached an army sentinel near the spot where the post is now
situated.
We heard of another hero, a young constabulary officer, who
won his medal of honor in a hand-to-hand contest with the




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TIE-I^-f^:^;^^  DATOS OF MORO LAND
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i^ ^r;:'., *times'*.
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|||||j3^p|'':MOOiATOANDli| JucE
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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I67


show" in the Cotabato region and offered to go up and introduce us, we chartered a launch and set out.
The Rio Grande de Mindanao is as wide as its name, a
muddy stream bordered by low banks, which are overflowed
certain seasons of the year. Clusters of strange trees, with
branches projecting straight out from the trunks, were pointed
out as kopoc, or tree cotton.
"No, it isn't good for cloth," the American told us. "They
ship the cotton to the States and use it for stuffing mattresses."
"What else do you export from here?" I asked.
"Gutta-percha, for one thing. The trees are thick over there
in the forest. Almost half a million pounds came down the
river last year. It's the only kind of rubber that will do for
insulating marine cables, so it brings a good price."
We passed a sawmill and my inquiries brought forth a lot
of data which checked up with the lumber information gathered
in other parts of the Islands.
Lumbering in the Philippines promises to be a great business. The Islands have a virgin forest the area of Kentucky,
40,000 square miles, and half this amount as well is secondgrowth timber. There are over 2,500 varieties of tree species,
four times as many as we have in the United States and Canada. Besides the finest hardwoods in the world, there is much
timber suitable for building.
Major Ahern of the United States army, an expert forester, has been in charge of this branch of the work ever since
we arrived on the grounds and has carried out a wise policy.
The Government does not sell the land, only stumpage, and this
at a very low figure-from $i gold per thousand feet for
building timber, up to $5 for narra, the native mahogany.
Nature provides many of the tropical trees with a swelling
buttress, as an additional brace for their great weight in shallow soil. This bulge, often three times the diameter of the
main trunk, forms the material from which marvelous table
tops are cut.
China paid a high tribute to Philippine hardwoods when
the last Emperor of the Flowery Kingdom selected them for




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I69


for his intelligence. He speaks Spanish quite well and understands a little English. As a host we found him most agreeable. Food and drinks were served on a soiled tablecloth in the
front room of his two-story house, and we were introduced to
several minor Datos, who dance attendance on Piang.
One of these Moros was quite elaborately dressed and
was followed by two bearers, one with a large umbrella, the
other with a handsome brass spittoon.
"Doesn't Dato Piang ever rig himself up?" I asked the
army officer, who knew the old chief well.
"Oh, you should have seen him when they had the fair at
Cotabato," said the American, with a smile. "He came down
the river in a barge of state, propelled by seventy rowers.
From the mast flew his own peculiar flag, yellow, red and purple-and I can tell you the bamboo craft was 'some decorated.'
There was a clown at the bow, who performed antics, and a
dancing fool-just like the kings of old. There were twelve
male drummers, dressed in scarlet, and a row of female tomtom players. As for Dato Piang, I haven't enough adjectives
to describe his splendor. You can bet that barge made a hit!"
Piang has a large harem. He has had forty-eight children and twenty-eight are still alive.  Two of his sons speak
English and one has traveled in the States. His settlement
consists of many houses and shops. Among his varied business interests, I heard most of the manufactory, farther up the
river, where articles of great beauty are made. There are
wonderfully embossed "chow" dishes of metal, used for food,
with gayly colored straw covers; brass gongs of many tones,
and some of the finest weapons made in Moro Land-krises,
campilans and barongs, inlaid with gold and silver.
The most elaborate household in Mindanao does not belong to a Dato, but to a mere woman, the "Princessa," as she
is called in Cotabato. This Malay lady, tracing her lineage
from the Mohammedan conqueror of the island, has, as our
American friend expressed it, "a most marvelous collection of
junk." I have never seen so many barbaric urns, vases and
trays outside of a curio shop. A dozen dancing girls attend
12




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172


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


end of the western peninsula, capital of the Moro Province.
This, to my mind, is the most beautiful city in the Islands, a
little spotless town, kept spick and span by military rule. With
its time-worn fortress, wide, shaded avenues, coral-surfaced
streets, cool parks and attractive homes, Zamboanga is in a
class by itself.  The old gray fort tells the story of a mellow
past.  For centuries this has been the borderland of Christian
invasion against the Mohammedans.
We met another Dato here, Dato Mandi, who was no less
than Deputy Governor of the whole Zamboanga District, a
proof that the Americans appreciated his power with the
Moros.
Fourteen miles from the city, by a splendid motor road, is
San Ramon prison, built in the midst of a coconut grove,
overlooking the sea. The five hundred Moro prisoners have
built their own home-burned the brick and put up the buildings. Instead of a grim, stone wall, shutting off God's air
and sunshine, an open grating surrounds these buildings. This
is unique and a vast improvement over prisons in the States.
The men who are not busy on road work split and dry coconuts, for San Ramon is a great plantation. Work in the open
air proves the best method of redemption.
In regard to helping the wicked, weak or ignorant toward
better things, I heard of an unusual method employed by a capable American woman in charge of a school for Moro girls.
The first day the pupils appeared she gave them a bath with
palm-olive soap; the second day she washed their heads in
coal oil; the third day they got a dose of castor oil. Then
she began the lessons.




CHAPTER XXI.
BLOOD SOAKED JOLO
O F THE two hundred and fifty palm-f ring d, un-kissed
sle which form a chain f rot Mindanao to Borneo, on
he island of Sum has stamped ts name on the entire a chi
pelago. Popularly known as Job, after its chief city, t has
been the scene of almo t con taut bboodsh d for ove three
hundred years.
While all Moros are "poor benighted eathen but first-class
fightin' men," the SuIn brand is r ted a the world s greatest
scrapper. He has always fought, and to a finsh. The Spaniards learned ths, for their sold ers, se it to maintain peace,
returned in "peces." Bitter, bloody battle have ma ked on
sixteen y ars' effort to subdue these fanatical fatalists, y t
today they are still defiant.
Long before Ma ellan eached the Philippines, the Sulus
had become Mohamniedans l7h ir ruler, the Sultan, wa recognized throughout the archipelago. They had laws nd an
organized government, an alphabet and a system of education.
They fish d at d planted, had fi ear us and forts. Natur I born
navigators with speedy craft, they
lorded it over the Southern seas.
When the Spaniards expelled the
Sulus' brother Mohammed ns from Manila, the real contest be an. Moro warcraft ha ned the coast towns of the
northern islands. Ten thousand Chrisfan Filipinos were captured and enslaved. The women were di tribt ted
among the hiefs, the men anion the
wa r ors as field hands The aged were
A TYPICAL LYLU MO 0
173rACE.




174            PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
frequently old to wild t ibes in 13o neo to be sacrificed in
pa an rte.
As a proo of the fear inspired by these pirates, watch
towers tand today n many ports of the islands, where Spanish
entinel kept a harp lookout for "those cursed Su1ns" Th&r
reputation has worn well. A merchant on the i land of Cebu
told me that even now, if some one would stand in the mddle
4
I
JOLO PIER I I AND 01 SU1U.
of a v Ila street on a dark nght and yell "Moros half th
town would take to the woods.
The Spaniards retali ted. IL hey sent seasoned troops coin
manded by their ablest generals, to Job, the Wasp ' Nest
They were practcally exterminated by the bras cannon of the
Sulus.
More troops! More slaughter! Then whole fleet were
dspatched from Man Ia, a regular Armada! A landing wa
finally e ected and the town of Job fortfied But holding it
was s h rd as handling a ack of wildcats. The Spaniard
had to build a vail around the place




ziE I                        C! | St<I
11~~~~~~~ |.11       I?
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X S W W W | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~




I76


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


Spain was still fighting the Sulus when Dewey sailed into
Manila Bay. The Spanish troops left Jolo in May, I899, and
we garrisoned the fort the same day. What we have learned
at first hand about the Sulu Moros since then would fill
volumes!
From time to time a brief synopsis of this experience has
flashed by wireless from Jolo to Zamboanga and on to make
headlines for the press. A bit of sameness, perhaps, in these
dispatches to the stay-at-homes:
"Heroic Dash Up to Moro Cotta! Hand-to-Hand Conflict
With Demons!" But to the men making history there is variety enough!
Not many of us in the States know exactly what a Moro
cotta is; but we do know that Jolo is on the map and we have
a wholesome respect for their fighting men.
I, for one, did not appreciate what a wonderful series of
fortifications Nature had given the Sulus until I visited Jolo.
Thirteen hours out from Zamboanga we steamed past the battle-scarred island. Its sky-line showed a series of extinct volcanoes, their bowl-shaped craters plainly visible. As I stood
gazing at the port we were nearing, a ship's officer came on
deck.
"Do you see that peak back of the town?" he asked. "That's
Dajo, where General Wood rounded up a band of renegades
back in '96-killed every Moro in the bunch, I,400 of 'em. You
see these craters make great defenses," he went on. "Every
one of them has been a Moro cotta some time or other. You
heard about Bagsak? Forgotten? Well, look up some of the
boys in Jolo who were in the fight. They'll give you a story
worth while."
As we came alongside the dock I saw a familiar scene,
although I had never before been in Jolo. There they were-the
old lighthouse, the great stone gate, the waving palms-all the
first-act setting of George Ade's comic opera, "The Sultan of
Sulu."
I looked about for a jinrikisha, as we had used them in
Zamboanga and found them very comfortable.




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iSo            PHIL PPINE ISLANDS
used scout, ncludng several companes of Mndanao Moros,
and con tabulary, besides our regular soldiers
Six battles w e fought in a yea 's time, l3agsak, in June,
1913 being the fiercest eng ement of American arms in the
Philippines. In fact, the history of modern warfare contains
no pa allel to th five days of ncessant battle on this mon itain
slope and cre t.
Bags k, with its six cultivated acre within the er ter, has
long been the stron hold for rebels. All a ound the mountain
the Moros built unusually strong defense, or cottas, consisting
of adobe walls on bamboo fr nework, renforced y loopholed
lo Our troops u ounded Bagsak at night and at dawn the
mountain batterie started the attack on the lowest cottas As
the e we e d molished, the plucky Mindanao scouts led the
slow ascent to the crater. Every inch was cont sted. At nght
o r men built barbed-wire entanglements a ound their camp
as a protection from k ife thrusts but the loss, even then was
heavier than by day. It took one hundred and twenty hours
tocawlup2, feet.
A MO 0 WAR flANC




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


i8i


On the fifth day the Sulus were driven to their last cotta.
They knew that the end had come and they laughed at death,
for death on the battleground means Paradise Eternal to the
Moslem. Two hours of desperate hand-to-hand fighting and
our men reached the crater's brink. For an hour a leaden hail
poured in on the wild-eyed warriors-and it was the end.
The end? Yes-of Bagsak, which will long be remembered
for contempt of danger, the testing of men by fire and sword
-but not the end of the Sulu resistance.
"Were any women killed at Bagsak?" I asked an officer,
just out of the hospital. He eyed me cautiously before replying.
"You people over in the States don't understand," he said.
"Moro women dress like men and fight quite as desperately.
In the heat of battle we can't stop to inquire the sex. I got
that bolo thrust in my side from a woman." The subject was
dropped.
"How many Moros were killed at Bagsak?" I inquired.
"I don't know," he said, "the crater wasn't quite full. We
got over six hundred guns."
Lieutenant Whitney of the Philippine constabulary, who
received his medal of honor at Bagsak, where he was seriously
wounded, was made Governor of Jolo. Not long afterward he
was attacked by two Sulus armed with bolos. Grasping the
nearer with his left arm in such a manner that he was unable
to use his knife, the Governor, who was still badly crippled,
shot the second man, then turned his pistol on the one at near
range. I saw the knives which were taken from the dead
Moros and heard much of Whitney's coolness and courage.
He was ruling the Sulus with a rod of iron and, if only he is
allowed to carry out his policy, all the bad Moros will soon be
below ground.




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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I83


hours later, however, we were gliding away from Jolo's pier on
a small steamer which we had chartered, bound for "the other
side."
We had heard much about the Sultan. In these sunny
isles, within striking distance of the equator, where the even
climate hardly permits of weather conversation, the void is
filled by anecdotes of this representative of Allah. There is
nothing wrong with the Sultan's ancestral tree. He can trace
his royal branch back to the first Moslem ruler of the Sulu
archipelago.
When the Mayflower anchored at Plymouth Rock, sovereignty on this edge of the world was maintained by three
Sultans. One was at Johore on the Malay Peninsula; another at
Brunei in North Borneo; a third on the island of Sulu. Though
all were Mohammedans, there was great rivalry and jealousy
among them. Each was supreme over a large territory; each
ruled many subjects, had many ships, and made quite a display of royal splendor.
The Sultans of Johore and Sulu were on bad terms with
the ruler of Brunei, whose territory lay between, so they arranged an alliance against him. A princess of Johore was
given in marriage to the Sultan of Sulu.  In those days the
bride went to the home of the groom, so a gorgeous fleet was
equipped to escort the lady to the Sulu Sea.  Many gifts were
sent to the prospective bridegroom, half a dozen elephants
being a special feature.
But alas and alack! The wicked Borneo Sultan heard of
the program. Out on the China Sea went his armed fleet to
intercept the Johore flotilla. The bride was captured and taken
to Brunei, where she was added to the Sultan's harem. The
elephants sailed on in safety to Sulu. There they multiplied,
but had such an unpleasant habit of pulling up young coconut
trees that they were finally killed off by the Sulus.
The forlorn bridegroom did not overlook the bad turn done
him by Brunei. At the very first opportunity he sent a raiding
expedition to Borneo, capturing many headsmen, whom he held
as hostages until exchanged for a large section of territory.




84            PHILIPPINE ISLAN      S
MAT UN, OLD ST ETTL M NT ON ISLAND OF SULlY SUb ANS
AVE ALWAYS HAD A PALAGE H RE.
Th s land in Borneo remained subject to Sum rule through
many re n, until x86, when a British company offe d the
St Itan and his heir $ ocx (Mexican curr ncy) annually for
30, square miles including 6oo miles of oast line. This
offe was too tempting to he efused, and the British flag now
flies over North Borneo. So you see th Sultan of Brunei
who e entire territory be ame n time B itish owned or protected, paid quite a penalty for brid -stealing.
"There's Maibun," said the captain, 'that bunch of shacks
over to the right" I had expected more than this, for the
plac i the old st settlen ent on the island and has long been
the home of Sultans. We approach d at low tide and the
odor from the mud was almost unbearable. Mo t of the town
is built on les over the water, a popular method in the SuIn
country. About x ooo nhabitants would be a generou estimate A motley crowd assembled as visitors are rare here,
and word wa sent to the Sultan, who liv s on a hill half a mile
~ om the town. Before we could c Il on h m, he called on u.
Down th road he came, Jamalul Ki am IL, not as I pic




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i86            PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
unpretenfous as his home in Maibun, hut n Singapore, down
n the Strait S ttlements he owns a real palace which he rents
to a Chines gentleman.
ome year ago the Sultan made a tour of the world, visting many cifes in the United States, nd ha made several
trips to Singapore. He su Ily travels wth four wives and a
retinue, putting on qute a little style.
H s income $ considerahle. Beside his annual rev nue
from th North Borneo Company, Uncle Sam pays him $5,000
a year, for which amount he i supposed to u e his in uen e
tow rd peace A one of the hoys in Job expressed it, 'We
aren't gettin a run for our money."
The he has quite a evenue from the rent of pearliug
grounds and take many of the I rge pearls as his right from
native divers. Altogether he should be a rich man, hut unfortunately he is an inveterate gambler and los s money and pearls
to the crafty hinese fan tan players.
Our tour of the Philippines wa nearing its end as we
4
MORO ci ii DR N EADY 0 DiVE FOR coix SLAND 0 SULtI




HILIPPINE ISLANDS        187
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PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
them a chance to work their arm
and legs and et the excess of
nitrogen out of their ystem Yot
ee, the great pressure of the water
forces it into their hloocb"
Native still dve for pearls
without the modern air-pu ip and
some ope ate dredge, hut th n ajority of the shells are gathered by
the n w method.
'Did you e er he r how the sea
b ame phosi hor ent "asked the
cap in that night, as we plowed
our w y through gleaming water.
he n tives sa ti at long ago
a brave Rajab fought a wicked
giant. The Rajab killed his enemy, but in puWng b ck I i kr s,
his magic golden ring flew off and 2
roll d into the sea. He aw it
leaming near the shore and
reach d for it but it broke into a      ILE Ifl nS' NESTS FOR SA
thousand dazzling lights which
scattered over the w ter. And that's why the s a down here
phosphorescent"
From Job we sail d south to iasi awi-T wi and Bongao
sles not f r from the coa t of l3ori eo. he southern iost con
stabulary post ii the Philippii es is stationed on I3on ao and
th brave young of cer in ch rge here keeps peace, far away
fro ii reduforcemeuts from job. Swallow ' nest and harks
fins, so pri ed by the Chine as food are among the strange
shipments from this part of the world.
a These are the islands whch ive Uncle am' representative
tropical ightmare, for thi t e prin ipal smuggling ground.
i ust an easy hop fro ii Borneo over to these outhern
islands; then smooth sailin on to job and Mindanao, w th
transshpm nt to th north rn Philippines.




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CHAPTER XXIII.


WHAT WE SHOULD DO.
W     E NOW have arrived at the point where it is necessary
to sum up the result of our investigations and observations in the Philippines. Clearly, the United States Government under past administrations has achieved splendid
results in these Islands. The change and improvements effected
have been, in fact, surprising. From a stagnant, almost barbarous condition at the time of American occupation, the
interests and population of the Islands have been lifted toward
a distinctly higher plane.
Consider what is being done in the matter of the education
of the rising generation of these tribes. Not much can be
expected of the adults, to be sure, but the future of the Islands
may be molded for good by the educating of the young. In
that lies the real hope for the Philippines. English is now
taught in the almost 3,000 public schools, and to an average
enrollment in 1913 of 329,756 pupils. That is mainly the work
of the United States, and it means something. Turn the
Islands over to the Filipinos, and unquestionably the school
system will retrograde and culture decline.
There are successful trade and industrial schools in the
Islands, and elementary agriculture is taught in all the public
schools. For higher education there is the free State-supported
University of the Philippines, with colleges of Liberal Arts,
Medicine and Surgery, Engineering, Agriculture and a School
of Fine Arts. In 1913 there were 704 students in the collegiate
departments and 694 in the School of Fine Arts. A very good
showing, you observe. It would be a pity to put this fine
school system into the hands of half-baked native Filipino
politicians. We have done things well in the Philippines mainly because they have been done by intelligent authority, much
I9I




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


192


as we have done things in the Panama Canal Zone, Porto Rico
and Hawaii.
Besides establishing the school system, we have done many
other praiseworthy things. We have enormously increased
the commerce of the Islands and expanded the agricultural
area; we have installed 590 postoffices with 437 postal savings
banks, which have 39,909 accounts; we have strung the Islands
with telegraph lines and cables; we have increased the railroads
from 120 miles in I898 to 604 miles, with 440 miles building;
we have extended the system of roads until they comprise 4,531
miles, about one-half of which is hard-surfaced, and having
5,660 permanent bridges and culverts. We have established
successful newspapers and banks in the Islands, as well as
courts of justice; we have liberalized religion, and put the
money of the country on a secure gold basis. In my opinion,
we have done exceedingly well.
However, having done well thus far, it is unfortunately
now the policy of the American administration to undo much
of what we have done. In my opinion, that will be the result
of the present administration's policy of Filipino independence,
if carried into effect. A bill has recently been introduced in the
United States Congress the ultimate intention of which is to
give the Filipinos entire self-government. The bill has been
approved by the President and leaders of the administration.
The measure provides for a Government in which the GovernorGeneral and the members of the Supreme Court are the only
officials to be appointed by the President, and does away with
the Philippine Commission. An upper and lower house of
legislature are to be voted for by the people, and the preamble states that it never was the intention of the people of the
United States to hold the Islands permanently, which means
that presently they are to be handed back to the natives. In
my belief, a distinct and disastrous blunder is being perpetrated.
I am convinced by what I saw in the Islands that it would
be, ultimately, injurious to the Filipinos themselves to give
them independence, because they will be incapable of progres



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I93


sive self-government for generations to come, and always unable
to protect themselves against conquest by any nation that sees
fit to attack them. I predict that, if given independence, the
passing of a year or two would see them convulsed by revolutions, for the reason that the country consists of separate
islands and the population of mixed, inharmonious races.
Besides, great as has been our influence in teaching them civilized ways, they are, and will be for a long time to come, entirely unfit to use the franchise intelligently and peacefully, an
absolute essential in self-government. They have no proper
conception of what liberty and equality mean, and are wholly
unfit for a republic.
The mistake has been that from the first we have encouraged the Filipinos to look forward to the day when they will
have complete control of their Government. This has kept
them stirred up and dissatisfied, and has concentrated the attention of the people on political conditions rather than on economic affairs, an influence that has worked them injury.
Business institutions in the Islands are, naturally, at a loss
to know what to look forward to in the future. If the United
States remains in charge, they feel that things will be stable, if
the Islands are turned back into the hands of the natives, business men do not know whether the Government will hang
together, or what the laws will be. Depression has begun in
the Philippines; the Islands are rich in resources, and capital
is needed, but capital fears to invest where there is so much
uncertainty.
True, there is a certain demand for independence in the
Islands, but it is mainly made by the native politicians, who
would be freed of all restraint, and with what results you have
but to remember the revolutionary history of most tropic countries. Still, admitting that it is possible that they might maintain self-government against internal disruption, how long
would their independence last? If they are not able to protect
themselves against outside aggression, what is to become of
their independence?
We propose to hand them something which they cannot




194


PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


keep unless we protect them, and when they have involved
themselves in trouble with other nations, we will have to go to
war in their behalf about disputes in which we have no part
and over which we have no control.
If we are to assume responsibility, it is my conviction that
we should have control, especially of a territory so distant as
the Philippines, and one so obviously unfit for self-government.
On our part, responsibility without control has the appearance
of sheer foolishness, nothing less. In point of fact, the Filipinos are not fitted for wisely using the partial governmental
control which has already been given them, much less complete
mastery of the Islands. This fact is clinched by the unsatisfactory conditions developing in the Islands.
Here are some items to consider:
I. The Filipinization of the military service has continued
with greater activity than formerly.
2. Governor Harrison, who stated in his first address to
the Philippine people that he owed his appointment to the
activity of Manuel Quezon, Philippine Commissioner in
'Washington, is not popular with the Americans in Manila.
3. A number of departments have been discontinued, the
reason given being that the Philippine Government cannot
properly maintain them, indicating inefficiency.
4. Many Americans are out of employment, and have not
sufficient funds to pay their passage home to the States, the
result of a bad policy.
5. The Moro Province is no longer under military control.
The scouts have been replaced by native constabulary soldiers,
in smaller numbers, a bad thing.
6. The condition of sanitation is bad in Manila, owing to
the appointment of Filipinos as inspectors. If the flies have
come into Manila in great numbers because of neglected garbage cans, etc., the condition must be doubly bad in cities like
Cebu and Iloilo, where sanitary conditions are not so advanced
as in the capital.
7. There is no longer work to take young American
engineers to the Philippines. The stage of construction seems




PHILIPPINE ISLANDS


I95


to have ended, for the present, at least. We need these islands
for our young men to go to instead of to some country south
of the equator, under a different flag.
8. The business men of the Islands are uncertain about
the future, a fact that makes depression.
9. The custom collections fell off 2,889,765 pesos in the
last six months of I9I3. In the first three months of 1914
the total trade of the principal ports of the Islands decreased
1,525,500 pesos, showing the effect of mistaken administrative
policy.
However, the gravest question of all is our moral responsibility to this people, a people that we liberated from the tyranny
of Spain, and now propose to turn loose to probable selfdestruction or the questionable mercies of Japan or China.
We have done them much good; we should continue to teach
and develop them; it is a plain case of moral obligation, as well
as good business. If we wish to avoid war about the Philippines,
we should make them a permanent, integral part of the United
States; if we wish to invite war concerning them, a sure way is
to throw them on their own childish resources, then attempt to
protect them from other nations. To "make good" the platform of the political party at present dominant in the United
States, this course is now contemplated. I sincerely hope that
it may not be carried forward to its inevitable disastrous conclusion. We need the Philippines in the Orient as we need the
Hawaiian Islands in the Pacific on the road to that Orient, and I
enter my everlasting protest against the abandoning of the people of these beautiful islands to the disastrous destiny which
almost surely must be theirs if the difficult task of self-government is placed in their childish hands. We need not fear;
bread cast upon the water returns, and with time we will find
the Philippines valuable and profitable, as well as an example
of what strong, civilized nations should do in the uplifting of
the younger, weaker branches of the human race. Where the
Stars and Stripes once float they should never be pulled down.




I




UNITED STAT ES
COLONIES
AND
DEPENDENCIES
By W. D. BOYCE.
Mr. Boyce, for his papers, personally visited all the Colonies
of the United States, and wrote Travel Articles that were
more popular, when printed in serial form, than his South
American Stories. Possibly this was because they were about
countries under our flag.  He felt his work would not be
complete unless he included the Dependencies of the United
States. He returned to Cuba, after some years' absence, but
did not have the time to visit the Dominican Republic or Haiti,
but had the work done for him by competent employes. He
does not seek to take more than the credit of carefully editing
the copy and subject treated on these two Dependencies. The
success attained in producing "Illustrated South America" led
Rand, McNally & Co. to take the publication of the "United
States Colonies and Dependencies," also. The first edition is
ten thousand copies; retail price $2.50. If it is as good a seller
as "Illustrated South America" other editions will be printed.
Four Separate Books Containing the Same Matter as
"United States Colonies and Dependencies" are
Printed by the Same Publishers, at $1.25 Each.
"Alaska and Panama," One Volume.
"Hawaii and Porto Rico," One Volume.
"The Philippines," One Volume.
"United States Dependencies," One Volume.




ILLUSTRATED
SOUTH AMERICA
By
W. D. BOYCE
The "copy" for this book was originally printed in the "Chicago
Saturday Blade," one of our four papers, as Travel Articles, by
Mr. Boyce, on South America. Owing to requests from many people that it be printed in book form, it was issued by the oldest and
best known publishers of historical books and maps in Chicago,
Rand, McNally & Co., and in less than two years has reached its
third edition. Price, $2.50. For sale by all book dealers, or Rand,
McNally & Co., Chicago.
PRESS COMMENTS.
San Francisco Chronicle-The author has a natural bent
toward the study of the origin of the various peoples of South
America.
Brooklyn Eagle-A good book it is, every page bearing the
finger-prints of a keen and capable reporter.
New York Mail-Best pictorial record of travel yet.
Pittsburgh Post-It is a most valuable contribution to current
literature.
Atlanta Journal-In the 600-odd pages of this volume is a
wealth of human as well as historical and practical interest.
Cleveland Leader-He gave himself an "assignment" to "cover"
that territory and he came back with the "story."
Utica Daily Press-He wrote as he traveled while all the sights,
facts and events were fresh in his mind.
Editor and Publisher-In all this book of nearly 700 pages
there is not a dreary page.
Florida Times-Union-Written by an American business man
who catches the salient point of view.
Houston Chronicle-Full of valuable information and of commercial as well as literary interest.
Kansas City Star-An exceedingly readable volume of some
600 pages.
Troy (N. Y.) Record-A good substitute for an actual trip
through the little Republics of South America.
News, Salt Lake City-Hardly a page of this volume is without
illustration.
San Francisco Call-Recommended for the exceptional fullness and interest of its pictorial contents.
Evening Star (Wash., D. C.)-A wonderfully interesting, historically accurate, splendidly pictured and narratively delightful
book.
South American (Caracas, Venezuela)-A truthful portrayal of
first impressions.
Herald-Buenos Aires (Argentina)-A timely, interesting and
valuable treatise.




W. D. BOYCE CO.
(Established 1886)
PUBLISHER                      CHICAGO
THE SATURDAY BLADE
is twenty-seven years old and never missed an issue. It is a
big newspaper,' full of the big things that happen.  Special
attention is paid to news that continues from week to week, and
new inventions and discoveries. At all times it has an expedition in some part of the world for new and curious descriptive
articles and photographs. The Saturday Blade is illustrated
in colors.
THE CHICAGO LEDGER
is forty-two years old and has never missed an issue. It is a
periodical with special articles and departments. The fiction
stories are all written to order, usually topical, and with a moral
that helps to shape public opinion in favor of Justice, Right and
the Nobility of Labor. It is handsomely illustrated in colors.
THE FARMING BUSINESS
(Established in 1872)
"Business"-is the occupation in which a person is engaged.
Six million heads of families are engaged in the farming business, and about I,ooo,ooo are readers of the only paper published that helps in every way the farmer to get more money
out of his business while it entertains and instructs every
member of his family. The advertising columns of THE
FARMING BUSINESS are clean and will be kept clean.
The whole editorial policy is one of construction, not
destruction.
INDIANA DAILY TIMES,
INDIANAPOLIS, IND.,
is owned by W. D. Boyce Co. It is a popular afternoon Independent Daily of over 60,ooo copies daily and rapidly growing.
Circulation doubled in past two years. The motto the Daily
Times lives up to is: "A square deal and fair play for everybody."
Total Annual Circulation of the Four Publications
Ninety-one Million Five Hundred and
Eighty-one Thousand
















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