PROF. WILLIAMS 
 
 NEW SYSX 
 
 [SHi 
 
rr-^ 
 
 
 JOHNA.SEAVERNS 
 
9090 014 558 791 
 
 Websler family U>rary of Vetednary M€Kik^ 
 
 CmmninQs Schoof of Veterinary Medicine at 
 
 Tufts University 
 
 200 Westboro Road 
 
 North Grafton, MA 01536 
 
ITEW SYSTEM 
 
 OF 
 
 HANDLING AND EDUCATING THE HORSE, 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 
 By C. H. C. WILLIAAIS. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 A. TREATISE ON SHOEING; EDUCATING CATTLE AND DOGS, 
 
 WITH HINTS ON STABLE MANAGEMENT J WITH 
 
 THE RULES AND REGULATIONS OF 
 
 TROTTING, RACING AND 
 
 BETTING. 
 
 CLAREMONT, N. H.: 
 
 CLAUEMONT MANUFACTURING COMPANY, FRINTEUS. 
 
 1878. 
 
■+& 
 
NAMES AND SITUATIONS OF THE EXTERNAL 
 PARTS OF THE HORSE. 
 
 1. Muscles. 
 
 2. Face. 
 
 3. Forehead. 
 
 4. Poll. 
 
 5. Crest. 
 
 6. Withers. 
 
 7. Back. 
 
 8. Loins. 
 
 9. Hip. 
 10. Croup. 
 IL Dock. 
 
 12. Quarters. 
 
 13. Thigh. 
 
 14. Hamstring. 
 
 15. Hock. 
 
 16. Cannon. 
 
 17. Fetlock. 
 
 18. Large Pastern. 
 
 19. Small Pastern. 
 
 20. Hoof. 
 
 21. Sheath. 
 
 22. Flank. 
 
 23. Belly. 
 
 24. Stifle. 
 
 25. Coronet. 
 
 26. Girth. i 
 
 27. Elbow. I 
 
 28. Arm. 
 
 29. Heel. 
 
 30. Small Pastern. 
 
 31. Large Pastern. 
 
 32. Fetlock. 
 
 33. Cannon or Shank. 
 31. Knee. 
 
 35. Forearm. 
 
 36. Breast. 
 
 37. Point. 
 
 38. Shoulder. 
 
 39. Windpipe. 
 30. Gullet. 
 
 41. Neck. 
 
 42. Jowl. 
 
HISTORY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 CELEBRATED HORSES 
 
 TRAINED AND EXHIBITED BY 
 
 ' 0. H. O. WILLIAMS. 
 
 MORGAN TIGER. 
 
 This famous horse was bred by Lafayette Knapp, Mid- 
 dlesex, Vt.; is a beautiful bay, with black mane and tail, 
 one hind foot white; weighs 1050 pounds; is eight years 
 old. and in style and action is unsurpassed. 
 
 He was sired by the " Old Flying Morgan," and in speed 
 and endurance is fully his equal in his best days. 
 
 His dam was a full blooded " Justin Morgan." 
 
 Previous to my purchasing this horse, he had been under 
 training by the "Rockwell System," which failing, he was 
 left more vicious and unmanageable than before. (He 
 was a sullen, bolting, plunging, runaway horse, and had be- 
 come perfectly unmanageable by Mr. Lamson, of whom I 
 purchased him.) In ten days after applying my system, 
 he became perfectly tractable, and was successfully ex- 
 hibited in Wentworth, N. H., as a "Trick Horse," and 
 driven through the streets without reins^ by Professor Wil- 
 liams. He has been on constant exhibition for a little 
 more than two years, and is judged to be the most thor- 
 oughly trained horse in America. 
 
6 THE HORSE OWNER'S 
 
 GENERAL MAC. 
 
 This horse was raised b}' Wm. D. Huntly, at Mexico, 
 Oswego, Co., N. Y., and is eight years old. 
 
 He exhibits the most perfect characteristics of a full- 
 blooded 3Iorgan horse we have ever seen; is a blood- 
 bay, with black mane and tail. His mane is very heavy 
 and fine, measuring three feet and six mches in length. 
 
 This was a very luicked runaway horse, and perfectly 
 ungovernable in harness. He is now under training, to 
 be driven clouhle with "Morgan Tiger," without reins, 
 and is making rapid progress. After one week's training 
 he made a graceful appearance in the streets of Bradford, 
 Vt., driven by Prof. Williams, without reins, amid the 
 cheers of the throng who had gathered to witness the feat. 
 
 Gen. Mac. and Morgan Tiger, (driven together without 
 reins), for beauty, agility and perfect obedience to the re- 
 quirements of their driver, when on exhibition, passing 
 through crowded streets, avoiding vehicles and obstacles 
 of every kind, stand unrivaled by any effort of the kind 
 on record. 
 
 AMERICAN HUNTER. 
 
 I purchased this horse of the administrators of the es- 
 tate of the late Jesse Johnson, Esq., of Fairlee, Vt. He 
 was sired by a thorough-bred horse called " Hunter", im- 
 ported by R. and J. Johnson, of Bradford, Vt.; dam a 
 Sherman Morgan. He is a beautiful dark bay, with 
 black points, 15^ hands high, and weighs 1,150 lbs.; age 
 12 years last June, and was considered a very wicked and 
 dangerous horse when purchased. 
 
 He received his first lesson from me at Gilbertsville, Ot- 
 sego county, N. Y., May 7th, 1867, but owing l^o other 
 engagements, he received no more lessons until May IGtli 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 7 
 
 of the same year at Bridgewater, Oneida county, N. Y. I 
 then commenced his instruction, giving him a lesson every 
 day until the 4th of June. I then gave an exhibition 
 at Leonardsville, Madison county, N. Y.; driving him 
 without rein, and turning him loose in the streets as a trick 
 horse, controling him entirely by whip and word of com- 
 mand. 
 
 He has been on exhibition ever since that time, and 
 taking into consideration his willful and stubborn dispo- 
 sition, I consider him one of the best and most tractable 
 horses on exhibition. 
 
 £^^ "On the 3d day of April, 1865, we commenced 
 training a wild and nervous Black Hawk horse for Messrs. 
 Williams <k Wilder, who were at that time receivina in- 
 structions from us, preparatory to giving instructions 
 themselves. In about six days we delivered them the 
 horse, and on the following week they gave a successful 
 exhibition at Whitingham, Vt. They continued to give 
 successful performances for some months, when, through 
 entire carelessness on the part of the driver, the horse 
 was severely injured by the breaking of a vehicle, and has 
 not since been exhibited. We are informed that each of 
 these gentlemen have a horse which they are driving with- 
 out reins, broken according to our directions." 
 
 I am surprised to see the above fabrication published 
 by Messrs. Eockwell & Hurlbut. Any man who gives 
 his time and energy to the self-sacrificing business of teach- 
 ing rational horsemanship, should be a man entitled to 
 the respect of an intelligent people ; but when, from j'eal- 
 ousy or malice, he becomes thus reckless of truth and 
 honor, he relinquishes his manhood, and becomes an object 
 of mere disgust and detestation. 
 
8 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 We say " God speed " to every man who is laboring to 
 increase the usefulness and value of that noble animal, 
 the Horse. 
 
 But to the facts : I had been teaching Horsemanship 
 for several years, successfully, previous to the 3d day 
 of April 1863, and previous to my ever having seen Mr. 
 Rockwell, or to his ever having adopted the profession of 
 horsemanship. The horse. Black Hawk Tiger, was neither 
 trained nor ever driven, nor even seen by Mr. Rockwell, 
 either then, previous or subsequent to that time, to my 
 knowledge ; but was trained and is still owned by me, 
 and is the same proud-spirited animal, (and driven with- 
 out reins at my pleasure,) whose reputation excited Mr. 
 Rockwell to issue the above base fabrications. 
 
 The "injury" spoken of was occasioned by the break- 
 ing of the shafts of the wagon in which he was being 
 driven, in making a short turn, thus freeing himself from 
 the wagon, and for a moment, losing sight of his driver ; 
 but, upon the signal, he immediately returned, with the 
 splintered shafts dangling about his legs, and, in doing so, 
 he got a splinter in his foot, and for three weeks was not 
 exhibited ; but after that was exhibited daily until my fa- 
 mous horse, Morgan Tiger, was put upon exhibition. 
 
 THE FIRST STEP TO BE TAKEIT WITH A 
 WILD COLT. 
 
 Get your colt into some enclosure — small barn-yard or 
 barn-lioor. This is the colt's first idea of confinement. 
 See that everything is so arranged that it cannot jump 
 over, nor get under ; also have the enclosure so an anged 
 that it cannot injure itself by running against anything. 
 
 Everything is now ready for the colt to receive its first 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. » 
 
 lesson ;' and Low is this to be accomplished ? Some indi- 
 viduals, unacquainted with this system, would say that 
 the plan here adopted, would so frighten a wild colt, that 
 it would prove a failure ; but it is quite the reverse, for 
 years of experience has taught us to believe that it is 
 natural for all animals on the face of this broad earth, to 
 do whatever will add to their pleasure, and enable them 
 to shun pain. Prepare yourself with a good spring-top 
 whip, step into the enclosure, all is now safe ; you alone 
 with your colt, with nothing to attract his attention but 
 yourself. You have your whip in your hand ; now re- 
 member that the whip is a very good thing in its place, 
 but I am sorry to say that it often gets out of place. Do 
 not use your whip to hurt the colt, but to get his attention. 
 Stand quietly for a few moments and then give your 
 whip a sharp crack, and he will eye you closely ; now 
 gently approach him, looking him fully in the eye ; if he 
 attempts to turn to ran from you, give him a sharp crack 
 with your whip around the hind legs and under the flank. 
 Never strike him forward of the quarters, and if possible, 
 avoid striking him while he is looking at you. After 
 applying your whip in this way until he will stand quiet 
 with his head towards you, take your whip in your left 
 hand, holding out your right, and gently approach him 
 saying, Ho! boy; but in approaching him, if he should 
 turn and run from you, apply the whip smartly to his 
 hind legs. In a very few moments he does not turn his 
 quarters towards you, bat will stand and face you, and 
 allow you to place your hand upon his neck, pat and 
 caress him. In so doing, you gain his confidence, and 
 awaken two qualities of his nature, fear and love ; he 
 loves to be with you, and he fears to leave you. When he 
 
10 THE HORSE OWNEK's 
 
 comes to yon, he comes for protection ; if he attempts to 
 leave yon he is sure to get into trouble. 
 
 In a very few moments he will allow you to handle him, 
 all around his head and neck, and follow yon like a pet 
 dog. This exercise was fully illustrated by J. Smith, of 
 Virginia, which is thus described by S. W. Coles. 
 
 " A wild and vicious mare was brought to him, which 
 it was said he could not manage unless he dealt with the 
 devil, for she was a wild thorough-bred mare, high 
 tempered, and disposed to kick and bite. She was driven 
 into the barn ; he entered and fastened the door. Before 
 she had time to survey him, he was giving her the lash 
 smartly. Around she went, kicking and jumping, no 
 rest, the sweat flowed, and she slackened in her move- 
 ments. When she approached him he ceased whipping, 
 and held out his hand and said, come along ! Again 
 she was off, and the whip was applied. This was re- 
 peated several times before she would advance ; when 
 she moved towards him, he approached and patted her, 
 and as he moved away and said, come along, she fol- 
 lowed ; in a moment she darted off, he applied the whip 
 smartly, she stopped, trembled and approached him, he 
 patted her neck and said, come along! and she followed 
 him several times around the barn; when she lagged he 
 was away and the whip applied ; after that she would not 
 remain two feet from him. He ordered the door opened, 
 and the mare followed close to him through the crowd 
 and back to the stable." This shows and proves clearly 
 the first step, and the only correct way of forming an ac- 
 quaintance with wild and vicious horses. But it should 
 be remembered, that your main object is to get the confi- 
 dence and attention of your horse. You will find some 
 
3 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 13 
 
 that naturally have too much fear of man — others have 
 no fear nor regard for man ; therefore you must use your 
 best judgment. 
 
 The best advice that I can now give you is, control 
 yourself — gain the confidence of your horse, and never 
 betray it by harsh and brutal treatment. 
 
 Your colt is now brought up by the use of the whip, 
 and follows close by your side. The next step is to teach 
 him that his strength, cpmpared with yours, amounts to 
 nothing. 
 
 Satisfy him that you can control him as you wish, and 
 that if he will submit he will not be hurt. 
 
 This is best accomplished by the use of our surcingle. 
 (See Fig. 2.) 
 
 Much has been said of J. S. Rarey's system of subju- 
 gating horses. It is known almost the world over. He 
 taught his system throughout the United States, Upper 
 and Lower Canada, and has also had the honor of operat- 
 ing before the Royal Court of England; and, as far 
 as our knowledge extends, his system has met with the- 
 approval of all those who have attended his lectures. 
 
 But, after giving him all the praise that is due to him, 
 it must be admitted that horsemanship, like all other 
 sciences has met with very great improvements. The 
 plan that we adopt is considered far superior to Mr. 
 Rarey's, or any other plan ever introduced; for our theory 
 places the horse in a position, that he is unconscious of 
 the amount of his strength. 
 
 Teach and satisfy him that we can control every 
 muscle in his system, — not only his head and neck, but his 
 limbs, and his back. When once satisfied of this fact, he 
 submits himself to our will, and is then, and not till then. 
 
J.4 , THE HORSE OWNEE's 
 
 prepared to receive further instruction ; for now we have 
 the three points established, fear, love and obedience. 
 Now for the practical use of the surcingle. 
 
 After teaching the horse to come to you, take the sur- 
 cingle in your hand, and approach him at the left side, pat 
 and caress him ; carefully lay the surcingle over his back 
 and buckle it as you would over a blanket. Now gen- 
 tly raise the left forward foot, and place it in the surcin- 
 gle by the use of the strap attached to the third ring of 
 the surcinole, as in Fio^. 3. 
 
 Your horse is now upon three legs, and it is impossible 
 for him to free himself. He finds that he is fast and in 
 trouble, and as you have taught him to come to you for 
 protection, he instantly comes to you for help. Now as 
 he calls to you for assistance, be ever ready and willing 
 to assist him. By so doing, you awaken his love and 
 gratitude, at the same time destrojnng his confidence in 
 his own ability. As you approach, gently pat and caress 
 him, and relieve his foot. After caressing him for a short 
 time, step to the other side and place the right foot in the 
 fifth ring of the surcingle, which comes in the same posi- 
 tion as the third ring on the left side. He will soon call 
 for help ; as soon as he does, pat and caress him. Up tx) 
 this time you have not attempted to control his head, and 
 why ? The main object thus far has been to gain his con- 
 fidence, aud satisfy him that you could control him, and if 
 you should try to control his head he would be very anxious 
 to free himself; and also, in attempting to control his head 
 you must necessarily inflict pain, and that would tend to de- 
 stroy confidence in you, for he would be as anxious to free 
 his head from anything that was hurting him, as you 
 would to free your hand from the fire, if a man was hold- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 15 
 
 (Fig. 8.) 
 
16 
 
 THE HORSE OWNER S 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 17 
 
 ing it there. Yon now take a common riding bridle and 
 carefully place it upon his bead, being very careful not 
 to hurt his mouth nor teeth with the bit ; do not pull his 
 ears nor pinch his nose; draw the bit well up to the angle 
 of the mouth. 
 
 The bridle now being upon his head, let the foot down, 
 and take a single driving rein, and make it fast to the 
 fifth ring of the surcingle ; your ten inch strap with ring 
 attached, run on to the rein ; now run the long line 
 to the sixth ring, which comes just above the fifth. The 
 fifth and sixth rings are called the pulley rings. By 
 drawing tight npon the long line, you will see that the 
 ten inch strap is drawn to the surcingle. Now run the 
 long line to the ninth ring, which comes near the top of 
 the back, and to the right side of the horse. Run the 
 long line to the bit-ring, on the right side, and lay it over 
 his back to the left side. Now step to the left side, and 
 place the foot to the third ring, take the long line in 
 your right hand, the rein in your left, draw his head a 
 little from you by the use of the line over his back, as 
 shown in Fiof. 4., and in about one minute he will lie 
 down upon his left side, with his head fast to the right 
 side, which prevents him from regaining his feet, and also 
 teaches him that you can control his head. He will soon 
 yield his head to you, and allow you to handle it in any 
 way you wish. 
 
 When he submits himself to you, lay his head gently to 
 the floor ; lay your right leg gently over his back ; take 
 the ten inch strap in your right hand and fasten it to the 
 pastern of the right fore foot. Now pass the long line to 
 the seventh ring; you now have both forward feet to sur- 
 cingle, and his head fast to his side ; now take your pole 
 
18 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 strap ; loop one to the upper or right hind leg ; draw it 
 up and make fast to the eighth ring ; the lower or left hind 
 leg to the fourth ring'. Now all of the legs and head are 
 fast to the surcingle, and as much under your control as 
 though he was screwed in a vice, and he is just in the right 
 position to perform any surgical operation, such as cas- 
 trating and the like. We never ask over ten minutes to 
 castrate any stallion alone, without the assistance of any 
 one. I claim, after long experience and acquaintance 
 with other methods, that this is the best and only true 
 device in practical use for this purpose. 
 
 By handling your horse in this manner, you place him 
 in a position that he is wholly unconscious of his strength, 
 and when you bring him to his feet, he is willing to do al- 
 most anything you may require of him without resistance. 
 You now have the three points established, fear, love, and 
 obedience, and a foundation laid for future education. 
 Your colt has learned to follow to the right and left 
 and straight ahead. By the use of your whip, you have 
 also satisfied him that you can control him. You mast 
 now teach him to stand hitched with the halter, and in a 
 way to prevent his ever learning to pull on the halter. 
 (See Fig. 5.) 
 
 Lead him into the stall and hitch by this plan, and he 
 is thoroughly halter-broken, without ever being injured 
 about the head. After testing all other methods ever in- 
 troduced, I find this decidedly preferable to any other; 
 and, how far preferable to the old barbarous and inhuman 
 way of snubbing him to a post, and permitting him to 
 pull until nearly or quite dead! And what right has 
 man to inflict so much agony upon any life entrusted to 
 his care ? What right has humanity to complain of tyr- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 19 
 
20 
 
 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 CD 
 S 
 
ILLUSTKATED GUIDE, 21 
 
 anny.in its superiors, when the human race can neglect 
 and entail such anguish upon the beings beneath them. 
 
 A little self-restraint instilled by a better plan of edu- 
 cation; a little more humanity enforced by the teachers 
 of religion, to instruct that man should not vievv himself 
 as the owner of the earth, which he temporarily inhabits ; 
 that man should not consider himself the proprietor of 
 the lives which share the globe with him; that man 
 should be actuated by genuine Christian Love towards 
 all animated nature; feeling kindly for the lives akin to 
 his own, and acknowledging, as fellow sojourners, the 
 creatures by which he is surrounded; then how much 
 affliction might be eradicated from that which wickedness 
 alone renders a "vale of tears." 
 
 BITTING THE COLT. 
 
 Here it should be remembered, that the main object is 
 to get an easy, governable mouth; not, as many people 
 suppose, to make a stylish horse for, no matter how styl- 
 ish your horse may appear, if he has not a governable 
 month, he is not a safe nor a pleasant horse to drive. 
 
 Long experience has taught me, that all bad horses in 
 harness have ungovernable mouths, therefore, let your 
 main object be to accomplish the above. And we think 
 the following plan superior to any other. (See Fig. 6.) 
 
 THE BITTING BRIDLE. 
 
 Take a strap two and one-half feet in length, and one inch 
 wide, with a one and a half inch ring sewed to one end 
 of it; now attach another three inch strap, of the same 
 width, with a buckle. Now, Scinches from the ring, inside 
 of the long strap, attach a piece of elastic rubber, seven or 
 
22 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 eight inches in length, and to this rubber fasten a small cord, 
 twelve or fifteen feet long, looped through the ring. Now 
 place a common headstall upon your colt's head, with 
 the overdraw-check, leaving the rein quite loose ; leave 
 him in the yard or stable for a few moments, then remove 
 it, frequently replacing and allowing it to remain on a 
 short time, ^y this means his mouth becomes used to 
 the bit, which is much 'better than the old plan. After 
 he has become a little used to the bridle in this way 
 you can commence bitting or teaching him to come to 
 the bit. Take your bitting bridle, and buckle around 
 the neck, (the same as you would a strap halter around 
 the neck), leaving the ring in the strap to come under 
 the throat; now loop the cord into the mouth and draw np 
 your check-rein as tight as he can comfortably bear ; now 
 take your cord in your hand (See Fig. 6.) and lead him 
 about the yard ; whenever he attempts to rest upon the 
 bit, give him a light, quick jerk upward with your cord, 
 which will soon teach him to keep his head up. After 
 working in this manner a few times, then step to the 
 right side, a little back of the quarters, and give him a 
 quick jerk to the right, not hard enough to shake him off 
 from his feet, but just enough to bring him around to 
 you ; now step to the left side, and repeat as on the right 
 side. In about one hour, by limiting your lessons to five 
 or ten minutes, and repeating until the head is rendered 
 freely and readily to the pressure of the rein, you will 
 have him sufSciently bitted to harness. 
 
 HITOHIira THE COLT IN THE STALL THE 
 FIRST TIME. 
 
 After halter-breaking your colt, it is then necessary to 
 give him a rest before working him farther ; and to hitch 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 23 
 
 hirn in the stall for the first time, observe the following 
 rule : — Examine your stnble very closely, in order to as- 
 certain that there are no loose nor broken planks in the 
 floor, also see that the rack, manger and lining of the 
 stall is sound and all right. All is now in readiness; 
 lead him quietly up to the stall. If he shows any sign 
 of fear, let him stop for a few moments ; talk gently ; also 
 pat him on the neck. By so doing, you will dispel his 
 fear, and he will quietly pass into the stall. Now for 
 the plan of hitching him. If you should hitch him with 
 the tie-strap, as is generally practiced, some little noise 
 on the scaffold above, (such as the scratching of hens, or the 
 like), would cause him to stare, pull, break loose, and 
 soon he is a confirmed halter-puller. The plan we adopt 
 for hitching the colt the first time is simple and effectual. 
 Procure a piece of rein webbing fifteen feet in length, or 
 a strap one and a fourth inches wide, of the same length. 
 Get the center of said web or strap ; now buckle a 
 common web surcingle around his body, just back of the 
 shoulder, then lay your webbing across his hips, carry one 
 end forward between the surcingle and body on the left 
 side, the opposite end between the surcingle and body on 
 the off side of the 'colt, the center resting across his hips, 
 the ends carried forward ; now take the center of the 
 webbing in your right hand and give it one turn over ; that 
 leaves it crossed upon his hips ; now carry the center 
 back, and pass his tail through the loop that you made 
 by turning the center of the webbing over — the same 
 as crupping with harness; step forward, reach your left 
 hand through under the colt's neck, and tie them snug 
 around the chest; next carry the end of your tie-strap 
 through the hole or ring in the manger, bring back and 
 
24 THE HOKSE OWNEE's 
 
 make fast to the webbing that passes around the chest. 
 Your colt is now made fast in the stall by the use of 
 the webbing attached to his tail; you need have no 
 fears of his breaking the halter or injuring himself. 
 
 Place him in that position a few times, and there is no 
 danger of his ever breaking a common halter. If you 
 should at any time use a rope in place of webbing, wind 
 the crupper part with a piece of soft cloth, otherwise you 
 would injure his tail. This plan will break the worst 
 of halter-pullers. 
 
 ANDLING THE COLT'S FEET. 
 
 We consider it tiie duty of every one that raises a colt, 
 to prepare it for the smith before he takes it to the shop 
 to get it shod, for many valuable colts have been made 
 almost worthless through neglect of this. There are few 
 horses that may not be gradually rendered manageable 
 for this purpose. By mildness and firmness they will 
 soon learn that no harm is meant, and they will not for- 
 get their usual habit of obedience ; but if the remem- 
 brance of corporal punishment is connected with shoeing, 
 they will be more or less fidgety, and sometimes very 
 dano-erous. We wish that it was a law in every smith- 
 shop, that no man should be permitted to strike a horse, 
 much less to twitch or gag him without the owner's con- 
 sent, and that a young horse should never be struck nor 
 twitched. The plan that we adopt to handle the feet is 
 very simple and not less effectual. By adopting this plan 
 your colt can in a few moments be taught to stand per- 
 fectly still to be shod. As soon as you get your colt 
 thoroughly broken to the halter, get a strap or a piece 
 of webbing eighteen feet in length; now tie one end of 
 the strap or webbing around the colt's neck, just where 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 25 
 
 the collar comes ; work it well back to the shoulder; you 
 are now standing at the left side of the colt; do not be 
 in a hurry ; work handily and carefully ; be very uniform 
 in your words and acts ; now take the other end of your 
 strap, gently pass it back between the forward legs, 
 bring it through to the left side ; now lay it over his 
 back, and, with your right hand under his chest, you can 
 draw it through again to the left side; now place the 
 end up into the loop around the neck. You will now 
 find your strap crossed just back of the left fore-arm ; 
 gently raise the left foot, and lay it into the strap that 
 comes between the legs; the outside strap is wound 
 around the ankle. Now take the end that is passed 
 through the loop around the neck in your rioht hand 
 your left holding the colt by the head ; you will see that 
 you hav^e the foot secure, with no possible chance to in- 
 jure himself in the least, as the whole strain comes over 
 the back and around the neck. Let the colt stand until 
 he attempts to free the foot ; but if you hold him firm he 
 will soon find it useless, and give up, and yield his foot 
 to you. The moment that he yields, and not till then, 
 relieve him. You have now fully convinced him that 
 you are not going to hurt him, and that he cannot get 
 his foot from you ; you will have no more trouble with 
 that foot. Now try the right foot in the same manner; 
 handle each one thoroughly; remember that it is just as 
 necessary to handle the fore feet as the hind ones, for a 
 horse that is vicious to shoe forward is more dangerous 
 than one that is bad behind. Now handle the hind feet. 
 Have the strap around the neck, and between the fore 
 legs, as before, and carry it back through the hind legs, 
 around the near hind leg below the fetlock, and bring for- 
 
26 THE HORSE owner's 
 
 ward throngli the loop around the neck. Take the colt by 
 the head with your left hand, and the strap in your right ; 
 pull back on the strap, which will cause the foot to be 
 drawn forward. This the co't will resist by kicking, but 
 di-aw tightly on the strap, and hold him firmly by the head; 
 he will soon find resistance useless, and will let you handle 
 it as you wish. Now step to the right side of your colt, 
 and proceed as on the left. Remember that you must be 
 firm, yet kind, and ever willing to submit to him when he 
 does to you, but never lot him know his strength compared 
 with your own, and never let him know that he is the 
 strongest. By faithfully pursuing this plan, as explained 
 and demonstrated before the class, I am confident that 
 you will meet with the most favorable results. Remember 
 that you must be particular and persevering. 
 
 TO RIDE A COLT. 
 
 You have gained the confidence of your colt, by the use 
 of your whip ; now be very careful that you do not betray 
 it, for if very wild he will be very suspicious, and watch 
 every move ; therefore it is v^ry important that you are uni- 
 form in all your acts and words. The old fashioned plan 
 of riding the colt, we think, very wrong. We well remem- 
 ber of attempting, to ride^ colt under the diiections of an 
 old experienced horseman. We were placed upon the colt's 
 back while he was rearing and plunging, and the next mo- 
 ment found ourself standing on our head in the snow, some 
 tliree rods from the colt, and after making several useless 
 attempts to mount him gave it up as a bad job ; while, by 
 adopting our present plan, in a few moments the colt could 
 have been ridden with perfect safety, just where we wished 
 to go, and if this plan is faithfully pursued, we are sure 
 
ILLUSTEATED GUIDE. 27 
 
 that any colt can be mounted and rode, in a few moments, 
 witliout incurring the risk of being pitched upon your head, 
 and teaching your colt a habit that will be dangerous as 
 well as very unpleasant. We say this with great confidence, 
 for daring nine years, experience with the wildest colts 
 that could be prodiiced, it has never failed in a single case. 
 Before you attempt to monnt a colt it is very important 
 that you teach him the word tvhoa, which we claim to be 
 the most important word in liorsemanship ; and if you wish 
 your horse to learn and obey the word, he must first learn 
 the meaning of it, and then you must only make use of it 
 when you wish him to stop. Never use the word wlioa to call 
 your horse's attention, in the stable, as many persons do, 
 such as, " ivhoa, get over ; whoa, lach ; whoa, come here,^^ etc. 
 until the horse gets completely confused with the'word, and 
 cannot comprehend your meaning. Hence the necessity of 
 being uniform in word and act. In fact, if you wish your 
 horse to understand and obey you, you must always be hon- 
 est with him — never tell him what you do not mean — nev- 
 er deceive him under any circumstances, but gain his con- 
 fidence, and never betray it. We would just as soon think 
 of betraying the confidence of our brother man as the 
 horse we were training. In teaching your horse the word 
 whoa, take a strap six or eight feet in length, lay it across 
 his back to the right side, fasten to the ankle of the right 
 foot, holding the strap in your right hand, the left on the 
 halter or bridle; now lead the colt a few steps and say, 
 whoa, at the same time pull on the strap, which will throw 
 him on three legs, and suddenly bring him to a stop, and 
 in a very short time teach him that the word tvhoa means 
 to stop. After educating your colt thoroughly in this man- 
 ner, then attempt to mount him by placing your knee on 
 
28 THE HORSE ©WNER's 
 
 his side, just back of the forward forearm, and draw your- 
 self gradually to his back ; if he should attempt to move, 
 pull on the strap, using the word whoa, and he will soon 
 think more of his foot than of you, for he cannot think of 
 both at the same time, as it is impossible for a horse to 
 think of two things at once. You must now be very care- 
 ful ; do not try to work fast, and do not be in a hurry, for 
 you will frighten him with your quick, hasty moves. If 
 you will work slowly for five minutes, you will be on his 
 back, and he will show no disposition to dismount you. 
 We feel confident in our success, for we have never failed 
 in mounting the worst that could be brought in half that 
 time. Move slowly and carefully until you get your right 
 leg over his back, and in the same gentle manner get into 
 an upright position. You now have your bridle reins in 
 your left hand, the strap in your right, which is attached 
 to the foot, and if he attempts to make a wrong move the 
 word whoa, and a pull at the strap, will make all right. 
 Bear in mind, however, that there is a great difference in 
 the temper and intelligence of colts, some being quick to 
 learn, while others are very stupid. Remember that the 
 more dull and stupid the subject, the more need of patience 
 and perseverance, always bearing in mind that you are a 
 man, and are dealing with a dumb brute — that if you are 
 not capable of controlling yourself, you certainly are not 
 capable of controlling a poor dumb brute. Your colt will 
 now allow you to mount and dismount at pleasure. You 
 cannot expect him to be handy to the rein until after he is 
 properly bitted, which is the next step with the colt. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 29^^ 
 
 HAIINESSIK"G THE COLT FOR THE FIRST TIME . 
 
 If the colt is shy about allowing you to put on the har- 
 ness, upon backing him out of the stall, first put the cord 
 around his neck, with a running loop in his mouth, (same 
 as for bitting), and give him a sharp pull siJewise, at the 
 same time repeat the word whoa ; also gently pat him upon 
 the neck. Now lead him to the place on the barn floor 
 where you wish to have him stand while harnessing, and 
 quietly take down your h^arness from the pegs. If the colt 
 moves from his position, lay down your harness and give, 
 him two or three more sharp pulls with the cord, at the 
 same time, with firmness, repeating the word whoa. Do not 
 speak too loud ; be careful in pulling him around not to 
 hurt him. A few pulls with the cord, patting and caressing 
 about the neck and face, frequently repeating the word 
 whoa, will so quiet him that you will have no farther 
 trouble. We well know this operation requires a little 
 time and patience. When the harness is well on, take it off 
 and repeat the process, until he will allow you to harness 
 him without scringing. In bridling the colt observe the 
 same rules with cord as for harnessing. With your cord 
 lead him around the yard for half an hour, to acquaint him 
 with the moving of straps and the feeling of harness in his 
 unaccustomed position. If he should attempt to escape, 
 one pull with the cord will bring him to you in a moment. 
 After a little time you may commence driving him with 
 the reins; take the precaution to attach your webbing to 
 the ankles of the left forward foot ; bring it back between 
 the girth and body of the colt ; hold it in your hand as a 
 third rein. If he should attempt to ran, pull upon your 
 webbing; take his left foot from him; that leaves him on 
 three feet, and in your power, at the same time repeating 
 
80 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 the word whoa, which brings him to a stop. A lesson of 
 two or three hours each day, for three or four days, turning 
 him in different directions, to stop and go at the word, im- 
 pressing upon his mind that you are his superior, and can 
 control him at pleasure, and he is ready for hitching in har- 
 ness the first time. 
 
 HITCHING THE COLT TO WAGON THE FIRST 
 TIME. 
 
 In hitching the colt to wagon the first time, we think it 
 a far better and safer plan to hitch him in double harness, 
 beside a well broken horse, also on the off side, — -and why ? 
 The first handling your colt receives has been mostly upon 
 the near side : consequently, he being on the off side, and 
 the broken horse on the near side, where the colt has re- 
 ceived his first lesson, he would not be as apt to scringe 
 as he would, be to place the broken horse on the off side. 
 Again : should an accident occur, to cause you to jump 
 from your wagon, it would be more natural for you to 
 jump to the near side, and in stopping your team it is more 
 natural to get out on the near side. The harness being on 
 both horses, you will now proceed to hitch them to wagon. 
 In doing this it will be necessary to have some one to assist 
 you; let your assistant lead the broken horse to the near side 
 of the pole ; next place your colt at the off side ; let the per- 
 son helping you, hold the colt by the head while you are 
 buckling the reins, hitching the tugs, and placing the web- 
 bing, or long line, to the ankle of the left forward foot. 
 Perhaps it would be better to buckle a short strap around 
 the pastern, with ring attached, to guard against chafing. 
 To be more fully understood, we will explain how it is 
 made : take a soft leather strap, one inch and a half wide, 
 and ten inches long, with the inside edges shaved thin ; 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 31 
 
 
32 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 9 
 
 then take a strip of firm leather, fifteen inches long and one 
 inch wide; on one end place a buckle and loop, with a lap 
 of two inches on the under side ; in the other end punch 
 holes for the buckle tongue, place the inch strap on the 
 outside of the wide strap, in the center, with one end ex- 
 tending one inch beyond the buckle ; then stitch the two 
 together, commencing at the buckle, and stitching two in- 
 ches, having the loop pretty close to the buckle, then slip 
 a one and a half inch ring over the outer strap, close up to 
 the stitching : then proceed with the stitching and close 
 up. This finishes the strap which is to buckle around the 
 ankle of the forward foot. A strap, or webbing, fifteen feet 
 in lens^th, is buckled or tied into the rino- and carried back 
 between the girth and body of the colt, and back into the 
 wagon, holding it with the lines in your hands. See Fig. 
 7. All is now ready ; start up slowly, stopping occasionally, 
 while on a walk, pronouncing the word "whoa," at the 
 same time pulling up on the foot strap. You will at once 
 perceive that you have the most perfect control over the 
 colt's movements. Should he attempt to run, catch his 
 foot and bring him to a stop ; don't halloo at the top of 
 your voice, but with firmness say whoa. You may thirjk 
 your colt would stumble and fall, but strange as it may 
 appear to you, it is almost impossible when in that posi- 
 tion for him to fall, or even stumble, while in motion. The 
 colt being unused to work, it will be necessary to give him 
 a short drive the first time, as you do not want him to get 
 leg-weary and become sullen ; after which you can give him 
 short and lively drives, until he becomes waywise, and 
 obeys the rein and word quickly. When he has by this 
 means become accustomed to being handled without scring- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 33 
 
 ing, or showing signs of fear, you may then hitch him up 
 single. 
 
 HITCHING THE COLT IN SINGLE HARNESS. 
 
 Put on your harness, which should be strong in every 
 respect, and well fitted to your colt, carefully ; lead him 
 around for a short time, until he becomes familiar with the 
 harness, then check him, quite loosely at first. Take yout 
 webbing, or the strap that you have used to handle his 
 feet, attach one end to the ankle of the right forward foot, 
 carrying it back through between the belly-band of your 
 harness and the colt. Now take your reins from the pad, 
 and you have three reins, two to his head and one to 
 his foot. Now drive him about a short time ; when you 
 want him to stop, use the word whoa, and take his foot. 
 Now place the w^eb or strap between his hind legs, touch- 
 ing him gently on each leg; if he should attempt to jump 
 or kick, say whoa, pull on the foot strap, then gently ap- 
 proach him, pat and caress, to let him know that you are 
 with him, and that he has done right in stopping. Contin- 
 ue this until he will start and stop at the word ; come to the 
 right or left, as the reins indicate. He is now prepared for 
 the wagon. Do not be tempted, under any circumstances, 
 to use an old, rotten harness, nor to hitch your colt to an 
 old, rotten, rattling wagon, liable to give way on the first 
 move of the colt. Many valuable colts have been so fright- 
 ened through such carelessness as to become almost useless. 
 
 Make everything safe and sure, as safety and certainty 
 should be your motto. 
 
 Before you hitch your colt into the shafts, lead him 
 around the wagon or sleigh, and let him examine every 
 part of it ; then back him into the shafts ; stand on the left 
 side of your colt ; have the strap or webbing attached to 
 
34 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 the right fore-foot, and over the back, holding it constant- 
 ly in your hand ; now gently lift the shafts, and make him 
 fast ; if he should attempt to move, the word whoa, and the 
 use of the foot strap would quiet him ; now step to the 
 right side, take the foot strap, pass one end over the belly- 
 band of the harness, and carry it back on the right side of 
 the wagon, over the hold-back strap, using that as a third 
 rein in your hand. You see now that you are all safe. If 
 he attempts to run, pull upon this strap, which instantly 
 throws him on three legs, therefore he is obliged to stop ; 
 if he attempts to run back, the same remedy stops him ; if 
 he attempts to kick, call his attention to his forward foot 
 instantly. 
 
 Now all that is necessary is to be careful and use a little 
 common sense in teaching your colt what you want him to 
 do ; in a very short time you have a colt you can recom- 
 mend as properly broken, safe and kind for any one to 
 drive, which is almost the first question asked by the pur- 
 chaser. 
 
 I have now taken you through the whole list of training 
 your colt, and I hope you will never lose sight of all the 
 important principles of my system ; Patience, Perseverance 
 and Kindness, with a good share of Firmness ; and also re- 
 member that colts should be train&d not broken. Train a 
 colt in the way he should go, and he will not need break- 
 ing. Do not do as many people do, let their colts run un- 
 til they are four or five years old, and then undertake to 
 break them in the old fashioned way ; this is impracticable, 
 for you as often break their constitutions, their courage, 
 their spirits, and sometimes their nechs., and very often the 
 breakers themselves get hurt. The colt should be taught 
 step by step, with patience and perseverance, what you 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUTDE. 35 
 
 wish him to do ; not driven to do what he does not know — 
 he cannot understand — while smarting under the lash. 
 
 TEACHING A COLT TO BACK. 
 
 Teaching the colt to back is the next operation, and is 
 a matter of great importance, as the future value of your 
 colt depends upon his being thoroughly broken. It should 
 be commenced while bitting the colt ; and before you ever 
 attempt to harness you should teach him to back prompt- 
 ly at the word, in the following manner. Have on bitting 
 bridle, stand in front and a little to the left of your colt, 
 your left hand on the bridle, in your right a little spring 
 top whip ; now give a quick pull on the bridle, at the 
 same moment a light blow on the nose with your whip, 
 and say, " back, sir," ease up on the bridle, your whip at 
 your right side, patting and caressing on the neck with 
 your right hand ; in a few moments try it again. By re- 
 peating this a few times he will learn what you mean by 
 saying " back, sir." 
 
 SUBDUIN-G THE COLT. 
 
 The plan for subjugating wild colts and vicious horses 
 has been experimented upon more than all other points in 
 horsemanship. At present there are five different modes 
 of operating, as follows : Mr. J. S. Rarey's plan of strapping 
 the foot; Messrs. Rockwell & Hurlbut's whirling until he 
 staggers 'or falls to the ground; Messrs. D. Magner & 
 Dudley claim to have an improvement upon the last named 
 by tying a loop in the end of his tail, taking the tie strap 
 of the halter, passing it through the loop, bringing his head 
 to his side, and tying it fast to the tail ; he then, with a bow- 
 top whip, steps behind the horse, cracks him sharp in the 
 quarters, and keeps him whirling until he falls. Another 
 
86 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 plan as introduced by Prof. Hamilton, is to procure a piece 
 of rein webbing ten feet in length, attach one end to the an- 
 kle of the left forward foot, made fast with a timber hitch, 
 which is made thus : take the end of the webbing, carry it 
 to the inside of the pastern, bring it around the ankle to 
 the outside, thence under the main webbing over to the 
 outside and back of the pastern, then pass the end under 
 and up through between the ankle and webbing, passing 
 the end through twice, and slipped up close (a knot tied 
 after that manner cannot slip or injure the pastern, and 
 will also untie without trouble.) After the web is made 
 fast to the pastern of the left forward foot, the other end is 
 carried through under the chest, and over the horse's back 
 to the near side ; a half-inch cord is now tied around the 
 horse's neck, about midway between the head and shoulder, 
 a running loop is then passed through between the neck 
 and cord, carried forward and looped into the mouth. He 
 now lifts the left forward foot, takes the webbing that is 
 brought over the back to the near side, draws it close, 
 winds the webbing around his right hand, and presses the 
 knuckles hard on the left side of the back ; with the left 
 hand reaches to the off side of the horse's neck, grasps the 
 cord that is looped into the mouth, and carries his head 
 against his right shoulder. After moving him upon three 
 legs for a little time, he then throws him upon the left side. 
 All the above named plans may answer very well, but we 
 never adopt any of them, except with the green colt. In 
 handling a wild colt, if he (at times) becomes stubborn and 
 willful, we grasp the halter with the left hand, with the 
 right grasp the tail, and give him a few sharp whirls to the 
 left, until he is somewhat dizzy ; we then slip to the oppo- 
 site side, with the right hand grasp the nosepiece of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 37 
 
 halter, witli the left, the tail, and give him a few sharp 
 turns to the right ; if he is rather sullen and refuses to 
 move, with your left boot give him a few kicks across the 
 quarter that will give him a start, after which you can 
 whirl him either way as fast as you like. This will have a 
 good effect upon a wild colt that has acquired no vicious 
 habits ; but for the old horse I use my surcingle : study 
 and fully understand its use, and you will not fail to bring 
 them to an unconditional surrender. Read carefully the 
 next point in order, and its use will be fully explained. 
 
 DIMENSIONS OP SURCINGLE. 
 
 (See Fig. 2) 
 
 Length, seven feet; width, two and a half inches, with 
 thirteen rings attached, as follows : The first ring is four 
 inches from the buckle, on the front edge ; the second, three 
 inches from the first, on the back edge, slanting from the 
 buckle; the third is a D ring, five inches from the second, 
 the fourth is six incnes from the third, on the back edge; 
 which comes directly under the chest; the fifth is a D ring, 
 five inches from the fourth ; the sixth is a D ring, four in- 
 ches from the fifth; the seventh is four inches from the 
 sixth, on the front edge ; the eighth is five inches from the 
 seventh, on the front edge ; the ninth is three inches from the 
 eighth, on the back edge, slanting towards the buckle ; the 
 tenth is a D ring, ten inches from the ninth ; the eleventh 
 is five inches from the tenth on the back edge, slanting to- 
 wards the buckle; the twelfth is a D ring, five inches from 
 the eleventh ; the thirteenth is three inches from the 
 twelfth, slanting from the buckle. 
 
38 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 CASTRATITiTG. 
 
 The plan usually adopted for throwing and castrating 
 the colt has been attended with more or less danger, time 
 and trouble. The operator has prepared a rope about one 
 inch and a half in diameter, and some twenty feet in 
 length. In the centre is made a loop, which is slipped 
 over his head and neck down to the shoulders, the ends 
 carried back and around the ankles of the hind feet. One 
 man is placed on each side of the colt, holding the ends of 
 said rope ; the third man at his head. The two men hold- 
 ing the ends of the rope, pull, while the man at his head 
 endeavors to back him. After some severe struggling, he 
 is thrown back upon his haunches. I must say the plan 
 is not only cruel, but attended with a great amount of dan- 
 ger ; the colt does not recover from his injuries for some 
 time. Two valuable colts to our certain knowledge, were 
 rendered worthless by the use of the above mentioned step 
 in throwing them ; one had his thigh broken, the other was 
 so injured across the loin that he became useless. By the use 
 of the surcingle, as described on a previous page, any boy 
 fifteen years of age can lay down a horse easily, and place 
 him in any position for performing surgical operations of 
 any kind, without the assistance of any one. In sections 
 where I travel in the spring season, colts are sent to me 
 daily to be castrated, and not in a single case, have I occu- 
 pied more than ten minutes in performing the opr^ration, 
 without any assistance. By the use of the surcingle it can 
 be accomplished in ten minutes (alone), easier than adopt 
 the old fashion way, with half a dozen assistants. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 39 
 
 HOW TO DRIVE A KICKING HOUSE. 
 
 I will now commence with the old bad horse's harness 
 trick. I have very often remarked that ninety-nine out 
 of every hundred vicious horses in harness, are horses with 
 ungovernable mouths. If we govern the mouth, we shall 
 in almost every instance, have a controllable horse. I will 
 ask, did the reader ever see a balky, kicking, bolting, 
 plunging, runaway horse, with a fine, easy, governable 
 mouth ? I never have; therefore I always give the vicious 
 horse a thorough training with the bitting cord before 
 hitching up ; in a short time he will learn to yield the 
 mouth readily to the pressure of the bit, after he has been 
 thoroughly trained with the cord. I wish to convince him 
 beyond a question, that I have the power to handle him 
 just as I wish, and will just say that I consider it necessa- 
 ry to handle all horses in a manner to convince them that 
 they can be controlled : let your lessons be thorough, but 
 not very long ; be gentle and patient with the colt, but 
 make the old, stubborn and vicious horse feel the extent 
 of your power until he submits ; then repeat until he yields 
 unconditional submission; then be gentle and kind, yet 
 firm in your treatment afterwards. 
 
 After testing all other plans that have been brought be- 
 fore the public, I must say that my present system for 
 handling a vicious horse, to subdue him, or for performing 
 surgical operations, is far ahead of anything ever made 
 public; and if I had retired from the business of teaching 
 Horsemanship, I would not be deprived of the use of this 
 one point for ten times its cost. The first step in the man- 
 agement of a bad horse, is to show him that his willfulness 
 
40 
 
 THE HORSE OWNEe's 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 41 
 
 must yield to superior power. This you can do best with 
 the use of my surcingle. 
 
 It must be remembered this is a vice foremost in point 
 of dano^er. A vicious kickinsJ^ horse is more dano^erous 
 
 o o o 
 
 than one possessing any other vice. If your horse is a 
 little nervous, lay him down with your surcingle, and 
 gently harness him as though he were ever so kind. Then 
 put on the Eureka Safety Bridle, as demonstrated before 
 the class. Your horse is in just the right position. Have 
 no fear, for you can drive any kicking or runaway horse 
 with it anywhere you please. If he attempts to raise his 
 quarters, he throws his head violently into the air, and 
 can do no harm ; it has a peculiar advantage over him, 
 for it does not hinder the traveling, as there is nothing 
 attached to his feet, and all you have to attend to is your 
 lines. Drive him in that manner for a few days, after 
 which remove it, and your horse is effectually broken of 
 the vice. (See Fig. 8;) 
 
 HOW TO HATf DLE A KIOKIITa HORSE IN 
 DOUBLE HARlNrESS. 
 
 In handling a kicking horse in double harness you can 
 virtually adopt the same plan as recommended in single 
 harness. Hitch him to pole by the side of a well broken 
 horse ; procure a heavy wagon shaft, with a bow at the 
 butt, the same as for a carriage. Step to the side of your 
 horse, pass the small end through the tug-strap (as in 
 single harness) turning it sidewise, then carry the point 
 of the crooked end under the end of the evener, leaving 
 a lap of some four inches, and make fast with two half- 
 inch bolts, bend projecting outward, after which procure 
 a strap four and a half or five feet long (according to size 
 
.-^ THE HORSE OWNER S 
 
 of horses), one inch and a half wide, with billet buckle 
 and loop attached to each end, the same as your reins are 
 buckled into the ring of the bits. One end of this strap 
 is buckled around the false shaft, where it passes through 
 the tug-strap of the harness of the kicking horse ; the 
 other end is passed through and under the chest of each 
 horsCj just back of the forward legs, and buckled into the 
 outside tug-buckle of the opposite horse. That is to pre- 
 vent the shaft from rising when the horse attempts to 
 kick. Now place your bridle upon the horse's head, as 
 recommended in single harness; bring the ends back, 
 and pass them through the ring made fast on the top of 
 the liips ; on one side bring one of the cords down across 
 the hip, and make it fast to the pole ; the other end over 
 the hip and make fast to the false shaft. He is now in 
 almost the same position as when between the single shafts. 
 The strap under the chest prevents the shaft from rising, 
 should he attempt to kick — also the horses from spreading. 
 I have another plan of working a kicking horse in double 
 harness, and why I do not recommend it in all cases is 
 because the operator is apt to get careless, and neglect to 
 watch closely the moves of the horse. The operator can 
 always tell, by watching him closely, when he is pre- 
 mcilitating a vicious move : a little scringing, dropping 
 of the ear, frisking of the tail, hogging down on the bit 
 with a sudden start, all indicate something wrong. Con- 
 sequently,' you see it is highly necessary to watch his 
 moves closely. The plan we were about to speak of is as 
 follows : and our experience in handling horses warrants 
 us in recommending it as a good one : Hitch your kick- 
 er by the side of a well broken horse, procure a strong 
 half inch cord fifteen or eighteen feet in length, pass it 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 43 
 
 around the horse's neck, get the size, tie your bowline 
 knot, and slip it over the head well down toward the 
 shoulder; then take hold of the cord below, pass it through 
 the loop, between the neck and cord, and place the run- 
 ning loop into his mouth, just as for bitting ; then at- 
 tach the long foot strap to the ankle of the inside forward 
 foot, carry the other end back between the girth and body, 
 into the wagon ; also your cord. Get some friend to ride 
 with you the first time, he driving the team, you handling 
 the cord and foot strap. If the horse attemps to kick, take his 
 foot from him — give him a sudden pull with the cord. We 
 have broken some of the worst kind in a very few days by 
 adopting this plan. You have a powerful controlling influ- 
 ence over them, as they can neither run nor kick. Try it. 
 
 HOW TO USE A BALKY HOUSE. 
 
 If ever we felt that the horse deserved the philanthropic 
 sympathy of man, it has been when we have seen a man, 
 ignorant and brutal in his own nature, trying to move a 
 balky horse. We shall have been amply repaid, and shall 
 have certainly given every one who buys this book a rich 
 equivalent for his money, if you are led to a more civilized 
 mode of treatment by its perusal. We are to remember 
 that balking is an acquired habit, and not from any disincli- 
 nation on his part to pull. We know that some men will 
 take the very best pulling horse, and in a short time make 
 him balky, simply from mis-management. It is not the dull, 
 indolent horse which balks, but the high-spirited and fiery 
 horse of blood and mettle ; this is so, because those who 
 undertake to drive them do not understand them. Notice 
 which horse of a team it is that balks, and you will find it 
 to be the one of the highest mettle. He hears the com- 
 mand to go, and, being more ready to obey than the other, 
 
44 THE HORSE OWNER'S 
 
 he springs off ; but not being able to start the wagon, he 
 is thrown back on his haunches, stopping the other as well 
 as himself. The driver whoops and snaps his whip, and by 
 the time the slower horse has started, the free horse has 
 made another effort, failed, and now both are balked. Both 
 horses recoa^nize that something? is wronof, and neither 
 knows what. They are alike afraid to move. Then the 
 driver plies the whip, whoops and slaps the lines, all of 
 which only tends to make the matter worse. This has been 
 seen by almost every person. The horse was willing to go, 
 but did not know how to move the load; and we ask any 
 sensible man to tell us if the horse should be beaten for 
 not doing that which he did not know how to do ? You 
 can make a horse do almost anything which he can fully 
 understand ; and we do contend that, by proper education 
 any balking horse can be started in a few minutes. Some 
 have adopted the plan of buckling a strap to the ankle of 
 one forward foot, standing in front, and pulling the foot for- 
 ward, so that the collar presses against his shoulder, and 
 thus causing him to move. Others have adopted the plan 
 of throwing a handful of sand in his eyes, but to this plan, 
 though it succeeds, we are bitterly opposed. We would 
 sooner own a balky than a blind horse. 
 
 If you get hold of a horse that has been long in the 
 habit of balking, just set apart a day for his education. 
 Go into some pasture or field, hitch your horse to a light 
 load, which he can move easily. If he refuses to pu44, 
 get a half inch cord ten feet in length, tie it around his 
 neck and loop it forward into his mouth. Step to one side> 
 give him a sudden pull and he will move a step towards 
 you. Step to the opposite side and give him another sudden 
 pull ; by repeating this ten or twelve times he will start wil- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 45 
 
 lingly. Then increase your load, and if he refuses to pull 
 use the cord as above. We have seen the worst of balky 
 horses in three hours time made perfectly kind — to pull in 
 any spot or place. The plan is simple. And why is it so 
 effectual ? there is nothing you can place in a horse's mouth 
 by which you can control him with such ease. The cord 
 is placed around his neck, and brought forward into his 
 mouth, and by a sudden pull with the other end it is drawn 
 suddenly across his tongue, comes in contact with the 
 nerve of his lower jaw, which he cannot long endure, and 
 he willingly moves off. If, at any future time, he should 
 show any symptoms of balking, a lesson with the cord is 
 all that is necessary. 
 
 HARD PULLERS. 
 
 (See Fig. 9.) 
 It is often remarked, and by horsemen, too, if you have 
 a hard puller upon the bit, give him all the road he wants, 
 and let him go. If he goes too fast jerk him up, first with 
 one line, then with the other. I have known some hard pull- 
 ers, which, by giving them the - rein and all the road they 
 wanted, would run until they would fall, and repeat the same 
 thing day after day. The idea is perfectly absurd ; it will 
 amount to nothing but a broken down constitution. Let 
 me speak of a simple plan by which you can control such 
 horses at pleasure. Get a common snaffle bit, around which 
 weld two iron rings one and a half inches in diameter ; the 
 bit is now placed in the horse's mouth, with rings slipped 
 close to the cheek bars ; get a half inch strap, ten inches 
 in length, with billet buckle and loop attached to each end 
 the same as for buckling check-reins in bits ; now place it 
 across the horse's nose, and buckle each end into the rings 
 
46 
 
 THE HORSE OWNEK'S 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 47 
 
 that are welded around the bit. That brings the rings 
 very close each side of the upper jaw; stitch to the center 
 of tlie strap across the nose one end of another half inch 
 strap eighteen inches long ; to the other end attach the 
 buckle on the top of the bridle, and between the ears. 
 This is to keep the nose piece from dropping over the nos- 
 tril. The bit is now arranged. Place your horse between 
 your shafts ; buckle your reins and start him along. Drive 
 him with a slack rein as long as he is quiet ; if he attempts 
 to go very fast, pull upon the lines. As you pull, the rings 
 around the bit crowd with more force against the sides of 
 the face, throwing his mouth wide open, and causing the 
 most excruciating pain. Drive him a few days with a bit 
 so arranged, and after that any boy twelve years of age can 
 drive him with perfect ease. 
 
 TOWGUE OVER THE BIT. 
 
 Attach to your bridle a check bit, as follows : procure a 
 small steel baj bit , a small one, so that the check bars will 
 sit close to each side of the horse's face. To this bit, buckle 
 checks and check pieces of bridle ; through this bit, drill 
 two holes, leaving a space between, and in the centre, of 
 two inches and a half; get a thick piece of harness leather six 
 inches long ; cut it in the form of a diamond, two and a 
 half inches wide, with ends rounded off to a point, ^he 
 centre of this piece of leather is doubled over the bit, with 
 edges just covering the two holes; it is now stitched to- 
 gether across, and close to the bit ; the edges of the points 
 are also stitched firmly together, and as the bit is placed 
 in the mouth, the rounded points of the leather run back 
 
48 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 into the horse's mouth and top of the tongue. He is now 
 checked up and the bit kept snug in his mouth ; your reins 
 are not to be buckled to this check-bit, but another is used 
 for driving. Get a common snaffle-bit. This is made fast 
 to the check-pieces of the bridle with a couple of small, half- 
 inch straps, five inches long, with buckle and loop attached, 
 letting it hang in the mouth, one inch below the check 
 bit ; to this attach your reins. You now have a driving 
 as well as a check bit. If the horse attempts to work his 
 tongue over the bit, the piece of leather so attached will 
 prevent him at once. Should he (as is seldom the case) 
 carry his tongue under the bit and out of the mouth, to the 
 holes drilled through the bit, attach a piece of large wire, 
 passing the ends through ; let the center drop one-half 
 inch below, same as a wide wire staple. When you put 
 the bit in his mouth, pull his tongue through the loop, 
 seeing that the space is large enough for it to sit easy. 
 These plans will soon break a horse of this bad habit. 
 
 A RUNAWAY, BOLTING, OR PLUNGING 
 HORSE. 
 
 This is a very dangerous vice, one accompanied with a 
 great amount of danger to limb and life. If the horse, 
 when making an effort to run, becomes very wild and 
 desperate, and in bolting woiitd jump off some bridge or 
 precipice, it is highly necessary to have some means of 
 controlling him, and to bring him to a sudden stop. To 
 accomplish this, use the cord with sm'all loop placed 
 around the under jaw of the horse ; the other end is 
 carried over his neck, brought back, and passed through 
 . the small loop attached to the under jaw, and thence 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 49 
 
 back into the wagon. The running loop, over the horse's 
 neck, should be kept well back to his shoulder. Now 
 prepare two long foot straps, and attach the end with 
 short straps to the ankle of each forward foot. The othet 
 ends pass through between the girth and body of the 
 horse, outside of the traces and into the wagon. Hold 
 your long foot straps and cord in your hand with the 
 reins, then drive him along in places where he would be 
 most apt to scare. If he attempts to run or bolt, give 
 him a strong pull with the cord, at the same time saying 
 (with firmness) " what are you doing, sir ? go 'long." 
 That may cause him to straighten up, and perhaps give 
 him a sudden start; if so, give him another pull, and 
 say, " carefully, sir!" If the second pull does not check 
 his speed, and you think he may get the best of you, then 
 is the time to pull on the foot straps; take his feet from 
 him, and drop him to his knees, pronouncing the word, 
 " whoa." That brings him to a stop without any failure. 
 Now ease up on your foot straps ; do not hold him by 
 the feet after dropping him to his knees, for in so doing 
 he would be likely to struggle, fall over, and perhaps 
 break your shafts. Again start him; if he attempts the 
 same move, take his feet and bring him to a stop. He 
 will not attempt the same move but a few times. There 
 is nothing that will so frighten a horse, as to think he 
 is going to be pitched on his head. The plan will effect- 
 ually conquer and subdue that willful disposition. After 
 driving him a few times with both webs, you may then 
 feel safe to drive him with one. Every few days repeat 
 the lesson with cord, and one long foot strap ; a lesson 
 each day for a few days, will produce the desired result. 
 The same plan is adopted with colts that are in the habit 
 
50 THE HORSE OWNEE's 
 
 of running, and kicking at dogs, hogs, pieces of paper fly- 
 ing in the street, and the like. They are constantly 
 on the lookout for such objects, and the driver or owner 
 is never safe. Place the cord as recommended above, into 
 the month, and the webbing to the foot, or both if neces- 
 sary ; for my experience in handling horses has convinced 
 me that some horses have the strength and will to run a 
 fourth of a mile on three feet. That is the reason why 
 (in some cases) I use the long strap attached to both feet. 
 In that case you disconcert them at once. If the colt is 
 very headstrong, when frightened, place the webbing to both 
 forward feet, and the cord in the mouth. Also with open 
 bridle, so he can see all around him. Take a dog into the 
 wagon with you. As you are driving quietly along, toss 
 the dog out on the same side you are driving your colt, 
 If he attempts to kick and run, give him a sudden pull 
 with the cord, at the same time take his feet from him 
 saying, whoa. Get out, pat and caress him, then repeat it 
 again. A few lessons will break him. Drive him with 
 the Eureka Safety Bridle. 
 
 DRIVING ONE REIW. 
 
 Even the angles of the mouth with the bitting cord, 
 then keep the blinders up so that he cannot see the driver, 
 for this is often the cause — he is often watching back with 
 one eye, and carrying his head to that side, constantly 
 pulling upon the opposite rein. Oftentimes it is caused by 
 the grinders being sharp ; in such cases, file them off. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 5i 
 
 HOW TO BREAK A HALTER PULLER. 
 
 Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it 
 made so that it will not draw tight around the nose ; if 
 he pulls on it, it should be of the right size to fit his head 
 easily and nicely, so that the nose band will, not be too 
 tight nor too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken 
 colt, or a horse that is in the habit of pulling at the halter 
 under any circumstances whatever. They have caused 
 more horses to hurt or kill themselves than would pay for 
 twice the cost of all the leather halters that ever were 
 needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It is almost 
 impossible to break a horse of the vice with a rope 
 halter. He will pull, rear and throw himself, and 
 thus endanger his life. And we will tell you why. It is 
 just as natural for a horse to try to get his head out of 
 anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it would 
 be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The 
 cords of the rope are hard and cutting ; this makes him 
 raise his head, and draw on it; and as soon as he pulls, 
 the slip-noose (the way the rope halters are always made) 
 tightens and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle 
 for life. Who would run the risk of a fine horse's break- 
 ing his neck rather than pay the price of a leather 
 halter ? If you have a horse that, from mismanagement^ 
 has acquired the habit of pulling at the halter, place 
 your leather halter on his head ; have the strap you hitch 
 him with twenty feet in length. You may hitch him 
 in a stall, or to a post outside, or in any place where he is 
 in the habit of pulling. If in a stall, run the end of your 
 rein through the hole in the manger, then back through 
 the ring of the halter ; and as you pull it through the 
 ring bring his head within two feet of the manger, then 
 
52 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 between his forward legs, and make fast to the ankle of 
 his left fore foot. We think you can see clearly there is 
 no possible chance for him to break his halter, nor to get 
 loose. If he makes an attempt to pull back he brings 
 his left hind foot forward under the body, is fearful he 
 will fall, and steps forward in a moment. After he has 
 made the attempt to break his halter three or four times, 
 you may take any object, however frightful, and hold it 
 in a position to frighten him, and he will not make an 
 effort to pull back. We have seen the worst of the kind 
 effectually broken of the vice in thirty minutes. 
 
 ANOTHER AND BETTER PLAN FOR BREAKING 
 A HALTER-PULLER. 
 
 Lead your horse to a place most convenient for hitch- 
 ing him. It don't matter whether to a post, in the stall, or 
 elsewhere. Place a common strap halter upon his head, 
 then procure a piece of rein webbing fifteen feet in length, 
 or a strap one and a fourth inches wide, of the same length ; 
 get the centre of said webbing or strap. Now buckle a 
 common web surcingle around his body, just back of the 
 shoulder, then lay your webbing across his hips, carry one 
 end forward between the surcingle and body, on the left 
 side, the opposite end between the surcingle and body, on 
 the off side of the colt the center rests across his hips, the 
 ends carried forward. Take the centre of the webbing in your 
 right hand, give it one turn over, which leaves it crossed 
 upon his hips : carry the centre and pass his tail through 
 the loop you made by turning the centre of the webbing 
 over, the same as cruppering with harness. Step forward, 
 reach your left hand through under the horse's neck, take 
 hold of the end of the webbing on the off side ; with your . 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 53 
 
 right hand take the end on the left side, bring the two 
 ends together under the neck, and tie them around the 
 chest. Then carry the end of your tie strap through the 
 ring in the manger, or some point where he has been in the 
 habit of pulling; bring back and make fast to the web- 
 ing that passes around the chest. Your halter-puller 
 is now in the right position ; if he refuses to pull, induce 
 him to do so by frightening him in some manner. My 
 experience with halter-pullers warrants me in saying this 
 plan is lasting and effectual. You can hitch him in the 
 stall and let him remain in that position through the night. 
 He can lie down, get up, and move around the stall with- 
 out injuring himself in any way. Hitch him each day 
 at different points where he has been in the habit of pull- 
 ing, after which you need have no fears of his breaking 
 a common halter. (See Fig. 10.) 
 
 GETTING CAST IN THE STALL. 
 
 If there is anything that will vex aad irritate the pro- 
 prietor of a stable, it is to have some one of his horses 
 getting cast in the stall. Every night a thundering noise 
 is heard and some one calls out, " you have a horse cast." 
 Up he gets, hurries to the stable, and with a great deal of 
 hard "labor they finally succeed in getting the horse to his 
 feet, stiif, and badly galled. Observe the following, and 
 you will have no such trouble. Place on your horse a five 
 ring stiap halter; (a five ring halter he cannot slip) 
 where the strap comes over the head, just back of the ears, 
 attach a one and a-half inch ring; do not slip the top 
 piece through the ring; you must make it fast, so it will 
 not slip to the right nor to the left; get a strap four inch- 
 es long, one inch and a quarter wide ; set your ring iu 
 
54 
 
 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE, 55 
 
 the center of the strap that comes over the top of his head ; 
 then run the four inch strap through the ring, stitching 
 both ends, leaving the ring fast in the centre ; with the 
 tie strap of your halter make fast to the ring of the man- 
 ger, leaving sufficient length to put his nose within one foot 
 of the floor. Over his head, Jand in the floor above, at- 
 tach a staple and ring ; then put his nose within one foot 
 of the floor, and get the distance from the ri-ag in the top 
 of the halter to the ring in the staple above, about a foot 
 back from the manger. Tlfe horse has the liberty to lie 
 down, but cannot lay his head sidewise; consequently he 
 cannot get cast. The above never fails. 
 
 PAWING IN THE STALL. 
 
 Get a common trace chain, about two feet long ; fasten 
 it to the leg that he paws with, just above the knee, with 
 a hame strap, and let the chain swing to the side of the 
 leg. He will soon be glad to keep it still. 
 
 KICKING IN THE STALL. 
 
 Some horses acquire this vice from mere irritability, 
 and uneasiness in the stall. If the horse kicks with but 
 one foot he can be broken, very easily, by attaching a 
 wooden clog to the ankle of the foot that he kicks with. 
 If with both feet, take the saddle part of the harness, and 
 bnckle on tightly; then take a short strap, with a ring, 
 and buckle around the forward foot, below the fetlock. 
 To this strap attach another strap; bring up, and pass 
 through the turrets down to the hind foot, below the fet- 
 lock. With this attachment on each side, the moment 
 that he kicks he will pull his forward feet from under 
 hira, which brings him to his knees, and he will be care- 
 ful not to do so very often. Let him stand in the stall in 
 this way until he gives up the foolish habit. 
 
56 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 VICIOUS BITERS. 
 
 If he is a stallion, with the confirmed habit of biting 
 and striking, at your approach, we can give you but little 
 encouragement. We would not think it worth while to 
 attempt to break him, but would advise you to castrate 
 him at once. However, we have bought several bad 
 biting stallions, and effectually cured them of the vice 
 while in our possession ; but, on the approach of a strang- 
 er, they would show more or less viciousness. I have 
 known owners of such horses to whip them until they 
 would tremble in every joint, and were (seemingly) al- 
 most ready to drop, but have never, in a single case, 
 known them cured by such treatment. In twenty min- 
 utes he is as determined as ever to renew the combat; he 
 seems unable to resist the temptation ; I sometimes think 
 it a species of insanity. If you have a mare or a gelding 
 in possession of this vice, you can easily cure it. Place 
 the small loop of the cord round the under jaw, with run- 
 ning loop over the neck ; have the small loop fit so close 
 around the jaw that it cannot spit it out, also under the 
 to.igue ; the other end carry out of the stall, and hang on 
 the peg where you hang your harness. Now, as you step 
 up to the stall, take hold of the cord with one hand, the 
 other, place on his quarter^ and say, " stand over "; if he 
 attempts to frisk or bite at you, give him a sudden pull, 
 and say, " take care, sir !" then pass into the stall ; if he 
 again attempts to bite at you, give him another sharp 
 pull, saying, " what are you doing sir !" Give him a few 
 lessons of this kind, and a cure is preformed. 
 
 TO SHOE A HORSE THAT IS VICIOUS. 
 
 We care not how vicious a horse may be when he is being 
 shoJ. Wd think we can make the worst of the kind stand 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 57 
 
 perfectly still in ten minutes, so that the smith will have 
 no farthur trouble. The plan which is adopted by the 
 smiths in general is not only cruel, but has a tendency to 
 make them far worse. A colt is taken to the shop, wild 
 and uneducated ; and, during the process of setting the 
 shoes, if he makes a wrong move, the smith gets in a fear- 
 ful rage and gives him a sharp blow with the hammer or 
 rasp; the horse rears and plunges and is so frightened he 
 will not allow a hand laid upon him. The next move is 
 to fetter or cast him. A rope is put round his neck, 
 then to the ankle of each of his hind feet, then forward, 
 with perhaps two men at each end. They then pull on the 
 rope, and the horse is thrown back upon his haunches. We 
 have seen fine horses so injured across the loins by adopt- 
 ing this plan of throwing them, that they were never again 
 fit for use. 
 
 Another plan is to put a pair of tongs on his nose, 
 then a rope to the ankle of one of his hind feet, and 
 through a ring made fast to his tail ; his foot is drawn 
 back, and made fast to the side of the shop. 
 
 Now we ask any man if there is any common sense in 
 employing such means by which to shoe a wild horse. If 
 a horse struggles, which he is sure to do, he must get 
 badly injured. 
 
 By the use of the surcingle you can shoe any horse 
 with ease and safety. 
 
 THE PLAN FOR A BREACHY HORSE. 
 
 A breachy horse is one which costs a farmer a great 
 amount of time and trouble. He goes to the pasture 
 or field, but is never sure of finding him where he per-, 
 haps left him the evening previous. Mr. Cole's plan, by 
 
58 
 
 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 V V 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 59 
 
 which to prevent a horse from jumping, is to place a 
 leather surcingle tight around his body, with an inch ring 
 under the chest, fastened to the surcingle ; also, a strap 
 one inch wide, eight inches in length, buckled around tlie 
 ankle of the left hind foot, with a ring attached ; a strap 
 one inch wide, three and a half or four feet in length, 
 (the length of this strap being governed by the size 
 of the horse), one end buckled in t]je ring under the chest, 
 the other end to the ring attached to the ankle. If the 
 horse should attempt to jump, placed in such a position, 
 he deprives himself of the use of the left hind foot, has 
 not power in the right, sufficient to rise — consequently he 
 must fail in his attempt. In most cases the plan proves 
 quite effectual, but we recommend the animal Fetter. 
 (See Fig. 11.) 
 
 HOW TO CATCH A HORSB IN PASTURE. 
 
 The prevailing opinion of horsemen generally is, that 
 the sense of smell is the governing sense of the horse, and 
 that no means can be employed by which to catch a wild 
 hores, in pasture, without the use of strong smelling oils. 
 Sullivan and Faucher, as well as others, have got up receipts 
 of strong smelling oils, to catch and tame a wild horse — 
 sometimes using the castor of his leg, which they dry, 
 grind into a powder, and blow into his nostril ; some- 
 times using the oil of rhodium, cummin and organum, 
 that are noted for their strong smell ; and sometimes 
 they scent the hands^ with the sweat from under their 
 arms, and blow their breath into his nostrils; all of 
 which, as far as the scent goes, have no effect whatever 
 in gentling or subduing the horse, or conveying any idea 
 to his mind, though the work that accompanies these 
 
60 
 
 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 Animal Fettek, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 61 
 
 efforts — handling him, touching him about the nose and 
 head, and patting him, as they direct you should, after 
 administering the article, will have a very great effect, 
 which they mistake for the effect of the ingredients used. 
 By using the oils you can approach a wild horse in 
 pasture, and after caressing him for a length of time, get 
 your halter on his head, but when you attempt to lead 
 him, he is off as wild as ever. 
 
 Paucher, in his work entitled " The Arabian Art of 
 Taming Horses," Page 17, tells us how to accustom a 
 horse to a robe by administering certain articles to his 
 nose, and goes on to say, that these articles must first be 
 applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break 
 him, in order to operate successfully. Now, reader, can 
 you or any one else, give one single reason why scent can 
 convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him 
 to do ? If not, then of course strong scents of any kind 
 are of no account in taming the unbroken horse ; for ev- 
 erything we get him to do of his own accord, without 
 force, must be accomplished by some means of conveying 
 our idea to his mind. I say to my horse "Go along," 
 and he goes ; "whoa" and he stops, because these two 
 words — of which he has learned the meaning by the tap 
 of the whip, and the pull of the rein that first accom- 
 panied them — convey the two ideas to his mind of go and 
 stop. Faucher, nor any one else, can ever teach the 
 horse a single thing by the means of scents alone. How 
 long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and 
 smell of a bottle of oil before he would learn to bend the 
 knee, and make a bow at bidding, go yonder and 
 bring your hat, or come here and lie down ? 
 
 Thus you see the absurdity of trying to break, or tame 
 
62 THE HORSE OWNERS 
 
 the horse by the means of receipts for articles to smell of, 
 or medicines to give him, of any kind whatever. The 
 only science which has ever existed in the world relative 
 to breaking horses, that has been of any account, is that 
 true method which takes them in their natural state of 
 mind, and improves their intelligence. Consequently, if 
 you wish to educate yo.ur horse in a proper manner adopt 
 a mechanical process. He will then fully comprehend 
 your meaning and obey at the word. If your horse is 
 wild, and will not be caught when in pasture, drive him 
 into the barn and close the doors, and make them fast, 
 after which adopt Mr. Smith's plan on fifth and sixth 
 pages. It will bring him up to you, and he will follow 
 you just where you wish to go ; after which you can go 
 to the pasture or field and say, "Come here, boy," and he 
 obeys the call at once, and gives you no further trouble. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 63 
 
 TEACHING TRICKS. 
 
 As many of my scholars may wish to know how to 
 teach their horses tricks, I will explain how it may be 
 done. Teaching a young horse a few tricks greatly 
 serves to keep up an interest in him, and make him 
 appear intelligent, fearless and- affectionate. In teaching 
 your horse to perform tricks, it is best to give him one or 
 two lessons of half or three-quarters of an hour each, 
 daily. 
 
 TO COMH AT THE CRACK OF THE WHIP, OR 
 AT THE WORD OF COMMAND, 
 
 (Use the same methods as for halter-breaking, catching 
 in pasture, and the like). 
 
 TO MAKE A BOW. 
 
 Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and 
 forefinger, and stand before, but a little to the left of your 
 horse. Then prick him in the breast very lightly, as if 
 a fly was biting; to relieve which he will bring down his 
 head, which you will accept as yes, and for which you will 
 reward him by caressing and feeding him a little apple, or 
 a few kernels of corn or oats. Then repeat, and so con- 
 tinue, until he brings the head down the moment he sees 
 the least motion of your hand towards his breast — or sub- 
 stitute some signal which he will understand as readily. 
 TO SAY WO. 
 
 Stand by your horse, near the shoulder, holding the 
 same pin in your hand, with which prick lightly on 
 the withers, and, to relieve himself, he will shake his head. 
 
64 THE HOESE OWXER's 
 
 Yon then caress him as before, and so continue doing nntil 
 he will shake his head at the least indication of your 
 touching him with the pin. You can train your horse 
 so nicely in this way in a short time, as to cause him to 
 shake his head, or to bow, by merely turning the hand 
 a little, or moving it slightly towards him. 
 
 TO LIE DOWN. 
 
 To teach a horse how to do this trick quickly, you 
 must lay him down two or three times, or as often as you 
 may find it necessary to make him understand your ob- 
 ject. If an old horse, strap the near fore-leg up to the 
 arm : then take your little strap, previously used to tam- 
 per your colt with, and place it over the back and strap 
 around the off fore foot, below the fetlock. Then take 
 the bridle rein firmly in your left hand, about eighteen 
 inches from the head, and pull upon it a little towards 
 you. The moment he steps, pull upon the strap over the 
 body, which will bring the horse to his knees. Hold 
 him quietly, at the same time talking to him gently. 
 AYhen he springs, pull sharply with the left hand, and at 
 the same instant pall down with the right, which will 
 swing him around you, and prevent his rising high 
 enough to injure his knees by the momentum of the 
 body in coming down. By your being gentle, the horse 
 will usually lie down in a short time. When down, 
 treat him with the greatest attention and kindness. 
 
 After holding him down ten or fifteen minutes, permit 
 him to get up. Repeat this lesson until he will come 
 down readily. Then use only the strap over the back, 
 which have on the near foot, and bring him on his kr.ees 
 gently, when he will soon lie down. When he will come 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 65 
 
 on his knees readily by taking up the foot in this way, 
 take up the foot with the hand, asking him to lie down. 
 He will soon come down. When he will come on his 
 knees readily by taking up the foot with the hand, 
 simply stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, " lie 
 down, sir," Then make him come down by a motion 
 of the hand,- and finally by telling him to lie down. If a 
 colt, use but a single strap over the body at first, which 
 will cause him to come on his knees. In teaching a 
 horse to lie down — be gentle, caress, and reward him for 
 it, and he, comprehending what you want, and finding 
 himself paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious to 
 get down for the reward as you are to have him. 
 
 TO SIT UP. 
 
 When your horse will lie down readily, you can then 
 easily teach him to sit up like a dog. If young and not 
 very heavy and strong, you can easily prevent his getting 
 up, without tying down. First cause him to He down, 
 having on him a common bridle, with the reins over the 
 neck, then step behind him and place the right foot firmly 
 upon the tail, the reins in your hands. Then say, " get up, 
 sir." The horse, rising from a recumbent position, first 
 upon his belly, throws out his forward feet and raising him- 
 self upon them, springs forward, and rises on his hind 
 feet Now, standing upon his tail firmly, and pulling back 
 upoa the reins when he attempts to spring forward and up, 
 will prevent his doing so, and you hold him sitting up. 
 Hold him firmly a few seconds, talking to him kindly, 
 before permitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few 
 times, when, instead of springing up, he will sit on his 
 
66 THE HORSE OWNERS 
 
 haunches a short time, which you are to accept as comply- 
 ing with your wishes. Always say, *' sit up, sir," every 
 time, and hold him in the position as long as he will bear, 
 by fondling him, and feeding him from the hand with some- 
 thing he likes and your horse will learn to sit up for you 
 as long as you please. 
 
 But if your horse is heavy, and strong, it will be neces- 
 sary to resort to other means to hold him down at first. 
 This you do by putting on his neck a common collar, and 
 causing him to lie down. Then fasten a piece of rope, or a 
 rein, to each hind foot, and bring forward through the col- 
 lar and draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well 
 forward. Then step behind, as before, and when he at- 
 tempts to rise on his hind feet he finds it impossible to do 
 so, because you hold them firmly with these straps. Repeat 
 two or three times, when it will not be necessary to resort 
 to such force. 
 
 TO TEACH A HORSE TO KISS YOU. 
 
 Teach him, first, to take an apple out of your hand. 
 Then gradually raise the hand nearer the mouth at each 
 repetition, until you require him to take it from your 
 mouth, holding it with the hand, telling him at the same 
 time to kiss you. He will soon learn to reach up his nose 
 to your mouth ; first to get his apple, but finally because 
 commanded to do so. Simply repeat until your horse un- 
 derstands the trick thoroughly. 
 
 TO SHAKE HANDS. 
 
 Tie a short strap, or piece of cord, to the forward foot 
 below the fetlock. Stand directly before the horse, holding 
 the end of this strap or cord in your hand and then say, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 67 
 
 " shake hands, sir," and immediately after commanding 
 him to do so, pull upon the strap, which will bring his foot 
 forward, and which you are to accept as shaking hands, 
 thanking him for it by caressing and feeding. And so 
 repeat, until when you make the demand he will bring the 
 foot forward, in anticipation of having it pulled up. This 
 is a very easy trick to teach a horse. By a little practice a 
 horse may be easily trained to approach, make a bow, shake 
 hands, follow like a dog, lie down, sit up, and the like — 
 which feats make him appear both polite and intelligent. 
 
 Never lose courage, nor confidence in your ability, because 
 you may not bring about good results easily. To accom- 
 plish anything of importance, remember, requires no ordi- 
 nary resolution and perseverance. There would be no 
 credit nor importance attached to mastering and managing 
 bad horses, if it were not difficult, and apparently danger- 
 ous. No duty requires more firmness of purpose in the 
 control of the passions, nor more fidelity to the principles 
 of firmness and truth, than that of horsemanship. 
 
 If you would really be a successful horseman, you must 
 never seem, by your conduct, to forget that you are a man, 
 and that your real superiority over the animal consists in 
 the prudent exercise of your reasoning powers. Brute force 
 is not your forte, and the instant you give way to passion 
 your reason mast yield to the control of blind instinct, 
 and you at once abdicate your intellectual superiority over 
 the animals. Try to prove, by the example of your actioa 
 in the performance of the duty, that to be a good horseman 
 requires higher qualifications of fitness than that of the 
 huckstering dishonesty and depravity, so generally evinced 
 in the conduct of those claiminji the distinction. 
 
68 
 
 HOW TO TELL A HORSE'S AGE. 
 
 At two years old, a colt sheds two centre nippers. 
 
 At three years old, a colt sheds the adjoining teeth. 
 
 At four years old, a colt sheds the outer or corner teeth. 
 
 At five years old, the bridle tooth is up, and at six years, 
 cups leave two centre teeth below. 
 
 At seven years old, cups leave adjoining teeth. 
 
 At eight years old, cups leave outer or corner teeth. 
 
 At nine years old, cups leave the two centre nippers 
 above. 
 
 At ten years old, cups leave adjoining teeth. 
 
 At eleven years old, cups leave corner upper teeth. 
 
 At twelve years old or past, groove on inside of bridle 
 tooth disappears in horses. Mares very seldom have them ; 
 when they do they are no criterion to be guided by. 
 
 JOCKEY TRICKS. 
 
 How TO Make a Hoese Appear as if he was badly 
 Foundered. — Take a fine wire and fasten tight around 
 ankle, between foot and pastern, and smooth the hair over 
 it. In twenty minutes the horse will show lame. Do n6't 
 leave it on over nine hours. 
 
 To Make a Horse Lame. — Take a single hair from the 
 tail, put through the eye of a needle, lift front fore leg and 
 press the skin between outer and middle tendon or cord ; 
 shove the needle through, cut the hair off on each side, 
 and let the foot down ; the horse will go lame in twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 ^ How TO Make a Horse Stand by his Food and not 
 TAKE IT. — Grease the front teeth, and the roof of the 
 mouth, with common beef tallow, and he will not eat till 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 69 
 
 you wash it out. This, in connection with the above, will 
 consummate a perfect founder. 
 
 How TO Stop a Horse of the Crib, or sucking Wixd. 
 — Saw between the upper teeth to the gums. 
 
 How to put a Young Countenance on a Horse. 
 
 Make a small incision in the sunk place over the eye, in- 
 sert the point of a goose-quill, and blow it up ; close the 
 external wound with the thread, and it is done. 
 
 To Cover up the Heaves. — Drench the horse with 
 one-fourth pound of bird shot, and he will not heave un- 
 til they pass through. 
 
 To Make a Horse Appear as if he Had the 
 Glanders. — Melt four ounces fresh butter, and pour it, 
 into his ear. 
 
 To Distinguish between Distemper and Gland- 
 ders. — The discharge from the nose in distemper will 
 float in water ; in glanders it sinks. 
 
 How to Make a True Pulling Horse Balk. — 
 Take tincture caatharides one ounce, and corrosive subli- 
 mate one drachm ; mix, and bathe his shoulders at night. 
 
 How TO Nerve a Horse that is Lame. — Make a 
 small incision about half way from the knee to the joint 
 on the outside of the leg and at the back part of the shin 
 bone ; you will find a small white tendon or cord ; cut it 
 off, close the external wound with a stitch, and he will 
 walk off on the hardest pavement, and not limp a par- 
 ticle. 
 
 Dose to Trade on. — One ounce of black antimony, 
 mixed with an ounce of cantharides. A small spoonful 
 twice a day will fatten a horse in ten days to trade on. 
 
70 THE HOESE OWNEe's 
 
 TREATISE ON SHOEING. 
 
 The following directions taken from Mr. Miles' excel- 
 lent treatise on horse-shoeing, are the best that can be of- 
 fered on this subject; 
 
 PREPARING THE FOOT. 
 
 You must begin by taking off one of the old shoes ; and 
 I say one, because the others should always be kept on 
 for the horse to rest upon. All horses stand quieter "on 
 shod feet than they can on bare ones, and they are less 
 likely to break the crust. Many tender-footed horses are 
 in positive agony when forced to rest on a bare foot, while 
 the opposite one is held up to be shod. First raise all the 
 clinchers with the buffer, and if the shoe will not then 
 come off easily, loosen some of the nails with the punch; 
 but never te^r the shoe off by main force as it splits the 
 crust, widens the nail-holes and destroys the horn. The 
 shoe being off, you should rasp the edge of the hoof all 
 rv)und, and take out any stubs that may be left in the 
 crust. Then you must pare out the foot, and this requires 
 both care and thought. If the horse have a strong foot 
 with plenty of horn, you should shorten the toe, lower the 
 heels and crust and remove the dead horn from the sole, 
 and also from the corners between the heels and the burs. 
 The best way of doing this, is to pare the burs down 
 nearly level with the sole, and then you can get at the 
 dead horn in the corners more easily. The part of the 
 bur which stands up above the sole, would have been 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 71 
 
 worn away or broken down if the shoe had not kept the 
 hoof off the ground ; therefore, you had better always pare 
 it down. But on no account ever cut anything away 
 from the sides of the burs, nor what is called " open out 
 the heels"; be sure you never touch the frog with a 
 knife. Now, remember that there are three things which 
 you must never do in paring out a foot ; you must never 
 cut the sides of the burs, nor open out the heels, nor pare 
 the frog, and I will tell you why you must never do them. 
 The burs are placed where they are to keep the heels 
 from closing in upon the frog, and if you thin them by 
 cutting their sides you weaken them, and they can no 
 longer do it, and the foot begins to contract. Opening 
 out the heel does exactly the same thing, by weakenino- 
 the very parts which nature placed there to keep the heels 
 apart. It takes some time to conti-act a horse's foot so 
 much as to lame him, and because the contraction comes 
 on by slow degrees, no one notices it till the horse falls 
 lame and then every one wonders what can have done it ; 
 but very few hit upon the right cause. The frog is a 
 thick, spongy cushion, the chief use of which is to protect a 
 very important joint called the maricular joint, and it is cov- 
 ered by a thin layer of horn, which keeps in the moist- 
 ure ; and every time you slice off any of the frog, you lay 
 bare a part that was never meant to be exposed to the 
 air, and it dies, and cracks, and forms rays ; and if these 
 rays are cut off at every fresh shoeing, the whole frog be- 
 comes as dry and hard as a board, and the horse gets an 
 incurable disease called "mari(;ular disease," Therefore, 
 I say leave the frog alone; it will never grow too large, 
 for, long before that would happen, the outer covering will 
 shell off, and a new, horny covering will be found under- 
 
72 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 neath. And as to the rays, leave them alone also, and 
 they will fall off of themselves. A weak, flat foot, will 
 bear very little paring or rasping. The crust of such a 
 foot is sure to be thin at the toe and low at the heels, with 
 a thin and weak sole. Therefore, the less you do to it 
 the better, beyond making the crust level where it is to 
 bear upon the shoe. This must be done to all feet, and 
 as the inner quarter, where there should be no nails, does 
 not wear away as fast as the outer quarter where the nails 
 are driven, you should alwaj^s place a rasp upon its edge 
 across the foot, to be quite sure that the two sides are lev- 
 el. I have known shoes lost from the inside quarter be- 
 ing higher than the outside, which causes the foot to bear 
 unevenly on the shoe. Before you pare out a foot, you 
 should always think of the state of the roads ; and if they 
 are dry and covered with loose stones, or have been lately 
 repaired, you should take very little off the sole of any 
 foot, because if you thin it the stones will bruise it ; but 
 when the season is wet and the stones worn in, you may 
 pare the sole of a strong foot a little, till it will yield in a 
 very slight degree to the heaviest pressure you can make 
 upon it with your thumb ; but you must never pare it 
 thin enough to yield to less pressure than the very heavi- 
 est you can bring to bear upon it. 
 
 THE SHOE. 
 
 In turning your store shoes in the rough, you should 
 leave them longer at the heels than smiths generally do. 
 We shall see the reason for it when we come to "fitting 
 the shoe." And you should make the web as wide at the 
 heels as it is at the toe, and of the same thickness through- 
 out, from the toe back to the heels. 
 
 The " fuller " should be carried quite round the shoe to 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 73 
 
 the heels, and the fullering iron should have both sides 
 alike. It is a far better tool than the one-sided iron in 
 common use, which is generally so narrow and sharp, that 
 it not only makes the groove too small for the heads of the 
 nails to sink into, but it often splits the shoe. A narrow 
 groove may look neater than a wide one, but you will find 
 a wide one much more useful. 
 
 CHOOSING- A SHOE. 
 The first thing to look at in choosing a shoe, is the kind 
 of foot you have to deal with. If the foot be a strong, 
 good-shaped one, it will be an easy matter to find a shoe 
 for it, only take care the web is not too narrow, and that 
 the shoe is not too light. A light shoe is apt to bend be- 
 fore it is half worn out ; and the pain caused by the pres- 
 sure of the bent nails against the tender lining of the 
 hoof throws the horse down, and most likely breaks his 
 knees. If the foot should be flat, with a weak, brittle 
 crust, you must still choose a stout shoe, for a horse with 
 such a foot would not go at all on a bent shoe, and the 
 shoe must have a wide web, because the sole is sure to be 
 thin, and will need plenty of cover to protect it. You 
 must also look at the seating, for if the foot is weak and 
 flat, the shoe must be well seated out to prevent its press- 
 ing upon and bruising the sole. But if the foot is strong, 
 and the sole arched, there need not be more seating than 
 will allow the point of a picker to pass freely round be- 
 tween the sole and the shoe ; otherwise dirt and small 
 stones will get in and bruise the sole as much as the shoe 
 would do if it pressed upon it. Having fixed on a shoe 
 to your mind, begin by cutting off the heels; and you 
 will find a half-round chisel a better tool for the purpose 
 than a straight one, because you should never cut them 
 
74 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 off square ; if you do, you will find it impossible to fit the 
 shoe properl}^ to the heels, and at the same time keep the 
 web as wide at the heels as it is at the toe, for one of the 
 corners of the shoe will be sticking into the frog, while 
 the other stands out beyond the crust. But if you cut 
 them off, as shown in the figure on page 38, you will 
 have no difficulty in bringing every part of the shoe into 
 its proper place on the foot. And there are no corners 
 left to prevent your fitting the shoe to the exact sweep of 
 the crust at the heels, and you are also enabled to keep 
 the web as wide at the heels as it is at the toe. At this 
 stage of the business, however, it is a good plan always to 
 leave the quarters and heels rather straight and wide 
 apart, till you have fitted the toe, because it is less trouble 
 to bring them in than it is to open them out after the 
 front has been fitted. 
 
 THE WAIL HOLES. 
 You must next open the nail holes, but be sure that 
 they have been stamped so as to pass straight through 
 the shoo, and come out on the foot surface in the flat part 
 of the web ; and not partly in the flat and partly in the 
 seating. It is a very bad plan to make them slant in- 
 ward, as most smiths do, for, in driving a nail, they have 
 first to pitch the point inward, then turn it outward, driv. 
 ing it all the time with the grain of the crust, and at last 
 they bring it out high up in the thinnest part of the hoof, 
 and have the weakest part of the nail for a clinch. Now, 
 instead of all this, if you make the holes straight through 
 the shoe, you have only to drive the nail straight, and it 
 will go through the shoe across the grain of the crust, 
 and come out low down in the thickest part of the hoof, 
 and give you a strong clinch made out of the shank of 
 
ILLUSTKATED GUIDE. 75 
 
 the nail, instead of a weak one made out of the point. 
 The advantage of straight holing is, that you are sure 
 never to prick the foot in driving a nail, and you get a 
 firmer hold for the shoe. Everybody knows that a short 
 purchase across the line of the strain is stronger than a 
 longer one in the direction of the strain. " The sound- 
 ness of the horse's foot, so far as shoeing is concerned, de- 
 pends more upon the number of nails and where they are 
 placed, than upon anything else ; but if the shoe is ever 
 so badly formed, and the nail holes are rightly placed, 
 very little harm will happen to the foot beyond the loss 
 of a shoe ; but if the shoe is of the best possible shape, and 
 fitted to the foot in the most perfect manner, unless the 
 nail holes are placed so that the foot can expand, it must 
 in the end become unsound. The portions of the hoof 
 which expand the most are the inner quarter and heel. 
 
 You must, therefore, leave those parts free from nails ; 
 and the way to do it is never to stamp more than two 
 holes on the inside of the shoe, one about an inch and a 
 quarter from the center of the toe, and the other about 
 three-quarters of an inch behind it. It is quite clear that 
 if you nail both sides of a horse's hoof to an iron shoe, 
 the hoof will be held fast and cannot expand ; and when 
 the horse's weight forces the bones of the foot into the 
 hoof, the sensible laminge, connecting the hoof with the 
 bones, will be squeezed against the shanks of the nails, 
 and cause pain to the horse at every step he takes. The 
 whole number of nail holes should never exceed five — 
 three on the outside and two on the inside. I have 
 proved, over and over again, that five nails will hold on 
 a fore-shoe at any kind of work in any country, and at 
 any pace. When a shoe is properly fitted to the foot, and 
 
76 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 fastened by five nails, nothing but the smith's pincers can 
 pull it off." While we agree in the main with Mr. Miles 
 in his practical directions upon the subject of shoeing, 
 yet we think he is in error with regard to the number of 
 nails required to fasten the shoe firmly. It is contrary to 
 the experience of most practical men, who find that with 
 less than three nails an the inside and four on the out 
 the shoe is very liable to come off. They need not be 
 placed so wide apart as Mr. Miles recommends, and will 
 not, therefore, be carried any farther back towards the 
 heels than when only five are used according to his plan. 
 "Having cut ofl' the heels and opened the nail holes, you 
 must next turn up a clip at the toe. Every shoe should 
 have one at the toe, it keeps the shoe steady, and pre- 
 vents its being forced back. But you should never put 
 one at either side, for if it were put on the inside, it would 
 prevent the hoof expanding, and on the outside it is worse 
 than useless, for the nails there are quite sufficient to keep 
 the shoe from working across the foot, and the clip will 
 interfere with the placing of one of the nails, and will de- 
 stroy more of the crust than two nails would have done." 
 
 FITTIK"G THE SHOE. 
 
 You must always bear in mind that "fitting the shoe" 
 means fitting the shoe to the foot, and not fitting the foot 
 to the shoe, as is too often done in many forges. It is a 
 bad plan for a beginner to try to fit the whole of the shoe 
 at once. It is much better till you have had a good deal of 
 practice, to fit the toe first, then the quarters, and lastly 
 the heels. But before you begin to fit the toe, take a 
 look at the old shoe, and see how much of the toe of it is 
 worn away, because just so much of the new shoe should 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 77 
 
 be turned up from the ground to remove it out of the line 
 of wear. 
 
 We all know that horses go better and stumble less in 
 old shoes than they do in new ones, and the reason why 
 they do so is, because they have worn away the toe, and 
 no longer jar the foot by striking the toe against hard 
 substances in the road. A new shoe turned up at the toe 
 is the same thing to the horse as an old one worn down, 
 but with this great difference to his comfort, that he is 
 easy upon the new one from the time it was first put on, 
 whereas he was never easy upon the old one until he had 
 worn away the toe. When a horse wears his shoe hard 
 at the toe, it is the custom of most smiths to weld a lump 
 of steel on it to make him longer in wearing it away. 
 But this only increases the jar to his foot, whereas, turn- 
 ing up the toe makes the shoe last quite as long, and 
 saves the horse from a great deal of unnecessary suffering. 
 A strong foot will bear the toe to be turned up a good 
 deal, but a flat foot is always weak at the toe, and cannot 
 bear the removal of any of the horn .from it. The best 
 way, therefore, of dealing with a very flat foot is to fit 
 the shoe to it without turning up the toe, then to make 
 the toe of the shoe red-hot and place it in the vise with 
 the ground surface toward you, and in that position rasp 
 the iron away from that part of the toe which would 
 have rested on the ground ; the horse will travel safer 
 and better for it, and the loss of a little iron from the 
 toe will not cause the shoe to wear out faster, for a fleet- 
 footed horse will generally wear away the heels of a shoe 
 long before he has worn out the toe. I will now suppose 
 that you have turned up the toe of the shoe, shortened 
 the toe of the hoof, rasped the crust to receive the turned- 
 
78 THE HOESE OWNEE'S 
 
 Tip shoe, and cut a notch for the clip. You had hetter 
 next, till you have gained experience in fitting a shoe, 
 " spring " the heels, to prevent them burning the back 
 part of the crust while you are fitting tlie shoe to the fore 
 part ; but you must bring them down again before you 
 fit the quarters and heels, and never leave them " sprung " 
 when the shoe is nailed on. You must now put the toe 
 of the shoe in the fire, and make it hot enough to mark 
 the uneven portions of horn, which should be lightly re- 
 moved by the rasp till an even bed is left for the shoe to 
 rest upon. You need not fear to burn the toe of a strong 
 foot, it can do no harm ; but a weak foot with a thin crust, 
 of course, will not bear much burning ; ' still the shoe 
 should be made hot enough to scorch the horn, and show 
 where the hoof fails to bear upon it. When the toe is 
 once properly fitted, there will be very little trouble in 
 fitting the quarters and heels. You have only to bring 
 them in over the back of the anvil, till the edge of the 
 shoe ranges with the edge of the hoof back to the farthest 
 point of the heel on each side, and continue the same 
 sweep until it nearly touches the frog. There must be 
 none of the shoe left sticking out beyond the hoof, either 
 behind or at the side of the heels. 
 
 The part of the foot that needs protection from injury, 
 more than any other, is the "maricular joint," which rests 
 upon the frog about an inch or an inch and a quarter 
 behind its point; and the only way to protect it is to keep 
 the web of the shoe as wide at the heels as it is at the 
 toe, and to bring in the heels till they nearly touch the 
 frog; by so doing you lessen the opening of the shoe, and 
 the web of one side or the other will strike upon the stones 
 in the road, and save the frog from coming full force upon 
 
ILLVSTRATED GUIDE. 79 
 
 tbem. But open-heeled shoes leave the frog entirely ex- 
 posed to very large stones and are the cause of many a 
 severe bruise to the maricular joint, which lays the foun- 
 dation of future incurable lameness. Another great ad- 
 vantage of bringing in the heels and fitting the shoe close, 
 is the certainty that the horse will not cast his shoe. You 
 leave nothing for stiff ground to lay hold of and if you 
 slightly bevel the inside quarter and heel of the shoe 
 from the foot downward, as is sometimes done to prevent 
 a horse cutting, no ground in the world can pull it off, 
 for the foot, expanding to the weight of the horse, enlarg- 
 es the hole made by the shoe, and leaves more space for 
 the shoe to come out of than it made for itself to go in at; 
 but if the shoe projects beyond the hoof at any part-, and 
 more particularly at the heels, the foot cannot fill the 
 hole made by the shoe, and stiff clay will cling round the 
 projection and pull the shoe off. Having so far finished 
 the shoe, place it on the face of the anvil with the toe 
 hanging over the side, and see that the foot surface of 
 the quarter and heels, are quite level ; then make it hot 
 enough to scorch the hoof all round and form a bed for 
 itself. Without this it would be next to impossible to 
 insure close fitting. After you have made the foot as 
 level as you can with the rasp, and the shoe as level as 
 you can on the anvil, the chances are very much against 
 their fitting like two planed boards, as they ought to do; 
 and the quantity of horn to be thus removed is so small 
 as not to be worth thinking about. It is a mistake to 
 suppose that a hot shoe injures the hoof; it does noth- 
 ing of the kind and you cannot possibly fit a shoe prop- 
 erly without making it hot. I would not have you burn 
 a shoe into its place on the foot before you had taken care 
 
80 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 to make both the foot and the shoe as level, but when 
 you have done that, the small quantity of burning that 
 is necessary, to make them come close together can do no 
 harm. T have said before that a weak, thin crust will 
 not bear as much heat as a strong one, and that the shoe 
 should be applied less hot to it; nevertheless, it must be 
 scorched, that you may be sure the shoe fits properly. 
 When you have cooled the shoe, you should " buck-hole " 
 it ; that is, make free openings on the foot surface for the 
 nails to pass through, and these openings should be 
 made large enough to take the shanks of the nails, and 
 not merely the thin part toward these points ; and mind 
 that in opening them you do not make the holes incline 
 inward, but take great care to make them pass straight 
 through the f=hoes. Before you ''file up " the shoe, hold 
 it firmly in its place on the foot with both hands, and ex- 
 amine carefully whether any light appears between the 
 foot and the shoe, and if you should perceive any, alter 
 the shoe at once, for the crust must bear upon the shoe 
 all round, before you can say the shoe fits the foot 
 as it ought to do. 
 
 NAILS, AND FILING UP THE SHOE. 
 
 I must say a few words about the nails before we come 
 to filing up the shoe and nailing it on, because the nails 
 in common use are as badly formed as they well can be. 
 Their short, wedge-shaped heads, wide at the top and nar- 
 row at the bottom, with shanks springing suddenly from 
 the head and ending in a long narrow point, are most un- 
 safe to trust a shoe to. The head of such a nail can nev- 
 er perfectly fill the hole in the shoe, for the wide top gets 
 tied either on the fuller or tlie upper of the hole before 
 the lower part has reached the bottom; and when the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 81 
 
 shoe is about half worn out the head of the nail is gone, 
 and the shank alone is left in the hole to keep the shoe 
 on. Now, the nails I advise you to use — and yon had 
 better always make them for yourself — should have heads 
 which are straight- sided at the upper part, and gradually 
 die away at the lower part into the shank, so as to form 
 a shoulder which will entirely block the bottom of the 
 nail hole; the point at the end of the shank should be 
 short and broad, to enable you to form good stout clinch- 
 es, which will assist in keeping the shoe firmly in its place 
 till it is quite worn out. Your nails should be made of 
 the very best nail rods yon can get, and they should not 
 be cooled too quickly, but left spread about to cool by de- 
 grees. They should not, however, be allowed to lie in a 
 heap to cool ; the mass keeps in the heat too long, and 
 makes them almost as brittle as if they had been cooled 
 too suddenly. Much time is often wasted in polishing 
 the shoe with the file before it is nailed on ; but all that is 
 really needed is to remove the burs about the holes, file 
 off the sharp edges of the shoe, and round the heels, tak- 
 ing care to apply the file hard to that part of both heels 
 which comes next to the frog, so as to slant it from the 
 ground upward away from the frog; but you must be 
 careful not to make the ground surface of the web at the 
 heels narrower in so doing. Fig. 1 shows the foot surface, 
 and fig. 2 the ground surface of an off fore shoe ; in fig. 
 .1, A is the clip at the toe, B 1 the outer quarter, B 2 the 
 inner quarter, C 1 the outer heel, C 2 the inner heel ; the 
 dark shade represents the seating, and the light the flat 
 surface for the crust to bear upon. In fig. 2, A is the 
 toe turned up out of the line of wear, B 1 the outer, and 
 B 2 the inner quarter, 1 the outer and 2 the inner 
 
82 • THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 heel; the light'shade represerits the ground surface of the 
 web as wide at the heels as it is at the toe ; the dark line 
 representing the fuller carried hack no farther than is re- 
 quired for the nails, so that the shoe may not be weak- 
 ened unnecssarily. 
 
 NAIIiIHG ON THE SHOE. 
 If the nails are of a proper shape, the holes straight 
 through the shoe, and the shoe fits the foot, it requires 
 vrey little skill to nail it on ; only pat the point of the 
 nail in the middle of the hole, keep the nail upright, and 
 drive it straight — it must come out in the right place, 
 low down in the crust, without the possibility of wound- 
 ing the sensitive parts of the foot. The shank of the nail 
 will pass straight through the substance of the crust, and 
 gain a good firm hold of it, leaving you the strongest 
 part from which to form a clinch. The clinches should 
 be short and broad, and not thinned by rasping away any 
 of their substance, but hammered at once into a slight 
 notch made in the hoof under each; and the rasp should 
 never be allowed to go over them after they have been 
 hammered down, for the sharp steel rasp is almost sure to 
 cut through the soft iron clinch just where it turns down, 
 and leave the appearance of a clinch, when, in truth, it 
 has been cut off at the bend, and the loose end only re- 
 mains buried in the notch in the hoof. You will do good 
 by rasping below the clinches, because you will thereby 
 remove the broken horn that the former nails have de- 
 stroyed ; but on no account ever use the rasp above the 
 clinches; if you do you will cut off the thin outer cover- 
 ing of the hoof, which is placed there to prevent the es- 
 cape of the natural moisture and to keep the horn tough ; 
 and if you rasp it away you will expose the horn to the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 83 
 
 air, and it will soon become dry and brittle, and make 
 the hoof difficult to nail to. This thin covering of the 
 hoof is like the shining covering of a man's finger-nail ; 
 and most people know from experience how dry and brittle 
 and easily broken a finger-nail becomes when by any 
 accident it loses that covering. 
 
 SHOEING WITH LEATHER. 
 Many tender- footed horses travel best with a covering 
 over the sole, and leather is commonly used for the pur- 
 pose. You must fit the shoe to the foot with as much 
 care as if nothing were to be put under it ; when it is 
 " filed up " and ready to be put on, lay it with the foot 
 surface downward on the leather, and mark the form of the 
 shoe upon it with the end of a drawing knife ; then cut 
 the piece out and pat it in its place upon the shoe and fix 
 them both in a vise, which will hold them close together 
 while you carefully cut the edge of the covering till it 
 agrees with the edge of the shoe ; then turn them in the 
 vise together so as to bring the heels of the shoe upper- 
 most, and cut out a piece from heel to heel slightly curved 
 downward in the center, that nothing may be left project- 
 ing for the ground to lay hold of. The next thing to be 
 done is to smear the whole of the under surface of the 
 foot with common tar mixed with a little grease; but be 
 sure that you never use gas tar instead of pine tar, for it 
 dries up the horn and makes it as hard as flint, whereas 
 common tar keeps it moist and tough. Then you must 
 fill the hollow between the frog and the crust on both 
 sides with oakum or tow dipped in the tar, pressing it 
 well into the hollow, till the mass rises above the level of 
 the frog on each side, but never put any oakum or tow 
 upon the frog itself, excepting a piece in the cleft to pre- 
 
84 THE HORSE ow:ner's 
 
 vent the dirt and grit working in. Very little is ever 
 wanted on the sole in front of the frog. The use of the 
 oakum is to protect the foot, but more especially the 
 maricular joint, which lies above and across the frog, from 
 being jarred by stones on a hard road ; and the best way 
 of doing this is to fill the space on each side of the frog 
 with oakum, in such a manner that it shall share the 
 pressure with the frog, and prevent the full force of the 
 shock from falling on the maricular joint. You must now 
 nail on the shoe exactly as you would do if there was 
 nothing under it; and, if you have attended to the fitting, 
 there will be no fear of the shoe's liftino: or comino^ off. 
 THE HIND SHOE. 
 The hind shoe, like the fore shoe, should be brought in 
 at the heels and be made to follow the exact shape of the 
 hoof; but, as the weight of the horse falls differently on 
 the hind feet from what it does on the fore feet, and as the 
 rider often obliges the horse to stop suddenly and without 
 warning, when he is least prepared to do so, it becomes 
 necessary to guard against strains of the hock and back 
 sinews by raising the heels of the shoe; but this should 
 be done in such a manner as will give both heels an even 
 bearing on the ground. Calkins may be, and I believe 
 are useful to heavy draught horses, but they are objection- 
 able to fast work. And turning down the outside heel 
 alone ^should never be done ; it throws the weight upon 
 the inner quarter, which is the least able to bear it, and 
 strains the fetlock joint. The plan I have adopted for 
 many years is to have the last inch-and-a-half toward 
 the heel forged deeper and thicker than any other part 
 of the shoe. The heels are then made red-hot, and 
 the shoe is put in a vise with the hot heels projecting, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 85 
 
 which are beaten down with a hammer till they are about 
 an inch long, and then the sides are made even, and the 
 foot and ground surfaces level on the anvil. 1 have found 
 horses travel pleasanter, and receive less damage to their 
 hocks, back sinews, and fetlock joints with these heels to 
 their hind shoes, than they have with any others that I 
 have tried. The toe of the hind shoe is exposed to great 
 wear, and should be made stout and thick, and rather 
 pointed, with a small clip in the middle to prevent the 
 shoe from being driven backward ; and the back edge of 
 the web should be rounded off to guard against " over- 
 reach." The toe should rest fairly on the ground to en- 
 able the horse to get a good purchase for throwing his 
 weight forward. It is a bad plan to make the toe broad, 
 and to place clips at the side of it; it is nearly certain to 
 cause the very evil it was intended to prevent, by making 
 the horse " forge," as it is called. Many persons think 
 that " forging" is caused by the front of the toe of the 
 hind shoe striking against the heel of the fore shoe, but 
 that is a mistake. The sound is produced in this way. 
 When the horse raises his fore foot from the ground and 
 does not instantly throw it forward, but dwells in the ac- 
 tion, the hind foot following quickly is forced into the 
 opening of the fore shoe before the fore foot gets out of 
 the way, and the corners ^f the broad toe, made still 
 broader by the clips at the sides, are struck against the 
 inner rim of the web of the fore shoe on each side just 
 behind the quarter, and cause the unpleasant clicking 
 sound. The way to avoid this disagreeable noise is to 
 make the hind shoe narrow at the toe, and rather pointed, 
 with a small clip in the centre, and to leave the hoof 
 projecting beyond the shoe across the toe. Then the 
 
86 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 projecting horn of tlie hind foot will enter the opening of 
 the fore shoe, heki up to receive it, and be stopped by the 
 sole or frog before any part of the two shoes can come 
 together, and the noise will cease. I have said that you 
 should round off the back edge of the web at the toe to 
 prevent an " over-reach." It is commonly supposed that 
 this also is done by the front of the toe, whereas it is al- 
 ways done by the back edge, which in a well-worn shoe, 
 becomes as sharp as a knife. Now, if the horse, in gal- 
 loping, does not lift up his fore foot from the ground 
 and throw it forward in time to make way for the hind 
 foot, the hind foot over-reaches it and cuts a piece out of 
 the soft parts above the heel, and produces a very trouble- 
 some wound. The hind foot expands less than the fore 
 foot; still you should place the nail holes so as not to 
 confine the foot. For some years I shod my light horses, 
 as an experiment, with only six nails in each hind shoe, 
 and I found it to answer very well for them ; but six were 
 not enough to prevent the hind shoes of my large carriage 
 horses from occasionally shifting on their feet. I therefore 
 shod them with seven ; and I recommend you, as a gen- 
 eral rule, to put seven nails into the hind shoes of all 
 hunters and other horses that are likely to be frequently 
 called upon to exert their muscular powers to the fullest 
 extent. The holes on the inside should be stamped 
 closer together than those on the outside, and they should 
 be placed forward towards the toe, so as to leave the in- 
 side quarter and heel free to expand. A small foot can be 
 safely shod with six nails, and no foot can ever require 
 more than seven. 
 
 CUTTIWG. 
 Horses strike their feet against the opposite leg in such 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 87 
 
 a variety of ways both before and behind, that it is im- 
 possible to form a shoe that would suit every case of 
 ** cutting"." I therefore advise you, whether the horse cuts 
 before or behind, to fasten something like a boot, covered 
 thickly with melted pipe-clay or chalk, over the place 
 where he strikes the leg, and then trot him along the road. 
 He will soon pick off some of the pipe-clay with the 
 opposite foot, and show you the exact part of the shoe he 
 strikes with, which you can easily alter in the new shoe ; 
 and you will often be surprised to see how small a matter 
 causes the mischief. 
 
 REMOVING. 
 
 The time at which horses' shoes should be removed 
 must depend very much upon circumstances. If a horse 
 wears his shoe out in less than a month, they had better 
 not be removed ; and horses with thin, weak horns which 
 grow slowly are likewise better left alone between each 
 shoeing unless their shoes last sexen or eight weeks ; in 
 which case they should be removed once within the time. 
 But horses with strong feet and plenty of horn, that wear 
 their shoes four or five weeks, should have them removed 
 at the end of a fortnight ; and when horses are doing so 
 little work, or wear their shoes so lightly that they last 
 over two months, they should be removed every two or 
 three weeks, and at the second removal the shoe should 
 be put into the fire and refitted, or the feet will outgrow 
 the shoes, as the horn grows much quicker when a horse 
 is idle than it does when he is in full work. 
 
 THE BAR SHOE. 
 
 As shown in the accompanying figure, consists of a 
 complete ring of iron, similar to the ordinary shoe as far 
 
SS THE HORSE OWN 
 
 as the back of the quarters, but from that part bending 
 inward to meet the web of the opposite side, with which 
 it is welded. It may be used for two purposes. In one 
 case the foot is so prepared that the frog shall touch the 
 shoe, while the heels are quite free and relieved from 
 pressure. In the other the bar is hollowed out so that 
 the frog is relieved, and the pressure brought on the heels. 
 It is specially valuable for tender frogs, or, when these are 
 sound, for corns and weak heels and quarters. The leather 
 sole, which has been minutely described, is used with 
 great benefit on horses with high action, and having weak 
 soles or frogs, or with tender feet from laminitis. It serves 
 to take off the jar from the feet, and prevents stones from 
 bruising the sole. The French shoe differs from the Eng- 
 lish form in both its surfaces ; that wdiich comes in con- 
 ,tact with the foot being concave, while the other is con- 
 vex. To make it fit the foot, the toe and heels of the 
 latter must be pared away and ma'le to fit the shoe. The 
 web is very wide, punched with eight counter-sunk nail 
 holes, the English plan of fullering not being adopted. 
 
 The holes are are also punched fully the third of an inch 
 from the edge of the shoe, and the nails are 'driven in a 
 very great slant. 
 
 To Prevent Overreaching or Clicking. — Shoe 
 your horses heavy forward (two-pound shoe), making the 
 heel of the shoe twice the thickness of the toe ; the hind 
 shoe made short, marrow web, and very light, with toe 
 twice the thickness of the heel. Placing the heavy shoes 
 to the forward feet will cause him to lift his feet with more 
 energy ; also, the heels of his forward feet and th.e toes of 
 his hind feet will so reverse the action that, in the majority 
 of cases, they will travel clear. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. . 89 
 
 My Plan for Interfering with the Hind Feet. — 
 I think we can safely say that more than half of the horses 
 now in use are animals that cut their ankles, and it is a 
 great objection. A horse of tliat kind is rejected by many 
 dealers ; but we argue that if they are properly shod, the 
 cause can be removed. The habit that smiths in general 
 have of leaving the inside of the shoe twice the thickness 
 of the outer side is all wrong. The shoe should be narrow 
 web and very light ; each side of the same thickness. The 
 toe-calk should be welded to the toe one-half inch inside of 
 the centre, leaving the inside of said calk the highest ; 
 heel-calks the same hight. By so doing the outside of the 
 shoe is one inch longer than the inside. It is now neces- 
 sary to pare the outside of the foot to the lowest. Your 
 shoe is now made fast to the foot with five nails — three 
 on the outside and two on the inner ; also, three clips, one 
 at the toe and one at each side. 
 
 Interfering with Forward Feet. — I have known 
 valuable horses, and fast trotting horses, to cut their ankles 
 inside of the leg, and quite often the knee, and badly, too, 
 with the shoe of the opposite foot; and we think the plan 
 we adopt a good one. The outer web of the shoe should be 
 narrow and light, the inner wide and heavy, with the out- 
 side of the hoof pared the lowest. When all other plans 
 have failed, this has proved effectual. 
 
 Quarter-Orack. — Much has been said, and various 
 plans (fevised, by which to heal a quarter-crack, such as 
 scoring with a knife, blistering, cutting with a sharp, hot 
 iron, riveting, and the like ; all which in some cases, have 
 proved a failure. Now, let me say, if you will follow my 
 directions, you will have a sound foot in three months. 
 
90 • THE HORSE OWNER'S 
 
 Above the crack, and next to the hair, cut with yonr knife 
 an incision one-half inch long, crosswise of the crack, and 
 one-eighth or one-sixteenth inch deep. Now, from the 
 incision, draw a line, one-quarter inch each side, parallel 
 with the crack, down to the shoe ; witli your knife follow 
 those lines, and cut through the enamel or crust of the foot. 
 You see, now, there is apiece of the crust to be taken out; 
 this is done by loosening the top of the piece next to the 
 hair with your knife. Then, with your forceps, take hold 
 of the piece and pull it off; that leaves a space of one-half 
 inch of the crust taken out from- the hair down to the shoe. 
 Fill the cavity with tar, and lace on a soft piece of leather 
 to keep the tar in its place. Keep him quiet for three or 
 four days, and he is ready to drive. Shoe with a bar shoe, 
 leaving some spring to the heel, so that it will not bear 
 hard upon the weak quarter, and in three months you will 
 have a sound foot. Try it. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 91 
 
 Riding and Driving. 
 
 BIDING. 
 
 The accoutrements and aids required are a saddle, bri- 
 dle, and a whip or stick. Spurs are not commonly used 
 unless the horse is sluggish ; but some are never to be de- 
 pended upon without this stimulus. They are sometimes 
 so indolent as to stumble at every few yards without the 
 spur, but on the slightest touch they are all alive, and 
 their action changes in a moment. With such animals 
 the spur should always be worn, though it need seldom 
 be used. 
 
 MOUNTITJ-G- AND DISMOUNTING. 
 
 The directions for these, the preliminary feats of horse- 
 manship, are generally given as if all horses were of mod- 
 erate height, and all men six feet in their stockings, 
 Thus Captain Richardson in his recent contributions to 
 " sporting " literature, advises as follows : " Stand opposite 
 the near fore foot of the horse, place the left hand on the 
 neck, near to the withers, having the back of the hand to 
 the horse's head, and the reins lying in front of the hand. 
 Take up the reins with the right hand, put the little fin- 
 ger of the left hand between them, and draw them 
 through until you feel the mouth of the horse ; turn the 
 remainder of the reins along the side of the left hand, let 
 
92 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 it fall over tlie fore-finger on the off side, and pkce the 
 thumb upon the reins. Twist a lock of the mane round 
 the thumb or fore-finger, and close the hand firmly upon 
 the reins. Take the stirrup in the right hand and place 
 the left toe in it as far as the ball ; let the knee press 
 ao-ainst the flap of the saddle to prevent the point of the 
 toe from irritating the. side of the horse ; seize the cantle 
 of the saddle with the right hand, and springing from the 
 right toe, throw the right leg clear over the horse, com- 
 ing gently into the saddle by staying the weight of the 
 body with the right hand resting on the right side of the 
 pommel of the saddle; put the right toe in the stirrup." 
 Now, this is, in the main, applicable to a man of five feet 
 ten inches or six feet ; but to a shorter individnal, at- 
 tempting to mount a horse of fifteen hands, it is an im- 
 possibility, simply because he cannot reach the cantle 
 from the same position which enables him to hold the 
 stirrup in his left hand. The Captain is also wrong, in 
 my opinion, in directing that the body should be raised 
 into the saddle directly from the ground, with one move- 
 ment. This will always bring the rider down into the 
 saddle wath a very awkward jerk; and the proper direc- 
 tion is to raise the body straight up, till both feet are on 
 a level with the stirrup iron, and then, with the left leg. 
 held against the flap of the saddle by the left hand on the 
 pommel, the right leg is easily thrown over the cantle, 
 and the body may be kept in the first position until the 
 horse is quiet, if he is plunging or rearing. A short man 
 can generally place his foot in the stirrup while in his 
 hand, but it should be known that all cannot do this, 
 because I have seen young* riders much vexed at finding 
 that they could not possibly do what is directed. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 93 
 
 In all Ceases the rider should stand at the shoulder, 
 though with a short man, it is mnch easier to mount a tall 
 horse from the hind-quarter. If the hand c^n steady the 
 stirrup it should do so, but if the person is too short it 
 can be placed in the stirrup without its aid; then, tak- 
 ing the reins between the fingers, much as directed in the 
 passage already quoted, and grasping a lock of the mane 
 with the finger and thumb, the body is raised till the 
 right foot is brought to a level with the left, when the 
 right hand seizes the cantle, and with the left grasping 
 the pommel, the body is steadied for a short time, which 
 in the ordinary mount is almost imperceptible, but in a 
 fidgety horse is sometimes of considerable length. The 
 leg is now thrown gently over the saddle, and as it reach- 
 es the hand the latter is withdrawn, after which the body 
 sinks into the saddle in an easy and graceful manner. 
 The right foot is then placed in the stirrup, with or with- 
 out the aid of the right hand holding it. Dismounting is 
 effected by first bringing the horse to a stand-still ; then 
 shorten, the left hand on the reins, till it lies on the with- 
 ers, with a steady feel of the mouth, twist a lock of the 
 mane on the finger, and hold it with the reins; bearing 
 also Oil the pommel with the heel of the hand. Next, 
 throw the right foot out of the stirrup, and lift the body, 
 steadied by the left hand and borne by the left foot, un- 
 til it is raised out of the saddle ; throw gently the right 
 leg over the cantle, and, as it passes it, grasp this part 
 with the right hand ; then lower the body gently to the 
 ground by the aid of the two hands and left foot; or if it 
 is a very short person and a tall horse, by raising the body 
 out of the stirrup on the hands, and dropping to the 
 ground by their aid alone. Mounting without stirrups, 
 
94 THE HORSE OWNEK's 
 
 while the horse is standing still, is effected as follows. 
 The rider stands opposite the saddle and takes hold of 
 both the pommel and cantle, keeping the reins in the left 
 hand at the same time, and in the same manner as in an 
 ordinary mounting. Now spring strongly from the ground, 
 and by means of the spring, aided by the arms, raise the 
 body above the saddle; then twist the leg over, whilst 
 the right hand is shifted to the right side of the pommel, 
 and by means of both the hands the body is steadied into 
 the saddle. Mounting without stirrups may, by very ac- 
 tive men, be effected while the horse is going on, much in 
 the same way as is seen constantly in the circus. The 
 rider runs by the side of the horse, laying hold of the 
 pommel of the saddle with both hands strongly, and, al- 
 lowing him to drag him along for two or three very long 
 steps, he suddenly springs from the ground and is drawn 
 into the saddle. This feat is seldom achieved by the or- 
 dinary equestrian ; but it is easier than it looks, and is 
 sometimes of great service with a fidgety horse. Dis- 
 mounting without stirrups, requires the horse to be 
 brought to a stand-still, then, holding the reins in the left 
 hand both are placed upon the pommel, and by their aid 
 alone the body is raised out of the saddle ; the right leg 
 is now thrown over the cantle, and in doing so the right 
 hand seizes it, and with the left lowers the body to the 
 ground. Mounting and dismounting on the off side mere- 
 ly requires all the movements to be reversed, and, reading 
 left for right and right for left, all the directions pre- 
 viously given are applicable. It is very useful sometimes 
 to be able to effect this, as some horses with defective eyes 
 will more readily allow mounting on the off side than on 
 the left. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 95 
 
 MANAGEMENT OP THE SEAT AND REINS. 
 
 The seat is the first thing to be settled, and it should 
 always be fixed before anything else is done — that is, as 
 soon as the body is placed in the saddle. There are four 
 things necessary to be attended to — first the position of 
 the weight, so as to be sufficiently forward in the saddle ; 
 secondly, the fixing of the knees on the paddle part of the 
 flap; thirdly, the proper length and position of the stir- 
 rup ; and fourthly, the carriage of the body. The weight 
 of the body should be well forward, because the centre of 
 motion is close to the middle of the saddle ; and as the 
 weight is chieflly thrown upon the breech, if the seat is far 
 back it is not in that part, but near the cantle that it is 
 placed. But by sitting well forward, the weight is dis- 
 tributed between the breech, thighs and feet, and the horse 
 is able to rise and fall in his gallop without disturbing 
 his rider. The knees must be well forward to effect this 
 seat, and also well in front of the stirrup-leather; for if 
 they are placed behind them the body is thrown too far 
 back, and the hold is insecure. The object of all young 
 riders should be to get as far forward as possible, so that 
 the knee is not off the saddle ; and they can scarcely over- 
 do this part of the lesson by any effort in their power. 
 The stirrups must not be too short. These should be about 
 the length which will touch the projecting ankle bone, 
 when the legs are placed as above directed, but out of the 
 stirrups, and when they are placed in them the heel should 
 be about an inch and a half below the ball of the foot. 
 This latter part receives the pressure of the stirrup in 
 road riding, but in field-riding or racing, the foot is thrust 
 " home," and the stirrup touches the instep, whilst the 
 pressure is taken by the under part of the arch of the 
 
96 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 foot. The reason of this is that, in leaping, the pressure 
 on the stirrup is ahnost lost, and if the toe only is placed 
 within it, the foot is constantly coming out. Besides this, 
 in the gallop, the attitude is of that nature that the spring 
 of the instep is not wanted, the weight being too much 
 thrown upon the foot, if standing in the stirrups; and if 
 sitting down in the saddle, the feet should scarcely press 
 upon the stirrups at all, and, therefore, the best place for 
 them is where they will be most secure. The body should 
 not be held stifly upright, but, short of this, it can scarce- 
 ly be too still, the loins being slightly arched forward. 
 The legs also should be as motionless as possible, and 
 nearly perpendicular from the knee downwards; but if 
 any thing a little forward, the heel being well depressed, 
 and the toe very slightly turned outward. The shoulder 
 should always be square — that is, at right angles to the 
 road taken ; and whether trotting or galloping, neither of 
 them should be advanced before the other. The reins are 
 to be taken up as soon as the seat is settled, and, during 
 that operation, with a young horseman, the horse should 
 be held quiet by the groom, who stands on the off side with 
 both the snaffle reins in his right hand ; or. if the horse is 
 very fidgety, he may stand in front of him, with a snaifle- 
 rein in each hand ; and this almost always keeps quiet any 
 but a thoroughly vicious horse. 
 
 The groom should also hold the right stirrup for the 
 rider to place his foot in. In gathering the reins up, they 
 are first raised by the right hand, and then placed in the 
 left. The single rein is held by placing all but the fore- 
 finoer between the reins, and then turnins^ them over that 
 finger toward the off side, they are held firmly between it 
 and the thumb. By this mode the hand has only to be 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 97 
 
 opened, and tlie ends of the rein may be laid liold of by 
 the right hand to enable the left to shorten its grasp. 
 When the hand is thus closed upon the rein, the thumb 
 shoiild be pointed to the horse's ears, the little finger near 
 upon the pommel of the saddle, and the elbow close to 
 the side, which last is a necessary consequence of the 
 above position of the hand; so that the equestrian has 
 only to look at this part and see that the thumb points to 
 the ear, with the little finger down on the pommel, and 
 he may be quite sure that his elbow is right. When the 
 hand is held in violation of this rule, the elbow is almost 
 sure to be thrown from the side, and the attitude is there- 
 fore unsightly, besides which there is less control over the 
 mouth by the action of the wrist. With the single rein, 
 the management of the mouth is easy enough ; neverthe- 
 less there ar6 various directions for the purpose, adopted iu 
 different schools, which are dependent upon altogether 
 conflicting principles. Every tyro knows that the horse 
 turns to the left by pulling the left rein, and to the right 
 by pulling the opposite one ; and the problem to be solved 
 is to do this by one hand only. This, in the single rein, 
 is easily effected by raising the thumb toward the right 
 shoulder, when the right rein is to be pulled, or by draw- 
 ing the little finger toward the fork for the left; in both 
 cases by a turn of the wrist, without lifting the whole 
 hand. But, over and above this action on the mouth, and 
 in many cases independent of it, is a movement which, in 
 trained horses, is capable of much greater delicacy, and 
 which depends on the sensibility of the skin of the neck 
 for its due performance. It is effected by turning the 
 whole hand to the right or left, without any wrist action, 
 so as to press the right rein against the neck in order to 
 
98 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 cause a turn to the left, and the left rein against the neck 
 for the opposite purpose ; at the same time rather slacken- 
 ing the rein, so as not to bear upon the mouth by so doing. 
 In this way a horse may be " cantered round a cabbage 
 leaf," as the dealers say, with a much greater degree of 
 nicety and smoothness than by acting on the corner of his 
 mouth. But highly broken horses, such as the military 
 troop-horses, are often too much used to their bits to an- 
 swer to this slight and delicate manipulation; and, there- 
 fore, it is eschewed by Captain Richardson, as well as by 
 Colonel Greenwood. I am well aware that some horses 
 never can be taught it, but must always have the bearing 
 on the mouth before they will turn ; yet, when it can be 
 taught, it makes the animal so tractable and as^reeable to 
 ride that it is a highly desirable accomplishment, and I 
 cannot, therefore, join in condemning its use, but should 
 rejoice if it could in all cases be fully developed. 
 
 The double rein is held in two ways, but the best, in 
 my opinion, is as follows : First, take up the snaffle-rein 
 and place it as before, except that the left rein is to be 
 between the ring and middle fingers ; then raise the curb- 
 rein and hook it on to the little finger ; where it may either 
 be left for use when wanted, or at once drawn over the 
 fore-finger to the proper degree of tightness, and pressed 
 down upon it by the thumb ; in which case the reins 
 should all fall over the off side of the horse. By this 
 mode the curb-rein is always at the command of the right 
 band, and it may be shortened or let out in a moment, 
 which is of constant occurrence in every day's ride. The 
 hand is held as before, with the thumb pointing to the 
 horse's ears; in turning, however, there is much less power 
 of bearing on either side of the bit by raising the thumb 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. U^ 
 
 or lowerino: the little finorer, because the distance between 
 the snaffle-rein is only half what it was, and therefore the 
 mode of turning by pressure upon the neck is doubly de- 
 sirable; and hence its constant adoption in all cases where 
 double reine'l bridles are used, as in the field and on the 
 road. Sometimes to obviate this objection, the snaffle- 
 reins are placed as in the single-reined bridle, outside the 
 little finger, and then the curb is hooked over the ring 
 finger, between the snaffle-reins, so as to allow of the full 
 manipulation of the mouth by the hand, without bearing 
 upon the neck. But the objection to this is that the curb 
 cannot be shortened without releasing the snaffle, and 
 therefore the horse must either be ridden on the curb 
 alone, while this process is being effected, or his head 
 must be loorsed altogether ; whereas in the other mode, his 
 mouth is still under control of the snaffle all the tune that 
 the curb is being let out or taken in. 
 
 THE ORDINARY PACER. 
 The walk is a perfecth^ natural pace to the horse, but it 
 is somewhat altered by use, being quicker and smarter than 
 before breaking, and with the hind legs more brought under 
 the body, in the perfect roadster. In this pace the head 
 should not be too confined, and yet the rider should not 
 entirely leave it uncontrolled ; the finest possible touch is 
 enough, so that on any trip the hand is at once informed of 
 it by the drop of the head, when by a sudden jerk of the 
 bridle, not too forcible, it rouses the horse and prevents his 
 falling. It is not that he is kept up by pulling the rein, 
 but that he is aroused by it and made to exert himself; for 
 many horses seem regardless of falls, and would be down 
 twenty times a day if they were not stimulated by the heel 
 and bit. Confinement of the head in the walk is absolutely 
 
100 
 
 injurious, and more frequently causes a fall than saves one. 
 A good walker will go on nodding his head to each step, 
 more or less as it is a long or short one ; and if this nod- 
 ding is prevented by the heavy hand of the rider, the fore- 
 foot is not properly stretched forward, the step is crippled, 
 and very often the toe strikes the ground ; when if the head 
 were at liberty it would clear it well. In horses which are 
 apt to stumble on the walk, I have generally found that a 
 loose rein with the curb held ready for a check is the safest 
 plan ; and then the horse soon finds that he is punished the 
 moment he stumbles, and in a very short time he learns to 
 recover himself almost before he is reminded. I do not 
 like the spur or the whip so well, because the use of either 
 makes the horse spring forward and often blunder again in 
 his hurry to avoid this kind of punishment. The check 
 of the curb, on the other hand, makes him recover him- 
 self without extra progress or rather by partially stopping 
 him, and thus he is better able to avoid his fall. The 
 body is allowed to yield slightly to the motion of the horse, 
 but not to waddle from side to side as is sometimes seen. 
 Some horses do not stir th*e rider at all, while others throw 
 him about and fatigue him greatly ; and this may gener- 
 ally be foretold when the tail sways much from side to 
 side in the walk, which is caused by the over-long stride 
 of the horse, a desirable accomplishment in the race horse, 
 but not in the lady's horse. 
 
 The trot is altogether an acquired pace, and, in the 
 natural state, is never seen for more than a few yards at a 
 time. In it the fore and hind legs of opposite sides move 
 together and are taken up and put down exactly at the 
 same moment. To start a horse in the trot, take hold of 
 both the reins of the snaffle, and bear firmly, but steadily, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 101 
 
 upon the mouth ; lean slightly forward in the saddle, press 
 the legs against the horse's sides, and use the peculiar click 
 of the tongue, which serves as an encouragement to the 
 horse on all occasions. If properly broken, he will now 
 fall at once into a trot ; but if he breaks into a canter or 
 Scallop, he must be checked, and restrained into a walk or 
 a very slow trot called a "jog-trot." In some cases a horse 
 can canter as slow as he walks and here there is often 
 great difficulty in making him trot, for no restraint short 
 of a total halt will prevent the canter. In such cases, lay- 
 ing hold of an ear will often succeed, by making the an- 
 imal drop his head, which movement interferes with the 
 canter, and generally leads to a trot. Rising in the stirrups 
 with the trot is generally practised in civil life, as being 
 far less fatiguing to both horse and rider, but in the mil- 
 itary schools the opposite style is inculcated, because 
 among a troop of horse it has a very bad effect when a 
 number of men are bobbing up and down, out of all time ; 
 if it were possible for all to rise together, perhaps the offence 
 against military precision might be pardoned; but as 
 horses will not all step together, so the men cannot all rise 
 at the same moment, and the consequence is that they are 
 doomed to bump upon the sheep-skins in a very tiresome 
 manner, fatiguing alike to man and horse. The civilian's 
 moeie is as follows: — At the precise moment when the 
 hind and fore-legs are making their effort to throw the 
 horse forward in progression, the body of the rider is 
 thrown forcibly into the air, in some horses to so great an 
 extent as to make a young rider feel as if he never 
 should come down again. After reaching the utmost 
 height, however, the body falls, and reaches the saddle 
 just in time to catch the next effort and so on as long 
 
102 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 as the trot lasts. In this way the horse absolutely carries 
 no weight at all during half his time, and the action and 
 re-action are of such a nature that the trot is accelerated 
 rather than retarded by the weight. No horse can trot 
 above twelve or thirteen miles an hour without this rising, 
 though he may run or pace in the American style, so that 
 it is not only to save the rider's bones but also to ease the 
 horse, that this practice has been introduced, and has held 
 its ground in spite of the want of military sanction. It is 
 here as with the seat, utility is sacrificed to appearances ; 
 and whenever the long and weak seat of the barrack-yard 
 supplants the firm seat of the civilian, I shall expect to 
 see the rising in the trot abandoned, but certainly not till 
 then. 
 
 In the trot, the foot should bear strongly on the stirrup, 
 with the heel well down and the ball of the foot pressing 
 on the foot-piece of the stirrup so that the elasticity of the 
 ankle takes off the jar, and prevents the double rise, which 
 in some rough horses is very apt to be produced. The 
 knees should always be maintained exactly in the same 
 place, without that shifting motion which is so common 
 with bad riders, and the legs should be held perpendicu- 
 larly from the knee downwards, the chest well forward, the 
 waist in and the rise nearly upright, but slightly forward, 
 and as easily as can be etfected, without effort on the part 
 of the rider, and rather restrainino^ than aidinof to the 
 throw of the horse. The military style, without rising, is 
 eifected by leaving the body as much as possible to find its 
 own level. The knees should not cling to the saddle, the 
 foot should not press forcibly on the stirrup, and the hand 
 should not bear upon the bridle. By attending to these 
 negative directions the rider has only to lean very slight- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 103 
 
 ly back from the perpendicular, and preserve his balance, 
 when practice will do all the rest. 
 
 The canter is, even more than the trot, an unnatural and 
 artificial pace. It can very seldom be taught without 
 setting a horse much upon his haunches, and very rarely 
 indeed without the use of the curb-rein. It is a pace 
 ill which all the legs are lifted and set down, one after the 
 other, in the most methodical manner, the near or off fore 
 leg leading off, as the case may be, but one foot being 
 always in contact with the ground. To start the canter 
 with either leg it is necessary to pull the opposite rein 
 and press the opposite heel. The reason of this is obvious 
 enough. Every horse in starting to canter (and many 
 even in the canter itself), turns himself slightly across 
 his line of progress, in order to enable him to lead with 
 that leg which he thereby advances. Thus, supposing a 
 horse is going to lead off with the off fore leg, he turns 
 his head to the left and his croup to the right, and this 
 easily gets his off leg before and his near leg behind into 
 the line which is being taken. Now, compel him to re- 
 peat this action ; it is only necessary to turn him in this 
 way by pulling his head to the left and. by touching him 
 w^th the left heel, after which he is made to canter by 
 exciting him with the voice or whip, whilst, at the same 
 moment, he is restrained by the curb. When once this 
 lead is commenced, the hold on the curb and pressure 
 on the legs may be quite equal : but if, while the canter 
 is maintained, it is desired to change the leading leg, 
 the horse must be collected and roused by the bit and 
 voice, and then reversing the pull of the rein and the leg- 
 pressure from that previously practised, so as to turn the 
 horse in the opposite way to that in which he was started, 
 
104 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 he will generally be compelled to change his lead, which 
 is called " changing his leg." The seat for the canter is 
 a very easy one, the knees taking a very gentle hold of 
 the saddle, the feet not bearing strongly upon the stirrups, 
 and the body tolerably upright in the saddle. The hands 
 must not be too low in this pace, but should keep a very 
 gentle but constant pressure upon the bit, and should, if 
 there is the slightest tendency to drop the canter, rouse 
 the mouth by a very slight reminder, and also stimulate 
 the fears by the voice or whip. 
 
 The gallop is the most natural of all paces, being seen 
 in all horses while at liberty, from the Shetland pony and 
 Indian "mustang," and the dray horse to the pure breed 
 race horse. It is a succession of leaps, and differs from the 
 canter in one important feature, which separates the one 
 pace from the other. In the description of the latter pace 
 I have said that one foot is always in contact with the 
 ground ; whilst in the gallop, whether fast or slow, there is 
 always an interval in which the whole animal is suspended 
 in the air, without touching the ground. Hence it is not 
 true that the canter is a slow gallop, nor is the gallop a 
 fast canter but the two are totally distinct paces as differ- 
 ent as walking and running in the human subject. There 
 is, however, the same variation in the leading leg, and the 
 same mode of compelling the lead of one particular leg, 
 as well as of causing the change of lead, though it is 
 much more difficult to effect these objects in the faster 
 pace than in the slower one. 
 
 Tho proper seat in the gallop is either to sit down in the 
 saddle or to stand in the stirrups, according to circum- 
 stances. The former is the usual seat, and it is only in 
 racing or in the very fast gallop at other times that the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 105 
 
 latter is adopted. In sitting down, the feet may be either 
 resting on the ball of the toe, as in other paces, or with 
 the stirrup " home " to the boot, as is common in all field 
 riding. The body is thrown easily and slightly back, the 
 knees take firm hold, the rider being careful not to grip so 
 tight as to distress the horse, which fault I have known 
 very muscular men often commit. The hands should be 
 low with sufficient pull at the mouth to restrain him but 
 not to annoy and make him "fight"; and if he is inclined 
 to get his head down too much, or the reverse, they must 
 be raised or lowered accordingly; when standing in the 
 stirrups is to be practised, the weight is thrown upon them, 
 steadying it with the "knees, which should keep firm hold 
 of the saddle flaps. The seat of the body is carried well 
 back, while at the same time the loin is thrown forward ; 
 but by this combined action the weight is not hanging 
 over the shoulder of the horse, as it would be and often is 
 when the breech is raised from the saddle and brought 
 almost over the pommel, with the eyes of the rider look- 
 ing down his horse's forehead, or very nearly so. If a 
 jocky with a good seat is watched, it will be seen that hig 
 leg does not descend straight from the knee, but that it is 
 slightly thrown back from the line, and consequently that 
 his centre of gravity is behind it, so that he can, by stiffen- 
 ing the joint, carry his body as far behind it as his stir- 
 rup is, without ceasing to stand in it. This seat cannot be 
 long maintained without fatigue to the rider, and it is 
 only adopted in racing or in short gallops over hard 
 ground, or a steep hill or any kind of ground calculated to. 
 tire a horse. The varieties of the gallop are, the hand- 
 gallop, the three-quarter gallop, and full gallop, which is 
 capable of still further extension in the "racing set-to." 
 
106 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 They are all, however, modifications of the same pace, 
 varying- only in the velocity with which they are carried 
 out. Besides the paces of the horse which are required 
 for his use by man, there are also certain movements very 
 commonly met with, by no means desirable, and others 
 which are taught him for man's extraordinary purposes; 
 the former are called vices, the latter are more or less the 
 rusult of the manage,' or breaking-school. 
 VICES. 
 The vices are — first, stumbling : secondly, cutting and 
 rearing; thirdly, shying; fourthly, kicking; fifthly, plung, 
 ing; sixthly, lying down; seventhly, shouldering; and 
 eighthly, running away. The managed actions are back- 
 ing, passaging, etc. Stumbling is caused by defective mus- 
 cular action in all cases, though there is no doubt that in 
 many horses this defect is aggravated by lameness, either 
 of the feet or legs, or from defective shoeing. Some 
 horses can never be ridden in safety for many miles, al- 
 though they will **sliow out" with very good action ; and 
 this is caused by the muscles which raise and extend the 
 leg, tiring very rapidly ; after which the ground is not 
 cleared by the toe and when it is struck there is not pow- 
 er to recover from the mistake. Many careless and low 
 goers are constantly striking their feet against stones, but 
 having strong exteriors they draw their feet clear of the 
 obstacle, and easily recover themselves ; whilst those 
 which are differently furnished, although they strike with 
 less force, yet they have no power to help themselves, and 
 therefore they fall. The one kind nia}^ be kept on their 
 legs by constant rousing and severity, but the weak ones 
 are never safe. In the stumbling from lameness or sore- 
 ness the most humane course, as well as the safest, is 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 107 
 
 either to dismount and lead the horse, or to keep him 
 "alive " by the use of the whip or spar. Humanity, tak- 
 ing a middle course by riding quietly, is sure to lick the 
 dust, and the plan should never be attempted. But there 
 are many kinds of careless stumbling ; one arises from the 
 toe touching, although well thrown over; but the knee- 
 action being low, the foot is not cleared. This is not a 
 very dangerous kind, and is generally recovered from. 
 The next is from the foot being put down too far back, 
 and too much on the toe, so that the pastern, instead of 
 settling into its proper place behind the perpendicular of 
 the foot, "knuckles over " in front, and so causes the leg 
 to lose its power of sustaining the weight. Then the 
 horse does not generally fall unless the other leg follows 
 suit ; but it is a very unpleasant accident, and if a horse 
 is liable to it he is never to be considered safe. Such an- 
 imals are very deceptive to the young and inexperienced, 
 because they generally lift their knees high, and lead to 
 the supposition that they are safe and good goers. But 
 if they are watched they will be seen to put their feet 
 down behind a perpendicular line, drawn from, the front 
 of their knees ; and when that is the case the kind of 
 stumbling here alluded to is always to be expected. 
 There is also the stumbling from putting the foot on a 
 rolling stone, which gives way at the moment of bearing 
 the weight, and thus throws the horse off his balance, so 
 as to occasion him to make a mistake with the other leg, 
 which will be greater or less according to his good or bad 
 action. Lastly, there is a stumbling resulting from ten- 
 der soles or frogs, in which the feet being placed upon a 
 sharp stone, so much pain is occasioned that the knee is 
 allowed to give way, and the same effect is produced as in 
 
108 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 the accident caused by a rolling stone, but often in a 
 much more marked degree. 
 
 The remedy for stumbling will, in all cases, depend up- 
 on the cause. If this is from weakness, no care or good 
 riding will prevent a stumble, though it may avert an ab- 
 solute fall by taking care to sit well back, and to be on 
 the guard against being pulled over the shoulder in case 
 of a serious mistake." There is no use in holding a horse 
 hard in such a case ; he should be kept alive but not hur- 
 ried ; because the more tired he is the more likely he is 
 to come down. Great judgment, therefore, will be neces- 
 sary to "nurse him " to his journey's end; and this will 
 be best done by an occasional relief to his back and walk- 
 ing by his side. No one should ride such a horse habitu- 
 ally; but if, unfortunately, he finds himself on him and 
 some miles from home, the above is the best course to 
 pursue. When, however, the stumbling is from decided 
 laziness, the only course is to catch hold of the horse's 
 head, and use the whip, or spur, or both pretty severely. 
 Many horses are quite safe at their top speed on the trot, 
 but at a half trot they are never to be trusted. The ex- 
 perienced horseman readily detects the exact pace which 
 his horse can do with the greatest ease and safety, and 
 keeps him to that. Some can trot down hill safely, but 
 are always tripping on level ground (these are low-ac- 
 tioned horses with pretty good shoulders) ; others, again, 
 always trip going down hill from overshooting themselves, 
 and of course, each must be ridden accordingly. When 
 lameness is the cause of failure, the remedy is either to 
 have the shoe taken off and rectified, if that is the cause, 
 or if in the joints, ligaments or sinews, to give rest and 
 adopt the proper remedies. Cutting is caused by the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 109 
 
 horse touching one leg with the other shoe or foot, and 
 it may be either of the ankle or pastern joint, or of the in- 
 side of the leg, or just below the knee, which last is called 
 the speedy cut. It arises from the leg's being set on 
 slightly awry, so that the action is not straight-forward ; 
 and this is aggravated by weakness or want of condition, 
 so that a horse often cuts when poor, though he is quite 
 free from the vice when high in flesh. The cutting may 
 be either of the fore or hind leg. The remedy is either to 
 alter the shoeing or to apply a boot. 
 
 Rearing is a coltish trick, which is generally lost as 
 the colt grows older ; it is not nearly so common as it 
 used to be, and a bad rearer is not often seen. When in 
 an aggravated form, it is a frightful vice, and with an in- 
 experienced rider may be attended with fatal mischief. 
 In slight cases, it consists in the horse's simply rising a lit- 
 tle before, and dropping again, as if from play only ; but 
 in the worst, it is a systematic attempt to throw the rider, 
 and sometimes the horse goes so far as to throw himself 
 back as well. The remedy for this vice is the martingale, 
 which may either be used with rings running on the snaf- 
 fle-rein, or attached directly to that bit by the ordinary 
 billet and buckle; or again, by means of a running-rein, 
 which commences from the breast-strap of the martingale, 
 and then running through the ring or the snaffle, with a 
 pulley-like action, it is brought back to the hand, and it 
 may thus be tightened or relaxed according to circum- 
 stances, so as to bring the horse's head absolutely down 
 to his brisket, or on the other hand, to give it entire lib- 
 erty, without dismounting. It is a very good plan with 
 an experienced horseman, but its use should not be at- 
 tempted by any other. With a determined brute, noth- 
 
110 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 ing short of this last will prevent rearing; and even it 
 will fail in some cases, for there are some horses which 
 rear with their heads between their fore-legs. Neverthe- 
 less, happily, they are rare exceptions, and with the ma- 
 jority the martingale in some form is efficacious. It 
 should never be put on the curb-rein with rearers, and 
 indeed, a curb is seldom to be used at all with horses ad- 
 dicted to that vice ; they are always made worse by the 
 slightest touch of the bit, and unless they are very much 
 inclined to run away, it is far better to trust to a straight 
 bit or plain snafde, which, by not irritating the mouth, 
 will often induce them to go ' pleasantly, whereas a 
 more severe bit would tempt them to show their temper 
 by rearing. Breaking a bottle of water between the ears, 
 or a severe blow on the same part, may, in some cases, be 
 tried ; but the continued use of the martingale will gen- 
 erally suffice. There is also a mode of curing rearers, 
 sometimes attempted by letting them rise, and then slip- 
 ping off on one side and pulling them back; but it is a 
 dangerous feat for both horse and rider, and has often led 
 to a broken back on the part of the horse, as well as some- 
 times to severe injury to the rider. It is scarcely neces- 
 sary to remark that the rider should, in all cases, lean 
 well forward and relay the bridle while the horse is in the 
 air. 
 
 Shying is sometimes the effect of fear and sometimes of 
 vice, and there are many horses which begin with the for- 
 mer and end with the latter, in consequence of misman- 
 agement. The young co]t is almost always more or less 
 shy, especially if he was brought at once from the retired 
 fields where he was reared, to the streets of a busy town. 
 There are, however, numberless varieties of shyers, some 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. Ill 
 
 being dreadfully alarmed by one kind of object, wbicb to 
 another is not at all forniidable. When a horse finds 
 that he gains his object by turning round, he will often 
 repeat the turning without cause, pretending to be alarmed 
 and looking out for excuses for it. This is not at all 
 uncommon, and with timid riders leads to a discontinuance 
 of the ride, by which the horse gains his end for the time, 
 and repeats the trick on the first occasion. In genuine 
 shying from fear, the eyes are more or less defective ; but 
 sometimes this is not the cause, which is founded upon 
 a general irritability of the nervous system. Thus there 
 are many which never shy at meeting wagons or other 
 similar objects, but which almost drop with fear on the 
 sight of a small bird flying out of a hedge, or any other 
 startling sound. These are also worse, because they give 
 no notice, whereas the ordinary shyer almost always 
 shows by his ears that he is prepared to turn. For shyers 
 the only remedy is to take as little notice as possible, 
 to make light of the occurrence, speak encouragingly yet 
 rather severely, and to get them by the object some how 
 or other. If needful, the aid of the spur and whip may 
 be called in, but not as a punishment. If the horse can 
 be urged by the object at which he is shying without the 
 whip or the spur, so much the better; but if not, he must 
 do so by their use. Whenever fear is the cause of shying 
 punishment only adds to that fear; but when vice has 
 supplanted fear, severity sliould be used to correct it. As 
 a general rule, the whip need never to be used, unless the 
 horse turns absolutely around, and not then unless there 
 is reason to suspect that he is pretending fear. If only 
 he will go by the object, even with a " wide berth," as 
 the sailors say, he may be suffered to go on in his way un- 
 
112 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 punished; and nothing is so bad as the absurd severity 
 which some horseman exercise after having conquered 
 his reluctance and passed the object. At this time he 
 should be praised and patted with all the encouragement 
 which can be given ; and on no account should be taught 
 to make those rushes so commonly seen on the road, from 
 the improper use of the whip and spur. If punishment 
 is necessary at all, it must be used before -hand; but it 
 often happens that the rider cannot spare his whip-hand 
 until the shying is over ; and then, in his passion, he does 
 not reflect that the time has gone by for its employment. 
 
 Kicking is a very unpleasant vice, either in the saddle 
 or in harness, but it is not so dangerous in the former as 
 in the latter. Its nature is too well known to need descrip- 
 tion. It is often the result of play but quite as frequently 
 it arises from a vicious desire to get rid of the rider. The 
 proper mode of treating a kicker is to catch fast hold of 
 the head, and keep it well up, and then to use the whip 
 down the shoulder severely. If the head is not well in 
 hand he will often kick the more but if the head is kept 
 up while the blow is given, he will generally desist. A 
 gag snaffle is very useful with confirmed kickers, as it 
 serves to keep the head up better than any other bit. 
 
 Plunging consists in a series of bounds or springs, by 
 which the horse evidently hopes to relieve himself of his 
 burden. His back is generally rounded, and very often 
 he will " back," or jump off the ground perpendicularly, by 
 which a weak rider is unseated. The remedy is to sit still 
 and keep the head confined, though not too closely. Very 
 often plunging is followed by a fit of kicking, for which 
 the rider should be prepared. If there is reason to expect 
 that a horse will commence this trick, a cloth, rolled like 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 113 
 
 a soldiers cloak and buckled to the front of the saddle, is a 
 great assistance; and lying down is a vice which only- 
 ponies and other obstinate brutes indulge in, and is sel- 
 dom met with in well bred horses. The spur will some- 
 times keep them up, but in bad cases there is no remedy 
 but submission. Sliouldering is also a trick only met 
 with among badly bred horses, though sometimes horses 
 of all breeds, if they have been badly broken, wnll adopt 
 this expedient by attempting to crush the knee against a 
 wall or paling. If, however, the hand and foot are put 
 strongly out, the horse cannot use enough lateral pressure 
 to overcome their resistance, and no harm is done. Run- 
 ning away is only an extreme form of pulling in the gallop, 
 but sometimes it is of a most vicious description, and the 
 horse gallops as if maddened by excitement. It is a most 
 dangerous vice, as it is generally practised at times when 
 it is most inconvenient, as in crowded thoroughfares, etc. 
 For horses which run away, various severe bits have 
 been invented, but nothing has ever yet been introduced 
 v^hich is so successful as the" Bucephelusnose band." ^t is 
 a good plan in determined brutes to make them run to a 
 stand-still, by giving them an up-hill " burster, " which 
 may generally be nfanaged, though there are some which 
 are only made worse by this treatment. Still, it generally 
 s-ucceeds, and most horses are rendered quiet for some 
 time by such an effort; nevertheless, they generally try 
 again as soon as they are fresh, and they are seldom to be 
 trusted with any riders but good horsemen. It is of no 
 use to pull dead at these animals, but it is better to let 
 them go when there is plenty of room, and then to try 
 what a sharp and severe pull will do ; not keeping it up 
 too long, .if effectual, but looiiug the mouth again for 
 
114 
 
 a time, and then trying again. Sometimes, however, there 
 is no room for this, and then the only plan is to try and 
 bring the head romid, either with a view of galloping in 
 a circle, or to run the head against a fence or even a 
 strong gate ; sometimes anything is better than a straight 
 course — as, for instance, into a crowded thoroughfare, 
 where there would be an almost positive certainty of mis- 
 chief; and in such a case it is better to do anything than 
 to persevere in the course which the run-away is taking. 
 Here the horse must be pulled into any insurmountable 
 obstacle ; and all risk must be run of damao^ino^ him or 
 even his rider, who will, however, generally escape with 
 slip;ht bruises if the horse is run full tilt acrainst the ob- 
 ject, and not too obliquely, which will not at all answer 
 the purpose. Backing is necessary for all horses to be 
 taught, though not so often required as in harness-horses. 
 It is always one of the first things drilled into a colt by 
 its breaker, and the finished and broken horse will as a 
 matter of course, readily obey the hand of the rider when 
 he gently draws him back. The pull should not be harder 
 than the particular mouth requires, some horses being 
 easily irritated by too severe a confiiiemeut of the mouth. 
 If a horse obstinately refuses to stir, the bit may be gently 
 "sawed" from side to side, which seldom fails to make 
 him stir. When backing is adopted by the horse with 
 vicious intentions and contrary to the will of his master, 
 it is called "jibbing," and is a most unmanageable trick, 
 for which the remedy is patience. Punishment never 
 answers, and the horse only jibs the more ; but quietly 
 waiting until he is tired, the aniuial will generally give 
 up the figiit, and continue his progress in the desired 
 direction. Passaging is a feat oi horsemanship never 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 115 
 
 used in this country except in the military schools. It is 
 the action of the horse by which he moves sideways, using 
 the two legs of each sjde at a time, and following them up, 
 advancing them to the right or left, by bringing the other 
 two up to them. 
 
 THE RIDE. 
 
 The ride is putting into practice all the directions 
 which have already been given. When the orders have 
 been issued for a horse to be prepared, he is brought to the 
 door ready saddled and bridled. It is the groom's duty 
 to place the saddle properly on ; but it is as well that the 
 equestrian should know how and where to put it on. The 
 common direction is to put the saddle on " one's hand's 
 breadth behind the shoulder blade," but this is too far 
 back, and few sadilles will remain there. It is far better 
 to place it at once where it fits than to give it room to come 
 forward because the girths only become more slack as it 
 shifts, and allow it to press still more forward than it other- 
 wise would ; whereas, if it had been first placed where it 
 naturally belonged or fitted, the girths would have kept 
 tight, and it would have moved no further. Place the 
 saddle where it fits, taking care to have it as far back as 
 it will fit. The bridle should be put on, with the bit 
 neither too high nor too low, in the mouth, and with the 
 throat-lash of the proper tightness, which points can only 
 be learned from experience. After leaving the stable, 
 and if the weather is fine, walking the horse about for a 
 few minutes, the girths will generally require tightening. 
 When the horse is to be mounted, the rider, if he cannot 
 fully depend upon his assistance, should see to his girths, 
 and that his bridle is properly put on, with the curb of 
 
116 THE HOESE OWNEE's 
 
 the right degree of tightness, if he uses a double-reined 
 bridle. The groom brings the horse up to the door, hold- 
 ing it with the left hand by the snaffle-reins, and bearing 
 on the off stirrup to resist the weight, if the rider is a heavy- 
 man, which will prevent the saddle from twisting. The 
 rider then mounts, and puts his horse into a walk, which 
 should always be the pace for the commencement of a 
 ride for pleasure. He may, in this pace, as I have already 
 explained, give his horse considerable liberty of the head, 
 and he will have no difficulty in turning him to the right 
 or left, either by the use of one hand or both, or by bear- 
 ing upon the neck according to the mode to which the 
 horse has been broken. After a short distance, he may 
 practise the various paces, and if he is inclined to learn 
 to ride well, he may at times throw the stirrups across the 
 saddle, and attempt to canter without them. In learn- 
 ing to ride without stirrups, it is a very good plan to have 
 the inside of the trowsers lined with a strip of black leath- 
 er, in the French fashion, which takes a good grip of the 
 saddle; for with cloth trowsers and a smoothly polished 
 saddle, there is very little hold to be obtained, and the 
 balance alone must preserve the seat. With this addi- 
 tion all the paces may soon be mastered without the aid 
 of the stirrups ; but the trot will be the last of necessity 
 because it is by far the most difficult. No rise can then 
 be managed ; and the body must be suffered to take its 
 chance upon the saddle, leaning back to rather more than 
 the perpendicular position, and not attempting to do more 
 than to keep the balance. When riding without stirrups, 
 the feet should be carried in the same position as if they 
 were being used, the heel being carefully depressed, and 
 the toes raised by the muscular power of the leg. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 117 
 
 FEMALE HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 The saddlery for the use of the ladies is similar in prin- 
 ciple to that devoted to the gentleman's riding, with the 
 exception that the bits and reins of the bridle are lighter 
 and more ornamental, and the saddle furnished with 
 crutches for side-riding; the reins are narower than 
 those used by gentlemen, bat otherwise the same. The 
 saddle should be carefully fitted to the horse, and there 
 should always be a third crutch, the use of which will 
 hereafter be explained There is an extra leather girth, 
 which keeps the flaps of the saddle in their places. The 
 stirrup may either be like a man's, with a lining of leath- 
 er or velvet, or it may be a slipper, which is safer, and 
 also easier to the foot. The lady's whip is a light affair ; 
 but as her horse ought seldom to require punishment, it 
 is carried more to threaten than to give punishment. A 
 spur may be added for a lady's use ; it is sometimes need- 
 ful for the purpose of giving a stimulus at the right mo- 
 ment. If used, it is buckled on to the boot, and a small 
 opening is made in the habit^ with a string attached to 
 the inside, which is then tied around the ankle, and thus 
 keeps the spur always projecting beyond the folds of the 
 habit. A nose-martingale is generally added for orna- 
 ment ; but no horse which throws his head up is fit for a 
 lady's use. The lady's horse ought to be the most per- 
 fect of goers, instead of being, as it often is, a stupid brute, 
 fit only for a dray. 
 
 Many men think that any horse gifted with a neat out- 
 line will carry a lady; but it is a great mistake ; and if 
 the ladies themselves had the choice of horses, they would 
 soon decide to the contrary. The only thing in their fa- 
 
118 THE HORSE OWNER 
 
 vor, in choosing a lady's Jiorse, is that the weight to be 
 carried is generally light, and therefore a horse calcula- 
 ted to carry them is seldom fit to mount a man, because 
 the weight of the male sex is generally so much above 
 that of an equestrian lady. Few of this sex who ride are 
 above one hundred and thirty pounds, and most are be- 
 low that weight. But in point of soundness, action, mouth 
 and temper, the lady's horse should be unimpeachable. 
 A gentleman's horse may be good, yet wholly unable to 
 canter, and so formed that he cannot be taught; he, 
 therefore, is unsuited to a lady ; but, on the other hand, 
 every lady's horse should do all his paces well. Many 
 ladies, it is true, never trot ; but they should not be fur- 
 nished with the excuse th:it they cannot because their 
 horses will not. In size the lady's horse should be about 
 fifteen hands or from fourteen and a half to fifteen and a 
 half; less than this allows the habit to trail, in the dirt 
 and more makes the horse too lofty and unwieldy for a 
 laily's use. In breaking the lady's horse, if he is of good 
 temper and fine m )uth, little need be done to make him 
 canter easily, and with the right leg foremost. This is nec- 
 essary, because the other leg is uncomfortable to the rider 
 from her side position on the saddle ; the breaker, there- 
 fore, should adopt the means already described, and per- 
 severe until the horse is quite accustomed to the pace, 
 and habitually starts off with the right leg. He should 
 also bend him thoroughly, so as to make him canter well 
 on his hind legs, and not with the disturbed aotion which 
 one so often sees. The curb must be used for this pur- 
 pose, but without bearing too strongly up )n it ; the horse 
 must be brought to his paces by fine handling rather than 
 by force, and by occasional pressure, which he will yield 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 119 
 
 to and play with if allowed, rather than by a dead pull. 
 In this way, by taking advantage of everv inch yielded, 
 and yet not going too far, the hea 1 is gradually brought 
 in and the hind legs as gradually are thrust forward, so as 
 instinctively to steady the mouth and prevent the pressure 
 which is feared. When this " sitting on the haunches " is 
 accomplished, a horse-cloth may be strapped on the near 
 side of the saddle, to accustom him to the flapping of the 
 habit; but I have always found, in an ordinarily good-tem- 
 pered horse, that if the paces and mouth were all perfect, 
 the habit is sure to be borne. 
 
 It is a kind of excuse which gentlemen are too apt to 
 make, that their horses have never carried a lady ; but if 
 they will carry a gentleman quietly, they will always car- 
 ry a lady in the same style, though they may not perhaps 
 be suitable to her seat or hand. The directions for hold- 
 ing the reins, and for tlieir use, already given, apply 
 equally well to ladies; the only difference being that the 
 knee prevents the hand being lowered to the pommel of 
 the saddle. This is one reason why the neck requires to 
 be more bent than for the gentleman's use, because, if it 
 is straight, or at all ewe-necked, the hands being high 
 raise the head into the air, and make the horse more of a 
 •'star gazer" than he otherwise would be. Many ladies 
 hold the reins as in driving, the directions for which are 
 given elsewhere. (See Driving.) It is in some respects 
 better, because it allows the hand to be lower than in the 
 gentleman's mode, and the ends of the reins fall better 
 over the habit. In mounting, the horse is held steadily, 
 as for a gentleman's use taking care to keep him v/ell up 
 to the place where the lady stands, from which he is very 
 apt to slide away. The gentleman assistant then places 
 
120 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 his right hand on his right knee, or a little below it, and 
 receives the lady's left foot, Previously to this, she 
 should have taken the rein in her right hand, which is 
 placed on the middle crutch ; then with her left on the 
 gentleman's shoulder, and her foot in his hand, she makes 
 a spring from the ground, and immediately stiffens her 
 left leg, using his hand, steadied by his knee, as a second 
 foundation for a spring : and then she is easily lifted to 
 her seat by the hand following and finishing her spring 
 with what little force is required. As she rises, the hand 
 still keeps hold of the crutch, which throws the body side- 
 ways on the saddle, and then she lifts her right knee over 
 the middle crutch. After this she lifts herself up from 
 the saddle, and the gentleman draws her habit from un- 
 der her until smooth; he then places her left foot in the 
 stirrup, including with it a fold of her habit, and she 
 is firmly seated, and should take her reins, and use them 
 as directed for the gentleman. The great mistake which 
 is constantly made in mounting is in the use of the lady's 
 knee, which should be carefully straightened the moment 
 it can be effected ; for if kept bent it requires great power 
 to lift a lady into the saddle, whereas, with a good spring 
 a'ul a straight knee, she ought to weigh but a few pounds 
 in the iiand. 
 
 The lady's seat is very commonly supposed to be a weak 
 one, and to depend entirely upon balance, but this is the 
 greatest possible mistake ; and there ean be no doubt from 
 what is seen in private, as well as in the circus, that it 
 requires as great an effort of the horse to dislodge a good 
 female rider, as to produce the same effect upon a gentle- 
 man. Even with the old single cratch, there was a good 
 hold with the leg, but now that the third is added, the grip 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 121 
 
 is really a firm one. When this is not used, the crutch 
 is laid hold of by the right leg, and pinched between 
 the calf of the leg and the thigh, so as to afford a 
 firm and steady hold for the whole body, especially when 
 aided by the stirrups. But this latter support merely pre- 
 serves the balance, and is useful also in trotting; it does 
 not at all give a firm, steady seat, though it adds to one 
 already obtained by the knee. When two crutches are 
 used, the leg is brought back so far as to grasp the crutch 
 as before, but between the two knees the two crutches are 
 firndy laid hold of, the upper one being under the right 
 knee, and the lower one above the left. The right knee 
 hooked over the crutch keeps the body from slipping 
 backwards, whilst the left keeps it from a forward mo- 
 tion, and thus the proper position is maintained. In all 
 cases, the right foot should be hept back, and the point 
 of the toe should scarcely be visible. These points should 
 be carefully kept in view by all lady riders, and they 
 should learn as soon as possible to steady themselves by 
 ithis grasp of the crutches without reference to the stirrup- 
 iron. In spite of her side-seat, the body should be square 
 to the front, with the elbow easily bent and preserved in 
 its proper position by the same precaution. ''J.'he wdiip is 
 generally keld in the right hand, with the lash pointing 
 forward, and toward the left, and by this position it may 
 be used on any part of the horse's body by reaching over 
 to the left and cutting before or behind the saddle, or with 
 great ease on the right side. Its use may, therefore, in all 
 cases be substituted for the pressure of the leg in the 
 description of the modes of effecting the change of leg, 
 turning to the left or right, or leading with either leg. 
 With this substitution, and with the caution against all 
 
122 THE HORSE OWNER'S 
 
 violent attempts at coercion, whicli are better carried out 
 by the fine hand and delicate tact of the lady, all the 
 feats which man can perform may well be imitated by 
 her. In dismounting the horse is brought to a dead stop, 
 and his head held by an assistant; the lady then turns 
 her knee back again from the position between the out- 
 side crutch, takes her foot out of the stirrup, and sits com- 
 pletely sideways ; she then puts her left hand on the gen- 
 tleman's shoulder, who places his right arm around her 
 waist, and lightly assists her to the ground, 
 
 DRIVING. 
 
 Driving a single horse is a very simple process, and re- 
 quires only a good hand and eye. The reins are held 
 differently from riding ; the near rein passing over the 
 fore-finger, and the off between it and the middle finger 
 and then through the hand, descending from the palm 
 by the side of the knees. The thumb keeps the near rein 
 firmly against the forefinger, and 1 have always found it 
 a good plan to pass both reins out of the hand between 
 the little and ring fingers, so that without keeping the 
 thumb very firmly fixed, they do not slip through the 
 fingers when the horse makes a mistake. This has saved 
 me many an accident, because when a person is tired with 
 driving many miles and the attention flags, a horse in 
 making a mistake is not checked till it is too late, in 
 consequence of the thumb and fore-finger suffering the 
 rein to slip some inches before it is held firmly between 
 them ; but when passing through an additional pair of 
 fingers, and maki)ig an angle in oider to do this, it is as- 
 tonishing how firmly the reins are held, and yet with how 
 much less fatigue to the hand. The bearing-rein is now 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 123 
 
 almost totally out of use in a single harness, where it is no 
 more needed than for riding, because the driver has even 
 more command of the mouth than if he were in the sad- 
 dle. There is no doubt that a bearing rein is better than 
 a careless driver ; but with ordinary care the horse is 
 saved by a slight check, which does not keep him up, but 
 makes him keep himself up. This he is partly prevented 
 from doing from the confinement of the head, caused by 
 the bearing rein ; and, therefore, although it is useful in 
 driving the horse to hold the head up, it is injurious to an 
 equal extent by confining him from that quick exertion 
 of his power, which might save him from a fall. It is 
 true that many old horses having been used to lean upon 
 the bearing- rein — can not safely be driven without; but 
 in most of those which have never been accustomed to its 
 use, it may safely be dispensed with. I have had some 
 few which never could be trusted without a bearing-rein 
 broken in carefully for me ; but this was from defective 
 action, and from that straight-necked form which is almost 
 sure to lead to a heavy hanging upon the bit. 
 
 It is astonishing how seldom one sees a city horse down 
 now as compared with former years, when this rein was in 
 general use ; and yet those horses are quite as hard worked 
 as ever, and often with scarcely one good leg out of the 
 four. But with their heads at liberty, and only a double 
 reined snaffle, they rarely make a mistake ; or, if they do 
 they are almost sure to save themselves from it. Too tight 
 a rein is quite as bad as holding it too loose, and a gagged 
 horse will be so confined in his action as to be always mak- 
 ing mistakes. The head should have a tolerable degree of 
 liberty, the mouth just fee.ing the hand, so as in a good 
 mouth to lead to that playing with the bit which is the 
 
124 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 perfection of breaking and driving. By this means that 
 tendency to keep within the bit, and to avoid its pressure 
 which a fine mouth will always show ; and yet, when 
 there is high courage, a constant desire to pass forward 
 as soon as the hand is at all relaxed ; up a steep hill, the 
 head should have entire liberty, while down-hill the hand 
 should be shortened upon the rein, and with his knees 
 straight, and the feet well out, the driver should be pre- 
 pared for a mistake, and ready to assist if it is made, not 
 by violently dragging at the head, but by checking suffl- 
 ciently without gagging the horse. The mere avoiding 
 of other vehicles in meeting or passing is too simple an 
 affair to require minute description. In driving a pair, 
 the great art consists in the putting them together, so as 
 to draw equally, and to step together. To do this well, 
 the horses must match in action and temper, two ponies 
 being much better than a free tempered horse, with a 
 horse with but little spirit ; because, in this case, the whip 
 applied to the one only makes the other more free, and as 
 a consequence, it is impossible to make them draw equal- 
 ly. In some cases, where tvvo horses are exactly equally 
 matched, the coupling-reins must both be of equal length ; 
 but this is seldom the case; and when they do not do an 
 equal amount of work, the coupling-rein of the free one 
 must be taken up,, and that of the idle horse let out. 
 In watching the working of the two horses, the pole pieces 
 should always be the guide ; and if both are slack, with 
 the end of the pole steady, and neither horse shouldering 
 it, the driver may rest contented that each of his horses is 
 doino- his share ; if, however, the pole is shouldered by 
 either, that horse is a rogue, and is making the other do 
 more than his share, keeping the pole straight by the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 125 
 
 pressure of his slioulder instead of pnllinjy at the traces. 
 Oil the otlier hainl if eitlier horse is palling away from 
 the pole, and straining at the pole-piece, he is doing more 
 than his share, and his coupling-rein must be taken in ac- 
 cordingly. Sometimes both shoulder the pole, or spread 
 from it, which are equally unsightly habits, and may gen- 
 erally be cured by an alteration of the coupling-reins of 
 both horses, letting them out for the shouldering and tak- 
 ing them in for the opposite.bad habit. The reins are held 
 for double-harness as for single. Bearing-reins are more 
 necessary here than in single harness, because there is 
 not the same ini'nediate command of a horse ; but in toler- 
 ably active and safe goers there is little necessity for 
 them. It is only when horses stand about much that 
 they are wanted, and then only for display j but for this 
 they certainly are of service, as the horse stands in a 
 very proud and handsome attitude when "borne up," 
 and the pair match much better than when they are 
 suffered to stand at ease. In driving a pair, it should 
 always be remembered that there are two methods of 
 driving round a curve, one by pulling the inside rein, 
 and the other by hitting the outside horse ; and these two 
 should generally be combined, graduating the use of the 
 whip by the thinness of the skin of the horse. In all cases 
 the whip is required* in double-harness, if not to drive 
 horses when thoroughly put together, yet to make them 
 pull equally ; and there are few pairs which do not occa- 
 sionally want a little reminding of their duties. A con- 
 stant change from one side to the other is a prevention of 
 those tricks and bad habits which horses get into if they 
 are always kept to one side only. The coachman should, 
 therefore, change them every now and then, and back 
 
126 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 again, SO as to make what was a puller from the pole 
 rather bear toward it than otherwise when put on the 
 other side. Various devices are used by old hands for 
 curing vices, which the fore pai t of this book explains. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 127 
 
 BY-LAWS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 National Association for the Promotion of the Interests of the 
 Amcriean Trotting Turf. 
 
 Akticle 1. Name. This Association shall be known un- 
 der the name of the " National Association for the promotion 
 of the interests of the American Trotting Turf," 
 
 Akticle 2. Object. This Association shall have for its 
 principal object, the prevention, detection and punishment 
 of frauds on the Trotting Turf of America, and to elevate the 
 standard of trotting. 
 
 Article 3. Officers. The officers of this Association shall 
 consist of a President, as many Vice-Presidents as there are 
 associated courses repesented. Secretary and Treasurer 
 The duties of the Secretary and Treasurer shall be discharged 
 by one and the same person. 
 
 Article 4. President. The President shall be a member 
 of the Board of Appeals, and, when present, shall preside at 
 all meetings of the Association and of the Board of Appeals, 
 and shall have the casting vote at such meetings. 
 
 Article 5, Vice-Presidents. It shall be the duty of the 
 Vice-Presidents to see that the Secretary is furnished with a 
 statement of all official acts of the executive officers of their 
 respective courses, relating to this Association; and at the 
 end of the trotting season, each year, to prepare a review of 
 the whole, together with an official summary of all races upon 
 their respective courses : said summary shall contain the 
 date, the amount or value of the purse, match or sweepstake, 
 the full terms and conditions of the race ; the name of the 
 person nominating each horse ; the name of each driver, and 
 the color, sex and name of each horse entered; the position 
 
128 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 of each and every horse in each heat; the drawn, distanced 
 and ruled out horses ; the official time of each and every heat ; 
 the names of the Judges, and such notes and remarks as are 
 necessary for a plain comprehension of the whole. They 
 shall also furnish a list of all persons that have been fined, 
 suspended or expelled, together with the amount of fines and 
 term of suspension; and shall furnish a list of the officers of 
 their respective associations or courses, with their post office 
 address. 
 
 Article 6. Secretary and Treasurer. It shall be the duty 
 of the Secretary, Avhen present, to act as Secretary at all 
 meetings of the Association and Board of Appeals. He shall 
 keep a record, to be kept in a book for that purpose, of all the 
 proceedings of such meetings ; and, by order of the President, 
 call all meetings of the Association and Board, and attend to 
 all correspondence relating to the afiairs of the Association- 
 He shall furnish each associated course with a written or 
 printed copy of the proceedings of all the meetings of the 
 Association and. Board of Appeals; and, at the close of each 
 year, he shall compile and arrange an official record, which 
 shall contain the proceedings in detail of all meetings of this 
 Association and Board of Appeals, during the year; a com- 
 plete record of all races over each and all the associate cours- 
 es ; a complete list of persons and horses that have been fined, 
 suspended or expelled, together with the amount of fines and 
 term of suspension, and such other matters as may be of in- 
 terest and service to the Association. Of the matter so col- 
 lected, he shall have prepared at least one printed copy for 
 each of the associated courses, and as many more as the 
 Board of Appeals may, in their judgment, deem expedient; 
 said last mentioned copies to be disposed of by sale, for the 
 benefit of the Association, or in such other manner as the 
 Board of Appeals may direct. 
 
 And in his capacity as Treasurer, he shall receive nnd take 
 charge of all monies that may be due to the Association, and 
 make therefrom such disbursements in payment of demands 
 growing out of the legitimate transactions of the Association, 
 as may be sanctioned by the Board of Ajopeals. He shall 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 129 
 
 keep full, accurate and distinct accounts of his receipts and 
 disbursements, and shall prepare a statement at the end of 
 each year, (and as much oftener as the Board of Appeals may 
 require,) showing the receipts, expenses and the financial 
 condition of the Association. 
 
 AuTiCLE 7. Board of Appeals. The board of Appeals shall 
 consist of nine (9) members, of whom the President shall be 
 one, and shall have semi-annual meetings at the office of the 
 Secretary, viz.' : the second Tuesday in July and January. 
 Special meetings may be called whenever deemed necessary 
 by the President; and at all meetings, whether regular or 
 special, four (4) members of the Board shall constitute a quo- 
 ram for the transaction of business. Due notice of all meet- 
 ings in manner provided for notice of Association meetings 
 shall be given by the Secretary to each member of the board. 
 
 The Board of Appeals shall have the general management 
 control and superintendence of the afiairs of this Association, 
 subject to the rules, regulations and by-laws, and to the Sec- 
 retary must be addressed all charges against any member of 
 this Association. They shall examine all evidence of fraud 
 or other matters relating to the turf that is brought before 
 them, and shall take such measures to ascertain the truth or 
 falsity of ail charges as in their judgment is deemed necessa- 
 ry and proper. 
 
 The Board of Appeals shall have power to call a new con- 
 gress whenever deemed necessary to alter, annul, amend or 
 add to these rules. They shall also be entitled to the privi- 
 lege of honorary membership on the grounds and premises 
 of all the associated courses. 
 
 Article 8. Delegation. A delegation to a general con- 
 gress shall consist of one or more persons, not exceeding 
 three", duly authorized in writing by the President or Secre- 
 tary of their respective associations, or proprietor or proprie- 
 tors of individual courses. 
 
 Article 9. Admission of Members. All applications for 
 admission to this Association must be made in writing, duly 
 signed and addressed to the Secretary of the Board of Ap- 
 
130 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 peals, who alone are authorized to admit members. All new 
 members shall abide by all previous action of this Associa- 
 tion, a copy of which shall be furnished them by the Secretary. 
 
 Article 10. Fee of Membership. The fee of membership 
 shall be determined by the Board of Appeals, and shall be 
 payable on or before the first day of April in each year. 
 
 Article 11. Forfeiture of Membership. An association 
 having once been Jidmitted: shall continue a member upon 
 the prompt payment of dues for the succeeding year, on or 
 before its commencement, unless expelled by vote of the 
 Board of Appeals, for a disobedience of the rules and regula- 
 tions or by-laws of this Association. 
 
 Article 12. Dtdies of Members. It shall be the duty of 
 each member to see that the rules, regulaticms and by-laws 
 of this Association are rigidly enforced upon their respective 
 courses. 
 
 Members shall not allow their courses to be used for exhi- 
 bitions of a character degrading to the public standing of the 
 National Association, and they shall be held responsible for 
 any violation of the rules of this Association. 
 
 They shall keep on file all letters, entries and communica- 
 tions relating to their respective courses for future reference. 
 
 They shall furnish each owner, trainer, rider or driver, 
 with a copy of the rules of this Association, if so requested, 
 and shall have at least one copy posted in some conspicuous 
 place in the Judges' stand for the covenience of the Judges. 
 
 Article 13. Clerk of the Course. It shall be the duty of 
 each member to provide the services of a competent person 
 to assist the Judges in each and every race upon their respec- 
 tive courses, who shall be styled the Clerk of the Course. 
 He shall understand the rules of this Association, and be able 
 to give any information in regard to them that may be re- 
 quired by the Judges. 
 
 He may assist in weighing riders or drivers, assigning the 
 position of horses before the race, or other similar duties at 
 the request of the Judges ; and shall keep a book in which 
 shall be recorded a description of the dress or colors of each 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 131 
 
 rider or driver, and tiie weight carried ; he shall note the time 
 when a heat is hnishcul, and shall notify the Judges, or ring 
 the hell at the expiration of the time allowed between heats; 
 he maj' assist the Judges in placing the horses at the linish 
 of a heat. He shall record in a book to be kept for that pur- 
 pose, an account of every heat, in the following form, to wit: 
 First — all horses entered, and the name of the riders or driv- 
 ers ; next, the starting horses and the positions assigned them ; 
 next, a record of each heat, givmg the position of each horse 
 at the finish; then the official time of each heat; and, at the 
 end, an official summary of the race, giving the drawn, dis- 
 tanced and ruled out horses, if any there be. He shall record 
 all protests, fines, penalties and appeals. This book shall be 
 signed by the Judges, and shall constitute the official record. 
 
 Article 14. Annual Meetings. The annual meetings of 
 this Association shall be held the first Wednesday in February 
 in each year, at such place as may be chosen at the annual 
 meeting next preceding ; a written or printed notice of each 
 meeting shall be mailed, postage paid, and addressed by the 
 Secrertary to each member, at least thirty days prior to such 
 meeting; and only those associations or courses shall be en- 
 titled to be represented at such annual meetings as may, ac- 
 cording to the books of the Association, have been members 
 for six months next preceding such meeting. Each mem- 
 ber shall be entitled to one vote, and they may vote by dele- 
 gates duly authorized, or in writing as they prefer. 
 
 Article 15. Special Meetings. Special meetings of the 
 Association shall be called by the Secretary, whenever re- 
 quested by the Board of Appeals, or in writing by a majority 
 of the members, and fifteen days notice shall be given by the 
 Secretary, to each member, of special meetings in the man- 
 ner provided for notice of annual meetings; one-fourth of 
 the members shall be represented to constitute a quorum for 
 the transaction of business in any special meeting. 
 
 Article 16. Election of Officers. The President and Board 
 of Appeals shall be chosen at the inaugural meeting of the 
 Association, and annually thereafter, and shall retain their 
 respective offices until their successors are appointed. In 
 
132 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 case of the resignation or death of any of their members, the 
 Board of Appeals shall have power to fill vacancies until the 
 next election. i 
 
 The Vice-President shall be chosen annuall}^ by'the execu- 
 tive officers of their respective associations or courses, in 
 such manner as they may elect, and shall retain their office 
 until a successor is appointed. Notices of all such elections 
 shall be given to the Secretary of this Association within 
 thirty (30) days thereafter. 
 
 The Secretary and Treasurer shall be elected by the Board 
 of Appeals, and shall hold his office until a successor is ap- 
 pointed. • 
 
 Article 17. Entries. The hour for closing the entries of 
 all parses or premiums offered by any of the associated cours- 
 es shall be 9 o'clock, P. M. All letters of entries bearing 
 postmark the date of closing, shall be eligible. 
 
 AiiTiCLE 18. Fines. All fines shall revert to the National 
 Association, and shall be paid to the Treasurer upon demand. 
 
 Article 19. Length of Tracks. All members of this As- 
 sociation shall, upon demand, furnish the Secretary with the 
 statement of a competent civil engineer, who shall certify 
 under oath the exact distance of their resyective tracks, 
 measured just three feet from the pole — that is to say, the in- 
 side fence or ditch. These certificates shall be endorsed by 
 the proper officer of the course designated, and shall be plac- 
 ed upon the records of this Association. 
 
 Article 20. . By-Laws. Each Association may be govern- 
 ed by its own by-laws, provided they do not conflict with 
 these, or with the rules and regulations adopted by this As- 
 sociation. 
 
 J These by-laws may be amended whenever required by two. 
 thirds of the members; but notice of such amendment shall 
 be given in the call of the meeting at which they are to be 
 submitted. 
 
 A true copy from the record, March 9, 1871. 
 Attest — 
 
 George Smith, 
 
 Secretary, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 133 
 
 RULES AND REGULATIONS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION 
 
 FOR THE PR0:M0TI0N" OF THE INTERESTS OF 
 THE AMERICAN TROTTING TURF. 
 
 Enacted by the National Association at the An- 
 nual Meeting, held at Buffalo, New York, on 
 THE FIRST Wednesday in Febkuary, 1871. 
 
 Rule 1. Mandate. All trotting and pacing engagements 
 and performances over the several courses, which are, or 
 sliall be represented by membership in the " National As- 
 sociation FOR THE Promotion op the Interests of the 
 American Trotting Turf," and each and every person who 
 shall, in any way, be concerned or employed therein, as well 
 as all associations and proprietors themselves who are or 
 shall become members of said National Association, shall be 
 governed by the following rules from and after February 1st, 
 1871 : [See, also. Articles 12 and 13 of By-Laws.] 
 
 Rule 2. Entries. All entries for premiums must be made 
 under cover, enclosing the entrance-money for purses and 
 forfeits in sweepstakes, and then sealed and addressed to or 
 deposited with the Secretary, or some person authorized to 
 receive the same, at such time and place as the associa- 
 tions may have prescribed. Notices of intention to enter 
 will be received by talegraph up to the hour advertised for 
 
lo4 THE HOESE OVv'NEE's 
 
 closing, and all such entries shall be eligible, provided the 
 entrance fee specified shall be paid in due course, by mail or 
 otherwise. [See, also, Art. IT of By-Laws.] 
 
 It shall be the duty of the Secretary, or other person au- 
 thorized, to prepare the list of entries for publication, com- 
 prising all such information in a comprehensive manner, 
 for the enlightenment of the general public and parties to the 
 race; and all entries, as aforesaid, shall be opened and an- 
 nounced at a public meeting, of which reasonable notice by 
 advertisement or otherwise, shall be given to the parties in 
 interest. 
 
 Rule 3. Entrance Fee. The entrance fee shall be ten per 
 cent, of tlie purse, unless otherwise specified; and any per- 
 son refusing to pay his entrance dues upon demand by the 
 proper authority, shall, together with his horse or horses, be 
 suspended until they are paid in full, with an addition of ten 
 per cent, penalty, and interest at seven per cent, per an- 
 num, until paid. The penalty to go to the National As- 
 sociation. 
 
 Rule 4. How inany to Enter. In all purses, three'or more 
 entries are required, and two to start, unless otherwise 
 specified. 
 
 Rule 5. Horses to be Eligible when Entries Close. A horse 
 shall not be eligible to start in any race, that has beaten the 
 time advertised, prior to the closing of the entries for the 
 race in which he is entered. 
 
 Horses shall not be eligible if the time specified has been 
 beaten by them at a greater distance; that is, a horse hav- 
 ing made two miles in five minutes is eligible for a 2.30 race, 
 but not eligible for a race slower than that time. 
 
 Rule 6. Name and Description of Each Horse Required. 
 An accurate and satisfictory description of each entry will 
 be required, and shall be in tlie following form, to wit. : 
 Color. The color and marks shall be accurately given. 
 Sex. It shall be distinctly stated whether the entry be a 
 stallion, mare or gelding, and the names of the sire and dam 
 shall be given when known. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 135 
 
 Name of Horse. Evory horse shall be named, and the 
 name correctly and plainly Avritten in the entry; and if the 
 horse has trotted in a race under a dilierent name within two 
 years, siicli former name or names, must, be given. If a 
 horse has trotted in any race, Avithout a name, mention must 
 be made in the entry of a sufficient number of his or her most 
 recent performances, to enable persons interested to identi- 
 fy the horse; provided that it shall not be necessary to fur- 
 nish any one association or proprietor with the same record 
 the second time. In entries and nominations hereafter made , 
 the Avords " No name" shall not be received as a name. 
 Neither shall such descriptive Avords as "bay horse," "grey 
 mare," etc., be alloAved as names. 
 
 A horse haA'ing once been named, shall not again start in 
 a'race on any course in the United States or Canadas, Avith_ 
 out a name, or under a difl'erent name, unless the foregoing 
 provisions have been complied Avith. 
 
 Double Teams. In all double-team races, the entry must 
 contain the name and description of each horse, in the man- 
 ner provided for entry of single horses. 
 
 Rule 7. 0}nncr''s Mwie and Address. The post office ad- 
 dress in full of the person or persons in Avhose name an entry 
 is made, and 11 lie or tliey be not the oAvner, then that of the 
 OAvner or oAvners also, must accompany each nomination. 
 
 Rule 8, Entries that Cannot Start. As many horses may 
 be entered by one oAvner, or as many horses trained in the 
 same stable as may be desired, but only one that has been 
 OAvned or controlled in AAiiole or in part by the same person 
 or persons, or trained in the same stable within ten days pre- 
 vious to the race, can start in any race of heats. 
 
 Rule 9. No Purse for a " Walk Over.'''' No purse Avill be 
 given for a " Avalk over," but in cases where only one of the 
 horses entered for any premium shall appear on the course, 
 he shall be entitled to his OAvn entrance money and to one- 
 half of the entrance money received from all other horses 
 entered for said premium. 
 
 Rule 10. In case of Death Engagements Void. All engage- 
 
136 THE HORSE OWNERS 
 
 ments are void upon the decease of either party or horse, so 
 far as they shall affect the deceased party or horse ; bat for- 
 feits or matches made play or pay, shall not be affected by 
 the death of a horse. 
 
 Rule U. Match Races. In all match races these rules 
 shall govern, unless the contrary be expressly stipulated and 
 assented to by the club, association, or proprietors of the 
 course over which the race is to come off. 
 
 Rule 12. When' Matches become Play or Pay. In all 
 matches made to come off over any of these courses, the par- 
 ties shall place the amount of the match in the hands of the 
 stakeholder one day before the event (omitting Sunday) is to 
 come oft*, at such time and place a? the club, association or 
 proprietor, upon application may determine, and the race 
 shall then become play or pay. 
 
 Rule 13. Purse or Stake Wrongfully Obtained. A person 
 obtaining a stake or purse through fraud, shall return it to 
 the Treasurer upon demand within one year, or be punished 
 as follows : He, together with all the parties interested, and 
 the horse or horses, shall be expelled until such demand is 
 complied with, and such stake or purse shall be awarded to 
 the party justly entitled to the same. 
 
 Rule 14. Fraudulent Entries, or Meddling with Horses. 
 Any person found guilty of dosing or tampering with any 
 horse, or of making a fraudulent entry of any horse, or of 
 disguising a horse with intent to conceal his identity, or be- 
 ing in any way concerned in such a transaction, shall be 
 punished by the forfeiture of entrance money and expulsion ; 
 and any horse that shall have been painted or disguised, to 
 represent another or a different horse, or shall have been en- 
 tered in a purse in which he does not belong, shall be ex- 
 pelled. 
 
 Rule 15. Reivard. A reward of $ 50 will be paid to the 
 person who shall first give information leading to the detec- 
 tion and conviction of any fraudulent entry and the parties 
 thereto, to be paid out of the funds of the National Associa- 
 tion for the Promotion of the Interests of tlie American Trot- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 137 
 
 ting Tarf, by the Treasurer, npon the decision and order of 
 the Board of Appeals ; provided, that this shall not be con- 
 strued to extend to courses outside of this Association. 
 
 Rule 16. Protests. Protests may be made verbally before 
 or during a race, and shall be reduced to writing, and shall 
 contain at least on(; specific charge, and a statement of Ihe 
 evidence upon which it is based, rwid shall be filed with the 
 Judges, Association or] Proprietor, before the close of the 
 meeting. The Judges shall in every case of protest demand 
 that the rider or driver and the owner or owners, if present, 
 shall immediately testify under oath, in the manner herein- 
 after provided; and in case of their refusal to do so, the 
 horse shall not be allowed thereupon to start or continue in 
 that race, but shall be considered and declared ruled out, 
 with forfeit of entrance money. 
 
 But if they do comply and take the oath, as herein re- 
 quired, unless the Judges find evidence to warrant excluding 
 tlie horse, they shall allow him to start, or continue in the 
 race, under protest, and the premium, if any is won by that 
 horse, shall be retained a sufficient length of time (say three 
 weeks,) to allow tne parties interested a chance to sustain 
 the allegations of the protest, and all outside bets on such 
 horse shall be held in abeyance pending the decision of such 
 protest, and the Judges shall waive the application of a dis- 
 tance as to all other- horses in any heat which such protested 
 horse shall win. And when a protest is presented, before 
 or during a race, and the parties refuse to make the prescribed 
 oath, if the Judges believe the refusal is designed to favor a 
 fraud, they may require the horse, under protest, to start or 
 continue in the race. 
 
 Any person found guilty of protesting a horse falsely and 
 without cause, or merely with intent to embarrass a race, 
 shall be punished by a fine not exceeding $ 100, or by sus- 
 pension not to exceed one year, or by expulsion. 
 
 When a protest has been duly made, or any information 
 lodged with the Judges in support of such a protest, alleging 
 any improper entry or fraudulent act, such ns shall be punish- 
 able under these rules, the same shall not be withdrawn or 
 
138 THE HORSE OWNER'S 
 
 surrendered before the expiration of three weeks, except 
 upon the decision of tlie association or proprietor of the 
 course upon wliich such protests or information was pro- 
 duced ; and if any association or proprietor shall permit such 
 a withdrawal of protest or information with a corrupt mo- 
 tive to fivor any party who shall be affected by the same, the 
 association or proprietor fliilty of this impropriety, if con- 
 victed thereof by or before the Board of Appeals, shall be ex- 
 pelled from all connection with the National Association. 
 
 Association or proprietors shall be warranted in retaining 
 the premium of any horse in the manner herein mentioned, 
 if at any time before it is paid they shall receive information 
 in their judgment tending to show fraud. 
 
 The oath required in answer to protest, shall be in the fol- 
 lowing form, to wit. : 
 
 I, , of , in the county of , 
 
 State of , on oath depose and say, that I am the 
 
 of the called , the same entered 
 
 in a purse for horses that have never trotted better than 
 
 minutes and seconds, to be trotted this day on this 
 
 course, and the same that has been protested, and to which 
 protest this affidavit is in answer, hereby declare and affirm 
 that to the best of my knowledge and belief said beforemen- 
 tioned horse is eligible to start or compete in the race afore- 
 said, according to the rules of this course; and that I fully 
 believe all the provisions and conditions required in the 
 rules and regulations for the government of trials of speed 
 over this course were fully and honestly complied with in 
 making the entry aforesaid. 
 
 Given under my hand, at , this 
 
 day of , A.D. 187.. 
 
 Subscribed and sworn to before me, this, 
 day of A. D. 187... 
 
 Justice of the Peace. 
 [Note. — In the absence of a Justice of the Peace, if this 
 oath be administered by an officer of the Association, or one 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 139 
 
 of the Juiiges of the r.toe, it will be considered sufficient for 
 the purposes of the National Association.] 
 
 Rule 17. W/ie?i Horses Shall Not be Drawn. No person 
 shall draw his horse after said horse has appeared on the 
 track — saddled or harnessed — after having been summoned 
 to i)i'epare for the race, or during a race, except by permis- 
 sion of the Judges, under penalty of being expelled. 
 
 Rule 18. Power of Postponement. In case of unfavorable 
 weather, or other unavoidable causes, each association or 
 proprietor shall have poAver to postpone to a future time all 
 parses or sweepstakes, or any race to which they have con- 
 tributed money, upon giving notice thereof. 
 
 Rule 19. No Trotting after Bark. No heat shall be trot- 
 ted when it is so dark tliat the horses cannot be plainly seen 
 by the Judges from the stand, but all such races shall be con- 
 tinued by the Judges to the next ftiir day, omitting Sunday, 
 at such hour as they shall designate. 
 
 In all matches and stakes, the above rule shall govern, un- 
 less otherwise especially agreed between the parties and the 
 association or proprietors. 
 
 Rule 20. Weights and Weighing. Every horse starting 
 for purse, sweepstakes, or match, in any trotting or pacing 
 race, shall carry, if to wagon or sulky, 150 lbs., exclusive of 
 harness ; and if under the saddle, 145 lbs., the saddle and 
 whip only to be weighed with the rider. 
 
 Riders and drivers shall weigh in the presence of one or 
 more of the Judges previous to starting for any race, and, 
 afier each heat, shall come to the starting stand and not dis- 
 mount or leave their vehicle without permission of the 
 Judges, and those who are deficient in bodily weight shall be 
 re-weighed after each heat. Any rider or driver not bringing 
 in his required weight shall be distanced,^unless such decis- 
 ion shall be deemed to favor a fraud. But a rider or driver 
 thrown or taken by force from his horse or vehicle, after 
 having passed the winning post, shall not be considered as 
 having dismounted without permission of the Judges ; and if 
 disabled may be carried to the Judges' stand to be weighed, 
 
140 THE HORSE OWXER's 
 
 and the Judges may take the circumstances into considera- 
 tion, and decide aceordingly. And the riders or driA^ers who 
 shall carry during the race, and bring home with them, the 
 weights which have been approved, or announced correct 
 and proper by the Judges, shall be subject to no penalty for 
 light weight in that heat, provided the Judges are satisfied 
 the mistake or ftiult was their own, and that there has been 
 no deception on the part of the rider or driver who shall be 
 deficient in weight; 'but all parties thereafter shall carry the 
 required weight. 
 
 Rule 21. Handicaps and Miscellaneous Weights. In match- 
 es or handicaps, where extra or lesser weights are to be car- 
 ried, the Judges shall carefully examine and ascertain before 
 starting, whether the riders, drivers or vehicles are of such 
 weights as have been agreed upon or required by the match 
 ovl handicap, and thereafter the riders and drivers shall be 
 subject to the same penalties and copditions as if they were 
 to carry the weights prescribed by the rules. 
 
 Rule 22. When Riders and Drivers are Overweight. If 
 the bodily weight of any rider or driver shall be found to ex- 
 ceed that which] is prescribed in the rules, or that which is 
 required by the conditions of the race, and the overweight 
 shall exceed twenty pounds, it shall be announced from the 
 stand ; and if not, the Judges shall have power, if, in their 
 belief, such extra weight was imposed on the horse for an 
 improper or fraudulent purpose, to substitute another rider 
 or driver of suitable weight; and if they believe the horse 
 has been prejudiced in the race by such overweight, he shall 
 not be allowed to start again or continue in the race ; and all 
 outside bets on such horse shall be declared off. [See, also, 
 Rule 28.] 
 
 A horse prevented by this rule from continuing in the 
 race, shall not be distanced, but ruled out. 
 
 Rule 23. Length of Whips. Riders and drivers will be 
 allowed whips not to exceed the following lengths : For sad- 
 dle horses, 2 ft. 10 in.; sulkies, 4 ft. 8 in.; wagons, 5 ft. 10 
 in. ; double teams, 8 ft. 6 in. ; tandem teams and four-in- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 141 
 
 hand, unlimited; snappers, not longer than three inches, 
 will be allowed, in addition to tlie foregoing measure- 
 ment. 
 
 Rule 24. Judges'' Stand. None but the Judges of the race 
 in progress, and their assistants, sliall be allowed in the Judg- 
 es stand during the pendency of a heat, except members of 
 the Board of Appeals. 
 
 Rule 25. Selection of Judges. [See, also, Art. 13 of By- 
 LaAYS.] In every exhibition or race, over any course repre- 
 sented in said National Association, each course for itself, 
 through the 'proprietor or association controlling the same, 
 shall choose or authorize the selection of three (3) compe- 
 tent Judges, for the day or race, w^ho shall understand the 
 rules of said National Association, and shall rigidly enforce 
 the same; and all their decisions shall be subject to and in 
 conformity with said rules. Any person having any interest 
 in, or any bet dependent upon the result of a race, or having 
 any interest in either of the horses engaged therein, shall 
 thereby be disqualified and restricted from acting as a Judge 
 in that race. And if any person who is thus disqualified 
 shall intentionally and deceptively violate this restriction, 
 he shall, upon conviction thereof by or before the Board of 
 Appeals, be adjudged guilty of a dishonorable act, for which 
 he shall be expelled from every course represented in said 
 National Association. 
 
 Rule 26. Aiitho7'Uy of Judges. The Judges of the day or 
 race shall have authority, while presiding, to appoint dis- 
 tance and patrol Judges and Timers, to inflict fines and pen- 
 alties, as prescribed by these rules; to determine all ques- 
 tions of fact in any way relating to the race over which they 
 preside ; to decide respecting any matters of difference be- 
 tween parties to a race, or any contingent matter which shall 
 arise, such as are not specifically provided for in these rules; 
 but all their decisions shall be in strict conformity with these 
 rules, or with the principles thereof. 
 
 They shall have entire control over the horses about to 
 start, and the riders or drivers and assistants of the horses. 
 
142 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 and authority to punish b}' a fine not exceeding $100, or by 
 suspension or expulsion, any such person who shall refuse to 
 obey their orders. 
 
 Rule 27. Distance and Patrol Judges. In all races of 
 heats there shall be a distance Judge appointed by the Judges 
 of the race, or by those in authority, who shall remain in the 
 distance stand during the heats, and immediately after each 
 heat shall repair to the Judges' stand, and report to the 
 Judges the horse or horses that are distanced, and any act of 
 foul or improper conduct, if any has occurred under his ob- 
 servation. 
 
 Patrol Judges may be similarly appointed, and it shall be 
 their duty to repair in like manner to the Judges' stand, and 
 report any act of foul or improper conduct, if any has oc- 
 curred under their observation. 
 
 Rule 28. Powers and Duties of Judges, The Judges shall 
 be in the stand fifteen minutes before the time for starting 
 the race ; they shall weigh the riders or drivers, and deter- 
 mine the positions of the horses, and informi each rider or 
 driver of his place before starting; they may require the 
 riders and drivers to be properly dressed; they shall be pre- 
 pared to take the time of each heat in the race, and they may 
 appoint some suitable person or persons to assist them in 
 that respect ; and the time so taken shall be recorded and 
 announced in conformity with these rules. [See, also, Rules 
 30 and 40, and Art. 13 of By-Laws.] The Judges shall ring 
 the bell, or give other notice ten minutes previous to tho 
 time announced for the race to come off, which shall be- 
 notice to all parties to prepare for the race at the appointed 
 time, when al] the horses mnst appear at the stand, ready for 
 the race; and any rider or driver failing to obey this sum- 
 mons, may be punished by a fine not exceeding $ 100, or liis 
 horse may be ruled out by the Judges and considered drawn ; 
 [but in all stakes and matches a failure to appear promptly 
 at the appointed time, shall render the delinquent party lia- 
 ble to forfeit.] 
 
 The rssult of a heat slmll not bo announced until the 
 Judges are satisfied as to the weights of the riders or drivers, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 143 
 
 .and sufficient time has elapsed to receive the reports of the 
 distance and patrol Judges. The Judges shall not notice nor 
 consider complaints of foul from any person or persons, ex- 
 cept the distance and patrol Judges appointed by themselves 
 or by those in authority, and from owners, riders or drivers 
 in the race. 
 
 If the Judges believe that a horse is being or has been 
 •' pulled," or has been ridden or driven in other respects im- 
 properly, with a design to prevent his winning a heat which 
 he was evidently able to win, and that such act was done, 
 on the part of the rider or driver, for the purpose of perpe- 
 trating or aiding a fraud, they may declare that heat void, 
 and they shall have power to substitute a competent and re- 
 liable driver or rider for the remainder of the race; and if • 
 the result of the succeeding heat or heats shall conlirm their 
 belief, the rider or driver so removed shall be punished by 
 suspension or expulsion. And, at the close of the race, if 
 they are warranted, under the foregoing circumstances, in 
 deciding that such fraudulent conduct has changed the result 
 of the race to the prejudice of innocent parties, they shall 
 declare all outside bets " off," ; and if the owner or person or 
 persons controlling the offending horse shall be a party or 
 parties to such fraud, he or they shall be punished by expul- 
 sion. [See, also, Rules 22 and 48.] 
 
 Rule 29. Starting and Keeping Positions. No rider or 
 driver shall cause unnecessary delay after the horses are 
 called up, either by neglecting to prepare for the race in 
 time, or by failing to come for the w^ord, or otherwise ; and 
 in scoring, if the word is not given, all the horses in the race 
 shall immediately turn, at the tap of the bell or other' signal 
 given, and jog back for a fresh start. 
 
 When the Judges are prevented from giving a fair start 
 by a horse or horses persistently scoring ahead of others, or 
 being refractory, or from any other fault of either horse, 
 rider or driver, they may, after a reasonable time, give the 
 word without reference to the position of the faulty horse or 
 party, or they may give the faulty ones any position they 
 think proper to facilitate the start. 
 
144 THE HORSE OWXER's 
 
 If these requirements are not complied with on the part 
 of any rider or driver, the Jutlges may not only start the 
 race, or give the Avord without regard to the absence or po- 
 sition of the offending party or parties, but the offender may 
 be punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension 
 not to exceed one year. 
 
 In all cases the word shall be given from the Judges' 
 stand, and in no instance shall a standing start be given. 
 
 When, through aiiy foalt of either horse, rider or driver, 
 the Judges are prevented from giving a fair and prompt 
 start, they shall warn the faulty party of the penalties to 
 which they are subject, and if such warning is not heeded, 
 they sliall rigidly enforce said penalties. 
 
 The horse winning a heat shall take the pole (or inside 
 position) the succeeding heat, and all others shall take their 
 positions in the order in wiiich they came home in the last 
 heat. AYhen two or more horses shall make a dead heat, 
 the horses shall start for the' succeeding heat in the same, 
 positions they occupied at the finish of the dead heat. In 
 coming out on the home stretch, the foremost horse or 
 horses shall keep the positions first selected, or be liable to 
 be distanced ; and the hindmost horse or horses, when there 
 is sufficient room to pass on the inside or anywhere on the 
 home stretch, without interfering with others, shall be al- 
 lowed to do so, and any party interfering to prevent him or 
 them shall be distanced. If a horse, in attempting to pass 
 another on the home stretch, should at any time cross or 
 swerve, so as to impede the progress of a horse behind him, 
 he shall not be entitled to win that heat. 
 
 Although a leading horse is entitled to any part of the 
 track, except after selecting his position on the home 
 stretch, he shall not change from the right to the left, or 
 from the inner to the outer side of the track during any 
 part of the race, when another horse is so near him that, 
 in altering his position, he compels the horse behind him to 
 shorten his stride, or causes the rider or driver of such other 
 horse to pull him out of liis stride; neither shall any horse, 
 rid^r or driver, cross, jostle, or strike ano ther horse, rider 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 145 
 
 or driver, nor swerve or do any other thing that impedes the 
 progress of another horse ; nor shall any horse, in passing 
 a leading horse, take the track of the other horse so soon 
 after getting the lead as to cause the horse passed to shorten 
 his stride. 
 
 In any heat, wlierein there shall be a violation of any of 
 these restrictions, the offending horse shall not be entitled 
 to win the heat, and he shall be placed behind all other 
 liorses in that heat. And if the impropriety was intentional 
 on the part of the rider or driver, the offending horse may 
 be distanced, and the rider or driver shall be suspended or 
 expelled. [See, also. Rule 48.] 
 
 Rule 30. Horses Breakiiig. When any horse or horses 
 break from their gait in trotting or pacing, their riders or 
 drivers shall at once pull them to the gait in which they 
 were to go the race, and any party refusing or failing to 
 comply with this requirement, if he come out ahead, shall 
 lose the heat, and the next best horse shall win the heat, and 
 whether the breaking horse come out ahead or not, all other 
 horses shall be placed ahead of him in that heat, and the 
 Judges shall have discretionary power to distance the offend- 
 ing horse or horses, and tlie rider or driver may be punished 
 by a fine not to exceed •'$100, or by suspension not exceeding 
 one year. Sh(Viild the rider or driver comply with this re- 
 quirement, and the horse should gain by a break, twice the 
 distance so gained shall be taken from him at the coming 
 out; but this provision must not be so construed as to 
 shield any trotting or pacing horse from punishment for run- 
 ning. In case of any such horse repeatedly breaking, or 
 running or pacing while another horse is trotting, or so con- 
 tinuing in a run or pace, as to violate the first requirement 
 in this rule, the Judges shall punish the horse so breaking, 
 running or pacing, by placing him last in the heat, or by 
 distancing him. A hiU-se breaking at or near the score shall 
 be subject to the same penalty as if he broke on any other 
 part of the track. 
 
 Rule 31. Relative to Heats and Horses Eligible to Start. 
 
146 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 In heats, one, two, three or four miles, a horse not winning 
 one heat in three, shall not start for a fourth, unless such 
 horse shall have made a dead heat. In heats best three in 
 five, a horse not winning a heat in five shall not start for a 
 sixth, unless said horse shall have made a dead heat. But 
 where ten or more horses start in a race, every horse not 
 distanced shall have the right to compete until the race is 
 completed ; subject, however, to all other penalties in these 
 rules. 
 
 Rule 32. Dead Heats. A dead heat shall be counted in 
 the race, and shall be considered a heat which is won by the 
 horses making it, but undecided between them, and it shall 
 be considered a heat that is lost by all the other horses con- 
 tending therein; and the time made in a dead heat shall 
 constitute a record for each horse making such dead heat; 
 and only those horses shall start for the next heat that would 
 have been entitled had the heat been won by either horse 
 making the dead heat. A horse prevented from starting by 
 this rule shall not be distanced, but ruled out. 
 
 Rule 33. Time Between Heats. The time between heats 
 shall be twenty minutes for mile heats; and for mile heats, 
 best 3 in 5, twenty- five minutes; and for two mile heats, 
 thirty minutes; for three mile heats, thirty-five minutes; 
 and should there be a race of four mile heats, the time shall 
 be forty minutes. 
 
 After the first heat the horses shall be called five minutes 
 prior to the time of starting. 
 
 Rule 34. Time Allofned in Case of Accidents. In case of 
 accidents, ten minutes shall be allowed, but the Judges may 
 allow more time when deemed necessary and proper. 
 
 Rule 35. Fra.uduJent Collision and Break Down. In case 
 of collision and breakdown, the part}^ causing the same, 
 whether wilfully or otherwise, shall be distanced; and if the 
 Judges find it was occasioned designedly, and to aid fraud, 
 the driver in fault shall be forthwith suspended or expelled, 
 and his horse shall be distanced ; but if necessary to defeat 
 fraud, the Judges may direct the offending horse to start 
 again. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 147 
 
 No horse but tlie offondino: one shall be distanced in sneh 
 a Iieat, except for foul driviiiir. The Jndi^es in a eonclndini^ 
 heat, finding that a collision involved a fraudulent object, 
 may declare that heat void. [See, also, Rule 48.] 
 
 Rule 36. rUt:iny ilorscs. A horse must win a majority 
 of the heals which are required by the conditions of the race 
 to be entitled to the purse or stakes, unless such horse shall 
 have distanced all competitors in one heat: but whenever a 
 horse shall have distanced all competitors in one heat, the 
 race is concluded, and the winner shall receive the entire 
 purse and stakes. 
 
 WIkmi more than one horse remains in the race, entitled to 
 be placed at the finish of the last heat, the second best horse 
 shall receive the secontl premium, if there be any; and if 
 tliere be any third or fourth premium, &c., for which no horse 
 has won and maintained a specific place, the same shall go 
 to the winner. 
 
 The foregoing provisions shall always apply, in such cases, 
 unless otherwise stated in the published conditions of the race. 
 
 In deciding the rank of horses other than the winner, as to 
 second, third and fourth places, &c., to be assigned among 
 such as remain in the race, entitled to be placed at the con- 
 clusion of the last heat thereof, the several positions which 
 have been assigned to each horse so contending shall be 
 considered as to every heat in the race — that is, horses hav- 
 ing won two heats better than those winning one; a horse 
 that has won a heat better than a horse only making a dead 
 heat; a horse winning one or two heats and making a dead 
 heat better than one winning an equal number of heats, but 
 not makins: a dead heat; a horse winning a heat or making 
 a dead heat, and not distanced in the race, better than a 
 horse that has not won a heat or made a dead heat; a horse 
 that has bi^en placed " second" twice, better than a horse 
 that has been placed " second" only once, etc. 
 
 When two or more horses shall be equal in the race at the 
 commencement of a final heat thereof, they shall rank as to 
 each other as they are placed in the decision of such final 
 heat. 
 
148 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 In case these provisions shall not give a specific decision 
 as to second and third money, etc., the Judges of the race 
 are to make the awards according to their best judgment, 
 but in conformity with the principles of this rule. 
 
 Rule 37. Distances. In races of mile heats 80 j^ards 
 shall be a distance. In races of two mile heats 150 yards 
 shall be a distance. In races of three mile heats 2:20 yards 
 shall be a distance. In races of mile lieats best 3 in 5, 100 
 yards sliall be a distance. But if any Association or Propri- 
 etor shall choose, they can provide, in heats of not over one 
 mile, wherein eight or more horses contend, to increase^ the 
 distance one half, in which case such change shall be stated 
 in the published conditions of the race, before entry. 
 
 All horses whose heads have not reached the distance 
 stand as soon as the leading horse arrives at the winning 
 post, shall be declared distanced, except in cases otherwise 
 provided for, or the punishment of the leading horse by set- 
 ting him back for running, when it shall be left to the dis- 
 cretion of the Judges. 
 
 A distanced horse is out of the race, and if in any heat one 
 horse shall distance all competitors, the race will then be 
 completed, and the winner shall be entitled to the entire 
 purse and stakes, unless otherwise stipuhited in the pub- 
 lished conditions of the'race. 
 
 Rule 38. Rank heticeen Distanced IIo)\ses. Horses dis_ 
 tiinced in the first heat of a race shall be equal ; but horses 
 that are distanced in any subsequent heat shall rank as to 
 each other in the order of the positions to which they were 
 entitled at the start of the heat in which they are dis- 
 tanced. 
 
 Rule 39. Time and its JRecord. In every public race the 
 time of each heat shall be accurately taken and placed in the 
 recod •j'^and, upon the decision of each heat, the time thereof 
 shall be publicly announced by the Judges, except as provid- 
 ed in these rules concerning those heats which are "taken 
 away from leading horses. " 
 
 It shall be the duty of the Judges of the race to take the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 149 
 
 time as aforesaid, or to appoint some suitable person or per- 
 sons to assist them in that respect; and no nnoffieial timing 
 shall be recognized or admitted to the record. [See, also, 
 Rule 40.] 
 
 Rule 40. Two Leading Horses to be Separately Timed. 
 The two leading horses shall be separately timed, and if the 
 heat is aAvarded to either, his time only shall be announced 
 and be a record. In case of a dead heat, the time shall con- 
 stitute a record for the horses making the dead heat; and if 
 for any other cause the heat is not awarded to either of the 
 leading horses, it shall be awarded to the next best horse, 
 and no time shall be given out by the Judges or recorded 
 against either horse ; and the Judges may waive the appli- 
 cation of the rule in regard to distance in that heat, except 
 for foul riding or driving. 
 
 Rule 41. Fraudulent Suppression of Time. In any pub- 
 lic race, if there shall be any intentional suppression or mis- 
 representation in either the record or the announcement of 
 the time of any heat in the race, procured through any col- 
 lusive arrangement between the Judges or Timers and the 
 owner or the winning horse or his driver or other author- 
 ized agent, it shall be fraudulent. And any horse winning 
 a heat or making a dead heat wherein there was such a 
 fraudulent suppression of time, together with the parties im- 
 plicated in the fraud, shall be expelled. 
 
 Rule 42. A Public Race. Any contest for purse, pre- 
 mium, stake or wager, on any course and in the presence of 
 a Judge or Judges, shall constitute a public race. 
 
 Rule 43. Wlien Time Becomes a Bar. Time made in 
 single or double harness at fairs and on any track, whether 
 short or not, shall constitute a bar; but time made under the 
 saddle shall not be a bar in harness or wagon races. 
 
 Rule 44. Time of " Trotting Horse with a Running Mate,'''' 
 no Bar. A race wherein a trotting horse goes with a 
 running mate, shall not create a record for time as a trotting 
 perform mce. 
 
 Rule 45. Complai?its by Riders or Drivers, All com- 
 
150 
 
 plaints by ridors or drivers, of any foul riding or driving, or 
 other misconduct, must be made at the termination of the 
 heat, and before the rider or driver dismounts or leaves his 
 vehicle by permission of the Judges.. 
 
 Rule 46. Decorum, If any owner, trainer, rider, driver, 
 or attendant of a horse, or any other person, use improper 
 language to the officers of the course, or the Judges in a race, 
 or be guilty of any improper conduct, the person or persons 
 so otfending shall be p.unished by a line not exceeding $ 100, 
 or by suspension or expulsion. [See, also. Rule 48.] 
 
 Rule 47, Loud Shouting. Any rider or driver guilty of 
 loud shouting, or of making otlier unnecessary noise, or of 
 making improper use of the whip, during the pendency of a 
 heat, shall be punished by a tine not to exceed 8 25, or by 
 suspension during the meeting. 
 
 Rule 48. Fouls. If any act or thing shall be done by any 
 owner, rider or driver, or their iiorse or horses, during any 
 race, or in connection therewith, which these rules define or 
 warrant the Judges in deciding to bs foul ; and if no special 
 provision is made in these rules to meet the case, the Judges 
 shall have power to panisli the offender by fine not to exceed 
 $ 100, or by suspension or expulsion. And in any case of foul 
 riding or driving, they shall distance the offending horse, un- 
 less they believe such a decision will favor a fr;iud. The 
 term " foul " shall be construed to apply to riding or driving 
 contrary to rule, or to any act of a fraudulent nature, and to 
 any unprincipled conduct, such as tends to debase the char- 
 acter of the trotting turf in the estimation of the public. — 
 (See, also. Rules 23, 29. 35, 46 and 47.] 
 
 Rule 49. Fines. All persons who shall have been fined 
 under these rules, unless they pay the fines imposed, in full, 
 on the day of assessment, shall be suspended until they are 
 so paid or deposited with the Treasurer of said National As- 
 sociation. 
 
 All fines which shall be baid to the association or proprie- 
 tor, on whose grounds they were imposed, shall by them be 
 paid to the Treasurer of the Xiitional Association upon de- 
 mand. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 151 
 
 Rule 50. No Compromise of Penalties. In no case sliall 
 there be any eomi)roniise in the manner of punishnKnit 
 where the rules expn^ss or provide what the penalty sliall 
 be, but the same shall be strictly enforced. 
 
 Rule 51. Suspensions and Expulsions. Whenever the 
 words suspended or suspension occur in these rules, if ap- 
 plied to a horse, they shall be construed to mean a disquali- 
 fication during the time of suspension, to enter or compete 
 in any race to be performed on the course of the association 
 or proprietor; and if applied to a person, they shall be con- 
 strued to mean a conditional withholding of all right or priv- 
 ilege to make an entry, or to ride, drive, train or assist on 
 the course and grounds of the association or proprietor. If 
 no limit is fixed in an order of suspenion, and none is pre- 
 scribed in the rule applicable to the case, the punishment 
 shall be considered as limited to the season in which the 
 order was issued. 
 
 Wherever the words expelhid or expulsion occur in these 
 rules, they shall be construed to mean unconditional expul- 
 sion and disqualification from any participation in the priv- 
 ileges and uses of the course iind grounds of the association 
 or proprietor. And no penalty, of expulsion shall be re- 
 moved or modified, except by the order or upon the approval 
 of the Board of Appeals. 
 
 Wlienever the penalty of suspension or expulsion has been 
 imposed on any horse or person on the grounds of any asso- 
 ciation or proprietor holding membership in said National 
 Association, written or printed notice thereof shall imme- 
 diately be forwarded to the Secretary of said National Asso- 
 ciation, stating the oftence and th(^ character of punishment, 
 who shall at once transmit the information to each associ- 
 ated course or member; and thereupon the offender thus 
 punished shall sufi'cu' the same penalty and disqualification 
 with each association and proprietor holding membership in 
 said National .\ssociation. 
 
 Rule 52. Right of Appeal. Any person who lias been 
 subjected to either of the penalties of suspension, expulsion, 
 or a fine, by the decision of the Judges of a race, can appeal 
 
152 THE HORSE OWXER's 
 
 from such decision to the association or proprietor, upon 
 whose grounds the penalty was imposed, and from their de- 
 cision can appeal to the Board of Appeals; provided, th'a.t 
 where the penalty was a fine, it shall have been previously 
 paid. And all decisions and rulings of the Judges of any race, 
 and of the several associations and proprietors belonging to 
 said National Association, may be appealed to the Board of 
 Appeals, and shall be subject to review by said board, upon 
 facts and questions involving the proper interpretation and 
 application of these rules, and their decisions shall be final; 
 provided that parties to be affected thereby, shall be notified 
 as the board shall direct, of a time and a place when such 
 appeal will be acted on by the Board. 
 
 Provided further, if the appeal relate to the decision of a 
 race, immediate notice shall have been given to the Judges 
 of the race of the intention so to appeal. All other appeals 
 mast be taken within one week from the announcement of 
 the decisions appealed. Any person who shall appeal from 
 any order suspending him or his horse for non-payment of 
 entrance money or a fine, may deposit the amount claimed 
 with the Treasurer of said National Association, who may 
 thereupon issue a certificate or notice, temporarily re-instat- 
 ing or relieving the- party and his horse from such penalty ; 
 subject to the final action of the Board of Appeals. 
 
 Rule 53. Ar/e of a horse— Jiow reckoned. The age of a 
 horse shall be reckoned from the first day of January pre- 
 ceding the period of foaling. 
 
 Rule 54. CoH^ and Fillies equally Eligible to Erder. All 
 colts and fillies shall be eligible alike to all premiums and 
 stakes for animals of their age, unless specially excluded 
 by the conditions imposed. 
 
 Rule 55. A Green Horse. A green horse is one that has 
 never trotted O' paced for premiums or money, either double 
 or single. 
 
 Rule 56. Races made a?id '• JSFo Hoiir Named.'''' All races 
 shall be started at 3 o'clock, p. m., from the 1st day of April 
 to the 15th day of September, and after that date at 2 o'clock, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 153 
 
 P. M. until the season closes, unless otherwise provided. 
 
 Rule 57. Eacc made and no Distance Specified. When a 
 race is made and no distance specified, it shall be restricted 
 to the following distances, viz.: one mile and repeat; mile 
 heats, best 3 in 5; 2 miles and repeat, or 3 miles and repeat, 
 and may be performed in harness, to wagon, or under the 
 saddle. 
 
 Rule 58. Race made to ''go as they please.'''' When a race 
 is made to go as they please, it shall be construed that the 
 performance shall be in harness, to wagon, or under the 
 saddle; but after the race is commenced no change shall be 
 made in the mode of going. 
 
 Rule 59. JRace ■made''to ''go in^Earness.'''' When a race is 
 made to go in harness it shall be construedjto mean that the 
 performance shall be to a sulky. 
 
 Rule 60. Matches 7nade against Time. When a horse is 
 matched against time it shall be proper to allow any other 
 horse to accompany him in the performance, but not to be 
 harnessed with or in any way attached to him. 
 
 In matches made against time, the parties making the 
 match shall be entitled to three trials, unless expressly stip- 
 ulated to the contrary, which trials shall be had on the same 
 day — the time between trials to be the same as the time be- 
 tween heats in similar distances. 
 
 Rule 61. Horses sold with Engagements. The seller of a 
 horse sold with his engagements has not the power of strik- 
 ing him out. In case of private sale, the written acknowl- 
 edgment of the parties that the horse was sold with engage- 
 ments is necessary to entitle the buyer to the benefit of 
 this. 
 
 A true copy from the record, 
 At^.est — 
 
 George Smith, 
 
 Secretary. 
 
154 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 BETTING RULES 
 
 By vote of the National Association, at the Annual Meeting 
 held at Buffalo, New York, on the first Wednesday of Feb- 
 ruary, 1871, a special committee was appointed to revise 
 the Bp:tting Rules, and said committee having reported 
 the following rules, they are accordingly adopted to control 
 all pools and bets laid upon any trotting or pacing event 
 which shall be subject to the government of the rules of 
 said National Association. 
 
 No. 1. All pools and bets must follow the main stakes, 
 purse or other prize, as awarded by the decision of the Judg- 
 es, except in cn.ses where the horse that comes in first is found 
 to be disqualified, or the bets are declared off for fraud or 
 collusion. 
 
 No. 2. If a race is postponed, it shall not affect the pools 
 or bets that may have been made on it. They shall stand un- 
 til the race comes off, unless the contrary shall be agreed on 
 between the parties betting ; provided the race taices place 
 within five days of the time first named ; after which time all 
 bets and pools are drawn, unless made play or pay. 
 
 No. 3. When any change is made in the conditions of a 
 race, all pools and bets made previous to the announcement 
 of the change shall be null and void. 
 
 No. 4. When a bet is made on one horse against the field, 
 he must start or the bet is off, and the field is what starts 
 against him ; but there is no field, unless one start against 
 him. 
 
 No. 5. In pools and betting, the pool stands good for all 
 the horses that start in the race ; but for those horses that do 
 not start, the money must be returned to the purchaser. 
 
 No. 6. In races made })lay or pay, outside bets are not 
 play or pay unless so made by the parties. 
 
 No. 7. All bets are void on tlie decease of either party, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 155 
 
 but in case n horse should die, play or pay bets made on him 
 stand. 
 
 No. 8, If a bet is made on any number of straight heats, 
 and there is a dead heat made, the heats are not straight, and 
 the party betting on straight heats loses. 
 
 No. 9. If in any case the Judges declare a heat null and 
 void, it does not aftect the bets as in case of a dead heat as to 
 winning in straight lieats. 
 
 No. 10, When a race is coming off, and a party bets that 
 a heat will be made in two minutes and thirty seconds, (2,30), 
 and they make two thirty (2,30), or less, he would win. If 
 he bets they will beat two minutes and thirty seconds, (2,30), 
 and they make exactly two thirty, (2,30), he loses; but if ho 
 takes two minutes and thirty seconds (2,30) against the field? 
 and tliey make exactly two thirty (2,30), it is a tie, or drawn 
 bet. All time-bets to be decided accordingly. 
 
 No. 11. In a double event — where there is no action on 
 the first race in order, in consequence of forfeit or other 
 cause, the bet is off; but where there is an action on the bet, 
 and the party betting on the double event sliall have won the 
 first, the bet shall then stand as a play or pay bet for the 
 second event. 
 
 No. 12. If a bet should be made during the contest of a 
 heat, that a named horse will win that heat, and he makes a 
 dead heat, the bet is drawn: but if after the horses have 
 passed the score, the party bets that a certain named horse 
 has won the heat, and the Judges declare it a dead heat, the 
 backer of the named horse loses. 
 
 No. 13. In races between two or more horses, of a single 
 dash at any distance, whieii result is a dead heat, it is a draw 
 between the horses making tiie dead heat, and bets between 
 them are off; and if it is a sweepstakes, the money of the 
 beaten horse is to be divided between the horses making the 
 dead heat. 
 
 No. 14. When a better undertakes to place the horses in 
 a race, he mast giv^e a specifiinl place, as first, second, third, 
 and so on. The word " laif' ahall not be construed to mean 
 
156 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 "fourth and distanced,'" if four start, but "fourth" only and so 
 on. A distanced horse must be placed " distanced." 
 
 N"o. 15. Horses shall be placed in a race, and bets decided 
 as they are placed in the official record of the day ; provided 
 that Avhere a horse comes in tirst, and it is afterwards found 
 that he was disqualified for fraud, the bets on him shall be 
 null and void, but pool sellers and stake holders shall not be 
 responsible for moneys paid by them under the decision of 
 the judges of the race. [See article 13 of By-Laws.] 
 
 No. 16. Bets made during a heat are not determined until 
 the conclusion of the race, if the heat is not mentioned at 
 the time. 
 
 No. 17. Either of the bettors may demand stakes to be 
 made, and on refusal, declare the bet to be void. 
 
 No. 18. Outside bets cannot be declared off on the course 
 unless that place was named for staking the money, and then 
 it must be done by filing such declaration in Avriting with 
 the Judges, who shall read it from the stand before the race 
 commences. 
 
 No. 19. Bets agreed to be paid or received, or bets agreed 
 to be made or put up elsewhere than at the place of the race, 
 or any other specified place, cannot be declared off on the 
 Course. 
 
 No. 20. Bets on horses disqualified and not allowed to 
 start are void, unless the bets are play or pay. 
 
 No. 21. A bet cannot be transferred without the consent of 
 parties to it,^cept in pools. 
 
 No. 22. When a bet is made on a horse's time, it shall be 
 decided by the time made in a public race ; he going single 
 and carrying his proper weight. 
 
 No. 23. When a horse makes time on a short track, it shall 
 not constitute a record for the decision of bets. 
 
 No. 24. Horses that are distanced or drawn at the conclu- 
 sion of a heat are beaten in the race by those that start after- 
 ward. A horse that is distanced in a heat is beaten by one 
 drawn at the termination of the same heat. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 157 
 
 No. 25. When a man laj's odds, and intends to take the 
 field against a single horse, he must say so, and the other par- 
 ty will choose his horse. When a man undertakes to name 
 the Avinner, whether he bets odds or taks odds, he must name 
 some one horse. 
 
 No. 26. All bets relate to the purse, stake or match, if 
 nothing to the contrary is specified at the time of making the 
 bet. 
 
 No. 27. Parties wishing all the horses to start for a bet, 
 must so name it at the time the bet is made. 
 
 No. 28. When the judges declare a heat null and void, all 
 bets on that heat shall stand for decision on the next heat. 
 
 No. 29. All pools and bets shall be governed and decided 
 by these rules, unless a stipulation to the contrary shall be 
 agreed upon by the parties betting. 
 
 No. 30. Should any contingencies occur not provided for 
 by these rules, the Judges of the day shall decide them. 
 
 No. 31. When a horse which has not been sold in the pools 
 wins the race, the best horse sold in the pools wins the 
 money. 
 
 A true copy from the record. ' 
 Attest — 
 
 George Smith, 
 
 Secretary. 
 
168 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 GENERAL HINTS. 
 
 Match horses with reference to size and motion partic- 
 ularly ; to color if you can, and have other requisites. 
 
 Always have inside lines on double teams quite long, 
 and back-strap short. 
 
 Never check a horse if you wish to have him last long, 
 except while training. 
 
 Feed in low mangers; ivater and oats to be given ^rs^ ; 
 hay afterward. 
 
 If worked, very little water to be given in the night. 
 
 Stop at the top of a hill and let your horse get breath. 
 
 The shoe should fit the foot, not the foot the shoe. 
 Never cut the bars or frogs. 
 
 Wet the hay^ and not the oats for a coughing horse. 
 
 Never let a horse stand long facing a cold wind. 
 
 Feed lightly when changing feed. 
 
 When training in a building, have carriages, etc., re- 
 moved. 
 
 Always approach a strange horse near the shoulder. 
 
 Use but a few words with a horse, but have them un- 
 derstood. 
 
 Be earnest and prompt, but not harsh. 
 
 Teach before whipping, and when whipping, do it to 
 frighten, not to enrage. 
 
 Never jump from a wagon when your horse is running 
 away. More lives and limbs are lost in that way than by 
 remaining in the wagon. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 159 
 
 Exercise sound judgment by purchasing a horse suited 
 to the business required of him. Some horses are good 
 saddle-horses, but miofht not make ixood cart-horses. 
 
 If a horse cribs, drive a few three-ounce tacks through 
 the throat-latch of the halter, so that the points are in- 
 ward toward the neck, when the throat-latch is buckled 
 moderately tight. As he attempts to crib, the swell of 
 the neck causes him to be pricked, which admonishes him 
 to quit. 
 
 Trotters go in all forms as well as runners. 
 
 Have your harness fit your horse. The greatest care 
 should be observed that every strap should be in the right 
 place, and every billet buckled in the right hole. When 
 on, the whole suit to fit like a glove, without confining the 
 animal by pressure ; the bit drawn close in the angles of 
 the mouth ; the blinds to have the right set ; the breast- 
 collar to come above the point of the shoulder, without 
 encroaching on the wind-pipe ; the back pad where the 
 withers and swelling of the ribs make it sit easily ; the 
 breeching on a level with the stifle ; the martingal long. 
 
160 THE HOKSE OWNEE's 
 
 TURF CALENDAR. 
 
 Flora Temple, the fastest trotting horse in the world, 
 was sired by One- Eyed Hunter ; tlie pedigree of her dam 
 is not known. Flora is now twenty years old, (1865) ; is 
 owned by A. Welch, Esq., of Chesnut Hills, Philadelphia ; 
 her best time was made at Kalamazoo, October 15th, 1859, 
 a fnll mile in 2 min. 19| sec, which is the best time ever 
 made by a trotting horse. She beat George M. Patchen 
 on the Union Course in 2:21 ; she beat Ethan Allen and 
 mate in 2:201. 
 
 George M. Patchen trotted under the saddle, on Union 
 Course, Nov. 21, 1859, in 2:24. 
 
 Brown Dick beat Patchen in 2-25;^. 
 
 Ethan Allen's best time, single, was 2:25| ; trotted with 
 a running mate, Sept 5, 1861, on Fashion Course, in 2:19|, 
 
 The fastest time on record for a three years old, was 
 made by Cora, in 2:37|. 
 
 Gen. Butler's best time was 2:21. Dexter beat him 
 three straight heats, on the Fashion Course, Sept. 7, 1865 : 
 2:26^, 2:241, 2:22^ 
 
 Toronto Chief beat Vanderbilt on the Fashion Course, 
 Sept. 9, 1865, in 2:28, 2:27, 2:27|. Vanderbilt trotted one 
 heat in 2:27|. 
 
 The fastest running time on record, for a single mile, 
 was made at Cincinnati by Legal Tender in 1 min. 44 sec. 
 The best time ever made in England is 1:39, made by 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 161 
 
 Glidi'itor. It is said that Bay Middleton ran the same 
 mile in 1:30, but there is no record of such time. 
 
 Brown Dick made the best time for three mile heats, 
 in 5:28. 
 
 Pocahontas paced a full mile in 2:17^, which is the best 
 time on record. 
 
 The greatest performance in double harness, on record, 
 a 2:12 gait to road wagon. Lady Palmer and Flatbush 
 Mare, driven by their owner,' Mr. Bonner, taken out of 
 his stable untrained, to a road wagon, in public, May 10th, 
 1862, one mile in 2:26; May 13th, two miles in 5.01^ ; the 
 second quarter of the second mile in 33 seconds being a 
 2:12 gait to a road wagon. 
 
 Since the writing of this book, Flora Temple's time has 
 been beaten. Dexter in his great match against time on 
 the Fashion Course, Oct. 10, 1865, trotted a mile under 
 saddle in the unparalleled time of 2:18 1-5. 
 
 Twenty Miles Within the Hour — Trustee, Union 
 Course Oct. 20, 1848, in 59:351 Lady Fulton, Centre- 
 ville Course, July 12, 1855, 59-55. Captain Mc Gowan, 
 Riverside Course, Boston, Oct. 81, 1865, 58:25. Dexter 
 beat Flora Temple's best time in harness, July 80, 1867, 
 at Boston, in 2:19. Lady Suffolk's best time for one mile, 
 harness, 2:26. Laucet's best time saddle, 2:25^. 
 
 In order to form an idea of Dexter's superiority over 
 all other trotting horses, it is only necessary to state that 
 during Flora Temple's entire career on the turf, she trotted 
 only four or five heats in less than 2:22, while Dexter has 
 trotted in less than two years, twenty-seven heats in 2:22, 
 or quicker. The horse that has ranked next to Dexter 
 on the turf during the past two years is Lady Thorn, and 
 she has never made even one heat in 2:22, while Dexter 
 
162 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 has trotted as horsemen say, "away down" in 2:17^. 
 Dexter is fifteen hands, one inch high, and was nine years 
 old in the spring of 1867. 
 
 In color he has a rich glossy hrown, blazed-faced, with 
 four white feet, the white running well up the legs. His 
 head, though somewhat large, is clean and bony; lower 
 jaw well open at the base, leaving plenty of room for the 
 windpipe ; ears tapering and lively; eyes bright and 
 prominent; head well set on a rather light neck, which is 
 well fitted to fine sloping shoulders; withers high, with 
 great depth of brisket, and a good barrel ; back slightly 
 arched, with broad loin and hips and drooping rump; 
 uncommonly long from point of the hip to hock ; short 
 cannon bone ; mane and tail sufficiently full to develop his 
 Hambletonian origin. 
 
 Ethan Allen and '* running mate," in double harness, 
 on Fashion Course, Friday, June 21, 1867, beat Dexter in 
 harness in the unprecedented time of 2:15, 2:16, 2:19. 
 Dexter's time, as taken by excellent men, wasreported 2:17, 
 2:18, 2:21, but not reliable for bets. The fastest time on 
 record, for four years' old, was made by Bruno in 2:30. 
 
 Kentucky Prince trotted ten miles in 28:8^. 
 
 y' 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 163 
 
 STABLE MANAGEMENT. 
 
 This is a very important part of our subject, even as a it 
 regards the farmer, although there are comparatively few 
 glaring errors in the treatment of the agricultural horse; 
 but it comes more especially home to the gentleman, who 
 is too often, and too implicitly, under the guidance of an 
 idle, ignorant and designing groom. We will arange the 
 most important points of general management under the 
 following heads. 
 
 AIR. 
 
 The breathing of pure air is necessary to the existence 
 and health of man and beast. It is comparatively lately 
 that this has been admitted even in the management of our 
 best stables. They have been close, hot, and foul, instead 
 of airy, cool and wholesome. The stable should be as 
 large compared with the number of horses that it is des- 
 tined to contain, as circumstances will allow. A stable 
 for six horses should not be less than thirty feet in length, 
 and thirty feet wide. If there is no loft above, the inside 
 of the roof should always be plastered in order to prevent 
 direct currents of air and occasional droppings from broken 
 tiles. The heated and foul air should escape, and cool, 
 pure air be admitted, by elevation of the central tiles, 
 or by large tubes carried through the roof, with caps a 
 little above them, to prevent the beating in of the rain, 
 or by grating placed high up in the walls. These latter 
 apertures should be as far above the horses as they caa 
 
164 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 conveniently be placed, by wliicli means all injuvions 
 draughts will be prevented. If there is a loft above the 
 stable the ceiling should be plastered, in order to pre- 
 vent the foul air from penetrating to the hay above, and 
 injuring both its taste and its vvholesomeness ; and no open- 
 ing should be allowed above the manger through which 
 the hay may be thrown into them ; for they will permit 
 the foul air to ascend to the provender, and also in the 
 act of filling the mangers, and while the horse is eagerly 
 gazing upward for his food a grass seed may fall into the 
 eye and produce considerable inflammation. At other 
 times, when the careless groom has left open the trap -door, 
 a cold stream of air beats down on the head of the horse. 
 The stable with a loft over it should never be less than 
 twelve feet high, and proper ventilation should be secured, 
 either by tubes carried through the roof, or by gratings 
 close to the ceiHng. These gratings, or openings should 
 be enlarged or contracted by means of a covering or shut- 
 ting, 60 that spring, summer and autumn the stable may 
 possess nearly the same temperature with the open air, and 
 in winter a temperature of not more than ten degrees above 
 that of the external atmosphere. A hot stable has, in the 
 mind of the groom, been connected with a glossy coat. The 
 latter, it is thought, cannot be obtained without the for- 
 mer. To this we reply, that in winter a thin glossy coat is 
 not very desirable. Nature gives to every animal a warmer 
 clothing when the cold weather approaches. The horse, the 
 agricultural horse especially, acquires a thicker and length- 
 ened coat, in order to defend him from the surrounding 
 cold. ' Man puts on an additional aud a warmer covering, 
 and his comfort is increased and his health improved by 
 it. He who knows anything of the farmer's horse, or 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 165 
 
 cares about his enjoyment, will not object to a coat a 
 little longer, and a little roughened when the wintry wind 
 blows bleak. The coat, however, not to be so long as to be 
 unsightly, and warm clothing even in a cool stable, will 
 with plenty of honest grooming, keep the hair sufficiently 
 smooth and glossy to satisfy the most fastidious. 
 
 The over-heated air of a close stable saves much of this 
 grooming, and therefore the idle attendant unscrupu- 
 lously sacrifices the health and safety of the horse. When 
 we have presently to treat of the hair and skin of the 
 horse, this will be placed in a somewhat different point of 
 view. If the stable is close, the air will not only be hot, 
 but foul. The breathing of every animal contaminates ; 
 and when in, the course of the night, with every aperture 
 stopped, it passes again and again through the lungs, the 
 blood cannot undergo its proper and healthy change ; di- 
 gestion will not be so perfectly performed, and all the func- 
 tions of life are injured. Let the owner of a valuable 
 horse think of his passing twenty or twenty-two out of 
 twenty-four hours in this debilitating atmosphere. Na- 
 ture does wonders in enabling every animal to accommo- 
 date itself to the situation in which it is placed, and the 
 horse that lives in the stable, even suffers less from it than 
 would scarcely be conceived possible ; but he does not 
 and cannot possess the power and hardihood which he 
 would acquire under other circumstances. This air of 
 the improperly close and heated stable is still further con- 
 taminated by the urine and dung, which rapidly ferment 
 there, and give out stimulating and unwholesome vapors. 
 When a person first enters an ill-managed stable, and es- 
 pecially early in the morning, he is annoyed not only by 
 the heat of the confined air, but by a pungent smell, re- 
 
166 THE HORSE OWMEr's 
 
 sembling hartshorn : and can he be surprised at the in- 
 flammation of the eyes, and the chronic cough, and the 
 disease of the kings, by which the animal who has been 
 all night shut up in this wretched atmosphere, is often at- 
 tacked ; or if the. glanders and farcy should occasionally 
 break out in such stables ? It has been ascertained by 
 chemical experiment that the urine of the horse contains 
 in it an exceedingly" large quantity of hartshorn ; and not 
 only so, but that, influenced by the heat of a crowded sta- 
 ble, and possibly by other decompositions that are going 
 forward at the same time, this ammoniacal vapor begins 
 to be rapidly given out, almost immediately after the 
 urine is voided. When disease begins to appear among 
 the inhabitants of these ill-ventilated places, is it wonder- 
 ful that it should rapidly spread among them, and that 
 the plague-sj)ot should be, as it were, placed on the door 
 of such a stable ? When distemper appears in spring or 
 autumn, it is in very many cases to be traced to such a 
 pest-house. It is peculiarly fatal there. The horses be- 
 longing to a small establishment, rationally treated, have 
 it comparatively seldom, or have it lightly ; but among 
 the inmates of a crowded stable it is sure to display itself, 
 and there it is most fatal. The experience of every vet- 
 erinary surgeon, and of every large proprietor of horses, 
 will corroborate this statement. Every stable should 
 possess within itself a certain degree of ventilation. The 
 cost of this would be trifling, and its saving in the preser- 
 vation of valuable animals may be immense. The aper- 
 tures need not be large, and the whole may be so contrived 
 that no direct current of air ahall fall on the horse. A 
 gentleman's stable should never be without a thermome- 
 ter. The temperature should seldom exceed 70 degrees 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 167 
 
 in the summer, or sink below 40 or 50 degrees in the 
 winter. 
 
 LITTER. 
 
 Having spoken of the vapor of hartshorn, which is so 
 rapidly and so plentifully given out from the urine of the 
 horse in a heated stable, we next take into consideration 
 the subject of litter. The first caution is frequently to 
 remove it. The early extraction of gas shows the rapid 
 putrefaction of the U7-ine, the consequence of which 
 will be rapid putrefaction of the litter that has been mois- 
 tened by it. Everything hastening to decomposition 
 should be carefully removed where life and health are to 
 be preserved. The litter that has been much wetted or 
 at all softened by the urine, and is beginning to decay, 
 should be swept away every morning ; the greater part 
 of the remainder may then be piled under the manger, 
 a little being left to prevent the painful and injurious 
 pressure of the feet on the hard floor during the day. 
 The soiled and soaked portion of that which was left 
 should be removed at aight. In the better kind of sta- 
 bles, however, the stalls should be completely emptied 
 every morning. No heap of fermenting dung should be 
 suffered to remain during the day, in the corner, or- in 
 any part of the stable. With regard to this the direc- 
 tions of the master should be peremptory. The stable 
 should be so contrived that the urine shall quickly run 
 off and the offensive and injurious vapor from the decom- 
 posing fluid and the litter will thus be materially lessened ; 
 but if this is eff"ected by means of gutters and a descending 
 floor, the descent must be barely sufficient to cause the 
 fluid to escape; as, if the toes are kept higher than the 
 heels it will lead to lameness, and is also a frequent cause 
 
168 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 of contraction of the foot. Stalls of this kind certainly do 
 best for mares; but for horses we much prefer those with 
 a grating in the center, and a slight inclination of the 
 floor on every side, towards the middle, and a short 
 branch may communicate with a larger drain, by means 
 of which the urine may be carried off to a reservoir out- 
 side the stable. Traps are now contrived, and may be 
 procured at a little expense, by means of which neither 
 any offensive smell nor current of air can pass through 
 the grating. Humanity and interest, as well as the ap- 
 pearance of the stable, should induce the proprietor of 
 the horse to place a moderate quantity of litter under 
 him during the day. 
 
 LIGHT. 
 This neglected branch of stable management is of far 
 more consequence than is generally imagined ; and it is 
 particularly neglected by those for whom these treatises 
 are principally designed. The farmer's stable is frequent- 
 ly destitute of any glazed window, and has only a shutter, 
 which is raised in warm weather and closed when the weath- 
 er becomes cold. When the horse is in the stable on- 
 ly during a few hours in the day, this is not of so much 
 consequence, with regard to horses of slow work : but to 
 carriage horses and hackne3''s, so far at least, as the eyes 
 are concerned, a dark stable is little less injurious than a 
 foul and heated one. In order to illustrate this refer- 
 ence may be made to the unpleasant feeling, and the ut- 
 ter impossibility of seeing distinctly, when a man suddenly 
 emerges from a dark place into the full blaze of day. The 
 sensation of mingled pain and giddiness is not soon forgot- 
 ten ; and some minutes pass before the eye can accommo- 
 date itself to the increased light. If this were to happen 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 169 
 
 every day, or several times in the day, the sight would be 
 irreparably injured, or possibly blindness would ensue. 
 Can we wonder, then, that the horse, taken from a dark 
 stable into a olovv of light, feeling, probably, as we should 
 feel under similar circumstances, and unable for a consid- 
 erable time to see anything around him distinctly, should 
 become a starter, or that the frequently repeated violent 
 effect of sudden light should induce inflammation of the 
 eye so intense as to terminate in blindness? There is 
 indeed, no doubt that horses kept in dark stables are, 
 frequently notorious starters, and that abominable habit 
 has been traced to this cause. If plenty of light is admitted, 
 the walls of the stable, and especially that portion of them 
 which is before the horse's head, must not be of too tflarino* 
 a color. The color of the stable should depend on the 
 quantity of light. Where much can be admitted, the walls 
 should be of a gray hue ; when darkness would otherwise 
 prevail, frequent whitewashing may in some degree dissi- 
 pate the gloom. For another reason, it will be evident 
 that the stable should not possess too glaring a light ; it is 
 the resting place of the horse. The work of the farmer's 
 horse, indeed, is confined principally to the day. The hour 
 of exertion having passed, the animal returns to his stable 
 to feed, and to repose, and the latter is as necessary as the 
 former, in order to prepare him for renewed work. Some- 
 thing approaching to the dimness of twilight is requisite 
 to induce the animal to compose himself to sleep. This 
 half-light more particularly suits horses of heavy work. 
 In the quietness of a dimly lighted stable, they obtain 
 repose, and accumulate flesh and fat. 
 GKOOMING. 
 Of this, much need not be said to the agriculturist, 
 
170 THE HORSE OWXER's 
 
 since custom, and apparently without ill effect, has allot- 
 ted so little of the comb and brush to the farmer's horse. 
 The animal that is worked all day, and turned out at night, 
 requires little more to be done to him than to have the 
 dirt brushed off his limbs. Regular grooming, by render- 
 ing his skin more sensitive to the attraction of tempera- 
 ture, and the inclemency of the weather, would be preju- 
 dicial. The horse that is altogether turned out needs no 
 grooming. The dandruff, or scurf, which accumulates at 
 the roots of the hair, is a provision of nature to defend 
 him from the wind and cold. It is to the stabled horse, 
 highly fed and little or irregularly worked, that groom- 
 ing is of so much consequence. Good rubbing with the 
 brash and currycomb, opens the pores of the skin, circulates 
 the blood to the extremities of the body, produces free 
 and healthy perspiration and stands in the room of exer- 
 cise. No horse will carry a fine coat without either un- 
 natural heat or dressing. They both effect the same pur- 
 pose ; they both increase the insensible perspiration; but 
 the first does it at the expense of health and strength, 
 while the second, at the same time that it produces a glow 
 on the skin, and a determination of blood to it rouses all 
 the energies of the frame. It would be well for the pro- 
 prietor of the horse if he were to insist and see that his 
 orders are really obeyed, that the fine coat in which he 
 and his groom so much delight is produced by hand rub- 
 bing and not by a heated stable and thick clothing, and 
 most of all, not by stimulating or injurious spices. The 
 horse should be regularly dressed every day, in addition" 
 to the grooming that is necessary after work. 
 
 When the weather will permit the horse to be taken 
 out, he should never be groomed in the stable, unless he 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 171 
 
 is an animal of peculiar value, or placed for a time under 
 pecnliar circumstances. Without dwelling on the want 
 of cleanliness, when the scurf and dust which are brushed from 
 the horse, lodge in his man2:er, and mingle with his food, 
 experience teaches, that if the cold is not too great, the 
 animal is braced and invigorated to a degree that cannot 
 be attained in the stable by being dressed in the open 
 air. There is no necessity, however, for half the punish- 
 ment which many a groom inflicts upon the horse in the 
 act of dressing ; and particularly on one whose skin is thin 
 and sensitive. The curry-comb should at all times be 
 lightly applied. With many horses its use may be al- 
 most dispensed with; and even the brush need not be used 
 very hard, nor the points of the bristles so irregular, as 
 thev often are. A soft brush, with a little more weio;ht 
 of the hand, will be equally effectual, and a good deal 
 more pleasant to the horse. A hair cloth, while it will 
 seldom irritate and tease, will be almost sufficient 
 with horses that have a thin skin, and that have 
 not been neglected. After all, it is no slight task to dress 
 a horse as it ought to be done. It occupies no little time 
 and demands considerable patience, as well as dexterity. 
 It will be readily ascertained whether a horse has been 
 well dressed by rubbing him with one of the fingers. A 
 greasy stain will detect the idleness of the groom. Where, 
 however, the horse is changing his coat, both the curry- 
 comb and brush should be used as lightly as possible. 
 Whoever would be convinced of the benefit of friction to 
 the horse's skin and to the horse generally, needs only to 
 observe the effects produced by well rubbing the legs of a 
 tired horse. While every enlargement subsides, and the 
 painful stillness disappears, and the legs attain their uat- 
 
172 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 ural warmth, and become fine, the animal is evidently 
 and rapidly reviving; he attacks his food with appetite, 
 and then quietly lies down to rest. 
 EXERCISE. 
 Our observations on this important branch of stable 
 management must have only a slight reference to the ag- 
 ricultural horse. His work is usually regular and not 
 exhausting. He is neither predisposed to disease by idle- 
 ness, nor worn out by excessive exertion. He, like his 
 master, has enough to do to keep him in health and not 
 enough to distress nor injure him; on the contrary, the reg- 
 ularity of his work prolongs life to an extent rarely wit- 
 nessed in the stable of the gentleman. Our remarks on 
 exercise, then, must have a general bearing or have prin- 
 cipal reference to those persons who are in middle sta- 
 tions of life, and who contrive to keep a horse for busi- 
 ness or pleasure, but cannot afford to maintain a servant 
 far the express purpose of looking after it. The first 
 rule that I would lay down is tliat every horse should 
 have daily exercise. The animal that, with the usual 
 stable feeding, stands idle for three or four days, as is the 
 case in many establishments, must suffer. He is predis- 
 posed to fever, or to grease, or, worst of all, diseases of 
 the feet ; and if, after three or four days of inactivity, he 
 is ridden far and fast, he is almost sure to have inflamma- 
 tion of the lungs, or of the feet. A gentleman's or trades- 
 man's horse suffers a great deal more from idleness thau 
 he does from work. A stable-fed horse should have two 
 hours exercise every day, if he is to be kept free from 
 disease. Nothing of extraordinary, or even of ordinary 
 labor, can be effected on the road or in the field without 
 sufficient and regular exercise. It is this alone which 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 173 
 
 can give energy to the system, or develop the power of 
 any animal. In training the trotter and the running horse, 
 regular exercise is the most important of all considera- 
 tions, however it may be forgotten in the usual manage- 
 ment of the stable. The exercised horse will discharge 
 his task (and sometimes a severe one) with ease and pleas- 
 ure, while the idle and neglected one will be fatigued ere 
 half his labor is accomplished, and if he is pushed a little 
 too far, dangerous inflammation will ensue. How often, 
 nevertheless, does it happen, that the horse which haa 
 stood inactive, in the stable three or four days, is ridden 
 or driven thirty or forty miles in the course of a single 
 day ! This rest is often purposely given to prepare for extra 
 exertion ; to lay in a stock of strength for the performance 
 of the task "required of him, and then the owner is sur- 
 prised and dissatisfied if the animal becomes stiffened or 
 seriously ill. Nothing is so common and so preposter- 
 ous, as for a person to buy a horse from a dealer's stable, 
 where he has been idly fattened for sale for many a day, 
 and immediately to give him a long drive, and then to 
 complain bitterly and think he has been imposed upon if 
 the animal is exhausted before he arrives at his destina- 
 tion, and is compelled to be led home, suffering from vio- 
 lent inflammation. Regular and gradually increasing ex- 
 ercise would have made the same horse appear a treasure 
 to his owner. Exercise should be somewhat proportioned 
 to the age of the horse. A young horse requires more 
 than an old one. Nature has given to young animals of 
 every kind a disposition to activity, but the exercise must 
 not be violent. A great deal depends upon the manner 
 in wliicli it is given. To preserve the temper and pro- 
 mote health, it should be moderate, at least at the begin- 
 
174 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 ning and the termination. The rapid trot or even the 
 gallop may be resorted to in the middle of the exercise, 
 but the horse should be brought in cool. There are many 
 other points in stable management we would like to men- 
 tion, but the size of our little volume will not admit of it. 
 
 CLOSING REMARKS. 
 
 Now dear reader, a word with you, and we are done. 
 We have endeavored, in writing the system, to fully explain 
 it, so that none need go astray ; but it must be remembered, 
 in handling wild and vicious horses, you have different dis- 
 positions to contend with. Every one who understands 
 the true philosophy of horsemanship, knows tliat when 
 we have a horse that is high mettled, wild, and lively, we 
 can train him to our will in a very short time, for such 
 are generally quick to learn, and always ready to obey 
 But there is au other kind which are of a stabborn or vi 
 cious disposition, and although they are not wild, requir 
 ing no taming in the sense that is generally understood 
 they are just as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so 
 and need to be educated just as much. And in order xo 
 have them obey quickly, it is necessary that they should 
 be made to fear their masters; for in order to obtain per- 
 fect obedience from any horse we must first have him fear us; 
 for our motto is, " Fear, love, and obey," and we must have 
 the fulfilhnent of the first two, before we can expect the 
 letter : and it is by our philosophy of creating fear, love, and 
 confidence, that we govern to our will any kind of a horse 
 whatever. Then in order to take horses as we find them, 
 or more particularly if they are of a stubborn or mulish 
 disposition — if he lays back his ears as you approach him, 
 or turns his heels to kick you — he has not the regard or fear 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 175 
 
 of man that he shouki have to enable you to handle him 
 quickly and easily. In such cases give him a few sharp 
 cuts with the whip about the legvS, pretty close to the 
 body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and 
 the crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke. 
 Beside, one sharp cut about the legs will affect him more 
 than two or three over the back, the skin on the inner 
 part of the legs, or about the flank, being thinner and 
 more tender than on his back. But we do not whip him 
 much — ^just enough to scare him. It is not because we wish 
 to hurt the horse that we whip him, we only do it to scare 
 the bad disposition out of him. But whatever you do 
 do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of force, but 
 always without anger. If you are going to scare him at 
 all, you must do it at once; never go into a pitched bat- 
 tle with your horse, and whip him until he. is mad, and 
 will fight you. You had better not touch him at all ; for 
 you will establish, instead of fear and regard, a feeling of 
 resentment, hatred and ill-will. It will do him no good, 
 but an injury, to strike a blow, unless you can scare him; 
 but if you succeed in scaring him you can whip him with- 
 out making him mad, for fear and anger never exist to- 
 gether in the horse ; and as soon as one is visible you 
 will find that the other has disappeared. As soon as you 
 have frightened him so that he will stand up straight, and 
 pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress 
 him a good deal more than you have whipped him ; then 
 you will excite two controlling passions of his nature — love 
 and fear — and then he will fear and love you too ; and so 
 soon as he learns what to do, he will quickly obey. . With 
 these remarks upon the principles of my theory, I have 
 endeavored to teach you how to put them in practice, and 
 
176 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 all the instructions written you may rely on as having 
 been proven practically by my own experiments ; and 
 knowing from experience just what obstacles I have met 
 with in handling bad horses, I have tried to anticipate 
 them for your good, and assist you in surmounting them 
 by commencing with the first steps taken with the colt, 
 and accompanying you through the whole task of breaking. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 177 
 
 TRAINING STEERS. 
 
 AS TAUGHT BY A. H. ROCKWELL. 
 
 HOW TO TEACH STEERS TO OBEY THE WHIP. 
 
 First get your steer into a room, or small yard, so that 
 he cannot run from you, then approach him gently and 
 slowly, and if he runs do not be in a hurry ; wait till he 
 gets to the end of the enclosure, then approach him slowly, 
 as before. A steer will often run from you in this way 
 six or eight times. Do not try to stop him with your 
 whip, or force him to think he will be at all injured, un- 
 til he will stand and suffer you to approach him, As 
 soon as this is accomplished, gently tie a rope around his 
 body, near the shoulders, rather loosely. Then take 
 another rope, or strap, and gently fasten one end to the 
 near forward foot, then pass the other end over the rope, 
 or surcingle beneath the body. This rope should be suf- 
 ficiently long to allow him to run to the end of the en- 
 closure without your moving, at the same time you hold- 
 ing the roj.e firm to compel him to move on three legs. 
 Then approach him again, quietly ; he will not run off in 
 this way but a few times before he fully comprehends 
 that he will not be injured, when he will suffer you to ap- 
 proach and handle him just as you please. Now take a 
 short hold of the strap with your left hand, your whip in 
 your right, which pass over his shoulders, and quietly 
 touch him upon the of!' side of his head, at the same time 
 saying "haw," and continue this until he moves his head 
 a little towards you. Then stop and caress him upon 
 
178 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 and about his neck and head. Repeat this until he haws 
 around towards you. If he attempts to run from you, 
 pull upon the strap, saying " whoa " and at the same 
 time hitting him lightly upon the head with the whip. 
 As soon as he learns in this way to stop at the word of 
 command, and comes toward you readily, take off the 
 strap and surcingle, and turn him out. Then take the 
 mate, and give him the same course of training until* you 
 can accomplish with him a like result. Then turn hini 
 out. By this time the first steer is cool, and rested, ready 
 to receive another lesson. Now drive him into the inclo- 
 sure, and repeat his lessons with the whip. Then quietly 
 touch him gently upon the near side of the head, at 
 the same time saying " gee," until he will step around 
 from you, then caress and repeat until he will gee or haw 
 readily. Then repeat the same lesson with his mate, 
 which is all that is necessary to he done the first half day. 
 Then take both together in the same room, or yard, and 
 repeat these lessons until they have a thorough under- 
 standing of what you have done. Then take one of them 
 near the wall, standing by his side hitting with your whip 
 gently over the head, at the same time saying " back," 
 until he will step back, for which caress. Repeat this 
 until he will go back at the word readily. Then give the 
 other steer the same lesson. You will find this course of 
 training will make your steers quite obedient, and will- 
 ing to haw, gee, or back, which will be all that you should 
 require in one day's time. The next morning, or when 
 you have time, repeat this lesson with both together. 
 Then place the yoke upon them, and let them go for an 
 hour or two, or sufficiently long to become fully reconciled 
 to the restraint of the yoke. Then repeat your lessons in 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 179 
 
 open yard, until they fully understand what you require 
 of them yoked together. 
 
 This course of training does not excite, while it conveys 
 the idea most clearly of what is required, and will enable 
 the trainer to accomplish more in a given time than has 
 yet been done by any other system of managing steers. 
 If your steers have learned to run away from you, which 
 is a common result of the ordinary method of training, 
 put on the rope and strap, to the foot. If hitched to a 
 wagon, or stone load, let your man hold the foot strap, 
 which runs back between the steers, and the moment 
 they attempt to run, let him pull up the feet, while you 
 whip over the head, which will stop them immediately, and 
 will very soon break up the habit. 
 
 KICKING COWS. 
 It is natural for the cow to stand while being milked. 
 Consequently, the heifer knows nothing about kicking 
 until hurt, or frigliteued into it. The lesson in regard to 
 heifers is therefore perfectly plain. Be careful and not 
 hurt nor frighten them. If, by accident, you should, and 
 they kick, do not punish them for it. Kindness and 
 gentle handling is the only remedy. If your cow kicks, 
 let your reasoning for the cause be based upon the princi- 
 ple that she never kicked until she was injured, and the 
 remedy will at once suggest itself. No cow was ever 
 broken of kicking by striking with the stool or other 
 weapon. This practice only puts the cow on her guard, 
 and, as you come near her with the stool, she uses nature's 
 defence and kicks. Handle her gently. If she walks off 
 or kicks, pay no attention to it, using no loud words nor 
 blows. If her teats are sore, she is quite liable to do 
 
180 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 either; and you must have patience until they are healed. 
 In our experience, we have never found a confirmed 
 kicker in a yard where kindness was a characteristic of the 
 family who handled the dairy ; on the contrary, we have 
 found plenty of them, where quarreling, loud words and 
 general bad temper prevailed. Now, if you have a bad, 
 kicking cow, you must have a plan by which you can 
 control and break her of the vice. Take your surcingle 
 and buckl-e it around her waist, just back of the fore legs; 
 then attach your pole-strap to the ten-inch strap, and 
 buckle around the nigh hind foot; then carry the pole- 
 strap through the fourth ring of the surcingle, and draw 
 the foot from the floor ; let her remain in that position 
 for a few moments; then gradually lower the foot until 
 she can partially rest it on the floor; while in that position, 
 it will be impossible for her to kick, and, in a short time, 
 she will be effectually broken of the vice. 
 
 TRAINING DOGS. 
 The dog is the most domesticatcil, and (next to the 
 horse) the most intelligent of all animals. He is easily 
 taught, and, if properly treated, is a faithful and willing 
 servant of man ; if misused and ill treated, he is very apt 
 to become disagreeable, and a nuisance. The dog being 
 a favorite of mankind, it becomes a duty to educate him 
 in such a manner that he will not only reflect credit, but 
 become useful to his master, besides being an agreeable 
 inmate to all members of the household. We have given 
 particular attention to the subject, it being one which 
 cannot fail to interest all readers. We have at present 
 two of the best trained dogs in the country — Minnie, an 
 Italian greyhound, and Tasso, a black and tan. They 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 181 
 
 are made to understand any words of the English lan- 
 guage, simply by teaching them the act, and then the 
 word from the act. The rules whereby any persons can 
 educate a dog are simple, and easily understood, but it is 
 necessary to be patient, kind and persevering — (the same. 
 as in all things). We give a few rules — sufficient to ena- 
 ble the operator to practice many more. Their are dif- 
 ferent breeds of dogs, and, of course, as many different 
 habits and dispositions as breed ; consequently it will re- 
 quire judgment to train them to that to which they are 
 best adapted by nature. For instance, the St. Bernard is 
 a faithful watch dog, while the setter will scent game with- 
 out training; a terrier will catch rats, and the grey-hound 
 takes to running from his birth. It is necessary there- 
 fore, in attempting to teach the dog. to bear in mind 
 these natural habits, being careful not to urge upon him 
 the performance of any duties, or tricks, which are mani- 
 festly not in his nature to do. When selecting dogs for 
 any particular lesson, study this subject closely, as un- 
 doubtedly it is the most useful lesson to be taught. We 
 have not given so much attention to educating the shepherd 
 or the watch dog to drive; not being so fond of this kind 
 as of teaching the more intelligent class of dogs certain 
 tricks, &c., but we will give you the knowledge of the 
 above as we obtained it from a celebrated dog trainer. 
 
 TRAINING THE SHEPHERD TO DRIVE. 
 
 Take a well-bred shepherd dog, about six months old, 
 reared in some secluded place hearing no words with a 
 meaning intended to be attached except his name. He 
 should know nothing of the ordinary words in use towards 
 dogs, and not have been handled ) y boys or careless per- 
 
182 * THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 sons. Take him alone with yon into a large room. The 
 first thing to be done is to teach him to lead ; to do this, place 
 a strap around his neck, that cannot hart him, to which at- 
 tach a cord six or eight feet in length ; stand still, and 
 hold upon the cord for a few minutes, until he ceases 
 struggling to get away. It is best to give one lesson each 
 day during the whole training. The first two lessons 
 should be devoted to teaching him that he cannot get away. 
 Now, conunence teaching him to come to you, by pulling 
 upon the rope, and saying, "Here," using only the one 
 word. In the use of this as well as all other words used in 
 training the dog, one word is all it is best to try and 
 teach him for any one act, it being so difficult to make 
 him understand, if you attempt to teach him more. When 
 he is once fixed in the habit of minding the word, you 
 may then use such other words in connection therewith, 
 as are pleasant to the ear, as, for instance, " come here, 
 sir." Without the word here he will not know what you 
 mean, and the others being meaningless to him, do not 
 puzzle him. He will also be less liable to have too many 
 masters, as the one word will not be likely to be used 
 every time by a person unacquainted with your mode of 
 training. Of course, if you prefer it, you may, in giving 
 the lesson, substitute other words for those laid down; but 
 we give those which are readiest to the tongae. As the 
 dog comes up, whether voluntarily or not, say, "Do" and 
 caress him. A lesson of an hour or two, each time work- 
 ing slowly and patiently, will be about right. Proceed 
 with it until -he will come to you from any portion of the 
 room, at the word "Here." He will have learned by this 
 time, probably, that the word "Do" is for him to understand 
 that you are through with him. When he perfectly realizes 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 183 
 
 this you may then prefix words, and say " that will do," 
 emphasizing the word do each time. You may also 
 now say, " Come here," remembering that the words here 
 and do are the only ones he obeys. He cannot connect 
 sentences, nor be made to understand them when once con- 
 nected. You now wish him to learn the words " Go" and 
 "Halt." To do thisj yon will place yourself in a portion 
 of the room opposite to where the dog would naturally 
 desire to go (the door, for instance, or something that 
 would attract, him such as food,) say " Go" and by coax- 
 ing and urging him, start him along, as he gets part of 
 the way, say "Halt," pulling upon the string, stopping him 
 and saying "Halt"'again. Proceed with this until he has, 
 learned to obey both the words, " Go" and " Halt." To 
 teach these four words named, will generally take three 
 or four weeks. Now let him learn to bark at the word 
 " Speak," by holding up something which he wants very 
 much, for instance, food, when he is very hungry. You 
 may then let him loose, and let him run about with you 
 (previously keeping him confined, but not in a narrow 
 place), being watchful that he does not stray off, nor be 
 hurt, nor handled by others. He will soon become handy 
 about the house, you having control of him through the 
 words you have tauglit him and you can keep himiu his place 
 by the word of command. For instance, if you wish him 
 to go out of doors, show him the door, and say." Go out." 
 The word "go" will start him, and in a little while he 
 will become familiar with the word "out." Give him a 
 fixed place to sleep, and teach him its name.- If you have 
 a dog already trained to drive and go behind, take him 
 out with him to drive in the cattle. He will learn that 
 they will run from him. Say nothing to him while he is 
 
184 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 with the other dog, unless he attempts to go to the head 
 of any of the cattle. This you must not allow. After 
 two or three times, take him out without the other dog, 
 and allow him to run after the cattle, provided the cattle 
 are used to being driven by dogs. It will not do to let 
 him run M'here there is a chance of being turned upon. 
 If he drives them too fast, say "Steady. "He will not know 
 what you mean, but, as you use words with him only 
 when they mean something, he will be apt to pay atten- 
 tion and go slower. If he does not, say " Halt," then 
 " Go," steadying him by the word " Steady," if possible. 
 He will gradually learn its meaning by its repetition. If 
 you have no other dog you will let him go without, being 
 more watchful of him, that he does not go to the head of 
 the cattle, otherwise say nothing to him, except " Go," 
 not letting him start until he gets the word. After 
 a while you may proceed to practice upon the other words 
 he knows. If he shows no disposition to bite at the heels, 
 or pull at the tail, take a rope, and tie a knot a short 
 distance up, fringe out the end, and play with him with 
 the rope, letting him catch hold of it, and causing him to 
 bark at it by using the word " Speak." When he takes 
 hold of the rope say " Up," and when you wish him to 
 let go " Do." You may then with a slow cow, call him 
 up, and taking hold of the tail, say " Up," and " Speak,'' 
 to teach him to take hold of the tail and bark, when you 
 say, " Start em up," and '' Speak to them," and to let go 
 when you say " That will do." Now accustom him to 
 the word " Fetch," for sheep, and " Get," for cattle, etc., 
 so that when you say" Go and get the cattle," he knows 
 that you mean cattle instead of sheep or horses. You may 
 now teaeh him to know the right from the left, and to obey 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 185 
 
 your orders in that respect, by taking him into a large 
 room, and, by the motion of your right hand, try to have 
 him go to the right from yoa, saying " Go — right." If 
 he does not do it, say " Halt," and repeat. When he 
 does do it, say " That will do." Continue this until he 
 will go to the right at the motion of your hand and the 
 word "Right " ; then making motions with your left hand, 
 and using the word " Left," you teach him the opposite .By 
 these motions, and an appeal to the intelligence of the 
 dog, by your countenance and eyes, you can start him for 
 the fields in any direction you choose, and he soon learns 
 to do what you want with very little telling. Following 
 these rules will satisfy you that the dog can be taught 
 indefinitely respecting all things which pertain to his pe- 
 culiar nature. 
 
 THE WATCH DOG. 
 For a good watch dog, select one of a breed adapted to 
 the business. There is but little that you can teach such 
 an one, as it is somewhat of a natural trait, and any other 
 than a natural watch dog, however much you may labor 
 with him, will never be reliable. A barking dog, one 
 that will be noisy on the approach of intruders, is the 
 best. A dog that bites, but does not bark, is only tit to 
 put in barns or other out-buildings, nights, chaining him 
 up day times; and then he is dangerous even to his keep- 
 er, as a sudden start will cause him to bite any one. To 
 teach your dog, give him something to watch, saying 
 "Take care of it," as you place him near the object. He 
 will soon learn the word, and upon being directed to any 
 particular thing will faithfully guard it. While teaching 
 him, allow no one but yourself to approach him, without 
 setting him on. You may have a stranger approach him 
 
186 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 and tease him, you urging him to drive the stranger away, 
 and as soon as he starts, let the person run, you calling 
 the dog back. While young do not compel him to stay 
 too long at one thing, and wheii you go up to him and 
 say, '' That will do," feed him something. After the 
 manner spoken of in the previous illustration, whenever 
 you wish the dog to bite, or go at any person or thing, 
 you will teach him the words the reverse of what you 
 mean, such as " Be still," "Get out," "Lie down." You 
 will see that a person not understandiug the dog will not 
 be very apt to get near him, as he would naturally make 
 use of those words, and they would be setting him on in- 
 stead of quieting him. To call him yourself, use such 
 convenient word as you choose, but not one naturally 
 used by others. As this ingenious use of words is about 
 the only new idea we can suggest to teach watch dogs, 
 the masters can use his own ingenuity to render it 
 practical. 
 
 THE TRICK DOG. 
 
 Many amusing tricks may be taught which will exhib- 
 it in a wonderful degree the intelligence of the dog. As 
 we have before said, much depends upon the breed. A 
 dog of one peculiar breed may be taught a certain class 
 of tricks, while that of another breed will be entirely dif- 
 ferent in his characteristics. A well-br^d dog is hard to 
 learn any tricks except those pertaining to his nature ; 
 while a mongrel cur is quite easy to learn any. Perhaps 
 a Spaniel poodle dog is the most tractable of any; a black- 
 ' and-tan is quite apt. We give a few examples, sufficient 
 to form a groundwork for the intelligent operator to ex- 
 tend his list of tricks at his pleasure. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 187 
 
 THE FIRST STEP TO BE TAKEN. 
 
 When you are preparing the dog to receive his first les- 
 son, it is necessary to place him where you can control 
 him. Procure a piece of cord ten feet long, and one-fourth 
 of an inch in diameter, tie a knot at each end — one that 
 will not slip. Take one end, place it around the dog's 
 neck, to get the size, then tie another knot, and ao-ain 
 place it around his neck, slipping the end with knot 
 through, and make fast. The proper way of training him 
 is with a whip^ a small riding whip. In giving him his 
 first lesson, should he attempt to run from you (as he un- 
 doubtedly will), give him a sudden jerk and say, " Come 
 here ;" as he comes back, talk gently, pat and caress him ; 
 that is to show him he has done right in coming back. 
 A few pulls with the cord, and he will not attempt to. 
 leave you. 
 
 TO TEACH HIM TO SIT DOWN . 
 
 Press your hand upon his back toward the hind legs 
 and say, " sit down," at the same time tapping with your 
 foot upon the floor. If he attempts to lie down or draw 
 his feet under him, coax him up, and teach him that "sit 
 down " is what you are after, tapping him under the chin 
 to keep his head well up. He will, after a few lessons, 
 sit down at the word and a tapping of your foot on the 
 floor, or with your whip, holding him by the cord ; tap 
 him lightly on the top of the quarters, saying "sit down," 
 each time a little harder, until he sits down, then pat him 
 to show he has done right. 
 
 TO MAKE A BOW.' 
 
 When he gets handy, and will sit down at the word, 
 then say to him, " make a bow." This trick he will 
 learn in a very short time. As he sits down, place 
 
188 THE KORSE OWNER's 
 
 yonr right hand on the top of his head, and with a quick 
 move press down, saying, "make a bow." By accompa- 
 nying the word with the act, quite often, each day, for a 
 few days, he will understand the word without the act, 
 and obey readily. 
 
 TO TEACH HIM TO SIT UP. 
 
 Set him up in the corner, and with a switch, hit him 
 lightly under the mouth, snapping your finger and saying 
 " sit up." As he comes down, put him back and repeat, 
 until he remains, which he will do in a few minutes, then 
 say "that will do," and coax him down, and caress him. 
 When he has learned this sufficiently, set him up against 
 a wall and try the same thing. This will require more 
 patience, as he can so easily get over to either side. When, 
 however, he will do it, then take him out in the centre of 
 the floor ; this will take still longer, but if followed up, 
 kindly, and perseveringly, he will learn to perform the 
 trick at the word and the snapping of the finger. 
 
 TO STAND UP. 
 
 Take some food in your hands, and offer it to him, hold- 
 ing it well up, and say "stand up." Repeat this until 
 he will stand up quite readily, holding out your unoccu- 
 pied hand for him to support his fore-feet on. Gradually 
 take away your hand, each time that he comes up, saying 
 "stand up." Then take him by the forward feet, and 
 lift him up quite hard, and say, " stand up." You will 
 soon get him so that when you lift him he will straighten 
 up and show signs of standing ; then make the effort to 
 teach him to stand up at the word, and the holding out of 
 your hand. You may now combine this with the last 
 trick, saying, " sit up," " stand up," " that will do." These 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 189 
 
 are the first tricks he should be taught, as they are the 
 foundatiou for others. 
 
 TO GET INTO A CHAIR. 
 
 This is easily done, taking your own way to coax him 
 iuto the chair, using the word "chair" whenever you 
 cause him to get into it. When he becomes familiar with 
 the word, accompanied with a motion of the hand towards 
 a chair, you may use other words in connection there- 
 with, "Go and get into the chair." After he will do 
 this handily, you may then teach him to put his paws upon 
 the back of the chair, by asking him " to put them up," or 
 saying " up," assisting him at first. When he will do it 
 readily, you may teach him to put his head down upon his 
 paws, by placing it there, and repeating the word "down," 
 of course caressing him each time that he complies. To 
 have him hold up his head, tap him under the mouth 
 and say " up," remembering to say " that will do," when 
 you are through the trick. You may teach him to jump 
 over the chair by playfully coaxing him to do so, saying 
 "jump." 
 
 TO MAKE HIM GO LAMB. 
 
 Tap him with a little rod upon the hind foot, saying 
 " lame," teaching him to stand and hold it up whenever 
 you say " lame." Now coax him along, and if he puts 
 it down, hit him quite smartly on the foot, making him 
 keep it up until he will go lame at the word and a motion 
 of the rod. Now whenever you send him to the chair, as 
 before, as he goes to jump down, stop him, teaching him 
 to wait for the word " do," as he comes down with his 
 fore-feet on the floor, say " steady," and teach him to stop 
 with his hind legs in the chair. He is now ready 
 
190 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 TO RUIT OW HIS FORWARD LEGS. 
 
 To teach him this, take hoki of his hind legs, lift them 
 up and walk him around in a circle, and place them in a 
 chair, saying "romid." Do this every time you perform 
 the trick of having him get into a chair. After a while 
 take him by the tail and lift him up, and, switching his 
 hind legs lightly, walk him around in the same manner, 
 saying "round," as before. With patience and perse- 
 verance he will learn to lift up his hind legs at the motion 
 of the whip, and. on the words "go round," perform a 
 circle, walking on his forward feet, and place his hind feet 
 in the chair ; of course the height of the chair must be 
 ad^Dted to the length of the dog's legs. 
 
 TO SIT ON A STOOL. 
 
 It is now very easy to teach him to "sit down" on a 
 low stool. You may then teach him to "take a seat" on 
 the stool by leading him around by his forward feet, and 
 setting him on the stool with his forward feet held up, 
 saying "seat;" you then have him learned to go on all 
 fours, to sit down on the stool, and to go on his hind feet 
 and take a seat with his forward feet up. 
 
 TO TEACH HIM TO FIND THINGS. 
 
 Take something with which he is accustomed to play, 
 and, after getting him enlivened with play, call him up to 
 you and blindfold him, and throw the article a short dis- 
 tance from you. If the dog has good scent, tell him you 
 have "lost," then remove the blindfold and he will search 
 and find it. Repeat this, throwing it farther each time, 
 until you can throw your knife or anything which you 
 have held in your hand, at a distance, you looking in the 
 direction and saying, " I have lost my knife." He will 
 search until he finds and brings it to you. If the dog 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 191 
 
 has not good scent, teach him to look down at the word 
 " find," and up at the word " up," doing as before. We 
 have now given a sufficient number of examples to set 
 forth the important rules which govern the teaching of 
 dogs. By an observance of these, you may teach your 
 dog to climb ladders, fetch things to you, carry baskets, 
 roll over, lie down, shut doors, and an almost innumerable 
 number of tricks. To teach the dog, however, you must 
 have perfect control over your temper, never whip severely, 
 never get out of patience. 
 
 TO TEACH HIM TO CREEP. 
 First make him lie down on all fours ; then get upon 
 your knees, take your dog's fore paws in your hands, and 
 rest the back of your hands on the floor; draw your hands, 
 first one and then the other, toward you, saying " creep, 
 creep, sir." If he attempts to get up, hold his fore 
 legs fast to the floor, saying " careful, sir." As soon 
 as he stops stru;j:gling, begin again. This is one of the 
 easiest tricks for a dog to learn, and can be taught him in 
 a very short time. 
 
 TO BE A DEAD DOG. 
 Take your dog by the fore shoulders; say to him "be 
 dead ; " at the same time lay him down on his side. He 
 will at first struggle to get up, but hold him fast, and when 
 he is quiet, take your hands from him. Work slowly and 
 carefully. If he attempts to get up, hold his head to the 
 floor again. In a short time he will lie down upon his 
 side at the word " dead." When you wish him to get up, 
 change your voice, and speak quickly but not harshly, 
 " that will do, sir," or " dinner is ready," or " beefsteak," 
 or any word you wish, and after he has thoroughly learned 
 the word he will not get up until you speak it. 
 
192 ' THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 TO BALANCE ON THE BACK OP A CHAIR. 
 
 Take a common bar-voom chair — one with wide arms 
 is best ; coax your dog np into it ; take his fore paws and 
 place them on the arm of the chair ; pat and caress him 
 as you proceed. Now get another chair, and place it 
 about a foot from the first ; stand on the outside of the 
 chair, and coax him to come to you. They sometimes 
 will jump over the arm; if they do, put them back again 
 and speak out sharply, " careful." Try him again. He 
 then will probably put all his feet on the arm of the chair. 
 If he does, take the second chair away, and step in front of 
 him as quickly as possible ; put your hand under his chin 
 and steady him ; gradually take your hand away, and pat 
 and caress him. If you have a small piece of meat to 
 give him, so much the better ; but never caress nor feed 
 him unless he does right. 
 
 TO TEACH HIM TO WALTZ. 
 
 First teach him to stand up. Then take a piece of 
 meat and hold it up above his head. If he jumps for it, 
 take it out of bis way, and give him a slight cuff on the ear. 
 Now say to him " stand up." If he obeys you, give him 
 a small piece. Then hold another piece near his nose, and 
 carry it around over his head, saying, " waltz." If he 
 turns after it give it to him. Try him so for several times ; 
 then make him turn two or three times before you reward 
 him. Work this way for a short time, and he will waltz 
 for you at the word, without any reward. 
 
 DISEASES OF THE DOG. 
 Administering Medicine. — We will commence this 
 work by giving directions how to administer medi 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 193 
 
 cine. If 3"our dog is not large, you can manage him by 
 yourself. Invert a bucket and sit on it ; set the dog down 
 on his haunches, between your legs, holding him with 
 your knees; tie a cloth around his neck; this, falling over 
 his fore paws is pressed against his ribs by your knees ; 
 his fore legs, by this dodge, are " hors du combat." With 
 the finger and thumb of one hand force open the jaws, 
 elevating his head at the same time with the same 
 hand. If a bolus, with the other hand pass it over 
 the roots of his tongue, and give it a sharp poke down- 
 ward ; close the mouth, still holding up the head till 
 you see it swallowed. If a draught, give a mouthful, 
 close the mouth, hold up the head, and stop the nostrils. 
 Repeat this if the drauglit is too large to be taken at once. 
 If the dog is very large you must have an assistant, else in 
 his struggles he will upset you and the medicine too. 
 
 Physic. — In giving a dog physic, be sure to keep him 
 warm and dry, especially if you use calomel or mercurial 
 preparations. Always remove him from the kennel and 
 put him into a hospital apart from the rest, to prevent 
 infection, as well as to insure the poor brute quietness. 
 Study the appearance of the eyes, feet, nose, extremities, 
 pulse, etc. 
 
 To Make a. Bitch Inclined to Copulate. — Seven drops 
 tincture of cantharides twice a day till effect is produced; 
 about six days probably. 
 
 Mange. — Caused by dirty kennels, neglect, want of 
 nourishing, or improper food. Cure — 1 oz. salts, if dog of 
 moderate size ; rub every third day, well into the skin, of 
 the following mixture : train oil (tanner's will do), 1 quart; 
 spirits turpentine, 1 large wine glass full; sulphur, sufft- 
 cient to make a thin paste ; mix well ; let it stay on the an 
 
194 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 imal two weeks, then wash well with castile soap and warm 
 water. 
 
 Worms. — Cowhage, ^ drachm ; tin fillings (very fine), 
 4 drachms ; make into four or six balls, according to size 
 of dog ; one daily, and a few hours afterwards, a purge of 
 salts or aloes. Another remedy — powdered glass, as much 
 as will lie on a quarter of a dollar, mixed with lard. Re- 
 peat once or twice alternate days ; finish off with one or 
 two drachms of soctrine aloes rolled up in tissue paper. 
 
 To Make a Doq Fine in his Coat. — A table-spoonful 
 of tar and oatmeal ; make bolus. 
 
 To Destroy Lice. — Sometimes the recipe for fleas will 
 prove efncacioiis, but not always ; put a small quantity of 
 mercurial ointment, reduced by adding hog's lard to it, 
 say an equal quantity, ruBbed along the back never fails ; 
 but the greatest care must be taken to keep the animal 
 warm and dry. 
 
 Distemper. — Distemper is caused by low keep, neglect 
 and change of atmosphere. Symptoms of the disease are 
 as follows : Loss of spirit, activity and appetite, drowsiness, 
 dulness of the eyes, lying at length with nose to the ground 
 coldness of extremities, legs, ears and lips, heat in head and 
 body, running at the nose and eyes, accompanied by sneez- 
 ing, emaciation and weakness, dragging of hind quarters, 
 flanks drawn in, diarrhoea, and sometimes vomiting. There 
 are several receipts for this, the worst of all diseases. One 
 is better than another, according to the various stages. 
 The first, if taken at an early stage, seldom ftiils; half an 
 ounce ef salts in warm water, when first taken ill ; thirty- 
 six hours afterwards, ten grains compound powder of ipe- 
 cacuanha in warm water. If in two days he is not better, 
 take sixteen grains antimonial powder, made into four 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 195 
 
 boluses, one night and morning for two days. If no im- 
 pro7ement is visible, continue these pills, unless diarrhoea 
 comes on, in which case you must use the ipecacuanha day, 
 aboujt with the pills. If the animal is mnch weakened by 
 this, give him one teaspoonful IIuKam's tinctura of bark 
 three times a day. James' powder is almost a certain rem- 
 edy — dose, four grains. In case of fits coming on de- 
 stroy the animal. The same may be said of paralysis. If 
 this disease is taken in its early stages and attended to, 
 and the dog kept warm, there is not much danger, other- 
 wise it is very fatal. 
 
 Bilious Fever is caused by want of exercise and to'o 
 high feeding. Calumel, six or eight grains, or in an obsti- 
 nate case, turpeth mineral or yellow mercury, six to twelve 
 grains in a bolus. 
 
 Inflammation of the Bowels. — Symptoms: dulness 
 of appearance and eyes; loss of appetite ; lying on the 
 belly with outstretched legs : pulse much quickened ; 
 scratching up the bed into a heap, and pressing the belly 
 on it, desire to swallow stones, coal or any cold substance 
 not voidable; inclination to hide away. It is very danger- 
 ous, and requires active treatment. Bleed most freely 
 until the dog faints away : clap a blister on the pit of the 
 stomach. Give aloes fifteen grains, opium half a grain ; 
 repeat dose three times a day. Bleed after twelve hours 
 if the {Hilse rises again, and continue dosing and bleeding 
 till either the dog or inflammation gives in. No half meas- 
 ures do in this case. If you get the upper hand there is no 
 trouble ; if not it is fatal. Feed low, and attend carefully 
 to prevent relapse. 
 
 Staggers and Fits. — This generally happens in warm 
 weather. Throw water on them if convenient; if not 
 
196 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 bleed in the neck, if you have lancets ; if not, slit the ears 
 with your knife (you can cause them to adhere together 
 again), or run your knife across two or three bars next the 
 teeth. Bitches coming off heat are more subject to this 
 than dogs in good health. 
 
 Bleeding — You may readily bleed a dog in the jugu- 
 lar vein, by holding up his head, stopping the circulation at 
 the base of the neck. . Part the hair, and with the lancet 
 make an incision, taking care not to stick him too deeply. 
 If the animal rejoices in a heavy coat, it may be necessary 
 to shave away the hair. From one to eight ounces are the 
 quantities ; use your own judgment. 
 
 Canker in the Ear. — Wash well with soap and warm 
 water ; fill the ear with finely powdered charcoal or pow- 
 dered borax. Clean out daily with sponge on stick and 
 warm water, and repeat the dusting till it heals. Another 
 remedy. Oak bark, one pound, chopped fine and well 
 boiled in soft water. When cold take of the decoction 
 of bark four ounces ; sugar of lead, half a drachm, put a 
 teaspoonful into the ear night and morning, rubbing the 
 root of the ear well to cause it to get well into the cavi- 
 ties. This is one of the best receipts in this book. 
 
 External Canker of the Ear. — Butter of antimo- 
 ny diluted in milk to the thickness of cream, will cure it ; 
 or red precipitate, half an ounce with two ounces of hog's 
 lard, mixed well. 
 
 For a Strain. — Use Bertine's liniment, or one ounce 
 of turpentine, half pint old beer, half pint brine, bathe 
 the part and repeat, or sal ammonia, one ounce, vinegar, 
 one pint. 
 
 Bruises or Strains of Long Standing. — Gall and 
 opodeMoc are excellent; shaved camphor, two ounces ; 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 197 
 
 spirits of wine, three quarters of a pint ; shake well, and 
 cork close, placing it near the fire until the camphor dis- 
 solves; then add a bullock's gall, shake well together; 
 apply, rubbing it well into the part affected until it 
 lathers. 
 
 Dog Poisoned. — Give a teacup full of castor oil, after 
 he has vomited well, continue to pour olive oil down his 
 throat and rub his belly. 
 
 Fleas. — Scotch snuff steeped in gin is infallible ; but 
 must be used with great care, and not above a teaspoonful 
 of snuff to a pint of gin — as the cure, if overdone, is a 
 deadly poison. 
 
 Torn Ears, — Laudanum and brandy, equal parts, mix 
 well ; apply alternately with sweet oil. 
 
 Swelled Teats. — Make pomade of camphorated spirit 
 of brandy, and goose grease ; apply two to three times 
 daily. 
 
 To Extract Thorns. — Cobbler's wax bound on to the 
 place, or black pitch plaster or a poultice are equally 
 good. 
 
 Films oyer the Eyes. — Blue-stone or lunar caustic, 
 eight grains : spring water, one ounce. Wash the eyes 
 with it, letting a little pass in. Repeat this daily, and 
 you will soon cure it. 
 
 Films caused by Thorn Wound^. — Rest the dog till 
 perfectly headed over, washing with rose water. If much 
 inflammation, bleed and foment with hot water, with a 
 few drops of laudanum in it — about forty drops of lauda- 
 num to one ounce of water; or two grains of opium to one 
 ounce of water — one as good as the other. Then apply 
 four or five times a day the following wash. Super-ace- 
 tate of lead half a drachm, rose water six ounces. 
 
198 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 Stripping Feet. — Wash in bran and warm water with 
 a little vinegar ; after, apply tincture of myrrh. Apply 
 sweet oil before he goes out. If his feet are sore, wash in 
 buttermilk until better, then apply brine and vinegar 
 equal parts. 
 
 Wounds. — Poultice for a day or two, then apply Fri- 
 ar's Balsam, covering up the place. 
 
 For a Geeen Wound. — Hog's lard, turpentine and 
 beeswax equal parts ; verdigris one-fourth part. Simmer 
 over a slow fire till they are well mixed and apply. 
 
 Purgative Medicines. — Salts, one ounce, calomel, 
 five grains ; or socotrine aloes, two drachms for a moderate 
 sized dog. 
 
 To REDUCE the TIME A BITCH IS IN HEAT. Give her 
 
 a little nitre in water, and a dose of calomel four grains 
 or thereabouts, followed by salts or aloes. 
 
 Feed for Greyhounds in training. — Wheat flour 
 and oat meal, old, equal parts. Liquorice, anise-seed and 
 white of eggs. Aiake into a paste ; make loaves, bake 
 them ; break into a very rich broth. 
 
 Bite of Snake. — Olive oil well rubbed in before the 
 fire, and a copious drench of it also. 
 
 . DISEASES OF THE^ HORSE. 
 
 INFLAMMATION. 
 
 From inflammo^ 1 burn, is one of the most common 
 forms of disease presented to the veterinary surgeon, and 
 regarding which many erroneous opinions have prevailed, 
 in consequence of which much injuriy and often serious 
 consequences have resulted. Sound medical practice 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 1^9 
 
 must be based upon sound medical principles. A correct 
 understanding of the term inflammation will assist us 
 very materially in understanding the pathology of dis- 
 eases in their most complicated forms. A few years since, 
 every form of disease occurring in our domestic animals 
 was regarded and treated as some form of inflammation ; 
 purging and bleeding were the order of the day. How 
 different the practice of the present time. 
 
 The manner in which inflammation has been written 
 upon, has made it a subject perfectly bewilde*-ing to the 
 general reader, and from its being associated with every 
 thing in actual practice, no idea of a very definite kind 
 with regard to it will for a long time occur to his mind. 
 With a view to overcome this difficulty, we will give the 
 most simple definition of the term inflammation. "It is an 
 uanatural or perverted action of and in the capillary 
 blood vessels of a part ; attended with redness, throbbing, 
 swelling, pain, heat and disorder of function, with change 
 in both its iluid and solid constituents, as well as with 
 more or less general disturbance of the system." The ex- 
 tent to which structures in a state of inflammation will 
 swell, varies considerably, depending upon the vital and 
 piiysical characters of the tissue involved. Muscular 
 tissue becomes very much swollen, while, on the other 
 hand, horny and cartilaginous tissues swell but little, in 
 consequence of their low state of vitality. It must be re- 
 membered that it requires an assemblage of the above 
 conditions to constitute inflammation. Swelling, pain, 
 heat or redness alone do not constitute that condition, as 
 either may occur from causes independent of any inflam- 
 matory action whatever. 
 
 We now feel prepared to proceed with our remarks 
 
200 
 
 upon the various diseases with which the horse is afflicted, 
 with a better understanding: reo^ardinof the interest of our 
 readers, than we would have done had we passed this 
 subject by unnoticed. 
 
 Capillaries. — The blood is the pabulum from whence 
 is elaborated the entire organism, as well as the source 
 from whence are derived all the various secretions and 
 excretions of the system ; but, in order that these pur- 
 poses may be accomplished, it is necessary for the fluid in 
 question to be circulated through, or its materials brought 
 in contact with every tissue requiring fresh nutrition, as 
 well as through the various secretory and excretory or- 
 gans. To effectually accomplish this, we find a class of 
 structures set apart and adaiirably adapted in every way 
 to fulfil the purposes required. The first of these is the 
 heart itself; next com.es the large blood conduits, the ar- 
 teries, which spring from the former, as the tree springs 
 from the earth ; while the arteries again terminate in a 
 series of vessels of wonderful minuteness, just as the 
 boughs of a tree terminate in the twigs. These minute 
 vessels are denominated capillaries. These capillaries 
 ramify, and are placed in the most intimate relation with 
 every tissue throughout the body within whose substance 
 reproduction and decay are in perpetual operations, as 
 well as with those organs whose duty it is to furnish or 
 sepaiate the secretions and excretions already referred to. 
 Each tissue selects from the common pabulum — the blood 
 — thus sent to it, the peculiar principle it requires to sup- 
 port its own life and integrity. 
 
 The usual terminations of inflammation are resolution, 
 mortification, suppuration, ulceration, hemorrhage, effu- 
 sion, hepatization, and ossification. By resohitt'on is 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 201 
 
 meant the state of the tissues after their recovery from 
 the effects of inflammation. 
 
 MoRTiFEOATiOxX is loss of Vitality or death of the tissues 
 involved. 
 
 Suppuration. — A collection of purulent matter, which 
 receives the name of abscess. 
 
 Ulceration. — A purulent solution of continuity of the 
 soft parts arising from loss of substance. 
 
 Hemorrhage occurs as a direct or indirect consequence 
 of inflammation, from ulceration penetrating through the 
 coats of an artery. 
 
 Effusion. — An exudation of serum, watery accumula- 
 tions, as in dropsy. 
 
 Hepatization. — Conversion of a texture into a substance 
 like liver. 
 
 Ossiification. — Formation of bone — change of soft 
 structures into bony ones. 
 
 The account we give is necessarily brief; but we trust 
 it is sufficient to furnish the reader with a clear conception 
 of the matter in hand, and in turn enable him to clearly 
 comprcliond that which is to follow. 
 
 DISEASES OF THE MOUTH-LAMPASS. 
 
 All young animals, during the period of dentition, have 
 a fulness or swelling of the gums and bars, or roof of 
 the mouth. In many (Jolts it occasions but little or no 
 inconvenience, while in others the pain is so great as to 
 interfere with their feeding. When this condition exists, 
 do not resort to the barbarous practice of burning with a 
 red hot iron, but act humanely. Lance the bars with 
 your pocket knife, if you have nothing better, as your 
 family physician would lance the gums of your child un- 
 
202 THE HORSE OWXER's 
 
 der similar circumstances, and in a few days the animal 
 will feed as usual. 
 
 BAGS, OR WASHERS. 
 
 These are soft, puffy swellings of the lining membrane 
 of the mouth, caused by the bit bruising the parts in 
 reining. If inconvenient to the animal, they may be re- 
 moved by cutting oif a portion of the swollen parts with 
 a pair of scissors or a* knife, after which apply a little alum- 
 water, or equal parts of tincture of myrrh and water, to the 
 wound, two or three times a day. 
 
 SORE MOUTH. 
 
 This occurs from the same causes, and is situated usu- 
 ally at the angles of the mouth. Equal parts of tincture 
 of myrrh, tincture of aloes, and water, is the best applica- 
 tion we can make. 
 
 UNEVEN TEETH. 
 
 The molar teeth of the horse very frequently become 
 sharp and irregular, interfering with mastication to such 
 an extent as to cause the di<restive oro^ans to become im- 
 
 o o 
 
 paired, giving rise to an unhealthy condition of the system. 
 At times the insides of the cheeks become lacerated by 
 their sharp edges, causing them to become tumid and sore. 
 These cases can only be remedied by the use of the horse- 
 rasp, an instrument made for the purpose. 
 WOLF TEETH. 
 These are two small teeth which make their appearance 
 immediately in front of the upper molar teeth, in all colts 
 at some period from the first to the fifth year. It is sup- 
 posed by very many horsemen that they exert an evil in- 
 fluence over the eyes of the horse. My experience does 
 not prove the fact, and I cannot reconcile my mind to be- 
 lieve that they, natural teeth, should be placed in the 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 203 
 
 months of all colts, if they were injurious to the eyes or 
 any other organs of the body. If you wish them removed, 
 the best plan is to extract them with a pair of dentist's 
 forceps. In knocking them out, the roots are frequently 
 left behind, and of course your object is not accomplished. 
 CARIES OP THE TEETH. 
 
 Caries, or decay of the teeth of horses, is a disease of 
 frequent occurrence. The silence of veterinary writers 
 upon the subject has caused it to be overlooked by those 
 having the care of that useful animal, and the symptoms 
 in consequence, have been confounded with those of other 
 diseases. 
 
 Symptoms. — Occasionally we have a fetid breath, fetid 
 discharge from one nostril, a wheezing in the head, food 
 improperly masticated, passing away undigested, quid- 
 ding, drowsing, hide-bound, staring coat, tucked up belly, 
 tossing the head, stopping short on the road, shaking his 
 head and starting on again, and at times becoming almost 
 unmanageable. These symptoms do not all occur in the 
 same animal ; one appearing drowsy, requiring the whip to 
 urge him on, while another, at times, is wild and frantic 
 with pain, taking the bit, and becoming troublesome to 
 manage, occasionally running away. Some of those 
 symptoms occur in other diseases ; bat we should not over- 
 look the teeth in our examination when any of the above 
 symptoms appear. The only remedy is the extraction of 
 the diseased teeth. 
 
 DISTEMPER. 
 
 All catarrhal affections are classed under one general 
 head, namely, distemper, by horse owners generally; a 
 common cold, sore throat, influenza, bronchitis, and sever- 
 al others are regarded as distempers. We will endeav- 
 
204 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 or to make the distinction in such a manner that each 
 form of disease may be readily discovered, and the prop- 
 er remedies applied. Distemper, as we should under- 
 stand it, is the mildest form of catarrhal affections. A 
 common cold, for instance, is an inflammation of the lining 
 membrane of the nose, causing a secretion of mucus, which 
 is more or less abundently discharged from the nostrils, 
 in severe cases the inflammation extending down the trachea^ 
 or windpipe, to the bronchial tubes, and sometimes to the 
 lungs, producing diseases, which are classed under different 
 heads, and often requiring different treatment. 
 
 Treatment.— Oil of origanum, 1 ounce; oil cedar, 1 
 ounce; tincture cantharides, 1 ounce; olive oil, 4 ounces; 
 shake well and bathe the throat and glands morning and 
 evening for six days ; rub in well with the hand ; he will 
 throw out freely, and the cure is performed. 
 SORE THROAT. 
 
 This is usually one of the first indications of catarrh, 
 and when confined to that portion of the throat at the an- 
 gle of the jaws, it is termed laryngitis. The symptoms of 
 this disease are well marked : the head is stifif and if the 
 throat is rubbed or pressed upon, coughing is excited ; the 
 animal manifests difficulty in swallowing, and frequently 
 considerable salvia collects in the mouth. 
 
 Treatment. — Apply strong mustard made into a 
 paste with vinegar, to the throat, aud rub it well in ; or 
 linseed oil, two parts, witTi spirits of hartshorn, one part 
 will answer a good purpose. Give upon the tongue half a 
 teaspoonful of powdered saltpetre twice a day. 
 STRANGLES. 
 
 This is a more severe form of laryngitis, involving 
 the glands of the throat, causing a very great swelling, 
 
ILLUSTRATED GL^DE. 205 
 
 which often threatens suffocation ; the respiration becomes 
 clistmbed, the breathing h\b ;rious, and can be heard at 
 a considerable distance ; the animal sweats from his con- 
 vulsive efforts to breathe, and if not relieved, dies a vio- 
 lent death. Here the aid of the qualified veterinary sur- 
 geon is absolutely required, as there are few persons com- 
 petent to perform the operation of tracheotomy, that is 
 opening the windpipe to admit air into the lungs. This, 
 early performed, frequently saves the animal's life. 
 
 Treatment. — Poultice the throat well with flaxseed 
 meal, steam the nostrils two or three times a day, and as 
 soon as the swelling under the jaws becomes soft, it should 
 be lanced. When relief is once obtained, the further 
 treatment of these cases is the same as for ordinary sore 
 throat. 
 
 INFLUENZA. 
 
 Spring and fall are the seasons most productive of epi- 
 demic catarrh. Qne year it assumes a mild form, the next, 
 perhaps a most malignant one. Influenza is known to 
 horsemen under the common name of " pink-eye dis- 
 temper." 
 
 Symptoms. — These vary very considerably in different 
 ^animals. The usual or leading symptoms are ; Slight 
 watery or thin mucus discharges from the nose, eyelids 
 presenting a reddish or orange-red appearance, matter 
 collects in the corners of the eyes, pulse feeble, great de- 
 bility, as shown by the quick, feeble action of the heart — 
 a symptom rarely absent — membrane of nose much red- 
 dened, sore throat and cough ; occasionally the feet become 
 fevered, as in founder, causing much stiffness, which may 
 be easily mistaken for that disease. 
 
 Treatment. — This being a typhoid disease ; requires a 
 
206 
 
 sustaining treatment, or our success will be very doubtful. 
 In the early stage of the disease give the first two days, ten 
 drops of tincture of aconite, or bryonia, in a little water, 
 every six hours ; after which give in a pail of water, to 
 drink once a day, one ounce of spirits of nitre, or two 
 drachms of extract of belladonna ; and give in the feed, 
 three times a day, one of the following powders : Gentian 
 root, saltpetre and anise seed, of each one ounce — sulphate 
 of quinine, one drachm ; mix and divide into eight pow- 
 ders; or, powdered cinchonia and powdered quassia, of 
 each, two ounces, powdered anise seed, one ounce ; mix 
 and divide into four powders. The throat should be bathed 
 in mustard and vinegar, or with linseed oil three ounces, 
 spirits of hartshorn one ounce, wixed together. No hay 
 or corn should be given but scalded oats and wheat bran, 
 with linseed tea or oatmeal gruel, should constitute the 
 diet ; a few carrots would be very good, and above all, 
 good nursing is very desirable. 
 
 BRONCHITIS. 
 
 This is an inflammation of the bronchial tubes, as its 
 name implies, the air tubes of the lungs. It is usually 
 preceded by a shivering fit, the mouth is hot and full of 
 saliva, the throat is sore, and if pressed upon excites a 
 painful cough, discharge from the nose, appetite lost, pulse 
 quick, and respiration labored, eyelids and nostrils red- 
 dened ; on applying the ear to the side, a gurgling sound 
 is heard. 
 
 Treatment. Give the following ball in the early stage 
 of the disease : Nitrate of potassa, pulverized digitalis and 
 tartrate of antimony, of each half a drachm, molasses 
 sufficient to make the ball. If the fever is not broken in 
 
ILLUSTEATED GUIDE. 207 
 
 twelve hours, repeat the ball. As soon as the desired ob- 
 ject is obtained, give one of the following powders twice 
 a day, in a sloppy mass; Nitrate of potassa one and a 
 half ounces, nitrate of soda, six ounces, divide into six 
 powders ; or give the following : Extract of belladonna 
 one drachm, spirit, of nitre, one ounce, solution of acetate 
 of ammonia, four ounces, in half a pint of water, as a 
 drench. The throat and sides should be blistered ; the 
 ordinary fly blister, made thin with turpentine, is very 
 good, or mustard mixed wath equal parts of water and 
 spirits of hartshorn. Kither of the above, when used, 
 should be well rubbed in with the hand. 
 
 NASAL GLEET. 
 
 This is a chronic discharge, from one or both nostrils, 
 of '^ whitish muco-purulent matter, the result usually of 
 neglected catarrh. The general health of the animal does 
 not seem to suffer; he looks well, feeds well, and works 
 well ; yet we have this discharge, which is caused by weak- 
 ness in the secretory vessels of the lining membrane of the 
 nose. The successful treatment in all cases where this 
 disorder has existed, has been on the tonic principle ; 
 bleeding and purging are positively injurious. Give one 
 of the following powders night and morning; Sesqui- 
 chloride of iron, two ounces, powdered cinnamon one ounce, 
 mix and divide into four powders; or carbonate of iron' 
 pulverized gentian and pulverized quassia, of each one 
 ounce, divide into four powders ; or nux vomica pul- 
 verized, one-half ounce, linseed meal two ounces, divide 
 into eight powders. Another good preparation is muriate 
 of barytes one-half ounce, linseed meal one ounce, divide 
 into eight powders. 
 
208 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 PNEUMONIA. 
 
 This disease is known to horsemen as lung fever. It is 
 either inflammatory or congestive, arising from various 
 causes — as high feeding, badl}'' ventilated stables, violent 
 exercise, or sudden changes from heat to cold. In the 
 congestive stage there is no pulse to be found, and on ap- 
 plying the ear to the side, no sound is heard ; cold sweats 
 bedew the body, the- respiration is labored, eyes wild in 
 their expression, legs cold, the animal appears dull and 
 stupid, and is with difficulty made to move; he does not lie 
 down. In these cases medicines are not required; in fact, 
 they often do 'more injury than good; the free and speedy 
 use of the lancet is our only hope, and a pure air is of the 
 greatest importance; a pail of cold water should be placed 
 before the animal, but no food should be given until the 
 animal is relieved ; and then only mashes of wheat bran. 
 Under this treatment he will speedily recover, or inflam- 
 mation of the lungs will be established. The pulse now 
 becomes quick, the mouth hot, legs cold, head hanging in 
 or under the manger, appetite lost ; on applying the ear to 
 the side, a crepitating or crackling sound is heard; respira" 
 tion quick ; the treatment here must be prompt and ener- 
 getic ; blisters to the sides, such as previously spoken of, 
 must be used, and give internally two ounces of spirits of 
 nitre in half a pint of water; follow this in two hours with 
 ten drops of tincture of aconite in water, to be given every 
 six hours until relief is obtained; or give instead one of 
 the following powders; Tartrate of antimony, pulverized 
 digitalis, of each one drachm ; nitrate of potassa, one 
 ounce; mix and divide into eight powders; give one every 
 four hours upon the tongue. Injections of soap and water 
 are very useful in these cases. The legs should be hand- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 209 
 
 rubbed, and stiuinlated with mustard or cayenne pepper, 
 and then wrapped in woolen bandages ; a pure atmo.^phere 
 and good nursing are very necessary. 
 PLEUBISY. 
 
 This is an inflammation of the lining membrane of the 
 chest and covering of the lungs. Tlie symptoms are : 
 uneasiness, pawing, looking at the sides, pulse quick, pain 
 or pressure over the ribs, body hot, lying down but rising 
 quickly The same treatment as in inflammation of the 
 lungs is called for ; but under no circumstances should 
 bleeding be resorted to. These cases are very apt to ter- 
 minate in hydrothorax, or 
 
 DROPSY OF THE CHEST. 
 
 Symptoms — Breathing short and quick, legs stiaddling, 
 pulse small and quick ; breast, belly, and sheath swell, 
 and leave the mark of the finger when pressed upon ; the 
 animal stands until he dies. The treatment of this dis- 
 ease, as a general thing, is not very satisfactory. The io- 
 dide of potassa, in half-drachm doses, three times a day, 
 has proved the most useful medicine in such cases, in con- 
 nection with setons in the breast and sides. 
 
 BROKEN WIWD, OR HEAVES. 
 
 This disease is well known to horsemen ; so we will con- 
 tent ourselves merely by giving the most successful reme- 
 dies, which for the most part, are only palliative. Di- 
 vide half an ounce of pulverized digitalis in twenty parts, 
 and give one part night and morning in the feed, until 
 gone ; this will usually allay all signs of the disease in 
 two weeks. Or, take assafoetida, two drachms; camphor, 
 one drachm ; mix and give it every other night for a 
 week. 
 
210 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 INFLAMMATION" OF THE BOWELS. 
 
 This disease may appear suddenly or it may be slow i^ 
 coming on. The symptoms resemble those of colic, with 
 which disease it is often confounded. The pulse is our 
 certain guide in determining the character of the dis- 
 ease ; when that is full and natural, or nearly so there is 
 no inflammation ; if full, strong and quick, there is inflam- 
 mation ; other symptoms corresponding, there is no dif- 
 ficulty in determining the case. In colic, the symptoms 
 of pain are intermittent ; in inflammation of the bowels, 
 there are no intermissions. Other symptoms which are 
 present in both diseases are pawing, kicking the belly, roll- 
 ing and tumbling about, sweating, haggard expression of 
 countenance, looking at his §ides, etc.; in colic, the legs 
 usually are warm; in inflammation of bowels they are 
 cold. 
 
 Treatment. — Bleed freely from the neck-vein, and give 
 ten drops tincture of aconite every three hours ; apply 
 blankets saturated with hot water to the entire body, and 
 keep it up for two hours; then remove the wet ones and 
 replace them with dry ones, well-secured with a body 
 girth. Injections of tobacco smoke are very useful in 
 these cases, when not convenient, soap and water will ans- 
 wer the purpose. No food of any kind should be given 
 for at least foity-eight hours. 
 
 DIAKBHCEA. 
 
 The cause of this disease is exposure to cold, over exer- 
 tion, change of water, over-doses of cathartic medicine, etc. 
 
 Treatment. — Give one of the following powders every 
 six hours until the bowels are checked ; powdered opium, 
 one drachm ; powdered catechu, two drachms ; prepared 
 chalk, one ounce ; mix and divide into four powders. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 211 
 
 COLIC. 
 
 This disease — known also as gripes, cramp and fret — is 
 either spasmodic or flatulent. Spasmodic colic is a spas- 
 modic contraction of the muscular coats of the intestines, 
 causing griping pains, etc., (see inflammation of bowels.) 
 Flatulent colic is an accumulation of gas in the stomach 
 and intestines, generated by fermentation in the stomach, 
 causing swelling of the abdomen, and sometimes rupture 
 of the stomach. 
 
 Treatment. — For spasmodic colic, give one ounce tinc- 
 ture opium and one ounce of sulphuric ether in half a pint 
 of water ; this should be repeated in half an hour if relief 
 is not obtained. Or, give the following : tincture of 
 opium, one ounce; aromatic spirits of ammonia, half an 
 ounce ; extract of belladonna, one drachm ; water, one 
 pint; mix. In flatulent colic give chlorate of potash, 
 one-half ounce ; sulphuric ether, one-half ounce ; tincture 
 of aloes, three ounces ; water one pint ; mix and 
 drench. 
 
 WORMS. 
 
 Thousands of animals die annually from the ravages 
 of these pests, without the true cause being suspected; 
 especially is this the case in the young of the mare, cow 
 sheep and pig. Many varieties of these parasites belong 
 to our domestic animals which have not been mentioned 
 by veterinary writers; they are found in every tissue of 
 the body, even in the blood. The symptoms of worms 
 have been but very imperfectly described by writers 
 upon the subject. In an experience of many years, I have 
 observed the following symptoms, but not all in the same 
 animal. Each variety of worm has its characteristic 
 symptoms, namely : in bots, we rarely have loss of con- 
 
212 THE HORSE OWNEE's 
 
 dition, but when the hots become troublesome, colicky- 
 pains, gasping, quickened respiration, staring or hag- 
 gard expression of the eye, with a strong tendency to in- 
 flammation of the bowels will be observed. Bots are 
 rarely troublesome except when passing away in their 
 regular manner, which occurs from May to August 
 in each year. In most other varieties of worms the 
 symptoms are debility, feebleness, sluggish movements, 
 emaciation, staring coat, hide-bouud, and skin covered 
 with scurvy blotches, rigidity of loins, small and feeble 
 but slightly accelerated pulse, respiration slow, tucked-up 
 belly, a peculiar pallid appearance of the lining of the 
 lips, (a certain indication), irregular, capricious, but per- 
 sistent appetite, badly digested faeces, agitation of heart 
 and tail ; and where the fundament worms exist, a whitish 
 or yellowish-white substance will be found about the fun- 
 dament, indicated also by rubbing the tail. 
 
 The treatment for worms has been attended with much 
 uncertainty heretofore, and is to the present day, with 
 practitioners generally. Those on which most dependence 
 has been placed are ; calomel, one half drachm ; tartrate 
 of antimony, one half drachm ; linseed meal, one half 
 ounce; mix and give at night. Or, iron filings, two 
 drachms; common salt, one-half ounce; powdered savin, 
 one drachm ; linseed meal one-half ounce ; mix and give 
 every night for a week. Or, assafoetida, two drachm? ; 
 calomel, one and a half drachms; savin, one and a half 
 drachms ; oil male fern, thirty drops ; linseed meal, two 
 drachms ; mix with molasses and give at night. Or, cal- 
 omel, one drachm ; powdered wormwood, one ounce ; 
 honey sufficient to make the ball ; give at night. Follow 
 either of the above with the following ball : barbadoes 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 213 
 
 aloes one ounce ; pnlverized gentian, two clrachmR ; pnl- 
 verized ginger, one draclim ; water sufficient to make the 
 ball. Another remedy highly recommended is the follow- 
 ing. Barbadoes aloes, six drachms; male fern, iour ounces; 
 spirits turpentine, two ounces ; mix and divide into six 
 balls ; give one three times a day. 
 
 RETENTION OP UHINE. 
 
 This is known by frequent but unsuccessful efforts to stale. 
 In some animals it arises from a dislike to spatter their 
 legs in voiding the water ; hence a horse will frequently 
 retain it in the bladder until the litter is shaken up under 
 him, when he will at once relieve himself. When the re- 
 sult is spasm of the neck of the bladder, an instrument is 
 used called a catheter, made expressly for the purpose ; 
 this is passed up the urinary passage to the bladder, when 
 the water will flow freely and give instant relief. 
 PROFUSE STALING. 
 
 The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diu- 
 retic medicines, as saltpetre,^ rosin, etc. Unwholesome 
 food will sometimes produce it. Treatment : Give one of 
 the following balls every night — powdered opium, one- 
 half ounce ; powdered kino, one ounce ; prepared chalk, 
 one ounce ; mix with molasses and make six balls. 
 STONES IN THE BLADDER. 
 
 These may exist a long time in the bladder before any 
 symptoms arise indicating their presence. The first symp- 
 toms of stone are, frequent efforts to urinate, voiding 
 small quantities, usually of a thick whitish color; as the 
 stones increase in size, the symptoms become more ag. 
 gvavated, colicky pains are indicated, rendering it diffi- 
 cult to distinguish the difference ; the animal paws, kicks 
 at his belly, lies down, rolls, and gets up quickly. In 
 
214 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 some cases, these obstructions are dissolved by the admin- 
 istration of muriatic acid, two drachms, in a pail of water 
 once a day. When this fails, an operation for the remov- 
 al of the stone is the only remedy. This is not, compara- 
 tively, a dangerous operation, in the hands of a skillful 
 surgeon. 
 
 QUITTER. 
 
 This is a formation' of pus between the hoof aud the 
 soft structures within ; a sore at the coronet or upper 
 part of the foot, which at first is a hard, smooth tumor, 
 but soon becomes soft, and breaks, discharging quantities 
 of pus. Treatment : poultice the foot for several days with 
 flax-seed meal. As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut 
 away all loose portions, but no more, and inject with a 
 syringe, either of the following, once a day : Chloride of 
 zinc, 2 dr., dissolved in one pint of water ; or sulphate of 
 zinc, 1^ dr., dissolved in one pint of water; or nitrate of 
 silver, 2 dr., in a pint of water; or glycerine may be used 
 with advantage. Before using the wash have the foot 
 well cleaned with castile soap and water. 
 THRUSH. 
 
 This is a disease of the frog, causing a discharge of 
 matter from its cleft or division, occasionally causing 
 lameness. The treatment is simple and effective : Wash 
 the feet well with soap and water, and sprinkle a small 
 quantity of pulverized sulphate of copper in the cleft, and 
 secure it by pressing a little raw cotton down upon it in 
 such a manner as to keep out the dirt. In two or three 
 days repeat, if necessary. It rarely requires a second 
 dressing. 
 
 CANKER. 
 
 Tbis is a more aggravated form of thrush, often prov- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 215 
 
 ing very troublesome to manage. It is a continuation of 
 the thrush between the horny tVog and the internal struc- 
 tures of the foot, causing separation between them. 
 Treatment : cut away all the horn which has been sepa- 
 rated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply the 
 following ointment: Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, 
 melt over a slow fire, and add suphuric acid very slowly 
 until ebullition ceases ; or use collodion, half an ounce ; 
 castor oil, one ounce ; mix and apply to the parts. The 
 foot must be protected from dirt by a bandage or a leath- 
 ern boot. 
 
 SCRATCHES. 
 This disease is well known to all horsemen. Treatment : 
 Wash the parts well with castile soap and water, and 
 when dry apply once a day the collodion and castor oil 
 recommended in canker ; or use a saturated solution of 
 the bichloride of mercury once a week, but not oftener, 
 or mischief may arise in consequence of a too free use. 
 
 GREASE HEELS. 
 
 This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge from the 
 heels of the horse. The skin becomes hot, tender and 
 swollen ; the acrid character of the discharge often caus- 
 es large portions of the skin to slough away, leaving an 
 ugly sore behind. Treatment : open the bowels with the 
 following ball: Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz.; pulverized gentian 
 root, 2 dr.; pulverized ginger, 1 dr.; water sufficient to 
 make the ball. Wash. the parts well, and poultice for 
 two or three days with the following : Flax seed meal 
 mixed with a solution of 2 dr. sulphate of zinc to a pint 
 of water, after which keep clean and bathe frequently 
 with glycerine, or the solution of zinc, or a solution of the 
 chloride of lime may be used ; or the bichloride of mercu- 
 
216 THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 ry may be used in inveterate cases with good results, pro- 
 vided it be not repeated oftener than once a week. 
 WATEH FARCY. 
 
 Anasarca, as it is technically called, is of two kinds ; 
 one occurring in young animals, from inflammatory action, 
 the other in old horses from general debility. It is known 
 by swelling of the legs, belly, sheath, and other parts. In 
 young animals there is- heat, and pain on pressure on the 
 swollen parts ; in old horses there is no pain on pressure, 
 but the marks of the finger are left behind. 
 
 Treatment. — Give one of the following powders night 
 and morning in the feed : Sulphate of iron, 2 oz.; nitrate 
 of potassa, 1 oz.; pulverized gentian, 1 oz.; pulverized gin- 
 ger, 6 drs.; anise seed, ground, ^ oz.; mix and divide into 
 eight powders ; or sulp'iate of copper; nitrate of potassa, 
 and pulverized gentian, of each one ounce; pulverized 
 ginger, ^ oz.; anise seed, ground, 5 drs.; mix and divide 
 into eight powders. Hand rubbing and moderate exercise 
 every day are very important, with a pure atmosphere in 
 your stable. 
 
 FOUNDER. 
 
 This disease occurs generally in the horse with hard 
 brittle, or, contracted hoofs, in consequence of their inabil- 
 ity to yield to the weight of the animal. In this con- 
 dition they wait for the exciting or immediate cause to 
 develop the disease. These causes are a hard drive upon 
 n hard road, watering when warm, particularly when 
 jjump or spring water is used, standing in a draught of 
 air, etc. 
 
 Symptoms. — Fore feet thrown forward, resting upon the 
 heels ; weight of the body thrown back upon the hind 
 legs ; front feet hot and tender, pulse full and quick ; 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 217 
 
 respiration accelarated ; the animal in very severe cases 
 seeks relief by lying down. 
 
 Treatment. — If the animal is in full condition, bleed 
 freely from the feet, and give the following : Barbadoes 
 aloes, G drs,; croton oil, 6 drops ; pulverized ginger, 1 dr.; 
 pulverixed gentian, 2 drs.; mix with water in form of a 
 ball ; foment the feet well with hot water, and then poul- 
 tice with flaxseed meal for several days ; give in the water, 
 every six hours, extract of belladonna, 1 dr. Under this 
 treatment the worst cases usually recover in one week's 
 time if taken in hand early. 
 
 PQMIOSD FEET. 
 
 This disease is known to horsemen as falling of the sole, 
 and is the result of neglected founder. Careful shoeing, 
 so as to protect the sole, is all that can be done in these 
 cases. 
 
 WAVICULAR-JOINT LAMISTESS. 
 
 Coffin joint lameness, as it is commonly called, is one 
 of very common occurrence, and the symptoms often so 
 obscure as to mislead the ordinary observer. This dis- 
 ease generally is preceded for months before lameness is 
 observed, by pointing; that is, by advancing one foot 
 whenever the animal is at rest. The degrees of lameness 
 varies considerably in different animals. In one case it 
 is seen in the first half-mile's travel only ; in others it con- 
 tinues for a mile or two, and then disappears ; in some it 
 continues during a journey, but as the animal gets warmed 
 up, it is not so severe as on the start. In some cases it 
 disappears for weeks together ; and then shows itself again, 
 gradually increasing in intensity until it becomes a per- 
 manent lameness. In the early stages of the disease there 
 is no heat to be discovered about the foot, no swelling, no 
 
218 THE HORSE OWNER'S 
 
 pain on pressing the heels; the animal picks up the foot 
 nicely, but drops it tenderly, striking the toe first ; the 
 shoe, therefore, is worn considerably at the toe and very 
 little at the heels. Should a horse be slightly lame in 
 both feet, the symptoms are still more obscure and diffi- 
 cult to diagnose. The action of the horse now becomes 
 changed ; he no longer bends his knees with the same free- 
 dom as before; he steps short, the heels scarcely touching 
 the ground, which is a good indication of the disease. 
 
 Treatment. — In recent cases, the application of a prop- 
 er blister is usually successful ; the common fly blister, 
 thinned with spirits of turpentine, answers a very good 
 purpose ; or the following which must be used with great 
 caution to prevent its leaving a blemish behind; pow- 
 dered cantharides, two drachms, oil of turpentine two 
 drachms, powdered euphorbium, one drachm, oil of origa- 
 num, one drachm, hog's lard, two ounces. Mix all togeth- 
 er. This should not be repeated after the blister acts. In 
 cases of long standing, a seton put through the frog will 
 often be of great service in restoring the animal to use- 
 fulness. 
 OSSIFICATION OF THE LATERAL CARTILAGES. 
 
 These cartilages are two grizly projections or wings at- 
 tached to the coffin bone at the heels, and may readily be 
 felt above the hoof From contraction, corns and other 
 causes, these elastic bodies often become changed from 
 gristle to bone in consequence of inflammation, leaving the 
 horse with thick heels and a short, tender tread in trav- 
 eling. The treatment in these cases is only palliative in 
 its confirmed state ; the same treatment as for navicular- 
 joint lameness is proper. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 2l9 
 
 SHOULDER STRAIN". 
 
 This arises from slipping, severe blows," falling in the 
 shafts, etc. The symptoms are all well marked. The an-- 
 imal, instead Jof raising the foot, drags the toe on the 
 ground in walking; on making a lever of the leg, by bring- 
 ing it forward, the animal manifests much pain; these usu- 
 ally are positive symptoms. 
 
 Treatment. — Bleed freely from the Plantar vein, run- 
 ning down upon the inside of the front legs. Foment the 
 shoulders well with hot water if the case is a recent one. 
 If of long standing, a seton will be more effective. The 
 following liniment will be a useful application; Sweet oil, 
 one pint, spirits of hartshorn, three ounces, spirits of tur- 
 pentine, two ounces, mix all together ; shake well before 
 using. Or, alcohol, one pint, spirits of camphor, tincture 
 of myrrh, castile soap, of each one ounce; mix all together; 
 or, oil of turpentine one ounce, tincture of opium one 
 ounce, soap liniment, one ounce, tincture of capsicum one 
 drachm ; mix all together. 
 
 CAPPED HOCK. 
 
 This is a bruise of the cap or point of the hock joint 
 forming a serious abscess. 
 
 Treatment. — Apply the blister recommended in coffin 
 joint lameness. Tincture of iodine or iodine ointment is 
 sometimes useful. 
 
 BONE SPAVIN. 
 
 This is one of the most common causes of lameness in 
 the hind legs. Spavin arises j, from strains, sprains or 
 blows upon the hock joint, causing an inflammatory con- 
 dition of the cartilaginous cushions which cover the unit- 
 ing surfaces of each bone or of the ligaments that sur- 
 round the joint and bind the bones together ; sometimes 
 
220 -THE HORSE OWNEr's 
 
 both are involved. This inflammatory condition of the 
 joint may be considered the exciting canse of spavin, and, 
 if not speeddy removed, spavin soon follows ; the synovi- 
 al fluid, commonly called juirtt-oil, is soon absorbed, the 
 cartilages of the joint are turned to bone, which unite one 
 with the other, forming one solid mass, destroying the 
 mobility of the parts involved, and constituting what is 
 technically called anchylosis of the hock joint. This union 
 of the bones is not always general, there being in many 
 cases but two, three, or four of the bones involved. When 
 these changes are confined to the cartilages, there is no 
 external enlargement ; on the contrary, when the liga- 
 ments surrounding the joint are involved, we have in all 
 cases external enlargement. When the hock receives au 
 injury, the course of treatment usually pursued by horse- 
 men is very pernicious. The application of a blister to 
 an inflamed surface must do injury by increasing the in- 
 flammation they wish to abate, and in many cases actu- 
 ally producing a spavin where it otherwise would not 
 exist. I do nat deny that blisters are necessary and use- 
 ful in such cases, if properly applied; but the idea of rub- 
 bing blisters on an inflamed surface, to reduce it, is like 
 throwing shavings on burning coals to extinguish them. 
 The educated physician, in applying a blister, does it so 
 as to draw the inflammation from the part affected to a 
 part where it will do no injury ; otherwise, it had better 
 not be applied at all. When the disease has advanced 
 so far as to produce alteration of structure in the part, 
 the application of blisters is proper, not for the purpose 
 of curing the disease, but with a view of removing the 
 lameness, by increasing the inflammation, thereby caus- 
 ing a more speedy union of the diseased bones, which 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 221 
 
 when perfect, causes the animal to travel sound. The se- 
 ton I have found the most successful in long-standing 
 cases. In the early stages, that is, before any alteration 
 of structure takes place, the application of cold water to 
 the parts will often abate the inflammation, or a blister 
 applied above or below the hock will have the desired ef- 
 fect. Cooling embrocations, such as vinegar and water, 
 are also good. When there is external enlargement, ac- 
 tive blisters should be applied over the part. Liquid 
 blister : powdered cvottn seed, ^ oz., powdered cantharides, 
 1 oz., oil of turpentine, 1 pt,, olive oil, 1 pt.; mix all to- 
 gether and shake well before using. 
 
 EIWG-BONS. 
 
 This is a disease precisely like spavin, location only 
 giving it a different name. The same alterations in struc- 
 ture take place, the same termintions follow, and the 
 same treatment is called for. Ring-bone, unlike spavin, 
 rarely occurs without enlargement. I have never known 
 of but one case of the kind. 
 
 SPLINT. 
 
 This is a bony deposit situated between the cannon and 
 splint bones, well known to all horsemen, rarely causing 
 lameness, except when it is situated so as to interfere with 
 the action of the knee-joint, or at the lower extremity of 
 the splint bone. Few horses attain the age of eight years 
 without having them ; they disappear in time by spread- 
 ing over a greater surface of bone, becoming flat xypon the 
 surface, giving rise to the opinion often indulged in by 
 horsomen that old horses never have splint. .Splint is a 
 disease of the same character as spavin, and requires the 
 same treatment. 
 
222 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 CURB. 
 
 This is an enlarjyeraent at the back part of the hock 
 about four inches below the cap, arising from strains, 
 bruises, breaking down of the hock, etc. 
 
 Take benoidide of mercury three drachms, lard two 
 ounces, mix it well ; clip the hair close, just the size of 
 the enlargement, rub the ointment on with the finger In 
 three or four days the matter which oozes from the en- 
 largement will form a thick scab; soften with fresh lard 
 and pick it off; rub dry with the hand, and apply as 
 above. Five or six applications will remove any curb. 
 For splints apply in the same manner. 
 
 BLOOD OR BOG-SPAVIN. 
 
 This is but one disease, a bursal enlargement or an in- 
 crease in the secretion of the joint-oil causing distention 
 of the capsular ligament which surrounds the joint, caus- 
 ing, puffy swellings on the front and inside of tlie joint* 
 rarely causing lameness. Thorough pin is the same disease 
 on a more extensive scale, causing the enlargement 
 to extend through the joint from one side to the other. 
 The only successful treatment which I have found, with a 
 few exceptions, is cold water compresses, placed upon 
 the joint in such a manner as to press upon the swollen 
 parts, and retain them there for six or eight weeks, by 
 means of a leathern socket made to fit the joint ; the com- 
 presses to be changed every day ; old muslin or wooleu 
 cloth is the best material to use. 
 
 PALPITATION OF THE HEART 
 
 This disease is known to the horsemen as the thumps, 
 in consequence of the violent action of the heart, causing 
 a jerking or shaking of the entire animal frame, observa- 
 ble at a distance of several yards. This disease is some* 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 223 
 
 times preceded by an obscure lameness, generally occur- 
 ring in the off fore-leg, which, in medical language, is 
 termed sympathetic. 
 
 Treatment. — The worst cases yield in two hours to 
 the following simple treatment : Divide 1 dr. of digitalis 
 into 5 powders, and give one every fifteen minutes, on the 
 tongue. 
 
 INFLAMMATION" OF THE BRAIN. 
 
 Mad staggers, as this disease is called, arises from va- 
 rious causes. Blows over the head will produce it, over- 
 feeding, a tight collar, powerful stimulants, etc. Symp- 
 toms : the animal at first is dull, and moves with appar- 
 ent reluctance ; the membranes dividing the eye-lids and 
 nose are much reddened, pulse full and quick, appetite 
 lost, a vacant stare about the eyes, ending in delirium or 
 madness. Every thing around the animal is destroyed 
 or injured ; he continues his ravings until exhausted. 
 
 Treatment. — Open the jugular vein as quickly as 
 possible ; this should be done before the mad stage comes 
 on or it is too late to be of much service. Open the bow- 
 els freely ; give the following : Barbadoes aloes 1 oz., cro- 
 ton oil, 10 drops, ginger, 1 dram., gentian, 1 dr., mix with 
 molasses or honey. Give tobacco smoke injections if con- 
 venient, or soap and water will answer the purpose ; 
 give on the tongue, every two hours, 10 drops tincture of 
 aconite, until 8 doses have been given, and then stop the 
 aconite ; give cold w^ater to drink and apply cold-water 
 bandages to the head, or bags of ice would be better ; 
 give no food for twelve hours after relief is obtained. 
 STOMACH STAGGERS. 
 
 This disease occurs in horses that are great feeders ; in 
 consequence the stomach becooies enormously distended. 
 
224 THE HORSE OWNER's • 
 
 causing pressure upon the lungs and heart, interfering with 
 the action of both, and causing a determination of blood to 
 the head, producing stupor, with a tendency to pitch for- 
 ward, resting the head against a tree or any object which 
 may be in his way ; the head often becomes bruised and 
 cut by coming in contact with hard and rough objects ; 
 the bowels are constipated, the pulse full and slow, res- 
 piration disturbed, etc. 
 
 Treatment. — Give the purging ball recommended in 
 inflammation of the brain, and bleed freely from the jugu- 
 lar vein ; give no food for forty-eight hours. This is all 
 the treatment the animal requires. As soon as the bowels 
 are opened the animal is relieved. Care should be used 
 after recovery not to allow the animal too much proven- 
 der, and keep the bowels in good order, as a preventive of 
 subsequent attacks. 
 
 POLL-EVIL. 
 
 This disease is said to arise from blows upon the head 
 behind the ears, in going in or out of stables with low 
 doors, pulling upon the halter, etc. Such injuries in ani- 
 mals whose blood is in a bad condition will cause poll-evil ; 
 but it cannot live in a healthy system. The author's ex- 
 perience convinces him that the disease oftener arises from 
 hereditary causes than from any other, having met with, 
 on several occasions, two or three unbroken colts, from the 
 same mare, affected with this disease, proving beyond a 
 doubt the ready transmission of the disease from parent 
 to offspring. 
 
 Treatment. — The blood must be thoroughly purified 
 before a cure can be effected. Give the following powder ; 
 pulverized sulphur, one pound; black antimony in pow- 
 der, one-half pouad ; mix together ; dose, one table-spoon- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 225 
 
 ful morning and night, in the feed. No corn nor corn-meal 
 should be given. Open the bowels with aloes or linseed 
 oil. Lay the tumor open with a knife, and inject into the 
 opening a solution of sulphate of zinc, two drachms to a 
 pint of water; or the tincture of iodine is very good; sul- 
 phuric acid is used in "some cases, but it is a dangerous 
 remedy. 
 
 FISTULA OF THE WITHERS. 
 
 This disease is situated on the withers, or the raised line 
 of the back, over the shoulders, and is precisely the same 
 disease as poll-evil, location only giving it a different name. 
 It is more common than poll-evil, as ten to one, arising 
 from the same causes, and requiring the same treatment ; 
 it yields, however, more readily than the former disease. 
 GLANDERS. 
 
 This loathsome disease has defied medical treatment in 
 all ages of the world. It is one of the most treacherous 
 diseases known to man, being highly contagious, and com- 
 municated readily from horse to horse and from horse to 
 man by means of inoculation. Hence the best treatment is 
 a leaden ball through the brain. Symptoms: a discharge 
 of matter from one or both nostrils, enlargement of one or 
 both glands under the jaw ; when one nostril only is 
 affected, the gland on the same side is almost invariably 
 enlarged, the membrane lining the nose is pale or leaden in 
 color, with ulcerations upon it. The discharge usually sticks 
 to the nostrils like glue, and is sometimes white, but oftener 
 grayish in color. These latter symptoms appear in other 
 diseases of a catarrhal character from an acrid discharge 
 from the nose. Glanders fully developed, is not easily con- 
 founded with other diseases, as the discharge becomes more 
 glutinous, and adheres to the edges of the nostrils more 
 
226 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 firmly, with increased tenderness of the swellings under the 
 jaw, which now adheres closely to the jaw-bone ; the dis- 
 charge is somewhat streaked with blood, and of an offensive 
 smell : there is a slight tumefaction of the under eye-lid, 
 a swelling or elevation of the bones of the nose or fore- 
 head, loss of appetite, debility, sometimes cough, swelling 
 of the legs and sheath, and sometimes lameness without 
 any apparent cause, chancres or ulcerations within the nos- 
 trils. When these symptoms appear, the disease soon pro- 
 ceeds to a fatal termination. Since the commencement of 
 the rebellion many experiments have been made with a 
 view to discovering a cure for the disease, and with some 
 prospect of success. The sulphate of soda, in ounce doses, 
 three times a day, has been attended with partial success, 
 and many cures are claimed through the agency of this 
 simple remedy. 
 
 FARCY. 
 This disease I regard as an incipient stage of glanders, 
 or as a type of the same fatal malady, and it is, to a certain 
 extent, curable. There are two distinct varieties or stages 
 of farcy : one, which is called button farcy, is altogether 
 superficial, being confined to the lympliatic vessels of the 
 skin, and readily yields to medical treatment ; the other 
 variety makes its appearance in the extremities, generally 
 upon the inside of the hind legs, which become completely 
 engorged, presenting a very uneven and lumpy appearance, 
 excessively tender and painful to the touch. Small absces- 
 ses are formed, which at first discharge healthy pus, but 
 soon ulcerate and discharge a thin, sanious matter. These 
 abscesses first make their appearance on the inside of the 
 hind legs, and then on the fore ones in like manner; the 
 neck and lips come next in turn, and they may appear in 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 227 
 
 all parts of the body, when glanders will begin to mani- 
 fest itself. 
 
 Treatment. — Give 1 oz. of the sulphate of soda three 
 times a day ; or corrosive sublimate, in 10-grain doses, 
 twice a day ; or nux vomica, in ^-drachm doses, twice a 
 day. Sulphate of copper, in 2-drachm doses, has been 
 used with decided advantao;e. The tumors should be 
 opened and caustic silver or red-hot iron applied to each. 
 MANGE 
 
 This is a disease of the skin, identical with itch in the 
 human family. The hair comes off in spots, which gradu- 
 ally blend together, causing scabby patches : the skin 
 thickens and puckers along the neck. 
 
 Treatment. — Take the horse in the sun and scrub him 
 thoroughly all over with castile soap and water ; then wash 
 him well from head to tail with gas-water, in which put two 
 drachms white hellebore to the gallon. He must now be 
 put into another stall distant from the one in which he has 
 been standing. Thus treated it rarely requires more than 
 one washing to effect a permanent cure. The harness 
 should be thoroughly scrubbed and put away for six or 
 eight weeks. These precautions are necessary to 'success 
 in this otherwise troublesome disease. 
 SURFEIT. 
 
 This is a scurfy eruption all over the body, arising from 
 an impure condition of the blood, causing plethora in one 
 animal, and general debility, etc., in another. The legs 
 swell, the hair is rough and staring, the membrane lining 
 in the nose presents a bluish cast. 
 
 Give the following: Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz. ; nitrate of 
 potassa, 2 drs. ; gentian, 1 dr.; make into a ball with 
 water ; follow this with the following powder : nitrate of 
 
228 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 potash, 2 oz. : pnlverized sulphur, 6 oz. ; black antimony 
 2 oz. ; mix and divide into 16 powders; give one morning 
 and night. 
 
 HIDE-BOUND. 
 
 Any derangement of the system has a tendency to pro- 
 duce this condition in the skin. Medicines of an altera- 
 tive character are here indicated ; the most successful 
 are: suljdiur, pulverized, eight ounces ; nitrate of potassa, 
 pulverized, three ounces ; black antimony, pulverized, two 
 ounces; sulphate of iron, four ounces; mix all together, 
 and give one tablespoon ful, twice a day Or, Barbadoes 
 aloes two ounces, nitre one ounce, gentian one ounce; mix 
 and divide into sixteen powders, one to be given at night 
 and one in the morning. 
 
 liOCKED-JAW. 
 
 This is one of the most tronblesome and uncertain dis- 
 eases with which the veterinary surgeon has to combat ; 
 it is technically call tetanus. It arises generally from 
 nail wounds in the feet, sharp, metallic substances taken 
 into and wounding the stomach, or stones in the stomach or 
 intestines; hots are said occasionally to be the cause of 
 locked-jaw, etc., etc. The first symptoms of the disease are 
 observed about the ninth or tenth day after the injury is 
 done, which are a straggling or stiffness of the hind legs, 
 to which succeeds, in a few days, the follow'ing : on elevat- 
 ing the head, a spasmodic motion of the membrane in the 
 inner corner of the eye will be observed, showing little more 
 than the white of the eye, the muscles of the jaws become 
 rigid, the tongue is swollen and the mouth is filled with 
 saliva, the ears are erect, the nose pohed out, the nostrils 
 expand, the respiration becomes disturbed, and finally the 
 jaws become firmly set, and the bowels are constipated. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 229 
 
 Treatment. — That which I have found most successful 
 is the early administration of the following: tincture of 
 aconite, two drachms, tincture of belladonna, two drachms, 
 water, one half ounce ; mix and give forty drops, every 
 four hours, on the tongue. Keep a ball of aloes in the 
 mouth for several days; there is no fear of giving too 
 much ; I have iVequently given half a pound in the course 
 of a few days, with good results. Hydrocyanic acid, 
 twenty drops, in a little water, and put upon the tongue 
 every four hours, is an excellent remedy. Foment the 
 jaws with bags of hops steeped in hot water, and bathe 
 the line of the back from the pole to the croup with mus- 
 tard and vinegar; be careful not to allow the animal to 
 be unnecessarily excited by noises and bustle about him, 
 but go about him very quietly ; keep a pail of bran slop be- 
 fore him all the time. If the foot has been injured, poul- 
 tice with flaxseed meal, and keep the wound open until 
 healthy action has been established. 
 
 RHEUMATISM. 
 
 This a common disease in some localities, as it is in 
 the human family ; the animal appears stiff and sore, the 
 lameness shifting from one limb to another, the joints 
 sometimes become swollen and painful to the touch, the an- 
 imal appearing better or worse, according to the season of 
 the year and the condition of the atmosphere. 
 
 Treatment. — Open the bowels with the following : cal- 
 omel one drachm, Barbadoes aloes, four drachms, alcohol 
 two drachms, linseed meal two drachms, molasses enough 
 to make into a ball; follow tliis with pine tar, one-half 
 ounce, made into a ball with flax-seed meal ; give one ev- 
 ery morning. Poultice the feet with flaxseed meal four 
 parts, ground mustard, one part, for several days, and 
 
230 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 bathe tlie affected limbs with the following liQiment; oil 
 of turpentine, tincture of opium, soap liniment, of each one 
 ounce, tincture of capsicum, one drachm; mix all together; 
 shake well before using. 
 
 CRAMP. ' 
 
 This disease baffles the judgment of the most ex{)erienced 
 horsemen, often creating unnecessary alarm from the pe- 
 culiar manner in which the animal is handled. 
 
 Symptoms. — The horse appears well in body and limb, 
 until efforts are made to move him ; he then appears to 
 have lost all power of motion in one of his legs, usually 
 the hind ones ; it is firmly planted on the ground, and the 
 most powerful man fails to move it. On compelling the 
 animal to move, the leg drags behind as though it were 
 dislocated. Upon striking him with the whip he frequent- 
 ly will take two or three natural steps, and the leg drags 
 as before: 
 
 Treatment. — Hand rubbing is very necessary, and use 
 the following liniment upon the affected part ; alcohol, one 
 pint; tincture of camphor, one half pint; tinture of opi- 
 um four ounces ; mix all together. 
 WARTS. 
 
 When the warts have necks, all that is necessary for 
 their removal is a piece of silk tied tightly around them 
 as closely to the roots as possible ; in a few days they will 
 slough away ; or if they are larger at their base, pass a 
 needle armed with a double thread through the wart as 
 near the root as possible, and tie each way so as to cut 
 off the circulation of the blood, and it will soon die and 
 come away ; or paint it over with the permanganate of 
 potash once a day for a week ; or use the caustic potash 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 231 
 
 i n tlie same manner ; either of these remedies usually an- 
 swers the purpose. 
 
 SADDLE-GALLS. 
 
 These are too well known to horsemen to require any 
 gpecial remarks regarding their cause, etc. 
 
 Treatment. — Bathe the parts two or three times a day 
 with equal parts of tincture of myrrh and tincture of aloes ; 
 or, collodion, one ounce; castor oil, two ounces; mixed 
 together; or, glycerine is a very good remedy. 
 
 DISEASES OP THE EYE.— AMAUROSIS, OR GUT- 
 TA SERENA, 
 
 Commonly called glass eye. In this disease the eyes have 
 a peculiar glassy appearance, with an enlarged or expand- 
 ed pnpil. The eyes are clear and show no indications of 
 disease to the ordinary observer, yet the animal is par- 
 tially or wholly blind. The cause is paralysis of the op- 
 tic nerve, the best means of detecting which is to expose 
 the eye to different degrees of light, which, when disease 
 exists, makes no impression on the pupil whatever ; while 
 in a sound eye the pupil contracts when exposed to a 
 strong light, and expands when removed to a weaker 
 light, or when removed to a dark place. An animal af- 
 fected with amaurosis will run against any object in his 
 way, and present all other symptoms of a horse blind from 
 any other cause. 
 
 Treatment. — Give a strong purge ; follow this twice a 
 day with half-drachm doses of nux vomica, mixed in the 
 feed : apply a fly blister back of the eye, and give bran 
 mashes for a few days. No corn should be used until the 
 sight is restored. 
 
232 THE HORSE OWNEK's 
 
 lE-FLAMMATION OP THE HAW, 
 
 As it is commonly called, also known as the Hooks. This 
 is a swelling from inflammation of the membrane in the 
 inner corner of the eye, called the membrana nictitans; its 
 office or functiori' is to cleanse the eye of dirt or other sub- 
 stances getting into it. 
 
 Treatment. — This is simple and effective ; open the 
 bowels with the aloes ball recommended in rheumatism, 
 and apply the following wash : tincture of opium one 
 ounce ; rain water, one pint ; mix together and bathe the 
 eye three or four times a day. Do not be persuaded to 
 cut out this membrane of the eye, as its removal does in- 
 jury by impairing its functions. 
 
 SIMPLE OPHTHALMIA. 
 
 This disease arises from some external injury, as a blow 
 upon the eye, or from a foreign body getting into it, caus- 
 ing inflammation to ensue ; the eye becomes swollen, very 
 sensitive and watery. 
 
 Treatment. — Open the vein under the eye, and let it 
 bleed until it stops of itself. Open the bowels, and use 
 the following wash : tincture of opium, six drachms ; tinct- 
 ure of aconite, two drachms ; rain-water, one pint ; mix 
 all together, and bathe the eye three times a day ; or, use 
 belladonna, one ounce, rain-water, one pint ; mix, and 
 bathe the same. 
 
 SPECIFIC OPHTHALMIA. 
 
 This is called by horsemen, moon-blindness, from its 
 periodical appearance ; supposed by some persons to be 
 governed by the moon. 'J'he eyes in this disease become 
 watery, and a white film covers the entire ball of the eye. 
 When this disease once appears, we may look for its ter- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 233 
 
 mination in blindness. The eyes may be cleared np a few 
 times, but eventually the animal goes blind. 
 
 Treatment — 0[)cn the bowels freely with the aloes 
 ball, and give internally one of the following powders in 
 the feed, night and morning : colchicum root, pulverized, 
 one ounce ; linseed meal, two ounces ; mix and divide into 
 twenty powders. Bathe the eye with the following : bella- 
 donna, one ounce ; rain-water, one pint ; or, nitrate of sil- 
 ver, eight grains; distilled water, four ounces, mix; or, 
 sulphate of zinc, one-half drachm ; diacetate of lead, one 
 drachm ; water, one and a half pints ; or, take a piece of 
 sulphate of coppier (blue stone), shave it thin and smooth, 
 and pass it carefully between the eyelid and the eyeball 
 twice a day until the eye is cleared up. 
 
 CATARACT. 
 
 This disease is usually the] result of termination of spe- 
 cific ophthalmia, causing an opacity or breaking up of the 
 crystalline lens, situated directly behind the pupil, pre- 
 senting a white and cloudy appearance in the centre of the 
 eye, and causing^partial or total blindness. Little can be 
 done by way of treatment in this disease as it occurs in 
 the horse. 
 
234 THE HORSE OW^'ER's 
 
 BECAPTULATION OF REMEDIES. 
 
 Lampass. — Lancing. 
 
 Bags OR Washers. — Cutting, and apply alum water or 
 tincture myrrh and water, equal parts. 
 
 Sore Mouth. — Tinctures myrrh, aloes and water equal 
 parts. 
 
 Uneven Teeth. — Filing. 
 
 Wolf-Teeth. — Extracting with dentist's forceps. 
 
 Caries or Diseased Teeth should be extracted. 
 
 Sore Throat. — Mustard paste with vinegar, or linseed 
 oil, two parts, ammonia one part, applied outwardly. Pow- 
 dered saltpetre, half-tea-spoonful, upon tongue, twice a day. 
 
 Strangles. — Flax seed poultice, steam nostrils, and 
 lancing. Veterinary surgeon if possible. 
 
 Influenza. — Tincture of aconite or bryonia, ten drops 
 in water every six hours for two days, then spirits nitre 1 
 oz., extract belladonna, 2 dr., in a pail of water once a day. 
 A powder of gentian root, salt-petre and anise-seed each 1 
 oz., sulphate of quinine, 1 dr.; mix and divide into eight 
 powders ; give three times a day in feed ; or powdered 
 cinchona and powdered quassia, each 2 oz., powdered anise- 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 235 
 
 seed, 1 oz.; mix and divide into four powders, and give 
 three times a day in feed. Bathe throat in mustard and 
 vinegar, or with linseed oil, 3 oz. and ammonia, 1 oz., mixed. 
 
 Bronchitis. — A ball of nitrate of potassa, pulverized 
 digitalis, and tartrate of antimony, each ^ dr., molasses 
 sufficient to make the ball, once in twelve hours till fever 
 is broken ; then nitrate of potassa 1| oz., nitrate of soda 6 
 oz.; mix and divide into six powders ; twice a day in mash; 
 or extract belladonna, 1 dr., spirits nitre, 1 oz., solution of 
 acetate of ammonia, 4 oz., in half pint of water as a drench. 
 Blister throat and sides with fly-blister and turpentine, or 
 mustard, ammonia and water. Rub in with the hand. 
 
 Nasal Gleet. — Give night and morning one of the fol- 
 lowing powders ; Sesquichloride of iron, 2 oz., powdered 
 cinnamon 1 oz.; mix and divide into four powders ; or car- 
 bonate of iron, pulverized gentian, and pulverized quassia, 
 of each 1 oz.; divide into four powders ; or nux vomica, 
 pulverized, ^ oz. ; linseed meal, 2 oz.; divide into 8 powders* 
 Another good preparation is muriate of barytes, ^ oz.; lin- 
 seed meal, 1 oz.; divide into eight powders. 
 
 Broken Wind or Heaves. — Divide half an ounce of 
 pulverized digitalis in 20 parts, and give one part night 
 and morning in the feed, until gone ; or take as.safcetida, 2 
 drs.,camphor, 1 dr., mix and give every other night for a week. 
 
 Inflammation or the Bowels. — Bleed from neck, give 
 10 drops tincture aconite every three hours, apply hot wet 
 blankets, inject tobacco-smoke or soap and water. No food 
 for forty-eight hours. 
 
 DiARRTKEA. — Give every six hours, until checked ; pow- 
 dered opium, one dr.; pov^>dered catechu, 2 drs.; prepared 
 chalk, 1 oz.; mix and divide into four powders. 
 
236 THE HORSF OWNER's 
 
 Colic, Spasmodic. — Give one ounce tincture opium 
 and one ounce sulphuric ether in half a pint of water ; re- 
 peat in half an hour, if relief is not obtained. Or give the 
 following ; tincture of opium, 1 oz ; aromatic spirits of 
 ammonia, ^ oz.; extract of belladonna, 1 dr.; water, 1 
 pint ; mix. In flatulent colic, give chlorate of potash, -| oz.; 
 sulphuric ether, ^ oz.; tincture 'of aloes, 3 oz.; water, 1 
 pint ; mix and drench.' 
 
 Worms. — Calomel, | dr.; tartrate of antimony, ^ dr.; 
 linseed meal, ^ oz.; mix and give at night ; or iron 
 filings, 2 drs.; common salt, ^ oz.; powdered savin, 1 dr.; 
 linseed meal, ^ oz.; mix ; give every night for a week ; or 
 assafoetida, 2 drs.; calomel, 1^ drs.; savin 1^ drs.; oil 
 male fern, 30 drops ; linseed meal, 2 drs.; mix with mo- 
 lasses and give at night ; or calomel, 1 dr.; powdered 
 wormwood, 1 oz,; honey sufficient to make the ball ; give 
 at night. Follow either of the above with the following 
 ball ; Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz.: pulverized gentian, 2 drs.; 
 pulverized ginger, 1 dr.; water sufficient to make the ball. 
 Another remedy. Barbadoes aloes, 6 drs.; male fern, 4 oz.; 
 spirits turpentine, 2 oz.; mix and divide into six balls ; 
 give one three times a day. 
 
 Retention of Urine. — Give a ball every night of pow- 
 dered opium, ^ oz.; powdered kino, 1 oz.; prepared chalk, 1 
 oz., mixed with molassss and made into six balls. 
 
 Stone in Bladder. — Muriatic acid, 2 drs., in a pail of 
 water once a day. 
 
 Quitter — Flax-seed meal poultice till soft, then cut 
 away. Inject once a day, chloride of zinc, 2 drs., dis- 
 solved in one pint of water; or sulphate of zinc, Ih drs., dis- 
 solved in one pint of water ; nitrate of silver, 2 drs., in a 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 237 
 
 pint of water ; or glycerine may be used with advantage. 
 Before using the wash, have the foot well cleaned with 
 castile soap and water. 
 
 Thrush. — Wash the feet well with soap and water, and 
 sprinkle a small quantity of pulverized sulphate of cop- 
 per in the cleft, and secure it by pressing a little raw cot- 
 ton. 
 
 Canker. — Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, add 
 sulphuric acid while melting; apply to foot; or use col- 
 lodion, ^ oz.; castor oil, 1 oz.; mix and apply to tho 
 parts. 
 
 Scratches. — Wash parts in soap and water, and apply 
 once a day ; Collodion, ^ oz,; castor oil, 1 oz.; or apply 
 once a week a saturated solution of bichloride of mercury. 
 
 Grease Heels. — Give a ball of Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz.; 
 pulverized gentian root, 2 drs.; pulverized ginger, 1 dr.; 
 water sufficient to make the ball. Wash the parts well, 
 and poultice for two or three days with the following : 
 Flaxseed meal mixed with a solution of 2 drs. sulphate zinc 
 to a pail of water % bathe frequently with glycerine, or a 
 solution of zinc, or a solution of chloride of lime. 
 
 Water Farcy. — Give one of the following powders, 
 night and morning, ii^ the feed: Sulphate of iron, 2 oz., 
 nitrate of potassa, 1 oz.; pulverized gentian, 1 oz.; pul- 
 verized ginger, 6 drs.; anise-seed, ground, ^ oz.; mix and 
 divide into eight powders ; or sulphate of copper, nitrate 
 of potassa, and pulverized gentian, of each 1 oz.; pulver- 
 ized ginger, ^ oz.; anise-seed, ground, 6 dsr.; mix and di- 
 vide into eight powders. Rub hard and exercise moder- 
 ately. 
 
238 THE HOESE OWNER's 
 
 Founder. — If the animal is in full condition, bleed free- 
 ly from the feet, and give the following : Barbadoes aloes, 
 6 drs.; croton oil, 6 drops ; pulverized ginger, 1 dr.; pul- 
 verized gentian, 2 drs.; mix with water in form of ball ; 
 foment the feet well with hot water, and then poultice with 
 flaxseed meal for several days ; give in the water every six 
 hours, extract of belladonna, 1 dr. 
 
 Shoulder Strain. — Bleed freely from the planter vein 
 running down upon the inside of the front legs. Foment 
 the shoulders well with hot water if the case is a recent 
 one. If of long standing, a seton will be more effective. 
 The following liniment will be a useful application : Sweet 
 oil 1 pint; spirits of hartshorn, 3 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 
 2 oz.; mix all together ; shake well before using ; or al- 
 cohol, 1 pint ; spirits of camphor, tincture of myrrh, castile 
 soap, of each 1 oz.; mix all together ; or oil of turpentine, 
 1 oz.; tincture of opium 1 oz.; soap liniment, 1 oz.; tincture 
 of capsicum, 1 dr.; mix all together. 
 
 Capped Hock. — Blister; tincture of iodine, or iodine 
 ointment, is useful. 
 
 Bone Spavin. — When there is external enlargement, ac- 
 tive blisters should be applied over the part. Liquid blis- 
 ter : Powdered croton seeds, ^ oz.; powdered cantharides, 1 
 oz.; oil of turpentine, 1 pint; olive oil, 1 pint; mix all to- 
 gether, and shake well before using. 
 
 Curb. — In recent cases the part should be bathed with 
 tincture of iodine once a day ; or use iodine ointment. 
 Take a little blood from the sephena vein on the inside of 
 the hind leg, above the hock. Should this not succeed, 
 blisters must be resorted to. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 239 
 
 Blood or Bog Spavin. — Use cold water compresses, 
 placed upon the joint for six or eight weeks, by means of 
 a leathern socket made to fit it. Old woolen or muslin 
 cloth is best. 
 
 Palpitation of the Heart. — The worst cases yield 
 in two hours to the following simple treatment : Divide 1 
 dr. of digitalis into five powders, and give one every fifteen 
 minutes, on the tongue. 
 
 Inflammation of the Brain. — Open the jugular 
 vein as quickly as possible. It should be done before the 
 mad stage comes on, or it is too late to be of much service. 
 Open the bowels freely; give the following: Barbadoes 
 aloes, 1 oz.; croton oil, 10 drops ; ginger, I dr.; gentian, 
 1 dr.; mix with molasses or honey. Give tobaoco-smoke 
 injections if convenient, or soap and water will answer the 
 purpose ; give, on the tongue, every two hours, 10 drops 
 tincture of aconite, until eight doses have been given, and 
 then stop the aconite ; give cold water to drink and ap- 
 ply cold water bandages to the head, or bags of ice would 
 be better ; give no food for twelve hours after relief is ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Stomach Staggers.— Giv^e the purging ball recommend- 
 ed in inflammation of the brain, and bleed freely from the 
 jugular vein; give no food for forty-eight hours; this is all 
 the treatment the animal requires. 
 
 Poll-Evil. — Give the following powder : Pulverized 
 sulphur, 1 lb.; black antimony, in powder, -|- lb.; mix to- 
 gether; dose, one table-spoonful morning and night in 
 the feed. No corn nor corn meal should be given. Open 
 the bowels with aloes or linseed oil. Lay the tumor open 
 
24Q THE HOESE OWNER^S 
 
 with a knife, and inject into the opening a solution of 
 sulphate of dnc, 2 drs., to 1 pint of water, or the tinct- 
 ure of iodine is very good ; sulphuric acid is used in some 
 cases but it is a dangerous remedy. 
 
 Glanders. — Sulphate of soda, in 1 oz. doses, three times 
 a day, has been attended with partial success; but pow- 
 der and ball, applied through the medium of a rifle, is 
 the only sure cure we know of. 
 
 Farcy. — Give one ounce of sulphate of soda three 
 times a day, or corrosive sublimate, in ten-grain doses, 
 twice a day ; or nnx vomica, in ^ dr. doses, twice a day. 
 Sulphate of copper, in 2 dr. doses, has been used with de- 
 cided advantage. The tumors should be opened, aud 
 caustic silver or red-hot iron applied to each. 
 
 Mange. — Take the horse in the sun and scrub him 
 thoroughly all over \^th castile soap and water, then 
 wash him well from head to tail with gas water, in which 
 put 2 drs. white hellebore to the gallon. Put him in a 
 different stable and use clean harness. 
 
 Surfeit. — Give the following: Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz.; 
 nitrate of potassa, 2 drs.; gentian, 1 dr.; make into a 
 ball with water; follow this with the following powder: 
 nitrate of potash, 2 oz.; pulverized sulphur, 6 oz.; black 
 antimony, 2 oz.; mix and divide into sixteen powders; 
 give one morning and night. 
 
 Hide-Bound. — Take sulphur, pulverized, 8 oz.; ni- 
 trate potassa, pulverized, 3 oz^ black antimony, pulver. 
 ized, 2 oz.; sulphate of iron, 4 oz.; mix together ; give 1 
 tablespoonful twice a day. Or, Barbadoes aloes, 2 oz.; 
 nitre, 1 oz.; gentian, 1 oz.; mix and divide into sixteen 
 powders to be given night and morning. 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 241 
 
 Rheumatism. — Open the bowels witli the following; 
 Calomel, 1 dr.; Barbadoes aloes, 4 drs.; alcohol, 2 drs ; 
 linseed meal, 2 drs,; molasses enough to make into a ball ; 
 follow this with pine tar, -| oz., made into a ball with flax- 
 seed meal; give one every morning. Poultice the feet 
 with flaxseed meal, 4 parts, ground mustard, 1 part, for 
 several days ; and bathe the affected limbs with the fol- 
 lowing liniment : Oil of turpentine, tincture of opium 
 soap liniment, of each 1 oz.; tincture of capsicum, 1 dr.; 
 mix all too^ether : shake well before using. 
 
 Cramps. — Hand-rubbing is very necessary, and use the 
 following liniment upon the affected part ; alcohol, 1 
 pint; tincture of camphor, ^ pint; tincture of opium, 4 
 oz.; mix all together. 
 
 Saddle-Galls. — Bathe the parts two or three times a 
 day with tincture of myrrh and tincture of aloes, equal 
 parts ; or collodion, 1 oz.; castor oil, 2 oz , mixed ; or 
 glycerine. 
 
 Amaurosis, — Give a strong purge ; follow this twice a 
 day with | dr. doses of nux vomica mixed in the feed : 
 apply a fly- blister back of the eye. Give no corn until 
 isight is restored. 
 
 The Hooks. — Open the bowels with the aloes ball rec- 
 ommended in rheumatism, and apply the following wash. 
 Tincture of opium, one ounce, rain water, one pint ; mix 
 together, and bathe the eye three or four times a day. Do 
 not be persuaded to cut out this membrane of the eye as 
 its removal does injury by impairing its function. 
 
 Simple Ophthalmia. — Open the vein under the eye 
 and let it bleed uutil it stops of itself. Open the bowels 
 
242 THE HORSE OWNER's 
 
 and use the following wasli ; Tincture of opium, six 
 drachms, tinctm-e of aconite, two drachms, rain water, one 
 pint ; mix all together and bathe the eye three times a 
 day ; or use belladonna one ounce, rain water, one pint ; 
 mix and bathe the same. 
 
 Specific Ophthalmia. — Give in the feed, night and 
 morning, cplchicum root, pulverized, one ounce, linseed 
 meal, two ounces; mix and divide into twenty powders. 
 Bathe the eye with the following ; Belladonna, one ounce, 
 rain water, one pint; or, nitrate of silver, eight grains, dis- 
 tilled water, four ounces, mix; or, sulphate of zinc one-half 
 drachm, diaceate of lead, one drachm, water, one and one- 
 half pint ; or, take a piece of sulphate of copper (blue 
 stone), shave it thin and smooth, and pass it carefully 
 between the eyelid and the eyeball twice a day until the eye 
 is cleared up. 
 
 For Fermenting Swollen or Stocked Legs. — 
 Procure one pound of smartweed, place the same in an eight 
 gallon kettle — add four gallons of soft water, place over a 
 slow fire and boil down to two gallons, strain the solution 
 into another iron or tin vessel ; get one pound of alum, place 
 in a mortar and pulverize fine ; sift the alum into the liquid, 
 again place over the fire and stir until well dissolved. Now 
 wind the limb tight with a hay rope, pour one pint of the 
 solution in at the top of the bandage when blood warm ; 
 repeat every hour for forty-eight hours. This is the best 
 fomentation used ; it will remove all inflammation and 
 swelling'' in two days. If there is a cut or wound, after fo- 
 menting, apply blue ointment No. 3 until healed. In case 
 of strain or bruise apply a general liniment. 
 
 Blue Ointment. — Take half an ounce of verdigris, one 
 
ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 243 
 
 ounce of blue vitrei, four ounces of ointment of rosin, one 
 ounce spirits of turpentine, grind all fine, mix well with 
 one pound lard, and it is fit for use. Common rosin will do 
 if the ointment is not convenient. 
 
 Spavin and Ringworm Ointment. — Take two ounces 
 cantharides, one ounce gum opborboum, two ounces tur- 
 pentine, one ounce tincture iodine, and three drachms cor- 
 rosive sublimate. Grind all fine, and mix with two pounds 
 of lard. 
 
 To STOP Blood. — If you can get hold of the artery or 
 vein, tie it up ; if not, take the following : ten grains of 
 nitrate of silver and four ounces of water ; apply it to the 
 wound, and it will stop immediately. Apply this to warts 
 after cutting them out. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGB. 
 
 History of the horses trained by C. H. Williams 5 
 
 The first step to be taken with the wild colt 8 
 
 Bitting the colt 21 
 
 The bitting bridle 21 
 
 Hitching in stall the first time 22 
 
 Handling the colt's feet 24 
 
 To ride the colt , 26 
 
 Harnessing the colt 29 
 
 Hitching the colt to wagon 30 
 
 Hitching the colt in single harness 33 
 
 Teaching him to back 35 
 
 Subduing the colt 35 
 
 Dimension of surcingle 37 
 
 Castrating 38 
 
 How to drive a kicking horse 39 
 
 To drive a kicker in double harness 41 
 
 Balky horses 43 
 
 Hard pullers 45 
 
 Tongue over the bit .- 47 
 
 Run-away, bolting or plunging horses 48 
 
 Driving on one rein 50 
 
 Break any halter puller 51 
 
 Halter puller No. 2 52 
 
 Getting cast in the stall 53 
 
 Pawing in the stall 55 
 
 Kicking in the stall 55 
 
 Vicious biters 56 
 
 Horses that are vicious to shoe 56 
 
 Breechy horses 57 
 
246 TABLE OP CONTENTS. 
 
 How to catch a horse in pasture 59 
 
 Teaching triclis 63 
 
 How to tell a horse's age 68 
 
 Jockey tricks 68 
 
 Treatise on shoeing 70 
 
 Riding and Driving 91 
 
 The accoutrements and aids 91 
 
 Mounting and dismounting 91 
 
 Management of the seat and reins 95 
 
 The ordinary pacer 99 
 
 Female horsemanship 117 
 
 Driving 122 
 
 By-Laws of the National Association 127 
 
 Rules and regulations of the National Association 133 
 
 Betting rules 154 
 
 General hints 158 
 
 Turf calendar 160 
 
 Stable management 163 
 
 Air 163 
 
 Litter 167 
 
 Light 168 
 
 Grooming 169 
 
 Exercise 172 
 
 Closing remarks 174 
 
 Training steers, as taught by A. H. Rockwell 177 
 
 Kicking cows 179 
 
 Training dogs 180 
 
 Training the Shepherd to drive 181 
 
 The watch dog 185 
 
 The trick dog ^ 186 
 
 The first steps to be taken with the dog 187 
 
 Diseases of the dog 192 
 
 Distemper 194 
 
 Bilious fever „ 195 
 
 Staggers and fits 195 
 
 Bleeding 196 
 
 Canker in the ear 196 
 
 External canker in the ear 1 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 247 
 
 For strains 196 
 
 Bruises or strains 196 
 
 Poisoned 197 
 
 Fleas 197 
 
 Torn ears 197 
 
 Films over the eyes 197 
 
 Films caused by thorns 197 
 
 AVounds 198 
 
 Green wounds 198 
 
 Bite of snake .- 198 
 
 Diseases of the horse 198 
 
 Inflammation 198 
 
 Diseases of the mouth, lampass 201 
 
 Bags or washers 202 
 
 Sore mouth 202 
 
 Uneven teeth 202 
 
 Wolf teeth 202 
 
 Caries of the teeth 203 
 
 Distemper 203 
 
 Sore throat 204 
 
 Strangles 204 
 
 Influenza 205 
 
 Bronchitis ^ < 206 
 
 Nasal gleet 207 
 
 Pneumonia 208 
 
 Pleurisy 209 
 
 Dropsy of the chest 209 
 
 Broken wind or heaves 209 
 
 Inflammation of the bowels 210 
 
 Diarrhoea 210 
 
 Colic 211 
 
 Worms , 211 
 
 Retention of urine 213 
 
 Profuse staling 213 
 
 Stones in the bladder 213 
 
 Quitter 214 
 
 Thrush 214 
 
 Canker 214 
 
248 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Scratches 215 
 
 Grease heels 215 
 
 Water farcy 216 
 
 Founder 216 
 
 Pomiced feet 217 
 
 Navicular-joint [lameness 217 
 
 Ossification of the lateral cartilages 218 
 
 Shoulder strain 219 
 
 Capped hock '. 219 
 
 Bone spavin 219 
 
 Ringbone 221 
 
 Splint 221 
 
 Curb 222 
 
 Blood or bog spavin : 222 
 
 Palpitation of the heart 222 
 
 Inflammation of the brain 223 
 
 Stomach staggers 223 
 
 Poll-evil ; 224 
 
 Fistula of the withers 225 
 
 Glanders 225 
 
 Farcy 226 
 
 Mange 227 
 
 Surfeit 227 
 
 Hide-bound 228 
 
 Locked-jaw 228 
 
 Rheumatism 229 
 
 Cramp 230 
 
 W-arts 230 
 
 Saddle galls 231 
 
 Diseases of the eye, amaurosis, or gutta serena 231 
 
 Inflammation of the haw 232 
 
 Simple opthalmia ; 232 
 
 Specific opthalmia 232 
 
 Cataract 233 
 
 Recapitulation of remedies 234 
 
^iliiMar FMRy Ubraiy of Veteflnary Medk^ 
 
 Q^smmgi^ Sidhool of Veterinary Medicine at 
 
 Tu^s University 
 
 200 Westboro Road 
 
 North Grafton, MA 01536