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 Family Library of Veterinary Medicine 
 
 Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at 
 
 Tufts University 
 
 200 VVesttKJ^f: Roacl 
 
 North Grs»ffon, MA 01536 
 
Jp:tc/A.t.i.i^ /VV^tZ^Jly' 
 
 
 RIDING: 
 
 ON THE FLAT AND ACROSS COUNTRY. 
 
BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 VETERINARY NOTES FOR HORSE-OWNERS. 
 
 AN EVERY-DAY HORSE BOOK. 
 
 Second Edition, Crown 8vo., \os. (>d. 
 
 The Field.— ^'' Of the many popular veterinary books which have come 
 under our notice, this is certainly one of the most scientific and reliable." 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 TRAINING AND HORSE MANAGEMENT 
 IN INDIA. 
 
 New Edition, Crown 8vo., 7^. dd. 
 
 The Veterinary Journal. — "We entertain a very high opinion of 
 Captain Hayes' book on ' Horse Training and Management in India.' " 
 

 \''"^-:^ 
 
 /t 
 
 
RIDING: 
 
 ON THE FLAT AND ACROSS COUNTRY 
 
 A GUIDE TO PRACTICAL HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 BY 
 
 M. HORACE HAYES, 
 
 {Late Captain "THE BUFFS"), 
 
 AUTHOR OF "veterinary NOTES FOR HORSE-OWNERS," AND "TRAINING 
 AND HORSE MANAGEMENT IN INDIA." 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY STANLEY BERKLEY. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 W. THACKER & CO./ 87 NEWGATE STREET. 
 
 Calcutta: THACKER, SPINK & CO. 
 
 Bombay : THACKER & CO., Limited. 
 
 1881. 
 
 lAll rights reserz<ed.'\ 
 
LONDON: 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Limited, 
 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 As my object in writing this book has been to teach 
 the Art of Riding in a " workmanlike " manner, I have 
 described, with certain necessary modifications, the 
 system adopted by our best steeplechase and flat-race 
 riders, which is the only one that will enable the horse- 
 man to cross the most difficult " country " with the 
 utmost safety, and to cover the longest distance with 
 the greatest ease to himself and to the animal on which 
 he is mounted. 
 
 Although many books have been written on military 
 equitation, no systematic work treating of our essentially 
 English style of riding, whether practised in the hunting 
 field, "between the flags," or on the racecourse, has 
 appeared previous to the present one, which I trust will 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 meet, to some extent, this literary want. Emboldened 
 by the success of a book I wrote on Training and 
 Racing in India, I have ventured to adapt a portion 
 of it to my present purpose. 
 
 I am afraid that at the mention of race riding, many 
 who have taken up this book may exclaim that they 
 do not want to ride like jockeys, and will therefore 
 throw it aside unread. I can, however, assure them 
 that the modern style of steeplechase and race riding 
 — as exemplified by Mr. Garratt Moore, Tom Cannon, 
 and George Fordham, for instance — is the very best 
 model for all ordinary requirements, although it need 
 not be strictly copied in every detail. 
 
 I have much pleasure in taking this opportunity of 
 thanking Mr. Stanley Berkley for his friendly labour 
 in illustrating my ideas in this work ; Mr. Edwin 
 Martin, the well-known Newmarket trainer, for hints 
 and corrections respecting the chapter on Race Riding ; 
 Mr. Nicholls, for his remarks on saddles, and for Figs. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 14 and 30; Mr. Benjamin Latchford, author of 'The 
 Loriner,' for Figs. 17 to 22, 25, 27, 28 and 29 ; Mr. Tom 
 Cannon, for help with the illustrations of the jockey's 
 seat ; and my friend, Captain Jones, for the racing inci- 
 dents with which he furnished me from his own long 
 personal experience. The drawing of a lady on horse- 
 back, is from an admirable painting by Mr. Herberte. 
 I gratefully acknowledge the kind aid afforded me by 
 several ladies of my acquaintance in writing the sixth 
 chapter. 
 
 M. H. HAYES. 
 
 Junior Army and Navy Club, 
 
 Grafton St.,W. : 21st February 1881. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 How to Hold the Reins — 
 
 PAGE 
 
 With one hand ...... 
 
 With both hands 
 
 To shorten Reins when held in both hands . . . . 3 
 
 Double Reins in one hand ...... c 
 
 ,, both hands c 
 
 To change Reins from both hands to one hand ... 6 
 
 MiHtary style _ 
 
 Putting on a slipknot iq 
 
 To Mount — 
 
 When standing still j j 
 
 Without Stirrups j. 
 
 '* Getting a leg up " j 
 
 During movement 
 
 To Dismount — 
 
 At rest ... . 
 16 
 
 During movement 
 
 The Seat — 
 
 Length of the Stirrups 
 
 Bumping up and down ..... 20 
 
 At Slow Canter ... 
 
 20 
 
 At the Gallop 
 
 2] 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hands ....'. 23 
 
 Riding — 
 
 Learning to Ride ........ 25 
 
 Riding a Horse up to his Bridle 31 
 
 Management of the Reins 34 
 
 To Start from the Halt 35 
 
 To Trot 35 
 
 To Canter .......... 37 
 
 To Gallop 38 
 
 To Pull up 38 
 
 To Turn the Horse .......... 39 
 
 To Rein back ......... 40 
 
 Holding a Puller ........ 40 
 
 Going up and down hill ....... 42 
 
 Swimming the Horse ........ 42 
 
 Riding and Bridling Horses which have Tricks or Vices — 43 
 
 Boring . . . . . . . . ... 44 
 
 Buck-jumping ......... 45 
 
 Chucking up the head ........ 48 
 
 Difficult to mount ........ 48 
 
 Forging 49 
 
 Kicking .......... 49 
 
 Rearing 50 
 
 Restiveness . . . . . . . . -51 
 
 Running Away ......... 54 
 
 Shying and Unsteadiness . . . . . . -55 
 
 Stumbling .......... 58 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 RIDING OVER FENCES. . 
 
 Jumping 61 
 
 Riding Refusers 69 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 RACE RIDING. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Standing in the Stirrups 78 
 
 Manner of Holding the Reins 8d 
 
 How to Handle the Reins 8^ 
 
 Starting • .... 83 
 
 The different ways of Riding a Race ^7 
 
 Judging Pace ^ 
 
 Waiting . 89 
 
 Making the Running 92 
 
 Waiting in Front 94 
 
 Keeping with one's Horses 94 
 
 General remarks on Race Riding 94 
 
 The Seat when Finishing 102 
 
 On Finishing 105 
 
 On riding Rogues 108 
 
 On riding Pullers ^^^ 
 
 Orders "3 
 
 On the Use of Spurs during a Race — ^'5 
 
 The proper way to use Spurs . . . . . • l^S 
 
 On the Use of the Whip— '^8 
 
 Using the Whip with the right hand 122 
 
 Changing the Whip from the right to the left hand . . .126 
 
 Effect of Punishment on Horses 127 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 STEEPLECHASE RIDING. 
 
 'AGE 
 
 Inspecting the ground 129 
 
 General Rules 130 
 
 Getting well away 131 
 
 Jumping Water 133 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 Diet . . .136 
 
 Walking the Weight ofif 139 
 
 A Sweat 140 
 
 Lamp Bath 143 
 
 Weighing . . . i45 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 A Lady's Horse 147 
 
 Riding Gear — 
 
 The Side Saddle . . • 151 
 
 The Stirrup Leather 155 
 
 The Stirrup Iron . . . . . . . .156 
 
 Saddle Cloth . . 158 
 
 Bit and Bridoon 158 
 
 Martingales . . . . . , . . .159 
 Adjustment of Side Saddle 159 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Holding the Reins and Whip i6i 
 
 How to Mount 163 
 
 The Seat 168 
 
 Action of the Hands . .171 
 
 How to Dismount 172 
 
 The Rider's Dress — 173 
 
 The Habit 174 
 
 Skirt .......... 174 
 
 Jacket 176 
 
 Collars . . . . . . . . . .176 
 
 Sleeves 177 
 
 Cuffs . ' . ■ . . .177 
 
 Riding Corsets . . . . . . . . .178 
 
 Boots and Breeches 17^ 
 
 Trousers . . . . . . . . . .179 
 
 Hats 180 
 
 Boots 182 
 
 Gloves 183 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 Principles of Bitting 184 
 
 Snaffles— 
 
 The action of the Snaffle 189 
 
 The plain Smooth Snaffle 191 
 
 The Twisted Snaffle 191 
 
 The thin Racing Snaffle 191 
 
 The Chain Snaffle 192 
 
 The Double-ringed Snaffle . . . . . . . 192 
 
 The Gag Snaffle ........ 193 
 
 The Double-mouthed Snaffle ...... 194 
 
 The Newmarket Snaffle 195 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The American Snaffle . . . . . . . . 196 
 
 The Sawmouth Bridoon ....... 196 
 
 Tattersall's Leading Bit 196 
 
 Running Reins ......... 196 
 
 Curb Bits— , i97 
 
 Action of the Curb • • 199 
 
 Principles for Construction and Adjustment .... 203 
 
 Pelhams 208 
 
 The Chifney Bit 210 
 
 Bridle and Saddle Gear — 
 
 Names of the different parts of a Bridle 211 
 
 Headstalls 212 
 
 Browbands ......... 213 
 
 Throat Latches . . .214 
 
 Lipstraps 214 
 
 Reins . . . . . . . . • .214 
 
 Nosebands 216 
 
 Martingales . . . . . • • • .217 
 
 ' Saddles 220 
 
 Girths 227 
 
 Saddlecloths 228 
 
 How to put on the Bridle and Saddle— 229 
 
 The Snaffle 230 
 
 The Curb 230 
 
 The Curbchain . .' 231 
 
 The Throat Latch 231 
 
 The Noseband 231 
 
 The running Martingale • 232 
 
 The standing ,, 234 
 
 Prevention of Boring to one side 234 
 
 Preventing a Horse from carrying his head too low down . 235 
 
 Bridling a Buck -jumper .....•• 235 
 
 Saddling the Horse 235 
 
 Twisting the Stirrup Leathers 238 
 
 Choice of a Bit 239 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bridles 243 
 
 Martingales 244 
 
 Saddles 245 
 
 Stirrup Irons 246 
 
 Stirrup Leathers and Webs 247 
 
 Lead Cloths 248 
 
 Weight Jackets and Belts 249 
 
 Adjustment of the Racing Gear 250 
 
RIDING. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 How to Hold the Reins— To Mount— To Dismount— The Seat- 
 Hands — Riding — Riding and Bridling Horses which have 
 Tricks or Vices. 
 
 How to Hold the Reins. 
 
 When only one hand is on the reins — the left, for in- 
 stance — the near rein should be drawn between the third 
 
 Fig. I. 
 
 and little fingers, and brought out between the first finger 
 and thumb ; while the off rein should be placed over the 
 palm of the hand, so that both reins may cross on it. 
 
HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 The knuckles should now be turned up, and the hand 
 held as in Fig. 2, except that the knuckles should be at 
 about an angle of 45° to the ground, and not horizontal 
 as here shown, which would cause the elbow to be turned 
 out, and the arm consequently to work at a mechanical 
 disadvantage. If the knuckles be kept in a vertical 
 position, as in military riding, see Fig. 6, the " play " of 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 the wrist will be from side to side, and not forward and 
 backward as it ought to be. Shifting the bit about in 
 the mouth, by any lateral action of the rider's hand, will 
 tend to prevent the animal from "going up to his 
 bridle." The hand should be allowed to drop easily 
 from the wrist, while the elbow works in a line with the 
 side. The hand will then be in the most comfortable 
 position ; will be able to exert its strength to the best 
 
HO IV TO HOLD THE REINS. 
 
 advantage ; and can freely " give and take " to the 
 movements of the horse's head. 
 
 When both hands are used, the off rein is taken up 
 between the third and little fingers of the right hand, 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 while the "slack" of the near rein passes between its 
 first finger and thumb. Both hands will now have 
 exactly the same hold on the reins. 
 
 To shortejt the reins, when they are held in both hands, 
 and when the horse is not pulling hard, the hands may 
 be simply drawn apart, while the hold of the first, second 
 and third fingers of the hands on their respective reins is 
 loosened, and that of the little fingers is tightened on the 
 free part of the reins, which action will naturally cause 
 the hands to slide forward. When the proper length is 
 obtained, the first, second and third fingers of each hand 
 should close on their respective reins. The hands should 
 
 B 2 
 
HORSEMA NSHIP. 
 
 then be brought together in their original position, while 
 the slack of the near rein is allowed to slip through the 
 right hand, and the slack of the off, through the left. 
 This method is specially applicable to our purpose when 
 we are obliged to shorten the reins, and desire, at the 
 same time, to interfere as little as possible with the 
 horse's mouth. 
 
 If the rider wants to shorten his reins quickly, espe- 
 cially if he is riding a horse which requires some holding, 
 
 Fig. 4- 
 
 he should let go the slack of the off rein with, for instance, 
 his left hand, which he should slip forward on the near 
 rein, and, having got the proper length, he should take the 
 off rein between the first finger and thumb of the left hand, 
 30 that the reins may be held *' crossed " as in Fig. 4. The 
 
HO IV TO HOLD THE REINS. 
 
 right hand now quits its hold, and takes up its original 
 position on the reins. The left hand is carried forward 
 with a somewhat circular movement, so that an " even 
 feeling " with both reins may be maintained, the whole 
 time, on the horse's mouth. 
 
 With double reins held in one hand, the forefinger of the 
 left hand separates the two off reins, while the third finger 
 divides the two near reins, and vice versd. The reins are 
 crossed, as with the single rein. It is convenient to have 
 the reins, on which we want to have the strongest pull, 
 on the outside, while the other reins — the curb ones, for 
 instance— are kept apart by the second finger. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Double rei7is are held by both ha7ids, as depicted in the 
 above drawing ; or, both reins may be used as one. 
 
MORS EM A NSHIP. 
 
 When the reins of a double bridle are held in both 
 hands, it is well to have the snaffle reins on the outside, 
 and the curb reins, lengthened out an inch or two, on 
 the inside. 
 
 I may remark that the rider, if he chooses, may have 
 the near rein (when only one hand is used) pass outside 
 of the little finger, instead of between it and the third 
 finger. Or, when both hands are employed, the outside 
 reins may pass over the little fingers of each re- 
 spective hand, instead of between them and the third 
 fingers. 
 
 Ify when both hands are on a single pair of reins, the 
 rider wishes to take them up with only one hand — the left, 
 for instance — he may let go the slack of the off rein 
 with his left hand, and may pass the off rein into it, by 
 sliding his right hand back along this rein, and carry- 
 ing it behind the left hand before quitting it. Or, the 
 reins may be taken up with one hand, in the manner 
 described on page 4. The first method is applicable 
 for cross-country and ordinary riding ; the second, for 
 ** finishing," when the reins have to be shortened, at 
 the same time as they are taken up by one hand. 
 
 Double reins may be shifted into one hand in the 
 same manner. 
 
HOW TO HOLD THE REINS. 
 
 By adopting the system I have described, the rider 
 will be enabled to obtain the firmest possible hold on 
 the reins, while he can, with precision and rapidity, effect 
 every necessary change of grip, without disturbing in 
 the slightest the " even feeling " on the animal's mouth 
 which is essential to all fine horsemanship. 
 
 In military equitation, the cavalry man is taught to 
 maintain his hold on the reins by the lateral pressure of 
 
 Y'lz. 6. 
 
 his fingers, and by the downward pressure of the thumb 
 on them. The reins are divided by the little finger, and 
 are brought up through the hand between the fore- 
 finger and thumb. It goes without saying that this 
 method, or any modification of it, is far more tiring to 
 the hand, and affords a much less firm grip on the reins, 
 
HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 than our cross country and flat race style. It is fairly 
 well adapted for its special purpose, namely, that of 
 enabling the trooper to shorten the reins at will, with the 
 forefinger and thumb of the right hand, whose other 
 fingers are supposed to be occupied with the sabre or 
 lance. It is, however, wholly inapplicable to two- 
 handed riding, for, if the horseman wishes to use both 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 hands, he is obliged to lengthen out the off rein, in order 
 to get an "even feeling" on both reins, as in Fig. 7. 
 
 If the rider has, now, to quit the reins with the right 
 hand, as, for instance, when he is about to use the whip, 
 he cannot take up the reins in the left hand in the same 
 prompt and secure manner, as he can by the " crossed " 
 method. I need hardly point out that any " fumbling " 
 
HOW TO HOLD THE REINS. 
 
 with the reins, when they are being changed from one 
 hand to another, would be quite sufficient for a jockey to 
 lose a race, or for a hunting man to fail to prevent a re- 
 fusal at a fence. It frequently happens, in the hurry of the 
 moment, that the rider who adopts the " school " system, 
 neglects to shorten the off rein at all, and, consequently, 
 pulls his horse round to the left, by reason of the near 
 rein being shorter than the off. Another objection is that 
 one hand has got quite a different hold on the reins, 
 to that which the other has. When the reins are " crossed," 
 both hands have identically the same hold, while the off 
 rein can be passed into the left hand in an instant. 
 
 On this subject. Colonel Greenwood, in his excellent 
 work, 'Hints on Horsemanship,' pertinently remarks, 
 that " Even our finest two-handed English riders (who, 
 in my opinion, are the finest riders in the world), when 
 they use the right hand on the right rein, continue to 
 hold both reins with the left hand, and then slip the 
 right rein a little through the left hand in order to place 
 both hands even. This is a most vicious habit. When 
 they quit the right rein to use the whip, or to throw the 
 arm back at a fence (another most vicious habit), by 
 their system of holding and handling the reins they 
 have not the power to place the lengthe7ied right rein 
 
HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 short in the left hand. Alas, poor horse ! he is then 
 pulled to the left by the left rein, driven to the left by 
 the whip on the right, and then abused for answering 
 their natural indication, which he has been trained 
 habitually to obey." 
 
 With double reins, when the rider wishes to use only one 
 rein, he may put a slipk7iot on the other, at the desired 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 length, so that he may have it ready to take up at any 
 moment. It should be put well forward on the neck, so 
 that the horse, in extending his head, may not be liable 
 to bear suddenly on the bit to which the reins with the 
 slipknot are attached. ^' The reins should never be tied 
 in hunting, or in swimming a horse, since, by catching 
 
MOUNTING, 
 
 across the neck, they act like a bearing rein, and oblige 
 the horse to carry his head up and his nose in. In 
 hunting this would bring his hind legs on his fences, and 
 oblige him to leap from the top of his banks and to 
 land all fours, instead of extending himself and letting 
 himself down gently. In swimming it obliges him to 
 keep his whole head and neck out of water. I very 
 nearly drowned a horse in this way in the Serpentine " 
 (Colo7iel Greenwood). 
 
 As a rule, a man should ride with both hands on the 
 reins. 
 
 To Mount. 
 
 When standmg still.— ThQ rider should place himself 
 at the horse's near shoulder, take up the reins with 
 the left hand, and lay hold of the mane a little 
 in front of the withers. He should take the stirrup 
 in the right hand, at the part where the leather 
 goes through the eye of the iron. The left foot is placed 
 in the stirrup, while the rider faces to the rear. If his 
 legs be very short, he may have to stand close to the 
 horse's flank, so as to reach the stirrup with his left foot. 
 In this position, however, he will run the risk of being 
 cow-kicked if the horse be vicious. If he be tall, com- 
 
12 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 pared to his horse, he should place his right hand 
 well over on the off side of the cantle, so that he may 
 not disarrange the position of the saddle when mount- 
 ing. If he be very short, he may not be able to reach 
 the cantle at all, and, in that case, will be obliged to 
 steady himself by means of the flap of the saddle. He 
 should, if tall enough, spring smartly up into an erect 
 position, with his foot in the stirrup, his left hand on the 
 mane, and his right on the off side of the cantle. He 
 should swing his right leg over, knee nearly, if not quite 
 straight, while at the same moment, he should let go the 
 cantle. His left hand now quits the mane, and his right 
 foot takes the stirrup. If the horse be fidgety, the 
 rider may have to steady the off stirrup, with his right 
 hand, while the right foot is being put into the iron. It 
 looks very slovenly for the rider, when throwing his 
 right leg over, to do so with a bent knee. All appear- 
 ance of "climbing" into the saddle, in a laboured 
 manner, should be avoided. Care should be taken not 
 to touch the horse with the point of the left toe w^hen 
 mounting, nor with the right foot when taking up the 
 stirrup. One should never make a practice of putting 
 the left foot in the stirrup, before getting on, without 
 first steadying the iron with the right hand, for, if this 
 
MOUNTING. - 13 
 
 be done, the horse, if at all fidgety, will be rendered 
 unsteady by the rider poking his toe at him in this way. 
 If the animal be difficult to mount, the rider, when he 
 takes up the reins and places his left hand on the mane, 
 may have to shorten one of the reins — the off one generally 
 — more than the other, so as to prevent the horse from 
 whipping round. When the rider has his left foot in the 
 stirrup, his left hand on the mane, and his right on the 
 cantle, he should, if at all active, be able to get into the 
 saddle, or rest himself, foot in stirrup, even if the horse 
 moves forward, or begins to "dance about." He cannot, 
 however, do this, if, as some instructors teach, he holds 
 the pommel of the saddle instead of the mane, with his 
 left hand ; for the space between his two hands would, 
 then, be too short for him to balance himself properly. 
 
 Mounting without stirrups, and with, or without, a 
 saddle, may be accomplished in the manner described 
 on page 15, for mounting during movement. Mounting 
 by placing the left hand on the pommel and the right 
 on the cantle, and then supporting the weight of one's 
 body on both hands, before throwing one's right leg 
 over, may do wxU enough with a steady school horse, 
 but it is a dangerous and unworkmanlike proceeding 
 with any animal which is not a mere machine ; for if the 
 
HORSEMANSHIP, 
 
 horse moves after the would-be rider has made his spring 
 up, and before he is safely in the saddle, he will run the 
 risk of getting a fall, or of having to let go his horse ; 
 while, with the left hand on the mane, and the right 
 hand on the pommel, even if one fails to mount, the 
 horse cannot, very well, break away. 
 
 " Getting a leg tip." — A man should always get a 
 leg up, especially if he be at all heavy, with a light 
 saddle, say, one not over 4 lbs. weight, as mounting in 
 the ordinary manner would be very apt to damage it. 
 With a racing saddle, the jockey should take the reins 
 in his left hand, and place it on the mane if he can 
 reach it. If tall enough, he should place the flat of 
 his right hand on the centre of the saddle, and not on 
 the cantle, lest by bearing his weight on it he might 
 hurt the tree. He should then bend his left knee and 
 raise his foot, while the man who is going to give him 
 a leg up, should take hold of his raised leg, just above 
 the foot, with his right hand, or, if the rider be com- 
 paratively heavy, he may place his forearm underneath 
 the jockey's left leg, close to the foot, steadying himself, 
 the while, with his left hand on the horse's mane, and 
 should raise him up without giving him any jerk, which 
 might cause him to come heavily down on the saddle, or 
 
MOUNTING. 15 
 
 might cant him over to the other side. The jockey being 
 raised to the proper height, brings his right leg over the 
 saddle while steadying himself with his left hand on 
 the mane, and the flat of his right hand on the centre 
 of the saddle. He then sinks carefully down into the 
 seat and takes his stirrups. If the saddle be a 
 2 lb. one, the jockey, when getting into it, should bear 
 the weight of his body on his thighs, and should not 
 plump suddenly down in the saddle lest he might injure 
 the tree. The same method of mounting may be 
 adopted with any other kind of saddle, though the 
 precautions I have described against breaking it need 
 not be strictly observed 
 
 To motmt duriftg movement^ the rider should, as 
 directed by Colonel Greenwood, hold the mane and 
 reins in his left hand and the pommel with his right, 
 and then spring into the saddle. The faster the pace, 
 the easier it can be done. This is a very simple feat 
 to do, and is a most useful one to learn. Being able 
 to mount in this manner may, after a fall, save one 
 from being "thrown out" during a "run," or from losing 
 a steeplechase. 
 
i6 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 To Dismonnt. 
 
 Place the left hand with the reins on the mane, and 
 the right hand on the front of the right flap of the 
 saddle. Take the right foot out of the stirrup, and 
 swing the leg, with the knee straight, over the cantle, 
 place the right hand on the off side of the cantle, and 
 make a pause for an instant, while holding the body erect. 
 The right foot is, then, brought on the ground, and the 
 left foot is removed from the stirrup. The right hand 
 is placed on the front of the off flap, and on the off side 
 of the cantle, in preference to placing it on the pommel 
 and on the back of the cantle, both for safety sake, in 
 the event of the horse making any violent or unexpected 
 movement, and to avoid the risk of causing the saddle 
 to shift its position. I have taken for granted that the 
 rider is of average height. It looks very awkward for a 
 man, when dismounting, to bring his right le^, with a 
 bent knee, over the saddle, and to get off " all of a heap." 
 When dismounting, as well as when mounting, the body 
 should be kept erect, and the different movements 
 should be performed with smartness and precision, 
 although without any appearance of stiffness or ex- 
 
THE SEAT. 
 
 aggerated gesture. Every motion of the horseman 
 ought to be characterised by grace. 
 
 "To dismount in movement," Colonel Greenwood 
 says, "lay the reins on the neck, one or both knotted 
 short ; take the pommel with the left hand, the cantle 
 with the right ; pass the right leg over the neck, shift 
 the right hand to the pommel, and, as you descend, the 
 left hand to the flap. With the strength of both arms, 
 throw your feet forward in the direction in which the 
 horse is going. This may be done at a gallop." 
 
 The Seat. 
 
 Experience teaches us that, when " sitting down " at 
 the gallop or canter, or over fences, the rider should get 
 his seat under him as much as possible, which will be 
 done by keeping the body erect by the " play " of the 
 hip joints, and not by hollowing out the back, for that 
 would cause the seat to be stuck out behind, instead of 
 being carried beneath the centre of gravity of the body. 
 
 He should force his fork well down into the saddle, 
 with the hollow, and not the back of the thighs against 
 the flaps. The knees should be well forward ; the legs 
 from the knee down, should be vertical, or, if anything, 
 somewhat drawn back, while the feet should be parallel 
 
 c 
 
HORSE MA NSHIP. 
 
 to the sides of the horse, with the heels sHghtly de- 
 pressed. The legs should be kept close to the horse's 
 sides, so that a certain amount of grip may be obtained 
 by the calves of the rider's legs. Many men from being 
 told to grip with their knees, endeavour to do so, while, 
 at the same time, they stick their feet, as far as possible, 
 away from the horse's sides. The foot should be neither 
 turned away from, or brought close to, the horse's side, 
 but should be kept in the same perpendicular plane as 
 the knee. If this be not done, it will be impossible to 
 ride by balance. The feet, except when spurs are used, 
 ought to be kept quite steady, and on no account 
 be allowed to work backwards and forwards. The 
 shoulders should be kept square to. the front, and 
 " down " ; the body and head erect, and the loins braced 
 up, but without any approach to stiffness in the attitude. 
 The rider will then be in the best position in which to 
 conform to the movements of his animal, and in the 
 most difficult one from which to be dislodged. The 
 muscles of the hands, arms, and shoulders should be 
 free from all stiffness, so that the rider may give and 
 take with every movement of the horse's head and 
 neck, while the elbows should work close to the sides. 
 The act of sticking out the elbows is not alone un- 
 
LEXGTH OF STIRRUPS. 
 
 graceful, but it also causes the arms to work at a 
 mechanical disadvantage, and obliges the rider to 
 " round " his shoulders, which will naturally bring the 
 weight forward, and will interfere with the free back- 
 ward play of the body. 
 
 The length of the stirritps, with such a seat, will enable 
 the rider to clear the pommel of the saddle easily when 
 standing up in them, and, as a general rule, will cause 
 the lower part of the stirrup irons to reach a little below 
 the ankle joints, when the feet are taken out of the 
 stirrups and allowed to hang down. In short, the 
 length of the stirrups should be such as will assist the 
 horseman in assuming a perfect seat, and cannot be 
 determined by any fixed measurement. If the rider 
 finds that when on a puller, at the gallop, he can get 
 his knees well into the flaps of the saddle, draw his feet 
 back, and in this manner exert his strength to the best 
 advantage, he may rest assured that his stirrups are of 
 the right length. Men with short, round thighs will, 
 usually, require comparatively longer stUTups than those 
 of an opposite conformation, for they need an increased 
 amount of grip from the calf of the leg to aid that of 
 the thigh and knee. They will, consequently, ride with 
 a straighter leg. 
 
 C 2 
 
20 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 ''Bumping''' up and down in the saddle is often caused 
 by the rider advancing his feet, and putting too much 
 weight on the stirrups. He will be liable, when in this 
 position, to be jerked up out of his saddle, at each stride, 
 by reason of the rigid nature of the stirrup leathers. If, 
 on the contrary, he draws back his feet, and keeps his 
 legs bent, and not straight, the " play " of the knee joints 
 will tend to obviate the jerk communicated, by the 
 stirrups, to the legs. 
 
 Except for park hacking, one should ride with the 
 feet home in the stirrups, when going faster than the 
 trot, at which pace the ball of the foot may rest on the 
 iron, so that the ankle joint may ''give " to the motion 
 of the rider, when he rises in his stirrups. 
 
 A t the slow canter, it looks, and certainly feels, best 
 for the rider to lean his shoulders somewhat back ; while 
 doing so appears to me to be correct in theory, for 
 keeping the weight forward might throw more strain on 
 the leading fore leg than it could in safety bear. This 
 pace is one of three time. Let us suppose that the off 
 fore IS leading. The action will then be as follows : 
 (i) body supported by near hind ; (2) by off hind and 
 near fore ; (3) by off fore. In the gallop, which is in 
 four time, the hind legs make their stroke, almost. 
 
THE SEAT. 21 
 
 though not quite, at the same moment ; hence the 
 necessity of the weight being off the loins at that 
 instant (see page 185). When sitting down, at the 
 gallop, the body should be slightly inclined forward, 
 as in Plate I. (over-leaf), and should yield to the 
 movement of the horse, so that the seat may not 
 move up and down in the saddle. Mr. Berkley has 
 endeavoured to depict in Plate I. the action of a horse 
 as it actually is in the gallop, and not according to 
 the usual conventional rendering. 
 
 When a rider is shifted in his seat, or falls off in 
 the ordinary manner, he has a tendency to go, more 
 or less, heels over head, as many of us know from 
 practical experience. This is naturally caused by the 
 portion of the body which is free to go forward, being 
 above the centre of gravity of the body, while that 
 — the legs — from which the grip is obtained, is well 
 below it. The more, therefore, at any untoward move- 
 ment of the horse, the rider brings his shoulders back, 
 gets his seat beneath, not behind, the centre of gravity, 
 and grips with his legs, so that the line of resistance to 
 the onward motion may be as near the centre of gravity 
 of the body as possible, the better chance will he have 
 of remaining unshifted in his saddle. Hence the neces- 
 
HANDS. 
 
 sity of bringing the shoulders back by the play of the 
 hips, and not by hollowing out the small of the back ; 
 of having the thighs well sloped ; knees well forward ; 
 and, above all things, the feet back, for if that be not 
 done, and the speed of the horse be checked at any 
 moment, the feet will be forced on to the stirrups, and 
 the resulting jerk will have every chance of toppling 
 the rider over. If, on the contrary, the shock falls on 
 the legs, with the feet drawn back, the " play " of the 
 thighs, between which the saddle is forced as a wedge, 
 will obviate the disturbing influence as much as possible. 
 
 Hands. 
 
 Whether one or both hands be used, it or they should 
 be allowed to fall loosely from the wrist, with the line 
 of the knuckles at an angle of about forty-five degrees 
 with the ground (see page 2). When only one hand is 
 employed, it should work, as nearly as possible, directly 
 over the withers, so that an " even feeling " be kept on 
 both sides of the mouth. When the two hands are on 
 the reins, they should be kept eight or nine inches apart, 
 and should be held one on each side of the withers, 
 or but slightly raised. In all cases — except at a finish 
 in a race, or when a horse bucks, kicks, or gets his 
 
24 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 head too low — the hands should be kept "down," in 
 order to prevent the horse from carrying his head too 
 high, for if he does so, he will, by altering the proper 
 arrangement of the spinal column, seriously interfere 
 with the action of the hindquarters. 
 
 While keeping a good hold of the horse's head, so as 
 to make him go up to his bridle, the rider should " give 
 and take " to every movement of the animal's head and 
 neck, so that he may not be induced to think that the 
 rider is pulling against him. He should, on the con- 
 trary, be taught by delicate handling of the reins to 
 understand that the bit is not used as a means for 
 applying force to overcome force, but rather for com- 
 municating the rider's wishes to the horse. Besides that, 
 yielding to the movements of the animal with the hands, 
 arms and body, will enable the horseman's weight to be 
 carried smoothly forward without any up-and-down 
 motion, which would cause an increased amount of 
 work to be thrown on the horse, and would be unpleasant 
 to the rider. 
 
 ^^ Bumping''' up and down in the saddle, which is often 
 caused, when going at the canter or gallop (see page 20), 
 by the rider sticking out his feet and keeping his legs 
 straight, is, frequently, due to the rider maintaining 
 
LEARNING TO RIDE. 25 
 
 a rigid hold on the reins, which causes him to be 
 pulled forward, by the horse advancing his head, at 
 the moment his hind quarters make their stroke at 
 each stride ; while he naturally falls back again into 
 his saddle, when the horse bends his neck and draws 
 his hind quarters under him. 
 
 Every horseman should endeavour to acquire the 
 possession of "good hands," which term is used to 
 express the happy knack of using the reins so as to 
 restrain the horse by delicate manipulation, and not by 
 mere hauling at his mouth. Unless one has a suffi- 
 ciently strong seat to enable one to be independent of 
 the reins for remaining in the saddle, and have an 
 unruffled temper and abundance of patience, it is im- 
 possible to have ''good hands." Respecting this subject, 
 see page 81. 
 
 Riding. 
 Learning to ride. — It is not at all imperative for a 
 person to commence early in life in order to become a 
 good horseman. Some of the straightest riders I have 
 known, never mounted a horse before they were twenty- 
 two or twenty-three. I must, however, admit that even 
 they did not possess that extraordinary strength of 
 
26 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 seat which I have observed only among those who 
 began to ride when they were boys. I attribute this to 
 the fact that a high degree of proficiency in the art 
 of balancing oneself, can be acquired only when a com- 
 mencement is made in early youth. Riding is so 
 essentially an affair of nerve and balance, that it is 
 hopeless to except to become a brilliant performer in the 
 saddle, unless one learns before one knows what fear 
 is, and before one's joints have lost their pliability. 
 Practice, however, can do a great deal, even to putting a 
 man's heart in the right place, for the more familiarised 
 we are with any form of danger, the less do we regard it. 
 Boys who have the opportunity, usually commence 
 their first lessons in equitation on a donkey, or small 
 pony, and by dint of many falls, and a little advice, get 
 " shaken into their saddles." I well remember, when I 
 was a small boy of eight or nine, my father's coachman, 
 whom I regarded, at that timiC, as the highest authority 
 on riding in the world, repeatedly telling me that I should 
 never be able to ride until I had seventy-seven falls. 
 I unfortunately lost count when I got into the twenties, 
 so cannot exactly tell whether he was right or wrong, 
 although I am certain that the " spills " I had, made me 
 all the mere keen. I believe that a few falls, provided 
 
LEARXIXG TO RIDE. 27 
 
 that they do not hurt too much, do a strong, stout- 
 hearted boy a great deal of good, when he is learning 
 to ride ; but, if the beginner be a man, or delicate youth, 
 they are apt to destroy his confidence, which is the 
 essential in riding ; while a bad fall will act prejudicially 
 in all cases. This fact is well recognised among jockeys, 
 some of whom I have heard remark about Archer, when 
 alluding to his extraordinary pluck, that he retains his 
 nerve, because he has not met with a bad accident, up 
 to the present. I sincerely hope that he will never have 
 the opportunity of showing his critics how wrong they 
 are. 
 
 In order to give the grown-up beginner confidence, 
 I would strongly advise that, to commence with, he 
 should be put on a very easy horse^ have a comfortable, 
 broad-seated saddle covered with buckskin, and that 
 he should be allowed to ride, at first, with stirrups. 
 After a time, he might try the ordinary pigskin saddle, 
 and have a change of horses. I may observe that the 
 greater the variety of horses a man rides, the quicker 
 will he acquire a strong seat. He should, above all 
 things, avoid, from the very first, depending on the 
 bridle for support, for that trick, once learned, will be 
 very difificult, if not impossible, to be given up. He 
 
HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 should try to ride by balance, and not by grip, for if 
 a continued effort be demanded of any set of muscles, 
 they will, after a while, lose their wonted power, and be 
 unable to act at, perhaps, the very moment their aid is 
 required to save the rider from an accident. As soon 
 as he feels somewhat " at home " in the saddle with 
 stirrups, he should try to do without them, until he 
 is able to ride perfectly well in this manner. He 
 should, at first, take them up for only a short time, 
 but should lengthen the periods as he improves, until 
 he can ride in perfect safety and comfort, without the 
 aid of the stirrups. Having acquired the necessary 
 proficiency, there will be no object in his practising any 
 longer in this way. The respective seats and styles of 
 riding, with and without stirrups, differ so much, one 
 from the other, that a man should thoroughly accustom 
 himself only to the method (that with stirrups) he will 
 habitually use. He should never, if he can help it, 
 continue riding after he has become tired, for he will 
 then be unable to maintain a proper seat, and will be 
 apt to acquire a slovenly style. " The advantage 
 of this mode of instruction [riding without stirrups] 
 is, that it teaches, or, in fact obliges, a boy to 
 balance his body, and sit still and firm in his seat, 
 
LEARNING TO RIDE. 29 
 
 without any other aid than nature has supplied him 
 with ; and it ol^liges him to keep his legs motionless, 
 for should he hold so loosely by his knees and thighs 
 as to allow his legs to move or swing backwards and 
 forwards on his saddle skirts, they would allow him to 
 roll over the one or other side of the horse, and then the 
 'hope of the family' might be turned topsy-turvy. 
 The next advantage derived from this plan is, it finally, 
 in riding terms, gives a lad hands ; for so soon as he 
 has iearned a firm seat, and got in full confidence in 
 this respect, his hands are as free and as much at liberty 
 as if standing on the ground. For, however firm he 
 may want to hold his horse by the head, to assist, 
 support, or check him, he wants no hold by his own 
 hands as a support, or stay, to his own body " (Harry 
 Hieover). 
 
 " A firm seat is easily to be acquired without the vile 
 habit of * holding on by the bridle,' which, if once 
 contracted, it would be difficult, if not impossible, to 
 break a man of; and until that was done, he would 
 never be half a horseman " (Harry Hieover). 
 
 If a man has to ride in a light saddle, he should 
 practise in one, for however firm he may be in a 10 or 
 12 lb. saddle, he will feel more or less uncomfortable 
 
30 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 and insecure In a racing or light steeplechase one unless 
 he be accustomed to it. 
 
 If the rider has to " get-up " in ordinary trousers, he 
 may wind a flannel stable bandage about each knee to 
 save the inside of it from getting cut, and to prevent 
 the trousers from rucking up. The bandage is rolled 
 above and below the knee and is secured with the tapes, 
 while the knee cap is left free. When thus put on, it 
 braces the knee and affords the rider a firm grip on the 
 flaps of the saddle. Knee pads of a couple of thicknesses 
 of leather, made to cover the insides of the knees, each 
 one being provided with a couple of straps and buckles, 
 are very convenient for the same purpose. 
 
 A beginner, when he feels insecure in his saddle, has 
 often a strong tendency to steady himself by catching 
 hold of the pommel, or even of the mane. If he requires 
 some adventitious aid, he may be excused for putting 
 one hand back and catching hold of the cantle of the 
 saddle, for, by doing so, he will be enabled to keep his 
 body from going forward, which is naturally the cause 
 of ninety-nine falls in a hundred. If, however, he grasps 
 the pommel or the mane, the fact of his doing so will 
 cause the weight of his body to be carried forward ; he 
 will then, although probably able to preserve his balance 
 
LEARNING TO RIDE. 31 
 
 while the horse is going straight on at a uniform pace, 
 be almost certain to roll off, if the animal suddenly 
 checks his speed, turns sharply, or makes any unexpected 
 movement. His fall, in any of these cases, will be 
 accelerated by the fact of his holding on in front, but 
 would be retarded by his grasping the cantle, which is, 
 after all, but a choice between two evils, and should, if 
 possible, be avoided. 
 
 The rider who wears spurs, and finds, especially when 
 jumping, that, from time to time, he touches his horse 
 on the shoulders with them, H*ay rest assured that his 
 legs swing about, instead of remaining steady, and that 
 he is but a very indifferent performer in the pigskin. 
 
 I wish to direct the reader's particular attention to 
 the art of inding a horse tip to his bridle. I have tried 
 on page 185, to explain why a man should always keep 
 a good hold of his horse's head, and why he should 
 never leave the reins loose during rapid movement. 
 We may readily see that if a rider simply "hangs on" 
 to the reins, the work which the fore and hind quarters 
 will have to do, will be unequally distributed between 
 them, the result being that the action of the fore legs 
 will be cramped from too much weight being thrown 
 on them, while the hind legs, being comparatively freed 
 
32 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 from weight, will be carried too far to the rear. If, on 
 the contrary, the rider adopts the military style, and 
 presses, with his legs, the horse up to a bit, which is 
 too severe for the animal to bear boldly against, or 
 which he is trained, at the lightest touch of the reins, 
 to yield and bend his neck to, the hind quarters, being 
 brought well under the body, will have comparatively 
 more work to do than the fore legs. As the strength 
 of a chain is equal to only that of its weakest link, so 
 are the powers of endurance of the horse equal to only 
 those of that pair of limbs which will tire the soonest. 
 Hence, we who desire to acquit ourselves as " work- 
 men," should endeavour to ride in such a manner, that 
 there will be a comparatively equal distribution of work 
 between the hind and fore extremities. To do this, we 
 should keep our legs close to the horse's sides, so as 
 to keep him up to his bit, while we should always 
 maintain a good hold of the reins. I am here referring, 
 of course, to fast paces, and not to the walk. I have 
 attempted, in the foregoing lines, to briefly indicate 
 what the rider ought to do, not from any vain idea 
 that horsemanship can be learnt from books alone, but 
 from the firm conviction that the better the beginner 
 understands what he has to do, the more readily 
 
LEARNING TO RIDE. 33 
 
 will he learn it practically. I may divide bad riders 
 into two classes : the one hang on to the reins and 
 let the horse pull them along ; while the others sit 
 on their mount as if he wxre a kind of locomotive, and 
 use the reins merely to guide and restrain him. The 
 horseman, on the contrary, makes himself a part of the 
 animal he bestrides, by conforming to his movements, 
 and, thereby, assists in maintaining the natural equi- 
 librium of the animal's body. It is most instructive to 
 note these differences. When alluding to military riding, 
 I, of course, refer to " school " practice, as I am well 
 aware that the men of some of our smartest cavalry 
 regiments are taught to take up, when occasion requires, 
 the snaffle reins, and to ride in our English hunting style, 
 the merits of which I am here advocating. 
 
 Beyond saying that the rider should have a good 
 hold of the reins, keep his legs close to the horse's 
 sides, so as to make him go up to his bridle, maintain a 
 proper seat in the saddle, be patient and gentle with his 
 animal, conform to his movements, and turn with him as 
 he turns, so that the rider may be part and parcel of his 
 horse, and not be carried as an inert burden — I have 
 nothing more to add respecting the mere act of riding, 
 which is essentially a practical one. 
 
 D 
 
34 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 Management of the rei?is. — I have described, at the 
 beginning of this chapter, how the reins ought to be 
 held, and the position of the hands, on page 23, The 
 rider ought, at all times, to give the horse the indication 
 of his wishes in the clearest possible manner. If he 
 wants him to go to the right, he should pull the right 
 rein ; if to the left, the left rein. In military riding 
 (see page 7), the reins being held in one hand, the 
 little finger separating them, it is impossible for this 
 direct indication to be given, for do what the trooper 
 will, he can shorten the near rein only to an extent 
 equal to the thickness of his little finger, say three- 
 quarters of an Inch, which It would be absurd to suppose 
 would be sufficient to oblige the horse to turn his head 
 round to the left, while the right rein cannot be 
 shortened at all. Hence, the pressure of the reins on 
 the neck has to be used as an indication for turning. 
 Thus, If the cavalryman wants his horse to go to the 
 right, he presses the near rein on the near side of the 
 neck, and vice versa. His horse, if well trained, will 
 obey this reversed (if I may use the expression) 
 indication in an admirable manner, even in the excite- 
 ment of "action." A high-spirited, generous-going horse, 
 however, bitted and trained in the best possible manner 
 
TROTTING. 
 
 for ordinary riding, will, almost to a certainty, fail to 
 obey such a faint and indirect indication, if at all 
 excited — for instance, by the music of the hounds in the 
 hunting-field — from the simple reason that he is not 
 afraid, like the well-trained charger, to go boldly up to 
 his bit. By saying this, I trust I shall not offend any 
 of my cavalry readers, for such is not my intention. As 
 an old Field Gunner I know how admirably military 
 equitation is taught in the mounted branches of our 
 Service, so I hope I shall hurt no one's feelings, if I say 
 that a horse would be useless in the ranks, if he were 
 to go up to his bit in the manner desirable in the 
 thoroughbred hunter or chaser. 
 
 The rider should, as a rule, and as I have elsewhere 
 advised, always keep both hands on the reins, for their 
 combined aid may, at any time, be needed, especially 
 when crossing a country. 
 
 To start from the halt. — As the horse has a longer 
 rein when standing, than when walking, or going at any 
 other faster pace, the rider should draw up the reins and 
 close the legs, so as to send the horse up to his bridle. 
 He may make him go on by touching him with his 
 heels, or by speaking to him. 
 
 To trot. — To make the horse trot, the rider should 
 
 D 2 
 
36 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 lower his hands, keep a somewhat dead (forgive me the 
 word !) pull on the horse's mouth, close the legs, and may 
 indicate, by slightly rising in his stirrups, his wishes to 
 his animal. The feet may be placed in the stirrup irons 
 only as far as the ball of the foot, so as to ease, by the 
 play of the ankle joints, the up-and-down action of rising 
 in the stirrups. When the horse is not pulling, the body 
 ought to be inclined slightly forwards, as in Plate I., 
 page 22, which, however, is an illustration of the seat 
 at a half-speed gallop. The harder the horse pulls, the 
 more should the rider lean his shoulders back. I do not 
 know what word to substitute for the objectionable one 
 of " dead pull," for although the expression may jar on 
 the horseman's ear, still, not one trotter in fifty will go 
 fast, and maintain an even, level gait, if the rider keeps 
 a light give-and-take feeling on the reins. The majority 
 of fast trotters are very hard pullers : some of them 
 will slacken speed the moment the rider stops pulling 
 against them. The knack (an easy one) of rising in the 
 stirrups can be learned only by practice. One should 
 endeavour to time the rise and fall of the body accurately 
 with the movements of the horse's fore legs. The up- 
 and-down motion of the rider should be only just 
 sufficient to relieve the action of the horse, and should 
 
CANTERING. 37 
 
 be performed in an easy, graceful manner. The non- 
 military rider should always rise in his stirrups at the 
 trot, as it is fatio^uincr both to the horse and to himself, 
 as well as un-English, to bump up and down. 
 
 To canter. — The best way to make the horse strike off 
 into a canter, is for the rider to feel his mouth lightly, 
 with his hands somewhat raised, close his legs, sit down 
 in the saddle, lean a little back, and make the horse go 
 forward. Although it is immaterial, from a horseman's 
 point of view, which fore leg a horse leads with, still 
 many (absurdly, I venture to think) consider it fashion- 
 able for him to do so only with the off fore. This is 
 quite right, when the horse has to carry a delicate lady 
 who does not want to be shaken, though it ought to be a 
 matter of indifference to a " workman," unless the horse 
 is about to turn, or is cantering in a circle to the left. In 
 the riding school, we are taught to make a horse strike 
 off into a canter with the off fore leading, by having a 
 ''double feeling" on the off rein (the inward rein, sup- 
 posing him to be cantering " circle right ") and by a 
 strong pressure of the left or outward leg. He would 
 then have his head turned to the right, while his hind 
 quarters would be prevented by the pressure of the leg, 
 from swinging round to the left. My own personal 
 
38 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 experience of the " school," for some years, was that 
 the stroncrer feelincr should be on the near rein, and 
 that the horse will more readily lead with the leg whose 
 shoulder Is advanced, than with the other, the action 
 of whose shoulder must be slightly Impeded by the 
 neck being turned towards it. I find that the easiest 
 way to make a horse change his leg when cantering 
 with the near fore leading, is to close the right leg, 
 make a half turn and halt to the left, and then 
 strike off In the original direction. I am only advo- 
 cating what appears to me to be the easiest and 
 most natural plan for ordinary riding. Horses, as a 
 rule, have such a strong desire to carry out their rider's 
 wishes, that the fact of their learning to obey wrong 
 indications. Is no argument that such "aids " are right. 
 
 The canter, as I have explained on page 20, is a pace 
 of three time, while the gallop Is one of four. 
 
 To gallof. — The seat at the gallop has been described 
 on page 21. 
 
 To p7ill tip. — The horse should be pulled up gradually, 
 so that the suspensory ligaments of his fore legs may 
 not be jarred. With this object, the feet should be 
 drawn well back, and the weight of the body inclined to 
 the rear. If the feet be Inclined forward, the resistance 
 
TURNING THE HORSE. 39 
 
 to the weight of the rider being, consequently, borne by 
 the stirrup irons, an undue amount of strain will fall on 
 the fore legs. Need I, when advocating consideration to 
 the horse, direct my readers' attention to the old adages 
 which teach that one horse can wear out four sets of 
 extremities, and that he is as old as his legs ? 
 
 To tinni the Jiorse. — Catch a good hold of the horse's 
 head, and close the legs, so as to make him go up to his 
 bridle. At the moment of turning, pull the inward rein 
 (the left if he has to go to the left, and vice versa) 
 stronger than the outward, draw back the outward leg, 
 and press it hard against the horse's side, and lean 
 the body a little towards the side to which the turn 
 is being made. The pull on the inward rein should be 
 steady, and without any jerk or snatch. The object of 
 collecting the horse and pressing the outward leg to his 
 side, is to make him turn, as much as possible, on his 
 hind legs, instead of on his fore, which are much more 
 liable to be sprained than the former. Besides this, if 
 a horse be allowed to turn on his fore legs, he will be 
 very liable to cross them, and come down. On account 
 of the rider's weight being borne more by the fore, than 
 by the hind extremities, the natural balance of the 
 animal's frame is disturbed for turning by the fact of a 
 
40 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 man being on his back ; hence, the rider should en- 
 deavour to restore it, as much as he can, for the moment. 
 A horse can hardly make a. mistake from turning too 
 much on his hind legs, while nothing is easier than for 
 him to get a bad fall, if he be allowed to turn sharply 
 when going in an uncollected manner. 
 
 To rein back. — On this subject I have nothing to add 
 to the instructions contained in the drill book, which 
 direct the rider to have a ''double feeling" on both 
 reins, close the legs, and when the horse yields to the 
 pressure, and takes a pace back, ease the reins and legs. 
 Then take another pull, and so on. This practice is an 
 admirable one for teaching the horse to collect himself. 
 
 Holding a pnller. — The rider should " drop his hands 
 to his horse " when he gets his head up. He should 
 then wait till he lowers it before taking a pull. If the 
 horse will not yield, he should sit well down in the 
 saddle, stick his knees into the flaps, draw the feet back, 
 bend the head and shoulders slightly forward, catch the 
 reins rather short, take a pull, feeling his knees grip still 
 tighter, and himself jammed still firmer into the saddle, 
 the harder the horse pulls. If he finds that this does 
 not succeed, he should let the horse have his head again, 
 drop his hands, and wait till he finds that the animal 
 
HOLDING A PULLER. 41 
 
 stops bearing on the bit, and that his mouth yields some- 
 what ; he ought then to take another pull, and speak to 
 him the while. He may saw the bit, if he finds that the 
 horse has it between his teeth. Knotting the reins 
 short will give the rider a very firm hold on them. 
 
 Many bad riders, when on a puller, thrust their feet 
 forward, hump their shoulders, stick their elbows out, 
 and jam their fists against their waistcoat ; while others 
 keep their arms straight and throw their whole weight 
 on the stirrups. 
 
 If a man is riding with a double-reined bridle, he may, 
 as advised by Colonel Hardy in ' Our Horses,' knot one 
 rein short, and then draw it back on the horse's neck, 
 so that it may catch and prevent him from getting 
 his head down or extending it ; the animal will then be 
 pulling mainly against his own neck, and not against his 
 rider's hands. 
 
 As regards the bridling of a puller , I may remark that, 
 if a double bridle be used, the curb should be put low 
 down in the mouth (see page 230). If it be still found to 
 be inefficient, its reins should be dropped, and the effect 
 of the snaffle alone be tried. A Chifney bit ; running 
 reins, either the ordinary kind, or those attached like a 
 martingale (see page 242) ; or any kind of bit, and a 
 
42 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 standing martingale, may be used, due regard being paid 
 to the nature of the work the horse is called upon to do. 
 
 Goi7tg up and down hill. — If the ascent be steep, catch 
 hold of the mane with one hand, lean well forward, grip 
 the saddle tightly with the knees, avoid putting any 
 weight on the stirrups, for doing so would be very apt to 
 cause the saddle to shift its position backwards, and leave 
 the reins perfectly loose. The horse may be allowed to 
 take a zigzag course. When going down a steep hill, 
 take a good hold of the horse's head, so as to make him 
 get his hind quarters under him, grip tightly with the 
 legs, draw the feet back, lean as far back as possible, 
 and let the horse go straight down, and not obliquely. 
 If he happens to slip when proceeding In the former 
 manner, he will. In all probability, merely let himself 
 down on his hind quarters ; while if in the latter, he may 
 fall on his side and roll over. 
 
 Swimming the horse. — Take the feet out of the 
 stirrups, leave the reins slack, and hold on by the mane. 
 Or, get off the saddle, and hold on by the pommel or 
 by the mane with one hand, while with the other one try 
 to guide the horse to one side by lightly touching the 
 reins, and to the other side by splashing him with water. 
 Or, hold on to the tail. 
 
RIDING VICIOUS HORSES. 43 
 
 Riding and bridling Horses which have 
 Tricks or Vices. 
 
 The art of making horses which come under the above 
 category, conform to the wishes of their rider, who of 
 course ought to be a good horseman, is mainly depen- 
 dent on the fact of his possessing " nei-ve," "temper," 
 patience and firmness. It frequently happens that a 
 man who in his youth " could have done anything " he 
 pleased with a horse, begins to lose his wonderful power 
 the moment his nerve commences to "go." A hesita- 
 ting manner in approaching, a trembling about the 
 knees, or a nervous clutching at the reins when mounted, 
 betrays the rider's secret, often before he is conscious of 
 it himself, to the observant animal, which is only too 
 ready to change his position of servant to that of 
 master. Although our horses should never be allowed 
 to oppose their wills to ours, still we should endeavour 
 to obtain from them friendly obedience, rather than the 
 sullen submission of cowed slaves, for a horse's courage 
 and intelligence are as needful to us as his speed and 
 strength. No one who loses his temper or is timid 
 when in the saddle, deserves the name of a horseman. 
 There is such infinite variety in the dispositions of 
 
44 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 different horses that it would be useless to write, except 
 in general terms, concerning the best methods of cor- 
 recting the infirmities of temper and tricks to which they 
 are liable. 
 
 Boring. — Some horses carry their heads too low down, 
 generally from the effect of the continued use of the 
 curb or Pelham (see page 201), while others bore to one 
 side. With the former, the ordinary or gag snaffle 
 (see page 241) may be tried, or the cheekpieces of the 
 headstall may be taken up (see page 235). With the 
 latter, the ring snaffle (see page 192) may be used ; or 
 the ring of the ordinary snaffle on the side opposite to 
 which the horse bores, may be connected with the 
 throat latch by a strap, so that the mouthpiece may 
 bear on the gum (see page 234). A circle of stiff leather, 
 about 4 inches in diameter, as used by many Hansom 
 cabmen in London, may be placed on the mouthpiece 
 of the ring snaffle on the side to which the animal bores, 
 so that his head may be kept straight by the pressure 
 afforded by the broad leather surface on the side of the 
 mouth. Short tacks are sometimes fixed in the leather 
 circle, so as to hurt the horse's cheek in the event of his 
 boring to his favourite side. A noseband (see page 216) 
 may be employed. 
 
BUCK-JUMPING. 45 
 
 Buck-jumping. — This vice, which is practically un- 
 known in England, is very common among Australian 
 horses, which, I believe, have inherited it from the South 
 American mustangs that were imported into the colony 
 during its early years. I have heard of instances of 
 English, Indian, and even Arab horses " bucking," but 
 I have never met with a case of the sort in my own ex- 
 perience. The buck-jumper, with the quickness of 
 thought, throws his head down between his fore legs : 
 at the same moment he arches his back, bounds in 
 the air with all four feet close together, either forwards, 
 to one side, to the other, or, at times, even back- 
 wards, till he dislodges his rider, breaks the girths, gets 
 through his saddle, or tires himself out. I have had a 
 horse— aptly called Euclid — after throwing me, buck for 
 quite five minutes all round and even over me, in the 
 vain attempt to get rid of his saddle, while I lay pros- 
 trate on the ground longing for him to go to some 
 more suitable place in which to show off his antics. If 
 the rider be unaccustomed to buck-jumpers, he will, gene- 
 rally, from the suddenness of the downward movement 
 of the horse's head, he pulled more or less forward on 
 to his neck. The convulsive cant given by the animal's 
 loins will shift the man still more forward, while a few 
 
46 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 repetitions of the same action will complete the removal. 
 I can say from experience that when a horse bucks, 
 the rider becomes suddenly aware that there is nothing 
 in front of the pommel of the saddle except a sheer 
 precipice, while he feels himself chucked forward from 
 behind. Some buck-jumpers are perfectly quiet to 
 mount, but the moment they feel the rider's weight in 
 the saddle, they will try all they know to throw him 
 off. Others will not buck unless they are very fresh, or 
 when under some unusual excitement. An Australian 
 steeplechase mare, with which I won several races, always 
 bucked with me — but never at other times — if I hap- 
 pened, when riding her, to take a paper of any sort in 
 my hand ; the instant she heard the crackling sound it 
 made, down went her head, and, if I did not come off, I 
 generally had a very near escape of doing so. I believe 
 I am correct in saying that, as a rule, there is no vice 
 which the horse, if mastered a few times, forgets so 
 readily as buck-jumping. Many Australians ride these 
 horses to perfection, though few men who have not 
 learned during their youth to do so in the colonies, ever 
 acquire the knack. 
 
 To break a horse of bucking, the best plan, if the 
 rider be not an adept in the art, is for him to take the 
 
B UCK-JUMPING. 47 
 
 horse, after longeing him well, to some heavy, swampy, 
 or deep ground, and mount him there, so that he may 
 have as little purchase as possible for his feet. He may 
 fix the reins as directed on page 235. A gag snaffle is 
 the best general bit with which to ride a buck-jumper, 
 as he cannot buck if his head be kept up, though the 
 one fatal mistake inexperienced riders make, is to hang 
 on to the reins ; for in doing so they will almost inevi- 
 tably be pulled on to the horse's neck, from whence 
 they will have but a remote chance of getting back into 
 the saddle. A sharp pull on the gag reins, if made in 
 time, may possibly stop the horse throwing his head 
 down. In all cases the rider should sit and lean as far 
 back as he can, and let the reins slip through his hands 
 if the horse succeeds in lowering his head, for unless the 
 animal is able to bear on the reins, he cannot, as a rule, 
 buck with his wonted viciousness ; at least, he will not 
 appear to the rider to be able to do so. After he has 
 bucked a few times, the man, if he feels secure in his 
 seat, may pull him round from one side to the other, so 
 as to counteract his tricks. Or he may pull him round, 
 if he can do so in time, the monient he feels him arching 
 his back preparatory to bucking. 
 
 Colonel Hardy, in his interesting book, ' Our Horses,' 
 
48 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 suggests that the best way to tackle a known buck- 
 jumper is to " put into his mouth, in addition to your 
 riding bit, a very fine racing snaffle with its rein (which 
 should of course be a strong one) knotted short to his 
 neck ; the slack end to be held in hand. The horse 
 would not feel this to annoy him in any way unless he 
 tried getting his head down, in which case it would 
 effectually stop his little game, and he would find him- 
 self baffled: he would have his own neck to pull 
 against, instead of the rider's hands." I have men- 
 tioned this plan as a preventive measure against pulling 
 on page 41. 
 
 CJmcking up the head. — Be careful that the curb- 
 chain, if a curb bit be used, does not hurt the sharp 
 edges of the branches of the lower jaw (see page 200), 
 and put the mouthpiece low down in the mouth ; or 
 try a large smooth snaffle instead. Try a running or 
 standing martingale (see page 234). 
 
 Diffictdt to mount. — This vice is usually caused by the 
 impatience of the horse to go on. ¥/hen this is the case, 
 the rider, after getting into the saddle, may accustom 
 the horse to remain where he is, for five or six minutes 
 without advancing, and should speak soothingly to him. 
 He may then get off again and repeat the performance 
 
KICKING. 49 
 
 a few times. If the owner be an indifferent horseman 
 he should get a skilful rider to do the breaking. Hack- 
 ing a horse quietly about, and getting off and mounting 
 again at different places will generally make himi quiet 
 to mount. I may say in passing, that when a young 
 horse is being broken, it is unadvisable to make him 
 start off the moment one is in the saddle. He should, 
 on the contrary, be taught that the pressure of the 
 rider's legs and the shortening of the reins, are the 
 signals for him to go on, and not the act of mounting. 
 
 Forging. — When a horse "forges" (makes a noise at 
 the trot by striking one foot against another), he does so 
 by hitting the front part of the web of one fore shoe 
 with the toe of the shoe of its hind foot, by reason of 
 the fore feet not being " picked up " quickly enough. 
 The remedy is to make a horse go up to his bridle, and 
 get his hind legs under him, in other words to collect 
 himself more than he is accustomed to do. A curb may 
 be substituted for the snaffle. If the shoeing be faulty, 
 the feet may be lowered, and their slope (about 50° for 
 the fore feet and 55^ for the hind) corrected. The use 
 of too heavy shoes, weakness, or the awkwardness of 
 youth, may cause this unpleasant habit. 
 
 Kicking, — Keep the horse's head raised, speak to him, 
 
 E 
 
so HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 and "shake him up." If a horse kicks, see that the 
 saddle or girths do not pinch him. 
 
 Rearing. — Bend well over the horse's neck, lower the 
 hands, and pull him round to one side or to the other. 
 A bad rider, when doing this, may have to hold on to 
 the mane by one hand. He should grip tightly with 
 the knees, for if the horse rears high, while he is bearing 
 his weight on the stirrups, the leathers may come out of 
 the spring bars, which may cause him to slip down to 
 the ground over the horse's croup. Hitting the horse 
 between the ears is a barbarous practice, which is 
 apt to make the horse '' come down " and break his 
 knees, may injure his poll, and is almost certain to 
 make him " shy " of the whip for the rest of his life. 
 A lady, however, if on a bad rearer, may be well excused 
 for hitting him between the ears, for it is impossible for 
 her to bend over the horse's neck to the extent to which 
 a man can. " Harry Hieover " observes that " to sit him 
 when he does rear, lean quite forward, give him all his 
 head, and just before his feet reach the ground clap both 
 spurs to him and hit him under the flank with a jockey- 
 whip or good tough bit of ash plant. He cannot rise 
 again till his feet reach the ground ; he may plunge 
 forward, but if he does, it matters little. Serve him so 
 
RESTIVENESS. 51 
 
 whenever he rears. But as you value your life, neither 
 touch him with the whip, spur, or bit, while he is up and 
 rising ; for being made angry, he will rise higher on 
 being touched by either, than he otherwise would have 
 done, and possibly high enough to fall over, or at 
 least sideways." 
 
 The standing martingale (see page 219), either at- 
 tached to the rings of the snaffle or to a noseband (see 
 page 217), may be employed to prevent rearing. 
 
 Restiveness. — The vice of restiveness, or that of 
 obstinately refusing to go on, has received no generally 
 accepted designation, although it is a most unpleasant 
 and not very uncommon trick. I have heard it called 
 "propping," "kegging," etc. In common parlance, a 
 restive horse is one which is fidgety and unsteady ; in 
 fact, one which will not remain standing in the same 
 place, although the very opposite to this is the correct 
 meaning. As passive resistance is more difficult to 
 overcome than active opposition, the exhibition of this 
 vice will try the rider's temper and baffle his powers 
 of persuasion and coercion more than the whole list 
 of equine tricks put together, except, perhaps, the un- 
 pleasant habit some animals contract of prancin^-, 
 dancing about, and refusing to walk quietly when 
 
 E 2 
 
HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 mounted. If the rider tries to urge on a restive animal, 
 he will probably back, kick, shoulder his man up 
 against a tree, wall, or other convenient rubbing-post, 
 bite him if within reach, rear straight on end, or even, 
 as I have known one do, throw himself down and roll. 
 A friend of mine, who is one of the most brilliant cross- 
 country riders I have ever met, was once riding a horse 
 of this description. They got on all right together, until 
 they came to a small watercourse, at which the horse 
 stopped and refused to proceed. My friend, who was 
 holding the reins loosely in his right hand, shook them 
 on the animal's neck as a hint to go on. In an instant 
 the brute whipped his head round, seized his rider's 
 wrist with his teeth, and dragged him off his back. The 
 poor fellow battled with the horse for several minutes, 
 and dealt him blow after blow about the muzzle and 
 face with his left hand ; but the horse kept shaking him 
 like a terrier w^ould a rat, until at last, when he let him 
 go, my friend's wrist was a mass of pulp, and had, of 
 course, to be amputated. I am glad to add that this 
 terrible accident did not shake the iron nerves of the 
 sufferer — Mr. " Bertie " Short — and that he subsequently 
 won many steeplechases in India, though he had to use 
 a hook. He rides now with double reins, which are 
 
RESTIVENESS. 53 
 
 sewn together at intervals, so as to form loops of about 
 four or five inches long. He is thus able to shorten or 
 lengthen his hold, or can take both reins in his right, and 
 use the whip in his left hand. 
 
 Resolute riding will, as a rule, overcome this vice 
 when it is not very strongly developed, while Rarey- 
 fying will generally succeed for the time. I have always 
 found that if "shaking the horse up," and giving him a 
 cut or two of the whip and a few digs of the spurs fail, 
 that I could tire him out and disgust him with remaining 
 where he is, by pulling him round and round to one 
 side, and then to the other, sooner than by any other 
 means. Reining him back might also be tried. I have 
 read of an old gentleman, who, when his horse stopped 
 and refused to go on, took a newspaper out of his pocket, 
 calmly commenced to read it from the beginning, and 
 though the animal, after a while, wanted to proceed, he 
 kept him where he was, until he had completed the 
 perusal of his journal. The story goes on to say that 
 the horse in question never tried the trick again. I 
 happened once to cure a recent purchase of mine, for 
 the time being, of this vice, by getting off and giving 
 him a severe " hiding " with a thick stick, while a friend 
 of mine held him. I was not pleased with myself for 
 
54 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 this rather unhorsemanHke proceeding done in a moment 
 of passion, and sold him soon after. I may say, in 
 passing, that a moderately thick ash plant, or stick, is 
 much more efficacious with a restive horse than is a 
 cutting whip. I knew a case of an officer who bought 
 for a "sono;," a sound, handsome horse, which was 
 " cast " out of the Artillery for incurable restiveness. 
 The owner put him into a cart to commence with, but 
 instead of going on, he backed until he forced the trap 
 up against a wall. Having arrived there, the officer 
 got out and picketted him. When feeding-time came 
 round, he had the animal's bucket of water and corn 
 brought and placed just out of his reach, and kept him 
 in that tantalising position for about thirty hours. He 
 then undid the picketting ropes, got into the cart, and 
 drove the horse, which was glad to be off, five miles out 
 and the same distance back, and had him watered and 
 fed on his return. The animal never showed any signs 
 of restiveness again, and turned out a valuable purchase. 
 Running away. — I have nothing to add to the remarks 
 I made on pages 40 and 41, regarding the holding of a 
 puller, except to say that, however much satisfaction a 
 man, with his own spurs on a borrowed horse, may have 
 in allowing him to run away, and even in urging him on 
 
SHYING 55 
 
 when he begins to show signs of having had " enough," 
 still, no horseman, worthy of the name, would wilfully 
 incur the risk of breaking an animal down, rather than 
 exhaust every effort in trying what fine hands and 
 patient riding can effect. I believe horses have been 
 known to run away (I don't mean breaking away for a 
 few hundred yards) with some of our best riders, although 
 I have never seen an animal which was properly bitted 
 do so with a really good and strong horseman, who was, 
 at the time, in fair training. We may take for granted, 
 except in extremely exceptional cases, that when a horse 
 runs away, he is wrongly bitted, or the rider has no 
 ''hands," is weak, or is "out of condition." 
 
 Shying and unsteadiness. — A horseman ought to be 
 above minding small eccentricities of manner in his mount, 
 and should take in good part a playful shy or kick, 
 a slight rear or light-hearted bound or two, though he 
 should never tolerate direct opposition to his wishes. 
 When horses are "fresh," especially when they have just 
 come out of a warm stable into the cold, crisp morning 
 air, they will dance about, and " lark " on little or no 
 provocation, although on their return home after a hard 
 day's work they may be steady enough for the most 
 timid old gentleman. As shying, when uncombined 
 
56 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 with restiveness, arises from defective vision, high spirits, 
 or fear, the rider should not attempt to counteract it by 
 punishment, beyond a chiding word, or a slight touch of 
 the spurs, just to indicate his wishes. He may, how- 
 ever, take a good hold of the reins, and press him well 
 up to the bit with his legs. It is only reasonable, as 
 "Harry Hieover" remarks, to turn the horse's head 
 away from the object at which he shies, so that it may 
 no longer affect him. Partial cataract, and shortsighted- 
 ness, which is frequently present with that prominent 
 appearance of the eye called among horsemen "buck 
 eyes," are not uncommon causes of shying. In the vast 
 majority of cases, however, the two faults we are con- 
 sidering are the results of unskilful riding on previous 
 occasions. A generous, high-spirited horse starts at a 
 bird flying across the road, or at hearing the report of a 
 gun, as any nervous person might do, or pricks his ears 
 on seeing some unusual object. The man on his back 
 thereupon snatches at the reins, "jobs" him with the 
 spurs, hits him with the whip, and yells out, " Do you 
 think I stole you t " or some other choice expression 
 which he has the authority of his groom for considering 
 to be en regie. An animal thus treated will naturally — 
 for a horse never forgets — connect in his own mind the 
 
UNSTEADINESS. 57 
 
 idea of punishment with anything, which before might 
 have excited but his passing interest, and will become 
 more or less unmanageable from fear of his barbarous 
 rider. Or, a timid person on horseback, on seeing some 
 object or expecting to hear some noise which he may 
 think will alarm the horse, may clutch at the reins, 
 and try, in anticipation, to reassure his courage by 
 saying " Steady, lad," " Whow-ho, boy." By acting thus, 
 he will make the horse believe that something very 
 dreadful is going to happen, and will cause him to be 
 thoroughly on the qui vive against danger. When he is 
 worked up into this state by his rider, he will of course 
 be only too ready to express his fear in a form which 
 will probably be very disagreeable to the man in the 
 saddle. I recollect one morning, when I was in the 
 Bengal Staff Corps, finding that I could not ride my 
 charg;er, as there was somethino- wrong with him, and as 
 I had a very good-looking selling plater which was well 
 up to weight, I thought it would be rather fun trying 
 him at the brigade parade, to which I had to go with 
 my regiment. He did not quite like the look of the 
 sepoys at first, but calmed down very soon. The order 
 was given to fire a feii de joie, which, I may tell my 
 non-military readers, tries a horse's steadiness more than 
 
58 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 any other noise in existence. I saw the other officers 
 drawing up their reins and going through the usual 
 formula, while their chargers were prepared to display 
 their accustomed amount of emotion. As I knew that 
 my horse had never heard a feii de joie, I tried the 
 experiment of sitting still and leaving the reins slack. 
 At the word of command, the rattle of musketry came 
 down the front rank, and then up the rear rank, causing 
 other horses, which had been chargers for years, to 
 whisk round, and almost to, metaphorically, "jump out 
 of their skins," but neither the old selling plater or 
 myself took the slightest notice of the row. So 
 surprised was I at his tranquillity that I thought he was 
 deaf, until I had to go out to 'Hake up a point," for on 
 going a few yards, I spoke to him, and he "went into 
 his bridle " in a moment, thus showing that he minded 
 an indication from me infinitely more than one from 
 outside. 
 
 Stumbling. — There are two kinds of stumblers. The 
 one lifts his foot, at the walk, without throwing his 
 weight too much forward at the same time, but he does 
 not bend his knee enough, or unduly depresses his toe, 
 when putting the foot to the ground. If, at the conclu- 
 sion of the step, there be an inequality in the ground. 
 
STUMBLING. 5§ 
 
 he will, in all probability, strike it, and stumble ; but, 
 except in very rare cases, he will not fall, for the misad- 
 venture will not be enough to disturb the equilibrium of 
 his body. The rider, if he be not very nervous, may 
 well disregard this fault, unless it belongs to an animal 
 intended for show rather than for use. Many horses 
 which have low and good galloping action trip or " toe " 
 when walking. The other and dangerous kind of stum- 
 bler has generally straight shoulders, infirm fore legs, 
 or cramped action. As he leans his weight too much for- 
 ward, he is very liable to catch the ground with the toe 
 of his advancing fore leg, a fall being the probable result, 
 from the centre of gravity of the body being well beyond 
 the point of support of the fore legs. If, added to the 
 imperfect manner in which the body is balanced, the 
 animal be infirm in front, he will have but a remote 
 chance of recovering himself, in the event of a bad trip. 
 All that the rider can do to prevent such a catastrophe 
 is to ride the horse well up to his bridle, so that he may 
 get his hind legs under him. A properly adjusted curb 
 bit may be substituted for the snaffle. The rider should 
 on no account punish the horse for stumbling, for that 
 would have the effect only of making him start and 
 prance about after the mistake has occurred, but will not 
 
6o 
 
 HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 make him go more " collectedly " before it takes place. 
 Besides this, the habit of throwing up the head and 
 dancing about after a stumble is quite as disagreeable, 
 though not as dangerous, a trick as the fault itself. As 
 much may be done to prevent stumbling by a little 
 attention to shoeing, it may not be out of place, if I 
 advise the same precautions as to slope of the hoof, etc., 
 which I have detailed on page 49. The trick of " knuck- 
 ing over behind," which is a stumble with one of the 
 hind feet, can generally be cured by lowering the foot, 
 if it be too long, and reducing it under the toe, so as to 
 get the slope of the hoof at an angle of about 5 5°. Weak- 
 ness, the awkwardness common among young horses, and 
 the practice of wearing too heavy shoes, often induce 
 stumbling. 
 
( 6i ) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 Jumping — Riding Refusers. 
 
 As it is essential for safety and comfort, when crossing 
 a country, that the horse should take his fences in a 
 steady, business-like manner, the rider ought to try 
 to avoid betraying any unusual eagerness or anxiety, 
 beyond showing, by a firm pressure of the legs, and 
 a good hold of the horse's head, that he means 
 the animal to go straight, when approaching an 
 obstacle. He should eschew the vicious habit of shift- 
 ing about in his seat, and of working with the reins, or 
 *' niggling " at the horse's mouth, as we sometimes call it 
 in Ireland. I may say that the art of riding well, over a 
 country, chiefly consists in making as little as possible 
 of the jumps, and that the fact of the rider treating 
 fences and level ground with equal indifference, will 
 inspire his horse with confidence to take things in the 
 
62 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 same spirit. On a strange horse, or on one of which we 
 have any doubt, we might restrain his pace a bit, or 
 send him along with an encouraging word. But we 
 should never, unless on a peculiar horse, or in a peculiar 
 country, pull him up, when we come to a fence, in order 
 that he may take it according to any arbitrary ideas of 
 our own ; neither should we frighten him half out of his 
 life by whip, spur, or voice, to show to the spectators how 
 brave we are, or to harden our own hearts. In order 
 to be one with a horse, we should endeavour to get him 
 to take his fences in the same manner as we would do 
 ourselves, were we on foot, and were we possessed with 
 the requisite activity. As horses are very prone to take 
 liberties — perhaps because, as Whyte-Melville says, they 
 don't like jumping — the rider should show his mount 
 that his one object is to go straight. If, however, when 
 going up to a fence, the horseman sees proper cause for 
 pulling up, or turning his animal off it, he should do so 
 with the very clearest " indications " with leg and rein, 
 so that the horse may not make the mistake of thinking 
 that he is allowed to refuse. I may say, in passing, that 
 I have ridden a few horses who were passionately fond 
 of jumping, and who would have taken a lot of stop- 
 ping to have made them turn away from a fence at 
 
JUMPING. 63 
 
 which they were once put. When hunting in a cramped 
 country, it is especially necessary to ride in such a 
 manner as to show the horse that he has to go where 
 one wants, and that he is not required to jump every 
 fence which comes in sight. In steeplechasing, on the 
 contrary, the horse should have the necessity impressed 
 upon him of clearing every obstacle which he is 
 turned at, with quickness and precision. The value of 
 the hunter greatly depends on his possessing the neces- 
 sary intelligence for understanding his master's wishes. 
 Need I say how requisite it is for the rider to have 
 decision of character } Riding in a flying country is, of 
 course, more or less like chasing, in which the possession 
 of the faculties for galloping, staying, and jumping 
 makes the perfect horse. As every rider who steers his 
 own horse, has a right to study his own convenience 
 as to whether his animal should go fast or slow at his 
 fences, I have nothing to remark on this subject beyond 
 saying, that if a horse requires to be steadied at a jump, 
 the pull ought not be taken nearer, as a rule, than thirty 
 or forty yards away from it, and that the horse, for that 
 distance, ought to be allowed to make his own pace up 
 to it, always supposing that the rider has a steady 
 feeling on his horse's mouth, and that he never leaves 
 
64 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 the reins loose. As horses vary so much, it would be 
 useless for me to lay down any rules about steadying 
 them, or riding them at their fences, except in the most 
 general terms. Clever jumpers, as a rule, fence best 
 when the rider lets them have their head, and make their 
 effort without either rousing or restraining. Many horses, 
 however, are so shifty and uncertain that they need all 
 the assistance they can get. Those of us who have gone 
 in for pedestrianism, must have sometimes felt, when 
 running up to a jump, that the steps we were taking 
 would not give us the proper take off, and that it 
 was necessary for us, in order to obtain it, to lengthen 
 or shorten our stride. We may experience the same 
 feeling when riding a horse up to a fence ; while, if we 
 have had sufficient practice, and are possessed of the 
 requisite "nerve," we may find that we instinctively 
 make him extend or " collect " himself, so that he 
 may take off correctly. 
 
 When the horse is going freely at a fence, the rider 
 should sit well down in the saddle, and should have 
 both hands on the reins, so as to prevent a refusal, or to 
 "pull the horse together," if required. He should avoid 
 the trick of raising one hand, as it is not alone "bad 
 form," but it also deprives the rider of its assistance at 
 
JUMPING. 
 
 the very moment it may be most needed. He should, 
 on no account, catch the cantle of the saddle — unless, 
 perhaps, over a deep drop jump — as doing so is repre- 
 hensible on the same account, besides being dangerous 
 in the event of the horse happening to fall, as the rider 
 could not then well get clear, if the animal were to roll 
 over. He should lean back and draw his feet back (see 
 the Frontispiece). If his feet be thrust forward when 
 the horse lands on the other side, the resulting jerk of 
 the feet on the stirrup irons — as the legs will then be 
 necessarily straight — will re-act in the direction of the 
 legs, and as this will be below the centre of gravity of 
 the body, it will have a strong tendency to tilt the rider 
 over. Although a weak-seated man is, sometimes, 
 "jumped out of his saddle" by a very ''flippant" fencer, 
 bad riders, in nine falls out of ten, tumble off at the 
 moment of landing. If, when a horse lands over a fence, 
 the rider has his feet drawn back, the jerk caused by the 
 horse coming on the ground, will be borne by the rider's 
 thighs, which will "give to," and nullify, as much as 
 possible, the disturbing effect of the shock. From the 
 moment the horse goes at a fence, till he lands and 
 " gets away " from it, the rider should maintain exactly 
 the same seat, with reference to the vertical position of 
 
 F 
 
66 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 his body. I make this remark merely in passing, as I am 
 well aware that nothing but long practice will enable 
 the rider to acquire the necessary power of balance to 
 do so. However, the better he understands what he 
 ought to learn, the quicker will he profit by practical 
 instruction on horseback. As long as a man keeps his 
 feet and legs in proper position, I cannot see how he can 
 lean too far back on landing over a fence. Besides 
 obtaining safety for himself, he will, by leaning back, 
 reduce, very considerably, the jar on the horse's fore 
 legs. Leaning back, however, is of no use, unless the 
 rider draws his feet back at the same time. 
 
 When a horse goes up to a fence prepared to jump 
 in proper form, his hind quarters will be well under 
 him, and his loins will be slightly arched, ready to 
 make their effort. When he thus " collects " himself, 
 he will draw in his head and neck a little, so that 
 the position of the spinal column may assist the 
 action of the limbs. When the horse, on the contrary, 
 lands, — unless he comes down on all fours like a stag 
 over a paling, as some Irish horses do over a wall,— 
 the head and neck will be more or less fully extended. 
 Hence, a man, when going at a fence, should ride with 
 a long rein, so that he may not run the risk of interfering 
 
KEEP THE HANDS DOWN. 67 
 
 with the horse's mouth when he lands, or of being 
 pulled over on to the animal's neck. The hands, one 
 on each rein, and well separated, should be held little 
 if anything, beyond the pommel. 
 
 From nervousness, or from some insane idea of "lift- 
 ing" a horse, some riders contract the habit of jerking up 
 their hands just as the horse is making his spring. By 
 doing this, the rider tends to make his horse throw up 
 his head, and thus to check the free action of his hind 
 quarters, at the very moment their assistance is most 
 needed. He should, on the contrary, keep his hands 
 low down so that the horse may be induced to bend 
 his neck, and carry his head in the best position for 
 conforming to the action of the hind quarters. The 
 remarks I have made on page 185 concerning this subject 
 apply specially to jumping. 
 
 When the rider can take his own time over jumps, 
 the old axiom of riding a horse slow over timber, i.e. 
 any high obstacle, and fast at water, i.e. any broad 
 place, holds good (see page 133). At steeplechasing, 
 however, a great deal has to be left to the honour of the 
 horse, while the jockey does his part by sitting still, and 
 keeping a good hold of his animal's head. When I 
 write about going slow at height, I mean that it should 
 
 F 2 
 
68 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 be done at a good steady canter. I am no advocate 
 for crawling or craning. 
 
 Over bare post and rails, if the former are not higher 
 than the latter, I would advise the horseman to ride 
 at it in preference to the rail, as the animal can see it so 
 much better, and " take off," so much more accurately 
 before it, than he could do, were he to attempt to jump 
 the other ; as, owing to the horizontal position of his 
 eyes, he can judge far more readily the distance of 
 vertical objects, than of horizontal ones which have 
 daylight between them and the ground. If the post 
 and rails are " bushed up," the one can, of course, be 
 seen as well as the other. I am here supposing that 
 the obstacle cannot be chanced with impunity. If the 
 post be higher than the rail, I would adopt Captain 
 Humfrey's advice, to jump the horse a little to one 
 side of the post. 
 
 If the horse happens to come down, and the rider 
 has the good luck to maintain his seat, he should leave 
 the reins perfectly loose so as not to interfere with the 
 animal's efforts. If he be unseated, he should try to 
 roll clear, while keeping a firm hold of the reins as 
 long as he can. Practice undoubtedly enables us to 
 acquire, to some extent, the art of falling softly, though 
 
RIDING REFUSERS, 69 
 
 it is hardly a sufficiently exact science to be treated of 
 theoretically in a book. 
 
 Riding Refusers. 
 
 Horses generally refuse an obstacle because they 
 are afraid of it ; are sulky ; have got into the habit 
 from being allowed or forced to " run out " by in- 
 competent or timid riders, or because they fear hurting 
 themselves when taking off or landing. In all cases, 
 the rider should sit well dow^n in the saddle, and catch a 
 good hold of the animal's head, wdth the reins well 
 separated, and both hands on them. An encouraging 
 word and firm pressure of the legs will stimulate the 
 horse's courage, while a touch of the spurs may be advis- 
 able. If the horse refuses to one particular side, the 
 rider may hold the whip in that hand and " show " it to 
 him. Some rogues are amenable to severe discipline, 
 and will jump if they get a cut of the whip, and a sharp 
 dig or two of the spurs ; though others, on the contrary, 
 will decline the invitation, if the horseman even *' feels " 
 the reins, or brushes their sides with his unarmed heels. 
 One of the worst falls I have ever had, was when riding 
 a steeplechase on a very uncertain tempered horse, 
 whose owner, a -professional jockey, had failed, a ^qw 
 
70 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 days before, to make him fence. We had only a small 
 field opposed to us, and, as I did not move on him, we 
 agreed fairly together for a while. At the end of the 
 first half of the journey I was leading by several lengths 
 and thought the race was as good as won, until we 
 arrived at the eighth or ninth fence, which was a 4ft. 3in. 
 wall that could not be " chanced." I suppose the fact of 
 my not liking the look of the barrier made me hustle my 
 mount, for I rammed the spurs in just as he was going 
 to make his effort, as I instinctively felt that he was taking 
 off very far away from the wall, and that he would require 
 an unusually strong impulse to clear it. The moment I 
 touched him I felt him try to stop, but his evil intention 
 was formed too late, so all he could do was to breast the 
 masonry. In another instant he was stretched on his 
 back on the landing side, the saddle smashed, and I 
 crumpled up. 
 
 When a horse refuses on account of being afraid to 
 propel himself, the mischief generally lies in the hocks ; 
 but when his dislike to jumping arises from his dread of 
 painful concussion on landing, splints, fever in the feet, 
 corns, navicular disease, or injured ligament or tendon 
 will most frequently be to blame. I may remark, in 
 passing, that it is not very uncommon to find slight 
 
RIDING REFUSERS. 71 
 
 cases of laminitis or navicular disease among hunters, 
 and even among successful steeplechase horses. I 
 have known two or three cases of horses which w^ere 
 previously fine, bold fencers, becoming refusers from 
 having over-reached on their back tendons. The harder 
 the ground, the more will any form of unsoundness affect 
 the animal's jumping capabilities. I remember a sad 
 case of a most promising steeple 4iase rider being killed 
 by his horse falling on him over a small fence, simply 
 because the landing was hard, and the animal had bad 
 corns. 
 
 Although the subject of breaking does not come with- 
 in the scope of this work, still, as most of us, when we 
 ride a horse, want him again on some future day, a few 
 remarks on the best method for correcting this vice may 
 not be out of place here. We frequently see the rider 
 of a horse which happens to refuse a fence, take him 
 again and again at it w^hile vigorously plying whip and 
 spur. Each time the animal baulks, he does so with 
 stronger determination than ever not to jump the 
 obstacle. Horses have such retentive memories, and 
 such obstinate wills, when their tempers are fully roused, 
 that a lesson or two of the sort I have described often 
 ruins a horse for life. I recall an instance of a bold and 
 
RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 accomplished steeplechase rider trying a horse he was 
 to ride, in two or three days, over the course which was 
 to be " flagged out " for them. After negociating a few 
 fences cleverly, the horse, whether from jumping in 
 " cold blood," or from some reason of his own, baulked 
 at a small bank vv'ith a ditch in front of it. The rider 
 lost his temper, probably on account of the presence of 
 a few friends who had come to admire, and used whip 
 and spur when bringing him round, but he refused again 
 and would have nothing to say to the fence, although 
 his rider " cut him almost to ribbons." I need hardly 
 say that when the race came off, this horse refused at 
 the very same place and would go no further. I cannot 
 too strongly impress on my readers that a man should 
 never be drawn into a pitched battle with his mount 
 unless he is all but certain of victory. It is no matter 
 how strong and good a rider a man may be, he cannot, 
 when on his back, force him to jump a fence which the 
 animal has made up his mind to refuse. Many men 
 have an insane idea, if a horse baulks with them, that 
 they are bound to " have it out " with him and to fight 
 him to the bitter end, as if the refusal were a personal 
 challenge on the part of the horse, and that, if they do 
 not punish him severely for the supposed insult, their 
 
RIDING REFUSERS. 73 
 
 reputation for courage would suffer. The contest is such 
 a one-sided affair that none but a coward would accept it. 
 Were the horse free to kick and bite the man, as he is at 
 liberty to flog and spur his animal, there might be some 
 merit in the rider's exhibition of cruelty. The moment 
 w^e find that punishment does not succeed, we should 
 resort to some other means for accomplishing our object, 
 for the more we punish, the worse will the effect of the 
 horse's ultimate victory be on him. 
 
 However senseless it may be for a man to fight his 
 own horse for the unworthy object of gratifying re- 
 sentment and " showing off," the action is trebly 
 unjustifiable when the horse belongs to someone else, 
 especially when the rider is a hired servant. We pay 
 our jockeys to win races, our grooms to exercise and 
 school our hunters in the best possible manner, and 
 not to afford them an opportunity of displaying their 
 bravery at the expense of our four-legged property. 
 Nothing is more apt to disgust a horse with jumping 
 than the practice of " larking " him several times over 
 the same obstacle. If a horse which one is training, 
 determinedly baulks at a fence two or three times, the 
 best plan to break him of the vice, is, if one has the 
 means at hand, to get off, put a stout halter or cavasson 
 
74 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 on his head, attach to it a couple of strong leading 
 reins or ropes, and give each of them to a couple of men 
 to hold, and to pull the horse, whether he likes it or not, 
 over the fence ; while another man from behind hastens 
 his journey w^ith a whip, to crack though not to punish, 
 beyond a few light touches. Once over, the horse 
 should be mounted and ridden on. I have heard it 
 said, that the steeplechase horse Congress was cured, 
 in this manner, of refusing. We have here the principle, 
 so well exemplified by Rarey, of overcoming opposition 
 by painless though irresistible force. When the animal 
 finds that he has to " give in," and is not ill-treated, he 
 almost always submits with a good grace. 
 
 An excellent and safe way for teaching horses to 
 jump, whether they are inclined to refuse or not, is to 
 make a circular course of not less than five yards broad 
 and about 150 yards in length, and enclose it with high 
 palings, while four or five fences of different kinds — say, 
 a hurdle topped with brushwood, an Irish bank, a stone 
 wall, a water jump, and a post and rails — maybe placed 
 at intervals round it. The horse is then turned loose 
 into this kind of circus, either with or without a leader, 
 and is made to jump with a little persuasion. 
 
 Some horses which are inclined to refuse at particular 
 
A LESSON IN JUMPING. 75 
 
 kinds of fences, do not actually do so when ridden in a 
 determined manner, though they may jump short or 
 bungle in one way or the other. A steeplechase mare 
 which I afterwards bought, and which was the animal 
 whose tricks I described on page 46, had, during the 
 early part of her career, a strong objection to water. 
 The moment she saw it in front of her, she used to " dig 
 her toes into the ground," and try to stop or " run out ; " 
 while if she was ridden resolutely, she would simply 
 jump into the centre of it, and she would then scramble 
 out, as she was far too clever to "come down." To 
 cure her of this trick, her owner, a brilliant horseman 
 and fine judge of racing, constructed, on a small private 
 course of his own, a deep water jump, at the bottom of 
 which he laid down bundles of thorny bushes and 
 weighted them till they were nearly flush with the 
 surface of the water. That done, he mounted the mare 
 and took her at the artificial brook as fast as he could 
 send her along. She tried her best to stop, and then 
 jumped as usual straight into the middle of it, out of 
 which she bounded twice as quick as she had leaped 
 into it. For a full week after that, her owner and groom 
 were occupied in picking the sharp thorns out of her 
 belly and legs ; but the lesson had its effect, as she 
 
76 
 
 RIDING OVER FENCES. 
 
 never jumped short again at any brook "between the 
 flags." When the steeplechase for which she was being 
 trained came off, all, except those who were in the 
 secret, were surprised to see the whilom refuser at water 
 clear the brook on the course by a good ten feet. 
 
 
 V^ 
 
( n ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 RACE RIDING. 
 
 Standing in the Stirrups— Manner of Holding the Reins — How to 
 Handle the Reins — Starting — The different Ways of Riding a 
 Race — Judging Pace — Waiting — Making the Running — Wait- 
 ing in Front — Keeping with one's Horses — General remarks on 
 Race Riding — The Seat when Finishing — Remarks on Finish- 
 ing—On Riding " Rogues " — On Riding Pullers — Orders— On 
 the Use of Spurs during a Race — On the Use of the Whip — 
 Effect of Punishment on Horses. 
 
 If a horse were a mere machine, the jockey's business 
 would be the delightfully simple one of regulating his 
 speed, so that he might gallop over the appointed course 
 in the shortest possible space of time. Horses, however, 
 will not bear being treated in this mechanical manner : 
 they have peculiarities common to their species, as well 
 as racing points, infirmities and tempers of their own, all 
 of which should be taken advantage of, studied and 
 humoured by the rider who strives to be the first to 
 catch the judge's eye. As race riding, then, is not an 
 exact science to which cut-and-dried rules are applicable. 
 
7^ RACE RIDING. 
 
 I must content myself, in this chapter, with noting down 
 a few hints and practical remarks, which I trust the novice 
 will find useful. 
 
 Standing in tlie Stirrups. — At starting, the jockey of 
 course sits down in the saddle, but as soon as the horse 
 has got into his stride, he should " stand in the stirrups." 
 This attitude is assumed in order to enable the rider 
 to conform to the movements of the horse in the best 
 possible manner, as will be explained on page 185. The 
 body should be slightly bent forward, and should be free 
 from all stiffness. The seat should be somewhat raised 
 from the saddle, not stuck out over the cantle, without 
 any up-and-down motion. The knee should be very 
 little bent, in fact only sufficient to give the joint some 
 "play." The heels should be a trifle depressed, while 
 the feet should be kept parallel to the sides of the horse, 
 and should be placed well " home " in the stirrups. The 
 legs and feet should be kept perfectly steady. The 
 head should be held well up, the eyes looking straight 
 between the horse's ears, the shoulders down, the elbows 
 nearly straight, and the hands on each side of the 
 withers, with a good firm hold on the reins, so that the 
 horse may go w^ell up to his bridle. The fingers, wrists, 
 elbows and shoulders should be kept as loose and pliable 
 
STANDING IN THE STIRRUPS. 79 
 
 as possible. As Tom Cannon kindly pointed out to 
 me, the position should be such that the points of the 
 shoulder, knee and toe should be very nearly In the same 
 vertical line ; the whole attitude should be characterised 
 by grace and ease, like that of the celebrated jockey In 
 the accompanying drawing. The balance should be so 
 preserved by the grip of the legs, the pressure of the feet 
 on the stirrups, and the hold the rider has on the reins, 
 that the weight may be carried smoothly forward at each 
 stride, and that there may not be the slightest jolting, or 
 up-and-down movement. By riding thus, the horse's 
 muscles that are used In galloping will be enabled to act 
 to the greatest advantage. The balance should be true 
 and well maintained, so that, in the event of a stumble, 
 swerve, or any unexpected movement, the horseman 
 may be ready to throw his shoulders back, grip the 
 saddle with his knees, and " catch the horse by the 
 head " In a moment. 
 
 The harder he pulls, the tighter should the grip of the 
 knees become, and the more should the rider lean his 
 body back. If the rider, when trying to hold his 
 horse, presses on the stirrups rather than grips with the 
 knees, the stirrups and feet will move forward, while the 
 rider's seat will be carried over the cantle, an attitude 
 
8o RACE RIDING. 
 
 which will throw the weight back towards the loins, and 
 will cause the body to bump up and down, on account 
 of the arms being necessarily rigid. But as the saddle 
 cannot shift in the same manner as the stirrups are 
 liable to do, a firm grip of the legs will enable the hands, 
 arms and body to " give and take " with the movements 
 of the head and neck, as the horse moves forward at 
 each stride. The more the animal pulls, the closer 
 should the elbows be brought to the sides ; while, to 
 gain more power, the knuckles may be turned down, and 
 the palms of the hands up. When standing in the 
 stirrups, the insides of the knees are the parts of the legs 
 which are principally occupied In pressing against the 
 flaps of the saddle. 
 
 In five-furlong races, when it is a case of "jumping 
 off with the lead and coming along all the way through," 
 jockeys frequently adopt a seat which is a sort of com- 
 promise between standing in the stirrups and finishing. 
 The knees are then more bent, the seat is closer to the 
 saddle, and the hands are kept higher than in the former 
 position, while the feet and body are not drawn back 
 as much as they are in the latter. 
 
 Manner of Holding the Reins. — The reins should be 
 held crossed (as described in Chapter I.) in both hands, 
 
HANDS. 
 
 while the whip should be kept, lash down, and in the 
 right or left hand, as may be deemed most fit (see 
 p. 119). Almost all good jockeys put a knot at the 
 extreme end of their reins, the knot being made so 
 that its end points down. This is done to prevent the 
 slack of the rein from flying about. I may remark that 
 it is the present fashion to use a single rein on a 
 snaffle, even with a martingale, in preference to double 
 reins. Edwin Martin tells me that our old jockeys, 
 such as Frank Butler, Flatman, Chifney, etc., would 
 not have thought of riding a race without double reins 
 and a martingale, on a snaffle, and that the two reins 
 give one much more command over the horse than 
 the single one. Although I have always been of this 
 opinion, still I would have hardly dared to have criti- 
 cised the fashionable custom of the single rein, had not 
 Mr. Martin mentioned the subject to me. 
 
 How to Handle the Reins. — Little can be said on the 
 all-important subject of "hands," beyond stating that 
 the touch of the rider's fingers on the reins ought to be 
 as delicate, though at the same time firm, as those of a 
 pianist on the keys of his instrument. Sam Chifney says, 
 you should ride "as if you had a silken rein as fine as 
 a hair, and that you were afraid of breaking it." If the 
 
 G 
 
^2 RACE RIDING, 
 
 horse throws up his head, when trying to " break away," 
 " drop your hands," and he will then lower his head ; 
 when he does so, take a pull at him, for his head is then 
 in the proper position for the bit to act on the gums. 
 When his head is in the air, the snaffle will act only on 
 the corners of his mouth. Never keep a dead pull on the 
 reins, but " give and take," so that the horse may under- 
 stand your wishes by the feeling of his mouth. Who has 
 ever seen a horse run away with George Fordham } And 
 yet he has but a small amount of "brute force." 
 
 The jockey should keep his hands " down," so that the 
 horse may be able to carry his head and neck in the best 
 possible manner for favouring the movements of his 
 limbs and loins. It is most important that the natural 
 position of the vertebrae of the neck and back should 
 not be interfered with. We know from experience 
 that a horse cannot kick freely if his head is held up. 
 Neither can he gallop " in form " with his nose in the 
 air. The hands alone must be employed to keep the 
 head down, for if a short martingale be used, the proba- 
 bility is that the horse will not face it kindly. That 
 valuable piece of saddle-gear should be employed only 
 for giving the rider a good " hold " of the horse's head, 
 and for enabling him to keep him straight. 
 
STARTING. 83 
 
 Starting. — Whether the orders are to wait, or to make 
 the running, the jockey should employ every legitimate 
 means to "get off" as quickly as he can, for whatever 
 distance is lost at the start must be made up when the 
 horses are galloping, at which time the effort to regain 
 the lost lengths may, very possibly, be equivalent to 
 throwing away an advantage of as many pounds. 
 We should remember that the faster horses are eoino-. 
 the greater is the effort required to make up lost 
 ground. Although a horse may, when his field are 
 merely cantering, decrease a gap of five or six lengths, 
 with but a trifling expenditure of force ; still, when 
 they come to race against each other, to make up 
 such a distance in, say, half a mile, may make quite 
 a 7 lbs. difference. When walking up to the starter, 
 the jockey should sit down in the saddle with his 
 seat well under him, so that he may not be jerked 
 back on to the cantle, or pulled over the pommel of 
 the saddle, in the event of the horse suddenly springing 
 forward, or swinging his head down and stretching 
 out his neck, as impetuous ones will sometimes do ; 
 he should press his legs to the horse's sides so as to 
 keep him up to the bridle ; he should ride with suffi- 
 ciently long reins to avoid the possibility of checking 
 
 G 2 
 
RACE RIDING. 
 
 the horse when he is getting into his stride, and should 
 be "off" with the drop of the flag. When coming 
 up into line, he should keep his horse as much on 
 the move as possible, for one that is bending and 
 prancing a bit will gain lengths of another which walks 
 sluggishly up, although they may be perfectly level at 
 the moment when the starter gives the signal. Lads 
 learn the tricks of starting — such as stopping a little 
 behind and then coming into line at a canter, while the 
 others are walking, on the chance of the starter letting 
 them go — quite soon enough, without it being necessary 
 for me to allude to such practices, further than to say 
 that they don't " pay," especially with a starter who 
 will not stand any nonsense. 
 
 I might here suggest to the genuine lover of the turf, 
 that considerable information, pleasure, and even profit 
 may be obtained from closely watching the start, not 
 only for the larger and more important races, but occa- 
 sionally for the five and six furlong scurries. The 
 careful observer will learn much of the tactics of the 
 celebrated horsemen of the day, and, with his heart in 
 the sport, will not fail to be struck by the many 
 -instances in which the jockey's efforts at the post are 
 understood and assisted by his horse. 
 
NUT BUSH. 
 
 ^\ remember," observes my friend Captain Jones, "a 
 notable instance of this in the case of the celebrated 
 mare, Nutbush, the property of Captain Hawksley. 
 My readers who can look back upon something like 
 fifteen or sixteen years of turf history will not fail to 
 remember this veritable flier, which at five furlongs was 
 well-nigh invincible, and which won several good handi- 
 caps when a three-year-old, with steadying weights 
 ranging from 9 st. to 10 st.4 lb. Indeed, her sensational 
 match with Little Lady, the property of Lord Stamford, 
 who was then betting very heavily, will always keep her 
 memory green. 
 
 " She was in nearly every instance ridden by George 
 Fordham, and so thoroughly acquainted was she with 
 her business at the post, that nothing would induce her 
 to take her eyes off the starter's flag. Notwithstanding 
 frequent — shall I write — "kidding" attempts of the 
 Demon, as he was then called, to persuade her that 
 it was a start, she would never move one inch until the 
 starter himself gave the signal which she knew so well. 
 Then, she put matters beyond dispute, for she was into 
 her bridle in an instant, and was well clear of her field 
 in the first hundred yards, thus adding an incalculable 
 advantage to her naturally magnificent turn of speed. 
 
86 RACE RIDING, 
 
 " I do not think that some of the younger generation, 
 who are always scheming and contriving to get an inside 
 place and a flying start, would have done a tithe of the 
 good for the mare which her own natural sagacity and 
 love of the game did for her, and for her legion of backers, 
 many of whom profited largely by reason of their know- 
 ledge of this pecularity of the flying Nutbush." 
 
 The saying that a man will always beat a boy when it 
 comes to racing is equally true when applied to starting; 
 "At the start, boys (for I allude to them — the light 
 weights of the present day) are generally left at the post 
 or get badly off, and ride their horses to a standstill 
 before half the distance has been gone over, in the vain 
 hope of regaining their lost ground." (Mr, William Day.) 
 How often it happens that in a big handicap, after two 
 or three false starts, the light weights are " all over the 
 place," while their horses are fretful and out of hand. 
 When they return with difficulty to the starter, they are 
 unable to get them quickly " on their legs," and they 
 let them " go all abroad " with the certainty of running 
 them to a standstill before they can steady them ; while 
 one of the top weights, who on public form appears to 
 have 7 lbs. the worst of the handicap, gets off well in 
 front with his horse cool and collected, and is not caught 
 
LIGHT WEIGHTS, 87 
 
 by the lightly-penalised ones, until their bad start, or 
 misapplied efforts, have deprived them of the greater 
 part of the advantage which they appeared to have 
 had on paper. After that, when it comes to a finish, 
 what chance can a tired weak boy have against a 
 strong resolute man ? 
 
 Mr. William Day, in his valuable work, * The Race- 
 horse in Training,' cites the following instances of 
 inferior riding nullifying advantages of weight. 
 " Fraulein, running at Goodwood in the Stewards' 
 Cup, with 6 St. 4 lbs. on her, was not placed ; but 
 running afterwards for the Doncaster Cup, beat Marie 
 Stewart, and won other races at other places in the 
 hands of men, showing about 3 st. improvement. Again, 
 we see at the same meeting (Goodwood) that Valuer, 
 running with 6 st. 4 lbs. on his back, was not one of the 
 first twenty ; and yet he was always better than 
 Historian at even weights. He ran no better at New- 
 market with similar weights the same year, which was 
 some 28 lbs. worse than his real form — a fact that was 
 afterwards publicly proved by the many races he won 
 when carrying 2 st. more in much the same company." 
 
 The different Ways of Riding a Race may be 
 generally summed up as follows: i. Waiting; 2. Making 
 
RACE RIDING. 
 
 the running ; 3. Waiting in front ; 4. Keeping with one's 
 horses, and then coming away at the finish and winning 
 if one can. As it is impossible to foretell how a race will 
 be run, or what changes may occur while the horses are 
 actually running, the jockey should be ready to vary 
 his tactics according to circumstances with the utmost 
 promptness. When we consider that the time for 
 action often lasts but for two or three seconds, during 
 which to calculate the various chances and to resolve 
 what to do, we shall cease to wonder that this jockey 
 instinct, or intuitive power of grasping the situation, 
 combined with quickness and courage to act, is as rare 
 a mental faculty as genius in any other walk of life. 
 Possibly, a dozen men in England who can ride 8 st. 
 7 lbs. possess it ; probably, not as many. 
 
 Judging Pace. — A jockey should not alone have a 
 firm seat, good hands, be thoroughly well up in all the 
 tactics of race riding, and have courage and dash to carry 
 them out as opportunity may offer, but should also 
 know at what pace his own horse is going compared 
 to that of the other runners, should be able to regulate 
 the speed so that he may have the best possible chance 
 of " getting home " successfully, and should be able to 
 select the exact spot from which he ought to make 
 
WAITING. 89 
 
 his effort at the finish. Constant practice, as well as 
 natural aptitude, is necessary to enable one to acquire 
 the almost instinctive faculty for judging pace. 
 
 Waiting. — As a rule, a jockey should "wait." By 
 doing so, the horse does not incur the risk of being 
 "carried off his legs," and of being run to a standstill. 
 The rider can see how the other horses are going, and 
 having ascertained this, can remain, for the present, 
 where he is, or go in front. If he injudiciously forces 
 the pace from the start, he will probably not find 
 out the mistake he has made until after the race is 
 virtually lost. 
 
 Lord Clifden's race for the St. Leger admirably 
 illustrates the argument used in the preceding para- 
 graph. He was left 30 yards at the post, and before 
 they had gone a quarter of a mile, he was a good 150 
 yards behind the leading horse. It is hardly a reflection 
 upon living jockeys to say that no other rider breathing 
 could have exhibited the same magnificent judgment 
 of pace, the same incredible patience, and the same 
 indomitable determination, as did John Osborne. The 
 dealers in the dead could not understand what it meant 
 when they saw the big horse coming up to his field 
 at the Red House. They, did not believe their eyes 
 
90 RACE RIDING. 
 
 when they saw him in a good place on entering the 
 straight, and many of them have not yet recovered the 
 shock which they received, when his number was hoisted 
 as the gallant winner of the gamest and best-ridden 
 race which this generation has witnessed. 
 
 Horses, generally, go better and settle down in their 
 gallop sooner with a lead than without one. This is 
 especially true with two- and young three- year-olds, 
 which are apt to sprawl about, and go on with all sorts 
 of."calfish" tricks when they are in front, at least 
 during the first part of a race. Some horses, however, 
 will never run kindly except when leading. 
 
 A capital jockey, who had not the reputation of 
 always riding to win, once told me that he learned 
 to appreciate the advantages of waiting, from observ- 
 ing the manner in which horses that made the running 
 " came back " to him, when he was on " crocks " which 
 had no chance, and of which he did not make very 
 much " use." 
 
 If the orders be to wait, they should not be carried 
 out, as is sometimes done, by losing the start, or by 
 pulling the horse out of his stride in order to get him 
 behind at all hazards. The jockey, on the contrary, 
 should get away as well as possible, and should settle 
 
WAITING. 91 
 
 down as soon as he can into a steady uniform pace, a 
 trifle slower than that of those who are " making play," 
 and should then wait until they " come back " to him, 
 or until he arrives at the spot from which he sees it 
 judicious to recover the lost ground. He should, then, 
 gradually draw up to the front in time to make his effort, 
 judging from the way the horses he has most to fear 
 are going, and by the distance they are from him. He 
 should then sit down in the saddle, " catch hold " of his 
 horse's head, and trust to speed to make up lost ground 
 and to win the race. 
 
 It is a very general idea that light weights should 
 make the running, or at least have it made for them, 
 while heavy weights should wait. I am convinced, 
 however, that, if the light weight is possessed of a 
 fair turn of speed, it is sound policy for his jockey 
 to wait with him — always supposing that the race . rs 
 over a certain distance of ground, and that it is not 
 run at too slow a pace ; because, when it comes to 
 racing at the finish, the light weight, being compara- 
 tively untired, ought then to have the best possible 
 chance of successfully getting home ; for we must 
 recollect that any moderate plater, if started fresh 
 for the last few hundred yards of a two-mile race, 
 
92 RACE RIDING. 
 
 would beat the best and fastest stayer in the kingdom. 
 Weight tires a horse, and breaks his heart quite as 
 readily as pace will do. A horse, in fact, should be 
 ridden more with regard to the distance he can compass, 
 than to the weight he has to carry. 
 
 I may observe in passing, that it is a very general idea 
 that weight " tells " on a horse, in a race, only after a 
 certain distance has been run. I am inclined to think 
 that this supposition is erroneous, and that every pound 
 of extra weight, on a horse's back, diminishes the rate of 
 speed at which he can travel, even during the early 
 portion of the journey, when he is quite untired. 
 
 Making the Running.— A jockey should never make 
 his own running, except when he is on a horse that frets 
 or goes unkindly when there is anything in front of him, 
 or when he cannot get any other rider to force the pace 
 fast enough. ; 
 
 If a jockey who has received orders to make use of 
 his horse and not to wait, finds that the pace is made 
 quite strong enough, he will, if he be a good judge, wait 
 close at hand on the leader or leaders, and will be ready, 
 when they are beaten, to go to the front, by which time 
 he ought to know the exact state of affairs. If, however, 
 he be incapable of acting up to the spirit of his orders, 
 
MAKING THE RUNNING. 93 
 
 he will, probably, run his horse to a standstill, from 
 being unable to " let well alone." Anyhow, he should 
 endeavour to judge the pace, so that the horse will have 
 just enough left in him to make his effort at the finish, 
 in the event of being collared. I would never give 
 orders to make running unless my horse was a com- 
 paratively good stayer, and was rather deficient in 
 speed. One of this sort, even when carrying a heavy 
 weight, would, as far as my experience goes, be best 
 suited by the pace being made strong all through. Of 
 course I am taking for granted that the jockey's sole 
 idea is to win, and that he is not sent simply to " make 
 play " for anyone else. 
 
 " I may here mention an interesting fact, which is 
 the cause, undoubtedly, of unsatisfactory performances 
 in long-distance races. It is the waiting too long for, 
 or more strictly speaking, perhaps, it should be called, 
 the lying back too far from, the horse that is detailed to 
 do the work. As a rule, the distance between the two 
 is some eight or ten lengths. It should never exceed 
 two or three lengths ; for if you concede more, you 
 are virtually making, not a fast, but a waiting race of 
 it." {Mr. William Day) 
 
 It may be good policy, when the ground is heavy, for 
 
94 RACE RIDING. 
 
 a light weight to make the running, as weight tells far 
 more through "dirt," than when the horses can hear 
 their feet rattle. 
 
 Waiting in Front. — Many horses are so impetuous 
 that, in a slow-run race, they cannot be kept behind 
 without more being " taken out " of them than the extra 
 speed would do, were they allowed to go freely. If 
 such a one be not a particularly good stayer, his jockey 
 should wait in front with him ; in other words, he should 
 merely keep in front without forcing the running on 
 his own account, and should simply conform to the 
 pace of those immediately behind him, until the moment 
 arrives for him to make his effort. A horse should 
 never be kept back to an extent which will cause him 
 to " fight in his gallop." It is far better for him to be 
 allowed to go at a speed just beyond that at which he 
 would expend his strength in the air. I may observe 
 that the pace will steady, as well as hold, most horses. 
 
 Keeping with one's Horses. — The easiest of all 
 tactics to pursue is to keep with one's horses until the 
 finish, and then to come away if one can. 
 
 General Remarks on Race Riding.— During a race, 
 the jockey should, as a rule, stand in his stirrups until 
 he sits down to finish. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS, 95 
 
 He should avoid, as much as possible, keeping along- 
 side any of the other horses, especially when he is 
 on an impetuous animal, for galloping stride for stride 
 excites a horse, and throws him out of the even, steady 
 stroke he ought to preserve. On the contrary, he 
 should, if not wanting to force the running, keep 
 behind, or a little to one side, of some horse in front, 
 and wait till he gives way to take his place, or until the 
 time comes for ''getting through." It has often hap- 
 pened that the best horse in a race has lost it from some 
 of the other jockeys racing directly alongside him, from 
 time to time, in order to make him pull and tire himself 
 out. In acting thus, a jockey, of course, intentionally 
 sacrifices his own chance in order to secure the defeat 
 of the favourite. If a man finds that this " little game 
 is being tried on " him, he should get in the track of 
 one of the leaders, if there be any in front, so that his 
 horse, seeing another directly before him, may not pull 
 over much or break away ; or he might pull a little 
 back. 
 
 During a race, a jockey should not try to pass any 
 horse which is going as well and as strong as his own. 
 He should, on the contrary, wait until the other begins 
 to give way, when he may then draw up and take his 
 
96 RACE RIDING. 
 
 place. I cannot too forcibly impress the necessity of 
 patience. 
 
 When a jockey finds that his horse can go no faster 
 than he is galloping at the time being, he should almost 
 invariably take a pull at him, if only for half-a-dozen 
 strides, in order to give him a chance of " coming again," 
 which he could not do were he not eased off for a 
 moment. Exceptions to this would be, when the jockey 
 is close to the winning-post, has the lead, and finds he 
 can keep it ; and when his horse is one of the jady kind 
 which won't stand their mouths being touched. 
 
 If a jockey, who has waiting orders, finds that all the 
 others are acting as if they had similar instructions, he 
 should try to avoid "getting the slip" from any of them. 
 This manoeuvre is carried out, when they are going slow, 
 by a rider catching his horse by the head and sending 
 him, it may be, five or six lengths in advance of his 
 field, before the other jockeys are aware of his inten- 
 tion. These lengths, gained thus with but trifling exer- 
 tion when the pace was bad, may be worth as many 
 pounds when they begin to race. 
 
 It sometimes happens that the riders of the two best 
 horses wait too long on each other, and thus allow their 
 field a start which cannot be recovered in time. 
 
STRATEGY. 97 
 
 As a rule, in a match, if one's opponent be on a 
 " cur," one should tiy to jump off with the lead, and cut 
 out the running at once, whatever sort of a horse one 
 may be on, provided he be but " game," for nothing 
 makes a rogue shut up so soon as being collared. 
 
 Inexperienced riders are often deluded into waiting 
 when they ought to go on, by a jockey pretending to 
 flog, when in reality he is but whipping his boot. This 
 dodge is, of course, only " tried on " by the rider of the 
 speedier horse of the two, in the hope of inducing the 
 man on the stayer to slacken speed from the idea that 
 he has the race in hand, and that there is no use in 
 hurrying. I need hardly say that, if a man perceives 
 his opponent pursuing these tactics, he should keep on 
 at his own pace or increase his speed, supposing, of course, 
 that there is no other horse formidable in the race. 
 
 There are numberless instances of races won and 
 lost by what I suppose I must call strategy — but which 
 others, less charitable than I, might call by another name. 
 A case in point occurred some years ago in a race of 
 not fragrant memory in the minds of race-goers — the 
 Liverpool Cup. The rider of the leading horse — the 
 subsequent winner — suffered from the infirmity of 
 deafness. The rider of the horse immediately behind 
 
 H 
 
98 RACE RIDING. 
 
 the leader, seeing that he had nothing else to beat, 
 holloaed at the top of his voice : " Pull out of my way 
 — you are beaten ! " So great was the reputation of the 
 formidable jockey behind him, that had our deaf friend 
 heard him, there is no manner of doubt but that he 
 would have "pulled out of the way." Fortunately 
 he did not hear, and won very easily. This is the only 
 case which I can quote as of the advantage of having 
 defective hearing — at least, at racing. 
 
 I remember, however, a case that occurred abroad, 
 in which rascality was frustrated by the fact of a would- 
 be tempter having an impediment in his speech. A 
 jockey who stammered very badly, had backed the 
 horse he was riding, for a great deal of money. At 
 the distance post he found himself collared by an 
 outsider, w^hich came up full of running. Knowing his 
 man, he stuttered out to his unexpected opponent : 
 '' I — I — I w — w — will g — g — g — " ; but, in the ex- 
 citement of the moment, he could not complete his 
 sentence. Brimful of mortification at his loss, he re- 
 proached his friend for not having listened to him, and 
 said that he would have given him a hundred to have 
 pulled. " Then why the deuce didn't you say so," was 
 all the consolation he got from his brother rogue. 
 
NURSING. 99 
 
 If a jockey be behind two horses — the leading one 
 close to the inside of the course, while the other is a 
 little away from it, but in rear of the leader — he should 
 never attempt to get through on the inside, unless he 
 knows what sort of men he has to deal with, and that 
 there is a good chance of their giving way for him ; for 
 all that the second jockey will have to do, in order to shut 
 him in, will be to close up on the leader. He will then 
 be obliged to slacken speed, so as to let the second horse 
 pass him, before he can get round on the outside. If 
 the two leaders act in concert, they may slacken speed 
 at the same time as he does, and keep him hemmed in 
 until all chance of winning be passed. Many who 
 ought to have known better, have been caught in this 
 trap. As this manoeuvre is accomplished without any 
 crossing or jostling, it does not come under the head of 
 foul riding, according to racing law. 
 
 It is, generally, dangerous to try to get through on the 
 inside, for many men will refuse to give way, or to pull 
 out, while it is anything but pleasant to be shoved up 
 against a post, or against the railings. 
 
 The " Old Castilian " reminds me that the watchful 
 racegoer will see this well exemplified at many of our 
 Northern meetings, where a strong rivalry exists be- 
 
 H 2 
 
RACE RIDING. 
 
 tween the North- and South-country riders. *' Of this 
 rivalry," says he, " I have a sound practical experience, 
 as at Chester, some years ago, a jockey, who was riding 
 a horse which belonged to a great friend of mine, and 
 which we had backed for a considerable sum of money, 
 had unhappily, I believe, given offence to a Northerner. 
 Two of his confreres "nursed" our jockey so carefully 
 that they very nearly had him twice over the rails 
 between the bridge and home, the result being that 
 we were beaten a neck. Within a month my friend's 
 mare, meeting her previous conqueror at 1 6 lbs. worse 
 terms, on another course, beat him in a canter. By this 
 dangerous practice, the jockey very nearly lost his life, 
 while my friend and I lost our money." 
 
 When carrying a heavy weight, one should never allow 
 a dangerous light weight to get too far in front. 
 
 A jockey ought to pay due attention to the nature of 
 the ground over which he has to go, and to any pecu- 
 liarities possessed by his mount. It is almost unnecessary 
 to quote here the historical sheep-track on the Cam- 
 bridgeshire Hill at Newmarket. All riders in that race 
 consider it an immense advantage to obtain possession 
 of that path. Lord Poulett will long remember how his 
 well-planned coup with Nu was upset by the jady Garde- 
 
UPRIGHT PASTERNS. loi 
 
 visure, who owed her success entirely to her pilot having 
 secured this much-coveted place. If a part of the course 
 be heavy or hilly, the jockey might ease his horse a little ; 
 while he might rattle him along down-hill, or where the 
 ground was sound, always supposing that his legs and 
 feet can stand it. Horses with short, upright pasterns 
 are most unsuited to go down a hill — the running of 
 Vauban, the Two Thousand winner, in the Derby, was a 
 good example of this fact — neither do they act par- 
 ticularly well on hard ground ; while those with sloping 
 pasterns generally like to hear their feet rattle, and do 
 not get their legs jarred when going down an incline. 
 Horses with rather high action and good hocks are the 
 best to climb a hill. The possession of large broad feet is 
 most useful on a heavy course, from the mechanical ad- 
 vantage they have over small feet. A compact, quick- 
 striding horse, like what Freeman was, is well adapted 
 for a cramped course, like the Rodee at Chester, while 
 a big long-striding animal — Lord Clifden, for instance — 
 requires a straight level course, like that at Doncaster, 
 on which to display his powers. The length and height 
 of a horse does not matter so much, provided he has 
 quick hind action and gets his hocks well under him. 
 Knight of the Garter, who was one of this sort, though 
 
I02 RACE RIDING. 
 
 an immensely long horse, squandered his field in the 
 Chester Cup for 1869, with Qst. i lb. up. Also, Asteroid, 
 who was built on a large scale, won in 1863, carrying 
 9 St. 4 lbs., beating fifteen others. At Liverpool, which 
 is a very roundabout course, the Cup was won in 1872 
 and 1873 by those big horses, Vanderdecken, 3 yrs., and 
 Sterling, 5 yrs. The former, carrying 7 st. 8 lbs., beat a 
 field of twenty ; while the latter, with 9 st. 4 lbs. up, 
 defeated fourteen others. Unsound horses, as a rule, act 
 best on a soft course, especially those with any tendency 
 to laminitis, or navicular disease. Old horses, which are 
 somewhat stiff on their legs, should have a steady pre- 
 liminary canter to warm them up before starting. Certain 
 horses appear to have a special liking for certain courses 
 and varieties of ground. Game, honest horses are often 
 several pounds better, when facing a hill, than one with 
 a suspicion of " softness," though they might be as nearly 
 equal as possible on the flat. 
 
 The Seat when Finishing.— When a jockey wants to 
 finish, he should sit down in the centre of his saddle 
 with his seat as much under him as possible. He 
 should catch a good hold of the horse's head so as to 
 collect him at each stride ; he should lean slightly back ; 
 should grip the flaps of the saddle tightly with his 
 
SEAT WHEN FINISHING. 103 
 
 knees, and draw his feet well back, so that the weight, 
 at each stroke of the horse's hind legs, may not 
 come with a jerk on the stirrups, which would cause 
 it, by reaction, to be thrown to the rear, and would 
 thus increase the work the horse has to do. The hands 
 and arms should yield to the extension of the horse's 
 neck at each stride, without, however, slackening the 
 reins in the slightest. The rider should avoid the un- 
 sightly trick of working his hands in a circle round and 
 round ; they ought, on the contrary, to give and take 
 in the direction the horse is going, and ought to have 
 no side motion. The hands should be brought within 
 four or five inches of each other, and should be kept 
 low, say — not more than six inches above the withers. 
 
 The rider having assumed this position, should con- 
 form to the movements of the horse, so that the weight 
 may impede him as little as possible (see p. 185). The 
 seat and thighs of the rider should appear as if they 
 were glued to the saddle, while there ought not to be 
 the slightest approach to any bumping up and down. 
 Whether the jockey can, or cannot, relieve the horse 
 of weight, by giving a forward impulse to his body 
 when the hind legs are on the ground, is a question 
 which does not concern us here, nor is it one of practical 
 
I04 RACE RIDING. 
 
 application. In this connection I may quote the utter- 
 ance of an experienced Newmarket trainer, who, when 
 the owner asked him to whom he should give a mount 
 in a race for a good stake : " Oh, sir, put up Archer. 
 He packs himself up so, that I believe he rides 7 lbs 
 lighter than his real weight." The owner did, and 
 Archer won. It is sufficient for us to know that when 
 a man sits down and finishes in proper style, the horse 
 is enabled to travel faster than he can do when any 
 other kind of seat is adopted. We know that " dead 
 weight," over which the muscles of the jockey cannot 
 exercise any influence, is particularly disadvantageous 
 at a finish, however well placed it may be. We are 
 also aware that if a man be tired or weak, however 
 *' still " he may sit, his horse will not be able to gallop 
 by any means as fast as he would do, were the rider 
 fresh and strong. These facts seem to indicate that 
 the jockey can afford a certain amount of mechanical 
 assistance to his horse, which cannot be derived from 
 the reins, for, although they may serve to "collect" 
 him, or to retard his speed, they are powerless to give 
 him any onward impulse. As the legs of the rider are 
 the only other parts which connect him to the horse, 
 the " lift " — if there be one — must proceed from them, 
 
FINISHING. 105 
 
 and may be the result of the weight being, more or 
 less, taken off the horse's back at each instant, as his 
 hind feet make their stroke. Colonel Greenwood, in 
 his excellent book, ' Hints on Horsemanship,' considers 
 that such mechanical assistance can be given. We 
 know that the rider may aid the horse by adjusting 
 his weight, during each stride, so that it may impede 
 the animal's movements as little as possible (see p. 186), 
 but whether he can give him any further assistance, or 
 not, is a question which I am unable to decide. 
 
 A man requires a great deal of practice to finish well, 
 while, if he does it badly, he is certain to impede the 
 horse's movements by rolling about in the saddle ; 
 hence, if he be not expert in the art, he should not 
 attempt to practise it, but should endeavour to sit as 
 still as possible, catch a good hold of his horse's head, 
 and should assume the position which he finds to be 
 the easiest one for the horse and for himself. As the 
 action of finishing is very fatiguing to the jockey, he 
 does not, as a rule, " sit down " before he comes to the 
 distance post. 
 
 On Finishing. — At a finish it is generally best to be 
 on the side furthest away from the judge. When two 
 horses are coming up the straight, on perfectly even 
 
io6 RACE RIDING. 
 
 terms, the farthest-off one will, of necessity, appear to 
 the spectator to be ahead of the other. It is, therefore, 
 very difficult for the judge, in a close finish, to efface 
 entirely from his mind an impression of, say ten or 
 twelve seconds' duration. It has happened that when 
 the actual winner has finished close under the judge's 
 box, that he was not even placed by that official. If 
 the jockey cannot use his whip in his left hand, he 
 might keep on the whip hand of his most dangerous 
 opponent, who might, if he was on his near side, close 
 in, either intentionally or by his horse swerving, and 
 might thus prevent him from using the whip with the 
 right hand. If the horse has a tendency to swerve off, 
 under punishment, to the outside of a course, it may be 
 just as well to have something on the near side, so as 
 to keep one's own horse straight. 
 
 Before sitting down to finish, it is generally advisable, 
 especially if the race has been run at a strong pace, to 
 take a pull at one's horse for a few strides, so as to 
 enable him to catch his wind, and to collect himself 
 before he makes his effort. 
 
 Care should be taken not to suddenly begin to finish 
 on a long-striding horse ; he should, on the contrary, be 
 prepared for his effort, so that he may not be thrown out 
 
FIXISHING. 107 
 
 of his stride. A quick, short-striding animal will dash 
 into full speed in an instant. 
 
 It is a dangerous and often a fatal mistake for a 
 jockey to ease his horse, or to cease riding him, when 
 leading and close to the winning-post, for by doing so 
 he may make him "stop," and may then be unable to 
 get him into his stride again, in time to " stall off a 
 rush " from one of the others. 
 
 Even the great George Fordham was once caught 
 napping in this way, when riding for his then constant 
 employer, Mr. Ten Broeck. Neither of the two will 
 ever forget how Sam Rogers swooped down on Ford- 
 ham, who was riding Amy. She had, to all intents and 
 purposes, won her race, when the Demon took a pull, 
 thinking that the other one was beaten, and then he 
 could not set her going again in time. 
 
 At a finish, if one finds that the leader has the race 
 easy, one might get directly behind him, on the chance 
 of his slackening speed to look round, or to look at his 
 boots, or at the stand, and then one may, with a rush on 
 the side away from which the other's head is turned, 
 manage to beat him on the post, before he can set his 
 horse going again. 
 
 Many an important event has been lost from over- 
 
io8 RACE RIDING. 
 
 confidence of the rider of the leading horse, who, when 
 winning easily, has tried to make a race of it for "the 
 gallery," or has been cajoled into slackening his speed 
 by one of the other jockeys, and has then been unable 
 to make an effort in time when required to do so. 
 
 As a last piece of advice, I would recommend the 
 tyro never to be too anxious " to get home," and never 
 " to draw it too fine." 
 
 On Riding Rogues. — As the generality of ** rogues " 
 will run kindly enough, until they are pressed or hustled, 
 a jockey when riding one of this sort should, as a rule, 
 make the running, or at least keep with the leaders, 
 and, if he finds that he is winning easily at the finish, he 
 should, on no account, take a pull, or allow any of the 
 others, if he can help it, to close up on him, for many 
 rogues will either not try a yard, or win by " the length 
 of a street." The jockey should sit still, ride as quietly 
 as possible, and should do all he can to persuade the 
 jady one that he is running away. It often happens 
 that the more the rider pulls, the faster will the 
 "rogue" go. The jockey should allow him to make 
 his own running and effort while interfering with him 
 as little as possible. Horses learn so quickly what a 
 race means, that I believe better results than we often 
 
ROGUES. 109 
 
 get would be obtained, were we to trust more to their 
 judgment than we do, as to how they should be ridden 
 in their races. 
 
 Rogues run very much better in a match or in a very 
 small field than they do in a crowd. 
 
 " Of this indisputable truth," remarks Captain Jones, 
 " I have had ample proof. It has always been a matter 
 of surprise to me, that trainers do not teach young horses 
 their lessons in scenes and under circumstances resem- 
 bling, as much as possible, those under which they 
 have subsequently to fight their battles, and, oftentimes, 
 to carry their masters' fortunes. I am led to this reflec- 
 tion by an old reminiscence of a horse of my own, which 
 I had bought as a two-year-old. He was as well bred 
 as Eclipse, and of real racing shape and make. He had 
 run but once as a two-year-old. I bought him in 
 October for a good round sum, by the advice of a friend 
 of ripe and rare judgment. He wintered well. Wanting 
 to try him alongside another horse early in the year, 
 I put four of them together, and galloped them a mile 
 in their clothing, far away from sight or sound. To my 
 delighted amazement, the young one seemed to hold the 
 old horse (one of some pretensions) the whole distance, 
 and was only beaten half a length. If this form were 
 
no RACE RIDING. 
 
 correct, there was nothing beyond my reach for that year, 
 not even the Derby, as the horses were carrying boys of 
 the same weight, while my old horses, which had won 
 good races before this (and, I may add, since), would 
 have made small work of three-year-olds at even weights. 
 I believed I had a treasure, but to make assurance 
 doubly sure, I determined to try them regularly, with 
 jockeys in boots and breeches, and as close an imitation 
 of the real thing as I could devise. Alas for the result ! 
 The young horse was beaten two hundred yards ! He 
 could not be got to gallop in public, although he was 
 a perfect kill-devil at exercise. 
 
 *' I gave him another chance in a good class race with 
 an 8 St. 10 lbs. man on his back. The brute led his field to 
 the distance, and looked like coming in alone. Directly 
 the shouting commenced, and he could see the crowd, 
 he shut up like a clasp-knife, and was shortly after 
 relegated to the cab-rank, in which I hope he will long 
 live to expiate the sin of the unfulfilled promise of his 
 youth." 
 
 If a jady horse manages to run a dead heat in a race 
 for which there are several starters, the chances are in 
 favour of his winning the deciding heat, supposing that 
 he has not had much punishment. I was much im- 
 
THE GHOST. 
 
 pressed with this fact on seeing the running of The 
 Ghost, in The Clewer Welter, at the Windsor July 
 Meeting for 1877. This arrant thief, who was a non- 
 stayer, ran a dead heat, Custance up, in the race in 
 question, with Mr. Gretton's Dovedale, steered by 
 Cannon. I knew the mare could stay a bit, so backed 
 her in the deciding heat, and lost my money, as The 
 Ghost won cleverly. Although the second journey was 
 all against him, he ran quite a different horse to what 
 he did the first time of asking. 
 
 One may try the effect of giving a rogue, a quarter 
 of an hour before his race, half a bottle (not more) of 
 port or sherry in order to make him run kindly. Though 
 horses can take, comparatively, enormous quantities of 
 certain drugs with impunity, still they cannot drink much 
 more than twice the amount that an ordinary man can, 
 without becoming intoxicated. 
 
 On Riding Pullers. — Although a curb is objectionable 
 from its tendency to make a horse go " round " and 
 high, still, if the jockey cannot hold the horse in any 
 kind of snaffle, it is better for him to use a curb, taking 
 care to put it low down in his mouth, than to take the 
 chance of his running himself to a standstill, or to be 
 obliged to saw his mouth or pull his head about, so as 
 
112 RACE RIDING. 
 
 to keep him in his place. Speaking to and humouring 
 a horse a little will often make him stop pulling. The 
 remarks I have made on page 40 about dropping the 
 hands when a horse gets his head up, and taking a pull 
 the moment he lowers it, may be referred to here. I 
 have remarked on page 192 that thin snaffles have a ten- 
 dency to make horses pull. If possible, a large smooth 
 snaffle should be used. If that does not prove sufficient 
 to hold a horse, a chain snaffle may be tried. We may 
 take for granted, especially as the pace will hold most 
 of them, that it is the fault of the jockey if a horse runs 
 away in a race. Allowance should of course be made 
 for small weak lads. 
 
 As the majority of hard, determined pullers are done 
 running, when they stop pulling, being then left without 
 the power of making an effort, a jockey ought to be par- 
 ticularly careful to " keep a bit in hand " with a horse of 
 this sort. 
 
 That hard pullers often fail to stay is frequently the 
 fault of their riders. I quite agree with Hiram Wood- 
 ruff, the celebrated American trainer, when he remarks 
 that, " It is often said that a horse cannot pull hard and 
 last ; and this is contrary to the facts that I am about 
 to mention. Trustee lasted ; and he was a hard puller. 
 
ORDERS. 113 
 
 Captain McGowan lasted ; and he was the hardest- 
 pulling horse in America, I suppose. Dexter pulls a 
 pound or two, I can assure you ; and he has shown his 
 capacity to go on. The truth is, that the pulling horses 
 last well enough, but the riders do not last so long. It 
 is just so with the runners." 
 
 Orders. — As a rule, never give orders, if your jockey 
 is a fairly good one, though the trainer might briefly 
 tell him the horse's good and bad points from a racing 
 point of view. It is always injudicious to lay down 
 precise directions, such as to keep a certain number 
 of lengths behind the leading horse, who may be sent 
 from the start to cut out the running for another, at 
 a pace which might cause him to collapse long before 
 the distance post is reached ; or to wait on some par- 
 ticular horse — a proceeding which has been the cause of 
 many a mistake, for the dreaded one may turn out a 
 rank duffer which is unable to go fast, so that the jockey, 
 by waiting on him, may have in the meantime allowed 
 the others to get so far ahead that he will not be able to 
 catch them before it is too late ; or he may run himself 
 to a standstill in endeavouring to keep the lead ail 
 through. If a jockey be capable of carrying out minute 
 instructions, he will certainly be clever enough to accom- 
 
 I 
 
114 RACE RIDING. 
 
 plish the far easier and more profitable task of acting 
 up to the spirit of broad general directions. As a rule, it 
 is much better to ride a race so as to suit the capabilities 
 of one's own horse (with which one ought to be fully 
 acquainted), than to devote one's entire attention to the 
 weak points of the supposed dangerous horse or horses, 
 which must naturally be problematical ; for this reason, 
 I would never hamper a jockey's judgment by laying 
 out the programme cut and dry, but v/ould simply tell 
 him my horse's peculiarities, and what kind of running 
 would most likely bring him home. For instance, wath a 
 fast horse in a one-and-a-half-mile race, instead of telling 
 an inexperienced rider to wait so many lengths behind, 
 I might say, " Get off well and keep a good bit in hand 
 for half the journey, gradually get up within a couple of 
 lengths of the horses which are going strongest in front 
 of you at the distance post, take a pull for a few strides 
 if you find your horse at all distressed, and make your 
 effort the moment you think you can get home." If the 
 animal then gets beaten, the probability is that the winner 
 was the better horse of the two at the weights and 
 distance run — a fact which owners of defeated horses 
 often overlook. 
 
 Jf I remember rightly, it was Mr. F. Swindells, than 
 
SPUJ^S. 
 
 115 
 
 whom no one, in any age, has ever pursued such a 
 successful turf career, who replied to a jockey that 
 asked him how he was to ride his horse : " Nay, lad, 
 that is thy business to know how the horse should be 
 ridden ; I cannot teach thee." 
 
 On the Use of Spurs during a Race.— Spurs ought 
 to be put on for a race, unless the horse runs unkindly 
 when they are used, or the jockey is such a bad rider 
 that he cannot spur properly at a finish, or cannot help 
 touching his horse with them. After taking one's 
 spurs off to ride a rogue, it may be just as well, in 
 the preliminary canter, to touch him a couple of 
 times with one's heels in order to show him that he 
 need not fear punishment from them. Some horses, 
 on the contrary, will not extend themselves unless the 
 rider has spurs on. 
 
 The proper zvay to tise the spurs is to turn out the toes 
 and strike as close behind the girth as possible, without 
 raising the heels in the slighest when doing so. The 
 feet should on no account be swung back. Nothing is 
 more unworkmanlike than scoring the horse's sides 
 with the spurs by raising or drawing back the heels. 
 Bad riders not unfrequently spur a horse about the 
 shoulders ; while men, who never ought to have been 
 
 I 2 
 
ii6 RACE RIDING. 
 
 given a mount, have been known to spur a horse on 
 his stifles. When inferior horsemen use spurs, they 
 ought to have them as short as possible. 
 
 As a rule, a horse should not be touched with 
 the spurs until the jockey sits down to finish, when 
 three or four digs will be quite enough to make any 
 ordinary animal exert himself to the utmost. An in- 
 experienced rider ought to endeavour to make his horse 
 go fast at a finish by catching a good hold of his 
 head and ''riding him out," and not by spurring or 
 flogging him. 
 
 " Too much importance," says Captain Jones, " cannot 
 be given to this subject. The indiscriminate use of 
 spurs by boys, who stick a pair of pitchforks as 
 large as themselves upon their heels, has for years 
 made the judicious grieve. I have had in my own 
 possession two racehorses who would not go if their 
 riders wore spurs, even if they did not use them. If 
 the animals saw these instruments of torture, they at 
 once declined the contest, and went to the starting post 
 in a series of buck-jumps, returning to the winning post 
 by the same mode of locomotion, never once settling 
 down to gallop. I should allow no rider, except the few 
 shining lights at the head of their profession, to even 
 
TOMATO. 117 
 
 /ear them. The smaller artists puff and fume a little 
 at being deprived of their weapons, but a little firmness 
 on the part of an owner who will not allow his horse 
 to be sacrificed or ill-treated, will soon bring them to 
 their bearings." 
 
 On one occasion, Hayhoe, who was training the late 
 Baron Rothschild's two-year-old filly, Tomato, told 
 Edwin Martin to ride her a gallop with spurs, and to 
 touch her with them, just to show her what they were like. 
 The jockey did so, and the filly finished her work in a 
 satisfactory manner. A few days after, Martin got on 
 Tomato with spurs, to ride her a trial, but she refused 
 to move a step, and began to shiver and buck-jump as 
 if something was wrong. Martin dismounted, and they 
 took off the saddle, thinking it might be pinching her, 
 or that a thorn or thistle might have got into the pannel. 
 As the gear was found to be all right, Martin re- 
 mounted, but with the same result. At last, at Hayhoe's 
 suggestion, the spurs were taken off. The moment that 
 was done, the filly walked off as quiet as a lamb, there- 
 by giving' them to know, as plain as words could have 
 told, what her ideas on spurring were. During her 
 future career she never had spurs used with her, and 
 always ran kind and game. 
 
ii8 RACE RIDING. 
 
 On the Use of the Whip.— When hands and spurs 
 fail to make a horse go fast enough to win" his race, 
 we may use the whip, if it be a very " near thing," to 
 squeeze the last ounce out of the horse. Horses, when 
 ridden by a workman, will undoubtedly, under the whip, 
 make a last effort which cannot be obtained by any 
 other means of punishment. This effort, speaking in 
 general terms, may make a difference of a length, 
 perhaps even of two lengths, in some rare cases. Recol- 
 lecting the risk we run of spoiling a horse's temper for 
 the rest of his life by flogging him, we may take it for 
 granted that we should not use the whip, if we have to 
 trust to it to make up more than two lengths to secure 
 the judge's verdict. A horse, as Mr. Edwin Martin, the 
 well-known Newmarket trainer, once remarked to me, 
 cannot, at the end of a race, go farther than a hundred 
 yards at his very utmost speed without beginning to 
 shorten his stride and go slower ; hence we may con- 
 clude that our last resource, the whip, should not be used 
 until we are within a hundred yards of the winning post. 
 Practically speaking, the whip should be very rarely 
 indeed " picked up " before the last thirty or forty 
 yards, nor should more than two or three cuts be given. 
 When a jockey begins to flog, as many of them do, two 
 
THE WHIP. 119 
 
 or three hundred yards from home, we need not be sur- 
 prised at seemg his horse, after answering the call for ten 
 or a dozen strides, go slower and slower as he nears the 
 judge's box. The horse is then probably condemned as 
 a rogue, while the jockey is praised as a resolute finisher. 
 Some of our best jockeys, now and then, flourish the 
 whip at a finish without hitting the horse, as a " bit of 
 kid," or to make him travel faster than he is doing 
 without punishing him. 
 
 Mr. Edwin Martin tells me that he teaches his boys to 
 carry their sticks in the left hand, so that they may use 
 the whip equally well with both hands. Unless a lad is 
 left-handed, he will have no difficulty with the right. If 
 a horse be inclined to jump about, it will be very 
 awkward for the jockey if he can use the whip — not to 
 punish, but simply to steady him — with only one hand. 
 Martin very justly advises, that, on right-handed courses, 
 the whip, as a rule, should be carried in the left hand. 
 A horse, when he does so, usually hangs or bears off to 
 the left. It is well, he observes, to hold the whip in the 
 outside hand, i.e. in the one farthest away from one's 
 opponents, so that the horse's attention may be 
 balanced, if I may use the term. If both the whip and 
 " the field " are on one side, the horse will not go as 
 
RACE RIDING. 
 
 straight and level as he would do, were they on different 
 sides of him. 
 
 Bad as the spurs are, with respect to ruining a horse's 
 temper and breaking his heart, their evil effects are as 
 nothing compared with those of the whip. I may safely 
 say that a large percentage of horses which have been 
 once severely punished with the whip by a powerful rider, 
 are thereby rendered useless, as racehorses, for the re- 
 mainder of their lives, whenever they have to contend 
 in a close finish. Cecil, in his excellent little book, 
 * Stable Practice,' remarks about the whip, that " not much 
 benefit often results from it, except with game and 
 indolent animals ; and in using both that and the spurs, 
 unless the horse is found to respond to the call, good 
 feeling and prudence forbid their use. Inflicting pain on 
 an animal when he is doing his best, is not only wanton 
 cruelty, but appears something like punishing him 
 because he is going as fast as his powers will enable 
 him. Horses have retentive memories, and there is no 
 doubt many will cease to struggle at the moment they 
 are called upon to do so, from reminiscences of former 
 punishment." 
 
 A jockey should strike a horse with the whip no- 
 where else except just behind the girth, unless when 
 
THE WHIP, 121 
 
 preventing him from swerving, etc. When he is hit in 
 this manner, the side away from the whip hand will, 
 if anything, be hurt more than the other, so that the 
 horse will not be so liable to swerve as he would be, 
 were he hit in any other way. Besides, hitting him thus 
 on the centre of the body will not " double him up," nor 
 wdll make him change his leg, as striking him on the flank 
 or shoulder might do. A jockey who punishes a horse 
 about the sheath, or rips his sides with the spurs, is a 
 disgrace to his profession. 
 
 During a race, the whip should be held lash down with 
 the hand that holds it on the reins, for if it be kept up, 
 the horse will very probably watch it, expecting a cut 
 every moment, and his attention will thereby be dis- 
 tracted from his work. When the moment comes to 
 use the whip, it should be quickly " picked up," in the 
 manner described on the next and succeeding pages, 
 while the reins are grasped firmly in the other hand ; the 
 rider should sit well down in his saddle, keep his shoulders 
 square, lean back, draw his feet back, and keep his 
 body as steady as possible, so that it may not get any 
 sway from the arm, which might interfere with the 
 motion of the horse, and thus jeopardize his chance of 
 winning. 
 
122 
 
 RACE RIDING. 
 
 If the whip is to be used by the right hand, the left 
 hand — of course supposing that both hands are on the 
 reins, see Fig. 3 — should let go the slack of the off 
 rein, should then slide forward on the near rein, and 
 grasp the off rein in the full of the hand, as shown in 
 Fig. 9. The left hand should go forward in a some- 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 what circular manner, and not directly to the front, 
 so that a perfectly even feeling on both reins may be 
 preserved the whole time. It is necessary to shorten 
 the reins in this way, for, when catching hold of a 
 horse's head with one hand, the reins should naturally be 
 shorter than when they are held in both hands. Both 
 reins being now grasped in the left hand, the right hand, 
 
PICKING UP THE WHIP. 
 
 12- 
 
 which holds the whip, quits them, and swings the whip 
 slightly forward, so as to bring it between the first and 
 second fingers : see Fig. i o. The whip is now quickly 
 swung round to the rear and brought up into the position 
 
 Fig;. lo. 
 
 '^K... 
 
 shown in Fig. ii. The first finger slips round the 
 handle of the whip, which is then caught firmly in the 
 hand, and the cuts, which should rarely exceed two or 
 three, are given straight down behind the leg, without 
 
124 
 
 RACE RIDING. 
 
 any backward swing. The cuts should be timed so 
 that the horse may be struck, just as his hind legs make 
 their stroke. ' 
 
 Though explaining how to change the reins and pick 
 
 Fig. II. 
 
 up the whip has occupied some space, these actions can 
 be performed, after a little practice, with the utmost 
 rapidity. The moment for using the whip is such a 
 critical one, that it is essential a well-practised method 
 
CHANGING THE WHIP. 125 
 
 be adopted, so that the rider may run no chance of 
 making a fatal muddle with the reins. Such mistakes, 
 which would appear to be hardly excusable in an 
 amateur, are not unfrequently committed by profes- 
 sionals who fancy themselves not a little. How often 
 do we see jockeys " let go the reins " the moment they 
 use the whip. It always strikes me, that the reason 
 they commit this unpardonable error, is that they do 
 
 FiCT. 12. 
 
 not slide the bridle hand forward to shorten the reins 
 before the whip hand quits them, as ought to be done. 
 When there is little time to act and none to think, the 
 mere knowledge of the proper method of doing a thing 
 cannot be utilised. An action, however, which has 
 been sufficiently often repeated to become automatic 
 (forgive me the word), will be instinctively performed 
 
r26 
 
 RACE RIDING. 
 
 without the necessity of reflection, on our senses, re- 
 ceiving the required signal. 
 
 Wkejt the whip has to be changed from the right 
 to the left hand, the former should grasp the reins 
 in front of the latter, in the manner before described, 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 see Fig. 12 ; the left hand should now quit the reins, 
 seize the whip (see Fig. 13), and draw it through the 
 right hand. 
 
 A novice should not use a whip, for none but a good 
 rider can sit still, hold his horse together with one hand, 
 and flog at the same time. Though spurs do not present 
 
P UNISHMENT. 1 27 
 
 these difficulties, they are much less efficient than a whip 
 in the hand of a " workman." 
 
 Efifect of PunistLment on Horses. — Without wishine 
 to be " hard " on a very meritorious class of men, I must 
 say that a large number of horses are annually ruined 
 for life by needless punishment. Jockeys are apt to 
 attach too much weight to the opinion of the public, and 
 consequently often " ride a horse out " rather than ease 
 him, when pursuit is hopeless. 
 
 Though the view backers take of " cutting a horse to 
 pieces " is very different to the one held by a humane 
 owner, still it is a difficult point to decide whether a 
 jockey is always justified in punishing a horse to the 
 utmost of his power, if he thinks that by so doing he 
 has any chance of winning. If he knows that he has no 
 chance, and persists in using whip and spur, he ought 
 never to get another mount. Regarding the matter as an 
 owner and racing man, I hold that a jockey should not 
 " knock about " a young promising horse or valuable old 
 one, for an unimportant event, on a mere off chance of 
 winning. He should be most particular not to " squeeze " 
 one which has any suspicion of jadiness. Though it is too 
 much to expect that a jockey should take a sentimental 
 view of punishment, still he ought to regard the interests 
 
28 
 
 RACE RIDING. 
 
 of his employer, within honourable limits, and should be 
 averse to ruin the noble animal by whose exertions he 
 earns his bread. The most forcible argument I can use 
 against punishment is that, in nine cases out of ten, it 
 defeats its own object. 
 
 TOM CANNON. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 STEEPLECHASE RIDING. 
 
 Before riding a chase, the jockey should go round and 
 carefully examine the course, if it is strange to him, in 
 order to find out the easiest and safest parts of the 
 fences, which knowledge may be most useful to him 
 when his horse is tired ; to mark where the "taking off" 
 and " landing " is soundest ; and to observe the nature 
 of the ground, so that he may know when to go fast, 
 where the " going " is good, when to take a pull at his 
 horse, where it is heavy, or where, as may occur over a 
 natural line of country, he may make a slight detour 
 with advantage. 
 
 He should, above all things, make up his mind to go 
 straight, and should never allow his horse the chance of 
 even trying to refuse. If he knows that his mount is 
 incapable of making a wilful mistake, he should merely 
 regulate the pace, and should, on no account, interfere 
 
 K 
 
I30 STEEPLECHASE RIDING. 
 
 with his fencing ; for a pull at his mouth, or a touch of 
 the whip or spurs, at a critical moment, can only tend to 
 make him shorten or lengthen his stride, and, conse- 
 quently, to blunder. If the horse be dangerously im- 
 petuous, he should " drop his hands," speak soothingly 
 to him, and sit as still as possible. If he be liable to 
 chance his fences, and not jump big enough, the jockey 
 should take a good hold of his head and should rouse 
 him when approaching them. He should, however, 
 avoid, unless obliged to do so, hitting the horse with the 
 whip when in the act of jumping, as the sight of it is apt 
 to distract his attention, and may make him blunder over 
 the fence, or to refuse, which he can easily do when the 
 rider has only one hand on the reins. Pressure of the 
 legs and the voice should always be used as a stimulus in 
 preference to the spurs, and the spurs to the whip. It 
 sometimes happens, however, that in the last stride we 
 instinctively feel that the horse is not going to jump big 
 enough, whereupon our heels close, or our whip comes 
 down in response to the thought which flashes in a moment 
 through our brain. These instinctive impulses very rarely 
 lead the experienced rider into error. They are the results 
 of long practice. The jockey should not allow a horse 
 which is liable to refuse, to imagine that he may do so with 
 
GETTING WELL AWAY. 131 
 
 impunity, because the rider sits quietly and appears to 
 trust to his honour, for although all horses know when 
 their rider funks, some of them often seem to assume that 
 he does so when such is not really the case. Most horses 
 jump best when they are steadied a little, say about forty 
 or fifty yards from their fences, and are then allowed to go 
 their own pace at them. I am, of course, here referring 
 to steeplechasing, and not about crossing country on 
 occasions when the horseman can take his own time. 
 
 The horse's head should never be let loose, while an 
 extra pull should be taken on the reins, when going 
 through heavy ground, so as to make him shorten his 
 stride. 
 
 The rider should endeavour, as a rule, to get away 
 in front for the first couple of fences. He will thus 
 avoid being jostled, or " carried out," by any determined 
 refusers which may happen to start ; he will also have a 
 clear view of his country, instead of its being obscured 
 by a crowd in front of him. As the first two or three 
 fences are generally low and easy, there is little risk in 
 racing at them on a fresh horse, which, if he has any 
 pretensions to the name of a steeplechaser, ought to 
 permit this small liberty to be taken with him. When 
 the rider finds his road is clear, he may settle down and 
 
 K 2 
 
132 STEEPLECHASE RIDING. 
 
 ride as he thinks fit. If the ground is dusty, as so 
 often happens in India, it is all important to get well 
 away at the drop of the flag. 
 
 A jockey should take his own line, and should not 
 ride close in the track of any other horse, for, if he does 
 so, he will, in the event of his leader making a mistake, 
 run a great risk of coming to grief, with the off chance of 
 jumping on and perhaps killing his man. 
 
 Besides that, his horse will not be able to see his fences 
 properly if he has another right in front of him. If the 
 rider is on a horse which has a fine turn of speed, but is 
 one that requires a lead, he may keep thirty or forty 
 yards behind any clever fencer which is going fast 
 enough. 
 
 The jockey may stand in his stirrups between the 
 fences, so as to give the utmost freedom to the horse's 
 loins and hind quarters, in which lie the propelling 
 power, but should sit down in his saddle when he 
 approaches them ; for if the horse makes a blunder 
 when the rider is leaning forward, the animal is much 
 more liable to come down and the rider to come off, 
 than they would be were the weight not on the horse's 
 fore legs. 
 
 Unless the field are racing very fast, the jockey 
 
JUMPING WATER. I33 
 
 should moderate his pace somewhat when going at high 
 fences. Of course he should go fast at water, so as to 
 be able to clear it with ease, but he should be most care- 
 ful to ride the horse up to his bit, and get his hind 
 quarters well under him by the pressure of his legs, and, 
 if need be, by a touch of the spurs, so that the horse 
 may not overjump himself, but shall land and get away 
 again in his stride. Of the two faults it is better to go 
 too slow, with the horse properly in hand, than very 
 fast, with a loose rein, at water. 
 
 A man should avoid, if he can, riding a little, say half 
 a length, behind an opponent that is alongside him in a 
 chase, w^hen nearing a fence ; for in such a case, the 
 horse will be very apt to "take off" at the same instant 
 the other does so, and, consequently to jump too soon. 
 When galloping side by side, horses seem to like going 
 stride for stride with each other. Besides this, the one 
 that is a little behind may pay more attention to 
 looking at his adversary than at his fence. I have 
 seen, on different occasions, horses come to grief in this 
 manner, and also from an opponent, who has a slight 
 lead, "rushing them" at their jumps with the intention 
 of thus bringing them down. 
 
 If a horse be alongside one in a chase, it is usually 
 
134 STEEPLECHASE RIDING. 
 
 much better to have him on one's near side than on the 
 off ; for if horses refuse, they generally do so to the left, 
 the cause for this often being the injudicious use of the 
 whip on some previous occasion. Besides this, horses 
 are led, handled and mounted more on the near than on 
 the off side, which naturally makes them turn more 
 readily to it. With a horse on the near side, when 
 coming to a fence, one escapes to a great measure the 
 dsk of his running into one, while having him there may 
 prevent one's own horse refusing if he be that way 
 inclined. When riding a horse which is at all inclined 
 to run out, one may with advantage carry the whip in 
 the hand to which he shows a tendency to refuse. 
 
 Stirrup leathers for riding across country should 
 generally be a hole or two shorter than for the flat. 
 
 The remarks I have made on flat race riding apply, 
 witliin certain limits, equally well to chasing. 
 
( 135 ) 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 Men waste for riding, either to keep down their weight 
 for a considerable time, as jockeys have to do during 
 the racing season, or for one particular race or meeting. 
 In the first case, a man should chiefly rely on abstinence 
 in the matter of food and drink, and exercise, as physic 
 and heavy sweats continued for a long time would 
 destroy his strength and nei-ve. In training, the diet 
 should be limited to fresh meat, boiled, grilled, or roast- 
 on no account stewed or fried — plain boiled fish without 
 sauce, dry biscuit, toast, and stale bread, with a small 
 variety of vegetables that do not put up weight, such 
 as onions, which are particularly useful in this respect, 
 but on no account should sauce or butter be used with 
 them. Salt ought to be the only condiment allowed. 
 Jockeys generally confine themselves to cold meat and 
 biscuit, which food palls quickly on their appetite. 
 
136 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 Potatoes, broad beans, peas, rice, butter, milk, fat of every 
 kind, soups, puddings, sugar, sweets, stews, minces, and 
 everything containing an excess of fat, sugar or starch, 
 should be carefully avoided. It is a well-known fact, 
 that to keep in good health one should eat daily a 
 certain proportion of vegetables, in order that certain 
 salts contained in them may be furnished to the system. 
 By cooking, a large proportion of these salts being lost, 
 a man in training should eat every day, so to as obviate 
 the necessity of consuming a large bulk, a small quan- 
 tity of lettuces, raw tomatoes, onions, celery, cucumber, 
 radishes or cress, or in their place a little fresh fruit, with 
 the exception of those which contain much sugar or 
 starchy matter. 
 
 When wasting, one should avoid eating large quan- 
 tities of meat ; for doing so produces great languor 
 and depression. '* The first effect of an excessive meat 
 diet is not that of increased strength, but rather 
 a feeling of heaviness and weariness in the muscles, 
 with nervous excitation often rising to sleeplessness, 
 which he [Ranke] attributes to the accumulation 
 in the blood of the alkaline salts of the meat " 
 (Carpenter). 
 
 The drink should be restricted to water, weak tea 
 
GETTING FIT. i37 
 
 without milk or sugar, light claret and water, or very 
 weak spirits-and-water. The weaker these are taken, the 
 better ; for tea, coffee, and alcohol check waste of tissue. 
 A man in strict training will find it judicious not to drink 
 aerated waters, for they are so refreshing that it is hard 
 to resist taking more than is advisable. As fluid of any 
 sort puts up w^eight, a man should only drink that kind 
 of which a little will quench thirst. I need hardly say 
 that the less spirits a man takes, the steadier will be his 
 nerves. If this regimen be strictly adhered to, the 
 jockey need do nothing further than to take lots of 
 exercise. By this I mean that he should not flinch 
 from doing a twenty or a twenty-five mile w^alk. Riding 
 four or five training gallops every morning will get a 
 man fitter than anything I know ; but as this is a 
 luxury in which heavy weights cannot indulge, they 
 ought to walk, play racquets, lawn tennis, or cricket, 
 and take all the healthy exercise they can get, whether 
 on horseback or on foot, short of going in for regular 
 sweats. A saline draught may be necessary now and 
 then. Lamplough's pyretic saline or Eno's fruit salt 
 is probably the most agreeable laxative, though Epsom 
 salts are by far the most effectual aperient for getting 
 off weight. 
 
138 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 The following would be about the correct style of 
 daily food : A steak or a couple of chops — done on the 
 gridiron, but not in the fryingpan — a couple of slices of 
 stale bread, or dry crisp toast, a few plain boiled onions, 
 a bunch of radishes or cress, a stick of celery, or a 
 couple of tomatoes, and a cup of tea, wdth a very little 
 milk and without sugar, for breakfast. A slice or two 
 of cold meat, a hard biscuit, and a glass of water for 
 lunch. A couple of slices from a joint, plain boiled 
 onions, a biscuit, a stick of celery, and half a pint of 
 claret with water for dinner. By pursuing this system, 
 with plenty of ordinary exercise, a man, in a month 
 or so, will gradually get down to within 5 or 6 lbs. 
 of his lightest riding weight, which, if required, can 
 be attained by a couple of sweats and a dose of 
 physic. 
 
 I am glad to find that John Osborne and Edwin 
 Martin advocate the system of long quick w^alks with- 
 out sweaters, and strict moderation in food without 
 actual Banting, in preference to that of violent purga- 
 tives and heavy sweats. Both have repeatedly got off 
 28 lbs. in a fortnight or three weeks, and felt all the 
 better for it. Regular sweats depress a man so much, 
 and make him so nervous, that he cannot continue 
 
WALKING THE WEIGHT OFF. 139 
 
 taking them, in an effectual manner, for a lengthened 
 period. A jockey will find that after taking off 5 or 
 6 lbs. by a single sweat, he will put it nearly all on 
 again by eating even a very moderate meal. The first few 
 long walks will not take much weight off ; but, if they 
 be continued, they will rapidly waste off his superfluous 
 flesh. The system of long walks and abstinence as 
 regards food, requires so much fixity of purpose and 
 self-denial, that it is easy to imagine how unpopular 
 it is among so-called fashionable jockeys. If an 
 aperient be required, the jockey may put, as Edwin 
 Martin used to do, a teaspoonful of Epsom salts in 
 half a cup of warm tea, which should be drunk and 
 then followed by the remaining half-cupful. This 
 will produce an excellent effect without injury to the 
 health. 
 
 But if a man is too lazy to walk and fast, he may 
 Bant, though he should dispense with his frugal lunch, 
 and eat and drink as little as he can manage to do 
 with at breakfast and dinner. The training may com- 
 mence with a strong dose of physic, say three Cockle's 
 pills at night and an ounce of Epsom salts next 
 morning. On that day, nothing beyond a quiet walk 
 should be done ; but on the next and succeeding days 
 
I40 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 he should take a sweat, and about every third day an 
 ounce of salts the first thing in the morning. On 
 the day physic is taken, a walk without sweaters will 
 be enough. The sweat should be arranged in some- 
 thing of the following fashion : a pair of long knicker- 
 bocker stockings, over which a pair of thick worsted 
 ones and a pair of boots for the feet ; three long drawers 
 of "yellow sweating flannel" — which is made for the 
 purpose — and a pair of trousers; or, if these sweating 
 drawers be not available, a pair of drawers and a couple 
 of pairs of thick cloth trourses, for the legs ; four yellow 
 flannel body sweaters, or their equivalent in flannel 
 shirts, with a waistcoat or two, a shooting coat and 
 a greatcoat for the body ; a pair of warm gloves 
 for the hands, a large w^oollen comforter wrapped 
 round and round the neck, and a couple of large cloth 
 caps pulled down over the ears, will do as far as 
 clothing is concerned. A pair of thick woollen socks, 
 folded as if they were about to be put on the feet, are a 
 capital substitute for gloves. Great care should be 
 taken that every part be protected from the air, for, 
 if even the hands or neck be left bare, perspiration will 
 be materially checked. With this amount of clothes, 
 on a warm day, most men will find that a sharp walk 
 
A SWEAT. 141 
 
 of eight miles will be as much as they can do without 
 overtaxing their strength. One should arrange, if 
 possible, so as to have the wind at one's back when 
 returning home. The walk being finished, the man in 
 training should lie down with a lot of rugs heaped over 
 him, and remain thus as long as he can, which usually 
 will not be more than ten minutes or a quarter of an 
 hour. During this time, the heavy oppressed feeling 
 about the heart is most trying. 
 
 After the rugs and clothes are taken off, the man 
 should be quickly dried, and then have a warm bath, 
 after which he may have a cold douche if his liver be 
 in good order. He should not dress until he is tho- 
 roughly cool, and ought to forbear taking anything to 
 drink as long as he possibly can after a sweat, for 
 the more heated the body is, the more rapidly will 
 it absorb fluid. 
 
 In India and in other hot climates, a man cannot 
 walk in clothing much more than half the distance 
 he could accomplish in England, under similar circum- 
 stances. 
 
 If a man has hacks to ride, and is unable to walk, 
 he can take a sweat on horseback by putting on clothes 
 as described, and then going for a sharp ride ; but this. 
 
142 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 though pleasanter, will not be as effective practice as 
 walking. 
 
 A sweat, like that I have described, will take from 
 4 lbs. to 6 lbs, off an ordinary man, provided that there 
 be little or no wind, which most materially prevents 
 perspiration. When taking a sweat in hot climates, 
 one should avoid the sun as much as possible, for few 
 things tend to make one so nervous, as hard exercise 
 when exposed to its influence. Having one's nerves 
 in good order is of far more consequence, than being 
 able to get the exact weight. This particularly applies 
 to men who ride their own horses, for jockeys have little 
 option in the matter, owners being often foolishly 
 exacting on this point. I am quite certain that, on the 
 flat, a jockey can ride quite five pounds better when he 
 is fit and well, than he can when he is weak from 
 wasting ; while in steeplechasing the difference is one 
 of stones and not of pounds. 
 
 A lamp bath is often taken Instead of a regular sweat, 
 if the man in training be lazy, or not able to walk well. 
 It is arranged thus : a lamp for the purpose, or three or 
 four small saucers full of oil with lighted cotton wicks in 
 them, are placed under a chair on which the man sits. 
 It is well to have the seat of the chair made of wood. 
 
A LAMP BATH. 143 
 
 and its under surface covered with zinc, or tin, which 
 will prevent it from being burned, and will also 
 radiate the heat. He should have no clothes on, but 
 should have several rugs and blankets wrapped round 
 the chair and himself, and brought tight under it, so that 
 the heated air may not escape. A waterproof sheet 
 considerably assists this operation. A little practice is 
 required to teach one how to get the rugs and blankets 
 fixed. If the hot air be properly kept in, the person 
 taking this bath will, in about ten minutes, break out into 
 a profuse perspiration. He may continue in this state 
 for an hour, which will be as long as most men can bear. 
 A portable Turkish bath may be used. 
 
 A lamp bath will take little more than half the weight 
 off that a regular sweat will do, for its action is confined 
 to the pores of the skin alone, while in the other, there 
 is a general waste of the body, the lungs aiding very 
 largely in carrying off the debris. When walking, waste 
 of tissue rapidly takes place by reason of the blood- 
 vessels of the lungs taking up an increased supply of 
 oxygen, which is then carried through the system and is 
 utilised for removing the carbon of the broken-up 
 material in the form of carbonic acid, which is exhaled 
 from the lungs into the atmosphere. By this process 
 
144 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 the blood is kept pure. Under the influence of a lamp 
 bath, the action of the heart, after a short time, becomes 
 tumultuous, and the breathing laboured, on account of 
 the lungs becoming gorged with impure blood, till at 
 last faintness and marked distress may ensue. By per- 
 sisting in these sweats, the heart is very liable to become 
 permanently injured. 
 
 I have described wasting and Banting from a jockey's 
 point of view, though I am well aware how injurious 
 they are to health, which cannot be maintained, under 
 ordinary conditions, without the consumption of a due 
 proportion of fat or oil, and starch or sugar in the food 
 along with an adequate supply of fresh vegetables. I 
 would strongly advise any of my readers who, being 
 inclined to put up weight, may wish to keep it perma- 
 nently down, on no account to Bant, but to take lots 
 of hard exercise, and to substitute for the usual dinner 
 a light meal consisting of a little cold lean meat, 
 and some plain vegetables. This, with an ordinary 
 breakfast at about lO A.M., and a cup of tea and 
 a slice of toast first thing in the morning, will be 
 enough for any healthy man to keep " fit " on. Beer, 
 butter, stews, fat of all kinds, and pastry should be 
 avoided. 
 
WEIGHING. 145 
 
 I need hardly say, that any mode of wasting, however 
 good, must prove injurious if carried to excess or con- 
 tinued for a long period. The quicker weight is got off, 
 under judicious conditions, and the sooner the system is 
 allowed to return to its natural healthy state, the less 
 strain will it experience from wasting. 
 
 The more a man trusts to hard exercise and self-dejiial^ 
 the " fitter " will he be to ride ; while Banting, sweats, 
 and physic should only be employed when time is 
 limited, or the amount to be got off is considerable, and 
 the notice very short. 
 
 A man in training should weigh himself every day 
 to see how the process of wasting proceeds. A Salter's 
 spring balance, noting J- lbs. up to 200 lbs., is a cheap 
 and portable machine for the purpose. 
 
 A man can ride in a light saddle (of 2 or 2j lbs.) 
 about 5 lbs. less than what he will weigh in ordinary 
 clothes. 
 
 If a jockey be at all in hard condition, he need allow 
 nothing for wasting during a race on a hot day, for the 
 horse will sweat as much into the saddle cloth or pannel, 
 as the jockey is likely to lose. 
 
 The following is a safe rule to adopt for weighing out 
 before a race. Everything, including the bridle, being 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 WASTING FOR RACE RIDING. 
 
 in the scales, put \ lb. on the opposite side, and if 
 the jockey can draw his weight with this \ lb., he is 
 quite safe. 
 
 Weighing before a race is called ''weighing out," and 
 after a race it is termed " weighing in." 
 
 ^-:^ 
 
^;^,:c^f^?r 
 
 1' 
 
 I^i^ 
 
( 147 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 A Lady's Horse— Riding Gear— Holding the Reins and Whip- 
 How to Mount—'' Hands "—How to Dismount— The Riders 
 Dress. 
 
 As the object of this book is to teach the theory and 
 practice of riding in a " workmanlike ''' manner, I shall not 
 touch on the artificial rules and varying fashions of park 
 or school equitation, but shall devote my space to the 
 special points of horsemanship which concern ladies, and 
 which hold good for all time. 
 
 A Lady's Horse.— The question of man or woman 
 being able to ride and control a horse, supposing him to 
 be properly bitted and saddled, resolves itself into the 
 more or less perfect possession by the rider of the 
 following requisites : good hands ; strong seat ; firm 
 nerves ; even temper, and physical strength. If a lady 
 lack somewhat the last-mentioned gift, she amply makes 
 up for the deficiency by a tightness of grip unobtainable 
 
 L 2 
 
148 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 in a man's saddle ; while it is but bare justice to say 
 that in touch, courage, and patience she is at least our 
 equal. Mere brute force has little to do with the capa- 
 bility of holding a puller. We need no better proof of 
 this than to see the admirable manner in which a clever 
 5 St. 7 lbs. lad can hold an impetuous thoroughbred at 
 exercise, or on the race-course, in a plain snaffle, which 
 feat a 12 st. athlete, were he but a moderate horseman, 
 might be quite incapable of doing. Ladies who have 
 had equal opportunities, with men, of learning, ride quite 
 as well as they. But, as a rule, they don't get the 
 chance of excelling, nor are they " set right " by unpalat- 
 able home truths being told them without favour or 
 affection, unless, indeed, they have hard-riding, and, 
 may be, jealous brothers. The fact of a lady having to 
 ride in a side saddle subjects her to three disadvantages : 
 she is unable, without assistance, to mount as readily as 
 a man ; she cannot apply pressure of the leg to the 
 horse's right side ; and she cannot " drop her hands " 
 in order to pull her horse together to the same extent 
 as he can. The judicious use of the whip or hunting 
 crop may partly make up for the absence of leg pressure 
 on the off side. A fine horsewoman, therefore, may be 
 satisfied with any horse which is fit for a man, provided 
 
A LADY'S HO BSE. i49 
 
 he Is fairly steady to mount, goes up to his bit, and does 
 not require an unusual amount of " collecting." I have 
 the pleasure of knowing several ladies who could ride 
 anything that has ever been foaled, yet it is not desir- 
 able, even with one of them, to have a horse " dance 
 about " when he is being mounted, or one which " sprawls 
 all over the place " and requires constant pulling together, 
 when the rider is up. 
 
 The ordinary lady rider ought to have a horse which 
 is perfectly steady to mount ; is light in hand ; goes in 
 a natural collected manner, and is safe and easy to ride. 
 He should not be rough or high in his action, lest he 
 might fatigue her unnecessarily. All ladies, except 
 those who are nervous, like light-hearted showy horses, 
 though, unless they are really good riders, they natu- 
 rally desire the fire and gaiety to be well under 
 control. The plucky hard-riding sort love to steer 
 horses w^hich other ladies would be " afraid of their 
 lives " to mount. 
 
 Timid ladies, or those who are just beginning to learn, 
 should be put only on animals which are perfectly steady 
 in every respect, easy in their paces, and which will 
 allow their mouths to be pulled about, without resenting 
 the interference, or getting out of hand in the slightest. 
 
ISO LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 If such a horse be rather " woodeny " in his paces, no 
 fault should be found with him on that account. 
 
 In order to give plenty of room for the saddle, a 
 lady's horse may be longer in the back than would be 
 desirable in one for a man. He should be quite 21 lbs., 
 taken from a man's point of view, above the weight he 
 has to carry, as extra fatigue is entailed on him by the 
 rider having to sit so far back. The side position natu- 
 rally causes an unequal distribution of weight. Besides 
 this, a lady cannot ease her horse by standing in the 
 stirrups or getting off and on as a man may often do 
 during a long ride. The far back position of the seat, 
 however, enables a lady to ride a horse which is un- 
 certain on his fore legs better than a man can do. 
 
 A lady's horse may, with advantage, have a fairly 
 high forehand, so that the saddle may not shift forward, 
 and that he may not jolt his rider too much. 
 
 The style of horse should, if possible, be in thorough 
 keeping with the style of rider. A young lady with a 
 slight pretty figure will look best on a horse which is 
 all blood and quality ; while a portly and dignified 
 matron will be best suited with one of the weight-carry- 
 ing hunter stamp. 15.1 is a nice height for a horse to 
 carry a lady five feet high. We may add an inch in 
 
THE SIDE SADDLE, 151 
 
 height for the horse, for every four inches by which the 
 lady exceeds five feet. 
 
 Grey horses are objectionable for ladies, as the hair 
 which comes off their bodies shows very much on the 
 habit. Besides this, they are difficult to be kept clean. 
 
 Geldings are always preferable for ladies to either 
 mares or horses. The former are especially objection- 
 able in India, the latter in England. 
 
 Riding Gear. — The side saddle has, as we all know, 
 a near pommel, over which the rider places her right 
 leg, and a third crutch (or leaping head) for her left 
 leg to press against, while the old-fashioned off pommel 
 should be altogether w^anting, or cut so low as not to 
 interfere with the lady lowering her hand when she is 
 holding the reins. Its absence favours her chance of 
 falling clear in the event of her horse coming down. 
 The third crutch should be placed so that it may press 
 against that part of the rider's leg w^hich is about three 
 inches above the knee. It ought to be sufficiently 
 separated from the pommel to afford, along with it, a 
 firm purchase to the rider. The shorter the rider's limb, 
 the nearer ought the third crutch to be placed to the 
 pommel. If the two be wide apart from each other, a 
 rider whose limb is short will probably be able to 
 
152 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 touch the third crutch with only the point of her left 
 knee, and will consequently have a very insecure seat 
 in such a saddle. The third crutch may he made im- 
 movable ; may screw in and out ; or may be attached to 
 the tree by a hinge, so as fold down when required, 
 as proposed by Mr. Lennan, the eminent Dublin saddler. 
 This arrangement, although it may possibly be weaker, 
 is quite as convenient as that of the screw, for facili- 
 tating the packing or putting away of the saddle, 
 and does not, like the other, possess the disadvantage 
 of being liable to work loose. It may possibly be 
 safer in case of a fall. When the crutch is movable, 
 the screw, unless it be thick, and the thread particu- 
 larly deep, is apt to work loose, when it will prove 
 most inconvenient and uncomfortable. The crutch 
 should never be unscrewed, except at rare intervals to 
 clean and oil it. Many ladies consider it a great 
 advantage to be able to change the angle of the crutch 
 a little so as to ease the leg during a long ride, and 
 hence prefer the screw arrangement, which is convenient 
 when more than one lady uses a saddle, as the same 
 angle for the crutch will not suit all riders. The crutch 
 should be only sufficiently long to give a firm bearing 
 for the leg, and should be but slightly curved, except 
 
THE SIDE SADDLE. 
 
 153 
 
 just towards the end, which may be turned-in a httle. 
 A long crooked crutch is very dangerous in case of a 
 
 fall. 
 
 The seat of the saddle should be level, and be without 
 any hollowing-out, in order to avoid an unpleasant drag 
 on the rider's right leg ; while the shape of the tree 
 should be regulated so that it may have a correct bear- 
 ing alon^ the muscles of the back, and to obviate the 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 risk of its end touching the backbone— an unpleasant 
 contingency which frequently occurs with common-made 
 saddles. When the saddle, as it is often made to do, rises 
 too much in front, or when the tree is too short and 
 flat, the cantle, in the gallop or canter, is forced down- 
 wards and backwards, so that the skin, just behind the 
 saddle, is liable to be rumpled and bruised at each stride, 
 
154 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 a sore back being the result in a short time. Owing to 
 the shape of the horse's back, it is all but impossible to 
 have the seat quite horizontal, when girthed up. 
 
 Though the greatest care should be taken to prevent 
 the possibility of the gullet plate (the iron arch at the 
 pommel) touching the withers, as long as there is suffi- 
 cient space left to prevent such an accident, there 
 is no need to have the pommel tilted up more than 
 can be helped. The saddle should maintain its position 
 by the proper shape of the tree, and not by stuffing, 
 the presence of which is simply a necessary evil to save 
 the back from becoming chafed. The less stuffing em- 
 ployed, the less tendency will the saddle have to shift 
 its position. The saddle should be amply long for the 
 rider, both to ensure a proper distribution of weight, and 
 also to prevent a galled back. The " points " of the tree 
 should fit closely to the horse's sides — ^just behind the 
 shoulderblades — so as to prevent any " wobbling " of the 
 saddle. Ladies generally find it convenient to have the 
 seat on the near side eased off so as to allow the rider's 
 left leg to get close to the horse. Timid or unpractised 
 riders may have the seats of their saddles quilted, or 
 covered with buckskin. Any ornamental stitching about 
 a saddle certainly detracts from its workmanlike ap- 
 
THE STIRRUP LEATHER, 155 
 
 pearance. The off flap need not be larger than that of 
 a man's hunting saddle. It may have a pocket for the 
 sandwich case, and D's for straps to attach the tightly- 
 rolled covert-coaty which might be made waterproof. 
 
 I do not believe that a thoroughly serviceable side 
 saddle, which is big enough for an ordinary sized lady, 
 can be made " all complete " at a less weight than 18 lbs. 
 The stirrtLp leather may be attached to the near 
 side by a spring bar, similar to the one used for men's 
 saddles, or it may pass over a roller bar on the near 
 side, and be attached to a leather girth which is 
 buckled on to a strap on the off side in reach of the 
 lady's hand when she is on horseback. The spring 
 bar arrangement possesses the advantages of safety 
 — always supposing that the lock is kept open, or, at 
 least, well oiled — simplicity, and of not requiring the 
 leather to be altered in length for different horses, or 
 for the same horse when he gets a little slack in his 
 girth from work. The other plan allows the rider to 
 arrange her stirrup, as she wishes, after she has got on, 
 to change the length when she likes, and makes her 
 independent of anyone's assistance, if, having a mount 
 in a strange saddle, she finds she has not got the proper 
 length. It serves the purpose of a surcingle in keeping 
 
156 
 
 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 the flaps down. It will also enable the lady to mount 
 without any assistance, if she lets out the stirrup to 
 its full length, and then shortens it when she is in the 
 saddle. I fail to see the advantage, from a mechanical 
 point of view, of the "balance strap," except the very 
 doubtful one of squeezing the horse's side when the 
 rider puts her weight on the stirrup, which must tend to 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 Ficr. 16. 
 
 make the animal unsteady. I find, as a rule, that ladies 
 like the roller bar arrangement better than the other, 
 perhaps, because few have tried the spring-bar plan 
 advocated by Colonel Greenwood. 
 
 The stirrup iron may be made to open at the side 
 (Fig. 15); have one side completely removed ; be simply a 
 
STIRRUP IRONS. i57 
 
 gentleman's ordinary hunting stirrup ; or be of the Latch- 
 ford (Fig. 1 6) shape, which consists of two stirrups of un- 
 equal size, one within the other ; the small one, in which 
 the foot is placed, being made to free Itself from the other 
 on the slightest backward drag of the foot, in the event 
 of the rider being thrown, provided, always, that the 
 mechanism is kept well oiled. Padding placed round 
 the stirrup Is unnecessary, as a lady should not put 
 her foot " home," so cannot hurt her Instep against the 
 iron, while It may possibly prove dangerous by causing 
 the foot to catch in the stirrup. Colonel Greenwood 
 remarks that "the lady's stirrup iron should be in all 
 respects the same as a man's, and, to make assurance 
 doubly sure, it should open at the side with a spring. 
 This might be useful in case of a fall on the off side, 
 when the action of the spring-bar of the saddle might 
 be impeded. But if the stirrup is large and heavy, it 
 is next to impossible that the foot should be caught by 
 it. It is the common error to suppose that persons are 
 dragged owing to the stirrup being too large and the 
 foot passing through it ; but the reason is its being too 
 small and light ; It then sticks to the foot, and clasps it 
 by the pressure of the upper part of the stirrup above 
 the foot, and the lower part on the sole of the foot" 
 
158 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 I observe that Mrs. Power O'Donoghue (Nannie 
 Lambert) in her admirable articles on ladies' riding 
 in 'The Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News/ 
 advocates the use of a man's stirrup for ladies. Any- 
 mechanical arrangement which the stirrup may possess 
 should be kept clean and carefully oiled, so that there 
 may not be the slightest chance of its not working 
 properly at any critical moment. 
 
 A saddle-cloth should be used to keep the pannel 
 clean and to prevent it getting damp and caked from 
 sweat. A thick one should on no account be em- 
 ployed, except to prevent a sore back, as its presence 
 will increase the tendency which side saddles have of 
 wobbling and shifting their position. A leather saddle- 
 cloth is thin, sweat-proof, never gets hard, if constantly 
 used, looks well, affords admirable protection to the 
 back, and lasts for years. 
 
 As a rule the bit and bridoon (curb and snaffle) bridle 
 is the best one for a lady, as she may use the snaffle 
 alone if she likes, and have the curb in resei-ve for an 
 emergency. The reins may be somewhat narrower than 
 those which are suitable for the larger hands of a man. 
 With this exception, there need be no difference made 
 between the headgear of the lady's and gentleman's horse. 
 
MARTINGALES. 159 
 
 The question whether severely plain gear, or fancy and 
 ornamental trappings, best become the horse, does not 
 concern us here, so long as none of the rules of horse- 
 manship are violated. A neatly coloured brow-band 
 can hardly be out of place. Personally, I like horses 
 and their appointments to look as if they were intended 
 for work rather than show. I cannot see the use or 
 beauty of round reins, ornamentally curved cheek- 
 pieces, noseband fringes, and suchlike articles of bridle 
 millinery. 
 
 A rimnmg martingale that makes the pull of the reins 
 to be about on a level with the top of the withers, will 
 generally be an assistance to the rider, who is forced 
 by her position to hold her hands higher than they 
 ought to be, were she riding a la chevalier, unless, 
 indeed, the horse carries his head too low. 
 
 If the horse makes a practice of stargazing or chuck- 
 ing up his head, a standing martingale may be used 
 with advantage (see page 234). Some horses will re- 
 quire a breastplate to prevent the saddle working back. 
 
 The side saddle should be placed yxst clear of the "play " 
 of the horse's shoulderblades, and should be girthed up 
 one or two holes tighter than would be necessary for a 
 man's saddle, as a lady, however straight she may hold 
 
i6o LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 herself, can hardly avoid putting more weight on one side 
 
 the near — than on the other; besides that, she cannot 
 
 help to keep the saddle in its place by the grip of the 
 legs, as a man can. The leather surcingle, being hard 
 and inelastic, should on no account be buckled tightly. 
 
 Before mounting, the rider might run her eye over 
 the following " points : " that the mouthpiece of the 
 bit (see p. 230) is just clear of the tushes of the horse, or 
 about an inch above the corner nippers of the mare ; 
 the curbchain the proper length ; the lipstrap on ; that 
 the snaffle does not wrinkle the corners of the mouth ; 
 that the throat latch is loose enough ; the running martin- 
 gale sufficiently long to have the pull of the reins on 
 a line with the top of the withers ; standing martingale, 
 if it be used, proper length ; saddle just clear of the 
 play of the shoulders ; girths tight ; and surcingle looser 
 than the girths. 
 
 The leather work of the saddle and bridle should be 
 clean and soft, the stitches clearly defined, and not 
 clogged up by grease or dirt ; while no stain should 
 be left on a white pocket-handkerchief, or kid glove, if 
 it be passed over any portion of the leather. Beeswax 
 should not be employed to give the saddle a polish, as 
 it makes it very " sticky." Nothing but soap should be 
 
HOLDING THE REINS. i6i 
 
 used, except, perhaps, a little saddle dressing once a 
 month. The steel work should of course be kept 
 bright. 
 
 Holding the Reins and Whip. — I strongly advise 
 ladies to hold their reins " crossed " in the manner 
 adopted by all jockeys and good cross-country riders. 
 This plan gives them an amount of power over their horse 
 which is unattainable by any other method. I venture 
 to propose the following modification of the " crossed " 
 rein style, which may be found very convenient for 
 riders with small hands, whose fingers bien ga?ites would 
 be incommoded by the reins passing through them. 
 If the lady wishes to ride on one rein only, she may 
 hold it in her left hand crossed as in the accompanying 
 sketch ; while she may hook up the other rein on her 
 middle finger, and let it loose or draw it up. If she 
 wishes to ride equally on both reins, she may treat 
 the two as one. If she wants to ride on one only, she 
 may loop the other up by a slipknot (see Fig. 8, page lo), 
 and hold her reins in the manner shown on page i. 
 The method of holding the reins with both hands is 
 shown on pages 3 and 5- 
 
 I would advise all beginners to make a practice of 
 riding with both hands on the reins. It helps them to 
 
 M 
 
i62 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 hold themselves straight, and is more effective, in every 
 way, than one-handed riding. 
 
 When the left hand only is used, the right may hang 
 straight, but loosely, down. 
 
 As a lady requires her whip, more to press the horse up 
 to his bit, and to prevent his hind quarters swinging 
 round to the right, when he is turned to the left, than to 
 punish him, the whip she carries should be stiff, though 
 light. The old-fashioned toy lady's whip, is quite out of 
 place in the hands of a good rider. Being much heavier 
 at one end than the other, it is an awkward and ill- 
 balanced affair. A light crop, for the lady who hunts, to 
 open gates, etc., or a small cane, is preferable to it in every 
 way. If a lady requires a whip for a sluggish horse, she 
 might use a light racing one. I would recommend it to 
 be made quite plain, and with a deep rim made of 
 whipcord at the butt end to prevent it slipping through 
 the fingers. It is usually held with the thin end pointing 
 up, though some ladies, perhaps not without reason, 
 think it more workmanlike to carry it in the way a 
 jockey does his whip. If they do so, I would advise 
 them to learn to " pick it up " in the manner described 
 on page 122. 
 
 When using the whip, the rider should cut straight 
 
MOUNTING, 163 
 
 down, and as close behind the girth as possible (see 
 page 120). 
 
 How to Mount. — A lady may mount her horse in the 
 following ways : 
 
 I. The groom should stand in front of the horse, and 
 should keep his head up by holding the snaffle reins, one 
 in each hand, close to the rings. He ougnt, on no ac- 
 count, to hold the bit reins, lest an accident might 
 happen, from the curb hurting the mouth. If there be 
 no snaffle, the cheekpieces of the headstall of the curb 
 should be held. With a strange or uncertain-tempered 
 horse, it is best for the lady to approach him from his 
 "left front." If he be very fidgety, and a wall or hedge 
 be near, he might be put close up against it, so that he 
 may not get away. Having arrived alongside her mount, 
 she should stand just behind his near fore leg, close to, 
 though not touching him, and facing to the front, at right 
 angles to his side. She now takes the whip and reins 
 in her right hand, and lightly feels the horse's mouth 
 with the snaffle reins, while her hand rests on the pommel. 
 If the horse has a tender mouth, the reins ought to be 
 held quite slack. She then raises her left foot about 
 twelve inches from the ground, keeping it in a vertical 
 line with her shoulder, and not advancing it in any way. 
 
 M 2 
 
i64 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 At the same time she Hfts up the skirt of her habit with 
 her left hand. The gentleman who is to assist her to 
 mount, bends down and takes her foot in the palms 
 of both hands, while she places her left hand, arm 
 straight, on his right shoulder. In order to mount, 
 she has simply to straighten her left leg and stand 
 on the gentleman's hands, while keeping her balance 
 with her right hand on the pommel and her left on his 
 shoulder. He will then be able to raise her, with the 
 utmost ease, to a sitting position on the saddle. The 
 interval between the moment she straightens her knee, 
 and when he begins to raise her, is almost imperceptible 
 if the lady is properly put on her horse. It is most 
 important for the beginner to understand the system of 
 mounting, which is simplicity itself. Many ladies are 
 rendered saddle-shy (if I may use the term) by gentle- 
 men, who knew nothing about it, having tried, and failed, 
 to put them on their horses on previous occasions. In 
 ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, it has been the man's 
 fault. Perhaps, from knowing no better, or from a desire 
 to show off his strength, he has used only one hand. He 
 may have brought her foot too much forward. Or, worst 
 betke of all, he may have attempted to raise her before 
 she had straightened her knee and rested her weight on 
 
MOUNTING, 165 
 
 his hands. I am writing at present as much for gentle- 
 men, as I am for ladies. After a lady, during her early 
 essays, has suffered from clumsy attempts to put her 
 up, it is not to be wondered at if she regards the feat of 
 mounting, as one which requires some peculiar knack 
 to accomplish, while she naturally becomes nervous 
 about attempting it, as failure is so ungraceful. If she 
 has any doubts about her capability to mount easily, 
 she ought to make a few preliminary attempts to stand 
 and support herself for four or five seconds on the gen- 
 tleman's hands. When she finds that she can do this 
 successfully, she may, when her leg is again straight, 
 give him a signal (or take one from him), to place her 
 on the saddle. If she be very timid, she may practise 
 straightening her knee indoors, with her right hand on 
 the chimneypiece of a room, and her left on a gentle- 
 man's shoulder. When the lady has placed her foot on 
 the gentleman's hands, he generally gives the " caution," 
 " one, two," for her to straighten her knee before he 
 raises her. As he lifts her up, she turns her body a 
 little to the left and places herself sideways on the 
 saddle. She then puts her right leg over the pommel, 
 and has her skirt drawn down in front ; the right 
 knee should fit exactly into the curved seam made 
 
i66 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 on purpose in the habit. The skirt should be pulled 
 well down between the right leg and the saddle. If 
 properly cut, it will never "work up," even in jump- 
 ing, presuming, of course, that the rider sits, as she 
 ought to do, with her right foot well against the horse, 
 and that she does not swing it about. She now places, 
 with the aid of the gentleman, her left foot in the 
 stirrup, as far as the ball of the foot. The gentleman may 
 draw the habit down behind, or, while resting her right 
 hand, with the reins in it, on the pommel, she may rise 
 in the stirrup and smooth down her habit with her left 
 hand. " This act of clearing the slack of the skirt is one 
 which is so frequently necessary for the lady to execute 
 when riding that she should practise it frequently in her 
 early lessons. It is true that when the assistant first 
 places her on the horse he can arrange her habit as she 
 rises from the saddle ; but, for some time, until she has 
 acquired firmness and perfect balance, her habit will in- 
 variably ride up, particularly in trotting, and it is neces- 
 sary that she should be independent in this respect 
 of the gentleman who attends her. Moreover, as to 
 arrange the habit gracefully requires considerable practice, 
 it should form a distinct part of the lesson at first when 
 the horse is standing perfectly still, afterwards at a walk. 
 
MOUNTIXG. 167 
 
 and finally at a trot. In cantering it cannot be done " 
 ( Vieille Moustache). The habit being settled, the rider 
 takes up the reins with the left hand, or with both. 
 
 If the horse be very steady, the lady may mount in 
 the foregoing manner, even without the help of a groom. 
 
 2. If there be no groom present, and the horse re- 
 quires to be held, the gentleman may do it with the 
 left hand, while he places his right, palm up, on his knee, 
 for the lady to put her foot on. Or he may steady him- 
 self and the horse, by holding the reins and the mane in 
 the same manner as if he were going to mount. 
 
 3. If the horse be fractious and the gentleman be 
 unaided, or if the lady is quite alone with a steady 
 horse, she may mount from a low wall, chair, etc. If a 
 gentleman be present, he may stand in front of the horse 
 and hold him in the way already described for the groom 
 to do ; or, if the horse shows unwillingness to approach 
 the mounting block, the gentleman may hold the off 
 cheekpiece of the headstall of the bridle with his right 
 hand, and, with the flat of his left hand, prevent the 
 horse from swinging his hind quarters out. When the 
 horse is sufficiently close, the lady should take the whip 
 and reins in her left hand and " feel " the horse's mouth. 
 She should put the left foot in the stirrup, take the 
 
i68 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 pommel with her left hand, the cantle with the right, and 
 spring lightly between both hands into the saddle. The 
 right leg is then put over the pommel, left foot put into 
 the stirrup, and habit arranged. 
 
 4. To get into the saddle from the ground, without the 
 assistance of a gentleman or mounting block, the lady 
 should " let out " the stirrup, as few can reach it without 
 doing so, with an ordinary sized horse. When the 
 stirrup leather buckles on the off side, within reach of 
 the lady's hand, she can readily shorten it when mounted, 
 though she will have difficulty to do so when it is 
 attached to the near side. 
 
 A lady friend and accomplished rider writes to me as 
 follows : — '' All ladies who hunt ought to be able to 
 mount unassisted, as they are liable to get a fall when 
 no one is close at hand to help them up. It may 
 happen also that from being thrown out, or from some 
 other cause, a lady may have to ride home quite alone 
 after a tiring day. How many ladies I have heard say 
 that they would gladly rest from their one unalterable 
 position in the saddle by walking a mile or so on the 
 way home, were it not for the difficulty of remounting." 
 
 The Seat. — The left foot should be placed in the stirrup 
 as far as the ball of the foot, and not ''home." The 
 
THE SEA T. 
 
 length of the stirrup should be such as to allow the third 
 crutch to press, without inconvenience, against the left 
 thigh just above the knee, while the left leg, from the 
 knee downwards, should be perpendicular to the ground. 
 It is important that the stirrup be not long, so that, in 
 trotting, the rider may not throw too much weight on 
 the near side. The left foot should be parallel to the 
 horse's side, with its heel slightly lowered, at the walk ; 
 but when cantering or galloping, it may be drawn back 
 five or six inches, and its heel well depressed. Nothing 
 looks more ungraceful, or indicates the bad rider more 
 clearly, than the habit, when going fast, of drawing back 
 the leg from the knee downwards, until it is in an almost 
 horizontal position. 
 
 The right foot should be drawn back, and its toe 
 raised, so that a good grip may be obtained by the 
 muscles of the calf becoming tense. It should press 
 well against the horse, should be parallel with his 
 shoulder, and should not have any backward and for- 
 ward sway in trotting. The toe of the boot should 
 never project forward, so as to show against the skirt of 
 the habit. 
 
 The rider should sit in the middle of the saddle and 
 as straight as possible. Grace and firmness of seat 
 
I70 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 cannot be obtained unless she sits zvell doivii. To do 
 this, she must, while sitting well back, keep her body 
 upright by the play of the hip-joints, and not by hollow- 
 ing out the small of her back. The waist should be kept 
 quite lissom. Both men and women, when riding, 
 should keep their bodies upright and their shoulders 
 back by the working of the hips. When this is done, 
 the seat of the rider is carried, as much as possible, under 
 the centre of gravity of the body, and not behind it, as 
 would be the case were the small of the back drawn in. 
 The entire body, except the legs, should be free from all 
 stiffness. The shoulders should be kept down and 
 drawn back, and the head raised. Many ladies, in the 
 present day, think it chic to turn out their elbows when 
 riding. I must confess that I prefer the old fashion 
 which ruled that daylight should not be seen between 
 a lady's arms and body when she was on horseback. 
 By keeping the elbows " in," the rider has much more 
 power over her animal than by turning them out. 
 
 In order to acquire the deservedly admired '* square " 
 seat, the lady, when riding, should practise the habit of 
 keeping her eyes fixed in a line between the horse's 
 ears. By doing so, she will also tend to save him from 
 a sore back, which is so often caused by the " drag " 
 
THE HANDS. 171 
 
 resulting from the rider not sitting square. The two 
 most common faults which prevent ladies holding them- 
 selves straight, are : (i) Bringing the right shoulder too 
 much forward ; and (2) sitting too much over on the off 
 side of the saddle, and then leaning over to the nearside 
 in order to preserve their balance. This fault is usually 
 practised when the stirrup is too short. If it be too long, 
 an indifferent rider may, when pressing on it, sit too much 
 to the near side, and then lean her body over to the off: a 
 position which will cause a " drag " on the saddle, which, 
 if continued, will soon give the horse a sore back. No 
 weight should be put on the stirrup, except when 
 trotting. 
 
 Action of the Hands.— The elbow, or elbows, accord- 
 ing as one or both hands are on the reins, should 
 work close to the sides, and be kept back so as to 
 allow the horse a long rein. When both hands are 
 used, they should be held about six inches apart, and 
 just clear of the right knee. The single hand ought to 
 work in a line with the centre of the horse's body, and 
 just clear of the right leg, on which it should not rest. 
 The wrists should be kept loose, and the hands allowed 
 to fall into an easy position with the knuckles at about 
 an angle of forty-five degrees to the ground. The hands, 
 
172 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 arms, and body should **give and take" in the order 
 named, with the action of the horse's head. Thus, a 
 sHght movement may be restrained by wrist play ; 
 while the arms and body may be required to aid the 
 hands in " pulling together " a fractious horse. 
 
 As regards the artistic manipulation of the reins I 
 have nothing to add to the remarks made on page 8 1. 
 
 How to Dismount. — A lady may dismount in the 
 following ways : 
 
 1. The groom stands in front of the horse and holds 
 his head up by the snaffle reins, close to the rings, or by 
 the cheekpieces of the headstall of the bridle, if a Pelham 
 be used. The gentleman in attendance takes the iady':5 
 foot out of the stirrup. She disengages, with the help 
 of her right hand, her right leg and skirt from the 
 pommel, sits sideways on the saddle, advances her 
 hands and rests them on those of the gentleman, who 
 raises his for her to take. She then slides lightly down 
 on to the ground. If the skirt be long, which it ought 
 not to be, she will have to gather it up in her hands 
 before giving them to the gentleman. 
 
 2. If no groom be at hand and the horse is unsteady, 
 and apt to kick, the gentleman may stand in front of him 
 and hold him. The lady then passes her reins into the 
 
DISMOUNTING. 173 
 
 right hand, catches hold of the mane with it, takes her 
 foot out of the stirrup, clears her right leg of the 
 pommel, and places her left hand on the raised arm 
 or hand of the gentleman, who, shifting his hold of the 
 horse, catches the near cheekpiece of the headstall with 
 his left hand, while he extends his hand to help the 
 lady. She, steadying herself with both hands, slips 
 down well to the front. If the horse is very unsteady, 
 she may, before dismounting, draw the reins through 
 the right hand while it is on the mane, taking care to 
 have the off rein tighter than the near one, so as to 
 prevent the horse from whipping round to the right 
 when she is descending. A lady cannot get off in this 
 manner, if the horse is, comparatively, a very high one. 
 
 3. When the rider has to dismount without any 
 assistance whatsoever, she should take her foot out of 
 the stirrup, remove her right leg from the pommel, place 
 her right hand on the third crutch — which she should 
 turn round if it be movable — and the left hand, which 
 holds the reins, on the pommel. She can now swing 
 herself down, and alight a little to the left front of the 
 horse's near fore leg, while retaining her grip on the 
 reins. 
 
 The Rider's Dress. — I am indebted to a few lady 
 
174 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 friends for the following remarks on this very important 
 subject. 
 
 A lady's riding dress should be as plain as possible, 
 without any floating ends, flyaway ribbons, curls or 
 feathers, and, above all things, no jewellery. If a watch 
 be necessary, it may be attached by a black cord, 
 and hidden away in a watch-pocket at the waistband. 
 The colour of the habit is a matter of choice, though 
 dark shades of blue or of green, or black itself, are 
 considered to be in the best taste. It should, for 
 hunting and work, be of stout rough Melton cloth, so 
 that it may not be torn in the event of charging through 
 a "hairy" gap, or riding fast through a narrow path 
 in covert. In India, and in other hot climates, some 
 suitably thin material may be used. The habit should 
 have no extra cloth, always supposing that the rider 
 is not very stout. Though fitting closely, it should 
 have no feeling or appearance of constraint or stiffness, 
 which would destroy all the graceful look the figure 
 possesses. The skirt should, when the rider is 
 mounted, be only just long enough to hide the 
 stirrup and boot, and should have its lower edge 
 in as nearly a horizontal line as possible. If properly 
 made, it will hang without requiring the dangerous 
 
DRESS. 
 
 elastic loop inside through which many ladies thrust 
 the right foot to keep the skirt down. If really 
 well made, it will require no such aid to retain it in 
 its place. The footstrap is often added by the wish 
 of the wearer, simply because either she, or the man 
 who puts her up, does not know how to arrange her 
 skirt, so as to make it hang as it ought to do. The 
 practice of weighting the bottom of the skirt with shot 
 is also unnecessary if a good tailor be employed. Some 
 ladies have a loop stitched to the inside of the skirt, 
 through which they pass the left foot, before putting it 
 into the stirrup. This loop serves to keep the skirt 
 down. However effective these loop arrangements may 
 be for park hacking, they are hardly applicable for 
 hunting, or rough work. Care should be taken that 
 the curved seam which is made in the skirt for the 
 right knee, should fit it exactly. " Your habit-maker 
 will, of course, put large hooks around the waist of 
 your bodice, and eyes of corresponding size attached 
 to the skirt ; so that both may be kept in their place " 
 {Mrs. Power O' Donoghue). To prevent the cloth wear- 
 ing out too fast, some ladies have that part of the 
 skirt, which passes over the pommel, lined with black 
 leather. It is just possible that the unyielding 
 
176 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 leather may prove dangerous in the event of a fall. 
 The same remark applies to the leather band used by 
 some ladies to line the bottom of the skirt, in order to 
 prevent it from getting torn. The skirt should be 
 just ample enough to allow perfect freedom, and no 
 more. It is well to have the habit cut away underneath, 
 on the inside, so as to allow the left foot free play. 
 Some ladies like the front of the jacket cut open at 
 the neck, like a gentleman's coat, with a neat scarf and 
 pin ; while others prefer it to be close up to the throat 
 with a simple, low, stand-up zvhite collar. I have to 
 thank Mrs. O'Donoghue for pointing out to me that 
 the former arrangement is objectionable, in cold weather, 
 from the fact of its causing the upper part of the chest 
 to be exposed, in a manner which might prove dangerous 
 to the fair wearer's health. I venture to think that the 
 open front is, from an artistic point of view, rather 
 " trying." 
 
 A neat arrangement is to have the collar attached 
 to a short " habit shirt," which does away with the 
 necessity of either pinning or stitching. Some ladies, 
 however, find that when the collar is attached in this 
 manner it has a tendency to ruck up. If it does so, a 
 tape may be attached to the habit shirt in front, and 
 
BJ^ESS. J 77 
 
 another to the stays. If these two tapes be tied to- 
 gether, the collar will remain stationary. Pins, if pos- 
 sible, should not be used with the riding dress. The 
 collar may be fastened with a stud. If a jacket with a 
 high collar be adopted, it should fit the neck accurately, 
 and should be cut a trifle low in front, so as to take away 
 the hard, stiff appearance which the collar of a jacket has 
 that is the same height all the way round. The sleeves 
 should be sufficiently loose at the shoulders to allow free 
 play to the arms, which is all-essential when crossing a 
 country, or in a moment of difficulty. The remaining 
 part of the sleeves should be tight. All ladies agree 
 that the ctiffs should be small, neat and perfectly plain. 
 They may be fixed by a button sewn on to the inside 
 of the sleeve, and attached to a corresponding button- 
 hole made in the centre of the cuff. This will keep 
 it from shifting, and allow a small white rim to be 
 visible. Or, a loop of thin elastic, about three-quarters of 
 an inch long, may be sewn inside each sleeve at the 
 back seam of each cuff of the jacket, so as to pass 
 around the solitaire or link of the linen cuff. A high- 
 necked, closely-fitting petticoat body with long sleeves 
 may be worn. The cuffs may then form a part of the 
 sleeves, or may be buttoned on to them ; while the collar 
 
178 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 may be sewn on to it. The buttons of the jacket 
 should be of black composition, black bone, or flat cloth ; 
 while the edge down the front should be a " raw-edge," 
 or plain and turned-in like that of a gentleman's coat. 
 There should be no braid, or trimming. The fitting of 
 the jacket must be trusted to the tailor, who ought not 
 to be handicapped by tight lacing ; for nothing spoils a 
 seat so much, or makes a rider look so out of place, as 
 "puUing in," and stays which are too long on the 
 hips. 
 
 If a spur be worn, the habit may be cut away on the 
 inside, in the manner I have already described. No 
 special arrangement is necessary for the spur, which 
 is generally quite severe enough, even when used through 
 a thick skirt. 
 
 Ridifig corsets should be made with as much care 
 to fit the figure, as the habit itself. They should be 
 moderately long from the waist upwards, and should not 
 reach the hips. Many ladies wear those absurd little 
 riding belts which are made something after the fashion 
 of Swiss bands. They are a mistake, as ladies now-a- 
 days are so accustomed to wear stays that they are 
 uncomJortable without the support which they afford ; 
 while anything that makes a rider ill-at-ease is to be 
 
DRESS, 179 
 
 avoided. Steel clasps should, on no account, be used, as 
 they are very dangerous in case of a fall. 
 
 Neat top boots and breeches are far more suitable for 
 any sort of riding than are ordinary boots and cloth 
 trousers, which are apt to wrinkle, ruck up, and, if not 
 amply long enough, to cause an unpleasant drag on the 
 knee. The breeclies should be made to fit well. They 
 should be loose on the thigh, should fit moderately 
 tight below the knee, and should be continued below 
 the swell of the calf of the leg, in order that they may 
 not be liable to work up. The last six inches of the 
 breeches may be made of silk, so as not to fill up the 
 boot unnecessarily. They should button from the knee 
 down. The buttons of the right leg should be on the 
 inside, while those of the left should be on the outside, 
 to prevent the limbs from being rubbed. Black cloth 
 breeches lined with chamois leather, and made as de- 
 scribed, may be used. Breeches made of buckskin are 
 very comfortable to wear. The only objection to white 
 is the possible awkwardness of their being seen in the 
 event of a fall. If they are properly beaten after being 
 cleaned, there will be no fear of the pipeclay showing 
 through the habit. 
 
 If trousers be worn, they should fit the boot neatly 
 
 N 2 
 
I So LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 being cut away a little over the instep, should fit 
 moderately close from the knee down, and should be 
 sufficiently long to obviate any unpleasant drag at the 
 knee. The leather straps may be made to button 
 in the ordinary manner, or may be sewn to the bottom 
 of the trousers, and may then be fastened or undone 
 by a buckle below the sole. This buckle arrangement 
 is a very neat and convenient one. If Wellington 
 boots be used, as they ought to be, with trousers, they 
 may be put on the latter d, la militaire, so as to allow 
 the fair wearer to get into both articles of attire at the 
 same time. This will be necessary if the trousers be 
 tight to the leg. 
 
 Petticoats are quite out of place on horseback. 
 
 Suspenders to the stockings will be found more com- 
 fortable than garters. 
 
 As the shape of the hat should conform to the style of 
 the lady's face and figure, the choice of one should be left 
 to the wearer's own good taste. The rather low-crowned 
 silk chimneypot becomes most ladies, and is de rigueur 
 for park riding. Some ladies like the round felt hat, 
 the " billycock," for rough wear, while the soft felt hat 
 harmonises admirably with some faces. It is well to 
 have the silk hat made to order. It should be padded on 
 
DRESS. i8i 
 
 the inside, so as to prevent it from slipping off. The 
 generality, I think, of good horsewomen, look upon the 
 low chimneypot as the best " all round " hat, and wear 
 nothing else. Much as I dislike the look of very shiny 
 silk hats, still if one is a bit worn and has been wet a few 
 times, it is a good plan, in order to make it look fresh 
 and render it almost impervious to rain, to smooth it over 
 with a silk handkerchief into which a very little sweet 
 oil has been rubbed with the finger. No trimming is 
 allowable, whatever form be adopted, though a black net 
 veil is always admissible. " Never wear a veil on horse- 
 back, except it be a black one, and nothing with a border 
 looks well. A plain band of spotted net, just reaching 
 below the nostrils, and gathered away into a neat knot 
 behind, is the most distingue. Do not wear anything 
 sufficiently long to cover the mouth, or it will cause you 
 inconvenience on wet and frosty days. For dusty roads, 
 a black gauze veil will be found useful, but avoid, as you 
 would poison, every temptation to wear even the faintest 
 scrap of colour on horseback. All such atrocities as blue 
 and green veils have happily long since vanished, but, 
 even still, a red bow, a gaudy flower stuck in the button- 
 hole, and, oh, horror of horrors ! a pocket-handkerchief 
 appearing at an opening in the bosom, looking like a 
 
i82 LADIES' RIDING. 
 
 miniature fomentation — these still occasionally shock 
 the eyes of sensitive persons, and cause us to marvel at 
 the wearer's bad taste. ... In fastening your veil, a 
 short steel pin with a round black head is best. The 
 steel slips easily through the leaf of the hat, and the head 
 being glossy and large, is easily found without groping 
 or delay whenever you may desire to divest yourself of 
 it " {Mrs. Power G Donoghiie). 
 
 The hat may be kept on by a piece of narrow flat 
 elastic, and loop under the hair at the back. Narrow 
 " lutestring " ribbon strings are an advisable addition, as 
 they don't " give " as much as the elastic, which is sewn to 
 the lining of the hat a little in front of the strings. The 
 hair should be plainly and tightly twisted up in a small 
 knot, and securely fixed just at the nape of the neck. 
 
 The boots may have a long low heel, so as to prevent 
 the stirrup catching on the instep. It is well to have the 
 waist of the sole of the boot made broad, for although a 
 lady does not ride with her foot home in the stirrup, still 
 a narrow-waisted sole will be liable to hurt the foot 
 during a long ride, and is not suitable for walking. The 
 boots may be made stout and comfortable. A strap of 
 about an inch in length, provided with a buttonhole, 
 should be fixed at the back of each boot so as to 
 
DRESS. 
 
 183 
 
 be attached to a button sewn on to the cloth of the 
 breeches, in order to prevent the boots working down. 
 
 Gloves, which should not be tight, may be made of 
 dog or doe skin. They should be long in the fingers 
 and wrists, and should be provided with buttons, for 
 gloves which slip on, slip off just as easily. 
 
( i84 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 Principles of Bitting — Snaffles — Curb Bits — Bridle and Saddle 
 Gear — How to put on the Bridle and Saddle— Choice of a Bit. 
 
 Principles of Bitting. 
 
 The bridle is used for two objects — (i) to restrain, 
 guide, turn, and back the horse ; and (2) to enable 
 him to carry his rider in the best possible manner. 
 
 As the greater portion of the weight of the horse's 
 body has, on account of his conformation, to be borne 
 by his fore legs, they are specially constructed for fulfil- 
 ling their office as supporters ; while the hind legs, 
 though ill-adapted for carrying a burden, are admirably 
 designed for propelling the body onward. Hence we 
 may assume that the rider should sit well forward on the 
 horse's back. Were the animal to continue standing 
 still, he would naturally bear his burden best by the 
 rider sitting quite motionless. The fore and hind limbs. 
 
PRINCIPLES OF BITTING. 185 
 
 however, have not alone different weight-carrying capa- 
 bilities, but during motion they respectively bear it 
 better at one period of the stride, than at another. 
 Thus, the hind quarters support it best when they are 
 well under the body ; but, when they are extended to 
 the rear at the conclusion of their stroke, weight placed 
 far back will most materially impede the action of their 
 muscles that draw the hind legs forward and arch the 
 loins. These muscles, I may observe, are much less 
 powerful than are those which give the hind legs their 
 backward sweep. The fore legs, naturally, " act " to the 
 greatest advantage when they are relieved of weight at 
 the moment they are being raised from the ground. 
 The spinal column, from the head to the point of the 
 tail, accommodates itself to the movements of the 
 limbs. Thus, when the hind legs are thrown to the 
 rear, in the gallop, the neck and head are extended. 
 When, on the contrary, the head is ''brought in," 
 and the neck arched, the shoulder-blades go back 
 and the fore legs go forward. Hence it would be 
 advantageous for the rider's weight to be moved slightly 
 to the front when the horse straightens his neck, and 
 to be shifted a little back when he brings it in. The 
 bridle enables this "give and take" action to be 
 
1 86 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 performed with ease and precision. Were it absent, it 
 would be extremely difficult for the rider to accommo- 
 date his weight to the movements of the horse. With 
 its aid, however, the play of the animal's head and 
 neck gives " the time " to the rider, who has simply to 
 " catch a good hold " of his horse's head, keep his arms 
 and body pliable, and allow the horse to do the rest. 
 The displacement of weight is of course effected by 
 the slight yielding of the body, without any shifting of 
 the seat in the saddle. To be convinced that conform- 
 ing to the movements of the horse renders his task 
 easier, we need but compare the difference in the way he 
 carries a good rider, to that which he travels under one 
 who " sits like a sack." The horse himself, by bending 
 his neck, accommodates the weight of his head, and that 
 part of his neck which is beyond the direct support of 
 his fore legs, to the movements of his limbs. The fore- 
 going remarks have been made with special reference to 
 the canter and gallop ; in the trot, also, the horse, to go 
 fast and well, must, as every horseman knows, " take a 
 good hold of his bit," so that the weight of the rider 
 may be brought well forward. 
 
 I may remark, in passing, that at the gallop, the hind 
 feet quit the ground very nearly, though not quite. 
 
PRINCIPLES OF BITTING. 187 
 
 at the same time ; while there is a marked interval 
 between the moments at which the fore feet are respec- 
 tively raised. 
 
 The two essentials, then, for good bitting, are (i) that 
 the horse should be under control ; and (2) that he 
 should " go up to his bridle " — in other words, that he 
 should allow the bit to press on his mouth without 
 flinching from it, though he should obey the pressure 
 according as the rider varies it. If, on the contrary, the 
 horse be afraid to " face the bit," the rider will be unable 
 to " catch hold of his head," and to accommodate him- 
 self to the movements of his mount ; while the animal 
 will be afraid to extend its head and neck, and will 
 consequently check the backward sweep of its hind 
 quarters. From the bent position of the neck, the fore 
 legs, however, will have the utmost freedom. The conse- 
 quence of this constrained carriage of the body will be, 
 that the horse will keep his hind legs too much under 
 him, and will raise his fore legs too high ; in fact, he will 
 be '' over collected." Fashionable harness horses, which 
 are driven with severe bits that they are afraid to " go up 
 to," and whose heads are drawn back by gag bearing 
 reins, furnish us with an excellent instance of this 
 "over collection." Being well on their haunches, they 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 bend their knees and lift their fore legs in the most 
 approved manner. The better they '' stand " being " hit 
 and held," the higher their action, and, consequently the 
 higher their price. This style may be very suitable for a 
 three or four mile drive in the park or in town, during 
 the season, but it is not " business " from a horseman's 
 point of view, as it entails a waste of muscular power. 
 We may see a similar needless expenditure of force, in 
 the case of a riding horse which will not face his bit, 
 especially, if the man on his back endeavours to keep him 
 " up to it," by the pressure of his legs, or by the aid of 
 the spurs. It is quite right that a trooper who may be 
 called upon to engage an adversary on horseback, with 
 sword or lance, should be able to collect his charger, so 
 as to make him turn, circle, or change with the utmost 
 quickness and precision, by the mere indication of the 
 bridle hand. We, however, who desire to ride like 
 " workmen,"' should never use any bit which our horses 
 will not face. 
 
 In order that the horse may go up to his bit, its 
 pressure must be applied in a direction opposite to that 
 in which his head is directed, as with the ordinary 
 snaffle. If the horse be hurt by a tight curbchain 
 pressing on a sensitive part of his lower jaw, or by a 
 
SNAFFLES. 189 
 
 high port pressing against his palate, he may be cowed 
 into submission, but he will not catch hold of his bit. 
 We shall now consider the construction and adjustment 
 of bits which horses will go up to. We need not 
 trouble ourselves by trying to devise any special means 
 of restraint for pullers, for the ordinary snaffle or curb, 
 properly made and properly put on, is sufficient to control 
 almost any horse, provided a good rider has hold of 
 the reins. Although a fine horseman may be able to 
 steer his mount in fair form with a severe bit, the 
 inexperienced rider will fare infinitely worse with it, on 
 a difficult horse, than he would do were the bit an easy 
 one to the animal's mouth. 
 
 Snaffles. 
 
 The action of the snaffle is to restrain the horse 
 by pressure on his tongue, bars of his mouth (the 
 part of his gums which are bare of teeth between the 
 tushes and grinders), and the corners of his mouth. 
 Ovv^ing to the snaffle being jointed, the tongue receives 
 but little pressure. When the horse carries his head in 
 a more or less perpendicular manner, the bars off*er the 
 chief resistance ; but when he extends his head, whether 
 he ra'ses or lowers it, the pressure falls on the corners of 
 
I go 
 
 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 the mouth, and, possibly, in part, on the first back teeth. 
 When a snaffle is smooth and sufficiently large, it fulfils, 
 with all ordinary horses, every condition, from a " work- 
 man's " point of view, required in a perfect bit. If the 
 horse be a hard puller, a severe snaffle may be em- 
 ployed : this, however, is not generally advisable, for 
 the greater number of pullers that would resent, by 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 going all the faster, the punishment inflicted by a thin 
 or twisted snaffle, would obey the forcible indication 
 afforded by a smooth large mouthpiece which did not 
 pain them. As a horse is far stronger than his rider, 
 we must rely on easily understood indications rather 
 than on brute force to control him. 
 
 There is a great deal of truth in the old saying that 
 if a horse cannot be held with a snaffle, no other bit will 
 hold him. 
 
SNAFFLES. 
 
 191 
 
 In turning the horse, the snaffle bridle acts by the 
 korn (cheekpiece) of the bit pressing against the side 
 of the mouth, and also by the headstall (the leather 
 work by which the bit is attached to the head) pulling 
 the head round. 
 
 The following are the chief varieties of snaffles : — 
 
 1st. The plain smooth snaffle (see Fig, 17). — This is 
 by far the best for general use. 
 
 2nd. The twisted siiaffle. — I do not at all fancy this 
 bit. If severity be required, I think a chain snaffle is 
 preferable to it in every way. 
 
 3rd. The thill racing snaffle {^q^ Fig. 18), either twisted 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 or smooth. I cannot understand why this variety was 
 ever invented, unless it was for the object of saving two 
 
192 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 or three ounces of weight. I have always found that 
 it h^s a great tendency to make horses pull. The 
 racing snaffles of the present day are not nearly so 
 thin as those which were formerly used. 
 
 4th. The chahi snaffle, in which the mouthpiece 
 consists of a chain of several links. This is an 
 admirable bit for horses which require some " holding," 
 for it may be made easy or severe to the mouth as the 
 rider chooses. To increase its severity, the chain may 
 be twisted before being put into the horse's mouth. 
 For tender-mouthed horses, the chain may be covered 
 with three or four turns of washleather sewn on to it. 
 Two chains, one above the other, are sometimes used 
 instead of one. 
 
 5th. The double-ringed snaffle, which is similar to the 
 ordinary bridoon of a double bridle, except that two 
 rings are placed on the mouthpiece, inside those to 
 which the reins are connected, for attachment to the 
 headstall of the bridle. It is in very common use 
 among harness horses. For saddle work, the rings of 
 the mouthpiece to which the reins are fixed may be 
 provided with horns like those of an ordinary snaffle. 
 This is by far the best kind of snaffle for turning a 
 horse, for the pull of either rein falls directly on the 
 
THE GAG SNAFFLE. i93 
 
 opposite side of the horse's mouth, without being taken 
 by the headstall. A moderately tight noseband, by 
 closing the mouth and thus causing the horns of the 
 snaffle to act, to greater advantage, against the side of 
 the jaw opposite to which either rein is pulled, will 
 materially increase the turning effect of this bit. The 
 native polo players of Munipur, in which country polo 
 has been the national game for centuries, all use the 
 double-ringed snaffle with their matchless ponies. 
 
 6th. The gag snaffle is used with two reins, one 
 being attached in the ordinary manner, while the other 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 is a continuation of a separate headstall, the cheekpieces 
 of which are rounded, and pass downwards freely through 
 holes in the rings of the snaffle — instead of being buckled 
 or sewn on to them — and from thence to the rider's 
 hands. When the gag reins are pulled, the bit is forced 
 against the corners of the horse's mouth, which makes 
 him draw up his head. This bit is consequently very 
 
 O 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 useful with horses that "bore" their heads down, and 
 with buck-jumpers. It may be used as a bridoon to 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 the double bridle (see Fig. 19). Fig. 20 represents a 
 Pelham made for gag reins. 
 
 7th. The dotLble-mouthed snaffle (Fig. 21) has two 
 
THE NEWMARKET SNAFFLE. 195 
 
 mouthpieces which respectively have joints placed more 
 to one side than to the other, so that, if the joint of the 
 upper mouthpiece be more to the near side than to the 
 off, that of the lower one will be more to the off than to 
 the near, and vice versa. It forms a very severe bit, as 
 it presses directly on the gums. It should not be used 
 with a tight noseband, for opening out somewhat in 
 the form of a W when the reins are drawn tight, it will 
 then be apt to hurt the roof of the mouth. 
 
 8th. The Newmarket snaffle has attached to its rings 
 a noseband, whose length can be altered, so as to divide 
 the pressure derived from the pull of the reins, between 
 the nose and the lower jaw, or to throw it exclusively 
 on one or on the other. There are side straps attached 
 to the headstall of the bridle, which prevent the nose- 
 band from falling too far down. It forms a very nice 
 bit for a horse with a tender mouth. 
 
 Or, it is a double-ringed snaffle, which has attached to 
 its inner rings a noseband, that is kept in position by 
 pieces of leather sewn round the rings, and under the 
 cheek ends. When one pair of reins is taken up, its 
 action is that of an ordinary double-ringed snaffle ; 
 while the other, when drawn tight, causes all the 
 pressure to fall on the horse's nose. It then forms 
 
 O 2 
 
196 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 a severe and effectual check to a hard puller or 
 bolter. 
 
 The American snaffle, Mr. F. V. NichoUs, saddler, of 
 2 Jermyn Street, S.W., suggests to me, being a 
 most comfortable bit, might be used, with advantage, 
 in this country. Its mouthpiece is of hardened 
 indiarubber, which is tested to bear a very severe 
 strain. It is in general use for match trotting in the 
 States. 
 
 The sazvmo7ith bridoon (see Fig. 22) may be attached 
 to a snaffle in the event of the horse pulling very hard. 
 It is a very severe form of that bit. 
 
 The TattersalVs leading bit, which has a circular 
 mouthpiece for leading horses, may be added to the 
 foreo-oing list. It is an excellent bit for this purpose, as 
 it exerts an equal pressure on both sides of the mouth, 
 in whichever direction the rein be pulled. 
 
 Running reins consist of a single long rein, which 
 passes through the rings of the snaffle, and buckles on to 
 the D's or staples in front of the saddle. This arrange- 
 
CURBS. 
 
 197 
 
 ment keeps the horse's head down, and nearly doubles 
 the power of the rider. 
 
 Curb Bits. 
 The following is a back and side view of a properly 
 shaped curb bit, drawn to a quarter full size. 
 
 Fig. 23. 
 
 The names of the different parts of the curb are as 
 follows : 
 
 a d and hi. 
 
 . Cheeks of bit. 
 
 a b and h i . 
 
 . Upper arms of cheeks of bit 
 
 b d and / / . 
 
 . . Lower „ „ „ 
 
 bi , . . 
 
 . Mouthpiece. 
 
 efg ... 
 
 . . Port. 
 
 b e and g i . 
 
 Cannons. 
 
 c and k . . 
 
 . . Lipstrap rings. 
 
 Curds are bits in which the principle of the lever 
 is utilised for affording the rider a certain amount of 
 mechanical advantage in restraining the horse. 
 
198 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 I may remark that the term bit is very often restricted 
 to curbs. I have, however, in the following pages, used 
 it, for convenience sake, as a general term for either 
 curb or snaffle. A double bridle is the expression used 
 to signify one which has both a curb and a snaffle. It 
 is also called a bit and bridoon. 
 
 A curb bridle is placed on the horse's head in the 
 manner shown in Fig. 31, page 229. 
 
 The rings of the upper arms of the cheeks of the bit 
 are attached to the checkpieces of the headstall, which 
 is the term applied to the leather part of the bridle 
 that goes on the horse's head. 
 
 The curbchain lies under the lower jaw, and is at- 
 tached to the upper rings of the bit. 
 
 The lipsti^ap, which passes through a ring placed for 
 that purpose on the curbchain, serves to prevent the 
 curbchain from shifting upwards, and also keeps the 
 cheeks of the bit from swinging forward and becoming 
 reversed. It also helps to prevent a tricky horse from 
 catching the cheekpiece of the bit wdth his lower lip, or 
 with his teeth. 
 
 The depression in the lower jaw, in which the curb- 
 chain should rest, is called the chin groove. 
 
 Action of the cnrb. — The following pressures are, when 
 
ACTION OF THE CURB. 
 
 199 
 
 the reins of the curb are drawn tight, exerted in the 
 manner shown by arrowheads in Fig. 24 : 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 (i) By the mouthpiece on the bars of the lower jaw, 
 and on the tongue. 
 
 (2) On the chin groove. 
 
 (3) On the poll of the horse's head, over which the 
 headstall passes. 
 
 (4) The pull of the reins. 
 
 If we refer to page 188, we will see that the pressure 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 of the mouthpiece (i) is the only really legitimate one 
 for restraining the horse. 
 
 The pressure of the curbchain (2) on the chin groove 
 should be rendered as little irksome to the animal as 
 possible, for any pain it may inflict on him will be in 
 the direction in which he is going, and hence will only 
 restrain him by making him afraid to go up to his bit, 
 while it will have the natural tendency to cause him 
 to throw up his head in the endeavour to save his 
 jaw from injury. That curbchains hurt horses, in the 
 manner described, is patent to any one who may have 
 seen how fretful and unmanageable curb bits render many 
 high-spirited animals that will go quietly in a plain 
 snaffle. They " chuck up their heads " in the endeavour 
 to save the lower jaw from the painful pressure of the 
 curbchain, while we will frequently find the part against 
 which it bears to be galled and bruised. Not uncom- 
 monly, in old standing cases, a bony deposit is formed 
 on the lower jaw, as a result of continued inflammation. 
 Even if we succeed in getting the animal under control, 
 by inflicting pain on him with the curbchain, we shall do 
 so by " cowing " him ; in other words, we make him afraid 
 to "go up to his bit," and shall, consequently, render 
 him neither safe nor efficient to ride. The habits of 
 
PULL ON HEADSTALL. 201 
 
 " chucking up the head," and not going up to the bit, 
 so seriously interfere with the comfort and safety of the 
 rider, and with the usefulness of the animal, that it 
 behoves every owner to avoid, by attending to the 
 proper bitting of his horses, the possibility of their 
 contracting these vices. 
 
 The downward pull on the headstall (3) should be 
 obviated as much as it is in our power to do, because, 
 by pulling the poll down, it interferes with the free 
 action of the horse's head and neck, and, consequently, 
 with the movements of his limbs. In practice, we find 
 that the employment of a curb has a tendency to make 
 a horse gallop "round," in other words to bend his 
 knees too much. Although this may be disregarded, 
 when perfect control, rather than speed, is demanded, 
 it has served to virtually banish curb bits from racing 
 stables. 
 
 In the Chifney bit (see Fig. 29), the downward pull 
 on the headstall is altogether done away with. To 
 obviate this undesirable pull. Lord Thurlow invented 
 a bit (see Fig. 25), which differs from the ordinary one 
 by having the eyes of the upper arms of the cheeks 
 made oval-shaped to the rear. 
 
 If we examine the under surface of the lower jaw, we 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 shall find that the bone at the chin groove (see Fig. 24) 
 is smooth and rounded, while, immediately above it, 
 the edges of the branches of the jaw are sharp and 
 sensitive. Hence we may conclude that the curbchain 
 should remain stationary in this groove, as it is the only 
 convenient spot on which the chain can press without 
 paining the horse. 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 I am indebted to Major Dwyer (' Seats and Saddles ') 
 for the knowledge of the principle that " the curbchain 
 must lie in the curb groove, without any tendency to 
 mount up out of it on to the sharp bones of the lower 
 jaw." 
 
 As the bars are more sensitive than the tongue, the 
 
CONSTRUCTION OF CURBS, 203 
 
 port (see Fig. 23), has been devised, to throw more 
 pressure on the former than on the latter, in order to 
 increase the severity of the bit. 
 
 Principles to be observed in the construction and adjust- 
 ment of curbs. — (i.) The longer the upper arms of the 
 cheeks of the bit (see Fig. 23) are, the greater will be 
 the downward pull on the headstall of the bridle, and 
 the more tendency will the curbchain have to mount up 
 on the sharp and sensitive edges of the branches of the 
 jaw. If, however, the upper arms be too short, they 
 will allow the cheeks of the bit to come in a line with 
 the reins, when the horse pulls, and, consequently, will 
 do away with all the mechanical advantage to be 
 derived from the employment of a curb. I have found 
 that, for ordinary horses, it is advisable to fix this length, 
 measuring from the lower edge of the mouthpiece (on 
 which the upper arms of the cheek revolve) to the 
 upper ring of the cheek, at ij inches (see Fig. 26). The 
 measurement is usually taken from the centre of the 
 mouthpiece, a plan which does not allow for the thick- 
 ness of this steel bar. It is evident, however, that the 
 thicker the mouthpiece, the longer does the upper arm 
 virtually become. 
 
 (2.) Having now fixed the length of the upper arm of 
 
204 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 the cheek, we may, to obtain increased power, lengthen 
 the lower arm, as we may find convenient — say, to four 
 and a half inches. 
 
 (3.) The width of the mouthpiece should accurately 
 correspond with that of the horse's mouth, so that it may 
 not pinch the lips by being too tight, nor be liable to 
 slip from side to side by being too loose. In the latter 
 case, the horse is apt to acquire the habit of " boring " to 
 one side, by getting one of the cheeks of the bit close 
 up against the side of his mouth, which will cause the 
 port to become shifted over to the other side. He 
 will then, owing to the absence of the port, be able 
 to relieve the gum from pressure on the side to which 
 he bores, by interposing his tongue between it and the 
 mouthpiece. When the mouthpiece fits accurately, the 
 port will remain in the centre of the mouth, so that 
 there will be an " even feeling " on both sides. 
 
 (4.) If we wish to render the bit less severe, we may 
 lower the port, so as to allow the tongue to take some of 
 the pressure. The port should on no account be more 
 than one and a quarter inches high, lest it might hurt the 
 horse by pressing against his palate — a form of punish- 
 ment which, I need hardly point out, is opposed to the 
 very first principles of good bitting. 
 
CURBS. 
 
 205 
 
 (5.) The mouthpiece should be placed low down in the 
 mouth, so that the curbchain may not have any tendency 
 to slip upwards out of the chin groove, and that the 
 downward pull on the headstall may be obviated as 
 much as possible. 
 
 (6.) The curbchain should be sufficiently loose to 
 allow a certain amount of ''play." 
 
 Agreeably to the foregoing principles, I have drawn 
 the following sketch of a curb bit for a horse with an 
 ordinary sized mouth. 
 
 , Ficr. 26. 
 
 {Drawn to 5 full size. 
 
 The measurements are given in inches. The maximum 
 height of the port is shown by dotted lines. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Width of mouthpiece . . . . . , . . 42 to 4I 
 Height of-port not to exceed [^Diuyer] . . . . ij 
 
2o6 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Width of port \\ 
 
 Length of upper arm of cheek, measured from 
 
 lower part of mouthpiece to ring , . . . i^ 
 
 Length of lower arm of cheek, about . . . . 4I 
 
 Keeping in view the principle that the ciirbchain 
 should on no account hurt the horse's chin, we should 
 select one which will lie flat and smooth, in preference 
 to one with large and few links. The chain may be 
 covered with leather, or there may be a leather strap 
 placed between it and the horse's jaw. Instead of a 
 curbchain, a flat piece of bridle leather, furnished with a 
 few links at each end, may be used. " It is very clear 
 that the narrower the chain is made, the more likely is 
 it to cause pain, which is just what we want to avoid, 
 and we should therefore endeavour to make it as broad 
 as possible. The vulgar notion of a sharp curb, is, as 
 the reader perceives, a monstrous absurdity" [Major 
 Dwyer). The curbchain should not be too broad, for it 
 would, then, be liable to hurt the sharp edges of the 
 branches of the lower jaw. 
 
 The curb bit which has a sliding mouthpiece (see 
 Fig. 27) appears to me to be wrong in principle, for, if 
 placed so as to have a right position when the reins are 
 drawn tight, the mouthpiece will knock against the tushes 
 
SLIDING MOUTHPIECE. 
 
 207 
 
 when the reins are slackened. The horse will continu- 
 ally play with this sliding mouthpiece when the snaffle 
 only is used, or when both reins are loose : hence, in these 
 cases, its presence seems to keep the mouth *' lively." 
 But when the curb reins are taken up, this mouthpiece 
 will act the same as that of any other curb, and will 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 have no up-and-down play whatsoever. This bit, never- 
 theless, suits many horses better than the ordinary made 
 curb — seemingly, from the fact that the upper arms of 
 the checkpieces are generally much shorter, and, conse- 
 quently, more correct in length, than those of the 
 other, whose upper arms — measured from the lower 
 part of the mouthpiece to the rings — are, usually, quite 
 
2o8 
 
 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 2\ inches long. A horse, perhaps, may not pull as 
 much against this sliding mouthpiece as against a fixed 
 one. My only objection to it is that it cannot be placed 
 sufficiently low in the mouth, without interfering with 
 the tushes. It might do all right with mares, although, 
 if placed sufficiently low, it would look bad. 
 
 Pelhams. — The Pelham is a combination of the curb 
 and snaffle in various forms. Its action, when it has a 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 jointed mouthpiece (see Fig. 28}, is very faulty, for, when 
 the curb reins are drawn tight, the cheeks of the bit jam 
 against the sides of the mouth, by reason of the joint which 
 is at the centre of the mouthpiece, whose width, instead 
 of exactly corresponding with that of the horse's mouth. 
 
PELHAMS. 209 
 
 varies at every touch of the rider's hands on the reins. 
 With a straight bar mouthpiece, it rests chiefly on the 
 tongue, and is then a very easy bit ; while with a port 
 and unjointed mouthpiece the Pelham will act as an 
 ordinary curb. The Hanoverian Pelham is a powerful 
 form of bit It has a jointed port attached to short 
 " cannons," on which are fixed rollers thai rest on the 
 bars of the horse's mouth. Many persons consider it 
 very effective with a puller, and that, for park hacking, 
 or for showing off a horse's paces, it is one of the best 
 bits in light hands. 
 
 Pelhams have a marked tendency to make horses carry 
 their heads too low, by reason of the strong downward 
 pull they exert on the headstall of the bridle to which 
 they are attached. This appears to be owing to the 
 presence of the joint in the centre of the mouthpiece 
 and to the fact that the upper arms of their cheeks are 
 generally far too long. 
 
 With some riders, this tendency may be partly due to 
 the habit they have of riding on both reins, which, with 
 the Pelham, on account of the action of the snaffle reins, 
 causes the mouthpiece to be drawn up towards the 
 corners of the mouth, and the curbchain to work up on 
 the branches of the lower jaw. The forward action of 
 
 P 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 the upper arms of the cheeks of the bit will, then, be 
 
 almost entirely arrested. 
 
 Pelhams maybe used with " stargazers," or with horses 
 
 which throw their heads up, supposing that, for fashion's 
 
 sake, a curb of some sort must be employed in preference 
 
 to a snaffle. 
 
 The Chifney bit. — The celebrated Sam Chifney, who 
 
 fell into disgrace with the racing public, on account of 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 having been suspected of intentionally losing a race 
 at Newmarket on the 20th October, 1791, when riding 
 the then Prince of Wales's horse, Escape, invented this 
 form of curb (Fig. 29), in which the objectionable down- 
 ward pull on the headstall is entirely dispensed with, for 
 its headstall is attached to short arms, that revolve on 
 
BRIDLES. Ill 
 
 the mouthpiece, independently of the cheeks of the bit, 
 to which the curbchain is hooked. 
 
 The Chifney bit is very severe, and is inappHcable for 
 most horses that are ridden by men with indifferent 
 hands, for its curbchain alone resists the forward action 
 of the upper arms of the cheeks of the bit. Thus, the 
 whole of the pressure falls on the gums, tongue and 
 under part of the lower jaw, while none of it is taken, as 
 with the ordinary curb, by the animal's poll, which, I 
 need hardly say, is not as sensitive as the parts just 
 named. 
 
 Bridle and Saddle Gear. 
 
 The names of the different parts of a bridle are as 
 follows : — 
 
 The crownpiece, which passes over the horse's poll. 
 
 The cheekpieces, which connect the crownpiece with 
 the bit. 
 
 The throat latch (usually pronounced " throat lash "), 
 which is a part of the crownpiece, and serves to prevent 
 the bridle from slipping over the horse's head by passing 
 under his throat. 
 
 The forehead band, browband, or front, which goes 
 across the horse's forehead. 
 
 P 2 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 A headstall is the name given to the foregoing leather 
 Avork, when in a collected form, and to which is attached 
 the snaffle, the bit and bridoon, the Chifney bit, or the 
 Pelhain. 
 
 The lipstrap serves to keep the curbchain in its place. 
 
 The reins are connected to the rings of the curb or 
 snaffle. 
 
 The billets are the ends of the reins, or of the cheek- 
 pieces of the bridle, which buckle on to the bit. 
 
 Loops or keepers serve, when buckles are used, to 
 retain the ends of the billets. 
 
 Stops are used with reins which have buckles, to pre- 
 vent the martingale rings catching on the buckles. 
 
 A bridoon head is the headstall of the snaffle of a 
 double bridle. It has neither throat latch nor forehead 
 band. 
 
 Headstalls. — It is considered to be " the thing " to 
 have the headstall sewn, and not buckled, on to the bit. 
 This plan undoubtedly looks far neater than the other, 
 although it is somewhat inconvenient to the groom when 
 he wants to clean the bridle. Besides this, it does not 
 admit of the bit being readily changed. These objec- 
 tions can, of course, have no weight with a man who has 
 as many different bridles and bits as he may choose 
 
^BUCKLES. 213 
 
 to use ; but they are most valid ones to a horse owner 
 who is obhged to study usefulness rather than show, or 
 who may not have a saddler's shop at hand, from which 
 to procure, at a moment's notice, whatever gear he may 
 require. If he had a spare easy curb bit, and wanted to 
 put it on instead of a severe one, which was already 
 attached to the bridle, or if he wished to use a chain 
 snaffle, instead of a plain smooth one, it would be most 
 inconvenient, if he had no other headstall, to be obliged 
 to have the stitches ripped up, and the headstall sewn 
 on afresh. For country or colonial work, we may often 
 want to use the headstall of a snaffle for a double bridle, 
 and vice versa. 
 
 Double buckles on a bridle are the most useful kind, 
 as they do away w^ith the necessity of having " loops " 
 for the " billets," which is the term applied to the straps 
 that pass through the buckles (see Fig. 32, page 233). 
 
 The headstall of a curb bit may be attached by 
 means of plated "spring billets," which look neater, can 
 be detached in an instant, and will allow greater freedom 
 to the forward action of the cheek of the bit, than it 
 would have were it connected by leather. 
 
 Forehead Bands, Browbands, or Fronts, are gene- 
 rally made of plain leather, though some people con- 
 
214 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 sider a covering of silk ribbon, or patent coloured 
 leather, a relief. The browband of a racing bridle 
 may, appropriately, be of the owner's colours. 
 
 The Throat Latch may have a buckle on the near 
 side, or may have one also on the off side. 
 
 A Lipstrap should always be used with a curb, for, in 
 its absence, a horse may, at any moment, when galloping, 
 throw his head up, and reverse the position of the cheeks 
 of the bit, thus depriving the rider of proper control over 
 him. If, however, when he brings his head down again, 
 the rider, at the same time, slackens the reins, the 
 cheeks of the bit will fall back into their usual position. 
 Besides this, some horses have a trick of catching the 
 cheek, on one side, with their lip, and then boring down 
 to that side ; a practice which the presence of the lip- 
 strap will prevent. Lipstraps are generally made of 
 leather and provided with a buckle. They sometimes 
 consist of a light steel chain which has " spring hooks " 
 at each end. I like the latter arrangement, as being 
 simple and convenient, although some consider it only 
 fit for the bit of a lady's horse. 
 
 Reins. — Having reins thick, thin, broad, or narrow, is 
 a point which the rider should decide for himself. 
 Almost all good horsemen like them to be pliable, and 
 
REINS. 
 
 moderately thin and broad. The only real advantage of 
 having the reins sewn instead of buckled on to the 
 bit, is that it dispenses with the necessity of having 
 " stops " on the reins which pass through the rings of 
 the martingale (see Fig. 32, page 233). Though it looks 
 better, it is inconvenient, as it does not admit of a 
 change of bits. 
 
 With a double bridle, I prefer having both reins of 
 equal breadth, instead of having the curb rein narrow, 
 and the snaffle rein broad, as is frequently the practice. 
 The buckle at the centre of the one which passes 
 through the rings of the martingale, will serve to distin- 
 guish it from the other. The " feeling " in the hands 
 wdth reins of equal substance, is far more pleasant than 
 when they are of different sizes. When the reins 
 are held according to a uniform method, there will not 
 be the slightest possibility of the rider becoming con- 
 fused as to their respective identity. 
 
 In order to prevent the reins slipping through the 
 fingers with a puller, pieces of leather, about a quarter 
 of an inch broad, and as long as the width of the reins, 
 are sometimes sewn across the inside part of the reins, 
 at intervals of three or four inches. With gloves on, I 
 don't think there is any need of this arrangement ; while, 
 
2i6 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 without them, a Httle resin rubbed on the hands will 
 give all the " hold " the rider may require. The presence 
 of these cross bits of leather interferes somewhat with 
 the free handling of the reins, especially when length- 
 ening or shortening them. 
 
 If the reins which pass through the rings of the 
 martingale be not sewn on to the bit, they should be 
 provided with " stops," so as to prevent the martin- 
 gale rings from being caught on the buckles (see 
 page 233). 
 
 Nosebands. — An ordinary noseband, buckled tight, 
 will considerably increase the power of either curb or 
 snaffle. When the horse is turned to the right or to the 
 left, it allows the horns of the snaffle, on the side from 
 which he is turned, to act in the most advantageous 
 manner against the side of his upper and lower jaws. It 
 also causes him to bring his head lower and bend his 
 neck more than he would do without it, because it 
 deprives him of the power of yielding with the lower jaw 
 only. With the curb, it prevents him from shifting the 
 bit about in his mouth ; and also, when he is being 
 turned, it increases the power of the rider in pulling 
 his head round, as it fixes his upper and lower jaws 
 together, and thus deprives him of the side " play " of 
 
NOSEBANDS. 217 
 
 the lower jaw on which the curb bears. Major Dwyer 
 remarks, that it prevents the horse catching the bit with 
 his back teeth. 
 
 The cavasson noseband is the neatest and most useful 
 kind. It may either have a separate headpiece, similar 
 to the " bridoon head " of a double bridle, or have cheek- 
 pieces which fasten on to the buckles to which the crown- 
 piece of the bridle is attached. It can then be raised or 
 lowered as required, and may be used with either snaffle 
 or curb. 
 
 A Bncephalns noseband is merely an arrangement 
 for tightening and loosening a noseband whose ends 
 pass round the lower jaw and buckle on to the upper 
 rings of the cheeks of the curb. 
 
 In order to increase the severity of the noseband with 
 a standing martingale, a flat piece of flexible steel, 
 or a curbchain, may be sewn up inside the front part of 
 the noseband. This arrangement might be useful with 
 a determined rearer. 
 
 A noseband may be used, with advantage, to take off 
 the plainness of a horse's head. 
 
 Martingales. — The uses of the running martingale are 
 — (i) to aid the hands and arms in keeping the horse's 
 head down ; (2) to increase the power of the rider in 
 
2i8 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 in keeping his head straight ; (3) to retain the reins in 
 their place, and to prevent either of them from getting 
 over the neck. With the first object in view, the 
 martingale may be adjusted so as to allow the 
 direction of the pull of the reins to be in a line 
 with the top of the withers. With horses which keep 
 their heads sufficiently low, the martingale should be 
 somewhat longer, so that it may not cramp the action 
 of the head in any way. A rider, by an extra ex- 
 penditure of strength, may keep his hands low enough 
 to be able to dispense with a martingale for holding 
 the horse's head down, but, do what he chooses, he will 
 not have the same power for keeping him straight as he 
 would have with one on. Of course I am referring to 
 free, " flippant " goers, and not to " slugs." 
 
 I strongly advocate the use of the running martingale. 
 
 Martingales for yearlings are frequently provided at 
 Newmarket with a long triangular leather strap which 
 connects the sidepieces together, so that the young one 
 cannot catch his head in them. The apex of the 
 triangle, of course, points down, while the base, which is 
 about six inches broad, reaches to within a few inches of 
 the animal's jaw. 
 
 A not very efficient substitute for the martingale may 
 
MARTINGALES. 219 
 
 be improvised by passing the reins under the horse's 
 neck through a single ring, or through two rings 
 attached together by a strap. This arrangement is 
 sometimes called an Irish martingale. 
 
 Its disadvantage is that, when it is employed, the 
 horse cannot be as readily turned to the right or to 
 the left as when the running martingale is used, because 
 the lateral pull of either rein will not be in a straight 
 line, unless, indeed, the other one be let go altogether ; 
 — an action which would be utterly opposed to good 
 horsemanship. 
 
 The standing martingale is attached to the noseband ; 
 or, its billets at each side may be fixed to the snaffle 
 rings. The latter form is a very useful preventative of 
 rearing. The standing martingale should, as a rule, be 
 used only with horses that require some such restraint 
 to prevent them from stargazing, " chucking " up their 
 heads, rearing, or for feats of manege riding. Its use for 
 keeping a horse's head down, within proper limits, can in 
 no way be dangerous, even when " crossing a country," 
 for a horse is most certainly safer when he is compelled to 
 look where he is going, than when he is allowed to stare 
 straight up into the sky. This form of the martingale, 
 with a troublesome horse that requires its employment, 
 
220 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 relieves the rider's hands and arms of a great deal of 
 disagreeable exertion. 
 
 For park or ladies' hacks, this martingale may be 
 employed to keep their heads down, so that they may 
 not soil their riders' clothes with foam. 
 
 Saddles. — The names of the different parts of a saddle 
 are as follows : — 
 
 The part which goes over the withers is called the 
 pommel or Jiead, while the hind part of the saddle is 
 termed the cantle. The seat is that portion of the saddle 
 on which the rider sits. The tree comprises the wood 
 and iron framework. The gnllet plate is the iron arch 
 under the pommel. The points of the tree are the wooden 
 continuations of the gullet plate. The baj^s of the tree are 
 the narrow front portions of the wooden sidepieces of 
 the tree, while the bellies of the tree are the broad boards 
 on which the rider sits. The pannel is the lining which 
 lies between the tree and the horse's back. The point 
 pockets are the small pockets in which the ends of the 
 points of the tree rest. The spring bars allow the stirrup 
 leathers to be attached to, or detached from, the saddle. 
 The knee pads, or rolls, are placed on the flaps to help to 
 prevent the rider's knees going forward. The skirts are 
 the small flaps that cover the bars on which the stirrup 
 
SADDLES. 221 
 
 leathers are suspended. The sweat flaps are the pieces 
 of leather which are placed under the girth straps, on 
 each side, to prevent the sweat working through. D's 
 are small semicircular metal hoops which are attached 
 by chapes (short leather straps) to the front or back of the 
 saddle for strapping on a coat, shoe case, etc. Staples 
 are somewhat similar in size and shape to D's, but are 
 firmly fixed to the tree. 
 
 The chief points to be considered about a saddle are 
 that it should be of a suitable fit for the horse's back, 
 and of a proper size and shape for the rider. If 
 well made, it will be long enough, without being 
 too heavy. Its length should, as a rule, be propor- 
 tionate to that of the rider's thighs. A bad rider may 
 require extra weight in the tree, so as to afford him 
 a broad and roomy seat, while a good horseman may 
 well dispense with such aid. Short saddles are most 
 objectionable, both on account of their curtailing the 
 surface over which the weight of the rider is distributed, 
 and also by their tendency to give horses sore backs, 
 as I have pointed out in my 'Veterinary Notes for 
 Horse Owners,' page 185. 
 
 The saddle, between the points of the tree, should 
 accurately fit the horse, so that it may not be liable to 
 
222 BRIDLES AND SADDLES, 
 
 work backwards and forwards, and that the gullet plate 
 may not hurt the withers. 
 
 Many people prefer a saddle with the pommel cut 
 back to one with it cut straight down. The idea of the 
 former looking better than the latter, is a matter of taste. 
 It probably gives the horse the appearance of having 
 more sloping shoul'ders than he would have, were the other 
 form used. It may, however, be objected to on account 
 of its requiring a slightly stronger, and consequently a 
 heavier tree than one with a straight-cut pommel, 
 which, as far as my experience goes, affords the better 
 fit of the two. 
 
 The points of the tree should slope a little to the 
 front. They will then fit the horse better than if they 
 came straight down, provided that the animal has not a 
 very upright shoulder ; and will not be liable to wear 
 through the flaps, as they often do, when of the other 
 shape, by reason of the rider's legs pressing the flaps 
 continually against the points of the tree. 
 
 The flaps of a saddle should, as a rule, be cut well 
 " forward " (see Fig. 30), so as to allow the thigh to be 
 kept at a good slope. The flaps may have knee pads, 
 or be plain, as the rider chooses. The former shape cer- 
 tainly gives a better " grip " to an indifferent rider with 
 
SADDLES. 223 
 
 round thighs, than the latter. It has, however, been ob- 
 jected to on the ground that it is apt to cause sprains 
 of the knee, thigh, and back, especially when landing 
 after a drop jump. Doubtless it is true that such 
 accidents do happen, but they are of sufficiently rare 
 occurrence to be disregarded. The plain flap lasts 
 
 longer, is somewhat cheaper, and looks, I think, more 
 workmanlike, than the other. 
 
 Saddles covered with doeskin, or having the flaps 
 covered with it, and the seat with pigskin, afford the 
 rider a very firm grip. They are, however, much more 
 suitable for use in hot climates, than in damp ones like 
 England. 
 
 As a rule, cheap machine-made saddles look bad, and 
 are comfortable neither to the horse nor to his rider. 
 They are made of inferior leather, have long, coarse 
 stitches, and fit the back by reason of extra stuffing in 
 
234 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 the pannel, and not, as they ought to do, by the tree 
 being of a proper shape. As the substance of each 
 hide varies in its different parts, while the strength 
 which is appHed to each stitch by the machine remains 
 uniform, the sewing is much inferior to that done by 
 hand. 
 
 A saddle should have as little stuffing as possible 
 compatible with an accurate fit and immunity from the 
 danger of its hurting the horse's back ; for the less 
 the distance is between the rider and his horse the 
 firmer will be his seat. The best makers nowadays 
 construct saddles so admirably that they leave little, 
 if anything, to be desired. 
 
 Pannels should be " laced " (sewn) in, and not nailed 
 to the tree, for if the latter method be adopted, the nails 
 may work loose and hurt the horse. One nail, placed in 
 the centre and just under the cantle, must be retained 
 
 Mr. Nicholls has kindly furnished me with the follow- 
 ing notes on saddles : 
 
 It is not a bad plan to allow I lb. for the saddle, 
 up to 14 lb., for every stone of the rider's weight. 
 This will give sufficient strength in the tree, and size 
 enough for a heavy man to sit comfortably. The 
 length of the seat should vary from 17 to 18 inches, 
 
SADDLES. 
 
 measuring from head to cantle, and the width, from 1 1 
 to 13 inches, according to the height and weight of the 
 rider. A man with long thighs will require the flaps to 
 be set well forward, while men with short, round thighs 
 should have them nearly straight, or the knee pads will 
 afford no assistance. In other respects, the shape of a 
 saddle, whether straight in front, or cut back, is very 
 much a matter of individual taste. It is a great mistake 
 to suppose that a saddle ought to fit any horse. In well- 
 appointed stables, each favourite horse has, usually, his 
 own saddle. A saddle tree, to fit a horse accurately, 
 should have a level bearing along the muscles of the 
 back, with sufficient space in front and behind, for a 
 finger to be inserted under the pommel or cantle. The 
 bellies of the tree should be at such a slope that the 
 pannel under them may lie close on both sides of the 
 back. The fact of the bellies being too flat often causes 
 a sore back, by its allowing the tree to touch the back- 
 bone. The points of the tree should fit closely without 
 pinching. One thing to be observed in choosing a 
 saddle, is that the tree should not be too wide in the 
 centre, but should be formed so as to allow the rider to 
 get well down in his fork, that he may get a firm grip with 
 the thighs, and, consequently, a secure seat in the saddle. 
 
 Q 
 
226 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 The dip in the seat of the saddle should be exactly in 
 the centre. No leather is equal to hogskin, although the 
 quality of it has deteriorated a great deal of late years, 
 in consequence of pigs being bred finer, and coming 
 earlier to maturity, than formerly. Common low-priced 
 saddles, whether machine or hand-made, are expensive 
 in the end. They look bad, wear indifferently, and are 
 comfortable neither to the horse nor to the rider. At 
 the same time, men are such creatures of habit, that 
 they will get fond of, and swear by, an old saddle to 
 which they have become accustomed, although it may 
 be faulty, both in construction and quality. An amusing 
 instance of this occurred lately. An officer of a crack 
 cavalry regiment, who has a great reputation for horsey 
 knowledge, went to a saddler to get a favourite saddle 
 copied exactly, as he said it was the best and most com- 
 fortable one upon which he had ever sat. Upon inspec- 
 tion, the pattern was found to be the most worthless 
 thin"- imaginable. The tree was out of all proportion. 
 It had spread in front, wide enough for a dray horse. It 
 was bowed in the centre, so that only about three inches 
 of the saddle could rest upon the horse's back ; while 
 the seat was so devoid of setting and stuffing, that the 
 rider sat in a dip on the hogskin and boards. When the 
 
GIRTHS. 227 
 
 owner came again, was shown and had explained to 
 him the defects of the saddle, he decided at once to 
 reject the pattern, the sole merit of which, to him, con- 
 sisted, probably, in the unusual dip of the seat, which 
 was obtained at the expense of the horse, who was 
 unable to complain about his muscles being made to 
 ache by the unequal distribution of weight. 
 
 Girths. — Fitzwilliam girths, which consist of one 
 broad girth attached to the saddle by two buckles at 
 each side, with an ordinary-shaped girth over it, are 
 perhaps the best for general work. Those made of 
 plaited or twisted raw hide, which are usually called 
 Australian girths, and others made after the same pattern, 
 but of cord, answer extremely well. Being formed of 
 open material, they save the part over which they pass 
 from becoming heated, and consequently chafed. A 
 capital girth, for colonial work, may be made from a 
 broad leather strap, slit lengthwise into several divisions, 
 and furnished with two or three buckles on each side. 
 The strap may be cut out of the middle of the hide. 
 It may be soaked in neat's-foot oil to make it pliable. 
 
 A girth buckle should be divided by a bar across 
 its underneath surface, so that the point of the tongue 
 may lie flush with the buckle, and that the tongue be 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 not liable to be pulled through. If the centre bar be 
 absent, the point of the tongue of the buckle, on account 
 of its being raised, will stick into the flap of the saddle 
 and will score, and thus wear out the girth tug or strap 
 when the horse is being ungirthed. If my description 
 be not plain enough, an inspection of the ordinary girth 
 buckle will explain to the reader the reason why the 
 centre bar is used with it. 
 
 Saddle Cloths. — The legitimate use of a saddle cloth 
 is to save the pannel of the saddle from becoming soiled 
 by sweat. It should be thin in order to avoid giving 
 any " play " to the saddle. A thick one, when used 
 to prevent a sore back, is but a clumsy makeshift. 
 Its use should be restricted to cases in which it is 
 impossible to get the saddle properly stuffed. Saddle 
 cloths made of one thickness of leather, answer their 
 purpose admirably. If constantly worn, they will keep 
 soft and pliable, by reason of their absorbing the oil which 
 is excreted by the skin on which they rest. It is a good 
 plan, before using a new leather saddle cloth, to rub into 
 it a little cod-liver oil, which will keep it soft for a long 
 time. 
 
PUTTING ON THE BRIDLE. 
 
 129 
 
 How to put on the Bridle and Saddle. 
 Before putting on the bridle, the crownpiece should 
 be held in the left hand, while the right holds the reins 
 at their centre in the full of the hand. The reins are 
 
 Ficr. 
 
 then passed over the head, and placed on the neck. 
 The right hand takes the crownpiece of the bridle, and 
 holds it in front of the face, while the left hand places 
 the bit in the mouth. The right hand may be steadied 
 by its holding the forelock. 
 
 Before putting on a double bridle, the bridoon 
 
BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 (snaffle) should be placed over the mouthpiece of the 
 curb. 
 
 The snaffle should be put low enough in the mouth to 
 just avoid wrinkling its corners. 
 
 The mouthpiece of the curb, as directed by Colonel 
 Greenwood in his excellent book, ' Hints on Horseman- 
 ship,' should be placed so that it maybe just clear of the 
 tushes of the horse, or about one inch above the corner 
 nippers of the mare ; in fact, as low as possible without 
 involving the danger of the curbchain slipping over the 
 animal's chin. When the curb is in this position, the 
 curbchain will have but little tendency to work up on 
 to the sharp edges of the lower jaw ; while the down- 
 ward pull on the headstall will be got rid of as much as 
 the construction of the bit will allow. I am aware that 
 when placed in the position I have described, the curb, 
 when its reins are slack, will appear to unaccustomed 
 eyes to be placed far too low. When the reins, how- 
 ever, are drawn tight, the veriest novice will appreciate 
 the correctness of the adjustment. By adopting this 
 method of arranging the curb, I have succeeded, in 
 scores of cases, as if by magic, in getting horses to go 
 quietly in it, who previously were all but unmanageable 
 -with one in their mouths. I am deeply indebted to 
 
THE CURBCHAIX. 
 
 Colonel Greenwood for this very " straight tip," which is 
 the best I have ever received, from a book, on the subject 
 of bitting horses. In the cavalry, the mouthpiece is 
 placed an inch higher in the mouth than what Colonel 
 Greenwood advises. 
 
 The airbchain should pass outside of the snaffle, and 
 should be of such length that it may lie flat and even 
 against the chin groove, with a certain amount of play, 
 say, through about thirty degrees. If too much play be 
 given, the mechanical advantage of the curb will be more 
 or less nullified. The last links of the chain, on both 
 sides, should be, first of all, respectively attached to the 
 curbchain hooks, and then the slack portion should be 
 taken up, in equal lengths, on both hooks, so that the 
 small ring, through which the lip strap passes, may be 
 equally distant from each of them, and that the shape of 
 the curbchain may be the same on both sides of that 
 part of the jaw against which it presses. The looser the 
 curbchain, the less severe will the bit naturally be. 
 
 A throat latch should be put on very loosely. If 
 buckled tightly, it will not alone incommode the horse's 
 breathing, but will also, as pointed out by " Harry 
 Hieover," spoil the look of his head ; while if it be put 
 on too loosely, it will appear dealer-like. 
 
 If a noseband be put on merely for show, it should be 
 
232 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 moderately loose, as it will then look best ; but if for 
 use, it should be drawn tight. It may be placed a 
 couple of inches clear of the upper rings of the cheeks of 
 the bit, if with a curb, so that it may not press incon- 
 veniently on the horse's nostrils. It ought to occupy 
 the same position with the snaffle. 
 
 A running martingale, as I have before stated, should 
 be sufficiently long to allow the pull of the reins to be in 
 a line with the top of the withers. With horses which 
 carry their heads in a proper position, the martingale 
 may be lengthened out a little more. As the effect of a 
 sJurt martingale, with a snaffle, is to throw the pressure 
 on the bars of the horse's mouth, it should on no account 
 be employed with animals which are required to jump, 
 for they would, then, be naturally afraid to face their bit, 
 being well aware that every jerk on the reins would fall 
 on their gums, which are tender and unyielding ; while, 
 if the martingale were lengthened out, the pressure 
 would come on the corners of the mouth, which are 
 able to " give and take " to a certain extent with the 
 action of the snaffle. 
 
 If "stops" be not on reins which have buckles, the 
 ends of the straps (billets) of the buckles should be with- 
 drawn out of their " keepers," as in the accompanying 
 sketch, so that the rings of the martingale may not 
 
THE MARTINGALE. 233 
 
 catch on the buckles, which might lead to a serious 
 accident with an impetuous horse. 
 
 Fig. 32. 
 
 . When the martingale is used with the double bridle, 
 it is almost always put on the bridoon reins. When it is 
 employed with a double reined snaffle, the lower reins 
 should be passed through the martingale rings. In 
 ordinary riding, two reins are used with a snaffle and 
 martingale ; while the Newmarket custom with race- 
 horses is to have only one rein on the snaffle, whether a 
 martingale be employed or not. It being as necessary 
 to keep a horse's head in position, and to ride him up to 
 his bridle, with a curb as with a snaffle, the martingale 
 is as applicable to the reins '©if the former as it is to those 
 of the latter, always supposing that, with the curb, the 
 martingale is lengthened sufficiently out, so as to allow 
 the pull of the reins to be clear of the top of the withers. 
 
234 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 The martingale should be attached to the surcingle, if 
 one be used, or to the front (under) girth. 
 
 The following practical ride for the adjustment of the 
 standing martingale may be found useful. Fix it at 
 such a length that a running martingale, were it also on, 
 would be drawn up to its fullest extent when the rider 
 holds the reins just clear of the top of the withers. Tne 
 running martingale might be put on, in order to deter- 
 mine the proper length of the standing martingale, 
 and taken off when that is done. The legitimate action 
 of the horse's head would then be no more interfered 
 with, than it would be were the rider to keep it in 
 proper position by means of a running martingale. We 
 know from experience that it is never desirable, except 
 when trying to prevent a horse from kicking, and when 
 easing the strain on our own arms, to hold our hands 
 higher than just clear of the withers. Hence I submit 
 that a standing martingale, used at the length I have 
 described, cannot interfere with any of the useful move- 
 ments of the horse, whether he is walking, trotting, 
 galloping or jumping. 
 
 To prevent a horse from boring to one side, if he has 
 that habit, we may pass a strap through the ring of the 
 snaffle, on the other side, and through the loop formed 
 
SADDLING. 
 
 by the throat latch, and then tighten the strap as required. 
 The pressure this arrangement puts on the side of the 
 mouth opposite to which the horse bores, will generally 
 make him go with an " even feeling " on both reins. 
 
 When a horse carries his head too low down in gallop- 
 ing, the snaffle may be fixed higher than usual, so that 
 the bearing on the corners of the mouth may make him 
 hold his head up in the manner he ought to do. This 
 arrangement is simply a substitute for the gag snaffle. 
 
 The following description oi 2. plan for bridling a buck- 
 jumper, such as are met with in Australia, may not be 
 out of place here. 
 
 Put on a snaffle with double reins, unbuckle one pair 
 at the centre, cross them over the withers, and attach 
 them respectively to the D's on each side — the near rein 
 going to the off D, and the off to the near — so that the 
 horse may not be able by any possibility to get his head 
 down. He should then be ridden with the other reins. 
 This method, which I have often tried with success in 
 India, should be adopted only for breaking in, and not 
 as a regular practice. 
 
 Saddling the Horse. — The saddle should be passed 
 backwards over the withers to a position just clear of the 
 " play " of the shoulder-blades. Men who try to make 
 
236 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 out that the horse has a longer " rein " and a better 
 shoulder than he really has, often put the saddle three 
 or four inches farther back with this object. Such 
 " coping " dodges can deceive only the veriest tyro. 
 
 The idea that the saddle should be placed in the 
 centre of the back of the horse, regarding him as a sort 
 of four-legged table, betrays strange ignorance of the 
 anatomy of the animal, — for the chief office of the fore 
 legs is to support weight, while that of the hind is to 
 propel it ; hence, when the attainment of speed is our 
 object, the saddle should be placed as far forward as 
 possible without interfering with the working of the 
 shoulder-blades. 
 
 Before girthing up, the groom should, if a saddle cloth 
 be used, bring, with his finger, the front part of it well 
 up into the arch of the gullet plate, in order to prevent 
 it from being pressed down on the withers. 
 
 The front girth is taken up first, and then the hind 
 one. We should avoid tight girthing, and should try 
 to hit off the happy medium between the girths being 
 so loose as to allow of the chance of the saddle slipping, 
 and so tight that it would interfere with the horse's 
 breathing. To lessen the possibility of the latter con- 
 tingency, the girths should be placed well back from 
 
SADDLING. lyj 
 
 under the animal's elbows, when he is being girthed up. 
 The groom, when he has drawn the girths tight, should 
 run his finger between them and the skin, from the near 
 side to the ofif, so as to smooth out any wrinkles. 
 
 Some horses swell themselves out on being saddled, 
 and consequently require to be walked about for a short 
 time, after which the girths will have to be taken up 
 afresh, before the rider can mount without incurring the 
 chance of the saddle shifting its position. 
 
 For safety sake, the spring bars of a saddle should 
 be kept always open. When they are so, there is not 
 the slightest chance of the stirrup leather coming out, 
 unless in the case of an indifferent rider, who puts all 
 his weight en the stirrups, and who happens to perform 
 in a very hilly country, or to scramble up a steep bank. 
 The locks should be kept well oiled, if they be closed 
 when used. 
 
 When a girth is too long, it may be shortened by 
 taking a fold of the webbing near one end, passing the 
 tongue of the buckle through it, and then attaching 
 the buckle to one of the off girth tugs. This should be 
 only a temporary measure, as it is apt to spoil the 
 webbing. 
 
 A stirrup leather looks neatest on a saddle when the 
 
238 
 
 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 loose end is passed to the rear between the flap and 
 the leather, and immediately beneath the spring bar. 
 
 The following is a very useful plan for causing a 
 stirrup iron to remain at right angles to the side of the 
 horse, in case the rider's foot comes out, so then he may 
 readily " pick " the stirrup iron up again. Twist the 
 
 Fisf. 33. 
 
 stirrup leather in the direction the hands of a clock 
 proceed, if on the near side, and vice versa, until it is 
 pretty well shortened ; then pull it hard down (see Fig. 33) 
 and let it go. On regaining its natural position, the 
 leather will be found to have received a twist which will 
 keep the iron at right angles to the horse's side. An 
 
CHOICE OF A BIT. 239 
 
 unskilful rider who " loses " his stirrup, often finds great 
 difficulty in catching it again with his foot, if it happens 
 to lie parallel to the horse's side ; while he will naturally 
 feel " all abroad " if he is on a difficult horse, or is 
 trying to negotiate a jump, unless he has the support 
 of both stirrups. When the leathers are twisted, as I 
 have described, the iron will be in the very best position 
 for the foot to take it. It strikes me also, that in the 
 event of a fall, the feet will come out of the irons a trifle 
 more readily when thus arranged, than they would do 
 without the leather having received a twist. 
 
 Choice of a Bit. 
 
 As, in ail ordinary riding, we require to have perfect 
 command over a horse, the double bridle will be found 
 to be the best one for general use. We may, with it, 
 ride on the snaffle as much as w^e like, and keep the 
 curb for emergencies. With the bit and bridoon, men 
 frequently, from not knowing how to hold their reins 
 properly, get into the habit of always riding with an 
 equal feeling on both reins, and then they not unusually 
 blame the double bridle for being too severe. The 
 snaffle is the queen of bits when used by a really fine 
 horseman, or by a " mutton-fisted " rider. The former 
 
240 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 can, by its aid, " get more out " of a horse, and control 
 him better, than by means of any other bit ; while the 
 latter will do less harm, and will *' stick on " tighter, 
 while holding on to it, than he would do were he to use 
 any form of the curb. 
 
 " When my friends have come to me concerning their 
 unmanageable horse, I invariably find the poor animal 
 has been overbitted, or wrongly bitted, and recommend 
 the easiest kind of bit, which, in nine cases out of ten, 
 succeeds " (Latchford). 
 
 The curb is especially useful for horses that " sprawl 
 about " and require a good deal of " collecting," and, 
 also, when it is necessary to " pull a horse together," 
 when going through a heavy country, or when he is 
 tired after a long run ; for, from the peculiar action of 
 the curb, the animal will, with it, far more readily bend 
 his neck, and, consequently, arch his loins and get his 
 hind quarters under him, than he would do with the 
 snaffle. When the horse holds his head in a perpen- 
 dicular position, or when it is kept so by means of a 
 martingale, the pressure of the snaffle will act directly 
 on his bars (gums), and will, if strong enough, cause 
 him to arch his neck ; but if he be allowed to poke his 
 nose out, the pressure of the snaffle will be taken by 
 
CHOICE OF A BIT. 241 
 
 the corners of his mouth, in which case the indication 
 afforded him by the rider puUing at the reins will be 
 to slacken his speed, rather than to bend his neck ; 
 hence the difficulty often experienced in " collecting " 
 a horse with a snaffle. Oriental cavalry, who use a 
 snaffle furnished with short spikes, have extraordinary 
 power over their chargers, whose heads they tie tightly 
 down by means of a standing martingale. 
 
 A large, plain, smooth snaffle is the best of its kind 
 for ordinary work. 
 
 The chain S7iaffle is an excellent " all round " bit, 
 especially for pullers. With light-mouthed horses, it 
 may be covered with washleather (see page 192). 
 
 The double-ringed snaffle (see page 192) may be used 
 for horses which bore to one side, or have to be at times 
 turned sharply. 
 
 The gag snaffle (see page 193) is specially applicable 
 for horses that " bore " their heads down, and for Aus- 
 tralian buck-jumpers. By using both reins, the pressure 
 may be regulated, so as to keep the horse's head in a 
 proper position. Stonehenge remarks that "the gag 
 snaffle is particularly well adapted to the double-reined 
 bridle intended for pulling horses carrying their heads too 
 low, which the curb has a tendency rather to increase than 
 
 R 
 
242 BRIDLES AND SADDLES. 
 
 drminish. The combined use of the two, however, 
 corrects this fault, and a pleasant as well as a safe 
 carriage of the head may be effected." 
 
 For a bad stargazer, that does not pull outrageously 
 hard, I know no such efficient arrangement as that 
 which may be obtained by connecting the reins of a 
 snaffle respectively to the side pieces of a running 
 martingale, after removing the rings of the latter, and 
 then bringing them through the rings of the snaffle up 
 to the rider's hands. This combines the effects of the 
 martingale and of the running reins. 
 
 With a stargazer that pulls a great deal, a curb and 
 standing martingale may be used, or a running martin- 
 gale may be attached to the curb reins. 
 
 I think that, as far as appearances go, a double bridle, 
 with a noseband, is the best to set off a horse which has 
 a plain head ; and that a Pelham is by far the worst. 
 A handsome bloodlike head looks best through 3. 
 snaffle. 
 
 I have never seen a really fine horseman, with a 
 snaffle, or a fairly good rider with a properly made and 
 correctly adjusted curb, fail to hold the most determined 
 puller. 
 
( 243 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 Bridles— Martingales — Saddles — Stirrup Irons — Stirrup Leathers 
 and Webs — Lead Cloths — Weight Jackets and Belts — Adjust- 
 ment of the Racing Gear. 
 
 Bridles. — Unless in very exceptional cases, the ordinary 
 plain or chain snaffle is the only kind of bit which should 
 be used with the racehorse. The thin racing snaffle 
 teaches him to pull, while the curb tends to make him 
 raise his feet too high, and bend his knees too much, 
 in other words, to gallop " round " (see page 201). In 
 cases of doubt, a double bridle may be used, so that 
 in the event of the rider not being able to hold his 
 horse with the bridoon, he may have the bit reins 
 ready to take up. Horses which can be held with a 
 snaffle, gallop, as a rule, in far better form in it, than 
 in a double bridle, even when the bridoon alone is 
 used ; tiie very presence of the curb seeming to deter 
 them from going boldly up to their bridle. 
 
 R 2 
 
244 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 A double bridle is less objectionable for steeplechase 
 riding than for the flat, on account of the greater 
 necessity there is for obtaining command over the 
 horse, and for " collecting " him, in the former, than 
 in the latter business. When it has to be used in a 
 race, the rider, having previously ascertained the exact 
 length of curbchain which suits his mount, should, 
 before going to the starting post, see that the proper 
 number of links, no more and no less, are taken up. 
 
 Horses which carry the head too low may be ridden 
 in a gag snafile (see page 241), or the cheekpieces of the 
 headstall of the snaffle may be taken up a little (see 
 page 235). One should be very careful not to adopt any 
 method of arranging the bridle gear which might, in the 
 slightest, check the horse's speed. 
 
 It is the present custom to use only one rein with 
 the snaffle, even when a martingale is on (see page 81). 
 
 Martingales. — A running martingale will generally 
 be required, for apart from its use in keeping a star- 
 gazer's head down — in which case it will have to be 
 somewhat shortened — it is, even when lengthened out, 
 a most powerful aid in steadying a horse in his gallop, 
 in turning him, and in enabling the jockey to catch a 
 firm "hold of his head." It is specially useful with 
 
RACING SADDLES. 245 
 
 young horses that are apt to " yaw " about, and with 
 steeplechasers. 
 
 The standing martingale (see page 219) has, in one or 
 two instances, been used for cross-country work. 
 
 Saddles. — The first point to be considered about 
 racing saddles is that they should be long and roomy, 
 as well as light. A 2j lbs. or 3 lbs. saddle, all complete 
 with irons, webs, girth and surcingle, ought not to be less 
 than 15 inches in length ; while a 6 lbs. or 7 lbs. training 
 or steeplechase one should be more than an inch longer. 
 
 The steeplechase saddle should fit as close as possible 
 to the horse, without actually pressing on the vertebras 
 of the back, while all unnecessary stuffing and saddle 
 cloths should be dispensed with, so as to avoid giving 
 play to the saddle. It may be covered with doeskin 
 in order to afford the rider a firm seat. Unless a very 
 light one be used, it should be provided with spring 
 bars for the stirrup leathers. The locks should be 
 always left open. 
 
 Leaded saddles, which may be made to weigh a couple 
 of stone, or even more, are very useful when dead weight 
 has to be put up ; or for trials, when the trainer does 
 not want his jockeys to know more than he can help. 
 
 The ordinary steeplechase saddle is similar to the 
 
246 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 9 lbs. or 10 lbs. one which is used for training work, 
 though it may be made as light as 4 lbs. all complete. 
 Some exceptionally strong riders, such as Mr. Garratt 
 Moore, are able to ride across country in a 2 lbs. racing 
 saddle, almost as well as they can do in one five times the 
 weight. Apart from the question of comfort to man and 
 horse, such a very light saddle can hardly be expected 
 to last more than one journey "between the flags ;" for 
 even if the tree escapes being broken, the gullet plate 
 will be almost certain to open out, and, consequently, 
 to press on the withers. 
 
 The Stirrup Irons of racing and steeplechase saddles 
 should have plenty of room for the foot, so that there 
 would be little chance of its being retained in the iron, 
 in the event of a fall. I am convinced that when a man 
 gets " dragged," it is on account of the stirrup being too 
 small. I have known only one case of a rider's foot 
 getting caught by its going through the iron. This 
 solitary instance, in my experience, happened during 
 a fall, when both horse and jockey came down. It 
 seems impossible that a sufficiently large stirrup can 
 retain the foot, unless its upper part first catches high 
 up on the instep. To prevent this occurring, the steeple- 
 chase, and even the flat race, rider may have long heels 
 
LEATHERS AND WEBS. 247 
 
 to his boots, which will prevent the irons working too 
 far back on the foot. Most of us doubtless have felt 
 when riding, with ordinary short-heeled boots, and with 
 our feet well " home," the irons sometimes catch on our 
 insteps in this manner. Very light racing boots have 
 no heels. As light stirrups of inferior material are very 
 apt to bend from the rider's weight, and consequently 
 to catch on his feet, great care should be taken that 
 none but those of the very best steel be used. 
 
 For racing saddles, the upper part of the eyes of the 
 stirrup irons should be covered with leather, in order to 
 prevent the iron from cutting the webs. 
 
 Stirrup Leathers and Webs. — For steeplechasing 
 leathers are to be preferred to webs, as they are less 
 liable to break, while, with them, the rider can pick up 
 his stirrup much more readily than if he had webs, 
 which have a great tendency, when loose, to twist and 
 fly about, the moment the rider's foot quits the stirrup 
 iron, when the horse is galloping. 
 
 The best kind of web Is the " circular " one, the 
 material of which is of a double thickness. The single 
 web is apt to break and wear out quickly. With light 
 leathers, the part through which the holes are punched 
 should be strengthened, as is always done with webs, by 
 
48 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 an extra thickness of leather, as the fracture, when it 
 takes place, almost always occurs at the hole through 
 which the tongue of the buckle passes. 
 
 Lead Cloths. — The trainer should have weight cloths 
 capable of containing different amounts, with their own 
 actual weights respectively marked on them. One or two 
 cloths weighted with leather up to 4 or 5 lbs., will come in 
 useful ; while there should be one, at least, capable of 
 carrying about 21 lbs., so as to obviate the necessity of 
 putting on two small ones, for the saddle will then have 
 less play than it would have were the latter employed. 
 
 Each pocket of the weight cloth is, usually, secured 
 by a strap and buckle for safety sake. The only objec- 
 tion to buckles is that they prevent the flaps of the 
 saddle and those of the pannel from lying flat on the 
 weight cloth. Instead of buckles, the pockets may be 
 secured by loops through which passes a strap that is 
 sewn to the rear part of the cloth, and is attached to 
 a buckle on its front part, which lies beyond the saddle 
 flap. If the buckle be to the rear, the rider, when 
 using the whip, might hurt his knuckles against it. 
 To prevent a weight cloth slipping off during a race, it 
 may be secured, on each side, by a strap and loop ; the 
 former being attached to the front part of the cloth. 
 
LEADS. 249 
 
 while the girth strap passes through the latter. This 
 arrangement will prevent the cloth from slipping back- 
 wards. It has no tendency to slip forwards. 
 
 The leads should be thin and very pliable, and may be 
 covered with washleather, on which it is convenient to 
 mark their respective weights, which will average about 
 \ lb. There should be a few light leads to make up 
 exact weight. In order to obtain increased pliability, 
 leads of half the ordinary thickness may be sewn up 
 in pairs. Leads are covered with washleather, to prevent 
 them from slipping out of the pockets of the cloth. 
 They should be provided with " tags," so that they may 
 be readily removed, if required. 
 
 Weight Jackets and Belts. — Instead of a weight cloth, 
 a weight jacket may be used, in case the trainer wants 
 to keep a trial "dark." The jacket should be made to 
 fit tight, and should have pockets round the body to 
 contain leads. In this way a stone or more may be 
 carried. A shot belt may be used, for the same purpose, 
 around the waist ; it should be supported by shoulder 
 straps. For a race, and particularly for a steeplechase, 
 a weight cloth is much to be preferred to a weight 
 jacket, as the latter impedes, and often hurts, the rider 
 by the leads striking against his sides. 
 
250 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 Adjustment of the Racing Gear. — The manner of 
 putting on the bridle has been described on page 229. 
 
 The maj'tingaie, for ordinary racing purposes, should 
 be of such a length that, when drawn straight up, the 
 rings will reach to about the top of the withers. For 
 steeplechasing, however high the horse may hold his 
 head, it should never be so short as to make the pull 
 of the reins to come below the withers. 
 
 The saddle should be placed just clear of the animal's 
 shoulderblades and no more. For a training gallop 
 it may be placed a little farther back, so as to lessen the 
 strain on the fore legs, unless, indeed, the horse has a 
 weak spot behind. The surcingle alone should pass 
 through the loop of the running martingale, while its 
 buckle should come low down, so as not to press against 
 the horse's side and hurt him. A pad, about a foot 
 broad, and eight inches long, with about four inches 
 down the centre unstuffed, will be useful with a light 
 racing saddle, to prevent the gullet plate from pressing 
 on the withers. If there be danger of this happening, 
 and a pad be not at hand, one may be easily made for 
 the occasion, by taking a flannel bandage, folding it in 
 two, and then rolling it up loosely from both ends, till 
 the two rolls are within five or six inches of each 
 
PUTTING OX A RACING SADDLE. 251 
 
 other. This improvised pad may be placed over the 
 withers and underneath the pommel of the saddle. The 
 tapes of the bandage may be previously removed. If a 
 bandage be not at hand, a rubber may be folded and 
 used in the same manner. By this plan, the gullet plate 
 will be kept off the withers. Even when the gullet plate 
 does not come down too low, a thin woollen pad is 
 generally used to protect them, when a racing saddle is 
 put on. A large sponge makes a good pad. 
 
 Leathers for steeplechasing should be twisted, just 
 before the race, in the manner described on page 238. 
 
 As it sometimes happens that amateurs who are not 
 particularly good horsemen attempt to ride over a 
 country, I trust I may be pardoned by critical readers 
 if I remark that the best way to make a saddle less 
 slippery than it would naturally be to an indifferent 
 rider, is, before mounting, to rub over the seat and flaps 
 a little finely powdered resin. This is infinitely more 
 efficacious than wetting them, or the insides of the 
 breeches, with water. I would not advise any such 
 practice to be adopted for ordinary riding, but, in a 
 chase, especially when *' the money is on," a man's first 
 object should be to " remain " in his saddle. 
 
 New girths should not be put on for a race, as they will 
 
252 RACING SADDLERY. 
 
 stretch considerably, and may allow the saddle to shift 
 its position, or even to turn round. A silk girth should 
 never be used, as it will be almost certain to hurt the 
 horse. It is infinitely better, instead of using a silk one, 
 to put up a little extra weight in the form of a comfort- 
 able web girth. Girths should be as broad as possible. 
 
 A weight cloth should be placed well forward, with the 
 leads equally divided on both sides. If there be an odd 
 piece, it may be put in one of the pockets of the off side if 
 the race be on a right-handed course, and vice versa. To 
 prevent the horse's sides from being hurt, no leads should 
 be put into the pockets over which the girth passes. 
 
 LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
REVIEWS 
 
 OF 
 
 WORKS BY Capt. M. HORACE HAYES 
 
 AND OTHER AUTHORS. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 W. THACKER & CO., 87 NEWGATE STREET, LONDON. 
 
 THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
Capt. Hayes' Veterinary 
 
 Second Edition, in Crown 8vo., Illustrated, \os. 6d. 
 
 VETERINARY NOTES FOR HORSE- OWNERS, 
 
 AN EVERY-DAY HORSE BOOK. 
 
 By capt. M. HORACE HAYES. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 Saturday Review. — *' The work is written in a clear and practical 
 way." 
 
 The Field. — "Of the many popular veterinary books which have come 
 under our notice, this is certainly one of the most scientific and reliable. 
 The author tells us, in the preface to the first edition, that any merit which 
 the book may possess is to be ascribed to the teaching of the Principal and 
 Professors of the New Veterinary College at Edinburgh, where he studied. 
 It is much to be desired that every student would make so much use of his 
 opportunities as Capt. Hayes has done. 
 
 "It may be noted that the writer deprecates amateur veterinary practice 
 when professional aid can be procured ; but he rightly believes that a 
 horse-owner may at times find himself with a sick horse on his hands and 
 no qualified person near from whom advice may be obtained. It is most 
 probable that the amateur who knows most of the subject of veterinary 
 pathology will be most reluctant to interfere, unless he is compelled by 
 circumstances to act in place of the professional man. 
 
 " Some notice is accorded to nearly all the diseases which are common 
 to horses in this country, and the writer takes advantage of his Indian 
 experience to touch upon several maladies of horses in that country, where 
 veterinary surgeons are few and far between. The description of symptoms 
 and the directions for the application of remedies, are given in perfectly 
 plain terms, which the tyro will find no difficulty in comprehending ; and, 
 for the purpose of further smoothing his path, a chapter is given on 
 veterinary medicines, their actions, uses, and doses. This information 
 will be most acceptable to the majority of horse-owners, and mav be 
 invaluable on an emergency when no advice better than that of the village 
 cow doctor can be obtained. 
 
 "If some painstaking student would give us works of equal merit to 
 this, on the diseases of the other domestic animals, we should possess 
 a very complete veterinary library in a very small compass." 
 
 W. Thacker &> Co., Lon.^on. Thackcr, SpinJz 6^ Co., Calcutta. 
 
Notes for Horse-owners. 
 
 The Veterinary Journal.- -'■^ K handy little book for the use of horse- 
 owners, which may prove of much service to them when they cannot 
 obtain the assistance of a veterinary surgeon, as well as afford them some 
 notion of many of the ailments to which the horse is exposed, and the 
 manner in which they may be best treated." 
 
 The Sporting Times. — " Everything that treats of the horse is interesting 
 to us, and, we believe, to the readers of this journal. We have a 
 sincere pleasure, therefore, in recommending a perusal of this book, 
 for the author we know to be a practical man, an owner of horses, 
 and himself no mean performer in the pigskin. His first edition has 
 so far received the endorsement of the public as to make a second issue 
 a requirement of the day. Captain Hayes leads us gently through the 
 whole gamut of equine disease, and in suggesting his remedies gives reasons 
 for the faith which is in him, that are intelligible to the non-professional 
 mind. Many of us are tired of the old didactic method, whereby we are 
 taught that if a horse develop symptoms of a certain disease, certain 
 remedies are to be introduced. In this book the author gives a plain and 
 intelligible diagnosis of the disease to be cured, and the best method for 
 its attamment. It is what it professes to be — a clear and comprehensive 
 manual for all horse-owners, and, without trenching too much upon the 
 almost sacred mysteries of the veterinary art, it places a valuable weapon 
 of defence in the hands of those who may be out of the reach of professional 
 assistance, and we should be glad to see it as a part of the ' properties ' 
 wherever a horse is kept." 
 
 Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. — "Simplicity is one of the 
 most commendable features in the book. What Captain Hayes has to 
 say he says in plain terms, and the book is a very useful one for everybody 
 who is concerned with horses." 
 
 7he Sporting Life. — " We heartily welcome the second edition of this 
 exceedingly useful book. The first edition was brought out about two 
 years since, but the work now under notice is fully double the size of its 
 predecessor, and as a matter of course contains more information. Captain 
 Hayes, the author, is not only a practical man in all things connected with 
 the horse, but has also studied his subject from a scientific point of view, 
 and acknowledges the aid he has received from the Principal and Professors 
 of the New Veterinary College, Edinburgh, especially to Mr. A. Johnston, 
 M.R.C.V.S., and Professor Vaughan. The result has been a book which 
 thoroughly meets the objects aimed at, viz., the imparting in a plain, 
 easily-understood style, the symptoms, causes, prevention, and treatment 
 of the many diseases and ailments to which that complicated machine, the 
 horse, is subject. It is not to be supposed that Captain Hayes is in any 
 way antagonistic to the veterinary profession. On the contrary, his aim 
 is to assist them, by showing owners that the best and proper treatment of 
 the horse is not based on ttie cruelty, misconception, and humbug of the 
 charlatan, but is guided by principles of common sense and attested science. 
 At the same time, when veterinary assistance is not available, Captain 
 Hayes' ' Notes for Horse-owners ' will be found a valuable aid to proper 
 stable management, and the treatment in illness, lameness, or accident of 
 our most valued and valuable friend on four feet." 
 
 W. Thacker 6^ Co., Lo?idon. Thacker, Spink or Co., Calcutta. 
 
Capt. Hayes' Guide to Training and 
 
 New Edition. In Crown 8vo,, price ^s. 6d. 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 TRAINING AND HORSE MANAGEMENT 
 IN INDIA. 
 
 - By capt. M. HORACE HAYES. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 The Pioneer (Allahabad). — "The merits of Captain Hayes' book are so 
 well known to all Anglo-Indians that it would be idle to go over old 
 ground in praising the sound practical knowledge shown by the author 
 in all he writes concerning race-horses. The new edition, however, 
 goes even farther than this, for the subject of horse management is no 
 longer made subservient to training, but is dealt with fully and clearly in 
 separate chapters." 
 
 Oriental Sporting Magazine. — "His intentions are truly sportsmanlike 
 and praiseworthy, and if carefully followed ought to ensure the attain- 
 ment of a portion of that success in training which the author himself 
 has been renowned for." 
 
 Englishman (Calcutta). — "It is the practical part of the book with 
 reference to the more ordinary matters connected with horses that makes 
 it so useful." 
 
 The Veterinary Journal. — "We entertain a very high opinion of 
 Captain Hayes' book on 'Horse Training and Management in India,' 
 and are of opinion that no better guide could be placed in the hands of 
 either amateur horseman or veterinary surgeon newly arrived in that 
 important division of our empire. We had not the opportunity of seeing 
 the first edition, but from a careful perusal of the present it appears to 
 contain everything pertaining to training and managing horses. The 
 
 Thacker^ Spink 6^ Co.^ Cakutta. W. Thacker 6^ Co. ^London. 
 
Horse Management in India. 
 
 author proves himself to be not only well-informed theoretically and 
 practically, as to preparing horses for racing in that hot climate, as well 
 as to their equipment and handling for ordinary work, but he also shows 
 that he is possessed of no mean amount of that knowledge which is 
 derived from the study of veterinary medicine. His remarks on shoeing 
 are most judicious and sensible, and if his recommendations were adopted 
 and carried into effect, the pernicious farriery of the native shoeing-smiths 
 would be replaced by a method which would greatly benefit horses and 
 their owners. 
 
 ** Everything relating to racing in India, and the rules of the turf in 
 that country, is embodied in Captain Hayes' book, and not the least 
 valuable portion of it is the Hindustanee vocabulary, containing verna- 
 cular terms referring to all matters relating to the horse, as well as 
 diseases, medicine, etc. This alone should make the guide valuable to 
 the young veterinary surgeon, who finds himself compelled to pick up, as 
 best he can, the rudiments of a strange language when he commences 
 his tour of professional duty." 
 
 Saturday Review. — " Captain Hayes has brought out a second edition 
 of his work on the training and management of horses in India. It is, of 
 course, specially adapted to the circumstances of that country ; but the 
 general instructions which it contains, and which are of a shrewd and 
 practical character, render it a useful guide in regard to horses anywhere." 
 
 Bombay Gazette. — "We have to acknowledge with thanks the receipt 
 of the new edition, re-arranged and much enlarged, of Captain Hayes' 
 very valuable handbook on the above subject. Captain Hayes, by his 
 ' Veterinary Notes for Horse-owners,' as well as the former edition of 
 the work we are now noticing, has already made his name pretty familiar 
 to the lovers of horseflesh in India, and it would therefore be quite 
 superfluous for us to say that he is an authority to whom the horse-owner 
 may safely turn for advice and assistance on every kind of subject con- 
 nected with the horse and his use. 
 
 *' Throughout the whole of this valuable contribution to the literature 
 of the horse and his management the author has said his say in a plain, 
 practical manner, yet with a graphic fluency of diction which renders the 
 book quite pleasant reading in comparison to many others of the treatises 
 which have appeared on the same subject." 
 
 Thacker^ Spink 6^ C^., Calcutta. W. Thackcr &> Co.^ London. 
 
 S 
 
Lays of Ind. 
 
 Sixth Edition, illustrated, cloth elegant, loj. 6^/. 
 
 LAYS OF IND: 
 
 COMIC, SATIRICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE POEMS, 
 
 Jllustratiye of ^nglish Life in India. 
 By ALIPH CHEEM. 
 
 The sale of Five large Editions in India proves the reputation of these 
 famous Lays in their native land. Their fun^ satire, atid graphic deli7tea- 
 tion of character and adventure, are admirably sustained in the six new Lays 
 which the Author has added to the present edition. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 Graphic. — "A 
 new and sumptuous 
 edition of ' Lays of 
 Ind,' by Aliph 
 Cheem, which owes 
 fresh attractions not 
 only to some clever 
 woodcuts with 
 which it is now em- 
 -^^ bellished, but to the 
 ^^ addition of six lays, 
 v- '/I which are quite 
 "-\f equal, in point of 
 \^.^^ merit, to those we 
 "^ ""' have already favour- 
 ably noticed." 
 
 Illustrated Sport' 
 ing and Dramatic 
 News. — "A capital 
 collection of clever 
 ^ sprightly verses ad- 
 
 -• "^- - mirably adapted to 
 serve the author's 
 modestly announced 
 intention, viz., that 
 of smilingly beguil- 
 ing an idle hour. 
 \\ e have enjoyed the book immensely. Some of the little vignette illustra- 
 tions deserve warm praise, and all of them are decidedly good." 
 
 THE NAUGHTY NAUTCH. 
 
 W. Thacker d- Co., London. Thacker, Spink &> Co., Calcutta. 
 
Lays of Tnd. 
 
 vu 
 
 Scotsman. — "Anglo-Indians will be very glad, and not at all surprised, 
 at the appearance of another edition of the ' Lays of Ind,' in which Aliph 
 Cheem sketches and satirises typical phases and characters of European 
 life in India. The book is very handsomely got up, and is profusely 
 illustrated, most of the woodcuts, which are as funny as the verse, being 
 new." 
 
 7 he Week. — "The announcement of a new, enlarged, and illustrated 
 edition of the * Lays of Ind ' will be 
 very welcome to retired Anglo-Indians. 
 
 At the present day, Aliph 
 
 Cheem reigns supreme in the Indian 
 world of light literature. No writer 
 has ever hit off more happily the comical 
 peculiarities of Anglo-Indian life, or 
 chastened his merriment by more tender 
 touches of gentle sadness. The story 
 of 'The Deserted Bun- 
 galow,' on the isle of 
 Seringapatam, creates 
 a choking sensation 
 of which no man need 
 feel ashamed ; but for 
 the most part the 
 author strives to call 
 forth laughter rather 
 than tears, and his 
 efforts are usually 
 crowned with success. 
 Nothing more amusing 
 need be desired than 
 the ' Two Thumpers,' or 'Jinks's Leave,' or 'The Sensitive Fakeer,' or 
 ' O'Leary's Revenge' on Captain de Horse Shou Pinne, or 'The Paint- 
 ing of the Statue.' The miserable ' Loafer,' on the other hand, is a 
 fitting pendant to Hood's ' Bridge of Sighs,' while ' The Letter from 
 Home ' touches a responsive chord in the breast of all who have long been 
 severed from the old country and its sadly sweet associations. In 
 * Perfide Albion' we have the apocryphal tale of the taking of Perim, and 
 in ' The Contented Sub ' we come upon another old friend — the subaltern 
 who spent at his club the two years he was supposed to be doing duty on 
 that desolate rock." 
 
 Broad Arrow, March Sth, 1879. — " No one who has read the former 
 editions of these ' Lays of Ind ' will feel any surprise at the appearance of 
 a sixth edition, for the Lays are really what they profess to be — comic, 
 satirical, and descriptive poems, illustrative of English Life in India. 
 Aliph Cheem is a keen observer of men and things, and his verse is as 
 easy and flowing as that of the immortal Ingoldsby himself. This is high 
 praise, but it is deserved. We notice many new pieces in the present 
 edition, and these not among the least amusing, for instance: — 'Lord 
 Courtly,' 'My Moonshee,' ' Cardozo, the Half-Caste,' 'The Dead Shot,' 
 ' My Letter to the Beak,' 'Captain Sprint's Wager.' We further notice 
 that most of the illustrations are new." 
 
 ROSE DE PHLAIME. 
 
 IV. Thackcr 6^ Co.^ London. Thacker^ Spink 6^ G?., Calcutta. 
 
r 
 viii Basil Ormond, and Christaher s Love. 
 
 In Crown 8vo., 5j. 
 
 BASIL ORMOND, AND GHRISTABEL'S LOVE, 
 
 METRICAL TALES. 
 By the Author of "Lays of Ind." 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 Broad Arrmu. — "Display remarkable power, coupled with melodious 
 versification." 
 
 Graphic. — "The author of 'Lays of Ind' shows in his latest book, 
 ' Basil Ormond, and Christabel's Love,' that he can write something 
 more than good humorous verse — a fact which was indeed foretokened 
 by more than one piece in his former volume, notably by ' The Loafer.' 
 There is, perhaps, no one amongst our minor singers whose rhythm is 
 more easy and natural, whilst in the first of the two poems there is an 
 amount of tragic intensity for which we were hardly prepared." 
 
 Times of India. — "Both stories are prettily told, and we feel assured 
 that these modest poems will command a large circle of readers. ' Aliph 
 Cheem ' is so well-known to the Indian public through his ' Lays of Ind,' 
 that anything from his pen requires but few words of recommendation 
 from us ; but in his present poems he has opened a new mine, and we 
 are mistaken if the public do not agree with us in thinking that he has 
 hit upon a vein of rich metal." 
 
 States7nan. — "We have already seen how 'Aliph Cheem' can use 
 his pen for good-natured satire and racy fun, and are now presented with 
 a couple of poems of a deeper vein. The plaintive strain in these pro- 
 longed ballads, for such the poems are, is maintained without a break 
 from the first stanza to the last." 
 
 Islington News. — "'Aliph Cheem,' the poet who received the com- 
 mendation of the entire Press, both of England and India, upon his 
 former work, has written the above volume, which comprises two love 
 stories of an Idyllic yet striking character. ... At the present time, when 
 there is so much versification, which is not only inelegant but unintel- 
 ligible, it is gratifying to have a book placed in our hands for review that 
 is clear in style, and displays a genuine poetic instinct from the first page 
 to the last." 
 
 W. Thacker c^ Co., London, Thacker, Spink 6^ Co., Calcutta. 
 
The Steeplechase Horse. ix 
 
 In Crown 8vo., 7^-. dd. 
 THE 
 
 STEEPLECHASE HORSE 
 
 How to Select, Train and Eide Him. 
 
 WITH NOTES ON ACCIDENTS AND DISEASES, 
 AND THEIR TREATMENT. 
 
 By CAPT. J. HUMFREY. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 Sporting Life.—'' Under this title we have to notice a very useful and 
 interesting volume, evidently the work of a practical pen. The subject- 
 matter applies principally to Indian experiences, but is for the most part 
 applicable to the selection, education, and management of the horse in 
 any country. The treatment of equine ailments is also set forth in plain 
 
 language. 
 
 "With these remarks we feel justified in heartily commending the book, 
 
 and its perusal cannot fail to repay." 
 
 Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News.—'' The following anecdote is an 
 admirable specimen of what ingenuity and determination can accomplish. 
 It is borrowed from an excellent little volume by Captain Humfrey, 
 entitled, ' The Steeplechase,' a treatise which though primarily intended 
 for Indian readers, may be studied with advantage by all who care to 
 know what a practical judge has to say upon the subject." 
 
 W. Thacker (2^' Co., Lo?idoti. Thacker, Spink 6- Co., Cakiitta. 
 
 S 2 
 
Malaria : Us Causes and its Effects. 
 
 In Demy 8vo., xds. 
 
 MALARIA: 
 
 ITS CAUSES AND ITS EFFECTS; 
 AND 
 
 INJURIES OF THE SPLEEN 
 
 By E. G. RUSSELL, M.B., B.Sc. Lond., 
 
 Surgeon, Bengal Medical Service. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 The Lancet. — "In the present volume Dr. Russell discusses most 
 exhaustively the subject of malaria and its effects, and the work should 
 be read by all who are liable to be called upon to treat the conditions to 
 which it gives rise. The chapter which describes the malarial lesions of 
 the stomach and liver will perhaps be read with most interest by the 
 English practitioner. Dr. Russell offt- rs a useful hint not to mistake severe 
 dyspepsia and gastric irritability associated with pale diarrhoea arising from 
 too constant and prolonged a residence in malarious regions for hepatic 
 disease induced by ' free living ' — a caution the more needed since, we 
 fear, all dyspeptic troubles occurring in old Indians are apt to be regarded 
 as due ' to liver ' provoked by unlimited brandy pawnee, hot curries, and 
 tropical suns. Dr. Russell ably discusses the relationship between ague 
 and typhoid — a question that has been raised by Sir Joseph Fayrer. . . . 
 The second part of the volume is devoted to an analysis of fifty ca^-es of 
 injury of the spleen. These injuries, from the frequency of their occurrence, 
 and the importance of their medico-legal bearings, are of peculiar interest 
 to the medical practitioner in India, but their consideration need not detain 
 us at present. We therefore leave Dr. Russell's volume, commending it 
 to the notice of our readers as a book full of facts and of clinical research, 
 and which must be considered as an authority on the subject of malaria." 
 
 The Maiical Press and Circular. — "The appearance of this work is 
 opportune at this time, when the subject of fevers in relation to climate 
 in India is obtaining special attention. The author, from his position as 
 civil surgeon of Kamrup in Assam, had ample opportunities of practically 
 studying his subject, for the district of which that station is the centre is 
 noted for its malarious character, and for the prevalence of malarial 
 disease, including 'fever and its sequelae, dysentery, diarrhoea, and cholera.' 
 But besides the results of his personal observations, he summarises the 
 views of recognised authorities on his subject, and thus presents to his 
 readers a convenient epitome of previous investigations. His work is of 
 considerable merit, and deserves to be extensively read." 
 
 Thacker, Spink 6^ Co., Calcutta. W. Thacker d^' Co.., Lojidon. 
 
Medical Treatment of Childrefi in I?idia. xi 
 
 Entirely Re-written. Seventh Edition. Crown 8vo., \os. 6d. 
 
 GOODEVE'S HINTS 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 MANAGEMENT AND MEDICAL TREATMENT 
 CHILDREN IN INDIA. 
 
 Re-written by EDWARD A. BIRCH, M.D., 
 
 SURGEON-MAJOK, BENGAL ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 Dr. Goodeve. — " I have no hesitation in saying, that the present edition 
 is for many reasons superior to its predecessors. It is written very carefully, 
 and with much knowledge and experience on the author's part, whilst it 
 possesses the great advantage of bringing up the subject to the present 
 level of Medical Science." 
 
 The Medical Times and Gazette, in an article upon this work and 
 Moore's ' Family Medicine for India,' says — " New editions of these two 
 well-known works have recently appeared. They are both intended to 
 supply in some measure the medical wants of our numerous countrymen 
 in India, who may be either far from professional help, in emergencies of 
 sickness or of accident, or destitute of medical advice regarding the proper 
 management of their own health, and especially that of their children, in 
 the trying climate of Hindostan. Although we are, as a rule, very much 
 opposed to popular medical instruction, believing that the result is most 
 frequently a minimum of serviceable knowledge along with a vast prepon- 
 derance of what is but partial, misleading, and dangerous, yet the peculiar 
 circumstances of many of our countrymen in India, together with the 
 special and insidious dangers of its varying climate, fully justify the publi- 
 cation of a few trustworthy popular works to warn the unwary new-comer, 
 before it be too late, of the dangers he has to encounter, and to give 
 judicious counsel to solitary individuals and families who cannot enjoy the 
 advantages of personal professional advice. Moreover, the two works 
 before us are in themselves probably about the best examples of medical 
 works written for non-professional readers. The style of each is simple, 
 and as fi-ee as possible from technical expressions. The modes of treat- 
 ment recommended are generally those most likely to yield good results 
 in the hands of laymen ; and throughout each volume the important fact 
 is kept constantly before the mind of the reader, that the volume he is 
 using is but a poor substitute for personal professional advice, for which it 
 must be discarded whenever there is the opportunity. Written with such 
 objects, and in such a spirit, these volumes cannot fail to be of the greatest 
 service ; and that they are appreciated is shown by the rapid appearance of 
 successive editions, the second mentioned and elder treatise having now 
 reached the seventh edition. We would add, that although they are 
 specially written for lay readers, there are few young medical officers pro- 
 ceeding to India who would not receive several useful hints from these 
 unpretentious volumes. But it is to parents or to the guardians of 
 European children in India that they must be of pre-eminent service." 
 
 Thacker^ Spink c5^' Co.^ Calcutta. W. Thacker 6^ Co., London. 
 
The Races of Afghanis/an. 
 
 In 8vo., price 7^. 6d. 
 THE 
 
 RACES OF AFGHANISTAN 
 
 BEING A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE 
 
 PRINCIPAL NATIVE TRIBES INHABITING 
 THAT COUNTRY. 
 
 By surgeon-major H. W. BELLEW, CS.L, 
 
 Late on Political Duty at Kabul. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 The Examiner. — ** If Lord Harrington wants to begin to understand 
 the problem he has to deal with in Afghanistan, he should take down 
 with him to the House of Commons this new book by Dr. Bellew. . . . 
 Dr. Bellew perceived, by the ignorant comments of speakers and writers 
 on the Afghan question, how very much some book was needed to 
 enlighten the understandings of public instructors ; and, therefore, amid 
 the multifarious duties he had to fulfil at Cabul, he set himself to produce 
 a work which does not err on the side of elaborateness, but which yet 
 contains ample information to keep journalists and members of Parliament 
 and platform orators from vain babblings on this intricate subject. . . . 
 The resume of the history of the Afghans, 'including a chapter summarising 
 our relations with the country, leads naturally up to the story of the life 
 of Shere Ali, which results in the conclusion that the Afghan ' is not 
 fit to govern either himself or others, and sadly wants a master. If we 
 don't take up that role, Russia will. For a master the Afghans want, 
 and a master they must have, sooner or later ' . . . An admirable index 
 increases the value of the work." 
 
 Indian Alail. — ** This short book is of considerable merit, and ought to 
 seriously influence the judgment of those who have assumed the direction 
 of England's affairs. Its value lies in the preciseness of the information 
 given, its clear and methodical arrangement, and its trustworthiness, from 
 the acknowledged ability and absolute knowledge of the subject possessed 
 by the author. Dr. Bellew is not a political speculator but a serious 
 scholar, who has spent many years among and in connection with the 
 people of Afghanistan ; he speaks their languages with ease, is well read 
 in the history and literature of the country, and enjoys the confidence of 
 the tribesmen. . . . Dr. Bellew's book will be read with considerable 
 interest, both as a valuable contribution to ethnography and as a guide 
 in the maze in which politicians have lost themselves." 
 
 Thacker., Spink &> Co., Calcutta. W. Thacker &> Co., Londo?i. 
 
The Bengal Directory. xiii 
 
 In thick Royal 8vo., price £\ i6j. Published Annually. 
 
 THACKER'S DIRECTORY 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 BENGAL PRESIDENCY, 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 THE NORTH-WEST AND CENTRAL PROVINCES, 
 
 THE PUNJAB, RAJPOOTANA STATES, OUDE, 
 
 AND BRITISH BURMAH. 
 
 The increasing demand for each year's issue has proved the value of this Work to 
 the official and mercantile communities throughout India. The leading features are — 
 
 Lists of every British and principal Native Resident throughout the Presidency, with 
 their several professions and occupations. 
 
 Of all Mercantile Firms, with the names of their partners, assistants, and home agents. 
 
 Of Merchants, Traders, and Agents throughout the country districts. 
 
 Of all Public Companies, with the fullest particulars regarding them. 
 
 Of Tea Gardens, Indigo and Jute Concerns, and Silk Filatures ; their Proprietors, 
 Managers, Assistants, and Agents, as also the Marks employed upon their Chests, &c. 
 
 Of the Civil and Military Services ; with the amount of salary enjoyed by each employ^, 
 thus indicating his social position. 
 
 A Classified Trades Directory for Calcutta. 
 
 And, finally, a large amount of Miscellaneous Information of a commercial and general 
 character. 
 
 The districts respecting which this information is furnished are the most extensive and 
 commercially important ever presented in one \olume ; and some conception of the labour 
 be.>-towed upon its compilation, and the value of the results, may be obtained from the 
 partial enumeration of the localities which are embraced in the work: — 
 Bengal Calcutta, Cuttack, Dacca, Darjeeling, Pubna, Canning, Patna, 
 
 Midnapore, Moorshedaljad, Rungpore, &c. 
 N. W. PKOViNCfcS Agra, Allahabad, Benares, Cawnpore, Aliyghur, Bareilly, 
 
 Jhansie, Goruckpore, Banda, &c. 
 Central Provinces.. .Nagpore, Mhow, Indore, Raepore, Hyderabad, Secun- 
 
 derabad, S:c. 
 Punjab .Delhi, Mecrut, Lahore, Simla, Jullundhur, Peshawur, IMooItan, 
 
 Kohat, Umballa, &c. 
 
 Assam Luckimpore, Nowgong, Seebsaugor, and all other Tea Districts. 
 
 Rajpootana States. . .Ajmere, Neemuch, Serohie, &c. 
 
 OuDE Lucknow, Fyzabad, Gondo, Baraitch, &c. 
 
 British Burmah Akyab, Bassein, Moulmein, Rangoon, &c. 
 
 The information from all these places has been most carefully prepared, and is so 
 arranged that references can be made with the greatest facility. 
 
 Thacker, Spink 6^ Co., Calcutta. IV. Thacker d^ Co., London. 
 
xiv Indian Publications, 
 
 Eighth Edition. Post 8vo., 14^. 
 
 INDIAN DOMESTIC ECONOMY AND 
 
 RECEIPT BOOK. Comprising Numerous Directions for Plain and 
 Wholesome Cookery, both Oriental and English, and much miscel- 
 laneous matter connected with Household Affairs likely to be 
 immediately required by Families, Messes, and Private Individuals 
 residing at the Presidencies or Out Stations. By Dr. R. Riddell. 
 
 In Crown 8vo., *js. 
 
 THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK: A 
 
 Practical Handbook to the Kitchen in India, adapted to the Three 
 Presidencies ; containing original and approved Recipes in every 
 Department of Indian Cookery ; Recipes for Summer Beverages and 
 Home-made Liqueurs ; Medicinal and other Recipes ; together with 
 a variety of things worth knowing. By a Thirty-five Years' 
 Resident. 
 
 In i8mo., 3 J. dd. 
 
 THE INDIAN READY- RECKONER. 
 
 Containing Tables for ascertaining the value of any number of Articles, 
 &c., from 3 pies to 5 rupees ; also Tables of Wages, from 4 annas to 
 25 rupees, and other useful Tables. By Capt. A. T. Spens. 
 
 New Edition, in 8vo., 2^. 
 
 A MANUAL OF GARDENING FOR 
 
 BENGAL AND UPPER INDIA. By T. A. Firminger. 
 Royal 8vo., \2s. 6d. 
 
 RURAL LIFE IN BENGAL. Illustrative 
 
 of Anglo-Indian Suburban Life ; the Habits of the Rural Classes ; the 
 varied Products of the Soil and Seasons ; and the Culture and Manu- 
 facture of Indigo. By C. Grant. Illustrated by 166 Engravings by 
 the Author. 
 
 By the same Author. Second Edition. (In the Press.) 
 
 ANGL O - INDIAN DO ME SI IC LIFE. 
 
 Descriptive of European Life in Calcutta. Most profusely Illustrated 
 by the Author. New Edition, re-written. 
 
 T/iacker, Spink 6^ Co., Calcutta. W. Thacker cn Co., London. 
 
I7idia7i Puhlicatio7is. 
 
 Third Edition. Royal 8vo., £1 los. 
 
 MANUAL OF SURVEYING for INDIA. 
 
 Detailing the Mode of Operation on the Trigonometrical, Topographi- 
 cal, and Revenue Surveys of India. By General Sir H. L. Thuillier 
 and Colonel Smyth. Adopted also m the Survey of New Zealand. 
 
 Royal 8yo., elegantly bound, ;i^i ioj. 
 
 THE SOVEREIGN PRINCES AND 
 
 CHIEFS OF CENTRAL INDIA. By G. R. Aberigh-Mackay, 
 Principal, Residency (Rajcoomar) College, Indore, Central India. 
 Illustrated with Portraits and Views. Volume I. Royal 8vo., cloth, 
 extra gilt, and gilt top. 
 
 In Two Volumes. Crown 8vo. (In the Press.) 
 
 MALCOLM.—A MEMOIR OF CENTRAL 
 
 INDIA, including Malwa and adjoininij Provinces, with the History, 
 and Copious Illustrations, of the Past and Present Conditions of that 
 Country. By Major-General Sir John Malcolm, G.C.B., K.L.S. 
 Reprinted from the Third Edition. In two vols., crown 8vo. 
 
 8vo., sewed, 5^-. 
 
 COMPLETE LIST OF INDIAN TEA 
 
 GARDENS AND COMPANIES, COFFEE ESTATES, SILK 
 FILATURES, SUGAR AND LAC FACTORIES, INDIGO 
 CONCERNS, AND CINCHONA PLANTATIONS. Their 
 Capital, Directors, Agents, &c., and their FACTORY MARKS, 
 by which their Chests may be recognised. 
 
 In 8vo., 1 8s. 
 
 MERGES.— TABLES OF EXCHANGE. 
 
 A New Edition, showing the Conversion of English Money into 
 Indian Currency and vice versa, calculated for every i6th of a Penny, 
 from I J. 5^. to 2s. 2td. per Rupee. By F. A. D' Merges. 
 
 8vo., sewed, 3^-. 6d. 
 
 THE MEMOIR of the LATE JUSTICE 
 
 ONOOCOOL CHUNDER MOOKERJEE. A Verbatim reprint 
 of a remarkable Biography of a Native Gentleman by a Native j 
 vividly illustrating Hindoo Life and Character. 
 
 Thacker^ Spink &> Co., Calcutta. IV. Thacker 6- Co., LcndoJi. 
 
vVeOster Family Library of Vetennary Modioifli 
 
 Cummings School of Veterinary Medidndfll 
 
 1 uTts University 
 
 200 Westboro Road 
 
 Morth Grafton W A 01536 
 
.'tlw^^