THE FARM , GARDEN , &c 
 
 PART fII.„THE S'li^LE. 
 
ju /-^ - ^ 
 
 11 
 
 JOHNA.SEAVERNS 
 
THE FAEM, GAEDEN, &c, 
 
 PART III.— THE STABLE. 
 
THE 
 
 FARM, GARDEN, STABLE, 
 AND AVIARY. 
 
 PART III.-THE STABLE, 
 
 EDITED BY " I. E. B. 0." 
 
 EDITOR OF "facts AND USEFUL HINTS RELATING TO FISHING AND SHOOTING, 
 "THE COUNTET HOUSE," "ANGLEB'S DIABT," &C., &C. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 HORACE COX, 346, STRAND, W.C. 
 
 1871. 
 
LONDON ; 
 i^RlNTED BY HORACE COX, 346, STRAND, W.C. 
 
THE FARM, GARDEN, STABLE, 
 AND AVIARY. 
 
 PART III. THE STABLE. 
 
 CARRIAGES' 
 
 MANAQEMENT OF CARRIAGES. 
 
 Me. R. Stagey, of Nottingliani, says : " The coach-house should 
 be airy and dry, with a moderate amount of light, otherwise the 
 colours will be destroyed. There should be no communication 
 between the stable and the coach-house ; and 'the manm^e heap or 
 pit should always be kept as far away as possible, as ammonia 
 causes the varnish to crack, and the colours both of painting and 
 lining to fade. Moreover, the doors should be provided with fasten- 
 ings to prevent their being blown to with the wind. 
 
 '•'Whenever a carriage stands for days together it should have on 
 it a large linen cover, of such a substance as will keep off the dust 
 without excluding the light ; for dust, when allowed to settle on a 
 carnage, eats into the varnish. Care should always be taken to 
 keep the linen cover dry. When a carriage is new or has- been 
 newly-painted, it is better to let it stand a few weeks before being 
 used. It will, however, even then stain or spot ; and care should 
 therefore be taken to remove the mud before it dries on, or as soon 
 afterwards as possible. A carriage should never, under any circum- 
 stances be put away dirty. When washing a carriage keep out of 
 the sun. Have the lever end of the 'setts' covered with leather. 
 Use plenty of water, which apply (where practicable) with a hose or 
 syringe, taking great care that the water is not driven into the body 
 of the carriage to the injury of the lining. When forced water is 
 not attainable, use for the body a large soft sponge. This, when 
 saturated, squeeze over the panels, and by the flow down of the 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 water the dirt will soften and run harmlessly off ; then finish \vith a 
 soft chamois-leather and an old silk handkerchief. The same remarks 
 apply to the underworks and wheels, except that when the mud is 
 "well soaked, a soft mop, free from any hard substance in the head, 
 may be used. Never use a spoke-brush, which, in conjunction with 
 the grit from the road, acts like sand-paper on the varnish, scratch- 
 ing it, and of course effectually removing all gloss. If persisted in, 
 it will rub off the varnish and paint down to the wood. Never 
 allow water to dry itself on a carriage, as it will invariably leave 
 stains. 
 
 " To remove spots or stains, a few drops of furniture polish, reviver, 
 or even linseed oil, rubbed on with a dab made of woollen rags (using 
 as little of the fluid as possible) will generally suffice. If the panels 
 are very badly stained, nothing but a regular flatting down and 
 hand-polishing, or even revarnishing, will be effectual. Patent 
 leather may be easily revived in the same way. 
 
 " Enamelled leather heads and aprons should be washed with soap 
 and water, and then very lightly rubbed with linseed oil. In clean- 
 ing brass or silver, no acid, mercury, or grit should be used ; the 
 polish should be obtained solely by friction. 
 
 " To prevent or destroy moths in woollen linings, use turpentine 
 and camphor. In a close carriage, the evaporation from this mix- 
 ture, when placed in a saucer, and the glasses up, is a certain cure. 
 
 "'Be careful to grease the bearings of the fore-carriage so as to 
 allow it to turn freely. If it turns with diflSculty, the shafts or pole 
 will probably strain or break. 
 
 ''Examine a carriage occasionally, and whenever a bolt or clip 
 appears to be getting loose, tighten it up with a wrench. Always 
 have little repairs done at once. Should the tires of the wheels get 
 at all slack, so that the joints of the felloes are seen, have them 
 immediately contracted, or the wheels will be permanently injured. 
 Keep a small bottle of black japan and a brush always handy, to 
 paint the treads and steps when worn by the feet ; nothing makes a 
 carriage look more tidy than this. Lay it on as thinly as possible. 
 Never draw out or back a carriage into a coach-house with the 
 horses attached : more accidents occur from this than any other 
 cause. Headed carriages should never be allowed to stand with the 
 head down ; and aprons of every kind should be frequently unfoldt3d, 
 or they will soon spoil. As a general rule, a carriage retains its 
 freshness better with gentle work than if standing for long periods 
 in a coach-house. If not used frequently, draw it out from the 
 coach-house occasionally to giv^e it an airing." 
 
MOTHS IN CAREIAGES. 
 
 It is non-use which induces moths. The cushions, &c.. should be 
 often exposed to air, and brushed. Sprinkling with camphor-water 
 is recommended, and putting bits of camphor in the cushions and 
 linings. But especially take care that the coach-house be free from 
 all lumber, and let the house be frequently whitewashed, with 
 sulphur mixed in the wash. 
 
 DISEASES. 
 
 ALBUMINUEIA. 
 
 Administer night and morning in a bran mash a drachm of finely- 
 powdered sulphate of iron. 
 
 ALOES. 
 
 The proper dose for a horse is 5drs. 
 
 ALTEEATR'E POWDER. 
 
 No. 1. — Equal parts of nitre, sulphur, and cream of tartar, and 
 one half part of black antimony, and the same of powdered ginger, 
 well mixed together, and kept rammed down tight in a jar, and a 
 table-spoonful given once a week in a feed of mash. If the anti- 
 mony is added it must be used with caution as it opens the pores, 
 and renders the animal susceptible of cold, and should therefore be 
 only added in warm weather, or when specialh^ required to act upon 
 the skin, upon which the effects are soon visible ; and indeed it is 
 well not to give the powder at all before or after very hard work. 
 
 No. 2. — Take of Barbadoes aloes l^oz., sulphur 3oz., ginger -^-oz., 
 linseed meal ^oz., mix the meal with boiling water, and add the 
 other ingredients. Then make into six or eight balls. 
 
 No. 3. — Give ^oz. liquor arsenicalis daily over a feed of corn. 
 
 No. 4. — Give -Jdr. calomel and ^dr. of tartar emetic. 
 
 BAD FEEDEE. 
 
 Give the horse three hours walking exercise every day, viz., two 
 hours in the mornmg and one in the evening. If he does not take 
 his feed remove it at once. Horses from grass will often eat hay 
 and corn damped and sprinkled with salt, when they will not eat 
 either in their ordinary state. Take care also that the stable is not 
 too warm, which often is the cause of horses from grass losing their 
 appetites. 
 
 White sugar improves the appetite. Horses are very fond of it. 
 
 b2 
 
But it is best to give a cordial ball, or from half a drachm to a 
 drachm of the sulphate of quinine daily after exercise, in a pint or 
 more of beer or porter, for a week or ten days. 
 
 Again : On coming in from exercise in the morning, and before 
 they are fed, let your groom take a handful of common salt, and 
 with gentleness open the horse's mouth, and let the roof of the 
 mouth be with equal gentleness rubbed with the salt, not so hard as 
 to occasion abrasion of the skin, but still sufficiently so as to give 
 the horse a fair taste. 
 
 Some advise to give the horse carrots, or a few raw potatoes or 
 turnips daily, and he will recover his appetite. Carrots are the best. 
 Again : Procure a small quantity of the herb called rue ; bind this 
 round the bit of the bridle with a piece of good twine, so that the 
 horse may champ on it during the time he is out. Allow him to 
 drink a little water (say twice or three times during the day, as 
 opportunity offers) ; a few " go-downs" will suffice, just sufficient to 
 wash the saliva into the stomach, and also do this after returning 
 home, before the bridle is taken out. It acts as a good tonic, and 
 generally, if not always, has the desired effect. 
 
 Or administer tonics, both vegetable and mineral, together with 
 glycerine, one of the constituents of fat, mixed in the water the 
 animal drinks ; they increase the appetite, and give stamina to the 
 animal frame. 
 
 Again : Put barley in a glazed pan and just cover it with boiling 
 water. Let it soak twelve hours, when mix some molasses with it, 
 so as to make a stiffish pudding. Only give a feed occasionally. 
 
 Some put into water 1-i-lb. of broken oil cake, a gallon of water 
 to a pound of cake ; stir frequently, and give the horse the liquor 
 only daily with his chaff and corn. 
 
 Others give daily a ball containing Idr. of sulphate of irOn, twenty 
 grains of powdered capsicum, and half an ounce of gentian, with a 
 sufficient quantity of honey to make a mass. Some artificial food 
 added to bruised oats, with a little bran and chaff, may tempt the 
 animal to eat, or you may try the plan of giving soup made by 
 boiling shank bones with enough water to make a strong jelly, 
 which should be mixed with bran to fomi balls ; these are to be put 
 into the horse's mouth twice or three times a day, until he acquires 
 a taste for the mixture. 
 
 BALLS, TO GIVE. 
 
 Where great difficulty is experienced in giving a horse a ball, and 
 you do not wish to throw him, get a good large truss of hay, and. 
 
bind it very fast at the two ends, where the hayband is, with two 
 halters, so as to prevent its coming to pieces. Then, with a third 
 rope, or halter, hang the truss round the horse's neck, so that the 
 bottom of it is Gin. from the ground. As he cannot rear or strike 
 out with his feet, from the weight of the hay round his neck, and 
 the cord cutting on his withers, you will (after, perhaps, a jump or 
 so) frighten him till he stands still. 
 
 BICARBONATE OF POTASH. 
 
 The usual dose for a horse is 2drs. once a day. 
 
 BINIODIDE OF MERCURY OINTMENT. 
 
 The ointment should be composed of biniodide of mercury, 2drs. ; 
 lard, loz. This is a good remedy for splints, curbs, ringbones, 
 thorough-pins, and, above all, diseased knees. Every person making 
 use of biniodide of mercury should keep it in a glass-stopped bottle, 
 and never mix until immediately before use. On the following day 
 apply soft soap, rubbing it on gently with the hand, or if the horse 
 will not allow rubbing, it may be plastered on like a charge. Leave 
 it there until it falls off itself. Be sure to purchase the biniodide at 
 a first-rate druggist's. The ointment may of course be made of any 
 strength from ^dr. of biniodide to loz. lard, up to the above pre- 
 scription. 
 
 BLEEDING AT THE NOSE. 
 
 Unless the bleeding from the nose cause faintness, it is not ad- 
 visible to aiTest it ; but if it becomes necessary to do this, dashing 
 cold water on the head is the safest and most effectual treatment. 
 Under no circumstances should the nostrils be plugged : if the horse 
 should elevate his head, there would be a great risk incun-ed of 
 suffocation by a rush of blood. On this account, it is not safe to 
 tie the head up while the bleeding continues. The best position for 
 the head is that of the natural line of the neck, and the halter 
 should be so adjusted as to leave the animal free to assume this 
 position, and at the same time to prevent him getting the head too 
 low, which would favour the haemorrhage. Preventive treatment 
 should be principally directed to the maintenance of moderate 
 condition, and the avoidance of plethora. The animal should be 
 prevented feeding off the ground. In the matter of exercise care 
 should be taken to improve the pace by degrees. Food and water 
 should be withheld immediately before a hard gallop. Medicines 
 are of little use in such cases. If, however, the subject is plethoric, 
 
6 
 
 cooling and laxative medicines will be beneficial ; if he is suffering 
 from debility, tonics and astringents will be required. In the first 
 case four to six ounces of sulphate of magnesia dissolved in water 
 may be given every second day for a week or two ; and in the second 
 instance a drachm of sulphate of iron, with half a drachm of dilute 
 sulphuric acid, may be administered daily in a pint of water or 
 good ale. 
 
 BOTS. 
 
 Keep the animal from food and drink for twelve hours ; on the 
 following morning give a couple of quarts of warm milk, sweetened 
 with treacle, and in about an hour afterwards drench the horse with 
 a strong dose of Glauber's salts (warmj ; he will bring away the 
 bots. If necessary repeat the dose. 
 
 Again : Give a ball composed of tartar emetic 2drs., ginger 15grs., 
 Barbadoes aloes Idr., syrup enough to make a ball ; and next day 
 give a pint of linseed oil as a drench. This double dose may be 
 repeated once a week till the bots are supposed to be destroyed. 
 
 BRITTLE HOOF, 
 
 Dress the horse's feet both inside and out with the following 
 compound : lib. of Barbadoes tar, lib. of Burgundy pitch, lib. of 
 soft soap, lib. of hog's lard, and lib. of bees '-wax. Boil in a 
 pipkin, over a slow fire, stirring meanwhile until well mixed, and let 
 it stand until cold before using. During the heat of the summer, 
 exercise the horse every morning on the grass while the dew is 
 upon it. 
 
 Eemove the shoes, and turn out to grass. Whilst in the stable 
 put into the horn daily a mixture of tar and olive oil in equal 
 parts. 
 
 BROKEN KNEES. 
 
 Slight injuries, implicating only the skin and hair, may be left 
 almost untouched, save by cold water for the purpose of preventing 
 swelling of the limb. If the skin is cut nearly or quite through, 
 without the internal tissues being injured, a little tincture of myrrh 
 upon cotton wool, or even the dry cotton, will protect the part from 
 the action of the air, and be, in most instances, a sufficient dressing. 
 Should the wound be lacerated and extensive, the interrupted suture 
 may be employed to bring the edges of the cut as nearly in contact 
 as possible before the dressing is applied, and a bandage will then be 
 proper to assist in retaining the parts together. Every wound 
 whether slight or extensive, should be well washed with warm water, 
 and, if necessary, syringed, to remove any particles of dirt. 
 
Severe Avounds of the knee are best treated on the same plan as 
 extensive wounds in other parts. Inflammation is certain to occur, 
 and therefore frequent fomentation with warm water and water 
 dressing will be necessary ; a dose of physic, with low diet for the 
 first week, will also materially assist the cure. The wound can only 
 be healed in the ordinary way by granulation ; and to facilitate this 
 process every care should be taken to avoid unnecessary irritation to 
 the parts, and all means should be used to preserve the animal's 
 health. 
 
 Under the most favourable circumstances severe cases of broken 
 knees will require long-continued treatment — not less in duration, 
 certainly, than six weeks or two months ; and as for the gi-eater 
 portion of this period the horse will be compelled to stand, some 
 kind of support will be necessary. Slings are, on many accounts, 
 objectionable ; but the exercise of a little ingenuity will enable a 
 carpenter to fit up something in a stall or box to prop the animal up 
 without subjecting him to much restraint. It is also important 
 during the treatment to prevent the motion of the joint, and for this 
 purpose a piece of gutta percha, or a portion of an old trace, may be 
 attached in the manner of a splint to the back of the leg, and 
 retained by a bandage above and below, leaving the middle part, 
 where the wound is, free, so that any dressings applied to it shall 
 not interfere with the fastenings of the splint, which should not 
 be disturbed for a considerable time. After the healing is nearly 
 completed, a tight bandage may be used to get rid of any excess of 
 granulation, or caustic may be applied to the edges of the wound for 
 the same purpose, and the enlargement of the joint, which will 
 remain after the cicatrisation is perfect, may be reduced by the use 
 of the biniodide of mercury ointment as previously suggested. 
 
 The above is, in our opinion, the most sensible way of treating 
 broken knees. We subjoin, however, several receipts said to be 
 efficacious by the persons who have used them. 
 
 Carefully wash the wounds clean from all dirt and grit, and well 
 bathe them with wann water and plenty of soft soap, working a fine 
 lather round and round, and over and over the wounded parts with 
 the hand, but as gently as possible; taking the greatest care to 
 work the hair downwards and not upwards, and always finishing by 
 drawing the lather to the centre, and leaving a good heap of it over 
 the wound. This should be done several times a day for the first 
 few days, reducing it to three or fom- times a day, and then twice a 
 day ; and in a fortnight or so a scab will have formed over the 
 parts (which must by no means be removed till it comes off of itself), 
 
8 
 
 under wliicli the cuts will be found to have healed, and the hair to 
 be growing. The longer this outside scale can be kept on the better. 
 Great care should be bestowed upon the even and natural growth of 
 the young hair afterwards, and knee-caps be avoided. 
 
 Again : sprinkle over the wound, daily, a composition consisting 
 of equal parts of powdered alum, sulphate of iron, and myrrh. The 
 powder must not be washed off until the wounds have perfectly 
 healed, when, to promote the growth of hair, apply a blister consist- 
 ing either of the blistering-fly or the biniodide of mercury. 
 
 Sometimes, in very mild cases, the hair, when growing again, 
 runs lighter in colour towards the roots ; in this case bring all the 
 hair off by a mild blister, such as James's, or by iodine ointment. 
 The hair grows again in a few weeks, and will then be all of the same 
 colour. Whilst the hair is growing use plenty of hand-rubbing 
 down the knee, not up. 
 
 Some people recommend the tincture of marigold (Calendula 
 officincdis) as a good specific. Carefully cleanse the wound and apply 
 lint saturated with the tincture, wrapping over all some oil-skin. 
 The limb must be kept constantly moist. 
 
 Mr. J. Brown, M.E.O.V.S., London, writes that he has found the 
 following powder very efficacious in the healing of wounds of the 
 knee of the horse, caused by falling : — R. hydrarg. bichlorid, loz. ; 
 pulv. zinci sulph., pulv. alumin., bol. armen., fia 1 oz. M. ''I em- 
 ploy," he says, ''no bandages nor any kind of compress over the 
 wound, as I consider that these rather retard than otherwise the 
 healing process. By the treatment I advocate, an eschar is soon 
 produced on the surface of the wound, and under it the healing 
 process quickly goes on. After cleansing the wounds thoroughly 
 from all extraneous matter, such as dirt or gravel, sprinkle the parts 
 over with the powder, place the horse in a loose box, and put on 
 a mash diet. On the following day give an aperient. By this 
 treatment an eschar is soon produced on the surface of the 
 wound, and the suppurative process goes steadily on. Eemove 
 the pus by gently pressing with a sponge without removing the 
 eschar. 
 
 Again : In the first instance apply, for two days, bran poultices ; 
 after which, for a week, light linen bandages, kept continuall}^ moist 
 with cold water ; and, when the wounds are perfectly healed, then 
 apply a blister of the biniodide of mercury. If the knees are 
 deeply cut, after the application of poultices, cover the wounds 
 copiously with a compound consisting of equal parts of powdered 
 myrrh, alum, and sulphate of iron. 
 
BROOD MARES AND FOALS. 
 
 Never breed from a weed; take care that they have plenty of 
 back ribs, and they cannot be too deep in the girth. The height 
 is of no consequence; a brood mare should never be too fat, though 
 she must always be kept well. 
 
 Mares in foal should be fed regularly : the feed of corn or boiled 
 food being rather under than over the ordinaiy allowance. Bean 
 and pea straw should not be given, unless this fodder is the food 
 which the mare has been accustomed to during the whole winter ; 
 and even in such case a small allowance of hay given at midday 
 or in the evening, is always advisable. When bean-straw only forms 
 a part of the fodder — namely, in the spring months — the mares in 
 foal should be continued on wheat or oat straw; still better, a 
 portion of the fodder should be rye-grass hay. Hoven and colic 
 are generally induced by feeding wholly on bean or pea straw — 
 frequently injuring the colt, and sometimes causing abortion. These 
 derangements of the organs are also occasionally brought on by 
 feeding with bean-meal, raw potatoes, or Swedish turnip. To keep 
 the digestive organs in a proper state, bran mashes are the most 
 suitable. Near the period of parturition these may be allowed 
 twice a-day, although one in the twenty-four hours is usuallj^ more 
 advisable. If half a handful of salt is added occasionally, it will 
 give more tone to the system. 
 
 Another and equally common cause of accident to mares in foal 
 is improper working. Mares, for at least three months previous to 
 foaling should not be worked. During wet days, or even showers, 
 they should not be exposed. If the}'' get wet, they should be rubbed 
 dry, and a wai-m mash allowed upon returning to the house. 
 
 The mares should be housed at night all the year round, and if 
 their pasture is rich feed them the last thing before turning out in 
 the morning to prevent them being too eager for the grass. The 
 best hay should be procured. The last week in March or during 
 April is the best time for foaling, though some say you cannot breed 
 too early. Keep the mare's system cool, and give a mash occa- 
 sionally, especially before foaling. 
 
 For at least one month prior to fociling, the mare should be placed 
 in a loose box. This may be formed in the end of an open cattle 
 shed, provided it is made comfortable by boards or straw kept in 
 position by strong bars and common fence railing. The mare 
 should be loose, not tied to anything, and all harness, (fcc, removed 
 during the night to prevent accidents. If the mare is turned out 
 
10 
 
 previous to or after foaling, it should be to a place free of all 
 danger to the foal. 
 
 If no suitable paddock is convenient for the mare and foal, an 
 out-house, or, still better, an open shed, should be set apart for 
 them. 
 
 After the mare shows indications that parturition is at hand, she 
 should be watched, but not disturbed. The most reliable indication 
 is, that at the point of the teats there will be observed a waxy- 
 exudation. Sometimes the milk will drop from the teats ; when 
 this appears, foaling will usually take place mthin forty-eight hours. 
 The mare is seldom long in labour, and the foal is generally dropped 
 when no one is present. The mare should be disturbed as little as 
 possible. Occasionally the foal-bed requires to be broken to allow 
 the foal to breathe. 
 
 The parturition of mares is generally very easy, and they seldom 
 require more assistance than any groom of common acquaintance 
 with such cases can afford. 
 
 After the foal has been dropped and the mare has licked it all 
 over, a bucket of warm gruel should be given to her, and for the 
 first two or three days warm water, with some mashes with bruised 
 corn in them. 
 
 After foaling, the mare will have had her warm drink, she will 
 then have an aperient, four drachms of aloes. 
 
 The foal, if strong, will gain the use of its limbs within two to 
 five hours of being dropped. It readily finds its way to the teats ; 
 sometimes, however, the bag is so tight that the foal does not readily 
 catch the teats. The dam occasionally, from an over exciteability, 
 prevents the foal from sucking ; in such cases the foal should be 
 assisted by drawing a little milk out of the udder, and kept in posi- 
 tion to suck ; and, if essentially requisite, a halter may be put upon 
 the mare to hold her steady for the first and perhaps for the second 
 time the foal sucks. If there is a scarcity of milk, the mare should 
 receive bran mashes, boiled linseed, hay, &c. — anything, indeed, to 
 increase the flow of milk. If this cannot be effected, the foal may 
 be reared on cow milk. 
 
 The mare should be disturbed as little as possible, and persons 
 with whom she is not familiar should not go near her for the first 
 few days. 
 
 On the third day the mare and foal should be allowed to go in 
 and out of the paddock attached to her shed, at will, if the weather 
 is tolerably fine ; but at this early age the foal should be protected 
 from rain, which the woolly coat retains for a long time, and causes 
 
11 
 
 illness. Tliey will not be injured by exposure to cold drying winds^ 
 or in frosty weather by being allowed the use of the paddock in the 
 middle of the day ; and if not let out too early in the morning, or 
 kept out too late in the evening, will advance rapidly in growth 
 and strength. 
 
 From the ninth to the twelfth day the mare should be stinted, 
 and. if possible, the same horse as the sire of the foal should be 
 used. 
 
 The food of the mare after foaling should be soft, to increase the 
 lactic secretion ; and, in the absence of green food, which is by far 
 the best, such as is usually given to farm horses, with an allowance 
 of carrot, turnip, and hay, with at least two half-feeds of dry com 
 daily till abundance of green food is obtained. The change from the 
 dry to the soft food should be gradual. It is advisable not to put 
 the mare upon grass previous to foaling. 
 
 The milk of the mare has always a decided influence over the 
 foal, and will produce, as she is fed, either a laxative or constipated 
 state of bowels. If fed highly on corn and hay only, constipation 
 will be the result to the foal, and if, on the contrary, with too many 
 vegetables of a laxative kind, looseness will follow. It will, there- 
 fore, be necessary to regulate the food of the mare accordingly, 
 without being obliged to adminster physic to the foal, which should 
 not be done unless a very feverish state of body requires it ; a clyster in 
 such cases is the safest and most simple remedy. Should relaxation of 
 the bowels approaching to diarrhoea occur, this may be counteracted 
 by feeding the mare upon dry food only for a day or two, with a few 
 split beans in her corn. In case of eruptions breaking out either 
 upon mare or foal it will be necessary to give sulphur for a day or 
 two in a bran mash ; but during this treatment all exposure to cold 
 or rain must be avoided. Nitre is also an excellent alterative for 
 horses, and can be given either in a ball, or mixed with bran, or 
 dissolved in water. Nitre and sulphur mixed, two parts of the 
 former, with one of the latter, form the best alterative for horses, 
 and which can be given in a bran mash. Sulphur alone is apt to 
 open the pores of the skin too much, and in cold weather may be 
 objectionable. 
 
 The foal will seldom attempt to eat before he is three months old, 
 although some will begin rather sooner than others ; but when once 
 you perceive him able and willing to do so, let him begin his lessons. 
 As soon as the foal shows a disposition to eat com, there should be 
 a low manger appropriated to its own use, apart from that of the 
 mare, and at first some bruised oats with bran may be given. To pre- 
 
12 
 
 Tent the mare interfering with the foal, she should have her feed of 
 com at the same time, and be tied up. Two " feeds " a day will be 
 enough for him, which may be divided into three, or not, at pleasure : 
 these should be composed of bruised oats, bran, and linseed cake 
 pounded fine — not linseed meal, which is of too fattening and oily a 
 nature for him. Take care that his dam does not help him to 
 eat it, which is easily prevented by having a bar across the doorway 
 of the hovel, that the foal may go in under it when the mare 
 cannot. When he is six months old, he will require another feed 
 a day. 
 
 The earlier foals are handled the more tractable they will become ; 
 but there is no necessity for a head collar being put on until they are 
 weaned, and then it should not remain on longer than is necessary to 
 accustom him to the use of it. 
 
 As soon as the weather is tolerably warm, about the end of April, 
 the mare and the foal should have the use of a large field, and be 
 taken up in the evening. When the pasturage is plentiful, a feed of 
 corn in the morning before they are turned out, and in the evening 
 when caught up and consigned to their paddock and shed, will be 
 sufficient. It is of no use to feed foals with over quantities of corn 
 at this early period ; all they require is good and nourishing food. 
 Good heavy oats are the most likely to produce muscle ; and the two 
 feeds of these during the summer, and three or four when the 
 autumn commences, and up to the ensuing spring, will be amply suf- 
 ficient to bring any foal up to a proper standard. Foals may be 
 weaned early or late in the autumn, according to their age, the state 
 of their mother and her milk. 
 
 To get a mare into condition for work and to disperse the milk, 
 keep her cool, and on hard food, with an occasional bran mash con- 
 taining an ounce of nitre. Use plenty of walking exercise, but be 
 careful not to put her to hard work till she is quite clear of milk, 
 and able to bear a fair allowance of corn without injury. A mare 
 with her foal only just weaned takes some months to get into con- 
 dition. If this does not answer, give every other day, in a ball, -^-dr. 
 of iodide of iron. It acts as a tonic, and thus invigorates the system, 
 and also causes the secretion of milk to cease. 
 
 CALLOUS LUMPS ON THE LIMBS. 
 
 Blistering with cantharides or the biniodide ointment would be 
 the most likely means, followed by regular bandaging and cold 
 lotions. Try first, however, a lotion composed of sal ammoniac 2oz., 
 water 2qrts. 
 
13 
 
 CAPPED HOCKS. 
 
 This disease is produced by blows inflicted on the animal's hocks, 
 either by himself during the act of kicking, by slipping down on 
 his haunches, or from lying down on a scanty bed, or no bed at all. 
 In fact, a contusion of any sort occurring on the point of the hock 
 will cause this pathological condition of it. It may arise, in 
 common with tumefaction of other parts, from humour, and some- 
 times, though rarely, from rheumatic inflammation. The disease 
 rarely causes lameness, but by most horsemen it is considered a great 
 eyesore. The chief object in treatment is to get rid of this 
 unsightly enlargement. Eecourse may be had to the application of 
 blisters (the biniodide of mercury, 1 part mercury to 8 parts lard), 
 repeated as often as necessary, together -with small doses of aperient 
 medicine ; hand-rubbing continuously applied ; persistent pressure, 
 either by bandage or by the application of pitch and tar, rubbed in 
 with a brush two or three times per week, thus forming a permanent 
 plaster, and also by cold lotions. 
 
 As a good means of pressure procure from a sadler's a cap of 
 leather made to lace over the hock, and keep it on for two months,. 
 If at all callous rub in once a day " rendered goose fat." 
 
 CAYENNE PEPPER. 
 
 This may be substituted for ginger in balls in 12gr. doses. 
 
 CHAFING. 
 
 Try liquor from a tanyard. Let the liquor be well brushed in, 
 first allowing the skin to get sound. Work with a false collar — '' a 
 simple piece of leather, without any lining or stuffing," worn under 
 the regular collar. Bathe with cold water when the collar is taken 
 off, and cover the sore with wetted fullers' earth. Whether the 
 sore be small or large, it is better, if possible, to rest the animal, 
 and when it has healed bathe the animal's shoulders night and 
 morning with a solution of salt and water (but not where they are 
 sore) ; but if there is a large excoriated sore, attended by local 
 inflammation, then foment, with warm water three times a day. 
 Diminish the allowance of corn (if beans are usually given stop the 
 supply entirely), and in their place give green meat. This, with 
 small doses of aperient medicine, und time, will effect a cure. 
 When the sore is again covered with skin, and the hair begins to 
 grow, bathe with a solution of salt and water. Before putting the 
 horse again to work, see that the harness, &c., is properly adjusted. 
 
14 
 
 Again : Take a common wine-bottle of strong whiskey, and add 
 to it sixpenny worth of good aloes, pounded : shake the bottle well, 
 five or six times the day you make it (and always before using) ; 
 let the part be well sponged with cold soft water, and then the 
 mixture well sopped in with the hand. 
 
 As regards the absence of the hair from the part that was chafed, 
 the application of a little sweet oil to the part night and morning 
 will most probably have the effect ; but if this fail, apply every other 
 day a very little oil of cantharides. During the time of its appli- 
 cation, the horse must not have the collar on, as the oil will act 
 slightly as a blister. After its effects have passed off, the hair most 
 likely will reappear. If, however, the excoriation has gone deep, 
 and actually destroyed the skin, then in that case the hair will 
 never again reappear, as there is nothing for it to grow from. 
 
 Sloughing wounds will require the use of caustic ; a powder com- 
 posed of corrosive sublimate one part to four parts of flour, is excel- 
 lent for the purpose, and ma}'- be sprinkled over the abraded 
 surfaces once a day. Ordinary cases will be best treated by an 
 astringent lotion — solutions of sulphate of zinc, alum, or chloride of 
 zinc are all good applications, and of them the most effectual is 
 chloride of zinc (Sir W. Burnett's disinfecting fluid) in the propor- 
 tion of one part to fifty of water. It can be applied frequently to 
 the shoulders and other parts by means of a sponge. In all cases 
 the animal's condition should be attended to, as emaciated subjects 
 are more likely to suffer from abrasions than fat ones. 
 
 CHEST FOUNDER. 
 
 The various derangements of parts which lead to the result 
 designated " chest founder '■' generally, although not always, appear 
 suddenly. An animal may labour under diseases affecting the diges- 
 tive organs, which from time to time may have been treated and there- 
 fore noticed. Paralysis of muscles from this state of things may 
 set in, when, if the paralysis occurs to the muscles of the fore-arm, 
 the disease is named '•' chest founder." In ''chest founder" both 
 fore-legs are " stiff," and, as it were, '' tied," and in some severe 
 cases the patient is unable to move. By over-work, exposure to 
 cold, or by bad or over-feeding, the system becomes weakened, 
 when devitalisation may finally concentrate itself in the loins, when 
 the disease is called stomach-staggers, or in the fore-arm, when the 
 animal is said to be ''chest foundered," Treatment: Give perfect 
 rest and a nutritious diet ; administer daily two grains of nux 
 vomica. Locally apply stiniulating liniments. 
 
15 
 
 CHOKING. 
 
 Choking in horses is generally attended with violent indications 
 of distress, by his out-stretched neck and frequent abortive attempts 
 to gulp down something, while the saliva flows from the mouth. 
 Occasionally these efforts become spasmodic, the head is drawn into 
 the chest, and again protuded with violent muscular action, and the 
 horse will now and then utter a piercing scream. It may be ascer- 
 tained that an obstruction exists in a part of the oesophagus, where 
 it may be easily manipulated ; but in many instances the agent will 
 have passed too low down to be felt, or will have been arrested at 
 the entrance to the gullet, where it can only be reached by passing 
 the hand into the mouth and carrying it back to the posterior part. 
 
 The best plan is that of gently manipulating the body in a down- 
 ward direction, and occasionally reversing the course of the pressure 
 so as to cause, if possible, the movement of the mass to a new posi- 
 tion. During the time a little oil may at intervals be poured into 
 the mouth ; but care must be taken not to keep the head held up 
 by force. A small portion of the fluid Avill probably run down the 
 swallow ; but the greater part will return through the nostrils, and 
 if this is prevented the superfluous oil will run into the larynx, and 
 not unlikely cause immediate suffocation. 
 
 COAT, TO MAKE A HORSE CAST ITS. 
 
 Give it scalded linseed, with a bran mash twice a week containing 
 loz. of nitre ; also keep it warm in the stable, and take care that 
 the skin is not chilled out of doors. 
 
 COLIC. 
 
 On the appearance of the first symptoms of colic, administer a 
 ball containing 8drs. of aloes, and throw up the rectum warm water 
 enemata every ten minutes until relief is afforded. 
 
 The treatment to be used in the case of colic is recommended as 
 follows in " Stewart's Stable Economy " (where draught horses are 
 kept, this remedy should be always at hand) : '' Take a quart of 
 brandy ; add to it 4oz. of sweet spirit of nitre, 3oz. of whole ginger, 
 and 3oz. of cloves. In eight days this mixture or tincture is ready 
 for use ; the cloves and ginger may still remain in the bottle, but 
 they are not to be given. Set the bottle past, and put a label upon 
 it; call it the 'colic mixture.' The dose is 6oz., to be given in a 
 quart of milk or warm water, every fifteen or twenty minutes, till 
 the horse be cured. Keep his head straight and not too high when it 
 
16 
 
 is given. Rub tlie belly witli a soft wisp, walk tlie liorse about very 
 slowly, or give him a good bed and room to roll. In eigbtj^ cases out 
 of ninety this treatment will succeed, provided the medicine be got 
 over the horse's throat before his bowels become inflamed, or stran- 
 gulated, or burst. The delay of half an hour may be fatal." The 
 following has also been recommended : — Get a bottle of spirit and 
 pour it gradually over the horse from the shoulders along the back to 
 the tail, rubbing it in as quickly as possible. Cloth him then very 
 heavily, keeping him close with a roller, placing haybands round the 
 quarters where the cloths do not touch. This will bring on a pro- 
 fuse perspiration which will cure the horse. 
 
 CONCUSSION. 
 
 Concussion to the head causes loss of consciousness more or less 
 complete, and this is sometimes accompanied with stertorous breath- 
 ing. Application of cold water to the head will assist the recovery, 
 and the animal should be placed in a comfortable position, with the 
 head slightly elevated. Bleeding is unnecessary in most instances. 
 No attempt under any circumstances should be made to administer 
 fluids to an animal until he has recovered his consciousness. There 
 is no objection to sponging the nose and lips and allowing a little 
 water to run into the mouth ; the attempt to swallow ^vill be the 
 first sign of recovery. 
 
 CONDITION. 
 
 Allow one quartern of oats with a little bran and a double hand- 
 ful of chaff for a feed, to be repeated four times in the day. Let 
 the animal have also a truss of good hay per week, and once a day a 
 few carrots ; work moderately, and until the condition improves a 
 long journey every second day will be enough. 
 
 The following is an old remedy : "Take a sheep's head, boil it till 
 almost in a gelatinous state, and well mix with enough bran to form 
 into balls. For the first two or three days the horse must be fed by 
 working the mixture with the fingers between his grinders. He will 
 gradually swallow small portions, and on the fourth or fifth day will 
 readily eat it himself. One head a day should be given, and half 
 the horse's allowance of corn taken away." 
 
 Some recommend the following : '' Take a quantity of barley and 
 put it in a glazed tin, over which pour just enough boiling hot water 
 to cover it, take care no steam can escape, and then let it soak. On 
 the following morning put some molasses into it, and stir it all up, 
 when it is (or ought to be) like a thick pudding." Give the horse 
 some of this mixed with his corn four or five times a day. 
 
17 
 
 Give a ball once a day, composed of carbonate of iron, crentian, 
 and ginger, of each two dracbms, mixed with honey to form a mass ; 
 allow liberal rations, and exercise moderately. Or else give every 
 day for a fortnight a ball containing sulphate of iron half a drachm, 
 with gentian, ginger, and turmeric, of each one drachm. 
 
 Again : Administer five drachms of aloes in a ball. After the 
 effects of this have passed off, sprinkle nightly over a feed of oats 
 half an ounce of liquor arsenicalis ; the administration of the latter 
 to be continued for six weeks. 
 
 Carrots are highly restorative and alterative, and are always given 
 raw, thinly sliced, with their food every day for six weeks. No food 
 is more restorative after a severe illness. They are good for coughs, 
 grease, and foul humours, and are, besides, very cooling to the blood. 
 
 Nettle-seeds (about twenty seeds a day only) were once considered 
 a remedy with jockeys and others. 
 
 Try pounded gorse, it improves the coat ; about two handfuls a day. 
 
 To keep a horse in good condition care must be taken as to what 
 you feed him on : — One fourth barley and three-fourths oats, with a 
 slight admixture of beans when given to the horse, tends more than 
 any other com to produce the muscle and fat which is wasted during 
 the working hours. Barley does not offer so great an amount of 
 flesh-forming compounds, but tends more to the formation of fat. 
 Beans contain twice the amount of flesh-producing substances either 
 of oats or barley. 
 
 Condition Powders. — 1. Black antimony, 4oz. ; flowers of sulphur, 
 2oz, ; bean-flour or barley-meal, -|-lb, ; a table-spoonful with their 
 corn. 2. Sulphur, 21b. ; fenugrec, 41b. ; cream of tartar lib. ; 
 liquorice, lib. ; nitre, lib. ; black antimony, lib. ; gentian, ^Ib. ; 
 aniseed, jlb. ; common salt, lib. Mix well; dose, loz. daily. 
 Give your horses plenty of walking exercise for six weeks, with 
 one or two physic balls — the feeding at first should be gradual. 
 Horses should have a large piece of chalk or hard lime put in 
 their water-cask. In India, 2oz. of powdered catechu are given 
 for some time, for the purpose of taming vicious horses ; while in 
 some parts of France jockeys are said to stupify vicious horses for 
 sale by tobacco suffused in spirits. 
 
 CONGESTION OF THE LUNGS. 
 
 The predisposing causes of this affection are plethora, occasioned 
 by high feeding (particularly upon beans), hot stabling, warm 
 clothing, and by exercise to which the creature has never previousl)^ 
 been subjected, and which render the lungs more susceptible to cold 
 
18 
 
 and less able to resist tlie attacks of it. Alternations between heat 
 and cold, more commonly from cold to heat than the reverse, are 
 alike productive of congestion. 
 
 Congestion of the lungs is seldom ushered in by any premonitory 
 symptoms, excepting that the animal is sluggish when at work, or 
 that he is off his feed. The patient begins to breathe laboriously (to 
 blow) ; the extremities are intensely cold, the visible mucous mem- 
 branes are red and injected, and the pulse is accelerated ; sometimes 
 a dry cough and constipation are present. As the disease advances, 
 the mucous membranes assume a leaden hue, the breathing becomes 
 very laborious ; the patient lies down and continually looks round 
 at his sides, and, when up, stands with his legs outstretched and 
 wide apart ; the pulse becoming more irregular and oppressed, the 
 teeth grate, the mouth gets cold, and the extremities swell ; and 
 often within three days from the cause of the malady coming into 
 operation death ensues. 
 
 To prevent is better than to cure ; therefore, in bringing up a 
 young horse from grass, previously to submitting him to work, 
 prepare him by gradually introducing him to it. Give a moderate 
 allowance of hay, and commence with one feed of oats, and 
 gradually increase it to three ; carrots two or three per diem ; no 
 beans; and, if necessary, a gentle dose of purgative medicine. Allow 
 walking exercise at first, and from week to week increase the pace, 
 but do not commence by exerting him to the utmost during the first 
 month. As treatment, give food easy of digestion, such as boiled 
 bran, oats, and carrots ; clothe the patient, bandage the legs with 
 flannel bandages, apply mustard plaisters to the sides of the chest, 
 and administer every four hours drachm doses of the carbonate of 
 ammonia, and the same quantity of aether, in a pint of water ; if 
 the symptoms subside and constipation sets in, give a small dose 
 of aloes (two drachms), together with a little nitre, but still continue 
 the administration of the above prescribed stimulants, diminishing 
 only the quantity gradually until such time as they can be replaced 
 by tonics. Exercise regularly, and apply plenty of friction to the 
 skin. Sometimes, after recovering from congestion of the lungs, 
 diseases of a low typhoid character supervene, and of course require 
 different treatment. 
 
 CONTEACTED FEET. 
 
 As regards the bad effect of heat and drought, the removal of the 
 cause will effect the remedy. But never allow a horse to stand on 
 fermenting litter. When in the stable stop the animal's feet with 
 
19 
 
 cowdung and wet clay, and place squabs on his feet ; this will 
 greatly assist in preventing contraction. For treatment, pare the 
 sole and rasp the foot well round ; remove the shoes, and, if neces- 
 sary, put tips on ; blister the pastern, and turn out into a moist 
 pasture, or a loose-box, for a couple of months. In a case of con- 
 traction attended with local inflammation, bleed at the toe and give 
 aperient medicine ; place the foot in cold poultices. 
 
 Where contraction has been caused by bad shoeing, so arrange 
 the shoe that the frogs shall have their fair share in the action of 
 the foot. To this end a gradual lowering of the crust at the heels 
 and a decrease in the thickness of the ii'on at the same part is to be 
 recommended, care being taken that no nails shall be placed farther 
 back than is absolutely necessary, A good cover should always be 
 allowed, and the edge of the shoe should project a little beyond the 
 crust, particularly on the outside, A mixture of tar, with an eighth 
 part of common turpentine, should be daily rubbed on the hoof, espe- 
 cially round the upper part, close under the haii' ; wet swabs should 
 also be used frequently while the horse is standing in the stable. 
 
 COEXS. 
 
 Corns are caused by pressure, and generally by allowing the shoes 
 to remain on too long without removing them. Sometimes bad 
 shoeing occasions them from the pressure being made on the seat of 
 the corn instead of on the crust and bars. 
 
 It is hardly possible to eradicate a corn from a horse's foot ; but 
 by careful shoeing the animal may be kept sound. If the corn is 
 very painful, a bar shoe is best, otherwise the ordinary shoe, set off 
 at the heel, will answer. The important thing is to avoid pressure 
 on the injured part, Eest for a time cures a corn, without the 
 necessity for using caustic ; but in order to avoid their return the 
 feet must be gradually accustomed to pressure. Great care is re- 
 quired in shoeing them so as to avoid on the one hand allowing the 
 inner heel to be too full, and on the other the cutting away the bars 
 which by their presence tend to give strength. In some very inve- 
 terate cases, the bar-shoe must be constantly worn, but in the great 
 majority it may be discontinued after a few months. 
 
 Contraction, again, is a predisposing cause of corn, from the 
 falling in of the heel-walls. "When the heels are allowed to grow 
 too long, the hoof is subjected to a great amount of undue pressure, 
 which is often to be noticed in the unshod foot ; and for this reason 
 many cases of corn are contracted during a summer's run at grass, 
 where the feet have been allowed to grow, and where no attention 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 for months has been bestowed upon them. A paucit}^ of horn alike 
 subjects feet to corns, because even slight pressure will immediately 
 bruise the heel. 
 
 Sometimes the shoes get loose, and separate from the heels, in 
 which cases mechanical agents, such as gravel, flints, &c., get be- 
 tween the shoe and the foot, and set up inflammation of the part, 
 which results in corn. 
 
 In treating corn, the first step to be taken is the removal of the 
 cause, and then to cut down upon the disease and let out the 
 extravasated blood. If contraction be present, the heels should, in 
 addition, be carefully thinned, and a shoe should be placed upon 
 the foot, so adapted as to be laid off the injured part. In addition 
 stimulate the parts by dressing them daily with hydrochloric acid 
 and water — a teaspoonful of the former to half a pint of the latter — 
 and fill the aperture with a piece of tow ; afford greater protection 
 by means of a larger web, or plenty of cover to the shoe ; and pare 
 away from time to time such pieces of horn as by undue growth 
 cause pressure. Corns, unless cured soon after their appearance, 
 ever afterwards, unless continually and carefully attended to, become 
 a source of irritation, and the consequent cause of lameness. 
 
 COUGH. 
 
 For cough in a horse give rest, and feed nightly on a bran mash 
 and carrots, and administer a ball containing ^dr. of the iodide of 
 iron and the same quantity of belladonna. Or administer 2dr. of 
 assafoetida and -Jdr. of the extract of henbane, to be administered 
 daily. 
 
 In cases of chronic cough much benefit is derived from daily doses 
 (4oz.) of cod liver oil. You may also give the iodide of sulphur every 
 second day, made into a ball with linseed meal and honey. Or try 
 5gr. of white arsenic mixed up with some bran and sliced carrots, 
 twice a day. 
 
 Some practitioners advise to administer -l-dr. henbane three times 
 a da,j. Give it either on the animal's tongue so that it may dissolve, 
 or give it in a bran mash. Feed freely on carrots and keep the 
 bowels gently open. Where the cough and cold is but slight, give 
 him mashes with scalded linseed every night, dissolving in the 
 water -|oz. of nitre. Take nearly all the corn away, and if the 
 bowels are confined give a gentle dose of ph3^sic after the mashes 
 have had time to soften the dung. Or, administer every other day 
 a ball, containing Idr. of aloes, ^dr. of digitalis, and |dr. of extract 
 of henbane, made up with common mass. 
 
21 
 
 Where the cough is of some standing some apply a blister of 
 biniodide of mercury ointment, and administer ^oz. iodide of potassium, 
 loz. iodide of sulphur, 2oz. cinchona bark, a teaspoonful given in 
 the food every other day. Where the horse is but slightly affected, 
 but appears rather weak, intimately mix together loz. of powdered 
 camphor with lib. of honey, of which give a table-spoonful every 
 morning ; and at night administer a ball containing -l^dr. of iodide 
 of iron. Continue this treatment until a cure is effected. 
 
 Again : Buy 1 pint linseed oil and 2oz. nitre (sweet spirits) ; give 
 (with a horn) half of each one day, and the other half -pint and loz, 
 the next. 
 
 CRACKED HEELS. 
 
 In acute cases remedial measures must be used internally rather 
 than externally. The following are the most marked symptoms 
 of the disease : — The horse's condition is good, but the skin and 
 coat is harsh and rough, the skin under the fetlock joint at the 
 back of the leg contains a few angry looking cracks, whilst the 
 heels are puffy and hot. The horse runs evidently in great pain. 
 Place the animal in a loose box, but do not give too much litter. 
 Let the food be of easy digestion, and not too much of it. Give at 
 first, for three days, bran maskes, and then a mild dose of physic, 
 after which feed on oats (bruised), carrots, or green food. Give 
 nitrate of potash one drachm, and sulphur half an ounce, every 
 day until the heat and swelling in the heels subside. This mixture 
 may be given mixed with their food. 
 
 Dress the heels with water bandages, covered over with oil silk, 
 and foment the parts once a day with warm water — not hot — for about 
 an hour. Discontinue the water dressing when proud flesh appears. 
 Now mix corrosive sublimate with four times its weight of flour, 
 and place it on the wounds ; two or three applications, at an interval 
 of two days, will generally work a cure. When the wounds have 
 healed, keep the skin moist by glycerine put on daily, and see that 
 the heels are thoroughly brushed and for some time not washed. 
 Some veteiinary surgeons recommend, after the constitutional 
 remedies have been used and the wounds healed, to apply locally 
 an ointment composed of iodide of potassium one part, with four 
 parts of lard and four of glycerine. It should be well rubbed into 
 the skin morning and night, the horse meanwhile being allowed only 
 walking exercise, in order to avoid the risk of cracking the heels. 
 At the end of a week an ointment of biniodide of mercury should be 
 substituted for the iodide of potassium. The ordinary red ointment, 
 
22 
 
 diluted with four parts of lard and four of glycerine, will be sufiS- 
 ciently strong. Great care is required in using this remedy, to cause 
 an increased secretion of cuticle, and a little soreness without blis- 
 tering. Should the action of the ointment be too strong, withhold it 
 for a day or two. The treatment should be continued, with occa- 
 sional intermission, for at least two months before the horse is tested 
 in ordinary work. 
 
 The two following recipes for simple non-inflammatory cracked 
 heels have been recommended : — (1.) Besmear the affected parts with 
 glycerine, never wash or expose the heel to draughts, and administer 
 nightly a ball containing half a drachm of the iodine of iron. 
 (2.) If in good health and not requiring physic, which is, however, 
 generally useful, keep them very dry, and apply the following oint- 
 ment, viz., ointment of nitrate of mercury 1 dr., zinc ointment 1 oz. 
 — mix. 
 
 A very excellent heel ointment, applicable to simple non-inflam- 
 matory cracked heels, is composed of carbonate of lead (white lead) 
 and powdered camphor, of each equal parts, added to eight parts of 
 melted lard, and stirred until nearly cold. This perfectly white 
 ointment may be coloured to suit the colour of the horse's legs by 
 adding various proportions of lamp black and Armenian bole. The 
 ointment will have to be applied daily for some time, and especially 
 before the animal is taken out to his work. 
 
 Where these remedies fail, try 4gr. or 5gr. of white arsenic in the 
 corn twice a day, continuing the glycerine application twice a day ; 
 or apply the following ointment — creosote Idr., spermaceti ointment 
 loz., and keep the horse cool. 
 
 Common salt absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, hence it has 
 been in some instances applied with great success for keeping the 
 hard-bound hoofs of horses moist. The hoofs of some horses 
 become dry and oftentimes crack, thereby rendering them lame if 
 the animals are driven on hard roads. Bathe the hoof and fetlock 
 joint with a salt brine three times a day, and lameness from the 
 above cause will be avoided. It is a common practice with some 
 blacksmiths to rasp cracked hoofs in order to render them more 
 tough ; but salt brine is far superior to rasping for effecting this 
 object. 
 
 CRIB BITING. 
 
 No. 1. — The treatment of crib biting is entirely mechanical, and 
 must be varied to meet the peculiarities. If the horse only cribs in the 
 ordinary way, the removal of all aids, and the arrangement of feed- 
 
23 
 
 ing troughs cind rack on the ground, will probably discourage the 
 animal. 
 
 No. 2. — A remedy which may be considered universally applicable 
 is the throat strap, which must be buckled rather tightly round the 
 neck, close to the head, in such a way that considerable pressure 
 shall be inflicted on the larynx. This plan usually succeeds. It is, 
 however, unsightly, and blemishes the horse by wearing away the 
 hair. 
 
 No. 3. — Have a bit made of a hollow iron tube, open at each end, 
 with a few holes drilled in it (like those in a flute or fife) in the 
 side towards the opening of the mouth, to be attached to the head- 
 stall, and worn constantly, except when the horse is feeding; a 
 piece of an old gun barrel would answer the pui'pose. 
 
 No. 4. — Buckle moderately tightly a small strap round the horse's 
 under jaw (inclosing the under lip), between the teeth and the 
 tushes. The strap must be tight enough to prevent its falling off, 
 and not too nari'ow a one, or it will cut the gums. The mode in 
 which it acts is that it prevents the edge of the under lip from 
 closing on the upper one when the mouth is closed ; the horse can- 
 not therefore fill his mouth with wind, to gulp it down afterwards, 
 as the wind escapes at the open side of the mouth made by the strap 
 as fast as he sucks it in. 
 
 No. 5. — Put a rough, shaggy old sheep's skin over the bar of the 
 manger, or any part of the box or stall that a horse can catch hold 
 of with his teeth. 
 
 No. 6. — Eub all the places with spirits of tar, it dries into the 
 wood directly, and the smell is not unpleasant in the stable. 
 
 No. 7. — Put your horse into a loose box, remove the manger 
 bodily ; let the hay-rack be made of iron, semicircular, and pro- 
 jecting from the wall ; let the door be made quite smooth on the 
 inside. In short, remove everything that he can possibly seize with 
 his teeth. Do not tie him up at all, for horses will sometimes 
 " suck " their wind by stretching their halter to the full extent. 
 Lastly, give him his com in a nose-bag. As crib-biting is produced 
 partly by idleness and partly by indigestion, place a lump of rock- 
 salt in one corner of his box, and a piece of chalk in another. By 
 licking the first, and biting the second, he will find amusement. 
 
 No. 8. — Apply a bar-muzzle, which entirely prevents the habit 
 without interfering with the feeding of the horse. 
 
 CURBS. 
 
 A curb is a sprain or rupture of the fibres in a ligament which 
 
24 
 
 binds the os calcis to the lower bones of the tarsus and cannon 
 bone. It does not affect the tendon. A curby hock is more likely 
 to throw out a second curb than one without any sign of weak- 
 ness ; but old horses seldom give way, even if they have suffered 
 from curbs in their youth. 
 
 Curb is produced during severe exertion of any kind, but espe- 
 cially during false steps and slips, either into unseen holes or over 
 rolling stones. 
 
 No. 1 . — For a soft curb, keep it cool with vinegar and water, applied 
 by a bandage, till all inflammation has subsided, at the same time 
 resting the horse, and putting on a high-heeled shoe. When quite 
 cool, apply every day an ointment composed of biniodide of mercury, 
 two drachms ; lard, one ounce. Eub in the ointment every night 
 until the skin swells. Then desist for two or three nights, and 
 repeat the rubbing once or twice more with similar intervals — 
 persevering a longer or shorter time according to the extent of the 
 curb. 
 
 No. 2. — If recently produced, rest your horse, and put on a high- 
 heeled shoe, and apply cooling lotions, such as tincture of arnica 
 and distilled water, to be applied through the medium of a light 
 linen bandage. A wine-glass of tincture of arnica to half-pint of 
 distilled water is sufficient. 
 
 No. 3. — Try spirit of turpentine, rubbed on the part every day 
 until a thick scurf is produced. 
 
 CUTTING. 
 
 Cutting depends upon some one of several malformations, and 
 the treatment must vary accordingly. Sometimes raising the heels 
 will cause the pastern to bend up less than before, and this will 
 stop the cutting. At others raising the inner heel will succeed. 
 In any case the shoe must be kept within the foot, and no inner 
 nails must be used. 
 
 Some advise the use of the three-quarter shoe as a preventive of 
 cutting with the hind feet. This is equally applicable in the 
 hunting-field and road. 
 
 When the cutting is very bad there is no resource but putting 
 on a boot. 
 
 To decide what part of the hoof cuts the standing leg, proceed as 
 follows : Paint the hoof over with some paint easily visible in the 
 horse's skin, then lead him into some clean place, and if he cuts, 
 the paint will be rubbed off the hoof on to the skin of the standing 
 leg. Try the horse in all his paces. 
 
25 
 
 A single piece of stiff tliin leather, tlie shape of a half-moon, 
 without any padding, is a good sort of boot for a horse that cuts. 
 It must be strapped on a little above the fetlock. Great attention 
 should be paid to the shoeing of horses with this defect, though it 
 often proceeds from weakness, or when a horse is tired. 
 
 DEFECTS IN THE HORSE, EXAMINATION FOR. 
 
 The head: The eyes, for cataract, glass eyes, and specks. The 
 nostrils, for glanders, tumours, and colds. The glands, between the 
 brooches of the lower jaw, for enlargement. The throat, for mark 
 of crib-biting strap, and the tenderness which accompanies cold. 
 The teeth, for the age and marks of crib-biting. The veins of the 
 neck, to see that both are entire. The foreleg and shoulder : The 
 seat of the collar, for tumours. The point of the elbow, for 
 tumours. The knee, for blemishes and stiffness of that joint. The 
 shank, for speedy cut, splent, and strain. The fetlock- joint, for 
 enlargement, windgalls, unnerving, and marks of cutting. The 
 pastern, for ringbone. The foot, for side-bones, sandcrack, con- 
 tractions, thrush, coins, and flat soles. The shoe, for signs of 
 cutting. The trunk quarters : Each side of the chest, for marks of 
 blisters and rowels. The space between the forelegs, for the same. 
 The stifle, for enlargement. The groin, for rupture. The hock, for 
 capped hock, curb, thorough-pin, bone-spavin and bog-spavin (or 
 blood-spavin). Then the horse should be mounted and ridden a 
 few hundred yards at a gallop, in order to quicken his breathing, 
 and thereby display the presence or absence of roaring, thick-wind, 
 or broken-wind. 
 
 DRENCH. 
 
 Salts may be given as a drench. The dose is from 6oz. to lOoz. 
 or even 12oz., dissolved in whey or barley-water. A good drench 
 for common purposes is composed of castor oil 4oz., Epsom salts 
 ooz. to 6oz., gruel 2 pints, mix. 
 
 ENLARGED GLANDS. 
 
 If situated in the throat, syringe the nostrils every other day with 
 the solution of the nitrate of silver (8gr. to the ounce of water) ; 
 feed bountifully on a highly nutritious diet, and administer daily a 
 ball containing -Jdr. of the iodide of iron. 
 
 ERYSIPELAS. 
 
 Erysipelas consists in an inflammatory action of the skin and sub- 
 
26 
 
 cutaneous tissues, and, when occurring in horses, distinguished by the 
 appearance of hot, tender swellings, generally situated on the head 
 and hind limbs. Previous to the appearance of these eruptions the 
 animal manifests symptoms of stupor and drowsiness, the pulse 
 becomes accelerated, and in a few days swellings appear, the matter 
 contained within w^hich sometimes becomes absorbed, at other times 
 the skin becomes purple, caused by the decomposition of the blood, 
 when sloughings supervene. Erysipelas is brought on in predis- 
 posed subjects by wounds, or any slight injuries. 
 
 Treatment. — Mild laxatives, and diuretics should be administered ; 
 the affected parts should be continually fomented with hot water ; 
 this treatment must be followed by the administration of tonics. 
 To prevent sloughing, it is often necessary to make incisions into 
 the skin — this practice is attended with benefit, as it greatly tends 
 to relieve the pain caused by the swellings. 
 
 EYES INFLAMED, 
 
 Such inflammations generally come on from the horse being stimu- 
 lated in the stable. They disappear if the corn is taken away. If 
 not very severe, try a lotion composed of a pint of water with a 
 drachm of sulphate of zinc dissolved in it. 
 
 Where the inflammation is caused by injury, bathe the eyelids 
 continually with cold water until the inflammation subsides, and 
 paint the eyeball, through the medium of a camel hair brush, with a 
 solution composed of six grains of the nitrate of silver to the ounce 
 of distilled water. 
 
 Weakness of, and discharge from the eyes, after severe attacks of 
 cold and sore throat, are common. As to treatment, foment the 
 eyes five times a day with hot water, and after each fomentation 
 bathe them with Goulard's extract, using a sponge as a medium for 
 its introduction. Do not on any account introduce the finger inside 
 the lid, but gently draw it back by gathering together the external 
 skin over the adjacent parts with the finger and thumb. 
 
 Some, in similar cases of weakness, bathe the eyes with a solution 
 of 3gr. nitj-ate of silver to loz. of water, and administer thrice weekly 
 a ball containing ^dr. of iodide of iron. 
 
 Another eye disease, which is much to be dreaded, is specific 
 ophthalmia or moon blindness. The symptoms are great irritation 
 in the eye, the eyelid is nearly closed, the pupil contracted, great 
 discharge of water, and if you try to raise the lid, the brow is pro- 
 truded, and the eye is much inflamed, the eyeball is dull and 
 sunken, and the eye appears clouded. The fit lasts for about eight 
 
days, and then gradually subsides, but recurs at varying intervals. 
 A foul stable is frequently the cause of specific ophthalmia. 
 
 Place the animal in a well drained and ventilated loose box and 
 exclude all light. Apply a blister of turpentine and ammonia 
 behind his ear ; administer a mild purgative, after the effects of 
 which have passed off give daily a ball containing a drachm of 
 iodide of iron, or sprinkle over a bran mash an ounce of arsenicalis 
 liquor ; keep the bowels open by giving a purgative (two drachms of 
 aloes) when constipation is present, and apply a bandage over the 
 eye, saturated with a solution of tincture of arnica and water — an 
 ounce of the former to a pint of the latter ; or bathe the eye twice 
 daily with a mixture of distilled water and Goulard's Extract, ad- 
 minister every night an ounce of liquor arsenicalis in a bran mash ; 
 allow no corn, but feed on green meat. 
 
 The arsenite of potass is a good medicine to use as an alterative 
 in specific ophthalmia. 
 
 FAECY. 
 
 The following capital article on this nasty disease appeared 
 recently in the Field : — " Farcy is always readily detectable. The 
 first decided indication of farcy is the simultaneous appearance 
 upon the skin of a number of small soft tumours of the size 
 of a hazel nut, some of them being in the course of lymphatic 
 vessels, which, together with the glands, are generally enlarged. 
 The eruption of farcy buds generally commences on the part where 
 the swelling has been most marked. In the hind extremities the 
 fetlocks or hocks will suft'er, and in the fore limbs the eruptions may 
 exist from the fetlocks to the shoulders, extending along the lym- 
 phatic vessels to some of the glands. There will generally be 
 observed on the skin hard corded lines, which terminate on the hind 
 limbs in the groin, where the glands will be found to be tender and 
 swollen ; and in the fore limbs running to the inside of the elbow- 
 joint, where there will be similar glandular enlargements. The 
 farcy eruption, although most frequently developed upon the sur- 
 face of the skin of the extremities, is by no means confined to those 
 parts. In fact, when there exists in the system a predisposition to 
 the disease, very slight causes, such as a blow or trifling woimd, will 
 suffice to determine the eruption to the face, neck, or side of the 
 chest and the withers, in all of which situations it very often occurs. 
 After a short time the farcy buds burst and discharge a quantity of 
 matter, which varies in character from thick white pus to a thin 
 mixture of serous and purulent fluid streaked with blood. The 
 
28 
 
 swelling of tlie limb or other part of tlie body which may be the 
 seat of the disease rapidly increases ; the abscesses take on the 
 ulcerative process, while the skin below the discharging wounds 
 becomes irritated and denuded of hair by the action of the acrid 
 fluid. In very severe cases the constitution suffers, there is extreme 
 languor present, with loss of appetite and derangement of the 
 secretive functions, the skin becomes adherent to the subjacent 
 tissues, the hair of the mane and tail is easily pulled out, the 
 animal is incapable of enduring the slightest exertion without 
 distress, and ultimately dies from exhaustion. The strength of the 
 internal remedies will be regulated by the state of the system. 
 Tonics, both mineral and vegetable, are required, and they must be 
 administered subject to the condition of their not affecting injuriously 
 the horse's appetite. To avoid this great care is necessary. Salts 
 of iron, copper, and zinc, cantharides, capsicum, gentian, and 
 ginger are the agents which are most successfully used ; and, if 
 possible, it is desirable to give them in the animal's provender, as 
 being the most ready way. When the state of the appetite renders 
 this method inapplicable, the medicine should be gi^en in a draught; 
 or, if made into a ball, a stick or balling instrument should be used, 
 to avoid the danger of scratching the hands. The dose of the 
 metallic salts will vary from twenty grains to a drachm, combined 
 with two drachms of powdered gentian, or with an ounce of the 
 tincture of gentian. If the mixture be made into a drench, sulphate 
 of copper is very generally used with benefit. Biniodide of copper 
 has also proved successful, and sulphate of iron is by some recom- 
 mended. Powdered cantharides have been given in doses of four 
 grains, combined with ten grains of capsicums, in the provender, 
 with occasional success in cases where symptoms of glanders have 
 been apparent. The agent which is most generally useful in the 
 treatment of farcy is undoubtedly sulphate of copper, which will 
 be readily taken in the food in half-drachm doses, and may be 
 safely continued until it produces a positive effect, which will be 
 indicated by loss of appetite, when the agent should be withheld 
 for a time. Styptic and caustic applications to the ulcers will 
 much assist the cure. If any buds remain unbroken, they should 
 be at once punctured with a lancet, and directly afterwards the 
 whole surface should be dressed with a solution of chloride of 
 zinc in the proportion of one part of Sir William Burnett's dis- 
 infecting fluid to eight parts of water, and the worst ulcers — all those 
 which do not appear to be healing — may be touched with the 
 undiluted fluid, by means of a piece of sponge on a stick, or lunar 
 
29 
 
 caustic ma}'- be employed instead of the solution of zinc, and carbolic 
 acid may take tbe place of either. If the treatment is successful, 
 there is generally left a chronic thickening of the integument of the 
 diseased part, with numerous hard knots, which mark the situations 
 of the original farcy buds. It is not to be expected that the com- 
 plete removal of this morbid condition can be effected, but the 
 enlargement may be reduced by the application of stimulating lini- 
 ments with friction, or what is better, the use of the ordinary liquid 
 blister or oil of cantharides, which may be safely applied over an 
 extensive surface. A great increase in the swelling of course follows 
 the blister, but in a few days it subsides, and with it a considerable 
 portion of the original tumefaction. A repetition of the blister on 
 several occasions at short intervals will be advantageous where it is 
 of much importance to reduce the limb to its normal size as nearly 
 as possible. When the cure is apparently complete it is still 
 necessary to exercise great caution in putting the horse to exertion ; 
 even in the most favourable cases there is great debility produced by 
 the disease, and sudden or excessive exertion is often followed by 
 death from congestion of the lungs or from general prostration." 
 
 FEVER IN THE FEET (LAMTNITIS). 
 
 We extract the following note on this disease from an able article 
 that appeared in the Field : " Horses most subject to fever in the 
 feet, or acute founder, or laminitis, are those employed in heavy 
 draught work. One variety of the affection is found in horses of all 
 ages and breeds — that form of it which is secondary to an acute 
 disease of some internal organ ; thus it has often occurred after a 
 severe attack of influenza or bronchitis, or inflammation of the 
 intestines. The causes of inflammation of the feet are generally 
 mechanical — concussion or strain of some kind is concerned. Hard 
 riding on hard roads will sometimes occasion a very acute attack ; 
 the gambols in which a horse will indulge when turned out to grass 
 may be the cause of an inflammatory attack, if the shoes have been 
 removed and the ground happens to be dry and hard. Standing for 
 a long period in the stable, supporting heavy weights down hill, 
 tight nailing, are all included. It is customary to describe three 
 particular stages of laminitis, the acute, subacute, and chronic, 
 which terms may be interpreted to mean the most violent inflamma- 
 tion in the first case, a more subdued and less active form in the 
 second, and a still lower variety, hardly amounting to inflammation 
 at all. in the third instance. Acute laminitis, as we may term all 
 cases where there are intense pain and constitutional disturbance, is 
 
30 
 
 indicated by very marked symptoms. The horse manifestly suffers 
 much ; his breathing is quick, his pulse bounding, his countenance 
 distressed : he stands with his hind legs much drawn under him, 
 and his body thrown backwards to relieve the fore feet, the heels of 
 which are made to receive his weight as far as possible. If the 
 animal be compelled to move, which is sometimes impossible, the 
 action is singularly awkward and stiff, the heels of the affected feet 
 are placed first on the ground and the toes elevated, and during pro- 
 gression all the muscles of the body appear to be rigid. The feet 
 will be found to be hot to the touch, and if tapjDed with the finger 
 nail even an increase of pain is the result ; the arteries above the 
 coronets will be felt to throb violently, and the horse steadily refuses 
 to allow either of the affected feet to be lifted from the ground. 
 Sometimes the horse lies down, and occasionally struggles and 
 groans like an animal suffering from internal spasm. At the com- 
 mencement remove the shoes, in order to cut out the soles until 
 they yield to pressure readily. If the horse is now found to stand 
 tolerably well without the shoes, they may be left off ; and the feet, 
 after being soaked in warm water, should be covered with warm, not 
 hot, poultices of bran and linseed meal. Constitutional irritation 
 may be combatted by bleeding and laxative medicine, in conjunction 
 with sedatives and opiates to allay pain. Should there be no im- 
 provement in the course of twenty-four hours, the case may be 
 looked upon as hopeless as far as a restoration to soundness is con- 
 cerned. The animal may live and be capable of performing some 
 amount of work, but the feet wdll always be excessively tender, and 
 unless great care is taken in adapting the shoes so as to avoid pre- 
 sure upon the sole, which generally bulges, and sometimes becomes 
 quite convex instead of concave, severe lameness will result. In 
 consequence of the ordinary methods of treatment being as a rule 
 ineffective, expedients that are rather desperate than legitimate have 
 been had recourse to, occasionally with success. Among these frog 
 setons are the least violent, and are said by those who have tried 
 them to produce in some cases most satisfactory results. 
 
 " Subacute and chronic fever in the feet may occur independently 
 of acute inflammation. An acute attack of fever in the feet is, or 
 should be, at once detected ; but subacute or chronic inflammation 
 may not be observed until the structure of the foot has become 
 changed and the action seriously impaired. After the disease has 
 existed for some time the hoofs present a ringed appearance, as 
 though the horny matter were secreted in ridges. These rings en- 
 circle the foot completely, and sometimes extend, at intervals of less 
 
31 
 
 than half an inch apart, from the coronet to the ground surface. 
 There is no severe pain present in subacute or chronic laminitis, and 
 consequently no indications of constitutional irritation, as in the 
 acute form of the malady. The subacute stage is distinguished 
 from the chronic by the more decided character of the lameness and 
 greater amount of heat in the feet, but it must be admitted that in 
 many cases the two degrees are so closely allied that it would be 
 diflScult to decide where one ceases and the other begins. One 
 variety of chronic fever in the feet, which is more properly the sub- 
 sidence of the most acute form, is seen in what is termed pumiced 
 foot. In this disease the foot becomes elongated, the ridges of the 
 horn are remarkably developed, the hoof is altogether distorted, the 
 sole becomes convex and bulges beyond the cnist, the entire hoof 
 structure is brittle, and in places where the external shell is broken 
 presents the appearance of pumice-stone. 
 
 " Notwithstanding the extensive alteration in form and structure of 
 the feet, horses so affected have worked hard for years without appa- 
 rently becoming much worse. 
 
 " Treatment of subacute and chronic laminitis must be based on 
 the principle of palliating what cannot be radically cured. When 
 the lameness is very severe, and the feet are exceedingly hot and 
 tender, the shoes should be removed and the soles well thinned ; 
 after which bleeding from the toe is to be recommended. Wet 
 swabs should also be applied to the feet, and a dose of physic given ; 
 rest, as a matter of course, in a loose box being enjoined for at least 
 a fortnight, after which a little walking exercise on soft ground will 
 be beneficial. In the event of the lameness continuing unabated at 
 the end of the second week, a blister round the coronet is likely to 
 do good. When, by the adoption of proper treatment, the lameness 
 has been relieved, great care will stiU be necessary to preserve the 
 horse in working condition. Shoeing is most important. The iron 
 should be so adapted to the foot that no pressure is inflicted upon 
 the sole, which must at the same time be well protected by a good 
 cover. A good bearing should also be given to the heels. In many 
 cases horses work most comfortably in a bar shoe, which may be 
 arranged to suit any kind of foot, as it may be made heavy or very 
 light, according to circumstances. The constant employment of 
 swabs to the feet while the horse is in the stable has a beneficial 
 effect, and the use of some compound of tar and turpentine with 
 fatty matters, melted to fomi a common hoof ointment to be kept in 
 the stable for daily application, will contribute to lessen the brittle- 
 ness of the horn, which is one of the chief difficulties the shoeing 
 
32 
 
 smith has to contend with. Where it is desired to make the most 
 of the animal's capabilities, soft ground will be selected if possible ; 
 hard, dry roads are very unfavourable, and a willing horse, which 
 might be almost useless if compelled to work upon them, would be 
 capable of doing a great deal of duty upon a farm, and would be 
 even benefitted by the exercise on soft land. If, in addition, his feet 
 are carefully attended to when he returns to his stable, no better 
 system of treatment for cases of chronic fever in the feet could be 
 devised." 
 
 Many hunters are inclined to fever in the feet. Anything that 
 diverts the inflammation from the foot, after work, is beneficial. As 
 a blister rapid in its effects try Farrell's Vesicant, and a little of this, 
 painted on round the coronets after a hard day with hounds, has the 
 best possible effect. Then, last thing at night, put the fore-feet in 
 bran poultices till the following morning. A horse, especially an 
 old one, whose joints fill and are stiff after hunting, will be much 
 benefited by being bandaged, last thing at night, with flannel 
 bandages wrung loosely out of the hottest water that can be borne ; 
 over these dry flannel bandages are placed, and left for the night. 
 In the morning the inner bandage is dry and the outer one wet. 
 The legs should be fine, and will generally be found so. 
 
 Instead of bran poultices some place the feet in squabs previously 
 well saturated with a solution consisting of a wine-glass of tincture 
 of arnica to half a pint of water, and never feed animals with feet 
 having a tendency to fever on beans. 
 
 FIRING. 
 
 Previous to firing a horse, he should be placed for a fortnight on 
 a low diet, and after the operation he will require three months' rest; 
 during which period, if possible, turn out to grass and give one feed 
 of oats daily, or place the animal in a loose box and supply him with 
 two feeds of oats and green meat daily. A horse often goes lame 
 after firing, the lameness being the result of the curb for which the 
 animal was fired. If necessary at all, the firing iron must be ap- 
 plied in such a manner as to leave no doubt of its producing a more 
 decided effect than any other form of counter irritation, and for this 
 purpose one deep cut through the centre of a bony tumour is far 
 preferable to a series of marks which only affect the skin without 
 impinging directly upon the structure of the morbid growth which 
 is causing the mischief. The operation is comparatively painless, 
 quickly performed while the animal is standing, and affords in many 
 cases immediate relief. For the purpose of encouraging suppuration 
 
33 
 
 after the incision has been made with the firing iron, a little can- 
 tharides ointment may be rubbed over the part, and subsequently 
 daily dressings with digestive ointment will keep up the suppurative 
 action as long as may be considered desirable. When the wound 
 begins to heal, care must be taken to control the excess of granula- 
 tion by the judicious use of caustic, which will materially lessen the 
 amount of blemish. 
 
 FLAT FEET. 
 
 Cow-dung stopping should not be applied very frequently to flat 
 feet, as the hora is softened too much by it. We should advise an 
 occasional application of oil and tar, and the use of shoes with a 
 very broad web to protect the soles. 
 
 FROTHING AT THE MOUTH. 
 
 There is no cure for frothing at the mouth of the horse. It may 
 be lessened by the use of a tight noseband. Some wash the horse's 
 mouth out with the following mixture : 6dr. of alum dissolved in a 
 quart of sage tea, using it in a wine bottle, as you would refresh a 
 racehorse after a race, each time you go out. 
 
 GASTEITIS. 
 
 Try the following stomach ball : — Blue pill Idr., Barbadoes aloes 
 Idr., extract of gentian 2dr. Mix, and give every day for a week, 
 then twice a week for some little time. 
 
 '' GETTING CAST." 
 
 '• Getting cast " may arise from either accident or disease. When 
 a horse in lying down gets into such a position with regard to the 
 sides of his box that he finds it impossible to rise, he will struggle 
 until completely exhausted, and, unless relieved, would ultimately die. 
 The cure for this is of course easy when the accident is shortly dis- 
 covered ; simply drag the beast away from the impediment, and he 
 will rise of his own accord. Should he, however, have lain so long 
 as to become incapable of rising, and the side he lies on is numbed, 
 pass a sack under the belly, fastening the two ends over his back to a 
 rope running through a pulley attached to the roof, and so haul him 
 up, keeping the animal in an upright position whilst the numbed 
 side is rubbed with dry straw. It is perhaps advisable to give him 
 an enema. When a horse becomes cast in a field it is desirable to 
 try what can be done by manual aid alone at first, by turning the 
 horse completely over, placing his legs in a proper position, and 
 assisting him in his efforts to rise. Should these means fail, cause 
 
34 
 
 two large lioles to be dng in the gronncl close to the horse's fore ami 
 hind feet, and then gently tilt the animal until his legs slip into tlip 
 holes. A short rest in this position enables him to use his limbs 
 and to step out of the holes. 
 
 GLANDERS. 
 
 One symptom of the disease is enlargement of the glands under 
 the jaw, and this, together with a discharge from the nostrils, is 
 sufficient to render the animal suspected. There are two quite 
 distinct varieties of the disease, one form of it being very rapid, 
 while the other is attended with only occasional or comparatively 
 trifling deviation from health, and may exist for a considerable 
 time without causing much perceptible injury to the animal's 
 health. The symptoms of acute glanders are profuse discharge 
 of mucus from the nostrils, extensive ulceration of the membrane, 
 which is streaked with lines of red, and in some places has a 
 leaden hue ; the appetite is quite lost ; the respiration soon becomes 
 difficult. After a day or two the secretion from the mucous mem- 
 brane is largely mingled with blood, complete prostration follows, 
 and the horse dies from exhaustion. 
 
 An animal suffering from debility and loss of appetite, with 
 emaciation and a harsh state of the coat, discharge of sticky mucus 
 from the nostrils, ulceration of the nasal membrane, cough, and 
 quickened respiration, may safely be pronounced to be ''glandered;" 
 but when the symptoms are confined to the head, and the appetite 
 and condition are unaffected, only the experienced examiner can 
 form a correct opinion. Glanders is sometimes so closely allied to 
 some forms of catarrh and nasal gleet that it is very difficult 
 to distinguish between them. Glanders is, however, an incurable 
 disease, while the affections which resemble it usually yield to 
 proper treatment. If thought desirable to attempt any alleviation 
 of the disease, sponge the parts with a strong solution of chloride 
 of zinc several times a-day ; and give large doses of yeast mixed 
 with a little porter or beer daily for two or three weeks. Let the 
 groom take care to wash his hands well afterwards in the solution of 
 chloride of zinc, as a precautionary measure against infection. 
 
 GREASE. 
 
 In an obstinate case turn the horse on to a pasture, and feed him 
 whilst out on corn and hay. Wash the legs twice daily with soft soap 
 and hot water, after which dry them, and rub into the affected parts 
 a liniment composed of equal parts of olive oil and turpentine, and 
 
35 
 
 sprinkle nightly over a feed of com half an ounce of liquor arseni- 
 calis. The disease will require time before it yields to treatment. 
 The liquor arsenicalis may be continued two or three months, during 
 which time the horse does his work as usual. Two or three hours' 
 exercise knee deep in salt water is a good thing. A remedy much 
 used by some practitioners is a lotion composed of carbolic acid 
 (pure) and glycerine, of each -|oz., with one part water, to be applied 
 frequently. The legs should be kept free of dirt and wet. 
 
 Some veterinarians contend that the diet should be of a cooling 
 nature — such as bran mashes, carrots, and no corn of any sort. Give 
 (at night) 1 dr. of calomel, and (in the morning) 4dr. of aloes. Let the 
 diseased parts be washed twice a day with soft soap and water ; and, 
 if inflammation is present, or the feet are hot, apply carrot poultices. 
 After their removal daub the parts with diacetate of lead for two 
 days, and then apply an ointment composed of 1 part of finely- 
 powdered alum, 1 of turpentine, and 4 of lard. If possible, rest 
 the animal, and turn out into a pasture. 
 
 The easiest application is to tie one end of an old stocking above 
 the hoof, fill it with bran, and tie the other end below the hock ; 
 then pour a pitcher of warm water down the leg until all be 
 thoroughly saturated. Do this several times a day ; let the bran be 
 turned out and renewed daily. 
 
 Boiled potatoes with bruised oats is a good feed for animals in- 
 clined to break out in humours ; it keeps them in good condition and 
 they are very fond of it. Give the horse the following : Aloes, Idr. ; 
 emetic tartar, Idr. ; sulphate of copper, -Idr., make into a ball with 
 palm oil ; one ball twice a week. Allow plenty of clean straw, and 
 keep the stable free from ammonia. The following, as a poultice, is 
 recommended : Turnips and onions each ^ peck ; Venice turpentine 
 and lard each ^Ib. ; alum, loz. ; oatmeal sufficient to make it of 
 a proper consistency. The onions and turnips to be boiled until 
 soft, and whilst warm the other ingredients to be added. 
 
 The following recipe has been recommended : Administer daily 
 in the water the animal drinks a tablespoonful of nitre, and feed 
 on bran mashes and carrots ; poultice the affected parts on four 
 consecutive nights, when well wash the legs, and dress with Burnett's 
 solution of chloride of zinc, loz. to a pint of water. 
 
 As a variation to the above, administer daily in the water the 
 animal drinks two drachms of nitre, and weekly a ball containing 
 one drachm of aloes. Dress the affected parts with chloride of 
 lime and lard, three drachms of the former to an ounce of the 
 latter. 
 
 d2 
 
36 
 
 GRIPES. 
 
 Administer one ounce each of tincture of opium and nitric ether, 
 with a pint of warm water, to be repeated in an hour if necessary. 
 
 HERNIA. 
 
 An able correspondent of the Field thus writes : " Of the several 
 forms of hernia the most frequent are ventral hernia and um- 
 bilical, the first being the result of an injury which may be 
 inflicted at any period in the animal's life, and the second the con- 
 sequence of protrusion of the intestine through the natural opening. 
 Ventral hernia arises from blows from blunt instruments. A thrust 
 from the horn of an ox, violent exertion in the hunting-field, 
 falls on the road while in harness, struggles during operations, 
 and violent efforts to rise after a fall, are among the causes of 
 ventral and also of inguinal hernia. The first indication of the 
 accident will be the appearance of a soft swelling at the point of 
 injury, and this on examination will be found to possess the 
 characters of a hernial tumour ; it will generally be free from 
 excess of heat, and the animal will give no sign of suffering while 
 it is being manipulated, unless there should happen to be inflamma- 
 tion from the recent hurt, or the intestine has become strangulated. 
 The discovery of the opening in the walls of the abdomen, and the 
 reduction of the hernia by pressing the intestine back into the 
 cavity, will be positive evidence of the character of the enlargement. 
 
 " Treatment of ventral hernia must be regulated by the extent of 
 the rupture of the abdominal walls, the position of the tumour, and 
 the date of the injury. If the case is recent, the opening in the 
 walls of the cavity small, and the position of the injury favourable 
 to the application of a bandage or compress, pressure may be 
 employed with good effect. A firm pad of leather properly stuffed 
 with tow or wadding must be adapted to the part, and retained in 
 the proper position by means of a bandage, which may be fastened 
 by lacing in such a way that it can be tightened when necessary 
 without being removed or displaced. Adhesive plasters may in 
 some cases succeed, but it is difficult to obtain the requisite degree 
 of pressure. Stimulating applications to the integument are recom- 
 mended for the purpose of causing effusion beneath the integu- 
 ment, and thus establishing a temporary compress, which may be 
 continued as long as required by a repetition of the dressing. An 
 ointment composed of neutral chromate of potash is said by M. Foelen, 
 a Belgian veterinary surgeon, to be very effective in the treatment 
 of umbilical hernia ; and if so, it might be equally beneficial in its 
 
37 
 
 eflfects upon small hernial tnmours in other situations. The ointment 
 is made bv mixing one part of the neutral chromate of potash with 
 two and a half parts of lard. It should be appUed with friction all 
 over and around the enlargement, and be repeated on the following 
 or second day. Much swelling is said to follow the employment of 
 the ointment ; and when it subsides the hernia is found to be 
 cured- This and other stimulating compounds will be restricted 
 to the treatment of those comparatively unimportant cases of 
 disease where the tumour is small and easily reducible. When 
 hernia is irreducible — that is to say, when the portion of the intes- 
 tine cannot be returned to the abdominal ca"rity through the open- 
 ing which exists in the walls, in consequence of the smallness of the 
 wound or the existence of adhesions — an operation will be necessary 
 to effect the reduction. 
 
 '• Strangulated hernia is indicated by very marked symptoms of 
 abdominal pain ; the animal appears to be suffering from spasmodic 
 colic, and expresses his uneasiness by lying down, rising again, and 
 sometimes struggling and rolling during a paroxysm. The surface of 
 the body is covered with perspiration, the pulse is full and quick, 
 the nostrils dilated, respiration accelerated, and all the signs which 
 mark violent internal pain are present. 
 
 *•' Seldom will there be any difficulty in detecting strangulated hernia 
 if a proper examination is made ; the mere fact of hernia existing 
 should be in itself suggestive of the possibility of the accident ; and 
 when an animal known to be the subject of rupture is observed to 
 suffer abdominal pain attention should at once be directed to the 
 hernial tumour, and if this is found to be tense, glossy in appearance, 
 and painful to the touch, it will be tolerably evident that the intes- 
 tine has become strangulated. Alteration lq the temperature of the 
 tumour will always be noticed when strangulation has occurred ; 
 while the inflammation is active the tumour will be hot, but as soon 
 as inflammation has given place to mortification or death of the part 
 the temperature falls, and the enlargement is distinguished by the 
 cold clammy feel, which is not likely to be misunderstood. In the 
 early stage of strangulation there is a possibility of dealing vrith it 
 successfully, but when the surface of the enlargement has become 
 cold, and the signs of abdominal pain have ceased, no treatment is 
 likely to be of use. 
 
 •'■' Umbilical hernia is frequently present in foals and calves, and 
 although the enlargement in many instances may be small and pro- 
 ductive of no inconvenience at the time, it often increases very 
 rapidly, in consequence of the protrusion of a large portion of 
 
38 
 
 intestine during some violent and sudden strain ; and hence it is im- 
 jDortant not to disregard the first indication of the mischief. Much 
 greater importance is to be attached to the existence of umbilical 
 hernia in foals than in calves ; but when these are intended for store 
 stock, it is desirable to reduce the hernia at once. 
 
 " In most cases umbilical hernia is distinguishable at some little 
 distance from the animal, by the swelling or pouch-like tumour 
 which indicates its existence. An examination of the enlargement 
 of the navel (umbilicus) will lead to the detection of an opening in 
 the walls of the abdomen, through which the contents of the sac 
 may be gradually pressed by careful manipulation, but which return 
 and swell the tumour to its original size immediately that the pres- 
 sure is removed. 
 
 " In treating umbilical hernia, some mechanical means must be 
 devised for the purpose of overcoming the tendency to the descent 
 of the intestine through the opening in the abdominal walls. An 
 operation which is usually performed generally effects the desired 
 end. In the first place the animal, foal or calf of six weeks or two 
 months old, must be cast and placed on its back. The hobbles 
 which are used for casting colts for castration, by pulling up the 
 hind legs, are best for the purpose. When the animal is down, the 
 hind legs are to be secured against the body, and trusses of straw, or 
 sacks stuffed with straw, are to be so placed that it may be sup- 
 ported on its back. In this position the intestine will probably 
 return to the abdominal cavity without any manipulation ; but 
 should it not do so, the reduction of the hernia may be effected with- 
 out difficulty. This having been done, the next step in the operation 
 is to grasp with firmness the loose portion of skin which forms the 
 pouch in which the protruded intestine was contained, and then to 
 thrust an iron skewer, about four inches long, previously sharpened 
 for the purpose, through the sides of the pouch, and close to the 
 abdominal walls. If the integument has been held firmly, or rather 
 pinched, for a few minutes before being transfixed, the pain which is 
 inflicted is very trifling, and the animal offers no resistance. As 
 soon as the skewer has been passed through the pouch a piece of 
 whipcord is to be carried under it close to the animal's body, and 
 tied as tightly as possible at the base of the tumour. A few suc- 
 cessive turns of the twine may then be made, each one being securely 
 fastened, until it is quite certain that the portion of skin is strangu- 
 lated. The sharp end of the skewer may next be turned into the 
 form of a ring by the aid of small pliers, and the operation is com- 
 pleted. The skewer prevents the slipping of the ligature, and, if 
 
39 
 
 the cord has been drawn sufficiently tight, the part will bo effectually 
 strangulated, and will slough off in a week or ten days ; while the 
 swelling, which always follows the operation, tends to prevent the 
 return of the intestine, and favours the closure of the opening in the 
 abdomen. If the ligature has not been drawn tight enough, or the 
 skewer has been omitted, the swelling which subsequently occurs 
 causes the displacement of the cord, considerable irritation may 
 follow, and at best the operation has to be repeated." 
 
 The ointment of neutral chromate of potash, as above stated, is 
 recommended as a substitute for the operation, and it is said to 
 answer the purpose admirably ; but it cannot be more effective, and 
 it is questionable if it is more humane in its mode of action. When 
 the strangulated portion of skin has sloughed off no fm'ther treat- 
 ment is required, the animal is not subject to a return of the affec- 
 tion, and is practically as sound as though it had not been the 
 subject of hernia. 
 
 Lq very slight cases feed solely on a limited quantity of bruised 
 oats, and nature will in most cases effect a cure. Should this not 
 be the case have a roller with a pad placed over the rupture and 
 kept there for six or seven weeks until the hole is perfectly closed ; 
 the gut, if it protrudes, to be put up with the finger before applying 
 the pad. The roller would be improved by having a small piece 
 of gutta-percha or Indian-rubber added to the bandage for elasticity 
 in lying down and rising. It is indispensable to keep the gut up by 
 the bandage for the time being, when the hole will gradually close 
 up. The foal should be kept in a loose box, where it could be 
 frequently visited to see the bandage was all right. 
 
 A veterinary surgeon of considerable standing recommends to pine 
 the foal nearly to death, but to do it gradually. By keeping the foal 
 very short of food and water, the contraction of the intestinal and 
 other tissues is so great that the gut is drawn out of the scrotum, 
 and the opening before-mentioned becomes much smaller in conse- 
 quence. In course of time, if you find the hernia reduced, put the 
 foal on to more liberal diet, but do it gradually, and with food con- 
 taining great nutritive powers, avoiding for a time that of a bulky 
 nature, such as hay, straw, grass, and water. 
 
 HroEBOUND. 
 
 The ''hidebound " is the result of derangement of the digestive 
 organs. Give the horse a powder composed of calomel lOgr., 
 tartarised antimony 'iOgr., powdered gentian 2dr., every other day 
 in his food for a fortnight. 
 
40 
 
 For dietetic treatment give a medium temperature, pure air, food 
 and water in proper quantity, and of good quality ; good grooming, 
 and exercise proportioned to the amount of food given and the 
 strength of the animal, but always regularly. If the amount of 
 food has been hitherto excessive, the quantj.ty should be reduced. 
 A change of diet is also most desirable. Medicine may be given in 
 the food, in the form of powder, if it is not found to prevent the 
 animal feeding, A mixture of alkalies with vegetable tonics will 
 promote digestion and improve the secretions. A good mixture is 
 one drachm of bicarbonate of potash, with half an ounce of pow- 
 dered gentian, given daily, and a portion of rock salt kept in the 
 manger. Should no benefit result from this system, it will be 
 evident there is some yet undiscovered cause, which must be sought 
 for. 
 
 HOCKS ENLABQED. 
 
 Administer every other day a ball containing half a drachm of 
 :,he iodide of iron, and apply around the hocks linen bandages to be 
 ke])t continually moist with tincture of arnica and cold water — a 
 wine glass of the former to half a pint of the latter. 
 
 HOOFS, TO PROMOTE THE GROWTH OF. 
 
 A mixture of equal parts of tar, tallow, and Venice turpentine, 
 melted with a little wax to form an ointment, will promote the 
 growth of the hoofs, and improve their condition. A small portion 
 of the ointment should be daily rubbed round the upper part of the 
 hoof under the hair of the coronet, immediately at the point of 
 junction of the integument and the horn. 
 
 INFLUENZA. 
 
 In the spring and autumn influenza generally prevails among 
 horses. It is also very prevalent among young horses when intro- 
 duced to stal^le life for the first time. Influenza is distinguished 
 from ordinary cold principally by extreme prostration. Always of a 
 low fever type, influenza presents itself under various forms. Some- 
 times the liver is principally affected, and bilious fever is the result ; 
 at other times the chief irritation is in the throat, the head is 
 protruded, and the act of deglutition is difficult. Occasionally the 
 bronchial tubes are implicated, and much disturbance of the respi- 
 ralion occurs. Dropsical swellings are not unfrequently observed 
 in different parts of the body, principally in the extremities, but 
 also, in some instances, under the throat, in front of the chest, 
 and underneath the belly : this occurs principally on the fourth 
 
41 
 
 day. The first form of the disease is always marked by intense 
 yellowness of the membrane of the mouth, and also, to a less 
 extent, of that of the eyes and nostrils when the liver is affected ; 
 also by shivering fits. When the lar}mx and bronchial tubes are 
 principally affected, the cough is frequent and painful, and the 
 mucous membrane of the mouth, eyes, and nostrils is red instead 
 of yellow in colour, the breathing is commonly accelerated, and the 
 pulse quick and feeble. The dung is voided in small quantities and 
 dry, and the urine is high coloured. 
 
 The symptoms are general appearance of dejection, rapid breath- 
 ing, discharge from the nostrils, sometimes confined only to one, 
 and more frequently the left ; flow of tears from the eyes, and 
 extremities cold. In this stage administer stimulants, with a mild 
 purgative, the stimulants every three hours. Should this prove 
 ineffectual, give one drachm of carbonate of ammonia largely diluted 
 in water, and given every two hours until the oppression is removed. 
 This is a good prescription for congestion of the lungs. 
 
 At the first appearance of catarrh give for food all that is most 
 digestable, such as scalded and crushed oats, boiled caiTots, &c., &c. ; 
 give bran mashes with a teaspoonful of nitre, and, immediately, 
 a ball contaming 3drs. of aloes; and administer thrice daily Idr. 
 carbonate of ammonia in a pint of water until the symptoms subside. 
 
 Treatment of influenza must always be either negative or stimu- 
 lating, never sedative or depressing in its effects. When it is 
 necessary to allay irritation, small dozes of opium may be given, 
 but the majority of cases do better without any narcotic treatment. 
 Counter-irritants are always beneficial when the lar3mx or bronchial 
 membrane suffers from inflammation ; and they are also indicated 
 when the lungs are congested, which is frequently the case in weak 
 animals. Mustard poultices are quite as effectual as blisters, and 
 may be safely applied to the throat, chest, or sides, if the state of 
 the breathing renders it necessary. Internal remedies will comprise 
 salines, with ammonia and vegetable tonics. A very good mixture 
 for the early stage of the disease is composed of carbonate and 
 nitrate of potash, one drachm of each, dissolved in a pint of water, 
 to which half an ounce of aromatic spirit of ammonia may be added. 
 When the prostration is exceedingly marked, sulphuric ether, half 
 an ounce, may also be added to the draught, and in many instances 
 an ounce of tincture of gentian may be advantageously substituted 
 for the ammonia. 
 
 The horse may be tempted with any kind of food which is 
 obtainable. A preference is generally given to succulent diet : but 
 
42 
 
 V 
 
 some horses will cat a little clover hay when nothing else is palatable 
 to them ; others prefer clean straw, which is least desirable ; and 
 some refuse all food, and have to be supported on gruel, with the 
 addition of good ale or stout. 
 
 Good nursing is very important. The sick animal will require a 
 roomy, well-ventilated, loose box ; water should be kept within 
 reach. A tonic mixture composed of one drachm of dilute hydro- 
 chloric or nitric acid with an ounce of tincture of gentian in a pint 
 of water should be given once a day. Sulphate of iron is also a 
 very good tonic, and may be given for a fortnight or three weeks. 
 Bhould it produce feverishness with a scantiness of urine, stop it 
 at once. 
 
 Where the horse's joints and limbs are swollen, rub the joints 
 and legs daily with a liniment composed of equal parts of olive oil 
 and turpentine. Give a nutritious diet, together with caiTots, and 
 keep the bowels gently open. Do not bandage the legs or bathe 
 them ; the cold has greater effect on the limbs after the removal of 
 the bandages, and the warm water opens the pores of the skin, 
 rendering the adjacent parts more susceptible of cold. All work 
 should be moderate ; but, when the animal has acquired sufficient 
 strength, work will be beneficial. 
 
 INTESTINAL CALCULUS. 
 
 Administer thrice weekly, in solution, -Joz. of nitre, and of car- 
 bonate of ammonia and aloes Idr. each. 
 
 IODIDE OF lEON. 
 
 Its effects are similar to those of the sulphate of iron ; it is 
 not generally given in ordinary cough, but in the chronic cough 
 which arises often from weakness, it is sometimes of service. It 
 may be given to horses in work. 
 
 IODINE OINTMENT. 
 
 Iodine, lOgr. ; iodide of potassium, from -Jdr. to Idr. ; lard, loz. 
 
 KNUCKLING OVER. 
 
 In all probability the horse has been worked at too early an age. 
 Eest and blistering, followed by cold bandages, or turning into a 
 strawy ard or marsh for some months, will possibly restore the joints. 
 
 LAMPAS. 
 
 Lampas is a disease of the palate, which, immediately behind the 
 
43 
 
 upper incisor teeth, becomes swollen and tender, and projecting 
 down below the edges of the teeth causes pain in the attempt to 
 bite the food. The tumefaction is sometimes considerable, and 
 foi-rns a mechanical obstruction. 
 
 Young animals are most subject to lampas during the change of 
 the milk teeth between two and five years of age : but horses are 
 very often affected. In most cases no remedies beyond a little 
 cooling medicine, as a dose of nitre in a mash for two or three 
 nights, with a wash of alum-water, will be necessary. If there is 
 much tumefaction and redness a few punctures will afford relief at 
 once, but the removal of the swollen gum could only be necessary 
 under extraordinary circumstances, and then it should be done by a 
 competent veterinary sui'geon. 
 
 LICE IN HOESES. 
 
 Wash first with soft soap and warm water, and then with 1 part of 
 carbolic acid to 60 parts water. Feed moderately and give gentle 
 exercise. 
 
 LIQUOR ARSEXICALI3. 
 
 The proper dose for a horse is ^oz. daily, if not continued longer 
 than two months. 
 
 LOOSENESS. 
 
 Give rice water instead of ordinary water, and not more than a 
 gallon per day of it. There are some horses so washy that nothing 
 will have the effect of stopping the looseness. The hay and corn 
 should be of the best quality, and the latter should be bruised. 
 
 LOTIONS. 
 
 Of all applications water is most used. It is useful for two 
 purposes — either to lower the temperature of a portion of the body, in 
 which case the water application must be kept constantly cold ; or 
 else to stimulate the part to renewed and increased action. This 
 latter may be done by dashing cold water over the part, and then 
 rubbing until dry, or by putting a dry bandage over the wetted part. 
 Lotions of all kinds are most generally applied by means of bandages. 
 They are of three kinds : — (1) Dry bandages, usually of woollen 
 material, used when it is necessary to protect the extremities from 
 cold or to confine the heat. (2) Wet bandages are adapted to the 
 treatment of different forms of disease or injury. It is generally 
 admitted that wet bandages should not be allowed to dry on the 
 logs. One obvious reason is, that if icet bandages are required, they 
 
44 
 
 cannot become dry without a loss of the desired action, and there is 
 also the fact that the material contracts during the process of 
 drying, and, if the bandage was applied with sufficient pressure at 
 first, the amount exerted by it when dry will be injurious. And a 
 third form of bandage is a wet roller covered with a dry one. This 
 method of applying pressure is advisable when it is required to 
 allay irritation at the same time that support is to be afforded to 
 relaxed or divided structures, as in cases of contused wounds or 
 severe sprains. 
 
 MANE, TO MAKE GKOW. 
 
 Rub into the roots of the hair a mixture of equal parts of neats- 
 foot oil and spirits of turpentine. 
 
 MANGE. 
 
 Give gentle purgatives, wash the skin with warm water and soap, 
 and then apply mercurial ointment 2oz., camphor l^dr., liquor of 
 ammonia 1-^oz., neat's-foot oil 4oz., well mixed together. No 
 difficulty is experienced in curing the disease in the incipient stage. 
 
 Mange is sometimes so universally spread over the animal's body, 
 that as fast as one part is cured another breaks out. In long- 
 continued and neglected instances of the affection the acari are 
 spread over the body, and are protected by the numerous hardened 
 crusts and scabs, and in the deep furrows which are formed in 
 various parts of the skin, and so escape the action of the remedies. 
 Besides, the remedies are seldom, if ever, applied to every part of the 
 skin ; and generally only the diseased parts are dressed. In this 
 way a second attack of the disease may take place in a fortnight, or 
 less, and future partial dressings may have the same results again 
 and again. 
 
 Internal remedies may be used in the treatment of obstinate 
 mange in cases where the condition is in the direction of plethora 
 or emaciation. The scabs can generally be got rid of by a good 
 washing with soft soap and warm water, aided by a hard brush. 
 After the washing, one of the many washes which are used for the 
 cure of mange may be applied over the skin freely, and well rubbed 
 in with a brush. A piece of an old spok(3 brush answers very 
 well for this work. The dressing should be very carefully 
 and completely used to every part of the skin where the disease 
 exists. 
 
 Mange dressings generally contain mercury, arsenic, hellebore, or 
 tobacco, or otherwise some preparation containing turpentine and 
 
45 • 
 
 tar oil is employed. The latter remedies are more efifective than 
 the former — are, besides, non-poisonous, and very readily obtained. 
 Mangy horses certainly ought to be removed from the stables where 
 other animals are placed. Tar dressing is made by mixing tar 
 oil, oil of turpentine, and any common animal oil — as train oil — 
 together in equal portions. Washing with soft soap and warm water 
 is necessary before each dressing, and if much scurfy matter is found 
 on the skin the currycomb may be used. 
 
 Mercurial ointment is a very good application for mange in the 
 early stage ; but it cannot be used with safety where a considerable 
 portion of the body requires to be di^essed. For mild cases a slight 
 friction with the ointment on those parts where an eruption appears 
 will perhaps be sujBScient ; but if it is determined to use the remedy 
 in more advanced cases, it is necessary to dilute it with oil, in the 
 proportion of four to eight parts to one of the ointment, according 
 to the extent of surface which is to be covered. 
 
 Infusion of tobacco with white hellebore was at one time a ver}^ 
 favourite remedy. 
 
 Carbolic acid, and the different mixtures of which it forms the 
 active ingredient, are excellent for the cure of those diseases which 
 are dependent upon the presence of acari. The acid may be mixed 
 with water or with glycerine, or, if applied to isolated spots of 
 diseases, the undiluted acid may be used, a small quantity being 
 brushed over the part. The general plan, however, and the one 
 which is most effective and safe, is to first make a solution of soft 
 soap in wann water, and then add one part of carbolic acid to 
 thirty or forty of the soap solution according to the severity of the 
 case. This dressing may be applied all over the animal's body after 
 the preliminary washing, and will require to be repeated once or twice 
 at intervals of eight or ten days. The acid is the kuid which is sold 
 retail by the manufacturers at four shilhngs the gallon ; the black 
 stuff which commonly does duty for carbolic acid is quite inopera- 
 tive. 
 
 A peculiar form of mange is occasionally produced by the trans- 
 ference of the parasites which infest poultry to the skin of the horse, 
 and in all cases where a poultry house is near a stable there is a risk 
 of the disease being established. The affection never assumes the 
 obstinate character of true mange, and the acari are readily destroyed 
 by the application of the carbolic acid dressing. 
 
 The stable should be thoroughly whitewashed and fumigated with 
 sulphur. Some practitioners dress the affected parts with equal 
 quantities of creosote and spirits of wine and water. 
 
46 
 
 MEGRIMS. 
 
 Megrims or epilepsy is tlie result of pressure on the brain. The 
 early symptoms gi-adually present themselves. The horse goes oif 
 his feed, stands with his chin resting on the manger, and staggers 
 slightly in his gait ; these subside only to assume on a future 
 occasion a more decided type, when the animal leans against the 
 stall and falls if an attempt be made to move him ; he sleeps or 
 stands seemingly unconscious of surrounding objects ; pulls from 
 his rack a lock of hay, half masticates it, and drops it from his 
 mouth; when attempting to drink he is unable to swallow, and 
 the water is ejected from the nostrils. 
 
 The above signs of megrims are noticeable in the stable, but, if 
 such an animal be driven in harness, then symptoms of a most 
 aggravated type speedily occur. The muscles of the head begin to 
 twitch, convulsions supervene, when the horse falls unconsciously 
 forward. 
 
 Megrims is sometimes caused by congestion of the brain resulting 
 from a plethoric state of system. This state may be produced by 
 over-feeding and by not giving sufficient work, or it may be 
 obtained physically, by pressure of the collar at the root of the 
 neck. It does not confine its attacks to over-conditioned horses, but 
 is common to lean and hard-w^orked ones. Where such is the case 
 we find that it is the result of pressure on the brain, caused either 
 by tumours or by an impervious state of the jugular vein, or some 
 important bloodvessel. Megrims the result of these last-named 
 causes is incurable. 
 
 Free bleeding and purging, with turpentine clysters, will be 
 required, and will generally afford relief ; if, however, the horse con- 
 tinues drowsy after their action, the head should be blistered, and 
 a rowel inserted under the jaw, together with the internal use of 
 nitre, tartar emetic, and digitalis, in doses of one ounce of the 
 first and a drachm of the two last every four hours. 
 
 f 
 
 MUD FEVER. 
 
 The worst effects always arise when the mud is left to become 
 dry on the skin ; therefore great care should be taken to wash the 
 mud off the legs and the belly as quickly as possible. This may be 
 done roughly by riding the horse through a pond ; but it is better to 
 have a more complete cleansing with soft soap and water, followed 
 by the free application of a wisp of dry straw. Should there be no 
 possibility of doing anything until the animal reaches his stable, 
 
47 
 
 the first tiling will be to tlioronghly reraove the mud by means of a 
 biTish, with waiTii water containing a little common soda or potash. 
 After the sm'face of the skin has been properly dried, a little 
 glycerine may be applied to those parts where signs of irritation are 
 apparent. If inflammation increases and the horse shows signs of ill 
 health, and indicates the uneasiness which he suffers by violent stamp- 
 ing and rubbing his legs together, more active treatment will be re- 
 quired. Cooling medicine — a drachm each of nitrate and bicar- 
 bonate of potash — should be given daily in a mash ; the irritated skin 
 should be frequently sponged with a sedative lotion — half an ounce of 
 tincture of aconite to two quarts of water, and the horse should be 
 allowed a cool loose box. It is necessary to tie the animal's head 
 up in some cases to prevent him tearing his legs, otherwise he is 
 much better loose. The loss of hair which accompanies the severer 
 forms of the disease is a matter of no moment beyond the temporary 
 blemish, and after the acute s}Tnptoms have subsided the growth of 
 hair may be promoted by the occasional use of very weak mercurial 
 ointment ; but this must not be applied while irritation of the skin 
 continues. ^ 
 
 MUSTARD EMBEOCATION. 
 
 It is mixed in the same way as when used for the table with 
 water, made about the consistence of thick cream, and rubbed on 
 the part affected. For slight coughs, occasioned by irritation of the 
 mucous membrane lining the windpipe, it is an excellent remedy. 
 It acts speedily and effectually, without producing any blemish. 
 
 NASAL GLEET. 
 
 Try the effect of Idr. of sulphate of copper, with -|oz. of powdered 
 gentian, in the food every other day for a fortnight. It is very 
 desirable that a competent veterinary surgeon should be consulted, 
 as there is a possibility of glanders. 
 
 NAYICULAE LAMENESS. 
 
 Any sudden step, such as a "false step," treading upon a stone 
 whilst in a gallop, in short, any violent step on a hard substance, 
 during which the tendon which passes over the navicular bone is 
 injured, will cause navicular joint disease. All feet, whether ill 
 or well-shaped, are equally hable to this disease. True navicular 
 disease, the effect of the cause, is the presence of an ulcerated spot, 
 either on the surface or embedded in the midst of the navicular 
 bone. 
 
 A correspondent of the Field says : — " The symptoms of navicular 
 
48 
 
 disease are peculiar, and in well marked cases not easily mistaken. 
 It is commonly noticed in the early stage of the disease that a horse 
 goes a 'little feeling,' and is inclined to tread with the toes rather 
 than with the flat surface of the foot. In addition, the animal will 
 often be detected in the act of 'pointing,' that is, thrusting one 
 foreleg in advance of the other while he is standing in the stable. 
 It must not be concluded that this habit alone is significant of 
 navicular disease, but, taken in consideration with other signs, it 
 possesses a certain value. The feet affected with navicular disease 
 are never, as a rule, hot, more often they are cold. The lameness 
 which attends it increases while the animal is at rest, and is often 
 much relieved by exertion. 
 
 "In cases of long standing, contraction and what is termed 
 * wiring in ' of the heels will always be noticed, because, when suf- 
 fering from disease in the posterior part of the foot, a horse natu- 
 rally endeavours to relieve that part from pressure ; and, from 
 whatever cause it may arise that the weight of the animal is taken 
 off the heels, contraction is the immediate result. Of all the symp- 
 toms which belong to navicular disease, the one which is least liable 
 to be misinterpreted is the peculiar toe action, which is best seen 
 when the animal is first brought from the stable. Immediately that 
 a horse affected with navicular disease is seen to be lame, the shoe 
 should be removed and the sole of the foot cut out until it yields 
 readily to the pressure of the thumb ; the heels should be mode- 
 rately lowered and the toe shortened as much as the hoof will bear ; 
 the shoe should then be ' laid off ' at the heels in such a way that 
 when firmly nailed to the crust there shall remain sufficient space 
 between the iron and the horn to permit the passage of a flattened 
 straw for the distance of a couple of inches from the heels forward ; 
 this arrangement will relieve the heels from undue pressure, and 
 allow any movement, either of contraction or expansion, to continue 
 unchecked. The withdrawal of blood from the vessels of the foot 
 may now be effected before the shoe is fastened on, if it has pre- 
 viously been determined that the operation is necessary ; but in many 
 cases where the lameness is slight, the proper adaptation of the shoe, 
 and the subsequent use of wet swabs to the feet, will restore sound- 
 ness for the time being. If the operation of bleeding from the toe 
 is performed, the horse will require a fortnight's rest at least before 
 being put to work ; and if the wound made in the foot does not 
 heal readily, three weeks or a month may be necessary. Various 
 expedients have been had recourse to for the purpose of keeping the 
 hoofs in a moist state. The constant use of wet swabs will gene- 
 
49 
 
 rally answer the purpose ; but placing the horse in a box or stall, 
 some portion of the floor of which is covered with wet clay, is a plan 
 of treatment which used to be very popular. When the lameness is 
 severe or recurs at short intervals, some more active measures are 
 generall}' adopted, and bleeding from the toe is followed by a re- 
 peated application of blisters to the coronets and across the heels ; 
 very bad and long-standing cases are often much benefited by this 
 treatment. 
 
 '' Frog setons are occasionally verv effective in the treatment of 
 navicular lameness, but they require a rest of six weeks or two 
 months in order to gain the full benefit from their action. The 
 operation is performed by passing a needle armed with tape through 
 the centre of the frog, and causing it to emerge at the upper part of 
 the heel under the fetlock. The tape is to be knotted in the ordi- 
 nary way, and smeared with a little blister or turpentine ointment. 
 During the time it is allowed to remain in, which will be probably a 
 fortnight or three weeks, it must be moved once every day, other- 
 wise the opening will become blocked up. and the matter accumulate 
 in the interior of the foot. In passing the seton needle through the 
 frog it is necessary to exercise care in directing its course, to avoid 
 injuring the flexor tendon ; otherwise no danger attends the ope- 
 ration. 
 
 •'•' The particular method of shoeing applicable to cases of navicular 
 disease, will require modification according to circumstances. It is 
 desirable, if possible, to gradually lower the heels which have 
 become contracted and upright, and to have the shoes laid off at the 
 heels in the manner previously suggested ; but if it be found that 
 the frogs cannot be brought near the ground without the lameness 
 being increased, thick-heeled shoes must be employed to elevate the 
 heels and keep the frogs from the ground.'" 
 
 The division of the nerves above the fetlock joint will effect a 
 permanent cure. 
 
 Some surgeons contend that the disease may be cured in its early 
 stages by strong counter-irritants. 
 
 As soon as the horse is sufiiciently prepared, apply the firing-iron 
 effectually round the coronet, which is the seat of much pain in this 
 affection, making six or seven strokes about one and a-half inches 
 long, and continue each of these strokes down the hoof for about an 
 inch. Apply a strong blister over the whole. When this blister 
 has peeled off apply a second, which is usually sufficient to effect a 
 cure in bad cases. Turn the horse out into a field or loose box, 
 where he can exercise himself. In mild cases, the application of a 
 
50 
 
 sharp liniment round tlie coronet, and keeping the horse at gentle 
 work in harness if possible, will frequently effect a cure. 
 
 OVERREACH. 
 
 Overreach is an accident almost confined to hunters. Over- 
 reaching in the hunting field produces a wound on one or other of 
 the bulbs of the heel, by tearing down the horn covering from the 
 true skin where the hair terminates above, over the inner or outer 
 half of the frog, according to the side on which the hind foot has 
 struck the fore. A bruise of more or less intensity is produced 
 with the tear, and on that depends the degree of pain caused. An 
 overreach is always more formidable in appearance than it is in 
 reality; it seldom need cause a hunter to lose a day's work, or, at 
 most, to postpone his turn for more than one or two days. 
 
 Mr. Gamgee advocates the following treatment, which we have 
 found to be thoroughly efficacious. He says: '•When a horse 
 comes into the stable with a wound from an overreach, let him be 
 dressed all over except the foot injured ; then taking a pail of water 
 comfortably warm, put the foot into it, and continue fomenting the 
 leg and foot until the dirt is removed. Examine the overreach, 
 then ascertain the extent of the wound, and whether it be freed 
 from all gravel, foreign matter, &c. ; the leg and foot should be 
 sponged and rubbed dry with cloths, and some soft tow wetted with 
 warm water laid over the wound, and a flannel bandage, similarly 
 moistened, is to be put round the coronet, and tied so as not to 
 press on the wound. The next day the bandage and tow may be 
 changed, when it w411 be found that the cure will be well advanced. 
 These may be removed after forty-eight hours, and the detached soft 
 horn will by next day be shrivelled, and of little substance. When 
 the line of demarcation between the dead and the living textures is 
 obvious, the former may be detached with a small knife or scissors." 
 
 The time-honoured system of curing overreach was by cleaning 
 the wound thoroughly, applying an active astringent or caustic mix- 
 ture, and strapping the surface with a plegit of tow, making all 
 tight with a bandage. 
 
 PRICK. 
 
 When a horse becomes lame, and upon an examination of the 
 legs no sufficient cause is discovered, the shoe should be carefully 
 taken off and the foot well pared out. If the cause is not then 
 visible, the cautious application of the pincers or a rapping round 
 the hoof with a hammer, will disclose the seat of the injury, by 
 caasing the animal to w^ince. This ascertained, remove all pressure 
 
51 
 
 from the part by paring away the sole and dressing the foot with 
 some soothing application, such as Friar's balsam, stopping the 
 foot lightly afterwards with some tow. The shoe must be so made 
 as to spring off the affected part ; and on no account must any 
 nails be driven in near the wound. If the case be taken in time, 
 these means will generally be sufficient ; but, if it be neglected, 
 the inflammation will increase, and matter form underneath the 
 sole. If it comes to this, free exit must be provided, or the matter 
 will find for itself the easiest escape through the soft parts above 
 it, thereby giving rise to quittor, false quarter, &c. Having made a 
 free exit, and well pared out the foot, the dressing should be applied 
 according to the kind of matter in the wound, and the foot put into 
 a waiTu bran-poultice, first fomenting it with hot water by placing 
 the horse's foot in a bucket for an hour or more, giving the animal 
 at the same time a dose of purgative medicine and perfect rest. 
 The fomentations and poultices may be continued for a day or two. 
 
 The wounds caused by treading on foreign substances may also be 
 treated in the same way; and great care should be taken with them, 
 as they often give rise to lock-jaw. 
 
 As soon as the foot is found to be cool, and the action is sound, a 
 simple dressing of tar with tow over the wound will suffice, and, as 
 in com, a leather sole will be of use for the first shoeing, for the 
 purpose of protecting the parts until the horn has again become 
 firm and able to bear contact with the ground. 
 
 PEOFUSE STALING. 
 
 Give iodide of potassium 2 dr. in a pint of water, and repeat the 
 dose in two days. 
 
 PCEGATR'E, A. 
 
 Mix in a mash a scruple and a half of pulverised croton seeds. 
 A horse when undergoing the effects of purgative medicine, should 
 be kept in the stable. To administer physic, and then turn out, is 
 very dangerous treatment. 
 
 QUITTOR. 
 
 A quittor is a wound situated on the coronet, communicating 
 with a sinus in the foot. It arises from injuries inflicted on the 
 foot, which injuries are sometimes the result of a prick from a 
 nail in shoeing, or are caused by a stub or tread. Quittor most 
 commonly arises, however, from a corn which, from being neg- 
 lected, has run into the suppurative stage. The usual seat of 
 this disease is the inner side of the coronet of one of the hind 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 feet. Its first appearance is in the form of a hard prominent 
 tumonr, characterised by its heat and much tenderness on pressure. 
 As it matures, the hair gradually drops off, leaving the affected part 
 a bare dry spot. The treatment for quittor would of course vary in 
 many cases : but, as a rule, let the foot be well pared out, and the 
 wounds cleaned ; then let a bar-shoe be fitted out so that no pressure 
 is applied to the affected parts ; then by the use of astringent or 
 caustic agents, as the case may be, attempt to set up healthy action. 
 If there be much inflammation a poultice may be used, or the 
 wound may be dressed with some preparation of opium. Some have 
 recommended arsenic, others verdigris, and others blue vitriol. 
 
 A well-known author thus writes as to the best treatment : " A 
 quantity of caustic is introduced into the sinuses, and dead matter is 
 subsequently sloughed out in the form of a 'core,' and if the case 
 goes on favourably, healthy structure is formed in its place ; if not, 
 a repetition of the treatment is called for. Corrosive sublimate is 
 one of the most powerful remedies, and is used in the form of 
 powder, which is rolled up in paper and passed into the sinuses, or 
 mixed with an equal weight of flour and made into a paste with 
 water, the mass being moulded into small rods of a convenient size, 
 which, when dr}^, are thiTist into the sinuses in the same manner as 
 the paper tubes. Sulphate of zinc is a very good caustic, and may 
 be either introduced into the canal in small pieces, or in powder, or 
 injected in the fonn of a strong solution. Chloride of zinc (disin- 
 fecting fluid) is also frequently injected, either in its undiluted state 
 or mixed with various proportions of water. After the caustic dress- 
 ing has been applied, a poultice should be tied over the whole of 
 the foot to alleviate the pain and inflammation which will certainly 
 follow. In the course of a few days the slough, or ' core, ' will 
 propably come away in the midst of a poultice ; and if the wound 
 should then assume a healthy character, very little beyond mild 
 dressings, such as poultices or warm water applications will be 
 necessary. But should the dense texture of the sinuses be again 
 formed, a repetition of the caustic will be necessary, and it may be 
 desirable to use stronger remedies ; the hot iron is in favour with 
 some practitioners." 
 
 RHEUMATISM. 
 
 Give daily in a ball -^dr. of iodide of iron, and work moderately. 
 
 RINGBONE. 
 
 One drachm of the biniodide of mercury ointment should be 
 mixed with loz. of lard, and rubbed in daily till it produces a dis- 
 
53 
 
 charge, which should be kept up with hot fomentations. Firing 
 reduces the inflammation which is the cause of the unnatural 
 growth of bone, and in that way acts beneficially. 
 
 Eingbone is a growth of bone from bone, situated around the 
 coronet, mostly near the pastern joint, at other times just above it ; 
 and not unfrequently the coffin bone and pastern bone become 
 united together by bony growth. Eingbones are the result of 
 hereditary predisposition, structural organisation, and accident. 
 The disease may be produced by a blow to the part, and from 
 the efforts made to increase speed, when concussion causes injury, 
 inflammation, and consequent exostosis to the bones of the pastern. 
 As to treatment, remove the shoes from the horse's feet, and turn 
 out to grass. If this, after a fair trial, fail, then the treatment 
 for spavin and other exostoses must be resorted to, such as blister- 
 ing the affected part, and keeping the animal on a low diet. 
 
 EINGWORM. 
 
 Apply, daily, over and around the ringworm an ointment con- 
 sistino- of one drachm of the iodide of zinc to the ounce of lard. 
 
 o 
 
 EOAEING AND WHISTLING. 
 
 An able correspondent of the Fldd thus describes the various 
 methods of detecting this malady : "' Eoaring and whistling are 
 generally detected during a canter ; very few horses manifest the 
 defect during a walk or slow trot ; and some animals, when only 
 affected to a trifling extent, give no evidence of unsoundness during 
 a gallop. In many cases of incipient whistling the sound is only to 
 be distinguished at the moment the canter is commenced. After a 
 few paces the breathing becomes perfectly natural, and continues so 
 until the horse is pulled up for a time, and again started after a few 
 minutes' rest ; for this reason it is very important that doubtful or 
 disputed cases should be examined after rest ; and, if possible, the 
 examiner should be upon the horse's back, in order that he may 
 have the opportunity of listening to the breathing at the instant the 
 animal commences to canter. Presuming that the horse under 
 examination bears this test well, and that neither to the listener in 
 the saddle or to anyone standing near is any unsoundness apparent. 
 the next step will be to stop the animal suddenly in his career, and 
 listen with the ear placed conveniently near to the openings of the 
 nostrils. Very frequently a slight whistle will be detected in this 
 way, when no unhealthy sound can be heard while the horse is can- 
 tering or galloping. 
 
54 
 
 ''Another method of detecting a roarer, in favour with man}-, is to 
 strike, or feint at striking, the horse on the body. If the animal so 
 treated, in addition to the usual signs of alarm, should give utterance 
 to a prolonged grunt, he is immediately designated by the con- 
 temptuous epithet of a 'bull,' being a smooth way of indicating 
 that he can and does 'roar.' One symptom which often exists in 
 connection with roaring is cough of a peculiar kind ; and among the 
 tests of soundness is the practice of squeezing the larjmx, or wind- 
 pipe, in order to cause the animal to cough, and thus betray by 
 the sound emitted the unsoundness which otherwise might remain 
 latent.'* 
 
 There is no cure for this malady : but by placing pads over the 
 nostrils with straps, so as to lessen their area, a horse may be 
 rendered capable of working with comparative ease. 
 
 Give the horse as little whole hay as possible, but feed him on 
 ground oats, chopped hay, and a regular daily supply of carrots. 
 
 Judicious management in the way of feeding, grooming, and exer- 
 cise may do much towards preserving a "roarer" in the best con- 
 dition for a long time. Medicines should generally be tonic in their 
 action. Iodide of potassium, in doses of half a drachm, with nitrate 
 of potash one drachm, and sulphur two drachms, may be combined, 
 and given in the food, either mash or corn, and repeated three times 
 a week, until some improvement takes place, when the medicine 
 should be discontinued for a time, and again employed in the same 
 manner so long as any benefit appears to attend its use. 
 
 EUBBINa MANE AND TAIL. 
 
 No. 1. — First ascertain the cause. Sometimes the tail is rubbed 
 from the irritation of worms, at others from lice in the roots of the 
 hair, and in others again from a heated state of the body. Wash 
 the affected parts daily with soft soap and hot water, rub dry, 
 and bathe with a solution of potash every other hour, and sprinkle 
 nightly over the corn twenty drops of liquor arsenicalis. Some use 
 a ^Ib. mercurial ointment mixed with lib. of the soft soap, allowing 
 the mixture to remain on a day or two and then washing clean with 
 warm water ; or the mercurial ointment may be used alone, rubbing 
 a small quantity well into the roots of the hair. 
 
 No. 2. — Apply a teaspoonfnl of sulphuric acid to half -pint distilled 
 water. Before applying the lotion, wash the affected parts with 
 soft soap and hot water, and then thoroughly dry. Rub the lotion 
 on the parts twice or thrice a day with a sponge. 
 
 No. 3. — Carbonate of soda, two teaspoonfuls ; distilled water, half- 
 
00 
 
 pint. Previous to the application, wash with soft soap and hot 
 water, and dry thoroughly. The washing need only take place before 
 the first application of the lotion, which is to be used twice or thrice 
 a-day. 
 
 No. 4. — Apply benzoline to the parts rubbed bare : it will stay 
 the itching, and destroy any vermin lodged about the parts. If 
 worms are suspected, give, by means of a horn, a mixture composed 
 of turpentine and linseed oil, of each 4oz. ; liquor potassse, Idr. ; 
 soft water, a pint ; to be well shaken together, each hornful ; in a 
 few days after a dose of aloetic medicine. If seat-worms, inject 
 turpentine, loz, ; linseed oil, 4oz. ; laudanum, loz. ; the yolks of a 
 couple of eggs, all beaten up together, with a quarter of a 
 pint of water, sufficiently hot to make the whole milk- warm. Or 
 bruise and boil ^oz. of cocculus indicus in a pint of water for 
 a few minutes ; strain, and when sufficiently cool inject same as 
 above. 
 
 No. 5. — Use strong acetic acid (wood vinegar). It is also an ex- 
 cellent remedy for irritation and eruptions on the skin. 
 
 No. 6. — Take new buttermilk, bottle it, tie it down tight in a 
 soda-water bottle, and leave it in a hot place to ferment for three or 
 four days, and then have it rubbed well into the skin of the mane 
 and tail. 
 
 No. 7. — The habit of rubbing the tail may generally be prevented 
 by pulling the cloth so far over the hind quarters that the tail 
 shall be covered to half its length. 
 
 No. 8. — Turpentine well rubbed in two or three times a week is a 
 specific. Some add to the turpentine tincture of cantharides in the 
 proportion of three parts of the former to one of the latter ; or 
 turpentine and neatsfoot oil in equal proportions. 
 
 No. 9. — loz. of sulphate of copper (powdered) added to 4oz. of 
 powdered linseed, aud a sufficient quantity of lard added to form a 
 mass. Divide it into loz. balls, one to be given every other day. 
 
 SANDCEACK. 
 
 Sandcrack is a fissure of the hoof, extending from above down- 
 wards. Both hind and fore feet are liable to these fissures, and they 
 may occur at various parts. In the fore-feet they are generally 
 found at the inside quarter. "WHien found in the hind-feet, it is 
 generally cart-horses that are effected, and the fissure occurs at the 
 front of the foot. Sandcracks, however, may occur in other parts. 
 The fissure sometimes extends but partially through the wall of the 
 foot, when it will probably not occasion any lameness, and by 
 
56 
 
 judicious treatment may not occasion any trouble ; but when the 
 fissure extends to the sensitive parts of the foot the horse suffers 
 great pain ; and. consequently, lameness is the result. In all cases, 
 if possible, give the horse rest. Where the case is one of a simple 
 fissure in the hoof, let the sole of the foot be well pared out, and 
 the crust lowered as much as possible ; then let the veterinary 
 surgeon draw out a hot iron longitudinally across at several parts, 
 not too deep : this stimulates the horn. After this he should take 
 some sticky substance — cobblers' wax will do ; melt some and draw 
 it over the crack, and then bind the foot all round with a broad 
 piece of tape, tying it as tight as possible, and cover the tape over 
 with wax, so as to prevent its getting out of place. This should be 
 repeated about every three weeks. If the horse is used, it should 
 be very gently ; but, if it can be rested, let the coronet be blistered. 
 At the same time, keep the foot well stopped with some hoof oint- 
 ment, so as to render it as supple as possible ; and, after recovery, 
 there must be very careful shoeing and careful use of the horse, as 
 sandcrack is very liable to recur. When the foot is inflamed, it is 
 probable that some dirt or irritating substance is in the wound ; then, 
 before applying the tape, put on a poultice to cleanse the wound, 
 after which the treatment above mentioned may be recurred to. In 
 case of fungus, destro}^ it with some caustic application before pro- 
 ceeding to any further treatment. A bad sandcrack will often take 
 many months to grow out. 
 
 The following are some recipes for the treatment of this disease 
 recommended by several correspondents : 
 
 No. 1 . — Common tar, honey, elder ointment (equal portions), to 
 be rubbed in between the hair and the hoof twice a week, or oftener, 
 if necessary. 
 
 No. 2. — Have the animal shod with thick felt placed between 
 the shoe and hoof, and keep the hoof itself well oiled. The felt 
 should be well steeped in oil. 
 
 No. 3. — Have a bar-shoe put on, and fire across the crack to the 
 quick, close to the coronet, where the crack does not extend to the 
 top of the hoof; fire through the hoof at the top of the crack at the 
 same time ; apply hard tallow and oil mixed in equal quantities 
 every night. The oil penetrates, and promotes the growth of the 
 hoof, and the tallow lies on the surface and excludes the wet ; it 
 should be applied warm. 
 
 No. 4. — The foot should be well rasped out, especially over and 
 upon the crack itself. A bar-shoe, chambered so as not to press 
 upon the hoof immediately under the crack, should be placed on 
 
57 
 
 the affected foot or feet ; and a blister should be applied around 
 the coronet and pasterns. 
 
 No. 5. — A tranverse incision should be made at the upper ex- 
 tremity of the crack, and one or two nails driven across and 
 embracing about one-third of an inch of horn on either side of the 
 fissure, clenching the nails as in shoeing, will be found to promote 
 a cure ; the animal in the meantime will perform his ordinary 
 work. In the future shoeings prevent the rasp from removing the 
 covering nature has provided as a protection to the fibres of the horn 
 from atmospheric influence. 
 
 No. G. — Another plan of treating sandcrack consists in cutting off 
 the communication between the upper portion of the fissm-e near 
 the coronary surface, and the lower portion, which extends to the 
 edge of the wall ; this is done by inclosing about an inch of the 
 upper part of the crack in a small square, the boundary lines of 
 which are cut deeply into the horn by means of a knife or firing 
 iron. The virtual effect is to prevent the upper part of the fissure, 
 which is thus isolated, from being affected by any movement which 
 may take place in the lower part. The inclosed space gradually 
 approaches the ground surface by consequence of the downward 
 growth of horn, and is ultimately cut out completely in the process 
 of shoeing, and the sound new structure remains. 
 
 SCOURING. 
 
 Scouring is not uncommon among excitable animals, and is not 
 easily remedied. Probably the digestive functions are disordered. 
 Try the following ball every second day : Extract of gentian, 2dr. ; 
 extract of taraxacum, 4dr. ; bicarbonate of potash. Idr. Modify the 
 diet by scalding the oats, and mixing a little bran and linseed tea 
 with them. 
 
 SEEDY TOE. 
 
 This affection consists in a hollow condition of the hoof in the 
 front of the foot, and is detected by the sound which is elicited 
 on tapping the part with a hammer. On removing the shoe an 
 opening or fissure will be apparent ; and if the dirt is picked 
 out it will probably be found to extend half way up towards the 
 coronet. 
 
 No. 1. — There are two ways of curing this disease. B}'' removing 
 the whole of the separated crust and false secretion, and applying a 
 thin flat iron protector with a hook-and-eye attachment to the shoe, 
 secured at the opposite end by a strap round the hoof ; by this 
 means a frequent and thorough dressing can always be easily secured. 
 
58 
 
 Apply tow impregnated with the following every fourth day : Fish 
 oil lib., oil of tar 3oz., sugar of lead -^-oz. A healthy secretion 
 will be established in a fortnight, provided the whole of the 
 diseased parts have been exposed. A frequent stimulant to the 
 coronet would be an advantage. Or by removing the false secretion 
 only, and pouring the above mixture warm into the cavity, after- 
 wards inserting the tow. Apply a shoe with one or two clips to 
 grip firmly the detached crust. 
 
 No. 2. — The shoe must be taken off in order to ascertain what 
 progress the disease has made, as well as to admit of the removal of 
 such parts of the hoof as it shall appear requisite to cut away, viz., 
 the undermined horn, as no reunion can take place between the 
 outer and inner crust. Fill up the hollow space thus made with a 
 plug of tar and tow, and avoid driving the nails near the affected 
 parts. The shoe best adapted for a seedy toe is a bar-shoe. If 
 rest can be given, blister round the coronet in addition to the above 
 treatment. 
 
 No. 3. — Carefully clean out every particle of sand and dirt from 
 the cavity between the hoof and sensible part of the foot, wash well 
 out with water by means of a goose -quill feather, then fill up the 
 cavity carefully with tow, and if possible avoid putting a nail through 
 the part of the hoof affected. Eepeat this process every time the 
 shoe is removed, and in time the hoof will unite with the foot. 
 Keeping the feet moist will hasten the process by accelerating the 
 growth of the hoof ; and apply a mixture of one part of tar, one part 
 of spirit of turpentine, and four parts of olive oil, by means of 
 a small brush to the coronet immediately above the hoof, for the 
 purpose of increasing its growth. All the defective horn should 
 be first removed from the "seedy toe." 
 
 SIDE-BONE. 
 
 Side-bone is the ossification of the lateral cartilages of the foot. 
 The long-continued application of the biniodide of mercury is the 
 most likely means to get rid of the bony growth, by absorption. 
 Mix two drachms with an ounce of lard, and rub in a little every 
 day over the enlargement. Firing is the most effective remedy, but 
 in cases where the lameness is trifling, tr}^ the effects of cold lotions, 
 followed by friction with stimulating liniments or blisters of biniodide 
 of mercury ointment, before the more severe method is adopted. In 
 very old cases, where a horse is rendered quite useless in consequence 
 of the excessive lameness, benefit has been obtained from a division 
 of the nerves above the fetlock joint. 
 
59 
 
 SKIN DISEASES, SURFEIT. ETC. 
 
 An able correspondent of the Field tliiis write.-^ : •• Two distinct 
 foi-ms of sui-feit, attended . with intense itching, occur very fre- 
 quenth^ among working horses, and are sometimes very difficult 
 to cure. One form of the disease is characterised by redness and 
 itching, without positive eruption ; and the other by itching, with 
 the breaking out of small pimples, which, however, are not 
 apparent unless the hair is divided carefully for the purpose of 
 searching for them. Both varieties of the derangement appear to 
 depend upon the same general causes — digestive disorder, arising 
 from the consumption of coarse or unaccustomed food, want of 
 exercise, imperfect grooming of the skin, and exposure to cold and 
 wet weather. Certain periods of the year are fruitful in the produc- 
 tion of these cases, and both spring and autumn are celebrated on 
 this account. 
 
 " Among the most successful of external remedies stands sulphur 
 in the form of ointment or soap. 
 
 '• Treatment of surfeit accompanied with irritation of the skin, 
 indicated by itching, should always in the acute stage be of a bland 
 character. A lotion composed of carbonate of potash, one part to 
 fifty parts of water, will be found very useful ; or, instead, one pint 
 of vinegar to four of water will be equally beneficial. The lotion 
 should be applied with a soft sponge, and repeated frequently until 
 the irritation subsides. Internal remedies ma}^ consist of alkalies 
 and saline laxatives ; bicarbonate of potash, with sulphate of mag- 
 nesia in alternation, may be administered in the food or water, and 
 the diet regulated by the animal's condition. Plethoric subjects 
 are often affected, and in their case exercise and low diet are neces- 
 sary ; but the treatment of the disease in emaciated animals must 
 be associated with a liberal regiJne. When the itching is relieved 
 by the use of the lotions prescribed, the integument should be 
 thoroughly washed with warm water and soap, and, if any bare 
 patches are observed, the use of a little mercurial ointment will 
 assist in restoring the hair. 
 
 '•' Surfeit of various kinds may be considered as the result of 
 internal disease. In its most common form of blotches, it depends 
 equally upon irritation of mucous membranes and obstruction of the 
 excretory functions of the skin. In hot weather, perfectly healthy 
 horses are frequently attacked, and at all seasons animals affected 
 with catarrh or influenza are often the subjects of the eruption. 
 Sometimes the • breaking out ' occurs suddenly, and immediately 
 
60 
 
 on the horse being removed from harness he becomes covered with 
 'lumps,' varying in size from a shilling to a small plate. 
 
 "■ The severity of the disease is not in proportion to the number 
 and size of the patches ; in many cases the disappearance of an 
 extensive eruption is as rapid as its outbreak, while the apparently 
 milder form of the attack, indicated by the presence of numerous 
 small lumps, commonly resists treatment for a long time, and in 
 some instances becomes chronic, assuming the character of " ring- 
 worm." Sometimes a minute opening appears in the centre of the 
 denuded spots, and an acrid discharge issues, adding to the unsightly 
 appearance by adhering to the surrounding hair, and ultimately 
 causing it to fall off. Treatment of this form of surfeit must be 
 regulated by the knowledge of the complications of the disease with 
 others of previous existence, When the eruption occurs during the 
 progress of influenza or catarrh, it is seldom necessary to modify 
 the treatment, excepting in so far as attention to the temperature of 
 the stable and the arrangement of the clothing are concerned ; but 
 the affection in its uncomplicated form requires to be dealt with by 
 active remedies, to prevent the subsidence into the chronic stage, 
 which is difficult of cure. 
 
 " As soon as the attack is observed — often immediately after the 
 horse is put into his stable on returning from a journey in summer, 
 or even before the preliminaries to his entrance are completed — a 
 dose of some diaphoretic medicine, aided by clothing, will frequently 
 effect an immediate cure. A very favourite nostrum for the treat- 
 ment of these sudden eruptions is compounded of aloes, tartarised 
 antimony and nitre, about two drachms of each, made into a ball, 
 and administered as soon as the blotches are perceived. If a repeti- 
 tion of the medicine becomes necessary, it is usually modified by 
 omitting the aloes, or diminishing the quantity, in order to avoid 
 purgation, which would interfere with the horse's work, although it 
 would not be detrimental in any other way. Bleeding was also a 
 remedy in common use at one time ; and generally successful. 
 ■Warm clothing is necessary, and for a few days it is desirable not to 
 expose the horse to cold or wet. Should the eruption become 
 chronic, and the hair fall off in circular patches, the means found 
 effectual in the acute stage are no longer of any use. The com- 
 pounds of iodine, employed both externally and internally, have 
 proved successful in most chronic cases, but only after considerable 
 perseverance. The ointment of the iodide of sulphur is a conve- 
 nient preparation for application to the denuded places, and at the 
 same time half a drachm of iodide of potassium may be adminis- 
 
61 
 
 tered daily in the liorse's food. No more powerful tonic remedies 
 will be necessary, unless the horse is in bad condition, or the appe- 
 tite fails, when a little gentian and ginger may be conjoined." 
 
 The following are some recipes recommended by various authorities 
 on skin eruption : — 
 
 No. 1. — Administer 8 drops of liquor arsenicalis twice daily in a 
 bran mash, for about five weeks or a month. 
 
 No. 2. — Liq. pot. iodide comp., 2oz. ; tine, camphorse, 3oz. ; acid, 
 nit. mur. dil. 3oz. Give him odr. twice a day in his water, and 
 continue for eleven days. Let him have the usual quantity of oats, 
 a bran mash twice a week, and some linseed tea and a few carrots 
 with his mid-day feed. He will require good grooming and moderate 
 work or exercise. 
 
 No. 3. — One ounce of sulphate of copper (powdered) added to 
 4oz, of powdered linseed, and a sufficient quantity of lard added to 
 form a mass, and divide it into loz. balls, one to be given every other 
 day ; five or six will cure. 
 
 No. 4. — Sponge the quarters with salt and water in the morning, 
 and again at noon if necessary. 
 
 No. 5. — Give daily 20 drops of Fowler's solution of arsenic, feed 
 upon carrots, and allow only one feed of corn per diem ; continue 
 the above treatment for five or six weeks. 
 
 Wash the skin twice weekly with soft soap and warm water, and 
 give daily ^oz. of liquor arsenicalis, and feed highly. 
 
 Wash the affected parts with a solution of carbonate of soda and 
 water, and administer daily -Joz. of liquor arsenicalis. 
 
 SOEE BACKS. 
 
 Wash the affected part in the first instance with lukewarm water 
 and a little common soap, and, when dry, apply sulphate of zinc and 
 alum in solution (equal parts of zinc and alum), say a large table- 
 spoonful of the mixture to a wine-bottle of water ; when this is 
 dissolved apply with a sponge, morning and evening, to the tender 
 part, and when dry lay on a dry chamois-leather to prevent the 
 clothes irritating it. The soap and water is to be used only once in 
 the first instance. Also obtain a very nice piece of sheepskin, 
 sufficient to place the saddle upon, with the woolly side to the 
 horse's back, and ride him in it. If the skin is broken and there is 
 a sore, and the wound healthy, apply a little Friar's balsam mixed 
 with pulverised gum arable, and proceed as above. 
 
 Again : Sulphate of zinc. -^oz. : sugar of lead, loz. ; salt, 3oz ; 
 vinegar, 1 pint ; water, 1 pint. Apply the lotion with a piece of 
 
62 
 
 sponge or soft rag the day before hunting, or oftener if necessary ; 
 keep it closely corked when not in use. 
 
 As a cure a strong solution of salt and alum and water, or 
 salt and water, is generally used in South Africa ; and fresh cow- 
 dung applied as a plaster is used with great success by natives and 
 others. 
 
 For ulcerations caused by saddle galls, wash the wound with hot 
 water, and apply a solution of caustic, made with ogrs. to loz. 
 distilled water, with a camel hair brush, and dress with an ointment 
 composed of lOgi's. red precipitate to loz, yellow basilicon, and 
 J^dr. of glycerine, all mixed together. Apply this for a few days 
 till nearly healed, then an ointment made with lOgr, i:ed precipitate 
 to loz. lard. 
 
 Prevention is at all times better than cure : below we give the 
 means of doing this as followed by the experienced in various parts 
 of the world. If in England get a '"mumnah." They are sold by 
 all London saddlers, as nothing beats them. They are placed 
 under the saddle, and, however badly it may be stuffed, or thin the 
 animal may be, the back will never become sore from rubbing or 
 pinching. When taken off, the mumnah should be allowed to dry 
 in the sun, and then, should any grease or dirt have formed on it, 
 beat it gently with a stick. The mumnah is made of compressed 
 hair ; it is used in our cavalry now. and has been found on service 
 to be of the greatest benefit. A good thing to do to a horse's 
 back, when first starting on a march, is to bathe the loins and 
 withers with a solution of salt and water, as it has the effect of 
 hardening the skin. Should a mumnah not be obtainable a piece of 
 common "blanket, folded four times and frequently washed, is good. 
 A saddle should be so stuffed that a riding whip can be passed 
 underneath between the back bone and saddle. Felt has been 
 recommended thus used : Get some felt at least a quarter of an inch 
 thick ; cut it into six strips the length of the inside of the saddle from 
 the cantle to the pommel, two strips of 2in. wide, two of about 
 oin.. and two wide enough to go from the outside edge of the cantle 
 stuffing to near the centre or dip. Sew the pieces of 2in, exactly 
 in the middle on the stuffing, from pommel to cantle, one on each 
 side ; the pieces of oin. sew over those of 2in,, and the other two 
 pieces over one and two ; this will raise the saddle clear of a horse's 
 withers and back bone, and will also preserve the stuffing of a 
 saddle for a long time, and can be easily renewed by fresh pieces 
 when it is observed that the saddle is getting too near the horse's 
 back. 
 
As a prevention of sore back nothing beats a good deep gullet to 
 the saddle, so that all pressure is taken off the spine of the horse, 
 and when the saddle is on, you ought, when standing at the horse's 
 tail, to be able to see along his back between the saddle and the skin. 
 This, by allowing a draught of air when riding, keeps the back 
 cool. All you have to do is to pull out a little of the stuffing of the 
 saddle till you can see along it ; the roughest stitching will do to 
 sew it up, as it will not then come in contact with the skin of the 
 horse, and could not rub him. Loosing the girths and lifting the 
 cantle after, and when practicable during, a ^\ann ride, is another 
 good preventive ; but of course care should be taken to get the 
 saddle comfortably home again before girthing up. 
 
 A very necessary precaution, and one often neglected, is never to 
 take the saddle entirely off until the horse is cool ; the girths should 
 be slackened only. When ttiken off, bathe the back with two parts 
 salt and one of alum and cold water ; if salt and alum be not forth- 
 coming, use spring water, and dry afterwards with a cloth. Use a 
 piece of sackcloth as a saddle cloth. If an English saddle be used, 
 this is sufficient ; if not, and a blanket is required, it must be used 
 in addition ; but the sackcloth should always be next the skin, as 
 woollen heats and irritates in hot weather, which is the invariable 
 cause of blisters terminating in a sore. If the horse's back is in 
 good firm condition, salt. Szc, must not be used too frequently ; but 
 cold water is always good. The saddle girths must be always kept 
 tight while mounted. 
 
 The Australians stuff their saddles in such a manner as to avoid 
 as far as possible sore batiks. Proceed thus : — First remove the 
 nails generally found in the middle of the pad behind, and be careful 
 that they come clean out. They are useless, and the constant cause 
 of sore backs. Take the pad out of the saddle, and remove all the 
 flock that they are generally stuffed with, and throw it away. Sew 
 the flannel lining to the back of the pad two, three, or four inches 
 wide, as may be required for the horse you want the saddle for, from 
 the pommel to the cantle on each side, so as to leave a space all 
 along the backbone empty, and free of stuffing of any kind. Fill 
 up the pad with the best curled horsehair, not ver}^ full, and put 
 the pad on the saddle again ; then, with a smooth flat piece of stick 
 and a packing needle, work the stuffing full and tight in front to take 
 the hollow at the back of the shoulder ; and when you come to the 
 centre stuff rather lighter, but under the seat very full, particularly 
 outside. When done, sew up the holes you will have to cut in the 
 serge lining about the middle to put the hair in, and sew the pad to 
 
G4 
 
 the tree, wliicli is done with a long, ver}- strong greased wax-end, as 
 if you were hieing it, and pull it tight afterwards. A horse in very 
 low condition will require the saddle to be perhaps 4in. thick at the 
 outside, measuiing over all. 
 
 The following are some applications recommended for the cure of 
 sore backs : — 
 
 No. 1. — Daub the parts daily with a lotion consisting of 3oz. 
 of Goulard's extract, and -^oz. of tincture of opium, in ^ pint of 
 distilled water. 
 
 No. 2. — One pound and a half of green vitriol (not blue), lib. 
 of alum, 2oz. of verdigris, loz. sal ammoniac ; these to be well 
 pounded, and put into a glazed earthen pipkin that will hold a 
 quart or three pints ; put upon a moderate fire, which may be 
 increased imtil the drugs boil up two or three times ; then take 
 them from the fire, and set them to cool six or seven hours. 
 Break the pipkin, and take out the stone ; it must be stirred with 
 a piece of wooden lath all the time it is on the fire. Pound a piece 
 of the stone, about the size of a walnut, and melt it in a quart of 
 rain water or pond water ; shake the bottle well when used, pour 
 some into a cup, soak the linen well in it, apply the linen in eight 
 or ten folds ; be careful to keep it constantly wet. 
 
 No. 3. — Add as much alum to whiskey as the latter will dissolve, 
 and with this bathe the parts affected. 
 
 No. 4. — Apply a paste made of fullers' earth mixed with water, 
 until the irritation subsides. Then use daily a weak ointment of 
 biniodide of mercury, one part of ordinary ointment to eight of 
 lard. The saddle must not be put on until the swelling has quite 
 disappeared. 
 
 No. 5. — The best treatment is rest, until nature has effected a 
 cure : if this method is inconvenient, have the stuffing taken out of 
 the saddle over the seat of injury, in such manner as to prevent anj^ 
 material coming in contact with it, and dress it daily with a solu- 
 tion of Goulard's extract and water. 
 
 No. 6. — A lotion made of alum loz. and sulphate of copper |-oz., 
 dissolved in half a gallon of water, is very useful. It should be 
 applied frequently with a sponge. 
 
 A recurrence of the accident may generally be prevented by re- 
 arranging the stuffing, and further by sponging the back, every time 
 the saddle is removed, with a lotion composed of one part of Sir W. 
 Burnett's disinfecting fluid to fifty of water, or half an ounce of 
 alum or sulphate of zinc to a quart of water. 
 
65 
 
 SOUNDXESS, EXAMIXATIOX OF A HORSE FOR. 
 
 If the horse has been brought but a short distance, and slowly, 
 the examination may be proceeded with at once, not otherwise ; 
 but take him to a window or shed, that the eyes may be thoroughly 
 inspected. Take your position opposite the eye, so as to look directly 
 through the pupillary opening. In this way may be seen the 
 muscular movement of the iris, should there be proper and sufficient 
 light. Next take a step towards the shoulder, and look across the 
 cornea. This must be done on both sides — turning up the lid, 
 however, may be resorted to when considered necessary. Next pro- 
 ceed to the mouth, to ascertain the age ; to see if the incisors are 
 broken or worn. Searching from the knee downwards will require 
 much discrimination. In the first place, we must notice if the front 
 of the knee is free from blemish — that the integument moves freely 
 over the point when a blemish does exist; look well for morbid 
 growth of bone upon the large and small metacarpals : then turn 
 round and examine the back part of the limb, from the elbow to the 
 foot, in order to find marks of speedy cut, ruptured tendons, inter- 
 ference from shoeing, enlarged fetlock. &:c. Now raise the foot, and 
 examine it. If any difficulty is found in placing the foot and elbow 
 together, no doubt will exist that some organic change has taken 
 place, either from injury above the knee, the knee itself, the fetlock- 
 joint, or the foot. You cannot attach too much importance to this 
 portion of the examination ; and this having been accomplished, 
 return to the withers. The hand is passed along the course of the 
 spinal column, and the centre of the loins pressed, which will give 
 an idea of the state of parts underneath ; looking under the abdomen 
 in search of hernia. 
 
 Proceed then to the hock- joint, down to the foot, looking first 
 for capped hock and curb, then in search for bursal and other en- 
 largements about the inside and front of this joint. Now take a 
 general survey of the animal, to ascertain his colour, particular 
 marks, height, and mark well if the feet are all right — if he 
 stands in good position, &c. The horse is now slowly trotted upon 
 stones and otherwise, to see if his action is even — that is to say, 
 if he is free from lameness. If this is satisfactory, a saddle is 
 placed upon his back. If he happens to be untrained, then it is 
 necessary to put a cavesson upon him with a long rope attached ; 
 and either get a fast runner or two to run him a distance, or ring 
 him, which is the better plan, if there is room enough, and the 
 gi'ound suitable. The hor<e is made to gallop sufficiently to test his 
 
 P 
 
66 
 
 wind ; and should the examiner be at all doubtful as to his respira- 
 tory organs, it will be necessary to take more time, in order to 
 ascertain the true state of his lungs. Some horses are very ex- 
 citable ; the pulse does not become tranquil for some time after the 
 gallop ; nor does the respiration become quiet. 
 
 SPAVIN. 
 
 Blood and bog spavin are both puffy swellings, appearing on 
 the inner and fore part of the hock ; the former, being of rare 
 occurrence, is due to the enlargement of a vein ; the latter to the 
 distension of a synovial capsule. Bone or true spavin is a growth 
 of bone from bone, or exostosis, on the inside ; whereas a curb in a 
 chronic state is an exostosis on the outer and posterior part of the 
 hock. No treatment removes the exostosis, although it may modify 
 the lameness. 
 
 Spavin is brought on by sprain, which centres in the hock joint, 
 between the two plate bones. All remedial means can only modify 
 the extent of the malady. Firing has been resorted to in many 
 cases with success. Blistering is liked by most horsemen as a 
 remedy for spavin. When a blister is applied the hair over the 
 seat of the disease should be clipped closel}^ off, the denuded part 
 bathed well with hot water, after which it must be wiped dry and 
 rubbed until the friction used has drawn the blood to the surface. 
 The blister, consisting of the biniodide of mercury or cantharides, 
 is now to be rubbed over the skin on the inside of the hock. The 
 application of a blister only once is sufficient in most cases to 
 alleviate spavin ; three or four blisterings, at intervals of a month, 
 being generally required to effect real good. The introduction of a 
 seton over the seat of spavin is good treatment : First. The skin, 
 about an inch and a half above the spavin, should be grasped between 
 the finger and thumb, and cut through with a pair of scissors made 
 for this purpose. Secondly. The seton-needle, with a piece of tape 
 attached to it, should be inserted into the cut surface, and passed 
 over the spavin to about an inch below it ; and at the place where 
 the needle points an incision must be made through the skin ; the 
 tape is now brought over the spavin, and knotted at each end. Let 
 it remain in four or five weeks, and afterwards blister twice at an 
 interval of three weeks with biniodide of mercury ointment; dur- 
 ing this period, administer every fortnight a ball containing two 
 drachms of aloes, and feed on cooling diet. It is the practice of 
 some to make an incision on the inside of the hock below the 
 spavin, and insert into the aperture thus made a plug of tow satu- 
 
67 
 
 rated with turpentine or some liquid caustic. The division of the 
 nerve, situated midway between the leg-bone and point of the 
 hock, of course removes all sensation below the part operated upon, 
 and consequently, as far as external observation goes, cures spavin ; 
 but the vital action still remains intact, and any injury may occur to 
 the foot of this neurotomised leg without the subject of it mani- 
 festing its existence, and yet all the baneful workings of inflamma- 
 tion may be set up. and in a short time the hoof horn will slough 
 off. 
 
 Persistent pressure has been recommended by some authorities 
 for bog spavin. During the time the animal is at work no such 
 treatment can be adopted. If the animal can be turned up for two 
 or three months, apply pressure to the hock, by means of a truss 
 or bandage so constructed as to exactly impinge upon the bog 
 spavin. To all enlargements of this kind persistent pressure for 
 two or three months is the only treatment that ever entirely removes 
 them. 
 
 SPLENIC APOPLEXY. 
 
 The symptoms are a rapid pulse, prominent eyeball, mucous 
 membranes blood-shot, urine and faeces high-coloured and often 
 tinged with blood ; blood flows from the mouth and nos- 
 trils. It is well, on the immediate appearance of symptoms, if the 
 mucous membranes are yellow, to bleed, and to supply the animals 
 so affected with water slightly saturated with sulphuric acid, or 
 better, with sulphate of soda ; this water so treated should be given 
 daily for a few weeks, and a modification should be made in the 
 quantity and quality of the food. The malady is most fatal, gene- 
 rally causing death in a few hours. 
 
 SPLINTS. 
 
 Splints or bony growths appearing on the back and inner side of 
 the fore legs, are common to horses between the age of four and 
 five years. A splint is usually found on the inside of the leg, 
 nearer the knee than the fetlock. Bony tumours appear occasionally 
 on other parts of the cannon, arising from blows or other external 
 injuries, and are also called splints. A splint rarely causes lame- 
 ness, or decreases the value of the animal so affected. 
 
 Use Idr. of iodine in 2oz. of spirits of wine, and apply with a 
 stiff brush. This does not blister, but is a powerful absorbent, and 
 can be replaced as required. 
 
 There are several modes of removing splints, the choice greatly 
 
 I' 2 
 
68 
 
 depending upon their situation. If quite clear of tlie suspensory 
 ligament, rub in the biniodide of mercury ointment every night 
 till the swelling of the skin is considerable, and then desist for a 
 few days, using wet bandages in the interval. If, however, they are 
 near th^i ligament, greater caution is required if the horse is to be 
 worked, as the application of any stimulant is very apt to create 
 inflammation, and consequent lameness. 
 
 When the splint is very bad rub in the above ointment (Idr. to 
 loz. lard) every night till there is considerable discharge ; then stop 
 it and foment with hot water till the swelling caused by it has. 
 entirely abated, when re-apply the ointment, and proceed as before, 
 continuing this plan till the splint has disappeared. 
 
 Again : Hogs lard loz., deuto-ioduret of mercur}^ l^dr. or 2dr. 
 The ointment may be made of different strengths depending upon 
 the nature of the case for which it is applied. The above is the 
 usual strength. The powder should be rubbed down on a plate 
 with half an ounce of mutton fat or hog's lard ; it will then be 
 ready for use. It is not always necessary to cut or shave away the 
 hair from the part to which it has to be applied, unless the hair is 
 very long. It is one of the properties of this unguent to cause a 
 rapid growth of hair. About two drachms of the ointment will 
 suffice for a space of three inches square, and it does not require so 
 much friction in its application as a blister does. When the oint- 
 ment is applied the animal's head should be tied up secure for 
 one whole day, after which he may be turned loose in the field. 
 After an interval of seven days the application can be renewed, and 
 continued until the splint is removed. This ointment is useful 
 in cases of swollen hocks, splints, curbs, enlarged bursas, and broken 
 knees after the wound is healed, spavins, &c. Anyone can apply 
 it without calling in a veterinary surgeon. 
 
 Blistering, repeatedly applied, is recommended by some, and often 
 succeeds in reducing splints, but the operation of periosteotomy is 
 better. An incision through the skin above and below the splint 
 is made, and the skin raised from the splint by means of a seton- 
 needle. An appropriate shaped knife is now passed under the skin, 
 and the splint is cut through, after which a dressed seton is 
 introduced. 
 
 We give the following very ancient method of producing a 
 blister as a curiosity : Cut a sheep's kidney in two (as if it were to 
 be broiled for your breakfast) ; score one half of it with a knife, 
 and sprinkle it well with powdered bluestone (it may be scraped 
 with a knife) ; clip or shave the part, and apply the kidney, binding 
 
69 
 
 it on with a bandage, and leaving it to rot off, wliich it will do 
 in two or three days, leaving a very complete blister. 
 
 Again, remove the shoes from the feet ; apply bandages saturated 
 with evaporating lotions around the limbs, in order to reduce in- 
 flammation. After a week or ten days apply a blistering ointment 
 (biniodide of mercury), or insert a seton over the splint. 
 
 SPRAINS. 
 
 Any tendinous or ligamentous structure in the animal body may 
 be overstrained, but the fibrous tissues connected with the bones and 
 muscles of the extremities are the most frequent seats of the injury. 
 The flexor tendons running down the back of the leg below the 
 knee are commonly so affected. The long ligament extending from 
 below the knee to the upper part of the fetlock (suspensory ligament) 
 is also often sprained during a run, and the tendons and ligaments 
 at the back of the hock suffer in the same way. The enlargement 
 which results from sprain in this region is termed a curb. 
 
 Sprain may also affect the ligaments of the back and loins, 
 causing a weakness in the part, which is particularly apparent when 
 the animal is being mounted, or is compelled to back. Sometimes 
 the horse, when compelled to move over in his stall, lifts the tail 
 with a peculiar quivering motion, and is hence called a ■' shivering." 
 The term "chinked back" is also used to designate this form of 
 injury. 
 
 The general treatment of sprain should be directed to the preven- 
 tion or removal of inflammation in the first instance, and the resto- 
 ration of the lost property of tension in the next place. 
 
 If in the fetlock joint remove the shoe from the affected foot, 
 and place around the joint a light linen bandage, which must be 
 kept continually moistened with a solution composed of a wineglass 
 of tincture of arnica to half a pint of water. The above, with 
 perfect rest, will soon effect a cure. 
 
 If in the shoulder and the strain is severe it will probably take 
 several weeks, or even months, before the effects entirely disappear. 
 Bathe the shoulder and leg night and morning with strong salt and 
 water, at a temperature of 100'^^'. 
 
 Should there be an enlargement resulting from a sprained tendon, 
 and it is hard and tender, firing will be the best treatment after the 
 inflammation is reduced. Repeated blistering with biniodide of 
 mercury ointment may be substituted if firing is objected to ; in 
 any case the animal must be kept at rest. 
 
70 
 
 STAGGERS. 
 
 Staggers in horses is caused b}- pressure on the brain arising from 
 disease of some internal organ, and is thus different to megrims, 
 which is caused by direct action on the brain. Staggers is more 
 easily prevented than cured, and, when fully developed, generally 
 proves fatal. Both plethora and anaemia injuriously affect the 
 digestive organs, and tend to derange the nervous system. Indiges- 
 tion may be produced by any food that is imperfectly masticated, 
 and which is incapable of being digested, such as rye-grass hay. 
 Horses taken up from scant}^ pastures and placed upon high feeding 
 are commonly the subjects of the malady, and for this reason it is 
 always necessary to introduce all creatures from one course of feed- 
 ing to another gradually. If it is clear, however, that over disten- 
 sion of the stomach is the cause of the disease, and the brain only 
 acted upon by sympathy, bleeding will avail nothing, and strong 
 local stimulants or stomachics afford the only chance. Staggers is 
 usually ushered in with shivering fits, associated with extreme 
 dulness, standing with the head in a corner, falling asleep in the 
 act of eating, and for this reason called " sleepy staggers ; " the 
 pulse is greatly accelerated, and perspiration escapes from every 
 pore ; the febrile symptoms increase, the animal commences to be 
 restless, to paw the ground, to rear and plunge, and otherwise give 
 evidence of the convulsive stage. For three or four days the sleepy 
 and convulsive stages alternate ; and if recover}^ is likely, the 
 functions of the body are now better performed, assuring us that 
 the secretions are reassuming a healthy state. With this change is 
 associated a subsidency of the symptoms generally, and of the con- 
 vulsive attacks in particular. 
 
 Treatment, of course, must be regulated by the cause— that is, 
 if the disease has arisen from indigestion, then purgatives, such as 
 aloes (5 drachms) must be administered ; and in all cases very little 
 food must be given, and that only of a very digestible nature, such 
 as bran mashes, boiled oats, &c. Sometimes staggers occur as the 
 result of some urinary complaint, when this specific disease must be 
 treated, and upon its cure the indirect attack of staggers will sub- 
 side. Staggers more commonly is produced by violent constipation 
 in association with general functional derangement. In this case, 
 and when the convulsions are very violent, and if the patient be 
 plethoric (full habit of body), blood-letting may be resorted to 
 with great benefit, to be followed by a strong purgative, b}' the 
 application continually of cold water to the head and nape of the 
 
71 
 
 neck ; if after twelve hours the purgative has not acted, the dose, 
 with calomel added to it, may be repeated ; blankets saturated with 
 warm water can be applied to the abdomen, which will in many- 
 instances accelerate the action of the medicine. But should your 
 patient be lean, then the loss of blood would be productive of 
 great mischief, as the disease has resulted from anaemia (want of 
 blood), which has depressed the nervous system, and in so doing has 
 injuriously affected the great nerve of digestion, and thence the 
 brain ; in this case mild purgatives must be given, repeated if the 
 bowels do not respond to it, and food, as above directed, allowed. 
 
 If recovery be obtained in either case, great weakness will remain, 
 and sometimes even convulsions ; these must be treated with a 
 nutritive diet, and vegetable and mineral tonics ; in administering 
 these care should be taken to do sufficient but not too much. 
 
 One of these drenches will arouse the dormant powers of the 
 stomach, and enable it to resist the decomposition going on within 
 it as well as to expel its contents : Tincture of ginger, compound 
 spirits of ammonia,, tincture of lavender, and sulphuric ether, of 
 each Idr. ; camphor mixed and warm ale, of each 4oz., mix ; or 
 Barbadoes aloes 3dr. tincture of capsicum 2dr., gin 4oz., warm 
 water 4oz., mix. Cold water applied to the head by means of a 
 sponge, well saturated with cold water and kept over the poll by 
 a leather cap. is also very beneficial. 
 
 Vertigo does occasionally arise from derangement of liver, th ere- 
 fore give the horse lOgr. of calomel, Idr. of gentian, and -g-oz. of 
 extract of taraxacum, in a ball twice a week. Meanwhile, attend to 
 his diet and keep him in first-rate condition ; avoid giving food or 
 water for two hours before riding him. 
 
 No attempt to restrain the movements by force should be made 
 other than such as are absolutely needed to prevent the horse doing 
 himself injury by his ineffectual efforts to rise. Some straw should 
 be quickly procured and placed under the body. The head should 
 be slightly elevated, and cold water gently thrown upon it from 
 time to time. The nostrils and mouth also should be sponged with 
 cold water. The extremities and body should be well rubbed with 
 the ordinary horse brush. A free access of air should be allowed, 
 and, consequentl}', all lookers-on kept at a distance. If the horse 
 has fallen in harness, the throat-band of the bridle should be loosed, 
 and especial attention given to either remove the collar or draw it 
 forwards, so that it does not press on the windpipe and chief blood- 
 vessels of the neck, and thus impede the return of blood from the 
 head. As soon as the animal is capable of rising he should be 
 
72 
 
 assisted in so doing, and carefully walked into the nearest and most 
 convenient stable, or rather airy loose box ; and, notwithstanding he 
 may appear to have quickly recovered from the fit, he ought not to 
 be again put to work until he has been seen by a veterinary surgeon. 
 
 STRANGLES. 
 
 This disease generally commences in a cold, and, in fact, is 
 brought on by the same causes which would produce catarrh or 
 influenza in an animal of more advanced age. The horse becomes 
 dull, and looks unhealthy; his coat stands, he loses his appetite, and 
 in some cases there is occasional cough ; after a time a tumour is 
 felt under the jaw, and sometimes more than one is present. There 
 may be also inflammation of the membrane of the nose, with a 
 discharge from the nostril. The tumour which is felt under the 
 jaw is at first knotty and hard; it gradually spreads between the 
 two branches of the lower jaw, and the whole of that part becomes 
 one mass of swelling ; during this process the neighbouring glands 
 will have taken on this inflammation and have become enlarged. In 
 bad cases the whole head becomes one mass of tumefaction. 
 
 SULPHATE OF MAGNESIA. 
 
 The dose is four ounces once a day until a laxative effect is 
 produced. 
 
 SWELLED LEGS. 
 
 The cause of swelled legs varies greatly, and so does the treat- 
 ment. The swelling may be from mere weakness, when a tonic, 
 such as iron, will be of service ; or from defective action of the 
 kidnej^s. when a diuretic will be required ; or from want of con- 
 dition, which time alone will remove. 
 
 Where "swelled legs" arise from the presence of fluid, the system 
 of the animal should be kept up. The presence of fluid ma37- be deter- 
 mined by the appearance of the parts after pressure. If you press 
 the thumb on the swollen skin a depression will be distinctly 
 marked for a short time. When this aedematous swelling shows 
 itself, the only effectual remedy is a general attention to the health 
 of the animal. Iron mixed with mild diuretics should be given, 
 to which may be added a little ginger or allspice. For food give 
 good hay mixed with one quarter straw, and good old oats, varied 
 occasionally with green food, roots, and a little bran. The exercise 
 should be regular, and bandages should be applied after exercise, 
 when the extremities should also be well rubbed. Gradually increase 
 the exercise as the horse gets better. Give occasionally a mild 
 
73 
 
 aperient medicine, and once or twice a week two drachms of pow- 
 dered nitre in a bran mash. If there is no heat or pain in the 
 diseased parts, frequently foment and bandage ; but if it be feverish 
 and painful, give warm fomentations followed by sedative lotions. 
 
 The following is an application recommended by a good authority : 
 Administer a purgative ball and feed nightly on bran mashes and 
 carrots, and apply to the legs, twice or thrice a week, a liniment 
 consisting of equal parts of turpentine and olive oil. 
 
 In mild cases, every morning for three or four hours apply around 
 your horse's legs linen bandages, to be kept continually wet with a 
 solution of nitrate of potash in cold water ; and administer nightly 
 in a feed of corn ^dr. of the potassio-tartrate of antimony. 
 
 In the case of hunters whose legs swell after hunting, imme- 
 diately after work bathe the legs with salt and tepid water, and well 
 hand-rub them dry. On the days that your hunters rest apply 
 around their legs linen bandages well saturated with a solution of 
 arnica and water . a wine-glass of the former to half-a-pint of the 
 latter. 
 
 Some authorities, after the hand-rubbing, leave the legs bandaged 
 with flannel for the night. Should the lower extremities be found 
 indurated in the morning, give half an hour's exercise in hand, sub- 
 sequently applying linen bandages through the day saturated with 
 the following : Water one quart, sulphate of zinc 4dr., acetate of 
 lead 4di-. ; shake the lotion well before using it. After horses have 
 been lying at gi-ass. their legs swell after exercise. In that case give 
 a mash, with loz. of nitre in it. twice a week. Take care and keep 
 the bowels from becoming confined, and if at all that way inclined 
 give a gentle dose of physic occasionally. Take plenty of time before 
 putting him to work ; but always let him have two or three hours' 
 walkmg exercise daily. A flannel bandage should be put on after 
 he comes in, and kept on till " bedding up time." 
 
 The following has been recommended : Aloes, 5dr. ; bi-carbonate 
 of potassae, 2dr. ; extract of hyocyannes, Idr. ; tartar emetic, -Jdr. ; 
 soap enough to form a ball. Then apply the following lotion three 
 times a day : Acetate of lead, l^oz. ; tincture of arnica, 2oz. ; liquor 
 of acetate of ammonia, 2oz. ; water, one quart ; diluted sulphuric 
 acid, loz. On the third day after the physic, give — Iodide of 
 potass, odr. ; starch powder, 3dr. ; camphor in powder, 3di\ : bi-car- 
 bonate of potass. Gdr. ; nitrate of potass, loz, ; powdered gentian, 3di\ 
 IVIix and divide into six powders, one twice a day in a pint of water, 
 at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Diet : equal parts of bran and oats scalded, 
 chilled water, good grooming for three days. 
 
74 
 
 It sometimes happens that horses receive injuries to the legs 
 during travelling, and the swelling, the result of such injury, is very 
 long before it is reduced. Some practitioners, in an obstinate case, 
 dress it with the biniodide of mercury ointment, Idr. to loz. of lard. 
 The ointment should be rubbed in every night till it produces a dis- 
 charge ; then foment with hot water instead, until the swelling of 
 the skin disappears. Repeat the process till absorption has taken 
 place. 
 
 Hunters frequentl}' injure themselves when taking a fence or gate, 
 the result being lameness and a swollen limb. When this is ob- 
 served, administer a purgative, odrs. aloes, and keep around the 
 swelling a light linen bandage, to be kept continually moist with a 
 solution containing a wine-glass of tincture of arnica to half a pint 
 of water. Where the knee itself is affected, perhaps the best plan 
 is daily friction with iodide of potassium ointment. If the knee is 
 stained at all clean with milk. However, for very recent injuries 
 there is nothing like a cold water bandage. 
 
 Bandaging and hand-rubbing are the only local remedies for 
 swelling of the hind legs ; but this frequently arises either from 
 constitutional w^eakness or from the kidneys not acting properly. 
 If the former is the cause, give one drachm of sulphate of iron 
 three times a week ; if the latter, five or six drachms of nitrate of 
 potass. 
 
 TAR WATER, TO MAKE. 
 
 Tar water may be made by filling a recently emptied tar barrel 
 with water, or a small cask may be smeared inside with tar. The 
 water will be fit for use in a few days. 
 
 It must be given as a drench ; dose one pint. It is said to be 
 beneficial in chronic cough. 
 
 TENDER SHOULDER. 
 
 Bathe the affected part with a solution composed of a wine-glass 
 of tincture of arnica to half a pint of water, and drive your horse in 
 a flag-collar. 
 
 Some horses' shoulders are naturally ver}' tender. Oil the inside 
 of the collar before putting it on, and after work bathe the shoulders 
 with water containing two drachms of tincture of arnica to the pint. 
 
 THICK WIND. 
 
 Everything depends on the food. Mix 2 bushels of oats, 1 ditto of 
 crushed beans, 1 ditto of bran ; give four feeds a day, mixed with a 
 good quantity of wheat straw chaff, the whole slightly wetted ; give 
 
75 
 
 no ha}', but at night let him have clean wheat straw. For a hunter 
 you should not give the bran, except after hunting. If extra or 
 quick work is wanted increase the beans. Give no hay, but green- 
 meat or carrots in moderation, some say potatoes or swede turnips. 
 
 Some authorities advise to turn the animal out to grass for the 
 summer ; if this is objected to, give succulent food, such as caiTots, 
 grass, very little hay, and no corn. The administration of two 
 grains of arsenic daily would be attended with benefit. Exercise 
 three hours daily. 
 
 If the horse's wind improves by work you cannot do better than 
 give him plenty of exercise, with nutritious food, avoiding grass or 
 chaff in any quantity. Charcoal may be given in the food ; half an 
 ounce of the powder every day will be sufficient. Tar water is 
 highly spoken of by many who have used it. The dose will be half 
 a pint to a pint once or twice a day. 
 
 Arsenious acid in two-grain doses given daily for several weeks is 
 also good. 
 
 It has been advised to feed on mangold wurzel. Boil or steam 
 the mangolds (steaming is the best), and when well cooked mash 
 them into small lumps ; mix a little bran and a handful of hay- 
 chaff in each feed at the time of feeding. A moderate-sized horse 
 will require about 561b. of this mixture in twenty-four hours. 
 It will be better to give it warm, and four times a day. A horse 
 fed on this food requires very little hay, and will not drink much 
 water. If you ride or drive fast, it will be better to give three 
 feeds of oats, with a handful of beans in each feed every day, and 
 at night, after work is done, a feed of mangolds, about 141b., mixed 
 with bran and chaff. 
 
 As a iTile the food should be given in as small a compass as pos- 
 sible, and the coat should be kept short. 
 
 THOEOUGH-PIN. 
 
 A thorough-pin may be defined to be wind-gall running from side 
 to side, occupying the hollow interval situated at the upper and back 
 part of the hock. It is an unnatural increase of the synovia in the 
 joint bags of the hocks caused by work. 
 
 Hard up-hill work, when excessive exercise is forced upon the 
 hock- joint, may be reckoned among the chief exciting causes of 
 this disorder. 
 
 Persistent pressure must be applied to the part by means of a 
 bandage, with two pads so arranged as to impinge directly upon the 
 enlargement. 
 
76 
 
 THRUSH. 
 
 Tlirusli is of two kinds', complete and incomplete ; and is caused 
 by inflammation of the foot, especially of those parts near the 
 sensible frog, which secretes pus instead of horn, and which matter 
 escapes at the cleft of this horny frog. Thrush is often caused by 
 horses standing on foul litter. 
 
 Bad shoeing often produces thrush, because it produces contrac- 
 tion of the foot. The disease is both the cause and the effect of 
 contraction. In some instances the appearance of the foot is scarcely 
 altered, and the malady itself is only recognised after careful exami- 
 nation by the fetid discharge. 
 
 The symptoms of incomplete thrush is a thin discharge which 
 comes from the cleft of the frog, and is caused by severe inflammation 
 of the adjacent parts. If this is allowed to go on the frog will in time 
 scale away, and when renewed is only so partially and in a contracted 
 form, leaving numerous fissures, which discharge purulent matter, 
 offensive to the smell. If this be neglected canker may supervene. 
 In treating the first symptoms of disease be careful not to stop the 
 discharge too rapidly. Astringent lotions must be applied with great 
 caution. Often, if a running thrush be stopped, canker results. 
 From feet affected with thrush the shoes should be immediately 
 removed, the ragged horn cut away, and the animals must be placed 
 on a soft pasture where natural pressure and a cooling diet can be 
 obtained. 
 
 The following lotions have been recommended to be applied : — 
 
 Remove the shoes from the horse's feet, and wash them daily 
 with soft soap and warm water ; also, three times a daj^ bathe the 
 affected feet with a cold solution of salt and water. Keep the 
 bowels gently open, and exercise the animal for two hours daily — on 
 the turf, if possible. Where the horse seems weak give half a 
 drachm of iodide of iron twice weekly. It has been recom- 
 mended to cut away the ragged horn, and lay bare the surface from 
 which the discharge comes. Then apply a little of the follow- 
 ing on tow, which is to be inserted in the cleft and kept there by 
 means of a short piece of stick stretched across the shoe : chloride of 
 zinc ogr., tincture of sesquichloride of iron -^oz., water -^oz. 
 
 Some practitioners wash the frog and foot twice daily with a 
 lotion consisting of nitre and water — an ounce of the former to 
 half a pint of the latter ; and this, together with half an ounce of 
 nitre, given daily in a pint of water, with two drachms of aloes 
 added to this solution weekly. Only a feed and a-half of oats and 
 a bran mash should be allowed daily. 
 
77 
 
 A good autliority recommends tlie following practice : — '• After 
 cutting away the ragged horn quite smooth,"" he says, "into the cleft 
 of the frog may then be drawn a little tow previously dipped in a 
 mixture of tar and salt, or carbolic acid and glycerine, in the pro- 
 portion of one part of the acid to eight of glycerine, and these 
 dressings should be repeated two or three times a week, and cer- 
 tainly after every journey in wet weather. When the disease has 
 existed for some time, and implicates the whole of the frog, which 
 becomes ragged and literally rotten, any fungoid masses which may 
 appear must be touched freely with caustic. Nitric acid will be 
 very useful for the purpose, and a dressing of tar, mixed with an 
 eighth part of sulphate of copper, should be afterwards spread over 
 the part, the foot properly stopped, and a leather sole used as long 
 as the parts require such a protection." 
 
 TONIC BALL. 
 
 Take sulphate of iron, 4oz. ; ginger, 2oz. ; common mass, lOoz. ; 
 beat together and form into balls ; each to contain about eight 
 drachms of the above compound. Or the following for colts : Give 
 twice daily, in some corn, a powder consisting of one drachm of sul- 
 phate of iron and the same quantity of powdered gentian. 
 
 TUMOUR. 
 
 Get a piece of sheet lead, the same size as the tumour (taking 
 care to have the' edges perfectly smooth), and bind it on the part 
 with a linen bandage well saturated with cold water, and renewed as 
 it becomes dry. 
 
 WARBLE. 
 
 Pass a seton through the warble and foment daily with hot 
 water. 
 
 WARTS. 
 
 Make an ointment composed of one part of arsenious acid in fine 
 powder with four parts of lard, to be applied over and just around 
 the base of each excrescence. 
 
 Pick off the hard, rough surface till the wart bleeds, then rub in 
 ' some yellow orpiment, or, if in a part where the loss of a little extra 
 skin is of no importance, a little corrosive sublimate in powder. 
 Either will destroy the wart, but the latter is the most certainly 
 effective in one apphcation, though its effect are apt to extend 
 beyond the wart. 
 
 The yellow orpiment should be made into a thick paste with 
 
78 
 
 water. If any part of tlie wart remains, renew the application, 
 taking care to keep it off the ulcerated surface left by the sloughing 
 out of the wart, 
 
 WINDGALLS. 
 
 No. 1. — Apply persistent pressure for six or seven weeks, by means 
 of two pads attached to the inside of a strap, and so arranged as to 
 impinge directly on each enlargement. 
 
 No. 2. — Muriate of ammonia, loz.; muriatic acid, -^oz. ; water, 
 1 quart. Mix in warm water (boiling is better), and let it stand 
 until cold. Keep your horse's legs bandaged, and well wet with the 
 lotion. If taken in time this will effect a cure ; if neglected, the 
 only application likely to be of service is blistering, and this seldom 
 effects a cure unless assisted by rest. Windgalls are invariably the 
 consequence of hard work. 
 
 No. 3. — Apply bandages dipped in a saturated solution of alum with 
 2oz. of sal ammoniac added to each gallon. This should be kept in a 
 cold place, or if it is dissolved as wanted it will be better. The 
 pressure and cold together produce considerable absorption, but 
 they do not eradicate the enlargement, which returns on discontinu- 
 ing the remedy. 
 
 No. 4. — Upon a moistened piece of rag place a piece of cork, big 
 enough to cover the windgall, or of such thickness as may be neces- 
 sar}'-. Above the cork lace on a vulcanised india-rubber bandage. 
 Constant and equal pressure will by these means be kept up. 
 
 WORMS. 
 
 All hard, indigestible food should be carefully avoided ; beans 
 should be withheld, but oats, with a little bran and chaff, carrots, or 
 green food, with occasional bran and linseed mashes may be given. 
 Exercise is important, and should be regulated according to the 
 strength of the animal ; the surface of the skin should be regularly 
 stimulated by friction, and avoid exposure to cold and wet. 
 
 No, 1. — Administer daily for three weeks to each horse a ball 
 containing ^dr. of the iodide of iron. 
 
 No. 2. — Give "l^dr. of calomel in a small mash at night, and the 
 next morning a common aloetic ball. 
 
 No, 3. — Sprinkle over a feed of corn nightly for a month ^oz. of 
 liquor arsenicalis. 
 
 No. 4. — For a horse give 2dr. of tartar emetic for three or four 
 mornings, followed by a dose of physic. This is an effectual 
 vermifuge. 
 
 No. 5. — Some prefer 8dr. of sulphur. 
 
79 
 
 No. 6. — Let the animal fast for fifteen liours at least ; give liim 
 from a half to three-quarters of a gallon of potatoes which have 
 become green by exposure to the atmosphere (no other food for two 
 hours after). Tape and other worms will be voided. 
 
 No. 7. — The nuts (powdered) of the areca catechu are good as a 
 vermifuge. Give a couple of the nuts (about Joz.) in powder twice 
 or thrice a week in the animal's mash, for two or three weeks, after 
 which a dose of physic (4 dr. or 5 dr. of aloes) will have the desired 
 effect. If the areca nut is refused it may be powdered and made 
 into a couple of boluses with linseed-meal and boiling water, when 
 it may easily be given. 
 
 No. 8. — Try hot grains after being taken from the mash-tub. It 
 often answers. 
 
 No. 9. — One pint of cold-drawn linseed oil will be found a cure ; 
 but perfect rest must be given while it remains in the stomach. 
 The worms will surfeit themselves with the oil, and so die, when 
 they will be discharged in the course of nature. 
 
 No. 10. — Put into the food of the horses some rye, more and more 
 till the horses void dead worms. This should be continued for some 
 time, so that the spawn has time to vivify. Or, give the horses the 
 young shoots of the silver fir, as many as they like to eat. Most 
 horses like them. If the silver a re not to had, try any other fir. 
 The oftener the better. 
 
 No. 11. Grive daily in a bran mash a drachm of potassio-tartrate of 
 antimony, and on every sixth day administer a ball of aloes (odr.) To 
 prevent worms, allow your animals to drmk water with a little salt 
 in it, three or four times a week. 
 
 No. 12. — Common linseed oil, one pint, mixed with^oz. of spirits 
 of turpentine. 
 
 No. 13. — Inject 1 pint linseed oil mixed with 3 dr. spirits of tur- 
 pentine. 
 
 No. 14. — Feed him plentifully, and administer daily for three 
 weeks a ball containing a drachm of the iodide of iron, after which 
 give a purgative (odr. of aloes). 
 
 No. 15. — Areca nut will expel them ; but when they infest the 
 rectum, an injection composed of two quarts of warm water, with 
 loz. of soft soap and 2oz. of oil of turpentine, is the best remedy, 
 and may be employed in conjunction with the areca nut powder. 
 
 No. 16. — When emaciation is one of the symptoms of bad con- 
 dition, and parasites are known to be present, doses of calomel and 
 tartarised antimony may be given for several successive mornings, 
 and be followed by a mild aloetic purge. A half drachm each of 
 
80 
 
 calomel and antimony given in a ball eacli morning for three or four 
 doses. If the horse is too weak to bear the mercurial and purgative 
 treatment, sulphate of iron, with powdered quassia, will form a good 
 worm medicine. Half a drachm of the sulphate of iron, and half 
 an ounce of quassia made into a ball may be given every day, and 
 continued two or three weeks. 
 
 No. 17. — Try common salt, of which a tablespoonful may be mixed 
 with the food daily, or a piece of rock salt may be kept in the 
 manger. 
 
 FEEDING. 
 
 BRAN. 
 
 Dry bran mixed well with other food is not injurious, ex- 
 citing peristaltic action. But when given alone and dry, the animal 
 generally swallows it rapidly, and consequently it is imperfectly mas- 
 ticated and insufficiently insalivated. 
 
 CARROTS. 
 
 For slow work they form an excellent food given sliced and 
 with bran. Without bran or corn they do not seem to agree 
 nearly so well for working horses. Carrots produce fat more than 
 muscle, so that they do not supply the place of oats to any great 
 extent where hard work is required. Give 51b. or 61b. of carrots 
 twice a day. 
 
 COLT, FEEDING OF. 
 
 The adult horse does not require so much of the flesh-making 
 principle as the young and growing animal, but he seems to 
 require a greater variety. The adult merely requires enough 
 to replace the waste — the wear and tear of his system. With 
 the young and growing animal the case is different. We re- 
 quire bone, muscle, and nerve. Oats, corn, and pollard furnish the 
 same. The colt obtains from its mother's milk all the elements of 
 its own organization in a concentrated form ; therefore, when weaned, 
 the colt must be furnished with the same equivalents in the form of 
 fodder, ground oats, wheat bran, and meal. In addition to the food 
 required for the colt's growth, we must also furnish enough to supply 
 the waste incurred by expenditure of muscular power. They are 
 not, however, to have a large quantity at a time, but little and often. 
 
 FATTENING HORSES. 
 
 If you wish to make a horse up for sale, scald a pound of linseed 
 and give it to him mixed with a few sliced carrots, and his feed of 
 corn every night. 
 
81 
 
 FOOD REQUIRED, AMOUNT OF. 
 
 In this particular horses vary, some requiring more than others. 
 For ordinary carriage horses give from two to three quarterns of oats 
 (a quartern being a quarter of a peck) every day, or from a bushel 
 and a half to two bushels a week. If the work be very hard increase 
 the quantity. As to hay, it is usual to give two-thirds of the hay at 
 night and one-third in the morning, after the horse is exercised and 
 dressed (251bs. to 301bs. being a fair amount). Some say that 
 horses should have water always before them excepting when they 
 come in hot from a journey. If only at intervals it should be 
 given four times a day. Kiln-dried oats are liable to produce 
 diabetes and thick wind. 
 
 GENERAL FEEDING. 
 
 Do not give a horse unchilled pump-water. The temperature 
 should be that of the stables. A hunter should have about lOlbs. 
 of hay per diem. A quarter of oats is eight bushels, each weighing 
 about, on the average, 4-Olbs. A quartern is a quarter of a peck. 
 Some people contract with a dealer to supply them regularly once a 
 month. The following would be fair allowance for a single horse : 
 Iqr. oats, 4 bushels chaff, ocwt. to 3^cwt. hay, and 8 trusses straw. 
 Some people give their horses a mixture of hay, straw, oats and 
 Indian corn in equal proportions. About 201bs. per diem of this 
 mixture ought to suffice. For a pony, unless worked very hard, 
 give Ibush. oats, and |cwt. hay per week. 
 
 Oats, with a single handful of bran to each feed, and hay, is the 
 food on which horses do best ; though for hunters and other horses 
 in full work, a handful of beans, as well as bran, may be given with 
 each feed. 
 
 Hunters are fed, in some well-managed establishments, five times a 
 day ; four feeds are enough. Early in the morning, a little before 
 noon, five in the afternoon, and at doing-up time in the evening — say 
 eight o'clock — are sufficiently frequent. The other period of feeding 
 commonly adopted is a second feed in the morning after the horses 
 go into the stable from exercise. 
 
 On hunting days the horses going out should have their morning 
 feed divided, viz., by giving little more than half an ordinary por- 
 tion on first going to stable, and a small feed about an hour and 
 half before the horse leaves the stable. In the evening, after the 
 day's work is over, two light feeds may be given — one as soon after 
 returning to the stable as suffices to make the horse comfortably 
 clean and dry ; the second small feed two hours later at night. 
 
 a 
 
82 
 
 One rule to be observed in the feeding of hunters and all other 
 horses is, that the portions of corn given should be nicely divided, 
 given at regular periods, with the important exception, equally 
 necessary to be kept in mind, that no horse used for fast work 
 should be allowed to have food within an hour of his going out of 
 the stable, and that even though, as in the case of hunters, he may 
 have some distance to go to covert. 
 
 Another rule, almost as important is, that the tired horse should 
 not be overloaded with food, either on the evening after hunting, 
 nor yet on the following day, but should have his feeds at regular 
 intervals, though in somewhat diminished portions, until he craves 
 for it and begins to feel fresh. Hunters should be watered three 
 times a day — in the morning, before going out to have their walking 
 exercise ; at noon before feeding ; and on going to stable in the 
 evening ; immediately after which they should be dressed over, fed, 
 and have their hay given them for the night. An}?- of the horses 
 going out to exercise which may be intended to have a canter or a 
 steady gallpp should not be watered until they return ; the practice 
 followed in training stables applies in that case. 
 
 INDIAN CORN. 
 
 It answers well mixed with beans, and should be given bruised in 
 the state known as '"hominy." Or it may be mixed half-and-half 
 with oats. Indian corn is all very well for slow work, but does not 
 answer for hunters. Instead of bruising, some people soak the grain 
 well before giving it to the horses, 
 
 MEDICATED PROVENDER. 
 
 Bruised oats, 41b. ; bruised bay-berries, 2oz. ; common salt, loz. 
 mix well. Add a few carrots, thinly sliced. Nourishing and stimu- 
 lant. 
 
 VETCHES OR TARES. 
 
 For harness horses not likely to be over-driven vetches may be 
 given, as a change, with good effect. They make them sw^eat very 
 freely, and consequently the horses should be quietly used while 
 eating them. 
 
 HARNESS, ETC. 
 
 CLEANING BROWN HARNESS. 
 
 Wash with yellow soap, and dress with a very small quantity of 
 neatsfoot oil. 
 
83 
 
 CLEANING HARNESS MOUNTINGS. 
 
 Brass liarness is cleaned with rotten-stone and a feather, or, if 
 very dii-ty, with the addition of a very little oil of vitriol. Plated 
 harness may be kept in order with whitening ; a piece of calico 
 being dipped in some water in which whitening has been mixed up, 
 and then being dried, it prevents the powder getting into the leather. 
 Plate-powder answers better, but it is generally considered too ex- 
 pensive. For those parts which are removable or which are embossed 
 a brush must be used. 
 
 CLEANING SADDLES. &C. 
 
 Wash the saddle with the whites of three eggs evaporated till 
 the substance left resembles the common gum, dissolved in a pint 
 of gin, and put into a common wine-bottle, and filled up with water. 
 
 HARDENED LEATHER. 
 
 Wash well with soap and water, and dress well with good neats- 
 foot oil. 
 
 HARNESS BLACKING. 
 
 No. 1. — One pint of spirit of turpentine, ^oz. of .Japan ink. 2oz. 
 of beeswax, 2oz. of white wax, loz. of gum benjamin, loz. of indigo 
 blue. 2oz. of drop black. Melt the wax and gum benjamin, and 
 then add the other ingredients, having warmed the ink. This 
 blacking will never harden, but it is always in a liquid state, and 
 will be found to keep the harness soft and pliable. Apply with a 
 soft brush, and polish with another, and gently rub with a soft- 
 cloth. 
 
 No. 2. — Boiled linseed oil, 1 pint ; beeswax, 2oz, : Burgundy pitch, 
 loz. ; spirits of turpenti-ne, 2oz. 
 
 No. 3. — Three ounces beeswax ; \\h. ivory black ; 1 pint neat's- 
 foot oil; 2oz. Castile soap; 2oz. lard"; 2 table-spoonfuls of aloes. 
 
 No. 4. — One pound and a half of tallow ; 2 Jib. lard ; 2 pints 
 neatsfoot oil ; 3oz. beeswax ; mix ; then add l-|-oz. of india-rubber 
 dissolved in three quarters of a pint of spirits of turpentine. The 
 leather must be well washed, and, when quite dry, the mixture well 
 rubbed in before a hot fire. 
 
 No. 5. — Take 2oz. of beeswax, and cut as thin as possible ; cover 
 it with turpentine, and let it remain until dissolved; add loz. of 
 ivory black, and a tablespoonful of sweet oil. Mix well together. 
 If it gets too stiff, add a little more turpentine. 
 
 No. 6. — One pint of spirits of turpentine, loz. Prussian blue. ^Ib. of 
 beeswax, one tablespoonful of lamp black. Slice the wax very thin, put 
 
 g2 
 
84 
 
 it in a tin vessel, pour on it the turpentine, cover very closely, leave 
 for twenty-four hours, tlien stir it up, grind the other articles and 
 mix them in it thoroughly. — N.B. To be kept covered or it becomes 
 hard. 
 
 No. 7. — Spirits of turpentine one pint, add beeswax until as thick 
 as thick cream ; place near the fire ; take Prussian blue one-third 
 part, best ivory black two-third part, mix and rub up with beeswax 
 until a drop placed on the nail cannot be seen through, then add a 
 thick solution of shellac in spirits of wine, with 2oz., of gum ben- 
 zoin to the pint, and of soft soap loz., and melt together in a hot- 
 water bath ; lay on with a black-lead brush (very hard) and polish 
 with a soft brush ; use once per month. It will polish at once after 
 washing. 
 
 No. 8. — Half a pound of beeswax, three quarterns of turpentine, 
 ^Ib. of drop black, ^Ib. of indigo, and one glass of the oil of thyme. 
 When prepared, keep it in a tin canister, covered. Apply it in the 
 usual way with a brush rather stiff, first washing the harness well of 
 all other ingredients. 
 
 No. 9. — Two ounces of drop black, 2oz. of spirits of wine, 
 ■^oz. indigo, -Joz. india-rubber, 3oz. white wax, three pennyworth oil 
 of thyme. Dissolve the wax and india-rubber together over a slow 
 fire until well mixed ; then mix all together. Of course you can 
 make any quantity after these proportions. 
 
 No. 10. — Take of beeswax -|lb., spirits of turpentine -J pint, ivory 
 black -^Ib., Prussian blue loz., spermaceti loz. ; mix the ingredients, 
 and boil gentl}'' for three-quarters of an hour. Then allow the 
 composition to cool, and it is fit for use in the ordinary way. 
 
 No. 11. — Into a pipkin put 2oz. of black resin or Burgundy pitch, 
 and place it on a gentle fire ; when melted, add 3oz. of beeswax, 
 when dissolved, take it off the fire, and add ^oz. of fine lamp-black 
 and "l-dr. of Prussian blue ; stir them so as to be perfectly mixed, 
 then add sufficient spirits of turpentine to form a thin paste, and 
 let it cool. Apply it with a linen rag, brush it over with a soft 
 polishing brush, and then rub it over with the handle of an old 
 tooth-brush or piece of smooth ivory. 
 
 No. 12. — Take beeswax (shred fine) 8oz., and turpentine sufficient 
 to cover it ; let them stand till the wax is dissolved (three or four 
 days) ; ivory black 4oz., olive oil (I use neatsfoot oil) 2oz., Prussian 
 blue 2oz. Eub the ivory black and Prussian blue well together to a 
 fine powder in a mortar, then add the oil, and gradually the other 
 ingredients, and thoroughly mix them. If it gets hard by keep, 
 soften with turpentine. 
 
85 
 
 No. 13. — Half a pint of spirits of tui-pentine, ^Ib. of soft soap, 
 ^Ib. of beeswax. 2oz, of gold size, 2oz. of drop black, 4oz. of Japan, 
 ink, -^oz. of indigo blue, ^oz. of Prussian blue. Melt the wax 
 and soap, and, when melted, add the liquids, taking care the tur- 
 pentine does not take fire — having previously reduced the black and 
 blues to a fine powder, mix all together, and let the mixtui'e simmer 
 for twenty minutes. Have some clean blacking bottles ready, and 
 pour the mixture into them ; before using, let the bottle stand a 
 short time in hot water, it will then become a liquid somewhat 
 thicker than ink. Have the harness free from any other composi- 
 tion ; apply the mixture to the harness with a sponge very thin ; 
 and, when dry. polish with a soft brush. 
 
 No. 14. — Take lib. of beeswax, 6oz. soft soap. ^Ib. ivory black, 
 and loz. Prussian blue ; grind up with 2oz. of linseed oil, adding 
 half a pint of oil of turpentine. 
 
 MOTHS IN CLOTHS. 
 
 Dust the cloths with pepper or sprinkle a Httle paraffin or other 
 oil over them occasionally. Apply spirit of turpentine, and after- 
 wards tie them up closely. The turpentine should be put on every 
 five or six weeks. 
 
 Place them, when not in use, in a cedar box. 
 
 OILING. 
 
 Oils should not be applied to dry leather, as they would invariably 
 injure it. If you wish to oil a harness, wet it over night, cover it 
 with a blanket, and in the morning it will be dry and supple ; then 
 apply neatsfoot oil in small quantities, and with so much elbow- 
 grease as will insure its disseminating itself throughout the leather. 
 A soft, pliant harness is easy to handle, and lasts longer than a 
 neglected one. Never use vegetable oils on leather, and among 
 animal oils neatsfoot is the best. 
 
 PICKLE FOR BITS, SzC. 
 
 Take half a pail of water from the pump, throw your bits and 
 stiri'up-irons into the water as soon after they are used as possible, 
 and before dressing the horses. If left until the next day, they 
 will be scarcely dirtier than when put into use the preceding one. 
 
 PRESEBVING SADDLES, &C. 
 
 Neatsfoot oil is the best preservative for saddles and bridles. 
 After they have been sponged with lukewarm water, and all the 
 
86 
 
 dust or mould removed, rub them dry. The oil should then be 
 applied with a sponge not too much saturated. It may be well to 
 have a curtain made to draw before the bridles when not wanted ; 
 this will keep off the dust, and prevent damp from affecting them 
 so much. 
 
 All the saddle linings and clothing should be well beaten with a 
 stick once a week, so as to deter the moth from laying its eggs, and 
 also to get rid of the maggots after they are hatched. Dressing 
 with spirit of turpentine is partially effectual, but the most suc- 
 cessful plan is to keep all the saddlery which is not in use pinned 
 up in calico in such a Avay as mechanicall}^ to prevent the moths 
 from depositing their eggs. 
 
 Deer's suet is an admirable preservative. When quite dry rub 
 them thoroughly with the suet, then pack them in an air-tight case. 
 Deer's suet may be obtained from any park-keeper where deer are 
 kept at from eightpence to a shilling a pound. In putting on the 
 suet warm it slightly, and rub in a small quantity with a piece of 
 flannel. 
 
 EEARINa HORSE. 
 
 There is a bit formed thus, which may be applied to a 
 ^^^^^ ^0m^ common bridle head-piece by the two side 
 
 r^ v/ \^ rings, and a strap such as is used to a 
 I I noseband martingal fitted with a spring 
 
 hook to the lower ring. No horse can rear 
 with this in his mouth, as the reverse part 
 catches on the tongue and lower jaw. A 
 common smith may make the bit — say 
 five inches in circumference, deep enough to hang free outside his 
 lower jaw. He may have this in his mouth in addition to the 
 usual bridle. 
 
 SPOTS IN SADDLES. 
 
 Spots caused by damp in saddles cannot be at once removed, but 
 by well rubbing the saddle with deer's suet, once or twice a week, 
 the}^ gradually disappear. 
 
 STAINING SADDLES. 
 
 No. 1. — Wash with a solution of soft soap, and when perfectly 
 dry (atmospherically) rub in lightly horse's blood. By these means 
 an uniform brown colour is produced, which is brought to a high 
 varnish by the blood. Using the blood is most efficacious after a 
 saddle and bridle have been exposed to rain. 
 
 No. 2. — Wash well with brown or yellow (not black) soap, not 
 
 S/ ^ 
 
 TJ 
 
87 
 
 wetting tlie • leather too much, and, when perfectly dry, polish it 
 with a moderately hard brush, using beeswax as a cosmetic. The 
 beeswax is applied by brushing it well, and the particles adhering to 
 the points of the brush impart, by due friction, a fine polish to the 
 leather. After a few applications, an artificial coat is given to the 
 surface, which, except in wet weather, or after much hardship, dis- 
 penses with the necessity for the constant use of soap and water, a 
 few touches of the brush and beeswax removing the effects of a 
 summer-day's ride. Should the leather be sticky, blame not the 
 beeswax, but rather the too copious use of it. 
 
 No. 3. — Apply the albumen or white of an egg to the saddle 
 and give it plenty of elbow-grease with the aid of a piece of flannel. 
 The same application to a new saddle, two or three times repeated, 
 will produce that rich dark-brown so much desired. 
 
 No. 4. — Dissolve in a pint of soft water 2oz. of carbonate of 
 potass (salts of tartar) and apply the solution with a clean sponge. 
 
 No. 5. — Try spirit of lavender, applied with a sponge. As the 
 spirit, as sold, often varies in strength, it will be as well to try it 
 first, and dilute with water until it communicates the required tint. 
 
 No. 6. — Sponge the leather with the coarsest linseed-oil until it 
 is well saturated, taking care to apply it equally to all parts, so as 
 to keep the whole of the same hue. Expose in the open air during 
 the day, and place under cover, in a thorough draught, at night. 
 When it is quite diy (which should be in three or four days), clean 
 with soft soap in the usual way. The reins of a double bridle, a 
 121b. saddle, and the stirrup-leathers, ought to absorb about 2oz. 
 of oil. 
 
 No. 7. — First wash the saddle with warm milk ; let it dry ; then 
 rub on very thin, with a piece of linen rag, two parts goose or turkey 
 fat to one part beeswax (which must be well boiled together), then 
 polish with wash-leather, which will require two pieces, a first and 
 second. 
 
 No. 8. — Make a solution of oxalic acid (not too strong), and pass 
 it lightly with a sponge over the saddle, and it will readily turn to 
 a brown colour ; and if the first application does not make it dark 
 enough, repeat it ad libitum till the desired colour is obtained. 
 Afterwards wash the saddle with soft soap and warm water, and 
 finish off with milk 
 
 No. 9. — First air the saddle, then wash it two or three times with 
 warm milk, and rub with wash-leather till dry. Then rub in 
 Newton's saddle paste, and rub again with wash-leather till a 
 polish is obtained. 
 
88 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 ACTION OF A HORSE, TO IMPROVE. 
 
 No. 1. — Lunge a "daisy-cutter" amongst mole-hills; lie will 
 pick up his feet rather than tumble on his nose. 
 
 No. 2. — Ride him in a straw yard, with the straw a good depth. 
 
 j^o, 3. — Trot him for a short time daily over heavy ploughed land. 
 
 No. 4. — Procure two hollow belts of leather, each having a strap 
 at one end and buckle at the other (much the same in shape as the 
 rings used to prevent cutting); these are to be half filled with shot, 
 and buckled on the fore-legs, between the hoof and pastern, every time 
 the horse is taken out. It is said that the rattling makes the horse 
 step up, though in our opinion he v/ould soon become accustomed 
 to it. 
 
 AGE OF A HORSE, TO KXOW. 
 
 The colt is born with twelve grinders. When four front teeth 
 have made their appearance, the colt is twelve days old ; when the 
 next four come forth it is four weeks old. When the corner teeth 
 appear the colt is eight months, and when the latter have attained 
 the height of the front teeth it is one year old. In the two-year-old 
 the kernel (the dark substance in the middle of the tooth's crown) 
 is out of all the front teeth. In the third year the middle front 
 teeth are being shifted ; and when three years old, these are 
 changed for the horse teeth. The next four teeth are shifted in the 
 fourth year, and the corner teeth in the fifth. At six years old the 
 kernel is worn out of the lower middle front teeth, and the bridle 
 teeth have now attained their full growth. At seven years a hook 
 has been formed on the corner teeth of the upper jaw, the kernel 
 of the teeth next to the middle fronts is worn out, and the bridle 
 teeth begin to wear off. At eight years old the kernel is worn out 
 of all the lower front teeth, and begins to decrease in the middle 
 upper fronts. At nine years, the kernel has wholly disappeared from 
 the upper middle front teeth, the hook in the corner teeth has 
 increased in size, and the middle teeth lose their points. In the 
 tenth year the kernel is worn out of those next to the middle fronts 
 of the upper jaw ; and in the eleventh year the kernel has entirely 
 vanished from the corner teeth of the same jaw. At twelve years 
 the crown of all the front teeth in the middle lower jaw has become 
 triangular, and the middle teeth are much worn down. As the 
 horse advances in age the gums shrink away from the teeth, which 
 consequently acquire a long, narrow appearance, and their kernels 
 have become changed into a darkish point ; grey hairs increase on 
 
89 
 
 the foreliead, over the eyes, and the chin assumes the form of an 
 angle. 
 
 ANATOMY OF THE HORSE. 
 
 The Arabs have the following rules for the proportions of a horse : 
 — The ears should be short, and quick in action, the bones firm but 
 thin, the jaws not fleshy, nor the muscles enlarged, the nostrils well 
 spread, like those of a lion ; the eyes black and set in the centre of 
 the head ; the chest prominent, proceeding gradually from the slope 
 of the shoulders, which of necessity causes them to project. The 
 withers prominent, the loins close, the shoulder long, the thigh 
 short, the belly hollow, the buttocks well rounded, it being regarded 
 as most fortunate when the buttocks are as long as the withers and 
 back together. The veins in the legs should be scarcely perceptible, 
 the gaff black, and of one shade, the mane fine and thick, the skin 
 firm, and the tail stout, with a gradual declension. The horse, in 
 fact, should be proportioned thus : Four points broad — The head, 
 the chest, the buttocks, the limbs. Four points long — The chest, 
 the fore-shoulders, the belly, the hips. Four points short — The ribs, 
 the pasterns, the ears, the tail. 
 
 When a horse is longer from the point of the withers to the en d 
 of the nose than from that point to the tail, the proportion is good ; 
 it being different when the reverse is the case. 
 
 Acting on this, General Morris has proposed the following plan of 
 estimating the true proportion of a horse : — 
 
 " The generic law of proportion applicable to strength and swift- 
 ness, sustained by a certain mathematical demonstration, is found in 
 the direction of rayons articulaires. Let us remember they are com- 
 posed, not only of bone, but of muscle. It is not the bone only in 
 its shape and direction which is to be considered, but what is seen in 
 Imagination when the horse is in motion. 
 
 '• First, a perfect parallelism should exist between the head, the 
 shoulders, the buttocks, and the pastern. Second, the same applies 
 to the chest, the arm, and the bones of the haunches. All these 
 parallel directions should form angles of -iSdeg. Neither the head 
 nor chest really form these points, but for general consideration they 
 should be so regarded. 
 
 '• Let A C be a horizontal line, or starting point. At the point A 
 raise the perpendicular A B, and take upon this last the length A E, 
 equal to twice and a half the line X X, imaginary measure of a head. 
 This length A E represents, according to Bourgelat, the height of the 
 horse, from his head to the ground. 
 
 "Drawing from the point E a line parallel with the base, and 
 
90 
 
 making E D equal to A E, we form with the base the square 
 A E D C, which would inclose the whole horse. (A series of experi- 
 ments has induced M. Vallon, the veterinary, to think that the 
 length of a horse might exceed his height by a fifth.) Afterwards 
 we measure on the same vertical line A B, a length equal to three 
 heads and one third, which gives us the distance from the nape to 
 the ground. At the point B we form with the line A B an angle of 
 45deg., the half of a right angle, which gives us the position of the 
 head in a natural attitude — that is to say, the attitude of a blood 
 horse when aroused by any cause whatever. To have the direction 
 of the crest, we trace B F perpendicularly to the line B G, the 
 direction of the head, and the point F. at the intersection of the line 
 B F with the horizontal line E D, will be the top of the withers, for 
 B F is of the length of a head, and one-sixteenth the proportion 
 adopted by Bourgelat. At the point F, the top of the withers, we 
 draw F K, parallel to the line of the head, and we obtain the 
 position of the shoulder-blade. 
 
 " To get at the correct position of the arm. at the point K, we 
 draw the line K I, parallel to B F, in the direction of the chest. 
 Adopting the principle of Bourgelat, that there should be the length 
 of a head from the withers to the loins, we trace upon the horizontal 
 line E D the length of the head, F L ; the point L determines the 
 point of the hip-bone ; and, tracing a parallel through the point L, 
 in the direction of the heart, we reach the height of the haunch, 
 L H, and subsequently the point of the thigh running the point H. 
 Let us here remark, that the point H does not represent the point 
 of the buttocks, but merely the intersection of the haunch and 
 thigh-bone. The line P R shows the direction of the leg-bone. 
 To attain its true direction we say that the proportions admitted 
 by Bourgelat are the length of a head from the point of the 
 haunch to the knee-pan, by a vertical line. Measuring, therefore, 
 the length of the head upon this vertical line, from L, the bone of 
 the haunch, we draw at the extremity, P. of this line, a parallel 
 to one of the three points of the fore-shoulder, or haunch. This 
 will determine the bone of the leg — or, rather, this line, P R, 
 will be the tangent to the fore part of the knee-pan, and passes 
 the centre of the ham. 
 
 " We have drawn the line ' o 5 ' at the angle of 45deg. from 
 the ground, and shown the natural position of the pastern-bone ; 
 this line being extended, crosses, at a right angle, the direction 
 of the leg, taking the two, P R and 'o ^,' to represent two equal 
 forces, viz., muscular contraction, and the resistance of the earth." 
 
91 
 
92 
 
 
 
 Faints of the Horse. 
 
 
 
 1. 
 
 Muzzle. 
 
 18. 
 
 Coronet. 
 
 31. 
 
 The hip-joint, round, 
 
 2. 
 
 Nostril. 
 
 19. 
 
 Hoof or foot. 
 
 
 or whirl-bone. 
 
 3.' 
 
 Forehead. 
 
 20. 
 
 Heel. 
 
 32. 
 
 The stifle-joint. 
 
 4. 
 
 Jaw. 
 
 21. 
 
 Withers. 
 
 33. 
 
 Lower thigh or 
 
 5. 
 
 Poll. 
 
 22. 
 
 Back. 
 
 
 gaskin. 
 
 6. 
 
 6. Crest. 
 
 23. 
 
 23. Ribs (formincr to- 
 
 34. 
 
 The quarters. 
 
 7. 
 
 Thropple or wind- 
 
 
 gether the bai'rel or 
 
 35. 
 
 The hock. 
 
 
 pipe. 
 
 
 chest). 
 
 36. 
 
 The point of the 
 
 8. 
 
 8. Shoulder-blade. 
 
 24. 
 
 The circumference 
 
 
 hock. 
 
 9. 
 
 Point of shoulder. 
 
 
 of the chest at 
 
 37. 
 
 The curb place. 
 
 10. 
 
 Bosom or breast. 
 
 
 this point, called 
 
 38. 
 
 The cannon-bone. 
 
 11. 
 
 11. True-arm. 
 
 
 the girth. 
 
 39. 
 
 The back sinew. 
 
 12. 
 
 Elbow. 
 
 25. 
 
 The loins. 
 
 40. 
 
 Pastern or fetlock- 
 
 13. 
 
 Forearm (arm). 
 
 26. 
 
 The croup. 
 
 
 joint. 
 
 14. 
 
 Knee. 
 
 27. 
 
 The hip. 
 
 41. 
 
 Coronet. 
 
 15. 
 
 Cannon-bone. 
 
 28. 
 
 The flank. 
 
 42. 
 
 Foot or hoof. 
 
 16. 
 
 Back sinew. 
 
 29. 
 
 The sheath. 
 
 43. 
 
 Heel. 
 
 17. 
 
 Fetlock or pastern- 
 joint. 
 
 30. 
 
 The root of the dock 
 or tail. 
 
 44. 
 
 Spavin-place. 
 
 CORDS, CLEANING OF. 
 
 No. 1 . — They should be washed with white soft soap in lukewarm 
 water, and then rinsed in plent}^ of cold water. When nearly dry 
 they should be turned inside out and strained upon a board to their 
 full extent, and just before they are quite dry they should be ironed 
 on the wrong side. 
 
 No. 2. — Take half a dozen potatoes and scrape to a pulp, which 
 cover with rain water, and let soak for half an hour ; then pour off 
 the water, and with it scour the cords by means of a water brush, 
 and dry before a fire — not in the sun. 
 
 COLT, TO DETERMINE HEIGHT HE WILL ATTAIN WHEN FULL GROWN. 
 
 When the colt gets to three weeks old, or as soon as he is perfectly 
 strengthened in his limbs, measure from the edge of the hair on the 
 hoofs to the middle of the first joint, and for every inch it will grow 
 to the height of a hand of four inches when its growth is natural. 
 Thus if this distance be found sixteen inches, it will make a horse 
 sixteen hands high. This rule may not hold good in every case, 
 but in nine cases out of ten it will give the ultimate height within 
 half an inch. 
 
 CORN INDICATOR, TO MAKE. 
 
 Prepare a wooden spout about four inches square in the clear, and 
 let it lead down from a corn-chamber, which is kept under lock and 
 key, to the saddle room or stable to which the groom has access ; 
 
93 
 
 then, making two slits at sucli distances apart as will include one 
 quarter of a peck of corn between them, two slides are adapted to 
 these, and connected by a lever, nearly in the same way as in the 
 common shot pouch, so that as one is pushed in the other is dra^^^l 
 out. The only difference is that each of the slides must pass 
 through both sides of the spout, and project four inches beyond it ; 
 for, without this precaution, the groom can pull them half way, and 
 the com will then run through freely, as long as the lever is so held. 
 An ordinary index attached to this lever, and moved one notch by 
 each action of the slide, will register as many quarterns as have 
 been allowed to pass through. Any carpenter can make this if he 
 has the index supplied to him, but an agricultural machine maker is 
 the proper person to do the work thoroughly well. 
 
 DYEING HOESES. 
 
 To obtain a dye for a ba}- procure a small handful each of sumach 
 and alder bark, and boil them in half a pint of water with half a 
 drachm of copperas ; then paint the grey hairs over again and again 
 till the colour is dark enough. 
 
 FLIES FROM HORSES, TO KEEP. 
 
 Fill a tub with water, and put plenty of walnut leaves into it ; 
 let it stand a day or two, and when the horse is required for use, 
 with a drench moisten with the decoction all the most susceptible 
 parts. 
 
 HORSE BARKING TREES. 
 
 You may prevent horses from barking trees by tying to the stem 
 of them a few branches of thorns sufficiently thick and high to 
 prevent the horses reaching the bark ; they will last for several 
 years. Another plan is to lay on the ground, all round each tree, a 
 quantity of boughs, or rough arms of trees. Horses will not 
 attempt to stand on or amongst these, so that they have only to be 
 placed sufficiently far from the trees. Good iron tree guards, at 
 '20s. to 22s. each will be the most durable and most sightly. Wire 
 netting, of a larger mesh than is used for keeping rabbits out of a 
 flower-garden, loosely fastened round the trees, is, on a small scale, 
 inexpensive and efficient. 
 
 HORSE DESTROYING HIS CLOTHING. 
 
 No. 1. — Have a crib-biter's bar-muzzle made. This can be 
 always kept on, as a horse can easily eat both corn and long food 
 with it on. 
 
94 
 
 No. 2. — Get a common coarse horsehair rug. Horses will of 
 course "try it on" with the horsehair rug at first, but after one 
 trial they generally drop it. 
 
 No. 3. — Dissolve a tablespoonful of cayenne pepper in half a pint 
 of train oil, and dab an old roller, &c., with it, the horse will not 
 touch the clothes. If he should, a teaspoonful of turpentine may 
 be added. 
 
 No. 4, — Put a cradle on, it is quite impossible for the horse to 
 turn either way with his head. 
 
 No. 5. — A long stick, buckled to the roller at one end, and to 
 the head-stall at the other, is a most efficient prevention. It should 
 be left loose enough to allow of the horse lying down in comfort. 
 The pole should be fastened by a very short strap to the roller, 
 and should be long enough to reach half way up the neck from the 
 shoulder ; from this point a strap (or chain if the horse is very 
 fiavage with his mouth) should extend to the headstall, where a 
 buckle should fasten it securely behind the jaw. 
 
 HORSE FROM FIRE, TO EXTRICATE. 
 
 If the harness be thrown over a draught horse, or a saddle on the 
 lDack of a saddle horse, they may be led out of the stable as easily as 
 on common occasions. Should there be time to substitute the bridle 
 ' for the halter, the difficulty towards saving them will be still further 
 diminished. 
 
 HORSE GETTING HIS TONGUE OVER THE BIT, TO PREVENT, 
 
 A piece of stout leather, about 2in. wide and 4in, long, stitched 
 on the bar of the bit to form a flexible port, will prevent the horse 
 getting his tongue over the bit, 
 
 HORSE HANGING OUT THE TONGUE. 
 
 No, 1, — Fasten a small sprig of gorse to the cheek of the bit, 
 so that every time the tongue is protruded it gets pricked ; the horse 
 will soon get over the trick. 
 
 No. 2. — Put a port on the snaffle of whatever pattern of bit-and- 
 bridoon bridle best suits the horse. 
 
 No. 3. — Take a narrow strip of leather and fasten a row of nails 
 (tin tacks) along it. Fix the leather from one cheek of the bit to 
 the other, so as to form a bar. The horse on putting out his tongue 
 will scratch it against the nails, and he will soon get out of the ugly 
 habit of hanging it out. If he licks the side of the bit the same 
 plan will answer. 
 
95 
 
 No. 4, — The subjoined is a sketch of a bit which has been 
 recommended as effectual : — You have merely to attach a thin iron 
 
 n 
 
 n 
 
 (=§ 
 
 plate to your ordinary double bridle bit, made movable, to lie on the 
 horse's tongue, and move upwards, as shown in dotted line. 
 No. 5. — The best remedy is a tightly buckled noseband. 
 
 HORSE LEANING AWAY FROM THE POLE. 
 
 No. 1. — Get a strap buckled to the noseband or bit and reaching 
 to where the trace buckles on on the outside, and tighten to keep 
 the horse's head straight. 
 
 No. 2. — Get two buckle-straps made, and buckle them to the 
 inside of the ring snaffles of each horse, then cross them through 
 the hames tenant, from there to the bearing rein tenant on the pad, 
 and fasten there. 
 
 horses' feet balling with snow. 
 Soft soap made with wood ashes is, in Canada "West, rubbed 
 on the soles of horses' feet, which causes them immediately to 
 cast the snow therefrom. Let this be done, just preparatory to 
 sleighing, each time that the horses may be shedded during a day's 
 sleigh-ride. Before starting it will be necessary to renew the appli- 
 cation of the soft soap, as their standing on warm stable-compost 
 does away with its efficacy. 
 
A useful plan is to use sheet gutta-percha ^in. tliick. To ascertain 
 the right dimensions of the piece required for the fore and hind feet, 
 take a piece of paper and place it on the shoe as it is fixed on the 
 horse's foot ; with a pencil, mark on the inside of the paper the size 
 of the inside form of the shoe ; cut out the piece of paper, and mark 
 the gutta-percha. Allow ^in. larger of gutta-percha on each side of 
 the front part to go under the shoe, to keep it from coming out 
 when the horse is at work. Taper the edge of the gutta-percha to 
 facilitate it going under the shoe, and cut out a triangular piece of 
 the gutta-percha so as to prevent an undue pressure on the frog. 
 The gutta-percha may easily be introduced into and taken from the 
 shoe by heating in hot water. Some pour melted suet into the 
 hoof. The best plan is to have three screw-holes in the shoe, one at 
 the apex, and the others at either heel. Steel wedges should be 
 screwed tight into the holes, the shoe and sole being covered by 
 strong leather previously, which the screws will keep in place, proper 
 holes having been made in the leather to admit the screws. You 
 can safely gallop on wet snow, or on the smoothest ice. The groom 
 takes the screws off, and keeps them in his pocket when the horse is 
 in his stable. When they are off, the shoe is only an ordinary one. 
 with three holes in it. 
 
 HORSE TO FETCH AND CARRY, TO MAKE. 
 
 Tie up a carrot in a handkerchief and when the horse is hungry 
 he will try to get at it, and lift it with his teeth ; then open the 
 handkerchief and let him eat the carrot. By constant repetition an 
 intelligent horse will learn to depend upon you for his reward, and 
 will bring the handkerchief to you. 
 
 HUNTING BOOTS, CLEANING OF, 
 
 To clean enamelled leather hunting boots wash them well, and 
 then rub in a very little neatsfoot oil, and after a few minutes wipe 
 it off the surface. Neatsfoot oil also has the merit of keeping the 
 leather soft. 
 
 HUNTING COATS, TO WATERPROOF. 
 
 To make a scarlet hunting coat waterproof (or rather water- 
 repellent), procure -^-Ib. of powdered alum, lib. sugar of lead, take 
 off the buttons of the coat, steep the ''pink" in a tub containing 
 the above ingredients dissolved in 2 quarts or 2-^ quarts of water ; 
 keep it in for six hours ; the longer the better. If dried in the open 
 air it will be better than dried before the fire , The ingredients will 
 take twelve hours dissolving. 
 
97 
 
 Some dissolve the alum and lead in boiling water, and the coat or 
 other garment is dipped in the clear liquor poured off when cold 
 from the white precipitate of sulphate of lead. In waterproofing 
 all kinds of cloth it is as well to do it before making up lest the 
 cloth shrink. 
 
 JIBBING HORSES. 
 
 No. 1. — Put the horse behind the two first horses in a waggon, 
 when he may be induced to go without any coercion. 
 
 No. 2. — Let the horse be ridden down to a field with his harness 
 on, and then yoked to a light bush-harrow ; he will draw this about 
 very well with the man on his back ; when his shoulders have got 
 well warmed to the work, let him be yoked to a plough or harrow 
 beside another horse, the man still on his back. He will soon take 
 kindly to his work. 
 
 No. 3. — Take a cart or light waggon to the middle of a large 
 field, and having harnessed the horse, put him in the shafts, and 
 there leave him, with a boy at a distance to watch him — leave him 
 there till he thinks fit to move ; don't give in the first day, but try 
 it on for a few days — of course removing him to the stable in the 
 evening ; use no violence, but merely leave him alone in the cart. 
 He will soon get tired of this solitary way of going to work. 
 
 No. 4. — Never hit the horse, but ask him to go, and, on refusal, 
 put a head-stall on him, and, with rope enough attached to give the 
 head liberty, fasten to the end a 4st. weight. Place it on the 
 ground, and leave him standing eight hours ; then take it off, and 
 ask him to go. Next morning, if he refuse again, repeat the dose. 
 
 No. 5. — Before starting, order the groom to be prepared with a 
 few cut carrots in a server. The groom holds them at just sufficient 
 distance from the horse's nose, so that he cannot reach them without 
 moving; and take care that nothing is in the trap, and that the 
 wheels are on tolerably level ground. The groom must continue to 
 move, with the horse's nose in the server, allowing him to eat a few 
 carrots, until you have gained the seat, when a smart touch of the 
 whip will send him into a trot, and the difficulty for the time is 
 overcome. Continue this treatment, the groom each day at starting 
 offering the carrots at a greater distance from the horse, and allowing 
 himself to be overtaken, when the horse must always receive his 
 reward. 
 
 No. 6. — Take the horse into a fallow field, and there harness and 
 put him to a heavy cart. If he will not draw, have ready a couple 
 of strong horses, and yoke them to the hind part of the cart, and 
 draw him backwards. Let him have plenty of it. 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 No. 7. — Persist in backing the horse. If he attempts to rear a 
 breaker's martingale will prevent him. 
 
 No. 8. — Place the collar on him an hour or two before he is 
 wanted to work, and lay him up without food or any other amuse- 
 ment. 
 
 No. 9. — Wait quietly until he will start. It is often a good plan 
 to turn the horse round, after which he will go off in the right 
 direction. On no account use the whip, or attempt to drag the 
 horse off. 
 
 No. 10. — In India the natives often tie a piece of string just above 
 one of the fore knees of the horse, and pull him gently onwards. 
 
 LEAPING TO TEACH A HORSE. 
 
 It should always be remembered that jumping is a natural quality 
 in horses. Prefer the double line system, it is less likely to cause 
 refusals. Begin by crossing the lines (common plough lines) under 
 the chin, to the rings of the snaffle bit, and then pick out a small 
 broken-down bank, over which a horse can climb. Put one man on 
 the landing-side with the lines ; another man leads the horse up to 
 the fence ; and the man with the lines calls to the horse, who in a 
 very short time finds out what is wanted. The lesson is then 
 increased in difficulty, but care must be taken not to render it too 
 long. Begin (and continue for the first four or five days) to jump 
 your horse in hand, and make him a "standing-jumper" before you 
 let him go fast. The best thing at first is a fallen tree ; lead him 
 up quite close to it, and let him smell and examine it ; then, by a 
 little encouragement from a groom behind, bring him over. He will 
 soon learn to rise quietly, and spring from his haunches. Continue 
 this practice, without more excitement or punishment than is abso- 
 lutely needed, for half an hour at a time, till he jumps cheerfully 
 and in a well-balanced form. After a while pass on to a low stiff 
 bar (if a "leaping bar," it should be fixed, and covered with furze, 
 and the side posts should not be too high to prevent the rein passing 
 over them), but do not continue too long at one bar, and by all 
 means do not raise it higher and higher till the horse falls ; this is a 
 common and fatal mistake in bar practice. Taking him over a farm, 
 find out suitable fences (not wattle hurdles — they give way easily, 
 and engender carelessness) over which to put him, at one time 
 standing, at another from the trot ; taking care to select fences with 
 a fair-sized ditch, and such as are neither blind nor "trappy." 
 
 After four or five days' practice in hand, begin to ride him over 
 
99 
 
 the same leaps, commencing with the tree ; be patient and gentle, 
 using no more spur than is necessary to make him careful. 
 
 A corres23ondent thus describes the bar used by him : — •'•' T took 
 the ti-unk of a tree, of a convenient height (selected from a pollard, 
 or some other kind valueless for timber), and well clothed with 
 gorse bound round with 'withy/ or green stews of hazel. The 
 side rails commenced from the ground, and were so made that a 
 leading rein would slip easily over them, as I always began my 
 lessons with a cavesson and rein, thus avoiding weight on the back. 
 The man got the colt well within the side rails to face the fence, and 
 walked on the outside himself. When a greater height was wanted 
 (by no means necessary) short faggots of gorse stood against the tree 
 supplied it, and the fence could be raised to any reasonable extent, 
 as they were bent more or less. I may state that for after practice 
 I had nearly every description of fence made on the same principle 
 (doubles and so forth), that horses could be led over or ridden when 
 they knew their business ; and so successful was the practice that 
 young ones in their first season carried me quite as safely, when 
 rightly handled, as made horses. As a hint anent riding at fences, 
 I may say that they always began with no bit in their mouths ; 
 and at the double — which consisted of two strong 'stake and 
 bounds/ with a wide ditch on both the rising and landing side, with 
 about six feet between the hedges — I always found that as soon as 
 they knew what it was, though allowed to go quite in their own way, 
 they raced at it full speed, but always doubled it, not one attempting 
 to take it at a fly, though it must have been well within their 
 powers, at any rate not over twenty feet." 
 
 Another correspondent thus writes : — " Training an unspoilt horse 
 to jump is a very easy and quick process, but when once he has been 
 allowed to get a bad form, or has been made nervous by spur or 
 violent falls, the work is long and tedious and doubtful. I have 
 found the best system to be this : — Begin at a low stiff bar (fallen 
 tree or narrow dry wall is perhaps the best) in hand, standing ; 
 work him backwards and forwards quietly till he collects himself 
 and rises well up in front before springing ; then allow him to trot 
 round in hand. Pm^sue this course without more punishment than 
 is necessary to make him careful, till he will jump a common hurdle 
 in hand without nervousness or carelessness — i. e., till he gathers 
 himself together and gets well up on his trot. Then he may be 
 mounted, and taken over the lower jump ; but be satisfied with his 
 doing, in cold blood, low jumps in good form. By this system one 
 can make in a fortnight any promising young horse a much more 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 clever timber jumper than the majorit}^ of two-season hunters. 
 To construct a bar for the purpose, let it be strong and large, with a 
 small iron peg at each end, fitted to rest on iron notches, the notches 
 being fixed on a flat piece of iron, and fastened to the side posts. 
 From one side the bar is firm, which it should be at first when 
 placed low for the horse to jump in hand ; on the other side the 
 bar, resting on a notch, will fly out if struck, and yet, being heavy, 
 requires some force to make it fall. The notches or rests for the 
 bar should be at an angle of about 30deg. with the posts. By means 
 of this bar a young horse can soon be made clever at jumping in 
 hand, and so taught to balance himself and jump from his haunches; 
 and also, on the other side, it can be made useful and safe to ride. 
 The side barriers should not be too high or have tops to the uprights, 
 so that a man (with a horse in a line) can run outside and hold the 
 line as the horse takes the bar." 
 
 PINK, CLEANING OF. 
 
 When a red coat has become spotted apply spirits of turpentine, 
 and when this has evaporated saturate the spot with liquor ammonise ; 
 or, apply liquor ammoniae alone diluted with about five times its 
 quantity of water. 
 
 PRESERVING HOOFS OF A DEAD HORSE. 
 
 First remove the internal parts ; this is best done by placing the 
 feet in the centre of a hot manure heap for twenty-four hours, when 
 the hoofs will readily come off. Wash them in a solution of car- 
 bolic acid, 1 to 50 of water, then fill them with plaster of Paris, and 
 dry slowly without heat. The hoofs may be mounted as inkstands 
 or snuffboxes, or simply shod, according to fancy. 
 
 PULLING HORSES. 
 
 Put the curb-chain inside the mouth from hook to hook. It is 
 often effectual. To stop a runaway horse, or render the most pulling 
 brute quiet and playful with his bit, get a double-plain snaffle, rather 
 thick and heavy, the joints rather open ; cut an old curb-chain in 
 half and let it hang down from the bottom snaffle joint. When the 
 brute offers to pull or bolt, instantly merely drop your hand ; 
 of course the curb-chain will drop between his front teeth, and 
 should the beast savage it, he will soon understand the vast difference 
 between pleasure and pain, and in a short time he will play with the 
 very thing he before tried to savage, and in the end become, from a 
 vicious brute, a playful and good-mouthed horse. This plan is 
 
101 
 
 merely a different mode of applying the keys which form a part of 
 every breaker's bit. 
 
 REAEING HORSES. 
 
 There are several remedies for rearing horses. The best we know 
 of is to make them rear on firm turf, and then, slipping off side- 
 ways, pull them over backwards. It is, however, a feat requiring 
 some dexterity, and is best left to a professed breaker. Others knock 
 the horse down by a blow between the ears with a stick or a soda- 
 water bottle, which last has also the effect of frightening the horse 
 by the deluge of water. 
 
 A correspondent thus details his experiences \vith a confirmed 
 rearer and kicker. He says : "He was brought out into a soft 
 meadow, and then put into a cart — to which he seemed to have no 
 objection — but the instant it was proposed to move he commenced 
 kicking in first-rate style, which I stopped with some difficulty by 
 holding his head up. His near foreleg was then strapped up a la 
 Earey, with a stirrup-leather — which is as good a thing for the 
 pui'pose as can be found — and a long rope fastened to the snaffle on 
 the off-side and brought under the pad to the near ; he was urged to 
 move on, made an abortive attempt to kick, and then reared perpen- 
 dicularly, when with the rope I brought him over backwards (cart 
 and all), and, before he could recover himself, clapped hobbles on 
 him. drew him all up in a heap, and so left him for twenty minutes. 
 At the end of that time I loosed him, and let him stand for a time 
 to stretch himself, and then into harness again ; when a ditto of the 
 above scene was repeated, except on this occasion, after tying up, I 
 sat on him, and patted him, and talked to him, &c., but kept him a 
 little longer (say half an hour) in duresse, and then into harness 
 again, when he drew about a hundred yards, and stopped to kick — 
 but having the long rope before spoken of attached to his off-fetlock, 
 I drew his leg up by main force, which stopped his kicking ; and, 
 having done so, I strapped his leg up, and tried to make him draw 
 on three. This time he did not attempt to rear, but made twenty 
 or thirty of the most tenific plunges forward. I stopped him by 
 hanging on to the rope when he was in the air, and so bringing him 
 down on his nose — a regular cropper ! when he was again tied up for 
 half an hour. From this time his struggles got weaker, but I kept 
 at him all day, and by evening he drew the cart loaded. The fol- 
 lowing day the fight recommenced, but he was much more easily 
 subdued ; and that evening I put a saddle on him, and rode him five 
 miles." 
 
 Again : Get a penny slip (that is, a thin cord, with a noose at 
 
102 
 
 one end), and when the horse is ready harnessed, put it into his 
 mouth with the bit, bring one end over the head behind the ears, 
 run the loose end through the loop, and draw it quite tight — not 
 so tight, however, as would be necessary to make him stand still ; 
 you will have no difficulty in preventing his rearing or twisting. 
 Slacken and withdraw it when he is in the shafts. A few sjich 
 lessons will, it is said, effectually cure him of the habit. 
 
 Or, put an old set of harness on him, and before you take him 
 near the carriage he is to be put to, strap his near foreleg up a la 
 Earey, and let him walk to it on three legs. If this does not succeed, 
 have a strap fastened from the off fore-fetlock through the ring of 
 the driving saddle, and when he rears pull the strap and let him 
 come down upon his nose. Use him very quietly, but be determined 
 and firm, and, of course, operate on soft ground to prevent broken 
 knees. 
 
 Again : Treat the horse kindly and quietly, use an easy straight 
 curb-bit, taking off the curb, and buckle the reins on the cheek. 
 Harness the horse quietly, lead it out and place it before the 
 trap, in an open space, without being held ; lift up the shafts and 
 draw the trap carefully on, taking care to place the reins so that they 
 can be easily taken in hand without interfering with the animal's 
 mouth, or permitting it to know the reins have been touched, then 
 step quickly, but quietly, into the trap, leaving the horse's head 
 free, to start when and as it pleases, and do not check it suddenly, 
 but feel its mouth with a light touch and restrain it in the most 
 gentle and gradual manner to a walk, which continue until it is 
 perfectly settled, with the reins as loose as possible. 
 
 SHOEING HORSES. 
 
 Mr. W. Miller, in '• A Plain Treatise on Horse Shoeing," says: "You 
 must begin by taking off one of the old shoes, the other should 
 always be left on, for the horse to stand upon ; he is sure to stand 
 quieter upon a shod foot than he can upon a bare one ; and it will 
 prevent it breaking the crust. Eaise every one of the clenches with 
 the buffer, and, if the shoe will not then come off easily, loosen 
 some of the nails with the punch ; but never tear the shoe off by 
 main force ; it splits the crust, and widens the nail holes. The 
 shoe being off, you should rasp the edge of the hoof all round, and 
 take out any stubs that may be left in the crust. Then you must 
 pare out the foot. If the horse has a strong, upright foot, with 
 plenty of horn, you should shorten the toe, lower the heels and 
 crust, and cut out the dead horn from the sole, and also from the 
 
103 
 
 comers between the heels and the bars ; the best way of doing this 
 is to pare the bars down nearly even with the sole, and then you can 
 get at the dead horn in the corners more easily. On no account 
 ever cut anything away from the sides of the bars, or, what is called, 
 ' open out the heels ;' and be sure that you never touch the frog with 
 a knife. A weak, flat foot will bear very little paring or rasping ; 
 the crust of such a foot is sure to be thin at the toe, low at the heels, 
 and the sole thin and weak ; therefore the less you do to it the 
 better, beyond getting rid of the little dead horn there may be, and 
 making the crust level where it is to bear upon the shoe ; this must 
 be done to all feet ; and, as the inner quarter, where there should be 
 no nails, does not wear away as fast as the outer quarter, where the 
 nails are driven, you should always place a rasp upon its edge across 
 the foot, to be quite sure that the two sides are level. Before you 
 pare out a foot you should always think of the state of the roads, 
 and if they are dry and covered with loose stones, or have been 
 lately repaired, you should take very little off the sole of any foot, 
 because, if you thin it, the stones will bruise it ; but when the 
 season is wet, and the stones worn in, you may pare out the sole of 
 a strong foot, until it will yield to hard pressure from your thumbs ; 
 but you must never pare it thin enough to yield to light pressure." 
 
 Horses should be shod every three weeks if they have regular 
 work. 
 
 The immediate application of tar, or some similar material, to the 
 newly-cut surface would at once arrest the escape of the fluids and 
 preserve the elasticity of the horn. It is quite possible to err on 
 the side of caution in the use of the knife ; a certain quantity of 
 horny matter must be removed, or the toes will either become too 
 long or the feet too upright, and the animal will move with an im- 
 perfect and stumbling action. When the hoof has been properly 
 prepared by cutting and rasping, the shoe is usually applied while 
 hot, and held sufficiently long and with enough pressure to burn a 
 seating. The advantages of this method are obvious ; the adapta- 
 tion of the shoe to the foot is thus rendered perfect, and the effect 
 of the heat is to make the part of the crust with which the shoe is 
 in contact soft and elastic for the time, and thus facilitate the 
 driving of the nails. The fewer the nails used the better. As much 
 as possible of the posterior part of the foot should be left unfettered. 
 Some horse owners contend that three nails are amply sufficient, but 
 in ordinary practice six will be found to be the minimum number. 
 Horses frequently stumble through bad shoeing, in that case keep 
 the heels up and shorten the toes, have less taken off the heels, and 
 
104 
 
 when the shoe is about to be fixed on the foot, have a piece taken 
 out at the toe for the clip to get into, so that when the shoe is fixed 
 the hoof shall project over the shoe at the toe about a quarter to 
 five-sixteenths of an inch, then have the hoof rasped to the shoe in 
 a rounded form. 
 
 Shoeing Restive Horses. — No. 1. — Try dressing the blacksmith in 
 groom's clothes, and shoeing at home instead of taking the animal 
 to the blacksmith's shop. Put a collar on, then fasten a waggon- 
 rope to it, and passing it round the hind fetlock, make the other end 
 fast also to the collar ; the horse may be blindfolded. 
 
 No. 2.-^Let the smith undergo a thorough ablution, especially 
 his hair, &c., put on his wife's garments, and a pair of list shoes ; 
 take a pair of light clean-holed fore shoes in separate pockets, with 
 nails ready pointed (no knife, rasp, or anything that smells or sounds 
 like the forge), and a wooden mallet, pro hammer. Be sure the 
 nails are pointed and ready ; and after walking the horse about a 
 few turns, he can get one shoe on and then the other. Once done 
 always done. The point is to avoid the smell and noise. 
 
 No. 3. — Let some one ride the horse into a building not the forge, 
 and remain mounted during the shoeing. The horse will often 
 remain quiet. 
 
 TOPS, CLEANING. 
 
 The following is said to be a good recipe for brown tops : — |-oz, 
 alkali root, 2oz. cream of tartar, loz. oxalic acid, loz. salt of sorrel, 
 loz. best rhubarb, mixed with a quart of boiling water. When 
 the tops are dry, polish them with a hard clean brush. Scour 
 previously with 2oz. oxalic acid in a quart of water. 
 
 STABLE MANAGEMENT. 
 
 AMMONIA IN STABLES. 
 
 No. 1. — To prevent injury to the eyes of horses from the ammonia 
 arising from urine, procure a quantity of granulated or powdered 
 peat-charcoal. Moreover, the intermixture forms a most valuable 
 manure, and will amply repay the expense of the trivial alteration 
 which it will be expedient, but not indispensable, to make, by exca- 
 vating the centre and end of the stall to a depth of about twelve 
 inches, and partly filling up the excavation with the charcoal (the 
 communication from the centre to the end being by a simple drain), 
 which will entirely absorb and deodorise the gas. 
 
 No. 2. — Keep in the stableacouple of pans filled with diluted hydro- 
 chloric acid, and all the ammonia will be absorbed as it is given off. 
 
105 
 
 BEDS OF HORSES. 
 
 Some persons have advocated sawdust as a good bedding for 
 horses, it lasts good a long time, is cheap, and is fairly good manure. 
 Some recommend tan ; this is also a good manure for heavy land. 
 The following is the best way of using sawdust : — 
 
 Lay a substratum of sawdust, say two inches deep, and above that 
 lay less than half the usual quantity of straw ; rake twice a day, or 
 oftener, so much of the sawdust as is wetted, and clean the whole of 
 it out once a fortnight, or thereabouts. The sawdust absorbs the 
 urine, and very little of the straw is so wet or dirty as to make it 
 necessary to throw it out. One fatal objection to the use of sawdust 
 without straw is that the horses' feet get packed with the sawdust, 
 and this makes them hot and uncomfortable. 
 
 Sawdust is best used in summer, and the horses' feet should be 
 picked out night and morning. It is as well to thoroughly clean 
 the beds every two or three days by raking and turning them. 
 Stains upon white horses from sawdust are rather troublesome to 
 get out. 
 
 A correspondent, under the signature of "Eolf," sends the following 
 plan for stables to take sawdust for bedding : — " I inclose a slight 
 sketch of a three-stalled stable, showing the floor in the various 
 
 stages of construction at A, B, and 0. J) dis the main drain, F the 
 foundation, G the surface of the ground, and L the hayloft. When 
 the foundations have been laid all round I shall clear the whole 
 
106 
 
 space inside of them to the depth of a foot or so, preserving the 
 natural fall of the ground, if it has any. If not, the surface may 
 be made to slope in any direction that is most convenient. On this 
 surface I shall lay rows, about two feet apart, of ordinary draining 
 tiles (a), so as to carry water off to the main drain, D. This drain 
 may be either built with bricks, or made of large tile pipes, and may 
 be either inside or outside the building. But if it is outside as 
 shown, and covered only by a light board, it will give facilities for 
 clearing the small drains now and then with a long iron rod ; and if 
 the board be left off in summer, some amount of ventilation and 
 coolness will be secured below the horses' feet. If it is intended to 
 have ordinary stall divisions, the foundations for their posts must be 
 laid at this stage ; but I am more in favour of a small log or two 
 hung from the roof by a chain, as is sometimes done in large stables, 
 and is quite sufficient for all but very vicious horses. 
 
 ''Above the small tiles I shall lay gravel or ashes (g), about a foot 
 deep, commencing with some about the size of ordinary road metal, 
 about six inches deep, and gradually reducing it in size until the top 
 is levelled all over with some about the size of beans. On the top 
 of this level surface of gravel rough slabs of wood (b) are to be laid 
 — ' outsides ' from a saw mill are the best for the purpose. They 
 should be laid at right angles to the position of the horse while 
 standing in his stall, and in passing to it, which will give him better 
 footing if at any time they chance to become uncovered." 
 
 Upon these boards I shall lay the sawdust (c), three inches deep 
 at first, but as it is added to every day, it will soon be much deeper, 
 until it is thought necessary to clear the whole of it out and begin 
 again. 
 
 Tan Beds. — In using this material, spread it about six inches thick 
 and remove the dung occasionally. Tan will last for months in a 
 yard; but in a loose box it becomes saturated with the salts of the 
 urine, and should be changed every month or six weeks. 
 
 BITS AND BITTING HORSES. 
 
 The following admirable description we extract from the Field : 
 — " The breaking snaffle is usually a large, smooth mouthpiece 
 jointed in the middle, with keys attached to the centre of it for 
 the young horse to play with, so that he may keep his mouth 
 moist, a very necessary point. With a breaking snaffle it is always 
 advisable to have a martingal, as it gives the rider more control 
 over the young horse, and prevents him getting his head into 
 bad positions. The breaking snaffle should always bo large and 
 
107 
 
 smooth in the mouthpiece, as then it is not so Ukely to injure the 
 young horse's jaws or lips as a sharp twisted one. The plain smooth 
 snaffle differs from the breaking bit in being smaller in the mouth- 
 piece, and having no keys attached to the centre of it. It is generally 
 used for exercising and racing purposes. It is well to have the 
 mouthpiece of a good thickness for ordinary purposes — of course for 
 racing it must be made thin. 
 
 ''We nest come to the twisted snaffle. Many horses go very well in 
 this that are difficult to ride in a double bridle, on account of the 
 objection they have to the curb chain, which irritates them and causes 
 them to pull, which they do not when ridden with this bit. The 
 mouthpiece should be tolerably thick and the twist not too sharp, as, 
 if it is shai^, it is liable to cut the angles of the mouth. There is 
 another capital bit, suitable for the same sort of horse as the 
 twisted snaffle, the mouthpiece of which is made of a cm^b chain 
 with good-sized links. It is very much used for racing ; it is an 
 excellent bit for a horse that pulls very hard, and it can be made to 
 act very severely by working it from side to side in the horse's 
 mouth. There are other sorts of snaffles, such as ring snaffles, very 
 much the same as are used in driving. There are also snaffles with 
 double mouthpieces of various forms. The gag snaffle is made of 
 the mouthpiece of an ordinary snaffle, either smooth or twisted, with 
 a ring at each end, through which the headstall of the bridle, which 
 is stitched in a rounded fonn, runs freely. Gags are sometimes 
 made with two rings at each end for the headstall to pass through, 
 but it is better to have only one ring, as then they work more easily. 
 Gags should never be used alone, but with either another snaffle or 
 a curb bit, and then they should be brought into use only when 
 actually required. They are most excellent bits for bad-mouthed 
 horses, especially if they are inchned to get their heads down — they 
 give the rider great power to stop a horse just when he wants. 
 
 " I have come to curb-bits. They, except for military riding or 
 hacking, are seldom used alone, but are combined with one or other 
 of the different sorts of snaffles described. An ordinary curb-bit is 
 formed in this way of a mouthpiece, which is made in various 
 shapes, placed at right angles to, and connecting two uprights, which 
 are called the cheeks. The upper cheek is made shorter than the 
 lower one ; to the upper one is fastened the headstall, and to the 
 ring of the lower the reins ; to the top of each upper cheek is 
 fastened a spring hook, to which the curb-chain is attached which 
 passes under the horse's lower jaw ; and on the tightness of this, the 
 length of the lower cheek, and the shape of the mouthpiece, depend 
 
108 
 
 the severity and power of the bit. A lip-strap should connect the 
 two lower cheeks of the bit, passing through the ring that hangs 
 from the centre of the curb-chain, in order to prevent the horse 
 getting the bit into his mouth, and to prevent the curb-chain getting 
 out of its proper place if put on loose. An ordinary curb-bit is 
 seldom used alone, except in the case of the Hanoverian bit, but is 
 always combined with a snaffle or bridoon of some sort or other. 
 The Hanoverian bit is made with ornamental works on the cheeks, 
 and the mouthpiece is furnished with a high centre or port, and is 
 covered with rollers ; the different parts of it are also made move- 
 able. It is a very severe bit, but does very well for the purposes for 
 which it is generally used. The Ohifney is another very severe one, 
 the curb chain acting with greater power in this bit than in any 
 other. It is very suitable for ladies to ride with, or for very hard 
 pulling horses, as by its leverage it gives great power to the rider, 
 but requires very nice handling. The severer the bits are in their 
 action, the greater care they require in their use. The Segundo is 
 another sort of curb-bit used for hard-mouthed pulling horses, and 
 is made with a high moveable port. There is another bit that is a 
 good deal used in the hunting field, and a very good one ; the 
 mouthpiece of it slides up and down a short distance on the cheeks ; 
 it is called the Dunchurch. 
 
 '' For most horses that have their heads well placed, and are 
 temperate, with good mouths, the best bit is a plain smooth curb 
 and snaffle, or bit and bridoon, as they are generally called — not too 
 long in the lower cheek, and with a low port ; the mouthpiece of 
 the bridoon should be of a good size. This is the bit in general use, 
 and suits more horses than any other. But when you get horses 
 who carry their heads too high or too low, or are very determined 
 pullers, or very irritable, it is then requisite to bit them differently. 
 Ewe-necked horses, that get their heads up are about the most diffi- 
 cult of any to ride to hounds. They generally go best with a 
 snaffle, either smooth or twisted. A curb-chain snaffle is very useful 
 with this sort of horse, and a martingal, or else quite a plain double 
 bridle. As a general rule they cannot bear to have their heads 
 interfered with, especially at a fence. Many horses pull very hard if 
 ridden in severe bits and with tight curb chains, that do not pull 
 much in snaffles or light double bridles with tolerably loose curb 
 chains. But for determined pullers, with hard, bad mouths, it is well 
 to use a bridoon and Segundo or Chifney, or, at any rate, a bit with 
 cheeks sufficiently long to give a good amount of power to the rider. 
 For a bad-mouthed horse, especially one that is inclined to get his 
 
109 
 
 head down, and that pulls, or is difficult to stop just at the moment 
 you want, there is nothing like a gag, either used with a plain or 
 twisted snaffle* or a curb-bit. Gags are sometimes made like an 
 ordinary biidoon, but with holes in the ring of the bridoon for the 
 gag-rein to pass through ; bnt it is much better to have the gag 
 made so as to be used solely as a gag, and not as a bridoon as well. 
 
 " I am a great advocate for the use of nosebands, especially with 
 young horses, or awkward-mouthed ones ; if they get their mouths 
 wide open, the bit cannot have the proper effect, but the use of a 
 noseband precludes the possibility of their getting their mouths open 
 and acquiring such habits as getting the cheeks of the bit in their 
 mouths, and locking their jaws, as some horses will do. Nosebands 
 ought to be put on sufficiently tight to prevent the horse getting his 
 mouth open, and not too low down ; some horses require them much 
 tighter than others. A great number of hard pullers are apt to get 
 their mouths open, and a tight noseband prevents them doing this, 
 and when they cannot do this they ride pleasantly without pulling. 
 
 " Martingals ought only to be used by experienced horsemen, and 
 in riding a horse over fences with a martingal a good deal of care is 
 required to give and take with the martingal rein, so as not to check 
 the horse when he makes his effort to jump. When a martingal is 
 used on any rein it is always advisable to have the reins stitched 
 to the bit, as then there is no buckle to catch the ring of the mar- 
 tingal, and the buckle should be placed in the centre of the rein, so 
 as to admit of the martingal being put on. Care should be taken 
 not to put them on too short ; as a general nile, when a horse holds 
 himself up, the ring of the martingal should reach up to the bend 
 of his neck in his jowl. As to putting on bits, the cavalry regulation 
 is, that 'the bridoon is to touch the corners of the mouth, but low 
 enough not to wrinkle them ; the bit is to be placed in the horse's 
 mouth, so that the mouthpiece be one inch above the lower tusk, and 
 two inches above the corner tooth in mares.' 
 
 " The curb chain should not be put on the same for all horses, some 
 light -mouthed horses being very much irritated by a tight curb, and 
 others requiring a tight one to hold them ; the links of the curb 
 chain should be of a good size, as little narrow ones are more apt to 
 cut the underneath part of the horse's jaw than good sized ones ; 
 and if a horse pulls very hard it is as well to have a piece of leather 
 between his jaws and the chain. It is always as well, when buying 
 a horse, to run your hand under his jaw to feel whether there is a 
 lump there formed by the pressure of the curb-chain ; if there is, 
 you may be pretty sure that he is a hard puller. 
 
110 
 
 '' Dealers generally put long-cheeked bits on their horses when they 
 show them off, as these force them to bend themselves more than 
 light easy bits. They should always be made of steel, and it looks 
 best to have both the reins and headstall stitched on to the bit, and 
 not fastened with buckles." 
 
 BREAKING HOESES. 
 
 A colt, when it is intended to house him, should be gradually 
 brought off grass by shutting him up nightly, but turning out 
 during the day, and by gradually reducing the hours he is allowed 
 to spend out of doors. In taking him from his box to his paddock 
 every day put a snaffle bit into his mouth, when he is permanently 
 located in his stable bit him for an hour a day. Handling is the chief 
 thing to be observed in breaking, as horses are nearly always amen- 
 able to kind and gentle treatment, but generally prove refractory if 
 suddenly bitted and lunged. Corn should be allowed sparingly at 
 first, half a feed twice a day, and this gradually increased in two 
 months to three feeds a day with sufficient hay and six or seven 
 moderate sized carrots. 
 
 CLIPPING REFRACTORY HORSES. 
 
 No. 1. — ^Let the refractory animal be turned in his stall, and attach 
 the pillar reins to his head collar, so that he cannot turn round. Then 
 either clip or singe another horse before him. 
 
 No. 2. — Tie up the foreleg of the horse, it will keep him quiet 
 whilst being clipped. Put a surcingle round him, and run a leather 
 strap attached to the fetlock through the surcingle ; let a groom 
 hold the strap so that if the horse ivill plunge he can slack it, and 
 thus save a fall. 
 
 No. 3. — Take an ordinary corn sack, and cut a small hole in one 
 corner ; put the halter rope through the mouth of the sack and the 
 said hole, then coax the sack over the horse's head and ears, and tie 
 a string round his neck to keep all fast. This will make any horse 
 quite cowed and stupid, and he will not resist anything that gives 
 no actual pain. 
 
 No. 4. — Always begin to clip the horse on the ribs (near side), as 
 being the least sensitive part, and gradually work to the most tick- 
 lish parts, such as the flanks and inside the thighs. If the horse 
 prove troublesome, take up the near fore leg, bring the heel of the 
 foot up close to the arm with the right hand, and steady the horse's 
 head with the left hand. Should this plan not prove successful 
 have recourse to the twitch, which place on the upper lip of the 
 
Ill 
 
 horse sufficiently tight to prevent its coming off. and not too tight to 
 cause unnecessary pain. The assistant then holds the twitch in one 
 hand and the leg in the other, always taking care not to allow the 
 twitch stick to strike against anything, as that will cause great sen- 
 sation to the horse, and probably make him rear and wage war with 
 you. While the twitch is on always be as expert as possible, and 
 finish the flanks and inside the thighs, &c., then at once commence 
 at the head, having first placed a strap two feet in length, with a 
 billet and buckle at each end, round each fetlock ; this will prevent 
 the horse from striking you with either of the fore feet while clip- 
 ping his head. Begin at the cheeks and work gradually towards the 
 ears, w^hich are generally most troublesome to clip ; the assistant 
 then takes hold of the tip of the ear, and pulls it out straight, while 
 you clip it, holding the twitch in the other hand at the same time. 
 Always treat the horse quietly, and in time he will yield when he 
 finds you have no intention to injure him. Care must be taken not 
 to allow the twitch to slip off the lip, as it may cause great trouble 
 to replace it. If the head require to be singed after clipping, do it 
 before removing the twitch. 
 
 FEET, MANAGEMENT OF. 
 
 An able correspondent of the Field thus writes on this important 
 subject. He says : " Sick horses habitually maintain the standing 
 position, and this in itself is injurious to the feet, which require to 
 be carefully watched and frequently examined during the progress 
 of any constitutional disease. If any unusual warmth is detected 
 in the feet of a horse suffering from influenza, or bronchitis, or 
 other disease bordering upon the inflammatory, immediate action 
 must be taken, or an attack of fever in the feet is inevitable. The 
 first thing to do is to remove the shoes and well pare out the soles, 
 after which the feet may be soaked in warm water, and then covered 
 with warm poultices of bran and linseed-meal, and kept moist by 
 being occasionally dipped in warm water. Should this treatment 
 not be found sufiiciently active, bleeding from the toe will be neces- 
 sary ; and the warm applications must be continued. In any case, 
 when a horse has been ill for some time, it is desirable to remove 
 the shoes and well clean out the feet, using tar dressings occa- 
 sionally, and, if necessary, applying wet swabs, at least during the 
 day, when they can be kept wet. When the disease from which 
 the animal suffers is likely to be followed by a long period of con- 
 valescence, it is good practice to remove the shoes altogether after 
 the first fortnight or three we-eks, and allow the horse to ' lie 
 
112 
 
 rough/ taking care that there is a sufficient covering of litter — or 
 what is better, tan — upon the floor of the box, to prevent the hoofs 
 being broken. 
 
 " When the presence of some local affection renders it undesirable 
 to exercise the animal, the feet, again, are likely to suffer from 
 inattention ; and, in addition, it may happen that one foot is com- 
 pelled to support an undue share of the weight of the body, in 
 consequence of the disease in the opposite limb preventing the 
 proper exercise of its function. In this case it becomes necessary 
 to arrange the shoes so as to equalize the pressure as much as 
 possible. This may often be done by putting a high-heeled shoe 
 on the foot of the diseased extremity, while the shoe is either 
 removed from the other foot, or reduced to a mere tip. 
 
 "In cases of disease affecting the feet, very great care in the treat- 
 ment of these organs, irrespective of the medical or surgical means 
 employed, will be called for. Many cases of disease of the foot 
 are incurable, and the horse can only be kept in working condition 
 by means of palliative measures. These principally consist in 
 keeping the feet cool, carefully removing all foreign bodies which 
 might injuriously press upon a tender sole, preserving the pliability 
 of the horn, and adjusting the shoe in such a manner as to afford 
 protection and avoid pressure upon parts which are not capable of 
 supporting it. The most simple plan of keeping the feet cool and 
 moist is by means of wet swabs tied round the coronet. 
 
 " During the time that animals are under treatment for foot-lame- 
 ness, it must be recollected that the hoofs are still growing, and that 
 if left for a long period untouched it will be difficult to get them 
 into proper shape again. Therefore the attention of the farrier 
 should be called to them at least once every month or six weeks, in 
 order that the heels may be lowered and the toes shortened ; other- 
 wise, in consequence of the rapidity of the growth of the horn, the 
 feet will become upright, and the frogs, being removed thus from 
 pressure, and kept in constant contact with the wet manure which 
 accumulates in the feet, will become rotten. The use of tar both 
 to the wall and sole is as necessary while the horse is lying idle as 
 when he is employed in active service ; even when he is turned out 
 to grass the feet require attention, particularly when the ground is 
 soft and wet. The difficulty under such circumstances is to get 
 the hoof to grow in the right direction ; there will be plenty of 
 material formed, but it will require frequent trimming and train- 
 ing or the very luxuriance of the growth will be a source of embar- 
 rassment." 
 
113 
 
 GROOMING, HINTS ON. 
 
 Six in the morning is a proper time to go to stable, and half -past 
 eight in the evening the time of shutting up the stables. 
 
 To feed and water hunters, clean out the stable in the interme- 
 diate time, and perform other routine details preparatory to going 
 out to exercise, will take upwards of an hour ; and for horses going 
 out to do a day's work, fully two hours should be allowed for the pre- 
 paratory process from the time they are first fed. 
 
 Exercise required for hunters consists almost wholly of walking. 
 Two hours" walking is enough for any horse at a time in the way of 
 exercise, in which period the horse will go over nearly nine miles of 
 ground : in the special cases where it is judged that more exercise is 
 required, alter the pace, and give the horses a steady trot for two 
 miles rather than keep them out longer ; and at times during long 
 frosts, when going on a straw bed, it may be more convenient, and 
 better for the horses to divide their exercise, when two and a half to 
 three hours may be apportioned between the morning and afternoon. 
 
 Good feet require but little care beyond proper littering down. 
 Horses should not be allowed to stand on bare bricks, neither should 
 large beds be under them during the dav. In the early morning the 
 bed must be removed, and the floor sprinkled with short litter. Of 
 the two evils, that of standing the fetlock in deep straw is the worst, 
 and should never be permitted, as it induces inflammation of the 
 feet, and often produces thrushes. 
 
 All horses' feet should be regularly washed once a day, whether 
 they go out to work or not, with tepid water : it is very refreshing 
 to them, and insures both cleanliness and a careful inspection of the 
 feet and shoes. There is no harm likely to arise from washing the 
 legs when they are cool, providing they are well dried afterwards. 
 
 On nights previous to horses being shod, especially if they have 
 been standing long in the stall, stop the fore feet with cow dung or wet 
 clay, or a mixture of the two ; but this is to be deprecated as an 
 everyday practice, for it often induces disease which is the fore- 
 runner of thrushes. 
 
 Shoes should never be allowed to remain on more than a month, 
 even if they are not worn out, as loose flakes of sole require removal, 
 and the forward growth of the wall carries the shoe, and with it the 
 foot, out of its proper position in relation to the limb above. 
 
 The Morning's Work. 
 The groom should enter the stable at six a.m., give each horse six 
 or eight swallows of water, then a single handful of hay. 
 
114 
 
 Whilst the horse is discussing this, the dung should be taken up 
 and carried away, and then the clean straw should be carefully picked 
 out and thrown under the manger, removing the wet and dirty litter 
 to the dung-heap. 
 
 Sweep the pavement quite clean ; give each horse three parts of a 
 pail of water (which water should have been left in pails in the stable 
 the previous night, in order that it might acquire the temperature, 
 or nearly so, of the stable) ; shake down a portion of the litter under 
 the horse, and then proceed 
 
 To Dress the Horse. 
 
 Turn the horse round in the stall with a common halter on, well 
 brush his head with the horsebrush, to get all the dust and dirt out ; 
 then well wisp it with a damp wisp, and finish with a rubber. 
 
 Turn the horse back in the stall, replace the head collar, and rack 
 his head up ; take off the clothing, carry it outside the stable and 
 shake all the dust out of it, and then hang it up to air. 
 
 With the horsebrush in the left hand and currycomb in the right, 
 next proceed to give the horse a vigorous brushing, beginning on the 
 near side with the neck, and so on all over him. 
 
 If the horse is sweaty from the previous day's work, the curry- 
 comb must be used to raise the hairs and loosen the dirt in places 
 where the sweat and dirt have matted the hairs together — the 
 principal use of the currycomb being to clean the dust out of the 
 horsebrush, by drawing it backwards and forwards several times 
 every now and then. 
 
 In using the brush, it should be passed across the direction in 
 which the coat lies ; but the last few strokes must be in the same 
 direction as the hair lies, in order to make the coat lie smooth. 
 
 After all the dirt is got out, go over him with a damp wisp, using 
 plenty of elbow grease ; this will remove any dust left by the brush, 
 and will also polish the hairs. 
 
 Finish with a clean rubber ; then put the clothes on, throwing 
 them well forward, and drawing them back into their place^, in the 
 direction in which his coat lies, so as to smooth down every hair. 
 
 With a picker, next remove the dirt out of his feet into the dung- 
 basket, which should be placed under each foot as it is taken up, so 
 that the dirt will fall at once into the basket, thus obviating the 
 necessity of the stall being swept again. 
 
 When all the feet have been picked out, take up the near forefoot, 
 place under it a pail, and with a water-brush wash out each foot in 
 
115 
 
 rotation, the pail catcliing the dirt and water, and so not damping 
 the pavement in the least. 
 
 After this is completed, brush out the mane and tail ; give the 
 horse his morning feed of corn, and unrack his head ; then shake 
 down a thin coat of clean straw all over the stall, squaring it off 
 behind if no plait is used, though a nice plait gives a very neat 
 appearance to a stable. 
 
 If the horse's quarters are wet and stained through lying down on 
 wet litter or dung, the stains must be got out with a damp sponge — 
 not wetting the horse more than is necessary — and brushing out the 
 marks of the sponge when the horse's quarters are dry, as they will 
 be when the groom returns from breakfast, the hour for which will 
 by this time have anived. 
 
 Mid-day Management. 
 
 If the horse is wanted to go out by ten or eleven o'clock, the 
 gi'oom may give him a little hay on his return from breakfast. 
 
 If not ordered mitil two or three o'clock, the horse may have about 
 51b. of hay, then at eleven half a pail of water, at twelve a feed of 
 corn. 
 
 If not wanted at all that day, he must go to exercise, either about 
 ten or else at three o'clock. 
 
 At four he may have 41b. of hay ; and at five as much water as he 
 will drink. 
 
 At six a feed of com should be given, and the remaining allow- 
 ance of hay placed in the rack ; and having had his bed shook up 
 under him, he may then be left for the night. 
 
 If the horse goes to exercise only, he must be stripped and dressed 
 over about four o'clock — that is, whilst he is eating his afternoon 
 allowance of hay. Of course he will require to have his feet washed 
 out on his return from exercise. 
 
 The Return from WorTc. 
 
 If the weather is wet and dirty, the horse should be placed in an 
 empty stall or box (not in the one usually occupied by him), and 
 stripped of harness, saddle, &c. 
 
 With a scraper, remove all the wet and dirt from his belly and 
 legs ; well wisp him with a straw wisp ; pick his feet and wash 
 them clean, throwing a cloth over him whilst the latter operation is 
 going on. 
 
 If his ears are wet or cold, they must be dried with a rubber, and 
 well pulled until quite warm. To do this, the man must stand in 
 
 i2 
 
116 
 
 front of and facing the horse, and, taking an ear in each hand, close 
 to the root of the ear, commence by drawing his right hand down 
 the ear, the same with the left. Whilst the left hand is passing 
 down the ear the right must grasp the other ear, and so on, pulling 
 each ear alternately. 
 
 The horse can then be taken to his own stall, and have four or 
 five swallows of chilled water, and fed. 
 
 When sufficiently dry to enable the man to do so, he must, with 
 a dandy-brush, go over the horse, and remove all dirt which the 
 scraper failed to take off ; after which the horse may be treated 
 according to the routine before stated as to be followed on his return 
 from exercise. 
 
 If the horse comes in at five or six o'clock, this will be all that is 
 necessary to do to him that day ; but should he arrive at home two 
 or three hours earlier, he should when dry get a thorough dressing. 
 
 HORSE ENTER A STABLE, TO MAKE A. 
 
 Take off the bridle and put on a halter whilst outside, and, holding 
 a sieve of corn, let the horse eat a mouthful or two ; then recede 
 gradually into the stable, letting him feed a little at each step ; by 
 patiently pursuing this plan the animal will soon follow quietly into 
 his stall. Force should by no means be attempted, or the fault will 
 be increased. 
 
 A correspondent writes : ''1 have a horse which has this disagree- 
 able habit. There is only one means by which I can induce her to 
 enter or leave her stable, and that is by gently laying hold of her 
 ear. She will then follow me without any further trouble. If this 
 should fail I would recommend a coach-house or barn with a very 
 high door, when after some time he will most probably forget his 
 troublesome trick." 
 
 HORSES SCRAPING THEIR BEDS. 
 
 A plan of preventing horses from scraping the litter from under 
 them with their fore-feet is by the use of hobbles, commonly adopted, 
 especially with young horses, in training stables. They consist of 
 two straps, lined and connected with each other by a chain about 
 fifteen inches long. The straps are buckled round the pasterns, and 
 prevent a horse from pawing the litter with one foot. 
 
 Some say that if you put the horse into a box, of which the floor 
 is laid with asphalte, so as to fall all four ways to the middle where 
 the drain is : he seldom moves the straw. 
 
 Try dry sea-sand. It only requires raking over twice a day, and 
 
117 
 
 the wet taken away, and renewing altogether about once in ten 
 days. Troublesome horses may be kept very much quieter by bed- 
 ding them up with plenty of clean straw every night, which hampers 
 their legs and shackles them as it were, and the straw can be used 
 again in another box. 
 
 HOESE TEAEING OFF HIS SHEETS. 
 
 Drill a hole through a stout piece of ash at each end, fasten one 
 end tight to the roller, and attach a foot of stout leather strap to 
 the other end. This strap fasten to the head collar. 
 
 e:ickixg in the stable. 
 
 If a horse appears to kick in the stable from a merely vicious 
 propensity, tie a truss of straw behind him, suspended from the 
 ceiling by a cord, in order to give it full swing — letting the truss 
 hang in a position where the horse's leg is likely to hit it. The only 
 precaution to be recommended is to put on a pair of knee-caps, as, 
 when struck by the return of the straw, horses are generally so 
 terrified that they spring forwards or upwards, and might injure the 
 knees against the manger. In a stable kept too hot, warm clothing 
 is often a cause of kicking. 
 
 Again, place the horse in a box 12ft. wide, with a double shank to 
 his collar, and two posts, about from four to five feet asunder, fastened 
 well in the ground and to the ceiling, and placed behind the 
 shoulders at either side. The horse can lie down at pleasure, but 
 cannot reach the wall or stall at either side in kicking. 
 
 Or, have a ring in the roller, well fastened on, which will be exactly 
 in the middle when the roller is on the horse ; have a piece of rope 
 (the rope must be just long enough to allow the horse to walk com- 
 fortably) with a shackle at each end ; the rope passes through the 
 ring on the roller and the shackles, one on each hind pastern ; this 
 does not prevent the horse walking, as it simply passes through the 
 ring, but it not only renders it impossible for the horse to kick, but 
 very soon cures the habit. 
 
 Another method is the following : a driving-bit and curb are 
 put on with leather straps running through two loops underneath 
 the roller, and fastened with broad web straps to the fetlocks. They 
 should be worn for a month. The horse can lie down with them, 
 and never requu-e them after. The straps are fastened to the lowest 
 bar of the driving-bit. 
 
 If a loose box does not answer, hobbling the hind legs is the only 
 resource ; sometimes a large bundle of furze on each stall post will 
 
118 
 
 act as a warning to the animal after he has tried one or two expe- 
 riments. This, however, irritates some horses, and makes them 
 worse. 
 
 Put upon them the common hobble used for brood mares. It 
 does not prevent their moving about, or getting up and down ; and 
 if it slips from between the fore-legs, in the horses rolling or other- 
 wise, it does not matter. Prefer padded straps with buckles for 
 that part which goes round the hind fetlocks to slip-knots, as being 
 less likely to chafe the skin ; and it is well to buckle them the first 
 few times alternately above and below the fetlock, to vary the part 
 rubbed. 
 
 A wooden ball suspended to a strap round the leg above the fet- 
 lock will stop almost any horse in consequence of the pain given by 
 the blow on the leg which the loose ball gives. With very inveterate 
 kickers a strap may be buckled round the fetlock and carried through 
 a surcingle up to the head-stall. This soon tires any horse. 
 
 Some advise that bladders should be fastened round the box. 
 
 A few links of a heavy chain, or a ball and short chain buckled 
 above the fetlock, will generally stop horses from kicking in the 
 stable. 
 
 ladies' horses, management of. 
 
 Ladies' horses should be exercised by the groom every day, taking 
 care that he rides with a large plain snaffle, so as not to injure their 
 mouths. They cannot be made to look well without good feeding 
 (say at least three quarterns of oats daily), and if they have this 
 amount of corn they ought to have from two to three hours' walking 
 exercise every day, which is better given on turf to keep their legs 
 and feet fresh. If this time cannot be allowed, they may be steadily 
 trotted for an hour, and walked for half an hour. 
 
 LOOSE BOX, SIZE OF. 
 
 The area of a loose box should not be less for hunters than 120ft., 
 i.e., 13ft. or 14ft. long by 8ft. Gin. to Oft. broad. Of course for a very 
 large horse it should be longer ; for a horse above 16 hands make 
 the length 16ft. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF HORSES. 
 
 The outward signs of health are the following : When the horse 
 eats a moderate allowance of hay and corn with good but not 
 ravenous appetite ; when he drinks a moderate allowance of water ; 
 when his coat lies smooth, and feels soft and smooth to the hand ; 
 and when his exercise does not produce faintness, but rather stimu- 
 lates his appetite. The ventilation of a stable is the most important 
 
119 
 
 point. Feeding is a matter of opinion. Three or four feeds of 
 corn a day, with a few beans, and a moderate allowance of hay, is 
 quite sufficient for a horse doing moderate London work. The usual 
 allowance for a horse is : Corn, 1 peck per day, which makes three or 
 four feeds ; hay, 1-|- trusses a week ; straw, 2 trusses a week ; and 
 a warm bran mash twice a week in the place of a feed of com. 
 Grooming is of the greatest consequence ; for, by removing the dirt 
 from the skin, you allow the animal to perspire freely, thus saving 
 the kidneys from unnecessary labour. Good food, pure air, and 
 cleanliness are the great secrets of health. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF HUNTERS. 
 
 We will first consider the treatment of the horse who has just 
 finished a season's hunting, and is required for gentle hack or draft 
 work through the summer. When his last day's hunting is over 
 prepare him by bran mashes for physic ; put him in a roomy loose 
 box, and give him four or five drachms of aloes, take off his shoes, 
 and give him, when the medicine has acted, two small feeds of com 
 (4lb.), and 81b. of hay a-day ; no exercise. xA.bout the beginning of 
 May, for a fortnight, give him only 41b. of hay, making up the rest 
 with green meat (clover, &c,) 
 
 In the middle of May leave off the green forage, and gradual!}' 
 increase his corn to 101b. and his hay to 121b. by the first week in 
 June, during which time give him gentle walking exercise, gradually 
 increasing from the middle of May to the first week in June to two 
 hours a day, when he will be in a fit condition to do gentle hacking 
 or draft work, which can be gradually increased, and he will be all 
 the better for the six to eight weeks' rest he has had. Whilst 
 in the loose box his feet should be looked to and pared out occasionall3\ 
 and he should have one good grooming a-day. Unless overworked 
 he will derive no harm from being used during the months of July, 
 August, and September. 
 
 On the 1st of October begin to prepare him for the hunting 
 season by (if necessary) giving him four or five doses of aloes, then 
 two to three hours' walking exercise for a week. The second week 
 in October give him one hour's walking, then one hour's gentle 
 trotting, then one hour's walking exercise daily ; by the end of the 
 second week in October his coat will have set ; he may then be 
 singed or cHpped. (Great care should be taken that he should be 
 kept warm, and not subject to sudden chills during the latter part of 
 September and the beginning of October, as his coat is then chang- 
 ing, and it will all depend upon this as to what sort of a winter coat 
 
120 
 
 he will have.) After singeing he should be washed all over with 
 lukewarm water, and well dried ; the next day give him a gentle 
 sweat by trotting him gently for about one hour, with a couple of 
 suits of clothing on, and hoods, &;c. Walk him home, and scrape 
 him ; foment his legs, and put on flannel bandages ; give him some 
 gruel, wisp him dry, put on dry clothing, take the bandages off, and 
 hand-rub his legs ; give him his feed, and leave him for the 
 night. During the third week exercise him the same as the second 
 week, and at the end give him another sweat, but more severe than 
 the last — viz., walk him for a short time, then trot him gently for 
 half an hour, and finish up by a long steady canter about four 
 miles, ending near home ; icalk him in, and treat him as before. 
 During the last week in October he should have a couple of steady 
 four-mile canters, and on the other days walking and trotting exercise 
 about three hours. During October his hay should graduall}'- be 
 reduced to about 81b. a-day, and his corn increased to 141b. a-day ; 
 if necessary, he may be run over with the lamp a few days before 
 the 1st of November, and if of a gross disposition, he may be 
 given one ball a-week of the following alterative medicine during 
 October : Cinnabar of antimony, 3oz. ; balsam of sulphur, 2oz. ; 
 camphor, loz. ; nitre, 4oz. ; to be made into ten balls. Every 
 Saturday night a bran mash should be given, and no beans till the 
 hunting begins on the first of November — by which day, if the above 
 system has been carried out, the horse will be fit to go with any 
 hounds in England. 
 
 Now to the treatment of the hunter during the hunting season. 
 Let him have, if possible, a loose box, with plenty of ventilation, 
 and put on plenty of clothing, with an additional rug during the 
 night. Great care should be taken that the corn, hay, and beans 
 are of the last year's growth till up to the end of the year. His daily 
 allowance (of course liable to alteration in different horses) should 
 be about 131b. of corn, 81b. of hay, and a handful of split beans in 
 each feed, together with a little chaff. 
 
 Some say that white peas are preferable to beans, given in the 
 proportion of one bushel of peas to four of oats, together with a 
 sprinkling of chaff. 
 
 If he is accustomed to have water always kept in his stall, all the 
 better, except on the morning of hunting. Litter should be kept in 
 the stall or box all day, more put down at night, and at morning 
 stables it should be removed, the box well cleaned out, and left 
 clear for two hours. 
 
 The best sort of shoe for hunters is bevelled off on the inner 
 
121 
 
 edge, both in the fore and hind shoes, which will at once prevent 
 overreaching and having the fore shoe torn off ; three nails on the 
 outside, and two on the inside. Care should be taken that the crust 
 only, and not the sole of the foot, presses on the shoe. If the sole 
 of the foot is rather concave, it should be stopped with a mixture of 
 cowdung and clay every other night ; but if flat about three times a 
 fortnight is sufficient. The hoof should be daily moistened with 
 oil, which will keep it from becoming brittle, if it has a tendency 
 that way. 
 
 The hunter should not be singed further down the legs than just 
 above the knee and hock, the long hairs below (if any) may be 
 rubbed out by hand, with the help of powdered resin. The hair 
 affords the shins great protection from blows and scratches. 
 
 The evening before hunting the horse should be given no hay, 
 and after his last feed (which should be a good large one) the 
 muzzle should be put on, to prevent him eating his bed. The first 
 thing next morning (five a.m.) he should have his usual feed — no 
 hay — and about half his usual allowance of water. 
 
 The best pace to the meet is a gentle jog-trot (the pace which 
 hounds go to covert), and the same pace home again, whether the 
 day has been severe or not. 
 
 If the horse has been very much exhausted in the run, some 
 warm beer, wine, or spirits given him immediately will generally 
 recover him ; but if given some time after, when reaction has taken 
 place, it would do him much harm. A gulp of water every now and 
 then on his road home refreshes him much ; with a long journey 
 before you, and half an hour to wait, a little gruel is a good thing. 
 
 •'•' On reaching the stable put him in a spare stall, take the bridle 
 off, let his head be free, loose the girths, and throw the outer one 
 down with the stirrups, leathers, and irons ; put some dry straw on 
 the saddleplace, replace the saddle over it, turn the horse round, 
 and then, with warm water and sponge, wash the horse's mouth and 
 face, and, with soft wisp and dry rubber, make his head clean and 
 comfortable, put him to the manger and give a small portion of 
 hay ; then let the rough dirt and sweat be got quickly off the body, 
 leaving the saddle on, which done, throw a rug loosely over the 
 horse, and wash his legs in a pail of warm water over knees and 
 hocks ; then sponge the sheath and thin skin between his thighs, 
 and let the water be got out of the hair by the use of a chamois 
 leather, and when nearly dry put flannel bandages loosely round the 
 legs. At this stage, which will have taken the groom an hour, the 
 horse may drink about three quarts of warm water-gruel. 
 
122 
 
 " In the mash after hunting some add a quart of malt (bruised) to 
 the usual quantity of bran and oats, or put about three double- 
 handfuls of fresh bran into half a pailful of tepid water, stir it with 
 the hand, and let the horse drink off a portion ; then give a double- 
 handful of oats with a sprinkhng of dry bran and a little hay, and 
 bed the horse up, and leave him for an hour or more ; then return, 
 take off the bandages, dress the horse thoroughly well, and rub his 
 legs. Give more tepid water as before, an average feed of corn and 
 hay, and leave him for the night. 
 
 " The above is not only good practice for hunters, but for tired, 
 hard ridden and driven horses of all classes. 
 
 " Next morning give him q, good grooming — lead him out for about 
 ten minutes to take off any stiffness, and if he has a loose box he 
 won't want any further exercise the day after hunting. On the 
 other non-hunting days, two hours' walking exercise is enough, but 
 the day before hunting, one hour's walking exercise, and a steady 
 three-mile canter, is a good thing. 
 
 " If a good-constitutioned horse, and not overweighted, he should 
 (bar accident)* do his three days a fortnight regularly. No physic, 
 unless absolutely necessary, should be given during the hunting 
 season ; and if a frost sets in, three hours a day walking exercise 
 till the ground gets soft, then a steady canter or two, will prevent 
 him losing much of his condition till the arrival of open weather. 
 
 *' The hunting groom should never neglect the custom of carefully 
 examining the legs and feet of the horses when they have returned 
 home and been dressed, for the purpose of detecting any thorns, 
 stubbs, or overreaches by which they may have suffered ; the parts 
 of the limbs most likely to sustain injury by thorns, and their 
 retention in the skin, are the knee, the front of the pastern or fetlock 
 joint of the fore-limb, and likewise the coronet, where strong thorns 
 and stubbs of wood are sometimes found imbedded in a downward 
 direction, under the upper margin of the hoof. When one of these 
 foreign bodies is discovered, means should be used to get hold of it 
 with a pair of forceps, and endeavours should be made to draw it 
 out whole, failing which, a linseed poultice should be applied around 
 the part, which, in the course of two or three days, generally leads 
 to the expulsion of the thorn along with the purulent secretion set 
 up. Warm fomentations, with flannel bandages dipped in the same, 
 then wrung out, and loosely applied to the horse's legs, form the 
 best remedy, and lead soonest to the perfect healing of these small, 
 though not unfrequently troublesome, wounds." 
 
123 
 
 MASHES FOR HORSES. 
 
 Take a feed of oats, a double handful of linseed for eacli horse, 
 and boil for three hours ; then turn into a large tub or earthenware 
 pan, and add as much bran, with just enough warm water to moisten 
 the whole through ; put a cloth over it, and let it stand an hour, 
 then mix it well, and feed as soon as it is cool enough. This mash is 
 very useful when horses in hard condition •'• dry up " and grow thin 
 in spite of continual feeds of corn. 
 
 PREPARING A HORSE FOR GRASS. 
 
 Gradually cool the stable, or change it for a loose box, remove all 
 clothing, let the scurf and dust accumulate on the coat, give a gentle 
 dose of physic, and take away the corn by degrees. In three weeks 
 the horse will be fit to turn out. 
 
 SHAVING HORSES. 
 
 To shave horses, you should not be sooner or later than the last 
 week of October or the first week of November. The great art of 
 shaving is to get the coat completely wet to the bottom with a good 
 lather of white soap. You make the horse sweat a little, and 
 then commence. Tou cannot shave the head ; you must clip it as 
 well as you can, and clip the legs without a comb ; clip up, not round. 
 When done oil them all over and wipe them with a soft towel, and 
 if they are in good condition there is no danger of their catching 
 cold. Exercise them with the clothes on, and strap them well with 
 a nice leather, and in eight or ten days you may hunt them. When 
 they are shaved, their coat never gets bristly. 
 
 SQUARING horses' TAILS. 
 
 There are two ways of squaring the tail. In either case it should 
 be carefully combed out. Then to proceed to cut it, either take up all 
 the hairs carefully in the hand without disturbing the arrangement, 
 and, squeezing them tightly, cut off all together with a sharp knife ; 
 or, secondly, take a pair of sharp scissors, and, holding the tail to 
 about its natural fall by the aid of the groom's hand under the 
 dock, pass the point of one blade straight back through the middle 
 of the tail, and cut outwards to either side in as few snips as 
 possible. Then reverse the scissors and cut the other half to the 
 same level. 
 
 STABLES. 
 
 Elevated and dry ground, which admits of perfect drainage with 
 most facility, is to be preferred ; and the frontage of stables, as far 
 
124 
 
 as possible, sliould be towards the morning or midday sun. Drain- 
 age and air are as necessary for horses in all stable arrangement, as 
 is anything pertaining to feeding and watering — all, in fact, are 
 essentials. In addition to the opening of windows, which may or 
 may not of themselves be sufficient, a space should be cut out of the 
 panel of each stable door of about a foot in length, and about the same 
 distance from the ground, to be in a horizontal direction, and of 
 about 6in. to 8in. in depth, measuring from above to the line indi- 
 cated. This opening may be closed by a frame of wrought iron, 
 into which some small round rods may be rivetted at about an inch 
 apart. The drainage of stables is best effected from the surface, 
 which, in the stalls and boxes, should be of just sufficient declivity 
 towards a shallow gutter behind the horses for the purpose. The 
 material most adapted for paving stables is brick, or the old Dutch 
 tile made for the purpose. Granite and various descriptions of 
 stone, such as is most conveniently found in various districts also 
 answer the purpose. 
 
 The floor of the stalls should fall from the sides to the centre 
 from which the drainage is carried. The whole range of stalls 
 should face the south or south-west, the doors and windows opening 
 to that aspect. Loose boxes are better than stalls, and should be 
 built thus : Each loose box should not be less than l-ift. high, lift, 
 deep, and 12ft. wide. It is as well not to place any loft over the 
 stables. The ventilation should be perfect, the temperature being 
 51^ in winter and GO*^ in summer. 
 
 STAINING A horse's HOOF DARK. 
 
 Paint it over with a strong solution of nitrate of silver. 
 
 STAINS ON GREY HORSES. 
 
 No. 1. — Rub in some of the blue used by washerwomen in the 
 same sort of bag they use. Allow it to dry, and then wash it off 
 with soap and water. 
 
 No. 2. — First well wash the dirt off, and then apply some pow- 
 dered charcoal with a water-brush, and, when dry, rub it off with a 
 horse-brush. 
 
 No. 3. — Iodide of potash will remove the stains, 
 
 TICKS IN STABLES. 
 
 No. 1. — Dissolve an ounce of corrosive sublimate in spirits of wine, 
 and dilute with two quarts of water — then brush all the timbers, 
 &c., over with this, saturating every chink and crack. 
 
125 
 
 No. 2. — Rub down in a mortar Idr. of corrosive sublimate with 
 ^oz. of sal ammoniac, then add 2 quarts of water, and brush the 
 woodwork over with the solution tw^o or three times till thoroughly 
 saturated. 
 
 BEST BOOKS FOR THE HORSE KEEPER. 
 
 Diseases. 
 
 Veterinary Medicines. By F. Dun. Edinburgh : Sutherland and 
 Knox ; or, London : Simpkin and Marshall. 
 
 A Manual of Pharmacy. By W. T. Morton. London : Longman, 
 Green, Longman, and Co. 
 
 The Illustrated Horse Doctor. By E. Mayhew. London : W. H. 
 Allen and Co., Leadenhall-street. 
 
 Occasional Papers on Veterinary Subjects. By William Dick. Edin- 
 burgh and London : William Blackwood and Sons. 18(19. 
 
 A Compendium of the Veterinary Art. By James White, late 
 Veterinary Surgeon of the 1st or Eoyal Dragoons, Nineteenth 
 Edition, entirely reconstructed, with considerable additions and 
 alterations by W. C. Spooner, M.R.O.V., &;c. London : Long- 
 man and Co. ; Simpkin, xMarshall, and Co. ; Whittaker and Co. ; 
 Houlston and Wright ; and W. Tegg. 
 
 Veterinarian's Vade Mecum. Edinburgh : Sutherland and Knox ; 
 London : Simpkin and Co. 
 
 Blaine's Veterinary Art, By Steele. 
 
 Percivall's Anatomy of the Horse. 
 
 Percivall's Hippopathology. 
 
 Mayhew on the Horse's Mouth. Published by Messrs. Fores, Picca- 
 dilly. 
 
 Food for Horses. 
 
 The Horse, and how to Feed him. By Armitage. 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 
 Horses and Stables. By Col. Fitz-Wygram. 
 
 Darvill on Training the Racehorse. Published by Ridgway, 
 Piccadilly. 
 
 Stewart's Stable Economy. Published by Blackwood and Sons. 
 
 The Horse. Published by the Society for the Diffusion of Know- 
 ledge. 
 
126 
 
 The Horse. By William Youatt. With a Treatise on Draught. A 
 new Edition, revised and enlarged. By E. N. Gabriel, M.R.O.S. 
 and M.R.C.V.S., Secretary to the Royal College of Veterinary 
 Surgeons. London : Longman and Co. 
 
 The Horse and its Rider. Published by Murray, of Albemarle-street, 
 
 Horse Shoeing. By Mr. W. Miles. Published by Longman and Co. 
 
 Breeding of Horses. By Cecil. 
 
 The Horse in the Stable and the Field. London : Routledge and Co. 
 
 Stable Management. 
 
 Proper Condition of Horses. Published by T. 0. Newby. 
 
 The Pocket and the Stud ; or Practical Hints on the Management of 
 
 the Stable. Published by Longman and Co. 
 Knightley's Stable Architecture. Published by Baily Brothers. 
 Young Groom's Guide. London : Sampson, Lowe, and Co. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 ACTION of a horse, to improve ... ... ... ... 88 
 
 Age of a horse, to know ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 88 
 
 Albuminuria ... 3 
 
 Aloes ... ... 3 
 
 Alterative powder ... ... ... ... 3 
 
 Ammonia in stables ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 104 
 
 Amount of food required ... ... 81 
 
 Anatomy of the horse 89 
 
 Apoplexy ... ... ... ... 67 
 
 Arsenicalis, liquor ... 43 
 
 BACKS, sore 61 
 
 Bad feeder ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 3 
 
 Balling with snow, horses feet ... ... ... 95 
 
 Balls, to give ... ... ... ... ... 4 
 
 , tonic ... ... ... ... ... 77 
 
 Barking trees, horses ... ... ... ... 93 
 
 Beds, horses' ... ... ... ... ... 105 
 
 , horses scraping ... ... ... ... ,.. ... 116 
 
 Best books for the horse keeper ... ... 125 
 
 Bicarbonate of potash ... ... 5 
 
 Biniodide of mercury ointment ... ... ... 5 
 
 Biting, crib 22 
 
 Bits and bitting horses 106 
 
 Bits, pickle for ... ... 85 
 
 Bitting and bits 106 
 
 Blacking, harness ... ... ... 83 
 
 Bleeding at the nose ..: ... ... ... ... 5 
 
 Bone, side 58 
 
 Books for the horse keeper ... ... 125 
 
 Boots (hunting) cleaning 96 
 
 Bots 6 
 
 Box (loose), size of 118 
 
 Bran 80 
 
 Breaking horses... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 110 
 
 Brittle hoofs : 6 
 
 Broken knees ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6 
 
 Brood mares and foals ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 9 
 
 Brown harness, cleaning ... ... ... ... ... 82 
 
128 
 
 CALCULUS, intestinal 
 Callous lumps on the limbs 
 Capped bocks ... 
 Carriages, management of 
 
 , motbs in 
 
 Carrots ... 
 
 Carry and fetcb, teacb a borse to 
 
 Cast, getting 
 
 its coat, to make a borse... 
 
 Cayenne pepper... 
 
 Cbaiing 
 
 Cbest founder ... 
 
 Cboking 
 
 Cleaning brown barness 
 
 cords ... 
 
 barness mountings ... 
 
 bunting boots 
 
 pink ... 
 
 saddles 
 
 tops ... 
 
 Clipping refractory borses 
 Clotbing, borse destroying bis... 
 
 Clotbs, motb in 
 
 Coat (bunting) waterproofing... 
 
 , make a borse cast its 
 
 Colic 
 
 Colt, determine beigbt be will attain 
 
 , feeding of... 
 
 Concussions 
 Condition 
 
 Congestion of tbe lungs 
 Contracted feet ... 
 Cords, cleaning ... 
 Corn, Indian 
 
 indicator, to make 
 
 Corns 
 
 Cougb 
 
 Cracked beels ... 
 
 Crib biting 
 
 Curbs 
 
 Cutting ... ... 
 
 DARK, staining boof ... 
 Dead borse, preserving boofs of 
 Defects in tbe borse, examination for 
 Destroying bis clotbing, borse 
 Determine beigbt a colt will attain 
 
 Drench 
 
 Dressing tbe borse 
 
 Dyeing borses ... 
 
129 
 
 E. 
 
 EMBROCATION, mustard ... 47 
 
 Enlarged glands 25 
 
 Enlarged hocks 39 
 
 Enter a stable, to make a horse 116 
 
 Erysipelas ... ... ... 25 
 
 Examination of a horse for defects ... 25 
 
 for soundness ... ... ... ... ... 65 
 
 Extricate horse from fire ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 94 
 
 Eyes, inflamed ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 26 
 
 F. 
 
 FARCY 27 
 
 Fattening horses ... ... ... ... ... 80 
 
 Feeder, bad 3 
 
 Feeding, general ... 81 
 
 of colt 80 
 
 Feet balling with snow, horses ... ... ... ... ... ... 95 
 
 , contracted 18 
 
 , fever in the 29 
 
 , flat 33 
 
 , management of ... Ill 
 
 Fetch and cany, to teach a horse to ... ... 96 
 
 Fever in the feet 29 
 
 , mud ... 46 
 
 Fire, to extricate horse from ... ... ... 94 
 
 Firing 32 
 
 Flat feet 33 
 
 Flies from horses, to keep ... 93 
 
 Foals and brood mares ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 9 
 
 Food, required amount of 81 
 
 Founder, chest ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 14 
 
 Frothing at the mouth... 33 
 
 GASTRITIS 33 
 
 General feeding ... ... ... 81 
 
 Getting cast ... ... ... 33 
 
 Glanders 34 
 
 Glands, enlarged ... ... ... ... ... 25 
 
 Gleet, nasal ... 47 
 
 Grass, preparing a horse for 123 
 
 Grease ... ... 34 
 
 Grey horses, stains on ... ... ... 124 
 
 Gripes 36 
 
 Grooming, hints on ... ... 113 
 
 Growth of hoofs, to promote ... ... ... 40 
 
 mane, to promote ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 44 
 
 H. 
 
 HANGING out the tongue, horse ... ... ... ... 94 
 
 Hardened leather 83 
 
130 
 
 Harness, blacking 
 
 
 . 
 
 83 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 82 
 
 
 »^^ rtti-M-i-T-M i-«» /n1 /-»r» vn *-» rv 
 
 
 . 
 
 83 
 
 
 Heels, cracked 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 Height a colt will attain, to determine 
 
 
 . 
 
 92 
 
 Hernia 
 
 
 . 
 
 36 
 
 Hidebound 
 
 
 
 39 
 
 Hints on grooming 
 
 
 . 
 
 113 
 
 Hocks, capped 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 , enlarged 
 
 
 . 
 
 ... 40 
 
 Hoofs, brittle 
 
 
 . 
 
 G 
 
 of a dead horse, preserving 
 
 
 . 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 , staining dark 
 
 
 . 
 
 124 
 
 Hunting boots, cleaning 
 
 
 . 
 
 96 
 
 coats, waterproofing ... 
 
 
 
 96 
 
 Hunters, management of 
 
 
 . 
 
 119 
 
 I. 
 IMPROVE the action of a horse 
 
 88 
 
 Indian corn 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 Indicator, corn, to make 
 
 
 . 
 
 92 
 
 Inflamed eyes 
 
 
 . 
 
 26 
 
 Influenza 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 Intestinal calculus 
 
 
 . 
 
 42 
 
 Iodide of iron 
 
 
 . 
 
 42 
 
 Iodine ointment 
 
 
 . 
 
 42 
 
 Iron, iodide 
 
 
 . 
 
 42 
 
 J. 
 JIBBING horses 97 
 
 K. 
 
 KICKING in the stable 117 
 
 Knees, broken 6 
 
 Know the age of a horse ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 88 
 
 Kjiuckling over 42 
 
 L. 
 
 LADIES' horses, management 
 
 118 
 
 Lameness, navicular 
 
 
 . 
 
 47 
 
 Laminitis 
 
 
 . 
 
 29 
 
 Lampas ... 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 Leaning away from the polo, horse .. 
 
 
 . 
 
 95 
 
 Leaping, teach a horse .. 
 
 
 . 
 
 98 
 
 Leather, hardened 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 Legs, swelled 
 
 
 . 
 
 72 
 
 Lice in horses ... 
 
 
 
 43 
 
 Limbs, callous lumps on the 
 
 
 .. 
 
 12 
 
 Liquor arsenicalis 
 
 
 .. 
 
 43 
 
 Loose box, size of 
 
 
 
 118 
 
 Looseness 
 
 
 . 
 
 43 
 
131 
 
 Lotions .. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 43 
 
 Lumps (callous) on the limbs ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 12 
 
 Lungs, congestion of the ... ... ... ... ... 17 
 
 M. 
 
 MAGNESIA, sulphate of 72 
 
 Management of carriages ... ... 1 
 
 feet Ill 
 
 • horses ... 119 
 
 hunters 119 
 
 horses, ladies' 118 
 
 Mane and tail, rubbing... ... ... 54 
 
 , to make grow ... ... 44 
 
 Mange 44 
 
 Mares (brood) and foals ... ... •• 9 
 
 Mashes for horses ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 123 
 
 Medicated provender 82 
 
 Megrims 46 
 
 Mercury (biniodide) ointment ... 5 
 
 Mid-day management of the horse ... ... ... ... ... ... 115 
 
 Morning work for grooms ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Hi^ 
 
 Moths in carriages ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 3 
 
 in cloths ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 85 
 
 Mountings (harness) cleaning ... ... 83 
 
 Mouth, foaming at the ... ... 33 
 
 Mud fever 4G 
 
 Mustard embrocation 47 
 
 N. 
 
 NASAL gleet 47 
 
 Navicular lameness ... ... ... ... ... ... ... -.• 47 
 
 Nose, bleeding at the ... .., •• 5 
 
 0. 
 
 OILING 85 
 
 Ointment, biniodide of mercury ... ... ... 5 
 
 , iodine ... 42 
 
 Overreach .•• 50 
 
 P. 
 
 PEPPER, Cayenne ... 13 
 
 Pickle for bits 85 
 
 Pink, cleaning ... 100 
 
 Points of the horse 92 
 
 Pole, horse leaning away from the ... ... ... ... ... ... 95 
 
 Potash, bicarbonate ... ••• ... 5 
 
 Powder, alterative 3 
 
 Preparing a horse for grass .. 123 
 
 Preserving hoofs of a dead horse ... 100 
 
 saddles ... ... ... ••• 85 
 
 Prick 50 
 
 Profuse staling ... ... ... ... ... ... ••• ••• ••• 51 
 
 K 2 
 
132 
 
 Provender, medicated 82 
 
 Pulling horses ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 100 
 
 Purgative, a ... ... ... 51 
 
 QUITTOR 
 
 REARING horse, a 86 
 
 Rearing horses ... ... ... ... ... ... 101 
 
 Refractory horses, clipping ... ... ... ... ... 110 
 
 Restive horses, shoeing ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 104 
 
 Return of horse from work 115 
 
 Rheumatism ... 52 
 
 Ringbone ... ... ... ... ... ... 52 
 
 Ringworm ... ... ... ... ... 53 
 
 Roaring and whistling ... ... 53 
 
 Rubbing mane and tail... ... ... ... ... 54 
 
 SANDCRACK 55 
 
 Saddles, cleaning ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 83 
 
 , preserving ... ... ... ... .... .. ... ... 85 
 
 , spots in ... ... ... ... ... ... 86 
 
 , staining ... ... ... ... ... 86 
 
 Scouring... ... ... ... 57 
 
 Scraping their beds, horses ... ... ... 116 
 
 Seedy toe 57 
 
 Shaving horses ... ... ... ... ... 123 
 
 Sheets, horse tearing his ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 117 
 
 Shoeing horses ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 102 
 
 Shoulder, tender ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 74 
 
 Side bone ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 58 
 
 Size of loose box... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. ... 118 
 
 Skin disease.-, surfeit, &c. ... ... ... ... ... 59 
 
 Snow, horses' feet balling with ... ... ... .. 95 
 
 Sore backs ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 61 
 
 Soundness, examination of a horse for ... ... ... ... ... 65 
 
 Spavin 6G 
 
 Splenic apoplexy ... ... ... ... ... 67 
 
 Splints ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 67 
 
 Spots in saddles... ... ... ... '... ... ... 86 
 
 Sprains ... ... ... ... .. ... ... ... ... ... 69 
 
 Stables 123 
 
 , ammonia in ... ... ... ... ... 104 
 
 -, making a horse enter ... ... ... ... ... 116 
 
 -, ticks in ... ... ... ... 124 
 
 Staggers 70 
 
 Staining horses' hoofs dark ... ... ... ... ... . ... 124 
 
 saddles... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 86 
 
 Stains on grey horses ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 124 
 
 Staling, profuse ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. ... 51 
 
133 
 
 Strangles... 
 
 .. 
 
 72 
 
 Sulphate of magnesia ... 
 
 .. 
 
 72 
 
 Surfeit, skin diseases ... 
 
 ., 
 
 59 
 
 Squaring horse's tail 
 
 .. 
 
 123 
 
 Swelled legs 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 TAIL and mane, rubbing 
 
 T. 
 
 54 
 
 Tails, squaring horses' ... 
 
 
 123 
 
 Tan beds 
 
 
 106 
 
 Tares or vetches 
 
 
 82 
 
 Tar water, to make 
 
 
 74 
 
 Teach a horse leaping 
 
 
 98 
 
 to fetch and carry- 
 
 
 96 
 
 Tearing off his sheets, horse ... 
 
 
 117 
 
 Tender shoulder 
 
 
 74 
 
 Thick wind 
 
 
 74 
 
 Thorough pin 
 
 
 75 
 
 Thrush 
 
 
 76 
 
 Ticks in stables 
 
 
 124 
 
 Toe, seedy 
 
 
 57 
 
 Tongue, horse hanging out the 
 
 
 94 
 
 Tonic ball 
 
 
 77 
 
 Tops, cleaning 
 
 
 104 
 
 Trees, horses barking ... 
 
 
 93 
 
 Tumour 
 
 V. 
 
 77 
 
 VETCHES or tares 
 
 W. 
 
 82 
 
 WARBLE 
 
 .. 
 
 77 
 
 Warts 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 Waterproofing hunting coats ... 
 
 ... 
 
 96 
 
 Water, tar, to make 
 
 .. 
 
 74 
 
 Whistling and roaring ... 
 
 .. 
 
 53 
 
 Windgalls 
 
 
 78 
 
 Wind, thick 
 
 .. 
 
 74 
 
 Worms 
 
 .. 
 
 78 
 
PRINTED BY HORACE COX, STRAND, LONDON, W C. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 SPECIALITIES IN WATERPROOFS, 
 
 YENTILATING WATERPROOF COATS. 
 
 HUNTING OR RIDING COATS, 
 
 COMBINING COAT AND LEGGINGS IN ONE GARMENT. 
 
 FISHING STOCKINGS. 
 
 FJSHliG TPiOUSEKS, FiSMlMfi COATS, 
 
 FISHING BROGrES. 
 DRIVING APRONS. 
 
 WATERPROOFS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 
 
 WOOLGAR & CO., 
 
 43, LUDGATE HILL. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 J. J. THOMAS & CO/S, 
 
 IMPIiOVED ^WIIiE ISTETTHSTG-. 
 
 gajLVawised aftek made. 
 
 REDUCED 
 
 PRICES. 
 
 MAY, 
 
 1871. 
 
 PHICES— Per Lineal Yard 24 inches wide. 
 
 Size of 
 mesh. 
 
 Mostly used for 
 
 Light Medium. 
 
 No. 19 1 No. 18 
 
 Wire Gauge, Wire Gauge. 
 
 Strong. Extra Strong. 
 No. 17 1 No. 16 
 Wire Gauge. Wire Gauge. 
 
 Inches. 
 2 
 If 
 
 Dogs or Poultry 
 
 Rabbits Hares &c 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 4 i 5 
 
 5. d ' s. d 
 5f ' 7h 
 
 
 4f 
 9 
 No. 20 
 Wire Gauge. 
 
 1 OA 
 
 No. 22 
 Wire Gauge. 
 
 1 8 
 
 2 3 
 
 1 f 
 
 , ? 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 Pheasantries 
 
 1 8 
 
 f 
 
 3 
 
 Window Guards 
 
 Aviflrip«! 
 
 No. 19 1 No. 18 
 
 Wire Gauge. Wire Gauge. 
 
 1 2^ 1 15 
 
 No. 20 ! No. 19 
 Wire Gauge. Wire Gauge. 
 
 1 10 1 2 
 
 2 5 
 
 
 1 
 
 Aviaries 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Any widths are simply charged at proportionate prices. Thus, if Netting 24 inches 
 wide is 6d. per yard, 12 inches will be 3d, 18 inches 4icZ., 30 inches l^d., 36 inches 9d., and 
 so on in proportion. . ^ . ^ ,. ^ .» 
 
 Every description of Netting warranted to give satisfaction, and exchanged if not 
 approved. ■ . . , 
 
 The Netting is kept in rolls of 50 yards each, but can be sent out m any required 
 lengths. Quantities of 100 yards or upwards delivered free at nearly all the principal 
 railway stations and shipping ports in England. The necessary quantity ot staples or 
 tying wire to fix the Netting sent if required. 
 
 MACHINE-MADE WIEE STAPLES, for fixing wire netting to wood posts, 6d and 
 8d per gross. 
 
 TYING WIRE, Sd. per lb., for attaching Netting to Iron Fencing, or to horizontal 
 strained wires, fixed to wood posts nine feet apart, the best way of fixing permanent 
 
 No! 4 BLACK ANNEALED FENCING WIRE, for straining, and being stapled to 
 wood posts, to attach netting to, 7s. Gd. per 100 yards. No. 4 is the strongest description 
 usually ordered. „ , »-r .. , ■, . 
 
 The Horizontal Wires should be fixed top and bottom of the Nettmg, thus rendering 
 it more durable, and adding considerably to its appearance, at a very small additional 
 outlay. Strong Staples for fixing the Horizontal Wires to wood posts, 2s. per gross ; 
 Galvanised ditto, 3s. 
 
 THE NEW GALVANISED SEED AND PEA PKOTECTORS. 
 
 9s. per Dozen. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 J. J. THOMAS & Co.'s 
 
 NEW AND IMPROVED AVIARIES, 
 
 SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOK THE DEAWING-EOOM. 
 
 These Aviaries are a great improvement upon those usually made, l>^ing so constructed 
 that the seed, gravel, &c., is entirely confined within the Aviary. Plates of clear glass, 
 three inches deep, are fitted above the mahogany to the front and back, easily taken out 
 for cleaning ; the feeding boxes at the ends are so arranged that it is impossible for the 
 birds to throw out their seeds or water. These improvements will be found a great 
 acquisition where birds are kept in the Drawing-room. 
 
 The Aviaries are made of the best well-seasoned Mahogany. French polished, and 
 Brass or Tinned Wire. They have two loose divisions, dividing the Aviary into three 
 separate compartments, the divisions can be easily withdrawn, to form one long Aviary if 
 desired. 
 
 SIZES AND PRICES OF AVIARIES. 
 
 No. 22. 
 „ 2.3. 
 „ 24. 
 
 Length, 
 ft. in. 
 .3 
 o 6 
 4 
 
 Width, 
 ft, in. 
 1 4 
 1 6 
 1 8 
 
 Height, 
 ft. in 
 3 3 
 
 3 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 Brass Wire. 
 £ s. d. 
 y -5 
 6 15 
 9 
 
 Tinned 
 Wire. 
 £ s. d. 
 4 6 
 .5 12 
 7 15 
 
 SUPERIOR MAHOGANY TABLES, 
 
 Extra strong, with drawers divided into compartments, to contain gravel, five different 
 kinds of seeds, perch scraper, &c., so that all requisites for the Aviary can be always 
 at hand. 
 
 £ s. 
 
 ^ 1 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 
 :j 
 
 
 
 3 10 
 
 
 
 For No. 25 Aviary 
 2G ditto 
 
 For No. 22 Aviary 
 
 23 ditto 
 
 „ 24 ditto 
 
 BIRD BATHS with "WTiite Enamelled Pans. 
 
 For Nos. 22 and 23 Aviaries, P>s. each. | For Xo. 24 Aviary, Is. Gd. each. 
 
 £ s. (/. 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 J. J. THOMAS & CO. 
 
 PADDINGTON WIRE WOUKS, 
 
 285 AND 3G2, EDGWASE EOAD, LOXDOX, W. 
 
 Illustrated and Priced Catalogues of Aviaries, Bird Cages, Garden Arches, Wire Fencing, 
 Cattle Hurdles, Wire Netting, and every description of Wire-work, plain and ornamental. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 HEALTH OF HOUSES. 
 
 STABLES AND DOG KENNELS. 
 
 MASTERS OF HOUNDS. 
 
 Will find the greatest advantage in paving the floors of stables and kennels with 
 
 PYRIMONT SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 
 Thirty years' experience of the durability of this material, for the above and 
 many other purposes, testifies to its value. 
 
 RACaUET COURT and BOWLING ALLEY FLOORS perfect 
 if you use 
 
 "PYRIMONT" SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 DAMP WALLS, FLOORS, and ROOFS, prevented by using 
 
 "PYRIMONT" SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 VERMIN.— Their ravages prevented by using 
 
 "PYRIMONT" SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 STORES superior to any if you use 
 
 "PYRIMONT" SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 PAVEMENTS— to any shape and any purpose in 
 
 "PYRIMONT" SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 MILLS— FACTORIES— watertight, if you use 
 
 "PYRIMONT" SEYSSEL ASPHALTE. 
 
 Garden Walks and Houses, 
 
 Lavatories, 
 
 Abattoirs and Markets, 
 
 Landing Piers, 
 
 Railway and Steam Boat Stations, 
 
 Barracks— Cavalry and Infantry, 
 
 and every v^ork where wet walls are to be provided against, and floors and 
 roofs executed. Vermin of every description excluded, and the highest sani- 
 tary status attained. 
 
 Orders must describe the class of work for which the material is wanted, 
 and the superficial area in each class of work, that the shipment may embrace 
 the proper qualities and quantities. 
 
 Specimens of works, with full instructions for the application of the " Pyri- 
 mont " Seyssel Asphalte, are sent with every shipment. 
 
 All Blocks of Asphalte shipped by this Company are impressed on two opposite 
 sides with the words 
 
 Dry and healthy, 
 
 PYRIMONT 
 SEYSSEL. 
 
 5, Parliament-street, London. J. FARREL, Secretary. 
 
 WORKS— Cubitt- town, E. 
 
 A LIST of WORKS to which the PYRIMONT ASPHALTE has been 
 successfully applied since 1838 will be forwarded on application. 
 
ADVERTISEMEXTS. 
 
 THE WATERLEY HTDEOPATHIC INSTITUTION, 
 
 MELROSE, 
 
 NOW BEING ERECTED IN CONCRETE. 
 
 Attention is also desired to a large villa residence at Chertsey (the largest 
 dwelling-house yet built in concrete) ; to a chapel at \Yesthoughton, Lanca- 
 shire ; to a pair of agricultural cottages, containing twelve rooms, built for 
 Sir Arthur Hazlerig, by Drake Brothers and Reid, complete for £175 ; and to 
 numerous houses, cottages, stable, and farm buildings built with " Drake's 
 Patent" in all parts of the kingdom. 
 
 For AGRICULTURAL and STABLE BUILDINGS, at once the cheapest 
 and best material is Portland Cement Concrete, being from 30 to 50 per cent, 
 cheaper than any other walls, stronger and more durable, and perfectly damp- 
 proof, vermin-proof, and fire-proof. 
 
 TESTIMONIAL. 
 
 Steeple Lan^cford. Wilts, July 5. 1869. 
 Dear Sirs,— I am glad to be able to state that your apparatus for building concrete walls, 
 used on Lord Ashburton's estate in Wiltshire, gives every satisfaction. 
 
 The concrete walls built with it are undoubtedly much stronger, cheaper, and more 
 quickly built than with brick. 
 
 It is now being used for some extensive farm buildings, for which purpose it seems 
 specially adapted. The cost as compared with brickwork, averages less than half. 
 
 Yours obediently, The Clerk of the Works. 
 
 Messrs. Drake Brothers and Reid, London. 
 
 The most eflBcient and economical machines for concrete building are 
 DRAKE'S PATENT "CONCRETE BUILDER," 
 DRAKE'S PATENT CONCRETE MIXER, 
 
 AND 
 
 DRAKE'S PATENT STONE BREAKER. 
 
 Particulars free on application to 
 
 DRAKE BROTHEES & REID, 
 CONCRETE MACHI NISTS AND BUILDERS, 
 
 208, NEW KENT ROAD, LONDON. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 HTJI^TIIN'Q^. 
 
 P 
 
 DEOPERT'S PASTE for Cleaning Leather, Cloth, and Cord 
 J- Hunting Breeclies, Gloves, Belts, &c,, beautifies and softens 
 
 the leather. 
 
 TEAVELLING BOXES complete, containing four jars of Paste, 
 two Brushes and two Sponges, price 1/. 
 
 PROPEET'S BOOT-TOP POWDER, with recent improvements. 
 White, Pink Straw, various shades in Brown, &c. 
 
 pEOPEET'S BEOWN BOOT-TOP FLUID, in three shades— 
 i Light, Nut, and Mahogany — rich, clear colours. 2s. per 
 
 bottle. 
 
 pEOPEET'S POLISHING CEEAM for Boot-tops, Saddles, Brown 
 J- Harness, &c.. Is. 6d. 
 
 pOUNT D'OESAY'S UNIQUE WATEEPEOOF POLISH for 
 
 v-^ Hunting Boots, Carriage Heads, Gig Aprons, &c. 
 
 PROPERT, Sole Agent. 
 
 EOPEET'S IMPEOVED HAENESS COMPOSITION, prepared 
 
 on a new principle, is peculiarly nourishing to the Leather. 
 It will not clog the stitches or the brush, produces a 
 splendid polish, and is thoroughly waterproof. 
 
 pEOPEET'S WATEEPEOOF HAENESS BLACKING, being a 
 
 -L liquid, combines a permanent dye with a brilliant polish, 
 
 and is the best renovator for worn Harness ever discovered, 
 rendering the leather supple and impervious to wet. 
 
 pEOPEET'S NON-MEECUEIAL PLATE POWDEE is unrivalled 
 1 for its high polishing properties and purity. Eminently 
 
 adapted for Plated Goods. 
 
 pEOPEET'S CLOTH BALL for DEY CLEANING Scarlet, 
 
 J- White, and Hght Coloured Cloth, Kerseys, Tweeds, Military 
 
 Facings, &c., extracts grease stains, &c, 
 
 pEOPEET'S CELEBEATED FEENCH VAENISH for Dress 
 -L Boots is very bright and elastic, yet not sticky. No 
 
 unpleasant odour. 
 
 pEOPEET'S STANDAED BLACKING is unsurpassed for its 
 J- softening and preserving qualities, and briUiant lasting 
 
 polish. 
 
 pEOPEET'S WATEEPEOOFING COMPOUND for Shooting and 
 -L Fishing Boots, resists all damp from wet grass, snow, &c. 
 
 MANUFACTORY, 22, SOUTH AUDLEY-STREET. 
 GROSYENOE-SQUAEE, LONDON. 
 
 Descriptive Lists, icith Prices, sent free hy post. 
 
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